,transcrib]'s note3 ,footnotes mov$ to end ( text ,! ,art ,,( ,,p]fum]y1 ,,& ,,me?od ,,( ,,obta9+ ,,! ,,odors ,,( ,,plants4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dry+ ,,h\se ,,= ,,h]bs4 ,f ! raft]s ( ! ro( ( ! ,dry+ ,h\se are susp5d$ 9 bun*es all ! h]bs t ! gr[] cultivates4 ,to accel]ate ! desiccation ( rose leaves & o!r petals1 ! ,dry+ ,h\se is fitt$ up ) l>ge cupbo>ds1 :i* are slightly w>m$ ) a convolv+ flue1 heat$ f a fire bel[4 ,! fl[] buds are plac$ ^u trays made ( canvas /ret*$ ^u a frame rack1 be+ n less ?an twelve feet long by f\r feet wide4 ,:5 *>g$ !y are plac$ on %elves 9 ! w>m cupbo>ds till dry4 ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,p]fum]y1 ,,& ,,me?od ,,( ,,obta9+ ,,! ,,odors ,,( ,,plants1 ,,) ,,in/ructions ,,= ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,p]fumes ,,= ,,! ,,h&k]*ief1 ,,sc5t$ ,,p[d]s1 ,,odor\s ,,v9eg>s1 ,,d5tifrices1 ,,pomatums1 ,,cosmetiques1 ,,p]fum$ ,,soap1 ,,etc4 ,,) ,,an ,,app5dix ,,on ,,! ,,colors ,,( ,,fl[]s1 ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,ess5ces1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 ,illu/ration ,,by ,g4,w4 ,,septimus ,,piesse1 ,,au?or ,,( ,,! ,,odors ,,( ,,fl[]s1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,philadelphia3 ,,l9dsay ,,& ,,blaki/on4 #aheg4 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,c4 ,,%]man ,,son1 #ai ,/4 ,james ,/reet4 ,preface4 ,by univ]sal cons5t1 ! physical faculties ( man h be5 divid$ into five s5ses1--see+1 he>+1 t\*+1 ta/+1 & smell+4 ,x is ( matt] p]ta9+ to ! faculty ( ,smell+ t ?is book ma9ly treats4 ,( ! five s5ses1 t ( smell+ is ! lea/ valu$1 &1 z a consequ5ce1 is ! lea/ tutor$2 b we mu/ n conclude f ?is1 our own act1 t x is ( insignificant importance to our welf>e & happ9ess4 ,by neglect+ to tutor ! olfactory n]ve1 we are con/antly l$ to brea! impure air1 & ?us poison ! body by neglect+ ! w>n+ giv5 at ! gate ( ! lungs4 ,p]sons :o use p]fumes are m s5sitive to ! pres5ce ( a vitiat$ atmosph]e ?an ^? :o consid] ! faculty ( smell+ z an almo/ useless gift4 ,9 ! e>ly ages ( ! _w ! use ( p]fumes 0 9 con/ant practice1 & x _h ! high sanction ( ,scriptural au?ority4 ,! patrons ( p]fum]y h always be5 consid]$ ! mo/ civiliz$ & ref9$ p ( ! e>?4 ,if ref9em5t consi/s 9 kn[+ h[ to enjoy ! faculties :i* we possess1 !n mu/ we le>n n only h[ to di/+ui% ! h>mony ( color & =m1 9 ord] to please ! sight1 ! melody ( sweet s\nds to delight ! e>2 ! com=t ( appropriate fabrics to cov] ! body1 & to please ! t\*1 b ! smell+ faculty mu/ be %[n h[ to gratify itself ) ! odorif]\s products ( ! g>d5 & ! =e/4 ,pa?ologically consid]$1 ! use ( p]fumes is 9 ! highe/ degree prophylactic2 ! refre%+ qualities ( ! citr9e odors to an invalid is well kn[n4 ,heal? has (t5 be5 re/or$ :5 life & dea? trembl$ 9 ! balance1 by ! m]e spr9kl+ ( ess5ce ( c$rat 9 a sick *amb]4 ,! comm]cial value ( fl[]s is ( no mean importance to ! weal? ( nations4 ,b1 va/ z is ! consumption ( p]fumes by ! p "u ! rule ( ! ,briti% ,empire1 little has be5 done 9 ,engl& t[>ds ! e/abli%m5t ( fl[]-f>ms1 or ! production ( ! raw odor\s sub/ances 9 dem& by ! manufactur+ p]fum]s ( ,brita92 consequ5tly ne>ly ! :ole are ! produce ( =eign c\ntries4 ,h[ev]1 ,i h e hope t ere long ! subject w attract ! att5tion ( ! ,society ( ,arts1 & favorable results w d\btless foll[4 ,mu* ( ! wa/e l& 9 ,engl&1 & especially 9 ,irel&1 c\ld be v pr(itably employ$ if cultivat$ ) odor-be>+ plants4 ,! climate ( "s ( ! ,briti% colonies especially fits !m = ! production ( odors f fl[]s t require elevat$ temp]ature to br+ !m to p]fection4 ,b = ! lam5t$ dea? ( ,mr4 ,*>les ,piesse1,a ,colonial ,secret>y = ,we/]n ,au/ralia1 ,i h e reason to believe t fl[]-f>ms w\ld h be5 e/abli%$ 9 t colony long ere ! publication ( ?is "w4 ,?\gh ?us p]sonally fru/rat$ 9 adapt+ a new & useful description ( labor to ,briti% ent]prise1 ,i am no less sangu9e ( ! f9al result 9 o!r h&s4 ,mr4 ,kemble1 ( ,jamaica1 has rec5tly s5t to ,engl& "s f9e samples ( ,oil ( ,behn4 ,! ,mor+a1 f :i* x is produc$1 has be5 successfully cultivat$ by him4 ,! ,oil ( ,behn1 be+ a p]fectly inodor\s fat oil1 is a valuable ag5t = extract+ ! odors ( fl[]s by ! mac]ation process4 ,at no di/ant p]iod ,i hope to see1 ei!r at ! ,cry/al ,palace1 ,syd5ham1 at ! ,royal ,botanical ,g>d5s1 ,kew1 or else:]e1 a place to illu/rate ! comm]cial use ( fl[]s--eye-lectures on ! me?ods ( obta9+ ! odors ( plants & _! v>i\s uses4 ,! horticulturi/s ( ,engl&1 be+ g5]ally unacqua9t$ ) ! me?ods ( economiz+ ! sc5ts f ! fl[]s !y cultivate1 entirely lose :at w\ld be a v pr(itable s\rce ( income4 ,= _m ages copp] ore 0 ?r[n ov] ! cliffs into ! sea by ! ,corni% m9]s work+ ! t9 /reams2 h[ mu* weal? 0 ?us ca/ away by ignorance we "k n1 b !re is a p]fect p>allel betwe5 ! old m9]s & ! mod]n g>d5]s4 ,_m read]s ( ! ,g>d5]s' ,*ronicle & ( ! ,annals ( ,ph>macy & ,*emi/ry w recognize 9 ! foll[+ pages mu* matt] t has already pass$ "u _! eyes4 ,to be ( ! s]vice int5d$1 su* matt] mu/ h[ev] h a book =m2 ,i h !re=e collect$ f ! above-m5tion$ p]iodicals all t ,i consid]$ might be useful to ! read]4 ,to ,sir ,wm4 ,hook]1 ,dr4 ,l9dley1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,dick9son1 & ,mr4 ,w4 ,ba/ick1 ,i respectfully t5d] my ?anks = ! assi/ance !y h s freely giv5 :5ev] ,i h _h occasion to seek _! advice4 ,cont5ts4 ,,preface ,,section ,i4 ,,introduction ,,& ,,hi/ory4 ,p]fumes 9 use f ! ,e>lie/ ,p]iods--,orig9 lo/ 9 ! ,dep? ( its ,antiquity--,possibly d]iv$ f ,religi\s ,obs]vances--,inc5se or ,frank9c5se burn$ 9 ,honor ( ! ,div9ities--,e>ly ,*ri/ians put to ,dea? = refus+ to (f] ,inc5se to ,idols--,use ( p]fumes by ! ,greeks & ,romans--,pl9y & ,s5eca obs]ve t "s ( ! luxuri\s ,p sc5t !mselves ,?ree ,times a ,day--,use ( ,inc5se 9 ! ,romi% ,*ur*--,scriptural ,au?ority = ! use ( ,p]fume--,composition ( ! ,holy ,p]fume--,! ,prophet's ,simile--,/4 ,ephraem's ,w--,fragrant ,tap]s--,con/ant9e provides fragrant ,oil to burn at ! ,alt>s--,frangipanni--,trade 9 ! ,ea/ 9 ,p]fume ,drugs--,! ,art ( ,p]fum]y ( little ,di/9ction 9 ,engl&--,solly's admirable ,rem>ks on ,trade ,secrets--,briti% ,horticulturi/s neglect to collect ! ,fragrance ( ! ,fl[]s !y cultivate--,! ,s\? ( ,france ! pr9cipal ,seat ( ! ,art--,engl& not$ = ,lav5d]--,"s ,plants yield m ?an "o ,p]fume--,odor ( ,plants ow+ to a peculi> ,pr9ciple kn[n z ,ess5tial ,oil or ,otto ,,section ,,ii4 ,consumption ( ,p]fum]y--,me?ods ( obta9+ ! ,odors3--,expression1 ,di/illation1 ,mac]ation1 ,absorption ,,section ,,iii4 ,/eam-,/ill--,mac]at+ ,pan--,ottos exhibit$ at ! ,cry/al ,palace ( #ahea--,,simple ,,extracts3--,allspice1 ,almond1 ,artificial ,otto ( ,almonds1 ,anise1 ,balm1 ,balsams1 ,bay1 ,b]gamot1 ,b5zo91 ,c>away1 ,casc>illa1 ,cassia1 ,cassie1 ,c$>1 ,c$rat1 ,c9namon1 ,citron1 ,citronella1 ,clove1 ,dill1 ,eglant9e or ,sweet ,bri]1 ,eld]1 ,f5nel1 ,flag1 ,g]anium1 ,heliotrope1 ,honeysuckle1 ,hov5ia1 ,jasm9e1 ,jonquil1 ,laurel1 ,lav5d]1 ,lemon-grass1 ,lilac1 ,lily1 ,mace1 ,magnolia1 ,m>joram1 ,mead[-sweet1 ,melissa1 ,mignonette1 ,miribane1 ,m9t1 ,myrtle1 ,n]oli1 ,nutmeg1 ,olibanum1 ,orange1 ,orris1 ,palm1 ,pat*\ly1 ,sweet ,pea 7,!ory ( ,odors71 ,p9eapple1 ,p9k1 ,rhodium 7,rose yields two ,odors71 ,rosem>y1 ,sage1 ,santal1 ,sassafras1 ,spike1 ,/orax1 ,syr+a1 ,?yme1 ,tonqu91 ,tub]ose1 ,vanilla1 ,v]b5a or ,v]va91 ,violet1 ,vitiv]t1 ,volkam]ia1 ,wallfl[]1 ,w9t]-gre5--,duty on ,ess5tial ,oils--,quantity import$--,/ati/ics1 c4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,,animal ,,p]fumes4 ,amb]gris--,civet--,musk ,,section ,v4 ,,smell+ ,,salts3--,ammonia1 ,pre/on ,salts1 ,inexhau/ible ,salts1 ,eau de ,luce1 ,sal ,volatile ,,acetic ,,acid ,,& ,,its ,,use ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4--,aromatic ,v9eg>1 ,h5ry's ,v9eg>1 ,v9aigre a la ,rose1 ,f\r ,?ieves' ,v9eg>1 ,hygi5ic ,v9eg>1 ,violet ,v9eg>1 ,toilet ,v9eg>1 ,v9aigre de ,cologne ,,section ,,vi4 ,,b\quets ,,& ,,nosegays4 ,propos$ ,use ( ! ,t]m ,otto to d5ote ! odorif]\s ,pr9ciple ( ,plants ,,comp\nd ,,odors3--,! ,alhambra ,p]fume--,! ,bosphorus ,b\quet--,b\quet d',am\r--,b\quet des ,fleurs du ,val d',&orre--,buck+ham ,palace ,b\quet--,delices--,! ,c\rt ,nosegay--,eau de ,*ypre--,! ,empress ,eug5ie's ,nosegay--,e/]hazy--,ess ,b\quet--,eau de ,cologne4 7,fr5* & ,engli% ,_s47 ,fl[]s ( ,er9--,royal ,hunt ,b\quet--,extract ( ,fl[]s--,! ,gu>ds' ,b\quet--,italian ,nosegay--,engli% ,jockey ,club--,fr5* ,jockey ,club4 7,diff]5ce ( ! ,odor ( ,engli% & ,fr5* ,p]fumes due to ! ,_s ( ,grape & ,corn ,_s47 ,a ,japanese ,p]fume--,! ,kew ,g>d5 ,nosegay--,millefleurs--,millefleurs et ,lav5d]--,delcroix's ,lav5d]--,m>e*ale--,m\ssela9e--,b\quet de ,montpelli]--,caprice de la ,mode--,may ,fl[]s--,neptune1 or ,naval ,nosegay--,b\quet ( all ,nations--,isle ( ,wight ,b\quet--,b\quet du ,roi--,b\quet de la ,re9e ,victoria--,rondeletia4 7,odors prop]ly bl5d$ produce new ,fragrances47 ,b\quet ,royal--,suave--,spr+ ,fl[]s--,tulip ,nosegay--,! ,wood ,violet--,w9dsor ,ca/le ,b\quet--,ya*t ,club ,nosegay ,,section ,,vii4 ,! anci5t ,p]fumes 7 only odorif]\s ,gums--,ab/a9+ f ! ,use ( ,p]fumes a ,sign ( ,humiliation--,! ,vase at ,alnwick ,ca/le--,sa*et ,p[d]s--,sa*et au ,*ypre--,sa*et a la ,frangipanne--,heliotrope ,sa*et--,lav5d] ,sa*et--,sa*et a la ,m>e*ale--,m\ssela9e--,millefleur--,port ugal ,sa*et--,pat*\ly ,sa*et--,pot ,p\rri--,olla ,podrida--,rose ,sa*et--,santal-wood ,sa*et--,sa*et 7)\t a "n7--,v]va9 ,sa*et--,vitiv]t--,violet ,sa*et--,p]fum$ ,lea!r--,russia ,lea!r--,peau d',espagne--,p]fum$ ,lett] ,pap]--,p]fum$ ,book-m>k]s--,cassolettes1 & ,pr9tani]s ,pa/ils--,! ,c5s]--,vase 9 ! ,briti% ,museum--,me?od ( us+ ! ,c5s]--,inc5se = ,alt> ,s]vice--,yell[ ,pa/ils--,dr4 ,p>is's ,pa/ils--,p]fum]'s ,pa/ils--,piesse's ,pa/ils--,fumigation--,! ,p]fume ,lamp--,inc&esc5t ,plat9um--,eau a ,brul]--,eau p\r ,brul]--,fumigat+ ,pap]--,p]fum+ ,spills--,odorif]\s ,light]s ,,section ,,viii4 ,,p]fum$ ,,soap4 ,p]fum$ ,soap--,anci5t ,orig9 ( ,soap--,e>ly ,records ( ! ,soap ,trade 9 ,engl&--,p]fum]s n ,soap ,mak]s--,remelt+--,prim>y ,soaps--,curd ,soap--,oil ,soap--,ca/ile ,soap--,m>9e ,soap--,yell[ ,soap--,palm ,soap--,excise ,duty on ,soap--,fig ,s(t ,soap--,naples ,s(t ,soap--,! remelt+ ,process--,soap cutt+--,soap /amp+--,sc5t$ ,soaps ,almond ,soap--,camphor ,soap--,honey ,soap--,:ite ,w9dsor ,soap--,br[n ,w9dsor ,soap--,s& ,soap--,full]'s ,e>? ,soap--,sc5t+ ,soaps ,hot--,sc5t+ ,soaps ,cold--,color$ ,soaps3--,r$1 ,gre51 ,blue1 ,br[n ,soaps--,otto ( ,rose ,soap--,tonqu9 ,musk ,soap--,orange-,fl[] ,soap--,santal-wood ,soap--,sp]maceti ,soap--,citron ,soap--,frangipanne ,soap--,pat*\ly ,soap--,s(t or ,pota% ,soaps--,saponace\s ,cream ( ,almonds--,soap ,p[d]s--,rypophagon ,soap--,ambrosial ,cream--,transp>5t s(t ,soap--,transp>5t h>d ,soap--,m$icat$ ,soaps--,junip] ,t> ,soap--,iod9e ,soap--,sulphur ,soap--,brom9e ,soap--,creosote ,soap--,m]curial ,soap--,croton ,oil ,soap--,_! ,use 9 ,cutane\s ,diseases ,,section ,,ix4 ,,emuls9es4 ,=m ,emulsions or ,milks :5 mix$ ) ,wat]--,prone to ,*ange--,am&9e--,oliv9e--,honey & ,almond ,pa/e--,pure ,almond ,pa/e--,almond ,meal--,pi/a*io ,nut ,meal--,jasm9e ,emulsion--,violet ,emulsion ,,section ,x4 ,,milks ,,or ,,emulsions4 ,liebig's notice ( ,almond ,milk--,milk ( ,roses--,milk ( ,almonds--,milk ( ,eld]--,milk ( ,d&elion--,milk ( ,cucumb]--,ess5ce ( ,cucumb]--,milk ( ,pi/a*io ,nuts--,lait ,virg9al--,extract ( ,eld] ,fl[]s ,,section ,,xi4 ,,cold ,,cream4 ,manipulation--,cold ,cream ( ,almonds--,violet ,cold ,cream--,imitation ,violet ,cold ,cream--,cold ,cream ( v>i\s ,fl[]s--,camphor ,cold ,cream--,cucumb] ,cold ,cream--,piv]'s ,pomade ( ,cucumb]--,pomade ,div9e--,almond ,balls--,camphor ,balls--,camphor ,pa/e--,glyc]9e ,balsam--,rose ,lip ,salve--,:ite ,lip ,salve--,common ,lip ,salve ,,section ,,xii4 ,,pomades ,,& ,,oils4 ,pomatum1 z its "n implies1 orig9ally made ) ,apples--,sc5tless ,grease--,enfleurage & ,mac]ation process--,acacia1 or ,cassie ,pomade--,b5zo9 ,pomade & ,oil--,vanilla ,oil & ,pomade--,pomade call$ ,be>'s ,grease--,circassian ,cream--,balsam ( ,fl[]s--,cry/alliz$ ,oils--,ca/or ,oil ,pomatum--,balsam ( ,n]oli--,m>r[ ,cream--,m>r[ ,pomatum--,violet ,pomatum--,pomade ,d\ble1 ,millefleurs--,pomade a la ,heliotrope--,huile ,antique--,philocome--,pomade ,hongroise--,h>d or ,/ick ,pomatums--,black & ,br[n ,cosmetique ,,section ,,xiii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,& ,,depilatories4 ,pa9t+ ! ,face univ]sal among ! ,wom5 ( ,egypt--,kohhl1 ! ,smoke ( ,gum ,labdanum1 us$ by ! ,girls ( ,greece to color ! ,la%es & ,sockets ( ! ,eye--,turki% ,hair ,dye--,ra/ikopetra ,dye--,li?>ge ,dye--,silv] ,dye--,hair ,dyes1 ) ,mordant--,inodor\s ,dye--,br[n & ,black ,hair ,dye--,liquid ,lead ,dye--,depilatory1 ,rusma ,,section ,,xiv4 ,,absorb5t ,,p[d]s4 ,violet ,p[d]--,rose ,face ,p[d]--,p]le ,p[d]--,liquid ,blanc = ,!atrical ,use--,calc9$ ,talc--,r\ge & ,r$ ,pa9ts--,bloom ( ,roses--,c>m9e ,toilet ,r\ge--,c>?amus ,fl[]s--,p9k ,sauc]s--,crepon ,r\ge ,,section ,,xv4 ,,too? ,,p[d]s ,,& ,,m\? ,,wa%es4 ,mialhi's ,too? ,p[d]--,camphorat$ ,*alk--,qu99e ,too? ,p[d]--,prep>$ ,*>coal--,p]uvian ,b>k ,p[d]--,homoeopa?ic ,*alk--,cuttle-,fi% ,p[d]--,borax & ,myrrh--,f>9a ,piesse's ,d5tifrice--,rose ,too? ,p[d]--,opiate ,pa/e--,violet ,m\? ,wa%--,eau ,botot--,botanic ,/yptic--,t9cture ( ,myrrh & ,borax--,myrrh ) ,eau de ,cologne--,camphorat$ ,eau de ,cologne ,,section ,,xvi4 ,,hair ,,wa%es4 ,rosem>y ,hair ,wa%--,a!nian ,wat]--,vegetable or ,botanic ,hair ,wa%--,a/r+5t ,extract ( ,roses & ,rosem>y--,saponace\s ,wa%--,egg ,julep--,b&ol9es--,rose & ,almond ,b&ol9e ,cont5ts ( ,app5dix4 ,manufacture ( ,glyc]9e ,te/ = ,alcohol 9 ,ess5tial ,oils ,detection ( ,poppy & o!r dry+ ,oils 9 ,almond & ,olive ,oil ,color+ matt] ( ,volatile ,oils ,artificial ,prep>ation ( ,otto ( ,c9namon ,detection ( ,spike ,oil & ,turp5t9e 9 ,lav5d] ,oil ,! ,orange ,fl[] ,wat]s ( ,comm]ce ,conc5trat$ ,eld] ,wat] ,,arnall on ,spirits ( ,w9e ,purification ( ,spirits by ,filtration ,,cobb on ,otto ( ,lemons ,,ba/ick on ,b5zoic ,acid ,on ! ,color+ matt]s ( ,fl[]s ,blea*+ ,bees' ,wax ,*emical ,exam9ation ( ,naples ,soap ,manufacture ( ,soap ,h[ to ,asc]ta9 ! ,comm]cial ,value ( ,soap ,on ! ,natural ,fats ,p]fumes z ,prev5tives ( ,m\ld9ess ,,ba/ick on ,fusel ,oil ,,ba/ick',s ,p9e ,apple ,flavor ,,wagn]',s ,ess5ce ( ,qu9ce ,prep>ation ( ,rum-e!r ,artificial ,fruit ess5ces ,volatile ,oil ( ,gaul!ria ,application ( ,*emi/ry to ,p]fum]y ,correspond5ce f ! ,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,arts ,quantities ( ,ottos yield$ by v>i\s ,plants ,fr5* & ,engli% ,weights & ,measures comp>$ ,illu/rations4 ,dry+ ,h\se1 ,mit*am1 ,surrey1 7,frontispiece47 ,smell+1 f ! ,dresd5 ,gall]y1 7,vignette47 ,pipette1 to draw (f small ,portions ( ,otto f ,wat] ,tap ,funnel = sep>at+ ,ottos f ,wat]s1 & ,spirits f ,oil ,! ,almond ,/yrax ,b5zo9 ,cassie ,buds ,! ,clove ,! ,jasm9e ,! ,orange ,! ,pat*\ly ,plant ,santal-,wood ,tonqu9 ,vanilla ,vitiv]t ,civet ,cat ,musk ,pod ,musk ,de] ,! ,c5s] ,p]fume ,lamp ,slab ,soap ,gauge ,b>r+ ,gauge ,squ>+ ,gauge ,soap ,scoops ,soap ,press ,m\lds ,soap ,plane ,oil ,runn] ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,p]fum]y4 ,,introduction ,,& ,,hi/ory4 ,,section ,i4 ,by ,nature's swift & secret work+ h& ,! g>d5 gl[s1 & fills ! lib]al air ,) lavi% odors4 ,!re let me draw ,e!real s\l1 !re dr9k reviv+ gales1 ,pr(usely brea?+ f ! spicy groves ,& vales ( fragrance4--,,?omson4 ,among ! num]\s gratifications d]iv$ f ! cultivation ( fl[]s1 t ( re>+ !m = ! sake ( _! p]fumes /&s pre-em95t4 ,x is prov$ f ! olde/ records1 t p]fumes h be5 9 use f ! e>lie/ p]iods4 ,! orig9 ( ?is1 l t ( _m o!r arts1 is lo/ 9 ! dep? ( its antiquity2 ?\gh x _h its rise1 no d\bt1 9 religi\s obs]vances4 ,among ! nations ( antiquity1 an (f]+ ( p]fumes 0 reg>d$ z a tok5 ( ! mo/ pr(\nd respect & homage4 ,inc5se1 or ,frank9c5se1 :i* exudes by incision & dries z a gum1 f ,arbor-?urif]a1 0 =m]ly burnt 9 ! temples ( all religions1 9 honor ( ! div9ities t 7 !re ador$4 ,_m ( ! primitive ,*ri/ians 7 put to dea? because !y w\ld n (f] inc5se to idols4 ,( ! use ( ^! luxuries by ! ,greeks1 & aft]w>ds by ! ,romans1 ,pl9y & ,s5eca gives mu* in=mation respect+ p]fume drugs1 ! me?od ( collect+ !m1 & ! prices at :i* !y sold4 ,oils & p[d] p]fum]y 7 mo/ lavi%ly us$1 = ev5 ?ree times a day did "s ( ! luxuri\s p ano9t & sc5t !mselves1 c>ry+ _! preci\s p]fumes ) !m to ! ba?s 9 co/ly & elegant boxes call$ ,,n>!cia4 ,9 ! ,romi% ,*ur* inc5se is us$ 9 _m c]emonies1 & p>ticul>ly at ! solemn fun]als ( ! hi]>*y1 & o!r p]sonages ( exalt$ rank4 ,pl9y makes a note ( ! tree f :i* frank9c5se is procur$1 & c]ta9 passages 9 8 works indicate t dri$ fl[]s 7 us$ 9 8 "t by way ( p]fume1 & t !y 71 z n[1 mix$ ) spices1 a comp\nd :i* ! mod]n p]fum] calls pot-p\rri1 us$ = sc5t+ ap>tm5ts1 & g5]ally plac$ 9 "s ornam5tal ,vase4 ,x 0 n uncommon among ! ,egyptian ladies to c>ry ab\t ! p]son a little p\* ( odorif]\s gums1 z is ! case to ! pres5t day among ! ,*9ese1 & to we> beads made ( sc5t$ wood4 ,! bdellium m5tion$ by ,moses 9 ,g5esis is a p]fum+ gum1 resembl+ frank9c5se1 if n id5tical ) x4 ,sev]al passages 9 ,exodus prove ! use ( p]fumes at a v e>ly p]iod among ! ,hebrews4 ,9 ! ?irtie? *apt] ( ,exodus ! ,"l said unto ,moses3 #a4 ,& ?\ %alt make an alt> to burn inc5se ^u2 ( ,%ittim wood %alt ?\ make x4 #g4 ,& ,a>on %all burn !reon sweet inc5se e morn+2 :5 he dresse? ! lamps he %all burn inc5se ^u x4 #cd4 ,take unto !e sweet spices1 /acte1 & ony*a1 & galbanum2 ^! sweet spices ) pure frank9c5se3 ( ea* %all !re be a l weight4 #ce4 ,& ?\ %alt make x a p]fume1 a confection aft] ! art ( ! apo!c>y1 temp]$ toge!r pure & holy4 #cf4 ,& ?\ %alt beat "s ( x v small1 & put ( x be=e ! te/imony 9 ! tab]nacle ( ! congregation1 :]e ,i w meet ) !e2 x %all be unto y mo/ holy4 #cg4 ,& z = ! p]fume :i* ?\ %alt make1 ye %all n make to y\rselves accord+ to ! composition !re(2 x %all be unto !e holy = ! ,"l4 #ch4 ,:osoev] %all make l unto t to smell !reto1 %all ev5 be cut (f f 8 p4 ,x 0 f ?is religi\s cu/om1 ( employ+ inc5se 9 ! anci5t temples1 t ! royal prophet drew t beautiful simile ( 81 :5 he petition$ t 8 pray]s might asc5d be=e ! ,"l l inc5se1 ,luke #a3aj4 ,x 0 :ile all ! multitude 0 pray+ )\t1 at ! h\r ( inc5se1 t !re appe>$ to ,za*>y an angel ( ! ,"l1 /&+ on ! "r side ( ! alt> ( inc5se4 ,t ! nations atta*$ a mean+ n only ( p]sonal rev]5ce1 b also ( religi\s homage1 to an (f]+ ( inc5se1 is demon/rable f ! in/ance ( ! ,magi1 :o1 hav+ fall5 d[n to adore ! new-born ,jesus1 & recogniz$ 8 ,div9ity1 pres5t$ ,him ) gold1 myrrh & frank9c5se4 ,! primitive ,*ri/ians imitat$ ! example ( ! ,jews1 & adopt$ ! use ( inc5se at ! celebration ( ! ,liturgy4 ,/4 ,ephraem1 a fa!r ( ! ,syriac ,*ur*1 direct$ 9 8 w t no aromatic p]fumes %\ld be be/[$ ^u him at 8 fun]al1 b t ! spices %\ld r be giv5 to ! sanctu>y4 ,! use ( inc5se 9 all ! ,ori5tal *ur*es is p]petual1 & almo/ daily2 nor d any ( !m ev] celebrate _! ,liturgy )\t x1 unless compell$ by necessity4 ,! ,coptic1 z well z o!r ,ea/]n ,*ri/ians1 obs]ve ! same c]emonial z ! ,lat9 ,*ur* 9 inc5s+ _! alt>1 ! sacr$ vessels1 & ecclesia/ical p]sonages4--,,dr4 ,,rock',s ,hi]urgia4 ,p]fumes 7 us$ 9 ! ,*ur* s]vice1 n only "u ! =m ( inc5se1 b also mix$ 9 ! oil & wax = ! lamps & lights comm&$ to be burn$ 9 ! h\se ( ! ,"l4 ,! brilliancy & fragrance :i* 7 (t5 %$ ar\nd a m>tyr's sepul*re1 at ! celebration ( 8 fe/ival1 by multitudes ( lamps & tap]s1 f$ ) aromatics1 h be5 notic$ by ,/4 ,paul9us3-- ,) cr[d$ lamps are ^! bright alt>s cr[n$1 ,& wax5 tap]s1 %$d+ p]fume r\nd ,f fragrant wicks1 beam calm a sc5t$ ray1 ,to gladd5 night1 & joy e'en radiant day4 ,,dr4 ,,rock',s ,hi]urgia4 ,con/ant9e ! ,great provid$ fragrant oils1 to be burn$ at ! alt>s ( ! great] *ur*es 9 ,rome2 & ,/4 ,paul9us1 ( ,nola1 a writ] ( ! end ( ! f\r? & beg9n+ ( ! fif? c5tury1 tells u h[1 9 8 times1 wax tap]s 7 made = *ur* use1 s z to %$ fragrance z !y burn$3-- ,lum9a c]ates adol5tur odora papyris4 ,a p]fume 9 common use1 ev5 to ?is day1 0 ! inv5tion ( "o ( ! e>lie/ ( ! ,roman nobles1 nam$ ,frangipani1 & /ill be>s 8 "n2 x is a p[d]1 or sa*et1 compos$ ( e kn[n spice1 9 equal proportions1 to :i* is add$ gr\nd iris or orris root1 9 weight equal to ! :ole1 ) "o p] c5t4 ( musk or civet4 ,a liquid ( ! same "n1 inv5t$ by 8 gr&son ,m]cutio ,frangipani1 is also 9 common use1 prep>$ by dige/+ ! ,frangipane p[d] 9 rectifi$ spirits1 :i* dissolves out ! fragrant pr9ciples4 ,?is has ! m]it ( be+ ! mo/ la/+ p]fume made4 ,! trade = ! ,ea/ 9 p]fume-drugs caus$ _m a vessel to spread its sails to ! ,r$ ,sea1 & _m a camel to plod ov] t tract :i* gave to ,greece & ,syria _! importance z m>kets1 & vitality to ! rocky city ( ,petra4 ,s\!rn ,italy 0 n long ere x occupi$ itself 9 m9i/]+ to ! luxury ( ! weal?y1 by manufactur+ sc5t$ ungu5ts & p]fumes4 ,s num]\s 7 ! ,,ungu5t>ii1 or p]fum]s1 t !y are said to h fill$ ! great /reet ( anci5t ,capua4--,,h(mann4 ,z an art1 9 ,engl&1 p]fum]y has atta9$ little or no di/9ction4 ,?is has aris5 f ^? :o foll[ x z a trade1 ma9ta9+ a my/]i\s secrecy ab\t _! processes4 ,no manufacture c ev] become great or important to ! community t is c>ri$ on "u a veil ( my/]y4 ,on ! subject ( trade my/]y ,i w only obs]ve1 t ,i am conv9c$ t x w\ld be f> m to ! int]e/ ( manufactur]s if !y 7 m will+ to pr(it by ! exp]i5ce ( o!rs1 & less fe>ful & jeal\s ( ! suppos$ secrets ( _! craft4 ,x is a great mi/ake to ?9k t a successful manufactur] is "o :o has c>efully pres]v$ ! secrets ( 8 trade1 or t peculi> modes ( effect+ simple ?+s1 processes unkn[n 9 o!r factories1 & my/]ies beyond ! compreh5sion ( ! vulg>1 are 9 any way ess5tial to skill z a manufactur]1 or to success z a trad]4--,,pr(essor ,,solly4 ,if ! horticulturi/s ( ,engl& 7 in/ruct$ h[ to collect ! odors ( fl[]s1 a new bran* ( manufacture w\ld spr+ up to vie ) our neighbors' skill 9 x across ! ,*annel4 ,( our five s5ses1 t ( ,,smell+ has be5 treat$ ) comp>ative indiff]5ce4 ,h[ev]1 z k progresses1 ! v>i\s faculties ) :i* ! ,creator has ?\ght prop] 9 8 wisdom to end[ man w become develop$1 & ! faculty ( ,smell+ w meet ) its %>e ( tuition z well z ,sight1 ,he>+1 ,t\*1 & ,ta/e4 ,fl[]s yield p]fumes 9 all climates1 b ^? gr[+ 9 ! w>m] latitudes are mo/ prolific 9 _! odor1 :ile ^? f ! cold] are ! sweete/4 ,hook]1 9 8 travels 9 ,icel&1 speaks ( ! delightful fragrance ( ! fl[]s 9 ! valley ( ,sk>d%eidi2 we "k t w9t]-gre51 violets1 & primroses are f\nd "h1 & ! wild ?yme1 9 great abundance4 ,mr4 ,l\is ,piesse1 9 company ) ,capta9 ,/urt1 explor+ ! wild regions ( ,s\? ,au/ralia1 writes3 ,! ra9s h clo!d ! e>? ) a gre5 z beautiful z a ,%rop%ire mead[ 9 ,may1 & ) fl[]s1 too1 z sweet z an ,engli% violet2 ! pure :ite anemone resembles x 9 sc5t4 ,! ,yell[ ,wattle1 :5 9 fl[]1 is spl5did1 & emits a mo/ fragrant odor4 ,?\gh _m ( ! f9e/ p]fumes come f ! ,ea/ ,indies1 ,ceylon1 ,mexico1 & ,p]u1 ! ,s\? ( ,europe is ! only real g>d5 ( utility to ! p]fum]4 ,grasse & ,nice are ! pr9cipal seats ( ! art2 f _! geographical position1 ! gr[]1 )9 comp>atively %ort di/ances1 has at comm& t *ange ( climate be/ fitt$ to br+ to p]fection ! plants requir$ = 8 trade4 ,on ! seacoa/ 8 ,cassiae gr[s )\t fe> ( fro/1 "o night ( :i* w\ld de/roy all ! plants = a season2 :ile1 ne>] ! ,alps1 8 violets are f\nd sweet] ?an if gr[n 9 ! w>m] situations1 :]e ! orange tree & mignionette bloom to p]fection4 ,engl& c claim ! sup]iority 9 ! gr[? ( lav5d] & pepp]m9t2 ! ess5tial oils extract$ f ^! plants gr[n at ,mit*am1 9 ,surrey1 realize eight times ! price 9 ! m>ket ( ^? produc$ 9 ,france or else:]e1 & are fully wor? ! diff]5ce = delicacy ( odor4 ,! odors ( plants reside 9 diff]5t p>ts ( !m1 sometimes 9 ! roots1 z 9 ! iris & vitiv]t2 ! /em or wood1 9 c$> & s&al2 ! leaves1 9 m9t1 pat*\ly1 & ?yme2 ! fl[]1 9 ! roses & violets2 ! se$s 9 ! ,tonqu9 bean & c>away2 ! b>k1 9 c9namon1 c4 ,"s plants yield m ?an "o odor1 :i* are q di/9ct & *>act]i/ic4 ,! orange tree1 = in/ance1 gives ?ree--f ! leaves "o call$ petit gra92 f ! fl[]s we procure n]oli2 & f ! r9d ( ! fruit1 ess5tial oil ( orange1 ess5ce ( ,portugal4 ,on ?is acc\nt1 p]haps1 ?is tree is ! mo/ valuable ( all to ! op]ative p]fum]4 ,! fragrance or odor ( plants is ow+1 9 ne>ly all cases1 to a p]fectly volatile oil1 ei!r conta9$ 9 small vessels1 or sacs )9 !m1 or g5]at$ f "t to "t1 dur+ _! life1 z :5 9 blossom4 ,"s few exude1 by incision1 odorif]\s gums1 z b5zo91 olibanum1 myrrh1 c42 o!rs give1 by ! same act1 :at are call$ balsams1 :i* appe> to be mixtures ( an odor\s oil & an inodor\s gum4 ,"s ( ^! balsams are procur$ 9 ! c\ntry to :i* ! plant is indig5\s by boil+ x 9 wat] = a "t1 /ra9+1 & !n boil+ aga91 or evaporat+ x d[n till x assumes ! consi/5cy ( treacle4 ,9 ?is latt] way is balsam ( ,p]u procur$ f ! ,myroxylon p]uif]um1 & ! balsam ( ,tolu f ! ,myroxylon toluif]um4 ,?\gh _! odors are agreeable1 !y are n mu* appli$ 9 p]fum]y = h&k]*ief use1 b by "s !y are mix$ ) soap1 & 9 ,engl& !y are valu$ m = _! m$ic9al prop]ties ?an = _! fragrance4 ,,section ,,ii4 ,7 n summ]'s di/illations left ,a liquid prison]1 p5t 9 walls ( glass1 ,beauty's effect ) beauty 7 b]eft1 ,nor x1 nor no remembrance :at x 02 ,b fl[]s di/ill$1 ?\gh !y ) w9t] meet1 ,leese b _! %[1 _! sub/ance /ill lives sweet4 ,,%akspe>e4 ,! ext5sive fl[] f>ms 9 ! neighborhood ( ,nice1 ,grasse1 ,montpelli]1 & ,cannes1 9 ,france1 at ,adrianople 7,turkey 9 ,asia71 at ,br\ssa & ,uslak 7,turkey 9 ,asia71 & at ,mit*am1 9 ,engl&1 9 a measure indicate ! comm]cial importance ( t bran* ( *emi/ry call$ p]fum]y4 ,briti% ,india & ,europe consume annually1 at ! v l[e/ e/imate1 #aej1jjj gallons ( p]fum$ spirits1 "u v>i\s titles1 su* z eau de ,cologne1 ess5ce ( lav5d]1 esprit de rose1 c4 ,! art ( p]fum]y does n1 h[ev]1 conf9e itself to ! production ( sc5ts = ! h&k]*ief & ba?1 b ext5ds to imp>t+ odor to inodor\s bodies1 su* z soap1 oil1 />*1 & grease1 :i* are consum$ at ! toilette ( fa%ion4 ,"s idea ( ! comm]cial importance ( ?is art may be =m$1 :5 we /ate t "o ( ! l>ge p]fum]s ( ,grasse & ,p>is employs annually #hj1jjj lbs4 ( orange fl[]s1 #fj1jjj lbs4 ( cassia fl[]s1 #ed1jjj lbs4 ( rose-leaves1 #cb1jjj lbs4 ( jasm9e blossoms1 #cb1jjj lbs4 ( violets1 #bj1jjj lbs4 ( tub]euse1 #af1jjj lbs4 ( lilac1 besides rosem>y1 m9t1 lemon1 citron1 ?yme1 & o!r odor\s plants 9 l>ge proportion4 ,9 fact1 ! quantity ( odorif]\s sub/ances us$ 9 ?is way is f> beyond ! conception ( ^? ev5 us$ to ab/ract /ati/ics4 ,to ! *emical philosoph]1 ! /udy ( p]fum]y op5s a book z yet unread2 = ! practical p]fum]1 on 8 laboratory %elves1 exhibits _m r>e ess5tial oils1 su* z ess5tial oil ( ! fl[] ( ! ,acacia f>nesiana1 ess5tial oil ( violets1 tub]euse1 jasm9e1 & o!rs1 ! compositions ( :i* h yet to be det]m9$4 ,! exquisite pleasure d]iv$ f smell+ fragrant fl[]s w\ld almo/ in/9ctively induce man to attempt to sep>ate ! odorif]\s pr9ciple f !m1 s z to h ! p]fume :5 ! season d5ies ! fl[]s4 ,?us we f9d ! al*emi/s ( old1 tortur+ ! plants 9 e way _! inv5tion c\ld devise = ?is end2 & x is on _! exp]im5ts t ! :ole art ( p]fum]y has be5 re>$4 ,)\t recapitulat+ ^? facts :i* may be f\nd diffus$ ?r\gh ne>ly all ! old au?ors on m$ical botany1 *emi/ry1 ph>macy1 & works ( ?is "*1 f ! "t ( ,p>acelsus to ,celn>t1 we may /ate at once ! mode ( op]ation adopt$ by ! practical p]fum] ( ! pres5t day = prep>+ ! v>i\s extracts or ess5ces1 wat]s1 oils1 pomades1 c41 us$ 9 8 call+4 ,! processes are divid$ into f\r di/9ct op]ations2 viz4-- #a4 ,expression2 #b4 ,di/illation2 #c4 ,mac]ation2 #d4 ,absorption4 #a4 ,expression is only adopt$ :]e ! plant is v prolific 9 its volatile or ess5tial oil1--i4e4 its odor2 su*1 = in/ance1 z is f\nd 9 ! pellicle or out] peel ( ! orange1 lemon1 & citron1 & a few o!rs4 ,9 ^! cases1 ! p>ts ( ! plant conta9+ ! odorif]\s pr9ciple are put sometimes 9 a clo? bag1 & at o!rs by !mselves into a press1 & by m]e me*anical =ce x is squeez$ out4 ,! press is an iron vessel ( imm5se /r5g?1 v>y+ 9 size f six in*es 9 diamet]1 & twelve deep1 & upw>ds1 to conta9 "o hundr$ weight or m2 x has a small ap]ture at ! bottom to all[ ! express$ mat]ial to run = collection2 9 ! int]ior is plac$ a p]=at$ false bottom1 & on ?is ! sub/ance to be squeez$ is plac$1 cov]$ ) an iron plate fitt+ ! int]ior2 ?is is connect$ ) a p[]ful screw1 :i*1 be+ turn$1 =ces ! sub/ance s closely toge!r1 t ! little vessels conta9+ ! ess5tial oils are bur/1 & x ?us escapes4 ,! common t9cture press is inde$ a model ( su* an in/rum5t4 ,! oils :i* are ?us collect$ are contam9at$ ) wat]y extracts1 :i* exudes at ! same "t1 & f :i* x has to be sep>at$2 ?is x does by itself 9 a measure1 by /&+ 9 a quiet place1 & x is !n p\r$ (f & /ra9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,pipette to draw (f small portions ( otto f wat]4 #b4 ,di/illation4--,! plant1 or "p ( x1 :i* conta9s ! odorif]\s pr9ciple1 is plac$ 9 an iron1 copp]1 or glass pan1 v>y+ 9 size f t capable ( hold+ f "o to tw5ty gallons1 & cov]$ ) wat]2 to ! pan a dome-%ap$ lid is fitt$1 t]m9at+ ) a pipe1 :i* is twi/$ corkscrew fa%ion1 & fix$ 9 a bucket1 ) ! end peep+ out l a tap 9 a b>rel4 ,! wat] 9 ! /ill--= su* is ! "n ( ! app>atus--is made to boil2 & hav+ no o!r exit1 ! /eam mu/ pass ?r\gh ! coil$ pipe2 :i*1 be+ surr\nd$ ) cold wat] 9 ! bucket1 cond5ses ! vapor be=e x c arrive at ! tap4 ,) ! /eam1 ! volatile oils--i4e4 p]fume--rises1 & is liquefi$ at ! same "t4 ,! liquids :i* ?us run ov]1 on /&+ = a "t1 sep>ate into two portions1 & are f9ally divid$ ) a funnel hav+ a /opcock 9 ! n>r[ "p ( x4 ,by ?is process1 ! majority ( ! volatile or ess5tial oils are procur$4 ,9 "s few in/ances alcohol--i4e4 rectifi$ _s ( w9e--is plac$ ^u ! odor\s mat]ials 9 lieu ( wat]1 :i*1 on be+ di/ill$1 comes away ) ! p]fum+ sub/ance dissolv$ 9 x4 ,b ?is process is n[ ne>ly obsolete1 z x is f\nd m b5eficial to draw ! oil or ess5ce fir/ ) wat]1 & aft]w>ds to dissolve x 9 ! _s4 ,! l[ temp]ature at :i* _s boils1 comp>$ ) wat]1 causes a great loss ( ess5tial oil1 ! heat n be+ suffici5t to dis5gage x f ! plant1 especially :]e se$s su* z cloves or c>away are employ$4 ,x s happ5s1 h[ev]1 t ! f9e/ odors1 ! re*]*e z ! ,p>isians say1 _c be procur$ by ?is me?od2 !n rec\rse is _h to ! next process4 ,illu/ration3 ,tap funnel = sep>at+ ottos f wat] & spirits f oil4 #c4 ,mac]ation4--,( all ! processes = procur+ ! p]fumes ( fl[]s1 ?is is ! mo/ important to ! p]fum]1 & is ! lea/ und]/ood 9 ,engl&2 z ?is op]ation yields n only ! mo/ exquisite ess5ces indirectly1 b also ne>ly all ^? f9e pomades kn[n "h z ,fr5* pomatums1 s mu* admir$ = ! /r5g? ( fragrance1 toge!r ) ,fr5* oils equally p]fum$4 ,! op]ation is conduct$ ?us3--,= :at is call$ pomade1 a c]ta9 quantity ( purifi$ mutton or de] suet is put into a clean metal or porcela9 pan1 ?is be+ melt$ by a /eam heat2 ! k9d ( fl[]s requir$ = ! odor want$ are c>efully pick$ & put into ! liquid fat1 & all[$ to rema9 f twelve to =ty-eight h\rs2 ! fat has a p>ticul> aff9ity or attraction = ! oil ( fl[]s1 & ?us1 z x 71 draws x out ( !m1 & becomes itself1 by _! aid1 highly p]fum$2 ! fat is /ra9$ f ! sp5t fl[]s1 & fre% are add$ f\r or five times ov]1 till ! pomade is ( ! requir$ /r5g?2 ^! v>i\s /r5g?s ( pomatums are not$ by ! ,fr5* mak]s z ,nos4 #f1 #ab1 #ah1 & #bd1 ! high] num]als indicat+ ! am\nt ( fragrance 9 !m4 ,= p]fum$ oils ! same op]ation is foll[$2 b1 9 lieu ( suet1 f9e olive oil or oil ( b51 d]iv$ f ! b5 nuts ( ! ,levant1 is us$1 & ! same results are obta9$4 ,^! oils are call$ ,huile ,antique ( su* & su* a fl[]4 ,:5 nei!r ( ! =ego+ processes gives satisfactory results1 ! me?od ( proc$ure adopt$ is by1-- #d4 ,absorption1 or ,enfleurage4--,! odors ( "s fl[]s are s delicate & volatile1 t ! heat requir$ 9 ! previ\sly nam$ processes w\ld greatly modify1 if n entirely spoil !m2 ?is process is1 !re=e1 conduct$ cold1 ?us3--,squ>e frames1 ab\t ?ree in*es deep1 ) a glass bottom1 say two feet wide & ?ree feet long1 are procur$2 ov] ! glass a lay] ( fat is spread1 ab\t half an in* ?ick1 ) a k9d ( pla/] knife or spatula2 into ?is ! fl[] buds are /uck1 cup d[nw>ds1 & rang$ completely ov] x1 & !re left f twelve to sev5ty-two h\rs4 ,"s h\ses1 su* z t ( ,messrs4 ,pil> & ,sons2 ,pascal ,bro!rs2 ,h4 ,h]man1 & a few o!rs1 h #cjjj su* frames at "w dur+ ! season2 z !y are fill$1 !y are pil$ "o ov] ! o!r1 ! fl[]s are *ang$ s long z ! plants cont9ue to bloom1 :i* n[ & !n exce$s two or ?ree mon?s4 ,= oils ( ! same plants1 co>se l95 clo?s are imbu$ ) ! f9e/ olive oil or oil ( b51 & /ret*$ ^u a frame made ( iron2 on ^! ! fl[]s are laid & suff]$ to rema9 a few days4 ,?is op]ation is repeat$ sev]al times1 aft] :i* ! clo?s are subject$ to great pressure1 to remove ! n[ p]fum$ oil4 ,z we _c give any g5]al rule = work+1 )\t mislead+ ! read]1 we pref] expla9+ ! process requir$ = ea* :5 we come to speak ( ! individual fl[] or plant4 ,,section ,,iii4 ,:5ev] a ,/ill is nam$1 or an article is said to be di/ill$ or drawn1 x mu/ be und]/ood to be done s by /eam app>atus1 z ?is is ! only mode :i* c be adopt$ = obta9+ any?+ l a delicate odor2 ! old plan ( hav+ ! fire imm$iately "u ! /ill1 convey+ an empyreumatic or burnt smell to ! result1 has become obsolete 9 e well-regulat$ p]fumatory4 ,! /eam-/ill diff]s f ! "o describ$ only 9 ! l[] "p1 or pan1 :i* is made d\ble1 s z to all[ /eam f a boil] to circulate r\nd ! pan = ! purpose ( boil+ ! cont5ts1 in/ead ( ! direct fire4 ,9 mac]at+1 ! heat is appli$ 9 ! same way1 or by a contrivance l ! common glue-pot1 z made use ( n[adays4 ,?is description ( app>atus w be f\nd v useful = exp]im5ts :i* we w sugge/ by-&-by4 ,! p]fumes = ! h&k]*ief1 z f\nd 9 ! %ops ( ,p>is & ,london1 are ei!r simple or comp\nd2 ! =m] are call$ extracts1 extraits1 esprits1 or ess5ces1 & ! latt] b\quets & nosegays1 :i* are mixtures ( ! extracts s comp\nd$ 9 quantity t no "o fl[] or odor c be discov]$ z pr$om9at+ ov] ano!r2 & :5 made ( ! delicate-sc5t$ fl[]s c>efully bl5d$1 !y produce an exquisite s5sation on ! olfactory n]ve1 & are !re=e mu* priz$ by all :o c af=d to pur*ase !m4 ,we %all fir/ expla9 ! mode = obta9+ ! simple extracts ( fl[]s4 ,?is w be foll[$ by ! process = prep>+ amb]gris1 musk1 & civet1 sub/ances1 :i*1 ?\gh ( animal orig91 are ( ! utmo/ importance z =m+ a l>ge "p 9 ! mo/ approv$ b\quets2 & we %all conclude ?is dep>tm5t ( ! art ) recipes = all ! fa%ionable b\quets & nosegays1 ! value ( :i*1 we d\bt n1 w be e/imat$ accord+ to ! labor be/[$ ^u _! analysis4 ,9 ord] to r5d] ! "w m easy ( consultation1 we h adopt$ ! alphabetical arrangem5t 9 pref]5ce to a m sci5tific classification4 ,among ! collection ( ottos ( ! ,ea/ ,india ,company at ! ,exhibition ( #ahea1 7 sev]al hi!rto unkn[n 9 ?is c\ntry1 & possess+ mu* int]e/4 ,x is to be regrett$1 t no p]son hav+ any practical k ( p]fum]y 0 plac$ on ! jury ( ,class ,,iv or ,,xxix4 ,_h su* be5 ! case1 ! desires ( ! exhibitors w\ld probably h be5 realiz$1 & ,european p]fum]s b5efit$ by ! introduction ( new odors f ! ,ea/4 ,"s ( ! ottos s5t by a native p]fum] ( ,b5>es 7 deem$ wor?y ( honorable m5tion4 ,su* z ,*umeylee1 ,beyla1 ,begla1 ,moteya1 & _m o!rs f ! ,moluccas1 b )\t any in=mation respect+ !m4 ,we are n go+ to speak (1 p]haps1 m ?an a ti! ( ! plants t h a p]fume--only ^? w be m5tion$ t are us$ by ! op]ative p]fum]1 & su* z are imitat$ by him 9 consequ5ce ( !re be+ a dem& = ! article1 :i* circum/ances prev5t him f obta9+ 9 its g5u9e /ate4 ,! fir/ t comes "u our notice is-- ,,allspice4--,! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( allspice1 commonly call$ pim5to1 is obta9$ by di/ill+ ! dri$ fruit1 be=e x is q ripe1 ( ! ,eug5ia pim5ta & ,myrtus pim5ta ) wat]4 ,x is ?us procur$ z an ess5tial oil2 x is b little us$ 9 p]fum]y1 & :5 s1 only 9 comb9ation ) o!r spice oils2 = sc5t+ soap x is1 h[ev]1 v agreeable1 & mu* resembles ! smell ( cloves1 & des]ves m att5tion ?an x has hi!rto receiv$4 ,mix$ 9 ! proportion ( two ounces ( oil ( allspice ) "o gallon ( rectifi$ _s ( w9e1 x =ms :at may be t]m$ extract ( allspice1 :i* extract w be f\nd v useful 9 ! manufacture ( l[-pric$ b\quets4 ,,almonds4 ,m>k well ! fl['r+ almonds 9 ! wood2 ,if od'r\s blooms ! be>+ bran*es load1 ,! glebe w answ] to ! sylvan reign1 ,great heats w foll[1 & l>ge crops ( gra94 ,,virgil4 ,?is p]fume has be5 mu* e/eem$ = _m ages4 ,x may be procur$ by di/ill+ ! leaves ( any ( ! laurel tribe1 & ! k]nels ( /one fruit2 = trade purposes1 x is obta9$ f ! bitt] almonds1 & exi/s 9 ! sk9 or pellicle t cov]s ! se$ aft] x is %ell$4 ,9 ! ord9>y way1 ! almonds are put into ! press = ! purpose ( obta9+ ! mild or fat oil f ! nut2 ! cake :i* is left aft] ?is process is !n mix$ ) salt & wat]1 & all[$ to rema9 toge!r = ab\t tw5ty-f\r h\rs prior to di/illation4 ,! reason = moi/5+ ! cake is well und]/ood to ! practical *emi/1 & al?\gh we are n treat+ ! subject ( p]fum]y 9 a *emical s5se1 b only 9 a practical way1 x may n be inappropriate "h to obs]ve1 t ! ess5tial oil ( almonds does n exi/ ready =m$ to any ext5t 9 ! nut1 b t x is produc$ by a species ( f]m5tation1 f ! amygdal9 & emuls9e conta9$ 9 ! almonds1 toge!r ) ! wat] t is add$4 ,analog\s sub/ances exi/ 9 laurel leaves1 & h5ce ! same c\rse is to be pursu$ :5 !y are di/ill$4 ,"s manufactur]s put ! moi/5$ cake into a bag ( co>se clo?1 or spread x ^u a sieve1 & !n =ce ! /ream ?r\gh x2 9 ei!r case1 ! ess5tial oil ( ! almond rises ) ! wat]y vapor1 & is cond5s$ 9 ! /ill-worm4 ,9 ?is conc5trat$ =m1 ! odor ( almonds is f> f agreeable2 b :5 dilut$ ) _s1 9 ! proportion ( ab\t "o & a half ounce ( ! oil to a gallon ( _s or alcohol1 x is v pleasant4 ,illu/ration3 ,almond4 ,! ess5tial oil ( almonds1 ent]s into comb9ation ) soap1 cold cream1 & _m o!r mat]ials prep>$ by ! p]fum]2 = :i* see _! respective titles4 ,f\rte5 p\nds ( ! cake yield ab\t "o ounce ( ess5tial oil4 ,9 exp]im5ts ) ?is sub/ance1 x mu/ be c>efully rememb]$ t x is exce$+ly poison\s1 &1 !re=e1 great caution is necess>y 9 its admixture ) sub/ances us$ z a cosmetic1 o!rwise dang]\s results may ensue4 ,artificial ,otto ( ,almonds4--,five or six ye>s ago1 ,mr4 ,mansfield1 ( ,weybridge1 took out a pat5t = ! manufacture ( otto ( almonds f b5zole4 7,b5zole is obta9$ f t> oil47 ,8 app>atus1 accord+ to ! ,report ( ! juries ( ! #ahea ,exhibition1 consi/s ( a l>ge glass tube 9 ! =m ( a coil1 :i* at ! upp] end divides into two tubes2 ea* ( :i* is provid$ ) a funnel4 ,a /ream ( nitric acid fl[s sl[ly into "o ( ! funnels1 & b5zole into ! o!r4 ,! two sub/ances meet at ! po9t ( union ( ! tubes1 & a comb9ation ensues ) ! evolution ( heat4 ,z ! newly =m$ comp\nd fl[s d[n ?r\gh ! coil x becomes cool1 & is collect$ at ! l[] extremity2 x !n requires to be wa%$ ) wat]1 & la/ly ) a dilute solution ( c>bonate ( soda1 to r5d] x fit = use4 ,nitro-b5zole1 :i* is ! *emical "n = ?is artificial otto ( almonds1 has a diff]5t odor to ! true otto ( almonds1 b x c nev]!less be us$ = p]fum+ soap4 ,mr4 ,mansfield writes to me "u date ( ,janu>y #c;d1 #ahee3--;,9 #ahea1 ,messrs4 ,gosnell1 ( ,?ree ,k+ ,c\rt1 began to make ?is p]fume "u my lic5se2 latt]ly ,i )drew ! lic5se f !m by _! cons5t1 & s9ce !n x is n made t ,i am aw>e (4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 q common 9 ,p>is4 ,,anise4--,! odor\s pr9ciple is procur$ by di/ill+ ! se$s ( ! plant ,pimp9ella anisum2 ! product is ! oil ( anise$ ( comm]ce4 ,z x congeals at a temp]ature ( ab\t #ej deg4 ,fahr41 x is frequ5tly adult]at$ ) a little sp]maceti1 to give a c]ta9 solidity to x1 :]eby o!r *eap] ess5tial oils c be add$ to x ) less *ance ( detection4 ,z ! oil ( anise$ is q soluble 9 _s1 & ! sp]maceti insoluble1 ! fraud is easily detect$4 ,?is p]fume is exce$+ly /rong1 & is1 !re=e1 well adapt$ = mix+ ) soap & = sc5t+ pomatums1 b does n d nicely 9 comp\nds = h&k]*ief use4 ,,balm1 oil ( ,balm1 call$ also oil ( ,melissa1 is obta9$ by di/ill+ ! leaves ( ! ,melissa (fic9alis ) wat]2 x comes f ! /ill tap ) ! cond5s$ /eam or wat]1 f :i* x is sep>at$ ) ! tap funnel4 ,b x is v little us$ 9 p]fum]y1 if we except its comb9ation 9 ,aqua di ,arg5to4 ,,balsam4--,"u ?is title !re are two or ?ree sub/ances us$ 9 p]fum]y1 su* z balsam ( ,p]u1 balsam ( ,tolu1 & balsam ( /orax 7also call$ liquid amb]74 ,! fir/-nam$1 is procur$ f ! ,myroxylon p]uif]um2 x exudes f ! tree :5 w\nd$1 & is also obta9$ by boil+ d[n ! b>k & bran*es 9 wat]4 ,! latt] is ! mo/ common me?od = procur+ x4 ,x has a /rong odor1 l b5zo94 ,balsam ( ,tolu fl[s f ! ,toluif]a balsammum4 ,x resembles common res9 7ros972 ) ! lea/ w>m?1 h[ev]1 x runs to a liquid1 l br[n treacle4 ,! smell ( x is p>ticul>ly agreeable1 & be+ soluble 9 alcohol makes a good basis = a b\quet1 giv+ 9 ?is respect a p]man5ce ( odor to a p]fume :i* ! simple solution ( an oil w\ld n possess4 ,= ?is purpose all ^! balsams are v useful1 ?\gh n s mu* us$ z !y might be4 ,,ulex has f\nd t balsam ( ,tolu is frequ5tly adult]at$ ) common res94 ,to detect ?is adult]ation he p\rs sulphuric acid on ! balsam1 & heats ! mixture1 :5 ! balsam dissolves to a *]ry-r$ fluid1 )\t evolv+ sulphur\s acid1 b ) ! escape ( b5zoic or c9namic acid1 if no common res9 is pres5t4 ,on ! contr>y1 ! balsam foams1 black5s1 & mu* sulphur\s acid is set free1 if x is adult]at$ ) common res94--,ar*ives d] ,ph>macie4 ,balsam ( /orax1 commonly call$ gum /yrax1 is obta9$ 9 ! same mann]1 & possess+ simil> prop]ties1 ) a slight v>iation ( odor1 is applicable 9 ! same mann] z ! above4 ,!y are all import$ f ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,*ili1 & ,mexico1 :]e ! trees t produce !m are indig5\s4 ,,bay1 oil ( sweet ,bay1 also t]m$ ess5tial oil ( laurel-b]ries1 is a v fragrant sub/ance1 procur$ by di/illation f ! b]ries ( ! bay laurel4 ,?\gh v pleasant1 x is n mu* us$4 ,,b]gamot4--,?is mo/ useful p]fume is procur$ f ! ,citrus ,b]gamia1 by expression f ! peel ( ! fruit4 ,x has a s(t sweet odor1 too well kn[n to ne$ description "h4 ,:5 new & good x has a gre5i%-yell[ t9t1 b loses its gre5ness by age1 especially if kept 9 imp]fectly cork$ bottles4 ,x !n becomes cl\dy f ! deposit ( res9\s matt]1 produc$ by ! contact ( ! air1 & acquires a turp5t9e smell4 ,x is be/ pres]v$ 9 well-/opp]$ bottles1 kept 9 a cool cell>1 & 9 ! d>k2 light1 especially ! direct sun%9e1 quickly det]iorates its odor4 ,?is obs]vation may be appli$1 inde$1 to all p]fumes1 except rose1 :i* is n s spoil$4 ,:5 b]gamot is mix$ ) o!r ess5tial oils x greatly adds to _! ri*ness1 & gives a sweetness to spice oils atta9able by no o!r means1 & su* comp\nds are mu* us$ 9 ! mo/ highly sc5t$ soaps4 ,mix$ ) rectifi$ _s 9 ! proportions ( ab\t f\r ounces ( b]gamot to a gallon1 x =ms :at is call$ extract ( b]gamot1 & 9 ?is /ate is us$ = ! h&k]*ief4 ,?