de ,france 7,bn,f_/,gallica7 at         
http3_/_/gallica4bnf4fr7                
,,smi?sonian ,,in/itution--,,bureau ,,( 
,,e?nology4   ,,navajo ,,weav]s4  ,,by  
,,dr4 ,,wa%+ton ,,mat!ws1 ,u4,s4,a4     
,?ird ,annual ,report ( ! ,bureau (     
,e?nology to ! ,secret>y ( ! ,smi?sonian
 ,in/itution1 #ahha-'hb1 ,gov]nm5t      
,pr9t+ ,(fice1 ,wa%+ton1 #ahhd1 pages   
#cga-cib4     ,,illu/rations4   ,,plate 
,,xxxiv4--,navajo woman sp9n+           
#cgf        ,,xxxv4--,weav+ (           
diamond-%ap$ diagonals             #chj 
,,xxxvi4--,navajo woman weav+ a belt    
#chd      ,,xxxvii4--,zuni wom5 weav+ a 
belt                       #chh         
,,xxxviii4--,br++ d[n ! batt5           
#cij     ,,fig4 #db4--,ord9>y ,navajo   
blanket loom                    #cgh    
#dc4--;,diagram %[+ =mation ( w>p       
#cgi          #dd4--,weav+ ( saddle-gir?
                         #chb           
#de4--;,diagram %[+ arrangem5t ( ?reads 
(               ! w>p 9 ! healds & on ! 
rod           #chc          #df4--,weav+

 ( saddle-gir?                          
#chc          #dg4--;,diagram %[+       
arrangem5t ( healds 9                   
diagonal weav+                          
#chd          #dh4--;,diagonal clo?     
#chd          #di4--,navajo blanket ( ! 
f9e/ quality            #che            
#ej4--,navajo blankets                  
#chf          #ea4--,navajo blanket     
#chf          #eb4--,navajo blanket     
#chg          #ec4--,navajo blanket     
#chg          #ed4--,"p ( ,navajo       
blanket                          #chh   
#ee4--,"p ( ,navajo blanket             
#chh          #ef4--;,diagram %[+       
=mation ( w>p ( sa%       #chh          
#eg4--,section ( ,navajo belt           
#chi          #eh4--,wood5 heald ( !    
,zunis                       #chi       
#ei4--;,girl weav+ 7f an ,aztec picture7
            #cia     ,,navajo ,,weav]s4 
,,by ,,dr4 ,,wa%+ton ,,mat!ws4   ,sec4  
,i4 ,! art ( weav+1 z x exi/s among !   
,navajo ,indians ( ,new ,mexico &       
,arizona1 possesses po9ts ( great int]e/

 to ! /ud5t ( e?nography4 ,x is (       
aborig9al orig92 & :ile ,european art   
has und\bt$ly modifi$ x1 ! ext5t &      
nature ( ! =eign influ5ce is easily     
trac$4 ,x is by no means c]ta91 /ill !re
 are _m reasons = suppos+1 t ! ,navajos 
le>n$ _! craft f ! ,pueblo ,indians1 &  
t1 too1 s9ce ! adv5t ( ! ,spani>ds2 yet 
! pupils1 if su* !y be1 f> excel _!     
ma/]s to-day 9 ! beauty & quality ( _!  
"w4 ,x may be safely /at$ t ) no native 
tribe 9 ,am]ica1 nor? ( ! ,mexican      
b\nd>y1 has ! art ( weav+ be5 c>ri$ to  
great] p]fection ?an among ! ,navajos1  
:ile ) none 9 ! entire cont95t is x less
 ,europeaniz$4 ,z 9 language1 habits1 & 
op9ions1 s 9 arts1 ! ,navajos h be5 less
 influ5c$ ?an _! s$5t>y neighbors ( !   
pueblos by ! civilization ( ! ,old ,_w4 
,! sup]iority ( ! ,navajo to ! ,pueblo  
"w results n only f a con/ant advance ( 
! weav]'s art among ! =m]1 b f a con/ant
 det]ioration ( x among ! latt]4 ,! *ief
 cause ( ?is det]ioration is t !        
,pueblos f9d x m remun]ative to buy1 at 

lea/ ! f9] s]apes1 f ! ,navajos1 & give 
_! "t to o!r pursuits1 ?an to           
manufacture = !mselves2 !y are ne>] !   
:ite settlem5ts & c get bett] prices =  
_! produce2 !y give m att5tion to       
agriculture2 !y h )9 _! c\ntry1 m9es (  
turquoise :i* ! ,navajos prize1 & !y h  
no tr\ble 9 procur+ :isky1 :i* "s ( !   
,navajos prize ev5 m ?an gems4          
,consequ5tly1 :ile ! wild] ,indian has  
inc5tives to improve 8 art1 ! m advanc$ 
has _m temptations to ab&on x altoge!r4 
,9 "s pueblos ! skill ( ! loom has be5  
almo/ =gott54 ,a gr[+ fondness =        
,european clo?+ has also _h its         
influ5ce1 no d\bt4  ,sec4 ,,ii4 ,cotton1
 :i* gr[s well 9 ,new ,mexico &         
,arizona1 ! t\gh fib]s ( yucca leaves & 
! fib]s ( o!r plants1 ! hair ( diff]5t  
quadrup$s1 & ! d[n ( birds furni%$ 9    
prehi/oric days ! mat]ials ( textile    
fabrics 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,:ile "s ( !      
,pueblos /ill weave _! native cotton to 
a slight ext5t1 ! ,navajos gr[ no cotton
 & sp9 no?+ b ! wool ( ! dome/ic %eep1  

