,transcriber's note3 ,footnotes moved to end of text ,the ,art ,,of ,,perfumery1 ,,and ,,method ,,of ,,obtaining ,,the ,,odors ,,of ,,plants4 ,illustration3 ,,drying ,,house ,,for ,,herbs4 ,from the rafters of the roof of the ,drying ,house are suspended in bunches all the herbs that the grower cultivates4 ,to accelerate the desiccation of rose leaves and other petals1 the ,drying ,house is fitted up with large cupboards1 which are slightly warmed with a convolving flue1 heated from a fire below4 ,the flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas stretched upon a frame rack1 being not less than twelve feet long by four feet wide4 ,when charged they are placed on shelves in the warm cupboards till dry4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,perfumery1 ,,and ,,method ,,of ,,obtaining ,,the ,,odors ,,of ,,plants1 ,,with ,,instructions ,,for ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,perfumes ,,for ,,the ,,handkerchief1 ,,scented ,,powders1 ,,odorous ,,vinegars1 ,,dentifrices1 ,,pomatums1 ,,cosmetiques1 ,,perfumed ,,soap1 ,,etc4 ,,with ,,an ,,appendix ,,on ,,the ,,colors ,,of ,,flowers1 ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,essences1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 ,illustration ,,by ,g4,w4 ,,septimus ,,piesse1 ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,odors ,,of ,,flowers1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,philadelphia3 ,,lindsay ,,and ,,blakiston4 #aheg4 ,,printed ,,by ,c4 ,,sherman ,,son1 #ai ,st4 ,james ,street4 ,preface4 ,by universal consent1 the physical faculties of man have been divided into five senses1--seeing1 hearing1 touching1 tasting1 and smelling4 ,it is of matter pertaining to the faculty of ,smelling that this book mainly treats4 ,of the five senses1 that of smelling is the least valued1 and1 as a consequence1 is the least tutored2 but we must not conclude from this1 our own act1 that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare and happiness4 ,by neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve1 we are constantly led to breathe impure air1 and thus poison the body by neglecting the warning given at the gate of the lungs4 ,persons who use perfumes are more sensitive to the presence of a vitiated atmosphere than those who consider the faculty of smelling as an almost useless gift4 ,in the early ages of the world the use of perfumes was in constant practice1 and it had the high sanction of ,scriptural authority4 ,the patrons of perfumery have always been considered the most civilized and refined people of the earth4 ,if refinement consists in knowing how to enjoy the faculties which we possess1 then must we learn not only how to distinguish the harmony of color and form1 in order to please the sight1 the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear2 the comfort of appropriate fabrics to cover the body1 and to please the touch1 but the smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself with the odoriferous products of the garden and the forest4 ,pathologically considered1 the use of perfumes is in the highest degree prophylactic2 the refreshing qualities of the citrine odors to an invalid is well known4 ,health has often been restored when life and death trembled in the balance1 by the mere sprinkling of essence of cedrat in a sick chamber4 ,the commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance to the wealth of nations4 ,but1 vast as is the consumption of perfumes by the people under the rule of the ,british ,empire1 little has been done in ,england towards the establishment of flower-farms1 or the production of the raw odorous substances in demand by the manufacturing perfumers of ,britain2 consequently nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries4 ,however1 ,i have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the attention of the ,society of ,arts1 and favorable results will doubtless follow4 ,much of the waste land in ,england1 and especially in ,ireland1 could be very profitably employed if cultivated with odor-bearing plants4 ,the climate of some of the ,british colonies especially fits them for the production of odors from flowers that require elevated temperature to bring them to perfection4 ,but for the lamented death of ,mr4 ,charles ,piesse1,a ,colonial ,secretary for ,western ,australia1 ,i have every reason to believe that flower-farms would have been established in that colony long ere the publication of this work4 ,though thus personally frustrated in adapting a new and useful description of labor to ,british enterprise1 ,i am no less sanguine of the final result in other hands4 ,mr4 ,kemble1 of ,jamaica1 has recently sent to ,england some fine samples of ,oil of ,behn4 ,the ,moringa1 from which it is produced1 has been successfully cultivated by him4 ,the ,oil of ,behn1 being a perfectly inodorous fat oil1 is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of flowers by the maceration process4 ,at no distant period ,i hope to see1 either at the ,crystal ,palace1 ,sydenham1 at the ,royal ,botanical ,gardens1 ,kew1 or elsewhere1 a place to illustrate the commercial use of flowers--eye-lectures on the methods of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses4 ,the horticulturists of ,england1 being generally unacquainted with the methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate1 entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income4 ,for many ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the ,cornish miners working the tin streams2 how much wealth was thus cast away by ignorance we know not1 but there is a perfect parallel between the old miners and the modern gardeners4 ,many readers of the ,gardeners' ,chronicle and of the ,annals of ,pharmacy and ,chemistry will recognize in the following pages much matter that has already passed under their eyes4 ,to be of the service intended1 such matter must however have a book form2 ,i have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals all that ,i considered might be useful to the reader4 ,to ,sir ,wm4 ,hooker1 ,dr4 ,lindley1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,dickinson1 and ,mr4 ,w4 ,bastick1 ,i respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely given whenever ,i have had occasion to seek their advice4 ,contents4 ,,preface ,,section ,i4 ,,introduction ,,and ,,history4 ,perfumes in use from the ,earliest ,periods--,origin lost in the ,depth of its ,antiquity--,possibly derived from ,religious ,observances--,incense or ,frankincense burned in ,honor of the ,divinities--,early ,christians put to ,death for refusing to offer ,incense to ,idols--,use of perfumes by the ,greeks and ,romans--,pliny and ,seneca observe that some of the luxurious ,people scent themselves ,three ,times a ,day--,use of ,incense in the ,romish ,church--,scriptural ,authority for the use of ,perfume--,composition of the ,holy ,perfume--,the ,prophet's ,simile--,st4 ,ephraem's ,will--,fragrant ,tapers--,constantine provides fragrant ,oil to burn at the ,altars--,frangipanni--,trade in the ,east in ,perfume ,drugs--,the ,art of ,perfumery of little ,distinction in ,england--,solly's admirable ,remarks on ,trade ,secrets--,british ,horticulturists neglect to collect the ,fragrance of the ,flowers they cultivate--,the ,south of ,france the principal ,seat of the ,art--,england noted for ,lavender--,some ,plants yield more than one ,perfume--,odor of ,plants owing to a peculiar ,principle known as ,essential ,oil or ,otto ,,section ,,ii4 ,consumption of ,perfumery--,methods of obtaining the ,odors3--,expression1 ,distillation1 ,maceration1 ,absorption ,,section ,,iii4 ,steam-,still--,macerating ,pan--,ottos exhibited at the ,crystal ,palace of #ahea--,,simple ,,extracts3--,allspice1 ,almond1 ,artificial ,otto of ,almonds1 ,anise1 ,balm1 ,balsams1 ,bay1 ,bergamot1 ,benzoin1 ,caraway1 ,cascarilla1 ,cassia1 ,cassie1 ,cedar1 ,cedrat1 ,cinnamon1 ,citron1 ,citronella1 ,clove1 ,dill1 ,eglantine or ,sweet ,brier1 ,elder1 ,fennel1 ,flag1 ,geranium1 ,heliotrope1 ,honeysuckle1 ,hovenia1 ,jasmine1 ,jonquil1 ,laurel1 ,lavender1 ,lemon-grass1 ,lilac1 ,lily1 ,mace1 ,magnolia1 ,marjoram1 ,meadow-sweet1 ,melissa1 ,mignonette1 ,miribane1 ,mint1 ,myrtle1 ,neroli1 ,nutmeg1 ,olibanum1 ,orange1 ,orris1 ,palm1 ,patchouly1 ,sweet ,pea 7,theory of ,odors71 ,pineapple1 ,pink1 ,rhodium 7,rose yields two ,odors71 ,rosemary1 ,sage1 ,santal1 ,sassafras1 ,spike1 ,storax1 ,syringa1 ,thyme1 ,tonquin1 ,tuberose1 ,vanilla1 ,verbena or ,vervain1 ,violet1 ,vitivert1 ,volkameria1 ,wallflower1 ,winter-green--,duty on ,essential ,oils--,quantity imported--,statistics1 c4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,,animal ,,perfumes4 ,ambergris--,civet--,musk ,,section ,v4 ,,smelling ,,salts3--,ammonia1 ,preston ,salts1 ,inexhaustible ,salts1 ,eau de ,luce1 ,sal ,volatile ,,acetic ,,acid ,,and ,,its ,,use ,,in ,,perfumery4--,aromatic ,vinegar1 ,henry's ,vinegar1 ,vinaigre a la ,rose1 ,four ,thieves' ,vinegar1 ,hygienic ,vinegar1 ,violet ,vinegar1 ,toilet ,vinegar1 ,vinaigre de ,cologne ,,section ,,vi4 ,,bouquets ,,and ,,nosegays4 ,proposed ,use of the ,term ,otto to denote the odoriferous ,principle of ,plants ,,compound ,,odors3--,the ,alhambra ,perfume--,the ,bosphorus ,bouquet--,bouquet d',amour--,bouquet des ,fleurs du ,val d',andorre--,buckingham ,palace ,bouquet--,delices--,the ,court ,nosegay--,eau de ,chypre--,the ,empress ,eugenie's ,nosegay--,esterhazy--,ess ,bouquet--,eau de ,cologne4 7,french and ,english ,spirit47 ,flowers of ,erin--,royal ,hunt ,bouquet--,extract of ,flowers--,the ,guards' ,bouquet--,italian ,nosegay--,english ,jockey ,club--,french ,jockey ,club4 7,difference of the ,odor of ,english and ,french ,perfumes due to the ,spirit of ,grape and ,corn ,spirit47 ,a ,japanese ,perfume--,the ,kew ,garden ,nosegay--,millefleurs--,millefleurs et ,lavender--,delcroix's ,lavender--,marechale--,mousselaine--,bo uquet de ,montpellier--,caprice de la ,mode--,may ,flowers--,neptune1 or ,naval ,nosegay--,bouquet of all ,nations--,isle of ,wight ,bouquet--,bouquet du ,roi--,bouquet de la ,reine ,victoria--,rondeletia4 7,odors properly blended produce new ,fragrances47 ,bouquet ,royal--,suave--,spring ,flowers--,tulip ,nosegay--,the ,wood ,violet--,windsor ,castle ,bouquet--,yacht ,club ,nosegay ,,section ,,vii4 ,the ancient ,perfumes were only odoriferous ,gums--,abstaining from the ,use of ,perfumes a ,sign of ,humiliation--,the ,vase at ,alnwick ,castle--,sachet ,powders--,sachet au ,chypre--,sachet a la ,frangipanne--,heliotrope ,sachet--,lavender ,sachet--,sachet a la ,marechale--,mousselaine--,millefleur--, portugal ,sachet--,patchouly ,sachet--,pot ,pourri--,olla ,podrida--,rose ,sachet--,santal-wood ,sachet--,sachet 7without a name7--,vervain ,sachet--,vitivert--,violet ,sachet--,perfumed ,leather--,russia ,leather--,peau d',espagne--,perfumed ,letter ,paper--,perfumed ,book-markers--,cassolettes1 and ,printaniers ,pastils--,the ,censer--,vase in the ,british ,museum--,method of using the ,censer--,incense for ,altar ,service--,yellow ,pastils--,dr4 ,paris's ,pastils--,perfumer's ,pastils--,piesse's ,pastils--,fumigation--,the ,perfume ,lamp--,incandescent ,platinum--,eau a ,bruler--,eau pour ,bruler--,fumigating ,paper--,perfuming ,spills--,odoriferous ,lighters ,,section ,,viii4 ,,perfumed ,,soap4 ,perfumed ,soap--,ancient ,origin of ,soap--,early ,records of the ,soap ,trade in ,england--,perfumers not ,soap ,makers--,remelting--,primary ,soaps--,curd ,soap--,oil ,soap--,castile ,soap--,marine ,soap--,yellow ,soap--,palm ,soap--,excise ,duty on ,soap--,fig ,soft ,soap--,naples ,soft ,soap--,the remelting ,process--,soap cutting--,soap stamping--,scented ,soaps ,almond ,soap--,camphor ,soap--,honey ,soap--,white ,windsor ,soap--,brown ,windsor ,soap--,sand ,soap--,fuller's ,earth ,soap--,scenting ,soaps ,hot--,scenting ,soaps ,cold--,colored ,soaps3--,red1 ,green1 ,blue1 ,brown ,soaps--,otto of ,rose ,soap--,tonquin ,musk ,soap--,orange-,flower ,soap--,santal-wood ,soap--,spermaceti ,soap--,citron ,soap--,frangipanne ,soap--,patchouly ,soap--,soft or ,potash ,soaps--,saponaceous ,cream of ,almonds--,soap ,powders--,rypophagon ,soap--,ambrosial ,cream--,transparent soft ,soap--,transparent hard ,soap--,medicated ,soaps--,juniper ,tar ,soap--,iodine ,soap--,sulphur ,soap--,bromine ,soap--,creosote ,soap--,mercurial ,soap--,croton ,oil ,soap--,their ,use in ,cutaneous ,diseases ,,section ,,ix4 ,,emulsines4 ,form ,emulsions or ,milks when mixed with ,water--,prone to ,change--,amandine--,olivine--,honey and ,almond ,paste--,pure ,almond ,paste--,almond ,meal--,pistachio ,nut ,meal--,jasmine ,emulsion--,violet ,emulsion ,,section ,x4 ,,milks ,,or ,,emulsions4 ,liebig's notice of ,almond ,milk--,milk of ,roses--,milk of ,almonds--,milk of ,elder--,milk of ,dandelion--,milk of ,cucumber--,essence of ,cucumber--,milk of ,pistachio ,nuts--,lait ,virginal--,extract of ,elder ,flowers ,,section ,,xi4 ,,cold ,,cream4 ,manipulation--,cold ,cream of ,almonds--,violet ,cold ,cream--,imitation ,violet ,cold ,cream--,cold ,cream of various ,flowers--,camphor ,cold ,cream--,cucumber ,cold ,cream--,piver's ,pomade of ,cucumber--,pomade ,divine--,almond ,balls--,camphor ,balls--,camphor ,paste--,glycerine ,balsam--,rose ,lip ,salve--,white ,lip ,salve--,common ,lip ,salve ,,section ,,xii4 ,,pomades ,,and ,,oils4 ,pomatum1 as its name implies1 originally made with ,apples--,scentless ,grease--,enfleurage and ,maceration process--,acacia1 or ,cassie ,pomade--,benzoin ,pomade and ,oil--,vanilla ,oil and ,pomade--,pomade called ,bear's ,grease--,circassian ,cream--,balsam of ,flowers--,crystallized ,oils--,castor ,oil ,pomatum--,balsam of ,neroli--,marrow ,cream--,marrow ,pomatum--,violet ,pomatum--,pomade ,double1 ,millefleurs--,pomade a la ,heliotrope--,huile ,antique--,philocome--,pomade ,hongroise--,hard or ,stick ,pomatums--,black and ,brown ,cosmetique ,,section ,,xiii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,depilatories4 ,painting the ,face universal among the ,women of ,egypt--,kohhl1 the ,smoke of ,gum ,labdanum1 used by the ,girls of ,greece to color the ,lashes and ,sockets of the ,eye--,turkish ,hair ,dye--,rastikopetra ,dye--,litharge ,dye--,silver ,dye--,hair ,dyes1 with ,mordant--,inodorous ,dye--,brown and ,black ,hair ,dye--,liquid ,lead ,dye--,depilatory1 ,rusma ,,section ,,xiv4 ,,absorbent ,,powders4 ,violet ,powder--,rose ,face ,powder--,perle ,powder--,liquid ,blanc for ,theatrical ,use--,calcined ,talc--,rouge and ,red ,paints--,bloom of ,roses--,carmine ,toilet ,rouge--,carthamus ,flowers--,pink ,saucers--,crepon ,rouge ,,section ,,xv4 ,,tooth ,,powders ,,and ,,mouth ,,washes4 ,mialhi's ,tooth ,powder--,camphorated ,chalk--,quinine ,tooth ,powder--,prepared ,charcoal--,peruvian ,bark ,powder--,homoeopathic ,chalk--,cuttle-,fish ,powder--,borax and ,myrrh--,farina ,piesse's ,dentifrice--,rose ,tooth ,powder--,opiate ,paste--,violet ,mouth ,wash--,eau ,botot--,botanic ,styptic--,tincture of ,myrrh and ,borax--,myrrh with ,eau de ,cologne--,camphorated ,eau de ,cologne ,,section ,,xvi4 ,,hair ,,washes4 ,rosemary ,hair ,wash--,athenian ,water--,vegetable or ,botanic ,hair ,wash--,astringent ,extract of ,roses and ,rosemary--,saponaceous ,wash--,egg ,julep--,bandolines--,rose and ,almond ,bandoline ,contents of ,appendix4 ,manufacture of ,glycerine ,test for ,alcohol in ,essential ,oils ,detection of ,poppy and other drying ,oils in ,almond and ,olive ,oil ,coloring matter of ,volatile ,oils ,artificial ,preparation of ,otto of ,cinnamon ,detection of ,spike ,oil and ,turpentine in ,lavender ,oil ,the ,orange ,flower ,waters of ,commerce ,concentrated ,elder ,water ,,arnall on ,spirits of ,wine ,purification of ,spirits by ,filtration ,,cobb on ,otto of ,lemons ,,bastick on ,benzoic ,acid ,on the ,coloring matters of ,flowers ,bleaching ,bees' ,wax ,chemical ,examination of ,naples ,soap ,manufacture of ,soap ,how to ,ascertain the ,commercial ,value of ,soap ,on the ,natural ,fats ,perfumes as ,preventives of ,mouldiness ,,bastick on ,fusel ,oil ,,bastick',s ,pine ,apple ,flavor ,,wagner',s ,essence of ,quince ,preparation of ,rum-ether ,artificial ,fruit essences ,volatile ,oil of ,gaultheria ,application of ,chemistry to ,perfumery ,correspondence from the ,journal of the ,society of ,arts ,quantities of ,ottos yielded by various ,plants ,french and ,english ,weights and ,measures compared ,illustrations4 ,drying ,house1 ,mitcham1 ,surrey1 7,frontispiece47 ,smelling1 from the ,dresden ,gallery1 7,vignette47 ,pipette1 to draw off small ,portions of ,otto from ,water ,tap ,funnel for separating ,ottos from ,waters1 and ,spirits from ,oil ,the ,almond ,styrax ,benzoin ,cassie ,buds ,the ,clove ,the ,jasmine ,the ,orange ,the ,patchouly ,plant ,santal-,wood ,tonquin ,vanilla ,vitivert ,civet ,cat ,musk ,pod ,musk ,deer ,the ,censer ,perfume ,lamp ,slab ,soap ,gauge ,barring ,gauge ,squaring ,gauge ,soap ,scoops ,soap ,press ,moulds ,soap ,plane ,oil ,runner ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,,introduction ,,and ,,history4 ,,section ,i4 ,by ,nature's swift and secret working hand ,the garden glows1 and fills the liberal air ,with lavish odors4 ,there let me draw ,ethereal soul1 there drink reviving gales1 ,profusely breathing from the spicy groves ,and vales of fragrance4--,,thomson4 ,among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of flowers1 that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands pre-eminent4 ,it is proved from the oldest records1 that perfumes have been in use from the earliest periods4 ,the origin of this1 like that of many other arts1 is lost in the depth of its antiquity2 though it had its rise1 no doubt1 in religious observances4 ,among the nations of antiquity1 an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most profound respect and homage4 ,incense1 or ,frankincense1 which exudes by incision and dries as a gum1 from ,arbor-thurifera1 was formerly burnt in the temples of all religions1 in honor of the divinities that were there adored4 ,many of the primitive ,christians were put to death because they would not offer incense to idols4 ,of the use of these luxuries by the ,greeks1 and afterwards by the ,romans1 ,pliny and ,seneca gives much information respecting perfume drugs1 the method of collecting them1 and the prices at which they sold4 ,oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used1 for even three times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint and scent themselves1 carrying their precious perfumes with them to the baths in costly and elegant boxes called ,,narthecia4 ,in the ,romish ,church incense is used in many ceremonies1 and particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy1 and other personages of exalted rank4 ,pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is procured1 and certain passages in his works indicate that dried flowers were used in his time by way of perfume1 and that they were1 as now1 mixed with spices1 a compound which the modern perfumer calls pot-pourri1 used for scenting apartments1 and generally placed in some ornamental ,vase4 ,it was not uncommon among the ,egyptian ladies to carry about the person a little pouch of odoriferous gums1 as is the case to the present day among the ,chinese1 and to wear beads made of scented wood4 ,the bdellium mentioned by ,moses in ,genesis is a perfuming gum1 resembling frankincense1 if not identical with it4 ,several passages in ,exodus prove the use of perfumes at a very early period among the ,hebrews4 ,in the thirtieth chapter of ,exodus the ,lord said unto ,moses3 #a4 ,and thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon2 of ,shittim wood shalt thou make it4 #g4 ,and ,aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning2 when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn incense upon it4 #cd4 ,take unto thee sweet spices1 stacte1 and onycha1 and galbanum2 these sweet spices with pure frankincense3 of each shall there be a like weight4 #ce4 ,and thou shalt make it a perfume1 a confection after the art of the apothecary1 tempered together pure and holy4 #cf4 ,and thou shalt beat some of it very small1 and put of it before the testimony in the tabernacle of the congregation1 where ,i will meet with thee2 it shall be unto you most holy4 #cg4 ,and as for the perfume which thou shalt make1 ye shall not make to yourselves according to the composition thereof2 it shall be unto thee holy for the ,lord4 #ch4 ,whosoever shall make like unto that to smell thereto1 shall even be cut off from his people4 ,it was from this religious custom1 of employing incense in the ancient temples1 that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile of his1 when he petitioned that his prayers might ascend before the ,lord like incense1 ,luke #a3aj4 ,it was while all the multitude was praying without1 at the hour of incense1 that there appeared to ,zachary an angel of the ,lord1 standing on the right side of the altar of incense4 ,that the nations attached a meaning not only of personal reverence1 but also of religious homage1 to an offering of incense1 is demonstrable from the instance of the ,magi1 who1 having fallen down to adore the new-born ,jesus1 and recognized his ,divinity1 presented ,him with gold1 myrrh and frankincense4 ,the primitive ,christians imitated the example of the ,jews1 and adopted the use of incense at the celebration of the ,liturgy4 ,st4 ,ephraem1 a father of the ,syriac ,church1 directed in his will that no aromatic perfumes should be bestowed upon him at his funeral1 but that the spices should rather be given to the sanctuary4 ,the use of incense in all the ,oriental churches is perpetual1 and almost daily2 nor do any of them ever celebrate their ,liturgy without it1 unless compelled by necessity4 ,the ,coptic1 as well as other ,eastern ,christians1 observe the same ceremonial as the ,latin ,church in incensing their altar1 the sacred vessels1 and ecclesiastical personages4--,,dr4 ,,rock',s ,hierurgia4 ,perfumes were used in the ,church service1 not only under the form of incense1 but also mixed in the oil and wax for the lamps and lights commanded to be burned in the house of the ,lord4 ,the brilliancy and fragrance which were often shed around a martyr's sepulchre1 at the celebration of his festival1 by multitudes of lamps and tapers1 fed with aromatics1 have been noticed by ,st4 ,paulinus3-- ,with crowded lamps are these bright altars crowned1 ,and waxen tapers1 shedding perfume round ,from fragrant wicks1 beam calm a scented ray1 ,to gladden night1 and joy e'en radiant day4 ,,dr4 ,,rock',s ,hierurgia4 ,constantine the ,great provided fragrant oils1 to be burned at the altars of the greater churches in ,rome2 and ,st4 ,paulinus1 of ,nola1 a writer of the end of the fourth and beginning of the fifth century1 tells us how1 in his times1 wax tapers were made for church use1 so as to shed fragrance as they burned3-- ,lumina cerates adolentur odora papyris4 ,a perfume in common use1 even to this day1 was the invention of one of the earliest of the ,roman nobles1 named ,frangipani1 and still bears his name2 it is a powder1 or sachet1 composed of every known spice1 in equal proportions1 to which is added ground iris or orris root1 in weight equal to the whole1 with one per cent4 of musk or civet4 ,a liquid of the same name1 invented by his grandson ,mercutio ,frangipani1 is also in common use1 prepared by digesting the ,frangipane powder in rectified spirits1 which dissolves out the fragrant principles4 ,this has the merit of being the most lasting perfume made4 ,the trade for the ,east in perfume-drugs caused many a vessel to spread its sails to the ,red ,sea1 and many a camel to plod over that tract which gave to ,greece and ,syria their importance as markets1 and vitality to the rocky city of ,petra4 ,southern ,italy was not long ere it occupied itself in ministering to the luxury of the wealthy1 by manufacturing scented unguents and perfumes4 ,so numerous were the ,,unguentarii1 or perfumers1 that they are said to have filled the great street of ancient ,capua4--,,hofmann4 ,as an art1 in ,england1 perfumery has attained little or no distinction4 ,this has arisen from those who follow it as a trade1 maintaining a mysterious secrecy about their processes4 ,no manufacture can ever become great or important to the community that is carried on under a veil of mystery4 ,on the subject of trade mystery ,i will only observe1 that ,i am convinced that it would be far more to the interest of manufacturers if they were more willing to profit by the experience of others1 and less fearful and jealous of the supposed secrets of their craft4 ,it is a great mistake to think that a successful manufacturer is one who has carefully preserved the secrets of his trade1 or that peculiar modes of effecting simple things1 processes unknown in other factories1 and mysteries beyond the comprehension of the vulgar1 are in any way essential to skill as a manufacturer1 or to success as a trader4--,,professor ,,solly4 ,if the horticulturists of ,england were instructed how to collect the odors of flowers1 a new branch of manufacture would spring up to vie with our neighbors' skill in it across the ,channel4 ,of our five senses1 that of ,,smelling has been treated with comparative indifference4 ,however1 as knowledge progresses1 the various faculties with which the ,creator has thought proper in his wisdom to endow man will become developed1 and the faculty of ,smelling will meet with its share of tuition as well as ,sight1 ,hearing1 ,touch1 and ,taste4 ,flowers yield perfumes in all climates1 but those growing in the warmer latitudes are most prolific in their odor1 while those from the colder are the sweetest4 ,hooker1 in his travels in ,iceland1 speaks of the delightful fragrance of the flowers in the valley of ,skardsheidi2 we know that winter-green1 violets1 and primroses are found here1 and the wild thyme1 in great abundance4 ,mr4 ,louis ,piesse1 in company with ,captain ,sturt1 exploring the wild regions of ,south ,australia1 writes3 ,the rains have clothed the earth with a green as beautiful as a ,shropshire meadow in ,may1 and with flowers1 too1 as sweet as an ,english violet2 the pure white anemone resembles it in scent4 ,the ,yellow ,wattle1 when in flower1 is splendid1 and emits a most fragrant odor4 ,though many of the finest perfumes come from the ,east ,indies1 ,ceylon1 ,mexico1 and ,peru1 the ,south of ,europe is the only real garden of utility to the perfumer4 ,grasse and ,nice are the principal seats of the art2 from their geographical position1 the grower1 within comparatively short distances1 has at command that change of climate best fitted to bring to perfection the plants required for his trade4 ,on the seacoast his ,cassiae grows without fear of frost1 one night of which would destroy all the plants for a season2 while1 nearer the ,alps1 his violets are found sweeter than if grown in the warmer situations1 where the orange tree and mignionette bloom to perfection4 ,england can claim the superiority in the growth of lavender and peppermint2 the essential oils extracted from these plants grown at ,mitcham1 in ,surrey1 realize eight times the price in the market of those produced in ,france or elsewhere1 and are fully worth the difference for delicacy of odor4 ,the odors of plants reside in different parts of them1 sometimes in the roots1 as in the iris and vitivert2 the stem or wood1 in cedar and sandal2 the leaves1 in mint1 patchouly1 and thyme2 the flower1 in the roses and violets2 the seeds in the ,tonquin bean and caraway2 the bark1 in cinnamon1 c4 ,some plants yield more than one odor1 which are quite distinct and characteristic4 ,the orange tree1 for instance1 gives three--from the leaves one called petit grain2 from the flowers we procure neroli2 and from the rind of the fruit1 essential oil of orange1 essence of ,portugal4 ,on this account1 perhaps1 this tree is the most valuable of all to the operative perfumer4 ,the fragrance or odor of plants is owing1 in nearly all cases1 to a perfectly volatile oil1 either contained in small vessels1 or sacs within them1 or generated from time to time1 during their life1 as when in blossom4 ,some few exude1 by incision1 odoriferous gums1 as benzoin1 olibanum1 myrrh1 c42 others give1 by the same act1 what are called balsams1 which appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous gum4 ,some of these balsams are procured in the country to which the plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a time1 straining1 and then boiling again1 or evaporating it down till it assumes the consistency of treacle4 ,in this latter way is balsam of ,peru procured from the ,myroxylon peruiferum1 and the balsam of ,tolu from the ,myroxylon toluiferum4 ,though their odors are agreeable1 they are not much applied in perfumery for handkerchief use1 but by some they are mixed with soap1 and in ,england they are valued more for their medicinal properties than for their fragrance4 ,,section ,,ii4 ,were not summer's distillations left ,a liquid prisoner1 pent in walls of glass1 ,beauty's effect with beauty were bereft1 ,nor it1 nor no remembrance what it was2 ,but flowers distilled1 though they with winter meet1 ,leese but their show1 their substance still lives sweet4 ,,shakspeare4 ,the extensive flower farms in the neighborhood of ,nice1 ,grasse1 ,montpellier1 and ,cannes1 in ,france1 at ,adrianople 7,turkey in ,asia71 at ,broussa and ,uslak 7,turkey in ,asia71 and at ,mitcham1 in ,england1 in a measure indicate the commercial importance of that branch of chemistry called perfumery4 ,british ,india and ,europe consume annually1 at the very lowest estimate1 #aej1jjj gallons of perfumed spirits1 under various titles1 such as eau de ,cologne1 essence of lavender1 esprit de rose1 c4 ,the art of perfumery does not1 however1 confine itself to the production of scents for the handkerchief and bath1 but extends to imparting odor to inodorous bodies1 such as soap1 oil1 starch1 and grease1 which are consumed at the toilette of fashion4 ,some idea of the commercial importance of this art may be formed1 when we state that one of the large perfumers of ,grasse and ,paris employs annually #hj1jjj lbs4 of orange flowers1 #fj1jjj lbs4 of cassia flowers1 #ed1jjj lbs4 of rose-leaves1 #cb1jjj lbs4 of jasmine blossoms1 #cb1jjj lbs4 of violets1 #bj1jjj lbs4 of tubereuse1 #af1jjj lbs4 of lilac1 besides rosemary1 mint1 lemon1 citron1 thyme1 and other odorous plants in large proportion4 ,in fact1 the quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far beyond the conception of those even used to abstract statistics4 ,to the chemical philosopher1 the study of perfumery opens a book as yet unread2 for the practical perfumer1 on his laboratory shelves1 exhibits many rare essential oils1 such as essential oil of the flower of the ,acacia farnesiana1 essential oil of violets1 tubereuse1 jasmine1 and others1 the compositions of which have yet to be determined4 ,the exquisite pleasure derived from smelling fragrant flowers would almost instinctively induce man to attempt to separate the odoriferous principle from them1 so as to have the perfume when the season denies the flowers4 ,thus we find the alchemists of old1 torturing the plants in every way their invention could devise for this end2 and it is on their experiments that the whole art of perfumery has been reared4 ,without recapitulating those facts which may be found diffused through nearly all the old authors on medical botany1 chemistry1 pharmacy1 and works of this character1 from the time of ,paracelsus to ,celnart1 we may state at once the mode of operation adopted by the practical perfumer of the present day for preparing the various extracts or essences1 waters1 oils1 pomades1 c41 used in his calling4 ,the processes are divided into four distinct operations2 viz4-- #a4 ,expression2 #b4 ,distillation2 #c4 ,maceration2 #d4 ,absorption4 #a4 ,expression is only adopted where the plant is very prolific in its volatile or essential oil1--i4e4 its odor2 such1 for instance1 as is found in the pellicle or outer peel of the orange1 lemon1 and citron1 and a few others4 ,in these cases1 the parts of the plant containing the odoriferous principle are put sometimes in a cloth bag1 and at others by themselves into a press1 and by mere mechanical force it is squeezed out4 ,the press is an iron vessel of immense strength1 varying in size from six inches in diameter1 and twelve deep1 and upwards1 to contain one hundred weight or more2 it has a small aperture at the bottom to allow the expressed material to run for collection2 in the interior is placed a perforated false bottom1 and on this the substance to be squeezed is placed1 covered with an iron plate fitting the interior2 this is connected with a powerful screw1 which1 being turned1 forces the substance so closely together1 that the little vessels containing the essential oils are burst1 and it thus escapes4 ,the common tincture press is indeed a model of such an instrument4 ,the oils which are thus collected are contaminated with watery extracts1 which exudes at the same time1 and from which it has to be separated2 this it does by itself in a measure1 by standing in a quiet place1 and it is then poured off and strained4 ,illustration3 ,pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water4 #b4 ,distillation4--,the plant1 or part of it1 which contains the odoriferous principle1 is placed in an iron1 copper1 or glass pan1 varying in size from that capable of holding from one to twenty gallons1 and covered with water2 to the pan a dome-shaped lid is fitted1 terminating with a pipe1 which is twisted corkscrew fashion1 and fixed in a bucket1 with the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel4 ,the water in the still--for such is the name of the apparatus--is made to boil2 and having no other exit1 the steam must pass through the coiled pipe2 which1 being surrounded with cold water in the bucket1 condenses the vapor before it can arrive at the tap4 ,with the steam1 the volatile oils--i4e4 perfume--rises1 and is liquefied at the same time4 ,the liquids which thus run over1 on standing for a time1 separate into two portions1 and are finally divided with a funnel having a stopcock in the narrow part of it4 ,by this process1 the majority of the volatile or essential oils are procured4 ,in some few instances alcohol--i4e4 rectified spirit of wine--is placed upon the odorous materials in lieu of water1 which1 on being distilled1 comes away with the perfuming substance dissolved in it4 ,but this process is now nearly obsolete1 as it is found more beneficial to draw the oil or essence first with water1 and afterwards to dissolve it in the spirit4 ,the low temperature at which spirit boils1 compared with water1 causes a great loss of essential oil1 the heat not being sufficient to disengage it from the plant1 especially where seeds such as cloves or caraway are employed4 ,it so happens1 however1 that the finest odors1 the recherche as the ,parisians say1 cannot be procured by this method2 then recourse is had to the next process4 ,illustration3 ,tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits from oil4 #c4 ,maceration4--,of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of flowers1 this is the most important to the perfumer1 and is the least understood in ,england2 as this operation yields not only the most exquisite essences indirectly1 but also nearly all those fine pomades known here as ,french pomatums1 so much admired for the strength of fragrance1 together with ,french oils equally perfumed4 ,the operation is conducted thus3--,for what is called pomade1 a certain quantity of purified mutton or deer suet is put into a clean metal or porcelain pan1 this being melted by a steam heat2 the kind of flowers required for the odor wanted are carefully picked and put into the liquid fat1 and allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours2 the fat has a particular affinity or attraction for the oil of flowers1 and thus1 as it were1 draws it out of them1 and becomes itself1 by their aid1 highly perfumed2 the fat is strained from the spent flowers1 and fresh are added four or five times over1 till the pomade is of the required strength2 these various strengths of pomatums are noted by the ,french makers as ,nos4 #f1 #ab1 #ah1 and #bd1 the higher numerals indicating the amount of fragrance in them4 ,for perfumed oils the same operation is followed2 but1 in lieu of suet1 fine olive oil or oil of ben1 derived from the ben nuts of the ,levant1 is used1 and the same results are obtained4 ,these oils are called ,huile ,antique of such and such a flower4 ,when neither of the foregoing processes gives satisfactory results1 the method of procedure adopted is by1-- #d4 ,absorption1 or ,enfleurage4--,the odors of some flowers are so delicate and volatile1 that the heat required in the previously named processes would greatly modify1 if not entirely spoil them2 this process is1 therefore1 conducted cold1 thus3--,square frames1 about three inches deep1 with a glass bottom1 say two feet wide and three feet long1 are procured2 over the glass a layer of fat is spread1 about half an inch thick1 with a kind of plaster knife or spatula2 into this the flower buds are stuck1 cup downwards1 and ranged completely over it1 and there left from twelve to seventy-two hours4 ,some houses1 such as that of ,messrs4 ,pilar and ,sons2 ,pascal ,brothers2 ,h4 ,herman1 and a few others1 have #cjjj such frames at work during the season2 as they are filled1 they are piled one over the other1 the flowers are changed so long as the plants continue to bloom1 which now and then exceeds two or three months4 ,for oils of the same plants1 coarse linen cloths are imbued with the finest olive oil or oil of ben1 and stretched upon a frame made of iron2 on these the flowers are laid and suffered to remain a few days4 ,this operation is repeated several times1 after which the cloths are subjected to great pressure1 to remove the now perfumed oil4 ,as we cannot give any general rule for working1 without misleading the reader1 we prefer explaining the process required for each when we come to speak of the individual flower or plant4 ,,section ,,iii4 ,whenever a ,still is named1 or an article is said to be distilled or drawn1 it must be understood to be done so by steam apparatus1 as this is the only mode which can be adopted for obtaining anything like a delicate odor2 the old plan of having the fire immediately under the still1 conveying an empyreumatic or burnt smell to the result1 has become obsolete in every well-regulated perfumatory4 ,the steam-still differs from the one described only in the lower part1 or pan1 which is made double1 so as to allow steam from a boiler to circulate round the pan for the purpose of boiling the contents1 instead of the direct fire4 ,in macerating1 the heat is applied in the same way1 or by a contrivance like the common glue-pot1 as made use of nowadays4 ,this description of apparatus will be found very useful for experiments which we will suggest by-and-by4 ,the perfumes for the handkerchief1 as found in the shops of ,paris and ,london1 are either simple or compound2 the former are called extracts1 extraits1 esprits1 or essences1 and the latter bouquets and nosegays1 which are mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity that no one flower or odor can be discovered as predominating over another2 and when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully blended1 they produce an exquisite sensation on the olfactory nerve1 and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to purchase them4 ,we shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple extracts of flowers4 ,this will be followed by the process for preparing ambergris1 musk1 and civet1 substances1 which1 though of animal origin1 are of the utmost importance as forming a large part in the most approved bouquets2 and we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for all the fashionable bouquets and nosegays1 the value of which1 we doubt not1 will be estimated according to the labor bestowed upon their analysis4 ,in order to render the work more easy of consultation1 we have adopted the alphabetical arrangement in preference to a more scientific classification4 ,among the collection of ottos of the ,east ,india ,company at the ,exhibition of #ahea1 were several hitherto unknown in this country1 and possessing much interest4 ,it is to be regretted1 that no person having any practical knowledge of perfumery was placed on the jury of ,class ,,iv or ,,xxix4 ,had such been the case1 the desires of the exhibitors would probably have been realized1 and ,european perfumers benefited by the introduction of new odors from the ,east4 ,some of the ottos sent by a native perfumer of ,benares were deemed worthy of honorable mention4 ,such as ,chumeylee1 ,beyla1 ,begla1 ,moteya1 and many others from the ,moluccas1 but without any information respecting them4 ,we are not going to speak of1 perhaps1 more than a tithe of the plants that have a perfume--only those will be mentioned that are used by the operative perfumer1 and such as are imitated by him in consequence of there being a demand for the article1 which circumstances prevent him from obtaining in its genuine state4 ,the first that comes under our notice is-- ,,allspice4--,the odoriferous principle of allspice1 commonly called pimento1 is obtained by distilling the dried fruit1 before it is quite ripe1 of the ,eugenia pimenta and ,myrtus pimenta with water4 ,it is thus procured as an essential oil2 it is but little used in perfumery1 and when so1 only in combination with other spice oils2 for scenting soap it is1 however1 very agreeable1 and much resembles the smell of cloves1 and deserves more attention than it has hitherto received4 ,mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with one gallon of rectified spirit of wine1 it forms what may be termed extract of allspice1 which extract will be found very useful in the manufacture of low-priced bouquets4 ,,almonds4 ,mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood2 ,if od'rous blooms the bearing branches load1 ,the glebe will answer to the sylvan reign1 ,great heats will follow1 and large crops of grain4 ,,virgil4 ,this perfume has been much esteemed for many ages4 ,it may be procured by distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe1 and the kernels of stone fruit2 for trade purposes1 it is obtained from the bitter almonds1 and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after it is shelled4 ,in the ordinary way1 the almonds are put into the press for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut2 the cake which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water1 and allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to distillation4 ,the reason for moistening the cake is well understood to the practical chemist1 and although we are not treating the subject of perfumery in a chemical sense1 but only in a practical way1 it may not be inappropriate here to observe1 that the essential oil of almonds does not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut1 but that it is produced by a species of fermentation1 from the amygdalin and emulsine contained in the almonds1 together with the water that is added4 ,analogous substances exist in laurel leaves1 and hence the same course is to be pursued when they are distilled4 ,some manufacturers put the moistened cake into a bag of coarse cloth1 or spread it upon a sieve1 and then force the stream through it2 in either case1 the essential oil of the almond rises with the watery vapor1 and is condensed in the still-worm4 ,in this concentrated form1 the odor of almonds is far from agreeable2 but when diluted with spirit1 in the proportion of about one and a half ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol1 it is very pleasant4 ,illustration3 ,almond4 ,the essential oil of almonds1 enters into combination with soap1 cold cream1 and many other materials prepared by the perfumer2 for which see their respective titles4 ,fourteen pounds of the cake yield about one ounce of essential oil4 ,in experiments with this substance1 it must be carefully remembered that it is exceedingly poisonous1 and1 therefore1 great caution is necessary in its admixture with substances used as a cosmetic1 otherwise dangerous results may ensue4 ,artificial ,otto of ,almonds4--,five or six years ago1 ,mr4 ,mansfield1 of ,weybridge1 took out a patent for the manufacture of otto of almonds from benzole4 7,benzole is obtained from tar oil47 ,his apparatus1 according to the ,report of the juries of the #ahea ,exhibition1 consists of a large glass tube in the form of a coil1 which at the upper end divides into two tubes2 each of which is provided with a funnel4 ,a stream of nitric acid flows slowly into one of the funnels1 and benzole into the other4 ,the two substances meet at the point of union of the tubes1 and a combination ensues with the evolution of heat4 ,as the newly formed compound flows down through the coil it becomes cool1 and is collected at the lower extremity2 it then requires to be washed with water1 and lastly with a dilute solution of carbonate of soda1 to render it fit for use4 ,nitro-benzole1 which is the chemical name for this artificial otto of almonds1 has a different odor to the true otto of almonds1 but it can nevertheless be used for perfuming soap4 ,mr4 ,mansfield writes to me under date of ,january #c;d1 #ahee3--;,in #ahea1 ,messrs4 ,gosnell1 of ,three ,king ,court1 began to make this perfume under my license2 latterly ,i withdrew the license from them by their consent1 and since then it is not made that ,i am aware of4 ,it is1 however1 quite common in ,paris4 ,,anise4--,the odorous principle is procured by distilling the seeds of the plant ,pimpinella anisum2 the product is the oil of aniseed of commerce4 ,as it congeals at a temperature of about #ej deg4 ,fahr41 it is frequently adulterated with a little spermaceti1 to give a certain solidity to it1 whereby other cheaper essential oils can be added to it with less chance of detection4 ,as the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in spirit1 and the spermaceti insoluble1 the fraud is easily detected4 ,this perfume is exceedingly strong1 and is1 therefore1 well adapted for mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums1 but does not do nicely in compounds for handkerchief use4 ,,balm1 oil of ,balm1 called also oil of ,melissa1 is obtained by distilling the leaves of the ,melissa officinalis with water2 it comes from the still tap with the condensed steam or water1 from which it is separated with the tap funnel4 ,but it is very little used in perfumery1 if we except its combination in ,aqua di ,argento4 ,,balsam4--,under this title there are two or three substances used in perfumery1 such as balsam of ,peru1 balsam of ,tolu1 and balsam of storax 7also called liquid amber74 ,the first-named1 is procured from the ,myroxylon peruiferum2 it exudes from the tree when wounded1 and is also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water4 ,the latter is the most common method for procuring it4 ,it has a strong odor1 like benzoin4 ,balsam of ,tolu flows from the ,toluifera balsammum4 ,it resembles common resin 7rosin72 with the least warmth1 however1 it runs to a liquid1 like brown treacle4 ,the smell of it is particularly agreeable1 and being soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet1 giving in this respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of an oil would not possess4 ,for this purpose all these balsams are very useful1 though not so much used as they might be4 ,,ulex has found that balsam of ,tolu is frequently adulterated with common resin4 ,to detect this adulteration he pours sulphuric acid on the balsam1 and heats the mixture1 when the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid1 without evolving sulphurous acid1 but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid1 if no common resin is present4 ,on the contrary1 the balsam foams1 blackens1 and much sulphurous acid is set free1 if it is adulterated with common resin4--,archives der ,pharmacie4 ,balsam of storax1 commonly called gum styrax1 is obtained in the same manner1 and possessing similar properties1 with a slight variation of odor1 is applicable in the same manner as the above4 ,they are all imported from ,south ,america1 ,chili1 and ,mexico1 where the trees that produce them are indigenous4 ,,bay1 oil of sweet ,bay1 also termed essential oil of laurel-berries1 is a very fragrant substance1 procured by distillation from the berries of the bay laurel4 ,though very pleasant1 it is not much used4 ,,bergamot4--,this most useful perfume is procured from the ,citrus ,bergamia1 by expression from the peel of the fruit4 ,it has a soft sweet odor1 too well known to need description here4 ,when new and good it has a greenish-yellow