,,black ,,hills999999 file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #agced-;h4htm or #agced-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ g_/c_/e_/agced_/agced-;h_/#agced-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ g_/c_/e_/agced_/agced-;h4zip7 ,,cave ,,regions ,,of ,,the ,,ozarks ,,and ,,black ,,hills by ,,luella ,,agnes ,,owen4 ,membre titulaire de la ,socit de ,splologie1 and ,fellow of the ,american ,geographical ,society4 ,illustration3 ,entrance ,to ,marble ,cave4 ,page #be4 ,cincinnati4 ,the ,editor ,publishing ,co4 #ahih4 ,the illustrations for this volume are from photographs by the following artists3 ,the ,views of ,marble ,cave1 by ,stone ,de ,groff1 ,warrensburg1 ,missouri4 ,the ,tower of ,babel1 ,the ,chimes1 ,the ,knife ,blade1 ,the ,needle1 ,the ,bridal ,veil1 by ,meddaugh1 of ,leadville1 ,so4 ,dakota4 ,top of ,glacier1 by ,l4,w4 ,marble1 ,wind ,cave1 ,so4 ,dakota4 ,white ,onyx ,masses1 ,fairies' ,palace1 by ,j4,w4 ,pike1 ,hot ,springs1 ,so4 ,dakota4 ,the ,wilderness ,pinery1 by ,d4 ,benton ,miller1 ,alton1 ,missouri4 ,approaching ,deadwood1 by ,h4,r4 ,locke ,co41 ,deadwood1 ,so4 ,dakota4 ,copyrighted ,the ,editor ,publishing ,company4 #ahih4 ,,to ,,my ,,mother ,,this ,,book ,,is ,,affectionately ,,dedicated4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter4 ,,page4 ,i ,a ,general ,view #a ,,ii ,marble ,cave #be ,,iii ,marble ,cave ,continued #dc ,,iv ,fairy ,cave and ,powell ,cave #eh ,v ,other ,stone ,county ,caves #gc ,,vi ,oregon ,county ,caves #hb ,,vii ,the ,grand ,gulf #ie ,,viii ,the ,black ,hills and ,bad ,lands #ajc ,,ix ,wind ,cave #aac ,x ,wind ,cave ,continued #abg ,,xi #ada ,,xii ,concluded #aea ,,xiii ,the ,onyx ,caves #afb ,,xiv ,crystal ,cave #age ,,xv ,concluded #ahc ,,xvi ,conclusion #baa ,cave ,regions of ,,the ,,ozarks ,,and ,,black ,,hills4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,a ,,general ,,view4 ,o'er mountains bright with snow and light1 ,we crystal hunters speed along1 ,while grots1 and caves1 and icy waves1 ,each instant echo to our song2 ,and when we meet with stores of gems ,we grudge not kings their diadems4 --,thomas ,moore4 ,the southern half of the ,state of ,missouri1 and the ,black ,hills of ,south ,dakota1 offer exceptionally delightful regions for the study of caves1 or ,speleology as it has been named1 and the sister sciences of geology and geography at the same time4 ,in fact it is impossible to study either without giving attention to the other two1 and therefore1 instead of being separate sciences1 they are the three branches of a great scientific trinity4 ,the regions here referred to enjoy the advantage1 and at the same time suffer the disadvantage1 of being comparatively little known to the ever restless tide of tourists who naturally hail with pleasure the announcement that some easily accessible1 and thoroughly charming spot1 has escaped their attention altogether1 with a marvelous store of attractions which are both extremely old and wholly new4 ,each of these regions has a peculiar geological history not repeated in any other portions of the earth's surface3 each is blessed with its own peculiar style of beautiful scenery3 and each vies with the other and all the world besides for the supremacy of its truly wonderful caves4 ,yet it should be well understood that the claims are not based on an unworthy spirit of rivalry1 nor any desire to deny the greatness and beauty of already famous members of the ,cave family4 ,it is simply an announcement that the family is much larger than has been generally supposed1 and the more recently presented members worthy of the full measure of distinguished honors4 ,the geological authorities of both states have for many years mentioned the beauty and importance of these regions1 and urged their claims to public attention1 but have been prevented1 by the pressure of other duties1 from giving to the caves such careful study and full reports as they deserve1 as it would have been a pleasure to give1 and as has been possible in states of less extent where the general work of the department is more advanced1 and the volume of tourist travel created an early demand for scientific explanation4 ,without any great difficulty we can understand the process of cave excavation by the action of percolating acidulated water on the limestone1 and its subsequent removal as the volume of surface drainage diverted to the new channel gradually increased4 ,but it is not so easy to offer a reason for the varied forms with which the caves are afterwards decorated4 ,why is it the charmed waters do not leave the evidence of their slow passage only in plain surfaces of varying widths1 and the stalactites and stalagmites whose formation we can readily account for8 ,and why do not the deposits take the same forms in all caves with only such variations as would naturally result from differences in topography8 ,the law is written1 but in unfamiliar characters that render our reading slow and uncertain4 ,yet it is conspicuously noticeable that those caves showing the most delicately fragile and wonderfully varied forms of decoration are those traversed by the most sweeping and changeable1 or even reversible1 currents of air2 which might lead to the conclusion that the moisture is sprayed or converted into a light1 misty vapor1 and then deposited in exactly the same manner as the beautiful frost-work at ,niagara3 the direction and force of the current determining the location of the frail deposits4 ,since the largest and most important caves occur in limestone1 a little special attention to the cause of their occurrence there may serve to show that although speleology has only recently received its name and been elevated to the rank of a separate and independent science1 it is one of the earth's ancient institutions4 ,our geologists1 who have unearthed many secrets not dreamed of even in ,humboldt's good phylosopy1 have settled the question of how the different kinds of caves were formed1 according to the character of rocks they are in1 or their location and depth1 and the natural agencies to whose action they show signs of having been subjected4 ,dr4 ,h4,c4 ,hovey1 in his ,celebrated ,american ,caverns1 says3 ,in visiting caves of large extent1 one is at first inclined to regard the long halls1 huge rifts1 deep pits and lofty domes1 as evidences of great convulsions of nature1 whereby the earth has been violently rent asunder4 ,but1 while mechanical forces have had their share in the work1 as has been shown1 the main agent in every case has been the comparatively gentle1 invisible gas known as carbonic acid4 ,this is generated by the decay of animal and vegetable substances1 and is to a considerable degree soluble in water4 ,under ordinary circumstances one measure of water will absorb one measure of carbonic acid2 and the eye will detect no difference in its appearance4 ,under pressure the power of absorption is rapidly increased1 until the water thus surcharged has an acid taste1 and effervesces on flowing from the earth1 as in ,saratoga water4 ,rain-water1 falling amid leaves and grass1 and sinking into the soil1 absorbs large quantities of carbonic acid4 ,on reaching the underlying limestone1 the latter is instantly attacked by the acidulated water in which it is dissolved and carried away4 ,it is agreed among geologists1 amazing as the statement may seem1 that the immense caverns of ,virginia1 ,kentucky and ,indiana1 including ,mammoth ,cave itself 7the largest of all71 were eaten out of the solid mass of limestone by the slow1 patient1 but irresistible action of acidulated water4 ,professor ,n4,s4 ,shaler says3 ,the existence of deep caverns is a sign that the region has long been above the sea4 ,through the kindness of ,professor ,c4,j4 ,norwood1 ,chief ,inspector and ,curator of the ,geological ,department of ,kentucky1 it is possible to quote the first official report made on the caves of that state and published in #ahef1 in ,volume ,i41 ,kentucky ,geological ,survey ,reports4 ,dr4 ,norwood says3 ,referring to the ',subcarboniferous ,limestone' 7now known as the ,st4 ,louis group of the ,mississippian series71 ,dr4 ,owen says3 ',the southern belt of this formation is wonderfully cavernous1 especially in its upper beds1 which being more argillaceous1 and impregnated with earths and alkalies1 are disposed to produce salts1 which oozing through the pores of the stone effloresce on its surface1 and thus tend to disintegrate and scale off1 independent of the solvent effects of the carbonated water4 ,beneath overhanging ledges of limestone1 quantities of fine earthy rubbish can be seen1 weathered off from such causes4 ,in these ,i have detected sulphate of lime1 sulphate of magnesia1 nitrate of lime1 and occasionally sulphate of soda4 ,the tendency which some calcareous rocks have to produce nitrate of lime is1 probably1 one of the greatest causes of disintegration4' ,most extensive subterranean areas thus have been excavated or undermined in ,edmonson1 ,hart1 ,grayson1 ,butler1 ,logan1 ,todd1 ,christian and ,trig4 ,in the vicinity of ,green ,river1 in the first of these counties1 the known avenues of the ,mammoth ,cave amount to two hundred and twenty-three1 the united length of the whole being estimated1 by those best acquainted with the ,cave1 at one hundred and fifty miles2 say that the average width and height of these passages amount to seven yards each way1 which is perhaps near the truth2 this would give upwards of twelve million cubic yards of cavernous space which has been excavated through the agency of calcareous waters and atmospheric vicissitudes4 ,page #afi3 ,on the south side of ,green ,river the platform of limestone forming the descent into ,mammoth ,cave is two hundred and thirty-two feet above ,green ,river4 ,the entrance to the cave1 being thirty-eight feet lower than this bed of limestone1 is one hundred and ninety-four feet above ,green ,river4 ,in the above two hundred and thirty-two feet there are several heavy masses of sandstone1 viz43 at one hundred and twenty-five1 one hundred and forty-five1 one hundred and fifty1 one hundred and sixty and two hundred and fifteen feet1 but it is probable that most of these have tumbled from higher positions in the hill1 as no alterations of sandstone have been observed at these levels in the cave4 ,from an elevation of from two hundred and forty to two hundred and fifty feet1 the prevalent rock is sandstone without pebbles1 which can be seen extending up to three hundred and twelve feet to the foundation of the ,cave ,hotel4 ,the united thickness of the limestone beds on this part of ,green ,river1 is about two hundred and thirty feet1 capped with eighty feet of sandstone4 ,about midway of the section on this part of ,green ,river1 are limestones of an obscure oolitic structure1 but no true oolite was observed4 ,many of these limestones are of such composition as to be acted on freely by the elements of the atmosphere1 which1 in the form of nitric acid1 combine with the earthy and alkaline bases of calcareous rock1 and give rise to the formation of nitrates with the liberation of carbonic acid2 hence the disintegrated rubbish of the caves yields nitrate of potash after being treated with the ley of ashes and subsequent evaporation of the saline lixivium4 ,the wonderfully cavernous character of the subcarboniferous limestones of the ,green ,river valley1 and1 indeed1 of these particular members of the subcarboniferous group throughout a great part of its range in ,kentucky and ,indiana1 is due in a great measure to this cause1 together with the solvent and eroding effects of water charged with carbonic acid4 ,the 'rock-houses' frequently encountered both in this formation and in the limestones of ,silurian date1 are produced by similar causes2 the more easily disintegrated beds gradually crumbling away1 while the more durable remain in overhanging ledges4 ,by the oxidation of other elements1 sulphates of oxide of iron and alkalies result1 which1 by double decomposition1 with carbonate of lime1 give rise to the formation of gypsums which appears in the form of rosettes1 festoons and various other imitative forms on the walls and ceilings of the caves4 ,crystallizations of sulphate of soda and sulphate of magnesia are not uncommon1 both in some of the caves and in sheltered situations under shelving rocks4 ,the explanations thus given of the excavation and subsequent refilling and decoration of the limestone caves of ,kentucky and ,indiana apply equally well to those of other states2 but it is to be remembered that at the time of ,dr4 ,owen's report1 onyx1 the most beautiful and valuable of dripstones1 had not yet been discovered in the ,united ,states2 while now especially fine deposits are known in ,california1 ,utah1 ,missouri1 ,south ,dakota and ,arkansas2 the ,missouri supply being exceptionally valuable on account of the marvelous delicacy and beauty of its coloring2 nor can it soon be exhausted1 as deposits have been found in eight counties and further exploration will no doubt discover more4 ,concerning the ,subcarboniferous1 or ,mississippian ,series in ,part ,i41 ,vol4 ,,iv41 ,missouri ,geological ,survey1 ,dr4 ,c4,r4 ,keyes says3 ,in the great interior basin of the ,mississippi the basal series is exposed more or less continuously over broad areas1 extending from northern ,iowa to ,alabama1 and from ,ohio to ,mexico4 ,while this broadly extended series of limestone is honey-combed in many places and all directions by wonderful caverns1 those of the ,ozark regions in ,missouri1 although comparatively little known1 are well worth knowing1 and are possibly the most ancient limestone caves in the world4 ,of the region in which they occur1 ,dr4 ,keyes1 in the volume last quoted1 says3 ,the chief typographical feature of the state has long been known in the ,ozark uplift1 a broad plateau with gentle quaquaversal slopes rising to a height of more than one thousand five hundred feet above mean tide1 and extending almost entirely across the southern part of the district4 ,on all sides the borders of this highland area are deeply grooved by numberless streams flowing in narrow gorges4 ,against its nucleus of very ancient granites and porphyries the ,ozark series of magnesian limestone was laid down4 ,then the area occupied by these rocks was elevated1 and around its margins were deposited successively the other members of the ,paleozoic4 ,the ,ozark region was thus the first land to appear within the borders of the present state of ,missouri4 ,he further says3 ,although it has long been known that the ,magnesian ,limestones are older than the ,trenton1 and that they lie immediately upon and against the ,archan crystallines unconformably1 their exact geological age has always remained unsettled4 ,there seems to be but little doubt1 however1 that part of the series is equivalent to the ,calciferous of other regions4 ,it is also pretty well determined that certain of the lower beds1 all below the ',saccharoidal' ,sandstone perhaps1 are representatives of the ,upper ,cambrian or ,potsdam4 ,these conclusions appear well grounded both upon stratigraphical and faunal evidence4 ,the rocks of the ,ozark region have not as yet received the necessary detailed study to enable the several lines of demarkation to be drawn with certainty4 ,this investigation is now being carried on as rapidly as possible1 and promises very satisfactory and interesting results in the near future4 ,the early geological reports represent the ,magnesian ,limestone series as made up of seven members4 ,following ,swallow1 these may be briefly described in the present connection4 ,beginning at the top1 they are3 ,first ,magnesian ,limestone4 ,first1 or ,saccharoidal ,sandstone4 ,second ,magnesian ,limestone4 ,second ,sandstone4 ,third ,magnesian ,limestone4 ,third ,sandstone4 ,fourth ,limestone4 ,the ,fourth ,magnesian ,limestone1 or lowest number of the ,ozark series recognized1 has its typical exposures along the ,niangua and ,osage rivers in ,morgan and ,camden counties4 ,professor ,swallow1 in his ,missouri ,geological ,survey ,reports ,i4 and ,,ii41 #ahec and #ahed1 says3 ,caves1 natural bridges and subterranean streams occur in the valley of the ,osage and its tributaries4 ,the same authority of forty years ago also mentions that ,some of the grandest scenery in the ,state is produced by the high castellated and mural bluffs of this 7,third ,magnesian ,limestone7 ,formation1 on the ,niangua and the ,osage4 ,another reference to the scenery on these rivers describes it as ,wild and grand1 beautiful and unique2 with gaudy-colored bluffs4 ,in the section on building materials he remarks3 ,one of the most desirable of the ,missouri marbles is in the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone on the ,niangua4 ,it is fine-grained1 crystalline1 silico-magnesian limestone of a light drab1 slightly tinged with peach-blossom1 and beautifully clouded with the same hue or flesh color4 ,it is twenty feet thick and crops out in the bluffs4 ,this marble is rarely surpassed in the qualities which fit it for ornamental architecture4 ,the ,ozarks in the extreme southern portion of the state are even less known to the world1 but the scenery is grand1 the climate delightful1 and the caves worthy of a visit for themselves alone4 ,the ,state of ,missouri being one third larger than ,england1 and of equal size to ,switzerland1 ,holland1 ,belgium and ,denmark combined1 it is not surprising that interesting discoveries are still to be expected4 ,the climate is so varied on account of the range in latitude and altitude1 and the natural resources are so great1 the claim has been made that if the ,state were surrounded by an impassable wall1 its citizens need not be deprived of any article necessary to a refined and luxurious mode of living3 and according to ,mr4 ,henry ,gannett in ,the ,building of a ,nation1 the population in #ahij was #gc4db per cent4 native whites of native parents1 the colored a little less than #f per cent41 and nearly two-thirds of the balance1 native born of parents1 one or both of whom were foreign4 ,although the ,ozark region has not yet received sufficient attention to dull its charm for the explorer1 the fact has been established that its earliest sedimentary rocks are of the ,cambrian ,age and still occupy mainly the position in which they were originally deposited4 ,therefore we need not be surprised to discover that some1 at least1 of the excavations are proportionately ancient2 and that the ,natural ,bridges are the last remaining positive evidence of their former existence and final collapse4 ,that the ,natural ,bridges of ,missouri mark the destruction of more ancient caves than the one preserved to geological history by ,virginia's grand attraction1 seems quite evident4 ,the greater age of the rocks indicates the possibility of earlier excavation while their undisturbed position suggests that destruction resulted1 not from violent earth movement1 but from the slow action of agencies requiring long periods of time4 ,before proceeding to a discussion of the caves visited personally for the gratification of private interest1 it is desirable to know what attention has been given to the subject1 incidentally1 in the course of regular official duty on the ,missouri ,geological ,survey4 ,,caves ,,described ,,in ,,the ,,state ,,reports4 ,although many unknown caves must yet be discovered in the imperfectly explored portions of the vast ,ozark forests1 these finds are already so numerous as to seldom attract attention according to their just desserts4 ,one of the comparatively recent of these discoveries is ,crystal ,cave1 at ,joplin1 described on page #eff1 ,vol4 ,,vii41 ,missouri ,geological ,survey ,report #ahid4a ,it was opened in the lower workings of a shaft of the ,empire ,zinc ,company1 and ,the entire surface of the cave1 top1 sides and bottom1 is lined with calcite crystals1 so closely packed together as to form a continuous sheet and most of them of great size1 and well formed faces4 ,scalenohedra as much as two feet long are sometimes seen1 and others a foot or more in length are common4 ,planes or crystal ghosts1 sometimes with pyrite crystals1 marking stages of growth in the calcite crystals1 are often distinguishable4 ,the entire absence of anything like stalactites is noticeable1 and together with the presence of the crystals1 show that the cave was completely filled with water during their growth4 ,in the same volume1 all those counties in the extreme southwest corner of the state1 whose geological age has not heretofore been considered positively determined1 are mapped as ,lower ,carboniferous1 and ,lower ,silurian1 with the ,coal ,measures covering portions of ,barton and ,jasper and appearing in a few small1 scattered spots in ,dade1 ,polk1 ,green and ,christian counties1 and some scanty lines of ,devonian fringing the edges of the ,silurian in ,barton and ,mc,donald4 ,other ,state reports make mention of many caves and fine springs1 and also several natural bridges worthy of special notice4 ,in ,mr4 ,g4,c4 ,broadhead's report for #ahgc-ahgd1 he gives a short but interesting chapter on caves and water supplies1 in which he says that ,caves occur in the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone1 ,saccharoidal ,sandstone1 ,trenton1 ,lithographic1 ,encrinital and ,st4 ,louis ,limestone4 ,in ,eastern and ,northeast ,missouri there have not been found many large caves in the ,encrinital ,limestone1 but the lower beds of this formation in ,southwest ,missouri often enclose very large caverns2 among the latter may be included the caves of ,green ,county with some in ,christian and ,mc,donald4 ,those in ,mc,donald ,i have not seen1 but they are reported to be very extensive and probably are situated in the ,encrinital ,limestone4 ,under the head of ,special ,descriptions he says3 ,on ,sac ,river1 in the north part of ,green ,county1 we find a cave with two entrances1 one at the foot of a hill1 opening toward ,sac ,river1 forty-five feet high and eighty feet wide4 ,the other entrance is from the hill-top1 one hundred and fifty feet back from the face of the bluff4 ,these two passages unite4 ,the exact dimensions of the cave are not known1 but there are several beautiful and large rooms lined with stalactites and stalagmites which often assume both beautiful and grotesque life-like forms4 ,the cave has been explored for several hundred yards1 showing the formations to be thick silicious beds of the ,lower ,carboniferous formations4 ,knox cave1 in ,green ,county1 is said to be of large dimensions4 ,i have not seen it1 but some of its stalactites are quite handsome4 ,wilson's ,creek sinks beneath the ,limestone and appears again below4 ,there are several caves near ,ozark1 ,christian ,county1 which issue from the same formation as those in ,green ,county4 ,on a branch of ,finly ,creek a stream disappears in a sink1 appearing again three-quarters of a mile southeast through an opening sixty feet high by ninety-eight feet wide4 ,up stream the cave continues this size for a hundred yards and then decreases in size1 and for the next quarter of a mile further it is generally ten by fourteen feet wide4 ,a very clear1 cool stream passes out1 in which by careful search crawfish without eyes can be found4 ,there is another cave a few miles south of ,ozark1 and another ten miles southeast occurs in the ,magnesian ,limestone4 ,in ,boone ,county there are several caves in the ,encrinital ,limestone4 ,conner's1 the largest1 is said to have been explored for a distance of eight miles4 ,in ,pike and ,lincoln there are several small caves occurring in the upper beds of ,trenton ,limestone1 which are often very cavernous4 ,on ,sulphur ,fork of ,cuivre1 there is a cave and ,natural ,bridge1 to which parties for pleasure often resort4 ,the bridge is tubular with twenty feet between the walls1 and is one hundred feet long4 ,at ,j4,p4 ,fisher's on ,spencer ,creek1 ,ralls ,county1 there is a cave having an entrance of ninety feet wide by twenty feet high4 ,the ,lower ,trenton beds occupy the floor1 with the upper cavernous beds above4 ,on the bluff1 at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards back1 there is a sink-hole which communicates with the cave4 ,within the cave is a cool1 clear spring of water1 and ,mr4 ,f4 said he could keep meat fresh there for six weeks during midsummer4 ,the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone which occupies such a large portion of ,southwest ,missouri1 often contains very large caves4 ,one of them1 known as ,friede's cave1 is six or eight miles ,northwest of ,rolla1 on ,cave ,spring ,creek4 ,it is said to have been explored for several miles1 but ,i only passed in a few hundred yards4 ,the stalactites here are very beautiful1 assuming the structure of satin spar4 ,a very clear stream of water issues out4 ,west of the ,gasconade1 on ,clifty ,creek1 is a remarkable ,natural ,bridge which ,i have elsewhere described in ,geological ,survey of ,missouri1 #ahee-ga1 page #af4 ,mr4 ,meek speaks of a large and interesting cave on ,tavern ,creek1 in ,miller ,county4 ,dr4 ,shumard estimates a cave on ,bryant's ,fork1 in ,ozark ,county1 to be a mile and a half long4 ,this description of ,dr4 ,shumard's is in the ,geological ,survey of ,missouri1 #ahee-ga1 page #aif1 where he says3 ,the entrance is thirty-five feet wide and thirty feet high1 and is situated at the foot of a perpendicular cliff1 and far above the water-level of ,bryant4 ,just within the entrance it expands to sixty or seventy feet1 with a height of about fifty feet2 and this part of the cave has been used by the citizens of the county as a place for holding camp-meeting4 ,i estimated its length at not far short of one mile and a half4 ,the main passage is in general quite spacious1 the roof elevated1 and the floor tolerably level1 but often wet and miry4 ,for some distance beyond the entrance there is not much to attract attention2 but as we proceed1 at the far extremity the chambers are quite as picturesque as the most noted of the well-known ,mammoth ,cave4 ,the ceilings1 sides and floor are adorned with a multitude of stalactites and stalagmites arranged in fanciful combinations1 and assuming a variety of fantastic and beautiful forms4 ,many of these caves contain niter1 which occurs as a mineral and not as evidence of former animal occupation1 it being found in the form of effervescenses on the walls4 ,dr4 ,shumard mentions several of this character in ,pulaski ,county1 the most noted being ,niter ,cave1 in the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone1 with a wide entrance thirty feet above the level of the ,gasconade4 ,on page #bja1 he also gives a charming description of one of the immense springs that are numerous in this region and that ,i have never seen elsewhere4 ,he says3 ,ozark ,county is bountifully supplied with springs of the finest water1 and some of them of remarkably large size4 ,the largest one is situated near the ,north ,fork1 in ,t4 #bd1 ,r4 #aa ,w41 ,sec4 #cb1 and is known under the name of the ,double ,spring4 ,it issues from near the base of a bluff of ,sandstone and ,magnesian ,limestone1 a few feet above the level of the ,north ,fork4 ,this spring discharges an immense volume of water1 which is divided by a huge mass of ,sandstone into two streams1 with swift currents flowing in opposite directions to join the ,north ,fork about one hundred and fifty yards distant from the spring4 ,i estimated the width of these streams at not less than fifty yards4 ,they are separated from the ,north ,fork by a pretty wooded island one hundred yards long4 ,the upper stream affords a good mill-site4 ,i am informed that the quantity of water discharged by this magnificent spring is not materially diminished during the dryest seasons of the year4 ,the temperature of the water measured at the edge of the spring1 was found to be #ef2 the temperature of the air at the same time1 #ei4 ,other springs of considerable magnitude occur in various portions of the county1 giving rise to beautiful and limpid streams4 ,the descriptions of the ,natural ,bridge and ,friede's cave1 near ,rolla1 previously referred to as being on page #af of the same volume1 are as follows3 ,on ,clifty ,creek found the chert bed of ,sec4 #ba-e occurring about sixty feet from the top of the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone1 with a road passing over its upper surface1 presenting it very favorably for observation4 ,it seemed here to be broken by vertical cracks into large rhomboidal blocks4 ,further up this creek in a wild and secluded spot1 observed a ,natural ,bridge with six feet of this chert bed at its base1 and ,silicious ,magnesian ,limestone above4 ,the span of this bridge is about thirty feet1 an elevation of opening about fifteen feet above the water1 the thickness of the rock above is about twelve feet1 and width on top about fifteen feet4 ,two small streams come together1 one from the west and another from the south-west4 ,a point of the bluff on the south-west fork spans the northern fork1 and terminates about sixty feet beyond in a sharp point2 a few large masses of rock lie near the termination of the promontory1 and fifty feet beyond1 the bluffs of the opposite hills rise abruptly from the bottoms4 ,the bluffs1 both above and below1 are very precipitous1 the middle and lower beds of the ,third ,magnesian ,limestone forming perpendicular escarpments1 frequently studded with cedar1 some occurring on top of the bridge4 ,a perfectly clear stream of water courses through this valley4 ,the bottoms near are overspread with a dense growth of trees and vines1 among which latter ,i noticed the ,muscadine grape4 ,the valley at this part being shut in by its perpendicular cliffs with not a path to guide the traveler through the dense thickets1 is wildly picturesque and romantic in its loneliness4 ,of the cave he says3 ,this cave is a quarter of a mile east of ,cave ,spring ,creek1 and has a wide and elevated entrance2 passing into it a hundred yards or more1 the passage narrows1 and in order to go further a stream of water has frequently to be waded through2 this passage has been followed by some persons several miles without finding any object of interest2 but a few hundred yards from the entrance1 by diverging to the right1 we enter a large chamber1 studded with stalactites and stalagmites1 many uniting and forming solid columns of support4 ,many of these are very beautiful1 and often as white as alabaster4 ,there are other large rooms1 but they possess no peculiar interest4 ,found large deposits of earth on the floor having a saline taste4 ,of the extensive pine forests in ,ozark ,county1 he says3 ,the size and quality of the timber will compare favorably with that of the celebrated pineries of ,wisconsin and ,minnesota4 ,in several other counties the pine is equally good1 and other valuable timber everywhere abundant1 although in a school geography published in #ahch1 the following descriptions of this region occur3 ,the lowlands of the ,mississippi are bounded by the region of the ,ozark ,mountains4 ,with the exception of the alluvial tracts on the borders of the streams1 it is extremely hilly and broken4 ,the mountains rise from eight hundred to eighteen hundred feet above the streams1 with rounded summits and often perpendicular cliffs1 and have a rocky surface1 which admits only a scanty growth of timber4 99 99 ,missouri is generally a region of prairies and table lands1 much of which1 as already described1 is almost destitute of timber and water4 ,it is crossed by the ,ozark ,mountains1 which form a rugged tract of considerable extent4 ,earthquakes are not infrequent in some parts of this state4 ,the soil is not generally productive4 ,a comparison of these curious views with the latest official reports is highly amusing1 as well as suggestive that early impressions are liable to require modification4 ,in addition to the wonderful springs of pure water1 there are numerous fine mineral springs1 among which are a number of ,epsom salt springs4 ,at ,jacksonville1 in ,randolph ,county1 there is a large mineral spring from which it is said an over-heated horse may drink all he will without injury4 ,epsom-salts1 or ,epsomite1 frequently occurs1 as does the ,niter1 in a crystalline form of the pure mineral1 as an efflorescence on rocks in many of the caves and in other sheltered positions4 ,illustration3 ,the ,surveyed ,portions of ,marble ,cave ,stone ,county ,missouri ,surveyed and ,plotted by ,fred ,prince4 #ahid ,scale of #ajj feet ,,footnotes3 #a ,lead and ,zinc4 ,prof4 ,c4,r4 ,keyes4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,marble ,,cave4 ,marble ,cave1 which is the finest yet explored in ,missouri1 is southeast of the center of ,stone ,county1 a short distance north of the picturesque ,white ,river4 ,the nearest station is ,marionville on the ,st4 ,louis and ,san ,francisco railroad1 and the drive of forty miles is delightful1 but can be divided1 into two of twenty each by a stop at ,galena4 ,the road1 for the most part1 is naturally macadamized and is through a most charming country whose roughness and beauty increase together as the journey advances4 ,at first it winds along fertile valleys between wooded hills1 crossing many times a shallow stream of water so clear as to afford no concealment for an occasional water-moccasin1 whose bite is said to be not poisonous if inflicted under water1 and which must be true because the horses showed not the least uneasiness4 ,the second week in ,may found the vegetation in its summer beauty2 strawberries were ripe1 and the weather without a fault4 ,galena is pleasantly situated on the hills overlooking the ,james ,river1 and is entirely invisible from the road by which it is approached until a slight curve in the line of ascent ends the first half of the journey with surprising suddenness4 ,in the immediate vicinity there are several small caves which are worthy of attention and will be described later on4 ,to properly picture the twenty miles of changing and charming views between ,galena and ,marble ,cave would require the light and skillful touch of a special artist gifted with a tangible perception of atmospheric values4 ,gradually the road forsakes the pretty valleys with their fields and streams1 to take the summit of the hills and then be known as the ,ridge ,road1 which affords a wide range of vision not previously enjoyed1 presenting scenes not to be found reproduced elsewhere with any degree of exactness4 ,looking into the depth of the forest as it slopes away on either side1 the impression is of a magnificent park1 undefaced by what are called improvements4 ,this effect is produced by the scarcity1 or entire absence of underbrush1 and a beautiful surface covering of grasses or flowering plants of all kinds and colors1 varied here and there with masses of ferns of unusual size and delicate beauty4 ,the most unexpected and lavish feature of the rich display is the many miles of fragrant honeysuckle that grows only eighteen inches high in the forest shade1 but if transplanted to a sunny spot develops into the familiar vine4 ,the most beautiful portion of all this is called ,the ,wilderness1 and seems designed for a ,national ,park4 ,such a park reserve1 even if very small1 could not fail to be a lasting pleasure1 since it would be more accessible to large centers of population than other reserves1 and its most delightful seasons are spring and autumn when the ,yellowstone is under snow4 ,illustration3 ,a ,mill-,site ,near ,marble ,cave4 ,the distant view obtained through open spaces is an undulating forest in all directions1 being apparently both trackless and endless4 ,the great variety of greens observed in the foliage blends in the distance into one dark shade1 then changes to dark blue1 which gradually fades out to a hazy uncertainty where it is lost at the sky-line4 ,as long ago as #ahec1 the variety and abundance of the natural growth of fruits throughout the ,ozarks was observed by ,professor ,swallow1 who then advised the planting of vines4 ,beyond the ,wilderness is the ,marble ,cave property and the entrance to the ,cave is through a large sink-hole in the top of ,roark ,mountain4 ,this hole is said to be about two hundred feet long1 one hundred feet wide and thirty-five feet deep4 ,it is shaped like a great oblong bowl with sloping sides1 divided irregularly near the middle1 and having the bottom broken out in a jagged way that is very handsome and gives an ample support to the growth of ferns1 wild roses1 and other vegetation with which it is abundantly decorated4 ,about half of the descent into the basin is accomplished by scrambling down the roughly broken rocks1 and the balance by a broad wooden stairway ending at a narrow platform that supports the locked gate4 ,for kind and valuable assistance rendered to insure the success and pleasure of the visit to