:i* animal is1 ( c\rse1 ( ,spani%       
introduction1 & ( :i* ! ,navajos h va/  
h]ds4  ,! wool is n wa%$ until x is     
%e>$4 ,at ! pres5t "t x is comb$ ) h&   
c>ds pur*as$ f ! ,am]icans4 ,9 sp9n+1 ! 
simple/ =m ( ! sp9dle--a sl5d] /ick ?ru/
 ?r\gh ! c5t] ( a r\nd wood5 disk--is   
us$4 ,! ,mexicans on ! ,rio ,gr&e use   
sp9n+-:eels1 & al?\gh ! ,navajos h (t5  
se5 ^! :eels1 h _h abundant             
opportunities = buy+ & /eal+ !m1 &      
possess1 ,i ?9k1 suffici5t +5uity to    
make !m1 !y h nev] ab&on$ ! rude        
implem5t ( _! ance/ors4 ,plate ,,xxxiv  
illu/rates ! ,navajo me?od ( h&l+ !     
sp9dle1 a me?od diff]5t f t ( ! p (     
,zuni4  ,!y /ill employ to a great ext5t
 _! native dyes3 ( yell[1 r$di%1 &      
black4 ,!re is good evid5ce t !y =m]ly  
_h a blue dye2 b indigo1 orig9ally      
introduc$1 ,i ?9k1 by ! ,mexicans1 has  
sup]s$$ ?is4 ,if !y1 9 =m] days1 _h a   
native blue & a native yell[1 !y mu/    
also1 ( c\rse1 h _h a gre51 & !y n[ make
 gre5 ( _! native yell[ & indigo1 !     

latt] be+ ! only import$ dye-/uff ,i h  
ev] se5 9 use among !m4 ,besides ! hues 
above indicat$1 ?is p h _h1 ev] s9ce !  
introduction ( %eep1 wool ( ?ree diff]5t
 natural colors--:ite1 ru/y black1 &    
gray--s !y _h always a fair range ( t9ts
 ) :i* to execute _! arti/ic designs4 ,!
 brilliant r$ figures 9 _! f9] blankets 
71 a few ye>s ago1 made entirely (      
bayeta1 & ?is mat]ial is /ill l>gely    
us$4 ,bayeta is a bright sc>let clo? ) a
 long nap1 mu* f9] 9 appe>ance ?an !    
sc>let /r\d+ :i* =ms su* an important   
article 9 ! ,indian trade ( ! ,nor?4 ,x 
0 orig9ally br\ght to ! ,navajo c\ntry f
 ,mexico1 b is n[ suppli$ to ! trade f  
our ea/]n cities4 ,! ,indians ravel x & 
use ! weft4 ,:ile _m h&some blankets are
 /ill made only ( ! colors & mat]ial    
above describ$1 ,am]ican y>n has lately 
become v popul> among ! ,navajos1 & _m  
f9e blankets are n[ made :olly1 or 9 "p1
 ( ,g]mant[n wool4  ,! black dye m5tion$
 above is made ( ! twigs & leaves ( !   
aromatic sumac 7,rhus aromatica71 a     

native yell[ o*]1 & ! gum ( ! p9on      
7,p9us edulis74 ,! process ( prep>+ x is
 z foll[s3 ,!y put into a pot ( wat] "s 
( ! leaves ( ! sumac1 & z _m ( !        
bran*lets z c be cr[d$ 9 )\t mu* break+ 
or cru%+1 & ! wat] is all[$ to boil =   
five or six h\rs until a /rong decoction
 is made4 ,:ile ! wat] is boil+ !y att5d
 to o!r p>ts ( ! process4 ,! o*] is     
r$uc$ to a f9e p[d] betwe5 two /ones &  
!n sl[ly roa/$ ov] ! fire 9 an e>!n or  
metal vessel until x assumes a          
light-br[n color2 x is !n tak5 f ! fire 
& comb9$ ) ab\t an equal quantity 9 size
 ( p9on gum2 aga9 ! mixture is put on ! 
fire & con/antly /irr$4 ,at fir/ ! gum  
melts & ! :ole mass assumes a mu%y      
consi/5cy2 b z ! roa/+ progresses x     
gradually becomes dri] & d>k] until x is
 at la/ r$uc$ to a f9e black p[d]4 ,?is 
is remov$ f ! fire1 & :5 x has cool$    
some:at x is ?r[n into ! decoction (    
sumac1 ) :i* x in/antly =ms a ri*1      
blue-black fluid4 ,?is dye is ess5tially
 an ink1 ! tannic acid ( ! sumac comb9+ 

) ! sesquioxide ( iron 9 ! roa/$ o*]1 ! 
:ole enri*$ by ! c>bon ( ! calc9$ gum4  
,illu/ration3 ,,pl4 ,,xxxiv4--,,navajo  
,,woman ,,sp9n+4  ,!re are1 ! ,indians  
tell me1 ?ree diff]5t processes = dye+  
yell[2 two ( ^! ,i h witness$4 ,! fir/  
process is ?us conduct$3 ,! fl[]+ tops (
 ,bigelovia graveol5s are boil$ = ab\t  
six h\rs until a decoction ( deep yell[ 
color is produc$4 ,:5 ! dy] ?9ks !      
decoction /rong en\gh1 %e heats ov] !   
fire 9 a pan or e>!n vessel "s native   
almog5 7an impure native alum71 until x 
is r$uc$ to a some:at pa/y consi/5cy2   
?is %e adds gradually to ! decoction &  
!n puts ! wool 9 ! dye to boil4 ,f "t to
 "t a portion ( ! wool is tak5 out &    
inspect$ until 79 ab\t half an h\r f !  
"t x is fir/ imm]s$7 x is se5 to h      
assum$ ! prop] color4 ,! "w is !n done4 
,! t9t produc$ is ne>ly t ( lemon yell[4
 ,9 ! second process !y use ! l>ge1     
fle%y root ( a plant :i*1 z ,i h nev]   
yet se5 x 9 fruit or fl[]1 ,i am unable 
to det]m9e4 ,! fre% root is cru%$ to a  

s(t pa/e on ! metate1 &1 = a mordant1 ! 
almog5 is add$ :ile ! gr9d+ is go+ on4  
,! cold pa/e is !n rubb$ betwe5 ! h&s   
into ! wool4 ,if ! wool does n seem to  
take ! color readily a little wat] is   
da%$ on ! mixture ( wool & pa/e1 & !    
:ole is v slightly w>m$4 ,! entire      
process does n occupy ov] an h\r & !    
result is a color mu* l t n[ kn[n z old 
gold4  ,! r$di% dye is made ( ! b>k (   
,alnus incana v>4 viresc5s 7,watson7 & !
 b>k ( ! root ( ,c]coc>pus p>vifolius2 !
 mordant be+ f9e junip] a%es4 ,on       
bucksk9 ?is makes a brilliant tan-color2
 b appli$ to wool x produces a mu* pal] 
t9t4  ,sec4 ,,iii4 ,plate ,,xxxviii &   
,fig4 #db illu/rate ord9>y              
blanket-looms4 ,two po/s1 a a1 are set  
firmly 9 ! gr\nd2 to ^! are la%$ two    
cross-pieces or braces1 b c1 ! :ole =m+ 
! frame ( ! loom4 ,sometimes two sl5d]  
trees1 gr[+ at a conv5i5t di/ance f "o  
ano!r1 are made to answ] = ! po/s1 d is 
a horizontal pole1 :i* ,i call !        
supplem5t>y y>n-beam1 atta*$ to ! upp]  

