,transcribed from the #ahhf ,religious ,tract ,society edition by ,david ,price1 email ccx#jgd;coventry4ac4uk ,,the ,r4 ,t4 ,s4 ,,library--,,illustrated ,,adventures ,,in ,,new ,,guinea ,,by ,,james ,,chalmers ,,of ,,port ,,moresby ,,with ,,six ,,illustrations ,,the ,,religious ,,tract ,,society #ef1 ,,paternoster ,,row2 #fe1 ,,st4 ,,paul',s ,,churchyard2 ,,and #afd1 ,,piccadilly #ahhf4 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing ,,cross4 ,port ,moresby3 title4jpg ,,introduction4 ,public attention has been repeatedly and prominently directed to ,new ,guinea during the last few months4 ,the name often appears in our newspapers and missionary reports1 and bids fair to take a somewhat prominent place in our blue-books4 ,yet very few general readers possess accurate information about the island itself1 about the work of ,english missionaries there1 or about the part ,new ,guinea seems destined to play in ,australian politics4 ,hence a brief sketch indicating the present state of knowledge on these points will be a fitting introduction to the narratives of exploration1 of adventure1 and of ,christian work contained in this volume4 ,new ,guinea1 if we may take ,australia as a continent1 is the largest island in the world1 being1 roughly speaking1 about #adjj miles long1 and #dij broad at its widest point4 ,its northernmost coast nearly touches the equator1 and its southernmost stretches down to #aa degrees south latitude4 ,little more than the fringe or coastline of the island has been at all carefully explored1 but it is known to possess magnificent mountain ranges1 vast stretches of beautiful scenery1 much land that is fruitful1 even under native cultivation1 and mighty rivers that take their rise far inland4 ,its savage inhabitants have aroused powerfully the interest and sympathy alike of ,christian ,polynesians and ,english missionaries1 who1 taking their lives in their hands1 have1 in not a few instances1 laid them down in the effort to win ,new ,guinea for ,christ4 ,at some remote period of the past1 ,new ,guinea1 in all probability1 formed a part of ,australia4 ,torres ,strait itself is only about sixty miles wide2 the water is shallow2 shoals and reefs abound1 giving the sailor who threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression that he is sailing over what was once solid earth4 ,the first ,european sailor who sighted the island was ,d',abreu1 in #aeaa2 the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to the ,portuguese explorer1 ,don ,jorge ,de ,meneses1 in #aebf1 on his way from ,malacca to the ,moluccas4 ,into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the ,dutch with the north-west coast of ,new ,guinea we cannot here enter4 ,as suzerain nominally under the ,sultan of ,tidore1 they claim possession of the western part of the island as far east as ,lat4 #ada degrees #dg' ,e4 ,the trade they carry on is said to be worth about #bj1jjjl4 a year4 ,dutch missionaries have for many years been stationed around the coast of ,geelvink ,bay4 ,in #aggj1 ,captain ,cook visited the south-west coast1 and in #agge1 an ,english officer1 ,forrest by name1 spent some months on the north-east coast in search of spices4 ,in #agic1 ,new ,guinea was annexed by two of the ,east ,india ,company's commanders1 and an island in ,geelvink ,bay1 ,manasvari by name1 was for a time held by their troops4 ,partial surveys of the south coast were made in #ahde by ,captain ,blackwood1 who discovered the ,fly ,river2 by ,lieutenant ,yule1 in #ahdf1 who journeyed east as far as the island to which he has given his name2 and in #ahdh by ,captain ,owen ,stanley1 who made a fairly accurate survey of the south-east coast4 ,the most important survey work along the coast of ,new ,guinea was done in #ahgc by ,h4,m4 ship ,basilisk1 under the command of ,captain ,moresby4 ,he discovered the now-famous harbour1 ,port ,moresby2 he laid down the true eastern coastline of the island1 discovering the ,china ,straits1 and exploring the north-east coast as far west as ,huon ,gulf4 ,in many parts of the world ,christian missionaries have been the first to get on friendly terms with the natives1 and thus to pave the way for developing the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants in the paths of progress and civilization4 ,pre-eminently has this been the case in ,south-eastern ,new ,guinea4 ,white men had landed before them1 it is true2 but for the most part only to benefit themselves1 and not unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery4 ,christianity has won great victories in ,polynesia1 but no part of the globe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the part of white men towards savage races4 ,the history of the work done by members of the ,london ,missionary ,society is already a long one4 ,as far back as #ahga1 the ,revs4 ,a4 ,w4 ,murray and ,s4 ,mc,farlane sailed from ,mare1 one of the ,loyalty ,islands1 with eight native teachers1 inhabitants of that group1 with whom to begin the campaign against sin1 superstition1 and savagery in ,new ,guinea4 ,the first station occupied was ,darnley ,island1 and ,mr4 ,murray gives an incident that well illustrates the spirit in which these men1 themselves trophies of missionary success1 entered upon their work4 ,speaking about another island1 the natives1 in the hope of intimidating the teachers1 said1 ,there are alligators there1 and snakes1 and centipedes4 ,hold1 said the teacher1 are there men there8 ,oh yes1 was the reply1 there are men2 but they are such dreadful savages that it is no use your thinking of living among them4 ,that will do1 replied the teacher4 ,wherever there are men1 missionaries are bound to go4 ,teachers were stationed at the islands of ,tauan and ,sabaii4 ,later on1 ,yule ,island and ,redscar ,bay were visited1 and the missionaries returned to ,lifu4 ,in #ahgb1 ,mr4 ,murray returned in the ,john ,williams with thirteen additional teachers1 and for the next two years superintended the mission from ,cape ,york4 ,in #ahgd1 he was joined by the ,revs4 ,s4 ,mc,farlane and ,w4 ,g4 ,lawes--who have both ever since that time laboured hard and successfully on behalf of the natives--and the steamer ,ellengowan was placed at the service of the mission by the liberality of the late ,miss ,baxter1 of ,dundee4 ,the native teachers experienced many vicissitudes4 ,some died from inability to stand the climate1 some were massacred by the men they were striving to bless2 but the gaps were filled up as speedily as possible1 and the map recently issued 7,jan4 #ahhe7 by the ,directors of the ,society shows that on the south-eastern coast of ,new ,guinea1 from ,motumotu to ,east ,cape1 no less than thirty-two native teachers1 some of them ,new ,guinea converts1 are now toiling in the service of the ,gospel4 ,in #ahgg1 the ,rev4 ,james ,chalmers joined the mission1 and it is hardly too much to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history4 ,he is wonderfully equipped for the work to which he has1 under ,god's ,providence1 put his hand1 and is the white man best known to all the natives along the south coast4 ,from the first he has gone among them unarmed1 and though not unfrequently in imminent peril1 has been marvellously preserved4 ,he has combined the qualities of missionary and explorer in a very high degree1 and while beloved as ,tamate 7,teacher7 by the natives1 has added enormously to the stock of our geographical knowledge of ,new ,guinea1 and to our accurate acquaintance with the ways of thinking1 the habits1 superstitions1 and mode of life of the various tribes of natives4 ,notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for the exploration of ,new ,guinea1 he has travelled the farthest yet into the interior4 ,he has been as far as ,lat4 ,s4 #i degrees #b' and ,long4 ,e4 #adg degrees #db4e'4 ,the farthest point reached by ,captain ,armit was about ,lat4 ,s4 #i degrees #ce' and ,long4 ,e4 #adg degrees #ch'4 ,mr4 ,morrison merely reached a point on the ,goldie ,river1 when he was attacked and wounded by the natives4 ,this compelled the party to return to ,port ,moresby4 ,mr4 ,chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on the great island1 and he has placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of the ,religious ,tract ,society1 in the hope that their publication may increase the general store of knowledge about ,new ,guinea1 and may also give true ideas about the natives1 the kind of ,christian work that is being done in their midst1 and the progress in it that is being made4 ,the prominence which ,new ,guinea has assumed in the public mind lately is due much more to political than to religious reasons4 ,england is a ,christian nation1 and there are numbers who rejoice in ,new ,guinea as a signal proof of the regenerating power of the ,gospel of ,christ4 ,yet1 to the ,christian man1 it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply the press of our country is stirred by the statement that ,germany has annexed the north coast of ,new ,guinea1 while it has hardly been touched by the thrilling story of the introduction of ,christianity all along the south coast4 ,the public mind is much exercised in discussing whether ,her ,majesty's ,government should annex the whole rather than proclaim a protectorate over a part2 it hardly cares to remember the names of those who have died in trying to make known to the fierce ,papuans our common brotherhood in ,christ ,jesus4 ,one can understand that this is natural2 still it will be an augury of good for the future of the ,english people1 when1 without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs1 they care more for the victories won by faith alone1 over ignorance1 vice1 and barbarism1 than for the victories won by the rifle and sword1 however just the cause may be in which these weapons are used4 ,for years past the idea has been gaining force in the public mind1 both in the colonies and at home1 that ultimately ,england would annex ,new ,guinea4 ,to any careful student of our history for the last century1 it may appear strange that we have not done so long before4 ,our practice in the past has been to annex first1 and to find reasons for it afterwards4 ,to others1 the very fact that even now the extremest step is only to proclaim a protectorate over a part1 may appear to indicate that we are not quite so sure as we have been that annexation is wholly a blessing either to us or to the land annexed4 ,as already noted1 in #ahgc1 ,captain ,moresby did good service by accurately laying down the coastline of ,eastern ,new ,guinea4 ,in accomplishing this1 he discovered that there were several beautiful islands that had hitherto been considered part of the mainland4 ,it is best perhaps to give what followed in his own words3-- ,the importance of our discoveries led me to consider their bearing on ,imperial and ,australian interests4 ,there lay the vast island of ,new ,guinea1 dominating the shores of ,northern ,australia1 separated at one point by only twenty miles of coral reef from ,british possessions1 commanding the ,torres ,straits route1 commanding the increasing pearl- shell fisheries1 and also the beche-de-mer fishery4 ,it was also improved by the richness and beauty1 and the number of their fine vegetable products--fine timber1 the cocoanut1 the sago palm1 sugar- cane1 maize1 jute1 and various vegetable fibres1 fruits and rich grasses--and my conclusion1 after weighing all the considerations involved1 was1 that it was my duty to take formal possession of our discoveries in the name of ,her ,majesty4 ,such a course secured a postponement of occupation by any ,power till our ,government could consider its own interests1 and whilst the acquisition of these islands might commend itself1 and my act result in annexation on the one hand1 it might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity1 by a neglect to confirm it4 ,accordingly1 a cocoanut tree was transformed into a flagstaff1 the ,british flag was run up1 and duly saluted with cheers and volleys1 and a picture of the proceeding adorns the captain's book as frontispiece4 ,ever since that time events have tended in the direction of bringing ,new ,guinea into closer relations with ,england4 ,on the one hand1 there has been the conviction that if we do not annex it some other country will1 and thus threaten ,australia4 ,then many ,australians have looked upon ,new ,guinea as a possible paradise for colonists1 and have been eager to establish themselves securely upon its soil4 ,the attempts in this direction have produced little but disaster to all concerned4 ,on the other hand1 missionaries feel that there is much to be said on the same side4 ,perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more weight than that of ,mr4 ,chalmers4 ,we give his views1 as he expressed them before the protectorate was proclaimed4 ,this question of the annexation of ,new ,guinea is still creating a good deal of interest1 and although at present the ,imperial ,government1 through ,lord ,derby1 has given its decision against annexation1 yet the whole matter must1 ,i have no doubt1 be reconsidered1 and the island be eventually annexed4 ,it is to be hoped the country is not to become part of the ,australian colonies--a labour land1 and a land where loose money in the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and make enormous fortunes1 sacrificing the natives and everything else4 ,if the ,imperial ,government is afraid of the expense1 ,i think that can easily be avoided4 ,annex ,new ,guinea1 and save it from another power1 who might harass our ,australian colonies2 administer it for the natives1 and the whole machinery of government can be maintained by ,new ,guinea1 and allow a large overplus4 ,we have all the experience of the ,dutch in ,java2 ,i say1 accept and improve4 ,it will be said that1 as a nation1 ,britain has never tried to govern commercially1 or has not yet made money out of her governing2 and why should she now8 ,she does not want ,new ,guinea4 ,why should she go to the expense of governing8 ,her colonies may be unsafe with a country of splendid harbours so near in the hands of a foreign power1 and the people of that country need a strong1 friendly1 and just power over them1 to save them from themselves and from the white man--whose gods are gold and land1 and to whom the black man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon as possible4 ,let ,britain for these reasons annex1 and from the day of annexation ,new ,guinea will pay all her own expenses2 the expenses of the first three years to be paid with compound interest at the end of that period4 ,let us begin by recognizing all native rights1 and letting it be distinctly understood that we govern for the native races1 not the white men1 that we are determined to civilize and raise to a higher level of humanity those whom we govern1 that our aim will be to do all to defend them and save them from extermination by just humanitarian laws--not the laws of the ,british nation--but the laws suited for them4 ,it will not take long for the natives to learn that not only are we great and powerful1 but we are just and merciful1 and we seek their good4 ,that established1 ,i would suggest appointing officers in every district1 whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief1 and see that every native attended to plantations4 ,a native planting tea1 sugar1 coffee1 maize1 cinchona1 etc41 to be allowed a bounty1 and when returns arrived to be allowed so much per pound sterling4 ,all these things to be superintended by the said officer4 ,traders would soon swarm1 but no one should be allowed to trade with natives directly1 but only through the ,government4 ,all unoccupied land to belong to the ,government1 and to be leased to those wishing land4 ,no native should be allowed to part with land1 and if desirous to sell1 then only to the ,government1 who would allow him a reasonable price4 ,every land transaction to be made through ,government2 no land to be sold1 only leased4 ,the land revenue will be immense1 and after paying all expenses1 will leave much for improvements and the education of the people4 ,stringent laws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation of arms and spirits will be a true safeguard for the natives4 ,as a nation1 let ,britain1 in the zenith of her power and greatness1 think kindly of the native races1 and now for once in her history rule this great island for right and righteousness1 in justice and mercy1 and not for self and pelf in unrighteousness1 blood1 and falsehood4 ,it is to be hoped that future generations of ,new ,guinea natives will not rise up to condemn her1 as the ,new ,zealanders have done1 and to claim their ancient rights with tears now unheeded4 ,i can see along the vista of the future1 truth and righteousness in ,britain's hands1 and the inhabitants of ,new ,guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule2 if otherwise1 ,god help the ,british meanness1 for they will rise to pronounce a curse on her for ever6 ,in #ahhc1 the ,queensland ,government did formally annex their huge neighbour2 but this act was subsequently repudiated by the ,home ,government4 ,towards the end of #ahhd1 it was decided to announce a formal protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of ,new ,guinea4 ,boevagi4 ,chief of ,port ,moresby3 #ai4;jpg ,the official ceremony took place on ,nov4 #fth1 #ahhd1 at ,port ,moresby4 ,five ships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence1 and astonished the natives by their salutes4 ,about fifty chiefs were brought on board the ,commodore's ship1 the ,nelson1 by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,g4 ,lawes4 ,to ,boevagi1 the chief of the ,port ,moresby tribe1 was entrusted the responsibility of upholding the authority and dignity of ,england in the island4 ,he was presented with an ebony stick1 into the top of which had been let a florin1 with the ,queen's head uppermost4 ,mr4 ,lawes conveyed to ,boevagi the meaning of the ,commodore's words when he gave the stick4 ,i present you with this stick1 which is to be an emblem of your authority2 and all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here are to look to the holder of this stick4 ,boevagi1 this stick represents the ,queen of ,england1 and if at any time any of the people of these tribes have any grievance or anything to say1 they are1 through the holder of this stick1 to make it known to the ,queen's officers1 in order that it may be inquired into4 ,the formal protectorate was announced in the following terms3-- ,to all to whom these presents shall come1 greeting3--,whereas it has become essential for the lives and properties of the native inhabitants of ,new ,guinea1 and for the purpose of preventing the occupation of portions of that country by persons whose proceedings1 unsanctioned by any lawful authority1 might tend to injustice1 strife1 and bloodshed1 and who1 under the pretence of legitimate trade and intercourse1 might endanger the liberties and possess themselves of the lands of such native inhabitants1 that a ,british protectorate should be established over a certain portion of such country and the islands adjacent thereto2 and whereas ,her ,majesty1 having taken into her gracious consideration the urgent necessity of her protection to such inhabitants1 has directed me to proclaim such protection in a formal manner at this place1--now ,i1 ,james ,elphinstone ,erskine1 ,captain in the ,royal ,navy and ,commodore of the ,australian ,station1 one of ,her ,majesty's naval aides-de-camp1 do hereby1 in the name of ,her ,most ,gracious ,majesty1 declare and proclaim the establishment of such protectorate over such portions of the coast and the adjacent islands as is more particularly described in the schedule hereunto annexed2 and ,i hereby proclaim and declare that no acquisition of land1 whensoever or howsoever acquired1 within the limits of the protectorate hereby established will be recognized by ,her ,majesty2 and ,i do hereby1 on behalf of ,her ,majesty1 command and enjoin all persons whom it may concern to take notice of this proclamation4 ,,schedule4 ,all that portion of the southern shores of ,new ,guinea commencing from the boundary of that portion of the country claimed by the ,government of the ,netherlands on the #adast meridian of east longitude to ,east ,cape1 with all the islands adjacent thereto south of ,east ,cape to ,kosmann ,island inclusive1 together with the islands in the ,goschen ,straits4 ,given on board ,her ,majesty's ship ,nelson1 at the harbour of ,port ,moresby1 on the #fth day of ,november1 #ahhd4 ,the die has thus been cast4 ,already rumours that seem to have some foundation are in the air that the protectorate is soon to become annexation4 ,it should be the aim of all to see that1 by the force of public opinion1 the last portion of the heathen world that has come under ,english protection shall have1 as the years pass1 many and solid reasons for thanking ,god that ,he has so guided its destinies as to unite them to our great ,empire4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,early ,,experiences4 ,somerset--,murray ,island--,darnley ,island--,boera--,moresby--,trip inland--,sunday at ,port ,moresby--,native funeral ceremonies--,tupuselei--,round ,head--,native salutations--,kerepunu--,teste ,island--,hoop-iron as an article of commerce--,two teachers landed--,a tabooed place--,moresby and ,basilisk ,islands--,south ,cape--,house building--,difficulties with the natives--,an anxious moment--,thefts--,dancing and cooking--,visit to a native village--,native shot on the ,mayri--,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,chalmers in danger--,arrival of the ,ellengowan4 ,towards the close of #ahgg1 ,mr4 ,chalmers and ,mr4 ,mc,farlane visited ,new ,guinea for the purpose of exploring the coast1 landing native teachers at suitable spots1 and thus opening the way for future missionary effort4 ,what follows is given in ,mr4 ,chalmers's words3-- ,we left ,sydney by the ,dutch steamer ,william ,m',kinnon1 on ,september #bjth1 #ahgg1 for ,somerset4 ,the sail inside the ,barrier ,reef is most enjoyable4 ,the numerous islands passed1 and the varied coast scenery make the voyage a very pleasant one--especially with such men as our captain and mates4 ,on ,sunday1 the #cjth1 we reached ,somerset1 where we were met by the ,bertha1 with ,mr4 ,mc,farlane on board of her4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane was soon on board of the steamer to welcome us1 and remained with us till the evening4 ,there was very little of the ,sabbath observed that day--all was bustle and confusion4 ,quite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at ,somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer1 and the masters of these boats were soon on and around the steamer receiving their goods4 ,on ,tuesday1 ,october #bnd1 we left ,somerset in the ,bertha1 for ,murray ,island1 anchoring that night off ,albany4 ,on ,wednesday night1 we anchored off a sandbank1 and on ,thursday1 off a miserable-looking island1 called ,village ,island4 ,on ,friday1 we came to ,york ,island1 where we went ashore and saw only four natives--one man and three boys4 ,at eleven p4m4 on ,saturday1 we anchored at ,darnley ,island4 ,this is a fine island1 and more suitable for vessels and landing goods than ,murray1 but supposed to be not so healthy4 ,the island is about five hundred feet in height1 in some parts thickly wooded1 in others bare4 ,it was here the natives cut off a boat's crew about thirty years ago1 for which they suffered--the captain landing with part of his crew1 well-armed1 killing many and chasing them right round the island4 ,they never again attempted anything of the kind4 ,as a native of the island expressed himself on the subject3--,white fellow1 he too much make fright1 man he all run away1 no want see white fellow gun no more4 ,in #ahga1 the first teachers were landed here4 ,the ,sunday morning was fine1 and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon on shore4 ,we landed after breakfast1 and walked through what must be in wet weather a deep swamp1 to the mission house on the hill4 ,gucheng1 the ,loyalty islander1 who is teacher here1 looks a good determined fellow4 ,the people seem to live not far from the mission house1 so did not take long to assemble4 ,there were about eighty at the service1 including a few ,australians employed by one of the white men on the island to fish for trepang4 ,the ,darnley islanders appear a much more interesting people than the ,australians4 ,many of those present at the service were clothed4 ,they sang very well indeed such hymns as ,come to ,jesus1 ,canaan1 bright ,canaan1 which1 with some others1 have been translated into their language4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane addressed them1 through the teacher1 and the people seemed to attend to what was said4 ,because of a strong head wind1 we could not leave the next day1 so ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and ,i returned to the shore4 ,we found the children collected in ,gucheng's house1 learning to write the letters on slates4 ,there were very few girls present--indeed1 there are not many girls on the island1 so many have been destroyed by their fathers at birth4 ,we strolled about and visited the large cocoanut plantation belonging to the society4 ,on our return we found the teacher and a number of natives collected near the beach4 ,they had just buried a man who had died the night before--so ,christian burial has begun4 ,formerly1 the body would have been hung up and tapped1 to allow the juices to run out1 which would have been drunk by the friends4 ,we returned to the mission house for dinner4 ,i was glad to find so many boys living with ,gucheng4 ,they were bright1 happy little fellows1 romping about1 enjoying themselves4 ,we did not get away from ,darnley ,island till the morning of ,wednesday1 the #ajth4 ,the navigation between ,darnley and ,murray ,islands is difficult1 arising from various reefs and currents4 ,although only twenty- seven miles separate the two1 it was ,friday night before we anchored at ,murray ,island4 ,we went ashore the same night4 ,on ,saturday1 we climbed to the highest point of the island1 seven hundred feet high4 ,there seems to be no lack of food1 chiefly grown inland4 ,from the long drought1 the island presented in many places a parched look1 and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which we had been so long accustomed on ,rarotonga4 ,at the forenoon meeting on ,sunday there were nearly two hundred present4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane preached4 ,a few had a little clothing on them2 some seemed attentive1 but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit time for relating the week's news1 or of commenting on the strangers present4 ,the ,sabbath is observed by church attendance and a cessation from work4 ,there is not much thieving on the island2 they are an indolent people4 ,the school is well attended by old and young1 and ,josiah1 the teacher1 has quite a number of children living with him4 ,they sing very well4 ,several of the old men here wear wigs4 ,it seems when grey hairs appear they are carefully pulled out2 as time moves on they increase so fast that they would require to shave the head often1 so1 to cover their shame1 they take to wigs1 which represent them as having long1 flowing1 curly hair1 as in youth4 ,wigs would not astonish the ,murray islanders1 as ,mr4 ,nott's did the ,tahitians after his return from ,england4 ,they soon spread the news round the island that their missionary had had his head newly thatched1 and looked a young man again4 ,on ,monday1 the teachers' goods and mission supplies were put on board the ,bertha4 ,on ,tuesday afternoon1 after everything was on board1 a farewell service was held with the teachers1 and early on ,wednesday morning we left ,murray ,island for ,new ,guinea4 ,on ,friday1 we made ,new ,guinea1 off ,yule ,island1 and about sunset on ,october #bast we anchored about five miles off ,boera4 ,near to the place where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove4 ,we could see ,lealea1 where there has been so much sickness4 ,it presented the same low1 swampy1 unhealthy appearance4 ,soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside with ,mr4 ,lawes and ,piri on board4 ,mr4 ,lawes did not seem so strong as ,i remembered him eleven years ago1 yet he looked better than ,i had expected to see him4 ,he has suffered greatly from the climate4 ,piri is a strong1 hearty fellow2 the climate seems to have had little effect on him4 ,they remained some time on board1 when they went ashore in the vessel's boat--,piri taking the teachers and their wives ashore with him4 ,the wind was ahead1 and too strong for the canoe1 so the men who came off in her with ,mr4 ,lawes and ,piri remained on board the ,bertha till midnight1 when the wind abated4 ,when the boat was leaving1 they shouted to ,mr4 ,lawes to tell us not to be afraid1 as they would not steal anything4 ,they remained quietly on board till two a4m4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and ,i went ashore in the morning4 ,the country looked bare and not at all inviting4 ,this is now the most western mission station on ,new ,guinea proper4 ,piri has a very comfortable house1 with a plantation near to it4 ,the chapel1 built principally by himself and wife1 is small1 but comfortable1 and well suited for the climate4 ,the children meet in it for school4 ,the village has a very dirty1 tumbledown appearance4 ,the widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their arrival in the mission were living with ,piri4 ,we took them on board1 with their things1 to accompany us to the new mission4 ,i returned ashore with the boat to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore1 and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her1 so1 after pulling for some time1 we up sail and away for ,port ,moresby4 ,piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe4 ,we saw several dugongs on the way1 which some esteem extra good food4 ,tom1 one of the ,loyalty ,island teachers1 who was in the boat with us1 expressed their edible qualities thus3 ,you know1 sir1 pig1 he good4 ,yes1 ,tom1 it is very good4 ,ah1 he no good2 dugong1 he much good4 ,it must be good when a native pronounces it to be better than pork4 ,we arrived at ,port ,moresby about six o'clock4 ,i cannot say ,i was much charmed with the place1 it had such a burnt-up1 barren appearance4 ,close to the village is a mangrove swamp1 and the whole bay is enclosed with high hills4 ,at the back of the mission premises1 and close to them1 is a large swampy place1 which in wet weather is full of water4 ,there can be no doubt about ,port ,moresby being a very unhealthy place4 ,we went ashore for breakfast next day1 and in the afternoon visited the school2 about forty children were present--an unusually large number4 ,many of the children know the alphabet1 and a few can spell words of two or three letters4 ,in walking through the village in the afternoon we saw the women making their crockery pots1 preparing for the men's return from the ,gulf1 the next north-west season1 with large quantities of sago4 ,we visited the graves of the teachers1 which are kept in good order4 ,they are all enclosed by a good fence4 ,within the same enclosure is one little grave that will bind ,new ,guinea close to the hearts of ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,lawes4 ,over them all may be written--,for ,christ's sake4 ,in returning from the graves1 we met a man in mourning1 whose wife had been killed in a canoe by natives about ,round ,head4 ,he and his friends had resolved to retaliate1 but through the influence