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,transcriber's ,note3 ,there are        
inconsistencies in spelling and         
hyphenation  which have been left as    
they were originally printed4           
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,,how ,,to ,,enjoy ,,paris ,,in #ahdb1  
,,intended ,,to ,,serve ,,as ,a         
,,companion ,,and ,,monitor             
,indicating all that is useful and      
interesting ,,in ,,the ,,french         
,,metropolis1    ,containing            
,,historical1 ,,political1 ,,commercial1
 ,,artistical1 ,,theatrical ,,and       
,,statistical ,,information4    ,,as    
,,also ,a ,,description ,of the manners 
and customs of the ,parisians of the    
present day2 ,,with ,,instructions ,,for
 ,,the ,,stranger4 ,in ,respect to      
,economy1   and ,advice to his general  
proceedings with the ,french4     ,by   
,f4 ,herve    ,author of ,a ,residence  
in ,turkey and ,greece1 etc1 etc4       

,,illustrated ,,by ,,lithographic       
,,engravings4    ,,paris1 ,,published   
,,by ,,amyot1 #f1 ,,rue ,,de ,,la       
,,paix2 ,,and ,,by ,g4 ,,briggs1 #dba1  
,,strand1 ,,london1 ,,successor ,,to    
,,leigh  ,,co4   #ahdb4     ,,preface4  
,in offering the following pages to the 
public1 the author has been principally 
influenced by a desire of uniting useful
 information with that which he hopes   
may prove amusing to the reader1        
endeavouring as much as possible to keep
 in view the spirit of the title ,how to
 enjoy ,paris2 and having been          
accustomed to hear such constant and    
bitter murmurings from the ,english1 in 
consequence of their having been so     
frequently imposed upon by the ,paris   
shopkeepers1 considerable pains and     
attention have been devoted to guard the
 reader against his being subjected to a
 similar evil2 much development has     
therefore been afforded towards         
recommending those establishments where 
the author feels confident that the     

stranger will meet with fair dealing and
 due civility4 ,it may1 perhaps1 be     
thought by many that he has been rather 
too prolix on the subject1 but in order 
to know ,how to enjoy ,paris to its full
 extent1 the first object1 is to be     
informed of the best means of dispensing
 one's modicum of lucre to the greatest 
advantage1 which will enable the visitor
 to stay the longer and see the more1   
just in proportion as he avoids useless 
expenditure in suffering himself to be  
victimised by over charges4  ,as the    
present work includes the different     
subjects of ,history1 ,antiquities1     
,politics1 ,manners1 ,customs1 ,army1   
,navy1 ,literature1 ,painting1 ,music1  
,theatres1 ,performers1 etc41 etc41 the 
author flatters himself that readers of 
every taste will find a chapter which   
treats upon some subject that may       
interest them1 hoping that in the       
endeavour to play the role of the       
,miller and his ,ass1 his efforts to    
please may be more happy than those of  

that unfortunate individual4            
,,chapter ,i4       ,hints to the       
,english visiting ,paris as to their    
demeanour towards      the ,parisians1  
and advice as to the best mode of       
proceeding in      various transactions 
with them4 ,an appeal to candour and    
justice      against national prejudice4
   ,happiness is the goal for which     
mankind is ever seeking1 but of the many
 roads which the imagination traces as  
the surest and nearest to that          
desideratum1 few1 perhaps none1 ever    
chance upon the right2 too many pursue a
 shadow instead of a substance1         
influenced by a phantom of their own    
creation1 engendered in most instances  
by pride1 vanity1 or ambition4 ,although
 ,i do not presume to hope that ,i can  
pilot my readers to the wished-for      
haven1 yet ,i flatter myself ,i can     
afford them such counsel as will greatly
 contribute towards their happiness     
during their sojourn at ,paris or in    
other parts of ,france4  ,patriotism is 

certainly a most exalted virtue1 but    
however praiseworthy it may be in       
,englishmen to cherish within their own 
breasts the recollection that their     
fleets and armies have ever prevailed1  
that their wealth and commerce surpass  
those of every other nation1 etc4 etc4  
it is not absolutely necessary that they
 should in their outward demeanour      
towards foreigners1 bear the semblance  
of constantly arrogating to themselves a
 superiority1 of which however conscious
 and assured they may be1 they never can
 teach others to feel1 and least of any 
a ,frenchman1 who possesses an equal    
degree of national predilection as the  
,englishman1 and the moment that        
sentiment is attacked1 or that our      
,gallic neighbours conceive that an     
attempt is made to insinuate that they  
are regarded in the light of            
inferiority1 as compared with any other 
nation1 hatred to the individual who    
seeks to humiliate them or their country
 is instantly engendered1 and in all    

their transactions and communications   
with their soi-disant superior1 they    
will either take some advantage1 behave 
with sullenness1 or avail themselves of 
some opportunity of displaying the      
ascerbid feeling which has been created3
 not that ,i would wish an ,englishman  
to subdue that just and natural pride   
which he must ever feel when he reflects
 on the pinnacle of greatness which his 
country has attained1 through the       
genius1 industry1 and valour of her     
sons2 yet it is a suaviter in modo which
 ,i wish him to preserve in his outward 
bearing towards the ,french1 without    
ever compromising the fortiter in re4   
,i shall now endeavour to illustrate the
 above theory by citing some instances  
wherein its axioms were brought into    
practice under my own observation1 and  
which ,i trust will convince my readers 
that it is not from visionary ideas ,i  
have formed my conclusions1 and that the
 conduct ,i recommend to the traveller  
in ,france must in a great degree tend  

to the promotion of his happiness1      
whilst traversing or residing in foreign
 climes2 as although in other countries 
the same degree of sensitiveness will   
not be found as that which exists       
amongst the ,french1 a mild and         
unassuming deportment is always         
appreciated on the ,continent1 where    
tradespeople and even servants are not  
accustomed to be treated in that haughty
 dictatorial manner1 too often adopted  
by my countrymen towards those to whom  
they are in the habit of giving their   
orders4  ,it is now about twelve years  
since1 whilst ,i was staying at the     
,hotel de ,bourbon1 at ,calais1 that ,i 
was much struck by the very opposite    
traits of countenance and difference of 
demeanour of two gentlemen at the table 
d'hote1 who appeared nevertheless to be 
most intimate friends2 it was evident   
they were both ,english and proved to be
 brothers4 ,ever accustomed to study the
 physiognomies of those around me1 ,i   
contemplated theirs with peculiar       

attention1 having discovered by their   
conversation that they were to be my    
companions on my journey to ,paris2 and 
it required no great powers of          
penetration to perceive that the elder  
was decided upon viewing all with a     
jaundiced eye1 whilst the younger was   
disposed to be pleased and in good      
humour1 with all around him4 ,the       
conducteur announcing that the          
,diligence was ready and that we must   
speedily take our seats1 abruptly       
interrupted all my physiognomical       
meditations1 and we quickly repaired to 
the heavy lumbering vehicle in which we 
were destined to be dragged to the gay  
metropolis4 ,our names being called over
 in rotation1 ,i found that the brothers
 had engaged places in the coupe as well
 as myself1 but having priority of      
claim1 had wisely chosen the two        
corners1 the vacant seat in the middle  
falling to my lot2 and ,i believe1 as it
 proved1 it was not a bad arrangement1  
as ,i acted as a sort of sand-bag       

between two jars1 which prevented their 
jarring2 in fact ,i formed a sort of    
juste milieu between two extremes1 and  
no sooner were we installed in our      
respective places1 than my mediating    
powers were called into operation1 as   
the following dialogue will exemplify4  
,they gave us a very nice dinner1 sir1  
said the good humoured brother who sat  
on my left4  ,i replied that ,i was very
 well satisfied with it4  ,but you don't
 know what their messes are made of4    
,for my part ,i like to know what1 ,i   
eat1 observed the discontented brother  
on my right1 and you don't mean surely1 
sir1 to say that such as they gave us   
was anything to compare to a good       
,english dinner4  ,that1 ,i remarked1   
was entirely an affair of taste2 that ,i
 myself was most partial to the simpler 
mode of living of the ,english1 but not 
so the high aristocracy of our country1 
with whom ,french cooks are in the      
greatest estimation4  ,i was very much  
pleased with the vin ordinaire1 as they 

call it1 and found it a pleasant light  
wine1 particularly agreeable when one is
 thirsty1 said ,good ,humour4  ,light   
enough at any rate1 returned            
,discontent1 and well named vin         
ordinaire1 for ordinary it is in every  
sense of the word1 pretty much like     
themselves for that2 but if you like to 
have any when we are in ,england1 ,i'll 
make you some2 take a little port wine1 
put some vinegar and a good deal of     
water with it and there you have it at  
once2 is not that your opinion1 sir8  ,i
 replied1 that ,i considered it a       
beverage well adapted for a sort of     
draught wine1 but that it certainly had 
not the body that foreign wines have    
that we are in the habit of drinking in 
,england4  ,good ,humour not appearing  
to relish his brother's receipt for     
making vin ordinaire1 changed the       
subject1 by observing that a woman who  
was standing at the door of an auberge  
where we were stopping had a very fine  
expression of countenance1 although     

rather thin and pale1 but that there was
 a pensive cast which prevailed         
throughout her features and rendered the
 tout ensemble interesting4  ,oh very   
fine1 indeed1 said ,discontent1 with a  
sarcastic smile1 as complete a picture  
of skin and grief as one could wish to  
see4 ,pray1 sir1 is she one of your     
beauties8  ,i admitted that her         
appearance was rather pleasing1 but that
 beauty was out of the question1 nor did
 ,i understand his brother to have made 
any remark conveying the idea that she  
possessed that charm so truly rare4     
,what a delightful house and garden1    
exclaimed4 ,good ,humour1 as we passed  
by a residence1 that had rather an      
inviting appearance2 now1 is it not an  
agreeable spot to live in1 he continued1
 as he turned to me with a look1 so     
assured of confirmation on my part1 that
 ,i could not find it in my heart to    
disappoint him4 ,but as ,i was about to 
answer1 ,discontent grumbled out a few  
words1 which ,i think were to the       

effect1 that where the country was so   
hideously frightful1 that any thing that
 was decent attracted notice1 but that  
the same object in ,england would not   
have been regarded2 asking me if ,i had 
ever travelled through a more ugly      
country in my life4  ,however ,i felt   
inclined to check his tendency to       
condemn all he beheld1 yet ,i could not 
in truth otherwise than acknowledge that
 it was as uninteresting as it was      
possible to be1 of which every one must 
be aware who has travelled from ,calais 
to ,boulogne4  ,good ,humour1 however1  
was still undaunted1 and a rather jolly1
 and very rosy1 looking young female    
passing at the moment1 elicited from him
 the exclamation of ,oh1 what a pretty  
girl1 and good natured6  ,the very type 
of fat contented ignorance1 interrupted 
,discontent1 without allowing his       
brother to finish his sentence4  ,soon  
after we entered ,boulogne1 where the   
white houses1 lively green shutters1 and
 cleanly appearance of the ,grande ,rue 

attracted the admiration of ,good       
,humour1 who observed with his usual    
energetic manner1 ,what a cheerful      
pleasant looking town1 and how very     
pretty the houses are6  ,for outside    
show1 well enough1 which may be said of 
most things in ,france1 murmured        
,discontent2 but see the inside of those
 houses1 and you will find there is not 
a single window or door that shuts or   
fits as it ought2 and if they are       
inhabited by ,french people1 you will   
find cobwebs and dirt in almost every   
corner4 ,am ,i not right1 sir1 said he1 
turning to me with a triumphant air4    
,but before ,i could answer1 ,good      
,humour took up the cause1 observing1   
,really1 brother1 you cannot speak from 
what you have seen1 as the ,hotel       
,bourbon is the only house we have yet  
entered1 and it was impossible to exceed
 the cleanliness observed within it2    
therefore your remarks can only proceed 
from reports you have had from others1  
whose vision1 perhaps1 was as clouded as

 your own appears to be1 by a           
pre-determination to view everything in 
,france in the most unfavourable light4 
,perceiving that ,discontent1 by the    
angry look which he assumed1 was about  
to reply in a bitter tone to his        
brother1 ,i thought the best means of   
averting the storm would be to interpose
 a sort of middle course between them1  
and remarked that the gentleman's       
observation1 as to the windows and doors
 not fitting well1 was very correct1 but
 with regard to the dirtiness of the    
,french it had been greatly exaggerated4
  ,discontent declared that he had      
received his account of ,france from    
persons who had lived long in the       
country1 and on whose judgment he could 
rely2 whereas1 added he1 you perhaps    
have seen but little either of the      
nation or of the people4  ,i replied    
that ,i had known ,france nearly        
fourteen years4  ,then1 said he1 if you 
have known ,france so long as that1 ,i  
suppose you have become ,frenchified    

yourself4  ,i was about to make a sharp 
reply1 but was prevented by the younger 
brother remarking1 ,after you have said 
so much against the ,french1 your       
observation to the gentleman was        
anything but complimentary1 and savoured
 much of rudeness4  ,i merely said ,i   
was sure that his brother did not mean  
to be rude1 and therefore ,i should not 
consider his observation in that light4 
,rough and rude ,i always was1 but ,i   
did not mean to give offence1 added     
,discontent in a somewhat softened tone4
  ,a fine looking old man1 with a       
profusion of white hair1 who was        
standing at a cottage door1 attracted   
the notice of ,good ,humour1 who bid us 
observe how benevolent was his          
expression1 and what a fine venerable   
head he presented4  ,as hoary headed an 
old sinner as ever existed1 ,i'll be    
bound1 said ,discontent1 with a         
sarcastic smile1 as he looked scornfully
 at his brother4  ,in this manner we    
continued to the end of our journey1    

,discontent viewing all he encountered  
with an air of disgust and contempt1    
appearing restless1 miserable1 unhappy  
and disagreeable1 a burthen to himself  
and an annoyance to others1 whilst ,good
 ,humour saw every thing en couleur de  
rose1 was lively1 amused1 looking the   
picture of kindness1 and although       
pleased with a trifle1 'tis true1 yet   
how much wiser was his course1 as it    
promoted his own happiness and was      
calculated to cheer his fellow          
travellers4  ,at length we arrived at   
,abbeville1 and ,i soon perceived the   
effect that the knitted brow and curling
 lip of ,discontent had upon the girls  
that waited at the table1 who seemed but
 half disposed to attend1 to his        
demands2 whereas the good natured       
confiding expression of his brother1    
with his pleasing address1 won all      
hearts1 and he was served with alacrity 
and scarcely needed to express his      
wants2 it really is astonishing how much
 influence suavity of manners has in    

,france1 in procuring civility and      
attention1 and how opposite is the case 
with a repulsive mien4  ,before ,i quit 
the subject1 ,i must relate one more    
instance1 most powerfully attesting the 
veracity of the assertion1 which        
occurred to myself2 after having engaged
 apartments at the house belonging to a 
female1 named ,fournier1 at ,boulogne1  
,i was informed by several ,english     
families who had preceded me in the same
 lodgings1 that ,i had taken up my abode
 with the most disagreeable people1 who 
would impose upon us and annoy us in    
every possible manner4 ,one exception1  
however1 to this general report ,i met  
with in the account that was given me of
 our hostess and family by a ,colonel   
,barry1 who with his lady and children  
had resided some time with ,madame      
,fournier1 and they assured me that we  
should find we had chanced upon most    
worthy people1 who would do all in their
 power to make us comfortable2 but it so
 happened that the ,colonel and his     

family were persons of most conciliating
 manners1 devoid of hauteur in their    
demeanour1 possessing in fact the very  
qualities calculated to propitiate a    
good feeling on the part of the ,french4
 ,after we had been in the house some   
time1 we observed to those persons who  
assured us we should be so ill treated1 
that we found the case quite the        
reverse2 and1 the answer was1 wait until
 the time comes when1 you are about to  
depart1 and then when you are called    
upon to produce the plates1 crockery1   
glasses1 knives1 forks1 etc41 you will  
see who you have to deal with2 if there 
be any thing in the slightest degree    
chipped1 they will make you pay         
extravagantly for damages4 ,but when at 
last the awful day of departure arrived1
 ,i had every thing collected of the    
description alluded to1 and ,madame     
,fournier would not even look at them1  
and observed if there were any thing    
injured she was sure it was to so       
trifling an amount that it was not worth

 noticing4 ,but it was not so with an   
,english lady who was our fellow lodger2
 towards her they certainly were neither
 obliging in their manner nor disposed  
to render her any kind of accommodation 
beyond the strict letter of their       
agreement2 and the reason was1 because  
she always addressed them as if she was 
speaking to her servants2 in short1 with
 an arrogance of manner that they could 
not brook4 ,thus whilst they were       
continually practising little civilities
 and attentions towards us1 which       
greatly contributed to our comfort1 they
 were following a totally opposite      
system towards her1 which rendered her  
very uncomfortable2 therefore1 had that 
lady properly studied her happiness1 she
 would have conducted herself towards   
her hostess and family in a very        
different manner1 and ,i hope my readers
 who visit ,france will take advantage  
of the hint2 yet ,i must admit that the 
lady in question was a very amiable     
personage in every other respect1 but   

she detested the ,french1 and liked1 as 
she observed1 to pull down their pride1 
to make them feel their inferiority1 and
 let them know that the ,english were   
their masters4 ,madame ,fournier1       
however1 was of a class superior to the 
generality of persons who let lodgings  
in ,england2 she was possessed of an    
independent property1 her eldest        
daughter was married to a ,colonel1 and 
her son a lieutenant in the navy1 but   
like many of the ,french1 having a house
 considerably larger than she could     
occupy1 she let a part of it4 ,i should 
always however recommend the ,english   
when they are taking a house or         
apartment for any length of time1 or in 
fact entering into any engagement of    
importance with the ,french1 to have an 
agreement in writing1 in case of        
misunderstanding1 which may arise from  
the ,english not comprehending1 or not  
expressing themselves in ,french so well
 as they imagine4 ,it is always a       
document to refer to which settles all  

differences1 and is a check upon all bad
 memories1 either on the one side or the
 other2 and as there are bad people in  
,france as well as other countries1 it  
prevents strangers becoming victims to  
those who are disposed to take          
advantage1 when they are aware that     
there is no legal instrument to hold    
them to their contract4 ,i have lodged  
in eighteen different houses in ,france1
 and never had any other than a verbal  
agreement1 and certainly had not in any 
one instance cause to regret2 but was   
fortunate enough1 with one exception1   
always to have met with good people2 but
 as ,i wish my readers during their     
sojourn in ,france to be secured from   
any unpleasant discussions or           
altercations1 ,i recommend them to be on
 the safe side4  ,i must now appeal to  
my two most powerful allies1 candour and
 justice1 against that invincible demon 
national prejudice4 ,i am perfectly     
aware that it is a hopeless attempt even
 to imagine that there is the slightest 

chance of ameliorating its force4 ,i    
consider it more immoveable than a rock1
 because by dint of time you may cut    
that away1 or you may blast it with     
gunpowder2 but ,i know of no means which
 can soften the adamantine strength of  
national prejudice4 ,one might naturally
 suppose that a long communication      
between the two countries1 a mutual     
interchange of kindnesses1 the number of
 intermarriages by which the two nations
 have become so connected with each     
other1 would have contributed in some   
degree to diminish the asperity of that 
bitter feeling against the ,french which
 we acquire in our school-boy days1 but 
which reason and commerce with the      
world1 it might be expected1 would      
correct4 ,as there is no argument so    
powerful as exemplification1 ,i will    
here cite two instances amongst the     
hundreds that have come within my       
knowledge1 of the extreme               
incorrigibility of the baneful sentiment
 to which ,i allude4 ,i once travelled  

with a ,mr4 ,lewis from ,paris to       
,dieppe1 and found him a man of         
considerable information1 very          
gentlemanly in his address and manners1 
and possessing such colloquial powers as
 contributed to render the journey      
particularly agreeable2 he was an       
enthusiastic admirer of the arts1 and   
was very fond of drawing1 and certainly 
excelled in that accomplishment1 from   
the very beautiful sketches he showed me
 which he had made in different parts of
 ,france1 and in fact was an amateur    
artist of considerable merit4 ,he gave  
me a very interesting account of his    
tour through ,france and of the kindness
 he had met with from the inhabitants2  
that in many instances when he had been 
sketching the chateaux of the nobility  
and gentry1 how often it had occurred   
that the proprietors had come out and   
invited him to breakfast or dinner1     
according to the hour1 or at any rate to
 take some refreshment2 and several sent
 for his portemanteau from the inn where

 he had put up 7sometimes without his   
knowledge71 compelling him to pass the  
night at their chateau4 ,on my making   
some remark as to the urbanity of the   
,french1 ,oh6 don't think1 he exclaimed1
 that ,i am praising them as a nation1  
for ,i hate them2 ,i only speak of facts
 as they happened4 ,i then asked him how
 he was treated at the inns in the      
different provinces1 and whether he was 
much imposed upon4 ,i cannot say ,i was1
 he replied1 or in any instance that ,i 
had reason to complain of my treatment4 
,from this gentleman's account of the   
reception he had met with in ,france1   
would not any rational being have       
imagined that he would speak well of the
 ,french8 instead of which1 ,i soon had 
the most powerful proofs to the         
contrary4 ,when we arrived at ,dieppe we
 found a party assembled at the table   
d'hote1 at the hotel at which we        
alighted1 consisting of a few ,french   
but1 more of ,english2 the former left  
the room as soon as the cloth was       

withdrawn1 and the latter remaining1 the
 conversation became general and very   
patriotic2 and as the merits of ,england
 and the ,english rose in the           
discussion1 so did the demerits of      
,france and the ,french sink1 and at    
last bumpers were drank to old ,england 
for ever1 in which we all joyously      
joined4 ,this was all very natural and  
proper1 but this ebullition of national 
and praiseworthy feeling had hardly     
subsided1 when ,mr4 ,lewis1 the very man
 who had admitted that he had been      
received with kindness and hospitality  
wherever he had been in ,france1 arose1 
and said1 ,now1 gentlemen1 ,i have      
another toast to propose to you1 which  
,i hope will be drank with the same     
enthusiasm as the last2 so ,here's a    
curse for ,france and the ,french4 ,all 
immediately drank it but myself and an  
elderly gentleman1 who declared he would
 not invoke a curse upon any land or any
 people4 ,a silent pause intervened2    
every one appeared to look at the other1

 as to how they ought to act on their   
toast being refused1 none caring to     
assume the initiative4 ,at last1 one    
rising from his chair1 who perhaps began
 to view the affair temperately1        
observed1 ,well1 ,i think we had better 
see about the packet-boat for ,brighton 
before it is too late1 and they all     
quitted the room1 except the elderly    
gentlemen and myself1 and he did        
certainly animadvert most severely      
against what he termed their            
unchristianlike toast4 ,although it was 
impossible for me1 feeling as ,i did1   
otherwise than to agree with him on the 
principal points of his argument1 yet ,i
 observed that we might hope that it was
 merely in words that the gentlemen     
would evince the violence of their      
prejudices1 as ,i felt convinced1 from  
the general amiability of character so  
apparent in the person who proposed the 
toast1 that if he saw a ,frenchman in   
danger of his life1 and that an exertion
 could save him1 that ,mr4 ,lewis would 

use every effort to preserve a human    
being from destruction1 whatever might  
be his country4  ,the other circumstance
 to which ,i am about to advert was less
 his surprising1 though equally         
powerful1 in illustrating the strong    
tendency towards prejudice against the  
,french on the part of the ,english     
people1 the hero of my tale being a     
regular country squire1 extremely kind  
hearted1 but whose fund of information  
did not extend much beyond his estate1  
his horses and his hounds2 not any      
consideration would have induced him to 
quit ,england1 but that of saving the   
life of an individual1 for whom1 however
 worthless and ungrateful1 he still     
retained a sentiment of pity2 a young   
man1 whom he had brought up and         
educated1 in return for his kindness    
forged his name1 and the evidence of the
 squire was all that was requisite to   
hang him1 therefore1 as an effectual    
means of avoiding to be forced to appear
 against him1 he quitted ,england2 and1 

as ,france was the nearest1 he there    
took up his abode4 ,a friend of mine1 a 
,capt4 ,w41 who had resided long in     
,france1 received a letter of           
introduction to the squire2 although    
living at a considerable distance from  
his residence1 he took an opportunity of
 presenting it4 ,having heard that the  
captain had been in ,france many years1 
the ,squire was not disposed to receive 
him very cordially1 considering that so 
doing was disgraceful on the part of an 
,englishman unless he was forced to do  
so by circumstances such as had         
compelled himself to quit his native    
country4 ,the consequence was1 that he  
eyed the ,captain in a manner that was  
far from flattering to his feelings2 but
 when he had read the highly            
recommendatory panegyric contained      
within the letter1 the ,squire softened1
 and soon greeted the stranger with a   
true hearty ,english welcome1 and their 
respective families afterwards became   
most intimately acquainted3 the ,squire1

 delighted to find a countryman to whom 
he could communicate his execrations    
against ,france and the ,french1 whilst 
the ,captain did all in his power to    
defend them from all unjust attacks1    
having himself had favourable experience
 of their urbanity and kindness4 ,some  
time after the ,squire's arrival the    
,captain removed to ,boulogne1 and as   
some grand ceremony was to be there     
celebrated with military and            
ecclesiastical pomp and parade1 in the  
presence of the royal family1 he invited
 the ,squire and his family to pass a   
few days with him1 that they might      
witness so grand a spectacle2 adding1   
that there would be twenty thousand     
troops assembled for the purpose4 ,the  
,squire immediately flew into a violent 
passion1 and vowed he would accept the  
invitation on no other terms than that  
he could take with him thirty thousand  
,englishman to cut their rascally       
,french throats4 ,at length he gave his 
consent that his daughter should pass a 

few days with the family of ,capt4 ,w41 
and at the same time accompany them1 to 
see the ceremony which was to take      
place4 ,partaking of her father's       
feelings1 all the way on the road she   
launched out abusing every thing that   
was ,french and in fact all that she    
encountered until the moment that she   
witnessed the imposing spectacle4 ,she  
was then standing within the church with
 the ,captain amongst the crowd1 but    
some officers perceiving an ,english    
lady of genteel appearance1 invited her 
to join the circle composed of the      
,duchesses of ,angouleme1 of ,berri1 and
 the ladies of the court1 which she     
gladly accepted2 and several fine       
looking young men in their brilliant    
uniforms paying her the greatest        
attentions1 and taking the utmost pains 
that she should have the best possible  
view of the sight1 her heart was        
completely won1 and when she was        
re-conducted to ,capt4 ,w41 her first   
exclamation was1 ,well1 as long as ,i   

live1 ,i never will speak against       
,frenchmen again2 for ,i never was      
treated with so much politeness and     
attention in my own country as ,i have  
been here4 ,but when she expressed the  
same feeling to her father1 his rage    
knew no bounds1 and at the first moment 
he swore he would take her off to       
,england instanter1 adding ,i suppose ,i
 shall have my family disgraced by your 
running off with some ,french           
mustachioed scoundrel or another4 ,the  
poor girl dared not say another word1   
and in a little time the father         
recovered his equanimity4  ,however     
furious the ,squire was in expressions  
against the ,french1 yet his actions    
towards them were of a contrary bearing1
 having a well stocked medicine chest1  
from which he liberally dispensed the   
contents amongst the neighbouring poor1 
according to their different maladies1  
until he received the cognomen of the   
,english doctor who would never take a  
fee4 ,the people at last became so      

grateful for his kindness1 that when    
there was a report that war was likely  
to take place between the two countries1
 as he displayed some uneasiness as to  
his being able to return home1 they     
assured him he should always be certain 
of cattle to convey him to ,calais1 as1 
if he could not procure post horses1    
they would find some in the             
neighbourhood for him1 and if none could
 be found1 they would draw him          
themselves to the spot he desired4      
,after residing a few years in ,france1 
the ,squire returned to his own country1
 little enlightened by his trip1 cursing
 the ,french before he came amongst     
them1 cursing them whilst he was living 
with them1 and at the same time whilst  
he was doing them every possible good1  
and cursing them after his return to    
,england2 not that he could give any    
reason why1 but because it had become a 
habit with him since his childhood1 and 
he had been accustomed to hear his      
father and grandfather do so before him1

 and ,i suppose he liked to keep up that
 which no doubt he thought a good old   
custom4  ,having now1 ,i trust1 given   
sufficient examples of how the deep     
roots of national prejudice defy every  
effort and circumstance to eradicate    
them1 ,i shall hope that my readers will
 endeavour to banish from their minds   
any early impressions they may have     
received inimical to the ,french1 and   
resolve only to judge them as they find 
them1 as reason must suggest that all   
prepossessions cherished against any    
people must powerfully militate against 
the traveller's happiness during his    
sojourn amongst them4 ,i fear that ,i   
may have been considered rather prolix  
upon the subject1 but besides the motive
 to which ,i have already alluded1 ,i   
always have cherished a most anxious    
desire to soften as much as possible all
 national animosities4     ,,chapter    
,,ii4       ,different routes from      
,london to ,paris4--,aspect of the city 
as first      presented to the ,english 

traveller1 according to the road by     
which      he may enter4--,its extent1  
population1 etc4   ,the first measure to
 be adopted after any one has decided   
upon visiting ,paris1 is to provide     
himself with a passport1 which he will  
procure at the ,french ,ambassador's    
office in ,poland street1 for which     
there is no charge1 but it is requisite 
to state by which port you mean to      
proceed2 but in order to leave some     
latitude for caprice1 you may mention   
two places1 as ,calais or ,boulogne1 or 
,dieppe or ,havre1 etc4 ,there are now  
many different means of travelling to   
,paris2 that which was once the most    
frequently adopted was by coach to      
,dover1 then embarking for ,calais1 as  
those are the two ports which present   
the shortest distance between the two   
countries1 being only about twenty-one  
miles apart2 many however prefer        
embarking at ,dover at once for         
,boulogne1 thus avoiding about          
twenty-five miles by land from ,calais  

to ,boulogne1 which certainly does not  
afford a single object of interest1 and 
the distance by sea is only increased   
eight miles4 ,another route is by       
railway to ,brighton1 then crossing to  
,dieppe1 and which is certainly the     
straightest line of any of the routes   
from ,london to ,paris2 but on account  
of there being more sea1 the distance is
 not generally performed in so short a  
period as the other routes1 from the    
uncertainty of the ,ocean4 ,it is not   
therefore so much frequented by         
travellers as those on which they can   
reckon with more accuracy2 the same may 
be said of the route by ,southampton1   
which is performed by railway to that   
town1 and afterwards by steam-packet to 
,havre1 which includes above a hundred  
miles by sea1 consequently but little   
resorted to as compared with the former 
routes4 ,there was another means of     
reaching ,paris1 and that was from      
,london to ,st4 ,vallery by sea2 which  
being near ,abbeville and only #cc      

leagues from ,paris1 there was the least
 of land travelling1 consequently it was
 the cheapest if all went smoothly1 and 
this line was often adopted by strict   
economists1 who however have frequently 
found themselves much disappointed1 as  
sometimes it happened they could not    
make the port1 and have either been     
obliged to put back and lie off         
,ramsgate1 or lay to1 for some hours1   
and perhaps after having landed1 have   
been detained at ,st4 ,vallery1 from not
 having been able to find places in the 
diligences for ,paris4 ,this means1     
however1 of proceeding to ,paris no     
longer exists1 as the steamers have been
 sold1 but it is thought that they will 
be replaced by others4 ,the route which 
is by far the most frequented is that of
 embarking from ,london direct for      
,boulogne1 and is on the long run the   
most economical1 and maybe comfortably  
performed1 living included1 for three   
pounds1 at the present prices1 which are
 #al4 in the best ,cabin from ,london to

 ,boulogne1 then about #al4 #ds41 in the
 inside from ,boulogne to ,paris2 and   
the other expenses will amount to about 
fifteen or sixteen shillings2 with      
respect to the charges on the other     
routes1 they are so often varying that  
it might only deceive the reader by     
stating them as they at present exist1  
when in a few weeks they may be higher  
or lower as circumstances may arise4    
,some persons choose1 the route by      
,southampton and ,havre as being the    
most picturesque1 as from the latter    
town to ,rouen such exquisite scenery is
 presented by the banks of the ,seine1  
as you pass in the steamer between them1
 that the passenger is at a loss on     
which side to bestow his attention1     
whilst rapidly hurried through so       
delightful and fertile a country2 in    
fact1 he is tempted for once to regret  
the velocity of steam conveyance1 in not
 permitting him to tarry awhile to      
contemplate the beautiful scenes by     
which he is environed4 ,rouen1 where the

 traveller should at least remain some  
days1 is an object of great attraction4 
,as my work is especially devoted to    
,paris1 ,i cannot afford much space to  
the description of towns on the road2   
but as the city of ,rouen is the        
largest1 the most interesting1 and the  
most connected with history and ,english
 associations of any upon the routes to 
,paris1 ,i cannot pass it over without  
some comment4 ,its boulevards first     
strike the ,english1 as being not only  
most picturesque and beautiful1 but as  
presenting a scene to them wholly novel1
 the noble vistas formed by towering    
trees1 mingling their branches1 shading 
beneath their foliage many a cheerful   
group1 the merchant's stone villas1 seen
 amongst their bowers1 the high shelving
 grassy banks1 and the lively bustle    
that is ever going forward1 has so      
animated an effect that the beholder    
cannot but catch the infection and feel 
his spirits elevated by the enlivening  
spectacle4 ,but what a contrast on      

entering the city2 the streets narrow1  
dark1 and with no foot pavement1 have a 
mean and gloomy appearance1 but many of 
them being built mostly of wood1 carved 
into fantastic forms1 offer a rich      
harvest to the artist1 and those of our 
own country have amply profited by the  
innumerable picturesque objects which   
,rouen presents4 ,the cathedral1 built  
by ,william the ,conqueror1 is one of   
the most interesting monuments of       
,france2 the ,church of ,st4-,ouen is at
 least as beautiful1 and there are      
several others which well repay the     
visiter for the time he may expend in   
visiting them4 ,the statue of the ,maid 
of ,orleans stands in the ,marche aux   
,veaux1 on the spot where she was burnt 
as a sorceress under the sanction of the
 ,duke of ,bedford in #adca4 ,above all1
 the traveller must not fail to visit   
,mount ,catherine1 which rises just     
above the city1 and commands a view     
equally beautiful and extensive4 ,the   
delightful environs of ,rouen are       

displayed before him1 comprising almost 
every scenic beauty that a country can  
afford2 even the factories1 which in    
most places rather deform the view than 
otherwise1 are here so constructed as to
 contribute to its ornament1 more       
resembling villas than buildings solely 
for utility4 ,hills1 wood1 water1       
bridges1 chateaux1 cottages1 corn fields
 and meadows are so picturesquely       
intermingled1 that every object which   
can give charm to a landscape is here   
united4 ,there are several hills round  
,rouen which present prospects nearly   
equal to that which is witnessed from   
,mount ,catherine1 and in fact it is    
difficult to imagine any situation which
 affords so many pleasant walks and such
 enchanting scenery4 ,indeed1 all the   
way to ,paris by this route 7that is by 
what is called the lower road7 which for
 a considerable distance runs within    
sight of the ,seine1 the country is most
 highly interesting1 passing through    
,louvier1 ,gaillon1 ,vernon1 ,mantes and

 ,st4 ,germains4  ,calais1 as being the 
nearest point to the ,english coast1 and
 at which we so often obtain our first  
peep at ,france1 merits some notice1 and
 although it offers but few attractions1
 and is surrounded by a flat cheerless  
country1 yet there are connected with it
 some associations which are replete    
with interest2 as who that has ever read
 ,sterne's ,sentimental ,journey can    
forget the simple but impressive        
description he gives of the poor friar  
and other objects which he there met1   
and which he has engraven on the minds  
of his readers1 in his own peculiar     
style1 in characters never to be erased2
 for my part1 as ,i first approached    
,calais ,i thought but of ,sterne and   
his plain1 unvarnished tale1 of the     
trifles he encountered1 around which he 
contrived to weave an interest which is 
felt even by the inhabitants of ,calais 
to this day2 although they knew his     
works but through the spoiling medium of
 translation1 still they never fail to  

exhibit to the ,englishman the alcove in
 which he is said to have written his   
adventures in ,calais4 ,as ,i entered   
the town1 instantly the works of        
,hogarth appeared before me1 for who is 
there that does not remember his        
excellent representation of the ,gates  
of ,calais1 with the meagre sentinel and
 still more skinny cook bending under   
the weight of a dish crowned with an    
enormous sirloin of beef1 no doubt      
intended to regale some newly-arrived   
,john ,bull1 whilst a fat monk scans it 
with a longing eye4 ,next the bust of   
,eustache de ,st4 ,pierre awakes the    
attention1 and the surrender of ,calais 
and his devoted patriotism rises in     
one's memory4 ,another souvenir also    
must not be forgotten1 namely1 the print
 of the foot of ,louis the ,eighteenth1 
which is cut in the stone1 and a piece  
of brass let in where he first stepped  
on shore1 and undoubtedly represents a  
very pretty little foot2 but when a     
,frenchman who was no amateur of the    

,bourbon dynasty was asked to admire its
 symmetry1 he observed it was very well1
 but that it would look much better if  
it was turned t'other way1 that is to   
say1 going out of the kingdom instead of
 coming into it4 ,if the traveller have 
time1 it is worth while to mount a      
tower1 at the top of which is a sort of 
lantern capable of containing about a   
dozen persons1 and commanding a most    
extensive view over the sea1 and on the 
opposite side the country is visible for
 a considerable distance1 bearing a most
 uninviting appearance4 ,there are a    
great number of hotels at ,calais1 and  
,i have been at many of them1 but have  
found that kept by ,m4 ,derhorter1      
called the ,hotel ,bourbon1 the most    
comfortable and economical1 and the     
civility of the master cannot anywhere  
be surpassed4 ,dessin's1 for the        
nobility and those who have equipages1  
is still the favourite and has been for 
time immemorial4  ,nothing worthy of    
note presents itself between ,calais and

 ,boulogne1 except the little village of
 ,wimille1 which made some impression   
upon my mind1 as being so much prettier 
and so much more village-like than any  
other through which we had passed1 and  
near here perished the unfortunate      
aeronauts ,pilatre and ,romain1 falling 
from their balloon when at a prodigious 
height from the ground and in sight of  
many spectators4 ,they were buried in   
the churchyard1 in which a monument has 
been erected commemorative of the event4
 ,about two miles from this hamlet      
,boulogne appears in sight1 cheering the
 spectator by its gay and animated      
aspect1 the numerous groups of          
genteel-looking persons constantly      
promenading the streets1 pier and port1 
give it a most lively appearance1 which 
is enhanced by the extreme cleanliness  
which is observed in all the principal  
streets1 and the cheerful air afforded  
by the white stone houses with their    
green balconies and shutters4 ,but the  
numerously well-dressed portion of the  

population1 which so greatly contribute 
towards enlivening the scene1 consists  
almost wholly of ,english1 as the few   
,french families which still reside in  
,boulogne1 above the rank of the        
tradespeople1 keep themselves very close
 and retired as in all other provincial 
towns in ,france2 and in ,boulogne they 
are very suspicious of the ,english1    
having had such numbers of bad          
characters who at first preserved a very
 respectable appearance but ultimately  
proved to be swindlers4 ,the higher     
,french families1 therefore1 decline any
 association with the ,english1 unless  
with persons who have come              
highly-recommended1 or have resided many
 years in the town with an unimpeachable
 character4 ,it so happened that        
circumstances brought me in contact with
 two or three of these exclusive        
personages1 and their remarks about the 
,english afforded me much amusement1 and
 may be taken as types of the general   
observations of the provincial ,french  

upon our country-people4  ,the worthy   
matrons of families have often said to  
me1 ,how is it1 ,sir1 that the wives and
 mothers of your country can manage     
their domestic concerns1 when they are  
seen almost continually walking about   
the streets at hours when we find it    
indispensable to attend to our household
 affairs4  ,i replied1 that after having
 given their orders they relied in a    
great degree upon their servants        
executing them with punctuality4        
,indeed6 was the exclamation2 how       
fortunate they must be to have such     
immaculate servants that they can so    
entirely depend upon them3 we should be 
very happy if we could have such as did 
not require looking after1 but          
unfortunately ,french servants partake  
too much of human nature for mistresses 
to be able to leave them wholly to      
themselves4  ,i observed that perhaps   
,english servants generally being more  
humble1 obedient1 and subservient to    
their superiors1 greater reliance might 

be placed upon them1 and undoubtedly    
more certainty as to their obeying the  
instructions they received4  ,then it is
 surprising1 said the ladies1 that your 
country people do not always bring      
servants with them1 and very unlucky    
that in so many instances when they have
 done so1 that their domestics should so
 often be brought before the ,tribunals 
of ,correction for different            
irregularities4  ,i replied1 that many  
good and regular servants did not like  
to quit their native land1 and of those 
who were brought over1 certainly in many
 instances their employers had been     
disappointed2 that in a foreign country 
all was new to them1 and they forgot    
their former regular habits1 and        
certainly in too many instances had     
misbehaved themselves4  ,consequently1  
returned my interlocutors1 requiring a  
more vigilant eye to superintend them4  
,but there is another subject which     
affords us much surprise1 and that is   
the manner in which ,english parents    

permit their daughters to go alone about
 the streets1 or to walk with a         
gentleman who is neither their father   
nor brother4  ,i assigned as a reason   
for our allowing them so much liberty1  
that we had such perfect confidence in  
them that we felt assured we could trust
 to their own firmness and discretion to
 prevent any improper consequences      
arising from the freedom they were      
permitted to enjoy4 ,unfortunately1 that
 confidence is but too frequently       
abused1 rejoined one of the ladies1 if  
we are to judge from several lamentable 
occurrences which have latterly taken   
place in this town amongst the ,english 
young ladies4  ,i felt the rebuke1 as ,i
 knew to what circumstances they        
alluded1 and observed that the ,english 
society inhabiting ,boulogne were by no 
means what could1 be termed the elite of
 the nation1 although there were many   
families of the highest respectability4 
,the ladies1 perceiving by my manner    
that ,i was somewhat nettled1           

endeavoured to soften what they had     
said1 by observing that certainly it    
would not be just to estimate the       
,english people by the samples which    
came to reside at ,boulogne1 as they had
 generally understood that they were    
persons of indifferent reputation1 who  
fled from their own country because they
 could no longer live there in credit1  
but that amongst the number there       
undoubtedly were some very quiet people4
  ,a stranger would not appreciate the  
degree of praise which is contained in  
the word quiet when used by the ,french1
 who appear to consider it as comprising
 all the cardinal virtues2 when seeking 
a house or apartments1 if you say any   
thing favourable or unfavourable of     
them1 they never fail to remind you that
 they are so quiet4 ,the same eulogy    
they will pronounce on their daughters  
with peculiar pride and energy1 when    
they wish to extol them to the skies1   
and in good truth their demoiselles are 
quiet enough in all conscience1 for it  

requires often a considerable degree of 
ingenuity to extract from them more than
 monosyllables4 ,we have been accustomed
 to consider the ,french as a restless1 
capricious1 volatile people1 and so ,i  
suppose they might have been formerly1  
but now they are undoubtedly the        
reverse1 being a quiet routine plodding 
sort of people1 particularly as regards 
the provincials2 and even amongst the   
,parisians there are thousands that     
reside in one quarter of the city1 which
 they seldom quit1 never approaching    
what they consider the gay portion of   
,paris1 but live amongst each other1    
visiting only within their own circle1  
consisting almost entirely of their     
relations and family connexions4 ,this  
feeling is certainly exemplified still  
farther at ,boulogne1 as ,i knew an old 
couple who lived in the upper town1     
which joins the lower town except by the
 separation of the wall of the          
fortifications1 and had not been in the 
latter for five years1 because they     

considered it was too bustling and too  
much a place of pleasure for such quiet1
 homely1 and orderly folk as they       
professed to be and certainly were1 in  
every sense of the word4 ,at ,bordeaux  
,i knew three old ladies who were born  
in that city1 and never had been in any 
other town during their whole lives1 nor
 ever desired to pass the walls of their
 native place4 ,many persons who have   
been accustomed to spend their days in  
the provinces have a sort of horror of  
,paris2 ,i remember an old gentleman at 
,rouen1 who with his antiquated spouse  
lived a sort of ,darby and ,joan kind of
 life1 their only daughter being married
 and living elsewhere2 and on my once   
asking him if he had ever been to       
,paris1 he replied that he was once so  
situated as to be compelled to go upon  
urgent business that rendered his       
presence indispensable1 but that he saw 
very little of the place1 because he had
 always heard that it was a city replete
 with vice and dissipation1 and that    

during the few days his affairs         
compelled him to stay he kept close to  
his apartment1 only quitting it to      
proceed to the house wherein he had to  
transact business1 and then he went in a
 fiacre1 as1 if he had walked perhaps he
 might have been jostled1 run over1     
robbed1 or something unpleasant might   
have occurred4 ,ah6 that's very true1   
you did quite right1 and acted very     
prudently1 my dear1 observed his wife1  
and nobody knows the anxiety ,i felt    
till you came back again4 ,although the 
rising generation of the ,french is not 
quite so dormant in their ideas as that 
which is passing1 yet there is not even 
with them the same spirit of travel and 
enterprise which exist in the ,english4 
,that ,france has had1 a reputation for 
restlessness1 love of change1 and       
tumult1 can only be explained by stating
 that until the present time for the    
last two centuries1 with the exception  
of ,louis the ,eighteenth1 she has been 
most unfortunate in her rulers1 who have

 been supporting a state of extravagant 
splendour which could alone be sustained
 by being wrung from the middle and the 
lower classes2 hence the revolution in  
#aghi1 which might be considered as the 
ripened fruit which the preceding reigns
 had been nurturing4 ,of the affair of  
the three days in #ahcj1 few ,i believe 
will deny the intensity of the          
provocation1 but then it will be said   
how do you account for their having been
 so turbulent and discontented during   
the present reign8 ,to which ,i should  
answer in the same manner as an officer1
 who1 defending the character of his    
regiment1 observed that it was composed 
of a thousand men1 of which nine hundred
 and fifty were peaceable and quiet     
subjects1 but the other fifty being very
 noisy they were constantly heard of1   
and his corps had obtained the          
appellation of the noisy regiment1 as no
 one bestowed a thought upon the 'nine  
hundred and fifty men who were orderly' 
because no one ever heard of them3 thus 

it may be said of ,france1 the          
population may be estimated at about    
thirty-five millions1 of which perhaps  
one million may be discontented1 and    
amongst them are many persons connected 
with the press1 who not only contrive by
 that means to extend their war-whoop to
 every corner of ,france1 but as        
newspapers are conveyed to all the      
civilised parts of the world1 and the   
only medium by which a country is judged
 by those who have not an opportunity of
 visiting it and making their own       
observations by a residence amongst the 
people1 it naturally is inferred in     
,england and in other nations that the  
,french are a most dissatisfied and     
refractory people4 ,but a case in point 
may be cited1 which proves that the     
dissatisfaction is not general1 nor has 
ever been during the present reign4     
,from the time that ,louis-,philippe    
accepted the throne in #ahcj1 until     
,june the #fth1 #ahcb1 a number of young
 men in the different colleges at ,paris

 occupied themselves constantly with the
 affairs of the state1 each forming a   
sort of political utopia1 and however   
different were their various theories1  
they all united in one object1 and that 
was to overthrow the existing           
government1 and secretly took measures  
for arming themselves1 and mustering    
what strength they could collect in     
point of numbers1 which was but very    
insignificant compared to the importance
 of the blow they intended to strike2   
but they counted on the rising of the   
people1 and the event proved they       
counted without their host4 ,june the   
#fth1 #ahcb1 being the day appointed for
 the funeral of ,general ,lamarque1 they
 chose it for the development of their  
project1 and although the misguided     
youths fought with skill1 constancy and 
courage1 even with a fanatic devotion to
 their cause1 yet the populace took no  
part with them1 and the ,national ,guard
 were the first to fire upon them2 and  
after two days hard fighting in the     

barricades they had raised1 scarcely any
 remained who were not either killed or 
wounded4 ,since that1 no attempt of the 
slightest importance has been made to   
overthrow the government1 and in fact ,i
 have ever found that ninety-nine       
,parisians out of a hundred exclaim     
,tranquillite a tout prix1 that is quiet
 at all prices1 and all classes are     
interested in cherishing this wish1 the 
nobles and gentry that they may         
tranquilly enjoy what they possess1 the 
tradesman that he may obtain a sale for 
his goods1 and the workman that he may  
procure work4 ,it is only a set of      
political enthusiasts1 to be found      
amongst the students1 whose wild        
republican schemes have dazzled others  
and induced the different outbreaks     
which have occurred since the event of  
the three days1 and having been treated 
with lenity in the first instance1      
unprecedented in the annals of every    
other government1 they were emboldened  
to repeat their daring attempts4  ,but  

let any one traverse the provinces of   
,france1 get acquainted with the people1
 make inquiries around him and penetrate
 into their habits and customs1 and he  
will find that the predominant feeling  
is love of the spot on which they are   
born2 the farmer will keep on the farm  
his ancestors tilled before him for     
ages1 and if offered a better farm1 if  
it be far removed from his home and that
 of his fathers he will reject it2 with 
the same tenacity the labourer clings to
 his cottage and the little bit of land 
he has always delved4 ,but it is with   
the landed proprietor that one finds the
 most powerful example of the durability
 of their adhesion to the cradle of     
their birth4 ,there are many persons    
possessed of estates of no great extent1
 from eight to fifteen hundred a year1  
which have regularly descended to them  
from their ancestors1 to whom they have 
been granted1 at as remote a period as  
the time of ,charlemagne1 and have      
descended to the present possessors from

 generation to generation1 whilst there 
does not appear to have been in all that
 period any great elevation or          
depression in their circumstances4 ,the 
habit of living up to their incomes as  
in ,england is very rare in ,france2 if 
they have daughters1 from the day they  
are born the parents begin to save for  
their dowry2 even the peasant will      
follow that practice if he can only put 
by a sou a day4 ,i have known many      
landed proprietors of from fifteen      
hundred to two thousand a year that did 
not support any thing like the style    
that a person with a similar fortune    
would in ,england2 if a ,frenchman has  
more than two or three children1 he     
seldom spends half his income if it be  
possible to live upon a quarter1 his    
object is that he may leave all his     
children in an equal pecuniary position 
without dividing his land2 as although  
the law of primogeniture does not exist1
 yet parents like that one son should   
keep up the estate intact1 and the one  

fixed upon for that purpose is generally
 the eldest1 the others receive their   
portions in money from the father's     
savings1 and are usually brought up to  
one of the liberal professions1 and in  
many instances are sufficiently         
fortunate as to realize by promotion or 
their talents1 emoluments equal with    
what portion they inherit to place them 
in as favourable a position as the      
brother on whom devolves the estate4 ,in
 other instances the son who holds the  
land is taxed to pay from it a certain  
amount to his brothers and sisters1 in  
order to render their situation in life 
somewhat upon a par2 but it so happens  
that very large families are not so     
frequent in ,france as in ,england4 ,a  
system of frugality is prevalent amongst
 all classes of the ,french1 and a habit
 of contenting themselves with but      
little as regards their daily expenses2 
nor have they that ambition to step out 
of their class so general throughout    
,england4 ,a farmer in ,france works    

much the same as his men1 dresses in a  
plain decent manner1 and considers      
himself very little superior to his men1
 whilst his wife goes to market with her
 butter and eggs upon one of the farm   
horses2 and without any education       
herself she thinks she does wonders in  
having her daughters taught to read1    
write and cypher1 but invariably        
economises to give them a marriage      
portion4 ,this applies to most of the   
farmers throughout ,france1 and will be 
found descriptive of those inhabiting   
the country from ,calais to ,paris2 but 
in ,normandy they are frequently what is
 in ,french estimation considered very  
rich1 and their habits and expenses are 
in proportion2 and about ,melun and some
 few parts of ,france where the farms   
are very large1 the occupiers would even
 in ,england be termed wealthy4 ,the    
extreme of poverty or what may be       
designated misery is but little known2  
the traveller is deceived by the number 
of beggars which infest the high roads1 

and is induced to imagine that the      
lowest orders must be in a most wretched
 state1 but the fact is otherwise1 and  
begging is no other than a trade on the 
most frequented roads4 ,turn into the   
by-lanes1 penetrate the interior of the 
country and in the villages distant from
 the highways and but few beggars are to
 be found1 nor could ,i ever hear of an 
instance of any one in the country parts
 of ,france perishing from want2 yet    
there are no forced poor rates1 the     
landed proprietors however regularly    
give so much a month voluntarily to     
those who are past labour and have no   
relations to provide for them1 and      
houseless and pennyless wanderers are   
received and sheltered for a night by   
the higher farmers and people of        
property1 the mendicant having soup and 
bread given him at night and the same   
when he starts in the morning4 ,of these
 there are great numbers within the last
 few years1 being refugees from ,spain1 
,italy and even ,poland1 driven to seek 

shelter where they can find it by the   
political convulsions of their          
countries4 ,in this manner1 the ,french 
have recently been severely taxed1 but  
they appear never to have the heart to  
deny shelter and food1 although they    
carry economy to such a height as would 
be styled by many of my affluent        
countrymen absolute parsimony2 which is 
perceptible in all their transactions1  
and is in a great degree the cause of   
the miserable state of their            
agriculture1 which is also in some      
measure owing to the utter ignorance of 
the farmers1 who in all that tends      
towards improvement display the         
stupidity of asses with the obstinacy of
 mules4 ,there can be no doubt that1    
generally speaking1 the soil of ,france 
is capable of producing half as much    
more than it at present yields2 they    
still persevere in the same system as   
existed in ,england in the year #aggj1  
when ,arthur ,young wrote his           
,agricultural ,tour1 describing the     

various practices in the different      
counties throughout the kingdom4 ,two   
white crops and a summer fallow is the  
usual course in ,france1 sometimes      
varied by a crop of clover1 and very    
often they fallow for two years         
together2 they have no idea of          
leguminous crops as winter provision for
 their cattle1 and of the advantage to  
be derived from stall feeding they are  
quite ignorant1 except in a few         
provinces1 as a part of ,normandy and   
,brittany4 ,the same with regard to the 
drill system2 they mostly plough very   
shallow1 and do not keep their land very
 clean1 with a few exceptions2 the      
consequence is their crops are generally
 very light4 ,thanks to the natural     
richness of their meadows in ,normandy1 
they do certainly produce some beasts of
 an immense weight for the exhibition   
annually held on ,shrove ,tuesday4      
,there are generally about a dozen      
brought to ,paris1 and the finest is the
 one selected to be led about the       

streets2 the one chosen last year       
weighed #c1hjj ,french pounds1 and as   
there are two ounces more than in the   
,english pound the immense size of the  
animal may be imagined4 ,in the winter1 
they fatten their beasts with hay1      
clover and corn1 but oilcake is not     
known except in a few instances1 when   
beasts are fattened for prizes or       
exhibitions4 ,their agricultural        
implements are in keeping with the rest 
of their system2 ,i have seen them      
ploughing even in the lightest land1    
with the great old heavy turnwrest      
ploughs and four bulky horses1 which    
might have been effected just as well   
with a light ,rotherham plough and one  
horse4 ,recently1 however1 ,i have seen 
some slight ameliorations1 and those    
parts of ,france which are nearest      
,england one might expect would improve 
the soonest4 ,the farming servants are  
generally a hard-working1 quiet1 sober  
people1 contented with very little1     
their living costing them a mere trifle2

 in harvest-time an ,englishman will    
pour beer down his throat that will cost
 as much as would keep a whole ,french  
family2 there is a natural economy in   
their habits that tends to making their 
wages more than equal to their demand4  
,an ,englishman must have the best      
wheaten bread1 and when he gets a pound 
of meat he is ready to eat it all       
himself2 the ,frenchman is contented    
with a cheap brown bread1 quite as      
wholesome as the finest1 and to his     
portion of meat he adds some vegetables 
with which soup is made1 and it gives   
comfort to the whole family2 and it is  
quite a mistake to imagine that beer and
 animal food produce greater physical   
strength1 as ,i have in several         
instances proved that the ,french porter
 will carry much more than the ,english4
 ,i remember when lodging in ,salisbury 
,street1 in the ,strand1 having packed  
up my things for my departure for       
,paris1 when a porter came to carry them
 to the ,golden ,cross1 he said it was  

impossible that any man could take them 
at once1 and the people of the house    
joined in saying that it was far beyond 
one man's load1 consisting of a moderate
 sized trunk1 a large portmanteau1 and a
 well-stuffed carpet bag2 when ,i       
declared that the first porter ,i should
 meet with at ,paris would take them all
 the same distance without raising an   
objection1 a sort of smile of           
incredulity passed from one to the      
other1 expressive of how absurd they    
thought such an assertion4 ,on arriving 
at ,paris1 however1 the very first      
porter ,i spoke to in the               
,diligence-yard took them all1 without a
 question as to their weight4 ,in       
several cases1 when persons have been   
quitting ,london for ,paris with me1 ,i 
have proved to them how much heavier a  
burthen the ,french porters will carry  
than the ,english4 ,i believe the cause 
arises in a great degree from the latter
 not being addicted to drinking ardent  
spirits1 which is ruinous to the        

strength and constitutions of such      
numbers of the lower classes in ,london4
 ,but the ,greek and ,turkish porters   
will carry twice as much as the ,french1
 and their beverage is nothing but water
 and their food principally rice4 ,in   
almost every description of labour the  
,englishman has the advantage when what 
may be styled knack or method be        
required2 the consequence is1 that they 
make the most of what physical strength 
they possess2 hence he will plough1 mow1
 or reap more in a day than a           
,frenchman4 ,not only is the machinery  
which the ,englishman employs much      
better1 but he is what may be termed    
more handy in making use of it2 in every
 thing which relates to husbandry or    
mechanism the ,frenchman is generally   
awkward2 a more powerful instance cannot
 be cited than that of their always     
employing two men to shoe a horse1 one  
man being occupied to hold up the       
horse's leg1 whilst the farrier performs
 his part of the work2 is it not        

astonishing that after an uninterrupted 
communication with ,england for         
twenty-seven years1 that they should    
never have observed1 that an ,english   
farrier1 by taking the animal's leg     
between his own1 is able to effect his  
purpose just as well as if two men were 
employed2 but the ,french must have     
remarked that custom in ,england2 only1 
the besotted prejudice that exists in   
that class against every species of     
innovation causes them to persevere in  
their old habits4 ,the agricultural     
population in ,france are more wealthy  
and generally better clothed than ours1 
particularly as regards the women2 they 
pride themselves much upon their stocks 
of linen and their bedding2 instead of  
the men expending their money in drink1 
what little they can save beyond their  
daily wants they lay out in contributing
 to their solid comforts1 and as        
spinning and knitting are the constant  
occupation of the women in their leisure
 hours1 when their children marry they  

are enabled to furnish them with a      
portion of the fruits of their industry2
 even the peasant girl has a trousseau1 
as it is called1 that is1 some stock of 
linen at her marriage1 and a trifle of  
money wherewith to begin the world4     
,thus take ,france throughout2 it will  
be found1 that1 in consequence of       
temperance and a persevering industry1  
the peasantry are generally passively   
happy2 there is a great difference in   
respect to their wages and comforts1    
according to the province to which they 
belong2 but although the intention of   
this work is especially to treat upon   
,paris and its population1 yet as my    
readers must pass through a considerable
 portion of ,france before they can     
arrive at ,paris1 ,i judged it right to 
give them some information of the       
manners and habits of the population1   
with which they must meet in the course 
of their journey2 but without farther   
delay will now at once conduct them to  
the ,grand ,capital1 and as ,i consider 

the first impressions are the most      
permanent1 ,i will introduce them by    
that entrance which presents so grand an
 appearance1 as to surpass that of any  
other country in ,europe4 ,in coming    
from ,england1 they may enter ,paris at 
this point by the ,rouen road4  ,the    
first object that strikes the traveller1
 as he approaches ,paris1 is the        
,triumphal ,arch1 erected with the view 
of commemorating the victories of       
,napoleon1 but as those victories were  
ultimately crowned by defeat1 it is more
 consistent to consider the ,triumphal  
,arch as a triumph of art than of arms2 
as certainly the magnificence and       
sublimity of the design is only to be   
equalled by the exquisite beauty of the 
execution4 ,having passed this noble    
monument and splendid specimen of       
architectural talent1 the ,champs       
,elysees extend in all their beauty to  
the view of the beholder1 presenting a  
fine broad road with rows of lofty trees
 on either side1 whilst handsome        

buildings and superb fountains are      
occasionally visible from behind the    
foliage2 and one of the latter1 which   
rises exactly in the centre1 has a most 
happy effect2 from this circle several  
roads diverge in different directions1  
displaying various objects of interest1 
but none of so high an order as that of 
the ,hospital of ,invalids1 for aged and
 wounded soldiers1 the whole expanse of 
which is seen in the distance at the end
 of a long wide avenue of trees4 ,from  
the ,triumphal ,arch on either side     
extends a row of ornamental lamps for   
nearly a mile1 which when lighted have  
the most brilliant effect2 and when it  
is considered how very small the        
distances are between each lamp1 ,i     
believe the assertion to be correct1    
that there is not another such display  
of gas anywhere to be found4 ,arrived at
 the ,place ,louis ,quinze1 or ,place de
 la ,concorde1 as it is now called1 such
 a coup d'oeil is presented as remains  
unrivalled in ,europe1 or indeed1 in any

 part of the world4 ,on one side1 at the
 end of a handsome and regular street1  
called the ,rue ,royale1 rises in       
majestic height the ,madeleine1 with its
 noble columns crowned by its sculptured
 entablature in mezzo relievo1 and      
adorned by its numerous statues1 yet    
preserving a chaste simplicity          
throughout the whole4 ,on the opposite  
side facing it1 in a direct line at the 
end of a bridge1 is the ,chamber of     
,deputies1 resembling a ,roman temple2  
its style is severe and its tout        
ensemble has an air of heavy grandeur1  
which is consistent with an edifice in  
which are to be discussed the affairs of
 so great a nation4 ,in the centre of   
the ,place is an ,egyptian column1 which
 was with much difficulty brought from  
,egypt1 and raised with considerable    
ingenuity where it now stands1 without  
any accident2 gorgeous fountains of     
bronze and gold are constantly playing1 
whilst colossal statues1 being          
allegorical representations of the      

principal towns of ,france1 are placed  
at regular distances1 and appear as it  
were in solemn contemplation of the     
splendid scene by which they are        
surrounded4 ,two noble buildings1 the   
,garde ,meuble and the ,hotel de la     
,marine1 which may be styled palaces1   
adorn each side of the ,rue ,royale1 and
 form one side of the magnificent       
square1 whilst another is occupied by   
the ,elysian ,fields1 and that          
immediately opposite to the ,tuileries  
gardens2 but so beautiful1 so wonderful 
is the whole combined1 that accustomed  
as ,i have been to frequent it for      
upwards of twenty years1 ,i cannot now  
traverse it without remaining some time 
to admire the extraordinary combination 
of so many beautiful objects centering  
in one vast area4 ,here no mean or      
unseemly building meets the eye1 but all
 is made tributary to one grand effect2 
even the lamps with their supporters are
 of bronze and gold1 whilst in the      
distance the gilded dome of the         

,invalides peers above all1 and gives a 
brilliant termination to the sublimity  
of the scene4  ,illustration3 ,champin  
del4 ,lith4 ,rigo ,freres et ,cie       
,triumphal ,arch4 ,published by ,f4     
,sinnett4 #ae1 ,grande rue ,verle4      
,thus much for the only entrance of     
,paris which has aught to boast1 but    
having1 in fact1 so many charms that it 
must be considered by the visiter as    
compensating for the deficiencies of    
every other4 ,in entering from ,boulogne
 or ,calais1 nothing can be conceived   
more discouraging than the first        
appearance of ,paris as you are borne   
through the ,faubourg ,st4 ,denis2 the  
street1 it is true1 is wide and the     
houses large1 but they have a dirty     
gloomy forlorn aspect1 which gives them 
an uninhabited appearance1 or as if the 
inmates did not belong to them2 as no   
care appears to have been taken to give 
them some degree of neatness and        
comfort2 in fact1 to bestow upon them an
 air of home2 the stranger continues    

rattling over the stones between these  
great lumbering-looking dwellings1 until
 his eye is attracted by the ,porte ,st4
 ,denis1 which is a triumphal arch built
 by ,louis the ,fourteenth1 and         
certainly presents a most imposing mass 
of sculpture1 which1 although blackened 
by time1 is an object well worthy the   
attention of the observing traveller2   
and here he crosses the ,boulevards1 by 
which he gets a little peep at the      
inspiring gaiety of ,paris1 but is soon 
hurried into noisy streets until his    
brain feels in a whirl2 and on his      
arrival at the ,diligence-yard1 when he 
hopes to obtain a little repose1 he is  
annoyed by being asked for the keys of  
his trunks1 for the ,custom ,house      
officers1 to make believe to look into  
them to ascertain that you have not     
smuggled any liquors or other material  
within the walls of ,paris4 ,those who  
are fortunate enough to travel in their 
own carriages1 are exempted from such   
tiresome ceremony4 ,some of the other   

entries to ,paris are somewhat better1  
but none of them sufficiently so1 to be 
worthy notice2 perhaps the best amongst 
the bad is by the ,faubourg ,st4        
,antoine1 the ,barrieres du ,trone1 at  
the commencement and summit of the      
street1 presenting a most noble         
appearance2 indeed1 as far as the       
barriers are concerned1 there are many  
which are well worthy of notice1 being  
mostly handsome stone buildings with    
columns that give them an imposing      
effect1 particularly when we recollect  
the little turnpike gates at the        
principal entrances of ,london1 with the
 exception of the recent erections at   
,knightsbridge1 which sink into         
nothingness when compared to the        
,triumphal ,arch at the entrance already
 described2 and1 except foreigners1     
particularly the ,english1 enter by that
 quarter1 the first aspect of ,paris    
mostly excites disappointment2 the      
generality of the streets wanting that  
straight line of regularity so prevalent

 throughout ,london1 the ,french capital
 has an incongruous patchy sort of      
effect1 and its beauties and objects of 
interest have to be sought1 but to the  
eye of an artist it is much more        
gratifying than that dull sameness which
 reigns throughout ,london1 which       
,canova very justly designated as       
consisting of walls with square holes in
 them2 for what otherwise can be said of
 our houses in general1 but that they   
are literally upright walls1 with square
 holes for doors and windows4 ,regent   
,street and a few others1 which have    
been recently erected1 form an exception
 to the rule4 ,but in almost every      
street in ,paris a draftsman finds      
subject for his pencil2 their richly    
carved gateways1 their elaborately      
wrought iron balconies1 their ornamented
 windows1 and even their protruding     
signs1 all help to break the formal     
straight line and afford ample food for 
sketching2 and in many of their old and 
least fashionable streets1 an ancient   

church with its gothic doorway1 adorned 
by rich and crumbling sculpture1 invites
 the artist to pause and exercise his   
imitative art4 ,paris at first strikes a
 stranger as still more bustling and    
noisy than ,london1 as the streets being
 narrower and hack vehicles more used in
 proportion1 the circulation gets sooner
 choked up1 and the rattling over the   
stones of the carriages is still more   
deafening1 being within so confined a   
space2 hence also the confusion is      
greater2 then there is always a sort of 
bewilderment when one first arrives in a
 large city1 that makes it appear much  
more astounding than is found to be the 
case as soon as the visiter becomes     
accustomed to its apparent labyrinth4   
,according to comparative calculations1 
and taking the medium1 ,paris is about  
twenty-two miles round1 and the         
population1 foreigners included1 one    
million2 many estimate it at eleven     
hundred thousand1 which ,i have no doubt
 it may be1 if several villages be      

included which absolutely join ,paris2  
such as ,passy1 ,belleville1 etc4 ,the  
extreme height of the houses would      
induce a belief1 that a more1 dense mass
 of people inhabited the same space of  
ground than could be the case in        
,london2 but to counterbalance that     
circumstance1 it must be taken into     
consideration that there are such an    
immense number of large gardens and     
court-yards in ,paris1 which occupy a   
great extent of ground4 ,i have often   
been surprised to find1 that in nasty   
dirty narrow streets1 the back windows  
of the houses looked over extensive     
gardens1 with lofty trees2 these are    
oftener to be found in the old parts of 
,paris than in the modern quarters4 ,a  
much greater proportion of the          
population consists of foreigners1 than 
is the case in ,london1 consequently it 
is more moving and changeable4 ,it is   
the great post town for almost all      
,europeans who visit ,england1 and      
hundreds of thousands come to ,paris1   

who never think of going to ,london1    
deterred by an exaggerated idea of the  
expense2 hence it will be found that    
very few persons from the ,continent    
visit ,london who have not already been 
to ,paris1 although1 now that steam     
conveyance affords such facilities of   
accommodation between ,london and many  
of the large cities in ,europe1 the case
 is somewhat altered4 ,but ,paris has   
been long regarded as the ,museum of the
 ,continent1 and few men possessing good
 fortunes from civilised countries1 if  
gifted with enquiring minds1 consider   
their education complete if they have   
not sojourned some time at ,paris1 which
 has for time immemorial had the        
reputation of being the seat of the     
polite arts4 ,nearly a third of the     
houses in ,paris are designated hotels1 
many of which do not provide meals but  
merely furnished lodgings1 and most of  
their inmates are foreigners1 others1   
persons from the provinces1 consequently
 at least one quarter of the population 

of ,paris is constantly changing4 ,but  
perhaps no city is anywhere to be found 
where a stranger can sooner accommodate 
himself in every respect1 as the customs
 are such that a person may live as he  
likes1 go where he likes1 and do as he  
likes1 provided he do no harm4 ,in      
,london1 if a lady and gentleman from   
the country arrive for the purpose of   
passing a day1 and have no              
acquaintances1 there are no houses as in
 ,paris where one can take a wife1      
sister1 or daughter to breakfast or     
dine1 without being subject to remark1  
unless indeed you can draw up to the    
door of a hotel with an equipage2 then  
certainly every attention and           
accommodation is to be found1 but only  
such as will suit a very limited number 
of purses2 whereas1 at ,paris a family  
may find in most of the restaurateurs   
small apartments where they can dine by 
themselves if they object to the public 
room1 but even in the latter they might 
take their meal very undisturbed and    

without exciting the slightest          
observation1 at various prices that will
 either suit the economist or the       
wealthy individual4 ,this is amongst    
many of the conveniences of ,paris2 as  
also that of the libraries being open to
 the public1 any one having the         
privilege to call for the book he       
wishes1 where he may read as quietly as 
in his own house4 ,this is extremely    
useful to studious and literary men1 as 
there are so many works of reference too
 expensive to be within the compass of a
 small private library1 which may be    
found in the liberal establishments in  
which ,paris abounds4 ,museums1         
exhibitions1 academies1 gardens1 public 
buildings1 etc41 are1 with a very few   
exceptions1 accessible to the foreigner 
merely on the exhibition of his         
passport4     ,,chapter ,,iii4  ,,to    
,,an ,,historian4       ,a very brief   
account of the foundation of ,paris1 its
 progress      during the most          
remarkable epochs1 and under the reigns 

of some of      its most celebrated     
monarchs with its1 gradual advance in   
civilisation to the present period4     
,some allusions also to the      customs
 which existed in the earlier ages1 and 
a statement of the      different dates 
as regards the erection and foundation  
of the      various monuments and       
institutions still extant4              
,illustration3 ,paris in the #afth      
,century4 ,view taken from the towers of
 ,notre ,dame4   ,france1 under the     
ancient appellation of ,gaul1 is cited  
in history as early as #fbb years before
 the ,christian era1 when ,belloveaus1 a
 celebrated leader from that country1   
defeated the ,hetrurians and made       
himself master of ,piedmont and         
,lombardy1 by crossing the ,rhone and   
the ,alps with his army1 which at that  
period had never before been attempted4 
,increasing in power1 we find1 #ahj     
years after1 the ,gauls1 headed by      
,brennus1 sacking and burning ,rome2 and
 the same chief1 after having been      

defeated and cut off by ,camillus1 the  
,roman general1 with the loss of #dj1jjj
 men1 again appears in the year #chg    
before ,christ at the head of #aej1jjj  
foot and #fj1jjj horse1 invading        
,macedonia1 and after ravaging the      
country and being ultimately defeated in
 ,greece1 to have put an end to his     
existence4 ,some idea may be formed of  
the ferocious and obdurate spirit of the
 ,gauls1 from the circumstance of the   
women fighting as bravely as the men    
against ,marius1 who successfully       
defended ,italy against them2 and when  
these desperate amazons found that they 
were overpowered1 they slew themselves  
and their children rather than          
surrender4 ,this occurred #aja years    
anterior to the birth of our ,saviour1  
and from that period scarcely a century 
has passed in which history does not    
record many instances of heroic devotion
 of ,frenchwomen1 often wrong in its    
object1 but ever displaying a determined
 courage1 reckless of all selfish       

consideration4 ,the names of ,joan of   
,arc1 ,jeanne ,hachette1 ,charlotte     
,corday1 and the ,chevalier d',eon are  
known to all1 and hundreds of others    
must live in the memory of those who are
 familiar with the history of ,france4  
,after numerous encounters between the  
,romans and the ,gauls1 the latter were 
at length wholly subdued about #ej years
 before ,christ1 and although the       
records of this ancient people date     
nearly as far back as the foundation of 
,rome1 yet our first accounts of ,paris 
are derived from ,caesar and ,strabo1   
who allude to it under the name of      
,lutetia1 the principal city of the     
,parisii2 and from the most probable    
statements which could be collected from
 aged persons at that period1 it is     
presumed that its foundation must have  
occurred not more than half a century   
antecedent4 ,it is supposed that the    
ground which ,paris now occupies        
formerly consisted of a number of small 
hills1 which in the process of time1    

building1 paving1 etc41 have been       
somewhat reduced1 by the summits having 
been in a degree levelled2 and the      
houses upon them being generally not so 
high as those in the lower parts1 the   
eminences are not now so apparent4      
,these hillocks were called by the      
,french buttes1 and some of them are    
still very perceptible1 such as in the  
rue des ,saints-,peres1 by the rue      
,st-,guillaume1 the rue ,meslay1 the rue
 de l',observance1 near the ,ecole de   
,medecine1 and several other places2    
indeed1 on each side of the ,seine      
,paris rises as you proceed to the      
,faubourgs4 ,some of these little hills 
still bear the name of butte1 as les    
,buttes ,st-,chaumont1 la rue des       
,buttes1 etc41 but the most ancient part
 of ,paris is that which is now termed  
,la ,cite and is confined to an island  
formed by the ,seine1 and which is      
joined to the opposite banks by the     
,pont-,neuf 7or ,new-,bridge71 but      
certainly no longer meriting that title1

 having been built in the reign of      
,henry the ,third about the year #aehj4 
,there are many histories of ,paris     
which have been handed down by oral     
record to some of the earliest authors  
amongst the ,gauls1 but so ill          
authenticated that they do not merit    
repetition1 having being reputed as     
fabulous by most writers to whom credit 
can be attached4 ,there is1 however1 one
 account of the foundation of ,paris    
which may be cited more for its comic   
ingenuity than for its veracity1        
beginning by tracing the ,trojans to    
,samothes1 the son of ,japhet and       
grandson of ,noah2 then following in the
 same line1 they endeavour to prove that
 at the destruction of ,troy1 ,francus1 
the son of ,hector1 fled to ,gaul1 of   
which he became king and no doubt       
bestowed upon it the name of ,france1 as
 the ,french have a most happy knack of 
cutting off the us at the end of names  
as1 ,titus ,livius and ,quintus ,curtius
 they have metamorphosed into           

,tite-,live and ,quinte-,curce1 and in  
fact with one or two exceptions they    
have abbreviated the terminations of the
 ancient ,greek and ,roman appellations 
entirely according to their own fashion4
 ,this fortunate youth1 ,francus1 at    
length fixed his abode in ,champagne1   
and built the town of ,troyes1 calling  
it after his native place1 which having 
accomplished1 he repaired to the borders
 of the ,seine and ever partial to      
,trojan associations1 built a city which
 he called ,paris after his uncle4      
,however agreeable it may prove to the  
feelings of the ,parisians to trace     
their origin to the remotest antiquity1 
yet common sense suggests that the      
account of the foundation of their city 
which is the most rational1 is that     
which is deduced from the ,commentaries 
of ,julius ,caesar1 he having been at   
some pains to ascertain from whence the 
,parisii sprung1 and was informed by    
persons who remembered the epoch1 that  
they were a people who had emigrated    

from their native country in consequence
 of the persecutions and massacres of   
their enemies1 and that they were       
supposed to have belonged to some of the
 petty nations known under the common   
appellation of the ,belgae1 and arriving
 on the borders of the ,seine requested 
permission of the ,senones1 a powerful  
people of the ,gauls1 to establish      
themselves on the frontiers of their    
territory1 and place themselves under   
their protection1 agreeing at the same  
time to conform to the laws of those    
whose hospitality they sought4 ,that    
they were but a very inconsiderable     
people on the arrival of ,caesar is     
proved by the small contingent of       
warriors they were required to supply by
 the ,gauls1 in their struggles against 
the ,romans4 ,the territory accorded to 
the ,parisii could not have exceeded    
more than ten or twelve leagues1        
adjoining to the lands of a people      
termed ,silvanectes on the one side1 and
 to those of the ,carnutes on the other4

