,,the ,,coast ,,of ,,labrador1 ,,to ,,ungava ,,bay1 ,,westward ,,of ,,cape ,,chudleigh999999 by the ,canadian ,institute for ,historical ,microreproductions 7http3_/_/www4canadiana4org_/7 includes a map of the region described4 ,see #aedce-;h4htm or #aedce-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ e_/d_/c_/aedce_/aedce-;h_/#aedce-;h4htm7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/dirs_/#a_/ e_/d_/c_/aedce_/aedce-;h4zip7 ,images of the original pages are available through the ,canadian ,institute for ,historical ,microreproductions4 ,see http3_/_/www4canadiana4org_/,,eco_/,item ,record_/#bajjb8;idfde#fbj;f#bi;a#gf;b#d ;fe ,inconsistencies and irregularities in spelling in the original text have been retained4 ,the table of contents was created for this e,book4 ,,journal ,,of ,a ,,voyage ,,from ,,okkak1 ,,on ,,the ,,coast ,,of ,,labrador1 ,,to ,,ungava ,,bay1 ,,westward ,,of ,,cape ,,chudleigh2 ,,undertaken to ,explore the ,coast1 and ,visit the ,,esquimaux in that ,unknown ,region by ,,benjamin ,,kohlmeister and ,,george ,,kmoch ,missionaries of the ,church of the ,unitas ,fratrum or ,united ,brethren ,london3 ,printed by ,w4 ,m',dowall1 ,pemberton ,row1 ,gough ,square1 ,fleet ,street1 for the ,brethren's ,society for the ,furtherance of the ,gospel ,among the ,heathen4 ,and ,sold ,by ,j4 ,le ,febvre1 #b1 ,chapel-,place1 ,nevils-,court1 ,fetter-,lane2 ,l4 ,b4 ,seeley1 #afi1 ,fleet-,street2 ,hazard ,and ,binns1 ,bath2 and ,t4 ,bulgin1 and ,t4 ,lambe1 ,bristol #ahad ,,journal ,,of ,a ,,voyage1 c4 c4 ,,contents ,,introduction #c ,,chapter ,i4 ,outfit4 ,opinions of the ,esquimaux respecting the ,voyage4 ,description of the ,company4 ,departure from ,okkak4 ,arrival at ,nungorome4 #f ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,departure from ,nungorome ,cove4 ,account of ,solomon4 ,drift-ice4 ,cape ,mugford4 ,waterfalls from the ,kaumayok ,mountains4 ,fruitless attempt to get out of the ,ikkerasak1 or ,straits4 #aj ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,quit the ,ikkerasak4 ,account of the ,kaumayok ,mountains1 and of ,kangertluksoak4 ,public ,worship on ,sunday4 ,saeglek and its ,inhabitants described4 ,the ,missionaries visit the ,esquimaux at ,kikkertarsoak4 #ad ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,departure from ,saeglek4 ,fruitless attempt to reach ,nachvak4 ,retreat into ,nullatartok ,inlet4 ,slate ,bay4 ,detention on account of the ,ice4 ,arrive at ,nachvak4 #bj ,,chapter ,v4 ,reception at ,nachvak4 ,description of the bay4 ,the ,esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout4 ,christian deportment of the ,okkak and ,hopedale ,esquimaux4 ,jonas's address to the ,heathen4 ,love of music general among these ,indians4 ,departure from ,nachvak4 ,danger in doubling the ,north ,cape4 ,arrival at ,sangmiyok bay4 #bg ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,pass ,cape ,nennoktok4 ,visit the ,esquimaux families at ,kummaktorvik and ,amitok4 ,description of an ,esquimaux travelling bed4 ,mountains seen at ,ungava4 ,netsek seal described4 ,greenland houses4 ,danger of being shipwrecked near ,kakkeviak4 #cc ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,arrival at ,oppernavik4 ,account of ,uttakiyok4 ,his perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the ,missionaries4 ,islands and bays between ,kakkeviak and ,killinek4 ,danger in the ice at ,ammitok4 ,want of fuel supplied by robbing old graves4 #ci ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,departure from ,oppernavik4 ,pass the ,ikkerasak of ,killinek4 ,whirlpools4 ,the coast takes a southerly direction4 ,meeting with ,esquimaux from the ,ungava country1 who had never seen an ,european4 ,anchor at ,omanek4 ,high tides4 ,drift-wood4 ,double ,cape ,uibvaksoak4 ,distant view of ,akpatok4 #dd ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,chain of black mountains4 ,the ,dragon's dwelling4 ,changes occasioned by rise and fall of the tides1 and dangers attending them4 ,uttakiyok's superstitious customs4 ,singular effect of the tide in the bay of ,ittimnekoktok4 ,arrive at ,kangertlualuksoak bay and river4 ,its situation4 ,transactions there4 #ej ,,chapter ,x4 ,further transactions in ,kangertlualuksoak ,bay4 ,the ,esquimaux women frightened by reports of ,indians4 ,ceremony of taking possession of this new-explored country1 as belonging to the ,king of ,england1 and of naming the river ,george river4 ,leave the bay and proceed to ,arvarvik4 ,whales caught by the ,esquimaux in the shallows4 ,storm at ,kernertut4 #ef ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,doubts expressed by ,jonathan and the other ,esquimaux on the expediency of continuing the voyage4 ,consultations4 ,resolve to proceed4 ,thunder-storm at ,pitsiolak4 ,account of ,indians4 ,esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts4 ,arrival in the river ,koksoak4 #fb ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,sail up the river ,koksoak4 ,transactions in that region4 ,dangerous eddy4 ,meet ,esquimaux4 ,address to them4 ,their joy and eagerness to have ,missionaries1 resident among them4 ,find a suitable situation for a settlement4 ,description of the country4 #gj ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,return to ,okkak4 #gg ,,introduction4 ,for these many years past1 a considerable number of ,esquimaux have been in the annual practice of visiting the three missionary establishments of the ,united ,brethren on the coast of ,labrador1 ,,okkak1 ,,nain1 and ,,hopedale1 chiefly with a view to barter1 or to see those of their friends and acquaintance1 who had become obedient to the gospel1 and lived together in ,christian fellowship1 enjoying the instruction of the ,missionaries4 ,these people came mostly from the north1 and some of them from a great distance4 ,they reported1 that the body of the ,esquimaux nation lived near and beyond ,cape ,chudleigh1 which they call ,killinek1 and having conceived much friendship for the ,missionaries1 never failed to request1 that some of them would come to their country1 and even urged the formation of a new settlement1 considerably to the north of ,okkak4 ,to these repeated and earnest applications the ,missionaries were the more disposed to listen1 as it had been discovered1 not many years after the establishment of the ,mission in #agga1 that that part of the coast on which1 by the encouragement of the ,british government1 the first settlement was made1 was very thinly inhabited1 and that the aim of the ,mission1 to convert the ,esquimaux to ,christianity1 would be better obtained1 if access could be had to the main body of the ,indians1 from which the roving inhabitants appeared to be mere stragglers4 ,circumstances1 however1 prevented more extensive plans from being put in execution2 and the ,missionaries1 having gained the confidence and esteem of the ,esquimaux in their neighbourhood1 remained stationary on that coast1 and1 by degrees1 formed three settlements1 ,,okkak1 to the north1 and ,,hopedale1 to the south of ,,nain1 their first place of residence4 ,in consequence of the abovementioned invitation1 it became a subject of serious consideration1 by what means a more correct idea of the extent and dwelling-places of the ,esquimaux nation might be obtained1 and a general wish was expressed1 that one or more of the ,missionaries would undertake the perilous task of visiting such places as were reported by the ,esquimaux themselves to contain more inhabitants than the southern coast1 but remained unknown to ,european navigators4 ,the ,synodal ,committee1 appointed for the management of the ,missions of the ,united ,brethren1 having given their consent to the measure1 and agreed with ,brother ,kohlmeister1 by occasion of a visit paid by him to his relations and friends in ,germany1 as to the mode of putting it into execution1 he returned to ,labrador in #ahaj1 and prepared to undertake the voyage early in the spring of #ahaa4 ,for several years a correspondence had taken place between the ,missionaries in ,labrador and the ,brethren's ,society for the ,furtherance of the ,gospel1 established in ,london1 relating to the manner in which the voyage should be performed4 ,opinions were various on the subject2 but it was at length determined1 that a steady intelligent ,christian ,esquimaux1 possessing a shallop1 with two masts1 and of sufficient dimensions1 should be appointed to accompany one or two ,missionaries1 for a liberal recompence2 and that the travellers should spend the winter at ,okkak1 to be ready to proceed on the voyage1 without loss of time1 as soon as the state of the ice would permit of it4 ,brother ,kohlmeister proposed1 in this view1 the ,esquimaux ,jonathan1 of ,hopedale1 and the brig employed to convey the annual supply of necessaries to the three settlements1 was ordered to proceed first to ,hopedale1 partly with a view to this negociation4 ,she arrived safe with ,brother ,kohlmeister at this place1 on the #bb;d ,july1 #ahaj4 ,on the same day1 he proposed to ,jonathan the intended expedition1 laid before him the whole plan1 with all its difficulties and advantages1 and found him immediately willing to undertake the voyage1 and to forward its object by every means in his power4 ,this was no small sacrifice on the part of ,jonathan4 ,an ,esquimaux is naturally attached to the place of his birth2 and1 though he spends the summer1 and indeed great part of the year1 necessarily1 and from inclination1 in roving from one place to another in quest of food2 yet in winter he settles1 if possible1 upon his native spot1 where he is esteemed and beloved4 ,this was eminently the case with ,jonathan4 ,he was a man of superior understanding and skill1 possessed of uncommon presence of mind in difficulties and dangers1 and at ,hopedale considered as the principal person1 or chief of his nation4 ,but he was now ready to forsake all1 and to go and reside at ,,okkak1 among strangers1 having no authority or pre-eminence1 and to undertake a voyage of unknown length and peril1 from whence he could not be sure of a safe or speedy return1 before the ice might set in1 and confine him upon an unknown shore1 during the whole of a second winter4 ,there was1 however1 one consideration which outweighed every other in his mind1 and made him1 according to his own declaration1 forget all difficulties and dangers4 ,he hoped that the proposed voyage to visit his countrymen in the north would1 in time1 be a means of their becoming acquainted with the gospel of ,christ1 and partakers of the same blessings which he now enjoyed4 ,this made him willing to accept of the call without any hesitation4 ,nor did he ever1 during the whole voyage1 forsake that generous principle1 by which he was at first influenced1 but his cheerful1 firm1 and faithful conduct proved1 under all circumstances1 most honourable to the character of a true convert to ,christianity4 ,brother ,,kohlmeister being1 after seventeen years residence in ,labrador1 complete master of the ,esquimaux language1 and deservedly beloved and respected both by ,christians and heathens1 and possessing an invincible zeal to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare1 was a man eminently qualified to undertake the commission1 and to conciliate the affections of unknown heathen4 ,he had also previously made himself acquainted with the use of the quadrant1 and with other branches of science1 useful on such an occasion4 ,brother ,,kmoch1 his companion1 joined to other essential qualifications1 great cheerfulness and intrepidity4 ,all the parties having met at ,okkak1 in the autumn of #ahaj1 the winter was partly spent in preparations for the intended expedition1 and ,jonathan's boat put into the best possible state of repair4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,outfit4 ,opinions of the ,esquimaux respecting the ,voyage4 ,description of the ,company4 ,departure from ,okkak4 ,arrival at ,nungorome4 ,june #af1 #ahaa4--,the ice began to loosen in the bay of ,,okkak1 and to drive out to sea4 ,on the #agth1 the bay was quite cleared of it2 but on the #ahth1 it returned1 and seemed to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we intended4 ,on the #aith1 however1 it left us entirely4 #bjth4 ,we were employed in hauling the boat to the edge of the water1 and being floated by the tide1 she came to anchor at six1 ,p4,m4 ,she had been purchased by ,jonathan1 at ,chateau-bay1 and was about #de feet long1 twelve broad1 and five deep1 with two masts4 ,we had furnished her with a complete deck1 and divided her into three parts4 ,the centre was our own cabin1 into which all our baggage was stowed3 the two other divisions were occupied by the ,esquimaux4 ,a small boat1 brought from ,lewis1 was taken in tow4 #bast4 ,we began to ship our provision and baggage3 viz4 six cwt4 of ship's biscuit1 sixteen bushels of pease1 one cwt4 of salt pork and best beef1 7of which but a small portion was consumed1 as we were generally well supplied with fresh provisions1 procured by shooting71 a firkin of butter1 half cwt4 of captain's biscuit1 one cwt4 of flour1 two small barrels of gunpowder1 one cwt4 of large and small shot1 half cwt4 of tobacco1 two eighteen-gallon barrels of ale1 a few bottles of brandy1 eighteen pounds of coffee1 which was all consumed1 coffee and biscuits being our usual repast2 a case containing knives1 wire1 nails1 c4 for barter1 if necessary2 kettles and other utensils4 ,besides that every man had his fowling-piece1 we had four muskets in reserve4 ,after bringing all on board1 we had just room enough to sleep in our cabin4 #bb;d1 was spent in conferring with our brethren1 on various subjects relating to the voyage4 #bc;d4 ,all the ,esquimaux met at the chapel1 and in the most affectionate manner1 and with many tears1 bid us and our company farewell4 ,they were the more affected with grief on this occasion1 as the greatest part of our own ,esquimaux thought the voyage impracticable1 and expected that we should all perish in doubling ,cape ,chudleigh1 7,killinek7 on account of the violence of the currents1 setting round between the cape1 and the many rocks and islands which stretch from it towards the north4 ,reports had likewise been circulated of the hostile disposition of the ,esquimaux in the ,ungava bay2 and it was boldly asserted1 that if we even got there alive1 we should never return4 ,an old conjuror1 7,angekok71 ,atsugarsuk1 had been particularly active in spreading these reports4 ,we cannot deny but that they occasioned some apprehension in our own minds1 but being fully determined to venture in the name of ,god1 and trusting in ,his protection1 we were thankful that they failed to produce the intended effect on ,jonathan1 our guide1 and on the other ,esquimaux1 who were to go with us1 and who all remained firm4 ,when ,jonathan was told that the ,ungava ,esquimaux would kill him1 he generally answered3 ,well1 we will try1 and shall know better when we get there3 and once1 conversing with us on the subject1 expressed himself thus3 ,when ,i hear people talking about the danger of being killed1 ,i think3 ,jesus went to death out of love to us1 what great matter would it be1 if we were to be put to death in ,his service1 should that be ,his good pleasure concerning us4 #bdth4 ,having commended ourselves in prayer to the grace and protecting care of ,god our ,saviour1 and to the kind remembrance of our dear fellow missionaries1 we set sail at two ,p4,m4 ,our company consisted of four ,esquimaux families3 #a4 ,jonathan1 and his wife ,sybilla1 both between fifty and sixty years old4 ,he was esteemed one of the most skilful commanders on the whole coast of ,labrador1 and for many years has shown himself both able and willing to serve the missionaries in a variety of ways4 ,the boat was his own property1 and we considered him as the captain of the expedition4 #b4 ,jonas1 ,jonathan's son1 and his wife ,agnes1 about thirty years of age1 both intelligent1 clever ,esquimaux2 they had their five children with them2 ,sophia1 twelve years old1 ,susanna1 ,jonathan1 ,thamar1 and ,sybilla1 the youngest but half a year old4 #c4 ,paul1 and his wife ,mary1 very agreeable1 sensible people1 about twenty years of age4 ,paul is ,jonathan's cousin1 and a man of a very warm temper4 ,in activity and skill1 he was next to ,jonathan4 #d4 ,david1 and his mother ,rachel1 the first a hopeful young man of about twenty1 and the latter a good-natured old woman1 who had the care of our clothes and linen1 and kept them clean and in good order4 ,besides these four families1 we took with us a boy1 ,okkiksuk1 an orphan1 about sixteen1 whom ,jonathan had adopted1 and who promised to reward the kindness of his guardian by his good behaviour4 ,he was always ready to render us every service in his power4 ,we were attended on the voyage by a skin-boat 7or woman's boat7 in which were ,thukkekina and his wife1 and their adopted child ,mammak1 a boy twelve years old4 ,their age is about forty4 ,the skin-boat was intended as a refuge1 in case of any accident happening to our own boat1 and was useful in landing1 as we never brought the large boat close in shore4 ,the first four families belong to ,hopedale1 ,thukkekina and his wife to ,okkak4 ,they considered it as a great favour conferred on them to be permitted to accompany us4 ,jonas and his family occupied the after-part1 and the rest the fore-part of the boat4 ,the wind was moderate1 and due west4 ,we lost sight of our habitations in about half an hour1 behind the ,n4,e4 point of the island ,okkak1 called ,sungolik4 ,at three1 passed ,cape ,uivak1 a cape on the continent1 forming a moderately high headland1 and the nearest place to ,okkak1 where ,esquimaux spend the winter4 ,two or three winter-houses were standing4 ,the wind failing1 we cast off the skin-boat1 which rowed merrily a-head4 ,before us1 between the islands to the east and the continent1 we saw much drift-ice1 and it required attention to avoid the large shoals1 the wind coming round to the ,n4,w4 ,we cast anchor at ,,nungorome1 a cove about ten ,english miles from ,okkak1 where we found several of our ,esquimaux1 who had here their summer-station4 ,several had come from ,naujasiorvik and other places1 on purpose to meet us1 and once more to express their affection and best wishes for our safe voyage and return4 ,late in the evening1 we met on a green spot1 where ,brother ,kohlmeister delivered a short discourse and prayer1 after which we retired to sleep on board the boat4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,departure from ,nungorome ,cove4 ,account of ,solomon4 ,drift-ice4 ,cape ,mugford4 ,waterfalls from the ,kaumayok ,mountains4 ,fruitless attempt to get out of the ,ikkerasak1 or ,straits4 ,nungorome is a cove on the south side of the ,island ,pacharvik4 ,between this island the main land is a narrow strait1 so shallow that no whales can pass4 ,the ,esquimaux stretch their nets across1 to catch seals1 seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea4 ,they can only be taken in the night1 and the greater part of those which frequent this coast are of the ,kairolik kind1 a middle-sized animal1 and of the ,ugsuk1 the largest species of the seal tribe1 weighing sometimes from five to six cwt4 ,the ,esquimaux belonging to our congregation1 who were at present stationed here1 in tents1 were ,moses1 ,samuel1 ,thomas1 ,isaac1 ,bammiuk1 and their families4 ,solomon1 who has left our communion1 was also here4 ,he had formerly been a communicant member of ,okkak congregation1 but could not resist the temptation of going to the north to feast with the heathen ,esquimaux1 whenever they had caught