brace1 b1 by means ( a rope1 e e1       
spirally appli$4 f is ! upp] beam ( !   
loom4 ,z x is analog\s to ! y>n-beam (  
our looms1 ,i w call x by ?is "n1 al?\gh
 once only h ,i se5 ! w>p w\nd ar\nd x4 
,x lies p>allel to ! pole d1 ab\t #b or 
#c in*es bel[ x1 & is atta*$ to ! latt] 
by a numb] ( loops1 g g4 ,a spiral cord 
w\nd ar\nd ! y>n-beam holds ! upp] bord]
 cord h h1 :i*1 9 turn1 secures ! upp]  
end ( ! w>p i i4 ,! l[] beam ( ! loom is
 %[n at k4 ,i w call ?is ! clo?-beam1   
al?\gh ! f9i%$ web is nev] w\nd ar\nd x2
 x is ti$ firmly to ! l[] brace1 c1 ( ! 
frame1 & to x is secur$ ! l[] bord] cord
 ( ! blanket4 ,! orig9al di/ance betwe5 
! two beams is ! l5g? ( ! blanket4 ,ly+ 
betwe5 ! ?reads ( ! w>p is depict$ a    
broad1 ?91 oak5 /ick1 l1 :i* ,i w call !
 batt54 ,a set ( healds atta*$ to a     
heald-rod1 m1 are %[n above ! batt54 ,^!
 healds are made ( cord or y>n2 !y      
include alt]nate ?reads ( ! w>p1 & s]ve 
:5 drawn =w>d to op5 ! l[] %$4 ,! upp]  
%$ is kept pat5t by a /\t rod1 n 7hav+  

no healds atta*$71 :i* ,i "n ! %$-rod4  
,_! sub/itute = ! re$ ( our looms is a  
wood5 =k1 :i* w be designat$ z ! re$-=k 
7,fig4 #dd1 a74  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#db4--,ord9>y ,navajo blanket loom4  ,= 
conv5i5ce ( description1 ,i am oblig$ to
 use ! ^w %uttle1 al?\gh1 /rictly       
speak+1 ! ,navajo has no %uttle4 ,if !  
figure to be wov5 is a long /ripe1 or "o
 :]e ! weft mu/ be pass$ ?r\gh #f in*es 
or m ( ! %$ at "o "t1 ! y>n is w\nd on a
 sl5d] twig or spl9t]1 or %ov$ ?r\gh on 
! end ( su* a piece ( wood2 b :]e !     
patt]n is intricate1 & ! weft passes at 
ea* turn ?r\gh only a few in*es ( ! %$1 
! y>n is w\nd into small ske9s or balls 
& %ov$ ?r\gh ) ! f+]4  ,sec4 ,,iv4 ,!   
w>p is ?us con/ruct$3 ,a frame ( f\r    
/icks is made1 n unlike ! frame ( !     
loom1 b ly+ on or ne> ! gr\nd1 in/ead ( 
/&+ erect4 ,! two /icks =m+ ! sides ( ! 
frame are r\gh sapl+s or rails2 ! two   
=m+ ! top & bottom are smoo? r\nd$      
poles--(t5 ! poles :i* aft]w>ds s]ve z !
 beams ( ! loom2 ^! are plac$ p>allel to

 "o ano!r1 _! di/ance ap>t dep5d+ on !  
l5g? ( ! project$ blanket4  ,on ^! poles
 ! w>p is laid 9 a cont9u\s /r+4 ,x is  
fir/ firmly ti$ to "o ( ! poles1 :i* ,i 
w call ,no4 #a 7,fig4 #dc72 !n x is     
pass$ ov] ! o!r pole1 ,no4 #b1 br\ght   
back "u ,no4 #b & ov] ,no4 #a1 =w>d aga9
 "u ,no4 #a & ov] ,no4 #b1 & s on to !  
end4 ,?us ! fir/1 ?ird1 fif?1 c41 turns 
( ! cord cross 9 ! middle ! second1     
f\r?1 six?1 c41 =m+ a s]ies ( elongat$  
figures #h1 z %[n 9 ! foll[+ diagram--  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,diagram %[+
 =mation ( w>p4  & mak+1 9 ! v beg9n+ ( 
! process1 ! two %$s1 :i* are kept      
di/9ct ?r\gh\t ! :ole "w4 ,:5 suffici5t 
/r+ has be5 laid ! end is ti$ to pole   
,no4 #b1 & a rod is plac$ 9 ea* %$ to   
keep x op51 ! rods be+ aft]w>ds ti$     
toge!r at ! ends to prev5t !m f fall+   
out4  ,?is done1 ! weav] takes ?ree /r+s
 7:i* are aft]w>ds twill$ into "o1 z w  
appe>7 & ties !m toge!r at "o end4 ,%e  
n[ sits outside "o ( ! poles1 look+     
t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! frame1 & proce$s ?us3 

7#a7 ,%e secures ! triple cord to ! pole
 imm$iately to ! left ( ! w>p2 7#b7 !n  
%e takes "o ( ! ?reads 7or /r&s z !y n[ 
become7 & passes x "u ! fir/ turn ( !   
w>p2 7#c7 next %e takes a second /r&1 & 
twill+ x once or (t5] ) ! o!r /r&s1     
includes ) x ! second b5d ( ! w>p2 7#d7 
?is done1 %e takes ! ?ird /r& &1 twill+ 
x z be=e1 passes x "u ! ?ird b5d ( !    
w>p1 & ?us %e goes on until ! entire w>p
 9 "o place is secur$ betwe5 ! /r&s ( ! 
cord2 7#e7 !n %e pulls ! /r+ to its     
fulle/ ext5t1 & 9 do+ s sep>ates !      
?reads ( ! w>p f "o ano!r2 7#f7 a simil>
 ?ree /r&$ cord is appli$ to ! o!r end (
 ! w>p1 along ! outside ( ! o!r pole4   
,at ?is /age ( ! "w ^! /\t cords lie    
along ! out] surfaces ( ! poles1 p>allel
 ) ! axes ( ! latt]1 b :5 ! w>p is tak5 
(f ! poles & appli$ to ! beams ( ! loom 
by ! spiral ?read1 z above describ$1 & z
 depict$ 9 ,plate ,,xxxviii & ,fig4 #db1
 & all is ready = weav+1 ! cords appe>  
on ! inn] sides ( ! beams1 i4e41 "o     
7,pl4 ,,xxxviii & ,fig4 #db1 h h7 at !  