 ,it is conjectured that the name of    
,parisii received its etymology from    
their being a people who inhabited the  
borders1 as ,par and ,bar are synonymous
 from the ,p and the ,b having had the  
same signification1 and which are often 
confused together at the present time by
 the ,germans2 and ,barisii or          
,barrisenses1 signifying a people       
inhabiting a space between other        
nations1 hence it is inferred that the  
,parisii received that appellation from 
their occupying a spot on the frontiers 
of the ,senones1 separating them from   
the ,silvanectes and the ,carnutes4     
,amongst the many suppositions which    
have been formed as to the origin of the
 name of the ,parisii1 perhaps the above
 is the most rational4 ,paris1 or       
,lutetia1 soon after the conquest by    
,caesar became a place of importance1 as
 he selected that city for a convocation
 of the different powers of ,gaul when  
he required of them supplies for his    
cavalry2 and a short time after1 when   

the ,gallic nation revolted from        
,caesar's dominion1 one of the most     
decided battles which was fought was    
within sight of ,paris1 under ,labienus1
 the ,roman general1 whilst the chief of
 the ,gauls1 ,camulogene1 perished in   
the combat with a considerable portion  
of his men1 but the greater number saved
 themselves by taking shelter in ,paris1
 which was not attacked1 ,labienus      
himself retreating to ,agedineum4 ,but  
although ,caesar fixed upon ,paris as   
the most convenient locality for the    
meeting of the ,gallic chiefs1 yet it   
was little more than a fort like all the
 other towns in ,gaul1 into which the   
natives retreated in the time of war    
with their females1 children1 cattle and
 moveables2 as they were accustomed in  
time of peace to live in detached       
habitation in the midst of their flocks1
 their pastures and their cornfields1   
only retreating within their forts or   
cities for security when attacked4      
,after the fall of ,camulogene1 ,gaul   

soon returned to the ,roman yoke and    
,paris subsequently became the residence
 of their prefects1 governors and even  
emperors4 ,in #ahah1 in digging deeply  
in the streets of ,monceau and ,martroi1
 near the church of ,saint ,gervais1 an 
ancient cemetery was discovered4 ,in one
 of the tombs was found a silver medal1 
in which a head was visible on one side1
 and a head crowned on the other1 having
 this inscription1 ,antonius ,pius      
,aug41 who reigned from the years #ach  
to #afa4 ,it is inferred from this      
circumstance1 that the burying-place was
 of coeval antiquity1 but               
notwithstanding the many battles which  
occurred between the ,gauls and the     
,romans1 ,paris is not cited in history 
until the fourth century1 when ,julian  
the ,apostate appears to have there     
fixed his residence1 and in his         
,misopogon1 which he wrote during his   
residence at ,antioch1 often alludes to 
it under the name of his dear ,lutetia1 
although complaining that the cold was  

such during one winter as to compel him 
to have a fire in his bed-room1         
expressing much dissatisfaction at the  
odour emitted by the burning charcoal1  
to the effects of which he was nearly   
falling a victim4 ,his abode was what it
 is now and has been for many ages1 the 
,palace of ,thermes1 of which there are 
still the remains1 now converted into a 
museum for relics of the ,ancient       
,gauls2 the entrance is in the ,rue de  
la ,harpe4 ,between the numbers #fa and 
#fe4 ,julian there resided with his wife
 ,helen1 sister of the emperor          
,constantius1 and in his address to the 
senate and people of ,athens speaks of  
the arrival of foreign auxiliary troops 
at ,paris1 and of their tumultuously    
rising and surrounding his palace2 and  
that it was in a chamber adjoining that 
of his wife wherein he meditated on the 
means of appeasing them4 ,according to  
various historians1 this circumstance   
occurred in the year #cfj4 ,soon after  
this period1 the same palace was        

inhabited by the ,emperors ,valentinian 
and ,valens4 ,it is supposed to have    
been built in the year #bib1 the        
evidence of which is tolerably well     
authenticated4 ,whatever errors might   
fall to the share of ,julian1 it is     
certain he rendered great service to    
,gaul1 and particularly to ,paris3 he   
cleared the adjacent country entirely of
 a set of ferocious barbarians1 who were
 eternally overrunning the different    
states of ,gaul4 ,but the ,parisians    
were not long doomed to enjoy the quiet 
and prosperity which had been obtained  
for them by the equitable laws          
instituted by ,julian4 ,in #djf1 hordes 
of enemies suddenly appeared in all     
parts of ,gaul1 swarming in from        
different barbarous nations1 in such    
numbers that they swept all before them 
for ten successive years1 and about #dfe
 the ,franks succeeded in permanently   
establishing themselves in ,gaul1 and of
 course ,paris shared the fate of the   
surrounding country2 by them at length  

the ,roman government was overthrown1   
and that which was substituted was far  
less equitable or calculated for the    
happiness of the people4  ,the ,franks  
were a powerful maritime people1 coming 
from the north-west of ,germany1        
obtaining possession of the different   
towns which they met with in their      
course1 until they arrived at ,tournai1 
which was constituted their capital2 and
 ,childeric their king is reported to   
have laid siege to ,paris1 which        
resisted for several years2 but dying in
 the year #dha1 he was succeeded by     
,clovis his son1 who1 at the head of a  
numerous army defeated the ,roman       
governor ,seyagrius1 gained possession  
of his capital1 and was styled the first
 ,king of ,gaul4 ,many authors assert   
that ,pharamond was the first monarch   
who reigned over the ,gallic states1 but
 ,lidonius ,appolinarus1 who wrote only 
fifty years after the death of          
,pharamond persists that he and his     
three successors1 who were all          

predecessors of ,clovis1 were only kings
 reigning over a portion of ,gaul1 and  
resigned their sovereignties at the     
retirement of the ,romans4 ,clovis was  
celebrated as one of the greatest       
warriors of the period in which he      
lived2 in the year #ejj he slew ,alaric 
,king of the ,visigoths in single combat
 in the plain of ,vouille1 near ,poitou1
 and afterwards several other petty     
kings1 thereby adding considerably to   
his dominions4 ,in #ejh he fixed his    
residence in ,paris1 and died there in  
#eaa1 and was buried in a church called 
,st4 ,peter and ,st4 ,paul1 since styled
 ,st4 ,genevieve4 ,he was called the    
,most ,christian ,king4 ,the ,pope      
having no confidence in the professions 
of any other monarch at that time1      
,clovis is synonymous with the name of  
,louis1 as the latter was formerly      
written ,llouis1 the double l signifying
 in the ,celtic language cl1 and        
pronounced in that manner at present in 
,welsh1 as ,llandovery1 ,llandilo1 etc41

 have the sound of ,clandovery1         
,clandilo1 etc41 whilst the v in ,clovis
 has in more modern times been          
transformed into a u1 as in all old     
writings the u and the v had the same   
signification2 hence it will be found   
that ,clovis and ,llouis are the same   
word4 ,his government being divided     
amongst his four sons1 ,childebert      
received the portion in which ,paris was
 situated1 and was styled ,king of      
,paris1 which was only retained by a few
 of his successors1 who assumed that of 
,king of ,gaul1 or of ,france4 ,the     
power of the monarch at that period was 
much restrained1 by a class of men      
called ,leudes1 ,anstrutions1 or        
faithful1 being companions in arms of   
the king1 and sharing with him whatever 
lands or booty might be gained by       
conquest4 ,as a proof of the tenacity of
 these gentry as to an equitable        
division of the spoil1 when ,clovis had 
taken ,rheims1 he demanded as an act of 
grace from his companions in arms1 that 

they would grant him a precious vase for
 which he had conceived a peculiar      
predilection2 his request was accorded  
by his associates1 except one1 who gave 
the vase a violent blow with his        
hatchet1 saying1 ,no1 thou shalt not    
have any thing beyond what thy lot      
awards thee4 ,even under the dominion of
 the ,romans there were dukes who had a 
certain number of troops or armed men in
 the district where they governed1 and  
their power was arbitrary and they had  
counts under them who also had a certain
 number of men subjected to their       
orders2 sometimes these nobles carried  
rapine1 pillage and slaughter into each 
other's territories1 when the government
 had devolved upon the ,franks2 and the 
king took no notice of their misdeeds1  
as long as they observed a certain      
fealty towards him1 and in some         
instances they put aside the monarch if 
he acted in such a manner as to trench  
upon what they considered their         
privileges4 ,a third power soon began to

 assume a high authority1 which         
consisted of the bishops1 who had       
greatly aided the ,francs in their      
invasion of ,gaul by their influence and
 intrigues1 and obtained as reward      
considerable grants of lands and        
temporal power2 and in their dioceses   
they exercised a sovereign will1 and on 
account of their possessing some        
instruction they maintained a certain   
influence over the ignorant nobility who
 had in some degree a sort of           
superstitious awe of them1 as they were 
regarded as the emissaries of saints4   
,under the ,romans the ,gauls were      
considered a moral people1 having become
 ,christians in consequence of the      
persevering endeavours of the missionary
 prelates1 whilst churches were founded 
and a purity of faith disseminated2     
taught by the ,romans1 a love of the    
arts and sciences was engendered amongst
 the ,gauls1 and much talent was        
elicited from them1 philosophy1 physic1 
mathematics1 jurisprudence1 poetry1 and 

above all eloquence1 had their          
respective professors of no mean        
abilities from amongst the natives2 one 
named ,julius ,florens is styled by     
,quintilian the ,prince of ,eloquence4  
,in fact a brilliant era appeared as if 
beginning to dawn throughout the greater
 portion of ,gaul1 academies were       
establishing1 learning was revered1 when
 suddenly every spark of refinement and 
civilisation was banished1 by the       
successful aggression and permanent     
occupation of the country by hordes of  
barbarians2 the natives being obliged to
 have recourse to arms for their defence
 against the common enemy1 and the      
constant excitement of continued        
hostility with their ferocious          
oppressors1 afforded no time for study  
nor cultivation of the arts4 ,clovis1   
however1 during his reign improved      
,paris1 and was converted to            
christianity by ,st4 ,vedast4 ,clotilda1
 his wife1 and niece to ,gondebaud1 king
 of ,burgundy1 was principally          

instrumental to the conversion of her   
husband4 ,indeed1 amidst their ferocity 
and barbarism some of the early ,frank  
kings showed much respect for religion  
and morality1 as is proved by an        
ordonnance of ,childebert in the year   
#eed2 commanding his subjects to destroy
 wherever they might be found all idols 
dedicated to the devil2 also forbidding 
all disorderly conduct committed in the 
nights of the eves of fetes1 such as    
,christmas and ,easter1 when singing1   
drinking1 and other excesses were       
committed2 women were also ordered to   
discontinue going about the country     
dancing on a ,sunday1 as it was a       
practice offensive to ,god4 ,it appears 
certainly very singular that a          
comparatively barbarous king in the     
sixth century should prohibit dancing of
 a ,sunday as a desecration of the      
,sabbath1 and that in the nineteenth    
century there should be more dancing on 
a ,sunday than on any other day in the  
week1 at a period which is arrived at   

the highest state of civilisation1 and  
under the reign of a most enlightened   
monarch4 ,but although ,clovis and      
,childebert displayed much enthusiasm in
 the cause of christianity1 their career
 was marked with every cruelty          
incidental to conquest1 as wherever they
 bore their victorious arms1 murder1    
rapine1 and robbery stained their       
diabolical course2 but they thought that
 they expiated their crimes by building 
churches4 ,hence ,clovis in #ejh founded
 the first erected in ,paris dedicated  
to ,st4 ,peter and ,st4 ,paul1          
afterwards called ,st4 ,genevieve1 and  
on its site now stands the ,pantheon4   
,childebert in #eeh built the church of 
,st4 ,germain des ,pres1 which is still 
standing and much frequented2 it was at 
first called ,st4 ,vincent and ,st4     
,croix1 and he endowed it so richly with
 the treasures he had stolen from other 
countries1 that it was called the golden
 palace of ,st4 ,germain4 ,chilperic    
imitating his predecessors1 hoping to   

absolve himself of his enormous crimes1 
in the year #fjf founded the very       
interesting and curious church of ,st4  
,germain1 opposite the ,louvre1 and     
still an object of admiration to the    
lover of antiquity4 ,his wife           
,fredegonde1 imagining no doubt by that 
act he had made his peace for the other 
world1 thought that the sooner he went  
there the better1 before he committed   
any farther sins1 and had him           
assassinated that she might the more    
conveniently pursue her own course of   
iniquity2 perhaps never was the page of 
history blackened by such a list of     
atrocities committed by woman as those  
perpetrated by her and her rival ,queen 
,brunehault1 who was ultimately tied to 
the tail of a wild horse and torn to    
pieces in #fac4 ,paris1 however1        
notwithstanding the wickedness1         
injustice1 and cruelty of its rulers1   
continued to increase1 and would no     
doubt have become a prosperous city1 had
 it not been for the incursions of the  

,normands1 who in the ninth century     
entered ,paris1 burnt some of the       
churches1 and meeting with scarcely any 
resistance1 made themselves masters of  
all they could find1 whilst the ,emperor
 ,charles the ,bald1 at the head of an  
army1 had the pusillanimity to treat    
with them1 and finally to give them     
seven thousand pounds of silver to quit 
,paris1 which was only an encouragement 
for them to return1 which they did in a 
few years after1 carrying devastation   
wherever they appeared1 the poor        
citizens of ,paris being obliged to save
 their lives by flight1 leaving all     
their property to the mercy of the      
brigands4 ,at length1 the ,parisians    
finding that there was no security      
either for themselves or their          
possessions1 prevailed on ,charles the  
,bald to give the requisite orders for  
fortifying the city1 which was so far   
accomplished that it resisted the       
attacks of the ,normans for thirteen    
months1 who as constantly laid siege to 

the grand tower which was its principal 
defence1 without being able to take it2 
when at last ,charles the ,fat in #hhg  
proved as weak as his predecessors1 and 
although he was encamped with his army  
at ,montmartre1 consented to give the   
barbarians fourteen thousand marks of   
silver to get rid of them1 and they     
quitted ,paris to go and pillage other  
parts of ,france1 but as by the treaty  
they were not allowed to pass the       
bridges1 in order to ascend the ,seine  
they were obliged to carry their vessels
 over the land for about two thousand   
yards and again launch them for the     
purpose of committing farther           
depredations4 ,from this period ,paris  
was freed from the attacks of the the   
,normans1 yet commerce made but slow    
progress having constant obstructions   
arising1 to impede its prosperity4      
,paris having for a long time ceased to 
be the royal residence1 was no longer   
considered as the capital1 ,charlemagne 
passed but a very short period of time  

there1 residing mostly at               
,aix-la-,chapelle and ,ratisbon1 and    
although he founded many noble          
institutions in different parts of      
,france1 ,paris derived but little      
benefit from his talents1 and his       
immediate successors displayed such     
imbecility of purpose that they suffered
 their kingdom to become the prey to    
marauders4 ,learning advanced but       
slowly1 although there were some schools
 at ,paris which1 elicited a few        
authors2 amongst the rest one named     
,abbon1 who wrote a poem in latin upon  
the siege of ,paris by the ,normans1    
which was not otherwise other-worthy of 
remark than for its rarity at the epoch 
when it was written4 ,whilst the kings  
of ,france continued to reside in other 
cities1 ,paris was confided to the      
governments ,counts1 who held not a very
 high rank amongst the nobility in the  
first instance1 but gradually increased 
their power until ,eudes1 ,count of     
,paris1 in #ibb ultimately became ,king 

of ,france1 which also was the destiny  
of two other nobles who held the same   
title1 ,robert the brother of ,eudes1   
and ,hugh ,capet4  ,the progress of     
,paris and indeed the whole of ,france  
was retarded continually by famine1     
fourteen seasons of scarcity happening  
in the course of twenty-three years2 in 
fact1 from #hdc to #hii such was often  
the state of desolation1 that hunger    
impelled human beings to murder each    
other to feed upon the flesh of their   
bodies1 which in many instances were    
sold1 and bought with eagerness by those
 who were famishing with want4          
,unwholesome food caused thousands to be
 afflicted with a disease which was     
called the sacred fire1 the ardent      
malady1 and the infernal evil1 the      
sufferers feeling as if they were       
devoured by an internal flame4 ,to give 
some idea of the luxury of costume which
 existed in those days at ,paris1 it is 
but requisite to quote an address of    
,abbon the poet to the ,parisians1      

written about the year #hij1 wherein hen
 observes3 ,an agraffe 7a clasp7 of gold
 fastens the upper part of your dress2  
to keep off the cold you cover          
yourselves with the purple of ,tyre1 you
 will have no other cloak than a        
chlamyde embroidered with gold1 your    
girdle must be ornamented with precious 
stones1 and gold must sparkle even upon 
your shoes1 and on the cane which you   
carry4 ,o ,france6 if you do not abandon
 such luxurious extravagance1 you will  
lose your courage and your country4     
,hugh ,capet1 who became king of ,france
 in #ihg1 fixed his residence at ,paris1
 thus again constituting it the capital 
of the kingdom1 and his son and         
successor ,robert1 being a strict       
devotee1 built and repaired several     
churches which had been greatly injured 
by the ,normans1 and ,paris began in his
 reign to assume an appearance of       
improvement1 which continued until it   
received a check from an ill-timed joke 
of ,philippe the ,first1 who made a     

satirical remark upon ,william the      
,conqueror of ,england having become    
rather unwieldy1 which so provoked that 
choleric monarch that he laid waste a   
great portion of ,philippe's dominions2 
when his progress was checked by his    
falling from his horse1 which occasioned
 his death and thus delivered ,philippe 
from a most powerful enemy4 ,in the     
following reign1 that of ,lewis the     
,fat1 learning began to make            
considerable progress1 and the colleges 
of ,paris to acquire a high celebrity1  
and amongst the professors whose        
reputation was of the highest1 was      
,abelard1 no one before having succeeded
 in attracting so many pupils4 ,in #aaah
 he established a school in ,paris1 but 
from a variety of persecutions which he 
endured1 he was frequently obliged to   
retire to different parts of ,france2   
his unfortunate attachment to ,heloise  
is but too well known1 and she          
ultimately became the abbess of a       
convent which ,abelard founded at       

,nogent-sur-,seine1 and which he called 
,paraclet4 ,the number of pupils at one 
time are stated to have been three      
thousand1 and he instructed them in the 
open air2 it is also asserted that of   
his followers fifty became either       
bishops or archbishops1 twenty          
cardinals1 and one pope1 ,celestin ,,ii4
 ,in fact the fame of ,abelard had      
arrived at such an altitude that he was 
the means of giving a new era to ,paris1
 which was designated the city of       
letters2 other professors became highly 
celebrated1 and some authors pretend    
that the immense concourse of students  
who ultimately flocked to ,paris1       
exceeded the number of the inhabitants1 
and there was much difficulty in finding
 the means of lodging them2 how great   
must have been the anxiety for learning1
 as the masters were exceedingly brutal 
and imparted their knowledge to the     
pupil by the force of blows1 which at   
length deterred many students from      
placing themselves under the charge of  

such preceptors4 ,this extraordinary    
desire for obtaining education appears  
to have been almost a sudden impulse1 as
 the immediate descendants of ,hugh     
,capet could not read or write1 but were
 obliged to make a mark as the signature
 to their edicts1 whilst those who      
possessed that accomplishment were      
styled clerks4 ,although much brilliance
 was shed over the reign of ,louis the  
,sixth by the learning of ,abelard and  
the professors who followed him1 yet    
soon after the barbarous custom was     
introduced of trial by combat2 the idea 
might probably have been suggested by   
,louis having challenged ,henry the     
,first of ,england to decide their      
differences in a single encounter4      
,although ,lewis the ,fat was so bulky  
as to have obtained the cognomen by     
which he was always designated1 he was  
one of the most active kings of ,france2
 constantly harrassed by perpetual wars 
with his neighbours and nobles1 which he
 carried on personally and generally    

successfully1 he first undertook the    
fortifying of ,paris and is supposed to 
have constructed the greater and the    
lesser ,chatelet1 two towers on the     
opposite sides of the ,seine1 although  
many authors pretend that they were of a
 much more ancient date2 he also built  
walls round a certain portion of the    
suburbs1 which by that time had become  
part of ,paris4 ,it was said of ,lewis  
,,vi1 ,he might have been a better king1
 a better man he could not4 ,he died in 
#aacg4  ,in the succeeding reign of     
,louis ,,vii1 surnamed the ,younger1    
many privileges were granted to the     
,parisians which greatly increased the  
prosperity of the city2 several public  
buildings were erected1 amongst the rest
 an hospital which was the first ever   
built in ,paris4 ,but according to the  
descriptions of all authors who wrote at
 that period upon the subject1 the      
streets were in a filthy condition in   
many parts of the city1 and the names   
which have long since been changed were 

as dirty and indecent2 some were        
absolutely ridiculous2 as ,did you find 
me ,hard1 ,bertrand ,sleeps1 ,cut       
,bread1 ,john ,bread ,calf 7alluding to 
the leg72 the last still exists1 as also
 ,bad ,advice1 ,bad ,boys1 etc4 ,it was 
in this reign that the first crusade    
from ,france took place1 and ,louis     
,,vii was followed by #bjj1jjj persons1 
and after various encounters with the   
,saracens1 he owed his preservation to  
his own personal prowess2 he was        
divorced from his ,queen ,eleanor1 who  
afterwards married ,henry ,,ii of       
,england1 and proved herself a          
detestable character in both kingdoms4  
,louis ,,vii abolished one law which had
 long disgraced ,france1 allowing the   
officers of the ,king on his arrival in 
,paris or other towns in his dominions1 
to enter any private house and take for 
the monarch's use such bedding or other 
articles of furniture as his ,majesty   
might require4 ,louis also by force of  
arms compelled his nobles to desist from

 robbing the merchants1 dealers1 and the
 poor of their property4 ,at this period
 the ,fete des ,fous1 or feast of madmen
 was celebrated to its full extent1 and 
anything more absurd1 more farcical1 or 
more irreverential cannot well be       
imagined4 ,dulaure1 in his voluminous   
,history of ,paris1 gives a most        
detailed account of this extraordinary  
mockery1 of which ,i will give my       
readers a very brief abridgment4  ,on   
the first of ,january the clergy went in
 procession to the bishop who had been  
elected as the grand master of the fete1
 conducting him solemnly to the church  
with all the ecclesiastical banners     
usually borne on important occasions1   
amidst the ringing of bells2 when       
arrived at the choir1 he was placed in  
the episcopal seat1 and mass was        
performed with the most extravagant     
gesticulations4 ,the priests figuring   
away in the most ridiculous dresses2    
some in the costume of buffoons1 others 
in female attire with their faces daubed

 with soot1 or covered with hideous     
masks1 some dancing1 others jumping1 or 
playing different games1 drinking1 and  
eating puddings1 sausages1 etc41        
offering them to the high-priest whilst 
he was celebrating high mass2 also      
burning old shoes in the chalice1       
instead of incense1 to produce a        
disagreeable scent2 at length1 elevated 
by wine1 their orgies began to have the 
appearance of those of demons1 roaring1 
howling1 singing1 and laughing until the
 walls of the church echoed with their  
yells4 ,this was often carried on until 
they worked themselves up to a pitch of 
madness1 and then they began boxing each
 other until the floor of the church    
would be smeared with blood2 upon which 
most severe expiations were exacted from
 them2 as1 however1 much has been shed  
in the cause of the church1 it was not  
to be permitted that the holy sanctuary 
should ever be stained with aught so    
impure4 ,the ecclesiastics at last      
quitting the church1 got into carts     

filled with mud and filth1 amusing      
themselves with flinging it upon the    
crowds who followed them in such streets
 as were wide enough for a cart to pass4
 ,it is conjectured that these          
festivities1 with their nonsensical     
ceremonies1 were of pagan origin1 and   
probably the celebration of the         
,carnival is derived from the same      
source2 many attempts were made to      
abolish so disgraceful a custom as the  
continuance of the ,fetes des ,fous1    
with the absurdities incidental to its  
revelries1 but it was not until the     
,parisians became more enlightened that 
any monarch could succeed in its entire 
suppression4  ,in #aahj ,philippe       
,auguste succeeded his father1 and did  
more for ,paris than all the works of   
his predecessors united2 he             
reconstructed ,notre ,dame1 and made it 
such as it now is with respect to the   
grand body of the building2 but the     
variety of little chapels contained     
within it1 and the elaborate            

workmanship1 with the bas1 mezzo and    
alto relievos with which it abounds1    
occupied two centuries4 ,on the exterior
 of the building on the south side1     
about three feet and a half from the    
ground1 is an inscription in raised     
letters nearly two inches long1 and the 
date being perfectly distinct is #abeg  
written thus1 ,,mcclvii4 ,the two last  
characters have dropped1 but the        
impression of them is clearly visible2  
the inscription itself is difficult to  
decypher1 it is in ,latin1 and some of  
the letters are missing1 others so      
curiously formed as to render them      
doubtful exactly as to their import4    
,the greater part of the characters are 
,roman1 the others resemble more the    
,saxon1 yet are not quite so2 at all    
events ,i recommend the inscription to  
the attention of the curious4 ,a vast   
space1 which is now covered with        
streets1 commencing at the ,rue des     
,saints ,peres1 and extending to the    
,invalids1 consisted entirely of        

meadows1 and was called the ,pre aux    
,clercs1 or the ,clerks' ,field1 from   
the students and a number of young men  
who possessed some education1 usually   
enjoying their recreations in this spot1
 but certainly not in the most innocent 
manner1 in fact1 the disorders committed
 in this privileged piece of ground1    
which the students considered as their  
own1 were such as to be often named in  
history1 and to have formed the subject 
of a favourite ,melo ,drama2 it retained
 its character as being the scene of    
turbulence and disorder even to the time
 of ,louis ,,xiv4  ,amongst other useful
 undertakings effected by ,philippe     
,auguste was that of establishing       
markets with covered stalls1 and he it  
was that first conceived the idea of    
paving ,paris1 which he partially       
effected1 and surrounded the town with a
 wall1 part of which is still standing  
in the ,rue ,clovis4 ,paris increased   
and flourished under his reign2 he in   
fact did all that was possible to       

augment its prosperity1 and amongst     
other measures he granted the utmost    
protection in his power to the students1
 knowing that the more the population of
 the city increased1 the more           
flourishing was its condition2 by such  
means he induced scholars to come in    
numbers from the most distant parts to  
study in the colleges of ,paris1 two of 
which he erected1 as well as three      
hospitals2 he also instituted many good 
laws1 which protected the tradespeople  
and repressed the robberies and         
extortions of the nobles4 ,but ,paris   
was still subject to calamities1 a flood
 having occurred from the overflowing of
 the ,seine1 which reached as high as   
the second floor windows of some houses4
 ,a great part of ,paris was occupied   
with monasteries and convents1 which    
with their gardens covered an immense   
space2 in the course of time1 however1  
the monks found it advantageous to      
dispose of their lands for the purpose  
of building dwelling-houses1 and in the 

,revolution numbers were suppressed2 and
 in some quarters of the city there are 
warehouses in the occupation of         
different tradesmen1 which formerly     
formed part of the old monasteries4     
,many of the streets by their names     
still indicate the order of the convents
 by which they were occupied1 as the    
,rue ,blanc ,manteaux 7,white ,cloaks71 
,rue des ,saints ,peres 7,holy          
,fathers71 ,filles de ,dieu 7,daughters 
of ,god71 which now is one of the       
narrowest and dirtiest streets in       
,paris1 and inhabited by daughters of a 
very different description4 ,such are   
the extraordinary changes which time    
effects4 ,philippe ,auguste dying in    
#abbc1 was succeeded by his son ,louis  
,,viii1 surnamed the ,lion1 whose short 
reign of four years was occupied by war1
 leaving no leisure for effecting any   
great improvement in ,paris2 but under  
his successor ,lewis ,,ix1 styled       
,saint-,louis1 much was effected1       
although his efforts were principally   

directed towards the erection of        
religious institutions1 being much under
 the dominion of the priests1 and       
naturally possessing a fanatic zeal4    
,churches at that period were too often 
but monuments of superstition for the   
celebration of mummery1 for sheltering  
criminals1 receptacles for pretended    
relics1 and in fact instruments for     
maintaining the power of priestcraft4   
,this same ,saint ,louis1 so lauded by  
some authors1 had some excellent notions
 of his own1 and was very fond of       
practising summary justice1 recommending
 to his nobles that whenever they met   
with any one who expressed any doubts   
regarding the ,christian religion1 never
 to argue with the sceptist1 but        
immediately plunge their swords into his
 body4  ,rhetoric at this period was a  
study much followed and admired1 but the
 logic of ,saint-,louis1 ,i suspect1 was
 the most forcible and best calculated  
to remove all doubts1 having a great    
objection to language that was what some

 persons would style far too energetic2 
where an oath was suffered to escape1 he
 ordered the intemperate orator's tongue
 to be pierced with a hot iron and his  
lips burnt2 hence many of his subjects  
were compelled to endure that operation2
 but this was considered in those days  
all very saint-like4 ,they had strange  
ideas in some instances1 in days of     
yore1 according to our present notion of
 words and things4 ,louis the ,first1   
surnamed the ,debonnaire 7the gentle71  
had his nephew ,bernard's eyes bored    
out2 this act was certainly very like a 
gentle man4 ,hugh the ,great1 so called 
on account of his splendid virtues1 in  
the year #ajad thought it proper that he
 should be present at the burning of a  
few heretics1 and his lady1 with her    
ardent religious zeal1 stepped forward  
and poked out the eye of her confessor1 
who was one of the victims1 with her    
walking cane1 before he was committed to
 the flames4 ,louis however had some    
redeeming qualities2 he founded the     

,hospital of the ,quinze-,vingts1 which 
still exists2 he also enlarged and      
improved the ,hotel ,dieu1 the principal
 hospital in those days1 in which he    
even exceeded the munificence of his    
predecessor1 ,philippe ,auguste1 who    
published an ordonnance commanding that 
all the straw which had been used in his
 chamber should be given to the ,hotel  
,dieu1 whenever he quitted ,paris and no
 longer wanted it2 such overpowering    
kindness one would imagine must have had
 the effect of curing some of the       
invalids who were capable of            
appreciating the high honour conferred  
upon them1 in being suffered to lie upon
 straw which had been trodden by royal  
feet4 ,saint ,louis also founded the    
celebrated ,college of the ,sorbonne1   
which is still existing1 and maintains a
 high character2 he also built the      
curious and interesting chapel adjoining
 the ,palais de ,justice1 which is well 
worth the amateur's attention2 he       
founded the ,hospital of ,les ,filles de

 ,dieu1 for the purpose of reclaiming   
women of improper conduct4 ,the         
,mendicant ,monks1 the ,augustines1 and 
the ,carmes were established in ,france 
during his reign1 and he founded the    
convents of the ,beguines1 ,mathurins1  
,jacobins1 ,carthusians1 ,cordeliers1   
and several others of minor importance1 
in ,paris1 with the chapels attached to 
them2 besides different churches with   
which ,i shall not tire my reader with  
recapitulating1 as there are none of    
them now standing1 except the chapel    
belonging to the ,palais de ,justice2 he
 also added several fountains1          
contributing to the comforts of the     
,parisians1 as well as embellishing     
their city4 ,the number of churches     
which have been demolished in ,paris    
within the last fifty years1 exceeds the
 number of those which are now standing1
 many of them during the ,revolution1   
which might have been expected2 but an  
equal number under the ,restoration in  
the reigns of ,louis the ,eighteenth and

 ,charles the ,tenth1 who being rather  
devotees1 one would have imagined might 
have been induced to repair and preserve
 all religious monuments1 also highly   
interesting as specimens of the         
architecture of the different ages in   
which they were founded4 ,louis         
,philippe has better kept up the spirit 
of the restoration in having rescued    
from demolition the ancient and         
beautiful church of ,st ,germain        
l',auxerrois2 which was to have been    
pulled down to make way for a new       
street1 according to the plan projected 
by his predecessor2 instead of which1 it
 has been repaired with the greatest    
judgment1 carefully preserving the      
original style of the building wherever 
ornaments or statues required to be     
renewed4 ,thus this noble edifice has   
been preserved to the public1 which     
would not have been the case had the    
,revolution of the ,three ,days not     
occurred1 as its doom was sealed prior  
to that period4 ,in fact1 since the     

accession to the throne of ,louis       
,philippe1 ,i do not believe that any   
church has been pulled down1 though     
several others have been built1 and     
others finished1 which have greatly     
added to the embellishments of the city4
 ,the memory of ,louis ,,ix has ever    
been cherished as that of a ,saint1 and 
if a man be judged by the number of     
religious establishments he instituted1 
certainly he deserved to be canonised2  
but however grand may be the reputation 
of having founded and erected so many   
public monuments1 yet when it is        
considered that numbers of the inmates  
of the different convents and           
monasteries erected by this ,saint were 
obliged to demand alms from house to    
house1 and of persons passing along the 
streets1 it will be proved that the     
grand result of ,saint ,louis'          
operations was to fill ,paris with      
beggars2 although it certainly must be  
admitted that some of his other acts in 
a great degree compensated for those    

into which he was led by superstition   
and religious fanaticism3 he was        
succeeded by his son ,philippe the ,bold
 in #abgj1 who suffered himself to be   
governed by his favourite1 ,la ,brosse1 
formerly a barber1 in which it must be  
admitted that ,philippe displayed rather
 a barbarous taste1 which ended in his  
pet being hanged2 his reign1 however1   
was signalised by the establishment of a
 ,college of ,surgeons1 who were        
designated by the appellation of        
,surgeons of the ,long ,robe1 whilst the
 barbers were styled ,surgeons of the   
,short ,robe2 he also recalled the      
,jews1 whom his father1 after having    
persecuted in divers manners1 banished  
and confiscated their property2 amongst 
other indignities which were put upon   
them by ,saint ,louis1 was that of      
forcing them to wear a patch of red     
cloth on their garment both before and  
behind1 in the shape of a wheel1 that   
they might be distinguished from        
,christians1 and marked as it were for  

insult4 ,in ,philippe's reign1 however1 
merit found its reward1 no matter how   
low the origin from whence it sprang1   
and several authors1 particularly poets1
 wrote boldly against the extreme       
hypocrisy which existed in the preceding
 reign1 and literature made great       
progress4  ,in #abhe ,philippe the      
,fair1 so named on account of his       
handsome person1 succeeded to the throne
 of his father2 in his ardent thirst for
 money he changed the value of the      
coinage three times1 and caused a riot  
which ended by his hanging twenty-eight 
of the conspirators at the different    
entrances of ,paris1 and had numbers of 
persons accused of crimes in order to   
have them executed that he might obtain 
possession of their property2 thus      
hundreds were burned alive and tortured 
in various manners4 ,one act1 however1  
threw a degree of lustre on his reign1  
and that was the organisation of the    
,parliament at ,paris1 establishing it  
as a sovereign court1 their sittings    

being held in the ,palais de ,justice1  
the residence at that period of the     
kings of ,france4 ,for several          
succeeding reigns ,paris appeared to    
make but little progress2 some churches 
were built as also other establishments1
 but none which are now standing1 except
 some portions of them which may have   
escaped destruction and are now in the  
occupation of different tradespeople4   
,the government became exceedingly poor1
 and several measures were adopted in   
order to repair the finances of the     
state2 amongst others1 that of suffering
 serfs to purchase their emancipation1  
of which many availed themselves1 but   
not sufficient effectually to replenish 
the exhausted treasury4 ,for the same   
reason the property of the ,lombards was
 confiscated1 next recourse was had to  
the ,jews1 and even the exactions       
imposed upon them were inadequate to the
 wants of the nation4 ,the succession of
 several weak kings had brought affairs 
into this state1 when ,philippe the     

,sixth of ,valois crowned the           
misfortunes of the country by entering  
into a war with ,england1 at a time when
 the funds of his kingdom were at the   
lowest ebb2 constantly engaged in       
hostilities1 he had not leisure or the  
means of attending to the welfare of the
 ,parisians1 and the disasters he       
encountered caused his reign to be      
remembered as a series of misfortunes4  
,several colleges1 however1 were founded
 in his reign2 amongst others1 that of  
the ,college des ,ecossais 7,scotch     
,college7 then in the ,rue des          
,amandiers1 but now existing in the ,rue
 des ,fosses ,st4 ,victor4 ,it was first
 instituted by ,david1 ,bishop of       
,murray1 in ,scotland1 but the present  
building was erected by ,robert ,barclay
 in #affb4  ,the ,college des ,lombards 
was founded by a number of ,italians1   
and was some years afterwards deserted1 
but in #afcc was given by the government
 to two ,irish priests1 and has from    
that period become an ,irish seminary2  

and several other colleges1 which have  
either been abandoned or their locality 
changed1 and often united to other      
colleges1 some of which are still       
existing4 ,on the death of ,philippe1   
,john1 surnamed the ,good1 ascended a   
throne of trouble in #acej1 and         
encountered a succession of misfortunes 
of which ,paris had its share2 from the 
immense number of churches1 monasteries1
 colleges1 hospitals1 and other public  
edifices1 the wall which surrounded     
,paris1 built by ,philippe-,auguste1    
enclosed too limited a space to contain 
the houses of the increased population1 
which continued to augment1             
notwithstanding all the impediments     
which bad government could create4 ,a   
more extended wall therefore became     
necessary to protect those inhabitants  
who resided beyond the limits of the    
first1 and whose position was likely to 
be compromised by the position in which 
,france was placed by the battle of     
,poitiers1 by a band of ruffians called 

the ,companions1 who carried desolation 
wherever they appeared1 and by what was 
termed ,la ,jacquerie1 hordes of        
peasants who were armed and levied      
contributions upon the peaceable        
inhabitants as they traversed the       
country1 in groups too numerous to be   
withstood by the tranquil residents4    
,the extension of the wall was erected  
under the superintendence of ,etienne   
,marcel1 called ,prevot des ,marchands2 
what might be termed ,mayor or ,chief   
,magistrate of the tradespeople1 a man  
of extraordinary energy1 which he       
exerted to the utmost for the benefit of
 his fellow citizens1 and at this period
 first began the custom of putting      
chains at night across the streets as a 
measure of security1 as notwithstanding 
that ,paris was menaced on all sides by 
enemies from without1 insurrections of  
the most violent nature took place      
within its walls1 commencing on account 
of the ,dauphin1 who was governor of    
,paris and regent of the kingdom 7in    

consequence of the imprisonment of his  
father ,john in ,england71 issuing a    
coinage consisting of base metal which  
he was compelled to recall2 but the     
fire-brand was kindled1 other grievances
 were mooted1 thirty thousand armed     
,parisians assembled headed by ,etienne 
,marcel1 who himself stabbed ,robert de 
,clermont1 ,marshal of ,normandy1 and   
,jean de ,conflans1 ,marshal of         
,champagne1 in the presence of the      
,dauphin2 but to save the latter from   
the fury of the people1 ,marcel changed 
hats with the ,prince1 thus affording   
him a passport1 by causing him to wear a
 hat that bore the colours of the       
people1 blue and red4 ,after a          
tremendous slaughter1 ,marcel and his   
principal friends were themselves       
dispatched by the partisans of the      
,dauphin4 ,during all these convulsions 
in the interior of ,paris1 it was       
surrounded on one side by the troops of 
the ,king of ,navarre1 whilst the forces
 of the ,dauphin were hovering under the

 walls1 the different parties           
skirmishing with each other1 and all    
living upon the pillage and             
contributions levied on the inhabitants 
of the adjacent country4  ,meantime     
famine thinned the population of ,paris1
 cut off from any means of receiving    
provisions from without2 but on account 
of the wall constructed by ,marcel1     
,edward ,,iii of ,england found it      
impossible to make any progress in the  
siege1 and having exhausted the country 
for some leagues of extent1 was obliged 
to retreat for want of food to maintain 
his army4 ,the scarcity of money was    
such in ,paris at that period1 that they
 were compelled to have a circulation of
 leather coin1 with a little nail of    
gold or silver stuck in the middle2 yet 
when ,john returned from his captivity  
in ,england1 the streets were hung with 
carpets wherever he had to pass1 and a  
cloth of gold borne over his head1 the  
fountains poured forth wine1 and the    
city made him a present of a silver     

buffet weighing a thousand marcs4 ,at   
this period schools existed in ,paris   
sanctioned by the government1 when the  
pay for each scholar was so contemptible
 that they must have been for the use of
 the middle classes1 whose means were   
very confined2 they were called ,petites
 ,ecoles 7,little ,schools71 and paid a 
certain sum for having the privilege to 
teach2 the number in the reign of ,john 
was sixty-three1 of which forty-one were
 under masters1 and twenty-two under    
mistresses4 ,in some of the streets of  
,paris it was the custom to have two    
large doors or gates1 which were closed 
at night1 and the names of several      
streets still bear evidence of that     
practice1 as the ,rue des deux ,portes2 
the ,rue des ,deux-,portes-,saint-,jean1
 des ,deux-,portes-,saint-,sauveur1 etc4
  ,during the reign of ,john1 about     
#acej1 a poem appeared1 which contained 
advice as to the conduct ladies ought to
 observe who wished to act with         
propriety1 and as my fair countrywomen  

are generally willing to listen to good 
counsel1 no matter how remote the period
 from which it is derived1 ,i cannot    
resist giving them the benefit of some  
of the recommendations of the sapient   
poet to the ,parisian belles1 some of   
which are certainly highly commendable4 
,the verses were written by a monk1     
whose name ,i have forgotten4  ,in      
walking to church never trot or run1    
salute those you meet upon the way1 and 
even return the salutations of the poor2
 when at church it is not proper to look
 either to the right or the left1       
neither to speak nor to laugh out loud1 
but to rise to the ,gospel and          
courteously make the sign of the cross1 
to go to the offering without either    
laughing or joking1 at the moment of the
 elevation also to rise2 then kneel and 
pray for all ,christians2 to recite by  
heart her prayers1 and if she can read1 
to pray from her psalmody4  ,a courteous
 lady ought to salute all in going out  
of church1 both great and small4  ,those

 whom nature have endowed with a good   
voice ought not to refuse to sing when  
they are asked4  ,cleanliness is so     
necessary for ladies1 that it is an     
obligation for them to cut their nails4 
,it is not proper for a lady to stop in 
passing the house of a neighbour1 to    
look into the interior1 because people  
may be doing things that they do not    
wish others to know4  ,when you go and  
visit a person1 never enter abruptly1   
nor take any one by surprise1 but       
announce your coming by coughing4  ,at  
table1 a lady should not speak nor laugh
 too much1 and should always turn the   
biggest and the best pieces to her      
guests1 and not choose them for herself4
  ,every time a lady has drank wine she 
should wipe her mouth with the          
table-cloth1 but not her eyes or her    
nose1 and she should take care not to   
soil and grease her fingers in eating1  
more than she can possibly help4 ,the   
reader must remember that forks were not
 used until the reign of ,henry ,,iii4  

,the author also cautions the ladies to 
be very careful not to drink to excess1 
observing that a lady loses talent1 wit1
 beauty1 and every charm1 when she is   
elevated with wine2 they are also       
recommended not to swear4  ,he          
continues3 ,ladies should not veil their
 faces before nobles2 they may do so    
when they are on horseback or when they 
go to church1 but on entering they      
should show their countenances1 and     
particularly before people of quality4  
,ladies should never receive presents   
from gentlemen of jewels or other       
things1 except from a well intentioned  
near relation1 otherwise it is very     
blameable4  ,it is not becoming for     
ladies to wrestle with men1 and they are
 also cautioned not to lie or to steal4 
,then follow certain instructions for   
ladies as to the answers they should    
make and the manner they should conduct 
themselves when they receive a          
declaration4 ,i hope ,english ladies    
will be much edified by the above       

instructions4 ,the cries of ,paris at   
this period were constant and absolutely
 stunning2 ,guillaume de la ,villeneuve 
observes that the criers were braying in
 the streets of ,paris from morning to  
night4 ,amongst the vegetables1 garlick 
was the most prevalent1 which was then  
eaten with almost every thing1 people   
being in the habit of rubbing their     
bread with it3 the flour of peas and    
beans made into a thick paste was sold  
all hot2 onions1 chervil1 turnips1      
aniseed1 leeks1 etc41 a variety of pears
 and apples of sorts that are now       
scarcely known1 except ,calville1       
services1 medlers1 hips and other small 
fruits now no longer heard of2 nuts1    
chesnuts of ,lombardy1 ,malta grapes1   
etc42 for beverage1 wine at about a     
farthing a quart2 mustard vinegar1      
verjuice1 and walnut oil2 pastry1 fresh 
and salted meat1 eggs and honey4 ,others
 went about offering their services to  
mend your clothes1 some to repair your  
tubs1 or polish your pewter2 candles1   

cotton for lamps1 foreign soup1 and     
almost every article that can be        
imagined was sold in the streets1       
sometimes the price demanded was a bit  
of bread4 ,the millers also went bawling
 about to know if you had any corn to   
grind1 and amongst those that demanded  
alms were the scholars1 the monks1 the  
nuns1 the prisoners and the blind4  ,it 
was the custom in those days1 when a    
person wished to be revenged upon       
another1 to make an image of him in wax 
or mud1 as much resembling as possible4 
,they then took it to a priest and had  
it named after the person they wished to
 injure1 with all the ceremonies of the 
church1 and anointed it1 and lastly had 
certain invocations pronounced over the 
unfortunate image4 ,it was then supposed
 that the figure had some degree of     
identity with the prototype1 and any    
injury inflicted upon it would be felt  
by the person they wished to harm2 they 
therefore then set to work to torture it
 according to their fancy1 and at last  

would plunge a sharp instrument into    
that part where the heart should be     
placed1 feeling quite satisfied they had
 wreaked their revenge on their enemy4  
,sometimes persons were severely        
punished for the performance of this    
farce1 and when any individuals         
experienced some great misfortune1 they 
often imagined that it had arisen in    
consequence of their image having been  
made by their enemy1 and maltreated in  
the manner described4  ,when ,charles ,v
 ascended the throne in #acfd1 he soon  
began to display his taste for          
civilisation by collecting books to form
 a library in the ,louvre1 and rewarding
 merit1 however humble the station of   
the individual by whom it was possessed2
 and although he received the reins of  
government at a period when ,france was 
surrounded with enemies1 and her        
finances in a ruined state1 such was the
 prudence of his measures that he       
completely retrieved her losses1 and    
well earned the appellation he received 

of ,charles the ,wise2 he built several 
churches1 colleges1 and hotels1 none of 
which if standing are now appropriated  
to the purposes originally intended2 he 
also had several bridges constructed1   
and embellished ,paris with many        
edifices that were both useful and      
ornamental4 ,but all his efforts were   
paralysed in the following reign of     
,charles ,,vi1 justly called the        
,simple1 partly mad1 partly imbecile1   
and coming to the throne at twelve years
 of age1 every misfortune that might    
have been expected from a country       
surrounded by foreign enemies without1  
and torn by intestine broils within1    
happened in the fullest force4 ,the     
,english and the ,burgundians united    
together in besieging ,paris1 which was 
ultimately entered by both their armies2
 what with riots amongst the ,parisians1
 the intrigues of the ,queen ,isabeau de
 ,baviere1 the dissensions of the       
,king's uncles1 and the brigandage of   
the nobility who overran the country1   

never was a nation reduced to a more    
pitiable condition2 yet some monuments  
were added to ,paris even during this   
turbulent reign1 the ,church of ,st4    
,gervais being entirely reconstructed in
 #adbj1 and that of ,st4 ,germain       
l',auxerrois so considerably repaired as
 to be almost rebuilt in #adbe1 besides 
several colleges1 hospitals and bridges2
 companies of archers1 cross-bow men and
 armourers were also established4       
,theatrical representations were first  
performed in this reign in the grand    
hall of the ,hospital of the ,trinity1  
,rue ,saint-,denis1 corner of the ,rue  
,grenetat4 ,the theatrical company      
styled themselves ,masters1 ,governors  
and ,brethren of the ,passion and       
,resurrection of our ,lord4 ,under the  
reign of ,charles ,,vii1 surnamed the   
,victorious1 ,france regained all she   
had lost1 and was much indebted for her 
success to the ,maid of ,orleans1 and   
the gallant ,dunois1 who entered ,paris 
and defeated the ,english who retreated 

to the ,bastille and ultimately were    
allowed to retire to ,rouen4 ,but       
although more was effected in this reign
 for the prosperity and glory of        
,france1 ,paris received no additions or
 embellishments3 the ,king being wholly 
occupied in vanquishing the enemies of  
his country2 his son ,lewis ,,xi1 who is
 supposed to have conspired against the 
life of his father1 ascended the throne 
in #adfa2 notwithstanding his reign was 
disturbed by a series of wars1 he found 
time to occupy himself with useful      
institutions1 and founded that of the   
first society of printers in ,paris2 he 
also established the ,school of         
,medicine1 and the ,post ,office4       
,superstitious and cruel1 he first used 
iron cages as prisons1 then instituted  
the prayer styled the ,angelus4         
,although he increased the power of     
,france1 his tyranny1 injustice1        
dissimulation1 and avarice caused him to
 be hated by his subjects4 ,his         
successor ,charles ,,viii was but       

thirteen when called to the throne in   
#adhc1 inheriting the few virtues       
without the many vices of his father1   
but showed much weakness in the         
administration of his affairs2 in the   
early part of his reign ,anne his mother
 was the person who principally governed
 as ,regent1 until he was of age1 when  
he passed the rest of his life in war1  
but was so beloved that two of his      
servants died of grief for the loss of  
their master1 who was surnamed the      
,affable4 ,he was succeeded by his      
cousin ,lewis ,,xii in #adih1 who       
obtained the title of ,father of his    
,people1 certainly the most virtuous    
monarch that ever swayed the sceptre of 
,france2 he observed that he preferred  
seeing his courtiers laugh at his       
savings than to see his people weep for 
his expenses4 ,the ,hotel de ,cluny and 
,le ,pont 7the bridge7 ,notre-,dame were
 constructed in his reign and are still 
standing2 being the most ancient bridge 
in ,paris4 ,he died much regretted1 in  

#aeae1 and all ,france felt deeply the  
loss of a monarch1 whose measures were  
such as must have ensured the happiness 
of his people could he have been spared 
to have accomplished the good work he   
had begun4  ,francis ,i1 his great      
nephew1 succeeded him and was considered
 the beau ideal of chivalry2 he had been
 conspicuous for his accomplishments    
whilst ,duke de ,valois1 although only  
twenty-one when he ascended the throne1 
upon which he was no sooner installed   
than compelled to quit his capital to   
oppose the enemies of ,france1 leaving  
the management of the state to his      
mother ,louisa of ,savoy1 who was not   
destitute of talent1 but vain and       
intriguing1 ,francis1 after performing  
prodigies of valour1 and killing many   
foes with his own hand at the battle of 
,pavia1 was taken prisoner and conveyed 
to ,madrid4 ,on returning to ,france he 
was received with the utmost joy by his 
subjects2 in this reign the principles  
of protestantism were first promulgated 

and several persons were burnt for      
subscribing to the tenets of ,luther4   
,francis was occupied constantly with   
war1 from the commencement of his reign 
until the year of his death4 ,he had    
many virtues but they were sullied by   
infidelity to his engagements1 and his  
persecution of the protestants whom he  
sacrificed as heretics4 ,notwithstanding
 that his time was so much occupied by  
his enemies that a very short period of 
his reign was passed at ,paris1 he found
 means to embellish that city2 the      
,church of ,st-,merri in the ,rue       
,st-,martin was built by his orders1    
precisely as it now stands1 in the year 
#aebj4 ,the style is ,sarrasenzic1 much 
richness of sculpture is displayed1     
particularly over and around the middle 
door1 well meriting the close attention 
of an amateur4 ,at the same period were 
many of the churches now standing       
extensively repaired and nearly rebuilt1
 amongst which ,st4 ,eustache1 ,st4     
,gervais1 ,st4 ,jacques-la-,boucherie1  

of which the tower only remains1 ,st4   
,germain-l',auxerrois1 etc41 several    
colleges and hospitals were instituted1 
fountains and hotels erected1 but       
scarcely any of them are now to be seen1
 or at any rate very few as constructed 
in their original form4 ,he was         
succeeded by his son ,henry ,,ii in     
#aedg1 who like his predecessors was    
constantly occupied with war1 but gained
 one point1 that of taking the last     
place which the ,english retained in    
,france1 being ,calais1 which           
surrendered to the ,duke de ,guise2     
after a reign of thirteen years ,henry  
was killed at a tournament held in the  
,rue ,st-,antoine1 by ,montgomery1 the  
captain of his guard4 ,the cruelties of 
which he was guilty towards the         
protestants entirely eclipse whatever   
good qualities he possessed1 which      
principally consisted in desperate      
courage with extraordinary prowess2 he  
was also zealous in his friendships4    
,according to ,dulaure1 that part of the

 ,louvre which is the oldest1 was built 
by ,henry ,,ii from the design of       
,pierre ,lescot4 ,i have found other    
authors attribute the erection of a     
portion of the ,louvre to ,francis1 but 
it appears that his son had all pulled  
down which was then standing1 and had it
 built as it now remains1 except the    
wing in which the pictures are          
exhibited1 which is of a more recent    
date1 and was not terminated until the  
time of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the augmentation 
of some few colleges and hospitals were 
the only acts of this reign from which  
any advantages to ,paris were derived4  
,in #aeei1 at the age of sixteen1       
,francis ,,ii ascended the throne2 his  
name is familiar to us as the first     
husband of the unfortunate ,mary1 ,queen
 of ,scots2 his mother1 ,catherine de   
,medici1 of infamous memory1 took the   
reigns of government in her hands and   
wreaked all her fury upon the           
protestants4 ,francis1 too young to have
 displayed any decided tone of          

character1 expired in #aefj2 the        
persecution of the huguenots1 as the    
followers of the ,reformed ,church were 
styled1 seems to have exclusively       
occupied the whole time during this     
short reign1 therefore no attention was 
devoted to the improving of ,paris1     
which was next brought under the        
dominion of the young monster1 ,charles 
,,ix1 or rather the continued reign of  
his sanguinary mother1 ,catherine1 he   
being but ten years of age4 ,the        
massacre of the night of ,st4           
,bartholomew is known to all4 ,charles  
certainly had some revulsive feelings on
 the subject1 and several times would   
have given orders to stop it1 but       
,catherine bade him assert the claims of
 heaven1 and be the noble instrument of 
its vengeance1 ,go on1 then1 exclaimed  
the ,king1 and let none remain to       
reproach me with the deed1 and after    
all1 when daylight appeared1 he placed  
himself at a window of the ,louvre1     
which overlooks the ,seine1 and with a  

carbine he fired at the unfortunate     
fugitives who tried to save themselves  
by swimming across the river4 ,in his   
reign was built the ,tuileries1 he      
himself laying the first stone2 it was  
intended for the ,queen ,mother1 but    
,catherine did not inhabit it long1 her 
conscience not permitting her to enjoy  
repose anywhere4 ,charles died a few    
months after the dreadful massacre of   
the protestants1 a prey to all the pangs
 of remorse1 and was succeeded in #aegd 
by his brother ,henry ,,iii4 ,brought up
 in the same pernicious school1 under   
the same infamous mother as his         
predecessor1 little could be hoped from 
such a being2 he was inclined1 however1 
to be somewhat more tolerant than his   
brother1 but was frightened into        
persecuting the protestants2 his mother 
died at the age of seventy1 goaded by   
the consciousness of the crimes she had 
committed2 civil war raged during the   
reign of ,henry1 and he was obliged to  
quit his capital and join the           

protestants1 whom he soon1 however1     
betrayed2 without energy to adopt any   
certain line of conduct1 he balanced    
between the two parties of catholics and
 protestants1 until both sects despised 
him1 and at length he was stabbed by a  
fanatic friar1 named ,jacques ,clement4 
,several convents and religious         
establishments were founded in his      
reign1 amongst the rest the ,feuillans1 
which was extensive and had a church    
attached1 but in #ahjd the whole was    
demolished1 and on its site1 and that of
 the monastery of the ,capucins1 were   
built the ,rue ,rivoli1 ,castiglione1   
and ,monthabor1 and a terrace of the    
gardens of the ,tuileries is still      
called the ,feuillans4 ,the ,pont ,neuf 
was also built in this reign4 ,in #aehi1
 ,henry ,,iv1 surnamed the ,great1      
succeeded to the throne2 he was of the  
house of ,bourbon1 and descended from   
,robert1 the second son of ,louis the   
,ninth4 ,he was compelled to begin his  
reign by laying siege to his own        

capital1 which was in the hands of his  
enemies1 who defended it with #eh1jjj   
troops1 and #a1ejj armed priests1       
scholars and monks1 and after three     
years' vain endeavours he was obliged to
 renounce the protestant religion1 and  
conform to the catholic ceremonies1     
which produced a truce1 and ,henry at   
last entered ,paris4 ,by his mild and   
judicious conduct he regenerated the    
prosperity of ,france1 and published the
 famous edict of ,nantes in favour of   
the protestants1 and acted with         
considerable wisdom under the difficult 
circumstances in which he was placed1 by
 the intemperate zeal of the catholics  
and huguenots4 ,at last1 after many     
unsuccessful attempts upon his life1 he 
was stabbed in his own carriage by      
,ravaillac1 a religious fanatic1 who    
conceived that the ,king was not        
sufficiently zealous in the cause of    
catholicism2 he was regretted by every  
worthy character throughout his realms1 
for1 although he had many of the faults 

common to men1 yet he had such redeeming
 qualities that he well merited the     
title of ,great4 ,during his reign      
,paris was considerably embellished1 the
 improvement of the city being with him 
a favourite object4 ,the ,hospital of   
,saint ,louis was built by his orders1  
himself laying the first stone2 it is   
still standing1 and is generally filled 
with patients1 who receive the most     
humane treatment4 ,it is situated in the
 ,rue ,careme ,prenant1 near the        
,barriere du ,combat4 ,he established a 
manufactory of ,persian carpets1 on the 
,quai de ,billy1 ,no4 #cj4  ,the ,rue   
and ,place ,dauphine1 the ,place        
,royale1 which still exhibits a square  
of houses unaltered in style since the  
day they were built1 owed their         
construction to his mania for building  
and passion for augmenting and improving
 his capital4 ,several other streets    
were extended and in part rebuilt under 
his reign1 besides which he founded     
different institutions1 had divers      

fountains and gates erected1 as well as 
bridges1 and some other public edifices1
 which having since disappeared or      
become the houses of individuals1       
workshops1 warehouses1 etc41 it is not  
worthwhile to recapitulate them1 as they
 cease to be objects of interest4       
,several theatres were established at   
this period for the first time1 the     
performers having merely given          
representations in large rooms belonging
 to public buildings where they could   
get accommodation1 particularly in the  
,hotel de ,bourgoyne1 in the ,rue       
,mauconseil1 which at last acquired the 
name of a theatre2 but a company of     
,italians received such encouragement   
from ,henry ,,iv1 that they were        
enabled1 in a situation assigned them   
regularly1 to establish a theatre in the
 ,hotel d',argent1 ,rue de la ,poterie1 
corner of the ,rue de la ,verrerie4 ,he 
was equally the patron of literature1   
and of the arts and sciences2 the       
,tuileries and ,louvre1 under his       

directions1 received the material and   
superintendence which was requisite for 
their completion1 as far as the design  
extended at that epoch4  ,in #afaj      
,louis ,,xiii1 but nine years of age1   
became heir to the throne1 and ,marie de
 ,medici1 his mother and widow of ,henry
 ,,iv1 was nominated ,regent2 her first 
act was to call into power all her      
husband's enemies1 which consisted of   
her own favourites1 through whom she    
governed1 and when her regency ceased1  
her son followed her example and became 
the instrument of others1 until the     
power of governing was exclusively      
acquired by ,cardinal ,richelieu1 who   
devoted his extraordinary talents in a  
degree to the interests of his country1 
but more especially to the gratification
 of his vanity1 and the promotion of his
 ambitious projects2 descending to the  
extremes of injustice1 dissimulation1   
and cruelty1 to accomplish his object1  
he became the persecutor of ,mary1 who  
had raised him from comparative         

obscurity1 and caused her exile1 in     
which she died in poverty1 which she    
certainly merited by her misconduct1 but
 not by the instigation of her protege  
,richelieu4 ,but with all his sins1 he  
effected much good2 he founded the      
,royal ,printing establishment1 the     
,french ,academy1 also the ,garden of   
,plants2 he built the ,palais-,royal and
 rebuilt the ,church and ,college of the
 ,sorbonne4 ,in this reign more         
religious establishments were founded   
than in any preceding1 amongst which    
were the ,convent of the ,carmes        
,dechausses1 ,no4 #gj1 ,rue de          
,vaugirard1 the monks of which possessed
 a secret for making a particular kind  
of liquid which is called ,eau des      
,carmes1 and is still in demand2 the    
church and building belonging to the    
establishment are now standing1 and were
 recently occupied by nuns4 ,the        
,convent of ,jacobins between the ,rues 
du ,bac and ,st-,dominique1 with its    
,church1 which still remains and is     

called ,st-,thomas d',aquin1 is well    
worth notice1 and the monastery is now  
occupied by the armoury which is one of 
the most interesting sights of ,paris4  
,the ,benedictines ,anglaises1 ,no4     
#bfi1 ,rue ,st-,jacques1 was formerly   
occupied by ,english monks1 who fled    
their country on account of some        
persecution in the reign of ,henry      
,,viii4  ,in #afgd1 ,father ,joseph     
,shirburne1 the prior of monastery1     
pulled down the old building1 and       
erected another in its place more       
commodious1 also a church attached to it
 in which ,james the ,second of ,england
 was buried1 as also his daughter ,mary 
,stuart4 ,it has now become the property
 of an individual1 and is at present    
occupied as a factory of cotton4 ,the   
,oratoire in the ,rue ,saint-,honore1   
since devoted to protestant worship1 was
 built in the year #afba by ,m4 de      
,berulle1 since ,cardinal1 on the site  
of the ,hotel du ,bouchage1 once the    
residence of ,gabrielle d',estrees1 the 

favourite mistress of ,henry ,,iv4 ,the 
,convent of the ,capucins1 situated in  
the ,place des ,capucins1 at present an 
,hospital4 ,seminaire des ,oratoriens1  
,rue du ,faubourg ,saint-,jacques1 #bed1
 now occupied by the ,deaf and ,dumb4   
,college des ,jesuites1 at present      
,college of ,louis-le-,grand4 ,convent  
of ,petits-,peres3 the church of which  
still remains and is situated at the    
corner of the ,rue                      
,notre-,dame-des-,victoires4 ,the ,monk 
,fiacre1 called a ,saint1 was buried in 
this church2 thinking that his sanctity 
was a preservative against evil1 they   
stuck his portrait on all the hackney   
coaches1 which was the cause of their   
ever after being called ,fiacre4  ,a    
further recapitulation of these         
establishments would only be tedious to 
the reader1 particularly as they are now
 for the most part become private       
houses2 suffice it to say1 that in the  
reign of ,louis ,,xiii twenty           
monasteries were established at ,paris4 

,the nunnery of ,ursulines2 ,no4 #dg1   
,rue ,sainte-,avoye1 now a ,jews'       
synagogue4 ,the ,convent of the         
,visitation of ,st4 ,mary1 ,rue         
,saint-,antoine1 ,nos4 #bad and #baf2   
the church1 still standing1 was built in
 #afcb after the model of               
,notre-,dame-de-la-,rotonde at ,rome1   
and is called ,notre-,dame-des-,anges4  
,another convent of the same order was  
built in #afbc in the ,rue              
,saint-,jacques1 ,nos4 #aic and #aie1   
and is ,i believe still occupied by     
nuns1 as it was so very recently4 ,the  
convent of ,filles-de-la-,madeleine1    
,rue des ,fontaines1 between the ,nos4  
#ad and #af1 which has now become a     
house of seclusion for women who have   
been convicted of offences4 ,the        
,convent of the ,annonciades ,celestes  
or ,filles ,bleues1 founded by the      
,marchioness de ,verneuil1 mistress of  
,henry ,,iv1 is now in spite of all its 
pompous titles a waggon office in the   
,rue ,culture-,sainte-,catherine1 ,no4  

#bi4 ,the ,assumption1 a convent for    
nuns1 of which the church is still      
standing in the ,rue ,saint-,honore1    
between the ,nos4 #cfi and #cga1 is     
remarkable for its large dome1 but      
appears out of proportion with the rest 
of the building1 which is otherwise not 
destitute of merit4 ,the ,val-de-,grace1
 a ,benedictine ,abbey1 ,rue ,faubourg  
,saint-,jacques1 between the ,nos4 #bgg 
and #bgi4 ,the ,queen ,anne of ,austria 
founded the establishment in #afba2 the 
church is still preserved in perfect    
order1 and is of very rich architecture1
 too profuse in ornament4 ,the rest of  
the building1 once inhabited by         
,benedictine nuns1 is now an asylum for 
sick or wounded soldiers1 being a       
military hospital4 ,port-,royal1 a      
convent for nuns1 established in #afbe  
in the ,rue de la ,bourbe1 is now a     
lying-in hospital4 ,the ,convent of the 
,filles de ,sainte-,elisabeth2 the first
 stone was laid by ,marie de ,medici in 
#afbh1 but was1 like a multitude of     

others1 suppressed in #agij1 the church 
only remaining2 it is situated in the   
,rue du ,temple1 between ,nos4 #ajg and 
#aji4  ,a ,convent for ,benedictine     
,nuns founded in #afcf in the ,rue de   
,sevres1 ,no4 #c1 being suppressed in   
#aggh1 was converted into the more      
useful purpose of an hospital1 and as   
such it still remains4 ,the ,convent of 
the ,filles de la ,ste-,croix1 situated 
,no4 #hf1 ,rue de ,charonne1 was        
occupied as recently as #ahbc by nuns2  
it was founded in #afci4 ,the noble     
church of ,st-,roch1 ,rue ,st-,honore1  
was commenced as a chapel in #aehg1 and 
in #afbb was converted into a parish    
church1 but was not entirely finished   
until #agdj4 ,it is now the church      
attended by the royal family1 and is an 
object of interest to every one who     
visits ,paris4 ,the church of           
,ste-,marguerite was erected in #afbe in
 the ,rue ,st-,bernard1 ,nos4 #bh and   
#cj1 ,faubourg ,st-,antoine1 and is     
still attended by the inhabitants of    

that quarter4 ,maison de ,scipion was   
founded in a street of the same name in 
the year #afbb by an ,italian gentleman 
named ,scipio ,sardini1 and is now the  
bakehouse for making bread for all the  
hospitals in ,paris4 ,such were the     
principal edifices instituted in ,paris1
 during the reign of ,louis ,,xiii1     
either as ,convents1 ,monasteries1 or   
,nunneries1 with churches attached to   
them2 ,i have cited the most conspicuous
 of those of which any vestiges remain1 
indicating their different localities1  
besides a number of hospitals1 most of  
which ,i have stated2 that of the       
,incurables certainly merits attention1 
it was founded in #afcb in the ,rue de  
,sevres1 and is now a refuge for those  
women of whom no hopes can be cherished 
of ultimate recovery4 ,the ,palace of   
the ,luxembourg was one of the most     
important edifices erected in this reign
 by ,mary de ,medici whilst she was     
regent in #afae1 in the ,rue ,vaugirard1
 at present the ,chamber of ,peers1     

after having served the purpose of a    
prison1 for which a portion of it is    
still appropriated for criminals against
 the state2 but with its large and      
beautiful gardens it merits a more      
detailed description1 which will be     
given under the head of public          
monuments4 ,the whole number of         
religious establishments of all         
descriptions built in the reign of      
,louis ,,xiii1 amount to forty-nine1    
besides many ,bridges1 ,fountains1      
,hotels1 ,statues1 etc41 etc42 which    
altogether so augmented ,paris that it  
became requisite to have another wall1  
affording the capital more extended     
dimensions1 which was accordingly       
constructed4 ,notwithstanding all these 
improvements the streets of ,paris were 
in a most filthy condition1 constantly  
emitting a disagreeable odour2 they were
 very narrow and the greater portion of 
them very ill paved1 besides which they 
were infested with thieves1 and         
complaints were continually arising     

against the hosts of pages and lackeys  
who insulted people in the streets1 and 
were continually committing some        
disorders1 both during the day and the  
night1 when persons were frequently     
killed in the skirmishes that were      
constantly taking place4 ,ordinances and
 edicts were continually appearing1     
forbidding the pages and lackeys to wear
 arms1 but all of no avail2 when any one
 was arrested1 he was rescued by his    
companions1 and the officers of police  
sometimes killed4 ,louis ,,xiii1 ever   
feeble in mind1 and probably in         
constitution1 died at the age of #db2 it
 was supposed from a premature decay4   
,the history of the reign of ,louis the 
,fourteenth and those which follow to   
the present day are so well known to the
 ,english1 that whatever ,i might state 
respecting them would only be to my     
readers a repetition of that of which   
they are already informed1 as the       
continual wars for the last two         
centuries between ,england and ,france  

have brought the nations in constant    
contact2 but prior to that period1 even 
the most prominent events of the ,french
 history are but little known to the    
,english1 and in order to enhance the   
enjoyment of examining the old buildings
 in ,paris1 ,i conceived it necessary to
 give a slight sketch of the monarchs   
under whom they were erected1 with the  
dates as accurately as could be         
ascertained1 but consider that it would 
be useless to do so as regards those    
edifices constructed since the reign of 
,louis ,,xiii1 as they can only afford  
pleasure as regards their utility or    
beauty2 as if not two hundred years old1
 the age of their date ceases to excite 
interest1 although ,i shall describe    
them in due course4 ,i have often been  
surprised that in all schools1 although 
they give the history of ,rome1 of      
,greece1 and of course of ,england1 yet 
of ,france1 which is the country the    
nearest to us1 we are suffered to remain
 ignorant as to its history4 ,we have   

all heard of the battles of ,cressy1    
,poitiers and ,agincourt1 and remember  
that they were gained by the ,edwards   
and ,henry the ,fifth1 but few persons  
know anything about who were the ,french
 kings under whom they were lost2 the   
only instances where the history of the 
,french is brought to our minds1 is when
 any connexion by marriage has occurred 
between the families of the sovereigns  
of the two nations4     ,,chapter ,,iv4 
,paris as it is1 being a general survey 
of the place itself1 its                
attractions1 its demerits1 the          
inhabitants1 their manners to           
strangers1 towards each other1 their    
customs1 and occupations4               
,illustration3 ,church of the           
,madeleine4 ,published by ,f4 ,sinnett1 
#ae1 ,grande rue ,verte4   ,i know no   
better means of obtaining a first       
general view of ,paris and its inmates1 
than by taking a walk upon the          
,boulevards1 ,i therefore will invite   
the reader to imagine himself           

promenading with me1 we will begin at   
the ,madeleine1 and occupy a short time 
in surveying that noble and majestic    
building2 it greatly reminds me of the  
,temple of ,theseus1 at ,athens2 it is  
perhaps one of the most perfect         
monuments1 as regards its exterior1 in  
,europe1 the statues and sculpture are  
fine as to their general effect1 but the
 lofty handsome pillars lose much of    
their beauty from the joins of the      
stones being too conspicuous1 and having
 become black1 the fine broad mass is   
cut up1 and gives one an idea of so many
 cheeses placed one upon another1 or    
rather they resemble the joints of a    
caterpillar3 the interior is certainly  
most gorgeous1 and at first strikes the 
beholder as a most splendid display of  
rich magnificence2 but a moment's       
reflection1 and instantly he feels how  
inconsistent is all that gilded mass and
 profusion of ornament with the         
beautiful and chaste simplicity of the  
exterior4 ,i never can conceive that all

 that glitter of gold is in good keeping
 with the calm repose and dignity which 
ought to reign throughout a church4 ,the
 ,madeleine was begun in the reign of   
,louis the ,fifteenth1 and was intended 
for different purposes as it slowly     
progressed through the different reigns 
which have since occurred4 ,louis       
,philippe at length decided upon        
completing it with the energy that had  
ever before been wanting4 ,several      
public monuments had been suffered to   
remain dormant during the two preceding 
reigns1 or their operations were carried
 on with so sparing a hand1 that whilst 
a few workmen were employed at one end  
of a building1 weeds and moss began to  
grow on the other4 ,this pigmy style of 
proceeding was well-satirised during the
 reign of ,charles ,x in one of the     
papers1 which announced in large        
letters1 the workmen at the ,madeleine  
have been doubled6 where there was one1 
there are now two6 ,but soon after the  
present ,king came to the throne1       

capital was found1 and the industrious  
employed4 ,thus much for this splendid  
work of art2 let us turn round and look 
about us3 ,ah6 see1 there are the works 
of nature1 how gay and cheerful those   
flowers appear so tastefully arranged in
 ,madame ,adde's shop1 whilst she       
herself looks as fresh and healthy as   
her plants which are blooming around    
her2 yet with that robust and country   
air she is a ,parisian1 but1 as she     
justly remarked to me1 she was always   
brought up to work hard1 and as her     
labours have been well rewarded1 health 
and content have followed4 ,she and her 
flowers have already been noticed in    
,mrs4 ,gore's ,season in ,paris1 who    
used to pay her frequent visits1 for who
 indeed would go anywhere else who had  
once dealt with her1 for what more can  
one desire than civility1 good nature1  
reasonable charges1 and a constant      
variety of the choicest articles2 ,i    
therefore can conscientiously recommend 
all my readers who come to ,paris1 and  

are amateurs of ,flora1 to call now and 
then on ,madame ,adde1 ,no4 #f1 ,place  
de la ,madeleine4  ,now having          
contemplated the beauties of art and of 
nature1 let us observe some animated    
specimens of her works3 what a moving   
mass is before us1 'tis a merry scene1  
the laughing children running after1 and
 dodging each other1 rolling on the     
ground with the plenitude of their      
mirth1 the neat looking bonnes 7nursery 
maids7 still smiling while they chide1  
the jovial coachmen wrestling on their  
stands and playing like boys together1  
but all in good humour1 and content     
seems to sit on every brow1 and even the
 aged as they meet1 greet each other    
with a smile4 ,how infectious is        
cheerfulness1 when ,i have the blue     
devils ,i always go and take a walk on  
the ,boulevards2 and what makes these   
people so happy8 is the natural         
question2 because they are content with 
a little1 and pleased with a trifle2    
then they are a trifling people is the  

reply4 ,what boots it ,i would ask8     
happiness is all that we desire1 and ,i 
persist that those are the best         
philosophers who can obtain happiness   
with the least means4 ,but how the green
 trees1 the white stone houses1 the gay 
looking shops1 the broad road with the  
equipages rolling along all contribute  
to heighten the animation of the scene4 
,we are now at the ,rue de la ,paix2 it 
is certainly a noble street1 and we will
 turn down it to look at the statue of  
,napoleon on the column in the ,place   
,vendome2 the pillar1 which was cast    
from the cannon taken from the enemies  
of ,france1 is decidedly a work of      
extraordinary merit and beauty1 and     
requires a good deal of study to        
appreciate the exquisite workmanship    
displayed in its execution4 ,but if it  
were not for the reminiscences          
associated with the character of        
,napoleon1 who could ever admire his    
statue on the top of the column1 in a   
costume so contrary to all that is      

graceful and dignified2 a little cocked 
hat with its horrid stiff angles1 a     
great coat with another angle sticking  
out1 the tout ensemble presenting a     
deformity rather than an ornament3      
however there he stands on the pinnacle 
of what he and men in general would call
 the monument of his glory1 a memento of
 blood1 of tears of widows and orphans4 
,could the names of those ruined and    
heart broken beings be inscribed upon   
it1 whose misery was wrought by his     
triumphs1 it would indeed tell a tale of
 woe4 ,the ,place ,vendome1 in which the
 column stands1 has a very noble        
appearance1 being a fine specimen of the
 style of building of ,louis the        
,fourteenth1 in whose reign it was      
erected2 and he too fed his ambition    
with wholesale flow of blood1 and with  
treasure wreaked from the hard earned   
labour of his subjects1 and the         
abridgments of their comforts1 but both 
were ultimately destined to chew the    
bitter cud of mortification1 and however

 bright the sun by which they rose to   
imaginary glory1 they were doomed to set
 in a starless night4 ,but let us turn  
from these lugubrious images of war1 and
 regain the ,boulevards and enjoy the   
pleasure of beholding a peaceful people4
 ,do not let us fail to observe that    
beautiful mansion at the corner of the  
rue ,lafitte2 it is called the ,cite    
,italienne1 and can only be compared to 
a palace1 the richness of the carve-work
 surpassing any thing of the description
 throughout the whole capital2 although 
it has recently become so much the mode 
to adorn their houses with sculpture1   
yet none have arrived at the same degree
 of perfection displayed in the ,maison 
d'or3 carved out on the solid stone is a
 boar hunt1 which is really executed    
with considerable talent2 to give an    
accurate description of all its beauties
 would much exceed the space ,i could   
afford it in justice to other objects2  
it is very extensive1 and is ,i believe 
three houses united in one4 ,i have     

understood that the sum total expended  
upon it was #a1fjj1jjj francs1 or       
#fd1jjjl4 ,but that my readers may form 
some idea of the interior1 ,i recommend 
them to enter the ,ancien ,cafe ,hardy1 
which is established as a ,restaurant   
within this beautiful building1 and     
however interested my countrymen may    
feel in all that is intellectual1 yet at
 the same time they possess that much of
 the sensual1 as to have a very strong  
predilection for a good dinner1 of the  
quality of which few are better judges2 
but with them it is not only as regards 
the excellence of the viands1 but also  
they have their peculiar tastes as to   
how and where it is served2 knowing so  
well their ideas in this respect1 ,i can
 recommend them with confidence to      
,messieurs ,verdier and ,dauzier1       
convinced that all their different      
fancies will be gratified4 ,if they wish
 to be exclusive1 to enjoy their meal   
tete-a-tete with their friend1 they will
 find an elegant little apartment suited

 to their wishes2 if they be three or   
four or more persons1 they will still   
find they can be accommodated in such a 
manner that they may always imagine     
themselves at home2 in fact there are   
about twenty apartments of different    
sizes1 which are decorated in the most  
handsome style1 yet all varying with    
regard to the pattern of the furniture1 
and all uniting an appearance of comfort
 and elegance1 the sofa1 chairs1 and    
curtains of each little cabinet being of
 the richest silk1 and the other        
decorations are consistently luxurious4 
,the view from the windows presents all 
that can be imagined that is amusing and
 animating1 overlooking the most        
agreeable part of the ,boulevards1 being
 that which is designated the ,boulevard
 ,italien1 and is the most fashionable  
resort in ,paris4 ,by the aid of a      
calorifere1 the whole establishment is  
heated to an agreeable degree of warmth1
 but for those who like to see a        
cheering blaze there are chimneys which 

afford them the means of having that    
indulgence4 ,if they prefer dining in   
the public saloon1 for the sake of      
seeing the variety of visiters by which 
it is frequented1 they will find a most 
splendid apartment brilliantly fitted   
up1 being entirely of white and gold1   
where every thing that is useful will be
 found1 but always so arranged as to be 
rendered ornamental2 in the elegant     
chandeliers by which the apartment is   
adorned1 oil on a purified principle is 
burned2 no attention in short has been  
omitted which could tend towards        
rendering the establishment an          
attraction for the ,english4 ,i happened
 to be there when an apartment was      
arranged for a wedding party1 and       
nothing could exceed the taste and      
elegance with which the table was       
disposed1 presenting a perfect picture1 
where splendour and luxury abounded1 but
 yet where a certain degree of          
consistency was preserved4 ,with regard 
to the superior quality of the different

 delicacies which are provided1 and the 
culinary talent displayed in their      
preparation1 even ,vatel himself might  
be more than satisfied4 ,i have visited 
all the most celebrated ,restaurants in 
,paris1 and should certainly say1 that  
for the good quality of the articles of 
the table1 for the comfortable          
arrangements of the apartments1 and     
attentive civility of the attendants1   
there is not any that can surpass the   
,cafe ,hardy1 although many there are   
which are infinitely more expensive4    
,continuing our walk upon the           
,boulevards1 it is worthy of remark how 
richly some of the new houses in and    
about the ,rue ,richelieu are           
sculptured1 so as to present the        
appearance of a succession of palaces1  
we next arrive at the ,boulevard        
,montmartre1 where the influx of people 
is the greatest3 we pass by the ,passage
 des ,panoramas but do not enter it just
 now1 although it contains some of the  
handsomest shops in ,paris1 but it is   

too crowded1 we prefer keeping our      
course on the ,boulevards where we can  
look about us at our ease and           
contemplate the physiognomies of the    
varied groups before us2 let us halt a  
while at the ,theatre des ,varietes and 
remark with what eagerness numbers stop 
to scan the programme of the            
entertainments for the evening1 amongst 
them are all ages1 all classes1 the     
common soldier1 porter1 and servant     
girl1 all possessing a high idea of     
their judgment in theatrical affairs2   
passing on a little further the ,theatre
 du ,gymnase arrests the observer's     
notice1 where ,bouffe has so long       
displayed his comic powers1 which       
certainly in my recollection have never 
been surpassed1 and ,i doubt if they    
ever have been equalled2 there is ever a
 chasteness in his acting1 from which he
 never departs1 and keeps the audience  
in a roar of laughter without ever      
having recourse to grimace or           
buffoonery4  ,the stupendous ,porte     

