,,cassell',s ,,vegetarian ,,cookery4 ,,by ,a4,g4 ,,payne1 ,b4,a4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,sugg',s ,,gold ,,medal ,,westminster ,,gas ,,kitcheners4 ,,enamelled ,,inside ,,and ,,under ,,hot-,,plate4 ,illustration ,,perfect ,,for ,,roasting1 ,,baking1 ,,grilling1 ,,toasting1 ,,and ,,boiling4 ,,will ,,do ,,all ,,that ,,any ,,stove ,,of ,,the ,,same ,,size ,,can ,,do--,,only ,,much ,,better4 ,the only ,gas ,kitchener which ,bakes ,bread perfectly4 ,send for ,pamphlet on ,,sugg',s ,,new ,,method ,,of ,,baking ,,bread4 ,,let ,,on ,,hire ,by the ,gas ,light and ,coke ,co41 the ,south ,metropolitan ,gas ,co41 ,brentford1 ,tottenham1 and many other ,gas ,companies4 ,,william ,,sugg ,,co41 ,ltd41 ,,regency ,,st41 ,,westminster4 99 99 99 99 99 ,complete in ,four ,vols41 price #es4 each4 ,,cassell',s ,book of the ,household4 ,a ,valuable and ,practical ,work on ,every ,department of ,household ,management4 ,with ,numerous ,illustrations4 ,the ,guardian says3 ,,an ,,excellent ,,work1 ,,which ,,should ,,be ,,in ,,the ,,hands ,,of ,,every ,,housekeeper1 is ,,cassell',s ,,book ,,of ,,the ,,household4 ,here we find the most varied information and the soundest of advice4 ,the household1 its members and their family life1 are considered and discussed2 children and their training1 health and disease1 food and clothing1 furnishing1 furniture1 and household mechanics4 ,the arrangement and treatment of these various subjects are admirable1 and the book is certainly a most valuable and practical manual of household management4 ,the ,queen says3 ,a ,,book ,,so ,,handy ,,and ,,practical ,,ought ,,to ,,be ,,adopted ,,by ,,every ,,well-,,ordered ,,family4 ,its plan is so comprehensive1 it will include every part of the house and its requirements1 and all the members of the family and their mutual relations1 duties1 and responsibilities4 ,the ,weekly ,dispatch says3 ,we do not know of any more practical or more valuable work on household management4 ,it is worth its weight in gold4 ,the ,scotsman says3 ,the first volume has appeared of a book which promises to be of great and extensive utility4 ,it is ,a ,,cyclopaedia ,,of ,,information ,,on ,,all ,,questions ,,connected ,,with ,,the ,,management ,,of ,a ,,household1 and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of provisions for the table4 ,various hands have evidently been employed in working up the various sections1 and every subject is dealt with in a thoroughly competent style4 ,the book is admirably appointed in every respect1 and contains many illustrations1 all of the most useful character1 and beautifully printed4 ,,every ,,one ,,who ,,has ,,to ,,do ,,in ,,any ,,way ,,with ,,the ,,management ,,of ,a ,,household ,,will ,,find ,,this ,,book ,,invaluable4 ,the ,liverpool ,mercury says3 ,,cassell',s ,,book ,,of ,,the ,,household is another book1 of a class of which many have been issued1 and good books too2 but this one1 by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement1 will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the rest4444 ,many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be taken up at any leisure hour4 ,the ,glasgow ,herald says3 ,the work promises to be the most complete thing of the kind in existence1 and even the first volume by itself is a perfect household encyclopaedia4 ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,ludgate ,hill1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,saves ,,time1 ,,trouble1 ,,and ,,expense4 ,,ask ,,your ,,grocer ,,for ,,gridley ,,co',s ,,isinglassine4 ,,pure1 ,,nutritious ,,and ,,wholesome4 ,arthur ,hill ,hassall ,e4 ,godwin ,clayton ,a ,,sixpenny ,,packet ,,will ,,make #a ,,quart ,,of ,,brilliant ,,jelly4 ,,no ,,boiling ,,or ,,soaking ,,required4 ,,to ,,be ,,had ,,of ,,all ,,grocers ,,three ,,gold ,,medals ,,awarded4 ,,highest ,,testimonials4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the ,london ,vegetarian ,society1 ,,the ,,memorial ,,hall1 ,,farringdon ,,street1 ,e4,c4 ,president--,a4,f4 ,,hills1 ,esq4 ,treasurer--,,ernest ,,bell1 ,esq41 ,m4,a4 ,secretary--,,may ,,yates4 ,,the ,,london ,,vegetarian ,,society is established for the purpose of advocating the total disuse of the flesh of animals 7fish1 flesh1 and fowl7 as food1 and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits1 grains1 nuts1 and other products of the vegetable kingdom2 and also to disseminate information as to the meaning and principles of ,vegetarianism by lectures1 pamphlets1 letters to the ,press1 c42 and by these means1 and through the example and efforts of its ,members1 to extend the adoption of a principle tending essentially to true civilisation1 to universal humaneness1 and to the increase of human happiness generally4 ,members adopt in its entirety the ,vegetarian system of diet4 ,associates agree to promote the aims of the ,society1 but do not pledge themselves to its practice4 ,,subscribers ,,are ,,entitled ,,to ,,the ,,following ,,advantages3 ,,one ,,shilling ,,per ,,annum4--,minimum ,subscription4 ,,five ,,shillings ,,per ,,annum4--,tickets for ,four ,monthly ,receptions1 ,four ,debates1 and ,four ,conversaziones at half-price1 and be entitled to receive1 free by post1 copies of all new literature published by the ,society under #f;d4 ,,ten ,,shillings ,,per ,,annum4--,tickets for ,four ,monthly ,receptions1 ,four ,debates1 and ,four ,conversaziones1 and to receive1 free by post1 copies of all new literature published by the ,society under #as4 ,,one ,,guinea ,,per ,,annum4--,tickets for ,four ,monthly ,receptions1 ,four ,debates and ,four ,conversaziones1 and to receive1 free by post1 all new literature published by the ,society under #bs41 and copies of the ,vegetarian1 ,the ,hygienic ,review1 and the ,vegetarian ,messenger4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,poor ,,man',s ,,friend ,,and ,,pills4 ,,dr4 ,,roberts' ,,ointment ,,called ,,poor ,,man',s ,,friend ,will ,cure ,,wounds and ,,sores of every description ,,dr4 ,,roberts' ,,alterative ,,pills ,for ,,diseases of the ,,blood and ,,skin4 ,of all ,chemists1 or of the ,proprietors1 ,,bridport1 ,,dorset4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration ,,the ,,rapid ,,cookery ,,steamer4 ,,to ,,fit ,,any ,,saucepan4 ,from #as4 each4 ,,of ,,all ,,ironmongers4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,new ,,and ,,enlarged ,,edition4 ,a ,,year',s ,,cookery4 ,giving ,dishes for ,breakfast1 ,luncheon1 and ,dinner for every ,day in the ,year1 ,by ,,phyllis ,,browne4 ,cloth gilt1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,to the ,new ,edition of this popular book 7which has already attained a sale of upwards of ,twenty ,thousand ,copies7 additional pages have been added on ,food for ,invalids4 ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,ludgate ,hill1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,price #bs4 #f;d4 ,a ,,handbook ,,for ,,the ,,nursing ,,of ,,sick ,,children4 ,by ,,catherine ,j4 ,,wood4 ,miss ,wood's book is succinct1 clearly written1 and goes straight to the heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion4--,health4 ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,ludgate ,hill1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,largest1 ,,cheapest1 ,,and ,,best ,,cookery ,,book4 #a1bhj pages1 royal #hvo1 cloth1 #gs4 #f;d42 roxburgh1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,cassell',s ,dictionary of ,cookery4 ,,illustrated ,,throughout4 ,,containing ,,about #i1jjj ,,recipes4 ,,cassell',s ,,dictionary ,,of ,,cookery is one of the most thorough and comprehensive works of the kind4 ,to expatiate on its abundant contents would demand pages rather than paragraphs4--,the ,times4 ,one of the most handsome1 practical1 and comprehensive books of cookery4--,saturday ,review4 ,it seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is1 the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this country2 an encyclopaedia1 in fact1 of the culinary art in all its branches4 ,it is a dictionary which should be in every household1 and studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the world4--,christian ,world4 ,,cassell',s ,,dictionary ,,of ,,cookery is not only full of solid and valuable information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety of forms1 but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which food may be cooked to the greatest perfection4 ,it supplies the reason why one method is right and another wrong4 ,an estimate of the cost of each recipe is given1 which is valuable information4 ,the recipes themselves are given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity4--,athenaeum4 ,,cassell',s ,,dictionary ,,of ,,cookery contains about #i1jjj recipes1 and is preceded by a treatise on the ,principles of ,culinary ,art and ,table ,management1 which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks1 as those most interested in such instructions1 but by every mistress of a household1 large or small4444 ,the woodcuts dispersed through the pages not only illustrate some of the various species of fish1 game1 fruit1 vegetables1 and herbs to which the recipes refer1 but serve to make the directions for carving more intelligible1 while the coloured plates represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished1 or fruit tastefully arranged1 with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of meat' contrasted with each other side by side4--,morning ,post4 ,the best ,cookery book extant4 ,we know of no equal1 either in the arrangement of its contents1 the number of its recipes1 or the elegance of its illustrations4--,york ,herald4 ,being complete1 it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner1 but what ,i value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and cheapest of dishes1 and gives their cost4 ,there are more shilling or sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost4--,western ,morning ,news4 ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,ludgate ,hill1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,cassell',s ,,vegetarian ,,cookery4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,crosse ,,blackwell',s ,,pickles1 ,,sauces1 ,,flavouring ,,essences1 ,,parisian ,,essence ,,for ,,gravies1 ,grated ,parmesan ,cheese in ,bottles1 ,,pure ,,lucca ,,oil1 ,malt ,vinegar and ,table ,delicacies1 ,,are ,,sold ,,by ,,all ,,grocers4 ,,crosse ,,blackwell1 ,purveyors to the ,queen1 ,,soho ,,square1 ,,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,cassell',s ,,vegetarian ,,cookery4 ,a ,,manual ,,of ,,cheap ,,and ,,wholesome ,,diet4 ,,by ,a4,g4 ,,payne1 ,b4,a4 ,,author ,,of ,,choice ,,dishes1 ,,etc4 ,illustration ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited3 ,,london1 ,,paris ,,melbourne4 #ahia4 99 99 99 99 99 ,for ,puddings1 ,blanc-,mange1 ,custards1 ,,children',s ,,and ,,invalids' ,,diet1 ,and all the ,uses of ,arrowroot1 ,,brown ,,polson',s ,,corn ,,flour ,,has ,a ,,world-,,wide ,,reputation1 ,,and ,,is ,,distinguished ,,for ,,uniformly ,,superior ,,quality4 ,,note4--,purchasers should insist on being supplied with ,,brown ,,polson',s ,,corn ,,flour4 ,inferior qualities1 asserting fictitious claims1 are being offered4 99 99 99 99 99 #hjth ,,thousand1 price #as42 post free1 #as4 #c;d4 ,,cassell',s ,,shilling ,,cookery4 ,this new and valuable ,work contains #cfd pages1 crown #hvo1 bound in limp cloth4 ,this is the ,,largest ,,and ,,most ,,comprehensive ,,work on the subject of cookery ever yet published at the price4--,christian ,age4 ,housekeepers ,,will ,,save ,,many ,,shillings if they follow the practical suggestions and excellent advice given4--,bazaar4 ,,cassell',s ,,shilling ,,cookery is certainly the cheapest manual for the kitchen we have ever received4 ,there are #cfj pages of recipes1 the book is serviceably bound1 and should prove a treasure to any young wife4--,weekly ,times and ,echo4 ,,cassell ,,company1 ,,limited1 ,ludgate ,hill1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,preface4 ,the present work1 though written upon strictly vegetarian principles1 is by no means addressed to vegetarians only4 ,on the contrary1 we hope that the following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing their mode of living by eating far less meat1 and taking vegetables and farinaceous food as a substitute4 ,where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice1 there are tens of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity4 ,again1 there is another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground of health1 and as a means of escaping from the pains attendant on gout1 liver complaint1 or dyspepsia4 ,the class we most wish to reach1 however1 is that one1 increasing we fear1 whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live1 but to live decently4 ,it may seem a strong statement1 but we believe it to be a true one1 that only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what real economy means4 ,should the present work be the means of enabling even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket1 it will not have been written in vain4 ,a4,g4 ,,payne4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,solidified ,,jelly4 ,illustration ,by ,royal ,letters ,patent in ,great ,britain and ,ireland1 #ahhh ,patented in the ,dominion of ,canada1 #ahhi4 ,patented in ,france1 #ahhi4 ,n4 ,s4 ,wales1 #ahhi4 ,victoria1 #ahhi4 ,other ,foreign ,rights reserved4 ,,chelsea ,,table ,,jellies1 ,the ,inventor and ,patentee1 in introducing this high-class article of food1 begs to warn the ,public that the great success and enormous demand the ,,chelsea ,,table ,,jellies have obtained in ,great ,britain has brought many imitators on the ,market4 ,a few ,stores and ,grocers are offering same to the ,public1 no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper1 or for making extra profit4 ,the favour for the ,,chelsea ,,table ,,jelly has been obtained solely upon the merits of the article1 and it is held to be the greatest invention of the kind1 bringing within the reach of all classes this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury4 ,this has been fully endorsed by the unsolicited testimony of high-class ,british journals4 ,the article is put up in cardboard boxes1 in quantities to make #a_/b-pints1 pints1 and quarts of jelly1 and the following are some of the flavours3 ,lemon1 ,orange1 ,vanilla1 ,calves' ,feet1 ,noyeau1 ,raspberry1 ,punch1 and ,madeira4 ,it should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit ,jelly1 which is a totally different article1 this being a pure ,calves' ,feet jelly1 superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter1 as will easily be seen1 being now a thing of the past4 ,on each box is printed a public analyst's report1 also full directions for use4 ,the following advantages are claimed over all other ,calves ,feet jellies3-- #a4 ,it is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies1 and superior in quality4 #b4 ,it never gets mildewed or corky4 #c4 ,it never fails to set or jellify4 #d4 ,its extreme simpleness of preparation1 only requiring to be melted by the addition of hot water1 no flavouring or other matter being required4 #e4 ,it will keep good for any time until made up1 when it will keep good longer than other jellies4 #f4 ,the largest quantity can be made in a few minutes4 ,for persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment1 it will also be found to be a great boon1 as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified state with great satisfaction4 ,on sea voyages and excursions of any kind it will be found invaluable4 ,,beware ,,of ,,spurious ,,imitations1 and ask only for the ,,walter ,,robertson ,,chelsea ,,table ,,jelly4 ,,articles ,,of ,,merit ,,are ,,often ,,pirated ,,by ,,unprincipled ,,traders4 ,to be had of all ,,grocers1 ,,stores1 and ,,confectioners4 ,,certificate ,,of ,,analysis4 ,sample of ,,chelsea ,,table ,,jelly4 ,received #ahhh4 ,i certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above samples3 ,i have examined a sample of ,chelsea ,table jelly1 and find it to be a mixture of ,calves' ,feet jelly and sugar2 it is undoubtedly nutritious and wholesome4 ,it is superior to other samples that ,i have analysed1 as it in much firmer and keeps well4 ,it is clear and bright1 and has evidently been carefully manufactured from pure materials4 ,it has a pleasant flavour1 and is of excellent quality4 7,signed7 ,r4 ,h4 ,,harland1 ,f4,i1,c41 ,f4,c4,s4 ,laboratory1 ,plough ,court1 #cg1 ,lombard ,street4 ,public ,analyst4 ,copy of ,testimonial received ,august #bfth1 #ahia 7unsolicited74 #ei1 ,windsor ,road1 ,southport4 ,august #beth1 #ahia4 ,,gentlemen1--,i may inform you that ,i have tried other makers of jellies1 but have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality4 ,i have mentioned this fact frequently to ,mr4 ,seymour ,mead and to my friends4 ,i am also deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed almost exclusively on your ,calves' ,feet ,jelly for a period of three months1 and who1 when she refused to take other things1 always took most willingly to your jellies4 ,yours respectfully1 ,w1 ,,robertson ,co4 ,m4 ,t4 ,,hanson4 ,this and others may be inspected at the ,works1 ,chelsea1 ,london4 ,,inventors ,,and ,,sole ,,manufacturers 7,,wholesale ,,only73 ,,walter ,,robertson ,,co41 ,,chelsea1 ,,london1 ,s4,w41 ,,england 99 99 99 99 99 ,,contents4 ,,page4 ,,chap4 ,i4--,soups #ag ,,ii4--,,sauces #dd ,,iii4--,,rice1 ,,macaroni1 ,,oatmeal #fj ,,iv4--,,eggs ,,and ,,omelets #gh ,v4--,,salads ,,and ,,sandwiches #if ,,vi4--,,savoury ,,dishes #ajh ,,vii4--,,vegetables1 ,,substantial #abb ,,viii4--,,vegetables1 ,,fresh #acg ,,ix4--,,preserved ,,vegetables ,,and ,,fruits #aeb ,x4--,,jellies 7,,vegetarian7 ,,and ,,jams #aeh ,,xi4--,,creams1 ,,custards1 ,,and ,,cheesecakes #afe ,,xii4--,,stewed ,,fruits ,,and ,,fruit ,,ices #aga ,,xiii4--,,cakes ,,and ,,bread #agg ,,xiv4--,,pies ,,and ,,puddings #ahb 99 99 99 99 99 ,e4,f4 ,,langdale',s ,,prize ,,medal4 ,flavouring ,essences and ,domestic ,specialities ,,for ,,pies1 ,,puddings1 ,,soups1 ,,gravies1 ,,ices1 c4 ,prepared direct from ,herbs1 ,fruits1 and ,spices1 gathered in their bloom and freshness4 ,specially awarded ,prize ,medals1 ,great ,international ,exhibition1 ,london1 #ahea and #ahfb4 7,recommended for all the ,recipes in this work47 ,e4,f4 ,,langdale',s should always be insisted upon4 ,they are ,purest1 ,best1 and ,cheapest4 ,essence ,lemon4 ,strong ,essence ,vanilla4 ,purified ,essence ,almonds ,essence ,noyau4 ,raspberries4 ,essence ,ginger4 ,orange4 ,ratafia4 ,celery4 ,strawberries4 99 99 99 99 99 ,e4,f4 ,,langdale',s ,fruit ,pudding1 ,blancmange1 and4 ,custard ,powders ,,make ,,delicious ,,puddings1 ,,custards1 ,,blancmange4 ,in #b;d4 and #f;d4 ,packets4 ,sold everywhere4 ,,almond4 ,,lemon4 ,,vanilla4 ,,raspberry4 ,,pine ,,apple4 ,,ratafia4 ,,strawberry4 ,,nectarine4 ,,chocolate1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,e4,f4 ,,langdale',s ,prepared ,dried ,english ,herbs1 c4 ,garden ,mint4 ,savoury4 ,parsley4 ,sage4 ,lemon ,thyme4 ,basil4 ,mixed ,sweet ,herbs4 ,soup ,tarragon4 ,celery ,seeds4 ,celery ,salt4 ,herbaceous ,mixture4 ,e4,f4 ,,langdale',s ,,refined ,,jamaica ,,lime ,,juice ,,and ,,pure ,,lemon ,,juice4 ,distilled ,tarragon and ,chill ,vinegar for ,salads and ,sauces4 99 99 99 99 99 ,sole ,agent for ,j4 ,delcroix ,cie4 ,concentrated ,parisian ,essence1 ,,for ,,browning ,,gravies1 c4 7,see pages #bj1 #bb47 ,which should always be bought with their ,name4 ,as used by all ,chefs4 ,j4 ,,delcroix ,,cie4 ,pure ,green ,vegetable ,coloured ,spinach ,extract4 ,perfectly ,harmless4 ,j4 ,,delcroix ,,cie4 ,brilliant ,extract ,cochineal for ,tinting ,ices1 ,pies1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,e4 ,f4 ,,langdale',s ,essence ,distillery1 #gb #gc1 ,,hatton ,,garden1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 ,estab4 #aggj4 ,pamphlets1 ,recipes1 c41 post free4 ,all the above can be obtained of any leading ,grocer4 ,we will send name of nearest ,agent on receipt of post card4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,introduction4 ,we wish it to be distinctly understood at starting1 that the present work is purely a cookery-book1 written on the principles generally adopted by vegetarians2 and as1 until quite recently1 there seemed to be in the minds of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism1 we will quote the following explanation from the head of the report of the ,london ,vegetarian ,society3--,the aims of the ,london ,vegetarian ,society are to advocate the total disuse of the flesh of animals 7fish1 flesh1 and fowl7 as food1 and to promote a more extensive use of pulse1 grains1 fruits1 nuts1 and other products of the vegetable kingdom1 thus propagating a principle tending essentially to true civilisation1 to universal humaneness1 and to the increase of happiness generally4 ,we have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism1 but we consider a few words of explanation necessary4 ,years back many persons were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an abstention from flesh-meat1 but that fish was allowed4 ,such1 however1 is not the case1 according to the rules of most of the ,vegetarian ,societies of the day4 ,on the other hand1 strictly speaking1 real vegetarians would not be allowed the use of eggs and milk2 but it appears that many use these1 though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain4 ,there is no doubt that the vegetable kingdom1 without either milk or eggs1 contains every requisite for the support of the human body4 ,in speaking on this subject1 ,sir ,henry ,thompson observes3--,the vegetable kingdom comprehends the cereals1 legumes1 roots1 starches1 sugar1 herbs1 and fruits4 ,persons who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk1 eggs1 butter1 and lard1 which are choice foods from the animal kingdom4 ,there are other persons1 of course1 who are strictly vegetarian eaters1 and such alone have any right to the title of vegetarians4 ,in the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of parties who take either view4 ,in questions of this kind there will always be found conflicting views4 ,we have no wish or desire to give opinions1 but consider it will be more advisable1 and probably render the book far more useful1 if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts4 ,the origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself1 and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have practised vegetarianism1 either as a religious duty1 or under the belief that they would render the body more capable of performing religious duties4 ,in the year #ajih1 or two years prior to the date of ,henry ,i41 there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the ,christian ,church1 which lived entirely on herbs and roots1 and the society has lasted to the present day4 ,again1 there have been many sects who1 not so strict1 have allowed themselves the use of fish4 ,again1 there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground of health4 ,many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to4 ,on the other hand1 we have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not eating enough4 ,an ,american physician1 some years ago1 alleged he had discovered the cause1 his argument being that the more work the stomach had to do the stronger it would become1 on the same principle that the arm of a blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work4 ,of one thing we are certain1 and that is1 there will always be rival physicians and rival sects2 but the present work will simply be a guide to those who require1 from whatever cause1 a light form of diet4 ,perhaps the greatest benefit vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view4 ,rome was not built in a day2 and if we look back at the past history of this country1 during the last half-century1 in regard to food1 we shall see that there have been many natural changes at work4 ,waves of thought take place backwards and forwards1 but still the tide may flow4 ,some fifty years ago there was1 undoubtedly1 a strong impression 7with a large number of right-minded people7 that plenty of meat1 beer1 and wine were good for all1 even for young children4 ,the medical profession are very apt to run in flocks1 and follow some well-known leader4 ,at the period to which we refer1 numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty4 ,this old-fashioned idea has passed away4 ,one great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy2 and here we feel that we stand on firm ground1 without danger of offending sincere opinions1 which are often wrongly called prejudices4 ,to a great extent1 the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from necessity4 ,nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily ensues4 ,we believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear4 ,persons are too apt to think that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat4 ,in ,india we have a feeble race1 living chiefly on rice4 ,on the other hand1 in ,china1 for bodily strength1 few can compare with the ,coolies4 ,for many years in ,scotland the majority lived on oatmeal1 while in ,ireland they lived on potatoes4 ,we do not wish to argue anything from these points1 but to bring them forward for consideration4 ,probably1 strength of body and mind1 as a general rule1 depends upon breed1 and this argument tells two ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong1 and will cease to be cruel2 nor does it follow that those who have been accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they become vegetarians4 ,as we have said1 the great motive that induces many to give vegetarianism a trial is economy2 and if persons would once get rid of the idea that they risk their health by making a trial1 much would be done to advance the cause4 ,another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial is the revolution it would create in their households4 ,here again we are beset by difficulties1 and these difficulties can only disappear gradually1 after long years of patience4 ,we believe the progress towards vegetarianism must of necessity be a very slow one4 ,no large ,west ,end tradesman could possibly insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians because he becomes one himself4 ,we believe and hope that the present work will benefit those who are undergoing a slow but gradual change in their mode of living4 ,this is easiest in small households1 where no servants are kept at all1 where the mistress is both cook and mother4 ,it is in such households that the change is possible1 and very often most desirable4 ,in many cases trial will be made gradually4 ,the great difficulty to contend with is prejudice1 or1 rather1 we may say1 habit4 ,there are many housekeepers who feel that their bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were they to adopt vegetarian ideas4 ,there are few better dinners--especially for children--than a good basin of soup1 with plenty of bread2 yet1 as a rule1 there are few housekeepers who would know how to make vegetarian soup at all4 ,in our present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups4 ,at any rate1 here is no lack of variety1 as small housekeepers in this country are not famed for their knowledge of soup making1 even with gravy-beef at their disposal4 ,on looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases cream--or1 at any rate1 milk--is recommended4 ,we can well imagine the housekeeper exclaiming1 ,i don't call this economy4 ,this is one point about which we consider a few words of explanation necessary4 ,we will suppose a family of eight1 who have been accustomed to live in the ordinary way1 are going to have a vegetarian dinner by way of trial4 ,some soup has to be made1 and one or two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer's1 as the case may be1 are going to be cooked on a new method1 and the housekeeper is horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce4 ,people must1 however1 bear in mind that changes are gradual1 and that often1 at first starting1 a degree of richness1 or what they would consider extravagance1 is advisable if they wish to reconcile others to the change4 ,in our dinner for eight we would first ask them how much meat would they have allowed a head8 ,at the very lowest computation1 it could not have been decently done under a quarter of a pound each1 even if the dish of meat took the economical form of an ,irish stew2 and had a joint1 such as a leg of mutton1 been placed upon the table1 it would probably have been considerably more than double4 ,supposing1 however1 instead of the meat1 we have three vegetables--say haricot beans1 potatoes1 and a cabbage4 ,with the assistance of some really good butter sauce1 these vegetables1 eaten with bread1 make an agreeable meal1 which1 especially in hot weather1 would probably be a pleasant change4 ,supposing1 for the sake of argument1 you use half a pound of butter in making the butter sauce4 ,this sounds1 to ordinary cooks1 very extravagant1 even supposing butter to be only one shilling per pound4 ,suppose1 however1 this half a pound of butter is used as a means of going without a leg of mutton8 ,that is the chief point to be borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow4 ,the cream1 butter1 and eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale quantities1 but1 as a set-off against this1 you have no butcher's bill at all4 ,we do not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of butter1 eggs1 and occasionally cream1 is necessary2 but we believe that there are many families who will be only able to make the change by substituting nice dishes1 at any rate at first starting1 to make up for the loss of the meat4 ,it is only by substituting a pleasant kind of food1 that many will be induced even to attempt to change4 ,gradually the living will become cheaper and cheaper2 but it is unwise to attempt1 in a family1 to do too much at once4 ,there are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended2 for instance1 artichoke soup1 bean soup1 cauliflower soup1 and celery soup4 ,after partaking of a well-made basin of one of these soups1 followed by one or two vegetables and a fruit pie or stewed fruit1 there are many persons who would voluntarily remark1 ,i don't seem to care for any meat4 ,on the other hand1 were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style1 but without any meat1 there are many who would feel that they were undergoing a species of privation1 even if they did not say so--we refer to a dish of plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread1 or even the ordinary cabbage served in the usual way4 ,supposing1 however1 a nice little new cabbage is sent to table1 with plenty of really good white sauce or butter sauce1 over which has been sprinkled a little bright green parsley1 whilst some crisp fried bread surrounds the dish--the cabbage is converted into a meal2 and if we take into account the absence of the meat1 we still save enormously4 ,the advice we would give1 especially to young housekeepers1 is1 ,persuasion is better than force4 ,if you wish to teach a child to swim1 it is far easier to entice him into shallow water on a hot summer's day than to throw him in against his will in winter time4 ,another point which we consider of great importance is appearances4 ,as far as possible1 we should endeavour to make the dishes look pretty4 ,we are appealing to a very large class throughout the country who at all cost wish to keep up appearances4 ,it is an important class1 and one on which the slow but gradual march of civilisation depends4 ,we fear that any attempt to improve the extreme poor1 who live surrounded by dirt and misery1 would be hopeless1 unless they still have some lingering feeling of this self-respect4 ,for the poor woman who snatches a meal off bread-and-dripping1 which she eats without a table-cloth1 and then repairs to the gin-shop to wash it down1 nothing can be done4 ,this class will gradually die out as civilisation advances4 ,this is seen1 even in the present day1 in ,america4 ,fortunately1 there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking not merely for refinement1 but even elegance4 ,do not despise the sprinkle of chopped parsley and red specks of bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal1 so often referred to throughout the following pages4 ,remember that the cost of these little accessories to comfort is virtually nil4 ,we must remember also that one sense works upon another4 ,we can please the palate through the eye4 ,there is some undoubted connection between these senses4 ,if you doubt it1 suck a lemon in front of a ,german band and watch the result4 ,the sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the carnivorous animals at the ,zoo4 ,this is often noticeable in the case of a dog watching people eat1 and it is an old saying1 ,it makes one's mouth water to look at it4 ,in the case of endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up persons1 such as husband or children1 there is perhaps no method we can pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty4 ,a dish of bright red tomatoes1 reposing on the white bosom of a bed of macaroni1 relieved here and there by a few specks of green--what a difference to a similar dish all mashed up together1 and in which the macaroni showed signs of dirty smears6 ,we have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions about those dishes which will replace meat4 ,for instance1 the vast majority of pies and puddings will remain the same1 and need no detailed treatment here4 ,butter supplies the place of suet or lard1 and any ordinary1 cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose2 but it is in dealing with soups1 sauces1 rice1 macaroni1 and vegetables1 sent to table under new conditions1 that we hope this book will be found most useful4 ,as a rule1 ,english women cooks1 especially when their title to the name depends upon their being the mistress of the house1 will often find that soups and sauces are a weak point4 ,do not despise1 in cooking1 little things4 ,those who really understand such matters will know how vast is the difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of thyme or teaspoonful of savoury herbs1 and yet there are tens of thousands of houses1 where meat is eaten every day1 who never had a bottle of thyme at their disposal in their lives4 ,as we have said1 if we are going to make a great saving on meat1 we can well afford a few trifles1 so long as they are trifles4 ,a sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months2 and if we give up our gravy beef1 or piece of pickled pork1 or two-pennyworth of bones1 as the case may be1 surely we can afford a little indulgence of this kind4 ,a few words on the subject of fritters4 ,when will ,english housekeepers grasp the idea of frying8 ,they cannot get beyond a dab of grease or butter in a frying-pan4 ,the bath of boiling oil seems to be beyond them1 or at any rate a degree of civilisation that has not yet passed beyond the limit of the fried-fish shop4 ,the oil will do over and over again1 and in the end is undoubtedly cheaper than the dab of grease or butter thrown away4 ,there are hundreds of men who1 in hot weather1 would positively prefer a well-cooked vegetable fritter to meat1 but yet they rarely get it at home4 ,fruit fritters are also very economical--orange fritters1 apple fritters1 c41 because the batter helps to make the dish a meal4 ,those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably be of opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject of fruit and nuts4 ,this is not because we do not believe in their usefulness1 but because we think that those who are changing their mode of living will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out4 ,there is moreover little or no cookery involved in these articles4 ,of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed2 and as people become more advanced vegetarians1 the desire for fruit and nuts will follow in due course4 ,in future years1 as the demand increases1 the supply will increase2 but this is a question of time4 ,lookers-on often see more of the game than the players4 ,it is not because the sudden change might not be beneficial1 but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in rare instances1 that we have taken the view we have4 ,prejudice is strong1 and it would be very difficult to persuade persons1 unless they had been gradually brought to the change1 to regard nuts in the light of food4 ,to suggest a meal off ,brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put vegetarianism in a ridiculous light1 and nothing kills so readily as ridicule4 ,in conclusion1 it will be observed that from time to time we have used the expression1 if wine be allowed4 ,there is no necessary connection between vegetarianism and teetotalism1 but it would be affectation to deny the fact that they are generally connected4 ,of the numerous arguments brought forward by the advocates of vegetarianism1 one is that1 in the opinion of many who speak with authority1 a vegetarian diet is best adapted to those--of whom1 unfortunately1 there are many--who1 from time to time1 have a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial to their health4 ,many medical men are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic stimulant1 and that they can give up the latter more easily by abstaining from the former4 ,this is a question for medical men to decide1 as it does