de ,france 7,bn,f_/,gallica7 at         
http3_/_/gallica4bnf4fr7                
99       99       99       99       99  
,a ,,/udy ,,( ,,! ,,textile ,,art ,,9   
,,its ,,relation ,,to ,,! ,,developm5t  
,,( ,,=m ,,& ,,ornam5t  ,,by  ,,william 
,h4 ,,holmes4     ,six? ,annual ,report 
( ! ,bureau ( ,e?nology to ! ,secret>y (
 ! ,smi?sonian ,in/itution1 #ahhd-'he1  
,gov]nm5t ,pr9t+ ,(fice1 ,wa%+ton1      
#ahhh1 pages #ahi-beb          99       
99       99       99       99           
,,cont5ts4                              
,page ,introduction4                    
#aie   ,=m 9 textile art4               
#aif   ,relations ( =m to ornam5t4      
#bja   ,color 9 textile art4            
#bja  ,textile ornam5t4                 
#bjb   ,developm5t ( a geometric sy/em  
)9 ! art4                #bjb           
,introduction4                          
#bjb     ,relief ph5om5a4               
#bjc       ,ord9>y features4            
#bjc       ,reticulat$ "w4              
#baj       ,sup]con/ructive features4   

#baa     ,color ph5om5a4                
#bae       ,ord9>y features4            
#bae       ,non-ess5tial con/ructive    
features4                         #bbf  
,sup]con/ructive features4              
#bbh       ,adv5titi\s features4        
#bca   ,geometricity impos$ ^u adopt$   
elem5ts4                      #bcb      
,ext5sion ( textile ornam5t to o!r =ms (
 art4             #bdd                  
,,illu/rations4   ,,fig4                
,page4 #bhf4 ,mat or tray ) e/hetic     
attributes ( =m                  #aig   
#bhg4 ,tray hav+ decid$ e/hetic         
attributes ( =m               #aih #bhh4
 ,pyri=m wat] vessel                    
#aih #bhi4 ,basket ) e/hetic *>act]s (  
=m                       #aii #bij4     
,basket ( ecc5tric =m                   
#bjj #bia4 ,"* ( surface 9 ! simple/ =m 
( weav+          #bjd #bib4 ,surface    
produc$ by impact+                      
#bjd #bic4 ,surface produc$ by use (    
wide fillets                       #bjd 
#bid4 ,basket ) ribb$ surface           

#bje #bie4 ,bottle %[+ obliquely ribb$  
surface                       #bje #bif4
 ,tray %[+ radial ribs                  
#bje #big4 ,comb9ation giv+ h]r+ bone   
effect                        #bjf #bih4
 ,comb9ation giv+ triangul> figures     
#bjf #bii4 ,p]uvian "w basket           
#bjf #cjj4 ,basket ( ,sem9ole workman%ip
                                #bjg    
#cja4 ,surface effect produc$ 9 op5 tw9$
 comb9ation            #bjg #cjb4       
,surface effect produc$ 9 op5 tw9$      
comb9ation            #bjg #cjc4        
,surface effect produc$ by impact+ 9    
tw9$        comb9ation                  
#bjh #cjd4 ,surface effect produc$ by   
impact+ ! web /r&s        9 tw9$        
comb9ation                              
#bjh #cje4 ,surface effect produc$ by   
cross+ ! web s]ies        9 op5 tw9$ "w 
#bjh #cjf4 ,tray ) op5 me%1 tw9$        
comb9ation                       #bjh   
#cjg4 ,conical basket1 tw9$ comb9ation  
#bji #cjh4 ,example ( primitive         
reticulat$ weav+                        

#baj #cji4 ,simple =m ( reticulation    
#baa #caj4 ,reticulat$ patt]n 9 cotton  
clo?                           #baa     
#caa4 ,p]uvian embroid]y                
#bac #cab4 ,basket ) p5d5t ornam5ts     
#bac #cac4 ,basket ) p5d5t ornam5ts     
#bac #cad4 ,tassel$ ,p]uvian mantle     
#bad #cae4 ,patt]n produc$ by int]lac+  
/r&s ( diff]5t colors   #baf #caf4      
,patt]n produc$ by int]lac+ /r&s (      
diff]5t colors   #baf #cag4 ,patt]n     
produc$ by int]lac+ /r&s ( diff]5t      
colors   #baf #cah4 ,patt]n produc$ by  
int]lac+ /r&s ( diff]5t colors   #bag   
#cai4 ,base ( coil$ basket              
#bah #cbj4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric    
ornam5t                         #bah    
#cba4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric ornam5t 
#bai #cbb4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric    
ornam5t                         #bbj    
#cbc4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric ornam5t 
#bbj #cbd4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric    
ornam5t                         #bba    
#cbe4 ,coil$ basket ) geometric ornam5t 
#bbc #cbf4 ,coil$ tray ) geometric      

ornam5t                           #bbd  
#cbg4 ,coil$ tray ) geometric ornam5t   
#bbe #cbh4 ,tray ) geometric ornam5t    
#bbe #cbi4 ,tray ) geometric ornam5t    
#bbf #ccj4 ,ornam5t produc$ by wrapp+ ! 
/r&s                     #bbg #cca4     
,ornam5t produc$ by fix+ /r&s to !      
surface ( !        fabric               
#bbg #ccb4 ,basket ) fea!r ornam5tation 
#bbg #ccc4 ,basket ) fea!r ornam5tation 
#bbg #ccd4 ,piece ( clo? %[+ use (      
supplem5t>y w>p & wo(     #bbh #cce4    
,piece ( clo? %[+ use ( supplem5t>y w>p 
& wo(     #bbh #ccf4 ,example ( grass   
embroid]y                               
#bcj #ccg4 ,example ( fea!r embroid]y   
#bca #cch4 ,figures f ! ,p5n wampum belt
                             #bcc #cci4 
,figures f a ,cali=nia ,indian basket   
#bcd #cdj4 ,cali=nia ,indian basket     
#bcd #cda4 ,figures f a ,p]uvian basket 
#bce #cdb4 ,figure f a piece ( ,p]uvian 
gobel9s                      #bcf #cdc4 
,figures f a ,p]uvian vase              
#bcg #cdd4 ,figure f a circul> basket   

#bch #cde4 ,figure ( a bird f a ,zui    
%ield                           #bci    
#cdf4 ,figure ( a bird wov5 9 a tray    
#bdj #cdg4 ,figure ( a bird wov5 9 a    
basket                            #bda  
#cdh4 ,figures embroid]$ on a cotton net
 by ! anci5t        ,p]uvians           
#bdb #cdi4 ,figures ( birds embroid]$ by
 ! anci5t ,p]uvians         #bdc #cej4  
,conv5tional design pa9t$ ^u cotton clo?
                 #bdc #cea4 ,h]r+ bone &
 *eck] patt]ns produc$ 9 weav+          
#bdf #ceb4 ,h]r+ bone & *eck] patt]ns   
engrav$ 9 clay            #bdf #cec4    
,e>!n vase ) textile ornam5t            
#bdg #ced4 ,example ( textile ornam5t   
pa9t$ ^u pott]y              #bdh #cee4 
,textile patt]n transf]r$ to pott]y     
?r\gh co/ume        #bdh #cef4          
,c]emonial adz ) c>v$ ornam5t ( textile 
"*      #bej #ceg4 ,figures ^u a tapa   
/amp                                    
#bea #ceh4 ,design 9 /ucco exhibit+     
textile *>act]s                #bea     
,,textile ,,art ,,9 ,,its ,,relation    

,,to ,,! ,,developm5t ,,( ,,=m ,,&      
,,ornam5t4  ,,by ,,william ,h4 ,,holmes4
   ,,introduction4  ,! textile art is "o
 ( ! mo/ anci5t kn[n1 dat+ back to ! v  
inception ( culture4 ,9 primitive times 
x occupi$ a wide field1 embrac+ ! /ems (
 num]\s bran*es ( indu/ry n[ express$ 9 
o!r mat]ials or relegat$ to di/9ct      
sy/ems ( con/ruction4 ,accompany+ !     
gradual n>r[+ ( its sph]e !re 0 a /eady 
developm5t ) ! g5]al increase (         
intellig5ce & skill s t ) ! cultur$     
nations ( to-day x takes an important1  
?\gh unobtrusive1 place 9 ! hi]>*y ( !  
arts4  ,wov5 fabrics include all ^?     
products ( art 9 :i* ! elem5ts or p>ts  
employ$ 9 con/ruction are l>gely        
filam5tal & are comb9$ by me?ods        
condition$ *iefly by _! flexibility4 ,! 
processes employ$ are kn[n by su* t]ms z
 int]lac+1 plait+1 nett+1 weav+1 sew+1 &
 embroid]+4  ,! mat]ials us$ at fir/ are
 *iefly fili=m vegetal gr[?s1 su* z     
twigs1 leaves1 roots1 & grasses1 b lat] 
on fili=m & !n fibr\s elem5ts f all !   

k+doms ( nature1 z well z num]\s        
artificial prep>ations1 are freely us$4 
,^! are employ$ 9 ! s+le1 d\bl$1 d\bl$ &
 twi/$1 & plait$ conditions1 & are      
comb9$ by ! h&s alone1 by ! h&s assi/$  
by simple devices1 by h& looms1 & f9ally
 9 civilization by ma*9e looms4  ,!     
products are1 fir/1 individual /ructures
 or articles1 su* z %elt]s1 baskets1    
nets1 & g>m5ts1 or integral p>ts ( ^!2  
&1 second1 piece goods1 su* z are n     
adapt$ to use until !y are cut & fitt$4 
,9 e>li] /ages ( art we h to deal almo/ 
exclusively ) ! =m] class1 z ! tailor & 
! h\se furni%] are evolv$ )             
civilization4  ,9 _! be>+ ^u art ^!     
products are to be /udi$ *iefly )       
ref]5ce to ?ree gr& divisions ( ph5om5a1
 ! fir/ ( :i* ,i %all d5om9ate          
con/ructive1 ! second functional1 & !   
?ird e/hetic4 ,! la/ class1 ) :i* ?is   
pap] has almo/ exclusively to deal1 is  
compos$ ma9ly ( :at may be call$ !      
sup]con/ructive & sup]functional        
features ( ! art & includes ?ree        

subdivisions ( ph5om5a1 connect$        
respectively ) 7#a7 =m1 7#b7 color1 &   
7#c7 design4 ,e/hetic features ( =m are1
 9 orig9 & manife/ation1 relat$ to bo?  
function & con/ruction2 color & design1 
to con/ruction ma9ly4 ,9 ! foll[+ /udy  
sep>ate sections are giv5 to ea* ( ^!   
topics4  ,x is =tunate p]haps t 9 ?is "w
 ,i am re/rict$ to ! products ( r       
primitive /ages ( culture1 z ,i h ?us to
 deal ) a limit$ numb] ( uses1 simple   
processes1 & simple %apes4 ,9 ! advanc$ 
/ages ( art we enc\nt] complex ph5om5a1 
processes1 & conditions1 ! accumulation 
( ages1 ?r\gh :i* no broad light c fall 
^u ! field ( vision4  ,9 ,am]ica !re is 
a va/ body ( primitive1 indig5\s art    
hav+ no p>allel 9 ! _w4 ,uncontam9at$ by
 contact ) ! complex conditions (       
civiliz$ art1 x (f]s ! be/ possible     
facilities = ! /udy ( ! fundam5tal      
pr9ciples ( e/hetic developm5t4  ,! laws
 ( evolution correspond closely 9 all   
art1 &1 if once rightly int]pret$ 9 !   
incipi5t /age ( a s+le1 homog5e\s       

culture1 are traceable ) comp>ative ease
 ?r\gh all ! succe$+ /ages (            
civilization4   ,,=m ,,9 ,,textile      
,,art4  ,=m 9 ! textile art1 z 9 all o!r
 useful arts1 is fundam5tally1 al?\gh n 
exclusively1 ! resultant or expression (
 function1 b at ! same "t x is fur!r ?an
 9 o!r %ap+ arts f express+ ! :ole (    
function4 ,su* is ! pliability ( a l>ge 
portion ( textile products--z1 =        
example1 nets1 g>m5ts1 & hang+s--t !    
%apes assum$ are v>iable1 &1 !re=e1 :5 n
 di/5d$ or = "s purpose fold$ or drap$1 
! articles are )\t e/hetic value or     
int]e/4 ,! m rigid objects1 9 common ) !
 individuals ( o!r useful arts1 :ile _! 
%ape /ill accords ) _! functional (fice1
 exhibit attributes ( =m g5]ally        
recogniz$ z pleas+ to ! m9d1 :i* are    
express$ by ! t]ms grace1 elegance1     
symmetry1 & ! l4 ,su* attributes are n  
sep>able f functional attributes1 b     
orig9ate & exi/ conjo9tly ) !m4  ,9     
addition to ^! features ( =m we obs]ve  
o!rs ( a m decid$ly sup]functional "*1  

add$ manife/ly = ! purpose ( enhanc+ !  
appe>ance4  ,9 v primitive times :5 a   
ut5sil is produc$ functional ideas      
pr$om9ate1 & !re is1 p]haps1 s f> z its 
artificial *>act]s are conc]n$1 a m9imum
 ( comel9ess4 ,b z ! ages pass by       
ess5tial features are ref9$ & elem5ts ( 
beauty are add$ & emphasiz$4 ,9 rip]    
culture ! gr[+ pressure ( e/hetic desire
 leads to ! addition ( _m sup]ficial    
modifications ^: *ief (fice is to please
 ! fancy4 ,9 p]iods ( dead5$ s5sibility 
or ev5 ?r\gh ! incompet5ce ( individual 
arti/s 9 any p]iod1 su* features may be 
ill *os5 & errone\sly appli$1 int]f]+ ) 
con/ruction & use1 & ?us violat+ well   
f\nd$ & g5]ally accept$ canons ( ta/e4  
,9 respect to primitive works we may    
di/+ui% f\r /eps 9 ! acquisition (      
e/hetic features ( =m1 ?ree ( :i* are   
normal1 ! f\r? abnormal3 ,fir/1 we h t 9
 :i* functional *>act]s alone are       
consid]$1 any elem5t ( beauty1 :e!r due 
to ! arti/'s h& or to ! accid5ts (      
mat]ial1 con/ruction1 or model1 be+     

purely adv5titi\s2 second1 t 9 :i* !    
necess>y features ( ! ut5sil appe> to h 
exp]i5c$ ! sup]vision ( ta/e1 edges be+ 
r\nd$1 curves ref9$1 & symmetry p]fect$2
 ?ird1 t 9 :i* ! functionally p]fect    
object1 j describ$1 und]goes fur!r      
v>iations ( cont\r1 add+ to v>iety1     
unity1 c41 ?us enhanc+ beauty )\t       
int]f]+ ) s]viceability2 &1 f\r?1 t 9   
:i*1 "u abnormal influ5ces1 beauty is   
s\ght at ! sacrifice ( functional &     
con/ructive p]fection4  ,illu/ration3   
,,fig4 #bhf4 ,mat or tray exhibit+ a    
m9imum ( e/hetic attributes ( =m4 ,moki 
"w--#a_/h4  ,! exact relations ( ! v>i\s
 classes ( =ces & ph5om5a p]ta9+ to ?is 
!me may be m fully elucidat$ by ! aid ( 
illu/rations4 ,wov5 mats1 9 e>ly use by 
_m tribes ( m5 & orig9at+ 9 ! attempt to
 comb9e leaves1 v9es1 & bran*es =       
purposes ( com=t1 are flat because (    
function1 ! degree ( flatness dep5d+ ^u 
! size ( filam5ts & mode ( comb9ation2 &
 9 outl9e !y are irregul>1 squ>e1 r\nd1 
or oval1 z a result ( _m causes &       

influ5ces1 embrac+ use1 con/ruction1    
mat]ial1 models1 c4 ,a close approa* to 
symmetry1 :]e n impos$ by "s ( ! above  
m5tion$ ag5cies1 is probably due to     
e/hetic t5d5cies on ! "p ( ! arti/4 ,!  
e/hetic int]e/ atta*+ to su* a %ape _c  
be great1 unless p]haps x be reg>d$1 z  
all individuals & classes may be reg>d$1
 9 its possible relations to prec$+1    
associat$1 & succe$+ =ms ( art4 ,! v>i$ 
features obs]v$ ^u ! surface1 ! colors &
 patt]ns 7,fig4 #bhf71 p]ta9 to design r
 ?an to =m & w receive att5tion 9 !     
prop] place4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhg4
 ,tray hav+ decid$ e/hetic attributes ( 
=m4 ,obta9$ f ! ,apa*e--#a_/b4  ,9 po9t 
( cont\r ! basket tray %[n 9 ,fig4 #bhg 
has a some:at m decid$ claim ^u e/hetic 
att5tion ?an ! prec$+1 z ! curves       
exhibit$ m>k a /ep ( progress 9         
complexity & grace4 ,h[ mu* ( ?is is due
 to int5tion & h[ mu* to te*nical       
p]fection mu/ rema9 9 d\bt4 ,9 "w s     
p]fect we are wont1 h[ev] unw>rantably1 
to recognize ! influ5ce ( ta/e4         