\gh well cov]$ ) extract ( orris & o!r matt]s1 x is ! lead+ +r$i5t 9 ,bayley & ,blew's ,ess4 ,b\quet 7see ,,b\quets74 ,illu/ration3 ,/yrax ,b5zo94 ,,b5zo91 also call$ ,b5jam94--,?is is a v useful sub/ance to p]fum]s4 ,x exudes f ! ,/yrax b5zo9 by w\nd+ ! tree1 & dry+1 becomes a h>d gum-res94 ,x is pr9cipally import$ f ,borneo1 ,java1 ,sumatra1 & ,siam4 ,! be/ k9d comes f ! latt] place1 & us$ to be call$ ,amygdaloides1 because ( its be+ int]sp]s$ ) sev]al :ite spots1 :i* resemble brok5 almonds4 ,:5 heat$1 ^! :ite specks rise z a smoke1 :i* is easily cond5s$ ^u pap]4 ,! mat]ial ?us sep>at$ f ! b5zo9 is call$ fl[]s ( b5zo9 9 comm]ce1 & by *emi/s is t]m$ b5zoic acid4 ,x has all1 or ne>ly all1 ! odor ( ! res9 f :i* x is d]iv$4 ,! extract1 or t9cture ( b5zo91 =ms a good basis = a b\quet4,b ,l balsam ( ,tolu1 x gives p]man5ce & body to a p]fume made ) an ess5tial oil 9 _s4 ,! pr9cipal consumption ( b5zo9 is 9 ! manufacture ( pa/illes 7see ,,pa/illes71 & = ! prep>ation ( fictiti\s vanilla pomade 7see ,,pomatums74 ,,c>away4--,?is odorif]\s pr9ciple is drawn by di/illation f ! se$s ( ! ,c>um c>ui4 ,x has a v pleasant smell1 q famili> en\gh )\t description4 ,x is well adapt$ to p]fume soap1 = :i* x is mu* us$ 9 ,engl&1 ?\gh r>ely if ev] on ! cont95t2 :5 dissolv$ 9 _s x may be us$ 9 comb9ation ) oil ( lav5d] & b]gamot = ! manufacture ( *eap ess5ces1 9 a simil> way to cloves 7see ,,cloves74 ,if c>away se$s are gr\nd1 !y are well adapt$ = mix+ to =m sa*et p[d] 7see ,,sa*ets74 ,,casc>illa4--,! b>k is us$ 9 ! =mation ( pa/illes1 & also ent]s into ! composition kn[n z ,eau a ,brul]1 = p]fum+ ap>tm5ts1 to :i* we ref]4 ,! b>k alone ( ?is plant is us$ by ! manufactur+ p]fum]1 & t only 9 ! fabrication ( pa/illes4 ,! ,casc>illa gratissimus is h[ev] s fragrant1 t accord+ to ,burnett its leaves are ga!r$ by ! ,koras ( ! ,cape ( ,good ,hope z a p]fume1 & bo? ! ,c4 fragrans & ,c4 fragilis are odorif]\s4 ,x behooves p]fum]s1 !re=e1 :o are on ! look out = novelties1 to obta9 ^! leaves & asc]ta9 ! result ( _! di/illation4 ,messrs4 ,h]r+ & ,co41 "s ye>s ago1 drew ! oil ( casc>illa1 b x 0 only (f]$ to ! trade z a curiosity4 ,,cassia4--,! ess5tial oil ( cassia is procur$ by di/ill+ ! out] b>k ( ! ,c9namomum cassia4 #a cwt4 ( b>k yields r m ?an ?ree qu>t]s ( a p\nd ( oil2 x has a pale yell[ color2 9 smell x mu* resembles c9namon1 al?\gh v inf]ior to x4 ,x is pr9cipally us$ = p]fum+ soap1 especially :at is call$ milit>y soap1 z x is m aromatic or spicy ?an fl[]y 9 odor2 x !re=e f9ds no place = h&k]*ief use4 ,,cassie4-- ,! %ort n>cissus & fair daffodil1 ,pansies to please ! sight1 & cassie sweet to swell4 ,,dryd5',s ,virgil4 ,?is is "o ( ^? f9e odors :i* ent]s into ! composition ( ! be/ h&k]*ief b\quets4 ,illu/ration3 ,fl[]-buds ( ! ,acacia ,f>nesiana4 ,:5 smell$ at alone1 x has an int5se violet odor1 & is r sickly sweet4 ,x is procur$ by mac]ation f ! ,acacia f>nesiana4 ,! purifi$ fat is melt$1 into :i* ! fl[]s are ?r[n & left to dige/ = sev]al h\rs2 ! sp5t fl[]s are remov$1 & fre% are add$1 eight or t5 times1 until suffici5t ri*ness ( p]fume is obta9$4 ,z _m fl[]s are us$ z ! grease w cov]1 :5 !y are put into x1 9 a liquid /ate4 ,aft] be+ /ra9$1 & ! pomade has be5 kept at a heat suffici5t only to reta9 its liquidity1 all impurities w subside by /&+ = a few days4 ,f9ally cool$1 x is ! cassie pomade ( comm]ce4 ,! ,huile de ,cassie1 or fat oil ( cassie1 is prep>$ 9 a simil> mann]1 sub/itut+ ! oil ( ,egyptian b5 nut1 olive oil1 or almond oil1 9 place ( suet4 ,bo? ^! prep>ations are obvi\sly only a solution ( ! true ess5tial oil ( cassie fl[]s 9 ! neutral fatty body4 ,europe may %ortly be expect+ to import a simil> sc5t$ pomade f ,s\? ,au/ralia1 d]iv$ f ! ,wattle1 a plant t belongs to ! same g5us z ! ,a4 f>nesiana1 & :i* gr[s mo/ luxuriantly 9 ,au/ralia4 ,mutton fat be+ *eap1 & ! wattle pl5tiful1 a pr(itable trade may be anticipat$ 9 cur+ ! fl[]s1 c4 ,to prep>e ! extract ( cassie1 take six p\nds ( ,no4 #bd 7be/ quality7 cassie pomade1 & place ^u x "o gallon ( ! be/ rectifi$ _s1 z s5t out by ,b[]bank1 ( ,bi%opsgate4 ,aft] x has dige/$ = ?ree weeks or a mon?1 at a summ] heat1 x is fit to draw f ! pomatum1 &1 if good1 has a beautiful gre5 color & ri* fl[]y smell ( ! cassie blossom4 ,all extracts made by ?is process--mac]ation1 or1 z x may be call$1 cold infusion1 give a m natural smell ( ! fl[]s to ! result1 ?an by m]ely dissolv+ ! ess5tial oil 7procur$ by di/illation7 9 ! _s2 moreov]1 :]e ! odor ( ! fl[] exi/s 9 only v m9ute quantities1 z 9 ! pres5t in/ance1 & ) violet1 jasm9e1 c41 x is ! only practical mode ( proce$+4 ,9 ?is1 & all o!r simil> cases1 ! pomatum mu/ be cut up into v small pieces1 aft] ! dome/ic mann] ( *opp+ suet1 prior to its be+ infus$ 9 ! alcohol4 ,! action ( ! mixture is simply a *ange ( place 9 ! odorif]\s matt]1 :i* leaves ! fat body by ! sup]ior attraction1 or aff9ity1 z ! *emi/s say1 ( ! spirits ( w9e1 9 :i* x freely dissolves4 ,! major "p ( ! extract c be p\r$ or drawn (f ! pomatum )\t tr\ble1 b x /ill reta9s a portion 9 ! int]/ices1 :i* requires "t to dra9 away1 & ?is mu/ be assi/$ by plac+ ! pomatum 9 a l>ge funnel1 support$ by a bottle1 9 ord] to collect ! rema9d]4 ,f9ally1 all ! pomatum1 :i* is n[ call$ wa%$ pomatum1 is to be put into a t91 :i* t9 mu/ be set into hot wat]1 = ! purpose ( melt+ its cont5ts2 :5 ! pomatum ?us becomes liquefi$1 any extract t is /ill 9 x rises to ! surface1 & c be skimm$ (f1 or :5 ! pomatum becomes cold x c be p\r$ f x4 ,! wa%$ pomatum is pres]v$ = use 9 ! manufacture ( dress+ = ! hair1 = :i* purpose x is exce$+ly well adapt$1 on acc\nt ( ! purity ( ! grease f :i* x 0 orig9ally prep>$1 b m p>ticul>ly on acc\nt ( a c]ta9 portion ( odor :i* x /ill reta9s2 & 7 x n us$ up 9 ?is way1 x w\ld be advisable to put x = a second infusion 9 _s1 & ?us a weak] extract c\ld be made s]viceable = l[] pric$ articles4 ,i _c leave cassie )\t recomm5d+ x m especially to ! notice ( p]fum]s & druggi/s1 z an article well adapt$ = ! purpose ( ! manufacture ( ess5ces = ! h&k]*ief & pomades = ! hair4 ,:5 dilut$ ) o!r odors1 x imp>ts to ! :ole su* a true fl[]y fragrance1 t x is ! admiration ( all :o smell x1 & has n a little contribut$ to ! great sale :i* c]ta9 propriet>y articles h atta9$4 ,we caution ! inexp]i5c$ n to conf\nd cassie ) cassia1 :i* has a totally diff]5t odor4 ,see ,,acacia ,,pomade4 ,,c$> ,,wood n[ & !n f9ds a place 9 a p]fum]'s w>eh\se2 :5 gr\nd1 x does well to =m a body = sa*et p[d]4 ,slips ( c$> wood are sold z mat*es = light+ lamps1 because :ile burn+ an agreeable odor is evolv$2 "s p use x also1 9 ?is condition1 di/ribut$ among clo!s 9 draw]s to prev5t mo?4 ,on di/illation x yields an ess5tial oil t is exce$+ly fragrant4 ,messrs4 ,rigge & ,co41 ( ,london1 use x ext5sively = sc5t+ soap4 ,,lebanon ,,c$> ,,wood4 7,= ! ,h&k]*ief47 ,otto ( c$>1 #a oz4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t4 ,esprit rose trip1 #a_/d p9t4 ,! t9cture smells agreeably ( ! wood1 f :i* x c readily be made4 ,its crimson color1 h[ev]1 prohibits x f be+ us$ = ! h&k]*ief4 ,x =ms an excell5t t9cture = ! tee?1 & is ! basis ( ! celebrat$ ,fr5* d5tifrice eau ,botot4 ,,c$rat4--,?is p]fume is procur$ f ! r9d ( ! citron fruit 7,citrus m$ica71 bo? by di/illation & expression2 x has a v beautiful lemony odor1 & is mu* admir$4 ,x is pr9cipally us$ 9 ! manufacture ( ess5ces = ! h&k]*ief1 be+ too exp5sive = p]fum+ grease or soap4 ,:at is call$ extract ( c$rat is made by dissolv+ two ounces ( ! above ess5tial oil ( citron 9 "o p9t ( spirits1 to :i* "s p]fum]s add half an ounce ( b]gamot4 ,,c9namon4--,sev]al species ( ! plant ,laurus c9namomum yield ! c9namon & cassia ( comm]ce4 ,its "n is said to be d]iv$ f ,*9a ,amomum1 ! b>k be+ "o ( ! mo/ valu$ spices ( ! ,ea/4 ,p]fum]s use bo? ! b>k & ! oil1 :i* is obta9$ by di/illation f x4 ,! gr\nd b>k ent]s into ! composition ( "s pa/illes1 too? p[d]s1 & sa*ets4 ,! ess5tial oil ( c9namon is pr9cipally br\ght to ?is c\ntry f ,ceylon2 x is exce$+ly p[]ful1 & mu/ be us$ sp>+ly4 ,9 su* comp\nds z cloves answ]1 s w c9namon4 ,,citron4--,on di/ill+ ! fl[]s ( ! ,citrus m$ica1 a v fragrant oil is procur$1 :i* is a species ( n]oli1 & is pr9cipally consum$ by ! manufactur]s ( eau de ,cologne4 ,,citronella4--,"u ?is "n !re is an oil 9 ! m>ket1 *iefly d]iv$ f ,ceylon & ! ,ea/ ,indies2 its true orig9 we are unable to decide2 9 odor x some:at resembles citron fruit1 b is v inf]ior4 ,probably x is procur$ f "o ( ! grasses ( ! ,&ropogon g5us4 ,be+ *eap1 x is ext5sively us$ = p]fum+ soap4 ,:at is n[ ext5sively sold z honey soap1 is a f9e yell[ soap slightly p]fum$ ) ?is oil4 ,"s few use x = sc5t+ grease1 b x is n mu* admir$ 9 t way4 ,,cloves4--,e "p ( ! clove plant 7,c>yophyllus aromaticus7 ab\nds ) aromatic oil1 b x is mo/ fragrant & pl5tiful 9 ! unexp&$ fl[]-bud1 :i* are ! cloves ( comm]ce4 ,cloves h be5 br\ght into ! ,european m>ket = m ?an #bjjj ye>s4 ,! plant is a native ( ! ,moluccas & o!r isl&s 9 ! ,*9a seas4 ,! av]age annual crop ( cloves1 says ,burnett1 is1 f ea* tree1 #b or #b-a_/b lbs41 b a f9e tree has be5 kn[n to yield #abe lbs4 ( ?is spice 9 a s+le season1 & z #ejjj cloves only weigh "o p\nd1 !re mu/ h be5 at lea/ #fbe1jjj fl[]s ^u ?is s+le tree4 ,illu/ration3 ,clove4 ,! oil ( cloves may be obta9$ by expression f ! fre% fl[]-buds1 b ! usual me?od ( procur+ x is by di/illation1 :i* is c>ri$ on to a v great ext5t 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,few ess5tial oils h a m ext5sive use 9 p]fum]y ?an t ( cloves2 x comb9es well ) grease1 soap1 & _s1 &1 z w be se5 9 ! recipes = ! v>i\s b\quets giv5 h]eaft]1 x =ms a lead+ feature 9 "s ( ! mo/ popul> h&k]*ief ess5ces1 ,rondeletia1 ! ,gu>d's ,b\quet1 c41 & w be f\nd :]e lea/ expect$4 ,= ess5ce ( cloves1 dissolve oil ( cloves 9 ! proportion ( two ounces ( oil to "o gallon ( _s4 ,,dill4--,p]fum]s are n[ & !n ask$ = dill wat]2 x is1 h[ev]1 m a druggi/'s article ?an a p]fum]'s1 z x is m us$ = its m$ic9al qualities ?an = its odor1 :i* by ! way1 is r pleasant ?an o!rwise4 ,"s ladies use a mixture ( half dill wat] & half rose wat]1 z a simple cosmetic1 to cle> ! complexion4 ,! oil ( dill is procur$ by submitt+ ! cru%$ fruit ( dill 7,ane?um graveol5s7 ) wat] to di/illation4 ,! oil floats on ! surface ( ! di/illate1 f :i* x is sep>at$ by ! funnel 9 ! usual mann]2 aft] ! sep>ation ( ! oil1 ! wat] is fit = sale4 ,oil ( dill may be us$ ) advantage1 if 9 small proportions1 & mix$ ) o!r oils1 = p]fum+ soap4 ,,eglant9e1 or ,,sweet ,,bri>1 not)/&+ :at ! poet ,rob]t ,noyes says-- ,9 fragrance yields1 ,surpass+ citron groves or spicy fields1 does n f9d a place 9 ! p]fum]'s sc5t-room except 9 "n4 ,?is1 l _m o!r sweet-sc5t$ plants1 does n repay ! labor ( collect+ its odor4 ,! fragrant "p ( ?is plant is de/roy$ m or less "u e treatm5t t x is put to1 & h5ce x is disc>d$4 ,z1 h[ev]1 ! article is 9 dem& by ! public1 a species ( fraud is practis$ ^u !m1 by imitat+ x ?us3-- ,,imitation ,,eglant9e1 ,,or ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,sweet ,,bri>4 ,spiritu\s extract ( ,fr5* rose pomatum1 #a p9t4 cassie1 #a_/d fleur d'orange1 #a_/d ,esprit de rose1 #a_/d ,oil ( n]oli1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,oil ( lemon grass 7v]b5a oil71 #a_/b ,,eld] 7,sambucus nigra74--,! only prep>ation ( ?is plant = its odor\s quality us$ by ! p]fum]1 is eld]-fl[] wat]4 ,to prep>e x1 take n9e p\nds ( eld]-fl[]s1 free f /alk1 & introduce x to ! /ill ) f\r gallons ( wat]2 ! fir/ ?ree gallons t come ov] is all t ne$ be pres]v$ = use2 "o ounce ( rectifi$ _s %\ld be add$ to ea* gallon ( wat] di/ill$1 & :5 bottl$ x is ready = sale4 ,o!r prep>ations ( eld] fl[]s are made1 su* z milk ( eld]1 extract ( eld]1 c41 :i* w be f\nd 9 _! prop] place "u ,cosmetics4 ,two or ?ree new mat]ials made f ?is fl[] w also be giv5 h]eaft]1 :i* are likely to meet ) a v l>ge sale on acc\nt ( ! reput$ cool+ qualities ( ! +r$i5ts2 ( ^! we w\ld call att5tion m p>ticul>ly to cold cream ( eld]-fl[]s1 & to eld] oil = ! hair4 ,! prep>ations ( eld]-fl[]s1 if made accord+ to ! ,ph>macopoeias1 are p]fectly useless1 z ! =ms !re9 giv5 %[ an utt] want ( k ( ! prop]ties ( ! mat]ials employ$4 ,,f5nel 7,fo5iculum vulg>e74--,dri$ f5nel h]b1 :5 gr\nd1 ent]s into ! composition ( "s sa*et p[d]s4 ,! oil ( f5nel1 9 conjunction ) o!r aromatic oils1 may be us$ = p]fum+ soap4 ,x is procurable by di/illation4 ,,flag 7,,sweet7 7,acorus calamus74--,! roots1 or rhizome1 ( ! sweet flag1 yield by di/illation a pleasant-smell+ oil2 #a cwt4 ( ! rhizome w ?us yield "o p\nd ( oil4 ,x c be us$ accord+ to ! pleasure ( ! manufactur] 9 sc5t+ grease1 soap1 or = extracts1 b requires o!r sweet oils ) x to hide its orig94 ,,g]anium 7,pel>gonium odoratissimum1 rose-leaf g]anium74--,! leaves ( ?is plant yield by di/illation a v agreeable rosy-smell+ oil1 s mu* resembl+ real otto ( rose1 t x is us$ v ext5sively = ! adult]ation ( t valuable oil1 & is gr[n v l>gely = t express purpose4 ,x is pr9cipally cultivat$ 9 ! s\? ( ,france1 & 9 ,turkey 7by ! rose-gr[]s74 ,9 ! dep>tm5t ( ,se9e-et-,oise1 at ,mont=t-,lamaury1 9 ,france1 hundr$s ( acres ( x may be se5 gr[+4 #a cwt4 ( leaves w yield ab\t two ounces ( ess5tial oil4 ,us$ to adult]ate otto ( rose1 x is 9 its turn itself adult]at$ ) g+] grass oil 7,&ropogon71 & ?us =m]ly 0 v difficult to procure g5u9e2 on acc\nt ( ! increas$ cultivation ( ! plant1 x is n[1 h[ev]1 easily procur$ pure4 ,"s samples are gre5i%-color$1 o!rs ne>ly :ite1 b we pref] t ( a br[ni% t9t4 ,:5 dissolv$ 9 rectifi$ _s1 9 ! proportion ( ab\t six ounces to ! gallon1 x =ms ! extract ( rose-leaf g]anium ( ! %ops4 ,a ^w or two is necess>y ab\t ! oil ( g]anium1 z mu* confusion is creat$ respect+ x1 9 consequ5ce ( !re be+ an oil "u ! "n ( g]anium1 b :i* 9 reality is d]iv$ f ! ,&ropogon n>dus1 cultivat$ 9 ! ,moluccas4 ,?is said &ropogon 7g]anium67 oil c be us$ to adult]ate ! true g]anium1 & h5ce we suppose its nom5clature 9 ! drug m>kets4 ,! g5u9e rose-leaf g]anium oil fet*es ab\t #fs4 p] ounce1 :ile ! &ropogon oil is n wor? m ?an t sum p] p\nd4 ,& we may obs]ve "h1 t ! p]fum+ ess5tial oils are be/ pur*as$ ?r\gh ! :olesale p]fum]s1 z f ! nature ( _! trade !y h a bett] k & means ( obta9+ ! real article ?an ! drug-brok]4 ,on acc\nt ( ! pleas+ odor ( ! true oil ( rose-leaf g]anium1 x is a valuable article = p]fum+ _m mat]ials1 & appe>s to give ! public great satisfaction4 ,,heliotrope4--,ei!r by mac]ation or enfleurage ) cl>ifi$ fat1 we may obta9 ?is f9e odor f ! fl[]s ( ! ,heliotrope ,p]uvianum or ,h4 gr&iflorum4 ,exquisite z ! odor ( ?is plant is1 at pres5t x is n appli$ to use by ! manufactur+ p]fum]4 ,?is we ?9k r a s+ul> fact1 especially z ! p]fume is p[]ful & ! fl[]s abundant4 ,we %\ld l to he> ( "s exp]im5ts be+ tri$ ) ?is plant = procur+ its odor 9 ?is c\ntry1 & = t purpose n[ sugge/ ! mode ( op]ation :i* w\ld mo/ likely lead to successful results4 ,= a small trial 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 :i* c be manag$ by any p]son hav+ ! run ( a g>d51 we w say1 procure an ord9>y glue-pot n[ 9 common use1 :i* melts ! mat]ial by ! boil+ ( wat]2 x is 9 fact a wat]-ba?1 9 *emical p>lance--"o capable ( hold+ a p\nd or m ( melt$ fat4 ,at ! season :5 ! fl[]s are 9 bloom1 obta9 half a p\nd ( f9e mutton suet1 melt ! suet & /ra9 x ?r\gh a close hair-sieve1 all[ ! liquefi$ fat1 z x falls f ! sieve1 to drop into cold spr+ wat]2 ?is op]ation granulates & wa%es ! blood & membrane f x4 ,9 ord] to />t ) a p]fectly inodor\s grease1 ! melt+ & granulation process may be repeat$ ?ree or f\r times2 f9ally1 remelt ! fat & ca/ x into a pan to free x f adh]+ wat]4 ,n[ put ! cl>ifi$ suet into ! mac]at+ pot1 & place x 9 su* a position ne> ! fire ( ! gre5h\se1 or else:]e t w keep x w>m en\gh to be liquid2 into ! fat ?r[ z _m fl[]s z y c1 & !re let !m rema9 = tw5ty-f\r h\rs2 at ?is "t /ra9 ! fat f ! sp5t fl[]s & add fre% ones2 repeat ?is op]ation = a week3 we expect at ! la/ /ra9+ ! fat w h become v highly p]fum$1 & :5 cold may be ju/ly t]m$ ,pomade a la ,heliotrope4 ,! cold pomade be+ *opp$ up1 l suet = a pudd+1 is n[ to be put into a wide-m\!d bottle1 & cov]$ ) spirits z highly rectifi$ z c be obta9$1 & left to dige/ = a week or m2 ! _s !n /ra9$ (f w be highly p]fum$2 9 reality x w be extract ( ,heliotrope1 a delightful p]fume = ! h&k]*ief4 ,! rationale ( ! op]ation is simple en\gh3 ! fat body has a /rong aff9ity or attraction = ! odor\s body1 or ess5tial oil ( ! fl[]s1 & x !re=e absorbs x by contact1 & becomes itself p]fum$4 ,9 ! second op]ation1 ! _s has a mu* great] attraction = ! fragrant pr9ciple ?an ! fatty matt]2 ! =m]1 !re=e1 becomes p]fum$ at ! exp5se ( ! latt]4 ,! same exp]im5t may be repeat$ ) almond oil sub/itut$ = ! fat4 ,! exp]im5t "h h9t$ at1 may be v>i$ ) any fl[]s t !re are to sp>e2 inde$1 by hav+ ! mac]at+ ba? l>g] ?an 0 m5tion$ above1 an excell5t millefleur pomade & ess5ce might be produc$ f e cons]vatory 9 ! k+dom1 & ?us we may receive ano!r enjoym5t f ! cultivation ( fl[]s beyond _! beauty ( =m & color4 ,we hope t ^? ( our read]s :o feel incl9$ to try exp]im5ts ( ?is nature w n be det]r$ by say+1 !y are n wor? ! tr\ble4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$1 t v f9e ess5ces realize 9 ! ,london p]fum]y w>eh\ses #afs4 p] p9t ( #af ounces1 & t f9e fl[]y-sc5t$ pomades fet* ! same sum p] p\nd4 ,if ! exp]im5ts are successful !y %\ld be publi%$1 z !n we may hope to e/abli% a new & important manufacture 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,b we are digress+4 ,! odor ( heliotrope resembles a mixture ( almonds & vanilla1 & is well imitat$ ?us3-- ,,extract ,,( ,,heliotrope4 ,spiritu\s extract ( vanilla1 #a_/b p9t4 ,fr5* rose pomatum1 #a_/d orange-fl[] pomatum1 #b oz4 amb]gris1 #a oz4 ,ess5tial oil ( almonds1 #e drops4 ,a prep>ation made 9 ?is mann] "u ! "n ( ,extract de ,heliotrope is t :i* is sold 9 ! %ops ( ,p>is & ,london1 & is really a v nice p]fume1 pass+ well ) ! public = a g5u9e extract ( heliotrope4 ,,honeysuckle or ,,woodb9e3-- ,copi\s ( fl[] ! woodb9e1 pale & wan1 ,b well comp5sat+ h] sickly looks ,) nev]-cloy+ odors4 ,:at ! poet ,c[p] "h says is q true2 nev]!less1 x is a fl[] t is n us$ 9 practical p]fum]y1 ?\gh !re is no reason = ab&on+ x4 ,! exp]im5ts sugge/$ = obta9+ ! odor ( ,heliotrope & ,millefleur 7?\s& fl[]s7 are also applicable to ?is1 z also to ,haw?orn4 ,a good ,,imitation ,,( ,,honeysuckle is made ?us3-- ,spiritu\s extract ( rose pomatum1 #a p9t4 violet #a tub]euse #a ,extract ( vanilla1 #a_/d ,tolu1 #a_/d ,otto n]oli1 #aj drops4 almonds1 #e ,! prime co/ ( a p]fume made 9 ?is mann] w\ld probably be too high to meet ! dem& ( a retail druggi/2 9 su* cases x may be dilut$ ) rectifi$ _s to ! ext5t to make x pay1 & w yet be a nice p]fume4 ,! =mula g5]ally giv5 h]e9 = odors is 9 anticipation t :5 bottl$ !y w retail = at lea/ eighte5-p5ce ! fluid ounce6 :i* is ! av]age price put on ! f9e/ p]fum]y by ! manufactur]s ( ,london & ,p>is4 ,,hov5ia4--,a p]fume "u ?is "n is sold to a limit$ ext5t1 b if x did n smell bett] ?an ! plant ,hov5ia dulcis or ,h4 inequalis1 a native ( ,japan1 x w\ld n sell at all4 ,! article 9 ! m>ket is made ?us3-- ,rectifi$ _s1 #a qu>t4 ,rose-wat]1 #a_/b p9t4 ,otto lemons1 #a_/b oz4 ,otto ( rose1 #a dra*m4 cloves1 #a_/b n]oli1 #aj drops4 ,fir/ dissolve ! ottos 9 ! _s1 !n add ! rose-wat]4 ,aft] filtration x is ready = sale4 ,:5 comp\nds ( ?is k9d d n become bright by pass+ ?r\gh blott+-pap]1 ! addition ( a little c>bonate ( magnesia prior to filt]+ effectually cle>s !m4 ,! wat] 9 ! above recipe is only add$ 9 ord] t ! article produc$ may be retail$ at a mod]ate price1 & w\ld1 ( c\rse1 be bett] )\t t univ]sal fri5d4 ,,jasm9e4-- ,luxuriant above all1 ,! jasm9e ?r[+ wide h] elegant sweets4 ,?is fl[] is "o ( ! mo/ priz$ by ! p]fum]4 ,its odor is delicate & sweet1 & s peculi> t x is )\t comp>ison1 & z su* _c be imitat$4 ,:5 ! fl[]s ( ! ,jasm9um odoratissimum are di/ill$1 repeat$ly us+ ! wat] ( di/illation ov] fre% fl[]s1 ! ess5tial oil ( jasm9e may be procur$4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 exce$+ly r>e1 on acc\nt ( ! enorm\s co/ ( production4 ,!re 0 a f9e sample ( six ounces exhibit$ 9 ! ,tunisian dep>tm5t ( ! ,cry/al ,palace1 ! price ( :i* 0 #il4 ! fluid ounce6 ,! plant is ! ,yasmyn ( ! ,arabs1 f :i* our "n is d]iv$4 ,9 ! p]fum]'s laboratory1 ! me?od ( obta9+ ! odor is by absorption1 or1 z ! ,fr5* t]m x1 enfleurage2 t is1 by spread+ a mixture ( pure l>d & suet on a glass tray1 & /ick+ ! fre%-ga!r$ fl[]s all ov] x1 leav+ !m to /& a day or s1 & repeat+ ! op]ation ) fre% fl[]s--! grease absorbs ! odor4 ,f9ally1 ! pomade is scrap$ (f ! glass or slate1 melt$ at z l[ a temp]ature z possible1 & /ra9$4 ,oils /rongly impregnat$ ) ! fragrance are also prep>$ mu* 9 ! same way4 ,lay]s ( cotton wool1 previ\sly /eep$ 9 oil ( b5 7obta9$ by pressure f ! blan*$ nuts ( ! ,mor+a oleif]a7 are cov]$ ) jasm9e fl[]s1 :i* is repeat$ sev]al times2 f9ally1 ! cotton or l95 clo?s :i* "s p]fum]s use1 are squeez$ "u a press4 ,! jasm9e oil ?us produc$ is ! ,huile antique au jasm9 ( ! ,fr5* h\ses4 ,! extract ( jasm9e is prep>$ by p\r+ rectifi$ _s on ! jasm9e pomade or oil1 & all[+ !m to rema9 toge!r = a =tnight at a summ] heat4 ,! be/ quality extract requires two p\nds ( pomatum to e qu>t ( _s4 ,! same c be done ) ! oil ( jasm9e4 ,if ! pomade is us$1 x mu/ be cut up f9e previ\sly to be+ put into ! _s2 if ! oil is us$1 x mu/ be %ak5 well toge!r e two or m h\rs1 o!rwise1 on acc\nt ( its specific gravity1 ! oil sep>ates1 & b little surface is expos$ to ! _s4 ,aft] ! extract is /ra9$ (f1 ! wa%$ pomatum or oil is /ill useful1 if remelt$1 9 ! composition ( pomatum = ! hair1 & gives m satisfaction to a cu/om] ?an any ( ! creams & balms1 c4 c41 made up & sc5t$ ) ess5tial oils2 ! "o smells ( ! fl[]1 ! o!r a nondescript4 ,illu/ration3 ,jasm9e4 ,! extract ( jasm9e ent]s into ! composition ( a great _m ( ! mo/ approv$ h&k]*ief p]fumes sold by ! ,engli% & ,fr5* p]fum]s4 ,extract ( jasm9e is sold = ! h&k]*ief (t5 pure1 b is "o ( ^? sc5ts :i*1 ?\gh v gratify+ at fir/1 becomes :at p call sickly aft] exposure to ! oxidiz+ influ5ce ( ! air1 b if judici\sly mix$ ) o!r p]fumes ( an opposite "* is sure to please ! mo/ fa/idi\s cu/om]4 ,,jonquil4--,! sc5t ( ! jonquil is v beautiful2 = p]fum]y purposes x is h[ev] b little cultivat$ 9 comp>ison ) jasm9e & tub]euse4 ,x is prep>$ exactly z jasm9e4 ,! ,p>isian p]fum]s sell a mixture :i* !y call extract ( jonquil4 ,! plant1 h[ev]1 only plays ! "p ( a godfa!r to ! (fspr+1 giv+ x its "n4 ,! s-call$ jonquil is made ?us3-- ,spiritu\s extract ( jasm9e pomade1 #a p9t4 tub]euse #a fleur d'orange1 #a_/b ,extract ( vanilla1 #b fluid ounces4 ,,laurel4--,by di/illation f ! b]ries ( ! ,laurus nobilis1 & f ! leaves ( ! ,laurus c]asus1 an oil & p]fum$ wat] are procurable ( a v beautiful & fragrant "*4 ,comm]cially1 h[ev]1 x is disreg>d$1 z f ! simil>ity ( odor to ! oil di/ill$ f ! bitt] almond1 x is r>ely1 if ev]1 us$ by ! p]fum]1 ! latt] be+ m economical4 ,,lav5d]4--,! climate ( ,engl& appe>s to be bett] adapt$ = ! p]fect developm5t ( ?is f9e old favorite p]fume ?an any o!r on ! globe4 ,! anci5ts1 says ,burnett1 employ$ ! fl[]s & ! leaves to aromatize _! ba?s1 & to give a sweet sc5t to wat] 9 :i* !y wa%$2 h5ce ! g5]ic "n ( ! plant1 ,lav&ula4 ,lav5d] is gr[n to an enorm\s ext5t at ,mit*am1 9 ,surrey1 :i* is ! seat ( its production1 9 a comm]cial po9t ( view4 ,v l>ge quantities are also gr[n 9 ,france1 b ! f9e odor ( ! ,briti% produce realizes 9 ! m>ket f\r times ! price ( t ( ,cont95tal gr[?4 ,burnett says t ! oil ( ,lav&ula spica is m pleasant ?an t d]iv$ f ! o!r species1 b ?is /atem5t mu/ n mislead ! pur*as] to buy ! ,fr5* spike lav5d]1 z x is n wor? a t5? ( t d]iv$ f ! ,lav&ulae v]ae4 ,half-a-hundr$ weight ( good lav5d] fl[]s yield1 by di/illation1 f #ad to #af oz4 ( ess5tial oil4 ,all ! inf]ior descriptions ( oil ( lav5d] are us$ = p]fum+ soaps & greases2 b ! be/1 t obta9$ f ! ,mit*am lav5d]1 is entirely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( :at is call$ lav5d] wat]1 b :i*1 m prop]ly1 %\ld be call$ ess5ce or extract ( lav5d]1 to be 9 keep+ ) ! nom5clature ( o!r ess5ces prep>$ ) _s4 ,! numb] ( =mulae publi%$ = mak+ a liquid p]fume ( lav5d] is almo/ endless1 b ! :ole ( !m may be resolv$ into ess5ce ( lav5d]1 simple2 ess5ce ( lav5d]1 comp\nd2 & lav5d] wat]4 ,!re are two me?ods ( mak+ ess5ce ( lav5d]3--#a4 ,by di/ill+ a mixture ( ess5tial oil ( lav5d] & rectifi$ _s2 & ! o!r--#b4 ,by m]ely mix+ ! oil & ! _s toge!r4 ,! fir/ process yields ! f9e/ quality3 x is t :i* is adopt$ by ! firm ( ,smy? & ,nephew1 ^: reputation = ?is article is su* t x gives a good "* 9 =eign m>kets1 especially ,india1 to all products ( lav5d] ( ,engli% manufacture4 ,lav5d] ess5ce1 t :i* is made by ! /ill1 is q :ite1 :ile t by mixture only always has a yell[i% t9t1 :i* by age becomes d>k] & res9\s4 ,,smy?',s ,,lav5d]4 ,to produce a v f9e di/illate1 take-- ,otto ( ,engli% ,lav5d]1 #d oz4 ,rectifi$ _s 7#fj ov] pro(71 #e p9ts4 ,rose-wat]1 #a p9t4 ,mix & di/il five p9ts = sale4 ,su* ess5ce ( lav5d] is exp5sive1 b at #ajs4 a p9t ( #ad oz6 !re is a m>g9 = pr(it4 ,x n be+ conv5i5t to ! g5]al deal] to sell di/ill$ lav5d] ess5ce1 ! foll[+ =m1 by mixture1 w produce a fir/-rate article1 & ne>ly z :ite z ! above4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,lav5d]4 ,otto ( lav5d]1 #c-a_/b oz4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #b qu>ts4 ,! p]fum]'s retail price = su* quality is #hs4 p] p9t ( #ad oz4 ,_m p]fum]s & druggi/s 9 mak+ lav5d] wat] or ess5ce1 use a small portion ( b]gamot1 ) an idea ( improv+ its quality--a v errone\s op9ion2 moreov]1 su* lav5d] quickly discolors4 ,,lav5d] ,,wat]4--,take3 ,engli% oil ( lav5d]1 #d oz4 ,_s1 #c qu>ts4 ,rose-wat]1 #a p9t4 ,filt] z above1 & x is ready = sale4 ,,common ,,lav5d] ,,wat]4--,same =m z ! above1 sub/itut+ ,fr5* lav5d] = ! ,briti%4 ,recipes = ,rondeletia1 ,lav5d] ,b\quet1 & o!r lav5d] comp\nds1 w be giv5 :5 we come to speak ( comp\nd p]fumes1 :i* w be res]v$ until we h f9i%$ expla9+ ! me?od ( mak+ ! simple ess5ces4 ,,lemon4--,?is f9e p]fume is ab/ract$ f ! ,citrus limonum1 by expression1 f ! r9d ( ! fruit4 ,! otto ( lemons 9 ! m>ket is pr9cipally f ,mess9a1 :]e !re are hundr$s ( acres ( lemon groves4 ,otto ( lemons1 l all ! ottos ( ! ,citrus family1 is rapidly prone to oxidation :5 9 contact ) air & exposure to light2 a high temp]ature is also detrim5tal1 & z su* is ! case x %\ld be pres]v$ 9 a cool cell>4 ,mo/ ( ! samples f ! gas-heat$ %elves ( ! druggi/s' %ops1 are z mu* l ess5ce ( turp5t9e1 to ! smell1 z t ( lemons2 rancid oil ( lemons may1 9 a great measure1 be purifi$ by agitation ) w>m wat] & f9al decantation4 ,:5 new & good1 lemon otto may be freely us$ 9 comb9ation ) rosem>y1 cloves1 & c>away1 = p]fum+ p[d]s = ! nurs]y4 ,f its rapid oxidation1 x %\ld n be us$ = p]fum+ grease1 z x assi/s r ?an o!rwise all fats to turn rancid2 h5ce pomatums s p]fum$ w n keep well4 ,9 ! manufacture ( o!r comp\nd p]fumes1 x %\ld be dissolv$ 9 _s1 9 ! proportion ( six to eight ounces ( oil to "o gallon ( _s4 ,!re is a l>ge consumption ( otto ( lemons 9 ! manufacture ( ,eau de ,cologne2 t ,f>9a uses x is easily discov]$ by add+ a few drops ( ,liq4 ,ammoniae =t4 to half an ounce ( 8 ,eau de ,cologne1 ! smell ( ! lemon is !reby br\ght out 9 a rem>kable mann]4 ,p]haps x is n out ( place "h to rem>k1 t 9 attempts to discov] ! composition ( c]ta9 p]fumes1 we are greatly assi/$ by ! use ( /rong ,liq4 ,ammoniae4 ,c]ta9 ( ! ess5tial oils comb9+ ) ! ,ammonia1 all[ ^? :i* d n d s1 if pres5t 9 ! comp\nd1 to be smelt4 ,,lemon ,,grass4--,accord+ to ,p]eira1 ! otto 9 ! m>ket "u ?is "n is d]iv$ f ! ,&ropogon s*o5an?us a species ( grass :i* gr[s abundantly 9 ,india4 ,x is cultivat$ to a l>ge ext5t 9 ,ceylon & 9 ! ,moluccas purposely = ! otto1 :i* f ! plant is easily procur$ by di/illation4 ,lemon grass otto1 or1 z x is sometimes call$1 oil ( v]b5a1 on acc\nt ( its simil>ity ( odor to t favorite plant1 is import$ into ?is c\ntry 9 old ,engli% port] & /\t bottles4 ,x is v p[]ful1 well adapt$ = p]fum+ soaps & greases1 b its pr9cipal consumption is 9 ! manufacture ( artificial ess5ce ( v]b5a4 ,f its comp>atively l[ price1 great /r5g?1 & f9e p]fume 7:5 dilut$71 ! lemon grass otto may be mu* m us$ ?an at pres5t1 ) consid]able advantage to ! retail %opkeep]4 ,,lilac4--,! fragrance ( ! fl[]s ( ?is ornam5tal %rub is well kn[n4 ,! ess5ce ( lilac is obta9$ ei!r by ! process ( mac]ation1 or enfleurage ) grease1 & aft]w>ds treat+ ! pomatum ?us =m$ ) rectifi$ _s1 9 ! same mann] z previ\sly describ$ = cassie2 ! odor s mu* resembles tub]euse1 z to be frequ5tly us$ to adult]ate ! latt]1 ! dem& = tub]euse be+ at all times great] ?an ! supply4 ,a beautiful ,,imitation ,,( ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,:ite ,,lilac may be comp\nd$ ?us3-- ,spiritu\s extract f tub]euse pomade1 #a p9t4 ( orange-fl[] pomade1 #a_/d ,otto ( almonds1 #c drops4 ,extract ( civet1 #a_/b oz4 ,! civet is only us$ to give p]man5ce to ! p]fume ( ! h&k]*ief4 ,,lily4--,! manufactur+ p]fum] rejects ! advice ( ! inspir$ writ]1 to consid] ! lilies ( ! field4 ,ri* z !y are 9 odor1 !y are n cultivat$ = _! p]fume4 ,if lilies are ?r[n into oil ( sweet almonds1 or b5 oil1 !y imp>t to x _! sweet smell2 b to obta9 any?+ l fragrance1 ! infusion mu/ be repeat$ a doz5 times ) ! same oil1 us+ fre% fl[]s = ea* infusion1 aft] /&+ a day or s4 ,! oil be+ %ak5 ) an equal quantity ( _s = a week1 gives up its odor to ! alcohol1 & ?us extract ( lilies may be made4 ,b h[ x is made is ?us3-- ,,imitation ,,lily ,,( ,,! ,,valley4 ,extract ( tub]euse1 #a_/b p9t4 jasm9e1 #a oz4 fleur d'orange1 #b oz4 vanilla1 #c oz4 cassie1 #a_/d p9t4 rose1 #a_/d ,otto ( almonds1 #c drops4 ,keep ?is mixture toge!r = a mon?1 & !n bottle x = sale4 ,x is a p]fume t is v mu* admir$4 ,,mace4--,gr\nd mace is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( "s ( ^? sc5t$ p[d]s call$ ,sa*ets4 ,a /rong-smell+ ess5tial oil may be procur$ f x by di/illation1 b x is r>ely us$4 ,,magnolia4--,! p]fume ( ?is fl[] is sup]b2 practically1 h[ev]1 x is ( little use to ! manufactur]1 ! l>ge size ( ! blossoms & _! comp>ative sc>city prev5ts _! be+ us$1 b a v excell5t imitation ( its odor is made z "u1 & is t :i* is f\nd 9 ! p]fum]s' %ops ( ,london & ,p>is4 ,,imitation ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,magnolia4 ,spiritu\s extract ( orange-fl[] pomatum1 #a p9t4 rose pomatum1 #b p9ts4 tub]euse pomatum1 #a_/b p9t4 violet pomatum1 #a_/b ,ess5tial oil ( citron1 #c drs4 almonds1 #aj drops4 ,,m>joram4--,! otto procur$ by di/ill+ ,origanum majorana1 commonly call$ oil ( or+eat by ! ,fr5*1 is exce$+ly p[]ful1 & 9 ?is respect resembles all ! ottos f ! diff]5t species ( ?yme1 ( :i* ! m>joram is "o4 ,"o hundr$ weight ( ! dry h]b yields ab\t t5 ounces ( ! otto4 ,or+eat oil is ext5sively us$ = p]fum+ soap1 b m 9 ,france ?an 9 ,engl&4 ,x is ! *ief +r$i5t us$ by ,gelle ,fr]es1 ( ,p>is1 = sc5t+ _! ,tablet ,mon/re ,soap1 s common 9 ! ,london %ops4 ,,mead[ ,,sweet4--,a sweet-smell+ otto c be produc$ by di/ill+ ! ,spiraea ulm>ia1 b x is n us$ by p]fum]s4 ,,melissa4 ,see ,,balm4 ,,mignonette4--,b = ! exquisite odor ( ?is little fl[]1 x w\ld sc>cely be kn[n o!rwise ?an z a we$4 ,sweet z x is 9 its natural /ate1 & prolific 9 odor1 we are n able to ma9ta9 its *>act]i/ic smell z an ess5ce4 ,l _m o!rs1 dur+ sep>ation f ! plant1 ! fragrance is m or less modifi$2 ?\gh n p]fect1 x /ill rem9ds ! s5se ( ! odor ( ! fl[]s4 ,to give x t sweetness :i* x appe>s to want1 a c]ta9 quantity ( violet is add$ to br+ x up to ! m>ket odor4 ,z ?is plant is s v prolific 9 odor1 we ?9k some?+ might be done ) x 9 ,engl&1 especially z x fl\ri%es z well 9 ?is c\ntry z 9 ,france2 & we desire to see ,fl[] ,f>ms & organiz$ ,p]fumatories e/abli%$ 9 ! ,briti% ,isles1 = ! extraction ( ess5ces & ! manufacture ( pomade & oils1 ( su* fl[]s z are indig5\s1 or t ?rive 9 ! op5 fields ( our c\ntry4 ,besides op5+ up a new field ( ent]prise & good inve/m5t = capital1 x w\ld give heal?y employm5t to _m wom5 & *ildr54 ,op5 air employm5t = ! "y is ( no little consid]ation to ma9ta9 ! /am9a ( ! future g5]ation2 = x _c be d5i$ t our factory sy/em & conf9$ cities are prejudicial to ! physical condition ( ! human family4 ,to return f our digression4 ,! ess5ce ( mignonette1 or1 z x is m (t5 sold "u ! "n ( ,extrait de ,rez$a1 is prep>$ by infus+ ! rez$a pomade 9 rectifi$ _s1 9 ! proportion ( "o p\nd ( pomade to "o p9t ( _s1 all[+ !m to dige/ toge!r = a =tnight1 :5 ! ess5ce is filt]$ (f ! pomade4 ,"o ounce ( extrait d'ambre is add$ to e p9t4 ,?is is done to give p]man5ce to ! odor ^u ! h&k]*ief1 & does n 9 any way alt] its odor4 ,,miribane4--,! ,fr5* "n = artificial ess5ce ( almond 7see ,,almond74 ,,m9t4--,all ! ,m5?idae yield fragrant ottos by di/illation4 ,! otto ( ! spe>-m9t 7,m4 viridis7 is exce$+ly p[]ful1 & v valuable = p]fum+ soap1 9 conjunction ) o!r p]fumes4 ,p]fum]s use ! ottos ( ! m9t 9 ! manufacture ( m\?-wa%es & d5tal liquids4 ,! lead+ +r$i5t 9 ! celebrat$ eau ,botot is oil ( pepp]m9t 9 alcohol4 ,a good imitation may be made ?us3-- ,,eau ,,de ,,botot4 ,t9cture ( c$> wood1 #a p9t4 myrrh1 #a oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t1 #a_/b dr4 spe> m9t1 #a_/d dr4 cloves1 #aj drops4 roses1 #aj ,modifications ( ?is =mula c be readily sugge/$1 b ! ma9 object is to reta9 ! m9t ottos1 z !y h m p[] ?an any o!r aromatic to ov]come ! smell ( tobacco4 ,m\?-wa%es1 x mu/ be rememb]$1 are z mu* us$ = r9s+ ! m\? aft] smok+ z = a d5tifrice4 ,,myrtle4--,a v fragrant otto may be procur$ by di/ill+ bo? fl[]s & leaves ( ! common myrtle2 "o hundr$-weight w yield ab\t five ounces ( ! volatile oil4 ,! dem& = ess5ce ( myrtle be+ v limit$1 ! odor z f\nd 9 ! p]fum]s' %ops is v r>ely a g5u9e article1 b x is imitat$ ?us3-- ,,imitation ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,myrtle4 ,extract ( vanilla1 #a_/b p9t4 roses #a ,extract ( fleur d'orange1 #a_/b p9t4 tub]euse1 #a_/b jasm9e1 #b oz4 ,mix & all[ to /& = a =tnight3 x is !n fit = bottl+1 & is a p]fume t gives a great deal ( satisfaction4 ,myrtle-fl[] wat] is sold 9 ,france "u ! "n ( eau d'ange1 & may be prep>$ l rose1 eld]1 or o!r fl[] wat]s4 ,,n]oli1 ,,or ,,orange-,,fl[]4--,two di/9ct odors are procurable f ! orange-blossom1 v>y+ accord+ to ! me?ods adopt$ = procur+ !m4 ,?is diff]5ce ( p]fume f ! same fl[] is a great advantage to ! manufactur]4 ,?is curi\s fact is wor?y ( inquiry by ! *emical philosoph]4 ,x is n peculi> to ! orange-fl[]1 b applies to _m o!rs1 especially rose--probably to all fl[]s4 ,:5 orange-fl[]s are treat$ by ! mac]ation process1 t is1 by infusion 9 a fatty body1 we procure orange-fl[] pomatum1 its /r5g? & quality be+ regulat$ by ! numb] ( infusions ( ! fl[] made 9 ! same grease4 ,by dige/+ ?is orange-fl[] pomatum 9 rectifi$ spirits 9 ! proportions ( f six p\nds to eight p\nds ( pomade to a gallon ( _s1 = ab\t a =tnight at a summ] heat1 we obta9 ! extrait de fleur d'orange1 or extract ( orange-fl[]s1 a h&k]*ief p]fume surpass$ by none4 ,9 ?is /ate its odor resembles ! orig9al s mu*1 t ) clos$ eyes ! be/ judge c\ld n di/+ui% ! sc5t ( ! extract f t ( ! fl[]4 ,! peculi> fl[]y odor ( ?is extract r5d]s x valuable to p]fum]s1 n only to sell 9 a pure /ate1 b slightly modifi$ ) o!r extraits passes = sweet pea1 magnolia1 c41 :i* x slightly resembles 9 fragrance4 ,illu/ration3 ,orange4 ,n[1 :5 orange-fl[]s are di/ill$ ) wat]1 we procure ! otto ( ! blossom1 :i* is kn[n comm]cially z oil ( n]oli4 ,! n]oli procur$ f ! fl[]s ( ! ,citrus aurantium is consid]$ to be ! f9e/ quality1 & is call$ n]oli petale4 ,! next quality1 n]oli big>ade1 is d]iv$ f ! blossoms ( ! ,citrus big>adia1 or ,seville orange4 ,ano!r quality1 :i* is consid]$ inf]ior to ! prec$+1 is ! n]oli petit gra91 obta9$ by di/ill+ ! leaves & ! "y unripe fruit ( ! diff]5t species ( ! citrus4 ,! petale & big>ade n]oli are us$ to an enorm\s ext5t 9 ! manufacture ( eau de ,cologne & o!r h&k]*ief p]fumes4 ,! petit gra9 is ma9ly consum$ = sc5t+ soap4 ,to =m ! esprit de n]oli1 dissolve #a-a_/b oz4 ( n]oli petale 9 "o gallon ( rectifi$ spirits4 ,al?\gh v agreeable1 & ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( b\quets1 x has no relation to ! fl[]y odor ( ! extrait de fleur d'orange1 z d]iv$ f ! same fl[]s by mac]ation2 9 fact1 x has z diff]5t an odor z ?\gh obta9$ f ano!r plant1 yet 9 !ory bo? ^! extraits are b alcoholic solutions ( ! otto ( ! fl[]4 ,! wat] us$ = di/illation 9 procur+ ! n]oli1 :5 well fre$ f ! oil1 is import$ into ?is c\ntry "u ! "n ( eau de fleur d'orange1 & may be us$1 l eld]-fl[] & rose-wat]1 = ! sk91 & z an eye lotion4 ,x is rem>kable = its f9e fragrance1 & x is a/oni%+ t x is n m us$1 be+ mod]ate 9 price4 7,see ,syr+a47 ,,nutmeg4--,! beautiful odor ( ! nutmeg is famili> to all4 ,?\gh an otto c be drawn f !m ( a v fragrant "*1 x is r>ely us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,! gr\nd nuts are1 h[ev]1 us$ advantage\sly 9 ! comb9ations ( sc5t$ p[d]s us$ = sc5t bags4--,see ,sa*et's ,p[d]s4 ,,olibanum is a gum res91 us$ to a limit$ ext5t 9 ?is c\ntry1 9 ! manufacture ( inc5se & pa/illes4 ,x is *iefly int]e/+ z be+ "o ( ^? odorif]\s bodies ( :i* frequ5t m5tion is made 9 ! ,holy volume4,c ,x is believ$1 says ,burnett1 to h be5 "o ( ! +r$i5ts 9 ! sweet inc5se ( ! ,jews2 & x is /ill burnt z inc5se 9 ! ,greek & ,romi% *ur*es1 :]e ! diffusion ( su* odors r\nd ! alt> =ms a "p ( ! prescrib$ religi\s s]vice4 ,olibanum is p>tially soluble 9 alcohol1 &1 l mo/ ( ! balsams1 probably owes its p]fume to a peculi> odorif]\s body1 associat$ ) ! b5zoic acid x conta9s4 ,= mak+ ! t9cture or extract ( olibanum1 take #a p\nd ( ! gum to #a gallon ( ! _s4 ,,orange4--,"u ! title ,n]oli we h already spok5 ( ! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( ! orange-blossom4 ,we h n[ to speak ( :at is kn[n 9 ! m>ket z ,ess5ce ( ,orange1 or1 z x is m frequ5tly t]m$1 ,ess5ce ( ,portugal1--a "n1 h[ev]1 :i* we _c admit 9 a classifi$ li/ ( ! odors ( plants4 ,! otto ( orange-peel1 or odorif]\s pr9ciple ( ! orange fruit1 is procur$ by expression & by di/illation4 ,! peel is rasp$ 9 ord] to cru% ! little vessels or sacs t imprison ! otto4 ,its abundance 9 ! peel is %[n by p9*+ a piece ne> ! flame ( a c&le2 ! otto t spirts out ignites ) a brilliant illum9ation4 ,x has _m uses 9 p]fum]y1 & f its refre%+ fragrance f9ds _m admir]s4 ,x is ! lead+ +r$i5t 9 :at is sold z ,lisbon ,wat] & ,eau de ,portugal4 ,! foll[+ is a v useful =m = prep>+ ,,lisbon ,,wat]4 ,rectifi$ _s 7n less ?an #fj ov] pro(71 #a gallon4 ,otto ( orange peel1 #c oz4 lemon peel1 #c oz4 rose #a_/d oz4 ,?is is a =m = ,,eau ,,de ,,portugal4 ,rectifi$ _s 7#fj ov] pro(71 #a gallon4 ,ess5tial oil ( orange peel1 #f oz4 lemon peel1 #a oz4 lemon grass1 #a_/d oz4 b]gamot1 #a oz4 otto ( rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,x %\ld be not$ t ^! p]fumes are nev] to be fill$ into wet bottles1 = if 9 any way damp f wat]1 a m9ute portion ( ! ottos are sep>at$1 :i* gives an opalesc5t appe>ance to ! mixture4 ,inde$1 all bottles %\ld be _s r9s$ prior to be+ fill$ ) any p]fume1 b especially ) ^? conta9+ ess5ces ( orange or lemon peel4 ,,orris1 prop]ly ,,iris4--,! dri$ rhizome ( ,iris flor5t9a has a v pleasant odor1 :i*1 = ! want ( a bett] comp>ison1 is said to resemble ! smell ( violets2 x is1 h[ev]1 exce$+ly d]ogatory to ! *>m+ aroma ( t mode/ fl[] :5 su* invidi\s comp>isons are made4 ,nev]!less ! p]fume ( iris root is good1 & well wor?y ( ! place x has obta9$ z a p]fum+ sub/ance4 ,! p[d] ( orris root is v ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( sa*et p[d]s1 too?-p[d]1 c4 ,x fa!rs t celebrat$ ori5tal h]b kn[n z ,odonto4 ,= t9cture ( orris1 or1 z ! p]fum]s call x1 ,,extract ,,( ,,orris1 ,take orris root1 cru%$1 #g lbs4 ,rectifi$ spirits1 #a gallon4 ,aft] /&+ toge!r = ab\t a =tnight1 ! extract is fit to take (f4 ,x requires consid]able "t to dra9 away1 &1 to prev5t loss1 ! rema9d] ( ! orris %\ld be plac$ 9 ! t9cture press4 ,?is extract ent]s into ! composition ( _m ( ! mo/ celebrat$ b\quets1 su* z ,jockey ,club1 & o!rs1 b is nev] sold alone1 because its odor1 al?\gh grateful1 is n suffici5tly good to /& public op9ion ^u its own m]its2 b 9 comb9ation its value is v great2 possess+ little aroma itself1 yet x has ! p[] ( /r5g!n+ ! odor ( o!r fragrant bodies2 l ! fl9t & /eel1 :i* ?\gh comp>atively incombu/ible1 readily fire inflammable bodies4 ,,palm4--,! odor ( palm oil--! fat oil ( comm]ce--is due to a fragrant pr9ciple :i* x conta9s4 ,by infusion 9 alcohol1 ! odorif]\s body is dissolv$1 & resembles1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 ! t9cture ( orris1 or ( extract ( violet1 b is v indiff]5t1 & is n likely to be br\ght into use1 ?\gh sev]al attempts h be5 made to r5d] x ( s]vice :5 ! cultivation ( ! violets h fail$ f bad seasons4 ,,pat*\ly4--,pogo/emon pat*\ly 7,,l9dley71 ,plectran?us crassifolius 7,,burnett71 is an h]b t gr[s ext5sively 9 ,india & ,*9a4 ,x some:at resembles our g>d5 sage 9 its gr[? & =m1 b ! leaves are n s fle%y4 ,illu/ration3 ,pat*\ly4 ,! odor ( pat*\ly is due to an otto conta9$ 9 ! leaves & /ems1 & is readily procur$ by di/illation4 #a cwt4 ( good h]b w yield ab\t #bh oz4 ( ! ess5tial oil1 :i* is ( a d>k br[n color1 & ( a d5sity ab\t ! same z t ( oil ( s&al wood1 :i* x resembles 9 its physical "*4 ,its odor is ! mo/ p[]ful ( any d]iv$ f ! botanic k+dom2 h5ce1 if mix$ 9 ! proportion ( measure = measure1 x completely cov]s ! smell ( all o!r bodies4 ,,extract ,,( ,,pat*\ly4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a gallon4 ,otto ( pat*\ly1 #a-a_/d oz4 rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,! ess5ce ( pat*\ly ?us made is t :i* is f\nd 9 ! p]fum]s' %ops ( ,p>is & ,london4 ,al?\gh few p]fumes h _h su* a fa%ionable run1 yet :5 smell$ at 9 its pure /ate1 x is f> f agreeable1 hav+ a k9d ( mossy or mu/y odor1 analog\s to ,lycopodium1 or1 z "s say1 x smells ( old coats4 ,! *>act]i/ic smell ( ,*9ese or ,indian ink is due to "s admixture ( ?is h]b4 ,! orig9 ( ! use ( pat*\ly z a p]fume 9 ,europe is curi\s4 ,a few ye>s ago real ,indian %awls bore an extravagant price1 & pur*as]s c\ld always di/+ui% !m by _! odor2 9 fact1 !y 7 p]fum$ ) pat*\ly4 ,! ,fr5* manufactur]s _h = "s "t successfully imitat$ ! ,indian fabric1 b c\ld n imp>t ! odor4 ,at l5g? !y discov]$ ! secret1 & began to import ! plant to p]fume articles ( _! make1 & ?us palm (f homespun %awls z real ,indian6 ,f ?is orig9 ! p]fum]s h br\ght x into use4 ,pat*\ly h]b is ext5sively us$ = sc5t+ draw]s 9 :i* l95 is kept2 = ?is purpose x is be/ to p[d] ! leaves & put !m into musl9 sacks1 cov]$ ) silk1 aft] ! mann] ( ! old-fa%ion$ lav5d]-bag4 ,9 ?is /ate x is v efficaci\s 9 prev5t+ ! clo!s f be+ attack$ by mo?s4 ,sev]al comb9ations ( pat*\ly w be giv5 9 ! recipes = b\quets & nosegays4 ,,pea 7,,sweet74--,a v f9e odor may be ab/ract$ f ! fl[]s ( ! *ick-vet* by mac]ation 9 any fatty body1 & !n dige/+ ! pomade produc$ 9 _s4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 r>ely manufactur$1 because a v close ,,imitation ,,( ,,! ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,sweet ,,pea4 c be prep>$ ?us3-- ,extract ( tub]ose1 #a_/b p9t4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/b rose f pomatum1 #a_/b vanilla1 #a oz4 ,sc5ts1 l s\nds1 appe> to influ5ce ! olfactory n]ve 9 c]ta9 def9ite degrees4 ,!re is1 z x 71 an octave ( odors l an octave 9 music2 c]ta9 odors co9cide1 l ! keys ( an in/rum5t4 ,su* z almond1 heliotrope1 vanilla1 & orange-blossoms bl5d toge!r1 ea* produc+ diff]5t degrees ( a ne>ly simil> impression4 ,aga91 we h citron1 lemon1 orange-peel1 & v]b5a1 =m+ a high] octave ( smells1 :i* bl5d 9 a simil> mann]4 ,! metaphor is complet$ by :at we are pleas$ to call semi-odors1 su* z rose & rose g]anium = ! half note2 petty gra91 n]oli1 a black key1 foll[$ by fleur d'orange4 ,!n we h pat*\li1 s&al-wood1 & vitiv]t1 & _m o!rs runn+ into ea* o!r4 ,f ! odors already kn[n we may produce1 by unit+ !m 9 prop] proportion1 ! smell ( almo/ any fl[]1 except jasm9e4 ,! odor ( "s fl[]s resembles o!rs s ne>ly t we are almo/ induc$ to believe !m to be ! same ?+1 or1 at lea/1 if n evolv$ f ! plant z su*1 to become s by ! action ( ! air-oxidation4 ,x is kn[n t "s actually are id5tical 9 composition1 al?\gh produc$ f totally diff]5t plants1 su* z camphor1 turp5t9e1 rosem>y4 ,h5ce we may presume t *emi/ry w soon] or lat] produce "o f ! o!r1 = ) _m x is m]ely an atom ( wat] or an atom ( oxyg5 t causes ! diff]5ce4 ,x w\ld be a gr& ?+ to produce otto ( roses f oil ( rosem>y1 or f ! rose g]anium oil1 & !ory indicates its possibility4 ,! ess5tial oil ( almonds 9 a bottle t conta9s a good deal ( air-oxyg51 & b a v little ( ! oil1 spontane\sly passes into ano!r odorif]\s body1 b5zoic acid2 :i* is se5 9 cry/als to =m ov] ! dry p>ts ( ! flask4 ,?is is a natural illu/ration ( ?is idea4 ,9 giv+ ! recipe = sweet pea z above1 we =m x ) ! impression t its odor resembles ! orange-blossom1 :i* simil>ity is approa*$ ne>] by ! addition ( ! rose & tub]ose4 ,! vanilla is us$ m]ely to give p]man5ce to ! sc5t on ! h&k]*ief1 & ?is latt] body is *os5 9 pref]5ce to extract ( musk or amb]gris1 :i* w\ld answ] ! same purpose ( giv+ p]man5ce to ! m volatile +r$i5ts2 because ! vanilla /rikes ! same key ( ! olfactory n]ve z ! orange-blossom1 & ?us no new idea ( a diff]5t sc5t is br\ght ab\t z ! p]fume dies (f f ! h&k]*ief4 ,:5 p]fumes are n mix$ ^u ?is pr9ciple1 !n we he> t su* & su* a p]fume becomes sickly or fa9t aft] !y h be5 on ! h&k]*ief a %ort "t4 ,,p9e-,,apple4--,bo? ,dr4 ,h(fman & ,dr4 ,lyon ,playfair h fall5 into "s error 9 _! inf]5ces ) reg>d to ! application ( ?is odor 9 p]fum]y4 ,aft] v>i\s practical exp]im5ts conduct$ 9 a l>ge p]fumatory1 we h come to ! conclusion t x _c be s appli$1 simply because :5 ! ess5ce ( p9e-apple is smell$ at1 ! vapor produces an involunt>y action ( ! l>ynx1 produc+ c\gh1 :5 exce$+ly dilute4 ,ev5 9 ! inf9itesimal portions x /ill produces disagreeable irritation ( ! air-pipes1 :i*1 if prolong$1 su* z is expect$ if us$ ^u a h&k]*ief1 is foll[$ by int5se heada*e4 ,x is obvi\s1 !re=e1 t ! legitimate use ( ! ess5ce ( p9e-apple 7butyric e!r7 _c be adapt$ ) b5efit to ! manufactur+ p]fum]1 al?\gh invaluable to ! confection] z a flavor+ mat]ial4 ,:at we h "h said ref]s to ! artificial ess5ce ( p9e-apple1 or butyrate ( e?yloxide1 :i*1 if v mu* dilut$ ) alcohol1 resembles ! smell ( p9e-apple1 & h5ce its "n2 b h[ f> ! same obs]vations are applicable to ! true ess5tial oil f ! fruit or epid]mis ( ! p9e-apple1 rema9s to be se5 :5 we procure x4 ,z ! ,we/ ,indian p9e-apples are n[ com+ freely into ! m>ket1 ! day is probably n di/ant :5 demon/rative exp]im5ts c be tri$2 b hi!rto x mu/ be rememb]$ our exp]im5ts h only be5 p]=m$ ) a body resembl+ 9 smell ! true ess5tial oil ( ! fruit4 ,! physical action ( all e!rs ^u ! human body is q suffici5t to prev5t _! application 9 p]fum]y1 h[ev] useful 9 confection>y1 :i* x is und]/ood has to deal ) ano!r ( ! s5ses1--n ( smell1 b ( ta/e4 ,! comm]cial ess5ce ( p9e-apple1 or p9e-apple oil1 & j>gonelle pe>-oil1 are admitt$ only to be labell$ su*1 b really are c]ta9 organic acid e!rs4 ,= ! pres5t1 !n1 p]fum]s mu/ only look on ^! bodies z s _m l9es 9 ! ,poetry ( ,sci5ce1 :i*1 = ! pres5t1 are )\t practical application 9 8 art4 ,,p9k4--,dian?us ,c>yophyllus4--,! clove p9k emits a mo/ fragrant odor1 especially at night1 says ,d>w94 ,! lavi% p9k t sc5ts ! g>d5 r\nd1 is n1 h[ev]1 at pres5t appli$ 9 p]fum]y1 except 9 "n4 ,,imitation ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,clove ,,p9k4 ,esprit rose1 #a_/b p9t4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/d de cassie1 #a_/d vanilla1 #b oz4 ,oil ( cloves1 #aj drops4 ,x is rem>kable h[ v mu* ?is mixture resembles ! odor ( ! fl[]1 & ! public nev] d\bt its be+ ! real ?+4 ,,rhodium4--,:5 rose-wood1 ! lignum ( ! ,convolvulus scop>ius1 is di/ill$1 a sweet-smell+ oil is procur$1 resembl+ 9 "s slight degree ! fragrance ( ! rose1 & h5ce its "n4 ,at "o "t1 t is1 prior to ! cultivation ( ! rose-leaf g]anium1 ! di/illates f rose-wood & f ! root ( ! ,g5i/a can>i5sis 7,can>y-rose-wood71 7 pr9cipally drawn = ! adult]ation ( real otto ( roses1 b z ! g]anium oil answ]s s mu* bett]1 ! oil ( rhodium has fall5 into disuse1 h5ce its comp>ative sc>city 9 ! m>ket at ! pres5t day1 ?\gh our gr&fa!rs knew x well4 ,"o cwt4 ( wood yields ab\t ?ree ounces ( oil4 ,gr\nd rose-wood is valuable z a basis 9 ! manufacture ( sa*et p[d]s = p]fum+ ! w>drobe4 ,! ,fr5* h giv5 ! "n jac>&a to rose-wood1 "u ! idea t ! plant call$ jac>&a by ! ,brazilians yields x1 :i* is n ! case2 ! same ^w has p]haps be5 ! orig9 ( palis&]--palix&]1 badly writt54--,burnett4 ,,rose4-- ,g1 crop ! gay rose's v]meil bloom1 ,& waft its spoils1 a sweet p]fume1 ,9 inc5se to ! skies4 ,,ogilvie4 ,?is que5 ( ! g>d5 loses n its diadem 9 ! p]fum+ _w4 ,! oil ( roses1 or1 z x is commonly call$1 ! otto1 or att>1 ( roses1 is procur$ 7contr>y to s _m opposite /atem5ts7 simply by di/ill+ ! roses ) wat]4 ,! otto1 or att>1 ( rose ( comm]ce is d]iv$ f ! ,rosa c5tifolia prov9cialis4 ,v ext5sive rose f>ms exi/ at ,adrianople 7,turkey 9 ,europe72 at ,br\ssa1 n[ fam\s z ! resid5ce ( ,abd-el-,kad]2 & at ,uslak 7,turkey 9 ,asia72 also at ,ghazepore1 9 ,india4 ,! cultivators 9 ,turkey are pr9cipally ! ,*ri/ian inhabitants ( ! l[ c\ntries ( ! ,balkan1 betwe5 ,selimno1 & ,c>loya1 z f> z ,philippopolis1 9 ,bulg>ia1 ab\t #bjj miles f ,con/ant9ople4 ,9 good seasons1 ?is di/rict yields #ge1jjj ounces2 b 9 bad seasons only #bj1jjj to #cj1jjj ounces ( att> are obta9$4 ,x is e/imat$ t x requires at lea/ #bjjj rose blooms to yield "o dra*m ( otto4 ,! otto slightly v>ies 9 odor f diff]5t di/ricts2 _m places furni% an otto :i* solidifies m readily ?an o!rs1 &1 !re=e1 ?is is n a sure guide ( purity1 ?\gh _m consid] x su*4 ,t :i* 0 exhibit$ 9 ! ,cry/al ,palace ( #ahea1 z f ,ghazepore1 9 ,india1 obta9$ ! prize4 ,att> ( roses1 made 9 ,ca%m]e1 is consid]$ sup]ior to any o!r2 a circum/ance n surpris+1 z1 accord+ to ,hugel1 ! fl[] is "h produc$ ( surpass+ fragrance z well z beauty4 ,a l>ge quantity ( rose-wat] twice di/ill$ is all[$ to run (f into an op5 vessel1 plac$ ov] night 9 a cool runn+ /ream1 & 9 ! morn+ ! oil is f\nd float+ on ! surface 9 m9ute specks1 :i* are tak5 (f v c>efully by means ( a blade ( sword-lily4 ,:5 cool x is ( a d>k gre5 color1 & z h>d z res91 n becom+ liquid at a temp]ature ab\t t ( boil+ wat]4 ,betwe5 #ejj & #fjj p\nds' weight ( leaves is requir$ to produce "o ounce ( ! att>4--,indian ,encyclopa$ia4 ,pure otto ( roses1 f its cloy+ sweetness1 has n _m admir]s2 :5 dilut$1 h[ev]1 !re is no?+ to equal x 9 odor1 especially if mix$ 9 soap1 to =m rose soap1 or 9 pure _s1 to =m ! esprit de rose4 ,! soap n all[+ ! p]fume to evaporate v fa/1 we _c be surfeit$ ) ! smell ( ! otto4 ,! f9e/ prep>ation ( rose z an odor is made at ,grasse1 9 ,france4 ,"h ! fl[]s are n treat$ = ! otto1 b are subject$ to ! process ( mac]ation 9 fat1 or 9 oil1 z describ$ "u jasm9e1 heliotrope1 c4 ,! rose pomade ?us made1 if dige/$ 9 alcohol1 say #h lbs4 ( ,no4 #bd ,pomade to "o gallon ( _s1 yields an esprit de rose ( ! fir/ ord]1 v sup]ior to t :i* is made by ! addition ( otto to _s4 ,x is difficult to acc\nt = ?is diff]5ce1 b x is suffici5tly *>act]i/ic to =m a di/9ct odor4 ,see ! article on fleur d'orange & n]oli 7pp4 #gg1 #gh71 :i* h simil> qualities1 previ\sly describ$4 ,! esprit de rose made f ! ,fr5* rose pomade is nev] sold retail by ! p]fum]2 he res]ves ?is to =m "p ( 8 re*]*e b\quets4 ,"s :olesale druggi/s h1 h[ev]1 be5 sell+ x n[ = "s "t to c\ntry practition]s1 = !m to =m extemporane\s rose-wat]1 :i* x does to great p]fection4 ,roses are cultivat$ to a l>ge ext5t 9 ,engl&1 ne> ,mit*am1 9 ,surrey1 = p]fum]s' use1 to make rose-wat]4 ,9 ! season :5 successive crops c be got1 :i* is ab\t ! end ( ,june1 or ! e>ly "p ( ,july1 !y are ga!r$ z soon z ! dew is (f1 & s5t to t[n 9 sacks4 ,:5 !y arrive1 !y are imm$iately spread out ^u a cool floor3 o!rwise1 if left 9 a heap1 !y heat to su* an ext5t1 9 two or ?ree h\rs1 z to be q spoil$4 ,!re is no organic matt] :i* s rapidly absorbs oxyg51 & becomes heat$ spontane\sly1 z a mass ( fre%ly ga!r$ roses4 ,to pres]ve ^! roses1 ! ,london p]fum]s imm$iately pickle !m2 = ?is purpose1 ! leaves are sep>at$ f ! /alks1 & to e bu%el ( fl[]s1 equal to ab\t six p\nds' weight1 "o p\nd ( common salt is ?or\ghly rubb$ 94 ,! salt absorbs ! wat] exi/+ 9 ! petals1 & rapidly becomes br9e1 r$uc+ ! :ole to a pa/y mass1 :i* is f9ally /[$ away 9 casks4 ,9 ?is way !y w keep almo/ any l5g? ( "t1 )\t ! fragrance be+ s]i\sly injur$4 ,a good rose-wat] c be prep>$ by di/ill+ #ab lbs4 ( pickl$ roses1 & #b-a_/b gallons ( wat]4 ,draw (f two gallons2 ! product w be ! d\ble-di/ill$ rose-wat] ( ! %ops4 ,! rose-wat] t is import$ f ! ,s\? ( ,france is1 h[ev]1 v sup]ior 9 odor to any t c be produc$ "h4 ,z x is a residu>y product ( ! di/illation ( roses = procur+ ! att>1 x has a ri*ness ( aroma :i* appe>s to be inimitable ) ,engli%-gr[n roses4 ,!re are f\r modifications ( ess5ce ( rose = ! h&k]*ief1 :i* are ! ne plus ultra ( ! p]fum]'s art4 ,!y are1--esprit de rose triple1 ess5ce ( :ite ( roses1 ess5ce ( tea rose1 & ess5ce ( moss rose4 ,! foll[+ are ! recipes = _! =mation3-- ,,esprit ,,de ,,rose ,,triple4 ,rectifi$ alcohol1 #a gallon4 ,otto ( rose1 #c oz4 ,mix at a summ] heat2 9 ! c\rse ( a qu>t] ( an h\r ! :ole ( ! otto is dissolv$1 & is !n ready = bottl+ & sale4 ,9 ! w9t] season beautiful cry/als ( ! otto--if x is good--appe> dissem9at$ ?r\gh ! esprit4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,moss ,,rose4 ,spiritu\s extract f ,fr5* ,rose pomatum1 #a qu>t4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a p9t4 ,extracts fleur d'orange pomatum1 #a ( amb]gris1 #a_/b musk1 #d oz4 ,all[ ! +r$i5ts to rema9 toge!r = a =tnight2 !n filt]1 if requisite1 & x is ready = sale4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,:ite ,,rose4 ,esprit de rose f pomatum1 #a qu>t4 triple1 #a violette1 #a ,extracts ( jasm9e #a p9t4 pat*\ly1 #a_/b ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,tea ,,rose4 ,esprit de rose pomade1 #a p9t4 triple1 #a ,extract ( rose-leaf g]anium1 #a s&al-wood1 #a_/b n]oli1 #a_/d orris1 #a_/d ,,rosem>y4-- ,!re's rosem>y1 t's = remembrance4 ,,%akspe>e4 ,by di/ill+ ! ,rosm>9us (fic9alis a ?9 limpid otto is procur$1 hav+ ! *>act]i/ic odor ( ! plant1 :i* is m aromatic ?an sweet4 ,"o cwt4 ( ! fre% h]b yields ab\t tw5ty-f\r ounces ( oil4 ,otto ( rosem>y is v ext5sively us$ 9 p]fum]y1 especially 9 comb9ation ) o!r ottos = sc5t+ soap4 ,eau de ,cologne _c be made )\t x1 & 9 ! once fam\s ,hung>y wat] x is ! lead+ +r$i5t4 ,! foll[+ is ! composition ( ,,hung>y ,,wat]4 ,rectifi$ alcohol1 #a gallon4 ,otto ( ,engli% rosem>y1 #b oz4 lemon-peel1 #a oz4 balm 7,melissa71 #a oz4 m9t1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,esprit de rose1 #a p9t4 ,extract ( fleur d'orange1 #a ,x is put up = sale 9 a simil> way to eau de ,cologne1 & is said to take its "n f "o ( ! que5s ( ,hung>y1 :o is report$ to h d]iv$ great b5efit f a ba? conta9+ x1 at ! age ( sev5ty-five ye>s4 ,!re is no d\bt t cl]gym5 & orators1 :ile speak+ = any "t1 w\ld d]ive great b5efit f p]fum+ _! h&k]*ief ) ,hung>y wat] or eau de ,cologne1 z ! rosem>y !y conta9 excites ! m9d to vigor\s action1 suffici5t ( ! /imulant be+ inhal$ by occasionally wip+ ! face ) ! h&k]*ief wett$ ) ^! wat]s4 ,%akspe>e giv+ u ! key1 we c und]/& h[ x is t su* p]fumes conta9+ rosem>y are univ]sally said to be s refre%+6 ,,sage4--,a p[]ful-sc5t+ otto c be procur$ by di/illation f any ( ! ,salvieae4 ,x is r>ely us$1 b is nev]!less v valuable 9 comb9ation = sc5t+ soap4 ,dri$ sage-leaves1 gr\nd1 w comp\nd well = sa*ets4 ,,santal4--,santalum album4 ,! santal tree p]fumes1 :5 riv51 ,! axe t laid x l[4 ,,cam]on4 ,?is is an old favorite ) ! lov]s ( sc5t2 x is ! wood t possesses ! odor4 ,! f9e/ santal-wood gr[s 9 ! isl& ( ,timor1 & ! ,santal-wood ,isl&s1 :]e x is ext5sively cultivat$ = ! ,*9ese m>ket4 ,9 ! religi\s c]emonies ( ! ,brahm9s1 ,h9doos1 & ,*9ese1 santal-wood is burn$1 by way ( inc5se1 to an ext5t almo/ beyond belief4 ,! ,santala grew pl5tifully 9 ,*9a1 b ! cont9u$ (f]+s to ! ,buddahs h almo/ ext]m9at$ ! plant f ! ,cele/ial ,empire2 & su* is ! dem&1 t x is ab\t to be cultivat$ 9 ,we/]n ,au/ralia1 9 ! expectation ( a pr(itable return1 :i* we d\bt n w be realiz$2 ,engl& alone w\ld consume t5fold ! quantity x does 7 its price )9 ! range ( o!r p]fum+ sub/ances4 ,! otto :i* exi/s 9 ! santal-wood is readily procur$ by di/illation2 #a cwt4 ( good wood w yield ab\t #cj ounces ( otto4 ,illu/ration3 ,santal-wood4 ,! :ite ant1 :i* is s common 9 ,india & ,*9a1 eat+ into e organic matt] t x comes across1 appe>s to h no reli% = santal-wood2 h5ce x is frequ5tly made into caskets1 jewel-boxes1 de$-cases1 c4 ,?is quality1 toge!r ) its fragrance1 r5d]s x a valuable article to ! cab9et-mak]s ( ! ,ea/4 ,! otto ( santal is rem>kably d5se1 & is above all o!rs oleag9\s 9 its appe>ance1 &1 :5 good1 is ( a d>k /raw color4 ,:5 dissolv$ 9 _s1 x ent]s into ! composition ( a great _m ( ! old-fa%ion$ b\quets1 su* z ,m>e*ale1 & o!rs1 ! =mulae ( :i* w be giv5 h]eaft]4 ,p]fum]s ?us make :at is call$ ,,extrait ,,de ,,bois ,,de ,,santal4 ,rectifi$ spirits1 #g p9ts4 ,esprit de rose1 #a p9t4 ,ess5tial oil1 i4e4 otto1 ( santal1 #c oz4 ,all ^? ,,extracts1 made by dissolv+ ! otto 9 alcohol1 are ne>ly :ite1 or at lea/ only slightly t9t$ by ! color ( ! oil us$4 ,:5 a p]fum] has to imp>t a delicate odeur to a lady's m\*oir1 :i* 9 "s in/ances co/s no end ( money1 & is an object1 at any co/1 to reta9 unsulli$1 x behooves 8 reputation to sell an article t w n /a9 a delicate :ite fabric4 ,n[1 :5 a p]fume is made 9 a direct mann] f any wood or h]b1 z t9ctures are made1 t is1 by infusion 9 alcohol1 !re is obta9$1 besides ! odorif]\s sub/ance1 a solution ( color+ & extractive matt]1 :i* is exce$+ly detrim5tal to its fragrance1 besides s]i\sly /a9+ any cambric h&k]*ief t x may be us$ ^u2 & = ?is reason ?is latt] me?od %\ld nev] be adopt$1 except = use ^u silk h&k]*iefs4 ,! odor ( santal assimilates well ) rose2 & h5ce1 prior to ! cultivation ( rose-leaf g]anium1 x 0 us$ to adult]ate otto ( roses2 b is n[ b seldom us$ = t purpose4 ,by a phonetic error1 santal is (t5 pr9t$ s&al1 & s&el4 ,,sassafras4--,"s ( ! p]fum]s ( ,g]many use a t9cture ( ! wood ( ! ,laurus sassafras 9 ! manufacture ( hair-wa%es & o!r no/rums2 b z1 9 our op9ion1 x has r a physicky smell ?an fl[]y1 we _c recomm5d ! ,g]man recipes4 ,! ,eau ,a!ni5ne1 not)/&+1 has "s reputation z a hair-wat]1 b is little else ?an a weak t9cture ( sassafras4 ,,spike4--,fr5* oil ( lav5d]1 :i* is procur$ f ! ,lav&ula spica1 is g5]ally call$ oil ( spike4 7,see ,lav5d]47 ,,/orax & ,,tolu are us$ 9 p]fum]y 9 ! same way z b5zo91 namely1 by solution 9 _s z a t9cture4 ,an ounce ( t9cture ( /orax1 tolu1 or b5zo91 be+ add$ to a p\nd ( any v volatile p]fume1 gives a degree ( p]man5ce to x1 & makes x la/ long] on ! h&k]*ief ?an x o!rwise w\ld3 ?us1 :5 any p]fume is made by ! solution ( an otto 9 _s1 x is usual to add to x a small portion ( a sub/ance :i* is less volatile1 su* z extract ( musk1 extract ( vanilla1 amb]gris1 /orax1 tolu1 orris1 vitiv]t1 or b5zo92 ! manufactur] us+ 8 judgm5t & discretion z to :i* ( ^! mat]ials are to be employ$1 *oos+1 ( c\rse1 ^? :i* are mo/ compatible ) ! odor he is mak+4 ,! p[] :i* ^! bodies h ( fix+ a volatile sub/ance1 r5d]s !m valuable to ! p]fum]1 indep5d5t ( _! aroma1 :i* is due 9 _m cases to b5zoic acid1 slightly modifi$ by an es5tial oil peculi> to ea* sub/ance1 & :i* is tak5 up by ! alcohol1 toge!r ) a portion ( res94 ,:5 ! p]fume is put ^u a h&k]*ief1 ! mo/ volatile bodies disappe> fir/3 ?us1 aft] ! alcohol has evaporat$1 ! odor ( ! ottos appe> /rong]2 if x conta9s any res9\s body1 ! ottos are held 9 solution1 z x 71 by ! res91 & ?us reta9$ on ! fabric4 ,suppos+ a p]fume to be made ( otto only1 )\t any fix+ sub/ance1 !n1 z ! p]fume dies away1 ! olfactory n]ve1 if tutor$1 w detect its composition1 = x spontane\sly analyzes itself1 no two ottos hav+ ! same volatility3 ?us1 make a mixture ( rose1 jasm9e1 & pat*\ly2 ! jasm9e pr$om9ates fir/1 !n ! rose1 &1 la/ly1 ! pat*\ly1 :i* w be f\nd h\rs aft] ! o!rs h disappe>$4 ,,syr+a4--,! fl[]s ( ! ,philadelphus coron>ius1 or common g>d5 syr+a1 h an int5se odor resembl+ ! orange-blossom2 s mu* s1 t 9 ,am]ica ! plant is (t5 t]m$ mock orange4 ,a great deal ( ! pomatum sold z pommade surf91 a la fleur d'orange1 by ! manufactur]s ( ,cannes1 is no?+ m ?an f9e suet p]fum$ ) syr+a blossoms by ! mac]ation process4 ,f9e syr+a pomade c\ld be made 9 ,engl& at a qu>t] ! co/ ( :at is paid = ! s-call$ orange pomatum4 ,,?yme4--,all ! diff]5t species ( ?yme1 b m p>ticul>ly ! lemon ?yme1 ! ,?ymus s]pyllum1 z well z ! m>jorams1 origanum1 c41 yield by di/illation fragrant ottos1 t are ext5sively us$ by manufactur+ p]fum]s = sc5t+ soaps2 ?\gh well adapt$ = ?is purpose1 !y d n answ] at all 9 any o!r comb9ations4 ,bo? 9 grease & 9 _s all ^! ottos imp>t an h]by smell 7v naturally7 r ?an a fl[]y "o1 &1 z a consequ5ce1 !y are n consid]$ re*]*e4 ,:5 any ( ^! h]bs are dri$ & gr\nd1 !y usefully ent] into ! composition ( sa*et p[d]s4 ,,tonqu91 or ,,tonka4--,! se$s ( ! ,dipt]ix odorata are ! tonqu9 or c\m>\ma beans ( comm]ce4 ,:5 fre% !y are exce$+ly fragrant1 hav+ an int5se odor ( newly made hay4 ,! ,an?oxan?um odoratum1 or sweet-smell+ v]nal grass1 to :i* new hay owes its odor1 probably yields id5tically ! same fragrant pr9ciple1 & x is rem>kable t bo? tonqu9 beans & v]nal grass1 :ile actually gr[+1 are ne>ly sc5tless1 b become rapidly aromatic :5 sev]$ f ! p>5t /ock4 ,*emically consid]$1 tonqu9 beans are v int]e/+1 conta9+1 :5 fre%1 a fragrant volatile otto 7to :i* _! odor is pr9cipally due71 b5zoic acid1 a fat oil & a neutral pr9cipal--,c\m>94 ,9 p]fum]y !y are valuable1 z1 :5 gr\nd1 !y =m ) o!r bodies an excell5t & p]man5t sa*et1 & by infusion 9 _s1 ! t9cture or extract ( tonqu9 ent]s into a ?\s& ( ! comp\nd ess5ces2 b on acc\nt ( its great /r5g? x mu/ be us$ ) caution1 o!rwise p say y\r p]fume is snuffy1 ow+ to ! pr$om9ance ( ! odor & its well-kn[n use 9 ! boxes ( ^? :o indulge 9 ! titillat+ du/4 ,illu/ration3 ,tonqu94 ,,extract ,,( ,,tonqu94 ,tonqu9 beans1 #a lb4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a gallon4 ,dige/ = a mon? at a summ] heat4 ,ev5 aft] ?is mac]ation !y are /ill useful :5 dri$ & gr\nd 9 ^? comp\nds kn[n z ,,pot ,,p\rri1 ,,olla ,,podria1 c4 ,! extract ( tonqu91 l extract ( orris & extract ( vanilla1 is nev] sold pure1 b is only us$ 9 ! manufacture ( comp\nd p]fumes4 ,x is ! lead+ +r$i5t 9 ,b\quet du ,*amp--,! field ,b\quet--! great resemblance ( :i* to ! odor ( ! hay-field1 r5d]s x a favorite to ! lov]s ( ! pa/oral4 ,,tub]ose4--,"o ( ! mo/ exquisite odors ) :i* we are acqua9t$ is obta9$ by enfleurage f ! tub]ose fl[]4 ,x is1 z x 71 a nosegay 9 itself1 & rem9ds "o ( t delightful p]fume obs]v$ 9 a well-/ock$ fl[]-g>d5 at ev5+ close2 consequ5tly x is mu* 9 dem& by ! p]fum]s = comp\nd+ sweet ess5ces4 ,,extract ,,( ,,tub]ose4 ,eight p\nds ( ,no4 #bd tub]ose pomatum1 cut up v f9e1 is to be plac$ into #a gallon ( ! be/ rectifi$ _s4 ,aft] /&+ = ?ree weeks or a mon? at summ] heat1 & ) frequ5t agitation1 x is fit to draw (f1 & be+ /ra9$ ?r\gh cotton wool1 is ready ei!r = sale or use 9 ! manufacture ( b\quets4 ,?is ess5ce ( tub]ose1 l t ( jasm9e1 is exce$+ly volatile1 & if sold 9 its pure /ate quickly flies (f ! h&k]*ief2 x is !re=e necess>y to add "s fix+ +r$i5t1 & = ?is purpose x is be/ to use "o ounce ( extract ( orris1 or half an ounce ( extract ( vanilla1 to e p9t ( tub]ose4 ,,vanilla4--,! pod or bean ( ! ,vanilla planifolia yields a p]fume ( r>e excell5ce4 ,:5 good1 & if kept = "s "t1 x becomes cov]$ ) an effloresc5ce ( ne$le cry/als possess+ prop]ties simil> to b5zoic acid1 b diff]+ f x 9 composition4 ,few objects are m beautiful to look ^u ?an ?is1 :5 view$ by a microscope ) ! aid ( pol>iz$ light4 ,illu/ration3 ,vanilla4 ,,extract ,,( ,,vanilla4 ,vanilla pods1 #a_/b lb4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a gallon4 ,slit ! pods f end to end1 s z to lay op5 ! int]ior1 !n cut !m up 9 l5g?s ( ab\t a qu>t] ( an in*1 mac]ate ) occasional agitation = ab\t a mon?2 ! t9cture ?us =m$ w only require /ra9+ ?r\gh cotton to be ready = any use t is requir$4 ,9 ?is /ate x is r>ely sold = a p]fume1 b is consum$ 9 ! manufacture ( comp\nd odors1 b\quets1 or nosegays1 z !y are call$4 ,extract ( ,vanilla is also us$ l>gely 9 ! manufacture ( hair-wa%es1 :i* are readily made by mix+ ! extract ( vanilla ) ei!r rose1 orange1 eld]1 or rosem>y wat]1 & aft]w>ds filt]+4 ,we ne$ sc>cely m5tion1 t vanilla is greatly us$ by cooks & confection]s = flavor+4 ,,v]b5a1 or ,,v]va9e4--,! sc5t$ species ( ?is plant1 ! lemon v]b5a1 ,aloysia citriodora 7,hook]71 gives "o ( ! f9e/ p]fumes ) :i* we are acqua9t$2 x is well kn[n z yield+ a delightful fragrance by m]ely draw+ ! h& ov] ! plant2 "s ( ! little vessels or sacks conta9+ ! otto mu/ be cru%$ 9 ?is act1 z !re is little or no odor by m]ely smell+ at ! plant4 ,! otto1 :i* c be extract$ f ! leaves by di/illation ) wat]1 on acc\nt ( its high price1 is sc>cely1 if ev]1 us$ by ! manufactur+ p]fum]1 b x is mo/ successfully imitat$ by mix+ ! otto ( lemon grass1 ,&ropogon s*o5an?us1 ) rectifi$ _s1 ! odor ( :i* resembles ! =m] to a nicety4 ,! foll[+ is a good =m = mak+ ! ,,extract ,,( ,,v]b5a4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t4 ,otto ( lemon grass1 #c dra*ms4 lemon peel1 #b oz4 orange peel1 #a_/b oz4 ,aft] /&+ toge!r = a few h\rs & !n filt]+1 x is fit = sale4 ,ano!r mixture ( ?is k9d1 presum$ by ! public to be made f ! same plant1 b ( a f9] quality1 is compos$ ?us--x is sold "u ! title ,,extrait ,,de ,,v]ve9e4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t4 ,otto ( orange peel1 #a oz4 lemon peel1 #b oz4 citron1 #a dra*m4 lemon grass1 #b-a_/b dra*ms4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 #g oz4 tub]euse1 #g oz4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b p9t4 ,?is mixture is exce$+ly refre%+1 & is "o ( ! mo/ elegant p]fumes t is made4 ,be+ :ite1 x does n /a9 ! h&k]*ief4 ,x is be/ :5 sold fre% made1 z by age ! citr9e oils oxidize1 & ! p]fume acquires an e!real odor1 & !n cu/om]s say x is s\r4 ,! v]va9e ?us prep>$ ent]s into ! composition ( a great _m ( ! favorite b\quets t are sold "u ! title ,c\rt ,b\quet1 & o!rs :i* are mixtures ( violet1 rose1 & jasm9e1 ) v]b5a or v]va9e 9 diff]5t proportions4 ,9 ^! prep>ations1 z also 9 ,eau de ,portugal1 & 9 fact :]e any ( ! citr9e ottos are us$1 a mu* f9] product is obta9$ by us+ grape _s or br&y 9 pref]5ce to ! ,engli% corn _s z a solv5t = !m4 ,nor d !y det]iorate s quickly 9 ,fr5* _s z 9 ,engli%4 ,:e!r ?is be due to ! oil ( w9e 7oean?ic e!r7 or n we _c say1 b ?9k x is s4 ,,violet4-- ,! =w>d violet ?us did ,i *ide3 ,sweet ?ief1 :5ce did/ ?\ /eal ?y sweet t smells1 ,if n f my love's brea?8 ,! p]fume exhal$ by ! ,viola odorata is s univ]sally admir$1 t to speak 9 its favor w\ld be m ?an sup]flu\s4 ,! dem& = ! ess5ce ( violets is f> great] ?an ! manufactur+ p]fum]s are at pres5t able to supply1 & z a consequ5ce1 x is difficult to procure ! g5u9e article ?r\gh ! ord9>y s\rces ( trade4 ,real violet is1 h[ev]1 sold by _m ( ! retail p]fum]s ( ! ,we/ ,end ( ,london1 b at a price t prohibits its use except by ! afflu5t or extravagant vot>ies ( fa%ion4 ,! violet f>ms f :5ce ! fl[]s are procur$ to make ?is p]fume are v ext5sive at ,nice & ,grasse1 also 9 ! neighborhood ( ,flor5ce4 ,! true smell+ pr9ciple or otto ( violets has nev] yet be5 isolat$3 a v conc5trat$ solution 9 alcohol impresses ! olfactory n]ve ) ! idea ( ! pres5ce ( hydrocyanic acid1 :i* is probably a true impression4 ,burnett says t ! plant ,viola tricolor 7he>t's ease71 :5 bruis$1 smells l pea* k]nels1 & d\btless1 !re=e1 conta9s prussic acid4 ,! fl[]s ( ! he>t's ease are sc5tless1 b ! plant evid5tly conta9s a pr9ciple :i* 9 o!r species ( ! ,viola1 is elim9at$ z ! sweet t smells s beautifully allud$ to by ,%akspe>e4 ,= comm]cial purposes1 ! odor ( ! violet is procur$ 9 comb9ation ) _s1 oil1 or suet1 precisely accord+ to ! me?ods previ\sly describ$ = obta9+ ! aroma ( "s o!r fl[]s be=e m5tion$1 su* z ^? = cassie1 jasm9e1 orange-fl[]1 namely1 by mac]ation1 or by enfleurage1 ! =m] me?od be+ pr9cipally adopt$1 foll[$ by1 :5 ess5ce is requir$1 dige/+ ! pomade 9 rectifi$ alcohol4 ,good ess5ce ( violets1 ?us made1 is ( a beautiful gre5 color1 &1 ?\gh ( a ri* deep t9t1 has no p[] to /a9 a :ite fabric1 & its odor is p]fectly natural4 ,! ess5ce ( violet1 z prep>$ = retail sale1 is ?us made1 accord+ to ! quality & /r5g? ( ! pomade3--,take f six to eight p\nds ( ! violet pomade1 *op x up f9e1 & place x into "o gallon ( p]fectly clean 7free f fusel oil7 rectifi$ _s1 all[ x to dige/ = ?ree weeks or a mon?1 !n /ra9 (f ! ess5ce1 & to e p9t !re( add ?ree ounces ( t9cture ( orris root1 & ?ree ounces ( esprit de cassie2 x is !n fit = sale4 ,we h (t5 se5 display$ = sale 9 druggi/s' %ops pla9 t9cture ( orris root1 done up 9 nice bottles1 ) labels ^u !m inf]r+ ! cont5ts to be ,extract ( ,violet2 cu/om]s ?us once tak5 9 are n likely to be s a second "t4 ,a good ,,imitation ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,violets is be/ prep>$ ?us-- ,spiritu\s extract ( cassie pomade1 #a p9t4 ,esprit de rose1 f pomade1 #a_/b ,t9cture ( orris1 #a_/b ,spiritu\s extract ( tub]ose pomade1 #a_/b ,otto ( almonds1 #c drops4 ,aft] filtration x is fit = bottl+4 ,9 ?is mixture1 x is ! extract ( cassie :i* has ! lead+ smell1 b modifi$ by ! rose & tub]ose becomes v mu* l ! violet4 ,moreov]1 x has a gre5 color1 l ! extract ( violet2 & z ! eye influ5ces ! judgm5t by ! s5se ( ta/e1 s x does ) ! s5se ( smell4 ,extract ( violet ent]s l>gely into ! composition ( sev]al ( ! mo/ popul> b\quets1 su* z extract ( spr+ fl[]s & _m o!rs4 ,,vitiv]t1 or ,kus-,kus1 is ! rhizome ( an ,indian grass4 ,9 ! neighborhood ( ,calcutta1 & 9 ! city1 ?is mat]ial has an ext5sive use by be+ manufactur$ into awn+s1 bl9ds1 & sun-%ades1 call$ ,tatty4 ,dur+ ! hot seasons an att5dant spr9kles wat] ov] !m2 ?is op]ation cools ! ap>tm5t by ! evaporation ( ! wat]1 &1 at ! same "t1 p]fumes ! atmosph]e1 9 a v agreeable mann]1 ) ! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( ! vitiv]t4 ,x has a smell betwe5 ! aromatic or spicy odor & t ( fl[]s--if su* a di/9ction c be admitt$4 ,we classify x ) orris root1 n t x has any odor resembl+ x1 b because x has a l effect 9 use 9 p]fum]y1 & because x is prep>$ z a t9cture = obta9+ its odor4 ,ab\t f\r p\nds ( ! dri$ vitiv]t1 z x is import$1 be+ cut small & set to /eep 9 a gallon ( rectifi$ spirits = a =tnight1 produces ! ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,vitiv]t ( ! %ops4 ,9 ?is /ate x is r>ely us$ z a p]fume1 al?\gh x is occasionally ask$ = by ^? :o1 p]haps1 h le>nt to admire its odor by _! previ\s resid5ce 9 ! ,ea/]n clime4 ,! extract1 ess5ce1 or t9cture ( vitiv]t1 ent]s into ! composition ( sev]al ( ! mu*-admir$ & old b\quets manufactur$ 9 ! e>ly days ( p]fum]y 9 ,engl&1 su* z ,m\ssela9e des ,indies1 = :i* prep>ation ,m4 ,delcroix1 9 ! z5i? ( 8 fame1 creat$ q a furor 9 ! fa%ionable _w4 ,illu/ration3 ,vitiv]t4 ,ess5ce ( vitiv]t is also made by dissolv+ #b oz4 ( otto ( vitiv]t 9 #a gallon ( _s2 ?is prep>ation is /rong] ?an ! t9cture1 z above4 ,,m>e*ale & ,,b\quet ,,du ,,roi1 p]fumes :i* h also _h _! day1 owe mu* ( _! peculi>ity to ! vitiv]t conta9$ 9 !m4 ,bundles ( vitiv]t are sold = p]fum+ l95 & prev5t+ mo?1 &1 :5 gr\nd1 is us$ to manufacture c]ta9 sa*et p[d]s4 ,otto ( vitiv]t is procurable by di/illation2 a hundr$-weight ( vitiv]t yields ab\t #ad oz4 ( otto1 :i* 9 appe>ance v mu* resembles otto ( santal4 ,i h plac$ a sample ( x 9 ! museum at ,kew4 ,,volkam]ia4--,an exquisite p]fume is sold "u ?is "n1 presum$1 ( c\rse1 to be d]iv$ f ! ,volkam]ia in]mis 7,,l9dley74 ,:e!r x has a smell resembl+ ! fl[] ( t plant1 or :e!r ! plant blooms at all1 we are unable to say4 ,x is a native ( ,india1 & seems to be little kn[n ev5 9 ! botanic g>d5s ( ?is c\ntry2 h[ev]1 ! plant has a "n1 & t's en\gh = ! v]satile ,p>isian p]fum]1 & if ! mixture he makes takes ) ! fa%ionable _w--! plant :i* *ri/5s x has a f9e p]fume = a c]ta9ty6 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,volkam]ia4 ,esprit de violette1 #a p9t4 tub]euse1 #a jasm9e1 #a_/d rose1 #a_/b ,ess5ce de muse1 #b oz4 ,,wallfl[] 7,*]ian?us74--,exquisite z is ! odor ( ?is fl[]1 x is n us$ 9 p]fum]y1 ?\gh no d\bt x might be1 & v successfully too1 7 ! plant cultivat$ = t purpose4 ,to ?is fl[] we w\ld direct p>ticul> att5tion1 z "o well adapt$ = exp]im5ts to obta9 its odorif]\s pr9ciple 9 ?is c\ntry1 our climate be+ good = its production4 ,! mode = obta9+ its odor has be5 indicat$ :5 we spoke ( heliotrope1 page #fj4 ,& if x answ]s on ! small scale1 !re is little d\bt ( success 9 ! l>ge way1 & !re is no fe> b t ! sc5t ( ! old ,engli% wallfl[] w meet ) a dem&4 ,an ,,imitation ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,wallfl[] c be comp\nd$ ?us3-- ,extract fleur d'orange1 #a p9t4 vanilla1 #a_/b ,esprit de rose1 #a ,extract ( orris1 #a_/b cassie1 #a_/b ,ess5tial oil ( almonds1 #e drops4 ,all[ ?is mixture to be made up = two or ?ree weeks prior to putt+ x up = sale4 ,,w9t] ,,gre5 7,tri5talis ,europoea74--,a p]fum+ otto c be procur$ by di/ill+ ! leaves ( ?is plant3 x is pr9cipally consum$ 9 ! p]fum+ ( soaps4 ,^u ! /r5g? ( ! "n ( ?is odor\s plant a v nice h&k]*ief p]fume is made4 ,,icel& ,,w9t] ,,gre54 ,esprit de rose1 #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( lav5d]1 #a_/d ,extract ( n]oli1 #a_/b vanilla1 #a_/d vitiv]t1 #a_/d cassie1 #a_/b amb]gris1 #a_/d ,we h n[ describ$ all ! important odorif]\s bodies :i* are us$ by ! manufactur+ p]fum]1 z d]iv$ f ! botanic k+dom2 x may be und]/ood t :]e an odorif]\s mat]ial is unnotic$1 x has no qualities peculi> en\gh to be rem>k$ on1 & t ! me?ods adopt$ = prep>+ its ess5ce1 extract1 wat]1 or oil1 are analog\s to ^? t h be5 already notic$1 t is1 by ! processes ( mac]ation1 absorption1 or enfleurage = fl[]s1 by t9cturation = roots1 & by di/illation = se$s1 modifi$ "u c]ta9 circum/ances4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 ?ree o!r important d]ivative odors--amb]gris1 civet1 & musk--:i*1 be+ f ! animal k+dom1 are treat$ sep>ately f plant odors1 9 ord]1 x is consid]$1 to r5d] ! :ole matt] less confus$ to manufactur]s :o may ref] to !m4 ,ammonia & acetic acid1 hold+ an indef9ite position 9 ! ord] we h laid d[n1 may also come 9 "h )\t mu* criticism1 be+ consid]$ z primitive odors4 ,on t]m9at+ our rem>ks relat+ to ! simple prep>ations ( ! odors ( plants1 & be=e we speak ( p]fumes ( an animal orig91 or ( ^? comp\nd odors sold z b\quets1 nosegays1 c41 x may probably be int]e/+ to give a few facts & /ati/ics1 %[+ ! consumption1 9 ,engl&1 ( ! sev]al sub/ances previ\sly nam$4 ,,quantities ,,( ,,ess5tial ,,oils1 ,,or ,,ottos1 ,,pay+ #a,s4 ,,p] ,,p\nd ,,duty1 ,,ent]$ ,,= ,,home ,,consumption ,,9 ,,! ,,ye> #aheb4 lbs4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #bh1egd c>away1 #c1fjb cassia1 #f1afc cloves1 #eie ,otto ( lav5d]1 #ab1ggf lemon1 #fg1cdh pepp]m9t1 #af1jei roses1 #a1bfh spe>m9t1 #afc ?yme1 #aa1dah lemon grass1 citronella1 #dg1chj ,& o!r ottos n o!rwise describ$1 ------- ,total ess5tial oils or ottos import$ 9 "o ye>1 #aie1cdf at ! duty ( #as4 p] p\nd1 yield a rev5ue annually ( #i1gffl4 #afs4 ,x w\ld appe> by ! above return t our consumption ( otto ( cloves 0 exce$+ly small2 :]eas x is probably t5 times t am\nt4 ,! fact is1 sev]al ( ! ,engli% :olesale druggi/s are v l>ge di/ill]s ( ?is otto1 leav+ little or no room = ! sale & importation ( =eign di/ill$ otto ( cloves4 ,aga91 otto ( c>away1 ! ,engli% production ( t article is q equal to ! =eign2 also1 otto ( lav5d]1 :i* is drawn 9 ?is c\ntry probably to ! ext5t ( #fjjj lbs4 annually4 ,!re 7 also pass$ ?r\gh ! ,cu/om ,h\se = home consumption1 9 #aheb-- ,pomatums1 procur$ by enfleurage1 mac]ation1 c41 commonly call$ ,fr5* ,pomatums1 av]age value ( #fs4 p] p\nd1 & pay+ a duty ( #as4 p] p\nd1 valu$ by ! import]s at ,l#a1cjf ,p]fum]y n o!rwise describ$2 value ,l#a1ibj ,numb] ( bottles ( eau de ,cologne1 pay+ a duty ( #as4 ea*1,d #ai1ggg ,rev5ue f eau de ,cologne manufactur$ out ( ,engl&1 say #bj1jjj flacons at #h;d4 #h1jjjl4 annually4 ,! total rev5ue d]iv$ f v>i\s s\rces1 ev5 ^u ?is l[ scale ( duties1 f ! sub/ances ) :i* ,britannia p]fumes h] pocket h&k]*ief1 _c be e/imat$ at less ?an #dj1jjjl4 p] annum4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 includes ! duty ^u ! spirits us$ 9 ! home manufacture ( p]fum]y4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,,p]fumes ,,( ,,animal ,,orig94 ,9 ! previ\s articles we h only spok5 ( ! odors ( plants2 we n[ ent] ^u ^? mat]ials us$ 9 p]fum]y ( an animal orig94 ,! fir/ "u our notice is-- ,,amb]gris4--,?is sub/ance is f\nd 9 ! sea1 float+ ne> ! isl&s ( ,sumatra1 ,molucca1 & ,madagasc>2 also on ! coa/s ( ,am]ica1 ,brazil1 ,*9a1 ,japan1 & ! ,corom&el4 ,! we/]n coa/ ( ,irel& is (t5 f\nd to yield l>ge pieces ( ?is sub/ance4 ,! %ores ( ! c\nties ( ,sligo1 ,mayo1 ,k]ry1 & ! isles ( ,arran1 are ! pr9cipal places :]e x has be5 f\nd4 ,9 ! ,philosophical ,transactions !re is an acc\nt ( a lump f\nd on ! bea* ( ! fir/-m5tion$ c\nty1 9 ! ye> #afia1 :i* weigh$ #eb oz41 & 0 b\ght on ! spot = #bjl41 b :i* aft]w>ds 0 sold 9 ,london = m ?an #ajjl4 7,philos4 ,trans4 ,no4 #bbg1 p4 #eji74 ,we are q )9 limit 9 /at+ t _m volumes conc]n+ ! orig9 ( amb]gris h be5 writt51 b ! "q respect+ x is /ill at issue4 ,x is f\nd 9 ! /oma*s ( ! mo/ voraci\s fi%es1 ^! animals swall[+1 at p>ticul> times1 ev]y?+ !y happ5 to meet )4 ,x has be5 p>ticul>ly f\nd 9 ! inte/9es ( ! sp]maceti :ale1 & mo/ commonly 9 sickly fi%1 :5ce x is suppos$ to be ! cause or effect ( ! disease4 ,"s au?ors1 & among !m ,rob]t ,boyle1 consid] x to be ( vegetable production1 & analog\s to amb]2 h5ce its "n amb]-gris 7gray7 gray amb]4 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 )9 ! prov9ce ( ?is "w to discuss ^u ! v>i\s !ories ab\t its production1 :i* c\ld probably be satisfactorily expla9$ if our mod]n appliances 7 br\ght to be> ^u ! subject4 ,! field is op5 to any sci5tific en?usia/2 all rec5t au?ors :o m5tion x1 m]ely quot+ ! facts kn[n m ?an a c5tury ago4 ,a mod]n compil]1 speak+ ( amb]gris1 says1 ,x smells l dri$ c[-dung4 ,nev] hav+ smell$ ?is latt] sub/ance1 we _c say :e!r ! simile be correct2 b we c]ta9ly consid] t its p]fume is mo/ incr$ibly ov]rat$2 nor c we =get t ,,homb]g f\nd t a vessel 9 :i* he _h made a long dige/ion ( ! human faeces _h acquir$ a v /rong & p]fect smell ( amb]gris1 insomu* t any "o w\ld h ?\ght t a great quantity ( ess5ce ( amb]gris _h be5 made 9 x4 ,! p]fume 7odor67 0 s /rong t ! vessel 0 oblig$ to be mov$ out ( ! laboratory4 7,mem4 ,acad4 ,p>is1 #agaa47 ,nev]!less1 z amb]gris is ext5sively us$ z a p]fume1 9 def]5ce to ^? :o admire its odor1 we presume t x has to _m an agreeable smell4 ,l bodies ( ?is k9d und]go+ a sl[ decomposition & possess+ little volatility1 x1 :5 mix$ ) o!r v fleet+ sc5ts1 gives p]man5ce to !m on ! h&k]*ief1 & = ?is quality ! p]fum] e/eems x mu*4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,amb]gris ,is only kept = mix+2 :5 retail$ x has to be sweet5$ up to ! public nose2 x is !n call$ aft] ! ,p>isian "n ,,extrait ,d',,ambre4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a_/b p9t4 ,extract ( amb]gris1 #a ,ess5ce ( musk1 #a_/d ,extract ( vanilla1 #b ounces4 ,?is p]fume has su* a la/+ odor1 t a h&k]*ief be+ well p]fum$ ) x1 w /ill reta9 an odor ev5 aft] x has be5 wa%$4 ,! fact is1 t bo? musk & amb]gris conta9 a sub/ance :i* cl+s p]t9aci\sly to wov5 fabrics1 & n be+ soluble 9 weak alkal9e lyes1 is /ill f\nd ^u ! mat]ial aft] pass+ ?r\gh ! lavatory ordeal4 ,p[d]$ amb]gris is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( cassolettes--little ivory or bone boxes p]=at$--:i* are made to conta9 a pa/e ( /rong-smell+ sub/ances1 to c>ry 9 ! pocket or reticule2 also 9 ! mak+ ( peau d',espagne1 or ,spani% sk91 us$ = p]fum+ writ+ pap] & envelopes1 & :i* w be describ$ h]eaft]4 ,illu/ration3 ,civet ,cat4 ,,civet4--,?is sub/ance is secret$ by ! ,viv]ra civetta1 or civet cat4 ,x is =m$ 9 a l>ge d\ble gl&ul> receptacle betwe5 ! anus & ! pud5dum ( ! creature4 ,l _m o!r sub/ances ( ,ori5tal orig91 x 0 fir/ br\ght to ?is c\ntry by ! ,dut*4 ,:5 ! civet cats are kept 9 a /ate ( conf9em5t1 :i* at "o "t 0 common 9 ,am/]dam1 !y are plac$ 9 /rong cages1 s con/ruct$ z to prev5t ! animal f turn+ r\nd & bit+ ! p]son employ$ 9 collect+ ! secret$ sub/ance4 ,?is op]ation is said to be p]=m$ twice a week1 & is done by scrap+ out ! civet ) a small spoon3 ab\t a dra*m at a "t is ?us obta9$4 ,a good deal ( ! civet n[ br\ght to ,european m>kets is f ,calicut1 capital ( ! prov9ce ( ,malab>1 & f ,bassora on ! ,euphrates4 ,9 its pure /ate1 civet has1 to ne>ly all p]sons1 a mo/ disgu/+ odor2 b :5 dilut$ to an inf9itesimal portion1 its p]fume is agreeable4 ,x is difficult to asc]ta9 ! reason :y ! same sub/ance1 modifi$ only by ! quantity ( matt] pres5t$ to ! nose1 %\ld produce an opposite effect on ! olfactory n]ve2 b su* is ! case ) ne>ly all odor\s bodies1 especially ) ottos1 :i*1 if smell$ at1 are f> f nice1 & 9 "s cases1 positively na/y--su* z otto ( n]oli1 otto ( ?yme1 otto ( pat*\ly2 b if dilut$ ) a ?\s& times its volume ( oil1 _s1 c41 !n _! fragrance is delightful4 ,otto ( rose to _m has a sickly odor1 b :5 elim9at$ 9 ! homeopa?ic quantities z x rises f a s+le rose-bloom1 :o is x t w n admit t ! rose is sweet8 ,! odor ( civet is be/ imp>t$1 n by actual contact1 b by be+ plac$ 9 ! neighborhood ( absorb5t mat]ials4 ,?us1 :5 spread ^u lea!r1 :i*1 be+ cov]$ ) silk & plac$ 9 a writ+-desk1 p]fumes ! pap] & envelopes delightfully1 & s mu* s1 t !y reta9 ! odor aft] pass+ ?r\gh ! po/4 ,,extract ,,( ,,civet is prep>$ by rubb+ 9 a mort> "o ounce ( civet ) an ounce ( orris-root p[d]1 or any o!r simil> mat]ial t w assi/ to break up or divide ! civet2 & !n plac+ ! :ole into a gallon ( rectifi$ spirits2 aft] mac]at+ = a mon?1 x is fit to /ra9 (f4 ,x is pr9cipally us$ z a fix+ +r$i5t1 9 mix+ ess5ces ( delicate odor4 ,! ,fr5* p]fum]s use ! extract ( civet m ?an ,engli% manufactur]s1 :o seem to pref] extract ( musk4 ,f a qu>t] ( a p9t to half a p9t is ! utmo/ t ought to be mix$ ) a gallon ( any o!r p]fume4 ,,ca/or is a secretion ( ! ,ca/or fib]1 or beav]1 v simil> to civet4 ,?\gh we h (t5 he>d ( its be+ us$ 9 p]fum]y1 we d n p]sonally "k t su* is ! case4 ,,musk4--,?is extraord9>y sub/ance1 l civet1 is an animal secretion2 x is conta9$ 9 excretory follicles ab\t ! navel ( ! male animal4 ,9 ! p]fum]y trade ^! little bags are call$ pods1 & z import$ x is call$ pod musk4 ,:5 ! musk is sep>at$ f ! sk9 or sack 9 :i* x is conta9$1 x is !n call$ gra9 musk4 ,! musk de] 7,mos*us mos*atus7 is an inhabitant ( ! great m\nta9 range :i* belts ! nor? ( ,india1 & bran*es out into ,sib]ia1 ,?ibet1 & ,*9a4 ,& x is also f\nd 9 ! ,altaic range1 ne> ,lake ,baikal1 & 9 "s o!r m\nta9 ranges1 b always on ! bord]s ( ! l9e ( p]petual sn[4 ,x is f ! male animal only t ! musk is produc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,musk ,pod1 actual size4 ,x =m]ly 0 held 9 high repute z a m$ic9e1 & is /ill s among ,ea/]n nations4 ,! musk f ,b\tan1 ,tonqu91 & ,?ibet1 is mo/ e/eem$1 t f ,b5gal is inf]ior1 & f ,russia is ( /ill l[] quality4 ,! /r5g? & ! quantity produc$ by a s+le animal v>ies ) ! season ( ! ye> & ! age ( ! animal4 ,a s+le musk pod usually conta9s f two to ?ree dra*ms ( gra9 musk4 ,musk is import$ into ,engl& f ,*9a1 9 caddies ( f #ej to #ajj ounces ea*4 ,:5 adult]at$ ) ! animal's blood1 :i* is (t5 ! case1 x =ms into lumps or clots2 x is sometimes also mix$ ) a d>k1 friable e>?4 ,^? pods 9 :i* little pieces ( lead are discov]$1 z a g5]al rule1 yield ! f9e/ quality ( musk2 ^u ?is rule1 we presume t ! be/ musk is ! mo/ wor?y ( adult]ation4 ,musk is rem>kable = ! diffusiv5ess & subtlety ( its sc5t2 ev]y?+ 9 its vic9ity soon becomes affect$ by x1 & long reta9s its odor1 al?\gh n 9 actual contact ) x4 ,x is a fa%ion ( ! pres5t day = p to say t !y d n l musk2 b1 nev]!less1 f great exp]i5ce 9 "o ( ! l>ge/ manufactur+ p]fumatories 9 ,europe1 we are ( op9ion t ! public ta/e = musk is z great z any p]fum] desires4 ,^? sub/ances conta9+ x always take ! pref]5ce 9 ready sale--s long z ! v5dor takes c>e to assure 8 cu/om] t !re is no musk 9 x4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,musk ,de]4 ,! p]fum] uses musk pr9cipally 9 ! sc5t+ ( soap1 sa*et p[d]1 & 9 mix+ = liquid p]fum]y4 ,! j reputation ( ,p>is's orig9al ,w9dsor soap is due1 9 ! ma91 to its delightful odor4 ,! soap is1 d\btless1 ( ! f9e/ quality1 b its p]fume /amps x among ! elite--its fragrance x owes to musk4 ,! alkal9e reaction ( soap is favorable to ! developm5t ( ! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( musk4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a /rong solution ( potass be p\r$ on to gra9 musk1 ammonia is develop$ in/ead ( ! true musk smell4 ,,extract ,,( ,,musk4 ,gra9 musk1 #b oz4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a gallon4 ,aft] /&+ = "o mon?1 at a summ] temp]ature1 x is fit to draw (f4 ,su* an extract is t :i* is us$ = mix+ 9 o!r p]fumes4 ,t extract ( musk :i* is prep>$ = retail sale1 is prep>$ ?us3-- ,,extrait ,,de ,,musc4 ,extract ( musk 7z above71 #a p9t4 amb]gris1 #a_/b rose triple1 #a_/d ,mix & filt] x2 x is !n fit = bottl+4 ,?is prep>ation is sweet] ?an pure extract ( musk made accord+ to our fir/ =mula1 & is also m pr(itable to ! v5dor4 ,x w be se5 h]eaft] t ! orig9al extract ( musk is pr9cipally us$ = a fix+ +r$i5t 9 o!r p]fumes1 to give p]man5ce to a volatile odor2 cu/om]s requir+1 9 a g5]al way1 t :i* is incompatible1 namely1 t a p]fume %all be /rong to smell1 i4e4 v volatile1 & t x %all rema9 ^u ! h&k]*ief = a long p]iod1 ergo1 n volatile6 ,small portions ( extract ( musk1 mix$ ) esprit de rose1 violet1 tub]ose1 & o!rs1 d1 9 a measure1 atta9 ?is object2 t is1 aft] ! violet1 c41 has evaporat$1 ! h&k]*ief /ill reta9s an odor1 :i*1 al?\gh n t ( ! orig9al smell1 yet gives satisfaction1 because x is pleasant to ! nasal organ4 ,,section ,v4 ,,ammonia4--,"u ! v>i\s titles ( ,smell+ ,salts1 ,pre/on ,salts1 ,inexhau/ible ,salts1 ,eau de ,luce1 ,sal ,volatile1 ammonia1 mix$ ) o!r odorif]\s bodies1 has be5 v ext5sively consum$ z mat]ial = gratify+ ! olfactory n]ve4 ,! p]fum] uses liq4 amm4 =tis1 t is1 /rong liquid ammonia1 & ! sesqui-c>bonate ( ammonia1 = prep>+ ! v>i\s salts t he sells4 ,^! mat]ials he does n attempt to make2 9 fact1 x is q out ( 8 prov9ce s to d1 b he procures !m ready = 8 h& ?r\gh "s manufactur+ *emi/4 ,! be/ prep>ation = smell+-bottles is :at is t]m$ ,,inexhau/ible ,,salts1 :i* is prep>$ ?us3-- ,liquid ammonia1 #a p9t4 ,otto ( rosem>y1 #a dra*m4 ,engli% lav5d]1 #a b]gamot1 #a_/b cloves1 #a_/b ,mix ! :ole toge!r ) agitation 9 a v /rong & well-/opp]$ bottle4 ,?is mixture is us$ by fill+ ! smell+-bottles ) any por\s absorb5t mat]ial1 su* z asbe/os1 or1 :at is bett]1 sponge cutt+s1 t h be5 well beat51 wa%$1 & dri$4 ,^! cutt+s c be procur$ at a nom9al price f any ( ! sponge-deal]s1 be+ ! trimm+ or roots ( ! ,turkey sponge1 :i* are cut (f be=e ! m]*ants s5d x into ! retail m>ket4 ,aft] ! bottles are fill$ ) ! sponge1 x is ?or\ghly saturat$ ) ! sc5t$ ammonia1 b no m is p\r$ 9 ?an ! sponge w reta91 :5 ! bottles are inv]t$2 z1 if by any *ance ! ammonia runs out & is spilt ov] c]ta9 color$ fabrics1 x causes a /a94 ,:5 su* an accid5t happ5s1 ! p]son :o sold x is inv>iably blam$4 ,:5 ! sponge is saturat$ prop]ly1 x w reta9 ! ammoniacal odor long] ?an any o!r mat]ial2 h5ce1 we presume1 bottles fill$ 9 ?is way are call$ inexhau/ible1 :i* "n1 h[ev]1 !y d n su/a9 m ?an two or ?ree mon?s ) any cr$it2 ! w>m h& soon dissipates ! ammonia "u any circum/ances1 & !y require to be refill$4 ,= transp>5t color$ bottles1 in/ead ( sponge1 ! p]fum]s use :at !y call insoluble cry/al salts 7sulphate ( potass74 ,! bottles be+ fill$ ) cry/als1 are cov]$ ei!r ) ! liquid ammonia1 sc5t$ z above1 or ) alcoholic ammonia4 ,! necks ( ! bottles are fill$ ) a piece ( :ite cotton2 o!rwise1 :5 inv]t$1 f ! non-absorb5t quality ( ! cry/als1 ! ammonia runs out1 & causes compla9ts to be made4 ,! cry/als are pretti] 9 color$ bottles ?an ! sponge2 b 9 pla9 bottles ! sponge appe>s q z h&some1 &1 z be=e obs]v$1 x holds ! ammonia bett] ?an any o!r mat]ial4 ,p]fum]s sell also :at is call$ ,,:ite ,,smell+ ,,salts1 & ,,pre/on ,,salts4 ,! ,:ite ,smell+ ,salt is ! sesqui-c>bonate ( ammonia 9 p[d]1 ) :i* is mix$ any p]fum+ otto t is ?\ght fit1--lav5d] otto giv+1 z a g5]al rule1 ! mo/ satisfaction4 ,,pre/on ,,salts1 :i* is ! *eape/ ( all ! ammoniacal comp\nds1 is compos$ ( "s easily decomposable salt ( ammonia & lime1 su* z equal p>ts ( muriate ( ammonia1 or ( sesqui-c>bonate ( ammonia1 & ( fre%-slak$ lime4 ,:5 ! bottles are fill$ ) ?is comp\nd1 ramm$ 9 v h>d1 a drop or two ( "s *eap otto is p\r$ on ! top prior to cork+4 ,= ?is purpose otto ( ,fr5* lav5d]1 or otto ( b]gamot1 answ]s v well4 ,we ne$ sc>cely m5tion t ! corks are dipp$ into melt$ seal+-wax1 or bru%$ ov] ) liquid wax1 t is1 r$ or black wax dissolv$ 9 alcohol1 to :i* a small portion ( e!r is add$4 ,! only o!r comp\nd ( ammonia t is sold 9 ! p]fum]y trade is ,eau de ,luce1 ?\gh prop]ly x belongs to ! druggi/4 ,:5 correctly made--:i* is v r>ely ! case--x reta9s ! rem>kable odor ( oil ( amb]1 :i* r5d]s x *>act]i/ic4 ,,eau ,,de ,,luce4 ,t9cture ( b5zo93 or1 balsam ( ,p]u1 #a oz4 ,otto ( lav5d]1 #aj drops4 ,oil ( amb]1 #e ,liquor ammonia1 #b oz4 ,if requisite1 /ra9 ?r\gh cotton wool1 b x mu/ n be filt]$1 z x %\ld h ! appe>ance ( a milk-:ite emulsion4 ,,acetic ,,acid ,,& ,,its ,,use ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4--,! pung5cy ( ! odor ( v9eg> naturally br\ght x into ! e>lie/ use 9 ! art ( p]fum]y4 ,! acetic acid1 evolv$ by di/ill+ acetate ( copp] 7v]digris71 is ! true aromatic v9eg> ( ! old al*emi/s4 ,! mod]n aromatic v9eg> is ! conc5trat$ acetic acid aromatiz$ ) v>i\s ottos1 camphor1 c41 ?us-- ,,aromatic ,,v9eg>4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid1 #h oz4 ,otto ( ,engli% lav5d]1 #b dra*ms4 rosem>y1 #a dra*m4 cloves1 #a camphor1 #a oz4 ,fir/ dissolve ! bruis$ camphor 9 ! acetic acid1 !n add ! p]fumes2 aft] rema9+ toge!r = a few days1 ) occasional agitation1 x is to be /ra9$1 & is !n ready = use4 ,sev]al =ms = ! prep>ation ( ?is sub/ance h be5 publi%$1 almo/ all ( :i*1 h[ev]1 appe> to complicate & my/ify a process t is all simplicity4 ,! mo/ popul> article ( ?is k9d is-- ,,h5ry',s ,,v9eg>4 ,dri$ leaves ( rosem>y1 rue1 wormwood1 sage1 m9t1 & lav5d] fl[]s1 ea*1 #a_/b oz4 ,bruis$ nutmeg1 cloves1 angelica root1 & camphor1 ea*1 #a_/d oz4 ,alcohol 7rectifi$71 #d oz4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid1 #af oz4 ,mac]ate ! mat]ials = a day 9 ! _s2 !n add ! acid1 & dige/ = a week long]1 at a temp]ature ( ab\t #ad deg4 ,c4 or #ae deg4 ,c4 ,f9ally1 press out ! new aromatiz$ acid1 & filt] x4 ,z ?is mixture mu/ n g into ! ord9>y metallic t9cture press1 = ! obvi\s reason ( ! *emical action t w\ld ensue1 x is be/ to dra9 z mu* ( ! liquor away z we c1 by means ( a common funnel1 & !n to save ! residue f ! int]/ices ( ! h]bs1 by ty+ !m up 9 a l95 clo?1 & subject+ !m to pressure by means ( an ord9>y lemon-squeez]1 or simil> device4 ,,v9aigre ,a ,,la ,,rose4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid1 #a oz4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,well %ak5 toge!r4 ,x is obvi\s t v9eg>s diff]5tly p]fum$ may be made 9 a simil> mann] to ! above1 by us+ o!r ottos 9 place ( ! otto ( roses4 ,all ^! conc5trat$ v9eg>s are us$ 9 ! same way z p]fum$ ammonia1 t is1 by p\r+ ?ree or f\r dra*ms into an ornam5tal smell+ bottle1 previ\sly fill$ ) cry/als ( sulphate ( pota%1 :i* =ms ! sel de v9aigre ( ! %ops2 or ^u sponge into little silv] boxes1 call$ v9aigrettes1 f _! ,fr5* orig94 ,! use ( ^! v9eg>s _h _! orig9 9 ! presumption ( keep+ ^? :o c>ri$ !m f ! effects ( infecti\s disease1 d\btless spr++ out ( ! /ory ( ! f\r ?ieves' v9eg>1 :i* is ?us r5d]$ 9 ,lewis's ,disp5satory3 ,x is said t dur+ ! plague at ,m>seilles1 f\r p]sons1 by ! use ( ?is pres]vative1 att5d$1 unhurt1 multitudes ( ^? t 7 affect$2 t "u ! color ( ^! s]vices1 !y robb$ bo? ! sick & ! dead2 & t be+ aft]w>ds appreh5d$1 "o ( !m sav$ himself f ! gall[s by disclos+ ! composition ( ! prophylactic 7a v likely /ory6671 :i* 0 z foll[s3-- ,,v9aigre ,,des ,,quatre ,,voleurs1 ,,or ,,f\r ,,?ieves' ,,v9eg>4 ,take fre% tops ( common wormwood1 ,roman wormwood1 rosem>y1 sage1 m9t1 & rue1 ( ea*1 #c_/d oz4 ,lav5d] fl[]s1 #a oz4 ,g>lic1 calamus aromaticus1 c9namon1 cloves1 & nutmeg1 ea*1 #a dra*m4 ,camphor1 #a_/b oz4 ,alcohol or br&y1 #a oz4 ,/rong v9eg>1 #d p9ts4 ,dige/ all ! mat]ials1 except ! camphor & _s1 9 a closely cov]$ vessel = a =tnight1 at a summ] heat2 !n express & filt] ! v9aigre produc$1 & add ! camphor previ\sly dissolv$ 9 ! br&y or _s4 ,a v simil> & q z effective a prep>ation may be made by dissolv+ ! odor\s pr9ciple ( ! plants indicat$ 9 a mixture ( alcohol & acetic acid4 ,su* prep>ations1 h[ev]1 are m )9 ! prov9ce ( ! druggi/ ?an p]fum]4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 sev]al prep>ations ( v9eg> :i* are sold to "s ext5t = mix+ ) ! wat] = lavatory purposes & ! ba?1 _! v5dors endeavor+ to place !m 9 competition ) ,eau de ,cologne1 b ) little avail4 ,among !m may be enum]at$-- ,,hygi5ic ,,or ,,prev5tive ,,v9eg>4 ,br&y1 #a p9t4 ,otto ( cloves1 #a dra*m4 lav5d]1 #a m>joram1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,gum b5zo91 #a oz4 ,mac]ate ^! toge!r = a few h\rs1 !n add-- ,br[n v9eg>1 #b p9ts4 & /ra9 or filt]1 if requisite1 to be bright4 ,,toilet ,,v9eg> 7a la ,violette74 ,extract ( cassie1 #a_/b p9t4 orris1 #a_/d ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/d ,:ite w9e v9eg>1 #b p9ts4 ,,toilet ,,v9eg> 7a la ,rose74 ,dri$ rose-leaves1 #d oz4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/b p9t4 ,:ite w9e v9eg>1 #b p9ts4 ,mac]ate 9 a close vessel = a =tnight1 !n filt] & bottle = sale4 ,,v9aigre ,,de ,,cologne4 ,to eau de ,cologne1 #a p9t1 ,add1 /rong acetic acid1 #a_/b oz4 ,filt] if necess>y4 ,)\t unnecess>ily repeat+ simil> =mulae1 x w be obvi\s to ! read] t v9eg> ( any fl[] may be prep>$ 9 a simil> way to ^? above notic$2 ?us1 = v9aigre a la jasm9e1 or = v9aigre a la fleur d'orange1 we h only to sub/itute ! esprit de jasm9e1 or ! esprit de fleur d'orange1 9 place ( ! ,eau de ,cologne1 to produce orange-fl[] or jasm9e v9eg>s2 h[ev]1 ^! latt] articles are n 9 dem&1 & our only reason = expla9+ h[ su* prep>ations may be made1 is 9 ord] to sugge/ ! me?ods ( proc$ure to any "o desir\s ( mak+ !m lead+ articles 9 _! trade4 ,we p]haps may obs]ve1 en passant1 t :]e economy 9 ! production ( any ( ! toilet v9eg>s is a matt] ( consid]ation1 !y h only to be dilut$ ) rose-wat] d[n to ! pr(itable /r5g? requir$4 ,any ( ! p]fum$ v9eg>s t are requir$ to produce opalesc5ce1 :5 mix$ ) wat]1 mu/ conta9 "s gum-res91 l ! hygi5ic v9eg>1 z above4 ,ei!r myrrh1 b5zo91 /orax1 or tolu1 answ] equally well4 ,,section ,,vi4 ,,b\quets ,,& ,,nosegays4 ,9 ! previ\s articles we h endeavor$ to expla9 ! mode ( prep>+ ! primitive p]fumes--! orig9al odors ( plants4 ,x w h be5 obs]v$1 t :ile ! majority c be obta9$ "u ! =m ( otto or ess5tial oil1 !re are o!rs :i* hi!rto h n be5 isolat$1 b exi/ only 9 solution 9 alcohol1 or 9 a fatty body4 ,( ! latt] are includ$ all t are mo/ priz$1 ) ! exception ( otto ( rose--t diamond among ! odorif]\s gems4 ,practically1 we h no ess5tial oils or ottos ( ,jasm9e1 ,vanilla1 ,acacia1 ,tub]ose1 ,cassie1 ,syr+a1 ,violets1 & o!rs4 ,:at we "k ( ^! odors is d]iv$ f esprits1 obta9$ f oils or fats1 9 :i* ! sev]al fl[]s h be5 repeat$ly infus$1 & aft]w>ds infus+ su* fats or oils 9 alcohol4 ,und\bt$ly1 ^! odors are ! mo/ g5]ally pleas+1 :ile ^? made f ! ess5tial oils 7i4e4 otto71 dissolv$ 9 _s1 are ( a second>y "*4 ,! simple odors1 :5 isolat$1 are call$ ,,ess5tial ,,oils or ,,ottos2 :5 dissolv$ or exi/+ 9 solution 9 alcohol1 by ! ,engli% !y are t]m$ ,,ess5ces1 & by ! ,fr5* ,,extraits or ,,esprits2 a few exceptions prove ?is rule4 ,ess5tial oil ( orange-peel1 & ( lemon-peel1 are frequ5tly t]m$ 9 ! trade ,ess5ce ( orange & ,ess5ce ( lemons1 in/ead ( ess5tial oil or otto ( lemons1 c4 ,! soon] ! correct nom5clature is us$ 9 p]fum]y1 z well z 9 ! alli$ arts1 ! bett]1 & ! few] blund]s w be made 9 ! disp5satory4 ,x appe>s to ! writ]1 t if ! nom5clature ( ^! sub/ances 7 revis$1 x w\ld be s]viceable2 & he w\ld sugge/ t1 z a significant1 brief1 & compreh5sive t]m1 ,otto be us$ z a prefix to d5ote t su* & su* a body is ! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( ! plant4 ,we %\ld !n h otto ( lav5d] in/ead ( ess5tial oil ( lav5d]1 c4 c4 ,9 ?is "w x w be se5 t ! writ] has g5]ally us$ ! ^w ,,otto 9 place ( ess5tial oil1 9 accordance ) 8 views4 ,:]e !re exi/s a solution ( an ess5tial oil 9 a fat oil1 ! necessity ( "s su* significant di/9ction is r5d]$ obvi\s1 = comm]cially su* articles are /ill call$ oils--oil ( jasm9e1 oil ( roses1 c4 ,x _c be expect$ t ! public w use ! words fat oil & ess5tial oil1 to di/+ui% ^! diff]5ces ( composition4 ,!re are sev]al good reasons :y ! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( plants %\ld n be d5om9at$ oils4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 x is a bad pr9ciple to give any class ( sub/ances ! same signification z ^? belong+ to ano!r4 ,surely1 !re are en\gh di/+ui%+ qualities 9 _! composition1 _! physical "*1 & *emical reaction1 to w>rant ! application ( a significant "n to t l>ge class ( sub/ances kn[n z ! aroma ( plants6 ,:5 ! *emical nom5clature 0 la/ revis$1 ! organic bodies 7 little dealt )4 ,we "k t we owe ?is univ]sal oil to ! old al*emi/1 mu* 9 ! same way z _s has be5 us$1 b a little consid]ation quickly indicates ! folly ( its cont9u$ use4 ,we c no long] call otto ( rosem>y1 or otto ( nutmegs1 ess5tial oil ( rosem>y or nutmegs1 ) any m propriety ?an we c t]m sulphuric acid oil ( vitriol4 ,all ! *emical works speak ( ! odorif]\s bodies z ess5tial or volatile oils1 & ( ! greasy bodies z fat or unctu\s oils4 ,oils1 prop]ly s call$1 unite ) salifiable bases & =m soap2 :]eas ! ess5tial or volatile oils1 i4e4 :at we w\ld please to call ! ottos1 d no su* ?+4 ,on ! contr>y1 !y unite ) acids 9 ! majority ( in/ances4 ,! ^w oil mu/ h]eaft] be conf9$ to ^? bodies to :i* its lit]al mean+ ref]s--fat1 unctu\s1 inodor\s 7:5 pure71 greasy sub/ances--& c no long] be appli$ to ^? odorif]\s mat]ials :i* possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil4 ,we h grappl$ ) _s1 & fix$ its mean+ 9 a *emical s5se2 we h no long] _s ( salt1 or _s ( h>t%orn4 ,let u no long] h almond oil ess5tial1 almond oil unctu\s1 & ! l4 ,x rema9s only = u to complete ! bran* ( p]fum]y :i* relates to odors = ! h&k]*ief1 by giv+ ! =mulae = prep>+ ! mo/ favorite b\quets & nosegays4 ,^!1 z be=e /at$1 are b mixtures ( ! simple ottos 9 _s1 :i*1 prop]ly bl5d$1 produce an agreeable & *>act]i/ic odor1--an effect ^u ! smell+ n]ve simil> to t :i* music or ! mixture ( h>moni\s s\nds produces ^u ! n]ve ( he>+1 t ( pleasure4 ,,! ,,alhambra ,,p]fume4 ,extract ( tub]euse1 #a p9t4 g]anium1 #a_/b acacia1 #a_/d fleur d'orange1 #a_/d civet1 #a_/d ,,! ,,bosphorus ,,b\quet4 ,extract ( acacia1 #a p9t4 jasm9e1 rose triple1 ( ea*1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 tub]euse1 civet1 #a_/d ,otto ( almonds1 #aj drops4 ,,b\quet ,d',,am\r4 ,esprit de rose1 jasm9e1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 violette1 cassie1 ,extract ( musk1 ( ea*1 #a_/b amb]gris1 ,mix & filt]4 ,,b\quet ,,des ,,fleurs ,,du ,,val ,d',,&orre4 ,extrait de jasm9e1 rose1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 violette1 tub]ose1 ,extract ( orris1 #a ,otto ( g]anium1 #a_/d oz4 ,,buck+ham ,,palace ,,b\quet4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 cassie1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 jasm9e1 rose1 ,extract ( orris1 ( ea*1 #a_/b amb]gris1 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a_/b dra*m4 lav5d]1 #a_/b rose1 #a ,,b\quet ,,de ,,c>ol9e2 ,,also ,,call$ ,,b\quet ,,des ,,delices4 ,extrait de rose1 violette1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 tub]ose1 ,extract ( orris1 ( ea*1 #a_/b amb]gris1 ,otto ( b]gamot1 ,limette1 ( ea*1 #a_/d oz4 c$ret1 ,,! ,,c\rt ,,nosegay4 ,extrait de rose1 violette1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 jasm9e1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a ,extract ( musk1 ( ea*1 #a oz4 amb]gris1 ,otto ( lemon1 ( ea*1 #a_/b oz4 b]gamot1 n]oli1 #a dra*m4 ,,eau ,,de ,,*ypre4 ,?is is an old-fa%ion$ ,fr5* p]fume1 presum$ to be d]iv$ f ! ,cyp]us escul5tus by "s1 & by o!rs to be s nam$ aft] ! ,isl& ( ,cyprus2 ! article sold1 h[ev]1 is made ?us-- ,extract ( musk1 #a p9t4 amb]gris1 vanilla1 ( ea*1 #a_/b tonqu9 bean1 orris1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #b p9ts4 ,! mixture ?us =m$ is "o ( ! mo/ la/+ odors t c be made4 ,,empress ,,eug5ie',s ,,nosegay4 ,extract ( musk1 vanilla1 ( ea*1 #a_/d p9t4 tonqu91 n]oli1 g]anium1 rose triple1 ( ea*1 #a_/b santal1 ,,e/]hazy ,,b\quet4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange 7f pomade71 #a p9t4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a ,extract ( vitiv]t1 vanilla1 ( ea*1 #b orris1 tonqu91 ,esprit de n]oli1 #a ,extract ( amb]gris1 #a_/b ,otto ( santal1 #a_/b dra*m4 cloves1 #a_/b ,not)/&+ ! complex mixture "h giv51 x is ! vitiv]t t gives ?is b\quet its peculi> "*4 ,few p]fumes h excit$ great] furor :ile 9 fa%ion4 ,,ess ,,b\quet4 ,! reputation ( ?is p]fume has giv5 rise to num]\s imitations ( ! orig9al article1 m p>ticul>ly on ! cont95t4 ,9 _m ( ! %ops 9 ,g]many & 9 ,france w be se5 bottles labell$ 9 close imitation ( ^? s5t out by ,bayley & ,co41 ,cockspur ,/reet1 ,london1 :o are1 9 tru?1 ! orig9al mak]s4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a p9t4 ,extract ( amb]gris1 #b oz4 orris1 #h ,otto ( lemons1 #a_/d b]gamot1 #a ,! "n ,ess b\quet1 :i* appe>s to puzzle "s folk1 is b a m]e contraction ( ess5ce ( b\quet4 ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 7,la premi]e qualite47 ,_s 7f grape71 #fj ov] pro(1 #f gallons4 ,otto ( n]oli1 ,petale1 #c oz4 ,big>ade1 #a rosem>y1 #b orange-peel1 #e citron-peel1 #e b]gamot-peel1 #b ,mix ) agitation2 !n all[ x to /& = a few days p]fectly quiet1 be=e bottl+4 ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 7,la deuxieme qualite47 ,_s 7f corn71 #f gallons4 ,otto ( n]oli1 ,petit-gra91 #b oz4 ,petale1 #a_/b rosem>y1 #b orange-peel1 lemon1 ( ea*1 #d b]gamot1 ,al?\gh ,eau de ,cologne 0 orig9ally introduc$ to ! public z a sort ( cure-all1 a regul> elixir ( life1 x n[ takes its place1 n z a ph>maceutical product1 b among p]fum]y4 ,( its rem$ial qualities we c say no?+1 su* matt] be+ irrelevant to ! purpose ( ?is book4 ,consid]$1 h[ev]1 z a p]fume1 ) ! public ta/e x ranks v high2 & al?\gh x is exce$+ly volatile & evanesc5t1 yet x has t excell5t quality :i* is call$ refre%+4 ,:e!r ?is be due to ! rosem>y or to ! _s1 we _c say1 b ?9k some?+ may be attribut$ to bo?4 ,"o important ?+ relat+ to ,eau de ,cologne mu/ n1 h[ev]1 pass unnotic$1 & t is1 ! quality ( ! _s us$ 9 its manufacture4 ,! utt] impossibility ( mak+ br&y ) ,engli% _s 9 any way to resemble ! real ,cognac1 is well kn[n4 ,x is equally impossible to make ,eau de ,cologne ) ,engli% _s1 to resemble ! orig9al article4 ,to speak ( ! purity ( ,fr5* _s1 or ( ! impurity ( ,engli% _s1 is equally absurd4 ,! fact is1 t _s d]iv$ f grapes1 & _s obta9$ f corn1 h ea* s di/9ct & *>act]i/ic an aroma1 t ! "o _c be mi/ak5 = ! o!r4 ,! odor ( grape _s is said to be due to ! oean?ic e!r :i* x conta9s4 ,! ,engli% _s1 on ! o!r h&1 owes its odor to fusel oil4 ,s p[]ful is ! oean?ic e!r 9 ! ,fr5* _s1 t not)/&+ ! addition to x ( su* int5sely odorif]\s sub/ances z ! ottos ( n]oli1 rosem>y1 & o!rs1 x /ill gives a *>act]i/ic p]fume to ! products made conta9+ x1 & h5ce ! difficulty ( prep>+ ,eau de ,cologne ) any _s de/itute ( ?is sub/ance4 ,al?\gh v f9e ,eau de ,cologne is (t5 made by m]ely mix+ ! +r$i5ts z indicat$ 9 ! recipe z above1 yet x is bett]1 fir/1 to mix all ! citr9e ottos ) _s1 & !n to di/il ! mixture1 aft]w>ds add+ to ! di/illate ! rosem>y & n]olies1 su* process be+ ! "o adopt$ by ! mo/ popul> h\se at ,cologne4 ,a great _m =ms = ! manufacture ( ,eau de ,cologne h be5 publi%$1 ! au?ors ( "s ( ! recipes evid5tly hav+ no k1 9 a practical s5se1 ( :at !y 7 putt+ by !ory on pap]2 o!r v5tur]s1 to %[ _! lore1 h se>*$ out all ! aromatics ( ,l9dley's ,botany1 & w\ld p]suade u to use abs9!1 hyssop1 anise1 junip]1 m>joram1 c>away1 f5nel1 cum91 c>damom1 c9namon1 nutmeg1 s]polet1 angelica1 cloves1 lav5d]1 camphor1 balm1 pepp]m9t1 galanga1 lemon ?yme1 c4 c4 c4 ,all ^!1 h[ev]1 are b hum--6 ,:]e x is a m]e matt] ( pr(it1 & ! =mula t we h giv5 is too exp5sive to produce ! article requir$1 x is bett] to dilute ! said ,cologne ) a weak _s1 or ) rose-wat]1 r ?an o!rwise alt] its =m2 because1 al?\gh weak1 ! true aroma ( ! orig9al article is reta9$4 ,! recipe ( ! second quality ( ,eau de ,cologne is giv51 to %[ t a v dec5t article c be produc$ ) ,engli% _s4 ,,fl[]s ,,( ,,er94 ,extract ( :ite rose 7see ,,:ite ,,rose71 #a p9t4 vanilla1 #a oz4 ,,royal ,,hunt ,,b\quet4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a p9t4 n]oli1 acacia1 fleur d'orange1 ( ea* #a_/d musk1 orris1 tonqu91 #a_/b ,otto ( citron #b dra*ms4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,flora2 ,,o!rwise1 ,,extract ,,( ,,fl[]s4 ,esprit de rose1 tub]euse1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 violette1 ,extract ( b5zo91 #a-a_/b oz4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #b lemon1 orange1 ( ea*1 #a_/b ,,! ,,gu>ds' ,,b\quet4 ,esprit de rose1 #b p9ts4 n]oli1 #a_/b p9t4 ,extract ( vanilla1 #b oz4 orris1 #b musk1 #a_/d p9t4 ,otto ( cloves1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,,fleur ,d',,italie2 ,,or ,,italian ,,nosegay4 ,esprit de rose1 f pomade1 #b p9ts4 rose triple1 #a p9t4 jasm9e1 violette1 f pomade1 ea*1 #a ,extract ( cassie1 #a_/b musk1 amb]gris1 ( ea*1 #b oz4 ,,jockey ,,club ,,b\quet4 7,engli% =mula47 ,extract ( orris root1 #b p9ts4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a p9t4 rose de pomade1 #a ,extrait de cassie1 tub]euse1 de pomade1 ( ea* #a_/b amb]gris1 #a_/b ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a_/b oz4 ,,jockey ,,club ,,b\quet4 7,fr5* =mula47 ,esprit de rose1 de pomade1 #a p9t4 tub]euse1 #a cassie1 #a_/b jasm9e1 #a_/d ,extract ( civet1 #c oz4 ,indep5d5tly ( ! mat]ials employ$ be+ diff]5t to ! orig9al ,engli% recipe1 x mu/ be rememb]$ t all ! ,fr5* p]fumes are made ( br&y1 i4e4 grape _s2 :]eas ! ,engli% p]fumes are made ) corn _s1 :i* alone modifies _! odor4 ,?\gh good = "s mixtures1 yet = o!rs ! grape _s is v objectionable1 on acc\nt ( ! pr$om9ance ( its own aroma4 ,we h spok5 ( ! diff]5ce 9 ! odor betwe5 ! ,engli% & ,fr5* _s2 ! m>k$ di/9ction ( ,briti% & ,p>isian p]fumes made accord+ to ! same recipes is entirely due to ! diff]5t spirits employ$4 ,ow+ to ! /rong b\quet1 z ! ,fr5* say1 ( _! _s 9 comp>ison ) ours1 ! cont95tal p]fum]s claim a sup]iority 9 ! quality ( _! p]fumes4 ,n[1 al?\gh we c&idly admit t "s odors are bett] :5 prep>$ ) grape _s ?an ) t f corn _s1 yet !re are o!rs :i* are und\bt$ly ! be/ :5 prep>$ ) _s d]iv$ f ! latt] s\rce4 ,musk1 amb]gris1 civet1 violet1 tub]euse1 & jasm9e1 if we require to reta9 _! true aroma :5 9 solution 9 alcohol1 mu/ be made ) ! ,briti% _s4 ,all ! citr9e odors1 v]ve9e1 vuln]>y wat]s1 ,eau de ,cologne1 ,eau de ,portugal1 ,eau d',arquebuzade1 & lav5d]1 c alone be br\ght to p]fection by us+ ! ,fr5* _s 9 _! manufacture4 ,if extract ( jasm9e1 or extract ( violet1 c41 be made ) ! ,fr5* or br&y _s1 ! true *>act]i/ic odor ( ! fl[] is lo/ to ! olfactory n]ve--s completely does ! oean?ic e!r ( ! grape _s hide ! fl[]y aroma ( ! otto ( violet 9 solution ) x4 ,?is solves ! p>adox t ,engli% extract ( violet & its comp\nds1 spr+ fl[]s1 c41 is at all times 9 dem& on ! ,cont95t1 al?\gh ! v fl[]s ) :i* we make x are gr[n !re4 ,on ! contr>y1 if an ,engli% p]fum] attempts to make ,eau de ,portugal1 c41 to be> any comp>ison z a f9e odor to t made by ,lub91 ( ,p>is1 )\t us+ grape _s1 8 attempts w prove a failure4 ,true1 he makes ,eau de ,portugal ev5 ) ,engli% corn _s1 b judges ( ! article--& !y alone c /amp its m]it--discov] in/antly ! same diff]5ce z ! connoisseur f9ds out betwe5 ,pat5t ,briti% & =eign br&y4 ,p]haps x may n be out ( place "h to obs]ve t :at is sold 9 ?is c\ntry z ,briti% br&y is 9 tru? grape _s1 t is1 =eign br&y v l>gely dilut$ ) ,engli% _s6 ,by ?is s*eme1 a real semblance to ! =eign br&y flavor is ma9ta9$2 ! diff]5ce 9 duty ^u ,engli% & =eign _s enables ! mak]s ( ! capsul$ article to und]sell ^? :o v5d ! unsophi/icat$ ,cognac4 ,"s *emi/s1 n be+ v deep 9 ! tricks ( trade1 h ?\ght t "s flavor+1 or t oean?ic e!r1 0 us$ to imp>t to ,briti% _s ! ,cognac aroma4 ,an article is ev5 9 ! m>ket call$ ,ess5ce ( ,cognac1 b :i* is no?+ m ?an v badly made butyric e!r4 ,on ! ,cont95t a great deal ( _s is procur$ by ! f]m5tation ( ! molasses f beet-root2 ?is1 ( c\rse1 f9ds its way into ! m>ket1 & is (t5 mix$ ) ! grape _s2 s1 also1 9 ,engl& we h _s f potatoes1 :i* is mix$ 9 ! corn _s4 ,^! adult]ations1 if we may s t]m x1 modify ! relative odors ( ! primitive alcohols4 ,a ,,japanese ,,p]fume4 ,extract ( rose triple1 vitiv]t1 pat*\ly1 ( ea*1 #a_/b p9t4 c$>1 santal1 v]va9e1 #a_/d ,,kew ,,g>d5 ,,nosegay4 ,esprit de n]oli 7,petale71 #a p9t4 cassie1 tub]euse1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a_/b jasm9e1 g]anium1 #a_/b musk1 ( ea*1 #c oz4 amb]gris1 ,,eau ,,des ,,millefleurs4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a p9t4 rose de pomade1 tub]euse1 jasm9e1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 cassie1 violette1 ,extract ( c$>1 #a_/d ,extract ( vanilla1 amb]gris1 ( ea*1 #b oz4 musk1 ,otto ( almonds1 n]oli1 ( ea*1 #aj drops4 cloves1 b]gamot1 #a oz4 ,^! +r$i5ts are to rema9 toge!r = at lea/ a =tnight1 !n filt]$ prior to sale4 ,,millefleurs ,,et ,,lav5d]4 ,ess5ce ( lav5d] 7,mit*am71 #a_/b p9t4 ,eau des millefleurs1 #a ,,decroix',s ,,millefl[] ,,lav5d]4 ,spirits f grape1 #a p9t4 ,fr5* otto ( lav5d]1 #a oz4 ,extract ( amb]gris1 #b oz4 ,! orig9al lav5d] aux millefleurs is t ( ,delcroix2 its peculi> odor is due to ! ,fr5* otto ( lav5d]1 :i*1 al?\gh "s folks l x1 is v inf]ior to ! ,engli% otto ( lav5d]2 h5ce ! =mula fir/ giv5 is f> sup]ior to t by ! inv5tor1 & has almo/ sup]s$$ ! orig9al prep>ations4 ,!re are sev]al o!r comp\nds or b\quets ( :i* lav5d] is ! lead+ +r$i5t1 & f :i* !y take _! "n1 su* z lav5d] & amb]gris1 lav5d] & musk1 lav5d] & m>e*ale1 c41 all ( :i* are compos$ ( f9e spiritu\s ess5ces ( lav5d]1 ) ab\t #ae p] c5t4 ( any ( ! o!r +r$i5ts4 ,,b\quet ,,du ,,m>e*ale4 ,esprit de rose triple1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 vitiv]t1 vanilla1 orris1 ( ea*1 #a_/b tonqu91 ,esprit de n]oli1 ,extract ( musk1 ( ea*1 #a_/d p9t4 amb]gris1 ,otto ( cloves1 ( ea*1 #a_/b dra*m4 santal1 ,,eau ,,de ,,m\ssela9e4 ,b\quet m>e*ale1 #a p9t4 ,extrait de cassie1 jasm9e1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a_/b tub]euse1 rose1 ,otto ( santal1 #b dra*ms4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,montpelli]4 ,extrait de tub]euse1 #a p9t4 rose de pomade1 #a rose triple1 #a ,extract ( musk1 ( ea*1 #a_/d amb]gris1 ,otto ( cloves1 #a-a_/b dra*m4 b]g>mot1 #a_/b oz4 ,,caprice ,,de ,,la ,,mode4 ,extrait de jasm9e1 tub]euse1 ( ea*1 #a_/b p9t4 cassie1 fleur d'orange1 ,otto ( almonds1 #aj drops4 nutmegs1 #aj ,extract ( civet1 #a_/d p9t4 ,,may ,,fl[]s4 ,extract ( rose 7de pomade71 jasm9e1 ( ea*1 #a_/b p9t4 fleur d'orange1 cassie1 vanilla1 #a ,otto ( almonds1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,,neptune1 ,,or ,,naval ,,nosegay4 ,extrait de rose1 triple1 santal1 ( ea*1 #a_/b p9t4 vitiv]t1 pat*\ly1 v]b5a1 #a_/h ,,b\quet ,,( ,,all ,,nations4 ,c\ntries :]e9 ! ,odors are produc$4 ,,turkey1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a_/b p9t4 ,,africa1 ,extract ( jasm9e1 #a_/b ,,engl&1 lav5d]1 #a_/d ,,france1 tub]euse1 #a_/b ,,s\? ,,am]ica1 vanilla1 #a_/d ,,timor1 santal1 #a_/d ,,italy1 violet1 #a ,,h9doo/an1 pat*\ly1 #a_/d ,,ceylon1 ,otto ( citronella1 #a dra*m4 ,,s>d9ia1 lemons1 #a_/d oz4 ,,tonqu91 ,extract ( musk1 #a_/d p9t4 ,,isle ,,( ,,wight ,,b\quet4 ,extract ( orris1 #a_/b p9t4 vitiv]t1 #a_/d santal1 #a rose1 #a_/b ,,b\quet ,,du ,,roi4 ,extract ( jasm9e1 violet1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 rose vanilla1 ( ea*1 #a_/d p9t4 vitiv]t1 musk1 ( ea*1 #a oz4 amb]gris1 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a dra*m4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,la ,,re9e4 ,esprit de rose1 f pomade1 ( ea*1 #a p9t4 ,extrait de violette1 tub]euse1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 #a_/d ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a_/d oz4 ,,rondeletia4 ,! p]fume be>+ ! above "n is und\bt$ly "o ( ! mo/ gratify+ to ! smell+ n]ve t has ev] be5 made4 ,its inv5tors1 ,messrs4 ,hannay & ,dietri*s51 h probably tak5 ! "n ( ?is odor f ! ,rondeletia1 ! ,*yn-l5 ( ! ,*9ese2 or f ! ,r4 odorata ( ! ,we/ ,indies1 :i* has a sweet odor4 ,we h be=e obs]v$ t !re is a simil>ity ( effect ^u ! olfactory n]ve produc$ by c]ta9 odors1 al?\gh d]iv$ f totally diff]5t s\rces3 t1 = in/ance1 otto ( almonds may be mix$ ) extract ( violet 9 su* proportion t1 al?\gh ! odor is increas$1 yet ! "* peculi> to ! violet is n de/roy$4 ,aga93 !re are c]ta9 odors :i*1 on be+ mix$ 9 due proportion1 produce a new aroma1 p]fectly di/9ct & peculi> to itself4 ,?is effect is exemplifi$ by comp>ison ) ! influ5ce ( c]ta9 colors :5 mix$1 ^u ! n]ve ( vision3 su*1 = in/ance1 z :5 yell[ & blue are mix$1 ! result we call gre52 or :5 blue & r$ are unit$1 ! comp\nd color is kn[n z puce or violet4 ,n[ :5 ! odor ( lav5d] & odor ( cloves are mix$1 !y produce a new fragrance1 i4e4 ,rondeletia6 ,x is su* comb9ations t con/itute 9 reality a new p]fume1 :i*1 ?\gh (t5 adv]tis$1 is v r>ely atta9$4 ,jasm9e & pat*\ly produce a novel aroma1 & _m o!rs 9 l mann]2 proportion & relative /r5g?1 :5 s mix$1 mu/ ( c\rse be /udi$1 & ! sub/ances us$ accord+ly4 ,if ! same quantity ( any giv5 otto be dissolv$ 9 a l proportion ( _s1 & ! solution be mix$ 9 equal proportions1 ! /ronge/ odor is in/antly indicat$ by cov]+ or hid+ ! pres5ce ( ! o!r4 ,9 ?is way we discov] t pat*\ly1 lav5d]1 n]oli1 & v]b5a are ! mo/ pot5t ( ! vegetable odors1 & t violet1 tub]euse1 & jasm9e are ! mo/ delicate4 ,_m p]sons w at fir/ consid] t we are ask+ too mu*1 :5 we express a desire to h ! same def]5ce paid to ! olfactory n]ve1 z to ! o!r n]ves t influ5ce our physical pleasures & pa9s4 ,by tutor+ ! olfactory n]ve1 x is capable ( p]ceiv+ matt] 9 ! atmosph]e ( ! mo/ subtle nature3 n only t :i* is pleasant1 b also su* z are unheal?ful4 ,if an unpleasant odor is a w>n+ to seek a pur] atmosph]e1 surely x is wor? :ile to cultivate t p[] :i* enables u to act up to t w>n+ = ! g5]al b5efit ( heal?4 ,to return1 h[ev]1 to ,rondeletia3 x w be se5 by ! annex$ =mulae1 t1 besides ! ma9 +r$i5ts to :i* x owes its peculi> "*--t is1 cloves & lav5d]--x conta9s musk1 vanilla1 c4 ,^! sub/ances are us$ 9 ^! z 9 ne>ly all o!r b\quets = ! sole purpose ( fix+ ! m volatile odors to ! h&k]*ief4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,rondeletia4 ,_s 7br&y #fj o4p471 #a gallon4 ,otto ( lav5d]1 #b oz4 cloves1 #a oz4 roses1 #c dra*ms4 b]gamot1 #a oz4 ,extract ( musk1 vanilla1 ea*1 #a_/d p9t4 amb]gris1 ,! mixture mu/ be made at lea/ a mon? be=e x is fit = sale4 ,v excell5t ,rondeletia may also be made ) ,engli% _s4 ,,b\quet ,,royal4 ,extract ( rose 7f pomade71 #a p9t4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/b ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade1 ea*1 #a_/b violet1 v]b5a1 ea*1 #b-a_/b oz4 cassie1 ,otto ( lemons1 ea*1 #a_/d oz4 b]gamot1 ,extract ( musk1 ea*1 #a oz4 amb]gris1 ,,suave4 ,extract ( tub]euse1 jasm9e1 f pomade1 ea*1 #a p9t4 cassie1 rose1 vanilla1 #e oz4 musk1 ea*1 #b oz4 amb]gris1 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a_/d oz4 cloves1 #a dra*m4 ,,spr+ ,,fl[]s4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade1 ea*1 #a p9t4 violet1 rose1 triple1 #b-a_/b oz4 cassie1 #b-a_/b oz4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #b dra*ms4 ,extract ( amb]gris1 #a oz4 ,! j reputation ( ?is p]fume places x 9 ! fir/ rank ( ! v be/ mixtures t h ev] be5 made by any manufactur+ p]fum]4 ,its odor is truly fl[]y1 b peculi> to itself4 ,be+ unlike any o!r aroma x _c well be imitat$1 *iefly because !re is no?+ t we are acqua9t$ ) t at all resembles ! odor ( ! esprit de rose1 z d]iv$ f mac]at+ rose pomade 9 _s1 to :i*1 & to ! extract ( violet1 nicely c\nt]pois$1 s t nei!r odor pr$om9ates1 ! peculi> "* ( ,spr+ ,fl[]s is due2 ! little amb]gris t is pres5t gives p]man5ce to ! odor ^u ! h&k]*ief1 al?\gh f ! v nature ( ! +r$i5ts x may be said to be a fleet+ odor4 ,spr+ ,fl[]s is an ,engli%man's inv5tion1 b !re is sc>cely a p]fum] 9 ,europe t does n attempt an imitation4 ,,tulip ,,nosegay4 ,ne>ly all ! tulip tribe1 al?\gh beautiful to ! eye1 are inodor\s4 ,! v>iety call$ ! ,duc ,van ,?ol1 h[ev]1 yields an exquisite p]fume1 b x is n us$ by ! manufactur] = ! purpose ( extract+ its odor4 ,he1 h[ev]1 borr[s its poetical "n1 & makes an excell5t imitation ?us3-- ,extract ( tub]euse1 f pomade ea*1 #a p9t4 violet1 rose1 #a_/b orris1 #c oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #c drops4 ,,violette ,,des ,,bois4 ,"u ! head ,violet1 we h already expla9$ ! me?od ( prep>+ ! extract or ess5ce ( t mode/ fl[]4 ,! ,p>isian p]fum]s sell a mixture ( violet1 :i* is v beautiful1 "u ! title ( ! ,violet des ,bois1 or ! ,wood ,violet1 :i* is made ?us3-- ,extract ( violet1 #a p9t4 orris1 #c oz4 cassie1 #c oz4 rose 7f pomade7 #c oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #c drops4 ,?is mixture1 9 a g5]al way1 gives m satisfaction to ! cu/om] ?an ! pure violet4 ,,w9dsor ,,ca/le ,,b\quet4 ,alcohol1 #a p9t4 ,otto ( n]oli1 rose1 ea*1 #a_/d oz4 lav5d]1 b]gamot1 cloves1 #h drops4 ,extract ( orris1 #a p9t4 jasm9e1 ea*1 #a_/d cassie1 musk1 ea*1 #b-a_/b oz4 amb]gris1 ,,ya*t ,,club ,,b\quet4 ,extract ( santal1 #a p9t4 n]oli1 #a jasm9e1 ea*1 #a_/b rose triple1 vanilla1 #a_/d ,fl[]s ( b5zo91 #a_/d oz4 ,we h n[ complet$ ! bran* ( ! ,art ( ,p]fum]y :i* relates to h&k]*ief p]fumes1 or wet p]fum]y4 ,al?\gh we h r too mu* encroa*$ ^u ! space ( ?is "w 9 giv+ ! composition ( s _m b\quets1 yet !re are _m left unnotic$ :i* are popul>4 ,^? t are giv5 are not$ m p>ticul>ly = ! peculi> "* ( _! odor1 & are select$ f m ?an a ?\s& recipes t h be5 practically tri$4 ,^? read]s :o require to "k any?+ ab\t ! simple extracts ( fl[]s are ref]r$ to !m "u _! respective alphabetical titles4 ,,section ,,vii4 ,! previ\s articles h exclusively treat$ ( ,wet ,p]fumes2 ! pres5t matt] relates1 to ,dry ,p]fumes1--sa*et p[d]s1 tablets1 pa/illes1 fumigation by ! aid ( heat ( volatile odor\s res9s1 c4 c4 ,! p]fumes us$ by ! anci5ts 71 und\bt$ly1 no?+ m ?an ! odorif]\s gums :i* naturally exude f v>i\s trees & %rubs indig5\s to ! ,ea/]n hemisph]e3 t !y 7 v ext5sively us$ & mu* valu$1 we h only to read ! ,scriptures = pro(s3--,:o is ?is t come? 444 p]fum$ ) myrrh & frank9c5se1 ) all ! p[d]s ( ! m]*ant8 7,song ( ,solomon1 #c3f47 ,ab/a9+ f ! use ( p]fume 9 ,ea/]n c\ntries is consid]$ z a sign ( humiliation3--,! ,"l w take away ! tablets1 & x %all come to pass t in/ead ( a sweet smell !re %all be a /9k4 7,exod4 #ce3bb2 ,isaiah #c3bj1 #bd47 ,! ^w tablets 9 ?is passage means p]fume boxes1 curi\sly inlaid1 made ( metal1 wood1 & ivory4 ,"s ( ^! boxes may h be5 made 9 ! %ape ( build+s1 :i* w\ld expla9 ! ^w palaces1 9 ,psalm #ad3h3--;,all ?y g>m5ts smell ( myrrh1 & aloes1 & cassia1 out ( ! ivory palaces1 :]eby !y h made !e glad4 ,f :at is said 9 ,matt4 #b3aa1 x w\ld appe> t p]fumes 7 consid]$ among ! mo/ valuable gifts :i* man c\ld be/[2--,& :5 !y 7! wise m57 _h op5$ _! treasures1 !y pres5t$ unto him 7,*ri/7 gifts2 gold1 & frank9c5se1 & myrrh4 ,z f> z we are able to le>n1 all ! p]fumes us$ by ! ,egyptians & ,p]sians dur+ ! e>ly p]iod ( ! _w 7 dry p]fumes1 consi/+ ( spik5>d 7,n>do/a*ys jatamansi71 myrrh1 olibanum1 & o!r gum-res9s1 ne>ly all ( :i* are /ill 9 use by ! manufactur]s ( odors4 ,among ! curiosities %[n at ,alnwick ,ca/le is a vase t 0 tak5 f an ,egyptian catacomb4 ,x is full ( a mixture ( gum-res91 c41 :i* evolve a pleasant odor to ! pres5t day1 al?\gh probably #cjjj ye>s old4 ,we h no d\bt t ! orig9al use ( ?is vase & its cont5ts 7 = p]fum+ ap>tm5ts1 9 ! same way t pot p\rri is n[ us$4 ,,sa*et ,,p[d]s4 ,! ,fr5* & ,engli% p]fum]s concoct a great v>iety ( ^! sub/ances1 :i* be+ put into silk bags1 or ornam5tal envelopes1 f9d a ready sale1 be+ bo? good to smell & economical z a means ( imp>t+ an agreeable odor to l95 & clo!s z !y lie 9 draw]s4 ,! foll[+ =mula %[s _! composition4 ,e mat]ial is ei!r to be gr\nd 9 a mill1 or p[d]$ 9 a mort>1 & aft]w>ds sift$4 ,,sa*et ,,au ,,cypre4 ,gr\nd rose-wood1 #a lb4 c$>-wood1 #a lb4 santal-wood1 #a lb4 ,otto ( rhodium1 or otto ( rose1 #c dra*ms4 ,mix & sift2 x is !n fit = sale4 ,,sa*et ,a ,,la ,,frangipanne4 ,orris-root p[d]1 #c lbs4 ,vitiv]t p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,santal-wood p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( n]oli1 rose1 ( ea*1 #a dra*m4 santal1 ,musk-pods1 gr\nd1 #a oz4 ,! "n ( ?is sa*et has be5 h&$ d[n to u z be+ d]iv$ f a ,roman ( ! noble family ( ,frangipani4 ,mutio ,frangipani 0 an al*emi/1 evid5tly ( "s repute1 z we h ano!r article call$ rosolis1 or ros-solis1 sun-dew1 an aromatic spiritu\s liquor1 us$ z a /oma*ic1 ( :i* he is said to be ! inv5tor1 compos$ ( w9e1 9 :i* is /eep$ cori&]1 f5nel1 anise1 & musk4 ,,heliotrope ,,sa*et4 ,p[d]$ orris1 #b lbs4 ,rose leaves1 gr\nd1 #a lb4 ,tonqu9 beans1 gr\nd1 #a_/b lb4 ,vanilla beans1 #a_/d lb4 ,gra9 musk1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #e drops4 ,well mix$ by sift+ 9 a co>se sieve1 x is fit = sale4 ,x is "o ( ! be/ sa*ets made1 & is s p]fectly au naturel 9 its odor to ! fl[] f :i* x d]ives its "n1 t no p]son unacqua9t$ ) its composition w\ld1 = an in/ant1 believe x to be any o!r ?an ! real ?+4 ,,lav5d] ,,sa*et4 ,lav5d] fl[]s1 gr\nd1 #a lb4 ,gum b5zo91 9 p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( lav5d]1 #a_/d oz4 ,,sa*et ,a ,,la ,,m>e*ale4 ,p[d] ( santal-wood1 #a_/b lb4 orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose-leaves1 gr\nd1 #a_/d lb4 ,cloves1 gr\nd1 #a_/d lb4 ,cassia-b>k1 #a_/d lb4 ,gra9 musk1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,,sa*et ,a ,,la ,,m\ssela9e4 ,vitiv]t1 9 p[d]1 #a lb4 ,santal-wood1 ,orris1 ea*1 #a_/b lb4 ,black-currant leaves 7casse71 #a_/b lb4 ,b5zo91 9 p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( ?yme1 #e drops4 roses1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,,millefleur ,,sa*et4 ,lav5d]-fl[]s1 gr\nd1 ,orris1 ea*1 #a lb4 ,rose-leaves1 ,b5zo91 ,tonqu91 ,vanilla1 ea*1 #a_/d lb4 ,santal1 ,musk & civet1 #b dra*ms4 ,cloves1 gr\nd1 #a_/d lb4 ,c9namon1 ea*1 #b oz4 ,allspice1 ,,portugal ,,sa*et4 ,dri$ orange-peel1 #a lb4 lemon-peel1 #a_/b lb4 orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( orange-peel1 #a oz4 n]oli1 #a_/d dra*m4 lemon-grass1 #a_/d ,,pat*\ly ,,sa*et4 ,pat*\ly h]b1 gr\nd1 #a lb4 ,otto ( pat*\ly1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,pat*\ly h]b is (t5 sold 9 its natural /ate1 z import$1 ti$ up 9 bundles ( half a p\nd ea*4 ,,pot ,,p\rri4 ,?is is a mixture ( dri$ fl[]s & spices n gr\nd4 ,dri$ lav5d]1 #a lb4 ,:ole rose-leaves1 #a lb4 ,cru%$ orris 7co>se71 #a_/b lb4 ,brok5 cloves1 c9namon1 ea*1 #b oz4 allspice1 ,table salt1 #a lb4 ,we ne$ sc>cely obs]ve t ! salt is only us$ to increase ! bulk & weight ( ! product1 9 ord] to sell x *eap4 ,,olla ,,podrida4 ,?is is a simil> prep>ation to pot p\rri4 ,no regul> =m c be giv5 = x1 z x is g5]ally made1 or knock$ up1 ) ! refuse & sp5t mat]ials d]iv$ f o!r processes 9 ! manufacture ( p]fum]y2 su* z ! sp5t vanilla aft] ! manufacture ( t9cture or extract ( vanilla1 or ( ! gra9 musk f ! extract ( musk1 orris f ! t9cture1 tonqu9 beans1 aft] t9cturation1 c4 c41 mix$ up ) rose-leaves1 lav5d]1 or any odorif]\s h]bs4 ,,rose ,,sa*et4 ,rose heels or leaves1 #a lb4 ,santal-wood1 gr\nd1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/d oz4 ,,santal-,,wood ,,sa*et4 ,?is is a good & economical sa*et1 & simply consi/s ( ! gr\nd wood4 ,santal-wood is to be pur*as$ f "s ( ! :olesale drysalt]s2 ! drug-gr9d]s are ! p to r$uce x to p[d] = y--any attempt to d s at home w be f\nd unavailable1 on acc\nt ( its t\ghness4 ,,sa*et 7)\t a "n74 ,dri$ ?yme1 lemon ?yme1 ( ea*1 #a_/d lb4 m9t1 m>joram1 lav5d]1 #a_/b lb4 rose heels1 #a lb4 ,gr\nd cloves1 #b oz4 ,allspice1 #b oz4 ,musk 9 gra91 #a dra*m4 ,,v]va9 ,,sa*et4 ,lemon-peel1 dri$ & gr\nd1 #a lb4 ?yme1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( lemon-grass1 #a dra*m4 peel1 #a_/b oz4 b]gamot1 #a oz4 ,,vitiv]t ,,sa*et4 ,! fibr\s roots ( ! ,an?oxan?um muricatum be+ gr\nd1 con/itute ! sa*et1 be>+ ! "n z above1 d]iv$ f ! ,tamool "n1 vittie vay]1 & by ! ,p>isian vetiv]4 ,its odor resembles myrrh4 ,vitiv]t is m (t5 sold ti$ up 9 bun*es1 z import$ f ,india1 ?an gr\nd1 & is us$ = ! prev5tion ( mo?1 r ?an z a p]fume4 ,,violet ,,sa*et4 ,black-currant leaves 7casse71 #a lb4 ,rose heels or leaves1 #a lb4 ,orris-root p[d]1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,gra9 musk1 #a ,gum b5zo91 9 p[d]1 #a_/b lb4 ,well mix ! +r$i5ts by sift+2 keep !m toge!r = a week 9 a glass or porcela9 j> be=e (f]+ = sale4 ,!re are _m o!r sa*ets manufactur$ besides ^? already giv51 b = actual trade purposes !re is no advantage 9 keep+ a great] v>iety ?an ^? nam$4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 _m o!r sub/ances us$ 9 a simil> way2 ! mo/ popul> is ! ,,peau ,d',,espagne4 ,peau d',espagne1 or ,spani% sk91 is no?+ m ?an highly p]fum$ lea!r4 ,good s\nd pieces ( wa% lea!r are to be /eep$ 9 a mixture ( ottos1 9 :i* are dissolv$ "s odorif]\s gum-res9s1 ?us3--,otto ( n]oli1 otto ( rose1 santal1 ( ea* half an ounce2 otto ( lav5d]1 v]b5a1 b]gamot1 ( ea* a qu>t] ( an ounce2 otto ( cloves & c9namon1 ( ea* two dra*ms2 ) any o!rs ?