not properly come into the province of the cook4 ,we have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs2 but when these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in the same light as if taken alone4 ,there is a common sense in these matters which should never be overlooked4 ,the teetotaler who attended the ,lord ,mayor's dinner1 and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup1 would be consistent2 but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground that a little wine1 probably ,madeira1 might have been added1 would proclaim him to be a faddist4 ,it is to be regretted that in the present day so many good causes have been injured by this ostentation of carrying ideas to an extreme4 ,practically1 where wine is used in cookery1 it is added solely for the peculiar flavour1 and the alcohol itself is evaporated4 ,to be consistent1 the vast majority of teetotal drinks1 and possibly even stewed fruit itself1 would have to be refused on the same ground1 viz41 an almost infinitely small trace of alcohol4 ,we think it best to explain the reason we have introduced the expression1 if wine be allowed4 ,in each case it is used for flavouring1 and flavouring purposes only4 ,we know that with some persons a very small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more1 and when this is the case the small quantity should be avoided2 but in the case of the quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this effect1 even if not boiled away as it really is1 no harm can possibly arise4 ,where wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat1 this would be the case4 ,on the other hand1 in the case of tipsy-cake1 and wine added to compote of fruit1 this would probably not be the case4 ,a great distinction should be drawn between such cases4 ,it will be found1 however1 that in every case we have mentioned the addition is altogether optional1 or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its place4 ,,vegetarian ,,cookery ,,chapter #a4 ,,soups4 ,,general ,,instructions4 ,there are very few persons1 unless they have made vegetarian cookery a study1 who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made without the use of meat or fish4 ,as a rule1 ordinary cookery-books have the one exception of what is called soup maigre4 ,in ,england it seems to be the impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the amount of nourishment that can be compressed into a small space4 ,it is1 however1 a great mistake to think that because we take a large amount of nourishment we are necessarily nourished4 ,there is a limit1 though what that limit is no one can say1 beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious4 ,a quarter of a pound of ,liebig's ,extract of ,meat dissolved in half a pint of water is obviously an over-dose of what is considered nourishment4 ,in ,france1 as a rule1 soup is prepared on an altogether different idea4 ,it is a light1 thin broth1 taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen the stomach1 in order to render it capable of receiving more substantial food to follow4 ,vegetarian soups are1 of course1 to be considered from this latter point of view4 ,we think these few preliminary observations necessary as we have to overcome a very strong ,english prejudice1 which is too apt to despise everything of which the remark can be made--,ah6 but there is very little nourishment in it4 ,vegetarian soups1 as a rule1 and especially the thin ones1 must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which1 with a small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately delicate stomach to commence a repast that experience has found best adapted to its requirements4 ,the basis of all soup is stock1 and in making stock we1 of course1 have to depend upon vegetables1 fruit1 or some kind of farinaceous food4 ,to a certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has been boiled may be regarded as stock1 especially water that has boiled roots1 such as potatoes2 or grains1 such as rice4 ,it will not1 however1 be necessary to enter into any general description as to the best method of obtaining nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain1 as directions will be given in each recipe1 but a few words are necessary on the general subject of flavouring stock4 ,in making ordinary soup we are very much dependent for flavour1 if the soup be good1 on the meat1 the vegetables acting only as accessories4 ,in making stock for vegetarian soups we are chiefly dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves1 and consequently great care must be taken that these flavourings are properly blended4 ,the great difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books1 and in understanding them when given1 is the insuperable one of avoiding vague expressions4 ,for instance1 suppose we read1 ,take two onions1 one carrot1 one turnip1 and one head of celery1--what does this mean8 ,it will be found practically that these directions vary considerably according to the neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live4 ,for instance1 so much depends upon where we take our head of celery from4 ,suppose we bought our head of celery in ,bond ,street or the ,central ,arcade in ,covent ,garden ,market on the one hand1 or off a barrow in the ,mile ,end ,road on the other4 ,again1 onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast line between a little pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a ,spanish onion as big as a baby's head4 ,it would be possible to be very precise and say1 ,take so many ounces of celery1 or so many pounds of carrot1 but practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist's shop4 ,cooks1 whether told to use celery in heads or ounces1 would act on guess-work just the same4 ,what are absolutely essential are two things--common sense and experience4 ,again1 practically1 we must avoid giving too many ingredients4 ,novices in the art of cooking are1 of course1 unable to distinguish between those vegetables that are absolutely essential and those added to give a slight extra flavour1 but which make very little difference to the soup whether they are added or not4 ,we are often directed to add a few leaves of tarragon1 or chervil1 or a handful of sorrel4 ,of course1 in a large kitchen1 presided over by a ,francatelli1 these are easily obtainable2 but in ordinary private houses1 and in most parts of the country1 they are not only unobtainable but have never even been heard of at the greengrocer's shop4 ,in making soups1 as a rule1 the four vegetables essential are1 onion1 celery1 carrot and turnip2 and we place them in their order of merit4 ,in making vegetarian soup it is very important that we should learn how to blend these without making any one flavour too predominant4 ,this can only be learnt by experience4 ,if we have too much onion the soup tastes rank2 too much celery will make it bitter2 too much carrot often renders the soup sweet2 and the turnip overpowers every other flavour4 ,again1 these vegetables vary so much in strength that were we to peel and weigh them the result would not be uniform1 in addition to the fact that not one cook in a thousand would take the trouble to do it4 ,perhaps the most dangerous vegetable with which we have to deal is turnip4 ,these vary so very much in strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will be found too strong4 ,in flavouring soups with these vegetables1 the first care should be to see that they are thoroughly cleansed4 ,in using celery1 too much of the green part should be avoided if you wish to make first-rate soup4 ,in using the onions1 if they are old and strong1 the core can be removed4 ,in using carrot1 if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will be cut up and served in the soup1 you should always peel off the outside red part of the carrot and reserve it for this purpose1 and only use the inside or yellow part for flavouring purposes if is going to be thrown away or to lose its identity by being rubbed through a wire sieve with other vegetables4 ,with regard to turnip1 we can only add one word of caution--not too much4 ,we may here mention1 before leaving the subject of ingredients1 that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion1 and can also be used in conjunction with it4 ,as a rule1 in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare1 and1 of course1 from an economical point of view1 they are not to be compared with thick soups4 ,some persons1 in making stock1 recommend what is termed bran tea4 ,half a pint of bran is boiled in about three pints of water1 and a certain amount of nutriment can be extracted from the bran1 which also imparts colour4 ,for the purpose of colouring clear soups1 however1 there is nothing in the world to compare with what ,french cooks call caramel4 ,caramel is really burnt sugar4 ,there is a considerable art in preparing it1 as it is necessary that it should impart colour1 and colour only4 ,when prepared in the rough-and-ready manner of burning sugar in a spoon1 as is too often practised in ,english kitchens1 this desideratum is never attained1 as you are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt flavour4 ,the simplest and by far the most economical method of using caramel is to buy it ready-made4 ,it is sold by all grocers under the name of ,parisian ,essence4 ,a small bottle1 costing about eightpence1 will last a year1 and saves an infinite loss of time1 trouble1 and temper4 ,by far the most economical soups are the thick1 where all the ingredients can be rubbed through a wire sieve4 ,thick soups can be divided into two classes--ordinary brown soup1 and white soup4 ,the ordinary brown is the most economical1 as in white soups milk is essential1 and if the soup is wished to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream4 ,soups owe their thickness to two processes4 ,we can thicken the soup by adding flour of various kinds1 such as ordinary flour1 corn-flour1 c41 and soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which it is composed rubbed through a sieve4 ,this class of soups may be called ,purees4 ,for instance1 ,palestine soup is really a puree of ,jerusalem artichokes2 ordinary pea soup is a puree of split peas4 ,in making our ordinary vegetarian soups of all kinds1 as a rule1 all the ingredients should be rubbed through a sieve4 ,the economy of this is obvious on the face of it4 ,in the case of thickening soup by means of some kinds of flour1 for richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary flour that has been cooked4 ,this is what ,frenchmen call roux4 ,as white and brown roux are the very backbone of vegetarian cookery a few words of explanation may not be out of place4 ,on referring to the recipe for making white and brown roux1 it will be seen that it is simply flour cooked by means of frying it in butter1 ,in white roux each grain of flour is cooked till it is done4 ,in brown roux each grain of flour is cooked till it is done brown4 ,we cannot exaggerate the importance of getting cooks to see the enormous difference between thickening soups or gravy with white or brown roux and simply thickening them with plain butter and flour4 ,the taste of the soup in the two cases is altogether different4 ,the difference is this4 ,suppose you have just been making some pastry--some good1 rich1 puff paste--you have got two pies1 and1 as you probably know1 this pastry is simply butter and flour4 ,place one pie in the oven and bake it till it is a nice rich brown4 ,now taste the pie-crust4 ,it is probably delicious4 ,now taste the piece of the pie that has not been baked at all4 ,it is nauseous4 ,the difference is--one is butter and flour that has been cooked1 the other is butter and flour that has not been cooked4 99 99 99 99 99 ,one word of warning in conclusion4 ,cooks should always remember the good old saying--that it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing4 ,they should be particularly warned to bear this in mind in adding herbs1 such as ordinary mixed flavouring herbs1 or1 as they are sometimes called1 savoury herbs1 and thyme4 ,this is also very important if wine is added to soup1 though1 as a rule1 vegetarians rarely use wine in cooking2 but the same principle applies to the substitute for wine--viz41 lemon juice4 ,it is equally important to bear this in mind in using white and brown roux4 ,if we make the soup too thick we spoil it1 and it is necessary to add water to bring it to its proper consistency1 which1 of course1 diminishes the flavour4 ,the proper consistency of any soup thickened with roux should be that of ordinary cream4 ,beyond this point the cooked flour will overpower almost every other flavour1 and the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is its simplicity1 it appeals to a taste that is refined and natural1 and not to one that has been depraved4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,stock4--,strictly speaking1 in vegetarian cookery1 stock is the goodness and flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables1 the chief ones being onion1 celery1 carrot1 and turnip4 ,in order to make stock1 take these vegetables1 cut them up into small pieces1 after having thoroughly cleansed them1 place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them1 and let them boil gently for several hours4 ,the liquor1 when strained off1 may be called stock4 ,it can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs1 pepper1 and salt1 as well as a little mushroom ketchup4 ,it can be coloured with a few drops of ,parisian essence1 or burnt sugar4 ,its consistency can be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour4 ,sufficient corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum4 ,in a broader sense1 the water in which rice1 lentils1 beans and potatoes have been boiled may be called stock4 ,again1 the water in which macaroni1 vermicelli1 sparghetti1 and all kinds of ,italian paste has been boiled1 may be called stock4 ,the use of liquors of this kind must be left to the common sense of the cook1 as1 of course1 it would only be obtainable when these materials are required for use4 ,,brown ,,and ,,white ,,thickening1 ,,or ,,roux4--,it is of great importance for vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly good stock of white and brown roux1 as it is a great saving both of time and money4 ,as roux will keep good for weeks1 and even months1 there is no fear of waste in making a quantity at a time4 ,take a pound of flour1 with a spoonful or two over2 see that it is thoroughly dry1 and then sift it4 ,next take a pound of butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much as possible to extract all the moisture from it4 ,next take a stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and melt the butter till it runs to oil4 ,it will now be found that1 although the bulk of the butter looks like oil1 a certain amount of froth will rise to the top4 ,this must be carefully skimmed off4 ,continue to expose the butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to rise4 ,now pour off the oiled butter very gently into a basin till you come to some dregs4 ,these should be thrown away1 or1 at any rate1 not used in making the roux4 ,now mix the pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter1 which is what the ,french cooks call clarified butter4 ,place it back in the stew-pan1 put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire1 but not too fierce1 as there is a danger of its burning4 ,with a wooden spoon keep stirring this mixture1 and keep scraping the bottom of the stew-pan1 first in one place and then in another1 being specially careful of the edges1 to prevent its burning4 ,gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour4 ,as soon as this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it in a basin4 ,this is the white roux1 viz41 flour cooked in butter but not discoloured beyond a very trifling amount4 ,keep the stew-pan on the fire1 and go on stirring the remainder1 which will get gradually darker and darker in colour4 ,as soon as the colour is that of light chocolate remove the stew-pan from the fire altogether1 but still continue scraping and stirring for a few minutes longer1 as the enamel retains the heat to such an extent that it will sometimes burn after it has been removed from the fire4 ,it is important not to have the mixture too dark1 and it will be found by experience that it gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the fire4 ,when we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake of chocolate that has been broken4 ,the inside is the colour1 not the outside4 ,it is advisable sometimes to have by you ready a large slice of onion1 and if you think it is dark enough you can throw this in and immediately by this means slacken the heat4 ,pour the brown roux into a separate basin1 and put them by for use4 ,in the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be used than brown1 consequently more than half should be removed if this is the case when the roux first commences to turn colour4 ,when the brown roux gets cold it has all the appearance of chocolate1 and when you use it it is best to scrape off the quantity you require with a spoon1 and not add it to soups or sauces in one lump4 ,,almond ,,soup4--,take half a pound of sweet almonds and blanch them1 i4e41 throw them into boiling water till the outside skin can be rubbed off easily with the finger4 ,then immediately throw the white almonds into cold water1 otherwise they will quickly lose their white colour like potatoes that have been peeled4 ,next1 slice up an onion and half a small head of celery1 and let these simmer gently in a quart of milk4 ,in the meantime pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg1 strain off the milk and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk gradually1 and let it boil over the fire4 ,add sufficient white roux till the soup becomes of the consistency of cream4 ,serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,it is a great improvement to add half a pint of cream1 but this makes the soup much more expensive4 ,the soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper4 ,n4,b4--,the onion and celery that was strained off can be used again for flavouring purposes4 ,,apple ,,soup4--,this is a ,german recipe4 ,take half a dozen good-sized apples1 peel them and remove the core1 and boil them in a quart of water with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs2 add the juice of a lemon1 and flavour it with rather less than a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon2 sweeten the soup with lump sugar1 previously having rubbed six lumps on the outside of the lemon4 ,,artichoke ,,soup4--,take a dozen large ,jerusalem artichokes about