,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhh4 ,pyri=m wat] 
vessel us$ by ! ,piute ,indians--#a_/h4 
,a ?ird example--pres5t$ 9 ,fig4        
#bhh--;illu/rates an advanc$ /age 9 !   
art ( basketry & exhibits a highly      
specializ$ %ape4 ,! =ces & influ5ces    
conc]n$ 9 its evolution may be analyz$ z
 foll[s3 ,a primal orig9 9 function & a 
f9al adaptation to a special function1 !
 c>ry+ & /or+ ( wat]2 a cont\r full to  
give capacity1 n>r[ above = safety1 &   
po9t$ bel[ t x may be set 9 s&2 curves  
kept )9 c]ta9 b\nds by ! limitations (  
con/ruction2 & a goodly %>e ( v>iety1   
symmetry1 & grace1 ! result to a c]ta9  
undet]m9$ ext5t ( ! e/hetic t5d5cies ( !
 arti/'s m9d4 ,9 reg>d to ! la/ po9t !re
 is g5]ally 9 =ms s simple an elem5t (  
unc]ta9ty2 b _m examples may be f\nd 9  
:i* !re is positive evid5ce ( ! exi/5ce 
( a /rong desire on ! "p ( ! primitive  
basketmak] to enhance beauty ( =m4 ,x w 
be obs]v$ t ! textile mat]ials &        
con/ruction d n l5d !mselves freely to  
m9ut5ess 9 detail or to complexity (    

outl9e1 especially 9 ^? small ways 9 :i*
 beauty is mo/ readily express$4        
,modifications ( a decid$ly e/hetic "*  
are g5]ally sugge/$ to ! primitive m9d  
by "s functional1 con/ructive1 or       
accid5tal feature :i* may ) ease be     
turn$ 9 ! new direction4 ,9 ! vessel    
pres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #bhi--! "w ( ,alaskan   
,indians--! m>g9 is v>i$ by alt]+ !     
relations ( ! ?ree m>g9al turns ( !     
coil1 produc+ a scallop$ effect4 ,?is is
 )\t ref]5ce to use1 is uncall$ = 9     
con/ruction1 & h5ce is1 9 all           
probability1 ! direct result ( e/hetic  
t5d5cies4 ,o!r & mu* m elaborate        
examples may be f\nd 9 ! basketry (     
almo/ all c\ntries4  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #bhi4 ,vessel ) e/hetic *>act]s (
 =m4 ,"w ( ! ,yakama--#a_/d4  ,9 !      
pursuit ( ?is class ( enri*m5t !re is   
occasionally noticeable a t5d5cy to     
ov]load ! subject ) extrane\s details4  
,?is is n apt to occur1 h[ev]1 9 !      
indig5\s practice ( an art1 b comes m   
frequ5tly f a loss ( equilibrium or     

balance 9 motives or desires1 caus$ by  
unt[>d exotic influ5ce4 ,:51 ?r\gh      
sugge/ions d]iv$ f contact ) civiliz$   
art1 ! savage und]takes to secure all ! 
grace & complexity obs]v$ 9 ! works ( m 
cultur$ peoples1 he does s at ! exp5se (
 con/ruction & adaptability to use4 ,an 
example ( su* "w is pres5t$ 9 ,fig4     
#bij1 a weak1 useless1 & :olly vici\s   
piece ( basketry4 ,o!r equally          
m]etrici\s pieces repres5t goblets1     
bottles1 & tea pots4 ,!y are ! "w ( !   
,indians ( ! nor?we/ coa/ & are execut$ 
9 ! neate/ possible mann]1 be>+ evid5ce 
( ! exi/5ce ( cultivat$ ta/e4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bij4 ,basket made 
"u =eign influ5ce1 con/ruction & use be+
 sacrific$ to fanci$ beauty--#a_/c4  ,x 
appe>s f ! prec$+ analyses t =m 9 ?is   
art is n suffici5tly s5sitive to receive
 impressions readily f ! delicate t\* ( 
e/hetic f+]s2 besides1 !re are peculi>  
difficulties 9 ! way ( detect+ traces ( 
! pres5ce & sup]vision ( ta/e4 ,! inh]5t
 morphologic =ces ( ! art are /rong &   

/ubborn & t5d to produce ! precise      
classes ( results t we1 at ?is /age (   
culture1 are incl9$ to attribute to     
e/hetic influ5ce4 ,if1 9 ! mak+ ( a     
vessel1 ! dem&s ( use are fully         
satisfi$1 if con/ruction is p]fect ( its
 k9d1 if mat]ials are uni=mly suitable1 
& if models are n absolutely bad1 x     
foll[s t ! result mu/ necess>ily possess
 9 a high degree ^? v attributes t all  
agree are pleas+ to ! eye4  ,9 a        
primitive wat] vessel function gives a  
full outl9e1 z capacity is a prime      
consid]ation2 conv5i5ce ( use calls = a 
n>r[ neck & a conical base2 con/ruction 
& mat]ials unite to impose c]ta9        
limitations to curves & _! comb9ations1 
f :i* ! arti/ _c readily free himself4  
,models furni%$ by nature1 z !y are     
usually graceful1 d n int]f]e ) ! prec$+
 ag5cies1 & all ^! =ces unit$ t5d to    
give symmetry1 grace1 & ! unity t       
belongs to simplicity4 ,ta/e :i* is 9 a 
=mative /ate c b fall 9 ) ^! t5d5cies ( 
! art1 & mu/ be l$ by !m1 & l$ 9 a      

measure correspond+ to _! p]si/5cy &    
univ]sality4 ,if ! textile art _h be5 ! 
only "o kn[n to man1 ideas ( ! e/hetic 9
 %ape w\ld h be5 9 a great measure =m$  
?r\gh t art4 ,natural =ms w\ld h _h     
little to d ) x except ?r\gh models     
furni%$ directly to & utiliz$ by ! art1 
= ! ideas ( primitive m5 conc5trate ab\t
 t ^u :i* _! h&s "w & ^u :i* _! ?\ghts f
 necessity dwell ) /eady att5tion f     
g5]ation to g5]ation4   ,,relations ,,( 
,,=m ,,to ,,ornam5t4  ,x w\ld seem t !  
e/hetic t5d5cies ( ! m9d1 fail+ to f9d  
satisfactory expression 9 %ape1 seiz$ ^u
 ! non-ess5tial features ( ! art--m>k+s 
( ! surface & color ( filam5ts--creat+ a
 new field 9 :i* to labor & exp5d+ _!   
en]gy ^u ornam5t4  ,%ape has "s direct  
relations to ornam5t1 & ^! relations may
 be classifi$ z foll[s3  ,fir/1 ! cont\r
 ( ! vessel controls its ornam5t to a   
l>ge ext5t1 dictat+ ! positions ( design
 & sett+ its limits2 figures are 9      
/ripes1 zones1 rays1 circles1 ovals1 or 
rectangles--accord+1 9 no slight        

measure1 to ! "* ( ! spaces af=d$ by    
details ( cont\r4 ,secondly1 x affects  
ornam5t ?r\gh ! reproduction &          
repetition ( features ( =m1 su* z h&les1
 = ornam5tal purposes4 ,?irdly1 x is    
probable t %ape influ5ces embelli%m5t   
?r\gh ! peculi> bias giv5 by x to ! ta/e
 & judgm5t ( m5 prior to or indep5d5t ( 
! employm5t ( ornam5t4   ,,color ,,9    
,,textile ,,art4  ,color is "o ( ! mo/  
con/ant factors 9 man's environm5t1 & x 
is s /rongly & p]si/5tly =c$ ^u 8       
att5tion1 s useful z a means (          
id5tification & di/9ction1 t x          
necess>ily receives a l>ge %>e (        
consid]ation4 ,x is probably "o ( !     
=emo/ objective ag5cies 9 ! =mation &   
developm5t ( ! e/hetic s5se4  ,! natural
 colors ( textile mat]ials are enorm\sly
 v>i$ & =m "o ( ! *ief attractions ( !  
products ( ! art4 ,! great int]e/ tak5 9
 color--! great importance atta*$ to    
x--is atte/$ by ! v g5]al use ( dyes1 by
 means ( :i* additional v>iety &        
brilliancy ( effect are secur$4  ,color 

employ$ 9 ! art is n relat$ to use1     
except+1 p]haps1 9 symbolic & sup]/iti\s
 matt]s2 nor is x ( consequ5ce 9        
con/ruction1 al?\gh x d]ives importance 
f ! mann] 9 :i* con/ruction causes x to 
be manife/$ to ! eye4 ,x f9ds its *ief  
use 9 ! field ( design1 9 mak+ evid5t to
 ! eye ! figures ) :i* objects ( art are
 embelli%$4  ,color is employ$ or appli$
 9 two di/9ct ways3 x is wov5 or work$  
into ! fabric by us+ color$ filam5ts or 
p>ts1 or x is add$ to ! surface ( !     
complet$ object by means ( p5cils1      
bru%es1 & dies4 ,its employm5t 9 ! latt]
 mann] is especially conv5i5t :5 complex
 ideographic or pictorial subjects are  
to be execut$4   ,,textile ,,ornam5t4   
,,developm5t ,,( ,a ,,geometric ,,sy/em 
,,( ,,design ,,)9 ,,! ,,art4            
,,introduction4  ,hav+ made a brief /udy
 ( =m & color 9 ! textile art1 ,i %all  
n[ pres5t ! great gr\p or family (      
ph5om5a ^: exclusive (fice is t (       
enhanc+ beauty4 ,x w be necess>y1 h[ev]1
 to pres5t1 besides ^? features ( ! art 

prop]ly expressive ( ! e/hetic culture (
 ! race1 all ^? ph5om5a t1 be+ pres5t 9 
! art )\t man's volition1 t5d to sugge/ 
decorative conceptions & give %ape to   
!m4 ,i %all %[ h[ ! latt] class (       
features arise z a necessity ( ! art1 h[
 !y gradually come into notice & are    
seiz$ ^u by ! e/hetic faculty1 & h[ "u  
its guidance !y assi/ 9 ! developm5t ( a
 sy/em ( ornam5t ( _w wide application4 
,= conv5i5ce ( treatm5t e/hetic ph5om5a 
may be class$ z reliev$ & flat4 ,figures
 or patt]ns ( a relievo nature arise    
dur+ con/ruction z a result ( !         
int]sections & o!r m complex            
relations--! b9d+s--( ! w>p & wo( or (  
ins]t$ or appli$ elem5ts4 ,flat or      
surface features are manife/$ 9 color1  
ei!r 9 unison ) or indep5d5t ( ! reliev$
 details4 ,su* is ! nature ( ! textile  
art t 9 its ord9>y practice c]ta9       
comb9ations ( bo? classes ( features g  
on z a necessity ( ! art & :olly )\t    
ref]5ce to ! desire ( ! arti/ or to !   
effect ( resultant patt]ns ^u ! eye4 ,! 

"* ( su* figures dep5ds ^u ! k9d (      
con/ruction & ^u ! accid5tal association
 ( natural colors 9 con/ruction4  ,at "s
 p]iod ( ! practice ( ! art ^! peculi>1 
adv5titi\s surface *>act]s began to     
attract att5tion & to be *]i%$ = !      
pleasure !y gave2 :at 7 at fir/         
adv5titi\s features n[ took on functions
 peculi> to !mselves1 = !y 7 f\nd to    
gratify desires di/9ct f ^? crav+s t    
arise directly f physical wants4  ,x is 
n to be suppos$ = a mom5t t ! inception 
( e/hetic notions dates f ?is           
association ( ideas ( beauty ) textile  
*>act]s4 ,long be=e textile objects ( a 
high class 7 made1 ideas ( an e/hetic   
nature _h be5 ent]ta9$ by ! m9d1 z1 =   
example1 9 connection ) p]sonal         
adornm5t4 ,! sk9 _h be5 pa9t$1 p5dants  
plac$ ab\t ! neck1 & bright fea!rs set 9
 ! hair to enhance attractiv5ess1 & x is
 n difficult to conceive ( ! transf] (  
su* ideas f purely p]sonal associations 
to ! embelli%m5t ( articles intimately  
associat$ ) ! p]son4 ,no matt]1 h[ev]1  

:at ! p]iod or mann] ( ! association (  
su* ideas ) ! textile art1 t association
 may be tak5 z ! datum po9t 9 !         
developm5t ( a great sy/em ( decoration 
^: di/+ui%+ *>act]s are ! result ( !    
geometric textile con/ruction4  ,9      
amplify+ ?is subject ,i f9d x conv5i5t  
to treat sep>ately ! two classes (      
decorative ph5om5a--! reliev$ & !       
flat--not)/&+ ! fact t !y are = ! mo/ "p
 intimately associat$ & act toge!r 9 !  
accompli%m5t ( a common end4   ,,relief 
,,ph5om5a4  ,ord9>y features4--,!       
reliev$ surface *>act]s ( fabrics       
result+ f con/ruction & available =     
decoration are m or less di/9ctly       
p]ceptible to ! eye & to ! t\* & are    
susceptible ( unlimit$ v>iation 9 detail
 & arrangem5t4 ,su* features are famili>
 to all 9 ! /rongly m>k$ ridges (       
basketry1 & mu* m pleas+ly s 9 !        
delicate figures ( damasks1 embroid]ies1
 & laces4 ,s long z ! figures produc$   
are conf9$ exclusively to ! necess>y    
features ( unembelli%$ con/ruction1 z is

 ! case 9 v primitive "w & 9 all pla9   
"w1 ! resultant patt]ns are :olly       
geometric & by endless repetition ( l   
p>ts extremely monoton\s4  ,9 "r angl$  
weav+ ! figures comb9e 9 /raight l9es1  
:i* run p>allel or cross at uni=m       
di/ances & angles4 ,9 radiate weav+1 z 9
 basketry1 ! radial l9es are cross$ 9 an
 equally =mal mann] by conc5tric l9es4  
,9 o!r classes ( comb9ation !re is an   
almo/ equal degree ( geometricity4  ,:51
 h[ev]1 ) ! gr[? ( intellig5ce & skill x
 is f\nd t great] v>iety ( effect c be  
secur$ by modify+ ! ess5tial comb9ations
 ( p>ts1 & t1 too1 )\t int]f]+ )        
con/ructive p]fection or ) use1 a new & 
wide field is op5$ = ! developm5tal     
t5d5cies ( textile decoration4          
,moreov]1 9 addition to ! facilities    
af=d$ by ! necess>y elem5ts (           
con/ruction1 !re are _m extrane\s       
res\rces ( :i* ! textile decorator may  
freely avail himself4 ,! "* ( ^! is su* 
t ! results1 h[ev] v>i$1 h>monize       
?or\ghly ) indig5\s textile =ms4  ,to   

make ^! po9ts q cle> x w be necess>y to 
analyze some:at closely ! "* & scope (  
textile comb9ation & ( ! resultant &    
associat$ ph5om5a4  ,we may di/+ui% two 
broad classes ( con/ructive ph5om5a made
 use ( 9 ! expression ( reliev$         
enri*m5t4 ,z indicat$ above1 ^! are1    
fir/1 ess5tial or actual con/ructive    
features &1 second1 extra or            
sup]con/ructive features4  ,fir/1 x is  
f\nd t 9 ! practice ( primitive textile 
art a v>iety ( me?ods ( comb9ation or   
b9d+s ( ! p>ts h be5 evolv$ & utiliz$1 &
 we obs]ve t ea* ( ^!--no matt] :at !   
mat]ial or :at ! size & "* ( ! filam5tal
 elem5ts--gives rise to di/9ct classes (
 surface effects4 ,?us x appe>s t       
peoples :o happ5 to discov] & use l     
comb9ations produce k9dr$ decorative    
results1 :ile ^? employ+ unlike         
con/ructions a*ieve di/9ct classes (    
surface embelli%m5t4 ,^! con/ructive    
peculi>ities h a pretty decid$ effect ^u
 ! /yle ( ornam5t1 reliev$ or color$1 & 
mu/ be c>efully consid]$ 9 ! treatm5t ( 

design2 b x is f\nd t ea* type (        
comb9ation has a greatly v>i$ capacity (
 expression1 t5d+ to oblit]ate %>p l9es 
( dem>kation betwe5 ! gr\ps ( results4  
,x sometimes ev5 happ5s t 9 di/9ct types
 ( weav+ almo/ id5tical surface effects 
are produc$4  ,x w n be necess>y 9 ?is  
connection to pres5t a full s]ies ( !   
fundam5tal b9d+s or ord]s ( comb9ation1 
z a few w suffice to illu/rate !        
pr9ciples involv$ & to make cle> ! be>+ 
( ?is class ( ph5om5a ^u decoration4 ,i 
*oose1 fir/1 a numb] ( examples f !     
simple/ type ( weav+1 t 9 :i* ! web & ! 
wo( are m]ely int]lac$1 ! filam5ts      
cross+ at "r angles or ne>ly s4 ,9 ,fig4
 #bia we h ! result exhibit$ 9 a pla9   
op5 or reticulat$ fabric con/ruct$ f    
ord9>y untwi/$ fillets1 su* z are       
employ$ 9 our spl9t & cane products4    
,fig4 #bib illu/rates ! surface produc$ 
by cr[d+ ! horizontal s]ies ( ! same    
fabric close toge!r1 s t ! v]tical s]ies
 is entirely hidd54 ,! surface "h       
exhibits a succession ( v]tical ribs1 an

