,page #a ,,!ory ,,( ,,silk ,,weav+ ,page #c ,,!ory ,,( ,,silk ,,weav+ ,a ,treatise on ! ,con/ruction & ,application ( ,weaves1 & ! ,decomposition & ,calculation ( ,broad & ,n>r[1 ,pla91 ,novelty & ,jacqu>d ,silk ,fabrics ,conta9+ #ie ,plates ,by ,,arnold ,,wolf5sb]g] ,graduate ( ! ,textile ,in/itute ( ,zuri*1 ,switz]l& 99 99 99 99 99 ,second ,revis$ & ,enl>g$ ,edition 99 99 99 99 99 ,,new ,,york ,issu$ by ,,! ,,am]ican ,,silk ,,j\rnal ,,clif=d ,,lawton ,publi%]s #aiba ,page #d 99 99 99 99 99 ,,copyright4 #aiba4 by ,,clif=d ,,lawton ,all rights res]v$ 99 99 99 99 99 ,,groli] ,,craft ,,press1 ,pr9t]s4 #bbi ,we/ ,tw5ty-eigh? ,/reet1 ,new ,york ,city 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #e ,,preface ,! silk indu/ry ( ,am]ica has ( late ye>s rapidly advanc$ to ! front rank among ! great textile indu/ries ( ! _w4 ,x may inde$ be pr\d ( ?is position1 to :i* t ent]pris+ _s & untir+ en]gy peculi> to our nation1 comb9$ ) our great te*nical & natural res\rces1 has br\ght x4 ,t we are1 on ! o!r h&1 n yet at ! height ( p]fection we are also compell$ to ackn[l$ge1 b if we consid] ! %ort space ( "t t ! ,am]ican indu/ry has requir$ = its developm5t1 z comp>$ to ! decades1 almo/ c5turies1 to :i* "s ( ! great ,european silk c5t]s c look back1 ! fact is nei!r surpris+ nor disc\rag+4 ,:ile x mu/ n be our aim to imitate or copy _! ways1 inasmu* z out conditions & circum/ances are q diff]5t f !irs1 we may /ill pr(itably /udy _! me?ods 9 ord] to ov]come our defici5cies4 ,! greate/ advantage :i* our competitors d]ive f su* a long exi/5ce consi/s 9 hav+ at _! disposal a =ce ( skilful1 tra9$ help4 ,! manufactur]s1 appreciat+ ! importance ( ?is factor1 make great ef=ts & pecuni>y sacrifices to elevate & ma9ta9 ! high /&>d ( _! indu/ry4 ,= in/ance1 !y support textile s*ools & lecture c\rses1 :]e "y m5 c acquire a ?or\gh te*nical education & equip !mselves = a c>e] ( usefulness1 !reby s]v+ _! own int]e/s & at ! same "t fur!r+ ^? ( _! *os5 pr(ession4 ,page #f ,?is b5eficial influ5ce _c fail to ex]t itself f ! /&>d ( ! high] employ] d[n to t ( ! weav]1 :o w\ld naturally take m pa9s & int]e/ 9 8 "w ?an if he 7 a m]e me*anical app5dage to 8 loom 9 ord] to keep x 9 motion4 ,v little has be5 done 9 8 c\ntry = te*nical education z f> z ! silk indu/ry is conc]n$1 & x 0 on ?is special bran*1 t prompt$ ! au?or to (f] 9 ! pres5t little "w a treatise on ! !ory ( %aft weav+ = broad silks & ribbons4 ,x is divid$ into ?ree pr9cipal p>ts3 #a/4 ,draw+-9 ! w>p 9 ! h>ness4 #bnd4 ,! weaves & _! application4 #crd4 ,decomposition or analysis ( ! clo?4 ,to ! =ego+ !re h be5 add$ 9 ! revis$ & enl>g$ edition sev]al additional p>ts cov]+ ! foll[+3 ,,jacqu>d ,,weaves1 ,,box ,,loom ,,weaves1 includ+ ,,crepes1 & ,,co/ ,,calculations = pla9 & fancy weaves4 ,! subject :ile cond5s$1 is made z cle> & compreh5sible z possible1 & to _m desir\s ( increas+ _! k 9 ?is direction1 ?is %\ld prove a valuable help4 ,! au?or1 ?r\gh ! m$ium ( ?is "w1 hopes to w9 ! approval & enc\ragem5t ( ! manufactur]s1 & w feel amply repaid %\ld 8 ef=ts t5d to develop a deep] int]e/ 9 ! ,que5 ( ,textiles4 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #g ,,!ory ,,( ,,silk ,,weav+ ,,draw+-,,9 ,) ?is t]m we designate ! op]ation prec$+ ! weav+1 by :i* all ! w>p-?reads are drawn ?r\gh ! h$dles ( ! h>ness4 ,! ord] 9 :i* ?is is done v>ies accord+ to ! weave & ! nature ( ! fabric to be produc$2 s we di/+ui%3 ,/raight draws1 ,skip draws1 ,po9t draws1 ,section draws4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,/raight ,,draws ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a 99 99 99 99 ,page #h ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b ,^! =m ! simple/ & mo/ common me?od ( draw+-94 ,we beg9 ) ! fir/ h$dle on ! left side ( ! %aft ne>e/ to ! w>p-beam1 !n take ! fir/ h$dle ( second %aft & s on until all ! %afts ! set conta9s are us$ 9 rotation4 ,?is completes "o draw1 & ?is op]ation is repeat$ until all ! w>p-?reads are tak5 up4 ,! me?od ( mak+ ! %aft ne>e/ to ! w>p-beam ! fir/1 is almo/ univ]sal ) ! silk bus9ess & is te*nically call$ draw+-9 f back to front4 ,! opposite1 or draw+ 9 f front to re>1 is us$ occasionally1 h[ev]1 & 9 ?is case makes ! fir/ h$dle on ! left h& side ( ! front %aft ,no4 #a4 ,! mak+ out ( ! ,draw+-9 ,draft1 :i* mu/ indicate ! arrangem5t or ! rotation 9 :i* ! w>p-?reads are drawn 91 c be done 9 v>i\s ways1 ( :i* we w m5tion ! two mo/ popul> me?ods4 ,! fir/ is by us+ common design+ pap]1 & indicat+ ! rotation by dots4 ,! horizonal r[s ( squ>es repres5t ! %afts1 ! v]tical r[s ! w>p-?reads4 ,fig4 #a %[s f\r repeats ( a /raight draw on six h>ness m>k$ out accord+ to ?is idea4 ,a second me?od is to use pap] rul$ horizontally1 ! l9es repres5t+ ! %afts2 & to draw v]tical l9es = ! w>p-?reads4 ,! latt] are made to /op on ,page #i ! l9es be>+ ! numb] ( ! %afts into :i* ! respective ?reads are to be drawn4 ,fig4 #b is su* a draft1 illu/rat+ six repeats ( a draw on f\r h>ness f ,front to ,re>4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,skip ,,draws ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d ,! draws com+ "u ?is head+ are us$ v ext5sively 9 silk weav+1 especially = fabrics requir+ a heavy w>p & a l>ge numb] ( %afts4 ,ent] fir/ ! odd & !n ! ev5 %afts4 ,an #h h>ness draw ( ?is k9d1 ( :i* ?ree repeats are %[n 9 ,fig4 #c1 runs z foll[s3 #a1 #c1 #e1 #g1 #b1 #d1 #f1 #h4 ,fig4 #d is a #ab h>ness draw ( ! same class4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,po9t ,,draws ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e 99 99 99 99 ,page #aj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i ,page #aa ,po9t draws are a comb9ation ( a regul> /raight draw f back to front & "o f front to back1 ! fir/ & ! la/ %afts only be+ us$ once1 :ile ! re/ receive two ends ea* 9 "o repeat ( ! draw4 ,fig4 #e illu/rates a regul> po9t draw 9 #b repeats on #aj %afts4 ,x w be se5 t #ad ends make a repeat2 9 fact1 ! numb] ( w>p-?reads requir$ = "o draw w always be d\ble ! numb] ( h>ness less #b1 h5ce a #ab h>ness regul> po9t draw w require #bb w>p-?reads = a repeat4 ,! draw+-9 draft illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #f is a slight v>iation ( ! regul> po9t draw2 x consi/s1 z w be se51 ( a draw f back to front1 & also a full "o f front to back1 !re by caus+ a d\ble po9t4 ,ano!r *ange f ! regul> po9t draw is illu/rat$ 9 ,figs4 #g & #h2 ?is class may be call$ ,brok5 po9t draws1 because a new draw is begun be=e ! o!r "o is complete4 ,fig4 #i also comes 9 ?is class & repres5ts a zigzag draw on #aj h>ness4 ,! draw+-9 drafts :i* we h describ$ "u ! head ( ,po9t draws1 are us$ mo/ly to obta9 ! v>i\s po9t$ & zigzag effects4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,section ,,draws ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj 99 99 99 99 ,page #ab ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad 99 99 99 99 ,page #ac ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae ,?is division ( draw+-9 drafts is us$ ext5sively 9 silk manufactur+2 = in/ance1 9 all fabrics hav+ a gr\nd w>p & a b9d] w>p1 also 9 d\ble-face goods1 or :]e two diff]5t weaves are comb9$ 9 "o effect4 ,"o or m ?reads are drawn on ! fir/ section1 !n "o or m on a second & ?ird1 if ! h>ness is divid$ 9 s _m sets4 ,! foll[+ examples w illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( ^! draws4 ,9 ,fig4 #aj1 %afts #a1 #b1 #c1 #d f ! fir/ set1 %afts #e & #f ! second1 #h ?reads are drawn /raight on ! fir/1 !n #b on ! second section4 ,fig4 #aa1 fir/ set %afts #a to #f inclusive1 second set %afts #g & #h4 ,fig4 #ab is drawn end & end on two sections hav+ #h %afts ea*4 ,figs4 #ac1 #ad & #ae1 :ile n /rictly belong+ to ! class ( section draws1 may1 h[ev]1 be consid]$ "u ?is head+4 ,! idea is to draw a c]ta9 numb] ( ends 9 "o "p ( ! h>ness & ano!r gr\p 9 ano!r "p1 be x /raight1 po9t or skip1 :i* w cause ! effect on ! clo? to be accord+ly transpos$ or brok5 up4 ,page #ae 99 99 99 99 99 ,,! ,,weaves ,,& ,,_! ,,con/ruction ,9 any wov5 fabric we di/+ui% two sy/ems ( ?reads1 ! ,w>p or ,*a91 runn+ l5g?ways 9 ! clo?1 & ! ,fill+ or ,weft1 cross+ ! =m] at "r angles4 ,?is cross+ or int]lac+ consi/s ( e individual w>p-?read be+ plac$ alt]nately "u & ov] "o or m ?reads ( ! fill+ sy/em4 ,! arrangem5t ( ?is int]lac+ is te*nically call$ ! ,weave1 & ! v>iety 9 :i* ! po9ts ( cross+ c be di/ribut$ is practically endless4 ,x is pr9cipally ! weave t l5ds to a fabric its "*1 influ5c$1 ( c\rse1 by ! mat]ial us$1 ! size & t5sion ( ! ?reads & ! comb9ation ( ! colors4 ,! weaves are divid$ into ?ree ma9 classes3 ! ,f\ndation weaves4 ,9 ! silk bus9ess !y are kn[n "u ! foll[+ names3 ,! ,taffeta ,weave1 ,! ,s]ge ,weave1 ,! ,sat9 ,weave4 ,9 ! f\ndation weaves ea* ?read effects only "o cross+ 9 "o repeat ( ! weave1 & ! po9ts ( int]lac+ occur 9 a giv5 rotation4 ,a repeat 9 ! f\ndation weaves comprises ! same numb] ( w>p-?reads z ( picks or fill+ ?reads1 & if ?is numb] is #h1 = ,page #af in/ance1 ! weave is call$ an #h-%aft or an #h-;h>ness weave4 ,9 m>k+ out a weave1 ! w>p-?reads are repres5t$ by v]tical l9es1 ! fill+ by horizontal ones1 or 9 ea* case by ! space betwe5 ^! l9es4 ,! places :]e a w>p-?read lies ov] ! fill+ are m>k$ ) pa9t or simply ) a cross4 ,9 a simil> mann] we m>k out ! *a9 draft1 :i* indicates ! rotation 9 :i* ! %afts are rais$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #ag ,,! ,,taffeta ,,weave ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag ,page #ah ,?is is ! simple/ & olde/ me?od ( int]lac+4 ,! odd numb]s ( w>p-?reads cross ! ev5 numb]s aft] e pick2 h5ce ( two w>p-?reads "o w always g ov] ! fir/ pick & "u ! second1 & ! o!r end "u ! fir/ & ov] ! second pick4 ,taffeta clo?1 !re=e1 has ! same appe>ance on bo? sides1 & 9 cotton & wool weav+ ?is weave is te*nically--& prop]ly inde$--call$ ! ,pla9 ,weave4 ,x has ! smalle/ repeat1 #b w>p-?reads & #b picks1 & ! ex*ang+ ( w>p & fill+ is ! mo/ frequ5t possible4 ,! clo? ?us produc$ is firm] & /rong] ?an t obta9$ ) any o!r weave4 ,fig4 #af is a taffeta on #d %afts /raight draw1 ! draft execut$ 9 ! mann] :i* we h already m5tion$ 9 expla9+ ! draw+-9 drafts4 ,fig4 #ag on common design+ pap]1 illu/rates a taffeta made on #h-;h>ness1 skip draw4 ,be x m5tion$ t ! draw+-9 draft & ! *a9 draft w be add$ ?r\gh\t ?is "w1 ! =m] ov] ! weave to correspond ) ! respective w>p-?reads1 ! latt] to ! "r ( ! draw+-9 draft4 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #ai ,,gros ,,de ,,t\rs ,,weaves ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai ,9 ?is weave ! work+ ( ! w>p is ! same z 9 taffeta1 except t in/ead ( "o pick1 two or m are ins]t$ 9 ! same %$4 ,x is mo/ly us$ 9 selv$ges1 :]e x s]ves to give m firmness to ! edge ( an o!rwise loosely wov5 clo?1 & prev5ts ! weav+ ahead ( ! edge 9 a tight weave4 ,gros de ,t\rs is sometimes us$1 especially :5 cotton or wool fill+ is employ$1 ) a view to lay two picks nicely side by side1 :]eas a ?read ent]$ two ply ) ! taffeta weave w always receive "s twi/1 :i* may di/urb ! p]fect ev5ness ( ! fabric4 ,fig4 #ah is a ,gros de ,t\rs ) two picks on f\r h>ness /raight ?r\gh4 ,fig4 #ai illu/rates ?is weave ) ?ree picks drawn end & end on two sections ( f\r %afts ea*4 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #bj ,,s]ge or ,,twill ,,weaves ,:ile ! taffeta weave produces ei!r an entirely smoo? fabric1 or "o ) a di/9ct transv]se rib z 9 gros-gra91 ! twill weave =ms diagonal l9es on ! clo?1 runn+ ei!r f left to "r or f "r to left4 ,to make a twill1 n less ?an ?ree ends & ?ree picks are requir$1 ( :i* ea* ?read floats ov] two ( ! o!r sy/em & int]laces ) ! ?ird4 ,! rotation ( ! int]lac+ is always consecutive1 t is x moves ) ea* succe$+ pick "o ?read to ! "r 7or to ! left if ! l9es are to run 9 t direction74 ,if w>p & fill+ h ! same texture1 t is ! same numb] ( ?reads 9 a giv5 space1 ! twill l9es w =m an angle ( #de2 if ! w>p /&s clos] ?an ! fill+1 ! incl9e w be /eep]1 & 9 ! opposite case ! angle w approa* m ! horizontal4 ,! weaves c be express$ 9 numb]s1 = in/ance3 ! #c-;end twill w>p effect w\ld be m>k$ #b-a1 :i* indicates t ea* w>p-?read goes ov] two & "u "o pick4 ,twill weaves are call$ ev5sid$ :5 ! arrangem5t ( w>p up & fill+ up are ev5ly balanc$1 & unev5sid$ if ei!r w>p or fill+ pr$om9ate on ! face ( ! fabric2 ! latt] class is !re=e subdivid$ 9 ,w>p effects & ,fill+ effects4 ,9 ! foll[+ a numb] ( s]ge weaves are illu/rat$1 ! ,fr5* designations be+ add$ 9 "s cases1 z !y are /ill ext5sively us$ 9 ! trade4 ,page #ba 99 99 99 99 99 ,,fill+ ,,effects ,sat9 de ,lyon1 #b-a4 ,on #f h>ness /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj 99 99 99 99 ,levant9e1 #c-a;h_/#e ,on #h %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba 99 99 99 99 ,page #bb ,polonaise1 #e-a ,on #ab h>ness skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb 99 99 99 99 ,s]ge grosse cte1 #g-a ,on #h %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc 99 99 99 99 ,page #bc ,s]ge rema9e1 #f-b ,on #h %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd 99 99 99 99 ,s]ge1 #e-a1 #a-a4 ,on #h %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be 99 99 99 99 ,page #bd ,s]ge1 #d-b1 #a-a1 #a-a4 ,on #aj h>ness /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf 99 99 99 99 ,s]ge1 #g-a1 #a-a1 #a-a1 #a-a1 #a-a4 ,on #af %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #be ,,w>p ,,effects ,levant9e1 #c-a4 ,on #d %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh 99 99 99 99 ,s]ge1 #e-a1 #a-a4 ,on #h %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #bf ,,ev5sid$ ,,twills ,surah1 #b-b ,on #d %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj 99 99 99 99 ,croise1 #c-c1 #b-b1 #a-a4 ,on #ab %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca 99 99 99 99 ,page #bg ,s]ge1 #g-g1 #a-a1 #a-a1 #a-a ,on #bj %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb 99 99 99 99 99 ,,po9t$ ,,twills 9 ! direction ( ! fill+ & also ( ! w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc ,on #d %afts po9t draw1 weave #c-a4 99 99 99 99 ,page #bh ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd ,on #f %afts po9t draw1 drawn z foll[s3 ,eighte5 ends f back to front & #d ends f front to re>1 weave #e-a4 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce ,on #h %afts po9t$ draw1 weave #e-a1 #a-a4 99 99 99 99 ,page #bi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf ,on #aj %afts1 ) weave #c-c1 drawn z foll[s3 #g ?reads f back to front4 #c front to re>4 #f back to front4 #b front to re>4 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg ,on #f %afts /raight draw1 po9t$ weave #e-a4 99 99 99 99 ,page #cj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch ,on #h %afts /raight ?r\gh1 po9t$ weave #e-a1 #a-a4 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci ,brok5 po9t$ twill1 on #h h>ness4 99 99 99 99 ,page #ca ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj ,on #f %afts po9t draw1 po9t$ weave #e-a4 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da ,on #h %afts po9t draw1 po9t$ weave #e-a1 #a-a4 99 99 99 99 ,page #cb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db ,fancy twill1 on #af %afts /raight