\ght fit4 ,9 ?is mixture dissolve ab\t two ounces ( gum b5zo92 n[ place ! sk9 to /eep 9 x = a day or s1 !n hang x ov] a l9e to dry4 ,a pa/e is n[ to be made by rubb+ 9 a mort> "o dra*m ( civet ) "o dra*m ( gra9 musk1 & en\gh solution ( gum acacia or gum tragacan?a to give x a spread+ consi/5ce2 a little ( any ( ! ottos t may be left f ! /eep /irr$ 9 ) ! civet1 c41 greatly assi/s 9 mak+ ! :ole ( an equal body2 ! sk9 be+ cut up into pieces ( ab\t f\r in*es squ>e are !n to be spread ov]1 pla/] fa%ion1 ) ! la/-nam$ compo/2 two pieces be+ put toge!r1 hav+ ! civet pla/] inside !m1 are !n to be plac$ betwe5 %eets ( pap]1 weigh$ or press$1 & left to dry ?us = a week2 f9ally1 ea* d\ble sk91 n[ call$ peau d',espagne1 is to be envelop$ 9 "s pretty silk or sat91 & f9i%$ (f to ! ta/e ( ! v5d]4 ,sk9 or lea!r ?us prep>$ evolves a pleasant odor = ye>s1 & h5ce !y are frequ5tly call$ ! inexhau/ible sa*et4 ,be+ flat1 !y are mu* us$ = p]fum+ writ+-pap]4 ,! la/+ odor ( ,russia lea!r is famili> to all & pleas+ to _m2 its p]fume is due to ! aromatic saund]s-wood ) :i* x is tann$1 & to ! empyreumatic oil ( ! b>k ( ! bir* tree1 ) :i* x is curri$4 ,! odor ( ,russia lea!r is1 h[ev]1 n re*]*e en\gh to be consid]$ z a p]fume2 b1 nev]!less1 lea!r c be impregnat$ by /eep+ 9 ! v>i\s ottos ) any sweet sc5t1 & :i* x reta9s to a rem>kable degree1 especially ) otto ( santal or lemon-grass 7,v]b5a74 ,9 ?is mann] ! odor ( ! peau d',espagne c be greatly v>i$1 & gives great satisfaction1 on acc\nt ( ! p]man5ce ( its p]fume4 ,,p]fum$ ,,lett]-,,pap]4 ,if a piece ( peau d',espagne be plac$ 9 contact ) pap]1 ! latt] absorbs suffici5t odor to be consid]$ z p]fum$2 x is obvi\s t pap] = writ+ ^u mu/ n be t\*$ ) any ( ! odor\s t9ctures or ottos1 on acc\nt ( su* matt]s int]f]+ ) ! fluidity ( ! ink & action ( ! p52 !re=e1 by ! process ( infection1 z x 71 alone c writ+ pap] be p]fum$ to advantage4 ,besides ! sa*ets m5tion$ !re are _m o!r sub/ances appli$ z dry p]fumes1 su* z sc5t$ wadd+1 us$ = quilt+ into all sorts ( articles adapt$ = use 9 a lady's b\doir4 ,p9cu%ions1 jewel cases1 & ! l are l9$ ) x4 ,cotton1 s p]fum$1 is simply /eep$ 9 "s /rong ess5ce ( musk1 c4 ,,p]fum$ ,,book-,,m>k]s4 ,we h se5 t lea!r c be impregnat$ ) odorif]\s sub/ances1 9 ! manufacture ( peau d',espagne2 j s is c>d-bo>d treat$ prior to be+ made up into book-m>ks4 ,9 f9i%+ !m = sale1 ta/e alone dictates _! design2 "s are ornam5t$ ) beads1 o!rs ) embroid]y4 ,,cassolettes ,,& ,,pr9tani]s4 ,cassolettes & ,pr9tani]s are little ivory boxes1 ( v>i\s designs1 p]=at$ 9 ord] to all[ ! escape ( ! odors conta9$ !re94 ,! pa/e us$ = fill+ ^! ivory palaces :]eby we are made glad1 is compos$ ( equal p>ts ( gra9 musk1 amb]gris1 se$s ( ! vanilla-pod1 otto ( roses1 & orris p[d]1 ) en\gh gum acacia1 or gum tragacan?a1 to "w ! :ole toge!r into a pa/e4 ,^! ?+s are n[ pr9cipally us$ = p]fum+ ! pocket or reticule1 mu* 9 ! same way t ornam5tal silv] & gold v9agrettes are us$4 ,,pa/ils4 ,!re is no d\bt :atev] t ! orig9 ( ! use ( pa/ils1 or pa/illes1 z !y are m (t5 call$1 f ! ,fr5*1 has be5 d]iv$ f ! use ( inc5se at ! alt>s ( ! temples dur+ ! religi\s s]vices3--,accord+ to ! cu/om ( ! prie/'s (fice1 8 lot 7,za*>ias'7 0 to burn inc5se :5 he w5t into ! temple ( ! ,"l4 7,luke #a3i47 ,& ?\ %alt make an alt> to burn inc5se4444 ,& ,a>on %all burn !reon sweet inc5se e morn+ :5 he dresse? ! lamps1 & at ev5 :5 he lighte? ! lamps he %all burn inc5se ^u x4 7,exodus #cj47 ,an analog\s practice is 9 use to ! pres5t day 9 ! ,roman ,ca?olic *ur*es1 b1 in/ead ( be+ consum$ ^u an alt>1 ! inc5se is burn$ 9 a c5s]1 z d\btless _m ( our read]s h se54 ,z soon z ! signal 0 giv5 by ! *ief prie/ ! inc5se 0 k9dl$1 ! holy place 0 fill$ ) p]fume1 & ! congregation )\t jo9$ 9 pray]s4 7,c>p5t]s ,temple s]vice ( ! ,hebrews47 ,,! ,,c5s]4 ,on ! walls ( e temple 9 ,egypt1 f ,m]oee to ,memphis1 ! c5s] is depict$ smok+ be=e ! presid+ deity ( ! place2 on ! walls ( ! tombs gl[ 9 bright colors ! prep>ation ( spices & p]fumes4 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum !re is a vase 7,no4 #beie7 ! body ( :i* is int5d$ to conta9 a lamp1 ! sides be+ p]=at$ to admit ! heat f ! flame to act ^u ! project+ tubes2 :i* are int5d$ to conta9 ottos ( fl[]s plac$ 9 ! small vases at ! end ( ! tubes2 ! heat volatilizes ! ottos1 & quickly p]fumes an ap>tm5t4 ,?is vase or c5s] is f an ,egyptian catacomb4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,c5s]4 ,! ,c5s]1 z us$ 9 ! holy places1 is made ei!r ( brass1 ,g]man silv]1 or ! preci\s metals2 its =m some:at resembles a sauc] & an inv]t$ cup1 :i* latt] is p]=at$1 to all[ ! escape ( ! p]fume4 ,9 ! out] sauc] is plac$ an inn] "o ( copp]1 :i* c be tak5 out & fill$ ) ignit$ *>coal4 ,:5 9 use1 ! ignit$ c>bon is plac$ 9 ! c5s]1 & is !n cov]$ ) ! inc5se2 ! heat rapidly volatilizes x 9 visible fumes4 ,! effect is assi/$ by ! inc5se-be>] sw++ ! c5s]1 atta*$ to ?ree long *a9s1 9 ! air4 ,! mann] ( sw++ ! c5s] v>ies slightly 9 ! *ur*es 9 ,rome1 9 ,france1 & 9 ,engl&1 "s hold+ x above ! head4 ,at ,,la ,,madele9e ! me?od is always to give ! c5s] a full sw+ at ! greate/ l5g? ( ! *a9s ) ! "r h&1 & to cat* x up %ort ) ! left h&4 ,sev]al samples ( inc5se prep>$ = alt> s]vice1 z s5t out by ,mr4 ,m>t91 ( ,liv]pool1 appe> to be no?+ m ?an gum olibanum1 ( indiff]5t quality1 & n at all l ! composition z especially comm&$ by ,god1 ! =m = :i* is giv5 9 full 9 ,exodus4 ,! pa/ils ( ! mod]ns are really b a v slight modification ( ! inc5se ( ! anci5ts4 ,= _m ye>s !y 7 call$ ,osselets ( ,cyprus4 ,9 ! old books on ph>macy a c]ta9 mixture ( ! !n kn[n gum-res9s 0 call$ ,suffitus1 :i* be+ ?r[n ^u hot a%es produc$ a vapor :i* 0 consid]$ to be salut>y 9 _m diseases4 ,x is "u ! same impression t pa/ils are n[ us$1 or at lea/ to cov] ! mal odeur ( ! sick-*amb]4 ,!re is n mu* v>iety 9 ! =mula ( ! pa/ils t are n[ 9 use2 we h fir/ ! ,,indian1 ,,or ,,yell[ ,,pa/ils4 ,santal-wood1 9 p[d]1 #a lb4 ,gum b5zo91 #a-a_/b lb4 ,tolu1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( santal1 cassia1 ea*1 #c dra*ms4 cloves1 ,nitrate ( potass1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,mucilage ( tragacan?a1 q4s4 to make ! :ole into a /iff pa/e4 ,! b5zo91 santal-wood1 & ,tolu1 are to be p[d]$ & mix$ by sift+ !m1 add+ ! ottos4 ,! nitre be+ dissolv$ 9 ! mucilage1 is !n add$4 ,aft] well beat+ 9 a mort>1 ! pa/ils are =m$ 9 %ape ) a pa/il m\ld1 & gradually dri$4 ,! ,*9ese jo/icks are ( a simil> composition1 b conta9 no ,tolu4 ,jo/icks are burn$ z inc5se 9 ! temples ( ! ,buddahs 9 ! ,cele/ial ,empire1 & to su* an ext5t z to greatly enhance ! value ( santal-wood4 ,,dr4 ,,p>is',s ,,pa/ils4 ,b5zo91 ,casc>illa1 ( ea*1 #a_/d lb4 ,myrrh1 #a-a_/d oz4 ,*>coal1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,otto ( nutmegs1 ( ea*1 cloves1 #c_/d oz4 ,nitre1 #b oz4 ,mix z 9 ! prec$+4 ,,p]fum]',s ,,pa/ils4 ,well-burn$ *>coal1 #a lb4 ,b5zo91 #c_/d lb4 ,tolu1 ,vanilla pods1 ( ea*1 #a_/d lb4 ,cloves1 ,otto ( santal1 n]oli1 ( ea*1 #b dr4 ,nitre1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,mucilage tragacan?a1 q4s4 ,,piesse',s ,,pa/ils4 ,will[ *>coal1 #a_/b lb4 ,b5zoic acid1 #f oz4 ,otto ( ?yme1 c>away1 rose1 ( ea*1 #a_/b dr4 lav5d]1 cloves1 santal1 ,prior to mix+1 dissolve #c_/d oz4 nitre 9 half a p9t ( di/ill$ or ord9>y rose wat]2 ) ?is solution ?or\ghly wet ! *>coal1 & !n all[ x to dry 9 a w>m place4 ,:5 ! ?us nitrat$ *>coal is q dry1 p\r ov] x ! mix$ ottos1 & /ir 9 ! fl[]s ( b5zo94 ,:5 well mix$ by sift+ 7! sieve is a bett] tool = mix+ p[d]s ?an ! pe/le & mort>71 x is f9ally beat5 up 9 a mort>1 ) en\gh mucilage to b9d ! :ole toge!r1 & ! less t is us$ ! bett]4 ,a great v>iety ( =mulae h be5 publi%$ = ! manufacture ( pa/ils2 n9e-t5?s ( !m conta9 "s woods or b>k1 or aromatic se$s4 ,n[1 :5 su* sub/ances are burn$1 ! *emi/ kn[s t if ! ligne\s fibre conta9$ 9 !m und]goes combu/ion--! sl[ combu/ion--mat]ials are produc$ :i* h f> f a pleasant odor2 9 fact1 ! smell ( burn+ wood pr$om9ates ov] ! volatiliz$ aromatic +r$i5ts2 x is = ?is reason alone t *>coal is us$ 9 lieu ( o!r sub/ances4 ,! use ( *>coal 9 a pa/il is m]ely = burn+1 produc+1 dur+ its combu/ion1 ! heat requir$ to quickly volatilize ! p]fum+ mat]ial ) :i* x is surr\nd$4 ,! product ( ! combu/ion ( *>coal is inodor\s1 & !re=e does n 9 any way int]f]e ) ! fragrance ( ! pa/il4 ,su* is1 h[ev]1 n ! case ) any +r$i5ts t may be us$ t are n 9 !mselves p]fectly volatile by ! aid ( a small increm5t ( heat4 ,if combu/ion takes place1 :i* is always ! case ) all ! aromatic woods t are introduc$ into pa/ils1 we h1 besides ! volatiliz$ otto :i* ! wood conta9s1 all ! comp\nds naturally produc$ by ! sl[ burn+ ( ligne\s matt]1 spoil+ ! true odor ( ! o!r +r$i5ts volatiliz$4 ,!re are1 x is true1 c]ta9 k9ds ( fumigation adopt$ occasionally :]e ^! products are ! mat]ials s\ght4 ,by su* fumigation1 z :5 br[n pap] is all[$ to sm\ld] 7und]go sl[ combu/ion7 9 a room = ! purpose ( cov]+ bad smells4 ,by ! quick combu/ion ( tobacco1 t is1 combu/ion ) flame1 !re is no odor develop$1 b by its sl[ combu/ion1 accord+ to ! me?od adopt$ by ^? :o indulge 9 ! we$1 ! famili> aroma1 ! cl\d1 is g5]at$1 & did n exi/ ready =m$ 9 ! tobacco4 ,n[ a well-made pa/il %\ld n develope any odor ( its own1 b simply volatilize t fragrant matt]1 :atev] x be1 us$ 9 its manufacture4 ,we ?9k t ! f\r? =mula giv5 above c>ries out t object4 ,x does n foll[ t ! =mulae t are "h giv5 produce at all times ! odor t is mo/ approv$2 x is evid5t t 9 pa/ils1 z ) o!r p]fumes1 a great deal dep5ds ^u ta/e4 ,_m p]sons v mu* object to ! aroma ( b5zo91 :ile !y greatly admire ! fumes ( casc>illa4 ,,! ,,p]fume ,,lamp4 ,%ortly aft] ! discov]y ( ! peculi> prop]ty ( spongy plat9um rema9+ inc&esc5t 9 ! vapor ( alcohol1 ! late ,mr4 ,i4 ,deck1 ( ,cambridge1 made a v +5i\s application ( x = ! purpose ( p]fum+ ap>tm5ts4 ,an ord9>y _s lamp is fill$ ) ,eau de ,cologne1 & trimm$ ) a wick 9 ! usual mann]4 ,ov] ! c5tre ( ! wick1 & /&+ ab\t ! eigh? ( an in* above x1 a small ball ( spongy plat9um is plac$1 ma9ta9$ 9 its position by be+ fix$ to a ?9 glass rod1 :i* is ins]t$ into ! wick4 ,illu/ration3 ,p]fume ,lamp4 ,?us arrang$1 ! lamp is to be light$ & all[$ to burn until ! plat9um becomes r$ hot2 ! flame may !n be bl[n out1 nev]!less ! plat9um rema9s inc&esc5t = an indef9ite p]iod4 ,! proximity ( a r$-hot ball to a mat]ial ( ! physical quality ( ,eau de ,cologne1 diffus$ ov] a surface ( cotton wick1 z a matt] ( c\rse causes its rapid evaporation1 & z a consequ5ce ! diffusion ( odor4 ,in/ead ( ! lamp be+ *>g$ ) ,eau de ,cologne1 we may use ,eau de ,portugal1 v]va9e1 or any o!r spiritu\s ess5ce4 ,sev]al p]fum]s make a p>ticul> mixture = ?is purpose1 :i* is call$ ,,eau ,a ,,brul]4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( b5zo91 #b oz4 vanilla1 #a oz4 ,otto ( ?yme1 m9t1 ( ea*1 #a_/b dra*m4 nutmeg1 ,ano!r =m1 call$ ,,eau ,,p\r ,,brul]4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t4 ,b5zoic acid1 #a_/b oz4 ,otto ( ?yme1 ( ea*1 #a dra*m4 c>away1 b]gamot1 #b oz4 ,p]sons :o are 9 ! habit ( us+ ! p]fume lamps w1 h[ev] frequ5tly obs]ve t1 :atev] diff]5ce !re may be 9 ! composition ( ! fluid introduc$ into ! lamp1 !re is a degree ( simil>ity 9 ! odor ( ! result :5 ! plat9um is 9 action4 ,?is arises f ! fact1 t s long z !re is ! vapor ( alcohol1 mix$ ) oxyg5-air1 pass+ ov] r$-hot plat9um1 c]ta9 def9ite products always result1 namely1 acetic acid1 aldehyde1 & acetal1 :i* are =m$ m or less & imp>t a peculi> & r agreeable fragrance to ! vapor1 b :i* ov]p[]s any o!r odor t is pres5t4 ,,fumigat+ ,,pap]4 ,!re are two modes ( prep>+ ?is article3-- #a4 ,take %eets ( light c>tridge pap]1 & dip !m into a solution ( alum--say1 alum1 "o ounce2 wat]1 "o p9t4 ,aft] !y are ?or\ghly moi/5$1 let !m be well dri$2 ^u "o side ( ?is pap] spread a mixture ( equal p>ts ( gum b5zo91 olibanum1 & ei!r balm ( ,tolu or ,p]uvian balsam1 or ! b5zo9 may be us$ alone4 ,to spread ! gum1 c41 x is necess>y t !y be melt$ 9 an e>!nw>e vessel & p\r$ ?9ly ov] ! pap]1 f9ally smoo?+ ! surface ) a hot spatula4 ,:5 requir$ = use1 slips ( ?is pap] are held ov] a c&le or lamp1 9 ord] to evaporate ! odor\s matt]1 b n to ignite x4 ,! alum 9 ! pap] prev5ts x a to c]ta9 ext5t f burn+4 #b4 ,%eets ( good light pap] are to be /eep$ 9 a solution ( saltpetre1 9 ! proportions ( two ounces ( ! salt to "o p9t ( wat]1 to be aft]w>ds ?or\ghly dri$4 ,any ( ! odorif]\s gums1 z myrrh1 olibanum1 b5zo91 c41 are to be dissolv$ to saturation 9 rectifi$ _s1 & ) a bru% spread ^u "o side ( ! pap]1 :i*1 be+ hung up1 rapidly dries4 ,slips ( ?is pap] are to be roll$ up z spills1 to be ignit$1 & !n to be bl[n out4 ,! nitre 9 ! pap] causes a cont9uance ( sl[ combu/ion1 diffus+ dur+ t "t ! agreeable p]fume ( ! odorif]\s gums4 ,if two ( ^! %eets ( pap] be press$ toge!r be=e ! surface is dry1 !y w jo9 & become z "o4 ,:5 cut into slips1 !y =m :at are call$ ,odorif]\s ,light]s1 or ,p]fum$ ,spills4 ,,section ,,viii4 ,,p]fum$ ,,soap4 ,! ^w soap1 or sope1 f ! ,greek sapo1 fir/ occurs 9 ! works ( ,pl9y & ,gal54 ,pl9y in=ms u t soap 0 fir/ discov]$ by ! ,gauls1 t x 0 compos$ ( tall[ & a%es1 & t ! ,g]man soap 0 reckon$ ! be/4 ,accord+ to ,sismondi1 ! ,fr5* hi/orian1 a soapmak] 0 includ$ 9 ! ret9ue ( ,*>lemagne4 ,at ,pompeii 7ov]:elm$ by an eruption ( ,vesuvius ,a4,d4 #gi71 a soap-boil]'s %op ) soap 9 x 0 discov]$ dur+ "s excavations made !re n _m ye>s ago4 7,/>ke's ,lett]s f ,italy47 ,f ^! /atem5ts x is evid5t t ! manufacture ( soap is ( v anci5t orig92 inde$1 ,j]emiah figuratively m5tions x--,= ?\gh ?\ wa% !e ) natron1 & take !e mu* soap1 yet ?9e iniquity is m>k$ be=e me4 7,j]4 #b3bb47 ,mr4 ,wilson says t ! e>lie/ record ( ! soap trade 9 ,engl& is to be f\nd 9 a pamphlet 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 pr9t$ 9 #afda1 entitl$ ,a %ort ,acc\nt ( ! ,soap ,bus9ess4 ,x speaks m p>ticul>ly ab\t ! duty1 :i* 0 !n levi$ = ! fir/ "t1 & conc]n+ c]ta9 pat5ts :i* 7 grant$ to p]sons1 *iefly ,popi% recusants1 = "s pret5d$ new inv5tion ( :ite soap1 :i* 9 tru? 0 n s4 ,suffici5t is said "h to prove t at t "t soap-mak+ 0 no inconsid]able art4 ,x w\ld be out ( place "h to ent] into ! details ( soap-mak+1 because p]fum]s d n manufacture t sub/ance1 b are m]ely remelt]s1 to use a trade t]m4 ,! dy] pur*ases 8 dye-/uffs f ! drysalt]s already fabricat$1 & ^! are m]ely modifi$ "u 8 h&s to ! v>i\s purposes he requires2 s ) ! p]fum]1 he pur*ases ! v>i\s soaps 9 _! raw /ate f ! soap-mak]s1 ^! he mixes by remelt+1 sc5ts & colors accord+ to ! article to be produc$4 ,! prim>y soaps are divid$ into h>d & s(t soaps3 ! h>d soaps conta9 soda z ! base2 ^? :i* are s(t are prep>$ ) pota%4 ,^! are aga9 divisible into v>ieties1 accord+ to ! fatty matt] employ$ 9 _! manufacture1 also accord+ to ! proportion ( alkali4 ,! mo/ important ( ^! to ! p]fum] is :at is t]m$ curd soap1 z x =ms ! basis ( all ! highly-sc5t$ soaps4 ,,curd ,,soap is a ne>ly neutral soap1 ( pure soda & f9e tall[4 ,,oil ,,soap1 z made 9 ,engl&1 is an uncolor$ comb9ation ( olive oil & soda1 h>d1 close gra91 & conta9s b little wat] 9 comb9ation4 ,,ca/ile ,,soap1 z import$ f ,spa91 is a simil> comb9ation1 b is color$ by protosulphate ( iron4 ,! solution ( ! salt be+ add$ to ! soap aft] x is manufactur$1 f ! pres5ce ( alkali1 decomposition ( ! salt takes place1 & protoxide ( iron is diffus$ ?r\gh ! soap ( its well-kn[n black color1 giv+ ! famili> m>bl$ appe>ance to x4 ,:5 ! soap is cut up into b>s1 & expos$ to ! air1 ! protoxide passes by absorption ( oxyg5 into p]oxide2 h5ce1 a section ( a b> ( ,ca/ile soap %[s ! out] edge r$-m>bl$1 :ile ! int]ior is black-m>bl$4 ,"s ,ca/ile soap is n artificially color$1 b a simil> appe>ance is produc$ by ! use ( a b>illa or soda conta9+ sulphuret ( ! alkal9e base1 & at o!r times f ! pres5ce ( an iron salt4 ,,m>9e ,,soap is a cocoanut-oil soap1 ( soda conta9+ a great excess ( alkali1 & mu* wat] comb9ation4 ,,yell[ ,,soap is a soda soap1 ( tall[1 res91 ( l>d1 c4 c4 ,,palm ,,soap is a soda soap ( palm oil1 reta9+ ! peculi> odor & color ( ! oil un*ang$4 ,! odorif]\s pr9ciple ( palm oil resembl+ t f orris-root1 c be dissolv$ out ( x by t9cturation ) alcohol2 l ottos g5]ally1 x rema9s intact 9 ! pres5ce ( an alkali1 h5ce1 soap made ( palm oil reta9s ! odor ( ! oil4 ,! public require a soap t w n %r9k & *ange %ape aft] !y pur*ase x4 ,x mu/ make a pr(use la!r dur+ ! act ( wa%+4 ,x mu/ n leave ! sk9 r\gh aft] us+ x4 ,x mu/ be ei!r q inodor\s or h a pleasant aroma4 ,none ( ! above soaps possess all ^! qualities 9 union1 &1 !re=e1 to produce su* an article is ! object ( ! p]fum] 9 8 remelt+ process4 ,prior to ! removal ( ! excise duty ^u soap1 9 #ahec1 x 0 a comm]cial impossibility = a p]fum] to manufacture soap1 because ! law did n all[ less ?an "o ton ( soap to be made at a "t4 ,?is law1 :i*1 ) c]ta9 modifications _h be5 9 =ce s9ce ! reign ( ,*>les ,i1 conf9$ ! actual manufacture ( t article to ! h&s ( a few capitali/s4 ,su* law1 h[ev]1 0 b ( little importance to ! p]fum]1 z a soap-boil+ plant & app>atus is n v compatible ) a laboratory ( fl[]s2 yet1 9 "s exceptional in/ances1 ^! excise regulations int]f]$ ) him2 su*1 = in/ance1 z t 9 mak+ s(t soap ( l>d & pota%1 kn[n1 :5 p]fum$1 z ,creme d',am&e2 or unsc5t$1 z a ,saponace\s ,cream1 :i* has1 9 consequ5ce ( t law1 be5 entirely ?r[n into ! h&s ( our cont95tal neighbors4 ,,fig ,,s(t ,,soap is a comb9ation ( oils1 pr9cipally olive oil ( ! commone/ k9d1 ) pota%4 ,,naples ,,s(t ,,soap is a fi% oil 7mix$ ) ,lucca oil7 & pota%1 color$ br[n = ! ,london %av]s1 reta9+1 :5 pure1 its unsophi/icat$ fi%y odor4 ,! above soaps con/itute ! real body or base ( all ! fancy sc5t$ soaps z made by ! p]fum]s1 :i* are mix$ & remelt$ accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3-- ,! remelt+ process is exce$+ly simple4 ,! b> soap is fir/ cut up into ?9 slabs1 by press+ !m aga9/ a wire fix$ ^u ! work+ b5*4 ,?is cutt+ wire 7piano wire is ! k9d7 is made taut ^u ! b5*1 by be+ atta*$ to two screws4 ,^! screws regulate ! height ( ! wire f ! b5*1 & h5ce ! ?ickness ( ! slabs f ! b>s4 ,! soap is cut up into ?9 slabs1 because x w\ld be next to impossible to melt a b> :ole1 on acc\nt ( soap be+ "o ( ! wor/ conductors ( heat4 ,! melt+ pan is an iron vessel1 ( v>i\s sizes1 capable ( hold+ f #bh lbs4 to #c cwt41 heat$ by a /eam jacket1 or by a wat]-ba?4 ,! soap is put into ! pan by degrees1 or :at is 9 ! v]nacul> call$ r\nds1 t is1 ! ?9 slabs are plac$ p]p5dicul>ly all r\nd ! side ( ! pan2 a few ounces ( wat] are at ! same "t introduc$1 ! /eam ( :i* assi/s ! melt+4 ,! pan be+ cov]$ up1 9 ab\t half an h\r ! soap w h run d[n4 ,ano!r r\nd is !n introduc$1 & s cont9u$ e half h\r until ! :ole melt+ is f9i%$4 ,! m wat] a soap conta9s1 ! easi] is x melt$2 h5ce a r\nd ( m>9e soap1 or ( new yell[ soap1 w run d[n 9 half ! "t t x requires = old soap4 ,:5 diff]5t soaps are be+ remelt$ to =m "o k9d :5 f9i%$1 ! v>i\s sorts are to be ins]t$ into ! pan 9 alt]nate r\nds1 b ea* r\nd mu/ consi/ only ( "o k9d1 to insure uni=mity ( condition4 ,z ! soap melts1 9 ord] to mix x1 & to break up lumps1 c41 x is f "t to "t crut*$4 ,! crut* is an in/rum5t or tool = /irr+ up ! soap2 its "n is indicative ( its =m1 a long h&le ) a %ort cross--an inv]t$ ',t'1 curv$ to fit ! curve ( ! pan4 ,:5 ! soaps are all melt$1 x is !n color$1 if s requir$1 & !n ! p]fume is add$1 ! :ole be+ ?or\ghly incorporat$ ) ! crut*4 ,illu/ration3 ,frame & ,slab ,gauge4 ,! soap is !n turn$ into ! frame4 ,! frame is a box made 9 sections1 9 ord] t x c be tak5 to pieces1 s t ! soap c be cut up :5 cold2 ! sections or lifts are frequ5tly made ( ! wid? ( ! int5d$ b> ( soap4 ,illu/ration3 ,b>r+ ,gauge4 ,two or ?ree days aft] ! soap has be5 9 ! frame1 x is cool en\gh to cut into slabs ( ! size ( ! lifts or sections ( ! frame2 ^! slabs are set up edgeways to cool = a day or two m2 x is !n b>r$ by means ( a wire4 ,! lifts ( ! frame regulate ! wid?s ( ! b>s2 ! gauge regulates _! bread?4 ,! d5sity ( ! soap be+ pretty well kn[n1 ! gauges are made s t ! soap-cutt] c cut up ! b>s ei!r into f\rs1 sixes1 or eights2 t is1 ei!r into squ>es ( f\r1 six1 or eight to ! p\nd weight4 ,latt]ly1 v>i\s me*anical arrangem5ts h be5 introduc$ = soap-cutt+1 :i* 9 v l>ge e/abli%m5ts1 su* z ^? at ,m>seilles 9 ,france1 are great economis]s ( labor2 b 9 ,engl& ! wire is /ill us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,squ>+ ,gauge4 ,illu/ration3 ,soap ,scoop4 ,= mak+ tablet %apes ! soap is fir/ cut into squ>es1 & is !n put into a m\ld1 & f9ally "u a press--a modification ( an ord9>y die or co9 press4 ,balls are cut by h&1 ) ! aid ( a little tool call$ a scoop1 made ( brass or ivory1 be+1 9 fact1 a r+-%ap$ knife4 ,balls are also made 9 ! press ) a m\ld ( appropriate =m4 ,! grotesque =m & fruit %ape are also obta9$ by ! press & appropriate m\lds4 ,! fruit-%ap$ soaps1 aft] leav+ ! m\ld1 are dipp$ into melt$ wax1 & are !n color$ accord+ to artificial fruit-mak]s' rules4 ,illu/ration3 ,soap ,press4 ,illu/ration3 ,m\lds4 ,! v>iegat$ color$ soaps are produc$ by add+ ! v>i\s colors1 su* z smalt & v]milion1 previ\sly mix$ ) wat]1 to ! soap 9 a melt$ /ate2 ^! colors are b slightly crut*$ 91 h5ce ! /reaky appe>ance or p>ty color ( ! soap2 ?is k9d is also t]m$ m>bl$ soap4 ,,almond ,,soap4 ,?is soap1 by "s p]sons suppos$ to be made ( sweet almond oil1 & by o!rs to be a my/ic comb9ation ( sweet & bitt] almonds1 is 9 reality con/itut$ ?us3-- ,f9e/ curd soap1 #a cwt4 oil soap1 #ad lbs4 m>9e1 #ad lbs4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a-a_/b lb4 cloves1 #a_/d lb4 c>away1 #a_/b lb4 ,by ! "t t half ! curd soap is melt$1 ! m>9e soap is to be add$2 :5 ?is is well crut*$1 !n add ! oil soap1 & f9i% ) ! rema9+ curd4 ,:5 ! :ole is well melt$1 & j be=e turn+ x into ! frame1 crut* 9 ! mix$ p]fume4 ,"s ( ! soap h\ses endeavor$ to use ,mirabane or artificial ess5ce ( almonds 7see ,,almond7 = p]fum+ soap1 x be+ f> *eap] ?an ! true otto ( almonds2 b ! application has prov$ s unsatisfactory 9 practice1 t x has be5 ab&on$ by ,messrs4 ,gibbs1 ,p9eau 7( ,p>is71 ,gosnell1 & o!rs :o us$ x4 ,,camphor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #bh lbs4 ,otto ( rosem>y1 #a-a_/d lb4 ,camphor1 #a-a_/d lb4 ,r$uce ! camphor to p[d] by rubb+ x 9 a mort> ) ! addition ( an ounce or m ( almond oil1 !n sift x4 ,:5 ! soap is melt$ & ready to turn out1 add ! camphor & rosem>y1 us+ ! crut* = mix+4 ,,honey ,,soap4 ,be/ yell[ soap1 #a cwt4 ,fig s(t soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto ( citronella1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,,:ite ,,w9dsor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #a cwt4 ,m>9e soap1 #ba lbs4 ,oil soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto ( c>away1 #a-a_/b lbs4 ?yme1 rosem>y1 ( ea* #a_/b lb4 cassia1 cloves1 ( ea* #a_/d lb4 ,,br[n ,,w9dsor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #c_/d cwt4 ,m>9e soap1 #a_/d ,yell[ soap1 #a_/d ,oil soap1 #a_/d ,br[n color+ 7c>amel71 #a_/b p9t4 ,otto ( c>away1 cloves1 ?yme1 ea*1 #a_/b lb4 cassia1 petit gra91 ,fr5* lav5d]1 ,,s& ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,m>9e soap1 #g lbs4 ,sift$ silv] s&1 #bh lbs4 ,otto ( ?yme1 cassia1 c>away1 ea*1 #b oz4 ,fr5* lav5d]1 ,,full]',s ,,e>? ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #aj-a_/b lbs4 ,m>9e soap1 #c-a_/b lbs4 ,full]'s e>? 7bak$71 #ad lbs4 ,otto ( ,fr5* lav5d]1 #b oz4 origanum1 #a oz4 ,! above =ms are indicative ( ! me?od adopt$ = p]fum+ soaps :ile hot or melt$4 ,all ! v highly sc5t$ soaps are1 h[ev]1 p]fum$ cold1 9 ord] to avoid ! loss ( sc5t1 #bj p] c5t4 ( p]fume be+ evaporat$ by ! hot process4 ,! v>i\sly nam$ soaps1 f ! sublime ,sultana to ! ridicul\s ,turtle's ,m>r[1 we _c ( c\rse be expect$ to notice2 ! read] may1 h[ev]1 re/ assur$ t he has lo/ no?+ by _! omission4 ,! receipts giv5 produce only ! f9e/ quality ( ! article nam$4 ,:]e *eap soaps are requir$1 n mu* acum5 is necess>y to disc]n t by omitt+ ! exp5sive p]fumes1 or less5+ ! quantity1 ! object desir$ is atta9$4 ,/ill l[] qualities ( sc5t$ soap are made by us+ great] proportions ( yell[ soap1 & employ+ a v common curd1 omitt+ ! oil soap altoge!r4 ,,sc5t+ ,,soaps ,,hot4 ,9 ! previ\s rem>ks1 ! me?ods expla9$ ( sc5t+ soap involv$ ! necessity ( melt+ x4 ,! high temp]ature ( ! soap "u ^! circum/ances involves ! obvi\s loss ( a great deal ( p]fume by evaporation4 ,) v highly sc5t$ soaps1 & ) p]fume ( an exp5sive "*1 ! loss ( ottos is too great to be borne 9 a comm]cial s5se2 h5ce ! adoption ( ! plan ( ,,sc5t+ ,,soaps ,,cold4 ,?is me?od is exce$+ly conv5i5t & economical = sc5t+ small bat*es1 involv+ m]ely me*anical labor1 ! tools requir$ be+ simply an ord9>y c>p5t]'s plane1 & a good m>ble mort>1 & lignum vitae pe/le4 ,! woodwork ( ! plane mu/ be fa%ion$ at ea* end1 s t :5 plac$ ov] ! mort> x rema9s firm & n easily mov$ by ! p>allel pressure ( ! soap aga9/ its project+ blade4 ,to comm5ce op]ations1 we take fir/ #g lbs41 #ad lbs41 or #ba lbs4 ( ! b>s ( ! soap t x is int5d$ to p]fume4 ,! plane is n[ laid upside d[n across ! top ( ! mort>4 ,?+s be+ ?us arrang$1 ! :ole ( ! soap is to be pu%$ across ! plane until x is all r$uc$ into f9e %av+s4 ,l ! ,fr5* ,*>bonni]1 :o does n saw ! wood1 b woods ! saw1 s x w be p]ceiv$ t 9 ?is process we d n plane ! soap1 b t we soap ! plane1 ! %av+s ( :i* fall lightly into ! mort> z quickly z produc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,soap+ ! ,plane4 ,soap1 z g5]ally receiv$ f ! mak]1 is ! prop] condition = ?us work+2 b if x has be5 9 /ock any "t x becomes too h>d1 & mu/ h f "o to ?ree ounces ( di/ill$ wat] spr9kl$ 9 ! %av+ = e p\nd ( soap employ$1 & mu/ lay = at lea/ tw5ty-f\r h\rs to be absorb$ be=e ! p]fume is add$4 ,:5 x is det]m9$ :at size ! cakes ( soap are to be1 :at !y are to sell =1 & :at x is int5d$ !y %\ld co/1 !n ! mak] c measure out 8 p]fume4 ,9 a g5]al way1 soaps sc5t$ 9 ?is way retail f #ds4 to #ajs4 p] p\nd1 be>+ ab\t #ajj p] c5t4 pr(it1 :i* is n too mu* consid]+ _! limit$ sale4 ,! soap be+ 9 a prop] physical condition ) reg>d to moi/ure1 c41 is n[ to h ! p]fume well /irr$ into x4 ,! pe/le is !n set to "w = ! process ( incorporation4 ,aft] a c\ple ( h\rs ( w>m ex]cise1 ! soap is g5]ally expect$ to be free f /reaks1 & to be ( "o uni=m consi/5cy4 ,= p]fum+ soap 9 l>ge portions by ! cold process1 in/ead ( us+ ! pe/le & mort> z an incorporator1 x is m conv5i5t & economical to employ a mill simil> 9 con/ruction to a cake *ocolate-mill1 or a flake cocoa-mill2 any me*anical app>atus t answ]s = mix+ pa/e & cru%+ lumps w s]ve pretty well = bl5d+ soap toge!r4 ,be=e go+ into ! mill1 ! soap is to be r$uc$ to %av+s1 & h ! sc5t & color /irr$ 92 aft] leav+ x1 ! flakes or rib&s ( soap are to be f9ally b\nd toge!r by ! pe/le & mort> into "o solid mass2 x is !n weigh$ out 9 quantities = ! tablets requir$1 & m\ld$ by ! h& into egg-%ap$ masses2 ea* piece be+ left 9 ?is condition1 sep>ately laid 9 r[s on a %eet ( :ite pap]1 dries suffici5tly 9 a day or s to be fit = ! press1 :i* is ! same z t previ\sly m5tion$4 ,x is usual1 be=e plac+ ! cakes ( soap 9 ! press1 to du/ !m ov] ) a little />*-p[d]1 or else to v slightly oil ! m\ld2 ei!r ( ^! plans prev5ts ! soap f adh]+ to ! lett]s or emboss$ "w ( ! m\ld--a condition ess5tial = turn+ out a clean well-/ruck tablet4 ,! body ( all ! f9e soaps m5tion$ bel[ %\ld consi/ ( ! f9e/ & :ite/ curd soap1 or ( a soap previ\sly melt$ & color$ to ! requir$ %ade1 ?us3-- ,,rose-,,color$ ,,soap is curd soap /a9$ ) v]milion1 gr\nd 9 wat]1 ?or\ghly incorporat$ :5 ! soap is melt$1 & n v hot4 ,,gre5 ,,soap is a mixture ( palm oil soap & curd soap1 to :i* is add$ p[d]$ smalt gr\nd ) wat]4 ,,blue ,,soap1 curd soap color$ ) smalt4 ,,br[n ,,soap1 curd soap ) c>amel1 i4e4 burnt sug>4 ,! int5sity ( color v>ies1 ( c\rse1 ) ! quantity ( color+4 ,"s k9ds ( soap become color$ or t9t$ to a suffici5t ext5t by ! m]e addition ( ! ottos us$ = sc5t+1 su* z sp]maceti soap1 lemon soap1 c41 :i* become ( a beautiful pale lemon color by ! m]e mix+ ( ! p]fume ) ! curd soap4 ,,otto ,,( ,,rose ,,soap4 7,to retail at #ajs4 p] p\nd47 ,curd soap 7previ\sly color$ ) v]milion71 #d-a_/b lbs4 ,otto ( rose1 #a oz4 ,spiritu\s extract ( musk1 #b oz4 ,otto ( santal1 #a_/d oz4 g]anium1 #a_/d oz4 ,mix ! p]fumes1 /ir !m 9 ! soap %av+s1 & beat toge!r4 ,,tonqu9 ,,musk ,,soap4 ,pale br[n-color$ curd soap1 #e lbs4 ,gra9 musk1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 ,rub ! musk ) ! b]gamot1 !n add x to ! soap1 & beat up4 ,,orange-,,fl[] ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #c-a_/b oz4 ,,santal-,,wood ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,otto ( santal1 #g oz4 b]gamot1 #b oz4 ,,sp]maceti ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #b-a_/b lbs4 lemon1 #a_/b lb4 ,,citron ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #f lbs4 ,otto ( citron1 #c_/d lb4 v]b5a 7lemon-grass71 #a_/b oz4 b]gamot1 #d oz4 lemon1 #b oz4 ,"o ( ! be/ ( fancy soaps t is made4 ,,frangipanne ,,soap4 ,curd soap 7previ\sly color$ light br[n71 #g lbs4 ,civet1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a_/b oz4 santal1 #a-a_/b oz4 rose1 #a_/d oz4 vitiv]t1 #a_/b oz4 ,rub ! civet ) ! v>i\s ottos1 mix1 & beat 9 ! usual mann]4 ,,pat*\ly ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #d-a_/b lbs4 ,otto ( pat*\ly1 #a oz4 santal1 vitiv]t1 ( ea*1 #a_/d oz4 ,,saponace\s ,,cream ,,( ,,almonds4 ,! prep>ation sold "u ?is title is a pota% s(t soap ( l>d4 ,x has a beautiful pe>ly appe>ance1 & has met ) ext5sive dem& z a %av+ soap4 ,be+ also us$ 9 ! manufacture ( ,,emuls9es1 x is an article ( no inconsid]able consumption by ! p]fum]4 ,x is made ?us3-- ,cl>ifi$ l>d1 #g lbs4 ,pota% ( lye 7conta9+ #bf p] c5t4 ( cau/ic pota%71 #c-c_/d lbs4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #c oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #b dra*ms4 ,manipulation4--,melt ! l>d 9 a porcela9 vessel by a salt-wat] ba?1 or by a /eam heat "u #ae lbs4 pressure2 !n run 9 ! lye1 v sl[ly1 agitat+ ! :ole "t2 :5 ab\t half ! lye is 91 ! mixture beg9s to curdle2 x w1 h[ev]1 become s firm t x _c be /irr$4 ,! creme is !n f9i%$1 b is n pe>ly2 x w1 h[ev]1 assume t appe>ance by long trituration 9 a mort>1 gradually add+ ! alcohol1 9 :i* has be5 dissolv$ ! p]fume4 ,,soap ,,p[d]s4 ,^! prep>ations are sold sometimes z a d5tifrice & at o!rs = %av+2 !y are made by r$uc+ ! soap into %av+s by a plane1 !n ?or\ghly dry+ !m 9 a w>m situation1 aft]w>ds gr9d+ 9 a mill1 !n p]fum+ ) any otto desir$4 ,,rypophagon ,,soap4 ,be/ yell[ soap1 ,fig s(t soap1 equal p>ts melt$ toge!r4 ,p]fume ) anise & citronella4 ,,ambrosial ,,cream4 ,color ! grease v /rongly ) alkanet root1 !n proce$ z = ! manufacture ( saponace\s cream4 ,! cream color$ 9 ?is way has a blue t9t2 :5 x is requir$ ( a purple color we h m]ely to /a9 ! :ite saponace\s cream ) a mixture ( v]milion & smalt to ! %ade desir$4 ,p]fume ) otto ( or+eat4 ,,transp>5t ,,s(t ,,soap4 ,solution cau/ic pota% 7,lond4 ,ph471 #f lbs4 ,olive oil1 #a lb4 ,p]fume to ta/e4 ,be=e comm5c+ to make ! soap1 r$uce ! pota% lye to "o half its bulk by cont9u$ boil+4 ,n[ proce$ z = ! manufacture ( saponace\s cream4 ,aft] /&+ a few days1 p\r (f ! wa/e liquor4 ,,transp>5t ,,h>d ,,soap4 ,r$uce ! soap to %av+s1 & dry !m z mu* z possible1 !n dissolve 9 alcohol1 us+ z little _s z w effect ! solution1 !n color & p]fume z desir$1 & ca/ ! product 9 appropriate m\lds2 f9ally dry 9 a w>m situation4 ,until ! ,legislature all[s _s to be us$ = manufactur+ purposes1 free ( duty1 we _c compete ) our neighbors 9 ?is article4 ,,junip] ,,t> ,,soap4 ,?is soap is made f ! t> ( ! wood ( ! ,junip]us communis1 by dissolv+ x 9 a fix$ vegetable oil1 su* z almond or olive oil1 or 9 f9e tall[1 & =m+ a soap by means ( a weak soda lye1 aft] ! cu/om>y mann]4 ,?is yields a mod]ately firm & cle> soap1 :i* may be readily us$ by application to p>ts affect$ ) eruptions at night1 mix$ ) a little wat]1 & c>efully wa%$ (f ! foll[+ morn+4 ,?is soap has lately be5 mu* us$ = eruptive disord]s1 p>ticul>ly on ! ,cont95t1 & ) v>y+ degrees ( success4 ,x is ?\ght t ! effici5t elem5t 9 its composition is a r less impure hydroc>buret ?an t kn[n 9 ,p>is "u ! "n huile de cade4 ,on acc\nt ( its ready miscibility ) wat]1 x possesses great advantage ov] ! common t> o9tm5t4 ,,m$icat$ ,,soaps4 ,six ye>s ago ,i began mak+ a s]ies ( m$icat$ soaps1 su* z ,,sulphur ,,soap1 ,,iod9e ,,soap1 ,,brom9e ,,soap1 ,,creosote ,,soap1 ,,m]curial ,,soap1 ,,croton ,,oil ,,soap1 & _m o!rs4 ,^! soaps are prep>$ by add+ ! m$icant to curd soap1 & !n mak+ 9 a tablet =m = use4 ,= sulphur soap1 ! curd soap may be melt$1 & fl[]s ( sulphur add$ :ile ! soap is 9 a s(t condition4 ,= antimony soap & m]curial soap1 ! l[ oxides ( ! metals employ$ may also be mix$ 9 ! curd soap 9 a melt$ /ate4 ,iod9e1 brom9e1 creosote soap1 & o!rs conta9+ v volatile sub/ances1 are be/ prep>$ cold by %av+ up ! curd soap 9 a mort>1 & mix+ ! m$icant ) x by long beat+4 ,9 c]ta9 cutane\s diseases ! au?or has reason to believe t !y w prove ( inf9ite s]vice z auxili>ies to ! g5]al treatm5t4 ,x is obvi\s t ! absorb5t vessels ( ! sk9 are v active dur+ ! lavoratory process2 su* soap mu/ n1 !re=e1 be us$ except by ! special advice ( a m$ical man4 ,probably ^! soaps w be f\nd useful = int]nal application4 ,! prec$5t ( ! use ( ,ca/ile soap 7conta9+ oxide ( iron7 r5d]s x likely t :5 prejudice has pass$ away1 su* soaps w f9d a place 9 ! ph>macopoeias4 ,! discov]y ( ! solubility1 "u c]ta9 conditions1 ( ! active alkaloids1 qu99e1 morphia1 c41 9 oil1 by ,mr4 ,w4 ,ba/ick1 greatly favors ! supposition ( analog\s comp\nds 9 soap4 ,,section ,,ix4 ,,emuls9es4 ,f soaps prop] we n[ pass to ^? comp\nds us$ z sub/itutes = soap1 :i* are class$ toge!r "u "o g5]al title z above1 = ! reason t all cosmetiques h]e9 embrac$ h ! prop]ty ( =m+ emulsions ) wat]4 ,*emically consid]$1 !y are an exce$+ly int]e/+ class ( comp\nds1 & are well wor?y ( /udy4 ,be+ prone to decomposition1 z might be expect$ f _! composition1 !y %\ld be made only 9 small portions1 or1 at lea/1 only 9 quantities to meet a ready sale4 ,:ile 9 /ock !y %\ld be kept z cool z possible1 & free f a damp atmosph]e4 ,,am&9e4 ,f9e almond oil1 #g lbs4 ,simple syrup1,e #d oz4 ,:ite s(t soap1 or saponace\s cream1 i4e4 ,creme d',am&e1 #a oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a oz4 b]gamot1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a_/b oz4 ,rub ! syrup ) ! s(t soap until ! mixture is homog5e\s1 !n rub 9 ! oil by degrees2 ! p]fume hav+ be5 previ\sly mix$ ) ! oil4 ,illu/ration3 ,oil-,runn] 9 ,emuls9e ,process4 ,9 ! manufacture ( am&9e 7& oliv9e7 ! difficulty is to get 9 ! quantity ( oil indicat$1 )\t :i* x does n assume t transp>5t jelly appe>ance :i* good am&9e %\ld h4 ,to atta9 ?is end1 ! oil is put into a runn]1 t is1 a t9 or glass vessel1 at ! bottom ( :i* is a small faucet & spigot1 or tap4 ,! oil be+ put into ?is vessel is all[$ to run sl[ly into ! mort> 9 :i* ! am&9e is be+ made1 j z fa/ z ! mak] f9ds t he c incorporate x ) ! pa/e ( soap & syrup2 & s long z ?is takes place1 ! result w always h a jelly texture to ! h&4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! oil be put into ! mort> quick] ?an ! workman c bl5d x ) ! pa/e1 !n ! pa/e becomes oil$1 & may be consid]$ z done =1 unless1 inde$1 ! :ole process be gone ?r\gh aga91 />t+ (f ) fre% syrup & soap1 us+ up ! greasy mass z if x 7 pure oil4 ,?is liability to g (f1 increases z ! am&9e ne>s ! f9i%2 h5ce extra caution & pl5ty ( elb[ grease mu/ be us$ dur+ ! addition ( ! la/ two p\nds ( oil4 ,if ! oil be n p]fectly fre%1 or if ! temp]ature ( ! atmosph]e be above ! av]age ( summ] heat1 x w be almo/ impossible to get ! :ole ( ! oil giv5 9 ! =mula into comb9ation2 :5 ! mass becomes bright & ( a cry/all9e lu/re1 x w be well to /op ! fur!r addition ( oil to x4 ,?is & simil> comp\nds %\ld be pott$ z quickly z made1 & ! lids ( ! pots b&$ ei!r ) /rips ( t9-foil or pap]1 to exclude air4 ,:5 ! am&9e is fill$ into ! j>s1 ! top or face ( x is m>k$ or ornam5t$ ) a tool made to ! size ( half ! diamet] ( ! int]ior ( ! j>1 9 a simil> way to a saw2 a piece ( lead or tortoise-%ell1 be+ s]rat$ ) an angul> file1 or piece ( an old saw1 w d v well2 place ! m>k] on ! am&9e1 & turn ! j> g5tly r\nd4 ,,oliv9e4 ,gum acacia1 9 p[d]1 #b oz4 ,honey1 #f oz4 ,yolk ( eggs1 9 numb]1 #e4 ,:ite s(t soap1 #c oz4 ,olive oil1 #b lbs4 ,gre5 oil1 #a oz4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 lemon1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a_/b oz4 ?yme & cassia1 ea*1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,rub ! gum & honey toge!r until incorporat$1 !n add ! soap & egg4 ,hav+ mix$ ! gre5 oil & p]fumes ) ! olive oil1 ! mixture is to be plac$ 9 ! runn]1 & ! process foll[$ exactly z indicat$ = am&9e4 ,,honey ,,& ,,almond ,,pa/e4 7,pate d',am&e au ,miel47 ,bitt] almonds1 blan*$ & gr\nd1 #a_/b lb4 ,honey1 #a lb4 ,yolk ( eggs1 9 numb]1 #h4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a_/d oz4 cloves1 #a_/d oz4 ,rub ! eggs & honey toge!r fir/1 !n gradually add ! oil1 & f9ally ! gr\nd almonds & ! p]fume4 ,,almond ,,pa/e4 ,bitt] almonds1 blan*$ & gr\nd1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a-a_/b p9t4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #af oz4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #c oz4 ,place ! gr\nd almonds & "o p9t ( ! rose-wat] into a /ewpan2 ) a sl[ & /eady heat1 cook ! almonds until _! granul> texture assumes a pa/y =m1 con/antly /irr+ ! mixture dur+ ! :ole "t1 o!rwise ! almonds quickly burn to ! bottom ( ! pan1 & imp>t to ! :ole an empyreumatic odor4 ,! l>ge quantity ( otto ( almonds :i* is volatiliz$ dur+ ! process1 r5d]s x ess5tial t ! op]ator %\ld avoid ! vapor z mu* z possible4 ,:5 ! almonds are ne>ly cook$1 ! rema9+ wat] is to be add$2 f9ally ! pa/e is put into a mort>1 & well rubb$ ) ! pe/le2 !n ! p]fume & _s are add$4 ,be=e pott+ ?is pa/e1 z well z honey pa/e1 x %\ld be pass$ ?r\gh a m$ium f9e sieve1 to insure uni=mity ( texture1 especially z almonds d n gr9d k9dly4 ,o!r pa/es1 su* z ,pate de ,pi/a*e1 ,pate de ,cocos1 ,pate de ,guimauve1 are prep>$ 9 s simil> a mann] to ! above t x is unnecess>y to say m ab\t !m "h1 ?an t !y mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) prep>ations be>+ a simil> "n made by confection]s4 ,,almond ,,meal4 ,gr\nd almonds1 #a lb4 ,:eat fl\r1 #a lb4 ,orris-root p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( lemon1 #a_/b oz4 almonds1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,,pi/a*io ,,nut ,,meal1 ,,or ,,any ,,o!r ,,nut4 ,pi/a*io nuts 7decorticat$ z almonds are blea*$71 #a lb4 ,orris p[d]1 #a lb4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a dra*m4 lemons1 #a_/b oz4 ,o!r meals1 su* z p]fum$ oatmeal1 p]fum$ bran1 c41 are occasionally 9 dem&1 & are prep>$ z ! =ego+4 ,all ! prec$+ prep>ations are us$ 9 ! lavatory process z sub/itutes = soap1 & to r5d] ! sk9 pliant1 s(t1 & fair6 ,,emuls9 ,,au ,,jasm94 ,saponace\s cream1 #a oz4 ,simple syrup1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,be/ jasm9e oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,,emuls9 ,a ,,le ,,violette4 ,saponace\s cream1 #a oz4 ,syrup ( violets1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,be/ violet oil1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,emuls9 ( o!r odors c be prep>$ ) tub]euse1 rose1 or cassie 7acacia7 oil 7prep>$ by enfleurage or mac]ation74 ,= ! me?ods ( mix+ ! +r$i5ts1 see ,am&9e1 p4 #aie4 ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( ! ,fr5* oils1 ^! prep>ations are exp5sive1 b !y are und\bt$ly ! mo/ exquisite ( cosmetiques4 ,,section ,x4 ,,milk1 ,,or ,,emulsions4 ,9 ! p]fum]y trade1 few articles meet ) a m ready sale ?an t class ( cosmetiques d5om9at$ milks4 ,x has long be5 kn[n t ne>ly all ! se$s ( plants :i* are call$ nuts1 :5 decorticat$ & fre$ f _! pellicle1 on be+ r$uc$ to a pulpy mass1 & rubb$ ) ab\t f\r times _! weight ( wat]1 produce fluid :i* has e analogy to c['s milk4 ,! milky appe>ance ( ^! emulsions is due to ! m9ute me*anical division ( ! oil d]iv$ f ! nuts be+ diffus$ ?r\gh ! wat]4 ,all ^! emulsions possess great *emical int]e/ on acc\nt ( _! rapid decomposition1 & ! products emanat+ f _! f]m5tation1 especially t made ) sweet almonds & pi/a*ios 7,pi/a*ia v]a74 ,9 ! manufacture ( v>i\s milks = sale1 c>eful manipulation is ( ! utmo/ importance1 o!rwise ^! emulsions w n keep2 h5ce m loss ?an pr(it4 ,trans=mation takes place 9 ! elem5ts ( vegetable case9e 7exi/+ 9 se$s7 f ! v mom5t t sweet almonds are conv]t$ into almond-milk4--,,liebig4 ,?is acc\nts = ! difficulty _m p]sons f9d 9 mak+ milk ( almonds t does n spontane\sly divide1 a day or s aft] its manufacture4 ,,milk ,,( ,,roses4 ,val5cia almonds 7blan*$71 #a_/b lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a qu>t4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #a_/d p9t4 ,otto ( rose1 #a dra*m4 ,:ite wax1 sp]maceti1 oil soap1 ea*1 #a_/b oz4 ,manipulation4--,%ave up ! soap1 & place x 9 a vessel t c be heat$ by /eam or wat]-ba?2 add to x two or ?ree ounces ( rose-wat]4 ,:5 ! soap is p]fectly melt$1 add ! wax & sp]maceti1 )\t divid+ !m m ?an is necess>y to obta9 ! correct weight2 ?is insures _! melt+ sl[ly1 & all[s "t = _! p>tial saponification by ! fluid soap2 occasional /irr+ is necess>y4 ,:ile ?is is go+ on1 blan* ! almonds1 c>efully exclud+ e p>ticle t is 9 ! lea/ way damag$4 ,n[ proce$ to beat up ! almonds 9 a scrupul\sly clean mort>1 all[+ ! rose-wat] to trickle into ! mass by degrees2 ! runn]1 z us$ = ! oil 9 ! manufacture ( oliv9e1 is v conv5i5t = ?is purpose4 ,:5 ! emulsion ( almonds is ?us f9i%$1 x is to be /ra9$1 )\t pressure1 ?r\gh clean wa%$ musl9 7new musl9 (t5 conta9s />*1 fl\r1 gum1 or dextr9e74 ,! previ\sly-=m$ saponace\s mixture is n[ to be plac$ 9 ! mort>1 & ! ready-=m$ emulsion 9 ! runn]2 ! soapy comp\nd & ! emulsion is !n c>efully bl5d$ toge!r4 ,z ! la/ ( ! emulsion runs into ! mort>1 ! _s1 9 :i* ! otto ( roses has be5 dissolv$1 is to take its place1 & to be gradually trickl$ into ! o!r +r$i5ts4 ,a too sudd5 addition ( ! _s frequ5tly coagulates ! milk & causes x to be curdl$2 z x is1 ! temp]ature ( ! mixture rises1 & e means mu/ be tak5 to keep x d[n2 ! con/ant agitation & cold mort> effect+ t object pretty well4 ,f9ally1 ! n[ =m$ milk ( roses is to be /ra9$4 ,! almond residue may be wa%$ ) a few ounces ( fre% rose-wat]1 9 ord] to prev5t any loss 9 bulk to ! :ole giv5 quantity4 ,! newly-=m$ milk %\ld be plac$ into a bottle hav+ a tap 9 x ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* f ! bottom4 ,aft] /&+ p]fectly quiet = tw5ty-f\r h\rs x is fit to bottle4 ,all ! above precautions be+ tak51 ! milk ( roses w keep any "t )\t precipitate or creamy sup]natation4 ,^! directions apply to all ! o!r =ms ( milk n[ giv54 ,,milk ,,( ,,almonds4 ,bitt] almonds 7blan*$71 #aj oz4 ,di/ill$ 7or rose7 wat]1 #a qu>t4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #c_/d p9t4,f ,otto ( almonds1 #a_/b dra*m4 b]gamot1 #b dra*ms4 ,wax1 sp]maceti1 ,almond oil1 curd soap1 ea*1 #a_/b oz4 ,,milk ,,( ,,eld]4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,eld]-fl[] wat]1 #a p9t4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #h oz4 ,oil ( eld] fl[]s1 prep>$ by mac]ation1 #a_/b oz4 ,wax1 sp]m1 soap1 ea*1 #a_/b oz4 ,,milk ,,( ,,d&elion4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,rose-wat]1 #a p9t4 ,express$ juice ( d&elion root1 #a oz4 ,esprit tub]euse1 #h oz4 ,gre5 oil1 wax1 ,curd soap1 ea* #a_/b oz4 ,let ! juice ( ! d&elion be p]fectly fre% press$2 z x is 9 itself an emulsion1 x may be put into ! mort> aft] ! almonds are brok5 up1 & /irr$ ) ! wat] & _s 9 ! usual mann]4 ,,milk ,,( ,,cucumb]4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,express$ juice ( cucumb]s1 #a p9t4 ,_s 7#fj o4p471 #h oz4 ,ess5ce ( cucumb]s1 #a_/d p9t4 ,gre5 oil1 wax1 ,curd soap1 ea* #a_/b oz4 ,raise ! juice ( ! cucumb]s to ! boil+ po9t = half a m9ute1 cool x z quickly z possible1 !n /ra9 ?r\gh f9e musl92 proce$ to manipulate 9 ! usual mann]4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,cucumb]s4 ,break up 9 a mort> #bh lbs4 ( good fre% cucumb]s2 ) ! pulp produc$ mix #b p9ts rectifi$ _s 7sp4 gr4 4#hcg71 & all[ ! mixture to /& = a day & night2 !n di/il ! :ole1 & draw (f a p9t & a half4 ,! di/illation may be cont9u$ s z to obta9 ano!r p9t fit = ult]ior purposes4 ,,creme ,,de ,,pi/a*e4 7,milk ( ,pi/a*io ,nuts47 ,pi/a*io nuts1 #c oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat]1 #c-a_/d p9ts4 ,esprit n]oli1 #c_/d p9t4 ,palm soap1 ,gre5 oil1 wax1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,sp]maceti1 ,,lait ,,virg9al4 ,rose-wat]1 #a qu>t4 ,t9cture b5zo91 #a_/b oz4 ,add ! wat] v sl[ly to ! t9cture2 by s do+ an opalesc5t milky fluid is produc$1 :i* w reta9 its consi/5cy = _m ye>s2 by rev]s+ ?is op]ation1 p\r+ ! t9cture into ! wat]1 a cl\dy precipitate ( ! res9\s matt] ensues1 :i* does n aga9 become readily susp5d$ 9 ! wat]4 ,,extract ,,( ,,eld] ,,fl[]s4 ,eld]-fl[] wat]1 #a qu>t4 ,t9cture b5zo91 #a oz4 ,manipulate z = virg9's milk4 ,simil> comp\nds may1 ( c\rse1 be made ) orange-fl[] & o!r wat]s4 ,,section ,,xi4 ,,cold ,,cream4 ,,gal51 ! celebrat$ physician ( ,p]gamos1 9 ,asia1 b :o di/+ui%$ himself at ,a!ns1 ,alex&ria1 & ,rome1 ab\t #agjj ye>s ago1 0 ! inv5tor ( t peculi> ungu5t1 a mixture ( grease & wat]1 :i* is n[ di/+ui%$ z cold cream 9 p]fum]y1 & z ,c]atum ,gal5i 9 ,ph>macy4 ,! mod]n =mula = cold cream is1 h[ev]1 q a diff]5t ?