a live1 or found a dead whale4 ,on such occasions he was seduced to commit many irregularities and sins1 but always returned to us with a show of great contrition and repentance4 ,after many relapses1 he was informed1 that this would do no longer1 but that if he went again to these heathenish feasts1 he would be excluded4 ,he is a sensible1 well-disposed man1 and perceived the justice of the sentence2 but his love of that species of amusement overcame all his good resolutions4 ,he not only went again1 but took also another wife2 a step which1 of course1 excluded him from our fellowship4 ,yet he is very desirous that his children may receive a ,christian education1 and remain faithful to the precepts of the gospel4 #beth4 ,brother ,kmoch rose at half past one in the morning1 and suffering the rest to sleep on1 got breakfast ready2 he then fired his piece1 by which ,brother ,kohlmeister and all the ,esquimaux1 young and old1 were suddenly roused from their slumbers4 ,not one1 however1 regretted the unexpected interruption to their pleasant dreams1 on beholding the sea quite free from ice1 with a fine morning and fair wind2 but after yawning1 stretching1 and shaking themselves as usual1 the ,esquimaux with great good humour got ready1 and we set sail at half past three4 ,passed ,pacharvik ,island at four4 ,bammiuk and ,solomon accompanied us as far as the ,north ,ikkerasak 7the ,esquimaux name for a strait7 between ,cape ,mugford ,island1 in #eh deg4 ,n4 latitude1 and the mountains of ,kaumayok4 ,their being in company retarded our progress1 but in the sequel proved no disadvantage4 ,about nine1 we entered the straits1 and perceiving at a distance much drift-ice a-head1 cast anchor1 and ,brother ,kmoch and ,jonas landed on ,cape ,mugford ,island4 ,an ,esquimaux1 called ,niakungetok1 accompanied them to the top of an eminence1 from whence the outer opening of the ,ikkerasak was seen4 ,they perceived the ice driving into it from the sea in such quantities as to threaten to close it up4 ,cape ,mugford is an high island1 extending far into the ocean1 and the northern land-mark in steering for ,okkak1 ,kiglapeit promontory bearing south1 and the ,saddle-island appearing right before the entrance of the bay4 ,on their return to the boat1 the wind veered to the north1 and we steered for a dwelling-place of the ,esquimaux1 about twenty miles from ,okkak1 called ,ukkuararsuk4 ,to our great joy the ice began now to drive out again to sea1 and we resolved to go with it4 ,a gentle ,s4,w4 wind brought us to the place1 where we had before anchored1 but we were now beset with large fields of ice1 among which we tacked1 till we had nearly cleared the straits1 when the great quantity of surrounding ice1 pressing upon us1 prevented our making further attempts1 and we1 were compelled to work our way back with oars and boat-hooks4 ,on ,cape ,mugford island we now discovered more ,esquimaux1 who by signs directed our course towards a convenient harbour1 near their dwellings1 which we reached in safety4 ,the ,esquimaux pitched their tents on shore1 but we slept on board4 ,the situation of this place is remarkably beautiful4 ,the strait is about an ,english mile broad1 and four or five in length4 ,both shores are lined with precipitous rocks1 which in many places rise to a tremendous height1 particularly on the ,kaumayok side1 from whence several waterfalls rush into the sea1 with a roar1 which quite fills the air4 ,the singular appearance of these cataracts is greatly increased when illuminated by the rising sun1 the spray1 exhibiting the most beautiful prismatic colours4 ,below them huge masses of ice are formed1 which seem to lean against the sides of the rocks1 and to be continually increasing during the winter1 but when melted by the power of a summer's sun1 and disengaged by their weight1 are carried off by the tides1 and help to form floating ice-mountains4 ,the coast lies ,s4,w4 by ,n4,e4 #bfth4 ,being detained here by the state of the ice1 and the weather fine and warm1 ,brother ,kmoch and ,ogiksuk rowed across the straits to the nearest great cataract1 and were able1 notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent1 to get pretty close to it4 ,it falls fifty or sixty feet perpendicular1 and the noise is terrible4 ,the spray ascending from it1 like the steam of a huge cauldron1 wetted the travellers completely4 ,they amused themselves some time by rolling large stones into the fall1 which by its force were carried along towards the sea1 down the sloping torrent below4 ,our people meanwhile caught three seals1 and made a hearty meal1 of which we also partook1 hunger1 on this occasion1 overcoming our dislike to seal's flesh4 ,a sallad of scurvy-grass was made for supper4 #bgth4 ,we left this harbour about four ,a4,m4 with a favourable wind at ,west1 but as it soon died away1 we took to our oars1 and reached the north point of ,kaumayok1 at the northern extremity of the strait4 ,by an observation taken by ,brother ,kohlmeister1 this point is situated in #eg deg4 #ei' ,n4 latitude4 ,though calm1 there was a great swell from the sea1 and the rolling of the boat affected our brave captain not a little1 to the diversion of the other ,esquimaux4 ,about two ,p4,m4 the wind shifted to the ,n4,w4 ,by tacking we got to ,kupperlik1 about the middle of ,kaumayok1 but having the skin-boat in tow1 could not weather the point1 and were at length obliged to return to our former anchorage in the strait4 #bhth4 ,the wind being ,north we could not proceed4 ,we therefore ascended the mountain of ,cape ,mugford4 ,it is a barren rock1 though here and there a solitary plant or a tuft of moss clings to its steep sides1 and is difficult of access4 ,the numerous waterfalls on the ,kaumayok1 which still rose above us1 were full in view1 and we now discovered several small lakes which supply them4 ,some of them fall from a great height perpendicularly into the sea4 ,we could here discern the island of ,okkak1 to the ,s4,w4 to the ,east1 the boundless ocean1 and to the ,n4,e4 three high1 barren1 and steep islands1 called ,nennoktuts by the ,esquimaux1 7,white mountains47 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,quit the ,ikkerasak4 ,account of the ,kaumayok ,mountains1 and of ,kangertluksoak4 ,public ,worship on ,sunday4 ,saeglek and its ,inhabitants described4 ,the ,missionaries visit the ,esquimaux at ,kikkertarsoak4 ,june #bith4--,we rose soon after two o'clock1 and rowed out of the ,ikkerasak1 with a fair wind4 ,the sea was perfectly calm and smooth4 ,brother ,kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of ,kaumayok1 sometimes going on shore1 while the large boat was making but little way1 keeping out at some distance1 to avoid the rocks4 ,the outline of this chain of mountains exhibits the most fanciful figures4 ,at various points1 the rocks descend abruptly into the sea1 presenting horrid precipices4 ,the strand is covered with a black sand4 ,at the height of about fifty feet from the sea1 the rocks have veins of red1 yellow1 and green stone1 running horizontally and parallel2 and sometimes in an undulated form4 ,above these1 they present the appearance of a magnificent colonade1 or rather of buttresses1 supporting a gothic building1 varying in height and thickness1 and here and there intersected by wide and deep chasms and glens1 running far inland between the mountains4 ,loose stones above1 have in some places the appearance of statues1 and the superior region exhibits all kind of grotesque shapes4 ,it is by far the most singular and picturesque chain of mountains on this coast4 ,to the highest part of it we gave the name of ,st4 ,pauls1 as it is not unlike that cathedral when viewed at a distance1 with its dome and two towers4 ,before we left the ,kaumayok1 ,brother ,kohlmeister landed1 and found the beach covered with blocks of stone1 in colour white and grey1 like statuary marble1 but very hard4 ,we now steered for ,kangertluksoak1 a winter-station of the ,esquimaux1 where several of our people had pitched their tents4 ,at noon1 we were off an island1 called ,eingosiarsuk1 7the ,little ,cup71 opposite the ,ittiplek1 7a flat piece of ground joining two headlands7 over which the northern ,esquimaux pass in sledges to ,okkak1 round ,kaumayok4 ,farther towards the ,n4,w4 lies ,tuppertalik1 a high ridge of mountains1 which1 from its appearance1 we called the ,table mountain1 having nearly the shape of the mountain so called at the ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,to the north lies ,nellekartok1 the outermost island on leaving the ,ikkerasak1 and the first of the ,kangertluksoak islands4 ,behind ,tuppertalik1 a bay opens called ,nappartok 7a wood71 a winter-habitation1 with a little wood higher up the country1 about eight or ten hours drive from ,okkak4 ,a good harbour for large vessels is said to be here1 called ,umiakovitannak1 7,broad boat-harbour74 ,before the entrance to ,nappartok1 lies an island1 ,naujartsit 7the ,little ,sea-gull island74 ,seven or eight miles1 north of ,nappertok1 a long flat point runs out1 terminated by a small island4 ,on approaching towards ,kangertluksoak1 a long island runs parallel with the coast called ,illuektulik1 7a burial-place71 between which and the main land is a strait1 affording good shelter for boats4 ,into this ,jonathan intended to run1 but the wind being favourable1 we kept on our course1 and passed two islands1 ,kingmiktok1 7,dog island71 and farther north1 ,kikkertarsoak a great island which defends the entrance into the harbour of ,kangertluksoak1 from the sea4 ,at ten ,p4,m4 we came to an anchor in the harbour1 and were received by our ,esquimaux1 of whom several families were stationed here1 as well as by the other inhabitants1 with demonstrations of great joy4 ,both the heathen who kept on the right side of the great bay1 and our own ,christian ,esquimaux1 on the left1 fired numberless shots to welcome us4 ,several boats were here from ,kittinek and ,nachvak bound to ,okkak4 ,kangertluksoak lies about sixty miles north of ,okkak1 is an agreeable place1 and has a good strand1 and safe anchorage4 #cjth4 ,being ,sunday1 the ,missionaries went on shore1 and visited all the ,christian families1 by whom they were received with the most lively expressions of affection and gratitude4 ,many strangers from the opposite coast had joined them1 and they all seated themselves in a large circle on the grass4 ,nikupsuk's wife1 ,louisa1 who had long ago forsaken the believers1 was here1 and said1 with much apparent contrition1 that she was unworthy to be numbered with them4 ,she then seated herself at a little distance from the rest4 ,the number of the congregation1 including our boat's company1 amounted to about fifty4 ,brother ,kohlmeister first addressed them1 by greeting them from their brethren at ,okkak1 and expressing our joy at finding them well in health1 and our hopes1 that they were all walking worthy of their ,christian profession1 as a good example to their heathen neighbours4 ,then the ,litany was read1 and a spirit of true devotion pervaded the whole assembly4 ,our very hearts rejoiced in this place1 which had but lately been a den of murderers1 dedicated1 as it were1 by the angekoks1 or sorcerers1 to the service of the devil1 to hear the cheerful voices of converted heathen1 most melodiously sounding forth the praises of ,god1 and giving glory to the name of ,jesus their ,redeemer4 ,peace1 and cheerful countenances dwelt in the tents of the believing ,esquimaux4 ,our people had caught a large white-fish1 and pressed us much to be their guests1 which we should have accepted of with pleasure1 but we thought it prudent to avail ourselves of the favourable wind and weather1 to proceed4 ,instead1 therefore1 of dining with them1 we presented to each tent a quart of pease1 which is considered by the ,esquimaux as a great luxury1 and was received with unbounded thankfulness4 ,about noon we set sail1 with a brisk wind at ,s4,e4 for ,saeglek4 ,the coast presents here1 moderately high1 barren mountains1 without bays or islands4 ,the wind becoming more violent1 the rope1 by which we kept the skin-boat in tow1 suddenly snapt1 and set her adrift4 ,she was frequently hid from our view by the height of the waves1 but we were in no apprehension about her1 as these kind of boats are much safer in a high sea1 than a ,european one4 ,at seven ,p4,m4 we arrived at ,saeglek1 and were saluted by the firing of muskets and bonfires on the hills4 ,the ,esquimaux have their dwellings on a small flat island1 between two of larger size1 but the strand is bad1 and full of sharp shingles4 ,there are about five or six winter-houses at ,saeglek1 containing each about two or three families4 ,july #ast4 ,early1 two ,esquimaux men1 ,joas and ,uiverunna1 came in their kayaks to pay us a visit4 ,they1 with their families1 inhabited some tents we had seen yesterday4 ,brother ,kohlmeister spoke seriously to them on the necessity of conversion1 especially to ,joas1 who had ,christian parents1 and as a child1 was baptized at ,okkak4 ,he reminded him of his having been devoted to ,jesus from his birth2 that he therefore ought not to belong to the unbelievers1 but to ,him who had created and redeemed him2 and that the greatest of all the sins he now committed1 was his persisting in his determination not to return4 ,he seemed to listen with some humility to the loving and earnest reproof and exhortations of the ,missionary1 but at last excused himself by laying the blame upon his mother1 who kept him back1 adding1 that he still intended to be converted4 ,our people had meanwhile made a fire1 and put the pot on to boil pease2 but the wind changing1 ,jonathan determined immediately to proceed4 ,the pease had just begun to swell1 and as the two ,esquimaux had presented us with some fresh meat1 they had been asked to partake of our meal2 but finding themselves thus disappointed1 they fell to1 and having greedily devoured a quantity of the half-boiled pease1 and filled their gloves with the rest1 they took leave1 and set sail about #aa1 ,a4,m4 ,hearing from some ,esquimaux who made towards us in their kayaks1 that the ,saeglek people were all on the north side of the island of ,kikkertarsoak1 we proceeded thither1 and having doubled the point1 saw seven tents full of people4 ,two of them contained families from ,killinek4 ,but the violence of the wind was such1 that we could not stay in this unsheltered place with safety4 ,we therefore worked our way1 with the help of the ,esquimaux1 round another point1 into a roadstead1 rather more sheltered than the former1 though open to the sea4 ,a little tobacco is the reward expected and given for such assistance4 ,the beach is composed of numberless black pebbles1 polished by the sea1 and each about the size of an hen's egg4 ,brother ,kohlmeister immediately landed1 and visited the ,esquimaux in their tents4 ,many heathen were at this place1 to whom he preached the gospel1 and invited them to believe in ,jesus1 as the ,saviour of men1 who would deliver them from the love1 power1 and curse of sin1 having shed ,his blood1 and died on the cross1 to redeem their souls4 ,he was heard with great attention4 ,a venerable old man1 with hair as white as wool1 particularly attracted our notice4 ,he called ,brother ,kohlmeister by name1 took hold of both his hands1 and begged him to sit down by him4 ,brother ,kohlmeister inquired1 whether he knew him4 ,the old man replied3 ,thou art ,benjamin1 often have ,i heard thy name at ,okkak4 ,i therefore rejoice to see thee4 ,he seemed quite at a loss1 what way to express his affection2 and at length delivered a strap of seals'-leather to ,mr4 ,kohlmeister1 with these words3 ,i am poor1 and have nothing else to give thee1 yet ,i wish to give thee some token of my love4 ,brother ,kohlmeister accepted of his present1 and inwardly cried to the ,lord1 to show mercy to this poor ignorant heathen4 ,you are old1 said he1 and have not much more time to live in this world1 will you not turn to that ,jesus1 who has died for your sins also8 ,it is not ,his desire that you should perish1 and be lost in everlasting darkness1 but that you should live with ,him in the place of light and immortal bliss4 ,the old man replied3 ,what shall ,i do8 thy words are very pleasant1 and ,i would fain hear much more of ,jesus4 ,i do not wish to be lost in the place of darkness4 ,brother ,kohlmeister answered1 that if he sincerely wished to be saved1 and was troubled on account of his sinful life he should believe in1 and call on the name of ,jesus1 who would certainly hear and reveal ,himself unto him4 ,many people were present in the tent1 who behaved with great decency1 and whom ,brother ,kohlmeister earnestly addressed on the necessity of conversion4 ,he wished to prolong the conversation especially with the old man1 who promised1 that he would never forget the words spoken to him1 but it was growing late1 and we returned to our cabin4 ,the poor old man having sore legs1 some medicine was left for him4 ,the passage from ,kangertluksoak to ,saeglek is about twenty ,english miles4 ,saeglek is a considerable promontory1 open to the south4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,departure from ,saeglek4 ,fruitless attempt to reach ,nachvak4 ,retreat into ,nullatartok ,inlet4 ,slate ,bay4 ,detention on account of the ,ice4 ,arrive at ,nachvak4 ,july #b;d4--,at one ,a4,m4 we set sail1 steering for ,nachvak1 a distance of about thirty miles4 ,here a chain of mountains runs north and south1 nearly parallel with the coast4 ,the coast itself is of moderate height1 but very steep1 and not being defended by any island1 the approach to it as a lee-shore1 is very dangerous4 ,it runs generally in a pretty strait line about forty miles1 when a wide bay opens1 in which lies1 towards the north1 an island called ,karngalersiorvik1 where there is said to be a good harbour for boats4 ,the rocks1 of which the mountains are composed1 are of a white grey colour1 streaked almost perpendicularly with veins of black stone1 about two feet broad4 ,the intermediate strata may be about eight times as broad4 ,we had hoped to reach ,nachvak in the morning1 by continuing our course through the following night1 though the wind was weak and variable1 but in the evening we got into drift-ice3 yet as the shoals were not close together1 we worked our way through them2 and stood on with the little wind we had at ,s4,e4 #c;d4 ,at dawn of day1 and being still four miles distant from ,nachvak1 we perceived both in the open sea1 and all along the shore1 that our passage was completely occupied with floating ice1 which drove towards us1 and forced us back4 ,we then endeavoured to find shelter in a bay bounded by high mountains1 but found none1 the wind driving the ice after us into it1 and soon filling it4 ,jonathan frequently cried out with a plaintive voice3 ,alas1 alas1 we shall soon be without a boat6 ,we now hastened to the opposite shore to find some cove or inlet1 but getting more and more entangled among the ice1 were at last obliged1 some to land1 and haul the boat with ropes round the points1 and others with boat-hooks and spars1 to keep her off the rocks4 ,two or three times she stuck fast on sunken rocks1 but by ,god's mercy always got off again without damage4 ,at length we discovered three narrow inlets1 the middlemost forming a bay1 being the estuary of a river1 which runs ,w4,s4,w4 about eight or ten miles up the country1 and is called ,nullatartok4 ,into this we pushed1 when shortly after our entrance1 the ice entirely filled up the passage1 and we were compelled to retreat to the uppermost