draw4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,sat9 ,,weaves ,! di/9ct diagonal l9es :i* *>act]ize ! class ( weaves expla9$ 9 ! previ\s *apt] are abs5t 9 ! sat9 weaves2 & :ile ! int]lac+ 9 ! =m] is done 9 a /rictly consecutive ord]1 we endeavor to scatt] ! po9ts ( /it*+ 9 ! latt] z mu* z possible1 9 ord] to create an entirely smoo? & brilliant surface on ,page #cc ! clo?4 ,9 all sat9s ! numb] ( ends 9 a repeat is ! same 9 w>p & fill+4 ,! l[e/ repeat ( a regul> sat9 comprises five ?reads ( ea* sy/em1 & ! int]lac+ is done 9 ! foll[+ ord]3 ,! #a/ pick ) ! #a/ w>p-?read #b;d #c;d #c;d #e? #d? #b;d #e? #d? ,fig4 #dc illu/rates ?is weave4 ,an exam9ation ( ! rotation1 z giv5 above1 w %[ t e w>p-?read int]sects two picks ap>t f its neighbor4 ,! numb] #b is 9 ?is case :at is te*nically kn[n z ! c\nt]1 t is ! numb] :i* indicates ! po9ts ( int]lac+ by add+ x to numb] #a & cont9u+ s until all ! w>p-?reads are tak5 up4 ,! foll[+ is ! rule to f9d ! c\nt] = any regul> sat93 ,divide ! numb] ( h>ness into two p>ts1 :i* mu/ nei!r be equal nor h a common divisor4 ,any ( ^! two numb]s c be us$ = c\nt+ (f1 b usually ! small] "o is tak54 ,accord+ to ?is rule we obta9 a regul> sat9 ,on #e h>ness ) c\nt] #b #g #b or #c #h #c #i #b or #d #aj #c #aa #b1 #c1 #d or #e #ab #e #ac #b1 #c1 #d1 #e or #f #ad #c or #e #ae #b1 #d or #g #af #c1 #e or #g4 ,page #cd ,! #d h>ness brok5 twill1 ,fig4 #ec1 is sometimes class$ among ! sat9s4 ,! #f h>ness sat91 ,fig4 #ed1 is irregul>2 z a c\nt] _c be d]iv$ f numb] #f by ! giv5 rule4 ,! rotation g5]ally us$ is #a1 #c1 #f1 #d1 #b1 #e4 99 99 99 99 99 ,regul> ,sat9s #e h>ness ,sat91 ,sat9 de ,*9e4 ,/raight draw1 c\nt] #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc 99 99 99 99 #g h>ness ,sat91 ,sat9 ,m]veilleux4 ,skip draw1 c\nt] #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd 99 99 99 99 ,page #ce #g h>ness sat9 ,/raight draw1 c\nt] #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de 99 99 99 99 #h h>ness sat9 ,du*ese ,skip draw1 c\nt] #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df 99 99 99 99 ,page #cf #i h>ness sat9 ,/raight draw1 c\nt] #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dg 99 99 99 99 #aj h>ness sat9 ,/raight draw1 c\nt] #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dh 99 99 99 99 ,page #cg #aa h>ness sat9 ,skip draw1 c\nt] #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #di 99 99 99 99 #ab h>ness sat9 ,skip draw1 c\nt] #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ej 99 99 99 99 ,page #ch #af h>ness sat9 ,on #b sections ( #h %afts ea*1 drawn end & end1 c\nt] #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ea 99 99 99 99 ,page #ci #h h>ness sat91 w>p effect4 ,/raight draw1 c\nt] #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eb 99 99 99 99 99 ,,irregul> ,,sat9s ,sat9 ,turc4 ,on #d %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ec 99 99 99 99 ,page #dj ,sat9 la ,re9e ,on #f %afts /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ed 99 99 99 99 ,page #da 99 99 99 99 99 ,,d]ivative ,,weaves #a4 ,f ! ,taffeta ,royale is a modification ( ! regul> ,gros de ,t\rs1 inasmu* z ! rib l9e1 :i* 9 ! latt] runs /raight across ! clo?1 is brok5 (f aft] a giv5 numb] ( w>p-?reads4 ,^! gr\ps1 :i* may comprise #h1 #ab or m ?reads1 w int]lace ea* "o pick high] ?an ! prec$+ "o4 ,royale ( #h ends ,on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ee 99 99 99 99 ,vel\rs ,ottoman or ,faille franaise4 ,9 ord] to obta9 a broad] rib ?an t ( ,gros de ,t\rs1 & at ! same "t to l5d firmness to ! fabric1 we add to ! gr\nd w>p1 :i* =ms ! ribs1 ano!r or b9d] w>p1 :i* works cont9ually taffeta1 ,page #db :ile ! gr\nd w>p *anges only e #c or #d picks = ! rib4 ,faille franaise4 #d ends ( gr\nd on ! fir/ section ( #h %afts1 skip draw4 #a b9d] second #b ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ef 99 99 99 99 ,vel\rs ,ottoman )\t a ,b9d]-w>p4 ,9 ?is weave1 ( :i* ,fig4 #eg illu/rates a specim51 compris+ #h w>p-?reads & #cb picks 9 a repeat1 ! rib conta9s #d picks4 ,( ! #h w>p-?reads1 #c float ov] & #c "u ! rib1 :ile ! #b o!rs b9d taffeta1 :i* latt] function is execut$ by #b o!r ?reads 9 ! next rib4 ,page #dc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eg 99 99 99 99 99 #b4 ,f ! ,twills ,"o v>iety is obta9$ by int]lac+ ! w>p-?reads alt]nately "o or m picks beh9d1 & !n a numb] ( picks ahead ( _! respective neighbors2 s ! complete arrangem5t ( ! po9ts ( b9d+ 9 a repeat w g5]ally =m two p>allel diagonal l9es4 ,?is w cause ! twill l9es to appe> less pron\nc$ ?an is ! case 9 ! regul> twill1 & ! "* ( ! fabric approa*es m t ( ! sat94 ,page #dd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eh ,sat9 ,s]g4 ,on #h %afts1 /raight draw4 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ei ,cte ,sat9e4 ,on #af h>ness1 skip draw4 99 99 99 99 ,rhadzimir-,surah #b-b4 ,aft] a c]ta9 numb] ( picks ( ! regul> surah all ! w>p-?reads are cross$ 9 two's !reby caus+ a sort ( a rib or cut l9e across ! fabric4 ,page #de ,rhadzimir ( #d picks4 ,on #h %afts1 /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fj 99 99 99 99 ,rhadzimir ( #f picks4 ,on #h %afts1 /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fa 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #df #c4 ,f ! ,sat9 ,weave ,sat9 ,soleil %[s a sat9-l surface ) a cross l9e appe>ance4 ,fig4 #fb illu/rates x z made on #h %afts1 /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fb 99 99 99 99 ,sat9 ,grec is a #ab-;h>ness sat91 9 :i* a taffeta po9t is add$ to ea* place ( int]lac+1 ?us giv+ ! clo? a mu* firm] h&4 ,fig4 #fc repres5ts ?is weave on #ab %afts1 skip draw4 ,page #dg ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fc 99 99 99 99 ,peau de ,soie4 ,an #h-%aft sat9 ) "o po9t add$ on ! "r or left to ! orig9al spots1 giv+ ! fabric a some:at gra9y appe>5ce4 ,fig4 #fd repres5ts a peau de soie on #h %afts1 /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fd 99 99 99 99 ,page #dh ,fleur de ,soie4 ,! face is a sat9 de ,lyon 7#b-a twill71 ) a back+ int]lac$ on ! #ab-%aft sat9 pr9ciple1 ,fig4 #fe1 on #ab %afts1 skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fe 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #di ,,cannele & ,,repp ,,weaves are 9 _! con/ruction relat$ to ! taffeta1 & are us$ mo/ly 9 ! =m ( /ripes z an additional ornam5t to a fabric4 ,! ?reads go+ into ! composition ( ^! effects ex*ange cont9ually f taffeta int]lac+ to float+ ov] a c]ta9 numb] ( ?reads1 & mu/ be introduc$ ei!r 9 w>p or fill+ close en\gh to make ! floats cov] up ! taffeta "w entirely1 & ?us enable ! mat]ial us$ to %[ up ) ! full brilliancy x possesses4 ,cannele effects c be produc$ 9 two di/9ct ways4 ,"o is to let e individual ?read "w alt]nately taffeta & float1 :ile 9 ! o!r me?od "o ?read weaves always taffeta1 & a second ?read is us$ = ! cannele exclusively4 ,^! latt] ?reads mu/ come f a sep>ate w>p1 :i* is introduc$ to embelli% ! gr\nd or taffeta "p ( ! fabric4 ,! float+ ?reads c ei!r /it* all on "o pick & s =m a cont9u\s cut l9e1 or be divid$ 9 gr\ps1 ( :i* "o w b9d 9 ! middle ( ! floats ( ! o!r gr\p4 ,! foll[+ designs %[ bo? ! face & backside ( ! respective weaves3 ,page #ej ,alt]nat+ ,cannele ( #f picks4 ,on #d %afts1 /raight ?r\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ff 99 99 99 99 ,canelle 7#b beams74 ,ov] #c picks1 int]lac+ on e f\r? pick1 drawn end & end on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fg 99 99 99 99 ,page #ea ,cannele ov] #e picks1 b9d+ on ! six?1 b e second ?read advanc$ #c picks 7to ! middle ( ! float ( ! fir/ ?read71 drawn end & end on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fh 99 99 99 99 ,page #eb ,cannele arrang$ 9 gr\ps ( #h ?reads1 float+ ov] #f picks & b9d+ on ! sev5? & eigh?1 drawn on #b sections1 ) #d %afts 9 fir/ & #b 9 second section4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fi 99 99 99 99 ,repp on #h %afts /raight ?r\gh4 ,rotation ( fill+4 #a pick taffeta1 #a pick float 7rib74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gj 99 99 99 99 ,page #ec ,repp ( #h ?reads1 on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*1 #h ends p] section4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ga 99 99 99 99 ,repp ( #e ?reads1 b9d+ on ! six?2 e second pick b9ds on ! middle ( ! fir/ pick4 ,on #f h>ness /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gb 99 99 99 99 ,page #ed ,repp 9 gr\ps1 float+ ov] #f ends & b9d+ on ! sev5? & eigh? on #h %afts /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gc 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #ee ,,d\ble ,,fac$ ,,fabrics ,9 ?is class we f9d ei!r two sy/ems ( w>p or ( fill+ s comb9$ t only "o w be visible on ei!r side4 ,! color on "o side is g5]ally diff]5t f ! o!r1 & s may ! int]lac+ be ( a diff]5t nature on face & back4 ,9 ! latt] case great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ n to all[ ! weave on "o side to di/urb ! "o on ! o!r1 & z a rule ! po9ts ( int]lac+ ( ! fir/ w>p or fill+ sy/em are plac$ z mu* z possible 9 ! middle ( ! floats ( ! second4 ,?is w prev5t ei!r color or weave to be se5 on ! opposite side1 z ! floats ( "o side w naturally lay !mselves ov] ! b9d]s ( ! o!r4 ,! numb] ( ends 9 a repeat ( ! two weaves mu/ ei!r be alike or "o a multiple ( ! o!r4 ,w>p ,effects ,levant9e on #h %afts /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gd 99 99 99 99 ,page #ef ,s]ge #f-b on #b sections ( #h %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ge 99 99 99 99 #h %aft sat9 on #b sections ( #h h>ness ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gf 99 99 99 99 ,page #eg #ab %aft sat9 on #b sections ( #ab %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gg 99 99 99 99 ,cannele ( #h picks on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gh 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #eh ,,fill+ ,,effects ,s]ge #e-a on #f h>ness /raight draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gi 99 99 99 99 #aj h>ness sat9 on #aj %afts skip draw4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hj 99 99 99 99 ,page #ei ,repp on #b sections ( #d %afts ea*1 #h ?reads p] section4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ha 99 99 99 99 ,page #fj ,,pek9s ,) ?is "n we designate fabrics 9 :i* /ripes ( a diff]5t int]lac+ run 9 ! direction ( ! w>p4 ,9 comb9+ ^! weaves x is advantage\s to h !m contra/ di/9ctly1 = in/ance1 a %ort weave su* z taffeta or ,gros de ,t\rs1 ) a long] & loos] "o su* z sat91 s]g or cannele1 also *anges f w>p to fill+ effects4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to arrange ! jo9+ ( ! two weaves s t ! la/ ?read ( "o weave w cross ! fir/ ?read ( ! o!r4 ,?is w prev5t ! ?reads f ei!r /ripe to slide ov] into ! o!r1 & s make a clean cut l9e4 ,pek94 ,a /ripe ( #b d5ts ( #h ends ea*1 #h %aft ,sat91 on #h %afts /raight draw4 #ab #b ,taffeta #d ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hb 99 99 99 99 ,page #fa ,pek94 ,a /ripe ( #ab ends ,cannele ( #f picks on #a/ section ( #d %afts4 #ab ,repp #f ?reads on #b;d & #c;d section ( #b %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hc 99 99 99 99 ,page #fb ,pek94 ,a /ripe ( #aj ends #e leaf ,sat9 on ! #a/ section ( #e %afts /raight draw4 #d ,taffeta #c;d #b #ah ,s]ge #c-a1 #a-a #b;d #f ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hd 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #fc ,,bayad,,res ,:ile pek9s are =m$ by w>p /ripes1 bayadre %[s u /ripes ( diff]5t weaves runn+ 9 ! direction ( ! fill+4 ,! rules giv5 9 ! previ\s *apt] z to ! jo9+ ( ! weaves w also apply "h4 ,! w>p :i* 0 rais$ on ! la/ pick ( ! weave mu/ /ay d[n :]ev] possible on ! fir/ pick ( ! foll[+ weave4 ,! numb] ( %afts employ$ mu/ g up ev5ly 9 ! repeat ( ea* "o ( ! weaves t g into ! make up ( ! bayadre4 ,bayadre ,a /ripe ( #bd picks ,gros de ,t\rs on #h %afts /raight ?r\gh4 #h #h-%aft ,sat91 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #he 99 99 99 99 ,page #fd ,bayadre ,a /ripe ( #ah picks #f-%aft ,sat9 #f ,s]ge #e-a1 on #f %afts1 /raight draw4 #d ,taffeta1 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hf 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #fe ,,*ecks ,,& ,,plaids ,if pek9 & bayadre /ripes are comb9$1 we obta9 *eck$ fabrics1 & ( ^! an endless v>iety & pleas+ effects c be produc$ ) ! aid ( suitable color comb9ations4 ,*eck ( #af ?reads & #ab picks ( ! #d end brok5 twill1 & #af #ab ,royale ( #h ?reads1 drawn on #d sections ( #d %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hg 99 99 99 99 ,page #ff ,*eck ( #bj ?reads & #af picks ( #h-%aft ,sat91 #bj #af ,taffeta1 #d ,surah #c-a1 drawn on #b sections ( #h %afts ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hh 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #fg ,,decomposition ,"u ! "n ( ,disposition we comprise all ^? po9ts & details :i* we mu/ asc]ta9 be=e we c proce$ ) ! con/ruction ( a fabric4 ,!y are3 #a4 ,! weave4 #b4 ,l5g? & wid? ( ! clo?4 #c4 ,! /ock & ! dye+ !re(4 #d4 ,re$ calculation 7numb] ( d5ts & ends p] in* & total numb] ( d5ts requir$74 #e4 ,draw+-9 ! w>p 9 h>ness & re$4 #f4 ,texture & arrangem5t ( w>p 7w>p+ ticket7 #g4 ,arrangem5t ( h>ness4 #h4 ,r$uction ( fill+4 #i4 ,calculation ( w>p & fill+4 #aj4 ,f9i%+4 #aa4 ,calculation ( co/4 ,page #fh #a4 ,,! ,,weave ,if a giv5 sample is to be reproduc$ or imitat$1 x mu/ be analyz$1 & ! foll[+ h9ts w greatly facilitate ?is op]ation to ! beg9n]4 ,cut ! sample /raight on two sides1 & draw out a numb] ( w>p & fill+ ?reads until !re is a small fr+e ( p]haps ( an in*4 ,?is w all[ a ?read to be rais$ a little = exam9ation1 )\t dang] ( its fall+ out ( ! fabric4 ,9 mo/ cases x is easi] to dissect ! fill+ side1 t is1 ! int]lac+ ( ea* w>p-?read 9 ! ?reads ( ! fill+ sy/em4 ,) ! help ( ! microscope or c\nt+ glass we c easily det]m9e ov] & "u h[ _m picks t ?read passes & ! po9ts ( int]lac+ are accord+ly m>k$ on design+ pap]4 ,?is be+ done = at lea/ ! l5g? ( a repeat w>pways1 we take x out & exam9e ! foll[+ ?read1 & s on until ! repeat fill+-ways is complete4 ,x is advisable to asc]ta9 h[ _m picks ahead or back ( ! fir/ exam9$ ?read ! next foll[+ "o b9ds be=e tak+ ! =m] out4 ,a k ( ! con/ruction ( weaves z expla9$ 9 ! =ego+ *apt]s w enable u to det]m9e ! weave ( a simple patt]n by m]ely rais+ a w>p-?read ) a ne$le on any po9t ( int]lac+ & c\nt+ (f h[ _m picks ap>t f ?is place x makes an impression4 #b4 ,,l5g? ,,& ,,wid? ,,( ,,! ,,fabric ,to ! l5g? & wid? :i* ! f9i%$ product is to h1 we mu/ add a c]ta9 all[ance = %r9kage & tak+ up ( w>p dur+ weav+4 ,x may diff] f "o to t5 p] c5t41 accord+ to ! texture & weave ( ! fabric1 & c be asc]ta9$ ) suffici5t accuracy by /ret*+ out & measur+ a ?read ( w>p & fill+ & comp>+ _! l5g? ) ! respective measurem5ts ( ! sample to be reproduc$4 ,page #fi #c4 ,,! ,,/ock ,,& ,,its ,,dye ,"u ?is head+ we mu/ give ! p>ticul>s z to nature1 twi/1 quality & size ( ! silk1 & ! directions = ! dye+1 :e!r bright or s\ple1 & 9 :at colors1 also :e!r to be weight$ or n4 ,! size is g5]ally asc]ta9$ 79 practical "w7 by comp>+ x ) o!r silk ( :i* ! exact c\nt is kn[n4 ,ano!r me?od is to c\nt ! numb] ( cocoon ?reads :i* a ?read ( ! sample conta9s1 