7gate7 ,st ,denis next strikes the eye1 
and has a most imposing effect2 it was  
built by ,louis ,,xiv in commemoration  
of his victories1 as ,i have before     
stated2 the bas-reliefs with which it is
 adorned represent pyramids1 and        
colossal allegorical figures of ,holland
 and the ,rhine1 the capture of         
,maestricht1 the passage of the ,rhine  
at ,tolhuys1 which with two lions are   
its most conspicuous ornaments4 ,whilst 
the mind is still occupied in reflecting
 upon this noble monument1 another      
awakens attention at a short distance   
from the last2 it is the ,porte         
,st-,martin1 ,boulevard ,st-,martin1    
which has been represented as a copy of 
that of ,st-,severus at ,rome2 it owes  
its erection to the same founder and was
 raised for the same purpose1 that of   
publishing to posterity the fame of his 
victories2 he is allegorically          
represented as ,hercules defeating the  
,germans1 the taking of ,limburg1       
,besancon1 etc4 ,i shall not attempt to 

enter into a minute detail of these     
objects1 it would only tire me to do so1
 and perhaps fatigue my reader still    
more2 ,i shall therefore content myself 
by stating that1 taken as a whole1 it   
has an extremely fine effect4 ,a few    
paces farther is the ,theatre of the    
,porte ,st-,martin1 which was never a   
fashionable resort1 but has often       
produced me much entertainment1         
particularly when the celebrated        
,mademoiselle ,george afforded it the   
benefits of her talents2 proceeding a   
few hundred yards distance1 the ,theatre
 of the ,ambigu-,comique presents itself
 as worthy of remark2 although of a     
minor rank1 ,i remember being much      
amused at the long trains of persons    
waiting1 according to the custom in     
,france1 at the doors of this ,theatre  
for admission when a popular piece was  
played1 called ,nostradamus2 as two     
persons can only pay at once no more are
 suffered to enter at a time2 hence they
 form in pairs behind each other until  

they extend sometimes1 the length of a  
furlong2 they remain very quiet         
occasionally for hours1 the first comers
 standing close to the doors1 and as    
others arrive they regularly take their 
station behind the last persons of the  
queue1 as it is styled4 ,i remember an  
,englishman coming up when the tail had 
attained rather an inconvenient length1 
and he did not relish placing himself at
 the end of it1 and endeavoured to slip 
into one of the joints as it was much   
nearer the door2 but a gendarme1        
perceiving his drift1 very              
unceremoniously marched him to the end  
of the queue1 as precedence is allotted 
to persons in proportion as they arrive 
earlier or later and the most perfect   
order is by that means preserved2 how   
much better is such an arrangement than 
that which prevails in ,england at the  
entering of the theatres1 where physical
 strength alone gives priority1 and the 
bigger the brute the sooner he enters1  
whilst screams and murmurs attest the   

treading upon toes1 squeezing of ribs1  
etc4  ,the fountain of ,st-,martin in   
front of the ,ambigu-,comique is one of 
the most beautiful objects in ,paris2 a 
handsome font rises in the middle from  
which the water falls in sheets of      
silvery profusion1 whilst around1 lions 
disgorge liquid streams which all unite 
in the grand basin2 this sight is most  
beautiful to behold by the light of the 
moon4 ,we next enter the ,boulevard du  
,temple1 where there is such a number of
 theatres and coffee-houses all joining 
each other1 that there is really some   
difficulty of ascertaining which is the 
one or the other4 ,the ,theatre de la   
,gaiete1 the resort principally of the  
middle or lower classes1 is one of the  
most conspicuous1 as also the ,cirque   
,olympique1 or ,franconi's ,theatre1    
where the performances resemble those at
 ,astley's4 ,there is always an immense 
crowd on these ,boulevards amusing      
themselves around a number of shows2 or 
playing or looking at various games     

which are constantly going forward1     
singers1 musicians1 conjurors1 merry    
andrews1 fortune tellers1 orators1      
dancers1 tumblers1 etc41 are all        
exerting their powers1 to gain a little 
coin from the easily pleased multitude2 
these boulevards have in fact the       
appearance of a perpetual fete or fair1 
but the curious ideas that appear to me 
to have entered the heads of these      
people in the nature of their           
performances1 are such as ,i should     
imagine none would ever have thought of 
but the ,french2 nor any lower orders   
but of that nation could have been found
 to appreciate such singular            
exhibitions4 ,one of this description   
particularly excited my notice2 a man   
came up with another man in his arms and
 popped him down just as if he was a    
block2 he had no sooner deposited his   
burden than he began a long harangue    
upon the talents of the individual whom 
he had just deposited before us1 in     
acting a machine or automaton1 he then  

to prove his assertion gave him a knock 
on the back of the head1 when it fell   
forward just as if it had belonged to a 
figure made with joints2 he then gave it
 a chuck of the chin so violent that it 
sent the head back so as to lean on the 
coat collar2 at last he put it in its   
proper position1 he then operated upon  
the arms and legs of the image actor in 
the same manner1 and so perfectly       
lifeless did he appear1 that many new   
comers who had not heard the            
introductory speech of the showman1     
absolutely thought that it was on       
inanimate figure made to imitate a man  
that was before them1 as the orator     
always designated his piece of still    
life his mecanique1 which means machine2
 in order to afford every one the       
benefit of a close examination1 he      
lifted up his automaton1 then flumped   
him directly opposite and close to the  
persons who formed part of the circle   
and whom he judged were most likely to  
throw a sou1 bidding us observe that    

even the eye never winked and that there
 was not the slightest breathing        
perceptible1 and in justice ,i must say 
,i never saw an actor better play his   
part1 for watch him as closely as you   
would there never was the least symptom 
of life visible4 ,i had often before    
seen images made to imitate men1 but    
never had till then seen a man imitate  
an image3 a few paces farther was a man 
acting a variety of parts with          
extraordinary humour1 an old nurse out  
of place1 then a young lover entreating 
his mistress to have pity on him1 next a
 man in a violent passion1 presently1 an
 epicure eating bonbons on the verge of 
the grave2 the inexhaustible force of   
lungs1 the incessant supply of words and
 ideas that many of them appeared to    
possess1 to me was quite a matter of    
wonderment4 ,at a short distance is a   
fort with cannon1 whilst persons take a 
cross-bow and shoot at it2 if they can  
hit one of the guns it naturally goes   
off2 for the privilege of having a shot1

 a sou is paid if he do not hit the     
cannon1 but if he succeed in so doing1  
he receives a sou2 the reader may       
suppose that a miss takes place at the  
rate of about seven times to a hit2 and 
after several young countrymen had been 
trying in vain1 and had lost a good many
 pence1 they began to grumble and       
declare that it was next to impossible  
to hit the cannon more than once in a   
hundred times1 upon which the proprietor
 himself took the cross-bow and at the  
same distance as the others stood1 hit  
the cannon five times running with the  
most perfect apparent ease1 which       
certainly silenced the grumblers1 but   
convinced them of their own awkwardness4
 ,my attention was next attracted by a  
pretty little building surrounded by    
moss and trees1 at the top of a large   
glass globe which contained water with  
several gold and silver fish swimming in
 it1 while some canary birds1 who were  
sometimes perching on the house1 the    
moss1 or the trees1 ever and anon flew  

to the bottom of the globe and were seen
 fluttering about amongst the fish1 then
 ascend to their little building without
 having wetted a feather2 the effect is 
very pretty and the deception is        
pleasing1 inasmuch as the birds require 
no torturing tuition to perform their   
little parts2 the secret consists in one
 globe being placed in another          
considerably larger1 the outer being    
filled with water in which are the fish1
 whilst the inner wherein the birds are 
seen is dry and empty4 ,a fortress where
 canary birds are again the performers  
is a sight which is extremely curious1  
as a proof of what these little         
creatures are capable of executing under
 the management of a master1 where ,i   
fear gentleness has not only been       
exercised2 a number of little cannon are
 placed to which the birds apply a      
substance at the end of a little stick  
which causes them to go off1 when some  
fall and pretend to die and the victors 
advance with their muskets1 and         

strutting about give you to understand  
that the fort is taken and that they are
 conquerors4  ,to recapitulate all the  
curious manoeuvres which are constantly 
going forward on the ,boulevards would  
swell a volume1 we will therefore pass  
on to the more retired parts1 where the 
fine vistas of high trees have been     
spared the havoc of the ,three ,days2   
these once extended throughout the whole
 course of the ,boulevards1 but so many 
trees were cut down to form barricades1 
that those beautiful arches formed by   
rows of lofty elms1 which were merely   
trained on the inner side1 the outer    
being suffered to grow in the wild      
luxuriance of nature1 are only now to be
 met with few and far between4 ,near the
 spot where formerly stood the much     
dreaded ,bastille1 now rises to the view
 the column erected to commemorate the  
,revolution of #ahcj2 inclining to the  
right1 the ,boulevards then lead to the 
,seine4 ,in many parts of these         
delightful promenades1 double rows of   

chairs are placed1 and persons of the   
highest respectability come from        
different quarters and sit for hours in 
them1 amused with observing the happy   
moving scene around them2 the seats on  
the ,boulevard ,italien are often       
occupied by persons of fashion1 who     
arrive in their equipages1 then take    
chairs for an hour or two1 whilst their 
carriages wait for them2 the charge for 
each chair is one sou1 but every one    
takes two1 one for the purpose of       
resting the feet1 and generally takes   
ices which are served from ,tortoni's1  
long celebrated for the supply of that  
cooling refreshment4 ,it is by night    
that the ,boulevards are seen to the    
greatest advantage1 the innumerable     
lights blazing from the different       
theatres1 the lamps placed before the   
coffee-houses1 the brilliant shops1 the 
trees1 the equipages1 the sound of music
 and singing1 the houses1 which resemble
 palaces1 the gilded cafes all united   
has the air of a fairy scene to any one 

brought suddenly upon them4  ,some of   
the handsomest shops and coffee-houses  
are to be found on the ,boulevards1 and 
dwellings where many of the most        
respectable persons reside4 ,there is   
always an humble traffic going on from  
an immense number of stalls1 in which   
various commodities are sold1 and       
although the assortment consists of a   
hundred different descriptions of       
articles1 yet all are at one price1     
consisting of everything that can well  
be imagined1 from a comb to a pair of   
bellows1 the vender singing out the     
price with stentorian lungs1 perhaps    
twenty-five sous1 more or less1 and as  
there is a great deal of opposition with
 these itinerant merchants1 they often  
try who can cry out the loudest1 and    
succeed in raising a terrific din1 which
 amuses the mob1 who consider that all  
is life and spirit as long as there is  
noise and fun going forward2 these      
,boulevards1 therefore1 are just such as
 suit the ,parisian lower classes4      

,those on the south side of the ,seine  
are an exact contrast1 most of them     
being so deserted1 that in viewing the  
long lines of tall arched elms1 with    
scarcely an individual moving beneath   
them1 one could imagine that they were a
 hundred miles from any capital2 but    
there is something pleasing in retiring 
to these lone green shades1 when        
fatigued with the bustle and rattling   
noises of the city4 ,the only           
individuals usually to be met with in   
these quiet ,boulevards are now and then
 a nursery-maid with a child1 an old    
lady of the gone-by school1 and her     
female servant of the same era1 who jog 
on at a slow and solemn pace as they    
moan over the good old times that are   
passed1 and sympathise in expressions of
 horror at the vices of the present day2
 a tall thin battered looking beau1     
whose youth was passed in the last      
century1 meets the antiquated pair1     
mutual salutations take place1 the      
gentleman doffs his hat1 and with a     

graceful sort of turn and wave of the   
hand1 at the same time bows his body    
full half way to the ground1 which1     
although rather stiffened with age1     
still retains a shadow of the elegance  
of former times4 ,madame makes a very   
pretty reverence1 somewhat ceremonious1 
according to the flippant ideas of the  
present day1 entreats ,monsieur would   
put on his hat1 would be in despair if  
he should catch cold2 he obeys1 is      
enchanted to see her look so well1 but  
desolated to hear she has a little cold1
 and after expressing the most fervent  
hopes for her getting better1 he takes  
his leave1 having too good a notion of  
propriety to join the lady in her walk  
lest a liaison between them might be    
suspected4 ,how different this worn-out 
remnant of the days of ,louis the       
,sixteenth from la jeune ,france of the 
present day1 when the usual greeting    
between the young men would be a nod of 
the head1 ,bon jour1 ca va bien8 adieu1 
and away1 which is tantamount to ,how   

do1 quite well1 good bye1 and off2 with 
a lady the abruptness would be a little 
softened1 but any politeness that gives 
much trouble is quite at a discount with
 such young men of the present day in   
,france4 ,a solitary workman1 a         
sentinel1 and an old soldier1 if near   
the ,hospital of the ,invalids1 are     
probably the only persons you will      
usually meet on the southern            
,boulevards1 except now and then ,i have
 seen a ladies' boarding-school thread  
its course beneath the thick foliage1   
whose mistress perchance selects a      
retired spot for giving her pupils a    
little air and exercise1 removed from   
the gaze of the city throng4  ,whatever 
pleasing impressions these shady        
retreats may have made upon the mind1 on
 re-entering ,paris they are soon       
dissipated2 if by the public streets1   
the variety of noises which assail the  
ear1 and the confusion of so many people
 bustling along upon a little bit of    
pavement not two feet wide1 gives you   

plenty of occupation both to make your  
way1 and get out of the way2 when1      
compelled to give place to some lady1   
you descend from the narrow flags into  
the road1 and whilst you are manoeuvring
 to escape a cart you see coming towards
 you1 ,gare is bawled out with stunning 
roar2 you look round and find the pole  
of a coach within an inch of your       
shoulder1 you scramble out of the way as
 fast as you can through mud and puddle1
 and are glad to clap your back against 
a house to make room for some lumbering 
vehicle1 where the naves of the wheels  
stick out with menacing effect1 happy to
 congratulate yourself that there is    
just room enough for it to pass without 
jamming you quite flat1 and that you are
 quit of the danger at the expense of   
being smeared with a little mud from the
 wheel2 this is the case in many of the 
streets in that part of ,paris called   
the ,cite1 and others which cross from  
the ,rue ,saint-,denis to the ,rue      
,saint-,martin and du ,temple etc4      

,happily for my readers1 it is not very 
probable that many of them will ever be 
called into those neighbourhoods1 or if 
they be1 it will probably be in a       
carriage1 when they will not stand near 
the same chance of being crushed to     
death2 but as ,i explore all parts and  
am thereby the better enabled to give a 
faithful picture of ,paris1 ,i consider 
it incumbent on me to inform my country 
people that there are such streets that 
they may better know how to enjoy ,paris
 by keeping out of the way of them4 ,to 
see ,paris to the best advantage it is  
requisite to get up early1 that is about
 three o'clock in the morning in the    
months of ,june or ,july1 before any one
 is stirring2 this indeed is pretty much
 the case with all cities1 but          
particularly the ,french capital1       
because the streets being very narrow   
and crowded1 you have not room to look  
up and look about4 ,paris in the old    
quarters at that hour1 or in a bright   
moonlight when all are at rest1 has the 

effect of a city composed of chateaux or
 castles joined together1 the height of 
the houses1 the great heavy porte       
cocheres1 the castellated style of the  
attic windows and often projecting      
turrets1 with the profusion of iron     
work1 combine in giving a degree of     
gloom that appears to tell a tale of    
olden time1 and many of the houses date 
as far back as ,charles the ,fifth1     
,sixth1 and ,seventh1 which is coeval   
with our ,henry the ,fourth1 ,fifth1 and
 ,sixth4 ,there is one house of which   
the ancient staircase still remaining is
 as old as the year #abbj2 it is        
situated in the ,rue du ,four1 near the 
,rue de la ,harpe1 and called the       
,maison ,blanche1 having been inhabited 
by the mother of ,saint-,louis1 but     
there is no doubt that the only part now
 standing that could have been built at 
that period is the staircase2 in the    
same neighbourhood are many objects that
 would interest the antiquary1 to which 
,i shall hereafter allude4 ,paris is    

encircled by a double row of            
,boulevards1 the north inner circle is  
that which is the most frequented2 the  
outer circle runs all along the walls   
which encompass ,paris1 where the       
barriers are situated1 of which there   
are fifty-six1 all rather handsome      
buildings than otherwise1 and no two of 
them quite alike4 ,many of the streets  
as you approach the farthest ,boulevards
 of ,paris have a very dull appearance1 
consisting in many instances of high    
walls and habitations separated from    
each other1 with market gardens behind1 
but which cannot be seen from the street
 as they are all enclosed1 and grass    
growing here and there in patches give  
them more the appearance of roads which 
have been abandoned than of inhabited   
streets4 ,some of the modern parts of   
,paris are extremely handsome and indeed
 all which has been built within the    
last five-and-twenty years4 ,the        
,chaussee-d',antin is the favourite     
quarter2 there the streets are of a fair

 width and are well paved1 and some very
 recently built are really beautiful1   
especially one just finished called the 
,rue ,tronchet1 just behind the         
,madeleine4 ,the quarter round the      
,place ,vendome is certainly one of the 
finest in ,paris1 and most decidedly the
 dearest4 ,i know persons who pay       
fourteen thousand francs a year for     
unfurnished lodgings in the ,place      
,vendome1 that is #fjjl4 a year2 a whole
 house in a fashionable quarter of      
,london may be had for the same money2  
indeed on the ,boulevards1 in some of   
the ,passages and the most fashionable  
streets in ,paris1 shops let for more   
money than in any part of ,london2 there
 is an instance of a single shop letting
 for #fjjl4 per annum1 and not one of   
particularly extensive dimensions1 but  
situated on the ,boulevard ,montmartre1 
which is perhaps the best position in   
,paris4 ,one of the greatest attractions
 is the ,passages1 something in the     
style of the ,burlington ,arcade but    

mostly superior2 of these there are from
 twenty to thirty1 so that in wet       
weather you may walk a considerable     
distance under cover4  ,the             
,palais-,royal1 the favourite resort of 
foreigners and provincials1 also affords
 that convenience4 ,although ,paris on  
the whole is not so regularly built as  
,london1 yet there is a sombre grandeur 
about it which has a fine effect1 owing 
in some degree to the large lofty houses
 of which it is composed2 the           
straightness1 width1 and neatness of the
 streets of ,london form its beauty1 but
 it is astonishing how foreigners when  
they first behold it1 are struck with   
the small size of the houses4 ,i        
remember entering ,london with an       
,italian gentleman who had ever before  
been accustomed to the large massive    
palaces of ,genoa1 ,florence1 etc41 and 
the first remark he made upon our grand 
metropolis was that it looked like a    
city of baby houses2 another feature in 
our dwellings does not please the       

foreign eye1 and that is the dingy      
colour of our bricks1 which certainly   
has not so light an appearance as stone1
 of which the houses on the ,continent  
are generally built4 ,the irremediable  
defect in ,paris is certainly the       
narrowness of the streets1 although     
every opportunity is turned to advantage
 by the government when houses are taken
 down to compel the proprietors to      
rebuild them in such a manner as to     
afford a yard more width to the public1 
whilst those streets that are at present
 constructing are on a magnificent plan4
 ,the great beauty of ,paris consists in
 its public monuments1 which certainly  
are not only very numerous1 but some    
upon the grandest scale1 independent of 
those which are generally conspicuous in
 a city2 the ,barriers and ,fountains   
form a considerable feature in ,paris   
amongst its ornaments4  ,the ,parisians 
generally are a remarkably persevering  
and industrious people1 amongst the     
trading classes1 particularly the women1

 who often take as ostensible a part in 
business as their husbands2 except that 
it is an establishment upon a very large
 scale1 the wife is usually the cashier1
 and you will find her as stationary at 
the counter almost as the counter       
itself4 ,the idea that exists in        
,england with respect to married women  
in ,france is quite erroneous1 for more 
domestic and stay at home is impossible 
to be1 that is amongst the middle       
classes2 the same remark applies to the 
lower orders4 ,as to the higher classes 
they never can be cited as forming a    
characteristic in any country2 receiving
 a highly finished education1 they are  
all brought to the same degree of       
polish1 and the primitive features are  
entirely effaced4 ,good nature is a very
 conspicuous trait in the ,french       
character1 and that is continually      
displayed towards any foreigner2 ask    
your way in the street in a polite      
manner1 and generally the persons become
 interested in your finding the place   

you want1 and if they do not know       
themselves1 they will go into a shop and
 enquire for you1 and not feel easy     
until they have ascertained it for you1 
but it depends much upon the manner in  
which you address them4 ,a ,doctor      
,smith related to me a circumstance     
which proves how different is the effect
 of a courteous and an uncourteous mode 
of speaking to a ,frenchman2 the ,doctor
 had with him a friend who was a regular
 ,john ,bull1 and they wishing to know  
their way to some place1 the latter     
stepped up to a butcher who was standing
 at his door and asked him in a very    
rough manner1 and received an evasive   
reply2 the ,doctor then put the same    
question to the man but in a more polite
 form1 the butcher replied1 ,if you will
 wait a minute1 ,sir1 ,i will put on my 
coat and show you the way1 which he did 
in the most good humoured manner1 but   
remarked to the ,doctor that every one  
in ,france liked to be treated as a     
fellow man1 and not to be spoken to as  

if they were brutes4 ,thus it appears   
that even butchers in ,france expect to 
be treated with some degree of          
politeness4  ,the women are still more  
tenacious in that respect than the men2 
they consider1 even down to a housemaid1
 that their sex demands a certain tone  
of deference1 however humble their      
position1 and if a nobleman did not     
touch his hat to them when they open or 
shut the door for them1 with the usual  
salutation of good day or good morning1 
they would pronounce his manners brutal1
 and say1 that although he was a man of 
title he was not a gentleman2 hence the 
very unceremonious manner that an       
,englishman has of addressing servants1 
whether male or female1 has kept them   
very much out of favour with that class 
of the ,french community4 ,a scullion1  
or what may be termed a girl of all     
work1 that has not met with that degree 
of respect from some of our countrymen  
to which she considered herself         
entitled1 will remark1 that the ,english

 may be very rich1 but they certainly   
are not enlightened as we are1 with a   
little drawing up of the head1 implying 
their consciousness of superiority over 
us semi-barbarians2 your charwoman1 your
 washerwoman's drudge1 fishwoman1 or    
girl that cries turf about the streets1 
are all ,madame and ,mademoiselle when  
they speak of each other1 and with them 
there is no such word as woman2 if a    
female1 she must be a lady1 even if her 
occupation be to pick up rags in the    
street4 ,the ,french women certainly    
excel in the art of dress and everything
 which appertains to the decoration of  
the person1 but the devotion which      
exists amongst them to that passion     
tends greatly towards frivolising the   
mind2 hence ,i find their inferiority1  
generally speaking1 to ,english women2  
in the latter you will often meet1 even 
amongst the middle classes1 with a girl 
who has received a good education2      
forming her pleasures from pursuits     
which are purely intellectual1 she will 

not only find enjoyment in that light   
reading merely calculated to amuse1 or  
that kind of music which consists of    
pretty quadrilles1 a few trifling songs1
 and two or three lessons adapted for   
the display of execution1 or that style 
of poetry and of painting which is      
something of the same nature1 just fit  
to please the fancy without touching the
 heart2 no1 you will find that she      
enters into the very soul of those      
mental recreations1 nor does that       
interfere with her domestic virtues2 she
 is equally capable of performing every 
social duty1 but she devotes not so     
considerable a portion of her time and  
thoughts to dress1 nor is she so totally
 absorbed in the anticipation and       
retrospection of balls and soirees1 to  
the exclusion of every other feeling1 as
 long as the season for parties         
continues1 which is but too much the    
case with females in ,paris1 except with
 those whose business or occupations    
prevent them from participating         

otherwise than very sparingly in the    
gaieties of that description2 but the   
class ,i allude to in ,france1 is that  
which consists of persons of independent
 fortune1 who have never been connected 
with anything in the shape of trade or  
even professions1 except army or navy1  
yet whose property is too small to      
estimate them as belonging to the higher
 classes1 whilst they would consider    
themselves as degraded by an association
 with even the richer tradespeople1     
generally coming under the denomination 
of middle classes4 ,this grade1         
immediately below the highest classes   
and above the middle1 is very numerous  
in ,paris1 their incomes varying from   
four hundred to a thousand a-year2 with 
the females in this class there is an   
exact resemblance to those of the class 
above1 only the sphere is more confined2
 their education finished1 they retain  
but little of what they have learned1   
except dancing1 singing1 and music1     
because they are calculated for display1

 and tell in society2 drawing is laid   
aside1 even after much proficiency had  
been acquired1 reading confined to the  
reviews of the popular works of the day1
 the inexhaustible subjects of          
conversation are the toilet1 which is   
pre-eminent1 balls1 soirees1 and public 
places2 if literature be introduced1 you
 will find their knowledge of it        
sufficient to escape the charge of      
ignorance1 particularly in history1 as  
great pains are now taken with their    
education1 and which certainly is of the
 best description1 whilst there is a    
grace and sweetness of manner which is  
highly captivating2 yet when you become 
well acquainted with these ladies1 whose
 surface was enchanting1 you find at    
last a want of soul4 ,as a proof how    
seldom ,i have found ,french females    
express any delight in beholding all the
 phenomena of an extensive and beautiful
 country1 and if the mind be dead to    
that charm1 how must it be lost to the  
enjoyments of descriptive poetry and    

painting1 as if the reality afford not  
pleasure how little can be derived from 
the representation2 ,i have found in    
,france many exceptions to this rule1   
women1 in fact1 whose society afforded a
 highly intellectual treat4 ,but they   
are rare1 and when one speaks of a      
people generally1 the mass must be      
stated and not the exceptions4 ,in      
,england1 even amongst the classes of   
the highest fashion1 many women are to  
be met with1 who1 notwithstanding that  
they are whirled about in ,london for   
months together to parties every night1 
sometimes to three or four in an        
evening1 to hear and say the nothings   
that pass current in assemblages of that
 description1 both deteriorating to     
health and mind1 yet on returning to    
their seats in the country1 whilst the  
husband is following the sports of the  
field1 the females will have recourse to
 intellectual occupations1 and cultivate
 those seeds of knowledge which had been
 instilled into their minds during their

 early youth1 thus conferring upon them 
those companionable powers1 which are   
the great charm of life2 the rural      
scenes around them call their pencils   
into practice1 whilst the true spirit of
 poetry constantly appears to their     
feelings in the forms of those beauties 
of nature which in fact are its life and
 soul4 ,embosomed in the calm retirement
 found in such retreats1 the various    
objects in view engender the love of    
reading2 hence the ,englishwoman        
recruits her mental powers after the    
frivolizing effects of a season in town4
 ,the ,frenchwoman goes into the country
 for the purpose of enjoying the fresh  
air1 she reads a little to kill time1   
and occupies much of it with her        
embroidery and other fancy works1 and   
after a short period passed amongst the 
vine-clad hills1 sighs once more to     
return to her dear ,paris1 complains of 
ennui1 wonders what the fashions will be
 at the next ,longchamp1 and whether    
they will be such as become her or not1 

but feeling herself bound to wear       
whatever may be pronounced the modes1   
and trusts to her taste to arrange it in
 such a manner as to set her off to the 
best advantage4  ,my countrywomen are   
not so much slaves to fashion and do not
 care to put on every thing that comes  
out1 if they think it does not suit     
them1 but it must be admitted that they 
have not the same taste as the ,french  
in regard to costume2 it is a quality   
that is peculiar to them1 and           
acknowledged by all the civilised world2
 in ,england1 ,russia1 even ,greece1    
ladies of the high ton must send to     
,paris for their hats and bonnets1 and  
have them from ,madame de ,barennes1 in 
the ,place ,vendome1 which is not merely
 an idea1 but a fact that they really   
are replete with that exquisite taste   
for which they are so justly famed2 even
 the manner in which her lofty and noble
 saloons are arranged display an        
elegance of conception1 there is a      
chasteness which pervades the whole1 the

 furniture as ,well as the decorations  
of the room are either of white or ebony
 and gold1 preserving that degree of    
keeping which is inseparable from a     
truly classical taste4  ,i must confess 
that the most refined1 the most charming
 and fascinating women that ,i ever met 
with1 were some ,english and ,irish     
ladies who had been some years in       
,france1 still retaining all those      
intellectual qualities which are the    
brightest gems of the ,british female   
character1 united with that quiet grace 
which has so much of dignity and ease1  
and that pleasing affability appearing  
but as nature in a truly elegant        
,frenchwoman2 at the same time ,i think 
my fair countrywomen are also much      
improved when they have acquired the    
same degree of taste in the arrangement 
of their costume for which the ,parisian
 females have so well merited a         
reputation4 ,of course in this          
comparison ,i am speaking of the most   
well-bred females of both countries4    

,although ,i do not find the ,french    
ladies possessing those high            
intellectual qualities1 which are in a  
great degree engendered and fostered by 
certain habits and early associations1  
,i do not conceive that the germs of    
talent are in the least deficient1 but  
on the contrary1 we find them excelling 
in literature and the arts1 in          
ingenuity1 and where exertion is        
required in trying circumstances1 that  
they are capable of heroism1 but there  
is a natural life and vivacity in the   
,french character that inclines not to  
study1 nor strict application1 unless   
the position in life renders it         
necessary4 ,the ,english very frequently
 are by nature disposed to reflection   
and even like often to be alone1        
consequently are undoubtedly a more     
thinking nation1 although not so        
brilliant1 but experience has proved    
that patient and undeviating            
perseverance1 ultimately1 outsteps the  
more showy and sparkling quality of     

genius4 ,for the sympathies of the heart
 ,i have found the ,french females most 
keenly alive1 no mothers can be more    
devotedly attached to their children    
than they are1 and it is repaid to them 
with interest by their offspring1 as a  
devotional affection towards parents is 
carried to an extreme2 in some instances
 ,i should say to a fault1 as a daughter
 in general looks up entirely to them1  
in regard to the man that they may      
choose with whom she is to pass the rest
 of her life1 without presuming that she
 ought to make a selection for herself1 
considering that her marriage is the    
affair of her parents1 and that she has 
but to obey their wishes in that1 as    
well as in all other cases2 hence it is 
rarely found that a ,french young lady  
has aught of romance in her composition1
 but is on the contrary the mild1       
docile1 obedient1 and affectionate      
pupil1 and often imitator of her mother4
 ,the ,english young lady is a little   
more rebellious2 possessing a more      

independent spirit1 she very soon takes 
the liberty of thinking for herself1    
particularly on that subject2 and could 
she totally have her will would act for 
herself also4 ,families are much more   
united in ,france than in ,england1 and 
agree together in a most astonishing    
manner2 thus when a daughter marries1   
instead of quitting her home1 the       
husband arranges his affairs so as to go
 and live with her parents1 and in many 
cases several families live together and
 form one little community1 which spares
 the pain of separation of parent and   
child4 ,the numerous offspring of the   
celebrated ,marquis de ,lafayette was a 
remarkable instance of how whole        
families can live and agree under the   
same roof2 at his seat called ,la       
,grange1 his married children and their 
children and grandchildren were all     
residing together1 whilst he1 like one  
of the ancient patriarchs1 was the      
revered head of his people4 ,i know a   
case at ,boulogne1 where in one house   

there are living together1 two great    
grandfathers1 one grandfather and       
grandmother1 two fathers and two mothers
 and their four children1 and what      
renders it more curious is that they are
 half ,english and half ,french1 but all
 connected by their sons and daughters  
intermarrying2 but strange to say that  
the ,english could not agree to live    
together in that manner1 and it is a    
most extraordinary circumstance much    
remarked by the ,french1 that wherever  
the ,english are settled in any town in 
,france1 they always contrive to quarrel
 with each other1 and find employment   
for the ,french lawyers2 at ,boulogne   
they have at least twice as much        
practice for the ,english as for the    
natives4  ,with regard to the conduct of
 the ,french towards foreigners1        
speaking from the long experience which 
,i have had1 ,i should certainly state  
that it was kind and attentive when     
brought into contact in travelling or   
from any other circumstances1 provided  

that a person does not attempt to       
support a haughty or supercilious air4  
,i do not consider that1 generally      
speaking1 the ,french are so hospitable 
as the ,english1 not only as regards    
foreigners but even amongst themselves2 
it is not so much their habit4 ,in many 
houses you may pass an hour or two of an
 evening1 and there will never be any   
question regarding refreshments2 not    
having the custom of taking tea of an   
evening1 that social bond which unites  
the family together at a certain hour in
 ,england not existing in ,france1      
little domestic evening parties seldom  
occur4 ,i have been to a few amongst    
what ,i call the very quiet families of 
,paris1 which are styled the demi       
fortunes1 and cakes1 beer1 wine1 sugar  
and water1 etc41 were given2 in the high
 fashionable parties tea now is always  
introduced at about twelve4 ,to ask a   
friend to a family dinner is not so much
 the practice in ,france as in ,england1
 as the custom existing in the former of

 having so many dishes with such a      
trifle in each1 the platters are often  
pretty well cleared by the usual inmates
 of the establishment1 and they are not 
prepared for an additional person4 ,with
 the ,english who are accustomed to     
large joints1 if two or three additional
 guests suddenly enter1 they are still  
prepared4 ,the ,french have also an idea
 that if they ask you to dinner that    
they must provide so great a variety1   
which entails infinitely more trouble   
than the more simple and more wholesome 
repast1 ,i should say1 of the ,english4 
,there is a great sympathy in ,france   
towards each other in their respective  
classes2 if a quarrel take place in the 
street between one of the lower and one 
of the middle class1 all that pass by of
 the former description will take the   
part of the individual of his own level2
 the same will be the case with the     
other classes1 often without inquiring  
into the merits of the case4 ,the       
impulse of feeling exists to a great    

degree amongst the ,french1 which is    
instantly displayed if a person falls or
 is taken ill in the street1 and much   
feeling is developed if any little      
accident or misfortune occurs to a poor 
person passing by4 ,i remember an       
instance of a woman who was trudging    
away with a basket of crockery and some 
eggs at the top1 a poor man who was     
carrying a load slipped1 and in his fall
 upset the woman and broke the greater  
part of her brittle goods2 in this case 
both being poor persons1 it became a    
knotty point for the ,french to decide2 
very long and very warm were the        
arguments adduced on both sides by the  
mob which had assembled1 the man        
declared he was too poor to have it in  
his power to pay for the damage which he
 had caused1 that he had hurt himself   
very much in the fall and found that    
quite misfortune enough for him4 ,the   
woman cried and vowed she could not     
afford to lose the value of the articles
 broken1 and the eggs belonged to       

another person who had given her the    
money to buy them1 and persisted that   
the man ought to pay for what he had    
broken1 although she admitted it was a  
very hard case for him2 what was to be  
done8 a subscription it was decided was 
the only means of settling the affair1  
and one person giving half a franc by   
way of example1 engaged to be collector1
 and from the different bystanders1 each
 giving a few sous1 the sum required was
 soon produced1 and all parties departed
 with the conviction that the affair had
 been equitably arranged4  ,the ,french 
are in the habit of rising extremely    
early1 especially the lower classes1 and
 even amongst the middle and higher     
ranks they are rarely so late in all    
their operations as the ,english4       
,persons in easy circumstances amongst  
the ,french generally take coffee1 with 
a piece of bread1 as soon as they are   
up1 and then breakfast a la fourchette  
about twelve1 which consists of soup1   
meat1 vegetables1 fruit1 and wine2 they 

dine about six or seven1 which is a     
repetition of the breakfast1 with       
greater variety and more abundance4     
,wine is drank throughout the dinner1   
and never after2 but light as their vin 
ordinaire generally is1 they always     
dilute it with water4 ,immediately after
 dinner1 coffee1 without milk or cream1 
is taken1 and lastly a glass of liqueur2
 no other repast is thought of until the
 following day1 as they neither take tea
 nor supper1 in their usual family      
habits4 ,but in cases of invitation it  
is quite another affair1 several        
different wines of superior quality are 
handed about at dinner1 with which they 
do not mix water1 and always ,champagne 
of course is drank without being        
diluted4 ,when they give a soiree1 a    
variety of refreshments are produced1 as
 different descriptions of cakes1 ices1 
orgeat and water1 punch1 warm wine1     
limonade1 etc41 according to the season 
of the year2 and often a supper is given
 on a very liberal scale4 ,dancing1     

music1 singing1 and cards form the      
amusements of the evening2 the games    
which are played are generally ecarte   
and whist4  ,the passion for dancing    
pervades all classes1 and even amongst  
the lowest orders they always find the  
means of gratifying themselves with that
 pleasure1 but in all their enjoyments  
down to the public-houses in the worst  
quarters of ,paris1 there is a degree of
 decorum which surprises an ,englishman 
accustomed to the extreme grossness of  
similar classes in our own country4     
,determined to see as much of life as ,i
 could in all its stages during a       
carnival1 accompanied by a countryman ,i
 visited many of the lowest order of    
wine houses where balls were going      
forward2 the only payment required for  
entrance was the purchase of a bottle of
 wine1 costing six sous4 ,we expected to
 see a good deal of uproarious mirth and
 all kinds of pranks going forward1 but 
were quite astonished to find the order 
that prevailed2 the men appeared as if  

they were in such a hurry for a dance   
that they had not waited until they     
washed their hands and faces1 but had   
just come directly from their work1     
although several of them had slipped on 
masquerade dresses2 the women were      
cleaner 7,i suspect they were not of the
 most immaculate description71 and were 
amusing themselves with quadrilles and  
waltzes alternately4 ,being of course   
very differently attired from the rest  
of the assemblage1 we were very         
conspicuous1 but they took no notice of 
us whatever2 if they happened to run    
against us whilst waltzing and whirling 
about1 they always said ,je vous 'mande 
pardon1 ,monsieur1 and nothing farther4 
,we observed that the men paid for the  
musicians two sous each dance and the   
women one1 and we came away rather      
disappointed at finding things so much  
more insipid than we expected2 we       
visited several houses of the same      
description and found the same sort of  
scene going forward in them all4 ,the   

working people in ,paris are extremely  
frugal in their mode of living2 bread   
being full seven-eighths of their food1 
what they eat with it varies according  
to the season2 if in summer1 mostly such
 fruit as happens to be ripe1 and       
perhaps once in the day they take a bit 
of soft white-looking cheese with their 
bread4 ,in winter they often add        
instead1 a little morsel of pork or     
bacon1 but more frequently stewed pears 
or roasted apples4 ,on ,sundays they    
always put the pot-au-feu1 as they call 
it1 which means that they make soup1 or 
literally translated1 that they put the 
pot on the fire4 ,henry ,,iv declared   
that he should not feel satisfied until 
he had so ameliorated the condition of  
the poor1 that every peasant should be  
able to have a fowl in his pot every    
,sunday2 had he not suddenly been cut   
off by assassination1 he might have     
lived to have seen his benevolent wish  
accomplished4 ,many of the wives of the 
working people contrive to muster some  

soup for their husbands when they get   
home at night1 and almost all manage to 
have a little wine in the course of the 
day4 ,on the ,sunday in the summer time 
they contrive to have a degree of       
pleasure1 and go to one of the houses   
round ,paris called guinguettes1        
something in the nature of the          
tea-gardens about ,london1 but in ,paris
 and most parts of ,france the husband  
takes his wife and even his children    
with him if they are old enough2 indeed1
 you generally see the whole train      
together4 ,at these houses they mostly  
take beer which is not very strong1 but 
they make it less so by mixing it with  
water1 as they do almost every beverage2
 sometimes they have wine1 lemonade1 or 
currant juice1 which is called          
groseille1 and that from the black      
currant cassis2 there they will sit     
looking at the dances1 in which they    
sometimes join1 and return home about   
ten o'clock4 ,this is pretty much the   
routine of a regularly conducted        

working-man in ,paris1 and it must be   
admitted that they form by far the      
greater number1 particularly those who  
are married4  ,amongst the              
middle-classes1 both husband and wife   
keep very steadily to business1         
particularly the latter1 and as they    
live frugally1 they generally calculate 
upon retiring from business in ten or   
twelve years1 and mostly effect their   
object1 as they are perfectly contented 
when they have amassed enough capital to
 produce three or four hundred a year1  
which is the case with the major part of
 them2 many are not satisfied until four
 or five times that sum2 but they are   
seldom ambitious1 nor care to get out of
 their class1 as the persons with whom  
they associate and are intimate1 are    
mostly relations and connexions to whom 
they are attached1 and do not seem to   
fancy any pleasure in extending their   
acquaintances4 ,but before they retire  
from business they have their occasional
 recreations2 in fine weather they are  

very fond of spending their ,sundays in 
the country2 in the winter they         
frequently visit the theatres1 but very 
rarely have company at home or pay      
visits1 except on the ,new ,year1 and in
 the ,carnival they give one ball1 and  
go to several others given by their     
relations2 this description alludes to  
what may be termed the respectable class
 of shopkeepers4 ,they have one means of
 communication with each other1 of which
 they avail themselves for the          
advantages of business or for the       
purpose of recreation1 if they choose1  
which consists of what they term        
,cercles1 much the same as we should    
call clubs2 they are establishments     
composed of perhaps #aej members1 more  
or less1 who meet in a suite of         
apartments fitted up for the purpose1   
and certainly most elegantly1 both as   
regards the decoration of the rooms and 
the furniture they contain4 ,a clerk is 
employed1 whose business it is to       
collect information as to the different 

merchants who arrive at ,paris from the 
various parts of ,france and other      
countries2 they find out the particular 
branch in which he deals1 and that      
member whose business it is to vend the 
commodity likely to be demanded1 sends  
him a programme of his goods and his    
terms4 ,if any one receive a commission 
from any country which is not in his    
department1 he proclaims it to the      
,cercle1 and gives a fellow-member the  
benefit of the order2 thus they play    
into each other's hands and greatly     
promote their mutual interests4         
,billiard-tables are fitted up for the  
amusement of the members1 who also      
occupy themselves with other games1     
whilst refreshments are to be had the   
same as in a coffee-house4 ,there are   
many of these establishments in ,paris1 
which afford great facilities for the   
promotion of business4 ,although the    
extraordinary increase of trade in      
,paris is almost incredible1 yet the    
bankrupts are more numerous than they   

were formerly2 one reason is1 on account
 of the number of persons in each       
business having so much increased1 and  
the immense expenses which they incur in
 the embellishment of their shops to try
 and outvie each other4 ,a person taking
 a place in the ,palais ,royal about    
three years since1 first gave the       
occupier #dj1jjj francs 7#a1fjjl47 to   
quit1 and then expended #aaj1jjj francs 
7#d1djjl47 in fitting it up as a        
restaurateur's2 the rent being high in  
proportion1 the success was not         
commensurate with the expenditure and   
the speculation failed4 ,this is one of 
the many instances which have recently  
occurred at ,paris1 causing bankruptcy2 
yet some persons have laid out more than
 double the amount in the decorations   
for restaurateurs and coffee-houses1 and
 yet have succeeded4  ,the occupations  
of the higher classes in ,paris are much
 the same as they are in other capitals2
 both sexes are more fond of taking     
baths than they are in ,london1 and even

 when they have that convenience in     
their own houses1 the men often prefer  
lounging to the most fashionable public 
baths4 ,the young sparks of fashion are 
very fond of sumptuous breakfasts at the
 most stylish coffee-houses in ,paris1  
and often begin by taking a few dozen of
 oysters by way of giving them an       
appetite2 beefsteaks dressed in the     
,english style1 a few choice ,french    
dishes1 two or three sorts of wine1     
desert1 and coffee1 generally compose   
the repast until the dinner hour4 ,the  
time is filled up with walking1 riding1 
driving1 practising gymnastic exercises1
 pistol-shooting1 fencing1 etc4 ,after  
dinner1 which usually terminates about  
eight1 and is in fact the same thing as 
the breakfast on a more extensive scale1
 they proceed to the theatres2 those    
most in vogue with the beau monde are   
the ,italian ,opera1 the ,french ,opera 
or ,academie de ,musique1 the ,comic    
,opera1 and the ,theatre ,francais4     
,after the performances are over1 they  

generally lounge into some favourite    
coffee-house1 and then close the day to 
recommence another1 following much the  
same course1 with some trifling         
variation4 ,but now the favourite       
pursuit amongst young men of fashion1 is
 that of riding and every thing which is
 connected with horses1 such as racing1 
leaping1 steeple chasing1 and discussing
 their different qualities and the      
various modes of breaking them in1 in   
,england and in ,france4  ,but there is 
no subject upon which there is so much  
difference of opinion between the two   
nations as upon that of equestrian      
exercises and the management and        
training of horses4 ,our bold           
fox-hunters and daring steeple chasers1 
,i am aware1 will not for an instant    
imagine that there are any riders to be 
found equal to ,englishmen1 whilst the  
,french1 although they give us credit   
for doing many things better than       
themselves1 do not at all admire our    
horsemanship4 ,they admit that our good 

riders are not easily thrown1 and keep  
their seat under many difficult and     
dangerous circumstances1 but they       
contend that the ,english generally have
 not sufficient command over their      
horses in making them obey every wish of
 the rider1 whilst the accomplished     
,french cavalier will make his horse go 
backwards1 sideways1 right1 or left1 in 
a direct line1 will cause him to stop in
 an instant whilst at full speed1 will  
make him bear on his near or off leg    
just as he chooses1 or make him place   
either foot on a five franc piece1 and  
in fact have the same command over his  
horse as if it were his child4 ,there   
are many riding-masters now in ,paris of
 superior talent1 but for rendering his 
pupils dauntless horsemen1 capable of   
mounting any animal however restive1 ,i 
do not think that any can be found to   
surpass ,m4 de ,fitte4 ,i have seen him 
place his best pupils upon a horse1     
which upon signals given1 will rear upon
 his hind or his forelegs1 changing from

 one to the other with such rapidity and
 in such constant succession that the   
rider cannot the least foresee what     
prank the horse is about to play1 and   
therefore cannot be prepared for what he
 has to encounter1 whilst he is seated  
on a saddle without stirrups or bridle1 
as with folded arms he defies every     
manoeuvre his steed essays to throw him4
 ,the riding-school of ,mr4 ,fitte is at
 ,no4 #aac1 rue ,montmartre1 next to the
 great establishment of the ,messageries
 royales1 from whence depart the        
diligences for all parts of ,france4 ,he
 has always about forty horses of       
different countries and descriptions2   
amongst them are some especially trained
 for ladies1 and such as will be found  
well adapted to the most bold and the   
most timid rider1 which he lets out at  
very moderate terms4  ,any person must  
feel gratified at being present when he 
gives his evening lessons to his pupils1
 as amongst other exercises he practises
 them in what is called the jeu de      

bague1 which consists of rings loosely  
suspended from a post1 whilst the rider 
carries a lance1 and in passing by at   
full gallop endeavours to run it through
 the ring1 which is about two inches in 
diameter1 and is hung in such a manner  
that it yields to the lance and remains 
upon it whilst the rider1 without       
stopping1 proceeds at full speed and    
takes off the next4 ,two persons are    
generally exercised together at this    
game1 and he who takes off the most     
rings wins4 ,it is a useful practice now
 adopted in almost all the              
riding-schools in ,paris1 as it teaches 
the pupil to forget his seat1 giving him
 another object to occupy his mind1 till
 at last the young pupil feels as easy  
upon a horse at full gallop as seated in
 his chair1 his whole attention being   
directed towards taking off more rings  
with his lance than his competitor4 ,mr4
 ,fitte during the lesson also himself  
displays what can be done with different
 horses1 in giving them that sort of    

motion which he thinks proper1 which is 
principally produced by operating upon  
the animal with the muscles of the      
calves of the legs1 of which the ,french
 avail themselves much more in the      
management of a horse than the ,english4
  ,it appears quite a new era in the    
annals of horsemanship that an approved 
,english riding-master should come over 
to ,france to place himself for two     
years under a ,french riding-master1 yet
 such ,i know to be the case4 ,mr4      
,f4,w41 the person to whom ,i allude1   
had long been accustomed to mount horses
 of all descriptions1 with the full     
confidence of always being able to keep 
his seat2 but when at ,paris he met with
 a master who could not only defy any   
horse to throw him1 but under all       
circumstances could always preserve a   
graceful position1 even while baffling  
every attempt of a horse to floor him4  
,in order to try the capabilities of    
,mr4 ,w41 the ,french master placed him 
on all kinds of horses1 and amongst the 

rest those which had been taught all    
sorts of tricks to fling their riders1  
but ,w4 resisted all their attempts1 but
 it was by keeping his seat in his own  
way1 which he knew had an awkward air1  
when compared to the graceful mien the  
,frenchman preserved throughout the same
 evolutions4  ,another art he strove    
also to acquire from his master1 that of
 dominating the most vicious horse to a 
degree that shall render it so docile   
that any moderate horseman may mount it 
in safety4 ,this was effected by the    
,french riding-master 7with whom ,w4    
placed himself71 under the most         
extraordinary circumstances2 a horse was
 offered him of extreme beauty1 but so  
totally unmanageable that it had been   
given up by three rough riders of       
regiments in ,england1 and was almost   
considered as worthless1 as no one could
 be found to ride it2 the ,frenchman    
undertook in one year so to tame its    
restive spirit as to render it a        
valuable horse for any rider4 ,the owner

 quitted ,france1 but agreed to return  
in a twelvemonth1 when they were to     
divide the amount of what the horse     
might sell for2 but it so happened that 
the owner did not return for eighteen   
months1 and when the twelvemonth had    
expired the riding-master considered the
 horse his own and sold it to ,franconi 
for #bj1jjj francs 7#hjjl471 having so  
completely taught the horse to obey its 
master1 as to make it dance to music1 to
 bear upon which leg he chose to        
dictate1 and in fact to do more than ,i 
shall venture to state1 as were ,i to   
give an accurate description it must    
appear an exaggeration1 having met with 
several ,englishmen who with myself have
 declared they never could have         
believed1 had they not had ocular       
demonstration1 that a horse could have  
been taught to do that which the animal 
in question has nightly exhibited at    
,franconi's4 ,when the owner did return1
 he claimed the half of the value the   
horse had fetched1 but the riding-master

 pleaded that the contract was annulled 
by his not making his claim at the time 
agreed upon between them2 the other     
persisting in his demand1 the affair was
 referred to a ,court of ,justice1 and  
decided in favour of the riding-master1 
and it is said that ,franconi has since 
refused #dj1jjj francs for the horse4   
,there is one peculiarity in the        
,english style of riding which is       
remarked all over the ,continent1 and   
that is1 the rising in the saddle1 or   
what is termed1 adopting one's own      
motion1 instead of that of the horse1   
which is certainly much rougher and not 
so agreeable1 and for my own part ,i    
have found it a great relief when upon a
 long journey2 of course it is never    
adopted by our cavalry1 and the ,french 
contend that to sit as close as         
possible1 partaking of the motion of the
 horse1 as soon as the rider is         
accustomed to it he will travel farther1
 and with less fatigue than by what is  
termed the ,english method4 ,m4 de      

,fitte however thinks differently from  
his countrymen in that respect4 ,it is  
also considered that in both our riding 
and driving we rein in our horses far   
too much1 the consequence being that the
 animal1 accustomed to be held up by the
 rider or driver1 depends upon it1 as   
what is called his fifth leg1 and if    
there be any negligence in thus         
sustaining him1 he immediately trips and
 often comes to the ground2 whereas the 
horse who is habituated to a looser rein
 goes more boldly1 depending on the     
powers nature has given him1 and carries
 his head lower1 and of course sees his 
ground better1 avoiding that which might
 occasion a false step2 and certainly   
the horses in ,france very seldom fall1 
except in frost or snow1 when strange to
 say the ,french have never had the wit 
to have them rough-shod4                
,notwithstanding all that is said upon  
the subject ,i have found the advantage 
of keeping a tighter rein upon my horse 
than they are in the habit of practising

 in ,turkey1 as although in a journey   
which ,i had of seven hundred miles on  
horseback in that country they found    
great fault with my riding1 yet ,i kept 
my seat1 and my horse upon his legs1    
without once coming to the ground1 when 
the ,tatar1 the ,surdjee1 and my        
travelling companion were alternately   
prostrated from the falling of their    
horses1 which ,i attribute to their not 
being able to check them in time when   
they tripped1 to prevent their totally  
sprawling2 it is true that some parts of
 the road could only be compared to a   
street having been unpaved and all the  
stones left loose upon the ground over  
which we had to ride1 consequently ,i   
took the greatest care1 never for an    
instant neglecting any precaution to    
keep my hack from stumbling4 ,but where 
a horse is liable to come upon his      
knees1 certainly the system of rising in
 the saddle is most unsafe1 and ,i never
 met with any one who could better teach
 his pupils to sit close and firm even  

with the roughest trot than ,m4 de      
,fitte1 who1 not content with precept1  
himself furnishes the example4 ,amongst 
his pupils1 are many of the fair sex as 
the ,french ladies are now beginning to 
imitate the gentlemen in their passion  
for equestrian exercises1 and frequently
 in the ,champs-,elysees and ,bois de   
,boulogne display the progress they have
 made in the art4  ,although their      
pursuits are not so numerous nor so     
various as those of the men1 yet their  
opportunities of killing time are       
greater2 as shopping alone employs often
 some hours of the day1 the importance  
attached to a bonnet1 a cap1 a turban   
and above all to a dress1 causes many   
and long dissertations4 ,exhibitions and
 morning concerts frequently occupy also
 much of the ladies' leisure1 a little  
walking in the ,tuileries gardens at a  
certain hour and in a certain part      
whilst their carriage waits for them1 an
 airing in it1 or a turn on horseback1  
fill up the rest of the day1 and after  

dinner1 if not at the theatre1 they     
either receive or pay visits1 as it is  
the fashion to do so of an evening in   
,paris4  ,i must not quit this sketch of
 the ,parisians and their occupations   
without giving my readers some idea of  
what is called ,la ,jeune ,france1 which
 consists of a number of young men1 who 
wear comical shaped hats1 their hair    
very long hanging below their ears1 and 
let the greater part of their beards    
grow2 they also have their throats bare 
and their shirt collars turned down2    
they have rather a wild look1 and their 
political theories are somewhat wilder  
than their looks2 they are republican in
 principle1 and in manner1 adopting a   
sort of rough abrupt style1 as far from 
courteous as can well be imagined4 ,they
 amount to perhaps a few thousands in   
,paris1 comprising a number of the      
students in law and medicine1 many of   
the painters1 musical professors1 and at
 least half the literary characters in  
,paris2 some of them are either the     

editors their subs or the communicators 
to two-thirds of the newspapers at      
,paris4 ,i must do them the justice to  
say that ,i believe they mean well1 and 
that they are actuated by pure          
principles of patriotism1 full of       
candour and of courage1 but mistaken in 
their views1 led away by false notions  
imbibed from an enthusiastic admiration 
of the deeds of heroes1 recorded in the 
histories of ,rome and ,greece1 until   
they imagine that they are bound in     
modern days to re-enact the glorious    
examples of their progenitors in their  
self devotion for their country2 hence  
the wonderful resistance that they made 
in #ahcb1 which although in a bad cause1
 proved their contempt for life1 and how
 ready they were to risk it in what they
 falsely thought their country's cause4 
,but as they get older and reflect more1
 they become more temperate in their    
mode of reasoning1 at present1 and      
indeed for some time past1 they have    
been more calm and one hears less of    

them4     ,,chapter ,v4       ,anecdotes
 illustrative of the ideas1 feelings1   
and characters of      the ,parisians1  
also narrating some of their most       
striking national      peculiarities4   
,the ,french generally have been        
celebrated for possessing no            
inconsiderable share of conceit1 but in 
regard to a most exalted respect for    
themselves1 the ,parisians far surpass  
all their provincial brethren2 the very 
circumstance of their happening to be   
born in ,paris1 they imagine at once    
confers upon them a diploma of the very 
highest acme of civilisation1 causing   
them to feel a sort of pity for a person
 who is born elsewhere2 however1 as one 
of these enlightened spirits once       
observed to me1 that a person might by  
coming to live at ,paris in the course  
of time imbibe the same tone of         
refinement4 ,now this was said in all   
the true spirit of human kindness2 he   
knew that ,i was not born in ,paris1 and
 conceiving that ,i might feel the      

bitterness of that misfortune1 though it
 might afford me a degree of consolation
 to be assured1 that there were some    
means of repairing the disadvantages    
under which ,i laboured1 from not having
 made my entrance to the world in the   
grand metropolis of ,france4  ,it       
matters not how low may be the calling  
of a ,parisian1 he will still flatter   
himself that the manner in which he     
acquits himself in the department in    
which he is placed1 evinces a degree of 
superiority over his fellow labourer1   
and gratifies his amour propre with the 
thought4 ,even a scavenger would        
endeavour to persuade you that he has a 
peculiar manner of sweeping the streets 
exclusively his own1 and that his method
 of shovelling up the mud and pitching  
it into the cart is quite unique1 and in
 fact that his innate talent is such    
that1 it has eventually placed him at   
the summit of his profession4 ,this may 
appear1 perhaps1 to some of my readers  
rather overdrawn1 but the following     

instance which came under my own        
observation is not much less            
extravagant4  ,a man who was in the     
habit of cleaning my boots1 had a most  
incorrigible propensity for garrulity1  
and as ,i like in a foreign country to  
obtain some insight into the ideas and  
feelings of all classes1 ,i did not care
 to check the poor fellow in the        
indulgence of his favourite penchant1   
particularly as his remarks were always 
proffered with a tone of the most       
profound respect for my august person4  
,finding one morning that my boots had  
not been polished quite so well as      
usual1 the next time ,i saw the         
shoeblack ,i mentioned the circumstance 
to him4 ,ah6 ,sir1 he exclaimed with a  
deep sigh1 that is one of the many      
instances of the ingratitude of human   
nature2 ,i confided those boots to the  
boy whom you must have seen come with me
 to fetch yours and the other           
gentlemen's shoes or clothes for        
brushing1 etc4 ,well1 sir1 that young   

urchin is a protege of mine2 ,i took    
him1 sir1 from the lowest obscurity and 
made him what he is2 ,i taught him my   
profession1 ,i endowed him with all the 
benefit of my experience1 and with      
respect to blacking shoes1 ,i have      
initiated him into all the little       
mysteries of the art1 and can declare   
that there is not one in the business   
throughout all ,paris that can surpass  
him1 when he chooses to exert his       
talents2 and therefore it renders it the
 more unpardonable that he should slight
 one of my best customers4 ,judging1 ,i 
suppose1 from the expression of my      
countenance that ,i did not appear to be
 deeply infused with a very exalted idea
 of what he termed the mysteries of his 
art1 he continued1 ,you may think as you
 please1 sir1 but there is much more    
ability required in blacking shoes than 
you may imagine1 and that boy is well   
aware of it2 he knows how ,i began by   
first instructing him in all the        
fundamental principles of the art2 and  

gradually led him on until ,i           
accomplished him in giving the last     
polish1 and can now proudly say he is a 
true artist in the profession4  ,on     
entering a diligence once at ,lyons1 ,i 
found two persons in it1 of very decent 
aspect2 the one a middle aged man1 the  
other a youth of about eighteen or      
nineteen2 the former soon found an      
opportunity of informing me that he was 
a ,parisian1 but lest that should not   
adequately impress me with a            
sufficiently high idea of his           
importance1 he added that he was chef de
 cuisine to the ,duke of ----1 and that 
,monsieur1 pointing to the youth        
opposite1 was an aspirant1 who had been 
placed under his auspices4 ,the young   
man bowed assent1 and appeared most     
sensibly to feel the vast magnitude of  
the honours to which he was aspiring2   
but the whole was announced with such an
 air of solemnity and consequence1 that 
a minister of state with his secretary  
would never have attempted to assume4   

,an ,englishman under the same          
circumstances would have merely said1 ,i
 am head cook to the ,duke of ---- and  
that young man is my 'prentice4         
,however1 my travelling companions were 
overpoweringly civil1 and ,i of course  
was deeply awed by finding myself in    
company with such elevated personages1  
of which they no doubt were sensible1   
and where we stopped for dinner they    
gave us the benefit of their            
professional talent1 by entering the    
kitchen1 giving the inmates to          
understand who they were1 and the       
advantage of advice gratis1 as to the   
arrangement of such dishes for which    
they were still in time to superintend2 
and when we sat down at the table       
d'hote1 the chef de cuisine did not fail
 to inform me that he had done as much  
as laid in his power to ensure our      
having a good dinner1 as my being a     
foreigner he was particularly anxious   
that ,france should sustain her high    
reputation for the culinary art in my   

estimation2 but regretted that in the   
first place he arrived too late to      
effect much good1 and indeed1 had he    
come before it would have been but of   
little avail2 for the provincials were  
such complete barbarians1 that it was   
difficult for an enlightened person to  
commune with them3 that absolutely he   
and they appeared to be quite of another
 species4  ,it is a happy circumstance  
for the ,french1 that their pride does  
not consist in a desire to get out of   
their station1 but an extreme anxiety to
 exaggerate the importance of the       
station in which they are placed2 a     
cook1 for example1 has the most exalted 
idea of the art of cookery1 and wishes  
to impress everyone with the same idea  
of its high importance1 and all his     
ambition is to be considered a cook of  
the first-rate talent4 ,in ,england it  
is different1 one of the great objects  
with a tradesman is the hope1 that by   
making his fortune he shall be enabled  
to get out of his class and take a      

higher walk in society4 ,for this       
purpose they bring their sons up to the 
liberal professions1 and often retire   
into the country at a distance from     
,london1 where they flatter themselves  
that the circumstance of their having   
been in business may not travel2 their  
plan seldom succeeds1 but has in several
 instances when they have come over to  
,france1 as being rich1 appearing       
respectable1 and their children highly  
educated1 they have obtained the entree 
to ,french society1 which has ultimately
 led to that of the ,english4 ,i        
remember one instance of a hatter       
marrying his five daughters to persons  
of the higher classes1 three to ,english
 and two to ,french1 who now with their 
father have that position in society1   
into which at one period he never could 
have dreamed of entering2 had they      
remained in ,england1 they would have   
had but little chance of emerging from  
their original station1 even with the   
aid of all their wealth4  ,street scenes

 often afford amusing exhibitions of    
natural characteristics2 ,i remember one
 which ,i witnessed1 which developed a  
feeling truly ,french2 two              
common-looking men had been disputing   
for some time1 when one upbraided the   
other with want of delicacy and not     
having a nice sense of honour1 but      
finding his reproaches made but little  
impression upon the accused1 at last    
said1 ,as ,i see you are destitute of   
any mental susceptibility1 ,i must try  
if you have any bodily feeling1 and     
thrash you as ,i would a dog or any     
other brute4 ,so saying1 he advanced to 
put his threat into execution1 but the  
assailed proving far the strongest1 soon
 overcame the assailant and laid him    
prostrate2 rising from the ground1 he   
regarded the conqueror with a dignified 
air1 and said1 ,yes6 you have the       
physical force1 but ,i have the force of
 reason1 and with a flourish of the head
 he strutted off with as triumphant a   
demeanour as if he had vanquished a host

 of enemies4  ,the ,french are          
exceedingly fond of moralizing2 a few   
days before the ,revolution occurred1   
whilst a man was driving me through the 
,place de la ,concorde1 ,i observed a   
scaffolding in the middle1 and asked    
what it was for1 and having informed me 
that it was for the purpose of erecting 
a statue of ,louis the ,sixteenth1 being
 the spot in which he was beheaded1 he  
exclaimed1 ,what an absurdity6 but those
 ,bourbons are incorrigible2 would it   
not be much better to let such events as
 those sink as much as possible into    
oblivion1 instead of endeavouring to    
perpetuate them4 ,one would have        
thought1 continued he1 that the         
adversity and exile which that besotted 
family had endured would have operated  
upon them as a lesson1 but they will    
never benefit from any lessons2 one1    
however1 will be tried upon them very   
soon1 if they do not mind what they are 
about1 and we shall see what impression 
that will make4 ,the man's words came to

 pass1 they did indeed receive a severe 
lesson1 which involved them in ruin and 
disgrace4  ,having observed a number of 
persons assembled on the ,boulevards1 ,i
 asked the cause1 and was told that some
 cavalry was expected to pass in a few  
minutes1 for which the people were      
waiting4 ,i took my station amongst     
them1 which happened to be next to two  
bakers' boys1 who were in earnest       
conversation1 when ,i was edified by the
 following observations4 ,do you know   
why ,alphonse left his place8 ,yes1     
replied the other1 because his master   
gave him a cuff on the head4 ,that      
certainly was a very great indignity2   
observed the younger2 to receive a blow 
is very humiliating4 ,that is true1     
replied the other1 but figure to        
yourself the folly of a lad1 for the    
sake of a paltry thump1 to sacrifice all
 his future prospects2 in a few years1  
had he put up with the insult1 he might 
have been head man in a bakehouse in the
 ,rue ,st4 ,denis1 which is one of the  

most populous quarters in ,paris4 ,true1
 said the younger1 it would have been   
wiser to have sayed2 but when excited1  
reason does not always come to one's    
aid4  ,i have translated the discourse  
as literally as ,i could1 that ,i might 
preserve as nearly as possible the      
expressions which the boys used1 as it  
has often struck me how much more       
refined they are1 than those to which   
lads of the same age and class would    
have had recourse in ,england4  ,some of
 the scenes at the tribunals are very   
amusing2 ,i remember a very rough       
ferocious-looking man having been       
brought up for returning to ,paris1 from
 which he had been sent away on account 
of some offences which he had committed1
 and was ordered to some small obscure  
town in the provinces1 under            
surveillance4 ,finding his banishment   
very irksome1 an irresistible impulse   
brought him back to ,paris1 and         
repairing to his old haunts1 he sought  
the ,rue de la ,mortellerie1 which had  

in part been pulled down1 on account of 
some improvements which were going      
forward2 whilst he was gaping about1    
looking in vain for his dear ,rue de la 
,mortellerie1 he was recognised by a    
,serjeant of police and very unwillingly
 lodged in the ,corps de ,garde         
7guard-house71 and brought before the   
,tribunal of ,correction2 he was        
interrogated as to his having dared1 in 
defiance of the law1 to return to       
,paris4 ,he replied1 indeed1 ,monsieur  
le ,president1 ,i was so overcome with  
ennui1 that ,i found it impossible to   
exist there any longer2 now1 only       
imagine for an instant1 ,m4 le          
,president1 the idea of a ,parisian1 as 
,i am1 to be sent to a little bit of a  
place where there was no theatre1 no    
promenade1 not even a public monument4  
,he was interrupted by the ,president   
telling him1 that whatever the place    
might have been1 there he should have   
staid to the end of his time1 and must  
be punished for returning to ,paris4    

,but1 continued the delinquent1 the vile
 little hole to which ,i was exiled     
contained no society whatever1 the      
inhabitants were merely a set of        
illiterate beings1 and how could any    
enlightened person vegetate amongst such
 a mic-mac of semi-barbarians2 but tell 
me1 ,m4 le ,president1 what has become  
of the ,rue de la ,mortellerie8         
,without deigning to answer1 the        
,president was proceeding to condemn the
 prisoner1 when interrupted by his      
exclaiming1 ,now ,i intreat1 ,m4 le     
,president1 that you who are no doubt a 
very enlightened personage1 would only  
place yourself in my position1 and      
conceive how it was possible to exist   
buried alive as it were among such a set
 of ,goths1 and above all do tell me    
what has become of my ,rue de la        
,mortellerie8  ,the ,president1 out of  
all patience1 sentenced him to          
imprisonment in one of the goals of     
,paris for three years4  ,well1 said the
 garrulous and incorrigible offender1 ,i

 shall have one satisfaction1 that of   
knowing that ,i am still in ,paris1 that
 seat of the arts1 that centre of       
civilisation1 and terrestrial paradise2 
but pray tell me1 ,m4 le ,president1    
before we part1 do tell me what have    
they done with my dear ,rue de la       
,mortellerie8 ,without affording him    
time to occupy the court any longer with
 his irrelevant questions and           
explanations1 they hurried him away1    
whilst he continued to murmur what could
 possibly have gone with his dear ,rue  
de la ,mortellerie which was no other   
than a little narrow filthy street which
 it would be difficult to match in the  
worst neighbourhoods in ,london4  ,i    
also recollect an instance of the       
deliberate coolness of a man who was    
tried and found guilty of the robbery   
and murder of a farmer2 being asked if  
he knew his accomplice1 he observed ,as 
to knowing him1 ,m4 le ,president1 that 
is more than ,i can say2 you must be    
aware that it is extremely difficult to 

know a person1 you may have seen a      
person often1 and even conversed with   
him for years1 and yet never know him4  
,are you acquainted with him1 was the   
next question4  ,as to that1 continued  
the prisoner1 ,i am a man who has very  
few acquaintances1 being naturally of a 
reserved character and rather diffident 
in my nature1 ,i shrink from entering   
much into society2 being of a reflecting
 habit1 ,i like often to pass my hours  
alone1 having rather an indifferent     
opinion of human nature4  ,how long he  
would have gone on in the same strain1  
it is impossible to say1 when he was    
imperatively demanded if he knew him by 
name1 by sight1 and had talked1 or      
walked1 or ate1 or drank with him4      
,really you put so many questions to me 
at once that you tax my memory beyond   
its means2 ,i never was celebrated for  
having a very retentive memory1 my      
mother used to say4  ,the court out of  
patience again interrupted him1 but with
 all their efforts could never elicit   

from him a direct answer2 but the       
circumstantial and testimonial evidence 
being perfectly convincing1 he and his  
accomplice were condemned to death4     
,when he heard the sentence he very     
coolly asked which would be guillotined 
first2 he was answered that the other   
would1 and that it was to be hoped that 
the sight of his companion's fate might 
bring him to some sense of his awful    
situation4 ,when the time arrived for   
their execution1 he displayed the same  
imperturbable audacity2 as his          
accomplice was about to suffer1 he      
elbowed the person who was standing next
 to him1 and pointing to his fellow     
criminal1 he smiled and said1 ,look1    
poor wretch1 he is afraid1 ,i declare he
 even trembles4 ,when it came to his    
turn he mounted the ladder with as      
cheerful an air as if he was merely     
going to his breakfast1 and to the last 
moment preserved the same sang-froid4   
,a brutal sort of fellow1 who was once  
condemned for an assault1 in an instant 

snatched off his wooden shoes and threw 
them at the head of the ,president1 who 
it appears had a good eye for avoiding a
 shot1 and managed to escape the        
missiles4  ,sometimes the avocats       
7barristers7 avail themselves of causes 
in which they are engaged1 so as to     
render them vehicles for displaying     
their wit or humour1 and afford much    
amusement to the court2 a case some time
 since occurred which excited much      
interest and some mirth and             
entertainment2 the parties concerned    
were a ,madame ,dumoulin who had        
invented stays of a peculiar nature4    
,another person who was ,english styling
 herself the inventor1 and making them  
in the same manner1 notwithstanding the 
former had been granted a patent1 an    
action was the consequence4 ,it was     
observed that the hostile parties in    
this instance1 although ,french and     
,english1 were neither decked with      
helmets nor armed with pistols1 swords1 
nor muskets1 but entered the scene of   

combat in long shawls and velvet        
bonnets1 announcing themselves without  
the aid of heralds1 the one representing
 the ,french army the other the ,english
 host4 ,the champion on the side of the 
former being a ,monsieur ,ch4 ,ledru1   
against whom ,monsieur ,ducluseau       
entered the lists on the ,british side  
of the question2 what made it more      
remarkable1 was1 that the belligerents  
resided in the same street1 the         
residence of ,m4 ,ducluseau1 the        
advocate for the ,english defendant1    
merely separating the mansions of the   
two combatants4  ,victory declared for  
,madame ,dumoulin after many subtle and 
learned arguments were adduced on both  
sides1 and an ,english lady1 the mother 
of several daughters1 tells me if ,i    
have any regard for my fair countrywomen
 ,i must recommend to their notice the  
stays of ,madame ,dumoulin1 truly       
observing that as the object of my work 
was to render every possible service to 
all my readers1 certainly the ladies    

must have a pre-eminent claim1 and      
although there are certain articles of  
the toilet with which it might be       
observed man should never meddle1 as he 
could not be any judge of such          
habiliments as ought only to be worn by 
the ladies1 and a few dandies who are   
neither one thing nor the other1 yet    
when three scientific societies         
condescend to award medals to the       
inventor and patentee of the articles   
alluded to1 ,i trust ,i shall be        
pardoned if with an intention to serve  
the fair sex ,i trench upon their       
privilege in calling their attention to 
the useful and ornamental corsets1 which
 have caused so much controversy4       
,these stays are so contrived as to be  
totally without gussets1 and adapt      
themselves to the form with such perfect
 facility1 that there is not that       
restraint which1 instead of bestowing   
grace to the female figure1 is rather   
calculated to deform1 that1 which1 if   
left in a degree to nature1 would have  

displayed both elegance and ease4 ,as an
 artist accustomed to contemplate the   
beauty of feature and of form1 ,i have  
often regretted that common error into  
which such numbers of females fall1 by  
torturing themselves in tightening the  
waist to such an unnatural degree1      
confining the person as it were in a    
vice1 and totally preventing that       
movement in the person1 which is        
indispensable in giving that elasticity 
in walking which alone can produce a    
graceful carriage1 devoid of that       
stiffness which is ever occasioned by   
too great a restraint4 ,the stays       
invented by ,madame ,dumoulin are       
universally admired as aiding nature1 in
 affording the utmost freedom to the    
wearer1 at the same time that they      
improve the figure4  ,these stays1 have 
not only received the approbation of the
 scientific world by the presentation of
 three medals1 but have also been       
recommended by several distinguished    
members of the faculty1 who consider    

they are calculated rather to improve   
than deteriorate the health of those who
 wear them4 ,the action which ,madame   
,dumoulin was obliged to bring against  
her competitor has been of the utmost   
service to her1 not only by the triumph 
she has received and the confirmation of
 her patent1 but in giving her that     
vogue that not only the influential     
,parisian ladies1 but ,russian1 ,german 
and ,spanish princesses have patronised 
her ingenuity2 her residence is ,rue du 
#bi ,juillet1 no #e4  ,in the ,courts of
 ,justice in ,france and particularly in
 ,paris1 ,i have found that both the    
prisoners and the witnesses have far    
more self possession than in the        
tribunals in ,england2 they are not so  
soon embarrassed by the brow-beating and
 examination of the counsel1 and        
sometimes give such replies as turn the 
sting upon their examiners2 having like 
the ,irish a sort of tact for repartee1 
they are not often to be taken aback2   
the lower classes in ,paris are         

naturally extremely shrewd and          
penetrating1 they recognise a foreigner 
instantly1 before he speaks1 as a friend
 of mine found to his cost1 who although
 an ,englishman would anywhere in his   
own country be set down for a ,frenchman
 from his external appearance4 ,on the  
,saturday following the three glorious  
days1 he was standing amongst one of the
 groups near the ,hotel-de-,ville1 when 
a man of a very rough appearance with   
his arms bare and besmeared with proofs 
that he had been in the strife1 turned  
to him and asked what he thought of the 
,revolution4 ,my friend1 who was in     
feeling a thorough bred ,john ,bull1    
neither liking ,france1 the ,french1 nor
 any of their proceedings1 did not think
 it was exactly the moment to give vent 
to all his feelings1 answered that it   
was very fine4  ,oh6 said the           
,frenchman1 you find it very fine1 do   
you1 you're a foreigner1 what countryman
 are you8  ,i am an ,englishman1 was the
 reply4  ,an ,englishman6 eh6 muttered  

the ,frenchman scanning him with a very 
scrutinising eye1 and you find our      
,revolutionary fine1 eh6 well1 added he6
 will you come and take a glass of wine 
with me8  ,the invitation was declined  
on the plea of business4  ,business1    
repeated the ,frenchman1 there can be no
 business to-day1 it is a day of fete2  
upon which the ,englishman1 not seeing  
any means by which he could well get off
 of it1 said he would be happy to take  
wine with him and should also have great
 pleasure in paying for it4  ,pay for   
it1 sternly said the ,frenchman1 what do
 you talk of paying for it1 when you are
 invited1 follow me2 the ,englishman    
obeyed1 but wished himself well out of  
the scrape2 his conductor took him to   
one of the lowest sort of wine-houses   
and they entered a large room where     
there were above twenty seated1 drinking
 round a table4 ,his new acquaintance   
introduced him in due form1 saying1 ,i  
have brought you an ,englishman who     
finds our ,revolution very fine2 there  

was a degree of order amongst them and  
they had a president and vice president1
 but were very much such rough looking  
fellows as the one who announced him2 as
 a stranger1 he was awarded the seat of 
honour to the right of the president1   
but had no sooner been seated1 than one 
man addressed him1 saying1  ,i have been
 in ,england1 ,i was a prisoner and very
 ill treated4  ,i am sorry for that1    
replied the ,englishman4  ,i was almost 
starved1 added the other4  ,that was not
 the fault of the people or the         
intention of the government1 observed my
 friend1 but was caused by a few        
rascally contractors who received a     
handsome sum for the supply of the      
prisoners1 and to make the greater      
profit they provided bad articles4      
,well1 said another1 ,i have seen       
extracts from the ,english papers and   
they speak very highly of our           
revolution1 particularly the ,times4    
,they next proceeded to give accounts of
 the share they had taken in the        

struggle which had just terminated1 and 
some began to state the number that they
 killed1 all of which was far from      
edifying to my friend1 who sat upon     
thorns notwithstanding they all drank   
his health1 hitting the glasses together
 according to the custom of olden time4 
,at several periods he made an effort to
 go1 but they assured him that they     
could not part with him so soon1 called 
him a bon anglais1 now and then giving  
him a smack on the shoulder as a proof  
of their friendly feeling towards him4  
,the ,englishman began at last to wish  
himself anywhere but where he was1 and  
in that manner they kept him for three  
hours in durance vile2 at last he made a
 bold push for a retreat1 declaring he  
could not stay a minute longer4  ,then1 
said his conductor1 ,i shall see you    
safe home to your door2 now that was the
 very thing that my friend did not want1
 as he was particularly desirous of     
dropping the acquaintance as soon as    
possible1 therefore did not wish him to 

know where he lived2 so at last he      
thought of a person with whom he dealt1 
and said he must go1 and see a friend   
there with whom he had an appointment2  
and the ,frenchman accompanied him to   
the door1 always carrying his drawn     
sword with him1 and when taking leave   
asked the ,englishman when and where he 
should see him again2 my friend answered
 he was going to ,england4  ,going to   
,england1 repeated the other1 what are  
you going to ,england for1 if you find  
our ,revolution so very fine1 what do   
you want to go away from it for1 not to 
abuse it to your country people1 ,i     
hope8  ,oh no1 replied the ,englishman1 
,i am only going to ,england for a      
little while1 on business1 and shall be 
back soon1 and shall have it in my power
 to tell my countrymen all about the    
,revolution1 and what an heroic struggle
 it was4  ,ah6 said the ,frenchman2 then
 holding out his great rough hand1 bade 
the ,englishman bon soir1 and bon       
voyage4  ,my friend declared that it was

 impossible for him to describe to what 
a degree he was rejoiced at seeing his  
new acquaintance depart1 although1      
however rough his appearance1 the man   
might have been perfectly harmless1     
except when called upon to fight for    
what he considered his country's cause4 
,i was myself living in ,paris during   
the struggle of the ,three ,days1 and   
can bear witness to the humanity and    
moderation of the people during the     
contest1 and of their forbearance after 
their victory2 they came to the house at
 which ,i was living and asked for wine2
 but they brought with them pails of    
water into which they threw what was    
given them1 thereby proving their       
extreme temperance and forbearance1 but 
certainly a band of a more ruffianlike  
looking set of fellows1 it would be     
difficult to imagine1 and the manner in 
which they were at first armed1 had     
something in it of the horrible1 and at 
the same time of the ludicrous2 iron    
bars1 pokers1 pitchforks1 and in fact   

anything that could be converted into a 
weapon was taken possession of by the   
unwashed horde1 who swarmed towards the 
centre of ,paris from the manufacturing 
suburbs2 soon1 however1 the public      
armouries1 and the gunsmiths' shops1 the
 musquetry1 and other arms taken from   
the soldiers during the battle1         
contributed to arm them more formidably4
  ,but in justice to the ,parisians ,i  
must cite two circumstances2 the one is1
 that whatever they seized upon in the  
public institutions1 as instruments of  
offence and defence1 were restored when 
the contest was over2 the librarian at  
the ,royal ,library told me that they   
took all the ancient and modern arms    
from their establishment1 but with the  
exception of seven they were all brought
 back1 and most likely the bearers of   
those which were missing had been       
killed4  ,the other instance which does 
high credit to the ,parisian mob1 is    
that they would not permit of any       
robbing or pillage in any house or      

building which they might enter1 but1 as
 might be expected1 some of the regular 
thieves of ,paris mixed amongst the     
people2 one at length being caught      
purloining an image in the palace of the
 ,tuileries1 they formed a circle round 
the thief1 tried him in an instant1 and 
shot him2 this was summary justice with 
a vengeance1 and certainly not exactly  
what ought to have been done1 but it    
showed the principle which existed4 ,in 
fact honesty is undoubtedly a quality   
existing in ,france to a most           
extraordinary degree1 a greater proof of
 it cannot be adduced than the fact that
 when any person quits a theatre with   
the idea of returning in a few minutes  
they leave their handkerchiefs on their 
seats by way of retaining their places1 
which custom is even practised at the   
lowest theatres1 where the admittance is
 only half a franc4  ,ingenuity and a   
tact for invention are certainly        
features peculiar to the ,french        
character1 but they are far behind the  