part1 choosing the shallowest possible spot to anchor in4 ,the bay itself is about two miles in breadth1 and only in the middle deep enough to admit the larger fields of drift ice to float into it4 ,the strand is broad1 and slopes off gently4 ,it is covered with large tables of slate4 ,the mountains on each side are high1 and seem to consist of ferruginous slate1 the lamina or plates of which are of such immense size1 that they might serve for entire walls4 ,towards the sea1 there exudes from these rocks1 a yellowish white substance1 which has a strong sulphureous smell4 ,it was so powerful1 that if a drop fell on a piece of tinned iron1 it removed the tin in a few minutes4 ,the vallies in the neighbourhood were green and full of flowers4 ,not far from the spot where we had pitched our tents1 7which rested upon a carpet of potentilla aurea1 in full bloom1 bringing to our minds the ,european meadows1 full of butter-cups71 the river1 which is of considerable breadth1 falls into the bay4 ,it abounds with fine salmon-trout4 ,farther to the westward1 two other rivers flow into it1 one of which is much broader than the other1 and has a large cataract at some distance from its mouth4 ,the upper parts of the mountains are covered partly with moss1 and partly with low brush-wood1 birch1 and alder1 and many berry-bearing shrubs and plants1 but no high trees4 ,we found here both arnica and colts-foot in great plenty4 ,brother ,kohlmeister gathered and dried a quantity of each1 as they are used in medical cases1 and the former cannot be procured from ,england4 ,the slate is extremely shivery1 and is found in slabs1 either lying or standing upright from four to eight feet square1 most easily splitting into thin plates4 ,ascending the mountain1 they are soon dislodged1 by the tread of a man's foot1 and glide down towards the beach with a rattling1 tinkling noise4 ,at low water1 we noticed a bed of stone resembling cast iron1 of a reddish hue1 and polished by the friction of the water4 ,after supping on salmon-trout1 caught in the first-mentioned river1 we retired to rest2 but had some fears even here for the safety of our boat1 the ice pushing in towards us1 and our people being employed day and night in warding off the large shoals with their boat-hooks4 #dth4 ,the weather being fair1 ,brother ,kmoch ascended to the top of the highest part of the mountain near us1 from whence he could see nothing but drift-ice1 powerfully in motion towards the bay4 ,four of our ,esquimaux went up the country to hunt reindeer2 saw eight head and two fawns2 but got none4 ,perceiving that our abode in this place might be of some duration1 we for the first time pitched our tents on shore4 ,our morning and evening devotion was attended by the whole party2 and on ,sundays we read the ,litany1 and conducted the service in the usual way1 which proved to us and our ,esquimaux of great comfort and encouragement in all difficulties4 ,we were detained here1 by the ice1 from the #c;d to the #aeth1 and our faith and patience were frequently put to the trial4 ,meanwhile we found much pleasure in walking up the declivities of the hills1 and into the fine green and flowery vallies around us4 #eth4 ,we went up the western extremity of the bay1 but found nothing worth notice4 ,here the rocks appeared to be of a species of freestone4 #fth4 ,in the evening we met in ,jonathan's tent4 ,brother ,kohlmeister addressed the company1 and reminded them1 that to-day the holy communion would be celebrated in our congregations1 which we could not do in this place1 under present circumstances4 ,then kneeling down1 he offered up a fervent prayer1 entreating the ,lord not to forget us in this wilderness1 but to give us to feel ,his all-reviving presence1 and to feed our hungry and thirsty souls1 out of the fulness of ,his grace4 ,a comfortable sense of ,his love and peace filled all our hearts on this occasion4 ,in the evening1 ,paul began to read out of the ,harmony of the four ,evangelists1 which we shall continue as often as circumstances will admit of it4 ,jonathan and ,jonas generally conduct the daily morning and evening worship4 #gth4 ,we were so hard pressed by the ice driving towards us1 that we were obliged in part to unload the boat1 to be able to bring it into a safer situation in shallow water2 and took our turns1 three relieving three1 to watch and guard off the larger shoals with boat-hooks1 by day and night4 ,we were glad to have reached a place1 sheltered on all sides from the wind4 #hth4 ,our people went out to look for reindeer1 and no prospect of our proceeding to sea appearing1 they resolved to stay out all night4 #ith4 ,jonas returned and reported1 that they had seen reindeer1 but were not able to shoot any4 ,paul and ,thukkekina went to-day to the western mountains1 and staid over night4 #ajth4 ,brother ,kmoch went to the westward to look for birds4 ,he saw a large flight of sea-fowl1 but they were extremely shy1 and would not permit him to get near them4 ,from the hills around us1 we perceived that the entrance into the bay was completely blocked up with ice2 and towards the sea1 nothing but one continued field of ice appeared4 ,we sighed and prayed to the ,lord to help us in this time of need4 ,jonas went out in his kayak1 and shot an ugsuk1 not far from our tent4 ,towards evening1 we saw a fire made by our reindeer-hunters1 at the western extremity of the bay1 and they fired their pieces to give us notice1 that they had got some game1 and that we should fetch it with the small boat4 ,okkiksuk therefore went1 and found them completely overcome with fatigue1 having dragged their game1 across the mountains for a considerable distance4 ,the ,esquimaux are indeed able to carry burdens up and down hill1 under which most ,europeans would sink1 but when they kill a deer far inland1 it is hard-earned food1 by the trouble of carrying it home4 ,paul had shot two reindeer1 of which we received a portion4 ,brother ,kohlmeister had been on the other side of the bay1 and returned with a large parcel of plants and flowers1 the examination of which afforded him much amusement4 ,the ,esquimaux now boiled a large kettle full of seal's flesh1 of which we were invited to partake4 ,this we did1 and thought it a very palatable mess1 particularly as we had tasted no fresh meat since we had left the ,north ,ikkerasak4 ,the prejudice of the ,europeans against seal's flesh1 consists mostly in imagination4 ,the dirty kettle in which the ,esquimaux boil it1 is indeed not calculated to excite an appetite1 but the meat1 when eaten fresh1 tastes much like beef2 when cold1 it acquires an oily taste2 nor durst a person1 not accustomed to it from his childhood1 make a practice of eating it1 as it is of a very heating nature1 and would soon bring on serious disorders4 ,it generally prevents sleep1 if eaten at supper4 #abth4 ,the wind became ,west1 and cleared the bay of the ice4 ,brother ,kmoch and ,jonathan went to the opposite shore and found winter-houses1 one of which had been inhabited last winter2 two others were in ruins4 ,they climbed the highest eminence towards ,nachvak1 but saw nothing but drift-ice1 covering the sea1 with but few spots of open water1 to the north4 #acth4 ,it blew hard from the ,west4 ,david and ,okkiksuk crossed the bay to explore the state of the ice from the hills4 ,in the evening they returned with intelligence1 that the sea was cleared of ice to the northward4 ,david had caught a netsek1 7a small species of seal71 and we had taken a good draught of trout in the net before our tent4 #adth4 ,jonathan roused us at four in the morning1 the wind being in our favour1 and we immediately made preparations to depart4 ,after breakfast1 as we were praying the ,litany1 a sudden storm arose4 ,we were assembled in ,jonathan's tent1 and the stones and pegs1 with which it had been fastened down to the ground1 being already removed1 the tent-skins were soon blown about our heads by the violence of the wind1 and we were now obliged patiently to wait till the storm abated4 ,in the midst of our deliberations1 accompanied with expressions of our disappointment1 ,thukkekina gravely observed1 that we might very likely get away this summer1 and need not be dismayed4 ,towards evening1 it fell calm1 and the musquitoes teazed us unmercifully4 ,we supped on fresh salmon1 filled our tents with smoke1 to keep off our winged tormentors1 shut ourselves in1 and forgot our grievances and ,thukkekina's consolations in sound sleep4 #aeth4 ,in the morning at three o'clock1 we took a final leave of ,nullatartok bay1 and got under way with a favourable1 though rather boisterous wind at ,s4,w4 having been detained here for twelve days by the ice4 ,after about an hour's sail1 we were near the entrance of the inlet1 when a sudden gust from the mountains carried away our after-top-mast1 with sail and tackle4 ,it fell with great noise on the deck1 and into the sea4 ,by ,god's mercy no one was hurt1 and we were more particularly thankful1 that of the five children on board1 none were just then on deck4 ,it once happened1 that the main-yard fell down1 and but narrowly missed striking two children1 who with a third were sitting and playing together4 ,they must inevitably have lost their lives1 had it fallen upon them4 ,we praised ,god for their preservation during the whole voyage4 ,by the above-mentioned disaster1 we were obliged to run into a small cove1 where we repaired the mast with all speed1 and proceeded with a gentle wind towards ,nachvak4 ,a calm ensued1 and as there is no anchorage between ,nullatartok and ,nachvak1 we rowed all night1 and felt the advantage of the great length of days1 at this season of the year4 #afth4 ,the view we had of the magnificent mountains of ,nachvak1 especially about sun-rise1 afforded us and our ,esquimaux great gratification4 ,their south-east extremity much resembles ,saddle island near ,okkak1 being high1 steep1 and of singular shape4 ,these mountains in general are not unlike those of ,kaumayok for picturesque outline4 ,in one place1 tremendous precipices form a vast amphitheatre1 surmounted by a ledge of green sod1 which seemed to be the resort of an immense number of sea-gulls and other fowls1 never interrupted by the intrusion of man4 ,they flew with loud screams backwards and forwards over our heads1 as if to warn off such unwelcome visitors4 ,in another place1 a narrow chasm opens into the mountain1 widening into a lagoon1 the surrounding rocks resembling the ruins of a large ,gothic building1 with the green ocean for its pavement1 and the sky for its dome4 ,the weather being fine1 and the sun cheering us with his bright rays1 after a cold and sleepless night1 we seemed to acquire new vigour1 by the contemplation of the grand features of nature around us4 ,we now perceived some ,esquimaux with a woman's boat1 in a small bay1 preparing to steer for ,nachvak4 ,they fired their pieces1 and called to us to join them1 as they had discovered a stranded whale4 ,going on shore to survey the remains of this huge animal1 we found it by no means a pleasant sight4 ,it lay upon the rocks1 occupying a space about thirty feet in diameter1 but was much shattered1 and in a decaying state4 ,our people1 however1 cut off a quantity of blubber from its lips4 ,the greater part of the blubber of this fish was lost1 as the ,esquimaux had no means of conveying it to ,okkak4 ,the ,esquimaux stationed here showed great willingness to assist us2 and as our party was much fatigued with rowing all night1 they towed us into ,nachvak1 where we arrived about #b ,p4,m4 ,old ,kayaluk and a young man1 ,parnguna1 and his wife1 were here4 ,the latter called on ,brother ,kohlmeister1 and thanked him for having saved her life4 ,he had forgotten that he had once given her medicine at ,okkak in a dangerous illness1 but her gratitude was still unbounded4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,reception at ,nachvak4 ,description of the bay4 ,the ,esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout4 ,christian deportment of the ,okkak and ,hopedale ,esquimaux4 ,jonas's address to the ,heathen4 ,love of music general among these ,indians4 ,departure from ,nachvak4 ,danger in doubling the ,north ,cape4 ,arrival at ,sangmiyok bay4 ,july #afth4--,after two or three hours sleep in our cabin1 we went on shore4 ,the ,esquimaux1 who had here a temporary station1 about fifty in number1 received us with every mark of attention4 ,loud shouts of joy resounded from all quarters1 and muskets were fired in every direction4 ,they could scarcely wait with patience for our landing1 and when we pitched our tent1 were all eager to assist2 thus we were soon at home among them4 ,seven tents were standing on the strand1 and we found the people here differing much in their manners from the people at ,saeglek4 ,their behaviour was modest and rather bashful1 nor were we assailed by beggars and importunate intruders1 as at the latter place1 where beggary seemed quite the fashion1 and proved very troublesome to us4 ,but we had no instance of stealing4 ,thieves are considered by the ,esquimaux in general with abhorrence1 and with a thief no one is willing to trade4 ,we have discovered1 however1 that that propensity is not altogether wanting in the northern ,esquimaux1 who1 now and then1 if they think that they can do it without detection1 will make a little free with their neighbour's property4 ,the ,esquimaux not only gave us a most hearty welcome1 but attended our morning and evening prayers with great silence and apparent devotion4 ,indeed1 to our great surprise1 they behaved altogether with uncommon decorum and regularity during our stay4 #agth4 ,being detained with drift-ice at the mouth of the bay1 we pitched our tent on shore4 ,we examined the bay more minutely4 ,it extends to the ,west to a considerable depth1 and is not protected by any islands1 except a few rocks1 at some distance in the sea4 ,the surrounding mountains are very high1 steep1 and barren1 and verdure is found only in the vallies4 ,here the arnica montana1 which the ,missionaries have found of great use among the ,esquimaux1 grows in great abundance4 ,salmon-trout are caught in every creek and inlet4 ,like the salmon1 they remain in the rivers and fresh-water lakes during the winter1 and return to the sea in spring4 ,the ,esquimaux about ,okkak and ,saeglek1 catch them in winter under the ice by spearing4 ,for this purpose1 they make two holes in the ice1 about eight inches in diameter1 and six feet asunder1 in a direction from north to south4 ,the northern hole they screen from the sun1 by a bank of snow about four feet in height1 raised in a semicircle round its southern edge1 and form another similar bank on the north-side of the southern hole1 sloped in such a manner as to reflect the rays of the sun into it4 ,the ,esquimaux then lies down1 with his face close to the northern aperture1 beneath which the water is strongly illuminated by the sunbeams entering at the southern4 ,in his left hand he holds a red string1 with which he plays in the water1 to allure the fish1 and in his right a spear1 ready to strike them as they approach4 ,in this manner they soon take as many as they want4 ,the salmon-trout on this coast are from twelve to eighteen inches long1 and in ,august and ,september so fat1 that the ,esquimaux collect from them a sufficient quantity of oil for their lamps4 ,the immense abundance of these fish on all parts of the coast1 would almost at any time save the ,esquimaux from starving with hunger2 but as seals furnish them both with food and clothing1 it is of most consequence to them to attend to this branch of supply4 ,at ,hopedale and ,nain1 however1 salmon-trout are caught only in the summer4 ,we were much pleased with the behaviour of our own ,esquimaux1 during their stay at ,nachvak4 ,in every respect they conducted themselves1 in word and deed1 as true ,christian people4 ,their conversation with their heathen countrymen1 was free and unreserved1 and to the use of edifying4 ,jonathan and ,jonas in particular1 gave us great satisfaction4 ,the people having assembled in ,jonathan's tent1 those who had no room in it1 standing without and listening with great order and stillness1 ,brother ,kohlmeister addressed them1 explaining the aim of our voyage2 that we were going1 out of love to their nation1 to the northern ,esquimaux1 and to those of ,ungava bay1 to make known to them the love of ,god our ,saviour2 and1 by the gospel1 to point out to them the way to obtain life everlasting4 ,we knew that they were heathen1 who1 being ignorant of the way to ,god1 were in bondage to the devil1 and would be lost for ever1 unless ,god had mercy upon them and sent them his word1 to lead them to ,jesus ,christ their only ,saviour1 who shed ,his blood1 and died on the cross to redeem their souls4 ,they received the discourses and exhortations of the ,missionary with reverential attention1 but those of their own countrymen1 with still greater eagerness1 and we hope not without benefit4 ,jonas once addressed them thus2 ,we were but lately as ignorant as you are now3 we were long unable to understand the comfortable words of the gospel3 we had neither ears to hear1 nor hearts to receive them1 till ,jesus1 by his power1 opened our hearts and ears4 ,now we know what ,jesus has done for us1 and how great the happiness of those souls is1 who come unto ,him1 love ,him as their ,saviour1 and know1 that they shall not be lost1 when this life is past4 ,without this we live in constant fear of death4 ,you will enjoy the same happiness1 if you turn to and believe in ,jesus4 ,we are not surprised that you do not yet understand us4 ,we were once like you1 but now thank ,jesus our ,redeemer1 with tears of joy1 that ,he has revealed ,himself unto us1 ,thus1 with cheerful countenances and great energy1 did these ,christian ,esquimaux praise and glorify the name of ,christ our ,saviour1 and declare1 what he had done for their souls1 exhorting the heathen likewise to believe4 ,the above address seemed to make a deep impression on the minds of all present4 ,one of their leaders1 or captains1 exclaimed with great eagerness1 in presence of them all3 ,i am determined to be converted to ,jesus4 ,his name is ,onalik4 ,he afterwards called upon ,brother ,kohlmeister1 and inquired1 whether it was the same1 to which of the three settlements he removed1 as it was his firm determination to become a true believer4 ,brother ,kohlmeister answered3 ,that it was indifferent where he lived1 if he were only converted and became a child of ,god1 and an heir of life eternal4 ,another1 named ,tullugaksoak1 made the same declaration1 and added3 ,that he would no longer live among the heathen4 ,though the very fickle disposition of the heathen ,esquimaux1 might cause some doubts to arise in our minds1 as to their putting these good resolutions into practice1 yet we hope1 that the seed of the word of ,god1 sown in this place1 may not have altogether fallen upon barren ground4 ,in the evening1 our people met in ,jonathan's tent1 and sang hymns4 ,almost all the inhabitants were present4 ,they afterwards spent a long time in pleasant and edifying conversation4 ,it may here be observed1 that the ,esquimaux delight in singing and music4 ,as to national songs1 they have nothing deserving of that name2 and the various collectors of these precious morsels in our day1 would find their labour lost in endeavouring to harmonize the incantations of their sorcerers and witches1 which more resemble the howlings of wolves and growlings of bears1 than any thing human4 ,but though the hymn and psalm-tunes of the ,brethren's ,church are mostly of antient construction1 and1 though rich in harmony1 have no airy melodies to make them easily understood by unmusical ears1 yet the ,esquimaux soon learn to sing them correctly2 and the voices of the women are remarkably sweet and well-tuned4 ,brother ,kohlmeister having given one of the children a toy-flute1 ,paul took it1 and immediately picked out the proper stops in playing several psalm-tunes upon it1 as well as the imperfect state of the instrument would admit4 ,brother ,kmoch having taken a violin with him1 the same ,esquimaux likewise took it up1 and it was not long before he found out the manner of producing the different notes4 #ahth4 ,at #h ,a4,m4 ,brother ,kohlmeister having delivered a farewell-discourse to the ,esquimaux1 7during which they were much affected71 we took leave of these goodnatured people1 and set sail with a fair and strong ,west-wind1 but met with much drift-ice at the entrance of the bay4 ,it made less way than our boat1 and the wind becoming more violent1 we found ourselves in an unpleasant situation4 ,after tacking all day1 and a great part of the night1 the ice preventing our proceeding1 and the wind1 our returning to our former station1 we were obliged to make for the ,eastern point of the bay1 where we at length succeeded in gaining a small cove1 and cast anchor4 ,our situation was singular2 the rocks rose in a semicircle around us1 towering perpendicularly to an amazing height1 like an immense wall4 ,after a few hours stay1 two ,nachvak ,esquimaux joined us1 and prevailed on ,jonathan to return to the tents1 but we had scarcely reached the centre of the bay1 before the violence of the wind drove us out to sea1 and we were compelled to push for the northern promontory1 from which all the ice had now retreated4 ,under the mountains we found shelter from the wind1 which had by this time risen to a storm4 ,it was late1 and as it appeared dangerous to remain here1 we rowed towards the point1 but there beheld1 with terror1 the raging of the sea and dashing of the waves against the rocks1 the spray flying like clouds into the air1 and returned into smooth water1 where1 however1 we were long in finding a place to anchor in4 ,the night was spent quietly under shelter of the high rocks4 ,they form the base of mountains higher than the ,kiglapeyd1 rise perpendicularly1 in some places impending1 with fragments1 apparently loose1 hanging over their edge1 and forming all kinds of grotesque figures4 #aith4 ,at sun-rise we still saw and heard the storm which threatened us with destruction1 if we ventured to double the cape4 ,at nine the wind abated1 and we set sail1 got safe round the point1 and glided1 with a gentle wind1 into a broad1 shallow bay1 called ,sangmiyok1 full both of hidden and visible rocks1 in which we cast anchor about five ,p4,m4 ,while ,brother ,kmoch superintended the concerns of the kitchen1 ,brother ,kohlmeister and ,jonathan went on shore1 and to the highest mountain on the promontory4 ,from the top of this mountain they could plainly discern the four principal headlands between ,cape ,mugford and ,cape ,chudleigh4 ,the former situated in latitude #eh deg4 ,n4 the latter in #fa deg4 ,between these are four promontories1 in a line from ,s4,e4 to ,n4,w4 ,the first is ,uivak1 at the entrance into ,saeglek ,bay1 outside of which a small island lies1 in form of a pyramid or sugar-loaf4 ,next follow the two forming ,nachvak ,bay1 another ,uivak to the south of ,nennoktok1 upon which we stood4 ,the fourth is ,kakkeviak1 not far from ,killinek1 or ,cape ,chudleigh1 in form of a tent1 called in the charts ,blackhead4 ,nennoktok is called ,false ,blackhead4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,pass ,cape ,nennoktok4 ,visit the ,esquimaux families at ,kummaktorvik and ,amitok4 ,description of an ,esquimaux travelling bed4 ,mountains seen at ,ungava4 ,netsek seal described4 ,greenland houses4 ,danger of being shipwrecked near ,kakkeviak4 ,july #bjth4--,we proceeded with little or no wind1 and taking to our oars1 doubled the great ,cape of ,nennoktok4 ,here a strong swell from the sea met us1 and tossed our boat violently about1 and1 having no wind1 it drove us nearer to the shore than was perfectly safe4 ,we remained about an hour in this unpleasant situation1 when a breeze sprung up1 which carried us out to the open sea among islands4 ,it now began to rain very hard1 and the wind rose4 ,while ,brother ,kmoch was assisting the people on deck1 ,brother ,kohlmeister had enough to do below1 to keep peace among the furniture of our cabin1 and sometimes found himself defeated in his attempts1 pots and pans1 and boxes1 and every thing that was not a fixture1 tumbling upon him4 ,several of our people were in the skin-boat1 and the fury of the wind and sea would not permit them to come to our assistance4 ,the weather also became so thick and foggy between the islands1 that we were unable to see to any distance4 ,jonathan was therefore glad to have been yesterday on shore1 when from the mountain he discovered the situation of the promontory1 the coast1 and the islands before us1 and now contrived to steer in the proper direction4 ,we soon found ourselves in smoother water1 and among islands1 where a vast number of seals and birds made their appearance4 ,at six in the evening we reached ,kummaktorvik1 and came to an anchor4 ,having landed1 ,brother ,kmoch shot a hare1 close to the beach4 ,these creatures are white in winter1 and grey in summer1 and in winter so numerous1 that though1 when roasted1 they are excellent food1 we were almost tired of them last year at ,okkak4 ,the rain continuing during the whole of the night and forenoon of the #bast1 we found it necessary by sufficient rest to strengthen ourselves for future watchfulness4 ,an ,esquimaux travelling bed consists of a large bag of reindeer-skin1 with the hair turned inward1 covered with seal-skin1 the hair turned outward4 ,it is furnished with a broad flap to cover the mouth1 and a strap to fasten down the flap4 ,this bag comprehends the whole apparatus and furniture of an ,esquimaux bed-room4 ,having undressed1 the traveller creeps into it1 and a kind neighbour having shut him up close by fastening the strap1 he leaves him to sleep on till morning1 when he helps him out again4 ,in summer the flap is dispensed with4 ,the invention1 however1 is of ,european origin1 and a luxury introduced by the ,missionaries2 for an ,esquimaux lies down in his clothes1 without further preparation4 ,in the morning we landed1 and had the usual ,sunday's service with our people on shore2 after which ,brother ,kohlmeister visited the ,esquimaux in their tents1 and had some religious conversation with them1 to which they seemed to pay attention4 ,afterwards ,kuttaktok1 ,john1 ,nukkapiak1 and ,kajulik1 with their wives1 came to see us on board4 ,they are the winter inhabitants of this bay4 ,john was baptized in infancy at ,okkak1 but afterwards left the settlement1 and not only associates with the heathen ,esquimaux1 but has even been guilty of murder4 ,all of them1 however1 come occasionally to ,okkak4 ,they had two tents about four miles from our landing place4 #bb;d4 ,the contrary wind forbidding our departure1 ,brother ,kohlmeister1 accompanied by ,jonathan1 ,jonas1 and ,thukkekina1 walked across the country to the ,n4,w4 bay1 to return their visit4 ,when they saw them coming at a distance1 they fired their pieces1 to direct them to the tents1 and came joyfully to meet the ,missionary and his party4 ,nothing could exceed the cordiality with which they received them4 ,a kettle was immediately put on the fire to cook salmon-trout1 and all were invited to partake1 which was the more readily accepted1 as the length of the walk had created an appetite1 the keenness of which overcame all squeamishness4 ,to do these good people justice1 their kettle was rather cleaner than usual1 the dogs having licked it well1 and the fish were fresh and well dressed4 ,to honour the ,missionary1 a box was placed for him to sit upon1 and the fish were served up to each upon a flat stone instead of a plate4 ,after dinner1 ,brother ,kohlmeister1 in acknowledgment for their civility1 gave to each of the women two needles1 and a small portion of tobacco to each man1 with which they were highly delighted4 ,all of them being seated1 a very lively and unreserved conversation took place concerning the only way of salvation1 through ,jesus ,christ1 and the necessity of conversion4 ,with ,john and his mother ,mary1 ,brother ,kohlmeister spoke very seriously1 and represented to them the danger of their state1 as apostates from the faith2 but they seem blinded by ,satan1 and determined to persist in their heathenish life4 ,the ,esquimaux now offered to convey the party across the bay in their skin-boat1 which was accepted4 ,almost all of them accompanied the boat1 and met with a very friendly reception from our boat's company4 ,in the evening1 after some hymns had been sung by our people1 ,jonas addressed them and the heathen ,esquimaux in a short1 nervous discourse1 on the blessedness of being reconciled unto ,god4 ,kummaktorvik bay runs ,n4,e4 and ,s4,w4 and is defended by some islands from the sea4 ,it is about four or five miles long1 and surrounded by high mountains1 with some pleasant plains at their foot1 covered with verdure4 ,it's distance from ,nachvak is about twelve miles4 ,this chain of mountains1 as will be hereafter mentioned1 may be seen from ,kangertlualuksoak1 in ,ungava ,bay1 which is a collateral proof1 that the neck of land1 terminated to the ,n4 by ,cape ,chudleigh1 is of no great width4 ,both the ,nain and ,okkak ,esquimaux frequently penetrate far enough inland to find the rivers taking a westerly direction1 consequently towards the ,ungava country4 ,they even now and then have reached the woods skirting the estuaries of ,george and ,south rivers4 #bc;d4 ,we set sail at sun-rise1 but the wind being too high to suffer us to proceed with safety1 we again anchored in a commodious harbour in ,amitok island4 ,our people were here busily employed in repairing the damaged rigging and sails4 ,towards evening ,jonas caught a seal1 to the great gratification of our party4 ,it was dressed immediately1 and we joined them in their repast with a good appetite4 ,the ,netsek is the only species of seal which remains during the winter under the ice4 ,they form in it large caverns1 in which they bring forth their young1 two at a time1 in ,march4 ,more than one cavern belongs to one seal1 that he may1 if disturbed in the first1 take shelter in the second4 ,no other kind of seal is caught in winter by the ,esquimaux4 #bdth4 ,brother ,kmoch rose at two1 and went on shore to examine the island more minutely4 ,the morning was beautiful1 and the sun rose with great splendour4 ,amitok lies ,n4,w4 from ,kummaktorvik1 is of an oblong shape1 and stretches out pretty far towards the sea4 ,the hills are of moderate height1 the land is in many places flat1 but in general destitute of grass4 ,on the other side are some ruins of ,greenland houses4 ,the ,esquimaux have a tradition1 that the ,greenlanders came originally from ,canada1 and settled on the outermost islands of this coast1 but never penetrated into the country1 before they were driven eastward to ,greenland4 ,this report gains some credit1 from the state in which the abovementioned ruins are found4 ,they consist in remains of walls and graves1 with a low stone enclosure round the tomb1 covered with a slab of the same material4 ,they have been discovered on islands near ,nain1 and though sparingly1 all along the whole eastern coast1 but we saw none in ,ungava bay4 ,the rocks on ,amitok contain large masses of a crumbly1 semi-transparent garnet1 of a reddish hue4 7,from some specimens sent out1 it rather appears to be a rose red quartz1 or beryllite74 ,as it appeared as if we should be detained here1 ,brother ,kmoch had made a fire1 and was leisurely cooking a savoury mess of birds for breakfast1 when ,jonathan returned from the hills1 with intelligence that the wind was abating in violence1 and he therefore would proceed4 ,the tent was struck1 and all hurried on board3 yet we had long to combat both an unfavourable wind and a strong current1 which compelled us to double the ,east point of the island1 and seek shelter among some small islands1 steering for ,niakungu point4 ,from hence we got the first sight of ,tikkerarsuk1 7the ,esquimaux name for a low point stretching from the continent into the sea71 of the island ,aulatzevik1 and the high promontory of ,kakkeviak4 ,the whole country to the west of ,niakungu is called ,serliarutsit4 ,it fell calm as we doubled the point1 and we took to our oars1 and came to an anchor in an open bay1 south of ,tikkerarsuk4 #beth4 ,at #f ,p4,m4 we got under weigh with a fine ,s4,e4 wind1 and made for the island of ,aulatzevik1 which is about the same size as an island of the same name1 near ,kiglapeyd4 ,the passage between the island and the main is too shallow for an ,european boat like ours4 ,the wind rising we sailed towards ,kakkeviak at a great rate4 ,to the right lay a chain of small islands called by the ,esquimaux ,pikkiulits1 7the habitation of young eider-ducks74 ,having nearly doubled ,kakkeviak cape1 we perceived two tents on shore1 which occasioned loud rejoicings on board4 ,they belonged to ,kumiganna of ,saeglek1 with his party1 who being bound to ,killinek1 had promised to accompany us thither4 ,the wind was very high1 and the ,cape encircled with numerous visible and invisible rocks1 but there was a clear passage to the shore1 keeping outside of the breakers4 ,but whether from the violence of the wind1 or from the eagerness with which our trusty captain wished soon to join his countrymen1 he steered right through the midst of them1 when suddenly the boat struck with great violence upon a sunken rock4 ,the shock was so great1 that all on board were thrown down1 and every thing tumbled about4 ,poor ,agnes1 ,jonas's wife1 got a severe wound in her head4 ,we immediately took in all our sails1 and after hard labour1 succeeded in pushing the boat off the rock4 ,on examination we found that all was safe1 and thanked ,god1 with hearts filled with humble acknowledgments of ,his mercy1 for preserving us from danger and death4 ,the boat had struck in such a manner1 that the keel1 which was new and strong1 being constructed of one solid piece of timber1 sustained the whole shock4 ,had she taken the rock with her bottom1 she would most likely have bilged1 or upset1 and it is a great question1 whether our lives1 but particularly the lives of the little children1 could have been saved1 the sea running very high4 ,the skin-boat was thrown right over the rocks on shore1 by the violence of the surf4 ,kumiganna soon came off in his kayak1 and advised us to steer for the land right before us1 where he thought we should find ,uttakiyok2 nor was there any safe anchorage in this place4 ,we therefore took a young ,esquimaux on board as pilot1 and steered between the main land and the islands1 for ,oppernavik1 twenty ,english miles off4 ,having left the skin-boat to follow us1 we cut swiftly through the water1 and soon reached the place of our destination4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,arrival at ,oppernavik4 ,account of ,uttakiyok4 ,his perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the ,missionaries4 ,islands and bays between ,kakkeviak and ,killinek4 ,danger in the ice at ,ammitok4 ,want of fuel supplied by robbing old graves4 ,when we arrived at ,oppernavik1 we found ,uttakiyok1 with his two wives and youngest brother1 waiting to receive us4 ,he and his family are from the ,ungava bay1 and had been upon the watch in this place during the whole spring4 ,they welcomed us with shouts of joy1 and firing of their pieces1 and we had indeed the greatest reason to thank ,god1 that he had sent us this man1 to conduct us on our way to an unknown country1 and through unfrequented seas4 ,for this service ,uttakiyok was eminently qualified1 and without such a steady1 faithful guide1 we should have been wandering in the most painful and dangerous uncertainty in the desert regions to the ,west of ,cape ,chudleigh1 where1 on a coast of #ajj miles in length1 we did not meet with a single inhabitant4 ,he was so anxiously intent upon meeting us1 that he had erected signals on all the heights surrounding his tent1 to prevent our missing him4 ,among his countrymen he is much respected1 on account of his superior sense1 and skill in all ,esquimaux arts1 and possesses great influence among them4 ,uttakiyok was one of the two ,esquimaux1 from whom1 in the year #ahjj1 we received the first distinct information respecting the ,ungava country and its inhabitants1 by which the desire1 excited both at home and here in ,labrador1 to visit the northern ,esquimaux1 was greatly strengthened1 and led to a resolution1 if possible1 to take early steps to accomplish this object1 7,see page #c74 ,two years ago1 he had been on a trading voyage to ,okkak1 from ,killinek1 where he then dwelt1 and intended to return1 in the summer following1 to ,ungava1 his native country1 but an illness1 which befel his son1 detained him4 ,this intelligence was received at ,okkak during last winter1 when we sent him word1 that as we purposed paying his countrymen a visit1 we wished him to wait for us1 that he might conduct us through the straits of ,killinek4 ,but having heard nothing further concerning him1 we remained in uncertainty respecting his intentions4 ,we were the more thankful to ,god1 who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully to accept of the commission1 and wait to be our guide1 an office which he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested kindness1 which claims our admiration and gratitude4 ,while we were here waiting for a favourable opportunity to pass the straits1 which were yet filled with ice1 he behaved in the kindest manner to us and our ,esquimaux4 ,though a heathen1 he regularly attended our morning and evening worship1 and declared to ,jonathan1 that he also intended to be converted to ,jesus1 and if we would form a settlement in his country1 would come and live with us1 and was sure1 that many of his countrymen would do the same4 ,around his tent1 a considerable extent of rock was covered with seal's flesh1 and in the hollows were pools of oil4 ,ten bags of blubber were standing ready for sale2 and with a view to shew him our good-will1 ,brother ,kohlmeister bartered with him for three of them1 which were hid under the stones1 to take them with us1 if practicable1 on our return4 #bfth4 ,we put up our three tents2 ,uttakiyok's people had three more4 ,wind ,n4,w4 ,we were now near the entrance into the ,ikkerasak1 7or straits71 which separate the island of ,killinek and two or three other large islands from the continent4 ,they stretch to the ,n4 to the distance of about #ab or #ae ,english miles1 the outer one forming ,cape ,chudleigh4 ,to the ,n4,w4 of the cape lie some other small islands1 called by the ,esquimaux ,tutsaets1 and ,n4,n4,e4 of these1 the great island ,resolution1 called ,igloarsuk1 on which1 as we were informed1 many ,esquimaux reside4 ,the ,tutsaets were discernible from this place1 but not the latter1 which however1 as the ,esquimaux say1 may be seen from the ,tutsaets4 ,we guessed at its situation1 from the clouds hanging over it in the ,north quarter4 ,the weather was1 as might be expected on the northern coast of ,america1 foggy1 rainy1 and cold1 and our small stove1 which we brought into the tent1 was of great use to us during