of the teachers they did not do so4 ,the teachers from the villages to the east of ,port ,moresby came in this afternoon1 looking well and hearty4 ,some of them have suffered a good deal from fever and ague1 but are now becoming acclimatized4 ,the natives of the various villages are not now afraid of one another1 but accompany their teachers from place to place4 ,men1 women1 and children smoke1 and will do anything for tobacco4 ,the best present you can give them is tobacco2 it is the one thing for which they beg4 ,as it was decided that the vessel should not leave before ,tuesday of the next week1 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and ,i took a trip inland4 ,i was anxious to see for myself if anything could be done for the natives living in the mountains4 ,mr4 ,goldie1 a naturalist1 with his party1 was about ten miles inland4 ,he himself had been at ,port ,moresby for some days1 and1 on hearing of our plans1 he joined us1 and we proceeded first to his camp4 ,we left ,port ,moresby about half-past five on ,thursday morning1 and crossed the low ground at the back of the mission house4 ,we ascended the hill which runs all along the coast in this district at a part about three hundred feet high1 and then descended into a great plain4 ,at present the plain is dry and hard1 from the long drought1 and very little of anything green is to be seen4 ,there are a few small gum-trees1 and great herds of wallabies were jumping about4 ,the greater part of this plain is under water in the wet seasons4 ,we walked about ten miles in an east-north-east direction1 keeping the ,astrolabe ,range to our right1 when we came to the camp1 close by a large river--the ,laroki4 ,being afraid of alligators1 we preferred having water poured over us to bathing in the river4 ,our party was a tolerably large one--,ruatoka 7the ,port ,moresby teacher71 some ,port ,moresby natives1 and four ,loyalty ,island teachers1 on their way to ,east ,cape4 ,we did not see a strange native all the way4 ,we had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the river side1 and rested until three p4m41 when we started for another part of the river about seven miles off1 in a south-east direction4 ,mr4 ,goldie also shifted his camp4 ,after sunset we reached the point where the river was to be crossed1 and there we meant to remain for the night4 ,we had a bath1 then supper1 and evening prayers2 after which we slung our hammocks to the trees1 in which we rested well4 ,it was a strangely weird- looking sight1 and the noises were of a strange kind--wallabies leaping past1 and strange birds overhead4 ,mr4 ,goldie's ,mare men joined with their countrymen1 the teachers1 in singing some of ,sankey's hymns in ,english4 ,soon sleep came1 and all seemed quiet4 ,at three a4m4 of the #bfth we struck camp1 and after morning prayers we began to cross the river1 which was not over four feet in the deepest part4 ,it was here ,mr4 ,lawes crossed when he first visited the inland tribes2 so now1 led by ,ruatoka1 we were on his track4 ,the moon was often hidden by dark clouds1 so we had some difficulty in keeping to the path4 ,we pressed on1 as we were anxious to get to a deserted village which ,mr4 ,goldie knew to breakfast4 ,we reached the village about six1 and after we had partaken of breakfast we set off for the mountains4 ,when we had gone about four miles the road became more uneven4 ,wallabies were not to be seen1 and soon we were in a valley close by the river1 which we followed for a long way1 and then began to ascend4 ,we climbed it under a burning sun1 ,ruatoka calling out1 ,tepiake1 tepiake1 tepiake 7,friends1 friends1 friends74 ,armed natives soon appeared on the ridge1 shouting1 ,misi ,lao1 ,misi ,lao4 ,ruatoka called back1 ,misi ,lao 7,mr4 ,lawes71 and all was right--spears were put away and they came to meet us1 escorting us to a sort of reception-room1 where we all squatted1 glad to get in the shade from the sun4 ,we were now about #aajj feet above the sea level4 ,we were surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree-tops they could find on the top of the ridge4 ,one of the teachers remarked1 ,queer fellows these2 not only do they live on the mountain tops1 but they must select the highest trees they can find for their houses4 ,we were very soon friends2 they seemed at ease1 some smoking tobacco1 others chewing betel-nuts4 ,i changed my shirt1 and when those near me saw my white skin they raised a shout that soon brought the others round4 ,bartering soon began--taro1 sugar-cane1 sweet yams1 and water were got in exchange for tobacco1 beads1 and cloth4 ,after resting about two hours1 we proceeded to the next village1 five miles further along the ridge4 ,some of our party were too tired to accompany us2 they remained where we expected to camp for the night4 ,after walking some miles1 we came unexpectedly on some natives4 ,as soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears1 and seemed determined to dispute our way4 ,by a number of signs--touching our chins with our right hands1 etc4--they understood we were not foes1 so they soon became friendly4 ,they had their faces blackened with soot1 plumbago1 and gum1 and then sprinkled over with white2 their mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut4 ,on our leaving them1 they shouted on to the next village4 ,an old man lay outside on the platform of the next house we came to2 he looked terribly frightened as we approached him1 but as1 instead of injuring him1 we gave him a present1 he soon rallied1 and got us water to drink4 ,by-and-by a few gathered round4 ,we understood them to say the most of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies4 ,one young woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts1 as a token of mourning--an improvement on their ordinary attire1 which is simply a short grass petticoat--the men nil4 ,after a short stay1 we returned to where we thought of camping for the night1 but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited in the forenoon4 ,we slung our hammocks in the reception room1 had supper1 and turned in for the night4 ,it felt bleak and cold1 and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful1 even in our sleep1 lest we should fall out and over4 ,on coming across the highest peak in the afternoon1 we had a magnificent view of ,mount ,owen ,stanley1 with his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains by which he is surrounded4 ,it must have been about thirty miles off1 and1 ,i should think1 impossible to reach from where we were4 ,we were entirely surrounded by mountains3 mountains north1 east1 south1 and west--above us and below us4 ,i question if it will ever be a country worth settling in4 ,we were anxious to spend the ,sabbath at ,port ,moresby1 so1 leaving the most of our party1 who were too tired to come with us1 to rest till ,monday1 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane1 ,ruatoka1 and ,i set off on our return very early on ,saturday morning1 and had strangely difficult work in getting down the mountain side and along the river4 ,fireflies danced all round in hundreds1 and we awakened many strange birds before their time1 which gave forth a note or two1 only to sleep again4 ,before daylight1 we were at ,mr4 ,goldie's camp1 where we had breakfast1 and hurried on for the river4 ,we rested a short time there1 and then away over plains to ,port ,moresby1 which we reached about midday1 tired indeed and very footsore4 ,oh1 that shoemakers had only to wear the boots they send to missionaries6 ,early on ,sunday morning1 a great many natives went out with their spears1 nets1 and dogs1 to hunt wallabies4 ,a goodly number attended the forenoon service1 when ,mr4 ,lawes preached4 ,a good many strangers were present from an inland village on the ,astrolabe side4 ,there is not yet much observance of the ,sabbath4 ,poi1 one of the chief men of the place1 is very friendly3 he kept quite a party of his inland friends from hunting1 and brought them to the services4 ,mr4 ,lawes preached again in the afternoon4 ,as we went to church in the afternoon the hunters were returning3 they had evidently had a successful day's hunting4 ,during the day a canoe came in from ,hula1 laden with old cocoanuts1 which were traded for pottery4 ,in the evening1 an old sorceress died1 and great was the wailing over her body4 ,she was buried on the ,monday morning1 just opposite the house in which she had lived4 ,a grave was dug two feet deep1 and spread over with mats1 on which the corpse was laid4 ,her husband lay on the body1 in the grave1 for some time1 and1 after some talking to the departed spirit1 got up1 and lay down by the side of the grave1 covered with a mat4 ,about midday1 the grave was covered over with the earth1 and friends sat on it weeping4 ,the relatives of the dead put on mourning by blackening their bodies all over1 and besmearing them with ashes4 ,on the #cast1 the ,bertha left for ,kerepunu4 ,as ,i was anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast between ,port ,moresby and ,kerepunu1 ,i remained1 to accompany ,mr4 ,lawes in the small schooner ,mayri4 ,we left on the following day1 and sailed down the coast inside the reef4 ,we arrived at ,tupuselei about midday4 ,there were two teachers here1 and ,mr4 ,lawes having decided to remove one1 we got him on board1 and sailed for ,kaili4 ,the villages of ,tupuselei and ,kaili are quite in the sea4 ,i fear they are very unhealthy--mangroves and low swampy ground abound4 ,the ,astrolabe ,range is not far from the shore we were sailing along all day4 ,there is a fine bold coast line1 with many bays4 ,in the early morning1 our small vessel of only seven tons was crowded with natives4 ,we left the vessel about nine a4m4 for a walk inland1 accompanied by a number of natives1 who all went to their houses for their arms before they would leave their village4 ,they have no faith whatever in one another4 ,we passed through a large swamp covered with mangroves--then into a dense tropical bush1 passing through an extensive grove of sago palms and good-sized mango trees4 ,the mangoes were small--about the size of a plum--and very sweet4 ,at some distance inland ,i took up a peculiar-looking seed2 one of the natives1 thinking ,i was going to eat it1 very earnestly urged me to throw it away1 and with signs gave me to understand that if ,i ate it ,i should swell out to an enormous size1 and die4 ,we walked about seven miles through bush1 and then began the ascent of one of the spurs of the ,astrolabe4 ,on nearing the inland village for which we were bound1 the natives became somewhat afraid1 and the leader stopped1 and1 turning to ,mr4 ,lawes1 asked him if he would indeed not kill any of the people4 ,he was assured all was right1 and then he moved on a few paces1 to stop again1 and re-inquire if all was right4 ,when reassured1 we all went on1 not a word spoken by any one1 and so in silence we entered the village4 ,when we were observed1 spears began rattling in the houses2 but our party shouted1 ,maino1 maino 7,peace1 peace71 ,misi ,lao1 ,misi ,lao4 ,the women escaped through the trap-doors in the floors of their houses1 and away down the side of the hill into the bush4 ,we reached the chief's house1 and there remained4 ,the people soon regained confidence1 and came round us1 wondering greatly at the first white men they had ever seen in their village4 ,the women returned from their flight1 and began to cook food1 which1 when ready1 they brought to us1 and of which we all heartily partook4 ,we gave them presents1 and they would not suffer us to depart till they had brought us a return present of uncooked food4 ,they are a fine1 healthy-looking people1 lighter than those on the coast4 ,many were in deep mourning1 and frightfully besmeared4 ,there are a number of villages close by1 on the various ridges4 ,we returned by a different way1 following the bed of what must be in the rainy season a large river4 ,the banks were in many places from eight to nine feet high4 ,on the following morning1 ,november #crd1 we weighed anchor and set sail1 passing ,kapakapa1 a double village in the sea4 ,the houses are large and well built4 ,there are numerous villages on the hills at the back of it1 and not too far away to be visited4 ,we anchored off ,round ,head1 which does not1 as represented on the charts1 rise boldly from the sea4 ,there is a plain between two and three miles broad between the sea and the hill called ,round ,head4 ,there are many villages on the hills along this part of the coast4 ,we anchored close to the shore4 ,a number of natives were on the beach1 but could not be induced to visit us on board4 ,we went ashore to them after dinner4 ,they knew ,mr4 ,lawes by name only1 and became more easy when he assured them that he was really and truly ,misi ,lao4 ,they professed friendship by calling out1 ,maino1 maino1 catching hold of their noses1 and pointing to their stomachs4 ,after a little time1 two ventured to accompany ,mr4 ,lawes on board1 and received presents4 ,i remained ashore astonishing others by striking matches1 and showing off my arms and chest4 ,the women were so frightened that they all kept at a respectful distance4 ,these are the natives from an inland village that killed a ,port ,moresby native about the beginning of the year4 ,when those who accompanied ,mr4 ,lawes on board the ,mayri returned to the shore1 they were instantly surrounded by their friends1 who seized the presents and made off4 ,they had received fish1 biscuit1 and taro4 ,the taro and fish were smelt all over1 and carefully examined before eaten4 ,the biscuit was wrapped up again in the paper4 ,on ,sunday1 the #dth1 we were beating down through innumerable reefs1 and at eight p4m4 we anchored about three miles from ,hula4 ,the following morning we went up to the village1 the ,mayri anchoring close by the houses4 ,the country about here looks fine and green1 a very striking contrast to that around ,port ,moresby4 ,the further east we get from ,port ,moresby1 the finer the country looks4 ,the people are also superior--finer- made men and women1 and really pretty boys and girls--more1 altogether1 like our eastern ,south ,sea ,islanders4 ,the married women spoil their looks by keeping their heads shaved4 ,they seem fond of their children3 men and women nurse them4 ,they were busy preparing their large canoes to visit ,port ,moresby1 on the return of the ,port ,moresby canoes from the west with sago4 ,about three in the afternoon1 an old woman made her appearance at the door of the mission house1 bawling out1 ,well1 what liars these ,hula people are2 some of them were inland this morning1 and the chief asked them if ,misi ,lao had come1 and they said no4 ,the chief1 who saw the vessel from the hill top where his village is1 thought it strange the vessel should be there without ,misi ,lao1 so sent this woman to learn the truth4 ,she received a present for herself and the chief1 and went away quite happy4 ,next morning1 ,november #fth1 we left ,hula with a fair wind1 and were anchored close to ,kerepunu by nine o'clock4 ,the ,bertha was anchored fully two miles off4 ,kerepunu is a magnificent place1 and its people are very fine-looking4 ,it is one large town of seven districts1 with fine houses1 all arranged in streets1 crotons and other plants growing about1 and cockatoos perching in front of nearly every house4 ,one part of the population plant1 another fish1 and the planters buy the fish with their produce4 ,men1 women1 and children are all workers2 they go to their plantations in the morning and return to their homes in the evening1 only sick ones remaining at home2 thus accounting for the number of scrofulous people we saw going about when we first landed4 ,they have a rule1 to which they strictly adhere all the year round1 of working for two days and resting the third4 ,the ,bertha arrived here on ,friday evening4 ,mrs4 ,chalmers was at the forenoon service on the ,sunday1 and found there a large congregation4 ,the service was held on the platform of one of the largest houses4 ,anedered preached1 a number sitting on the platform1 others in the house1 others on the ground all round1 and many at the doors of their own houses1 where they could hear all that was said4 ,mr4 ,lawes decided to remain at ,kerepunu to revise for the press a small book ,anedered has been preparing1 and to follow us to ,teste ,island in the ,ellengowan4 ,we left ,kerepunu on the morning of ,november #hth1 the ,mayri leaving at the same time1 to sail down inside the surf4 ,we went right out to sea1 so as to beat down1 had fine weather1 and were off ,teste ,island by the #afth4 ,after dinner we took the boat1 and with the captain went in on the east side of the island through the reef1 to sound and find anchorage4 ,when we reached the lagoon1 a catamaran with three natives on it came off to us4 ,we asked for ,koitan1 the chief1 which at once gave them confidence in us1 so that they came alongside1 one getting into the boat4 ,he expressed his friendship to us in the usual way1 viz4 by touching his nose and stomach1 and1 being very much excited1 seized hold of ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and rubbed noses with him1 doing the same to me4 ,he received a present of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid1 which greatly pleased him4 ,we found the water was deep enough over the reef for the vessel1 and good anchorage inside4 ,we went on to the village1 to see about the supply of water4 ,the people were very friendly1 and crowded round us4 ,we were led up to a platform in front of one of their large houses1 and there seated and regaled with cocoanuts4 ,the natives here are much darker than are those at ,kerepunu2 most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking skin disease1 which causes the skin to peel off in scales4 ,in their conversation with one another ,i recognized several ,polynesian words4 ,the water is obtained by digging in the sand1 and is very brackish4 ,we came to anchor next morning1 and soon were surrounded with canoes1 and our deck swarmed with natives trading their curios1 yams1 cocoanuts1 and fish for beads and hoop-iron4 ,many were swearing friendship1 and exchanging names with us1 in hopes of getting hoop-iron4 ,there is as great a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at ,port ,moresby4 ,they told us they disliked fighting1 but delighted in the dance1 betel-nut1 and sleep4 ,the majority have jet black teeth1 which they consider very beautiful1 and all have their noses and ears pierced1 with various sorts of nose and ear rings1 chiefly made from shell1 inserted4 ,a crown piece could easily be put through the lobe of their ears4 ,we went ashore in the afternoon4 ,there are three villages1 all close to one another4 ,their houses are built on poles1 and are shaped like a canoe turned bottom upwards1 others like one in the water4 ,they ornament their houses on the outside with cocoanuts and shells4 ,the nabobs of the place had skulls on the posts of their houses1 which they said belonged to the enemies they had killed and eaten4 ,one skull was very much fractured2 they told us it was done with a stone axe1 and showed us how they used these weapons4 ,we tried to explain to them that no one was to come to the vessel the next day1 as it was a sacred day4 ,in the early morning1 some canoes came off to trade1 but we sent them ashore2 a few more followed about breakfast-time1 which were also sent ashore4 ,in the afternoon1 our old friend of the preceding day came off1 with his wife and two sons4 ,he called out that he did not wish to come on board1 but that he had brought some cooked food4 ,we accepted his present1 and he remained with his family in his canoe alongside the vessel for some time1 and then went quietly ashore4 ,we had three services on board1 one in the forenoon in ,lifuan1 in the afternoon in ,rarotongan1 and in the evening in ,english4 ,as ,teste ,island is about twenty miles from the mainland1 with a dead beat to it1 ,i decided to seek for a position more accessible to ,new ,guinea1 and as ,i had not a teacher to spare for this little island1 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane decided to leave two of the ,loyalty ,island teachers here4 ,it is fertile1 and appears healthy1 is two and a half miles long1 and half a mile broad4 ,a ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east-north-east to west-south-west4 ,the natives have some fine plantations on the north side1 and on the south and east sides they have yam plantations to the very tops of the hills4 ,there are plantations and fruit-trees all round the island4 ,on ,monday1 ,i accompanied ,mr4 ,mc,farlane when he went ashore to make arrangements to land his teachers and secure a house for them4 ,the people seemed pleased that some of our party would remain with them4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane at once chose a house on a point of land a good way from our landing-place1 and at the end of the most distant village4 ,the owner was willing to give up the house until the teachers could build one for themselves1 so it was at once taken and paid for4 ,we came along to our old friend's place near the landing1 when we were told that the house taken was a very bad one4 ,in the first place1 the position was unhealthy2 in the second1 that was the point where their enemies from ,basilaki 7,moresby ,island7 always landed when they came to fight1 and the people could not protect the teachers if so far off when their foes came4 ,all agreed in this1 and a fine new house which had never been occupied was offered and taken1 the same price being paid for it as for the other one4 ,this house is close to the landing-place1 and in the midst of the people4 ,the owner of the first house offered to return the things1 but we thought it would not be ruinous to let him keep them1 their ,english value being about ten shillings4 ,we passed a tabooed place1 or rather would have done so had we not been forced to take a circuitous path to the bush4 ,none of the natives spoke as we passed the place1 nor till we were clear of it2 they made signs also to us to be silent4 ,a woman had died there lately1 and the friends were still mourning4 ,there had been no dancing in the settlement since the death1 nor would there be any for some days to come4 ,i think women are more respected here than they are in some other heathen lands4 ,they seem to keep fast hold of their own possessions4 ,a man stole an ornament belonging to his wife1 and sold it for hoop-iron on board the ,bertha4 ,when he went ashore he was met on the beach by his spouse1 who had in the meantime missed her trinket2 she assailed him with tongue1 stick1 and stone1 and demanded the hoop-iron4 ,the teachers were landed in the afternoon1 and were well received4 ,the natives all promised to care for them1 and treat them kindly4 ,there are about two hundred and fifty natives on the island4 ,no ,ellengowan appearing1 we determined to leave this on ,wednesday1 the #bast1 and to proceed to ,moresby ,island4 ,next morning we left1 but1 owing to light winds1 we did not anchor in ,hoop-,iron ,bay1 off ,moresby ,island1 till the morning of the #bbnd4 ,the anchorage here is in an open roadstead4 ,it is a very fine island--the vegetation from the water's edge right up to the mountain tops4 ,plantations are to be seen all round4 ,the people live in small detached companies1 and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking a people as are the ,teste islanders4 ,this is the great ,basilaki1 and the natives are apparently the deadly foes of all the islanders round4 ,before we anchored1 we were surrounded by catamarans 7three small logs lashed together7 and canoes--spears in them all4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane decided1 as soon as we came to the island1 that he would not land his teachers here2 and ,i did not consider it a suitable place as a head station for ,new ,guinea4 ,we left ,moresby ,island at six a4m4 on the #bcrd inst41 and beat through ,fortescue ,straits1 between ,moresby and ,basilisk ,islands4 ,the scenery was grand--everything looked so fresh and green1 very different from the deathlike appearance of ,port ,moresby and vicinity4 ,the four teachers were close behind us1 in their large whale- boat1 with part of their things4 ,on getting out of the ,straits1 we saw ,east ,cape2 but1 as there was no anchorage there1 we made for ,killerton ,island1 about ten miles from the ,cape4 ,the wind being very light1 it was eight p4m4 before we anchored3 the boat got up an hour after us4 ,there was apparently great excitement ashore2 lights were moving about in all directions1 but none came to us4 ,in the morning1 a catamaran with two boys ventured alongside of us2 they got a present1 and went away shouting4 ,soon we were surrounded with catamarans and canoes1 with three or four natives in each4 ,they had no spears with them1 nor did they kill a dog on our quarter-deck1 as they did on that of the ,basilisk4 ,they appeared quite friendly1 and free from shyness4 ,they brought their curios to barter for beads1 red cloth1 and the much-valued hoop-iron4 ,the whole country looked productive and beautiful4 ,after breakfast1 we went ashore1 and were led through swampy ground to see the water4 ,on our return to the shore1 we went in search of a position for the mission settlement1 but could not get one far enough away from the swamp1 so we took the boat and sailed a mile or two nearer the ,cape1 where we found an excellent position near a river4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane obtained a fine new house for the teachers1 in which they are to remain till they get a house built4 ,we took all the teachers' goods ashore1 which the natives helped to carry to the house4 ,one man1 who considered himself well dressed1 kept near us all day4 ,he had a pair of trousers1 minus a leg3 he fastened the body of the trousers round his head1 and let the leg fall gracefully down his back4 ,on the following morning1 two large canoes--twenty paddles in each--came in from somewhere about ,milne ,bay4 ,they remained for some time near the shore1 getting all the news they could about us from the shore-folk2 then the leader amongst them stood up and caught his nose1 and pointed to his stomach--we doing the same4 ,the large canoes went ashore1 and the chief came off to us in a small one4 ,we gave him a present1 which greatly pleased him4 ,after breakfast1 we went ashore to hold a service with the teachers4 ,we met under a large tree1 near their house4 ,about six hundred natives were about us1 and all round outside of the crowd were men armed with spears and clubs4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane preached4 ,when the first hymn was being sung1 a number of women and children got up and ran into the bush4 ,the service was short2 at its close we sat down and sang hymns1 which seemed to amuse them greatly4 ,the painted and armed men were not at all pleasant-looking fellows4 ,at two in the morning 7,monday71 we weighed anchor and returned to ,moresby ,island4 ,the wind was very light1 and we had to anchor at the entrance to ,fortescue ,straits4 ,next morning1 we sailed through the ,straits1 and1 on coming out on the opposite side1 we were glad to see the ,bertha beating about there4 ,by noon we were on board the ,bertha1 and off for ,south ,cape1 the ,mayri going to ,teste ,island with a letter1 telling the captain of the ,ellengowan to follow us1 and also to see if the teachers were all right4 ,by evening we were well up to ,south ,cape4 ,the captain did not care to get too near that night1 and stood away till morning4 ,about ten next morning ,i accompanied the captain in the boat1 to sound and look for anchorage1 which we found in twenty-two fathoms1 near ,south-,west ,point4 ,by half-past fire that evening we anchored4 ,the excitement ashore was great1 and before the anchor was really down we were surrounded by canoes4 ,as a people1 they are small and puny1 and much darker than the ,eastern ,polynesians4 ,they were greatly excited over ,pi's baby1 a fine plump little fellow1 seven months old1 who1 beside them1 seemed a white child4 ,indeed1 all they saw greatly astonished them4 ,canoes came off to us very early in the morning4 ,about half-past seven1 when we were ready to go ashore1 there arose great consternation amongst the natives4 ,three large war canoes1 with conch-shells blowing1 appeared off the mainland and paddled across the ,mayri ,straits4 ,soon a large war canoe appeared near the vessel4 ,a great many small canoes from various parts of the mainland were ordered off by those on whose side we were anchored4 ,they had to leave4 ,on their departure a great shout was raised by the victorious party1 and in a short time all returned quietly to their bartering4 ,it seemed that the ,stacy ,islanders wished to keep all the bartering to themselves4 ,they did not wish the rest to obtain hoop-iron or any other foreign wealth4 ,they are at feud with one party on the mainland1 and ,i suppose in their late contests have been victorious1 for they told us with great exultation that they had lately killed and eaten ten of their enemies from the mainland4 ,about nine1 we went ashore near the anchorage4 ,i crossed the island to the village1 but did not feel satisfied as to the position4 ,one of our guides to the village wore1 as an armlet1 the jawbone of a man from the mainland he had killed and eaten2 others strutted about with human bones dangling from their hair1 and about their necks4 ,it is only the village ,tepauri on the mainland with which they are unfriendly4 ,we returned to the boat1 and sailed along the coast4 ,on turning a cape1 we came to a pretty village1 on a well-wooded point4 ,the people were friendly1 and led us to see the water1 of which there is a good supply4 ,this is the spot for which we have been in search as a station for beginning work4 ,we can go anywhere from here1 and are surrounded by villages4 ,the mainland is not more than a gunshot across4 ,god has led us4 ,we made arrangements for a house for the teachers2 then returned to the vessel4 ,in the afternoon1 ,i landed the teachers1 their wives1 and part of their goods--the people helping to carry the stuff to the house4 ,the house in which the teachers are to reside till our own is finished is the largest in the place1 but they can only get the use of one end of it--the owner1 who considers himself the chief man of the place1 requiring the other end for himself and family4 ,the partition between the two ends is only two feet high4 ,skulls1 shells1 and cocoanuts are hung all about the house2 the skulls are those of the enemies he and his people have eaten4 ,inside the house1 hung up on the wall1 is a very large collection of human bones1 bones of animals and of fish4 ,i selected a spot for our house on the point of land nearest the mainland4 ,it is a large sand hill1 and well wooded at the back4 ,we have a good piece of land1 with bread-fruit and other fruit trees on it1 which ,i hope soon to have cleared and planted with food1 for the benefit of the teachers who may be here awaiting their stations1 as well as for the teacher for the place4 ,the frontage is the ,straits1 with the mainland right opposite4 ,there is a fine anchorage close to the house for vessels of any size4 ,early next morning there was great excitement ashore4 ,the large war canoe came off1 with drums beating and men dancing4 ,they came alongside the ,bertha1 and presented us with a small pig and food4 ,then the men came on board and danced4 ,the captain gave them a return present4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and ,i went ashore immediately after breakfast1 and found that the teachers had been kindly treated4 ,we