add+ to t #a_/c or 1 accord+ to ! quality ( ! silk2 ! result w be ! c\nt 9 d5i]s4 ,to obta9 x 9 drams1 divide ! latt] numb] by #ag1c z #a dram is equal to #ag1c d5i]s4 ,suppose we f9d #bj cocoon ends 9 a ?read ( silk3 add #a_/c1 & we h #bf-b_/c d5i]s1 :i*1 divid$ by #ag1c make #a1ed drams4 ,z silk is always m or less unev51 x is saf] to c\nt ! cocoon fib]s ( sev]al ?reads & to take av]age !re(4 ,x requires ! exp]i5ce ( ye>s to judge ) any degree ( c]ta9ty z to ! orig9 & quality ( silk1 :e!r x be classical1 extra1 sublime1 etc4 ,!re are ma*9es :]e) to asc]ta9 exactly ! twi/1 t is1 ! numb] ( turns ! silk has receiv$ 9 ! ?r[+ process4 ,9 ! dye+ we di/+ui% two great classes1 ( :i* ! names !mselves give a good def9ition4 ,bright has a brilliant lu/]1 :ile s\ple has m ( a dull1 subdu$ appe>ance4 ,to f9d out :e!r ! silk has be5 weight$ 9 ! dye+ process1 we may comp>e x ) o!r silk ( :i* ! exact conditions are kn[n1 or we may burn a small quantity ( x4 ,unweight$ silk does n burn readily & leaves a residue ( :ite a%es1 :ile heavy weight$ silk burns lively1 leav+ black1 *>ry a%es4 ,page #gj #d4 ,,re$ ,,calculation ,we c\nt ! numb] ( repeats ( ! weave 9 a giv5 space1 g5]ally or in*1 & multiply ?is ) ! numb] ( ?reads "o repeat conta9s1 :i* gives u ! r$uction ( ! w>p4 ,suppose we _h a taffeta1 :i*1 z we "k1 has only #b ends to a repeat1 & c\nt$ #cj int]lac+s p] in* on "o pick2 we w\ld h #fj ?reads p] in* or #bdj p] "o in*4 ,9 ?is case ! re$ may be #hj by #c or #fj by #d4 ,ano!r in/ance3 ,9 an #h-%aft sat9 we c\nt #aj w>p-?reads1 :i* b9d on ! same pick 9 in*2 ?is1 multipli$ by #h1 equals #hj ends p] 1 or #cbj p] "o in*2 ! re$ w be an #hj ) #d 9 a d5t or a #fd by #e4 ,9 %ort1 ! numb] ( ! re$ is f\nd by divid+ ! numb] ( w>p-?reads t are to g 9 "o d5t1 9 ! numb] ( ends p] in*4 ,sometimes1 ! re$ m>ks are cle>ly visible 9 a sample by hold+ ! latt] aga9/ ! light4 ,silk fabrics move ) v few exceptions )9 ! limits ( #ej & #ij d5ts p] in*4 ,to le>n ! full numb] ( d5ts requir$ = ! wid? ( ! clo?1 simply multiply ! d5ts p] "o in* ) ! wid?1 add+ a c]ta9 all[ance = %r9kage4 ,! edges1 ( c\rse1 mu/ also be tak5 9 consid]ation1 & v (t5 ! d5ts t are tak5 up by ! latt] are us$ to c\nt]-balance t %r9kage4 #e4 ,,draw+-,,9 ,,! ,,w>p ,,9 ,,h>ness ,,& ,,re$ ,"h we mu/ specify ! numb] ( d5ts t conta9 ! same numb] ( ends1 & :e!r ! latt] are s+le or d\ble1 also ! numb] ( %afts & ! me?od ( draw+-94 ,page #ga #f4 ,,w>p+ ,,ticket ,to make out ! w>p+ ticket1 we ne$ to asc]ta9 ! total numb] ( ends1 :e!r leas$ s+le or d\ble1 & ! arrangem5t ( ! colors4 #g4 ,,h>ness ,,arrangem5t ,?is is gov]n$ by ! numb] ( ends to be drawn 9 & ! necess>y %afts4 ,if we h1 = in/ance1 #ajj ?reads p] in* to be drawn on #d %afts1 we mu/ give ea* %aft #be h$dles p] in*4 ,!re are g5]ally betwe5 #be & #de h$dles p] in* on "o %aft4 #h4 ,,r$uction ,,( ,,! ,,fill+ ,"h we /ate ! numb] ( picks p] in*1 give directions z to d\bl+1 if su* is necess>y1 & if m ?an "o color or %uttle is us$1 ! rotation !re(4 #i4 ,,calculation ,,( ,,w>p ,,& ,,fill+ ,! sy/em adopt$ 9 ?is c\ntry = specify+ ! size ( silk is bas$ on ! weight 9 drams 7avoirdupois7 ( a ske9 conta9+ #ajjj y>ds4 ,a ske91 ?us weigh+ #e drams1 is te*nically call$ #e-;dram silk4 ,! numb] ( y>ds ( #a-;dram silk to a p\nd mu/ accord+ly be #befjjj4 ,! =mulas = figur+ ! am\nt ( silk requir$ = a piece ( clo? are z foll[s3 ,w>p ,calculation ,multiply3 ,numb] ( endsl5g?c\nt ----------------------------- ,divide by3 #ajjj y>ds#bef drams ,page #gb ,fill+ ,calculation ,multiply3 ,picksxplywid?l5g? ( piecec\nt -------------------------------------- lbs4 ,divide by3 #ajjj y>ds#bef drams ,! result 9 bo? cases w be 9 p\nds4 ,! sy/em ( grad+ ! silk :i* is 9 vogue 9 ,europe1 & :i* is employ$ by a numb] ( mills on ?is side1 is z foll[s3 #a ske9 ( #ejj met]s1 weigh+ #j1je grams #a d5i] int]national or #a #dgf #j1jec #a ,tur9 sy/em or #a #dgf #j1jea #a ,milan ,! w>p calculation1 tak+ ! int]national d5i]1 w\ld run3 ends 9 w>pl5g?d5i]#j1je gram -------------------------------------- divid$ by3 #ejj met]s = ! fill+3 ,picks p] met]xplywid?d5i]#j1je gram ---------------------------------------- ----- divid$ by3 #ejj met]s ,result 9 metric weight1 kilograms & grams4 #aj4 ,,f9i%+ ,give directions z to ! process ( f9i%+ to :i* ! goods are to be subject$1 :e!r to be press$1 cal5d]$1 siz$1 moird1 etc4 #aa4 ,,calculation ,,( ,,co/ ,if all ! =ego+ conditions are asc]ta9$1 & a sample or a piece ( ! fabric execut$1 x rema9s to ! manufactur] to det]m9e ! exact figure at :i* he c produce ! article4 ,t ?is mu/ be done ) great accuracy is naturally ( ! utmo/ importance1 & ! calculator ,page #gc mu/ "k 9 ! fir/ place ! raw /ock prices1 & also be acqua9t$ ) ! details ( ! manufactur+ process & ! rates ( wages paid !re94 ,z a rule1 ! manufactur] e/abli%es a scale ( prices cov]+ all ! items ( labor co/1 mill exp5ses1 etc41 & uses ?is z a basis = 8 calculations4 ,a rule or =mula = ?is op]ation _c v well be giv51 z ! me?ods v>y 9 almo/ e e/abli%m5t1 ea* *oos+ ! "o be/ adapt$ to its ideas or dictates ( circum/ances & conditions4 ,page #ge ,,disposition #a ,taffeta glac ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hi ,page #gf ,l5g? & ,wid?--,"o piece #ajj y>ds long1 #ah in*es wide4 ,/ock & ,dye--,w>p4--,ital4 ,organ41 #bd_/bf d5i]s #a1dg drams1 br[n1 bright1 #ad_/af oz4 ,fill+4--,japan ,tram1 #bh_/cj d5i]s #a1fe drams1 gold1 bright #ad_/af oz4 ,re$ ,calculation--,p] #a in*1 #gj d5ts at #c s+le ends4 #ah #acac add #ac #a = %r9kage ---- ,total #acbf d5ts4 ,draw+ 9--#a/ edge1 #i d5ts at #c d\ble ends4 ,gr\nd1 #acjh at #c s+le #b;d edge1 #i at #c d\ble on #f %afts1 /raight ?r\gh4 ,w>p+ ,ticket--#a/ edge1 #bg d\ble ends1 br[n4 ,gr\nd1 #cibd s+le #b;d edge1 #bg d\ble ---- ,total #djcb s+le ends4 ,l5g? ( w>p #aaj y>ds1 includ+ #aj = take up4 ,h>ness--#f %afts1 #cigh h$dles p] #ai in*es4 #a #ce #a ,r$uction ( ,fill+--,p] in*1 #ajj_/ajb picks1 #b ends4 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs #djcb ends4 #a end #aaj y>ds4 #ajjj y>ds #a1dg drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #djcbaaja1dgajd ------------------- #b1fe lbs41 or #b lbs4 #aj1d oz4 #ajjjbefajj ,page #gg ,fill+ ,calculation--8 lbs4 #ajj y>ds #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #ajb picks4 #b _/ ends4 #a pick #ai in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d #ajjj y>ds #a1fe drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajh 7#h wa/e74 #ajjcfajbbaiafeajh ------------------------- #b1gc lbs41 or #b lbs4 #aa1g ozs4 #cfajjjbefajj 99 99 99 99 ,page #gi ,,disposition #b ,surah #c-a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ij ,page #hj ,l5g? & ,wid?--#a piece #ej y>ds long1 #bc 94 wide4 ,/ock & ,dye+--,w>p4--,ital4 ,organ41 #a1cj drams #bj_/bd d5i]s1 black1 bright1 #dj_/ej #bb_/bd ozs4 ,fill+4--,cotton ,no4 #abj_/b black4 ,re$ ,calculation--,p] #a in*1 #hj d5ts at #b s+le ends4 #bc in*1 #ahhj add #cf #b = %r9kage4 ---- ,total #aiaf d5ts4 ,draw+-9--#a/ edge1 #h d5ts1 #b d\ble ends4 ,gr\nd1 #aijj #b s+le #b;d edge1 #h #b d\ble on #d %afts1 /raight draw4 ,w>p+ ,ticket--#a/ edge1 #af d\ble ends1 black4 ,gr\nd1 #chjj s+le #b;d edge1 #af d\ble ---- ,total #chfd s+le ends4 ,w>p #ed y>ds long #h = take up4 ,h>ness--#d %afts1 #chcb h$dles p] #bd in*es4 #a #dj #a ,r$uction ( ,fill+--,p] #a in*1 #abj picks1 #a end4 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs4 #dbfd ends4 #a end #ed y>ds4 #ajjj y>ds #a1cj drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #chfdeda1cjajd ------------------ #a1aj lbs41 or #a lb4 #a1jf oz4 #ajjjbefajj ,page #ha ,fill+ ,calculation-8lbs4 #ej y>ds4 #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #abj picks4 #a pick #bd in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d #hdj y>ds #a ske94 7,no4 #abj_/b7 #fj ske9s #a lb4 #ajj #aaj 7#aj wa/e74 #ejcfabjbdaaj ------------------ #c4ad lbs41 or #c lbs4 #b4bd ozs4 #cfhdjfjajj 99 99 99 99 ,page #hc ,,disposition #c ,sat9 ,du*esse4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ia ,page #hd ,l5g? & ,wid?