 effect totally di/9ct f t se5 9 !      
prec$+ example4 ,! ?ird v>iety 7,fig4   
#bic7 diff]s b slightly f ! fir/4 ,!    
fillets are wid] & are set close toge!r 
)\t cr[d+1 giv+ ! surface a *eck]$      
appe>ance4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bia4  
,surface relief 9 simple/ =m (          
int]section4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bib4
 ,surface relief produc$ by horizontal  
s]ies cr[d$ toge!r4  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #bic4 ,surface relief produc$ by 
wide fillets set close toge!r4  ,!      
second v>iety ( surface effect is t mo/ 
frequ5tly se5 9 ! basketry ( our we/]n  
tribes1 z x results f ! great degree (  
compactness necess>y 9 vessels int5d$ to
 conta9 liquids1 semiliquid foods1 or   
pulv]iz$ sub/ances4 ,! g5]al surface    
effect giv5 by closely wov5 "w is       
illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bid1 :i* repres5ts a 
l>ge wick] c>ry+ basket obta9$ f ! ,moki
 ,indians4 ,9 ?is in/ance ! ridges1 due 
to a heavy s]ies ( radiat+ w>p filam5ts1
 are se5 9 a v]tical position4          
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bid4 ,basket %[+  

ribb$ surface produc$ by impact+ !      
horizontal or conc5tric filam5ts4 ,moki 
"w--#a_/h4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bie4  
,alt]nation ( int]section1 produc+      
oblique or spiral ribs4 ,piute          
"w--#a_/h4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bif4  
,radiat+ ribs z se5 9 flat "w view$ f   
above4 ,moki "w--#a_/d4  ,x w be obs]v$1
 h[ev]1 t ! ridges d n necess>ily take !
 direction ( ! w>p filam5ts1 =1 ) a     
diff]5t alt]nation ( ! horizontal       
s]ies--! wo(--we get oblique ridges1 z  
%[n 9 ! p>tly f9i%$ bottle illu/rat$ 9  
,fig4 #bie4 ,!y are1 h[ev]1 n s pron\nc$
 z 9 ! prec$+ case4 ,! peculi> effect ( 
radiate & conc5tric weav+ ^u ! ribs is  
well %[n 9 ,fig4 #bif4  ,by *anges 9 !  
ord] ( int]section1 )\t *ang+ ! type (  
comb9ation1 we rea* a s]ies ( results q 
unlike ! prec$+2 s di/9ct1 inde$1 t1    
ab/ract$ f con/ructive relation%ips1 !re
 w\ld be little sugge/ion ( correlation4
 ,9 ! example giv5 9 ,fig4 #big ! s]ies 
( filam5ts int]lace1 n by pass+ ov] & "u
 alt]nate /r&s1 z 9 ! prec$+ set (      

examples1 b by ext5d+ ov] & "u a numb] (
 ! oppos+ s]ies at ea* /ep & 9 su* ord] 
z to give wide horizontal ridges ribb$  
diagonally4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #big4 
,diagonal comb9ation1 giv+ h]r+ bone    
effect4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bih4     
,elaboration ( diagonal comb9ation1 giv+
 triangul> figures4  ,?is example is f  
an anci5t "w basket obta9$ at ,ancon1   
,p]u1 & %[n 9 ,fig4 #bii4 ,! surface    
features are 9 /rong relief1 giv+ a     
pron\nc$ h]r+ bone effect4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bii4 ,p]uvian "w  
basket ( re$s1 ) /rongly reliev$ ridges4
  ,slight *anges 9 ! succession ( p>ts  
enable ! workman to produce a great     
v>iety ( decorative patt]ns1 an example 
( :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bih4 ,a good      
illu/ration is also se5 9 ,fig4 #bhf1 & 
ano!r piece1 said to be ( ,sem9ole      
workman%ip1 is giv5 9 ,fig4 #cjj4 ,^! & 
simil> reliev$ results are fruitful     
s\rces ( primitive decorative motives4  
,!y are employ$ n only )9 ! art itself1 
b 9 _m o!r arts less lib]ally suppli$ ) 

sugge/ions ( embelli%m5t4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #cjj4 ,effects produc$ by v>y+ !
 ord] ( int]section4 ,sem9ole "w--#a_/h4
  ,tak+ a second type ( comb9ation1 we h
 a family ( resultant patt]ns 9 ! ma9   
di/+ui%able f ! prec$+4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #cja4 ,surface effect 9 op5 tw9$ 
comb9ation4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjb4 
,surface effect ( tw9$1 lattice         
comb9ation 9 basketry ( ! ,clallam      
,indians ( ,wa%+ton ,t]ritory--#a_/h4   
,fig4 #cja illu/rates ! simple/ =m ( :at
 ,dr4 ,o4,t4 ,mason has call$ ! tw9$    
comb9ation1 a favorite "o ) _m ( our    
native tribes4 ,! /r&s ( ! wo( s]ies are
 arrang$ 9 twos & 9 weav+ are twi/$ half
 ar\nd at ea* int]section1 inclos+ !    
oppos+ fillets4 ,! result+ op5 "w has   
mu* ! appe>ance ( ord9>y nett+1 & :5 (  
pliable mat]ials & di/5d$ or /ra9$ ov]  
an e>!n or g\rd vessel ! patt]n exhibit$
 is /rik+ly sugge/ive ( decoration4 ,!  
result ( ?is comb9ation ^u a lattice    
f\ndation ( rigid mat]ials is well %[n 9
 ! l>ge basket pres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #cjb4    

,o!r v>iants ( ?is type are giv5 9 !    
?ree succe$+ figures4  ,illu/ration3    
,,fig4 #cjc4 ,surface effect 9 impact$  
"w ( tw9$ comb9ation4  ,! result se5 9  
,fig4 #cjc is obta9$ by impact+ !       
horizontal or tw9$ s]ies ( ?reads4 ,!   
surface is ne>ly id5tical ) t ( !       
closely impact$ example ( ! prec$+ type 
7,fig4 #bib74 ,! peculi>ities are m m>k$
 :5 colors are us$4 ,:5 ! d\bl$ & twi/$ 
s]ies ( /r&s are plac$ f> ap>t & !      
oppos+ s]ies are laid side by side a    
pleas+ result is giv51 z %[n 9 ,fig4    
#cjd & 9 ! body ( ! conical basket      
illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cjg4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #cjd4 ,surface effect obta9$ by  
plac+ ! w>p /r&s close toge!r & ! wo(   
cables f> ap>t4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#cje4 ,surface effect obta9$ by cross+ !
 w>p s]ies 9 op5 tw9$ "w4  ,9 ,fig4 #cje
 we h a peculi> diagonally cross$       
arrangem5t ( ! untwi/$ s]ies ( filam5ts1
 giv+ a lattice "w effect4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjf4 ,decorative  
effects produc$ by v>iations 9 ! radiate

 or w>p s]ies 9 an op5 "w tray4 ,klama? 
"w--#a_/d4  ,fig4 #cjf s]ves to %[ h[   
readily ?is /yle ( weav+ l5ds itself to 
! production ( decorative modification1 
especially 9 ! direction ( ! conc5tric  
zonal arrangem5t s univ]sal 9           
vessel-mak+ arts4  ,! examples giv5 s]ve
 to indicate ! unlimit$ decorative      
res\rces possess$ by ! art )\t employ+  
any b legitimate con/ructive elem5ts1 & 
x w be se5 t /ill wid] results c be     
obta9$ by comb9+ two or m v>ieties or   
/yles ( b9d+ 9 ! con/ruction & !        
embelli%m5t ( a s+le object or 9 ! same 
piece ( fabric4 ,a good1 ?\gh v simple1 
illu/ration ( ?is is %[n 9 ! tray or mat
 pres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #bhf4 ,9 ?is case a    
bord]1 v>y+ f ! c5t] portion 9          
appe>ance1 is obta9$ by *ang+ "o s]ies (
 ! filam5ts f a multiple to a s+le      
arrangem5t4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjg4 
,conical basket ( ! ,klama? ,indians (  
,oregon1 %[+ peculi> tw9$ effect & an   
op5 "w bord]--#a_/h4  ,! conical basket 
%[n 9 ,fig4 #cjg s]ves to illu/rate !   

same po9t4 ,9 ?is case a rudely work$1  
?\gh effective1 bord] is secur$ by *ang+
 ! angle ( ! upright s]ies ne> ! top &  
comb9+ !m by plait+1 & 9 su* a way z to 
leave a bord] ( op5 "w4  ,n[ ! two types
 ( con/ruction1 ! int]lac$ & ! tw9$1 "s 
primitive phases ( :i* h be5 review$ &  
illu/rat$1 z !y are c>ri$ =w>d 9 !      
te*nical progress ( ! art1 exhibit _m   
new features ( comb9ation & resultant   
surface "*1 b ! elaboration is 9 all    
cases along l9es peculi> to ^! types (  
weav+4  ,o!r types ( comb9ation ( web & 
wo(1 all tape/ry1 & all braid+1 nett+1  
knitt+1 cro*et1 & ne$le "w exhibit      
*>act]s peculi> to !mselves1 develop+   
di/9ct gr\ps ( reliev$ results2 yet all 
are analog\s 9 pr9ciple to ^? already   
illu/rat$ & unite 9 c>ry+ =w>d ! same   
great geometric sy/em ( comb9ation4     
,reticulat$ "w4--,a few p>agraphs may be
 add$ "h 9 reg>d to reticulat$ fabrics (
 all classes ( comb9ation1 z !y exhibit 
m ?an usually int]e/+ relievo ph5om5a & 
h a decid$ be>+ ^u ! gr[? ( ornam5t4  ,9

 all ! primitive weav+ ) :i* we are     
acqua9t$ def9ite reticulat$ patt]ns are 
produc$ by v>iations 9 ! spac+s & o!r   
relations ( ! w>p & wo(2 & ! same is    
true 9 all ! high] =ms ( ! art4 ,!      
production ( reticulat$ "w is ! especial
 function ( nett+1 knitt+1 cro*et+1 &   
c]ta9 v>ieties ( ne$lework1 & a great   
div]sity ( reliev$ results are produc$1 
no figure be+ too complex & no =m too   
pron\nc$ to be und]tak5 by ambiti\s     
workm54  ,9 ! foll[+ figures we h       
illu/rations ( ! peculi> class (        
primitive exp]im5ts t1 aft] ! lapse (   
ages1 lead up to m>vel\s results1 !     
highe/ ( :i* may be f\nd 9 ! exquisite  
laces ( cultur$ peoples4 ,! ,am]icans _h
 only tak5 ! fir/ /eps 9 ?is peculi>    
art1 b ! results are on ?is acc\nt (    
especial int]e/ 9 ! hi/ory ( ! art4  ,an
 example ( simple reticulat$ h& weav+ is
 %[n 9 ,fig4 #cjh4 ,x is ! "w ( ! m\nd  
build]s & is tak5 f an impression ^u an 
anci5t piece ( pott]y obta9$ 9          
,t5nessee4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjh4  

,incipi5t /age ( reticulat$ ornam5t4    
,fabric ( ! m\nd build]s4  ,fig4 #cji   
illu/rates a bit ( anci5t ,p]uvian "w   
execut$ on a frame or 9 a rude loom1 a  
*eck] patt]n be+ produc$ by arrang+ !   
w>p & wo( n[ close toge!r & n[ wide     
ap>t4  ,op5 "w ( ?is class is sometimes 
complet$ by aft] processes1 c]ta9 ?reads
 or filam5ts be+ drawn out or introduc$1
 by :i* means ! figures are emphasiz$ & 
v>i$4  ,9 ,fig4 #caj we h a second      
,p]uvian example 9 :i* ! wo( ?reads h   
be5 omitt$ = ! space ( an in*1 & across 
?is int]val ! loose w>p has be5 plait$ &
 drawn toge!r1 produc+ a lattice-l b&4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cji4 ,simple =m ( 
ornam5tal reticulation4 ,anci5t ,p]uvian
 "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #caj4        
,reticulat$ patt]n 9 cotton clo?4 ,"w ( 
! anci5t ,p]uvians4  ,9 a simil> way f\r
 o!r b&s ( n>r[ op5 "w are introduc$1   
two above & two bel[ ! wide b&4 ,^! are 
produc$ by leav+ ! w>p ?reads free = a  
%ort space & draw+ alt]nate pairs across
 ea* o!r & fix+ !m s by means ( a wo(   

?read1 z %[n 9 ! cut4  ,examples ( nett+
 9 :i* decorative features h be5 work$  
are f\nd among ! textile products ( _m  
,am]ican tribes & occur z well 9 sev]al 
gr\ps ( anci5t fabrics1 b 9 mo/ cases   
:]e designs ( importance or complexity  
are desir$ p>ts are introduc$ to        
facilitate ! "w4  ,sup]con/ructive      
features4--,^! features1 s important 9 !
 decoration ( fabrics1 are ! result (   
devices by :i* a con/ruction already    
capable ( fulfill+ ! duties impos$ by   
function has add$ to x p>ts int5d$ to   
enhance beauty & :i* may or may n be (  
advantage to ! fabric4 ,!y con/itute "o 
( ! mo/ widely us$ & effective res\rces 
( ! textile decorator1 & are add$ by    
sew+ or /it*+1 ins]t+1 draw+1 cutt+1    
apply+1 app5d+1 c4 ,!y add enorm\sly to 
! capacity = produc+ relievo effects &  
make x possible ev5 to r5d] natural =ms 
9 ! r\nd4 ,not)/&+ ?is fact--! mo/      
important section ( ?is class (         
features--embroid]y is treat$ to bett]  
advantage "u color ph5om5a1 z color is v

 g5]ally associat$ ) ! designs4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #caa4 ,op5 "w      
design embroid]$ ^u a net-l fabric4 ,f a
 grave at ,ancon1 ,p]u4  ,"o example (  
lace-l embroid]y may be giv5 9 ?is      
place4 ,x is probably among ! be/       
examples ( mono*rome embroid]y ,am]ica  
has produc$4 ,9 design & 9 me?od (      
realization x is id5tical ) ! ri*1      
color$ embroid]ies ( ! anci5t ,p]uvians1
 be+ work$ ^u a net f\ndation1 z %[n 9  
,fig4 #caa4 ,! broad b& ( figures       
employs bird =ms 9 connection ) runn+   
geometric designs1 & /ill m highly      
conv5tional bird =ms are se5 9 ! n>r[   
b&4  ,app5d$ ornam5ts are n am5able to !
 geometric laws ( fabrication to ! ext5t
 obs]v$ 9 o!r classes ( ornam5t4 ,!y    
are1 h[ev]1 atta*$ 9 ways consi/5t ) !  
textile sy/em1 & are c\nt$ & spac$ )    
great c>e1 produc+ designs ( a m or less
 pron\nc$ geometric "*4 ,! "w is a k9d (
 embroid]y1 ! p>ts employ$ be+ ( !      
nature ( p5dants4  ,^! include numb]less
 articles d]iv$ f nature & art4 ,x w    

suffice to pres5t a few examples already
 at h&4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cab4     
,basket ) p5d5t bucksk9 /r&s tipp$ )    
bits ( t94 ,apa*e ,indians--#a_/h4      
,fig4 #cab illu/rates a l>ge1 well made 
basket1 ! "w ( ! ,apa*e ,indians4 ,x    
s]ves to indicate ! me?od ( employ+     
tassels & clu/]$ p5dants1 :i* 9 ?is case
 consi/ ( bucksk9 /r+s tipp$ ) conical  
bits ( t94 ,! *eck] patt]n is 9 color4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cac4 ,basket )    
p5dants ( beads & bits ( %ell1 "w ( !   
nor?we/ coa/ ,indians4--#a_/d4  ,fig4   
#cac illu/rates ! use ( o!r v>ieties (  
p5dants4 ,a fea!r deck$ basket made by !
 nor?we/ coa/ ,indians is embelli%$ )   
p5d5t ornam5ts consi/+ ( /r+s ( beads   
tipp$ ) bits ( bright %ell4 ,!          
importance ( ?is class ( "w 9 high] =ms 
( textiles may be illu/rat$ by an       
example f ,p]u4 ,x is probable t        
,am]ican art has produc$ few examples ( 
tassel$ "w m wond]ful ?an t ( :i* a     
fragm5t is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cad4 ,x is a    
fr+$ mantle1 ?ree feet 9 l5g? & ne>ly ! 