+ to t giv5 9 ! works ( ,gal5 9 po9t ( odor & quality1 al?\gh sub/antially ! same--grease & wat]4 ,9 p]fum]y !re are sev]al k9ds ( cold cream1 di/+ui%$ by _! odor1 su* z t ( camphor1 almond1 violet1 roses1 c4 ,cold cream1 z made by ,engli% p]fum]s1 be>s a high reputation1 n only at home1 b ?r\gh\t ,europe2 ! quantity export$1 & :i* c only be reckon$ by j>s 9 hundr$s ( doz5s1 & ! repeat$ ann\ncem5ts t may be se5 9 ! %ops on ! ,cont95t1 9 ,g]many1 ,france1 & ,italy1 ( ,cold ,creme ,anglaise1 is good pro( ( ! e/imation 9 :i* x is held4 ,,rose ,,cold ,,cream4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a lb4 ,:ite wax1 sp]maceti1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,manipulation4--,into a well-glaz$ ?ick porcela9 vessel1 :i* %\ld be deep 9 pref]5ce to %all[1 & capable ( hold+ twice ! quantity ( cream t is to be made1 place ! wax & sp]m2 n[ put ! j> into a boil+ ba? ( wat]2 :5 ^! mat]ials are melt$1 add ! oil1 & aga9 subject ! :ole to heat until ! flocks ( wax & sp]m are liquefi$2 n[ remove ! j> & cont5ts1 & set x "u a runn] conta9+ ! rose-wat]3 ! runn] may be a t9 c1 ) a small tap at ! bottom1 ! same z us$ = ! manufacture ( milk ( roses4 ,a /irr] mu/ be provid$1 made ( lancewood1 flat1 & p]=at$ ) holes ! size ( a sixp5ce1 resembl+ 9 =m a l>ge palette-knife4 ,z soon z ! rose-wat] is set runn+1 ! cream mu/ be kept agitat$ until ! :ole ( ! wat] has pass$ into x2 n[ & !n ! fl[ ( wat] mu/ be /opp$1 & ! cream :i* sets at ! sides ( ! j> scrap$ d[n1 & incorporat$ ) t :i* rema9s fluid4 ,:5 ! :ole ( ! wat] has be5 incorporat$1 ! cream w be cool en\gh to p\r into ! j>s = sale2 at t "t ! otto ( rose is to be add$4 ,! reason = ! p]fume be+ put 9 at ! la/ mom5t is obvi\s--! heat & subsequ5t agitation w\ld cause unnecess>y loss by evaporation4 ,cold cream made 9 ?is way sets q firmly 9 ! j>s into :i* x is p\r$1 & reta9s a face resembl+ pure wax1 al?\gh "o-half is wat] reta9$ 9 ! int]/ices ( ! cream4 ,:5 ! pots are well glaz$1 x w keep good = "o or two ye>s4 ,if desir$ = exportation to ! ,ea/ or ,we/ ,indies1 x %\ld always be s5t out 9 /opp]$ bottles4 ,,cold ,,cream ,,( ,,almonds ,is prep>$ precisely z ! above2 b 9 place ( otto ( roses otto ( almonds is us$4 ,,violet ,,cold ,,cream4 ,huile violette1 #a lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a lb4 ,wax & sp]maceti1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #e drops4 ,,violet ,,cold ,,cream4 ,,imitation4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,huile cassie1 #a_/d lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a lb4 ,sp]m & wax1 #a oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,?is is an elegant & economical prep>ation1 g5]ally admir$4 ,,tub]euse1 ,,jasm9e1 ,,& ,,fleur ,d',,orange ,,cold ,,creams4 ,are prep>$ 9 simil> mann] to violet 7fir/ =m72 !y are all v exquisite prep>ations1 b z !y co/ m ?an rose cold cream1 p]fum]s are n mu* incl9$ to introduce !m 9 lieu ( ! latt]4 ,,camphor ,,cold ,,cream4 7,o!rwise ,camphor ,ice47 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,rose-wat]1 #a lb4 ,wax & ,sp]maceti1 #a oz4 ,camphor1 #b oz4 ,otto ( rosem>y1 #a dra*m4 ,melt ! camphor1 wax1 & sp]m1 9 ! oil1 !n manipulate z = cold cream ( roses4 ,,cucumb] ,,cold ,,cream4 7,creme de ,concombre47 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,gre5 oil1 #a oz4 ,juice ( cucumb]1 #a lb4 ,wax & sp]m1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,! cucumb] juice is readily obta9$ by subject+ ! fruit to pressure 9 ! ord9>y t9cture press4 ,x mu/ be rais$ to a temp]ature high en\gh to coagulate ! small portion ( album5 :i* x conta9s1 & !n /ra9$ ?r\gh f9e l951 z ! heat is detrim5tal to ! odor on acc\nt ( ! great volatility ( ! otto ( cucumb]4 ,! foll[+ me?od may be adopt$ ) advantage3--,slice ! fruit v f9e ) a cucumb]-cutt]1 & place !m 9 ! oil2 aft] rema9+ toge!r = tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 repeat ! op]ation1 us+ fre% fruit 9 ! /ra9$ oil2 no w>m? is necess>y1 or at mo/1 n m ?an a summ] heat2 !n proce$ to make ! cold cream 9 ! usual mann]1 us+ ! almond oil ?us odoriz$1 ! rose-wat]1 & o!r +r$i5ts 9 ! regul> way1 p]fum+1 if necess>y1 ) a little n]oli4 ,ano!r & common] prep>ation ( cucumb] is f\nd among ! ,p>isians1 :i* is l>d simply sc5t$ ) ! juice f ! fruit1 ?us3--,! l>d is liquefi$ by heat 9 a vessel subject to a wat]-ba?2 ! cucumb] juice is !n /irr$ well into x2 ! vessel conta9+ ! +r$i5ts is n[ plac$ 9 a quiet situation to cool4 ,! l>d w rise to ! surface1 & :5 cold mu/ be remov$ f ! fluid juice2 ! same manipulation be+ repeat$ z (t5 z requir$1 accord+ to ! /r5g? ( odor ( ! fruit desir$ 9 ! grease4 ,,piv]s' ,,pomade ,,( ,,cucumb]4 ,b5zo9at$ l>d1 #f lbs4 ,sp]maceti1 #b lbs4 ,ess5ce ( cucumb]s1 #a lb4 ,melt ! /e>9e ) ! l>d1 !n keep x con/antly 9 motion :ile x cools1 n[ beat ! grease 9 a mort>1 gradually add+ ! ess5ce ( cucumb]s2 cont9ue to beat ! :ole until ! _s is evaporat$1 & ! pomade is beautifully :ite4 ,melons & o!r simil> fruit w sc5t grease treat$ 9 ! same way4 7,see ,ess5ce ( ,cucumb]s1 p4 #bjd47 ,,pomade ,,div9e4 ,among ! ?\s& & "o quack no/rums1 pomade div9e1 l ,james's p[d]1 has obta9$ a reputation f> above ! mo/ sangu9e expectations ( its concoctors4 ,?is article /rictly belongs to ! druggi/1 be+ sold z a rem$ial ag5t2 nev]!less1 :at is sold is almo/ always v5d$ by ! p]fum]4 ,x is prep>$ ?us3-- ,sp]maceti1 #a_/d lb4 ,l>d1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,gum b5zo91 #a_/d lb4 ,vanilla beans1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,dige/ ! :ole 9 a vessel heat$ by a wat]-ba? at a temp]ature n exce$+ #ij deg4 ,c4 ,aft] five or six h\rs x is fit to /ra91 & may be p\r$ into ! bottles = sale4 7,mu/ be /amp$ if its m$ic9al qualities are /at$47 ,,almond ,,balls4 ,purifi$ suet1 #a lb4 ,:ite wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a dra*m4 cloves1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,,camphor ,,balls4 ,purifi$ suet1 #a lb4 ,:ite wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,camphor1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto ( ,fr5* lav5d] or rosem>y1 #a_/b oz4 ,bo? ! above articles are sold ei!r :ite or color$ ) alkanet root4 ,:5 ?or\ghly melt$1 ! mat]ial is ca/ 9 a m\ld2 ounce gallipots ) smoo? bottoms answ] v well = ca/+ 94 ,"s v5d]s use only l>ge pill-boxes4 ,,camphor ,,pa/e4 ,sweet almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,purifi$ l>d1 #a_/d lb4 ,wax & sp]maceti1 ,camphor1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,,glyc]9e ,,balsam4 ,:ite wax1 ,sp]maceti1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,glyc]9e1 #b oz4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,( ! rem$ial action ( any ( ! above prep>ations we _c "h discuss2 9 giv+ ! =mulae1 x is en\gh = u t !y are sold by p]fum]s4 ,,rose ,,lip ,,salve4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,sp]maceti & wax1 ea*1 #b oz4 ,alkanet root1 #b oz4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,place ! wax1 sp]m1 & oil on to ! alkanet root 9 a vessel heat$ by /eam or wat]-ba?2 aft] ! mat]ials are melt$1 !y mu/ dige/ on ! alkanet to extract its color = at lea/ f\r or five h\rs2 f9ally1 /ra9 ?r\gh f9e musl91 !n add ! p]fume j be=e x cools4 ,,:ite ,,lip ,,salve4 ,almond oil1 #a_/d lb4 ,wax & ,sp]maceti1 ea*1 #a oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #a_/b dra*m4 g]anium1 #a_/d ,aft] lip salve is p\r$ into ! pots & got cold1 a r$-hot iron mu/ be held ov] !m = a m9ute or s1 9 ord] t ! heat radiat$ f ! irons may melt ! surface ( ! salve & give x an ev5 face4 ,,common ,,lip ,,salve ,is made simply ( equal p>ts ( l>d & suet1 color$ ) alkanet root1 & p]fum$ ) an ounce ( b]gamot to e p\nd ( salve4 ,,section ,,xii4 ,,pomades ,,& ,,oils4 ,! "n ( pomatum is d]iv$ f pomum1 an apple1 because x 0 orig9ally made by mac]at+ ov]-ripe apples 9 grease4 ,if an apple be /uck all ov] ) spice1 su* z cloves1 !n expos$ to ! air = a few days1 & aft]w>ds mac]at$ 9 purifi$ melt$ l>d1 or any o!r fatty matt]1 ! grease w become p]fum$4 ,repeat+ ! op]ation ) ! same grease sev]al times1 produces real pomatum4 ,accord+ to a recipe publi%$ m ?an a c5tury ago ! =m giv5 is3--,kid's grease1 an orange slic$1 pipp9s1 a glass ( rose-wat]1 & half a glass ( :ite w9e1 boil$ & /ra9$1 & at la/ spr9kl$ ) oil ( sweet almonds4 ,! au?or1 ,dr4 ,qu9cy1 obs]ves1 t ! apple is ( no significance at all 9 ! recipe1 &1 l _m au?ors ( ! pres5t day1 concludes t ! read] is z well acqua9t$ ) ! subject z ! writ]1 & !re=e consid]s t ! weights or bulk ( ! mat]ials 9 8 recipe are1 likewise1 ( no significance4 ,accord+ to anci5t writ]s1 ungu5t1 pomatum1 o9tm5t1 are synonym\s titles = m$icat$ & p]fum$ greases4 ,among biblical int]pret]s1 ! significant ^w is mo/ly r5d]$ o9tm5t2 ?us we h 9 ,prov4 #bg3i1 ,o9tm5t & p]fume rejoice ! he>t2 9 ,eccles4 #i3h1 ,let ?y head lack no o9tm5t4 ,p]fum]s1 act+ ^u _! own or ,dr4 ,qu9cy's advice1 pay no reg>d to ! apples 9 ! prep>ation ( pomatum1 b make x by p]fum+ l>d or suet1 or a mixture ( wax1 sp]maceti1 & oil1 or "s ( !m or all bl5d$1 to produce a p>ticul> result1 accord+ to ! "n t x be>s4 ,! mo/ important ?+ to consid] 9 ! manufacture ( pomatum1 c41 is to />t (f ) a p]fectly inodor\s grease1 :atev] t grease may be4 ,inodor\s l>d is obta9$ ?us3--,take1 say #bh lbs4 ( p]fectly fre% l>d1 place x 9 a well-glaz$ vessel1 t c be submitt$ to ! heat ( a boil+ salt-wat] ba?1 or by /eam "u a slight pressure2 :5 ! l>d is melt$1 add to x "o ounce ( p[d]$ alum & two ounces ( table salt2 ma9ta9 ! heat = "s "t1 9 fact till a scum rises1 consi/+ 9 a great measure ( coagulat$ prote9e comp\nds1 membrane1 c41 :i* mu/ be skimm$ (f2 :5 ! liquid grease appe>s ( a uni=m nature x is all[$ to gr[ cold4 ,! l>d is n[ to be wa%$4 ,?is is done 9 small portions at a "t1 & is a "w ( mu* labor1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is amply repaid by ! result4 ,ab\t a p\nd ( ! grease is n[ plac$ on a slate slab a little on ! incl9e1 a supply ( good wat] be+ set to trickle ov] x2 ! surface ( ! grease is !n con/antly r5ew$ by an op]ative work+ a mull] ov] x1 precisely z a color-mak] gr9ds pa9ts 9 oil4 ,9 ?is way ! wat] removes any traces ( alum or salt1 also ! la/ traces ( nitrog5\s matt]4 ,f9ally1 ! grease1 :5 ! :ole is wa%$ 9 ?is way1 is remelt$1 ! heat be+ ma9ta9$ en\gh to drive (f any adh]+ wat]4 ,:5 cold x is f9i%$4 ,al?\gh purify+ grease 9 ?is way is tr\blesome1 & takes a good deal ( "t1 yet unless done s1 x is totally unfit = p]fum+ ) fl[]s1 because a bad grease w co/ m 9 p]fume to cov] its mal odeur ?an ! exp5se ( ?us deodoriz+ x4 ,moreov]1 if l>d be us$ t smells ( ! pig1 x is next to impossible to imp>t to x any delicate odor2 & if /rongly p]fum$ by ! addition ( ottos1 ! unpurifi$ grease w n keep1 b quickly becomes rancid4 ,"u any circum/ances1 !re=e1 grease t is n p]fectly inodor\s is a v exp5sive mat]ial to use 9 ! manufacture ( pomades4 ,9 ! ,s\? & fl[]-gr[+ c\ntries1 :]e ! f9e pomades are made by ,,enfleurage1 or by ,,mac]ation,g 7see pp4 #cg1 #ch71 ! purification ( grease = ! purpose ( ^! manufactures is ( suffici5t importance to become a sep>ate trade4 ,! purification ( beef & mutton suet is 9 a great measure ! same z t = l>d3 ! great] solidity ( suets requires a me*anical arrangem5t = wa%+ !m ( a m p[]ful nature ?an c be appli$ by h& labor4 ,mr4 ,ew51 :o is und\bt$ly ! be/ fat-purifi] 9 ,london1 employs a /one roll] rotat+ ^u a circul> slab2 motion is giv5 to ! roll] by an axle :i* passes ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! slab1 or r /one b$1 ^u :i* ! suet is plac$2 be+ high] 9 ! c5tre ?an at ! sides1 ! /ream ( wat] fl[s away aft] x has once pass$ ov] ! suet2 9 o!r respects ! treatm5t is ! same z = l>d4 ,^! greases us$ by p]fum]s h a g5]al title ( body1 tantam\nt to ! ,fr5* nom5clature ( corps2 ?us we h pomades ( h>d corps 7suet71 pomades ( s(t corps 7l>d74 ,= mak+ extraits1 su* z extrait de violette1 jasm91 ! pomades ( h>d corps are to be pref]r$2 b :5 sc5t$ pomade is to be us$ 9 fabrication ( ungu5ts = ! hair1 pomades ( s(t corps are ! mo/ useful4 ,! me?od ( p]fum+ grease by ! direct process ) fl[]s hav+ already be5 describ$ "u ! respective names ( ! fl[]s t imp>t ! odor !reto1 x rema9s n[ only to describe ^? comp\nds t are made f !m1 toge!r ) su* incid5tal matt] connect$ ) ?is bran* ( p]fum]y z has n be5 previ\sly m5tion$4 ,,acacia ,,pomade1 commonly call$ ,,cassie ,,pomatum1 is made ) a purifi$ body-grease1 by mac]ation ) ! little r\nd yell[ buds ( ! ,acacia ,f>nesiana4 ,black currant leaves1 & :i* ! ,fr5* t]m cassie1 h an odor v mu* resembl+ cassie 7acacia71 & are us$ ext5sively = adult]at+ ! true acacia pomades & oils4 ,! ne> simil>ity ( "n1 _! analog\s odor 7al?\gh ! plants h no botanical connection71 toge!r ) ! ^w cassia1 a famili> p]fume 9 ,engl&1 has produc$ g5]ally confus$ ideas 9 ?is c\ntry z to ! true orig9 ( ! odor n[ "u discussion4 ,cassie1 casse1 cassia1 x w be und]/ood n[1 are ?ree di/9ct sub/ances2 & 9 ord] to r5d] ! matt] m p]spicu\s 9 future1 ! mat]ials w always be d5om9at$ ,,acacia1 if prep>$ f ! ,acacia ,f>nesiana2 ,,casse1 :5 f black currant2 & ,,cassia1 if d]iv$ f ! b>k ( ! ,c9namomum ,cassia4 ,,b5zo9 ,,pomade ,,& ,,oil4 ,b5zoic acid is p]fectly soluble 9 hot grease4 ,half an ounce ( b5zoic acid be+ dissolv$ 9 half a p9t ( hot olive or almond oil1 deposits on cool+ beautiful acicul> cry/als1 simil> to ! cry/als t effloresce f vanilla beans2 a portion ( ! acid1 h[ev]1 rema9s dissolv$ 9 ! oil at ! ord9>y temp]ature1 & imp>ts to x ! peculi> aroma ( b5zo92 ^u ?is idea is bas$ ! pr9ciple ( p]fum+ grease ) gum b5zo9 by ! direct process1 t is1 by mac]at+ p[d]$ gum b5zo9 9 melt$ suet or l>d = a few h\rs1 at a temp]ature ( ab\t #hj deg4 ,c4 to #ij deg4 ,c4 ,ne>ly all ! gum-res9s give up _! odorif]\s pr9ciple to fatty bodies1 :5 treat$ 9 ! same way2 ?is fact becom+ g5]ally kn[n1 w probably give rise to ! prep>ation ( "s new rem$ial o9tm5ts1 su* z ,ungu5tum myrrhae1 ,ungu5tum assafoetida1 & ! l4 ,,tonqu9 ,,pomade1 & ,,tonqu9 ,,oil1 are prep>$ by mac]at+ ! gr\nd ,tonqu9 beans 9 ei!r melt$ fat or w>m oil1 f twelve to tw5ty-eight h\rs1 9 ! proportion ( ,tonqu9 beans1 #a_/b lb4 ,fat or oil1 #d lbs4 ,/ra9 ?r\gh f9e musl92 :5 cold1 ! grease w h a f9e odor ( ! beans4 ,,vanilla ,,oil ,,& ,,pomade4 ,vanilla pods1 #a_/d lb4 ,fat or oil1 #d lbs4 ,mac]ate at a temp]ature ( #be deg4 ,c4 = ?ree or f\r days2 f9ally /ra94 ,^! pomatums & oils1 toge!r ) ! ,fr5* pomades & huiles already describ$1 con/itute ! f\ndation ( ! prep>ations ( all ! be/ hair greases sold by p]fum]s4 ,inf]ior sc5t$ pomatums & oils are prep>$ by p]fum+ l>d1 suet1 wax1 oil1 c41 ) v>i\s ottos2 ! results1 h[ev]1 9 _m in/ances m exp5sive ?an ! =ego+1 are actually inf]ior 9 _! odor or b\quet--= grease1 h[ev] slightly p]fum$ by mac]ation or enfleurage ) fl[]s1 is f> m agreeable to ! olfactory n]ve ?an :5 sc5t$ by ottos4 ,! und]m5tion$ greases h obta9$ great popul>ity1 ma9ly because _! p]fume is la/+ & fl[]y4 ,,pomade ,,call$ ,,be>',s ,,grease4 ,! mo/ popul> & orig9al be>s' grease is made ?us3-- ,huile de rose1 fleur d'orange1 acacia1 ( ea*1 #a_/b lb4 tub]euse & jasm91 ,almond oil1 #aj lbs4 ,l>d1 #ab lbs4 ,acacia pomade1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #d oz4 cloves1 #b oz4 ,melt ! solid greases & oils toge!r by a wat]-ba?1 !n add ! ottos4 ,be>s' grease ?us prep>$ is j h>d en\gh to set 9 ! pots at a summ] heat4 ,9 v w>m wea!r1 or if requir$ = exportation to ! ,ea/ or ,we/ ,indies1 x is necess>y to use 9 "p ,fr5* pomatums in/ead ( oils1 or m l>d & less almond oil4 ,,circassian ,,cream4 ,purifi$ l>d1 #a lb4 ,b5zo9 suet1 #a lb4 ,fr5* rose pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 color$ ) alkanet1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,,balsam ,,( ,,fl[]s4 ,fr5* rose pomatum1 #ab oz4 violet pomatum1 #ab oz4 ,almond oil1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a_/d oz4 ,,cry/alliz$ ,,oil4 7,fir/ quality74 ,huile de rose1 #a lb4 tub]euse1 #a lb4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/b lb4 ,sp]maceti1 #h oz4 ,,cry/alliz$ ,,oil4 7,second quality47 ,almond1 #b-a_/b lbs4 ,sp]maceti1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( lemon1 #c oz4 ,melt ! sp]maceti 9 a vessel heat$ by a wat]-ba?1 !n add ! oils2 cont9ue ! heat until all flocks disappe>2 let ! j>s into :i* x is p\r$ be w>m2 cool z sl[ly z possible1 to insure good cry/als2 if cool$ rapidly1 ! mass congeals )\t ! appe>ance ( cry/als4 ,?is prep>ation has a v nice appe>ance1 & s f> sells well2 b its cont9u$ use = ano9t+ ! hair r5d]s ! head scurfy2 inde$1 ! cry/als ( sp]m may be comb$ out ( ! hair 9 flakes aft] x has be5 us$ a week or two4 ,,ca/or ,,oil ,,pomatum4 ,tub]euse pomatum1 #a lb4 ,ca/or oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 ,,balsam ,,( ,,n]oli4 ,fr5* rose pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 jasm9e pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a dra*m4 ,,m>r[ ,,cream4 ,purifi$ l>d1 #a lb4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,palm oil1 #a oz4 ,otto ( cloves1 #a_/b dra*m4 b]gamot1 #a_/b oz4 lemon1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,,m>r[ ,,pomatum4 ,purifi$ l>d1 #d lbs4 suet1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( lemon1 #a oz4 b]gamot1 #a_/b oz4 cloves1 #c dra*ms4 ,melt ! greases1 !n beat !m up ) a :isk or flat wood5 spatula = half an h\r or m2 z ! grease cools1 m9ute vesicles ( air are inclos$ by ! pomatum1 :i* n only increase ! bulk ( ! mixtures1 b imp>t a peculi> me*anical aggregation1 r5d]+ ! pomatum light & spongy2 9 ?is /ate x is obvi\s t x fills out m pr(itably ?an o!rwise4 ,,common ,,violet ,,pomatum4 ,purifi$ l>d1 #a lb4 ,wa%$ acacia pomatum1 #f oz4 rose pomatum1 #d oz4 ,manipulate z = m>r[ pomatum4 ,9 all ! *eap prep>ations = ! hair1 ! manufactur+ p]fum]s us$ ! wa%$ ,fr5* pomatums & ! wa%$ ,fr5* oils = mak+ _! greases4 ,wa%$ pomatums & wa%$ oils are ^? greases t orig9ally h be5 ! be/ pomatums & huiles prep>$ by enfleurage & by mac]ation ) ! fl[]s2 :i* pomades & huiles h be5 subject to dige/ion 9 alcohol = ! manufacture ( ess5ces = ! h&k]*ief4 ,aft] ! _s has be5 on ! pomatums1 c41 x is p\r$ (f2 ! residue is !n call$ wa%$ pomatum1 & /ill reta9 an odor /rong en\gh = ! manufacture ( mo/ hair greases4 ,= pomatums ( o!r odors x is only necess>y to sub/itute rose1 jasm9e1 tub]euse1 & o!rs1 9 place ( ! acacia pomatum 9 ! above =mulae4 ,,pomade ,,d\ble1 ,,millefleurs4 ,rose1 jasm9e1 fleur d'orange1 violet1 tub]euse1 c41 are all made 9 w9t]1 ) two-?irds be/ ,fr5* pomatum1 "o-?ird be/ ,fr5* oils2 9 summ]1 equal p>ts4 ,,pomade ,a ,,la ,,heliotrope4 ,fr5* rose pomade1 #a lb4 ,vanilla oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,huile de jasm9e1 #d oz4 tub]euse1 #b oz4 fleur d'orange1 #b oz4 ,otto ( almonds1 #f drops4 cloves1 #c drops4 ,,huile ,,antique4 7,a la ,heliotrope47 ,same z ! above1 sub/itut+ rose oil = ! pomade4 ,,philocome4 ,! "n ( ?is prep>ation1 :i* is a comp\nd ( ,greek & ,lat91 signify+ a fri5d to ! hair1 0 fir/ introduc$ by ! ,p>isian p]fum]s2 & a v good "n x is1 = ,philocome is und\bt$ly "o ( ! be/ ungu5ts = ! hair t is made4 ,,philocome4 7,fir/ quality47 ,:ite wax1 #aj oz4 ,fre% rose-oil1 #a lb4 acacia oil1 #a_/b lb4 jasm9e oil1 #a_/b lb4 fleur d'orange oil1 #a lb4 tub]euse oil1 #a lb4 ,melt ! wax 9 ! huiles by a wat]-ba?1 at ! l[e/ possible temp]ature4 ,/ir ! mixture z x cools2 d n p\r out ! ,philocome until x is ne>ly cool en\gh to set2 let ! j>s1 bottles1 or pots into :i* x is fill$ = sale be slightly w>m$1 or at lea/ ( ! same temp]ature z ! ,philocome1 o!rwise ! bottles *ill ! mat]ial z x is p\r$ 91 & make x appe> ( an unev5 texture4 ,,philocome4 7,second quality47 ,:ite wax1 #e oz4 ,almond oil1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 lemon1 #a_/b oz4 lav5d]1 #b dra*ms4 cloves1 #a dra*m4 ,,fluid ,,philocome4 ,take #a ounce ( wax to #a p\nd ( oil4 ,,pommade ,,hongroise4 7,= ! ,m\/a*e47 ,lead pla/]1 #a lb4 ,acacia huile1 #b oz4 ,otto ( roses1 #b dra*ms4 cloves1 #a dra*m4 almonds1 #a dra*m4 ,color to ! t9t requir$ ) gr\nd amb] & si5na 9 oil2 mix ! +r$i5ts by fir/ melt+ ! pla/] 9 a vessel 9 boil+ wat]4 ,lead pla/] is made ) oxide ( lead boil$ ) olive oil3 x is be/ to procure x ready made f ! :olesale druggi/s4 ,,h>d ,,or ,,/ick ,,pomatums4 ,purifi$ suet1 #a lb4 ,:ite wax1 #a lb4 ,jasm9e pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,tub]euse pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( rose1 #a dra*m4 ,,ano!r ,,=m1--*eap]4 ,suet1 #a lb4 ,wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( b]gamot1 #a oz4 cassia1 #a dra*m4 ,! above recipes produce ,,:ite ,,batons4 ,,br[n & ,,black ,,batons are also 9 dem&4 ,!y are made 9 ! same way z ! above1 b color$ ) lamp-black or umb] gr\nd 9 oil4 ,su* colors are be/ pur*as$ ready gr\nd at an arti/'s colorman's4 ,,black ,,& ,,br[n ,,cosmetique4 ,su* z is sold by ,,rimmel1 is prep>$ ) a nicely-sc5t$ soap /rongly color$ ) lamp-black or ) umb]4 ,! soap is melt$1 & ! color+ add$ :ile ! soap is s(t2 :5 cold x is cut up 9 oblong pieces4 ,x is us$ z a tempor>y dye = ! m\/a*e1 appli$ ) a small bru% & wat]4 ,,section ,,xiii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,& ,,depilatory4 ,by way ( p]sonal adornm5t1 few practices are ( m anci5t orig9 ?an t ( pa9t+ ! face1 dye+ ! hair1 & black5+ ! eyebr[s & eyela%es4 ,x is a practice univ]sal among ! wom5 ( ! high] & middle classes 9 ,egypt1 & v common among ^? ( ! l[] ord]s1 to black5 ! edge ( ! eyelids1 bo? above & bel[ ! eye1 ) a black p[d]1 :i* !y t]m kohhl4 ,! kohhl is appli$ ) a small probe ( wood1 ivory1 or silv]1 tap]+ t[>ds ! end1 b blunt4 ,?is is moi/5$ sometimes ) rose-wat]1 !n dipp$ 9 ! p[d]1 & drawn along ! edges ( ! eyelids4 ,x is ?\ght to give a v s(t expression to ! eye1 ! size ( :i*1 9 appe>ance1 x enl>ges2 to :i* circum/ances probably ,j]emiah ref]s :5 he writes1 ,?\gh ?\ r5te/ ?y face 7or ?9e eyes7 ) pa9t+1 9 va9 %alt ?\ make ?yself fair4--,j]4 #d3cj4 ,see also ,,lane',s ,mod]n ,egyptians1 vol4 i1 p4 #da1 et seq4 ,a s+ul> cu/om is obs]vable bo? among ,moori% & ,arab females--t ( ornam5t+ ! face betwe5 ! eyes ) clu/]s ( blui% spots or o!r small devices1 & :i*1 be+ /a9$1 become p]man5t4 ,! *9 is also spott$ 9 a simil> mann]1 & a n>r[ blue l9e ext5ds f ! po9t ( x1 & is cont9u$ d[n ! ?roat4 ,! eyela%es1 eyebr[s1 & also ! tips & extremities ( ! eyelids1 are color$ black4 ,! soles1 & sometimes o!r p>ts ( ! feet1 z high z ! ankles1 ! palms ( ! h&s1 & ! nails1 are dy$ ) a yell[i%-r$1 ) ! leaves ( a plant call$ ,h5na 7,lawsonia in]mis71 ! leaf ( :i* some:at resembles ! myrtle1 & is dri$ = ! purposes above m5tion$4 ,! back ( ! h& is also (t5 color$ & ornam5t$ 9 ?is way ) diff]5t devices4 ,on holidays !y pa9t _! *eeks ( a r$ brick color1 a n>r[ r$ l9e be+ also drawn d[n ! temples4 ,9 ,greece1 = color+ ! la%es & sockets ( ! eye !y ?r[ inc5se or gum labdanum on "s coals ( fire1 int]cept ! smoke :i* asc5ds ) a plate1 & collect ! soot4 ,?is ,i saw appli$4 ,a girl1 sitt+ cross-legg$ z usual on a s(a1 & clos+ "o ( h] eyes1 took ! two la%es betwe5 ! =ef+] & ?umb ( h] left h&1 pull$ !m =w>d1 & !n1 ?ru/+ 9 at ! ext]nal corn] a sort ( bodk9 or probe :i* _h be5 imm]s$ 9 ! soot1 & )draw+ x1 ! p>ticles previ\sly adh]+ to ! probe rema9$ )9 ! eyela%es4--,,*&l]',s ,travels 9 ,greece4 ,dr4 ,%aw /ates t among o!r curiosities t 7 tak5 out ( ! tombs at ,sah>a relat+ to ,egyptian wom51 he saw a jo9t ( ! common re$s1 :i* conta9$ "o ( ^! bodk9s & an ounce or m ( ?is p[d]4 ,9 ,engl& ! same practice is adopt$ by _m p]sons t h gray hair2 b in/ead ( us+ ! black mat]ial 9 ! =m ( a p[d]1 x is employ$ z a crayon1 ! color be+ mix$ ) a greasy body1 su* z ! br[n & black /ick pomatums1 describ$ 9 ! previ\s article4 ,,turki% ,,hair ,,dye4 ,9 ,con/ant9ople !re are "s p]sons1 p>ticul>ly ,arm5ians1 :o devote !mselves to ! prep>ation ( cosmetics1 & obta9 l>ge sums ( money f ^? desir\s ( le>n+ ?is art4 ,among/ ^! cosmetics is a black dye = ! hair1 :i*1 accord+ to ,l&]]1 is prep>$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3-- ,f9ely pulv]iz$ galls are knead$ ) a little oil to a pa/e1 :i* is roa/$ 9 an iron pan until ! oil vapors cease to evolve1 ^u :i* ! residue is triturat$ ) wat] into a pa/e1 & heat$ aga9 to dryness4 ,at ! same "t a metallic mixture1 :i* is br\ght f ,egypt to ! comm]cial m>ts ( ! ,ea/1 & :i* is t]m$ 9 ,turki% ,ra/iko-petra1 or ,ra/ik-,yuzi1 is employ$ = ?is purpose4 ,?is metal1 :i* looks l dross1 is by "s ,arm5ians int5tionally fus$1 & consi/s ( iron & copp]4 ,x obta9s its "n f its use = ! coloration ( ! hair1 & p>ticul>ly ! eyebr[s--= ra/ik means eyebr[s1 & yuzi /one4 ,! f9e p[d] ( ?is metal is z intimately mix$ z possible ) ! moi/5$ gall-mass into a pa/e1 :i* is pres]v$ 9 a damp place1 by :i* x acquires ! black5+ prop]ty4 ,9 "s cases ?is mass is mix$ )1 ! p[d] ( odor\s sub/ances :i* are us$ 9 ! s]aglio z p]fumes1 & call$ h>si1 t is1 pleasant odor2 & ( ^! ! pr9cipal +r$i5t is amb]gris4 ,to black5 ! hair a little ( ?is dye is triturat$ 9 ! h& or betwe5 ! f+]s1 ) :i* ! hair or be>d is well rubb$4 ,aft] a few days ! hair becomes v beautifully black1 & x is a real pleasure to see su* f9e black be>ds z are met ) 9 ! ,ea/ among ! ,turks :o use ?is black dye4 ,ano!r & important advantage 9 ! use ( ?is dye consi/s !re91 t ! hair rema9s s(t1 pliant1 & = a long "t black1 :5 x has be5 once dy$ ) ?is sub/ance4 ,t ! color+ prop]ties ( ?is dye are to be *iefly ascrib$ to ! pyrogallic acid1 :i* c be f\nd by treat+ ! mass ) wat]1 may be ) c]ta9ty assum$4 ,,li?>ge ,,hair ,,dye4 ,p[d]$ li?>ge1 #b lbs4 ,quicklime1 #a_/b lb4 ,calc9$ magnesia1 #a_/b lb4 ,slake ! lime1 us+ z little wat] z possible to make x dis9tegrate1 !n mix ! :ole by a sieve4 ,,ano!r ,,way4 ,slak$ lime1 #c lbs4 ,:ite lead 9 p[d]1 #b lbs4 ,li?>ge1 #a lb4 ,mix by sift+1 bottle1 & well cork4 ,directions to be sold ) ! above4--,mix ! p[d] ) en\gh wat] to =m a ?ick creamy fluid2 ) ! aid ( a small bru%2 completely cov] ! hair to be dy$ ) ?is mixture2 to dye a light br[n1 all[ x to rema9 on ! hair f\r h\rs2 d>k br[n1 eight h\rs2 black1 twelve h\rs4 ,z ! dye does n act unless x is moi/1 x is necess>y to keep x s by we>+ an oil$ silk1 india-rubb]1 or o!r wat]pro( cap4 ,aft] ! hair is dy$1 ! refuse mu/ be ?or\ghly wa%$ f ! head ) pla9 wat]2 :5 dry1 ! hair mu/ be oil$4 ,,simple ,,silv] ,,dye4 7,o!rwise ,vegetable ,dye47 ,nitrate ( silv]1 #a oz4 ,rose-wat]1 #a p9t4 ,be=e us+ ?is dye x is necess>y to free ! hair f grease by wa%+ x ) soda or pe>la% & wat]4 ,! hair mu/ be q dry prior to apply+ ! dye1 :i* is be/ laid on ) an old too?-bru%4 ,?is dye does n /rike = sev]al h\rs4 ,x ne$s sc>cely be obs]v$ t its effects are m rapidly produc$ by expos+ ! hair to sun%9e & air4 ,,hair ,,dye1 ,,) ,,mordant4 7,br[n47 ,nitrate ( silv]1 #a oz41 blue bottles4 ,rose-wat]1 #i oz4 ,! mordant4--,sulphuret ( potassium1 #a oz41 :ite bottles4 ,wat]1 #h oz4 ,,hair ,,dye1 ,,) ,,mordant4 7,black47 ,nitrate ( silv]1 #a oz41 blue bottles4 ,wat]1 #f oz4 ,! mordant4--,sulphuret ( potassium1 #a oz41 :ite bottles4 ,wat]1 #f oz4 ,! mordant is to be appli$ to ! hair fir/2 :5 dry1 ! silv] solution4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! sulphuret is fre% made1 or at lea/1 well pres]v$ 9 clos$ bottles1 o!rwise1 in/ead ( ! mordant act+ to make to make ! hair black1 x w t5d to imp>t a yell[ hue4 ,:5 ! mordant is good1 x has a v disagreeable odor1 & al?\gh ?is is ! quicke/ & be/ dye1 its unpleasant smell has giv5 rise to ! ,,inodor\s ,,dye4 ,blue bottles4--,dissolve ! nitrate ( silv] 9 ! wat] z 9 ! above1 !n add liquid ammonia by degrees until ! mixture becomes cl\dy f ! precipitate ( ! oxide ( silv]1 cont9ue to add ammonia 9 small portions until ! fluid aga9 becomes bright f ! oxide ( silv] be+ r$issolv$4 ,:ite bottles4--,p\r half a p9t ( boil+ rose-wat] ^u ?ree ounces ( p[d]$ gall-nuts2 :5 cold1 /ra9 & bottle4 ,?is =ms ! mordant1 & is us$ 9 ! same way z ! fir/-nam$ dye1 l ! sulphuret mordant4 ,x is n s good a dye z ! previ\s "o4 ,,fr5* ,,br[n ,,dye4 ,blue ,bottles4--,saturat$ solution ( sulphate ( copp]2 to ?is add ammonia en\gh to precipitate ! oxide ( copp] & r$issolve x 7z ) ! silv] 9 ! above71 produc+ ! azure liquid4 ,:ite ,bottles4--,mordant4--,saturat$ solution ( prussiate ( potass4 ,artificial hair1 = ! manufacture ( p]ukes1 is dy$ 9 ! same mann] z wool4 ,!re are 9 ! m>ket sev]al o!r hair dyes1 b all ( !m are b modifications ( ! above1 possess+ no m>k$ advantage4 ,,lead ,,dye4 ,liquid hair dye1 n to black5 ! sk91 may be ?us prep>$3--,dissolve 9 "o ounce ( liquor potassae z mu* fre%ly-precipitat$ oxide ( lead z x w take up1 & dilute ! result+ cle> solution ) ?ree ounces ( di/ill$ wat]4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 n to wet ! sk9 unnecess>ily ) x4 ,,quick ,,depilatory ,,or ,,rusma4 7,= remov+ hair47 ,z ! ladies ( ?is c\ntry consid] ! gr[? ( hair ^u ! upp] lip1 ^u ! arms1 & on ! back ( ! neck1 to be detrim5tal to beauty1 ^? :o are tr\bl$ ) su* physical indications ( good heal? & vital /am9a h long _h rec\rse to rusma or depilatory = remov+ x4 ,?is or analog\s prep>ations 7 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry f ! ,ea/1 rusma hav+ be5 9 use 9 ! h>ems ( ,asia = _m ages4 ,be/ lime slak$1 #c lb4 ,orpim5t1 9 p[d]1 #a_/b lbs4 ,mix ! mat]ial by means ( a drum sieve2 pres]ve ! same = sale 9 well-cork$ or /opp]$ bottles4 ,directions to be sold ) ! above4 ,mix ! depilatory p[d] ) en\gh wat] to r5d] x ( a creamy consi/5cy2 lay x ^u ! hair = ab\t five m9utes1 or until its cau/ic action ^u ! sk9 r5d]s x necess>y to be remov$2 a simil> process to %av+ is !n to be gone ?r\gh1 b in/ead ( us+ a razor1 op]ate ) an ivory or bone pap]-knife2 !n wa% ! "p ) pl5ty ( wat]1 & apply a little cold cream4 ,! precise "t to leave depilatory ^u ! "p to be depilat$ _c be giv51 because !re is a physical diff]5ce 9 ! nature ( hair4 ,rav5 tresses require m "t ?an flax5 locks2 ! s5sitiv5ess ( ! sk9 has also to be consid]$4 ,a small fea!r is a v good te/ = its action4 ,a few read]s w1 p]haps1 be disappo9t$ 9 f9d+ t ,i h only giv5 "o =mula = depilatory4 ,! receipts might easily h be5 increas$ 9 numb]1 b n 9 quality4 ,! use ( ars5ical comp\nds is objectionable1 b x und\bt$ly increases ! depilat+ action ( ! comp\nds4 ,a few compil]s ( ,receipt ,books1 ,supplem5ts to ,ph>macopoeias1 & o!rs1 add to ! lime *>coal p[d]1 c>bonate ( potass1 />*1 c42 b :at action h ^! mat]ials--*emically--^u hair8 ,! simple/ depilatory is moi/5$ quicklime1 b x is less en]getic ?an ! mixture recomm5d$ above2 x answ]s v well = tann]s & fellmong]s1 ) :om "t is no object4 ,,section ,,xiv4 ,,absorb5t ,,p[d]s4 ,a lady's toilet-table is incomplete )\t a box ( "s absorb5t p[d]2 inde$1 f our e>lie/ infancy1 p[d] is us$ = dry+ ! sk9 ) ! greate/ b5efit2 no wond] t its use is cont9u$ 9 advanc$ ye>s1 if1 by slight modifications 9 its composition1 x c be employ$ n only z an absorb5t1 b z a means ( p]sonal adornm5t4 ,we are q )9 limits 9 /at+ t _m ton-weights ( su* p[d]s are us$ 9 ?is c\ntry annually4 ,!y are pr9cipally compos$ ( v>i\s />*es1 prep>$ f :eat1 potatoes1 & v>i\s nuts1 mix$ m or less ) p[d]$ talc--( ,hauey1 /eatite 7soap-/one71 ,fr5* *alk1 oxide ( bismu?1 & oxide ( z9c1 c4 ,! mo/ popul> is :at is t]m$ ,,violet ,,p[d]4 ,:eat />*1 #ab lbs4 ,orris-root p[d]1 #b lbs4 ,otto ( lemon1 #a_/b oz4 b]gamot1 #c_/d oz4 cloves1 #b dra*ms4 ,,rose ,,face ,,p[d]4 ,:eat />*1 #g lbs4 ,rose ,p9k1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,otto ( rose1 #b dra*ms4 santal1 #b ,,pla9 ,,or ,,unsc5t$ ,,hair ,,p[d] ,is pure :eat />*4 ,,face ,,p[d]4 ,/>*1 #a lb4 ,oxide ( ,bismu?1 #d oz4 ,,p]le ,,p[d]4 ,fr5* *alk1 #a lb4 ,oxide ( bismu?1 #a oz4 ,oxide ( z9c1 #a oz4 ,,blanc ,,de ,,p]le ,is pure oxide ( bismu? 9 p[d]4 ,,fr5* ,,blanc ,is levigat$ talc pass$ ?r\gh a silk sieve4 ,?is is ! be/ face p[d] made1 p>ticul>ly z x does n discolor f emanation ( ! sk9 or impure atmosph]e4 ,,liquid ,,blanc 7,,= ,,!atrical ,,use74 ,! use ( a :ite pa9t by actresses & danc]s1 is absolutely necess>y2 great ex]tion produces a florid complexion1 :i* is incompatible ) c]ta9 sc5ic effects1 & requires a cosmetic to subdue x4 ,madame ,v----1 dur+ h] /age c>e]1 has probably consum$ m ?an half a hundr$weight ( oxide ( bismu?1 prep>$ ?us3-- ,rose or orange-fl[] wat]1 #a p9t4 ,oxide ( bismu?1 #d oz4 ,mix$ by long trituration4 ,,calc9$ ,,talc ,is also ext5sively us$ z a toilet p[d]1 & is sold "u v>i\s names2 x is n s unctu\s z ! ord9>y k9d4 ,,r\ge ,,& ,,r$ ,,pa9ts4 ,^! prep>ations are 9 dem&1 n only = !atrical use1 b by private individuals4 ,v>i\s %ades ( color are made1 to suit ! complexions ( ! blonde & brunette4 ,"o ( ! be/ k9d is t t]m$ ,,bloom ,,( ,,roses4 ,/rong liquid ammonia1 #a_/b oz4 ,f9e/ c>m9e1 #a_/d oz4 ,rose-wat]1 #a p9t4 ,esprit de rose 7triple71 #a_/b oz4 ,place ! c>m9e into a p9t bottle1 & p\r on x ! ammonia2 all[ !m to rema9 toge!r1 ) occasional agitation1 = two days2 !n add ! rose-wat] & esprit1 & well mix4 ,place ! bottle 9 a quiet situation = a week2 any precipitate ( impurities f ! c>m9e w subside2 ! sup]natant ,bloom ( ,roses is !n to be bottl$ = sale4 ,if ! c>m9e 0 p]fectly pure !re w\ld be no precipitate2 ne>ly all ! c>m9e pur*as$ f ! mak]s is m or less sophi/icat$1 its enorm\s price be+ a premium to its adult]ation4 ,c>m9e _c be manufactur$ pr(itably on a small scale = comm]cial purposes2 f\r or five manufactur]s supply ! :ole ( ,europe6 ,m4 ,tit>d1 ,rue ,gr5i] ,/4 ,laz>e1 ,p>is1 produces1 )\t d\bt1 ! f9e/ article2 s+ul> en\gh1 h[ev]1 ! pr9cipal op]ative 9 ! e/abli%m5t is an old ,engli%man4 ,! prep>ation ( ! f9e/ c>m9e is /ill a my/]y1 because1 on ! "o h&1 its consumption be+ v limit$1 few p]sons are engag$ 9 its manufacture1 &1 ^u ! o!r1 ! raw mat]ial be+ co/ly1 ext5sive exp]im5ts on x _c be conv5i5tly made4--,,dr4 ,,ure4 ,9 ! ,encyclop$ie ,roret w be f\nd no less ?an a doz5 recipes = prep>+ c>m9e2 ! numb] ( =mulae w conv9ce ! mo/ sup]ficial read] t ! true =m is yet )held4 ,analysis has taught u its exact composition2 b a c]ta9 dext]ity ( manipulation & prop] temp]ature are indisp5sable to complete success4 ,mo/ ( ! recipes giv5 by ,dr4 ,ure1 & o!rs1 are f ?is s\rce2 b z !y possess no practical value we refra9 f repr9t+ !m4 ,,toilet ,,r\ges4 ,are prep>$ ( diff]5t %ades by mix+ f9e c>m9e ) talc p[d]1 9 diff]5t proportions1 say1 "o dra*m ( c>m9e to two ounces ( talc1 or "o ( c>m9e to ?ree ( talc1 & s on4 ,^! r\ges are sold 9 p[d]1 & also 9 cake or *9a pots2 = ! latt] ! r\ge is mix$ ) a m9ute portion ( solution ( gum tragacan?4 ,m4 ,tit>d prep>es a great v>iety ( r\ges4 ,9 "s in/ances ! color+-matt] ( ! co*9eal is spread ^u ?ick pap] & dri$ v gradually2 x !n assumes a beautiful gre5 t9t4 ,?is curi\s optical effect is also obs]v$ 9 p9k sauc]s4 ,:at is kn[n z ,*9ese book r\ge is evid5tly made 9 ! same way1 & has be5 import$ into ?is c\ntry = _m ye>s4 ,:5 ! bronze gre5 c>ds are moi/5$ ) a piece ( damp cotton wool1 & appli$ to ! lips or *eeks1 ! color assumes a beautiful rosy hue4 ,common sorts ( r\ge1 call$ !atre r\ge1 are made f ! ,brazil-wood lake2 ano!r k9d is d]iv$ f ! saffl[] 7,c>?amus t9ctorius72 f ?is plant also is made ,,p9k ,,sauc]s4 ,! saffl[] is wa%$ 9 wat] until ! yell[ color+-matt] is remov$2 ! c>?am9e or color pr9ciple is !n dissolv$ out by a weak solution ( c>bonate ( soda2 ! color+ is !n precipitat$ into ! sauc]s by ! addition ( sulphuric acid to ! solution4 ,cotton wool & crape be+ color$ 9 ! same way are us$ = ! same purpose1 ! =m] be+ sold z ,spani% wool1 ! latt] z ,crepon r\ge4 ,,section ,,xv4 ,,too? ,,p[d]s ,,& ,,m\? ,,wa%es4 ,,too? p[d]s1 reg>d$ z a means m]ely ( cleans+ ! tee?1 are mo/ commonly plac$ among cosmetics2 b ?is %\ld n be1 z !y assi/ greatly 9 pres]v+ a heal?y & regul> condition ( ! d5tal ma*9]y1 & s aid 9 p]fect+ z mu* z possible ! act ( ma/ication4 ,9 ?is mann]1 !y may be consid]$ z mo/ useful1 al?\gh x is true1 subord9ate m$ic9al ag5ts4 ,by a c>eful & prud5t use ( !m1 "s ( ! mo/ frequ5t causes ( e>ly loss ( ! tee? may be prev5t$2 ^! are1 ! deposition ( t>t>1 ! swell+ ( ! gums1 & an undue acidity ( ! saliva4 ,! effect result+ f accumulation ( ! t>t> is well kn[n to mo/ p]sons1 & x has be5 di/9ctly %[n t swell+ ( ! sub/ance ( ! gums w ha/5 ! expulsion ( ! tee? f _! sockets2 & ! action ( ! saliva1 if unduly acid1 is kn[n to be at lea/ injuri\s1 if n de/ructive4 ,n[1 ! daily employm5t ( a too? p[d] suffici5tly h>d1 s z to ex]t a tol]able degree ( friction ^u ! tee?1 )\t1 at ! same "t1 injur+ ! enamel ( ! tee?1 w1 9 mo/ cases1 almo/ always prev5t ! t>t> accumulat+ 9 su* a degree z to cause subsequ5t injury to ! tee?2 & a flaccid1 spongy1 relax$ condition ( ! gums may be prev5t$ or ov]come by add+ to su* a too? p[d]1 "s tonic & a/r+5t +r$i5t4 ,a too? p[d] conta9+ *>coal & c9*ona b>k1 w accompli% ^! results 9 mo/ cases1 & !re=e d5ti/s g5]ally recomm5d su*4 ,/ill1 !re are objections to ! use ( *>coal2 x is too h>d & resi/+1 its color is objectionable1 & x is p]fectly insoluble by ! saliva1 x is apt to become lodg$ betwe5 ! tee?1 & !re to collect decompos+ animal & vegetable matt] ar\nd su* p>ticles z may be fix$ 9 ?is position4 ,c9*ona b>k1 too1 is (t5 /r+y1 & has a bitt]1 disagreeable ta/e4 ,m4 ,mialhe highly recomm5ds ! foll[+ =mula3-- ,,mialhe',s ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,sug> ( milk1 "o ?\s& p>ts2 lake1 t5 p>ts2 pure tann91 fifte5 p>ts2 oil ( m9t1 oil ( anise$1 & oil ( orange fl[]s1 s mu* z to imp>t an agreeable flavor to ! composition4 ,8 directions = ! prep>ation ( ?is too? p[d]1 are1 to rub well ! lake ) ! tann91 & gradually add ! sug> ( milk1 previ\sly p[d]$ & sift$2 & la/ly1 ! ess5tial oils are to be c>efully mix$ ) ! p[d]$ sub/ances4 ,exp]i5ce has conv9c$ him ( ! efficacy ( ?is too? p[d]1 ! habitual employm5t ( :i*1 w suffice to pres]ve ! gums & tee? 9 a heal?y /ate4 ,= ^? :o are tr\bl$ ) excessive relaxation & spong9ess ( ! gums1 he recomm5ds ! foll[+ a/r+5t prep>ation3-- ,,mialhe',s ,,d5tifrice4 ,alcohol1 "o ?