l[] side ( ! y>n-beam1 ! o!r at ! upp]  
side ( ! clo?-beam1 & :5 ! blanket is   
f9i%$ !y =m ! /\t end m>g9s ( ! web4 ,9 
! co>s] grade ( blankets ! cords are    
remov$ & ! ends ( ! w>p ti$ 9 pairs &   
made to =m a fr+e4 7,see ,figs4 #ed &   
#ee47  ,:5 ! w>p is transf]r$ to ! loom 
! rod :i* 0 plac$ 9 ! upp] %$ rema9s    
!re1 or ano!r rod1 /raight] & smoo!r1 is
 sub/itut$ = x2 b ) ! l[] %$1 healds are
 appli$ to ! ant]ior ?reads & ! rod is  
)drawn4  ,sec4 ,v4 ,! mode ( apply+ !   
healds is simple3 7#a7 ! weav] sits fac+
 ! loom 9 ! position = weav+2 7#b7 %e   
lays at ! "r 7h] "r7 side ( ! loom a    
ball ( /r+ :i* %e kn[s conta9s m ?an    
suffici5t mat]ial to make ! healds2 7#c7
 %e takes ! end ( ?is /r+ & passes x to 
! left ?r\gh ! %$1 leav+ ! ball 9 its   
orig9al position2 7#d7 %e ties a loop at
 ! end ( ! /r+ l>ge en\gh to admit !    
heald-rod2 7#e7 %e holds horizontally 9 
h] left h& a /raighti% sl5d] rod1 :i* is
 to become ! heald-rod--its "r extremity
 t\*+ ! left edge ( ! w>p--& passes !   

rod ?r\gh ! loop until ! po9t ( ! /ick  
is ev5 ) ! ?ird 7second ant]ior f !     
left7 ?read ( ! w>p2 7#f7 %e puts h] f+]
 ?r\gh ! space betwe5 ! fir/ & ?ird     
?reads & draws out a fold ( ! heald-/r+2
 7#g7 %e twi/s ?is once ar\nd1 s z to =m
 a loop1 & pu%es ! po9t ( ! heald-rod on
 to ! "r ?r\gh ?is loop2 7#h7 %e puts h]
 f+] into ! next space & =ms ano!r loop2
 7#i7 & s on %e cont9ues to advance h]  
rod & =m h] loops f left to "r until ea*
 ( ! ant]ior 7alt]nate7 w>p-?reads ( !  
l[] %$ is includ$ 9 a loop ( ! heald2   
7#aj7 :5 ! la/ loop is made %e ties !   
/r+ firmly to ! rod ne> its "r end4  ,:5
 ! weav+ is ne>ly done & x becomes      
necess>y to remove ! healds1 ! rod is   
drawn out ( ! loops1 a slight pull is   
made at ! ?read1 ! loops fall 9 an      
in/ant1 & ! /raight5$ /r+ is drawn out (
 ! %$4 ,illu/rations ( ! healds may be  
se5 9 ,plates ,,xxxv & ,,xxxviii &      
,figs4 #db1 #dd1 & #df1 t 9 ,fig4 #df   
be+ ! mo/ di/9ct4  ,sec4 ,,vi4 ,9 mak+ a
 blanket ! op]ator sits on ! gr\nd ) h] 

legs fold$ "u h]4 ,! w>p hangs v]tically
 be=e h]1 & 7except+ 9 a case to be     
m5tion$7 %e weaves f bel[ upw>ds4 ,z %e 
nev] rises f ?is squatt+ po/ure :5 at   
"w1 x is evid5t t :5 %e has wov5 ! web  
to a c]ta9 height fur!r "w mu/ become   
inconv5i5t or impossible unless by "s   
arrangem5t ! f9i%$ web is drawn d[nw>ds4
 ,h] clo?-beam does n revolve z 9 our   
looms1 s %e br+s h] "w )9 easy rea* by !
 foll[+ me?od3 ,! spiral rope 7,plate   
,,xxxviii & ,fig4 #db7 is loos5$1 !     
y>n-beam is l[]$ to ! desir$ di/ance1 a 
fold is made 9 ! loos5$ web1 & ! upp]   
edge ( ! fold is sew$ d[n tightly to !  
clo?-beam4 ,9 all new blankets ov] two  
feet long ! m>ks ( ?is sew+ are to be   
se51 & !y (t5 rema9 until ! blanket is  
worn out4 ,plate ,,xxxv1 repres5t+ a    
blanket ne>ly f9i%$1 illu/rates ?is     
proc$ure4  ,except 9 belts1 gir?s1 &    
p]haps occasionally 9 v n>r[ blankets1 !
 %uttle is nev] pass$ ?r\gh ! :ole wid? 
( ! w>p at once1 b only ?r\gh a space   
:i* does n exce$ ! l5g? ( ! batt52 = x  