gave some natives a few axes1 who at once set off to cut wood for the house1 and before we returned to the vessel in the evening two posts were up4 ,as the ,bertha's time was up1 and the season for the trade winds closing1 everything was done to get on with the house4 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane worked well4 ,two men from the ,bertha1 and two from the ,mayri joined with the four teachers in the work1 and by ,tuesday the framework was nearly up4 ,we landed our things that day1 and immediately after breakfast on ,wednesday1 ,december #eth1 we went ashore to reside2 and about ten a4m4 the ,bertha left4 ,on the ,tuesday1 ,mr4 ,mc,farlane and ,i visited several villages on the mainland3 three in a deep bay1 which must be very unhealthy1 from the many swamps and high mountains around4 ,the people appeared friendly1 and got very excited over the presents we gave them4 ,we got an old foretopsail from the captain1 which we rigged up as a tent1 in which the teachers slept1 we occupying their quarters4 ,we enjoyed a good night's rest4 ,in early morning the house was surrounded with natives1 many of whom were armed4 ,they must wonder at our staying here3 they consider our goods to consist entirely of hoop-iron1 axes1 knives1 and arrowroot4 ,about eleven a4m4 the war canoes were launched on the opposite side of the water4 ,the excitement here was then great4 ,i met a lad running with painted skulls to the war canoe of the village4 ,soon it was decorated with skulls1 shells1 cocoanuts1 and streamers1 and launched4 ,those on the opposite side came out into the deep bay2 ours remained stationary till the afternoon1 when about thirty men got into her1 and away towards ,farm ,bay to trade their hoop-iron for sago4 ,on ,sunday1 we met for our usual public services under a large tree1 and a number of natives attended1 who of course could not make out what was said1 as they were conducted in ,rarotongan4 ,at our morning and evening prayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the singing4 ,we see quite a number of strangers every day--some from ,brumer ,island1 ,tissot1 ,teste1 ,china ,straits1 ,catamaran ,bay1 ,farm ,bay1 and other places4 ,those from ,vakavaka--a place over by ,china ,straits--are lighter and better-looking than those here4 ,the women there do not seem to tattoo themselves4 ,here they tattoo themselves all over their faces and bodies1 and make themselves look very ugly4 ,i have not seen one large man or woman amongst them all4 ,we had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply of plaited cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of our house4 ,by the #adth1 we had the walls and roof finished1 when all our party moved into it4 ,we had a curtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers' end and ours1 and curtains for doors and windows1 but were glad to get into it in that unfinished state3 the weather was breaking1 and we felt anxious about the teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained1 and we had no privacy at all where we were1 and were tired of squatting on the ground1 for we could not get a chair in our part of the house2 indeed1 the flooring was of such a construction that the legs of a chair or table would have soon gone through it4 ,on the #acth1 we were busy getting the wood we had cut for the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted along2 got ten large pieces into the water by breakfast-time4 ,after breakfast1 ,mrs4 ,chalmers and ,i were at the new house1 with the captain of the ,mayri1 when we heard a noise like quarrelling4 ,on looking out1 ,i saw the natives very excited1 and many of them running with spears and clubs towards the house where ,mrs4 ,chalmers1 about five minutes before1 had left the teachers rising from breakfast4 ,i hastened over1 and pushed my way amongst the natives till ,i got to the front1 when1 to my horror1 ,i was right in front of a gun aimed by one of the ,mayri's crew 7who had been helping us with the house7 at a young man brandishing a spear4 ,the aim was perfect3 had the gun been fired--as it would have been had ,i not arrived in time--the native would have been shot dead4 ,i pushed the native aside1 and ordered the gun to be put down1 and turned to the natives1 shouting1 ,besi1 besi6 7,enough1 enough674 ,some of them returned their spears and clubs1 but others remained threatening4 ,i spoke to our party against using firearms1 and then ,i caught the youth who was flourishing his spear1 and with difficulty got it from him4 ,poor fellow1 he cried with rage1 yet he did me no harm4 ,i clapped him1 and got him to go away4 ,all day he sat under a tree1 which we had frequently to pass1 but he would have nothing to say to us4 ,it seems a knife had been stolen1 and he being the only one about the house when it was missed1 was accused of taking it4 ,one of the teachers was winding line1 and he caught the young fellow by the arm to inquire about the knife4 ,the lad thought he was going to be tied up with the line2 he struggled1 got free1 and raised the alarm4 ,only the night before ,i had to warn the teachers against using firearms to alarm or threaten the natives4 ,an axe was stolen2 every place about was searched for it1 and for some time without its being found4 ,at last1 a native found it buried in the sand near where it was last used4 ,it had evidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity should occur of taking it away4 ,during the search1 the owner of the axe 7one of the teachers7 ran off for his gun1 and came rushing over with it4 ,i ordered him to take it back1 and in the evening told them it was only in ,new ,guinea that guns were used by missionaries4 ,it was not so in any other mission ,i knew of1 and if we could not live amongst the natives without arms1 we had better remain at home2 and if ,i saw arms used again by them for anything1 except birds1 or the like1 ,i should have the whole of them thrown into the sea4 ,in the afternoon of the #adth1 ,i went over to the house in which we had been staying1 to stir up the teachers to get the things over more quickly2 ,mrs4 ,chalmers remaining at the new house to look after the things there1 as1 without doors or flooring1 everything was exposed4 ,i went to the seaside to call to the captain of the ,mayri to send us the boat ashore1 when1 on looking towards my left1 ,i saw twenty armed natives hurrying along4 ,though painted1 ,i recognized some of them as those who were very friendly on board the ,bertha1 and spoke to them2 but they hurried past1 frowning and saying something ,i did not understand4 ,they went straight on to the chief's house1 and surrounded our party4 ,i passed through1 and stood in front of them4 ,one very ugly-looking customer was brandishing his spear close by me4 ,it was an anxious moment1 and one in which ,i am sure many would have used firearms4 ,i called out to the teachers1 ,remain quiet4 ,our chief sprung out on to the platform in front of the house and harangued4 ,he was very excited4 ,shortly he called to the teachers1 in signs and words1 to bring out their guns and fire4 ,they refused4 ,he then rushed into the house and seized a gun1 and was making off with it1 when one of the teachers caught hold of him4 ,i1 seeing the teacher with the chief1 thought something was wrong1 and went to them4 ,we quieted him1 and did our best to explain to him that we were no fighters1 but men of peace4 ,the babel all round us was terrible4 ,by-and-by a request was made to me to give the chief from the other side a present1 and get him away4 ,i said1 ,no2 had he come in peace1 and as a chief1 ,i would have given him a present1 but ,i will not do so now4 ,they retired to deliberate1 and sent another request for a present4 ,no2 no presents to men in arms4 ,if the chief returns to-morrow unarmed1 he will get a present4 ,it seems they are vexed with our living here instead of with them1 because they find those here are getting what they consider very rich by our living with them4 ,when quiet was restored1 we returned to the carrying of our things4 ,when we came to the last few things1 our chief objected to their removal until he got a farewell present4 ,he had been paid for the use of the house before any of us entered it2 but we gave him another present1 and so finished the business4 ,our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub4 ,it belonged to the teachers of ,east ,cape4 ,it had only been lent to us1 so we had to get it back4 ,the next morning the chief from the other side came to see me4 ,he received a present1 and looked particularly sheepish when ,i tried to explain to him that we did not like fighting4 ,all day ,i took care to show that ,i was very displeased at the loss of the saw1 and by the evening ,i was told that it had been taken by those on the other side2 and offers of returning it were made1 but ,i saw ,i was expected to buy it from them4 ,i said1 ,no2 ,i will not buy what was stolen from me2 the saw must be returned1 and ,i will give an axe to the one who goes for it1 and fetches it to me4 ,the following day1 ,sunday1 the #aeth1 we held the usual services under a large tree near the mission house2 a great many strangers present2 the latter were very troublesome4 ,on ,monday afternoon the saw was returned4 ,the ,mayri left us that day1 to visit the teachers at ,east ,cape4 ,the people are getting quieter4 ,at present they are chiefly interested in the sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house4 ,they work willingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads1 but cannot do much continuously4 ,they seem to have no kind of worship1 and their sports are few4 ,the children swing1 bathe1 and sail small canoes4 ,the grown-up people have their dance--a very poor sort of thing4 ,a band of youths1 with drums1 stand close together1 and in a most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the drums4 ,the dancers dance round the men once or twice1 and all stop to rest a bit4 ,i have been twice present when only the women danced4 ,they bury their dead1 and place houses over the graves1 which they fence round1 planting crotons1 bananas1 etc41 inside4 ,they do their cooking inside their houses4 ,it was very hot and uncomfortable when we were in the native house4 ,the master being a sort of chief1 and having a large household1 a great deal of cooking was required4 ,three large fires were generally burning in their end of the house for the greater part of the day4 ,the heat and smoke from these fires were not nice4 ,indeed1 they generally had one or two burning all night1 to serve for blankets1 ,i suppose4 ,natives of ,south-,eastern ,new ,guinea3 #ei4;jpg ,we went on with our work about the place1 getting on well with the natives and with those from other parts4 ,we became so friendly with the natives that ,i had hoped to go about with them in their canoes4 ,several natives from one of the settlements invited me to visit their place1 and said if ,i went with them in their canoe they would return me4 ,i went with them1 and was well received by all the people at the settlement1 where ,i spent some hours4 ,on the #bast of ,december1 the ,mayri returned from ,east ,cape1 and reported that all were sick1 but that the people were very friendly and kind to teachers4 ,anxious to keep the vessel employed1 and to prepare the way for landing teachers1 ,i resolved to visit a settlement on the mainland at deadly feud with this people4 ,the people here tried hard to dissuade me from going1 telling me that1 as ,i stayed with them1 my head would be cut off4 ,seeing me determined to go1 they brought skulls1 saying1 mine would be like that1 to adorn their enemies' war canoe1 or hang outside the chief's house4 ,feeling sure that they did not wish me to go because they were afraid the hoop-iron1 the knives1 axes1 beads1 and cloth might also be distributed on the other side1 ,i told them ,i must go2 so they left me to my fate4 ,i took the teacher with me that ,i hoped to leave there4 ,we were received very kindly by the people4 ,they led us inland1 to show us there was water1 and when we got back to the seaside they regaled us with sugar- cane and cocoanuts4 ,they then told us that they did not live at the village1 but at the next1 and merely came here for food4 ,we then got into a canoe1 and were paddled up to the other village1 where a great crowd assembled1 and where we publicly gave the chiefs our presents4 ,they danced with delight1 and told the teacher not to be long until he came to reside with them4 ,on our return we thought our friends seemed disappointed4 ,we had suffered no harm2 however1 as ,i had been unwell for some days1 and felt worse on the day following my trip1 they felt comforted1 and assured me it was because of our visiting ,tepauri4 ,we had several things stolen1 and amongst other things a camp oven1 which we miss much4 ,yet these are things which must be borne1 and we can hope that some day their stealing propensities will change4 ,from a very unexpected source1 and in a very unexpected manner1 the whole prospects of this eastern mission seemed all at once to be upset4 ,i do not think ,i can do better than extract my journal for the next few days4 ,december #bith4--,about twelve o'clock three lads from the ,mayri came ashore to cut firewood4 ,one of them came to me1 saying1 ,i 'fraid1 sir1 our captain he too fast with natives4 ,one big fellow he come on board1 and he sit down below4 ,captain he tell him get up2 he no get up4 ,captain he get sword1 and he tell him1 s'pose he no get up he cut head off2 he get up1 go ashore4 ,i fear he no all right4 ,they left me and went towards the sawpit4 ,some men were clearing at the back of my house1 some were putting up a cook-house1 and the teachers were sawing wood4 ,on the cook-house being finished1 ,i was paying the men1 when1 on hearing a great noise1 ,i rose up and saw those who were at the sawpit running away and leaping the fence1 and heard firing as if from the vessel4 ,i rushed into the house with my bag1 and then out to see what it was4 ,i saw natives on board the ,mayri1 and some in canoes2 they were getting the hawser ashore1 and pulling up the anchor1 no doubt to take the vessel4 ,everywhere natives were appearing1 some armed1 and others unarmed4 ,two of the lads from the vessel1 wishing to get on board1 went to their boat1 but found the natives would not let it go4 ,i shouted to the natives detaining it to let it go1 which they did4 ,had ,i not been near1 they would certainly have been fired upon by the two lads1 who were armed with muskets4 ,before the boat got to the vessel ,i saw natives jump overboard1 and soon the firing became brisker4 ,i rushed along the beach1 calling upon the natives to get into the bush1 and to those on board to cease firing4 ,firing ceased1 and soon ,i heard great wailing at the chief's house1 where ,i was pressed to go4 ,a man was shot through the leg and arm4 ,on running through the village to the house1 to get something for the wounded man1 ,i was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely1 shot through the left arm1 the bullet entering the chest4 ,i got some medicine and applied it to both4 ,when ,i reached the house1 ,i found ,mrs4 ,chalmers the only calm person there4 ,natives were all around armed4 ,when at the chief's house with medicine ,i was told there was still another1 and he was on board4 ,they kept shouting ,bocasi1 ,bocasi1 the name of the man who was on board in the morning4 ,i found a small canoe all over blood1 and two natives paddled me off4 ,on getting alongside1 ,i saw the captain sitting on deck1 looking very white1 and blood all about him4 ,i asked1 ,is there still a man on board8 ,answer3 ,yes4 ,is he shot8 ,yes4 ,dead8 ,yes4 ,he was dead1 and lying below4 ,i was afraid to remain long on board1 and would not risk landing with the body2 nor would it do for the body to be landed before me1 as then ,i might be prevented from landing at all2 so ,i got into the canoe1 in which one native was sitting4 ,the other was getting the body to place in the canoe2 but ,i said1 ,not in this one1 but a larger one4 ,so ashore ,i went1 and hastened to the house4 ,i understood the captain to say that they attempted to take his life1 and this big man1 armed with a large sugar-cane knife1 was coming close up1 and he shot him dead4 ,the captain's foot was frightfully cut4 ,he had a spear-head in his side1 and several other wounds4 ,the principal people seemed friendly1 and kept assuring us that all was right1 we should not be harmed4 ,great was the wailing when the body was landed1 and arms were up and down pretty frequently4 ,canoes began to crowd in from the regions around4 ,a man who has all along been very friendly and kept close by us advised us strongly to leave during the night1 as1 assuredly1 when the war canoes from the different parts came in1 we should be murdered4 ,mrs4 ,chalmers decidedly opposed our leaving4 ,god would protect us4 ,the vessel was too small1 and not provisioned1 and to leave would be losing our position as well as endangering ,teste and ,east ,cape4 ,we came here for ,christ's work1 and ,he would protect us4 ,in the dusk1 one of the crew came ashore1 saying that the captain was very ill1 and wanted to go off to ,murray ,island4 ,i could not go on board1 and leave them here4 ,we consented to the vessel's leaving1 and ,i gave the lad some medicine for the captain1 and asked him to send on shore all he could spare in the way of beads1 etc4 ,i took all that was necessary1 and about half-past seven the vessel left4 ,we were told we should have to pay something to smooth over the trouble1 which we were quite willing to do4 ,late at night we had things ready4 ,we had our evening prayers in ,rarotongan1 reading ,psalm xlvi41 and feeling that ,god was truly our refuge4 ,people were early about on the #cjth4 ,we gave the things which were prepared1 and they were accepted4 ,the people from the settlement to which the man belonged who was shot came to attack us1 but the people here ordered them back4 ,many people came in from islands and mainland4 ,a number of so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us1 and that we can go on with our work4 ,we thought it not well to have services out of doors to-day1 so held prayer-meetings in the house4 ,great crowds came in from all round on the #cast1 and many war canoes4 ,the people were extremely impudent1 jumping the fence1 and taking no heed of what we said4 ,one of the chief men of the settlement to which the man who was shot belongs returned from ,vaare 7,teste ,island74 ,he seemed friendly1 and ,i gave him a present4 ,i had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settlements4 ,some said it would consist of two men and a child1 others of five and a child4 ,the people continued troublesome all day1 and seemed to think we had nothing else to do than attend to their demands4 ,january #ast1 #ahgh4--,we were told we might be attacked4 ,there was a great wailing assembly at the other village4 ,a canoe from ,tanosine1 with a great many ugly-looking men1 passed1 and our friends here seemed to fear they would attack us4 ,we thought everything settled1 and that we should have no more to pay4 ,the warp belonging to the ,mayri was carried past to-day and offered for sale2 but ,i would have nothing to do with it4 ,we have tried the meek and quiet up till now1 and they only become more impudent and threatening4 ,having tried the peaceful and pleasant1 we determined to show the natives that we were not afraid1 and resisted every demand1 and insisted that there should be no more leaping the fence4 ,on demands being made1 ,i shouted1 ,no more2 wait1 and when ,beritama fighting canoe comes1 then make your demands4 ,they seemed afraid1 and became less troublesome4 ,in the afternoon of ,january #bnd1 the parties who have the hawser brought it to me2 but ,i would have nothing to do with it4 ,i told them if ,pouairo1 the settlement of the man who was shot1 determines to attack us1 let them come1 we1 too1 can fight4 ,one of the teachers fired off his gun at some distance from a bread-fruit tree1 and the bullet went clean through a limb of it2 it caused great exclamations1 and crowds went to look at it4 ,the hawser was returned and left outside4 ,we took no notice of it4 ,the people were much quieter1 and no demands were made4 ,the cannibal feast was held4 ,some of our friends appeared with pieces of human flesh dangling from their neck and arms4 ,the child was spared for a future time1 it being considered too small4 ,amidst all the troubles ,mrs4 ,chalmers was the only one who kept calm and well4 ,the ,ellengowan arrived on ,january #bjth4 ,the natives were beginning to think no vessel would come2 but when it arrived1 they were frightened1 and willing to forget the ,mayri affair4 ,a few days before she arrived some of our friends warned us against going too far away from the house4 ,after her arrival we were able to go about among the people again4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,a ,,few ,,trip ,,incidents4 ,start eastwards from ,heath ,island--,naroopoo--,trading with ,natives--,landing at ,roux ,island--,interview with the ,chief--,the ,man with the club--,effect of a gunshot on the natives--,ellengowan ,bay--,narrow ,escape--,the steam- whistle useful--,attempt to go inland unsuccessful--,amazons--,women chief instigators of quarrels--,toulon ,island--,the real ,amazons' ,land--,how the report arose--,cloudy ,bay--,interview with the ,chief--,sandbank ,bay--,a hurried time--,dufaure ,island--,attack on ,mr4 ,chalmers by ,aroma natives--,defended by some of the natives--,attack due to evil conduct of white men--,intentions of the natives--,heathen customs--,pigs--,planting--,trading--,si ckness4 ,the ,ellengowan had been thoroughly refitted at ,sydney2 and in the spring of #ahgh1 accompanied by my wife1 ,i embarked on a cruise from east to west along the south coast of ,new ,guinea4 ,the little steamer was commanded by ,captain ,dudfield1 and manned by an efficient native crew4 ,communication was held with some two hundred villages1 one hundred and five were personally visited1 and ninety for the first time by a white man4 ,several bays1 harbours1 rivers1 and islands were discovered and named2 the country between ,meikle and ,orangerie ,bays1 together with that lying at the back of ,kerepunu was explored1 and the entire coast line from ,keppel ,point to ,mc,farlane ,harbour1 traversed on foot4 ,in travelling through a new country1 it is impossible not to have many experiences that may interest those at home1 although to the traveller they may seem of little moment4 ,in ,may1 #ahgh1 ,i began my journeys on ,new ,guinea1 in parts hereto unknown1 and amongst tribes supposed to be hostile4 ,i resolved1 come what might1 to travel unarmed1 trusting to ,him in whose work ,i was engaged1 and feeling that no harm could come to me while in ,his care4 ,on leaving ,heath ,island1 we really began on new and little-known seas and country1 and we first anchored in a bay we called ,inverary ,bay4 ,on landing1 we were met by a few men1 the others coming out with goods and chattels4 ,we steamed round by the ,leocadie1 through what forms a good harbour for small vessels1 and over by the sandbanks in ,catamaran ,bay4 ,we called at ,tanosina1 to the east of the ,leocadie1 landing with caution1 as these people had been rather troublesome on our first arrival at ,south ,cape1 and were very anxious to avenge the man shot on board the ,mayri4 ,they did not receive us heartily1 and seemed inclined to be impudent1 so ,i thought it best1 after giving one or two presents1 to get quietly to the boat and away4 ,i may here say that in after-times these people were very friendly1 and helped us much in our work4 ,we visited all round the bay1 returning to ,south ,cape4 ,after getting a supply of water and fuel on board1 we started again1 going east round ,rugged ,head to ,farm ,bay1 and well up to the head of the bay1 anchoring opposite to ,naroopoo4 ,i landed1 and soon had an admiring crowd round me4 ,i was dressed in white1 with black leather boots4 ,sitting on a verandah1 some1 more daring than others1 would come up1 touch my shirt and trousers1 bite their fingers1 and run away4 ,again and again this was done by the bold ones1 who always eyed my boots4 ,after consultation1 one old woman mustered courage1 came up1 touched my trousers1 and finally my boots4 ,she was trembling all over1 but horror of horrors1 to add to her fear1 lifting my foot1 ,i pulled my boot off2 she screamed and ran1 some others setting out with her1 and did not stop until quite out of sight4 ,after visiting several villages1 and finding that the bay was thickly populated1 ,i went on board4 ,the following morning many canoes came alongside1 and on our getting up steam were much afraid4 ,it was evident they wanted to show us that they had confidence in us1 but it was difficult with the steam up1 the snorting and general commotion on board being so great4 ,we warned them on getting up anchor to clear off4 ,why should they8 ,there was no sail1 nor were we going to move4 ,a commotion aft1 canoes with crews clearing away to a very safe distance4 ,one canoe hanging on is pulled under1 a wild shout1 a moment's silence1 and then there is a loud roar of laughter1 when they see canoe and paddlers appear astern at some distance4 ,we rounded ,one ,tree ,point and could see no entrance to a bay1 just a few miles beyond1 but since explored and named ,lawes ,bay4 ,keeping on1 we anchored outside of the ,roux ,islands1 in a fine safe harbour4 ,before leaving our friends at ,south ,cape1 they were boasting of having visited some place on the coast1 where1 on showing their large knives1 the natives all left1 they helping themselves to a good many things4 ,we had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come alongside1 and it was not until we had fastened a piece of red cloth to a stick and floated it astern1 that the first canoe would come near4 ,the natives approached1 picked up the red cloth1 and in showing them pieces of hoop-iron1 they gradually came near enough to take hold of a piece1 look well at it1 and finally decide to come alongside4 ,once alongside we were soon fraternizing1 and on seeing this other canoes came off1 and trading for curios began4 ,asking the captain to keep on trading as long as possible1 ,i hastened ashore1 to see the chief of one of the villages4 ,as long as trading canoes remain alongside1 the parties landing are perfectly safe2 care should be taken to get away as soon as possible after the canoes leave the vessel4 ,the tide was far out when our boat touched the beach4 ,a crowd met us1 and in every hand was a club or spear4 ,i went on to the bow1 to spring ashore1 but was warned not to land4 ,i told them ,i had come to see the chief1 had a present for him1 and must see him4 ,give us your present1 and we will give it to him1 but you must not land4 ,i am ,tamate1 from ,suau1 and have come as a friend to visit your old chief1 and ,i must land4 ,an elderly woman came close up to the boat1 saying1 ,you must not land1 but ,i will take the present1 or1 pointing to a young man close by1 he will take it for his father1 he being the chief's son4 ,no2 ,i must see the chief for myself2 but the son ,i should also like to know1 and will give him a present too4 ,springing ashore1 followed by the mate1 a fine1 daring fellow1 much accustomed to roughing it on the diggings1 and not the least afraid of natives1 ,i walked up the long beach to the village1 to the chief's house4 ,the old man was seated on the platform in front of the house1 and did not even deign to rise to receive us4 ,i told him who ,i was1 and the object of my coming4 ,he heard me through1 and treated the whole as stale news4 ,i placed my present on the platform in front of him1 and waited for some word of satisfaction2 but none escaped the stern old chieftain4 ,presents of beads were handed to little children in arms1 but indignantly returned4 ,loud laughing in the outskirts of crowd and little jostling4 ,gould1 said ,i to the mate1 ,i think we had better get away from here2 keep eyes all round1 and let us make quietly to the beach4 ,to the chief ,i said1 ,friend1 ,i am going2 you stay4 ,lifting his eyebrows1 he said1 ,go4 ,we were followed by the crowd1 one man with a large round club walking behind me1 and uncomfortably near4 ,had ,i that club in my hand1 ,i should feel a little more comfortable4 ,when on the beach we saw the canoes had left the vessel1 and were hurrying ashore2 our boat was soon afloat1 still1 we had some distance to go4 ,i must have that club1 or ,i fear that club will have me4 ,i had a large piece of hoop-iron1 such as is highly prized by the natives1 in my satchel2 taking it1 ,i wheeled quickly round1 presented it to the savage1 whose eyes were dazzled as with a bar of gold4 ,with my left hand ,i caught the club1 and before he became conscious of what was done ,i was heading the procession1 armed as a savage1 and a good deal more comfortable4 ,we got safely away4 ,from ,fyfe ,bay we went round to ,meikle ,bay1 where ,i visited all the villages1 and was well received4 ,before landing ,i decided to walk inland1 and see for myself if there was no arm of the sea running up at the back4 ,the charts showed no such thing1 but ,i felt sure1 from the formation of the land and the manner of clouds hanging over it1 that there must be a lake or some large sheet of water1 and that there must be considerable streams carrying off the water of the ,lorne ,range and ,cloudy ,mountains1 as no stream of any size came to the sea on the coast-side4 ,i got the chief of the village at the head of the bay and a large following to show us the way4 ,we travelled for some miles through good country1 and at last came out opposite a large sheet of water1 stretching well up towards ,cloudy ,mountain and away towards the head of ,milne ,bay4 ,seeing the ,stirling ,range1 ,i was able to take a few positions4 ,our mate1 who had his fowling-piece with him1 saw a very pretty parrot on a cocoanut tree4 ,he approached until close under--the natives1 about forty in number1 standing breathlessly round1 and wondering what was going to happen4 ,bang6 ,down dropped the parrot2 a wail1 hands to ears1 a shout1 and we were left alone with the chief1 who happened to be standing close by me4 ,those natives only ceased running when they reached their homes4 ,we visited several villages1 and at sundown returned4 ,in the dark we travelled along the bed of a creek1 passing small villages1 whose inhabitants were terribly alarmed1 but none more so than our chief4 ,poor fellow1 he was frightened4 ,how nimbly he ascended his platform on our arrival at his house1 where his two wives were crying1 but now rejoiced to see him in the body4 ,long ago the escort had returned with a terrible tale1 and they feared whether their husband could have lived through it all4 ,but he was now considered a veritable hero1 to be sung in song and shouted in dance4 ,friends gather round2 he tells his tale2 presents the bird2 the wives examine it1 then the crowd of relatives4 ,he afraid6 oh dear no6 ,but he looked pale for a native1 and no quantity of hoop-iron would induce him to move from that platform and the side of those dear wives that night4 ,enough for one day1 one month1 one year1 so1 ,good- bye1 ,tamate2 ,i shall be off in the morning to see you4 ,arriving on board late1 we were welcome3 they feared we had been spirited away4 ,the following day we got round to ,ellengowan ,bay4 ,after visiting all the villages1 ,i went right up to the head of the bay to see ,silo and its chief4 ,the tide was very low1 and after pulling the boat some distance through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers1 the mate and ,i going to the village4 ,he had hoop-iron cut in seven-inch lengths in his pockets4 ,the old chief received us graciously1 and began giving me a long story of what he wished to do in the way of pigs and food1 if ,i would only stay two days4 ,it was a sickly looking hole1 and not being quite rid of fever1 ,i hoped to get on board and away in an hour4 ,a large crowd gathered round1 all under arms1 very noisy1 and certainly not gentle4 ,a slight scuffle took place1 but was soon over4 ,the mate missed some of his hoop-iron1 caught one young man with a piece1 and took it from him4 ,the crowd increased4 ,i told the chief ,i should prefer his people unarmed1 and not so noisy4 ,he spoke to them1 some put down their clubs and spears2 but they were hidden in the bush close by4 ,we bade the chief good-bye1 but he expressed a great wish to see me in the boat4 ,apparently with great carelessness1 we made towards the beach1 attended by a noisy crowd1 all arms now picked up4 ,remembering the difficulty we had in landing1 and knowing savages preferred killing out of their own villages1 hospitality having ended when friends left the precincts1 ,i determined not to have that crowd near the boat4 ,i asked the chief to send them back2 but to him they would not listen1 and still the noisy crowd followed on4 ,i shouted to them to return1 and not come troubling us1 as we were getting into the boat4 ,no use2 on they followed1 and the boat they meant to visit4 ,i stood still1 and not feeling particularly cheerful1 ,i told them to go on1 and go off to the vessel--that ,i should wait and return to the village4 ,stamping my foot1 as if in a towering passion1 ,i told the chief1 ,go with all your people to the boat2 as for me1 ,i shall return4 ,it had the desired effect4 ,the people fled1 and the few who remained listened to the old man1 and came no further4 ,we got to the boat and away1 glad to escape without any unpleasantness4 ,entering ,orangerie ,bay1 we anchored off the village of ,daunai1 from which the whole district takes its name4 ,when here1 our ,chinese cook lost his knife1 and1 spotting the thief1 determined to have it2 but our captain prevented him from jumping into one of the canoes1 and so avoided trouble4 ,there were over one hundred canoes round the vessel1 and altogether over four hundred men4 ,we stopped all trading1 and frightened the canoes away by blowing the steam whistle--they were much afraid of it1 and kept at a very respectful distance4 ,we went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed ,meikle ,bay1 finding it in every way suited to its native name1 ,paroai1 or piggish water1 and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary boat4 ,i went ashore in one of the canoes1 to be landed at ,bootu1 and walk across to ,milne ,bay4 ,before leaving the vessel ,i engaged with the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon1 and when ,i had seen ,milne ,bay1 to return me to the vessel1 when they would be paid for all their trouble4 ,so with our bags and a few eatables1 we started2 when about a mile away from the vessel1 they headed the canoe more in towards the right shore1 and no amount of talk in calmness or wrath would get them to do otherwise4 ,we touched at a place not far from a village we visited overland--some left us1 and we were certainly now too weak to proceed4 ,we ran down to the village1 where we landed with my bag1 and away went my native canoe men4 ,love or money would not move the villagers1 and they were exceedingly impudent1 knowing well that we were quite in their hands4 ,my friend the mate1 who insisted on accompanying me1 agreed with me that things were rather out of the common with us1 and that a sharp eye1 and quick ear1 and quick action were of some importance4 ,they at once went to get their clubs and spears1 and begged and insisted on presents2 but they were astonished1 ,i doubt not1 to find their begging of little avail4 ,go to the vessel1 if you want presents4 ,why are you anchored so far off8 ,can't get nearer1 and only wish you would show me the way in close to here4 ,pointing to a passage close in shore1 ,i suggested they had better take us off1 and we would try and get her round when the tide rose2 but to this they objected1 and instead of becoming more friendly1 it seemed to us they were just going the other way2 but that may have been merely as we thought1 looking at them through coloured glasses1 suspicion1 and a certain mixture of doubt if ever we should again see the vessel4 ,a few men came running along the beach4 ,i met them1 and hurriedly asked them to take us off when they would have hoop-iron and beads4 ,yes4 ,quick6 do not let them think6 ,into the nearest canoe4 ,away in the distance those in the village were shouting and gesticulating4 ,come back6 ,come back1 at once4 ,oh no1 my friends2 pull1 you must pull6 and while they are discussing we are paddling4 ,i tell them it would be dangerous to attempt going back4 ,on we go1 beyond small islands in sight of vessel1 and now they give up speaking of returning4 ,we got off1 and ,i paid the fellows well4 ,anxious to get in1 we tried in many places at high tide to enter the shore channel1 but all was useless4 ,for several miles we were sailing deep in mud1 unable to work the engine4 ,a canoe came near1 and ,i told them to inform those ashore that we could not get in4 ,at ,port ,glasgow1 the people cleared out1 bag and baggage1 leaving us in quiet possession4 ,at ,port ,moresby1 ,i had heard of a woman's land1 a land where only women--perfect ,amazons--lived and ruled4 ,these ladies were reported to be excellent tillers of the soil1 splendid canoeists in sailing or paddling1 and quite able to hold their own against attacks of the sterner sex1 who sometimes tried to invade their country4 ,at the ,east ,end they knew nothing of this woman's land1 and nowhere east of ,hula have ,i ever heard it spoken of4 ,to find so interesting a community was of great moment1 and everywhere we went we inquired1 but only to be laughed at by the natives2 sometimes asked by them1 ,how do they continue to exist8 ,but that1 too1 puzzled us4 ,as no part of the coast from ,east ,cape to ,port ,moresby would be left unvisited by us1 we were certain to come across the ,amazonian settlement1 and when we did1 it would be useful to keep a sharp look-out1 as ,i have noticed that the instigators of nearly all quarrels are the women4 ,i have seen at ,south ,cape1 when the men were inclined to remain quiet1 the women rush out1 and1 as if filled with devils1 incite them4 ,just after the attack on the ,mayri1 and when ,i was going about the settlement attending to the wounded1 ,i heard the women call loudly for vengeance1 and1 because the men would not at once heed them1 throw their shields on the ground and batter them with stones1 then pull their hair1 and tell the men they were only poor weak cowards4 ,we heard that ,mailiukolo 7,toulon7 canoes with women were more numerous1 and some very large ones with women alone4 ,in the early morning we were off the island1 and soon ready to land4 ,on crossing the reef we met two canoes1 one with men and one with women4 ,we signed to them to go to the vessel1 whilst we pulled up to the large village on the north side4 ,as the boat touched the fine hard sandy beach1 a man1 the only being in sight1 ran down and stood in front4 ,i went forward to spring ashore1 but he said ,i must not4 ,finding he knew the ,daunai dialect1 ,i said to him1 ,i must land2 that ,i was a friend1 and gave him my name1 which he already knew from the east4 ,i gave him a strip of red cloth and stepped ashore1 when he ran away into the bush4 ,at our first approach ,i could only see this one man1 but now ,i saw hundreds of grass petticoats on women standing under the houses4 ,i could not see the upper parts of their bodies1 only the petticoats and feet4 ,they were indeed quiet until ,i advanced nearer1 when one wild scream was given that would try stronger nerves than mine1 and signs to keep away4 ,it required more inquisitiveness than ,i possessed to proceed4 ,i retired a few paces1 warning the boat's crew to keep a good look-out1 and especially from the bush end of the village1 where the man ran to4 ,i invited the dusky damsels to come to me1 if they objected to my visiting them2 but no1 ,i must return whence ,i came2 they had seen me1 that was enough4 ,no1 my friends2 we must meet1 and you will have some presents4 ,i held up beads and red cloth1 but1 strange to say1 they seemed to have no effect on that curious crowd4 ,i never saw so many women together4 ,how were we to meet8 was now the question2 to be baulked by them would never do4 ,i threw on the beach a piece of red cloth and a few beads2 walked away quite carelessly1 and apparently not noticing what was taking place4 ,a girl steals out from the crowd1 stops1 turns1 eyes fixed on me2 advances1 stops1 crosses her hands1 pressing her breast4 ,poor thing6 not courage enough2 so1 lightning speed1 back4 ,it is evident the old ladies object to the younger ones attempting1 and they are themselves too frightened4 ,another young damsel about nine or ten years old comes out1 runs1 halts1 walks cat-like1 lest the touch of her feet on the sand should waken me from my reverie2 another halt1 holds her chest1 lest the spirit should take its flight or the pattering heart jump right out4 ,i fear it was beyond the slight patter then1 and had reached the stentorian thump of serious times4 ,on2 a rush2 well done6 ,she picks cloth and beads up4 ,i have gained my point1 and will soon have the crowds--no need to wait so long to have the baits picked up now1 and1 after a few more such temptings1 it is done4 ,i am besieged by the noisest crowd ,i have ever met1 and am truly glad to escape on board the boat4 ,we went to the vessel1 and brought her round to the west side1 where we anchored1 and ,i again landed4 ,crowds met me on the beach1 but no men4 ,i gave my beads indiscriminately1 and soon there was a quarrel between the old ladies and young ones4 ,the latter were ordered off1 and1 because they would not go1 ,i must go4 ,the old ladies insisted on my getting into the boat1 and1 being now assisted by the few men we met in the canoe1 ,i thought it better to comply4 ,long after we left the beach we heard those old cracked1 crabbed voices anathematizing the younger members of that community4 ,i suppose ,i was the first white mortal to land on that sacred shore1 and ,i must have been to them a strange object indeed4 ,i am fully convinced that this is the ,woman's ,land1 and can easily account for its being called so by stray canoes from the westward4 ,after leaving the island1 we steamed round to the westward of the small islands in ,amazon ,bay1 where we intended to spend a quiet ,sabbath after a hard week's work1 and previous to beginning another4 ,after anchoring1 canoes with men and boys kept crossing from the mainland1 and all day ,sunday it was the same4 ,they halted at the islands1 and with the next tide went on to ,toulon4 ,landing on the ,saturday evening to shoot pigeons1 we met several natives1 and learned that their plantations were on the mainland1 and that they crossed to plant and fight1 taking their boys with them4 ,afterwards at ,aroma1 they told me they left their wives and daughters at home in charge of a few men1 whilst the majority crossed to the main1 and stayed away for some time1 returning with food1 to spend a few days at home on the island4 ,during their absence1 the women sail about and trade1 going as far as ,dedele in ,cloudy ,bay1 being one and the same people4 ,canoes from the westward might have called at ,toulon when the men were on the mainland fighting and planting1 and seeing only women1 would soon report a woman's land4 ,many years ago an ,elema canoe was carried away there4 ,they were kindly treated by the ,amazons1 but at ,dedele on returning1 were attacked and several killed2 they naturally reported a woman's land too4 ,the following week we visited ,dedele in ,cloudy ,bay1 which had been visited two years previously by ,messrs4 ,lawes and ,mc,farlane4 ,the village was barricaded with high and thick mangrove sticks1 with a narrow opening to the sea4 ,they objected to my landing1 and formed a crescent in front of the boat4 ,i sprung ashore and asked for the chief4 ,i held out a piece of hoop-iron1 and a rather short1 well-built man1 dressed with boar's tusks and other ornaments1 stepped forward and took my present4 ,he took me by the hand1 and led me to the village1 just allowing me to peep in at the opening4 ,i could see the women rushing out by an opening at the other side2 pigs1 dogs1 nets1 and other valuables were being carried off2 they were rushing off wildly away into the bush4 ,i was very anxious to get right in1 and meant to before ,i went to the boat4 ,my beads were all done up in small parcels1 so ,i could throw them about easily4 ,a poor old woman was sitting under the nearest house1 bewailing her sad lot1 with an infant1 the mother of which had very likely gone off to the bush to hide the valuables and to return for the child1 or perhaps she was upstairs packing up4 ,i threw the poor old dame a packet of beads for herself and another for the child4 ,spying another old lady close by on the opposite side1 ,i threw her one4 ,it had the desired effect2 my friend1 the chief1 who stood guard at the opening1 now conceived the happy thought that something could be made out of me4 ,would you like to walk round and look at the village8 ,yes1 ,i should4 ,come1 then2 and1 giving me his hand1 he led me1 attended by an armed crowd1 to every house1 on the verandahs of which ,i deposited a packet of beads4 ,he was the chief1 and was named ,gidage4 ,when going round he said-- ,you are no longer ,tamate1 you are ,gidage4 ,right1 my friend2 you are no longer ,gidage1 you are ,tamate4 ,i gave him an extra present1 and he gave me a return one1 saying1 ,gidage1 we are friends2 stay1 and ,i1 ,tamate1 will kill you a pig4 ,no1 ,tamate4 ,gidage must go2 but hopes to re-return1 and will then eat ,tamate's pig4 ,no1 stay now2 we are friends1 and you must be fed6 ,no1 ,i cannot stay2 but when ,i return1 then pig-eating--not a very pleasant employment when1 other things can be had4 ,pigs are very valuable animals here1 and much thought of1 and only true friends can be regaled with them4 ,the women nurse the pig4 ,i have seen a woman suckling a child at one breast and a small pig at the other2 that was at ,south ,cape4 ,i have seen it also at ,hula and ,aroma4 ,proceeding to the beach1 we parted1 old and well-known friends4 ,gidage1 must you go8 ,yes2 ,i cannot now stay1 ,tamate4 ,go1 ,gidage2 how many moons until you return8 ,tamate1 ,i cannot say2 but hope to return4 ,kaione 7good-bye71 ,tamate4 ,kaione1 ,gidage2 and away he started1 leaving ,tamate on the beach1 surrounded by an interesting crowd of natives4 ,it was near here1 a few years after1 that a beche-de-mer party of seven were murdered2 and on the opposite side of the bay two cedar-seekers were waylaid1 and lost their lives4 ,we went into ,sandbank ,bay1 and ,i landed at the village of ,domara4 ,what a scene it was6 ,the women rushed into the long grass1 and ,i was led1 after a good deal of talk1 up to the village--only to see1 at the other end1 grass petticoats disappearing1 the wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff they were carrying4 ,one poor woman1 heavily laden with treasures1 had perched above all her child1 and away she1 too1 was flying4 ,never had white man landed there before1 and who knows what he may be up to8 ,the following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put up with in ,new ,guinea4 ,it was resting-day at a village1 far away from the coast1 and1 spreading my chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house in which we were camping1 several sitting round1 ,i was tracing our journey done1 and the probable one to do1 when strange drops were falling around1 a few on the chart4 ,they came from a bulky parcel overhead4 ,jumping up quickly1 ,i discovered that they were grandmother's remains being dried4 ,our chart was placed on the fire1 and the owner was called lustily1 who hurriedly entered and walked away with the parcel4 ,it was altogether a hurried time1 and spoiled our dinner4 ,feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the settlement of teachers might be found in the neighbourhood of ,orangerie ,bay1 ,i resolved on returning thither1 and we anchored at ,kuragori1 on the east side of ,dufaure ,island1 on ,april #beth1 #ahgi4 ,i went ashore1 and found the people delighted to meet me4 ,the chief1 ,tutuaunei1 seems a fine young fellow4 ,the people are good-looking1 clear-skinned1 and very few suffering from skin disease4 ,they were quite at home with us1 and a number accompanied me inland4 ,in strong trade winds1 the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainland opposite4 ,we got on board1 and steamed round to the north side1 anchoring off ,bonabona4 ,i went ashore1 and was met on the beach by ,meaudi1 the chief4 ,he is the chief of four villages1 some distance from one another1 and all a good size4 ,i visited all four4 ,they have good houses1 and all looks clean4 ,i saw no mangroves whatever1 and no appearance of swamp4 ,the villages are on the beach1 and ,i believe in good healthy positions4 ,we walked from ,bonabona to ,sigokoiro1 followed by a large number of men1 women1 and children1 who were much interested in my boots1 clothes1 and hat4 ,the chief lives in ,gokora1 and when on the platform in front of his fine large house ,i gave the present1 and we exchanged names4 ,by adopting his name1 it meant ,i was to visit all his very special friends1 and give them also presents4 ,i called an old woman sitting by to come to me4 ,very hesitatingly she came1 and stretched forth her arm to receive a present4 ,i asked her to come nearer1 which she did1 when assured by the chief it was all right1 and ,i put her present of beads round her neck4 ,then all the people shouted1 clapped their hands1 and danced with delight4 ,after that1 all the old women were produced4 ,we were well known by report to them1 and so ,tamate passed as a great taubada 7chief74 ,dufaure is a fine island1 quite equal to any ,i have seen in the ,south ,pacific--plantations on all sides1 right up to the mountain tops4 ,they know nothing of firearms1 for1 on inquiring if there were birds on the island1 they asked if ,i had a sling4 ,the people are a much finer race1 and freer than any ,i have seen further east4 ,the two races seem to meet here--that from the ,kerepunu side1 and that from the east4 ,we are anchored some distance from the shore in three fathoms1 and further out it is shallower4 ,the opposite shore on mainland looks low and unhealthy4 ,there are ten villages on the island1 five of which we have visited4 ,after visiting the ,keakaro and ,aroma districts1 our journeyings were nearly brought to a sudden termination4 ,when we got halfway between the point next to ,mc,farlane ,harbour1 and ,mailu1 where there is a boat entrance1 we saw the boat1 and waved to them to approach4 ,they came near to the surf1 but not near enough for us to get on board4 ,the native of ,hula1 from ,maopa1 got on board4 ,the ,hula boy got on board early in the day1 leaving us to go on alone4 ,i called out to them to proceed to the boat entrance at ,mailu4 ,great numbers of natives were with us2 we saw1 in the distance1 numbers more sitting on the beach1 and armed4 ,some of those following us were armed4 ,when within two miles of where the boat was to await us1 we came upon a crowd of men and women2 the former carried spears1 clubs1 or pieces of hard wood1 used in opening cocoa nuts2 the women had clubs4 ,some time before this1 ,i said to the teacher and ,loyalty islander1 ,keep a good look-out2 ,i fear there is mischief here4 ,when we came upon the last group1 ,i asked for a cocoanut in exchange for beads2 the man was giving it to me1 when a young man stepped forward and sent him back4 ,we hastened our steps1 so as to get to the village1 where the strangers from ,mailukolo and ,kapumari might help us4 ,the teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for the attack2 and1 not knowing that he knew what they said1 he heard much that left no doubt in our minds that murder was meant4 ,i carried a satchel1 which had beads and hoop-iron in it2 they tried to get it4 ,i gave presents of beads2 some were indignantly returned4 ,i was in front1 between two men with clubs1 who kept telling me ,i was a bad man4 ,i held their hands1 and kept them so that they could not use their clubs4 ,the ,loyalty islander had a fowling-piece--thinking we might be away some days1 and we might have to shoot our dinners4 ,they tried hard to get him to fire it off1 and twice tried to wrest it from him4 ,they know what guns are1 and with reason4 ,they tried to trip us2 they jostled us4 ,on we went4 ,two men1 when near the village1 came close up behind me with large wooden clubs1 which were taken from them by two women1 who ran off to the village4 ,things looked black1 and each of us prayed in silence to ,him who rules over the heathen4 ,soon a man came rushing along1 seized the club1 and took it from the man on my left1 and threw it in the sea4 ,he tried to do the same with the one on my right2 but he was too light a man1 and did not succeed4 ,an old woman1 when at the point1 came out and asked them what they meant1 and followed us1 talking to them all the way1 so dividing their thoughts4 ,an old chief1 whom we saw on our way up1 came hurriedly along to meet us1 calling out1 ,mine is the peace6 ,what have these foreigners done that you want to kill them8 ,he closed up to the teacher1 and took him by the hand4 ,another chief walked close behind me4 ,they began to talk loudly amongst themselves4 ,some were finding fault that we should have been allowed to get near the village1 and others that there was yet time4 ,the boat was anchored some distance off3 we got her nearer2 and1 when ready to move off to the boat1 ,i opened my satchel1 gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs1 and threw beads amongst the crowd4 ,i shouted for ,kapumari1 and a sturdy young fellow fought his way through the crowd4 ,i gave him a piece of hoop-iron1 and1 with our friendly chiefs1 he forced the crowd back1 calling on us to be quick1 and follow4 ,so into the water we got1 the chiefs calling1 ,go quick2 go quick6 ,we got on board2 our ,chinamen got flustered1 and very nearly let the boat drift broadside on the beach2 we1 with poles and oars1 got her round and off1 sails set1 and away for ,kerepunu4 ,before changing clothes1 we thanked ,god our ,father for ,his protection and care over us4 ,we felt ,he alone did all2 unsettled their thoughts as to who first1 where1 and when2 and it was ,he who gave us friends4 ,why should they want to kill us8 ,it was surely never for the small satchel ,i carried4 ,i believe it was revenge4 ,some years ago1 a vessel called off ,aroma2 trading for food was done on board2 thieving went on2 food was sold twice2 revolvers and rifles were brought out2 the natives were fired on1 several were wounded1 and very likely some were killed4 ,natives on the beach were fired upon1 and some were wounded who were hiding in the bush close by4 ,we land--the first foreigners to visit them--and on us they will be revenged4 ,what a pity that the same foreigners who fire on the natives do not return the following week1 and so receive their deserts6 ,the wretches steer clear of such parts4 ,i have asked the teacher to find out1 if possible1 why ,aroma wished to kill ,tamate and ,taria4 ,when in the boat1 we asked the ,hula boy why he left us and took to the boat4 ,he said he had heard some say we should be killed1 and that we would make a fine feast4 ,he did not tell us1 because he had not an opportunity1 and was afraid the people might hear him if he told1 and so he would be killed4 ,a week later a chief from ,maopa came with a ,kerepunu chief to see me4 ,i recognised him as the one who kept back the crowd the other day at ,aroma1 and opened the way for me to get into the water1 and so into the boat4 ,he says1 from our landing in the morning they had determined to kill us1 but the suitable time did not arrive4 ,when we arrived at the place where the large canoes from ,toulon and ,daunai were lying1 it was there arranged by the ,aroma people and those from the canoes that ,aroma should kill us and have all they could get1 and those from the canoes should have the bodies to eat4 ,he says they kept putting it off1 until1 finally1 it was to be done when we were at the boat1 then they would have boat and all2 but he and two other chiefs arrived just in time4 ,he says it was not revenge1 and1 turning to the ,kerepunu chief1 he said1 ,you know ,aroma from of old1 and how all strangers are killed4 ,i gave him a present1 and told him that ,i hoped to see him soon4 ,the inhabitants of the inland villages are probably the aborigines1 who have been driven back to the hills by the robuster race now occupying their plantations on the coast4 ,their habits and customs are curious and interesting4 ,they cook the heads of their slain enemies1 to secure clean skulls to put on sacred places4 ,they have one great spirit--,palaku ,bara1 who dwells in the mountains4 ,they worship him unitedly in one place4 ,each family has a sacred place1 where they carry offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors1 whom they terribly fear4 ,sickness in the family1 death1 famine1 scarcity of fish1 etc4--these terrible spirits are at work and must be propitiated4 ,pigs are never killed but in the one place1 and then they are offered to the spirit4 ,the blood is poured out there1 and the carcase is then carried back to the village1 to be divided1 cooked1 and eaten4 ,pigs' skulls are kept and hung up in the house4 ,food for a feast1 such as at house-building1 is placed near the post where the skulls hang1 and a prayer is said4 ,when the centre-post is put up1 the spirits have wallaby1 fish1 and bananas presented to them1 and they are besought to keep that house always full of food1 and that it may not fall when the wind is strong4 ,the great spirit causes food to grow1 and to him presentations of food are made4 ,spirits1 when they leave the body1 take a canoe1 cross the lagoon1 and depart to the mountains1 where they remain in perfect bliss2 no work1 and nothing to trouble them1 with plenty of betel-nuts4 ,they dance all night long1 and rest all day4 ,when the natives begin planting1 they first take a bunch of bananas and sugar-cane1 and go to the centre of the plantation1 and call over the names of the dead belonging to their family1 adding1 ,there is your food1 your bananas and sugar-cane2 let our food grow well1 and let it be plentiful4 ,if it does not grow well and plentiful1 you all will be full of shame1 and so shall we4 ,when they go on trading expeditions1 they present their food to the spirits at the centre post of the house1 and ask the spirits to go before them and prepare the people1 so that the trading may be prosperous4 ,no great work and no expedition is undertaken without offerings and prayer4 ,when sickness is in the family1 a pig is brought to the sacred place of the great spirit1 and killed4 ,the carcase is then taken to the sacred place of the family1 and the spirits are asked to accept it4 ,sins are confessed1 such as bananas that are taken1 or cocoanuts1 and none have been presented1 and leave not given to eat them4 ,there is a pig2 accept1 and remove the sickness4 ,death follows1 and the day of burial arrives4 ,the friends all stand round the open grave1 and the chief's sister or cousin calls out in a loud voice1 ,you have been angry with us for the bananas we have taken 7or cocoanuts1 as the case may be71 and you have1 in your anger1 taken this child4 ,now let it suffice1 and bury your anger4 ,the body is then placed in the grave1 and covered over with earth4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,sketches ,,of ,,papuan ,,life4 ,journey inland from ,port ,moresby--,evening with a chief--,savage life--,tree houses--,uakinumu--,inland natives--,native habits of eating--,mountain scenery--,upland natives--,return to ,uakinumu--,drinking out of a bamboo--,native conversation--,keninumu--,munikahila--,n ative spiritists--,habits and influence of these men--,meroka--,kerianumu--,makapili--,th e ,laroki ,falls--,epakari--,return to ,port ,moresby4 ,in #ahgi1 ,i made a long journey inland1 in a north-easterly direction from ,port ,moresby4 ,i visited many native villages1 and explored the mountainous country along the course of and between the ,goldie and ,laroki rivers4 ,the reader will get some notion of the country1 the natives1 and their customs1 from the following extracts taken from a journal kept at that time4 ,july #aeth1 #ahgi4--,we left ,port ,moresby at half-past seven1 reaching the ,laroki at half-past eleven4 ,we crossed in shallow water near to where the ,goldie joins the ,laroki4 ,we had eighteen carriers1 four of them women1 who carried more than the men4 ,after resting awhile at the ,laroki we went on about three miles farther to ,moumiri1 the first village of the ,koiari tribe of ,port ,moresby4 ,on entering the village we took them by surprise2 the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears4 ,we called out1 ,mai1 mai1 mai 7,peace1 peace1 peace71 and1 on recognizing who we were1 they came running towards us with both hands outspread4 ,we met the chief's wife1 and she led us up the hill1 where there are a number of good native houses4 ,it was shouted on before us that foreigners and ,ruatoka had arrived1 and down the hill the youths came rushing1 shaking hands1 shouting1 and slapping themselves4 ,we were received by the chief under the house1 and there we had to sit for a very long time until his wife returned from the plantation with sugar-cane4 ,our carriers chewed large quantities of sugar-cane1 got a few betel-nuts1 and then set off on the return journey4 ,we are now thirteen miles north- east from ,port ,moresby1 #cfj feet above sea-level1 the thermometer #hd degrees in shade4 ,the people are small1 women not good-looking1 and children ill-shaped4 ,the ,goldie runs at the base of the hill2 the natives get water from it4 ,the houses are very similar to those inland from ,kerepunu4 ,on the door hangs a bunch of nutshells1 so that when the door is shut or opened they make a noise4 ,should the occupants of the house be asleep1 and their foes come1 they would1 on the door being opened1 be woke up4 ,spears and clubs are all handy4 #afth4--,ruatoka1 ,joe 7an ,african71 and ,i started at half-past ten for ,munikahila1 where we hope to get carriers1 our ,moumiri friends objecting to go4 ,the first village we came to we found deserted1 and in one old house the skeleton of a child4 ,we crossed to another village1 and coming suddenly upon the few who were at home1 they were terribly frightened2 one woman danced up and down the village1 and shouted to the people in the neighbouring villages to come at once4 ,we are #aagj feet above sea- level1 at a village called ,keninuma4 ,the people soon gathered round1 some with spears1 clubs1 and shields1 others unarmed4 ,feeling cold after the climb1 ,i signed to be allowed to go into a house to change clothing1 and was given to understand that a very good place to do it was on the verandah in front of the house1 and before the assembly4 ,when the chief1 ,poroko ,butoa1 arrived1 we were assigned a small house2 a man during the evening came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane and calling out for a tomahawk4 ,a tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane would be throwing money to the winds4 ,we are ,e4,n4,e4 from ,moumiri4 #agth4--,rather cold during the night4 ,five