as big as the fist1 or more to make up a similar quantity4 ,peel them1 and1 like potatoes1 throw them into cold water in order to prevent them turning colour4 ,boil them in as little water as possible1 as they contain a good deal of water themselves1 till they are tender and become a pulp1 taking care that they do not burn1 and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan at the bottom with a piece of butter4 ,now rub them through a wire sieve and add them to a pint of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been boiled4 ,add also two lumps of sugar and a little white pepper and salt4 ,serve the soup with fried or toasted bread4 ,this soup can be made much richer by the addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple of yolks of eggs4 ,if yolks of eggs are added1 beat up the yolks separately and add the soup gradually1 very hot1 but not quite boiling1 otherwise the yolks will curdle4 ,,asparagus ,,soup4--,take a good-sized bundle 7about fifty large heads7 of asparagus1 and after a thorough cleansing throw them into a saucepan of boiling water that has been salted4 ,when the tops become tender1 drain off the asparagus and throw it into cold water1 as by this means we retain the bright green colour2 when cold cut off all the best part of the green into little pieces1 about half an inch long1 then put the remainder of the asparagus--the stalk part--into a saucepan1 with a few green onions and a few sprigs of parsley1 with about a quart of stock or water2 add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated nutmeg4 ,let this boil till the stalks become quite tender1 then rub the whole through a wire sieve and thicken the soup with a little white roux1 and colour it a bright green with some spinach extract4 ,now add the little pieces cut up1 and let the whole simmer gently1 and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,n4,b4--,,spinach ,,extract4--,it is very important in making all green vegetable soups that they should be of a green colour1 such as the one above mentioned--green-pea soup1 c41 and that we get a good colour1 and this is only to be obtained by means of spinach extract4 ,spinach extract can be made at home1 but it will be found to be far more economical to have a small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house4 ,these bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of about tenpence or one shilling each4 ,such a very small quantity goes such a long way that one bottle would probably last a family of six persons twelve months4 ,as we have said1 it can be made at home1 but the process1 though not difficult1 is troublesome4 ,it is made as follows3--,a quantity of spinach has1 after being thoroughly washed1 to be pounded in a mortar until it becomes a pulp4 ,this pulp is then placed in a very strong1 coarse cloth1 and the cloth is twisted till the juice of the spinach is squeezed out through the cloth4 ,the amount of force required is very considerable and is almost beyond the power of ordinary women cooks4 ,this juice must now be placed in a small enamelled saucepan1 and must be heated till it becomes thick and pulpy1 when it can be put by for use4 ,it will probably be found cheaper to buy spinach extract than to make it1 as manual labour cannot compete with machinery4 ,,barley ,,soup4--,take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured4 ,put this in a saucepan with about two quarts of water1 two onions sliced up1 a few potatoes sliced very thin1 and about a saltspoonful of thyme4 ,let the whole boil gently for four or five hours1 till the barley is quite soft and eatable4 ,thicken the soup very slightly with a little white roux1 season it with pepper and salt4 ,before serving the soup1 add a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley4 ,n4,b4--,when chopped parsley is added to any soup or sauce1 such as parsley and butter1 it is very important that the parsley be blanched4 ,to blanch parsley means to throw it for a few seconds into boiling water4 ,by this means a dull green becomes a bright green4 ,the best method to blanch parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a few seconds in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,by comparing the colour of the parsley that has been so treated with some that has not been blanched1 cooks will at once see the importance of the operation so far as appearances are concerned4 ,,beetroot ,,soup4--,this soup is better adapted to the ,german palate than the ,english1 as it contains both vinegar and sugar1 which are very characteristic of ,german cookery4 ,take two large beetroots and two good-sized onions1 and after peeling the beetroots boil them and mince them finely1 adding them1 of course1 to the water in which they were boiled1 or still better1 they can be boiled in some sort of stock4 ,add a very small quantity of corn-flour1 to give a slight consistency to the soup1 as well as a little pinch of thyme4 ,next add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar--more or less according to taste--a spoonful of brown sugar1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,,bean ,,soup1 ,,or ,,puree ,,of ,,red ,,haricot ,,beans4--,put a quart of red haricot beans into soak overnight1 and put a little piece of soda in the water to soften it4 ,the next morning put the beans on to boil in three quarts of water1 with some carrot1 celery and onion1 or the beans can be boiled in some stock made from these vegetables4 ,after the beans are tender1 pound them in a mortar1 and then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 after first removing the carrot1 celery and onion4 ,add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and about two ounces of butter4 ,fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup4 ,if the soup is liked thin1 of course more water can be added4 ,,bean ,,soup1 ,,or ,,puree ,,of ,,white ,,haricot ,,beans4--,proceed exactly as in the above recipe1 only substituting white haricot beans for red4 ,it is a great improvement to add a little boiling cream1 but of course this makes the soup much more expensive4 ,some cooks add a spoonful of blanched1 chopped parsley to this puree1 and ,frenchmen generally flavour this soup with garlic4 ,,bean ,,soup1 ,,green4--,boil a quart of ordinary broad-beans in some stock or water with an onion1 carrot and celery4 ,remove the skins when the beans are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve4 ,colour the soup with a little spinach extract--7vegetable colouring1 sold in bottles7--add a little piece of butter1 a little powdered sugar1 pepper and salt4 ,the amount of stock or water must depend upon whether it is wished to have the puree thick or thin4 ,some purees are made as thick as bread sauce1 while some persons prefer them much thinner4 ,this is purely a matter of taste4 ,,bean ,,soup ,,from ,,french ,,beans4--,this is an admirable method of using up ,french beans or scarlet runners when they get too old to be boiled as a vegetable in the ordinary way4 ,take any quantity of ,french beans and boil them in some stock or water with an onion1 carrot1 or celery for about an hour1 taking care1 at starting1 to throw them into boiling water in order to preserve their colour4 ,it is also a saving of trouble to chop the beans slightly at starting1 i4e41 take a bunch of beans in the left hand and cut them into pieces1 say an eighth of an inch in thickness4 ,boil them till they are tender1 and then rub the whole through a wire sieve4 ,add a little butter1 pepper and salt1 and colour the soup with spinach extract--7vegetable colouring1 sold in bottles74 ,serve toasted or fried bread with the puree1 which should be rather thick4 ,,cabbage ,,soup4--,take a white cabbage and slice it up1 and throw it into some stock or water1 with some leeks and slices of turnip4 ,boil the whole till the vegetables are tender1 flavour with pepper and salt4 ,this is sometimes called ,cornish broth1 though in ,cornwall a piece of meat or bones are generally boiled with the vegetables4 ,as no meat1 of course1 is used1 too much water must not be added1 but only sufficient liquor must be served to make the vegetables thoroughly moist4 ,perhaps the consistency can best be described by saying that there should be equal quantities of vegetables and fluid4 ,,carrot ,,soup4--,if you wish this soup to be of a good colour1 you must only use the outside1 or red part1 of the carrot1 in which case a dozen large carrots will be required4 ,if economy is practised1 half this quantity will be sufficient4 ,take1 say1 half a dozen carrots1 a small head of celery1 and one onion1 and throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order to preserve the colour4 ,then drain them off and place them in a saucepan1 with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them sticking and burning1 and place the saucepan on a very slack fire and let them stew so that the steam can escape1 but take care they don't burn or get brown4 ,now add a quart or two quarts of stock or water and boil them till they are tender4 ,then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 add a little butter1 pounded sugar1 pepper1 and salt4 ,the amount of liquid added must entirely depend upon the size of the carrots4 ,it is better to add too little than too much1 but the consistency of the soup should be like ordinary pea soup2 it does not do to have the soup watery4 ,if only the outside parts of carrots are used1 and this red part is thrown1 at starting1 into boiling water to preserve its colour1 this soup1 when made thick1 has a very bright and handsome appearance1 and is suitable for occasions when a little extra hospitality is exercised4 ,the inside part of the carrot1 if not used for making the soup1 need not be wasted1 but can be used for making stock1 or served in a dish of mixed vegetables on some other occasion4 ,,cauliflower ,,soup4--,take three or four small cauliflowers1 or two large ones1 soak them in salt and water1 and boil them in some water till they are nearly tender4 ,take them out and break the cauliflower so that you get two or three dozen little pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower1 somewhat resembling miniature bouquets4 ,put the rest of the cauliflower back into the water in which it was boiled1 with the exception of the green part of the leaves1 with an onion and some of the white part of a head of celery4 ,let all boil till the water has nearly boiled away4 ,now rub all this through a wire sieve1 onions1 celery1 cauliflower1 and all2 add to it sufficient boiling milk to make the whole of the consistency of pea soup4 ,add a little butter1 pepper1 and salt2 throw in those little pieces of cauliflower that had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup4 ,it is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the milk1 and also a very great improvement indeed to add a little boiling cream4 ,fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup4 ,,celery ,,soup4--,take half a dozen heads of celery1 or a smaller quantity if the heads of celery are very large2 throw away all the green part and cut up the celery into small pieces1 with one onion sliced1 and place them in a frying-pan1 or1 better still1 in an enamelled stew-pan1 and stew them in a little butter1 taking great care that the celery does not turn colour4 ,now add sufficient water or stock1 and let it all boil till the celery becomes quite tender4 ,let it boil till it becomes a pulp1 and then rub the whole through a wire sieve4 ,next boil separately from one to two quarts of milk according to the quantity of celery pulp1 and boil a couple of bay-leaves in the milk4 ,as soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp1 flavour the soup with pepper and salt2 serve fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,it is needless to say that all these white soups are greatly improved both in appearance and flavour by the addition of a little cream4 ,,cheese ,,soup4--,light-coloured and dry cheese is necessary for this somewhat peculiar soup1 but the best cheese of all is1 undoubtedly1 ,gruyere4 ,grate half a pound of cheese and spread a layer of this at the bottom of the soup-tureen4 ,cover this layer of cheese with some very thin slices of stale crumb of bread4 ,then put another layer of cheese and another layer of bread till all the cheese is used up4 ,next take about two tablespoonfuls of brown roux1 melt this in a small saucepan1 and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion4 ,let the onion cook in the melted roux over the fire1 and then add a quart of water1 and stir it all up till it boils1 adding pepper and salt and a few drops of ,parisian essence 7burnt sugar7 to give it a dark brown colour4 ,now pour the boiling soup over the contents of the soup-tureen1 and let it stand a few minutes so that the bread has time to soak1 and serve4 ,,cherry ,,soup4--,like most soups that are either sweet or sour1 this is a ,german recipe4 ,put a piece of butter1 the size of a large egg1 into a saucepan4 ,let it melt1 then mix it with a tablespoonful of flour1 and stir smoothly until it is lightly browned4 ,add gradually two pints of water1 a pound of black cherries1 picked and washed1 and a few cloves4 ,let these boil until the fruit is quite tender1 then press the whole through a sieve4 ,after straining1 add a little port1 if wine is allowed--but the soup will be very nice without this addition--half a teaspoonful of the kernels1 blanched and bruised1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 and a few whole cherries4 ,let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender1 and pour all into a tureen over toasted sippets1 sponge-cakes1 or macaroons4 ,,chestnut ,,soup1 ,,or ,,puree ,,of ,,chestnuts4--,take four dozen chestnuts and peel them4 ,this will be a very long process if we attempt to take off the skins while they are raw2 but in order to save time and trouble1 place the chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of butter4 ,place them on a slack fire and occasionally give them a stir4 ,heat them gradually till the husks come off without any difficulty4 ,having removed all the husks1 add sufficient stock or water to the chestnuts1 and let them boil gently till they are tender4 ,then pound them in a mortar and rub them through a wire sieve4 ,add a very little brown roux1 if the soup is to be brown1 and a few drops of ,parisian essence 7burnt sugar71 or a little white roux and a little cream if the soup is to be white4 ,add also a little pepper and salt1 sufficient butter to make the puree taste soft1 and a little powdered sugar4 ,fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup4 ,,cottage ,,soup4--,fry two onions1 a carrot and a turnip1 and a small head of celery cut up into small pieces1 in a frying-pan1 with a little butter1 till they are lightly browned4 ,then put them in a saucepan1 with about two quarts of water and a tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs4 ,let this boil till the vegetables are quite tender1 and then thicken the soup with two ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley4 ,this must be mixed with cold water and made quite smooth before it is added to the soup4 ,wash a quarter of a pound of rice1 and boil this in the soup1 and when the rice is quite tender the soup can be served4 ,some persons add a little sugar1 and dried powdered mint can be handed round with the soup1 like pea soup4 ,,clear ,,soup4--,make a very strong stock by cutting up onion1 celery1 carrot1 and a little turnip1 and boiling them in some water4 ,they should boil for two or three hours4 ,add also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every quart1 and colour the stock with a few drops of ,parisian essence4 ,strain it off1 and1 if it is not bright1 clear it with some white of egg in the ordinary way4 ,take only sufficient corn-flour to make the soup less thin or watery1 but do not make it thick4 ,a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added to every quart4 ,,cocoanut ,,soup4--,break open a good-sized cocoanut and grate sufficient of the white part till it weighs half a pound4 ,boil this in some stock1 and after it has boiled for about an hour strain it off4 ,only a small quantity of stock must be used1 and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed1 so as to extract all the goodness4 ,add a little pepper and salt1 and about half a grated nutmeg4 ,next boil separately three pints of milk1 and add this to the strained soup4 ,thicken the soup with some ground rice1 and serve4 ,of course1 a little cream would be a great improvement4 ,serve with toasted or fried bread4 ,,endive ,,soup1 ,,or ,,puree4--,take half a dozen endives that are white in the centre1 and wash them very thoroughly in salt and water1 as they are apt to contain insects4 ,next throw4 them into boiling water1 and let them boil for a quarter of an hour4 ,then take them out and throw them into cold water4 ,next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a cloth so as to extract all the moisture4 ,then cut off the root of each endive1 chop up all the white leaves1 and place them in a stew-pan with about two ounces of butter4 ,add half a grated nutmeg1 a brimming teaspoonful of powdered white sugar1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,stir them over the fire with a wooden spoon1 and take care they don't burn or turn colour4 ,next add sufficient milk to moisten them1 and let them simmer gently till they are tender2 then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 add a little piece of butter1 and serve with fried or toasted bread4 ,,fruit ,,soup4--,fruit soup can be made from rhubarb1 vegetable marrow1 cucumber1 gourd1 or pumpkin4 ,they may be all mixed with a little cream1 milk1 or butter1 and form a nice dish that is both healthful and delicate4 ,,green ,,pea ,,soup4--7,see ,,pea47 ,,green ,,pea ,,soup1 ,,dried4--7,see ,,pea47 ,,hare ,,soup 7,,imitation74--,take one large carrot1 a small head of celery1 one good-sized onion1 and half a small turnip1 and boil these in a quart of water till they are tender4 ,rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and thicken the soup with some brown roux till it is as thick as good cream4 ,next add a brimming saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs4 ,these herbs are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of ,herbaceous ,mixture4 ,flavour the soup with cayenne pepper1 a glass of port wine 7port wine dregs will do71 dissolve in it a small dessertspoonful of red-currant jelly1 and add the juice of half a lemon4 ,n4,b4--,aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in cooking4 ,it is cheaper to buy them ready made1 under the name of ,herbaceous ,mixture4 ,they can1 however1 be made at home as follows3--,take two ounces of white peppercorns1 