is by means ( ! batt51 :i* is r>ely m   
?an #c feet long1 t ! %$ is op5$4       
,illu/ration3 ,,pl4 ,,xxxv4--,,weav+ ,,(
 ,,diamond-,,%ap$ ,,diagonals4  ,suppose
 ! woman beg9s by weav+ 9 ! l[] %$4 ,%e 
draws apportion ( ! healds t[>ds h]1 & )
 !m ! ant]ior ?reads ( ! %$2 by ?is     
motion %e op5s ! %$ ab\t #a in*1 :i* is 
n suffici5t = ! easy passage ( ! wo(4   
,%e ins]ts h] batt5 edgewise into ?is   
op5+ & !n turns x half ar\nd on its long
 axis1 s t its broad surfaces lie       
horizontally2 9 ?is way ! %$ is op5$ to 
! ext5t ( ! wid? ( ! batt5--ab\t #c     
in*es2 next ! weft is pass$ ?r\gh4 ,9   
fig4 #db ! batt5 is %[n ly+ edgewise    
7its broad surfaces v]tical71 z x appe>s
 :5 j ins]t$ into ! %$1 & ! weft1 :i*   
has be5 pass$ ?r\gh only a portion ( !  
%$1 is se5 hang+ out ) its end on !     
gr\nd4 ,9 ,plate ,,xxxv ! batt5 is %[n 9
 ! second position describ$1 ) ! %$ op5 
to ! fulle/ ext5t necess>y1 & ! weav] is
 repres5t$ 9 ! act ( pass+ ! %uttle     
?r\gh4 ,:5 ! weft is 91 x is %ov$ d[n   

into its prop] position by means ( !    
re$-=k1 & !n ! batt51 re/or$ to its fir/
 position 7edgewise71 is br\ght d[n )   
firm bl[s on ! weft4 ,x is by ! vigor\s 
use ( ! batt5 t ! ,navajo s]apes are    
r5d]$ wat]-pro(4 ,9 ,plate ,,xxxviii !  
weav] is se5 br++ d[n ?is in/rum5t 9 !  
mann] & = ! purpose describ$1 z ! lett]s
 pat5t say4  ,:5 ! l[] %$ has receiv$   
its ?read ( weft ! weav] op5s ! upp] %$4
 ,?is is done by releas+ ! healds & %ov+
 ! %$-rod d[n until x comes 9 contact ) 
! healds2 ?is op5s ! upp] %$ d[n to !   
web4 ,!n ! weft is ins]t$ & ! batt5 &   
re$-=k us$ z be=e4 ,?us %e goes on ) ea*
 %$ alt]nately until ! web is f9i%$4  ,x
 is1 ( c\rse1 desirable1 at lea/ 9      
h&some blankets ( intricate patt]n1 to h
 bo? ends uni=m ev5 if ! figure be a    
little faulty 9 ! c5t]4 ,to accompli%   
?is "s ( ! be/ weav]s dep5d on a c>eful 
e/imate ( ! l5g? ( ea* figure be=e !y   
beg91 & weave cont9u\sly 9 "o direction2
 b ! majority weave a little portion ( !
 upp] end be=e !y f9i% ! middle4        

,sometimes ?is is done by weav+ f above 
d[nw>ds2 at o!r times x is done by turn+
 ! loom upside d[n & work+ f bel[ upw>ds
 9 ! ord9>y mann]4 ,9 ,fig4 #di1 :i*    
repres5ts "o ( ! v f9e/ results (       
,navajo "w1 by ! be/ weav] 9 ! tribe1 x 
w be se5 t exact uni=mity 9 ! ends has n
 be5 atta9$4 ,! figure 0 ( su* a nature 
t ! blanket _h to be wov5 9 "o direction
 only4  ,i h describ$ h[ ! ends ( !     
blanket are bord]$ ) a /\t ?ree-ply /r+ 
appli$ to ! folds ( ! w>p4 ,! lat]al    
edges ( ! blanket are simil>ly protect$ 
by /\t cords appli$ to ! weft4 ,! way 9 
:i* ^! are wov5 91 next dem&s our       
att5tion4 ,two /\t wor/$ cords1 ti$     
toge!r1 are firmly atta*$ at ea* end ( !
 clo?-beam j outside ( ! w>p2 !y are !n 
c>ri$ upw>ds & loosely ti$ to ! y>n-beam
 or ! supplem5t>y y>n-beam4 ,e "t ! weft
 is turn$ at ! edge ^! two /r+s are     
twi/$ toge!r & ! weft is pass$ ?r\gh !  
twi/2 ?us "o ?read or /r& ( ?is bord] is
 always on ! outside4 ,z x is con/antly 
twi/$ 9 "o direction1 x is evid5t t1    

aft] a :ile1 a c\nt]-twi/ mu/ =m :i*    
w\ld r5d] ! passage ( ! weft betwe5 !   
cords difficult1 if ! cords c\ld n be   
untwi/$ aga94 ,"h ! object ( ty+ ^!     
cords loosely to "o ( ! upp] beams1 z   
be=e describ$1 is display$4 ,f "t to "t 
! cords are unti$ & ! unwov5 portion    
/raight5$ z ! "w progresses4 ,fig4 #dd &
 ,plate ,,xxxviii %[ ^! cords4 ,! co>se 
blankets d n h !m4 7,fig #db47  ,navajo 
blankets are s+le-ply1 ) designs ! same 
on bo? sides1 no matt] h[ elaborate ^!  
designs may be4 ,to produce _! v>igat$  
patt]ns !y h a sep>ate ske91 %uttle1 or 
?read = ea* compon5t ( ! patt]n4 ,take1 
= in/ance1 ! blanket depict$ 9 ,fig4    
#di4 ,across ?is blanket1 betwe5 ! po9ts
 a--b1 we h two s]rat$ bord]s1 two :ite 
spaces1 a small diamond 9 ! c5t]1 &     
tw5ty-f\r s]rat$ /ripes1 mak+ 9 all     
tw5ty-n9e compon5t p>ts ( ! patt]n4 ,n[1
 :5 ! weav] 0 work+ 9 ?is place1        
tw5ty-n9e diff]5t ?reads ( weft might h 
be5 se5 hang+ f ! face ( ! web at "o "t4
 ,9 ! gir? pictur$ 9 ,fig4 #dd five     