tint1 but loses its greenness by age1 especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles4 ,it then becomes cloudy from the deposit of resinous matter1 produced by the contact of the air1 and acquires a turpentine smell4 ,it is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles1 kept in a cool cellar1 and in the dark2 light1 especially the direct sunshine1 quickly deteriorates its odor4 ,this observation may be applied1 indeed1 to all perfumes1 except rose1 which is not so spoiled4 ,when bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to their richness1 and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no other means1 and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented soaps4 ,mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four ounces of bergamot to a gallon1 it forms what is called extract of bergamot1 and in this state is used for the handkerchief4 ,though well covered with extract of orris and other matters1 it is the leading ingredient in ,bayley and ,blew's ,ess4 ,bouquet 7see ,,bouquets74 ,illustration3 ,styrax ,benzoin4 ,,benzoin1 also called ,benjamin4--,this is a very useful substance to perfumers4 ,it exudes from the ,styrax benzoin by wounding the tree1 and drying1 becomes a hard gum-resin4 ,it is principally imported from ,borneo1 ,java1 ,sumatra1 and ,siam4 ,the best kind comes from the latter place1 and used to be called ,amygdaloides1 because of its being interspersed with several white spots1 which resemble broken almonds4 ,when heated1 these white specks rise as a smoke1 which is easily condensed upon paper4 ,the material thus separated from the benzoin is called flowers of benzoin in commerce1 and by chemists is termed benzoic acid4 ,it has all1 or nearly all1 the odor of the resin from which it is derived4 ,the extract1 or tincture of benzoin1 forms a good basis for a bouquet4,b ,like balsam of ,tolu1 it gives permanence and body to a perfume made with an essential oil in spirit4 ,the principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles 7see ,,pastilles71 and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla pomade 7see ,,pomatums74 ,,caraway4--,this odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation from the seeds of the ,carum carui4 ,it has a very pleasant smell1 quite familiar enough without description4 ,it is well adapted to perfume soap1 for which it is much used in ,england1 though rarely if ever on the continent2 when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences1 in a similar way to cloves 7see ,,cloves74 ,if caraway seeds are ground1 they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder 7see ,,sachets74 ,,cascarilla4--,the bark is used in the formation of pastilles1 and also enters into the composition known as ,eau a ,bruler1 for perfuming apartments1 to which we refer4 ,the bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer1 and that only in the fabrication of pastilles4 ,the ,cascarilla gratissimus is however so fragrant1 that according to ,burnett its leaves are gathered by the ,koras of the ,cape of ,good ,hope as a perfume1 and both the ,c4 fragrans and ,c4 fragilis are odoriferous4 ,it behooves perfumers1 therefore1 who are on the look out for novelties1 to obtain these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation4 ,messrs4 ,herring and ,co41 some years ago1 drew the oil of cascarilla1 but it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity4 ,,cassia4--,the essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling the outer bark of the ,cinnamomum cassia4 #a cwt4 of bark yields rather more than three quarters of a pound of oil2 it has a pale yellow color2 in smell it much resembles cinnamon1 although very inferior to it4 ,it is principally used for perfuming soap1 especially what is called military soap1 as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor2 it therefore finds no place for handkerchief use4 ,,cassie4-- ,the short narcissus and fair daffodil1 ,pansies to please the sight1 and cassie sweet to swell4 ,,dryden',s ,virgil4 ,this is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the best handkerchief bouquets4 ,illustration3 ,flower-buds of the ,acacia ,farnesiana4 ,when smelled at alone1 it has an intense violet odor1 and is rather sickly sweet4 ,it is procured by maceration from the ,acacia farnesiana4 ,the purified fat is melted1 into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for several hours2 the spent flowers are removed1 and fresh are added1 eight or ten times1 until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained4 ,as many flowers are used as the grease will cover1 when they are put into it1 in a liquid state4 ,after being strained1 and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient only to retain its liquidity1 all impurities will subside by standing for a few days4 ,finally cooled1 it is the cassie pomade of commerce4 ,the ,huile de ,cassie1 or fat oil of cassie1 is prepared in a similar manner1 substituting the oil of ,egyptian ben nut1 olive oil1 or almond oil1 in place of suet4 ,both these preparations are obviously only a solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral fatty body4 ,europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented pomade from ,south ,australia1 derived from the ,wattle1 a plant that belongs to the same genus as the ,a4 farnesiana1 and which grows most luxuriantly in ,australia4 ,mutton fat being cheap1 and the wattle plentiful1 a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers1 c4 ,to prepare the extract of cassie1 take six pounds of ,no4 #bd 7best quality7 cassie pomade1 and place upon it one gallon of the best rectified spirit1 as sent out by ,bowerbank1 of ,bishopsgate4 ,after it has digested for three weeks or a month1 at a summer heat1 it is fit to draw from the pomatum1 and1 if good1 has a beautiful green color and rich flowery smell of the cassie blossom4 ,all extracts made by this process--maceration1 or1 as it may be called1 cold infusion1 give a more natural smell of the flowers to the result1 than by merely dissolving the essential oil 7procured by distillation7 in the spirit2 moreover1 where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute quantities1 as in the present instance1 and with violet1 jasmine1 c41 it is the only practical mode of proceeding4 ,in this1 and all other similar cases1 the pomatum must be cut up into very small pieces1 after the domestic manner of chopping suet1 prior to its being infused in the alcohol4 ,the action of the mixture is simply a change of place in the odoriferous matter1 which leaves the fat body by the superior attraction1 or affinity1 as the chemists say1 of the spirits of wine1 in which it freely dissolves4 ,the major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off the pomatum without trouble1 but it still retains a portion in the interstices1 which requires time to drain away1 and this must be assisted by placing the pomatum in a large funnel1 supported by a bottle1 in order to collect the remainder4 ,finally1 all the pomatum1 which is now called washed pomatum1 is to be put into a tin1 which tin must be set into hot water1 for the purpose of melting its contents2 when the pomatum thus becomes liquefied1 any extract that is still in it rises to the surface1 and can be skimmed off1 or when the pomatum becomes cold it can be poured from it4 ,the washed pomatum is preserved for use in the manufacture of dressing for the hair1 for which purpose it is exceedingly well adapted1 on account of the purity of the grease from which it was originally prepared1 but more particularly on account of a certain portion of odor which it still retains2 and were it not used up in this way1 it would be advisable to put it for a second infusion in spirit1 and thus a weaker extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles4 ,i cannot leave cassie without recommending it more especially to the notice of perfumers and druggists1 as an article well adapted for the purpose of the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief and pomades for the hair4 ,when diluted with other odors1 it imparts to the whole such a true flowery fragrance1 that it is the admiration of all who smell it1 and has not a little contributed to the great sale which certain proprietary articles have attained4 ,we caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with cassia1 which has a totally different odor4 ,see ,,acacia ,,pomade4 ,,cedar ,,wood now and then finds a place in a perfumer's warehouse2 when ground1 it does well to form a body for sachet powder4 ,slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting lamps1 because while burning an agreeable odor is evolved2 some people use it also1 in this condition1 distributed among clothes in drawers to prevent moth4 ,on distillation it yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant4 ,messrs4 ,rigge and ,co41 of ,london1 use it extensively for scenting soap4 ,,lebanon ,,cedar ,,wood4 7,for the ,handkerchief47 ,otto of cedar1 #a oz4 ,rectified spirit1 #a pint4 ,esprit rose trip1 #a_/d pint4 ,the tincture smells agreeably of the wood1 from which it can readily be made4 ,its crimson color1 however1 prohibits it from being used for the handkerchief4 ,it forms an excellent tincture for the teeth1 and is the basis of the celebrated ,french dentifrice eau ,botot4 ,,cedrat4--,this perfume is procured from the rind of the citron fruit 7,citrus medica71 both by distillation and expression2 it has a very beautiful lemony odor1 and is much admired4 ,it is principally used in the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief1 being too expensive for perfuming grease or soap4 ,what is called extract of cedrat is made by dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in one pint of spirits1 to which some perfumers add half an ounce of bergamot4 ,,cinnamon4--,several species of the plant ,laurus cinnamomum yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce4 ,its name is said to be derived from ,china ,amomum1 the bark being one of the most valued spices of the ,east4 ,perfumers use both the bark and the oil1 which is obtained by distillation from it4 ,the ground bark enters into the composition of some pastilles1 tooth powders1 and sachets4 ,the essential oil of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from ,ceylon2 it is exceedingly powerful1 and must be used sparingly4 ,in such compounds as cloves answer1 so will cinnamon4 ,,citron4--,on distilling the flowers of the ,citrus medica1 a very fragrant oil is procured1 which is a species of neroli1 and is principally consumed by the manufacturers of eau de ,cologne4 ,,citronella4--,under this name there is an oil in the market1 chiefly derived from ,ceylon and the ,east ,indies2 its true origin we are unable to decide2 in odor it somewhat resembles citron fruit1 but is very inferior4 ,probably it is procured from one of the grasses of the ,andropogon genus4 ,being cheap1 it is extensively used for perfuming soap4 ,what is now extensively sold as honey soap1 is a fine yellow soap slightly perfumed with this oil4 ,some few use it for scenting grease1 but it is not much admired in that way4 ,,cloves4--,every part of the clove plant 7,caryophyllus aromaticus7 abounds with aromatic oil1 but it is most fragrant and plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud1 which are the cloves of commerce4 ,cloves have been brought into the ,european market for more than #bjjj years4 ,the plant is a native of the ,moluccas and other islands in the ,china seas4 ,the average annual crop of cloves1 says ,burnett1 is1 from each tree1 #b or #b-a_/b lbs41 but a fine tree has been known to yield #abe lbs4 of this spice in a single season1 and as #ejjj cloves only weigh one pound1 there must have been at least #fbe1jjj flowers upon this single tree4 ,illustration3 ,clove4 ,the oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh flower-buds1 but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation1 which is carried on to a very great extent in this country4 ,few essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of cloves2 it combines well with grease1 soap1 and spirit1 and1 as will be seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter1 it forms a leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences1 ,rondeletia1 the ,guard's ,bouquet1 c41 and will be found where least expected4 ,for essence of cloves1 dissolve oil of cloves in the proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit4 ,,dill4--,perfumers are now and then asked for dill water2 it is1 however1 more a druggist's article than a perfumer's1 as it is more used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor1 which by the way1 is rather pleasant than otherwise4 ,some ladies use a mixture of half dill water and half rose water1 as a simple cosmetic1 to clear the complexion4 ,the oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill 7,anethum graveolens7 with water to distillation4 ,the oil floats on the surface of the distillate1 from which it is separated by the funnel in the usual manner2 after the separation of the oil1 the water is fit for sale4 ,oil of dill may be used with advantage1 if in small proportions1 and mixed with other oils1 for perfuming soap4 ,,eglantine1 or ,,sweet ,,briar1 notwithstanding what the poet ,robert ,noyes says-- ,in fragrance yields1 ,surpassing citron groves or spicy fields1 does not find a place in the perfumer's scent-room except in name4 ,this1 like many other sweet-scented plants1 does not repay the labor of collecting its odor4 ,the fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more or less under every treatment that it is put to1 and hence it is discarded4 ,as1 however1 the article is in demand by the public1 a species of fraud is practised upon them1 by imitating it thus3-- ,,imitation ,,eglantine1 ,,or ,,essence ,,of ,,sweet ,,briar4 ,spirituous extract of ,french rose pomatum1 #a pint4 cassie1 #a_/d fleur d'orange1 #a_/d ,esprit de rose1 #a_/d ,oil of neroli1 #a_/b drachm4 ,oil of lemon grass 7verbena oil71 #a_/b ,,elder 7,sambucus nigra74--,the only preparation of this plant for its odorous quality used by the perfumer1 is elder-flower water4 ,to prepare it1 take nine pounds of elder-flowers1 free from stalk1 and introduce it to the still with four gallons of water2 the first three gallons that come over is all that need be preserved for use2 one ounce of rectified spirit should be added to each gallon of water distilled1 and when bottled it is ready for sale4 ,other preparations of elder flowers are made1 such as milk of elder1 extract of elder1 c41 which will be found in their proper place under ,cosmetics4 ,two or three new materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter1 which are likely to meet with a very large sale on account of the reputed cooling qualities of the ingredients2 of these we would call attention more particularly to cold cream of elder-flowers1 and to elder oil for the hair4 ,the preparations of elder-flowers1 if made according to the ,pharmacopoeias1 are perfectly useless1 as the forms therein given show an utter want of knowledge of the properties of the materials employed4 ,,fennel 7,foeniculum vulgare74--,dried fennel herb1 when ground1 enters into the composition of some sachet powders4 ,the oil of fennel1 in conjunction with other aromatic oils1 may be used for perfuming soap4 ,it is procurable by distillation4 ,,flag 7,,sweet7 7,acorus calamus74--,the roots1 or rhizome1 of the sweet flag1 yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling oil2 #a cwt4 of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil4 ,it can be used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer in scenting grease1 soap1 or for extracts1 but requires other sweet oils with it to hide its origin4 ,,geranium 7,pelargonium odoratissimum1 rose-leaf geranium74--,the leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very agreeable rosy-smelling oil1 so much resembling real otto of rose1 that it is used very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil1 and is grown very largely for that express purpose4 ,it is principally cultivated in the south of ,france1 and in ,turkey 7by the rose-growers74 ,in the department of ,seine-et-,oise1 at ,montfort-,lamaury1 in ,france1 hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing4 #a cwt4 of leaves will yield about two ounces of essential oil4 ,used to adulterate otto of rose1 it is in its turn itself adulterated with ginger grass oil 7,andropogon71 and thus formerly was very difficult to procure genuine2 on account of the increased cultivation of the plant1 it is now1 however1 easily procured pure4 ,some samples are greenish-colored1 others nearly white1 but we prefer that of a brownish tint4 ,when dissolved in rectified spirit1 in the proportion of about six ounces to the gallon1 it forms the extract of rose-leaf geranium of the shops4 ,a word or two is necessary about the oil of geranium1 as much confusion is created respecting it1 in consequence of there being an oil under the name of geranium1 but which in reality is derived from the ,andropogon nardus1 cultivated in the ,moluccas4 ,this said andropogon 7geranium67 oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium1 and hence we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets4 ,the genuine rose-leaf geranium oil fetches about #fs4 per ounce1 while the andropogon oil is not worth more than that sum per pound4 ,and we may observe here1 that the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale perfumers1 as from the nature of their trade they have a better knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker4 ,on account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium1 it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials1 and appears to give the public great satisfaction4 ,,heliotrope4--,either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified fat1 we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the ,heliotrope ,peruvianum or ,h4 grandiflorum4 ,exquisite as the odor of this plant is1 at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer4 ,this we think rather a singular fact1 especially as the perfume is powerful and the flowers abundant4 ,we should like to hear of some experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this country1 and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which would most likely lead to successful results4 ,for a small trial in the first instance1 which can be managed by any person having the run of a garden1 we will say1 procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use1 which melts the material by the boiling of water2 it is in fact a water-bath1 in chemical parlance--one capable of holding a pound or more of melted fat4 ,at the season when the flowers are in bloom1 obtain half a pound of fine mutton suet1 melt the suet and strain it through a close hair-sieve1 allow the liquefied fat1 as it falls from the sieve1 to drop into cold spring water2 this operation granulates and washes the blood and membrane from it4 ,in order to start with a perfectly inodorous grease1 the melting and granulation process may be repeated three or four times2 finally1 remelt the fat and cast it into a pan to free it from adhering water4 ,now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot1 and place it in such a position near the fire of the greenhouse1 or elsewhere that will keep it warm enough to be liquid2 into the fat throw as many flowers as you can1 and there let them remain for twenty-four hours2 at this time strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones2 repeat this operation for a week3 we expect at the last straining the fat will have become very highly perfumed1 and when cold may be justly termed ,pomade a la ,heliotrope4 ,the cold pomade being chopped up1 like suet for a pudding1 is now to be put into a wide-mouthed bottle1 and covered with spirits as highly rectified as can be obtained1 and left to digest for a week or more2 the spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed2 in reality it will be extract of ,heliotrope1 a delightful perfume for the handkerchief4 ,the rationale of the operation is simple enough3 the fat body has a strong affinity or attraction for the odorous body1 or essential oil of the flowers1 and it therefore absorbs it by contact1 and becomes itself perfumed4 ,in the second operation1 the spirit has a much greater attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter2 the former1 therefore1 becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter4 ,the same experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat4 ,the experiment here hinted at1 may be varied with any flowers that there are to spare2 indeed1 by having the macerating bath larger than was mentioned above1 an excellent millefleur pomade and essence might be produced from every conservatory in the kingdom1 and thus we may receive another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of form and color4 ,we hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments of this nature will not be deterred by saying1 they are not worth the trouble4 ,it must be remembered1 that very fine essences realize in the ,london perfumery warehouses #afs4 per pint of #af ounces1 and that fine flowery-scented pomades fetch the same sum per pound4 ,if the experiments are successful they should be published1 as then we may hope to establish a new and important manufacture in this country4 ,but we are digressing4 ,the odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla1 and is well imitated thus3-- ,,extract ,,of ,,heliotrope4 ,spirituous extract of vanilla1 #a_/b pint4 ,french rose pomatum1 #a_/d orange-flower pomatum1 #b oz4 ambergris1 #a oz4 ,essential oil of almonds1 #e drops4 ,a preparation made in this manner under the name of ,extract de ,heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of ,paris and ,london1 and is really a very nice perfume1 passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope4 ,,honeysuckle or ,,woodbine3-- ,copious of flower the woodbine1 pale and wan1 ,but well compensating her sickly looks ,with never-cloying odors4 ,what the poet ,cowper here says is quite true2 nevertheless1 it is a flower that is not used in practical perfumery1 though there is no reason for abandoning it4 ,the experiments suggested for obtaining the odor of ,heliotrope and ,millefleur 7thousand flowers7 are also applicable to this1 as also to ,hawthorn4 ,a good ,,imitation ,,of ,,honeysuckle is made thus3-- ,spirituous extract of rose pomatum1 #a pint4 violet #a tubereuse #a ,extract of vanilla1 #a_/d ,tolu1 #a_/d ,otto neroli1 #aj drops4 almonds1 #e ,the prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would probably be too high to meet the demand of a retail druggist2 in such cases it may be diluted with rectified spirit to the extent to make it pay1 and will yet be a nice perfume4 ,the formula generally given herein for odors is in anticipation that when bottled they will retail for at least eighteen-pence the fluid ounce6 which is the average price put on the finest perfumery by the manufacturers of ,london and ,paris4 ,,hovenia4--,a perfume under this name is sold to a limited extent1 but if it did not smell better than the plant ,hovenia dulcis or ,h4 inequalis1 a native of ,japan1 it would not sell at all4 ,the article in the market is made thus3-- ,rectified spirit1 #a quart4 ,rose-water1 #a_/b pint4 ,otto lemons1 #a_/b oz4 ,otto of rose1 #a drachm4 cloves1 #a_/b neroli1 #aj drops4 ,first dissolve the ottos in the spirit1 then add the rose-water4 ,after filtration it is ready for sale4 ,when compounds of this kind do not become bright by passing through blotting-paper1 the addition of a little carbonate of magnesia prior to filtering effectually clears them4 ,the water in the above recipe is only added in order that the article produced may be retailed at a moderate price1 and would1 of course1 be better without that universal friend4 ,,jasmine4-- ,luxuriant above all1 ,the jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets4 ,this flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer4 ,its odor is delicate and sweet1 and so peculiar that it is without comparison1 and as such cannot be imitated4 ,when the flowers of the ,jasminum odoratissimum are distilled1 repeatedly using the water of distillation over fresh flowers1 the essential oil of jasmine may be procured4 ,it is1 however1 exceedingly rare1 on account of the enormous cost of production4 ,there was a fine sample of six ounces exhibited in the ,tunisian department of the ,crystal ,palace1 the price of which was #il4 the fluid ounce6 ,the plant is the ,yasmyn of the ,arabs1 from which our name is derived4 ,in the perfumer's laboratory1 the method of obtaining the odor is by absorption1 or1 as the ,french term it1 enfleurage2 that is1 by spreading a mixture of pure lard and suet on a glass tray1 and sticking the fresh-gathered flowers all over it1 leaving them to stand a day or so1 and repeating the operation with fresh flowers--the grease absorbs the odor4 ,finally1 the pomade is scraped off the glass or slate1 melted at as low a temperature as possible1 and strained4 ,oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also prepared much in the same way4 ,layers of cotton wool1 previously steeped in oil of ben 7obtained by pressure from the blanched nuts of the ,moringa oleifera7 are covered with jasmine flowers1 which is repeated several times2 finally1 the cotton or linen cloths which some perfumers use1 are squeezed under a press4 ,the jasmine oil thus produced is the ,huile antique au jasmin of the ,french houses4 ,the extract of jasmine is prepared by pouring rectified spirit on the jasmine pomade or oil1 and allowing them to remain together for a fortnight at a summer heat4 ,the best quality extract requires two pounds of pomatum to every quart of spirit4 ,the same can be done with the oil of jasmine4 ,if the pomade is used1 it must be cut up fine previously to being put into the spirit2 if the oil is used1 it must be shaken well together every two or more hours1 otherwise1 on account of its specific gravity1 the oil separates1 and but little surface is exposed to the spirit4 ,after the extract is strained off1 the washed pomatum or oil is still useful1 if remelted1 in the composition of pomatum for the hair1 and gives more satisfaction to a customer than any of the creams and balms1 c4 c41 made up and scented with essential oils2 the one smells of the flower1 the other a nondescript4 ,illustration3 ,jasmine4 ,the extract of jasmine enters into the composition of a great many of the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold by the ,english and ,french perfumers4 ,extract of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure1 but is one of those scents which1 though very gratifying at first1 becomes what people call sickly after exposure to the oxidizing influence of the air1 but if judiciously mixed with other perfumes of an opposite character is sure to please the most fastidious customer4 ,,jonquil4--,the scent of the jonquil is very beautiful2 for perfumery purposes it is however but little cultivated in comparison with jasmine and tubereuse4 ,it is prepared exactly as jasmine4 ,the ,parisian perfumers sell a mixture which they call extract of jonquil4 ,the plant1 however1 only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring1 giving it its name4 ,the so-called jonquil is made thus3-- ,spirituous extract of jasmine pomade1 #a pint4 tubereuse #a fleur d'orange1 #a_/b ,extract of vanilla1 #b fluid ounces4 ,,laurel4--,by distillation from the berries of the ,laurus nobilis1 and from the leaves of the ,laurus cerasus1 an oil and perfumed water are procurable of a very beautiful and fragrant character4 ,commercially1 however1 it is disregarded1 as from the similarity of odor to the oil distilled from the bitter almond1 it is rarely1 if ever1 used by the perfumer1 the latter being more economical4 ,,lavender4--,the climate of ,england appears to be better adapted for the perfect development of this fine old favorite perfume than any other on the globe4 ,the ancients1 says ,burnett1 employed the flowers and the leaves to aromatize their baths1 and to give a sweet scent to water in which they washed2 hence the generic name of the plant1 ,lavandula4 ,lavender is grown to an enormous extent at ,mitcham1 in ,surrey1 which is the seat of its production1 in a commercial point of view4 ,very large quantities are also grown in ,france1 but the fine odor of the ,british produce realizes in the market four times the price of that of ,continental growth4 ,burnett says that the oil of ,lavandula spica is more pleasant than that derived from the other species1 but this statement must not mislead the purchaser to buy the ,french spike lavender1 as it is not worth a tenth of that derived from the ,lavandulae verae4 ,half-a-hundred weight of good lavender flowers yield1 by distillation1 from #ad to #af oz4 of essential oil4 ,all the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for perfuming soaps and greases2 but the best1 that obtained from the ,mitcham lavender1 is entirely used in the manufacture of what is called lavender water1 but which1 more properly1 should be called essence or extract of lavender1 to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences prepared with spirit4 ,the number of formulae published for making a liquid perfume of lavender is almost endless1 but the whole of them may be resolved into essence of lavender1 simple2 essence of lavender1 compound2 and lavender water4 ,there are two methods of making essence of lavender3--#a4 ,by distilling a mixture of essential oil of lavender and rectified spirit2 and the other--#b4 ,by merely mixing the oil and the spirit together4 ,the first process yields the finest quality3 it is that which is adopted by the firm of ,smyth and ,nephew1 whose reputation for this article is such that it gives a good character in foreign markets1 especially ,india1 to all products of lavender of ,english manufacture4 ,lavender essence1 that which is made by the still1 is quite white1 while that by mixture only always has a yellowish tint1 which by age becomes darker and resinous4 ,,smyth',s ,,lavender4 ,to produce a very fine distillate1 take-- ,otto of ,english ,lavender1 #d oz4 ,rectified spirit 7#fj over proof71 #e pints4 ,rose-water1 #a pint4 ,mix and distil five pints for sale4 ,such essence of lavender is expensive1 but at #ajs4 a pint of #ad oz6 there is a margin for profit4 ,it not being convenient to the general dealer to sell distilled lavender essence1 the following form1 by mixture1 will produce a first-rate article1 and nearly as white as the above4 ,,essence ,,of ,,lavender4 ,otto of lavender1 #c-a_/b oz4 ,rectified spirit1 #b quarts4 ,the perfumer's retail price for such quality is #hs4 per pint of #ad oz4 ,many perfumers and druggists in making lavender water or essence1 use a small portion of bergamot1 with an idea of improving its quality--a very erroneous opinion2 moreover1 such lavender quickly discolors4 ,,lavender ,,water4--,take3 ,english oil of lavender1 #d oz4 ,spirit1 #c quarts4 ,rose-water1 #a pint4 ,filter as above1 and it is ready for sale4 ,,common ,,lavender ,,water4--,same form as the above1 substituting ,french lavender for the ,british4 ,recipes for ,rondeletia1 ,lavender ,bouquet1 and other lavender compounds1 will be given when we come to speak of compound perfumes1 which will be reserved until we have finished explaining the method of making the simple essences4 ,,lemon4--,this fine perfume is abstracted from the ,citrus limonum1 by expression1 from the rind of the fruit4 ,the otto of lemons in the market is principally from ,messina1 where there are hundreds of acres of lemon groves4 ,otto of lemons1 like all the ottos of the ,citrus family1 is rapidly prone to oxidation when in contact with air and exposure to light2 a high temperature is also detrimental1 and as such is the case it should be preserved in a cool cellar4 ,most of the samples from the gas-heated shelves of the druggists' shops1 are as much like essence of turpentine1 to the smell1 as that of lemons2 rancid oil of lemons may1 in a great measure1 be purified by agitation with warm water and final decantation4 ,when new and good1 lemon otto may be freely used in combination with rosemary1 cloves1 and caraway1 for perfuming powders for the nursery4 ,from its rapid oxidation1 it should not be used for perfuming grease1 as it assists rather than otherwise all fats to turn rancid2 hence pomatums so perfumed will not keep well4 ,in the manufacture of other compound perfumes1 it should be dissolved in spirit1 in the proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit4 ,there is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the manufacture of ,eau de ,cologne2 that ,farina uses it is easily discovered by adding a few drops of ,liq4 ,ammoniae fort4 to half an ounce of his ,eau de ,cologne1 the smell of the lemon is thereby brought out in a remarkable manner4 ,perhaps it is not out of place here to remark1 that in attempts to discover the composition of certain perfumes1 we are greatly assisted by the use of strong ,liq4 ,ammoniae4 ,certain of the essential oils combining with the ,ammonia1 allow those which do not do so1 if present in the compound1 to be smelt4 ,,lemon ,,grass4--,according to ,pereira1 the otto in the market under this name is derived from the ,andropogon schoenanthus a species of grass which grows abundantly in ,india4 ,it is cultivated to a large extent in ,ceylon and in the ,moluccas purposely for the otto1 which from the plant is easily procured by distillation4 ,lemon grass otto1 or1 as it is sometimes called1 oil of verbena1 on account of its similarity of odor to that favorite plant1 is imported into this country in old ,english porter and stout bottles4 ,it is very powerful1 well adapted for perfuming soaps and greases1 but its principal consumption is in the manufacture of artificial essence of verbena4 ,from its comparatively low price1 great strength1 and fine perfume 7when diluted71 the lemon grass otto may be much more used than at present1 with considerable advantage to the retail shopkeeper4 ,,lilac4--,the fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental shrub is well known4 ,the essence of lilac is obtained either by the process of maceration1 or enfleurage with grease1 and afterwards treating the pomatum thus formed with rectified spirit1 in the same manner as previously described for cassie2 the odor so much resembles tubereuse1 as to be frequently used to adulterate the latter1 the demand for tubereuse being at all times greater than the supply4 ,a beautiful ,,imitation ,,of ,,essence ,,of ,,white ,,lilac may be compounded thus3-- ,spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade1 #a pint4 of orange-flower pomade1 #a_/d ,otto of almonds1 #c drops4 ,extract of civet1 #a_/b oz4 ,the civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the handkerchief4 ,,lily4--,the manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of the inspired writer1 to consider the lilies of the field4 ,rich as they are in odor1 they are not cultivated for their perfume4 ,if lilies are thrown into oil of sweet almonds1 or ben oil1 they impart to it their sweet smell2 but to obtain anything like fragrance1 the infusion must be repeated a dozen times with the same oil1 using fresh flowers for each infusion1 after standing a day or so4 ,the oil being shaken with an equal quantity of spirit for a week1 gives up its odor to the alcohol1 and thus extract of lilies may be made4 ,but how it is made is thus3-- ,,imitation ,,lily ,,of ,,the ,,valley4 ,extract of tubereuse1 #a_/b pint4 jasmine1 #a oz4 fleur d'orange1 #b oz4 vanilla1 #c oz4 cassie1 #a_/d pint4 rose1 #a_/d ,otto of almonds1 #c drops4 ,keep this mixture together for a month1 and then bottle it for sale4 ,it is a perfume that is very much admired4 ,,mace4--,ground mace is used in the manufacture of some of those scented powders called ,sachets4 ,a strong-smelling essential oil may be procured from it by distillation1 but it is rarely used4 ,,magnolia4--,the perfume of this flower is superb2 practically1 however1 it is of little use to the manufacturer1 the large size of the blossoms and their comparative scarcity prevents their being used1 but a very excellent imitation of its odor is made as under1 and is that which is found in the perfumers' shops of ,london and ,paris4 ,,imitation ,,essence ,,of ,,magnolia4 ,spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum1 #a pint4 rose pomatum1 #b pints4 tubereuse pomatum1 #a_/b pint4 violet pomatum1 #a_/b ,essential oil of citron1 #c drs4 almonds1 #aj drops4 ,,marjoram4--,the otto procured by distilling ,origanum majorana1 commonly called oil of oringeat by the ,french1 is exceedingly powerful1 and in this respect resembles all the ottos from the different species of thyme1 of which the marjoram is one4 ,one hundred weight of the dry herb yields about ten ounces of the otto4 ,oringeat oil is extensively used for perfuming soap1 but more in ,france than in ,england4 ,it is the chief ingredient used by ,gelle ,freres1 of ,paris1 for scenting their ,tablet ,monstre ,soap1 so common in the ,london shops4 ,,meadow ,,sweet4--,a sweet-smelling otto can be produced by distilling the ,spiraea ulmaria1 but it is not used by perfumers4 ,,melissa4 ,see ,,balm4 ,,mignonette4--,but for the exquisite odor of this little flower1 it would scarcely be known otherwise than as a weed4 ,sweet as it is in its natural state1 and prolific in odor1 we are not able to maintain its characteristic smell as an essence4 ,like many others1 during separation from the plant1 the fragrance is more or less modified2 though not perfect1 it still reminds the sense of the odor of the flowers4 ,to give it that sweetness which it appears to want1 a certain quantity of violet is added to bring it up to the market odor4 ,as this plant is so very prolific in odor1 we think something might be done with it in ,england1 especially as it flourishes as well in this country as in ,france2 and we desire to see ,flower ,farms and organized ,perfumatories established in the ,british ,isles1 for the extraction of essences and the manufacture of pomade and oils1 of such flowers as are indigenous1 or that thrive in the open fields of our country4 ,besides opening up a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital1 it would give healthy employment to many women and children4 ,open air employment for the young is of no little consideration to maintain the stamina of the future generation2 for it cannot be denied that our factory system and confined cities are prejudicial to the physical condition of the human family4 ,to return from our digression4 ,the essence of mignonette1 or1 as it is more often sold under the name of ,extrait de ,rezeda1 is prepared by infusing the rezeda pomade in rectified spirit1 in the proportion of one pound of pomade to one pint of spirit1 allowing them to digest together for a fortnight1 when the essence is filtered off the pomade4 ,one ounce of extrait d'ambre is added to every pint4 ,this is done to give permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief1 and does not in any way alter its odor4 ,,miribane4--,the ,french name for artificial essence of almond 7see ,,almond74 ,,mint4--,all the ,menthidae yield fragrant ottos by distillation4 ,the otto of the spear-mint 7,m4 viridis7 is exceedingly powerful1 and very valuable for perfuming soap1 in conjunction with other perfumes4 ,perfumers use the ottos of the mint in the manufacture of mouth-washes and dental liquids4 ,the leading ingredient in the celebrated eau ,botot is oil of peppermint in alcohol4 ,a good imitation may be made thus3-- ,,eau ,,de ,,botot4 ,tincture of cedar wood1 #a pint4 myrrh1 #a oz4 ,oil of peppermint1 #a_/b dr4 spear mint1 #a_/d dr4 cloves1 #aj drops4 roses1 #aj ,modifications of this formula can be readily suggested1 but the main object is to retain the mint ottos1 as they have more power than any other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco4 ,mouth-washes1 it must be remembered1 are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a dentifrice4 ,,myrtle4--,a very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle2 one hundred-weight will yield about five ounces of the volatile oil4 ,the demand for essence of myrtle being very limited1 the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is very rarely a genuine article1 but it is imitated thus3-- ,,imitation ,,essence ,,of ,,myrtle4 ,extract of vanilla1 #a_/b pint4 roses #a ,extract of fleur d'orange1 #a_/b pint4 tubereuse1 #a_/b jasmine1 #b oz4 ,mix and allow to stand for a fortnight3 it is then fit for bottling1 and is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction4 ,myrtle-flower water is sold in ,france under the name of eau d'ange1 and may be prepared like rose1 elder1 or other flower waters4 ,,neroli1 ,,or ,,orange-,,flower4--,two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom1 varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them4 ,this difference of perfume from the same flower is a great advantage to the manufacturer4 ,this curious fact is worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher4 ,it is not peculiar to the orange-flower1 but applies to many others1 especially rose--probably to all flowers4 ,when orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process1 that is1 by infusion in a fatty body1 we procure orange-flower pomatum1 its strength and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower made in the same grease4 ,by digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of spirit1 for about a fortnight at a summer heat1 we obtain the extrait de fleur d'orange1 or extract of orange-flowers1 a handkerchief perfume surpassed by none4 ,in this state its odor resembles the original so much1 that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the scent of the extract from that of the flower4 ,the peculiar flowery odor of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers1 not only to sell in a pure state1 but slightly modified with other extraits passes for sweet pea1 magnolia1 c41 which it slightly resembles in fragrance4 ,illustration3 ,orange4 ,now1 when orange-flowers are distilled with water1 we procure the otto of the blossom1 which is known commercially as oil of neroli4 ,the neroli procured from the flowers of the ,citrus aurantium is considered to be the finest quality1 and is called neroli petale4 ,the next quality1 neroli bigarade1 is derived from the blossoms of the ,citrus bigaradia1 or ,seville orange4 ,another quality1 which is considered inferior to the preceding1 is the neroli petit grain1 obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus4 ,the petale and bigarade neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de ,cologne and other handkerchief perfumes4 ,the petit grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap4 ,to form the esprit de neroli1 dissolve #a-a_/b oz4 of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified spirits4 ,although very agreeable1 and extensively used in the manufacture of bouquets1 it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d'orange1 as derived from the same flowers by maceration2 in fact1 it has as different an odor as though obtained from another plant1 yet in theory both these extraits are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower4 ,the water used for distillation in procuring the neroli1 when well freed from the oil1 is imported into this country under the name of eau de fleur d'orange1 and may be used1 like elder-flower and rose-water1 for the skin1 and as an eye lotion4 ,it is remarkable for its fine fragrance1 and it is astonishing that it is not more used1 being moderate in price4 7,see ,syringa47 ,,nutmeg4--,the beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all4 ,though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character1 it is rarely used in perfumery4 ,the ground nuts are1 however1 used advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bags4--,see ,sachet's ,powders4 ,,olibanum is a gum resin1 used to a limited extent in this country1 in the manufacture of incense and pastilles4 ,it is chiefly interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention is made in the ,holy volume4,c ,it is believed1 says ,burnett1 to have been one of the ingredients in the sweet incense of the ,jews2 and it is still burnt as incense in the ,greek and ,romish churches1 where the diffusion of such odors round the altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service4 ,olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol1 and1 like most of the balsams1 probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body1 associated with the benzoic acid it contains4 ,for making the tincture or extract of olibanum1 take #a pound of the gum to #a gallon of the spirit4 ,,orange4--,under the title ,neroli we have already spoken of the odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom4 ,we have now to speak of what is known in the market as ,essence of ,orange1 or1 as it is more frequently termed1 ,essence of ,portugal1--a name1 however1 which we cannot admit in a classified list of the odors of plants4 ,the otto of orange-peel1 or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit1 is procured by expression and by distillation4 ,the peel is rasped in order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto4 ,its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of a candle2 the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant illumination4 ,it has many uses in perfumery1 and from its refreshing fragrance finds many admirers4 ,it is the leading ingredient in what is sold as ,lisbon ,water and ,eau de ,portugal4 ,the following is a very useful form for preparing ,,lisbon ,,water4 ,rectified spirit 7not less than #fj over proof71 #a gallon4 ,otto of orange peel1 #c oz4 lemon peel1 #c oz4 rose #a_/d oz4 ,this is a form for ,,eau ,,de ,,portugal4 ,rectified spirit 7#fj over proof71 #a gallon4 ,essential oil of orange peel1 #f oz4 lemon peel1 #a oz4 lemon grass1 #a_/d oz4 bergamot1 #a oz4 otto of rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,it should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet bottles1 for if in any way damp from water1 a minute portion of the ottos are separated1 which gives an opalescent appearance to the mixture4 ,indeed1 all bottles should be spirit rinsed prior to being filled with any perfume1 but especially with those containing essences of orange or lemon peel4 ,,orris1 properly ,,iris4--,the dried rhizome of ,iris florentina has a very pleasant odor1 which1 for the want of a better comparison1 is said to resemble the smell of violets2 it is1 however1 exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when such invidious comparisons are made4 ,nevertheless the perfume of iris root is good1 and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a perfuming substance4 ,the powder of orris root is very extensively used in the manufacture of sachet powders1 tooth-powder1 c4 ,it fathers that celebrated oriental herb known as ,odonto4 ,for tincture of orris1 or1 as the perfumers call it1 ,,extract ,,of ,,orris1 ,take orris root1 crushed1 #g lbs4 ,rectified spirits1 #a gallon4 ,after standing together for about a fortnight1 the extract is fit to take off4 ,it requires considerable time to drain away1 and1 to prevent loss1 the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press4 ,this extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated bouquets1 such as ,jockey ,club1 and others1 but is never sold alone1 because its odor1 although grateful1 is not sufficiently good to stand public opinion upon its own merits2 but in combination its value is very great2 possessing little aroma itself1 yet it has the power of strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies2 like the flint and steel1 which though comparatively incombustible1 readily fire inflammable bodies4 ,,palm4--,the odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to a fragrant principle which it contains4 ,by infusion in alcohol1 the odoriferous body is dissolved1 and resembles1 to a certain extent1 the tincture of orris1 or of extract of violet1 but is very indifferent1 and is not likely to be brought into use1 though several attempts have been made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have failed from bad seasons4 ,,patchouly4--,pogostemon patchouly 7,,lindley71 ,plectranthus crassifolius 7,,burnett71 is an herb that grows extensively in ,india and ,china4 ,it somewhat resembles our garden sage in its growth and form1 but the leaves are not so fleshy4 ,illustration3 ,patchouly4 ,the odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and stems1 