two ounces of cloves1 one ounce of marjoram1 one ounce of sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme1 one ounce of powdered nutmeg1 one ounce of powdered mace1 and half an ounce of dried bay-leaves4 ,the herbs must be wrapped up in paper 7one or two little paper bags1 one inside the other1 is best71 and dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle4 ,they must then be pounded in a mortar1 and mixed with the spices1 and the whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a stoppered bottle for use4 ,,hotch-,,potch4--,cut up some celery1 onion1 carrot1 turnip1 and leeks into small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 very gently1 taking care that they do not in the least degree turn colour4 ,previous to this1 wash and boil about a quarter of a pound of pearl barley for four or five hours4 ,when the barley is tender1 or nearly tender1 add the contents of the frying-pan4 ,let it all boil till the vegetables are tender1 and about half an hour before the soup is sent to table throw in1 while the soup is boiling1 half a pint of fresh green peas--those known as marrowfats are best1--and about five minutes before sending the soup to table throw in a spoonful 7in the proportion of a dessertspoonful to every quart7 of chopped1 blanched parsley--i4e41 parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it is chopped4 ,colour the soup green with a little spinach extract 7vegetable colouring sold in bottles by all grocers74 ,the thinness of the soup can be removed by the addition of a small quantity of white roux4 ,,jardiniere ,,soup4--,cut up into thin strips some carrot1 turnip and celery1 add a dozen or more small button onions1 similar to those used for pickling1 and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine1 as well as a few fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small string4 ,simmer these gently in some clear soup 7see ,,clear ,,soup7 till tender2 add a lump of sugar1 and serve4 ,n4,b4--,the tarragon should not be thrown in till the last minute4 ,,julienne ,,soup4--,this soup is exactly similar to the previous one1 the only exception being that all the vegetables are first stewed very gently1 till they are tender1 in a little butter4 ,care should be taken that the vegetables do not turn colour4 ,,leek ,,soup4--,take half a dozen or more fine large leeks1 and after trimming off the green part1 throw them into boiling water for five minutes1 then drain them off and dry them4 ,cut them into pieces about half an inch long1 and stew them gently in a little butter till they are tender4 ,add three pints of milk1 and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk1 flavour with pepper and salt1 and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg4 ,thicken the soup with a little white roux and take the crust of a ,french roll4 ,cut this up into small pieces or rings4 ,the rings can be made by simply scooping out the crumb1 and cutting the roll across4 ,when the leeks have boiled in the milk till they are quite tender1 pour the soup over the crusts placed at the bottom of the soup-tureen4 ,some cooks add blanched parsley4 ,of course1 cream would be a great improvement4 ,,lentil ,,soup4--,take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and put them to soak in cold water overnight4 ,in the morning throw away any floating on the top4 ,drain the lentils and put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some stock or water1 and add two onions1 two carrots1 a turnip1 a bunch of parsley1 a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery4 ,if you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery seed4 ,you can also add a crust of stale bread4 ,let the whole boil1 and it will be found that occasionally a dark film will rise to the surface4 ,this must be skimmed off4 ,the soup must boil for about four hours1 or at any rate till the lentils are thoroughly soft4 ,then strain the soup through a wire sieve1 and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve with the soup4 ,this requires both time and patience4 ,after the whole has been rubbed through the sieve the soup must be boiled up1 and if made from green lentils it can be coloured green with some spinach extract--7vegetable colouring1 sold in bottles74 ,if made from ,egyptian 7red7 lentils1 the soup can be coloured with a few drops of ,parisian essence 7burnt sugar74 ,in warming up this soup1 after the lentils have been rubbed through a sieve1 it should be borne in mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle1 and consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent it burning4 ,in serving the soup at table1 the contents of the soup-tureen should be stirred with the soup-ladle before each help4 ,,lentil ,,puree ,a ,,la ,,soubise4--,this is really lentil soup1 made as above1 rather thick1 to which has been added a puree of onions1 made as follows3--,slice up1 say four large onions1 and fry them brown in a little butter1 then boil them in some of the broth of the soup till they are tender4 ,rub them through a wire sieve and add them to the soup4 ,,macaroni ,,soup 7,,clear74--,take some macaroni and break it up into pieces about two inches long4 ,boil them till they are tender in some salted water1 drain them off and add them to some clear soup4 7,see ,,clear ,,soup47 ,,macaroni ,,soup 7,,thick74--,take an onion1 carrot1 a small head of celery and a very small quantity of turnip2 cut them up and boil them in a very small quantity of water for about an hour4 ,then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 add a quart or more of boiling milk1 throw in the macaroni1 after breaking it up into pieces two inches long1 and let the macaroni simmer in this till it is perfectly tender4 ,the soup should be thickened with a very little white roux1 a bay-leaf can be boiled in the soup2 a small quantity of cream is a great improvement4 ,fried or toasted bread should be served with it4 ,,milk ,,soup4--,milk soup1 as it is sometimes called in ,germany1 very much resembles ,english custard4 ,it is made by putting a quart of milk on the fire and thickening it with two yolks of eggs and a little flour1 and sweetening it with sugar4 ,the soup is flavoured with either vanilla1 lemon1 laurel leaves1 pounded almonds1 cinnamon1 chocolate1 c4 ,as a soup1 however1 it is not suited to the ,english palate4 ,,mock ,,turtle1 ,,imitation4--,take an onion1 carrot1 small head of celery1 and some turnip1 and boil them till they are tender in some stock4 ,the water in which some rice has been boiled is very well suited for the purpose4 ,add also to every quart a brimming tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs4 ,rub the whole through a wire sieve1 thicken it with brown roux till it is as thick as cream2 add a few drops of ,parisian essence--7sold in bottles by all grocers7--to give it a dark colour4 ,add a wineglassful of sherry or ,madeira1 or1 if the use of wine be objected to1 the juice of a hard lemon4 ,flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper1 and serve some egg forcemeat balls in it1 about the size of small marbles4 ,,mulligatawny ,,soup4--,take four large onions1 cut them up and fry them brown1 with a little butter1 in a frying-pan1 with a carrot cut up into small pieces2 add to this a quart of stock or water1 and boil till the vegetables and onions are tender2 then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a brimming teaspoonful of ,captain ,white's ,curry ,paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder1 previously mixed smooth in a little cold water2 thicken the soup with a little brown roux4 ,some persons would consider this soup too hot2 if so1 less curry powder can be used or more water added4 ,if you have no curry paste1 cut up a sour apple and add it to the vegetables in the frying-pan4 ,if you have no sour apples1 a few green gooseberries are a very good substitute4 ,boiled rice should be served on a separate dish with this soup1 and should not be boiled in the soup at starting4 ,,onion ,,soup4--,cut up half a dozen onions and throw them for a few minutes into boiling water4 ,this takes off the rankness4 ,drain off the onions1 and chop them up and boil them till they are tender in some milk that has been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of savoury herbs4 ,take a small quantity of celery1 carrot and turnip1 or carrot and turnip and a little bruised celery seed1 and boil till they are tender in a very little water2 rub through a wire sieve1 and add the pulp to the soup4 ,the soup can be thickened with white roux1 ground rice1 or one or two eggs beaten up4 ,the soup must be added to the eggs gradually or they will curdle4 ,,onion ,,soup1 ,,brown4--,take an onion1 carrot1 celery1 and turnip1 and let them boil till quite tender in some water or stock4 ,in the meantime slice up half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a little butter1 in a frying-pan1 taking care that the onions are browned and not burnt black2 add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and stock1 and after it has boiled some time1 till the onions are tender1 rub the whole through a wire sieve1 thicken with a little brown roux1 adding1 of course1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,,ox-,,tail ,,soup1 ,,imitation4--,slice off the outside red part of two or three large carrots1 and cut them up into small dice not bigger than a quarter of an inch square4 ,cut up also into similar size a young turnip1 and the white1 hard part of a head of celery4 ,fry these very gently in a little butter1 taking care that the vegetables do not turn colour4 ,make some soup exactly in every respect similar to that described in ,imitation ,mock ,turtle4 ,throw in these fried vegetables1 and let the soup simmer gently by the side of the fire1 in order for it to throw up its butter1 which should be skimmed off4 ,in flavouring the soup1 add only half the quantity of wine or lemon juice that you would use were you making ,mock ,turtle4 ,,palestine ,,soup4--7,see ,,artichoke ,,soup47 ,,parsnip ,,soup4--,prepare half a dozen parsnips1 and boil them with an onion and half a head of celery in some stock till they are quite tender4 ,then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 boil it up again1 and serve4 ,sufficient parsnips must be boiled to make the soup as thick as pea soup1 so the quantity of stock must be regulated accordingly4 ,this soup is generally rather sweet1 owing to the parsnips1 and an extra quantity of salt must be added in consequence1 as well as pepper4 ,in ,belgium and ,germany this sweetness is corrected by the addition of vinegar4 ,this1 of course1 is a matter of taste4 ,,pear ,,soup4--,pare1 core1 and slice six or eight large pears4 ,put them into a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices1 half a dozen cloves1 and three pints of water4 ,let them simmer until they are quite tender1 then pass them through a coarse sieve1 and return the puree to the saucepan1 with two ounces of sugar1 the strained juice of a fresh lemon1 and half a tumblerful of light wine4 ,let the soup boil five or ten minutes1 when it will be ready for serving4 ,send some sponge-cake to table with this dish4 ,,pea ,,soup1 ,,from ,,split ,,dried ,,peas4--,take a pint of split peas and put them in soak overnight in some cold water1 and throw away those that float1 as this shows that there is a hole in them which would be mildewy4 ,take two onions1 a carrot1 a small head of celery1 and boil them with the peas in from three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender4 ,this will be from four to five hours4 ,when the peas are old and stale even longer time should be allowed4 ,then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 put the soup back into the saucepan1 and stir it while you make it hot or it will burn4 ,in ordinary cookery1 pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy stock1 more especially the water in which pickled pork has been boiled4 ,in the present instance we have no kind of fat to counteract the natural dryness of the pea-flour4 ,we must therefore add1 before sending to table1 two or three ounces of butter4 ,it will be found best to dissolve the butter in the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up1 as it is then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan and burn4 ,fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup separately1 as well as dried and powdered mint4 ,the general mistake people make is1 they do not have sufficient mint4 ,,pea ,,soup1 ,,from ,,dried ,,green ,,peas4--,proceed as in the above recipe in every respect1 substituting dried green peas for ordinary yellow split peas4 ,colour the soup green by adding a large handful of spinach before it is rubbed through the wire sieve1 or add a small quantity of spinach extract 7vegetable colouring sold by grocers in bottles72 dried mint and fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup1 as with the other4 ,,pea ,,soup1 ,,green 7,,fresh74--,take half a peck of young peas1 shell them1 and throw the peas into cold water4 ,put all the shells into a quart or more of stock or water4 ,put in also a handful of spinach if possible1 a few sprigs of parsley1 a dozen fresh mint-leaves and half a dozen small1 fresh1 green onions4 ,boil these for an hour1 or rather more1 and then rub the whole through a wire sieve4 ,you cannot rub all the shells through2 but you will be able to rub a great part through1 that which is left in the sieve being only strings4 ,now put on the soup to boil again1 and as soon as it boils throw in the peas2 as soon as these are tender--about twenty minutes--the soup is finished and can be sent to table4 ,if the soup is thin1 a little white roux can be added to thicken it2 if of a bad colour1 or if you could not get any spinach1 add some spinach extract 7vegetable colouring1 sold by all grocers71 only take care not to add too much1 and make the soup look like green paint4 ,,potato ,,soup4--,potato soup is a very good method of using up the remains of cold boiled potatoes4 ,slice up a large onion and fry it1 without letting it turn colour1 with a little butter4 ,add a little water or stock to the frying-pan1 and let the onion boil till it is tender4 ,boil a quart or more of milk separately with a couple of bay-leaves2 rub the onion with the cold potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk4 ,you can moisten the potatoes in the sieve with the milk4 ,when you have rubbed enough to make the soup thick enough1 let it boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful of thyme and a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley4 ,this soup should be rather thicker than most thick soups4 ,when new potatoes first come into season1 and especially when you have new potatoes from your own garden1 it will often be found that mixed with the ordinary ones there are many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble1 and which are too small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of new potatoes4 ,reserve all these little dwarf potatoes1 wash them1 and throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water1 drain them off and throw them into the potato soup whole4 ,of course they must boil in the soup till they are tender4 ,a little cream is a great improvement to the soup1 and dried mint can be served with it1 but is not absolutely necessary4 ,,pumpkin ,,soup4--,take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pumpkin1 pare it1 remove the seeds1 and cut the pumpkin into thin slices4 ,put these into a stew-pan1 with as much water or milk as will cover them1 and boil gently until they are reduced to a pulp4 ,rub this through a fine sieve1 mix with it a little salt1 and a piece of butter the size of an egg1 and stir it over the fire until it boils4 ,thin it with some boiling milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind1 cinnamon1 or orange-flower water4 ,it should be of the consistency of thick cream4 ,put toasted bread1 cut into the size of dice1 at the bottom of the soup-tureen4 ,moisten the bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor1 let them soak a little while1 then pour the rest of the soup over them1 and serve very hot4 ,or whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen1 and pour the soup in over them at the last moment4 ,the liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs4 ,,rhubarb ,,soup4--,this is a sweet soup1 and is simply juice from stewed rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel and added either to cream or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a little white wine4 ,it is rarely met with in this country4 ,,rice ,,soup4--,take a quarter of a pound of rice1 and wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured4 ,take an onion1 the white part of a head of celery1 and a turnip1 and cut them up and fry them in a little butter4 ,add a quart of stock1 or water1 and boil these vegetables until they are tender1 and then rub them through a wire sieve4 ,boil the rice in this soup till it is tender1 flavour with pepper and salt1 add a little milk boiled separately1 and serve grated ,parmesan cheese with the soup4 ,,rice ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,royale4--,take half a pound of rice and wash it thoroughly in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured4 ,boil this rice in some stock that has been strongly flavoured with onion1 carrot and celery1 and strained off4 ,when the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve1 then add some boiling milk1 in which two or three bay-leaves have been boiled1 and half a pint of cream1 till the soup is a proper consistency4 ,serve some egg force-meat balls with the soup4 ,,sorrel ,,soup4--,take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly4 ,like spinach1 it requires a great deal of cleansing4 ,drain it off and place the sorrel in a stew-pan1 and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon4 ,when it has dissolved and boiled for two or three minutes1 let it drain on a sieve till the water has run off4 ,next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little butter1 but do not brown the onion4 ,add a tablespoonful of flour to every two ounces of butter used1 also a teaspoonful of sugar1 a little grated nutmeg1 also a little pepper and salt2 add the sorrel to this1 with a small quantity of stock or water1 then rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and serve4 ,in some parts of the ,continent vinegar is added1 but it is not adapted to ,english taste4 ,,sago ,,soup4--,take two ounces of sage1 and having washed it very thoroughly1 put it on to boil in a quart of stock strongly flavoured with onion1 celery1 and carrot1 but which has been strained off4 ,the sage must boil until it becomes