,english in their methods of transacting
 business2 this remark is applicable    
even to most of the public offices2 that
 ,france is extremely flourishing1 and  
,paris more particularly so1 cannot be  
denied1 but were it in the hands of the 
,english there is no doubt their        
produce1 manufactures1 and commerce1    
both home and foreign1 would be         
considerably greater than it now is4    
,france has been most peculiarly        
favoured by nature1 her soil produces   
everything that can be grown in         
,england1 and besides three commodities 
which are not genial to our climate1 and
 are of immense value1 oil1 silk and    
wine2 hence the products of the soil of 
,france amount annually to the immense  
sum of #bdj1jjj1jjjl41 or #f1jjj1jjj1jjj
 francs2 having such a basis1 or one may
 even say such a capital to work upon1  
to what an incalculable extent might    
business be carried on1 with the amazing
 industry that exists in ,france1 as in 
the first place their population exceeds

 ours by nearly six millions2 then their
 general temperance is such1 there is   
not so much time nor labour lost as     
there is in ,england1 consequently there
 are more hands available1 and those    
generally for a longer period of time1  
as every one who is familiar with many  
manufacturing and even agricultural     
districts in ,england must be aware that
 there are numbers of workmen who never 
appear on the ,monday1 vulgarly called  
,st4 ,monday1 but spend it at the public
 houses4  ,i myself have had farming men
 whom ,i hired by the day in ,kent1 who 
did not appear until ,wednesday morning1
 but that1 however1 is some years since1
 and the evil is now correcting4 ,the   
great deficiency in ,france is not only 
want of great capitalists1 but men of   
enterprise1 who are not afraid to enter 
upon colossal undertakings2 and now1    
looking at the speculative works of the 
greatest magnitude which exist in       
,france1 it will be found that          
,englishmen are concerned in them1      

either as partners in a firm1 or the    
principal shareholders in any company or
 association4 ,the promptness of the    
,english for adventuring their funds in 
all sorts of schemes is the wonderment  
of all ,europe2 whenever there is any   
discovery which may be rendered         
available for trade1 an ,englishman is  
on the spot with his capital in his hand
 and his calculation in his head4       
,recently a vein of coal was found near 
the coast of ,brittany1 three           
,englishmen were there as if they had   
dropped from the clouds1 quite prepared 
to enter into all the arrangements      
requisite for working the mine and      
rendering it productive of profit4  ,but
 although the ,french are deficient in  
those qualities requisite for commencing
 and conducting gigantic enterprises1   
yet they are rapidly improving in every 
point that is necessary for the         
management of business and augmenting   
their foreign commerce to a great       
extent1 particularly with ,america2 from

 the town of ,new ,orleans alone1 last  
summer1 there were eighty merchants in  
,paris at one time1 and the amount from 
all the ,united ,states was estimated at
 two thousand2 in fact if ,france remain
 at peace1 the increase of her          
prosperity in every branch of industry  
must be certain1 as if she obtain       
,english machinery1 which she must      
ultimately1 with those who know how to  
set it in motion also1 as provisions are
 cheaper1 and always will be than with  
us1 because she needs not so much       
taxation1 her debt being so much smaller
 than that of ,england1 labour must be  
lower1 therefore she will have an       
advantage over us which it will be      
impossible for ,england1 with all her   
talents1 to circumvent4 ,already the    
,americans purchase1 not only silks and 
fancy articles in ,france1 but also even
 cotton goods of the superior qualities2
 the only obstacle which prevents the   
,french from making still more rapid    
advancement than is at present the case1

 is first timidity of capitalists1      
deficiency of knowledge of the higher   
order of business1 and extreme slowness 
in proceeding with any grand national   
operation1 as for instance1 her         
railroads1 in which she has not only    
seen ,england surpass her tenfold1 but  
other neighbouring countries2 but as    
there is a sort of system of            
centralization in favour of the         
metropolis1 ,paris improves more rapidly
 in proportion than the rest of ,france4
     ,,chapter ,,vi4       ,the         
monuments of ,paris1 the gardens1       
promenades1 markets1      libraries1    
etc4   ,in order to facilitate the      
progress of the reader in viewing the   
monuments and different objects of      
interest in ,paris1 ,i shall classify   
them within certain limits1 so that they
 may be viewed in the shortest possible 
time1 stating those which are contiguous
 to each other1 so that a greater number
 may be visited in a day1 than if the   
traveller went from one distant quarter 

of ,paris to the other promiscuously1 as
 he happened to hear of any building or 
monument he wished to see1 and thus have
 to return perhaps two or three times to
 the same neighbourhood instead of      
finishing with one district first1 then 
taking the others in rotation2 as ,i    
shall suppose that some of my readers   
can only afford ten days or a fortnight 
to view ,paris1 ,i shall be as chary of 
their time as possible2 having been     
accustomed to show the lions to many    
different friends or acquaintances from 
,england1 ,i trust ,i am tolerably au   
fait at that operation4 ,i shall begin  
with that part of ,paris denominated ,la
 ,cite1 because it is the most central  
and the most ancient2 we will therefore 
proceed to it by the ,pont-,neuf1 which 
as ,i have already stated was built by  
,henry ,,iii about #aehj4 ,there are    
several shops upon it contained within  
small stone buildings1 which1 when      
viewing the bridge at a short distance1 
have rather a picturesque effect2 it is 

ornamented with a number of heads       
according to the taste of that day1 and 
which now give it rather an antique     
appearance4 ,when well upon the bridge  
which rises as it approaches the centre1
 ,i would advise the spectator to look  
around him1 as the view well repays the 
trouble1 the quays having a most noble  
appearance1 adorned by the ,louvre1 the 
,tuileries1 the ,institute1 and other   
public buildings4  ,now let us look     
about us at more immediate objects2 what
 a noisy bustling scene it is at        
present1 and has been for centuries     
past1 as in the reign of ,henry ,,iv it 
is described as absolutely stunning2 now
 you are assailed by the hissing of     
fried potatoes1 fish1 and fritters1     
which are bought up as fast as they are 
supplied1 women and men are seated with 
their little apparatus for shearing cats
 and dogs1 and clipping their tails and 
ears if required1 which is a calling    
that appears to be followed by numbers  
in ,paris who all seem to take their    

stations on the bridges2 situated       
amongst them are several shoeblacks1 who
 appear to take their posts in uniform  
array with the trimmers of cats and     
dogs2 they operate upon your boots and  
shoes as you stand1 therefore if you    
wish to patronise them you may take that
 opportunity of looking about and       
getting disburthened of some of the     
,paris mud1 quite certain if it be wet  
weather that you will soon get more4    
,fruit in all its variety1 books1       
prints1 blacking1 and nick-knacks of    
every description offer themselves to   
your notice4 ,but let us direct our     
attention to a more interesting object2 
the fine bronze equestrian statue of    
,henry ,,iv3 one could almost think the 
good and merry monarch was going to     
utter some of his witty sallies4 ,now   
let us turn round and behold those      
antique looking houses which face us and
 were built in his reign1 at a distance 
they have a sort of castellated         
appearance3 before we quit the bridge   

let us look down on the ,baths ,vigier  
with their pretty garden2 we will enter 
the place ,dauphine1 and then take one  
look at the bust of ,desaix1 the victim 
of the battle of ,marengo1 and next we  
will turn on to the ,quai de l',horloge 
and view the north side of the ,palais  
de ,justice2 it presents two round      
towers1 which have the appearance of    
being very old1 and ,i was assured by an
 architect who employed much of his time
 in poking about after such morsels of  
antiquity as he could find1 that they   
were built by the ,romans1 but ,i doubt 
it4  ,we must not miss the ,tour de     
l',horloge1 which is certainly of the   
middle ages1 and the clock is ,i believe
 considered the oldest in ,paris2       
turning to the right we view the grand  
front of the ,palais de ,justice1 a very
 handsome iron grating in part gilded1  
decorates the entrance to the front     
court1 and you ascend a bold flight of  
steps to the principal door2 four doric 
pillars with figures representing       

,justice1 ,fortitude1 ,plenty1 and      
,prudence1 adorn the grand facade of the
 building2 an immense hall to the right1
 in which is a noble statue of the good 
and venerable ,malesherbes1 well worth  
attention1 and is the apartment where   
formerly ambassadors were received and  
the nuptial ceremonies of princes were  
celebrated1 but now the rendez-vous of  
lawyers1 barristers1 and their clients4 
,several other halls1 chambers1         
galleries1 corridors1 etc1 are worth    
notice1 and that which is beneath them1 
has a shuddering kind of interest2 it is
 called the ,conciergerie1 and if its   
victims were there consigned by the     
harsh decree of rigid justice1 surely   
mercy and charity were not allowed to   
enter1 whilst it formed the prison of   
the hapless ,marie ,antoinette and the  
brave ,pichegru1 but we will draw a veil
 over those scenes which are but fraught
 with sad reminiscences4 ,many of these 
dark covered alleys1 belonging to this  
extraordinary building1 have been long  

occupied by venders of shoes1 slippers  
and a variety of articles which remind  
one of the old ,exeter ,change4  ,this  
singular edifice which almost resembles 
a town is considered to have been       
founded by ,eudes1 count of ,paris1     
about the year #hij1 but the most       
ancient part now standing1 was built by 
,saint ,louis who founded the chapel1   
which is considered to be a complete    
type of the pure gothic architecture1   
and which in that respect is not        
exceeded by any other in ,europe2 it has
 the most decided air of antiquity1 with
 a richness and elegance which certainly
 characterise it as the beau ideal of   
that period4 ,it is termed the ,holy    
,chapel and now appropriated to the     
conservation of ancient records4 ,from  
this interesting monument we turn with  
regret1 but a new scene bursts upon us2 
it is the flower market1 which is held  
under trees and furnished with large    
bassins constantly supplied with water2 
the numerous display of flowers mostly  

in pots done up in such a manner with   
white paper so that it forms the        
background1 gives much light and life to
 the colours1 buds1 and blossoms1 which 
bloom on this enlivening spot4          
,wednesdays and ,saturdays are the      
market days1 and ,i recommend the reader
 not to miss so pleasing a spectacle4   
,on the ,quai du ,marche-,neuf1 on the  
southern bank of the island1 a very     
opposite sight may be seen1 being the   
,morgue1 a little building for receiving
 all dead bodies found1 and not owned4  
,we now proceed to ,notre-,dame1 which  
is in the form of a cross2 it was began 
about the year #aaej1 in the reign of   
,louis the ,seventh1 but continued in   
that of ,philippe-,auguste1 and         
completed under ,saint-,louis in #abeg1 
which date1 as ,i have already stated1  
it now distinctly bears4 ,its magnitude 
and extent surpasses every other church 
in ,paris1 it is in the arabic style1   
and being now totally detached from any 
other building has a most grand effect2 

it is only in the present reign that    
this great improvement has been         
effected1 as it was formerly joined on  
one side to the archiepiscopal palace4  
,the immense number of grotesque figures
 which surround and surmount the        
doorway1 give it a most rich appearance1
 although they are in the rudest style  
of barbarism2 above is a large window   
called the rose1 which is a most        
beautiful and curious object4 ,the      
interior at the first view has a most   
striking effect2 one hundred and twenty 
pillars supporting a range of arches    
afford a most splendid coup d'oeil1 the 
middle aisle presenting an uninterrupted
 view of the whole church1 which being  
very lofty has a most majestic          
appearance2 the sumptuous altar1 the    
fine gloom pervading the pictures1 the  
curious ,gobelin tapestry which decorate
 the sides1 combine in affording a rich 
effect which is still heightened by the 
chapels which are perceptible between   
the columns4 ,although it might be urged

 that there is rather a profusion of    
decoration with the bas-reliefs1 and    
other ornaments1 yet the edifice is on  
so colossal a scale that it still       
presents so broad a mass1 that a tone of
 simplicity pervades the whole4 ,the    
beautiful choir is after a design by ,de
 ,goste1 the altar and sanctuary are of 
marble and porphyry1 whilst tesselated  
pavements and variegated shrines adorn  
the numerous chapels4 ,the pictures are 
good in general2 as to the tapestry1 ,i 
think it had better be removed1 which ,i
 dare say it will be as taste refines4  
,it is to be regretted that the towers  
of ,notre-,dame have so heavy and black 
appearance1 which is increased by a     
parcel of dark unseemly shutters4 ,on   
the outside towards the north1 there are
 some pieces of sculpture well worth    
examination2 they are beautifully       
executed although much deteriorated by  
time1 and appear to be works of about   
the thirteenth century4 ,there are some 
curious brasses which would be very     

interesting to persons capable of       
decyphering them1 one in particular to  
the left on entering1 but so much in the
 dark that it is difficult to make it   
out1 especially as the characters at    
best are not easy to understand1 but ,i 
recommend them to the inspection of     
those persons who have time and         
inclination to study such subjects4 ,the
 view of the city from the towers       
affords an ample panorama1 and displays 
the positions of the principal          
monuments4  ,the ,hotel ,dieu is one of 
the finest establishments of the kind in
 ,europe1 it is an hospital for the     
sick1 in which they can make up #a1ejj  
beds1 but there is nothing in its       
external appearance that is very        
striking4 ,the ,archiepiscopal ,palace  
had not a very attractive exterior1 but 
now1 as they are partly demolishing and 
rebuilding it all1 remarks must be      
suspended until it be finished4 ,no     
other object presents itself            
particularly worth notice on this       

island1 once the celebrated ,lutetia1   
but many of the houses have a very old  
appearance1 and are some of them        
probably of three or four hundred years 
standing2 the curious observer          
inspecting them will here and there find
 indications of the middle ages4 ,if the
 reader like to pass over to the ,isle  
,st4 ,louis1 it will but take him a few 
minutes1 which is about as much as it is
 worth2 the only object exciting        
attention is the ,hotel ,chamisot1 ,no4 
#de1 ,rue ,st4 ,louis1 and the church of
 ,st4 ,louis1 built in #affd4 ,in this  
edifice there are some pictures worthy  
remark and a curious spire4 ,the ,hotel 
,lambert1 ,no4 #b1 ,rue ,st4 ,louis1    
also merits attention1 being most richly
 adorned with paintings1 gilded         
mouldings1 frescos1 etc4 ,voltaire lived
 in it1 and ,napoleon had a long        
conversation in the gallery in #ahae    
with his minister1 ,montalivet1 when he 
found all was lost4  ,i shall now       
conduct my reader from the little ,isle 

,st4 ,louis by the ,pont de ,tournelle  
to the ,quay de ,tournelle1 from which  
we proceed to that of ,st4 ,bernard1    
where every one must be struck with the 
,halles aux ,vins1 or ,wine ,halls2 they
 are all arranged with extreme          
regularity1 and forming altogether a    
whole1 have a most singular effect2 the 
neatness of the appearance is           
remarkable2 and the extent is such that 
they might contain sufficient           
inhabitants to people a small town4 ,as 
we proceed along the quay1 we have a    
good view of the ,pont d',austerlitz1 it
 is quite flat1 built of iron1 and is   
extremely light and handsome4  ,upon our
 right is the great attraction1 so      
interesting to all nations1 the ,garden 
of ,plants2 the first view of it through
 the iron railing is most striking1 rows
 of sable looking trees1 forming a fine 
contrast to the broad expansive beds of 
flowers1 their gay colours blooming     
forth so thickly as to resemble at some 
distance the brightest and richest      

carpet2 broad walks are between these   
brilliant masses2 at the end of which is
 the building which contains the ,museum
 of natural ,history2 to give the reader
 anything like an accurate idea of this 
establishment1 it is necessary to       
exercise one's ability in condensing to 
the utmost degree1 as to furnish a      
comprehensive analysis of the wonders of
 this institution would require a folio 
volume4 ,i knew an ,english couple who  
took lodgings in the immediate          
neighbourhood for three months that they
 might go every day and study the       
numberless interesting objects this     
establishment contains4 ,the long       
promenades are formed by picturesque    
trees and shrubs which have been        
collected from every clime2 the immense 
number of labels1 as one approaches more
 closely1 rather disfigure the display  
of flowers1 but as usefulness is the    
object1 it is impossible otherwise than 
to approve the extreme order and        
regularity with which every plant1      

according to its genus1 is classified1  
affording a most delectable treat to a  
regular botanist4 ,this arrangement has 
been effected under the superintendence 
of ,monsieur du ,jussieu himself1 no    
doubt one of the most scientific        
botanists thatever has appeared2 his    
residence and that of his family was in 
the gardens1 when ,i was in ,paris      
twenty years back1 and ,i believe some  
of them still are concerned in the      
botanical arrangements of the           
institution4  ,the tremendous vocabulary
 of long latin names inscribed on the   
labels is really enough to appal the    
most retentive memory that ever existed1
 and to a person who has never dipped at
 all into the mysteries of botany ,i can
 imagine the terms are rather alarming1 
words with nineteen letters in them are 
but trifles compared to others1 and a   
regular ,john ,bull who was scanning    
them very justly remarked1 pointing to  
the flowers1 that it was certainly a    
favoured spot of ,flora1 and then       

alluding to the fruits observed the same
 of ,pomona1 but added1 he should like  
very much to know who was the goddess of
 hard words as he would recommend her to
 descend upon the same beds1 as she     
would there find a more numerous progeny
 than either of her rival goddesses4 ,i 
believe that there are now nearly       
#aj1jjj plants arranged according to the
 system of ,de ,jussieu1 in the most    
simple and perfect manner1 so that the  
student is enabled at once to comprehend
 the plan1 and numbers of both sexes    
attend even as early as six in the      
morning copying the names of plants and 
studying their classification4 ,although
 this establishment is called the       
,garden of ,plants1 it has many other   
objects of the highest interest besides 
what its name indicates4 ,it is at the  
same time a most extensive menagerie1   
which first gave the idea that has since
 been adopted of the ,zoological        
,gardens in ,regent's ,park2 formerly   
the arrangement exceedingly interested  

and delighted the ,english visiter1 but 
now that he has the same thing at home1 
it has ceased to be a novelty4 ,each    
animal having plenty of room to walk    
about in1 was certainly a beautiful     
thought1 and great improvement on       
confining them in cages1 which is now   
only found necessary with ferocious     
animals4 ,the bears form a great source 
of amusement to the people1 they are in 
large square pits about ten or twelve   
feet below the level of the promenades1 
and each has a large pole in the middle1
 with several branches upon which they  
climb1 whilst the visiters throwing     
bread to them are exceedingly diverted  
at their successful or unsuccessful     
attempts to catch it4 ,it would be      
superfluous to enter upon a description 
of the great variety of animals         
assembled in this collection1 suffice it
 to say that ,i believe there is no     
living animal who can exist in a        
,parisian climate1 that is not to be    
found in this garden2 generally there   

are several of a kind1 and in case one  
dies it is immediately replaced by      
another4 ,the monkeys are the principal 
objects of attraction1 and as soon as   
they are let out into their little      
paddock in front of their dwellings1    
which is only when the day is considered
 sufficiently warm1 crowds of people    
assemble to witness their grimaces and  
gambols2 they and the bears may be      
considered as the principal dramatis    
personae of the menagerie1 and who      
certainly perform their parts most      
admirably1 never failing to afford the  
utmost entertainment to the audience3   
and it is indeed a sort of rivalry      
between ,jocko and ,bruin which should  
play their role the best2 for my own    
part ,i really think ,i give the        
preference to the latter1 there is      
something at once so comic and so good  
natured-looking in the bears1 that ,i   
feel almost inclined to descend into    
their pits and caress and pet them as ,i
 would a favourite dog1 but am only     

deterred by fearing they would give me a
 reception rather too warm1 and their   
friendly hug be too overpowering for me 
to sustain4  ,there are several         
buildings in this garden which are      
applied to various purposes1 amongst the
 rest an ,amphitheatre where lectures on
 all the branches of natural history are
 delivered4 ,a ,cabinet of ,anatomy most
 richly stored occupies one mansion2    
dissections of the human form1 as well  
as those of almost every animal are here
 found1 besides numerous other          
curiosities4 ,amongst other things the  
progress of a chicken in the egg is     
exemplified1 from its first speck until 
it has life1 which is imitated with the 
most extraordinary exactness in wax1 as 
also are several fishes which cannot be 
preserved1 besides a numerous collection
 of foeti and monsters4 ,to see these   
things properly2 would require to pass  
several days in these rooms2 but a week 
would not suffice to do justice to the  
grand ,museum1 every description of bird

 and beast that has been known to exist 
in our days may be found here stuffed1  
and preserved in glass cases with the   
nicest care2 it appears strange to see  
an enormous elephant and a tall ostrich 
within a glass case4 ,here also are to  
be found every species of fungus1       
chrysalis1 sea-weed1 eggs1 and nests4   
,but the shells1 minerals1 and fossils1 
form so extraordinary and numerous a    
collection that they are the subject of 
admiration of every beholder2 the polish
 of the shells1 the brilliance of the   
colours of the plumage of the birds1 and
 the glossy smoothness of the skins of  
the beasts are as perfect as if they    
were living1 but the same cannot exactly
 be said of the fishes4 ,the marbles1   
porphyry1 and granite1 the lava1        
basaltes1 barks of trees1 bones of      
animals known and unknown1 some within  
stones1 are arranged by the celebrated  
,cuvier1 whilst the ores1 crystals1     
jaspers1 and extraordinary varieties of 
ornamental articles formed of these     

materials occupy several apartments4    
,in addition to all these objects of    
high interest1 there is a most excellent
 library1 giving every possible         
information regarding the contents of   
this delightful establishment2 a statue 
of the great illustrator of the wonders 
of nature1 ,buffon1 is here most        
appropriately placed1 as also some      
paintings of plants and animals4 ,hence 
it may be easily imagined that persons  
who have much leisure1 and are fond of  
the study of natural history1 may well  
choose to take up their abode in the    
neighbourhood1 for the convenience of   
long poring over the beauties of this   
wonderful ,museum4 ,from hence other    
schools of botany are supplied with     
seeds1 cuttings1 suckers1 etc41 whilst  
the hospitals of ,paris are gratuitously
 furnished with whatever is requisite   
for the purposes of medicine2 nor must  
,i omit to state that there is a most   
beautiful aviary1 the birds of which are
 choice selections of the finest of     

their species1 and for those of an      
aquatic nature1 there is a basin of     
water from the ,seine4 ,even specimens  
of soils1 manures1 ditches1 ha-has1     
palisades1 frames1 and every thing      
necessary for forming fences are to be  
found here in every variety4 ,even to   
persons who have no scientific          
information nor desire to obtain        
knowledge1 to walk in the               
,jardin-des-,plantes 7,garden of        
,plants7 affords delight1 the number of 
attractions are such1 and of so varied a
 description that even the dullest mind 
must be awakened to a sense of pleasure1
 yet some persons ,i have seen who      
regarded all the phenomena collected    
here with the most stoical indifference2
 the fact is1 that a number of people   
will not take the trouble to think1 and 
lose the enjoyment they might receive   
from the wonders of nature2 how         
different if they would but devote to   
them a little reflexion4  ,with our     
minds still deeply impregnated with the 

impression of the objects we have just  
contemplated1 we will leave the garden1 
and turning round to the right1 we find 
ourselves upon the ,boulevard de        
l',hopital1 just facing the ,hopital de 
la ,salpetriere1 which makes up #ejj    
beds for females1 who are lunatics1     
idiots1 otherwise diseased1 or #gj years
 of age2 it is of immense extent1 and   
conducted with so much order1 and such  
cleanliness prevails both with regard to
 the inmates and the establishment      
itself1 that it may be considered one of
 the most gratifying sights in ,paris2  
in fact ,i have heard many ,english     
ladies1 much to their credit1 declare   
that not any of the interesting objects 
which they had seen in the ,french      
capital1 afforded them more pleasure and
 satisfaction4 ,just near it is the     
terminus for the ,orleans railway1 which
 is worthy of observation1 and then we  
will cross over to the horse and dog    
market and observe the regular system   
with regard to the stalls and other     

arrangements which are adopted2 it is   
principally for draught-horses1         
,wednesdays and ,saturdays are the      
market days1 and ,sundays for dogs4 ,we 
must next glance at the ,hopital de la  
,pitie1 founded in #afab for paupers1 it
 has been since annexed to the          
,hotel-,dieu1 and contains #fjj beds2 it
 is situated ,no4 #a1 rue ,copeau4      
,sainte-,pelagie being just by in the   
,rue de la ,clef1 we ought to afford it 
a half hour2 it was formerly a convent  
of nuns1 political prisoners are now    
here confined when committed for trial1 
or if sentenced to but short terms of   
imprisonment2 it is also appropriated   
for other offenders whose sentence of   
confinement is of brief duration1 but   
the military surveillance within and    
around it is very strict4  ,the         
,fountain ,cuvier1 at the corner of the 
street of that name1 and the ,rue ,st4  
,victor1 must claim a few minutes'      
attention2 it is certainly one amongst  
those of modern erection possessing     

great merit4 ,in the ,rue ,scipion we   
will cast one look at the great         
bakehouse for all the hospitals in      
,paris1 to which ,i have before alluded4
 ,the ,amphitheatre of ,anatomy must    
occupy some attention1 being a suite of 
anatomical schools only recently built1 
on a most commodious scale2 it forms a  
corner of the ,rues du ,fer and ,fosses 
,st4 ,marcel4 ,one thought in passing   
the ancient ,cimetiere de ,ste4         
,catherine1 closed in #ahae1 must be    
devoted to ,pichegru1 who lies buried   
there2 we then hurry on without loss of 
time to the manufacture of the ,gobelin 
tapestry4 ,as the little river ,bievre  
is considered to be peculiarly adapted  
for dyeing1 that process has been       
carried on from a very remote period on 
the spot where the present establishment
 now stands1 which owes its foundation  
to ,jean ,gobelin in #adej1 and under   
,louis the ,fourteenth it was formed    
into a royal manufactory4 ,to me this is
 indeed one of the greatest wonders of  

,paris1 how such beautiful specimens of 
art can be produced when the work is all
 done behind the frame1 so that the     
artist cannot see the effect of what he 
is doing1 is to me most miraculous2 the 
material used is woollen and silken     
threads1 so woven together1 that a      
perfectly smooth surface is produced1   
having all the softness and gradation of
 tints to be found in the finest oil    
painting1 without that glare which      
varnish produces2 the execution of these
 works is attended by a most tedious    
application1 requiring sometimes six    
years to complete one piece1 which1 at  
#ah1jjj francs1 about seven hundred     
pounds1 is not adequate to recompensing 
the workmen equal to their merit and    
perseverance2 about #abj men are        
constantly employed1 principally for the
 ,government or the ,royal ,family4     
,attached to this establishment is the  
,royal ,carpet ,manufactory2 such as are
 here produced are considered superior  
to those of ,persia1 with regard to the 

evenness of the surface1 the strength1  
durability1 and fineness of the         
workmanship1 the beauty of the designs1 
and the brilliance of the colours1 which
 are such as can never be surpassed1 but
 if they were ever allowed to be sold1  
the price would be so enormous that some
 would amount to #aej1jjj francs        
7#fjjjl47 ,the accuracy with which the  
pictures of ,rubens have been copied is 
most extraordinary1 as it may be said   
that the operative works in the dark4   
,one carpet has been produced for the   
,gallery of the ,louvre1 consisting of  
seventy-two pieces1 forming a total     
exceeding #a1cjj feet which is supposed 
to be the largest carpet ever made4 ,the
 same facility exists for foreigners    
seeing this exhibition1 as with all     
others1 the passport being presented1   
,wednesdays and ,saturdays1 from one to 
three in winter1 and from two to four in
 the summer4  ,a curious old house1     
termed the ,maison de ,st4 ,louis or de 
la ,reine ,blanche1 is worth notice1 in 

the ,rue des ,marmouzets2 it may have   
been inhabited by a queen of that name1 
but certainly not the mother of ,st4    
,louis1 as it is not sufficiently       
ancient1 being of about the time of     
,charles the ,seventh1 when it was the  
rage to build houses in that style of   
architecture1 about the period of from  
#addj to #adfj4 ,the church of ,st4     
,medard1 in the ,rue ,mouffetard1 offers
 nothing remarkable1 but a mixture of   
different styles of architecture1       
according to the epochs at which it was 
repaired and embellished2 in #aefa a    
tremendous attack was made upon it by   
the ,calvinists1 when several of the    
congregation were killed1 and the ,abbe 
,paris1 having been buried in the       
cemetery attached in #agbg1 his tomb1 it
 is pretended1 had certain convulsions  
in #agcj1 and was the origin of the sect
 called convulsionists1 and the scenes  
which occurred caused the cemetery to be
 closed in #agcb4 ,a picture of ,st4    
,genenieve1 by ,watteau1 in the chapel  

of that saint1 must be admired1 having  
much merit4 ,in the ,rue de l',oursine1 
,no4 #ie1 is an hospital which is a     
refuge for sinning and afflicted females
 7something in the nature of the        
,magdalen1 in ,london71 containing #cjj 
beds4 ,to the fountain of ,bacchus1 at  
the corner of the ,rue ,censier1 we will
 give a look en passant1 as also to the 
,school of ,pharmacy1 formerly a        
convent1 in the garden of which was     
formed the first botanical garden1 in   
#aehj2 there is here a cabinet of       
specimens of drugs and a collection of  
mineralogy worthy of examination2 it is 
situated in the ,rue de l',arbalete1    
,no4 #ac4  ,the ,hopital ,militaire and 
,church of the ,val de ,grace is in the 
,rue ,st4 ,jacques 7vide page #if7 and  
is one which particularly merits        
attention of the visiter2 the vault of  
the dome is painted upon the stone by   
,mignard1 and is justly celebrated as   
one of the most splendid frescos in     
,france2 the heart of ,anne of ,austria1

 the foundress of it1 was sent here1 as 
also those of many succeeding members of
 the ,royal ,family4 ,the interior of   
the church is much admired for the      
richness of its architecture4 ,at ,no4  
#c1 ,rue de la ,bourbe1 is the ,lying-in
 ,hospital1 formerly the ,abbey of ,port
 ,royal1 containing #dde beds2 any      
woman1 eight months advanced in         
pregnancy1 is admitted1 if there be room
 to receive her1 without an inquiry1 if 
she be in distress2 she enters into an  
engagement to support the child1 and if 
she cannot fulfil it1 she must make a   
declaration and it is sent to the       
,foundling ,hospital1 but if she retain 
it1 clothing and a small sum of money is
 given her on quitting the hospital4 ,a 
school for midwifery is established     
here1 the practitioners being females1  
who1 when considered competent1 receive 
a diploma from the physicians who are   
appointed judges4  ,just by this        
establishment is the ,observatory1      
erected in the reign of ,louis ,,xv2 it 

is a most curious piece of architecture1
 having in it neither wood nor iron2 it 
is not a large building1 but has a fine 
appearance1 and ,perrault was the       
architect2 it is vaulted throughout1 and
 a geometrical staircase1 having a      
vacuity of #agj feet deep1 merits       
particular notice4 ,there is a circular 
universal chart upon the pavement of one
 of the apartments4 ,by means of        
mechanical arrangements the roof and    
cupola open1 and every night1 the       
weather permitting1 astronomical        
observations are taken4 ,m4 ,arago1 the 
most celebrated astronomer of ,france1  
lectures here1 where there is every     
facility1 and every instrument to be    
found requisite for the promotion of the
 science of astronomy2 there are two    
pluvia-meters1 for ascertaining the     
quantity of rain that falls in ,paris   
during a year4 ,there is a general map  
of ,france1 called the ,carte de        
,cassini1 containing #ahb sheets1 a     
marble statue of ,cassini 7the author of

 the work7 attests the high estimation  
in which he was held2 he died in #agab1 
aged eighty-seven4 ,this institution is 
the just admiration of all scientific   
men from every civilized part of the    
world1 but it is an astronomer alone who
 can thoroughly appreciate its merits4  
,the little hospital1 founded by ,m4    
,cochin1 in #aghj1 being just by ,no4   
#de1 ,rue du ,faubourg ,st4 ,jacques1   
may claim our hasty look1 it contains   
#aad beds1 and the patients receive the 
attendance of the ,soeurs de ,st4       
,marthe4 ,at ,no4 #i1 ,rue des          
,capucins1 ,faubourg ,st4 ,jacques1 is  
an hospital for men and youths above    
fifteen1 whose excesses have brought on 
disease2 it is styled ,hopital des      
,veneriens1 and contains #cjj beds2 the 
attendants are all males4  ,near to the 
,barriere d',enfer is the entrance to   
the ,catacombs1 containing the bones of 
#c1jjj1jjj persons which are all        
systematically arranged so as to have   
the most extraordinary effect2 they are 

formed into galleries of an immense     
length1 and occupy a considerable space 
of ground under a great portion of      
,paris1 on the south side of the ,seine2
 but now they cease to be such objects  
of interest as they formerly were1 as   
the public are not now permitted to     
visit them2 they were formerly large    
quarries from which the stone was drawn 
for building most part of ancient       
,paris1 and when it was decided to clear
 many of the cemeteries within the      
capital1 the bones were placed in these 
quarries in #aghd1 and the operation of 
piling them as they now are was effected
 in #ahaj4 ,in the ,rue d',enfer1 ,no4  
#hf1 is the ,infirmary of ,marie        
,therese1 founded by ,madame la         
,vicomtesse de ,chateaubriand1 in #ahai1
 named after the ,duchess d',angouleme1 
its protectress2 it is destined for     
females who have moved in respectable   
society1 the accommodations and food    
being far better than are found in the  
generality of hospitals2 the            

establishment consists of fifty beds4   
,at the ,barriere of ,st4 ,jacques1 the 
guillotine is erected when criminals are
 to be executed4 ,beyond the ,barriere  
d',enfer1 on the ,orleans road1 ,no4    
#ae1 is the ,hopital de la              
,rochefoucauld2 it is devoted to the    
reception of old servants of hospitals1 
and other aged persons1 it also receives
 poor persons on their paying1 according
 to circumstances1 #bjj francs a-year1  
or upwards1 or on paying a sum on       
entering varying from #gjj to #cjjj     
francs4 ,the number of beds is #bac4    
,as we descend the ,rue d',enfer1 we    
find1 at ,no4 #gd1 the ,foundling       
,hospital1 founded by the good and      
celebrated ,st4 ,vincent de ,paule1 in  
#afcb4 ,any child is received at this   
institution on the mother making a      
declaration that she has not the means  
of supporting it1 when she receives a   
certificate signed by a commissary of   
police2 the average number admitted in  
the last two or three years is rather   

over three thousand2 they are attended  
by the ,soeurs de ,charite 7,sisters of 
,charity7 in the most praiseworthy      
manner2 in the same building is the     
,orphans' ,hospital1 where the children 
are placed when two years of age1 and of
 poor persons who fall ill and are      
obliged to go to an hospital1 the       
children may be sent here until the     
parents are cured4 ,the children are all
 taught reading1 writing1 and           
arithmetic1 and are placed to various   
trades at the proper ages2 they are     
treated with the greatest care and      
kindness1 it is open to visiters1 and   
the sight of it produces the most       
heartfelt gratification2 many of the    
most respectable members of society have
 come from this institution4 ,turning   
into the ,rue de ,faubourg ,st4         
,jacques1 at the corner of the ,rue des 
,deux ,eglises1 is the institution for  
the ,deaf and ,dumb1 founded by the     
benevolent ,abbe de l',epee1 who1 with  
only #ejjl4 a-year1 took the charge of  

maintaining and educating forty deaf and
 dumb pupils1 whom he taught to write   
and read1 even on the most abstruse     
subjects4  ,the ,abbe ,sicard followed  
up the plan to the highest perfection2  
#hj pupils are now admitted gratis and  
are brought up to different trades1     
others pay according to their means2 the
 ,chambers grant generally #d1jjjl4 a   
year to this institution4 ,at ,no4 #fg1 
,rue d',enfer1 is the ,convent of the   
,carmelites1 where ,mademoiselle de ,la 
,valliere1 the beautiful favourite of   
,louis ,,xiv1 took the veil4 ,the church
 of ,st4 ,jacques-du-,haut-,pas1 which  
is at the opposite corner1 offers       
nothing very remarkable1 the first stone
 was laid in #afcj1 by ,gaston of       
,orleans1 brother to ,louis ,,xiii4     
,four fine paintings of ,saints however 
are worthy of notice4  ,the ,pantheon1  
formerly the church of ,sainte          
,genevieve1 stands to the left as we    
descend the rue ,st4 ,jacques1 and      
strikes upon the eye as a most noble and

 imposing building2 it was ,louis ,,xv  
who laid the first stone in #agfd1 near 
the spot where stood the ancient but    
ruined church of ,st4 ,genevieve4 ,it is
 affirmed that he was persuaded by      
,madame de ,pompadour to erect this     
monument as a thanksgiving after his    
having had a severe illness4 ,the       
architect was ,soufflot1 the style is   
purely ,grecian4 ,twenty-two fluted     
,corinthian columns1 #fj feet in height 
and #f in diameter1 sustain the portico1
 and #cb the great dome1 above which is 
a lantern terminated by a figure in     
bronze #ag feet high4 ,there is a great 
deal of sculpture about the building1   
some allegorical1 others portraiture2   
its total height is #bhb feet4 ,the     
exterior is in the form of a ,grecian   
cross4 ,the paintings are by the ,barons
 ,gros1 and ,gerard2 although a most    
noble structure1 yet it is not          
consistently grand in all its bearings4 
,monuments of the great men of ,france  
are now erected here2 and amongst the   

rest the immortal ,lafayette4 ,the      
stranger is recommended to ascend the   
dome1 from which a most amusing view is 
afforded4 ,the vaults beneath are       
extremely curious and interesting2      
whatever the faults of this edifice may 
be1 there is a solemnity about it which 
takes great possession of the mind1     
particularly when there is a funeral and
 the light of the torches are seen      
glimmering amongst the priests in the   
long drawn aisle1 as they slowly and    
solemnly wend their way4  ,in the ,rue  
des ,postes1 ,no4 #bf1 is the seminary  
for young men destined for missionaries 
to the colonies2 a bas relief           
representing a missionary preaching1    
above the pediment of the church1 is the
 only striking object4 ,at ,no4 #c1 ,rue
 de ,fourcy1 is the ,irish college1     
rather a handsome building1 with some   
trees about it which add to the effect4 
,many ,irish of distinction are buried  
here and it is still kept up1 there     
being about #ajj students2 the          

regulations are the same as in the      
,english ,universities1 about #be       
priests are sent out from here to their 
own country every year4 ,in the rue des 
,fosses ,st4 ,victor is the ,scotch     
,college 7vide page #gh71 it is now a   
sort of school1 but the tablet over the 
door with ,college des ,ecossais        
inscribed still remains1 and there are  
many interesting monuments of ,scotch   
nobility4 ,next door is the ,convent of 
,english ,augustin ,nuns1 the only      
religious house never molested during   
the ,revolution2 it contains a small    
chapel with some ,english tombs1 the    
inmates now occupy themselves with the  
education of their young countrywomen4  
,at the back of the ,pantheon1 rather to
 the south-east1 is the very curious and
 interesting church of ,st4             
,etienne-du-,mont2 it is an odd mixture 
of styles of architecture1 a tower and  
circular turret which are detached from 
the church1 are supposed to be of the   
date #abbb2 a staircase of most singular

 construction and of peculiar lightness 
is the first object which strikes the   
spectator on entering2 there is a great 
deal of richness and scroll work1 with  
some ,arabic1 ,greek and ,gothic styles 
intermingled4 ,some of the pictures in  
this church are exceedingly good1 and   
are by ,lebrun and ,lesueur4 ,the pulpit
 is supported by ,sampson1 and there are
 other smaller figures1 the whole having
 a beautiful effect2 the design is by   
,la ,hire1 and executed by ,lestocard1  
it is altogether a church of high       
interest1 often the subject of the      
modern artists' pencils4 ,there is a    
tomb which was found in the vaults      
beneath1 which is said to be that of    
,st4 ,genevieve1 and bears the date of  
#eaa4  ,the library of ,st4 ,genevieve  
is close by1 and besides containing     
#bjj1jjj volumes1 and #b1ejj            
manuscripts1 it possesses other objects 
of interest1 being a series of portraits
 from ,philippe the ,bold to ,louis the 
,,xv1 and one of ,mary ,queen of ,scots4

 ,this library belongs to the ,college  
,henry ,,iv1 which on the side towards  
the ,rue ,clovis is very modern1 but the
 lower part of the curious old tower is 
supposed to have been built in the reign
 of ,clovis4 ,the young princes of the  
reigning family in ,france were educated
 at this ,college1 there are #ijg       
pupils1 of whom #ejj are boarders4 ,the 
,ecole de ,droit which stands in front  
of the ,pantheon was also erected in the
 reign of ,louis ,,xv1 and ,souflot1 the
 architect4 ,at ,no4 #abc1 is the       
,college de ,louis-le-,grand1 formerly  
the ,college de ,clermont1 founded in   
#aefj1 but the present building was     
erected in #afah2 it contains #a1ahj    
pupils1 of whom #ebj are boarders4 ,it  
possesses a large library1 and a good   
collection of philosophical instruments4
 ,behind this ,college1 in the ,rue de  
,rheims1 at the corner of the ,rue des  
,chollets1 a gateway and building of the
 time of ,francis ,i4 is worth          
attention1 supposed to belong to the old

 ,college des ,chollets4 ,the ,royal    
,college of ,france1 situated ,no4 #a1  
,place ,cambrai1 was founded in #aebi1  
by ,francis ,i1 but the present edifice 
was erected in #aggd4 ,it is a spacious 
building and very commodious1 #bc       
professors attend and give gratuitous   
lectures upon almost every subject1     
whether scientific or literary1 and     
particularly upon languages1 both       
ancient and modern1 ,oriental and       
,european4 ,in a court opposite the     
college is a very curious square tower  
of the #abth century1 called la ,tour   
,bichat1 or la ,tour de ,st4            
,jean-de-,latran2 it is all that is     
remaining of the ,hall of ,knights      
,hospitaliers1 established in #aaga1    
afterwards called ,chevaliers de ,malte4
  ,the remains of a chapel of very      
ancient date will be found in the       
adjoining ,cour de la ,vacherie1 in the 
far corner to the right1 now occupied as
 a charcoal depot4 ,we will next proceed
 to the rue de la ,montagne ,st4        

,genevieve1 and view the ,polytechnic   
,school1 formerly the ,college de       
,navarre1 and where still remain a hall 
and chapel of the #adth century2 a new  
facade much less interesting has been   
recently added1 and the establishment is
 altogether badly situated4 ,there are  
many emblematical bas-reliefs which     
possess no extraordinary merit4 ,but the
 institution itself is one that deserves
 the highest encomiums1 the young men   
are received at from #ag to #bj1 after  
they have passed the ordeal of a very   
severe examination in ,paris or their   
respective departments4 ,they are       
instructed in every branch of education 
connected with military science1 and are
 afterwards admissible in the engineers1
 artillery1 pontooners1 miners1         
inspectors of highways1 public works1   
etc2 they pay #a1jjj francs a year1 find
 their own uniforms1 and whatever may be
 requisite for their studies2 they      
remain two or three years1 as           
circumstances may demand4 ,strangers    

wishing to view this establishment must 
have a permission from the ,minister of 
,war4  ,the ,rue des ,carmes has an     
interesting appearance as containing    
some of the old colleges1 now otherwise 
appropriated4 ,one was the ,college de  
,lisieux2 the buildings remain with a   
curious chapel1 which fronts the ,marche
 des ,carmes1 but its entrance is at    
,no4 #e1 ,rue ,st4 ,jean-de-,beauvais4  
,in the ,market there is a fountain in  
the middle built in #ahah2 this ,market 
is now designated la ,place ,maubert1   
and occupies the site of the ,convent   
des ,carmes4 ,mounting a few steps in   
the ,rue ,st4 ,victor1 we arrive at the 
church of ,st4 ,nicholas-du-,chardonnet2
 the body of the building was completed 
in #agji1 but the lower is of the #afth 
century4 ,the general effect of the     
interior is fine1 but the paintings in  
different chapels1 on either side1 are  
highly interesting2 some of them are    
extremely good1 of the schools of       
,lesueur1 ,moise ,valentin1 and         

,mignard1 the ceiling of the chapel of  
,st4 ,charles is painted by ,lebrun2    
there is also a monument of himself and 
his mother4 ,at ,no4 #fh1 ,rue          
,st-,victor is the ,royal ,institution  
for the juvenile ,blind1 founded by ,m4 
,hauey in #agia4 ,there are here        
maintained #fj boys and #cj girls1 at   
the expense of the ,state1 and as       
boarders1 any blind children may be     
admitted1 either ,french or foreign2    
they are taught reading1 music1         
arithmetic1 and writing1 by means of    
characters raised in relief4 ,admittance
 is freely accorded to strangers1 but   
the establishment is about to be removed
 to the corner of the ,rue de ,sevres1  
on the ,boulevard des ,invalides1 where 
#bej pupils will be accommodated4 ,at   
,no4 #ah1 ,rue de ,pontoise1 is the     
seminary of ,st4 ,nicholas du           
,chardonnet1 and at ,no4 #gf1 the       
ancient ,college of ,cardinal ,lemoine1 
founded in #acjj2 some parts of the     
original building exist1 and on the     

doors are still seen a cardinal's hat   
and arms1 and numerous iron spear-heads4
 ,close by1 in the ,marche aux ,veaux1  
is still one of the dormitories of the  
,convent of the ,bernardins1 which must 
be of the #acth century1 as also some   
remains of their chapel1 in a house     
adjoining the ,market4 ,on the ,quai de 
la ,tournelle1 ,no4 #ce1 is the ,hotel  
de ,nesmond1 of the reign of ,henry     
,,iv1 and at ,no4 #e1 the ,pharmacie    
,centrale1 for keeping all the drugs and
 chemical preparations for the hospitals
 of ,paris4  ,the ,rue de ,fouarre1 by  
which we will pass1 is one of the       
meanest and filthiest in ,paris1 but has
 been cited by ,petrarch1 ,dante and    
,rabelais1 as in it were several of the 
schools where public disputations were  
held2 the ,rue ,galande1 the ,rue des   
,rats1 and many other dirty streets of  
the same description is the quarter     
where existed the old ,university1 and  
still known by the name of the ,quartier
 ,latin4  ,thus having completed our    

survey1 which ,i shall call the         
south-east division1 we will proceed to 
the south-west1 and begin by the church 
of ,st4 ,severin at ,no4 #c1 in the     
street of the same name1 called after a 
hermit who died in the year #ecj1 but   
had on this spot an oratory and cells1  
where he conferred the monastic habit on
 ,st4 ,cloud4 ,the present building was 
erected in #abaj1 in the reign of       
,philippe ,auguste1 has been repaired   
and enlarged at several different       
periods1 which is perceptible by the    
different styles displayed in the       
architecture2 there is a great deal of  
elaborate workmanship about this church 
that is exceedingly beautiful and       
interesting1 the lower part of the tower
 is coeval with its first erection2 a   
few good pictures of the old ,french    
school are amongst the attractive       
objects contained within this edifice4  
,ascending the little unseemly streets  
des ,pretres and ,boutebrie1 we find    
ourselves in the ,rue du ,foin1 ,no4    

#ah1 being called the ,hotel de la      
,reine ,blanche2 she was living about   
the year #abaj1 when the church of ,st4 
,severin close by was founded in the    
reign of her father-in-law1 and very    
probably resided in the neighbourhood1  
perhaps on the very spot where the house
 stands which is now called after her1  
but evidently not in the same building  
which is now shown as such1 although the
 staircase is of a very ancient         
appearance4  ,in the same street1 at the
 corner of the ,rue ,boutebrie1 is the  
old ,college de ,maitre ,gervais1       
founded in #acgj1 at present            
appropriated as a barrack for infantry4 
,the visiter now must prepare for a     
grand treat1 as we turn round into the  
,rue de la ,harpe1 and at ,no4 #fc1 we  
find the venerable and crumbling remains
 of the ,palais des ,thermes 7vide page 
#ee74 ,julian1 who was born in #ccb1    
inhabited it for some time1 and many    
imagine it was built by his grandfather1
 but others state that it was alluded to

 at a still earlier period4 ,of what now
 remains there is principally a large   
hall and a smaller1 forming together one
 room2 the architecture is simple but   
noble1 the walls are adorned by three   
grand arcades1 the middle being the     
loftiest4 ,the vaulting of the roof     
rests upon supports1 representing the   
sterns of ships2 human figures may be   
distinguished in one of them4 ,beneath  
the hall are vaulted apartments         
extending under most of the neighbouring
 houses4 ,an aqueduct is traced as      
having been brought from some leagues1  
for the purpose it is supposed          
principally of supplying the baths4 ,the
 masonry is alternately of stone and    
brick1 in parts covered with a thick    
stucco4 ,it seems almost incredible that
 a monument so ancient1 and of such high
 interest should have been for so long a
 period totally disregarded by the      
government1 and suffered to be occupied 
by a printer1 a traiteur1 and a cooper4 
,the ,municipality of ,paris have now   

however purchased it1 and intend to     
convert it into a museum for the        
reception of antiquities that can be    
collected of the ancient ,gauls4 ,after 
the overthrow of the ,roman yoke1 the   
,palais des ,thermes was inhabited by   
the earliest kings of ,france4 ,to view 
these ruins the stranger must apply to  
the concierge1 ,no4 #fh1 ,rue de la     
,harpe1 directly opposite1 and a trifle 
should be given to the party showing    
them4  ,the ,hotel de ,cluny which is   
almost adjoining1 is also an object     
highly meriting the attention of the    
observer4 ,it is one of those edifices  
of the middle ages1 of which there are  
so few remaining4 ,in #aeje1 in the     
reign of ,louis the ,twelfth1 this      
curious building was erected by ,jacques
 d',amboise1 ,abbot of ,cluny1 on the   
site and with a part of the ruins of the
 ,palais des ,thermes4 ,there is a      
richness about the architecture and the 
ornaments around the windows1 that is   
particularly striking2 the chapel is    

most highly interesting1 and in it was  
married ,princess ,mary1 the widow of   
,louis the ,twelfth1 and sister of      
,henry ,,viii1 to the duke of ,suffolk1 
as also ,james ,v of ,scotland to       
,magdalen1 daughter of ,francis ,i4     
,having at length become the property of
 ,m4 ,sommerard1 all the value of his   
acquisition is duly appreciated1 and he 
has formed within this curious and      
beautiful edifice1 a collection of      
specimens of the middle ages1 which are 
arranged chronologically2 he is the     
author of a most interesting work on the
 subject which may be procured upon the 
premises4 ,the stranger will find a     
visit to the ,hotel de ,cluny one of the
 most gratifying of any he can bestow1  
and on writing to ,m4 ,sommerard1 he may
 be certain of procuring admission4     
,following the ,rue ,st4 ,benoit1 we    
arrive at the ,theatre du ,pantheon1    
,rue ,st4 ,jacques1 opened in #ahcb2 it 
is partly formed by the church ,st4     
,benoit anciently that of ,st4 ,benedict

 built in #aeag1 much famed during the  
ligue1 where the assassination of ,henri
 ,,iii was applauded by ,jean ,boucher  
in his sermons4 ,the performances are   
vaudevilles and melodramas4 ,highest    
price two shillings1 lowest six-pence4  
,we now re-enter the ,rue de la ,harpe1 
and notice the ,royal ,college ,st4     
,louis1 originally founded by ,raoul    
,harcourt in #abhj2 the present building
 was erected in #afge1 but part of the  
ancient edifice exists1 the greater     
portion of the structure was built in   
#ahad2 and the college opened in #ahbj4 
,there is a chapel attached1 and at the 
lower end a gateway1 formerly the       
entrance to the ,college de ,bayeux1    
founded in #acjh1 which bears an        
inscription to that effect1 and probably
 of the same date4 ,a very few steps    
bring us to the ,college de la          
,sorbonne1 built on the site of a school
 founded by ,robert ,sorbon in #abec2 it
 is filled with historical associations1
 the church and all about it has a very 

gloomy appearance1 it is cruciform and  
of the corinthian order1 surmounted by a
 dome the interior of which is painted  
by ,philippe de ,champagne4 ,the tomb of
 ,cardinal de ,richelieu1 in the        
southern transept1 is the chef-d'oeuvre 
of ,gerardon4 ,the college is a plain   
building of sombre aspect1 but the      
accommodation for the professors is on a
 handsome scale2 the lectures delivered 
are all gratuitous4  ,we will now       
proceed to the ,school of ,medicine in  
the street bearing the same name4 ,the  
first stone was laid by ,louis ,,xv1 in 
#agfi1 it is a truly elegant building1 a
 peristyle of the ionic order with a    
quadruple range of columns unite the two
 wings and support the library1 and a   
fine cabinet of anatomy4 ,the grand     
court is #ff feet in length by #if in   
breadth1 the amphitheatre which is      
opposite the entrance is capable of     
containing #a1djj people2 there are     
several allegorical and emblematical    
bas-reliefs1 and on the whole it is a   

building which excites much admiration  
both in an ornamental and in a useful   
point of view1 there not being a single 
object that can in any manner facilitate
 the study of medicine that is not to be
 found within this institution4 ,at ,no4
 #e1 in the same street1 is a gratuitous
 school of drawing1 established in the  
ancient amphitheatre of surgery1 chiefly
 intended for artisans1 to instruct them
 in the principles of drawings and      
architecture1 and lectures are given on 
geometry1 mensuration1 etc4 ,opposite to
 the ,ecole de ,medecine1 is the        
,hopital clinique de la ,faculte de     
,medecine1 established in the cloister  
of the ,cordeliers1 of which there are  
some remains still visible2 it is rather
 a handsome building and contains #adj  
beds4 ,the body of the building is in   
the ,rue de l',observance4 ,in the same 
street as the ,ecole de ,medecine2 is   
the ,musee ,dupuytren1 being the        
valuable pathological collection of that
 celebrated anatomist1 bought by the    

,university of his heirs1 and placed in 
the refectory of the ,cordeliers which  
has been fitted up in the style of the  
#aeth century1 the date of its erection4
  ,adjoining to this ,museum is the     
,school of practical ,anatomy1 being a  
set of dissecting rooms for the use of  
the students4 ,as we are so near ,i must
 conduct the visiter to the ,rue        
,hautefeuille2 on the west side is a    
house of the #afth century1 which once  
belonged to a society of                
,premonstratensian monks4 ,in the same  
street1 ,nos4 #bc1 #ac1 #i and #e1 and  
at the corner of the ,rue du ,paon and  
,rue de l',ecole de ,medecine1 the      
houses have ancient turrets1 and are    
stated to have been built in the reign  
of ,charles ,,vii4 ,in the house1 ,no4  
#ah1 of the latter street1 in a dirty   
backroom1 ,charlotte ,corday stabbed    
that beau ideal of monsters1 ,marat4 ,we
 will now make our way to the ,rue      
d',enfer1 and at ,no4 #cd is the ,hotel 
de ,vendome1 at present the royal       

,school of ,mines2 this noble mansion   
was erected in #agjg by the ,carthusian 
monks1 but being purchased by the       
,duchess of ,vendome was called after   
her4 ,every description of tool or      
instrument used in mining will here be  
found1 and perhaps the extensive        
mineralogical collection is unrivalled  
anywhere in ,europe1 and arranged in the
 most scientific manner by ,m4 ,hauey1  
with a ticket attached to each          
explanatory of their quality and        
locality4 ,the geological specimens have
 been collected by ,messrs4 ,cuvier and 
,bronguiart2 weeks might be passed in   
this museum by those partial to studying
 mineralogy1 geology1 and conchology1   
and subjects for examination and        
meditation would still not be exhausted4
 ,we will now turn into the gardens of  
the ,luxembourg ,palace2 they are in the
 true ,french stiff style1 but look at  
them in a slanting direction and all the
 formality is lost2 the statues are seen
 intermingled with the trees1 shrubs1   

flowers1 parterres1 walks1 vases1       
fountains1 etc4 and the coup-d'oeil has 
a most beautiful effect1 and some of the
 retired walks amongst the high trees   
have a very inviting though solitary    
appearance4  ,the ,palace 7vide page    
#ih7 was erected by ,marie de ,medicis1 
and is now with the recent additions a  
very extensive building1 and taken in a 
general sense is decidedly a very fine  
monument1 but ,i certainly think the    
pillars being in such bad taste with    
large square knobs sticking out all the 
way up the columns1 in a degree spoil   
the effect of the whole edifice1 still  
there is a heavy grandeur in the        
ensemble which has an imposing          
appearance4 ,after having been occupied 
by various royal personages1 it was     
given by ,louis the ,sixteenth to his   
brother afterwards ,louis ,,xviii1 who  
resided in it until he quitted ,france  
in #agia2 it has since been appropriated
 to many different purposes1 and is now 
used as the ,chamber of ,peers2 for     

their discussions a new apartment has   
been constructed #ib feet in diameter1  
the form is semi-circular4 ,in the      
middle of the axis is a recess in which 
the president's and secretaries' seats  
are placed2 above are a range of statues
 in recesses1 the chairs of the peers   
are arranged in an amphitheatrical      
manner and occupy the space in front of 
the president2 the peer who speaks takes
 his place below the president's desk4  
,there are altogether in this palace so 
many statues1 apartments1 sculpture and 
galleries to describe1 that it would    
monopolise far too much space in my     
little volume if ,i were to attempt to  
do it justice4 ,i must therefore content
 myself with advising the reader to take
 the first opportunity of viewing it    
with its beautiful gallery of pictures1 
many of which are the chefs-d'oeuvre of 
the best living ,french artists4 ,in the
 new divisions which have been lately   
constructed there are some fine         
specimens of painting from the pencils  

of ,messrs4 ,delaroche1 ,scheffer1      
,boulanger1 ,roqueplan1 etc41 and the   
chambers voted #hjj1jjj fr4 7#cb1jjjl47 
for the artistical decorations of the   
recent erections added to the original  
building4  ,le ,petit ,luxembourg is a  
large hotel contiguous and may be       
considered as a dependency of the great 
palace1 it was built by ,cardinal       
,richelieu who made it his residence    
whilst the ,palais ,royal was building1 
when he afterwards gave it to his niece 
the ,duchess d',aiguillon4 ,it is now   
occupied by the ,chancellor of ,france1 
as ,president of the ,house of ,peers2  
it also contains a small prison for     
persons committed for political         
offences1 and tried by the ,court of    
,peers3 the ministers of ,charles ,x    
were here confined in #ahcj4 ,in the    
same street1 ,no4 #gj1 is the ,convent  
of the ,carmelite ,sisters1 already     
mentioned1 a portion of the building is 
still devoted to sacred purposes1 the   
chapel is dedicated to ,st4 ,joseph1 and

 of the ,tuscan order1 it was founded by
 ,marie de ,medicis4 ,here first began  
the massacres in ,paris of the #bnd of  
,september1 #agib1 when a number of     
priests here imprisoned were murdered4  
,this is the convent which has long been
 famed for the ,eau de ,melisse and     
,blanc des ,carmes1 which are still sold
 here4  ,at the southern gate of the    
,garden of the ,luxembourg is the       
,jardin botanique de l',ecole de        
,medecine1 where every medicinal plant  
agreeing with the climate is raised1 and
 ticketed as classified by ,jussieu4    
,the ,odeon ,theatre which is near the  
,luxembourg has been twice burnt down1  
but was finally restored in #ahbj2 it is
 situated fronting the street1 and in   
the place of the same name2 it is       
certainly a very handsome building both 
as to the exterior and the interior1    
which is fitted up in a most superior   
style1 but all exertions to render it   
successful seem in vain1 although the   
present director has it rent free from  

the government2 dramatic pieces in      
general are here represented1 but its   
situation prevents its ever being much  
frequented2 the principal front having a
 portico of eight doric columns ascended
 by nine steps has a fine effect2 it is 
capable of containing #a1fjj persons4   
,a very few steps bring us to the       
magnificent church of ,st4 ,sulpice4    
,although the first stone was laid by   
,anne of ,austria1 in #afee1 it was not 
totally finished until #aggg4 ,the      
portico1 by ,servadoni1 is splendid2 the
 two towers not being similar1 rather   
spoil the effect1 but the interior      
baffles all description to do it        
justice2 a simplicity and grandeur      
pervades the whole1 which is heightened 
by a soft light thrown upon the ,virgin 
directly behind the altar1 who appears  
to be descending midst the lightest     
clouds upon the earth1 to which she     
presents her son4 ,the corinthian order 
prevails throughout the interior1 the   
statues are bold and finely conceived1  

some of the paintings are exquisite1    
that of the ceiling1 particularly4 ,two 
immense shells1 placed within the       
entrance1 for containing holy water1    
resting on rocks of marble1 were        
presented to ,francis ,i1 by the        
,republic of ,venice4 ,the pulpit is    
supported by two flights of steps1 with 
the figures of ,faith1 ,hope1 and       
,charity1 producing a most splendid     
appearance4 ,the organ is ornamented    
with no less than seventeen figures     
playing on musical instruments1 or      
sustaining cornucopies carved in the    
most perfect manner4 ,the pillars on the
 different sides of this edifice        
comprise the four orders of doric1      
ionic1 corinthian1 and composite4 ,i    
cannot conceive a more sublime and      
delightful sensation than that which is 
caused when the first low notes of the  
organ begin to swell2 the aisles being  
extremely lofty and vaulted1 the sound  
appears gradually to peal through the   
building with a degree of softness which

 seems as if it came from a considerable
 distance1 and has a most extraordinary 
and enchanting effect4 ,we will now quit
 this noble edifice by the grand front1 
and looking to the left cast an         
instant's glance upon a large plain     
building1 which is the ,seminary of ,st4
 ,sulpice1 and has #baj students4       
,descending the ,rue ,mabillon a few    
paces1 we come to the ,market ,st4      
,germains1 where formerly flourished the
 great fair under the same name4 ,it was
 built in #ahaa on a most commodious    
plan1 and has every requisite that can  
be thought of for the convenience of a  
market1 with an extremely handsome      
fountain in the middle1 which the       
visiter should not omit to observe4     
,quitting the ,market by the ,rue       
,montfaucon brings us in front of the   
prison of the ,abbaye1 in the ,rue ,st4 
,marguerite1 now only used for confining
 military offenders2 here it was that   
some of the greatest horrors were       
committed during the ,revolution1 it has

 a small turret at each corner1 and     
seems to be a building of about two     
hundred years standing4 ,not many yards 
off is the very ancient church of ,st4  
,germain des ,pres 7vide page #fa71     
which has often been pillaged1 burnt1   
and otherwise injured1 but the lower    
part of the tower is coeval with the    
foundation1 #eeh4 ,the document relative
 to the establishment of the monastery  
and church is still preserved amongst   
the archives of the kingdom1 and bears  
the date #efa4 ,the nave is simple and  
of the time of ,abbot ,modardus1 in the 
year #ijj2 additions and repairs have   
been made at different periods1 but in  
many instances the style of architecture
 displays its early date1 the capitals  
of the pillars are remarkable for the   
grotesqueness of the devices4 ,there are
 some pictures of merit1 and many       
interesting tombs1 one of ,casimir1 the 
,king of ,poland1 who abdicated his     
throne in #affh1 and died abbot of the  
monastery attached to the church in     

#afgb1 also of the ,duke and ,earls of  
,douglas and ,angus4 ,the ,abbot's      
palace still stands at the east of the  
church1 in the ,rue de l',abbaye1       
directly facing the ,rue ,furstemberg2  
it was built in the year #aehf by       
,cardinal ,bourbon4 ,it is a large      
heavy-looking red brick building faced  
with stone1 with a large garden behind2 
it is at present let out to different   
tenants4  ,we shall now descend the ,rue
 ,furstemberg1 and taking the ,rue      
,jacob1 to the right shall get into the 
,rue de ,seine1 and mounting the little 
,passage du ,pont-,neuf1 one of the     
oldest in ,paris1 we find ourselves     
opposite the ,rue ,guenegaud cited by   
,sterne1 as also the ,quai ,conti1 on   
which stands the ,mint or ,hotel des    
,monnaies1 a very extensive building and
 rather handsome2 it was built in the   
reign of ,louis ,,xv in #agga1 after    
designs furnished by ,m4 ,antoine2 an   
entablature supported by ionic columns  
forms the principal front1 with six     

statues of ,peace1 ,commerce1 ,prudence1
 ,fortitude1 ,plenty and ,law4 ,on the  
right is a noble staircase ascending to 
apartments fitted up with the splendour 
of a palace4 ,the collection of coins   
and medals here are extremely           
interesting1 the first are two of       
,childebert1 the dates being #eaa-efh1  
and they are nearly complete of the     
respective kings up to the present day1 
amongst others are some of the gold     
pieces of #aj louis1 each of the reign  
of ,louis ,,xiii1 very large and        
beautiful4 ,a medal of ,charlemagne of  
most exquisite execution1 and others of 
almost every country or celebrated      
monarch or chief1 with a collection of  
the ores in their mineral state1 every  
instrument used for coining and in fact 
every object appertaining to such an    
establishment1 which would demand much  
space and time to describe1 and a work  
is written solely on the subject4 ,this 
interesting museum is open to foreigners
 with their passports on ,mondays and   

,thursdays1 from twelve till three4     
,contiguous and on the western side     
stands the ,palais of the ,institute1 or
 as we should call it the ,royal        
,academy4 ,it was founded by ,cardinal  
,mazarin in #affa1 from designs by      
,levau4 ,the segment of a circle        
describes the front1 whilst pavillions  
upon open arcades terminate the         
extremities1 a portico in the centre    
with corinthian colums surmounted by a  
pediment1 whilst a dome crowns the      
summit1 and vases upon the entablature  
combine to give it a fine effect4 ,in   
the great hall of this building the     
members of the ,academy hold their      
sittings2 the vestibules are adorned by 
marble statues of men whose intellectual
 powers have rendered their names       
renowned throughout the world1 as       
,montesquieu1 ,moliere1 ,corneille1     
,racine1 ,sully1 etc41 etc4 ,the        
,mazarine library is attached to this   
institution and contains #abj1jjj       
printed volumes besides #d1ejj          

manuscripts4 ,there is also under the   
same establishment the library of the   
,institute1 which includes #aae1jjj     
volumes2 in the gallery in which they   
are contained is a marble statue of     
,voltaire1 by ,pigale1 highly celebrated
 for its execution4 ,this building was  
for some time called the ,palais des    
,quatre-,nations1 as the founder at     
first designed it for natives of        
,roussillon1 ,pignerol1 ,alsace1 and    
,flanders4 ,the subjects discussed      
within the halls of this institution are
 the ,belles-,lettres1 the fine ,arts1  
moral and political ,sciences1 etc4     
,persons desiring tickets for the       
meetings of the members must inscribe   
their names at the office of the        
secretary of the ,institute4 ,directly  
opposite is a light elegant bridge1     
called the ,pont-des-,arts1 it is       
constructed of iron and is merely for   
foot passengers4  ,passing to the ,quai 
,voltaire we turn into the ,rue des     
,petits-,augustins1 and stop before the 

front of the ,palais and ,ecole des     
,beaux-,arts1 or ,school of fine ,arts2 
this is one of the many institutions    
which exist in ,paris requiring a volume
 to describe all its beauties and       
utility1 there are a great number of    
professors belonging to the             
establishment which is divided into two 
sections1 the one for sculpture and     
painting1 the other for architecture1   
both of which the pupils are taught1 and
 when they excel1 receive annual prizes4
 ,the present building was erected upon 
the garden of the ,convent of the       
,petits ,augustins1 but there are still 
some remains of antiquity1 which are    
rather strangely intermingled with the  
modern erection1 as the front of a      
chateau at ,gaillon built in #a1ejj and 
transported here by ,m4 ,lenoir1 who    
collected together on this spot relicks 
of the middle ages1 which are now again 
dispersed to the great regret of every  
resident or visiter in ,paris4 ,there is
 also the portal of the ,chateau-d',anet

 built by ,henri ,,ii for ,diana of     
,poitiers1 with many other objects      
extremely curious2 amongst the rest a   
large stone basin from the ,abbey of    
,st4 ,denis1 #ab feet in diameter1      
ornamented with grotesque heads1 said to
 be a single piece of stone1 some       
letters upon it prove that it must be of
 the #acth century1 and many other      
fragments over which the antiquary likes
 to pore4 ,here every aid is given to   
the young artist1 that can facilitate   
his progress in his art1 and he who is  
adjudged to have painted the best piece 
upon a subject given1 is sent to ,rome  
to study three years1 at the expense of 
the government4 ,the visiter will here  
find paintings1 sculpture1 models1 and  
in fact1 every thing connected with the 
fine arts4 ,he must also visit the      
ancient chapel of the convent1          
containing a most beautiful screen of   
stone and marble1 and on the walls are  
some very good paintings3 ,mr4 ,ingres1 
perhaps the most celebrated draftsman   

now existing1 made a present to this    
institution of fifty pictures1 copies he
 had executed at his expense in the     
,vatican1 from ,raphael4 ,foreigners    
must apply with their passports for     
admission at the office to the right on 
entering4  ,we return on the ,quay and  
remark the ,pont du ,carousel1 an iron  
bridge of three arches of an elegant    
construction1 it was built by a company1
 who have laid a toll both on foot and  
carriage passengers4 ,no4 #a1 ,rue de   
,beaune1 on the same quay1 is the hotel 
where ,voltaire resided1 and died in    
#aghh4 ,his nephew1 ,m4 de ,villette1   
and afterwards ,madame de ,montmorenci1 
kept his apartments closed for          
forty-seven years4 ,we must now ascend  
the ,rue des ,saints ,peres1 and in     
passing by1 notice the ,hopital de la   
,charite1 at the corner of the ,rue     
,jacob1 which has such a dismal         
appearance outside1 that it almost makes
 one ill to look at it2 indeed1 to pass 
it often1 one would soon be in a fit    

state to become one of its inmates2 it  
was founded by ,marie de ,medicis1 as a 
religious community1 called ,brothers of
 ,charity1 who were all surgeons and    
apothecaries1 administering relief both 
for body and soul2 it contains #dbf     
beds4 ,besides those belonging to the   
medical and chemical school attached to 
it1 there are several gardens in which  
the patients are allowed to walk2 the   
same diseases are here treated as at the
 ,hotel ,dieu1 de la ,pitie1 etc4       
,turning to the right into the ,rue ,st4
 ,dominique1 at the end of the second   
street on the north we shall see the    
church of ,st4 ,thomas d',aquin2 it was 
formerly a convent of ,jacobins1 founded
 by ,cardinal ,richelieu4 ,the present  
front was built in #aghg1 by ,brother   
,claude1 one of the monks2 it has two   
ranges of columns1 doric and ionic1     
surmounted by a pediment with a         
bas-relief representing ,religion1      
terminating with a cross4 ,the interior 
is decorated with corinthian pilasters1 

the effect is altogether fine1 the high 
altar is of white marble1 and some of   
the pictures are extremely good2 the    
nobility attend much at this church1 and
 it is rather famed for its preachers4  
,the ,musee d',artillerie is adjoining1 
and contains the armour worn from the   
earliest ages1 as also the weapons which
 have been used1 and those of different 
countries4 ,here will be found the      
armour of many heroes famed in the      
annals of chivalry1 as ,bayard1 ,dunois1
 ,duguesclin1 etc41 and an equestrian   
figure of ,francis ,i4 ,there is also   
the helmet of ,attila1 who was slain by 
,clovis1 in #dec2 another1 on which are 
some verses from the ,koran1 of         
,abderama1 killed by ,charles ,martel4  
,the dagger with which ,ravillac        
assassinated ,henri ,,iv1 having a black
 crape round it4 ,there are1 besides1   
models of all kinds of machines         
connected with war2 the armour of ,joan 
of ,arc will be regarded with interest1 
as also of many others whose names have 

been celebrated in history2 a catalogue 
descriptive of every object is to be had
 at the door for one franc4 ,there is a 
military library attached to the        
establishment1 with naval charts1 etc4  
,strangers are admitted on ,thursdays   
and ,saturdays1 from twelve till four1  
with their passports4  ,a few steps take
 us into the ,rue du ,bac1 which we will
 ascend to the ,rue de ,grenelle1 and   
observe one of the finest fountains in  
,paris1 erected after the designs of    
,bouchardon1 in the reign of ,louis     
,,xv1 began #agci and finished in #agde2
 it is most richly adorned by statues   
and allegorical subjects4 ,at ,no4 #abj1
 ,rue du ,bac1 is the church of ,st4    
,francois ,xavier1 or of ,foreign       
,missionaries1 it was built in #afhc1   
consisting of two parts1 one on the     
ground floor1 and the other above1 the  
lower is perfectly plain1 the upper is  
of the ionic order2 there are some good 
paintings of the ,french school of the  
period4 ,behind is the seminary for the 

instruction of young men intended as    
missionaries in the requisite sciences  
and languages4 ,the worthy ,abbe        
,edgeworth1 the attendant of ,louis     
,,xvi in his last moments1 was one of   
the members of this institution4  ,just 
by in the ,rue de ,babylone is a barrack
 for infantry1 famed for the attack and 
defence carried on in the ,revolution of
 the three days4 ,in the rue ,vanneau is
 a recently built house1 a complete type
 of the style of ,francis ,i4 ,in the   
,rue de ,varennes are several grand     
hotels of the nobility of ,france1 with 
their family names inscribed over the   
immense gateways2 it is in fact one of  
the most interesting streets in ,paris2 
amongst others1 at ,no4 #bc1 is the     
hotel of the late ,duchess de ,bourbon1 
now belonging to ,mme ,adelaide         
d',orleans4 ,no4 #ce1 is the hotel      
d',orsay1 recently restored and         
embellished1 and several others of the  
same description4 ,at the north-west    
corner of the street stands the hotel de