diff]5t ?reads ( wo( are %[n dep5d+ f ! 
loom4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--,weav+
 ( saddle-gir?4  ,:5 ! web is s ne>ly   
f9i%$ t ! batt5 c no long] be ins]t$ 9 !
 w>p1 sl5d] rods are plac$ 9 ! %$1 :ile 
! weft is pass$ ) increas$ difficulty on
 ! end ( a delicate spl9t] & ! re$-=k   
alone presses ! w>p home4 ,lat] x       
becomes necess>y to remove ev5 ! rod & !
 %$2 !n ! alt]nate ?reads are sep>at$ by
 a sl5d] /ick work$ 9 t$i\sly betwe5 !m1
 & two ?reads ( wo( are ins]t$--"o above
 & ! o!r bel[ ! /ick4 ,! v la/ ?read is 
sometimes put 9 ) a d>n+ ne$le4 ,! weav+
 ( ! la/ ?ree in*es requires m labor ?an
 any foot ( ! previ\s "w4  ,9 ,figs4    
#di1 #ej1 #ea1 #eb1 & #ec x w be se5 t  
!re are small fr+es or tassels at !     
corn]s ( ! blankets2 ^! are made ( !    
r$undant ends ( ! f\r bord]-cords 7i4e41
 ! portions ( ! cord by :i* !y 7 ti$ to 
! beams71 ei!r simply ti$ toge!r or     
secur$ 9 ! web ) a few /it*es4  ,! above
 is a description ( ! simple/ me*anism  
by :i* ! ,navajos make _! blankets2 b 9 

manufactur+ diagonals1 sa%es1 g>t]s1 &  
hair-b&s ! me*anism is mu* m complicat$4
  ,sec4 ,,vii4 ,= mak+ diagonals ! w>p  
is divid$ into f\r %$s2 ! upp]mo/ "o (  
^! is provid$ ) a %$-rod1 ! o!rs are    
suppli$ ) healds4 ,i w numb] ! healds & 
%$s f bel[ upw>ds4 ,! foll[+ diagram %[s
 h[ ! ?reads ( ! w>p are arrang$ 9 !    
healds & on ! rod4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #de4--;,diagram %[+ arrangem5t ( ?reads
 ( ! w>p 9 ! healds & on ! rod4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4--,weav+ (     
saddle-gir?4  ,:5 ! weav] wi%es !       
diagonal ridges to run upw>ds f "r to   
left1 %e op5s ! %$s 9 regul> ord] f bel[
 upw>ds ?us3 ,fir/1 second1 ?ird1 f\r?1 
fir/1 second1 ?ird1 f\r?1 c4 ,:5 %e     
wi%es ! ridges to tr5d 9 ! contr>y      
direction %e op5s ! %$s 9 ! inv]se ord]4
 ,i f\nd x conv5i5t to take my          
illu/rations ( ?is mode ( weav+ f a     
gir?4 ,9 ,figs4 #dd & #df ! me*anism is 
pla9ly %[n4 ,! l[e/ 7fir/7 %$ is op5$ & 
! fir/ set ( healds drawn =w>d4 ,! r+s (
 ! gir? take ! place ( ! beams ( ! loom4

  ,!re is a v>iety ( diagonal weav+     
practic$ by ! ,navajos :i* produces     
diamond figures2 = ?is ! me*anism is !  
same z t j describ$1 except t ! healds  
are arrang$ diff]5tly on ! w>p4 ,!      
foll[+ diagram w expla9 ?is arrangem5t4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,diagram %[+
 arrangem5t ( helds 9 diagonal weav+4   
,to make ! mo/ approv$ s]ies ( diamonds 
! %$s are op5$ twice 9 ! direct ord]    
7i4e41 f bel[ upw>ds7 & twice 9 ! inv]se
 ord]1 ?us3 ,fir/1 second1 ?ird1 f\r?1  
fir/1 second1 ?ird1 f\r?1 ?ird1 second1 
fir/1 f\r?1 ?ird1 second1 fir/1 f\r?1 & 
s on4 ,if ?is ord] is dep>t$ f ! figures
 become irregul>4 ,if ! weav] cont9ues m
 ?an twice consecutively 9 ei!r ord]1 a 
r[ ( ,v-%ap$ figures is =m$1 ?us3       
,,vvvv4 ,plate ,,xxxv repres5ts a woman 
weav+ a blanket ( ?is patt]n1 & ,fig4   
#dh %[s a portion ( a blanket :i* is "p 
pla9 diagonal & "p diamond4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--;,diagonal   
clo?4  ,sec4 ,,viii4 ,i h h]et(ore spok5
 ( ! ,navajo weav]s always z ( ! fem99e 

g5d] because ! l>ge majority ( !m are   
wom54 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 a few m5 :o      
practice ! textile art1 & among !m are  
to f\nd ! be/ artisans 9 ! tribe4       
,illu/ration3 ,,pl4 ,,xxxvi4--,,navajo  
,,woman ,,weav+ ,a ,,belt4  ,sec4 ,,ix4 
,navajo blankets repres5t a wide range 9
 quality & f9i% & an endless v>iety 9   
design1 not)/&+ t all _! figures consi/ 
( /raight l9es & angles1 no curves be+  
us$4 ,z illu/rat+ ! great f]tility ( ?is
 p 9 design ,i h to relate t 9 ! f9]    
blankets ( intricate patt]n out ( ?\s&s 
:i* ,i h exam9$1 ,i d n rememb] to h ev]
 se5 two exactly alike4 ,among ! co>se  
/rip$ blankets !re is great uni=mity4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di4--,navajo      
blanket ( ! f9e/ quality4  ,! accompany+
 pictures ( blankets repres5t "s 9 my   
private collection4 ,fig4 #di depicts a 
blanket measur+ #f feet #i in*es by #e  
feet #f in*es1 & weigh+ ne>ly #f p\nds4 
,x is made entirely ( ,g]mant[n y>n 9   
sev5 /rongly contra/+ colors1 & is ! "w 
( a man :o is g5]ally conc$$ to be ! be/

 weav] 9 ! tribe4 ,a mon? 0 sp5t 9 its  
manufacture4 ,its figures are mo/ly 9   
s]rat$ /ripes1 :i* are ! mo/ difficult  
to execute ) regul>ity4 ,i h he>d t !   
man :o wove ?is (t5 draws 8 designs on  
s& be=e he beg9s to "w !m on ! loom4    
,fig4 #ej a %[s a blanket ( m antique   
design & mat]ial4 ,x is #f feet #f in*es
 by #e feet #c in*es1 & is made ( native
 y>n & bayeta4 ,its colors are black1   
:ite1 d>k-blue1 r$ 7bayeta7 &--9 a      
portion ( ! /air-l figures--a pale blue4
 ,fig4 #ej b depicts a tuft$ blanket or 
rug1 ( a k9d n common1 hav+ mu* !       
appe>ance ( an ,ori5tal rug2 x is made (
 %r$d$ r$ flannel1 ) a few simple       
figures 9 yell[1 d>k blue1 & gre54 ,fig4
 #ea repres5ts a gaudy blanket ( small] 
size 7#e feet #d in*es by #c feet #g    
in*es7 worn by a woman4 ,its colors are 
yell[1 gre51 d>k blue1 gray1 & r$1 all b
 ! latt] color be+ 9 native y>n4 ,figs4 
#eb & #ec illu/rate small or half-size  
blankets made = *ildr5's we>4 ,su*      
articles are (t5 us$ = saddle blankets  