same 9 dep?1 obta9$ f an anci5t tomb4 ,!
 body is made up ( sep>ately wov5 b&s1  
^u :i* disk-l & semilun> figures        
repres5t+ human faces are /it*$1 cov]+ !
 surface 9 horizontal r[s4 ,to ! c5t] ( 
^! rosette-l p>ts clu/]s ( tassels (    
v>y+ sizes are atta*$4 ,! fr+e1 :i* is  
tw5ty in*es deep1 is compos$ entirely ( 
long /r+s ( tassels1 ! l>g] tassels     
support+ clu/]s ( small] ones4 ,!re are 
upw>ds ( ?ree ?\s& tassels1 ! r\nd heads
 ( :i* are 9 _m cases wov5 9 colors1    
ridges1 & nodes to repres5t ! human     
features4 ,! g5]al color ( ! g>m5t1 :i* 
is ( f9e1 silky wool1 is a ri* crimson4 
,! illu/ration c convey only a h9t ( !  
complexity & beauty ( ! orig9al4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cad4 ,tassel      
ornam5tation f an anci5t ,p]uvian       
mantle4  ,we h n[ se5 h[ v>i$ & h[ /rik+
 are ! surface *>act]s ( fabrics z      
express$ by ! ?ird dim5sion1 by v>iation
 f a flat1 featureless surface1 & h[    
all1 ess5tial & ornam5tal1 are gov]n$ by
 ! laws ( geometric comb9ation4 ,we %all

 n[ see h[ ^! are relat$ to color       
ph5om5a4   ,,color ,,ph5om5a4  ,ord9>y  
features4--,9 describ+ ! con/ructive    
*>act]s ( fabrics & ! att5dant surface  
ph5om5a1 ,i call$ att5tion to ! fact t a
 great] "p ( ! design manife/$ is en=c$ 
& supplem5t$ by color1 :i* gives new    
mean+ to e feature4 ,color elem5ts are  
pres5t 9 ! art f its v inception1 & _m  
simple patt]ns appe> z accid5ts (       
textile aggregation long be=e ! weav] or
 ! possessor recognizes !m z pleas+ to !
 eye4 ,:51 f9ally1 !y are s recogniz$ & 
a desire = great] elaboration spr+s up1 
! textile con/ruction l5ds itself       
readily to ! new (fice & "u ! e/hetic   
=ces br+s ab\t wond]ful results )\t     
int]f]+ 9 ! lea/ ) ! te*nical p]fection 
( ! articles embelli%$4 ,b color is n   
conf9$ to ! m]e emphasiz+ ( figures     
already express$ 9 relief4 ,x is capable
 ( advanc+ alone into new fields1       
produc+ patt]ns & designs complex 9     
arrangem5t & v>i$ 9 hue1 & t1 too1 )\t  
alt]+ ! simple1 monoton\s succession (  

relievo *>act]s4  ,9 color1 z 9 reliev$ 
design1 ea* species ( con/ructive       
comb9ation gives rise to m or less      
di/9ct gr\ps ( decorative results1 :i*  
(t5 become ! di/+ui%+ *>act]i/ics ( ! "w
 ( diff]5t peoples & ! prog5itors ( long
 l9es ( di/9ctions 9 national decorative
 conceptions4  ,9 addition to ?is       
app>5tly limitless capacity =           
expression1 lov]s ( textile illum9ation 
h ! :ole s]ies ( extraord9>y res\rces   
furni%$ by exp$i5ts n ess5tial to ord9>y
 con/ruction1 ! "* & scope ( :i* h be5  
dwelt ^u to "s ext5t 9 ! prec$+ section4
  ,i h already spok5 ( color 9 a g5]al  
way1 z to its necess>y pres5ce 9 art1   
its artificial application to fabrics & 
fabric mat]ials1 its symbolic *>act]s1 &
 its importance to e/hetic progress4 ,my
 object 9 ?is section is to indicate !  
"p x takes 9 textile design1 its me?ods 
( expression1 ! processes by :i* x      
advances 9 elaboration1 & ! "p x takes 9
 all geometric decoration4  ,x w be     
necess>y1 9 ! fir/ place1 to exam9e     

briefly ! normal t5d5cies ( color       
comb9ation :ile /ill "u ! direct        
dom9ation ( con/ructive elaboration4 ,9 
! way ( illu/ration1 let u take fir/ a  
s]ies ( filam5ts1 say 9 ! natural color 
( ! mat]ial1 & pass ?r\gh !m 9 ! simple/
 int]lac$ /yle a second s]ies hav+ a    
di/9ct color4 ,a v simple geometric     
patt]n is produc$1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #cae4  
,x is a sort ( *eck]1 an emphasiz$      
pres5tation ( ! relievo patt]n %[n 9    
,fig4 #bia1 ! figures runn+             
horizontally1 v]tically1 & diagonally4  
,_h ^! filam5ts be5 accid5tally         
associat$ 9 con/ruction1 ! results might
 h be5 ! same1 b x is unnecess>y to     
indicate 9 detail ! possibilities (     
adv5titi\s color comb9ations4 ,s f> z !y
 exhibit sy/em at all x is id5tical ) ! 
relievo elaboration4  ,illu/ration3     
,,fig4 #cae4 ,patt]n produc$ by int]lac+
 /r&s ( diff]5t colors4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #caf4 ,patt]n produc$ by modify+ 
! alt]nation ( fillets4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #cag4 ,isolat$ figures produc$ by

 modify+ ! ord] ( int]section4  ,assum+ 
t ! idea ( develop+ ^! figures into     
some?+ m elaborate & /rik+ is already   
conceiv$1 let u /udy ! processes &      
t5d5cies ( gr[?4 ,a v slight degree (   
+5uity w enable ! workman to v>y !      
relation ( ! p>ts1 produc+ a succession 
( results su*1 p]haps1 z indicat$ 9     
,fig4 #caf4 ,9 ?is example we h r[s (   
isolat$ squ>es 9 :ite :i* may be turn$  
hi!r & ?i!r at pleasure1 )9 c]ta9       
angles1 b !y result 9 no?+ m ?an        
monoton\s successions ( squ>es4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cah4 ,patt]n      
produc$ by simple alt]nations ( light & 
d>k fillets4 ,basketry ( ! ,indians (   
,briti% ,guiana4  ,additional facility (
 expression is obta9$ by employ+ d>k    
/r&s 9 ! v]tical s]ies also1 & l>ge1    
isolat$ areas ( solid color may be      
produc$ by *ang+ ! ord] ( int]section1  
c]ta9 ( ! fillets be+ c>ri$ ov] two or m
 ( ! oppos+ s]ies & 9 contigu\s spaces  
at "o /ep1 z se5 9 ,fig4 #cag4 ,) ^!    
elem5t>y res\rces ! weav] has v         

consid]able p[]s ( expression1 z w be   
se5 9 ,fig4 #cah1 :i* is tak5 f a basket
 made by ,s\? ,am]ican ,indians1 & 9    
,fig4 #cda1 :]e human figures are       
del9eat$4 ,! patt]ns 9 su* cases are all
 rigidly geometric & exhibit /epp$      
outl9es ( a pron\nc$ k9d4 ,) impact+ &  
increas$ ref9em5t ( fillets ! /epp$ "*  
is 9 a consid]able measure lo/ sight ( &
 reali/ic1 graphic repres5tation is to a
 great] ext5t )9 ! workman's rea*4 ,x is
 probable1 h[ev]1 t ! idea ( weav+      
complex ideographic *>act]s w\ld n occur
 to ! primitive m9d at a v e>ly date1 & 
a long p]iod ( progress w\ld elapse be=e
 del9eative subjects w\ld be attempt$4  
,i d n ne$ to foll[ ?is /yle (          
comb9ation into ! m ref9$ k9ds ( "w &   
into loom products1 b may add t ?r\gh   
all1 until p]v]t$ by ult]ior influ5ces1 
! *>act]i/ic geometricity & monoton\s   
repetition are allp]vad+4         99    
99       99       99       99  ,= !     
purpose ( look+ /ill m closely into !   
t5d5cies ( normal textile decorative    

developm5t ,i %all pres5t a s]ies (     
,indian baskets1 *oos+ ma9ly f ! closely
 wov5 or impact$ v>ieties because !y are
 s well repres5t$ 9 our collections & at
 ! same "t are s v g5]ally embelli%$ )  
designs 9 color2 besides1 !y are        
probably among ! mo/ simple & primitive 
textile products kn[n4 ,i h already %[n 
t sev]al types ( comb9ation :5 closely  
impact$ produce v simil> surface *>act]s
 & enc\rage ! same g5]al /yle (         
decoration4 ,9 ne>ly all1 ! color       
features are conf9$ to "o s]ies (       
fillets--^? ( ! wo(--! o!r1 ! w>p1 be+  
completely hidd5 f view4 ,9 ! prec$+    
s]ies ! w>p & wo( 7 almo/ equally       
conc]n$ 9 ! expression ( design4 ,"h b  
"o is us$1 & 9 consequ5ce !re is mu*    
fre$om ( expression1 z ! arti/ c>ries ! 
color$ filam5ts back & =? or ins]ts new 
ones at w4 ,/ill x w be se5 t 9 do+ ?is 
he is by no means free2 he mu/ foll[ !  
/raight & n>r[ pa?way laid d[n by ! w>p 
& wo(1 &1 d :at he may1 he arrives at   
purely geometric results4  ,illu/ration3

 ,,fig4 #cai4 ,base ( coil$ basket %[+ !
 me?od ( build+ by dual coil+4 ,! base  
or w>p coil is compos$ ( untwi/$ fib] & 
is =m$ by add+ to ! free end z ! coil+  
goes on4 ,! wo( or b9d+ filam5t1 z x is 
coil$1 is caught into ! upp] surface ( !
 prec$+ turn--#a_/h4  ,illu/ration3     
,,fig4 #cbj4 ,coil$ basket ) simple     
geometric ornam5t4 ,"w ( ! nor?we/ coa/ 
,indians--#a_/h4  ,i w n[ pres5t !      
examples1 :i* = ! sake ( uni=mity are 9 
all cases ( ! coil$ w>e4 ,if a basket is
 made ) no o!r idea ?an t ( use !       
surface is apt to be pretty uni=m 9     
color1 ! natural color ( ! wo( fillets4 
,if decoration is desir$ a color$ fillet
 is introduc$1 :i*1 = ! "t1 takes !     
place & does ! duty ( ! ord9>y /r&4     
,fig4 #cai s]ves to %[ ! con/ruction &  
surface appe>ance ( ! base ( a coil made
 vessel /ill q free f any color         
decoration4 ,n[1 if x is desir$ to beg9 
a design1 ! pla9 wrapp+ ?read is dropp$ 
& a color$ fillet is ins]t$ & ! coil+   
cont9ues4 ,c>ri$ once ar\nd ! vessel we 

h an encircl+ l9e ( d>k color           
correspond+ to ! l[] l9e ( ! ornam5t se5
 9 ,fig4 #cbj4 ,if ! arti/ is cont5t ) a
 s+le l9e ( color he sets ! end ( ! d>k 
?read & takes up ! light color$ "o      
previ\sly dropp$ & cont9ues ! coil+4 ,if
 fur!r elaboration is desir$ x is easily
 accompli%$4 ,9 ! example giv5 ! workman
 has tak5 up ! d>k fillet aga9 & c>ri$ x
 a few times ar\nd ! next turn ( ! w>p  
coil2 !n x has be5 dropp$ & ! :ite ?read
 tak5 up1 & aga91 9 turn1 ano!r d>k     
?read has be5 introduc$ & coil$ = a few 
turns1 & s on until f\r encircl+ r[s (  
d>k1 alt]nat+ rectangles h be5 produc$4 
,desir+ to introduce a me&]$ design he  
has tak5 ! upp] s]ies ( rectangles z    
bases & add+ color$ filam5ts at ! prop] 
"t has c>ri$ oblique l9es1 "o to ! "r & 
! o!r to ! left1 across ! six succe$+   
ridges ( ! w>p coil4 ,! pairs ( /epp$   
l9es meet+ above 7 jo9$ 9 rectangles l  
^? bel[1 & ! decoration 0 clos$ by a    
bord] l9e at ! top4 ,! vessel 0 !n      
complet$ 9 ! light color$ mat]ial4 ,9   

?is ornam5t all =ms are b\nd$ by two    
classes ( l9es1 v]tical & horizontal    
7or1 view$ f above or bel[1 radial &    
encircl+71 ! l9es ( ! w>p & ! wo(4      
,oblique b&s ( color are made up ( s]ies
 ( rectangles1 giv+ /epp$ outl9es4      
,al?\gh ^! figures are purely geometric1
 x is n impossible t 9 _! position &    
gr\p+ !y pres]ve a trace ( "s imitative 
conception modifi$ to ?is %ape by ! =ces
 ( ! art4 ,!y s]ve q z well1 h[ev]1 to  
illu/rate simple me*anical elaboration z
 if entirely free f suspicion (         
associat$ ideas4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4  
#cba4 ,coil$ basket ) encircl+ b&s (    
ornam5t 9 :ite1 r$1 & black1 ^u a       
yell[i% gr\nd4 ,obta9$ f ! ,indians ( ! 
,tule ,riv]1 ,cali=nia--#a_/h4  ,9 ,fig4
 #cba ,i pres5t a sup]b piece ( "w      
execut$ by ! ,indians ( ! ,tule ,riv]1  
,cali=nia4 ,x is wov5 9 ! closely       
impact$1 coil$ /yle4 ,! ornam5t is      
arrang$ 9 horizontal zones & consi/s ( a
 s]ies ( diamond %ap$ figures 9 :ite )  
r$ c5t]s & black frames set side by     

side4 ,! processes ( sub/itution :]e    
*anges ( color are requir$ are ! same z 
9 ! prec$+ case & ! =ms ( figures & !   
disposition ( designs are ! same1 be+   
gov]n$ by ! same =ces4  ,illu/ration3   
,,fig4 #cbb4 ,coil$ basket ) ornam5t    
arrang$ 9 zigzag rays4 ,obta9$ f ! ,pima
 ,indians ( ,arizona--#a_/h4  ,ano!r    
*oice piece1 f ! ,pima ,indians (       
,arizona1 is giv5 9 ,fig4 #cbb4 ,! l9es 
( ! ornam5t adh]e exclusively to !      
directions impos$ by ! w>p & ! wo(1 !   
/ripes ( black color asc5d+ ) ! turns ( 
! fillet = a %ort di/ance1 !n = a "t    
foll[+ ! horizontal ridges1 & aga9      
asc5d+1 ! complete result be+ a s]ies ( 
zigzag rays set v close toge!r4 ,^! rays
 take an oblique turn to ! left1 & ! d>k
 figures at ! angles1 f ! necessities ( 
con/ruction1 =m r[s at "r angles to ^!4 
,a few supplem5t>y rays are add$ t[>d ! 
m>g9 to fill out ! wid5+ spaces4 ,ano!r 
/rik+ example ( ! dom9ation ( te*nique  
ov] design is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cbc4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbc4 ,coil$ basket

 ) two b&s ( me&]$ ornam5t4 ,obta9$ f ! 
,pima ,indians ( ,arizona--#a_/d4  ,two 
/rongly m>k$1 fret-l me&]s encircle !   
vessel1 ! elem5ts ( :i* are rul$        
exclusively by ! w>p & wo(1 by ! radiate
 & ! conc5tric l9es ( con/ruction4 ,?is 
is ! "w ( ! ,pima ,indians ( ,arizona4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbd4 ,coil$ basket
 ) geometric ornam5t compos$ ( triangul>
 figures4 ,obta9$ f ! ,mc,cloud ,riv]   
,indians1 ,cali=nia--#a_/h4  ,i %all    
close ! s]ies ) a v h&some example (    
,indian basketry & ( basketry           
ornam5tation 7,fig4 #cbd74 ,! conical   
%ape is highly pleas+ & ! design is     
?or\ghly satisfactory &1 l all ! o!rs1  
is appli$ 9 a way indicative ( a ref9$  
s5se ( ! decorative requirem5ts ( !     
ut5sil4 ,! design is :olly geometric1 &1
 al?\gh v>i$ 9 appe>ance1 is compos$    
almo/ exclusively ( d>k triangul>       
figures ^u a light gr\nd4 ,! g5]al gr\p+
 is 9 ?ree horizontal or encircl+ b&s   
agree+ ) or foll[+ ! f\ndation coil4    
,details are gov]n$ by ! horizontal & ! 