 ,biron1 now converted into the         
celebrated convent and seminary of the  
,sacre ,coeur 7,sacred ,heart71 where so
 many daughters of the ,french1 ,english
 and ,irish catholic nobility have been 
brought up4 ,no4 #af1 the offices of the
 ,minister of ,commerce1 and ,no4 #aj1  
,rue ,hillerin-,bertin1 is the ,ecole   
royale des ,ponts-et-,chaussees1        
established in #agdg4 ,the pupils1 who  
are all taken from the ,polytechnique1  
are instructed in every thing connected 
with the projection and construction of 
bridges1 canals1 ports and public works4
 ,their collection of plans1 maps1 and  
models relative to these operations is  
very rich4 ,but a few paces southward   
bring us facing the ancient convent of  
,panthemont1 now used as a barrack for  
cavalry1 forming the corner of the ,rue 
de ,belle-,chasse and that of the ,rue  
de ,grenelle2 the chapel1 which has a   
dome1 is an interesting architectural   
object4  ,this is one of the            
aristocratic streets of ,paris1 where   

the most ancient families of ,france    
have their town residences2 the ,rue    
,st4 ,dominique is of the same          
description1 and many others in this    
neighbourhood1 but in too many cases    
immense gateways and high walls are all 
that are to be seen in the streets1 as  
the hotels are situated behind them at  
the end of large court-yards1 similar to
 several houses in ,piccadilly the most 
of which are now pulled down3 on the    
west side of ,cavendish square one is   
still standing 7,i believe ,lord        
,harcourt's71 and several others in     
different parts of the west end of the  
town4 ,the most conspicuous hotels in   
the ,rue ,st4 ,dominique1 are those of  
the ,duke de ,lynes1 ,no4 #cc1 the hotel
 of the late ,duchess ,dowager of       
,orleans1 ,no4 #eh1 formerly inhabited  
by ,cambaceres4 ,the ,hotel de          
,grammont1 ,no4 #ajc1 and the ,hotel de 
,perigord1 ,no4 #aje4 ,at #hb and #hf1  
are the residence and offices of the    
,minister of ,war1 where there is a very

 valuable library1 with a most          
interesting collection of plans1 maps1  
and drawings4 ,we will now return to the
 ,rue du ,bac1 and at ,no4 #acb1 we     
shall notice the ,hotel ,chatillon1 now 
occupied by the sisters of ,st4 ,vincent
 de ,paule1 better known as the ,sisters
 of ,charity4  ,at the top of the street
 we find the ,rue de ,sevres1 and       
turning to the left we shall view1 at   
the corner of the ,rue de la ,chaise1   
the old ,hospital entitled ,hospices des
 ,menages2 it was built in #aeed on the 
site of an old establishment for        
afflicted children1 and is now          
appropriated to the reception of the    
aged1 whether married couples or single2
 there are #bfd beds1 and an extensive  
garden attached to the establishment4   
,strangers may visit this hospital every
 day1 and will find the detail of the   
regulations very interesting4 ,a few    
yards eastward bring us to the          
,abbaye-aux-,bois1 so called when it was
 founded in #abjb from being in the     

midst of the woods2 this church         
possesses a few good pictures1 amongst  
which are a ,virgin and dead ,christ1 by
 ,lebrun1 and a portrait of ,mlle de la 
,valliere4 ,opposite is the ,maison du  
,noviciat des ,religieuses              
,hospitalieres de ,st4 ,thomas de       
,villeneuve4 ,still continuing in the   
,rue de ,sevres1 at ,no4 #ed1 is the    
hospital for women who are incurable2 it
 was founded in #afcd by ,cardinal de la
 ,rochefoucault1 which is indicated by  
an inscription over the door2 it        
contains #fjj beds4 ,there is a large   
chapel attached1 in which there are some
 pictures1 and one bearing the date of  
#adjd with a handsome monument of the   
founder4  ,the ,egyptian fountain in    
this street is well worth attention1 it 
was built in #ahjf1 and is a very       
handsome monument4 ,at ,no4 #ajd1 corner
 of the ,boulevards1 is the convent of  
the ,dames de ,st4 ,thomas de           
,villeneuve1 with a very pretty little  
gothic chapel4 ,at ,no4 #ie is that of  

the ,lazarists1 with a small chapel     
fronting the street4 ,at the corner of  
the ,boulevard on the north side are new
 buildings1 erected for the reception of
 the juvenile blind4 ,no4 #adi is the   
,hopital des ,enfants malades2 it is    
wholly appropriated to the reception of 
sick children1 who are admitted from #b 
to #ae years of age2 it contains #ejj   
beds1 which number is to be considerably
 increased4 ,next door is an hospital   
founded by ,madame ,necker in a building
 which formerly was a convent of        
,benedictine nuns2 it is for the        
reception of the sick in general1 and   
contains #cjj beds2 the chapel attached 
has two fine statues of ,aaron and      
,melchizedek1 in marble1 discovered in  
digging the foundations of a house2 a   
short distance farther on1 is an        
,artesian well1 which after many long1  
expensive1 and most laborious attempts1 
at last emits water from the enormous   
depth of nearly #ahjj feet2 it rises to 
the height of #fe feet1 and falls into  

the respective conduits destined to     
receive it4 ,it is situated at the      
entrance of the ,abattoir de ,grenelle  
which is one of the extensive           
slaughter-houses at the outskirts of    
,paris1 all of which are justly         
celebrated for the regularity of the    
buildings1 the order with which every   
thing is conducted1 and the great       
convenience of their being situated     
where they cannot be any source of      
annoyance to the inhabitants of the     
interior of the capital4  ,the ,ecole   
,militaire stands at the end of an      
avenue of trees1 just before us2 it was 
founded by ,louis ,,xv1 in #agea1 for   
educating gratuitously #ejj young       
gentlemen1 the sons of poor nobility1   
but it is now converted into barracks   
for #d1jjj men1 either cavalry1         
artillery1 or infantry4 ,one front1     
looking to the ,champ de ,mars1 is      
adorned with ten corinthian pillars1    
sustaining a pediment decorated with    
bas-reliefs1 whilst a quadrangular dome1

 rises from behind1 with figures of     
,time and ,astronomy2 there are besides 
in other parts of the edifice1 rows of  
tuscan1 doric1 and ionic pillars1 the   
buildings surround two spacious         
court-yards2 on the first floor is the  
,salle de ,conseil1 embellished with    
pictures and military emblems4 ,the     
chapel attached to the establishment is 
most splendid1 the roof is supported by 
thirty fluted corinthian columns3 the   
entrance to the ,ecole ,militaire is by 
the ,place de ,fontenoy4  ,the          
,champ-de-,mars is a most extensive     
oblong piece of ground1 in which has    
been celebrated many extraordinary      
epochs in the history of ,france2 the   
sloping embankments on each side were   
formed by the people of ,paris2 as many 
as #fj1jjj persons of both sexes kept   
working at them until they were         
finished1 when the fete de la           
,federation took place on the #adth     
,july1 #agij4 ,it was also the scene of 
several other public demonstrations1 and

 in #ahcg1 on the #adth of ,june1 during
 the rejoicings for the celebration of  
the marriage of the ,duke of ,orleans1  
#bd persons lost their lives by being   
either suffocated or trodden to death in
 passing through the gates4 ,the ,paris 
races are held here in ,may and         
,september1 as also the military        
reviews1 inspections1 manoeuvres1 etc4  
,proceeding by an avenue from the       
north-cast corner of the ,champ-de-,mars
 we arrive at the ,hotel des ,invalides1
 which is certainly the grandest        
monument that exists of the reign of    
,louis ,,xiv4 ,it is a most delightful  
asylum for crippled or worn-out old     
soldiers1 it was built after the designs
 of ,bruant1 begun in #afga1 and        
completed in #agjj4 ,the facade towards 
the ,seine1 though heavy1 is grand and  
imposing1 adorned by the statue of      
,louis the ,,xiv1 and colossal figures  
of ,mars1 ,minerva1 ,justice and        
,prudence1 in bas-relief1 and at the    
sides by emblematical representations of

 the four nations conquered by the      
founder4  ,the first court has the most 
pleasing appearance1 the arcades render 
it light and elegant1 and although      
ornamented with figures1 arms1 horses1  
and trophies1 they are not exuberant1   
and its simplicity is not deteriorated4 
,the church is a most magnificent       
structure1 presenting an extraordinary  
mixture of military and religious       
decorations4 ,the dome1 which has an    
effect truly noble1 is adorned by       
paintings of the twelve ,apostles by    
,jouvenet1 surmounted by a glory from   
the pencil of ,lafosse1 with a beautiful
 tesselated pavement beneath2 there are 
some other good paintings1 but many very
 bad4 ,the gilding1 although extremely  
gorgeous1 harmonises well with the      
varied colouring which prevails         
throughout this beautiful edifice1 and  
has not a gaudy appearance4 ,there are  
monuments of several of the governors of
 the hospital2 numbers of portraits1 and
 banners taken from different countries1

 which amounted to as many as #c1jjj1   
but on the evening prior to the allies  
entering ,paris1 ,joseph ,bonaparte     
ordered them to be burnt4 ,to give any  
thing like a comprehensive idea of this 
wonderful building1 would require many  
pages1 there is such an immense number  
of interesting objects1 the description 
of which would compel the omission of   
other matter equally important2 but1    
whether taken for its exterior or its   
interior1 it certainly is one of the    
grandest monuments extant4 ,the         
approaches to it are particularly fine1 
being by long vistas of high trees1 with
 a most noble esplanade in front4 ,a    
library belongs to the establishment    
which was founded by ,napoleon2 it      
consists of #cj1jjj volumes1 and his    
portrait by ,ingres is one of its       
valuable ornaments4 ,it is gratifying to
 see so many of the ,invalids constantly
 in the library1 amusing themselves with
 reading2 it is a pleasing sight to be  
there at meal-time to witness the       

cleanliness and comfort which prevails4 
,besides board and lodging1 every       
soldier receives #b francs a month1 and 
officers and non-commissioned officers  
in proportion2 #e1jjj is the number the 
establishment can contain4  ,in quitting
 this extraordinary building1 the       
visiter must notice the ,hotel du       
,chatelet at the corner of the ,rue de  
,grenelle1 now occupied by the ,austrian
 ambassador1 being a fine specimen of   
the days of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,we then pass 
into the ,rue ,st4 ,dominique1 and at   
,no4 #ahe find the ,hospice ,leprince1  
so called after the founder1 erected in 
#ahai2 it contains #aj beds for men and 
#aj for women2 almost opposite is the   
church of ,st4                          
,pierre-du-,gros-,caillou1 which was    
built in #ahbb1 and is much admired for 
its beautiful symmetry2 the whole is    
consistently of the tuscan order4       
,farther to the west is the military    
hospital founded by the ,duke de ,biron 
for the ,french guards1 containing #gjj 

beds and erections for #ejj more are to 
be added shortly4 ,directly opposite is 
the ,fountain of ,mars built in #ahac1 a
 monument very well worth the visiter's 
attention4 ,continuing a few yards      
farther to the west1 we enter the       
,avenue de la ,bourdonnaye1 and turning 
to the right we come to the ,atteliers  
de ,sculpture1 consisting of two        
handsome buildings where sculptors      
employed by government on public        
monuments may proceed with their        
operations2 stone-yards1 sheds1 a house 
for the director1 and the whole         
arrangement is most complete for the    
attainment of the object2 visiters may  
obtain tickets from the ,director of    
public ,monuments1 ,palais du ,quai     
d',orsay4  ,the royal ,manufactory of   
,tobacco1 ,snuff1 and ,cigars is at a   
short distance eastward1 ,no4 #eg1 ,quai
 d',orsay1 an extensive establishment   
for the preparation of the articles1    
with a handsome modern house for the    
offices1 and residence for the director4

 ,the profits of this establishment in  
#ahci to the government were #ff1jja1hda
 francs1 upwards of #b1ejj1jjj,l4 ,we   
will now proceed along the quai1 and    
notice the bridges2 first the ,pont de  
,iena1 terminated in #ahac1 it is       
completely in a horizontal line1 and is 
certainly a perfect structure1 uniting  
elegance1 beauty1 and simplicity4  ,the 
,pont des ,invalides is a handsome      
suspension bridge for carriages as well 
as foot passengers2 a toll is paid in   
passing over it4 ,pursuing our course   
eastward we arrive at the ,palais       
,bourbon1 and ,chamber of ,deputies1    
which was erected by the dowager        
,duchess of ,bourbon1 in #agbb1 begun by
 the ,italian architect ,girardini1 and 
continued by ,mansard4 ,it was          
afterwards much enlarged when possessed 
by the ,prince de ,conde1 but not       
completed when the ,revolution of #aghi 
occurred4 ,in #agie it was appropriated 
as the ,chamber for the sittings of the 
,council of ,five ,hundred1 and next    

occupied by the ,corps ,legislatif4 ,at 
the ,restoration in #ahad the ,prince de
 ,conde retook possession1 but so       
arranged that the portion which had been
 converted into a locality for the      
sittings of the ,legislative ,assembly1 
and which had been partly rebuilt1      
should be appropriated to the use of the
 ,deputies1 and finally was bought by   
government for #e1ejj1jjj francs4 ,at   
the death of the ,duke de ,bourbon this 
palace devolved upon the ,duke          
d',aumale1 and is leased to the ,chamber
 of ,deputies for the residence of the  
,president1 but will soon become the    
property of the country by a negociation
 at present pending4 ,the entrance of   
the ,palais ,bourbon is by the ,rue de  
l',universite1 and being approached by a
 long avenue of trees has the air of a  
country seat2 formerly the apartments   
were gorgeously furnished1 now simple   
beauty and utility alone prevail2 there 
are a few good pictures1 and one room   
decorated with bucks' horns1 and        

different emblems of the chase2 there is
 a large garden laid out in the ,english
 style4 ,the grand front of the portion 
styled the ,chamber of ,deputies is     
exactly opposite the handsome bridge    
called the ,pont de la ,concorde1 and is
 from thence seen to the best advantage2
 it is a noble massive building with    
colossal statues of ,sully1 ,colbert1   
l',hopital1 and d',aguesseau1 there are 
besides several allegorical figures1 and
 #ab noble corinthian columns1          
supporting a fine bas-relief recently   
completed1 approached by a flight of #bi
 steps2 for so much weight as there     
appears in this building1 ,i should say 
there was not sufficient height1 and the
 breadth is immense1 still the effect is
 dignified and imposing4  ,the ,chamber 
itself is a semi-circular hall with #bd 
white marble ionic columns and bronze   
capitals gilt4 ,the president's chair   
and the tribune form the centre of the  
axis of the semi-circle1 from whence the
 seats rise of the #dei deputies1 in the

 shape of an amphitheatre4 ,a spacious  
double gallery capable of containing    
#gjj persons surrounds the semi-circular
 part of the ,chamber1 arranged with    
tribunes for the royal family1 the corps
 diplomatique1 officers of state and the
 public4 ,there are a number of very    
fine statues1 as well as some extremely 
clever pictures by the first ,french    
artists1 and there1 is a library of     
#ej1jjj volumes4 ,anyone with a passport
 may visit the ,chamber1 but for the    
debates a letter post-paid must be      
addressed to ,m4 le ,questeur de la     
,chambre des ,deputes1 who will send a  
ticket of admission4 ,a short distance  
to the east is the ,palace of the       
,legion of ,honour1 erected in #aghf    
after designs by ,rousseau for the      
,prince de ,salm1 after whom it was     
called4 ,the entrance is by a triumphal 
arch1 and a colonnade of the ionic order
 with two pavillions4 ,at the end of a  
court yard is the principal front       
consisting of a fine portico1 adorned   

with large corinthian pillars4 ,the side
 which fronts the ,seine is particularly
 light and graceful1 having a circular  
projection adorned with columns         
supporting a balustrade with six        
statues4 ,when the ,prince de ,salm was 
beheaded in #agic1 the hotel was put up 
to lottery1 and won by a journey man    
hairdresser1 and in #ahjc it was        
appropriated to its present object2     
strangers are admitted without any      
difficulty4  ,the ,palais du ,quai      
,d',orsay is almost adjoining1 and      
although one of the most magnificent1   
yet one of the most chaste edifices in  
,paris2 it has never received any       
decided name4 ,it was begun under       
,napoleon1 and then remained dormant    
until #ahcj1 and in the present reign   
has been finished in the most perfect   
style4 ,the grand front which faces the 
river presents a long series of windows 
formed by arches beneath a tuscan       
colonnade on the ground-floor2 the one  
above is similar1 except being of the   

ionic order1 surmounted by a sort of    
corinthian attic2 the court is          
surrounded by a double series of        
,italian arcades1 there are four        
staircases1 placed at each corner1 one  
styled the escalier d'honneur1 is       
absolutely splendid1 both as regards the
 construction and the richness of its   
ornaments4 ,the chief entrance is in the
 ,rue de ,lille1 and there are side     
gateways into other streets4 ,the       
ground-floor is appropriated to the     
,council of ,state and the offices      
attached1 the first floor to the ,cour  
des ,comptes1 and the third to the      
conservation of the ,archives of these  
two public bodies4 ,this noble structure
 has cost upwards of twelve million     
francs4  ,we will now cast one glance at
 the ,hotel ,praslin1 which also has its
 entrance in the ,rue de ,lille1 ,no4   
#ed2 its terrace is perceptible from the
 quay1 it is one of the most extensive  
and grandest mansions of the old        
nobility4 ,the next building is a       

barrack for cavalry1 which is totally   
devoid of any ornament or beauty4 ,we   
now arrive at the ,pont ,royal1 an old  
but substantial bridge1 built by a      
,dominican friar in #afhd4 ,the river   
here was formerly crossed by a ferry    
7bac71 which gave the name to the ,rue  
du ,bac4  ,i shall now advise that we   
take a boat and see how ,paris looks    
from the water1 affording us a good view
 of the quays as we pass between them2  
we also get an excellent sight of the   
,point ,neuf already described1 and     
which has a very fine effect as we      
approach it4 ,we next come to the ,pont 
au ,change1 formerly a wooden bridge2 in
 #aada ,louis ,,vii fixed the residence 
of the money changers upon it1 hence it 
derived its name2 the present structure 
was built in #afci4 ,the ,pont ,notre   
,dame soon after arrests the eye 7vide  
page #hg71 it was begun #adii and       
finished in #aejg1 after the designs of 
,jean ,joconde2 on the western side is  
an engine called ,pompe du ,pont ,notre 

,dame1 consisting of a square tower     
erected upon piles1 having a reservoir  
into which water is elevated1 by        
machinery impelled by the current of the
 water4 ,we next pass under the ,pont   
d',arcole1 built in #ahbh2 it is a      
suspension bridge1 and there is a toll  
upon it4 ,the circumstances from which  
it derives its name are very singular4  
,a young man1 in #ahcj1 during the      
murderous conflict which here took place
 between the royal guard and the people1
 rushed on the bridge with a flag in his
 hand1 heading the patriots1 and was    
killed under the archway in the middle2 
his name was ,arcole1 and the same trait
 of courage was displayed by ,napoleon  
on the bridge of ,arcola2 hence its     
present designation4  ,a little farther 
on we pass close to the house where it  
is pretended lived ,fulbert1 uncle of   
,heloise2 the outward part of the       
building does not bear the impression of
 being as old as the period when        
,abelard lived1 as he was born in #ajhj1

 and died in #aadb2 the cellars1        
however1 have a very ancient appearance2
 visiters are admitted1 on applying to  
the owner of the dwelling1 which is     
situated ,no4 #a1 ,rue des ,chantres1 on
 the north-eastern side of the ,isle de 
,paris1 not far from ,notre ,dame4      
,illustration3 ,paris in the #aith      
,century4 ,published by ,f4 ,sinnett1   
#ae1 ,grande rue ,verte4  ,resuming our 
course upon the water we come to the    
,pont ,louis-,philippe1 a fine          
suspension bridge constructed in #ahcd1 
of iron wire1 with two bold arches of   
stone4 ,the next bridge is called the   
,pont ,marie1 and was built in #afda1   
but had two arches2 and #bb houses1 out 
of #ej1 which stood upon it1 were       
carried away by a flood in #afdh4 ,we   
now arrive at the ,pont de ,damiette1   
another suspension bridge connecting the
 north and southern quays of the ,seine 
with the ,ile ,louviers1 until very     
recently an immense depot for fire wood1
 but now many handsome residences are   

being erected1 with which the whole of  
the little island will soon be covered4 
,we shall now land on the ,quay des     
,celestins1 and explore the north-east  
quarter of ,paris1 beginning with the   
,arsenal which contains a library of    
#bjj1jjj printed volumes1 and #f1jjj    
manuscripts1 amongst which are some     
beautiful missals4 ,henri ,,iv having   
appointed ,sully grand-master of the    
artillery1 he resided in the buildings  
constructed on this spot purposely for  
him1 and they now show a bed-room and a 
cabinet in which he used to receive his 
royal visiter2 they are richly gilt     
according to the style of that period1  
and may be seen with passport by        
applying to the ,director4 ,close to the
 ,arsenal on the ,quai des ,celestins   
are the remains of the once celebrated  
,convent of the ,celestins1 and of their
 small church which after that of ,st4  
,denis contained more tombs of          
illustrious individuals than any in     
,paris4 ,it was particularly remarked   

for the chapel d',orleans1 which        
enclosed the remains of the brother of  
,charles ,,vi and his descendants4 ,the 
architecture is interesting as being a  
specimen of the pointed style prevailing
 in ,paris in the #adth century1 a part 
of the convent buildings are converted  
into cavalry barracks1 and the rest are 
in a state of dilapidation4 ,facing the 
,arsenal is the ,grenier de ,reserve1 on
 the ,boulevard ,bourdon1 which is an   
immense storehouse for corn1 grain and  
flour requisite for the consumption of  
,paris for four months4  ,it was began  
by ,napoleon in #ahjg1 it is #b1afj feet
 in length and #fd in breath4 ,every    
baker in ,paris is obliged to have      
constantly deposited here #bj full sacks
 of flour1 and as many more as he       
pleases by paying a trifle for warehouse
 room4 ,just a few steps northward is   
the ,government ,depot of powder and    
saltpetre4  ,at a short distance in the 
,rue ,st4 ,antoine1 ,no4 #baf1 is the   
small church of the ,visitation built by

 ,mansard in #afcb1 for the ,sisters of 
the ,visitation4 ,it has a dome         
supported by ,corinthian pillars1 and   
the interior is richly ornamented with  
scroll work1 wreaths of flowers1 etc4   
,it is now appropriated to the          
protestant worship1 and there is service
 on ,sundays1 and festivals at half past
 #ab4 ,on the southern side of the      
,boulevard ,st4 ,antoine is the ,theatre
 ,st4 ,antoine1 erected in #ahcf2 the   
performances are vaudevilles1 little    
melodrama1 and farces4 ,the admission is
 from #f;d4 to #bs4 #f;d4 ,it contains  
#a1bbf places4 ,the ,place de la        
,bastille is now before us1 and still   
may be seen the desolate remains of the 
great plaster cast of the enormous      
elephant1 intended by ,napoleon to have 
been placed on this spot1 which is now  
decorated with what is called the       
,column of ,july4 ,the capital is said  
to be the largest piece of bronze ever  
cast1 the height is #afc feet1 and it is
 surmounted by an orb on which is placed

 the figure of ,liberty2 and is         
ornamented with lions1 heads1 cocks1    
children bearing garlands and other     
emblematical objects1 but the effect of 
the whole is not happy1 there is a sort 
of indescribable deficiency1 although   
the cost was #a1bjj1jjj;f41 besides an  
immense outlay1 years before1 for the   
foundation4 ,the ceremony of its        
inauguration took place on the #bhth of 
,july1 #ahdj1 when fifty coffins1 each  
containing twelve patriots1 were placed 
in the vaults for them underneath4 ,many
 persons descend to view the            
arrangements where the sarcophagi are   
stationed1 which are #ad feet in length1
 and the trouble is well repaid2 as also
 for ascending to the summit of the     
monument1 but the staircase is not      
considered to be as solid and secure as 
could be wished4  ,at ,no4 #ch1 ,rue de 
,charenton1 will be found the ,hopital  
,royal des ,quinze ,vingts1 devoted to  
the reception of the blind4 ,this       
establishment was originally founded by 

,st4 ,louis1 at the corner of the ,rue  
,st4 ,nicaise1 in the ,rue ,st4 ,honore1
 and ultimately removed to the present  
building4 ,there are as many as #cjj    
families living in this ,hospital1 as   
the blind are suffered to bring with    
them their wives and children1 and      
encouraged to marry1 if single2 there   
are besides #fjj out-door pensioners4   
,there is a chapel attached to the      
institution1 which was built in #agja1  
but possesses no particular interest4   
,at ,no4 #abh1 ,rue ,faubourg ,st4      
,antoine1 is a building founded in #affj
 by ,m4 ,aligre and his lady1 for       
orphans1 but the children having been   
sent to another establishment1 it is    
intended to be formed into a ,hospice   
for #djj old men4 ,just by1 is the      
,marche ,beauveau1 built in #agii1 and  
is a sort of rag fair1 well appropriated
 to the neighbourhood in which it       
stands4 ,at no #bjf1 ,rue ,faubourg ,st4
 ,antoine1 is the ,hopital ,st4         
,antoine1 formerly the ,abbey of ,st4   

,antoine2 the present building was      
erected in #aggj1 the number of beds is 
#bgj1 it is appropriated for the        
reception of the sick in general1 and   
may be visited by strangers upon any    
day4 ,some little distance to the north1
 in the ,rue ,st4 ,bernard1 is the      
,church of ,st4 ,marguerite1 erected in 
#afbe2 it has no other attractions than 
that of its pictures1 which are numerous
 and some of them beautiful1 and would  
well repay the visiter for turning out  
of his way to view them1 they are       
principally of the old ,french school1  
but there are no records to state how   
they ever came there4 ,a few streets to 
the south-west1 lead to the ,rue de     
,reuilly1 where some barracks will be   
found in a large pile of buildings1     
established by ,colbert1 for the ,royal 
,glass ,manufactory of ,mirrors 7removed
 to #cac1 ,rue ,st4 ,denis72 a little   
further on1 at the south-eastern corner 
of the ,rue ,faubourg ,st4 ,antoine and 
that of ,picpus1 is a great market for  

forage1 and at ,no4 #h in the latter    
street1 is the ,maison d',enghien1      
founded by the mother of the unfortunate
 ,duke of that name1 the ,duchess of    
,bourbon1 in #ahai1 and now supported by
 ,madame ,adelaide d',orleans2 it       
contains fifty beds1 of which eighteen  
are for women1 and the utmost           
cleanliness and order prevail4  ,at ,no4
 #ah is the ,hopital ,militaire de      
,picpus4 ,somewhat farther on1 at ,no4  
#af1 was once a ,convent of the ,order  
of ,st4 ,augustin1 now a                
boarding-school1 but the chapel still   
remains2 attached to it is a cemetery1  
where rest the remains of some of the   
noblest families of ,france1 as de      
,grammont1 de ,montaigu1 de ,noailles1  
and that purest and most perfect of     
private and public characters1          
,lafayette1 in a spot hardly known1 in a
 quiet corner1 beneath a very simple    
tomb1 beside his wife1 and in the midst 
of his relations4 ,we shall now return  
westward1 and view the ,barriere du     

,trone1 which is still unfinished1 but  
consisting of two noble lofty columns2  
very conspicuous from their height1 with
 a fine open circular space1 on which   
festivals are celebrated on public days1
 and plans are now pursuing for         
finishing and embellishing this spot4 ,a
 pleasant walk along the ,boulevards    
will bring us to the celebrated cemetery
 of ,pere-,la-,chaise1 on which there   
has been so much written by tourists1   
poets1 and even novelists2 thus ,i fear 
all ,i can state upon the subject will  
appear but tame1 after such choice      
spirits have favoured the public with   
their inspirations on so interesting a  
retreat1 ,i shall1 therefore1 only      
attempt to give a few matter of fact    
indications4  ,it consists of a large   
tract of ground on the slope of a hill1 
was celebrated for the beauty of its    
situation in the fourteenth century1 and
 under ,louis the ,,xiv as the abode of 
,pere-,la-,chaise1 having for #aej years
 been the favourite country house of the

 ,jesuits1 and at present the favourite 
burying place of the ,parisians4 ,in the
 #adth century a house was erected on   
the spot by a rich grocer1 named        
,regnault1 and was by the people named  
,la ,folie ,regnault2 after belonging to
 different parties1 it was purchased for
 #afj1jjj francs1 for its present       
purpose4 ,its extent is nearly #ajj     
acres2 all that trees1 shrubs1 plants1  
and flowers can avail towards           
embellishing a spot1 has been effected2 
the sculptor's hand has also been       
contributed in a most eminent degree1   
and fancy seems to have exhausted her   
caprices in conceptions of forms and    
fashions with regard to the monuments   
here assembled1 and some are as highly  
picturesque as can be well imagined2    
others are grand and imposing1 whilst a 
few there are1 whose simplicity render  
them the most interesting1 so much is   
there in association that perhaps none  
is more touching than that of ,abelard  
and ,heloise2 it is formed of stones    

gathered from the ruins of the ,abbey of
 ,paraclete1 founded by ,abelard1 of    
which ,heloise was the first abbess4    
,amongst the number of monuments here   
assembled1 there will be found those    
whose names have lived and will live in 
history3 marshals1 admirals1 generals1  
authors1 travellers1 senators1 and      
celebrated characters of all nations1 in
 fact what with the extreme beauty of   
the scene1 the splendid view that       
expands before one1 and the tone of     
reflexions that are engendered by the   
many affecting appeals there are to the 
heart1 upon the different monuments1 ,i 
know of no spot that one can visit1     
calculated to excite deeper impressions4
 ,we have imitated near ,london the same
 description of cemetery1 but they will 
be long before they can arrive at the   
same beauty2 it has been observed1 that 
,pere-,la-,chaise is not kept in such   
nice order as those in ,england1 and the
 remark is just1 but ,i am not quite    
sure but that ,i prefer the degree of   

wildness which there is in the former1  
and although it may not be so neat and  
trim as the latter1 yet on the whole    
there is infinitely more of the sublime1
 aided no doubt from the extreme beauty 
of the position1 and the greater number 
of splendid monuments1 than an infant   
establishment can be expected to        
possess4  ,on quitting this delightful  
spot1 we must pass by the ,prison de la 
,roquette1 destined for the reception of
 prisoners condemned to the galleys or  
to death2 the excellent system that is  
here followed with regard to the        
airiness1 cleanliness1 and strict order1
 is such that it is styled the model    
prison2 #cah is the number of prisoners 
that it can contain4 ,just opposite to  
it is the ,prison pour les jeunes       
,detenus1 or for juvenile offenders1 and
 is a most extraordinary establishment2 
its exterior has the air of a baronial  
castle1 and the interior is so arranged 
that it might answer the purpose of an  
hospital1 as well as that of correction2

 it has circular turrets at the angles1 
and the central building is isolated    
from the others1 and only approachable  
by iron bridges2 the whole of the upper 
part of the building is a chapel1 so    
contrived1 that when the prisoners enter
 it from the different divisions1       
although they are all together1 they can
 only see the individuals composing     
their own section1 and the pulpit and   
altar2 the prisoners are arranged in the
 different wings1 according to their    
ages1 and the degree of morality2 there 
are about #ejj1 and the different       
regulations are so meritorious1 and the 
plan of the building so curious and     
ingenious1 that the stranger will derive
 much pleasure from visiting this       
singular establishment4 ,just by1 is the
 ,abattoir de ,popincourt1 or de        
,menilmontant1 which is considered to be
 the largest and finest of all the five 
immense slaughter-houses round ,paris1  
and for those who are curious of        
regarding such buildings1 this should be

 the one they ought to visit4 ,at a few 
steps from the ,abattoir1 in the ,rue   
,popincourt1 is the church of ,st4      
,ambroise1 which was built for a convent
 of nuns called the ,annonciades in     
#afci2 some tolerable pictures are the  
only attractions it possesses for a     
stranger2 a few doors from it is a large
 barrack1 and an ornamented ,fountain4  
,we must now descend the ,rue du        
,chemin-,vert1 until we come to the     
,canal ,st4 ,martin1 and just pause a   
minute and notice its neat quays1 and   
the good order in which its locks are   
kept1 and all arrangements connected    
with it1 and then proceed to the        
,boulevards3 a short street1 called ,rue
 de la ,mule1 will take us into the     
,place ,royale1 which stands upon the   
site of the celebrated ,palais de       
,tournelle1 the court and offices of    
which extended to the ,rue ,st4         
,antoine1 and over several of the       
neighbouring streets1 but was pulled    
down by order of ,catherine de ,medicis 

in #aefe1 on account of her husband     
,henry ,,ii having been killed in one of
 the courts in a tournament4  ,the      
,place ,royale1 as it now stands1 was   
built in #afjd1 under ,henri ,,iv 7vide 
page #ib71 it is now inhabited by       
persons of small incomes who like to    
have spacious and lofty apartments      
without incurring the expence of such2  
in the more fashionable quarters1 the   
arcades all round the square1 the       
fountains1 the trees1 and the handsome  
railing1 give it a very fine though     
curious appearance1 and the houses have 
a most venerable aspect4 ,we will now   
leave the ,place ,royale by the southern
 gateway1 and enter the ,rue ,st4       
,antoine1 and nearly opposite to ,no4   
#adc1 is the ,hotel de ,sully2 being the
 work of the celebrated architect       
,ducerceau1 and the residence of the    
noble character whose name it bears4 ,it
 is well preserved1 and its court is    
richly adorned with sculpture4 ,at ,no4 
#abj1 in the same street1 is the        

,college de ,charlemagne1 formerly a    
college of the ,jesuits1 founded in     
#aehb1 the buildings are only remarkable
 for their extent4 ,the ,passage        
,charlemagne1 ,no4 #ajb1 leads through  
the court of the ,hotel de ,jassau1 or  
d',aguesseau1 #bb1 ,rue des ,pretres    
,st4 ,paul1 said to be the site of a    
palace1 and a turret of the time of     
,francis ,i still remains at the corner 
of the court1 as also some ornaments and
 figures4 ,at the corner of the ,rue    
,st4 ,paul1 and the ,rue des ,lions1 is 
a small square turret of the time of    
,henri ,,iv1 and a little eastward1 part
 of the church of ,st4 ,paul embodied in
 the house1 ,no4 #bi1 ,rue ,st4 ,paul4  
,by the side of the ,college of         
,charlemagne is the church of ,st4 ,paul
 and ,st4 ,louis1 it was began in #afbg1
 and finished in #afda1 and within it   
,cardinal ,richelieu performed the first
 mass in the presence of ,louis ,,xiii  
and his court4 ,the noble front rising  
from a flight of steps1 is adorned with 

three ranges of corinthian and composite
 columns1 and the interior is decorated 
with ornaments even to profusion2 a fine
 dome with figures of the ,evangelists  
and four kings of ,france give it       
altogether a very handsome appearance4  
,opposite the ,college of ,charlemagne1 
is the ,fontaine de ,birague2 consisting
 of a pentagonal tower1 with a dome and 
lantern4 ,above a pediment supported by 
doric pilasters is an attic with a      
naiad4 ,at the corner of the ,rue       
,culture ,ste4 ,catherine1 is the ,hotel
 de ,carnavalet1 where resided ,madame  
de ,sevigne and her daughter1 a fine    
mansion of the #afth century1 having    
been erected in #aedd2 most of the      
sculpture is from the chisel of the     
celebrated ,jean ,goujon1 and is of a   
most interesting description2 the       
cabinet in which the letters of that    
highly gifted woman were written is     
still shown1 also a marble table upon   
which she and her daughter used to dine 
under the sycamores in the garden1 two  

of which remain4 ,m4 ,viardot occupies  
this ,hotel1 and with pleasure shows it 
to strangers2 he keeps an academy and   
has written a history of the edifice1   
which may be had of the porter4 ,it was 
at the corner of this street that the   
,constable de ,clisson was assailed and 
severely wounded by #bj ruffians1 headed
 by ,pierre de ,graon1 ,chamberlain of  
the ,duke of ,orleans1 who was murdered 
by the ,duke of ,burgundy4  ,in the ,rue
 du ,roi de ,sicile is the prison of ,la
 ,force1 containing #gjj prisoners1 and 
excellent regulations1 but another1 in a
 more retired part of ,paris1 is soon to
 be constructed4 ,this building was     
formerly the ,hotel of the ,duc de la   
,force1 hence the origin of its name4   
,in the ,rue ,pavee1 which is on one    
side of the prison1 will be found1 at   
,no4 #c1 the ,hotel de la ,houze1 and in
 the same street stood the ,hotels de   
,gaucher1 de ,chatillon1 and            
d',herbouville1 or de ,savoisi4 ,we will
 now go a little out of our way to see  

the fine long and broad street of ,st4  
,louis1 which we shall soon reach by    
keeping straight on along the ,rue      
,payenne1 and then turning to the east  
by the ,rue ,parc ,royal1 shall proceed 
to one of the ornaments of the ,rue ,st4
 ,louis1 the ,church of ,st4 ,denis du  
,sacrement2 it is quite modern1 but is  
conceived according to good taste2 the  
order is ionic1 which is consistently   
preserved both throughout the exterior  
and the interior1 much chasteness of    
design1 in fact has been observed in the
 construction of this simple but elegant
 edifice4 ,the ,fountain of ,st4 ,louis 
is worthy of attention en passant4      
,formerly this street was filled with   
nobility1 as even so late as the        
beginning of the reign of ,louis ,,xv it
 was rather a fashionable quarter1 at   
present it is the cheapest in ,paris4   
,we must now retrace our steps1 which   
will bring us to the ,rue ,francs       
,bourgeois2 ,no4 #be is an hotel of the 
time of ,henri ,,iv1 ,no4 #g1 ,hotel de 

,jeanne d',abret1 of ,louis ,,xv's days1
 and ,no4 #ab1 the former residence of  
the ,dukes de ,roquelaure1 and at the   
corner will be observed a little turret 
belonging to a house1 one side of which 
is in the ,vieille ,rue du ,temple2     
there is some curious work upon it1 and 
it is supposed to have been standing at 
the time the ,duke of ,orleans was      
murdered by order of the ,duke of       
,burgundy1 which was just about this    
spot1 in #adjg4 ,at ,no4 #ea1 ,rue      
,franc ,bourgeois1 is the ,hotel de     
,hollande1 so called from its having    
belonged to the ,dutch ,ambassador1 in  
the reign of ,louis ,,xiv2 amongst the  
sculpture is perceived the date of      
#affj2 this handsome hotel was once the 
residence of ,beaumarchais4 ,at the     
corner of the ,rue ,pavee is the ,hotel 
de ,lamoignon1 one of the handsomest    
mansions of the ancient nobility4 ,it is
 of the sixteenth century1 some of the  
carved work is most curious1 and merits 
attentive examination2 a picturesque    

turret and balcony must excite the      
attention of every observer4 ,a few     
steps further is the large central      
establishment of the ,mont de ,piete1   
,no4 #ah1 ,rue des ,blancs ,manteaux1   
lending money on pledges1 much the same 
as our pawnbrokers1 only on more        
advantageous terms for the borrowers4   
,in the same street is ,notre ,dame des 
,blancs ,manteaux1 once the chapel of a 
religious house1 so called from their   
dress consisting of white garments2     
there was formerly a monastery here1 of 
which there may be discovered some      
remains to the east1 and evidently in   
the left wing of a house at ,no4 #be2   
the chapel remaining has a plain        
exterior1 but the corinthian style of   
the interior is handsome1 and worth     
attention2 there is also a very admired 
picture of the ,burial of ,st4          
,petronilla1 which is eighteen feet by  
eight1 it is of the school of ,guercini1
 but it is not known by what means it   
came to be placed in this church4       

,facing this street is the ,market des  
,blancs ,manteaux4  ,at the corner of   
the ,rue ,vieille du ,temple1 and that  
of the ,rue de ,quatre ,fils1 is the    
,palais ,cardinal1 now the ,imprimerie  
,royale2 it was erected in #agab1 and is
 named after its owner1 the ,cardinal de
 ,rohan1 whose intriguing spirit so much
 involved ,marie ,antoinette2 in this   
hotel the scenes occurred concerning    
that extraordinary affair2 the front of 
the building is quite plain1 towards the
 garden it is ornamented by columns1 and
 as a mansion1 is one of the largest in 
,paris4 ,it is now occupied as the      
,royal ,printing ,establishment1 and it 
is impossible to surpass the order and  
regularity with which it is conducted2  
#gej men1 women1 and children1 are      
employed in it4 ,it is considered to    
possess the richest collection in the   
world of matrices and fonts of types1   
having them in every written language1  
and when ,pope ,pius ,,vii visited the  
establishment1 he was presented the     

,lord's ,prayer in #aej languages4 ,a   
library with specimens of typography1   
executed on the premises1 is an object  
of the highest gratification to every   
visiter1 even if they be not            
connaisseurs in the art4 ,for admission 
to this establishment1 application must 
be made a few days beforehand to ,m4 le 
,directeur de l',imprimerie ,royale1 who
 appoints a fixed hour on ,thursdays4   
,almost facing one part of the          
,imprimerie ,royale1 in the ,rue        
d',orleans1 is the ,church of ,st4      
,francois d',assise4 ,neither the       
exterior nor the interior possess any   
striking beauty2 it was founded and     
erected in #afbc4 ,it contains some very
 good paintings1 and the kneeling figure
 of the saint of the church in his      
monastic dress2 the hands and head are  
of white marble1 and it is supposed to  
be ,egyptian2 one of ,st4 ,denis is     
opposite to it4  ,adjoining to the      
,imprimerie ,royale1 is the ,hotel des  
,archives du ,royaume1 which is entered 

by the ,rue du ,chaume1 ,no4 #ab4 ,it   
was formerly a palace of the ,prince de 
,soubise and the family of the ,rohans4 
,the south and western part of the      
edifice is of the #aeth century1 the    
turret is probably what belonged to the 
gatehouse4 ,the decorations of the      
apartments are extremely rich with gilt 
cornices and paintings1 some of them    
possessing great merit4 ,in the petits  
appartements is a boudoir which belonged
 to the ,duchess de ,guise1 with a      
window looking into the ,rue du ,chaume1
 from whence it is asserted that her    
lover precipitated himself at the       
approach of the ,duke4 ,a new building  
has been added1 the first stone having  
been laid in #ahch1 which has cost a    
million of francs4 ,under ,napoleon the 
whole edifice was appropriated to the   
preservation of the national archives4  
,amongst them are documents of diplomas 
granted to different monastic           
institutions1 by ,childebert1 ,dagobert1
 ,clothaire and ,clovis ,,ii4 ,the      

collections of the different acts1      
deeds1 charters1 administrative1        
domanial1 historical1 judicial1         
legislative1 etc41 fill #fj1jjj         
portfolios4 ,there is besides a library 
of #ad1jjj volumes1 amongst which are   
the ,records ,commission of ,england1   
presented by the ,british ,government4  
,there are also in an iron chest1 the   
golden bulls and papal decrees1 most of 
the keys of the ,bastille1 the wills of 
,marie ,antoinette and ,louis ,,xvi1    
with his journal1 autograph letters of  
,napoleon1 one written by him to ,louis 
,,xviii1 with a variety of other most   
interesting objects4 ,for admission     
apply 7post paid7 to ,m4 le ,garde      
,general des ,archives du ,royaume1 ,no4
 #ab1 ,rue du ,chaume4  ,the ,fontaine  
de la ,naiade in the same street1 has a 
clever bas-relief by ,mignot4 ,by the   
,rue des ,vieilles-,haudriettes we pass 
into the ,rue ,ste-,avoye2 ,no4 #fc is  
worth notice1 several of the houses here
 having been the hotels of nobility4    

,no4 #eg is the ,hotel ,st4 ,aignan1    
built by ,le ,muet2 on its site stood   
the ,hotel de ,montmorency1 it is an    
extensive noble building1 but has been  
spoiled by having had two stories added4
 ,henry ,,ii often resided in it when it
 was called ,hotel de ,montmorency4     
,taking the ,rue ,ste4 ,croix de la     
,bretonnerie1 we shall find that the    
first turning in it is the ,rue des     
,billettes1 where stand the ,lutheran   
,church2 it was built in #agde1 and     
belonged to the ,carmelite ,friars4 ,in 
#ahjh1 it was bought by the city of     
,paris1 and given about four years after
 to the ,protestants of the ,augsburgh  
confession4 ,it is a plain neat         
building4 ,the ,duchess of ,orleans     
attends service here when in ,paris1    
which is in ,german at #b and in ,french
 at #ab4 ,from hence we cross the ,rue  
de la ,verrerie1 and proceeding by the  
,rue des ,mauvais ,garcons1 we arrive at
 the ,church ,st4 ,gervais2 an          
inscription under the first arch of the 

northern aisle of the choir1 states the 
church to have been dedicated in #adbj1 
although other parts of the building    
would indicate a more recent            
construction1 but with all its          
incongruities1 from its having been     
built at various periods1 it excites a  
deep interest2 the light gleaming       
through the painted glass gives a rich  
though rather sombre effect1 the windows
 behind the altar have a most imposing  
appearance4 ,the western front was began
 in #afaf1 ,louis the ,,xiii laying the 
first stone1 and is not equal to other  
parts of the building2 some of the      
chapels of this church are particularly 
fine4 ,amongst the pictures1 of which   
there are many very good1 is one by     
,albert ,durer1 with the date upon it of
 #aejj4 ,scarron1 the husband of ,mme4  
de ,maintenon1 lies buried here1 as also
 the celebrated painter ,philippe de    
,champagne1 and one of his performances 
is amongst the pictures which decorate  
the church1 being that of ,jesus with   

,martha and ,mary in the chapel of ,ste4
 ,genevieve2 there are several other    
objects in this noble edifice so        
interesting1 that no person who visits  
,paris should omit seeing it4 ,we may   
now take the ,rue de la ,tixeranderie   
where at the corner of the ,rue du ,coq 
is a house and turret of the #aeth and  
#afth century1 most probably the former1
 according to the statements of ,m4     
,dulaure4  ,illustration3 ,the ,hotel de
 ,ville4 ,published by ,f4 ,sinnett1    
#ae4 ,grande rue ,verte4  ,we now arrive
 at the ,hotel-de-,ville1 ,place de     
,greve2 the first stone of this         
interesting and venerable pile was laid 
in #aecc1 but was not completely        
finished until #afjf1 in the reign of   
,henry ,,iv4 ,the style of architecture 
is that which the ,french call ,la      
,renaissance des ,arts1 it is rich1     
rather heavy1 and has an antique        
appearance2 it is exactly according to  
the taste which prevailed in the #afth  
century1 and was brought into vogue by  

,italian architects4 ,there is a great  
deal of ornament about the building1 and
 a profusion of statues1 still they     
appear consistent with the style of the 
building1 and have not the effect of    
redundancy4 ,over the doorway is a      
bronze equestrian statue of ,henry ,,iv4
 ,along the principal front is a flight 
of steps1 and an arcade and portico with
 ionic columns1 between the arches      
facing the entrance is a fine bronze    
statue of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the ,grande    
,salle or ,salle du ,trone is a most    
splendid apartment1 and has been the    
scene of many most important events1    
being the room where ,robespierre held  
his council and in which he attempted to
 destroy himself1 and from which ,louis 
,,xvi addressed the people with the cap 
of liberty upon his head4 ,most         
extensive additions and alterations have
 recently been effected1 the original   
facade having been doubled in length and
 the whole body of the building nearly  
quadrupled1 forming an immense          

quadrangle1 preserving the same style of
 architecture as the original4 ,the     
expense of these additions and          
improvements is estimated at four       
millions of francs1 and they have been  
effected with a rapidity that is quite  
surprising1 notwithstanding the number  
of public buildings in progress at the  
same time in ,paris4 ,the multitude of  
apartments1 the richness of their       
decorations1 and tasteful manner with   
which they are arranged1 are only to be 
equalled by the careful attention which 
has been devoted to their distribution  
with regard to convenience and comfort4 
,as ,louis-,philippe justly observed    
when he recently inspected the exterior 
of the whole building1 that it should no
 longer be called the ,hotel-de-,ville1 
but for the future the ,city ,palace1 as
 the splendour within it is not exceeded
 in any of the other palaces in ,paris4 
,the library belonging to this          
establishment consists of #ee1jjj       
volumes1 and is very rich in            

manuscripts4  ,the ,place de ,greve has 
been the scene of more sanguinary       
tragedies than perhaps any spot of the  
same extent in ,europe1 and could the   
stones but speak1 each could tell a tale
 of blood4 ,in the north-west corner is 
still to be seen a relic of the middle  
ages1 in a curious turret attached to   
one of the houses4 ,taking the ,rue     
,poterie1 we shall get into the ,rue de 
la ,verrerie1 and proceeding westward   
will bring us to the church ,st4 ,merri1
 but to view it properly must enter the 
,rue ,st4 ,martin1 and stand facing it1 
and well examine its curious and        
beautiful sculpture 7vide page #hh71    
presenting all the minute and singular  
characteristics of the period of its    
construction 7#aebj72 the carve-work is 
quite like lace1 so minutely elaborate4 
,the interior possesses several         
interesting objects in architecture1 and
 some inconsistencies1 the pulpit is    
extremely curious1 and its effect is    
very striking4 ,there are also some     

pictures above mediocrity1 principally  
by ,french artists of the past school4  
,the tower of this church is famed from 
the desperate resistance which was made 
from it by a few young men in #ahcb     
against the king's troops4  ,we must    
follow the course of the ,rue ,st4      
,martin1 and observe ,no4 #aea1 a fine  
hotel of the time of ,louis ,,xiv1 with 
a front adorned by ionic pilasters1 and 
handsome entrance3 a few paces farther  
on the opposite side1 is the church of  
,st4 ,nicolas-des-,champs1 the west     
front was erected in #adbj1 as it now   
stands1 and in #aegf1 the choir and     
chapels behind were constructed1 and the
 tower probably at that period or since4
 ,a church has existed on the same spot 
ever since #aaai1 then standing as the  
name indicates in the fields1 but it is 
doubtful whether any part of the old    
fabric remains4 ,there is something fine
 and imposing in the interior1 with     
regard to its general effect1 although  
there is not any thing particularly     

remarkable in its architecture2 the     
pictures it contains form its most      
striking feature1 some of which are very
 good2 many celebrated persons lie      
buried here1 and amongst the rest       
,mademoiselle ,scuderi4  ,a few steps to
 the north is the ,conservatoire des    
,arts et ,metiers4 ,this edifice was    
formerly the ancient abbey of ,st4      
,martin-des-,champs1 the chapel and     
refectory of which were built about the 
year #abdj1 and are still standing1 the 
latter is in excellent preservation1 and
 is one of the most curious and perfect 
specimens of the architecture of the    
period at which it was built2 at the    
eastern end of the chapel are the       
remains of a building still more        
ancient1 which is plain1 and has not any
 thing striking in its appearance4 ,in  
this establishment is to be found every 
description of machinery1 and in fact   
all that ever can be imagined relative  
to the promotion of industry2 scarcely  
any invention has been made public1 of  

which there is not a model to be found  
in this curious museum1 with specimens  
of all the various mechanical           
contrivances which ,europe possesses4   
,the celebrated ,vaucanson1 who was one 
of the greatest contributors to this    
institution1 having quarrelled with the 
people of ,lyons1 vowed he would teach  
an ass to do what they did1 and he      
absolutely invented machinery of such a 
description that it could be worked by  
that humble animal1 and a piece of      
drugget with flowers is shown1 which was
 produced by the united ingenuity of ,m4
 ,vaucanson and the patient labour of   
the ass4 ,models of potteries1          
breweries1 smelting-houses1 steam       
engines1 railways1 etc4 are amongst the 
number of interesting objects1 and the  
names of our countrymen appear          
prominent1 as ,watt1 ,maudsley1 ,barker1
 ,atkins1 etc41 who have benefited the  
world by their inventions4 ,on ascending
 a very handsome staircase1 the visiter 
finds a range of apartments1 with a     

wonderful collection of models of       
pulpits 7which in ,france are generally 
most ornamental objects71 mills1 turning
 machines1 engineering and surveying    
instruments1 with an immense number of  
others far too many to recapitulate1 and
 an assortment of coloured papers       
stamped1 and some exquisitely cut out2  
fans of mother of pearl of most         
elaborate workmanship1 with other       
objects equally ingenious and beautiful4
 ,this venerable abbey appears to       
advantage from the garden1 as a plain   
substantial old fashioned building1 part
 of which is used as the ,mairie of the 
#fth ,arrondissement1 and lecture rooms 
for the professors of the institution4  
,a short distance from it1 is the       
,fontaine ,st4 ,martin1 which is erected
 against a tower formerly belonging to  
the old abbey with which it was         
connected by a wall with a series of    
towers1 but there is now no other       
remaining4 ,close by1 is the market ,st4
 ,martin1 with #djj stalls1 formerly the

 abbey gardens2 there is a handsome     
fountain in the middle1 of bronze1 with 
three allegorical figures of the genii  
of hunting1 fishing1 and agriculture1   
there are also smaller fountains1 and at
 the back of the market a little        
promenade planted with trees4 ,from     
hence we pass eastward by the ,rue      
,royale1 and turning to the left1 we    
shall see the ,rue des ,fontaines1 in   
which we shall find the ,maison d',arret
 des ,madelonnettes1 formerly belonging 
to nuns called the ,filles de la        
,madeleine1 now appropriated to the     
temporary detention of #ejj men and     
boys4 ,a few steps farther1 and the     
,temple appears before us in the ,rue du
 ,temple1 now a nunnery occupied by the 
,dames ,benedictines de l',adoration    
perpetuelle du ,st4 ,sacrement4 ,it     
formerly belonged to the society of     
,knights ,templars1 and afterwards to   
those of ,malta2 the palace of the grand
 prior is all that now remains of the   
ancient building1 which was erected by  

,jacques de ,souvre in #aeff4 ,the front
 has a portico formed of doric colums1  
and on each side a fountain with a      
colossal statue 7by ,pujol71 upon a     
pedestal4 ,the front towards the court  
is adorned with eight coupled ionic     
columns1 and above are figures of       
,justice1 ,prudence1 ,hope and          
,abundance4 ,a new chapel was built in  
#ahbc1 which belongs to the convent1 it 
is of the ionic order throughout1 and   
though not particularly striking1 is not
 inelegant1 and remarkably neat2 it may 
be seen on application at the porter's  
lodge1 but from the nunnery strangers   
are most rigidly excluded4 ,there was a 
tower belonging to this building1 where 
the unfortunate ,louis ,,xvi was        
confined1 as also ,sir ,sydney ,smith   
and ,toussaint-,louverture1 but it was  
demolished in #ahje4 ,behind the ,temple
 is an immense space of ground called   
the ,marche du ,vieux ,linge1 containing
 #ahhh shops or stalls1 where old       
clothes1 linen1 shoes1 tools1 hats1 old 

iron1 and a variety of other articles   
are sold at low prices1 and behind is an
 oval-formed arcaded building1 with     
shops erected on the site of the ancient
 ,temple and its dependencies4  ,the    
,fontaine ,vendome1 named after the     
,chevalier de ,vendome1 grand prior of  
,france1 was attached to the old wall of
 the ,temple1 it has a cupola and a     
military trophy4 ,at ,no4 #ajg1 ,rue du 
,temple1 is the church of ,ste4         
,elisabeth 7vide page #if71 which has   
had so many modern repairs and          
additions1 that there is not much left  
of the first construction1 but except   
the front it has little in it to attract
 notice2 there are a few pictures and   
some painted windows by an ,englishman  
named ,white4 ,in proceeding northward  
to the ,boulevards1 we will just take a 
look at the ,rue ,vendome1 as it is full
 of hotels1 amongst which are some of   
the finest in ,paris2 on reaching the   
,boulevard du ,temple1 ,no4 #ej may be  
remarked1 it is always pointed out to   

strangers as the house from whence      
,fieschi discharged in #ahce his        
infernal machine 7which is now to be    
seen at ,madame ,tussaud's exhibition in
 ,baker ,street1 ,london74 ,by the means
 of that diabolical affair1 ,marshal    
,mortier1 ,colonel ,rieussec1 and many  
others1 were killed and wounded1 but the
 ,king1 at whom it was aimed1           
fortunately escaped4 ,we shall now      
proceed by the ,rue du ,faubourg du     
,temple2 at ,no4 #fh is a large barrack 
which has been formed for infantry1 but 
is a few steps out of the way1 and      
hardly worth looking after1 in an       
architectural point of view4 ,i should  
therefore advise turning to the left1 by
 the northern bank of the ,canal ,st4   
,martin1 and observing the ,grand       
,entrepot des ,sels1 from whence        
annually #i1jjj1jjj lbs4 of salt are    
distributed for the consumption of      
,paris4 ,opposite1 on the southern bank1
 is the ,entrepot de la ,compagnie des  
,douanes1 which was built in #ahcd by a 

joint stock company1 for receiving goods
 in bond1 consisting of a spacious area 
in which stand two large warehouses #bej
 feet in length1 with a court covered in
 between for stowage1 besides a number  
of sheds4 ,they are constructed on a    
most solid plan1 being built of stone   
with brick arches1 and the wood-work of 
oak enclosing pillars of iron4 ,it is   
altogether on a most extensive and      
commodious plan1 with such regulations  
as have rendered it highly serviceable  
to the purposes of commerce4 ,adjoining 
are the warehouses of the ,custom       
,house1 called the ,douanes de ,paris1  
the entrance is in the ,rue ,neuve      
,sanson1 the house of the ,director is  
attached1 and particularly neat2 the    
whole of the buildings1 although        
constructed upon a solid principle1 are 
light and handsome4  ,the first turning 
to the right1 brings us to the ,rue de  
l',hopital1 in which is the hospital of 
,st4 ,louis1 a most noble establishment 
founded by ,henry ,,iv1 in #afjg4 ,it   

contains #hjj beds1 and is justly       
celebrated for its excellent medicated  
and mineral baths4 ,there is a chapel   
attached to it1 of which the first stone
 was laid by ,henry ,,iv4 ,it was called
 after ,st4 ,louis1 from having been    
originally devoted to persons infected  
with the plague1 he having died of that 
disease at ,turin in #abgj4 ,at present 
it is appropriated to such as are       
afflicted with cutaneous complaints4 ,as
 we cross the canal1 we must notice the 
charcoal market1 close to which is the  
,hospital of ,incurables1 for men1 ,no4 
#cd1 ,rue des ,recollets1 established in
 #ahjb in the ancient convent of the    
,recollets4 ,the number of men admitted 
is #djj1 male children #gj4 ,those boys 
,who are capable1 are encouraged to     
learn different trades1 and at #bj years
 of age are sent to the ,bicetre4       
,strangers are admitted every day except
 ,sundays and festivals4 ,the church of 
,st4 ,laurent is facing1 in the ,place  
de la ,fidelite and ,rue du ,faubourg   

,st4 ,martin2 it was first built in     
#adbi1 enlarged in #aedc1 and in part   
rebuilt in #aeie1 and the porch and     
perhaps the lady chapel1 added in #afbb4
 ,a gridiron is the only object which   
attracts notice on the exterior1 and the
 interior offers little more2 the key   
stones of the vaulting ribs are deep    
pendent masses of stone1 carved into    
groups of figures1 fruit1 etc41 and in  
the vaulting there is some bold         
sculpture displayed in the northern     
aisle of the choir1 which is the most   
ancient part of the church4 ,the ,foire 
of ,st4 ,laurent merits being visited1  
it is a market which has been built by a
 company for the supply of this part of 
the capital4 ,the design is elegant1    
consisting of a parallelogram of two    
stories1 with covered galleries and a   
fountain in the middle of the court4    
,the whole is covered in by lateral     
windows1 and a roof of glass4 ,the      
street ,st4 ,laurent conducts           
immediately to the ,maison ,royale de   

,sante1 ,no4 #aab1 ,rue ,faubourg ,st4  
,denis1 an institution in which invalids
 are received2 persons who cannot afford
 the means of sustaining an expensive   
illness are admitted on paying from #c  
to #f francs a day1 advice1 medicine1   
board1 and if required1 surgical        
operations included4 ,it contains #age  
beds1 the utmost attention is paid to   
the comforts of the patients4           
,opposite1 at ,no4 #aag1 is ,st4        
,lazare1 formerly the ancient ,convent  
of the ,lazarists1 or ,priests of the   
,mission1 now a prison for female       
offenders4 ,it was once a place of much 
importance1 the remains of the kings and
 queens of ,france were carried to the  
convent of ,st4 ,lazare1 prior to being 
conveyed to ,st4 ,denis1 the coffin     
being placed between the two gates of   
the building on a tomb of state1 with   
all the prelates of the kingdom         
surrounding it1 chanting the service of 
the dead1 and sprinkling it with holy   
water4 ,it is now appropriated to the   

imprisonment of misguided women1 and    
every encouragement is afforded them to 
amend1 for which purpose they are       
allowed two-thirds of their earnings1   
and a variety of occupations are        
constantly going on4 ,children1 under   
sixteen years of age1 are kept by       
themselves2 in all there are mostly from
 #ijj to #ajjj persons confined in ,st4 
,lazare1 but the order1 cleanliness and 
apparent comfort is such as to give an  
air of happiness to the whole           
establishment1 and for the humane1 it is
 one of the most gratifying sights in   
,paris4 ,attached to this institution is
 the general bakehouse1 laundry1 and    
linen depot for all the prisons4 ,a     
chapel is in the midst of the building1 
and the women attend service every      
,sunday4 ,we will now return to the     
,boulevards1 and taking the ,rue de la  
,lune1 we shall there find the church of
 ,notre ,dame de ,bonne ,nouvelle3 the  
old building was destroyed during the   
wars of the ,league1 in #aeic1 but was  

rebuilt in #afbd2 of this second        
construction the tower alone is still   
standing1 the body of the present church
 having been erected in #ahbe1 it is a  
plain edifice of the doric order1 a     
fresco by ,pujol merits attention1 but  
is the only object throughout the       
edifice which can excite much interest4 
,we must now retrace a few steps1 and by
 the ,rue ,st4 ,claude turn into the    
,rue ,st4 ,denis1 and proceeding        
southwards observe the establishment of 
,les ,bains ,st4 ,sauveur1 at the corner
 of the street of that name1 from which 
a street communicates with the ,rue     
,thevenot1 and about here was the ,cour 
des ,miracles1 cited by ,dulaure1 and   
afterwards by ,victor ,hugo1 as the     
resort of thieves and beggars1 where    
five hundred families lived huddled     
together in the greatest state of filth 
that could be imagined2 it was not until
 the year #affg that they were partly   
dispersed4 ,the stranger must not forget
 the manufactory of mirrors1 ,no4 #cac1 

,rue ,st4 ,denis1 he will there find an 
immense plate glass warehouse2 the      
concern having been established since   
#afcd2 it is carried on to a great      
degree of perfection4 ,a ,frenchman     
named ,thevart first discovered the art 
of casting glass1 that of polishing it  
was invented by ,riviere1 and now       
glasses may be had at this establishment
 #aed inches by #ajd4 ,the largest table
 of iron for polishing glass was made a 
few months since1 weighing twenty-five  
tons4 ,at ,no4 #aba is the ,cour        
,batave1 so called from being erected by
 a company of ,dutch merchants1 in      
#agia2 it is disfigured now by shops1   
but had the original design been carried
 out1 instead of having been disturbed  
by the ,revolution1 it would have been  
one of the handsomest monuments of the  
capital4  ,a short distance northward1  
in the same street1 is the church of    
,st4 ,leu and ,st4 ,gilles2 on the spot 
a chapel was erected in #abcj1 and in a 
small tower to the west a date is       

inscribed of #abcj1 but it has been     
repaired several times since that       
period1 particularly in #acbj2 the nave1
 however1 is supposed to be of the      
thirteenth century1 and most likely of  
the date of the foundation1 but other   
parts of the building are evidently of a
 more recent epoch1 possibly of #acbj2  
judging from the style of the           
architecture4 ,amongst the pictures is  
one of ,st4 ,margaret1 ,queen of        
,scotland1 washing the feet of the poor2
 there are others which are well worthy 
attention1 as also a representation of  
the ,creation1 which is a very curious  
piece of carve-work4 ,as ,st4 ,leu had  
the credit of healing the sick1 the     
kings of ,france1 on their accession to 
the throne1 for nine days successively  
used to visit this church to implore the
 saint to grant them health4 ,we must   
now proceed to the southern extremity of
 the street1 and take the last turning  
to the left1 which is called the ,rue   
,st4 ,jacques de la ,boucherie1 and in  

groping about amongst some dirty        
streets1 we shall find the tower of the 
same name2 it is a remarkably curious   
object1 and it is much to be regretted  
that the church belonging to it no      
longer stands it was begun in #aejh2 and
 finished in #aebb1 it is #aef feet     
high1 and had formerly a spire thirty   
feet high2 the style of architecture is 
rich and very singular1 the gargouilles1
 or gutter spouts1 are of a tremendous  
size2 as it has been recently purchased 
by the ,municipality of ,paris from an  
individual1 there are hopes that this   
interesting monument will be fully      
repaired and restored4 ,around its base 
a market is established for linen and   
old clothes4 ,a little filthy street to 
the south will take us into the ,place  
du ,chatelet1 where we can breathe a    
little fresh air2 here stood the        
celebrated ,chatelet1 at once a court of
 justice and prison of olden time4 ,in  
the middle is a fountain1 from which    
rises a column representing a palm-tree1

 and upon it are inscribed the victories
 of ,napoleon4 ,amongst other           
allegorical decorations1 the statues of 
,justice1 ,strength1 ,prudence1 and     
,vigilance adorn the pedestal1 and      
joining hands encircle the column1 the  
whole surmounted by a statue of         
,victory4 ,at ,no4 #a1 upon the ,place1 
is the chamber of notaries1 where landed
 property and houses are sold by        
auction4  ,we must now return to the    
,rue ,st4 ,denis1 and follow it until we
 come to the ,rue de la ,ferronnerie1   
which is to the left1 into which we must
 proceed1 and shall find that the second
 turning to the left is the ,rue des    
,dechargeurs1 and at ,no4 #aa is an     
edifice of the seventeenth century1     
which is now the ,depot general des     
,bonneteries 7,hosiery7 de ,france4     
,returning a few steps northward1 brings
 us to the corner of the ,rue ,st4      
,honore1 and against ,no4 #c is a bust  
of ,henry ,,iv1 and a stone with a latin
 inscription1 indicating that it was    

exactly opposite that spot that he was  
stabbed by ,ravaillac4 ,the street was  
very narrow at that period1 and at the  
moment when the deed was perpetrated1   
the carriage of ,henri ,,iv was stopped 
by a number of carts which choked up the
 passage4 ,a little street nearly       
opposite1 takes into the ,marche des    
,innocents1 which occupies an immense   
space formerly the cemetry of the       
,innocents4 ,in the middle of the area  
is a fountain built by ,pierre ,lescot1 
in #aeea1 and is decidedly a most       
beautiful object1 which is not          
sufficiently noticed by strangers1 as it
 is surrounded by a crowded market and  
not at all hours easy of approach2 the  
court-yard of a palace would be a more  
appropriate situation for this elegant  
edifice1 and ,i particularly request my 
readers to pay it a visit4 ,around this 
fountain is certainly the largest and   
most frequented market in ,paris1 not   
only each description of vegetables1    
poultry1 and almost all kind of eatables

 are sold here1 but cloth1 a large      
building being purposely constructed for
 that object #djj feet in length2       
another division is for every           
description of herbs1 the northern side 
is devoted to potatoes and onions2 a    
triangular building a little farther1 is
 on purpose for butter1 eggs1 and       
cheese1 whilst another edifice is for   
fish4 ,at a short distance1 in the ,rue 
,mauconseil is the great hall for the   
sale of leather1 which was formerly the 
,hotel de ,bourgogne1 where the players 
used to perform scriptural pieces in the
 #aeth century4 ,to the west of the     
,marche des ,innocents is the curious   
street de la ,tonnellerie1 an open      
passage running1 through the ground     
floors of some of the houses1 inhabited 
mostly by dealers in rags1 cloth1 and   
old furniture2 in this street is the    
bread market1 where it is sold cheaper  
than at the bakers in ,paris4 ,at the   
south end of the street at ,no4 #c1 is  
the site of the house where ,moliere was

 born1 which was held by his father who 
was an upholsterer and valet de chambre 
to ,louis ,,xii2 against the house is a 
bust of the author1 with an inscription 
specifying the event4  ,following the   
,rue de la ,tonnellerie brings us       
opposite ,st4 ,eustache1 which after    
,notre-,dame is the largest church in   
,paris1 built on the site of a chapel of
 ,st4 ,agnes4 ,the present edifice was  
begun in #aecb1 but not supposed to have
 been finished until #afdb4 ,the portico
 is more recent1 being after a design by
 ,mansart de ,jouy1 and erected in      
#aged3 combining altogether a most      
incongruous mixture of styles and orders
 of architecture1 originally commenced  
with the design that it should be a sort
 of mixed gothic1 of which the southern 
door and front bear evidence1 whilst the
 western portico has doric and ionic    
columns1 and at the northern end are    
corinthian pillars1 notwithstanding it  
is a bold imposing structure1 and the   
interior has the appearance of a fine   

abbey1 and is a monument which every    
stranger ought to visit4 ,it is a pity  
that a number of little square knobs    
have been suffered to remain sticking   
out from different parts of the shafts  
of the columns of this church2 it is    
strange that the ,french could not be   
made to understand that the beauty of a 
pillar in a great degree consists in a  
bold broad mass1 which should never be  
cut up into littlenesses1 by rings or   
any obtruding projections4 ,in this     
church lie buried several celebrated    
persons1 amongst the rest the great     
,colbert1 which is indicated by a very  
handsome sarcophagus1 sculptured by     
,coysevose4 ,the sacred music here is   
sometimes most exquisitely delightful1  
the organ being particularly fine4      
,facing the southern front is the       
,marche des ,prouvaires1 a sort of      
appendage to the ,marche des ,innocents1
 and opposite the east side of the      
church1 is the ,fontaine de ,tantale1 at
 the point formed by the two streets1   

,montmartre and ,montorgueil1 which will
 repay the observer for a few minutes   
devoted to its examination4 ,the west   
front of the church faces the ,rue      
,oblin1 which we will take1 as it leads 
to the ,halle au ,ble1 a fine extensive 
circular building1 with a noble dome1 it
 is built on the site of the ,hotel de  
,soissons1 erected for ,catherine de    
,medicis1 in #aegb1 which in #agdh was  
demolished1 and the present ,halle      
constructed in #agfc2 the roof has a    
round skylight1 #ca feet in diameter1   
and from the system adopted in its      
formation1 it is considered by          
connaiseurs a chef d'oeuvre in the art  
of building4 ,it is indeed altogether so
 curious1 and so commodious a building  
for the purpose for which it is         
designed1 that the visiter must be      
highly gratified in viewing it3 there is
 besides another attraction1 which is on
 the southern side1 one of the immense  
doric columns which once composed the   
noble ,hotel de ,soissons2 it was       

erected for the purposes of astrology1  
and contains a winding staircase1 and is
 ornamented with emblematic symbols1 of 
the widowhood of ,catherine de ,medicis1
 as broken mirrors1 ,c4 and ,h4         
interlaced1 etc4 ,an ingenious sundial  
is placed on its shaft1 and a fountain  
in its pedestal4  ,by taking the ,rue   
,sartine we shall arrive at the ,rue    
,jean-,jacques ,rousseau1 and there find
 the ,hotel des ,postes or ,general     
,post ,office2 it was formerly an ,hotel
 belonging to the ,duke d',epernon1 and 
was afterwards inhabited by different   
proprietors1 until #ageg1 when it was   
purchased by government1 for its present
 purposes4 ,it is an extensive building 
but badly situated amongst narrow       
streets1 many additions have been made  
since it has become government property4
 ,taking the ,rue ,verdelet1 the street 
which runs along the north side of the  
building1 and proceeding westward1 we   
come to the ,place des ,victoires1 which
 was built in #afhe2 in the centre is a 

very fine equestrian statue of ,louis   
,,xiv1 in bronze1 which although        
weighing #af1jjj lbs is entirely        
sustained by the hinder legs and the    
tail4 ,it is the work of ,bosio1 and was
 modelled in #ahbb4  ,proceeding to the 
south-west1 by the ,rue de la           
,petite-,vrilliere1 the ,bank of ,france
 is before us4 ,it was formerly the     
,hotel de ,toulouse1 erected by         
,mansard1 in #agbj2 for the ,duke de la 
,vrilliere2 it is well situated1 and    
adapted to its present use1 but it has  
no striking architectural beauty4 ,the  
,rue ,vide ,gousset1 to the north-west  
of the ,place des ,victoires1 leads to  
the ,eglise des ,petits-,peres1 or de   
,notre-,dame des ,victoires1 erected in 
#afef4 ,it was called ,petits-,peres1 or
 little fathers1 on account of ,henry   
,,iv1 on two of the community of small  
stature having been introduced into his 
antechamber1 asking1 who are those      
little fathers8 ,the convent which was  
attached1 is now used as barracks for   

infantry4 ,the portal of the church was 
built in #agci1 and is composed of      
columns of the ionic and corinthian     
orders4 ,the interior has some          
handsomely decorated chapels and altars2
 the pictures by ,vanloo also are fine4 
,lulli1 the musical composer1 lies      
buried here4 ,in the ,rue ,notre-,dame  
des ,victoires is the immense           
establishment of the ,messageries       
,royales1 from whence start diligences  
to all parts of ,france2 we will pass   
through the yard into the ,rue          
,montmartre1 at ,no4 #dd1 is the ,marche
 ,st4 ,joseph1 at #aff1 the ,fontaine de
 la ,rue ,montmartre1 and at ,no4 #agf1 
the ,hotel d',uzes erected by ,le ,doux1
 considered one of the finest hotels in 
,paris4  ,we will now enter the         
,boulevard ,poissonniere1 by turning to 
the right1 and in passing along to the  
,boulevard ,bonne-,nouvelle must notice 
the very handsome ,bazaar called the    
,galeries de ,commerce1 and the noble   
building called ,maison du ,pont de ,fer

 with its curious iron bridge1 uniting  
the back and front premises with the    
,boulevard4 ,taking1 the ,rue de        
l',echiquier1 to the left1 will conduct 
us to the ,rue du                       
,faubourg-,poissonniere1 and opposite1  
at ,no4 #bc1 we find the ,garde ,meuble 
de la ,couronne1 containing all the     
furniture of the crown not in use1 the  
regalia1 and other articles of immense  
value1 but to obtain admission is       
extremely difficult4 ,annexed to this   
building is the ,conservatoire de       
,musique and the ,salle des ,menus      
,plaisirs4 ,in this street are several  
handsome mansions particularly at ,nos4 
#bf and #fj1 the gateway of which1 with 
its fine ionic columns1 is one of the   
most imposing in ,paris2 there also are 
large barracks for infantry with        
military trophies over the entrance4    
,from thence a few steps lead into the  
,rue ,lafayette1 and will bring us to a 
new church which promises to be1 when   
quite finished1 one of the most elegant 

in the capital1 it is situated at the   
summit of the ,rue ,hauteville4 ,the    
order is ionic1 which is solely and     
consistently preserved throughout the   
building1 all the ornaments are in good 
taste1 and the paintings promise to be  
in keeping with the rest1 so that it    
augurs well towards being quite a       
chef-d'oeuvre of art4 ,it is intended to
 replace the old church of ,st4 ,vincent
 de ,paule1 which stands about a furlong
 from it to the west in the ,rue        
,montholon1 to where we will proceed1   
and look at the altar-piece1 being the  
apotheosis of the philanthropist to whom
 it is dedicated1 and the only object in
 the church worth attention4  ,keeping  
straight on westward1 we come to the    
beautiful church of                     
,notre-,dame-de-,lorette1 finished in   
#ahcg1 it is exactly fronting the ,rue  
,lafitte1 from which the noble portico  
of corinthian columns has a most        
beautiful effect4 ,the interior is      
splendid1 indeed gorgeous1 all that     

painting1 sculpture1 and gilding can    
produce1 is here combined1 and the      
effect is dazzling1 and excites almost  
universal admiration1 and would mine    
also were it a theatre1 but the chaste1 
still solemnity of a holy sanctuary     
exists not here1 amongst the gay colours
 and lurid glare which every where meets
 the eye from the glitter1 which blazes 
around in this too profusely decorated  
church4 ,yet one must do justice as one 
examines it in detail1 and admit that in
 point of execution all its different   
departments are most exquisitely        
wrought1 and magnificent as a whole1    
only not consistent with our            
associations connected with a temple of 
worship4  ,we will now descend by the   
,rue ,faubourg ,montmartre to the       
,boulevards1 and bearing a little       
westward1 shall come to the very        
handsome ,rue ,vivienne1 through which  
we will proceed until we are opposite   
the ,bourse 7,exchange71 and there we   
pause and contemplate what ,i consider  

the beau ideal of fine architecture2 its
 noble range of #ff corinthian columns  
have no unseemly projections to break   
the broad mass of light1 which sheds its
 full expanse upon their large rounded  
shafts1 no profusion of frittering      
ornaments spoil the chaste harmony which
 pervades the whole character of this   
building1 which to me appears faultless4
 ,if there were any improvement         
possible1 ,i should say that if the bold
 flight of steps which leads to the     
front entrance had been carried all     
round the building the effect would have
 been still more grand than it now is4  
,the interior is adorned with paintings 
in imitation of bas relief1 which are   
executed in the most masterly style4    
,the grand ,salle de la ,bourse in the  
centre of the building1 where the       
stock-brokers and merchants meet1 is    
#aaf feet in length by #gf in breadth1  
entirely paved with marble4 ,the whole  
arrangements are such as to render it in
 every respect the most commodious for  

all commercial purposes4  ,from hence we
 proceed by the street opposite to the  
,rue ,richelieu1 and turning to the     
left1 we arrive at the ,place           
,richelieu1 and must pass a few minutes 
in admiring the elegant bronze fountain 
in the centre with its noble basins and 
four allegorical figures representing   
the ,seine1 the ,loire1 the ,saone1 and 
the ,garonne1 round which the water     
falls from above1 and flows beneath1    
producing a most beautiful effect4      
,opposite is the ,bibliotheque du ,roi1 
or ,royal ,library1 which certainly is  
the most extensive and most complete of 
any in the world1 possessing nearly     
#a1jjj1jjj books and printed pamphlets1 
#hj1jjj ,,mss1 #ajj1jjj medals1         
#a1djj1jjj engravings1 #cjj1jjj maps and
 plans4 ,this institution may be        
considered to owe its foundation to ,st4
 ,louis1 who first made the attempt of  
forming a public library1 and arranged  
some volumes in an apartment attached to
 the ,holy ,chapel2 under successive    

reigns the number gradually increased1  
whilst the locality assigned for them   
was often changed1 and it was not until 
the reign of ,louis ,,xv that they were 
placed where they now are1 in a most    
extensive building1 formerly the        
residence of ,cardinal ,mazarin1 which1 
seen from the ,rue ,richelieu1 presents 
nothing but a great ugly dead wall1 with
 a high roof to it1 and here and there a
 few square holes for windows1 but when 
you enter the court-yard1 you find      
rather a fine building than otherwise1  
and the interior displays1 by the vast  
size of the apartments1 some idea of    
what its former grandeur must have been2
 the richness of the ornaments and      
decorations in most instances are       
destroyed1 and replaced by books1 with  
which the walls are covered4 ,the       
engravings occupy the ground floor1 and 
amongst them are to be found fifty      
thousand portraits1 including every     
eminent character which ,europe has     
produced1 and presenting all the        

varieties of costumes existing at the   
different epochs in which they          
flourished2 in one of the rooms where   
the prints are kept is an oil portrait1 
in profile1 of the unfortunate ,king    
,john of ,france1 which is curious as an
 antiquity1 being an original1 and      
executed at a time when the art of      
portrait painting was very little known1
 as ,john died in the year #acfd4 ,on   
ascending the staircase to the right1 a 
piece of framed tapestry must be        
remarked1 as having formed part of the  
furniture of the chateau of ,bayard4    
,those who are curious in typographical 
specimens must ask to see the most      
ancient printed book with a date1 being 
#adeg1 also the ,bible1 called ,mazarin1
 printed in #adef1 with cut metal types4
 ,the oldest manuscript is one of       
,josephus1 and others are of the fifth  
and sixth centuries2 the amateurs of    
autography will be gratified in seeing  
letters from ,henri ,,iv to ,gabrielle  
d',estree1 and the writing of ,francis  