7al?\gh ! saddle-clo? is usually ( co>s]
 mat]ial7 & are 9 great dem& among !    
,am]icans = rugs4 ,fig4 #ec has a regul>
 bord] ( uni=m device all ! way ar\nd--a
 v r>e ?+ 9 ,navajo blankets4 ,figs4 #ed
 & #ee %[ portions ( co>se blankets made
 m = use use ?an ornam5t4 ,fig4 #ee is  
made ( loosely-twill$ y>n1 & is v w>m b 
n wat]-pro(4 ,su* blankets make excell5t
 b$d+ = troops 9 ! field4 ,fig4 #ed is a
 wat]-pro( s]ape ( well-twill$ native   
wool4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4             
#ej4--,navajo blankets4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #ea4--,navajo blanket4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eb4--,navajo      
blanket4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4          
#ec4--,navajo blanket4  ,illu/ration3   
,,fig4 #ed4--,"p ( ,navajo blanket4     
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--,"p ( ,navajo
 blanket4  ,! aborig9al woman's dress is
 made ( two small blankets1 equal 9 size
 & simil> 9 design1 sew$ toge!r at !    
sides1 ) ap]tures left = ! arms & no    
sleeves4 ,x is inv>iably wov5 9 black or
 d>k-blue native wool ) a broad v>iegat$

 /ripe 9 r$ import$ y>n or r$ bayeta at 
ea* end1 ! designs be+ ( c\ntless       
v>iety4 ,plates ,,xxxiv & ,,xxxv        
repres5t wom5 we>+ su* dresses4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--;,diagram %[+
 =mation ( w>p ( sa%4  ,illu/ration3    
,,pl4 ,,xxxvii4--,,zuni ,,woman ,,weav+ 
,a ,,belt4  ,sec4 ,x4 ,_! way ( weav+   
long ribbon-l articles1 su* z sa%es or  
belts1 g>t]s1 & hair-b&s1 :i* we w next 
consid]1 pres5ts _m int]e/+ v>iations f1
 ! me?od pursu$ 9 mak+ blankets4 ,to =m1
 a sa% ! weav] proce$s z foll[s3 ,%e    
drives into ! gr\nd f\r /icks & on !m %e
 w9ds h] w>p z a cont9u\s /r+ 7h[ev]1 z 
! w>p usually consi/s ( ?reads ( ?ree   
diff]5t colors x is n always "o cont9u\s
 /r+7 f1 bel[ upw>ds 9 su* a way z to   
secure two %$s1 z %[n 9 ! diagram1 ,fig4
 #ef4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4             
#eg4--,section ( ,navajo belt4          
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4--,wood5 heald 
( ! ,zunis4  ,e turn ( ! w>p passes ov] 
! /icks a1 & b2 b x is alt]nate turns t 
pass ov] c & d4 ,:5 ! w>p is laid %e    

ties a /r+ ar\nd ! int]section ( ! %$s  
at e1 s z to keep ! %$s sep>ate :ile %e 
is m\nt+ ! w>p on ! beams4 ,%e !n places
 ! upp] beam ( ! loom 9 ! place ( ! /ick
 b & ! l[] beam 9 ! place ( ! /ick a4   
,sometimes ! upp] & l[] beams are secur$
 to ! two side rails =m+ a frame su* z !
 w>p ( a blanket is w\nd on 7,sec4      
,,iv71 b m commonly ! loom is arrang$ 9 
! mann] %[n 9 ,plate ,,xxxvi2 t is1 !   
upp] beam is secur$ to a raft]1 po/1 or 
tree1 :ile to ! l[] beam is atta*$ a    
loop ( rope t passes "u ! ?ighs ( !     
weav]1 & ! w>p is r5d]$ t5se by h]      
weight4 ,next1 ! upp] %$ is suppli$ ) a 
%$-rod1 & ! l[] %$ ) a set ( healds4 ,!n
 ! /ick at f 7upp] /ick 9 ,plate        
,,xxxvi7 is put 92 ?is is simply a r\nd 
/ick1 ab\t :i* "o loop ( ea* ?read ( !  
w>p is ?r[n4 7,al?\gh ! w>p may consi/ (
 only "o ?read ,i mu/ n[ speak ( ea*    
turn z a sep>ate ?read47 ,its use is to 
keep ! diff]5t ?reads 9 place & prev5t  
!m f cross+ & /raggl+2 = x mu/ be       
rememb]$ t ! w>p 9 ?is case is n secur$ 

at two po9ts betwe5 ?ree /r&$ cords z is
 ! blanket w>p4  ,:5 ?is is all ready ! 
ins]tion ( ! weft beg9s4 ,! re$-=k is   
r>ely ne$$ & ! batt5 us$ is mu* %ort]   
?an t employ$ 9 mak+ blankets4 ,fig4 #eg
 repres5ts a section ( a belt4 ,x w be  
se5 t ! c5t] is ornam5t$ ) peculi> rais$
 figures2 ^! are made by ins]t+ a sl5d] 
/ick into ! w>p1 s z to hold up c]ta9 ( 
! ?reads :ile ! weft is pass$ twice or  
(t5] und]nea? !m4 ,x is practically a   
v>iety ( damask or two-ply weav+2 !     
figures on ! opposite side ( ! belt be+ 
diff]5t4 ,!re is a limit$ v>iety ( ^!   
figures4 ,i ?9k ,i h se5 ab\t a doz5    
diff]5t k9ds4 ,! exp]i5c$ weav] is s    
well acqua9t$ ) ! c\nt or arrangem5ts ( 
! rais$ ?reads appropriate to ea* patt]n
 t %e goes on ins]t+ & )draw+ ! sl5d]   
/ick ref]r$ to )\t a mom5t's hesitation1
 mak+ ! web at ! rate ( #aj or #ab in*es
 an h\r4 ,:5 ! web has gr[n to ! po9t at
 :i* %e _c weave x fur!r )\t br++ !     
unfill$ w>p ne>] to h]1 %e is n oblig$  
to resort to ! clumsy me?od us$ )       