and is readily procured by distillation4 #a cwt4 of good herb will yield about #bh oz4 of the essential oil1 which is of a dark brown color1 and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood1 which it resembles in its physical character4 ,its odor is the most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom2 hence1 if mixed in the proportion of measure for measure1 it completely covers the smell of all other bodies4 ,,extract ,,of ,,patchouly4 ,rectified spirit1 #a gallon4 ,otto of patchouly1 #a-a_/d oz4 rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,the essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found in the perfumers' shops of ,paris and ,london4 ,although few perfumes have had such a fashionable run1 yet when smelled at in its pure state1 it is far from agreeable1 having a kind of mossy or musty odor1 analogous to ,lycopodium1 or1 as some say1 it smells of old coats4 ,the characteristic smell of ,chinese or ,indian ink is due to some admixture of this herb4 ,the origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in ,europe is curious4 ,a few years ago real ,indian shawls bore an extravagant price1 and purchasers could always distinguish them by their odor2 in fact1 they were perfumed with patchouly4 ,the ,french manufacturers had for some time successfully imitated the ,indian fabric1 but could not impart the odor4 ,at length they discovered the secret1 and began to import the plant to perfume articles of their make1 and thus palm off homespun shawls as real ,indian6 ,from this origin the perfumers have brought it into use4 ,patchouly herb is extensively used for scenting drawers in which linen is kept2 for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put them into muslin sacks1 covered with silk1 after the manner of the old-fashioned lavender-bag4 ,in this state it is very efficacious in preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths4 ,several combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes for bouquets and nosegays4 ,,pea 7,,sweet74--,a very fine odor may be abstracted from the flowers of the chick-vetch by maceration in any fatty body1 and then digesting the pomade produced in spirit4 ,it is1 however1 rarely manufactured1 because a very close ,,imitation ,,of ,,the ,,essence ,,of ,,sweet ,,pea4 can be prepared thus3-- ,extract of tuberose1 #a_/b pint4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/b rose from pomatum1 #a_/b vanilla1 #a oz4 ,scents1 like sounds1 appear to influence the olfactory nerve in certain definite degrees4 ,there is1 as it were1 an octave of odors like an octave in music2 certain odors coincide1 like the keys of an instrument4 ,such as almond1 heliotrope1 vanilla1 and orange-blossoms blend together1 each producing different degrees of a nearly similar impression4 ,again1 we have citron1 lemon1 orange-peel1 and verbena1 forming a higher octave of smells1 which blend in a similar manner4 ,the metaphor is completed by what we are pleased to call semi-odors1 such as rose and rose geranium for the half note2 petty grain1 neroli1 a black key1 followed by fleur d'orange4 ,then we have patchouli1 sandal-wood1 and vitivert1 and many others running into each other4 ,from the odors already known we may produce1 by uniting them in proper proportion1 the smell of almost any flower1 except jasmine4 ,the odor of some flowers resembles others so nearly that we are almost induced to believe them to be the same thing1 or1 at least1 if not evolved from the plant as such1 to become so by the action of the air-oxidation4 ,it is known that some actually are identical in composition1 although produced from totally different plants1 such as camphor1 turpentine1 rosemary4 ,hence we may presume that chemistry will sooner or later produce one from the other1 for with many it is merely an atom of water or an atom of oxygen that causes the difference4 ,it would be a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rosemary1 or from the rose geranium oil1 and theory indicates its possibility4 ,the essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains a good deal of air-oxygen1 and but a very little of the oil1 spontaneously passes into another odoriferous body1 benzoic acid2 which is seen in crystals to form over the dry parts of the flask4 ,this is a natural illustration of this idea4 ,in giving the recipe for sweet pea as above1 we form it with the impression that its odor resembles the orange-blossom1 which similarity is approached nearer by the addition of the rose and tuberose4 ,the vanilla is used merely to give permanence to the scent on the handkerchief1 and this latter body is chosen in preference to extract of musk or ambergris1 which would answer the same purpose of giving permanence to the more volatile ingredients2 because the vanilla strikes the same key of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom1 and thus no new idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume dies off from the handkerchief4 ,when perfumes are not mixed upon this principle1 then we hear that such and such a perfume becomes sickly or faint after they have been on the handkerchief a short time4 ,,pine-,,apple4--,both ,dr4 ,hoffman and ,dr4 ,lyon ,playfair have fallen into some error in their inferences with regard to the application of this odor in perfumery4 ,after various practical experiments conducted in a large perfumatory1 we have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so applied1 simply because when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at1 the vapor produces an involuntary action of the larynx1 producing cough1 when exceedingly dilute4 ,even in the infinitesimal portions it still produces disagreeable irritation of the air-pipes1 which1 if prolonged1 such as is expected if used upon a handkerchief1 is followed by intense headache4 ,it is obvious1 therefore1 that the legitimate use of the essence of pine-apple 7butyric ether7 cannot be adapted with benefit to the manufacturing perfumer1 although invaluable to the confectioner as a flavoring material4 ,what we have here said refers to the artificial essence of pine-apple1 or butyrate of ethyloxide1 which1 if very much diluted with alcohol1 resembles the smell of pine-apple1 and hence its name2 but how far the same observations are applicable to the true essential oil from the fruit or epidermis of the pine-apple1 remains to be seen when we procure it4 ,as the ,west ,indian pine-apples are now coming freely into the market1 the day is probably not distant when demonstrative experiments can be tried2 but hitherto it must be remembered our experiments have only been performed with a body resembling in smell the true essential oil of the fruit4 ,the physical action of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to prevent their application in perfumery1 however useful in confectionary1 which it is understood has to deal with another of the senses1--not of smell1 but of taste4 ,the commercial essence of pine-apple1 or pine-apple oil1 and jargonelle pear-oil1 are admitted only to be labelled such1 but really are certain organic acid ethers4 ,for the present1 then1 perfumers must only look on these bodies as so many lines in the ,poetry of ,science1 which1 for the present1 are without practical application in his art4 ,,pink4--,dianthus ,caryophyllus4--,the clove pink emits a most fragrant odor1 especially at night1 says ,darwin4 ,the lavish pink that scents the garden round1 is not1 however1 at present applied in perfumery1 except in name4 ,,imitation ,,essence ,,of ,,clove ,,pink4 ,esprit rose1 #a_/b pint4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/d de cassie1 #a_/d vanilla1 #b oz4 ,oil of cloves1 #aj drops4 ,it is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower1 and the public never doubt its being the real thing4 ,,rhodium4--,when rose-wood1 the lignum of the ,convolvulus scoparius1 is distilled1 a sweet-smelling oil is procured1 resembling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose1 and hence its name4 ,at one time1 that is1 prior to the cultivation of the rose-leaf geranium1 the distillates from rose-wood and from the root of the ,genista canariensis 7,canary-rose-wood71 were principally drawn for the adulteration of real otto of roses1 but as the geranium oil answers so much better1 the oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse1 hence its comparative scarcity in the market at the present day1 though our grandfathers knew it well4 ,one cwt4 of wood yields about three ounces of oil4 ,ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manufacture of sachet powders for perfuming the wardrobe4 ,the ,french have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood1 under the idea that the plant called jacaranda by the ,brazilians yields it1 which is not the case2 the same word has perhaps been the origin of palisander--palixander1 badly written4--,burnett4 ,,rose4-- ,go1 crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom1 ,and waft its spoils1 a sweet perfume1 ,in incense to the skies4 ,,ogilvie4 ,this queen of the garden loses not its diadem in the perfuming world4 ,the oil of roses1 or1 as it is commonly called1 the otto1 or attar1 of roses1 is procured 7contrary to so many opposite statements7 simply by distilling the roses with water4 ,the otto1 or attar1 of rose of commerce is derived from the ,rosa centifolia provincialis4 ,very extensive rose farms exist at ,adrianople 7,turkey in ,europe72 at ,broussa1 now famous as the residence of ,abd-el-,kader2 and at ,uslak 7,turkey in ,asia72 also at ,ghazepore1 in ,india4 ,the cultivators in ,turkey are principally the ,christian inhabitants of the low countries of the ,balkan1 between ,selimno1 and ,carloya1 as far as ,philippopolis1 in ,bulgaria1 about #bjj miles from ,constantinople4 ,in good seasons1 this district yields #ge1jjj ounces2 but in bad seasons only #bj1jjj to #cj1jjj ounces of attar are obtained4 ,it is estimated that it requires at least #bjjj rose blooms to yield one drachm of otto4 ,the otto slightly varies in odor from different districts2 many places furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than others1 and1 therefore1 this is not a sure guide of purity1 though many consider it such4 ,that which was exhibited in the ,crystal ,palace of #ahea1 as from ,ghazepore1 in ,india1 obtained the prize4 ,attar of roses1 made in ,cashmere1 is considered superior to any other2 a circumstance not surprising1 as1 according to ,hugel1 the flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty4 ,a large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run off into an open vessel1 placed over night in a cool running stream1 and in the morning the oil is found floating on the surface in minute specks1 which are taken off very carefully by means of a blade of sword-lily4 ,when cool it is of a dark green color1 and as hard as resin1 not becoming liquid at a temperature about that of boiling water4 ,between #ejj and #fjj pounds' weight of leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar4--,indian ,encyclopaedia4 ,pure otto of roses1 from its cloying sweetness1 has not many admirers2 when diluted1 however1 there is nothing to equal it in odor1 especially if mixed in soap1 to form rose soap1 or in pure spirit1 to form the esprit de rose4 ,the soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very fast1 we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto4 ,the finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at ,grasse1 in ,france4 ,here the flowers are not treated for the otto1 but are subjected to the process of maceration in fat1 or in oil1 as described under jasmine1 heliotrope1 c4 ,the rose pomade thus made1 if digested in alcohol1 say #h lbs4 of ,no4 #bd ,pomade to one gallon of spirit1 yields an esprit de rose of the first order1 very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to spirit4 ,it is difficult to account for this difference1 but it is sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor4 ,see the article on fleur d'orange and neroli 7pp4 #gg1 #gh71 which have similar qualities1 previously described4 ,the esprit de rose made from the ,french rose pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer2 he reserves this to form part of his recherche bouquets4 ,some wholesale druggists have1 however1 been selling it now for some time to country practitioners1 for them to form extemporaneous rose-water1 which it does to great perfection4 ,roses are cultivated to a large extent in ,england1 near ,mitcham1 in ,surrey1 for perfumers' use1 to make rose-water4 ,in the season when successive crops can be got1 which is about the end of ,june1 or the early part of ,july1 they are gathered as soon as the dew is off1 and sent to town in sacks4 ,when they arrive1 they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor3 otherwise1 if left in a heap1 they heat to such an extent1 in two or three hours1 as to be quite spoiled4 ,there is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs oxygen1 and becomes heated spontaneously1 as a mass of freshly gathered roses4 ,to preserve these roses1 the ,london perfumers immediately pickle them2 for this purpose1 the leaves are separated from the stalks1 and to every bushel of flowers1 equal to about six pounds' weight1 one pound of common salt is thoroughly rubbed in4 ,the salt absorbs the water existing in the petals1 and rapidly becomes brine1 reducing the whole to a pasty mass1 which is finally stowed away in casks4 ,in this way they will keep almost any length of time1 without the fragrance being seriously injured4 ,a good rose-water can be prepared by distilling #ab lbs4 of pickled roses1 and #b-a_/b gallons of water4 ,draw off two gallons2 the product will be the double-distilled rose-water of the shops4 ,the rose-water that is imported from the ,south of ,france is1 however1 very superior in odor to any that can be produced here4 ,as it is a residuary product of the distillation of roses for procuring the attar1 it has a richness of aroma which appears to be inimitable with ,english-grown roses4 ,there are four modifications of essence of rose for the handkerchief1 which are the ne plus ultra of the perfumer's art4 ,they are1--esprit de rose triple1 essence of white of roses1 essence of tea rose1 and essence of moss rose4 ,the following are the recipes for their formation3-- ,,esprit ,,de ,,rose ,,triple4 ,rectified alcohol1 #a gallon4 ,otto of rose1 #c oz4 ,mix at a summer heat2 in the course of a quarter of an hour the whole of the otto is dissolved1 and is then ready for bottling and sale4 ,in the winter season beautiful crystals of the otto--if it is good--appear disseminated through the esprit4 ,,essence ,,of ,,moss ,,rose4 ,spirituous extract from ,french ,rose pomatum1 #a quart4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a pint4 ,extracts fleur d'orange pomatum1 #a of ambergris1 #a_/b musk1 #d oz4 ,allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight2 then filter1 if requisite1 and it is ready for sale4 ,,essence ,,of ,,white ,,rose4 ,esprit de rose from pomatum1 #a quart4 triple1 #a violette1 #a ,extracts of jasmine #a pint4 patchouly1 #a_/b ,,essence ,,of ,,tea ,,rose4 ,esprit de rose pomade1 #a pint4 triple1 #a ,extract of rose-leaf geranium1 #a sandal-wood1 #a_/b neroli1 #a_/d orris1 #a_/d ,,rosemary4-- ,there's rosemary1 that's for remembrance4 ,,shakspeare4 ,by distilling the ,rosmarinus officinalis a thin limpid otto is procured1 having the characteristic odor of the plant1 which is more aromatic than sweet4 ,one cwt4 of the fresh herb yields about twenty-four ounces of oil4 ,otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery1 especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap4 ,eau de ,cologne cannot be made without it1 and in the once famous ,hungary water it is the leading ingredient4 ,the following is the composition of ,,hungary ,,water4 ,rectified alcohol1 #a gallon4 ,otto of ,english rosemary1 #b oz4 lemon-peel1 #a oz4 balm 7,melissa71 #a oz4 mint1 #a_/b drachm4 ,esprit de rose1 #a pint4 ,extract of fleur d'orange1 #a ,it is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de ,cologne1 and is said to take its name from one of the queens of ,hungary1 who is reported to have derived great benefit from a bath containing it1 at the age of seventy-five years4 ,there is no doubt that clergymen and orators1 while speaking for any time1 would derive great benefit from perfuming their handkerchief with ,hungary water or eau de ,cologne1 as the rosemary they contain excites the mind to vigorous action1 sufficient of the stimulant being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the handkerchief wetted with these waters4 ,shakspeare giving us the key1 we can understand how it is that such perfumes containing rosemary are universally said to be so refreshing6 ,,sage4--,a powerful-scenting otto can be procured by distillation from any of the ,salvieae4 ,it is rarely used1 but is nevertheless very valuable in combination for scenting soap4 ,dried sage-leaves1 ground1 will compound well for sachets4 ,,santal4--,santalum album4 ,the santal tree perfumes1 when riven1 ,the axe that laid it low4 ,,cameron4 ,this is an old favorite with the lovers of scent2 it is the wood that possesses the odor4 ,the finest santal-wood grows in the island of ,timor1 and the ,santal-wood ,islands1 where it is extensively cultivated for the ,chinese market4 ,in the religious ceremonies of the ,brahmins1 ,hindoos1 and ,chinese1 santal-wood is burned1 by way of incense1 to an extent almost beyond belief4 ,the ,santala grew plentifully in ,china1 but the continued offerings to the ,buddahs have almost exterminated the plant from the ,celestial ,empire2 and such is the demand1 that it is about to be cultivated in ,western ,australia1 in the expectation of a profitable return1 which we doubt not will be realized2 ,england alone would consume tenfold the quantity it does were its price within the range of other perfuming substances4 ,the otto which exists in the santal-wood is readily procured by distillation2 #a cwt4 of good wood will yield about #cj ounces of otto4 ,illustration3 ,santal-wood4 ,the white ant1 which is so common in ,india and ,china1 eating into every organic matter that it comes across1 appears to have no relish for santal-wood2 hence it is frequently made into caskets1 jewel-boxes1 deed-cases1 c4 ,this quality1 together with its fragrance1 renders it a valuable article to the cabinet-makers of the ,east4 ,the otto of santal is remarkably dense1 and is above all others oleaginous in its appearance1 and1 when good1 is of a dark straw color4 ,when dissolved in spirit1 it enters into the composition of a great many of the old-fashioned bouquets1 such as ,marechale1 and others1 the formulae of which will be given hereafter4 ,perfumers thus make what is called ,,extrait ,,de ,,bois ,,de ,,santal4 ,rectified spirits1 #g pints4 ,esprit de rose1 #a pint4 ,essential oil1 i4e4 otto1 of santal1 #c oz4 ,all those ,,extracts1 made by dissolving the otto in alcohol1 are nearly white1 or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil used4 ,when a perfumer has to impart a delicate odeur to a lady's mouchoir1 which in some instances costs no end of money1 and is an object1 at any cost1 to retain unsullied1 it behooves his reputation to sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric4 ,now1 when a perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb1 as tinctures are made1 that is1 by infusion in alcohol1 there is obtained1 besides the odoriferous substance1 a solution of coloring and extractive matter1 which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance1 besides seriously staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon2 and for this reason this latter method should never be adopted1 except for use upon silk handkerchiefs4 ,the odor of santal assimilates well with rose2 and hence1 prior to the cultivation of rose-leaf geranium1 it was used to adulterate otto of roses2 but is now but seldom used for that purpose4 ,by a phonetic error1 santal is often printed sandal1 and sandel4 ,,sassafras4--,some of the perfumers of ,germany use a tincture of the wood of the ,laurus sassafras in the manufacture of hair-washes and other nostrums2 but as1 in our opinion1 it has rather a physicky smell than flowery1 we cannot recommend the ,german recipes4 ,the ,eau ,athenienne1 notwithstanding1 has some reputation as a hair-water1 but is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras4 ,,spike4--,french oil of lavender1 which is procured from the ,lavandula spica1 is generally called oil of spike4 7,see ,lavender47 ,,storax and ,,tolu are used in perfumery in the same way as benzoin1 namely1 by solution in spirit as a tincture4 ,an ounce of tincture of storax1 tolu1 or benzoin1 being added to a pound of any very volatile perfume1 gives a degree of permanence to it1 and makes it last longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would3 thus1 when any perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit1 it is usual to add to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile1 such as extract of musk1 extract of vanilla1 ambergris1 storax1 tolu1 orris1 vitivert1 or benzoin2 the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion as to which of these materials are to be employed1 choosing1 of course1 those which are most compatible with the odor he is making4 ,the power which these bodies have of fixing a volatile substance1 renders them valuable to the perfumer1 independent of their aroma1 which is due in many cases to benzoic acid1 slightly modified by an esential oil peculiar to each substance1 and which is taken up by the alcohol1 together with a portion of resin4 ,when the perfume is put upon a handkerchief1 the most volatile bodies disappear first3 thus1 after the alcohol has evaporated1 the odor of the ottos appear stronger2 if it contains any resinous body1 the ottos are held in solution1 as it were1 by the resin1 and thus retained on the fabric4 ,supposing a perfume to be made of otto only1 without any fixing substance1 then1 as the perfume dies away1 the olfactory nerve1 if tutored1 will detect its composition1 for it spontaneously analyzes itself1 no two ottos having the same volatility3 thus1 make a mixture of rose1 jasmine1 and patchouly2 the jasmine predominates first1 then the rose1 and1 lastly1 the patchouly1 which will be found hours after the others have disappeared4 ,,syringa4--,the flowers of the ,philadelphus coronarius1 or common garden syringa1 have an intense odor resembling the orange-blossom2 so much so1 that in ,america the plant is often termed mock orange4 ,a great deal of the pomatum sold as pommade surfin1 a la fleur d'orange1 by the manufacturers of ,cannes1 is nothing more than fine suet perfumed with syringa blossoms by the maceration process4 ,fine syringa pomade could be made in ,england at a quarter the cost of what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum4 ,,thyme4--,all the different species of thyme1 but more particularly the lemon thyme1 the ,thymus serpyllum1 as well as the marjorams1 origanum1 c41 yield by distillation fragrant ottos1 that are extensively used by manufacturing perfumers for scenting soaps2 though well adapted for this purpose1 they do not answer at all in any other combinations4 ,both in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart an herby smell 7very naturally7 rather than a flowery one1 and1 as a consequence1 they are not considered recherche4 ,when any of these herbs are dried and ground1 they usefully enter into the composition of sachet powders4 ,,tonquin1 or ,,tonka4--,the seeds of the ,dipterix odorata are the tonquin or coumarouma beans of commerce4 ,when fresh they are exceedingly fragrant1 having an intense odor of newly made hay4 ,the ,anthoxanthum odoratum1 or sweet-smelling vernal grass1 to which new hay owes its odor1 probably yields identically the same fragrant principle1 and it is remarkable that both tonquin beans and vernal grass1 while actually growing1 are nearly scentless1 but become rapidly aromatic when severed from the parent stock4 ,chemically considered1 tonquin beans are very interesting1 containing1 when fresh1 a fragrant volatile otto 7to which their odor is principally due71 benzoic acid1 a fat oil and a neutral principal--,coumarin4 ,in perfumery they are valuable1 as1 when ground1 they form with other bodies an excellent and permanent sachet1 and by infusion in spirit1 the tincture or extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the compound essences2 but on account of its great strength it must be used with caution1 otherwise people say your perfume is snuffy1 owing to the predominance of the odor and its well-known use in the boxes of those who indulge in the titillating dust4 ,illustration3 ,tonquin4 ,,extract ,,of ,,tonquin4 ,tonquin beans1 #a lb4 ,rectified spirit1 #a gallon4 ,digest for a month at a summer heat4 ,even after this maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in those compounds known as ,,pot ,,pourri1 ,,olla ,,podria1 c4 ,the extract of tonquin1 like extract of orris and extract of vanilla1 is never sold pure1 but is only used in the manufacture of compound perfumes4 ,it is the leading ingredient in ,bouquet du ,champ--,the field ,bouquet--the great resemblance of which to the odor of the hay-field1 renders it a favorite to the lovers of the pastoral4 ,,tuberose4--,one of the most exquisite odors with which we are acquainted is obtained by enfleurage from the tuberose flower4 ,it is1 as it were1 a nosegay in itself1 and reminds one of that delightful perfume observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close2 consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for compounding sweet essences4 ,,extract ,,of ,,tuberose4 ,eight pounds of ,no4 #bd tuberose pomatum1 cut up very fine1 is to be placed into #a gallon of the best rectified spirit4 ,after standing for three weeks or a month at summer heat1 and with frequent agitation1 it is fit to draw off1 and being strained through cotton wool1 is ready either for sale or use in the manufacture of bouquets4 ,this essence of tuberose1 like that of jasmine1 is exceedingly volatile1 and if sold in its pure state quickly flies off the handkerchief2 it is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient1 and for this purpose it is best to use one ounce of extract of orris1 or half an ounce of extract of vanilla1 to every pint of tuberose4 ,,vanilla4--,the pod or bean of the ,vanilla planifolia yields a perfume of rare excellence4 ,when good1 and if kept for some time1 it becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals possessing properties similar to benzoic acid1 but differing from it in composition4 ,few objects are more beautiful to look upon than this1 when viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarized light4 ,illustration3 ,vanilla4 ,,extract ,,of ,,vanilla4 ,vanilla pods1 #a_/b lb4 ,rectified spirit1 #a gallon4 ,slit the pods from end to end1 so as to lay open the interior1 then cut them up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch1 macerate with occasional agitation for about a month2 the tincture thus formed will only require straining through cotton to be ready for any use that is required4 ,in this state it is rarely sold for a perfume1 but is consumed in the manufacture of compound odors1 bouquets1 or nosegays1 as they are called4 ,extract of ,vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture of hair-washes1 which are readily made by mixing the extract of vanilla with either rose1 orange1 elder1 or rosemary water1 and afterwards filtering4 ,we need scarcely mention1 that vanilla is greatly used by cooks and confectioners for flavoring4 ,,verbena1 or ,,vervaine4--,the scented species of this plant1 the lemon verbena1 ,aloysia citriodora 7,hooker71 gives one of the finest perfumes with which we are acquainted2 it is well known as yielding a delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the plant2 some of the little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be crushed in this act1 as there is little or no odor by merely smelling at the plant4 ,the otto1 which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with water1 on account of its high price1 is scarcely1 if ever1 used by the manufacturing perfumer1 but it is most successfully imitated by mixing the otto of lemon grass1 ,andropogon schoenanthus1 with rectified spirit1 the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety4 ,the following is a good form for making the ,,extract ,,of ,,verbena4 ,rectified spirit1 #a pint4 ,otto of lemon grass1 #c drachms4 lemon peel1 #b oz4 orange peel1 #a_/b oz4 ,after standing together for a few hours and then filtering1 it is fit for sale4 ,another mixture of this kind1 presumed by the public to be made from the same plant1 but of a finer quality1 is composed thus--it is sold under the title ,,extrait ,,de ,,verveine4 ,rectified spirit1 #a pint4 ,otto of orange peel1 #a oz4 lemon peel1 #b oz4 citron1 #a drachm4 lemon grass1 #b-a_/b drachms4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 #g oz4 tubereuse1 #g oz4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b pint4 ,this mixture is exceedingly refreshing1 and is one of the most elegant perfumes that is made4 ,being white1 it does not stain the handkerchief4 ,it is best when sold fresh made1 as by age the citrine oils oxidize1 and the perfume acquires an ethereal odor1 and then customers say it is sour4 ,the vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great many of the favorite bouquets that are sold under the title ,court ,bouquet1 and others which are mixtures of violet1 rose1 and jasmine1 with verbena or vervaine in different proportions4 ,in these preparations1 as also in ,eau de ,portugal1 and in fact where any of the citrine ottos are used1 a much finer product is obtained by using grape spirit or brandy in preference to the ,english corn spirit as a solvent for them4 ,nor do they deteriorate so quickly in ,french spirit as in ,english4 ,whether this be due to the oil of wine 7oeanthic ether7 or not we cannot say1 but think it is so4 ,,violet4-- ,the forward violet thus did ,i chide3 ,sweet thief1 whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells1 ,if not from my love's breath8 ,the perfume exhaled by the ,viola odorata is so universally admired1 that to speak in its favor would be more than superfluous4 ,the demand for the essence of violets is far greater than the manufacturing perfumers are at present able to supply1 and as a consequence1 it is difficult to procure the genuine article through the ordinary sources of trade4 ,real violet is1 however1 sold by many of the retail perfumers of the ,west ,end of ,london1 but at a price that prohibits its use except by the affluent or extravagant votaries of fashion4 ,the violet farms from whence the flowers are procured to make this perfume are very extensive at ,nice and ,grasse1 also in the neighborhood of ,florence4 ,the true smelling principle or otto of violets has never yet been isolated3 a very concentrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve with the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid1 which is probably a true impression4 ,burnett says that the plant ,viola tricolor 7heart's ease71 when bruised1 smells like peach kernels1 and doubtless1 therefore1 contains prussic acid4 ,the flowers of the heart's ease are scentless1 but the plant evidently contains a principle which in other species of the ,viola1 is eliminated as the sweet that smells so beautifully alluded to by ,shakspeare4 ,for commercial purposes1 the odor of the violet is procured in combination with spirit1 oil1 or suet1 precisely according to the methods previously described for obtaining the aroma of some other flowers before mentioned1 such as those for cassie1 jasmine1 orange-flower1 namely1 by maceration1 or by enfleurage1 the former method being principally adopted1 followed by1 when essence is required1 digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol4 ,good essence of violets1 thus made1 is of a beautiful green color1 and1 though of a rich deep tint1 has no power to stain a white fabric1 and its odor is perfectly natural4 ,the essence of violet1 as prepared for retail sale1 is thus made1 according to the quality and strength of the pomade3--,take from six to eight pounds of the violet pomade1 chop it up fine1 and place it into one gallon of perfectly clean 7free from fusel oil7 rectified spirit1 allow it to digest for three weeks or a month1 then strain off the essence1 and to every pint thereof add three ounces of tincture of orris root1 and three ounces of esprit de cassie2 it is then fit for sale4 ,we have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops plain tincture of orris root1 done up in nice bottles1 with labels upon them inferring the contents to be ,extract of ,violet2 customers thus once taken in are not likely to be so a second time4 ,a good ,,imitation ,,essence ,,of ,,violets is best prepared thus-- ,spirituous extract of cassie pomade1 #a pint4 ,esprit de rose1 from pomade1 #a_/b ,tincture of orris1 #a_/b ,spirituous extract of tuberose pomade1 #a_/b ,otto of almonds1 #c drops4 ,after filtration it is fit for bottling4 ,in this mixture1 it is the extract of cassie which has the leading smell1 but modified by the rose and tuberose becomes very much like the violet4 ,moreover1 it has a green color1 like the extract of violet2 and as the eye influences the judgment by the sense of taste1 so it does with the sense of smell4 ,extract of violet enters largely into the composition of several of the most popular bouquets1 such as extract of spring flowers and many others4 ,,vitivert1 or ,kus-,kus1 is the rhizome of an ,indian grass4 ,in the neighborhood of ,calcutta1 and in the city1 this material has an extensive use by being manufactured into awnings1 blinds1 and sun-shades1 called ,tatty4 ,during the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water over them2 this operation cools the apartment by the evaporation of the water1 and1 at the same time1 perfumes the atmosphere1 in a very agreeable manner1 with the odoriferous principle of the vitivert4 ,it has a smell between the aromatic or spicy odor and that of flowers--if such a distinction can be admitted4 ,we classify it with orris root1 not that it has any odor resembling it1 but because it has a like effect in use in perfumery1 and because it is prepared as a tincture for obtaining its odor4 ,about four pounds of the dried vitivert1 as it is imported1 being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits for a fortnight1 produces the ,,essence ,,of ,,vitivert of the shops4 ,in this state it is rarely used as a perfume1 although it is occasionally asked for by those who1 perhaps1 have learnt to admire its odor by their previous residence in the ,eastern clime4 ,the extract1 essence1 or tincture of vitivert1 enters into the composition of several of the much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early days of perfumery in ,england1 such as ,mousselaine des ,indies1 for which preparation ,m4 ,delcroix1 in the zenith of his fame1 created quite a furor in the fashionable world4 ,illustration3 ,vitivert4 ,essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving #b oz4 of otto of vitivert in #a gallon of spirit2 this preparation is stronger than the tincture1 as above4 ,,marechale and ,,bouquet ,,du ,,roi1 perfumes which have also had their day1 owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert contained in them4 ,bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and preventing moth1 and1 when ground1 is used to manufacture certain sachet powders4 ,otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation2 a hundred-weight of vitivert yields about #ad oz4 of otto1 which in appearance very much resembles otto of santal4 ,i have placed a sample of it in the museum at ,kew4 ,,volkameria4--,an exquisite perfume is sold under this name1 presumed1 of course1 to be derived from the ,volkameria inermis 7,,lindley74 ,whether it has a smell resembling the flower of that plant1 or whether the plant blooms at all1 we are unable to say4 ,it is a native of ,india1 and seems to be little known even in the botanic gardens of this country2 however1 the plant has a name1 and that's enough for the versatile ,parisian perfumer1 and if the mixture he makes takes with the fashionable world--the plant which christens it has a fine perfume for a certainty6 ,,essence ,,of ,,volkameria4 ,esprit de violette1 #a pint4 tubereuse1 #a jasmine1 #a_/d rose1 #a_/b ,essence de muse1 #b oz4 ,,wallflower 7,cherianthus74--,exquisite as is the odor of this flower1 it is not used in perfumery1 though no doubt it might be1 and very successfully too1 were the plant cultivated for that purpose4 ,to this flower we would direct particular attention1 as one well adapted for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country1 our climate being good for its production4 ,the mode for obtaining its odor has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope1 page #fj4 ,and if it answers on the small scale1 there is little doubt of success in the large way1 and there is no fear but that the scent of the old ,english wallflower will meet with a demand4 ,an ,,imitation ,,essence ,,of ,,wallflower can be compounded thus3-- ,extract fleur d'orange1 #a pint4 vanilla1 #a_/b ,esprit de rose1 #a ,extract of orris1 #a_/b cassie1 #a_/b ,essential oil of almonds1 #e drops4 ,allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting it up for sale4 ,,winter ,,green 7,trientalis ,europoea74--,a perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant3 it is principally consumed in the perfuming of soaps4 ,upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made4 ,,iceland ,,winter ,,green4 ,esprit de rose1 #a pint4 ,essence of lavender1 #a_/d ,extract of neroli1 #a_/b vanilla1 #a_/d vitivert1 #a_/d cassie1 #a_/b ambergris1 #a_/d ,we have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer1 as derived from the botanic kingdom2 it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed1 it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on1 and that the methods adopted for preparing its essence1 extract1 water1 or oil1 are analogous to those that have been already noticed1 that is1 by the processes of maceration1 absorption1 or enfleurage for flowers1 by tincturation for roots1 and by distillation for seeds1 modified under certain circumstances4 ,there are1 however1 three other important derivative odors--ambergris1 civet1 and musk--which1 being from the animal kingdom1 are treated separately from plant odors1 in order1 it is considered1 to render the whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them4 ,ammonia and acetic acid1 holding an indefinite position in the order we have laid down1 may also come in here without much criticism1 being considered as primitive odors4 ,on terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the odors of plants1 and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin1 or of those compound odors sold as bouquets1 nosegays1 c41 it may probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics1 showing the consumption1 in ,england1 of the several substances previously named4 ,,quantities ,,of ,,essential ,,oils1 ,,or ,,ottos1 ,,paying #a,s4 ,,per ,,pound ,,duty1 ,,entered ,,for ,,home ,,consumption ,,in ,,the ,,year #aheb4 lbs4 ,otto of bergamot1 #bh1egd caraway1 #c1fjb cassia1 #f1afc cloves1 #eie ,otto of lavender1 #ab1ggf lemon1 #fg1cdh peppermint1 #af1jei roses1 #a1bfh spearmint1 #afc thyme1 #aa1dah lemon grass1 citronella1 #dg1chj ,and other ottos not otherwise described1 ------- ,total essential oils or ottos imported in one year1 #aie1cdf at the duty of #as4 per pound1 yield a revenue annually of #i1gffl4 #afs4 ,it would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small2 whereas it is probably ten times that amount4 ,the fact is1 several of the ,english wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto1 leaving little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves4 ,again1 otto of caraway1 the ,english production of that article is quite equal to the foreign2 also1 otto of lavender1 which is drawn in this country probably to the extent of #fjjj lbs4 annually4 ,there were also passed through the ,custom ,house for home consumption1 in #aheb-- ,pomatums1 procured by enfleurage1 maceration1 c41 commonly called ,french ,pomatums1 average value of #fs4 per pound1 and paying a duty of #as4 per pound1 valued by the importers at ,l#a1cjf ,perfumery not otherwise described2 value ,l#a1ibj ,number of bottles of eau de ,cologne1 paying a duty of #as4 each1,d #ai1ggg ,revenue from eau de ,cologne manufactured out of ,england1 say #bj1jjj flacons at #h;d4 #h1jjjl4 annually4 ,the total revenue derived from various sources1 even upon this low scale of duties1 from the substances with which ,britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief1 cannot be estimated at less than #dj1jjjl4 per annum4 ,this1 of course1 includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manufacture of perfumery4 ,,section ,,iv4 ,,perfumes ,,of ,,animal ,,origin4 ,in the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants2 we now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin4 ,the first under our notice is-- ,,ambergris4--,this substance is found in the sea1 floating near the islands of ,sumatra1 ,molucca1 and ,madagascar2 also on the coasts of ,america1 ,brazil1 ,china1 ,japan1 and the ,coromandel4 ,the western coast of ,ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance4 ,the shores of the counties of ,sligo1 ,mayo1 ,kerry1 and the isles of ,arran1 are the principal places where it has been found4 ,in the ,philosophical ,transactions there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the first-mentioned county1 in the year #afia1 which weighed #eb oz41 and was bought on the spot for #bjl41 but which afterwards was sold in ,london for more than #ajjl4 7,philos4 ,trans4 ,no4 #bbg1 p4 #eji74 ,we are quite within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of ambergris have been written1 but the question respecting it is still at issue4 ,it is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes1 these animals swallowing1 at particular times1 everything they happen to meet with4 ,it has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti whale1 and most commonly in sickly fish1 whence it is supposed to be the cause or effect of the disease4 ,some authors1 and among them ,robert ,boyle1 consider it to be of vegetable production1 and analogous to amber2 hence its name amber-gris 7gray7 gray amber4 ,it is not1 however1 within the province of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production1 which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern appliances were brought to bear upon the subject4 ,the field is open to any scientific enthusiast2 all recent authors who mention it1 merely quoting the facts known more than a century ago4 ,a modern compiler1 speaking of ambergris1 says1 ,it smells like dried cow-dung4 ,never having smelled this latter substance1 we cannot say whether the simile be correct2 but we certainly consider that its perfume is most incredibly overrated2 nor can we forget that ,,homberg found that a vessel in which he had made a long digestion of the human faeces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris1 insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it4 ,the perfume 7odor67 was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of the laboratory4 7,mem4 ,acad4 ,paris1 #agaa47 ,nevertheless1 as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume1 in deference to those who admire its odor1 we presume that it has to many an agreeable smell4 ,like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing little volatility1 it1 when mixed with other very fleeting scents1 gives permanence to them on the handkerchief1 and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much4 ,,essence ,,of ,,ambergris ,is only kept for mixing2 when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the public nose2 it is then called after the ,parisian name ,,extrait ,d',,ambre4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a_/b pint4 ,extract of ambergris1 #a ,essence of musk1 #a_/d ,extract of vanilla1 #b ounces4 ,this perfume has such a lasting odor1 that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it1 will still retain an odor even after it has been washed4 ,the fact is1 that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics1 and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes1 is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal4 ,powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes--little ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances1 to carry in the pocket or reticule2 also in the making of peau d',espagne1 or ,spanish skin1 used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes1 and which will be described hereafter4 ,illustration3 ,civet ,cat4 ,,civet4--,this substance is secreted by the ,viverra civetta1 or civet cat4 ,it is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between the anus and the pudendum of the creature4 ,like many other substances of ,oriental origin1 it was first brought to this country by the ,dutch4 ,when the civet cats are kept in a state of confinement1 which at one time was common in ,amsterdam1 they are placed in strong cages1 so constructed as to prevent the animal from turning round and biting the person employed in collecting the secreted substance4 ,this operation is said to be performed twice a week1 and is done by scraping out the civet with a small spoon3 about a drachm at a time is thus obtained4 ,a good deal of the civet now brought to ,european markets is from ,calicut1 capital of the province of ,malabar1 and from ,bassora on the ,euphrates4 ,in its pure state1 civet has1 to nearly all persons1 a most disgusting odor2 but when diluted to an infinitesimal portion1 its perfume is agreeable4 ,it is difficult to ascertain the reason why the same substance1 modified only by the quantity of matter presented to the nose1 should produce an opposite effect on the olfactory nerve2 but such is the case with nearly all odorous bodies1 especially with ottos1 which1 if smelled at1 are far from nice1 and in some cases1 positively nasty--such as otto of neroli1 otto of thyme1 otto of patchouly2 but if diluted with a thousand times its volume of oil1 spirit1 c41 then their fragrance is delightful4 ,otto of rose to many has a sickly odor1 but when eliminated in the homeopathic quantities as it rises from a single rose-bloom1 who is it that will not admit that the rose is sweet8 ,the odor of civet is best imparted1 not by actual contact1 but by being placed in the neighborhood of absorbent materials4 ,thus1 when spread upon leather1 which1 being covered with silk and placed in a writing-desk1 perfumes the paper and envelopes delightfully1 and so much so1 that they retain the odor after passing through the post4 ,,extract ,,of ,,civet is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder1 or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet2 and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits2 after macerating for a month1 it is fit to strain off4 ,it is principally used as a fixing ingredient1 in mixing essences of delicate odor4 ,the ,french perfumers use the extract of civet more than ,english manufacturers1 who seem to prefer extract of musk4 ,from a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume4 ,,castor is a secretion of the ,castor fiber1 or beaver1 very similar to civet4 ,though we have often heard of its being used in perfumery1 we do not personally know that such is the case4 ,,musk4--,this extraordinary substance1 like civet1 is an animal secretion2 it is contained in excretory follicles about the navel of the male animal4 ,in the perfumery trade these little bags are called pods1 and as imported it is called pod musk4 ,when the musk is separated from the skin or sack in which it is contained1 it is then called grain musk4 ,the musk deer 7,moschus moschatus7 is an inhabitant of the great mountain range which belts the north of ,india1 and branches out into ,siberia1 ,thibet1 and ,china4 ,and it is also found in the ,altaic range1 near ,lake ,baikal1 and in some other mountain ranges1 but always on the borders of the line of perpetual snow4 ,it is from the male animal only that the musk is produced4 ,illustration3 ,musk ,pod1 actual size4 ,it formerly was held in high repute as a medicine1 and is still so among ,eastern nations4 ,the musk from ,boutan1 ,tonquin1 and ,thibet1 is most esteemed1 that from ,bengal is inferior1 and from ,russia is of still lower quality4 ,the strength and the quantity produced by a single animal varies with the