the wonderful cave1 which they regard with affection and pride1 very cordial thanks are due to ,capt4 ,t4,s4 ,powell1 former manager1 his son1 ,mr4 ,will ,powell1 the first guide1 and ,mr4 ,fred ,prince1 who has made the only official survey and map4 ,it may be stated here that the survey and map are far from complete1 and many known passages have never yet been entered4 ,being the first visiting party of the season1 certain disadvantages were encountered in a great accumulation of wet clay and rubbish1 washed in by the rains since the previous summer2 but the gate was opened with considerable effort1 and slowly and cautiously we descended the slippery1 clay-banked stairs to the immense mound of debris forty-five feet below the gate1 to behold1 at last1 the grandeur of the ,auditorium4 ,the magnificence of that one chamber should give to ,marble ,cave a world-wide fame even if there were nothing more beyond4 ,the blue-gray limestone walls have a greater charm than those of an open caon1 owing to the fact that they sweep away from any given point in long1 true curves to form an elliptical chamber three hundred and fifty feet long by one hundred and twenty-five feet wide1 with the vault above showing absolute perfection of arch1 and measuring1 by the survey1 from its lowest to its highest point1 one hundred and ninety-five feet4 ,these measurements are said to be indisputably correct1 and if so1 the ,auditorium of ,marble ,cave is the largest unsupported1 perfect arch in the world2 it being one hundred feet longer than the famous ,mormon ,tabernacle at ,salt ,lake ,city4 ,in addition to the artistic superiority of architectural form1 its acoustic properties having been tested1 it is found to be truly an auditorium4 ,the curving walls and pure atmosphere combine to aid the voice1 and carry its softest tones with marvelous distinctness to every portion of the immense inclosed space4 ,as a concert hall its capacity has been tested by musicians who are said to have been enthusiastic over the success of their experiments4 ,several years ago a piano was lowered into the cave for use on a special occasion1 and still occupies a position on the dancing platform1 where it will probably remain indefinitely under the scant protection of a small canvas tent4 ,the chief ornament of the ,auditorium is the ,white ,throne1 a stalagmitic mass that when viewed from the stairway appears to rest solidly against the most distant wall1 and looks so small an object in that vast space as to render a realization of its actual measurement impossible4 ,the height of the ,throne is sixty-five feet and the girth two hundred4 ,it is a mass of dripstone resting on a limestone base reserved from the ancient excavation to receive it1 and on careful inspection the perpendicular lines1 observed on the front1 are found to be a set of rather large organ pipes4 ,a fresh fracture shows the ,throne to be a most beautiful white and gold onyx4 ,the outer surface has now received a thin coating of yellow clay which was1 of course1 regretted1 but later observations on onyx building reveals the pleasing fact that if the crystal-bearing waters continue to drip1 the yellow clay will supply the coloring matter for a golden band of crystal4 ,the ,throne is hollow and has a natural opening in one side by which it may be entered1 but the space within is too limited to invite a lengthy stay4 ,that portion of the outside which is nearest the wall is formed with sufficient irregularity of outline to admit of an ascent to the top1 and the view obtained is well worth the difficult scramble up and the apprehensive slide down4 ,being raised so high above all objects that divide attention or in some degree obstruct the view1 permits a freedom of outlook that sensibly increases the appreciation of the vastness of the enclosed chamber and its enclosing walls4 ,efforts to establish the age of the deposit by observations on the yearly growth1 would afford little satisfaction1 for the obvious reason that conditions governing the growth are dependent1 in a measure1 on each season's vegetation4 ,deposit began1 of course1 after the erosion of the chamber ceased1 and therefore represents only a fraction of the age of the cave itself4 ,about thirty feet west of the ,white ,throne and against the wall1 stands the next onyx attraction in the form of a beautiful fluted column nearly twenty feet high1 tapering up from a base three feet in diameter1 and known as the ,spring ,room ,sentinel1 because the ,spring of ,youth is just behind it although not directly connected with the ,auditorium2 it being the first chamber on the left in ,total ,depravity ,passage1 a wet and dangerous way of which next to nothing is known1 but the entrance to which is a fine arch a few feet west of the ,sentinel4 ,the ,spring of ,youth is reached by climbing through a window-like opening1 and is very small1 very wet1 very cold1 and very beautiful4 ,it is not more than ten feet high nor six in its greatest length and breadth1 but every inch of its irregular surface is composed of dripstone of a bright yellowish-red and colorless crystal2 and down the glittering walls trickles clear and almost ice-cold water1 to the onyx floor where it is caught and held in a marvelous fluted bowl of its own manufacture4 ,this is said to be the gem of the whole cave and seems to have been placed where it is for the consolation of those who are unable to enjoy the peculiar grandeur of the ,auditorium1 and leave it as some actually are said to do1 with a sense of disappointment1 because it is not the gleaming white hall of marble which some writers for reputable journals have allowed their imaginations to create4 ,in winter the ,spring of ,youth ,room takes on a complete coating of ice1 with icicles of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and projections4 ,the effect is described as being wonderfully beautiful4 ,further down ,total ,depravity ,passage we were not urged to go1 because at that season of the year it is wet and difficult1 without any sufficient promise of a brilliant compensation for the achievement of such a journey4 ,but the ,spring of ,youth ,room1 or as it is generally called1 the ,spring ,room1 is more than ample justification for the existence of the passage1 and would still be if that passage were several miles in length and the attraction located at the most distant limit4 ,illustration3 ,wall in ,spring ,room4 ,page #cb4 ,the various passages in ,marble ,cave are by no means alike or even similar2 some having been opened by the action of water assisted only by acid carried in solution2 while others are the unmistakable crevices of earthquake origin1 afterwards enlarged1 or perhaps only remodeled1 as we might say1 by the water's untiring energy in changing the position of rock masses without obliterating evidences of original design4 ,a glance at the map shows the sudden breaking off of the various passages represented2 the end1 however1 is not of the passages themselves1 but only of the exploration or the survey of them1 and there is a possibility that future developments will lead to the discovery of more caves than are yet known4 ,however that may be1 the glimpses already had into the beyond are said to be alluring4 ,to the north of the ,auditorium1 which was until recently called the ,grand ,amphitheater1 there opens out a kind of alcove extension known as the ,mother ,hubbard ,room1 and spreading out from this is the corridor1 a room about one hundred and twenty-five feet long and seventy-five feet in width1 with a low1 narrow passage1 or crawl1 leading from the northeast into the ,grotto1 a dome-shaped room formerly called the ,battery1 on account of the great number of bats that used to congregate in it4 ,it is about forty feet in diameter and fifty feet in height4 ,on one side of this room is a narrow squeeze opening into a passage several feet lower than the floor level of the ,grotto and leading to the ,spanish ,room1 which when discovered bore indications of having been occupied by a human being who had tried to escape by tunneling1 or by reaching a hole in the roof2 which is said to be impossible for him to have done without outside assistance4 ,as no bones have been found we may hope the assistance arrived in time4 ,when the discovery of the room was made1 a quantity of loose rock was piled before the entrance1 so if he ever escaped it was not by that way4 ,after crawling back to the ,corridor1 through the same small1 but dry passage of seventy feet length1 we saw a narrow ledge of fine crystals1 a deposit of ,epsom salts1 and a few bats that in the dim light looked white but are a light tan color with brown wings4 ,a good specimen hanging on a projecting ledge of the wall remained undisturbed by us and our lights1 giving an opportunity for careful inspection so that we presently discovered it to be a mummy2 which naturally suggests that this portion of the cave1 being dry and opening out of the great temple-like ,auditorium as an alcove1 could be converted into an imposing crypt4 ,making our way across the room to its southwest extremity over a varied assortment of bowlders and down a drop of eight or ten feet1 we crawled into another tight-fitting dry passage lined with beautiful glittering onyx like clear ice banded with narrow lines of red1 of which broken fragments covered the narrow floor and made a dazzling1 but distressingly painful rug to crawl over4 ,this is the ,west ,passage and leads to the ,grand ,crevice1 of which only a small portion has been surveyed2 midway of the passage are the ,epsom ,rooms1 two in number1 and well supplied with epsomite or native ,epsom salts2 this is sometimes called the ,windy ,passage1 on account of a rushing current of air met suddenly at the first bend and1 no doubt1 due to the meeting here of fresh air coming in from the outside with that chemically changed in the ,epsom ,rooms4 ,the cave contains a great many dangerous places1 as we correctly surmised on the morning of our introduction2 when ,mr4 ,powell's blessing on the breakfast was lost in so fervent a prayer for the safe and successful accomplishment of our undertaking1 it seemed inconsiderate not to present the reassuring appearance of inexhaustible endurance4 ,in the ,corridor can be seen one of the three old ,spanish ladders found in the cave when it was rediscovered2 but when and for what purpose the ,spaniards used the cave there seems to be no means of finding out4 ,it should be remembered that this part of the ,united ,states was occupied first by the ,spaniards and then by the ,french1 and is a portion of the ,louisiana ,purchase1 a tract of #hig1ica square miles1 or #gj1jjj square miles more than the original thirteen states4 ,the price asked and paid was #ab1jjj1jjj and the assumption of claims which citizens of this country had against the ,french ,government for about #c1gej1jjj more4 ,the ,french offered to make the sale on account of being thoroughly discouraged with constant troubles arising with the ,indians1 whom they had decided it would be impossible to persuade or compel to recognize any laws other than those established by each tribe for itself1 or accepted by friendly treaty with the council and disregarded by individuals on both sides3--and the ,united ,states accepted the offer1 not for any expected value in the land1 but for the unrestricted navigation of the ,mississippi ,river4 ,therefore ,missouri was never under ,british rule and never changed hands by force of arms4 ,but to return to the ,spanish ladder1 it is a tall pine tree notched on the sides for steps1 and the stump of a branch left or a peg inserted at considerable intervals1 for hand supports to assist in raising the weight of the body4 ,returning to the ,auditorium1 we entered a passage behind the ,great ,white ,throne and started on what might well be called the ,water ,route1 for no dry spot is touched on the round trip2 but if one goes prepared for such a journey it is well worth the effort and the mud4 ,if the visitor is a man1 the suit worn should be one he is ready to part with1 or overalls2 ladies receive the same advice even to the overalls1 as some of the most beautiful portions of the cave1 which we failed to see1 can be visited only in that objectionable costume4 ,to visit any cave comfortably a short dress is necessary and if any thing like a thorough knowledge of the ramifications is desired1 the unavoidable climbing will soon prove the superior claims of a divided skirt2 but if it is properly made1 only the wearer need be conscious of the divide4 ,rubber boots and water-proof protection for the head and shoulders complete a costume that is not exactly an artistic creation1 unless our ideas of art have been gathered in the school of ,socrates1 but it is suited to the requirements of the occasion and makes the explorations far more easy and profitable than they otherwise could be4 ,the passage back of the ,white ,throne is called the ,serpentine ,passage1 and most of it is sufficiently high for traveling in an erect position2 yet there are several places that require crawling4 ,the first stopping point is the ,gulf of ,doom ,room1 or as it is also known1 the ,register ,room1 because here visitors usually write their names in the peculiar dark red clay1 which is moist but firm and cuts with a polish4 ,this room is twenty-five feet high and fifty feet wide1 and looks off into the ,gulf of ,doom1 which seems rightly named when a rock is thrown into it and you note the lapse of time before any sound returns2 and when the awful ,gulf is made visible by lights thrown in1 one involuntarily seeks a firmer footing and clings to a projecting rock4 ,the height of the ,gulf is ninety-five feet and the distant sound of falling water is not reassuring4 ,the walls are not smoothly worn away1 but have the rough and weird appearance of having been torn by a torrent in a narrow mountain gorge1 and are stained with the dark clay4 ,retracing our steps a short distance1 if that style of locomotion could be called steps1 we turned into ,dor's ,gallery1 and surely that artist was in his usual working mood when he conceived this awful method of connecting the upper regions with the lower4 ,great bowlders have fallen down without helping to fill the black holes that received them1 and into this real ,inferno we proceeded to descend by narrow1 ladder-like stairs provided with a light hand rail1 and trembling slightly with the responsibility they assumed4 ,if any one's courage trembled too1 no notice was taken of it1 and a record of exploring experiences does not necessarily include a confession of any doubts4 ,on all the ladders in this ,gallery was a fine white fungus growth in the form of a thick1 heavy mold1 that the lightest touch destroyed4 ,in caves where some care is taken to protect this mold1 it attains a growth of six or more feet and assumes the forms of sea-weed4 ,once down the first and longest flight of stairs1 without any signs of a ,dor dragon raising its huge body by heavy claws to a resting place among the rocks1 awe divides more evenly with admiration2 and being already well besmeared with mud1 we climbed over the clay-covered bowlders and crawled through narrow holes with perfect satisfaction1 enjoying each novel scene to the utmost4 ,off from the ,dor ,gallery is a small chamber containing the ,fountain of ,youth1 that must be seen1 but the way1 like that of the transgressor1 is hard4 ,arrived at the entrance we hesitated a moment1 for although getting in looked possible1 the way out again seemed not so simple2 but finally trusting to ,providence1 through the direct agency of our careful guardians1 of course1 we sat down on the edge of the large slippery bowlder on which we stood1 and reaching out caught a projection of the wall on one side and a bowlder crag on the other1 swung off and dropped into the soft mud below4 ,this chamber proved to be a little gem2 small but high1 and beautifully adorned with calcite crystal4 ,down a wall of red onyx on one side clear water flows into a basin in the irregular1 rocky floor1 just behind the bowlder we had used for a hand-rest at the entrance2 the perfectly transparent water in the basin appears to be only a few inches deep1 but measures three feet1 and is several degrees colder than the air1 which in this portion of the cave is warm4 ,the other wall of this room is an almost perpendicular bank of the soft dark red clay1 in which small selenite crystals are sprouting like plants in a garden4 ,suddenly we heard a heavy1 rolling noise like distant thunder1 and asking if it were possible to hear a thunder storm so far below the surface1 were told it was the protest of angry bats against a further advance on the quarters to which they have retreated from the main body of the cave1 and their orders were obeyed3 so of what may be in that direction1 we gained no positive knowledge besides bats1 and the fact that1 small as they are1 their great numbers make them dangerous when angry4 ,returning to the gallery and continuing the journey down over slippery rock and slender ladders we came at length to the bottom of the ,gulf of ,doom1 into which we had looked from the room now high above us2 and we needed no stimulating help to the imagination to pronounce it a fit termination to an artist's troubled dream4 ,illustration3 ,the ,waterfall4 ,page #da4 ,then climbing over an assortment of bowlders of all sizes1 going up a little1 and swinging or sliding down1 we came to a point in the narrow passage where the floor is a flat slab1 like a large paving stone1 tilted up at a steep angle against one wall and not reaching the other by about fifteen inches1 with darkness of unknown depth below3 about three feet above this opening the wall projects in a narrow1 shelving ledge1 and everything is covered with a thin coating of slippery wet clay4 ,the only way to cross that uninviting bridge is to brace the feet against the slab1 and leaning on the ledge1 slowly work across4 ,a little more rough work and the descent of the two short ladders1 brought us1 at last1 under the beautiful ,waterfall1 where we stood as in a heavy shower of rain at the lowest point yet reached in the cave1 which according to the survey of ,mr4 ,prince is four hundred feet below the surface4 ,the falling water has ornamented the walls1 which in this portion of the cave expose over two hundred feet of ,magnesian ,limestone1 with unique forms of dripstone2 and the steeply sloping floor has received the over-charge of calcium carbonate until it has become a shining mass of onyx1 retaining pools of cold1 transparent water in the depressions4 ,in the lowest corner there is only mud1 and above it rises1 to a height of at least fifteen feet a bank of miry1 yellow clay1 at the top of which a hole in the wall is the only known entrance to ,blondy's ,throne4 ,illustration3 ,longitudinal and ,cross-,sections of ,passages in ,marble ,cave1 ,stone ,co41 ,missouri4 ,plotted by ,fred ,prince1 #ahid4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,marble ,,cave ,,continued4 ,on account of the long crawl through mud and cold water1 it was at first suggested and then strongly advised1 that we should not undertake to make the trip to ,blondy's ,throne3 and yearning to see what is considered the cave's chief beauty was not easy to overcome1 but after careful attention to the deep mire of the approach the advice seemed good1 especially as ,mr4 ,powell kindly promised to write a description of its trials and treasures2 which he promptly did1 thereby making it possible for us to continue the journey now without a disappointing interruption1 so we will proceed to wade that mud bank with him in his own way4 ,he says3 ,as ,mecca is to the ,mohammedan1 so is ,blondy's ,throne ,room to the pilgrim who invades the chaos and penetrates the mysteries of ,marble ,cave4 ,when the subject is mentioned to the guide1 he shrugs his shoulders and assumes an imploring look1 and begins at once to mention the difficulties of getting there4 ,but if you insist upon it he will go4 ,the passage by which this room has to be reached1 if passage it may be called1 must be entered from the ,waterfall ,room1 and a steep ascent must be made until an elevation of fifty feet is reached above the bottom of that room4 ,this ascent has been called ,hughse's ,slide1 as a man of that name once lost his footing at the top and slid on the wet and very slippery clay all the way to the bottom1 leaving a very sleek trail4 ,the ascent is difficult1 as the soft clay is deep and wet and the sides are reeking and covered also with soft yielding clay4 ,when the top of the slide is once reached1 a low passage six feet wide and two feet high is discovered1 and stooping low1 or actually lying flat down1 you enter4 ,the top of the passage is of smooth rock and the bottom is of wet clay with an occasional variation of sharp gravel4 ,the air is good1 and as a lizard1 you start forward4 ,in places the passage widens to ten or twelve feet and again narrows to six feet4 ,in about one hundred feet you encounter a small pond of water filling the whole width of the passage and extending twenty to thirty feet1 but the guide tells you it is only one foot deep1 and calls attention to the fact that the water does not come within a foot of the roof of the passage and you can easily keep your chin above it1 and with this assurance through you go4 ,within the next one hundred feet you encounter and pass in the same manner three more ponds of varying sizes4 ,the guide calls your attention to the fact that you are not alone1 and looking about you by the dim light of your candle you see numbers of small eyeless salamanders1 from four inches to one foot long4 ,they are peaceable and harmless1 appear to have no teeth and are easily caught1 if you so desire4 ,another hundred feet and the ,rest ,room1 or ,egyptian ,temple is reached1 and rising to your feet you may rest4 ,the room is small1 but contains beautifully fluted walls1 resembling basaltic columns2 and natural marks of erosion that resemble hieroglyphic inscriptions4 ,from the other side of this room the passage goes on with the same characteristics1 but as you enter to go forward a sound strikes the ear1 and you pause to listen4 ,it is a confusion of sounds1 a babel of voices2 and sounds like a distant conversation carried on by a large number of people4 ,so striking is this resemblance that you instantly ask the guide if there are people in the room ahead1 and hardly believe him when he says1 ',no4' ,you hear voices of men1 voices of boys1 babies1 girls and ladies1 and occasionally loud laughter2 but forward is the word and on you go1 encouraged by the assurance of the guide that you are now over half way through the passage and that the sounds came from ,blondy's ,throne ,room4 ,suddenly the passage divides into two much alike1 and taking the right hand one1 you make your slow advance until at last1 with clothes soaked and covered with clay mud1 and your strength about gone1 you begin to feel desperate and tell the guide that you will go no further1 when you see him rise to his feet1 and he says3 ',here we are4' ,you step over a steep bank of clay and emerge into a large room4 ,it is almost square in shape2 about eighty feet long and sixty feet wide1 and about fifty feet high1 with white1 smooth walls and a pure white ceiling1 and sloping gradually downward on the left ends in a small1 clear lake of water4 ,this lake has a beautiful beach of white pebbles1 and though shallow on the edge seems quite deep at the center2 in fact it is believed to have there a concealed opening that gives exit to its waters4 ,on the opposite side from you1 a stream of clear water pours into the lake1 and in doing so it gives off the sounds that in the passage you mistook for human voices2 and this noble stream has been named ,mystic ,river4 ,it enters the lake from under a beautiful natural arch1 about thirty feet across at the bottom1 and six feet above the water at the center4 ,the bed of the stream is eroded from strata of sandstone that is extremely hard1 containing corundum1 and so perfect is its continuity that it conveys sound distinctly for a distance far beyond the reach of the human voice1 when tapped upon with a hammer4 ,the top of the arch is studded with lovely stalactites1 clear as glass1 that extend to the outer edge of the arch and form massive and beautiful groups there4 ,above the arch is a large opening4 ,in truth the side of the room is out1 and a great dark space appears like a curtain of black4 ,a natural path leads up over one side of the arch1 and following the lead of the guide you go up above and learn that a room on the higher level extends off in that direction and gets larger and higher4 ,the walls are stalagmitic columns in cream color and decked in places with blood-red spots or blotches of ,titanic size4 ,the ceiling you cannot see4 ,it is too high for the lights you have to reach4 ,on the left you are suddenly confronted by a stalagmitic formation so large and so grand that all others are dwarfed into insignificance4 ,you think of the dome of the ,capitol at ,washington4 ,you are standing at the sloping base but cannot see the top4 ,just here the guide announces in an awestruck voice ',blondy's ,throne4' ,and who is ,blondy8 ,only a fair-haired1 blue-eyed1 intrepid and daring fifteen-year-old boy1 named ,charles ,smallwood1 who assisted the writer in exploring the cave in the early days of #ahhc1 and going on in advance1 reported back that he had found another and a greater throne than the ,great ,white ,throne in the ,auditorium4 ,illustration3 ,blondy's ,throne4 ,page #dg4 ,well1 here we are at ,blondy's ,throne at last1 and surveying the base1 we find that it is actually only half in the room we are in2 the other half forms the side of another room4 ,in a word1 the ,great ,throne divides the room into two parts and makes two rooms of it instead of one4 ,yet the one half of the base has a measurement1 by tape line1 of one hundred and fifty feet4 ,the guide now makes preparations to ascend the ,throne4 ,a chain has been fastened up towards the top1 and by taking hold of this the climb can be made up the sloping sides of the ,throne4 ,we pass on and up over the clearest and most ice-like formation1 resembling the great icebergs seen at sea4 ,reaching an elevation of sixty feet an opening into the dome is found1 and stooping1 you enter4 ,it is a room about twenty feet across1 with a white ice-like floor1 a roof or ceiling ten feet above1 and from it hang thousands of brilliant stalactites and from the floor stalagmites rise up to meet them4 ,they are in all sizes1 from an inch to two feet across4 ,the sides are of the same material joined and cemented lightly together4 ,strike any of them and clear musical notes are given off2 a musician has found two full octaves4 ,water is dripping in many places1 and in the center of the floor is a tank full of clear water4 ,it is four feet wide1 twelve feet long and of unknown depth4 ,on the opposite side of the room from which you enter there is a hole or opening in the wall4 ,it is large enough to go through but it goes into the great dark room on the other side of the ,throne4 ,an abyss confronts you1 a sheer precipice which descends for many feet1 perhaps hundreds4 ,no man knows4 ,this outer room of ,blondy's ,throne has been named the ,chamber of the ,fairies4 ,leaving it and continuing the ascent1 the top of the ,throne is soon reached and is about twenty feet across2 and from several points still higher1 rise stalagmitic spires4 ,the actual height of ,blondy's ,throne is not known1 but is probably about one hundred feet4 ,again look upwards for the ceiling from the dizzy height on top of the ,throne2 you cannot see it4 ,burn magnesium ribbon and look up1 and you see a white ceiling spangled with groups of stalactites4 ,it is surely one hundred feet away4 ,then look off into the unknown room which is called the ,great ,beyond4 ,no human being has ever explored or even entered it1 but fire balls thrown in reveal the fact that it is of great extent2 and part of the bottom water and part land4 ,no way of getting into it has ever yet been found1 so its mysteries1 lessons and revelations are still safe from human intrusion4 ,how far it goes1 where it stops1 and what it leads to1 are facts for some future explorer to discover4 ,bats and white salamanders are found in ,blondy's ,throne ,room1 and some larger animals have been heard to jump into the water and escape on the approach of man1 but their species is not known4 ,the arched passage of ,mystic ,river has been followed up for a journey of an hour1 but further than that its extent is unknown4 ,it was hoped that a way would be thus found into the ,great ,beyond1 but it did not prove successful4 ,a well equipped party could find there a chance for some grand discoveries1 and it would be one of the notable pleasures of the life of the writer to be one of such a party4 ,the exit from ,blondy's ,throne ,room is always made with deep regret that the waning lights and meager supplies will not allow a longer stay4 ,the long crawl1 the mud and the water are all forgotten1 and notwithstanding the terror of the trip one feels well repaid4 ,we thank ,mr4 ,powell for a charming journey without its discomfort and danger1 and resume our travels at the ,waterfall4 ,from the foot of the ,waterfall we returned again to the ,auditorium1 in time to enjoy a sight such as we supposed could exist only in a brilliant imagination2 and the return at that hour was not a lucky accident of fate1 but the result of careful attention to a prearranged design that we should not fail to witness a marvelous display never surpassed by lavish ,nature4 ,the day outside was one of cloudless summer sunshine4 ,illustration3 ,blondy's ,throne ,room4 ,page #ej4 ,illustration3 ,foot of ,waterfall4 ,page #ej4 ,our eyes having grown accustomed to the dim light of candles in passages where absolute darkness1 unrelieved by the stars of midnight1 always reigns1 the great ,auditorium appeared before us softly flooded with daylight diffused from a broad white beam slanting down in long straight lines from the entrance as from a rift in heavy clouds2 only this rift displayed around its edges a brilliant border of vegetation that the rough rocks cherish with tender care4 ,as we stood lost in almost speechless admiration1 and without the slightest warning of treasure yet in store1 the white beam was stabbed by a narrow1 gleaming shaft of yellow sunlight4 ,the glorious1 radiant beauty of the picture presented is utterly indescribable1 but it was of short duration1 and in a few seconds the golden blade was withdrawn as suddenly as it had appeared4 ,if the genius of ,elkins had been granted the privilege we enjoyed1 the artist-world of ,europe that graciously yielded the highest honor to his ,sunbeam on ,mount ,shasta1 would have knelt in rapturous humility4 ,speaking of his great work1 as we stood before it only a few months before his death1 ,mr4 ,elkins said quietly3 ,it is no great achievement2 ,i simply painted it exactly as it looked4 ,anyone could do the same4 ,but no one ever has4 ,the white beam was more enduring and by its aid we were able to view the expanse of the great ,auditorium far better than could have been done in the momentary glare of any brilliant artificial light4 ,every part of the cloud-gray walls shows a stratification as regularly horizontal as if the laying of each course had been done with the assistance of line and level2 while in every direction are now seen hundreds of stalactites that had not been noticed before1 and although they look small1 the average length1 taken with the surveying instruments1 is fourteen feet4 ,the ,hill beneath the entrance is an accumulation of debris1 drifted in from the outside1 and rising to a height of more than one hundred and twenty-five feet2 while the great circumference of its supporting base1 revealed by the banishment of shadows1 suggests the possibility of tragic history of which the only evidence lies buried there and may or may not ever be discovered2 but let us step lightly1 since our feet may press the covering that shields a final sleep2 and also let a grieving sister in her old age take comfort in the knowledge that here1 as in few other spots1 nature provides a certain and gentle burial for the unfortunate1 and for a few seconds each day lights the dim chamber with a heavenly glory--perhaps in appeal to the sons of one country to harbor no such feelings as deprived ,abel of life and for all time and eternity tarnished the honor of ,cain4 ,illustration3 ,entrance to ,cave--,interior ,view4 ,page #eb4 ,the chilliness presently recalled us from further indulgence in that great scene1 to ordinary affairs2 and consulting the reliable thermometer1 it was found to register #db1 while in some of the lower passages the temperature is #eh2 but the variation is not in accordance with the accepted theory of one degree to the one hundred feet descent4 ,a return to the beautiful ,spring of ,youth ,room was now a necessity1 but we were careful to allow no drop of water falling from clay-stained hands to reach the purity of that lovely bowl1 and then being happy and hungry1 we retired to the piano's protecting tent for refreshment4 ,the atmosphere in ,marble ,cave has the peculiar bracing and invigorating quality common to the majority of caves1 that seems almost to defy fatigue and encourage exertion that under ordinary conditions would be impossible4 ,after the exertion necessary in the warmer portions of the cave1 the temperature of #db proved rather low for comfort and finally was admitted to be a sufficient reason for either leaving the cave or sending out for the wraps4 ,slowly and reluctantly the party walked up the long winding path to the summit of the ,hill where the stairway finds support1 stopping many times to admire again the perfect curves and fine color-tones of that wonderful high arch--within a mountain yet softly radiant with the light of day4 ,still lingering regretfully among the fern-decked rocks before quite finishing the ascent to the actual outside world1 the mercury lost little time in registering eighty degrees4 ,since no official1 or even approximately correct map of ,marble ,cave has yet been published1 and the desirability of maps is particularly urged by ,monsieur ,e4,a4 ,martel1 a special effort was made to secure one1 which was accompanied by the following remarks from ,mr4 ,prince in regard to its incompleteness3 ,there are several passages and rooms which do not appear on the map1 though some of them are well known1 but have not been surveyed and platted4 ,much further exploration is possible in this great cavern4 ,lost ,river ,caon ends abruptly in a bank of red clay1 the volume of water being undiminished4 ,the water from the ,great ,fall flows by a small serpentine into a passage which has never been followed up2 its entrance being several hundred feet higher than the nearest water level4 ,unfortunately the quantity of water in the cave at the time of the visit just described was so unusually great as to render the ,lost ,river ,caon trip impossible4 ,during the previous season the cave and its surroundings were visited by a prominent naturalist who appears to have been delightfully liberal in the diffusion of scientific knowledge and the explanations of methods of pursuing investigations4 ,his practical instruction in snake catching is particularly interesting as it was never before introduced into this state1 where the copperhead and rattler are known to have survived among the fittest4 ,seeing a snake hole and desiring information as to the family record of the proprietor1 he inserted a finger1 and while waiting for results explained that there is no better way to secure a specimen1 as the enraged reptile will fasten its fangs into the intruding member and then can be easily withdrawn4 ,it is a pleasure to state that even snakes recognize the claims of friendship1 and no injury was experienced4#b ,in the vicinity of ,marble ,cave there are several choice varieties of onyx and marble1 among them a rare and beautiful onyx in black and yellow4 ,the coloring1 tinting and banding of onyx seem generally to be regarded as one of the unexplainable mysteries of nature1 but is in reality an extremely simple process that can be easily studied in any active cave4 ,when the percolating acidulated water passes slowly through a pure limestone it is filtered of impurities and deposits a crystal1 either pure white or transparent2 if it comes in contact with metallic bodies of any kind1 it carries away more or less in solution to act as coloring matter2 the beautiful pale green onyx in several ,missouri counties taking its tint from the copper2 in ,south ,dakota1 manganese in various combinations produces black and many shades of brown2 in both states an excessive flow of water often carries a quantity of red or