,i1 ,turenne1 ,madame de ,maintenon1    
,voltaire1 ,rousseau1 ,racine1          
,corneille2 ,boileau1 ,bossuet1 etc4    
,amongst other interesting objects is   
the chair of ,dagobert1 which is        
supposed to be much older even than his 
time1 and of ancient ,roman fabric1 the 
vase of the ,ptolemies1 the famous cameo
 representing the apotheosis of         
,augustus1 the seal of ,michael ,angelo1
 and the armour of ,francis ,i1 and the 
admirers of vertu must be delighted with
 the collection of exquisitely beautiful
 intaglios and cameos4 ,two globes1     
twelve feet in diameter1 being the      
largest extant1 cannot be overlooked4   
,mount ,parnassus in bronze1 which the  
,french poets and musicians are         
ascending with ,louis ,,xiv on the      
summit1 is a fine piece of workmanship2 
there is also a model of the ,pyramids  
of ,egypt1 with figures and trees to    
denote their height4 ,there are a few   
very good paintings1 and many objects   
calculated to excite the highest        

interest1 which it would take years     
properly to examine and appreciate4 ,the
 prayer-books of ,st4 ,louis and ,anne  
of ,brittany1 and one which belonged in 
succession to ,charles ,v ,charles ,,ix1
 and ,henri ,,iii1 bearing their        
signatures are exceedingly curious4     
,amongst the books and manuscripts may  
be found some of every known language   
which has characters4 ,this noble       
institution is open daily for students2 
authors2 etc41 from ten till three1     
except ,sundays and festivals2 and those
 who merely wish to view the            
establishment may be admitted from ten  
till three on ,tuesdays and ,fridays2   
except during the vacation1 which is    
from the #ast ,september to the #aeth   
,october4  ,in the same street1 a little
 farther southward1 at the corner of the
 ,rue ,traversiere1 the preparations    
will be observed for a statue to        
,moliere1 on the spot where stood the   
house in which he died1 and nearly      
opposite is a small passage which passes

 under a house2 and takes one opposite  
another of a similar description1 which 
leads into the ,palais ,royal3 suddenly 
emerging from the little dark alleys    
into a beautiful area1 has a most       
extraordinary and pleasing effect2 you  
see before you a parallelogram of #gjj  
feet by #cjj1 completely surrounded by a
 beautiful building with arcades1 and   
having flower-gardens2 statues1 and a   
splendid fountain in the centre4 ,to see
 this extraordinary scene to the        
greatest advantage1 the first visit     
should be by night1 and the impulsive   
coup-d'oeil tempts the beholder to      
imagine that he has around him the      
realization of some gay dream of a fairy
 palace1 the immense glare of light     
glittering on the falling waters1 the   
brilliance of the illuminated shops2 the
 magnificence and richness of the       
articles therein displayed1 with        
reflecting lamps so contrived as to     
throw a powerful light on their         
sparkling jewels and glittering ware1   

the vistas of trees1 the borders of     
flowers1 the well dressed company and   
animated groups1 with the gilded        
coffee-houses beaming all round1 form   
such a picture as it is more easy to    
imagine than describe4 ,four galleries  
with shops encircle the garden of the   
,palais ,royal1 three of them are under 
piazzas opening to the grand area1 the  
fourth1 called the ,galerie d',orleans1 
is enclosed on both sides1 and the roof 
is formed by one immense skylight1      
whilst the effect of the whole is       
superb4 ,over the shops are mostly      
either coffee-houses or restaurateurs1  
some of them splendidly decorated and   
most brilliantly lighted2 as may be     
imagined1 this amusing locality forms   
the lounge of thousands1 and no stranger
 ever comes to ,paris without making an 
early visit to the ,palais ,royal4 ,it  
was originally intended by ,cardinal    
,richelieu for his own residence1 but   
the magnificence which he had already   
developed1 with intentions of augmenting

 his design to so extravagant and       
luxurious a degree1 began to excite the 
jealousy of ,louis ,,xiii1 and finally  
the ,cardinal made him a present of it  
shortly before his death4 ,since then it
 has been inhabited by several royal    
visiters1 and such changes have been    
made that the original plan is scarcely 
to be traced1 it having formerly been so
 much more extensive as to occupy       
several of the surrounding streets4 ,so 
numerous are the shops1 and so various  
are the articles within them1 that it   
has been observed that a person might   
live in the ,palais ,royal without ever 
stirring out of it1 finding all within  
it required to supply the wants of a    
reasonable being4  ,although under the  
comprehensive title of ,palais ,royal1  
the whole extent is included1 not only  
garden but all the surrounding shops and
 the stories above1 yet that part which 
specifically is the ,palais ,royal1 or  
,royal ,palace1 is situated at the      
southern extremity1 looking into two    

court-yards1 and where the present ,king
 with his family resided until #ahca1   
when he removed to the ,tuileries4 ,it  
is entered by the ,rue ,st4 ,honore1 and
 may be considered rather a fine        
building2 the doric1 ionic1 and         
corinthian orders are visible in        
different parts of the edifice1 in the  
interior there are some extremely       
handsome apartments1 beautifully        
furnished but not very large for a      
palace2 there are many very interesting 
pictures1 particularly those relative to
 the ,king's life1 from the period1 of  
his teaching geography in a school in   
,switzerland1 to his return to ,paris2  
also the subjects connected with the    
events of the ,palace are well worth    
attention1 and many of them painted by  
the first rate artists4 ,the apartments 
may usually be seen on ,sundays from #a 
till #d1 on presentation of the         
passport4  ,opposite the ,palais-,royal 
is an open space called the ,place du   
,palais ,royal1 on the southern side is 

the ,chateau-d',eau1 a reservoir of     
water for supplying the neighbouring    
fountains2 it is decorated with statues1
 and two pavilions4 ,just near it is the
 ,rue ,st4 ,thomas-du-,louvre1 where    
formerly stood the famous ,hotel de     
,longueville1 the residence of the ,duke
 de ,longueville1 and ,elboeuf1 where   
the intrigues of the ,fronde were       
carried on1 during the minority of      
,louis ,,xiv1 against ,mazarin2 it is   
now in part occupied by the king's      
stables1 containing #afj horses1 and may
 be visited any day by applying at the  
porter's lodge4 ,we will now retrace a  
few steps eastward to the ,rue ,st4     
,honore1 and passing by the large       
establishment of ,laffitte1 ,caillard1  
et ,compagnie1 for diligences to all    
parts of ,france1 we shall come to the  
,oratoire1 built for the ,pretres de    
l',oratoire in #afba1 but now devoted to
 the protestant worship2 it is adorned  
with doric columns1 with a range of     
corinthian pillars above1 and in the    

interior1 the roof of which is highly   
ornamented4 ,service is performed in    
,french every ,sunday at half past #ab4 
,within a hundred yards eastward is the 
,fontaine de la ,croix-du-,tiroir1 at   
the corner of the ,rue de l',arbre-,sec1
 rebuilt by ,soufflot 7on the site of   
one erected under ,francis ,i74 ,adorned
 by pilasters and a nymph1 which would  
have been graceful but is spoiled by    
their painting over it4  ,the first     
turning in the ,rue de l',arbre-,sec1 is
 the ,rue des ,fosses ,st4              
,germain-l',auxerrois1 and at ,no4 #ad  
is the house formerly called the ,hotel 
,ponthieu1 in which ,admiral ,coligni   
was assassinated on ,st4 ,bartholomew's 
day1 in #aegb2 in the very room where   
the event took place the witty actress1 
,sophie ,arnould1 was born1 in #agdj1   
then called the ,hotel ,lisieux1 and in 
#agdg1 it was occupied by ,vanloo the   
celebrated painter4 ,we return to the   
,rue de l',arbre-,sec1 and a few steps  
southward bring us in front of the      

venerable and mouldering church of ,st4 
,germain-l',auxerrois 7vide page #fa72  
the oldest part still standing and      
supposed to be of the #adth century1 is 
the western front2 the porch was built  
by ,jean ,gausel in #adca1 several other
 parts have been built at later periods2
 altogether it is a most interesting    
building and is connected with many sad 
historical associations1 it was the bell
 of this church that tolled the signal  
for the massacre of the protestants on  
the night of ,st4 ,bartholomew2 in a    
little street adjoining the south side  
of the church1 is a house with a        
picturesque turret1 supposed to have    
belonged to some building attached to   
the church2 there is a very remarkable  
piece of carve-work in wood and some    
interesting pictures within the church2 
we will now leave its tranquil vaulted  
aisles1 and quitting by the western     
porch1 the most beautiful facade of the 
,louvre rises before us1 which was      
erected in the reign of ,louis ,,xiv1   

after a design by ,claude ,perrault4    
,illustration3 ,champin del4 ,lith4     
,rigo ,freres ,cie ,st4 ,germain        
l',auxerrois4  ,the ,louvre has been so 
often described in works of so many     
different natures1 descending the       
different grades from histories to      
pamphlets1 that ,i shall not fatigue my 
readers with a too detailed review of   
its wonders1 but endeavour to give them 
some impression of its grandeur1 with as
 little prolixity as possible4 ,i have  
already1 in the historical sketch of    
,paris1 touched upon its foundation1 and
 the various epochs at which the        
different parts of the building were    
erected1 and certainly let any one place
 himself in the middle of the grand     
court1 and behold the four sides1 and   
see if he can call to mind any thing    
equal to it1 take it1 for its all in    
all2 ,i am well aware that there is     
rather a redundancy of ornament to      
satisfy the purest taste1 and in that   
respect there is undoubtedly a deviation

 from perfection1 but the approach is   
sufficiently near to excite the warmest 
admiration4 ,each side is #djh feet1 and
 although there is a degree of          
uniformity1 taken en masse1 preserved1  
with two of the facades particularly1   
yet on examination the ornaments are    
found to be different1 each side        
requires much close study after a       
coup-d'oeil has been taken of the whole1
 and the more it is inspected1 the more 
beautiful will it be found2 the statues 
and different devices are by five       
different sculptors1 the most celebrated
 of their day1 the order of the pillars 
is generally corinthian1 but there are  
some1 which are composite4 ,the external
 facades are by no means burthened with 
ornament1 the north and western sides   
being perfectly plain1 the south side   
has a noble effect1 and faces the quay1 
having plenty of room to admit of its   
being properly viewed and justice       
rendered to its noble range of forty    
corinthian pilasters2 this is by        

,perrault1 as well as the eastern side1 
which is certainly one of the finest    
specimens of modern architecture that   
can be imagined4  ,a grand colonnade    
composed of #bh coupled corinthian      
columns has the most splendid effect1   
the basement story being perfectly      
simple1 whilst the central mass of the  
building which forms the gateway is     
crowned by a pediment of stones1 each   
#eb feet in length and three in         
thickness2 all is vast1 all is grand    
about this noble front1 which is justly 
the admiration of every architectural   
connoisseur1 no matter from what part of
 the world he may come4  ,of the        
interior volumes might be said1 ,i must 
first1 after conducting my reader to the
 great door on the southern side of the 
building1 direct his attention to the   
grand staircase1 which is of a most     
splendid character1 as to design1 and   
consistently beautiful as to execution4 
,the visiter after passing by a small   
room filled with very old paintings     

enters a larger when the grand gallery  
extends before him1 which is unrivalled 
in the world1 being above a quarter of a
 mile in length1 and #db feet in width1 
filled with paintings1 principally from 
the old masters1 but of them ,i will    
treat in a future chapter2 it contains  
#adjf pictures some of them being of    
immense size4 ,we will now pass on for  
the moment to the other apartments4 ,the
 bed-room of ,henry ,,iv must arrest our
 attention1 and the eye naturally falls 
on the alcove where his bed was placed1 
the oak carving1 and gilded mouldings   
have been preserved exactly in the same 
state that they were when he died4 ,we  
next proceed to a suite of rooms        
containing paintings of the ,spanish1   
,french1 ,flemish1 and ,italian schools2
 others devoted to drawings2 of the     
latter there are #abic4 ,another range  
of apartments is on the ground floor and
 called the ,museum of ,antiquities1    
containing statues and various specimens
 of sculpture1 in all #a1aaf objects4   

,other suites of rooms are appropriated 
to ,egyptian1 ,greek1 and ,roman        
antiquities1 and in some of the         
apartments are objects of great value2  
that the amount of real worth of the    
contents of the ,louvre must be         
incalculable1 one casket alone of ,mary 
de ,medicis is estimated at several     
thousand pounds1 and there are many     
articles equally costly4 ,one portion of
 the building is devoted to every thing 
that concerns naval architecture and an 
immense variety of marine objects1 with 
a number of curious models4 ,the ,louvre
 may be entered on presenting the       
passport1 every day1 and new wonders and
 beauties may be discovered at each     
visit1 although they be repeated for    
months together4  ,we now pass on       
westward1 and enter the ,place du       
,carrousel1 so called from ,louis ,,xiv 
having held a grand tournament there in 
#affb1 but it was not then so extensive 
as at present4 ,the triumphal arch      
erected by ,napoleon in #ahjf1 first    

strikes the eye a beautiful monument    
composed of different coloured marbles1 
of works in bronze with figures1 and    
devices relative to war1 and            
commemorative of the campaigns of the   
,french army in #ahje2 all the different
 parts are admirable from the exquisite 
manner of their execution4 ,on our left 
is the grand picture-gallery of the     
,louvre1 communicating with the         
,tuileries1 on the right1 the same      
description of building exists in part1 
but is not yet completed4 ,before us    
spreads the extended dimensions of the  
palace of the ,tuileries2 with all      
deficiences it must be admitted that it 
is a noble pile1 and has a grand1 though
 heavy imposing air1 the height of the  
roof is certainly a deformity1 but we   
will enter the grand court-yard1 which  
is separated from the ,place du         
,carrousel by a handsome railing with   
gilt spear-heads1 and then pass under   
the palace1 and view the facade on the  
garden side1 where the sameness of the  

building is relieved by a handsome      
colonnade in the centre1 adorned with   
statues1 vases1 etc42 the wings also    
have a fine effect1 they are more       
massive than the body of the building1  
which although not a beauty as respects 
the edifice in general1 yet the         
execution of all the different parts is 
admirable in the identical detail2      
having a fair share of ornament not     
injudiciously disposed1 situated as the 
,palace is seen1 at the end of a        
splendid garden1 it has a most striking 
and beautiful effect4  ,the interior    
contains many apartments which are1 as  
might be expected1 exceedingly handsome1
 one termed the ,galerie de ,diane is   
#agf feet long by #cb broad1 it is of   
the time of ,louis ,,xiii1 and rich in  
gilding and paintings1 but generally the
 furniture is not so magnificent as     
might be imagined2 those occupied by the
 ,duke of ,orleans are an exception2    
being very splendid4 ,amongst the       
numerous objects of vertu which here    

abound is the large solid silver statue 
of ,peace1 presented to ,napoleon by the
 city of ,paris after the treaty of     
,amiens4 ,the pictures are generally by 
the most eminent ,french artists4 ,the  
,salle des ,marechaux contains the      
portraits of the living ,marshals of    
,france2 ,soult1 ,molitor1 and ,grouchy 
are the only remaining1 whose names     
figured in the campaigns of ,napoleon2  
on the whole it may be remarked that the
 apartments generally in the ,tuileries 
are not equal in point of extent and    
decoration1 to the saloons of many of   
the nobility of ,paris4 ,when the ,king 
is absent1 the ,palace may be viewed by 
applying to ,m4 le ,commandant du       
,chateau des ,tuileries1 and the same is
 the case with the apartments of the    
,duke of ,orleans4  ,the gardens present
 a most agreeable aspect1 although too  
stiff and formal to be in good taste1   
yet the melange of noble high trees1    
wide gravel walks1 marble basins1       
beautiful fountains1 the most classic   

statues1 beds of flowers1 ornamental    
vases1 and the commanding view to the   
,triumphal ,arch1 certainly form an     
ensemble which produces the most        
delightful sensation2 in fact1 ,i never 
enter them1 such is the cheering effect 
upon me1 without having but one         
unpleasant feeling1 and that is1 to     
think that ,i have not time to go there 
oftener1 and pass hours amongst such    
charming scenes4 ,to view the number of 
sweet merry looking children1 with their
 clean and neat bonnes 7nursery maids71 
all playing so happily together1        
enlivens the heart1 then the retired    
walks between the dense foliage in the  
heat of summer invites the mind to      
meditation4 ,the exquisitely beautiful  
statues are also most interesting       
objects of study1 and ,i recommend them 
particularly to the attention of the    
visiter4 ,on the northern side of the   
gardens1 extends the handsome ,rue      
,rivoli1 with its noble colonnade2 at   
,no4 #dh1 is the ,hotel des ,finances1 a

 spacious building covering a large     
extent of ground1 containing several    
courts1 with offices1 and splendid      
apartments for the ,minister4 ,we shall 
now cross the ,rue ,rivoli1 and take the
 ,rue des ,pyramides1 also having an    
arcade all through the ,rue ,st4        
,honore1 and facing us rises the noble  
church of ,st4 ,roch 7vide page #ig74   
,the entrance is approached by a flight 
of steps1 which have witnessed some     
sanguinary scenes1 when ,napoleon poured
 forth the iron hail of his artillery   
upon the opposing force which was there 
posted2 again1 in #ahcj1 on the same    
spot1 the people made a firm resistance 
against the gendarmerie of ,charles ,x4 
,the portal has two ranges of columns of
 corinthian and doric orders1 the       
interior1 although plain1 has a fine    
appearance1 heightened by the effect    
produced by many handsome monuments to  
illustrious characters who have been    
buried here1 amongst the rest1          
,corneille2 painting as well as         

sculpture has lent its aid in decorating
 this church1 as it contains some fine  
pictures4 ,the ,royal ,family attend    
here1 and the music is very fine1 but   
generally there are such crowds that it 
is difficult to enter4 ,at ,no4 #ac in  
the ,rue d',argenteuil1 behind ,st4     
,roch1 in #afhd1 ,corneille died4 ,a    
black slab in the court-yard bears an   
inscription and the bust of the poet4   
,returning to the ,rue ,st4 ,honore1 we 
proceed westward1 and pass by the ,rue  
,marche ,st4 ,honore on our right1 in   
which is a most commodious market4      
,pursuing our course we look down the   
,rue ,castiglione1 which communicates   
with the ,rue ,rivoli1 and the ,place   
,vendome2 it is remarkably handsome1 and
 has a fine colonnade1 at the corner is 
a fountain1 which is plainer than they  
usually are1 and a little farther to the
 west1 at ,no4 #cfi1 is the ,assomption 
7vide page #if74 ,this church formerly  
belonged to a convent of nuns1 styled   
,les ,dames de l',assomption1 the       

remains may be perceived in the ,rue    
,neuve du ,luxembourg1 and are now      
occupied as barracks4 ,it was completed 
in #afgf4 ,it contains some interesting 
pictures4 ,a chapel is contiguous1      
dedicated to ,st4 ,hyacinthe1 which was 
erected in #ahbb4 ,continuing to follow 
the ,rue ,st4 ,honore1 we cross the ,rue
 ,royale1 displaying the fountains of   
the ,place de la ,concorde to our left1 
and the ,madeleine on our right1 we     
enter the ,rue ,faubourg ,st4 ,honore1  
in which are many most superb hotels1   
amongst the rest1 the ,british          
,ambassador's1 formerly the ,hotel      
,borghese1 occupied by the ,princess    
,pauline1 sister of ,bonaparte2 the next
 hotel is that of the ,baroness         
,pontalba1 and is one of the most       
splendid in ,paris1 which the visiter   
must not fail to remark4 ,we next come  
to the ,palais de l',elysee ,bourbon1   
erected in #agah1 and afterwards        
purchased and occupied by ,madame de    
,pompadour1 since when it has had many  

masters1 amongst the rest1 ,murat1      
,napoleon1 the ,emperor of ,russia1 the 
,duke of ,wellington1 and the ,duke de  
,berri1 but it now belongs to the crown1
 and combines an appearance of splendid 
desolation1 with a variety of           
associations1 that cause us to muse on  
the fall of the great4 ,the library     
which is over the council chamber was   
fitted up by ,madame ,murat1 in the most
 exquisite style1 as a surprise for her 
husband after his return from one of his
 campaigns2 it next became the bed-room 
of ,maria ,louisa1 and the birthplace of
 the daughter of the ,duke and ,duchess 
de ,berri4 ,here also is shown the      
bed-room1 and bed in which ,napoleon    
last slept in ,paris1 after the battle  
of ,waterloo4 ,the building itself is   
handsome1 and though not large1 has an  
elegant appearance1 some of the         
apartments are very splendid1 but now   
having a solitary aspect4 ,the garden1  
which is large1 contains some noble     
trees1 and is laid out in the ,italian  

style4 ,to see this ,palace1 apply for  
admission to ,m4 l',intendant de la     
,liste civile4  ,facing the ,elysee     
,bourbon1 is the ,hotel ,beauveau1 in   
the ,place ,beauveau1 occupied by the   
,neapolitan ,ambassador4 ,still         
proceeding westward we come to the      
church ,st4 ,philippe du ,roule1 which  
was completed in #aghd4 ,it has but very
 little ornament1 but is an exceedingly 
chaste production1 the columns of the   
portico are doric1 and those of the     
interior are ionic4 ,it contains several
 good pictures4 ,nearly opposite is a   
handsome building with tuscan columns1  
and is used as stables for the ,king1   
and also a receptacle for his carriages4
 ,a short distance farther on is the    
,hopital ,beaujon1 founded by the banker
 of that name in #ahbd1 a handsome and  
well arranged building1 having an air of
 health and cheerfulness2 it contains   
#djj beds1 and the situation is         
particularly salubrious1 and so well    
ordered that the inspection of it will  

afford much gratification to the        
visiter4 ,the ,chapelle ,beaujon1       
opposite1 is by the same founder as the 
hospital1 and may be considered as      
belonging to it4  ,we must now travel   
back as far as the ,british             
,ambassador's1 and facing is the ,rue   
d',aguesseau1 in which is the ,episcopal
 ,chapel1 entirely appropriated to the  
,english protestant worship1 a building 
well adapted in every respect to the    
purposes for which it was erected4 ,a   
few steps farther we turn to the right1 
which will bring us to the ,rue de la   
,madeleine1 in which we shall find the  
,chapelle ,expiatoire1 built over the   
spot where ,louis ,,xvi and ,marie      
,antoinette were buried1 immediately    
after their execution1 and the interior 
is adorned by their statues2 their      
remains were afterwards removed to ,st4 
,denis4 ,this chapel is one of the most 
elegant and interesting monuments in    
,paris1 it is in the form of a cross1   
with a dome in the centre4 ,a short     

distance eastward1 is the ,college      
,royal de ,bourbon1 ,no4 #e1 ,rue ,st4  
,croix1 which was built for a ,convent  
of ,capuchins1 in #agha4 ,it consists of
 a doorway in the centre1 with columns1 
and two pavilions at the ends1 one of   
which was the chapel of the convent1 but
 is now the church ,st4 ,louis1 a plain 
building of the doric order1 but        
decorated by some fine fresco paintings1
 and four large pictures of saints1     
painted in wax4 ,from hence we may take 
the ,rue ,joubert1 opposite1 and proceed
 until we arrive at the ,rue de la      
,victoire1 formerly called the ,rue     
,chantereine1 where resided ,napoleon   
after his ,italian campaign1 and from   
hence went forth to strike the coup     
d'etat which dissolved the government on
 the #ahth ,brumaire4 ,the house was    
built for the famous dancer ,guimard1   
then passed to ,madame ,talma1 who sold 
it to madame ,beauharnais1 afterwards   
the ,empress ,josephine1 who added the  
pavilion at the nearer end4 ,bertrand   

inhabited this mansion a short time     
after his return from ,st4 ,helena1 at  
present it is untenanted1 and undergoing
 repair2 it belongs to the widow of     
,general ,lefebvre ,desnouettes4 ,in the
 garden is a bust of ,napoleon1 which   
certainly possesses no great merit4 ,if 
disposed to extend our walk1 we may     
proceed northward to the ,rue de ,clichy
 and there find a prison for debtors1 in
 an airy1 healthy situation1 which is   
satisfactory information for some of our
 prodigal countrymen1 too many of whom1 
,i regret to say1 have been1 and are    
still1 inhabitants of this building1    
which contains from #aej to #bjj        
persons4 ,in returning we will amuse    
ourselves in wandering about many of the
 streets of the ,chaussee-d',antin1 both
 right and left1 which have in them some
 most beautiful houses decorated with   
statues and the most elaborate          
carve-work4 ,on returning to the        
,boulevards by the ,madeleine1 as we    
pass along we notice the ,hotel des     

,affaires ,etrangeres1 or residence of  
the ,minister of ,foreign ,affairs1     
corner of the ,rue                      
,neuve-des-,capucines1 formerly         
belonging to ,marshal ,berthier1 we then
 proceed to the eastward1 and turn down 
the ,rue ,neuve ,st4 ,augustin1 which   
will bring us to the point where the    
streets ,la ,michodiere and ,port ,mahon
 meet1 at the beautiful ,fontaine de    
,louis-le-,grand1 with the statue of a  
,genius striking at a dolphin1 with     
consistent ornaments extremely well     
executed4     ,,chapter ,,vii4       ,a 
matter of fact chapter1 more useful than
 amusing2 advice to      ,englishmen    
visiting or sojourning at ,paris2       
several serviceable      establishments 
recommended2 hints as to management and 
economy4   ,although ,i have already    
afforded my readers a transient glance  
at the ,champs-,elysees on entering     
,paris1 yet so charming a spot must not 
be passed over altogether in so hurried 
a manner2 possessing as it does so many 

attractions for the happy portion of the
 ,parisians1 which do not only consist  
of its fine vistas of high trees1 its   
broad walks1 flowing fountains1 etc41   
but a wide open space is left1 where the
 people recreate themselves with        
athletic games1 whilst in other parts   
there are swings1 merry-go-rounds1      
shows1 music1 dancing1 and every variety
 of amusement that can afford pleasure  
to those who are merrily inclined4      
,franconi has also a ,theatre here for  
the display of horsemanship during the  
summer1 which is extremely well         
conducted1 and constantly filled4 ,the  
prices are from #a to #b francs4 ,in the
 south-western portion of the           
,champs-,elysees1 is a quarter called   
,chaillot1 in which is situated1 at ,no4
 #gh bis1 the ,chapelle ,marboeuf1 where
 protestant service is regularly        
performed every ,sunday4 ,at ,no4 #ii is
 ,sainte ,perine1 a refuge for persons  
above #fj with small incomes1 who by    
paying #fjj francs a year1 are          

comfortably provided for1 or by         
depositing a certain sum at once1 on    
entering4 ,it was formerly a monastery1 
and can accommodate #ahj men and women4 
,the church of ,st4 ,pierre is a little 
farther on1 in which there are a few    
pictures1 and the choir is of the #aeth 
century4 ,there are a great number of   
very handsome houses about the          
,champs-,elysees2 which is a favourite  
neighbourhood with the ,english1 and it 
is an agreeable vicinity1 on account of 
its airy position1 its picturesque      
appearance1 and affording pleasure in   
viewing the numbers who crowd there for 
the purpose of enjoyment1 and with the  
determination to enjoy4 ,it is also a   
fashionable resort for pedestrians1     
equestrians1 and carriages1 and whilst  
,i am dilating on the attractions of the
 ,champs-,elysees1 ,i must not omit to  
direct the attention of my readers to   
the very delightful establishment which 
,doctor ,achille ,hoffman has formed in 
the ,avenue ,fortune1 which is called   

the ,villa ,beaujon1 uniting within its 
interior every object desirable for     
health1 comfort1 and pleasure4  ,this   
establishment has been formed by the    
,doctor on such a system1 as to render  
it in every respect a cheerful and      
agreeable residence for boarders2 hence 
every rational and intellectual         
amusement is provided within its walls1 
a piano1 and instruments for forming a  
quartetto1 a billiard room1 newspapers1 
periodical works1 baths1 etc41          
alternately present the inmates with a  
fund of amusement3 possessing also the  
greatest advantage in having ,madame    
,hoffman at the head of the             
establishment1 who from the good society
 she has been accustomed to frequent1   
and her mental qualifications1 is       
enabled1 by her conversation1 ever to   
cause the hours to pass most pleasantly 
with the residents of the ,villa1 to    
whose comforts1 and wants1 she pays the 
most unremitting attention1 and unites  
the advantage of speaking ,english4     

,doctor ,hoffman is willing to receive  
any patients except such as may be      
afflicted with either contagious        
complaints1 or with mental alienation1  
and to attend them upon the homoepathic 
principles1 in which he has attained    
considerable celebrity1 having for many 
years practised upon that system with   
the greatest success4 ,the apartments   
are fitted up in a style of elegance    
which at once convinces the spectator of
 the good taste of the director1 and    
although they are numerous1 each has its
 peculiar attraction1 either in the view
 from the windows1 or from the internal 
arrangement3 but the quality which is   
most recommendable in this              
establishment1 is the peculiar care     
which has been devoted to every minutia 
which can in any degree tend to comfort1
 and particularly for that season when  
it is most required1 having by the means
 of two immense caloriferes1 so         
contrived that the whole house is warmed
 by a pure air1 which is introduced from

 the garden1 and conveyed not only into 
every apartment1 but also to the        
staircases1 corridors1 and even into the
 closets1 the degree of heat being      
regulated exactly to the grade desired2 
thus a person may pass a whole winter in
 this little ,elysium1 without ever     
feeling any of its baneful effects1     
which is a great desideratum for persons
 of delicate health1 or having the      
slightest tendency to consumption1 to   
whom the most powerful enemies are cold 
and damp1 two intruders who are never   
permitted to enter under any pretext the
 ,villa ,beaujon4  ,for the pedestrian  
the greatest treat is afforded1 as the  
neighbourhood consists of a most        
numerous variety of delightful walks1   
and for those who desire to enjoy the   
beauties of nature1 without fatigue1 the
 most favourable opportunity is offered1
 a terrace having been formed at the    
summit of the premises which commands a 
panoramic view for fifteen leagues      
round1 comprehending within its circle  

an immense variety of villages1         
chateaux1 hills1 wood1 water1 and every 
description of picturesque scenery4     
,there is also a garden prettily        
arranged1 and kept in the nicest order1 
with kiosques and a jet d'eau1 in fact  
there is no attraction omitted which    
could possibly contribute towards       
rendering the ,villa a most desirable   
residence for every season2 the charge  
is moderate1 and the treatment in every 
respect the most liberal1 the ,doctor   
being in such a position that emolument 
is not an important object4 ,amongst    
other advantages which the establishment
 possesses1 is that of always having one
 ,english servant4 ,the situation which 
has been selected by the ,doctor for his
 residence1 is not only the most        
agreeable but considered decidedly one  
of the most healthy round ,paris1 as the
 few houses which are immediately around
 it are of the better order and         
environed by gardens1 therefore the     
purity of the air is untainted by smoke 

or any effluvia arising from closely    
inhabited cities2 indeed in that        
instance ,paris has a great advantage   
over ,london1 on account of wood being  
the principal fuel burnt in the former1 
and coal in the latter1 hence ,paris    
seen from a height1 every object is     
visible from the clearness of the       
atmosphere1 whilst ,london under the    
same circumstances is capped by a murky 
sort of cloud by which the greater part 
of the city is generally obscured4      
,although the ,french capital is above  
three degrees south of the ,english1 yet
 the former is colder in the winter1    
only that it is dryer1 consequently more
 wholesome and the cold weather is of   
much shorter duration1 as the springs   
are always finer and forwarder than in  
,england1 which is proved by the        
vegetables being much earlier in ,paris1
 peas being sold cheap about the streets
 on the #bjth or #beth of ,may1 and     
other leguminous crops in proportion4   
,the autumns are often very fine1       

generally1 indeed1 ,i have known the    
month of ,november to be quite clear and
 sunny1 but of latter years the summers 
have been wet4 ,the ,english in most    
instances have their health better in   
,france than in ,england1 which is      
considered to arise from several        
different causes2 the lower and even    
some of the middle classes in ,london   
and other large towns are much addicted 
to drinking quantities of porter and    
ale1 which are not so accessible in     
,paris or in any town in ,france2 hence 
after a time they accustom themselves to
 the light wines of the country1 and    
with the higher classes of ,english the 
case is nearly similar1 as they renounce
 port1 sherry1 and ,madeira1 for        
,burgundy1 ,bordeaux1 etc41 and as a    
draught wine even good ordinaire1 but a 
grand point is to obtain it of the best 
quality1 proportioned to the price2     
perhaps there is not a town in the world
 where there are so many persons who    
sell wine as in ,paris1 but as there is 

a great deal of quackery and compounding
 practised1 ,i must caution my          
countrymen not to purchase at any house 
to which they are not particularly      
recommended4 ,i shall therefore advise  
them to give the preference to the old  
established house of ,meunier1 which has
 existed ever since #ahjj1 now conducted
 by ,messrs4 ,debonnelle et ,guiard2 ,i 
have myself long dealt there1 as also my
 friends1 and have ever found their     
prices the most reasonable1 and the     
qualities unexceptionable2 their tarif  
comprehends all descriptions of wine1   
and the charges in proportion1          
commencing on so moderate a scale that  
they are attainable to the most modest  
purse1 and as there is no description of
 known wine which they do not possess1  
of course some there are at very high   
prices2 the same case may be stated of  
their liqueurs1 of which they have every
 variety4 ,in this establishment persons
 may either be accommodated with a      
single bottle1 or may purchase by the   

pipe1 as they carry on an extensive     
wholesale business2 their great         
warehouses are at ,bercy which is the   
grand depot for the wine merchants of   
,paris4 ,this is one of those houses to 
which ,i have before alluded as having1 
although nearly in the centre of the    
city1 a delightful garden1 and in the   
present instance quite a little aviary  
of canary and other birds1 which is open
 to the street1 situated ,no4 #bb1 ,rue 
des ,saints-,peres1 ,faubourg ,st4      
,germain4 ,the present proprietors were 
clerks in the house as long back as     
#ahaj1 and have never since been absent 
from the business1 which has been       
considerably augmented by their extreme 
attention and civility to their         
customers1 and the reputation which they
 have acquired for keeping good         
articles1 and vending them at fair      
prices4  ,as a great object of my work  
is to render it as serviceable as       
possible to my readers1 ,i must not omit
 some cautionary remarks upon the       

tradespeople of ,paris2 an opinion has  
generally existed of their              
predisposition to overcharge the        
,english1 and in a great many instances 
it has been the case1 when they first   
came over to ,france2 an idea existed   
that they were extremely rich1 and a bad
 feeling prevailed of making the wealthy
 pay3 even amongst their own country    
people1 they do the same1 it is a common
 phrase with them1 ,il est riche1 alors 
faites-lui payer1 ,he is rich1 so make  
him pay1 and that system of calculating 
the weight of a person's means and      
making the charge1 accordingly1 is still
 followed in a degree2 even the         
government have in some measure         
encouraged the practice1 no doubt from a
 good motive1 which has prompted them at
 certain periods to enforce regulations1
 that some articles should be sold for  
less to the poor1 such as bread1 and    
other necessaries of life4 ,another     
circumstance caused the ,french to      
continue their impositions upon the     

,english1 their having been duped by the
 latter1 and in many instances to a     
considerable amount1 as amongst the     
crowds who came over1 were many persons 
who were not very scrupulous with       
respect to paying their debts1 to whom  
the ,french willingly gave credit1 the  
,english name at that period having     
stood extremely high in the estimation  
of the ,french1 but having sustained    
several losses on account of their too  
great facility in giving credit1 they   
determined to make such of the ,english 
as they could attract1 pay a portion    
towards what they had been mulcted by   
their runaway country-people4 ,the      
,french are not alone in that respect1  
as some of the fashionable tailors in   
,london charge an immense price for     
their coats1 because they say they only 
get paid for two out of three1 therefore
 they make those pay dearly for such as 
do not pay at all4  ,the system now is  
rather better in ,paris1 so many        
shopkeepers having adopted the plan of  

selling at ,prix fixe as they call it1  
which means fixed prices1 from which    
they seldom or ever depart2 but then    
there is a great difference with regard 
to the value of the articles in which   
they deal1 some shops being infinitely  
cheaper than others1 ,i therefore have  
been at considerable pains to discover  
those who conduct their business in an  
honourable manner and shall give my     
readers the benefit of my researches4   
,with respect to provisions there       
certainly is a difference with regard to
 the quarters1 which are the more or the
 less fashionable1 the former being     
somewhat dearer than the latter1 but    
there is a proportionate difference with
 regard to the quality1 and therefore in
 some instances the higher priced       
articles are the cheapest in the end2   
for instance1 ,m4 ,rolland1 of ,no4     
#cfc1 ,rue ,st4 ,honore1 sells none but 
the very best meat2 certainly in some of
 the obscurer parts of the town1 and in 
the markets it is to be had cheaper2 but

 the quality far inferior4 ,i have heard
 the ,english complain of the meat not  
being so good in ,paris as it is in     
,london1 but if they dealt with ,m4     
,rolland they could not in justice make 
the remark1 he is always the possessor  
of the ox which is exhibited on ,shrove 
,tuesday1 and which weighed the last    
time nearly #d1jjjlbs2 he retains a well
 executed portrait of it1 which he shows
 to his customers1 but he has often     
beasts approaching that weight1 as about
 a dozen every year are fatted by the   
,norman graziers for the prize1 and he  
is the principal purchaser2 his other   
meat is proportionately fine1 therefore 
,i fancy that a good manager will find  
that economy is promoted by dealing with
 ,m4 ,holland in preference to any one  
who may sell at a nominally lower price4
  ,now that economy is on the tapis1 ,i 
must endeavour to enlighten my reader as
 much on that head as ,i can1 by giving 
him all the advantage of my own         
experience in the art1 and as ,i am an  

old practitioner1 ,i have the vanity to 
flatter myself that my advice on that   
score may count for something4 ,on      
quitting ,england ,i advise my readers  
to disburthen themselves of all their   
clothes1 except such as are absolutely  
requisite for travelling1 and then on   
arriving at ,paris to order those of    
which they may stand in need2 indeed for
 myself1 when ,i return to ,england ,i  
always provide a good stock of          
habiliments1 convinced that the cloth   
procured in ,france is so much more     
durable than that obtained in ,england1 
and the workmen being paid much less1   
you have a superior article in ,france  
for a lower charge4 ,as to the          
difference of fashion or cut1 ,i leave  
that to be decided by a committee of    
dandies of the two countries1 and to    
prevent my readers from getting into bad
 hands1 ,i recommend them at once to ,m4
 ,courtois1 aux ,montagnes ,russes1 ,no4
 #aa1 ,rue ,neuve-des-,petits-,champs1  
facing the ,rue ,vivienne1 there the    

stranger is sure of being fairly treated
 with regard to the worth of the        
commodity1 the solidity and neatness of 
the execution1 and punctuality in the   
fulfillment of his engagements4 ,the    
difference of prices between a          
fashionable ,london and ,parisian tailor
 is immense1 the former will make you   
pay #gl4 #gs4 for a coat of the best    
cloth1 whilst ,m4 ,courtois only charges
 #ajj francs 7#dl47 for the same        
article1 equal in every respect1 and    
furnishes every other description of    
clothing on equally moderate terms4  ,i 
shall now bid my reader to doff his hat1
 and obtain one that will sit so lightly
 on his brow1 that he will scarcely be  
conscious that his head is covered1 of  
which ,i had experience under           
circumstances rather ludicrous than     
otherwise4 ,i entered a glover's shop   
with my mind ,i suppose occupied with   
divers meditations1 and like a true     
uncourteous ,englishman forgot to take  
off my hat to the ,dame de ,comptoir1 as

 she is styled1 but having obtained what
 ,i sought1 in the act of departing ,i  
took up a hat which was on the counter1 
not dreaming that ,i had already one    
upon my head1 but as ,i was making my   
obeissance to the mistress of the shop1 
she observed1 very archly1 that she     
should have thought ,monsieur might be  
satisfied with having a hat on his head1
 without requiring to have one in his   
hand2 surprised at finding myself       
absolutely committing a robbery1 ,i made
 the best excuses the subject would     
admit1 and retired after having         
furnished a subject of amusement for    
,madame1 for ,monsieur whose hat ,i had 
so illegally appropriated to myself1 and
 to some pretty laughing-looking        
demoiselles who were ensconced behind a 
counter4 ,these aerial hats are to be   
procured of ,m4 ,servas1 ,no4 #fi1 ,rue 
,richelieu1 who is the inventor1 and for
 which he has received a medal from a   
scientific society1 they are of so light
 and elastic a nature1 that they do not 

cause the slightest pressure upon the   
brow1 nor leave that unsightly mark upon
 the forehead1 that is often a great    
annoyance to those gentlemen who object 
to having a stain upon the blanche      
purity of that feature1 and as those who
 are tenacious in that respect must     
naturally be so with regard to the form 
and the material of which their hat is  
composed1 they may rest assured on that 
point they will be suited in those of   
,m4 ,servas1 which have long had an     
acknowledged superiority and celebrity  
on that account1 his establishment      
having for upwards of #cj years been    
famed under the firm of ,coquel and     
,quesnoy1 which by the ingenuity of his 
recent invention he has considerably    
augmented4  ,as ,i am now on a chapter  
devoted to usefulness1 ,i must recommend
 my readers to get well and comfortably 
shod1 particularly if they have any     
intention of visiting the monuments and 
antiquities ,i have described1 for which
 purpose they must procure their shoes  

in ,paris1 the leather being prepared in
 such a manner as to render it          
infinitely more soft and flexible than  
it is in ,england1 consequently one can 
walk twice the distance1 without tiring1
 in ,french shoes1 than one can in      
,english2 hence with the former all the 
tortures of new shoes are never felt1   
being fully as easy as an old pair of   
the latter1 and for this purpose no one 
can better supply the article desired1  
than ,m4 ,deschamps1 ,no4 #ad1 ,galerie 
d',orleans1 ,palais-,royal1 who stands  
so high in the estimation of my         
countrymen1 that he is obliged to go to 
,london twice a year to supply their    
demands4 ,an attention to comfort in    
this respect is to me so essential1 that
 in returning to ,england ,i always     
provide myself with a plentiful stock of
 boots and shoes1 although not to the   
same degree that one of our celebrated  
tragedians practised this precaution1   
having furnished himself with thirty-six
 pair to the no small amusement of the  

,dover custom-house officers when they  
overhauled his luggage4 ,one of the     
great advantages of the ,french shoes is
 that the upper leather never cracks nor
 bursts1 and indeed ,i have not only    
found the material better1 but also the 
workmanship4 ,m4 ,deschamps has acquired
 much celebrity for the very elegant    
manner in which his shoes for balls and 
soirees are executed1 after a system of 
his own1 which have now become the      
fashion in all the saloons in ,paris4   
,perhaps my readers may think ,i have   
devoted too much space to this subject1 
but being a great pedestrian1 it is one 
of peculiar importance1 to me 7and it is
 so natural to judge every one by one's 
self71 and in order to see all the      
interesting little bits of architectural
 antiquity1 which are so numerous in    
,paris1 the visit must be performed on  
foot1 as it is sometimes requisite to go
 into little courts and alleys where no 
carriage can possibly enter2 besides an 
antiquarian must peep and grope about in

 places where a vehicle would only be an
 incumbrance4  ,whilst my memory is on1 
or1 as some people would say1 whilst my 
hand is in1 ,i must not forget to       
recommend the stationer's shop1 ,no4    
#aei1 ,rue ,st4 ,honore1 next door to   
the ,oratoire1 as it is presumable that 
my readers1 who intend to sojourn a     
while at ,paris1 must want to pay some  
visits1 consequently will need visiting 
cards1 with which they will provide     
themselves at the above establishment on
 terms so reasonable as quite to        
surprise a ,londoner2 also the visiter  
must write1 and will here find an       
assortment of sixty different           
descriptions of ,english metal pens of  
,cuthbert's manufacture1 and every      
variety of stationary that can be       
desired1 and the manner in which they   
get up cards and addresses1 with regard 
to the neatness of the engraving1       
printing1 and quality of the card1 is   
really surprising1 for the price2 whilst
 the mistress receives her customers    

with so much politeness1 that having    
been once1 is sure to prove the cause   
for other visits1 when any of the       
articles in which she deals are         
required2 and punctuality in the        
execution of the orders received is a   
quality to be met with in her1 and in   
good truth1 ,i cannot say much for the  
,parisians in general on that score1 and
 one great cause is that they have too  
much business1 and far more than they   
can attend to in a proper manner4  ,in  
the same street1 at ,no4 #daf1 is an    
establishment of which the ,english     
ought to be informed1 being that of ,m4 
,renault1 wherein good cutlery is to be 
obtained at very moderate prices2 there 
is every variety that can be desired1   
either for the table or other purposes1 
all of the finest description2 his shop 
is situated in the quarter most         
convenient for the ,english1 being that 
in which they so frequently reside4  ,as
 health is a desideratum which is       
requisite for the pursuit of every      

occupation1 and particularly for such as
 mean to enjoy ,paris to its full       
extent1 which will require a            
considerable degree of exercise1 ,i must
 recommend the visiter a chymist and    
druggist on whom he may rely1 where he  
may find the means of re-establishing   
any relaxation of strength or other     
malady to which all human nature is ever
 prone4 ,there are innumerable          
establishments of this nature in ,paris1
 and especially of those who announce   
,english medicines1 but the one which ,i
 have understood as possessing such as  
are truly genuine both in ,french and   
,english pharmacy1 is that of ,m4       
,joseau1 and as a testimony of          
confidence in the respectability of his 
establishment1 it has been made the     
chief depository of a medicine entitled 
the ,copahine ,mege1 so particularly    
recommended by the ,royal ,medicine     
,academy of ,france1 who have voted     
their thanks to the author1 and granted 
him a patent for fifteen years1 having  

proved so efficacious where patients    
have by their excesses deteriorated     
their health1 and in fact1 in all cases 
of blennorrhagies4 ,m4 ,joseau may be   
also useful to my countrymen1 who are in
 the habit of riding much on horseback1 
in providing them with belts of his own 
invention1 which are made of ,india     
rubber1 and in general use with the     
,french cavalry4 ,the establishment of  
,m4 ,joseau is situated at ,no4 #afa1   
corner of the ,rue ,montmartre1 and of  
the ,gallery ,montmartre1 ,passage      
,panorama1 where my countrymen will be  
sure of meeting with the most assiduous 
attention1 both from himself and his    
assistants1 and that whatever they may  
require in his department will be of the
 best description1 and at the most      
moderate prices2 ,i know of no business 
whatever in which there is such an      
immense difference in the charges both  
in ,london and ,paris1 that it appears  
to me that chemists and druggists make  
you pay ad libitum1 without having any  

fixed system1 therefore ,i never enter  
any of their shops without ,i have had  
them particularly recommended4  ,before 
,i quit this chapter of shreds and      
patches1 although of solid utility1 a   
very useful establishment must be       
introduced to my readers1 belonging to  
,messrs4 ,danneville1 ,no4 #af1 ,rue    
d',aguesseau1 ,faubourg ,st4 ,honore1   
facing the ,protestant ,chapel1         
consisting of every description of      
earthenware and crockery1 on a very     
extensive scale1 with a very quiet      
exterior1 the premises having more the  
appearance of warehouses than shops2 the
 assortment is quite of a multitudinous 
description1 including vessels of the   
cheapest and most useful nature1 at the 
same time containing numbers of superior
 articles1 wherein extreme taste is     
displayed4 ,the concern has been a long 
time established1 and is quite in the   
centre of the quarter which such numbers
 of ,english choose for their residence2
 the proprietors are civil1 quiet1      

unassuming people1 and their articles   
exceedingly reasonable4     ,,chapter   
,,viii4       ,novel introductions of   
different branches of industry4--,recent
      inventions4--,extensions of       
commerce in various                     
departments4--,establishments of several
 new descriptions of      business1 now 
flourishing1 and formerly unknown4      
,the commerce of ,paris has now extended
 to so vast a scale1 that it has become 
an immense entrepot for all the         
productions and manufactures of ,france2
 the foreign merchant now feels that in 
visiting ,paris he shall there find the 
cheapest1 the choicest1 and the most    
extensive assortment of all that the    
nature of the country1 aided by art1 is 
able to produce2 he is aware that he    
need not repair to ,lyons1 to ,lille1   
,rouen1 or other manufacturing          
districts1 for their respective         
articles1 for which they are famed1 as  
he knows that in the great emporium of  
the ,continent1 all that the ingenuity  

of man can produce will there be found4 
,independent of that advantage1 there   
are many branches of industry confined  
to ,paris1 first invented within its    
walls1 improved1 and wrought to a state 
of perfection1 which is unrivalled in   
any other capital1 and affording employ 
to an immense number of hands1 from the 
multitude of ramifications into which   
these branches diverge2 so that ,paris  
once principally celebrated as a city of
 pleasure and gaiety1 still retaining   
that reputation1 is now also renowned   
for its extraordinary manufactures1 and 
the curious and splendid specimens of   
art and ingenuity emerging from its     
numerous ateliers1 and which would      
require an extent far beyond the limits 
of this work1 to give a just and        
accurate review of their merits2 but    
some there are which being of a nature  
totally novel in the annals of commerce1
 and having merely been introduced      
within the last few years1 we shall     
devote some space to their description  

in order to afford our readers an idea  
of their beauty and utility4  ,amongst  
the various articles of the above       
description1 none perhaps occupy a more 
prominent position for beauty1 taste1   
and ingenuity1 than the extraordinary   
variety displayed in what is termed     
fancy stationary1 the fabrication of    
which is now extended to such a degree1 
as to have become an important branch of
 the commerce of ,paris4 ,its           
introduction is but of recent date1 as  
in the reign of ,charles ,x all the     
paper required for notes1 letters1      
dispatches1 etc41 was procured from     
,england1 on account of its extreme     
superiority over that of ,france2 the   
,court never using any other1 the       
example was followed not only by the    
major part of the ,french nobility1 but 
by all foreigners of distinction who    
happened to be sojourning at ,paris1    
hence the importation of paper from     
,england was to a considerable amount4  
,but when ,louis ,philippe came to the  

throne1 he with his usual policy        
observed1 that paper of ,french         
manufacture was good enough for his     
purposes1 it was therefore adopted at   
the ,court1 and the noblesse and gentry1
 following in the same line1 that       
encouragement was afforded to their     
countrymen1 that engendered the idea of 
rendering their own paper so tasteful   
and elegant that now the affair is quite
 reversed1 and ,england takes from      
,france an immense quantity of this     
beautiful manufacture1 which employs    
even artists of talent for designing the
 elegant and fanciful devices which     
ornament their envelopes1 with their    
enclosures of various sizes and forms1  
in which the arts of drawing1 painting1 
gilding1 stamping1 etc41 combine to     
render them so pretty and so gay1 that  
one feels loath to destroy any of these 
ornamental epistles1 however trifling   
their import2 the subjects of the       
devices are as various as those which   
they are intended to illustrate1        

history1 the heathen mythology1         
religion1 friendship1 a more tender     
passion1 etc41 are all allegorically or 
emblematically represented1 in the fancy
 stationary1 offering the writer the    
means of choosing a subject consistent  
with the text of his letter1 as an      
invitation to dinner is designated by   
paintings of pheasants1 game1 etc41 to a
 soiree dansante1 the note is adorned by
 couples waltzing1 etc41 to a whist     
party1 the cards and players are        
introduced1 and if to tea1 the cups and 
saucers of gilded and glowing hue1      
bedeck the gay margin2 so that before a 
word is written in the letter1 it       
foretells its errand4  ,there are very  
many who have gradually contributed     
their talents to this branch of         
industry1 but it is ,m4 ,marion who may 
be considered the inventor1 he having   
availed himself with the most effect of 
their abilities1 and concentrated their 
respective merits1 in which he has      
displayed much perseverance1 taste1 and 

judgment1 as also in the manner in which
 he has organised this branch of        
commerce1 and promoted its extension4   
,at his establishment at ,no4 #ad1      
,cite-,bergere1 will be found a most    
extensive assortment of fancy           
stationary1 comprehending every         
description of variety that the most    
fertile imagination could depict1 the   
prices of ordinary paper commencing at  
the very humble price of six sheets for 
a sou1 and according to the degree that 
it is ornamented1 gradually rising to   
#be francs a sheet4 ,m4 ,marion has also
 an establishment in ,london1 at ,no4   
#ai1 ,mortimer ,street1 ,cavendish      
,square1 exactly on a similar plan as   
that in ,paris1 containing an equal     
variety of specimens of this new branch 
of art4  ,when the visiter has a half   
hour to spare1 he would not find it     
thrown away in visiting the             
establishment of ,madame ,merckel1 she  
having found the means of applying the  
phosphorus and chemical matches1 which  

she has invented1 to such a number of   
purposes1 and of introducing them in so 
curious and ingenious a manner into     
divers articles1 calculated both for    
utility and ornament1 that her          
manufactory might be considered quite a 
little museum2 amongst a variety of     
pretty things1 ,i was first struck with 
a time-piece which acts as an alarum1   
and not only answers the purpose of     
awakening you at any hour which you may 
desire1 but a little figure representing
 a magician1 at the instant strikes a   
magic mirror1 by which means the taper  
he holds is ignited1 and with all       
possible grace1 he presents you with a  
light just as you open your eyes4 ,a    
night lamp next attracted me1 which     
represented ,mount ,vesuvius1 and the   
means by which it is lighted1 proceeds  
from an enormous dragon emitting fire   
from his throat2 this article is equally
 useful as a paper press4 ,another night
 lamp ,i found particularly elegant1    
though perfectly simple1 consisting     

merely of a gilded branch1 gracefully   
carved into a sort of festoon1 from     
which was suspended a little lamp of    
most classic form4 ,the inkstands       
consist of an indescribable variety1    
displaying all kinds of contrivances1   
some so portable as easily to go into   
the pocket1 and containing instantaneous
 light on touching a spring1 with pens1 
ink1 seal and wax4 ,amongst the endless 
number of paper presses is one with a   
blacksmith1 who1 when light is required1
 strikes the anvil and fire appears2    
abundance of cigar stands with matches  
are arranged after a variety of         
whimsical methods1 some of them very    
tasteful1 and having quite an ornamental
 effect4 ,fortunately1 ,madame ,merckel 
has in a great degree met with the      
reward her ingenuity merits1 receiving  
the greatest encouragement from the     
public1 and not only having had a patent
 granted her to protect her inventions1 
but she has also been presented with    
medals from three scientific ,societies4

 ,as her prices are as various as the   
objects are numerous1 every purse may be
 accommodated1 as there are some as low 
as a sou1 whilst there are others which 
rise as high as twenty pounds1 the      
charge elevating according to the degree
 of ornament or utility4 ,it appears    
surprising that a business which was not
 known until within the last few years  
should have risen to such importance1 as
 ,madame ,merckel not only transmits her
 merchandise to every town in ,france1  
but also to the principal cities        
throughout ,europe4 ,the manufactory is 
,no4 #bd1 ,rue du ,bouloi1 in the ,cour 
des ,fermes2 there is besides a similar 
establishment in ,london1 at ,no4 #cj1  
,edmund ,place1 ,aldersgate ,street1    
which is entirely furnished by ,madame  
,merckel1 possessing the same varied    
assortment1 and undertaking to execute  
the same extent of supply4  ,how very   
simple are some descriptions of         
inventions1 and how very simple one is  
apt to think one's self in not having   

before thought of that which appears so 
trifling and easy when once known4 ,so  
it is with a sort of portable desk1     
invented by ,m4 ,tachet1 for which he   
has procured a patent2 it needs no table
 nor any kind of support1 as the student
 places it under him1 and his own weight
 keeps it perfectly firm and steady2 the
 plane 7on which he writes or draws7    
being attached to the part on which he  
sits1 rises before him1 capable of      
accommodating itself to such elevation  
as may be desired2 its principal utility
 is for sketching from nature1 but as   
females could not make use of this desk 
in the same manner as men1 ,m4 ,tachet  
has also such as are adapted to their   
accommodation1 the base lying on the    
lap1 and fastened by a band round the   
waist1 which keeps it perfectly firm4   
,m4 ,tachet has also devoted much time  
and attention in forming a collection of
 angular and carved pieces of wood1     
shaped and finished with extreme        
neatness1 describing almost every form  

that can well be imagined1 and composed 
of such wood as has been so well        
seasoned that it can never warp1 either 
ebony1 box1 pear-tree1 or indeed of     
every different country which produces  
the hardest woods2 they are particularly
 used by engineers and architects1 for  
drawing plans or elevations of          
buildings1 as every curve or angle of   
any dimensions which can be required1   
may be traced by these curved and       
angular rulers4 ,in ,french1 on account 
of the form resembling that of a pistol1
 the curved pieces are called pistolet1 
which comprehends a complete set1 and   
great demands for them come from        
,england4 ,at the establishment of ,m4  
,tachet will also be found almost every 
article that is required by the artist1 
and it is in fact the only house in     
,paris where there is any certainty of  
procuring real ,english colours1 as     
there are so many counterfeits of them  
exposed in almost all the colour-shops  
in ,paris1 with the names and arms upon 

them of some of the most eminent        
,english colour manufacturers4 ,but ,i  
can assure my countrymen that those they
 obtain from ,m4 ,tachet are genuine1   
and that they may deal with him in the  
same confidence as they would with what 
we call a true ,englishman2 he has      
likewise a most complete collection of  
mathematical instruments2 his shop is   
situated at ,no4 #bgd1 ,rue ,st4        
,honore1 at the bottom of the           
court-yard1 and although it has not so  
brilliant an appearance as many         
establishments of the same nature1 it is
 not the worse for its quiet exterior1  
but on the contrary1 the same articles  
will be found with him at a more        
moderate charge than they ever can be   
procured of his dashing rivals4         
,another branch of industry which has   
risen into extreme importance latterly  
is that of producing such exquisitely   
beautiful objects in cut glass1 for     
which the establishment of ,messrs4     
,lahoche-,boin and ,comp4 has for many  

years been celebrated1 and ever         
conspicuous on account of its glass     
staircase1 but ,i should be afraid to   
trust myself with beginning to describe 
the multitude of tasteful and elegant   
articles assembled in this exhibition   
7for it is really much more worthy of   
being so called than many that bear the 
name71 lest ,i should be inveigled into 
too much prolixity4 ,into many of their 
richly wrought services of glass1 gold  
is so happily introduced1 that the two  
brilliant substances seem to sparkle in 
rivalry of each other1 and the deeper   
tone of bronze sometimes lends its aid  
and heightens the effect of both4 ,glass
 is now appropriated to a variety of    
purposes1 formerly never thought of1 as 
balustrades1 the handles of locks and   
plates to doors1 instead of brass1 and a
 number of other objects2 indeed from   
this establishment there is always      
emanating something new1 and for the    
beauty of the works which they displayed
 at a national exhibition of specimens  

of art and industry1 they were awarded  
the gold medal4 ,amongst other articles 
which attract the attention in their    
splendid collection1 are some of the    
most magnificent china vases1 painted by
 talented artists in that department1   
also services of ,sevres porcelain for  
the table1 in the taste of times past2  
others of glass1 gilded and elaborately 
carved1 which style was also much in    
vogue with our ancestors2 some likewise 
of a more simple description but always 
possessing a degree of elegance which   
excites admiration4 ,the proprietors of 
this concern are merchants of           
respectability1 and besides furnishing  
the ,royal ,family of ,france1 and      
several of the courts of ,europe1 they  
have transactions with most parts of the
 world1 charging themselves with the    
execution of orders for any country1 and
 requiring the remuneration of a very   
moderate commission4 ,the establishment 
of ,messrs4 ,lahoche-,boin and ,comp4 is
 at ,nos4 #aeb1 #aec1 ,palais-,royal1   

and the carriage entrance1 ,no4 #ai1    
,rue de ,valois4 ,this is one of those  
houses in ,paris 7of which doubtless    
there are many7 where the stranger may  
feel every confidence that he will meet 
with none but the most honourable       
treatment4  ,for those of my countrymen 
who like to proceed to the fountain     
head1 and obtain articles from the      
manufacturer himself1 instead of        
purchasing them of the shopkeeper who   
vends them at a higher price1 ,i would  
recommend a visit to the establishment  
of ,m4 ,vincent1 which is in fact like a
 little town1 the number of warehouses1 
workshops1 offices1 etc41 on the        
premises1 amounting to no less than #hd4
 ,in this manufactory an endless variety
 of articles are produced1 consisting of
 every description of knick-knackery1 if
 ,i may be allowed the term1 as         
snuff-boxes1 cigar-cases1 memorandum    
books1 souvenirs1 bon-bon boxes1        
tablets1 tooth-picks1 card and          
needle-cases1 pocket mirrors1           

housewives1 paper presses1 port-crayons1
 rulers1 seals1 musical snuff-boxes1    
etc41 etc4 ,the above articles being    
executed in every possible variety that 
can be imagined1 of tortoise-shell1     
ivory1 or mother of pearl1 inlaid with  
gold and silver in the richest and most 
elaborate manner1 miniature frames of   
every description1 composed of fancy    
woods1 with chased circles1 metal gilt1 
stamped tortoise-shell1 bronze and of   
every sort of material adapted for the  
purpose1 albums and pocket-books in     
great variety1 dressing-cases both for  
ladies and gentlemen1 tea caddies1      
work-boxes1 and an infinity of articles 
too numerous to recapitulate1 for some  
of which patents have been obtained4 ,it
 is from this establishment that most of
 the showy shops in ,paris1 who deal in 
articles of the same nature1 are        
provided1 hence much economy is effected
 by purchasing of ,m4 ,vincent1 the     
profit of the shopkeeper being saved by 
procuring the object from the           

manufacturer4 ,tradesmen who come to    
,paris from ,london1 would find their   
interest in applying to this            
establishment1 where they could obtain  
the goods they require of the           
descriptions stated1 at considerably    
more advantageous terms than from other 
quarters4 ,i will cite one article which
 will prove how very low are the charges
 compared to what we are accustomed to  
in ,london2 the musical mechanism of a  
snuff-box1 #aj francs 7eight shillings7 
playing two airs1 rising gradually in   
price to #ij francs1 or about #cl4 #abs4
 playing six tunes1 which of course can 
be afterwards set in any description of 
box which the purchaser chooses1 of     
gold1 silver1 or tortoise-shell1 as     
fancy directs4 ,all other articles sold 
by ,m4 ,vincent are equally reasonable4 
,his residence is ,no4 #d1 ,rue de      
,beauce1 at the corner of the ,rue de   
,bretagne1 near the ,temple1 certainly  
not in a very desirable neighbourhood1  
but manufactories are seldom carried on 

in the most agreeable vicinities4  ,an  
art which has been recently brought to  
an astonishing degree of perfection in  
,paris1 is that of dyeing1 cleaning1    
scouring1 and restoring almost all      
descriptions of habiliments2 this has   
been effected by ,m4 ,bonneau1 but not  
until he had visited the principal      
manufacturing towns1 and had passed many
 years in studying the art              
scientifically1 aided by persevering    
researches into the depths of chymistry1
 to which he is indebted for being able 
to perform that which has not until now 
been accomplished4 ,i have seen         
instances of a soiled1 faded1 cashmere  
shawl1 almost considered beyond         
redemption1 committed to his charge1 and
 reappear so resuscitated that the      
owners could scarcely believe it was the
 same dingy1 deplorable-looking affair  
they had sent a fortnight before4 ,the  
same power of restoring is effected upon
 all descriptions of satin1 even that of
 the purest white1 which1 although so   

soiled as to be of a dirty yellow       
colour1 is brought forth perfectly clean
 and with all its original lustre2 with 
silks1 merinos1 gros de ,naples of the  
tenderest tints1 the process adopted is 
equally successful2 blonde1 guipure1 and
 all descriptions of lace1 no matter how
 discoloured1 are restored to their     
original whiteness4 ,with the apparel of
 men1 the same advantages are obtained1 
silk1 cashmere1 velvet1 and other       
waistcoats that many would throw aside  
as totally spoiled1 or too shabby to be 
worn any longer1 by being sent to ,m4   
,bonneau1 are returned1 having the      
appearance of being quite new4 ,his     
establishment1 at ,no4 #ag1 ,rue        
,lepelletier1 just facing the ,french   
,opera1 is well known to many ,english  
families2 but having heard so much of   
the wonders he performed in reviving the
 lost colours of the elaborate borders  
of ladies' cashmeres1 and rendering them
 their pristine brilliance1 ,i          
determined to visit his premises1 upon  

which he carried on his operations1 in  
the ,rue de ,bondy1 ,no4 #dj4 ,i there  
found everything conducted upon a most  
methodical system of regularity and     
order1 each room was appropriated to its
 peculiar department1 and heated and    
ventilated by a certain process1 and    
that which does ,m4 ,bonneau much       
honour1 is1 that all is so arranged1    
with the utmost consideration for the   
health of his work-people1 by taking    
care that they shall be kept as dry as  
possible1 and that a proper degree of   
warmth and air shall be admitted into   
every chamber4 ,when required1 ,m4      
,bonneau sends his men to clean         
furniture at persons' houses1 which     
would be rather incommodious to remove4 
,when any article is sent to him1 the   
bearer is informed what day it will be  
completed1 and is sure not to be        
deceived1 and he has an apartment so    
arranged for preserving whatever is     
confided to him1 from any injury which  
might be caused by moths or other       

insects4  ,amongst those articles for   
which ,france used to depend upon       
,england1 but wherein the case is       
reversed by ,england taking from        
,france1 is that of pencil-cases1 in    
which small pieces of lead are inserted1
 and emitted or withdrawn at pleasure2  
numbers of these formerly were sent from
 ,london and ,birmingham to ,paris1 but 
recently ,m4 ,riottot has invented and  
obtained a patent for a pencil-case     
which has a little elastic tube of      
tempered steel placed at the end which  
is used1 and into which the lead is     
inserted1 and tightly held within it1 so
 that there is no risk of breaking1     
either in the act of fixing in the lead1
 or from its afterwards shaking1 the    
steel tube operating as a spring1       
retains it so firmly that it remains1   
even whilst writing with it1 perfectly  
immoveable2 these are arranged in gold  
or silver cases1 more or less ornamental
 as may be required1 and are found so   
infinitely more serviceable than those  

on the former principle1 that as they   
are becoming more known in ,england1 the
 demand for them continues to increase4 
,the term by which they are designated1 
is ,porte ,crayon a ,pince elastique2   
their advantages are such as tend to    
economy1 as they are neither liable to  
fall out nor break1 besides the         
convenience of their never moving about 
whilst one is using them1 to which the  
previous system was constantly liable4  
,m4 ,riottot has also an assortment of  
pens and pen-holders1 either plated or  
of silver or gold1 richly chased or     
simple1 with a variety of seals and     
other articles2 he likewise retains a   
stock of lead1 properly prepared for    
inserting into the pencil-cases4 ,his   
address is at ,no4 #bg1 ,rue            
,phelippeaux1 ,passage de la ,marmite1  
,escalier ,a1 completely in the quarter 
of ,paris inhabited by the operatives1  
surrounded by workshops of different    
descriptions1 not exactly calculated for
 very delicate ladies4  ,for the benefit

 of a little purer air1 we will quit the
 working mechanics' rendez-vous1 and    
take a lounge in the ,palais-,royal1 and
 as soon as we breathe a little freely1 
we will examine the engraved seals of   
,m4 ,leteurtre-,maurisset1 ,no4 #cc1    
,galerie d',orleans1 which1 from the    
extreme delicacy of the execution1 are  
objects well worth attention2 his       
talents in this department have obtained
 him the distinction of being engraver  
to the ,chamber of ,deputies and to the 
royal museums2 some of his specimens of 
armorial bearings1 his designs for      
stamping impressions1 in relief and     
heraldric devices1 are extremely clever2
 he engraves on stones of different     
descriptions1 with equal accuracy and on
 any kind of metal1 as plates for       
visiting cards1 etc41 and whatever he   
undertakes he executes in the most      
perfect manner1 that the nature of the  
work will admit4 ,as he is attached to  
his profession1 however trifling the    
order he may receive1 he enters into it 

with the same zest as if it were of the 
first importance1 of course it is       
engraving subjects for seals in which he
 finds the most pleasure1 as it is in   
those that he has the greatest scope for
 the display of his abilities1 and      
seldom fails to excel4  ,although the   
progress which ,france has made in      
almost every branch of industry is most 
extraordinary1 yet none is so striking  
as the advance which has been effected  
in cutlery1 as ,i well remember when ,i 
first came to ,france1 it was a common  
joke amongst the ,english1 when speaking
 of the rarity of an object1 to observe 
that it was as scarce as a knife in     
,france that would cut1 its appearance  
also was as dull as its edge1 soon      
however their cutlery1 with their ideas1
 began to brighten1 and to sharpen2 but 
even as recently as #ahcj1 they were    
still so outshone by ,england1 that if  
it was known that you were going from   
,paris to ,london1 with the intention of
 returning1 every lady asked you to     

bring her a pair of scissors1 every man 
a pair of razors1 and by all medical    
friends you were assailed to bring them 
over lancets or other machines for      
cutting and maiming human flesh2 thanks 
to the genius1 talents1 and perseverance
 of ,m4 ,charriere1 one is no longer    
troubled with such commissions1 he      
having improved every description of    
surgical instruments to such a degree of
 perfection1 that now many of our       
,english surgeons provide themselves    
from his establishment on returning to  
,england2 not only has ,m4 ,charriere   
produced every variety of instrument    
used by our faculty1 but he has invented
 several others1 which have merited and 
obtained the thanks of his country1 with
 letters and medals from several        
scientific societies4 ,even foreigners  
from all parts of ,europe1 from         
,america1 and from the ,east1 are now   
becoming acquainted with the utility of 
his inventions1 which are already well  
known in ,london and ,edinburgh1 and    

will soon be as much in demand in       
,england as they are now in ,france4    
,some idea may be formed of how far ,m4 
,charriere has raised this branch of    
industry1 when it is stated that but a  
few years since1 the whole number of    
workmen occupied in this department was 
but #cj and now he alone employs #aej6  
,m4 ,charriere in fact possesses one    
quality which generally ensures success1
 a passion for his art2 he is not to be 
regarded simply as a vender of cutlery1 
but as one possessing a scientific      
knowledge of his profession1 and as a   
mechanic of considerable talent4 ,to    
recapitulate all his inventions1 with   
their respective merits1 and the        
approbatory letters that he has received
 from different academical institutions1
 would half fill my little volume2      
suffice it to say that he is the only   
person in his business1 to whom has ever
 been awarded the gold medal2 besides   
which1 the ,royal ,academy of ,sciences 
have presented him with #ahjj francs1   

for the improvement he has effected in  
surgical instruments4 ,there is scarcely
 a disease and certainly not a single   
operation that can be performed on the  
human frame1 for which ,m4 ,charriere   
has not the requisite materials in the  
utmost perfection1 even for the         
fabrication of artificial noses2 and for
 one invention he merits the gratitude  
of all mothers1 the biberon1 a machine  
for the purpose of supplying an infant  
with milk1 when circumstances prevent   
the mother from affording that          
nourishment4 ,this instrument is so     
contrived that the part which meets the 
lips is in point of texture exactly the 
same as that which nature provides1     
uniting an equal degree of softness and 
elasticity1 that the child takes to the 
substitute1 with the same zest as if it 
were the reality4 ,i have known         
instances where the lives of children   
have been saved by this machine1 the    
parents declaring to me that such was   
the case1 and that they considered that 

every mother ought to be provided with  
so useful an instrument4 ,the address of
 ,m4 ,charriere is ,no4 #i1 ,rue de     
l',ecole-de-,medecine4 ,a variety of    
cutlery is kept of as perfect a         
description as those articles for which 
he has attained so high a celebrity4    
,it has generally in modern days been a 
reproach to ,france1 that she has been  
rather lax in regard of religious       
matters2 what there may be in the hearts
 of the inhabitants of that or other    
countries ,i shall not presume to give  
an opinion1 but can only say that ,i    
find the churches in ,paris1 both       
protestant and catholic1 always during  
service time nearly full1 and many to   
overflowing4 ,not only that1 but the    
,french are much attached to holy       
associations1 hence the prints of our   
,saviour1 the ,virgin1 and the ,saints1 
have a most inexhaustible sale2 ,i need 
give my readers no greater proof than   
recommending them to visit the          
establishment of ,m4 ,dopter1 ,no4 #ba1 

,rue ,st4 ,jacques1 they will there find
 amongst his immense collection of      
engravings and lithographies1 the       
portrait of every saint that ever was   
heard of1 an innumerable variety of     
religious subjects for which there is a 
most extensive and incessant demand4    
,some of these are stamped and          
illuminated in a most splendid manner1  
and ,i verily believe there is scarcely 
a subject connected with the christian  
religion1 of which ,m4 ,dopter has not a
 representation2 his establishment is   
therefore known throughout all ,france1 
and many parts of ,europe1 to which he  
transmits numbers of his publications4  
,he likewise has a most useful          
assortment of maps and geographical     
illustrations1 with portraits of        
celebrated characters1 particularly     
those connected with the campaigns and  
adventures of ,napoleon1 as also his    
battles1 and remarkable events of his   
life1 as well as a great diversity of   
historical subjects1 landscapes1        

academical studies1 etc41 etc42 ,m4     
,dopter is also the inventor of the new 
style of covers for binding1 of which   
the present volume is a specimen1 having
 them of an innumerable variety of      
patterns1 and of every size likely to be
 demanded4  ,it has often struck me that
 maps were very incomplete1 in          
consequence of their not being capable  
of giving the degrees of elevation of   
hills or mountains except in a very     
inefficient manner2 the same idea1 ,i   
suppose1 actuated ,m4 ,bauerkeller1 and 
induced him to invent those maps in     
relief1 which are now becoming so       
generally demanded1 as giving such an   
accurate illustration of the surface of 
a country1 which is most beautifully    
exemplified in many of his specimens1   
but most particularly in that of        
,switzerland2 every object having a     
degree of elevation proportioned to the 
reality1 and coloured in a great measure
 similar to the subject intended to be  
represented1 thus the snow-capped       

mountains of ,switzerland have their    
white summits distinctly expressed1     
their blue lakes1 their green meadows1  
grey rocks1 etc41 given with such       
fidelity1 that a person obtains a most  
perfect notion of regions he may never  
have an opportunity to visit4 ,this     
system of forming maps or plans upon    
embossed paper1 is peculiarly applicable
 to cities1 as the public buildings     
appear to such advantage1 and ,m4       
,bauerkeller has already executed those 
of ,london1 ,paris1 ,st4 ,petersburg1   
,vienna1 ,new ,york1 the city of        
,mexico1 ,hamburg1 ,basle1 a ,panorama  
of the ,rhine from ,coblentz to         
,mayence1 besides several other cities  
and countries1 and there is no doubt    
that in a short time the whole of       
,europe and many other distant districts
 will be illustrated in the same manner1
 as he is constantly adding to his      
collection which already excites the    
highest interest4 ,m4 ,bauerkeller's    
plan of executing charts1 maps1 or views

 in relief1 can be equally produced     
either upon velvet1 silk1 or leather1   
for the illustration of a diversity of  
subjects which can be applied to an     
innumerable variety of purposes1 as     
shades for lamps1 men's caps1 slippers1 
reticules1 stands for decanters1        
screens1 etc41 etc42 already he has     
extended his connexions to such a degree
 that he receives applications from all 
parts of ,europe and ,america for       
different articles in which his         
invention is introduced4 ,some of his   
works which were displayed at the       
national exhibition excited universal   
admiration1 and obtained him a medal2 he
 has also been granted a patent for     
fifteen years4 ,this invention is not   
only valuable in having rendered maps   
more ornamental1 but it assists the     
study of geography2 by the objects being
 rendered so much more distinct1 it     
increases the interest and consequently 
makes a deeper impression on the memory2
 in fact1 the numerous advantages to be 

derived from this system of giving plans
 in relief may be easily imagined1 but  
are too long to be described4 ,a        
specimen of the art will be found at the
 beginning of this work3 ,m4            
,bauerkeller's address is ,no4 #chj1    
,rue ,st4 ,denis1 ,passage ,lemoine4    
,amongst the number of inventions which 
are constantly emanating from the brain 
of man1 ,i know of few which unite more 
ingenuity1 utility1 and simplicity than 
that of ,m4 ,martin 7gun-maker at ,no4  
#cf1 ,rue ,phelippeaux71 relative to the
 improvement of every description of gun
 that is impelled by percussion4        
,according to the system he has         
introduced1 and for which he has        
obtained a patent1 all the inconvenience
 to which the sportsman is subjected in 
priming is entirely obviated1 as instead
 of having to place the percussion cap  
with one's fingers1 so disagreeable in  
very cold weather1 it is at once        
effected by the act of cocking1 and the 
gun may be fired from #hj to #ajj times1

 always as it were priming itself1 as   
the number of percussion caps required  
are introduced through the butt1 and    
conducted to the point desired4 ,the    
method of inserting the percussion caps 
is perfectly easy2 pressing a little    
button or nut at the bottom of the butt 
causes a plate to open1 when two spiral 
wire-springs must be taken out1 as also 
a moveable tube1 from the interior of   
the gun1 and the latter filled with     
percussion caps1 which must be poured   
into fixed tubes which communicate with 
the anvil2 they may contain from #dj to 
#ej each2 when this number is introduced
 replace the spiral wire-springs which  
press the percussion caps exactly1      
regularly and successively as they are  
needed to the point desired1 then fasten
 in the springs with the little hook    
attached for that purpose1 lastly       
replace the moveable tube and shut the  
plate at the bottom of the butt4 ,this  
process is executed in a far shorter    
time than it can be described4 ,the     

immense advantage of this invention may 
not appear at the first view2 but when  
it is considered how much more rapid may
 be the fire of an army in consequence  
of the time gained1 which would be      
occupied in priming1 the power it will  
give them over an enemy must be evident1
 and there is no doubt but that in a    
very short time they will be universally
 adopted4 ,all such of my countrymen who
 come to ,paris ,i would recommend to   
call on ,m4 ,martin2 he will give them  
every possible explanation on the       
subject in the most obliging manner1 and
 also give them practical evidence of   
the manner in which it operates4        
,however deficient the ,french were     
until a very few years since in almost  
every thing which relates to mechanics1 
yet in some articles they have now made 
such rapid strides1 that it becomes a   
question whether they will not surpass  
us1 if we do not exert the same energy  
in the spirit of improvement with which 
they have been recently actuated4       

,formerly the inferiority of ,french    
pianos to ours was most evident1 and    
perhaps1 generally speaking1 ,i should  
still say it was the case1 but there are
 a few manufacturers1 the tone of whose 
instruments is superb2 of such a        
description are those of ,m4 ,soufleto4 
,it is really surprising how he has been
 enabled1 in a small upright piano1 to  
produce the force and depth of tone     
which he has found the means of uniting 
in comparatively so small a volume1 the 
bass having absolutely the power and    
roundness of an organ2 but that part of 
an instrument which most frequently     
fails1 is that which is composed of the 
additional keys or the highest notes1   
which are apt to be thin and wiry1 but  
with ,mr4 ,soufleto's pianos it is not  
the case1 the tone being soft and full1 
with a proportionate degree of force    
with the rest of the instrument4 ,his   
merit has been duly acknowledged1 having
 not only received the ,king's patent1  
but having been twice presented with    

medals1 and appointed manufacturer to   
the ,queen4 ,as most ,english families  
who come to ,paris for the purpose of   
residing or sojourning for a certain    
time1 are desirous of hiring or         
purchasing a good piano1 ,i can assure  
them that such they will find at ,m4    
,soufleto's1 ,no4 #aga1 ,rue            
,montmartre1 and that his terms are     
extremely moderate in consideration of  
the excellence of his instruments4  ,i  
am sure my readers will approve of my   
directing their attention to the        
establishment of ,m4 ,richond1 styled   
the ,phoenix1 ,no4 #ag1 ,boulevard      
,montmartre1 near the ,rue ,richelieu4  
,they will there find such a splendid   
assortment of time-pieces1 as           
constitutes a most beautiful sight1     
equally gratifying to the artist and the
 amateur1 many of the subjects being    
perfectly classic1 and exhibiting the   
tastes and costumes of different ages2  
some of these magnificent time-pieces   
are adorned with figures1 either bronze 

or gilded1 representing historical      
characters1 after the designs of the    
first masters1 which are most admirably 
executed1 and indeed there is such a    
variety of subjects1 that one might pass
 hours in the shop1 deriving the        
greatest pleasure from the examination  
of so many interesting subjects4 ,it is 
also a satisfaction to know that the    
works of ,m4 ,richond's time-pieces are 
equal to their external beauty4 ,in fact
 it is a house that has been long       
established and has ever supported a    
good name1 having a considerable        
connexion1 not only throughout ,france1 
but in foreign countries1 particularly  
with ,england1 and is by far the most   
recommendable of any in ,paris in that  
line of business4 ,every object has the 
price marked upon it1 which is always   
adhered to1 and the charges are as      
moderate as could possibly be expected  
from the superiority of the articles    
over those which are sold in so many    
other shops in ,paris2 some time-pieces 

there are which of course amount to a   
high price1 consistent with their       
splendour4 ,there is a stamp fixed by   
government upon the internal works of   
each time-piece1 to prove that it is    
verified as being of the best quality4  
,m4 ,richond undertakes1 at his own     
risk1 the conveyance of time-pieces to  
,london which have been purchased at his
 shop1 and warrants them against any    
accident which may happen to the works  
in travelling1 having a correspondent in
 ,london who is in the same business1   
and is commissioned to execute any      
repairs which may be requisite4         
,amongst other branches of industry     
which now have risen into considerable  
importance1 is one which at present     
constitutes an extensive business of    
itself1 although formerly only          
considered as a minor department of     
different concerns2 that to which ,i    
allude is what the ,french term         
chemisier1 which ,i can translate no    
otherwise than shirt-maker4 ,there are  

now many following this business in     
,paris1 but the largest establishment1  
and from which many others spring1 is   
that of ,m4 ,demarne1 ,no4 #ci1 ,rue    
,croix-des-,petits-,champs1 and he has  
so exerted his ingenuity in this        
peculiar line that he has obtained a    
patent for the perfection to which he   
has elevated it2 he has been twice      
honourably mentioned in the reports     
published of two national exhibitions in
 which he had specimens of his works4   
,his fame has already travelled         
throughout the ,continent1 and he is    
patronised by the princes of several    
courts of ,europe1 amongst others       
,prince ,ernest of ,cobourg1 and        
noticing the names of several of the    
,english nobility1 in a list which he   
showed me to prove the encouragement he 
received from my compatriots1 ,i        
remarked that of a noble lord of        
sporting notoriety whose shirts were at 
the price of only #aej fr4 7#fl47 each4 
,however1 it must not be supposed that  