natives who slept in the house with us kept a fire burning all night4 ,a child sitting in front of the house has a taro in one hand1 a bamboo pipe in the other2 takes a bite of the taro1 then a draw from the charged pipe1 and the mixture seems to be thoroughly relished4 ,feeling sure we should get carriers here1 we took no supplies with us1 so are now eating the best we can get1 doing ,banting to perfection4 ,a number of men have been sitting all day about the house making spears1 the jawbone and tusks of the wild boar being the only implements4 #ahth4--,thermometer at sunrise #gj degrees4 ,a number of ugly painted and feathered fellows came in this morning on their way to the village in the valley4 ,the people here are much darker than the coast tribes1 and their hair is woolly4 ,joe said on arriving here1 ,hallo1 these people same as mine1 hair just the same4 ,they are scarcely so dark4 ,a few are bright- coloured1 but all have the woolly hair4 ,a goodly number suffer from sores on feet and other parts of body4 ,their one want is a tomahawk4 ,the people seem to live in families4 ,we had a good supper of taro and cockatoo1 the latter rather tough4 #aith4--,the carriers have not yet arrived4 ,in the evening a woman shouted and yelled2 all rushed to their spears1 and there was great running1 snorting1 and blowing at some imaginary enemy4 ,after the chief came in1 we lay about the fire for some time2 then to our blankets4 ,i was beginning to nod1 when some women in a neighbouring house began giggling and laughing4 ,our friend wakened up and began talking4 ,i told him to sleep2 he answered1 ,kuku mahuta1 7,smoke1 then sleep74 ,he had his smoke1 and then began reciting4 ,i remember1 as a youth1 being told1 when ,i could not sleep1 to repeat a psalm or paraphrase1 or count one hundred to myself1 and ,i should soon drop off4 ,this fellow repeated aloud and he must have been going over the mythologic lore of his family for very many generations1 and yet he did not sleep4 ,at last1 a smoke1 beginning with a scream of kuku4 ,now1 surely sleep2 but no1 he changed to a low monotonous chant1 so grating on the sleepy man's nervous system that it would have driven many desperate4 ,at last1 in the morning hours1 the notes became indistinct1 long pauses were observed1 and1 finally1 ,i fell asleep4 ,the women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills4 ,yesterday one woman had two large kits of taro1 and a child of about two years on the top of all4 ,ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and one bird of paradise to-day3 the latter must be eaten with the best of all sauces--hunger4 ,the natives pick up heads1 legs1 and entrails1 turn them on the fire and eat them4 #bjth4--,yesterday evening1 about six1 the carriers came in with great shouting1 and glad was ,i to see my lad and companion ,maka then4 ,great was the joy at the division of salt and tobacco4 ,before we came here the women and children slept in the bush at night1 the men in the village4 ,they are at enmity with the natives on the flat across the ravine1 and it seems that sometimes they get a night visit1 and may lose a man4 ,for the last two nights the women have been in the village1 but every sound heard causes a shout4 ,last night1 when just getting off1 they came rushing up to our house1 and calling on us to get up with our guns1 as their enemies were coming4 ,only fire off one1 and it will frighten them away4 ,we told them to go and sleep1 and not be afraid4 ,the state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is truly pitiful2 to him every stranger seeks his life1 and so does every other savage4 ,the falling of a dry leaf at night1 the tread of a pig1 or the passage of a bird all rouse him1 and he trembles with fear4 ,how they relish salt6 ,the smallest grain is picked carefully up4 ,fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity4 ,never have ,i seen salt-eating like this2 only children eating sugar corresponds to it4 ,here as in all other parts of ,new ,guinea--it is not the most powerful man who fights and kills most1 but little abominable sneaks1 treacherous in the extreme4 ,since our arrival here we find the thermometer from #hb to #hd degrees during the day1 and as low as #fh degrees1 more frequently #gj degrees1 during the night4 ,by bearings we are only about twenty miles in straight course from ,port ,moresby4 ,tree houses3 #aja4;jpg #bast4--,the village is built on the ridge1 the chief's house right on the high end and looking east1 our small house close by on the side of the others1 on each side1 leaving a pathway in the centre4 ,at the very end of the ridge is a house on a very high tree1 used as a look-out house and a refuge for women and children in case of attack4 ,there are quite a number of tree houses in the various villages on the ridges seen from here4 ,the people are anxious to get ,maka1 a light-coloured and very fine- looking native lad1 married to one of their girls and settled down amongst them4 ,i said to our ,african1 ,they want ,maka to marry one of their girls4 ,joe1 ,i suppose1 felt slighted that he too had not an offer1 and he replied1 ,well1 sir1 in ,madagascar1 a very big chief was real anxious ,i marry his daughter2 fine-looking girl2 he make me chief1 and give me plenty land2 far cleaner people than them be4 ,i find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east end of ,new ,guinea--nose and stomach pointed to4 ,they speak of a land1 ,daui1 with which they are friendly1 a very long way off4 ,daunai1 of ,orangerie ,bay1 is called ,daui in some places4 ,to their tree houses they have ladders with long vines on each side to assist ascent4 ,our delay here will help us to know the people4 ,i have just been showing them the likenesses of two young friends1 and the excitement has been great1 men1 women1 and children crowding round1 thumb in mouth1 scratching and shaking heads1 and leaping and screaming1 coming again and again to have a look4 #bbnd4--,a number of strangers slept1 or rather made a noise all night in houses close by1 and amongst them a spiritist1 whose hideous singing and chanting of revelations was enough to drive one frantic4 ,we tried to quiet him1 but it was of no use--silenced he would not be4 ,a man sitting by us when having morning tea asked for some of the salt we were using4 ,we told him it was not salt1 but sugar4 ,he insisted it was salt1 and we gave him some on his taro4 ,he began eating1 and the look of disgust on his face was worth seeing2 he rose up1 went out1 spat out what he had in his mouth1 and threw the remainder away4 #bcrd4--,cannot get the natives to move2 they say they are tired1 and will have to rest until to-morrow morning1 and they are also afraid of their enemies4 ,the excitement is great1 but what it all means is difficult for us to say4 ,noon3 all have cleared out with spears1 clubs1 and shields1 two men having been killed in a village near1 and they have gone to get hold of the murderers if they can4 ,dressed in their feathers and fighting gear1 with faces streaked1 they do certainly look ugly4 ,after being some time gone1 they returned1 saying the enemy1 who were from ,eikiri1 had gone off to the back mountains4 #bhth4--,left this morning1 and had to carry our things1 no natives accompanying us4 ,when about four miles on1 we met natives who willingly took our bags and accompanied us to ,uakinumu4 ,the travelling was not so bad--a good deal of descending and ascending4 ,oriope1 the old chief1 was delighted to see us4 ,his wives and children have gone with great burdens of betel-nuts and taro to trade at the seaside4 ,the old fellow goes with us4 ,we are now #aecj feet above sea-level1 east-by-south from last camp--,mount ,owen ,stanley due north4 ,oriope is ,mr4 ,lawes's great friend4 ,he used to live in ,munikahila1 but trouble through marrying a wife has sent him in here4 ,he seems greatly attached to ,ruatoka4 ,he is a terrible talker1 long-winded and deafening4 #bith4--,we had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping-quarters on the top of a rock4 ,the house1 being open all round1 felt exceedingly cold when the fire went down4 ,the people here seem much lighter than at the other place1 and the children have a more pleasant expression4 ,basaltic rocks lie scattered about in every direction4 ,we had our flag flying1 and the admiration was great1 the natives viewing it from underneath then from a distance1 and in each position noticing something new4 ,about half-past eleven we left4 ,the old chief and four carriers went with us4 ,after crossing the head of the ,munikahila ,creek we passed through fine thickly- wooded country1 that may yet become a very extensive coffee country4 ,after travelling for some hours1 we camped #ahjj feet above sea-level4 ,on the way the carriers struck and were for going back1 but we insisted on their going on a little further4 ,strange formation of country all around here4 ,this ridge seems alone in a large basin1 one side of which is bare perpendicular rock4 ,there is a good quantity of cedar1 but so difficult to get away that it would never pay to work4 ,we are north-east from ,uakinumu4 #cjth4--,we started late1 continued our journey along the ridge1 rising gradually to #bbej feet1 and then along a fine level country for some miles1 when we began to descend4 ,soon our old friend began shouting1 and received an answer from a village a long way off4 ,close by us was a very steep descent1 down which we went till we came under the shadow of a great rock1 where we rested1 and in about an hour up came ten natives unarmed1 touched our chins1 and we theirs1 then all squatted to smoke4 ,one of them1 some time ago1 had been to the coast1 and knew ,rua2 his joy at now seeing him in here was great4 ,a shot had been fired at a cockatoo before they heard the shouting1 and they were much afraid4 ,when all seemed satisfied1 and the crust of the news broken1 ,i proposed a start1 so up bundles1 and away we went4 ,when having gone about two miles1 there was a halt in an open space1 and we were given to understand we must camp there4 ,i could not agree to it1 ,we must go on to the village4 ,no1 you must stay here4 ,we cannot2 we must go on4 ,if you go on you will be devoured by the boroma badababa 7great pig74 ,i insisted upon going on2 they called to those in the village1 and on being answered we again went on for about half a mile1 when every bundle was put down and a halt called1 and again we had to listen to the unintelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy us4 ,we sat down and tried to get them to see as we did1 that a house was necessary for our comfort4 ,a thunderstorm was working up1 and soon the rain would be down on us--let us be off for the village4 ,they had a long confab with those in the village on the ridge1 which1 when ended1 seemed favourable2 and so up the steep side of the ridge we went4 ,when halfway up they halted1 and wanted us to camp under the shelter of a great rock4 ,seeing some young men with bundles rounding the rock1 ,i joined myself to them1 and away we went1 followed by the others to the village4 ,under the first house in the village sat a man1 with a large pig standing by him1 which he was clapping and scratching1 as if to keep it quiet2 and as we went along we saw great pigs under the houses4 ,certainly they were savage-looking pigs4 ,we were given an open house1 and the rain was coming on4 ,i was ascending1 when it became necessary to spring from a pig that was after me4 ,is this ,goldie's big beast the natives told him of8 ,this is a fine country4 ,we passed through large plantations of yams1 taro1 sugar-cane1 and bananas4 ,during the evening we had crowds of men and lads--no women or children--to see us4 ,some are quite light copper-coloured1 others are very dark2 nearly all are dressed with cassowary feathers2 many with ruffs round their necks made from these feathers4 ,there were none very tall1 but all seem well-built men1 with good muscle4 ,they have the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel- chewing as at ,kerepunu4 ,some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones are well carved4 ,they are a very noisy lot2 one would think they were trying to see who could speak the loudest4 ,they tell us it is impossible to cross to the other side1 as further inland the ridge ends--and there is nothing but bare broken rook--inaccessible all round4 ,the majority of the men are bearded and moustached1 and have cassowary feathers like a pad behind1 on which they sit4 ,they dress with a string4 ,the demand for salt is very great2 grains are picked up1 and friends are supplied with a few grains from what they have got for taro4 ,the name of the place is ,kenagagara1 #ahaj feet above the sea-level1 ,e4,n4,e4 from ,uakinumu4 #cast4--,great crowds of people keep going and coming4 ,we spent a miserable night4 ,our old chief1 ,oriope1 had a conclave round the fire1 and it took him all night to recount the doings of the ,naos 7foreigners71 not forgetting the toilet4 ,at times he waxed eloquent1 and the whole gully rung again4 ,it was useless telling him to be quiet4 ,all men and lads have the nose and ears pierced4 ,a number of women and children are about4 ,some of the women are fine1 tall1 muscular1 and clear-skinned1 as light-coloured as ,eastern ,polynesians4 ,the children are lithe1 blithe1 and hearty--some very dark and some very light4 ,the women have brought large quantities of taro for salt4 ,oriope is very sleepy1 and ,i have every now and again to wake him up1 so that to-night he may sleep soundly1 and not prevent our sleeping4 ,my name here is ,oieva--that of the fine-looking old father of the village4 ,at present ,i am all alone the others being out after birds4 ,the natives are very friendly4 ,they relish salt and ginger1 which ,i have tried with them1 and which they pronounce good4 ,ruatoka and ,maka have returned2 they shot a pig1 which the natives who accompanied them cooked and divided1 to be carried in4 ,the excitement is great over the division1 and the whole assembly are shouting2 those from the hunt recounting the day's proceedings1 acting the shooting of the pig1 to the intense delight and amazement of the others4 ,they eat flesh nearly raw4 ,a pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off2 then division is made1 then re-divided1 and eaten4 ,they take a piece between the teeth1 hold with one hand1 and with a bamboo knife cut close to the mouth4 ,a bird is turned on the fire a few times1 then cut up and eaten4 ,august #ast4--,left this morning to look for a track4 ,we passed through a fine large village about one mile from here1 and were joined by sixty men1 all armed with spears and clubs1 and faces painted4 ,they accompanied us for about four miles1 and then turned away to the south4 ,we continued on the ridge for some miles further1 until we could see that all round were great inaccessible mountains with bare faces4 ,it begins with the ,astrolabe1 extending west until ,vetura is reached1 and then away east by south until the centre of the range is reached4 ,in some places it has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet2 in other places it is broken rock with bush growth1 and only at very long distances can tracks be found1 and even then it is difficult to get up4 ,we descended to the river1 a large one1 flowing west1 through great rocks1 often lost1 sometimes only pools appearing here and there until1 some distance down1 and when eight hundred feet above sea-level1 it comes out a fine and flowing river4 ,we had a good bath1 and1 of course1 the inevitable kuku1 and then skirted the side of the ridge1 passing close by and under great rocks and overhanging cliffs1 and up a most extraordinary steep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations4 ,weary1 we sat down and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock4 ,this ,west ,indian long breakfast goes well when thirsty and hungry4 ,the natives who accompanied us1 having caught a large rat and frog1 turned them on the fire and ate them4 ,a truly wonderful country6 ,what terrible convulsions of nature there must have been here ere these great boulders were displaced and rolled about like mere pebbles6 ,the villages are so built that they are accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks4 ,we saw no game of any kind1 yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near1 as every one of the natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs made from the feathers4 ,our highest ascent to-day was to #bcfj feet above the sea-level2 we call it ,mount ,bellamy2 it stands out alone1 and from it we saw the ,astrolabe1 ,vetura1 and ,munikahila4 #bnd4--,we left this morning for a pig and cassowary hunt1 but were unsuccessful4 ,we bagged four cockatoos1 one green parrot1 one brueros1 and three pigeons4 ,of my travelling in this land1 to-day beats all2 it was along mere goat tracks1 on the edge of frightful precipices1 down precipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges1 on hands and knees at times1 hanging on to roots and vines1 and glad when a tree offered a little rest and support4 ,i gave it up at last1 hungry and weary1 and let the others proceed4 ,i stayed with a party of natives who were getting a kind of large almond with a very thick fleshy rind1 the nut inside very hard1 which they broke open with stones1 filling their kits with the kernels4 ,they call the nut okari4 ,they fed me with sugar-cane1 taro1 and okari1 and then got leaves for me to rest on4 ,they had all their arms handy2 ,i was1 as ,i am always1 unarmed1 and felt thoroughly comfortable with them4 ,only once in ,new ,guinea have ,i carried a weapon1 and then we had spears thrown at us4 ,i consider a man safer without than with arms4 ,the return home was frightfully steep and trying to wearied and hungry folks4 #crd4--,youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday1 making head- dresses4 ,they take the feather1 strip it down1 throw the quill away1 fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together1 dry in sun1 then bind round their combs4 ,one youth is preparing a head-covering from the bark of the mulberry3 he is making native cloth by chewing the bark1 and no wonder he complains of his jaws being sore1 for it is a long job4 ,i gave the children presents of beads this morning1 and some of the old gentlemen objected1 saying they ought to have had them2 but ,i did not understand them4 ,it is very convenient at times not to understand what is said--it is thoroughly native4 ,we have been asking them if they will receive teachers1 and they all say yes1 and at once1 for it means tomahawks1 knives1 and salt4 ,they say1 ,to-morrow we'll all go and get the two teachers at ,munikahila and bring them here now4 ,we here are in excellent health and spirits2 a little disappointed at not being able to cross4 ,certainly we have not lived on the best1 and we have camped anywhere4 ,i like these mountaineers--free1 independent1 and kind4 ,when they cook taro1 if near1 we get a hot taro to eat1 and often they bring hot taro to the house4 ,they bring their presents of taro and sugar-cane and at once walk away4 ,they have very good houses1 thatched with grass1 some with a verandah on two sides1 and all built six feet and more from the ground4 ,when we were away yesterday1 a wild boar from the bush took possession of the village4 ,often when the natives are in the bush they have to seek refuge in climbing trees from the savage tuskers1 especially if they have been speared1 and are determined to fight4 ,our flag is flying1 to signify that it is resting day4 ,the natives very seldom bury their dead1 leaving the body in a house set apart for it1 which they often visit4 ,when a number of deaths take place1 they leave the village and settle somewhere else not far off4 ,there is one grave here1 near to our house1 on which a tobacco plant is growing1 a bamboo pipe1 the property of the deceased1 alongside1 and a few sticks on end with yams on top4 ,when they do bury1 the body is placed standing in the grave4 #dth4--,we left ,kenakagara this morning1 accompanied by natives4 ,our friends soon left us1 and we lost our way1 and after some hours' travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded by precipices4 ,it has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance1 trying hard to get to the south-west4 ,at last1 wet through and thoroughly tired1 we camped to have breakfast1 dinner1 and supper in one4 ,we were ten hours on the tramp1 and carrying our bags1 so feel ready for a night's rest4 #eth4--,we see where we are2 but how to get out is the problem to be solved4 ,ruatoka has gone to look for a track4 ,we had a fine night1 a roaring fire at our feet1 and so enjoyed sleep4 ,camping this way is preferable to living in native huts1 far more comfortable and enjoyable2 but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives4 ,uakinumu bears south-west-by-west from us now1 and could be reached in a few hours1 if only we could get down the precipice4 ,rua has returned4 ,when some distance off1 he heard cooeying1 and responded1 when our old friend1 who had been looking for us in a great state of fear1 shouted his name4 ,rua told him to follow1 and he did so1 arriving at the camp soon after4 ,he was so excited he could not speak1 but embraced us all round1 and then sat down4 ,after breakfast1 we set off1 each carrying a bundle4 ,the travelling was difficult1 until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and up to ,uakinumu4 ,when on the spur1 the old man shouted for the youths to come and help us2 they cooeyed back1 and we hoped to see them in about an hour1 or at the most two hours2 after waiting and no one coming1 we descended1 and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly along and saying others were following4 ,i felt sure they delayed their coming to meet us until we should be near the village1 where they would take the bags and receive tobacco and salt2 but they were sold2 we trudged on1 and would not let them have a bag4 ,we took no notice of those we met1 and to their solicitations asking to carry bags we turned a deaf ear4 ,the chief's eldest son came along and begged to have my bag4 ,no1 on no condition4 ,the poor old chief was in a sad state2 but as we are likely to require their services some future day1 it is necessary to teach them that for work or service they will be paid1 but for skulking1 and hoping to get tobacco and salt1 their hopes are futile4 ,we reached the village1 and ,oriope did all he possibly could to keep us4 ,no1 on we will go2 his sleepy boys may sleep on4 ,we gave him and his little grandchild who accompanied him presents1 bade him good-bye1 and away4 #fth4--,here1 and in all the villages we have been1 we have seen very few women and girls1 and very few of the young men seem to be married4 ,do they kill the girls when born8 #gth4--,left this morning for a mountain close by1 hoping to see the windings of the ,laroki from it4 ,we had to descend #ajjj feet1 and then ascend #ahjj4 ,from the droppings about1 ,i should say the cassowary and pig abound in the gullies about this mountain4 ,we found on the top a deserted village and five cocoanut-trees4 ,we could make nothing of the ,laroki1 because of thick bush on top4 ,we saw that the ,munikahila creek flows west and south1 until1 due north of this1 it turns sharp and flows north-by-east and falls into the ,goldie4 ,we reached camp with thoroughly whetted appetites1 and enjoyed breakfast and dinner of pigeons and taro4 ,we call the mountain ,mount ,elsie4 ,it is north of ,vetura1 and west and south of ,keninumu4 ,we have seen four new villages close to one another where a teacher could work well4 ,we have now five positions for teachers1 and ,i hope before we have finished with this inland trip to have thirty1 giving four and five villages to each teacher4 ,in crossing one of the spurs1 a native and his son brought us bananas1 and water in a bamboo4 ,it is difficult to drink out of a bamboo4 ,place the open end to the mouth1 raise gradually1 look out1 here it comes--steady4 ,ah1 too much raised2 it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking you4 ,try again--well1 a little better1 yet far from perfect4 ,choking1 are you8 ,never mind1 practise1 and you will soon be an expert--a native in drinking1 truly4 ,the natives have been having a feast4 ,they began with boiled bananas and finished with a large snake cooked in pots4 ,it was cut up and divided out amongst all--sixteen eggs were found in her1 a little larger than a good-sized fowl's egg4 ,they seemed to relish it much1 and the gravy was much thought of4 ,they say pig is nothing compared to snake4 ,ah1 well1 tastes differ4 #ith4--,we had a few noisy strangers in the village1 and they seemed to be anxious that all they had to say should be heard in every house4 ,the conversation is kept up by the inmates of the various houses1 and at times all are speaking and trying to drown one another4 ,a lull comes1 and you fancy the turmoil is ended1 and so roll on your side for a sleep2 but1 alas1 it was only drawing breath1 the noise being perhaps worse than before4 ,our chief and his wife had a quarrel over something or other last evening4 ,of course the woman had the best of it4 ,strange1 she said very little1 but that little seemed to be to the point4 ,every now and again he would shout1 ,pirikava6 pirikava6 pirikava6 7,dear me6 dear me6 dear me671 and then scream and rage4 ,the wife would then laugh at him1 which made him worse1 screaming and dancing more than ever4 ,she would then say something1 which he would answer1 and so quieted him down a little4 ,all have gone hunting to-day--men1 women1 and children1 pigs and dogs4 ,before leaving1 they told us if we saw any one sneaking about1 we were to be sure to shoot them2 but if they came up openly to us1 and pointed to the nose and stomach1 they were friends1 and had come for salt and tobacco4 ,we get our water in canvas bags1 and teachers or missionaries coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from the very best canvas4 #aath4--,a number of natives have gone to ,port ,moresby1 to help ,rua and ,maka with tomahawks1 salt1 c4 ,after they left1 we went to the bush1 and cut down a number of trees for posts for a house4 ,the chief1 ,poroko1 has given us land1 at an elevation of #abfj feet2 splendid view all round2 and if not healthy1 ,i know not where to go1 unless it be to the top of ,mount ,owen ,stanley4 ,there will be plenty of room for taro1 sugar-cane1 and coffee plantations4 ,a woman often passes us with a frightful load of taro and sugar-cane on her back1 and on the top of all an infant in a net basket4 ,she goes to the next house1 swings the infant kit off first1 placing it on the ground1 where the infant in it kicks and rolls1 but cannot get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed4 #adth4--,this morning1 after an early breakfast1 we started with the ,port ,moresby natives for ,munikahila1 they being anxious to secure a supply of betel-nuts to return with4 ,have promised our old friend ,oriope of ,uakinumu1 before we started on the ,eikiri trip1 that if he led us across and gave us bearers1 all should have tomahawks1 knives1 etc4 ,he did not carry out his part1 and the bearers from him returned1 leaving us inland4 ,i was anxious to pay them for what they did1 so we went on there with tomahawks1 tobacco1 and salt4 ,we were about two miles from the village1 when we shouted1 and were replied to1 and soon four young fellows came rushing along1 in a great state of perspiration and very excited1 rubbing our chins and throwing their arms around us1 highly delighted that we had returned4 ,they were not going to serve us as they did the last time4 ,we reached the village1 and were seated with strangers and surrounded by old friends1 when ,oriope1 who had been on his plantation1 came along to where we were1 nearly breathless1 and streaming with perspiration2 he threw his arms around me1 embraced me1 rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine1 sitting down and not speaking for some time4 ,when he began1 he said he was afraid we were terribly offended1 and would not return2 but1 having returned to him1 we must stay4 ,no1 we cannot2 we must return to ,keninumu that night4 ,ah1 he could manage it2 he would have us tied1 and so detain us4 ,four coast natives who knew the ,koiari language were with us4 ,we told our old friend we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts1 and that he had better set out at once for them4 ,soon the women and lads were off4 ,we then removed to our old house on the rock1 and there told him1 through the interpreter1 what we had expected of him1 and that he had not done it1 but that having told him we should pay them1 we had come now to do so for the journey made4 ,we gave our tomahawks1 tobacco1 and salt1 and the old man was truly delighted1 saying1 ,i and my people will take you wherever we may go with safety4 ,he does not go to sea on the other side1 as ,mr4 ,lawes supposed1 and says it is impossible to cross over unless we go up by ,yule ,island1 and there he says it is dangerous1 because of the cannibals4 ,in returning1 ,i saw1 for the first time in ,new ,guinea1 a bush of the real ,south ,sea ,island kava 7,piper methysticum74 #agth4--,we have just had a service1 and through ,kena we have told the natives the object of our coming and staying1 that they might know of the true ,god1 and of ,jesus ,christ the ,saviour4 ,it was interesting to mark the different expressions on their faces as they heard for the first time of ,god--the ,god of love1 and that as ,his servants we were here4 ,when told of the resurrection they looked at one another2 some laughed1 others seemed serious4 ,they were very particular in their inquiries as to the name of the ,great ,spirit1 and of ,his ,son--forgetting1 and returning to hear it again4 #ahth4--,here we are at ,uakinumu for another trip2 but alas1 alas6 cannot get carriers4 ,the young men are all off wallaby-hunting1 so we must start4 ,this evening1 a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs1 which were cooked in the bamboos1 then spread on leaves2 some salt was dissolved in the mouth and squirted over all1 and it was amusing to see the gusto with which men1 women1 and children partook4 ,oriope is very persistent in wanting a teacher4 ,he was greatly delighted when ,i gave him a large knife2 he examined it all over1 then pressed it with tender affection to his bosom4 ,fearing lest some friends who are with him at present might ask it from him1 he returned it to me1 requesting me to keep it until they left4 #bjth4--,last night1 after turning in1 ,i heard a peculiar noise1 as of some one in great distress1 then loud speaking in a falsetto voice1 and knew then what was up--we had a spiritist in the village1 and revelations were now about to be made4 ,we were all named1 and the places we were to visit4 ,i felt somewhat anxious as to the revelation1 for if it should be the least doubtful as to our going1 no native would stir with us4 ,however1 the revelation1 on being interpreted to us by ,kena1 was all right2 we were good men1 and kind1 and the villages would all willingly receive us4 ,the spirit dilated at length on the good qualities of foreign tobacco and the badness of the native stuff1 and wound up by asking for some foreign4 ,oriope at once got up and gave from his own stock what was wanted4 ,these native spiritists are terrible nuisances2 they get whatever they ask1 and the natives believing so thoroughly in them1 they have the power of upsetting all arrangements and causing serious trouble4 ,this morning1 ,i found our spirit friend to be a man who sat in our house all day yesterday1 a stranger from an inland village4 ,he has