--,"o w>p #cjj y>ds long1 #aj pieces ( #fj y>ds #bc in*es wide1 #b pieces 9 wid?1 ) "o cut edge4 ,/ock & ,dye+--,w>p4-- ,ital4 ,organ41 #a-ee_/ajj drams1 black1 bright1 #bj_/bb oz4 ,fill+4-- ,jap4 ,tram41 #a-h_/aj & #b-g_/aj drams1 black1 s\ple1 #dj_/dd oz4 ,we %\ld use = ?is fabric #a end fill+1 #e-?read1 #d-e_/aj drams1 b z we h none ( ?is size on h&1 we take3 #a end1 #b ?read1 #a-h_/aj drams1 & #a end1 #c ?read1 #b-g_/aj drams4 ,re$ ,calculation--#a in*1 #ff d5ts1 #d s+le ends4 #df #cjcf #ed 7#a %r9kage74 ---- ,total 444 #cjij d5ts4 ,draw+-9-- #a/ edge1 #b d5ts1 #fb1 black4 #ac #db1 :ite4 ,gr\nd1 #aead #da1 black4 #b #fb ,cut ,edge #a #bd1 #c empty4 #a #bd1 ,gr\nd1 #aead #da1 black4 #b;d edge1 #b #fb1 black4 #ac #db1 :ite4 ,sat9 on #h %afts1 /raight draw4 ,cross-?read = split edge on #c %afts1 see design4 ,w>p+ ,ticket-- ,edge1 #ab_/b black4 #eb_/b :ite4 ,gr\nd1 #fjef_/a black4 twice ov]4 ,edge1 #eb_/b :ite4 #ab_/b black4 #abbjh ends black1 #cah y>ds long4 #daf :ite1 #f %r9kage4 #b_/d black = gr\nd ?read1 #cjj y>ds long4 #b_/d :ip #cfj ea* "o on a sep>ate little roll4 ,page #he ,h>ness--#h %afts1 #abcfh h$dles1 #dg 9 #a #cc #a = ! split edge #c %afts1 ( :i* "o has only half a h$dle4 ,fill+--,p] #a 941 #hj picks1 #b ends 7z describ$ be=e74 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs4 #abbbd ends1 black 7#daf :ite74 #a end #cah y>ds4 #a1jjj y>ds #a1ee drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 7#daf7 #abbbdcaha4eeajd -------------------- #bd1dgg lbs4 org4 black4 #ajjjbefajj #j1hcc :ite4 ,fill+ ,calculation--8 lbs4 #cjj y>ds4 #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #hj picks4 #a pick #dg in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d4 #ajjj y>ds #d1e drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajh 7#h wa/e74 #cjjcfhjdgd1eajh ---------------------- #ba1dad lbs4 #cfajjjbefajj 99 99 99 99 ,page #hg ,,disposition #d ,armure ,sat9e ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ib ,page #hh ,l5g? & ,wid?--,"o piece #fj y>ds long1 #ai 94 wide4 ,/ock & ,dye+--,w>p4--,jap4 ,organ41 #a1dh drams1 black1 bright1 #ah_/bj oz4 ,fill+4--#c ?reads ,jap4 ,tram41 #b1ie drams1 black1 bright1 #bd_/bf oz4 ,re$ ,calculation--,p] #a in*1 #fj d5ts#d s+le ends4 #ai #aadj #cb 7#c = %r9kage74 ---- ,total 4 4 4 #aagb d5ts4 ,draw+-9--#a/ edge1 #ab d5ts #d d\ble4 ,gr\nd1 #aadh #d s+le4 #b;d edge1 #ab #d d\ble4 on #ab %afts1 /raight ?r\gh1 or on #f %afts1 z design indicates4 ,w>p+ ,ticket--#a/ edge1 #dh_/b black4 ,gr\nd1 #deib_/a #b;d edge1 #dh_/b ------ ,total 4 4 4 #dghd s+le ends #fd y>ds long4 #f = take up4 ,h>ness--#f %afts1 #dfhh h$dles p] #ai in*es4 #a #dj #a ,r$uction ( ,fill+--,p] #a in*1 #ajd picks1 #b ends4 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs4 #dghd ends4 #a end #fd y>ds4 #ajjj y>ds #a1dh drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #dghdfda1dhajd ------------------ #a1hd lbs41 or #a lb4 #ac1dd ozs4 #ajjjbefajj ,page #hi ,fill+ ,calculation--8 lbs4 #fj y>ds4 #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #ajd picks4 #b ends4 #a pick #ai in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d4 #ajjj y>ds #b1ie drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajh 7#h wa/e74 #fjcfajdbai1eb1ieajh --------------------------- #c1jc lbs41 or #c lbs4 #j1dh ozs4 #cfajjjbefajj 99 99 99 99 ,page #ia ,,disposition #e ,surface ,pr9t$ ,armure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ic ,page #ib ,l5g? & ,wid?--,"o piece #ej y>ds long1 #ah 94 wide4 ,/ock & ,dye+--,w>p4--,ital4 ,organ41 #a1ej drams1 #bd_/bh d5i]s1 :ite bright1 pure dye4 ,fill+4--#e ?read ,ital4 ,tram41 #d drams1 #ac_/ad d5i]s1 :ite1 bright1 pure dye4 ,re$ ,calculation--,p] #a in*1 #eb d5ts1 #bb4 #ah #ifb #bj 7#b %r9kage74 ---- ,total 4 4 4 #ihb d5ts4 ,draw+-9--#a/ edge1 #g d5ts1 #db gros de ,t\rs4 ,gr\nd1 #ifh #bb armure #b;d edge1 #g #db gros de ,t\rs4 ,armure gr\nd on #ab %afts1 /raight draw4 ,gros de ,t\rs1 edges on #d %afts4 ,w>p+ ,ticket--,gr\nd w>p1 #ed y>ds4 #aicf_/b :ite4 ,gros de ,t\rs edges1 #ee y>ds4 #bbh_/b :ite1 on sep>ate rolls4 ,total 4 4 4 #cihd s+le ends4 ,h>ness--#ab %afts1 #aicf h$dles1 p] #ah in*es4 #a #h-b_/c #a #d ,%afts gros de ,t\rs edges1 ) #bh h$dles on ea* side4 ,r$uction ( ,fill+--,p] #a in*1 #if picks1 #a end4 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs4 #cihd ends4 #a end #ed y>ds4 #ajjj y>ds #a1ej drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #cihdeda1ejajd ------------------ #a1ca lbs41 or #a lb4 #d1if ozs4 #ajjjbefajj ,page #ic ,fill+ ,calculation--8 lbs4 #ej y>ds4 #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #if picks4 #a pick #ai in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d4 #ajjj y>ds #d drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajh 7#h wa/e74 #ejcfifaidajh ------------------- #a1ed lbs41 or #a lb4 #h1fd ozs4 #cfajjjbefajj ,aft] weav+1 ! small fl[] effects h to be pr9t$ on ! clo?4 99 99 99 99 ,page #ie ,,disposition #f ,pek93 #h %aft sat9 & repp4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd ,page #if ,l5g? & ,wid?--#a piece #ajj y>ds long1 #bj 94 wide4 ,ital4 ,organ41 #a-ce_/ajj drams1 black1 bright1 #bj_/bb oz4 ,/ock & ,dye+--,w>p4 ,ital4 ,organ41 #a-ae_/ajj drams1 sky1 bright1 pure dye ,cotton ,no4 #ajj_/b1 sc>let4 ,fill+4--#c ?reads1 ,jap4 ,tram41 #b-h_/aj drams1 sc>let1 bright1 #ad_/af oz4 #fa1 black sat9 ,re$ ,calculation--,p] #a in*1 #fh d5ts1 #fb1 color$ #ba1 repp4 #bj #acgg #bc 7#a = %r9kage74 ---- ,total #adjj d5ts4 ,draw+-9--#a/ edge1 #g d5ts1 #fb sat94 ,gr\nd1 #cd #fa #b #fb #aj #fa twice #b #ba repp4 ov]4 #aj #fa sat94 #b #fb #ci #fa #e #ba repp4 twice #d #fa sat94 ov]4 #g times #e #ba repp4 ov]4 #ae #fa sat94 #b #ba repp4 #ae #fa sat94 #e #ba repp4 twice #d #fa sat94 ov]4 #e #ba repp4 #e #fa sat94 #bh #fa #b;d edge1 #g #fb ,sat9 on #a/ section ( #h %aft skip draw4 ,b9d] #bnd #b ,repp #c;d #b ,page #ig ,on ea* side ( e repp /ripe two ends ( ! sat9 w>p mu/ be ent]$ on ! #b b9d] %afts 7#b;d section71 to prev5t ! ends ( ! sat9 to slide ov] into ! repp /ripes4 ,w>p+ ,ticket--,i4 ,beam sat91 #ajf y>ds4 #a/ edge1 #db_/b black4 ,gr\nd1 #bjd_/a #ab_/b sky4 #ahj_/a black4 #ab_/b sky4 #bcd_/a black4 #dh_/b sky4 #g times ov]4 #ahj_/a black4 #dh_/b sky4 #cj_/a black4 #afh_/a #b;d edge1 #db_/b #facb s+le ends black4 #afhj sky4 ,,ii4 ,beam repp1 #aaj y>ds4 #d_/a sc>let4 #d_/a #aj_/a #aj_/a #aj_/a #g times ov]4 #d_/a #aj_/a #aj_/a #aj_/a #ejd s+le ends sc>let cotton ,?is w>p has to be beam$ 9 /ripes4 ,make out a diagram = ! w>p] ! same z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ie4 ,page #ih ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ie ,h>ness--,fig4 #ie %[s h[ to make a diagram ( a h>ness = a ,pek94 ,! h$dles are m>k$ p] "o %aft4 ,z ! repp /ripes are only small ones1 we use = ! sat9 a full h>ness1 t is1 "o )\t op5 spaces = ! repp /ripe4 ,all toge!r we h 9 ! sat9 w>p #fhhh s+le & d\ble ends to draw 92 ( ^! #beb ends are us$ = b9d]s1 on bo? sides ( ! repp /ripes4 ,?us rema9 = #h %afts1 #ffcf h$dles p] #bj in*es #a #dj #a ,r$uction ( ,fill+--,p] #a in*1 #add picks1 #a end4 ,w>p ,calculation--8 