quite transparent and tender4 ,flavour the soup with a little pepper and salt1 a quarter of a nutmeg1 grated1 about half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard lemon4 ,,sea-,,kale ,,soup4--,this makes a very delicious soup1 but it is somewhat rare4 ,take a bundle of sea-kale1 the whiter the better4 ,threw it into boiling water1 and let it boil for a few minutes1 then take it out and drain it2 cut it up into small pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces of butter1 add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg2 stir it up until the butter is thoroughly melted1 but do not let it turn colour in the slightest degree4 ,add some milk1 and let it simmer very gently for about half an hour4 ,rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and add a small quantity of cream4 ,serve with toasted or fried bread4 ,,scotch ,,broth4--,take two or three ounces of pearl barley1 wash it1 and threw it into boiling water1 and let it boil for five or ten minutes4 ,then drain it off and threw away the water4 ,this is the only way to get pearl barley perfectly clean4 ,then put on the barley in some stock or water1 and let it boil for four hours1 till it is tender4 ,then add to it every kind of vegetable that is in season1 such as onion1 celery1 carrot1 turnip1 peas1 ,french beans1 cut up into small pieces1 hearts of lettuces cut up4 ,flavour with pepper and salt and serve altogether4 ,if possible add leeks to this soup instead of onion1 and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup4 ,a pinch of thyme can also be added4 ,,spinach ,,soup4--,wash some young1 freshly gathered spinach1 cut it up with a lettuce1 and1 if possible1 a few leaves of sorrel1 and throw them into boiling water4 ,let them boil for five minutes1 drain them off1 and throw them into cold water in order to keep their colour4 ,next take them out of the water and squeeze all the moisture from them2 then melt two ounces of butter in a stew-pan1 and add two tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,when this is thoroughly mixed together1 and begins to frizzle1 add the spinach1 lettuce1 c41 and stir them round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed together4 ,then add sufficient water or vegetable stock to moisten the vegetables 7add also a pinch of thyme71 and let it boil4 ,when it has boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of milk that has been boiled separately1 flavour with pepper and salt1 and serve4 ,,tapioca ,,soup4--,clear tapioca soup is made by thickening some ordinary clear soup 7see ,,clear ,,soup7 with tapioca1 allowing about two ounces of tapioca to every quart4 ,the tapioca should be put into the soup when it is cold1 and it is then far less likely to get lumpy4 ,tapioca can also be boiled in a little strongly flavoured stock that has not been coloured1 and then add some boiling milk4 ,tapioca should be allowed to simmer for an hour and a half4 ,of course1 a little cream is a great improvement when the soup is made with milk4 ,,tomato ,,soup4--,this is a very delicate soup1 and the endeavour should be to try and retain the flavour of the tomato4 ,slice up an onion1 or better still two shallots1 and fry them in a little butter1 to which can be added a broken-up1 dried bay-leaf1 a saltspoonful of thyme1 and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg1 ,fry these in a little batter till the onion begins to turn colour1 and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes from which the pips have been squeezed4 ,moisten with a very little stock or water1 and let them stew till they are tender1 then rub the whole through a wire sieve4 ,the consistency should be that of pea soup4 ,add a little butter to soften the soup71 and flavour with pepper and salt4 ,,turnip ,,soup4--,cut up some young turnips into small pieces1 throw them into boiling water1 let them boil for a few minutes1 take them out and strain them1 and put them into a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter2 add a little salt and sugar4 ,let them stew in the butter 7taking great care that they don't turn colour7 till they become soft1 then add sufficient boiling milk to moisten them1 so that when rubbed through a wire sieve the soup will be of the consistency of pea soup4 ,serve fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,soup4--,take a large vegetable marrow1 peel it1 cut it open1 remove all the pips1 and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter4 ,add a brimming teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 a little grated nutmeg1 and pepper and salt4 ,keep turning the pieces of vegetable marrow over in the butter1 taking care that they do not at all turn colour4 ,after frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes1 add some boiling milk1 and let the whole simmer gently till it can be rubbed through a wire sieve4 ,care must be taken not to get this soup too thin1 as the vegetable marrow itself contains a large quantity of water4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,,vegetable ,,soup4--7,see ,,jardiniere ,,soup47 ,,vermicelli ,,soup4--,take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli and break it up into small pieces1 throw it into boiling water1 and let it boil for five minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste1 then throw it immediately into about a quart of clear soup4 ,the vermicelli must be taken from the boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once4 ,if you were to boil the vermicelli1 strain it off1 and put it by to add to the soup1 you would find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt4 ,,vermicelli ,,soup1 ,,white4--,the vermicelli must be thrown into white soup instead of clear soup4 7,see ,,white ,,soup47 ,,white ,,soup4--,just as in ordinary white soup the secret of success is to have some strongly reduced stock1 so in vegetarian white soup it is essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid strongly impregnated with the flavour of vegetables4 ,for this purpose1 place an onion1 the white part of a head of celery1 and a slice of turnip in a stew-pan with a little butter1 and fry them till they are tender without becoming brown4 ,now add sufficient water to enable you to boil them1 and let the water boil away till very little is left4 ,now rub this through a wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been boiled4 ,thicken the soup with a little white roux1 add a suspicion of nutmeg1 and also1 if possible1 a little cream4 ,flavour with pepper and salt4 ,serve fried or toasted bread with the soup4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,sauces4 ,,sauce ,,allemande4--,take a pint of butter sauce--7see ,,butter ,,sauce7--and add to it four yolks of eggs4 ,in order to do this you must beat up the yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter sauce gradually1 otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce will be spoilt4 ,in fact1 it must be treated exactly like custard1 and in warming up the sauce it is often a good plan1 if you have no bain-marie1 to put the sauce in a jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,the sauce should be flavoured with a little essence of mushroom if possible4 ,essence of mushroom can be made from the trimmings of mushrooms1 but mushroom ketchup must not be used on account of the colour4 ,essence of mushroom can be made by placing the trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan1 stewing them gently1 and extracting the flavour4 ,the large black mushrooms1 however1 are not suited4 ,in addition to this essence of mushroom1 a little lemon juice--allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint1 should be added to the sauce1 as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg1 a pint of sauce requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg4 ,a little cream is a great improvement to this sauce1 but is not absolutely necessary4 ,the sauce should be perfectly smooth4 ,should it therefore contain any lumps1 which is not unfrequently the case in butter sauce1 pass the sauce through a sieve with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a bain-marie1 or warm it up in a jug as directed4 ,,almond ,,sauce4--,this is suitable for puddings4 ,the simplest way of making it is to make1 say half a pint of butter sauce1 or1 cheaper1 thicken half a pint of milk with a little corn-flour1 sweeten it with white sugar1 and then add a few drops of essence of almonds4 ,about a dozen drops will be sufficient if the essence is strong1 but essence of almonds varies greatly in strength4 ,the sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal4 ,,almond ,,sauce 7,,clear74--,thicken half a pint of water with a little corn-flour1 sweeten it with white sugar1 add a dozen drops of essence of almonds and a few drops of cochineal to colour it pink4 ,the sauce is very suitable to pour over custard puddings made in a basin or cup and turned out on to a dish4 ,it is also very cheap4 ,,apple ,,sauce4--,peel say a dozen apples2 cut them into quarters2 and be very careful in removing all the core1 as many a child is choked through carelessness in this respect4 ,stew the apples in a little water till they become a pulp1 placing with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen strips of the yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a fresh lemon of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail2 sweeten with brown sugar1 that known as ,porto ,rico being the most economical4 ,add a small piece of butter before serving4 ,,arrowroot ,,sauce4--,thicken half a pint of water with about a dessertspoonful of arrowroot and sweeten it with white sugar4 ,the sauce can be flavoured by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon1 or with a few drops of essence of vanilla1 or with the addition of a little sherry or spirit1 the best spirit being rum4 ,this sauce can1 of course1 be coloured pink with cochineal4 ,,artichoke ,,sauce4--,proceed exactly as if you were making artichoke soup1 only make the puree thicker by using less liquid4 ,a simple artichoke sauce can be made by boiling down a few ,jerusalem artichokes to a pulp1 rubbing them through a wire sieve1 and flavouring with pepper and salt4 ,,asparagus ,,sauce4--,boil a bundle of asparagus and rub all the green1 tender part through a wire sieve1 till it is a thick pulp1 flavour with a little pepper and salt1 add a small piece of butter1 and a little spinach extract 7vegetable colouring sold in bottles7 in order to give it a good colour4 ,,bread ,,sauce4--,take some dry crumb of bread1 and rub through a wire sieve4 ,the simplest plan is to turn the wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of paper4 ,the bread must be stale1 and stale pieces can be put by for this purpose4 ,next take1 say1 a pint of milk1 and let it boil2 then throw in the bread-crumbs and let them boil in the milk4 ,this is the secret of good bread sauce4 ,add a dozen peppercorns1 and place a whole onion in the saucepan containing the bread and milk1 and place the saucepan beside the fire in order to allow the bread-crumbs to swell4 ,it will be found that though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky1 yet after a time it becomes thick4 ,take out the onion1 add a little piece of butter1 stir it up1 and serve4 ,a little cream is a great improvement1 but is not absolutely necessary4 ,this sauce1 though very simple1 requires care3 ,many persons will probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable either to the palate or the eye4 ,,butter ,,sauce4--,this is the most important of all the sauces with which we have to deal4 ,the great mistake made by the vast majority of women cooks is that they will use milk4 ,they thicken a pint of milk with a little butter and flour1 and then call it melted butter1 and1 as a rule1 send to table enough for twenty persons when only two or three are dining4 ,as butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables1 we would call the attention of vegetarians to the fact that1 as a rule1 ordinary cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with the meat4 ,when therefore vegetables are served separately1 and are intended to be eaten with bread as a course by themselves1 some alteration must be made in the method of serving them4 ,again1 vegetarians should bear in mind that1 except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy1 a certain amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity1 should the meal be wished to be both wholesome and nourishing4 ,francatelli1 who was chef-de-cuisine to the ,earl of ,chesterfield1 and was also chief cook to the ,queen and chef at the ,reform ,club1 and afterwards manager of the ,freemasons' ,tavern1 in writing on this subject observes3--,butter sauce1 or1 as it is more absurdly called1 melted butter1 is the foundation of the whole of the following sauces1 and requires very great care in its preparation4 ,though simple1 it is nevertheless a very useful and agreeable sauce when properly made4 ,so far from this being usually the case1 it is too generally left to assistants to prepare1 as an insignificant matter2 the result is therefore seldom satisfactory4 ,when a large quantity of butter sauce is required1 put four ounces of fresh butter into a middle-sized stew-pan1 with some grated nutmeg and minionette pepper2 to these add four ounces of sifted flour1 knead the whole well together1 and moisten with a pint of cold spring water2 stir the sauce on the fire till it boils1 and after having kept it gently boiling for twenty minutes 7observing that it be not thicker than the consistency of common white sauce71 proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter1 taking care to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation4 ,should it appear to turn oily1 add now and then a spoonful of cold spring water2 finish with the juice of half a lemon1 and salt to palate2 then pass the sauce through a tammy into a large bain-marie for use4 ,we have quoted the recipe of the late ,m4 ,francatelli in full1 as we believe it is necessary to refer to some very great authority in order to knock out the prejudice from the minds of many who think that they not only can themselves cook1 but teach others1 but who are bound in the chains of prejudice and tradition which1 too often1 in the most simple recipes1 lead them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers4 ,real butter sauce can be made as follows1 on a small scale3--,take a claret-glass of water1 and about a small teaspoonful of flour mixed with rather more than the same quantity of butter1 and mix this in the water over the fire till it is of the consistency of very thin gruel4 ,if it is thicker than this1 add a little more water4 ,now take any quantity of butter1 and gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel1 adding say half an ounce at a time1 till the sauce becomes a rich oily compound4 ,after a time1 if you add too much butter1 the sauce will curdle and turn oily1 as described by ,francatelli4 ,of course1 in everyday life it is not necessary to have the butter sauce so rich1 still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a pint of milk1 or a pint of water1 with a little butter and flour1 and then call it butter sauce or melted butter4 ,suppose we have a large white cabbage1 like those met with in the ,west of ,england1 and we are going to make a meal off it in conjunction with plenty of bread4 ,suppose the cabbage is sufficiently large for six persons1 surely half a pound of butter is not an excessive quantity to use in making butter sauce for the purpose4 ,yet prejudice is such that if we use half a pound of butter for the butter sauce1 housekeepers consider it extravagant4 ,on the other hand1 if the butter were placed on the table1 and the six persons helped themselves1 and ate bread and butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound1 it would not be considered extravagant4 ,of course1 this is simply prejudice4 ,a simple way of making melted butter is as follows3--,take half a pint of cold water1 put it in a saucepan1 and add sufficient white roux1 or butter and flour mixed1 till it is of the consistency of thin gruel4 ,now gradually dissolve in this1 adding a little piece at a time1 as much butter as you can afford2 add a suspicion of nutmeg1 a little pepper and salt1 and a few drops of lemon-juice from a fresh lemon1 if you have one in use4 ,,butter1 ,,melted1 ,,or ,,oiled ,,butter4--,melted butter1 properly speaking1 is rarely met with in this country1 but is a common everyday sauce on the ,continent4 ,it is simply what it says4 ,a piece of butter is placed in a little sauce-boat and placed in the oven till the butter runs to oil1 and then sent to table with all kinds of fish with which in our present work we have nothing to do2 but it is also sent to table with all kinds of vegetables1 such as ,french artichokes1 c42 sometimes a spoonful of ,french capers is added to the oiled butter4 ,,butter1 ,,black1 ,,or ,,beurre ,,noir4--,take two ounces of butter1 and dissolve it in a frying-pan1 and let it frizzle till the butter turns a brown colour2 then add a tablespoonful of ,french vinegar1 a teaspoonful of chopped capers1 a teaspoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 and a teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the vinegar is removed by evaporation4 ,this is a very delicious sauce1 and can be served with ,jerusalem artichokes boiled whole1 fried eggs1 c4 ,,caper ,,sauce4--,make some butter sauce1 and to every half-pint of sauce add a dessertspoonful of chopped ,french capers4 ,if the sauce is liked sharp1 add some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers4 ,,carrot ,,sauce4--,proceed exactly as in carrot soup1 using less liquid4 ,,cauliflower ,,sauce4--,proceed exactly as in cauliflower soup1 using less liquid4 ,,celery ,,sauce4--,proceed exactly as in celery soup1 only using less liquid4 ,the thicker this sauce is the better4 ,,cherry ,,sauce4--,take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries1 and put them into a small stew-pan1 with a dessertspoonful of black currant jelly1 a small stick of cinnamon1 with half a dozen cloves1 and add rather less than half a pint of water1 and let the whole simmer gently for about ten minutes1 when you must take out the spices and send the rest to table4 ,n4,b4--,if wine is not objected to in cooking1 it is a very good plan to add claret instead of water4 ,,chestnut ,,sauce4--,proceed as in making chestnut soup1 using as little liquid as possible1 so as to make the sauce thick4 ,,cinnamon ,,sauce4--,the simplest way of making cinnamon sauce is to sweeten some butter sauce with some white sugar1 and then add a few drops of essence of cinnamon4 ,the sauce can be coloured pink