our stay in this place4 #bgth4 ,rain and wind violent1 and prevented our proceeding4 ,we caught some ,pitsiolaks1 7awks71 and a brace of young puffins1 which1 with the addition of some salt meat1 made excellent broth4 #bhth4 ,the weather was fair1 but the wind still blowing hard at ,n4,w4 ,brother ,kmoch went to ,uttakiyok's tent1 and sitting down with him at the point of ,oppernavik1 and looking down the coast as far as ,kakkeviak1 got him to name all the bays1 points1 and islands1 from ,kakkeviak to ,oppernavik1 of which he made minutes4 ,the distance between the two points or headlands may be guessed at1 by the time of sailing with a strong leading wind1 namely three hours and a half4 ,coming up from ,kakkeviak1 to the ,e4 lie three islands1 ,kikkertorsoak1 ,imilialuk1 rather less in view1 and ,nessetservik4 ,having passed these1 there follows a chain of small1 naked islands1 not very high1 stretching towards ,killinek4 ,to the ,w4 near ,kakkeviak lies ,uglek2 then a bay1 ,nulluk1 and farther to the left another bay1 ,tellek1 7right arm74 ,the country along these bays is called ,attanarsuk4 ,now follow the bay ,ikkorliarsuk1 the lower point of ,tikkerarsuk1 the bay ,annivagtok1 and ,kakkeviak1 a high promontory1 7not to be confounded with the other ,kakkeviak1 where we struck on the rock4 ,this promontory is only about four miles from ,oppernavik to the ,s4,e474 ,then follow two small bays1 ,anniovariktok and ,sangmiyok1 then the promontory ,ukkuliakartok1 7meaning a headland between two bays71 and the bay ,tunnusuksoak4 ,next1 the last point on the continent1 forming the south entrance to the ,ikkerasak4 ,the abovementioned chain of barren islands is called by the ,esquimaux ,naviarutsit1 and besides them some low rocks1 ,nuvurutsit4 ,the island of ,killinek is about nine miles long1 and five broad1 high1 and forming the north side of the straits4 ,another ,ikkerasak1 7or strait71 divides it from an island called ,kikkertorsoak1 7a common name for an island71 of considerable height1 but not so long as ,killinek3 one1 or perhaps more islands follow1 narrowing ,e4 and ,w4 and forming ,cape ,chudleigh4 ,to-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea4 ,we went to the nearest island1 where ,brother ,kohlmeister took an observation1 and found our situation to be #fj deg4 #af'4 #cjth4 ,it blew a hard gale from the ,n4,e41 rained hard1 and as the ice now began to enter our harbour1 we were busily engaged in keeping it off the boat4 #cast4 ,imagining to-day that the straits would be free from ice1 we resolved to attempt to pass them1 and set sail4 ,but it soon became evident1 that there was still plenty of ice in the neighbourhood1 and the wind setting to the ,n4,e4 with fogs1 we were obliged to return4 ,suspecting also that the easterly wind would again drive the ice into our former harbour at ,oppernavik1 we ran into a short pass1 between that and a small island called ,ammitok1 where we anchored under shelter of the island4 ,the sequel proved1 that we had for once acted with sound judgment and foresight1 for our former anchoring-ground was soon filled with ice2 and during the night large flakes entered even into our present place of refuge4 ,august #ast4 ,at day break we found ourselves completely surrounded by floating ice1 a strong ,n4,w4 wind driving the large shoals from the ,w4 side of the little pass in which we lay1 with much force towards us1 insomuch that our boat was in the greatest danger of being crushed to pieces by them4 ,we were all day long hard at work with poles1 boat-hooks1 and hatchets1 to ward off the larger shoals1 but when the tide fell1 they hung upon our cables and anchors1 of which we had three out1 closing in also on all sides of the boat1 so that we were every moment in fearful expectation of her being carried away1 and our anchors lost1 which would have reduced us to the most distressing situation4 ,indeed we all cried to the ,lord to help us in this dangerous situation1 and not to suffer us to perish here1 but by ,his almighty aid1 to save us and our boat4 ,with great and unremitting exertions we had laboured all day1 from the morning early1 till seven in the evening1 when the ,lord heard our prayers1 and sent relief4 ,we now succeeded in working the boat out of the ice1 the rising of the tide having opened a passage through it1 just as we were almost exhausted with fatigue4 ,it also became quite calm1 and we felt as if we had passed from death to life4 ,having anchored again on the opposite side of the little pass or strait1 we gave thanks to ,god1 for the deliverance we had experienced through ,his mercy1 in which our ,esquimaux1 young and old1 most fervently joined4 ,during our stay at ,oppernavik1 our whole stock of fire-wood was expended1 and we were obliged to purchase of our companions1 what they had to spare4 ,we likewise robbed some old ,esquimaux graves of the wooden utensils1 which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to lay beside the corpses of their owners1 with old tent-poles1 c4 and thus obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery4 ,wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in ,labrador1 but wastes away gradually2 and after forty or more years1 the wood found at the graves is still fit for use4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,departure from ,oppernavik4 ,pass the ,ikkerasak of ,killinek4 ,whirlpools4 ,the coast takes a southerly direction4 ,meeting with ,esquimaux from the ,ungava country1 who had never seen an ,european4 ,anchor at ,omanek4 ,high tides4 ,drift-wood4 ,double ,cape ,uibvaksoak4 ,distant view of ,akpatok4 ,august #b;d4--,having made all needful preparations for the voyage1 a gentle but favourable wind1 and occasional rowing1 brought us1 about nine in the morning1 to the entrance of the much dreaded ,ikkerasak4 ,the weather was pleasant and warm1 not a flake of ice was to be seen1 and all our fear and anxiety had subsided4 ,our minds were attuned to praise and thanksgiving for the providential preservation we had experienced yesterday4 ,we performed our morning devotions on deck1 and all joined in a joyful hallelujah to ,god our ,saviour1 which was sweetly repeated by echoes among the mountains and precipices on either side4 ,the scripture-text appointed in the ,church of the ,united ,brethren for this day being read1 it seemed as if addressed particularly to us1 separated as we felt ourselves1 in these lonely regions1 from the rest of the inhabitants of the earth3 ,see now that ,i1 even ,i1 am ,he1 and there is no ,god with me3 ,i kill1 and ,i make alive2 ,i wound1 and ,i heal4 ,deut4 #cb1 #ci4 ,we rejoiced1 that we were in the hands of a gracious and merciful ,god and ,father1 who would not forsake us1 but deal with us according to his wonted mercy and favour4 ,the ,ikkerasak1 7or strait71 is about ten miles in length2 the land on each side high and rocky1 and in some places precipitous1 but there appeared no rocks in the strait itself4 ,the water is deep and clear4 ,its mouth is wide1 and soon after entering1 a bay opens to the left1 which by an inlet only just wide enough to admit a boat1 communicates with a lagoon of considerable magnitude1 in which lies an island on its western bank4 ,beyond this bay1 the passage narrows and consequently the stream1 always setting from ,n4 to ,s4 grows more rapid4 ,here the mountains on both sides rise to a great height4 ,having proceeded for two miles in a narrow channel1 the strait opens again1 but afterwards contracts to about #ajjj yards across2 immediately beyond which1 the left coast turns to the south4 ,as the tide ebbs regularly with the current from ,n4 to ,s4 along the whole coast of ,labrador1 the current through the strait is most violent during its fall1 and less1 when resisted by its influx on rising4 ,we were taught to expect much danger in passing certain eddies or whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits1 and were therefore continually upon the look-out for them4 ,when we passed the first narrow channel1 at #ab ,p4,m4 it being low water1 no whirlpool was perceptible4 ,having sailed on for little more than half an hour1 with wind and tide in our favour1 we reached the second4 ,here1 indeed1 we discovered a whirlpool1 but of no great magnitude at this state of the tide4 ,near the north-shore the water was1 indeed1 whirled round in the manner of a boiling cauldron of ten or twelve feet diameter1 with considerable noise and much foam2 but we passed without the smallest inconvenience1 within thirty or forty feet of the outer circle4 ,our skin-boat1 however1 which we had in tow1 with a man in it1 was seized by the vortex1 and received a rapid twist2 but as the towing-rope did not break1 she was immediately rescued from danger by the swiftness of our course1 and the affair afforded us more diversion than anxiety4 ,the motion of the water in these eddies is so great1 that they never freeze in the severest winter4 ,the ice being drawn towards them with great force1 the largest shoals are carried under water1 and thrown up again1 broken into numerous fragments4 ,the ,ikkerasak is at that season utterly impassable for boats4 ,the ,killinek people inhabit an island to the right1 after leaving the strait4 ,when we quitted the ,ikkerasak1 and entered the ocean on the western side of ,cape ,chudleigh1 it seemed as if we were transported to a new world4 ,hitherto the coast to our left had always taken a northerly direction4 ,it now turned to the ,s4,s4,w4 and is low1 with gently sloping hills1 the sea being full of small islands1 abounding in sea-fowl4 ,to the ,n4 and ,n4,w4 we saw the open sea in ,hudson's ,straits1 which1 compared to the turbulent ,atlantic1 seemed calm and peaceful4 ,we sailed briskly amidst the islands1 and overtook the inhabitants of ,saeglek1 whom we had seen at ,kakkeviak1 where they had got the start of us4 ,the wind being favourable1 we did not hail them1 but kept on our course4 ,we now saw with pleasure the ,ungava country to the ,south before us1 but had first to pass the low point of ,uivarsuk1 the bay of ,arvavik1 in which the people from ,saeglek had their summer stations1 and the mountain ,omanek1 of moderate height1 and surrounded by many small islets1 called by the ,esquimaux ,erngavinget1 7bowels74 ,we now discovered three skin-boats full of people standing towards us from the shore4 ,they were inhabitants of ,ungava1 and welcomed our approach with loud shouts of joy and firing their pieces1 which was answered by our party4 ,they followed us to ,omanek1 a round island rising like a loaf among the rest1 where they pitched their tents on shore4 ,some of them had formerly dwelt in different places north of ,okkak1 and were known to the ,missionaries in former times1 the rest were perfect strangers4 ,they declared their intention of coming over to the ,north of ,okkak1 to remain some time in that country1 for the sake of trade4 ,it has been mentioned1 that some of the ,ungava people have come to ,okkak1 and carry on a trade between their countrymen and that place4 ,they are a kind of middle men1 bring fox and bear-skins1 and exchange them for ,european goods4 ,these they carry back1 and sell at a very advanced price in the ,ungava country4 ,they spend two years on such a trading voyage4 ,brother ,kohlmeister visited the people in their tents4 ,they were about fifty in number1 men1 women1 and children4 ,he informed them1 that nothing could induce the ,missionaries to come into this country1 but love to the poor heathen1 and an ardent desire to make them acquainted with their ,creator and ,redeemer1 that through ,him they might attain to happiness in time and eternity4 ,some seemed to listen with great attention1 but the greater part understood nothing of what was said4 ,this1 of course1 did not surprise us1 as most of them were quite ignorant heathen1 who had never before seen an ,european4 ,they1 however1 raised a shout of joy1 when we informed them1 that we would come and visit them in their own country4 ,many were not satisfied with viewing us on every side with marks of great astonishment1 but came close up to us1 and pawed us all over4 ,at taking leave we presented them with a few trifles1 which excited among them the greatest pleasure and thankfulness4 ,we recommend these heathen to the mercy of ,god1 and pray1 that the day may soon dawn1 when the light of the saving gospel of ,jesus may shine into their hearts4 #c;d4 ,several of them came on board1 once more to see us1 and1 in their way1 to express their regard and gratitude4 ,they also got some useful articles from our people1 in exchange for their goods4 ,we now set sail1 passed a point called ,oglarvik1 and the bay ,takpangayok1 and arrived at ,tuktusiovik1 7a place where reindeer are seen71 where we cast anchor for the night4 ,already at ,omanek we had discovered a great difference between the rise and fall of the tides there and about ,killinek4 ,in the latter place it rose to four fathoms1 but here still higher4 ,the country looked pleasant1 with many berry-bearing plants and bushes4 ,there was1 likewise1 plenty of drift-wood all along the coast2 not the large ,greenland timber1 but small trees and roots1 evidently carried out of the great rivers of the ,ungava by the ice4 ,we had1 of course1 fire-wood enough1 without robbing the graves of their superstitious furniture4 ,our ,esquimaux pitched their tent on shore1 and we supped with them on a mess of seal's flesh and eider-ducks4 ,the musquitoes were extremely troublesome during our repast1 after which we retired to sleep on board the boat4 #dth4 ,wind fair4 ,we passed numerous low rocks2 a point1 by name unknown to ,uttakiyok2 the bay ,ikpigitok1 two miles broad1 and the cape called ,uibvaksoak1 the northern boundary of the great bay or gulf of ,abloriak4 ,this cape is surrounded by many bare and sunken rocks1 which caused us to stand out pretty far to the westward4 ,while we were off the point1 we descried1 at a very great distance to the ,n4,w4 a large island1 called by the ,esquimaux ,akpatok4 ,they say1 that it encloses the whole bay or gulf towards the sea1 and consists of high land3 also1 that it is connected with the western continent at low water by an isthmus4 ,the north coast of this island appears to be the line laid down in maps and charts as the coast of ,america1 to the south of ,hudson's ,straits4 ,but the district of ,ungava is separated from the island by a large inland bay1 extending southward to the #eh deg4 ,n4,l4 ,north of ,akpatok1 the ,esquimaux speak of islands well peopled by their countrymen1 who have never seen ,europeans4 ,having safely doubled the point or cape of ,uibvaksoak1 we came to an anchor near a small island to the south1 where we spent the night4 #eth4 ,calm weather1 and proceeded gently4 ,about #i ,a4,m4 the wind turned against us1 and we ran into a small bay1 about five miles from our former anchoring-place4 ,here we found the ,andromeda tetragona growing in tolerable quantity1 on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water4 ,the face of the country was unpleasant1 with many steep rocks4 ,on a precipice behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey4 ,the naked rocks had singular shapes1 and presented to the imagination the ruins of a destroyed town4 ,in the vallies we saw many small lagoons1 but little grass1 and the excrements of geese4 ,it was about full moon1 and the tide rising here five or six fathom1 occasioned the most strange alterations in the prospect towards the sea1 which1 being smooth and clear of rocks at high water1 exhibited1 after its fall1 an archipelago of rugged islands and black flats4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,chain of black mountains4 ,the ,dragon's dwelling4 ,changes occasioned by rise and fall of the tides1 and dangers attending them4 ,uttakiyok's superstitious customs4 ,singular effect of the tide in the bay of ,ittimnekoktok4 ,arrive at ,kangertlualuksoak bay and river4 ,its situation4 ,transactions there4 ,august #fth4--,we crossed the bay ,abloriak1 which is large and wide1 with many small islands and rocks towards the sea1 and high black mountains inland1 called ,torngaets4 ,uttakiyok1 who was always very eager to make us attentive to every object and its name1 shewed us here a wide and deep cavern1 in shape like the gable end of an house1 situated at the top of a precipice1 in a black mountain1 of a very horrid and dark appearance4 ,this1 he informed us1 was the dwelling place of ,torngak1 the evil spirit4 ,the scenery was1 indeed1 extremely wild and terrible1 and the beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at low water gave to the whole country a most singularly gloomy character4 ,nor is this change1 occasioned by the tide in the state of the sea1 merely in appearance terrific1 it is so in reality3 for we never durst cast anchor in less than eight or nine fathoms water1 lest at ebb-tide we should find ourselves aground1 or even high and dry4 ,the cavern just spoken of1 connected with the chain of black mountains in which it is situated1 we called the ,dragon's dwelling1 but had no time to examine the place1 though it did not appear inaccessible4 ,whether ,uttakiyok would have ventured to accompany us into it1 is another question1 for he was1 with all his good sense1 strongly attached to the superstitious notions and ceremonies of his countrymen4 ,thus1 on passing dangerous places he always hung the claw of a raven to his breast1 and carried the blown paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole fixed to one side of his boat4 ,the latter is a common practice among the northern ,esquimaux1 and probably considered by them all as a very efficient charm4 ,we passed ,sioralik1 and many small and flat rocky islands3 the bay ,issorkitok1 7a grassy place71 a nameless headland2 and the larger bay ,nappartolik1 7a woody country74 ,the wood is said to commence at the interior point of this bay1 and to continue throughout the whole of the ,ungava country1 which1 as we afterwards discovered1 extends to a considerable distance to the southward4 ,then follows ,tunnuyalik1 a point1 or perhaps an island1 on which lies a huge white stone1 twenty or thirty feet high1 by which it is distinguished from other similar headlands4 ,a chain of low1 flat islands1 runs out into the sea to a considerable distance1 and appearing at a distance as continued land1 they are mistaken for a cape4 ,farther on is the bay ,ittimnekoktok1 where it grew dark before we found a suitable anchorage4 ,the wind was high1 and some of our company went on shore in the skin-boat1 in order to pitch their tent1 and spend the night4 #gth4 ,on rising1 to our great surprise1 we found ourselves left by the tide in a shallow pool of water1 surrounded by rocky hills2 nor could we at all discover the situation of our skin-boat1 till after the water had begun to rise1 and raised us above the banks of our watery dungeon1 when1 with great astonishment1 not having been able to find it on the surface of the sea1 and accidentally directing our eyes upwards1 we saw it perched upon the top of a considerable eminence1 and apparently on shore4 ,we then landed1 and ascending a rising ground1 beheld with some terror1 the wonderful changes occasioned by the tides4 ,our course was visible to the extent of two or three ,english miles1 but the sea had left it1 and we were obliged to remain in this dismal place1 till about noon1 before the water had risen sufficiently to carry us out4 ,we now began to entertain fears1 lest we might not always be able to find proper harbours1 so as to avoid being left high and dry at low water2 for