yellow clay which temporarily destroys the beauty of exposed surfaces1 but in after years becomes a fine band of brilliant color4 ,small wind caves are numerous in the ,ozarks and being cold are frequently utilized for the preservation of domestic supplies4 ,the entrance to one in the neighborhood of ,marble ,cave is high up on the hill-side south of ,mr4 ,powell's house and being visible from the porch was too tempting to be ignored1 and the walk up to it for a better view was rewarded with a most charming bit of scenery as well4 ,all the quiet valley1 divided by a rushing little stream1 lay before us in the shadow of early evening1 while to the north and east the hills were brilliant in summer sunshine1 with one small open glade gleaming vividly among the darker shades of forest green4 ,the cave was a very small room at the bottom of a steep1 rocky1 sloping passage1 and contained no standing water1 although there had been a heavy rainfall the night before and the opening is so situated as to especially favor the inflow1 which naturally indicates a greater cave beneath a hidden passage4 ,here1 as in most of the caves of the region1 is found a small lizard3 it is totally blind but its ancestors evidently were not1 as is shown by conspicuous protuberances where the eyes should be1 but over which the skin is drawn without a wrinkle or seam to indicate a former opening4 ,these harmless creatures are not scaly1 but are clothed in a soft1 shining1 well-fitted skin1 and the largest seen were little more than six inches long4 ,those who love perfect ,nature in a most smiling mood should hasten to visit ,marble ,cave while yet no railroad quite touches the county4 ,,footnotes3 #b ,the naturalist referred to is the late ,prof4 ,e4,d4 ,cope4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,fairy ,,cave ,,and ,,powell ,,cave4 ,fairy ,cave enjoys the reputation of being the most beautiful yet discovered in that cavernous region1 and consequently a visit to it was contemplated with considerable eagerness1 although the mode of entrance had been described with sufficient accuracy to prevent any misconception of the difficulties to be overcome or the personal risk involved4 ,to go from our temporary abiding place it was necessary to pass ,marble ,cave1 and when we had gone that far ,mr4 ,powell left us to follow the road1 while he1 on his mule1 took a short cut across the hills and valleys1 to try to find men not too much occupied with their own affairs on a fine ,monday morning1 in corn plowing time1 to join our expedition4 ,as neither our small companion1 ,merle1 nor ourselves1 had any knowledge of the locality of our destination1 we were carefully instructed to follow the main road to the ,wilderness ,ridge1 and keeping to that1 pass the ,indian ,creek road and all others that are plain1 but turn down the second dim road and follow it until stopped by a new fence where we would be met and conducted4 ,so long as points to be passed held out1 these directions gave us no trouble whatever1 even the first dim road offering no obstacle to the pleasure of our progress2 but the second dim road proved so elusive we traveled many miles in search of it1 finally bringing up against a place ,merle was familiar with and knew to be a long way off the track of our intentions4 ,as there was nothing to be done but return we naturally accepted the situation and did that2 presently finding ,mr4 ,powell and the ,messrs4 ,irwin1 on whose land the cave is1 patiently waiting for us in what was really not a road at all1 but rather1 in this region of fossils1 the badly preserved impression of one long since extinct4 ,the new fence was opened at two places that we might drive through and be saved the exertion of walking a considerable distance1 then the horses were left in the shade while we scrambled down the steep hill-side covered with sharp-edged1 broken rock1 about mid-way down which is the mouth of the cave1 yawning like a narrow1 open well4 ,above this a stout windlass has been arranged on two forked logs4 ,a few feet below the surface the cave spreads out jug-shaped1 so that in descending nothing is touched until the floor is reached1 one hundred feet beneath the surface2 consequently the only danger to be apprehended is a fall4 ,each of the three men present kindly offered to go down and make the exploration with me1 but that would have left only two at the windlass1 and for a man's weight1 safety requires four4 ,should an accident occur1 assistance would be necessary1 and some time lost in finding it2 so1 to the undisguised satisfaction of one and equally evident relief of the others1 it was reluctantly decided that the trip must be given up1 and therefore we are indebted to the kindness of ,captain ,powell#c for the following description of ,fairy ,cave3 ,the ,cave referred to is situated in ,section #bd1 ,township #bc1 ,range #bc1 in ,stone ,county1 ,missouri1 and is on the homestead of one of three brothers named ,irwin4 ,it was accidentally discovered in the year #ahie and up to the time of this writing 7,june #ahif7 only six persons have ever entered it4 ,it is in a point or spur of the ,ozark ,mountains which runs to the east from the great ,wilderness ,ridge1 and is three miles distant from the ,marble ,cave4 ,having been one of the first to enter the ,cave1 being called by the owner as a sort of cave expert1 ,i will attempt to describe both the adventure and the cave just as they were4 ,the measurements are simply estimated1 though by long practice ,i have become expert in that line also1 but the longest measurement here was correctly taken by the rope used4 ,having been invited by the ,irwin brothers to come and examine and explore a new cave they had found but had only entered and not explored1 accompanied by my eldest son1 ,w4,t4 ,powell1 ,i reached the place one warm ,saturday morning4 ,we found about twelve or fourteen men waiting for our coming2 some discussing the matter of whether we would enter when we did come1 and others who had volunteered to work the windlass1 which had been erected over the opening1 by means of which1 with a one hundred foot rope1 entrance was to be made4 ,the opening was like a small well1 and situated under the edge of an overhanging cliff of marble1 and on the southeast slope of the mountain1 about one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom of a narrow valley1 and about the same distance below the top of the mountain1 which here is three hundred feet high4 ,in order to rig a windlass the edge of the cliff had to be broken away4 ,the well-like opening descended for about ten feet through strata of flat-laying rocks that formed a roof2 then all appeared to be vacancy and a stone cast in gave back a distant sound4 ,having first tested the air and proved it good by dropping in blazing excelsior saturated with turpentine1 a stout oak stick was attached to the end of the rope1 my son sprang astride and was lowered to the bottom1 just one hundred feet4 ,he reported back ',all right4' ,on the return of the rope ,i took my position on the stick and was soon dangling in mid air4 ,the sensation was strange and exhilarating4 ,looking up ,i could only see the small opening ,i came through1 and a straggling stream of light poured down that1 but on all sides profound darkness reigned supreme4 ,a spark-like light my son lit1 reminded me of the lost ,pleiad4 ,about twenty-five or thirty feet from the top ,i caught sight of a scene that made me call on the men at the windlass to stop4 ,this caused them to think something was going wrong and one called out to know what was the matter3 ,i heard him say ',he is weakening4' ,i assured them everything was right only ,i wanted to take a view2 so they stopped4 ,off at a distance of perhaps twenty-five feet was an opening about ten feet or more wide and twelve feet high4 ,the light from the opening struck it fairly1 owing to the position of the sun at the time4 ,through this opening ,i saw into another room1 large and magnificent4 ,it brought to mind the ,white ,city4 ,it was snowy white1 and thickly studded with stalactites and stalagmites of immense size and in great numbers2 some looking like spires of numerous churches1 and many connected as with a lattice-work about the bottom4 ,for a short time ,i gazed on that lovely scene1 and examined the chances to reach it1 but a great gulf intervened that we had no means of spanning1 and ,i called to the men to lower me down4 ,approaching the bottom one of the walls trended in towards me and ,i stepped upon solid ground close to the wall1 which half way up seemed fifty feet away4 ,the opening above now looked like a small pale moon1 and the next man who came dangling down to join us looked no bigger than a toy soldier4 ,gradually our eyes became accustomed to the twilight1 and by the time our party was increased to six men1 ,i could see quite distinctly4 ,the room runs directly into the mountain and is about ninety feet high1 and where we landed it proved to be twenty feet wide4 ,it extended in both directions1 but much the farthest towards the right hand4 ,the outer room is encrusted in fine white water formations4 ,it forms a ,gothic ceiling from which hang pendant at all places brilliant and sparkling stalactites2 some being of immense size and length1 from ten to twenty-five feet4 ,others are not so large but are brilliant4 ,we created a flood of artificial light with dozens of candles and lamps2 and then and not until then1 could we see the slope and contour of the roof4 ,a few bats were flitting about1 disturbed for the first time4 ,to the left1 a vast white pillar extended from floor to roof4 ,it was pure white and about five feet in diameter all the way up4 ,it was fluted1 fretted1 draped and spangled4 ,i never in my life saw anything more chaste and lovely4 ,i thought of the countless ages it must have taken to form that monument3 of the streams of clear water that had fallen and left their calcite deposits1 while it grew year after year1 age after age1 century after century1 in this profound darkness1 disturbed by no noises save the rhythmic sound of the falling drops and the dull flitting of the bats1 who alone were the living witnesses of its construction4 ,to the rear of this great pillar the room is divided into three galleries1 one above another4 ,with great difficulty and much danger we climbed into each of these4 ,the floors were all like the pillar of pure white onyx1 and extended back a distance of thirty or more feet4 ,the floor of one formed the roof of another4 ,they were brilliant with hanging pendants and the side walls were all veneered with the same white and crystalline formation4 ,to entirely describe them is impossible4 ,a day in each would still leave the observer short of words in which to tell of the wonders4 ,turning towards the right hand from the entrance we advance two hundred feet up an incline of dry clay1 the room widening gradually until its width is forty feet1 when we reach the top of an elevation thirty feet above the starting point1 where a sudden steep descent brings us to a halt4 ,a stone cast down strikes water and the sound of a splash comes back to us4 ,with caution we seek our way down the hill and stand on the edge of a small lake or pond4 ,suddenly my son1 who is in the lead1 rushes back saying3 ',look out6 ,i put my hand on a snake4' ,some of us1 being armed with hickory canes that had been thrown down1 concentrated our lights and advanced4 ,sure enough1 there is a snake a yard long coiled up on a section of rotten wood4 ,it proves to be a copperhead1 the most quarrelsome and vicious snake in this country2 but his nature is changed so that he makes no effort to fight and is killed with a blow1 and is sent to be hoisted up that we may examine him in daylight4 ,no others were found1 and probably he had fallen in at the opening1 and spent a long1 weary time in expiation of his upper-earth crimes4 ,examining the lake we find it to be about forty feet wide and the same long1 and it fills the room from wall to wall4 ,we cannot pass it so must either stop or wade through4 ,we decide to wade1 and on measuring the water find it only two or three feet deep1 with a soft clay bottom1 and in many places islands of stalagmite rise above the surface4 ,on the sides of the lake there are formations in the shape of sofas and lounges1 and they appear to be cushioned1 but the cushions are found to be hard1 solid rock4 ,as the lights advance across the lake new wonders are revealed4 ,curtains and draperies hanging from the top almost touch the water and entirely cut off the view beyond4 ,passing under a curtain at one of the highest places1 we emerge from the lake1 and once more on dry land1 advance up a slope4 ,here the water formations have taken human shapes of all sizes and several colors now appear and help to present a chaos of beauty4 ,two hundred feet more and the chamber ends in a vast waterfall1 but the water has turned to stone4 ,above the waterfall is an opening1 but it is twenty-five feet up a smooth wall and we have no ladder4 ,the journey was at an end4 ,tired1 wet and muddy1 we started on our return trip2 recrossed the dark lake1 and retraced our steps to the place under the opening without realizing that we had spent six hours under ground4 ,while the other members of the party1 and the specimens1 were being raised to the surface1 the writer sought to learn the flora and fauna of this new region4 ,the flora is blank4 ,even the white mold so common in many caves is absent2 and no fungus grows on the poles1 bark and rotten wood that have at some past time been cast in4 ,in animal life the range is greater4 ,i have mentioned the ever-present bats1 and dozens of them were seen4 ,there were also small1 white eyeless salamanders1 small1 yellow1 speckled salamanders1 with signs of eyes but no sight2 also a jet black salamander1 which like the rest1 was blind4 ,the bats were of two species--the common brown bat and the larger light grey or yellow species4 ,but this was not the time of the year to see many bats in caves4 ,in the summer season most of them go out and remain until cool weather1 and then return to the caves with their young2 so ,i was rather surprised to see as many as we did4 ,down comes the rope for the last time1 and taking my place1 ,i soon feel myself spinning around and slowly rising4 ,as ,i again pass the magic city ,i saw going down1 a stronger wish than ever takes possession of me to go there1 and ,i look for any chance to solve the problem of how such a journey can be made4 ',thou art so near and yet so far4' ,suddenly ,i find myself emerging from the ground into a very hot world1 with the evening sun blazing so that the air feels like the scorching heat of an oven2 and my late companions are scattered about under the trees1 no doubt wishing themselves back in the cool regions below the hot cliffs4 ,my final conclusions in regard to ,fairy ,cave were that it was about six hundred feet long by from fifteen to forty feet wide and from eighty to ninety feet high3 that in the upper story there are rooms that ,i could not reach1 that will amply pay the scientist and explorer to investigate in the future3 that probably we reached all the accessible parts in the level we traveled3 that the temperature was fifty-six or very near that degree3 that small as it is1 it contains the finest formations and grandest scenery ,i have ever seen in a cave3 and ,i have examined over one hundred of various sizes4 ,i believe that for interior beauty its equal is not to be found in ,america1 and ,i sincerely believe that the verdict of future exploration will establish the truth of the assertion1 but as equally good judges differ on such matters1 time will be required for a true and just decision4 ,there are yet many promising caves to be explored in this region1 and if my strength holds out a few years ,i hope to see them all4 ,t4 ,s4 ,powell4 ,,powell ,,cave4 ,as a measure of consolation for the disappointment of not seeing the beauty of ,fairy ,cave1 ,mr4 ,irwin suggested that only a quarter of a mile further on was another1 recently discovered and worthy of a visit1 although small4 ,in that region of steep hills and sharp-edged rocks1 a great amount of travel can be added to the experience of a tender-foot in a short distance4 ,the quarter of a mile seemed to stretch out in some mysterious way as we worked on it1 but the variety and abundance of attractions are more than ample compensation4 ,the view was fine1 including as it did the deep ravine and grassy1 wooded slopes rising three hundred feet above1 with here and there a handsome ledge of marble exposed like the nearly buried ruin of a forgotten temple of some past age4 ,scattered about in great profusion among the broken rock on the surface of these hill-sides we observed a water deposit of iron ore4 ,it is a brown hematite and in some cases shows the structure of the bits of wood it has replaced4 ,since this region has from the earliest time produced a generous growth of vegetation1 the decay of which has yielded a never-failing supply of acids to assist in carving the caves and then in their decoration1 the presence of the ore is not difficult to account for4 ,the whole ,ozark uplift being rich in iron1 the acidulated drainage waters coming into contact dissolved and took it in solution1 to re-deposit where and when conditions should be favorable4 ,these conditions were found in the basin among the hills and along its outlet4 ,in the ,popular ,science ,monthly of ,january #ahig1 a short article by ,j4,t4 ,donald1 entitled ,a ,curious ,canadian ,iron ,mine1 describes the same thing going on at the present time in ,lac a la ,tortue1 a small body of water in the center of a tract of swamp land1 which produces the vegetation necessary to supply the acid required for a base of operation4 ,of the manner of deposition he says3 ,the solution of iron in vegetable acid 7in which the iron is in what the chemist calls the form of a protosalt7 is oxidized by the action of the air on the surface of the lake into a persalt1 which is insoluble1 and appears on the surface in patches that display the peculiar iridescence characteristic of petroleum floating on water4 ,indeed1 not infrequently these films of peroxide of iron are incorrectly attributed to petroleum4 ,these films become heavy by addition of new particles2 they sink through the water1 and in this manner1 in time1 a large amount of iron ore is deposited on the lake bottom4 ,it must not be supposed that the ore is deposited as a fine mud or sediment4 ,on the contrary1 in this lake ore1 as it is called1 we have an excellent illustration of what is called concretionary action--that is1 the tendency of matter when in a fine state of division to aggregate its particles into masses about some central nucleus1 which may be a fragment of sunken wood1 a grain of sand1 or indeed a pre-formed small mass of itself4 ,it is claimed for this water ore1 which is gathered like oysters1 that mixed with bog ore and magnetic iron1 and smelted with charcoal1 the result as obtained is strong1 durable and high priced4 ,the curiously elastic quarter of a mile finally yielded to persistent toil1 and the cave was reached4 ,the entrance is sufficiently broad to give a good first impression1 and is under a heavy ledge of limestone which breaks the slope of the hill and is artistically decorated with a choice collection of foliage1 among which is a coral honeysuckle2 the fragrant variety grows everywhere4 ,under the ledge is a narrow vestibule1 out of the north end of which is a passage about twenty-four inches in width1 between perpendicular walls1 and as steeply inclined as the average dwelling-house stairway but without any assisting depressions to serve as steps4 ,mr4 ,irwin cut a grape vine1 and making one end secure at the entrance1 provided a hand rail1 by the aid of which ,i was able to easily descend the stepless way and afterwards remount4 ,the first chamber entered is the principal portion of the cave1 and by actual measurement is forty-nine feet in length by forty-eight in greatest width and the height estimated at fifty feet4 ,on account of irregularities it appears smaller but higher4 ,on opposite sides of the chamber1 at elevation about midway between the floor and ceiling are two open galleries4 ,the floor is extremely irregular with its accumulation of fallen masses of rock1 and the action of water has given to portions of the walls the appearance of pillars supporting the arches of the roof4 ,the whole aspect is that of a small ,gothic chapel4 ,off to the northwest is another room measuring thirty feet in each direction1 and out of this are several openings1 too small to squeeze through1 which indicate the possible existence of other chambers beyond1 but they may be only drain pipes4 ,the cave contains no drip formations1 notwithstanding which it is one of the most charming1 and when invited to name it ,i called it ,powell ,cave1 in honor of the most ardent admirer of caves in that county1 and to whom ,i am much indebted for valued assistance4 ,,footnotes3 #c ,editor of the county news-paper4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,other ,,stone ,,county ,,caves4 ,,gentry ,,cave4 ,the cave nearest to ,galena1 and the first visited by us1 is ,gentry ,cave1 situated a mile and a half from town4 ,we started in the mail coach1 but that vehicle met with a misfortune by no means unusual in that region1 the total wreck of a wheel4 ,having only that morning arrived from the rich agricultural portion of the ,state where no surface rock can be found1 we were pleased enough with the prospect of a walk in such charming spring weather1 and set out with a cheerful certainty that the rough place in the road would soon be passed4 ,but the school of experience is always open for the reception of new-comers and we were admitted to full duty without question4 ,the topography was nearly as broken1 in its way1 as the natural piking spread over it1 and very beautiful with the dense forests lighted by the slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun4 ,the way leads up to the ridge road which is at length abandoned for no road at all1 and descending through the forest1 more than half the distance down to the ,james ,river flowing at the base of the hill1 we come suddenly in view of the cave entrance1 which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces of natural architecture ever seen4 ,rounding a corner by a narrow path1 we step onto a covered portico ninety-seven feet long1 with an average width of ten feet4 ,the floor is smooth and level1 as also is the ceiling1 which is nine feet above1 supported by handsomely carved pillars and rising in a gray cliff projecting from the slope of the hill above1 out to the brink of the more abrupt descent to the water's edge ninety feet below4 ,between the pillars are three large door-ways into the cave4 ,the comparison suggested is an ,egyptian temple1 and the idea is continued within1 where there are no chambers as in other caves2 but instead1 the entire interior is a labyrinth of passages winding about in every direction among an uncounted number of low massive pillars1 some supporting a low ceiling and others connected by high arches1 the highest point being estimated at sixty feet1 but appearing to be more1 because the enclosed space rising to a dome is so narrow that the point of view is necessarily directly underneath4 ,all exposed surfaces of pillars and walls inside the cave are of clay or a soft porous rock having the same appearance1 and are covered with curious little raised markings like the indescribable designs of mixed nothing generally known as ,persian patterns4 ,this is1 of course1 easily explained2 the clay being the residuum from disintegrated limestone1 the markings described are the harder portions of the rock remaining after particles of clay had been carried out by flowing water while the disintegrating process was yet incomplete4 ,the ,drinking ,fountain is considered the great attraction of the cave1 and appears to have been fashioned to suggest a model for the handsome soda fountains belonging to a later period4 ,the water bowl is a large depression worn in the top of a rock which seems to have been built into the wall4 ,in front it is five feet high and nine feet across1 with artistic corners approximately alike1 and at the back ornamental carving extends upward towards the ceiling with an opening through the wall at the center4 ,this opening is divided by a short column down which water trickles to supply the bowl4 ,the ceiling here is about thirty-five feet high and most of the exposed surface is a blue-gray limestone4 ,only one portion of ,gentry ,cave has received a deposit of dripstone and even that is of limited extent1 and located at the end of a narrow slippery passage between high1 slippery walls4 ,the fine entrance is of grey limestone in undisturbed horizontal strata1 and this is so plainly marked in the roof-supporting pillars as to give them the appearance of having been prepared by skillful hands1 in several blocks1 and afterwards arranged in place without the aid of mortar4 ,unfortunately1 all efforts to photograph this wonderful portico have failed to give satisfaction--its position above the river being such as to afford no point for the proper placing of the camera2 but a second visit made for the purpose of trying was far from being a loss1 and part of the reward consisted of finding among the sheltered rocks1 scarcely three feet above the floor1 two humming birds' nests with their treasure of small eggs1 and our little companion who discovered them was pleased to leave them untouched4 ,,sugar ,,tree ,,hollow ,,cave4 ,the name of this cave is due to the fact that the approach is through a hollow well wooded with sugar maple trees4 ,it is two miles from ,galena and the drive a beautiful one1 as much of the way is through the forest without a road1 but with a charming little rushing1 crooked stream of clear1 cold water3 and in places the green slopes give way to mural bluffs of grey limestone in undisturbed strata4 ,the entrance to the cave is through a hole about two feet high by three in width1 into which we went feet first and wiggled slowly down an incline covered with broken rock1 for a distance of fifteen feet1 where a standing depth is reached4 ,a flat1 straight1 level ceiling extends over the whole cave without any perceptible variation1 and this is bordered around its entire length and breadth with a heavy cornice of dripstone1 made very ornamental by the forms it assumes1 and the multitude of depending stalactites that fall as a fringe around the walls4 ,the line of contact between the cornice and ceiling is as clear and strong as if both had been finished separately before the cornice was put in place by skillful hands4 ,dripstone covers the walls1 which vary in height from one foot to twenty feet1 according to the irregularities of the floor1 just as the width of this one-room cave varies with the curves of the walls1 which are sweeping and graceful1 the average being twenty-nine feet1 but is much greater at the entrance where the entire slope extends out beyond the body of the cave4 ,the length1 from north to south1 measures two hundred and thirty-three feet exclusive of an inaccessible extension4 ,the south end of the cave rises by a steep slope to within a foot of the ceiling with which it is connected by short but heavy columns of dripstone1 and another line of pillars of graduated height meets this at right angles near the middle and ends in an immense stalagmite that stands at the foot of the slope like a grand newel post4 ,there is no standing water in the cave1 but everything is wet with drip1 and consequently the formation of onyx is actively progressing and the south slope already mentioned shows a curious succession of changes in cave affairs4 ,by the slow action of acidulated waters1 the grey limestone deteriorated into a yellowish clay-bank1 and now its particles are being re-united into solid rock by the deposit of calcium carbonate from the drip4 ,a careful test of the temperature of the atmosphere showed it to be fifty-eight degrees4 ,,pine ,,run ,,cave4 ,this also is a small cave easily visited from ,galena1 being less than two miles distant on the ,marionville road4 ,the entrance faces the road and is on the same level1 consequently it is one of the easiest to visit4 ,just within is seen an opening in the ceiling1 which we are told is one of the two ways to an upper chamber whose chief attraction is a dripstone piano1 and the means of ascending is at hand in the form of a ,spanish ladder2 but an attempt of that sort might even cause the new woman to hesitate1 and who hesitates is lost4 ,the ascent was not made4 ,we advanced on a level with the road for a distance of perhaps twenty feet1 when the direction of the cave changed with a right angular turn and we were in a straight gallery about two hundred and fifty feet long and fifteen feet in width1 the height gradually decreasing to about three feet towards the upper end1 where it widened out into a low but broad chamber4 ,the floor of this chamber is most beautiful4 ,it is composed of a series of connected calcite bowls whose beautifully fluted rims are of regular and uniform height1 and all are equally filled with clear1 still water4 ,a great number of these basins are said to have been destroyed by an ax in the hands of a poor witless creature for the gratification of a burst of temper1 and a magnificent stalagmitic column1 too heavy for one man to lift1 lay detached and broken1 in proof that his body did not share the feebleness of his mind4 ,beyond these basins is a low passage through which is found the second entrance to the upper chamber1 but the basins must be crossed in order to reach it1 and this is not an easy undertaking even when their water supply is low1 but in the early summer they are almost full4 ,there are said to be more than one hundred caves in ,stone ,county1 one of which is supposed to be fully as large as ,marble ,cave1 if not larger1 and is located in the southern part of the county but has not been explored4 ,mill ,cave is in the northeast of the county1 and at the entrance is a saw mill which receives its working power from the cave stream4 ,inside the cave there is a lake4 ,hermit's ,cave is a few miles from ,galena1 and is so named on account of having been used as a dwelling by its former owner1 who kept a coffin in which he intended to place himself before the final summons1 but was overtaken by death in the forest and it was never used4 ,he wrote sermons on the rocks in his cave and one of these was afterwards removed4 ,wolf's ,den is also near ,galena1 and has been utilized as a sheep fold4 ,wild ,man's ,cave is near ,galena1 and on account of the stories with which people have been frightened1 can only be visited by permission and with a guard stationed at the entrance4 ,reynard's ,cave is four miles west of ,galena on the farm of ,dr4 ,fox1 but is so nearly filled up with dripstone that only crawling room remains4 ,the doctor's place is a fine locality for the collection of fossils4 ,at a distance of twelve miles from ,galena there is said to be a fine natural bridge1 well worth a visit and sufficiently near ,mill ,cave for both to be seen on the same trip4 ,in ,bread ,tray ,mountain there is supposed to be a cave through which a torrent rushes at times1 that being the only way in which to explain the strange thundering1 roaring noise always heard after a storm1 and never at other times4 ,besides being a wonderful cave region1 and rich in the great abundance and variety of native fruits and fine timber1 ,stone ,county has a vast amount of mineral wealth1 the heaviest deposits being zinc1 lead and iron1 with some indications of silver1 gold and copper1 which have been found but not in paying quantity4 ,already since the summer of #ahif several exceptionally pure bodies of zinc have been discovered1 the white ore of one recently opened deposit giving highly gratifying indications as to extent4 ,prospecting may be said to have only commenced in this very far from over-crowded region4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,oregon ,,county ,,caves4 ,,greer ,,spring4 ,oregon ,county is also at the extreme southern limit of the ,state of ,missouri and was visited1 not because its caves are supposed to be either finer or more numerous than those of all the other ,ozark counties1 but on account of remarkable attractions associated with them that are not known to be equaled1 or even subject to rivalry1 by any similar works of nature in any portion of the world4 ,the most convenient railway point is ,thayer2 the station hotel affords comfortable accommodations for headquarters1 and the last days of ,september proved a charming time4 ,the foliage was in full summer glory1 refreshed by a gentle and copious rain1 and the insinuating tick had already retired from active business until the following season4 ,the carriage having been ordered on condition of its being a clear day1 we left ,thayer at eight o'clock on a perfect morning to visit ,greer ,spring1 and were soon in the depth of the beautiful ,ozark forest1 from which we did not once emerge until ,alton1 the county seat1 was reached1 the distance traveled being sixteen miles4 ,here we stopped for dinner at the small hotel kept by one of the old-time early settlers who came to the region before the war4 ,the dinner was a surprise1 and received the highest commendation possible to a dinner1 the hearty appreciation of a boy4 ,a young nephew1 ,arthur ,j4 ,owen1 having been invited to act as escort on the trip1 found all the varied experience in cave hunting fully equal to the pictured joys of anticipation4 ,after a large bell suspended somewhere outside had notified the business public that dinner was ready to be served1 we were invited to the dining-room1 where on a long table was the abundance of vegetables afforded by the season and soil of an almost tropical state1 and cooked as the white-capped chef of the great hotel1 where the warm weeks were spent1 had not learned the secret of2 and the delicately fried chicken was not of that curious variety1 commonly encountered by travelers1 in which the development of legs robs the centiped of his only claim to distinction4 ,as the dishes cooled they were removed and fresh supplies brought in4 ,our driver received directions about the road and we started on another drive of seven miles4 ,these directions were to follow the main road to the forks1 and then keep to the ,van ,buren road and any one could tell us where ,captain ,greer lives4 ,the road was1 as before1 through the park-like forest1 and as before1 lay chiefly along the ridge1 so that where clearings had been made for farms there were fine views over the distant country1 which everywhere was forest-covered hills1 of a rich green near at hand but changing with the growth of distance1 first to dark1 and then to lighter blue4 ,in these forests were fine young cattle and horses1 and uncounted numbers of razorbacks1 or as they are otherwise called1 wind-splitters4 ,for the benefit of those who may not be familiar with the names1 it might be well to explain that they are the natural heirs of the native wild hog of ,missouri and ,arkansas4 ,the nephew was greatly amused at seeing many of them with wooden yokes on their long necks1 to prevent an easy entrance into fields and gardens by squeezing through the spaces between fence rails4 ,these animals are such swift runners it is said they can safely cross the railroad between trucks of the fast express4 ,their snouts are so long and thin1 it is also claimed that two can drink from a jug at the same time2 never having seen it done1 however1 this is not vouched for1 but merely repeated as hearsay4 ,illustration3 ,wilderness ,pinery1 ,oregon ,co4 ,page #hd4 ,after a time we stopped to inquire the way of an old man dipping water from a pond by the roadside4 ,he told us he was dipping water to wash the wheat he was sowing in the field just over the fence1 and that we reach the forks1 then to keep the ,van ,buren road1 pass two houses on the left1 a white one on the right1 another on the left and then inquire the way--anyone could tell us1 and ,captain ,greer would show us to the ,spring1 for he is a mighty accommodating man4 ,on we went to the forks where in the point of the ,y stood a large tree with a ,van ,buren sign-board on one side1 and in the direction it pointed1 we turned1 although rather reluctantly1 for it looked little used and rocky1 while the other was in good condition2 but we followed the sign-board and had no misgivings until it began to be realized that a great deal of time was being passed but no houses4 ,the morning had been very chilly1 but now the atmosphere was just at that balmy point between warm and cool that makes mere living an unqualified luxury2 and added to this