season of the year and the age of the animal4 ,a single musk pod usually contains from two to three drachms of grain musk4 ,musk is imported into ,england from ,china1 in caddies of from #ej to #ajj ounces each4 ,when adulterated with the animal's blood1 which is often the case1 it forms into lumps or clots2 it is sometimes also mixed with a dark1 friable earth4 ,those pods in which little pieces of lead are discovered1 as a general rule1 yield the finest quality of musk2 upon this rule1 we presume that the best musk is the most worthy of adulteration4 ,musk is remarkable for the diffusiveness and subtlety of its scent2 everything in its vicinity soon becomes affected by it1 and long retains its odor1 although not in actual contact with it4 ,it is a fashion of the present day for people to say that they do not like musk2 but1 nevertheless1 from great experience in one of the largest manufacturing perfumatories in ,europe1 we are of opinion that the public taste for musk is as great as any perfumer desires4 ,those substances containing it always take the preference in ready sale--so long as the vendor takes care to assure his customer that there is no musk in it4 ,illustration3 ,the ,musk ,deer4 ,the perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of soap1 sachet powder1 and in mixing for liquid perfumery4 ,the just reputation of ,paris's original ,windsor soap is due1 in the main1 to its delightful odor4 ,the soap is1 doubtless1 of the finest quality1 but its perfume stamps it among the elite--its fragrance it owes to musk4 ,the alkaline reaction of soap is favorable to the development of the odoriferous principle of musk4 ,if1 however1 a strong solution of potass be poured on to grain musk1 ammonia is developed instead of the true musk smell4 ,,extract ,,of ,,musk4 ,grain musk1 #b oz4 ,rectified spirit1 #a gallon4 ,after standing for one month1 at a summer temperature1 it is fit to draw off4 ,such an extract is that which is used for mixing in other perfumes4 ,that extract of musk which is prepared for retail sale1 is prepared thus3-- ,,extrait ,,de ,,musc4 ,extract of musk 7as above71 #a pint4 ambergris1 #a_/b rose triple1 #a_/d ,mix and filter it2 it is then fit for bottling4 ,this preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk made according to our first formula1 and is also more profitable to the vendor4 ,it will be seen hereafter that the original extract of musk is principally used for a fixing ingredient in other perfumes1 to give permanence to a volatile odor2 customers requiring1 in a general way1 that which is incompatible1 namely1 that a perfume shall be strong to smell1 i4e4 very volatile1 and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief for a long period1 ergo1 not volatile6 ,small portions of extract of musk1 mixed with esprit de rose1 violet1 tuberose1 and others1 do1 in a measure1 attain this object2 that is1 after the violet1 c41 has evaporated1 the handkerchief still retains an odor1 which1 although not that of the original smell1 yet gives satisfaction1 because it is pleasant to the nasal organ4 ,,section ,v4 ,,ammonia4--,under the various titles of ,smelling ,salts1 ,preston ,salts1 ,inexhaustible ,salts1 ,eau de ,luce1 ,sal ,volatile1 ammonia1 mixed with other odoriferous bodies1 has been very extensively consumed as material for gratifying the olfactory nerve4 ,the perfumer uses liq4 amm4 fortis1 that is1 strong liquid ammonia1 and the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia1 for preparing the various salts that he sells4 ,these materials he does not attempt to make2 in fact1 it is quite out of his province so to do1 but he procures them ready for his hand through some manufacturing chemist4 ,the best preparation for smelling-bottles is what is termed ,,inexhaustible ,,salts1 which is prepared thus3-- ,liquid ammonia1 #a pint4 ,otto of rosemary1 #a drachm4 ,english lavender1 #a bergamot1 #a_/b cloves1 #a_/b ,mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and well-stoppered bottle4 ,this mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous absorbent material1 such as asbestos1 or1 what is better1 sponge cuttings1 that have been well beaten1 washed1 and dried4 ,these cuttings can be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers1 being the trimming or roots of the ,turkey sponge1 which are cut off before the merchants send it into the retail market4 ,after the bottles are filled with the sponge1 it is thoroughly saturated with the scented ammonia1 but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain1 when the bottles are inverted2 as1 if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is spilt over certain colored fabrics1 it causes a stain4 ,when such an accident happens1 the person who sold it is invariably blamed4 ,when the sponge is saturated properly1 it will retain the ammoniacal odor longer than any other material2 hence1 we presume1 bottles filled in this way are called inexhaustible1 which name1 however1 they do not sustain more than two or three months with any credit2 the warm hand soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances1 and they require to be refilled4 ,for transparent colored bottles1 instead of sponge1 the perfumers use what they call insoluble crystal salts 7sulphate of potass74 ,the bottles being filled with crystals1 are covered either with the liquid ammonia1 scented as above1 or with alcoholic ammonia4 ,the necks of the bottles are filled with a piece of white cotton2 otherwise1 when inverted1 from the non-absorbent quality of the crystals1 the ammonia runs out1 and causes complaints to be made4 ,the crystals are prettier in colored bottles than the sponge2 but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome1 and1 as before observed1 it holds the ammonia better than any other material4 ,perfumers sell also what is called ,,white ,,smelling ,,salts1 and ,,preston ,,salts4 ,the ,white ,smelling ,salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder1 with which is mixed any perfuming otto that is thought fit1--lavender otto giving1 as a general rule1 the most satisfaction4 ,,preston ,,salts1 which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal compounds1 is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and lime1 such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia1 or of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia1 and of fresh-slaked lime4 ,when the bottles are filled with this compound1 rammed in very hard1 a drop or two of some cheap otto is poured on the top prior to corking4 ,for this purpose otto of ,french lavender1 or otto of bergamot1 answers very well4 ,we need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax1 or brushed over with liquid wax1 that is1 red or black wax dissolved in alcohol1 to which a small portion of ether is added4 ,the only other compound of ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is ,eau de ,luce1 though properly it belongs to the druggist4 ,when correctly made--which is very rarely the case--it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber1 which renders it characteristic4 ,,eau ,,de ,,luce4 ,tincture of benzoin3 or1 balsam of ,peru1 #a oz4 ,otto of lavender1 #aj drops4 ,oil of amber1 #e ,liquor ammonia1 #b oz4 ,if requisite1 strain through cotton wool1 but it must not be filtered1 as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion4 ,,acetic ,,acid ,,and ,,its ,,use ,,in ,,perfumery4--,the pungency of the odor of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of perfumery4 ,the acetic acid1 evolved by distilling acetate of copper 7verdigris71 is the true aromatic vinegar of the old alchemists4 ,the modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized with various ottos1 camphor1 c41 thus-- ,,aromatic ,,vinegar4 ,concentrated acetic acid1 #h oz4 ,otto of ,english lavender1 #b drachms4 rosemary1 #a drachm4 cloves1 #a camphor1 #a oz4 ,first dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid1 then add the perfumes2 after remaining together for a few days1 with occasional agitation1 it is to be strained1 and is then ready for use4 ,several forms for the preparation of this substance have been published1 almost all of which1 however1 appear to complicate and mystify a process that is all simplicity4 ,the most popular article of this kind is-- ,,henry',s ,,vinegar4 ,dried leaves of rosemary1 rue1 wormwood1 sage1 mint1 and lavender flowers1 each1 #a_/b oz4 ,bruised nutmeg1 cloves1 angelica root1 and camphor1 each1 #a_/d oz4 ,alcohol 7rectified71 #d oz4 ,concentrated acetic acid1 #af oz4 ,macerate the materials for a day in the spirit2 then add the acid1 and digest for a week longer1 at a temperature of about #ad deg4 ,c4 or #ae deg4 ,c4 ,finally1 press out the new aromatized acid1 and filter it4 ,as this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic tincture press1 for the obvious reason of the chemical action that would ensue1 it is best to drain as much of the liquor away as we can1 by means of a common funnel1 and then to save the residue from the interstices of the herbs1 by tying them up in a linen cloth1 and subjecting them to pressure by means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer1 or similar device4 ,,vinaigre ,a ,,la ,,rose4 ,concentrated acetic acid1 #a oz4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/b drachm4 ,well shaken together4 ,it is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a similar manner to the above1 by using other ottos in place of the otto of roses4 ,all these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as perfumed ammonia1 that is1 by pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental smelling bottle1 previously filled with crystals of sulphate of potash1 which forms the sel de vinaigre of the shops2 or upon sponge into little silver boxes1 called vinaigrettes1 from their ,french origin4 ,the use of these vinegars had their origin in the presumption of keeping those who carried them from the effects of infectious disease1 doubtless springing out of the story of the four thieves' vinegar1 which is thus rendered in ,lewis's ,dispensatory3 ,it is said that during the plague at ,marseilles1 four persons1 by the use of this preservative1 attended1 unhurt1 multitudes of those that were affected2 that under the color of these services1 they robbed both the sick and the dead2 and that being afterwards apprehended1 one of them saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the prophylactic 7a very likely story6671 which was as follows3-- ,,vinaigre ,,des ,,quatre ,,voleurs1 ,,or ,,four ,,thieves' ,,vinegar4 ,take fresh tops of common wormwood1 ,roman wormwood1 rosemary1 sage1 mint1 and rue1 of each1 #c_/d oz4 ,lavender flowers1 #a oz4 ,garlic1 calamus aromaticus1 cinnamon1 cloves1 and nutmeg1 each1 #a drachm4 ,camphor1 #a_/b oz4 ,alcohol or brandy1 #a oz4 ,strong vinegar1 #d pints4 ,digest all the materials1 except the camphor and spirit1 in a closely covered vessel for a fortnight1 at a summer heat2 then express and filter the vinaigre produced1 and add the camphor previously dissolved in the brandy or spirit4 ,a very similar and quite as effective a preparation may be made by dissolving the odorous principle of the plants indicated in a mixture of alcohol and acetic acid4 ,such preparations1 however1 are more within the province of the druggist than perfumer4 ,there are1 however1 several preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for mixing with the water for lavatory purposes and the bath1 their vendors endeavoring to place them in competition with ,eau de ,cologne1 but with little avail4 ,among them may be enumerated-- ,,hygienic ,,or ,,preventive ,,vinegar4 ,brandy1 #a pint4 ,otto of cloves1 #a drachm4 lavender1 #a marjoram1 #a_/b drachm4 ,gum benzoin1 #a oz4 ,macerate these together for a few hours1 then add-- ,brown vinegar1 #b pints4 and strain or filter1 if requisite1 to be bright4 ,,toilet ,,vinegar 7a la ,violette74 ,extract of cassie1 #a_/b pint4 orris1 #a_/d ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/d ,white wine vinegar1 #b pints4 ,,toilet ,,vinegar 7a la ,rose74 ,dried rose-leaves1 #d oz4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/b pint4 ,white wine vinegar1 #b pints4 ,macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight1 then filter and bottle for sale4 ,,vinaigre ,,de ,,cologne4 ,to eau de ,cologne1 #a pint1 ,add1 strong acetic acid1 #a_/b oz4 ,filter if necessary4 ,without unnecessarily repeating similar formulae1 it will be obvious to the reader that vinegar of any flower may be prepared in a similar way to those above noticed2 thus1 for vinaigre a la jasmine1 or for vinaigre a la fleur d'orange1 we have only to substitute the esprit de jasmine1 or the esprit de fleur d'orange1 in place of the ,eau de ,cologne1 to produce orange-flower or jasmine vinegars2 however1 these latter articles are not in demand1 and our only reason for explaining how such preparations may be made1 is in order to suggest the methods of procedure to any one desirous of making them leading articles in their trade4 ,we perhaps may observe1 en passant1 that where economy in the production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of consideration1 they have only to be diluted with rose-water down to the profitable strength required4 ,any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce opalescence1 when mixed with water1 must contain some gum-resin1 like the hygienic vinegar1 as above4 ,either myrrh1 benzoin1 storax1 or tolu1 answer equally well4 ,,section ,,vi4 ,,bouquets ,,and ,,nosegays4 ,in the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants4 ,it will have been observed1 that while the majority can be obtained under the form of otto or essential oil1 there are others which hitherto have not been isolated1 but exist only in solution in alcohol1 or in a fatty body4 ,of the latter are included all that are most prized1 with the exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems4 ,practically1 we have no essential oils or ottos of ,jasmine1 ,vanilla1 ,acacia1 ,tuberose1 ,cassie1 ,syringa1 ,violets1 and others4 ,what we know of these odors is derived from esprits1 obtained from oils or fats1 in which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused1 and afterwards infusing such fats or oils in alcohol4 ,undoubtedly1 these odors are the most generally pleasing1 while those made from the essential oils 7i4e4 otto71 dissolved in spirit1 are of a secondary character4 ,the simple odors1 when isolated1 are called ,,essential ,,oils or ,,ottos2 when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol1 by the ,english they are termed ,,essences1 and by the ,french ,,extraits or ,,esprits2 a few exceptions prove this rule4 ,essential oil of orange-peel1 and of lemon-peel1 are frequently termed in the trade ,essence of orange and ,essence of lemons1 instead of essential oil or otto of lemons1 c4 ,the sooner the correct nomenclature is used in perfumery1 as well as in the allied arts1 the better1 and the fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory4 ,it appears to the writer1 that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised1 it would be serviceable2 and he would suggest that1 as a significant1 brief1 and comprehensive term1 ,otto be used as a prefix to denote that such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant4 ,we should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender1 c4 c4 ,in this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used the word ,,otto in place of essential oil1 in accordance with his views4 ,where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat oil1 the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered obvious1 for commercially such articles are still called oils--oil of jasmine1 oil of roses1 c4 ,it cannot be expected that the public will use the words fat oil and essential oil1 to distinguish these differences of composition4 ,there are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants should not be denominated oils4 ,in the first place1 it is a bad principle to give any class of substances the same signification as those belonging to another4 ,surely1 there are enough distinguishing qualities in their composition1 their physical character1 and chemical reaction1 to warrant the application of a significant name to that large class of substances known as the aroma of plants6 ,when the chemical nomenclature was last revised1 the organic bodies were little dealt with4 ,we know that we owe this universal oil to the old alchemist1 much in the same way as spirit has been used1 but a little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use4 ,we can no longer call otto of rosemary1 or otto of nutmegs1 essential oil of rosemary or nutmegs1 with any more propriety than we can term sulphuric acid oil of vitriol4 ,all the chemical works speak of the odoriferous bodies as essential or volatile oils1 and of the greasy bodies as fat or unctuous oils4 ,oils1 properly so called1 unite with salifiable bases and form soap2 whereas the essential or volatile oils1 i4e4 what we would please to call the ottos1 do no such thing4 ,on the contrary1 they unite with acids in the majority of instances4 ,the word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its literal meaning refers--fat1 unctuous1 inodorous 7when pure71 greasy substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil4 ,we have grappled with spirit1 and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense2 we have no longer spirit of salt1 or spirit of hartshorn4 ,let us no longer have almond oil essential1 almond oil unctuous1 and the like4 ,it remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates to odors for the handkerchief1 by giving the formulae for preparing the most favorite bouquets and nosegays4 ,these1 as before stated1 are but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit1 which1 properly blended1 produce an agreeable and characteristic odor1--an effect upon the smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing1 that of pleasure4 ,,the ,,alhambra ,,perfume4 ,extract of tubereuse1 #a pint4 geranium1 #a_/b acacia1 #a_/d fleur d'orange1 #a_/d civet1 #a_/d ,,the ,,bosphorus ,,bouquet4 ,extract of acacia1 #a pint4 jasmine1 rose triple1 of each1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 tubereuse1 civet1 #a_/d ,otto of almonds1 #aj drops4 ,,bouquet ,d',,amour4 ,esprit de rose1 jasmine1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 violette1 cassie1 ,extract of musk1 of each1 #a_/b ambergris1 ,mix and filter4 ,,bouquet ,,des ,,fleurs ,,du ,,val ,d',,andorre4 ,extrait de jasmine1 rose1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 violette1 tuberose1 ,extract of orris1 #a ,otto of geranium1 #a_/d oz4 ,,buckingham ,,palace ,,bouquet4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 cassie1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 jasmine1 rose1 ,extract of orris1 of each1 #a_/b ambergris1 ,otto of neroli1 #a_/b drachm4 lavender1 #a_/b rose1 #a ,,bouquet ,,de ,,caroline2 ,,also ,,called ,,bouquet ,,des ,,delices4 ,extrait de rose1 violette1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 tuberose1 ,extract of orris1 of each1 #a_/b ambergris1 ,otto of bergamot1 ,limette1 of each1 #a_/d oz4 cedret1 ,,the ,,court ,,nosegay4 ,extrait de rose1 violette1 of each1 #a pint4 jasmine1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a ,extract of musk1 of each1 #a oz4 ambergris1 ,otto of lemon1 of each1 #a_/b oz4 bergamot1 neroli1 #a drachm4 ,,eau ,,de ,,chypre4 ,this is an old-fashioned ,french perfume1 presumed to be derived from the ,cyperus esculentus by some1 and by others to be so named after the ,island of ,cyprus2 the article sold1 however1 is made thus-- ,extract of musk1 #a pint4 ambergris1 vanilla1 of each1 #a_/b tonquin bean1 orris1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #b pints4 ,the mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made4 ,,empress ,,eugenie',s ,,nosegay4 ,extract of musk1 vanilla1 of each1 #a_/d pint4 tonquin1 neroli1 geranium1 rose triple1 of each1 #a_/b santal1 ,,esterhazy ,,bouquet4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange 7from pomade71 #a pint4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a ,extract of vitivert1 vanilla1 of each1 #b orris1 tonquin1 ,esprit de neroli1 #a ,extract of ambergris1 #a_/b ,otto of santal1 #a_/b drachm4 cloves1 #a_/b ,notwithstanding the complex mixture here given1 it is the vitivert that gives this bouquet its peculiar character4 ,few perfumes have excited greater furor while in fashion4 ,,ess ,,bouquet4 ,the reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of the original article1 more particularly on the continent4 ,in many of the shops in ,germany and in ,france will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by ,bayley and ,co41 ,cockspur ,street1 ,london1 who are1 in truth1 the original makers4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a pint4 ,extract of ambergris1 #b oz4 orris1 #h ,otto of lemons1 #a_/d bergamot1 #a ,the name ,ess bouquet1 which appears to puzzle some folk1 is but a mere contraction of essence of bouquet4 ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 7,la premiere qualite47 ,spirit 7from grape71 #fj over proof1 #f gallons4 ,otto of neroli1 ,petale1 #c oz4 ,bigarade1 #a rosemary1 #b orange-peel1 #e citron-peel1 #e bergamot-peel1 #b ,mix with agitation2 then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet1 before bottling4 ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 7,la deuxieme qualite47 ,spirit 7from corn71 #f gallons4 ,otto of neroli1 ,petit-grain1 #b oz4 ,petale1 #a_/b rosemary1 #b orange-peel1 lemon1 of each1 #d bergamot1 ,although ,eau de ,cologne was originally introduced to the public as a sort of cure-all1 a regular elixir of life1 it now takes its place1 not as a pharmaceutical product1 but among perfumery4 ,of its remedial qualities we can say nothing1 such matter being irrelevant to the purpose of this book4 ,considered1 however1 as a perfume1 with the public taste it ranks very high2 and although it is exceedingly volatile and evanescent1 yet it has that excellent quality which is called refreshing4 ,whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit1 we cannot say1 but think something may be attributed to both4 ,one important thing relating to ,eau de ,cologne must not1 however1 pass unnoticed1 and that is1 the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture4 ,the utter impossibility of making brandy with ,english spirit in any way to resemble the real ,cognac1 is well known4 ,it is equally impossible to make ,eau de ,cologne with ,english spirit1 to resemble the original article4 ,to speak of the purity of ,french spirit1 or of the impurity of ,english spirit1 is equally absurd4 ,the fact is1 that spirit derived from grapes1 and spirit obtained from corn1 have each so distinct and characteristic an aroma1 that the one cannot be mistaken for the other4 ,the odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which it contains4 ,the ,english spirit1 on the other hand1 owes its odor to fusel oil4 ,so powerful is the oeanthic ether in the ,french spirit1 that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous substances as the ottos of neroli1 rosemary1 and others1 it still gives a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it1 and hence the difficulty of preparing ,eau de ,cologne with any spirit destitute of this substance4 ,although very fine ,eau de ,cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above1 yet it is better1 first1 to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit1 and then to distil the mixture1 afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies1 such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at ,cologne4 ,a great many forms for the manufacture of ,eau de ,cologne have been published1 the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge1 in a practical sense1 of what they were putting by theory on paper2 other venturers1 to show their lore1 have searched out all the aromatics of ,lindley's ,botany1 and would persuade us to use absinthe1 hyssop1 anise1 juniper1 marjoram1 caraway1 fennel1 cumin1 cardamom1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 serpolet1 angelica1 cloves1 lavender1 camphor1 balm1 peppermint1 galanga1 lemon thyme1 c4 c4 c4 ,all these1 however1 are but hum--6 ,where it is a mere matter of profit1 and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the article required1 it is better to dilute the said ,cologne with a weak spirit1 or with rose-water1 rather than otherwise alter its form2 because1 although weak1 the true aroma of the original article is retained4 ,the recipe of the second quality of ,eau de ,cologne is given1 to show that a very decent article can be produced with ,english spirit4 ,,flowers ,,of ,,erin4 ,extract of white rose 7see ,,white ,,rose71 #a pint4 vanilla1 #a oz4 ,,royal ,,hunt ,,bouquet4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a pint4 neroli1 acacia1 fleur d'orange1 of each #a_/d musk1 orris1 tonquin1 #a_/b ,otto of citron #b drachms4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,flora2 ,,otherwise1 ,,extract ,,of ,,flowers4 ,esprit de rose1 tubereuse1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 violette1 ,extract of benzoin1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,otto of bergamot1 #b lemon1 orange1 of each1 #a_/b ,,the ,,guards' ,,bouquet4 ,esprit de rose1 #b pints4 neroli1 #a_/b pint4 ,extract of vanilla1 #b oz4 orris1 #b musk1 #a_/d pint4 ,otto of cloves1 #a_/b drachm4 ,,fleur ,d',,italie2 ,,or ,,italian ,,nosegay4 ,esprit de rose1 from pomade1 #b pints4 rose triple1 #a pint4 jasmine1 violette1 from pomade1 each1 #a ,extract of cassie1 #a_/b musk1 ambergris1 of each1 #b oz4 ,,jockey ,,club ,,bouquet4 7,english formula47 ,extract of orris root1 #b pints4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a pint4 rose de pomade1 #a ,extrait de cassie1 tubereuse1 de pomade1 of each #a_/b ambergris1 #a_/b ,otto of bergamot1 #a_/b oz4 ,,jockey ,,club ,,bouquet4 7,french formula47 ,esprit de rose1 de pomade1 #a pint4 tubereuse1 #a cassie1 #a_/b jasmine1 #a_/d ,extract of civet1 #c oz4 ,independently of the materials employed being different to the original ,english recipe1 it must be remembered that all the ,french perfumes are made of brandy1 i4e4 grape spirit2 whereas the ,english perfumes are made with corn spirit1 which alone modifies their odor4 ,though good for some mixtures1 yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable1 on account of the predominance of its own aroma4 ,we have spoken of the difference in the odor between the ,english and ,french spirit2 the marked distinction of ,british and ,parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed4 ,owing to the strong bouquet1 as the ,french say1 of their spirit in comparison with ours1 the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes4 ,now1 although we candidly admit that some odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit1 yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source4 ,musk1 ambergris1 civet1 violet1 tubereuse1 and jasmine1 if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol1 must be made with the ,british spirit4 ,all the citrine odors1 verveine1 vulnerary waters1 ,eau de ,cologne1 ,eau de ,portugal1 ,eau d',arquebuzade1 and lavender1 can alone be brought to perfection by using the ,french spirit in their manufacture4 ,if extract of jasmine1 or extract of violet1 c41 be made with the ,french or brandy spirit1 the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it4 ,this solves the paradox that ,english extract of violet and its compounds1 spring flowers1 c41 is at all times in demand on the ,continent1 although the very flowers with which we make it are grown there4 ,on the contrary1 if an ,english perfumer attempts to make ,eau de ,portugal1 c41 to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by ,lubin1 of ,paris1 without using grape spirit1 his attempts will prove a failure4 ,true1 he makes ,eau de ,portugal even with ,english corn spirit1 but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between ,patent ,british and foreign brandy4 ,perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in this country as ,british brandy is in truth grape spirit1 that is1 foreign brandy very largely diluted with ,english spirit6 ,by this scheme1 a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained2 the difference in duty upon ,english and foreign spirit enables the makers of the capsuled article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated ,cognac4 ,some chemists1 not being very deep in the tricks of trade1 have thought that some flavoring1 or that oeanthic ether1 was used to impart to ,british spirit the ,cognac aroma4 ,an article is even in the market called ,essence of ,cognac1 but which is nothing more than very badly made butyric ether4 ,on the ,continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation of the molasses from beet-root2 this1 of course1 finds its way into the market1 and is often mixed with the grape spirit2 so1 also1 in ,england we have spirit from potatoes1 which is mixed in the corn spirit4 ,these adulterations1 if we may so term it1 modify the relative odors of the primitive alcohols4 ,a ,,japanese ,,perfume4 ,extract of rose triple1 vitivert1 patchouly1 of each1 #a_/b pint4 cedar1 santal1 vervaine1 #a_/d ,,kew ,,garden ,,nosegay4 ,esprit de neroli 7,petale71 #a pint4 cassie1 tubereuse1 from pomade1 of each1 #a_/b jasmine1 geranium1 #a_/b musk1 of each1 #c oz4 ambergris1 ,,eau ,,des ,,millefleurs4 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a pint4 rose de pomade1 tubereuse1 jasmine1 from pomade1 of each1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 cassie1 violette1 ,extract of cedar1 #a_/d ,extract of vanilla1 ambergris1 of each1 #b oz4 musk1 ,otto of almonds1 neroli1 of each1 #aj drops4 cloves1 bergamot1 #a oz4 ,these ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight1 then filtered prior to sale4 ,,millefleurs ,,et ,,lavender4 ,essence of lavender 7,mitcham71 #a_/b pint4 ,eau des millefleurs1 #a ,,decroix',s ,,milleflower ,,lavender4 ,spirits from grape1 #a pint4 ,french otto of lavender1 #a oz4 ,extract of ambergris1 #b oz4 ,the original lavender aux millefleurs is that of ,delcroix2 its peculiar odor is due to the ,french otto of lavender1 which1 although some folks like it1 is very inferior to the ,english otto of lavender2 hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor1 and has almost superseded the original preparations4 ,there are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient1 and from which they take their name1 such as lavender and ambergris1 lavender and musk1 lavender and marechale1 c41 all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender1 with about #ae per cent4 of any of the other ingredients4 ,,bouquet ,,du ,,marechale4 ,esprit de rose triple1 of each1 #a pint4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 vitivert1 vanilla1 orris1 of each1 #a_/b tonquin1 ,esprit de neroli1 ,extract of musk1 of each1 #a_/d pint4 ambergris1 ,otto of cloves1 of each1 #a_/b drachm4 santal1 ,,eau ,,de ,,mousselaine4 ,bouquet marechale1 #a pint4 ,extrait de cassie1 jasmine1 from pomade1 of each1 #a_/b tubereuse1 rose1 ,otto of santal1 #b drachms4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,montpellier4 ,extrait de tubereuse1 #a pint4 rose de pomade1 #a rose triple1 #a ,extract of musk1 of each1 #a_/d ambergris1 ,otto of cloves1 #a-a_/b drachm4 bergarmot1 #a_/b oz4 ,,caprice ,,de ,,la ,,mode4 ,extrait de jasmine1 tubereuse1 of each1 #a_/b pint4 cassie1 fleur d'orange1 ,otto of almonds1 #aj drops4 nutmegs1 #aj ,extract of civet1 #a_/d pint4 ,,may ,,flowers4 ,extract of rose 7de pomade71 jasmine1 of each1 #a_/b pint4 fleur d'orange1 cassie1 vanilla1 #a ,otto of almonds1 #a_/d drachm4 ,,neptune1 ,,or ,,naval ,,nosegay4 ,extrait de rose1 triple1 santal1 of each1 #a_/b pint4 vitivert1 patchouly1 verbena1 #a_/h ,,bouquet ,,of ,,all ,,nations4 ,countries wherein the ,odors are produced4 ,,turkey1 ,esprit de rose triple1 #a_/b pint4 ,,africa1 ,extract of jasmine1 #a_/b ,,england1 lavender1 #a_/d ,,france1 tubereuse1 #a_/b ,,south ,,america1 vanilla1 #a_/d ,,timor1 santal1 #a_/d ,,italy1 violet1 #a ,,hindoostan1 patchouly1 #a_/d ,,ceylon1 ,otto of citronella1 #a drachm4 ,,sardinia1 lemons1 #a_/d oz4 ,,tonquin1 ,extract of musk1 #a_/d pint4 ,,isle ,,of ,,wight ,,bouquet4 ,extract of orris1 #a_/b pint4 vitivert1 #a_/d santal1 #a rose1 #a_/b ,,bouquet ,,du ,,roi4 ,extract of jasmine1 violet1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 rose vanilla1 of each1 #a_/d pint4 vitivert1 musk1 of each1 #a oz4 ambergris1 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a drachm4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,la ,,reine4 ,esprit de rose1 from pomade1 of each1 #a pint4 ,extrait de violette1 tubereuse1 #a_/b fleur d'orange1 #a_/d ,otto of bergamot1 #a_/d oz4 ,,rondeletia4 ,the perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made4 ,its inventors1 ,messrs4 ,hannay and ,dietrichsen1 have probably taken the name of this odor from the ,rondeletia1 the ,chyn-len of the ,chinese2 or from the ,r4 odorata of the ,west ,indies1 which has a sweet odor4 ,we have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors1 although derived from totally different sources3 that1 for instance1 otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that1 although the odor is increased1 yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed4 ,again3 there are certain odors which1 on being mixed in due proportion1 produce a new aroma1 perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself4 ,this effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed1 upon the nerve of vision3 such1 for instance1 as when yellow and blue are mixed1 the result we call green2 or when blue and red are united1 the compound color is known as puce or violet4 ,now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed1 they produce a new fragrance1 i4e4 ,rondeletia6 ,it is such combinations that constitute in reality a new perfume1 which1 though often advertised1 is very rarely attained4 ,jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma1 and many others in like manner2 proportion and relative strength1 when so mixed1 must of course be studied1 and the substances used accordingly4 ,if the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit1 and the solution be mixed in equal proportions1 the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other4 ,in this way we discover that patchouly1 lavender1 neroli1 and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors1 and that violet1 tubereuse1 and jasmine are the most delicate4 ,many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much1 when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve1 as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains4 ,by tutoring the olfactory nerve1 it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature3 not only that which is pleasant1 but also such as are unhealthful4 ,if an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere1 surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health4 ,to return1 however1 to ,rondeletia3 it will be seen by the annexed formulae1 that1 besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character--that is1 cloves and lavender--it contains musk1 vanilla1 c4 ,these substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief4 ,,essence ,,of ,,rondeletia4 ,spirit 7brandy #fj o4p471 #a gallon4 ,otto of lavender1 #b oz4 cloves1 #a oz4 roses1 #c drachms4 bergamot1 #a oz4 ,extract of musk1 vanilla1 each1 #a_/d pint4 ambergris1 ,the mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale4 ,very excellent ,rondeletia may also be made with ,english spirit4 ,,bouquet ,,royal4 ,extract of rose 7from pomade71 #a pint4 ,esprit de rose1 triple1 #a_/b ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade1 each1 #a_/b violet1 verbena1 each1 #b-a_/b oz4 cassie1 ,otto of lemons1 each1 #a_/d oz4 bergamot1 ,extract of musk1 each1 #a oz4 ambergris1 ,,suave4 ,extract of tubereuse1 jasmine1 from pomade1 each1 #a pint4 cassie1 rose1 vanilla1 #e oz4 musk1 each1 #b oz4 ambergris1 ,otto of bergamot1 #a_/d oz4 cloves1 #a drachm4 ,,spring ,,flowers4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade1 each1 #a pint4 violet1 rose1 triple1 #b-a_/b oz4 cassie1 #b-a_/b oz4 ,otto of bergamot1 #b drachms4 ,extract of ambergris1 #a oz4 ,the just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing perfumer4 ,its odor is truly flowery1 but peculiar to itself4 ,being unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated1 chiefly because there is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of the esprit de rose1 as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit1 to which1 and to the extract of violet1 nicely counterpoised1 so that neither odor predominates1 the peculiar character of ,spring ,flowers is due2 the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief1 although from the very nature of the ingredients it may be said to be a fleeting odor4 ,spring ,flowers is an ,englishman's invention1 but there is scarcely a perfumer in ,europe that does not attempt an imitation4 ,,tulip ,,nosegay4 ,nearly all the tulip tribe1 although beautiful to the eye1 are inodorous4 ,the variety called the ,duc ,van ,thol1 however1 yields an exquisite perfume1 but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor4 ,he1 however1 borrows its poetical name1 and makes an excellent imitation thus3-- ,extract of tubereuse1 from pomade each1 #a pint4 violet1 rose1 #a_/b orris1 #c oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #c drops4 ,,violette ,,des ,,bois4 ,under the head ,violet1 we have already explained the method of preparing the extract or essence of that modest flower4 ,the ,parisian perfumers sell a mixture of violet1 which is very beautiful1 under the title of the ,violet des ,bois1 or the ,wood ,violet1 which is made thus3-- ,extract of violet1 #a pint4 orris1 #c oz4 cassie1 #c oz4 rose 7from pomade7 #c oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #c drops4 ,this mixture1 in a general way1 gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet4 ,,windsor ,,castle ,,bouquet4 ,alcohol1 #a pint4 ,otto of neroli1 rose1 each1 #a_/d oz4 lavender1 bergamot1 cloves1 #h drops4 ,extract of orris1 #a pint4 jasmine1 each1 #a_/d cassie1 musk1 each1 #b-a_/b oz4 ambergris1 ,,yacht ,,club ,,bouquet4 ,extract of santal1 #a pint4 neroli1 #a jasmine1 each1 #a_/b rose triple1 vanilla1 #a_/d ,flowers of benzoin1 #a_/d oz4 ,we have now completed the branch of the ,art of ,perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes1 or wet perfumery4 ,although we have rather too much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of so many bouquets1 yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular4 ,those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar character of their odor1 and are selected from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried4 ,those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles4 ,,section ,,vii4 ,the previous articles have exclusively treated of ,wet ,perfumes2 the present matter relates1 to ,dry ,perfumes1--sachet powders1 tablets1 pastilles1 fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins1 c4 c4 ,the perfumes used by the ancients were1 undoubtedly1 nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs indigenous to the ,eastern hemisphere3 that they were very extensively used and much valued1 we have only to read the ,scriptures for proofs3--,who is this that cometh 444 perfumed with myrrh and frankincense1 with all the powders of the merchant8 7,song of ,solomon1 #c3f47 ,abstaining from the use of perfume in ,eastern countries is considered as a sign of humiliation3--,the ,lord will take away the tablets1 and it shall come to pass that instead of a sweet smell there shall be a stink4 7,exod4 #ce3bb2 ,isaiah #c3bj1 #bd47 ,the word tablets in this passage means perfume boxes1 curiously inlaid1 made of metal1 wood1 and ivory4 ,some of these boxes may have been made in the shape of buildings1 which would explain the word palaces1 in ,psalm #ad3h3--;,all thy garments smell of myrrh1 and aloes1 and cassia1 out of the ivory palaces1 whereby they have made thee glad4 ,from what is said in ,matt4 #b3aa1 it would appear that perfumes were considered among the most valuable gifts which man could bestow2--,and when they 7the wise men7 had opened their treasures1 they presented unto him 7,christ7 gifts2 gold1 and frankincense1 and myrrh4 ,as far as we are able to learn1 all the perfumes used by the ,egyptians and ,persians during the early period of the world were dry perfumes1 consisting of spikenard 7,nardostachys jatamansi71 myrrh1 olibanum1 and other gum-resins1 nearly all of which are still in use by the manufacturers of odors4 ,among the curiosities shown at ,alnwick ,castle is a vase that was taken from an ,egyptian catacomb4 ,it is full of a mixture of gum-resin1 c41 which evolve a pleasant odor to the present day1 although probably #cjjj years old4 ,we have no doubt that the original use of this vase and its contents were for perfuming apartments1 in the same way that pot pourri is now used4 ,,sachet ,,powders4 ,the ,french and ,english perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances1 which being put into silk bags1 or ornamental envelopes1 find a ready sale1 being both good to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers4 ,the following formula shows their composition4 ,every material is either to be ground in a mill1 or powdered in a mortar1 and afterwards sifted4 ,,sachet ,,au ,,cypre4 ,ground rose-wood1 #a lb4 cedar-wood1 #a lb4 santal-wood1 #a lb4 ,otto of rhodium1 or otto of rose1 #c drachms4 ,mix and sift2 it is then fit for sale4 ,,sachet ,a ,,la ,,frangipanne4 ,orris-root powder1 #c lbs4 ,vitivert powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,santal-wood powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of neroli1 rose1 of each1 #a drachm4 santal1 ,musk-pods1 ground1 #a oz4 ,the name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a ,roman of the noble family of ,frangipani4 ,mutio ,frangipani was an alchemist1 evidently of some repute1 as we have another article called rosolis1 or ros-solis1 sun-dew1 an aromatic spirituous liquor1 used as a stomachic1 of which he is said to be the inventor1 composed of wine1 in which is steeped coriander1 fennel1 anise1 and musk4 ,,heliotrope ,,sachet4 ,powdered orris1 #b lbs4 ,rose leaves1 ground1 #a lb4 ,tonquin beans1 ground1 #a_/b lb4 ,vanilla beans1 #a_/d lb4 ,grain musk1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #e drops4 ,well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve1 it is fit for sale4 ,it is one of the best sachets made1 and is so perfectly au naturel in its odor to the flower from which it derives its name1 that no person unacquainted with its composition would1 for an instant1 believe it to be any other than the real thing4 ,,lavender ,,sachet4 ,lavender flowers1 ground1 #a lb4 ,gum benzoin1 in powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of lavender1 #a_/d oz4 ,,sachet ,a ,,la ,,marechale4 ,powder of santal-wood1 #a_/b lb4 orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose-leaves1 ground1 #a_/d lb4 ,cloves1 ground1 #a_/d lb4 ,cassia-bark1 #a_/d lb4 ,grain musk1 #a_/b drachm4 ,,sachet ,a ,,la ,,mousselaine4 ,vitivert1 in powder1 #a lb4 ,santal-wood1 ,orris1 each1 #a_/b lb4 ,black-currant leaves 7casse71 #a_/b lb4 ,benzoin1 in powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of thyme1 #e drops4 roses1 #a_/b drachm4 ,,millefleur ,,sachet4 ,lavender-flowers1 ground1 ,orris1 each1 #a lb4 ,rose-leaves1 ,benzoin1 ,tonquin1 ,vanilla1 each1 #a_/d lb4 ,santal1 ,musk and civet1 #b drachms4 ,cloves1 ground1 #a_/d lb4 ,cinnamon1 each1 #b oz4 ,allspice1 ,,portugal ,,sachet4 ,dried orange-peel1 #a lb4 lemon-peel1 #a_/b lb4 orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of orange-peel1 #a oz4 neroli1 #a_/d drachm4 lemon-grass1 #a_/d ,,patchouly ,,sachet4 ,patchouly herb1 ground1 #a lb4 ,otto of patchouly1 #a_/d drachm4 ,patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state1 as imported1 tied up in bundles of half a pound each4 ,,pot ,,pourri4 ,this is a mixture of dried flowers and spices not ground4 ,dried lavender1 #a lb4 ,whole rose-leaves1 #a lb4 ,crushed orris 7coarse71 #a_/b lb4 ,broken cloves1 cinnamon1 each1 #b oz4 allspice1 ,table salt1 #a lb4 ,we need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to increase the bulk and weight of the product1 in order to sell it cheap4 ,,olla ,,podrida4 ,this is a similar preparation to pot pourri4 ,no regular form can be given for it1 as it is generally made1 or knocked up1 with the refuse and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of perfumery2 such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla1 or of the grain musk from the extract of musk1 orris from the tincture1 tonquin beans1 after tincturation1 c4 c41 mixed up with rose-leaves1 lavender1 or any odoriferous herbs4 ,,rose ,,sachet4 ,rose heels or leaves1 #a lb4 ,santal-wood1 ground1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/d oz4 ,,santal-,,wood ,,sachet4 ,this is a good and economical sachet1 and simply consists of the ground wood4 ,santal-wood is to be purchased from some of the wholesale drysalters2 the drug-grinders are the people to reduce it to powder for you--any attempt to do so at home will be found unavailable1 on account of its toughness4 ,,sachet 7without a name74 ,dried thyme1 lemon thyme1 of each1 #a_/d lb4 mint1 marjoram1 lavender1 #a_/b lb4 rose heels1 #a lb4 ,ground cloves1 #b oz4 ,allspice1 #b oz4 ,musk in grain1 #a drachm4 ,,vervain ,,sachet4 ,lemon-peel1 dried and ground1 #a lb4 thyme1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of lemon-grass1 #a drachm4 peel1 #a_/b oz4 bergamot1 #a oz4 ,,vitivert ,,sachet4 ,the fibrous roots of the ,anthoxanthum muricatum being ground1 constitute the sachet1 bearing the name as above1 derived from the ,tamool name1 vittie vayer1 and by the ,parisian vetiver4 ,its odor resembles myrrh4 ,vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches1 as imported from ,india1 than ground1 and is used for the prevention of moth1 rather than as a perfume4 ,,violet ,,sachet4 ,black-currant leaves 7casse71 #a lb4 ,rose heels or leaves1 #a lb4 ,orris-root powder1 #b lbs4 ,otto of almonds1 #a_/d drachm4 ,grain musk1 #a ,gum benzoin1 in powder1 #a_/b lb4 ,well mix the ingredients by sifting2 keep them together for a week in a glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale4 ,there are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given1 but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater variety than those named4 ,there are1 however1 many other substances used in a similar way2 the most popular is the ,,peau ,d',,espagne4 ,peau d',espagne1 or ,spanish skin1 is nothing more than highly perfumed leather4 ,good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos1 in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins1 thus3--,otto of neroli1 otto of rose1 santal1 of each half an ounce2 otto of lavender1 verbena1 bergamot1 of each a quarter of an ounce2 otto of cloves and cinnamon1 of each two drachms2 with any others thought fit4 ,in this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin2 now place the skin to steep in it for a day or so1 then hang it over a line to dry4 ,a paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with one drachm of grain musk1 and enough solution of gum acacia or gum tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence2 a little of any of the ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet1 c41 greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body2 the skin being cut up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over1 plaster fashion1 with the last-named compost2 two pieces being put together1 having the civet plaster inside them1 are then to be placed between sheets of paper1 weighed or pressed1 and left to dry thus for a week2 finally1 each double skin1 now called peau d',espagne1 is to be enveloped in some pretty silk or satin1 and finished off to the taste of the vender4 ,skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years1 and hence they are frequently called the inexhaustible sachet4 ,being flat1 they are much used for perfuming writing-paper4 ,the lasting odor of ,russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to many2 its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is tanned1 and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree1 with which it is curried4 ,the odor of ,russia leather is1 however1 not recherche enough to be considered as a perfume2 but1 nevertheless1 leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any