quite a different look from the other natives--an anxious1 melancholy expression4 ,while at morning coffee1 he came and sat down alongside of us all right1 and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceased friend comes into him1 and then things are revealed1 the spirit speaking through him4 ,he says1 when we were at ,eikiri1 a few weeks ago1 he knew it1 and told the people of his village of it4 ,the wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies4 ,when sitting round the fire with our old chief1 we asked him if he knew of any tailed folks about inland4 ,oh dear1 yes4 ,and then he gave us a perfect and laughable description of what must be some creature of the monkey tribe4 ,it climbs1 laughs1 and talks a peculiar language of its own2 it scratches the head1 slaps the thigh1 and sits down to eat like a man4 ,i then said1 ,but they are not really men8 ,well1 not exactly1 but very near it2 they are hairy all over1 and some are perfectly black4 ,the tail1 according to his description1 must be about a fathom long4 ,we are to see them1 and must1 he says1 secure one or two1 dead or alive4 ,our spirit is out in his prognostications1 the wallaby-hunters have not returned1 and we cannot leave to-morrow4 #bast4--,our spirit friend is quite out as yet1 for here we are nursing ,patience1 and trying to make her a dear friend4 ,we are promised a start to-morrow4 ,in the evening1 the hunters came in with large supplies of wallaby4 ,they report innumerable horses and foreigners as having gone to ,kupele2 we suppose it to be ,goldie's party4 ,from to-day's shooting1 the old man got a green parrot1 and devoured it raw4 ,oriope dressed himself in his fighting gear1 and went through a few antics2 he looked a perfect fiend4 ,he is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece broken off2 he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in a neighbouring village4 ,he killed him4 ,what1 stand before me6 #bbnd4--,i was eating a banana this morning1 when ,i was told not to throw the skin away1 but hand it to them1 which ,i did1 when it was passed round and kissed by all with short ejaculations4 ,i asked what it meant1 and was told it was their manner of thanking the spirits for ripe bananas4 ,we started at eight a4m4 with eight carriers and our old friend1 and twenty inland natives returning home with wallaby2 one poor woman had two large kits on her back1 and an infant in another1 hanging in front of her4 ,we were seven hours on the tramp1 along a good path1 on which horses could get along well4 ,the most difficult ascent was shortly after we left ,uakinumu2 but the path was good4 ,the last hour of travelling was in a thunderstorm1 with a regular tropical pour of rain4 ,when we neared the village ,marivaeanumu1 the men came rushing out with their spears and shields1 thinking it was an attacking party2 but on seeing ,maka1 who was just behind the first native1 and ,i following up1 they shouted out1 ,nao1 nao6 7foreigners71 and ran back with their spears4 ,the village is small1 and the houses very dilapidated2 it is #ahjj feet above sea-level4 ,maka was buying taro with salt1 and having finished1 some natives noticed damp salt adhering to his hand2 they seized the hand1 and in turn licked it until quite clean4 ,grains of salt falling were sought for and picked up4 ,the shields here are the same as at ,hood ,bay1 beautifully made4 ,they are going to fight soon with another district1 and are making great preparations in spears1 clubs1 and shields4 #bcrd4--,our spiritist gave us a very short and indistinct seance last night4 ,a man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt1 near the ,laroki1 he told us1 was dead4 ,he seemed to be raving a great deal1 and wound up the first part with1 ,nao kuku daure 7,foreign tobacco is bad74 ,continuing to rave and disturb sleep1 ,i told ,oriope that1 if that spirit did not at once go back where it came from1 ,i should certainly have to make it2 he reported what ,i said1 and the spirit thought it advisable to leave4 ,we started this morning after a good breakfast1 and had good travelling across a fine level country ,e4,s4,e4 for about four hours1 crossing several times the head of the ,laroki3 it is a magnificent country for horses4 ,in somewhat thick scrub1 a youth met the first of our party1 and was fraternizing very feelingly with them3 ,i appeared1 and he took to his heels1 and no calling of friends or foreigners could bring him back4 ,we came suddenly upon a woman and two children1 and1 poor things6 they went into a terrible state2 nothing would comfort them2 beads1 tobacco1 and salt lost their charm on them4 ,the family pig was with them2 it danced1 grunted1 advanced1 retired1 and finally made at me4 ,in the morning ,i took a piece of plaster from my heel1 and threw it into the fireplace2 instant search was made for it by about a dozen natives2 it was found1 and handed back to me1 they making signs that ,i should throw it somewhere else4 ,yesterday morning ,i unthinkingly put the loose hair from my comb into the fire1 and great was the outcry4 ,we are now in ,nameanumu1 in the ,sogeri district1 and in a fine house twelve feet from the ground4 ,we are about #aecj feet above sea-level4 ,teachers here need have no difficulty about food2 there is a great abundance all round of taro1 banana1 sugar-cane1 and bread-fruit4 ,a teacher with some go in him1 and a good earnest wife to help him1 would do well here4 ,i am inclined to think an easier way here will be from ,moumiri2 but we have to travel with natives where they can take us with safety to themselves4 ,sitting round the fire a little while ago1 our spirit friend having just left us1 an old woman shouted out to ,oriope to look out1 as the spirit was about to go through the thatch near to where he was sitting4 ,instant search was made1 but nothing found4 ,she then called out from her verandah that it had gone1 as ,rua and ,maka were doing something with their guns4 ,i may say the old woman was with us last night1 and heard my threat4 ,we have had the description here of some other animal that is in the ,kupele and ,moroka districts4 ,it is a dangerous one to go near1 and several have lost their lives from it4 #bdth4--,very heavy rain4 ,a number of people have come in from the villages to have a look at us1 so ,i have to go through the process of baring arms and chest4 ,this forenoon they described an animal to us that ,i think must be the tiger--a long animal1 with a long tail and large paws1 treads lightly when seeing its prey1 and then bounds upon it1 tearing the bowels out first4 ,they say they are as long as the house--twelve feet4 ,we are not prepared to tackle such1 customers4 ,our host is a quiet man1 with a very pleasing expression of countenance4 ,i like the people much1 and pray ,god the day is near when they shall have the ,gospel preached unto them1 and receive it1 and know it to be the power of ,god unto salvation4 ,evil spirits reign over them1 and the utterance of every rascally spiritist is thoroughly believed4 ,they seem very much attached to their children1 and in their own peculiar way1 ,i dare say1 love their wives4 ,husband and wife meeting after a separation is strange4 ,some who returned with us had been away for a fortnight2 their wives looked pleased when they saw them1 so did the husbands2 not a word was spoken1 only a look2 clubs and spears were put down1 and the husbands went to where other men were sitting1 the wives to light fires and cook food2 when cooked1 the wife took it to the husband1 who ate a little1 gave away some1 and then went and sat by his wife4 ,i have noticed that the wives are particularly happy when preparing this return food4 ,oriope's wife1 who accompanied us1 is ill with a cold2 ,i wished her to take a dose of chlorodyne1 but she cried and hesitated much2 the old man then took the cup and told her to look2 he drank some of it1 said it was not bad1 and then pressed her to drink it off1 which she did4 #beth4--,we left this morning at eight1 and arrived at ,orofedabe1 in the ,favele district1 at one p4m4 ,the walking was good and steady1 the first few miles along the valley beneath a mountain in the ,sogeri district1 which we called ,mount ,nisbet1 and the range near to ,eikiri4 ,we crossed the ,laroki several times1 and sat near its head2 then ascended an easy ridge of the ,owen ,stanley ,range4 ,we travelled for about two hours along this ridge1 then descended1 crossing two streams1 which we suppose to be the head streams of the ,kemp ,welch1 flowing into ,hood ,bay4 ,there are six small villages on ridges close by1 high mountains all round1 and not far off the mountain on which the wild animal lives4 ,they tried to persuade us that this was ,meroka1 and there was no use our going further2 but we could not believe it1 and ,i brought my compass out1 and pointed to them where ,eikiri1 ,sogeri1 ,kupele1 and ,hapele were1 and told them where ,i expected to find ,meroka1 which cannot be very far off4 ,when they saw ,i knew something of our position1 they said we could not get to ,meroka1 because of rocks and wild beasts4 ,at the village we slept the last two nights they did all they could to detain us1 because of the salt and beads4 ,they were assisted by ,oriope1 who was anxious that all should go to his cousin and friends1 with whom we were staying4 ,in a conversation they had under the house1 shortly after we arrived1 ,i could hear sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us there1 and not let other villages get salt and beads4 ,i got thoroughly vexed with the old man1 and told him he could return home1 and that unless we saw numerous villages with plenty of people we should not again return here4 ,he turned right round1 and told us we should see ,favele and ,meroka1 and many villages1 only we must return to his cousin's2 that was all right1 we certainly should return4 ,this morning1 ,i told him to remain and take care of his wife2 that the people here would lead us and carry our things4 ,he begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure our return1 and ,i did so4 ,some of the people here are very dark and others very light4 #bfth4--,they tried hard to prevent our going to ,meroka this morning1 saying we should be eaten by the ,jakoni 7wild beast7--and how could they return8 ,that would not do--go ,i must2 so ,i got the things out1 and asked some ,meroka natives1 who had come in1 to pick them up and let us start4 ,they refused1 and joined in with our friends1 saying we had better remain4 ,no2 ,i must see ,meroka1 and until ,i saw it not a taro would be bought nor a pile of salt given4 ,they all sat down1 looking true savages4 ,after some time1 ,i said1 ,meroka1 or we return at once4 ,i got my bag and went on to the path2 they got up1 and called to me to come back--they would go to ,meroka1 but leave the things1 and return here to sleep4 ,no2 ,i must have the things2 ,i might want to sleep at ,meroka4 ,that was terrible1 the salt would be finished1 and there would be none for them here4 ,would ,i not consent to their taro being bought1 and then they would go with me8 ,no2 ,meroka first1 and taro when we return4 ,seeing there was nothing for it--that go ,i would--they consented1 and the ,meroka folks picked up the things1 and away we went4 ,it was a short walk across the side of a ridge1 down about #fjj feet and up to #aejj1 and then along another ridge4 ,we soon had crowds to see us1 men1 women1 and children2 and all were delighted1 for we bought their taro4 ,the village we stayed at was new1 and they told us formerly they lived further in on the mountain1 but a man was eaten by the ,jakoni1 and they came down4 ,a number of natives were in mourning for the man eaten4 ,after some time1 we got up to ascend the ridge1 to have a good view of the villages and decide on our position4 ,they tried hard to prevent us1 but we went on1 a few following to the next village4 ,they pretended great fear of the ,jakoni1 and at some places begged of us to tread lightly1 and not to speak4 ,it was all a ruse to get us back4 ,we went on1 and up to the highest village1 where we had a splendid view4 ,we counted fourteen villages on the ridges in the ,meroka basin and on the other side of the river we had crossed1 and as many more known as ,havele4 ,i believe it would be much easier to get here from ,eikiri than from ,sogeri4 ,the natives of ,oriramamo1 the highest village1 told us they went from there to ,eikiri in one day4 ,the people of ,meroka are very mixed1 some very dark1 others very light4 ,some of the women had quite an ,eastern ,polynesian look2 some of the children were well-formed1 and really pretty4 ,a few men had light-coloured whiskers2 curly heads abounded1 although a number had straight hair4 ,they say they are not ,koiari4 ,the ,koiari comprises ,munikahila1 ,eikiri1 ,sogeri1 ,taburi1 ,makapili ,pakari2 and ,eikiri is ,n4,w4 from ,oriramamo2 ,mount ,bellamy is ,w4,n4,w4 ,a high round mountain1 ,i have named ,ben ,cruachan1 east2 ,mount ,nisbet1 ,w4,s4,w4 ,the high rock on the easterly side of ,mount ,nisbet is just over the house where we slept1 and will be known in future as the ,clachan4 ,they say there are five kinds of wild animals on the mountains at the back1 and but for these they could easily cross to ,kupele4 ,the ,jakoni1 ,gomina1 and ,agila are very large and fierce4 ,the ,papara and ,gadana are small1 but fierce4 ,we were eating biscuits1 and they begged for a very small piece each1 to keep as a charm to help them catch pigs4 ,hairs from the beard are in great demand as charms4 ,having seen all we wanted1 and not being able to persuade the natives to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals1 ,i decided to return to ,orofedabe2 so we returned to the village1 gave the taro we bought to the people1 paid our attendants and for the house where our things were1 and away we went4 ,our friends were glad to see us1 and rejoiced greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt1 and taro was bought4 ,we are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon4 #bgth4--,maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger2 the natives tried it and failed2 again ,maka did it1 and all who were looking on came to the conclusion it was very easy for him to do1 as a spirit held it for him4 ,in each place we have been1 when at prayers1 all the natives are most respectful1 keeping perfect silence and bending their heads4 ,we had a fine tramp back to-day1 and a refreshing bath in the ,laroki after it4 ,we have paid our carriers1 and they are rejoicing greatly4 ,we were glad to find our old friend and his wife well1 and the things we left just as we hung them up4 ,they are very anxious to have teachers here4 ,we were telling them that we could see no people1 and they have gone and brought in great crowds1 saying1 ,no people6 what are these8 ,i cut up tobacco and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd1 and called out1 ,for ,sogeri4 ,one of their number was appointed by them1 and he distributed it1 all sitting quietly round4 ,i got some salt in a paper1 and did as with the tobacco4 ,all rose1 and in order approached1 took some and retired1 leaving the remainder1 nearly half1 for a very old man4 ,the beads ,i gave to the women1 the men saying they ought to have had them too4 ,come and live with us2 there is no place like ,sogeri--it is good1 it is large1 it is peaceful1 and there is plenty of food4 ,so say the ,sogerians4 ,i was sitting on the ladder of the house1 the crowd sitting round4 ,rua was in the bush with his gun2 he fired at a bird1 and it was amusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd when they heard the shot4 #bhth4--,last night1 a chief1 ,biaiori1 of ,eribagu1 slept in the house with us1 to be ready to lead us to his village and other villages about in the morning4 ,we started about half-past seven2 but it was evident at the start he had been talked over during the night in quiet whisperings1 so as not to take us anywhere but his own village4 ,we walked about a mile and a half1 and came to his village1 in a fine dry position1 much preferable to the one we had left--good houses1 one house floored with cedar slabs1 and having a fine verandah all round4 ,i wished to see a chief ,i had met yesterday1 ,jaroga1 and was told he was at the next village1 so we up with our bundles and away for about half a mile further on1 to a nice clean village4 ,i at once asked ,jaroga to lead us to the places he named yesterday2 he was quite willing1 and began pointing in the various directions1 and naming the villages1 but was soon silenced by signs and words from others2 he then said he could not go2 so we left to go to ,epakari2 a young man very much attached to ,maka1 and who has been with us for ten days1 having promised yesterday to lead us there4 ,we had to carry our bags--not a very agreeable job4 ,we had great excitement at leaving1 our old chief insisting on our going back to ,uakinumu2 but we had discarded him1 and were determined to find our own way should ,someri1 ,maka's friend1 fail us4 ,i gave orders to keep a good look-out on ,someri1 who was carrying a bundle1 and he was given into ,maka's care4 ,our young friend was very quiet1 and tried skulking behind and moving on fast ahead4 ,when crossing a ridge about three miles from the village1 ,i was leading1 when we heard ,maka calling for ,someri4 ,rua at once returned1 and found the bird had flown1 leaving the bundle1 but carrying with him the camp tomahawk1 which ,maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stick with4 ,it would be folly to return to get the tomahawk1 so we kept south and west for some distance1 when we came to a deserted village2 then we turned west4 ,we crossed the ,laroki several times before we came into the open country2 at our last crossing we met a company of natives1 all armed1 on watch for ,makapili natives1 who were expected to attack them4 ,they took our bundles1 and led us to a small village1 where we met some of our ,marivaeanumu friends1 who led us to their village and to our old house4 ,a young child called ,maka was presented for presents1 the father telling ,maka he called the child after him1 because he was his friend when we were here last4 ,we have now the open country before us1 and expect no trouble in getting along4 ,the natives are all unsettled at present1 and every man we meet is armed4 ,i can see the country better to- day than when here last week4 ,marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hills of ,eikiri and north-north-west from ,sogeri4 ,the latter district is in a valley between the ,owen ,stanley ,range and ,mount ,nisbet1 to the south-west of it4 ,eribagu would make a good station for the ,sogeri district4 ,this place would be a suitable station being at the head of the plain that reaches away to the ,astrolabe on the one side1 and up to ,vetura and ,uakinumu on the other1 stretching east by ,mount ,nisbet1 and away east and south1 by the country at the back of ,mapakapa4 ,the ,laroki rises in the ,owen ,stanley ,range1 and is the drain for the ,sogeri district and all the plain2 it is very circuitous1 and near here very deep and slow1 flowing west4 #bith4--,for nearly six hours we have been travelling with our bags1 and ,i can honestly say ,i feel tired4 ,we are now at a new village--the houses just going up--on the top of the high green hill in front of ,munikahila1 overlooking the ,kupa ,moumiri valley4 ,the village is named ,keninumu1 and consists of four houses at present1 two on high trees and two on high rocks4 ,we have pitched our tent close by1 and intend resting until ,monday1 when we hope to start for the plain--a very fine country1 but no natives4 ,this part of the plain is dry and barren1 with stunted gum-trees4 ,a party met us when near the village1 and a woman with a child on her shoulder1 ,i suppose seeing me look tired1 insisted on my giving her my bag4 ,i looked at the child1 and wondered how she was going to manage1 but that was soon arranged2 she made the child sit on her left shoulder1 holding her by the hair2 then she took my bundle1 and away she went4 ,some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish to visit1 and ,i hope to keep them until we leave2 it will be a help and of great value as an introduction at this time of trouble4 ,we are #addj feet above sea-level4 ,a fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at ,moumiri1 and natives from all the districts round were present4 ,a native of ,munikahila speared a man from ,tabori1 who died soon after1 so now ,makipili1 ,epakari1 and ,efari are said to have joined on with ,tabori1 and unitedly mean to attack ,munikahila4 ,all the natives condemn the murder of the man1 because of the time and place4 #cast4--,natives all excitement1 expecting ,munikahila to be attacked4 ,every evening the men go armed to ,munikahila1 and the women1 children1 dogs1 and pigs to the bush4 ,i am sorry our ,keninumu friends should consider it their duty to assist the murderers4 ,the natives of the district to which the murdered man belonged are quietly biding their time1 hunting wallaby close by us4 ,the kind woman who assisted me the other day has a son by her first husband living at ,keninumu1 and for a long time she has not seen him1 he being afraid to come here4 ,she knows that ,maka was returning yesterday1 and felt sure her son would accompany him4 ,when some distance from here1 ,maka fired a shot1 to let us know he was coming1 to which we responded1 assuring him all was right4 ,on hearing the shot1 the poor woman became quite excited1 came and sat down by our fire1 got up and got us firewood1 sat down again1 telling ,kena to get the taro cooked for ,maka1 rose again and fetched more firewood1 then sat down in front of the path1 looking steadily and anxiously for the travellers4 ,poor body6 they came in sight1 but her son was not one of them4 ,she seemed to feel it very much1 rose1 went to her house1 and was not seen again until this morning4 ,god grant the day is near when the song the heavenly host sang1 ,glory to ,god in the highest1 peace on earth and good will toward men1 shall be known and enjoyed here6 ,september #ast4--,we left this morning at seven o'clock and drew up at ,makapili at four p4m41 resting by the way4 ,for salt1 tobacco1 and beads1 we had help all the way4 ,what appears a fine level plain in the distance turns out to be a fine country1 full of ridges and luxuriant valleys1 abounding in every kind of native vegetable4 ,from the departure this morning until our bringing-up we could have ridden horses at a fine canter along the ridges from one to another4 ,this is the best country ,i have yet seen in ,new ,guinea1 and the natives seem very kind and friendly4 ,at the ,laroki we had to strip1 and1 just above small rapids1 holding on by a long line fastened to poles on each side1 we crossed over4 ,the natives have the line to help them when the river is up4 ,we called at several villages on the ridges1 passed others1 some on large table-rocks4 ,fancy a table-rock with twenty or thirty houses on it4 ,at ,chokinumu1 a village #afjj feet above the sea1 ,s4,e4 from ,marivaenumu seven miles1 we alarmed the people so that they rushed away1 leaving us the village4 ,shortly a man came back1 pretending to be very unconcerned1 chewing betel- nut2 we soon were friends1 and he called out to the others1 and they returned4 ,we told him where we were going1 and he said he and his wife would accompany us1 as we were the first foreigners who had ever been to his village1 and he would not leave us4 ,at other villages they also cleared out1 screaming terribly4 ,gimenumu1 #aijj feet above sea-level1 and two miles east from ,chokinumu1 will make a fine mission station--a large village1 fine plantations1 and plenty of water4 ,we crossed several streams from the ,astrolabe ,range1 all flowing into the ,laroki4 ,the whole drainage of the ,astrolabe ,range and of this country falls into the ,laroki4 ,we are now in ,vaiako1 ,makipili district1 #bbej feet1 in a really lovely spot4 ,there are a great many natives in this district4 ,about four miles from here we passed a deserted village on a table-rock1 at one time the home of this people2 but the ,sogeri natives came over and killed eleven of them1 and the others thought it time to settle somewhere else4 ,we have now a splendid view of ,mount ,owen ,stanley1 due north of us1 and rising far away1 clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud4 ,mount ,bellamy stands alone1 with a bare south-east side1 and ,mount ,nisbet just across from here1 behind which is ,sogeri1 so much dreaded by this people4 ,on all the ridges stretching away to the eastward from here behind ,kapakapa are natives4 ,a woman1 coming to have a look at us1 spied our black dog1 ,misi ,dake1 and off she went1 climbing a tree1 kit and all1 quicker than ,i ever saw a native climb before4 ,we met a fine old patriarch in a stream about two miles from here1 and the meeting with our friend from ,chokinumu was most affecting1 touching chins and falling into one another's arms weeping4 ,he sat down beside me with grave dignity1 and the woman from ,chokinumu sat in front of him1 chanting and weeping4 ,we had strawberries coming along1 with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry4 ,the raspberry bush is very abundant4 #bnd4--,just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the tent to have a peep at us4 ,at eight o'clock1 we started for the summit of the ,astrolabe1 to have a look at the sea4 ,it is very broken on the summit1 and we had a good deal of ascending and descending before we got over ,kaili1 to be disappointed in not seeing the sea1 the fog hanging thick under our feet4 ,we returned by a very circuitous path1 passing several villages built on rocks and trees4 ,on one large table-rock was a snug village1 and to the east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved4 ,on feast days1 the food is collected close to these1 and a platform is fixed to the posts1 on which dancing takes place4 ,we returned at three p4m4 ,the old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large present of food1 and saying he hoped we would soon return4 ,i hope the same4 ,after some delay1 so that it might not appear as payment for the present1 we gave our present to the old chief2 when he got the tomahawk1 he wept for joy1 looked at his friends1 then at us1 pressed it to his bosom1 and then kissed it4 ,the chiefs name is ,kunia4 #crd4--,we left ,makipili this morning at eight o'clock1 and came along leisurely1 arriving at ,chokinumu at half-past ten4 ,the chief and his wife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night in their village1 and1 seeing it would displease them if we went on1 we consented4 ,we had a thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon1 after a very hot sun1 the thunder rolling all round us4 ,the chief ,lohiamalaka and his wife are exceedingly kind and attentive2 they have kept close by us since we left here on ,monday4 ,i am sorry for the ,makipili people2 they are so afraid of ,sogeri1 that they have left their houses1 and are living in the bush and under the shelter of rocks4 ,sogeri1 ,makipili says1 will listen to no conditions of peace4 ,several overtures have been made1 but all are useless4 ,we were told at several places that if we ventured to ,makipili we should never return2 but we have been there1 were treated kindly1 and pressed to return4 #dth4--,using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our tent1 they got so wet that it required a day to dry them1 so we decided to remain here and visit the ,laroki ,falls4 ,ten days ago1 we found from the natives that they were near here4 ,the native name is ,round4 ,we found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west end of ,astrolabe and east end of ,vetura ,range4 ,on each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down1 in many places precipitous rocks4 ,the falls are ,e4 from ,port ,moresby1 ,e4,s4,e4 from ,moumili1 and ,s4,e4 from ,vetura proper4 ,they are grand1 and well worth seeing4 ,i wish we had seen them from below4 ,for a long distance up there are small falls and rapids4 ,the water comes surging on1 and then takes a fearful leap of many hundred feet on to a ledge1 and from there to the boiling cauldron below4 ,the noise is deafening4 ,where we stood1 nearly level with the water1 it was #acdj feet above sea-level1 and ,i do not think that from there to the cauldron could be less than #ijj feet4 ,i think it may be possible to get to them from the north side by ,mangara1 and then we can rightly tell the height of the falls4 #eth4--,left ,chokinumu this morning at eight1 and had a pleasant walk for three hours1 ascending gradually the ,astrolabe until we reached the summit at the back of ,tupuselei1 #bcjj feet high4 ,we were resting before descending1 when a native party appeared and approached us1 somewhat scared4 ,they said on coming up they heard the noise as of chopping wood 7we were marking trees74 ,they came on1 and saw through the bush a white man1 and at once went back2 then1 hearing as if natives were with him speaking in ,koiari1 they returned and determined to meet4 ,they were much pleased at receiving a present of salt4 ,we descended on the west side of the ,astrolabe2 the descent1 being steep and difficult1 took us some time4 ,in the afternoon we arrived at ,janara1 near to ,efari1 at the back of ,pyramid ,point1 the ,astrolabe bearing north4 ,our friend ,lohiamalaka1 the chief of ,geminumu ,monito1 and three youths are with us4 ,i have never met a kinder and more friendly native than ,lohiamalaka4 ,janara is a good large district1 and seems to have a number of natives4 ,the village we are in is #fjj feet above sea-level4 ,tupuselei is the nearest mission station1 and a teacher placed here or at ,efari would have constant communication with that place4 ,i was the first to enter the village4 ,they had heard us cooeying to one another2 so only saw one man1 and he tried to look very unconcerned1 with a bamboo pipe1 trying to light it1 but too excited to succeed4 ,the women had shut themselves indoors with the children1 and the men had gone into the bush close by with their weapons4 #fth4--,from ,janara to ,epakari there are several steep ridges to go up and down1 and the last ascent is truly steep4 ,it took us three good steady hours' walking and climbing to get to ,karikatana1 the first of six villages in this district4 ,dawes and ,stone were at a village1 ,i believe1 on a ridge nearer to ,port ,moresby4 ,the chief1 ,nikanivaipua1 received us graciously1 and insisted on our taking his house4 ,we paid off our friends1 and they departed well pleased4 ,we received presents of cooked food and smoked wallaby4 ,they were prepared for us1 having been shouted to an hour before we arrived at the village by our friend ,lohiamalaka4 ,the village looks to be in a fine healthy position1 close to the west end of the ,astrolabe1 the high bluff bearing ,n4,e4 ,they have plenty of all kinds of food4 ,we crossed from the ,janara1 a good-sized mountain torrent flowing ,s4,w4 to ,bootless ,inlet4 ,we are #gjj feet high4 ,high bluff of ,astrolabe1 ,n4,e42 ,bootless ,inlet1 ,s4,s4,w42 peak of ,astrolabe above ,kaili1 ,e4,s4,e4 #gth4--,our friend ,lohiamalaka turned up again last evening2 he did not like leaving us4 ,this morning he really set off1 promising to visit us at ,port ,moresby in ,october2 that is1 not this moon1 nor the next1 but the one that follows4 ,i asked for a little ginger to eat1 and they have brought it me in bundles4 ,it is really good when green1 with salt4 ,a large number of natives attended our service1 and were truly orderly--not a whisper1 and during prayer every head bent4 ,on the ,astrolabe1 the other day1 ,lohiamalaka said he felt