\s& p>ts2 g5u9e k9o1 "o hundr$ p>ts2 rhatany root1 "o hundr$ p>ts2 t9cture ( balsam ( tolu1 two p>ts2 t9cture ( gum b5zo91 two p>ts2 ess5tial oil ( canella1 two p>ts2 ess5tial oil ( m9t1 two p>ts2 ess5tial oil ( anise$1 "o "p4 ,! k9o & ! rhatany root are to be mac]at$ 9 ! alcohol = sev5 or eight days2 & aft] filtration1 ! o!r articles are to be add$4 ,a teaspoonful ( ?is prep>ation mix$ 9 ?ree or f\r spoonfuls ( wat]1 %\ld be us$ to r9se ! m\?1 aft] ! use ( ! too? p[d]4 ,,camphorat$ ,,*alk4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,p[d]$ orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,p[d]$ camphor1 #a_/d lb4 ,r$uce ! camphor to p[d] by rubb+ x 9 a mort> ) a little _s1 !n sift ! :ole well toge!r4 ,on acc\nt ( ! volatility ( camphor1 ! p[d] %\ld always be sold 9 bottles1 or at lea/ 9 boxes l9$ ) t9foil4 ,,qu99e ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,/>* ,p[d]1 #a_/b lb4 ,orris p[d]1 #a_/b lb4 ,sulphate ( qu99e1 #a dra*m4 ,aft] sift+1 x is ready = sale4 ,,prep>$ ,,*>coal4 ,fre%-made *>coal 9 f9e p[d]1 #g lbs4 ,prep>$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,orris-root1 #a lb4 ,cate*u1 #a_/b lb4 ,cassia b>k1 #a_/b lb4 ,myrrh1 #a_/d lb4 ,sift4 ,,p]uvian ,,b>k ,,p[d]4 ,p]uvian b>k 9 p[d]1 #a_/b lb4 ,bole ,ammoniac1 #a lb4 ,orris p[d]1 #a lb4 ,cassia b>k1 #a_/b lb4 ,p[d]$ myrrh1 #a_/b lb4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( cloves1 #c_/d oz4 ,,homoeopa?ic ,,*alk4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,p[d] orris1 #a oz4 />*1 #a oz4 ,,cuttle ,,fi% ,,p[d]4 ,p[d]$ cuttle-fi%1 #a_/b lb4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,p[d] orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( lemons1 #a oz4 n]oli1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,,borax ,,& ,,myrrh ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,borax p[d]1 #a_/b lb4 ,myrrh p[d]1 #a_/d lb4 ,orris1 #a_/d lb4 ,,f>9a ,,piesse',s ,,p[d]4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #b lbs4 ,orris-root1 #b lbs4 ,rose p9k1 #a dra*m4 ,v f9e p[d]$ sug>1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto ( n]oli1 #a_/b dra*m4 lemons1 #a_/d oz4 b]gamot1 #a_/d oz4 orange-peel1 #a_/d oz4 rosem>y1 #a dra*m4 ,,rose ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,precipitat$ *alk1 #a lb4 ,orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose p9k1 #b dra*ms4 ,otto ( rose1 #a dra*m4 santal1 #a_/d dra*m4 ,,opiate ,,too? ,,pa/e4 ,honey1 #a_/b lb4 ,*alk1 #a_/b lb4 ,orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose ,p9k1 #b dra*ms4 ,otto ( cloves1 nutmeg1 ea*1 #a_/b dra*m4 rose1 ,simple syrup1 en\gh to =m a pa/e4 ,,m\? ,,wa%es4 ,,violet ,,m\? ,,wa%4 ,t9cture ( orris1 #a_/b p9t4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b p9t4 ,_s1 #a_/b p9t4 ,otto ( almonds1 #e drops4 ,,eau ,,botot4 ,t9cture ( c$> wood1 #a p9t4 myrrh1 #a_/d p9t4 rhatany1 #a_/d p9t4 ,otto ( pepp]m9t1 #e drops4 ,all ^! t9ctures %\ld be made ) grape _s1 or at lea/ ) pale unsweet5$ br&y4 ,,botanic ,,/yptic4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a qu>t4 ,rhatany root1 ,gum myrrh1 ( ea*1 #b oz4 ,:ole cloves1 ,mac]ate = f\rte5 days1 & /ra94 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,myrrh ,,& ,,borax4 ,spirits ( w9e1 #a qu>t4 ,borax1 ,honey1 ( ea*1 #a oz4 ,gum myrrh1 #a oz4 ,r$ s&]s wood1 #a oz4 ,rub ! honey & borax well toge!r 9 a mort>1 !n gradually add ! _s1 :i* %\ld n be /rong] ?an 4#ibj1 i4e4 pro( _s1 ! myrrh1 & s&]s wood1 & mac]ate = f\rte5 days4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,myrrh ,,) ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a qu>t4 ,gum myrrh1 #a oz4 ,mac]ate = f\rte5 days1 & filt]4 ,,camphorat$ ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a qu>t4 ,camphor1 #e oz4 ,,section ,,xvi4 ,,hair ,,wa%es4 ,,rosem>y ,,wat]4 ,rosem>y free f /alk1 #aj lbs4 ,wat]1 #ab gallons4 ,draw (f by di/illation t5 gallons = use 9 p]fum]y manufacture4 ,,rosem>y ,,hair ,,wa%4 ,rosem>y wat]1 #a gallon4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a_/b p9t4 ,pe>la%1 #a oz4 ,t9t$ ) br[n color+4 ,,a!nian ,,wat]4 ,rose-wat]1 #a gallon4 ,alcohol1 #a p9t4 ,sassafras wood1 #a_/d lb4 ,pe>la%1 #a oz4 ,boil ! wood 9 ! rose-wat] 9 a glass vessel2 !n1 :5 cold1 add ! pe>la% & _s4 ,,vegetable ,,or ,,botanic ,,extract4 ,rose-wat]1 ,rectifi$ spirits1 ( ea*1 #b qu>ts4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 jasm91 acacia1 ( ea*1 #a_/d p9t4 rose1 tub]euse1 ,extract ( vanilla1 #a_/b p9t4 ,?is is a v beautifully-sc5t$ hair wa%4 ,x retails at a price comm5surate ) its co/4 ,,a/r+5t ,,extract ,,( ,,roses ,,& ,,rosem>y4 ,rosem>y wat]1 #b qu>ts4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b p9t4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a-a_/b p9t4 ,extract ( vanilla1 #a qu>t4 ,magnesia to cle> x1 #b oz4 ,filt] ?r\gh pap]4 ,,saponace\s ,,wa%4 ,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t4 ,rose-wat]1 #a gallon4 ,extract ( rondeletia1 #a_/b p9t4 ,transp>5t soap1 #a_/b oz4 ,hay saffron1 #a_/b dra*m4 ,%ave up ! soap v f9e2 boil x & ! saffron 9 a qu>t ( ! rose-wat]2 :5 dissolv$1 add ! rema9d] ( ! wat]1 !n ! _s1 f9ally ! rondeletia1 :i* is us$ by way ( p]fume4 ,aft] /&+ = two or ?ree days1 x is fit = bottl+4 ,by transmitt$ light x is transp>5t1 b by reflect$ light ! liquid has a pe>ly & s+ul> wavy appe>ance :5 %ak54 ,a simil> prep>ation is call$ ,egg ,julep4 ,,b&ol9es4 ,v>i\s prep>ations are us$ to assi/ 9 dress+ ! hair 9 any p>ticul> =m4 ,"s p]sons use = t purpose a h>d pomatum conta9+ wax1 made up into rolls1 call$ !nce ,baton ,fixeteur4 ,! little fea!rs ( hair1 ) :i* "s ladies are tr\bl$1 are by ! aid ( ^! batons made to lie d[n smoo?4 ,= _! =mula1 see p4 #bbd1 #bbe4 ,! liquid b&ol9es are pr9cipally ( a gummy nature1 be+ made ei!r ) ,icel& moss1 or l9se$ & wat] v>i\sly p]fum$1 also by boil+ qu9ce-se$ ) wat]4 ,p]fum]s1 h[ev]1 *iefly make b&ol9e f gum tragacan?1 :i* exudes f a %rub ( t "n :i* gr[s pl5tifully 9 ,greece & ,turkey4 ,,rose ,,b&ol9e4 ,gum tragacan?1 #f oz4 ,rose-wat]1 #a gallon4 ,otto ( roses1 #a_/b oz4 ,/eep ! gum 9 ! wat] = a day or s4 ,z x swells & =ms a ?ick gelat9\s mass1 x mu/ f "t to "t be well agitat$4 ,aft] ab\t =ty-eight h\rs' mac]ation x is !n to be squeez$ ?r\gh a co>se clean l95 clo?1 & aga9 left to /& = a few days1 & pass$ ?r\gh a l95 clo? a second "t1 to insure uni=mity ( consi/5cy2 :5 ?is is ! case1 ! otto ( rose is to be ?or\ghly incorporat$4 ,! *eap b&ol9e is made )\t ! otto2 = color$ b&ol9e1 x is to be t9t$ ) ammoniacal solution ( c>m9e1 i4e4 ,bloom ( ,roses4 ,see p4 #bcf4 ,,almond ,,b&ol9e ,is made precisely z ! above1 sc5t+ ) a qu>t] ( an ounce ( otto ( almonds 9 place ( ! roses4 ,nor ! sweet smell ,( diff]5t fl[]s 9 odor & 9 hue ,c make me any long] /ory tell4 ,%akspe>e4 ,illu/ration ,,app5dix4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,manufacture ,,( ,,glyc]9e4 ,glyc]9e is g5]ally made on ! l>ge scale1 on ! "o h&1 by directly saponify+ oil ) ! oxide ( lead1 or1 on ! o!r1 f ! wa/e liquor ( soap manufactur]s4 ,to obta9 glyc]9e by means ( ! fir/ ( ^! me?ods is ! rev]se ( simple1 & at ! same "t some:at exp5sive2 & by means ( ! second process1 ! difficulty ( entirely sep>at+ ! sal9e matt]s ( ! wa/e liquor r5d]s x next to impossible to procure a p]fectly pure result4 ,to meet bo? ^! difficulties1 & to meet ! /eadily increas+ dem& = glyc]9e1 ,dr4 ,campbell ,morfit recomm5ds ! foll[+ process1 :i*1 he ass]ts1 he has f\nd1 by exp]i5ce1 to comb9e ! desirable advantages ( economy z reg>ds "t1 tr\ble1 & exp5se4 ,"o hundr$ p\nds ( oil1 tall[1 l>d1 or /e>9 are to be plac$ 9 a clean iron-b\nd b>rel1 & melt$ by ! direct application ( a curr5t ( /eam4 ,:il/ /ill fluid & w>m1 add to x fifte5 p\nds ( lime1 previ\sly slak$1 & made into a milky mixture ) two & a half gallons ( wat]2 !n cov] ! vessel1 & cont9ue ! /eam+ = sev]al h\rs1 or until ! saponification %all be complet$4 ,?is may be kn[n :5 a sample ( ! soap :5 cold gives a smoo? & bright surface on be+ scrap$ ) ! f+]-nail1 & at ! same "t1 breaks ) a crackl+ noise4 ,by ?is process ! fat or oil is decompos$1 its acids unit+ ) ! lime to =m insoluble lime-soap1 :ile ! elim9at$ glyc]9e rema9s 9 solution 9 ! wat] along ) ! excess ( ! lime4 ,aft] x has be5 suffici5tly boil$1 x is all[$ to cool & to settle1 & x is !n to be /ra9$4 ,! /ra9$ liquid conta9s only ! glyc]9e & excess ( lime1 & requires to be c>efully conc5trat$ by heat$ /eam4 ,dur+ evaporation1 a portion ( ! lime is deposit$1 on acc\nt ( its less] solubility 9 hot ?an 9 cold wat]4 ,! residue is remov$ by treat+ ! evaporat$ liquid ) a curr5t ( c>bonic acid gas1 boil+ by heat$ /eam to conv]t a soluble bic>bonate ( lime t may h be5 =m$ into insoluble neutral c>bonate1 decant+ or /ra9+ (f ! cle> sup]natant liquid f ! precipitat$ c>bonate ( lime1 & evaporat+ /ill fur!r1 z be=e1 if necess>y1 s z to drive (f any excess ( wat]4 ,z no?+ fix$ or injuri\s is employ$ 9 ?is process1 glyc]9e1 prep>$ 9 ?is mann]1 may be dep5d$ ^u = its almo/ absolute purity4 ,m4 ,jahn's process is z foll[s3-- ,take ( f9ely-p[d]$ li?>ge five p\nds1 & olive oil n9e p\nds4 ,boil !m toge!r ov] a g5tle fire1 con/antly /irr+1 ) ! addition occasionally ( a small quantity ( w>m wat]1 until ! comp\nd has ! consi/5ce ( pla/]4 ,jahn boils ?is pla/] = half an h\r ) an equal weight ( wat]1 keep+ x at ! same "t con/antly /irr$4 ,:5 cold1 he p\rs (f ! sup]natant fluid1 & repeats ! boil+ ?ree times at lea/ ) a fre% portion ( wat]4 ,! sweet fluids :i* result are mix$1 & evaporat$ to six p\nds1 & sulphurett$ hydrog5 conduct$ ?r\gh !m z long z sulphuret ( lead is precipitat$4 ,! liquid filt]$ f ! sulphuret ( lead is to be r$uc$ to a ?9 syrupy consi/5ce by evaporation4 ,to remove ! br[n color+ matt]1 x mu/ be treat$ ) purifi$ animal *>coal4 ,h[ev]1 ?is ag5t does n prev5t ! glyc]9e becom+ slightly color$ ^u fur!r evaporation4 ,x possesses also /ill a slight smell & ta/e ( lead pla/]1 :i* may be remov$ by dilut+ x ) wat]1 & by dige/ion ) animal *>coal1 & "s fre% burnt-wood *>coal4 ,aft] filtration1 ?is liquid mu/ be evaporat$ until x has acquir$ a specific gravity ( #a4ba1 :5 x w be f\nd to be free f smell1 & ( a pale yell[ color4 ,= ! prep>ation ( glyc]9e1 di/ill$ wat] is necess>y1 to prev5t x be+ contam9at$ ) ! impurities ( common wat]4 ,jahn obta9$1 by ?is me?od1 f ! above quantity ( lead pla/]1 upw>ds ( sev5 ounces ( glyc]9e4--,ar*ives d] ,ph>macie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,te/ ,,= ,,alcohol ,,9 ,,ess5tial ,,oils4 ,j4,j4 ,b]n\lli recomm5ds = ?is purpose acetate ( pota%4 ,:5 to an e!real oil1 contam9at$ ) alcohol1 dry acetate ( pota% is add$1 ?is salt dissolves 9 ! alcohol1 & =ms a solution f :i* ! volatile oil sep>ates4 ,if ! oil be free f alcohol1 ?is salt rema9s dry !re94 ,witt/e91 :o speaks highly ( ?is te/1 has sugge/$ ! foll[+ me?od ( apply+ x z ! be/3--,9 a dry te/-tube1 ab\t half an in* 9 diamet]1 & five or six in*es long1 put no m ?an eight gra9s ( p[d]$ dry acetate ( pota%2 !n fill ! tube two-?irds full ) ! ess5tial oil to be exam9$4 ,! cont5ts ( ! tube mu/ be well /irr$ ) a glass rod1 tak+ c>e n to all[ ! salt to rise above ! oil2 aft]w>ds set aside = a %ort "t4 ,if ! salt be f\nd at ! bottom ( ! tube dry1 x is evid5t t ! oil conta9s no _s4 ,(t5times1 in/ead ( ! dry salt1 b5ea? ! oil is f\nd a cle> syrupy fluid1 :i* is a solution ( ! salt 9 ! _s1 ) :i* ! oil 0 mix$4 ,:5 ! oil conta9s only a little _s1 a small portion ( ! solid salt w be f\nd "u ! syrupy solution4 ,_m ess5tial oils frequ5tly conta9 a trace ( wat]1 :i* does n mat]ially int]f]e ) ?is te/1 because1 al?\gh ! acetate ( pota% becomes moi/ !reby1 x /ill reta9s its pulv]5t =m4 ,a /ill m c]ta9 result may be obta9$ by di/illation 9 a wat]-ba?4 ,all ! ess5tial oils :i* h a high] boil+-po9t ?an _s1 rema9 9 ! retort1 :il/ ! _s passes into ! receiv] ) only a trace ( ! oil1 :]e ! alcohol may be recogniz$ by ! smell & ta/e4 ,%\ld1 h[ev]1 a d\bt exi/1 add to ! di/illate a little acetate ( pota% & /rong sulphuric acid1 & heat ! mixture 9 a te/-tube to ! boil+-po9t1 :5 ! *>act]i/ic odor ( acetic e!r w be manife/1 if any alcohol be pres5t4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,detection ,,( ,,poppy ,,& ,,o!r ,,dry+ ,,oils ,,9 ,,almond ,,& ,,olive ,,oils4 ,x is kn[n t ! ole9 ( ! dry+ oils may be di/+ui%$ f ! ole9 ( ^? oils :i* rema9 greasy 9 ! air by ! fir/ n be+ conv]tible into elaidic acid1 consequ5tly x does n become solid4 ,pr(essor ,wimm] has rec5tly propos$ a conv5i5t me?od = ! =mation ( elaid91 :i* is applicable = ! purpose ( detect+ ! adult]ation ( almond & olive oils ) dry+ oils4 ,he produces nitr\s acid by treat+ iron fil+s 9 a glass bottle ) nitric acid4 ,! vapor ( nitr\s acid is conduct$ ?r\gh a glass tube into wat]1 ^u :i* ! oil to be te/$ is plac$4 ,if ! oil ( almonds or olives conta9s only a small quantity ( poppy oil :5 ?us treat$1 x is entirely conv]t$ into cry/alliz$ elaid91 :il/ ! poppy oil swims on ! top 9 drops4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,color+ ,,matt] ,,( ,,volatile ,,oils4 ,,by ,g4,e4 ,,sa*sse4 ,x is well kn[n t mo/ e!real oils are colorless2 h[ev]1 !re are a great numb] color$1 "s ( :i* are blue1 "s gre51 & "s yell[4 ,up to ! pres5t "t ! "q has n be5 decid$1 :e!r x is ! necess>y prop]ty ( e!real oils to h a color1 or :e!r _! color is n due to ! pres5ce ( "s color+ matt] :i* c be remov$4 ,x is mo/ probable t _! color arises f ! pres5ce ( a =eign sub/ance1 z ! color$ e!real oils c at fir/1 by c>eful di/illation1 be obta9$ colorless1 :il/ lat] ! color$ portion passes ov]4 ,subsequ5t appe>ances lead to ! solution ( ! "q1 & are c]ta9 evid5ce t e!real oils1 :5 !y are color$1 owe _! color to peculi> sub/ances :i*1 by c]ta9 conditions1 may be communicat$ f "o oil to ano!r4 ,:5 a mixture ( oils ( wormwood1 lemons1 & cloves is subject$ to di/illation1 ! previ\sly gre5-color$ oil ( wormwood passes ov]1 at ! comm5cem5t1 colorless1 :ile1 t[>ds ! end ( ! di/illation1 aft] ! receiv] has be5 frequ5tly *>g$1 ! oil ( cloves di/ils ov] 9 v d5se drops ( a d>k gre5 color4 ,x !re=e appe>s t ! gre5 color+ matt] ( ! oil ( wormwood has be5 transf]r$ to ! oil ( cloves4--,zeits*rift fu] ,ph>macie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,artificial ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,oil ,,( ,,c9namon4 ,,by ,a4 ,,/reck]4 ,"s ye>s s9ce1 ,/reck] has %[n t /yrone1 :i* is obta9$ :5 /yrac9e is treat$ ) pota%1 is ! alcohol ( c9namic acid4 ,wolff has conv]t$ ?is alcohol by oxidiz+ ag5ts into c9namic acid4 ,! au?or has n[ prov$ t "u ! same conditions by :i* ord9>y alcohol af=ds aldehyde1 /yrone af=ds ! aldehyde ( c9namic acid1 t is1 oil ( c9namon4 ,x is only necess>y to moi/5 plat9um black ) /yrone1 & let x rema9 9 ! air "s days1 :5 by means ( ! bisulphite ( pota% ! aldehyde d\ble comp\nd may be obta9$ 9 cry/als1 :i* %\ld be wa%$ 9 e!r4 ,by ! addition ( dilut$ sulphuric acid1 ! aldehyde ( c9namic acid is aft]w>ds procur$ pure4 ,^! cry/als also dissolve 9 nitric acid1 & !n =m aft] a few mom5ts cry/als ( ! nitrate ( ! hyduret ( c9namyle4 ,! conv]sion ( /yrone into ! hyduret ( c9namyle by ! action ( ! plat9um black is %[n by ! foll[+ equation3 ,c#ah;,h#aj,o#b #b ,o ,c#ah;,h#h,o#b #b ,,ho4--,comptes ,r5dus4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,detection ,,( ,,spike ,,oil ,,& ,,turp5t9e ,,9 ,,lav5d] ,,oil ,,by ,,dr4 ,j4 ,,ga/ell4 ,!re are two k9ds ( lav5d] oil kn[n 9 comm]ce2 "o1 :i* is v de>1 & is obta9$ f ! fl[]s ( ! ,lav&ula v]a2 ! o!r is mu* *eap]1 & is prep>$ f ! fl[]s ( ! ,lav&ula spica4 ,! latt] is g5]ally t]m$ oil ( spike4 ,9 ! s\? ( ,france1 :e!r ! oil be di/ill$ f ! fl[]s ( ! ,lav&ula v]a or ,lav&ula spica1 x is nam$ oil ( lav5d]4 ,by ! di/illation ( ! :ole plant or only ! /alk & ! leaves1 a small quantity ( oil is obta9$1 :i* is ri* 9 camphor1 & is !re call$ oil ( spike4 ,pure oil ( lav5d] %\ld h a specific gravity f 4#hgf to 4#hhj1 & be completely soluble 9 five p>ts ( alcohol ( a specific gravity ( 4#hid4 ,a great] specific gravity %[s t x is mix$ ) oil ( spike2 & a less solubility1 t x conta9s oil ( turp5t9e4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,diff]5t ,,orange-,,fl[] ,,wat]s ,,f\nd ,,9 ,,comm]ce ,,by ,m4 ,,leguay4 ,!re are ?ree sorts ( orange-fl[] wat]s f\nd 9 comm]ce4 ,! fir/ is di/ill$ f ! fl[]s2 ! second is made ) di/ill$ wat] & n]oli2 & ! ?ird is di/ill$ f ! leaves1 ! /ems1 & ! "y unripe fruit ( ! orange tree4 ,! fir/ may be easily di/+ui%$ by ! addition ( a few drops ( sulphuric acid to "s ( ! wat] 9 a tube2 a f9e rose color is almo/ imm$iately produc$4 ,! second also gives ! same color :5 x is fre%ly prep>$2 b aft] a c]ta9 "t1 two or ?ree mon?s at ! f>!/1 ?is color is no long] produc$1 & ! aroma disappe>s completely4 ,! ?ird is n discolor$ by ! addition ( ! sulphuric acid2 x has sc>cely any odor1 & t r an odor ( ! lemon plant ?an ( orange-fl[]s4--,bullet9 de la ,societe ,ph>maceutique d',indre et ,loire4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,,=mula ,,= ,,conc5trat$ ,,eld]-,,fl[] ,,wat]4 ,krembs recomm5ds ! foll[+ process = mak+ a conc5trat$ eld]-fl[] wat]1 f :i* he /ates ! ord9>y wat] c be extemporane\sly prep>$1 ( excell5t quality1 & ( uni=m /r5g?3--#b lbs4 ( ! fl[]s are to be di/ill$ ) wat] until t :i* passes into ! receiv] has lo/ ne>ly all p]fume4 ,?is w g5]ally happ5 :5 f #ae to #ah p\nds h pass$ ov]4 ,to ! di/illate1 #b lbs4 ( alcohol are to be add$1 & ! mixture di/ill$ until ab\t #e lbs4 are collect$4 ,?is liquor conta9s all ! odor ( ! fl[]s4 ,to make ! ord9>y wat]1 #b ounces ( ! conc5trat$ wat] are to be add$ to #aj ounces ( di/ill$ wat]4--,bu*n]'s ,report4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,practical ,,rem>ks ,,on ,,_s ,,( ,,w9e4 ,,by ,,?omas ,,arnall4 ,! /r5g? ( _s ( w9e is1 by law1 regulat$ by pro( _s 7sp4 gr4 4#ibj7 z a /&>d2 & accord+ly z x is ei!r /rong] or weak] ?an ! above1 x is call$ s mu* p] c5t4 above or bel[ pro(4 ,! t]m p] c5t4 is us$ 9 ?is in/ance 9 a r peculi> s5se4 ,?us1 _s ( w9e at #ef p] c5t4 ov]pro(1 signifies t #ajj gallons ( x are equal to #aef gallons ( pro( _s2 :ile a _s at #bj p] c5t4 und]pro(1 signifies t #ajj gallons are equal to #hj gallons at pro(4 ,! rectifi$ _s ( ! ,ph>macopoeia is #ef p] c5t4 ov]pro(1 & may be r$uc$ to pro( by /rictly adh]+ to ! directions !re giv51 viz41 to mix five measures ) ?ree ( wat]4 ,! result1 h[ev]1 w n be eight measures ( pro( _s2 9 consequ5ce ( ! contraction :i* ensues1 !re w be a defici5cy ( ab\t ,symbol3 oz4iv 9 ea* gallon4 ,?is mu/ be borne 9 m9d 9 prep>+ t9ctures4 ,dur+ a long s]ies ( exp]im5ts on ! prep>ation ( e!rs1 x appe>$ a desid]atum to f9d a ready me?od ( asc]ta9+ h[ mu* _s ( any d5sity w\ld be equal to "o *emical equival5t ( absolute alcohol4 ,by a modification ( a rule employ$ by ! ,excise1 ?is "q may be easily solv$4 ,! ,excise rule is z foll[s3-- ,to r$uce f any giv5 /r5g? to any requir$ /r5g?1 add ! ov]pro( p] c5tage to #ajj1 or subtract ! und]pro( p] c5tage f #ajj4 ,multiply ! result by ! quantity ( _s1 & divide ! product by ! numb] obta9$ by add+ ! requir$ p] c5tage ov]pro(1 or subtract+ ! requir$ p] c5tage und]pro(1 to or f #ajj1 z ! case may be4 ,! result w give ! measure ( ! _s at ! /r5g? requir$4 ,?us1 suppose y wi%$ to r$uce #aj gallons ( _s1 at #ed ov]pro(1 d[n to pro(1 add #ed to #ajj #aed2 multiply by ! quantity1 #aj gallons 7#aed x #aj7 #aedj4 ,! requir$ /r5g? be+ pro(1 ( c\rse !re is no?+ ei!r to add to or take f #ajj2 !re=e1 #aedj divid$ by #ajj #ae4d gallons at pro(2 %[+ t #aj gallons mu/ be made to measure #ae gallons1 #c p9ts1 #d fl4 oz41 by ! addition ( wat]4 ,to asc]ta9 :at quantity ( _s ( any giv5 /r5g? w conta9 "o equival5t ( absolute alcohol4 ,add ! ov]pro( p] c5tage ( ! giv5 _s to #ajj1 z be=e2 & ) ! numb] ?us obta9$ divide #djfb4ahc4 ,! result gives 9 gallons ! quantity equal to f\r equival5ts 7#df x #d74 ,example4--,h[ mu* _s at #ed p] c5t4 ov]pro( is equal to #a equival5t ( absolute alcohol8 ,"h1 #ed #ajj #aed & #djfb4ahc #bf4cggh galls41 or #bf galls4 #c pts4 -------- #aed :i*1 divid$ by #d1 gives #f gallons1 #d p9ts1 #ae oz4 ,suppose ! _s to be #fj ov]pro(1-- #djfb4ahc "o-f\r? ( :i* is equal !n ---------- #be4chh gallons1 to #f gallons1 #b p9ts1 7#ajj #fj7 #ae-a_/b oz4 ,?is rule is f\nd$ on ! foll[+ data4 ,z a gallon ( wat] weighs #aj lbs41 x is obvi\s t ! specific gravity ( any liquid multipli$ by #aj w give ! weight ( "o gallon4 ,! specific gravity ( absolute alcohol is #j4gichaa2 h5ce1 ! weight ( "o gallon w be #g4ichaa lbs41 & its /r5g? is e/imat$ at #ge4be ov]pro(4 #d equival5ts ( alcohol #df x #d #ahd1 & #bc4agicf gallons x #g4ichaa lbs4 p] gallon1 also #ahd4jjjcjid4 ,h5ce x appe>s t #bc4agicf gallons ( absolute alcohol are equal to #d equival5ts4 ,by add+ ! ov]pro( p] c5tage 7#ge4be7 to #ajj1 & multiply+ by ! quantity 7#bc4agicf gallons7 we get ! con/ant numb] #djfb4ahc4 ,! rule might h be5 calculat$ s z to %[ at once ! equival5t1 )\t divid+ by #d2 b x w\ld h requir$ sev]al m places ( decimals2 x w give ! requir$ quantity to a fraction ( a fluid dra*m4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,purification ,,( ,,spirits ,,by ,,filtration4 ,,by ,,mr4 ,w4 ,,s*aeff]4 ,in/ead ( resort+ to repeat$ di/illations = effect+ ! purification ( spirits1 ,mr4 ,s*aeff] proposes ! use ( a filt]4 ,9 a suitable vessel1 ! =m ( :i* is n mat]ial1 a filt]+ b$ is con/ruct$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3--,on a false p]=at$ bottom1 cov]$ ) wooll5 or o!r fabric1 a lay] ( ab\t six in*es ( well-wa%$ & v clean riv] s& is plac$2 next ab\t twelve in*es ( granul> *>coal1 pref]r+ t made f bir*2 on ! *>coal is plac$ a lay] ( ab\t "o in* ( :eat1 boil$ to su* an ext5t z to cause x to swell z l>ge z possible1 & s t x w readily cru% betwe5 ! f+]s4 ,above ?is is laid ab\t t5 in*es ( *>coal1 !n ab\t "o in* ( brok5 oy/] %ells1 & !n ab\t two in*es m ( *>coal1 ov] :i* is plac$ a lay] ( wooll5 or o!r fabric1 & ov] x a p]=at$ p>tition1 on to :i* ! _s to be filt]$ is p\r$2 ! filt] is kept cov]$1 & 9 ord] t ! _s may fl[ freely into ! comp>tm5t ( ! filt] bel[ ! filt]+ mat]ials1 a tube connects su* l[] comp>tm5t ) ! upp] comp>tm5t ( ! filt]1 s t ! air may pass freely betwe5 ! l[] & upp] comp>tm5ts ( ! filt]4 ,on ea*1 ( ! sev]al /rata above describ$1 x is desirable to place a lay] ( filt]+ pap]4 ,! *>coal suitable = ! above purpose is n su* z is obta9$ 9 ! ord9>y mode ( prep>ation4 ,x is plac$ 9 a retort or ov51 & heat$ to a r$ heat until ! blue flame has pass$ (f1 & ! flame become r$4 ,! *>coal is !n cool$ 9 wat]1 9 :i* c>bonate ( pota% has previ\sly be5 dissolv$1 9 ! proportion ( two ounces ( c>bonate to fifty gallons ( wat]4 ,! *>coal be+ depriv$ ( ! wat] is !n r$uc$ to a granul> /ate1 9 :i* condition x is ready = use4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,ess5tial ,,oil ,,or ,,otto ,,( ,,lemons4 ,,by ,,john ,s4 ,,cobb4 7,read be=e ! ,*emical ,discussion ,society47 ,i h rec5tly made "s exp]im5ts ) oil ( lemons1 ( :i* ! foll[+ is a %ort acc\nt3-- ,be+ con/antly annoy$ by ! deposit & alt]ation 9 my ess5ce ( lemons1 ,i h tri$ v>i\s me?ods ( rem$y+ ! inconv5i5ce4 ,i fir/ tri$ r$i/ill+ x1 b besides ! loss consequ5t on di/ill+ small quantities1 ! flavor is !reby impair$4 ,z ! oil became bright] :5 heat$1 ,i anticipat$ t all its precipitable matt] w\ld be ?r[n d[n at a l[ temp]ature1 & ,i appli$ a freez+ mixture1 keep+ ! oil at z]o = "s h\rs4 ,no su* *ange1 h[ev]1 took place4 ,! plan :i* ,i ultimately decid$ ^u z ! be/ :i* ,i _h arriv$ at1 0 to %ake up ! oil ) a little boil+ wat]1 & to leave ! wat] 9 ! bottle2 a mucilag9\s prep>ation =ms on ! top ( ! wat]1 & acquires a c]ta9 t5acity1 s t ! oil may be p\r$ (f to ne>ly ! la/1 )\t di/urb+ ! deposit4 ,p]haps cold wat] w\ld answ] equally well1 7 x c>efully agitat$ ) ! oil & all[$ "s "t to settle4 ,a consid]ation ( its orig9 & con/itution1 inde$1 /r5g!ns ?is op9ion2 = al?\gh lemon otto is obta9$ bo? by di/illation & expression1 t :i* is usually f\nd 9 comm]ce is prep>$ by remov+ ! flav$o ( lemons ) a rasp1 & aft]w>ds express+ x 9 a hair sack1 all[+ ! filtrate to /&1 t x may deposit "s ( its impurities1 decant+ & filt]+4 ,?us obta9$ x /ill conta9s a c]ta9 am\nt ( mucilag9\s matt]1 :i* und]goes spontane\s decomposition1 & ?us 7act+1 9 %ort1 z a f]m5t7 accel]ates a simil> *ange 9 ! oil itself4 ,if ?is view ( its decomposition be a correct "o1 we evid5tly1 9 remov+ ?is matt] by means ( ! wat]1 get rid ( a great s\rce ( alt]ation1 & atta9 ! same result z we %\ld by di/illation1 )\t its wa/e or det]ioration 9 flavor4 ,i am1 h[ev]1 aw>e t "s consid] ! deposit to be modifi$ res94,h ,"s curi\s exp]im5ts ( ,saussure h %[n t volatile oils absorb oxyg5 imm$iately !y h be5 drawn f ! plant1 & are p>tially conv]t$ into a res91 :i* rema9s dissolv$ 9 ! rema9d] ( ! ess5ce4 ,he rem>k$ t ?is prop]ty ( absorb+ oxyg5 gradually increases1 until a maximum is atta9$1 & aga9 dim9i%es aft] a c]ta9 lapse ( "t4 ,9 ! oil ( lav5d] ?is maximum rema9$ only sev5 days1 dur+ ea* ( :i* x absorb$ sev5 times its volume ( oxyg54 ,9 ! oil ( lemons ! maximum 0 n atta9$ until at ! end ( a mon?2 x !n la/$ tw5ty-six days2 dur+ ea* ( :i* x absorb$ twice its volume ( oxyg54 ,! oil ( turp5t9e did n atta9 ! maximum = five mon?s1 x !n rema9$ = "o mon?1 dur+ :i* "t x absorb$ daily its own volume ( oxyg54 ,x is ! res9 =m$ by ! absorption ( oxyg51 & rema9+ dissolv$ 9 ! ess5ce1 :i* de/roys its orig9al flavor4 ,! oil ( lemons pres5ts a v great analogy ) t ( oil ( turp5t9e1 s f> z reg>ds its trans=mations1 & its p[] ( rotat+ a ray ( pol>iz$ light4 ,au?orities diff] z reg>ds ?is latt] prop]ty4 ,p]eira /ates t ! oil ( turp5t9e obta9$ by di/illation ) wat]1 f ,am]ican turp5t9e1 has a molecul> p[] ( "r-h&$ rotation1 :ile ! ,fr5* oil ( turp5t9e _h a left-h&$ rotation4 ,oil ( lemons rotates a ray ( light to ! "r1 b 9 ,france a di/ill$ oil ( lemons1 sold z sc\r+ drops = remov+ spots ( grease1 possesses q ! opposite p[] ( rotation1 & has lo/ all ! orig9al peculi> flavor ( ! oil4 ,oil ( lemons comb9es ) hydro*loric acid to =m an artificial camphor1 j 9 ! same mann] z does oil ( turp5t9e1 b its atom is only "o half t ( ! oil ( turp5t9e4 ,! artificial camphor ( oil ( lemons is repres5t$ by ! =mula1 ,c#aj;,h#h;,h,cl2 ! artificial camphor ( oil ( turp5t9e by ,c#bj;,h#af;,h,cl4 ,accord+ to ,m4 ,biot1 ! camphor =m$ by ! oil ( lemons does n ex]cise any action on pol>iz$ light1 :il/ ! oil ( lemons itself rotates a ray to ! "r4 ,! camphor f oil ( turp5t9e1 on ! contr>y1 does ex]cise on ! pol>iz$ ray ! same p[] z ! oil possess$ :ile 9 its isolat$ /ate1 ( rotat+ to ! left4 ,^! molecul> prop]ties e/abli% an ess5tial diff]5ce betwe5 ! oils ( turp5t9e & lemons1 & may s]ve to detect adult]ation & fraud4 ,x is also a curi\s fact1 t f ! decomposition ( ^! artificial camphors by lime1 volatile oils may be obta9$ by di/illation1 isom]ic ) ! orig9al oils f :i* ! camphors 7 =m$2 b 9 nei!r case has ! new product any action on pol>iz$ light4 ,9 conclusion1 ,i w\ld recomm5d t ?is oil1 z well z all o!r ess5tial oils1 be kept 9 a cool1 d>k place1 :]e no v great *anges ( temp]ature occur4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,b5zoic ,,acid1 ,,& ,,te/s ,,= ,,its ,,purity4 ,,by ,w4 ,,ba/ick4 ,dr4 ,mohr's process = obta9+ b5zoic acid1 :i* is adopt$ by ! ,prussian ,ph>macopoeia1 unque/ionably has ! reputation ( be+ ! be/4 ,accord+ to ?is process1 co>sely-p[d]$ gum b5zo9 is to be /rew$ on ! flat bottom ( a r\nd iron pot :i* has a diamet] ( n9e in*es1 & a height ( ab\t two in*es4 ,on ! surface ( ! pot is spread a piece ( filt]+ pap]1 :i* is fa/5$ to its rim by />* pa/e4 ,a cyl9d] ( v ?ick pap] is atta*$ by means ( a /r+ to ! top ( ! iron pot4 ,heat is !n appli$ by plac+ ! pot on a plate cov]$ ) s&1 ov] ! m\? ( a furnace4 ,x mu/ rema9 expos$ to a g5tle fire f f\r to six h\rs4 ,mohr usually obta9s ab\t an ounce & a half ( b5zoic acid f twelve ounces ( gum b5zo9 by ! fir/ sublimation4 ,z ! gum is n exhau/$ by ! fir/ op]ation1 x may be bruis$ :5 cold & aga9 submitt$ to ! action ( heat1 :5 a fre% portion ( b5zoic acid w sublime f x4 ,?is acid ?us obta9$1 is n p]fectly pure & :ite1 & ,mohr /ates t x is a "q1 9 a m$ic9al & p]fum]y po9t ( view1 :e!r x is s valuable :5 p]fectly pure1 z :5 x conta9s a small portion ( a fragrant volatile oil1 :i* rises ) x f ! gum 9 ! process ( sublimation4 ,! ,london ,ph>macopoeia directs t x %all be prep>$ by sublimation1 & does n prescribe t x %all be free f ?is oil1 to :i* x pr9cipally owes its agreeable odor4 ,by ! second sublimation ! :ole ( ! b5zoic acid is n volatiliz$4 ,:at rema9s 9 ! res9 may be sep>at$ by boil+ x ) cau/ic lime1 & precipitat+ ! acid f ! result+ b5zoate ( lime ) hydro*loric acid4 ,b5zoic acid c be obta9$ also 9 ! wet way1 & ! res9 yields a great] product 9 ?is process ?an 9 ! =m]2 yet x has a less p]fum]y value1 because x is free f ! volatile oil :i*1 z above /at$1 gives x its peculi> odor4 ,! wet me?od devis$ by ,s*eele is z foll[s3--,make "o ounce ( fre%ly-burnt lime into a milk ) f f\r to six ounces ( hot wat]4 ,to ! milk ( lime1 f\r ounces ( p[d]$ b5zo9 & ?irty ounces ( wat] are to be add$1 & ! mixture boil$ = half an h\r1 & /irr$ dur+ ?is op]ation1 & aft]w>ds /ra9$ ?r\gh l954 ,! residue mu/ be a second "t boil$ ) tw5ty ounces ( wat] & /ra9$1 & a ?ird "t ) t5 ounces2 ! fluid products mu/ be mix$ & evaporat$ to "o-f\r? ( _! volume1 & suffici5t hydro*loric acid add$ to r5d] !m slightly acid4 ,:5 q cold1 ! cry/als are to be sep>at$ f ! fluid by means ( a l95 /ra9]1 ^u :i* !y are to be wa%$ ) cold wat]1 & press$1 & !n dissolv$ 9 hot di/ill$ wat]1 f :i* ! cry/als sep>ate on cool+4 ,:5 hydro*loric acid is add$ to a cold conc5trat$ solution ( ! salts ( b5zoic acid1 x is precipitat$ z a :ite p[d]4 ,if ! solution ( ! salts ( ?is acid is too dilute & w>m1 none or only a portion ( ! b5zoic acid w be sep>at$4 ,h[ev]1 ! weak] ! solution is1 & ! m sl[ly x is cool$1 ! l>g] w be ! cry/als ( ?is acid4 ,9 ! prep>ation ( ?is acid 9 ! wet way1 lime is to be pref]r$ to e o!r base1 because x =ms insoluble comb9ations ) ! res9\s con/itu5ts ( ! b5zo91 & because x prev5ts ! gum-res9 f conglom]at+ into an adhesive mass1 & also because an excess ( ?is base is b slightly soluble4 ,/oltze has recomm5d$ a me?od by :i* all ! acid c be remov$ f ! b5zo93--,! res9 is to be dissolv$ 9 _s1 to :i* is to be add$ a wat]y solution ( c>bonate ( soda1 decompos$ previ\sly by alcohol4 ,! _s is to be remov$ by di/illation1 & ! rema9+ wat]y solution1 f :i* ! res9 has be5 sep>at$ by filtration1 treat$ ) dilute sulphuric acid1 to precipitate ! b5zoic acid4 ,?is me?od gives ! greate/ quantity ( acid1 b is att5d$ ) a sacrifice ( "t & alcohol1 :i* r5d]s x 9 an economical po9t ( view inf]ior to ! above process ( ,s*eele4 ,x is s f> valuable1 t ! total acid cont5ts ( ! res9 c be det]m9$ by x4 ,dr4 ,gregory consid]s ! foll[+ process = obta9+ b5zoic acid ! mo/ productive4 ,dissolve b5zo9 9 /rong alcohol1 by ! aid ( heat1 & add to ! solution1 :il/ hot1 hydro*loric acid1 9 suffici5t quantity to precipitate ! res94 ,:5 ! mixture is di/ill$1 ! b5zoic acid passes ov] 9 ! =m ( b5zoic e!r4 ,di/illation mu/ be cont9u$ z long z any e!r passes ov]4 ,wat] add$ t[>ds ! end ( ! op]ation w facilitate ! expulsion ( ! e!r f ! retort4 ,:5 ! e!r ceases to pass ov]1 ! hot wat] 9 ! retort is filt]$1 :i* deposits b5zoic acid on cool+4 ,! b5zoic e!r & all ! di/ill$ liquids are n[ treat$ ) cau/ic pota% until ! e!r is decompos$1 & ! solution is heat$ to boil+1 & sup]-saturat$ ) hydro*loric acid1 :i* aft]w>ds1 on cool+1 deposits1 9 cry/als1 b5zoic acid4 ,b5zoic acid1 z x exi/s 9 ! res91 is ! natural production ( ! plant f :i* ! res9 is d]iv$4 ,x may also be produc$ artificially4 ,abel f\nd t :5 cumole 7,c#ah;,h#ab7 0 treat$ ) nitric acid1 s dilute t no r$ vapors 7 evolv$ = sev]al days1 ?is hydro-c>bon 0 conv]t$ into b5zoic acid4 ,guckelb]g] has1 by ! oxidation ( case9 ) p]oxide ( manganese & sulphuric acid1 obta9$ z "o ( ! products b5zoic acid4 ,album51 fibr91 & gelat9 yield$ simil> results :5 treat$ z above4 ,woehl] has detect$ b5zoic acid 9 ,canadian ca/or1 along ) salic94 ,x is also =m$ by ! oxidation ( ! volatile oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,b5zoate ( pota% results :5 *loride ( b5zoyle is treat$ ) cau/ic pota%4 ,b5zoic acid 9 ! animal economy is conv]t$ into hippuric acid1 :i* may by ! action ( acids1 be reconv]t$ into b5zoic acid4 ,b5zoic acid %\ld be completely volatile1 )\t leav+ any a% or be+ c>boniz$ :5 heat$4 ,:5 dissolv$ 9 w>m wat]1 to :i* a little nitric acid has be5 add$1 nitrate ( silv] & *loride ( b>ium %\ld produce no precipitates4 ,oxalate ( pota% %\ld give no turbidity to an ammoniacal solution ( ?is acid4 ,:5 heat$ ) an excess ( cau/ic pota% x %\ld evolve no smell ( ammonia1 o!rwise1 x has be5 adult]at$ ) sal ammoniac4 ,9 _s1 b5zoic acid is easily soluble1 & requires #bjj p>ts ( cold & #bj p>ts ( boil+ wat] to dissolve "o "p ( x4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,! ,,color+-,,matt]s ,,( ,,fl[]s4 ,,by ,,fremy ,,& ,,cloez4 ,*emi/s possess only a v incomplete k ( ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s4 ,_! inve/igation involves difficulties :i* _c be mi/ak54 ,! matt]s :i* color fl[]s are uncry/alliz$2 !y frequ5tly *ange by ! action ( ! reag5ts employ$ = _! prep>ation2 &1 also1 v brilliantly-color$ fl[]s owe _! color to v small quantities ( color+ matt]4 ,on ! nature ( ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s sev]al op9ions h be5 express$4 ,"s obs]v]s h assum$ t fl[]s owe _! color to only two color+ matt]s1 "o ( :i* is t]m$ an?ocyan1 & ! o!r an?oxan?9e4 ,o!rs w f9d a relation betwe5 ! gre5 color+ ( leaves1 ! *lorophylle1 & ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s4 ,!y support _! op9ion g5]ally on ! results ( ! elem5t>y analysis ( ^? diff]5t bodies2 b all *emi/s "k t *lorophylle has n yet be5 prep>$ 9 a pure condition4 ,probably1 x reta9s v>i\s quantities ( fatty & album9\s bodies4 ,fur!r1 ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s are sc>cely kn[n1 s t x is impossible to e/abli% relations support$ by ! necess>ily unc]ta9 composition ( impure bodies4 ,"s "t s9ce ! blue color ( fl[]s 0 ascrib$ to ! pres5ce ( indigo2 b ,*evreul has %[n1 9 a c]ta9 way1 t ! blue sub/ance ( fl[]s is always r$d5$ by acids2 & t ) indigo x is q diff]5t1 :i*1 z is kn[n1 reta9s its blue color ev5 :5 ! /ronge/ acids are all[$ to act on x4 ,x is ?us se5 t ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s h h]et(ore only 9 a sup]ficial mann] be5 exam9$1 & t x is important to aga9 und]take _! complete exam9ation1 z ^! bodies are int]e/+ to ! *emi/1 because !y are employ$ z reag5ts 9 ! laboratory = ! recognition ( alkalies2 & by an improv$ k ( !m ! flori/ might f9d ! way by :i* he c\ld give to cultivat$ fl[]s v>i\s colors4 ,we h believ$ t be=e und]tak+ _! elem5t>y analysis1 me?ods mu/ be c>efully s\ght = :i* c be foll[$ = ! obta9m5t ( ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s1 & t x %\ld be prov$ :e!r ^! sub/ances are to be consid]$ z indep5d5t bodies1 or :e!r !y proce$ f "o & ! same matt]1 :i* is *ang$ 9 v>i\s ways by ! juices ( ! plant4 ,we n[ publi% ! results ( our fir/ inve/igations4 ,blue ,color+ ,matt] ( ,fl[]s 7,cyan9e74--,! blue color+ matt] ( fl[]s we propose to call cyan9e4 ,to obta9 ?is sub/ance we treat ! petals ( ,c5tauria cyanus1 ,viola odorata1 or ,iris pseudacorus1 ) boil+ alcohol1 by :i* ! fl[]s are decoloriz$2 & ! liquid acquires imm$iately a f9e blue color4 ,if ! color+ matt] is all[$ to rema9 "s "t 9 contact ) alcohol1 x is p]ceiv$ t ! blue ( ! liquid gradually disappe>s1 & soon a yell[ br[n coloration takes its place4 ,! color+ matt] has 9 ?is case suff]$ an actual r$uction by ! prolong$ action ( ! alcohol1 b x w aga9 assume its orig9al color :5 ! alcohol is all[$ to evaporate 9 ! air4 ,nev]!less1 ! alcohol mu/ n be all[$ to rema9 9 contact too long ) ! color+ matt]1 because ! alcoholic extract w n !n aga9 assume its blue coloration by ! action ( oxyg54 ,! residue rema9+ f ! evaporation ( ! alcohol is treat$ ) wat]1 :i* sep>ates a fatty & res9\s sub/ance4 ,! wat]y solution :i* conta9s ! color+ matt] is !n precipitat$ by neutral acetate ( lead4 ,! precipitate1 :i* possesses a beautiful gre5 color1 c be wa%$ ) pl5ty ( wat]1 & !n decompos$ ) sulphurett$ hydrog52 ! color+ matt] passes into ! wat]y solution1 :i* is c>efully evaporat$ 9 a wat]-ba?2 ! residue is aga9 dissolv$ 9 absolute alcohol2 & la/ly1 ! alcoholic solution is mix$ ) e!r1 :i* precipitates ! cyan9e 9 ! =m ( blue flocks4 ,cyan9e is uncry/allizable1 soluble 9 wat] & alcohol1 insoluble 9 e!r2 acids1 & acid salts color x imm$iately r$2 by alkalies x is1 z kn[n1 color$ gre54 ,cyan9e appe>s to behave z an acid1 at lea/ x =ms ) lime1 b>yta1 /rontia1 oxide ( lead1 c41 gre5 comp\nds insoluble 9 wat]4 ,bodies absorb+ oxyg51 z sulphur\s acid1 phosphor\s acid1 & alcohols1 decolorize x2 "u ! influ5ce ( oxyg5 its color is re/or$4 ,we mu/ "h m5tion t ,moroz has prep>$ a beautiful blue sub/ance f ,c5tauria cyanus by treatm5t ) absolute alcohol4 ,rose-r$ ,color+ ,matt]4--,we h employ$ alcohol to extract ! sub/ance :i* colors rose-r$ c]ta9 dahlias1 roses1 poeonias1 c4 ,= ! procuration ( ?is color+ matt] ! me?od pursu$ is exactly z t = ! prep>ation ( cyan9e4 ,by an att5tive comp>ison ( ! prop]ties ( ?is color+ matt] ) ^? ( cyan9e1 we h f\nd t ! rose-r$ color+ matt] is ! same z ! blue1 or at lea/ results f a modification ( ! same indep5d5t pr9ciple4 ,x appe>s 9 ! rose-r$ modification1 :5 ! juice ( ! plant1 ) :i* x exi/s 9 contact1 possesses an acid reaction4 ,we h always obs]v$ ?is acid reaction 9 ! juices ( plants ) r$ or rose-r$ coloration1 :ile ! blue juices ( plants h always exhibit$ an alkal9e reaction4 ,we h expos$ mo/ ( ! rose-r$ or r$-color$ fl[]s :i* are cultivat$ 9 ! ,p>is ,museum to ! influ5ce ( alkalies1 & h se5 t !y fir/ become blue & !n gre5 by _! action4 ,x is (t5 p]ceiv$ t c]ta9 rose-r$ fl[]s1 z ^? ( ! ,mall[1 & 9 p>ticul> ^? ( ! ,hibiscus ,syriacus1 acquire by fad+ a blue & !n a gre5 coloration1 :i* *ange1 z we h f\nd1 dep5ds on ! decomposition ( an organic nitrog5\s sub/ance1 :i* is f\nd v frequ5tly 9 ! petals4 ,?is body g5]ates z x decomposes ammonia1 :i* communicates to ! fl[]s ! blue or gre5 color4 ,by action ( weak acids1 ! petals c be re/or$ to _! rose-r$ color4 ,! alt]ation ( color ( c]ta9 rose-r$ fl[]s c also be obs]v$ :5 ! petals are v rapidly dri$1 = example1 9 vacuo1 by :i* x _c be easily assum$ t a nitrog5\s body has und]gone decomposition to ! evolution ( ammonia4 ,b1 be=e all ?+s1 x mu/ be m5tion$ t 9 ?is case ! modification ( color passes into violet1 & nev] arrives at gre52 &1 fur!r1 t x is always accompani$ ) ! evolution ( c>bonic acid1 :i* we h detect$ by a direct exp]im5t4 ,petals :i* 7 be=e rose-r$1 & h become violet by slight dry+1 evolve c>bonic acid1 & on t acc\nt x may be assum$ t ! rose-r$ color is produc$ 9 ! petals by ?is c>bonic acid1 & t by its expulsion ! petals assume ! blue color1 by :i* ! fl[]s ) neutral juices are *>act]iz$4 ,we believe t we are able to speak ) c]ta9ty t fl[]s ) a rose-r$1 violet1 or blue color1 owe _! coloration to "o & ! same sub/ance1 b :i* is modifi$ 9 v>i\s ways by ! influ5ce ( ! juices ( plants4 ,sc>let-r$ fl[]s also conta9 cyan9e r$d5$ by an acid1 b 9 su* cases ?is sub/ance is mix$ ) a yell[ color+ matt] :i* we w n[ describe4 ,yell[ ,color+ ,matt]4--,! simple/ exp]im5ts %[ t no analogy exi/s betwe5 ! sub/ance :i* colors fl[]s yell[ & t ( :i* we h already spok54 ,! ag5ts :i* g5]ate s easily ) cyan9e1 ! rose-r$1 violet1 or gre5 coloration1 _c 9 any case imp>t ^! colors to ! yell[ sub/ance obta9$ f fl[]s4 ,by ! exam9ation ( ! v>i\s yell[-color$ fl[]s1 we h asc]ta9$ t !y owe _! coloration to two sub/ances1 :i* diff] f "o ano!r 9 _! prop]ties1 & appe> n to be d]iv$ f ! same indep5d5t pr9ciple4 ,"o is completely insoluble 9 wat]1 :i* we h t]m$ xan?9e1 a "n :i* ,runge has giv5 to a yell[ matt] f madd]4 ,z ?is "n has n be5 accept$ 9 sci5ce1 we h employ$ x to d5ote "o ( ! color+ matt]s ( yell[ fl[]s4 ,! o!r sub/ance is v soluble 9 wat]1 & is by u t]m$ xan!9e4 ,xan?9e1 or ! ,yell[ ,color+ ,matt] insoluble 9 wat]4--,we h prep>$ ?is color+ matt] f _m yell[ fl[]s1 b *iefly f ,helian?us annuus4 ,to obta9 x we treat ! fl[]s ) boil+ absolute alcohol1 :i* dissolves ! color+ matt] 9 ! heat1 & by cool+ almo/ completely all[s x aga9 to precipitate4 ,! yell[ deposit :i* is obta9$ 9 ?is way1 is n pure xan?9e1 z x conta9s a r consid]able quantity ( oil4 ,to sep>ate ?is oil we h rec\rse to a mod]ate saponification2 ?us1 we heat ! yell[ precipitate ) a small quantity ( alkali to saponify ! fatty body mix$ ) ! xan?9e1 :i* ev5 conta9s ! xan?9e dissolv$4 ,z ! color+ matt] is soluble 9 ! soap solution1 we d n treat ! mass ) wat]1 b decompose x ) an acid :i* isolates ! xan?9e & ! fatty acids result+ f ! saponification4 ,?is precipitate we treat ) cold alcohol1 :i* leaves beh9d ! fatty acids1 & dissolves ! xan?9e4 ,?is sub/ance is a f9e yell[ color1 insoluble 9 wat]1 b soluble 9 alcohol & e!r1 :i* are !reby color$ gold5 yell[4 ,x appe>s to be uncry/allizable1 & possesses ! g5]al prop]ties ( res9s4 ,xan?9e1 9 comb9ation ) cyan9e1 modifi$ by ! v>i\s juices ( plants1 communicates 9 v>iable proportions orange-yell[1 sc>let-r$1 & r$ colors to fl[]s4 ,xan!9e1 or ! ,color+ ,matt] soluble 9 wat]4--,by ! prep>ation ( ! sub/ance :i* colors yell[ c]ta9 dahlias1 x is at once p]ceiv$ t x has no analogy to xan?9e4 ,! latt] is z kn[n insoluble 9 wat]1 :ile ! color+ matt] "u consid]ation is readily soluble 9 wat]4 ,to obta9 ! xan?9e we treat ! petals ( yell[ fl[]+ dahlias ) alcohol1 :i* quickly dissolves ! yell[ color+ matt]1 besides ! fat & res94 ,! solution is evaporat$ to dryness1 & ! residue treat$ ) wat]1 :]eby ! fat & res9 are sep>at$4 ,! wat] is aga9 evaporat$ to dryness1 & ! residue treat$ ) absolute alcohol4 ,! result+ solution dilut$ ) wat] is mix$ ) neutral acetate ( lead1 :i* precipitates ! color+ matt]s4 ,! lead precipitate is !n decompos$ ) sulphuric acid1 ^u :i* ! xan!9e :i* rema9s dissolv$ 9 ! wat] is purifi$ by alcohol4 ,xan!9e is soluble 9 wat]1 alcohol1 & e!r1 b cry/allizes f none ( ^! solutions4 ,alkalies color x int5sely br[n4 ,its p[] ( coloration is consid]able4 ,x dyes v>i\s fabrics ( a yell[ tone1 :i* is )\t brilliancy4 ,acids aga9 de/roy ! br[n coloration produc$ by alkalies4 ,xan!9e comb9es ) mo/ metallic bases1 & =ms !re) yell[ or br[n insoluble lakes4 ,! facts "h relat$ agree ) all :i* has be5 previ\sly obs]v$ reg>d+ ! color+ matt]s ( fl[]s4 ,x is kn[n t blue fl[]s c become r$1 & ev5 :ite1 :]e _! color+ matt] is de/roy$1 b nev] yell[--& vice v]sa4 ,^! ?ree color+ matt]s c g5]ate ! colors ei!r alone or by admixture1 :i* are se5 9 fl[]s2 b :e!r !y are ! only matt]s :i* color fl[]s1 we are at pres5t unable to det]m9e4--,j\rnal de ,ph>macie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,improv$ ,,process ,,= ,,blea*+ ,,bees'-,,wax ,,& ,,! ,,fatty ,,acids4 ,,by ,,mr4 ,g4,f4 ,,wilson4 ,?is improv$ process consi/s ( two p>ts3--#a/1 ! application ( highly-heat$ /eam to heat ! fatty matt]s "u treatm5t1 by :i* means ! requisite heat = melt+ ^! sub/ances is obta9$1 & at ! same "t ! atmosph]e is !reby exclud$2 ! heat$ /eam s appli$ 9 its passage (f1 c>ries ) x ! (f5sive smells giv5 (f by ! fatty matt]s1 & be+ made to trav]se a pipe or passage up or along :i* gase\s *lor9e is all[$ to fl[1 a complete dis9fection ( ! (f5sive products is !reby effect$4 #b;dly1 ! treat+ ( bees'-wax 9 a mixture ( h>d acid fat & bees'-wax1 ) comp\nds ( *lor9e & oxyg51 pref]r+ to employ t dis5gag$ f *lorate ( pota% by treat+ x ) sulphuric acid4 ,= ?is purpose1 ,mr4 ,wilson takes at ! rate1 say1 ( a ton ( yell[ bees'-wax1 & melts & boils x up ) free /eam = ab\t half an h\r4 ,x is !n all[$ to /& a %ort "t1 & is !n decant$ into ano!r vessel provid$ ) a /eam-pipe to emit free /eam2 ab\t #bj lbs4 ( *lorate ( pota% is add$1 & ! /eam turn$ on2 #hj lbs4 ( sulphuric acid1 dilut$ ) a l weight ( wat]1 is !n gradually add$4 ,! matt]s are all[$ to /& = a %ort "t1 & are !n decant$ into ano!r vessel1 & aga9 boil$ up ) free /eam1 & treat$ ) a l quantity ( dilut$ sulphuric acid4 ,! bees'-wax is !n decant$ into a receiv]1 & is ready = use4 ,! bees'-wax may1 be=e und]go+ ^! processes1 be comb9$ & boil$ up ) a h>d fatty acid1 & !n treat$ z above describ$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,*emical ,,exam9ation ,,( ,,naples ,,soap4 ,a4 ,faiszt has submitt$ ?is celebrat$ %av+ soap to analysis4 ,he /ates t x is made by saponify+ mutton fat ) lime1 & !n sep>at+ ! fatty acids f ! soap ?us =m$1 by means ( a m9]al acid4 ,^! fatty acids are aft]w>ds comb9$ ) ord9>y cau/ic pota% to produce ! ,naples soap4 ,he f\nd t #ajj p>ts ( ?is soap conta9$ ,p>ts4 ,fatty acids1 #eg4ad ,pota% comb9$ ) ! fatty acids1 #aj4ci ,sulphate ( pota%1 *loride ( potassium1 ) a trace ( c>bonate ( pota%1 #d4bb ,silica1 c41 #j4df ,wat]1 #bg4fh ----- #ii4hi ,gew]beblatt aus ,wurttemb]g4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,manufacture ,,( ,,soap4 ,! removal ( ! duty f soap1 & ! consequ5t emancipation ( ?is bran* ( indu/ry f ! t5d] m]cies ( ! ,excise1 has giv5 a fre% impetus to ! manufacture ( ?is important article ( daily use1 & enabl$ "s processes to be practically c>ri$ out 9 ,engl&1 :i*1 previ\s to ! removal ( ! duty1 c\ld n be adopt$ 9 ?is "p ( h] ,maje/y's dom9ions4 ,x w d\btless