blankets4 ,%e m]ely seizes ! ant]ior    
lay] ( ! w>p & pulls x d[n t[>ds h]2 = !
 w>p is n atta*$ to ! beams1 b is       
movable on !m2 9 o!r words1 :ile /ill on
 ! loom ! belt is endless4 ,:5 all ! w>p
 has be5 fill$ except ab\t "o foot1 !   
weav+ is complet$2 = !n ! unfill$ w>p is
 cut 9 ! c5t] & becomes ! t]m9al fr+es (
 ! n[ f9i%$ belt4  ,! only m>k$ diff]5ce
 t ,i h obs]v$ betwe5 ! me*anical       
appliances ( ! ,navajo weav] & ^? ( h]  
,pueblo neighbor is to be se5 9 ! belt  
loom4 ,! ,zuni woman lays out h] w>p1 n 
z a cont9u\s ?read ar\nd two beams1 b z 
sev]al disunit$ ?reads4 ,%e atta*es "o  
end ( ^! to a fix$ object1 usually a    
raft] 9 h] dwell+1 & ! o!r to ! belt %e 
we>s ar\nd h] body4 ,%e has a set (     
wood5 healds by :i* %e actuates !       
alt]nate ?reads ( ! w>p4 ,in/ead ( us+ !
 sl5d] /ick ( ! ,navajos to elevate !   
?reads ( ! w>p 9 =m+ h] figures1 %e     
lifts ^! ?reads ) h] f+]s4 ,?is is an   
easy matt] ) h] /yle ( loom2 b x w\ld be
 a v difficult task ) t ( ! ,navajos4   

,plate ,,xxxvii repres5ts a ,zuni woman 
weav+ a belt4 ,! wood5 healds are %[n1 &
 aga91 enl>g$1 9 ,fig4 #eh4 ,! ,zuni    
wom5 weave all _! long1 n>r[ webs       
accord+ to ! same sy/em2 b ,mr4 ,b&eli] 
has in=m$ me t ! ,indians ( ! ,pueblo ( 
,co*iti make ! n>r[ g>t]s & hair-b&s    
aft] ! mann] ( ! ,zunis1 & ! broad belts
 aft] ! mann] ( ! ,navajos4             
,illu/ration3 ,,pl4 ,,xxxviii4--,,br++  
,,d[n ,,! ,,batt54  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #ei4--;,girl weav+ 7f an ,aztec        
picture74  ,sec4 ,,xi4 ,i w close by    
invit+ ! read] to comp>e ,plate ,,xxxvi 
& ,fig4 #ei4 ,! =m] %[s a ,navajo woman 
weav+ a belt2 ! latt] a girl ( anci5t   
,mexico weav+ a web ( "s o!r            
description4 ,! "o is f a photograph1   
tak5 f life2 ! o!r ,i h copi$ f ,tylor's
 ,an?ropology 7p4 #bdh72 b x appe>s     
e>li] 9 ! copy ( ,codex ,vaticana 9 ,"l 
,k+sbor\gh's ,antiquities ( ,mexico4 ,! 
way 9 :i* ! w>p is held d[n & made t5se1
 by a rope or b& secur$ to ! l[] beam & 
sat ^u by ! weav]1 is ! same 9 bo?      

cases4 ,& x seems t ! arti/ :o drew !   
orig9al rude sket*1 s\ght to repres5t ! 
girl1 n z work+ ! cross-?read ( ! wo( 9 
& out on a /ick1 b z manipulat+ ! re$-=k
 ) "o h& & grasp+ ! heald-rod & %$-rod 9
 ! o!r4    ,,note4--,! engrav+s 7 prep>$
 :ile ! au?or 0 9 ,new   ,mexico & c\ld 
n be submitt$ = 8 inspection until !    
pap] 0 ready = ! press4 ,"s alt]ations 7
 made f !   orig9al pictures4 ,! foll[+ 
are ! mo/ important to be   not$3 ,9    
,plate ,,xxxviii ! batt5 %\ld appe> held
   horizontally1 n obliquely4 ,fig4 #e  
is r$uc$ & _c fairly   del9eate !       
gradations 9 color & regul> %>p outl9es 
(   ! f9ely-s]rat$ figures4 ,fig4 #ec   
does n convey ! fact t   ! /ripes are ( 
uni=m wid? & all ! "r-angles            
accurately made4         99       99    
99       99       99     ,,index        
,blankets1 ,navajo #chj-chh    ,codex1  
,! ,vatican2 ,illu/rat+ ,mexican weav+  
#cia   ,colors prep>$ = ,navajo fabrics 
#cgf   ,cotton wov5 9 ,pueblos1 ,native 
#cge    ,dye+ among ,navajoes #cgg      

,dyes us$ by ,navajoes #cgg    ,fabrics2
 ,prehi/oric textiles ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates 
#cic-dbe    ,healds ( ,navajo loom #cgh 
,mode ( apply+ ! #chj1 #chd     ,zuni   
#chi    ,looms1 ,navajo #cgg    ,ma!ws1 
,dr4 ,w41 ,navajo weav]s #cga-cia       
,navajo blankets1 ,v>ieties ( #che-chh  
,mode ( weav+ #chc     diagonal #chc    
diamond #chd     dye+ #cgg     dyes #cgf
     healds 9 loom us$ #chj     looms   
#cgg     position 9 weav+ #chj     w>p (
 blankets #cgh-cgi     sa% #chh         
weav]s #cga-cia     wool #cge           
,taylor1 ,e4,b41 ,an?ropology cit$ #cia 
,w>p1 ,con/ruction ( ,navajo blanket    
#cgh   ,w>p1 ,con/ruction ( ,navajo sa% 
#chh   ,weav]s1 ,navajo1 by ,dr4        
,wa%+ton ,ma!ws #cga-cia   ,weav+1      
,navajo position 9 #chj     wool by     
,navajoes #cge    ,zuni1 healds #chi    
99       99       99       99       99