oblique /ructure l9es4 ,! v]tical       
con/ruction l9es h no direct "p 9 !     
con=mation ( ! design except+ 9 s f> z  
!y impose a /epp$ "* ^u all oblique     
outl9es4  ,^! /udies c\ld be c>ri$ ?r\gh
 all ! types ( primitive textile        
comb9ation1 b su* a "w seems unnecess>y1
 = 9 all cases ! elaboration 9 design1  
reliev$ & color$1 is along simil> l9es1 
is gov]n$ by ! same class ( =ces1 &     
rea*es closely correspond+ results4     
99       99       99       99       99  
,we h obs]v$ ?r\gh\t ! s]ies ( examples 
pres5t$ a decid$ t5d5cy t[>d b&$ or     
zonal arrangem5t ( ! ornam5tation4 ,n[  
ea* ( ^! b&s is made up ( a numb] (     
units1 uni=m 9 %ape & 9 size & jo9$ or  
l9k$ toge!r 9 v>i\s suitable & consi/5t 
ways4 ,9 contemplat+ !m we are l$ to    
inquire into ! nature ( ! =ces conc]n$ 9
 ! accompli%m5t ( su* results4 ,! "q    
arises z to exactly h[ mu* ( ! segregat+
 & aggregat+ =ces or t5d5cies belongs to
 ! te*nique ( ! art & h[ mu* to ! direct
 e/hetic sup]vision ( ! human ag5t1     

que/ions z to ideographic influ5ce be+ =
 ! pres5t omitt$4 ,?is is a difficult   
problem to deal )1 & ,i %all n attempt m
 "h ?an to po9t out ! app>5t tea*+s ( ! 
examples /udi$4  ,! desires ( ! m9d     
con/itute ! motive p[]1 ! =ce t gives   
rise to all progress 9 art2 !           
appreciation ( beauty & ! desire to     
increase x are ! cause ( all progress 9 
purely decorative elaboration4 ,x       
appe>s1 h[ev]1 t !re is 9 ! m9d no      
preconceiv$ idea ( :at t elaboration    
%\ld be4 ,! m9d is a gr[+ ?+ & is l$    
=w>d along ! pa?ways laid out by        
environm5t4 ,seek+ 9 art gratification (
 an e/hetic k9d x foll[s ! lead (       
te*nique along ! *annels op5$ by su* ( !
 useful arts z (f] sugge/ions (         
embelli%m5t4 ,! results rea*$ v>y ) !   
arts & are important 9 proportion to !  
facilities furni%$ by ! arts4 ,z ,i h   
already amply %[n1 ! textile art        
possesses va/ advantages ov] all o!r    
arts 9 ?is respect1 z x is fir/ 9 !     
field1 ( wide/ application1 full (      

sugge/ions ( embelli%m5t1 & inexorably  
fix$ 9 its me?ods ( expression4 ,! m9d 9
 its primitive1 mobile condition is z   
clay 9 ! grasp ( te*nique4  ,a close    
analysis ( ! =ces & ! influ5ces inh]5t 9
 ! art w be in/ructive4 ,= ! sake (     
simplicity ,i exclude f consid]ation all
 b purely me*anical or non-ideographic  
elem5ts4 ,x w be obs]v$ t ord]1         
uni=mity1 symmetry1 are among ! fir/    
lessons ( ! textile art4 ,f ! v beg9n+ !
 workman f9ds x necess>y to direct 8    
att5tion to ^! consid]ations 9 !        
prep>ation ( 8 mat]ial z well z 9 !     
build+ ( 8 ut5sils4 ,if p>ts employ$ 9  
con/ruction are multiple !y mu/ be      
uni=m1 & to rea* def9ite results        
7presuppos+ always a dem& = su*         
results71 ei!r 9 =m or ornam5t1 !re mu/ 
be a con/ant c\nt+ ( numb]s & adju/+ to 
spaces4 ,! mo/ fundam5tal & con/ant     
elem5ts embodi$ 9 textile art &         
available = ! expression ( embelli%m5t  
are ! m9ute /eps ( ! int]sections or    
b9d+s2 ! mo/ necess>y & con/ant         

comb9ation ( ^! elem5ts is 9 cont9u\s   
l9es or 9 r[s ( isolat$ figures2 ! mo/  
necess>y & con/ant directions = ^!      
comb9ations are ) ! web & ! wo(1 or ) _!
 complem5t>ies1 ! diagonals4 ,if l>ge   
areas are cov]$ c]ta9 sep>ation or      
aggregation ( ! elem5ts into l>g] units 
is call$ =1 z o!rwise absolute sam5ess  
w\ld result4 ,su* sep>ation or          
aggregation con=ms to ! con/ruction l9es
 ( ! fabric1 z any o!r arrangem5t w\ld  
be unnatural & difficult ( accompli%m5t4
 ,:5 ! elem5ts or units comb9e 9        
cont9u\s zones1 b&s1 or rays !y are     
plac$ side by side 9 simple             
juxtaposition or are unit$ 9 v>i\s ways1
 always foll[+ ! guide l9es (           
con/ruction ?r\gh simple & complex      
convolutions4 ,:atev] is done is at !   
sugge/ion ( te*nique2 :atev] is done    
takes a =m & arrangem5t impos$ by       
te*nique4 ,results are l 9 l te*niques &
 are unlike 9 unlike te*niques2 !y !re=e
 v>y ) ! art & ) its v>iations 9 "t &   
"*4  ,all ^? ag5cies p]ta9+ to man t    

might be suppos$ important 9 ?is        
connection--! muscles ( ! h& & ( ! eye1 
! cell /ructure ( ! bra91 toge!r ) all  
preconceiv$ ideas ( ! beautiful--are all
 b impot5t 9 ! pres5ce ( te*nique1 &1 s 
f> z =ms ( expression g1 submit         
completely to its dictates4 ,ideas ( !  
beautiful 9 l9e> geometric =ms are      
actually =m$ by te*nique1 & ta/e 9      
select+ z ! mo/ beautiful c]ta9 ornam5ts
 produc$ 9 art is b *oos+ betwe5        
products t 9 _! evolution gave x its "* 
& p[]s1 precisely z ! animal selects its
 favorite foods f among ! products t    
?r\gh\t its hi/ory con/itute its        
su/5ance & %ape its appetites4          
99       99       99       99       99  
,n[1 z primitive peoples advance f      
savag]y to b>b>ism !re comes a "t 9 !   
hi/ory ( all k9ds ( textile products at 
:i* ! natural te*nical progress (       
decorative elaboration is int]f]$ ) by  
=ces f )\t ! art4 ,?is occurs :5 ideas1 
symbolic or o!rwise1 come to be         
associat$ ) ! purely geometric figures1 

t5d+ to arre/ or modify _! developm5t1  
or1 aga91 x occurs :5 ! arti/ seeks to  
sub/itute my?ologic subjects = !        
geometric units4 ,?is p]iod _c be always
 well def9$1 z ! fir/ /eps 9 ?is        
direction are s ?or\ghly subord9at$ to !
 textile =ces4 ,betwe5 :at may be reg>d$
 z purely te*nical1 geometric ornam5t & 
ornam5t recognizably del9eative1 we f9d 
9 ea* gr\p ( advanc$ textile products a 
s]ies ( =ms ( mix$ or unc]ta9 p$igree4  
,^! mu/ receive slight att5tion "h4     
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbe4 ,coil$ basket
 ornam5t$ ) devices probably v highly   
conv5tionaliz$ my?ological subjects4    
,obta9$ f ! ,apa*e--#a_/h4  ,fig4 #cbe  
repres5ts a l>ge & h&some basket obta9$ 
f ! ,apa*e4 ,x w be se5 t ! outl9e ( !  
figures compris+ ! pr9cipal zone (      
ornam5t dep>ts some:at f ! f\r rul+     
directions ( ! textile comb9ation4 ,?is 
0 accompli%$ by increas+ ! wid? ( ! /eps
 9 ! outl9e z ! d>k rays progress$1     
result+ 9 curv$ outl9es ( ecc5tric "*4  
,?is ecc5tricity1 c\pl$ ) ! v unusual "*

 ( ! details at ! out] extremities ( !  
figures1 leads to ! surmise t ea* "p ( !
 design is a conv5tional repres5tation (
 "s life =m1 a bird1 an insect1 or      
p]haps a man4  ,by ! free introduction (
 su* elem5ts textile ornam5t loses its  
pri/9e geometric purity & becomes 9 a   
measure degrad$4 ,9 ! m advanc$ /ages ( 
,pueblo art ! ornam5t ( ne>ly all !     
textiles is p]vad$ by ideographic       
*>act]s1 g5]ally rude sugge/ions ( life 
=ms1 borr[$1 p]haps1 f my?ologic art4   
,?is is true ( mu* ( ! coil$ basketry ( 
! ,moki ,indians4 ,true1 _m examples    
occur 9 :i* ! anci5t or indig5\s        
geometric /yle is pres]v$1 b ! majority 
appe> to be m or less modifi$4 ,9 _m    
cases no?+ c be le>n$ f a /udy ( !      
designs !mselves1 z ! p>ticul> /yle (   
con/ruction is n adapt$ to reali/ic     
expression1 &1 at be/1 resemblances to  
natural =ms are v remote4 ,two examples 
are giv5 9 ,figs4 #cbf & #cbg4 ,i %all  
expect1 h[ev]1 :5 ! art ( ^! peoples is 
bett] kn[n1 to le>n to :at p>ticul>     

my?ic concept ^! mix$ or impure         
geometric devices ref]4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #cbf4 ,coil$ tray ) geometric    
devices probably modifi$ by ideographic 
association4 ,moki "w--#a_/d4  ,! same  
is true ( o!r v>ieties ( ,pueblo        
basketry1 notably ! common decorat$     
wick]w>e1 two specim5s ( :i* are giv5 9 
,figs4 #cbh & #cbi4 ,?is w>e is ( !     
int]lac$ /yle1 ) radially arrang$ web   
filam5ts4 ,its geometric *>act]s are    
easily di/+ui%$ f ^? ( ! coil$ w>e4 ,_m 
examples exhibit purely conv5tional     
elaboration1 ! figures be+ arrang$ 9    
rays1 zones1 *eck]s1 & ! l4 ,x is to be 
expect$1 h[ev]1 t ! normal ornam5t ( ?is
 class ( products %\ld be greatly       
int]f]$ ) ?r\gh attempts to introduce   
extrane\s elem5ts1 = ! peoples h advanc$
 to a /age ( culture at :i* x is usual  
to attempt ! introduction ( my?ologic   
repres5tations into all art4 ,fur!r     
consid]ation ( ?is subject w be necess>y
 9 ! next section ( ?is pap]4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbg4 ,coil$ tray )

 geometric devices1 probably modifi$ by 
ideographic association4 ,moki          
"w--#a_/d4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbh4  
,tray ( int]lac$ /yle ( weav+1 %[+      
geometric ornam5t1 probably modifi$ by  
ideographic association4 ,moki          
"w--#a_/d4  ,! processes ( pure         
geometric elaboration ) :i* ?is section 
is ma9ly conc]n$ c be /udi$ to be/      
advantage 9 m primitive =ms ( art4      
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbi4 ,tray (      
int]lac$ /yle ( weav+1 %[+ geometric    
ornam5t1 probably modifi$ by ideographic
 association4 ,moki "w--#a_/d4          
,non-ess5tial con/ructive               
features4--,n[1 all ! v>i$ effects (    
color & design describ$ 9 ! prec$+      
p>agraphs are obta9$ )\t s]i\sly modify+
 ! simple necess>y con/ruction1 )\t     
resort+ to ! multiple extraord9>y       
devices )9 easy rea*4 ,! developm5t &   
utilization ( ! latt] class ( res\rces  
mu/ n[ receive att5tion4 ,9 ! prec$+    
examples1 :5 x 0 desir$ to beg9 a figure
 9 color ! normal gr\nd filam5t 0 dropp$

 out & a color$ "o set into its place & 
made to fill its (fice :ile x rema9$2 b 
we f9d t 9 _m classes ( "w ! color$     
elem5ts 7 add$ to ! ess5tial p>ts1 n    
sub/itut$ = !m1 al?\gh !y are usually ( 
use 9 p]fect+ ! fabric by add+ to       
s]viceability z well z to beauty4 ,?is  
is illu/rat$1 = example1 by ! d\bl+ ( "o
 s]ies or ( bo? w>p & wo(1 by !         
introduction ( pile1 by wrapp+ filam5ts 
) /r&s ( o!r colors1 or by twi/+ 9      
fea!rs4 ,savage nations 9 all p>ts ( !  
_w are acqua9t$ ) devices ( ?is class & 
employ !m ) great fre$om4 ,! effects    
produc$ (t5 correspond closely to       
ne$lework1 & ! mat]ials employ$ are (t5 
id5tical 9 bo? v>ieties ( execution4  ,!
 foll[+ examples w s]ve to illu/rate my 
mean+4 ,! effect se5 9 ,fig4 #ccj is    
obs]v$ 9 a small h& wallet obta9$ 9     
,mexico4 ,! fillets employ$ appe> to be 
wide1 flatt5$ /raws ( v>i$ colors4 ,9   
ord] to avoid ! monotony ( a pla9 *eck] 
c]ta9 ( ! light fillets are wrapp$ ) ?9 
fillets ( d>k t9t 9 su* a way t :5 wov5 

! d>k color appe>s 9 small squ>es plac$ 
diagonally ) ! fundam5tal *eck]s4       
,additional effects are produc$ by cov]+
 c]ta9 portions ( ! filam5ts ) /raws (  
di/9ct color1 all be+ wov5 9 ) ! fabric4
 ,by o!r devices c]ta9 p>ts ( ! fillets 
are made to /& out f ! surface 9 %>p    
po9ts & 9 ridges1 =m+ geometric figures1
 ei!r normal or add$ elem5ts be+        
employ$4 ,ano!r device is %[n 9 ,fig4   
#cca4 ,"h a patt]n is secur$ by c>ry+   
d>k fillets back & =? ov] ! light color$
 fabric1 cat*+ !m d[n at regul> int]vals
 dur+ ! process ( weav+4 ,aga91 fea!rs &
 o!r embelli%+ m$ia are wov5 9 ) ! wo(4 
,two int]e/+ baskets procur$ f !        
,indians ( ! nor?we/ coa/ are %[n 9     
,figs4 #ccb & #ccc4 ,fea!rs ( brilliant 
hues are fix$ to & wov5 9 ) c]ta9 ( !   
wo( /r&s1 :i* are treat$1 9 ! execution 
( patt]ns1 j z are ord9>y color$ ?reads1
 c>e be+ tak5 n to de/roy ! beauty ( !  
fea!rs 9 ! process4 ,! ri*ly color$     
fea!rs ly+ smoo?ly 9 "o direction are   
made to repres5t v>i\s figures          

necess>ily geometric4 ,?is simple "w is 
mu* surpass$1 h[ev]1 by ! m>vel\s fea!r 
ornam5tation ( ! ,mexicans & ,p]uvians1 
( :i* gl[+ acc\nts are giv5 by hi/orians
 & ( :i* a few meag] traces are f\nd 9  
tombs4 ,mu* ( ! fea!r "w ( all nations  
is ( ! nature ( embroid]y & w receive   
att5tion fur!r on4 ,a v clev] device    
practic$ by ! nor?we/ coa/ tribes       
consi/s 9 ! use ( two wo( /r&s (        
contra/+ colors1 "o or ! o!r be+ made to
 appe> on ! surface1 z ! patt]n dem&s4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccj4 ,ornam5t     
produc$ by wrapp+ c]ta9 light fillets ) 
d>k] ones be=e weav+4 ,mexican "w4      
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cca4 ,ornam5tal   
effect secur$ by weav+ 9 s]ies ( d>k    
fillets1 =m+ a sup]ficial device4 ,"w ( 
! ,klama? ,indians4  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #ccb4 ,baskets ornam5t$ ) fea!r  
"w4 ,nor?we/ coa/ tribes--#a_/d4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccc4 ,baskets     
ornam5t$ ) fea!r "w4 ,nor?we/ coa/      
tribes--#a_/d4  ,an example f a high]   
grade ( art w be ( value 9 ?is          

connection4 ,! anci5t ,p]uvians resort$ 
to _m clev] devices = purposes (        
enri*m5t4 ,an illu/ration ( ! use (     
extra-con/ructional means to secure     
desir$ ends are giv5 9 ,figs4 #ccd &    
#cce4 ,?reads con/itut+ a supplem5tal   
w>p & wo( are c>ri$ across ! "u side ( a
 common piece ( fabric1 t !y may be     
br\ght up & wov5 9 "h & !re to produce  
figures ( contra/+ color ^u ! "r side4  
,fig4 #ccd %[s ! "r side ( ! clo?1 ) !  
second>y s]ies appe>+ 9 ! bord] & c5tral
 figure only4 ,fig4 #cce illu/rates !   
opposite side & %[s ! loose hang+1 unus$
 portions ( ! auxili>y s]ies4 ,9 su* "w1
 :5 ! figures are num]\s & occupy a l>ge
 "p ( ! surface1 ! fabric is really a   
d\ble "o1 hav+ a dual w>p & wo(4        
,examples c\ld be multipli$ indef9itely1
 b x w readily be se5 f :at has be5     
pres5t$ t ! results ( ^! extraord9>y    
means _c diff] greatly f ^? legitimately
 produc$ by ! fundam5tal filam5ts alone4
  ,illu/ration ,,fig4 #ccd4 ,piece (    
cotton clo? %[+ ! use ( a supplem5t>y   

web & wo(4 ,anci5t ,p]u4  ,illu/ration  
,,fig4 #cce4 ,piece ( cotton clo? %[+ ! 
use ( a supplem5t>y web & wo(4 ,anci5t  
,p]u4  ,sup]con/ructive features4--,9   
review+ ! sup]con/ructive decorative    
features 9 ! prec$+ section ,i classifi$
 !m some:at closely by me?od ( execution
 or application to ! fabric1 z /it*$1   
ins]t$1 drawn1 cut1 appli$1 & app5d$4 ,x
 w be se5 t1 al?\gh ^! devices are to a 
great ext5t ( ! nature ( ne$lework1 all 
_c be class$ "u ?is head4  ,be=e ne$les 
came into use ! decorative features 7   
ins]t$ & atta*$ 9 a v>iety ( ways4 ,9   
op5 "w no?+ 0 ne$$ b ! end ( ! fillet or
 "p ins]t$2 aga91 9 close "w1 p]=ations 
7 made z 9 lea!r "w1 & ! ?reads 7 ins]t$
 z are ! wax$ ends ( ! %oemak]4  ,!     
importance ( ?is class ( decorative     
devices to primitive peoples w be app>5t
 if we b call to m9d ! "w ( our own     
,indian tribes4 ,:at a va/ deal (       
att5tion is paid to ^? classes (        
embroid]ies 9 :i* beads1 fea!rs1 quills1
 %ells1 se$s1 tee?1 c41 are employ$1 &  

to ! multitude ( novel applications (   
tassels1 fr+es1 & t9kl+ p5dants4 ,! ta/e
 = ^! ?+s is univ]sal & _! relation to !
 developm5t ( e/hetic ideas is d\btless 
v intimate4  ,ne$lework arose 9 ! e>lie/
 /ages ( art & at fir/ 0 employ$ 9 jo9+ 
p>ts1 su* z leaves1 sk9s1 & tissues1 =  
v>i\s useful purposes1 & aft]w>ds 9     
atta*+ ornam5ts4 ,9 "t ! atta*+ m$ia1 z 
expos$ 9 /it*es1 loops1 knots1 & ! l1   
be+ ( bright colors1 7 !mselves utiliz$ 
z embelli%m5t1 & m>g9s & ap]tures 7     
beautifi$ by v>i\s b9d+s & bord]s1 &    
f9ally patt]ns 7 work$ 9 contra/+ colors
 ^u ! surfaces ( ! clo?s & o!r mat]ials 
( l nature or use4  ,no o!r art s       
con/antly & decid$ly sugge/$ embelli%m5t
 & call$ = ! ex]cise ( ta/e4 ,x 0 !     
natural habitat = decoration4 ,x 0 !    
field 9 :i* te*nique & ta/e 7 mo/       
frequ5tly call$ ^u to "w h& 9 h&4  ,) ! 
gr[? ( culture ! art 0 exp&$ & p]fect$1 
its wond]ful capacity = expression lead+
 f m]e b9d+s to pret5ti\s bord]s1 to    
patt]ns1 to ! introduction ( ideographs1

 to ! repres5tation ( symbols &         
my?ologic subjects1 & f ^! to !         
del9eation ( nature1 ! pres5tation (    
hi/orical & purely pictorial sc5es4  ,& 
n[ a few words 9 reg>d to ! "* ( ! "w & 
its be>+ ^u ! geometric sy/em (         
decoration4 ,z purely con/ructive       
ornam5tation has already be5 pres5t$1 ,i
 w fir/ take up t class (               
sup]con/ructive "w mo/ ne>ly relat$ to  
x4 ,9 "s v>ieties ( basketry c]ta9 b9d+s
 ( ! w>p & wo( are actually left        
imp]fect1 ) ! idea ( complet+ !         
con/ruction by subsequ5t processes1 !   
int]sections be+ gone ov] /it* by /it* &
 la%$ toge!r1 ! embroid]y ?reads pass+ 9
 regul> ord] ?r\gh ! op5+s ( ! me%4 ,?is
 process is extremely conv5i5t to !     
decorator1 z *anges f "o color to ano!r 
are made )\t int]f]+ ) con/ruction1 & ! 
result is ( a closely simil> "* to t    
rea*$ by work+ ! colors 9 ) w>p & wo(4  
,9 a v close fabric ?is me?od _c be     
employ$1 b l results are rea*$ by pass+ 
! add$ filam5ts b5ea? ! protrud+ p>ts ( 