sweet scent1 and which it retains to a remarkable degree1 especially with otto of santal or lemon-grass 7,verbena74 ,in this manner the odor of the peau d',espagne can be greatly varied1 and gives great satisfaction1 on account of the permanence of its perfume4 ,,perfumed ,,letter-,,paper4 ,if a piece of peau d',espagne be placed in contact with paper1 the latter absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as perfumed2 it is obvious that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous tinctures or ottos1 on account of such matters interfering with the fluidity of the ink and action of the pen2 therefore1 by the process of infection1 as it were1 alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage4 ,besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as dry perfumes1 such as scented wadding1 used for quilting into all sorts of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir4 ,pincushions1 jewel cases1 and the like are lined with it4 ,cotton1 so perfumed1 is simply steeped in some strong essence of musk1 c4 ,,perfumed ,,book-,,markers4 ,we have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous substances1 in the manufacture of peau d',espagne2 just so is card-board treated prior to being made up into book-marks4 ,in finishing them for sale1 taste alone dictates their design2 some are ornamented with beads1 others with embroidery4 ,,cassolettes ,,and ,,printaniers4 ,cassolettes and ,printaniers are little ivory boxes1 of various designs1 perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein4 ,the paste used for filling these ivory palaces whereby we are made glad1 is composed of equal parts of grain musk1 ambergris1 seeds of the vanilla-pod1 otto of roses1 and orris powder1 with enough gum acacia1 or gum tragacantha1 to work the whole together into a paste4 ,these things are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule1 much in the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used4 ,,pastils4 ,there is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils1 or pastilles1 as they are more often called1 from the ,french1 has been derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the religious services3--,according to the custom of the priest's office1 his lot 7,zacharias'7 was to burn incense when he went into the temple of the ,lord4 7,luke #a3i47 ,and thou shalt make an altar to burn incense4444 ,and ,aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning when he dresseth the lamps1 and at even when he lighteth the lamps he shall burn incense upon it4 7,exodus #cj47 ,an analogous practice is in use to the present day in the ,roman ,catholic churches1 but1 instead of being consumed upon an altar1 the incense is burned in a censer1 as doubtless many of our readers have seen4 ,as soon as the signal was given by the chief priest the incense was kindled1 the holy place was filled with perfume1 and the congregation without joined in prayers4 7,carpenters ,temple service of the ,hebrews47 ,,the ,,censer4 ,on the walls of every temple in ,egypt1 from ,meroee to ,memphis1 the censer is depicted smoking before the presiding deity of the place2 on the walls of the tombs glow in bright colors the preparation of spices and perfumes4 ,in the ,british ,museum there is a vase 7,no4 #beie7 the body of which is intended to contain a lamp1 the sides being perforated to admit the heat from the flame to act upon the projecting tubes2 which are intended to contain ottos of flowers placed in the small vases at the end of the tubes2 the heat volatilizes the ottos1 and quickly perfumes an apartment4 ,this vase or censer is from an ,egyptian catacomb4 ,illustration3 ,the ,censer4 ,the ,censer1 as used in the holy places1 is made either of brass1 ,german silver1 or the precious metals2 its form somewhat resembles a saucer and an inverted cup1 which latter is perforated1 to allow the escape of the perfume4 ,in the outer saucer is placed an inner one of copper1 which can be taken out and filled with ignited charcoal4 ,when in use1 the ignited carbon is placed in the censer1 and is then covered with the incense2 the heat rapidly volatilizes it in visible fumes4 ,the effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer1 attached to three long chains1 in the air4 ,the manner of swinging the censer varies slightly in the churches in ,rome1 in ,france1 and in ,england1 some holding it above the head4 ,at ,,la ,,madeleine the method is always to give the censer a full swing at the greatest length of the chains with the right hand1 and to catch it up short with the left hand4 ,several samples of incense prepared for altar service1 as sent out by ,mr4 ,martin1 of ,liverpool1 appear to be nothing more than gum olibanum1 of indifferent quality1 and not at all like the composition as especially commanded by ,god1 the form for which is given in full in ,exodus4 ,the pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight modification of the incense of the ancients4 ,for many years they were called ,osselets of ,cyprus4 ,in the old books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known gum-resins was called ,suffitus1 which being thrown upon hot ashes produced a vapor which was considered to be salutary in many diseases4 ,it is under the same impression that pastils are now used1 or at least to cover the mal odeur of the sick-chamber4 ,there is not much variety in the formula of the pastils that are now in use2 we have first the ,,indian1 ,,or ,,yellow ,,pastils4 ,santal-wood1 in powder1 #a lb4 ,gum benzoin1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,tolu1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of santal1 cassia1 each1 #c drachms4 cloves1 ,nitrate of potass1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,mucilage of tragacantha1 q4s4 to make the whole into a stiff paste4 ,the benzoin1 santal-wood1 and ,tolu1 are to be powdered and mixed by sifting them1 adding the ottos4 ,the nitre being dissolved in the mucilage1 is then added4 ,after well beating in a mortar1 the pastils are formed in shape with a pastil mould1 and gradually dried4 ,the ,chinese josticks are of a similar composition1 but contain no ,tolu4 ,josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the ,buddahs in the ,celestial ,empire1 and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value of santal-wood4 ,,dr4 ,,paris',s ,,pastils4 ,benzoin1 ,cascarilla1 of each1 #a_/d lb4 ,myrrh1 #a-a_/d oz4 ,charcoal1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,otto of nutmegs1 of each1 cloves1 #c_/d oz4 ,nitre1 #b oz4 ,mix as in the preceding4 ,,perfumer',s ,,pastils4 ,well-burned charcoal1 #a lb4 ,benzoin1 #c_/d lb4 ,tolu1 ,vanilla pods1 of each1 #a_/d lb4 ,cloves1 ,otto of santal1 neroli1 of each1 #b dr4 ,nitre1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,mucilage tragacantha1 q4s4 ,,piesse',s ,,pastils4 ,willow charcoal1 #a_/b lb4 ,benzoic acid1 #f oz4 ,otto of thyme1 caraway1 rose1 of each1 #a_/b dr4 lavender1 cloves1 santal1 ,prior to mixing1 dissolve #c_/d oz4 nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water2 with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal1 and then allow it to dry in a warm place4 ,when the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry1 pour over it the mixed ottos1 and stir in the flowers of benzoin4 ,when well mixed by sifting 7the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and mortar71 it is finally beaten up in a mortar1 with enough mucilage to bind the whole together1 and the less that is used the better4 ,a great variety of formulae have been published for the manufacture of pastils2 nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark1 or aromatic seeds4 ,now1 when such substances are burned1 the chemist knows that if the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion--the slow combustion--materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor2 in fact1 the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized aromatic ingredients2 it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used in lieu of other substances4 ,the use of charcoal in a pastil is merely for burning1 producing1 during its combustion1 the heat required to quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded4 ,the product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous1 and therefore does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil4 ,such is1 however1 not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of heat4 ,if combustion takes place1 which is always the case with all the aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils1 we have1 besides the volatilized otto which the wood contains1 all the compounds naturally produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter1 spoiling the true odor of the other ingredients volatilized4 ,there are1 it is true1 certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally where these products are the materials sought4 ,by such fumigation1 as when brown paper is allowed to smoulder 7undergo slow combustion7 in a room for the purpose of covering bad smells4 ,by the quick combustion of tobacco1 that is1 combustion with flame1 there is no odor developed1 but by its slow combustion1 according to the method adopted by those who indulge in the weed1 the familiar aroma1 the cloud1 is generated1 and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco4 ,now a well-made pastil should not develope any odor of its own1 but simply volatilize that fragrant matter1 whatever it be1 used in its manufacture4 ,we think that the fourth formula given above carries out that object4 ,it does not follow that the formulae that are here given produce at all times the odor that is most approved2 it is evident that in pastils1 as with other perfumes1 a great deal depends upon taste4 ,many persons very much object to the aroma of benzoin1 while they greatly admire the fumes of cascarilla4 ,,the ,,perfume ,,lamp4 ,shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol1 the late ,mr4 ,i4 ,deck1 of ,cambridge1 made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of perfuming apartments4 ,an ordinary spirit lamp is filled with ,eau de ,cologne1 and trimmed with a wick in the usual manner4 ,over the centre of the wick1 and standing about the eighth of an inch above it1 a small ball of spongy platinum is placed1 maintained in its position by being fixed to a thin glass rod1 which is inserted into the wick4 ,illustration3 ,perfume ,lamp4 ,thus arranged1 the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to burn until the platinum becomes red hot2 the flame may then be blown out1 nevertheless the platinum remains incandescent for an indefinite period4 ,the proximity of a red-hot ball to a material of the physical quality of ,eau de ,cologne1 diffused over a surface of cotton wick1 as a matter of course causes its rapid evaporation1 and as a consequence the diffusion of odor4 ,instead of the lamp being charged with ,eau de ,cologne1 we may use ,eau de ,portugal1 vervaine1 or any other spirituous essence4 ,several perfumers make a particular mixture for this purpose1 which is called ,,eau ,a ,,bruler4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a pint4 ,tincture of benzoin1 #b oz4 vanilla1 #a oz4 ,otto of thyme1 mint1 of each1 #a_/b drachm4 nutmeg1 ,another form1 called ,,eau ,,pour ,,bruler4 ,rectified spirit1 #a pint4 ,benzoic acid1 #a_/b oz4 ,otto of thyme1 of each1 #a drachm4 caraway1 bergamot1 #b oz4 ,persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps will1 however frequently observe that1 whatever difference there may be in the composition of the fluid introduced into the lamp1 there is a degree of similarity in the odor of the result when the platinum is in action4 ,this arises from the fact1 that so long as there is the vapor of alcohol1 mixed with oxygen-air1 passing over red-hot platinum1 certain definite products always result1 namely1 acetic acid1 aldehyde1 and acetal1 which are formed more or less and impart a peculiar and rather agreeable fragrance to the vapor1 but which overpowers any other odor that is present4 ,,fumigating ,,paper4 ,there are two modes of preparing this article3-- #a4 ,take sheets of light cartridge paper1 and dip them into a solution of alum--say1 alum1 one ounce2 water1 one pint4 ,after they are thoroughly moistened1 let them be well dried2 upon one side of this paper spread a mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin1 olibanum1 and either balm of ,tolu or ,peruvian balsam1 or the benzoin may be used alone4 ,to spread the gum1 c41 it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel and poured thinly over the paper1 finally smoothing the surface with a hot spatula4 ,when required for use1 slips of this paper are held over a candle or lamp1 in order to evaporate the odorous matter1 but not to ignite it4 ,the alum in the paper prevents it a to certain extent from burning4 #b4 ,sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of saltpetre1 in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one pint of water1 to be afterwards thoroughly dried4 ,any of the odoriferous gums1 as myrrh1 olibanum1 benzoin1 c41 are to be dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit1 and with a brush spread upon one side of the paper1 which1 being hung up1 rapidly dries4 ,slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills1 to be ignited1 and then to be blown out4 ,the nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion1 diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous gums4 ,if two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the surface is dry1 they will join and become as one4 ,when cut into slips1 they form what are called ,odoriferous ,lighters1 or ,perfumed ,spills4 ,,section ,,viii4 ,,perfumed ,,soap4 ,the word soap1 or sope1 from the ,greek sapo1 first occurs in the works of ,pliny and ,galen4 ,pliny informs us that soap was first discovered by the ,gauls1 that it was composed of tallow and ashes1 and that the ,german soap was reckoned the best4 ,according to ,sismondi1 the ,french historian1 a soapmaker was included in the retinue of ,charlemagne4 ,at ,pompeii 7overwhelmed by an eruption of ,vesuvius ,a4,d4 #gi71 a soap-boiler's shop with soap in it was discovered during some excavations made there not many years ago4 7,starke's ,letters from ,italy47 ,from these statements it is evident that the manufacture of soap is of very ancient origin2 indeed1 ,jeremiah figuratively mentions it--,for though thou wash thee with natron1 and take thee much soap1 yet thine iniquity is marked before me4 7,jer4 #b3bb47 ,mr4 ,wilson says that the earliest record of the soap trade in ,england is to be found in a pamphlet in the ,british ,museum1 printed in #afda1 entitled ,a short ,account of the ,soap ,business4 ,it speaks more particularly about the duty1 which was then levied for the first time1 and concerning certain patents which were granted to persons1 chiefly ,popish recusants1 for some pretended new invention of white soap1 which in truth was not so4 ,sufficient is said here to prove that at that time soap-making was no inconsiderable art4 ,it would be out of place here to enter into the details of soap-making1 because perfumers do not manufacture that substance1 but are merely remelters1 to use a trade term4 ,the dyer purchases his dye-stuffs from the drysalters already fabricated1 and these are merely modified under his hands to the various purposes he requires2 so with the perfumer1 he purchases the various soaps in their raw state from the soap-makers1 these he mixes by remelting1 scents and colors according to the article to be produced4 ,the primary soaps are divided into hard and soft soaps3 the hard soaps contain soda as the base2 those which are soft are prepared with potash4 ,these are again divisible into varieties1 according to the fatty matter employed in their manufacture1 also according to the proportion of alkali4 ,the most important of these to the perfumer is what is termed curd soap1 as it forms the basis of all the highly-scented soaps4 ,,curd ,,soap is a nearly neutral soap1 of pure soda and fine tallow4 ,,oil ,,soap1 as made in ,england1 is an uncolored combination of olive oil and soda1 hard1 close grain1 and contains but little water in combination4 ,,castile ,,soap1 as imported from ,spain1 is a similar combination1 but is colored by protosulphate of iron4 ,the solution of the salt being added to the soap after it is manufactured1 from the presence of alkali1 decomposition of the salt takes place1 and protoxide of iron is diffused through the soap of its well-known black color1 giving the familiar marbled appearance to it4 ,when the soap is cut up into bars1 and exposed to the air1 the protoxide passes by absorption of oxygen into peroxide2 hence1 a section of a bar of ,castile soap shows the outer edge red-marbled1 while the interior is black-marbled4 ,some ,castile soap is not artificially colored1 but a similar appearance is produced by the use of a barilla or soda containing sulphuret of the alkaline base1 and at other times from the presence of an iron salt4 ,,marine ,,soap is a cocoanut-oil soap1 of soda containing a great excess of alkali1 and much water combination4 ,,yellow ,,soap is a soda soap1 of tallow1 resin1 of lard1 c4 c4 ,,palm ,,soap is a soda soap of palm oil1 retaining the peculiar odor and color of the oil unchanged4 ,the odoriferous principle of palm oil resembling that from orris-root1 can be dissolved out of it by tincturation with alcohol2 like ottos generally1 it remains intact in the presence of an alkali1 hence1 soap made of palm oil retains the odor of the oil4 ,the public require a soap that will not shrink and change shape after they purchase it4 ,it must make a profuse lather during the act of washing4 ,it must not leave the skin rough after using it4 ,it must be either quite inodorous or have a pleasant aroma4 ,none of the above soaps possess all these qualities in union1 and1 therefore1 to produce such an article is the object of the perfumer in his remelting process4 ,prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap1 in #ahec1 it was a commercial impossibility for a perfumer to manufacture soap1 because the law did not allow less than one ton of soap to be made at a time4 ,this law1 which1 with certain modifications had been in force since the reign of ,charles ,i1 confined the actual manufacture of that article to the hands of a few capitalists4 ,such law1 however1 was but of little importance to the perfumer1 as a soap-boiling plant and apparatus is not very compatible with a laboratory of flowers2 yet1 in some exceptional instances1 these excise regulations interfered with him2 such1 for instance1 as that in making soft soap of lard and potash1 known1 when perfumed1 as ,creme d',amande2 or unscented1 as a ,saponaceous ,cream1 which has1 in consequence of that law1 been entirely thrown into the hands of our continental neighbors4 ,,fig ,,soft ,,soap is a combination of oils1 principally olive oil of the commonest kind1 with potash4 ,,naples ,,soft ,,soap is a fish oil 7mixed with ,lucca oil7 and potash1 colored brown for the ,london shavers1 retaining1 when pure1 its unsophisticated fishy odor4 ,the above soaps constitute the real body or base of all the fancy scented soaps as made by the perfumers1 which are mixed and remelted according to the following formula3-- ,the remelting process is exceedingly simple4 ,the bar soap is first cut up into thin slabs1 by pressing them against a wire fixed upon the working bench4 ,this cutting wire 7piano wire is the kind7 is made taut upon the bench1 by being attached to two screws4 ,these screws regulate the height of the wire from the bench1 and hence the thickness of the slabs from the bars4 ,the soap is cut up into thin slabs1 because it would be next to impossible to melt a bar whole1 on account of soap being one of the worst conductors of heat4 ,the melting pan is an iron vessel1 of various sizes1 capable of holding from #bh lbs4 to #c cwt41 heated by a steam jacket1 or by a water-bath4 ,the soap is put into the pan by degrees1 or what is in the vernacular called rounds1 that is1 the thin slabs are placed perpendicularly all round the side of the pan2 a few ounces of water are at the same time introduced1 the steam of which assists the melting4 ,the pan being covered up1 in about half an hour the soap will have run down4 ,another round is then introduced1 and so continued every half hour until the whole melting is finished4 ,the more water a soap contains1 the easier is it melted2 hence a round of marine soap1 or of new yellow soap1 will run down in half the time that it requires for old soap4 ,when different soaps are being remelted to form one kind when finished1 the various sorts are to be inserted into the pan in alternate rounds1 but each round must consist only of one kind1 to insure uniformity of condition4 ,as the soap melts1 in order to mix it1 and to break up lumps1 c41 it is from time to time crutched4 ,the crutch is an instrument or tool for stirring up the soap2 its name is indicative of its form1 a long handle with a short cross--an inverted ',t'1 curved to fit the curve of the pan4 ,when the soaps are all melted1 it is then colored1 if so required1 and then the perfume is added1 the whole being thoroughly incorporated with the crutch4 ,illustration3 ,frame and ,slab ,gauge4 ,the soap is then turned into the frame4 ,the frame is a box made in sections1 in order that it can be taken to pieces1 so that the soap can be cut up when cold2 the sections or lifts are frequently made of the width of the intended bar of soap4 ,illustration3 ,barring ,gauge4 ,two or three days after the soap has been in the frame1 it is cool enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or sections of the frame2 these slabs are set up edgeways to cool for a day or two more2 it is then barred by means of a wire4 ,the lifts of the frame regulate the widths of the bars2 the gauge regulates their breadth4 ,the density of the soap being pretty well known1 the gauges are made so that the soap-cutter can cut up the bars either into fours1 sixes1 or eights2 that is1 either into squares of four1 six1 or eight to the pound weight4 ,latterly1 various mechanical arrangements have been introduced for soap-cutting1 which in very large establishments1 such as those at ,marseilles in ,france1 are great economisers of labor2 but in ,england the wire is still used4 ,illustration3 ,squaring ,gauge4 ,illustration3 ,soap ,scoop4 ,for making tablet shapes the soap is first cut into squares1 and is then put into a mould1 and finally under a press--a modification of an ordinary die or coin press4 ,balls are cut by hand1 with the aid of a little tool called a scoop1 made of brass or ivory1 being1 in fact1 a ring-shaped knife4 ,balls are also made in the press with a mould of appropriate form4 ,the grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained by the press and appropriate moulds4 ,the fruit-shaped soaps1 after leaving the mould1 are dipped into melted wax1 and are then colored according to artificial fruit-makers' rules4 ,illustration3 ,soap ,press4 ,illustration3 ,moulds4 ,the variegated colored soaps are produced by adding the various colors1 such as smalt and vermilion1 previously mixed with water1 to the soap in a melted state2 these colors are but slightly crutched in1 hence the streaky appearance or party color of the soap2 this kind is also termed marbled soap4 ,,almond ,,soap4 ,this soap1 by some persons supposed to be made of sweet almond oil1 and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds1 is in reality constituted thus3-- ,finest curd soap1 #a cwt4 oil soap1 #ad lbs4 marine1 #ad lbs4 ,otto of almonds1 #a-a_/b lb4 cloves1 #a_/d lb4 caraway1 #a_/b lb4 ,by the time that half the curd soap is melted1 the marine soap is to be added2 when this is well crutched1 then add the oil soap1 and finish with the remaining curd4 ,when the whole is well melted1 and just before turning it into the frame1 crutch in the mixed perfume4 ,some of the soap houses endeavored to use ,mirabane or artificial essence of almonds 7see ,,almond7 for perfuming soap1 it being far cheaper than the true otto of almonds2 but the application has proved so unsatisfactory in practice1 that it has been abandoned by ,messrs4 ,gibbs1 ,pineau 7of ,paris71 ,gosnell1 and others who used it4 ,,camphor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #bh lbs4 ,otto of rosemary1 #a-a_/d lb4 ,camphor1 #a-a_/d lb4 ,reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil1 then sift it4 ,when the soap is melted and ready to turn out1 add the camphor and rosemary1 using the crutch for mixing4 ,,honey ,,soap4 ,best yellow soap1 #a cwt4 ,fig soft soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto of citronella1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,,white ,,windsor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #a cwt4 ,marine soap1 #ba lbs4 ,oil soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto of caraway1 #a-a_/b lbs4 thyme1 rosemary1 of each #a_/b lb4 cassia1 cloves1 of each #a_/d lb4 ,,brown ,,windsor ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #c_/d cwt4 ,marine soap1 #a_/d ,yellow soap1 #a_/d ,oil soap1 #a_/d ,brown coloring 7caramel71 #a_/b pint4 ,otto of caraway1 cloves1 thyme1 each1 #a_/b lb4 cassia1 petit grain1 ,french lavender1 ,,sand ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,marine soap1 #g lbs4 ,sifted silver sand1 #bh lbs4 ,otto of thyme1 cassia1 caraway1 each1 #b oz4 ,french lavender1 ,,fuller',s ,,earth ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #aj-a_/b lbs4 ,marine soap1 #c-a_/b lbs4 ,fuller's earth 7baked71 #ad lbs4 ,otto of ,french lavender1 #b oz4 origanum1 #a oz4 ,the above forms are indicative of the method adopted for perfuming soaps while hot or melted4 ,all the very highly scented soaps are1 however1 perfumed cold1 in order to avoid the loss of scent1 #bj per cent4 of perfume being evaporated by the hot process4 ,the variously named soaps1 from the sublime ,sultana to the ridiculous ,turtle's ,marrow1 we cannot of course be expected to notice2 the reader may1 however1 rest assured that he has lost nothing by their omission4 ,the receipts given produce only the finest quality of the article named4 ,where cheap soaps are required1 not much acumen is necessary to discern that by omitting the expensive perfumes1 or lessening the quantity1 the object desired is attained4 ,still lower qualities of scented soap are made by using greater proportions of yellow soap1 and employing a very common curd1 omitting the oil soap altogether4 ,,scenting ,,soaps ,,hot4 ,in the previous remarks1 the methods explained of scenting soap involved the necessity of melting it4 ,the high temperature of the soap under these circumstances involves the obvious loss of a great deal of perfume by evaporation4 ,with very highly scented soaps1 and with perfume of an expensive character1 the loss of ottos is too great to be borne in a commercial sense2 hence the adoption of the plan of ,,scenting ,,soaps ,,cold4 ,this method is exceedingly convenient and economical for scenting small batches1 involving merely mechanical labor1 the tools required being simply an ordinary carpenter's plane1 and a good marble mortar1 and lignum vitae pestle4 ,the woodwork of the plane must be fashioned at each end1 so that when placed over the mortar it remains firm and not easily moved by the parallel pressure of the soap against its projecting blade4 ,to commence operations1 we take first #g lbs41 #ad lbs41 or #ba lbs4 of the bars of the soap that it is intended to perfume4 ,the plane is now laid upside down across the top of the mortar4 ,things being thus arranged1 the whole of the soap is to be pushed across the plane until it is all reduced into fine shavings4 ,like the ,french ,charbonnier1 who does not saw the wood1 but woods the saw1 so it will be perceived that in this process we do not plane the soap1 but that we soap the plane1 the shavings of which fall lightly into the mortar as quickly as produced4 ,illustration3 ,soaping the ,plane4 ,soap1 as generally received from the maker1 is the proper condition for thus working2 but if it has been in stock any time it becomes too hard1 and must have from one to three ounces of distilled water sprinkled in the shaving for every pound of soap employed1 and must lay for at least twenty-four hours to be absorbed before the perfume is added4 ,when it is determined what size the cakes of soap are to be1 what they are to sell for1 and what it is intended they should cost1 then the maker can measure out his perfume4 ,in a general way1 soaps scented in this way retail from #ds4 to #ajs4 per pound1 bearing about #ajj per cent4 profit1 which is not too much considering their limited sale4 ,the soap being in a proper physical condition with regard to moisture1 c41 is now to have the perfume well stirred into it4 ,the pestle is then set to work for the process of incorporation4 ,after a couple of hours of warm exercise1 the soap is generally expected to be free from streaks1 and to be of one uniform consistency4 ,for perfuming soap in large portions by the cold process1 instead of using the pestle and mortar as an incorporator1 it is more convenient and economical to employ a mill similar in construction to a cake chocolate-mill1 or a flake cocoa-mill2 any mechanical apparatus that answers for mixing paste and crushing lumps will serve pretty well for blending soap together4 ,before going into the mill1 the soap is to be reduced to shavings1 and have the scent and color stirred in2 after leaving it1 the flakes or ribands of soap are to be finally bound together by the pestle and mortar into one solid mass2 it is then weighed out in quantities for the tablets required1 and moulded by the hand into egg-shaped masses2 each piece being left in this condition1 separately laid in rows on a sheet of white paper1 dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for the press1 which is the same as that previously mentioned4 ,it is usual1 before placing the cakes of soap in the press1 to dust them over with a little starch-powder1 or else to very slightly oil the mould2 either of these plans prevents the soap from adhering to the letters or embossed work of the mould--a condition essential for turning out a clean well-struck tablet4 ,the body of all the fine soaps mentioned below should consist of the finest and whitest curd soap1 or of a soap previously melted and colored to the required shade1 thus3-- ,,rose-,,colored ,,soap is curd soap stained with vermilion1 ground in water1 thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted1 and not very hot4 ,,green ,,soap is a mixture of palm oil soap and curd soap1 to which is added powdered smalt ground with water4 ,,blue ,,soap1 curd soap colored with smalt4 ,,brown ,,soap1 curd soap with caramel1 i4e4 burnt sugar4 ,the intensity of color varies1 of course1 with the quantity of coloring4 ,some kinds of soap become colored or tinted to a sufficient extent by the mere addition of the ottos used for scenting1 such as spermaceti soap1 lemon soap1 c41 which become of a beautiful pale lemon color by the mere mixing of the perfume with the curd soap4 ,,otto ,,of ,,rose ,,soap4 7,to retail at #ajs4 per pound47 ,curd soap 7previously colored with vermilion71 #d-a_/b lbs4 ,otto of rose1 #a oz4 ,spirituous extract of musk1 #b oz4 ,otto of santal1 #a_/d oz4 geranium1 #a_/d oz4 ,mix the perfumes1 stir them in the soap shavings1 and beat together4 ,,tonquin ,,musk ,,soap4 ,pale brown-colored curd soap1 #e lbs4 ,grain musk1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 ,rub the musk with the bergamot1 then add it to the soap1 and beat up4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,otto of neroli1 #c-a_/b oz4 ,,santal-,,wood ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #g lbs4 ,otto of santal1 #g oz4 bergamot1 #b oz4 ,,spermaceti ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #ad lbs4 ,otto of bergamot1 #b-a_/b lbs4 lemon1 #a_/b lb4 ,,citron ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #f lbs4 ,otto of citron1 #c_/d lb4 verbena 7lemon-grass71 #a_/b oz4 bergamot1 #d oz4 lemon1 #b oz4 ,one of the best of fancy soaps that is made4 ,,frangipanne ,,soap4 ,curd soap 7previously colored light brown71 #g lbs4 ,civet1 #a_/d oz4 ,otto of neroli1 #a_/b oz4 santal1 #a-a_/b oz4 rose1 #a_/d oz4 vitivert1 #a_/b oz4 ,rub the civet with the various ottos1 mix1 and beat in the usual manner4 ,,patchouly ,,soap4 ,curd soap1 #d-a_/b lbs4 ,otto of patchouly1 #a oz4 santal1 vitivert1 of each1 #a_/d oz4 ,,saponaceous ,,cream ,,of ,,almonds4 ,the preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap of lard4 ,it has a beautiful pearly appearance1 and has met with extensive demand as a shaving soap4 ,being also used in the manufacture of ,,emulsines1 it is an article of no inconsiderable consumption by the perfumer4 ,it is made thus3-- ,clarified lard1 #g lbs4 ,potash of lye 7containing #bf per cent4 of caustic potash71 #c-c_/d lbs4 ,rectified spirit1 #c oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #b drachms4 ,manipulation4--,melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by a salt-water bath1 or by a steam heat under #ae lbs4 pressure2 then run in the lye1 very slowly1 agitating the whole time2 when about half the lye is in1 the mixture begins to curdle2 it will1 however1 become so firm that it cannot be stirred4 ,the creme is then finished1 but is not pearly2 it will1 however1 assume that appearance by long trituration in a mortar1 gradually adding the alcohol1 in which has been dissolved the perfume4 ,,soap ,,powders4 ,these preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifrice and at others for shaving2 they are made by reducing the soap into shavings by a plane1 then thoroughly drying them in a warm situation1 afterwards grinding in a mill1 then perfuming with any otto desired4 ,,rypophagon ,,soap4 ,best yellow soap1 ,fig soft soap1 equal parts melted together4 ,perfume with anise and citronella4 ,,ambrosial ,,cream4 ,color the grease very strongly with alkanet root1 then proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous cream4 ,the cream colored in this way has a blue tint2 when it is required of a purple color we have merely to stain the white saponaceous cream with a mixture of vermilion and smalt to the shade desired4 ,perfume with otto of oringeat4 ,,transparent ,,soft ,,soap4 ,solution caustic potash 7,lond4 ,ph471 #f lbs4 ,olive oil1 #a lb4 ,perfume to taste4 ,before commencing to make the soap1 reduce the potash lye to one half its bulk by continued boiling4 ,now proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous cream4 ,after standing a few days1 pour off the waste liquor4 ,,transparent ,,hard ,,soap4 ,reduce the soap to shavings1 and dry them as much as possible1 then dissolve in alcohol1 using as little spirit as will effect the solution1 then color and perfume as desired1 and cast the product in appropriate moulds2 finally dry in a warm situation4 ,until the ,legislature allows spirit to be used for manufacturing purposes1 free of duty1 we cannot compete with our neighbors in this article4 ,,juniper ,,tar ,,soap4 ,this soap is made from the tar of the wood of the ,juniperus communis1 by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable oil1 such as almond or olive oil1 or in fine tallow1 and forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye1 after the customary manner4 ,this yields a moderately firm and clear soap1 which may be readily used by application to parts affected with eruptions at night1 mixed with a little water1 and carefully washed off the following morning4 ,this soap has lately been much used for eruptive disorders1 particularly on the ,continent1 and with varying degrees of success4 ,it is thought that the efficient element in its composition is a rather less impure hydrocarburet than that known in ,paris under the name huile de cade4 ,on account of its ready miscibility with water1 it possesses great advantage over the common tar ointment4 ,,medicated ,,soaps4 ,six years ago ,i began making a series of medicated soaps1 such as ,,sulphur ,,soap1 ,,iodine ,,soap1 ,,bromine ,,soap1 ,,creosote ,,soap1 ,,mercurial ,,soap1 ,,croton ,,oil ,,soap1 and many others4 ,these soaps are prepared by adding the medicant to curd soap1 and then making in a tablet form for use4 ,for sulphur soap1 the curd soap may be melted1 and flowers of sulphur added while the soap is in a soft condition4 ,for antimony soap and mercurial soap1 the low oxides of the metals employed may also be mixed in the curd soap in a melted state4 ,iodine1 bromine1 creosote soap1 and others containing very volatile substances1 are best prepared cold by shaving up the curd soap in a mortar1 and mixing the medicant with it by long beating4 ,in certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to believe that they will prove of infinite service as auxiliaries to the general treatment4 ,it is obvious that the absorbent vessels of the skin are very active during the lavoratory process2 such soap must not1 therefore1 be used except by the special advice of a medical man4 ,probably these soaps will be found useful for internal application4 ,the precedent of the use of ,castile soap 7containing oxide of iron7 renders it likely that when prejudice has passed away1 such soaps will find a place in the pharmacopoeias4 ,the discovery of the solubility1 under certain conditions1 of the active alkaloids1 quinine1 morphia1 c41 in oil1 by ,mr4 ,w4 ,bastick1 greatly favors the supposition of analogous compounds in soap4 ,,section ,,ix4 ,,emulsines4 ,from soaps proper we now pass to those compounds used as substitutes for soap1 which are classed together under one general title as above1 for the reason that all cosmetiques herein embraced have the property of forming emulsions with water4 ,chemically considered1 they are an exceedingly interesting class of compounds1 and are well worthy of study4 ,being prone to decomposition1 as might be expected from their composition1 they should be made only in small portions1 or1 at least1 only in quantities to meet a ready sale4 ,while in stock they should be kept as cool as possible1 and free from a damp atmosphere4 ,,amandine4 ,fine almond oil1 #g lbs4 ,simple syrup1,e #d oz4 ,white soft soap1 or saponaceous cream1 i4e4 ,creme d',amande1 #a oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #a oz4 bergamot1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a_/b oz4 ,rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture is homogeneous1 then rub in the oil by degrees2 the perfume having been previously mixed with the oil4 ,illustration3 ,oil-,runner in ,emulsine ,process4 ,in the manufacture of amandine 7and olivine7 the difficulty is to get in the quantity of oil indicated1 without which it does not assume that transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have4 ,to attain this end1 the oil is put into a runner1 that is1 a tin or glass vessel1 at the bottom of which is a small faucet and spigot1 or tap4 ,the oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run slowly into the mortar in which the amandine is being made1 just as fast as the maker finds that he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and syrup2 and so long as this takes place1 the result will always have a jelly texture to the hand4 ,if1 however1 the oil be put into the mortar quicker than the workman can blend it with the paste1 then the paste becomes oiled1 and may be considered as done for1 unless1 indeed1 the whole process be gone through again1 starting off with fresh syrup and soap1 using up the greasy mass as if it were pure oil4 ,this liability to go off1 increases as the amandine nears the finish2 hence extra caution and plenty of elbow grease must be used during the addition of the last two pounds of oil4 ,if the oil be not perfectly fresh1 or if the temperature of the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat1 it will be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the formula into combination2 when the mass becomes bright and of a crystalline lustre1 it will be well to stop the further addition of oil to it4 ,this and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made1 and the lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper1 to exclude air4 ,when the amandine is filled into the jars1 the top or face of it is marked or ornamented with a tool made to the size of half the diameter of the interior of the jar1 in a similar way to a saw2 a piece of lead or tortoise-shell1 being serrated with an angular file1 or piece of an old saw1 will do very well2 place the marker on the amandine1 and turn the jar gently round4 ,,olivine4 ,gum acacia1 in powder1 #b oz4 ,honey1 #f oz4 ,yolk of eggs1 in number1 #e4 ,white soft soap1 #c oz4 ,olive oil1 #b lbs4 ,green oil1 #a oz4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 lemon1 #a oz4 cloves1 #a_/b oz4 thyme and cassia1 each1 #a_/b drachm4 ,rub the gum and honey together until incorporated1 then add the soap and egg4 ,having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive oil1 the mixture is to be placed in the runner1 and the process followed exactly as indicated for amandine4 ,,honey ,,and ,,almond ,,paste4 7,pate d',amande au ,miel47 ,bitter almonds1 blanched and ground1 #a_/b lb4 ,honey1 #a lb4 ,yolk of eggs1 in number1 #h4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a_/d oz4 cloves1 #a_/d oz4 ,rub the eggs and honey together first1 then gradually add the oil1 and finally the ground almonds and the perfume4 ,,almond ,,paste4 ,bitter almonds1 blanched and ground1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,rose-water1 #a-a_/b pint4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #af oz4 ,otto of bergamot1 #c oz4 ,place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stewpan2 with a slow and steady heat1 cook the almonds until their granular texture assumes a pasty form1 constantly stirring the mixture during the whole time1 otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan1 and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odor4 ,the large quantity of otto of almonds which is volatilized during the process1 renders it essential that the operator should avoid the vapor as much as possible4 ,when the almonds are nearly cooked1 the remaining water is to be added2 finally the paste is put into a mortar1 and well rubbed with the pestle2 then the perfume and spirit are added4 ,before potting this paste1 as well as honey paste1 it should be passed through a medium fine sieve1 to insure uniformity of texture1 especially as almonds do not grind kindly4 ,other pastes1 such as ,pate de ,pistache1 ,pate de ,cocos1 ,pate de ,guimauve1 are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is unnecessary to say more about them here1 than that they must not be confounded with preparations bearing a similar name made by confectioners4 ,,almond ,,meal4 ,ground almonds1 #a lb4 ,wheat flour1 #a lb4 ,orris-root powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of lemon1 #a_/b oz4 almonds1 #a_/d drachm4 ,,pistachio ,,nut ,,meal1 ,,or ,,any ,,other ,,nut4 ,pistachio nuts 7decorticated as almonds are bleached71 #a lb4 ,orris powder1 #a lb4 ,otto of neroli1 #a drachm4 lemons1 #a_/b oz4 ,other meals1 such as perfumed oatmeal1 perfumed bran1 c41 are occasionally in demand1 and are prepared as the foregoing4 ,all the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory process as substitutes for soap1 and to render the skin pliant1 soft1 and fair6 ,,emulsin ,,au ,,jasmin4 ,saponaceous cream1 #a oz4 ,simple syrup1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,best jasmine oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,,emulsin ,a ,,le ,,violette4 ,saponaceous cream1 #a oz4 ,syrup of violets1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,best violet oil1 #a-a_/b lb4 ,emulsin of other odors can be prepared with tubereuse1 rose1 or cassie 7acacia7 oil 7prepared by enfleurage or maceration74 ,for the methods of mixing the ingredients1 see ,amandine1 p4 #aie4 ,on account of the high price of the ,french oils1 these preparations are expensive1 but they are undoubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques4 ,,section ,x4 ,,milk1 ,,or ,,emulsions4 ,in the perfumery trade1 few articles meet with a more ready sale than that class of cosmetiques denominated milks4 ,it has long been known that nearly all the seeds of plants which are called nuts1 when decorticated and freed from their pellicle1 on being reduced to a pulpy mass1 and rubbed with about four times their weight of water1 produce fluid which has every analogy to cow's milk4 ,the milky appearance of these emulsions is due to the minute mechanical division of the oil derived from the nuts being diffused through the water4 ,all these emulsions possess great chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition1 and the products emanating from their fermentation1 especially that made with sweet almonds and pistachios 7,pistachia vera74 ,in the manufacture of various milks for sale1 careful manipulation is of the utmost importance1 otherwise these emulsions will not keep2 hence more loss than profit4 ,transformation takes place in the elements of vegetable caseine 7existing in seeds7 from the very moment that sweet almonds are converted into almond-milk4--,,liebig4 ,this accounts for the difficulty many persons find in making milk of almonds that does not spontaneously divide1 a day or so after its manufacture4 ,,milk ,,of ,,roses4 ,valencia almonds 7blanched71 #a_/b lb4 ,rose-water1 #a quart4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #a_/d pint4 ,otto of rose1 #a drachm4 ,white wax1 spermaceti1 oil soap1 each1 #a_/b oz4 ,manipulation4--,shave up the soap1 and place it in a vessel that can be heated by steam or water-bath2 add to it two or three ounces of rose-water4 ,when the soap is perfectly melted1 add the wax and spermaceti1 without dividing them more than is necessary to obtain the correct weight2 this insures their melting slowly1 and allows time for their partial saponification by the fluid soap2 occasional stirring is necessary4 ,while this is going on1 blanch the almonds1 carefully excluding every particle that is in the least way damaged4 ,now proceed to beat up the almonds in a scrupulously clean mortar1 allowing the rose-water to trickle into the mass by degrees2 the runner1 as used for the oil in the manufacture of olivine1 is very convenient for this purpose4 ,when the emulsion of almonds is thus finished1 it is to be strained1 without pressure1 through clean washed muslin 7new muslin often contains starch1 flour1 gum1 or dextrine74 ,the previously-formed saponaceous mixture is now to be placed in the mortar1 and the ready-formed emulsion in the runner2 the soapy compound and the emulsion is then carefully blended together4 ,as the last of the emulsion runs into the mortar1 the spirit1 in which the otto of roses has been dissolved1 is to take its place1 and to be gradually trickled into the other ingredients4 ,a too sudden addition of the spirit frequently coagulates the milk and causes it to be curdled2 as it is1 the temperature of the mixture rises1 and every means must be taken to keep it down2 the constant agitation and cold mortar effecting that object pretty well4 ,finally1 the now formed milk of roses is to be strained4 ,the almond residue may be washed with a few ounces of fresh rose-water1 in order to prevent any loss in bulk to the whole given quantity4 ,the newly-formed milk should be placed into a bottle having a tap in it about a quarter of an inch from the bottom4 ,after standing perfectly quiet for twenty-four hours it is fit to bottle4 ,all the above precautions being taken1 the milk of roses will keep any time without precipitate or creamy supernatation4 ,these directions apply to all the other forms of milk now given4 ,,milk ,,of ,,almonds4 ,bitter almonds 7blanched71 #aj oz4 ,distilled 7or rose7 water1 #a quart4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #c_/d pint4,f ,otto of almonds1 #a_/b drachm4 bergamot1 #b drachms4 ,wax1 spermaceti1 ,almond oil1 curd soap1 each1 #a_/b oz4 ,,milk ,,of ,,elder4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,elder-flower water1 #a pint4 ,alcohol 7#fj o4p471 #h oz4 ,oil of elder flowers1 prepared by maceration1 #a_/b oz4 ,wax1 sperm1 soap1 each1 #a_/b oz4 ,,milk ,,of ,,dandelion4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,rose-water1 #a pint4 ,expressed juice of dandelion root1 #a oz4 ,esprit tubereuse1 #h oz4 ,green oil1 wax1 ,curd soap1 each #a_/b oz4 ,let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh pressed2 as it is in itself an emulsion1 it may be put into the mortar after the almonds are broken up1 and stirred with the water and spirit in the usual manner4 ,,milk ,,of ,,cucumber4 ,sweet almonds1 #d oz4 ,expressed