we soon found ourselves in a deep caon no less beautiful than the justly celebrated ,north ,cheyenne ,caon near ,colorado ,springs4 ,there was now no doubt that we were on the wrong road1 but such magnificence was unexpected and not to be turned from with indifference4 ,for some distance the road makes a gradual and rather perilous looking descent along the steep and broken slope on the shady side of the ancient river's great retaining-wall1 while that opposite is glorified by the brilliant glow of the afternoon sun1 which adds an equal charm to the rich1 luxuriant foliage below and the tall stately pines that adorn1 without concealing1 the grey rock they proudly cling to1 or that rises in a protecting rampart three hundred feet higher than the caon bed1 with banners of the long-needled pine waving above to proclaim the perfection of ,nature's undisturbed freedom4 ,the road descending crosses the thread of water still flowing among the great rounded bowlders left by the former torrent1 and our view is changed to one of dense1 but by no means melancholy1 shadows1 with a crown of golden sunlight2 and presently the course of the caon turns to the east1 and it is all filled with the yellow rays and we notice the bright red hawthorn berries1 and masses of hydrangea still showing remnants of their late profusion of bloom4 ,we ,missourians have a great love of fine scenery and generally take long journeys into other states in order to gratify the taste1 while quite unconscious of the wonderful beauty and grandeur of the ,ozarks4 ,where the caon begins to broaden into a small sheltered valley as it approaches ,eleven ,points ,river1 we turned and retraced our way to the forks1 and a short distance beyond to a house where we might again inquire4 ,a woman came to the open door as we stopped and in answer to a question said3 ,you ought to have asked me when you passed here a while ago4 ,apologies for the seeming neglect were offered and accepted1 then she explained that both roads went to ,van ,buren but not to ,greer ,spring1 where in due time we at length arrived4 ,the house being in one corner of a forty and the spring in that diagonally opposite1 there was a walk of nearly that distance before coming to an old road inclining steeply down into what looked to be a narrow caon4 ,about midway of this sloping road1 the space confined between perpendicular walls1 rising to heights above on one side and descending to the stream on the other1 widens suddenly and a picturesque old mill comes into view1 it having been wholly screened from the approach by the rich growth of shrubs and trees4 ,chief in abundance among this luxury of leaf was the hydrangea1--a favorite shrub largely imported into this country from ,japan before it was discovered as a native4 ,the mill site seems to have been selected for its beauty although we were told that at this point the stream is seventy-two feet wide1 and two and one half feet deep1 but could be raised thirty feet with perfect safety by a dam1 for which the rock is already on the ground and much of it broken ready for use4 ,the flow is said to be two hundred and eighty yards per minute1 with no appreciable variation1 and never freezes4 ,the high walls of the ,greer ,spring gorge will1 of course1 far more than double the value it would otherwise possess1 when it becomes desirable to control and turn to practical account the power now going so cheerily to waste1 but the artistic loss will be proportionately severe4 ,the old mill was the scene of great activity in former times1 but was closed on account of an unfortunate accident and for years has had no other duty than simply to serve as a portion of the landscape4 ,just beyond1 the caon makes a curving bend1 the road dwindles to a narrow path and we behold the most beautiful scene imaginable4 ,the caon has come to an end and is shut in by a graceful curve of the high1 perpendicular grey walls that are crowned with trees and shrubs1 and decked below with a thick carpet of bright green moss4 ,in this basin1 which is nearly one hundred feet across1 ,greer ,spring plunges up from beneath through an opening nine feet in diameter1 in the midst of a pool of water six feet deep1 and having an unvarying temperature of forty-nine degrees throughout the year4 ,this water is so perfectly clear that not the least pebble is obscured from view1 and the color scheme is most marvelous4 ,illustration3 ,greer ,spring4 ,page #hh4 ,where the great spring forces its way to the surface1 the water is a deep1 brilliant blue with white caps1 and its falling weight keeps clear of moss a large spot of fine1 pure1 white sandstone1 while all the balance appears a vivid green from the moss that thrives beneath the moving water2 and surrounding these are the handsome1 foliage-decked grey walls4 ,the edges of the basin are thickly strewn with fallen rocks deeply covered with moss1 in which small ferns are growing1 and on these gay stepping stones we crossed to the head-wall of the caon to find ourselves at the open mouth of a cave from which flows a clear1 shallow stream to join the waters of the ,spring in that wonderful basin4 ,the entrance to the cave is an arch about fifteen feet wide and twelve feet high1 with the clear1 shallow stream spreading over the clean rock floor from side to side4 ,here now was presented a difficulty4 ,truly the cave was not quite dry4 ,the water was about ten inches deep1 and my boots in ,thayer4 ,contrary to advice1 however1 my nephew had brought his1 and with a boy's kindness loaned them while he made the trip with bare feet and rolled up trousers4 ,a short distance within1 the cave widens and the floor of the extension being somewhat higher1 is dry1 but the roof drops so low over it that the water-course is an easier route of travel2 and this soon widens into a lake above which the ceiling rises in a broad dome less than twenty feet in height1 and hung with heavy masses of dripstone draperies of varying length1 from five to seven feet2 and all the ceilings are fringed at various heights with stalactites of every size and age1 some being a clear1 colorless onyx1 while others proclaim their great age in the fact that they have so deteriorated that the onyx texture is either partly or completely lost1 and what was once a pure drip crystal has returned to a common1 porous1 dull-colored limestone so soft that portions can be rubbed to powder in the hand4 ,picking the way carefully as the depth of the lovely lake increased1 we followed the sound of falling water and peered into the dark distance in a vain effort to see it1 yet expecting to reach that special object of interest by keeping to the shallower parts of the lake4 ,these expectations were shattered suddenly when the boots filled with water1 and that called to mind the fact that twenty-three miles and a chilly night lay between us and dry clothing2 so we returned to the outside world and rested on the rocks where ,captain ,greer and our young driver waited for us4 ,the cave has never been fully explored1 and probably we penetrated farther than others have ever done1 as the owner knew nothing of the falling water we so distinctly heard and were surely very near4 ,the view from the rocks is wonderfully beautiful and includes both the entrance to the cave1 with its flowing stream1 and the receiving basin with its bounding stream4 ,but it was growing late in the afternoon1 and there was another cave whose entrance was in the perpendicular wall above the end of the path by which we had come4 ,this entrance could be reached by a dilapidated ladder2 assisted by a forked pole and supplied with candles and matches1 my nephew and ,i achieved the ascent with not much trouble4 ,here we found what is1 no doubt1 one of the oldest caves known4 ,the original cavity is nearly filled up with masses of onyx--colorless crystal and white striped with pale shades of grey4 ,the cave is perfectly dry and freshly broken surfaces in some places show signs of deterioration1 so how can we venture even a guess as to the time it has required to first excavate the cave and then fill it with masses of rock deposited by the slow drip process1 and later1 for that crystalline rock in a now dry atmosphere to present a perceptible weakening8 ,we went as far as passages could be crawled into1 which was no great distance1 and at once started on our uncertain descent of the ladder2 but this was not a matter of so much concern as the upward trip1 for the success of which some doubts were entertained2 for going down is always naturally a less certain matter1 as one can fall if more desirable means are unsuccessful1 and ,i have unexpectedly reached many coveted points in this simple manner4 ,taking a last look at ,greer ,spring with its cave river1 grey walls1 gay with foliage1 and all the harmony of color and form combined in the narrow caon that was once the main body of a great cave1 ,i recalled views on the ,hudson ,river and in the mountains of ,maryland1 ,virginia and ,pennsylvania1 and others out in the ,rocky ,mountains in ,colorado and the ,wausatch in ,utah1 but amid all their wonderful grandeur and famous beauty1 could remember no spot superior to this masterpiece of the ,ozarks4 ,the proprietor of the ,spring and a thousand acres of land adjacent1 took personal possession on the day of ,lincoln's first election1 to establish a home4 ,the sun having failed to consider our wishes was now about to disappear in a gleaming flood of gold1 so the return to ,thayer that night was out of the question4 ,our host and his wife observed that fact and cordially invited us to remain for the night and as much longer as we would like to1 but being unwilling to impose on kindness to such an extent1 we returned to the hotel in ,alton1 and now urgently advise that those who ever have an opportunity to enjoy a moonlight drive through the ,ozark forests should not let it pass unimproved4 ,,other ,,caves ,,near ,,by4 ,about twelve miles from ,alton there are three other caves worthy of attention4 ,two of these are known only as ,the ,saltpetre ,caves1 and the third as ,the ,bat ,cave4 ,not many persons care to visit the ,bat ,cave1 for although its inhabitants are small1 they have evidently decided to profit by the experience of the ,red ,man and take no risks through hospitality4 ,their warnings can be heard like distant thunder for some distance outside the cave1 and any unheeding intruder is set upon in fury by such vast numbers of the little creatures that his only safety is in hasty retreat4 ,during the war the two ,saltpetre ,caves were worked to a considerable extent1 and also served as safe retreats for the residents of the region1 as well as the visiting ,jonny1 when the vicinity became oppressively blue4 ,both of these caves are especially notable on account of the fine stalactites with which they are abundantly supplied2 most of them being snow white and from fourteen to twenty feet in length4 ,unfortunately1 most of the caves in this region have been deprived of great quantities of their beautiful adornments by visitors who are allowed to choose the best and remove it in such quantities as may suit their convenience and pleasure4 ,those who own the caves1 and those who visit them1 would do well to remember that if all the natural adornment should be allowed to remain in its original position1 it would continue to afford pleasure to many persons for an indefinite time2 but if broken1 removed1 and scattered the pleasure to a few will be comparatively little and that short-lived4 ,the gift of beauty should always be honored and protected for the public good4 ,we were not so fortunate as to discover fossils of any kind in this locality1 although the search was by no means thorough2 but even if it had been the result might have been the same1 since that county and others adjoining have been mapped as ,cambrian4 ,the greater part of the exposed rock is a fine sandstone almost as white as gypsum on a fresh fracture1 and much of it is ripple-marked so as to show a beautifully fluted surface of remarkable regularity4 ,these ripple flutings are sometimes more than an inch in width1 and often less1 but the variations never appear on the same level1 the smallest being seen on the hill-tops and the larger outcropping on the downward slopes4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,grand ,,gulf4 ,oregon ,county1 ,missouri1 is also fortunate in having within its limits the ,grand ,gulf1 which has been declared by competent judges to be one of the wonders of the world2 and it offers a combination of attractions that certainly entitles it to an important place among a limited few of ,america's choicest scenes4 ,the ,gulf is nearly nine miles northwest of ,thayer1 ,missouri1 and about equally distant from ,mammoth ,spring in ,arkansas1 just a little south of the ,missouri state line4 ,the drive is a pleasant one1 as the road winds among the forest-clad hills and passes occasional fields of cotton and corn2 but having been macadamized in very ancient times by the original and all-powerful general government of that early period is somewhat rough1 yet threatens no danger greater than the destruction of wheels4 ,the only approach to the ,gulf is over the hill-tops2 and the entrance in past times1 while it was still a cave1 must have been a sink-hole in the roof of the largest chamber4 ,this chamber is now the upper end of the ,grand ,gulf1 and into it we descended by a rugged path1 sufficiently difficult to maintain expectations of grandeur that are not doomed to disappointment4 ,the precipitous walls1 two hundred feet in height1 bear a faithful record of the energy of circling floods2 but instead of frowning1 as some good people persistently accuse all noble heights of doing1 they seem to look with conscious pride towards the windings of the great rough chasm1 where every available spot has been seized on as a homestead for some form of vegetation4 ,all the great1 dark rock masses that interfere with easy progress along the lowest depth1 were surrounded by a feathery setting of blooming white agaratum2 and each turn in the winding course reveals new charms of rock and verdure with their varying lights and shadows until the crowning glory is reached at the ,natural ,bridge1 about twelve hundred feet from the upper end of the caon4 ,this bridge is magnificent4 ,it was impossible to secure photographs because the abrupt curve by which it is approached gave no point of view for a small camera2 and it was equally impossible to reach desirable points for taking measurements1 but the open arch is not less than twenty feet wide and considerably more than that in height4 ,from the floor or bed of the ,gulf to the road that crosses the bridge is more than two hundred feet4 ,the passage under the bridge makes a curve1 the shortest side of which measures exactly two hundred and nineteen feet1 and as the width varies from twenty to forty feet1 the other side is longer4 ,most of the floor is flat and level as also is the ceiling1 the greatest irregularities being along the wall of greater length which shows at what points the rushing water has spent its force4 ,no water flows through here now except in times of heavy rainfall4 ,the other end of the bridge has a somewhat smaller span but is very handsome1 and the outward views from both are exceedingly fine4 ,after traversing about four hundred feet more of the beautiful1 high-walled ,gulf1 we stood before the grand entrance to the cave1 which is strikingly similar to the first arch of the bridge4 ,the only picture ,i was able to get was taken from the slope of the ,bridge-crown1 one hundred feet below the road1 and merely gives a suggestion of the magnificence waiting peacefully for the crowds of eager and enthusiastic sight-seers who will in the near future rush to this charming region in the ,land of the ,big ,red ,apple4 ,my companions were the same as mentioned in the preceding chapter1 a nephew1 ,james ,arther ,owen1 and an obliging1 tall young man of twenty1 who acted as guide and driver4 ,relieving ourselves of all superfluous burdens just within the cave entrance1 we lighted candles and sat down to wait for our eyes to adjust themselves to the changed condition1 from brilliant sunlight to absolute darkness1 broken only by the feeble strength of three candles4 ,it was noticeable that in the moist atmosphere of the ,missouri caves1 three candles were not more than equal to one in the dry caves of ,south ,dakota4 ,very soon we were able to continue the inspection of our surroundings1 and the large passage we were in would more properly be called a long chamber1 of irregular width but averaging about thirty feet4 ,this ends abruptly nearly five hundred feet from the entrance1 but a small passage scarcely more than six feet high runs off at right angles1 and into this we turn4 ,it is not quite so nearly dry as the outer chamber1 and at a distance of less than one hundred feet we suddenly come to the end of dry land at an elbow of the silently flowing river whose channel we had almost stepped into4 ,the ceiling dipped so we were not able to stand straight1 and the guide said he had never gone farther2 but to his surprise here was a light boat which ,i am ready to admit he displayed no eagerness to appropriate to his own use1 and swimming about it1 close to shore1 were numerous small1 eyeless fish1 pure white and perfectly fearless2 the first ,i had ever seen1 and little beauties4 ,by burning magnesium ribbon we saw that the passage before us was a low arch and occupied from wall to wall by water1 the direction of the flow being into another of somewhat greater size at right angles to that by which we had come1 and at the mouth of this lay the boat4 ,the distance we could see in either direction was of tantalizing shortness1 and the boat was provided with no means of guidance or control1 save an abundance of slender twine which secured it to a log of drift from the outside2 so ,i decided to leave my companions in charge of the main coil of twine while ,i went on an excursion alone1 there being not much evident cause for apprehension as no living cow could ever have made the trip to this favored spot4 ,although the water looked perfectly placid1 the boat drifted with surprising speed1 so that the two scared faces peering after me were soon lost sight of4 ,the channel was nowhere more than six feet wide1 consequently as the boat inclined to drive against either wall ,i was able with care to keep it off the rocks with my hands1 and in the same way guide it around the sharp turns in safety4 ,after several of these turns there appeared the mouth of a passage so much smaller that the roof was only twelve inches above the sides of the boat and ,i could touch both walls at the same time4 ,by running the boat across this it was held in place by the current1 and ,i could sit at ease and enjoy the position1 which even the least imaginative person can readily conceive to have been a novel one4 ,the small eyeless fish had been noticeable in the water everywhere but now came swimming about the boat in an astonishing multitude1 and as unconscious of any possible danger as bees in a flower garden4 ,having no eyes1 they were naturally undisturbed by the light1 so the candle could be held close to the water for a satisfactory examination of the happy creatures4 ,they bore a striking resemblance to minnows1 although a few were larger1 and it is claimed that four or five inches are sizes not unusual1 but they happened not to be on exhibition4 ,even dipping a hand into the water in their midst occasioned no alarm1 and they might have been caught by dozens4 ,the guide now loudly called that he had fears of the twine being cut on the sharp edges of rock1 and that cutting off all possibility of the boat's return1 which being sufficiently reasonable1 explorations were indefinitely suspended1 and a landing soon made4 ,the camera and flash-light were then prepared for taking a view1 and a point of light being needed to work by the nephew was asked to sit in the boat with his candle1 to which he readily consented2 but judging from the developed picture it may be doubted if his pleasure at the time was extremely keen4 ,on leaving the cave the guide said it would not be necessary to return to the upper end of the ,gulf in order to reach the surface1 as the ascent could be made in another place2 and leading the way to the left of the entrance he started up the nearly perpendicular wall1 more than two hundred feet high1 by a sort of blind trail that would have caused a mountain sheep to sigh for wings1 but it was very beautiful4 ,we walked over to the wagon road on the high ridge above the middle of the bridge and going down the forest-clad slopes to the perpendicular wall in which is the smaller of the great arches1 admired from this fair point of view the marvelous grandeur of one of the greatest natural wonders4 ,the weather being perfect after a rain the day before1 there was no need of haste to get indoors1 so we lingered into the afternoon and then drove to the ,mammoth ,spring1 in ,arkansas1 a short distance south of the ,missouri state line1 where the ,cave ,river1 just visited1 comes to the surface in a bounding spring of great force4 ,the distance being little less than nine miles4 ,the basin filled by the ,spring might be called a lake1 as its size of two hundred by three hundred feet gives it that appearance1 and the color is a remarkable deep blue4 ,the volume of water is so nearly uniform that the height seldom varies more than two or three inches1 but three years ago a storm of unusual violence carried out most of the native fish1 and in restocking from ,government supplies1 the clear1 cold water suggested an experiment with mountain trout which are found to be doing well4 ,where ,mammoth ,spring flows out its power is utilized by a flour mill on one bank and a cotton mill on the other1 and the water flowing on forms ,spring ,river1 well known for the charm of its beautiful scenery4 ,this ,spring is described by ,dr4 ,david ,dale ,owen in his ,first ,report of a ,geological ,reconnoissance of the northern counties of ,arkansas1 #aheg and #aheh1 pp4 #fj-fa4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,black ,,hills ,,and ,,bad ,,lands4 ,in order to thoroughly appreciate and enjoy the wonderful caves of ,south ,dakota1 which are found within the limits of the ,black ,hills1 it is necessary to have some knowledge of the geological character and history of that peculiar region4 ,prof4 ,j4,e4 ,todd1 ,state ,geologist1 in his ,preliminary ,report on the ,geology of ,south ,dakota1 gives an interesting ,historical ,sketch of ,explorations in his state1 beginning with the expedition of ,captains ,lewis and ,clark to the upper ,missouri regions in #ahjd-f to explore that portion of the recent ,louisiana ,purchase for the government and notify the ,indians of the transfer2 and including all other important expeditions since that time down to his own official tour of the ,black ,hills and ,bad ,lands in #ahid4 ,his own descriptions are so concise and graphic as to invite quotation4 ,of the ,hills he says3 ,the ,black ,hills have an area of five-thousand square miles of a rudely elliptical form with its major axis1 approximately1 north-northwest4 ,most of this area lies within our state4 ,the true limit of the ,hills is quite distinctly marked by a sharp ridge of sandstone1 three hundred to six hundred feet in relative height1 which becomes broader and more plateau-like towards the north and south ends4 ,this ridge is separated from the higher mass of hills within by a valley one to three miles in breadth1 which is known as the ,red ,valley1 from its brick-red soil1 or the 'race course1' which name was given it by the ,indians because of its open and smooth character1 affording easy and rapid passage around the ,hills4 ,the junction of the outer base of the ,hills with the surrounding table lands has an altitude of three thousand1 five hundred to four thousand feet4 ,within this ,red ,valley one gradually ascends the outer slope of the ,hills and soon enters1 at an altitude of four thousand five hundred or five thousand feet1 the woody portion of the region4 ,this outer slope varies greatly in width and is underlaid by older sedimentary rocks1 cut in almost every direction by narrow deep caons4 ,this feature covers nearly the whole of the western half of the ,hills proper1 where erosion has been less active on account of its distance from the main channels of drainage4 ,usually1 from the broken interior edge of this slope or sedimentary plateau one descends a bluff or escarpment1 and enters the central area of slates1 granite1 and quartzites1 which is carved into high ridges and sharp peaks cut by many narrow and deep valleys and ravines and generally thickly timbered with the common pine of the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,toward the south1 about ,harney ,peak1 the surface is peculiarly rugged and difficult to traverse4 ,toward the north1 also1 about ,terry and ,custer peaks1 a smaller rugged surface appears2 but in the central area between and extending west of the ,harney range is a region which is characterized by open and level parks much lower than the surrounding peaks and ridges4 ,the ,archan rocks which form the core of the ,hills mark the center of the various uplifts which have attended their formation and controlled their history4 ,the coarse granite of ,harney ,peak indicating that1 as the central point of the earliest upheaval1 and the three porphyries known as rhyolite1 trachyte1 and phonolite1 showing the uplifts of later periods to have had their centers a little more to the north1 but the entire area is said to be only about sixty miles long and twenty-five miles in width4 ,it is exceptionally rough and mountainous1 and consequently has great charms for the lover of fine scenery4 ,erosion has only partially denuded the peaks of the sedimentary rocks through which they were thrust up1 or by which they were overlaid during the earlier part of several subsequent periods of submersion4 ,the ,hills1 in these remote times1 led but a doubtful and precarious existence1 being now an isolated island rising out of a shallow sea1 and then1 owing to a general subsidence1 submerged in the ocean to so great a depth that even ,harney ,peak is supposed to have almost1 if not entirely1 disappeared4 ,this up and down motion continued at intervals until the ,fox ,hills epoch of the ,cretaceous ,age1 at the close of which the sea retired forever from that portion of the country4 ,in the next epoch fresh water work began and extensive marshes were formed1 with an abundant growth of vegetation and reptiles4 ,there was also much volcanic violence which resulted in the fine scenery in the north end of the ,black ,hills1 and probably opened the fissures to form ,wind ,cave1 the ,onyx ,caves in the southern hills and ,crystal ,cave near the eastern edge toward the north4 ,this was near the close of the ,cretaceous ,age4 ,but here is a point on which the best authorities who have studied the porphyry peaks1 have failed to agree2 ,prof4 ,n4,h4 ,winchell believing that the intrusion occurred1 probably1 during the ,jura ,trias1 but as ,cretaceous beds1 of more recent date1 are found to have been distorted by the outflow1 it seems that ,professors ,todd1 ,newton and ,carpenter hold the stronger position and that the later time is correct4 ,no record of the next geological stage1 which was the ,eocene1 or earlier part of the ,tertiary ,age1 has been found in the ,hills1 because they were at that time dry land with gently flowing1 shallow streams1 and consequently no strata were laid down2 but they are supposed1 through later evidences1 to have had a tropical climate and vegetation1 enjoyed by large animals of strange new forms4 ,the volume of fresh water afterwards became so great that immense lakes spread over large portions of the west1 one of which occupied most of the region around the ,black ,hills at the beginning of the ,miocene1 and animal life was more abundant than ever before and of higher orders1 many species being the same as are now in existence4 ,the weather became more and more inclement and as the storms increased the erosion of the ,hills also increased1 and the rivers changed to torrents with deep channels4 ,earthquakes are supposed to have occurred and also volcanic eruptions4 ,the ,black ,hills were now rising steadily1 and as the slope of the streams increased1 the channels cut deeper1 and the fissures now known as caves had long been filled with water4 ,the most important of the numerous animals of the ,tertiary ,age yet discovered in the ,hills and surrounding region1 are the ,titanotherium or ,brontotherium1 similar to our ,hippopotamus1 the ,oreodon1 and a small horse having three toes on each foot4 ,a little later in the same ,age the horses were similar to those of the present time and of equal size1 which proves that the wild horses of the ,west were not descended from the few lost by the ,spanish ,invaders4 ,at this time the first lions1 camels1 mastodons1 and mammoths also appeared4 ,the remains of these animals are so abundant in places as to indicate that they perished in herds that were overwhelmed suddenly by great floods1 and many1 no doubt1 huddled together and perished with cold2 for with the beginning of the present age the ,hills had reached their highest elevation1 the inclement weather increased1 and the tropical climate suddenly changed to one extremely cold4 ,it was the beginning of the ,glacial ,period or ,ice ,age1 when a large portion of the ,united ,states is supposed to have been covered by a sheet of ice4 ,the ice is believed to have entered ,south ,dakota from the northeast and its drift across the state limited by a line so closely following the present course of the ,missouri ,river that many of us would be inclined to consider it the western bluff4 ,beyond this line the ice failed to push its way1 but the ,hills were subject to heavy rain storms that filled the streams and carried large quantities of bowlders and other eroded material1 both coarse and fine1 down into the valleys and over the lower hills1 where much of the moderately coarse can now be seen exposed on the surface1 and fine specimens collected without the use of a hammer4 ,the brilliantly colored1 striped and mottled agates1 and the bright1 delicate tints of the quartz crystal1 are particularly attractive to the majority of visitors4 ,the beauty of these gaily colored rocks is quite extensively utilized by the inhabitants of the southern and southeastern hills to supply the place of growing plants which are generally denied by the inconvenience of the water supply4 ,the quartzite of the ,hills is well crystallized and heavy4 ,i have one beautiful specimen of the dark ,indian red variety through which passes a narrow line of pale blue1 and the yellow quartzite or jasper sometimes shows dendrite markings4 ,very great quantities of agates and jasper1 mostly in small pieces1 but unlimited variety1 are to be seen in portions of the ,bad ,lands1 south of the fork of the ,cheyenne ,river1 with an almost equal abundance of baculites and numerous other fossils4 ,the wide expanse of deep ravines and sharp1 barren ridges in the ,bad ,lands is a unique departure from the usual phases of natural scenery that inspire interest and wonder1 but no great admiration1 until one soon learns that the law of compensation has been strictly observed4 ,the beauty of vegetation denied those desolate buttes and ridges is atoned for by a marvelous abundance of most wonderful crystals of aragonite1 calcite1 barite and satin spar2 each to itself1 or two or more combined in beautiful geodes or else arranged in great flat slabs crystallized on both sides of a thin sheet of lime4 ,these slabs are composed of crystals of uniform size and of a pale green tint4 ,but the geodes show some striking combinations of both crystals and colors with an exterior formed like box work1 composed of a very heavy dark material said to be a mixture of barium1 calcium and iron4 ,the interior may be a bright green or lemon yellow1 or perhaps the two in combination1 while others yet may be either of these varieties with the addition of flat crystals of almost transparent satin spar4 ,these crystals also occur in masses of the same box-like formation rising just so much above the surface of the barren ridge they occupy as to give it the appearance of a prairie dog town4 ,one hill-top over which an abundance of detached crystals1 of the palest water-green tint1 has been spread1 gave the impression of being covered with crushed ice4 ,this transformation from a richly tropical to a marvelously barren region1 was accomplished during the time when storms reigned over the ,hills and ice ruled the country to the north and east4 ,the long slender barite crystals of a bright golden brown color are especially beautiful but are generally seen in the specimen stores1 as the deposit is confined to limited areas and the few persons familiar with the locations are not over anxious to introduce the general public4 ,the fossil remains previously referred to are of course only a few of the most important1 but it is remarked as a curious and notable fact that among the fossils of the lower orders of life in the ,bad ,lands1 the heads have not been preserved4 ,on account of scarcity of water it is necessary for parties to carry a supply even when they expect to be in the vicinity of the ,cheyenne ,river and probably ford the ,south fork1 as these waters carry in solution a quantity of alkali that renders them unfit for drinking1 although the effects would not be fatal but simply the extreme reverse of pleasant4 ,no caves have been discovered in the ,bad ,lands1 unless that name be applied to some of the geodes which are really grottoes1 they being of sufficient size for a man to stand in4 ,the ,black ,hills1 however1 contain some of the most remarkable caves ever yet discovered1 of which those of greatest importance are ,wind ,cave and the three ,onyx ,caves near ,hot ,springs1 in the southeastern part of the ,hills1 and ,crystal ,cave near ,piedmont1 in the northeast4 ,all of these occur in the ,carboniferous ,limestone which forms an outer belt around the central mass or core of the ,hills and no doubt1 as previously suggested1 owes its fissures to earthquakes which preceded or accompanied the porphyry intrusions by which in some localities its strata have been thrown into a vertical position4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,wind ,,cave4 ,wind ,cave was discovered in #ahha by a hunter named ,thomas ,bingham1 who being weary of a fruitless chase sat down to rest1 and was soon startled by the sound of rushing wind on a calm day2 and at the same time by a singular hair-raising sensation1 as his hat was lifted from his head and thrown high in the air4 ,he is said to have afterwards declared that although frightened nearly out of his wits1 he determined to find the cause of his alarm1 and on turning slightly discovered a hole about eight by twelve inches in size through which a roaring wind was issuing from the earth4 ,as his hair maintained the aggressive attitude taken1 the recovered hat could not be returned to its usual place1 so an hour was spent in laying it across the opening and watching its instant projection into upper space2 after which he set out to tell of the wonderful discovery4 ,the announcement1 however1 was not received seriously and he was assured of the impossibility of the wind blowing through a hill of solid rock1 and his brother explained to him that he had been too self-indulgent and consequently imagined the whole affair4 ,a protest of total abstinence failed to inspire confidence1 but the brother promised to go the next day to see for himself1 and did4 ,the hat was again placed over the opening as before1 but instead of taking the expected lofty flight1 it was drawn in and has never since been seen3 the current had reversed4 ,soon after this the hole was enlarged to eighteen by thirty inches and the cave entered by quite a number of venturesome persons assisted by a long rope and ample personal courage4 ,no other improvements were made1 and only a short distance was explored1 until ,mr4 ,j4,d4 ,mc,donald settled on the property in #ahij2 since which time he and his sons have explored ninety-seven miles of passage and done such extensive work in opening up small passages and placing ladders1 that it is now possible for visitors to travel long distances with surprising ease and comfort4 ,the measure of distances in the cave is not by the usual guess-work method which has established the short-measure reputation for cave miles1 but is done with a fair degree of accuracy by means of the twine used to mark the trail in exploring new passages4 ,a careful measurement of the twine has shown it to run nine balls to the mile with a close average of regularity1 