lbs4 #facb ends 7#afhj ends sky74 #a end #ajf y>ds4 #ajjj y>ds #a1ce drams 7sky #a1ae drams74 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #facbajfa1ceajd ------------------- #c1ef lbs4 = black1 or #c lbs4 #h1if ozs4 #ajjjbefajj #afhjajfa1aeajd ------------------- #j1hc lbs4 = sky1 or #j lbs4 #ac1bh ozs4 #ajjjbefajj ,page #ii 8 lbs4 #ejd ends4 #a end #aaj y>ds4 #hdj y>ds #a ske94 7,no4 #ajj_/b7 #ej ske9s #a lb4 #ajj #ajd 7#d wa/e74 #ejdaajajd ------------- #a1cg lbs4 sc>let cotton1 or #a lb4 #e1ib ozs4 #hdjejajj ,fill+ ,calculation--8 lbs4 #ajj y>ds4 #a y>d #cf in*es4 #a in* #add picks4 #a pick #ba in*es4 #cf in*es #a y>d4 #ajjj y>ds #b1h drams4 #bef drams #a lb4 #ajj #ajh 7#h wa/e74 #ajjcfaddbab1hajh ----------------------- #c1eg lbs41 or #c lbs4 #i1ab ozs4 #cfajjjbefajj 99 99 99 99 99 ,page #ajj ,,jacqu>d ,,weaves ,jacqu>d weaves usually %[ on a pla9 gr\nd figure or fl[] effects4 ,to obta9 ^! effects ! gr\nd is made ( "o weave1 say taffeta1 :ile ! figures or fl[]s are produc$ 9 ano!r weave1 say sat94 ,we ent] ! w>p ?r\gh a jacqu>d h>ness1 & accord+ to ! repeat use a #bjj1 #djj1 #fjj1 #ijj1 #abjj1 etc41 hook jacqu>d ma*9e1 :i* means #bjj1 #djj1 #fjj1 #ijj & #abjj ends p] repeat4 ,) a #fjj-;hook ma*9e a l>g] repeat c be produc$ ?an ) a #dii-;hook ma*9e4 ,= in/ance1 if we want to make a clo? ! figures ( :i* are to be two in*es ap>t1 x is a two-in* repeat1 & use ! c\nt ( #ej_/d or #bjj ends p] in*1 we c use a #djj-;hook ma*9e1 #b 94 x #bjj ends4 ,b we c make ?is clo? also on a #abjj-;hook ma*9e1 only ! repeat mu/ be design$ ?ree times4 ,! advantage ( us+ a #abjj-;hook ma*9e ) ! c\nt #ej_/d is t #b1 #c1 #d1 #f-;in* repeats c be produc$1 :ile ) a #djj-;hook ma*9e1 only a #b-;in* repeat c be made4 ,!re is no end to all ! diff]5t weaves & ! possible fl[] & o!r patt]n effects t c be made ) ! jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,= a jacqu>d weav+ plant ! design+ is ! mo/ important factor4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,box ,,loom ,,weaves ,,includ+ ,,crepes ,box looms are requir$ = weaves su* z bayadres1 *ecks1 plaids 7see pages #fc-fe71 b5gal9es1 crpes1 etc41 :]e two or m %uttles are ne$$ to br+ out ! effect4 ,= ! crpes 7crpe de *9e1 crpe georgette7 only two %uttles are ne$$1 :ile plaids & o!r articles are made ) m %uttles4 ,to weave su* articles ! loom or ! lay mu/ be fitt$ ) two or m %uttle boxes on "o or bo? sides ( ! loom4 ,page #aja ,if a manufactur] decides to *ange pla9 looms to box looms or buy new box looms1 x is wise to get #d #d boxes1 or f\r %uttle boxes on ea* side4 ,) ^! looms ab\t ev]y?+ c be made t is call$ = 9 box-loom effects1 & z /yles *ange1 x is wise to be prep>$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,manufactur+ ,,co/s ,! calculator fir/ asc]ta9s = ! w>p3 ,:at silk w be us$1 ! co/ ( ! same1 total numb] ( ends 9 ! w>ps = ! am\nt ( silk1 co/ ( ?r[+1 dye+1 w9d+1 w>p+1 twi/+1 ent]+1 & weav+4 ,!n ! fill+3 ,silk to be us$1 h[ mu*1 co/ ( silk1 co/ ( ?r[+1 dye+1 w9d+1 d\bl+1 quill+4 ,aft] ?is det]m9e ! co/ ( weav+1 clo? pick+1 f9i%+1 factory co/s1 & sell+ exp5ses4 ,to-day mo/ ( ! op]ations are paid by piece "w4 ,! calculator mu/ always take into consid]ation t poor raw silk or poor dye+ make production sl[1 increase ! co/ ( labor1 & also t m wa/e w be made4 ,,?r[+3 ,regul> organ usually has #af turns p] in* 9 ! fir/ twi/ & #ad turns to ! in* 9 ! second or rev]se twi/4 ,tram receives only "o twi/+1 ab\t ?ree turns to ! in*4 ,z ! w>p twi/+-9 is paid = at s mu* p] hundr$ or ?\s& ends1 no matt] h[ %ort or long ! w>p is1 x is a sav+ to make ! w>ps z long z possible1 especially 9 raw1 black & /aple colors4 ,! calculator mu/ n =get ! co/ ( ent]+ ! fir/ w>p 9 a h>ness1 also ! re$+4 ,mo/ mills figure ! co/ ( h>ness & re$ 9 ! exp5se acc\nts4 ,if pla9 & fancy goods are made an extra p]c5tage %\ld be figur$ = ! latt]4 ,page #ajb ,,exp5ses are figur$ diff]5tly1 z almo/ e manufactur] has 8 own sy/em4 ,if a mill makes only a few /aple articles x is easy to put d[n ! co/ ( exp5ses4 ,say ! mill has a production ( #ejj1jjj y>ds p] ye>1 t ! exp5se am\nts to #ce1jjj1 ! co/ !n is #g c5ts p] y>d4 ,manufactur]s mak+ all k9ds ( goods sometimes figure ! exp5ses 9 p]c5tage1 say1 = pla9 goods1 ) a few picks1 l gros-gra91 peau de soie1 etc41 #aj p] c5t4 p] y>d4 ,taffeta1 sat91 etc41 hav+ m picks1 #ab p] c5t4 p] y>d1 & fancy & jacqu>d goods1 #ae p] c5t4 p] y>d4 ,9 ! exp5se acc\nt we include all *>ges except raw silk1 ?r[+1 dye+ & piece "w4 ,,sell+ ,,exp5ses4 ,be=e a calculation is f9i%$ we mu/ add ! sell+ exp5ses to ! co/1 also take acc\nt ( ! trade disc\nt4 ,small mills usually sell ?r\gh a commission h\se1 :i* pays all exp5ses & *>ges a c]ta9 commission4 ,_m l>ge firms h _! own sell+ end1 & "s h _! sales gu>ante$ by a commission h\se or a bank4 ,page #ajc ,,calculations ,! prices m>k$ 9 ! foll[+ calculations are ab\t z 9 normal times4 ,absolutely correct piece "w prices _c be giv5 z diff]5t localities h diff]5t prices4 ,calculations are usually made p] #ajj y>ds1 #ajj-met] w>ps4 ,mo/ goods ga9 f #c to #g p] c5t4 9 weav+4 ,t is1 if we make a w>p ( #cjj met]s = a sat9 & we obta9 #cae y>ds ( clo?1 ?is ga9 %\ld n be calculat$1 z usually !re is no acc\nt tak5 ( samples us$ 9 ! sell+ dep>tm5t4 ,b ! loss 9 l5g? %\ld be figur$ & tak5 acc\nt ( on goods ) a heavy rib1 su* z moir1 faille1 etc4 ,,disp4 #g--;,a #c #a_/c-;in* repeat c be obta9$ ) a #fjj-;hook jacqu>d ma*9e1 sev5 repeats 9 a wid? ( #bc in*es4 ,,disp4 #h--,taffeta weave1 b ! two cotton picks mu/ g 9 "o hole4 ,?is article c only be made ) at lea/ two %uttle boxes on ea* side4 ,= w>p+ use a s+le & d\ble cross re$1 heavy cotton1 no knots mu/ be ti$4 ,,disp4 #aj--,?is article mu/ be w>p$ ) z mu* t5sion z possible & no knots %\ld be ti$ 94 ,silk is to be deliv]$ on bobb9s f ?r[/]4 ,,canton ,,crepe ,,disp4 #i--;,c also be made ) ,canton silk = fill+ & may be call$ ,canton crpe4 ,z ,canton silk is mu* *eap] ?an ,japan1 ! manufactur] c use #d-?read ,canton in/ead ( #c-?read ,japan = fill+ at a little diff]5ce 9 co/1 ?us ! clo? w be heavi]1 b ,canton silk is n z ev5 & clean z ,japan4 ,page #ajd ,article--,,taffeta ,,glace ,re$ #gj_/c ,disp4 #a ,wid? #ah 94 ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,class #ab_/ad #e4jj raw silk 4#fj ?r[+ #b-,?read ,organ4 br[n bright 4#de dye+ #af-oz4 4#ae w9d+ ----- raw lbs4 #b4fj #f4bj #af4bc ,w>p+--#djcb at #c4 #a4ba ,twi/+--#cigh at #be4 p] #cjj met]s 4#cc ,fill+--,jap4 ,tram4 ,be/ ,no4 #a #ac_/ae #d4be raw silk 4#de ?r[+ #b_/b ends #ajd picks 4#de dye+ 4#ae w9d+ gold bright #af oz4 4#ae d\bl+ 4#aj quill+ ----- raw lbs4 #b4gc #e4ee #ae4jb ,weav+ #g4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ #a4jj ,exp5ses #g4jj ------ #dh4gi #e trade disc\nt #g sell+ commission ,divide by #hg ,co/ p] y>d #j4eegf 99 99 99 99 ,article--,,surah #c-a ,re$ #hj_/b ,disp4 #b ,wid? #cf 94 ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,class4 #aj_/ab #e4bj 4#fe #b-,?read ,organ4 bright black 4#ha disc\nt #ae #bd oz4 4#cj dy$ #bj ----- lbs4 #c4cf #f4if #bc4ci ,w>p+--#eijd at #b4 #a4fb ,twi/+--#ehgb at #ce4--fjj lb4 w>p 4#be ,fill+--cotton #abj_/a #a4be 4#aj dye black #a end #abj picks 4#jh w9d+ 4#jg quill+ ----- lbs4 #i4ej #a4ej #ad4be ,weav+ #ab4jj ,pick+ #a4ej ,f9i%+ #b4jj ,exp5ses #g4jj ----- #fb4ja #e disc\nt #f commission ,divide by #hi ,co/ p] y>d #j4fifg 99 99 99 99 ,page #aje ,article--,,sat9 ,,du*esse ,re$ #ff_/d ,disp4 #c ,wid? #b x #bc 94 ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,class4 #ab_/ad #e4jj 4#fj #b-,?read ,organ4 black bright 4#gc #bb oz4 4#ba ----- lbs4 #h4ej #f4ed #ee4ei ,w>p+--#abfbd at #b4 #c4dg ,twi/+--#abbef at #be4 #fjj met]s 4#ea ,fill+--,jap4 ,tram ,no4 #a--ad_/af #d4jj 4#dj black s\ple #dd oz4 #a4fj net 4#dj #a_/b & #a_/c #a_/e #hj picks 4#dj d\bl+ 4#cj ----- lbs4 #g4ad #g4aj #ej4fi ,weav+ #ac4jj ,pick+ #b4jj ,f9i%+ #b4ej ,exp5ses #h4jj ------- #ace4gf ,divide by #hi ,co/ p] y>d #j4gfbg 99 99 99 99 ,article--,,armure ,,sat9 ,re$ #fj_/d ,disp4 #d ,wid? #bf 94 ,,/ock ,,& ,,dye ,w>p--,jap4 ,ex4 #ab_/ad #d4ge 4#fj #b-,?read ,organ4 black bright 4#fd #bj oz4 4#ai ----- lbs4 #d4cj #f4ah #bf4eg ,w>p+--#febj at #b4 #a4gi ,twi/+--#fdbd at #be4 #fjj met]s 4#bg ,fill+--,jap4 ,tram ,no4 #a #af_/ah #d4jj 4#cj black bright #bf oz4 4#id 4#be #b_/c ends #ajd picks 4#be 4#ag ----- lbs4 #f4hj #e4ia #dj4ai ,weav+ #aj4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ #a4jj ,exp5ses #g4jj ------ #hg4hb ,divide by #hi ,co/ p] y>d #j4ihfg 99 99 99 99 ,page #ajf ,article--,,pr9t$ ,,armure ,re$ #eb_/b_/b ,disp4 #e ,wid? #ah 94 ,,/ock ,,& ,,dye ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,class4 #ab_/ad #e4jj #b-,?read ,organ4 :ite bright 4#fj ,p4,d4 4#bc 4#ab ----- lbs4 #b4fb #e4ie #ae4ei ,w>p+--#cihd_/a at #c4 #a4bj ,twi/+--#aiib_/b at #cj4 #cjj met]s 4#bj ,fill+--,ital4 ,tram4 s\ple #ac_/ad #d4ej 4#cj :ite bright ,p4,d4 4#bc 4#aj #a_/e end #if picks 4#jg ----- lbs4 #c4jh #e4bj #af4jb ,weav+ #h4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ & ,pr9t+ #e4jj ,exp5ses #h4jj ------ #ee4ja ,divide by #hg ,co/ p] y>d #j4fbhg 99 99 99 99 ,page #ajg ,article--,,sat9 ,,/rip$ ,,reps ,re$ #fj_/fb ,disp4 #f ,wid? #bj 94 ,,/ock ,,& ,,dye ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,organ4 #bd_/bf #e4jj black bright #bb oz4 4#fj 4#gc 4#ba ----- lbs4 #c4ef #f4ed #bc4bh ,ital4 ,ex4 ,organ4 #ah_/bj #e4bj 4#fe sky bright ,p4,d4 4#bc 4#ab ----- lbs4 4#hc #f4bj #e4ae ,cotton #ajj_/b #a4jj 4#ab 4#jh ----- sc>let lbs4 #a4cg #a4bj #a4fd ,w>p+--#hcaf at #d4 #c4cb ,twi/+--#gdcd at #ej4 #cjj met]s #a4bd ,fill+--,jap4 tram4 ,no4 #a #ad_/af #d4jj 4#ce sc>let bright #af oz4 #a_/c ends 4#de 4#ae #add picks4 lbs4 #c4eg 4#aj ----- #e4je #ah4jd ,weav+ #ab4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ #a4jj ------ #ff4fg ,exp5ses #ae #aj4jj ------ #gf4fg ,divide by #hg ,co/ p] y>d #j4hgfc 99 99 99 99 ,page #ajh ,article--,,messal9e ,,brocade ,re$ #fj_/c ,disp4 #g ,wid? #bc 94 ,w>p--,jap4 ,ex4 #ac_/ae #d4ej 4#fj #b-,?read navy bright #af oz4 4#de 4#ae ---- lbs4 #c4bj #e4gj #ah4bd ,w>p+--#dcbj at #c4 #a4cj ,twi/+--#dbfj at #cj4 #cjj met]s 4#da ,fill+--,jap4 ,tram ,no4 #a #ac_/ae #d4jj 4#ce em]ald ex4 bright dye #bd oz4 4#ie 4#be #a_/c ends #ajj picks 4#ae ----- lbs4 #b4ej #e4gj #ad4be ,weav+ #i4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ #a4jj ------ #de4bj ,exp5ses #ae #f4gh ------ #ea4ih ,divide by #hg ,co/ p] y>d #j4eida 99 99 99 99 ,article--,,b5gal9e ,re$ #gb_/b by #a s+le2 #a d\ble ,disp4 #h ,wid? #cf 94 ,w>p--,jap4 ex4 #ac_/ae #d4ej 4#fj #b-,?read ,organ4 black bright 4#fd #bj oz4 4#ai ----- lbs4 #e4gg #e4ic #cd4bb ,w>p+--#gifd at #b4 #b4ai ,twi/+--#ebif at #cj4 #fjj met]s 4#bg ,fill+--#ef picks by #d4ej #e organ4 #b ,cotton 4#fj 4#fd 4#ai 4#de 4#ab 4#aj ----- #dj picks ,organ4 z w>p #f4je 4#jh #f4je lbs4 #a 4#jg #af picks black cotton #ae_/d ----- lbs4 #bb4ej 4#gj #ae4ge ,weav+ #ab4jj ,pick+ #a4ej ,f9i%+ #c4jj ,exp5ses #h4jj ------ #hb4ih ,divide by #ia ,co/ p] y>d #j4iaai 99 99 99 99 ,page #aji ,article--,,crepe ,,de ,,*9e 7,taffeta weave7 ,re$ #fj_/b_/b ,disp4 #i ,wid? #dj 94 #dd 94 9 re$ ,w>p--,jap4 ,ex4 ,grege #bj_/bb #d4ej 4#je w9d+ ----- #b wa/e lbs4 #e4fj #d4ee #be4dh ,w>p+--#ecdj_/b at #b4 #b4fg ,twi/+--#ecdj_/b at #be4 #fjj met]s 4#bc ,fill+--,jap4 ,no4 #a #ac_/ae #d ends h>d twi/ #fj turns #d4jj #a4be ?r[+ #hd picks by #b "r1 #b left #j4je quill+ twi/ ----- #be wa/e & %r9kage #e4cj lbs4 #f4jj #ca4hj ,weav+ #i4jj ,f9i%+ & dye+ #e4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,exp5ses #g4jj ------ #hb4ah #e disc\nt #e sell+ exp5se ,divide by #ij ,co/ p] y>d #j4iaca 99 99 99 99 ,article--,,crepe ,,georgette ,re$ #ej_/b 7,taffeta weave7 by #a "r1 #a left twi/ ,disp4 #aj ,wid? #dj 94 #dg 94 9 re$ ,w>p--,ital4 ,ex4 ,class #af_/ah ,raw #e4bj #a4fj ----- #b-,?read h>dtwi/ #ge turns #f4hj #cf4gb #cj %r9kage & wa/e lbs4 #e4dj ,w>p+--#dfdj_/a #cj_/b #dgfj at #d4 #a4ij ,twi/+--#dgjj at #ej4 #fjj met]s 4#dj ,fill+--,same silk z w>p #ajj picks by #b "r1 #b left twi/ #e4bj #a4fj 4#aj ---- lbs4 #e4jj #f4ij #cd4ej ,weav+ #ae4jj ,pick+ #a4jj ,f9i%+ & dye+ #f4jj ------ #ie4eb ,exp5ses #ab #aa4id ------- #ajg4df ,divide by #hg ,co/ p] y>d #a4bbha ,page #aaj ,,calculation ,,blank ,,article,,re$ ,,disp,,wid? ,,w>p ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,w>p+ ,,twi/+ ,,fill+ ,,weav+ ,,pick+ ,,f9i%+ ,,exp5ses ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,price ,,p] ,,y>d ,page #aaa ,,index ,,draw+-,,91 #g ,/raight ,draws1 #g ,skip ,draws1 #i ,po9t ,draws1 #i ,section ,draws1 #aj ,,! ,,weaves ,,& ,,_! ,,con/ruction1 #ae ,! ,taffeta ,weave1 #ag ,gros de ,t\rs ,weaves1 #ai ,s]ge ,weaves1 #bj ,twill ,weaves1 #bj ,,fill+ ,,effects #ba ,sat9 de ,lyon1 #ba ,levant9e1 #ba ,polonaise1 #bb ,s]ge grosse cot1 #bb ,s]ge ,roma9e1 #bc ,s]ge1 #bc ,,w>p ,,effects1 #be ,levant9e1 #be ,,ev5sid$ ,,twills1 #bf ,surah1 #bf ,croise1 #bf ,,po9t$ ,,twills1 #bg ,,sat9 ,,weaves1 #cb ,sat9e de ,*9e1 #cd ,sat9 ,m]veilleux1 #cd #g ,h>ness ,sat91 #ce ,du*esse1 #ce ,,irregul> ,,sat9s1 #ci ,sat9 ,ture1 #ci ,sat9 la ,re9e1 #dj ,,d]ivative ,,weaves1 #da ,f ! ,taffeta1 #da ,f ! ,twills1 #dc ,f ! ,sat9 ,weave1 #df ,cannele & ,repp ,weaves1 #di ,,d\ble ,,fac$ ,,fabrics1 #ee ,w>p ,effects1 #ee ,,fill+ ,,effects1 #eh ,pek9s1 #fj ,bayadres1 #fc ,page #aab ,*ecks & ,plaids1 #fe ,,decomposition1 #fg ,! ,weave1 #fh ,l5g? & ,wid? ( ! ,fabric1 #fh ,! ,/ock & ,its ,dye1 #fi ,re$ ,calculation1 #gj ,draw+-9 ! ,w>p 9 ,h>ness & ,re$1 #gj ,w>p+ ,ticket1 #ga ,h>ness ,arrangem5t1 #ga ,r$uction ( ! ,fill+1 #ga ,calculation ( ,w>p & ,fill+1 #ga ,f9i%+1 #gb ,calculation ( ,co/1 #gb ,,dispositions1 #ge ,,jacqu>d ,,weaves1 #ajj ,box ,loom ,weaves ,includ+ ,crpes1 #ajj ,manufactur+ ,co/s1 #aja ,,calculations1 #ajc ,calculation ,blank1 #aaj ,page #aac ,,o!r ,,books ,publi%$ by ,,clif=d ,,lawton #cgc ,f\r? ,av5ue ,new ,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,! ,,am]ican ,,silk ,,j\rnal ,e/abli%$ #ahhb4 ,a mon?ly magaz9e devot$ exclusively to dress silks1 ribbons1 & all silk5 mat]ials1 reflect+ ! progress ( mill & m>ket1 fa%ions1 trade ev5ts & news4 ,publi%$ on ! fir/ ( ea* mon?4 ,subscription3 ,unit$ ,/ates1 #c2 ,canada1 #c4ej2 ,=eign1 #d a ye>4 ,,s]ivalor or ! ,true ,value ( ,raw ,silk ,by ,,adolf ,,ros5zweig1 ,! great int]national au?ority on silk4 ,a practical & logical sy/em ( /&>diz+ raw silks4 ,price1 #d4be po/paid4 ,,diction>y ,,( ,,silk ,,t]ms ,! mo/ complete & au!ntic diction>y ev] publi%$ on silk t]ms1 f ! raw silk to ! f9i%$ broad & n>r[ silks1 includ+ weaves1 /yles1 patt]ns1 effects1 colors1 trade-m>ks1 etc4 ,b\nd 9 clo?1 #ic pages1 price1 #a4ej po/paid4 ,,color ,,value ,by ,c4,r4 ,,clif=d4 ,a valuable book treat+ on color contra/s & h>monies4 ,x w assi/ ! manufactur]1 /yl]1 design] & retail] 9 ! selection ( colors4 ,color$ plates & diagrams illu/rat+ ! fundam5tal pr9ciples ( ! subject1 ( ine/imable value to ei!r /ud5t or artisan4 ,price1 #a4ej po/paid4 ,,p]iod ,,furni%+s ,by ,c4,r4 ,,clif=d ,an encyclop$ia ( furni%+s1 decorations1 furniture4 ,conta9s #b1gca illu/rations1 #bff pages1 size #i x #ab2 #aab fabric illu/rations1 cov]+ all p]iods4 ,price1 #f4jj po/paid4