,m4 ,demarne is dearer than other       
people1 the price of all his articles   
are proportioned to the nature of the   
materials of which they are composed1   
and many are at the most moderate       
charges4 ,at his extensive establishment
 will also be found an assortment of    
shirt collars1 cravats1 braces1 silk    
handkerchiefs1 etc41 etc41 arranged     
according to the prevailing fashions4   
,one of the most curious1 ingenious and 
incomprehensible inventions of any ,i   
have seen is that of ,m4 ,paris1        
coiffeur to the ,princes and            
,princesses1 #be1 ,passage ,choiseul1   
and #bb1 ,rue ,dalayrac1 near the new   
,italian ,theatre1 relating to all      
descriptions of false hair1 which he    
contrives to arrange in such a manner   
that the skin of the head is seen       
through where the hair is parted1 and   
the roots represented as springing from 
the head in so natural a manner1 that   
the deception cannot be discerned even  
on the closest inspection2 the extreme  

delicacy of the work in these fronts and
 toupies is really inimitable1 a person 
may put one on the back of their hand1  
and the division appears so transparent 
that the skin is seen under it as clear 
as if not a single hair crossed it1 and 
yet by some invisible means the parts   
are held together1 which can only be by 
light transparent hairs which are not   
discernible to the naked eye4 ,he has   
obtained a patent for this invention1   
and although ,i know my countrywomen    
have generally very fine heads of hair1 
yet as from fevers or other causes they 
are sometimes deprived of it1 also that 
grey hairs will intrude1 ,i cannot too  
strongly recommend them to patronise the
 talents of ,m4 ,paris1 and which under 
similar circumstances will be found     
equally serviceable to gentlemen4       
,whilst dilating upon different         
inventions which either contribute to   
comfort or convenience1 ,i must not omit
 that of ,m4 ,cazal1 who has obtained   
two patents1 and medals for the         

umbrellas and parasols he has invented1 
with which he furnishes the ,queen and  
,princesses1 and which are entirely     
superseding all those of any other      
construction4 ,in such as ,m4 ,cazal has
 brought into vogue1 instead of the     
catches or springs which retain the     
umbrella when open or shut1 being       
inserted in the stick1 which always     
contributes towards weakening it1 they  
are attached to the wire frame-work1 and
 by merely touching a little button will
 slide up or down as required with the  
greatest facility1 without those little 
annoyances which so frequently happen in
 the old method1 of either pinching     
one's fingers1 or the glove catching in 
the spring1 or the latter breaking or   
losing its elasticity1 etc41 etc4 ,the  
stick by this system1 it must also be   
observed1 is stronger1 therefore can if 
desired be thinner1 and consequently    
lighter4 ,another description1 called   
travelling umbrellas1 is also invented  
by ,m4 ,cazal and is particularly       

convenient1 containing a cane inside the
 stick1 by which it may be used as one  
or as the other1 according as the       
weather or caprice may require2 these   
are extremely desirable for lame persons
 who require a stick1 as the umbrella   
when closed answers the purpose1 and if 
required to be opened the cane drawing  
out equally affords support4 ,m4 ,cazal 
has an assortment of canes and whips the
 most varied that can be imagined2 it   
would be difficult to fancy any pattern 
or form that is not to be found in his  
numerous collection4 ,his establishment 
is ,no4 #bc1 ,boulevard ,italien1 where 
there is always some one in attendance  
who speaks ,english4 ,whilst so near1 ,i
 cannot resist mentioning so respectable
 a tradesman as ,m4 ,froge1 tailor1 with
 whom the fashionable ,englishmen       
sojourning at ,paris have dealt for     
above twenty years1 and ever found him  
so honourable in his transactions that  
they still continue to afford him their 
patronage2 his address is ,no4 #c1      

,boulevard des ,capucines4     ,,chapter
 ,,ix4       ,to the ladies4   ,as ,i   
have set out with professing to render  
my work of as much utility as possible1 
,i am desirous of giving my fair        
countrywomen the benefit of my own      
experience in ,paris1 by indicating to  
them those establishments wherein they  
may abstract a portion of the contents  
of their purse1 without having cause to 
think that it has been recklessly       
dissipated1 as no one more than myself  
would regret to see their glittering    
money fly like chaff before the wind1 so
 am ,i extremely tenacious that they    
should only barter it for its full      
value1 and as ,i know ladies must and   
will have perfumes1 however superfluous 
in most instances1 for it is but adding 
sweets to the sweets1 ,i shall conduct  
them to the emporium of delicious       
odours1 appertaining to ,m4 ,blanche1   
whose dealings ,i can assure them are as
 pure as his name2 he has besides the   
merit of being an excellent chymist1 and

 the still greater merit of having      
devoted his talents to the fair sex1 and
 in that point which they appreciate    
most highly1 the embellishment and      
preservation of their personal          
attractions2 he has therefore invented a
 peculiar description of vegetable soap1
 called ,savon ,vegetal de ,guimauve1   
which is so renowned amongst the ,paris 
belles1 that ,i should not be surprised 
at their forming themselves into a      
committee1 and voting an address of     
thanks to ,m4 ,blanche for the signal   
services he has rendered to the cause of
 beauty1 as not only are the medicinal  
powers attributed to this savon1 of     
removing any impurities and softening   
the skin1 but also that of giving it a  
smooth satiny lustre1 which may be      
compared to adding the last coup de     
grace to the female charms4 ,in addition
 to these advantages it possesses that  
of having the most agreeable scent2 its 
merits have in fact obtained it a patent
 and it is only sold at the             

establishment of ,m4 ,blanche1 ,no4 #dh1
 ,passage ,choiseul1 where also may be  
procured every description of perfumery 
and a variety of other articles1 all    
good of their kind1 as the proprietor   
would consider the vending of an        
inferior quality as a stain upon his    
character and upon his fair name4       
,formerly the ,english ladies were very 
sharp and pointed in their reflexions   
upon ,french needles1 much more so      
indeed than the objects to which their  
sarcasms were directed1 which in fact   
were but blunt and brittle ware1 and the
 consequence was that they not only     
tried all their own little arts to      
smuggle over as many as they could when 
they came from ,england1 but they       
exacted the same pecadillo from their   
unfortunate friends2 now of all things  
,i most hate smuggling1 principally ,i  
admit from the fear of being caught2    
which ,i think excessively disagreeable4
 ,judge then how rejoiced ,i was when   
informed by some of my fair friends that

 there were as good needles to be had at
 the ,maison ,bierri1 a la ,ville de    
,lille1 #cb1 ,faubourg ,st4 ,honore1 as 
any that could be procured in ,london1  
and one respectable matron insisted that
 it was a moral duty incumbent upon me  
to mention an establishment so          
exceedingly useful to my countrywomen1  
not only because it contains so many    
articles which females are constantly   
requiring1 but that every thing they    
have is of so superior a quality2 in    
fact nothing would satisfy the good lady
 but my going myself to see how it was  
crowded with purchasers4  ,i obeyed1 and
 in good truth found the shop quite like
 a fair1 but the most perfect order and 
arrangement prevailing1 the proprietor  
constantly upon the watch to see that   
the young people were civil and         
attentive to the customers1 who were    
purchasing a variety of articles and    
particularly ribbands2 of which there   
appeared a most brilliant assortment1   
and ,i heard it observed that in that   

department the ,maison ,bierri had a    
celebrity unique4 ,there were also as   
great diversity of fringe1 net1 blonde1 
muslin1 mercery1 lace1 jaconas1 linings1
 worsteds1 all kinds of haberdashery1   
etc41 etc4 ,i also remarked that in     
every drawer1 containing the different  
articles which were produced1 the prices
 were marked1 so that in case of the    
least demur regarding the charge1 a     
reference to the label decides the      
affair4 ,by the excellence of his goods1
 the regular system upon which the      
business is conducted1 and the assiduity
 of all concerned in the ,maison        
,bierri1 he has attracted numbers of the
 ,english1 and amongst the rest the     
,ambassadress1 and there is always some 
person attending who speaks their       
language4 ,in the exterior there is no  
attempt at display2 like many of the    
most respectable establishments1 it     
depends so entirely on its extensive    
connexions1 as not to need any efforts  
to promote publicity1 and every one     

residing at ,paris must have heard of   
the reputation of the ,maison ,bierri2  
it is particularly convenient for the   
,english1 being in the quarter in which 
they mostly dwell4  ,as there is no     
department of the toilet by which ladies
 either so disfigure or embellish       
themselves1 as the hat1 bonnet1 or cap1 
,i must beseech my fair countrywomen to 
procure those articles from such persons
 alone who have as it were obtained a   
diploma for good taste2 as ,i am most   
anxious that when ,englishwomen are in  
,france1 that they should in every      
respect appear to the best advantage2   
now as ,i consider that which adorns the
 head as having so important a bearing  
upon the beauty of a female1 deep and   
frequent were my cogitations upon the   
subject1 before ,i could make up my mind
 what modiste ,i should recommend to the
 patronage of my countrywomen1 as ,i    
would not have the sin upon my head1 for
 all the mines of ,golconda1 of having  
been accessary to an ,englishwoman      

putting on a hat or bonnet that did not 
become her2 therefore1 after mature     
deliberation1 ,i determined to call a   
council of all my female acquaintances1 
and beg of them to hold a debate upon   
this knotty point2 the result was most  
satisfactory1 the question being carried
 without a division1 in fact there was  
not one dissentient voice1 the name of  
,madame de ,barenne being pronounced by 
one and all at the same moment2 it being
 observed that there were several       
persons who had attained a certain      
degree of celebrity as modistes1 but for
 uniting grace1 elegance and simplicity 
with an artistical gusto1 there were    
none in ,paris who surpassed ,madame de 
,barenne 7#ad place ,vendome74 ,i have  
before alluded to this lady1 and        
certainly have observed that her        
manners1 her apartments1 and every thing
 around her has an air distingue1 and   
although ,i would never have the        
presumption of giving an opinion upon   
articles so far above my judgment1 yet  

,i can record the opinion of those who  
are considered true connaisseurs1 from  
whom ,i learn that at ,madame de        
,barenne's1 hats1 bonnets1 caps1 and    
turbans1 of every variety1 are arranged 
with the utmost perfection1 the         
materials being of the most superior    
description consistent with the season  
of the year1 adorned with marabouts1    
bird of paradise feathers1 aigrettes1   
flowers from the celebrated ,constantin1
 all selected from those houses which   
have the most renown for the respective 
articles in which they deal1 but which  
are introduced with so much taste and   
judgment1 that besides her ingenuity1   
having obtained a patent1 she has been  
specially appointed modiste to the      
,queen of ,belgium1 the ,princess       
,clementine1 and the ,duchess de        
,nemours4  ,not far from the ,english   
,ambassador's1 in the centre as it were 
of what may be termed the ,english      
quarter1 is an establishment styled ,la 
,tentation1 which from the variety and  

excellence of its goods operates on the 
visiter consistently with its title4 ,it
 is a ,magasin de ,nouveautes1          
containing almost every article         
appertaining to the toilet1 as linen1   
drapery1 hosiery1 fancy goods1 etc41 and
 is on that extensive scale1 that their 
assortment possesses every diversity    
that can be desired1 whilst even the    
most fastidious cannot fail of meeting  
that which must suit their taste4 ,this 
establishment is not like many in the   
same way of business1 who spend a little
 fortune in advertising their goods1    
incurring tremendous expenses in        
obtruding themselves and their          
merchandise before the public1 and then 
making that public pay the outlay they  
have made upon newspapers1 pamphlets1   
etc41 by either charging higher prices1 
or laying in stock of inferior quality1 
thereby even at an apparently moderate  
price they are enabled to obtain higher 
profits1 whilst by continuing their     
puffing advertisements1 they hope       

constantly to attract a new supply of   
dupes4  ,la ,tentation1 on the contrary1
 calculate only upon obtaining and      
retaining connexion1 by keeping none but
 good articles1 and selling them at a   
small profit2 strict attention and      
civility to their customers1 and having 
a stock ever consistent with the changes
 of the fashions and seasons1 by a      
constant adherence to these objects a   
durable success has been effected4 ,the 
progress of this establishment has been 
worthy of remark1 commencing under a    
humble roof upon a modest scale1 until  
with the process of time the proprietors
 were emboldened to enlarge their       
premises when at length it increased to 
its present magnitude1 occupying a      
considerable portion of a noble mansion 
,this has been achieved by a judicious  
selection of stock1 with constant       
perseverance1 and conducting their      
business on honourable principles1 it is
 just such an establishment as is       
calculated to please the ,english1 where

 great neatness and cleanliness is      
observed1 and everything conducted in a 
quiet and unassuming manner4 ,the       
charges on each article are fixed at a  
price that will admit of no diminution1 
and the ,english have the satisfaction  
of knowing that they pay no more than   
the ,french1 which perhaps is not the   
case in all houses in ,paris2 persons   
wishing to view the goods are not       
pressed to purchase unless they feel    
disposed to do so1 and however trifling 
may be the amount1 they are not         
tormented1 as in too many shops1 to buy 
more than they wish4 ,whatever articles 
are selected are sent punctually to the 
residence of the parties at the time    
required1 and orders1 whether personally
 or by letter1 meet with the strictest  
attention4 ,there is always some person 
belonging to the establishment who      
speaks ,english4 ,la ,tentation is      
situated ,no4 #fg1 ,rue ,faubourg ,st4  
,honore1 at the corner of the ,avenue de
 ,marigny4  ,perhaps there is no branch 

of the arts which has been wrought to so
 high a perfection as that of making    
artificial flowers1 and no place in the 
world where it is practised to such an  
extent as ,paris1 or with so high a     
degree of talent2 but although it has   
been long and justly celebrated for the 
exquisite taste developed in forming    
bouquets1 wherein all the varieties of  
colour are so assembled as to display   
each other to the best advantage1 yet so
 arranged that a certain harmony should 
pervade the whole2 still ,m4 ,constantin
 has discovered the means of availing   
himself of the abilities of the         
,parisians in this department of the    
art1 that he has elevated it to a degree
 of altitude it had never before        
attained1 and in fact his flowers have  
become so exclusively the mode1 that if 
a lady wear any whatever1 it would be   
offending her to suppose that they were 
any other than those of ,m4 ,constantin4
 ,indeed1 it is impossible to enter his 
apartments without feeling a thorough   

conviction of the elegance of his taste1
 first passing through a long corridor  
between two rows of real flowers1       
proving that he fears not the rivality  
of nature1 conscious that his own works 
unite the same beauties of tints and    
colours which her highest powers can    
produce1 and one room into which his    
customers are introduced1 unites a      
degree of taste in the richness and     
splendour of its ornamental objects1    
with that proper tone of keeping which  
is pleasing to the eye2 but it is at his
 little boudoir that the beholder is    
astonished1 such luxuriant magnificence 
as is therein displayed can only be     
imagined from a description presented in
 the ,arabian ,nights6 in fact the      
,dutch ,ambassador was so delighted with
 the exquisite arrangement of this      
superb specimen of sumptuous decoration1
 that he requested permission to bring  
an artist to take an exact copy of the  
elegant little chamber and its contents1
 to form a similar boudoir for the      

,queen of ,holland4 ,as ,m4 ,constantin 
is now arrived at the summit of his     
profession1 he is enabled to command    
prices commensurate with his talents1   
and has some bouquets as high as #ajjj  
francs1 but there are articles which may
 be purchased at the moderate charge of 
#aj francs2 his residence is ,no4 #cg1  
,rue ,neuve ,st4 ,augustin4 ,m4         
,constantin possesses the recommendation
 of being extremely particular as to the
 morality and propriety of conduct with 
his young persons1 and that degree of   
decorum is constantly preserved1 that   
any ladies visiting his apartments will 
find the same order and discipline      
maintained as in the strictest          
boarding-schools4  ,i know not whether  
it is the case with all men1 but ,i     
believe it is1 that the first time ,i   
see a lady1 ,i naturally look in her    
face1 then my next impulse is to look at
 her foot2 now as ,i have already done  
my utmost for my countrywomen for the   
ornamenting of the former1 in           

recommending them to ,madame de         
,barenne1 ,i must now endeavour to serve
 them in respect to the latter1         
reminding them that in ,lord ,normandy's
 novel of ,yes and ,no1 he observes1    
speaking of the feet of ,parisian       
females1 ,how exquisitely they decorate 
that part of the person1 and as ,i have 
already remarked that ,i do not wish    
,english ladies in any one particular to
 yield to ,parisian or any other ladies1
 ,i must request that they will1 as soon
 as possible after they arrive at       
,paris1 apply to ,m4 ,hoffman1 ,no4 #h1 
,rue de la ,paix1 who will fit them in  
such a light and elegant manner1 giving 
such a jolie tournure to the foot1 that 
they will scarcely know their own feet  
again1 after having been accustomed to  
be shod in the ,english fashion2 for    
although ,i have a very exalted idea of 
the transcendant talents of my          
countrymen1 ,i do not consider that the 
vein of their abilities at all runs in  
the shoemaking line4 ,m4 ,hoffman's     

residence is at the end of a court-yard1
 almost as quiet and as retired as if it
 were in a convent2 his articles will be
 found of the best quality1 both he and 
,madame speak ,english1 and rival each  
other in attention and civility to their
 customers2 they have an assortment of  
the different specimens of their work1  
consisting of every variety which is    
worn1 according with the fashion and    
season4  ,i believe every lady before   
she quits ,england with the intention of
 visiting ,paris1 has already made up   
her mind to make some purchase of lace  
pretty soon after her arrival2 to       
prevent them therefore from falling into
 bad hands1 ,i recommend them to go at  
once to one of the most extensive and   
respectable establishments in that      
department of any in ,paris1 indeed ,i  
believe ,i may truly add the most so4   
,it is one of those large wholesale     
houses of the ,french metropolis that   
transact business with all parts of the 
world in lace1 ribbands1 and silks2 it  

is situated at ,no4 #bter1 ,rue         
,choiseul1 the firm is ,messrs4         
,bellart1 ,louys and ,delcambre1 where  
every description of blonde and lace1 in
 all its multitudinous variety1 from the
 most simple to the richest1 rarest and 
most costly1 will be found1 and at      
extremely reasonable prices1 as so many 
retail dealers furnish themselves from  
this establishment2 besides which1 they 
are themselves manufacturers of black   
,chantilly lace and white blonde4 ,this 
concern has the character of being      
solely wholesale1 but they make an      
exception with regard to lace4 ,their   
collection of ribbands is unrivalled    
both for the beauty and extent4 ,they   
have also a most valuable assortment of 
silks1 satins1 velvets1 stuffs1 brocade1
 embroidery of gold and silver1 etc41   
etc41 selected with extreme taste and   
judgment1 and indeed ,mme de ,barenne   
owes a great portion of her success to  
having supplied herself from this house 
with the material which she required1 as

 being of so very superior a quality1 it
 gave great vogue to whatever was       
produced by her ingenuity1 to which     
certainly her own talents contributed in
 the taste displayed in the disposition 
and arrangement of the different        
articles1 independent of their own      
excellence4  ,whatever rivalry there may
 be between different countries1        
respecting their divers produce and     
manufactures1 with regard to gloves none
 would have the audacity to cast the    
gauntlet at ,france1 which has ever held
 the supremacy over other nations in    
that department1 yet it has recently    
been elevated a step higher by an       
invention of ,m4 ,mayer1 of ,no4 #bf1   
,rue de la ,paix1 for which he has been 
granted a king's patent1 consisting in  
what are termed ball gloves1 which are  
so made as to button and lace about half
 way up the arm1 which prevents them    
from slipping down upon the wrist1 they 
are besides furnished with trimmings    
also invented by ,m4 ,mayer1 which may  

either be of the utmost simplicity1 or  
of the richest description1 and may be  
composed of either satin1 velvet1 lace1 
gold1 or even pearls and diamonds may be
 and are frequently introduced2 they may
 be also furnished with tassels which   
may be formed of materials equally      
costly1 thus the trimmings of these     
gloves may either be had for four francs
 or may cost twenty guineas and upwards1
 according to the desires of the        
wearers4 ,in fact ,m4 ,mayer has        
introduced a degree of luxury and       
splendour in the decorations of gloves1 
which has given them an importance in   
the toilet which they never before      
possessed1 and have become so much the  
vogue with ladies of the highest        
distinction1 that they have obtained for
 ,m4 ,mayer the privilege of furnishing 
the royal family of ,france1 the        
,empress of ,russia1 the ,queens of     
,naples1 ,spain1 ,belgium1 etc4 ,m4     
,mayer also occupies himself with       
gentlemen's gloves1 and has just        

invented a peculiar description1 without
 gussets between the fingers1 by which  
means they set closer to the hand1 and  
are not so liable to be come unsewed as 
by the former method2 he has them       
likewise so arranged as to button at the
 side instead of the middle1 which      
always left an unsightly aperture4 ,now 
,i think of it1 these last few lines had
 no business in the ladies' chapter1 as 
they allude to that which are worn      
solely by gentlemen1 but ,i dare say    
that my fair readers1 if they find ,m4  
,mayer's gloves merit my commendations1 
will be equally anxious that their      
husbands1 brothers1 or sons should      
furnish themselves at the same place and
 excuse the intrusion4 ,m4 ,mayer has a 
private apartment tastefully fitted up1 
appropriated for the ladies1 where they 
can make their selections as            
uninterrupted and unobserved as at their
 own homes4  ,next door to ,m4 ,mayer's1
 at ,no4 #bh1 is an establishment which 
has received very distinguished and     

extensive patronage1 known by the       
appellation of ,la ,maison ,lucy        
,hocquet1 not only for hats1 bonnets1   
capotes and turbans1 but also for       
pelerines1 fichus a la paysanne1        
canzous1 chemisettes1 collars1 habit    
shirts1 parures de spectacles1 etc42 in 
these articles they have been so        
celebrated for the taste and elegance   
with which they are arranged1 that the  
fame of their talents has attracted     
around them many of the most influential
 ladies in ,paris1 as also several of   
the most celebrated artistes whose good 
taste and jugement are proverbial2      
amongst others may be cited ,mlle       
,rachel4 ,la ,maison ,lucy ,hocquet     
likewise furnishes several crowned      
heads1 as the ,empress of ,russia1      
,queen of ,portugal1 etc41 and amongst  
the leading personages of ,paris1 the   
,princess ,demidoff1 the ,duchesses     
d',eckmuehl1 de ,montebello1 de ,valmy1 
,marquise d',osmond1 etc4 ,to the above 
list might be added many names of the   

,english nobility1 who still continue to
 be supplied from this establishment1   
which independent of the merit which is 
displayed in the arrangement of every   
article which it produces1 is also      
highly recommendable on account of the  
attentive civility which they extend to 
all who may have occasion to apply to   
them4     ,,chapter ,x4       ,the      
present artists in ,france and their    
productions1 improvements      in       
,paris1 fortifications1 humanity to     
animals1 education of      females1     
personal appearance of the ,french1 army
 and navy1      scientific ,societies1  
and commercial enterprises4   ,never    
perhaps at any period was there so much 
encouragement given to the arts and     
sciences in general in ,france as at the
 present1 nor ever was there a monarch  
who reigned over the ,french1 who so    
much endeavoured to promote every object
 which tended to usefulness1 or to the  
advancement of the fine arts4 ,no       
country in the world has such advantages

 as ,france for nurturing talent1 and   
giving it the opportunity of developing 
itself1 so numerous are the societies   
and institutions where lectures and     
instruction are afforded gratuitously1  
hence the great assistance to young     
artists2 without any expense or trouble1
 they are admitted into a drawing       
academy1 where they may acquire the     
fundamental principles of the graphic   
art2 afterwards there are other         
different establishments which they can 
enter as their studies progress1 and    
when they attain any degree of          
proficiency1 they have a chance of being
 sent at the expense of government to   
,rome1 to complete their studies1 and if
 they excel to a moderate degree1 are   
sure to be employed by the ,king1 or    
some member of the royal family1 or by  
the nation4 ,with all these immense     
advantages1 how much might be expected  
of the ,french artists1 but the fact    
does not realise those hopes that might 
be justly formed from the solid         

rudimental education which they have the
 power of receiving4 ,the exhibition    
this year at the ,louvre of the         
paintings of the living artists was a   
complete illustration of what ,i have   
stated1 as every one allows that it was 
far inferior to that of last year1 which
 was considered much worse than those of
 former years4  ,at the same time it    
must be admitted that several of the    
best artists have not sent any pictures 
for the last few years1 and particularly
 the present1 when amongst the absentees
 might be cited ,ingres1 ,horace        
,vernet1 ,ary ,scheffer1 ,delaroche1    
etc41 who it appears were all employed  
by the ,king or government2 the         
consequence was1 although there was an  
immense mass of large historical and    
scriptural subjects1 it was what might  
have been called a most sorry display4  
,amongst the number one alone evinced a 
superiority of talent1 and that was the 
taking of ,mazagran by ,phillippoteaux1 
which really had considerable merit1 and

 the artist it appears passed some time 
in ,algiers1 and therefore was enabled  
to give a faithful representation of the
 inhabitants of the country4 ,of        
miscellaneous subjects1 or what the     
,french call tableau de genre1 there    
were many most exquisite pictures1      
amongst the rest1 the ,miller1 his ,son 
and his ,ass1 by ,h4 ,bellange1 which   
was so full of character and expression1
 that it needed not language to tell the
 tale2 there were also several other    
pieces by the same artist1 possessing   
equal merit4 ,an ,assembly of           
,protestants surprised by ,catholic     
,troops1 by ,karl ,girardet1 was a most 
superior picture in ,wilkie's best      
style2 ,reading the ,bible1 by ,edward  
,girardet1 also exceedingly clever2 but 
one of the most delightful pictures in  
the exhibition was by ,gue1 of ,raymond 
of ,toulouse reconciling himself to the 
,church2 ,i never yet saw any           
performance of that artist but evinced  
some great merit1 either the finest     

imagination1 the most beautiful         
execution1 or the utmost truth to       
nature1 according to the subject he     
undertakes4 ,i should certainly         
pronounce ,gue as one of the best       
artists who now send their pictures to  
the ,louvre2 one he had two years since 
of the ,crucifixion1 at the annual      
,exhibition1 which certainly was a most 
sublime composition1 the approach of    
night1 with a slight glare of parting   
light1 was most admirably represented1  
and gave a sort of wild gloom which so  
beautifully harmonised with the nature  
of the subject2 he had also introduced  
the dead rising from their tombs1 which 
contributed to augment the solemn tone  
which pervaded the whole picture4       
,however lightly or frivolously the mind
 might be engaged1 one glance at this   
exquisite painting must at once strike  
awe into the beholder2 it was true that 
there was a great similarity with one on
 the same subject1 in the ,louvre1 by   
,karel ,dujardin1 but not sufficiently  

so to say it was borrowed1 or to detract
 from its merit4 ,t4 ,johanot had but   
one picture this year1 which was very   
clever1 as his always are2 his subjects 
are mostly historical1 and his          
illustrations of ,walter ,scott are     
universally known and admired4 ,schopin 
is another of the ,french artists whose 
pictures will always live1 his females  
are so truly graceful1 such sweetness of
 expression in their countenances2 this 
year he did not shine so much as he has 
before1 having but one picture1 which   
was from ,ruth and ,boaz1 and the latter
 was made to appear too old4 ,a         
paralyzed old ,man on an ,ass1 which his
 son was leading1 was a true picture of 
nature1 by ,leleux2 the vigour of the   
one and the feebleness of the other were
 admirably contrasted1 although rather  
flat from wanting more shade4  ,of this 
description there were far too many     
pictures possessing merit than ,i can   
afford room to cite1 but amongst the    
portraits there were some such wretched 

daubs1 that they would have been a      
disgrace to any country2 in fact this is
 a branch in which the ,french are      
peculiarly deficient1 and in which we   
far surpass them4 ,the portrait painter 
who has now the greatest vogue is       
,winterhatter1 who certainly has a great
 degree of merit1 but rather sacrifices 
the face to the drapery2 his picture of 
the ,queen was very justly admired in   
many respects1 but the laboured accuracy
 with which the lace was given1 was     
rendered so conspicuous1 that the eye   
fell upon the costume before it lighted 
upon the features2 this pleases the     
ladies1 ,i am aware1 who like to have an
 exact map of their blonde and guipure1 
and it certainly is too much the case   
that an artist is obliged to be more or 
less the slave of his sitters and their 
friends2 his miscellaneous pieces1 where
 his pencil roves freely1 are all that  
is delightful4 ,his portrait of the     
,comte de ,paris and the ,duchess de    
,nemours1 certainly display considerable

 talent4 ,two favourite and fashionable 
portrait painters are ,dubuffe and      
,court1 the works of the former are well
 known in ,england1 they are exceedingly
 attractive from their softness and     
brilliance1 but they want the crispness 
and tone of nature1 the drawing also is 
sometimes defective4 ,these observations
 equally apply to both these artists4   
,the younger ,dubuffe is rising rapidly 
in the estimation of artists4 ,i have   
seen some portraits very true to life by
 ,coignet1 ,roller1 ,laure1 ,rouilliard1
 and ,vinchon2 one of ,sebastiani1 by   
the latter1 was quite nature itself4    
,there are several very clever painters 
of marine subjects1 amongst others      
,gudin and ,isabey1 and there is not any
 department which is more encouraged by 
the ,king and the government2 for the   
last several years the former has had   
orders for at least a dozen each year1  
of naval combats between ,france and her
 enemies1 but those subjects which he   
paints from his own spontaneous         

suggestions1 are infinitely superior to 
such as he executes to order4 ,fruits   
and flowers are branches of the art in  
which the ,french artists particularly  
excel1 one piece of flowers by ,bergon  
,i think was one of the most perfect ,i 
have met with4  ,latterly they have much
 advanced in their representation of    
cattle1 their sheep and cows are        
particularly good2 some draught horses  
by ,casey were executed with infinite   
spirit1 as also some wild horses by     
,lepoitevin4 ,some delightful domestic  
pieces must excite admiration1 of       
fishermen1 their wives and children1 by 
,colin1 very much in the style of our   
own ,collins1 but not quite so good1 as 
also others by ,le ,camus ,duval4       
,several interesting subjects attracted 
much of my attention1 by ,henry         
,scheffer1 ,meissonnier1 ,bouchot1      
,dupre1 ,steuben1 ,rubio1 ,signol1      
,charlet1 ,storelli1 and a few others2  
in water colours the ,french are now    
advancing with rapid strides1 this year 

there were some exquisite specimens in  
that department of painting1            
particularly by ,heroult3 but the style 
in which the ,french now are most happy1
 is in what they call pastel1 which     
consists in a great variety of coloured 
chalks1 rather harder than what we      
understand by crayons2 the manner in    
which they execute portraits about a    
quarter the size of life1 with these    
materials1 is surprising1 it infinitely 
surpasses their oil portrait or their   
miniatures4 ,there are several foreign  
artists within the last two years1 who  
have sent their works to the ,louvre    
which must not be passed unnoticed1     
amongst the rest is a ,spanish artist   
named ,villa amil1 whose interiors are  
far above mediocrity1 and who has given 
us some rich specimens of ,spanish      
monuments1 which are now admirably      
illustrated in a periodical lithographic
 work4 ,our countrymen1 ,messrs4 ,callow
 and ,barker1 have also sent several    
pieces1 which do them and their country 

credit1 the former1 some beautiful      
subjects in water colours1 and the      
latter of varied descriptions1 in some  
of which the game has been particularly 
admired4  ,miniature painting in ,france
 ,i should decidedly say was much       
inferior to that of ,england1 they are  
very fond of thick muddy back-grounds1  
their colouring partakes of the same    
dirty hue1 there is generally a         
stiffness in the position1 and much high
 finish without effect2 there are       
certainly some exceptions to this rule1 
at the head of which is ,madame         
,lezinska de ,mirbel1 whose miniatures  
are broad1 bold1 and natural1 but always
 plainer than the originals2 there are a
 few others who have come forward       
latterly1 whose performances are above  
mediocrity4 ,there were some landscapes 
which evinced much talent1 both as to   
composition and execution2 the selection
 of subjects being from some of the wild
 romantic provinces of ,france and      
,switzerland1 aided greatly in affording

 them a certain degree of interest4     
,taking a comparative view of the       
artists of ,england and ,france1 there  
is no doubt1 generally speaking1 that   
the latter are superior in drawing1 and 
the former in colouring2 many of the    
,french artists have latterly adopted a 
leady tone in their flesh tints1 which  
gives their figures a half dead         
appearance4 ,with whatever faults he may
 possess1 ,i doubt if there be any other
 man that can do so much as ,horace     
,vernet2 many may be found who may excel
 him in the separate objects which he   
must introduce in a general historical  
subject1 as a landscape1 an             
architectural building1 a ship1 a horse1
 etc41 might be better executed by such 
artists as have exclusively studied any 
one of those subjects1 but ,i do not    
think there is any painter now living   
who could produce the ensemble so well1 
and manage to give the effect to the    
composition in the same masterly style  
as ,horace ,vernet4 ,delaroche also has 

completed many pictures which with his  
name will be immortal2 the same may be  
said of ,ary ,scheffer1 whilst ,ingres  
is known and cited all over ,europe for 
the perfection of his drawing1 supposed 
to be the only man who could correctly  
draw the naked human figure in any      
position without a model4 ,in portrait  
and miniature painting1 landscapes and  
water colours1 the ,french are still    
decidedly inferior to the ,english      
artists4  ,with respect to sculpture1 it
 is so far more encouraged in ,france   
than in ,england1 that of course the    
numbers who profess it are far more     
numerous in the former country1 and     
there is a great deal of talent to be   
found amongst the present ,french       
sculptors1 but perhaps not quite of the 
highest class4 ,i never have seen       
anything which ,i considered so         
beautiful as ,bailey's ,eve1 and ,i     
doubt whether there are any of them who 
could produce a work equal to ,gibson1  
or that could surpass ,cockerill in the 

representation of a horse1 still most of
 their statues which have been executed 
for the government1 are certainly better
 than many of those which have been     
placed in different parts of ,london4   
,there is a great taste for sculptural  
subjects in general throughout ,paris1  
numbers of houses which have been       
recently built are adorned with statues1
 and an immense variety of devices and  
ornaments of different descriptions1 all
 of which afford employment for the     
young sculptor2 in fact there exists now
 quite a mania for decoration1 and those
 mansions which still remain of the     
middle ages present the same            
predilection for rich carve-work and    
elaborate ornament which is now revived1
 and undoubtedly it gives a very        
picturesque richness to the aspect of a 
city4 ,as a department of sculpture ,i  
certainly must not omit to state to what
 a high degree the ,french have wrought 
the art of casting in bronze1 and ,i am 
sure ,i shall be procuring my readers a 

treat in directing them to the          
establishment of ,m4 ,de ,braux         
d',anglure1 ,no4 #h1 ,rue ,castiglione2 
they will there find an infinite variety
 of very splendid subjects1 some        
executed with the most exquisite        
delicacy1 others in fine broad masses1  
as animals the size of life1 and some   
equestrian figures of the middle ages   
after the first masters displaying the  
full merit of the original designs4 ,but
 that which is still more interesting is
 to visit ,m4 ,de ,braux's foundry1 and 
atelier1 ,no4 #ae1 ,rue d',astorg1 where
 he takes a pleasure in explaining the  
whole process requisite in casting the  
different objects1 and showing them     
throughout the various stages through   
which they pass before they are         
completed4 ,the ,french have brought    
this art to a high perfection1 which it 
appears is facilitated by their having a
 peculiar sort of sand near ,paris      
7which they cannot find elsewhere71     
particularly serviceable for the purpose

 of casting4 ,the orders which come from
 ,england for works in bronze is        
immense2 whilst ,i was at ,m4 de        
,braux's he was at work upon a bust of  
the ,duke of ,wellington1 which was part
 of what was to be a figure the size of 
life1 destined as a national monument   
7as ,m4 de ,braux understood7 for some  
part of ,london4 ,the great art which he
 now practises1 is that of casting whole
 masses at once1 instead of small bits  
which were joined together according to 
the former method4 ,every amateur of the
 arts will find the highest             
gratification in viewing the number of  
interesting objects which present       
themselves in various forms at ,m4 de   
,braux's atelier4  ,the shopkeepers and 
proprietors of coffee-houses1           
restaurants1 etc41 also have afforded   
much occupation to artists of moderate  
talent1 having reliefs and paintings    
introduced upon their walls1 that are by
 no means contemptible1 and it is quite 
an amusement1 in walking the streets of 

,paris1 to observe to what an extent it 
is carried2 many of the new houses in   
the most frequented thoroughfares1 above
 the shops1 are now so handsome that if 
they were appropriated for national     
purposes would be admired as public     
monuments1 some of these may be remarked
 even in several of the narrow shabby   
streets1 only 7as already stated7 they  
are compelled1 by the ,municipality1 to 
build them a few feet farther back1 to  
give greater width to the street4 ,one  
of the beauties and attractions of      
,paris at the present period1 is the    
,passages1 in which are to be found some
 of the most splendid assortments of    
every article which the most refined    
luxury can desire2 of such a description
 are the ,passages des ,panoramas1      
,saumon1 ,choiseul1 ,vero-,dodat1       
,vivienne1 ,opera and ,colbert2 in the  
latter is a ,magasin de ,nouveaute1     
styled the ,grand ,colbert1 which       
peculiarly merits the attention1 both of
 the amateur and the connaisseurs of    

such merchandise as will be found there 
displayed4 ,in ,paris there are many    
establishments of this nature on the    
most colossal scales1 even surpassing in
 extent the far famed ,waterloo ,house1 
but in none is the public more          
honourably served1 or treated with a    
greater degree of courtesy and          
attention1 than at the ,grand ,colbert2 
the taste and discernment with which    
their stock is selected1 does the       
highest credit to the proprietors1 and  
their premises being arranged and       
decorated so as to resemble a ,moresque 
temple1 as the purchasers behold spread 
around them in gay profusion all the    
rich and glowing tints which ,cashmere  
can produce1 they may almost fancy that 
they are in some oriental ,bazaar1 where
 the costly manufactures of those climes
 are displayed for the admiring gaze of 
the delighted spectator4 ,in the choice 
of silks is developed the beau ideal of 
all that the genius1 art1 and industry  
of ,lyons can effect1 which has been    

selected as regards the tints and       
designs1 with an artistical tact4 ,a    
great advantage of this establishment is
 that one partner is ,french1 possessing
 that degree of taste for which his     
countrymen are so justly celebrated in  
all that relates to fancy goods1 whilst 
the other partner is ,english1 partaking
 of that truly national character which 
pries deeply into the worth and solidity
 of every article1 before it is         
presented to the public4 ,thus far ,i   
can speak from experience1 having for   
sixteen years been accustomed to        
purchase every thing ,i required at the 
,grand ,colbert1 either in linen1       
drapery1 mercery1 hosiery1 lace1        
millinery1 etc4 ,the premises are       
entered from two different points1 the  
,rue ,vivienne1 and the ,rue            
,neuve-des-,petits-,champs1 of which    
streets it forms the corner4 ,the       
central position adds another           
recommendation to the stranger1 being   
close to the ,palais ,royal1 in a street

 communicating with the ,bourse1 and the
 most fashionable part of the           
,boulevards1 but a few minutes' walk    
from all the principal ,theatres1 at the
 back of the ,royal ,library1 and in    
fact in the midst of the most attractive
 and frequented parts of ,paris4 ,whilst
 a long range of immense squares of     
plate glass not only have an ornamental 
appearance but have the effect of       
throwing so powerful a light upon the   
premises that every possible advantage  
may be afforded for the examination of  
the goods4  ,just near this spot they   
are about to open a new street1 which   
will be on the spacious and handsome    
plan of those which have been recently  
constructed2 many others are projected  
on the same system1 and will have a most
 beneficial effect1 in adding to the    
salubrity of the capital1 by clearing   
away a number of little dirty lanes and 
alleys1 hundreds of which have already  
been absorbed in the great improvements 
which have been effected in ,paris      

within my recollection4 ,the extensive  
projects which are in contemplation for 
the embellishing of the city1 would cost
 some hundreds of millions of francs to 
carry into effect1 but could have been  
executed1 had not so large a sum been   
required for the erection of the        
fortifications1 which are proceeding1 if
 not rapidly1 at any rate steadily4     
,concerning their utility or the policy 
of such a measure1 opinion is much      
divided1 but the majority conceive that 
such circumstances as could render them 
necessary are never likely to arrive1 as
 they consider that by keeping the      
frontiers always in the best state of   
defense1 there never could be any fear  
of an army reaching ,paris1 as when it  
occurred under ,napoleon1 it was after  
the resources of ,france had been       
exhausted by a war of upwards of twenty 
years1 an event that in all probability 
never could happen again1 and that the  
immense outlay of capital might be      
applied to purposes so much more        

calculated to promote the welfare of the
 country4 ,others contend that supposing
 ,france to be assailed by three armies1
 and even that she be victorious over   
two of them1 and it be not the case with
 the third1 that force might march on   
,paris1 which might be immediately taken
 if it were open as at present1 whereas 
if fortified1 the resistance it would be
 enabled to make would give time for    
either of the victorious armies to come 
to its relief4 ,whilst a third party    
pretend that the fortifications are     
intended more to operate against ,paris 
than in its defence2 that in case of any
 formidable popular commotion the       
surrounding cannon can be pointed       
against the city and inhabitants1 and   
any refractory bands that might be      
disposed to pour in from the province to
 join the factious could be effectually 
prevented entering ,paris4 ,whatever may
 be the different opinions on the       
subject1 every one must regret such a   
tremendous expense for almost a         

visionary object1 whilst there is so    
much capital and labour required for    
increasing the facilities of            
communication by means of improved      
roads1 canals1 or railways from the     
opposite points of the kingdom4  ,with  
respect to the ameliorations which have 
already been effected in ,paris1 one may
 say that wonders have been             
accomplished1 particularly in regard to 
cleansing and paving the streets1 and in
 all possible cases opening and widening
 every available spot of ground1 whereby
 a freer air could be admitted4 ,i      
cannot conceive how people formerly     
could exist in such dirty holes emitting
 horrible odours1 of which there still  
remain too many specimens1 wherein even 
the physical appearance of persons one  
would imagine certainly must be         
affected1 yet ,i have often remarked in 
the midst of the narrowest and most     
unsightly looking streets of ,paris1    
numbers of persons with fresh colours   
and having a most healthy appearance2 it

 is true that there are now open spaces 
in all quarters1 from which a person    
cannot live more than about two hundred 
yards1 the ,boulevards encircling       
,paris1 and the ,seine running through  
it with its large wide quays1 afford a  
free current of air all through the     
heart of the city1 then there are such a
 number of spacious markets1 of places1 
or1 as we call them1 squares1 and of    
large gardens1 which all afford ample   
breathing room2 whereas in ,london that 
is not the case1 in many parts1 such as 
the city end of ,holborn1 ,cheapside1   
,cornhill1 ,leadenhall street1          
,whitechapel1 etc41 where you must go a 
long way to get any thing like fresh    
air4 ,that part of ,paris termed ,la    
,cite1 was the worst in that respect1   
but such numbers of houses have been    
swept away round ,notre-,dame1 that they
 have now formed delightful promenades  
with trees and gravelled walks4  ,the   
,french are extremely fond of anything  
in the shape of a garden1 and you come  

upon them sometimes where you would     
least expect to find them at the backs  
of houses1 in the very narrow nasty     
little streets to which ,i have alluded1
 but if they have no space of ground in 
which they can raise a bit of something 
green1 they will avail themselves of    
their balconies1 their terraces1 their  
roofs1 parapets1 and ,i have often seen 
a sort of frame-work projecting from    
their windows1 containing flowers and   
plants4 ,they evince the same partiality
 for animals1 to whom they are extremely
 kind1 and in several parts of ,paris   
there are hospitals for dogs and cats1  
where they are attended with the utmost 
care4 ,i was much amused the first time 
,i heard of such an establishment2 ,i   
went with a lady to pay a visit to a    
friend1 and after the usual enquiries1  
the question of how is ,bijou was added1
 in a most anxious manner3 the answer   
was given with a sigh4 ,oh6 my dear1 he 
is at the hospital1 and then continued  
the lady in a somewhat less doleful     

tone1 but fortunately he is going on    
very well1 and in another week we hope  
he will be able to come out4 ,i thought 
all the while that they must be alluding
 to a servant of the family1 who had    
been sent to the hospital1 when the lady
 ,i had accompanied exclaimed1 ,poor    
dear little creature4 ,this somewhat    
puzzled me1 and whilst ,i was pondering 
on what it could all mean1 the other    
lady observed1 ,it is such a nice       
affectionate animal1 and at last ,i     
found out it was a dog which excited so 
much sympathy4  ,i have also observed   
the same kind consideration towards     
their horses1 and remember once seeing  
the driver of a cabriolet take off his  
great coat to cover his horse with it1  
and certainly at present ,i do not      
perceive any practical proof of what    
used to be said of ,paris1 that it was a
 hell for horses1 and a heaven for      
women1 and as to the latter case it is  
very evident that the females work much 
more than they do in ,england1          

particularly amongst the middle-classes2
 accounts being strictly attended to in 
the course of their education1 enables  
them to render most important aid in the
 establishments either of their husbands
 or brothers1 to which they devote      
themselves with much cheerfulness and   
assiduity1 arising from the manner in   
which they are brought up4 ,indeed the  
general system observed in female       
boarding-schools in ,paris is very      
commendable1 and as there are numbers of
 the ,english whose circumstances will  
not permit of their residing in ,france1
 yet are extremely desirous that their  
children should acquire a perfect       
knowledge of the ,french language1 ,i   
know not any service that ,i can render 
such persons more important than that of
 recommending a seminary1 in which ,i   
can confidently state that they will not
 only receive all the advantages of an  
accomplished education1 but also be     
treated with maternal care2 of such a   
description is the establishment of     

,madame ,loiseau4 ,having known several 
young ladies who had been there brought 
up1 and hearing them always express     
themselves in the most affectionate     
manner of its mistress1 whilst the      
parents added their encomiums to those  
of their children1 ,i was tempted to pay
 ,madame ,loiseau a visit1 that ,i might
 be empowered to recommend her          
establishment1 by having the advantage  
of ocular demonstration added to that of
 oral testimony4  ,i have known several 
boarding-schools in my own country1 but 
never any one which was superior in     
regard to the extreme of neatness and   
cleanliness1 or possessing a more       
perfect system of regularity1 which     
appears to prevail in that of ,madame   
,loiseau2 although mine was rather an   
early morning call1 yet all was in the  
nicest order4 ,the house1 which is in   
the ,rue ,neuve de ,berri1 ,no4 #f1 just
 close to the ,champs ,elysees1 the     
favourite quarter of the ,english1 is   
most advantageously situated1 facing a  

park1 and at the back is a good sized   
garden1 with shaded walks1 well         
calculated for the recreation of the    
pupils1 and there is besides a spacious 
gymnasium1 where the young ladies can   
always practise those exercises so much 
recommended for the promotion of health1
 when the weather will not permit of    
taking the air4 ,the premises are so    
extensive1 that different rooms are     
appropriated for different studies1 the 
one for drawing1 another for writing1   
several for music1 etc41 etc42 there is 
a chapel attached to the establishment1 
which is adapted to those who are of the
 ,catholic persuasion1 whilst the       
,english ,protestant pupils are sent    
with a teacher of their own country1    
either to the ,ambassador's or to the   
,marboeuf ,english chapel1 both of which
 are near to the residence of ,madame   
,loiseau4 ,the masters for the different
 accomplishments are judiciously        
selected1 and although much attention is
 devoted to enriching the minds of the  

pupils with the beauties of literature1 
and elegant acquirements1 ,madame       
,loiseau takes still more pains in      
instructing them in every social duty1  
towards rendering them exemplary1 either
 as daughters1 wives1 or mothers4 ,in   
case of any pupils proving unwell1      
apartments are appropriated to them1    
separated from the dormitories1 where   
they receive the most assiduous         
attention2 baths are amongst other      
conveniences contained within the       
establishment4 ,the table is most       
liberally supplied1 and on those days   
which are observed as fasts by the      
catholics1 joints are prepared for the  
protestants1 the same as upon other     
days4 ,the terms are moderate1          
proportioned to the advantages which are
 offered4  ,the physical appearance of  
the ,french strikes me as having        
undergone a considerable change2 when ,i
 was a child1 ,i can remember a host of 
emigrants who used to live mostly about 
,somers ,town1 and impressed me with the

 idea of their being tall and meagre1   
exactly as ,i was accustomed to see them
 represented in the caricatures2 ,i     
remember particularly remarking that    
they had thin visages1 hollow cheeks1   
long noses and chins1 that ,i used to   
observe they were all features and no   
face1 they had besides a sort of grouty 
snuffy appearance2 of the females ,i    
have less recollection1 except that ,i  
thought they looked rather yellow1 and  
generally took snuff4 ,when ,i came to  
,france1 therefore1 ,i was very much    
struck with the change1 particularly in 
the young men1 whom ,i found with small 
features1 and generally round faces1 of 
the middle height1 and well made1 not so
 dark or so pale as ,i expected to find 
them4 ,the same description applies to  
the females2 there is not so much red   
and white as we are accustomed to see in
 ,england1 nor the soft blue eye1 nor   
flaxen nor golden hair1 nor generally   
speaking such fine busts1 and ,i know   
not why1 but the ,french women have     

almost always shorter necks1 but they   
have mostly very pretty little feet and 
ankles1 and although their features may 
not be regular or handsome1 taken       
separately1 yet the ensemble is         
generally pleasing2 their eyes are fine 
and expressive1 and after all1 in my    
opinion1 expression is the soul of      
beauty4 ,the female peasantry of ,france
 take no pains in guarding against the  
sun and wind1 but merely wear caps1     
consequently get very much tanned1 and  
look old very soon3 whereas the         
,englishwomen preserve their appearance 
much longer by wearing bonnets1 and     
particularly pokes1 which effectually   
shelter the face4 ,the sun also has more
 power in most parts of ,france1 and the
 women work harder than in ,england1    
therefore cannot wear so well4          
,proportioned to the price of           
provisions1 wages are higher in ,france 
than in ,england2 you cannot have an    
able bodied man in ,paris1 for the      
lowest description of work1 for less    

than #dj sous a day1 those who are now  
working at the fortifications have #ej1 
that being the minimum1 and if a person 
understand any trade1 #c1 #d1 and #e    
francs are the usual prices1 and those  
who are considered clever at their      
business often get more4 ,but many a    
young man's advancement in life is      
impeded by the conscription2 it often   
occurs that an industrious shopman1 or  
artisan1 has with economy saved some    
hundred francs1 when he is drawn for the
 army1 and glad to appropriate his      
little savings towards procuring him    
some comforts more than the common      
soldier is allowed2 the troops generally
 are very quiet and orderly behaved1 in 
the different towns where they are      
quartered1 but the infantry have not a  
very brilliant appearance1 having found 
small men so very active and serviceable
 in climbing the rocks1 enduring        
fatigue1 and braving all kinds of       
impediments1 men two inches shorter than
 would have before been received1 were  

admitted into the ranks1 the consequence
 is that the regiments of the line now  
make but a poor display1 as regards the 
height of the men1 and indeed in their  
manner of marching1 and carrying their  
muskets1 some nearly upright others more
 horizontally1 they have not a regular  
orderly appearance1 like many of the    
other troops on the ,continent2 most of 
the largest sized men are taken up for  
the cavalry1 and very well looking      
fellows they many of them are1          
particularly in the ,carabineers1 which1
 in regard to the height of the men1 is 
a remarkably fine regiment1 but might be
 much more so1 if the government paid   
that attention which is devoted by other
 powers to the selections for their     
choice regiments2 in the ,carabineers   
there are men as much as six feet three1
 and four1 and others as short as five  
feet ten1 whilst in other regiments1    
such as the ,lancers and ,dragoons1 they
 have here and there men above six feet1
 which if placed in the ,carabineers1   

and those who were the shortest in that 
corps removed into the others1 all those
 regiments would be improved1 as being  
rendered more even1 whilst the          
,carabineers would then be equal in     
appearance1 with regard to the men1 to  
any regiment in the world4 ,with respect
 to the horses1 it would be more        
difficult to render it as perfect as our
 ,life ,guards1 and as to their bridles 
and equipments in general 7except their 
regimentals7 there is often an          
inequality and want of care and         
attention as to uniformity of           
appearance1 but throughout all the      
,french cavalry1 the men have an        
excellent command over their horses4 ,i 
have been at many grand reviews both in 
,france and in ,england1 and in the     
former ,i never saw a man thrown1       
whereas in the latter it has frequently 
occurred1 either from the horse falling 
or other circumstances4  ,with regard to
 the ,french army in general1 the effect
 is that of the men having individually 

a degree of independent appearance1 or  
as if each man acted for himself1       
instead of being as one solid machine   
set in motion as it were by a sort of   
spring1 which moving the whole mass1 all
 the parts must operate together4 ,the  
,french infantry1 in point of marching1 
are an exact contrast to the most highly
 disciplined troops of ,russia and      
,prussia1 who pretend to assert that    
they have regiments who can march with  
such extreme steadiness and regularity1 
that every man may have a glass of wine 
upon his head and not a drop will be    
spilt2 attempt the same thing with a    
,french regiment1 and wine and glass    
would soon be on the ground1 and in all 
their military proceeding there is an   
apparent slovenliness and irregularity1 
a want of closeness and compactness in  
their movements2 with regard to outward 
appearance1 the ,national ,guard have   
the advantage on a field day1 as there  
is a sort of esprit du corps between the
 legions1 which causes them to take     

great pains with regard to the tenue of 
their respective battalions2 but after  
all1 the great force of the ,french army
 is enthusiasm1 and that would be       
excited to a much greater degree in a   
war with ,england1 than with any other  
power1 because they have been so taunted
 by the ,english press1 with the old    
absurd doctrine1 viz41 that one         
,englishman can beat three ,frenchmen1  
and several papers lately raked up the  
battles of ,cressy1 ,poitiers1          
,agincourt1 etc41 but the reply of the  
,french is indisputable1 that those     
successes were most efficiently         
revenged1 when it is remembered that    
,england was in possession of the whole 
of the provinces of ,guienne1 ,normandy1
 great part of ,picardy and ,french     
,flanders1 some portions of which were  
under ,england for nearly #ejj years1   
but that we were overcome in such a     
succession of battles1 that ultimately  
we were beaten out of every acre we had 
left in ,france2 ,calais1 which         

surrendered to the ,duke de ,guise1 in  
the reign of ,mary1 being the last place
 which we retained4 ,these of course1 as
 historical facts1 cannot be denied4    
,but ,i certainly do consider that      
portion of the ,english press much to   
blame1 in recurring to events so        
distant1 for the purpose of wounding    
national feeling2 the effect has been to
 provoke reply on the part of the       
,french press1 and in all the virulence 
of party spirit1 in defending their     
country against the odium cast upon her1
 they have been led into some of the    
most illiberal statements which have had
 a very baneful effect upon many        
persons1 in exciting an extreme         
irritation against ,england2 but        
generally speaking1 the ,french people1 
if left alone1 do not desire war with   
the ,english2 if it were only for the   
sake of their interests1 it is natural  
for the ,french to wish for peace with  
,england1 as her subjects are amongst   
the most liberal purchasers of the      

produce of the soil and manufactures of 
,france4  ,the party the most anxious   
for war with ,england1 is the navy1 and 
they bitterly feel the sting which goads
 within them1 of their having been so   
beaten by our fleets1 and pant for an   
opportunity to efface the stain which   
they certainly do feel now tarnishes the
 honour of their flag4 ,they consider1  
also1 that the circumstances under which
 they were opposed to the forces of     
,england1 were so disadvantageous1 that 
no other result could have been expected
 than such as occurred1 as when the war 
broke out in #agic1 ,france had not one 
experienced admiral in the service2 all 
possessing any practical knowledge of   
naval affairs1 being staunch adherents  
to the royal cause1 had either quitted  
,france1 or retired from the navy1 de   
,grasse1 d',estaing1 ,entrecasteux1     
d',orvilliers1 ,suffren1 ,bougainville  
and several others4 ,the consequence    
was1 that the command of the fleets were
 given to men who acquitted themselves  

very ably in the management of a single 
vessel1 but were not at all competent to
 the office with which the necessity of 
circumstances invested them1 and        
although there were several encounters  
between the frigates of the two nations1
 in which the reputation of both were   
well sustained1 yet of the power of so  
doing1 the ,french were soon deprived1  
by ,napoleon1 who at one period in his  
ardour for military glory1 sacrificed   
the navy1 by taking from it the best    
gunners in order to supply his          
artillery2 also the choicest and ablest 
men were selected wherever they could be
 found1 to fill up the ranks of the     
army1 which were being constantly       
thinned by the universal war which he   
was always waging with the greater part 
of ,europe4 ,the ships were then manned 
with whatever refuse could be picked up1
 and a ,lieutenant ,diez told me1 that  
the crew of the vessel to which he      
belonged was such1 that they had not    
above twenty men who could go aloft1 and

 had they met with an ,english vessel of
 the same size1 they must have been     
taken without the least difficulty4 ,but
 the officers in the present ,french    
navy know that the case is now very     
different1 for the last twenty years the
 greatest attention has been devoted to 
that arm1 which is candidly acknowledged
 on the part of our naval officers1 of  
which ,i remember an instance at        
,smyrna1 whilst dining at the ,english  
consul's with eight or ten of them1     
being the commanders of the ships which 
composed the ,english fleet1 then lying 
at ,vourla1 when the conversation       
falling upon the ,french navy1 it was   
observed that nothing could be more     
perfect than its state at that period1  
every man1 down to a cabin boy1 knowing 
well his duty1 and all the regulations  
and manoeuvres being carried on with    
such perfect order and regularity4      
,there are however some advantages which
 we still maintain1 afforded by our     
foreign commerce being the most         

extensive1 enabling us always to have a 
greater number of sailors1 and generally
 speaking more experienced seamen1 and a
 ,french naval captain who has seen a   
good deal of service1 once observed that
 there was another point in which we had
 a superiority1 and that was with       
respect to our ship's carpenters1 which 
was particularly illustrated in the     
combat at ,navarin1 as the morning after
 the action the ,english were far in    
advance of the ,french1 with regard to  
the repairs which had been rendered     
necessary from the damages which had    
been sustained4  ,the ,french now have  
several officers who are experienced    
practical men1 in whom the navy has     
great confidence1 as1 ,admirals         
,duperre1 ,hugon1 ,rosamel1 ,lalande1   
,beaudin1 ,roussin1 ,bergeret1 ,mackau1 
,casey1 etc41 all of whose names have   
been before the public in different     
affairs in which they have created their
 present reputation4 ,during the present
 reign1 every means has been adopted to 

infuse within the minds of the ,french  
an interest for naval affairs1 hence    
apartments have been fitted up in the   
,louvre1 as before stated1 with models1 
and representations of all connected    
with a ship1 whilst the best artists    
have been employed to paint different   
naval actions1 which have reflected     
honour on the ,french flag1 and really  
,i had no idea that they could have     
cited so many instances1 in regard to   
encounters with our shipping1 but on    
reference to ,james's ,naval ,history1  
they will be found mainly correct1      
giving some latitude for a little       
exaggeration in their own favour1 a     
habit to which ,i believe every nation  
is more or less prone4 ,the government  
have certainly succeeded beyond their   
wishes1 in engendering an extreme       
anxiety in the people with regard to the
 navy1 which has just been elicited1 in 
the singular anomaly of the opposition  
voting on the motion of ,m4 ,lacrosse a 
greater sum by three millions of francs 

for the navy than the minister demanded4
 ,with an eye also to the marine1       
,louis-,philippe has made some          
sacrifices to the promotion and         
extension of foreign commerce1 and not  
without a considerable degree of        
success4  ,there is not at present any  
branch of art1 science1 or industry1    
that the ,french are not making great   
exertions to encourage1 for that object 
many societies and companies are formed1
 of which ,i will state a few of the    
most important4 ,there are four         
societies styled ,athenaeum1 the ,royal1
 which is at the ,palais-,royal1 ,no4   
#b1 devoted to literature1 and three    
others at the ,hotel de ,ville for      
music1 for medicine1 and for the arts4  
,the ,geographical ,society1 ,rue de    
l',universite1 #bc4 ,royal ,antiquarian 
,society1 ,rue des ,petits-,augustins1  
,no4 #af4 ,asiatic ,society1 and for    
elementary ,instruction1 ,agriculture1  
,moral ,christianity1 ,no4 #ab1 ,rue    
,taranne4 ,society for universal ,french

 ,statistics1 ,place ,vendome1 #bd4 ,the
 ,protestant ,bible ,society of ,paris1 
,rue ,montorgueil4 ,geological ,society1
 ,rue du ,vieux-,colombier1 ,no4 #bf4   
,philotechnic ,society1 ,no4 #af1 ,rue  
des ,petits-,augustins4 ,philomatic     
,society1 ,entomological1 and for       
natural ,history1 ,no4 #f1 ,rue         
d',anjou1 ,faubourg ,st4 ,germain4      
,society for intellectual ,emancipation1
 ,no4 #aa1 ,rue ,st4 ,georges1 as also a
 variety of other medical1 surgical1    
phrenological1 etc41 etc41 a number of  
schools besides those ,i have already   
alluded to1 veterinary1 for mosaic work1
 technography1 and other purposes4      
,although ,i have observed that in great
 commercial undertakings1 the ,french   
are very slow and cautious1 yet they are
 progressing visibly2 there are now     
thirty-four coal mines at work in       
various parts of ,france1 belonging to  
different public companies more or less 
flourishing1 besides private            
enterprises1 #af more in agitation where

 coal has been found1 and societies     
formed but not yet in active operation1 
and #ae now working in ,belgium1 of     
which the sharers are principally       
,french4 ,there are twenty ,asphalte and
 ,bitumen companies4 ,thirty-five       
,assurance companies1 between twenty and
 thirty railway ditto1 about the same   
number for canals and nearly as many for
 steam boats1 and for bridges projected 
about #bj1 for gas1 #ad1 for the        
bringing into cultivation the marshes   
and waste lands1 #g1 for markets1       
bazaars1 and depots1 #aj1 and for       
manufactures of glass1 earthenware1 soap
 and a variety of other things1 there   
are about forty more public companies4  
,these are such as now still offer their
 shares for sale2 there are many others 
which have been for a length of time    
established1 which no longer issue      
either advertisement or prospectus1 but 
when enterprises of this kind are       
undertaken in ,france they generally    
succeed4     ,,chapter ,,xi4       ,the 

,literature of the time being1 principal
 authors4 ,music2 its      ancient date 
in ,france1 performers1 and singers4    
,of the present state of literature in  
,france1 it is not possible to draw a   
very flattering picture2 there is a good
 deal of moderate talent but certainly  
none that is transcendental1 which      
remark may be applied to statesmen1     
orators1 authors1 artists1 etc42 as to  
poetry there appears at present so      
little taste for it1 and writers seem so
 thoroughly aware of its being the case1
 that they have too much good sense to  
attempt to obtrude it upon the public1  
and those who had obtained a certain    
reputation as poets seem to write no    
more4 ,the works of de ,lamartine       
certainly have many admirers1 displaying
 a pleasing style of versification      
fraught with beautiful imagery1 a happy 
arrangement of ideas enwreathed within  
the flowers of language1 but little or  
no originality4 ,as if himself conscious
 of that circumstance1 he brought forth 

his ,chute d'un ,ange 7the fall of an   
angel71 which caused his own fall at the
 same time2 if his sole desire was to   
attain originality1 he gained his point1
 but at the price of common sense2 the  
majority of the public appear to have   
been of this opinion1 and ,m4 de        
,lamartine seems to have passed from    
poetry to politics1 being now one of the
 best and most conspicuous speakers in  
the ,chamber of ,deputies4 ,a certain   
tone runs through ,m4 de ,lamartine's   
works1 that leads one to infer he has   
deeply read and admired ,lord ,byron4   
,m4 ,casimir ,delavigne was a great     
favourite at one period2 it might be my 
want of taste1 or a deficiency in the   
knowledge of the ,french language       
sufficient to relish that class of      
poetry1 but certainly ,i found his works
 laboured and tedious1 and could not in 
spite of all my efforts derive any      
pleasure from their perusal4 ,the       
productions of ,beranger are confined   
within a very small compass1 but        

containing that which causes one to     
regret that his works are not more      
voluminous4 ,the true nerve and genius  
of poetry1 continually sparkling        
throughout his writings1 as a patriotic 
feeling and a generous love of liberty  
formed the principal points in his      
character4 ,the efforts to suppress that
 spirit which was attempted in the reign
 of ,charles ,x called forth the powers 
of his muse1 but since the accession of 
the present monarch to the throne1 as   
all has been conducted on a more liberal
 system1 his pen has lain dormant1 which
 has disappointed all who have read and 
admired those effusions of a free and   
exalted mind1 which he has at present   
published1 and led to the hope that they
 would be continued4 ,of ,victor ,hugo's
 productions ,i need say but little1 as 
they are so generally known in ,england1
 particularly his ,notre-,dame de       
,paris1 which has been dramatised under 
the title of ,quasimodo and acted at    
,covent ,garden1 as well as at other    

theatres1 and few ,i believe there are  
who have not felt some sympathy for     
,esmeralda4 ,when ,victor ,hugo wrote   
this1 the works of ,sir ,walter ,scott  
,i think were bearing upon his mind2 his
 poems and dramatic pieces at one period
 created much sensation1 and undoubtedly
 possess a certain tone of merit4 ,the  
,comte ,alfred de ,vigny is the author  
of one work which may be considered as a
 gem amongst the mass of publications   
which emanate from the ,french press of 
that nature2 it is entitled1            
,cinq-,mars1 an historical novel1 which 
is decidedly one of the best and most   
interesting of any that have appeared   
either in ,england or in ,france for    
several years past2 he has also written 
a tragedy on the subject of the         
unfortunate ,chatterton1 which at the   
time it came out excited a deep         
interest1 but ,m4 de ,vigny1 like many  
of the present literary characters in   
,france1 appears resting on his oars4   
,not so with ,alexandre ,dumas1 whose   

prolific pen appears like himself to be 
ever active2 what with travelling to    
different countries1 then publishing    
accounts of his wanderings1 novels of   
divers descriptions1 detached pieces1   
and dramatic productions1 he must be    
constantly on the qui vive4 ,there are  
very different opinions respecting his  
writings1 they certainly possess a good 
deal of spirit1 some of them            
considerable feeling1 and are generally 
amusing4 ,of novel writers there are    
many1 but unfortunately the bad taste   
prevails of introducing subjects in them
 that prevent their being read by       
females1 with a few exceptions2 those of
 ,balzac are by no means devoid of merit
 and are exceedingly entertaining1 and  
some there are which any one may peruse 
of ,eugene ,sue1 who has lately been    
knighted by the ,king of the            
,netherlands2 the same may be said1     
although of the latter description there
 exist but few4 ,those of ,paul de ,kock
 are well known in other countries as   

well as ,france2 they are very clever   
and exceedingly amusing1 but partake of 
the fault alluded to4 ,as a female      
writer and translator1 ,madame ,tastu   
may be cited as having produced works   
which do credit to her taste and        
judgment4 ,madame ,emile de ,girardin1  
well known as ,delphine ,gay1 is a      
talented writer1 but would have been    
more esteemed had she steered clear of  
political subjects4 ,monsieur and       
,madame ,ancelot both write tales and   
dramatic pieces1 which are justly       
admired2 but the author to whom the     
stage is most indebted is ,scribe1 who  
perhaps is one of the most multitudinous
 writers existing2 his works completely 
made and sustained the ,theatre du      
,gymnase1 besides greatly contributing  
to the success of others4 ,in           
consequence of their having been so much
 translated1 and adapted to the ,english
 stage1 they are almost as well known in
 one country as the other4 ,m4 ,scribe  
is a man who is highly esteemed on      

account of his liberality to literary   
characters1 and his extreme generosity  
to all who are in need of his aid4 ,of  
authors on more solid subjects there are
 not many who now continue to write1    
several of the most conspicuous having  
become completely absorbed in politics2 
of such a description is ,m4 ,guizot1   
whose works are generally known and     
admired1 particularly his ,commentaries 
on the ,english ,revolution2 partly a   
continuation of the same subject1 it is 
stated he has now in preparation1 but   
placed at the helm of the nation1 as he 
now is1 his time is too much occupied to
 be devoted to any other object than    
affairs of state1 and his position is   
such as requires the exertion of every  
power of thought and mind to sustain1   
against its numerous and indefatigable  
assailants4  ,m4 ,thiers owes his       
success in life to his literary         
productions1 and his talents as an      
author are universally admitted2 his    
,history of the ,french ,revolution is  

as well known in ,england as in ,france1
 and generally allowed to be the best   
work upon the subject1 but he is also so
 totally engaged in political affairs1  
that the public cannot derive much      
advantage from the effusions of his pen1
 as it is impossible that they can be   
very voluminous1 when his time and      
abilities are so exclusively            
appropriated to a still more important  
object2 but it is understood that it is 
his intention to afford the world the   
benefit of other works which are now in 
embryo4 ,the same remarks may in a      
degree be applied to ,m4 ,villemain1 who
 has written upon literature1 in which  
he has displayed considerable ability1  
but having become an active ,minister of
 ,instruction1 of his publications there
 is at present a complete cessation4    
,nearly a similar instance may be cited 
in ,m4 ,cousin1 who has written very    
ably upon philosophy and metaphysics1   
but as a peer of ,france1 literature has
 been forced to succumb to politics1 his

 talents also being directed into the   
latter channel4 ,amidst this general    
languor which seems to have come over   
,france1 with regard to the exertions of
 her most eminent authors1 there are a  
few who occupy themselves with history1 
which now appears to be the most        
favourite study with those who devote   
their minds to reading2 the very        
delightful work on the ,norman          
,conquest1 by ,m4 ,thierri1 ,i trust is 
well known to many of my readers1 or if 
not1 ,i wish it may be so1 as it cannot 
do otherwise than give them pleasure2 he
 has written several other things1 and  
amongst the rest ,recit des ,temps      
,merovingiens1 which is highly          
interesting4 ,a work of considerable    
merit1 is l',histoire des ,ducs de      
,bourgogne1 by ,monsieur de ,barante4   
,m4 ,capefigue has published many       
historical productions1 and amongst the 
rest a ,life of ,napoleon1 which is     
perhaps one of the most impartial       
extant1 and very interesting1 as        

containing a sort of recapitulation of  
facts1 without any endeavour to palliate
 such of his actions as stern justice   
must condemn4 ,m4 ,mignet has also      
chosen the path of history1 and has not 
followed it unsuccessfully2 the         
foundation of his present prosperity    
consisting entirely in his writings1    
there are several other authors of minor
 note who have adopted the same course1 
but not any who have created any great  
sensation1 or effected any permanent    
impression on the public4  ,the only    
living author whose name is likely to   
descend to posterity is that of         
,chateaubriand1 who1 although he has    
never been a writer of poetry1 may be   
considered the greatest poet in ,france1
 as there is so much of imagination and 
of soul in his prose1 so much of        
sublimity in his ideas1 that the works  
in verse of his contemporaries appear   
insipid when compared to the wild       
flights of genius which ever emerge from
 his pen1 yet when they are closely     

studied1 and deeply sounded for their   
solid worth1 it will be found that they 
consist merely of beautiful imagery1    
elegantly turned phrases1 a sort of     
flash of sentiment1 which catches the   
ear1 but appeals not to the             
understanding1 a gorgeous               
superstructure1 as it were1 without a   
firm foundation for its basis4 ,as for  
example1 in his preface to ,attila1     
alluding to ,napoleon1 he observes      
,qu'il etait envoye par la ,providence1 
comme une signe de reconciliation quand 
elle etait lasse de punir4 ,which may be
 rendered thus3 that ,napoleon was sent 
upon earth by ,providence as a sign of  
reconciliation1 when she was fatigued   
with punishing2 this is certainly very  
pretty1 but ,i will appeal to common    
sense1 whether there was aught of fact  
to support such an assertion8 ,even     
those who were the most enthusiastic    
admirers of the martial genius of       
,bonaparte1 could not participate in the
 fulsome compliment paid to their hero  

by ,m4 ,chateaubriand2 but when strictly
 scrutinized1 all his works will        
generally be found of the same tissue2  
yet1 as there is so often a wild        
grandeur in his conceptions and in his  
mode of expressing them1 whilst they are
 arrayed in all the grace and beauty    
which language can bestow1 his volumes  
will always find a place in every       
well-assorted library1 when probably    
those of most of the other ,french      
authors of the present period will be   
consigned to oblivion1 excepting such as
 have written upon history1 which will  
always maintain their ground1 as they   
are in a degree works of reference4     
,there are several very clever men who  
write for the newspapers1 or what may be
 styled pamphleteers1 amongst whom are  
,jules ,janin1 and ,alphonse ,karr2 the 
latter publishes a satirical work called
 the ,guepe1 which possesses the talent 
of being very severe and stinging       
wherever it fixes4 ,m4 ,barthelemy has  
written some poetry much in the same    

strain1 which is rather pungent1 but he 
latterly appears to have sunk into the  
same slumber which seems to have        
enveloped so many of the present        
literary men of ,france4 ,m4 ,deschamps 
now and then produces some poetic       
effusions which are pleasing1 and prove 
the author to be possessed of that      
ability which would induce a wish that  
his works were less brief and more      
frequently before the public4 ,but      
taking all into consideration1 this is  
by no means a literary era in ,france2  
the nineteenth century has not yet      
produced any such names as ,montesquieu1
 ,voltaire1 ,rousseau1 and many others1 
who have shed a lustre on the ,french   
name2 there are no doubt many clever men
 still living who have written          
scientific works upon medicine1 surgery1
 natural history1 physiology1 botany1   
astronomy1 etc41 whilst the names of ,de
 ,jussieu and ,arago1 as eminent in the 
latter sciences1 are known all over     
,europe1 as well as many others who are 

celebrated in their different           
departments4  ,although the present age 
is not fecund in the production of      
,french genius as relates to the polite 
arts1 yet there never was a period when 
there was more anxiety for their        
promotion1 and now all classes read2 but
 the reading of the lower orders        
consists principally of a political     
nature2 the newspapers now however have 
what is called a feuilleton1 which      
embraces many subjects1 and appears to  
interest all2 the criticisms on the     
theatrical performances are perused with
 much avidity1 an extreme partiality for
 dramatic representations still forms a 
considerable portion of the ,french     
character1 as also a general love of    
music1 without being at all particular  
as to its quality2 no matter how        
trifling it be1 as long as there is any 
thing of an air distinguishable it will 
please4 ,there are at present a host of 
composers in ,france whose fame will    
probably be not so long as their lives2 

,paris is inundated every year with a   
number of insignificant ballads which   
just have their day1 and if perchance   
there should be one or more that are    
really clever amongst the mass of dross 
which comes forth1 after a twelvemonth  
no one would think of singing it because
 it has already been pronounced         
ancienne1 and it is completely laid     
aside1 and in a few years so totally    
cast in oblivion1 that it cannot even be
 procured of any of the music-sellers1  
or anywhere else3 this was the case with
 some delightful airs which appeared    
about ten years since1 and which are now
 nowhere to be found1 although once     
having excited quite a sensation4 ,the  
,french cannot certainly be considered  
as a musical nation1 yet many of their  
airs are full of life1 and quite        
exhilarating1 whilst others have a      
degree of pathos which touches the      
heart2 still none of their music has the
 nerve1 the depth1 the sterling solidity
 of the ,german1 nor the elegance nor   

grace of the ,italian4 ,yet some        
composers they have whose works will    
have more than an ephemeral fame1       
amongst whom may be cited ,aubert1 whose
 music is not only admired in ,france   
but throughout all ,europe2 another     
author of extreme merit is ,onslow1     
whose productions are not so voluminous 
or so extensively known as those of     
,aubert1 but possessing that intrinsic  
worth which will increase in estimation 
as it descends to posterity3 the        
compositions of ,halevy and ,berlioz    
have also some degree of merit4 ,but    
amongst the numerous productions which  
have emanated from the ,french composers
 for the last fifty years1 one there is 
that for soul and grandeur stands       
unrivalled1 and that is the ,marseilles 
,hymn1 or ,march1 by ,rouget de ,lille2 
perhaps there exists no air so          
calculated to inspire martial ardour1   
and there is no doubt but that it had   
considerable effect upon the            
enthusiastic republicans in exciting    

them to rush into what they considered  
the struggle for liberty and honour2 it 
appears to have been an inspiration     
which must have suddenly lighted upon   
the composer1 as none of his works      
either before or since ever created any 
particular sensation4 ,although of far  
distant date1 the old air of ,henry ,,iv
 must certainly be placed amongst the   
gems of ,french musical composition2    
there is a peculiar wildness in it1     
which gives it a tone of romance1 and   
reminds one of very olden time1 there is
 in it an originality1 a something      
unlike anything else2 the ,breton and   
,welsh airs alone resemble it in some   
degree1 and in both those countries they
 pretend that they are of ,celtic       
origin4 ,music is of very ancient origin
 in ,france3 in #eed profane singing was
 forbidden on holy days2 in #geg1 ,king 
,pepin received a present of an organ1  
from ,constantin ,,vi2 a tremendous     
quarrel occurred between the ,roman and 
,gallic musicians1 in the time of       