so it is the custom to add another mile to the cave record as often as a ninth ball becomes exhausted4 ,wind ,cave is twelve miles north of ,hot ,springs by a good road which offers somewhat meager attractions to the artist1 but is more liberal towards the geologist1 and especially so in fine exposures of the gypsum bearing ,red ,beds of the ,triassic4 ,limited patches of it are also exposed in each of the caves1 generally carrying small quantities of selenite1 which is crystallized gypsum1 or in other words1 crystallized sulphate of lime4 ,this brilliant red color is so prominent in portions of the ,hills1 and attracts so much wondering attention in other well known regions of the ,west1 that it would seem an unpardonable neglect of opportunity should we fail to again quote ,prof4 ,todd for an explanation of the cause of the vivid coloring4 ,commencing he says3 ,newton remarks concerning this3#d ',a large percentage of peroxide of iron in the red beds1 to which they owe their bright red color1 bears an interesting relation to the absence of fossils4 ,the material of which sediments are formed is derived1 by the various processes of denudation1 from the rocks of older land surfaces4 ,whatever iron they contain is dissolved from the land and transported in a condition of protoxide and some proto salt1 such as the carbonate1 and the process is facilitated by the presence of carbonic acid in the water4 ,now iron occurs in these older rocks as protoxide and peroxide1 the former of which is soluble and the latter insoluble in water4 ,the peroxide1 however1 by the action of organic matter1 such as is held in solution in boggy waters1 may be deprived of a portion of its oxygen and converted into protoxide and thus be rendered soluble4 ,if the iron-bearing water is confined first in a shallow basin and exposed long to the action of the atmosphere the protoxide of iron absorbs the oxygen and is precipitated as an insoluble red peroxide of iron4 ,if1 however1 plant or animal life be present in sufficient quantities1 this oxidation is prevented4 ,in case but little foreign material1 clay or sand1 has been brought by the waters1 the deposit will be an iron ore4 ,in case large quantities of foreign material are deposited from the waters at the same time1 there will be produced1 in the absence of life1 a brown or red clay or sandstone1 and in its presence a white or light colored formation containing the iron as a carbonate4 ,we reason therefore from the condition in which the iron is found in the red beds1 that there could have been little or no life1 animal or vegetable1 in the water from which it was deposited4 ,the conclusion is strengthened by the fact of the large quantities of gypsum which are usually derived from the evaporation of saline waters4 ,the degree of saline concentration which the precipitation of gypsum indicates1 would be highly inimical to life4 ,the presence of gypsum helps to account for the absence of life1 and the absence of life accounts for the brilliant color4 ,the three prominent characteristics of the formation 7that is the red beds7 are therefore quite in harmony with each other4' 7,geol4 ,blk4 ,hills1 p4 #ach47 ,continuing the subject1 ,professor ,todd says3 ,accepting this explanation of the striking red color1 the question remains as to how these circumstances1 favorable for its formation1 were produced4 ,this red color is quite common in the whole ,rocky ,mountain region1 not only on the eastern slope of the mountains1 but to the various detached members of the system4 ,we must1 therefore1 look for some extensive condition4 ,if we seek some case in the present1 parallel to the one already indicated1 we perhaps can find none better than one on the eastern shore of the ,caspian ,sea1 where1 because of dry climate and the shallow waters1 the deposition of gypsum and salt is now going on4 ,in the gulf known as the ,kara ,boghaz1 which is separated from the ,caspian by a narrow strait1 the evaporation is so rapid as to produce an almost constant flow from the sea into it4 ,this strait and this gulf give the impression to an unlearned observer that there must be a mysterious subterranean outlet4 ,the water flows in1 carrying with it the salt and other soluble minerals4 ,it then evaporates1 leaving the salt and minerals behind4 ,this explanation is calculated to afford particular pleasure to the many visitors to the ,garden of the ,gods1 in ,colorado1 who seldom receive satisfactory answers to their questions as to the reasons why4 ,in that much visited spot1 however1 the great mass of the deposit has been removed by erosion and the curiously shaped remnants are only such portions as were exceptionally hard and consequently withstood the action of the submerging waters4 ,having made a considerable stop on the way to ,wind ,cave1 we will now hurry on1 but with good horses and a fine day the drive is one of great pleasure4 ,the road gradually rises to higher ground and soon reaches a point six hundred feet more elevated than ,hot ,springs1 with a charming view of hill and valley distances1 and the way then continues over the hill-tops4 ,at one point by the roadside a circle of tent-stones still marks the spot occupied by ,sitting ,bull for a week or more after the ,custer massacre1 while he camped here and in the security of his commanding position watched the movements of the government troops who were in search of him4 ,hot ,springs and ,buffalo ,gap are both included in the wide-spread view4 ,beside the road and scattered about in all directions are fine specimens of agates and quartz crystal which seem most beautiful and most abundant on the hills in the immediate vicinity of the cave1 the crystals being either rose pink1 pale green1 yellow1 white or colorless4 ,arriving at the cave1 the entrance is not visible1 but between the ravine in which it is located and the road1 there is the cave office and small hotel1 on the ravine side of which an outer stairway leads down to the cave entrance1 over which has been built a log cabin4 ,on account of the precautions taken for the protection of visitors1 accidents are so rare that it might almost be said that none occur4 ,every person is required to register before entering the cave and all returning parties are carefully counted1 although they are usually unaware of the fact4 ,they are always accompanied by two guides and others are added if the party is large4 ,no one is1 on any account1 permitted to wander in advance of the head guide or linger behind the one in the rear4 ,within the cabin the immediate entrance to the cave is securely closed1 and in order that the door may not be forced from its fastenings by the roaring wind which shakes it threateningly1 it opens in1 instead of out4 ,this wind suggested the name ,wind ,cave1 and will probably be utilized1 at no very distant time1 to generate electricity for lighting the cavern4 ,the wind is strongest at the surface1 and a guide goes down first to place lights in sheltered nooks where the force has begun to diminish1 about fifty feet below the entrance2 and here we light our candles which1 if guarded somewhat1 are not extinguished unless the current is unusually severe4 ,the balance of the descent of one hundred and fifty-five feet from the surface to the first chamber is easily accomplished4 ,this would be the least interesting room in the cave if it were not the ,bride's ,chamber1 on account of having once been the scene of a marriage ceremony4 ,but no others are in need of assistance of such romantic nature1 as all are curiously and handsomely decorated1 with such a charming variety of deposits1 artistically massed1 combined or contrasted1 that every step brings fresh pleasure1 and monotony is nowhere4 ,passing from this room by a long1 narrow passage1 in the walls of which are observed many beautiful little pockets of crystals1 attention is presently called to ,lincoln's ,fireplace1 a perfectly natural specimen of the old-fashioned design broadly open in the chimney2 doubtless just such an one as ,mr4 ,lincoln's good mother hung the crane in and set the ,dutch oven before4 ,a little beyond and on the opposite side of the crevice is ,prairie-dog town1 not a very extensive town1 to be sure1 but so true a copy that one unfamiliar with the small animal and his style of architecture would afterwards easily recognize both4 ,at one time his dogship was carried away by a too eager collector1 but a letter to the suspected visitor brought him home by the next freight4 ,the ,dutch ,clock occupies a position on a shelf near by1 and all southern visitors greet the ,alligator as a familiar friend1 as all of us joyfully meet any acquaintance from home4 ,a long narrow passage1 formerly a tight crawl1 but later opened up by heavy blasting1 must be traversed before we come to the ,snow ,ball ,room1 beautiful with round spots of untinted carbonate of lime1 as if fresh soft snow had been thrown by the handful over walls and ceilings1 with the additional ornamentation of calcite crystals4 ,in the crevice beyond rises the ,church ,steeple1 diminishing regularly1 though roughly1 in size1 to a height of sixty feet1 but not degraded with the little squirming stairway usually seen in ,church spires4 ,the next room is the ,post ,office1 in which we are for the first time introduced to the greatest peculiarity and most abundant formation known to the cave4 ,being a newly discovered addition to geology it has no scientific name and therefore is simply called box work1 because it resembles boxes of many shapes and sizes4 ,the formation of the box work is generally regarded as an unexplained and unexplainable mystery1 but a careful study of various portions of the cave shows it in all stages of development and suggests a reasonable theory as to the cause of its origin and variety of development4 ,the volcanic disturbances which have already been discussed as having been responsible for the various uplifts and depressions of the ,black ,hills region1 and also for opening the fissures which gave the cave a beginning1 must have supplied the conditions that were necessary to the formation of box work4 ,and these preliminary conditions were merely cracks in the rock4 ,by the violence of earth movement the limestone has been crushed1 probably when the land was undergoing depression1 prior to the upheaval which opened the great parallel fissures4 ,the varying hardness of the rock1 as well as proximity to the surface1 would readily account for the difference in size of the fractures1 which is from one-half inch to twelve inches2 the largest being the most distant from the surface4 ,that this crushing was done before the salt waters retired from the region1 which was towards the close of the ,cretaceous ,age1 is sufficiently evident in the fact that portions of the ,red ,beds show similar fractures with the cracks filled with gypsum1 and gypsum1 as we have already seen1 is a salt water deposit4 ,after the crushing was done the cracks in the ,carboniferous ,limestone were filled with water heavily charged with calcium carbonate1 taken in solution from the rock1 first from pulverized particles1 and afterwards by percolation and contact with exposed surfaces4 ,this calcium carbonate was slowly deposited in crystalline form1 so that in time the cracks were filled and the crushed rock firmly cemented with calcite seams4 ,but in the meantime the removal of the calcium carbonate had started disintegration of the more exposed portions of the rock1 which steadily continuing1 finally reduced the porous body between the crystal seams to a soft clay which was gradually dissolved and carried out through small imperfections in the thin crystal sheets1 leaving the empty box work as we find it4 ,but where blasting has exposed fresh surfaces1 much of the solid limestone carries the box-like sheets of crystal4 ,the thinnest box work is seen in the upper levels1 from which the waters retired soonest1 and the heaviest and most beautiful is in the ,blue ,grotto1 on the eighth level where the water remained longest and its diminished volume became most heavily charged4 ,in many places1 however1 there is another heavy variety known as pop-corn box work1 which seems to be an impure lime carbonate not so finely crystallized as the other1 but at the time of my visit no explanation had been given of the manner of its deposit2 and my own theory that it was not formed under water had nothing to sustain it until1 a few weeks later1 while visiting ,crystal ,cave1 the work was found in active progress on surfaces occupying every position1 and the agent was dripping water4 ,in all cases the original box work has been in thin sheets of calcite1 and the heavy varieties are due to later deposits of calcite and aragonite crystals or1 pop corn4 ,the colors are white1 yellow1 blue and chocolate brown2 the last named predominating to a great extent in that portion of the cave most easily traveled by visitors1 and forming the ceiling and a part of one wall in the ,post ,office1 where1 as has been said before1 it first appears4 ,the effect is not dreary as might be imagined1 and parties are generally photographed here because one side of the room is white and greatly assists the flash4 ,this is a smooth1 perpendicular wall marking the line of the fissure and showing the strata of the rock in horizontal position whitened with a thin coating of carbonate of lime4 ,all visitors are cordially invited to please themselves in leaving cards1 letters or papers in this chamber1 which is reserved for that purpose1 and to refrain from leaving them in other portions of the cave or defacing the walls with names4 ,roe's ,misery is a long1 narrow passage into which1 during the early times before its size had been increased by blasting1 a large man named ,roe crawled to his sorrow4 ,being larger than the hole he stuck fast1 and neither his own efforts nor those of the guides could relieve the situation until a rope was sent for1 and having been brought1 was securely fastened to his feet1 when a long pull and a strong one finally opened the passage4 ,it is told that he claimed to have reviewed all the objectionable acts of his life1 by which his friends understood that he occupied the motionless position not less than three weeks4 ,red ,hall is very nearly described by its name and is quite a showy room1 with the bright red walls contrasting sharply with their limited ornamentation of pure white carbonate of lime and pearly crystals of calcite4 ,off to one side of ,red ,hall is a beautiful little chamber called ,old ,maids' ,grotto1 probably on account of its trim appearance and ideal location4 ,it is so entirely concealed from the view of those passing on the public highway1 that its existence is not even suspected1 until special attention is called to its cosiness1 and then it is necessary to mount an accumulation of great water-rounded rocks in order to obtain convincing evidence of its actual reality4 ,it is a long1 narrow room1 shut in by a straight wall sufficiently high for rigid seclusion1 or protection1 without preventing a glimpse of passing events4 ,a break in the description is made here for the purpose of inserting a description1 written at the author's request1 by ,mr4 ,e4,l4 ,mc,donald4 ,he was generally our special guide4 ,he has chosen to describe the route taken by the majority of visitors and therefore the balance of my observations within those limits are omitted4 ,all who are familiar with those passages and chambers will observe while reading the next chapter that no imaginary attractions are added to the existing facts1 but many interesting minor points are missing4 ,only such changes are made as were agreed to as the condition on which he would attempt a piece of work so at variance with his usual occupations4 ,,footnotes3 #d ,u4,s4 ,geological ,survey4 ,geology of the ,black ,hills4 ,henry ,newton1 p4 #ach4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,wind ,,cave ,,continued4 ,,the ,,fair ,,grounds ,,route4 ,at #i3cj in the morning the train bringing health-seekers and tourists arrives at ,hot ,springs1 a beautiful little city nestled in the southernmost foot-hills of the world-reputed ,black ,hills of ,south ,dakota4 ,the choice of a hotel is soon made1 and when located1 the new-comers observe the other guests and acquaint themselves with the attractions of the resort4 ,probably during the day they are approached by the solicitor of the wonderful ,wind ,cave1 who explains that the best way to reach the cave is by means of the coach and four seen at the hotel in the morning1 and arrangements are made for the following day4 ,the next morning1 seated in the tally-ho coach with strangers who are soon acquaintances1 you start on a beautiful twelve-mile drive to one of nature's most interesting sights4 ,immediately after leaving town you begin to admire the scenery and enjoy the cool1 refreshing breezes1 wafted from the mountains to the north1 down the slopes to the arid plains4 ,after climbing a gently sloping 'hog-back' for about eight miles1 you are at the top of the divide and one thousand feet higher than ,hot ,springs1 which may be seen on the left4 ,looking ahead you can see ,harney ,peak1 the highest mountain in the ,black ,hills district2 and on the right you see ,buffalo ,gap1 through which the creek runs that heads at ,min-ne-pa-juta ,springs4 ,the ,indians used to drive buffalo through this gap1 hence its name4 ,a small but thriving little town to the eastward takes its name from this ,buffalo ,gap4 ,from here you begin to go down a gentle and winding incline to the cave1 which is reached all too soon4 ,at the office you register and procure tickets1 and then have from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in which to eat lunch or dine at the hotel4 ,then all congregate in the office1 from whence the start is made1 after every one has put on a cave cap1 not a suit1 as such is entirely unnecessary4 ,the guide leads the way to the entrance of the cave which is separated from the office by some little distance1 and is located in the bed of a long since dry run1 which in former times has bared the carboniferous strata1 and within this kind of rock the cave is found4 ,as the author has asked me for an article descriptive of the cave1 ,i will only attempt to say something of our medium length route to the ,fair ,grounds1 or in other words1 the ,fair ,grounds' ,route4 ,a collective description of the whole cave would take months--even years--to complete4 ,besides1 the above route is the one most used by visitors at the present time4 ,on entering the ,cave ,house 7a log structure7 you will in all probability ask from whence comes the murmur of a waterfall4 ,the guide answers that it is the rushing current of air at the mouth of the cave1 sometimes in and sometimes out4 ,prof4 ,j4,e4 ,todd1 in bulletin ,no4 #a1 ,s4 ,dakota ,geological ,survey1 p4 #dh1 says3 ',this phenomenon is found to correspond with the varying pressure of the barometer1 and with its single opening and capacious chambers is easily accounted for4' ,the rushing air is sometimes strong enough to require a man's weight to open the entrance door4 ,five days and nights is the longest time the wind has been known to move in one direction without ceasing4 ,this is one of nature's greatest atmospherical phenomena4 ,some one says1 ',tickets1 please6' and into the hole we go1 single file down a lighted passageway to where we can light our candles4 ,after descending about one hundred and fifty-five feet we come into the ,bridal ,chamber 7named by some of the earlier explorers before the present management took hold of the property71 which is eight or ten feet in length by twenty feet in breadth4 ,passing along some distance1 the ,snow-ball ,room is entered4 ,it carries this name on account of little rosettes of carbonate of lime sticking to the irregular ceiling4 ,this room is pretty narrow and some fifty feet in length4 ,the ,post ,office is next and soon reached4 ,the ceiling is covered with the box work formation somewhat resembling ,post ,office boxes4 ,you will no doubt wonder why it carries such a common name4 ,just because after searching in what books on geology and other sciences we could get1 we could not find it described nor any formation resembling it2 hence its common name1 as we have named the pop-corn work1 frost work etc41 from their appearance4 ,the dimensions of the ,post ,office are some eighty feet in length by twenty feet in width1 with an average ceiling height of probably twelve feet4 ,red ,hall is the room next in order1 and has on either side a red bank of sandy1 micaceous clay4 ,just to the left is a very pretty little grotto of box work4 ,this room is very odd in make-up4 ,the floor is very rough and dips about fifteen feet in its length of sixty feet1 and includes a short flight of stairs4 ,the lowest end of the room is prettily decorated1 and some pleasing blends of color attract the eye4 ,to the left is the ,old ,maids' ,grotto1 a pretty little nook that would please any maid old or young4 ,after passing through the ,white ,room we turn to the left along the crevice1 and after traveling some little distance reach ,the ,grand ,opera1 a very narrow room but some forty feet in length4 ,chopin's ,nocturne is a small grotto in the right hand wall named by the famous violinist1 ,edouard ,remenji4 ,the ,devil's ,lookout is reached by a few steps4 ,it is a crevice about ten feet wide at the base and sixty-five feet in height4 ,this place is remarkable for its columns of rock just over head4 ,the pathway leads to ,milton's ,study1 some fifty feet distant4 ,turning into the crevice again1 some twenty feet are traveled when attention is called to ,seal ,rocks4 ,sampson's ,palace is the next room in order3 here we see some stalagmitic water formation on the left wall and the ceiling is one of the most beautiful yet seen on the trip4 ,we pass along to ,swiss ,scenery1 a very prettily decorated room fifty feet in length by fifteen in height4 ,the box work is very pretty1 shading from yellow to dark brown4 ,the general appearance of the room would suggest its name1 it being rougher than any other in the immediate vicinity4 ,passing under an arch we enter the ,queen's ,drawing-room4 ,here the box work has been developed beyond any on our pathway thus far4 ,from the ceiling it hangs like draperies and on the left wall is about twenty-four inches in depth4 ,on the whole this room is elegant enough for the most exacting queen4 ,we step from this room into the ,m4,e4 ,church4 ,rev4 ,mr4 ,hancher1 ,president of the ,black ,hills ,methodist ,college1 was ,i believe the first to hold song and prayer service in this room2 the pulpit is on the left as you pass through4 ,the guides always ask if any wish to sing or worship1 as any one has a perfect right in a dedicated ,chapel4 ,the ,giant's ,causeway is only a few steps beyond4 ,this bit of scenery has some resemblance to the famed basalt attraction on the coast of ,ireland4 ,we 'duck' our heads under the ,arch of ,politeness and rise to a standing position in ,lena's ,arbor1 a very irregular shaped room admired by a great many of our visitors4 ,we enter ,capitol ,hall at the side1 about midway between the ends4 ,it is the largest room yet visited1 being some two hundred feet from end to end1 with a very high ceiling4 ,here we notice the walls and ceiling are bare of box work and other formation1 and are clean and white4 ,the decorative appearance exceeds any room yet visited4 ,after getting into line again we go down a flight of stairs to ,odd ,fellows' ,hall1 a chamber that on examination suggests its name4 ,in the ceiling is situated the ',all seeing eye1' one of the emblems of that august body1 and at a little distance the ',three links2' also in the ceiling1 and just under the latter is situated a rock very much resembling a goat4 ,attention is called to the first appearance of pop-corn work1 a very peculiar formation resembling pop-corn after it has broken open1 and in this part of the cave it is quite plentiful4 ,we now descend another flight of stairs into ,turtle ,pass1 where a large turtle rests beside the path1 and just beyond is the ,confederate ,cross-roads1 where the fissure is crossed by another forming a cross with perfect right angles4 ,the right hand passage is used for specimens only2 straight ahead leads to the ,garden of ,eden1 the end of our shortest route2 we take the left hand path and journey through ,summer ,avenue1 some seventy feet in length1 and reach the ,scenes of ,wiclow1 a large and high room1 beautifully decorated with box work and pop-corn4 ,the ceiling and the left wall from floor to ceiling are fine box work4 ,on the right you see dark space1 as a very large portion of this room is unused1 but we pass the ,piper's ,pig4 ,list6 ,the guide is pounding on the ,salvation ,army ,drum1 a large projecting rock that on being struck with the closed hand gives a sound very much like a bass drum4 ,after walking across a short plank we enter ,kimball's ,music ,hall1 a very beautiful room settled between two crevices and lined with box work4 ,viewing the ceiling from the fissure on the right it is seen to be smooth and fringed with pop-corn4 ,in some places the boxes are closed1 resembling finished honey-comb4 ,over head box work can be seen as high as the light penetrates4 ,on the whole1 ,i think this is the finest crevice in the explored cave4 ,looking straight ahead you wonder how the party can travel over such a road as presents itself to view1 but the guide turns into an arch in the right hand wall and enters ,whitney ,avenue4 ,after walking across the bridge over shadowy depths1 our pathway lies for some fifty feet in one of the most interesting ovens in the cave1 at the end of which we enter ,monte ,cristo's ,palace by going down a flight of stairs4 ,this room has the greatest depth beneath the surface of any of the ,fair ,grounds' ,route1 which is four hundred and fifty feet4 ,in this room is noticed a decided change in the box work1 which is much heavier than any seen1 or that will be seen on this route1 and the color is light blue4 ,i guess ,i will give the party a talk while we rest under ,monte ,cristo's ,diamonds1 a very sparkling cluster1 about six inches in diameter1 of silica crystals4 ,after studying the cave1 it appears that it did not form in the same manner as most others2 on account of the absence of sink holes1 the regular arrangement of the chambers1 the regular dip of the rock to the south-east from five to ten degrees1 and the regularity of the long vertical fissures running north-west south-east4 ,in fact1 the whole cave is made up of these fissures and it seems that the water has entered narrow crevices opened by some eruptive force4 ,you see small holes eaten in the ceilings and walls in every direction1 which indicates that the water came from a higher level1 and being under great pressure1 wanted passage out4 ,it seems the cave was a reservoir for a long time1 then after the water stopped flowing in it slowly receded1 and in settling the overcharged waters covered the rocks and specimens with a calcareous coating1 very thin in the upper portions of the cave and getting thicker the deeper you go1 giving evidence as you see1 of slowly settling4 ,had the waters rushed out they would in all probability have left the rocks uncoated as in all other caves1 with one exception1 the ,crystal ,cave1 some seventy-five miles to the north of ,wind ,cave4 ,as we have some more caves to see we must journey on4 ,taking one last look at ,monte ,cristo's ,diamonds we pass into ,milliner's ,avenue1 a very pretty avenue indeed with nearly as many colors as a milliner's show-window would present4 ,about mid-way of this avenue we cross the bridge over ,castle ,garden1 a room in the eighth tier beneath the surface4 ,from this avenue we step into the ,assembly ,room4 ,here the formations are covered with a gypsum crystal that sparkles with wonderful brilliancy4 ,on the right is a passage leading to the ,masonic ,temple1 a room that any body of ,masons would be proud of could they hold lodge meetings in it4 ,the passage on the left is the terminus of the ,pearly ,gates' ,route1 the longest developed route in the cave4 ,after moving along some distance we see the ,bad ,lands1 and then come into the ,tennis ,court4 ,this room has the net in the ceiling and ,i suppose the party can furnish the raquet 7racket74 ,on the right hand side of this room there is tier upon tier of box work2 looking to the left1 you shudder at the almost bottomless pit just beside the pathway4 ,here we take a rest preparatory to climbing up to the ,marble ,quarry1 a task of two flights of stairs4 ,this is a very large room and has the most uneven floor1 ceiling and walls of any that our visitors see1 and is barren of specimens excepting in the first part over the stairs where there is some box work of very pretty structure and color4 ,some distance up the path we see on one side the ,ghost of ',she1' and on the other the ,devil's ,punch ,bowl1 a large rock with a basin-shaped hole about thirty-six inches across and sixteen inches deep1 but lo6 the bottom has been broken out3 which is very appropriate as ,south ,dakota is at present a prohibition state4 ,a winding path is followed until attention is called to the ,sheep's ,head above an arch over the passage1 and the ceiling here is of flint1 the ledge of which is four inches thick4 ,passing under the arch we enter ,johnstone's ,camp ,ground1 so named because ,paul ,alexander ,johnstone camped in this room while accomplishing the third of his greatest mind-reading feats1 during which he remained in the cave seventy-two hours4 ,he was locked in his room at the ,evans ,hotel while a committee secreted the head of a gold pin in the cave4 ,on their return1 after being blindfolded1 he led them to the livery stable1 and securing a team drove to the cave and found the pin in the ,standing ,rock ,chamber1 beyond the ,pearly ,gates1 and then drove back to the city still blindfolded4 ,down one short flight of stairs and we are in the ,waiting ,room1 so called on account of persons waiting here while the rest of their party finished the trip by climbing up the ,alpine ,way4 ,this difficult climb was made until the route was developed via the ,marble ,quarry4 ,a steep pathway and one flight of stairs now bring us to the ,ticket ,office1 and another short stairway leads into the room above1 which is the ,fair ,grounds4 ,we enter the right wing1 which measures two hundred and six links in length and forty-nine in width at the narrowest place4 ,we are now in the third level and no box work is seen1 but the ceiling 7which is low7 shows many interesting fossils4 ,the central dome is some fifty feet in height1 and passing to the right the guide seats the party in such a position that the frost work on the wall can be seen to advantage4 ,this is the largest part of the ,fair ,grounds and measures six hundred and forty-five links long1 exclusive of the right wing1 and has a width of fifty-three links1 which with a number of wings added1 makes it one of the largest under-ground rooms within ,american caverns4 ,a great many visitors look at their cuff-buttons when told we have twenty-five hundred rooms included in ninety-seven miles of passageways4 ,of course they do not understand how we get the mileage4 ,in going to the ,fair ,grounds we travel about three miles4 ,in each fissure there are eight levels1 which makes twenty-four miles of cave from the entrance to the ,fair ,grounds4 ,of the formations in the cave1 the different kinds are on different levels1 the stalactites and stalagmites nearest the surface on the second1 the frost work on the third4 ,this formation is in most instances as colorless as snow4 ,the mode of its formation is not thoroughly understood1 but is found in such positions as suggest its being formed by vapors overcharged as spoken of about the water4 ,it is almost always on an over-hanging rock1 over or near some fissure leading to a deeper portion of the cave4 ,box work in this level is scattering and fragile3 in the fourth it is the prevailing formation3 in the fifth it is heavier and a little darker2 in the sixth it varies in style and color1 and pop-corn appears1 a queer formation resembling pop-corn ready to eat4 ,it is not so purely white here as in the lower levels1 seventh and eighth4 ,in the seventh the box work is heavier than any seen on the ,fair ,grounds' ,route and the color is nearly blue1 having a faded appearance4 ,in this tier is also found a good deal of mineral wool1 which must not be mistaken for asbestos4 ,it sometimes attains a length of eighteen inches and at one place where it seems to come out of a hole two inches in diameter1 and drops down like a grey beard1 we have named it ,noah's ,beard4 ,in the eighth tier we find very beautiful formations of carbonate of lime1 and the box work is decidedly blue1 the boxes larger1 and their partitions one half inch thick4 ,we have been deeper than the eighth tier but in narrow crevices barely admitting a man of average stature4 ,in these the calcareous coating is much thicker than in any higher portions of the cave1 but very little sign of box work is seen4 ,sometimes we make a comparison between the cave and a sponge4 ,take for instance a sponge as large as an apple barrel and there would be holes in it as big as a man's thumb and closed hand4 ,now take a sponge1 four miles square and five hundred feet deep with holes in proportion to the little sponge1 and you have an illustration of ,the ,wonderful ,wind ,cave1 of ,custer ,county1 ,south ,dakota4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,wind ,,cave ,,continued4 ,,pearly ,,gates ,,and ,,blue ,,grotto ,,route4 ,a very much longer1 more beautiful1 and also more difficult journey than the one just described may be taken by those in whom the desire to see is greater than the fear of fatigue1 or possibly1 some little danger4 ,with this object in view the ,fair ,grounds' ,route is followed through ,monte ,cristo's ,palace and into ,milliner's ,avenue4 ,here we leave it by dropping off the bridge into a rough hole1 which proves to be a passage descending into ,castle ,garden directly beneath the ,avenue1 and a room of considerable size1 plentifully supplied with bowlders4 ,although interesting to visit1 it has no points of such special merit as would seem to require a detailed account1 the main importance attaching to it being the fact that it is the first portion of the eighth level visited4 ,a little beyond1 however1 is something quite new4 ,the floor is covered with a light yellow crust of calcite crystal1 sufficiently strong to bear the weight of a limited number of guests without much fracture4 ,it generally gives a hollow sound when struck1 which is easily accounted for as there are small holes noticed by which steam evidently made its escape1 and through these cavities can be seen but they are shallow4 ,one place shows the crust broken up and with the edges of the pieces overlapped1 like ice broken by a sudden rise of back-water1 and in this position they have been firmly cemented4 ,this is where the slowly receding waters of the cave lingered in shallow pools above the small crevices long after the main portions had become dry4 ,that the crust was formed on top of the water1 instead of beneath its surface1 has been proved by the only body of water now standing in the cave4 ,this is called ,silent ,lake1 and being situated on another route will be described in its proper place1 but when discovered no water was visible nor its presence even suspected until the crust gave way under the weight of an explorer4 ,the thin sheet of yellow calcite crystal thus broken was the same as that seen in great abundance in the now perfectly dry eighth level4 ,the gradually decreasing volume of water has left a smooth yellow coat on portions of the walls where irregularities or slopes were favorable1 and at least one such place is vividly remembered if once seen4 ,a steep incline of about fifteen feet leads to a small oval hole through the wall2 towards this we crawled with no great ease2 but getting to the hole was far easier than going through it into a tiny cubby not high enough to sit comfortably upright in1 and too small to permit an average sized human being to turn around4 ,close on the left it is shut in by another wall pierced by two holes similar to that just passed1 and each revealing a miniature chamber scarcely more than three feet in either direction and eighteen inches high4 ,being directed to examine the ceiling of the first1 it was done with some difficulty and much satisfaction1 for there in the center was a most exquisite bit of art work1 a circular disk of drusy quartz about twelve inches in diameter and having the appearance of a flat rosette of fine black lace1 in open pattern with small diamonds thickly strung on every thread2 a brilliant1 sparkling mass of gems4 ,after ,mr4 ,mc,donald had carefully removed a geode from the other little chamber1 he slid down into a fourth1 the last of the diminutive suite1 having sufficient height to allow a sitting posture with raised head1 and opened the small jewel case1 while ,i examined the place it came from4 ,here all was calcite crystal heavily massed in various forms1 and a harmony of blue and brown1 with half a dozen round1 unbroken1 perfect geodes hanging from the ceiling like oriole nests4 ,the geode taken proved on opening to be especially fine1 being filled with pearly white calcite crystals of both the dog-tooth and nail-head forms1 and was kindly presented to be added to the collection of cave specimens already purchased in town1 to which were also added handsome pieces of drusy quartz1 cave coral1 and tufa and mineral wool4 ,following the guide ,i now slipped down into the larger nook just vacated1 and saw with considerable chagrin that the next step was down a perpendicular wall more than ten feet in height1 facing a high1 narrow fissure1 the floor of which was merely two shelves sloping to an open space along the middle1 almost two feet wide1 with the darkness of continuing crevice below4 ,further progress seemed absolutely impossible4 ,all things are1 however1 possible to those who will1 and it had been willed to pay a visit to the grandest portion of ,wind ,cave4 ,in order to do so the descent must be made and was4 ,then some little distance must be traveled along the crevice1 but the angle of elevation taken by both sides of the bisected floor served as a sort of prohibitory tax together with the calcite paving1 since to maintain an upright position on such a surface would require long training of a certain professional character4 ,that difficulty1 too1 was overcome by placing a foot on either side of the open crevice2 the first consideration1 of course1 being safety and not grace4 ,we now came to the enjoyment of the reward of merit4 ,flooded with the brilliant white light of magnesium ribbon1 the crevice walls could be seen drawing together at a height of sixty-five feet1 and both composed entirely of larger box work than any seen before and very heavily covered with calcite crystal1 colored a bright electric blue and glowing with a pearly lustre4 ,this is the ,centennial ,gallery1 and leaving it with reluctance we passed on into the ,blue ,grotto to find it finer still4 ,it is somewhat wider and higher1 while even the extremely rough1 uneven floor shows no spot bare of heavy box work of a yet deeper blue4 ,the wonderful beauty of this ,blue ,grotto necessarily stands beyond comparison because in all the known world there is nothing like it4 ,the forms of crystal are chiefly aragonite4 ,from here we pass to the ,chamber de ,norcutt1 which would be considered a very handsome room if it had no superiors3 and the same can be said of ,union ,college1 in which1 however1 is the ,fan ,rock to claim special notice2 an immense piece of fallen box work shaped like a lady's fan half opened4 ,an imposing vestibule leads into the extensive but rather dreary ,catacombs1 from which we crawled through a little hole into the ,m4,w4,a4 ,hall1 emerging at the top of a steep but not high slope covered with the smooth yellow crust of calcite encountered at other places1 and in trying to make a dexterous turn so as to go down feet first1 the descent was accomplished with uncalculated suddenness and an unsought but liberal collection of bruises4 ,this1 however1 was not a happening of the unexpected and could have no attention amid scenes of wonder and beauty1 and we were close to the ,geysers4 ,from a scientific point of view this is the most important portion of the cave1 for here is an indisputable proof that the water in the cave was hot and that it was subject to geyser action4 ,the surrounding region is covered with the crust already described1 and at the top of a gentle elevation is thrown up in the unmistakable form of geyser cones2 there being two near together on the surface described1 with a third visible through one of these on a slightly lower level1 this one being a new discovery1 as it had escaped observation until we called attention to it4 ,these small cones show that after the degree of heat and the volume of water had become reduced to the merest fraction of their former greatness1 they continued their accustomed work here in the depth of the earth long after the once grand old geyser had ceased to show an outward sign of life4 ,when the water finally became so reduced even here that the steam could no longer force it through1 or to these latest vents1 the last rising vapors fringed their edges with a beautiful snow-white border of crystallized carbonate of lime as fine and soft as a band of swan's down1 which it resembles4 ,in the pure1 still atmosphere of the eighth level1 almost five hundred feet beneath the entrance1 this silent proof of ancient action will endure for the admiration and instruction of many generations yet to come4 ,few mortals will ever be honored with memorials so lasting or so convincing of vanished power4 ,proceeding on the journey the next chamber is the ,a4,o4,u4,w4 ,hall1 a large1 irregular room1 by the rise of which a return to the seventh level is accomplished2 and the next entered is the ,tabernacle1 not at all resembling the last1 although a similar description would be correct4 ,now is reached what many consider the cave's greatest charm1 ,the ,pearly ,gates4 ,and marvelously beautiful it certainly is4 ,approaching by a slightly lower level1 we see a gateway opening between large rocks that light up with the soft lustre and varied tints of mammoth pearls4 ,a wonderful effect is produced by the white calcite crystal spread in unequal thickness over the dark surface of the encrusted rocks4 ,just without the gate is a short but not golden stairway leading to it1 and immediately within is the ,saint's ,rest1 a chamber of moderate size beautified by another great rock on which are combined the warm1 pearly glow of calcite and the cold glitter of frost by the later addition of lime carbonate vapor-crystals to the calcium carbonate aragonite4 ,next beyond is the chamber containing the ,standing ,rock behind which ,mr4 ,johnstone made his famous discovery of the concealed pin-head4 ,it is an immense great fallen rock on whose dark surface are scattered transparent flake-like crystals of satin spar1 resembling the congealed drops of a summer shower4 ,the mind-reader entered the chamber by the way we shall leave it4 ,returning to the spot from which the ,pearly ,gates were first viewed1 we stand facing the most beautiful of this imposing group of brilliant scenes1 ,the ,mermaid's ,resort4 ,this is a small cove with wave marks in the white beach sand1 above which rises a projecting1 sheltering cliff as purely white as freshly fallen snow1 with a fine deposit of frost work in thick moss-like patterns two and three inches deep4 ,this crystalline mass1 so white and fragile1 has to perfection the appearance of hoar-frost about a steam-vent in extremely cold weather1 and was1 no doubt1 formed in a somewhat similar manner4 ,it is crystallized carbonate of lime1 and could have been deposited in such extremely delicate forms only by the heavily charged vapors rising from hot water4 ,no one needs to be told that hot water will take and hold in solution a much larger quantity of solid matter than is possible to cold water1 with all other conditions the same2 nor is it news that a portion of the solid substance is carried off in the rising steam4 ,now the geyser cones1 so recently visited on the next lower level1 prove both the heat of the water and its heavy charge of solids1 which gave it a far more intense heat than pure water could have equaled1 and this in turn drove the steam to greater distances than otherwise it would have reached4 ,when cooled to such a point as to be reduced to a light vapor1 its movement was checked by various walls1 projections1 and ceiling as were in its upward path1 and these received the minute particles of burden1 while the somewhat brisk motion of the atmosphere1 occasioned at these points by the mixing of that of higher temperature from below with the lower from above1 is responsible for the dainty and varied forms assumed by the fragile structure4 ,once more resuming the journey1 we admire the rugged charms of ,university ,heights1 a somewhat larger and higher room than the next1 ,st4 ,dominic's ,chamber1 but perhaps not more interesting than the ,council ,chamber1 which besides other attractions is to some extent also a ,statuary ,hall4 ,from the ,council ,chamber the ,alpine ,way leads up into the ,fair ,grounds directly above4 ,this ,alpine ,way is a sort of cork-screw twisting through the rocks1 not unlike a badly walled well1 assisted at the lowest portion by a short and nearly perpendicular ladder4 ,next is the ,assembly ,room1 or ,crown ,chamber1 as it is also called on account of a handsome crown conspicuously placed4 ,this room also contains a ,moose so perfectly carved that the skeptic who searches diligently for imperfections finally clamors for the whole company to celebrate his discovery of the artist's noble skill4 ,leaving this room we re-enter ,milliner's ,avenue and soon cross the bridge from which1 a few hours ago1 we descended into the eighth level by way of ,castle ,garden2 and now the return to the surface is by the route followed before1 and we arrive there at last terribly weary1 but more than well pleased4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,wind ,,cave ,,concluded4 ,,garden ,,of ,,eden1 ,,the ,,glacier1 ,,and ,,ice ,,palace4 ,there is yet another long and charming line of travel open to those who have sufficiently steady heads and light feet to suffer no loss of confidence or depression of spirit when mounting the steep stairway whose limit seems lost in the dark distance above4 ,there being but the single entrance1 a repetition of the worn and ancient statement that all roads lead to ,rome1 means that many journeys may be taken in ,wind ,cave1 but all must have the same beginning4 ,in the tourist season the guides have not time during the day to bring out specimens to supply the demand1 so on this account night trips are of frequent occurrence2 and on these occasions the number of persons in all that vast space seldom exceeds half a dozen1 but their voices and laughter1 and the blows of their hammers1 can be heard at greater distances than would seem possible1 and give an agreeable sense of companionship2 yet the voice does not travel by any means so far as in other caves4 ,the evening we were to make the long trip just mentioned1 our guide being ready before any others had gone in1 we started the advance on the ninety-seven miles of enclosed1 unoccupied space and had almost reached the level of the ,bridal ,chamber when he remembered a forgotten and necessary roll of magnesium ribbon1 for which it was needful to return to the office in the upper building4 ,i sat down on the lowest step of the great stairway to wait1 and for a very short time was entirely alone in the largest cavern in the world1 excepting the ,mammoth ,cave of ,kentucky4 ,the unexpected experience seemed suddenly to become one of the great events of a lifetime1 and was unmarred by the disturbing apprehensions of any possible danger4 ,the entire absence of sound was indescribably awe-inspiring as ,strata overleaping strata from the center to the crust1 ,rose1 ,alp-high1 in molten silence1 as the dead rise from the dust2 but the feeling of complete isolation from the living world would not require an unlimited time to merit the one word--horrible4 ,even some peril with ample companionship would be more agreeable1 while it is a curious fact that the combination of companionship with silence is charming4 ,on the occasion of one visit to the cave it was painful to observe the actual suffering of a lover of quiet1 from the good-natured1 but heedless1 chatter of two of the party4 ,presently steps on the stairs broke the stillness1 a glimmer of light pierced the intense darkness that surrounded the circle of one candle1 and the upper world seemed not so far away4 ,the interrupted journey was resumed1 the route being that already described as far as the ,confederate ,cross ,roads1 where1 this time1 we go straight on in the main fissure instead of turning into the cross-crevice1 as was done before4 ,we were overtaken by the specimen party and recognized the three laughing young girls only by their voices1 as in full suits of overalls and white duck caps1 they looked like boys4 ,those who reside near the large caves have overcome their objection to this costume1 as it gives much greater freedom and ease of movement1 besides being a decided economy4 ,feminine garments are so easily destroyed1 but for artistic effect the substitute cannot conscientiously be recommended4 ,beyond the ,cross ,roads the first chamber is ,breckinridge ,gallery1 a long1 rambling hall in which are combined the attractions already passed and those yet to come1 but having no striking feature predominating to give special character other than the grandeur of extreme roughness1 which is also the quality most observed on passing into the ,stone ,quarry1 where great accumulations of blocks seem waiting preparation for shipment4 ,the next open country is protected from public trespass by the ,garden ,wall1 which appears to have been well built in the long ago by masons properly trained in their craft1 and extends1 at a uniform height1 to the ,fallen ,flats1 where the floor is covered with slabs of enormous size that have fallen from the ceiling since water occupation ceased1 as is clearly shown by the sharp edges and surfaces entirely unworn4 ,the journey now becomes more interesting as the ,cliff-,climbers' ,delight is reached1 and we go steadily up the long nights of stairs until visions of ,st4 ,peter begin to rise and we wonder which way the key will turn4 ,near the top is a handsome growth of snow-white mold hanging in long draperies behind the ladder or spread like on asparagus fern flattened against the rock4 ,arrived at the top limits of the stairs the ascent is by no means finished1 but continues through three large chambers known as ,five ,points1 the ,omaha ,bee ,office--named by one of the staff of that well known journal--and the ,w4,c4,t4,u4 ,hall1 dedicated to the service of the organization by one of its workers4 ,illustration3 ,top of ,glacier4 ,page #aee4 ,at last the upward journey is ended at the ,silent ,lake in the first1 or highest1 level4 ,this1 as has already been observed1 is the only body of water now standing in the cave1 and is not more than ten feet long by six in width and twelve inches deep4 ,the scanty volume is maintained by the very limited inflow of acidulated percolating water which reaches the small receiving basin charged with calcium carbonate2 and being cold1 the charge is being precipitated on the bottom instead of forming a crust over the surface as in former times when the controlling influence was a degree of heat sufficient to sustain solid matter without disturbing motion4 ,rising above the ,silent ,lake is the ,glacier1 its moist surface suggesting that the lake is fed by a slight thaw1 while the perpendicular front at the water's edge gives the impression of a berg having recently broken off and floated away4 ,the ,glacier flows between two high walls of dark rock1 and the steep incline of perhaps seventy feet1 covered with a smooth deposit of calcite and shining with moisture1 has the appearance of ice and is as uninviting for a climb4 ,the top is connected with the roof above by a group of short1 and for this region1 heavy columns of dripstone1 the oldest formation of that character in the cave4 ,an occasional overflow of the lake passes out to one side1 then turns and goes under the ,glacier where its first few feet of descent are called the ,pearl ,beds1 where a variety of water-polished pebbles are being coated over and cemented together with calcite crystal4 ,from the ,glacier down to the lowest level of the cave by another route than that taken for the ascent1 there is abundant evidence that at one time this portion of the cave was subject to excessively violent activity1 and if studied with a view to the penetration of the principle of geyser action1 offers many interesting and valuable suggestions that can be added to and expanded into definite theories in connection with the balance of the cave2 all important requirements are clearly shown4 ,at a short distance from the ,glacier is a small circular dome1 called the ,picture ,gallery1 which evidently was shaped by water forced up from below4 ,the descent from here takes us into the ,st4 ,louis ,tunnel1 a long rough passage leading down into the great ,cathedral1 by the still descending irregularities of which we finally reach the ,garden of ,eden1 the objective point of a favorite tourist route1 but usually approached from the opposite direction4 ,it is a large chamber of very irregular shape1 with an extremely uneven ceiling1 dipping nearly to the floor and rising suddenly to distant heights1 while every portion of all the varied surfaces glitters with a mass of frost work in every form it is known to have assumed2 the banks of orange buds in different stages of expansion being exceptionally handsome4 ,a portion of this wonderful room especially admired is ,cupid's ,alcove1 where the frost is tinged with a pinkish flush from the brilliant paint clay captured in minute particles by the vapors4 ,the whole room is a marvel of loveliness1 but unfortunately visitors have wrought such noticeable damage that wire screening must be placed before the general admittance of large parties can be resumed4 ,passing out and down to a lower level1 by way of ,jacob's ,well1 we find the source of that magnificent abundance of frost work to be in the ,chamber of ,forbidden ,fruit1 where a yellow calcite floor-crust indicates the surface level of water diminishing in volume by evaporation long after the upward flow had forever ceased1 and from which the rising vapor ascended to decorate the ,garden of ,eden1 just described4 ,but since this water completely disappeared1 leaving in evidence only the record-bearing crust1 a percolating drip has prepared indisputable proof of the remote distance of that time by depositing on the crust great clusters of luscious fruits1 chiefly cherries1 which appear to have been carelessly tossed down in heaps1 but are firmly fixed in place4 ,the onward journey continues up and down through ,beacon ,heights1 a large chamber which imitates ,rocky ,mountain scenery and terminates at the ,corkscrew ,path which1 as the name indicates1 is a spiral path winding down like a great stairway against the wall of an approximately circular chamber which is perhaps the highest in the cave1 and shows the most violent water-action4 ,the plunging torrent rushed on from here to tear out the heavy rock and form the next chamber1 known as ,dante's ,inferno1 whence1 its force being divided1 it went more gently in various directions4 ,and by one of these passages we now re-enter the main route of travel once more1 and finally return to the face of the earth1 wondering if it will be possible to so describe those wonderful scenes as to represent with even a limited degree of fairness or justice the awe-inspiring grandeur of the entire trip1 or the perfection of fragile loveliness formed and preserved as by special miracles in the ,garden of ,eden4 ,one peculiarity of this great journey was that the box work1 so abundant in other portions of the cave1 was here conspicuously absent4 ,,the ,,crystal ,,palace4 ,another route in ,wind ,cave is that to the ,crystal ,palace which1 although the shortest1 is the one most seldom taken by visitors1 because of a certain amount of difficulty and discomfort being unavoidable4 ,only a portion of the great stairway below the entrance is descended1 when we abandon it and climb into a hole in the side-wall of the narrow passage1 from which point to the end of the trip our feet prove to be merely encumbrances4 ,the space crawled into and through widens sufficiently in several places to form chambers of good size1 but the height of the ceiling is nowhere more than three feet and most of it only two or even less4 ,the rough rock floor is partly carpeted with patches of loose moist clay1 which is the means of our becoming as grimy as tramps1 and its source is readily accounted for by an examination of the ceiling4 ,this is easily made while resting one skinned elbow at the expense of the other4 ,the word abraded is inadequate where anything approaching real cave study is attempted4 ,the box work of the ceiling has almost entirely lost its crystallization1 and is as ready to crumble as the enclosed clay1 which is still retained because it had not yet reached the necessary point of deterioration to be carried out before the great volume of water1 required for that service1 retired from this high level of the cave4 ,when finally reached1 the ,crystal ,palace proved worthy of the effort1 its decoration being entirely of dripstone and very beautiful1 although on too small a scale to be compared with similar work in many caves3 it is merely an attractive extra in ,wind ,cave1 and not one of the important attractions that give the ,cave the rank that may have a few equals but no superiors4 ,the first room is scarcely more than twelve feet in either direction and not quite six feet high4 ,the glassy ceiling is thickly studded with small stalactites from two to eighteen inches in length1 and mostly of the hollow pipe stem variety1 from which the surplus drip rests in white masses on the clean floor around a central bowl of good clear water4 ,down the middle of the wall directly opposite the entrance a rushing little white cascade has congealed1 and on either side just under the ceiling is a hollowed-out nook closely set with short stalactites and small columns1 all pure white4 ,near by but not connected is another room too well filled to permit an entrance1 but a portion of the wall having been carried out a satisfactory view is not denied4 ,here the floor rises to within three feet of the ceiling1 and the deposit is much heavier1 so that many fine columns rise from bases that spread and meet or overlap4 ,if the cave had no greater claim to notice than these small drip rooms1 it would still be worthy of a visit4 ,the effort to secure flash-light pictures could only be considered successful because there are none better to be had4 ,the atmosphere of ,wind ,cave is marvelously fresh and pure1 and possesses in a high degree the invigorating quality which in most caves renders unusual exertion not only possible1 but agreeable as well4 ,in all the chambers and passages there is little change in the quality of the air1 and thorough tests with a standard thermometer showed the variations on the different levels1 from the highest to the lowest1 to be about #b2 but on different days the range was from #de to #eb4 ,this curious state of affairs some one else will have to explain4 ,the only forms of life ever found in ,wind ,cave are a small fly and the mountain rat4 ,while visiting the cave1 every one connected with it was most kind and obliging1 especially in showing those beautiful and difficult portions that few visitors are so fortunate as to see4 ,while this is very far from being a complete description even of the parts visited1 it will serve to show what a truly grand cavern is located at the south end of the ,black ,hills4 ,the elevation at ,hot ,springs is three thousand1 four hundred feet1 and that of the entrance to the cave is four thousand and forty feet4 ,a source of disappointment in connection with ,wind ,cave is that its fine scenery cannot be effectively pictured4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,onyx ,,caves4 ,northwest of ,hot ,springs there is a group of three onyx caves1 the distance to them being estimated at from seven to ten miles1 if the party does not get lost1 which is the usual fate of those who dispense with the service of a driver familiar with the country4 ,in going1 the longer way1 over the hill-tops1 claims a preference on account of distant views with a favorable light4 ,when the ,onyx ,cave ,ranch is reached its scenery is found to be charming1 with an ideal log house overlooking the caon1 and itself overlooked by the rising slope of the wooded hill4 ,the entrance to the cave is in the opposite wall of the caon1 and is covered by a small cabin1 at the door of which the view demands a pause for admiration2 then the party disappears down a narrow1 rough1 sloping passage of sufficient height for comfort to none but know the value of comparative degrees4 ,it soon appeared1 however1 that personal comfort would travel only a short distance4 ,the mud increased with every step1 and in its midst was a small hole through which it was necessary to pass to the next lower level4 ,this hole being so small and its walls slanting1 the only way to accomplish the first half of the descent was to sit down in the mud and slide1 stopping half way to examine a fine ledge of beautiful striped onyx1 white and a brownish pink1 the first outcrop in the cave1 but in the next level it is seen in rich abundance and variety2 the colors being red1 black and white1 brown in several shades and pure white4 ,all are handsome and of commercial quality and hardness2 and just above them is a ledge of fine blue marble4 ,the next chamber is called the ,bad ,lands1 on account of a certain resemblance to that desolate region4 ,the way into it is through the ,devil's ,corkscrew1 a most uninviting passage because it stands on end and is about twelve feet deep with circular1 perpendicular walls discouragingly free of prominent irregularities2 but careful study reveals a few available crags and rough edges1 by which the descent is made4 ,fortunately the party decreased in size just within the entrance4 ,climbing up into a hole in the wall of this room1 with no little difficulty1 the ,aerial ,lake is the reward of a breathless upward struggle1 and a satisfying one4 ,the ,lake is very small1 but under its clear surface can be seen numerous growing deposits of calcite1 while the roof of onyx gleams with a mass of small white stalactites4 ,returning again to the main route and traveling to the end of a short passage we beheld the entrance to ,red ,hall1 a piece of rope ladder dangling half way down a perpendicular wall1 the other half having no help whatever4 ,the way was clear so far as the length of the ladder1 and with trust in the future soon learned in cave work that distance was at once passed1 and sitting on the very narrow ledge to cogitate on the possibility of further progress1 ,mr4 ,sidey solved the problem by suggesting1 rather doubtfully1 that the easiest way would be to drop off and allow him to interrupt the fall4 ,this method had twice proved the only means of advance in ,wind ,cave and can be termed rapid transit4 ,the walls of ,red ,hall are of stratified limestone variegated with patches of red rock1 and clay of the same gay hue4 ,it is the highest chamber in the cave and probably the largest4 ,a hole in the wall at the floor level1 near the entrance to the passage beyond1 gives a glimpse of the cave river flowing on a slightly lower level1 not over two feet below the floor we stand on4 ,the water is said to have a depth of fifteen feet1 and a rock thrown in gave back the sound of a splash into water not shallow4 ,entering the passage already referred to1 its dimensions decreased to a crawl and then to a squeeze1 so that most of its length was taken in a very humble position1 which permitted no regard to be paid to the ample mud or little pools of water that must be serenely dragged through as if carrying them away were an agreeable privilege4 ,even a muddy passage ends in time1 and at last we gained a standing point and after a short climb were in ,fairies' ,palace1 a marvel of dainty beauty1 and worthy of the distasteful trip just taken4 ,we stood in a narrow passage that divided the small chamber like the central aisle of a cathedral1 above which the white roof formed a ,gothic arch from which depended countless little stalactites and draperies1 while on either side1 six feet above the passage1 was a floor of onyx supporting exquisite columns of which the highest are not more than three feet4 ,only a short distance from the ,fairies' ,palace is the almost equally beautiful ,ethereal ,hall1 and connecting the two ,i had the pleasure to discover a small arched passage more beautiful than either4 ,illustration3 ,fairies' ,palace4 ,page #afe4 ,although much of the cave was still not visited1 the long drive to town demanded a return to the surface1 but several stops were made on the way to admire masses of onyx and groups of curious forms in deposits of that fine stone4 ,one high1 crooked chimney above the ,corkscrew is especially fine and correspondingly difficult for a grown person weighted down with garments dripping mud and water2 but ,kimball ,stone1 our boy friend1 scampered up like a squirrel4 ,two of the ,onyx ,caves had not been seen at all and ,mr4 ,sidey expressed special regret on account of the latest discovery as no woman had ever yet entered it2 but the sun was low in the west and the road had some dangerous points that must be passed before dark1 so the reeking skirt was removed and without waiting to dry by the great fire kindled for the purpose we hurried off1 promising to return if possible1 and carrying treasures in specimens1 besides an ancient lemon1 which may not be called a fossil1 since soft substances are said not to fossilize2 but however that may be1 this is a perfect lemon whose particles have been replaced with the lasting rock in the same way as the numerous ,cycad trunks in the same region have been preserved to prove to us conclusively that formerly the region flourished under tropical conditions1 and supported an abundant animal life of tropical nature and habits4 ,soon after leaving the ranch1 we descended by a sort of goat-trail-road into a grandly beautiful caon1 along the bed of which the road continues until it flows out as the water did in ages gone4 ,by this time it had become quite dark1 and the chill of the northwest night formed a combination with saturated clothing that cannot be highly recommended as a pleasure2 but the natural chivalry which prompted our young escort to insist on lending his own coat1 and his evident disappointment that the sacrifice was not allowed1 afforded a pleasure that will continue4 ,,the ,,white ,,onyx ,,cave4 ,a few days later it was convenient to return to the ,onyx ,cave ranch with the special object of entering the newest cave1 which could be done with the assistance of seventy feet of rope4 ,while necessary preparations were pending1 a walk up the caon was proposed4 ,at a distance of perhaps a quarter of a mile above ,onyx ,cave evidence was seen of a very remarkable form of ancient life4 ,it is not the usual few bones but is a cast in the rock of the caon bed of an animal clothed in its flesh4 ,the appearance of the head1 neck1 body and wings is preserved1 but the tail and four limbs have been carried away by eroding waters which even now have not quite forsaken the caon4 ,the containing stratum is not seen in the caon wall1 and near the lower end of the caon a fine white sandstone crops out beneath4 ,we ask3 ,was the caon cut to its full depth while yet a ,cretaceous sea was depositing beach-sand1 and did the earliest horse1 with wings1 appear at the close of that period8 ,or1 did an animal with fore limbs developed1 retain its wings into ,miocene time and leave record of its life in an arm of the ,tertiary lake8 ,the body is that of a horse with wings attached to the shoulders4 ,the head is unlike that of a modern horse1 being much shorter and more rounded1 but the parted lips give a glimpse of the teeth of a young horse4 ,if only the feet could be found1 ,i feel assured they would prove that the three-toed horse of ancient time1 so abundantly in evidence throughout this region1 was possessed of wings and in some way furnished the idea of ,pegasus4 ,a few feet further down the caon are a pair of twisted wings that show the animal to have perished in company with its mate1 while trying to escape from a sudden flood that rushed down the caon like a moving wall4 ,after some uneasy discussion about the means of entering the new cave1 it was finally decided that the available rope was too short and not of sufficient strength4 ,this was1 of course1 a disappointment but not a surprise1 as a very peculiar quality in the rope used to enter caves of this kind had come to notice before4 ,the peculiarity is1 that a rope entirely above suspicion for the safety of a two hundred pound man1 at once weakens and must be condemned when threatened with one hundred pounds of woman's weight1 yet there is an implied compliment hidden somewhere about this protective system that tends to reduce the sting of disappointment4 ,so it was agreed to spend the afternoon in the ,white ,onyx ,cave1 which is generally spoken of simply as the ,upper ,cave because it occupies a higher level than the ,onyx ,cave already described1 and is supposed to be an extension of the same although no connecting passage has been discovered4 ,the accompanying friend had not been costumed for caving1 but was persuaded to accept a full suit of overalls1 which needed the addition of a pick and pipe to make the picture perfect4 ,unfortunately a snap shot failed4 ,the entrance is in a perpendicular portion of the caon wall1 but a narrow path that starts some distance away and appears in eminent danger of falling off1 makes most of the ascent comparatively easy2 and the balance is completed by a short ladder whose rounds dip toward the caon bed in a rather alarming manner1 but this only proves the folly of giving too much heed to appearances1 for it is strong and firmly fastened to the rocks4 ,just within the entrance there is height sufficient for standing1 but the roof descends suddenly and the walls come near together1 reducing the passage to a crawl1 and showing that in past times water poured in at this opening and not out as might be supposed4 ,the first chamber entered is the ,crystal ,gallery1 but it is so nearly filled with great masses of pure white onyx no standing room remains4 ,drops of water on portions of the onyx ceiling here are the only moisture remaining in this cave4 ,when ,mac's#e head came in contact with the roof he called to the guide3 ,see here1 little boy1 you ought to sing out 'low bridge' at that sort o' places1 'cause when ,i'm busy hunting a spot to set my foot in1 ,i can't see what my head's coming to1 and ,i like to mined a lot o' this rock with it4 ,slowly1 and with no danger and less comfort1 we creep over1 under and between great massive beds of the fine white crystalline rock until at length we enter the ,ghost ,chamber where no onyx has been deposited1 but where numerous mountain rats have evidently been at home for many years1 if we may judge from the enormous quantity of pine needles with which they have carpeted the floor4 ,the walls show small box work crumbling to dust1 and ,ray climbed high into the chimney-like opening above our heads1 but reported that it ended suddenly and had no attractions to offer4 ,coming out1 the way was somewhat varied1 but more difficult1 as the passages through the onyx beds were more irregular and more nearly closed2 ,onyx ,hall being only a fair specimen of the marvelous results achieved here by the persistent regularity of an uninterrupted but slow drip1 continued through hundreds of years4 ,illustration3 ,white ,onyx ,masses4 ,page #agj4 ,illustration3 ,looking out of ,white ,onyx ,cave4 ,page #aga4 ,it is surprising that in all these heavy beds there is no line or tint1 or slightest trace of color anywhere1 while the other ,onyx ,cave1 so near as to suggest connection1 has a gorgeous variety of rich coloring4 ,the view looking out from the entrance of ,white ,onyx ,cave is wonderfully fine1 and equally so whether the rain falls or the sun shines1 a timely shower giving us an opportunity to enjoy both4 ,before leaving the ranch1 a promise was made by ,mr4 ,sidey to write a short description of the other cave1 which he kindly did1 and it is here given4 ,he says3 ,in trailing a deer ,i came across a hole on top of a long divide4 ,on throwing a rock down the opening1 ,i could hear it rattling against the walls until the sounds gradually died away1 but there seemed to be no bottom to the hole1 and ,i resolved to come again prepared and make explorations4 ,after the snow had gone my twelve-year-old son1 ,ray1 and ,i1 mounted on our trusty horses1 ,bonnie and ,dee1 equipped with ropes1 candles1 hammers and a pocketful of matches1 set out to explore the new cave4 ,it was a beautiful1 bright spring morning1 