! b9d+s &1 /it* by /it*1 cov]+ up ! pla9
 fabric1 work+ bright patt]ns4 ,fig4    
#ccf is int5d$ to %[ h[ ?is is done4 ,! 
f\ndation is ( tw9$ "w & ! decorat+     
fillets are pass$ "u by lift+1 ) or )\t 
a ne$le4 ,?is process is ext5sively     
practic$ by our we/ coa/ tribes1 & !    
results are extremely pleas+4 ,!        
mat]ials mo/ us$ are quills & bright    
color$ /raws1 ! f\ndation fabric be+ (  
b>k or ( ru%es4 ,! results 9 su* "w are 
g5]ally geometric1 9 a way correspond+ m
 or less closely ) ! gr\nd "w           
comb9ation4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccf4 
,grass embroid]y ^u ! surface ( closely 
impact$1 tw9$ basketry4 ,"w ( ! nor?we/ 
coa/ ,indians4  ,a l>ge class (         
embroid]ies are appli$ by l processes1 b
 )\t ref]5ce to ! con/ruction ( !       
f\ndation fabric1 z !y are also appli$  
to felt & lea!r4 ,aga91 artificially    
prep>$ p]=ations are us$1 ?r\gh :i* !   
fillets are pass$4 ,! results are mu*   
less uni=mly geometric ?an :]e ! fabric 
is foll[$2 yet ! m]e add+ ( ! figures1  

/it* by /it* or "p by "p1 is suffici5t  
to imp>t a l>ge %>e ( geometricity1 z   
may be se5 9 ! bucksk9 bead "w & 9 !    
d5talium & quill "w ( ! ,indians4       
,fea!r embroid]y 0 c>ri$ to a high      
degree ( p]fection by our anci5t        
aborig9es1 & ! results 7 p]haps ! mo/   
brilliant ( all ^! wond]ful decorations4
 ,i h already %[n h[ fea!rs are wov5 9 )
 ! w>p & wo(1 & may n[ give a s+le      
illu/ration ( ! application ( fea!r "w  
to ! surfaces ( fabrics4 ,among !       
beautiful articles recov]$ f ! tombs (  
,ancon1 ,p]u1 are "s mu* decay$ specim5s
 ( fea!r "w4 ,9 our example delicate    
fea!rs ( r$1 blue1 & yell[ hues are     
appli$ to ! surface ( a co>se cotton    
fabric by fir/ c>efully ty+ !m toge!r 9 
r[s at regul> di/ances & aft]w>ds /it*+ 
!m d[n1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ccg4  ,! same    
me?od is practic$ by mod]n peoples 9 _m 
p>ts ( ! _w4 ,o!r decorative mat]ials   
are appli$ 9 simil> ways by atta*m5t to 
cords or fillets :i* are aft]w>ds /it*$ 
d[n4 ,9 all ?is "w ! geometricity is    

entirely or ne>ly uni=m ) t ( !         
f\ndation fabrics4 ,o!r classes (       
decoration1 drawn "w1 appliqu1 & ! l1   
are n ( great importance 9 aborig9al art
 & ne$ no additional att5tion "h1 z !y h
 b slight be>+ ^u ! developm5t ( design4
  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccg4 ,fea!r     
embroid]y ( ! anci5t ,p]uvians1 %[+ !   
me?od ( atta*+ ! fea!rs4  ,atta*$ or    
app5d$ ornam5ts con/itute a mo/         
important "p ( decorative res\rce4 ,!y  
are less subject to ! laws (            
geometricity1 be+ fix$ to surfaces &    
m>g9s )\t close ref]5ce to ! web & wo(4 
,!y include fr+es1 tassels1 & !         
multitude ( app5dable objects1 natural &
 artificial1 ) :i* primitive races b$eck
 _! g>m5ts & ut5sils4 ,a some:at detail$
 /udy ( ?is class ( ornam5t is giv5 at !
 end ( ! prec$+ section4  ,adv5titi\s   
features4--,ornam5t is appli$ to !      
surfaces ( fabrics by pa9t+ & by /amp+4 
,^! me?ods ( decoration 7 employ$ 9 v   
e>ly times & probably orig9at$ 9 o!r    
bran*es ( art4 ,if ! surface features ( 

! textile ^u :i* a design is pa9t$ are  
/rongly pron\nc$1 ! figures produc$ ) ! 
bru% or p5cil w t5d to foll[ !m1 giv+ a 
decid$ly geometric result4 ,if ! surface
 is smoo? ! h& is free to foll[ its     
natural t5d5cies1 & ! results w be      
analog\s 9 "* to designs pa9t$ ^u       
pott]y1 rocks1 or sk9s4 ,9 primitive    
times bo? ! texture ( ! textiles & !    
habits ( ! decorator1 acquir$ 9 textile 
"w1 t5d$ t[>ds ! geometric /yle (       
del9eation1 & we f9d t 9 "w 9 :i* !     
fabric l9es are n foll[$ at all !       
designs are /ill geometric1 & geometric 
9 ! same way z are simil> designs wov5 9
 ) ! fabric4 ,illu/rations ( ?is are    
giv5 9 ! next section4         99       
99       99       99       99  ,i h     
dwelt at suffici5t l5g? ^u ! "* & !     
t5d5cies ( ! peculi> sy/em ( embelli%m5t
 t arises )9 textile art z ! necess>y   
outgr[? ( te*nique1 & n[ proce$ to      
expla9 ! relations ( ?is sy/em to       
associat$ art4  ,9 ! /rong =w>d t5d5cy (
 ! textile sy/em ( decoration x has made

 two conque/s ( especial importance4 ,9 
! fir/ place x has subdu$ & assimilat$  
all ^? elem5ts ( ornam5t t h happ5$ to  
ent] its realm f )\t1 & 9 ! second place
 x has impos$ its habits & cu/oms ^u !  
decorative sy/ems ( all arts ) :i* !    
textile art has come 9 contact4         
,,geometricity ,,impos$ ,,^u ,,adopt$   
,,elem5ts ,,( ,,design4  ,at a v e>ly   
/age ( culture mo/ peoples manife/      
decid$ arti/ic t5d5cies1 :i* are reveal$
 9 attempts to depict v>i\s devices1    
life =ms1 & fancies ^u ! sk9 & ^u !     
surfaces ( ut5sils1 g>m5ts1 & o!r       
articles & objects4 ,! figures are v (t5
 decorative 9 effect & may be ( a       
trivial nature1 b v g5]ally su* art is  
s]i\s & p]ta9s to ev5ts or sup]/itions4 
,! devices employ$ may be purely        
conv5tional or geometric1 conta9+ no    
graphic elem5t :atev]2 b life =ms af=d !
 mo/ natural & satisfactory means (     
record+1 convey+1 & symboliz+ ideas1 &  
h5ce prepond]ate l>gely4 ,su* =ms1 on   
acc\nt ( _! intimate relations ) !      

philosophy ( ! p1 are freely embodi$ 9 e
 art suitable to _! employm5t4 ,z       
already se51 ! peculi> "* ( textile     
con/ruction places great difficulties 9 
! way ( introduc+ unsymmetric & complex 
figures l ^? ( natural objects into     
fabrics4 ,! idea ( s employ+ !m may     
orig9ally h be5 sugge/$ by ! application
 ( designs 9 color to ! wov5 surfaces or
 by resemblances betwe5 ! simpl]        
conv5tional life =m d]ivatives & !      
geometric figures indig5\s to ! art4    
,at any rate1 ! idea ( introduc+ life   
=ms into ! texture 0 sugge/$1 & 9 !     
c\rse ( "t a great deal ( skill 0 %[n 9 
_! del9eation1 ! bold] workm5 v5tur+ to 
employ a wide range ( graphic subjects4 
,n[1 if we exam9e ^! wov5 =ms ) ref]5ce 
to ! modifications br\ght ab\t by !     
textile surveillance1 we f9d t !        
figures1 z introduc$ 9 ! clo?1 d n at   
all correspond ) ^? execut$ by ord9>y   
graphic me?ods1 ei!r 9 degree (         
elaboration or 9 tru?fulness (          
expression4 ,!y h a /yle ( _! own4 ,ea* 

del9eative elem5t ^u ent]+ ! textile    
realm is =c$ into ^? peculi> conv5tional
 outl9es impos$ by ! geometric          
con/ruction1 ! "* ( :i* has already be5 
dwelt ^u at consid]able l5g?4 ,we f9d1  
h[ev]1 t ! degree ( conv5tion is n uni=m
 ?r\gh\t all fabrics1 b t x v>ies ) !   
ref9em5t ( ! ?reads or filam5ts1 !      
compactness ( ! me%1 ! "* ( !           
comb9ation1 ! graphic skill ( ! arti/1 &
 ! t5d5cies ( 8 m9d2 yet we obs]ve t    
?r\gh all !re is /ill exhibit$ a di/9ct 
& peculi> geometricity4  ,s pron\nc$ is 
?is te*nical bias t del9eations ( a     
p>ticul> creature--z1 = example1 a      
bird--execut$ by di/ant & unrelat$      
peoples1 are r$uc$ 9 correspond+ /yles (
 fabric to almo/ id5tical %apes4 ,?is   
conv5tionaliz+ =ce is fur!r illu/rat$ by
 ! t5d5cy 9 textile repres5tation to    
blot out diff]5ces ( "t & culture1 s t  
:5 a civiliz$ artisan1 capable (        
reali/ic pictorial del9eation ( a high  
ord]1 introduces a figure into a c]ta9  
=m ( co>se fabric he arrives at a result

 almo/ id5tical ) t rea*$ by ! savage   
us+ ! same1 :o has no graphic language  
beyond ! rude/ outl9e4  ,a numb] (      
examples may be giv5 illu/rat+ ?is      
rem>kable p[] ( textile comb9ation ov]  
ornam5t4 ,i select ?ree 9 :i* ! human   
figure is pres5t$4 ,"o is *os5 f        
,iroquoian art1 "o f ,digg] ,indian art1
 & "o f ! art ( ! ,incas--peoples       
unequal 9 grade ( culture1 isolat$      
geographically1 & racially di/9ct4 ,i h 
select$ specim5s 9 :i* ! p>ts employ$   
give features ( correspond+ size1 s t   
comp>isons are easily in/itut$4 ,!      
example %[n 9 ,fig4 #cch illu/rates a   
con/ruction peculi> to ! wampum belts ( 
! ,iroquois & _! neighbors1 & q unlike  
ord9>y weav+4 ,x is tak5 f ! middle     
portion ( :at is kn[n z ! ,p5n wampum   
belt4 ,! horizontal s]ies ( /r&s consi/s
 ( n>r[ /rips ( bucksk91 ?r\gh :i* !    
oppos+ s]ies ( ?reads are sew$1 hold+ 9 
place ! r[s ( cyl9drical %ell beads4    
,purple beads are employ$ to develop !  
figures 9 a gr\nd ( :ite beads4 ,if !   

mak] ( ?is belt _h be5 requir$ to       
execute 9 *alk a draw+ depict+ bro!rly  
love ! results w\ld h be5 v diff]5t4    
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cch4 ,figures f ! 
,p5n wampum belt1 %[+ ! conv5tional =m  
impos$ 9 bead "w4  ,my second           
illu/ration 7,fig4 #cci7 is drawn f a   
sup]b example ( ! basketry ( ! ,yokut   
,indians ( ,cali=nia4 ,! two figures =m 
"p ( a spirally radiat+ b& ( ornam5t1   
:i* is %[n to good advantage 9 ! small  
cut4 ,fig4 #cdj4 ,x is ( ! coil$ /yle ( 
con/ruction4 ,! design is work$ 9 f\r   
colors & ! effect is quiet & ri*4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cci4 ,conv5tional 
figures f a ,cali=nia ,indian basket4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdj4 ,basket made 
by ! ,yokut ,indians ( ,cali=nia4       
,turn+ s\?w>d f ,cali=nia & pass+ ?r\gh 
_m /range l&s we f9d ourselves 9 ,p]u1 &
 among a class ( rema9s t bespeak a high
 grade ( culture4 ,! inhabitants (      
,ancon 7 wond]fully skill$ 9 ! textile  
art1 & ?\s&s ( h&some examples h be5    
obta9$ f _! anci5t tombs4 ,among ^!     

relics are _m neat little workbaskets   
wov5 f ru%es4 ,"o ( ^!1 n[ 9 ! ,national
 ,museum1 is encircl$ by a decorat$ belt
 9 :i* are repres5t$ sev5 human figures 
wov5 9 black filam5ts ^u a br[n gr\nd4  
,! base & rim ( ! basket are wov5 9 !   
int]tw9$ comb9ation1 b 9 ! decorat$ belt
 ! /yle is *ang$ to ! pla9 "r angl$     
int]lac+1 = ! reason1 no d\bt1 t ?is    
comb9ation 0 bett] suit$ to ! developm5t
 ( ! int5d$ design4 ,besides !          
fundam5tal s]ies ( fillets ! weav]      
resort$ to unusual devices 9 ord] to    
secure c]ta9 desir$ results4 ,9 ! fir/  
place ! black horizontal s]ies (        
filam5ts does n alt]nate 9 ! simple/ way
 ) ! br[n s]ies1 b1 :]e a wide space ( !
 d>k color is call$ =1 sev]al ( ! br[n  
/r&s are pass$ ov] at "o /ep1 z 9 ! head
 & body1 & 9 ! wid] int]spaces ! d>k    
/r&s pass "u two or m ( ! oppos+ /r&s4  
,9 ?is way broad areas ( color are      
obta9$4 ,x w be obs]v$1 h[ev]1 t !      
con/ruction is weak5$ by ?is            
modification1 & t to rem$y ! defect two 

additional extra con/ructive s]ies (    
fillets are add$4 ,^! are ( mu* light]  
weight ?an ! ma9 s]ies1 t !y may n      
obscure ! patt]n4 ,ov] ! d>k s]ies !y   
run v]tically & ov] ! light obliquely4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cda4 ,conv5tional 
human figures f an anci5t ,p]uvian      
basket4  ,x w be se5 t ! result1 not)/&+
 all ?is modification ( proc$ure1 is    
/ill rem>kably l t ( ! prec$+ examples1 
! figures correspond+ closely 9 k9d &   
degree ( geometricity4  ,! fact is t 9  
?is co>se "w ref9em5t ( draw+ is        
absolutely unatta9able4 ,x appe>s t !   
%>ply pron\nc$ /eps exhibit$ 9 ! outl9es
 are due to ! great wid? ( ! fillets    
us$4 ,) ! f9] ?reads employ$ by mo/     
nations ( mod]ate culture ! /epp$ effect
 ne$ n obtrude itself1 = smoo? outl9es &
 graceful curves are easily atta9able2  
yet1 z a rule1 ev5 ! f9] fabrics cont9ue
 to exhibit 9 _! decorations ! pron\nc$ 
geometric "* se5 9 rud] =ms4 ,i pres5t a
 /rik+ example ( ?is 9 ,fig4 #cdb1 a    
sup]b piece ( ,inc>ian gobel9s1 9 :i* a 