juice of cucumbers1 #a pint4 ,spirit 7#fj o4p471 #h oz4 ,essence of cucumbers1 #a_/d pint4 ,green oil1 wax1 ,curd soap1 each #a_/b oz4 ,raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute1 cool it as quickly as possible1 then strain through fine muslin2 proceed to manipulate in the usual manner4 ,,essence ,,of ,,cucumbers4 ,break up in a mortar #bh lbs4 of good fresh cucumbers2 with the pulp produced mix #b pints rectified spirit 7sp4 gr4 4#hcg71 and allow the mixture to stand for a day and night2 then distil the whole1 and draw off a pint and a half4 ,the distillation may be continued so as to obtain another pint fit for ulterior purposes4 ,,creme ,,de ,,pistache4 7,milk of ,pistachio ,nuts47 ,pistachio nuts1 #c oz4 ,orange-flower water1 #c-a_/d pints4 ,esprit neroli1 #c_/d pint4 ,palm soap1 ,green oil1 wax1 each1 #a oz4 ,spermaceti1 ,,lait ,,virginal4 ,rose-water1 #a quart4 ,tincture benzoin1 #a_/b oz4 ,add the water very slowly to the tincture2 by so doing an opalescent milky fluid is produced1 which will retain its consistency for many years2 by reversing this operation1 pouring the tincture into the water1 a cloudy precipitate of the resinous matter ensues1 which does not again become readily suspended in the water4 ,,extract ,,of ,,elder ,,flowers4 ,elder-flower water1 #a quart4 ,tincture benzoin1 #a oz4 ,manipulate as for virgin's milk4 ,similar compounds may1 of course1 be made with orange-flower and other waters4 ,,section ,,xi4 ,,cold ,,cream4 ,,galen1 the celebrated physician of ,pergamos1 in ,asia1 but who distinguished himself at ,athens1 ,alexandria1 and ,rome1 about #agjj years ago1 was the inventor of that peculiar unguent1 a mixture of grease and water1 which is now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery1 and as ,ceratum ,galeni in ,pharmacy4 ,the modern formula for cold cream is1 however1 quite a different thing to that given in the works of ,galen in point of odor and quality1 although substantially the same--grease and water4 ,in perfumery there are several kinds of cold cream1 distinguished by their odor1 such as that of camphor1 almond1 violet1 roses1 c4 ,cold cream1 as made by ,english perfumers1 bears a high reputation1 not only at home1 but throughout ,europe2 the quantity exported1 and which can only be reckoned by jars in hundreds of dozens1 and the repeated announcements that may be seen in the shops on the ,continent1 in ,germany1 ,france1 and ,italy1 of ,cold ,creme ,anglaise1 is good proof of the estimation in which it is held4 ,,rose ,,cold ,,cream4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,rose-water1 #a lb4 ,white wax1 spermaceti1 each1 #a oz4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/b drachm4 ,manipulation4--,into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel1 which should be deep in preference to shallow1 and capable of holding twice the quantity of cream that is to be made1 place the wax and sperm2 now put the jar into a boiling bath of water2 when these materials are melted1 add the oil1 and again subject the whole to heat until the flocks of wax and sperm are liquefied2 now remove the jar and contents1 and set it under a runner containing the rose-water3 the runner may be a tin can1 with a small tap at the bottom1 the same as used for the manufacture of milk of roses4 ,a stirrer must be provided1 made of lancewood1 flat1 and perforated with holes the size of a sixpence1 resembling in form a large palette-knife4 ,as soon as the rose-water is set running1 the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the water has passed into it2 now and then the flow of water must be stopped1 and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar scraped down1 and incorporated with that which remains fluid4 ,when the whole of the water has been incorporated1 the cream will be cool enough to pour into the jars for sale2 at that time the otto of rose is to be added4 ,the reason for the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious--the heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary loss by evaporation4 ,cold cream made in this way sets quite firmly in the jars into which it is poured1 and retains a face resembling pure wax1 although one-half is water retained in the interstices of the cream4 ,when the pots are well glazed1 it will keep good for one or two years4 ,if desired for exportation to the ,east or ,west ,indies1 it should always be sent out in stoppered bottles4 ,,cold ,,cream ,,of ,,almonds ,is prepared precisely as the above2 but in place of otto of roses otto of almonds is used4 ,,violet ,,cold ,,cream4 ,huile violette1 #a lb4 ,rose-water1 #a lb4 ,wax and spermaceti1 each1 #a oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #e drops4 ,,violet ,,cold ,,cream4 ,,imitation4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,huile cassie1 #a_/d lb4 ,rose-water1 #a lb4 ,sperm and wax1 #a oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #a_/d drachm4 ,this is an elegant and economical preparation1 generally admired4 ,,tubereuse1 ,,jasmine1 ,,and ,,fleur ,d',,orange ,,cold ,,creams4 ,are prepared in similar manner to violet 7first form72 they are all very exquisite preparations1 but as they cost more than rose cold cream1 perfumers are not much inclined to introduce them in lieu of the latter4 ,,camphor ,,cold ,,cream4 7,otherwise ,camphor ,ice47 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,rose-water1 #a lb4 ,wax and ,spermaceti1 #a oz4 ,camphor1 #b oz4 ,otto of rosemary1 #a drachm4 ,melt the camphor1 wax1 and sperm1 in the oil1 then manipulate as for cold cream of roses4 ,,cucumber ,,cold ,,cream4 7,creme de ,concombre47 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,green oil1 #a oz4 ,juice of cucumber1 #a lb4 ,wax and sperm1 each1 #a oz4 ,otto of neroli1 #a_/d drachm4 ,the cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the fruit to pressure in the ordinary tincture press4 ,it must be raised to a temperature high enough to coagulate the small portion of albumen which it contains1 and then strained through fine linen1 as the heat is detrimental to the odor on account of the great volatility of the otto of cucumber4 ,the following method may be adopted with advantage3--,slice the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter1 and place them in the oil2 after remaining together for twenty-four hours1 repeat the operation1 using fresh fruit in the strained oil2 no warmth is necessary1 or at most1 not more than a summer heat2 then proceed to make the cold cream in the usual manner1 using the almond oil thus odorized1 the rose-water1 and other ingredients in the regular way1 perfuming1 if necessary1 with a little neroli4 ,another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found among the ,parisians1 which is lard simply scented with the juice from the fruit1 thus3--,the lard is liquefied by heat in a vessel subject to a water-bath2 the cucumber juice is then stirred well into it2 the vessel containing the ingredients is now placed in a quiet situation to cool4 ,the lard will rise to the surface1 and when cold must be removed from the fluid juice2 the same manipulation being repeated as often as required1 according to the strength of odor of the fruit desired in the grease4 ,,pivers' ,,pomade ,,of ,,cucumber4 ,benzoinated lard1 #f lbs4 ,spermaceti1 #b lbs4 ,essence of cucumbers1 #a lb4 ,melt the stearine with the lard1 then keep it constantly in motion while it cools1 now beat the grease in a mortar1 gradually adding the essence of cucumbers2 continue to beat the whole until the spirit is evaporated1 and the pomade is beautifully white4 ,melons and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in the same way4 7,see ,essence of ,cucumbers1 p4 #bjd47 ,,pomade ,,divine4 ,among the thousand and one quack nostrums1 pomade divine1 like ,james's powder1 has obtained a reputation far above the most sanguine expectations of its concoctors4 ,this article strictly belongs to the druggist1 being sold as a remedial agent2 nevertheless1 what is sold is almost always vended by the perfumer4 ,it is prepared thus3-- ,spermaceti1 #a_/d lb4 ,lard1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,gum benzoin1 #a_/d lb4 ,vanilla beans1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water-bath at a temperature not exceeding #ij deg4 ,c4 ,after five or six hours it is fit to strain1 and may be poured into the bottles for sale4 7,must be stamped if its medicinal qualities are stated47 ,,almond ,,balls4 ,purified suet1 #a lb4 ,white wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of almonds1 #a drachm4 cloves1 #a_/d drachm4 ,,camphor ,,balls4 ,purified suet1 #a lb4 ,white wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,camphor1 #a_/d lb4 ,otto of ,french lavender or rosemary1 #a_/b oz4 ,both the above articles are sold either white or colored with alkanet root4 ,when thoroughly melted1 the material is cast in a mould2 ounce gallipots with smooth bottoms answer very well for casting in4 ,some venders use only large pill-boxes4 ,,camphor ,,paste4 ,sweet almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,purified lard1 #a_/d lb4 ,wax and spermaceti1 ,camphor1 each1 #a oz4 ,,glycerine ,,balsam4 ,white wax1 ,spermaceti1 each1 #a oz4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,glycerine1 #b oz4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/d drachm4 ,of the remedial action of any of the above preparations we cannot here discuss2 in giving the formulae1 it is enough for us that they are sold by perfumers4 ,,rose ,,lip ,,salve4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,spermaceti and wax1 each1 #b oz4 ,alkanet root1 #b oz4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/d drachm4 ,place the wax1 sperm1 and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath2 after the materials are melted1 they must digest on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours2 finally1 strain through fine muslin1 then add the perfume just before it cools4 ,,white ,,lip ,,salve4 ,almond oil1 #a_/d lb4 ,wax and ,spermaceti1 each1 #a oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #a_/b drachm4 geranium1 #a_/d ,after lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold1 a red-hot iron must be held over them for a minute or so1 in order that the heat radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it an even face4 ,,common ,,lip ,,salve ,is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet1 colored with alkanet root1 and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve4 ,,section ,,xii4 ,,pomades ,,and ,,oils4 ,the name of pomatum is derived from pomum1 an apple1 because it was originally made by macerating over-ripe apples in grease4 ,if an apple be stuck all over with spice1 such as cloves1 then exposed to the air for a few days1 and afterwards macerated in purified melted lard1 or any other fatty matter1 the grease will become perfumed4 ,repeating the operation with the same grease several times1 produces real pomatum4 ,according to a recipe published more than a century ago the form given is3--,kid's grease1 an orange sliced1 pippins1 a glass of rose-water1 and half a glass of white wine1 boiled and strained1 and at last sprinkled with oil of sweet almonds4 ,the author1 ,dr4 ,quincy1 observes1 that the apple is of no significance at all in the recipe1 and1 like many authors of the present day1 concludes that the reader is as well acquainted with the subject as the writer1 and therefore considers that the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe are1 likewise1 of no significance4 ,according to ancient writers1 unguent1 pomatum1 ointment1 are synonymous titles for medicated and perfumed greases4 ,among biblical interpreters1 the significant word is mostly rendered ointment2 thus we have in ,prov4 #bg3i1 ,ointment and perfume rejoice the heart2 in ,eccles4 #i3h1 ,let thy head lack no ointment4 ,perfumers1 acting upon their own or ,dr4 ,quincy's advice1 pay no regard to the apples in the preparation of pomatum1 but make it by perfuming lard or suet1 or a mixture of wax1 spermaceti1 and oil1 or some of them or all blended1 to produce a particular result1 according to the name that it bears4 ,the most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum1 c41 is to start off with a perfectly inodorous grease1 whatever that grease may be4 ,inodorous lard is obtained thus3--,take1 say #bh lbs4 of perfectly fresh lard1 place it in a well-glazed vessel1 that can be submitted to the heat of a boiling salt-water bath1 or by steam under a slight pressure2 when the lard is melted1 add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two ounces of table salt2 maintain the heat for some time1 in fact till a scum rises1 consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine compounds1 membrane1 c41 which must be skimmed off2 when the liquid grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold4 ,the lard is now to be washed4 ,this is done in small portions at a time1 and is a work of much labor1 which1 however1 is amply repaid by the result4 ,about a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a little on the incline1 a supply of good water being set to trickle over it2 the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative working a muller over it1 precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in oil4 ,in this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt1 also the last traces of nitrogenous matter4 ,finally1 the grease1 when the whole is washed in this way1 is remelted1 the heat being maintained enough to drive off any adhering water4 ,when cold it is finished4 ,although purifying grease in this way is troublesome1 and takes a good deal of time1 yet unless done so1 it is totally unfit for perfuming with flowers1 because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its mal odeur than the expense of thus deodorizing it4 ,moreover1 if lard be used that smells of the pig1 it is next to impossible to impart to it any delicate odor2 and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos1 the unpurified grease will not keep1 but quickly becomes rancid4 ,under any circumstances1 therefore1 grease that is not perfectly inodorous is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades4 ,in the ,south and flower-growing countries1 where the fine pomades are made by ,,enfleurage1 or by ,,maceration,g 7see pp4 #cg1 #ch71 the purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures is of sufficient importance to become a separate trade4 ,the purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great measure the same as that for lard3 the greater solidity of suets requires a mechanical arrangement for washing them of a more powerful nature than can be applied by hand labor4 ,mr4 ,ewen1 who is undoubtedly the best fat-purifier in ,london1 employs a stone roller rotating upon a circular slab2 motion is given to the roller by an axle which passes through the centre of the slab1 or rather stone bed1 upon which the suet is placed2 being higher in the centre than at the sides1 the stream of water flows away after it has once passed over the suet2 in other respects the treatment is the same as for lard4 ,these greases used by perfumers have a general title of body1 tantamount to the ,french nomenclature of corps2 thus we have pomades of hard corps 7suet71 pomades of soft corps 7lard74 ,for making extraits1 such as extrait de violette1 jasmin1 the pomades of hard corps are to be preferred2 but when scented pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair1 pomades of soft corps are the most useful4 ,the method of perfuming grease by the direct process with flowers having already been described under the respective names of the flowers that impart the odor thereto1 it remains now only to describe those compounds that are made from them1 together with such incidental matter connected with this branch of perfumery as has not been previously mentioned4 ,,acacia ,,pomade1 commonly called ,,cassie ,,pomatum1 is made with a purified body-grease1 by maceration with the little round yellow buds of the ,acacia ,farnesiana4 ,black currant leaves1 and which the ,french term cassie1 have an odor very much resembling cassie 7acacia71 and are used extensively for adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils4 ,the near similarity of name1 their analogous odor 7although the plants have no botanical connection71 together with the word cassia1 a familiar perfume in ,england1 has produced generally confused ideas in this country as to the true origin of the odor now under discussion4 ,cassie1 casse1 cassia1 it will be understood now1 are three distinct substances2 and in order to render the matter more perspicuous in future1 the materials will always be denominated ,,acacia1 if prepared from the ,acacia ,farnesiana2 ,,casse1 when from black currant2 and ,,cassia1 if derived from the bark of the ,cinnamomum ,cassia4 ,,benzoin ,,pomade ,,and ,,oil4 ,benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease4 ,half an ounce of benzoic acid being dissolved in half a pint of hot olive or almond oil1 deposits on cooling beautiful acicular crystals1 similar to the crystals that effloresce from vanilla beans2 a portion of the acid1 however1 remains dissolved in the oil at the ordinary temperature1 and imparts to it the peculiar aroma of benzoin2 upon this idea is based the principle of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct process1 that is1 by macerating powdered gum benzoin in melted suet or lard for a few hours1 at a temperature of about #hj deg4 ,c4 to #ij deg4 ,c4 ,nearly all the gum-resins give up their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies1 when treated in the same way2 this fact becoming generally known1 will probably give rise to the preparation of some new remedial ointments1 such as ,unguentum myrrhae1 ,unguentum assafoetida1 and the like4 ,,tonquin ,,pomade1 and ,,tonquin ,,oil1 are prepared by macerating the ground ,tonquin beans in either melted fat or warm oil1 from twelve to twenty-eight hours1 in the proportion of ,tonquin beans1 #a_/b lb4 ,fat or oil1 #d lbs4 ,strain through fine muslin2 when cold1 the grease will have a fine odor of the beans4 ,,vanilla ,,oil ,,and ,,pomade4 ,vanilla pods1 #a_/d lb4 ,fat or oil1 #d lbs4 ,macerate at a temperature of #be deg4 ,c4 for three or four days2 finally strain4 ,these pomatums and oils1 together with the ,french pomades and huiles already described1 constitute the foundation of the preparations of all the best hair greases sold by perfumers4 ,inferior scented pomatums and oils are prepared by perfuming lard1 suet1 wax1 oil1 c41 with various ottos2 the results1 however1 in many instances more expensive than the foregoing1 are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease1 however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers1 is far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos4 ,the undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity1 mainly because their perfume is lasting and flowery4 ,,pomade ,,called ,,bear',s ,,grease4 ,the most popular and original bears' grease is made thus3-- ,huile de rose1 fleur d'orange1 acacia1 of each1 #a_/b lb4 tubereuse and jasmin1 ,almond oil1 #aj lbs4 ,lard1 #ab lbs4 ,acacia pomade1 #b lbs4 ,otto of bergamot1 #d oz4 cloves1 #b oz4 ,melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath1 then add the ottos4 ,bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to set in the pots at a summer heat4 ,in very warm weather1 or if required for exportation to the ,east or ,west ,indies1 it is necessary to use in part ,french pomatums instead of oils1 or more lard and less almond oil4 ,,circassian ,,cream4 ,purified lard1 #a lb4 ,benzoin suet1 #a lb4 ,french rose pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 colored with alkanet1 #b lbs4 ,otto of rose1 #a_/d oz4 ,,balsam ,,of ,,flowers4 ,french rose pomatum1 #ab oz4 violet pomatum1 #ab oz4 ,almond oil1 #b lbs4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a_/d oz4 ,,crystallized ,,oil4 7,first quality74 ,huile de rose1 #a lb4 tubereuse1 #a lb4 fleur d'orange1 #a_/b lb4 ,spermaceti1 #h oz4 ,,crystallized ,,oil4 7,second quality47 ,almond1 #b-a_/b lbs4 ,spermaceti1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of lemon1 #c oz4 ,melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath1 then add the oils2 continue the heat until all flocks disappear2 let the jars into which it is poured be warm2 cool as slowly as possible1 to insure good crystals2 if cooled rapidly1 the mass congeals without the appearance of crystals4 ,this preparation has a very nice appearance1 and so far sells well2 but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head scurfy2 indeed1 the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in flakes after it has been used a week or two4 ,,castor ,,oil ,,pomatum4 ,tubereuse pomatum1 #a lb4 ,castor oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 ,,balsam ,,of ,,neroli4 ,french rose pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 jasmine pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,almond oil1 #c_/d lb4 ,otto of neroli1 #a drachm4 ,,marrow ,,cream4 ,purified lard1 #a lb4 ,almond oil1 #a lb4 ,palm oil1 #a oz4 ,otto of cloves1 #a_/b drachm4 bergamot1 #a_/b oz4 lemon1 #a-a_/b oz4 ,,marrow ,,pomatum4 ,purified lard1 #d lbs4 suet1 #b lbs4 ,otto of lemon1 #a oz4 bergamot1 #a_/b oz4 cloves1 #c drachms4 ,melt the greases1 then beat them up with a whisk or flat wooden spatula for half an hour or more2 as the grease cools1 minute vesicles of air are inclosed by the pomatum1 which not only increase the bulk of the mixtures1 but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation1 rendering the pomatum light and spongy2 in this state it is obvious that it fills out more profitably than otherwise4 ,,common ,,violet ,,pomatum4 ,purified lard1 #a lb4 ,washed acacia pomatum1 #f oz4 rose pomatum1 #d oz4 ,manipulate as for marrow pomatum4 ,in all the cheap preparations for the hair1 the manufacturing perfumers used the washed ,french pomatums and the washed ,french oils for making their greases4 ,washed pomatums and washed oils are those greases that originally have been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage and by maceration with the flowers2 which pomades and huiles have been subject to digestion in alcohol for the manufacture of essences for the handkerchief4 ,after the spirit has been on the pomatums1 c41 it is poured off2 the residue is then called washed pomatum1 and still retain an odor strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases4 ,for pomatums of other odors it is only necessary to substitute rose1 jasmine1 tubereuse1 and others1 in place of the acacia pomatum in the above formulae4 ,,pomade ,,double1 ,,millefleurs4 ,rose1 jasmine1 fleur d'orange1 violet1 tubereuse1 c41 are all made in winter1 with two-thirds best ,french pomatum1 one-third best ,french oils2 in summer1 equal parts4 ,,pomade ,a ,,la ,,heliotrope4 ,french rose pomade1 #a lb4 ,vanilla oil1 #a_/b lb4 ,huile de jasmine1 #d oz4 tubereuse1 #b oz4 fleur d'orange1 #b oz4 ,otto of almonds1 #f drops4 cloves1 #c drops4 ,,huile ,,antique4 7,a la ,heliotrope47 ,same as the above1 substituting rose oil for the pomade4 ,,philocome4 ,the name of this preparation1 which is a compound of ,greek and ,latin1 signifying a friend to the hair1 was first introduced by the ,parisian perfumers2 and a very good name it is1 for ,philocome is undoubtedly one of the best unguents for the hair that is made4 ,,philocome4 7,first quality47 ,white wax1 #aj oz4 ,fresh rose-oil1 #a lb4 acacia oil1 #a_/b lb4 jasmine oil1 #a_/b lb4 fleur d'orange oil1 #a lb4 tubereuse oil1 #a lb4 ,melt the wax in the huiles by a water-bath1 at the lowest possible temperature4 ,stir the mixture as it cools2 do not pour out the ,philocome until it is nearly cool enough to set2 let the jars1 bottles1 or pots into which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed1 or at least of the same temperature as the ,philocome1 otherwise the bottles chill the material as it is poured in1 and make it appear of an uneven texture4 ,,philocome4 7,second quality47 ,white wax1 #e oz4 ,almond oil1 #b lbs4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 lemon1 #a_/b oz4 lavender1 #b drachms4 cloves1 #a drachm4 ,,fluid ,,philocome4 ,take #a ounce of wax to #a pound of oil4 ,,pommade ,,hongroise4 7,for the ,moustache47 ,lead plaster1 #a lb4 ,acacia huile1 #b oz4 ,otto of roses1 #b drachms4 cloves1 #a drachm4 almonds1 #a drachm4 ,color to the tint required with ground amber and sienna in oil2 mix the ingredients by first melting the plaster in a vessel in boiling water4 ,lead plaster is made with oxide of lead boiled with olive oil3 it is best to procure it ready made from the wholesale druggists4 ,,hard ,,or ,,stick ,,pomatums4 ,purified suet1 #a lb4 ,white wax1 #a lb4 ,jasmine pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,tubereuse pomatum1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of rose1 #a drachm4 ,,another ,,form1--cheaper4 ,suet1 #a lb4 ,wax1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of bergamot1 #a oz4 cassia1 #a drachm4 ,the above recipes produce ,,white ,,batons4 ,,brown and ,,black ,,batons are also in demand4 ,they are made in the same way as the above1 but colored with lamp-black or umber ground in oil4 ,such colors are best purchased ready ground at an artist's colorman's4 ,,black ,,and ,,brown ,,cosmetique4 ,such as is sold by ,,rimmel1 is prepared with a nicely-scented soap strongly colored with lamp-black or with umber4 ,the soap is melted1 and the coloring added while the soap is soft2 when cold it is cut up in oblong pieces4 ,it is used as a temporary dye for the moustache1 applied with a small brush and water4 ,,section ,,xiii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,depilatory4 ,by way of personal adornment1 few practices are of more ancient origin than that of painting the face1 dyeing the hair1 and blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes4 ,it is a practice universal among the women of the higher and middle classes in ,egypt1 and very common among those of the lower orders1 to blacken the edge of the eyelids1 both above and below the eye1 with a black powder1 which they term kohhl4 ,the kohhl is applied with a small probe of wood1 ivory1 or silver1 tapering towards the end1 but blunt4 ,this is moistened sometimes with rose-water1 then dipped in the powder1 and drawn along the edges of the eyelids4 ,it is thought to give a very soft expression to the eye1 the size of which1 in appearance1 it enlarges2 to which circumstances probably ,jeremiah refers when he writes1 ,though thou rentest thy face 7or thine eyes7 with painting1 in vain shalt thou make thyself fair4--,jer4 #d3cj4 ,see also ,,lane',s ,modern ,egyptians1 vol4 i1 p4 #da1 et seq4 ,a singular custom is observable both among ,moorish and ,arab females--that of ornamenting the face between the eyes with clusters of bluish spots or other small devices1 and which1 being stained1 become permanent4 ,the chin is also spotted in a similar manner1 and a narrow blue line extends from the point of it1 and is continued down the throat4 ,the eyelashes1 eyebrows1 and also the tips and extremities of the eyelids1 are colored black4 ,the soles1 and sometimes other parts of the feet1 as high as the ankles1 the palms of the hands1 and the nails1 are dyed with a yellowish-red1 with the leaves of a plant called ,henna 7,lawsonia inermis71 the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle1 and is dried for the purposes above mentioned4 ,the back of the hand is also often colored and ornamented in this way with different devices4 ,on holidays they paint their cheeks of a red brick color1 a narrow red line being also drawn down the temples4 ,in ,greece1 for coloring the lashes and sockets of the eye they throw incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire1 intercept the smoke which ascends with a plate1 and collect the soot4 ,this ,i saw applied4 ,a girl1 sitting cross-legged as usual on a sofa1 and closing one of her eyes1 took the two lashes between the forefinger and thumb of her left hand1 pulled them forward1 and then1 thrusting in at the external corner a sort of bodkin or probe which had been immersed in the soot1 and withdrawing it1 the particles previously adhering to the probe remained within the eyelashes4--,,chandler',s ,travels in ,greece4 ,dr4 ,shaw states that among other curiosities that were taken out of the tombs at ,sahara relating to ,egyptian women1 he saw a joint of the common reeds1 which contained one of these bodkins and an ounce or more of this powder4 ,in ,england the same practice is adopted by many persons that have gray hair2 but instead of using the black material in the form of a powder1 it is employed as a crayon1 the color being mixed with a greasy body1 such as the brown and black stick pomatums1 described in the previous article4 ,,turkish ,,hair ,,dye4 ,in ,constantinople there are some persons1 particularly ,armenians1 who devote themselves to the preparation of cosmetics1 and obtain large sums of money from those desirous of learning this art4 ,amongst these cosmetics is a black dye for the hair1 which1 according to ,landerer1 is prepared in the following manner3-- ,finely pulverized galls are kneaded with a little oil to a paste1 which is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapors cease to evolve1 upon which the residue is triturated with water into a paste1 and heated again to dryness4 ,at the same time a metallic mixture1 which is brought from ,egypt to the commercial marts of the ,east1 and which is termed in ,turkish ,rastiko-petra1 or ,rastik-,yuzi1 is employed for this purpose4 ,this metal1 which looks like dross1 is by some ,armenians intentionally fused1 and consists of iron and copper4 ,it obtains its name from its use for the coloration of the hair1 and particularly the eyebrows--for rastik means eyebrows1 and yuzi stone4 ,the fine powder of this metal is as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall-mass into a paste1 which is preserved in a damp place1 by which it acquires the blackening property4 ,in some cases this mass is mixed with1 the powder of odorous substances which are used in the seraglio as perfumes1 and called harsi1 that is1 pleasant odor2 and of these the principal ingredient is ambergris4 ,to blacken the hair a little of this dye is triturated in the hand or between the fingers1 with which the hair or beard is well rubbed4 ,after a few days the hair becomes very beautifully black1 and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as are met with in the ,east among the ,turks who use this black dye4 ,another and important advantage in the use of this dye consists therein1 that the hair remains soft1 pliant1 and for a long time black1 when it has been once dyed with this substance4 ,that the coloring properties of this dye are to be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid1 which can be found by treating the mass with water1 may be with certainty assumed4 ,,litharge ,,hair ,,dye4 ,powdered litharge1 #b lbs4 ,quicklime1 #a_/b lb4 ,calcined magnesia1 #a_/b lb4 ,slake the lime1 using as little water as possible to make it disintegrate1 then mix the whole by a sieve4 ,,another ,,way4 ,slaked lime1 #c lbs4 ,white lead in powder1 #b lbs4 ,litharge1 #a lb4 ,mix by sifting1 bottle1 and well cork4 ,directions to be sold with the above4--,mix the powder with enough water to form a thick creamy fluid2 with the aid of a small brush2 completely cover the hair to be dyed with this mixture2 to dye a light brown1 allow it to remain on the hair four hours2 dark brown1 eight hours2 black1 twelve hours4 ,as the dye does not act unless it is moist1 it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk1 india-rubber1 or other waterproof cap4 ,after the hair is dyed1 the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the head with plain water2 when dry1 the hair must be oiled4 ,,simple ,,silver ,,dye4 7,otherwise ,vegetable ,dye47 ,nitrate of silver1 #a oz4 ,rose-water1 #a pint4 ,before using this dye it is necessary to free the hair from grease by washing it with soda or pearlash and water4 ,the hair must be quite dry prior to applying the dye1 which is best laid on with an old tooth-brush4 ,this dye does not strike for several hours4 ,it needs scarcely be observed that its effects are more rapidly produced by exposing the hair to sunshine and air4 ,,hair ,,dye1 ,,with ,,mordant4 7,brown47 ,nitrate of silver1 #a oz41 blue bottles4 ,rose-water1 #i oz4 ,the mordant4--,sulphuret of potassium1 #a oz41 white bottles4 ,water1 #h oz4 ,,hair ,,dye1 ,,with ,,mordant4 7,black47 ,nitrate of silver1 #a oz41 blue bottles4 ,water1 #f oz4 ,the mordant4--,sulphuret of potassium1 #a oz41 white bottles4 ,water1 #f oz4 ,the mordant is to be applied to the hair first2 when dry1 the silver solution4 ,great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made1 or at least1 well preserved in closed bottles1 otherwise1 instead of the mordant acting to make to make the hair black1 it will tend to impart a yellow hue4 ,when the mordant is good1 it has a very disagreeable odor1 and although this is the quickest and best dye1 its unpleasant smell has given rise to the ,,inodorous ,,dye4 ,blue bottles4--,dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the above1 then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver1 continue to add ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes bright from the oxide of silver being redissolved4 ,white bottles4--,pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three ounces of powdered gall-nuts2 when cold1 strain and bottle4 ,this forms the mordant1 and is used in the same way as the first-named dye1 like the sulphuret mordant4 ,it is not so good a dye as the previous one4 ,,french ,,brown ,,dye4 ,blue ,bottles4--,saturated solution of sulphate of copper2 to this add ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it 7as with the silver in the above71 producing the azure liquid4 ,white ,bottles4--,mordant4--,saturated solution of prussiate of potass4 ,artificial hair1 for the manufacture of perukes1 is dyed in the same manner as wool4 ,there are in the market several other hair dyes1 but all of them are but modifications of the above1 possessing no marked advantage4 ,,lead ,,dye4 ,liquid hair dye1 not to blacken the skin1 may be thus prepared3--,dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassae as much freshly-precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up1 and dilute the resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled water4 ,care must be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with it4 ,,quick ,,depilatory ,,or ,,rusma4 7,for removing hair47 ,as the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper lip1 upon the arms1 and on the back of the neck1 to be detrimental to beauty1 those who are troubled with such physical indications of good health and vital stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory for removing it4 ,this or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from the ,east1 rusma having been in use in the harems of ,asia for many ages4 ,best lime slaked1 #c lb4 ,orpiment1 in powder1 #a_/b lbs4 ,mix the material by means of a drum sieve2 preserve the same for sale in well-corked or stoppered bottles4 ,directions to be sold with the above4 ,mix the depilatory powder with enough water to render it of a creamy consistency2 lay it upon the hair for about five minutes1 or until its caustic action upon the skin renders it necessary to be removed2 a similar process to shaving is then to be gone through1 but instead of using a razor1 operate with an ivory or bone paper-knife2 then wash the part with plenty of water1 and apply a little cold cream4 ,the precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be depilated cannot be given1 because there is a physical difference in the nature of hair4 ,raven tresses require more time than flaxen locks2 the sensitiveness of the skin has also to be considered4 ,a small feather is a very good test for its action4 ,a few readers will1 perhaps1 be disappointed in finding that ,i have only given one formula for depilatory4 ,the receipts might easily have been increased in number1 but not in quality4 ,the use of arsenical compounds is objectionable1 but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of the compounds4 ,a few compilers of ,receipt ,books1 ,supplements to ,pharmacopoeias1 and others1 add to the lime charcoal powder1 carbonate of potass1 starch1 c42 but what action have these materials--chemically--upon hair8 ,the simplest depilatory is moistened quicklime1 but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above2 it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers1 with whom time is no object4 ,,section ,,xiv4 ,,absorbent ,,powders4 ,a lady's toilet-table is incomplete without a box of some absorbent powder2 indeed1 from our earliest infancy1 powder is used for drying the skin with the greatest benefit2 no wonder that its use is continued in advanced years1 if1 by slight modifications in its composition1 it can be employed not only as an absorbent1 but as a means of personal adornment4 ,we are quite within limits in stating that many ton-weights of such powders are used in this country annually4 ,they are principally composed of various starches1 prepared from wheat1 potatoes1 and various nuts1 mixed more or less with powdered talc--of ,hauey1 steatite 7soap-stone71 ,french chalk1 oxide of bismuth1 and oxide of zinc1 c4 ,the most popular is what is termed ,,violet ,,powder4 ,wheat starch1 #ab lbs4 ,orris-root powder1 #b lbs4 ,otto of lemon1 #a_/b oz4 bergamot1 #c_/d oz4 cloves1 #b drachms4 ,,rose ,,face ,,powder4 ,wheat starch1 #g lbs4 ,rose ,pink1 #a_/b drachm4 ,otto of rose1 #b drachms4 santal1 #b ,,plain ,,or ,,unscented ,,hair ,,powder ,is pure wheat starch4 ,,face ,,powder4 ,starch1 #a lb4 ,oxide of ,bismuth1 #d oz4 ,,perle ,,powder4 ,french chalk1 #a lb4 ,oxide of bismuth1 #a oz4 ,oxide of zinc1 #a oz4 ,,blanc ,,de ,,perle ,is pure oxide of bismuth in powder4 ,,french ,,blanc ,is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve4 ,this is the best face powder made1 particularly as it does not discolor from emanation of the skin or impure atmosphere4 ,,liquid ,,blanc 7,,for ,,theatrical ,,use74 ,the use of a white paint by actresses and dancers1 is absolutely necessary2 great exertion produces a florid complexion1 which is incompatible with certain scenic effects1 and requires a cosmetic to subdue it4 ,madame ,v----1 during her stage career1 has probably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth1 prepared thus3-- ,rose or orange-flower water1 #a pint4 ,oxide of bismuth1 #d oz4 ,mixed by long trituration4 ,,calcined ,,talc ,is also extensively used as a toilet powder1 and is sold under various names2 it is not so unctuous as the ordinary kind4 ,,rouge ,,and ,,red ,,paints4 ,these preparations are in demand1 not only for theatrical use1 but by private individuals4 ,various shades of color are made1 to suit the complexions of the blonde and brunette4 ,one of the best kind is that termed ,,bloom ,,of ,,roses4 ,strong liquid ammonia1 #a_/b oz4 ,finest carmine1 #a_/d oz4 ,rose-water1 #a pint4 ,esprit de rose 7triple71 #a_/b oz4 ,place the carmine into a pint bottle1 and pour on it the ammonia2 allow them to remain together1 with occasional agitation1 for two days2 then add the rose-water and esprit1 and well mix4 ,place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week2 any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside2 the supernatant ,bloom of ,roses is then to be bottled for sale4 ,if the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate2 nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated1 its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration4 ,carmine cannot be manufactured profitably on a small scale for commercial purposes2 four or five manufacturers supply the whole of ,europe6 ,m4 ,titard1 ,rue ,grenier ,st4 ,lazare1 ,paris1 produces1 without doubt1 the finest article2 singular enough1 however1 the principal operative in the establishment is an old ,englishman4 ,the preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery1 because1 on the one hand1 its consumption being very limited1 few persons are engaged in its manufacture1 and1 upon the other1 the raw material being costly1 extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made4--,,dr4 ,,ure4 ,in the ,encyclopedie ,roret will be found no less than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine2 the number of formulae will convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld4 ,analysis has taught us its exact composition2 but a certain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success4 ,most of the recipes given by ,dr4 ,ure1 and others1 are from this source2 but as they possess no practical value we refrain from reprinting them4 ,,toilet ,,rouges4 ,are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder1 in different proportions1 say1 one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc1 or one of carmine to three of talc1 and so on4 ,these rouges are sold in powder1 and also in cake or china pots2 for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth4 ,m4 ,titard prepares a great variety of rouges4 ,in some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually2 it then assumes a beautiful green tint4 ,this curious optical effect is also observed in pink saucers4 ,what is known as ,chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way1 and has been imported into this country for many years4 ,when the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton wool1 and applied to the lips or cheeks1 the color assumes a beautiful rosy hue4 ,common sorts of rouge1 called theatre rouge1 are made from the ,brazil-wood lake2 another kind is derived from the safflower 7,carthamus tinctorius72 from this plant also is made ,,pink ,,saucers4 ,the safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed2 the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda2 the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution4 ,cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the same purpose1 the former being sold as ,spanish wool1 the latter as ,crepon rouge4 ,,section ,,xv4 ,,tooth ,,powders ,,and ,,mouth ,,washes4 ,,tooth powders1 regarded as a means merely of cleansing the teeth1 are most commonly placed among cosmetics2 but this should not be1 as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of the dental machinery1 and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the act of mastication4 ,in this manner1 they may be considered as most useful1 although it is true1 subordinate medicinal agents4 ,by a careful and prudent use of them1 some of the most frequent causes of early loss of the teeth may be prevented2 these are1 the deposition of tartar1 the swelling of the gums1 and an undue acidity of the saliva4 ,the effect resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons1 and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets2 and the action of the saliva1 if unduly acid1 is known to be at least injurious1 if not destructive4 ,now1 the daily employment of a tooth powder sufficiently hard1 so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon the teeth1 without1 at the same time1 injuring the enamel of the teeth1 will1 in most cases1 almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth2 and a flaccid1 spongy1 relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by adding to such a tooth powder1 some tonic and astringent ingredient4 ,a tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark1 will accomplish these results in most cases1 and therefore dentists generally recommend such4 ,still1 there are objections to the use of charcoal2 it is too hard and resisting1 its color is objectionable1 and it is perfectly insoluble by the saliva1 it is apt to become lodged between the teeth1 and there to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles as may be fixed in this position4 ,cinchona bark1 too1 is often stringy1 and has a bitter1 disagreeable taste4 ,m4 ,mialhe highly recommends the following formula3-- ,,mialhe',s ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,sugar of milk1 one thousand parts2 lake1 ten parts2 pure tannin1 fifteen parts2 oil of mint1 oil of aniseed1 and oil of orange flowers1 so much as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition4 ,his directions for the preparation of this tooth powder1 are1 to rub well the lake with the tannin1 and gradually add the sugar of milk1 previously powdered and sifted2 and lastly1 the essential oils are to be carefully mixed with the powdered substances4 ,experience has convinced him of the efficacy of this tooth powder1 the habitual employment of which1 will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy state4 ,for those who are troubled with excessive relaxation and sponginess of the gums1 he recommends the following astringent preparation3-- ,,mialhe',s ,,dentifrice4 ,alcohol1 one thousand parts2 genuine kino1 one hundred parts2 rhatany root1 one hundred parts2 tincture of balsam of tolu1 two parts2 tincture of gum benzoin1 two parts2 essential oil of canella1 two parts2 essential oil of mint1 two parts2 essential oil of aniseed1 one part4 ,the kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for seven or eight days2 and after filtration1 the other articles are to be added4 ,a teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in three or four spoonfuls of water1 should be used to rinse the mouth1 after the use of the tooth powder4 ,,camphorated ,,chalk4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,powdered orris-root1 #a_/b lb4 ,powdered camphor1 #a_/d lb4 ,reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a little spirit1 then sift the whole well together4 ,on account of the volatility of camphor1 the powder should always be sold in bottles1 or at least in boxes lined with tinfoil4 ,,quinine ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,starch ,powder1 #a_/b lb4 ,orris powder1 #a_/b lb4 ,sulphate of quinine1 #a drachm4 ,after sifting1 it is ready for sale4 ,,prepared ,,charcoal4 ,fresh-made charcoal in fine powder1 #g lbs4 ,prepared chalk1 #a lb4 ,orris-root1 #a lb4 ,catechu1 #a_/b lb4 ,cassia bark1 #a_/b lb4 ,myrrh1 #a_/d lb4 ,sift4 ,,peruvian ,,bark ,,powder4 ,peruvian bark in powder1 #a_/b lb4 ,bole ,ammoniac1 #a lb4 ,orris powder1 #a lb4 ,cassia bark1 #a_/b lb4 ,powdered myrrh1 #a_/b lb4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of cloves1 #c_/d oz4 ,,homoeopathic ,,chalk4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,powder orris1 #a oz4 starch1 #a oz4 ,,cuttle ,,fish ,,powder4 ,powdered cuttle-fish1 #a_/b lb4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,powder orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of lemons1 #a oz4 neroli1 #a_/b drachm4 ,,borax ,,and ,,myrrh ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,borax powder1 #a_/b lb4 ,myrrh powder1 #a_/d lb4 ,orris1 #a_/d lb4 ,,farina ,,piesse',s ,,powder4 ,precipitated chalk1 #b lbs4 ,orris-root1 #b lbs4 ,rose pink1 #a drachm4 ,very fine powdered sugar1 #a_/b lb4 ,otto of neroli1 #a_/b drachm4 lemons1 #a_/d oz4 bergamot1 #a_/d oz4 orange-peel1 #a_/d oz4 rosemary1 #a drachm4 ,,rose ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,precipitated chalk1 #a lb4 ,orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose pink1 #b drachms4 ,otto of rose1 #a drachm4 santal1 #a_/d drachm4 ,,opiate ,,tooth ,,paste4 ,honey1 #a_/b lb4 ,chalk1 #a_/b lb4 ,orris1 #a_/b lb4 ,rose ,pink1 #b drachms4 ,otto of cloves1 nutmeg1 each1 #a_/b drachm4 rose1 ,simple syrup1 enough to form a paste4 ,,mouth ,,washes4 ,,violet ,,mouth ,,wash4 ,tincture of orris1 #a_/b pint4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b pint4 ,spirit1 #a_/b pint4 ,otto of almonds1 #e drops4 ,,eau ,,botot4 ,tincture of cedar wood1 #a pint4 myrrh1 #a_/d pint4 rhatany1 #a_/d pint4 ,otto of peppermint1 #e drops4 ,all these tinctures should be made with grape spirit1 or at least with pale unsweetened brandy4 ,,botanic ,,styptic4 ,rectified spirit1 #a quart4 ,rhatany root1 ,gum myrrh1 of each1 #b oz4 ,whole cloves1 ,macerate for fourteen days1 and strain4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,myrrh ,,and ,,borax4 ,spirits of wine1 #a quart4 ,borax1 ,honey1 of each1 #a oz4 ,gum myrrh1 #a oz4 ,red sanders wood1 #a oz4 ,rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar1 then gradually add the spirit1 which should not be stronger than 4#ibj1 i4e4 proof spirit1 the myrrh1 and sanders wood1 and macerate for fourteen days4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,myrrh ,,with ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a quart4 ,gum myrrh1 #a oz4 ,macerate for fourteen days1 and filter4 ,,camphorated ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 ,eau de ,cologne1 #a quart4 ,camphor1 #e oz4 ,,section ,,xvi4 ,,hair ,,washes4 ,,rosemary ,,water4 ,rosemary free from stalk1 #aj lbs4 ,water1 #ab gallons4 ,draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery manufacture4 ,,rosemary ,,hair ,,wash4 ,rosemary water1 #a gallon4 ,rectified spirit1 #a_/b pint4 ,pearlash1 #a oz4 ,tinted with brown coloring4 ,,athenian ,,water4 ,rose-water1 #a gallon4 ,alcohol1 #a pint4 ,sassafras wood1 #a_/d lb4 ,pearlash1 #a oz4 ,boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel2 then1 when cold1 add the pearlash and spirit4 ,,vegetable ,,or ,,botanic ,,extract4 ,rose-water1 ,rectified spirits1 of each1 #b quarts4 ,extrait de fleur d'orange1 jasmin1 acacia1 of each1 #a_/d pint4 rose1 tubereuse1 ,extract of vanilla1 #a_/b pint4 ,this is a very beautifully-scented hair wash4 ,it retails at a price commensurate with its cost4 ,,astringent ,,extract ,,of ,,roses ,,and ,,rosemary4 ,rosemary water1 #b quarts4 ,esprit de rose1 #a_/b pint4 ,rectified spirit1 #a-a_/b pint4 ,extract of vanilla1 #a quart4 ,magnesia to clear it1 #b oz4 ,filter through paper4 ,,saponaceous ,,wash4 ,rectified spirit1 #a pint4 ,rose-water1 #a gallon4 ,extract of rondeletia1 #a_/b pint4 ,transparent soap1 #a_/b oz4 ,hay saffron1 #a_/b drachm4 ,shave up the soap very fine2 boil it and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water2 when dissolved1 add the remainder of the water1 then the spirit1 finally the rondeletia1 which is used by way of perfume4 ,after standing for two or three days1 it is fit for bottling4 ,by transmitted light it is transparent1 but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singular wavy appearance when shaken4 ,a similar preparation is called ,egg ,julep4 ,,bandolines4 ,various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any particular form4 ,some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum containing wax1 made up into rolls1 called thence ,baton ,fixeteur4 ,the little feathers of hair1 with which some ladies are troubled1 are by the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth4 ,for their formula1 see p4 #bbd1 #bbe4 ,the liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature1 being made either with ,iceland moss1 or linseed and water variously perfumed1 also by boiling quince-seed with water4 ,perfumers1 however1 chiefly make bandoline from gum tragacanth1 which exudes from a shrub of that name which grows plentifully in ,greece and ,turkey4 ,,rose ,,bandoline4 ,gum tragacanth1 #f oz4 ,rose-water1 #a gallon4 ,otto of roses1 #a_/b oz4 ,steep the gum in the water for a day or so4 ,as it swells and forms a thick gelatinous mass1 it must from time to time be well agitated4 ,after about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a coarse clean linen cloth1 and again left to stand for a few days1 and passed through a linen cloth a second time1 to insure uniformity of consistency2 when this is the case1 the otto of rose is to be thoroughly incorporated4 ,the cheap bandoline is made without the otto2 for colored bandoline1 it is to be tinted with ammoniacal solution of carmine1 i4e4 ,bloom of ,roses4 ,see p4 #bcf4 ,,almond ,,bandoline ,is made precisely as the above1 scenting with a quarter of an ounce of otto of almonds in place of the roses4 ,nor the sweet smell ,of different flowers in odor and in hue ,can make me any longer story tell4 ,shakspeare4 ,illustration ,,appendix4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,glycerine4 ,glycerine is generally made on the large scale1 on the one hand1 by directly saponifying oil with the oxide of lead1 or1 on the other1 from the waste liquor of soap manufacturers4 ,to obtain glycerine by means of the first of these methods is the reverse of simple1 and at the same time somewhat expensive2 and by means of the second process1 the difficulty of entirely separating the saline matters of the waste liquor renders it next to impossible to procure a perfectly pure result4 ,to meet both these difficulties1 and to meet the steadily increasing demand for glycerine1 ,dr4 ,campbell ,morfit recommends the following process1 which1 he asserts1 he has found1 by experience1 to combine the desirable advantages of economy as regards time1 trouble1 and expense4 ,one hundred pounds of oil1 tallow1 lard1 or stearin are to be placed in a clean iron-bound barrel1 and melted by the direct application of a current of steam4 ,whilst still fluid and warm1 add to it fifteen pounds of lime1 previously slaked1 and made into a milky mixture with two and a half gallons of water2 then cover the vessel1 and continue the steaming for several hours1 or until the saponification shall be completed4 ,this may be known when a sample of the soap when cold gives a smooth and bright surface on being scraped with the finger-nail1 and at the same time1 breaks with a crackling noise4 ,by this process the fat or oil is decomposed1 its acids uniting with the lime to form insoluble lime-soap1 while the eliminated glycerine remains in solution in the water along with the excess of the lime4 ,after it has been sufficiently boiled1 it is allowed to cool and to settle1 and it is then to be strained4 ,the strained liquid contains only the glycerine and excess of lime1 and requires to be carefully concentrated by heated steam4 ,during evaporation1 a portion of the lime is deposited1 on account of its lesser solubility in hot than in cold water4 ,the residue is removed by treating the evaporated liquid with a current of carbonic acid gas1 boiling by heated steam to convert a soluble bicarbonate of lime that may have been formed into insoluble neutral carbonate1 decanting or straining off the clear supernatant liquid from the precipitated carbonate of lime1 and evaporating still further1 as before1 if necessary1 so as to drive off any excess of water4 ,as nothing fixed or injurious is employed in this process1 glycerine1 prepared in this manner1 may be depended upon for its almost absolute purity4 ,m4 ,jahn's process is as follows3-- ,take of finely-powdered litharge five pounds1 and olive oil nine pounds4 ,boil them together over a gentle fire1 constantly stirring1 with the addition occasionally of a small quantity of warm water1 until the compound has the consistence of plaster4 ,jahn boils this plaster for half an hour with an equal weight of water1 keeping it at the same time constantly stirred4 ,when cold1 he pours off the supernatant fluid1 and repeats the boiling three times at least with a fresh portion of water4 ,the sweet fluids which result are mixed1 and evaporated to six pounds1 and sulphuretted hydrogen conducted through them as long as sulphuret of lead is precipitated4 ,the liquid filtered from the sulphuret of lead is to be reduced to a thin syrupy consistence by evaporation4 ,to remove the brown coloring matter1 it must be treated with purified animal charcoal4 ,however1 this agent does not prevent the glycerine becoming slightly colored upon further evaporation4 ,it possesses also still a slight smell and taste of lead plaster1 which may be removed by diluting it with water1 and by digestion with animal charcoal1 and some fresh burnt-wood charcoal4 ,after filtration1 this liquid must be evaporated until it has acquired a specific gravity of #a4ba1 when it will be found to be free from smell1 and of a pale yellow color4 ,for the preparation of glycerine1 distilled water is necessary1 to prevent it being contaminated with the impurities of common water4 ,jahn obtained1 by this method1 from the above quantity of lead plaster1 upwards of seven ounces of glycerine4--,archives der ,pharmacie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,test ,,for ,,alcohol ,,in ,,essential ,,oils4 ,j4,j4 ,bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash4 ,when to an ethereal oil1 contaminated with alcohol1 dry acetate of potash is added1 this salt dissolves in the alcohol1 and forms a solution from which the volatile oil separates4 ,if the oil be free from alcohol1 this salt remains dry therein4 ,wittstein1 who speaks highly of this test1 has suggested the following method of applying it as the best3--,in a dry test-tube1 about half an inch in diameter1 and five or six inches long1 put no more than eight grains of powdered dry acetate of potash2 then fill the tube two-thirds full with the essential oil to be examined4 ,the contents of the tube must be well stirred with a glass rod1 taking care not to allow the salt to rise above the oil2 afterwards set aside for a short time4 ,if the salt be found at the bottom of the tube dry1 it is evident that the oil contains no spirit4 ,oftentimes1 instead of the dry salt1 beneath the oil is found a clear syrupy fluid1 which is a solution of the salt in the spirit1 with which the oil was mixed4 ,when the oil contains only a little spirit1 a small portion of the solid salt will be found under the syrupy solution4 ,many essential oils frequently contain a trace of water1 which does not materially interfere with this test1 because1 although the acetate of potash becomes moist thereby1 it still retains its pulverent form4 ,a still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a water-bath4 ,all the essential oils which have a higher boiling-point than spirit1 remain in the retort1 whilst the spirit passes into the receiver with only a trace of the oil1 where the alcohol may be recognized by the smell and taste4 ,should1 however1 a doubt exist1 add to the distillate a little acetate of potash and strong sulphuric acid1 and heat the mixture in a test-tube to the boiling-point1 when the characteristic odor of acetic ether will be manifest1 if any alcohol be present4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,detection ,,of ,,poppy ,,and ,,other ,,drying ,,oils ,,in ,,almond ,,and ,,olive ,,oils4 ,it is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air by the first not being convertible into elaidic acid1 consequently it does not become solid4 ,professor ,wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for the formation of elaidin1 which is applicable for the purpose of detecting the adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils4 ,he produces nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with nitric acid4 ,the vapor of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube into water1 upon which the oil to be tested is placed4 ,if the oil of almonds or olives contains only a small quantity of poppy oil when thus treated1 it is entirely converted into crystallized elaidin1 whilst the poppy oil swims on the top in drops4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,coloring ,,matter ,,of ,,volatile ,,oils4 ,,by ,g4,e4 ,,sachsse4 ,it is well known that most ethereal oils are colorless2 however1 there are a great number colored1 some of which are blue1 some green1 and some yellow4 ,up to the present time the question has not been decided1 whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a color1 or whether their color is not due to the presence of some coloring matter which can be removed4 ,it is most probable that their color arises from the presence of a foreign substance1 as the colored ethereal oils can at first1 by careful distillation1 be obtained colorless1 whilst later the colored portion passes over4 ,subsequent appearances lead to the solution of the question1 and are certain evidence that ethereal oils1 when they are colored1 owe their color to peculiar substances which1 by certain conditions1 may be communicated from one oil to another4 ,when a mixture of oils of wormwood1 lemons1 and cloves is subjected to distillation1 the previously green-colored oil of wormwood passes over1 at the commencement1 colorless1 while1 towards the end of the distillation1 after the receiver has been frequently charged1 the oil of cloves distils over in very dense drops of a dark green color4 ,it therefore appears that the green coloring matter of the oil of wormwood has been transferred to the oil of cloves4--,zeitschrift fuer ,pharmacie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,artificial ,,preparation ,,of ,,oil ,,of ,,cinnamon4 ,,by ,a4 ,,strecker4 ,some years since1 ,strecker has shown that styrone1 which is obtained when styracine is treated with potash1 is the alcohol of cinnamic acid4 ,wolff has converted this alcohol by oxidizing agents into cinnamic acid4 ,the author has now proved that under the same conditions by which ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde1 styrone affords the aldehyde of cinnamic acid1 that is1 oil of cinnamon4 ,it is only necessary to moisten platinum black with styrone1 and let it remain in the air some days1 when by means of the bisulphite of potash the aldehyde double compound may be obtained in crystals1 which should be washed in ether4 ,by the addition of diluted sulphuric acid1 the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is afterwards procured pure4 ,these crystals also dissolve in nitric acid1 and then form after a few moments crystals of the nitrate of the hyduret of cinnamyle4 ,the conversion of styrone into the hyduret of cinnamyle by the action of the platinum black is shown by the following equation3 ,c#ah;,h#aj,o#b #b ,o ,c#ah;,h#h,o#b #b ,,ho4--,comptes ,rendus4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,detection ,,of ,,spike ,,oil ,,and ,,turpentine ,,in ,,lavender ,,oil ,,by ,,dr4 ,j4 ,,gastell4 ,there are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce2 one1 which is very dear1 and is obtained from the flowers of the ,lavandula vera2 the other is much cheaper1 and is prepared from the flowers of the ,lavandula spica4 ,the latter is generally termed oil of spike4 ,in the south of ,france1 whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the ,lavandula vera or ,lavandula spica1 it is named oil of lavender4 ,by the distillation of the whole plant or only the stalk and the leaves1 a small quantity of oil is obtained1 which is rich in camphor1 and is there called oil of spike4 ,pure oil of lavender should have a specific gravity from 4#hgf to 4#hhj1 and be completely soluble in five parts of alcohol of a specific gravity of 4#hid4 ,a greater specific gravity shows that it is mixed with oil of spike2 and a less solubility1 that it contains oil of turpentine4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,different ,,orange-,,flower ,,waters ,,found ,,in ,,commerce ,,by ,m4 ,,leguay4 ,there are three sorts of orange-flower waters found in commerce4 ,the first is distilled from the flowers2 the second is made with distilled water and neroli2 and the third is distilled from the leaves1 the stems1 and the young unripe fruit of the orange tree4 ,the first may be easily distinguished by the addition of a few drops of sulphuric acid to some of the water in a tube2 a fine rose color is almost immediately produced4 ,the second also gives the same color when it is freshly prepared2 but after a certain time1 two or three months at the farthest1 this color is no longer produced1 and the aroma disappears completely4 ,the third is not discolored by the addition of the sulphuric acid2 it has scarcely any odor1 and that rather an odor of the lemon plant than of orange-flowers4--,bulletin de la ,societe ,pharmaceutique d',indre et ,loire4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,,formula ,,for ,,concentrated ,,elder-,,flower ,,water4 ,krembs recommends the following process for making a concentrated elder-flower water1 from which he states the ordinary water can be extemporaneously prepared1 of excellent quality1 and of uniform strength3--#b lbs4 of the flowers are to be distilled with water until that which passes into the receiver has lost nearly all perfume4 ,this will generally happen when from #ae to #ah pounds have passed over4 ,to the distillate1 #b lbs4 of alcohol are to be added1 and the mixture distilled until about #e lbs4 are collected4 ,this liquor contains all the odor of the flowers4 ,to make the ordinary water1 #b ounces of the concentrated water are to be added to #aj ounces of distilled water4--,buchner's ,report4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,practical ,,remarks ,,on ,,spirit ,,of ,,wine4 ,,by ,,thomas ,,arnall4 ,the strength of spirit of wine is1 by law1 regulated by proof spirit 7sp4 gr4 4#ibj7 as a standard2 and accordingly as it is either stronger or weaker than the above1 it is called so much per cent4 above or below proof4 ,the term per cent4 is used in this instance in a rather peculiar sense4 ,thus1 spirit of wine at #ef per cent4 overproof1 signifies that #ajj gallons of it are equal to #aef gallons of proof spirit2 while a spirit at #bj per cent4 underproof1 signifies that #ajj gallons are equal to #hj gallons at proof4 ,the rectified spirit of the ,pharmacopoeia is #ef per cent4 overproof1 and may be reduced to proof by strictly adhering to the directions there given1 viz41 to mix five measures with three of water4 ,the result1 however1 will not be eight measures of proof spirit2 in consequence of the contraction which ensues1 there will be a deficiency of about ,symbol3 oz4iv in each gallon4 ,this must be borne in mind in preparing tinctures4 ,during a long series of experiments on the preparation of ethers1 it appeared a desideratum to find a ready method of ascertaining how much spirit of any density would be equal to one chemical equivalent of absolute alcohol4 ,by a modification of a rule employed by the ,excise1 this question may be easily solved4 ,the ,excise rule is as follows3-- ,to reduce from any given strength to any required strength1 add the overproof per centage to #ajj1 or subtract the underproof per centage from #ajj4 ,multiply the result by the quantity of spirit1 and divide the product by the number obtained by adding the required per centage overproof1 or subtracting the required per centage underproof1 to or from #ajj1 as the case may be4 ,the result will give the measure of the spirit at the strength required4 ,thus1 suppose you wished to reduce #aj gallons of spirit1 at #ed overproof1 down to proof1 add #ed to #ajj #aed2 multiply by the quantity1 #aj gallons 7#aed x #aj7 #aedj4 ,the required strength being proof1 of course there is nothing either to add to or take from #ajj2 therefore1 #aedj divided by #ajj #ae4d gallons at proof2 showing that #aj gallons must be made to measure #ae gallons1 #c pints1 #d fl4 oz41 by the addition of water4 ,to ascertain what quantity of spirit of any given strength will contain one equivalent of absolute alcohol4 ,add the overproof per centage of the given spirit to #ajj1 as before2 and with the number thus obtained divide #djfb4ahc4 ,the result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four equivalents 7#df x #d74 ,example4--,how much spirit at #ed per cent4 overproof is equal to #a equivalent of absolute alcohol8 ,here1 #ed #ajj #aed and #djfb4ahc #bf4cggh galls41 or #bf galls4 #c pts4 -------- #aed which1 divided by #d1 gives #f gallons1 #d pints1 #ae oz4 ,suppose the spirit to be #fj overproof1-- #djfb4ahc one-fourth of which is equal then ---------- #be4chh gallons1 to #f gallons1 #b pints1 7#ajj #fj7 #ae-a_/b oz4 ,this rule is founded on the following data4 ,as a gallon of water weighs #aj lbs41 it is obvious that the specific gravity of any liquid multiplied by #aj will give the weight of one gallon4 ,the specific gravity of absolute alcohol is #j4gichaa2 hence1 the weight of one gallon will be #g4ichaa lbs41 and its strength is estimated at #ge4be overproof4 #d equivalents of alcohol #df x #d #ahd1 and #bc4agicf gallons x #g4ichaa lbs4 per gallon1 also #ahd4jjjcjid4 ,hence it appears that #bc4agicf gallons of absolute alcohol are equal to #d equivalents4 ,by adding the overproof per centage 7#ge4be7 to #ajj1 and multiplying by the quantity 7#bc4agicf gallons7 we get the constant number #djfb4ahc4 ,the rule might have been calculated so as to show at once the equivalent1 without dividing by #d2 but it would have required several more places of decimals2 it will give the required quantity to a fraction of a fluid drachm4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,purification ,,of ,,spirits ,,by ,,filtration4 ,,by ,,mr4 ,w4 ,,schaeffer4 ,instead of resorting to repeated distillations for effecting the purification of spirits1 ,mr4 ,schaeffer proposes the use of a filter4 ,in a suitable vessel1 the form of which is not material1 a filtering bed is constructed in the following manner3--,on a false perforated bottom1 covered with woollen or other fabric1 a layer of about six inches of well-washed and very clean river sand is placed2 next about twelve inches of granular charcoal1 preferring that made from birch2 on the charcoal is placed a layer of about one inch of wheat1 boiled to such an extent as to cause it to swell as large as possible1 and so that it will readily crush between the fingers4 ,above this is laid about ten inches of charcoal1 then about one inch of broken oyster shells1 and then about two inches more of charcoal1 over which is placed a layer of woollen or other fabric1 and over it a perforated partition1 on to which the spirit to be filtered is poured2 the filter is kept covered1 and in order that the spirit may flow freely into the compartment of the filter below the filtering materials1 a tube connects such lower compartment with the upper compartment of the filter1 so that the air may pass freely between the lower and upper compartments of the filter4 ,on each1 of the several strata above described1 it is desirable to place a layer of filtering paper4 ,the charcoal suitable for the above purpose is not such as is obtained in the ordinary mode of preparation4 ,it is placed in a retort or oven1 and heated to a red heat until the blue flame has passed off1 and the flame become red4 ,the charcoal is then cooled in water1 in which carbonate of potash has previously been dissolved1 in the proportion of two ounces of carbonate to fifty gallons of water4 ,the charcoal being deprived of the water is then reduced to a granular state1 in which condition it is ready for use4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,essential ,,oil ,,or ,,otto ,,of ,,lemons4 ,,by ,,john ,s4 ,,cobb4 7,read before the ,chemical ,discussion ,society47 ,i have recently made some experiments with oil of lemons1 of which the following is a short account3-- ,being constantly annoyed by the deposit and alteration in my essence of lemons1 ,i have tried various methods of remedying the inconvenience4 ,i first tried redistilling it1 but besides the loss consequent on distilling small quantities1 the flavor is thereby impaired4 ,as the oil became brighter when heated1 ,i anticipated that all its precipitable matter would be thrown down at a low temperature1 and ,i applied a freezing mixture1 keeping the oil at zero for some hours4 ,no such change1 however1 took place4 ,the plan which ,i ultimately decided upon as the best which ,i had arrived at1 was to shake up the oil with a little boiling water1 and to leave the water in the bottle2 a mucilaginous preparation forms on the top of the water1 and acquires a certain tenacity1 so that the oil may be poured off to nearly the last1 without disturbing the deposit4 ,perhaps cold water would answer equally well1 were it carefully agitated with the oil and allowed some time to settle4 ,a consideration of its origin and constitution1 indeed1 strengthens this opinion2 for although lemon otto is obtained both by distillation and expression1 that which is usually found in commerce is prepared by removing the flavedo of lemons with a rasp1 and afterwards expressing it in a hair sack1 allowing the filtrate to stand1 that it may deposit some of its impurities1 decanting and filtering4 ,thus obtained it still contains a certain amount of mucilaginous matter1 which undergoes spontaneous decomposition1 and thus 7acting1 in short1 as a ferment7 accelerates a similar change in the oil itself4 ,if this view of its decomposition be a correct one1 we evidently1 in removing this matter by means of the water1 get rid of a great source of alteration1 and attain the same result as we should by distillation1 without its waste or deterioration in flavor4 ,i am1 however1 aware that some consider the deposit to be modified resin4,h ,some curious experiments of ,saussure have shown that volatile oils absorb oxygen immediately they have been drawn from the plant1 and are partially converted into a resin1 which remains dissolved in the remainder of the essence4 ,he remarked that this property of absorbing oxygen gradually increases1 until a maximum is attained1 and again diminishes after a certain lapse of time4 ,in the oil of lavender this maximum remained only seven days1 during each of which it absorbed seven times its volume of oxygen4 ,in the oil of lemons the maximum was not attained until at the end of a month2 it then lasted twenty-six days2 during each of which it absorbed twice its volume of oxygen4 ,the oil of turpentine did not attain the maximum for five months1 it then remained for one month1 during which time it absorbed daily its own volume of oxygen4 ,it is the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen1 and remaining dissolved in the essence1 which destroys its original flavor4 ,the oil of lemons presents a very great analogy with that of oil of turpentine1 so far as regards its transformations1 and its power of rotating a ray of polarized light4 ,authorities differ as regards this latter property4 ,pereira states that the oil of turpentine obtained by distillation with water1 from ,american turpentine1 has a molecular power of right-handed rotation1 while the ,french oil of turpentine had a left-handed rotation4 ,oil of lemons rotates a ray of light to the right1 but in ,france a distilled oil of lemons1 sold as scouring drops for removing spots of grease1 possesses quite the opposite power of rotation1 and has lost all the original peculiar flavor of the oil4 ,oil of lemons combines with hydrochloric acid to form an artificial camphor1 just in the same manner as does oil of turpentine1 but its atom is only one half that of the oil of turpentine4 ,the artificial camphor of oil of lemons is represented by the formula1 ,c#aj;,h#h;,h,cl2 the artificial camphor of oil of turpentine by ,c#bj;,h#af;,h,cl4 ,according to ,m4 ,biot1 the camphor formed by the oil of lemons does not exercise any action on polarized light1 whilst the oil of lemons itself rotates a ray to the right4 ,the camphor from oil of turpentine1 on the contrary1 does exercise on the polarized ray the same power as the oil possessed while in its isolated state1 of rotating to the left4 ,these molecular properties establish an essential difference between the oils of turpentine and lemons1 and may serve to detect adulteration and fraud4 ,it is also a curious fact1 that from the decomposition of these artificial camphors by lime1 volatile oils may be obtained by distillation1 isomeric with the original oils from which the camphors were formed2 but in neither case has the new product any action on polarized light4 ,in conclusion1 ,i would recommend that this oil1 as well as all other essential oils1 be kept in a cool1 dark place1 where no very great changes of temperature occur4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,benzoic ,,acid1 ,,and ,,tests ,,for ,,its ,,purity4 ,,by ,w4 ,,bastick4 ,dr4 ,mohr's process for obtaining benzoic acid1 which is adopted by the ,prussian ,pharmacopoeia1 unquestionably has the reputation of being the best4 ,according to this process1 coarsely-powdered gum benzoin is to be strewed on the flat bottom of a round iron pot which has a diameter of nine inches1 and a height of about two inches4 ,on the surface of the pot is spread a piece of filtering paper1 which is fastened to its rim by starch paste4 ,a cylinder of very thick paper is attached by means of a string to the top of the iron pot4 ,heat is then applied by placing the pot on a plate covered with sand1 over the mouth of a furnace4 ,it must remain exposed to a gentle fire from four to six hours4 ,mohr usually obtains about an ounce and a half of benzoic acid from twelve ounces of gum benzoin by the first sublimation4 ,as the gum is not exhausted by the first operation1 it may be bruised when cold and again submitted to the action of heat1 when a fresh portion of benzoic acid will sublime from it4 ,this acid thus obtained1 is not perfectly pure and white1 and ,mohr states that it is a question1 in a medicinal and perfumery point of view1 whether it is so valuable when perfectly pure1 as when it contains a small portion of a fragrant volatile oil1 which rises with it from the gum in the process of sublimation4 ,the ,london ,pharmacopoeia directs that it shall be prepared by sublimation1 and does not prescribe that it shall be free from this oil1 to which it principally owes its agreeable odor4 ,by the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid is not volatilized4 ,what remains in the resin may be separated by boiling it with caustic lime1 and precipitating the acid from the resulting benzoate of lime with hydrochloric acid4 ,benzoic acid can be obtained also in the wet way1 and the resin yields a greater product in this process than in the former2 yet it has a less perfumery value1 because it is free from the volatile oil which1 as above stated1 gives it its peculiar odor4 ,the wet method devised by ,scheele is as follows3--,make one ounce of freshly-burnt lime into a milk with from four to six ounces of hot water4 ,to the milk of lime1 four ounces of powdered benzoin and thirty ounces of water are to be added1 and the mixture boiled for half an hour1 and stirred during this operation1 and afterwards strained through linen4 ,the residue must be a second time boiled with twenty ounces of water and strained1 and a third time with ten ounces2 the fluid products must be mixed and evaporated to one-fourth of their volume1 and sufficient hydrochloric acid added to render them slightly acid4 ,when quite cold1 the crystals are to be separated from the fluid by means of a linen strainer1 upon which they are to be washed with cold water1 and pressed1 and then dissolved in hot distilled water1 from which the crystals separate on cooling4 ,when hydrochloric acid is added to a cold concentrated solution of the salts of benzoic acid1 it is precipitated as a white powder4 ,if the solution of the salts of this acid is too dilute and warm1 none or only a portion of the benzoic acid will be separated4 ,however1 the weaker the solution is1 and the more slowly it is cooled1 the larger will be the crystals of this acid4 ,in the preparation of this acid in the wet way1 lime is to be preferred to every other base1 because it forms insoluble combinations with the resinous constituents of the benzoin1 and because it prevents the gum-resin from conglomerating into an adhesive mass1 and also because an excess of this base is but slightly soluble4 ,stoltze has recommended a method by which all the acid can be removed from the benzoin3--,the resin is to be dissolved in spirit1 to which is to be added a watery solution of carbonate of soda1 decomposed previously by alcohol4 ,the spirit is to be removed by distillation1 and the remaining watery solution1 from which the resin has been separated by filtration1 treated with dilute sulphuric acid1 to precipitate the benzoic acid4 ,this method gives the greatest quantity of acid1 but is attended with a sacrifice of time and alcohol1 which renders it in an economical point of view inferior to the above process of ,scheele4 ,it is so far valuable1 that the total acid contents of the resin can be determined by it4 ,dr4 ,gregory considers the following process for obtaining benzoic acid the most productive4 ,dissolve benzoin in strong alcohol1 by the aid of heat1 and add to the solution1 whilst hot1 hydrochloric acid1 in sufficient quantity to precipitate the resin4 ,when the mixture is distilled1 the benzoic acid passes over in the form of benzoic ether4 ,distillation must be continued as long as any ether passes over4 ,water added towards the end of the operation will facilitate the expulsion of the ether from the retort4 ,when the ether ceases to pass over1 the hot water in the retort is filtered1 which deposits benzoic acid on cooling4 ,the benzoic ether and all the distilled liquids are now treated with caustic potash until the ether is decomposed1 and the solution is heated to boiling1 and super-saturated with hydrochloric acid1 which afterwards1 on cooling1 deposits1 in crystals1 benzoic acid4 ,benzoic acid1 as it exists in the resin1 is the natural production of the plant from which the resin is derived4 ,it may also be produced artificially4 ,abel found that when cumole 7,c#ah;,h#ab7 was treated with nitric acid1 so dilute that no red vapors were evolved for several days1 this hydro-carbon was converted into benzoic acid4 ,guckelberger has1 by the oxidation of casein with peroxide of manganese and sulphuric acid1 obtained as one of the products benzoic acid4 ,albumen1 fibrin1 and gelatin yielded similar results when treated as above4 ,woehler has detected benzoic acid in ,canadian castor1 along with salicin4 ,it is also formed by the oxidation of the volatile oil of bitter almonds4 ,benzoate of potash results when chloride of benzoyle is treated with caustic potash4 ,benzoic acid in the animal economy is converted into hippuric acid1 which may by the action of acids1 be reconverted into benzoic acid4 ,benzoic acid should be completely volatile1 without leaving any ash or being carbonized when heated4 ,when dissolved in warm water1 to which a little nitric acid has been added1 nitrate of silver and chloride of barium should produce no precipitates4 ,oxalate of potash should give no turbidity to an ammoniacal solution of this acid4 ,when heated with an excess of caustic potash it should evolve no smell of ammonia1 otherwise1 it has been adulterated with sal ammoniac4 ,in spirit1 benzoic acid is easily soluble1 and requires #bjj parts of cold and #bj parts of boiling water to dissolve one part of it4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,the ,,coloring-,,matters ,,of ,,flowers4 ,,by ,,fremy ,,and ,,cloez4 ,chemists possess only a very incomplete knowledge of the coloring matters of flowers4 ,their investigation involves difficulties which cannot be mistaken4 ,the matters which color flowers are uncrystallized2 they frequently change by the action of the reagents employed for their preparation2 and1 also1 very brilliantly-colored flowers owe their color to very small quantities of coloring matter4 ,on the nature of the coloring matters of flowers several opinions have been expressed4 ,some observers have assumed that flowers owe their color to only two coloring matters1 one of which is termed anthocyan1 and the other anthoxanthine4 ,others will find a relation between the green coloring of leaves1 the chlorophylle1 and the coloring matters of flowers4 ,they support their opinion generally on the results of the elementary analysis of those different bodies2 but all chemists know that chlorophylle has not yet been prepared in a pure condition4 ,probably1 it retains various quantities of fatty and albuminous bodies4 ,further1 the coloring matters of flowers are scarcely known1 so that it is impossible to establish relations supported by the necessarily uncertain composition of impure bodies4 ,some time since the blue color of flowers was ascribed to the presence of indigo2 but ,chevreul has shown1 in a certain way1 that the blue substance of flowers is always reddened by acids2 and that with indigo it is quite different1 which1 as is known1 retains its blue color even when the strongest acids are allowed to act on it4 ,it is thus seen that the coloring matters of flowers have heretofore only in a superficial manner been examined1 and that it is important to again undertake their complete examination1 as these bodies are interesting to the chemist1 because they are employed as reagents in the laboratory for the recognition of alkalies2 and by an improved knowledge of them the florist might find the way by which he could give to cultivated flowers various colors4 ,we have believed that before undertaking their elementary analysis1 methods must be carefully sought for which can be followed for the obtainment of the coloring matters of flowers1 and that it should be proved whether these substances are to be considered as independent bodies1 or whether they proceed from one and the same matter1 which is changed in various ways by the juices of the plant4 ,we now publish the results of our first investigations4 ,blue ,coloring ,matter of ,flowers 7,cyanine74--,the blue coloring matter of flowers we propose to call cyanine4 ,to obtain this substance we treat the petals of ,centauria cyanus1 ,viola odorata1 or ,iris pseudacorus1 with boiling alcohol1 by which the flowers are decolorized2 and the liquid acquires immediately a fine blue color4 ,if the coloring matter is allowed to remain some time in contact with alcohol1 it is perceived that the blue of the liquid gradually disappears1 and soon a yellow brown coloration takes its place4 ,the coloring matter has in this case suffered an actual reduction by the prolonged action of the alcohol1 but it will again assume its original color when the alcohol is allowed to evaporate in the air4 ,nevertheless1 the alcohol must not be allowed to remain in contact too long with the coloring matter1 because the alcoholic extract will not then again assume its blue coloration by the action of oxygen4 ,the residue remaining from the evaporation of the alcohol is treated with water1 which separates a fatty and resinous substance4 ,the watery solution which contains the coloring matter is then precipitated by neutral acetate of lead4 ,the precipitate1 which possesses a beautiful green color1 can be washed with plenty of water1 and then decomposed with sulphuretted hydrogen2 the coloring matter passes into the watery solution1 which is carefully evaporated in a water-bath2 the residue is again dissolved in absolute alcohol2 and lastly1 the alcoholic solution is mixed with ether1 which precipitates the cyanine in the form of blue flocks4 ,cyanine is uncrystallizable1 soluble in water and alcohol1 insoluble in ether2 acids1 and acid salts color it immediately red2 by alkalies it is1 as known1 colored green4 ,cyanine appears to behave as an acid1 at least it forms with lime1 baryta1 strontia1 oxide of lead1 c41 green compounds insoluble in water4 ,bodies absorbing oxygen1 as sulphurous acid1 phosphorous acid1 and alcohols1 decolorize it2 under the influence of oxygen its color is restored4 ,we must here mention that ,moroz has prepared a beautiful blue substance from ,centauria cyanus by treatment with absolute alcohol4 ,rose-red ,coloring ,matter4--,we have employed alcohol to extract the substance which colors rose-red certain dahlias1 roses1 poeonias1 c4 ,for the procuration of this coloring matter the method pursued is exactly as that for the preparation of cyanine4 ,by an attentive comparison of the properties of this coloring matter with those of cyanine1 we have found that the rose-red coloring matter is the same as the blue1 or at least results from a modification of the same independent principle4 ,it appears in the rose-red modification1 when the juice of the plant1 with which it exists in contact1 possesses an acid reaction4 ,we have always observed this acid reaction in the juices of plants with red or rose-red coloration1 while the blue juices of plants have always exhibited an alkaline reaction4 ,we have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored flowers which are cultivated in the ,paris ,museum to the influence of alkalies1 and have seen that they first become blue and then green by their action4 ,it is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers1 as those of the ,mallow1 and in particular those of the ,hibiscus ,syriacus1 acquire by fading a blue and then a green coloration1 which change1 as we have found1 depends on the decomposition of an organic nitrogenous substance1 which is found very frequently in the petals4 ,this body generates as it decomposes ammonia1 which communicates to the flowers the blue or green color4 ,by action of weak acids1 the petals can be restored to their rose-red color4 ,the alteration of color of certain rose-red flowers can also be observed when the petals are very rapidly dried1 for example1 in vacuo1 by which it cannot be easily assumed that a nitrogenous body has undergone decomposition to the evolution of ammonia4 ,but1 before all things1 it must be mentioned that in this case the modification of color passes into violet1 and never arrives at green2 and1 further1 that it is always accompanied with the evolution of carbonic acid1 which we have detected by a direct experiment4 ,petals which were before rose-red1 and have become violet by slight drying1 evolve carbonic acid1 and on that account it may be assumed that the rose-red color is produced in the petals by this carbonic acid1 and that by its expulsion the petals assume the blue color1 by which the flowers with neutral juices are characterized4 ,we believe that we are able to speak with certainty that flowers with a rose-red1 violet1 or blue color1 owe their coloration to one and the same substance1 but which is modified in various ways by the influence of the juices of plants4 ,scarlet-red flowers also contain cyanine reddened by an acid1 but in such cases this substance is mixed with a yellow coloring matter which we will now describe4 ,yellow ,coloring ,matter4--,the simplest experiments show that no analogy exists between the substance which colors flowers yellow and that of which we have already spoken4 ,the agents which generate so easily with cyanine1 the rose-red1 violet1 or green coloration1 cannot in any case impart these colors to the yellow substance obtained from flowers4 ,by the examination of the various yellow-colored flowers1 we have ascertained that they owe their coloration to two substances1 which differ from one another in their properties1 and appear not to be derived from the same independent principle4 ,one is completely insoluble in water1 which we have termed xanthine1 a name which ,runge has given to a yellow matter from madder4 ,as this name has not been accepted in science1 we have employed it to denote one of the coloring matters of yellow flowers4 ,the other substance is very soluble in water1 and is by us termed xantheine4 ,xanthine1 or the ,yellow ,coloring ,matter insoluble in water4--,we have prepared this coloring matter from many yellow flowers1 but chiefly from ,helianthus annuus4 ,to obtain it we treat the flowers with boiling absolute alcohol1 which dissolves the coloring matter in the heat1 and by cooling almost completely allows it again to precipitate4 ,the yellow deposit which is obtained in this way1 is not pure xanthine1 as it contains a rather considerable quantity of oil4 ,to separate this oil we have recourse to a moderate saponification2 thus1 we heat the yellow precipitate with a small quantity of alkali to saponify the fatty body mixed with the xanthine1 which even contains the xanthine dissolved4 ,as the coloring matter is soluble in the soap solution1 we do not treat the mass with water1 but decompose it with an acid which isolates the xanthine and the fatty acids resulting from the saponification4 ,this precipitate we treat with cold alcohol1 which leaves behind the fatty acids1 and dissolves the xanthine4 ,this substance is a fine yellow color1 insoluble in water1 but soluble in alcohol and ether1 which are thereby colored golden yellow4 ,it appears to be uncrystallizable1 and possesses the general properties of resins4 ,xanthine1 in combination with cyanine1 modified by the various juices of plants1 communicates in variable proportions orange-yellow1 scarlet-red1 and red colors to flowers4 ,xantheine1 or the ,coloring ,matter soluble in water4--,by the preparation of the substance which colors yellow certain dahlias1 it is at once perceived that it has no analogy to xanthine4 ,the latter is as known insoluble in water1 while the coloring matter under consideration is readily soluble in water4 ,to obtain the xanthine we treat the petals of yellow flowering dahlias with alcohol1 which quickly dissolves the yellow coloring matter1 besides the fat and resin4 ,the solution is evaporated to dryness1 and the residue treated with water1 whereby the fat and resin are separated4 ,the water is again evaporated to dryness1 and the residue treated with absolute alcohol4 ,the resulting solution diluted with water is mixed with neutral acetate of lead1 which precipitates the coloring matters4 ,the lead precipitate is then decomposed with sulphuric acid1 upon which the xantheine which remains dissolved in the water is purified by alcohol4 ,xantheine is soluble in water1 alcohol1 and ether1 but crystallizes from none of these solutions4 ,alkalies color it intensely brown4 ,its power of coloration is considerable4 ,it dyes various fabrics of a yellow tone1 which is without brilliancy4 ,acids again destroy the brown coloration produced by alkalies4 ,xantheine combines with most metallic bases1 and forms therewith yellow or brown insoluble lakes4 ,the facts here related agree with all which has been previously observed regarding the coloring matters of flowers4 ,it is known that blue flowers can become red1 and even white1 where their coloring matter is destroyed1 but never yellow--and vice versa4 ,these three coloring matters can generate the colors either alone or by admixture1 which are seen in flowers2 but whether they are the only matters which color flowers1 we are at present unable to determine4--,journal de ,pharmacie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,improved ,,process ,,for ,,bleaching ,,bees'-,,wax ,,and ,,the ,,fatty ,,acids4 ,,by ,,mr4 ,g4,f4 ,,wilson4 ,this improved process consists of two parts3--#ast1 the application of highly-heated steam to heat the fatty matters under treatment1 by which means the requisite heat for melting these substances is obtained1 and at the same time the atmosphere is thereby excluded2 the heated steam so applied in its passage off1 carries with it the offensive smells given off by the fatty matters1 and being made to traverse a pipe or passage up or along which gaseous chlorine is allowed to flow1 a complete disinfection of the offensive products is thereby effected4 #b;dly1 the treating of bees'-wax in a mixture of hard acid fat and bees'-wax1 with compounds of chlorine and oxygen1 preferring to employ that disengaged from chlorate of potash by treating it with sulphuric acid4 ,for this purpose1 ,mr4 ,wilson takes at the rate1 say1 of a ton of yellow bees'-wax1 and melts and boils it up with free steam for about half an hour4 ,it is then allowed to stand a short time1 and is then decanted into another vessel provided with a steam-pipe to emit free steam2 about #bj lbs4 of chlorate of potash is added1 and the steam turned on2 #hj lbs4 of sulphuric acid1 diluted with a like weight of water1 is then gradually added4 ,the matters are allowed to stand for a short time1 and are then decanted into another vessel1 and again boiled up with free steam1 and treated with a like quantity of diluted sulphuric acid4 ,the bees'-wax is then decanted into a receiver1 and is ready for use4 ,the bees'-wax may1 before undergoing these processes1 be combined and boiled up with a hard fatty acid1 and then treated as above described4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,chemical ,,examination ,,of ,,naples ,,soap4 ,a4 ,faiszt has submitted this celebrated shaving soap to analysis4 ,he states that it is made by saponifying mutton fat with lime1 and then separating the fatty acids from the soap thus formed1 by means of a mineral acid4 ,these fatty acids are afterwards combined with ordinary caustic potash to produce the ,naples soap4 ,he found that #ajj parts of this soap contained ,parts4 ,fatty acids1 #eg4ad ,potash combined with the fatty acids1 #aj4ci ,sulphate of potash1 chloride of potassium1 with a trace of carbonate of potash1 #d4bb ,silica1 c41 #j4df ,water1 #bg4fh ----- #ii4hi ,gewerbeblatt aus ,wurttemberg4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,soap4 ,the removal of the duty from soap1 and the consequent emancipation of this branch of industry from the tender mercies of the ,excise1 has given a fresh impetus to the manufacture of this important article of daily use1 and enabled some processes to be practically carried out in ,england1 which1 previous to the removal of the duty1 could not be adopted in this part of her ,majesty's dominions4 ,it will doubtless appear strange to those unacquainted with the circumstances1 that owing to the mode of levying the duty by admeasurement1 and not by actual weight1 the maker of a particular kind of soap was debarred the privilege of manufacturing in this country4 ,fortunately