and after an hour's hard climbing over fallen timber and rocks1 we reached the summit of the mountain4 ,a search of half an hour revealed the opening which was barely large enough to allow me to pass through4 ,fastening our ropes securely to a stout log rolled across the chasm1 we began to pay it out1 and although we did not feel it touch bottom1 ,i started down to explore1 the length of the rope at least4 ,as ,i descended ,i found the opening gradually widened out to eight or ten feet1 a sort of inverted funnel-shaped hole with irregular wall but smooth and affording little footing4 ,as ,i neared the bottom ,i saw the end of the rope was within four feet of it1 so ,i landed on terra firma and called to ,ray1 ',all right1 come down6' ,lighting our candles we found ourselves standing on a mound of pure onyx1 and on looking around could see we were in an immense cavern1 whose walls sparkled and glittered as if studded with diamonds4 ,going down twenty feet we found a smooth-floored room that measured three hundred feet in length1 twenty five feet in width1 and thirty feet in height4 ,the walls were solid white onyx lined or banded with pink and golden stripes4 ,the ceiling was arched1 and draped in fantastic shapes1 and hung with stalactites innumerable4 ,the room was so large and the drapery and festooning so delicate and beautiful1 that we were filled with awe and could not speak for a time4 ,at last we started to further explore this wonderland4 ,on going to the farther end of the room we found a passage leading on4 ,this we followed for a hundred feet and found the whole cavern lined with onyx and crystals clear as glass4 ,after loading up with specimens we retraced our steps and on reaching the large room we had first entered we heard a roaring1 rumbling noise4 ,an awful noise truly1 which filled us with an unknown dread4 ,on approaching the entrance we saw a stream of water pouring down1 completely filling the hole4 ,for a moment we felt like rats caught in a trap1 our only way of egress occupied by a stream of water falling straight down seventy feet1 and then we wondered how long it would take to fill up the room4 ,suddenly the thought that there might be an outlet for the water gave us new hope1 so we went to see and sure enough we found a natural water-course down through an opening we had overlooked4 ,we gathered up courage once more1 and thought the best thing would be something to occupy our time4 ,so we set to work getting out more specimens and in a couple of hours the water stopped running and we were ourselves once more4 ,ray grasped the rope1 which was soaking wet1 and went up the seventy feet1 hand over hand1 like a cat4 ,i1 being heavier1 found it quite different from going down4 ,the rope played whip-cracker with me for some time and before reaching the top ,i was covered with bruises4 ,but daylight never appeared so beautiful before4 ,here we found the cause of so much water4 ,a cloud-burst had occurred on the ,divide and a large portion of it had poured down the passage way to the cave4 ,we found our horses patiently waiting for us and night closing in4 ,mounting we rode rapidly home1 resolved never to venture into this cave again without leaving some one at the entrance to give warning in case of danger4 ,john ,f4 ,sidey4 ,the first specimen taken out was given to us on our first visit to the ranch1 and is pure white with a stripe of brilliant golden yellow4 ,having been invited to give a name to this new find it seems quite proper after reading the description of the deluge and seeing the bright bands of color1 and considering the hopeful promise of future possibilities1 to call it ,the ,rainbow ,cave4 ,,footnotes3 #e ,colored driver4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,crystal ,,cave4 ,south ,dakota can boast of yet another cave in the ,black ,hills that was formed by volcanic disturbance of the rocks and afterwards decorated in a manner peculiar to itself4 ,this is ,crystal ,cave4 ,it is nine miles from ,piedmont in the eastern edge of the ,hills1 and easily visited from that point by way of the narrow-gauge road1 which winds along the natural curves of the beautiful ,elk ,creek caon1 whose walls are said to expose a depth of almost a mile of geological strata1 although the exposure at any one point does not exceed three hundred feet4 ,the disappointment of not having seen this cave during the summer visit to the ,hills grew as the weeks passed1 and a request that the owner should send a description was answered with an assurance that it was impossible4 ,therefore1 on ,friday1 ,november #acth1 #ahif1 with a small nephew1 ,herbert ,a4 ,owen1 ,jr41 for company1 the trip was undertaken a second time to complete the unfinished mission4 ,the first glimpse of the ,hills is at ,edgemont in the early morning1 but the train makes its way to the north through the heart of the uplift1 twisting about the curves of the hills and clinging to the sides of a beautiful caon whose high walls give way here and there to fine slopes densely covered with forests of pine and spruce4 ,these look black in the distance and suggested the name of ,black ,hills to the ,indians1 who always have a reason for the names they give even to their children4 ,there are great tracts where fire has killed part or all of the timber but left much of it standing1 while in other places nature has defied the power of fire and the hills are re-clothed with young trees4 ,a recent storm had further beautified the region with a few inches of snow1 but as the day advanced a chinook began to blow so that when ,deadwood was reached1 soon after noon1 only the northern exposures retained an appearance of winter4 ,deadwood is a most peculiar little city and very attractive in its peculiarity1 being crowded snugly into a depression between a number of steep pine-wooded hills1 which gives an appearance suggestive of a bird's nest securely located among the forks of a branching tree1 and as is the case in a nest1 business is chiefly transacted at the lowest depth of the enclosure4 ,as the busy center of a great gold-mining region1 the metropolis of the ,hills1 and the outgrowth of an exciting historical past1 it claims and receives interesting attention4 ,and while the whole ,black ,hills region is still distinctly a man's country1 it is called woman's paradise1 and surely nowhere else are the daughters of ,eve received with a more gracious courtesy or surrounded by an equally unobtrusive protecting care4 ,illustration3 ,approaching ,deadwood4 ,page #agf4 ,the streets leading up to the residences lack very little of standing on end1 and the houses appear to have been hung in place by means of hooks and wire cord like pictures on a wall4 ,the smelter has no reception day but admits visitors as if their pleasure were a guarantee of profit4 ,the finest scenery in the ,hills is said to be that of the ,spearfish ,caon1 north of ,deadwood1 and the finest of that at the ,falls1 but this may be doubtful as other points are very beautiful1 especially where the ,burlington ,missouri ,road requires a distance of seven miles to climb the caon wall4 ,piedmont being the nearest town to ,crystal ,cave1 we took the early evening train on the ,elk ,horn ,road and soon were located1 and shocked to learn that the proprietor of the cave had started several days before to drive to ,wind ,cave for specimens4 ,the cave was closed and no one there4 ,the trip had been taken for the one purpose of exploring ,crystal ,cave1 and a letter sent in advance to announce our coming1 but the train carrying it was an hour late so he drove off without the mail4 ,there seemed at first nothing to be done but take the next returning train1 which1 under the circumstances1 was objectionable4 ,a night's rest and a telegram that had to be sent twelve miles by special messenger1 improved the situation4 ,the proprietor was unavoidably detained at ,wind ,cave1 but secured a reliable guide1 expressed me the cave keys1 and has since married the specimen he had gone in quest of4 ,may great happiness dwell at the cave many years6 ,the morning of the third day after our arrival found arrangements all complete1 and soon after the train left ,piedmont it entered ,elk ,creek ,caon1 which is always beautiful1 but on that morning was exceptionally so on account of a sudden change in the weather having covered every visible portion of the passing landscape with heavy frost4 ,the trees on distant hills that ordinarily are black1 were1 for once1 all softly white1 and when the tall pines in the caon were shaken by a breeze1 they cast a shower of flakes like snow4 ,here the caon walls are in ,carboniferous ,limestone with a pleasing variety of color in the strata1 and the erosion-carving not overdone1 the most notable piece being the ,knife-blade4 ,this1 at first view1 appears to be a high1 round tower1 but the train following the curve1 reveals the fact that it is not a tower1 but a thin1 curved knife-blade4 ,the sun just for one instant shone through a rift in the clouds1 and added special charm to the scene4 ,illustration3 ,the ,knife-,blade4 ,page #agh4 ,a short distance beyond is ,crystal ,cave station1 where the guide was waiting to take us in charge4 ,he is an intelligent young man who has served an enlistment term in the army1 is recently married1 very obliging1 and proud of being trustworthy4 ,the scenery here is most beautiful as well as grand4 ,the caon makes a sharp turn toward the south1 and on the north opens out into another caon of even greater beauty and higher walls1 the perpendicular being three hundred feet in places4 ,crystal ,cave is in the hill embraced by the junction curve4 ,the natural entrance is more than two hundred feet above the caon bed and was naturally approached from above4 ,a short walk up the north caon1 whose name has unfortunately slipped away1 was over ice and snow the chinook had failed to reach1 and brought us to a long stairway against the wall1 which affords a more direct approach than nature gave and is a fair test of physical perfection4 ,finally a resting place is reached where the grandeur of the view can be enjoyed2 and then a shorter stairway completes the ascent of the wall1 but not of the hill1 so there is still a considerable upward walk through the forest of tall pines all carpeted with brilliant mats of kinnikinic with its shining leaves1 glowing in shades of green and red1 trying to rival the bright scarlet berries4 ,the kinnikinic here resembles the wintergreen of the east1 while in the mountains in ,colorado it grows in the form of a shrub two to three feet in height1 but with no variation in the leaf or berry4 ,at last perserverance is rewarded with a view of the cave buildings and the summit of the hill rising yet higher beyond1 and tall1 straight pines swaying in the rising wind over all4 ,one of the two houses was entered and preparations quickly made for entering the cave1 the artificial tunnel entrance being only a little distance further on4 ,the door was unlocked1 candle-sticks taken from a shelf within1 candles from the guide's supply lighted1 and we went forward at last1 into ,crystal ,cave4 ,at the end of the new tunnel1 a second door was passed through1 which is locked on the inside during the visiting season by the last guide to enter1 in order that no chance late arrival may enter alone and be lost4 ,the first room is a small one at the junction of the natural and artificial entrances1 from which we go upstairs to the ,resting ,room1 in the highest level of the cave1 and perfectly dry but otherwise of no special interest4 ,after a short rest here we went down stairs at the side opposite that on which we entered1 into a passage leading to the cave's first beauty1 the ,red ,room4 ,as the name indicates1 the walls are vividly colored and represent the uncertain line which separates the ,carboniferous strata from the ,triassic rocks4 ,the color is handsomely brought out here in contrast with masses of calcite crystal1 so as to present by the combination a charmingly beautiful room1 from which we retired1 feet first1 down a squeeze to the ,bridal ,chamber1 where we found ourselves perched on an irregular narrow ledge1 high up on the wall1 and cherishing a private conviction that exploration had met a checkmate2 but the guide reached the floor and my nephew1 ,herbert1 scrambled down with as much ease as the chipmunk he had chased to the house top a while before2 so a little application settled the difficulty and re-united the party4 ,the room is an artistic study in red1 and the only reason for its being called the ,bridal ,chamber is that the way out is decidedly more rough and difficult than that by which the entrance is effected2 this1 however1 is an observation not based on official information4 ,off to one side of this room is ,lost ,man's ,paradise1 also in red and crystal1 named in honor of the timely rescue of one who had faced the possibility of becoming a lost soul4 ,another ,fat ,man's ,misery1 on a lower level1 leads from the ,bridal ,chamber to the ,big ,dome1 a large room with a fine dome-shaped ceiling from which heavy masses of crystals have fallen to the floor2 and down a steep incline from here is ,reef ,rock1 an immense fallen rock with box work on the under side1 which at one time served to ornament the ceiling2 and now this rock marks the beginning of ,poverty ,flat1 a broad1 low passage of great extent1 that has been robbed of all its wonderful treasure of crystal and ends in a steep1 rough declivity named ,bunker ,hill by the guides who dreaded to mount it when going out loaded with specimens4 ,at the foot of the ,hill is a bowlder of enormous size and with a pointed top1 known as ,pyramid ,rock and giving the same name to the large room in which it stands4 ,every portion of ,crystal ,cave has at one time been heavily crusted with calcite crystals1 mainly of the dog-tooth variety1 and any barren places are so either because the surface has been removed for specimens1 or thrown down by the violence of an earthquake4 ,but where the latter has been the cause of removal1 the crystals have in most cases been renewed1 which is amply evidenced by the fallen masses being crystallized on all sides2 and these as well as most of the walls1 are not covered thinly with one crust1 but layer has been added to layer until the thickness is four to ten inches and often more4 ,the ceilings that have been denuded by nature's forces during the same early period when water filled the cave were also renewed4 ,from the ,pyramid ,room a narrow fissure forms a passage to the ,cactus ,chamber1 where there is a marvelous floor on which the crystals are in bunches like cacti1 and the beautiful ceiling is the finest and most irregular unbroken mass of crystal yet seen4 ,passing through a round hole known as the ,needle's ,eye1 we enter ,statuary ,hall1 where the latest inrush of water has eroded the sharp points from the crystals1 leaving only smooth surfaces1 and at the same time done much curious carving1 the most conspicuous pieces of this work being a bear and the heads of an ,indian and his baby4 ,out from the ,hall are two important routes1 one down the steep incline of ,beaver's ,slide to ,the ,catacombs1 and another1 which we followed first1 is through ,rocky ,run1 a rough and rocky pass1 to a large and handsomely crystallized chamber called the ,i4,x4,l4 ,room1 on account of those three letters1 over twelve inches in height1 being distinctly and conspicuously worked in crystal on a magnificent piece of box work that would weigh nearly half a ton1 for which an offer of five hundred dollars is said to have been refused4 ,the next chamber beyond is ,tilotson ,hall1 very large and extremely rough1 and named in honor of a teacher from the ,normal ,school1 who delivered an address here that gave much pleasure to both visitors and guides4 ,the way to farther advance is now more difficult and through a jagged crevice of threatening appearance1 but the trip is made in safety and with comparative ease1 and brings us into ,notre ,dame1 one of the largest chambers in the cave and perhaps the finest1 although where so much is fine that may be uncertain4 ,the display of box work and crystal is sufficiently gorgeous to do honor to the famous old cathedral of ,france1 the ceiling especially being a masterpiece of the builder's and decorator's arts2 but the grandest portion1 which a visitor recently returned from foreign travel called ,the ,russian ,castle1 on account of the magnificence of the large box work and pearly crystal masses1 should rather be known as the great cathedral's crowning glory1 ,the ,altar4 ,another large room1 the handsome ,council ,chamber1 is entered just as that ,altar of pearl is lost to view2 and from there an up-hill trip is taken through a narrow crevice to ,whale ,flat1 which is the natural history room1 with a large whale as the show specimen4 ,going out from here we enter another crevice which serves as a steep stairway descending to a lower level1 and measures from top to bottom one hundred and eighteen feet4 ,this is called ,rip ,van ,winkle's ,stairway1 and although merely a high and crooked crack in the rock1 is very beautiful because heavily coated with crystal1 the effect being especially striking at the top where the crystal is partly worn away and leaves exposed patches of red rock4 ,at the foot of the ,stairway is the first room containing water1 and is called the ,gypsy ,camp4 ,it is the most charming chamber yet visited1 with not the smallest spot of plain or common rock visible4 ,the ceiling1 walls1 floor1 and groups of fallen rocks1 are all unbroken masses of pearly calcite in crystals of varied sizes1 with here and there a patch coated over with pure white carbonate of lime1 or supporting a bunch of fragile egg-shell1 which is a thin1 hollow crust of lime carbonate1 almost invariably having the pointed form of the dog-tooth spar4 ,and there are also beautiful mats and banks of dainty white carbonate flowers4 ,while waiting here for the guide to go in quest of the lunch we had carelessly left behind1 the time was utilized in measuring the room1 which is a small one4 ,the size of the cave and our limited time for seeing it1 prevented much-desired measurements from being taken in all parts of the cave4 ,this room was found to be forty-eight feet long1 the irregular width varied from fourteen to thirty feet and the height from four and one-half to ten feet4 ,the crystal water basin is especially beautiful and the water so clear that we stood looking into it with disappointment1 being thirsty and thinking it dry1 until the guide laughingly dipped and offered a cupful4 ,the basin is the segment of a circle rounding beneath a massive1 overhanging crystal ledge of wonderful beauty1 and is nine feet long by two in width4 ,this room and the ,stairway into it are alone worthy of a visit1 but there is much that is finer still4 ,out of ,gypsy ,camp by way of ,gunny ,sack ,crawl1 so named by the workmen who spread gunny sacks to relieve the torture of crawling over the beautiful floor of sharp crystals1 we enter the first chamber1 where active operation is still maintained and certain branches of the great decorative industry of the cave may be carefully studied4 ,this operative chamber1 which is unnamed1 would no doubt be called a factory in the east1 but in its own locality would more likely be referred to as ,the ,works4 ,the next chamber entered is ,crystal ,flat1 whose floor is completely covered with immense crystal blocks1 and the wonderful crystal ceiling is exceedingly fine4 ,but time being limited we must pass on into the ,lake ,room1 where is ,crystal ,lake1 the largest body of water in the cave4 ,it is about thirty feet long by fifteen wide and its greatest depth is said to be ten feet4 ,the water is cold and clear1 and the gold fish introduced as an experiment three years ago are said to have grown rapidly but not yet turned white1 and are not known to have become blind4 ,illustration3 ,the ,bridal ,veil4 ,page #ahg4 ,at some little distance from ,crystal ,lake1 and not within the same range of vision1 although in the same room1 is ,dry ,lake1 which to the surprise of the guide we found to be not dry1 but full of limpid water through which we could distinctly see the delicate clusters of crystals it is depositing4 ,they are of a pale honey yellow and are called ,gum-drops on account of the resemblance to that variety of confection4 ,the name ,dry ,lake was given because in blasting out a passage a misdirected shot went through the bottom of the ,lake1 which in consequence was soon drained2 but the heavily charged water has sealed up the unfortunate break1 and resumed its interrupted work4 ,the ceiling drops to a height of little more than three feet directly above the ,lake margin1 and is a beautiful crystal mass1 which at a little distance down the sloping floor appears as the background for a fine piece of cave statuary called ,the ,bridal ,veil1 and formed of cream-tinted dripstone4 ,not a great deal of imagination is required to see a slender girlish figure completely enveloped in the flowing folds of a wedding veil that falls lightly about her feet4 ,the figure itself is three feet ten inches in height and stands on an almost flat circular base of the same material1 that measures nine inches in depth and two feet eight inches in diameter4 ,at times the water rises sufficiently to cover the base1 in proof of which it left a fringe-like border of small sharp crystals1 such as could be formed only beneath the water's surface4 ,most of this border has1 unfortunately1 been chiseled off for specimens1 but will be renewed in time if left undisturbed2 and that condition can easily be secured with a few feet of wire netting4 ,to one side of this room is a most daintily beautiful alcove so profusely decorated with fragile forms of dripstone that a passage through it without causing damage is extremely difficult4 ,this alcove is about twenty-five feet in either direction1 with a sloping floor almost covered with stalagmitic growths above the earlier deposit of sharp crystals1 and many of these rise in slender columns to the glass-like ceiling1 which varies in height from three to six feet and is thickly studded with small stalactites of both varieties--the pointed1 solid form1 and those of uniform size1 which are always hollow like a pipe stem4 ,the central ornament is the ,chimes1 a musical group of stalactites which is scarcely more beautiful than ,cleopatra's ,needle1 at a distance of a few feet to one side1 a transparent column four feet in height and having an average circumference of seventeen inches4 ,illustration3 ,the ,chimes4 ,page #ahh4 ,illustration3 ,the ,needle4 ,page #ahh4 ,illustration3 ,tower of ,babel4 ,page #ahi4 ,the ,abode of the ,fairies is a similar1 though smaller room1 with ,the ,tower of ,babel for a handsome show-piece4 ,while this portion of the cave is extremely attractive1 the measurements given show that in comparison with caves of other states the drip deposit here is too small to be reckoned an important feature in itself1 but in conjunction with the miles of calc-spar that give the cave a character distinctly its own1 it well repays all attention4 ,leaving ,lake ,room we enter a newly opened1 long1 dry passage to ,slab ,room1 where a comparatively recent earthquake has shaken down the ornamental ceiling and spread it in great slabs over the floor2 and having since remained perfectly dry it has the appearance of being the work of yesterday4 ,this room is remembered as the one in which a party of workers were lost1 and one of their number gave a severe nervous shock to the junior proprietor by suggesting that as he was acting as guide and unable to lead them out1 it was only right that he should be the first victim to satisfy their hunger4 ,a rescuing party with extinguished candles was listening behind a rock to the blood-curdling speech1 and came forward to restore cheerfulness4 ,a long1 irregular1 frosty looking crevice called ,jack ,frost ,streak1 conducts us from ,slab ,room and ends at ,mold ,ladder1 on which we pause to admire a wonderful growth of snow-white cave vegetation1 before ascending into ,santa ,claus' ,pass1 the longest passage in the cave4 ,it is a rough crevice named from the fact of being discovered on ,christmas ,eve1 and ends at the ,government ,room on the main tourist route where a ,u4,s4 pack saddle and apparently portable bath tub are conspicuous4 ,next beyond is a very large room named ,new ,zealand1 on account or its icy appearance and the undisputed possession of a seal4 ,this room in turn opens into ,mold ,chamber1 where an old board platform1 formerly used for the display of specimens1 has fostered the most marvelously beautiful growth of mold3 it hangs in ropes five and six feet long1 with tasseled ends1 and in broad1 looped draperies2 but is most beautiful where it has taken possession of the rocks and spreads out on the flat surface like large open fans1 with deep1 soft feather borders4 ,having been in the cave eight hours1 we now followed the outward passage from ,mold ,chamber and soon reached an open trap door where the guide suggested to ,herbert that he would be afraid to go down alone and allow him to close the door2 but the child surprised him by quietly stepping down and then asking why he wished it1 only to be told because we are coming too4 ,which we did and found ourselves in the main entrance passage1 and in due time returned to the outer world where a terrific wind was roaring through the tall pines and the early winter evening had already closed in dark4 ,the guide locked the cave1 walked with us to the house where he lighted a lamp and left us to prepare for the return to town2 but the lamp1 belonging to a bachelor1 was empty1 so we made our preparations in imitation of the blind4 ,on the guide's return he lighted a candle1 but suggested that twenty minutes were generally allowed for reaching the station4 ,the house was accordingly closed and as we walked down the long1 curving slope to the stairway1 he told of a new and unknown bob-tailed wolf that has recently made its first appearance among the hills in considerable numbers and to the terror of stock4 ,it attacks and bites horses or cattle1 and after waiting for the fatal poison inflicted to take effect1 falls to and eats the victim4 ,the uncovered platform which serves as a station being reached a few minutes before the train arrived1 ,i expressed an unwillingness to detain our guide longer on account of his having a walk of four and a half miles to his home2 but he declined to consider the subject2 saying he had been directed not to leave us until we were taken safely on the train1 which came sweeping round the curve on time and stopped for us4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,crystal ,,cave ,,concluded4 ,according to agreement the guide again met us at the station on the following morning1 for another day in the cave1 which we entered with no unnecessary loss of time1 and hurrying through the main entrance passage1 ,government ,room and ,statuary ,hall1 went down ,beaver ,slide1 which1 on the previous day1 we had passed to enter ,rocky ,run4 ,our descent into the crevice took us past those portions known as ,suspension ,bridge and ,rebecca's ,well1 and over some very rough country to the most wonderful parts of the cave4 ,numerous passages open out in various directions2 one to rooms of frost work of great beauty2 another to the ,ribbon ,room where the drip deposits on the walls are in ribbon-like stripes of red1 yellow1 and white1 while others yet are ways to the ,catacombs4 ,and it is the ,catacombs we particularly wish to see1 as they most perfectly represent the individual character of the cave and have1 as yet1 received no injury from either time or man2 but is a region as difficult to travel as the way of the transgressor1 and many miles can be traversed with no prospect of coming to the end4 ,but where locomotion is so slow and painful1 the owner of a pedometer would find that instrument a discouraging companion and soon learn better than to consult its record publicly4 ,the ,catacombs are a series of connected fissures and small crevices in which every inch of exposed surface is covered with clear1 translucent1 almost transparent1 calcite crystals1 neither coated with lime nor stained with clay2 nor even is the pearly lustre dimmed with the slightest trace of dust4 ,the crystals are very sharp and of all sizes1 ranging from half an inch to three and a half inches in length1 the larger sizes being conspicuously abundant4 ,the entire region is an enormously large1 perfectly formed1 and undamaged geode4 ,in reality1 the whole cave is a great cluster of connected geodes1 and a similar work probably does not exist1 but if it does1 has never been discovered4 ,the fissures from which it is formed were opened by volcanic violence and then enlarged1 and afterwards decorated by the varied power of water1 in action or repose4 ,when the storms toward the close of the ,tertiary period suddenly overwhelmed with floods the dense growth of tropical vegetation and multitudinous animal life in the ,northwest1 the waters necessarily became heavily charged with the naturally resulting carbonic acid gas1 and this1 acting on the limestone rocks1 would decompose them1 leaving a residual clay and taking the chief portions of the mineral components in solution1 to be afterwards deposited according to circumstances and conditions2 and these are indicated by the various results found in ,wind ,cave1 ,crystal ,cave1 the ,onyx ,caves and the ,bad ,lands4 ,the latter being previous to that time by no means bad1 but richly luxuriant in tropical vegetation1 which gave shelter from the heat to great numbers of curious animals4 ,some approximate idea of the extreme age of these caves may be gained from the fact that bones of a three-toed horse have been discovered in a chamber of ,crystal ,cave that must be practically unchanged since the remains were carried in from the outside1 as otherwise they would have been buried beneath the fallen masses of crystal covered rock with which the entire floor is cumbered4 ,and yet this room is so remote from any present connection with the outer world that it is impossible for their introduction to have taken place in recent times4 ,in the beautiful ,catacombs progress is as slow as in a cactus thicket or a blackberry patch4 ,the crevices lack none of the usual crevice irregularities2 high places must be mounted or descended1 chasms crossed and narrow passages crawled through1 while extra caution must be exercised to avoid striking the head or making a misstep that might result in a fall4 ,the hands are in constant use and soon become so sensitive that holding a soft handkerchief gives infinite relief2 but the worst experience is the crawls where only the soles of the feet1 being temporarily turned up1 seem safe from the savage treatment of the sharp calcite dog-teeth4 ,the worst crawl encountered was a small one having a downward slope with a jump-off at the end which necessitated its being taken feet first4 ,fortunately it was short4 ,but in no place do the difficulties outweigh the pleasure of beholding scenes of such beauty1 or suggest regret for the time1 torn garments1 and personal exertion required for its enjoyment4 ,in many portions of the cave the surface layer of crystals has had the points worn away by the action of water1 later than that in which they were formed2 but in the ,catacombs and other extensive regions as well1 the finished work of crystallization is preserved in an absolutely perfect condition4 ,and everywhere the largest crystals are on the under side of a projection or the roof of a cavity4 ,as the day was passing far too rapidly and many points of special interest yet remained unseen1 we turned with reluctance from the beauty and relief from the hardships of exploration in the ,catacombs1 and made our way over a crevice into ,santa ,claus' ,pass1 which was traversed for a considerable distance and then abandoned for a low crawl terminating at the ,senate ,chamber4 ,this is a large room extending to ,poverty ,flat1 and is brilliantly red and purely white1 most of the crystal presenting a smooth surface4 ,under the ,senate ,chamber there is said to be some fine box work which we had no time to visit4 ,the name of this chamber was given by a visiting party composed of members of both houses of ,congress4 ,a smaller room1 which is really an extension of the ,senate ,chamber1 has handsome walls of white and red box work on account of which the same distinguished party called it the ,senate ,post-office4 ,from here a difficult crawl1 through red rock1 well-worn by the action of water1 leads to the ,starr ,chamber1 another large room in white and red1 and named by ,senator ,starr of ,south ,dakota4 ,opening out from the last room is a curious1 dangerous looking1 narrow1 crevice-chamber known as ,suicide ,room on account of the threatening appearance of over-hanging rocks1 some of which have at times fallen in great masses of various sizes to form an irregular floor2 and a descent of this is necessary in order to reach a short and extremely rough crawl1 beautifully and painfully decorated with sharp crystals above and below and on the sides4 ,from this we emerge into ,rainy ,chamber1 an elliptical room not less than two hundred feet long by one hundred feet wide1 with a tent-like ceiling rising high in the center and sloping down to meet the floor1 which also slopes irregularly toward a deep central depression1 giving the room a greater height than any other visited4 ,the high points are generally seen in the narrow crevices1 while the rooms of generous length and breadth are usually low1 many of the largest having an average of five feet or even less4 ,although there is frequent intersection of crevices1 and each chamber has passages leading out on every side1 the general direction of the cave is said to be northwest-southeast4 ,rainy ,chamber is named from the fact that during the early months of summer water falls constantly in the form of a light shower2 but it drips at all times1 and in consequence there is an opportunity to study the active process of formation of one of the deposits which is very abundant in ,wind ,cave and considered the most perplexing4 ,this is the pop-corn1 and the theories of its origin have been steadily rejected at ,wind ,cave because of a doubt being entertained as to whether it has been deposited under water or by drippings4 ,here in ,rainy ,chamber it is fully explained4 ,near the center of the room the fallen masses are heavily crystallized1 much of the groundwork being fine box work and the crystals in perfect condition4 ,on these crystals the pop-corn is being formed1 and specimens can be seen in all stages of development1 from the beginning to an approximate degree of finish2 and whatever the position it occupies on the receiving surface1 either on top1 underneath1 or on a side exposure1 it always maintains the same relative position as growing plants on the mundane sphere4 ,the water falling on the upper surface in scattering drops forms myriads of minute stalagmites2 on side positions the falling drop first strikes the point exposed to its line of descent and then spreads4 ,the scant moisture slowly makes its way down sloping sides and shelving edges1 leaving on each small irregularity a tiny portion of its volume1 to deposit an infinitely small charge of solid substance1 and the balance finally hangs in moisture less than drops on the growing grains of the under surface4 ,pop-corn1 therefore1 is the globular aragonite of the stalagmitic variety4 ,a small specimen from ,rainy ,chamber1 placed beside one of the same color from ,wind ,cave1 shows them to be absolutely alike4 ,rainy ,chamber is the room in which the bones of the three-toed horse1 already referred to1 were found1 but their presence has not yet been explained2 therefore the case is open to conjecture and several theories may be advanced and their values considered4 ,the first question when such a discovery is made1 is whether the living animal was possibly a cave-dweller2 which1 as the horse was not1 is quickly disposed of and attention turned to the next1 the possibility of a carniverous animal having carried his prey into the dark recesses of the cave in order that the enjoyment of his dinner might be undisturbed4 ,this theory is equally unavailable by reason of the topographical features presented4 ,if the present natural entrance to the cave were the only way into this room from the outside1 the distance was too great and beset with many difficulties2 besides which the final passage is too small to admit an animal of sufficient size to carry any considerable portion of even a very small horse4 ,but if at that period the room had direct communication with the outside through an opening since closed1 the shape of the walls indicate