gaily co/um$ p]sonage is work$ ^u a d>k 
r$ gr\nd dott$ ) symbols & /range       
devices4 ,! "w is execut$ 9 brilliant   
colors & 9 great detail4 ,b ) all !     
facility af=d$ = ! expression ( m9utely 
modulat$ =m ! /raight l9es & %>p angles 
are /ill pres5t4 ,! traditions ( ! art 7
 favorable to great geometricity1 & !   
t5d5cies ( ! w>p & wo( & ! %ape ( !     
spaces to be fill$ 7 decid$ly 9 t       
direction4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdb4  
,human figure 9 ,p]uvian gobel9s1 %[+   
*>act]i/ic textile conv5tion4 ,f        
*romoli?ographs publi%$ by ,reiss &     
,/bel 9 ,! ,necropolis ( ,ancon4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdc4 ,human       
figures f a ,p]uvian vase1 done 9 free  
h&1 graphic /yle4  ,9 ord] t ! full =ce 
( my rem>ks may be appreciable to ! eye 
( ! read]1 ,i give an additional        
illu/ration 7,fig4 #cdc74 ,! two figures
 "h %[n1 al?\gh ,i am n able to say     
positively t ! "w is pre-,columbian1 7  
execut$ by a native arti/ ( ab\t ! same 
/age ( culture z 0 ! "w ( ! textile     

design4 ,^! figures are execut$ 9 color 
^u ! smoo? surface ( an e>!n vase &     
illu/rate p]fectly ! peculi> *>act]s (  
free h&1 graphic del9eation4 ,place ?is 
& ! la/ figure side by side & we see h[ 
va/ly diff]5t is ! "w ( two arti/s (    
equal capacity :5 execut$ 9 ! two       
me?ods4 ,?is figure %\ld also be comp>$ 
) ! embroid]$ figures %[n 9 ,fig4 #cdh4 
,! t5d5cies to uni=mity 9 textile       
ornam5t "h illu/rat$ may be obs]v$ ! _w 
ov]4 ,e elem5t ent]+ ! art mu/ und]go a 
simil> metamorphosis2 h5ce ! rem>kable  
p[] ( ?is almo/ univ]sally practic$ art 
^u ! :ole body ( decorative design4     
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdd4 ,human figure
 modifi$ by execution 9 conc5tric       
int]lac$ /yle ( weav+--#a_/c4  ,t !     
range ( results produc$ by v>y+ /yles ( 
weav+ & ( wov5 objects may be           
appreciat$1 ,i pres5t "s additional     
examples4 ,coil$ w>es1 = in/ance1 pres5t
 decorative ph5om5a /rik+ly at v>iance )
 ^? 9 :i* !re is a rectangul>           
disposition ( p>ts4 ,in/ead ( ! two or m

 int]lac+ s]ies ( p>allel fillets       
exhibit$ 9 ! latt] /yle1 we h "o radiate
 & "o conc5tric s]ies4 ,! effect ( ?is  
arrangem5t ^u ! introduc$ human figure  
is v /rik+1 z w be se5 by ref]5ce to    
,fig4 #cdd1 :i* repres5ts a l>ge tray   
obta9$ f ! ,moki ,indians4 ,! figure    
probably repres5ts "o ( ! my?ologic     
p]sonages ( ! ,moki pan!on or "s o!rwise
 important prie/ly function>y1 we>+ !   
*>act]i/ic headdress ( ! c]emony 9 :i* !
 plaque 0 to be us$4 ,! "w is execut$ 9 
wick]1 /a9$ 9 su* bright t9ts z 7       
consid]$ appropriate to ! v>i\s features
 ( ! co/ume4 ,ref]r+ 9 detail to ! %ape 
& arrangem5t ( ! p>ts ( ! figure1 x is  
app>5t t _m ( ! rem>kable features are  
due to con/ructive peculi>ities4 ,! r\nd
 face1 = example1 does n ref] to ! sun  
or ! moon1 b results f ! conc5tric      
weav+4 ,! oblique eyes h no ref]5ce to a
 ,mongolian orig91 z !y only foll[ !    
direction ( ! ray ^u :i* !y are wov51 & 
! headdress does n ref] to ! ra9b[ or ! 
aurora because x is ar*$1 b is ar*$     

because ! con/ruction =c$ x into ?is    
%ape4 ,! proportion ( ! figure is n s v 
bad because ! ,moki arti/ did n "k      
bett]1 b because ! surface ( ! tray did 
n af=d room to project ! body & limbs4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cde4 ,figure ( a  
bird pa9t$ ^u a ,zui %ield1 free h&     
del9eation4  ,n[1 x may be fur!r obs]v$ 
t _h ! figure be5 plac$ at "o side ( !  
c5t]1 ext5d+ only f ! bord] to ! middle 
( ! tray1 an entirely diff]5t result    
w\ld h be5 rea*$2 b ?is is bett]        
illu/rat$ 9 a s]ies ( bird del9eations  
pres5t$ 9 ! foll[+ figures4 ,) _m tribes
 ! bird is an object ( sup]/iti\s int]e/
 & is introduc$ freely into all art     
products suitable = its del9eation4 ,x  
is drawn ^u walls1 sk9s1 pott]y1 & v>i\s
 ut5sils & weapons1 especially ^?       
directly connect$ ) c]emonies 9 :i* !   
my?ical bird is an important factor4 ,! 
bird =m 0 probably 9 famili> use long   
be=e x 0 employ$ 9 ! decoration (       
basketry4 ,9 ,fig4 #cde ,i pres5t an    
ord9>y graphic repres5tation4 ,x is     

copi$ f a ,zui %ield & is ! device ( an 
ord] or ! totem ( a clan4 ,! /yle is q  
conv5tional1 z a result ( ! v>i\s       
con/ra9ts surr\nd+ its production4 ,b   
:at a /range metamorphosis takes place  
:5 x is pres5t$ 9 ! basketmak]'s        
language4 ,obs]ve ! conv5tional patt]n  
%[n ^u ! surface ( a ,moki tray 7,fig4  
#cdf74 ,we h difficulty 9 recogniz+ !   
bird at all1 al?\gh ! conception is     
id5tical ) ! prec$+4 ,! positions ( !   
head & legs & ! exp&$ w+s & tail        
correspond z closely z possible1 b      
del9eation is hamp]$ by te*nique4 ,!    
peculi> con/ruction b>ely p]mits !      
pres5tation ( a recognizable life =m1 & 
p]mits x 9 a p>ticul> way1 :i* w be     
und]/ood by a comp>ison ) ! treatm5t ( !
 human figure 9 ,fig4 #cdd4 ,9 t case ! 
int]lac$ comb9ation gives relievo       
results1 *>act]iz$ by wide1 radiat+ ribs
 & n>r[1 inconspicu\s1 conc5tric l9es1  
:i* cross ! ribs 9 long /eps4 ,! p[] (  
expression lies almo/ :olly ) !         
conc5tric s]ies1 & detail mu/ 9 a great 

measure foll[ ! conc5tric l9es4 ,9 !    
pres5t case 7,fig4 #cdf7 ?is is rev]s$ &
 l9es employ$ 9 express+ =ms are        
radiate4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdf4    
,figure ( a bird execut$ 9 a coil$ ,moki
 tray1 textile del9eation4  ,! precise  
effect ( ?is diff]5ce ( con/ruction ^u a
 p>ticul> feature may be %[n by !       
introduction ( ano!r illu/ration4 ,9    
,fig4 #cdg we h a bird wov5 9 a basket (
 ! int]lac$ /yle4 ,we see ) :at ease !  
long %>p bill & ! sl5d] tongue 7%[n by a
 r$ filam5t betwe5 ! two d>k m&ibles7   
are express$4 ,9 ! o!r case !           
con/ruction is su* t ! bill1 if ext5d$ 9
 ! normal direction1 is broad & squ>e at
 ! end1 & ! tongue1 in/ead ( ly+ betwe5 
! m&ibles1 mu/ run across ! bill1       
totally at v>iance ) ! tru?2 9 ?is case 
! tongue is s repres5t$1 ! light v]tical
 b& se5 9 ! cut be+ a yell[ /ripe4 ,x w 
be se5 t ! two repres5tations are v     
unlike ea* o!r1 n because ( diff]5ces 9 
! conception & n :olly on acc\nt ( !    
/yle ( weav+1 b r because ! arti/ *ose  

to ext5d "o across ! :ole surface ( !   
ut5sil & to conf9e ! o!r to "o side ( ! 
c5t]4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdg4       
,figure ( a bird wov5 9 int]lac$ wick]  
at "o side ( ! c5t]4  ,x is cle>1 !re=e1
 f ! prec$+ obs]vations t ! conv5tion ( 
wov5 life =ms v>ies ) ! k9d ( weav+1 ) !
 %ape ( ! object1 ) ! position ^u !     
object1 & ) ! %ape ( ! space occupi$1 z 
well z ) ! inh]it$ /yle ( treatm5t & ) !
 capacity ( ! arti/ conc]n$4 ,^! v>i$   
=ces & influ5ces unite 9 ! metamorphosis
 ( all ! incom+ elem5ts ( textile       
embelli%m5t4  ,x w be ( int]e/ to exam9e
 some:at closely ! modifications produc$
 9 pictorial motives introduc$ ?r\gh    
sup]/ructural & adv5titi\s ag5cies4  ,we
 are accu/om$1 at ?is age ( ! _w1 to see
 ne$lework employ$ successfully 9 !     
del9eation ( graphic =ms & obs]ve t ev5 
! ,indian1 "u ! tutelage ( ! ,european1 
reproduces 9 a m or less reali/ic way ! 
=ms ( vegetal & animal life4 ,z a result
 we f9d x difficult to realize !        
simplicity & cons]vatism ( primitive    

art4 ,! int5tion ( ! primitive arti/ 0  
g5]ally n to depict nature1 b to express
 an idea or decorate a space1 & !re 0 no
 /rong reason :y ! figures %\ld n submit
 to ! conv5tionaliz+ t5d5cies ( ! art4  
,i h already %[n t embroid]$ designs1   
al?\gh n f necessity conf9$ to geometric
 outl9es1 t5d to take a purely geometric
 "* f ! fabric ^u :i* !y are execut$1 z 
well z f ! me*anical processes ( /it*+4 
,?is is well %[n 9 ,fig4 #cdh1 a f9e    
specim5 giv5 by ,wi5] 9 8 "w ,pr\ et    
,bolive4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdh4    
,embroid]y ^u a cotton net 9 :i* !      
textile comb9ations are foll[$ /ep by   
/ep4 ,anci5t ,p]uvian "w4  ,a life =m   
work$ ^u a net does n diff] ess5tially f
 ! same subject wov5 9 ) ! web & wo(4 ,!
 reason is f\nd 9 ! fact t 9 embroid]y !
 workman 0 accu/om$ f ! fir/ to foll[ ! 
geometric comb9ation ( ! f\ndation      
fabric /ep by /ep1 & lat] 9 life        
del9ation he pursu$ ! same me?od4  ,x   
w\ld seem natural1 h[ev]1 t :5 !        
f\ndation fabric does n exhibit well    

m>k$ geometric *>act]s1 z 9 compactly   
wov5 canvas1 ! ne$lework w\ld assume    
free h& *>act]s & foll[ ! curves &      
irregul>ities ( ! natural object        
depict$2 b su* is n ! case 9 purely     
aborig9al "w4 ,an example ( embroid]y   
obta9$ f an anci5t grave at ,ancon1     
,p]u1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cdi4 ,a piece (   
br[n cotton canvas is embelli%$ ) a     
bord] ( bird figures 9 bright color$    
wool ?read4 ,! l9es ( ! figures d n obey
 ! web & wo( /rictly1 z ! l9es are      
difficult to foll[1 b ! geometric "* is 
z p]fectly pres]v$ z if ! design 7 wov5 
9 ! goods4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdi4  
,embroid]y 9 :i* ! f\ndation fabric is n
 foll[$ accurately1 b :i* exhibits !    
full textile geometricity4 ,anci5t      
,p]uvian "w4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cej4
 ,design pa9t$ 9 color ^u a wov5        
surface1 exhibit+ ! full degree (       
geometric conv5tion4 ,anci5t ,p]uvian   
"w4 ,copi$ f ,! ,necropolis ( ,ancon4   
,s habit & association c>ry ! geometric 
sy/em into adv5titi\s decoration4 ,:5 ! 

anci5t ,p]uvian execut$ a design 9 color
 ^u a wov5 surface 7,fig4 #cej71 us+ a  
p5cil or bru%1 ! result 0 h>dly less    
subject to textile re/ra9t4  ,z a matt] 
( c\rse1 s9ce !re are two di/9ct /yles (
 decorative design--! textile & ! free  
h&--!re exi/ int]m$iate =ms p>tak+ ( !  
"* ( bo?2 b x is nev]!less cle> t !     
textile sy/em trans=ms or greatly       
modifies all nature motives associat$ ) 
x1 :e!r introduc$ into ! fabric or      
appli$ to its surface4  ,9 c\ntries :]e 
! textile art is unimportant & ! textile
 sy/em ( decoration does n obtrude      
itself1 free h& me?ods may prevail to   
su* an ext5t t ! geometric influ5ce is b
 little felt4 ,! ,haidah ,indians1 =    
example1 pa9t designs ) great fre$om &  
skill1 & ^? appli$ to wov5 surfaces are 
id5tical ) ^? execut$ ^u sk9s1 wood1 &  
/one1 b ?is art is d\btless mu* modifi$ 
by ! means & me?ods ( ,europeans4 ,our  
/udies %\ld be conf9$ :olly to pure     
indig5\s art4   ,,ext5sion ,,( ,,textile
 ,,ornam5t ,,to ,,o!r ,,=ms ,,( ,,art4  

,i h n[ dwelt at suffici5t l5g? ^u ! "* 
( ! textile sy/em ( ornam5t & h laid    
especial /ress ^u ! mann] 9 :i* x is    
int]wov5 ) ! te*nical con/itution ( !   
art4 ,i h illu/rat$ ! rem>kable p[] ( ! 
art by :i* decorative elem5ts f )\t1    
com+ once )9 ! magic influ5ce1 are seiz$
 ^u & remodel$ 9 accordance ) ! laws (  
textile comb9ation4 ,pursu+ !           
inve/igation /ill fur!r x is f\nd t !   
dom9ion ( ! textile sy/em is n limit$ to
 ! art1 b ext5ds to o!r arts4 ,l a /rong
 race ( m5 x is n to be conf9$ to its   
own orig9al habitat1 b spreads to o!r   
realms1 /amp+ its own habits & "* ^u    
:atev] happ5s to come )9 its rea*4 ,its 
influ5ce is felt ?r\gh\t ! :ole range ( 
^? arts ) :i* ! e/hetic s5se ( man seeks
 to associate ideas ( beauty4 ,x is     
necess>y1 be=e clos+ ?is pap]1 to exam9e
 briefly ! "* & ext5t ( ?is influ5ce &  
to describe 9 "s detail ! ag5cies ?r\gh 
:i* ! results are accompli%$4 ,fir/ &   
mo/ important are ! results ( direct    
transmission4  ,h\se build+1 or         

ar*itecture z x is call$ 9 ! high]      
/ages1 is 9 primitive times to a great  
ext5t textile2 z culture develops1 o!r  
mat]ials & o!r sy/ems ( con/ruction are 
employ$1 & ! resultant =ms v>y          
accord+ly2 b textile *>act]s are        
especially /rong & p]si/5t 9 ! matt] (  
ornam5t1 & survive all *anges1 h[soev]  
complete4 ,9 a simil> way o!r bran*es ( 
art diff]5tiat$ 9 mat]ial & function f !
 p>5t art inh]it _m *>act]s ( =m &      
ornam5t conceiv$ 9 ! textile /age4 ,x   
may be difficult to say ) ref]5ce to any
 p>ticul> example ( design t x _h a     
textile orig91 = !re may be multiple    
orig9s to ! same or to closely          
correspond+ =ms2 b we may ass]t 9 a     
g5]al way ( ! great body ( geometric    
ornam5t t x owes some?+--if n its       
inspiration1 its modes ( expression--to 
! tea*+s ( ! textile sy/em4 ,?is appe>s 
reasonable :5 we consid] t ! weav]'s    
art1 z a m$ium ( e/hetic ideas1 _h      
prec$5ce 9 "t ov] ne>ly all competitors4
 ,be+ fir/ 9 ! field x /ood ready on !  