anxious for us in entering ,janara4 ,rua1 through ,kena1 told him not to fear anything on our account1 as the ,great ,spirit was with us1 and no harm could come near us4 ,last evening1 he was telling the people here of his fears1 and what ,rua said1 and how true it was the ,great ,spirit or something is with them4 ,at all the villages ,lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of what he had been told1 and of our singing and praying4 ,every evening he would sit at the tent door and get us to sing for the benefit of a crowd of natives outside1 who1 having heard from himself of our musical powers1 refused to go to their homes at sunset1 and insisted on remaining until after noko 7singing74 ,when the ,koiari visit the coast they go in for begging largely1 and they generally get what they ask1 as the ,motu people are very much afraid of their spiritual power1 they being thought to hold power over the sun1 wind1 and rain1 and manufacturing or withholding the latter at will4 ,when the ,motu people hear that ,koiarians are coming1 they hide their valuables4 ,all the young swells here have head-dresses of dogs' teeth1 got from the seaside natives4 ,at ,eikiri1 they told us they got theirs by killing and stealing4 ,we can truly say we are under arms in this house--sixty-two spears overhead1 four shields on walls1 and two stone clubs keeping watch at the door4 ,a ,makipili woman has been telling ,kena how she happens to be here4 ,formerly her people and these were at enmity4 ,makipili sought peace1 but had no pig4 ,she was selected to supply want of pig1 and taken with food4 ,when she grew up1 the old man 7not her husband7 insisted on her living with him4 #hth4--,we had six hours' good walking1 and are now encamped under the shade of ,vetura4 ,the country from ,epakari to here is very ridgy1 and1 after leaving the ridges of ,epakari1 very barren4 ,coming suddenly on a large party of men1 women1 and children returning from a dance1 they were so frightened when we called out1 ,naimo6 that they set off1 kits1 spears1 and drums1 and no fine words would bring them back4 ,we have seven natives with us2 the old chief says he must see us safe to ,keninumu4 ,we passed a fine village--,umiakurape--on a ridge west of ,karikatana2 the chiefs name is ,vaniakoeta4 ,it would make a splendid station4 ,the high ridge at the back of ,epakari1 along which we came1 is #ajjj feet high1 and from it we saw ,fisherman's ,island1 ,redscar ,bay1 ,bootless ,inlet1 and the whole coast east to ,round ,head4 #ith4--,arrived at ,keninumu at half-past ten a4m4 ,found all well4 ,the natives are constantly on the look-out for the ,tabori attack on ,munikahila4 ,we hear the ,munikahila natives have been stealing from ,goldie4 #adth4--,since our return we have been house-building1 but are getting on very slowly4 ,i fear we are six weeks too late for the ,kupele district1 and shall have to leave it for another season4 ,it would be awkward to get in and not get back until the end of the wet season4 ,i find our friend the chief1 ,poroko1 has had two wives2 one he killed lately4 ,she was in the plantation1 and some young fellows coming along1 she sat down with them to have a smoke and get the news2 ,poroko heard of it1 and on her coming home in the evening he killed her4 ,a woman at ,favelle said1 ,oh1 the ,koiari man thinks nothing of killing his wife4 ,the word for sneeze in ,koiari is akiso4 ,when they are leaving for a journey or going for the night they call out kiso1 and often from their houses they shout their good-night to us1 kiso4 ,there is a woman in deep mourning for her daughter4 ,she has hanging round her neck all the ornaments once the property of the deceased1 and along with them the jawbone4 ,the headless body she visits occasionally1 and rubs herself all over with the juice from it6 #ahth4--,we have a great crowd of natives in from ,kupele1 the nearest district to ,mount ,owen ,stanley4 ,they are the same race of people as at ,meroka--some very dark1 others very light-coloured4 ,their weapons are the same as the ,koiari1 as also is their dress4 ,two men are in mourning1 and are wearing netted vests4 ,the chief is rather a fine-looking fellow1 and dressed profusely with cassowary feathers4 ,they all have a wisp of grass bound tight at one end1 and hanging from a girdle behind1 to be used as a seat when they sit down4 ,it is a stretch of imagination to say it looks like a tail4 ,they are very anxious we should accompany them on their return1 and say they will show us plenty of villages and people4 ,yesterday we had great feasting in the villages on yams and taro4 ,to an ,eastern ,polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast1 seeing there was no pig4 ,in the evening we had a good deal of palavering with spears and shields1 fighting an imaginary foe1 and at times retreating4 ,their movements are swift and graceful3 advance1 retreat1 advance1 pursue1 ward off to the right1 to the left1 shield up1 down1 aside1 struck on knee1 a shout1 all gone through1 with the greatest alacrity1 and ,i am not at all astonished at so few being killed or wounded in a fight4 ,they value shields that bear the marks of spears4 #aith4--,our old friend ,oriope came in to-day1 and handed us the tomahawk1 stolen by the deserter on our last trip4 ,he says when he heard how ,someri had served us he sent at once to ,sogeri1 and got the tomahawk1 telling them it was very wrong to steal from such dear friends of his4 ,one of the ,kupele natives stole a knife1 but he had to give it up to the ,keninumu friends1 who returned it to us4 ,i should have liked to have started a station at ,chokinumu1 so as to try the climate of both sides of the district this wet season4 #bcrd4--,we find it impossible to get the men to help us with the house whilst so many of us are here1 so we return to the port1 hoping to get into ,chokinumu soon4 ,the people1 seeing that we are really going1 have begged hard for ,jakoba to be left1 and they promise faithfully to assist him in finishing the house4 ,jakoba being anxious to remain with them1 ,i consented4 #bdth4--,arrived at ,moumiri about two p4m4 ,we heard there that ,tabori and ,makipili have been murdering4 ,a number of people from ,marivaenumu were here wallaby-hunting1 and on returning were met2 three women and two men were killed4 ,they report here1 also1 that ,kupele proper 7a small village7 no longer exists2 the ,koiari to the west of us having gone over and killed all but five1 who have gone to another village4 #bfth4--,returned to ,port ,moresby to-day1 and found all well1 and good news from all the stations4 ,the services have gone on here in ,rua's absence with great success4 ,on two ,sundays the chief ,poi conducted the services1 addressing those present1 and telling them he thought that now it was time for them all to receive the ,gospel which had been so faithfully taught them during these years2 in prayer he remembered us who were inland1 and asked our ,father in heaven to watch over us and bring us back safely1 and to enlighten all of them at the seaside4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,peace-,,making4 ,mr4 ,chalmers asked by the natives to go to ,elema--,native fears--,difficulties at the start--,namoa--,delena--,a ,motumotu trading canoe--,interview with ,semese1 chief of ,lese--,christian natives--,friendly meeting with a war canoe--,arrival at ,motumotu--,friendly reception--,viewing ,mr4 ,chalmers's feet--,natives in full dress--,sunday open-air service--,sago as an article of commerce--,peace agreed upon--,return to ,boera4 ,when at ,kabadi in #ahhj1 the natives begged of me to endeavour to prevent the ,elema natives paying them another visit1 as they were now living in the bush near the hills4 ,all along the coast the people were much afraid1 expecting a raid1 and at last news came in from ,maiva that ,motumotu and ,lese were making great preparations that they would visit ,motu1 kill ,tamate and ,ruatoka1 then attack right and left4 ,last year1 when leaving1 they said they would return and pay off accounts1 kill the foreigners first1 then all the natives they could get hold of4 ,under these circumstances1 ,i resolve to visit ,motumotu1 and beard the lion in his den4 ,i did not believe they would touch me1 but ,i feared they meant mischief to ,kabadi and the coast villages4 ,no time could be lost1 as we were in a bad month for rain and storms1 and the coast line is long and bad4 ,the natives said it was too late1 yet ,i resolved to try it4 ,on the #eth ,january1 #ahha1 we opened the new church at ,port ,moresby1 and baptised the first three ,new ,guinea converts4 ,the church was crowded1 and all seemed interested4 ,i arranged for ,piri and his wife to accompany me to the ,gulf1 they taking the whale-boat4 ,we cannot call at ,kabadi on our way down1 as we must hurry on1 but our natives here were going to ,kabadi1 and gladly took the news4 ,on ,january #aj1 the flag flying on the boat told all that we were to start4 ,our leader ran off to ,kaili last night1 but ,huakonio1 one of the three baptised on the #eth1 was willing to go4 ,our boat's crew were considered fools1 rushing into the arms of death4 ,wives1 children1 and friends were gathered round weeping4 ,the men said1 ,cannot you see that if ,tamate lives we shall live1 and if he is murdered we shall be murdered8 ,it is all right2 we are going with him1 and you will see us back all right with sago and betel-nuts4 ,huakonio told me in the boat that every means imaginable but physical force were used to prevent their accompanying me2 and he added1 ,we know it is all right2 the ,spirit that has watched over you in the past 7naming the various journeys7 will do so now2 and if we return safe1 won't the people be ashamed8 ,we left ,port ,moresby about nine a4m4 with a light head wind2 outside found the current very strong1 setting easterly4 ,we arrived at ,boera at four p4m41 and found ,piri and his wife ready to start at once4 ,piri has a ,boera crew1 and we increased ours here by two4 ,here the natives did not seem at all afraid1 and many wished to accompany us4 ,on leaving ,boera1 it was a beautiful clear and moonlight night1 and there was a light land breeze4 ,pulling brought us to ,varivara ,islands1 in ,redscar ,bay1 about two a4m41 where we anchored until six when we tried to make ,cape ,suckling4 ,as it was blowing hard from the north-west1 we had to put into ,manumanu4 ,the ,motu traders did all they could to persuade us to give up ,motumotu1 and to visit ,kabadi4 ,both crews would gladly have given up2 their friends told them to leave us1 and return in the trading canoes4 ,they came to me to say the bad weather has set in1 the winds and rains are here1 we cannot go on4 ,i replied1 ,think1 my children1 of the disgrace4 ,we started to go to ,motumotu1 and at the first breath of contrary wind we put back4 ,it must not be4 ,let us try it a little longer1 and if the wind increases we can put back1 and not feel ashamed4 ,you are right1 they rejoined2 we will go on with you4 ,at sunset we all got into our boats1 and were ready for a start4 ,a fellow who has just returned from ,kabadi thought to get over me by saying1 ,tamate1 ,kabadi are looking daily for you1 and they have a large present ready2 feathers in abundance and sago2 your two boats cannot take half4 ,i am going to ,motumotu1 and not all the feathers in ,kabadi1 nor all the sago they can prepare1 will turn me now1 until ,i have made a fair trial1 and then1 if driven back1 ,i will visit ,kabadi4 ,i believe our crew had had a talk with that man before he came to me4 ,it was five o'clock on ,january #abth before we got to ,namoa1 near ,cape ,suckling4 ,maiva canoes passed with wallaby from ,namoa4 ,when ashore1 cooking breakfast1 ,koloko and her husband1 with uncles and aunts1 and men and women from the village1 came down4 ,the two former were going to ,maiva1 and the crowd followed to see them embark in one of the large ,maiva canoes4 ,after the bamboo pipe had been passed all round1 the embarkation took place1 men and women weeping as if taking a final farewell4 ,when they had gone1 we told the people we wished to sleep1 and they left us undisturbed4 ,in the afternoon we came to ,delena1 where we had right hearty welcome4 ,they are truly glad we are going to ,motumotu1 as they fear an attack1 and hope our visit will benefit them4 ,they feel sure ,motumotu will receive us well1 and seeing that ,i specially visit them1 they say it will be all right4 ,the crews feel encouraged1 and are at present ashore feasting on dugong1 sago1 and betel-nuts4 ,some have been off for tobacco1 and are now laughing at the folly of their friends4 ,the sorcerer is not in ,delena2 but even he would do nothing to prevent our going on4 ,we are all ready to start with a land breeze4 ,the crews have sent us word1 ,when you wish to start1 call out2 you will see us gladly spring into the water4 ,on leaving ,delena with a light breeze and pulling1 we reached the ,kaveri beach near ,cape ,possession1 about eight a4m4 ,when near ,maiva1 we met a ,motumotu canoe4 ,at first they were afraid to come alongside of us1 but after a little talk we got near them1 exchanged presents1 and were soon friends4 ,they seem glad we are going to their home2 they say peace will be arranged4 ,the ,motumotu have said that if we only were to visit them1 they would gladly make peace4 ,it seems that they are very badly off for uros 7earthenware pots71 and the native tribes along the coast to the west of them are crying out and blaming them for the scarcity4 ,they are certainly blaming the right party2 but for ,motumotu1 the ,pari1 ,vapukori1 ,port ,moresby1 ,boliapata1 and ,boera trading canoes would all have been down the coast last season4 ,the principal man in the canoe1 knowing that all1 except our boatman1 ,bob ,samoa1 had friends at ,motumotu1 made friends with him1 rubbing noses and handing his lime gourd1 which is to be shown on arrival1 and his father and friends will receive ,bob as his friends4 ,they go on to ,lolo in quest of uros4 ,we landed to cook food4 ,on awaking from a sleep1 ,i was astonished to find a crowd of natives close by1 and my friend the ,kaveri chief1 ,arana1 sitting near me4 ,two boys1 who were on the beach fishing1 seeing us land1 ran inland and reported1 and he1 with two of his wives carrying food1 followed by men and women from the villages1 came down4 ,his two wives are now busy cooking1 and he is trying to persuade me to call on our return and get his present of sago and food4 ,i could not promise1 and he seemed disappointed4 ,we left the ,kaveri beach and pulled round ,cape ,possession1 passing close in by ,oiapu4 ,a heavy sea was rolling in1 and a canoe putting off to us was swamped4 ,people running along the beach called on ,piri and me by name to land and feast1 but our crews were too frightened1 and we went on4 ,when off ,jokea1 men1 women1 and children all came on to the beach1 and also by name begged of us to land4 ,we would have done so here1 but the sea was too high1 breaking with great force on the fringing reef4 ,several canoes put off1 but only one succeeded in reaching us4 ,they begged of us to call on our return1 and let them know the result of our visit1 and said we had better also visit ,lese4 ,they think our visit will put all straight4 ,motumotu1 they say1 is very undecided as to what to do1 but having heard that ,i was to visit them1 put off the decision for some time1 saying1 ,if he comes1 it will be all right1 and we shall have peace1 but-- ,well1 they did not know4 ,they rub noses all round1 and make for the shore1 we for the harbour at the mouth of ,coombes ,river1 but a very heavy sea running in1 we prefer anchoring outside at midnight4 ,by five a4m4 up anchor1 and away to ,lese4 ,two ,naima canoes returning from ,lolo1 where they had been trying to get uros1 passed close to us4 ,they also are glad of the likelihood of peace and uros4 ,at seven1 we got to ,lese1 and were met by an excited crowd1 the majority armed4 ,we anchored a little out1 and would allow no canoes alongside4 ,i called out for ,eeka1 and a very old man walked into the sea1 when ,i went ashore and took him by the hand4 ,piri and his wife followed1 with part of the crew and the ,boera and ,port ,moresby chiefs4 ,we were led to the village1 the crowd increasing as we went along4 ,piri noticing an enclosed place1 went in to see what it was1 and called me to have a look4 ,i went in1 but no women or youths followed4 ,inside were two large houses1 with rows of masks and hats1 the latter like small canoes1 about ten feet long1 made with very light wood and native cloth4 ,on coming out ,i was seized by the hand by an elderly man1 who1 in a towering passion1 drew me on4 ,all ,i could make out was that somebody was a thief and a liar4 ,the ,boera chief ran up1 and ,i asked him what was wrong4 ,oh1 this is your friend1 ,semese1 the chief you gave the present to when you were last here1 and he is angry with ,eeka for taking you away4 ,tell ,piri to come up quickly4 ,piri1 go with ,eeka as your friend2 give him a present as such2 it is all right4 ,i go with ,semese4 ,soon squatting on the platform1 wrath fled1 and ,i had to wait to be fed4 ,but1 ,semese1 ,i want to press on to ,motumotu and see them4 ,i am afraid of the weather coming on bad4 ,motumotu to-morrow1 ,lese to-day2 you must have a pig4 ,leave the pig for another visit4 ,all was of no avail4 ,a fine pig was speared1 brought and laid at my feet4 ,semese and the people were in the very best humour4 ,eeka was delighted with ,piri1 and the latter had a pig presented to him4 ,we gave our presents1 and1 feeling tired1 ,i suggested to our friends that we had better take the pigs to the other side of the entrance1 to ,macey ,lagoon4 ,semese is quite agreeable1 now the peace is made1 and it was arranged that he and his party should visit me with sago at ,port ,moresby4 ,both pigs1 ready for cooking1 were carried into the boat1 and the excited crowd1 this time all unarmed1 were on the shore to see us off4 ,they promised not to molest ,kabadi again1 and that they considered our visit as peace with all the coast villages4 ,macey ,lagoon would make a splendid harbour for small vessels1 very large vessels not being able to cross the bar4 ,on the eastern side1 a bank runs out for nearly a mile1 on which the sea breaks2 close in by western shore is a good passage4 ,the great work of the day was feasting and sleeping4 ,there were two ,lese men with us1 and they said that the ,motumotu have been talking of war1 not of peace2 but now it may be different4 ,to get into ,motumotu in the morning1 we had come to within two miles of the village1 and we anchored off4 ,notwithstanding some anxiety1 soon all were asleep4 ,the natives were astonished at the beautiful weather1 and said they felt as if all would be right--the great and good ,spirit who had led us so far and safely would not leave us now or on the morrow4 ,at every meal on board or ashore they asked a blessing1 and our old friend ,hula prayed with real earnest feelings4 ,he was certainly in earnest to-night when he prayed for the ,motumotuans1 and that our visit might be blessed to them4 ,i was charmed with his simplicity1 fervour1 and expectancy4 ,this old man1 a few weeks before1 at the close of a meeting at ,port ,moresby1 said1 addressing us-- ,listen1 you think we ,motumotuans are not attending to your words2 but you are mistaken4 ,before you came here1 we were always fighting and were a terror to all1 east and west1 but now it is different4 ,we are at peace all round2 we go about unarmed1 and sleep well at night4 ,soon our fathers' ancient customs will be given up1 and you will see us1 old and young1 coming to be taught the word of the great and good ,spirit4 ,i was aroused about two a4m4 by shouting1 and1 looking over the gunwale1 saw a large double fighting canoe alongside of ,piri's boat1 in which all were sound asleep4 ,on awaking1 they were startled by the appearance4 ,they were asked by those on the bridge-- ,who are you8 ,tamate and ,piri going to ,motumotu4 ,soon all were friends1 chewing betel-nut and smoking tobacco4 ,on each canoe with paddles were over thirty men1 and on the bridge adjoining the canoes were armed men and a large supply of sago and betel-nuts4 ,they were going to ,lese to purchase uros4 ,they came alongside of our boat1 received and gave presents1 and then an order was given by one from the bridge1 and away they went at full speed4 ,it was a pretty sight in the moonlight to see the canoe move swiftly on1 when nearly eight paddles as one touched the water4 ,we rolled ourselves up again for another hour or two's sleep4 ,at sis a4m4 we weighed anchor1 and were off to ,motumotu4 ,there was a great crowd on the beach2 but it was all right1 as boys and girls were to be seen there1 as noisy as the grown-up folks4 ,a chief rushed into the water1 and called on us to come4 ,come1 with peace from afar2 come1 friends1 and you will meet us as friends4 ,we went round and entered the river in deep water1 close to eastern bank near to the village4 ,until we had a talk1 ,i would allow none but ,piri's friend and my friends1 ,semese and ,rahe1 near the boats4 ,they had been told that we were going to fight if they visited us1 and that all women and children were to be sent back to the ,keiara1 and the ,keiari fighting men were to be in league with all the foreigners about4 ,then they heard that ,i had been murdered1 and were terribly sorry2 but now they saw ,i was alive1 and had come a long way in a moon in which neither they nor their forefathers had ever travelled4 ,so now they must make peace4 ,i said1 ,you must not again go near ,kabadi1 and all along the coast we must have peace4 ,it is right1 we shall not again visit ,kabadi4 ,lealea feasted us with pigs1 and pressed us to attack ,kabadi1 to pay off an old attack on them4 ,it suited us1 because ,kabadi thought themselves strong2 but now it is peace4 ,i landed with them1 and went up through the villages1 then returning to the boats we were told to remain there4 ,shortly three pigs were brought1 and our return presents of uros1 etc41 were carried off4 ,bob's calabash has brought him a host of friends4 ,piri is with his friends at one end of the village1 and in the opposite ,i am to reside in my friend ,rahe's dubu4 ,semese is his father1 and a very old man4 ,the number of old men and old women and children is astonishing4 ,no enemy dare come near their villages1 and their houses have never been burnt down4 ,the ,boera chief--a capital fellow to have--speaks this dialect very fluently4 ,our people at first were very much afraid1 but soon settled down1 and are now roving about4 ,suddenly the war-horn was heard blowing--not the pig-horn1 so often heard on the coast4 ,i wondered what was up1 but it turned out to be only the youth training4 ,two new double canoes came down the river with large complements of paddles1 all young lads1 gaily dressed4 ,a number of young men1 painted and extravagantly dressed1 have been here2 they lately killed some ,moveavans1 and are hence greatly admired by old and young4 ,i had to take off my boots and socks1 and allow my feet to be admired1 also to show off my chest4 ,all shout with delight1 and every new arrival must have a look4 ,the sun was frightfully hot4 ,some men were fishing on the breakers2 they had a long post1 with a cross-bar1 on which they stand1 fixed in the sand1 head covered with native cloth1 and bow and arrow ready4 ,a number of people came in from ,vailala4 ,they wish ,i would go down with them1 but it is too late to go so far in an open boat4 ,i have had another meeting with the leading men1 and ,i think all is now peace4 ,my friend ,rahe seems a great personage1 with relatives innumerable4 ,he wants to know if ,i would like to be alone in the dubu2 only say it1 and all the men will leave4 ,i prefer them remaining1 and ,i will make myself comfortable on the front platform4 ,in the evening1 men and women--,i suppose they would say elegantly dressed--bodies besmeared with red pigment1 croton and dracaena leaves1 and feathers of various birds fixed on head1 arms1 and legs1 paraded the villages4 ,at present all move about armed1 and in this establishment bows1 bent and unbent1 and bundles of arrows are on all sides4 ,rahe has just been to me to ask for boat medicine4 ,what do you mean1 ,rahe8 ,i want you to give me some of that medicine you use to make your boat sail4 ,i use no medicine1 only ,motu strong arms4 ,you could never have come along now without medicine4 ,we use no medicine1 and have come along well4 ,i had a splendid night's rest4 ,my mosquito-net and blanket caused great amusement4 ,my attendants are innumerable and attentive1 and will allow no noise near4 ,our service in the morning was very noisy--everybody anxious for quiet must needs tell his neighbour to be quiet4 ,our old ,port ,moresby chief prayed in the ,motumotu dialect4 ,the ,boera chief translated for ,piri and me4 ,they are very anxious to know of the resurrection and where ,beritane spirits go after death4 ,in the afternoon we held service in the main street4 ,the singing attracted a very large and noisy crowd but when our old friend began to pray it was as if a bomb-shell had exploded1 men1 women1 and children running as for dear life to their homes4 ,another hymn brought them back1 armed and unarmed4 ,we had a long talk on peace1 and they wished ,i would go with them to ,moveave1 and make peace4 ,one division of these villages they have simply wiped out4 ,i asked them to leave ,moveave alone1 and when a fit season comes ,i will ascend the river with them1 and make peace4 ,i have visited the party who last week killed several of the ,moveavans1 and they promised not to attack them again4 ,the ,kaback jewellery is about in abundance4 ,semese spoke nearly all the night through1 exhorting all to peace1 and that now we had visited them they ought no more to go about exalting themselves1 fighting with their neighbours1 and speaking evil of their friends1 the ,motuans4 ,rahe has brought his son1 whom he has named ,tamate4 ,i have no doubt he will be an expensive honour4 ,we went up the ,william ,river to-day4 ,at mouth1 on the west side1 are two islands1 viz41 ,iriho and ,biaveveka4 ,between the latter and the mainland is an entrance into ,alice ,meade ,harbour4 ,the river is broad and deep4 ,both banks are lined with sago palms4 ,when a young man marries a young woman1 the custom here is to pay nothing for her2 but for a widow something very great4 ,the people live chiefly on sago4 ,sago is cooked with shell-fish1 boiled with bananas1 roasted on stones1 baked in the ashes1 tied up in leaves1 and many other ways4 ,we have received large presents of sago1 both boats bearing as much as is safe to carry4 ,we leave in the morning4 ,at present a man is going through the streets in great wrath1 having been to his plantation and missed a bunch of bananas4 ,as he moves along he shouts out his loss1 and challenges the thief4 ,we had a gathering of old men until late into the night1 and they closed with a wail1 chanted1 with drums keeping time4 ,hours before daylight ,semese was up1 waiting for me to turn out4 ,we had a fine run back to ,yule1 where1 at sunset1 we were met by a terrific gale of wind and a thunderstorm4 ,we had to put in close to the land1 and for four hours sit it out in a deluge of rain4 ,it was soon inky dark1 the lightning very vivid1 and the thunder deafening4 ,piri's boat anchored close alongside4 ,on the weather clearing up a little1 we crossed ,hall ,sound to ,delena1 where we were soon met by natives carrying torches1 and were led to their houses4 ,a change of clothing1 and we were all as comfortable as possible4 ,we spent the hour of midnight with ,kone and ,levas1 chiefs of ,delena1 telling them of our visit to the west1 and its success in establishing peace4 ,they were greatly delighted1 and will do me the honour of visiting me at ,port ,moresby1 that is1 will relieve me of some tomahawks4 ,with a light wind and a smooth sea1 we had a pleasant run to ,boera1 where we arrived at sunset4 ,there was great joy in the village at our arrival4 ,we reached ,port ,moresby on the #bjth1 and on ,march #fth we baptized ,kohu and ,rahela1 the first two women of ,new ,guinea converted to ,christianity4 ,may they be kept as true ministering women for ,christ6 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,kalo ,,massacre4 ,twelve teachers and their friends killed at ,kalo in #ahha--,the warning--,the massacre--,the fear for the teachers at ,koma--,mr4 ,chalmers's views on the question--,voyage westwards in the ,mayri--,a ,sunday at ,delena--,visit of ,queen ,koloka--,threatened attack by ,lolo natives--,the fight--,peace--,miria's village--,bad character of the ,motu natives--,visit to the chief of ,motu ,lavao--,story of ,dr4 ,thorngren's murder--,peace made with the village4 ,on the #gth of ,march1 #ahha1 the natives of ,kalo1 a village at the head of ,hood ,bay1 near the mouth of the ,kemp ,welch ,river1 massacred their teacher1 ,anederea1 with his wife and two children2 also ,materua1 teacher of ,kerepunu1 his wife and two children2 ,taria1 teacher of ,hula2 ,matatuhi1 an inland teacher2 and two ,hula boys--in all1 twelve persons4 ,the earliest news of the tragedy was given in the following letter from the ,rev4 ,t4 ,beswick1 dated ,thursday ,island1 ,torres ,straits1 ,march #bdth3-- ,on ,friday1 the #dth inst41 ,taria1 our ,hula teacher1 left ,port ,moresby with ,matatuhi1 an inland teacher1 the latter wishing to visit the ,kalo teacher for some native medicine4 ,reaching ,hula on the evening of the #dth1 ,taria heard a rumour that the ,kalo people intended to kill their teacher and his family4 ,accordingly he went thither the following day1 along with ,matatuhi1 and requested the ,kalo teacher and his family to leave at once4 ,the teacher refused to place credence in the rumour1 and even questioned his chief and pretended friend1 who assured him that there was not the slightest grain of truth in the rumour4 ,the ,hula teacher returned1 leaving ,matatuhi behind4 ,on ,monday1 the #gth1 ,taria1 along with five ,hula boys1 proceeded in a boat to ,kalo and ,kerepunu1 with the view of bringing the teachers and their families to ,hula1 on account of the ill-health of some of the party4 ,he called at ,kalo on the way thither1 and apprised the teacher of his intention to call on the return journey4 ,at ,kerepunu he took on board the teacher1 his wife and two children1 and one native youth4 ,the party then proceeded to ,kalo4 ,during the interval of waiting there1 the chief and pretended friend of the ,kalo teacher got into the boat for a chat4 ,on the arrival of ,matatuhi and the ,kalo teacher1 along with his wife and two children1 the chief stepped out of the boat4 ,this was the pre- arranged signal for attack to the crowds assembled on the bank4 ,at the outset1 the chief warned his followers not to injure the ,hula and ,kerepunu boys2 but such precaution did not prevent two of the former being killed4 ,the other four boys escaped by swimming the river4 ,the mission party were so cooped up in the boat1 and spears flew so thickly and fast1 as to render resistance futile and escape impossible4 ,taria resisted for a time1 but a fourth spear put an end to his resistance4 ,the others were dispatched with little trouble4 ,a single spear slew both mother and babe in the case of both women4 ,the only bodies recovered were those of the ,kerepunu teacher's wife and her babe2 the natives of ,hula and ,kerepunu severally interred the two bodies4 ,the rest of the bodies became a prey to the alligators4 ,for the two ,hula boys who were slain speedy compensation was made by the ,kalo people4 ,the whale-boat1 too1 was recovered by the ,hula natives4 ,a ,hula girl3 #afg4;jpg ,the