that it must have been a pot-hole in the roof1 and through this an animal could have entered by falling1 which the horse and others may have done4 ,but it seems most probable that the remains were carried in by the water through such a hole before it was closed at the beginning of the ,quaternary period1 when the erosion of the ,hills was most active4 ,rainy ,chamber also contains a large and beautiful assortment of the small polished and coated pebbles called cave pearls4 ,the guide being anxious that we should not fail to see the ,niagara ,room1 we now turned toward a low1 broad opening in the wall1 a short distance to the right of the entrance1 where the rising floor and descending ceiling1 failing to meet1 had overlapped2 so we made our way up a steep1 smooth bank1 and then down on the other side over a broken1 rocky surface for a distance of about twenty feet1 when the roof at last joined the floor and two small water-worn holes at the point of junction revealed an untempting passage within4 ,the broader of these holes was three feet1 but too low to be considered an entrance2 the other was round but certainly not so large as our guide1 who was preparing to enter it with doubts of his ability to make the trip1 on account of having increased in size since his one entrance there1 on which occasion two smaller guides pulled him through the tightest places4 ,carefully comparing his size with that of the hole he sat beside1 there was no possibility of doubt that if the attempt were made he would stick fast1 and that would place our little party in dire straits4 ,consequently ,i insisted that it should not be1 but he was unwilling that ,niagara should be missed when so near4 ,finally ,i positively refused to go unless he would consent to give us instructions and remain where he was while we went without him1 to which he at last yielded with extreme unwillingness4 ,he had frequently shown us the guide's marks1 and now earnestly cautioned me to advance only as they point1 and turn back if they should fail4 ,the small nephew went on a reconnoitering expedition to the end of the passage1 and reported that the jump-off there was higher than himself but he could get down4 ,i now crawled through the hole and found the passage to be a crawl or rather a sprawl1 from fifteen to eighteen inches high1 but having an ample width varying from three to six feet4 ,the smooth1 straight floor has a steep downward inclination and is thickly covered with dust4 ,having reached the widest portion1 which is near the end1 ,herbert directed me to turn1 so as to come down the jump-off feet first1 where there was a little difficulty in landing1 as the perpendicular wall1 which proved to be almost five feet high1 offered only one projecting help1 and that within a few inches of the base2 but in obedience to his advice to reach one foot a little farther down and then drop1 ,i advanced the right one1 to be told not that1 but the other1 and was soon down where it was possible to observe with interest that the right foot had been swinging above an open fissure4 ,we stood in a wide crevice running at right angles to the obnoxious passage we had just quit1 and immediately found a guide's mark on a large rock1 and others followed at intervals of a few feet over extremely rough country as the guides say4 ,everywhere the work of water was apparent1 not in the crystal deposits of still water as in other portions of the cave1 but the erosion due to its rushing through4 ,carefully following the marks1 they led into a cross-crevice that took us under ,rainy ,chamber1 and ends there by widening into a circular chamber of about fifty feet width in either direction1 and rising to a height of nearly fifty feet in a fine dome4 ,down the wall from near the top of the dome there appears to flow a beautiful waterfall showing a variety of colors in the straight lines1 as if from refraction4 ,the fall is1 of course1 dripstone1 and ,i knew we had found ,niagara1 although we had gone beyond the reach of the guide's voice almost at the start4 ,a huge rock directly under the dome has received the falling drip until it represents a mountain cataract4 ,these deposits testify to the great age of the chamber they adorn1 as they were necessarily not commenced until all heavy flow ceased1 and in ,crystal ,cave the accumulation of dripstone is so slow that it is said six years' observation can detect no increase whatever4 ,several small passages at the floor level gave exit to the great volume of water that evidently at one time entered this crevice1 from ,rainy ,chamber1 by the route we followed1 and being checked in its course the lower end of the crevice became filled1 under pressure2 and the low position of the outlets gave this water a whirling motion that in time excavated the dome-shaped room4 ,no part of ,crystal ,cave has ever been occupied by a river1 but its fissures1 opened by the violence of earth movements accompanying nearby volcanic disturbances1 have been filled more than once by the inrush of waters which repeatedly submerged the whole ,black ,hills region4 ,following again the marks which guided us into ,niagara ,room1 we soon came within hailing distance of a voice expressive of profound relief2 and as we crawled up the sloping passage1 over-heated and breathless with the exertion1 the guide assured us he was most truly thankful to see us again1 as he had never in his life experienced so severe a scare as since it had occurred to him that we had gone beyond the limits of communication without a single match4 ,he also said ,i had been where no lady had ever gone before1 and took satisfaction in the fact that many men have refused to make the venture with a guide4 ,leaving this portion of the cave1 by returning as we came1 through ,suicide ,room1 ,starr ,chamber1 and ,senate ,chamber1 we crawled along the rocks overhanging a narrow fissure1 to reach a ladder at the end1 by which we descended to another part of the ,catacombs4 ,here1 after traveling a long distance over uneven floors covered with sharp crystals1 as were all surfaces1 through large1 low rooms1 and narrow1 crooked passages1 constantly assisting the difficult advance with our hands1 like monkeys1 we finally came to ,the ,grotto1 which is probably the most remarkable room in this very remarkable cave4 ,it is a large room1 with much of the irregular ceiling so low that even the small nephew struck his head severely while turning to warn me1 as he often did1 of threatening inequalities in the floor and light them with his own candle4 ,the crystals here are exceptionally fine1 being very sharp and of unusual size1 besides many of them being double--that is1 pointed at both ends4 ,through this beautiful ceiling there is a percolating drip adding stalactites to the crystal-points and piling stalagmites on the crystal masses below1 varying this with imitation cascades1 mats of small flowers1 and masses of pop-corn4 ,off to one side in a kind of recess there is a depression in the crystal floor filled with clear1 cold water4 ,a glance at the time now showed us to be in danger of failure to meet the train to town1 and consequently1 tired as we were after nine hours of rough travel and much climbing1 it was necessary to make our way out with more speed than comfort1 and we found the weather turning very cold4 ,the cave was carefully locked1 preparations for the train hurriedly made1 the house closed1 and as we left it the train could be heard coming down the caon1 but we arrived at the station first1 though breathless1 and a few minutes later were in ,piedmont1 too tired to properly enjoy a hot venison supper4 ,as to the size of ,crystal ,cave1 it is impossible to make any positive statement2 for as ,mr4 ,mc,bride1 the proprietor1 says1 no survey has yet been made4 ,other persons said that thirty-six miles is the greatest claim made for the combined length of all passages1 and sixteen miles the least1 so it may be wise to accept the lesser number until a survey proves it wrong4 ,the box work in ,crystal ,cave is not of such great abundance as to demand special attention1 but is very beautiful1 and one variety deserves particular mention4 ,these boxes have been formed in dark red sandstone1 and after being emptied of their original contents1 have been completely filled with colorless calcite crystals1 and over this is spread an outer surface of the same crystals tinted a brilliant flame color by red paint-clay having been taken in solution by the crystal forming waters4 ,a specimen of this was a temptation too great to be resisted even in the owner's absence4 ,some of the box work is of such size that a single box may have a capacity equal to that of a bushel measure1 but it is less beautiful than the smaller forms4 ,on the following morning we left ,piedmont1 and having a desire for greater personal knowledge of the ,hills1 took the same train which had taken us to the cave1 and traveled to its western terminus1 ,lead ,city4 ,the interesting scenery makes this a desirable trip for any one visiting the ,hills1 but its beauty is chiefly massed at the ends1 the middle distance being over gradually rising ground1 which is without a counterpart of the rocky caon left behind or more than a suggestion of the high hills yet to come4 ,the special charm of this portion was the magnificent pine forest which covered it until three years ago1 when it was swept by a terrible fire1 from which the settlers escaped with only their lives2 and even that would have been impossible if the railroad company had not kept refuge trains waiting for them just ahead of the flames4 ,the prominent geological feature here is the porphyry dikes1 which are becoming more numerous and more prominent1 and in many places resemble a conspicuous group near ,harney ,peak1 called ,the ,needles4 ,these dykes are of special interest in connection with a study of the caves1 since they are probably of simultaneous origin4 ,the same volcanic movements that caused the violent upheaval of the whole region1 and thrust up molten masses through the strata to form a central core to the ,hills1 must also have rent the nearby regions with fissures through which probably much gas escaped1 and having been further opened and then adorned1 now demand our attention as caves of unique and curious beauty4 ,the approach to ,lead is over the hill-tops with a magnificent distant view1 and the first glimpses of that young city famous for having as a center the ,homestake mine1 the largest gold mine in the world1 are charming4 ,it is situated far down in a valley among the high hills and spreads some distance up the surrounding slopes4 ,the works of the great mine are wonderful1 and visitors welcome to examine whatever they find interesting2 any questions they wish to ask are graciously answered1 although every one is busy4 ,this is not a special favor to the exceptional few1 but the courtesy shown to all4 ,visitors are also welcome to descend into the mine1 but as an attendant is necessary on account of dangers to be avoided1 a permit must be obtained at the office4 ,several other caves have been discovered in the ,black ,hills1 the largest of which is the ,davenport ,cave at ,sturgis4 ,very little exploration has yet been done in it1 but indications are said to be that it will take rank among the large ones4 ,at ,galena1 a new mining town of golden promise1 there is reported to be an ,ice ,cave1 where ice forms at all seasons1 and during the warm weather is a source of comfort and pleasure to the miners4 ,in the evening1 as train time for continuing the homeward journey approached1 the snow storm which began gently early in the afternoon1 grew steadily more severe4 ,a carriage to the depot was not to be had1 as every vehicle in town had gone to the funeral of an old-timer in the ,hills and the return delayed by the storm4 ,the situation could not be regarded as a special pleasure1 but cave hunters learn to accept whatever is and be thankful for the general average4 ,at the last moment1 however1 a team was driven up and permission given us to make use of it4 ,it proved to be the private conveyance of the hotel proprietor1 and the young boy who accompanied us1 his son4 ,our train was on time1 and the ride through the ,hills to their southern limit1 in the falling snow1 was wonderfully beautiful2 but the storm continued for many days and was one of the most severe on record4 ,those persons who have been so unfortunate as to permit themselves to accept a ready made opinion of dangers and roughness to be met with in the more newly settled regions1 might find a tour of the ,hills doubly interesting by making a supplementary study of ,the ,living ,age1 which cannot be so correctly viewed from a distance as is sometimes supposed1 since the specimens exhibited are not always a true average of the strata they are supposed to represent4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,conclusion4 ,after a visit to the marvelous caverns of the ,black ,hills1 much may be added to the pleasure already enjoyed1 through the explanatory activity of the ,yellowstone ,national ,park1 where even the wonderful combinations of beauty and grandeur are by no means the full measure of attraction and charm4 ,here is found evidence to verify theories concerning the caves1 and those theories in turn contribute in no small degree to a satisfactory understanding of the mysteries of geyser action4 ,for scientific study the two regions should be taken together1 since the natural conditions are practically the same1 and the chief difference lies in the stages of development2 the present of the ,park explaining the recent past of the ,hills1 while the present of the ,hills foretells the future of the ,park4 ,it seems that ,nature1 with a full appreciation of the limits and restrictions binding our powers to penetrate certain secrets of an intermittent force1 has in this great western country carefully prepared what might quite properly be termed a progressive course of study1 wherein each locality makes plain a special point that somewhere else appears obscure4 ,as has been said in the preceding chapters1 the two great caves in the ,black ,hills of ,south ,dakota cannot be accounted for by the same methods as are recognized as being responsible for the slow excavation of the best known caves of the ,united ,states4 ,although there is every indication that both these caves have been subject to the action of enormous volumes of water1 there is equally positive evidence that neither was ever the scene of a flowing cave-river4 ,the lowest levels in both show the narrowest fissures and the heaviest deposits of crystal1 by which we infer that the water was held in confinement here1 while all the higher passages or channels bear witness to the water's flow4 ,but many of these channels in ,crystal ,cave1 or indeed we might say1 most of them1 present an unmistakable record of the gauge of the water stage at different periods4 ,during the earlier time1 when the volume of water and consequent pressure were greatest1 frictional motion must have been limited to the main channel connecting with the vent1 and the high gauge of water maintained a fairly uniform degree of heat near its surface4 ,in consequence of these conditions geyser action1 probably1 was constant1 and chemical activity was such that great chambers were formed and then decorated1 as already described1 with wonderful masses of crystal4 ,as the water gauge receded to lower levels the higher chambers became storage basins for water and steam forced up by the pressure from below1 and the time required for these to fill and accumulate sufficient pressure to continue the ejectment1 formed the periods between eruptions after the geyser became intermittent4 ,it was during this stage that the sharp crystals in many of the channels1 now called passages1 were worn down to smooth surfaces2 and later1 when water occupied only the lowest level1 and the great geyser had become reduced to merely a steam vent1 the channels immediately connecting with that level were in their turn subjected to the same smoothing process1 and then all action ceased4 ,as no two of the glorious geysers of the ,yellowstone ,park are alike1 neither do the two great caves of the ,hills indicate that they should be so4 ,the vent-tubing of each is quite unlike that of the other in all the essential governing points of length1 size1 shape1 angle of inclination and power-conserving bends4 ,and the differences extend in an almost equally marked degree throughout the vast and complicated succession of storage chambers and their connecting channels4 ,the small vent of ,wind ,cave shows that the ejected jet was far from being equal to that of the ,crystal ,cave in volume2 but the nearly perpendicular long arm of its tube shows also that its jet attained a much greater height1 even supposing that it should be necessary to make some allowance for a short elbow at the top4 ,dr4 ,hayden's geological party gave much attention to the ,yellowstone ,park while its wonders were new to the world1 and observations were made at various times during the period included between the years #ahfi and #ahgj4 ,the special study1 and full report of the geysers became the duty of ,dr4 ,a4,c4 ,peal1 whose descriptions and conclusions were published in ,u4,s4 ,geological ,survey ,report1 #ahgh1 ,part ,,ii4 ,in the final pages of his report he quotes the leading authorities on geyser action1 and applies the principles of their theories1 according to his own judgment1 to the geysers of the park4 ,since copies of this report are not now easily obtained1 nor even always accessible to the increasing number of personages who visit the park1 it may be well to quote from him some of the theories he discussed and the opinions he expressed4 ,on page #daf1 beginning the chapter with the derivation of the word geyser from the ,icelandic word geysa--to gush1 he continues3 ,we now come to the definition of a geyser4 ,it may be defined to be a periodically eruptive or intermittent hot spring1 from which the water is projected into the air in a fountain-like column4 ,the analogy between geysers and volcanoes has frequently been noticed and the former have often been described as volcanoes which erupt heated water instead of melted lava4 ,we have italicized the word hot in the definition just given1 because springs containing a large amount of gas may simulate geysers4 ,the difference between geysers and ordinary hot springs is not readily explained1 nor even always recognized4 ,the difference between a quiet thermal spring and a geyser in active eruption is very marked1 but between the two there is every grade of action4 ,some geysers appear as quiet springs1 as for instance the ,grand ,geyser during its period of quiescence4 ,others might easily be mistaken for constantly boiling springs1 as in the case of the ,giant ,geyser1 in which the water is constantly in active ebullition4 ,this is true also of the ,strockr of ,iceland4 ,many of the springs1 therefore1 that in the ,yellowstone ,park have been classed as constantly boiling springs may be unsuspected geysers4 ,the ,excelsior ,geyser was not discovered to be a geyser until eight years after the setting aside of the park4 ,almost all constantly boiling springs have periods of increased activity1 and those which spurt a few feet into the air have been classed as pseudo-geysers4 ,it has been noticed that geysers occur where the intensity of volcanic action is decreasing4 ,in the neighborhood of active volcanoes1 such as ,vesuvius1 the temperature appears to be too high1 and the vapor escapes as steam from what are called stufas4 ,when the rocks at the surface are more cooled the water comes forth in liquid form4 ,we will now pass to the various geyser theories that have been proposed by different writers4 ,dr4 ,peal then proceeds to give the theories of ,sir ,j4 ,herschell and ,sir ,george ,mc,kenzie1 but as they are accepted and extended by others1 we may pass on to ,bischof's1 of which ,dr4 ,peal says3 ,very similar to ,mc,kenzie's theory is the one adopted by ,bischof in his ,researches on the ,internal ,heat of the ,globe 7pages #bbg1 #bbh74 ,it is really the theory of ,krug ,von ,nidda1 who examined the geyser in #ahcc4 ,bischof says3 ',he 7,krug ,von ,nidda7 takes it for granted that these hot springs derive their temperature from the aqueous vapors rising from below4 ,when these vapors are able to rise freely in a continued column the water at the different depths must have a constant temperature equal to that at which water would boil under the pressure existing at the respective depths2 hence the constant ebullition of the permanent springs and their boiling heat4 ,if1 on the other hand1 the vapors be prevented by the complicated windings of its channels from rising to the surface2 if1 for example1 they be arrested in caverns1 the temperature in the upper layers of water must necessarily become reduced1 because a large quantity of it is lost by evaporation at the surface1 which cannot be replaced from below4 ,and any circulation of the layers of water at different temperatures1 by reason of their unequal specific gravities1 seems to be very much interrupted by the narrowness and sinuousity of the passage4 ,the intermitting springs of ,iceland are probably caused by the existence of caverns1 in which the vapor is retained by the pressure of the column of water in the channel which leads to the surface4 ,here this vapor collects1 and presses the water in the cavern downward until its elastic force becomes sufficiently great to effect a passage through the column of water which confines it4 ,the violent escape of the vapor causes the thunder-like subterranean sound and the trembling of the earth which precedes each eruption4 ,the vapors do not appear at the surface until they have heated the water to their own temperature4 ',when so much vapor has escaped that the expansive force of that which remains has become less than the pressure of the confining column of water1 tranquility is restored1 and this lasts until such a quantity of vapor is again collected as to produce a fresh eruption4 ,the spouting of the spring is therefore repeated at intervals1 depending on the capacity of the cavern1 the height of the column of water1 and the heat generated below4' ,dr4 ,peal continues3 ,bishof says that the eruptions of the ,geyser and ,strockr agree exactly with this explanation and he accounts for the two distinct classes of eruption observed in the ,geyser as follows3 ',the two distinct classes of eruption in the geyser which we have already mentioned seem to be attributable to two different cavities4 ,a small cavity fills quicker1 and1 therefore1 empties itself more frequently2 a larger one fills slower1 empties itself seldomer1 but with greater violence4' ,bunsen's theory is the next considered and is somewhat similar to ,bischof's but with notable differences4 ,after taking temperatures at different points in the ,geyser tube his first conclusions are that3 7#a7 ,the temperature in the geyser tube increases as we descend4 7#b7 ,at no point does the water in the tube attain the temperature of ebullition which it should have under the pressure to which it is subjected1 but the temperature depends on the time that has elapsed since the last eruption4 ,as a great eruption comes near it approaches the boiling point4 7#c7 ,at the depth of about forty-five feet the difference between the temperature of the water and the calculated boiling point for that pressure is the least4 ,the main point of his theory appears to be that an eruption takes place when the water in the tube reaches the boiling point1 and to account for it1 ,he supposes that the column in the central tube communicates by a long and sinuous channel with some space1 be it what it may1 which is subjected to the action of the direct source of subterranean heat4 ,the temperature gets raised above the boiling point1 due to the pressure1 and a sudden generation of steam is the result4 ,this steam rises in the column of water1 which1 being cooler1 causes it to condense4 ,gradually the heat of the water is raised until the water of the channel must boil1 and the steam therefore cannot condense1 but must accumulate and acquire a gradually increasing tension4 ,the condensation of the bubbles possesses a periodic character1 and to this is due the uplifting of the water in what ,bunsen calls conical water hills1 which are accompanied by the subterranean explosions4 ,prof4 ,comstock is quoted as thinking ,bunsen's theory has not yet been proved adequate to explain the more prominent features of geyser eruptions4 ,nor does it1 in his opinion1 account for all the differences between geysers and hot springs1 and he proposes a structural hypothesis which combines ,bischof's and ,bunsen's theories4 ,this hypothesis is illustrated by a figure in which a reservoir partly filled with water is connected with the surface by a tube having a double curve1 and he explains that the water collecting in the depressed curve should confine the steam1 rising from the reservoir in the other curve until the pressure is sufficient to cause an eruption4 ,his theory of action being that the water in the reservoir remains in equilibrium at a certain level1 and the constant heat fills the space above with vapor1 which heats the water held in the downward bend of the tube1 and that also evolves vapor which fills the balance of the tube to the vent4 ,when the combined pressure of this vapor and water are overcome by the expansion of vapor accumulated above the reservoir1 they are forced out1 and followed by a portion of the water of the reservoir4 ,this theory is in the report of ,captain ,jones on ,northwestern ,wyoming4 ,the last theory cited by ,dr4 ,peal is that of ,s4 ,baring-,gould1 ,who visited the ,iceland geysers in #ahfc1 and thinks that a bent tube is sufficient to explain the action of the ,great ,geyser4 ,he took an iron tube and bent it in an angle of #aaj1 keeping one arm half the length of the other4 ,he filled the tube with water and placed the short arm in the fire4 ,for a moment the surface of the liquid remained quiet1 and then the pipe began to quiver2 a slight overflow took place1 without any sign of ebullition1 and then suddenly1 with a throb1 the whole column was forced high into the air4 ,with a tube1 the long arm of which measured two feet and the bore of which was three-eighths of an inch1 he sent a jet to the height of eighteen feet4 ,steam is generated in the short arm and presses down the water1 causing an overflow until the steam bubble turns the angle1 when it forces out the column in the long arm with incredible violence4 ,dr4 ,peal now goes on to say3 ,of the theories that we have just enumerated1 perhaps no one is adequate to explain all the phenomena of geyser action4 ,bunsen's theory comes nearest to it1 and in the simplest kinds of geysers is a sufficient explanation4 ,the variations and modifications in the geyser tubes and subterranean water passages must undoubtedly be important factors entering into any complete explanation of geyser action4 ,now1 of course1 we can see what the conditions are at the surface1 but in our experiments we can penetrate to a very inconsiderable distance4 ,we have1 therefore1 no data to present on these points1 and investigations of this branch of the subject will have to be carried on in an artificial manner2 that is artificial geysers will have to be constructed1 and various modifications made in the tubes until results are reached analogous to those seen in natural geysers4 ,if water in a glass tube be heated with rapidity from the bottom1 it will be expelled from the tube violently1 and if boiled in a kettle which has a lid and a spout1 either the lid will be blown off or the water will be forced out through the spout4 ,the first case is an illustration1 in part at least1 of ,bunsen's theory1 and the second exemplifies the theories which presuppose the existence of subterranean cavities with tubes at or near the surface4 ,according to the former we must suppose that the layer of rock1 extending seventy-five to seventy-seven feet below the surface1 contains sufficient heat to account for geyseric phenomena2 or else that the geyser tube has some opening1 either at the bottom or on the sides1 by which steam and superheated water have access to it from a considerably greater depth where the temperature is very high4 ,at these depths caverns probably exist4 99 99 99 99 ,that such cavities exist is more than probable4 ,on page #dje ,i have indicated my belief1 that all geysers are originally due to a violent outburst of steam and water1 and under such conditions1 irregular cavities and passages are more likely to be formed than regular tubes4 99 99 ,in view of what we have just written1 ,bunsen's conclusion 7,no4 #b7 would have to be modified somewhat4 ,his conclusion was that at no point in the tube did the water attain the temperature of ebullition which it should have under the pressure to which it is subjected4 ,as far as this relates to the straight tube in which his temperatures were taken1 it may be so2 but if he could have taken temperatures in the side conduit1 ,i have little doubt he would soon have reached a point where the temperature would not only be at the boiling point for that depth but even exceed it4 ,in the ,yellowstone ,park we obtained a number of surface temperatures which were above the boiling point4 ,in the ,great ,geyser of ,iceland1 the mass of water in the tube prevents this condition at the surface1 and when it takes place opposite the aperture an eruption is caused4 ,in the main1 however1 ,i am inclined to accept ,bunsen's theory1 especially as it seems to me to require subterranean cavities in which the water must be heated4 ,whether these are caverns1 enlargements of tubes1 or sinus channels1 appears to me to be of no consequence1 except as the interval or period of the geyser might be affected by the form of the reservoir holding the water4 ,dr4 ,peal has reached conclusions which present an imaginary picture of the interior structure of the great geysers of the ,park1 that bears a striking resemblance to what the two caves of the ,black ,hills prove to be the true conditions2 although it is evident he had in mind caverns of no such vast extent1 nor of so complicated a system of cavities and tubes4 ,he overlooked an important feature1 however1 in not accepting ,professor ,comstock's idea of the tube having a double curve4 ,the double curve is1 or was1 conspicuous in both the caves4 ,unfortunately1 its perfection in ,wind ,cave was necessarily partially sacrificed to make the passage traversable for visitors2 but in describing the enormous labor of opening up the cave1 ,mr4 ,mc,donald showed how an arching crawl had been worked down by blasting1 and the depression beyond filled to raise it to the desired level for securing the present easy passage at the bottom of the main tube1 which is the entrance passage4 ,this double curve in the tube is simply the rough original of the ,s trap of sanitary plumbing4 ,in both caves it is somewhat irregular and deformed1 but the familiar trap is easily recognized4 ,the destruction of one of the ,yellowstone geysers was1 no doubt1 due to the breaking of the ,s4 ,one of the many reasons for establishing military control over the ,park is said to have been the disastrous results following the introduction of a large quantity of soap into the geyser to cause a premature eruption4 ,the impatience of the party was rewarded by an eruption accompanied by explosions that shook the earth for a great distance1 and the geyser has not been seen in action since4 ,dr4 ,peal finds the theories advanced for the generation of steam unsatisfactory and insufficient1 especially in the class of geysers having a long steam period4 ,he says3 7page #dbc7 ,the ,castle ,geyser differs from ,old ,faithful and the ,bee ,hive mainly in the fact that it has a long steam period1 during which the steam pours out or is pushed from the geyser throat with great violence and a terrific noise4 ,there appear to be only two possible explanations of this difference1 viz41 either an accumulation of immense volumes of steam in the ,castle1 or an instantaneous formation of steam throughout the length of the geyser tube4 ,the former1 to our mind1 is untenable1 because it seems impossible that the water1 which is exhausted in fifteen minutes1 should exert enough power to keep down the immense amount of steam that escapes for more than an hour4 ,according to ,bunsen's theory1 it can be readily explained4 ,the relief afforded by the first part of the eruptions allows the superheated water to rise rapidly1 and before it can reach the top or orifice of the tube it is all converted into steam from the top downward with inconceivable rapidity1 and must be forced out with the terrific violence which is noted in the case of the ,castle4 ,on page #bjh we have expressed the opinion that it is the oldest geyser in the region1 and it seems to us that a greater length in the tube1 with a consequent greater supply of water1 will account for the difference between the ,castle and ,old ,faithful1 the latter of which we consider one of the youngest geysers in the ,upper ,geyser ,basin4 ,a study of the ,caves in connection with the active ,geysers indicates that the theory he suggests and then rejects1 is probably the true explanation of the difference between the two kinds of geysers4 ,it seems that the length of the tube must necessarily have more effect on the height of the jet than on the generation of steam2 as after an eruption the tube is hotter than at any other time and therefore the generation of steam in it should be less than usual1 unless the fresh inflow of water was cold4 ,then if the storage cavities are broad but low1 the steam cannot accumulate above the water2 but when the pressure becomes sufficient to force a passage through the tube1 the water and steam are expelled together until the pressure is exhausted4 ,but if the storage chambers are vertical fissures1 as ,wind ,cave illustrates1 vast quantities of steam must accumulate above the water level in the main reservoirs before the pressure can become sufficient to expel the water in the tube1 after which steam alone continues to rush out until the pressure is so relieved that it can no longer force a passage through the water remaining in the trap1 when quiet is restored4 ,by the constant addition of fresh water from the surface1 by percolation or other usual ways of sinking1 the necessary conditions for the generation of steam are maintained with surprising regularity4 ,the differences in the shape and general arrangement of the cavities and tubes of the two caves1 indicate that their action as geysers was very unlike4 ,wind ,cave evidently sent a rather slender column to a great height1 nearly perpendicular1 and the water eruption was followed by a long steam period4 ,crystal ,cave ejected a much larger jet more frequently1 at a low angle of inclination1 the eruption was sooner over1 and was not followed by a steam period of any consequence4 ,thus it can be seen that the caves of the ,black ,hills prove the theories in regard to geyser action in ,yellowstone ,park1 and those theories1 in turn1 prove the past history of the caves4 ,the study of geyser action also shows that the conical or dome shape of some of the cave chambers is not due to the whirl of incoming floods1 as in other regions1 but to jets of water forced up from lower levels4 ,perhaps the finest geyser basin1 and possible cave1 ever in existence was destroyed when the ,grand ,caon of the ,yellowstone became a caon4 ,evidences of the former conditions in control of this gorgeously brilliant scene are neither wanting nor doubtful4 ,steam constantly issues from numerous small vents in the caon walls1 and a field glass reveals miniature geysers in action down in the depth of the caon1 nearly half a mile below the top of the wall2 while the entire caon shows1 in both the color and character of its rocks1 that chemical agencies have wrought changes here that have not been effected in other exposures of similar nature4 ,it seems not improbable that the relation of ,yellowstone ,river to the ,grand ,caon was the same as1 at the present time1 is that of the ,firehole to the ,upper1 ,middle1 and ,lower ,geyser ,basins3 and that an explosion of great force was followed by a general collapse instead of the usual eruption of one of the grandest geysers2 one result being the sudden precipitation of the river into a new1 beautiful1 and totally unexpected channel4 ,after its great leap of two hundred and ninety-seven#f feet at the ,lower ,fall1 the river flows in a brilliant1 narrow line of emerald green1 broken by the white foam of frequent cascades1 between magnificent walls of yellow1 white1 pink1 and red of most vivid hues4 ,,footnotes3 #f ,measurement by the ,hayden ,party4