,charlemagne1 and two professors are    
cited1 named ,benedict and ,theodore1   
who were pupils of ,st4 ,gregory2 but   
the most ancient melodies extant1 and   
which are perfectly well authenticated1 
are the songs of the ,troubadours of    
,provence1 who principally flourished   
from the year #ajjj to the year #acjj4  
,saint ,louis was a great patron of     
music1 so much so that in #abce he      
granted permission to the ,paris        
minstrels1 who had formed themselves    
into a company1 to pass free through the
 barriers of the city1 provided they    
entertained the toll-keepers with a song
 and made their monkies dance4 ,at that 
period they had as many as thirty       
instruments in use2 the form of some of 
them are now totally lost4 ,rameau is   
the only ,french composer whose name and
 compositions may be said to have had   
any permanent reputation1 which does not
 now stand particularly high out of his 
own country2 ,lulli1 ,gluck1 and ,gretry
 were not born in ,france1 although it  

was their principal theatre of action4  
,it remains to be proved whether the    
works of ,boieldieu will stand the test 
of time1 as also of those composers who 
are still living and are the most       
esteemed4  ,much may be said of the     
,french musical performers1 who         
certainly may be considered to excel    
upon several different instruments1     
particularly on the harp1 which all can 
testify who have ever heard ,liebart4   
,there are also a number of ladies to be
 met with in private society who play   
extremely well2 the same may be said    
with regard to the piano-forte1 but     
although there are many professors who  
astonish by their execution1 yet they   
have not produced any equal to a ,liszt 
or ,thalberg2 ,i have even amongst      
amateurs known some young ladies develop
 a lightness and rapidity of finger     
quite surprising1 and far surpassing    
what ,i have generally met with in      
,england 7except with the most          
accomplished professors71 but ,i do not 

consider that they play with so much    
feeling and expression as ,i have often 
found even with female performers in my 
own country1 and which affords me a much
 higher gratification1 as fingering is  
after all but mechanical1 which may     
astonish1 but will never enchant4 ,on   
the violin they have produced some very 
fine players1 as also upon other        
instruments1 and the bands at their     
operas can hardly be too highly praised4
 ,but their music which has afforded me 
the most delight has been the           
performances of their first masters on  
some of their magnificent organs2 on    
those occasions ,i heard the most       
exquisite feeling and expression        
displayed1 and have known the most      
powerful sensations excited2 this most  
superlative enjoyment ,i have           
experienced at the churches of          
,notre-,dame1 ,st4 ,sulpice1 ,st4       
,eustache1 and ,st4 ,roch1 but it       
happens only on particular and rare     
occasions1 and it is difficult to find  

out when such performances will take    
place2 sometimes it is announced in     
,galignani's paper but not always1 and  
their sacred music is often most        
exquisite particularly that which is    
vocal4  ,in respect to singing1 although
 the ,conservatory of ,music and the    
most talented masters give every        
advantage to the pupil of theory and    
science1 yet they cannot confer a fine  
quality of voice where it has not been  
afforded by nature1 and that deficiency 
,i find generally existing with the     
,french females2 they will often attain 
an extreme height with apparent         
facility1 and even will manage notes at 
the same time so low that no fault can  
be found with the compass of their      
voices1 nor any lack of flexibility2    
their execution being perfectly clean   
and correct4 ,i have frequently heard   
them run the chromatic scale with       
extreme distinctness and apparent ease1 
and acquit themselves admirably in the  
performance of the most intricate and   

difficult passages1 all of which is the 
result of good teaching and attentive   
application of the pupil1 but sweetness 
of tone exists not in their voices1     
which are generally thin and wiry2 they 
want that depth and roundness which     
gives the swell of softness and beauty  
to the sound2 hence there is generally a
 want of expression in their singing as 
well as their playing4 ,of course there 
are exceptions1 and ,madame ,dorus-,gras
 may be cited as such1 as well as many  
others1 who have won the admiration of  
the public4 ,the voices of the men are  
better1 often very powerful1 possessing 
extremely fine bass notes1 but many of  
them have even still a horrid habit of  
singing their notes through the nose4 ,i
 don't know whether it is that they     
regard their nasal promontory in the    
light of a trumpet1 so considering it as
 a sort of instrumental accompaniment to
 their vocal performance1 but although  
it is a practice which is wearing off1  
there is a great deal too much of it    

left4 ,nourrit had none of it1 his voice
 was firm and sweet1 and few men have ,i
 ever heard sing with so much feeling4  
,duprez is also a singer of no common   
stamp1 and of whom any nation might be  
proud1 and ,i have often met men in     
society sing together most delightfully1
 either duets1 trios1 or quartettos1 and
 totally devoid of the nasal twang1 or1 
as the reader will observe1 delightful  
it could not be4     ,,chapter ,,xii4   
,instructions for strangers2 remarks    
upon the feelings and behaviour      of 
the lower classes of the ,parisians4    
,political ideas prevailing      in     
,paris4 ,observations upon the present  
statesmen4   ,there are certain         
regulations to be observed at ,paris    
which we are not accustomed to in our   
own country2 on a stranger's arrival he 
is conducted to an hotel1 either to that
 to which he is recommended1 or he fixes
 upon one of which he hears the most    
extravagant praises from persons who    
attend with cards1 and even throw them  

into the carriage before it stops2 on   
whichever the traveller may make his    
selection the same plan is to be        
followed1 make your arrangement as to   
price before you install yourself1      
either per day1 per week1 or per month2 
you may make your agreement to take your
 meals from the people of the hotel1 or 
to send for it from a restaurateur1 or  
to go and dine at one1 as you may think 
proper2 the latter plan is found the    
most agreeable for a stranger1 as he    
sees more of the people by so doing1 and
 can try several different restaurants1 
which he will find very amusing1 and    
some of them1 from the beautiful manner 
of fitting up1 are well worth seeing2   
the prices vary from a franc to six or  
seven francs1 according to their        
celebrity4 ,every hotel has a porter1 to
 whom you must give your key whenever   
you go out1 and then the mistress of the
 house is answerable for anything which 
may be missing1 but if you leave your   
key in the door whilst you are absent1  

you cannot make any claim for whatever  
may have been lost2 at night1 on the    
contrary1 after the gates are shut1 when
 you retire to bed1 and you let it      
remain outside1 should anything be      
stolen1 the mistress is accountable1 as 
it is supposed that when all is closed  
in1 everything is then under the        
safeguard of the porter1 for whose      
conduct the mistress is considered      
liable4 ,according to the style of the  
hotel in which you take up your abode1  
the porter will expect remuneration2 at 
one that is moderate1 and not in a      
first-rate situation1 six sous a day is 
sufficient1 but in most hotels about the
 fashionable quarters half a franc is   
the usual sum expected2 for this your   
bed is made1 your boots and shoes       
cleaned1 as also your room1 and your    
clothes brushed2 they likewise take in  
messages or letters1 and answer all     
enquiries respecting you1 direct the    
visiters to your apartment1 etc41 but if
 you send them out anywhere1 no matter  

how short the distance1 they always     
charge at least ten sous for it2 it is  
one of the dearest things ,i know in    
,france1 that of charging for every     
little errand or commission4  ,at some  
of the hotels there are commissioners   
who make offers of their services1 to   
conduct strangers to different shops or 
warehouses1 for the purpose of making   
their purchases1 but too much reliance  
must not be placed on those gentry1 as  
they often exact contributions from the 
shopkeepers for bringing travellers to  
their shops1 when they naturally must   
charge so much the more upon the goods  
in order to pay the commissioner4       
,tradesmen from ,london particularly are
 often misled in that manner1 but in    
proceeding to such establishments as    
those ,i have stated1 which are         
respectable wholesale houses1 such as   
,messrs4 ,bellart1 ,louis1 ,delcambre1  
for lace1 ribband1 and silk1 #bter ,rue 
,choiseul1 etc41 they will never be     
deceived2 ,i will also add another      

establishment which has existed for many
 years and always conducted their       
business on equitable terms1 being that 
of ,m4 ,langlais-,quignolot1 ,no4 #aj1  
,rue ,chapon1 where he executes orders  
for ,london on a most extensive scale   
for net gloves1 purses and reticules4   
,he lives in the neighbourhood where    
many of the wholesale houses are        
situated1 and would willingly inform any
 stranger of the most respectable in the
 different branches required4 ,the      
different articles to be seen at ,m4    
,langlais' warehouse are got up in a    
most superior style and at prices so    
reasonable1 that it is quite surprising 
when compared to the charges made for   
the same goods in ,london1 where        
undoubtedly they have duty and carriage 
to pay4 ,he has lately brought into     
vogue some most beautiful little purses 
called ,rebecca1 being exactly in the   
form of the pitcher with which she is   
represented at the well2 their          
appearance is most ornamental1 and      

although very small they distend so as  
to hold as much as most ladies would    
like to lose in an evening at cards4 ,m4
 ,langlais has already sent over numbers
 to ,london1 which must now be making   
their appearance in ,regent ,street1 but
 ,i recommend my countrywomen when at   
,paris to pay him a visit themselves1 as
 he does not refuse a retail customer   
although his is a wholesale house2 he   
has a most extensive assortment of all  
varieties of purses and net gloves and  
reticules1 from which numbers of shops  
in ,paris and ,london are supplied1 and 
of course being the fountain head the   
articles may be procured on advantageous
 terms of ,m4 ,langlais4  ,there is one 
precaution ,i would recommend all       
travellers to adopt1 and that is always 
to keep their passports1 about them2 in 
case they happen to pass any exhibition 
or building that is open to a stranger  
on producing his passport1 it is well to
 be provided with it1 or if he should   
meet with any accident1 or that any     

casuality should occur1 it will always  
be found useful4 ,when you arrive at the
 port where you disembark in coming from
 ,england1 your passport is taken from  
you and sent on to ,paris1 and what is  
called a ,carte de ,surete is given you 
instead1 for which you pay #b francs2   
this you must give to the mistress of   
the hotel where you lodge at ,paris1 and
 she will procure your original passport
 for you from the police1 or if you     
choose you may go for it yourself1 and  
save the charge of the commissioner who 
would be employed to fetch it4 ,in      
returning to ,england1 you take it to   
the ,english ,ambassador's to be signed1
 and from thence to the police for the  
same purpose1 but only state that you   
are going to the port from whence you   
are to embark1 as if you say that you   
are going to ,england they send you to  
the ,minister of ,foreign ,affairs for  
his signature1 where there is a charge  
of ten francs1 which there is not the   
slightest necessity of incurring4 ,i    

have been very often from ,paris to     
,london and never paid by following the 
plan ,i have stated1 but for a permit to
 embark there is always #cj sous to pay1
 at the port on quitting the country4   
,in all the diligences throughout       
,france the places are numbered1 and he 
who comes first has the first choice1 in
 which case most persons choose ,no4 #a1
 but others who prefer sitting with     
their backs to the horses select ,no4   
#c2 this excellent regulation prevents  
any kind of dispute about seats4 ,if you
 have much luggage you are required to  
send it an hour or so before the coach  
starts1 and in travelling by the        
,malle-,poste 7or ,mail7 if your trunk  
be very large1 and weighty1 they will   
not take it1 therefore you must         
ascertain that point when you take your 
place2 it is always sent by a diligence 
which follows1 but a delay is occasioned
 which sometimes proves inconvenient4   
,the mails are dearer than the          
diligence1 and some go eleven miles an  

hour4  ,with regard to posting1 the     
price is #b francs each horse for a     
miriametre or six miles and a quarter1  
and as many horses as there are persons 
in the carriage must be paid for2 #ae   
sous is what should be given to the     
postillion1 but most people give a      
franc4 ,the posting is entirely in the  
hands of government1 and where the      
horses are kept is not always an inn2   
but wherever it may be1 printed         
regulations are kept to which the       
traveller may demand a reference1 if he 
imagine its rules are not fulfilled4    
,for #d francs a book may be purchased  
which gives a most detailed account of  
every thing connected with posting2 all 
the charges must be paid in advance4    
,coaches may be hired in ,paris at from 
#bj to #cj francs a day1 with which you 
may go into the country1 but must be    
back before midnight4 ,an excellent and 
most useful establishment will be found 
at ,no4 #di1 ,rue de ,miromenil1        
,faubourg ,st4 ,honore1 called          

,etablissement d',amsterdam1 where there
 are above #cjj carriages constantly    
kept1 either for hire1 for sale1 or for 
exchange2 it is also a locality where   
persons may sell or deposit their       
carriages for any period of time they   
think proper1 and can likewise have it  
repaired if required2 they will besides 
find every description of harness and   
sadlery4 ,horses also are taken in to   
keep1 or bought or sold4 ,the           
establishment is most complete in all   
its appointments1 is very extensive and 
kept in the most perfect state of order4
 ,there are some carriages amongst the  
immense variety that may thoroughly     
answer the purpose for travelling1 which
 can be procured at extremely low       
prices1 whilst others there are1 very   
handsome and perfectly new1 which are of
 course charged in proportion4 ,the     
proprietors are extremely civil1 and    
ever ready to show their premises to any
 visiter who may wish to see them4  ,a  
fiacre1 or hackney coach1 is #cj sous   

each course1 for which you may go from  
barrier to barrier1 which might be five 
miles2 but if you only go a few yards   
the price is the same4 ,if you hire it  
per hour the first is #de sous and      
afterwards #cj sous2 after midnight1 #b 
francs each course and #c per hour2 a   
few sous are always given to the        
coachman1 which may be varied according 
to the length of the course4 ,chariots  
are #be sous per course1 #ce first hour1
 afterwards #cj4 ,cabriolets #bj sous   
the course and first hour #ce1          
afterwards #cj2 but as all these prices 
are subject to change with new          
regulations1 it is not worth while to   
give any farther detail4 ,the ,general  
,post-,office is in the ,rue            
,jean-,jacques ,rousseau1 but there are 
other places where you may put in your  
letters for ,england1 although not many 
if you wish to pay4 ,in the exchange    
there is a box for receiving letters for
 all parts2 and in the square to the    
left is an office where you can pay your

 letter1 which is always #dj sous to    
,london if it be not over weight4       
,whatever you bring over that is liable 
to pay duty at the custom-house1 if you 
take it back with you on your return to 
,england1 on producing the articles and 
the receipt of what you have paid1 you  
can reclaim whatever you have disbursed2
 this particularly applies to carriages 
and to plate1 only you must not neglect 
to demand a receipt at the time you pay1
 and to take care of it1 as ,i have     
known many instances of persons losing  
them1 and then their reclamations are   
useless4 ,i have never found them very  
severe in the custom-houses in ,france1 
but am convinced that the best plan on  
both sides of the water is to give your 
keys to the commissioner of the inn     
where you put up2 by displaying no      
anxiety on the subject1 the officers    
conclude that you have not any thing of 
importance1 and will pass your things   
over more lightly than if you were      
present1 as when witnesses are by they  

like to preserve the appearance of doing
 their duty strictly4 ,i have seen some 
of the ,english bluster and go in a     
passion about having their things       
tumbled about1 as they expressed it1 but
 it only makes matters worse4 ,i have   
known the searchers in those cases to   
turn a large chest completely           
topsy-turvy1 so that not a single       
article has escaped examination1 and the
 whole has had to be re-packed4 ,it is  
at best an unpleasant tax upon          
travellers1 but it is always better     
policy to submit to it with a good      
grace4  ,the passport is a grievance    
which is much complained of by          
,englishmen1 and certainly it does      
appear an infraction on liberty1 that it
 should not be possible to go from one  
part of the country to another1 without 
having to obtain permission2 but it has 
other advantages3 a criminal in ,france 
can very seldom escape2 by the          
regulations of the police it is almost  
impossible for them to evade detection1 

as wherever he sleeps his passport must 
be produced1 and every master or        
mistress of every description of        
lodging-house is bound to give an       
account of whatever stranger sleeps     
under their roof1 to the police1 and    
their officers2 or the gendarmes1 are   
authorised to demand the sight of the   
passport of any person whom they may    
suspect4 ,in ,england a passport is not 
so necessary1 because being an island   
the means of escape are not so easy1 as 
they must either embark at some port or 
they must hire a boat on their own      
account1 or enter into some proceeding  
which leads to discovery2 and           
notwithstanding those obstacles to      
leaving the country1 and the extreme    
vigilance of our police1 felons do very 
often escape1 and murders remain        
undiscovered1 as those of ,mr4          
,westwood1 ,eliza ,greenwood1 and many  
others4 ,but those who are invested with
 authority in ,france sustain it with a 
more courteous demeanour than is the    

case in ,england1 consequently it is    
less offensive4 ,if your passport be    
asked for1 it is in a polite manner1    
whereas with the ,english1 give the     
butcher or the blacksmith the staff of  
office as constable1 and he exercises   
his brief authority very frequently in a
 manner which is not the most engaging4 
,although a politesse and refinement of 
expression united with a smutted face1  
tucked-up sleeves1 an apron and rough   
coarse hands1 has something in it of the
 ludicrous1 yet it softens the brutality
 to which uncultivated human nature is  
ever prone1 but instances of such       
inconsistencies sometimes occur which   
cannot otherwise than excite a smile2 a 
few days since a working man dropped a  
knife1 a dirty looking boy of about #ab 
years of age picked it up1 and presented
 it to the owner1 with some degree of   
grace1 saying1 ,render unto ,caesar that
 which is ,caesar's4 ,passing through   
the ,rue des ,arcis1 which is a mean    
narrow street1 at one of the lowest     

descriptions of wine-houses where       
dancing was going forward1 perhaps      
amongst fishwomen and scavengers1 ,i    
noticed a large lantern hanging out over
 the door1 upon which was inscribed1    
,bal seduisant1 le ,paradis des ,dames1 
which may be translated1 ,seductive     
,ball1 the ,paradise of ,ladies4 ,the   
traveller may remark on the road from   
,boulogne to ,paris and within a few    
leagues of the latter1 in a small       
village at a house little better than a 
hut1 where the insignia of a barber is  
displayed1 a board on which is written2 
,ici on embellit la nature1 or ,here we 
embellish nature4  ,even in the lowest  
classes the ,french must have a little  
bit of sentiment1 and amongst them      
marriages occur principally from        
affection1 but almost always with the   
consent of the parents2 it is lamentable
 to think how many young couples destroy
 each other because they cannot obtain  
the sanction of the father or mother to 
one of the parties1 and these mistaken  

lovers really think it less crime to    
commit suicide than to marry against the
 consent of their parents1 which they   
are by law empowered to do1 provided    
that they have three times made what is 
called les sommations respectueuses1    
that is1 having three times respectfully
 asked their permission1 without having 
obtained which1 they cannot marry if not
 of age under any circumstances2 but    
when no longer minors1 and that they    
have conformed to what the law          
prescribes1 they may be united          
notwithstanding the opposition of their 
parents1 but it is a case which scarcely
 ever occurs4 ,there is much more of    
family attachments and bond of union    
between relations in ,france than there 
is with us1 and at marriages1 funerals1 
and baptisms1 the most distant cousins  
are all brought together to be present  
at the ceremony1 which amongst the      
higher and middle classes has rather a  
pleasing effect2 the bride arrayed in a 
long white flowing veil decorated with  

orange flowers has a most interesting   
appearance4 ,before being performed at  
the church1 it must be registered at the
 mayoralty4  ,when any one is deceased1 
black drapery is hung up outside the    
house1 and the coffin is brought within 
sight and burning tapers fixed around   
it1 and every one who passes takes off  
his hat1 and if he chooses1 sprinkles it
 with holy water2 chaunting over the    
coffin at the church is sometimes       
continued for two hours1 and the effect 
is very impressive4 ,wherever the       
funeral procession proceeds along the   
streets every one who meets it takes off
 his hat2 in fact in no country is there
 more respect paid to the dead4 ,when a 
child has lost both its parents1 it     
generally happens that some relation    
will take it1 even sometimes a second or
 third cousin2 this will happen often   
amongst the poorer people1 they hold it 
as a sort of sacred duty for relations  
to assist each other1 a feeling that ,i 
could wish to see more general in       

,england1 as ,i have known too many     
instances where even brothers exhibited 
instances of affluence and poverty4 ,in 
my own neighbourhood1 there was a case  
of a ,mr4 ,n4 living in good style1 with
 livery servants1 etc41 and his own     
brother working for him at #as4 #h;d4 a 
day as a common labourer1 although his  
fall in life had been entirely caused by
 misfortune and not by his prodigality  
or mismanagement2 such a circumstance   
could not have existed in ,france2 the  
peasants would have hooted the rich     
brother every time he showed his face4  
,the ,french people are too apt to take 
those affairs in their own hands1 and   
express their indignation in no         
unmeasured terms4 ,they are very prone  
to act from the impulse of the moment1  
and are easily aroused in any cause     
where they consider injustice has been  
enacted1 and many of the persons        
concerned in the press are well aware of
 this1 and by most artfully turned      
arguments they work up their passions   

either for or against a party1 as       
circumstances may render it fitting for 
their purpose4  ,but although some of   
the newspapers have certainly had some  
fire-brand articles against ,england1   
yet it does not appear to me to have had
 any effect of exciting a hatred against
 the ,english4 ,i have never seen in any
 one instance any manifestation of such 
a feeling2 in fact the ,french are much 
in the habit of separating the          
government from the people1 and even the
 most hostile portion of the press      
observe that there are amongst the      
population in ,england numbers of       
individuals of the most exalted         
characters2 hence the ,french do not    
consider that the people are amenable   
for the faults of their government1 and 
are inclined to imagine those of every  
country more or less corrupt4 ,they     
never had a very exalted opinion of     
their own2 perhaps the most popular     
ministry they have had for the last     
thirty years was that of ,m4 ,martignac1

 which ,charles ,x so suddenly dismissed
 and thereby laid the first foundation  
for the glorious three days4 ,with the  
present government ,i should say that   
the majority of the people appear       
disposed to be passively satisfied1 not 
so much from a feeling of approbation of
 its proceedings1 but fearing that were 
there a change it might be for the      
worse2 with the present they have the   
assurance of peace1 and tranquillity1   
and all manufacturing and agricultural  
,france know how destructive war would  
be to their present prosperity2 of this 
none are more sensible than the         
,parisians1 as it is really astonishing 
what sums of money the ,english nobility
 expend even whilst they are residing in
 ,england1 with the tradesmen in ,paris1
 principally for articles of art and    
luxury but also for a great portion of  
that which is useful as well as         
ornamental2 and imagining that many of  
my readers may have as great an aversion
 to copying letters as myself and at the

 same time be aware of the necessity    
under many circumstances of keeping a   
duplicate1 ,i must not forget to mention
 an extremely useful invention which    
adds another evidence of the prolific   
ingenuity of ,france4 ,it consists in a 
machine for copying letters1 registers1 
deeds1 or in fact any description of    
written document1 or stamped1 or in     
relief1 by which they can be repeated   
even a thousand times if required and in
 a very short space of time2 there have 
been many who have attempted to attain  
the same object and have had a partial  
success1 but those of ,m4 ,poirier1 ,no4
 #ce1 ,rue du ,faubourg ,st4 ,martin1   
appear to unite advantages which none of
 the preceding ever attained4 ,they are 
called1 ,presses                        
,auto-,zinco-,graphiques4 ,for the merit
 of this invention he has been granted a
 patent1 and awarded a medal by the     
,central ,jury1 appointed to examine the
 specimens of art and ingenuity sent to 
the ,national ,exhibition established   

for the purpose of bringing them before 
the public4 ,for merchants1 solicitors1 
and all persons keeping several clerks  
such a machine must be a great          
acquisition1 as in addition to the      
copies being effected more rapidly than 
would be possible by hand1 where there  
are numbers of letters of which         
duplicates are requisite1 the labour of 
one clerk at least must be saved4 ,m4   
,poirier has them executed in so        
beautiful a manner that they really are 
quite a handsome piece of furniture1    
some of which are as high as #cej fr4   
but the prices gradually descend to even
 as low as #aj fr4 which are so         
contrived for travelling that they      
contain pen1 ink and paper and only     
weigh one pound4 ,i here subjoin the    
opinion of the ,central ,jury addressed 
to ,m4 ,poirier4 ,these presses are     
certainly the best executed of any which
 have been exhibited4 ,their merit      
consisting in superior execution1 cannot
 be too much encouraged1 as the happiest

 ideas often fail in the realisation1   
therefore that the jury may not be      
deficient in recompensing ,m4 ,poirier  
they award him the bronze medal4  ,all  
parties regard ,m4 ,guizot 7,minister of
 ,foreign ,affairs7 as a talented man2  
and one of considerable firmness of     
character1 who unflinchingly maintains  
his ground whilst a host are baying at  
him1 appearing as unmoved as the rock   
that is pelted by the storm2 he seems   
never taken by surprise1 but is ever    
ready with such answers and explanations
 as generally baffle his accusers2 still
 he cannot be called a popular minister1
 because he is known to possess what is 
called the ,anglo-mania1 that is1 to    
have a most decided predilection for    
everything that is ,english1 and there  
is no doubt that he wishes to do all in 
his power to conciliate ,england1       
without sacrificing the interests and   
honour of his country2 but in that      
respect his enemies think that he would 
not be too delicate1 but is determined  

to have peace with ,england a tout prix 
7at any price74 ,m4 ,guizot is a        
protestant and was a professor in the   
,university4  ,his immediate opponent1  
,m4 ,thiers1 has risen to eminence      
entirely by his writings2 he came to    
,paris from ,aix in ,provence 7in       
#ahbj71 and lived in a room on the      
fourth floor in the ,rue ,st4 ,honore2  
here he wrote for the newspapers1 but   
being taken by the hand by ,m4 ,lafitte 
he and his works speedily rose into     
notice2 it is possible that he may be as
 anxious for the welfare of his country 
as ,m4 ,guizot1 but would carry things  
with a higher hand1 and although every  
one is aware of his extraordinary       
abilities1 yet the moderate and thinking
 part of the community remember how near
 he was involving ,france in a war with 
her most powerful neighbours1 and       
however they smarted for a time under   
what they conceived an affront offered  
to their country1 yet there are very few
 now but feel fully sensible of the     

benefits they derive from the blessing  
of peace having been preserved4 ,m4     
,thiers may be cited as one of the most 
animated and effective speakers of any  
in the ,chambers1 and his speeches often
 display a brilliance1 energy1 and      
ardour1 which create a forcible         
impression1 but sometimes betray the    
orator into hasty assertions1 of which  
he may afterwards repent1 but feeling   
too much pride to recant1 he prefers    
standing by the position he had hastily 
assumed2 consequently1 he is then       
compelled to marshal all his powers of  
argument to sustain that which in his   
own mind he may feel convinced is       
erroneous4 ,yet although many from      
prudential motives did not approve his  
policy1 which had nearly involved       
,france in hostility with ,england1 they
 rather admired the spirit and          
susceptibility which he displayed in    
resenting the slight with which the     
,french nation had been treated1 and    
looked upon him as a sort of champion of

 their cause1 so that he may be rather  
designated a popular statesman than     
otherwise1 although he was considered in
 the wrong on that one point1 and the   
reflexions which he flung upon ,england 
would have passed away as unmerited1 and
 soon sunk into oblivion1 had not a     
portion of the ,english press so        
indulged in abuse and ridicule of the   
,french at that period1 who often remark
 that they were subdued by the allies   
combined1 but that it is only the       
,english press which is as it were      
triumphing over and insulting them1 by  
pretending such a superiority in their  
troops and seamen as to place those of  
,france in a most contemptible light1   
whilst all the other powers1 although   
equally their conquerors1 give them     
credit for being a brave military       
nation4 ,i must confess that ,i have    
found more liberality in the ,french    
with regard to rendering the merit due  
to the ,english troops1 than in any     
other country1 and ,i remember a work   

which came out in ,berlin upon military 
movements1 tactics1 etc41 and in a      
parenthesis was this sentence1 ,it is   
well known that the ,english1 though    
excellent sailors1 are inferior as      
troops to those of the other ,european  
powers4 ,i should have thought that the 
,prussians who have fought with us would
 have known better of what metal        
,english soldiers were composed4 ,but to
 return to ,m4 ,thiers2 ,i should still 
say notwithstanding all that has past1  
his talents are held in such estimation1
 that certain changes might occur which 
would again place him at the helm of the
 nation4  ,having given a slight sketch 
of the two political chiefs who as it   
were head the most powerful contending  
parties1 ,i must be still more brief in 
my notice of the other statesmen whose  
names1 acts and speeches are before the 
public1 amongst the most conspicuous of 
whom is ,odilon ,barrot1 who is what may
 be termed decidedly liberal1 or in     
plainer language radical1 and has long  

sustained his cause with talent1 energy1
 and consistence2 he speaks well and    
boldly1 and has hitherto acted in that  
manner which might be expected from the 
tenor of his speeches2 sometimes however
 persons become calm1 what others would 
call moderate1 or a slight tint         
manifests itself in the colour of their 
politics1 perhaps rendering them more   
harmonious with the reigning parties1   
but which accord not with the ideas of  
the most staunch advocates of a more    
ultra liberal system2 this appears to be
 somewhat the case with ,m4 ,odilon     
,barrot1 whose adherents judge from the 
support he gave to ,thiers1 that he is  
not so warm in the cause as themselves2 
however he still may be considered the  
chief of that division of the ,chamber  
which he has always led4 ,m4 ,mauguin   
was at one time the most violent of the 
same party1 but during his visit to ,st4
 ,petersburg he appears to have had such
 an affectionate hug from the ,russian  
,bear1 that he has latterly espoused the

 cause of ,bruin1 and would if he could 
induce ,france to throw ,england        
overboard altogether1 and cast herself  
entirely into the arms of ,russia4  ,m4 
,arago1 the celebrated astronomer1 has  
ever proved himself an honest           
undeviating radical1 both in his        
speeches and his actions4 ,as an orator1
 many give the palm to ,m4 ,berryer1 but
 as his party is not numerous1 being    
carlist1 his talents do not receive the 
general appreciation that they would1   
had he attached himself to a more       
popular cause1 but he deserves much     
credit for having faithfully and        
constantly adhered to his principles4   
,m4 ,lamartine1 the poet1 who professes 
to be independent of any party1 is also 
a very admired speaker1 and so was      
,sebastiani1 but now he is passing fast 
into the vale of years1 and has lost    
that spirit and energy which formerly   
gave much force to his speeches4 ,m4    
,mole is another of those statesmen who 
has filled the most important political 

stations1 but now is getting old and    
more quiet4 ,as to dilating upon the    
merits and demerits of those persons who
 compose the present ministry1 it would 
be but time lost1 as they are so often  
changed in ,france that their brief     
authority is often brief indeed1 and    
with the exception of ,m4 ,guizot1 7who 
is certainly a host within himself71 and
 ,marshal ,soult1 there is not any      
character that is particularly          
prominent1 or remarkable for any        
extraordinary talent4 ,the career of the
 ,marshal is1 ,i presume1 well known to 
most of my readers1 and the manner in   
which he was received in ,england proves
 the degree of estimation in which he   
was there held4 ,he was the son of a    
notary at ,st4 ,amand1 where he was born
 in #agfi1 being the same year which    
gave birth to ,napoleon1 ,wellington1   
and ,mehemet ,ali4 ,admiral ,duperre1   
the ,minister of ,marine1 served with   
great credit to himself throughout the  
war1 and commanded the force which      

defeated our attempt to take the ,isle  
of ,france1 in #ahaj1 and the naval     
portion of the expedition employed in   
the capture of ,algiers1 was placed     
under his orders4 ,there are yet a good 
many men whose names have been long and 
well known in the political world1 who  
still take a more or less active part in
 the affairs of the nation1 amongst whom
 may be cited the ,baron ,pasquier1     
,president of the ,chamber of ,peers2   
,m4 ,sauzet1 ,president of the ,chamber 
of ,deputies1 and the ministers         
,duchatel for the interior1 ,cunin      
,gridaine for commerce1 ,teste for      
public works1 and ,lacave ,laplagne for 
finances2 to whom may be added the ,duke
 de ,broglie1 the ,comte ,montalivet1   
,dufaure1 ,joubert1 ,salvandy1          
,delessert1 ,isambert1 ,ganneron1 etc41 
also the brothers ,dupin1 the eldest    
highly celebrated as an avocat1 and the 
younger 7,charles71 for his writings    
upon the naval department1 upon         
statistics in general1 and a very clever

 work upon ,england4 ,amongst the       
extreme radicals1 ,ledru ,rollin may be 
cited1 ,general ,thiard1 ,marie1 a      
barrister of rising talent1 and a young 
man named ,billaud1 who is coming       
forward1 and considered to be rather a  
brilliant speaker4 ,the foregoing names 
include several men who have had much   
experience1 and possess moderate        
abilities1 merely passable as orators1  
but having a fair practical knowledge of
 political business1 but not men of     
exalted genius1 or such whose names will
 be likely to figure in the page of     
history2 perhaps it may be with truth   
said1 that the best statesman ,france   
now possesses1 or even ever has         
possessed1 is the ,king1 it being very  
doubtful whether any of his ministers1  
or indeed any member of either of the   
chambers1 is blest with that deep       
discernment and profound knowledge of   
human nature which he has displayed1 by 
the correctness of his calculations upon
 the pulses of his subjects1 under the  

most trying difficulties1 and which have
 enabled him to weather the storm4      
,,chapter ,,xiii4       ,the theatres1  
present state of the drama1 and         
principal performers4      ,collections 
of paintings4   ,it is rather           
extraordinary that in this age of       
superlative refinement1 the drama should
 rather be upon the decline than        
otherwise in regard to the talent of the
 performers1 but it appears to me that  
such is really the case both in ,england
 and ,france4 ,i can just remember when 
,mrs4 ,siddons1 ,john ,kemble1 ,charles 
,kemble1 ,young1 ,mrs4 ,jordan1 ,irish  
,johnson1 ,munden1 ,emery1 etc4 so well 
sustained the character of the ,english 
stage4 ,alas6 shall ,i ever see the like
 again8 ,theatrical representations in  
,france have had a similar decline1     
although two stars there are who uphold 
her histrionic fame with superior eclat1
 ,mlle4 ,rachel for tragedy1 and ,bouffe
 for comedy2 it would be useless for me 
to attempt any description of the powers

 of the former1 as she is as well known 
in ,london as in ,paris1 but with the   
latter my readers ,i believe are only   
partially acquainted2 he has been in    
,london1 but ,i rather think only made  
but a short stay1 certainly a more      
perfect representation of ,french nature
 it would be impossible to imagine2 even
 although he undertake ever so opposite 
a description of character1 the simple  
truth would be given in them all2 he has
 not recourse to grimace or buffoonery1 
or any exaggerated action1 but seems not
 to remember he is counterfeiting a     
part1 but appears to make the case his  
own1 and not to have another thought    
than that which must be supposed to     
occupy the mind of the individual he is 
personifying4 ,pleased with ,bouffe to  
our heart's full content1 we look around
 amongst all the range of actors to find
 some approach to his inimitable talent1
 not being so unreasonable as to hope to
 discover his equal1 but our search ends
 in disappointment1 we seek in vain for 

the representatives of ,perlet1 ,odry1  
,laporte1 and ,potier1 to whose comic   
powers we are indebted for many a       
laughing hour1 but they are now         
replaced1 as well as many other of our  
old acquaintances1 by substitutes who   
are but sorry apologies for those we    
have lost2 however1 although the ,french
 theatre has certainly retrograded in   
respect to its dramatics personae1 it   
has gained surprisingly with regard to  
scenery1 decorations1 and costumes1     
which very considerably enhance the     
interest of a theatrical performance1   
particularly when it is historical1 and 
it is a satisfaction to know that no    
pains are spared to render the drapery  
as exact as possible to that worn at the
 period the piece is intended to        
represent2 thus you have the most       
accurate peep into olden times that can 
possibly be afforded1 and ,paris offers 
such extreme facilities for ascertaining
 what description of dress was adopted  
at any particular age1 by means of their

 immense collection of engravings1 and  
written descriptions1 contained in their
 old books1 and manuscripts1 which are  
freely produced to any individual on    
making the proper application4 ,of these
 advantages the managers of the theatres
 avail themselves to the utmost extent1 
which enables them to be extremely      
correct1 not only with regard to the    
habiliments1 but also the scenery1 and  
all the accessoires are rendered        
strictly in keeping with the century in 
which the events recorded have occurred4
  ,the ,italian ,opera in ,paris is     
considered to be managed with great     
perfection1 the company is much the same
 with regard to the principal singers as
 our own1 consisting of ,grisi1         
,persiani1 ,albertazzi1 ,lablache1      
,tamburini1 ,rubini1 ,mario1 etc41 as   
they can be obtained1 according to their
 engagements in ,london or elsewhere1   
and the operas performed are also       
similar1 therefore any description of   
either would be superfluous2 altogether1

 the enjoyment afforded is not so great 
as at our own1 as no ballet is given1   
and the coup-d'oeil is not so splendid  
as in ours4 ,the ,theatre de la         
,renaissance is devoted to the          
performance of the ,italian ,opera1 it  
is situated in the middle of a small    
square1 opposite the ,rue ,mehul1 which 
turns out of the ,rue ,neuve des ,petits
 ,champs1 from which it is seen to the  
best advantage2 the facade has a        
handsome appearance1 with the statues of
 ,apollo and the nine ,muses1 supported 
by doric and ionic columns4 ,the prices 
of the places are from ten francs to two
 francs1 which last is the amphitheatre2
 the intermediate charges are seven     
francs ten sous1 six francs1 five1 four 
and three francs ten sous the pit1 and  
it is capable of containing #b1jjj      
persons4 ,the performance begins at     
eight4  ,the ,french ,opera1 or         
,academie ,royale de ,musique1 in the   
,rue ,pelletier1 near the ,boulevard des
 ,italiens1 has nothing very striking in

 its external appearance1 but the       
arrangements and decorations of the     
interior are certainly extremely        
handsome1 and everything is conducted on
 a most superior scale2 the scenery and 
costumes are here in perfection1 the    
arrangements and accommodations for     
seats are excellent4 ,the great strength
 of the vocal performance consists in   
,duprez and ,madame ,dorus ,gras1 to    
whom ,i have before alluded1 and whose  
reputation is too well established to   
need any comment4 ,they are ably        
seconded by ,levasseur1 ,madame ,stolz  
who is well known in ,london1 and the   
fine deep voice of ,baroilhet1 ,boucher1
 ,massol1 and ,mademoiselle ,nau1       
possess a moderate share of talent1     
there are also others whose abilities   
are of minor force but sufficient to    
support the subordinate roles4 ,the     
orchestra and chorusses are extremely   
good and numerously composed1 and on the
 whole it may be considered that they   
get up an opera in a very superior      

manner4 ,the ballet at this theatre was 
formerly the greatest treat that could  
be imagined1 derivable from performances
 of that nature1 but at the present     
period the strength they possess in that
 department is by no means efficient4   
,carlotta ,grisi stands alone as having 
with youth any degree of talent above   
mediocrity2 the same can hardly be said 
of ,mademoiselle ,fitzjames1 and ,madame
 ,dupont2 ,noblet is past that age which
 is indispensable in exciting interest  
as a dancer1 notwithstanding she has    
still considerable ability1 and there   
are not any others who are worth        
mentioning amongst the females4 ,of the 
men1 when ,petitpa is cited as having a 
grade more of ability than the rest1    
nothing more in the shape of praise can 
be added with respect to their present  
corps de ballet4 ,this theatre is also  
capable of containing #b1jjj persons1   
and the prices are from #b francs #aj   
sous to #i francs1 the pit is #c francs 
#ab sous1 and there are as many as #bj  

different parts of the house cited with 
their respective charges4 ,they         
sometimes begin at #g1 more often #a_/b 
past1 but never later4  ,the ,theatre of
 the ,comic ,opera is situated in the   
rue ,marivaux1 ,boulevard des ,italiens1
 and the facade with its noble columns  
has a very fine effect1 which is fully  
equalled by the decorations of the      
interior4 ,chollet1 still remains their 
principal singer2 his voice is good1 so 
is his knowledge of music1 but he is now
 no longer young nor ever was handsome1 
but always a favourite with the public2 
he is supported by ,roger who takes the 
roles of young lovers1 by ,grard who has
 a fine bass voice1 and ,mocker with a  
good tenor2 amongst the females is our  
countrywoman ,anna ,thillon1 who is     
exceedingly admired1 and at present the 
great attraction1 she is pretty1 lively1
 or sentimental1 as her part may        
require1 her voice is pleasing and it   
may be said that she is quite a pet with
 the ,parisians2 she is an excellent    

actress1 and appears at home in every   
part she undertakes4 ,mademoiselle      
,prevost has for many years sustained a 
certain reputation as one of the        
principal singers at this theatre1 for  
my own part ,i always thought her rather
 heavy and a want of feeling and        
expression both in her acting and       
singing4 ,madame ,rossi ,caccia1        
although only just returned from ,italy1
 belongs to the company1 she has a most 
admirable voice and is a great          
acquisition to the theatre1 at which1 on
 the whole1 the amusements are of the   
most delightful description4 ,the prices
 are from #cj sous to #g francs #aj     
sous4 ,they begin at #g4  ,the          
,theatre-,francais in the ,rue          
,richelieu holds the first rank1 for the
 drama1 of any theatre in ,france1 where
 ,talma1 ,duchesnois1 ,mars and ,georges
 have so often enchanted not only the   
,french public1 but persons of all      
nations who were assembled in ,paris1   
and on these boards ,mlle ,rachel now   

displays her magic art2 nor are the     
attractions of ,mlle ,plessis to be     
passed over unnoticed1 but as she has   
lately been to ,london1 my country      
people can form a better judgment of her
 than from any description ,i can give4 
,mlle ,anais is an actress who has been 
and is still rather a favourite1        
although now not young4 ,mlle ,mantes is
 a fine woman upon a large scale1 plays 
well and has been many years on the     
stage1 but never created any sensation2 
,mlle ,maxime rather stands high in the 
public estimation2 ,mlle ,noblet and    
,mme ,guyon possess moderate talent     
acquit themselves well1 and are much    
liked1 generally speaking4 ,at present  
,ligier is considered their best        
tragedian1 but principally owes what    
fame he has1 to their actors in that    
department being of so mediocre a       
description1 some people prefer         
,beauvallet but not the majority1 their 
abilities are very nearly of the same   
stamp4 ,guyon is a fine young man1 and  

plays the parts of young heroes very    
fairly4 ,geffroy is another1 possessing 
sufficient merit to escape condemnation4
 ,as comic actors they have ,regnier who
 may be placed upon the moderate list2  
,samson is certainly much better1 and in
 fact by no means destitute of talent1  
which may decidedly be also stated of   
,firmin2 ,provost is likewise a very    
passable actor4 ,comedy is indeed their 
fort1 it is far more pure than ours2 ,i 
remember making that remark to the      
celebrated ,john ,kemble at the time he 
was residing at ,toulouse1 and adding   
that ,i considered our comic actors gave
 way too much to grimace and buffoonery4
 ,kemble replied1 ,don't blame the      
actors for that1 it is owing to the bad 
taste of the audience1 by whom it is    
always applauded1 and a thoroughly      
chaste performance1 without some        
caricature1 would not stand the same    
chance of success4 ,the prices at the   
,theatre ,francais are from #a fr4 #e   
sous varying up to #f fr4 #ab sous1     

according to that part of the house in  
which you choose your seat2 they begin  
sometimes #a_/d before #g4  ,the        
,theatre du ,gymnase1 on the ,boulevart 
,bonne-,nouvelle1 was once one of the   
most successful of any in ,paris1 but it
 does not sustain the high reputation it
 formerly possessed4 ,bouffe is now its 
principal support1 and has indeed a most
 attractive power2 there are also other 
actors of merit1 as ,klein1 ,numa1      
,tisserant1 and ,volnys1 who sustain    
their respective parts extremely well2  
but when performing with such a star as 
,bouffe1 their minor talents are        
eclipsed1 and little noticed4 ,mad4     
,volnys 7formerly ,leontine ,fay7 still 
retains that high reputation which she  
has so long and so justly merited1 she  
ever was a most charming and natural    
actress4 ,mesdames ,julienne1 ,habeneck 
and ,nathalie are all rather above      
mediocrity1 so that this theatre still  
affords the dramatic amateur much       
rational enjoyment4 ,they commence at   

#f1 and the prices range from #a fr4 #e 
sous1 to #e fr4  ,the ,theatre des      
,varietes always has been and is still a
 great favourite1 where they play       
vaudevilles1 a sort of light comedy1    
which are generally highly amusing2 they
 have always contrived to have actors at
 this theatre who were sure to draw full
 houses1 and that is the case at        
present4 ,lafont is an excellent actor  
and a very fine looking man1 he has     
performed in ,london2 ,lepeintre yields 
to few men for the very general         
estimation in which his talents are     
held2 ,levassor is a man of very        
gentlemanly appearance1 not at all      
wanting in assurance1 and always at his 
ease in every role he is destined to    
fill4 ,for females they have ,mesdames  
,flore1 ,bressant1 ,boisgontier1 ,esther
 and ,eugenie ,sauvage1 the first rather
 too much inclined to embonpoint1 but   
playing her part none the worse for     
that1 the last an actress of great      
merit1 whilst the others act so well    

that one would wonder what they wanted  
with so many2 besides which they have   
several others who are above mediocrity1
 and a few hours may be passed any      
evening most agreeably at this theatre4 
,the performances commence at #g1 the   
prices are the same as at the ,gymnase  
with regard to the minimum and maximum1 
but having altogether nineteen different
 intermediate specifications4  ,the     
,theatre du ,palais-,royal1 forming the 
corner of the ,rues ,montpensier and    
,beaujolais1 and having an entrance in  
the ,palais-,royal1 is one of the most  
successful in ,paris1 and one of the    
very few which have proved good         
speculations1 and they continue to have 
such excellent actors as cannot fail to 
attract4 ,a4 ,tousez has much ability   
and is very comic1 ,m4 and ,mad4        
,lemesnil1 ,m4 and ,mad4 ,ravel are very
 clever in their respective parts1      
,sainville is not less so2 then amongst 
their first rate actresses they have    
,dejazet1 who has been highly           

appreciated in ,london1 ,mlle ,pernon1  
young1 talented1 and pretty1 and ,mlle  
,fargueil1 handsome1 and though         
youthful1 already an excellent actress4 
,the pit is only #a fr4 #e sous1 from   
which it rises to #e fr4 for the best   
seats4 ,they begin at half-past six4    
,the ,vaudeville ,theatre is facing the 
,exchange in the ,place de la ,bourse1  
and retains a very good share of the    
patronage of the public2 their          
performances are1 for the most part1    
very good1 and the pieces which are     
mostly played1 are such as the name of  
the theatre indicates4 ,felix and       
,lepeintre jeune are much liked1 ,bardou
 is an excellent actor1 ,arnal a famous 
low comedian1 ,m4 and ,mad4 ,taigny     
possessing very fair talent1 and are    
called the pretty couple4 ,mesdames     
,doche and ,thenard not without merit1  
and on the whole their corps dramatic is
 much above mediocrity4 ,their light1   
comic1 and amusing little pieces are    
well calculated to chase away a heavy   

hour4 ,they commence at a quarter past  
seven1 and the prices are much the same 
as at the ,variete4  ,to the ,porte ,st4
 ,martin ,i have already alluded1       
situated on the ,boulevart of the same  
name1 although they often give very     
interesting pieces as melodramas1 light 
comedies1 etc41 and always had some very
 good actors1 yet it has seldom had the 
success to which the exertions of the   
proprietors were entitled4 ,after a     
total failure the theatre has been      
re-opened1 and amongst the actors there 
are some of known talent2 ,frederick    
,lemaitre may be considered their       
brightest star1 once so celebrated in   
the role of ,robert ,macaire1 ,clarence1
 ,raucour1 ,bocage1 and ,melingue       
sustain their parts very fairly1 and the
 same may be said of ,mesdames ,klotz   
and ,fitzjames1 who are more than       
passable actresses4 ,the pieces begin as
 low as twelve sous1 and rise to six    
francs4 ,the performances commence at   
seven4  ,the ,ambigu ,comique is a      

theatre situated on the ,boulevart ,st4 
,martin1 and also for melodramas and    
vaudevilles2 it has not been much more  
fortunate than its neighbour the        
,theatre ,porte ,st4 ,martin1 and the   
representations are very similar at     
both4 ,st4 ,ernest1 as an actor1 and    
,madame ,boutin1 as an actress1 appear  
to be the favourites amongst rather a   
numerous company1 of which some are far 
from being indifferent performers4 ,the 
prices are very modest1 commencing at   
only ten sous1 and elevating to four    
francs2 it begins at seven4  ,the       
,gaiete1 on the ,boulevart du ,temple1  
is another theatre of much the same     
description2 at present1 however1 the   
company is considered to be very good3  
the strength consisting of ,neuville1   
the brothers ,francisque and ,deshays1  
and of the females1 ,madame ,gautier1   
,clarisse1 ,leontine1 ,abit1 and        
,melanie are considered the best4 ,some 
pieces have come out at this theatre    
that have had a great run4 ,the prices  

begin at eight sous and rise to five    
francs4 ,they also commence at seven4   
,the ,theatre des ,folies ,dramatiques  
is likewise on the ,boulevart du        
,temple1 and varies very slightly from  
the last1 except being one grade        
inferior1 and the prices in proportion1 
commencing at six sous1 and not mounting
 higher than two francs five sous1 and  
yet the performances are often not by   
any means contemptible4 ,they begin at  
half-past six4  ,m4 ,comte has a theatre
 in the ,passage ,choiseul where        
children perform1 which may be          
considered as a sort of nursery for the 
theatres in general2 but what afford the
 most amusement are his extraordinary   
feats of legerdemain1 which are         
certainly wonderfully clever4 ,the      
prices are from about one franc to five 
francs4  ,although ,i have left it to   
the last1 ,i must not entirely omit to  
mention the ,odeon theatre1 to which ,i 
have already adverted2 little can be    
judged from it at present1 having only  

just re-opened4 ,mlle4 ,george is       
endeavouring1 in the eve of her days1 to
 afford it the support of her now       
declining powers2 she is however ably   
sustained by ,achard4 ,vernet also is a 
good actor1 and they have others who are
 by no means deficient4 ,it begins at   
#g1 and the prices are from #a franc to 
#e4  ,in addition to those ,i have      
already stated1 there are about a dozen 
more theatres1 inducting such as are    
just outside the ,barriers1 and although
 theatrical speculations have generally 
been very unfortunate recently1 yet it  
does not appear to arise so much from   
the want of audiences1 but from paying  
the great performers too highly1 and    
having too many of all descriptions4    
,there are besides several public       
concerts1 of which the one styled       
,muzard's1 in the ,rue ,neuve-,vivienne1
 is the best2 the price of entrance to  
most of them is #a franc4 ,several      
public balls are constantly going       
forward in gardens during the summer1   

and in large saloons in the winter2 they
 are mostly attended by the lower order 
of tradespeople1 or by females of       
indifferent character1 except in the    
,carnival1 and then more respectable    
characters go to the masked balls at the
 theatres which are the most expensive2 
the ladies however only as spectators1  
generally speaking1 but their           
attractions are too irresistible to     
many1 for them to suffer the season to  
pass over without once joining the gay  
throng1 particularly to some who have a 
great delight in mystifying a friend or 
acquaintance1 and telling them a few    
home truths under the protecting shield 
of a mask1 having opportunities of so   
doing at the public balls without fear  
of being recognised2 whereas concealment
 at private masquerades can seldom be   
preserved to the last4 ,it is most usual
 for ladies who visit the theatres to   
see the masked balls only to remain in a
 box with their party1 and from thence  
to view the motley group2 there are     

however some females even of rank who   
cannot resist the charm of going        
entirely incognito1 to puzzle and       
perplex different persons whom they know
 will be there1 only confiding to one or
 two dearest friends their little       
enterprise1 to whom they recount the    
adventures of the evening4  ,all        
strangers sojourning at ,paris are      
generally directed to devote their      
earliest attention to the ,gallery of   
,pictures at the ,louvre1 and ,i had    
intended to have bestowed much space to 
that object1 but ,i find such excellent 
works published on that subject at only 
one or two francs1 that ,i would        
recommend my readers to furnish         
themselves with one and take it with    
them to the ,louvre when they go there2 
they can procure them of ,m4 ,amyot1    
,no4 #f1 ,rue de la ,paix1 where they   
will also find almost every publication 
they are likely to require1 and will    
meet with the utmost civility and       
attention4 ,there are continually       

changes taking place in the arrangements
 of the pictures1 consequently it would 
be impossible to give any correct       
numerical indications4 ,the works of    
,rubens are particularly numerous1 but  
,i should not say they were the chefs   
d'oeuvre of that great artist1 the women
 are so fat and totally devoid of grace2
 ,i have seen several of his pictures in
 the great ,collection at ,vienna which 
,i like much better4 ,the ,louvre may be
 also considered rich in the works of   
,titian1 some fine subjects by ,guido1  
,murillo1 ,correggio1 and ,paul         
,veronese1 of which the ,marriage in    
,cana is supposed to be the largest     
detached picture in the world2 and many 
of the figures are portraits1 as of     
,francis ,i1 ,mary of ,england1 etc41   
who were contemporaries with the artist2
 in fact there are some paintings of    
almost every celebrated ,italian and    
,spanish master4 ,the ,dutch and        
,flemish school is extremely rich1      
particularly in ,vandycks1 but as might 

be expected specimens of the ,french    
school are the most numerous1 the       
principal gems of which are by ,claude  
,lorraine1 ,poussin1 and ,le ,brun1     
infinitely superior to the productions  
of the present day4 ,there are besides  
many pictures by ,french artists of the 
time of ,david1 ,gerard1 ,gros1 etc41   
which ,i consider generally inferior to 
some of those of their best painters now
 living4  ,there are several private    
collections that are well worth the     
attention of the visiter2 amongst the   
number is that of ,marshal ,soult1      
consisting of some of the most exquisite
 ,murillos1 ,i should decidedly say the 
happiest efforts of his pencil1 but ,i  
believe since ,i saw them he has sold   
some of the best to an ,english         
nobleman4 ,the gallery of ,m4 ,aguado   
7,marquis de ,las ,marismas71 contains  
undoubtedly some very fine subjects of  
the ,spanish school1 and others that    
have considerable merit1 but out of the 
great number of paintings which are     

assembled together the portion of copies
 is by no means small2 still there is   
sufficient of that which is very good to
 afford great pleasure to the amateur4  
,the residence of the ,marquis was in   
the ,rue ,grange-,bateliere1 and it is  
to be presumed that1 notwithstanding his
 decease1 the establishment will be kept
 up as before4 ,the collection of the   
,marquis de ,pastoret1 in the ,place de 
la ,concorde1 is well worth visiting if 
you have a good pair of legs and lungs1 
for ,i believe you have upwards of a    
hundred steps and stairs to mount2 but  
an ample reward will be afforded in     
viewing some very clever small cabinet  
paintings by celebrated ,italian1       
,french and ,flemish masters4  ,the     
,baron d',espagnac has at his hotel in  
the ,rue d',aguesseau a selection of    
paintings which may be considered one of
 the most recherchee in ,paris2 a       
landscape by ,dominichino is quite a    
gem1 and he has scarcely a painting in  
his numerous collection but must be     

admired2 his copy of the ,last ,supper  
by ,leonardo da ,vinci is perhaps the   
best that has ever been executed1 and   
affords a most exact idea of the        
original1 which is now1 alas6 nearly if 
not entirely defaced4 ,to see these1 as 
well as many other very excellent       
private collections1 it is merely       
necessary to write to the owner and the 
request is immediately granted4  ,mr4   
,rickets1 an ,english gentleman living  
at ,no4 #i1 ,rue ,royale1 has about #djj
 pictures1 amongst which are some of    
considerable merit and particularly     
interesting1 either for the execution1  
the subjects1 or certain associations   
connected with them2 this selection     
presents a singular variety of styles1  
wherein may be recognised all the most  
celebrated schools2 some of the smaller 
pictures are executed with the most     
exquisite delicacy and require long     
examination to form an adequate         
appreciation of their merit4 ,this      
collection is only accessible through   

the medium of an introduction4 ,as many 
purchasers of pictures often want them  
cleaned and restored1 ,i would recommend
 them to a countryman for that purpose1 
,m4 ,penley1 ,no4 #aa1 ,rue ,romford1   
whose efforts ,i have seen effect a     
complete resuscitation upon a dingy and 
almost incomprehensible subject4        
,,chapter ,,xiv4       ,the concluding  
,chapter2 application of capital1       
information for      travellers1 prices 
of provisions4   ,one of the first      
measures to be adopted on arriving in   
,france1 is to acquire the knowledge of 
the value of the coin1 which is indeed  
rather intricate2 first a sou1 or what  
we should call a halfpenny1 is four     
liards or five centimes2 then there are 
two sou pieces1 which resemble our penny
 pieces2 there is likewise a little     
dingy looking copper coin1 with an ,n   
upon one side and #aj centimes on the   
other1 that is also two sous2 they once 
had a little silver wash upon them1 but 
it has now disappeared4 ,next there is a

 little piece which looks like a bad    
farthing1 rather whitish from the silver
 not being quite worn away1 which passes
 for a sou and a half or six liards4 ,we
 then rise to a quarter franc1 or #e    
sous1 which is a very neat little silver
 coin2 next the half franc1 then a      
fifteen sous piece1 which is copper     
washed over with silver1 with a head of 
,louis on one side and a figure on the  
other2 double the size but exactly      
similar is the #cj sous piece2 the franc
 is #bj sous1 the two francs #dj sous1  
both of which are neat silver coin1 as  
also the #e francs piece4 ,the gold     
circulation consists in ten1 twenty1 and
 forty franc pieces4 ,there are no notes
 in ,paris for less than #ejj francs1   
which are of the ,bank of ,france2 the  
visiter on arriving in ,paris will      
require to change his ,english money1   
and there are many money changers2 ,i   
have had transactions with most of them1
 but have found ,madame ,emerique1 of   
,no4 #cb1 ,palais-,royal1 ,galerie      

,montpensier1 7there is an entrance also
 ,rue ,montpensier1 ,no4 #bb17 the most 
liberal and just of any1 and ,i am quite
 certain that any stranger might go     
there with a total ignorance of the     
value of the money he presented1 and    
would receive the full amount according 
to the state of exchange at the time4   
,much credit is due to ,madame ,emerique
 from our country-people with regard to 
her conduct respecting stolen ,bank of  
,england notes2 she takes great pains to
 obtain a list of such as are stolen1   
that she may not be unconsciously       
accessary in aiding the success of      
crime1 by giving the value for that     
which had been obtained by theft1 and   
adopts every means that the presenters  
should be detained2 if all the money    
changers were as particular in that     
respect1 thieves would derive no benefit
 in coming over to ,france with their   
stolen notes4 ,the office of ,madame    
,emerique has been the longest          
established of any1 and the high        

respectability of her family and        
connexions are a certain guarantee for  
the foreigner against being imposed     
upon4 ,the number of hotels in ,paris is
 immense2 as ,i always frequent the same
 which ,i have known for nearly #bj     
years1 of course ,i can recommend it1   
both as regards the extreme             
respectability of the persons by whom it
 is kept and the moderation of the      
charges2 it is situated at ,no4 #ga1    
,rue ,richelieu1 and is called the      
,hotel de ,valois1 ,baths abound in     
,paris1 but the ,bains ,chinois1        
,boulevart des ,italiens1 are of the    
oldest date1 and have been visited by   
the most illustrious persons4 ,amongst  
the rest1 the proprietor declares that  
,william the ,fourth attended them at   
the time he was sojourning incognito at 
,paris4 ,amongst the numerous list of   
,bankers1 those which are most          
frequented by the ,english are ,madame  
,luc ,callaghan and ,son1 ,no4 #dj1 ,rue
 de la ,ferme-des-,mathurins2 ,monsieur 

le ,baron ,rothschild1 ,rue ,laffitte1  
and ,messrs4 ,laffitte1 ,blount and     
,comp41 ,no4 #eb1 ,rue                  
,basse-du-,rempart4  ,amongst the       
multitude of interesting spots which    
surround ,paris1 ,versailles is         
pre-eminent1 not only for the grandeur  
of the palace1 the beauty of the        
gardens1 etc41 but it has now received  
so many objects of art1 and its         
collection of pictures is so immense1   
that it may be considered the ,museum of
 ,france2 but there are so many works   
written upon it1 and its description    
must be so voluminous to render it any  
justice1 that ,i must content myself    
with referring my readers to those      
publications which have already appeared
 on the subject4 ,st4 ,cloud1 ,st4      
,germains1 ,st4 ,denis and              
,fontainebleau are too remarkable to be 
lightly touched1 particularly the two   
latter1 upon which there are            
publications giving the most ample      
details of all which they contain that  

is interesting2 those works therefore ,i
 must also recommend for the visiter's  
perusal4  ,before ,i bid adieu to my    
readers1 ,i must not omit to mention an 
institution formed in ,paris1 which does
 honour to the ,english character2 it is
 entitled the ,british ,charitable      
,fund1 and was founded in #ahbb1 under  
the patronage of the ,british           
,ambassador1 and is entirely supported  
by voluntary contributions1 for the     
purpose of relieving old and distressed 
,british subjects1 or of sending them to
 their native country2 suffice it to    
say1 that there have been within the    
last ten years #aa1ejj persons relieved1
 and #b1ega sent to ,great ,britain4    
,there are quite a host of steam-boat   
establishments1 having their agents and 
offices in ,paris1 but that for which   
the agency has been confided to ,m4     
,chauteauneuf1 ,no4 #h1 ,boulevart      
,montmartre1 embraces so wide a field   
that ,i consider in recommending my     
readers to him1 ,i afford them the      

opportunity of obtaining all the        
information they can require upon the   
subject2 the ,company could not have    
selected any one more capable of        
fulfilling the duties of such an office1
 as besides his extreme civility and    
attention to all applicants1 he speaks  
many different languages1 as ,french1   
,english1 ,spanish1 ,italian1 etc4 ,the 
boats for which he is agent proceed from
 ,dunkirk to ,st4 ,petersburg1 touching 
direct at ,copenhagen1 and privileged by
 the ,emperor of ,russia2 the passage is
 effected in #f or #g days4 ,dunkirk to 
,hamburg in #cf or #dj hours1           
corresponding with all the steamers on  
the ,baltic and the ,elbe4 ,dunkirk to  
,rotterdam in #aj or #ab hours1         
communicating with all the navigation   
upon the ,rhine4 ,boulogne to ,london by
 the ,commercial ,steam ,company4       
,antwerp to ,new ,york1 touching at     
,southampton2 ,marseilles to ,nice1     
,genoa1 ,leghorn1 ,civita ,vecchia1     
,naples1 ,sicily1 ,malta and the        

,levant1 by the steamers of the         
,neapolitan ,company4 ,the above vessels
 are fitted up in the most efficient and
 solid manner1 with ,english machinery4 
,at ,lyons there is a corresponding     
office for the navigation of the        
interior1 held by ,messrs4 ,jackson1    
,dufour1 and ,comp41 ,no4 #g1 ,quai ,st4
 ,clair4 ,m4 ,chateauneuf is very       
obliging in explaining all the details  
of the different tarifs of the custom   
duties of the various countries with    
which the steamers communicate4  ,a very
 great convenience exists in ,paris1    
which ,i think much wanted in ,london1  
and that is what are termed ,cabinets de
 ,lecture1 where you may read all the   
principal papers and periodical         
pamphlets for the small expense of #c   
sous2 some are higher1 where ,english   
newspapers are taken1 when the price is 
five sous2 they are mostly circulating  
libraries at the same time4 ,but those  
who wish to see all or the greater part 
of the ,london and some provincial and  

foreign papers1 will find them at       
,galignani's1 and at an ,english reading
 room established in the ,rue ,neuve    
,st4 ,augustin1 ,no4 #ee1 near the ,rue 
de la ,paix2 at both these              
establishments the admittance is ten    
sous4 ,the only ,english newspaper at   
present published in ,paris is by       
,galignani1 which contains extracts     
judiciously selected from the ,french   
and ,english papers1 besides other      
useful information4  ,the investment of 
capital in land in ,france will rarely  
produce more than #ca_/b per cent and   
very frequently less2 in the purchase of
 houses in ,paris #e or #ea_/b1         
sometimes #f1 is obtained2 in the funds 
about #da_/b4 ,numbers of persons in    
,france place their money on hypotheque1
 or mortgage1 by which they make #e per 
cent2 the affair is arranged by means of
 a notaire1 but often the most lucrative
 manner of placing money is what is     
called en commandite1 that is1 they     
invest a fixed sum in different         

descriptions of business1 from which    
they receive a certain share1 not       
appearing in the concern otherwise than 
having deposited a stated amount of     
money in it1 for which alone1 in case of
 bankruptcy1 they are liable4 ,a        
considerable portion of the ,french lend
 their money to different tradespeople1 
getting the best security they can1     
sometimes merely personal2 #f per cent  
is the regular interest that is given1  
and it is a very rare case that the     
capital is lost1 as the lender takes    
great precautions in ascertaining the   
exact state of the borrower's affairs4  
,although rents are so immensely high in
 the centre of ,paris1 one house1 ,no4  
#ajd1 ,rue ,richelieu1 letting for      
#abj1jjj francs1 7#d1hjjl47 a year1 yet 
as you diverge in any direction towards 
the walls of the city a house may be had
 for much less under the same           
circumstances than in ,london1 and just 
outside a substantial dwelling of eight 
or ten rooms1 with an acre of garden    

beautifully laid out1 will only be      
#djl41 a year4 ,some of the villages    
round ,paris are very agreeably         
situated1 but are dreadfully cut up by  
the fortifications1 particularly the    
favourite spot of the ,parisians1 the   
,bois de ,boulogne1 where many families 
amongst the tradespeople go and pass    
their whole ,sunday under the trees2 and
 the innumerable rides and walks through
 the wood1 and its very picturesque     
appearance tempt all ranks at all hours 
of the day2 part of it remains unspoiled
 by the walls and forts constructing for
 the defence of ,paris1 but it was much 
to be regretted that any portion should 
have been destroyed for an object1 the  
utility of which still seems an enigma4 
,as prices of provisions are so         
constantly varying that ,i determined to
 leave them entirely to the last1 that  
,i might be enabled to give the latest  
information respecting them2 in most    
instances they are much dearer than they
 were a few years since1 particularly   

meat1 which now may be quoted on an     
average of #h;d4 a pound1 and veal1 if  
the choice parts be selected1 #a;d4 or  
even #b;d4 more at some seasons1 but    
joints where there is much proportion of
 bone may be had for #g;d42 best wheaten
 bread is at present #ac_/d;d41 a pound2
 butter1 best quality1 s4 #f;d42 cheese 
#aj;d4 ,poultry is much higher than     
formerly2 a fine fowl #cs4 a duck1 #bs42
 a goose #ds42 a turkey #fs4 and much   
dearer at some periods of the year2     
pigeons' eggs #ha_/b;d4 each2 a hare    
#ds42 a rabbit #as4 #f;d4 ,vegetables   
are generally pretty cheap1 potatoes    
hardly #a_/b;d4 a pound1 cauliflowers1  
brocoli1 and asparagus at a much less   
price than in ,london2 the finer sorts  
of fruits1 as peaches1 nectarines1      
apricots1 greengages1 grapes1 etc41 are 
very reasonable1 but on the whole ,paris
 is very little cheaper than ,london2   
the principal difference is in the wine1
 which is to be had at all prices from  
#e;d4 to #es4 a bottle1 but by arranging

 with the ,maison ,meunier1 #bb1 ,rue   
des ,saints-,peres1 the house ,i have   
recommended1 by taking a certain        
quantity1 very good ,bordeaux may be    
had1 which will only come to about #as4 
#f;d4 a bottle4 ,fuel is the dearest    
article in ,paris2 coals1 of which there
 is not much consumption1 are           
considerably higher than in ,london1 but
 yet much cheaper than burning wood4 ,in
 the best part of ,paris a well         
furnished sitting and bed room is #dl4 a
 month2 in other parts only half the    
price4 ,brandy and liqueurs are much    
cheaper than in ,england2 beer from     
#b;d4 to #d;d4 a bottle1 but taking a   
cask it comes cheaper4 ,best white sugar
 #aj;d4 ,tea from #ds4 upwards1 coffee  
#bs4 to #cs4 ,it must be remembered that
 the pound weight in ,france has two    
ounces more than in ,england4  ,there is
 one peculiarity the stranger should    
remark in ,paris which will much assist 
him in finding a house he may be        
seeking2 the even numbers are always on 

one side of a street and the odd on the 
other and in all the streets running    
south and north the numbers commence    
from the ,seine1 so that the farther you
 get from the river the higher the      
figure amounts2 and1 as you proceed from
 that source the even numbers will be   
found on the right side and the uneven  
on the left4 ,those streets which run   
east and west commence their numbers    
from the ,hotel-de-,ville1 or           
,town-,hall1 the even numbers also being
 on the right hand side and uneven on   
the opposite4         99       99       
99       99       99  ,aware that my    
countrymen are ever amateurs of         
engravings1 lithographies1 etc41 ,i must
 repair the omission of having forgotten
 to mention ,mr4 ,sinnett1 the only     
,english publisher of engravings living 
in ,paris1 and as he has an enthusiastic
 passion for the arts1 accompanied by   
the most correct judgment1 the selection
 of his subjects are such as cannot fail
 to gratify every person of taste2 he   

also acts as an agent both for the      
,paris and ,london print-sellers1 and by
 the arrangements into which he has     
entered1 is enabled to furnish          
individuals with engravings of both     
countries on the most advantageous      
terms1 foregoing those charges which it 
is customary to impose under similar    
circumstances4 ,the ,english have it1   
therefore1 in their power to procure    
from ,mr4 ,sinnett any print1 whether   
published in ,england or ,france1 at a  
lower price than in any other house in  
,paris4 ,his address is ,no4 #ae1 grande
 rue ,verte1 faubourg ,saint-,honore4   
,,the ,,end4       ,,index4             
,pages4   ,abattoir                     
#bae   ,academic royale                 
#bjg   ,actors et actresses             
#cif to #djd   ,agriculture             
#cg   ,arago                            
#ahf1 #cia   ,archives                  
#bcg   ,arches1 triumphal               
#db1 #bgj   ,armour                     
#baf   ,army                            

#cec   ,arsenal                         
#bbe   ,artificial flowers              
#cbf   ,artists                         
#ccd   ,athenaeum                       
#cei   ,auber                           
#cfi   ,authors                         
#cfj    ,balls                          
#dje   ,bank                            
#beg   ,bankers                         
#daa   ,barriers                        
#de   ,barrot4 ,odilon                  
#cij   ,bears                           
#agg   ,beranger                        
#cfa   ,berryer                         
#cia   ,bievre                          
#ahb   ,boarding house                  
#bgi   ,boarding-schools                
#cdh   ,bonnets                         
#ccb   ,boots                           
#bhi   ,bouffe                          
#ajg   ,boulevart                       
#ajj   ,boulogne                        
#bf   ,bourse                           
#bei   ,breakfasts                      
#acg   ,bronze                          

#cda    ,cabriolets                     
#cgi   ,cafe ,hardy                     
#dje   ,calais                          
#bd   ,canes                            
#cai   ,caps                            
#ccb   ,carnival                        
#dje   ,carriages                       
#cgi   ,catacombs                       
#ahf   ,cavalry                         
#ceb   ,cercles                         
#acf   ,chamber of ,deputies            
#bbj   ,chamber of ,peers               
#bja   ,champs-,elysees                 
#db1 #bgh   ,champ de ,mars             
#baf   ,chapelle ,beaujon               
#bge   -- ,episcopal                    
#bgf   -- ,expiatoire                   
#bgf   -- ,marboeuf                     
#bgh   -- ,sainte                       
#aga   ,chateaubriand                   
#cff   ,china                           
#cja   ,churches1 ,abbaye-aux-,bois     
#bad   -- ,l',assomption                
#if1 #cfi   -- ,la ,madeleine           
#djj   -- ,notre-,dame                  

#fi1 #dgb   --   des ,blancs-,manteaux  
#bcf   --   des ,victoires or des       
,petits-,peres                          
#beg   --   de ,loretto                 
#bei   -- ,saint-,ambroise              
#bcb   -- ,saint-,denis                 
#bce   -- ,sainte-,elisabeth            
#bdf   -- ,saint-,etienne-du ,mont      
#aij   -- ,saint-,eustache              
#bed   -- ,saint-,francois-d',assises   
#bcg   -- ,saint-,francois-,xavier      
#bag   -- ,st4-,germ4-l',auxerrois      
#fa1 #bcg   -- ,st-,germain-des-,pres   
#fa1 #bje   -- ,saint-,gervais          
#bci   -- ,st-,jacques-du-,haut-,pas    
#ahi   -- ,saint-,laurent               
#bdh   -- ,saint-,leo-et-,saint-,gilles 
#bea   -- ,saint-,louis en ,i'lle       
#agd   -- ,ste4 ,marguerite             
#bbh   -- ,st4 ,medard                  
#ahd   -- ,st4 ,merry                   
#hh1 #bdb   -- ,st4                     
,nicholas-des-,champs                   
#bdb   -- ,st4 ,nicholas-du-,chardonnet 
#aic   -- ,st4 ,paul et ,st4 ,louis     

#bch   -- ,st4 ,philippe-du-,roule      
#bge   -- ,st4 ,pierre-de-,chaillot     
#bgi   -- ,st4 ,pierre-du-,gros-,caillou
                                        
#bah   -- ,st4 ,roch                    
#ig1 #bgc   -- ,st4 ,severin            
#aie   -- ,st4 ,sulpice1                
#bjc   -- ,st4 ,thomas-d',aquin1        
#baj   -- ,st4 ,vincent-de-,paul1       
#beh   -- ,lutherien1                   
#bci   -- ,oratoire1                    
#bff   -- ,sorbonne1                    
#aif   -- ,val-de-,grace1               
#ahd   -- ,visitation1                  
#bbf   ,clothes1                        
#bhg   ,coiffeur1                       
#cag   ,coffee-houses1                  
#acg   ,collections of pictures1        
#djg   ,colleges1 ,bourbon1             
#bgf   -- ,charlemagne1                 
#bcc   -- ,henry ,,iv1                  
#aia   -- ,de ,france1                  
#aib   -- ,louis-le-,grand1             
#aia   -- ,st4 ,louis1                  
#aih   -- ,irish1                       

#aij   -- ,scotch1                      
#aij   -- ,sorbonne1                    
#aif   ,colours1                        
#cjj   ,columns1                        
#dc1 #ajc1 #bbf   ,conservatory of ,arts
 et ,trades1                            
#bdc   -- of music1                     
#beh   ,convents of ,benedictines1      
#bde   -- ,carmelites1                  
#bjb   -- ,english ,augustines1         
#aij   -- ,dames de ,st4 ,thomas1       
#bad   -- ,lazarists1                   
#bad   -- ,noviciat religieuses         
,hospitalieres1                         
#bad   -- ,sacre-,coeur1                
#bab   ,copying machine1                
#chf   ,crockery1                       
#bic   ,custom-,house1                  
#chj   ,cutlery1                        
#bja    ,diligences1                    
#cgh   ,dinners1                        
#aje   ,dress1                          
#abc   ,dressing-cases1                 
#cjb   ,dyeing et cleansing1            
#cjd    ,earthen-ware1                  

#bic   ,ecole militaire1                
#bae   ,economy1                        
#bhf   ,education1                      
#abd   ,elysee-,bourbon1                
#bgd   ,engravings1                     
#dag    ,fancy ,stationary1             
#bid   ,fashions1                       
#cbd   ,fiacres1                        
#cgi   ,flowers1                        
#ajb    ,principal ,fountains4          
,fountain1 ,boulevart-,st4 ,martin1     
#aji   -- des ,champs-,elysees1         
#db1 #bgh   -- du ,chatelet1            
#beb   -- ,cuvier1                      
#ahb   -- de ,grenelle1                 
#baa   -- du marche des ,innocents1     
#bec   -- de la place de la ,concorde1  
#dc   -- de la ,place ,richelieu1       
#bfj   ,funerals1                       
#chd    ,garde-,meuble1                 
#dc1 #beh   ,gardens1 des ,plantes1     
#age   -- ,luxembourg1                  
#bjj   -- ,tuileries1                   
#bgb   ,george-,mademoiselle1           
#djd   ,glass1                          

#cja   ,gloves1                         
#ccj   ,gobelin tapestry1               
#acb   ,guizot1                         
#cfd1 #chg   ,guns1                     
#cab    ,haberdashery1                  
#cbb   ,hats1                           
#bhh   ,homeopathie1                    
#bhj   ,horsemanship1                   
#ach    ,principal ,hospitals4          
,d',accouchement1                       
#ahe   ,blind1                          
#bbg   ----- ,children1                 
#aid   ,deaf and ,dumb1                 
#ahh   ,hotel-,dieu1                    
#agd   ,incurables 7men71               
#bdh   ---------- 7women71              
#bad   ,invalids1                       
#baf   ,orphan1                         
#ahh   ,de la ,pitie1                   
#aha   ,salpetriere1                    
#aha   ,st4 ,louis1                     
#bdg   ,sick children1                  
#bad   ,val-de-,grace1                  
#ahd   ,hotels de ,cluny1               
#aig   -- de ,carnavalet1               

#bcd   -- des ,invalides1               
#baj   -- de la ,monnaie1               
#bjf   -- de ,soubise1                  
#bch   -- de ,sully1                    
#bcc   -- de ,valois1                   
#daa   -- de ,ville1                    
#bdj    ,institut1                      
#bjg   ,infantry1                       
#ceb   ,lamartine1                      
#cfa    ,lace1                          
#cbi    ,principal public ,libraries4   
,arsenal1                               
#bbe   ,hotel-de-,ville1                
#bdj   ,mazarine1                       
#bjg   ,royal1                          
#bfj   ,sainte-,genevieve1              
#aia   ,linen drapery1                  
#cbe   ,liqueurs1                       
#bhc   ,literature1                     
#cfj   ,lithographies1                  
#caj   ,lodgings1                       
#daf   ,louis-,philippe1                
#cb1 #aja1 #ceh   ,louvre1              
#hi1 #bfg1 #djf   ,luxembourg1          
#ih1 #bjj    ,mails1                    

#cgh   ,maps et plans in relief1        
#caa   ,marriage1                       
#abh1 #chc    ,principal ,markets4    --
 ,corn1 or ,halle an ,ble1              
#bee   -- ,flowers1                     
#aga   -- ,innocents1                   
#cec   -- ,st4 ,germain1                
#bjd   -- ,st4 ,honore1                 
#bgc   -- ,st4 ,laurent1                
#bdh   -- ,st4 ,martin1                 
#bde   ,meat1                           
#bhf   ,medicines1                      
#bib   ,middle classes1                 
#abc1 #ace   ,ministers1                
#cjb   ,mint1                           
#bjj   ,mirrors 7manufacture of71       
#bbh   ,money-changers1                 
#daj   ,modes1                          
#cbd   ,mont-de-,piete1                 
#bcf   ,morgue1                         
#agb   ,music1                          
#cfh   ,musical snuff-boxes1            
#cjb    ,national guards1               
#ced   ,navy1                           
#cee   ,needles1                        

#cba   ,newspapers1                     
#dad    ,observatory1                   
#ahe    ,palais-royal1                  
#bfc   -- de-,justice1                  
#agj   -- de la ,legion-d',honneur1     
#bba   -- du ,quai d',orsay1            
#bbb   -- des ,beaux-,arts1             
#bjh   ,pantheon1                       
#ahi   ,passports1                      
#cha   ,pens1                           
#bij   ,pencil-cases1                   
#cje   ,pere ,la ,chaise1               
#bbi   ,perfumery1                      
#cbj   ,phosphorus matches et boxes1    
#big   ,piano-fortes1                   
#cad   ,plate-glass manufacture1        
#bej   ,polytechnic1                    
#aib   ,post-office1                    
#chj   ,press1 ,english1                
#ced   ,press1 ,french1                 
#cee1 #che   ,printing establishment1   
royal1                                  
#bcg   ,prints1                         
#dag    ,principal ,prisons4    --      
,abbaye1                                

#bje   -- ,conciergerie1                
#aga   -- ,debtors1                     
#bgg   -- ,la ,force1                   
#bcd   -- ,jeunes ,detenus1             
#bca   -- ,de la ,roquette1             
#bca   -- ,saint-,lazare1               
#bdi   -- ,sainte-,pelagie1             
#aha   ,purses1                         
#cgf    ,rachel1                        
#cid   ,reading-rooms1                  
#dac   ,religion1                       
#cji   ,restaurateurs1                  
#aje   ,rents1                          
#aai   ,riding-school1                  
#adj   ,rouen1                          
#bb    ,seal engraver1                  
#cjf    ,principal ,seminaries4    --   
,foreign ,missionaries1                 
#baa   -- ,st4 ,nicolas ,chardonnet1    
#aid   -- ,st4 ,sulpice1                
#bjd   ,shirts1                         
#caf   ,silk mercery and fancy goods1   
#cdc   ,sisters of ,charity1            
#ahh1 #bdc   ,school of ,medicine1      
#aii   -- ,drawing1                     

#aii   -- ,mines1                       
#bjj   -- ,pharmacy1                    
#acd   -- ,ponts et ,chaussees1         
#bab   ,shoes1 ladies1                  
#cbh   -- gentlemen1                    
#bhi   ,societies1 scientific1          
#cei   ,soult1                          
#cib   ,stays1                          
#aeg   ,steam1 boats1                   
#dab   ,surgical instruments1           
#cjg    ,tailors1                       
#bhg1 #cai   ,temple1                   
#bde    ,principal ,theatres4    --     
,italian ,opera1                        
#cig   -- ,french ,opera                
#cih   -- ,comique ,opera1              
#cii   -- ,theatre ,francais1           
#djj   -- ,gymnase1                     
#dja   -- ,varietes1                    
#dja   -- ,vaudeville1                  
#djb   -- ,palais ,royal1               
#adc   -- ,porte ,st4 ,martin1          
#dje   -- ,ambigu ,comique1             
#dje   -- ,la ,gaite1                   
#djd   -- ,cirque ,olympique1           

#aaj   -- ,fulies ,dramatiques1         
#djd   -- ,odeon1                       
#djd   ,thiers1                         
#chh   ,timepieces1                     
#cae   ,tuileries1                      
#bgj    ,umbrellas et parasols1         
#cai    ,whips1                         
#cai   ,wine1                           
#bhc