appe> /range to ^? unacqua9t$ ) ! circum/ances1 t ow+ to ! mode ( levy+ ! duty by admeasurem5t1 & n by actual weight1 ! mak] ( a p>ticul> k9d ( soap 0 deb>r$ ! privilege ( manufactur+ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,=tunately = him1 ! manufacture ( soap be+ free f all ,excise re/rictions 9 ,irel&1 he 0 enabl$ to c>ry out 8 process 9 ! si/] k+dom1 :5ce x 0 export$ to ,engl&1 & admitt$ "h on paym5t ( ! ,cu/oms' duty1 :i* 0 ! same z ! ,excise duty on its manufacture "h4 ,all ?is r\ndab\t me?od ( do+ bus9ess is n[ done away )1 & no re/riction n[ exi/s to m> ! peace ( ! soap manufactur]4 ,among/ v>i\s new processes lately introduc$ is t ( ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,j5n+s1 :i* is practically c>ri$ out 9 ! foll[+ mann]3-- ,comb9e #ajjj lbs4 ( /e>ic or m>g>ic acid1 z free f ela9e or ole9e z possible1 or palmat9e1 or any vegetable or animal /e>9e or m>g>9e1 at ! temp]ature ( #bab deg4 ,fahr41 ) a solution ( bic>bonate ( pota% or soda1 specific gravity #aejj4 ,con/antly /ir or mix until an intimate comb9ation is obta9$1 & t ! elem5ts w n "p :5 tri$ ^u glass or any o!r simil> sub/ance4 ,:5 ! mass is cool$ d[n to ab\t #fj deg4 ,fahr4 add "o p\nd p] c5t4 ( liquor ammoniae1 specific gravity #hhj1 & "o p\nd p] c5t4 ( /ronge/ solution ( cau/ic pota%2 ^! are to be add$ gradually1 & fully mix$ or /irr$ until p]fectly comb9$4 ,dissolve #ae to #ah p\nds p] c5t4 ( common res9 ( comm]ce1 by boil+ x ) a solution ( subc>bonate ( pota% & common soda ( comm]ce1 9 equal p>ts1 z mu* z w give ! solution a specific gravity ( ab\t #ahjj1 :5 boil+ hot4 ,mix ^! p]fectly ) ! above-m5tion$ /e>ic or m>g>ic acids1 & c>bonat$ alkali2 !n add a /rong solution ( cau/ic pota% or soda1 until a p]fect saponification is produc$4 ,! dose ( cau/ic alkali w mu* dep5d ^u ! purity ( ! /e>9e or m>g>9e employ$4 ,! sep>ation is n[ effect$ by us+ common salt1 or sulphate ( soda1 c41 z is kn[n & practis$ by soap manufactur]s4 ,if ! soap int5d$ to be produc$ is to be colorless1 no res9 mu/ be employ$1 & a l>g] dose ( liquor ammoniae & cau/ic alkali mu/ be us$1 accord+ to ! dryness ( ! /e>9e matt]s to be op]at$ ^u4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,,simple ,,& ,,c]ta9 ,,me?od ,,to ,,det]m9e ,,! ,,comm]cial ,,value ,,( ,,soap4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,,alex&] ,m,ue,l,l,e,r4 ,9 consequ5ce ( ! c]emoni\s process by :i* ! fatty acids are det]m9$ 9 "o portion ( ! soap1 & ! alkali by ! inc9]ation ( ano!r1 ,i consid] ! foll[+ me?od is n unwor?y ( publication1 because x appe>s to af=d quick] & m correct results by reason ( ! great] simplicity ( ! manipulation4 ,x is available pr9cipally = soda soaps1 :i* are ! mo/ common2 b x may be also employ$ ) correspond+ alt]ations = soaps :i* h o!r bases4 ,a piece ( soap weigh+ two or ?ree grammes is dissolv$ 9 a t>$ beak] glass ( ab\t #afj cubic c5timetres capacity ) #hj to #ajj cubic c5timetres ( wat]1 by heat1 9 a wat]-ba?1 & !n ?ree or f\r times ! quantity ( dilut$ sulphuric acid or z mu* z is necess>y to decompose ! soap1 add$ f a burette4 ,:51 aft] repeat$ agitation1 ! fatty acids h sep>at$ 9 a transp>5t cle> /ratum f ! aque\s solution1 x is all[$ to cool1 & !n ! cont5ts ( ! beak] glass are plac$ 9 a moi/5$ filt]1 :i* has be5 previ\sly dri$ at #bab deg4 ,fahr4 & weigh$4 ,! cont5ts ( ! filt] are wa%$ until _! acid reaction disappe>s4 ,9 ! mean:ile ! beak] glass is plac$ 9 a /eam-ba?1 s t1 x be+ already dry1 may support ! wa%$ & p>tly dry filt]1 :i* is laid on ! m\? ( ! glass z if x 7 9 ! funnel4 ,! fatty acids soon pass ?r\gh ! pap]1 & = ! mo/ "p fl[ ultimately to ! bottom ( ! beak] glass2 ! increase ( weight ( :i*1 aft] cool+1 & ! subtraction ( ! weight ( ! filt]1 gives ! quantity ( fatty acids pres5t 9 ! soap4 ,a second dry+ & weigh+ is n necess>y1 if on ! cold sides ( ! int]ior ( ! glass no damp is to be obs]v$1 :i* is occasion$ by a trace ( wat] /ill pres5t4 ,if ! quantity ( oxide ( iron add$ to m>ble ! soap is consid]able1 x may be easily f\nd by inc9]at+ ! filt] & det]m9+ ! weight ( ! residue4 ,! fluid runs f ! fatty acids on ! filt]1 :i*1 ) ! wa%+s1 has be5 pres]v$ 9 a suffici5tly l>ge beak] glass1 is color$ ) t9cture ( litmus1 & decompos$ ) a te/ alkal9e solution until ! blue color appe>s4 ,! diff]5ce ( ! quantity ( alkali requir$ to neutralize ! sulphuric acid1 & ! quantity ( sulphuric acid us$ 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 all[s a calculation to be made z to ! quantity ( effective alkali 9 ! soap1 = example3-- #bc4hf grms4 ( soap 7p>tly cocoa-nut oil soap74 #ag4ie fatty acids ) filt]4 #jd4dd filt]4 ----- #ac4ea grms4 ( hydrates ( fatty acids #ef4fb p] c5t4 #bh4jj cub4 c5t4 ( ! dilut$ sulphuric acid appli$ = ! decomposition ( ! soap1 ( :i* #ajj cub4 c5t4 repres5t #bihb grms4 ( c>bonate ( soda4 #ag4ee cub4 c5t4 ( alkal9e fluid1 :i* 7 us$ = ! saturation ( ! above acid1 & ( :i* #ajj cub4 c5t4 saturate an equal quantity ( t acid4 ---- #aj4de cub4 c5t4 ( ! sulphuric necess>y = ! alkali conta9$ 9 ! soap1 repres5t+ #j4ahbc grms4 ( soda #g4fd p] c5t4 ,a det]m9ation ( ! alkali z a sulphate af=d$ 9 ano!r portion ( soap #i4eg p] c5t4 ( soda1 because ! sulphate ( soda & *loride ( sodium pres5t 9 ! soap gave up _! alkali4 ,! alkal9e fluid appli$ by me 0 a sac*>9e solution ( lime1 :i* c be naturally replac$ by a solution ( soda1 & mu/ be if ! *loride ( sodium & sulphate ( soda mix$ ) ! soap %all be det]m9$ 9 ! foll[+ way3-- ,! fluid aga9 exactly neutraliz$ ) alkali is evaporat$ to dryness1 & ! residue g5tly heat$ to r$ness4 ,z 9 ! above manipulation1 ! fluid 0 n heat$ to ! boil+ po9t1 ! orig9al *loride ( sodium & sulphate ( soda are conta9$ 9 ! weigh$ residue1 besides ! soda ( ! soap & t :i* has be5 add$ ) ! sulphuric acid1 =m+ sulphate ( soda4 ,a second exposure to a r$ heat ) sulphuric acid conv]ts ! :ole residue into sulphate ( soda1 & f ! increase ( weight1 by a comp>ison ( ! equival5ts ( ,na,cl & ,na,o1 ,,s#c ! quantity ( ! =m] may be decid$4 ,accord+ to ! equival5ts :i* ,kopp furni%$ 9 #ahej1 ! increase ( weight to ! *loride ( sodium is z #a3d4fh4 ,! orig9al sulphate ( soda mu/ be1 la/ly1 f\nd by ! subtraction ( ! same salt =m$ plus ! calculat$ *loride ( sodium f ! fir/ heat$ residue4 ,9 practice1 x is seldom necess>y to proce$ ) ! det]m9ation ( ! *loride ( sodium & sulphate ( soda1 except ) /irr$ & cocoa-nut oil soaps2 c]ta9ly less ( ! tru? is se5 if1 aft] ! above det]m9ation ( ! fatty acids & ! effective alkali1 ! abs5t p] c5tage ( wat] is introduc$ 9 ! calculation1 ?an if ! wat] is reckon$1 :i* is nev] completely evolv$ f soap1 ev5 te*nically prep>$ at #cjb deg4 ,fahr41 & ano!r det]m9ation made ( ! fatty acids or alkali en bloc ! fatty acids1 or ev5 ! alkal9e cont5ts4 ,! me?od "h giv5 p>takes ( ! usual imp]fections1 t ! fatty acids z well z ! unsaponifi$ soap are equally e/imat$1 & ! mix$ hydrate or c>bonate ( ! alkali z well z ! comb9$ alkali4 ,! pres5ce ( ! c>bonate c be easily recogniz$ by ! foam+ ( ! soap solution1 ^u ! addition ( ! sulphuric acid4 ,^! imp]fections1 h[ev]1 are ( little importance4 ,x mu/ be grant$ t ! m9utely correct det]m9ation ( ! con/itution ( soap mu/ be always yield$ up to ^? :o are te*nically conv]sant ) ?is dep>tm5t ( *emi/ry1 ! e/imation ( free alkali & un*ang$ fat exclud$ 91 at lea/1 by c]ta9 ages ( ! soap4 ,fur!r1 a consid]able excess ( "o or ano!r +r$i5t soon betrays itself by a correspond+ dep>ture 9 ! soap ( ! *>act]i/ic prop]ties ( a good product1 & a small excess c be judg$ suffici5tly exact f ! proportion ( ! alkali1 :i*1 suppos+ soda pres5t1 %\ld n am\nt to m ?an #ac p] c5t4 ) a pure cocoa-nut oil soap1 n less ?an #aa4e p] c5t4 ) a tall[ soap2 b ) palm oil & mix$ soaps ! "o or ! o!r limit approximates4--,j\rnal fu] ,praktis*e ,*emie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,! ,,natural ,,fats4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,,*>les ,l,oe,w,i,g4 ,! fats :i* exi/ 9 nature c be divid$ into ! g5]al & ! special2 ! =m] exi/ 9 almo/ all plants & p>ts ( plants2 ! latt] includes only "s vegetable sub/ances1 z lauro/e>9e1 myri/ic9e1 & palmat9e4 ,! consi/5ce ( fats ( ! g5]al k9d dep5d ^u ! proportions ( m>g>9e1 /e>9e1 & ole9e conta9$ 9 !m4 ,! =m] prepond]ate 9 ! solid fats 7butt]1 l>d1 & tall[72 & ! latt] 9 ! fluid ones or oils4 ,accord+ z an oil conta9s oleic acid or ol9ic acid1 x is t]m$ a fatty or dry+ oil4 ,to ! class ( fatty oils belong olive1 almond1 hazel-nut1 bee*1 rape oils1 c42 to t ( dry+ oils1 l9se$1 nut1 hemp1 poppy1 grape-se$1 oils1 c42 :i* are us$ = v>ni%es4 ,9 ! vegetable k+dom ! fats are *iefly 9 ! se$s & 9 _! cov]+s1 seldom 9 ! p]ispemium 7poppy71 & 9 ! fle%y sub/ance surr\nd+ ! se$ 7olive74 ,! fat 9 ! se$ is mo/ly enclos$ 9 cells ) a prote9e comp\nd4 ,9 ! animal k+dom c]ta9 p>ts ( ! body are q fill$ ) fat-cells1 p>ticul>ly "u ! sk9 7,paniculus adiposus71 9 ! cavities ( ! abdom51 9 ! s-call$ om5tum1 9 ! kidneys & ! tubulat$ canals ( ! bones4 ,fat is also enclos$ 9 cells 7fatty globules7 9 milk4 ,x is e/abli%$1 )\t a d\bt1 t a great] portion ( ! fat :i* exi/s 9 ! animal k+dom orig9ates f ! vegetable k+dom1 = x is introduc$ into ! body cotemporane\sly ) ! prote9e comp\nds ( t k+dom4 ,a portion ( ! fat z well z wax is =m$ 9 ! animal organismus1 z %[n by a numb] ( obs]vations1 & 9 mo/ cases x is unque/ionable t ! non-nitrog5\s nutrim5ts1 z />*1 s]ve = ! =mation ( fat by a process ( deoxidation2 nev]!less1 ! =mation ( fat 9 ! animal body appe>s only to take place :5 ! sub/ances conta9+ />* ent] ! body simultane\sly ) fat4 ,if ! fat exi/+ 9 ! animal body is conta9$ 9 cellul> tissue1 its sep>ation may be simply effect$ by plac+ ! incis$ tissue 9 hot wat]4 ,! cells bur/ & ! fat collects itself on ! surface ( ! wat]4 ,if vegetable sub/ances conta9 fat 9 l>ge quantity1 z1 = example1 se$s1 x may be obta9$ by expression4 ,! dri$ se$s are bruis$ & express$ betwe5 ei!r cold or hot metallic plates4 ,olives are laid 9 heaps be=e expression2 :5 !y beg9 to f]m5t1 !y c be completely express$4 ,if animal & vegetable sub/ances conta9 only a little fat1 x mu/ be extract$ by e!r4 ,9 ! pure condition ! fats are mo/ly odorless & ta/eless2 :5 !y possess an odor1 x arises mo/ly f ! pres5ce ( small quantities ( volatile fatty acids1 z butyric acid1 capric acid1 c42 :i* becomes free ?r\gh ! decomposition ( _! oxide ( glycyl comb9ations4 ,?is ensues by ! pres5ce ( wat] & air ?r\gh a k9d ( f]m5tation1 & z x appe>s1 by ! pres5ce ( a nitrog5\s sub/ance4 ,! fats are insoluble 9 wat]1 &1 ) ! exception ( ca/or oil1 are tak5 up by cold alcohol 9 v small quantities1 h[ev]1 m 9 proportion z !y conta9 ole9e4 ,9 boil+ alcohol !y are dissolv$1 b are1 = ! mo/ "p1 aga9 sep>at$ on cool+1 p>ticul>ly ^? ri* 9 /e>9e4 ,all fats are tak5 up by e!r b ^? conta9+ /e>9e 9 ! smalle/ quantity4 ,_! specific gravities fluctuate betwe5 4#ia & 4#ic4 ,:5 heat$1 fats assume a d>k color1 & boil betwe5 #dhb deg4 & #egb deg4 ,fahr41 b ! boil+-po9t cont9u\sly rises1 :ile an un9t]rupt$ decomposition proce$s4 ,f oxide ( glycyl ensues acrol9e2 oleic acid af=ds a fatty acid1 & among ! decomposition products ( fats conta9+ /e>9e & m>g>9e are f\nd pure m>g>ic acid1 &1 at ! same "t1 "s hydro-c>bons are =m$4 ,:5 expos$ quickly to a high temp]ature1 fats are completely decompos$4 7,oil gas47 ,9 clos$ vessels ! pure fats und]go no *ange1 b1 plac$ 9 ?9 lay]s 9 ! air1 ! fats conta9+ ole9e & ol9e rapidly absorb oxyg5 "u ! /rong evolution ( heat1 :i* w inflame por\s bodies1 z cotton wool4 ,! pur] ! fats are ! m quickly _! oxidation results4 ,:5 ! fats conta9 slimy mat]ials1 ^! latt] c be de/roy$ ) a little oxide ( lead & wat]4 7,prep>ation = ! application ( v>ni%es47 ,! action ( nitric acid1 nitr\s acid1 *lor9e1 sulphuric acid1 c41 on fats is ! same z t ( ^! bodies on ! fatty acids4 ,! fatty oils dissolve sulphur 9 ! heat :i* is aga9 p>tly precipitat$ on cool+4 ,:5 sulphur is heat$ ) fatty oils1 namely1 ) l9se$ oil1 x dissolves by degrees1 & a ?ick d>k mass is =m$1 ! s-call$ balsam ( sulphur4 ,by rais+ ! heat1 a viol5t reaction ensues "u ! evolution ( sulphurett$ hydrog51 &1 at ! same "t1 an oil resembl+ oil ( g>lic volatilizes4 ,?is oil beg9s to boil at #afj deg4 ,fahr41 b its boil+-po9t rises cont9ually4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,p]fumes ,,z ,,prev5tives ,,( ,,m\ld9ess4 ,an int]e/+ pap] on ?is subject has be5 publi%$ by ,dr4 ,maccullo*4 ,we presume our read]s are aw>e t m\ld9ess is occasion$ by ! gr[? ( m9ute vegetables4 ,ink1 pa/e1 lea!r1 & se$s1 are ! sub/ances t mo/ frequ5tly suff] f x4 ,! effect ( cloves 9 pres]v+ ink is well kn[n2 any ( ! ess5tial oils answ] equally well4 ,lea!r may be kept free f m\ld by ! same sub/ances4 ,?us ,russian lea!r1 :i* is p]fum$ ) ! t> ( bir*1 nev] becomes m\ldy2 inde$ x prev5ts x f occurr+ 9 o!r bodies4 ,a few drops ( any ess5tial oil are suffici5t also to keep books entirely free f x4 ,= h>ness1 oil ( turp5t9e is recomm5d$4 ,bookb9d]s1 9 g5]al1 employ alum = pres]v+ _! pa/e2 b m\ld frequ5tly =ms on x4 ,%oemak]s' res9 is sometimes also us$ = ! same purpose2 b x is less effectual ?an oil ( turp5t9e4 ,! be/ prev5tives1 h[ev]1 are ! ess5tial oils1 ev5 9 small quantity1 z ^? ( pepp]m9t1 anise1 or cassia1 by :i* pa/e may be kept almo/ any l5g? ( "t2 inde$1 x has1 9 ?is way1 be5 pres]v$ = ye>s4 ,! pa/e recomm5d$ by ,dr4 ,maccullo* is made 9 ! usual way1 ) fl\r1 "s br[n sug>1 & a little corrosive sublimate2 ! sug> keep+ x flexible :5 dry1 & ! sublimate prev5t+ x f f]m5t+1 & f be+ attack$ by insects4 ,aft] x is made1 a few drops ( any ( ! ess5tial oils are add$4 ,pa/e made 9 ?is way dries :5 expos$ to ! air1 & may be us$ m]ely by wett+ x4 ,if requir$ to be kept always ready = use1 x ought to be put into cov]$ pots4 ,se$s may also be pres]v$ by ! ess5tial oils2 & ?is is ( great consequ5ce1 :5 !y are to be s5t to a di/ance4 ,( c\rse moi/ure mu/ be exclud$ z mu* z possible1 z ! oils or ottos prev5t only ! bad effects ( m\ld4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,fusel ,,oil4 ,,by ,w4 ,,ba/ick4 ,?is organic comp\nd 0 fir/ discov]$ by ,s*eele1 z "o ( ! di/illation products ( ! wort obta9$ f ! f]m5tation ( potatoes4 ,x has be5 subsequ5tly exam9$ by ,pelleti]1 ,dumas1 ,cah\rs1 & o!rs4 ,x is g5]ally n[ t]m$ ! hydrate ( ! oxide ( amyl1 f amyl be+ suppos$ to be its base or radical1 z cyanog5 is reg>d$ to be ! radical ( ano!r s]ies ( comp\nds4 ,x passes ov] t[>ds ! t]m9ation ( ! di/illation process 9 a :ite turbid fluid1 :i* consi/s ( a wat]y & alcoholic solution ( ! fusel oil4 ,! crude oil1 consi/+ ( ab\t "o-half ( its weight ( alcohol & wat]1 may be purifi$1 be+ %ak5 ) wat] & r$i/ill$1 ) ! previ\s addition ( *loride ( calcium4 ,:5 ! temp]ature ( ! cont5ts ( retort rea*es #bif deg4 ,fahr41 pure fusel oil di/ils ov]4 ,fusel oil is a colorless oily fluid1 :i* possesses at fir/ n an unagreeable odor1 b at la/ is v disgu/+1 produc+ oppression at ! *e/ & excit+ c\gh4 ,x has a %>p hot ta/e1 & burns ) a :ite blue flame4 ,x boils at #bif deg4 ,fahr41 & at temp]ature ( -#d deg4 ,fahr4 x becomes solid1 & =ms cry/als4 ,its specific gravity at #ei deg4 ,fahr4 is #j4habd1 & its =mula ,c#aj;,h#ab,o#b4 ,on pap] x produces a greasy /a91 :i* disappe>s by heat1 & :5 expos$ to ! action ( ! air x acquires an acid reaction4 ,fusel oil is slightly soluble 9 wat]1 to :i* x imp>ts its odor2 & soluble 9 all proportions 9 alcohol1 e!r1 volatile & fix$ oils1 & acetic acid4 ,x dissolves phosphorus1 sulphur1 & iod9e )\t any noticeable *ange1 & also mixes ) cau/ic soda & pota%4 ,x rapidly absorbs hydro*loric acid1 ) ! dis5gagem5t ( heat4 ,:5 mix$ ) conc5trat$ sulphuric acid1 ! mixture becomes ( a violet-r$ color1 & bisulphate ( amyloxide is =m$4 ,nitric acid & *lor9e decompose x4 ,by its di/illation ) anhydr\s phosphoric acid1 a fluid1 oily comb9ation ( hydrog5 & c>bon results4 ,by oxidation ) bi*romate ( pota% & sulphuric acid1 fusel oil yields val]ianic acid1 :i* is us$ 9 m$ic9e1 & apple-oil1 employ$ z a flavor+ +r$i5t 9 confection]y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,p9e-,,apple4 ,,by ,w4 ,,ba/ick4 ,! above ess5ce is1 z already kn[n1 butyric e!r m or less dilut$ ) alcohol2 to obta9 :i* pure1 on ! l>ge scale & economically1 ! foll[+ process is recomm5d$3-- ,dissolve #f lbs4 ( sug> & half an ounce ( t>t>ic acid1 9 #bf lbs4 ( boil+ wat]4 ,let ! solution /& = sev]al days2 !n add #h ounces ( putrid *eese brok5 up ) #c lbs4 ( skimm$ & curdl$ s\r milk & #c lbs4 ( levigat$ *alk4 ,! mixture %\ld be kept & /irr$ daily 9 a w>m place1 at ! temp]ature ( ab\t #ib deg4 ,fahr41 z long z gas is evolv$1 :i* is g5]ally ! case = five or six weeks4 ,! liquid ?us obta9$1 is mix$ ) an equal volume ( cold wat]1 & #h lbs4 ( cry/alliz$ c>bonate ( soda1 previ\sly dissolv$ 9 wat]1 add$4 ,x is !n filt]$ f ! precipitat$ c>bonate ( lime2 ! filtrate is to be evaporat$ d[n to #aj lbs41 :5 #e-a_/b lbs4 ( sulphuric acid1 previ\sly dilut$ ) an equal weight ( wat]1 are to be c>efully add$4 ,! butyric acid1 :i* sep>ates on ! surface ( ! liquid z a d>k-color$ oil1 is to be remov$1 & ! re/ ( ! liquid di/ill$2 ! di/illate is n[ neutraliz$ ) c>bonate ( soda1 & ! butyric acid sep>at$ z be=e1 ) sulphuric acid4 ,! :ole ( ! crude acid is to be rectifi$ ) ! addition ( an ounce ( sulphuric acid to e p\nd4 ,! di/illate is !n saturat$ ) fus$ *loride ( calcium1 & r$i/ill$4 ,! product w be ab\t #bh ounces ( pure butyric acid4 ,to prep>e ! butyric acid or ess5ce ( p9e-apple1 f ?is acid proce$ z foll[s3--,mix1 by weight1 ?ree p>ts ( butyric acid ) six p>ts ( alcohol1 & two p>ts ( sulphuric acid 9 a retort1 & submit ! :ole1 ) a suffici5t heat1 to a g5tle di/illation1 until ! fluid :i* passes ov] ceases to emit a fruity odor4 ,by treat+ ! di/illate ) *loride ( calcium1 & by its r$i/illation1 ! pure e!r may be obta9$4 ,! boil+-po9t ( butyric e!r is #bch deg4 ,fahr4 ,its specific gravity1 #j4ijd1 & its =mula1 ,c#ab;,h#ab,o#d1 or ,c#d;,h#e,o ,c#h;,h#g,o#c4 ,b5s*'s process1 above describ$1 = ! production ( butyric acid1 af=ds a rem>kable exemplification ( ! extraord9>y trans=mations t organic bodies und]go 9 contact ) f]m5t1 or by catalytic action4 ,:5 cane sug> is treat$ ) t>t>ic acid1 especially "u ! influ5ce ( heat1 x is conv]t$ into grape sug>4 ,?is grape sug>1 9 ! pres5ce ( decompos+ nitrog5\s sub/ances1 su* z *eese1 is trans=m$ 9 ! fir/ in/ance into lactic acid1 :i* comb9es ) ! lime ( ! *alk4 ,! acid ( ! lactate ( lime1 ?us produc$1 is by ! fur!r influ5ce ( ! f]m5t *ang$ into butyric acid4 ,h5ce1 butyrate ( lime is ! f9al result ( ! catalytic action 9 ! process we h "h recomm5d$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,crude ,,pel>gonate ,,( ,,e?yl-,,oxide 7,,ess5ce ,,( ,,qu9ce47 ,,by ,,dr4 ,r4 ,,wagn]4 ,x has be5 believ$1 until ! mo/ rec5t p]iod1 t ! peel ( qu9ces conta9s o5an?ylate ( e?yl-oxide4 ,new rese>*es1 h[ev]1 h l$ to ! supposition t ! odor\s pr9ciple ( qu9ces is d]iv$ f ! e!r ( pel>gonic acid4 ,9 my la/ rese>* on ! action ( nitric acid on oil ( rue1 ,i f\nd t besides ! fatty acids1 :i* ,g]h>dt _h already discov]$1 pel>gonic acid is =m$4 ,?is process may be advantage\sly employ$ = ! prep>ation ( crude pel>gonate ( e?yl-oxide1 :i*1 on acc\nt ( its extremely agreeable odor1 may be appli$ z a fruit ess5ce equally ) ^? prep>$ by ,dob]e9]1 ,h(mann1 & ,fehl+4 ,= ! prep>ation ( ! liquid1 :i* c be nam$ ! ess5ce ( qu9ce1 oil ( rue is treat$ ) d\ble its quantity ( v dilut$ nitric acid1 & ! mixture heat$ until x beg9s to boil4 ,aft] "s "t two lay]s are to be obs]v$ 9 ! liquid3 ! upp] "o is br[ni%1 & ! l[] "o consi/s ( ! products ( ! oxidation ( oil ( rue & ! excess ( nitric acid4 ,! l[] lay] is fre$ f ! great] "p ( its nitric acid by evaporation 9 a *loride ( z9c ba?4 ,! :ite flocks frequ5tly f\nd 9 ! acid liquid1 :i* are probably fatty acids1 are sep>at$ by filtration4 ,! filtrate is mix$ ) _s1 & long dige/$ 9 a g5tle heat1 by :i* a fluid is =m$1 :i* has ! agreeable odor ( qu9ce 9 ! highe/ degree1 & may be purifi$ by di/illation4 ,! spiritu\s solution ( pel>gonic e!r may also be pr(itably prep>$ f oleic acid1 accord+ to ,gottlieb's me?od4--,j\rnal fu] ,praktis*e ,*emie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,rum-,,e!r4 ,take ( black oxide ( manganese1 ( sulphuric acid1 ea* twelve p\nds2 ( alcohol1 tw5ty-six p\nds2 ( /rong acetic acid1 t5 p\nds4 ,mix1 & di/il twelve p9ts4 ,! e!r1 z above prep>$1 is an article ( comm]ce 9 ,au/ria1 be+ ! body to :i* rum owes its peculi> flavor4--,au/rian ,j\rnal ( ,ph>macy4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,ess5ces4 ,,by ,,fehl+4 ,p9e-apple ,oil is a solution ( "o "p ( butyric e!r1 9 eight or t5 p>ts ( alcohol4 ,= ! prep>ation ( ?is e!r1 pure butyric acid mu/ be fir/ obta9$ by ! f]m5tation ( sug>1 accord+ to ! me?od ( ,b5s*4 ,"o p\nd ( ?is acid is dissolv$ 9 "o p\nd ( /rong alcohol1 & mix$ ) f a qu>t] to half an ounce ( sulphuric acid2 ! mixture is heat$ = "s m9utes1 :]eby ! butyric e!r sep>ates z a light /ratum4 ,! :ole is mix$ ) half its volume ( wat]1 & ! upp] /ratum !n remov$2 ! heavy fluid is di/ill$1 by :i* m butyric e!r is obta9$4 ,! di/illate & ! remov$ oily liquid are %ak5 ) a little wat]1 ! light] portion ( ! liquid remov$1 :i* at la/1 by be+ %ak5 ) wat] & a little soda1 is fre$ f adh]+ acid4 ,= ! prep>ation ( ! ess5ce ( p9e-apple1 "o p\nd ( ?is e!r is dissolv$ 9 #h or #aj p\nds ( alcohol4 #bj or #be drops ( ?is solution is suffici5t to give to "o p\nd ( sug> a /rong ta/e ( p9e-apple1 if a little citric or t>t>ic acid has be5 add$4 ,pe>-oil4--,?is is an alcoholic solution ( acetate ( amyloxide1 & acetate ( e?yloxide4 ,= its prep>ation1 "o p\nd ( glacial acetic acid is add$ to an equal weight ( fusel-oil 7:i* has be5 prep>$ by be+ wa%$ ) soda & wat]1 & !n di/ill$ at a temp]ature betwe5 #bed deg4 & #bhd deg4 ,fahr471 & mix$ ) half a p\nd ( sulphuric acid4 ,! mixture is dige/$ = "s h\rs at a temp]ature ( #bed deg41 by :i* means acetate ( amyloxide sep>ates1 p>ticul>ly on ! addition ( "s wat]4 ,! crude acetate ( amyloxide obta9$ by sep>ation1 & by ! di/illation ( ! liquid to :i* ! wat] has be5 add$1 is f9ally purifi$ by be+ wa%$ ) soda & wat]4 ,fifte5 p>ts ( acetate ( amyloxide are dissolv$ ) half a "p ( acetic e!r 9 #ajj or #abj p>ts ( alcohol2 ?is is ! ess5ce ( pe>1 :i*1 :5 employ$ to flavor sug> or syrup1 to :i* a little citric or t>t>ic acid has be5 add$1 af=ds ! flavor ( b]gamot pe>s1 & a fruity1 refre%+ ta/e4 ,apple-oil is an alcoholic solution ( val]ianate ( amyloxide4 ,x is obta9$ impure1 z a by product1 :5 = ! prep>ation ( val]ianic acid1 fusel-oil is di/ill$ ) bi*romate ( pota% & sulphuric acid4 ,x is bett] prep>$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3--,= ! prep>ation ( val]ianic acid1 #a "p ( fusel-oil is mix$ gradually ) #c p>ts ( sulphuric acid1 & #b p>ts ( wat] add$4 ,a solution ( #b-a_/d p>ts ( bi*romate ( pota%1 ) #d-a_/b p>ts ( wat]1 is heat$ 9 a tubulat$ retort1 & into ?is fluid ! =m] mixture is gradually p\r$1 s t ! ebullition is n too rapid4 ,! di/illate is saturat$ ) c>bonate ( soda1 & w>m$1 :5 a solution ( #c p>ts ( cry/alliz$ c>bonate ( soda1 #b p>ts ( /rong sulphuric acid1 dilut$ ) an equal quantity ( wat]1 are add$4 ,! val]ianic acid sep>ates z an oily /ratum4 ,"o "p1 by weight1 ( pure fusel-oil is c>efully mix$ ) an equal weight ( sulphuric acid4 ,! cold solution is add$ to #a-a_/d p>ts ( ! above val]ianic acid2 ! mixture is w>m$ = "s m9utes 7n too long or too mu*7 9 a wat]-ba?1 & !n mix$ ) a little wat]1 by :i* means ! impure val]ianate ( amyloxide sep>ates1 :i* is wa%$ ) wat] & c>bonate ( soda4 ,= use z an ess5ce ( apples1 "o "p ( ?is val]ianate ( amyloxide is dissolv$ 9 #f or #h p>ts ( alcohol4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,volatile ,,oil ,,( ,,gaul!ria ,,procumb5s4 ,,by ,w4 ,,ba/ick4 ,! *emical hi/ory ( ?is oil is "o ( great importance & int]e/1 af=d+1 z x does1 "o ( ! examples :]e ! progress ( mod]n *emi/ry has succe$$ 9 produc+ artificially a complex organic body1 previ\sly only kn[n z ! result ( vital =ce4 ,?is volatile oil is obta9$ f ! w9t]-gre51 an ,am]ican %rub ( ! hea? family1 by di/illation4 ,:5 ?is plant is di/ill$1 at fir/ an oil passes ov] :i* consi/s ( ,c#aj;,h#h1 b :5 ! temp]ature rea*es #dfd deg4 ,fahr41 a pure oil di/ils into ! receiv]4 ,!re=e ! ess5tial oil ( ?is plant1 l _m o!rs1 consi/s ( two portions--"o a hydro-c>bon1 & ! o!r an oxyg5at$ comp\nd2 ?is latt] is ! *ief con/itu5t ( ! oil1 & t :i* is ( s mu* *emical int]e/1 f ! fact t x has be5 artificially prep>$4 ,x is t]m$1 :5 ?us prep>$1 ! spiroylate ( ! oxide ( me?yl1 & is obta9$ :5 two p>ts ( wood _s1 "o & a half p>ts ( spiroylic acid1 & "o "p ( sulphuric acid are di/ill$ toge!r4 ,x is a colorless liquid1 ( an agreeable aromatic odor & ta/e2 x dissolves slightly 9 wat]1 b 9 all proportions 9 e!r & alcohol2 x boils betwe5 #daa deg4 & #dce deg4 ,fahr41 & has a specific gravity ( #a4agc4 ,?is comp\nd expels c>bonic acid f its comb9ations1 & =ms a s]ies ( salts1 :i* conta9 "o atom ( base & "o atom ( spiroylate ( ! oxide ( me?yl4 ,x behaves !re=e z a conjugate acid4 ,its =mula is ,c#ad;,h#e,o#e ,c#b;,h#c,o4 ,! spiroylic acid may be sep>at$ f ! natural oil by treat+ x ) a conc5trat$ solution ( cau/ic pota% at a temp]ature ( #aac deg4 ,fahr41 :5 wood _s is =m$ & evaporates1 & ! solution conta9s ! spiroylate ( pota%1 f :i*1 :5 decompos$ ) sulphuric acid1 ! spiroylic acid sep>ates & subsides 9 ! fluid4 ,spiroylic acid is also =m$ by ! oxidation ( spiroylig5ic acid1 & :5 salig591 salic91 c\rmac91 or indigo1 is heat$ ) cau/ic pota%4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,! ,,application ,,( ,,organic ,,*emi/ry ,,to ,,p]fum]y4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,a4,w4 ,,h(mann1 ,pr(essor to ! ,royal ,college ( ,*emi/ry1 ,london4 ,cah\rs' excell5t rese>*es conc]n+ ! ess5tial oil ( ,gaul!ria procumb5s 7a ,nor? ,am]ican plant ( ! natural ord] ( ! ,eric9ae ( ,jussieu71 :i* admits ( s _m applications 9 p]fum]y1,i h op5$ a new field 9 ?is bran* ( indu/ry4 ,! introduction ( ?is oil among comp\nd e!rs mu/ necess>ily direct ! att5tion ( p]fum]s,j t[>ds ?is important bran* ( comp\nds1 ! numb] ( :i* is daily increas+ by ! labors ( ^? :o apply !mselves to organic *emi/ry4 ,! /rik+ simil>ity ( ! smell ( ^! e!rs to t ( fruit _h n escap$ ! obs]vation ( *emi/ry2 h[ev]1 x 0 res]v$ to practical m5 to discov] by :i* *oice & comb9ations x might be possible to imitate ! sc5t ( peculi> fruits to su* a nicety1 t makes x probable t ! sc5t ( ! fruit is ow+ to a natural comb9ation id5tical to t produc$ by art2 s mu* s1 z to enable ! *emi/ to produce f fruits ! said comb9ations1 provid$ he c\ld h at 8 disposal a suffici5t quantity to op]ate ^u4 ,! manufacture ( artificial aromatic oils = ! purpose ( p]fum]y,k is1 ( c\rse1 a rec5t bran* ( indu/ry2 nev]!less1 x has already fall5 into ! h&s ( sev]al di/ill]s1 :o produce suffici5t quantity to supply ! trade2 a fact1 :i* has n escap$ ! obs]vation ( ! ,jury at ! ,london ,exhibition4 ,9 visit+ ! /alls ( ,engli% & ,fr5* p]fum]s at ! ,cry/al ,palace1 we f\nd a great v>iety ( ^! *emical p]fumes1 ! applications ( :i* 7 at ! same "t practically illu/rat$ by confection]y flavor$ by !m4 ,h[ev]1 z mo/ ( ! samples ( ! oils s5t to ! ,exhibition 7 b small1 ,i 0 prev5t$1 9 _m cases1 f mak+ an accurate analysis ( !m4 ,! l>ge/ samples 7 ^? ( a comp\nd labell$ pe>-oil1 :i*1 by analysis1 ,i discov]$ to be an alcoholic solution ( pure acetate ( amyloxide4 ,n hav+ suffici5t quantity to purify x = combu/ion1 ,i dissolv$ x ) pota%1 by :i* free fusel-oil 0 sep>at$1 & det]m9$ ! acetic acid 9 ! =m ( a silv] salt4 #j4cjhj gram4 ( silv] salt #j4aiig gram4 ( silv]4 ,! p] c5tage ( silv] 9 acetate ( silv] is1 accord+ to ,!ory1 #fd4fh ,exp]im5t1 #fd4ee ,! acetate ( amyloxide1 :i*1 accord+ to ! usual way ( prep>+ x1 repres5ts "o "p sulphuric acid1 "o "p fusel-oil1 & two p>ts ( acetate ( pota%1 _h a /rik+ smell ( fruit1 b x acquir$ ! pleasant flavor ( ! j>gonelle pe> only aft] hav+ be5 dilut$ ) six times its volume ( _s ( w9e4 ,^u fur!r inquiry ,i le>n$ t consid]able quantities ( ?is oil are manufactur$ by "s di/ill]s1--f fifte5 to tw5ty p\nds weekly1--& sold to confection]s1 :o employ x *iefly 9 flavor+ pe>-drops1 :i* are no?+ else b b>ley-sug>1 flavor$ ) ?is oil4 ,i f\nd1 besides ! pe>-oil1 also an apple-oil1 :i*1 accord+ to my analysis1 is no?+ b val]ianate ( amyloxide4 ,e "o mu/ recollect ! insupportable smell ( rott5 apples :i* fills ! laboratory :il/ mak+ val]ianic acid4 ,by op]at+ ^u ?is raw di/illate produc$ ) dilut$ pota%1 val]ianic acid is remov$1 & an e!r rema9s beh9d1 :i*1 dilut$ 9 five or six times its volume ( spirits ( w9e1 is possess$ ( ! mo/ pleasant flavor ( apples4 ,! ess5tial oil,l mo/ abundant 9 ! ,exhibition 0 ! p9e-apple oil1 :i*1 z y well "k1 is no?+ else b ! butyrate ( e?yloxide4 ,ev5 9 ?is comb9ation1 l 9 ! =m]1 ! pleasant flavor or sc5t is only atta9$ by dilut+ ! e!r ) alcohol4 ,! butyric e!r :i* is employ$ 9 ,g]many to flavor bad rum1 is employ$ 9 ,engl& to flavor an acidulat$ dr9k call$ p9e-apple ale4 ,= ?is purpose !y g5]ally d n employ pure butyric acid1 b a product obta9$ by saponification ( butt]1 & subsequ5t di/illation ( ! soap ) conc5trat$ sulphuric acid & alcohol2 :i* product conta9s1 besides ! butyric e!r1 o!r e!rs1 b nev]!less c be us$ = flavor+ spirits4 ,! sample ,i analyz$ 0 pur]1 & appe>$ to h be5 made ) pure butyric e!r4 ,decompos$ ) pota% & *ang$ into silv] salt1 x gave #j4ddjd gram4 ( silv] salt #j4bdcg gram4 ( silv]4 ,! p] c5tage ( silv] 9 ! butyrate ( silv] is accord+ to ,!ory1 #ee4ch ,exp]im5t1 #ee4cc ,bo? ,engli% & ,fr5* exhibitors h also s5t samples ( cognac-oil & grape-oil1 :i* are employ$ to flavor ! common sorts ( br&y4 ,z ^! samples 7 v small1 ,i 0 prev5t$ f mak+ an accurate analysis4 ,h[ev]1 ,i am c]ta9 t ! grape-oil is a comb9ation ( amyl1 dilut$ ) mu* alcohol2 s9ce1 :5 act$ ^u ) conc5trat$ sulphuric acid1 & ! oil fre$ f alcohol by wa%+ x ) wat]1 x gave amylsulphuric acid1 :i* 0 id5tifi$ by ! analysis ( ! salt ( b>ytes4 #a4bfij gram4 ( amylsulphate ( b>ytes gave #j4ehbe gram4 ( sulphate ( b>ytes4 ,?is corresponds to #de4hb p] c5t4 ( sulphate ( b>ytes4 ,amylsulphate ( b>ytes1 cry/alliz$ ) two equival5ts ( wat]1 conta9s1 accord+ to ! analysis ( ,cah\rs & ,kekule1 #de4ie p] c5t4 ( sulphate ( b>ytes4 ,x is curi\s to f9d "h a body1 :i*1 on acc\nt ( its noxi\s smell1 is remov$ ) great c>e f spiritu\s liquors1 to be appli$ "u a diff]5t =m = ! purpose ( imp>t+ to !m a pleasant flavor4 ,i mu/ ne$s "h also m5tion ! artificial oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,:5 ,mits*]li*1 9 ! ye> #ahcd1 discov]$ ! nitrob5zol1 he w\ld n h dream$ t ?is product w\ld be manufactur$ = ! purpose ( p]fum]y1 &1 aft] tw5ty ye>s1 appe> 9 f9e labell$ samples at ! ,london ,exhibition4 ,x is true t1 ev5 at ! "t ( ! discov]y ( nitrob5zol1 he po9t$ out ! /rik+ simil>ity ( its smell to t ( ! oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,h[ev]1 at t "t1 ! only kn[n s\rces = obta9+ ?is body 7 ! compress$ gases & ! di/illation ( b5zoic acid1 consequ5tly ! enormity ( its price bani%$ any idea ( employ+ b5zol z a sub/itute = oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,h[ev]1 9 ! ye> #ahde1 ,i succe$$ by means ( ! anil9-reaction 9 asc]ta9+ ! exi/5ce ( b5zol 9 common coal-t> oil2 &1 9 ! ye> #ahdi1 ,c4,b4 ,mansfield prov$1 by c>eful exp]im5ts1 t b5zol c be won )\t difficulty 9 great quantity f coal-t> oil4 ,9 8 essay1 :i* conta9s _m int]e/+ details ab\t ! practical use ( b5zol1 he speaks likewise ( ! possibility ( soon obta9+ ! sweet-sc5t$ nitrob5zol 9 great quantity4 ,! ,exhibition has prov$ t 8 obs]vation has n be5 left unnotic$ by ! p]fum]s4 ,among ,fr5* p]fum]ies we h f\nd1 "u ! "n ( artificial oil ( bitt] almonds1 & "u ! /ill m poetical "n ( ess5ce de mirbane1 sev]al samples ( ess5tial oils1 :i* are no m nor less ?an nitrob5zol4 ,i 0 n able to obta9 accurate details ab\t ! ext5t ( ?is bran* ( manufacture1 :i* seems to be ( "s importance4 ,9 ,london1 ?is article is manufactur$ ) success4 ,! app>atus employ$ is t ( ,mansfield1 :i* is v simple4 ,x consi/s ( a l>ge glass worm1 ! upp] extremity ( :i* divides 9 two bran*es or tubes1 :i* are provid$ ) funnels4 ,?r\gh "o ( ^! funnels passes a /ream ( conc5trat$ nitric acid2 ! o!r is de/9$ z a receiv] ( b5zol1 :i*1 = ?is purpose1 requires n to be q pure2 at ! angle f :]e ! two tubes bran* out1 ! two bodies meet toge!r1 & in/antly ! *emical comb9ation takes place1 :i* cools suffici5tly by pass+ ?r\gh ! glass worm4 ,! product is aft]w>ds wa%$ ) wat]1 & "s dilut$ solution ( c>bonate ( soda2 x is !n ready = use4 ,not)/&+ ! great physical simil>ity betwe5 nitrob5zol & oil ( bitt] almonds1 !re is yet a slight diff]5ce 9 smell :i* c be detect$ by an exp]i5c$ nose4,m ,h[ev]1 nitrob5zol is v useful 9 sc5t+ soap1 & might be employ$ ) great advantage by confection]s & cooks1 p>ticul>ly on acc\nt ( its safety1 be+ entirely free f prussic acid4 ,!re 71 besides ! above1 sev]al o!r artificial oils2 !y all1 h[ev]1 7 m or less complicat$1 & 9 s small quantities1 t x 0 impossible to asc]ta9 _! exact nature1 & x 0 d\btful :e!r !y _h ! same orig9 z ! =m]4 ,! application ( organic *emi/ry to p]fum]y is q new2 x is probable t ! /udy ( all ! e!rs or e!real comb9ations already kn[n1 & ( ^? :i* ! +5uity ( ! *emi/ is daily discov]+1 w enl>ge ! sph]e ( _! practical applications4 ,! capryl-e!rs lately discov]$ by ,b\is are rem>kable = _! aromatic smells 7! acetate ( capryloxide is possess$ ( ! mo/ int5se & pleasant smell71 & !y promise a l>ge h>ve/ to ! manufactur]s ( p]fumes4--,annal5 d] ,*emie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,correspond5ce ,,f ,,! ,,j\rnal ,,( ,,! ,,society ,,( ,,arts4,n ,,*emi/ry ,,& ,,p]fum]y4 ,,sir1 ,:5 su* p]iodicals z ,h\sehold ,words & ! ,family ,h]ald conta9 sci5tific matt]s1 treat$ 9 a mann] to popul>ize sci5ce1 all real lov]s ( philosophy mu/ feel gratifi$2 a little fiction1 a little metaphor1 is expect$1 & is accept$ ) ! good int5tion ) :i* x is giv51 9 su* popul> pr9ts2 b :5 ! ,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,arts repr9ts quotations f su* s\rces1 )\t modify+ or correct+ _! expressions1 x conveys to its read]s a tissue ( fiction r too flimsy to be> a tru?ful analysis4,o ,9 ! article on ,*emi/ry & ,p]fum]y1 9 ,no4 #dg1 y quote t "s ( ! mo/ delicate p]fumes are n[ made by *emical artifice1 & n1 z ( old1 by di/ill+ !m f fl[]s4 ,n[1 sir1 ?is /atem5t conveys to ! public a v errone\s idea2 because ! sub/ances aft]w>ds spok5 ( are nam$ ess5ces ( fruit1 & n ess5ces ( fl[]s1 & ! ess5ces ( fruits nam$ 9 y\r article nev] are1 & nev] c be1 us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,?is ass]tion is bas$ on practical exp]i5ce4 ,! artificial ess5ces ( fruits are e!rs3 :5 p\r$ ^u a h&k]*ief1 & held up to ! nose1 !y act1 z is well kn[n1 l *lor(orm4 ,d>e a p]fum] sell a bottle ( su* a prep>ation to an unprotect$ female8 ,aga91 y quote t ! dra9+s ( c[-h\ses are ! ma9 s\rce to :i* ! manufactur] applies = ! production ( 8 mo/ delicate & admir$ p]fumes4 ,%ade ( ,mun*aus56 mu/ ,i refute ?is by call+ y\r att5tion to ! fact t 9 ! s\? ( ,france m ?an #hj1jjj p]sons are employ$1 directly & indirectly1 9 ! cultivation ( fl[]s1 & 9 ! extraction ( _! odors = ! use ( p]fum]s8 t ,italy cultivates fl[]s = ! same purpose to an ext5t employ+ l& z ext5sive z ! :ole ( "s ,engli% c\nties8 t tracts ( fl[]-f>ms exi/ 9 ! ,balkan1 9 ,turkey1 m ext5sive ?an ! :ole ( ,york%ire8 ,our own fl[]-f>ms at ,mit*am1 9 ,surrey1 ne$ n be m5tion$ 9 comp>ison1 al?\gh important4 ,^!1 sir1 are ! ma9 s\rces ( p]fumes4 ,!re are o!r s\rces at ,?ibet1 ,tonqu91 & 9 ! ,we/ ,indies2 b en\gh has be5 said1 ,i hope1 to refute ! c[-h\se /ory4 ,?is /ory is f\nd$ on ! fact t ,b5zoic acid c be obta9$ f ! dra9+ ( /ables1 & t ,b5zoic acid has r a pleasant odor4 ,"s ( ! l>ge/ :olesale p]fum]s use five or six p\nds ( gum b5zo9 p] annum1 b none use ! b5zoic acid4 ,! loz5ge-mak]s consume ! mo/ ( ?is article :5 prep>$ = comm]cial purposes2 z also ! fruit ess5ces4 ,^? ( y\r read]s int]e/$ 9 :at really is us$ 9 p]fum]y1 are ref]r$ to ! la/ six numb]s ( ! ,annals ( ,ph>macy & ,practical ,*emi/ry1 article ,p]fum]y4 ,y\r ob$i5t s]vant1 ,,septimus ,,piesse4 ,,*emi/ry ,,& ,,p]fum]y4,p ,,sir1 ,! discussion ab\t *emi/ry & p]fum]y1 9 reality am\nts to ?is3 ,mr4 ,septimus ,piesse conf9es ! t]m p]fum]y to su* ?+s z ,eau de ,cologne1 c42 p]fum$ soaps1 groc]ies1 c41 he does n appe> to class z p]fum]y4 ,n[ ! artificial sc5ts are z yet *iefly us$ = ! latt] sub/ances1 :i* 9 common language1 &1 ,i %\ld say1 9 a p]fum]'s nom5clature also1 w\ld be includ$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,! au?ority = c[s' ur9e be+ us$ = p]fum]y is to be f\nd 9 a little ,fr5* "w call$1 ,i believe1 ,la ,*imie de l',odorat 9 :i* a full description is giv5 ( ! collection ( fre% ur9e & its application to ?is purpose4 ,i ne$ sc>cely say1 t x is ! b5zoic acid ( ! ur9e :i* is ! odorif]\s pr9ciple4 ,y\r ob$i5t s]vant1 ,a ,,p]fum]4 ,:5 b5zoic acid is prep>$ by any ( ! wet processes1 x is free f ! fragrant volatile oil :i* accompanies x :5 prep>$ by sublimation f ! res91 & to :i* oil ! acid ( comm]ce owes its peculi> odor4 ,?is fact completely nullifies ! above ass]tion4--,,septimus ,,piesse4 ,,*emi/ry ,,& ,,p]fum]y4,q ,sir1 ,if ! au?or ( ! ,lett] on ,*emi/ry & ,p]fum]y1 publi%$ 9 ,no4 #ej ( y\r ,j\rnal1 & int5d$ z a reply to m9e--?\gh none 0 ne$$--:i* appe>$ 9 ,no4 #di1 really be a p]fum]1 z 8 signature implies1 he w\ld "k t ,i c\ld n1 ?\gh ev] s incl9$1 conf9e ! t]m p]fum]y to v>i\s odorif]\s sub/ances1 & exclude sc5t$ soaps2 because he w\ld be aw>e t "o-?ird ( ! returns ( e manufactur+ p]fum] is d]iv$ f p]fum$ soap4 ,i d h[ev] emphatically exclude f ! t]m p]fum]y1 groc]ies1 c41 ! et caet]a mean+1 ,i presume1 confection]y1 because p]fum]y has to d ) "o ( ! s5ses1 ,,smell+1 :ile groc]ies1 c41 are di/+ui%able by ano!r1 ,,ta/e2 & _h n our physical faculties cle>ly made ! di/9ction1 comm]ce & manufactures w\ld h def9$ !m3 ,i !re=e repeat1 t ! artificial ess5ces ( fruits are n us$ 9 p]fum]y1 z /at$ 9 ,no4 #dg1 f ! quot$ au?orities4 ,if any man c d5y ?is ass]tion1 let him n[ d s1 or =ev] aft] hold 8 peace1 at lea/ ^u ?is subject4 ,! ,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,arts is n a m$ium ( m]e controv]sy4 ,if a /atem5t be made 9 error1 let tru? correct x1 :i*1 if ga9-say$1 x %\ld be done1 n "u ! veil ( an anonym\s correspond5t1 b ) a "n to support ! ass]tion4 ,sci5ce has to deal ) tangible facts & figures1 to ! political alone belongs ! anonym\s ink-spill]4 ,i am1 sir1 y\rs fai?fully1 ,,septimus ,,piesse4 #db ,*apel ,/reet1 ,edgw>e ,road4 ,if ! ^w flavor _h be5 us$ by ! v>i\s au?ors :o h writt5 ^u ?is subject1 9 place ( ! ^w p]fume1 ! dissem9ation ( an errone\s idea w\ld h be5 prev5t$3 ! ^w p]fume1 appli$ to pe>-oil1 p9e-apple oil1 c41 implies1 & ! g5]al t5or ( ! rem>ks ( ! writ]s leads ! read] to inf]1 t ^! sub/ances are us$ by p]fum]s1 :o n only d n1 b _c use !m 9 _! trade4 ,b = flavor+ nect>1 loz5ges1 sweetmeats1 c41 ^! e!rs1 or oils z ! writ]s t]m !m1 are ext5sively us$1 & q 9 accordance ) ass]tions ( ,h(fman1 ,playfair1 ,fehl+1 & ,ba/ick4 ,h[ev]1 ! glori\s a*ievem5ts ( mod]n *emi/ry h n lo/ any?+ by ?is misapplication ( a trade t]m4--,,septimus ,,piesse4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ottos ,,f ,,plants4 ,,quantities ,,( ,,ottos1 ,,o!rwise ,,ess5tial ,,oils1 ,,yield$ ,,by ,,v>i\s ,,plants4 ,p\nds ,( otto4 ,orange-peel1 #aj yield ab\t #a oz4 ,dry m>joram h]b1 #bj #c oz4 ,fre% #ajj #c oz4 ,pepp]m9t1 #ajj #c to #d oz4 ,dry #be #c to #d oz4 ,origanum1 #be #b to #c oz4 ,?yme1 #bj #a to #a-a_/b oz4 ,calamus1 #be #c to #d oz4 ,anise-se$1 #be #i to #ab oz4 ,c>away1 #be #af oz4 ,cloves1 #a #b-a_/b oz4 ,c9namon1 #be #c oz4 ,cassia1 #be #c oz4 ,c$>-wood1 #bh #d oz4 ,mace1 #b #c oz4 ,nutmegs1 #b #c to #d oz4 ,fre% balm h]b1 #fj #a to #a-a_/b oz4 ,cake ( bitt] almond1 #ad #a oz4 ,sweet flag root1 #aab #af oz4 ,g]anium leaves1 #aab #b oz4 ,lav5d] fl[]s1 #aab #cj to #cb oz4 ,myrtle leaves1 #aab #e oz4 ,pat*\ly h]b1 #aab #bh oz4 ,prov9ce rose blossom1 #aab #a-a_/b to #b dra*ms4 ,rhodium-wood1 #aab #c to #d oz4 ,santal-wood1 #aab #cj oz4 ,vitiv]t or kus-kus-root1 #aab #ae oz4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,weights ,,& ,,measures4 ,,fr5* ,,weights ,,& ,,measures ,,comp>$ ,,) ,,engli%4 ,imp]ial ,troy ,kilo- ,lbs4 ,litres4 ,gallons4 ,grammes4 ,gra9s4 grammes4 ,avoird4 #a1 #j4bbjaj #a1 #ae4dcd #a1 #b4bjdhf #b1 #j4ddjai #b1 #cj4hfh #b1 #d4djiga #c1 #j4ffjbi #c1 #df4cjb #c1 #f4fadeg #d1 #j4hhjci #d1 #fa4gcf #d1 #h4haidc #e1 #a4ajjdh #e1 #gg4agj #e1 #aa4jbdbi #f1 #a4cbjeh #f1 #ib4fjd #f1 #ac4bbiad #g1 #a4edjfh #g1 #ajh4jch #g1 #ae4dcdjj #h1 #a4gfjgg #h1 #abc4dgb #h1 #ag4fchhf #i1 #a4ihjhg #i1 #ach4ijf #i1 #ai4hdcga ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,engli% ,,weights ,,& ,,measures ,,comp>$ ,,) ,,fr5*4 ,imp4 ,troy ,lbs4 ,kilo- ,gallons4 ,litres4 ,gra9s4 ,grammes4 ,avoird4 grammes4 #a1 #d4edcdf #a1 #j4jfdgi #a1 #j4deced #b1 #i4jhfib #b1 #j4abieh #b1 #j4ijgji #c1 #ac4fcjch #c1 #j4aidch #c1 #a4cfjfc #d1 #ah4agchd #d1 #j4beiag #d1 #a4hadah #e1 #bb4gagcj #e1 #j4cbcif #e1 #b4bfggb #f1 #bg4bfjgf #f1 #j4chhge #f1 #b4gbabf #g1 #ca4hjdbb #g1 #j4deced #g1 #c4agdha #h1 #cf4cdgfh #h1 #j4eahcd #h1 #c4fbhce #i1 #dj4hiaad #i1 #j4ehcac #i1 #d4jhaij ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,footnotes3 ,a ,bro!r ( ! ,au?or4 ,b ,see ,app5dix1 ,b5zoic ,acid4 ,c ,see ,inc5se4 ,d ,! duty on eau de ,cologne is n[1 accord+ to ! la/ t>iff1 #h;d4 p] flacon ( #d oz41 or #bjs4 p] gallon4 ,e ,simple syrup consi/s ( #c lbs4 ( loaf sug>1 boil$ = a m9ute 9 "o p9t1 imp]ial1 ( di/ill$ wat]4 ,f ,! imp]ial measure only is recogniz$ among p]fum]s4 ,g ,annals ( ,ph>macy1 vol4 ii1 pp4 #afh1 #afi4 ,h ,! deposit is ne>ly insoluble 9 wat]1 is acid & a/r+5t to ! ta/e1 gives an acid reaction ) litmus4 ,_s ( w9e dissolves out a small portion1 :i*1 on evaporation1 leaves a ?ick oleo-res9\s sub/ance1 hav+ a rancid smell4 ,e!r leaves a pleasant-smell+ res91 some:at resembl+ camphor4 ,! rema9d] is ne>ly insoluble 9 liq4 ammoniae1 liq4 potassae1 m soluble 9 nitric acid1 & well des]ves to be fur!r exam9$4 ,i ,qy4 ,confection]y8 ,j ,qy4 ,confection]s8 ,k ,confection]y4 ,l ,! writ] means e!r6 ,m ,see ,almond4 ,n ,no4 #di4 ,o ,if our ,correspond5t _h c>efully read ! article he s fi]cely attacks1 he w\ld h se5 t ! au?orities 7 ,dr4 ,lyon ,playfair's ,lecture1 & ,pr(esssor ,fehl+1 9 ! ,wurtemb]g ,j\rnal ( ,indu/ry4--,,ed4 ,p ,no4 #ej4 ,q ,no4 #eb4