for him1 the manufacture of soap being free from all ,excise restrictions in ,ireland1 he was enabled to carry out his process in the sister kingdom1 whence it was exported to ,england1 and admitted here on payment of the ,customs' duty1 which was the same as the ,excise duty on its manufacture here4 ,all this roundabout method of doing business is now done away with1 and no restriction now exists to mar the peace of the soap manufacturer4 ,amongst various new processes lately introduced is that of ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,jennings1 which is practically carried out in the following manner3-- ,combine #ajjj lbs4 of stearic or margaric acid1 as free from elaine or oleine as possible1 or palmatine1 or any vegetable or animal stearine or margarine1 at the temperature of #bab deg4 ,fahr41 with a solution of bicarbonate of potash or soda1 specific gravity #aejj4 ,constantly stir or mix until an intimate combination is obtained1 and that the elements will not part when tried upon glass or any other similar substance4 ,when the mass is cooled down to about #fj deg4 ,fahr4 add one pound per cent4 of liquor ammoniae1 specific gravity #hhj1 and one pound per cent4 of strongest solution of caustic potash2 these are to be added gradually1 and fully mixed or stirred until perfectly combined4 ,dissolve #ae to #ah pounds per cent4 of common resin of commerce1 by boiling it with a solution of subcarbonate of potash and common soda of commerce1 in equal parts1 as much as will give the solution a specific gravity of about #ahjj1 when boiling hot4 ,mix these perfectly with the above-mentioned stearic or margaric acids1 and carbonated alkali2 then add a strong solution of caustic potash or soda1 until a perfect saponification is produced4 ,the dose of caustic alkali will much depend upon the purity of the stearine or margarine employed4 ,the separation is now effected by using common salt1 or sulphate of soda1 c41 as is known and practised by soap manufacturers4 ,if the soap intended to be produced is to be colorless1 no resin must be employed1 and a larger dose of liquor ammoniae and caustic alkali must be used1 according to the dryness of the stearine matters to be operated upon4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,,simple ,,and ,,certain ,,method ,,to ,,determine ,,the ,,commercial ,,value ,,of ,,soap4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,,alexander ,m,ue,l,l,e,r4 ,in consequence of the ceremonious process by which the fatty acids are determined in one portion of the soap1 and the alkali by the incineration of another1 ,i consider the following method is not unworthy of publication1 because it appears to afford quicker and more correct results by reason of the greater simplicity of the manipulation4 ,it is available principally for soda soaps1 which are the most common2 but it may be also employed with corresponding alterations for soaps which have other bases4 ,a piece of soap weighing two or three grammes is dissolved in a tared beaker glass of about #afj cubic centimetres capacity with #hj to #ajj cubic centimetres of water1 by heat1 in a water-bath1 and then three or four times the quantity of diluted sulphuric acid or as much as is necessary to decompose the soap1 added from a burette4 ,when1 after repeated agitation1 the fatty acids have separated in a transparent clear stratum from the aqueous solution1 it is allowed to cool1 and then the contents of the beaker glass are placed in a moistened filter1 which has been previously dried at #bab deg4 ,fahr4 and weighed4 ,the contents of the filter are washed until their acid reaction disappears4 ,in the meanwhile the beaker glass is placed in a steam-bath1 so that1 it being already dry1 may support the washed and partly dry filter1 which is laid on the mouth of the glass as if it were in the funnel4 ,the fatty acids soon pass through the paper1 and for the most part flow ultimately to the bottom of the beaker glass2 the increase of weight of which1 after cooling1 and the subtraction of the weight of the filter1 gives the quantity of fatty acids present in the soap4 ,a second drying and weighing is not necessary1 if on the cold sides of the interior of the glass no damp is to be observed1 which is occasioned by a trace of water still present4 ,if the quantity of oxide of iron added to marble the soap is considerable1 it may be easily found by incinerating the filter and determining the weight of the residue4 ,the fluid runs from the fatty acids on the filter1 which1 with the washings1 has been preserved in a sufficiently large beaker glass1 is colored with tincture of litmus1 and decomposed with a test alkaline solution until the blue color appears4 ,the difference of the quantity of alkali required to neutralize the sulphuric acid1 and the quantity of sulphuric acid used in the first instance1 allows a calculation to be made as to the quantity of effective alkali in the soap1 for example3-- #bc4hf grms4 of soap 7partly cocoa-nut oil soap74 #ag4ie fatty acids with filter4 #jd4dd filter4 ----- #ac4ea grms4 of hydrates of fatty acids #ef4fb per cent4 #bh4jj cub4 cent4 of the diluted sulphuric acid applied for the decomposition of the soap1 of which #ajj cub4 cent4 represent #bihb grms4 of carbonate of soda4 #ag4ee cub4 cent4 of alkaline fluid1 which were used for the saturation of the above acid1 and of which #ajj cub4 cent4 saturate an equal quantity of that acid4 ---- #aj4de cub4 cent4 of the sulphuric necessary for the alkali contained in the soap1 representing #j4ahbc grms4 of soda #g4fd per cent4 ,a determination of the alkali as a sulphate afforded in another portion of soap #i4eg per cent4 of soda1 because the sulphate of soda and chloride of sodium present in the soap gave up their alkali4 ,the alkaline fluid applied by me was a saccharine solution of lime1 which can be naturally replaced by a solution of soda1 and must be if the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda mixed with the soap shall be determined in the following way3-- ,the fluid again exactly neutralized with alkali is evaporated to dryness1 and the residue gently heated to redness4 ,as in the above manipulation1 the fluid was not heated to the boiling point1 the original chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda are contained in the weighed residue1 besides the soda of the soap and that which has been added with the sulphuric acid1 forming sulphate of soda4 ,a second exposure to a red heat with sulphuric acid converts the whole residue into sulphate of soda1 and from the increase of weight1 by a comparison of the equivalents of ,na,cl and ,na,o1 ,,so#c the quantity of the former may be decided4 ,according to the equivalents which ,kopp furnished in #ahej1 the increase of weight to the chloride of sodium is as #a3d4fh4 ,the original sulphate of soda must be1 lastly1 found by the subtraction of the same salt formed plus the calculated chloride of sodium from the first heated residue4 ,in practice1 it is seldom necessary to proceed with the determination of the chloride of sodium and sulphate of soda1 except with stirred and cocoa-nut oil soaps2 certainly less of the truth is seen if1 after the above determination of the fatty acids and the effective alkali1 the absent per centage of water is introduced in the calculation1 than if the water is reckoned1 which is never completely evolved from soap1 even technically prepared at #cjb deg4 ,fahr41 and another determination made of the fatty acids or alkali en bloc the fatty acids1 or even the alkaline contents4 ,the method here given partakes of the usual imperfections1 that the fatty acids as well as the unsaponified soap are equally estimated1 and the mixed hydrate or carbonate of the alkali as well as the combined alkali4 ,the presence of the carbonate can be easily recognized by the foaming of the soap solution1 upon the addition of the sulphuric acid4 ,these imperfections1 however1 are of little importance4 ,it must be granted that the minutely correct determination of the constitution of soap must be always yielded up to those who are technically conversant with this department of chemistry1 the estimation of free alkali and unchanged fat excluded in1 at least1 by certain ages of the soap4 ,further1 a considerable excess of one or another ingredient soon betrays itself by a corresponding departure in the soap of the characteristic properties of a good product1 and a small excess can be judged sufficiently exact from the proportion of the alkali1 which1 supposing soda present1 should not amount to more than #ac per cent4 with a pure cocoa-nut oil soap1 not less than #aa4e per cent4 with a tallow soap2 but with palm oil and mixed soaps the one or the other limit approximates4--,journal fuer ,praktische ,chemie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,the ,,natural ,,fats4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,,charles ,l,oe,w,i,g4 ,the fats which exist in nature can be divided into the general and the special2 the former exist in almost all plants and parts of plants2 the latter includes only some vegetable substances1 as laurostearine1 myristicine1 and palmatine4 ,the consistence of fats of the general kind depend upon the proportions of margarine1 stearine1 and oleine contained in them4 ,the former preponderate in the solid fats 7butter1 lard1 and tallow72 and the latter in the fluid ones or oils4 ,according as an oil contains oleic acid or olinic acid1 it is termed a fatty or drying oil4 ,to the class of fatty oils belong olive1 almond1 hazel-nut1 beech1 rape oils1 c42 to that of drying oils1 linseed1 nut1 hemp1 poppy1 grape-seed1 oils1 c42 which are used for varnishes4 ,in the vegetable kingdom the fats are chiefly in the seeds and in their coverings1 seldom in the perispemium 7poppy71 and in the fleshy substance surrounding the seed 7olive74 ,the fat in the seed is mostly enclosed in cells with a proteine compound4 ,in the animal kingdom certain parts of the body are quite filled with fat-cells1 particularly under the skin 7,paniculus adiposus71 in the cavities of the abdomen1 in the so-called omentum1 in the kidneys and the tubulated canals of the bones4 ,fat is also enclosed in cells 7fatty globules7 in milk4 ,it is established1 without a doubt1 that a greater portion of the fat which exists in the animal kingdom originates from the vegetable kingdom1 for it is introduced into the body cotemporaneously with the proteine compounds of that kingdom4 ,a portion of the fat as well as wax is formed in the animal organismus1 as shown by a number of observations1 and in most cases it is unquestionable that the non-nitrogenous nutriments1 as starch1 serve for the formation of fat by a process of deoxidation2 nevertheless1 the formation of fat in the animal body appears only to take place when the substances containing starch enter the body simultaneously with fat4 ,if the fat existing in the animal body is contained in cellular tissue1 its separation may be simply effected by placing the incised tissue in hot water4 ,the cells burst and the fat collects itself on the surface of the water4 ,if vegetable substances contain fat in large quantity1 as1 for example1 seeds1 it may be obtained by expression4 ,the dried seeds are bruised and expressed between either cold or hot metallic plates4 ,olives are laid in heaps before expression2 when they begin to ferment1 they can be completely expressed4 ,if animal and vegetable substances contain only a little fat1 it must be extracted by ether4 ,in the pure condition the fats are mostly odorless and tasteless2 when they possess an odor1 it arises mostly from the presence of small quantities of volatile fatty acids1 as butyric acid1 capric acid1 c42 which becomes free through the decomposition of their oxide of glycyl combinations4 ,this ensues by the presence of water and air through a kind of fermentation1 and as it appears1 by the presence of a nitrogenous substance4 ,the fats are insoluble in water1 and1 with the exception of castor oil1 are taken up by cold alcohol in very small quantities1 however1 more in proportion as they contain oleine4 ,in boiling alcohol they are dissolved1 but are1 for the most part1 again separated on cooling1 particularly those rich in stearine4 ,all fats are taken up by ether but those containing stearine in the smallest quantity4 ,their specific gravities fluctuate between 4#ia and 4#ic4 ,when heated1 fats assume a dark color1 and boil between #dhb deg4 and #egb deg4 ,fahr41 but the boiling-point continuously rises1 while an uninterrupted decomposition proceeds4 ,from oxide of glycyl ensues acroline2 oleic acid affords a fatty acid1 and among the decomposition products of fats containing stearine and margarine are found pure margaric acid1 and1 at the same time1 some hydro-carbons are formed4 ,when exposed quickly to a high temperature1 fats are completely decomposed4 7,oil gas47 ,in closed vessels the pure fats undergo no change1 but1 placed in thin layers in the air1 the fats containing oleine and oline rapidly absorb oxygen under the strong evolution of heat1 which will inflame porous bodies1 as cotton wool4 ,the purer the fats are the more quickly their oxidation results4 ,when the fats contain slimy materials1 these latter can be destroyed with a little oxide of lead and water4 7,preparation for the application of varnishes47 ,the action of nitric acid1 nitrous acid1 chlorine1 sulphuric acid1 c41 on fats is the same as that of these bodies on the fatty acids4 ,the fatty oils dissolve sulphur in the heat which is again partly precipitated on cooling4 ,when sulphur is heated with fatty oils1 namely1 with linseed oil1 it dissolves by degrees1 and a thick dark mass is formed1 the so-called balsam of sulphur4 ,by raising the heat1 a violent reaction ensues under the evolution of sulphuretted hydrogen1 and1 at the same time1 an oil resembling oil of garlic volatilizes4 ,this oil begins to boil at #afj deg4 ,fahr41 but its boiling-point rises continually4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,perfumes ,,as ,,preventives ,,of ,,mouldiness4 ,an interesting paper on this subject has been published by ,dr4 ,macculloch4 ,we presume our readers are aware that mouldiness is occasioned by the growth of minute vegetables4 ,ink1 paste1 leather1 and seeds1 are the substances that most frequently suffer from it4 ,the effect of cloves in preserving ink is well known2 any of the essential oils answer equally well4 ,leather may be kept free from mould by the same substances4 ,thus ,russian leather1 which is perfumed with the tar of birch1 never becomes mouldy2 indeed it prevents it from occurring in other bodies4 ,a few drops of any essential oil are sufficient also to keep books entirely free from it4 ,for harness1 oil of turpentine is recommended4 ,bookbinders1 in general1 employ alum for preserving their paste2 but mould frequently forms on it4 ,shoemakers' resin is sometimes also used for the same purpose2 but it is less effectual than oil of turpentine4 ,the best preventives1 however1 are the essential oils1 even in small quantity1 as those of peppermint1 anise1 or cassia1 by which paste may be kept almost any length of time2 indeed1 it has1 in this way1 been preserved for years4 ,the paste recommended by ,dr4 ,macculloch is made in the usual way1 with flour1 some brown sugar1 and a little corrosive sublimate2 the sugar keeping it flexible when dry1 and the sublimate preventing it from fermenting1 and from being attacked by insects4 ,after it is made1 a few drops of any of the essential oils are added4 ,paste made in this way dries when exposed to the air1 and may be used merely by wetting it4 ,if required to be kept always ready for use1 it ought to be put into covered pots4 ,seeds may also be preserved by the essential oils2 and this is of great consequence1 when they are to be sent to a distance4 ,of course moisture must be excluded as much as possible1 as the oils or ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,fusel ,,oil4 ,,by ,w4 ,,bastick4 ,this organic compound was first discovered by ,scheele1 as one of the distillation products of the wort obtained from the fermentation of potatoes4 ,it has been subsequently examined by ,pelletier1 ,dumas1 ,cahours1 and others4 ,it is generally now termed the hydrate of the oxide of amyl1 from amyl being supposed to be its base or radical1 as cyanogen is regarded to be the radical of another series of compounds4 ,it passes over towards the termination of the distillation process in a white turbid fluid1 which consists of a watery and alcoholic solution of the fusel oil4 ,the crude oil1 consisting of about one-half of its weight of alcohol and water1 may be purified1 being shaken with water and redistilled1 with the previous addition of chloride of calcium4 ,when the temperature of the contents of retort reaches #bif deg4 ,fahr41 pure fusel oil distils over4 ,fusel oil is a colorless oily fluid1 which possesses at first not an unagreeable odor1 but at last is very disgusting1 producing oppression at the chest and exciting cough4 ,it has a sharp hot taste1 and burns with a white blue flame4 ,it boils at #bif deg4 ,fahr41 and at temperature of -#d deg4 ,fahr4 it becomes solid1 and forms crystals4 ,its specific gravity at #ei deg4 ,fahr4 is #j4habd1 and its formula ,c#aj;,h#ab,o#b4 ,on paper it produces a greasy stain1 which disappears by heat1 and when exposed to the action of the air it acquires an acid reaction4 ,fusel oil is slightly soluble in water1 to which it imparts its odor2 and soluble in all proportions in alcohol1 ether1 volatile and fixed oils1 and acetic acid4 ,it dissolves phosphorus1 sulphur1 and iodine without any noticeable change1 and also mixes with caustic soda and potash4 ,it rapidly absorbs hydrochloric acid1 with the disengagement of heat4 ,when mixed with concentrated sulphuric acid1 the mixture becomes of a violet-red color1 and bisulphate of amyloxide is formed4 ,nitric acid and chlorine decompose it4 ,by its distillation with anhydrous phosphoric acid1 a fluid1 oily combination of hydrogen and carbon results4 ,by oxidation with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid1 fusel oil yields valerianic acid1 which is used in medicine1 and apple-oil1 employed as a flavoring ingredient in confectionery4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,essence ,,of ,,pine-,,apple4 ,,by ,w4 ,,bastick4 ,the above essence is1 as already known1 butyric ether more or less diluted with alcohol2 to obtain which pure1 on the large scale and economically1 the following process is recommended3-- ,dissolve #f lbs4 of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid1 in #bf lbs4 of boiling water4 ,let the solution stand for several days2 then add #h ounces of putrid cheese broken up with #c lbs4 of skimmed and curdled sour milk and #c lbs4 of levigated chalk4 ,the mixture should be kept and stirred daily in a warm place1 at the temperature of about #ib deg4 ,fahr41 as long as gas is evolved1 which is generally the case for five or six weeks4 ,the liquid thus obtained1 is mixed with an equal volume of cold water1 and #h lbs4 of crystallized carbonate of soda1 previously dissolved in water1 added4 ,it is then filtered from the precipitated carbonate of lime2 the filtrate is to be evaporated down to #aj lbs41 when #e-a_/b lbs4 of sulphuric acid1 previously diluted with an equal weight of water1 are to be carefully added4 ,the butyric acid1 which separates on the surface of the liquid as a dark-colored oil1 is to be removed1 and the rest of the liquid distilled2 the distillate is now neutralized with carbonate of soda1 and the butyric acid separated as before1 with sulphuric acid4 ,the whole of the crude acid is to be rectified with the addition of an ounce of sulphuric acid to every pound4 ,the distillate is then saturated with fused chloride of calcium1 and redistilled4 ,the product will be about #bh ounces of pure butyric acid4 ,to prepare the butyric acid or essence of pine-apple1 from this acid proceed as follows3--,mix1 by weight1 three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol1 and two parts of sulphuric acid in a retort1 and submit the whole1 with a sufficient heat1 to a gentle distillation1 until the fluid which passes over ceases to emit a fruity odor4 ,by treating the distillate with chloride of calcium1 and by its redistillation1 the pure ether may be obtained4 ,the boiling-point of butyric ether is #bch deg4 ,fahr4 ,its specific gravity1 #j4ijd1 and its formula1 ,c#ab;,h#ab,o#d1 or ,c#d;,h#e,o ,c#h;,h#g,o#c4 ,bensch's process1 above described1 for the production of butyric acid1 affords a remarkable exemplification of the extraordinary transformations that organic bodies undergo in contact with ferment1 or by catalytic action4 ,when cane sugar is treated with tartaric acid1 especially under the influence of heat1 it is converted into grape sugar4 ,this grape sugar1 in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous substances1 such as cheese1 is transformed in the first instance into lactic acid1 which combines with the lime of the chalk4 ,the acid of the lactate of lime1 thus produced1 is by the further influence of the ferment changed into butyric acid4 ,hence1 butyrate of lime is the final result of the catalytic action in the process we have here recommended4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,preparation ,,of ,,crude ,,pelargonate ,,of ,,ethyl-,,oxide 7,,essence ,,of ,,quince47 ,,by ,,dr4 ,r4 ,,wagner4 ,it has been believed1 until the most recent period1 that the peel of quinces contains oenanthylate of ethyl-oxide4 ,new researches1 however1 have led to the supposition that the odorous principle of quinces is derived from the ether of pelargonic acid4 ,in my last research on the action of nitric acid on oil of rue1 ,i found that besides the fatty acids1 which ,gerhardt had already discovered1 pelargonic acid is formed4 ,this process may be advantageously employed for the preparation of crude pelargonate of ethyl-oxide1 which1 on account of its extremely agreeable odor1 may be applied as a fruit essence equally with those prepared by ,dobereiner1 ,hofmann1 and ,fehling4 ,for the preparation of the liquid1 which can be named the essence of quince1 oil of rue is treated with double its quantity of very diluted nitric acid1 and the mixture heated until it begins to boil4 ,after some time two layers are to be observed in the liquid3 the upper one is brownish1 and the lower one consists of the products of the oxidation of oil of rue and the excess of nitric acid4 ,the lower layer is freed from the greater part of its nitric acid by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath4 ,the white flocks frequently found in the acid liquid1 which are probably fatty acids1 are separated by filtration4 ,the filtrate is mixed with spirit1 and long digested in a gentle heat1 by which a fluid is formed1 which has the agreeable odor of quince in the highest degree1 and may be purified by distillation4 ,the spirituous solution of pelargonic ether may also be profitably prepared from oleic acid1 according to ,gottlieb's method4--,journal fuer ,praktische ,chemie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,preparation ,,of ,,rum-,,ether4 ,take of black oxide of manganese1 of sulphuric acid1 each twelve pounds2 of alcohol1 twenty-six pounds2 of strong acetic acid1 ten pounds4 ,mix1 and distil twelve pints4 ,the ether1 as above prepared1 is an article of commerce in ,austria1 being the body to which rum owes its peculiar flavor4--,austrian ,journal of ,pharmacy4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,essences4 ,,by ,,fehling4 ,pine-apple ,oil is a solution of one part of butyric ether1 in eight or ten parts of alcohol4 ,for the preparation of this ether1 pure butyric acid must be first obtained by the fermentation of sugar1 according to the method of ,bensch4 ,one pound of this acid is dissolved in one pound of strong alcohol1 and mixed with from a quarter to half an ounce of sulphuric acid2 the mixture is heated for some minutes1 whereby the butyric ether separates as a light stratum4 ,the whole is mixed with half its volume of water1 and the upper stratum then removed2 the heavy fluid is distilled1 by which more butyric ether is obtained4 ,the distillate and the removed oily liquid are shaken with a little water1 the lighter portion of the liquid removed1 which at last1 by being shaken with water and a little soda1 is freed from adhering acid4 ,for the preparation of the essence of pine-apple1 one pound of this ether is dissolved in #h or #aj pounds of alcohol4 #bj or #be drops of this solution is sufficient to give to one pound of sugar a strong taste of pine-apple1 if a little citric or tartaric acid has been added4 ,pear-oil4--,this is an alcoholic solution of acetate of amyloxide1 and acetate of ethyloxide4 ,for its preparation1 one pound of glacial acetic acid is added to an equal weight of fusel-oil 7which has been prepared by being washed with soda and water1 and then distilled at a temperature between #bed deg4 and #bhd deg4 ,fahr471 and mixed with half a pound of sulphuric acid4 ,the mixture is digested for some hours at a temperature of #bed deg41 by which means acetate of amyloxide separates1 particularly on the addition of some water4 ,the crude acetate of amyloxide obtained by separation1 and by the distillation of the liquid to which the water has been added1 is finally purified by being washed with soda and water4 ,fifteen parts of acetate of amyloxide are dissolved with half a part of acetic ether in #ajj or #abj parts of alcohol2 this is the essence of pear1 which1 when employed to flavor sugar or syrup1 to which a little citric or tartaric acid has been added1 affords the flavor of bergamot pears1 and a fruity1 refreshing taste4 ,apple-oil is an alcoholic solution of valerianate of amyloxide4 ,it is obtained impure1 as a by product1 when for the preparation of valerianic acid1 fusel-oil is distilled with bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid4 ,it is better prepared in the following manner3--,for the preparation of valerianic acid1 #a part of fusel-oil is mixed gradually with #c parts of sulphuric acid1 and #b parts of water added4 ,a solution of #b-a_/d parts of bichromate of potash1 with #d-a_/b parts of water1 is heated in a tubulated retort1 and into this fluid the former mixture is gradually poured1 so that the ebullition is not too rapid4 ,the distillate is saturated with carbonate of soda1 and warmed1 when a solution of #c parts of crystallized carbonate of soda1 #b parts of strong sulphuric acid1 diluted with an equal quantity of water1 are added4 ,the valerianic acid separates as an oily stratum4 ,one part1 by weight1 of pure fusel-oil is carefully mixed with an equal weight of sulphuric acid4 ,the cold solution is added to #a-a_/d parts of the above valerianic acid2 the mixture is warmed for some minutes 7not too long or too much7 in a water-bath1 and then mixed with a little water1 by which means the impure valerianate of amyloxide separates1 which is washed with water and carbonate of soda4 ,for use as an essence of apples1 one part of this valerianate of amyloxide is dissolved in #f or #h parts of alcohol4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,volatile ,,oil ,,of ,,gaultheria ,,procumbens4 ,,by ,w4 ,,bastick4 ,the chemical history of this oil is one of great importance and interest1 affording1 as it does1 one of the examples where the progress of modern chemistry has succeeded in producing artificially a complex organic body1 previously only known as the result of vital force4 ,this volatile oil is obtained from the winter-green1 an ,american shrub of the heath family1 by distillation4 ,when this plant is distilled1 at first an oil passes over which consists of ,c#aj;,h#h1 but when the temperature reaches #dfd deg4 ,fahr41 a pure oil distils into the receiver4 ,therefore the essential oil of this plant1 like many others1 consists of two portions--one a hydro-carbon1 and the other an oxygenated compound2 this latter is the chief constituent of the oil1 and that which is of so much chemical interest1 from the fact that it has been artificially prepared4 ,it is termed1 when thus prepared1 the spiroylate of the oxide of methyl1 and is obtained when two parts of wood spirit1 one and a half parts of spiroylic acid1 and one part of sulphuric acid are distilled together4 ,it is a colorless liquid1 of an agreeable aromatic odor and taste2 it dissolves slightly in water1 but in all proportions in ether and alcohol2 it boils between #daa deg4 and #dce deg4 ,fahr41 and has a specific gravity of #a4agc4 ,this compound expels carbonic acid from its combinations1 and forms a series of salts1 which contain one atom of base and one atom of spiroylate of the oxide of methyl4 ,it behaves therefore as a conjugate acid4 ,its formula is ,c#ad;,h#e,o#e ,c#b;,h#c,o4 ,the spiroylic acid may be separated from the natural oil by treating it with a concentrated solution of caustic potash at a temperature of #aac deg4 ,fahr41 when wood spirit is formed and evaporates1 and the solution contains the spiroylate of potash1 from which1 when decomposed with sulphuric acid1 the spiroylic acid separates and subsides in the fluid4 ,spiroylic acid is also formed by the oxidation of spiroyligenic acid1 and when saligenin1 salicin1 courmacin1 or indigo1 is heated with caustic potash4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,on ,,the ,,application ,,of ,,organic ,,chemistry ,,to ,,perfumery4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,a4,w4 ,,hofmann1 ,professor to the ,royal ,college of ,chemistry1 ,london4 ,cahours' excellent researches concerning the essential oil of ,gaultheria procumbens 7a ,north ,american plant of the natural order of the ,ericinae of ,jussieu71 which admits of so many applications in perfumery1,i have opened a new field in this branch of industry4 ,the introduction of this oil among compound ethers must necessarily direct the attention of perfumers,j towards this important branch of compounds1 the number of which is daily increasing by the labors of those who apply themselves to organic chemistry4 ,the striking similarity of the smell of these ethers to that of fruit had not escaped the observation of chemistry2 however1 it was reserved to practical men to discover by which choice and combinations it might be possible to imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a nicety1 that makes it probable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a natural combination identical to that produced by art2 so much so1 as to enable the chemist to produce from fruits the said combinations1 provided he could have at his disposal a sufficient quantity to operate upon4 ,the manufacture of artificial aromatic oils for the purpose of perfumery,k is1 of course1 a recent branch of industry2 nevertheless1 it has already fallen into the hands of several distillers1 who produce sufficient quantity to supply the trade2 a fact1 which has not escaped the observation of the ,jury at the ,london ,exhibition4 ,in visiting the stalls of ,english and ,french perfumers at the ,crystal ,palace1 we found a great variety of these chemical perfumes1 the applications of which were at the same time practically illustrated by confectionery flavored by them4 ,however1 as most of the samples of the oils sent to the ,exhibition were but small1 ,i was prevented1 in many cases1 from making an accurate analysis of them4 ,the largest samples were those of a compound labelled pear-oil1 which1 by analysis1 ,i discovered to be an alcoholic solution of pure acetate of amyloxide4 ,not having sufficient quantity to purify it for combustion1 ,i dissolved it with potash1 by which free fusel-oil was separated1 and determined the acetic acid in the form of a silver salt4 #j4cjhj gram4 of silver salt #j4aiig gram4 of silver4 ,the per centage of silver in acetate of silver is1 according to ,theory1 #fd4fh ,experiment1 #fd4ee ,the acetate of amyloxide1 which1 according to the usual way of preparing it1 represents one part sulphuric acid1 one part fusel-oil1 and two parts of acetate of potash1 had a striking smell of fruit1 but it acquired the pleasant flavor of the jargonelle pear only after having been diluted with six times its volume of spirit of wine4 ,upon further inquiry ,i learned that considerable quantities of this oil are manufactured by some distillers1--from fifteen to twenty pounds weekly1--and sold to confectioners1 who employ it chiefly in flavoring pear-drops1 which are nothing else but barley-sugar1 flavored with this oil4 ,i found1 besides the pear-oil1 also an apple-oil1 which1 according to my analysis1 is nothing but valerianate of amyloxide4 ,every one must recollect the insupportable smell of rotten apples which fills the laboratory whilst making valerianic acid4 ,by operating upon this raw distillate produced with diluted potash1 valerianic acid is removed1 and an ether remains behind1 which1 diluted in five or six times its volume of spirits of wine1 is possessed of the most pleasant flavor of apples4 ,the essential oil,l most abundant in the ,exhibition was the pine-apple oil1 which1 as you well know1 is nothing else but the butyrate of ethyloxide4 ,even in this combination1 like in the former1 the pleasant flavor or scent is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol4 ,the butyric ether which is employed in ,germany to flavor bad rum1 is employed in ,england to flavor an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale4 ,for this purpose they generally do not employ pure butyric acid1 but a product obtained by saponification of butter1 and subsequent distillation of the soap with concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol2 which product contains1 besides the butyric ether1 other ethers1 but nevertheless can be used for flavoring spirits4 ,the sample ,i analyzed was purer1 and appeared to have been made with pure butyric ether4 ,decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt1 it gave #j4ddjd gram4 of silver salt #j4bdcg gram4 of silver4 ,the per centage of silver in the butyrate of silver is according to ,theory1 #ee4ch ,experiment1 #ee4cc ,both ,english and ,french exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac-oil and grape-oil1 which are employed to flavor the common sorts of brandy4 ,as these samples were very small1 ,i was prevented from making an accurate analysis4 ,however1 ,i am certain that the grape-oil is a combination of amyl1 diluted with much alcohol2 since1 when acted upon with concentrated sulphuric acid1 and the oil freed from alcohol by washing it with water1 it gave amylsulphuric acid1 which was identified by the analysis of the salt of barytes4 #a4bfij gram4 of amylsulphate of barytes gave #j4ehbe gram4 of sulphate of barytes4 ,this corresponds to #de4hb per cent4 of sulphate of barytes4 ,amylsulphate of barytes1 crystallized with two equivalents of water1 contains1 according to the analysis of ,cahours and ,kekule1 #de4ie per cent4 of sulphate of barytes4 ,it is curious to find here a body1 which1 on account of its noxious smell1 is removed with great care from spirituous liquors1 to be applied under a different form for the purpose of imparting to them a pleasant flavor4 ,i must needs here also mention the artificial oil of bitter almonds4 ,when ,mitscherlich1 in the year #ahcd1 discovered the nitrobenzol1 he would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the purpose of perfumery1 and1 after twenty years1 appear in fine labelled samples at the ,london ,exhibition4 ,it is true that1 even at the time of the discovery of nitrobenzol1 he pointed out the striking similarity of its smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds4 ,however1 at that time1 the only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases and the distillation of benzoic acid1 consequently the enormity of its price banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of bitter almonds4 ,however1 in the year #ahde1 ,i succeeded by means of the anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common coal-tar oil2 and1 in the year #ahdi1 ,c4,b4 ,mansfield proved1 by careful experiments1 that benzol can be won without difficulty in great quantity from coal-tar oil4 ,in his essay1 which contains many interesting details about the practical use of benzol1 he speaks likewise of the possibility of soon obtaining the sweet-scented nitrobenzol in great quantity4 ,the ,exhibition has proved that his observation has not been left unnoticed by the perfumers4 ,among ,french perfumeries we have found1 under the name of artificial oil of bitter almonds1 and under the still more poetical name of essence de mirbane1 several samples of essential oils1 which are no more nor less than nitrobenzol4 ,i was not able to obtain accurate details about the extent of this branch of manufacture1 which seems to be of some importance4 ,in ,london1 this article is manufactured with success4 ,the apparatus employed is that of ,mansfield1 which is very simple4 ,it consists of a large glass worm1 the upper extremity of which divides in two branches or tubes1 which are provided with funnels4 ,through one of these funnels passes a stream of concentrated nitric acid2 the other is destined as a receiver of benzol1 which1 for this purpose1 requires not to be quite pure2 at the angle from where the two tubes branch out1 the two bodies meet together1 and instantly the chemical combination takes place1 which cools sufficiently by passing through the glass worm4 ,the product is afterwards washed with water1 and some diluted solution of carbonate of soda2 it is then ready for use4 ,notwithstanding the great physical similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of bitter almonds1 there is yet a slight difference in smell which can be detected by an experienced nose4,m ,however1 nitrobenzol is very useful in scenting soap1 and might be employed with great advantage by confectioners and cooks1 particularly on account of its safety1 being entirely free from prussic acid4 ,there were1 besides the above1 several other artificial oils2 they all1 however1 were more or less complicated1 and in so small quantities1 that it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature1 and it was doubtful whether they had the same origin as the former4 ,the application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new2 it is probable that the study of all the ethers or ethereal combinations already known1 and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily discovering1 will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications4 ,the capryl-ethers lately discovered by ,bouis are remarkable for their aromatic smells 7the acetate of capryloxide is possessed of the most intense and pleasant smell71 and they promise a large harvest to the manufacturers of perfumes4--,annalen der ,chemie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,correspondence ,,from ,,the ,,journal ,,of ,,the ,,society ,,of ,,arts4,n ,,chemistry ,,and ,,perfumery4 ,,sir1 ,when such periodicals as ,household ,words and the ,family ,herald contain scientific matters1 treated in a manner to popularize science1 all real lovers of philosophy must feel gratified2 a little fiction1 a little metaphor1 is expected1 and is accepted with the good intention with which it is given1 in such popular prints2 but when the ,journal of the ,society of ,arts reprints quotations from such sources1 without modifying or correcting their expressions1 it conveys to its readers a tissue of fiction rather too flimsy to bear a truthful analysis4,o ,in the article on ,chemistry and ,perfumery1 in ,no4 #dg1 you quote that some of the most delicate perfumes are now made by chemical artifice1 and not1 as of old1 by distilling them from flowers4 ,now1 sir1 this statement conveys to the public a very erroneous idea2 because the substances afterwards spoken of are named essences of fruit1 and not essences of flowers1 and the essences of fruits named in your article never are1 and never can be1 used in perfumery4 ,this assertion is based on practical experience4 ,the artificial essences of fruits are ethers3 when poured upon a handkerchief1 and held up to the nose1 they act1 as is well known1 like chloroform4 ,dare a perfumer sell a bottle of such a preparation to an unprotected female8 ,again1 you quote that the drainings of cow-houses are the main source to which the manufacturer applies for the production of his most delicate and admired perfumes4 ,shade of ,munchausen6 must ,i refute this by calling your attention to the fact that in the south of ,france more than #hj1jjj persons are employed1 directly and indirectly1 in the cultivation of flowers1 and in the extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers8 that ,italy cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as extensive as the whole of some ,english counties8 that tracts of flower-farms exist in the ,balkan1 in ,turkey1 more extensive than the whole of ,yorkshire8 ,our own flower-farms at ,mitcham1 in ,surrey1 need not be mentioned in comparison1 although important4 ,these1 sir1 are the main sources of perfumes4 ,there are other sources at ,thibet1 ,tonquin1 and in the ,west ,indies2 but enough has been said1 ,i hope1 to refute the cow-house story4 ,this story is founded on the fact that ,benzoic acid can be obtained from the draining of stables1 and that ,benzoic acid has rather a pleasant odor4 ,some of the largest wholesale perfumers use five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum1 but none use the benzoic acid4 ,the lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared for commercial purposes2 as also the fruit essences4 ,those of your readers interested in what really is used in perfumery1 are referred to the last six numbers of the ,annals of ,pharmacy and ,practical ,chemistry1 article ,perfumery4 ,your obedient servant1 ,,septimus ,,piesse4 ,,chemistry ,,and ,,perfumery4,p ,,sir1 ,the discussion about chemistry and perfumery1 in reality amounts to this3 ,mr4 ,septimus ,piesse confines the term perfumery to such things as ,eau de ,cologne1 c42 perfumed soaps1 groceries1 c41 he does not appear to class as perfumery4 ,now the artificial scents are as yet chiefly used for the latter substances1 which in common language1 and1 ,i should say1 in a perfumer's nomenclature also1 would be included in perfumery4 ,the authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to be found in a little ,french work called1 ,i believe1 ,la ,chimie de l',odorat in which a full description is given of the collection of fresh urine and its application to this purpose4 ,i need scarcely say1 that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous principle4 ,your obedient servant1 ,a ,,perfumer4 ,when benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes1 it is free from the fragrant volatile oil which accompanies it when prepared by sublimation from the resin1 and to which oil the acid of commerce owes its peculiar odor4 ,this fact completely nullifies the above assertion4--,,septimus ,,piesse4 ,,chemistry ,,and ,,perfumery4,q ,sir1 ,if the author of the ,letter on ,chemistry and ,perfumery1 published in ,no4 #ej of your ,journal1 and intended as a reply to mine--though none was needed--which appeared in ,no4 #di1 really be a perfumer1 as his signature implies1 he would know that ,i could not1 though ever so inclined1 confine the term perfumery to various odoriferous substances1 and exclude scented soaps2 because he would be aware that one-third of the returns of every manufacturing perfumer is derived from perfumed soap4 ,i do however emphatically exclude from the term perfumery1 groceries1 c41 the et caetera meaning1 ,i presume1 confectionery1 because perfumery has to do with one of the senses1 ,,smelling1 while groceries1 c41 are distinguishable by another1 ,,taste2 and had not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction1 commerce and manufactures would have defined them3 ,i therefore repeat1 that the artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery1 as stated in ,no4 #dg1 from the quoted authorities4 ,if any man can deny this assertion1 let him now do so1 or forever after hold his peace1 at least upon this subject4 ,the ,journal of the ,society of ,arts is not a medium of mere controversy4 ,if a statement be made in error1 let truth correct it1 which1 if gain-sayed1 it should be done1 not under the veil of an anonymous correspondent1 but with a name to support the assertion4 ,science has to deal with tangible facts and figures1 to the political alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller4 ,i am1 sir1 yours faithfully1 ,,septimus ,,piesse4 #db ,chapel ,street1 ,edgware ,road4 ,if the word flavor had been used by the various authors who have written upon this subject1 in place of the word perfume1 the dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented3 the word perfume1 applied to pear-oil1 pine-apple oil1 c41 implies1 and the general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer1 that these substances are used by perfumers1 who not only do not1 but cannot use them in their trade4 ,but for flavoring nectar1 lozenges1 sweetmeats1 c41 these ethers1 or oils as the writers term them1 are extensively used1 and quite in accordance with assertions of ,hoffman1 ,playfair1 ,fehling1 and ,bastick4 ,however1 the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost anything by this misapplication of a trade term4--,,septimus ,,piesse4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ottos ,,from ,,plants4 ,,quantities ,,of ,,ottos1 ,,otherwise ,,essential ,,oils1 ,,yielded ,,by ,,various ,,plants4 ,pounds ,of otto4 ,orange-peel1 #aj yield about #a oz4 ,dry marjoram herb1 #bj #c oz4 ,fresh #ajj #c oz4 ,peppermint1 #ajj #c to #d oz4 ,dry #be #c to #d oz4 ,origanum1 #be #b to #c oz4 ,thyme1 #bj #a to #a-a_/b oz4 ,calamus1 #be #c to #d oz4 ,anise-seed1 #be #i to #ab oz4 ,caraway1 #be #af oz4 ,cloves1 #a #b-a_/b oz4 ,cinnamon1 #be #c oz4 ,cassia1 #be #c oz4 ,cedar-wood1 #bh #d oz4 ,mace1 #b #c oz4 ,nutmegs1 #b #c to #d oz4 ,fresh balm herb1 #fj #a to #a-a_/b oz4 ,cake of bitter almond1 #ad #a oz4 ,sweet flag root1 #aab #af oz4 ,geranium leaves1 #aab #b oz4 ,lavender flowers1 #aab #cj to #cb oz4 ,myrtle leaves1 #aab #e oz4 ,patchouly herb1 #aab #bh oz4 ,province rose blossom1 #aab #a-a_/b to #b drachms4 ,rhodium-wood1 #aab #c to #d oz4 ,santal-wood1 #aab #cj oz4 ,vitivert or kus-kus-root1 #aab #ae oz4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,weights ,,and ,,measures4 ,,french ,,weights ,,and ,,measures ,,compared ,,with ,,english4 ,imperial ,troy ,kilo- ,lbs4 ,litres4 ,gallons4 ,grammes4 ,grains4 grammes4 ,avoird4 #a1 #j4bbjaj #a1 #ae4dcd #a1 #b4bjdhf #b1 #j4ddjai #b1 #cj4hfh #b1 #d4djiga #c1 #j4ffjbi #c1 #df4cjb #c1 #f4fadeg #d1 #j4hhjci #d1 #fa4gcf #d1 #h4haidc #e1 #a4ajjdh #e1 #gg4agj #e1 #aa4jbdbi #f1 #a4cbjeh #f1 #ib4fjd #f1 #ac4bbiad #g1 #a4edjfh #g1 #ajh4jch #g1 #ae4dcdjj #h1 #a4gfjgg #h1 #abc4dgb #h1 #ag4fchhf #i1 #a4ihjhg #i1 #ach4ijf #i1 #ai4hdcga ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,english ,,weights ,,and ,,measures ,,compared ,,with ,,french4 ,imp4 ,troy ,lbs4 ,kilo- ,gallons4 ,litres4 ,grains4 ,grammes4 ,avoird4 grammes4 #a1 #d4edcdf #a1 #j4jfdgi #a1 #j4deced #b1 #i4jhfib #b1 #j4abieh #b1 #j4ijgji #c1 #ac4fcjch #c1 #j4aidch #c1 #a4cfjfc #d1 #ah4agchd #d1 #j4beiag #d1 #a4hadah #e1 #bb4gagcj #e1 #j4cbcif #e1 #b4bfggb #f1 #bg4bfjgf #f1 #j4chhge #f1 #b4gbabf #g1 #ca4hjdbb #g1 #j4deced #g1 #c4agdha #h1 #cf4cdgfh #h1 #j4eahcd #h1 #c4fbhce #i1 #dj4hiaad #i1 #j4ehcac #i1 #d4jhaij ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,footnotes3 ,a ,brother of the ,author4 ,b ,see ,appendix1 ,benzoic ,acid4 ,c ,see ,incense4 ,d ,the duty on eau de ,cologne is now1 according to the last tariff1 #h;d4 per flacon of #d oz41 or #bjs4 per gallon4 ,e ,simple syrup consists of #c lbs4 of loaf sugar1 boiled for a minute in one pint1 imperial1 of distilled water4 ,f ,the imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers4 ,g ,annals of ,pharmacy1 vol4 ii1 pp4 #afh1 #afi4 ,h ,the deposit is nearly insoluble in water1 is acid and astringent to the taste1 gives an acid reaction with litmus4 ,spirit of wine dissolves out a small portion1 which1 on evaporation1 leaves a thick oleo-resinous substance1 having a rancid smell4 ,ether leaves a pleasant-smelling resin1 somewhat resembling camphor4 ,the remainder is nearly insoluble in liq4 ammoniae1 liq4 potassae1 more soluble in nitric acid1 and well deserves to be further examined4 ,i ,qy4 ,confectionery8 ,j ,qy4 ,confectioners8 ,k ,confectionery4 ,l ,the writer means ether6 ,m ,see ,almond4 ,n ,no4 #di4 ,o ,if our ,correspondent had carefully read the article he so fiercely attacks1 he would have seen that the authorities were ,dr4 ,lyon ,playfair's ,lecture1 and ,professsor ,fehling1 in the ,wurtemberg ,journal of ,industry4--,,ed4 ,p ,no4 #ej4 ,q ,no4 #eb4