bir? ( new =ms ( art1 :e!r directly     
relat$ or n1 to impose its *>act]s ^u   
!m4 ,:at claim c ar*itecture1 sculpture1
 or c]amics h ^u ! decorative           
conceptions ( ! ,digg] ,indians1 or ev5 
^u ^? ( ! ,zui or ,moki8 ,! =m] h no    
ar*itecture1 sculpture1 or c]amics2 b _!
 sy/em ( decoration1 z we h se51 is     
highly develop$4 ,! ,pueblo tribes at _!
 be/ h b>ely rea*$ ! /age at :i* e/hetic
 ideas are associat$ ) build+2 yet      
classic art has n produc$ a set (       
geometric motives m *a/e or v>i$4 ,^!   
examples ( ! developm5t ( high =ms (    
decoration dur+ ! v e>ly /ages ( ! arts 
are n isolat$4 ,o!rs are obs]v$ 9 o!r   
c\ntries1 & x is probable t if we c\ld  
lift ! veil & pe] into ! f> prehi/oric  
/ages ( ! _w's greate/ cultures ! same  
condition & ord] w\ld be reveal$4 ,x is 
no d\bt true t all ( ! %ap+ arts 9 !    
fullness ( _! developm5t h giv5 rise to 
decorative features peculi> to !mselves2
 = con/ruction1 :e!r 9 /one1 clay1 wood1
 or metal1 9 _! rigid conditions1       

exhibits *>act]s unkn[n be=e1 _m ( :i*  
t5d to give rise to ornam5t4 ,b ?is     
ornam5t is g5]ally only applicable to ! 
art 9 :i* x develops1 & is n transf]able
 by natural processes--z ( a p>5t to its
 (fspr+--z are ! e/hetic features ( !   
weav]'s art4  ,besides ! direct         
transmission ( *>act]s & =ms z sugge/$ 9
 a prec$+ p>agraph1 !re are _m less     
direct b /ill efficaci\s me?ods (       
transf] by means ( :i* v>i\s arts       
acquire textile decorative features1 z w
 be se5 by ! foll[+ illu/rations4       
,japanese art is celebrat$ = its        
exquisite decorative design4 ,^u sup]b  
works ( porcela9 we h skillful          
repres5tations ( subjects tak5 f nature 
& f my?ology1 :i* are set ) p]fect ta/e 
^u fields or )9 bord]s ( elaborate      
geometric design4 ,if we %\ld ask h[ su*
 motives came to be employ$ 9 c]amic    
decoration1 ! answ] w\ld be giv5 t !y 7 
select$ & employ$ because !y 7 reg>d$ z 
fitt+ & beautiful by a race ( decorators
 ^: ta/e is well nigh infallible4 ,b ?is

 explanation1 h[ev] satisfactory z      
appli$ to individual examples ( mod]n   
art1 is n at all applicable to primitive
 art1 = ! m9d ( man 0 n prim>ily        
consci\s ( ! beauty or fitness (        
decorative elem5ts1 nor did he ?9k ( us+
 !m indep5d5tly ( ! art to :i* !y 7     
indig5\s4 ,n[ ! c]amic art gives rise to
 comp>atively few elem5ts ( decoration1 
& mu/ !re=e acquire ! great body ( its  
decorative motives f o!r arts by "s     
process n prim>ily dep5d5t ^u ! ex]cise 
( judgm5t or ta/e1 & yet n by direct    
inh]itance1 z ! te*niques ( ! two arts  
are :olly di/9ct4  ,textile & fictile   
arts are1 9 _! e>li] /ages1 to a l>ge   
ext5t1 vessel mak+ arts1 ! "o be+       
functionally ! (f%oot ( ! o!r4 ,!       
textile art is ! p>5t1 &1 z ,i h already
 %[n1 develops )9 itself a geometric    
sy/em ( ornam5t4 ,! fictile art is !    
(f%oot & has )9 itself no pr$ilection = 
decoration4 ,x is dep5d5t & pla/ic4 ,its
 =ms are to a great ext5t model$ & mold$
 )9 ! textile %apes & acquire           

automatically "s ( ! decorative surface 
*>act]s ( ! mold4 ,?is is ! beg9n+ ( !  
transf]1 & z "t goes on o!r me?ods are  
sugge/$ by :i* elem5ts indig5\s to ! "o 
art are transf]r$ to ! o!r4 ,?us we     
expla9 ! occurr5ce1 ! con/ant recurr5ce 
( c]ta9 prim>y decorative motives 9     
primitive c]amics4 ,! h]r+ bone1 !      
*eck]1 ! guillo*e1 & ! l are greatly !  
h]itage ( ! textile art4 ,two =ms d]iv$ 
f textile surfaces are illu/rat$ 9      
,figs4 #cea & #ceb4 ,9 ! fir/ example   
%[n1 h]r+ bone patt]ns appe> z ! result 
( textile comb9ation1 & 9 ! second a    
triangul> *eck] is produc$ 9 ! same way4
 ,9 ,fig4 #ceb we see ! result ( copy+  
^! patt]ns 9 incis$ l9es ^u s(t clay4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cea4 ,h]r+ bone & 
*eck] patt]ns produc$ 9 textile         
comb9ations4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceb4
 ,h]r+ bone & *eck] figures 9 fictile   
=ms transf]r$ f ! textile4  ,aga91 !    
anci5t pott]1 :o 0 9 ! habit ( model+ 8 
w>es )9 baskets1 seems to h conceiv$ !  
idea ( build+ 8 vessels by coil+ j z he 

built 8 baskets4 ,! surface exhibits    
coil$ ridges l basketry1 z %[n 9 ,fig4  
#cec1 & ! textile "* 0 fur!r impos$ ^u !
 clay by m>k+ ^! coils ) ! ?umb & )     
implem5ts to give ! effect ( ! transv]se
 s]ies ( filam5ts1 & ! geometric color  
patt]ns ( ! basketry 7 reproduc$ 9      
incis$ l9es4 ,:5 ^! peoples came to pa9t
 _! w>es x 0 natural t ! color$ patt]ns 
native to ! basketry %\ld also be       
reproduc$1 & _m m or less lit]al        
transf]s by copy+ are to be f\nd4 ,a f9e
 example ( ^! pa9t$ textile designs is  
%[n 9 ,fig4 #ced4 ,x is execut$ 9 a     
ma/]ly /yle ^u a h&some vase ( ! :ite   
w>e ( anci5t ,tusayan4 ,n only are !    
details reproduc$ ) all _! geometric    
exactness1 b ! arrangem5t ( ! designs ^u
 ! vessel is ! same z 9 ! textile       
orig9al4 ,n9e-t5?s ( ! m ar*aic1        
,pueblo1 c]amic1 ornam5tal designs are  
traceable to ! textile art1 & all %[ !  
influ5ce ( textile conv5tion4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cec4 ,e>!n vase   
built by coil+1 exhibit+ decorative     

*>act]s d]iv$ f basketry4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #ced4 ,c]amic ornam5t copi$     
lit]ally f a textile orig9al4  ,ano!r   
peculi> class ( transf]s ( a some:at m  
indirect nature may be notic$4 ,all ! m 
advanc$ ,am]ican nations 7 v fond (     
model+ ! human =m 9 clay1 a l>ge        
p]c5tage ( vessels hav+ "s trace ( !    
human =m or physiognomy4 ,n[1 9 _m cases
 ! co/ume ( ! p]sonage repres5t$ 9 !    
clay is also imitat$1 & g5]ally 9 color1
 ! details ( ! fabrics receiv+ _! full  
%>e ( att5tion4 ,su* an example1 f a    
sepul*] at ,ancon1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cee4 
,"h ! pon*o or mantle ?r[n across !     
%\ld]s falls d[n ^u ! body 9 front &    
beh9d & ! /ripes & conv5tional fi%es are
 accurately reproduc$4 ,9 ?is way bo?   
/yle & matt] ( ! textile decoration are 
introduc$ into ! c]amic art4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cee4 ,textile     
patt]ns transf]r$ to pott]y ?r\gh !     
copy+ ( co/ume4 ,f ,! ,necropolis (     
,ancon1 by ,reiss & ,/bel1 ,pl4 #id4  ,x
 w be se5 by ^! illu/rations t !re are  

_m natural me?ods1 automatic or         
semiautomatic 9 "*1 by :i* ! "o art     
receives aid f ! o!r2 t 9 ! beg9n+ ( !  
transf] ( textile ornam5t to fictile =ms
 ! process is purely me*anical1 & t x is
 cont9u$ automatically )\t any v decid$ 
ex]cise ( judgm5t or ta/e4 ,z a result1 
^! borr[$ decorations are g5]ally q z   
consi/5t & appropriate z if develop$ )9 
! art itself4 ,lat] 9 ! c\rse ( progress
 ! pott] escapes 9 a measure f ?is n>r[ 
groove & elaborates 8 designs ) m       
fre$om1 be+ gov]n$ /ill to a c]ta9 ext5t
 by ! laws ( in/9ctive & automatic      
proc$ure4 ,:51 f9ally1 intellect assumes
 to c>ry on ! "w indep5d5tly ( ^! laws1 
decoration t5ds to become debas$4       
,turn+ to o!r bran*es ( art1 :at traces 
d we f9d ( ! transf] to !m ( textile    
features8 ,take1 = example1 sculpture4  
,9 ! wood c>v+ ( ! ,polynesians we      
obs]ve a mo/ elaborate sy/em (          
decoration1 m or less geometric 9 "*4   
,we d n ne$ to look a second "t to      
discov] a /rik+ lik5ess to ! textile    

sy/em1 & we ask1 ,is x also d]iv$ f a   
textile s\rce8 ,9 ! fir/ place let u    
seek )9 ! art a reason = ! peculi> =ms4 
,9 c>v+ wood & 9 trac+ figures ^u x )   
po9t$ tools ! t5d5cy w\ld c]ta9ly be    
t[>ds /raight l9es & =mal comb9ations2 b
 9 ?is "w !re w\ld be a lack ( uni=mity 
9 execution & ( p]si/5cy 9 n>r[ l9es (  
comb9ation1 su* z result f ! con/ant    
necessity ( c\nt+ & spac+ 9 ! textile   
art4 ,9 ! pres5tation ( natural =ms     
curv$ l9es are call$ =1 & !re is no?+   
inh]5t 9 ! c>v]'s art to =bid ! turn+ ( 
su* l9es ) ! grav] or knife4 ,graphic   
art w\ld be reali/ic to an ext5t        
regulat$ by ! skill & habits ( ! arti/4 
,b1 9 reality1 ! geometric "* ( ?is "w  
is v pron\nc$1 & we turn naturally t[>d 
! textile art to ask :e!r 9 "s way t art
 has n ex]cis$ an influ5ce4 ,! textile  
arts ( ^! peoples are highly develop$ & 
7 d\btless s 9 a degree f v e>ly times1 
& mu/ h _h a close relation ) ! v>i\s   
arts1 & especially s 9 ! matt] (        
ornam5t4 ,specific examples may be cit$ 

%[+ ! intimacy ( wood c>v+ to textilia4 
,b[s1 spe>s1 arr[s1 c4 are b\nd )       
textile mat]ials to increase _! /r5g?4  
,knives & o!r weapons are cov]$ )       
textile %ea?s & h&les ( c]ta9 ut5sils   
are la%$ on ) twi/$ cords4 ,9 c]emonial 
objects ^! textile features are         
elaborat$ = ornam5t & ! *>act]i/ic      
features ( ?is ornam5t are transf]r$ to 
associat$ surfaces ( wood & /one by !   
grav]4 ,a mo/ in/ructive illu/ration is 
se5 9 ! c]emonial adzes s num]\s 9      
museums 7,fig4 #cef74 ,! cords us$      
prim>ily 9 atta*+ ! haft are1 aft] loss 
( function1 elaborately plait$ &        
int]wov5 until !y become an important   
feature & assume ! "* ( decoration4 ,!  
heavy wood5 h&les are elaborately c>v$1 
& ! sugge/ions ( figures giv5 by !      
int]lac$ cords are c>ri$ out 9 su*      
detail t at a little di/ance x is       
impossible to say :]e ! real textile    
surface ceases & ! sculptur$ portion    
beg9s4  ,all ?+s consid]$1 ,i reg>d x z 
highly probable t mu* ( ! geometric "*  

exhibit$ 9 ,polynesian decoration is due
 to textile dom9ance4 ,t ^! peoples are 
9 ! habit ( employ+ textile designs 9   
non-textile arts is %[n 9 articles (    
co/ume1 su* z ! tapa clo?s1 made f ! b>k
 ( ! mulb]ry tree1 :i* are pa9t$ or     
/amp$ 9 elaborate geometric patt]ns4    
,?is transf] is also a p]fectly natural 
"o1 z ! ornam5t is appli$ to articles   
hav+ functions id5tical ) ! wov5 /uffs 9
 :i* ! patt]ns orig9ate1 &1 besides1 !  
transf] is accompli%$ by means ( /amps  
!mselves textile4 ,fig4 #ceg illu/rates 
! con/ruction ( ^! /amps & indicates j  
h[ ! textile "* is acquir$4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cef4 ,c]emonial   
adz1 ) c>v$ ornam5t imitat+ textile     
wrapp+4 ,polynesian "w4  ,textile       
mat]ials are v g5]ally associat$ ) !    
human figure 9 art1 & ?us sculpture1 :i*
 deals *iefly ) ! human =m1 becomes     
famili> ) geometric motives & acquires  
!m4 ,?r\gh sculpture ^! motives ent]    
ar*itecture4 ,b textile decoration      
p]vades ar*itecture be=e ! sculptor's   

*isel beg9s to c>ve ornam5t 9 /one &    
be=e ar*itecture has develop$ ( itself !
 rudim5ts ( a sy/em ( surface           
embelli%m5t4 ,textile art 9 mats1 cov]s1
 %elt]s1 & drap]ies is intimately       
associat$ ) floors & walls ( h\ses1 & ! 
textile devices are 9 "t transf]r$ to ! 
/one & pla/]4 ,! wall ( an anci5t       
,pueblo e/ufa1 or c]emonial *amb]1 built
 9 ! pre-e/hetic p]iod ( ar*itecture1   
ant$at+1 9 /age ( culture1 ! fir/ kn[n  
/ep 9 ,egyptian art1 is encircl$ by a b&
 ( pa9t$ figures1 borr[$1 l ^? ( !      
pott]y1 f a textile s\rce4 ,! doorway or
 r entrance to ! rude hovel ( a ,navajo 
,indian is clos$ by a blanket ( native  
make1 unsurpass$ 9 execution & exhibit+ 
conv5tional designs ( a high ord]4      
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceg4 ,portion ( a 
tapa /amp1 %[+ its subtextile "*4 ,a    
palm leaf is cut to ! desir$ %ape & !   
patt]ns are sew$ 9 or /it*$ on4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceh4 ,design 9    
/ucco1 exhibit+ textile *>act]s4  ,!    
anci5t hall ( ! arabesques at ,*imu1    

,p]u1 is decorat$ 9 elaborate designs t 
c\ld only h aris5 9 ! textile art 7,fig4
 #ceh71 & o!r equally /rik+ examples are
 to be f\nd 9 o!r ,am]ican c\ntries4 ,! 
classic surface decorations kn[n & us$ 9
 ,ori5tal c\ntries f "t immemorial      
prevail$ 9 indig5\s ,am]ican ar*itecture
 at a /age ( culture l[] ?an any kn[n   
/age ( classic art4  ,x may appe> t ,i h
 advocat$ too /rongly ! claims ( !      
textile art to ! p>5tage ( geometric    
ornam5t & t ! conclusions rea*$ are n   
entirely satisfactory1 b ,i h endeavor$ 
s to pres5t ! v>i$ ph5om5a ( ! art t !  
/ud5t may readily rea* d$uctions ( 8    
own4 ,a correspond+ly c>eful /udy ( o!r 
bran*es ( art w probably enable u f9ally
 to =m a j e/imate ( ! relative         
importance ( ! =ces & t5d5cies conc]n$ 9
 ! evolution ( decoration4          99  
99       99       99       99           
,,index   ,alaskan ,indians1 illu/ration
 ( ornam5tation by #aii ,ancon1 ,p]u1   
examples ( ornam5tation f graves at     
#bab1 #bcj1   #bca1 #bcf1 #bdc1 #bdh    

,apa*e1 illu/rations ( ornam5tation by  
#aih1 #bac1 #bbc ,briti% ,guiana        
,indians1 illu/rations ( ornam5tation by
 #bag ,*imu1 ,p]u1 ornam5tation ( hall (
 arabesques at #bea1 #beb ,clallam      
,indians1 illu/rations ( ornam5tation by
 #bjg ,color 9 textile art #bja1 #bjb   
,color ph5om5a 9 textile ornam5t        
#bae-bcb ,=m 9 textile art & its        
relation to ornam5t1 ) illu/rations   f 
,indian "w #aif-bja ,geometric design1  
relations (1 to textile ornam5t #bjb-bdd
 ,holmes1 ,w4 ,h4 pap] by1 on textile   
art 9 its relation to !   developm5t (  
=m & ornam5t #ahi-beb ,klama? ,indians1 
illu/rations ( ornam5tation by #bjh1    
#bji1 #bbg ,mc,cloud ,riv] ,indians1    
illu/rations ( ornam5tation by #bba     
,moki1 illu/rations ( ornam5tation by   
#aig1 #bje1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #bbf1   #bch1   
#bdj ,nor?we/ ,coa/ ,indians1           
illu/rations ( ornam5tation by #bac1    
#bah1 #bbg1 #bcj ,p5n wampum belt #bcc  
,p]uvians1 anci5t1 illu/rations (       
ornam5tation by #baa1 #bab1   #bad1     

#bbh1 #bcj1 #bca1 #bce1 #bcf1 #bcg1     
#bdb1 #bdc1 #bdh ,pima ,indians1        
illu/rations ( ornam5tation by #bbj     
,piute ,indians1 illu/rations (         
ornam5tation by #aih1 #bje ,polynesian  
ornam5tation1 illu/rations ( #bdi1 #bej 
,sem9ole ,indians1 illu/rations (       
ornam5tation by #bjg ,textile art 9 its 
relation to ! developm5t ( =m & ornam5t1
   pap] by ,w4 ,h4 ,holmes on #ahi-beb  
,tule ,riv] ,indians1 illu/rations (    
ornam5tation by #bai ,tusayan ornam5t1  
illu/rations ( #bdg1 #bdh ,wi5]1 cit$   
#bdb ,yokut ,indians1 illu/rations (    
ornam5tation by #bcc1 #bcd ,zui1        
illu/rations ( ornam5tation by #bci     
99       99       99       99       99