above sad intelligence reached ,port ,moresby at early morn of the #aath1 just as the ,harriet was about to leave for ,thursday ,island1 and the ,mayri about to take me to ,hula1 whilst a party of foreigners were leaving for the ,east ,end4 ,the news1 of course1 upset all arrangements1 and1 after the first moments of excitement were over1 our next concern was about the safety of the two ,aroma teachers4 ,with as little delay as possible1 but with groundless forebodings of coming evil1 a large party of us left for ,aroma4 ,about ten a4m4 of the #adth1 we reached there1 and whilst our three boats lay off a little1 so as not to arouse suspicion1 a teacher and myself went ashore4 ,with devout gratitude ,i heard that both teachers and natives were ignorant of the massacre4 ,in less than an hour the two teachers and their families were safely ensconced in their whale- boat1 taking along with them but a minimum of their property1 according to the orders given4 ,by these means the chiefs and natives of ,aroma were left in utter ignorance as to the cause of our erratic movements1 nor did they seem to suspect anything4 ,at ,kerepunu we experienced considerable noise and worry4 ,here1 too1 we judged it prudent to remove very little belonging to the deceased teacher4 ,at ,hula1 my house had been entered1 but the few things stolen were mostly returned4 ,here1 too1 we have left goods1 until some definite course be decided upon4 ,strange to say1 at ,hula1 where we expected the least trouble and danger1 there we had the greatest2 indeed1 on one or two occasions1 affairs assumed a rather serious aspect4 ,the main idea present in the native mind was to take advantage of us in our weakness and sorrow4 ,after a very brief stay at ,hula1 we left there on the #aeth1 reaching ,port ,moresby the following day2 and on the #agth ,i left for ,thursday ,island4 ,the natives of ,hood ,bay attribute this massacre to the influence of ,koapina1 the ,aroma chief1 he having assured the ,kalo people that foreigners might be massacred with impunity1 citing as an illustration the massacre at ,aroma last ,july1 and pointing out at the same time the great fame that had thereby accrued to his own people4 ,the ,kalo people have not been slow in acting upon his advice4 ,i visited ,hula and ,kerepunu within six weeks of the massacre1 and was so impressed with the peaceful bearing of the people in both places that ,i should have been glad to have re-occupied both stations immediately4 ,i should have visited ,kalo1 but was afraid of compromising the mission1 as it is possible the natives may be punished for the outrage4 ,i fear we are not altogether free from blame2 the teachers are often very indiscreet in their dealings with the natives1 and not over-careful in what they say2 there has also1 perhaps1 sometimes been a niggard regard to expense on our part4 ,a very few pounds spent at a station like ,kalo in the first years would1 ,i believe1 prevent much trouble1 and probably murder4 ,the ,kalo natives felt that ,hula and ,kerepunu got the most tobacco and tomahawks1 and that their share was small indeed4 ,instead of our buying all the thatch required for the other stations--only obtainable at ,kalo--we got the teachers1 with their boys1 to get it4 ,we meant it well1 to save expense4 ,my experience teaches me to throw all ,i can in the way of natives not connected with our head station4 ,at this station--,port ,moresby--for the next few years the expenses will be considerable in buildings1 laying out the land1 and in presents to the constant stream of visitors2 but it will have a ,christianizing and a civilizing effect upon a large extent of country4 ,on the #bdth of ,may1 #ahha1 left ,port ,moresby in the ,mayri1 and1 having taken on board four natives at ,boera1 continued a westerly course1 anchoring next day in ,hall ,sound1 opposite ,delena4 ,early on the morning of ,may #bfth1 ,kone and ,lavao1 our old friends1 came off4 ,they say it is useless going to ,maiva1 as we cannot land2 but we can go and see for ourselves1 and they will accompany us4 ,i had to land to eat pigs1 i4e41 receive pigs and hand them over to my followers4 ,on landing1 they led me up the hill at the back of village1 where ,i was astonished to find a fine tract of land forming a splendid position for a house4 ,kone at once offered me as much land as ,i wanted4 ,after thinking it over on board1 ,i decided on building4 ,i landed tents1 and pitched them on the rise above the village4 ,my experience is that places quite exposed to south-east wind are more unhealthy than swampy country4 ,on ,rarotonga there were more deaths on the windward side of the island than on the leeward4 ,on the ,sunday after landing1 we went down and had service in the village4 ,kone interpreted into ,lolo4 ,when telling the people we had no work for them on ,sunday1 ,kone said3 ,oh6 we know1 and we1 too1 are going to be helaka 7sacred7 to-morrow4 ,i asked him1 ,come1 ,kone1 how do you know8 ,from ,boera4 ,i met a lad repeating the ,lord's ,prayer in ,motu1 and found he had been taught by ,piri4 ,the ,motu tribe has already had great influence1 and will have more and more every year4 ,i have an interesting class of children1 and hope1 before we leave1 they will know their letters well4 ,what nonsense one could write of the reception here--such as ,everybody at service this morning listened attentively2 commented on address or conversation2 children all come to school1 so intelligent1 and seemingly anxious to learn2 and1 altogether1 prospects are bright4 ,at home they would say1 why1 they are being converted2 see the speedy triumph6 ,alas6 they are but savages1 pure and simple1 rejoicing in the prospect of an unlimited supply of tobacco1 beads1 and tomahawks4 ,paura1 a chief from ,motu ,lavao1 is in4 ,the people1 it seems1 told him1 being helaka day1 ,i could not meet him1 and he did not come up hill4 ,he is rather a nice-looking fellow1 with a mild1 open countenance4 ,kone told him to tell the ,paitana natives1 who murdered ,james and ,thorngren1 that1 if they wished peace and friendship1 they must come in here and sue for it2 that ,i could not first go to them1 as they were the offenders and murderers4 ,arrangements were at once made for erecting a wooden house at ,delena1 measuring thirty-six feet by eighteen feet1 material for which was easily procurable4 ,on the #cjth of ,may1 ,queen ,koloka1 her husband1 and a number of men and women came in4 ,the ,prince ,consort first came up1 all over smiles1 followed in half an hour by his wife and maids4 ,after formally receiving her1 ,i presented ,mrs4 ,lawes's present4 ,i unloosed the parcel1 and turned maid-of-honour in real waiting4 ,her ,majesty was chewing betel- nut1 but that did not prevent my putting the dress on2 first attempt all wrong1 the front became the back1 and the back the front4 ,at length ,i succeeded1 and1 after fastening the dress1 tied a pretty kerchief round the royal neck4 ,there was great excitement1 in every mouth a thumb1 a few moments of silence1 and then every soul spoke and shouted4 ,it was amusing to see her husband1 uncles1 maids1 old men and women1 young men and maidens1 gather round the royal presence1 wonder and admire1 and then shout1 ,oh misi haine ,o6 7,mrs4 ,lawes74 ,ah1 ,koloka1 ,i wonder how you are going to get out of that dress to-night2 will you understand buttons1 hooks1 and eyes8 ,during my stay at ,delena1 one of those warlike incursions by hostile tribes so common in ,new ,guinea took place4 ,my presence and influence happily brought about an early and satisfactory settlement of the dispute4 ,i extract the following from my journal3-- ,june #bnd4--,our friends seem troubled1 and their house-building earnestness is somewhat abated4 ,i find they have heard that the ,lolo tribe intend making a raid on them4 ,is it on them1 or on us8 ,their great hope is that we shall use our guns1 and so frighten the invaders4 ,i tell them that we cannot do this2 that we are men of peace1 and have no wish to frighten any one4 ,it seems ,maiva is very disturbed2 they are fighting all round1 avenging ,oa's death1 and may soon be expected here4 ,maiva would not interfere with us1 but ,lolo ,i would not trust4 ,we shall have to keep a good look-out to-night4 ,our friends seem very troubled and excited4 ,i have given warning that any one coming near our camp must call out my name and his or her own4 ,no one can come near without our knowing1 as my terrier ,flora is a splendid watch-dog4 ,this evening1 some women passed camp1 carrying their valuables to hide away in the bush4 ,bob asks1 ,suppose ,lolo natives come to us1 what we do8 ,of course they will not come near to us unless they mean to attack1 and then we must defend ourselves4 ,the guns are ready4 ,it is not pleasant2 but ,i fancy they will not molest us1 so hope to sleep well1 knowing we are well cared for by ,him who is never far off4 ,through much trouble we get to be known1 and the purpose for which we come is understood4 ,a ,hula dandy3 #age4;jpg #crd4--,last night ,i slept lightly1 with ,flora on watch1 and ,bob easily aroused4 ,after midnight he kept watch4 ,we placed the lights beyond tents on each side1 and so arranged that the light would strike on any native nearing camp4 ,about two a4m4 ,lavao's wife ,no4 #b came up with her grandchild1 goods1 and chattels for safety4 ,the ,loloans were coming4 ,all right2 all ready4 ,very loud1 noisy talking in village4 ,at four1 we called out for ,kone1 who came up telling us that we should be first disposed of1 then ,delena4 ,i went to the village1 and saw the old friendly chief from ,lavao4 ,i told him any ,loloan coming over the brow of the hill with weapons we should consider as coming to fight1 and we were ready4 ,at five1 women and children crowded into camp1 with all their belongings1 and asked for protection4 ,certainly2 we shall do what we can for them4 ,men are running all about1 planting arms in convenient places in the bush4 ,we are told to keep a good look-out--and that we shall4 ,it is now daylight1 so we do not care much4 ,the fight has begun in the village4 ,some ,loloans1 running after ,delena natives1 rush uphill2 we warn them back1 and they retire4 ,there is a loud shout for us to go to the village and fight4 ,i leave ,bob with guns and cartridges to keep watch over camp4 ,i have more confidence in the skirmish unarmed1 and have no wish for the savages to think ,i have come to fight4 ,i shout out ,maino1 and soon there is a hush in the terrible storm4 ,i am allowed to walk through the village1 disarm one or two1 and1 on my return to our friend ,kone's end of the village1 he whispers to me1 ,there is ,arua1 understanding him to mean the chief1 or vata tauna 7sorcerer74 ,i recognize in him the man introduced to me on a former visit1 and who in wrath cleared out from my presence4 ,now might be his time to pay me out4 ,i take his weapons from him1 link him on to me1 and walk him up the hill4 ,i speak kindly to him1 show him flag1 and tell him we are maino1 and warn him that his people must on no account ascend the hill4 ,all right1 he will stop the fighting4 ,i sit down to write this1 when again they rush up for me1 saying ,kone was to be killed4 ,leaving ,bob with arms in charge1 ,i go down to the village1 and without my hat4 ,more canoes have arrived4 ,what a crowd of painted fiends6 ,i get surrounded1 and have no way of escape4 ,sticks and spears rattle round4 ,i get a knock on the head1 and a piece of stick falls on my hand4 ,my old ,lavao friend gets hold of me and walks me to outskirt4 ,arua and ,lauma of ,lolo assure me they will not ascend the hill1 and we had better not interfere with them4 ,right1 friend2 but you must stop1 and on no account injure my friend ,kone4 ,it would frighten them were we to go armed to the village2 but then we dare not stay here twenty-four hours after4 ,i can do more for the natives unarmed4 ,i am glad ,i am able to mix with both parties2 it shows they mean us no harm1 and speaks well for the future4 ,no one was killed1 but several were severely wounded1 and a few houses destroyed4 ,they have made peace at last1 and ,i have had a meeting in the village with all2 the ,loloans have promised to be quiet4 ,i told them we could not stay if they were to be constantly threatening4 ,in the afternoon the chiefs came up1 and ,i promised to visit them all4 ,my head aches a little4 ,had ,i been killed1 ,i alone should have been to blame1 and not the natives4 ,the ,delena natives say3 ,well1 ,tamate1 had you not been here1 many of us would have been killed1 and the remainder gone to ,naara1 never to return4 ,there is some pleasure in being of a little use even to savages4 ,the next ,sunday we had a splendid service4 ,all the young fellows dressed for it by painting their faces4 ,it was amusing and interesting to hear them interpret all ,i said from ,motuan into ,loloan2 and when ,i attempted to use a ,lolo word1 they corrected me if ,i wrongly pronounced or misplaced it4 ,after service we had all the children and young men to school4 ,a goodly number have got a pretty fair hold of letters4 ,some would beat native cloth1 and ,kone grew very angry1 and1 because they would not listen to him1 threatened to pull up his recently buried child4 ,i sent word that he must on no account do that1 and must say no more to the men beating cloth2 that by-and-by the people will become enlightened1 and then they will understand the ,sabbath4 ,poor ,kone's idea is that now and at once they should understand4 ,on ,june #fth1 ,i once more left ,delena to proceed to ,maiva1 and1 although a heavy sea was running at the time1 landed safely about eleven a4m4 at ,miria's village1 on the ,maiva coast4 ,i saw a number of people with karevas 7long fighting sticks71 and wondered what was the matter4 ,i said to my old friend ,rua1 who met me on the beach1 ,are you going to fight8 ,no1 no2 it is all right now4 ,i gave him a large axe for ,meauri and party to cut wood for a house at their village4 ,meauri and a number of followers soon made their appearance3 it seemed strange that they should have come down so soon4 ,miria1 the chief1 being away cutting wood1 went to ,meauri's village1 passing through several seaside villages4 ,we selected a new position for the house1 at the back of a large temple2 gave them tobacco and red cloth1 they promising gladly to have wood cut against my next return4 ,sitting on the platform1 ,rua turned to me and asked1 ,tamate1 who is your real ,maiva friend8 ,fancying there was trouble1 ,i replied1 ,oa ,maoni1 who sleeps in that house in death1 was my friend3 ,meauri1 ,rua1 ,paru1 and ,aua are now my friends4 ,i thought so1 and ,miria has no business to build a house for you4 ,before we saw the boat we were down on the beach at ,miria's village to begin a quarrel2 we saw you were coming1 and we waited for you4 ,but ,i want a house on the coast as well as inland2 ,miria's village is small and too exposed1 and ,i must look for another place4 ,that is all right2 but this first4 ,be it so4 ,after visiting three villages ,i had not seen before1 and going through all the inland ones1 ,i returned to ,miria's village2 he not having returned1 ,i went along to ,ereere4 ,after dark1 ,miria came in4 ,he felt sorry when ,i told him ,i could not put a house up in his place1 owing to its being exposed to south-east wind1 and to there not being many people4 ,but ,i have cut the wood4 ,i shall pay you for that1 and the wood can remain for my return4 ,i gave him tobacco for the young men and a present to himself1 and all was right4 ,a few mornings later1 ,i found the natives sitting round rice2 one said1 ,come1 we are waiting for you to bless the food4 ,they have seen our boats' crews of ,botu and ,boera natives always asking a blessing4 ,i said to them1 ,cannot one of you ask a blessing8 ,no2 wait until we learn1 and you will see4 ,a good story is told by the captain of the ,mayri4 ,oa their going to ,aroma to relieve the teachers after the ,kalo massacre1 in the early morning they were pulling along the reef1 and just as the sun appeared over the mountains1 one of the ,motu crew called on all to be quiet1 rowers to lean on their oars1 and then engaged in prayer1 thanking ,god for watching over them during the night1 and praying that ,he would care for them during the day1 and that no unpleasantness might occur with the ,aroma natives4 ,all along this coast1 and right away down to ,elema as far as ,bald ,head1 the ,motu tribe has a wonderful influence1 and in a few years excellent pioneers may be had from it4 ,they must have been a terrible lot in the past4 ,i have heard much from themselves of piracy1 murder1 and robbery1 and all along here they tell terrible tales4 ,a ,motu chief in one of our meetings1 speaking of the past and the present1 concluded by saying3 ,since the arrival of the foreigners 7teachers71 we have changed and will continue to change4 ,an old chief1 ,aiio1 from the ,mekeo district1 came in to see me1 and brought me as a present a splendid head-dress1 which is hung up by ,kone in front of the tent for all to see4 ,on giving him a present of salt1 it was pleasant to see the old fellow's expression of pleasure4 ,he is anxious ,i should go inland as soon as possible2 ,i tell him ,i must wait for tomahawks4 ,at seven o'clock on the morning of the #acth of ,june1 ,i started to visit ,madu1 the chief of the ,motu ,lavao4 ,we went up from the bight1 a large saltwater creek1 with dense mangrove on both banks1--a veritable bed of fever1--and anchoring our boats1 we walked through the deserted village of ,paitana and on for about a mile and a half to ,motu ,lavao4 ,the path leads along a narrow tract of good country1 with dense swamps on both sides4 ,the village is large1 with good houses kept nice and clean2 but ,i can conceive of no more unhealthy locality--swamp all around4 ,a number of people were down with fever1 some in their houses1 others lying exposed to the sun4 ,i asked them if they had no vatavata 7spirits7 knocking around in their district1 and did they not much trouble them4 ,oh1 trouble us much1 very much4 ,i told them ,i thought so1 and the sooner they removed from that place the better--that they were right in the centre of sickness and death4 ,they said1 ,and what is to become of the place of our forefathers1 and the cocoanuts they planted8 ,better leave them1 or in a short time there will be none left to remember their forefathers1 or eat their cocoanuts4 ,madu was in the country1 and we waited his return4 ,he tried hard to get me to stay over-night1 but it was of no use4 ,he presented me with a pig and feathers1 and we concluded friendship by my giving a return present4 ,an old woman was presented to me1 a great sorceress2 but1 not liking the sisterhood1 ,i did not see my way clear to give her a present4 ,such as she keep the natives in constant fear1 do what they like1 and get what they like4 ,it is affirmed by all that the great ,lolo sorcerer1 ,arua1 keeps snakes in bamboos1 and uses them for his nefarious purposes4 ,late in the afternoon we left1 accompanied by ,madu and a number of youths carrying pig1 cocoanuts1 and sugar-cane4 ,when leaving1 the chief said1 ,go1 ,tamate2 we are friends4 ,on ,june #adth1 ,i had a long conference with the old ,paitana chief1 ,boutu1 and his followers4 ,they looked very much excited and alarmed when ,i met them1 but that wore away during our conversation4 ,boutu1 his party1 and other ,lolo natives assured me that the attack on ,dr4 ,james and ,mr4 ,thorngren was unknown to all but those in the canoe4 ,the excuse was that the day before they were trading on ,yule ,island one young man had feathers for sale4 ,dr4 ,james and ,waunaea told him to leave2 they would not take his feathers because he objected to the pearl shell produced4 ,this1 they say1 was the beginning4 ,he tried very hard to sell his feathers1 and1 if possible1 get a tomahawk4 ,failing1 he went home1 quietly arranged a party1 slept in the bush1 and before daylight went off to the vessel4 ,on nearing the vessel1 ,dr4 ,james called out--,you must not come alongside3 you are coming to kill me4 ,they said1 ,we are not going to kill you1 but want to sell yams4 ,the yams were taken on board1 and whilst ,dr4 ,james was counting the beads to pay for them he was struck with a club1 and afterwards speared1 but not quite disabled1 as he drew his revolver and shot the man who attacked him4 ,mr4 ,thorngren was struck at from aft1 fell overboard1 and was never again seen4 ,they say1 when the people in the village heard of it1 they were very sorry1 and that ever since they have been looked upon with anger1 as they have been the cause of keeping the white man away with his tobacco1 beads1 and tomahawks4 ,i asked them1 ,what now8 ,let us make friends1 and never again have the like4 ,but your young men could do the same again without your knowing4 ,they know better than try it again2 they are too much afraid2 and they see that what was then done has greatly injured us as well as all the other villages4 ,i explained to them the object of our coming here1 and that they must not think we are to buy everything they bring1 and must not be angry when we refuse to give what they demand4 ,we do not come to steal their food or curios1 and1 if we do not want them1 they can carry all back2 we are not traders4 ,after praying with them1 they said1 ,tamate1 now let it be friendship2 give up your intention of going to ,mekeo 7inland district71 and come to-morrow1 and we shall make friends and peace4 ,i shall go2 but suppose the mother of the young man who was shot begins wailing1 what then8 ,she will doubtless wail1 but you need not fear2 come1 and you will see4 ,then to- morrow ,i shall go4 ,next morning1 the ,mayri having arrived the evening before1 ,i carried into effect the intended visit4 ,the chief of ,paitana and two followers1 with my friend ,lauma1 of ,lolo1 waited to accompany me4 ,after breakfast we got into the boat1 ,lavao in charge4 ,we entered the same creek as for ,motu ,lavao1 and when up it some distance turned up another to the right1 too narrow to use oars4 ,when two miles up we anchored boat1 then walked or waded for two miles through swamp and long grass4 ,when near the village we heard loud wailing1 and ,lavao1 who was leading1 thought it better we should wait for the old chief1 who was some distance behind4 ,on coming up they spoke in ,lolo1 then threw down his club1 calling on one of his followers to pick it up4 ,he went in front1 and called on me to follow close to him1 the others coming after2 and so we marched into the village and up on to his platform4 ,then began speechifying1 presenting cooked food1 betel-nuts1 pig1 and feathers4 ,when all was finished ,i gave my present1 and said a few words in the ,motu dialect4 ,the uncle of the man shot by ,dr4 ,james came on to the platform1 caught me by the arm and shouted1 ,maino6 7peace71 saying that they1 the chiefs1 knew nothing of the attack4 ,the murderers lived at the other end of the village2 and thither1 accompanied by a large party1 ,i went4 ,they gave me a pig1 and ,i gave them a return present4 ,the real murderer of ,mr4 ,thorngren sat near me1 dressed for the occasion1 and four others who were in the canoe stood near the platform4 ,the mother and two widows were in the house opposite1 but with good sense refrained from wailing4 ,i spoke to them of the meanness and treachery of attacking as they attacked ,dr4 ,james and ,mr4 ,thorngren4 ,they say there were ten in the canoe--one was shot1 three have since died1 and six remain4 ,they also say they feel they have done wrong1 as they not only made the foreigners their enemies1 but also all the tribes around were angry with them4 ,what now1 then8 ,oh1 maino 7peace7 it must be2 we are friends1 and so are all foreigners now4 ,i am not a trader1 but have come to teach about the only one true ,god and ,his love to us all in the gift of ,his ,son ,jesus ,christ1 to proclaim peace between man and man1 and tribe and tribe4 ,what seemed to astonish them most was my being alone and unarmed4 ,after some time1 our old friend came from the other end of the village and hurried us away4 ,it was time to leave them1 so1 giving a few parting presents1 we picked up our goods and away to the boat4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,east ,,cape ,,in #ahgh ,,and ,,in #ahhb ,original state of the natives--,war and cannibalism--,how the mission work has been carried on--,a ,sunday at ,east ,cape in #ahhb--,twenty-one converts baptized--,a blight prospect4 ,in #ahgh1 missionary work was begun at ,east ,capes1 and four years after the establishment of that mission1 on a review of the past1 what evidences of progress were to be seen6 ,there were signs of light breaking in upon the long dark night of heathenism4 ,looking at the condition of this people when the missionaries and teachers first landed1 what did they find8 ,a people sunk in crime that to them has become a custom and religion--a people in whom murder is the finest art1 and who from their earliest years study it4 ,disease1 sickness1 and death have all to be accounted for4 ,they know nothing of malaria1 filth1 or contagion4 ,hence they hold that an enemy causes these things1 and friends have to see that due punishment is made4 ,the large night firefly helps to point in the direction of that enemy1 or the spirits of departed ones are called in through spiritists' influence to come and assist1 and the medium pronouncing a neighbouring tribe guilty1 the time is near when that tribe will be visited and cruel deeds done4 ,they know nothing of a ,god of ,love--only gods and spirits who are ever revengeful1 and must be appeased2 who fly about in the night and disturb the peace of homes4 ,it is gross darkness and cruelty1 brother's hand raised against brother's4 ,great is the chief who claims many skulls2 and the youth1 who may wear a jawbone as an armlet is to be admired4 ,when we first landed here1 the natives lived only to fight1 and the victory was celebrated by a cannibal feast4 ,it is painfully significant to find that the only field in which ,new ,guinea natives have shown much skill and ingenuity is in the manufacture of weapons4 ,one of these is known as a ,man-catcher1 and was invented by the natives of ,hood ,bay1 but all over the vast island this loop of rattan cane is the constant companion of head-hunters4 ,the peculiarity of the weapon is the deadly spike inserted in the handle4 ,the modus operandi is as follows3--,the loop is thrown over the unhappy wretch who is in retreat1 and a vigorous pull from the brawny arm of the vengeful captor jerks the victim upon the spike1 which 7if the weapon be deftly handled7 penetrates the body at the base of the brain1 or1 if lower down1 in the spine1 in either case inflicting a death-wound4 ,all these things are changed1 or in process of change4 ,for several years there have been no cannibal ovens1 no desire for skulls4 ,tribes that could not formerly meet but to fight1 now meet as friends1 and sit side by side in the same house worshipping the true ,god4 ,men and women who1 on the arrival of the mission1 sought the missionaries' lives1 are only anxious now to do what they can to assist them1 even to the washing of their feet4 ,how the change came about is simply by the use of the same means as those acted upon in many islands of the ,pacific4 ,the first missionaries landed not only to preach the ,gospel of ,divine love1 but also to live it1 and to show to the savage a more excellent way than theirs4 ,learning the language1 mixing freely with them1 showing kindnesses1 receiving the same1 travelling with them1 differing from them1 making friends1 assisting them in their trading1 and in every way making them feel that their good only was sought4 ,they thought at first that we were compelled to leave our own land because of hunger6 ,teachers were placed amongst the people2 many sickened and died4 ,there was a time of great trial1 but how changed is everything now6 ,four years pass on1 and1 in #ahhb1 we visit them4 ,we left ,port ,moresby1 and arrived at ,east ,cape on a ,sunday4 ,morning service was finished1 and1 from the vessel1 we saw a number of natives well dressed1 standing near the mission house1 waiting to receive us4 ,the teachers came off1 and with them several lads1 neatly dressed4 ,after hearing from them of the work1 and of how the people were observing the ,sabbath1 we landed1 and were met by a quiet1 orderly company of men1 women1 and boys1 who welcomed us as real friends4 ,the first to shake hands with us was a chief from the opposite side of the bay1 who in early days gave us much trouble1 and had to be well watched4 ,now he was dressed1 and his appearance much altered4 ,it was now possible to meet him and feel he was a friend4 ,we found ,pi ,vaine very ill1 and not likely to live long2 yet she lived long enough to rejoice in the glorious success of the ,gospel of ,christ1 and to see many of those for whom she laboured profess ,christianity4 ,we were astonished1 when we met in the afternoon1 at the orderly service--the nice well-tuned singing of hymns1 translated by the teacher1 and the attention1 when he read a chapter in ,mark's ,gospel--translated by him from the ,rarotongan into the dialect of the place4 ,when he preached to them1 all listened attentively1 and seemed to be anxious not to forget a single word4 ,two natives prayed with great earnestness and solemnity4 ,after service all remained1 and were catechised on the sermon1 and then several present stood up and exhorted their friends to receive the ,gospel4 ,many strangers were present1 and they were exhorted to come as often as possible and hear the good news4 ,then1 again1 others offered prayers4 ,we found that numbers came in on the ,saturday with food and cooking-pots1 and remained until ,monday morning4 ,they lived with the teachers1 and attended all the services1 beginning with a prayer-meeting on ,saturday night4 ,during our stay of a few days1 they all remained at the station1 and we saw much of them4 ,the teachers said there were twenty-one who professed faith in ,christ and had given up heathenism and desired baptism4 ,we visited further on to the east1 and we were a week away on our return to ,east ,cape1 and after close examination of each candidate we decided to baptize them on the following ,tuesday4 ,the service was most interesting1 and well attended by persons from various places4 ,at night we examined the children and grown-up people who attend school1 and were much pleased with them4 ,a few can read in the ,motu dialect2 others know how to put letters together and form words4 ,we hope soon to have one or two books in their own dialect4 ,of those baptized several are anxious to be instructed1 that they may be better fitted to do work for ,christ amongst their own countrymen4 ,already they hold services1 and exhort in other villages1 and when travelling they do all the good they can to others4 ,we are in hopes soon to receive a number of young men and women at ,port ,moresby1 and begin our ,institution1 to be called ,the ,new ,guinea ,institution for ,training ,evangelists4 ,at present we shall proceed quickly1 building native houses for students1 and a class room to be bought in the colonies1 towards which our true friends in ,north ,adelaide contribute largely4 ,the harvest ripens fast3 where shall we look for labourers8 ,the ,master has said1 ,pray4 ,may they soon be sent6 ,the light is shining1 the darkness is breaking1 and the thick clouds are moving1 and the hidden ones are being gathered in4 ,we have already plucked the first flowers2 stern winter yields1 and soon we shall have the full spring1 the singing of birds1 and the trees in full blossom4 ,hasten it1 ,o ,lord1 we plead6 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing ,,cross4