having anchored in nine fathoms last night1 we were left in one and a half this morning4 ,uttakiyok and ,thukkekina were with us on shore4 ,the eminence on which we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants1 and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares4 ,near the summit was a spot1 covered with red sand1 which stained one's fingers1 and among it were fragments of a substance resembling cast iron4 ,we seemed here to stand on a peninsula connected by an isthmus with another island1 or with the continent2 but probably at high water it may be a separate island4 ,as soon as the tide would permit1 we set out1 and proceeded towards a cape called ,kattaktok1 surrounded by small islands4 ,between the cape and our anchoring place1 we passed1 on the left1 the following objects2 ,keglo1 a broad deep bay2 ,katarusialik1 a headland1 probably of the continent2 ,ukkasiksalik1 7meaning a place where soap stone is found71 a peninsula2 and to the right of the latter place1 an island1 ,kikkertarsoak1 which lies at the entrance of the ,great ,bay1 or estuary of the great river ,kangertlualuksoak4 ,we sailed with a strong1 but favourable wind1 with some rain1 between the peninsula and the island2 and not trusting to the depth of the water at ebb-tide1 sent two kayaks forward to sound4 ,they soon brought us into a good harbour1 where we cast anchor about half past five ,p4,m4 ,kangertlualuksoak river was the spot to which we had principally directed our views4 ,it lies about #adj miles ,s4,s4,w4 of ,cape ,chudleigh4 ,by an observation at its mouth its latitude appeared to be #eh deg4 #eg'4 ,but we had no means of finding the longitude4 ,at its entrance the bay runs rather ,s4,s4,e4 for about ten or twelve ,english miles1 then turns due ,s4,e4 for six or eight more1 and after that ,s4,w4 ,at the second turn towards the ,s4,e4 there is the greatest quantity of wood1 chiefly ,larch1 but of moderate size4 ,we particularly noticed a fine slope facing the south1 which appeared the most pleasant part of the bay1 to which a vessel might approach and anchor with convenience1 there being from #bd to #cj fathoms water4 ,we also imagined that the entrance from the sea would be free from obstructions1 as no islands are seen in that direction4 ,uttakiyok likewise declared1 that there was no bar or sunken rocks near the mouth of the bay4 ,we found no inhabitants on our arrival1 but on the #acth1 a whole company of people from ,killinek joined us4 ,our transactions in the bay of ,kangertlualuksoak1 from the #gth1 are here noticed more in detail4 ,august #hth4 ,we landed1 and went in search of our people1 who had spent the night in tents on shore4 ,okkiksuk accompanied us to the top of a hill1 overlooking the bay ,ittimnekoktok1 where we had anchored the day before4 ,we saw it quite dry1 and full of large fragments of rock4 ,turning towards the land1 we discovered some wood at a distance4 ,the weather being calm and warm1 the musquitoes were excessively troublesome4 ,the vallies here are overgrown with verdure1 and the hills pretty well clothed with moss1 and berry-bearing plants2 but we could not continue our walk1 on account of the musquitoes1 which persecuted us unmercifully1 and drove us back to our tents4 ,all our men were out1 two on that side on which we had landed1 and the others having crossed the bay in their kayaks1 were employed in hunting reindeer4 ,jonathan only remained at home4 ,in the afternoon he accompanied us in the small boat1 to a hill1 situated to the ,south of our station1 at about two miles distant1 where we landed1 and went up the country1 but found nothing much worth notice4 ,we observed1 that round the headland near us1 the water was very rough1 with eddies and whirlpools1 occasioned by the rising of the high tides4 ,on returning to our little boat1 we found it aground4 ,we therefore gathered some drift-wood1 of which there was plenty1 and made a good fire1 at which we sat down and regaled ourselves with some biscuit and beer4 ,having pushed the boat into the water1 we set out1 but owing to the violence of the current had hard work to get to the great boat1 and did not arrive till dark4 ,jonas saluted us from on board1 by firing off his piece in token of success1 and we found that he had got two1 and his companion three reindeer1 and a small black bear4 ,the carcases were left at the tents1 where part was cooked1 and a mess brought to us on board1 which proved an agreeable repast after our fatigue4 ,jonas and his family spent the night on board1 the rest of the ,esquimaux in their tents on shore4 #ith4 ,jonas having found a good harbour on the other side of the bay1 and the current being here very strong1 we sailed across and anchored there4 ,the strand was even1 and full of smooth rocks1 above high water mark4 ,the bottom of the bay is mud1 and a slimy substance1 covering all the stones and pebbles1 left by the tide1 makes walking very troublesome4 ,the land is not high1 but pleasant1 covered with moss1 with many small ponds1 and marks of being frequented by reindeer4 #ajth4 ,we went farther up the bay in the skin-boat1 with ,jonathan1 ,uttakiyok1 ,thukkekina1 ,paul1 ,david1 and ,okkiksuk4 ,at a short distance from the place where we had landed yesterday1 we came to a fine green terrace1 overgrown with low shrubs and bushes1 which delighted us much4 ,from hence1 a woody valley1 extending to the left1 seemed to invite us to take that course into the country1 but we would not waste our time by examining it4 ,on sailing farther up the bay1 and turning round the abovementioned terrace1 we came to a small inlet1 dry at low water1 on the left shore4 ,its banks were pleasantly covered with low bushes1 interspersed with higher trees1 and the place seemed to us very suitable for a settlement4 ,from hence we perceived1 at a short distance1 on the opposite coast1 a cape or headland1 over which the tops of trees made their appearance4 ,we sailed towards it1 and found behind it a tract covered with low wood1 chiefly larch and pine3 on landing we saw the tracks of rein-deer1 which had just left the spot4 ,jonathan1 in an instant1 ran like a young man for his gun1 and with it into the wood4 ,we followed him for two or three miles1 but saw nothing but the track of the deer4 ,the country inland seems in general level1 with some low hills1 and many ponds2 without wood1 but overgrown with rein-deer moss4 ,no success attended our huntsman1 and in the evening we met again in the boat4 ,brother ,kmoch had kept up with ,jonathan1 and saw1 among the bushes1 the same kind of large partridge1 or ,american wild pheasant1 which is found about ,okkak1 but seems only to live in woods4 ,it was a hen1 with a covey of young birds1 one of which which he caught1 examined1 and let go again1 nor would he take or shoot the hen1 out of compassion to the young brood4 ,brother ,kohlmeister had meanwhile gone farther up the bay1 and thought he had discovered the entrance of the river1 but no fresh water appearing1 we must still have been a great way off its influx into the bay4 ,we now lighted a fire1 boiled coffee1 and cooked a dish of reindeer venison4 ,the weather was warm1 and the night fine and clear1 but frosty4 ,having brought our travelling-beds with us on shore1 7see page #cd71 we crept into them1 and spent the night at the fire-side1 the ,esquimaux lying down anywhere about us4 ,in the morning1 the whole country was covered with hoar-frost1 and the straw we had lain upon was frozen fast to the ground4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,further transactions in ,kangertlualuksoak ,bay4 ,the ,esquimaux women frightened by reports of ,indians4 ,ceremony of taking possession of this new-explored country1 as belonging to the ,king of ,england1 and of naming the river ,george river4 ,leave the bay and proceed to ,arvarvik4 ,whales caught by the ,esquimaux in the shallows4 ,storm at ,kernertut4 ,august #aath4--,we rose by break of day1 and after breakfast1 sailed across the bay1 and landed at the second small inlet1 with an intention of penetrating into the country1 but the returning warmth of the weather by day1 and the myriads of musquitoes we had to contend with1 rendered us unable to execute our purpose4 ,the ,missionaries and ,jonathan ascended a hill1 from which a great tract of country might be overlooked4 ,it was full of wood1 as far as the eye could reach4 ,near the inlet some places seemed boggy1 or covered with grass4 ,from hence a valley stretched into the country1 with a small lake in it1 about two or three miles distant4 ,berries were every where in abundance4 ,the summits of the hills had no wood upon them1 but much reindeer-moss4 ,on our return1 being about a mile from our landing-place1 we saw our skin-boat in the middle of the bay1 and fired a gun as a signal for it to come to us4 ,the ,esquimaux had five rein-deer in the boat1 which ,uttakiyok had perceived on the opposite bank4 ,he had followed them in his kayak1 driven them into the water1 and killed them there4 ,when hard pressed1 reindeer soon take to the water1 and swim so well1 that a four-oared boat can scarcely come up with them1 but an ,esquimaux1 in his kayak will overtake them4 ,they therefore1 if possible1 drive them into the water1 being then sure of their game4 ,after dining on part of the venison1 we returned to the great boat4 ,on the passage1 we thought we perceived at a considerable distance a black bear1 and ,uttakiyok1 elated with his recent success1 hoped to gain new laurels4 ,he entered his kayak and proceeded as cautiously as possible along the shore1 towards the spot1 landed1 climbed the hill1 so as not to be observed1 but when he had got just within gun-shot1 perceived1 that his bear was a black stone4 ,this adventure furnished the company with merriment for the remainder of the voyage to the boat1 which we reached about six ,p4,m4 ,when we got on board the boat1 we found that all the women had taken refuge in it1 thinking that they had seen ,indians onshore4 ,the men therefore immediately landed1 to take care of the forsaken tents4 ,this was no doubt a false alarm1 for we never discovered any traces of them during our stay4 ,to the south of ,hopedale the ,indians and ,esquimaux sometimes meet1 but as the ,hopedale ,esquimaux seek to cultivate their friendship1 quarrels and bloodshed seldom occur4 ,in ,ungava1 however1 though they often exchange tokens of friendship1 they are apt to give way to their national jealousies2 and provocations being aggravated1 their meetings now and then terminate in murder4 ,the ,esquimaux are much afraid of the ,indians1 who are a more nimble and active race4 #abth4 ,having finished reconnoitring the neighbourhood1 and gathered all the information concerning it1 which our means would permit1 and likewise fixed upon the green slope or terrace above described1 as the most suitable place for a settlement1 on account of the abundance of wood in its neighbourhood1 we made preparations to proceed4 ,uttakiyok1 who had spent more than one winter in the ,ungava country1 assured us1 that there was here an ample supply of provisions1 both in summer and winter1 which ,jonathan also credited1 from his own observation4 ,the former likewise expressed himself convinced1 that if we would form a settlement here1 many ,esquimaux would come to us from all parts4 ,we ourselves were satisfied that ,europeans might find the means of existence in this place1 as it was accessible for ships1 and had wood and water in plenty4 ,as for ,esquimaux1 there appeared no want of those things upon which they live1 the sea abounding with whitefish1 seals1 sea fowl1 c4 and the land with reindeer1 hares1 bears1 and other animals4 ,the people from ,killinek declared their intention of removing hither1 if we would come and dwell among them1 and are even now in the habit of visiting this place every summer4 ,our own company even expressed a wish to spend the winter here4 ,this being the day before our departure1 we erected1 on two opposite hills1 at the entrance of the bay1 high marks of stones1 and on the declivity of a hill to the right1 a board1 into which we had cut an inscription1 thus-- ,illustration3 ,in front1 ,georgius ,,iii4 ,rex4 ,societas ,unitatis ,fratrum4 ,illustration3 ,at the back4 ,benjamin ,kohlmeister1 ,george ,kmoch1 ,aug4 #g1 #ahaa4 ,the day of our arrival4 ,we raised and fixed this tablet with some solemnity1 in presence of ,uttakiyok and his family1 as representatives of the people of ,ungava1 and of our own company1 and hoisted the ,british flag alongside of it1 while another was displayed at the same time in the boat4 ,we explained the cause of this ceremony to all present1 to the following effect-- ,that we1 on this day1 raised this sign1 in the name of our king1 ,george ,,iii4 the great monarch of all these territories1 in testimony of our having explored it1 and made choice of it1 in case we or our ,brethren should think proper to settle here4 ,to which we called upon all present to bear witness4 ,we then proclaimed the name of the ,kangertlualuksoak to be henceforth ,george ,river1 upon which every man fired his piece three times1 the vollies being answered from the boat4 ,the texts of scripture appointed for this day were then read1 and we remarked how encouraging they were1 as relating to the purpose1 for which we visited these unknown regions3 ,from the rising of the sun1 even to the going down of the same1 my name shall be great among the ,gentiles1 saith the ,lord of ,hosts6 ,mal4 #aa1 #a4 ,at the name of ,jesus every knee shall bow1 of things in heaven1 and things in earth1 and things under the earth2 and every tongue shall confess1 that ,jesus ,christ is ,lord1 to the glory of ,god the ,father6 ,philippians1 #b1 #aj1 #aa4 ,after the ceremony was over1 we distributed some pease1 bread1 and beer among the ,esquimaux1 which enabled them to make a splendid feast1 and the day was spent in the most agreeable manner4 #acth4 ,we set sail1 about six ,a4,m4 with a gentle breeze1 which however soon fell away entirely1 and obliged us to take to our oars4 ,near the mouth of the bay1 we met several kayaks1 coming towards us4 ,they were ,esquimaux from ,killinek1 who expressed regret at not having sooner heard of our being here2 some came on board1 and traded with our people4 ,we presented them with a little tobacco1 for which they were very thankful4 ,in order to get well out of the bay1 we first steered ,north1 and then passed to the ,s4,w4 between a peninsula ,nauyat1 lying to the left of the entrance1 and seven small islands and rocks on the right1 towards the island of ,arvarvik1 about six or seven miles distant1 where we were obliged to cast anchor in an exposed situation1 the wind having become contrary4 ,there was a strong swell during the night1 which violently agitated our boat4 ,arvarvik is about five miles in circumference4 ,it is covered with the bones of whales1 which the ,esquimaux catch here in their kayaks4 ,the coast is surrounded by a great number of small low islands1 with deep pools between them4 ,into these the whales stray at high water1 and at the ebbing of the tide1 are prevented finding their way back again4 ,the ,esquimaux then pursue and kill them with harpoons4 ,in the island are ponds of fresh water1 and some low hills1 overgrown with moss4 ,a great number of sea-fowl1 and also reindeer1 are found upon it4 ,on the shore we found great quantities of a red jasper1 or iron-stone1 the same which occurs throughout the coast1 from ,killinek to ,south river1 not as a stratum1 but in lumps1 and generally below high water mark4 ,the ,esquimaux who landed on the continent reported1 that about two miles inland1 there was much low wood4 #adth4 ,we left our unpleasant anchorage1 and returned to a place where the skin-boat had lain during the night1 as it was sheltered from the ,south wind1 which had risen considerably4 #aeth4 ,our people went out to hunt reindeer1 and returned in the evening with two4 ,the wind shifted to the west1 and blew with violence4 ,we spent again an uneasy night4 #afth4 ,brother ,kmoch went on shore and returned with a parcel of stones for examination4 ,we now began to feel some anxiety on account of the great loss of time we were suffering here by contrary winds4 #agth4 ,about eight o'clock we set sail1 the wind having come round to the ,s4,e4 with a cloudy sky4 ,we passed several nameless islands1 at the distance of about a mile from the shore4 ,in the afternoon1 it began to rain hard1 and after having sailed about twelve miles1 we cast anchor near a long point of land1 called ,kernertut1 by which we were sheltered from the wind1 which had again turned to the ,south-west4 ,the sky however was clear1 and the beginning of the night pleasant1 with beautiful appearances of the ,aurora ,borealis4 ,most of our people1 and with them ,uttakiyok1 had gone in the skin-boat higher up the bay1 but it was too shallow to admit of our following them4 ,only ,jonas and his children1 and the two boys ,okkiksuk and ,mammak1 were left with us on board4 ,during the night the wind veered round to the ,n4,e4 and blew a gale1 which increased in violence till day-break4 #ahth4 ,the sea now rose to a tremendous height1 such as we had never before experienced1 and by the change of wind1 we were exposed to the whole of its fury4 ,the rain fell in torrents4 ,we lay at three anchors1 and the boat was tossed about terribly1 the sea frequently breaking quite over her1 insomuch that we expected every moment to be swallowed up in the abyss4 ,with much difficulty we succeeded in lowering our after-mast4 ,jonathan and the rest of our company on shore1 were obliged to be passive spectators of the dreadful scene1 waiting the event in silent anguish4 ,they quitted their tents1 and came forward to some eminences near the beach1 where1 by lifting up their hands1 and other gestures1 they expressed terror1 bordering on despair4 ,frequently the boat was hid from their view by the waves1 which ran mountains high4 ,they expected every moment that we should break loose from our anchors1 and the boat be driven on the rocks4 ,the length of our cables was here of the greatest advantage to us4 ,about noon1 the rope by which the small boat was fastened1 broke4 ,she was immediately carried up the bay1 and thrown1 by the violence of the surf1 on the top of a rock1 where she stuck fast1 keel upwards4 ,it was impossible to render us any assistance1 till the tide turned1 when the raging of the sea1 and the wind1 began to abate4 ,as soon as it was practicable1 ,jonathan and the other men came to us in the skin-boat4 ,he seemed quite overcome with joy1 and1 not able to utter a word1 held out his hand1 and shed tears of gratitude that he met us again alive1 for he had given us up for lost4 ,we now endeavoured to bring the great boat closer to the shore1 landed1 pitched our tent1 and gave thanks to ,god for the merciful deliverance we had just experienced4 ,indeed all our people most fervently joined in praise to ,him for the preservation of our lives4 ,a warm dinner was soon prepared1 by which we were much refreshed4 ,as soon as the tide had ebbed sufficiently for it1 our people went to the rock1 on which the small boat lay1 and got her into the water4 ,to our great surprize we found1 that she had received no material injury4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,doubts expressed by ,jonathan and the other ,esquimaux on the expediency of continuing the voyage4 ,consultations4 ,resolve to proceed4 ,thunder-storm at ,pitsiolak4 ,account of ,indians4 ,esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts4 ,arrival in the river ,koksoak4 ,jonathan and ,jonas now became more and more anxious about our situation4 ,they represented to us1 that1 if we attempted to proceed farther1 we might probably be compelled to remain here the whole winter1 as the stormy season was fast approaching4 ,they added1 that to them1 it would be of little consequence1 but that they were concerned on our account4 ,though we had not said any thing as yet that might tend to shake the confidence of our party1 yet we felt no small degree of perplexity concerning present appearances4 ,during the six days since we left ,george's ,river1 we had made little more than fourteen or fifteen miles1 and were at least1 as far as we could judge1 seventy or eighty from the river ,koksoak1 which we had fixed upon as the final object of the voyage1 being the outermost western boundary of the ,ungava country4 ,insurmountable difficulties seemed now to present themselves1 owing partly to contrary winds and cold weather1 and partly to loss of time1 for we had been already two months on the voyage1 and had not yet obtained our aim3 so that our return might be unseasonably late1 if we proceeded4 ,we could not possibly make up our minds to spend the winter here1 as we had not a sufficient supply of provisions1 and knew what distress it would occasion to our ,brethren at ,okkak4 ,we felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma1 and our path seemed enveloped in obscurity4 ,we remembered1 that to the upright there ariseth a light in the darkness1 7,ps4 #aab1 #d73 that is1 to them who fear and trust in the ,lord1 and sincerely desire to know and do ,his will1 ,he will reveal it4 ,in ,his name we had entered upon this voyage1 the only ultimate object of which was1 the conversion of a benighted1 neglected nation1 in one of the remotest corners of the earth4 ,we were1 therefore1 sure that ,he would not forsake us1 nor leave us in uncertainty as to ,his will concerning us1 but that ,he1 whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole earth1 to shew ,himself strong in the behalf of them whose heart is perfect towards ,him1 7#b ,chron4 #af1 #i47 was1 even in this desolate region1 present with us1 and would hear and answer our prayers4 ,many comfortable texts of scripture occurred to our minds on this occasion1 filling us with an extraordinary degree of faith and confidence in ,him1 particularly such as1 ,he will be very gracious unto thee at the voice of thy cry2 when ,he shall hear it1 ,he will answer thee1 ,isa4 #cj1 #ai4 ,also1 ,dan4 #aj1 #ai2 ,jer4 #af1 #ba2 ,isa4 #dc1 #b1 c4 ,the mercies1 also1 which we had already experienced1 excited within us a sense of the deepest gratitude and most firm trust2 and we therefore told our people1 that we indeed participated in their concern1 would take the subject into serious consideration1 and acquaint them with our determination on the morrow4 #aith4 ,in the morning we met in our tent1 where we were safe from the intrusion of the ,esquimaux1 to confer together upon this most important subject4 ,we weighed all the circumstances connected with it1 maturely and impartially1 as in the presence of ,god1 and1 not being able to come to any decision1 where reasons for and against the question seemed to hold such an even balance1 we determined to commit our case to ,him1 who has promised1 that if two of ,his people shall agree on earth1 as touching any thing that they shall ask1 it shall be done for them1 7,matth4 #ah1 #ai47 and1 kneeling down1 entreated ,him to hear our prayers and supplications in this our distressed and embarrassing situation1 and to make known to us ,his will concerning our future proceedings1 whether we should persevere in fulfilling the whole aim of our voyage1 or1 prevented by circumstances1 give up a part1 and return home from this place4 ,the peace of ,god which filled our hearts on this memorable occasion1 and the strong conviction wrought in us both1 that we should persevere1 in ,his name1 to fulfil the whole of our commission1 relying without fear on ,his help and preservation1 no words can describe2 but those who believe in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of ,jesus1 given to ,his poor followers and disciples1 will understand us1 when we declare1 that we were assured1 that it was the will of ,god our ,saviour1 that we should not now return and leave our work unfinished1 but proceed to the end of our proposed voyage4 ,each of us communicated to his brother the conviction of his heart1 all fears and doubts vanished1 and we were filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obedience to it1 in the strength of the ,lord4 ,o that all men knew the comfort and happiness of a mind devoted unto1 and firmly trusting in ,god in all things6 ,when we made known our determination to ,jonathan and his son ,jonas1 and told them1 that we had maturely considered the subject committed by them to us1 and that1 in answer to our prayers1 the ,lord had convinced us1 that1 not having obtained the aim of our voyage1 we should proceed1 ,jonas1 at first1 seemed not quite satisfied1 but our excellent captain1 ,jonathan1 without hesitation replied3 ,yes1 that is also my conviction6 ,we will go whither ,jesus directs us4 ,he will bring us safe to our journey's end1 and safe home again4 ,we were1 indeed1 glad and thankful that the ,lord had inclined the heart of this man1 who but yesterday seemed to be quite dispirited1 to take this resolution1 for much depended upon him1 and the rest followed him without difficulty4 ,indeed they all submitted to our determination with a willing mind1 and their expressions of resignation affected us much4 ,during the day1 the men had been out a-hunting1 when ,uttakiyok killed three reindeer1 which occasioned great rejoicing1 and helped to make our people forget the frightful scenes of yesterday4 ,the country is full of black looking rocks1 between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in plenty4 ,the shore exhibited still many marks of the violence of the storm4 #bjth4 ,we proceeded with a favourable wind at ,n4,e4 ,our course lay ,s4,w4 across a broad bay1 then1 after doubling a point1 across another bay of about the same breadth1 to an island ,allukpaluk1 which we passed on the right1 and on the left1 another island1 ,nipkotok4 ,at a considerable distance a-head lay the islands ,pitsiolak1 opposite a headland of the continent called ,tuktutok4 ,the sky had been from the morning cloudy1 the wind became unfavourable and violent1 and about noon heavy rain came on4 ,not being well able to proceed1 on account of the violence of the wind1 we cast anchor on the west side of ,pitsiolak1 about #b ,p4,m4 but perceiving a thunderstorm rising from the western horizon1 with very black clouds1 threatening to drive us on shore if we remained at this anchorage1 we weighed as quickly as possible1 and endeavoured to get to the other side of the island4 ,meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder1 lightning1 and rain overtook us4 ,the claps of thunder followed the flashes without interval1 and the lightning seemed to strike into the water close to our boat1 while the wind carried the spray into the air like smoke4 ,providentially we had doubled the northern point before the worst came on1 and got to an anchor under shelter of the land4 ,the storm passed by swiftly1 it grew calm1 the sun broke out1 and the weather became uncommonly fine with us1 though at a distance we saw the black clouds1 and heard the hollow murmuring of the thunder for a long time4 ,we now expected to have a comfortable night's rest1 but it grew intensely cold1 and again began to blow violently from the west4 ,the strong current and heavy swell brought us into some danger1 and the poor people1 who were obliged to remain on deck all night1 suffered much from cold and wet4 ,when the tide was full1 about midnight1 the island we had seen to the west nearly vanished1 the greater part being covered with water4 #bast4 ,in the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying upon a pretty high rock1 and a tent pitched close to it4 ,the weather was calm1 but the wind contrary4 ,our ,esquimaux made good use of this respite to refresh themselves after the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a sound nap4 ,in the afternoon we landed4 ,the island ,pitsiolak1 which forms two at high water1 is low and flat1 overgrown with ,empetrum and ,rubus ,chamoemorus1 7,akpik-berries74 ,quantities of driftwood float about the shores4 ,the jasper occurred here again4 ,this island may be about four or five miles long1 and1 at low water1 is connected with other islands to the north4 ,by the help of our glasses we could perceive woods on the continent1 and the ,esquimaux thought they discovered the smoke of ,indian fires4 ,they are much afraid of meeting these people4 ,bloody encounters occasionally occur between them4 ,the ,indians come from the interior1 and from ,hudson's ,bay1 and are frequently seen near the two principal rivers1 ,george river and ,south river1 towards which we were going2 but we met with none4 ,brother ,kohlmeister rather wished for it1 as some of them are said to understand ,english1 and he was desirous of endeavouring to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the ,esquimaux1 by friendly conversation4 #bb;d4 ,we found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us4 ,without being obliged to take that in tow1 we might have kept at a greater distance from the shore1 which would have enabled us to get on more rapidly1 and with greater safety4 ,on shore we found a great quantity of cubical pyrites in a grey matrix4 ,the ,esquimaux are attentive to this mineral1 and have before now brought it to ,okkak4 #bc;d4 ,we proceeded at #f ,a4,m4 and steered for the island of ,saeglorsoak4 ,the islands called ,nocharutsit lay on our left4 ,they are a group of numerous small islands1 many of which are overflowed at high water1 extending ,w4 and ,e4 towards the entrance of ,south river4 ,between these islands and ,akpatok1 the sea is said to be clear of rocks1 and the water of sufficient depth for any ship entering from ,hudson's ,straits1 and bound to the ,koksoak1 or ,south river2 but no ship durst1 in our opinion1 venture to approach the coast of ,ungava within twenty or thirty miles4 ,in the afternoon1 the tide turning against us1 and the wind unfavourable1 we were obliged to come to an anchor among the islands4 ,we had left the skin-boat behind1 with ,thukkekina1 ,uttakiyok's brother ,annoray1 and one of his wives1 to whom he had given his baggage in charge4 ,the ,esquimaux wives are very punctilious1 the first always maintains the highest dignity1 regulates the housekeeping1 distributes the provisions1 and directs everything1 as mistress of the family4 ,jonas went out in his kayak1 and shot a seal4 ,we saw many1 and fired at them1 but got none4 ,whitefish were likewise seen at a distance4 ,uttakiyok and ,david were out in their kayaks1 and joined us in the evening loaded with geese4 ,on the turn of the tide we proceeded1 and at ten ,p4,m4 cast anchor among the ,nocharutsits1 under a pretty high island1 about three or four miles in circumference4 ,all our people remained on board during the night1 which was calm and pleasant4 #bdth4 ,david roused us about five o'clock1 by firing at a seal1 which he killed4 ,the women went on shore to cook it with some geese4 ,when they returned1 we all breakfasted on the contents of their pot4 ,the ,esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage their kitchen affairs4 ,the meat is boiled with the blood in it1 and the addition of some water4 ,when it is sufficiently done1 that is1 according the ,ungava custom1 when half warm1 the women take it out of the pot1 and serve it up on a piece of stone1 if on shore1 and on a piece of board1 if at sea4 ,then the person1 who has caught the seal or game1 proclaims with great vociferation1 that the men may come and sit down to eat4 ,such exertion of voice1 however1 seems hardly necessary1 as the ,esquimaux are very acute at hearing1 when they are invited to dinner4 ,when the men have done1 the women sit down1 having taken good care1 beforehand1 that their share is secured4 ,the ,esquimaux customs never permit men and women to sit down together at a meal4 ,it sometimes happens among the heathen ,esquimaux1 that several having had good success1 one huntsman's feast is hardly over1 before another proclaims the invitation to his banquet4 ,this is never suffered to pass unnoticed1 while the power of cramming down another morsel remains4 ,thus they will continue eating1 till they are scarcely able to breathe1 and then lie down to sleep off the effects of their gluttony4 ,indeed their excessive voraciousness on such occasions produces1 especially after long fasting1 all the symptoms of drunkenness4 ,they forget1 under its sensual influence1 all moderation1 and abandon themselves to the most disgusting abominations4 ,in the afternoon we steered ,w4 by ,n4 7wind ,n4,e471 for the cape of ,kernerauyak1 at the east side of the entrance of the river ,koksoak1 7,sand river74 ,before we arrived at the cape1 we left some islands to the ,south1 the largest of which is again called ,kikkertarsoak4 ,saeglorsoak1 is a large flat island1 about eight or ten miles long1 and its neighbourhood very dangerous1 on account of many sunken rocks4 ,the continent hereabouts is well wooded1 and ,indians are said to be frequently seen in the interior4 ,the mouth of the ,koksoak is seven or eight ,english miles broad3 its shores steep1 but the rocks in general low1 and covered with moss4 ,the ,esquimaux say1 that in the middle there is water enough for any large ship1 though the tides prevent any near approach to the land4 ,at sunset we came to an anchor at the mouth of the river4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,sail up the river ,koksoak4 ,transactions in that region4 ,dangerous eddy4 ,meet ,esquimaux4 ,address to them4 ,their joy and eagerness to have ,missionaries1 resident among them4 ,find a suitable situation for a settlement4 ,description of the country4 ,august #beth4--,this was the joyful day on which at last we saw our hopes realized1 and the principal aim of our journey obtained4 ,the sun rose beautifully1 and announced a delightful day4 ,we were obliged to wait till seven ,a4,m4 for the turn of the tide1 before we could proceed up the river4 ,the estuary of the ,koksoak lies1 according to an observation taken1 in #eh deg4 #cf' ,n4 latitude1 nearly the same as ,okkak4 ,to the west the country is called by the ,esquimaux ,assokak1 the coast turning again ,w4,n4,w4 ,this river1 therefore1 seems to be at the most southern point of the coast1 ,george's river entering the sea at #eh deg4 #eb'1 consequently more ,north4 ,the ,koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the ,thames at ,gravesend1 or the ,elbe near ,hamburg1 and the whole river1 with its various windings1 much resembles the ,thames for twenty-four miles upwards4 ,its depth is sufficient for a ship thus far4 ,its general direction is from the ,south4 ,we reckoned it to be about #fjj or #gjj miles from ,okkak1 and ,killinek or ,cape ,chudleigh half way4 ,having proceeded five or six miles up the river1 we came to a small island1 which we left on our right4 ,we saw several sacks of blubber1 a sledge1 and some other1 articles lying on the beach1 and ,jonathan and ,brother ,kmoch went in the small boat to discover the proprietors1 but found nobody there1 to guard the goods4 ,a little farther on is a point of land running out into nearly the middle of the stream4 ,the current sets very rapidly round it1 so as to form a dangerous eddy4 ,our boat was seized1 and twice turned quite round2 the small boat was whirled about several times1 as she pushed through it4 ,the women on board our boat1 on seeing this1 set up a loud scream2 but ,jonathan only laughed at their fears1 and we afterwards saw kayaks passing the eddy in perfect safety4 ,having doubled the point1 we perceived several kayaks approaching4 ,the people in them shouted aloud for joy1 exclaiming1 ,innuit1 ,innuit6 ,men1 ,men6 ,some guns were also fired in the boat1 which were soon answered by some fowling-pieces from the shore4 ,we now saw three tents pitched on the bank1 and hoisted our colours1 when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabitants4 ,there was a general cry of ,kuve1 ,kuve1 ,kablunaet1 ,kablunaet6 ,europeans1 ,europeans6 from the men in the kayaks1 who1 by all manner of gesticulations1 expressed their pleasure1 brandishing their pautiks1 7oars71 and shouting continually as they rowed alongside the boat4 ,the women on shore answered with loud acclamations4 ,about one ,p4,m4 we cast anchor close to their habitations4 ,fourteen families were here1 among whom were some from a distant district1 called ,eivektok4 ,these had pitched their tents farther up the river4 ,arnauyak was with them1 a man1 with whom ,brother ,kohlmeister had become acquainted some years ago1 exceedingly regretted1 that he had but a few days ago left the place1 to hunt reindeer on ,george's river4 ,the children expressed their joy by running to and fro on the strand1 like wild creatures4 ,at first1 the people in the tents appeared rather shy1 but after accepting of some trifling presents1 they became quite communicative1 and gave us some of their toys in exchange2 then walking round us1 surveyed us narrowly1 as if we were a new species of animals4 ,most of them had never before seen an ,european4 ,uttakiyok's brother had joined them1 and already informed them of our arrival1 without which they would probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing strangers1 and hearing the report of fire-arms4 ,they now invited all our people to dine with them1 and having heard that ,brother ,kohlmeister would like to taste the flesh of a whitefish1 a kettle was immediately placed on the fire1 and a large piece put in to boil4 ,brother ,kmoch meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds1 and reindeer-flesh1 more fit for an ,european stomach4 ,while dinner was preparing1 ,brother ,kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of the river1 and across some hills4 ,as the families belonging to ,eivektok had their summer dwelling in that neighbourhood1 the ,esquimaux1 on perceiving that he had walked in that direction1 and fearing that the ,eivektok people1 seeing him alone1 might mistake him for an ,indian1 and shoot at him1 dispatched two men to bring him back4 ,they missed him1 and he returned before them4 ,he found our people very pleasantly conversing with the heathen concerning the aim of our journey1 and the way of salvation4 ,even ,uttakiyok was thus engaged1 explaining1 as well as he could1 the cause of our living in ,labrador3 he exclaimed1 let us1 my friends1 all be converted to ,jesus4 ,he was heard with peculiar attention1 being considered as a captain among them4 ,in the evening we sang hymns in ,jonathan's tent4 ,the people all came and listened with much seriousness4 #bfth4 ,to-day the ,eivektok families came in a skin-boat down the river1 to see us4 ,they were full of astonishment1 but soon took courage1 and handled us1 to discover whether we were made of the same materials with themselves4 ,an old man1 ,netsiak1 addressed ,brother ,kohlmeister3 ,are you ,benjamin8 ,i have never seen you with my eyes1 but at ,eivektok have heard your name often mentioned4 ,he seemed to be a sensible man1 and a captain among his tribe4 ,we could not help remarking the difference between these ,esquimaux and their countrymen living on the same coasts with our settlements4 ,the former are very poor1 and miserably equipped1 whereas the latter1 by their intercourse with us and other ,europeans1 have acquired many conveniences1 and are1 by barter1 well provided with what they want4 #bgth4 ,we proceeded farther up the river1 accompanied by most of the men1 and some women1 in their skin-boat1 and arrived at a bay1 which1 by the winding of the stream1 appears like a lake1 surrounded on all sides with gently rising grounds1 well planted with wood of moderate size1 chiefly larch4 ,behind the wood are some low hills4 ,we named this place ,unity's ,bay4 ,there is here a very good place for a ,missionary settlement4 ,a fine slope extends for about half an ,english mile1 bounded on each extremity by a hill1 on each of which we erected high signals4 ,the land is even and dry4 ,juniper1 currants1 and other berries1 grow here in abundance1 and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of a few hundred paces from each other4 ,the slope faces the ,s4,s4,e4 and we named it ,pilgerruh1 7,pilgrim's rest74 ,brother ,kohlmeister made drawings of the situation4 ,from our first arrival we had improved every opportunity of making the ,esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our visit to this country1 and addressed them both singly and in companies4 ,nor were ,jonathan and ,jonas remiss in conversing with them about the concerns of their immortal souls1 declaring to them the love of ,god our ,saviour towards them4 ,we once met with ,sybilla1 ,jonathan's wife1 seated with a company of women1 under the shadow of a skin-boat1 set on edge1 exhorting them1 with great simplicity and fervour1 to hear and believe the gospel4 #bhth4 ,brother ,kmoch landed with ,jonathan1 and spent some hours in examining the banks of the river4 ,on ascending the first eminence1 the view of the interior is in general flat1 with a few low hills1 and ponds in some places1 full of wild geese4 ,the timber in the woods hereabouts is not large3 we found none fit for masts4 ,the largest trees were not more than eight inches in diameter1 and fifteen or twenty feet high4 ,they are chiefly larch and pines4 ,in some places we found them burnt or withered1 and were informed by the ,esquimaux1 that it was the effect of the ,indian's fires4 ,indeed we saw several places where the ,indians had put up huts1 and left sufficient vestiges of their abode4 ,berries grow everywhere1 and between the river and the wood1 the plain is chiefly covered with willows1 high grass growing between them1 but these and the various shrubs are so low1 that a man can easily look over them4 ,in all directions we saw the tracks of reindeer1 and there is every appearance of its being a place much frequented by these animals4 ,deeper in the wood1 we found great quantities of sorrel and other ,european plants4 ,the woods appeared very thick1 and extended as far as the eye could reach1 often coming down to the edge of the river4 ,the ,esquimaux say1 that higher up1 large timber is found4 ,on our return to the skin-boat we found ourselves pretty much fatigued1 and ready to partake of a supper1 cooked by the ,esquimaux1 consisting of ship's biscuit1 dried fish1 and raw whitefish blubber4 ,the ,esquimaux prevailed upon ,brother ,kmoch to taste the latter1 and he reported1 that having once overcome his aversion to it1 its taste was sweet1 like the kernel of a nut1 but heated his stomach like a hot posset4 #bith4 ,changeable and rainy weather prevented us from going out much4 #cjth4 ,our people1 and with them the strange ,esquimaux1 met for public worship4 ,brother ,kohlmeister once more explained to them our intention in coming thus far to visit them4 ,he addressed them to the following effect3 ,that already1 many years ago1 many excellent people in the country beyond the great ocean1 had thought of them with much love1 and felt desirous that the inhabitants of the ,ungava country also might hear the comfortable word of ,god1 and be instructed in it3 for they had heard that the ,esquimaux here were heathen1 who1 through ignorance1 served the ,torngak1 or evil spirit1 and were led by him into the commission of all manner of sin1 that they might hereafter be lost1 and go to the place of eternal darkness and misery4 ,out of love1 therefore1 continued the missionary1 they have sent us to you1 and out of love we have come to you1 to tell you how you may be saved1 and become happy1 peaceful children of ,god1 being delivered from the fear of death1 which is now upon you all1 and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace hereafter1 even by receiving the gospel1 and turning to ,jesus1 who is the only ,creator and ,saviour of all men4 ,he died for your sins1 for our sins1 and for the sins of all mankind1 as our surety1 suffering the punishment we deserved1 that you1 by receiving ,him1 and believing on ,him1 might be saved1 and not go to the place of eternal darkness and pain1 but to the place of bliss and eternal rest4 ,you cannot yet understand these comfortable words of the gospel1 but if it is your sincere wish to know the truth of them1 ,jesus will open your ears and hearts1 to hear and understand them4 ,these my companions were as ignorant as you1 but they now thank ,god1 that they know ,jesus as their ,saviour1 and are assured that through ,his death they shall inherit everlasting life4 ,during this address all were silent and very attentive4 ,some exclaimed3 ,o we desire to hear more about it6 ,old ,netsiak1 from ,eivektok1 said3 ,i am indeed old1 but if you come to live here1 ,i will certainly remove hither also2 and live with you and be converted4 ,when we put the question to them1 whether they were willing1 that we should come and dwell with them1 and instruct them1 they all answered with a loud and cheerful voice4 ,kaititse tok1 ,kaititse tok6 ,o do come soon1 and live with us1 we will all gladly be converted1 and live with you4 ,jonathan and ,jonas also bore ample testimony to the truth of what we had spoken1 and their words seemed to make a deep impression on all their countrymen4 ,uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish that we might soon make a settlement in the ,ungava country4 ,five of the fourteen families who mean to reside here next winter1 are from ,eivektok4 ,farther inland1 the river ,koksoak widens considerably1 but consequently grows more shallow4 ,the country is pleasant1 with wood1 grassy plains1 and gentle hills4 #cast4 ,having finished all our observations here1 we dropped down the stream to the place1 where we had discovered the first tents4 ,in descending1 as well as ascending the river1 we saw a great number of whitefish1 and many seals4 ,reindeer are numerous on both shores1 both in summer and winter4 ,all the ,esquimaux declared1 that this was the best provision-place in the whole country1 and they consequently flock to it from all parts every summer1 frequently protracting their stay during the winter4 ,the greater number of those we found here1 purposed spending next winter in this neighbourhood4 ,the ,esquimaux are prevented from making this place their constant residence by their fear of the land-,indians1 which cause them to quit it sooner than they otherwise would wish to do4 ,we spared no pains to collect all the information we possibly could obtain1 on every subject relating to this situation1 both as to itself1 and in reference to the possibility of approaching it with a ship1 as likewise respecting the inhabitants of the ,ungava country in general4 ,it appeared evident1 that the place above described is the most eligible for forming a missionary-settlement4 ,we found it unnecessary to proceed to the ,westward1 by the account given us by our worthy conductor ,uttakiyok1 whose information hitherto we had always found correct1 and confidently to be relied on4 ,he reported3 #a4 ,that farther ,west no wood is to be found on the coast4 #b4 ,that besides the two rivers ,kangertlualuksoak and ,koksoak1 they knew of no place where a ship might with safety approach the land4 #c4 ,that at this time we should probably find no inhabitants1 as they had all gone into the interior to hunt reindeer4 ,we therefore now considered the business committed to us to be accomplished1 and determined to return to ,okkak1 thankful to ,god our ,saviour for the many proofs of ,his favour1 and protection1 experienced in the execution of our commission4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,return to ,okkak4 ,september #ast4--,at ten ,a4,m4 we fell down the river with the ebb-tide1 and about noon anchored near its mouth4 ,the ,esquimaux showed great attachment to us1 and could hardly resolve to take a final leave4 ,they called after us1 ,come soon again1 we shall always be wishing for you4 ,several of them1 and among them our friend ,uttakiyok1 followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river4 ,we erected here1 on the promontory ,kernerauyak1 a board with an inscription similar to that put up at ,george river1 but with the day of our departure inserted1 viz4 ,sept4 #ast1 instead of the day of our arrival1 ,aug4 #gth4 ,the same solemnities took place as on the former occasion4 ,our faithful pilot ,uttakiyok1 who had rendered us such important and essential services1 now took leave of us1 as he intends to spend the winter in this neighbourhood4 ,he repeated his assurance1 that if we settled here1 he would be the first to join us1 and to turn with his whole heart to ,god4 ,not willing to be any longer incumbered with the skin-boat1 we added it to other useful articles given to ,uttakiyok1 as a reward for his faithful attention to us4 ,he was very highly gratified1 and thankful for this species of remuneration4 #b;d4 ,left the ,koksoak1 called by us1 ,south river1 and steered to the ,n4 of ,kernerauyak and ,kikkertorsoak4 ,in the evening we cast anchor in an open road1 among the ,nachorutsit islands1 with fine weather4 #c;d4 ,set sail at sun-rise1 wind and tide in our favour1 and proceeded rapidly4 ,about noon1 however1 a fog came on1 which obliged us to come to an anchor at ,pitsiolak4 ,when it cleared up1 we proceeded1 steering between ,allukpalak and ,nipkotok1 and cast anchor in the open sea1 near ,kernertut1 where1 on our first arrival1 we encountered such a tremendous storm4 ,the night proved quite calm and fair4 #dth4 ,a gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the island ,nauyet1 at the mouth of the ,kangertlualuksoak1 where we cast anchor1 having performed the same voyage in three days1 which took us twelve on our former passage4 ,the distance may be about #ajj ,english miles4 #eth4 ,landed1 and erected a species of landmark1 on the highest point of ,nauyet1 as a ship entering the river must keep near this island1 the shore on the other side being very foul4 ,contrary winds now obliged us to enter the bay1 and cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on the #ith of ,august4 #fth4 ,storm and rain prevented our proceeding4 ,the ,esquimaux went on shore1 and pitched their tent4 ,of late they generally spent the night on board the boat4 #gth4 ,wind at ,w4 but a heavy swell from the sea prevented our sailing4 ,our men went out to hunt1 and ,paul returned in the evening with a deer4 #hth4 ,snow had fallen during the night1 and the whole country had the appearance of the middle of winter4 ,we dropped down with the ebb-tide1 but were obliged to anchor again near the entrance of the bay4 ,when the tide turned we proceeded1 and1 leaving ,kikkertorsoak to the right1 made for cape ,kattaktok1 where we spent the night at anchor among some low islands4 ,the night was clear1 and a comet appeared ,n4 by ,w4 #ith4 ,wind favourable and strong4 ,we set sail at sun-rise1 and steered for ,uibvaksoak1 and so rapidly did our boat make way through the waves1 that we arrived there already at four in the afternoon1 passing swiftly by the ,dragon's dwelling1 7,torngets74 ,a thunder-storm was approaching4 ,the wind1 which felt quite warm1 was in our rear1 and violent gusts assailed us now and then1 which made us shorten sail2 yet the boat seemed to fly from island to island4 ,we were unable to find a safe anchorage till #h ,p4,m4 when it was already dark4 ,we had sailed1 in fourteen hours1 about #ajj ,english miles1 and were all completely wet with the spray of the sea and frequent showers4 ,our ,esquimaux were obliged1 in this condition1 to lie down either on deck or on shore4 #ajth4 ,reached ,omanek1 about #dj or #ej miles sail4 #aath4 ,wind contrary1 with much rain4 ,we were confined to our narrow cabin1 and shut in all day1 with a lamp burning4 #abth4 ,clear weather3 set sail at noon4 ,in the afternoon we were saluted by some shots from ,killinek ,esquimaux1 who were halting not far from the ,ikkerasak1 or straits1 at the entrance of which we cast anchor about #g ,p4,m4 #acth4 ,though we wished to have some conversation with the ,killinek people1 as they cannot often come to ,okkak1 yet we thought it adviseable to lose no time1 and1 with the ebb-tide1 passed through the ,ikkerasak in perfect safety4 ,when1 about #a ,p4,m4 the tide turned1 we ran into a cove on the south side1 and at #e ,p4,m4 anchored in the lagoon above described1 7,see page #dc71 the entrance to which will only admit a boat4 #adth4 ,reached ,oppernavik1 where we first met ,uttakiyok4 #aeth4 ,set sail with a gentle breeze1 which permitted us to have our ,sunday's service on deck4 ,the wind1 however1 soon turning against us1 we were compelled to return to our former anchorage4 #afth and #agth4 ,we were unpleasantly detained by wind and rain1 and on the latter day much snow fell4 #ahth4 ,reached ,kikkertarsoak about #a ,p4,m4 ,our men went out in their kayaks1 and returned in the evening with three seals4 ,the night was fair1 with beautiful appearances of the ,aurora ,borealis4 #aith4 ,the morning was calm3 some indications of approaching storm made us anxious to proceed4 ,we set out early2 but a fog coming on1 we came again to an anchor off a barren island4 ,after staying here two hours1 hoping for a favourable change1 ,jonathan proposed to proceed1 and steered ,s4,w4 not knowing rightly where we were4 ,on this occasion1 we could not help admiring the composure of the ,esquimaux4 ,but having last night made a hearty meal of the provisions they had acquired1 they seemed to take things easy1 and thought it would all be right in the end4 ,so it turned out2 for by and by we saw the continent1 and kept along shore1 till we got to the promontory ,kakkeviak1 where1 on our passage1 we had nearly suffered shipwreck4 7,see page #ch74 ,here we cast anchor in a wide shallow bay1 and spent a quiet night4 #bjth4 ,the fog had dispersed1 and the wind was favourable1 though shifting from ,w4 to ,n4,w4,n4 and ,n4,e4 ,at #g ,p4,m4 we reached ,kumaktorvik and found good anchorage close to the ,esquimaux winter-houses2 but we were disappointed by finding them empty1 the people being probably out on the reindeer-hunt4 ,there were four houses standing1 apparently not old1 and the traces of eight others1 situated on a low point of land1 well covered with grass1 and surrounded by high mountains4 #bast4 ,wind ,n4,w4 set sail by break of day2 reached ,nennoktok about noon1 and steered across ,sangmiyok bay1 for the northern promontory in ,nachvak bay4 ,sangmiyok bay is full of breakers1 and the sea running pretty high1 they appeared very distinctly4 ,the wind dying away in the afternoon1 we got no farther than the steep rocks under which we had spent the night of ,july the #ahth1 where we came to an anchor4 ,a heavy swell from the sea1 and violent gusts of wind assailing us in all directions from the mountains gave us much uneasiness2 but1 by the protecting care of ,god1 we suffered no harm4 #bb;d4 ,it blew hard from the ,n4,w4 and prevented our running into ,nachvak bay4 ,our situation being highly dangerous1 and the wind favouring our proceeding1 we determined to pass by ,nachvak4 ,but having sailed across the bay1 our captain found it impossible to proceed1 and thought proper to come to an anchor4 ,the truth was1 that he had left some articles here in a cove1 which he wished to secure4 ,we therefore went on shore1 and found many fragments of the bones of whales1 whence we inferred that whales are sometimes cast on shore in this place4 #bc;d4 ,a heavy storm came on from the ,n4,w4 ,to-day we caught the first cod-fish1 which proved a very acceptable change of diet for us and our people4 #bdth4 ,the morning was calm4 ,wind ,e4 left the cove and steered for ,nachvak1 and came1 accidentally1 to the very place where ,jonathan's goods were deposited4 ,not perceiving any ,esquimaux on shore1 ,jonathan and ,thukkekina went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them4 ,meanwhile we landed1 and on the declivity of a hill found a great quantity of green soapstone4 ,in the evening ,jonathan and ,thukkekina returned with ten other ,equimaux1 who rejoiced to see us again4 #beth4 ,brother ,kohlmeister was engaged all day with the ,esquimaux4 ,brother ,kmoch went up the mountain1 and brought some fine specimens of steatite4 #bfth4 ,wind strong at ,n4,w4 we set sail2 but the wind failing1 we could not reach ,saeglek1 as proposed1 but spent the night in the open sea4 ,it passed1 however1 without any unpleasant occurrences4 #bgth4 ,the want of wind prevented our getting to-day as far as the ,saeglek islands4 ,having passed through a very narrow ,ikkerasak1 with hardly sufficient depth of water for so large a boat1 we cast anchor near our former station at ,kikkertarsoak4 #bhth4 ,wind cold and changeable1 and towards evening stormy4 #bith4 ,set sail about #f ,a4,m4 with a strong wind at ,w4 and in the evening had reached ,kangertluksoak islands4 #cjth4 ,it blew hard1 with snow1 and we were obliged to spend the day shut up in our small cabin by lamp-light4 ,the land was covered with snow4 ,we were detained here very unpleasantly for three days1 by the violence of the wind and weather4 ,october #c;d4 ,we steered for the promontory of ,kaumayok2 but the wind dying away1 and at length turning to the ,south1 we could not gain any safe harbour1 and were obliged to tack about all night in the open sea4 ,the weather1 however1 was mild1 and we had the advantage of moon-light4 #dth4 ,at #g ,a4,m4 we succeeded in passing the ,northern ,ikkerasak near cape ,mugford with the tide1 and the wind becoming fair1 soon brought us among the ,okkak islands4 ,about noon we doubled cape ,uivak1 and perceived ,esquimaux on shore1 who ran up the hills1 shouted for joy1 and gave us by signs to understand1 that the ship 7the brig ,jemima1 sent annually with provisions to the settlements7 was still at ,okkak4 ,we cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and gratitude to ,god our ,saviour which we felt1 when we again beheld the neighbourhood of ,okkak1 after an absence of fifteen weeks4 ,as soon as the captain descried our boat approaching1 he hoisted his colours1 and fired some guns to give notice of our arrival4 ,as we were obliged to tack1 to gain the entrance to the harbour1 he came to meet us in the ship's boat1 and about one o'clock we landed4 ,the ,missionaries and the ,esquimaux met us with tears of joy and thankfulness1 when we all joined in praise to ,god1 who had so wonderfully kept ,his protecting hand over us during this perilous voyage1 and granted us to return home in safety4 ,our voyage lasted from the #bdth of ,june to the #dth of ,october1 and we calculated it to be a distance of from #abjj to #acjj miles4 ,,benjamin ,,gottlieb ,,kohlmeister4 ,,george ,,kmoch4 ,illustration3 ,the ,northern ,extremity of ,,labrador with ,,ungava ,,bay ,explored by the ,,missionaries of the ,unitas ,fratrum in #ahaa4