with a little cochineal4 ,a little wine is an improvement4 ,the sauce can also be made by breaking up and boiling a stick of cinnamon in some water1 and then using the water to make some butter sauce4 ,,cocoanut ,,sauce4--,grate the white1 part of a cocoanut very finely1 and boil it till tender in a very small quantity of water2 add about an equal quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut2 mix in either the yolk of an egg or a tablespoonful of cream4 ,a little lemon juice is an improvement4 ,,cucumber ,,sauce4--,take two or three small cucumbers1 peel them1 slice them1 and place them in a dish with a little salt1 which has the effect of extracting the water4 ,now drain the pieces off and strain then in a cloth1 to extract as much moisture as possible4 ,put then in a frying-pan with a little butter2 fry them very gently1 till they begin to turn colour1 then nib them through a wire sieve2 moisten the pulp with a little butter sauce2 add a little pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste4 ,,currant ,,sauce 7,,red74--,put a couple of tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly into a small stew-pan1 with half a dozen cloves1 a small stick of cinnamon1 and the rind of an orange4 ,moisten with a little water1 or still better1 a little claret1 strain it off1 and add the juice of the orange4 ,,currant ,,sauce 7,,black74--,proceed exactly as in the above recipe1 substituting black currant jelly for red4 ,,curry ,,sauce4--,take six large onions1 peel them1 cut them up into small pieces1 and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces of butter4 ,as soon as the onions begin to change colour1 take a small carrot and cut it up into little piece2 and a sour apple4 ,when the onions1 etc41 are fried a nice brown1 add about a pint of vegetable stock or water and let the whole simmer till the vegetables are quite tender1 then add a tea-spoonful of ,captain ,white's curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder2 now rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and take care that all the vegetables go through4 ,it is rather troublesome1 but will repay you1 as good curry sauce cannot be made without4 ,the curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve4 ,should therefore the onions be small1 less water or stock had better be added4 ,curry sauce could be thickened with a little brown roux1 but it takes away from the flavour of the curry4 ,a few bay-leaves may be added to the sauce and served up whole in whatever is curried4 ,for instance1 if we have a dish of curried rice1 half a dozen or more bay-leaves could be added to the sauce and served up with the rice4 ,there are many varieties of curry4 ,in ,india fresh mangoes take the part of our sour apples4 ,some persons add grated cocoanut to curry1 and it is well worth a trial1 although on the ,p4 and ,o4 boats the ,indian curry-cook mixes the curry fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose4 ,in some parts of ,india it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the curry1 but this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering from the effects of brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of the vegetarian4 ,,dutch ,,sauce4--,this is very similar to ,allemande ,sauce4 ,take half a pint of good butter sauce1 make it thoroughly hot1 add two yolks of eggs1 taking care that they do not curdle1 a little pepper and salt1 a suspicion of nutmeg1 and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar4 ,some persons instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice1 say the half of a fresh lemon to this quantity1 and half a dozen fresh tarragon leaves1 blanched--that is1 dipped for a few seconds in boiling water--and then chopped very fine4 ,the tarragon vinegar is much the simplest1 as it is very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves unless one has a good garden or lives near ,covent ,garden ,market4 ,,dutch ,,sauce 7,,green74--,proceed exactly as above and colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach extract 7vegetable colouring1 sold in bottles by all grocers74 ,,egg ,,sauce4--,take half a dozen eggs1 put them in a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them4 ,put them on the fire and let them boil for ten minutes after the water boils4 ,take them out and put them into cold water and let them stand for ten minutes1 when the shells can be removed2 then cut up the six hard-boiled eggs into little pieces1 add sufficient butter sauce to moisten them1 make the whole hot1 and serve4 ,n4,b4--,inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs are bad when they are not1 owing to their often having a tinge of green colour round the outside of the yolk and to their emitting a peculiar smell when the shells are first removed while hot ,all eggs contain a small quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,,fennel ,,sauce4--,blanch and chop up sufficient fennel to colour half a pint of butter sauce a bright green1 add a little pepper1 salt1 and lemon juice1 and serve4 ,,german ,,sweet ,,sauce4--,take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries1 a small saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon1 and a few strips of lemon peel1 and put them in a small saucepan with about a quarter of a pint of water1 or still better1 claret1 if wine is allowed1 and let them simmer on the fire gently for about half an hour2 then rub the cherries through a wire sieve with the liquor--7of course1 the lemon peel and cloves will not rub through7--and add this to a quarter of a pound of stewed prunes4 ,this is a very popular sauce abroad4 ,,ginger ,,sauce4--,the simplest way of making ginger sauce is to sweeten half a pint of butter sauce and then add a few drops of essence of ginger4 ,a richer ginger sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of preserved ginger and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they are preserved1 rubbing this through a wire sieve1 adding about an equal quantity of butter sauce1 making the whole hot in a saucepan4 ,,gooseberry ,,sauce4--,pick and then stew some green gooseberries1 just moistening the stewpan with a little water to prevent them burning4 ,rub the whole through a hair sieve in order to avoid having any pips in the sauce4 ,sweeten with a little ,demerara sugar1 as ,porto ,rico would be too dark in colour4 ,colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach extract4 ,n4,b4--,it is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce1 which is distinct altogether from gooseberry fool4 ,in ,germany1 vinegar is added to this sauce and it is served with meat4 ,,horse-,,radish ,,sauce4--,horse-radish sauce is made1 properly speaking1 by mixing grated horse-radish with cream1 vinegar1 sugar1 made mustard1 and a little pepper and salt4 ,a very simple method of making this sauce is to substitute tinned ,swiss milk for the cream and sugar4 ,it is equally nice1 more economical1 and possesses this great advantage3 a few tins of ,swiss milk can always be kept in the store cupboard1 whereas there is considerable difficulty1 especially in all large towns1 in obtaining cream without giving twenty-four hours' notice1 and the result even then is not always satisfactory4 ,horse-radish sauce is very delicious1 and its thickness should be entirely dependent upon the amount of grated horse-radish4 ,sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in size that we will say1 grate sufficient to fill a teacup1 throw this into a sauce tureen1 mix a dessertspoonful of ,swiss milk with a tablespoonful of vinegar and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made mustard1 add this to the horse-radish1 and1 if necessary1 sufficient milk to make the whole of the consistency of bread sauce4 ,as the sauce is very hot1 as a rule it is best not to add any pepper1 which can be easily added afterwards by those who like it4 ,,indian ,,pickle ,,sauce4--,chop up two or three tablespoonfuls of ,indian pickles1 place them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pint of water1 and if the pickles are sour as well as hot1 let them simmer some little time so as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation4 ,then thicken the whole with some brown roux till the sauce is as thick as pea soup4 ,the vinegar should be got rid of as much as possible4 ,this is a very appetising dish with boiled rice and ,parmesan cheese4 ,,italian ,,sauce4--,this is an old-fashioned recipe taken from a book written in ,french1 and published more than fifty years ago4 ,put into a saucepan a little parsley1 a shallot1 some mushrooms and truffles1 chopped very finely1 with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut4 ,let all boil gently for half an hour1 add a spoonful of oil1 and serve4 ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,sauce4--,maitre d'hotel sauce is simply a lump of butter mixed with some chopped parsley1 a little pepper and salt1 and lemon juice4 ,hot sauce is often called ,maitre d'hotel when chopped blanched parsley and lemon juice is added to a little white sauce4 ,,mango ,,chutney ,,sauce4--,take a couple of tablespoonfuls of ,mango ,chutney1 moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of butter sauce1 rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and serve either hot or cold4 ,or the chutney can be simply chopped up fine and added to the butter sauce without rubbing through the wire sieve4 ,,mayonnaise ,,sauce4--,this is the most delicious of all cold sauces4 ,it is composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil1 flavoured with a dash of vinegar4 ,when made properly it should be of the consistency of butter in summer time4 ,many women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires the addition of cream4 ,mayonnaise sauce is made as follows3--,break an egg and separate the yolk from the white1 and place the yolk at the bottom of a large basin4 ,next take a bottle of oil1 which must be cool but bright2 if the oil is cloudy1 as it often is in cold weather1 you cannot make the sauce4 ,nor can you if the oil has been kept in a warm place4 ,now proceed to let the oil drop1 drop by drop1 on the yolk of egg1 and with a silver fork1 or still better1 a wooden one1 beat the yolk of egg and oil quickly together4 ,continue to drop the oil1 taking care that only a few drops drop at a time1 especially at starting1 and continue to beat the mixture lightly and quickly4 ,gradually the yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick1 first of all like custard4 ,when this is the case a little more oil may be added at a time1 but never more than a teaspoonful4 ,as more oil is added1 and the beating continues1 the sauce gets thicker and thicker1 till it is nearly as thick as butter in summer time4 ,when it arrives at this stage no more oil should be added4 ,a little tarragon vinegar may be added at the finish1 or a little lemon juice4 ,this makes the sauce whiter in colour4 ,one yolk of egg will take a teacupful of oil4 ,it is best to add pepper and salt when the salad is mixed4 ,mayonnaise sauce is by far the best sauce for lettuce salad4 ,it will keep a day1 but should be kept in a cool place1 and the basin should be covered over with a moist cloth4 ,,mayonnaise ,,sauce1 ,,green4--,make some mayonnaise sauce as above1 and colour it with some spinach colouring 7vegetable colouring1 sold in bottles by all grocers74 ,,mint ,,sauce4--,take plenty of fresh mint leaves1 as the secret of good mint sauce is to have plenty of mint4 ,chop up sufficient mint to fill a teacup1 put this at the bottom of a sauce tureen1 pour sufficient boiling water on the mint to thoroughly moisten it1 and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar1 which dissolves best when the water is hot4 ,press the mint with a tablespoon to extract the flavour1 let it stand till it is quite cold1 and then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar1 stir it up1 and the sauce is ready4 ,the quantity of vinegar added is purely a matter of taste1 but a teaspoonful of chopped mint floating in half a pint of vinegar is no more mint sauce than dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water would be soup in ordinary cookery4 ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 ,,white4--,mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or tinned mushrooms4 ,when made from fresh they must be small button mushrooms1 and not those that are black underneath4 ,they must be peeled1 cut small1 and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them turning colour1 or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and water4 ,they must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of butter till they are tender1 and then added to a little thickened milk1 or still better1 cream4 ,when made from tinned mushrooms1 simply chop up the mushrooms1 reserving the liquor1 then add a little cream and thicken with a little white roux4 ,a little pepper and salt should be added in both cases4 ,instead of using either milk or cream1 you can use a small quantity of sauce ,allemande4 ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 ,,brown4--,proceed exactly as above with regard to the mushrooms1 both fresh and tinned1 only instead of adding milk1 cream1 or ,allemande sauce1 add a little stock or water1 and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux4 ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 ,,puree4--,mushroom sauce1 both white and brown1 is sometimes served as a puree4 ,it is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through a wire sieve4 ,,mustard ,,sauce4--,make1 say1 half a pint of good butter sauce1 add to this a tablespoonful of ,french mustard and a tablespoonful of made ,english mustard4 ,stir this into the sauce1 make it hot1 and serve4 ,n4,b4--,french mustard is sold ready-made in jars1 and is flavoured with tarragon1 capers1 ravigotte1 c4 ,,onion ,,sauce4--,take half a dozen large onions1 peel them and boil them in a little salted water till they are tender4 ,then take them out and chop them up fine1 and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk4 ,thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour1 or white roux1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,a very nice mild onion sauce is made by using ,spanish onions4 ,,onion ,,sauce1 ,,brown4--,slice up half a dozen good-sized onions2 put them in a frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown1 but be careful not to burn them1 and should there be a few black pieces in the frying-pan1 remove them2 now chop up the onions1 not too finely1 and put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water1 let them simmer till they are tender1 and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux1 and flavour with pepper and salt4 ,,orange ,,cream ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4--,take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small quantity of butter sauce1 and add the juice of the orange1 strained4 ,now add a little cream1 or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately1 in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux4 ,rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very strong orange flavour indeed--far more than the juice of almost any number of oranges would produce1 so care must be taken not to overdo it4 ,this is what ,french cooks call zest of orange4 ,,parsley ,,sauce4--,blanch and chop up sufficient parsley to make a brimming tablespoonful when chopped4 ,add this to half a pint of butter sauce1 with a little pepper1 salt1 and lemon juice4 ,it is very important to blanch the parsley1 i4e41 throw it into a little boiling water before chopping4 ,,pine-,,apple ,,sauce4--,take a pine-apple1 peel it1 cut it up into little pieces on a dish1 taking care not to lose any of the juice1 place it in a saucepan with a very little water1 just sufficient to cover the pine-apple2 let it simmer gently until it is tender1 and then add sufficient white sugar to make the liquid almost a syrup2 a teaspoonful of corn-flour1 made smooth in a little cold water1 can be added2 but the sauce should be of the consistency of syrup1 and the corn-flour does away with the difficulty of making it too sickly4 ,the juice of half a lemon may be added1 and is1 perhaps1 an improvement4 ,,plum ,,sauce4--,when made from ripe plums1 take1 say1 a pound1 and place them in a stew-pan with a very little water and a quarter of a pound of sugar4 ,take out the stones and crack them4 ,throw the kernels into boiling water so that you can rub off the skin1 and add them to the sauce after you have rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve4 ,to make plum sauce from dried ,french plums proceed exactly as in making ,prune ,sauce4 7,see ,,prune ,,sauce47 ,,poivrade ,,sauce4--,take an onion1 a very small head of celery1 and a carrot1 and cut them into little pieces1 and put them into a frying-pan with a little butter1 a saltspoonful of thyme1 one or two dried bay-leaves1 and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs of parsley4 ,fry these till they turn a light-brown colour1 then add a little stock or water1 and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,let this boil in the frying-pan for about half an hour1 till the liquid is reduced in quantity4 ,thicken it with a little brown roux1 and rub it through a wire sieve1 make it hot1 and serve4 ,if wine is allowed1 the addition of a little sherry is a great improvement to this sauce4 ,,prune ,,sauce4--,take a quarter of a pound of prunes1 put them in a stew-pan with just sufficient water to cover them1 and let them stew4 ,put in one or two strips of lemon-peel to stew with them1 add a teaspoonful of brown sugar1 about sufficient powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,when the prunes are quite tender take out the strip of lemon-peel and stones1 rub the whole through a wire sieve1 and serve4 ,,radish ,,sauce4--,take a few bunches of radishes and grate them1 and mix this grated radish with a little oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 and salt4 ,you can colour the sauce red by adding a little beetroot1 and make the sauce hot by adding a little grated horse-radish4 ,this cold sauce is exceedingly nice with cheese4 ,these grated radishes are more digestible than radishes served whole4 ,,raspberry ,,sauce4--,this sauce is simply stewed raspberries rubbed through a wire sieve and sweetened4 ,some red-currant juice should be added to give it a colour4 ,it is very nice made hot and then added to one or two beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings1 such as boiled rice1 c4 ,,ratafia ,,sauce4--,add a few drops of essence of ratafia to some sweetened arrowroot or to some butter sauce4 ,the sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal4 ,,ravigotte ,,sauce4--,put a tablespoonful each of ,harvey's sauce1 tarragon vinegar1 and chilli vinegar into a small saucepan1 and let it boil till it is reduced to almost one-half in quantity1 in order to get rid of the acidity4 ,now add about half a pint of butter sauce1 and throw in a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley4 ,,robert ,,sauce4--,take a couple of onions1 cut them up into small pieces1 and fry them with about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan4 ,drain off the butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the frying-pan1 and let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour so as to get rid of the acidity of the vinegar4 ,now add a very little stock or water1 stir it tip1 and thicken the sauce with a little brown roux4 ,add a dessertspoonful of fresh mustard and a little pepper and salt4 ,,soubise ,,sauce4--,sauce ,soubise is simply white onion sauce1 rubbed through a wire sieve1 and a little cream added4 ,it is more delicate than ordinary onion sauce1 and is often served in ,france with roast pheasant4 ,it owes its name to a famous ,french general4 ,,sorrel ,,sauce4--,put about a quart of fresh green sorrel leaves 7after being thoroughly washed7 into an enamelled saucepan1 with a little fresh butter1 and let the sorrel stew till it is tender4 ,rub this through a wire sieve1 add a little powdered sugar and a little lemon juice2 a little cream may be added1 but is not absolutely essential4 ,,sweet ,,sauce4--,take half a pint of butter sauce1 and sweeten it with a little sugar4 ,it can be flavoured by rubbing a little sugar on the outside of a lemon1 or with vanilla1 essence of almonds1 or any kind of sweet essence4 ,a little wine1 brandy1 or1 still better1 rum1 is a great improvement4 ,some persons add cream4 ,,tarragon ,,sauce4--,blanch a dozen tarragon leaves1 chop them up1 and stew them in any kind of stock thickened with brown roux4 ,,tartar ,,sauce4--,take two or three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce1 and add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley1 as well as a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint1 chopped very fine1 and a brimming teaspoonful of ,french mustard4 ,mix the whole well together4 ,n4,b4--,a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great improvement were anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian cookery4 ,,tomato ,,sauce4--,the great secret of tomato sauce is to taste nothing but the tomato4 ,take a dozen ripe tomatoes1 cut off the stalks1 and squeeze out the pips1 and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter1 and let them stew till they are tender1 and then rub the whole through a wire sieve4 ,this1 in our opinion1 is the best tomato sauce that can be made1 the only seasoning being a little pepper and salt4 ,this wholesome and delicious sauce can1 however1 be spoilt in a variety of ways--by the addition of mace1 cloves1 shallots1 onions1 thyme1 c4 ,it can also be made very unwholesome by the addition of a quantity of vinegar4 ,,truffle ,,sauce4--,this sauce is very expensive if made from whole fresh truffles1 but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain some truffle chips or parings4 ,these must be stewed in a little stock1 thickened with brown roux1 and then rubbed through a wire sieve1 a little sherry being a great improvement if wine is allowed4 ,,vanilla ,,sauce4--,add some essence of vanilla to some sweetened butter sauce4 ,,white ,,sauce4--,white sauce is sometimes required for vegetables and sometimes for puddings4 ,in the former case some good-flavoured1 uncoloured stock must be thickened with white roux1 and then have sufficient cream added to it to make the sauce a pure white4 ,when white sauce is wanted for puddings1 sufficient butter sauce must be sweetened1 and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg or almond1 and then an equal quantity of cream added to it to make it a pure white4 ,white sauce should not have with it any strong predominant flavour4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,savoury ,,rice1 ,,macaroni1 ,,oatmeal1 c4 ,,rice4 ,probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much neglected form of food in ,england4 ,when we remember how small a quantity of rice weekly is found sufficient to keep alive millions and millions of our fellow-creatures in the ,east1 it seems to be a matter of regret that rice as an article of food is not more used by the thousands and thousands of our fellow creatures in the ,east--not in the ordinary acceptation of the term1 but ,east of ,temple ,bar4 ,rice is cheap1 nourishing1 easily cooked1 and equally easily digested1 yet that monster1 custom1 seems to step in and prevent the bulk of the poor availing themselves of this light and nourishing food solely for the reason that1 as their grandfathers and grandmothers did not eat rice before them1 they do not see any reason why they should1 like the ,irishman who objected to have his feet washed on the same ground4 ,of the different kinds of rice ,carolina is the best1 the largest1 and the most expensive4 ,patna rice is almost as good2 the grains are long1 small1 and white1 and it is the best rice for curry4 ,madras rice is the cheapest4 ,rice1 pure and simple1 is the food most suited for hot climates and where a natural indolence of disposition results in one's day's work of an ordinary ,englishman being divided among twenty people4 ,as we move towards more temperate zones it will be found the universal custom to qualify it by mixing it with some other substance2 thus1 though rice is largely eaten in ,italy1 it is almost invariably used in conjunction with ,parmesan cheese4 ,rice contains no flesh-forming properties whatever1 as it contains no nitrogen2 and with all due respect to vegetarians1 it will be found that as we recede from the ,equator and advance towards the ,poles our food must of necessity vary with the latitude1 and1 whereas we may start on a diet of rice1 we shall be forced1 sooner or later1 to depend upon a diet of pemmican1 or food of a similar nature4 ,,rice1 ,,to ,,boil4--,the best method of boiling rice is1 at any rate1 a much disputed point1 if not an open question4 ,there are as many ways almost of boiling rice as dressing a salad1 and each one thinks his own way the best4 ,we will mention a few of the most simple1 and will illustrate it by boiling a small quantity that can be contained in a teacup4 ,of course1 boiling rice is very much simplified if you want some rice-water as well as rice itself4 ,rice-water contains a great deal of nourishment1 a fact which is well illustrated by the well-known story of the black troops who served in ,india under ,clive1 who1 at the siege of ,arcot1 told ,clive1 when they were short of provisions1 that the water in which the rice was boiled would be sufficient for them1 while the more substantial grain could be preserved for the ,european troops4 ,take a teacupful of rice and wash the rice in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured4 ,now throw the rice into boiling water1 say a quart2 let the rice boil gently till it is tender1 strain off the rice and reserve the rice-water for other purposes4 ,the time rice will take to boil treated this way would be probably about twenty minutes1 but this time would vary slightly with the quality and size of the rice4 99 99 99 99 99 ,many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on board a ,p4 and ,o4 boat 7the ,mizapore72 he proceeded as follows3--,he boiled the rice for about ten minutes1 or perhaps a minute or two longer1 strained it off in a sieve1 and then washed the rice with cold water1 and then put the rice back in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell4 ,of course1 this rice was being boiled for curry1 and certainly the result was that each grain was beautifully separated from every other grain4 ,we do not think1 however1 that this method of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the ,p4 and ,o4 ,company4 ,of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat wasteful4 ,by far the most economical method of boiling rice is as follows2 and we would recommend it to all who are in the habit of practising economy on the grounds of either duty or necessity4 ,wash thoroughly1 as before1 a teacupful of rice and put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two breakfastcupfuls of water1 bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten minutes1 then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the rice soak and swell for about twenty minutes4 ,after a little time1 you can put a cloth on the top of the saucepan to absorb the steam1 similar to the way you treat potatoes after having strained off the water4 ,in boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways in which rice is served4 ,one is as a meal in itself1 the other as an accompaniment to some other kind of food4 ,it will be found in ,italy and ,turkey and in the ,east generally1 where rice forms1 so to speak1 the staff of life1 that it is not cooked so soft and tender as it is in ,england1 where it is generally served with something else4 ,in fact1 each grain of rice may be said to resemble an ,irish potato1 inasmuch as it has a heart in it4 ,in ,ireland potatoes1 as a rule1 are not cooked so much as they are in most parts of ,england4 ,probably the reason of this is1 in most cases1 that experience has taught people that there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state that ,english people would call under-done4 ,there is no doubt that the waste throughout the length and breadth of this prosperous land through over-cooking is something appalling4 ,another very good method of boiling rice is the ,american style4 ,take a good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid4 ,put a cloth over the saucepan1 after first pouring in1 say1 a pint of water2 push down the cloth1 keeping it tight1 so as to make a well1 but do not let the cloth reach the water2 wash the rice as before1 and put on the lid tight4 ,of course1 with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed4 ,now put the saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously4 ,by these means you steam the rice till it is tender and lose none of the nourishment4 ,we can always learn from ,america4 ,,risotto ,a ,,la ,,milannaise4--,take a teacupful of rice1 wash it thoroughly and dry it4 ,chop up a small onion and put it in the bottom of a small stew-pan and fry the onion to a light-brown colour4 ,now add the dry rice1 and stir this up with the onion and butter till the rice also is fried of a nice light-brown colour4 ,now add two breakfastcupfuls of stock or water and a pinch of powdered saffron1 about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece2 let the rice boil for ten or eleven minutes1 move the saucepan to the side of the fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has absorbed all the stock or water4 ,now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,flavour with a little pepper and salt1 and serve the whole very hot4 ,,rice ,,with ,,cabbage ,,and ,,cheese4--,wash some rice and let it soak in some hot water1 with a cabbage sliced up1 for about an hour2 then strain it off and put the rice and cabbage in a stew-pan with some butter1 a little pepper and salt1 and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg4 ,toss these about in the butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the fire1 but do not let them turn colour2 then add a small quantity of water or stock1 let it stew till it is tender1 and then serve it very hot with some grated cheese sprinkled over the top4 ,n4,b4--,the end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish4 ,,rice ,,with ,,cheese4--,wash some rice and then boil it for ten or eleven minutes in some milk1 and let it stand till it has soaked up all the milk4 ,the proportion generally is1 as we have said before1 a teacupful of rice to two breakfastcupfuls of milk2 but as we shall want the rice rather moist on the present occasion1 we must allow a little more milk4 ,now mix in some grated cheese and a little pepper and salt1 place the mixture in a pie-dish1 and cover the top with grated cheese1 and place the pie-dish in the oven and bake till the top is nicely browned1 and then serve4 ,some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the mixture4 ,some persons prefer it and some don't2 it is therefore best to serve some made mustard with the rice and cheese at table4 ,unless the mixture was fairly moist before it was put into the pie-dish1 it would dry up in the oven and become uneatable4 ,,rice1 ,,curried4--,boil a teacupful of well-washed rice in two breakfastcupfuls of water1 and let the rice absorb all the water2 put a cloth in the saucepan1 and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork till the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other4 ,now mix it up with some curry sauce1 make the whole hot1 and send it to table with a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with the rice4 ,only sufficient curry sauce should be added to moisten the rice--it must not be rice swimming in gravy2 or you can make a well in the middle of the boiled rice and pour the curry sauce into this4 ,,rice ,,borders 7,,casseroles74--,casseroles1 or rice borders1 form a very handsome dish4 ,it consists of a large border made of rice1 the outside of which can be ornamented and the centre of which can be filled with a macedoine 7i4e41 a mixture7 of fruit or vegetables4 ,as you are probably aware1 grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with copper labels1 on which the word is printed ,macedoine4 ,this tin contains a mixture of cut-up1 cooked vegetables4 ,these are very useful to have in the house1 as a nice dish can be served at a few moments' notice4 ,mixed fruits are also sold in bottles under the name of ,macedoine of ,fruits4 ,of course1 both vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home much cheaper from fresh fruit and vegetables1 but this requires time and forethought4 ,these mixtures are very much improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made rice border1 and as the border is eaten with the vegetables and fruit there is no want of economy in the recipe4 ,suppose we are going to make a rice border4 ,take a pound of rice and wash it carefully if we are going to fill it with fruit we must boil it in sweetened milk1 but if we are going to fill it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable stock or water4 ,add1 as the case may be1 sufficient liquid to boil the rice till it is thoroughly tender and soft4 ,now place it in a large bowl1 and with a wooden spoon mash it till it becomes a sort of firm1 compact paste2 then take it out and roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball1 and having done this1 flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one meets with in ,holland--flat top and bottom1 with rounded edges4 ,you can now ornament the outside by making it resemble a fluted mould of jelly4 ,the best way of doing this is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside with a cheese-scoop1 so that the width of the part where it is scooped is about the same as the two flat sides4 ,make the outside of the rice perfectly smooth with the back of a wooden spoon4 ,butter the carrot mould to prevent it sticking1 and press this gently on the outside of the shape of rice till it resembles the outside of a column in ,gothic architecture1 then place it in the oven and let it bake till it is firm and dry4 ,then scoop out the centre and put it back for a short time4 ,if the border is going to be used for a macedoine of vegetables1 beat up a yolk of egg and paint the outside of the casserole with this1 and then it will bake a nice golden-brown colour4 ,now take it out of the oven and fill it accordingly4 ,it can be served hot or cold1 or it can be filled with a ,german salad4 7,see ,,macedoine ,,of ,,fruit2 ,,macedoine ,,of ,,vegetables2 ,,salad1 ,,german47 ,,rice ,,croquettes1 ,,savoury4--,boil a teacupful of rice in some stock or water 7about two breakfastcupfuls71 till it is tender1 and until the rice has absorbed all the water or stock4 ,chop up a small onion very fine1 fry it till tender in a very little butter1 but do not let it brown2 add a small teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs1 a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 to the contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes1 and then add them to the rice4 ,mix it well together1 and let the rice dry in the oven till the mixture is capable of being rolled into balls4 ,now take two eggs1 separate the yolk from the white of one1 beat up the whole egg and one white thoroughly in a basin1 but do no beat it to a froth2 add the rice mixture to this1 mix it again very thoroughly1 and then roll it into balls about the size of a small walnut1 seasoning the mixture with sufficient pepper and salt4 ,roll these balls in flour1 in order to insure the outside being dry1 and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in order to get rid of the superfluous flour4 ,make some very fine bread-crumbs from some stale bread2 next beat up the yolk of egg with about a dessertspoonful of warm water4 ,dip the rice-balls into this1 and then cover them with the bread-crumbs4 ,let them stand for an hour or two for the bread-crumbs to get dry1 and then fry them a light golden-brown colour in a little oil4 ,fried parsley can be served with them4 ,instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli--the bottom of a jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised this way4 ,this has a very pretty appearance4 ,the vermicelli browns quickly1 and the croquettes have the appearance of little balls covered in brown network4 ,,rice1 ,,savoury4--,there are several ways of serving savoury rice4 ,the rice can be boiled in some stock1 strongly flavoured with onion and celery1 and when cooked sufficiently tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it1 pepper and salt added1 and the mixture served with grated cheese4 ,rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms1 pepper and salt1 and a little butter1 and if a tin of mushrooms is used1 the liquor in the tin should be added to the boiled rice1 but in every case the rice should be made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled4 ,eggs can again be added1 as well as grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,a cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it with a large tablespoonful of chutney2 make it hot with a little butter1 and add pepper--cayenne if preferred--and a little lemon-juice4 ,rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet1 given in the chapter entitled ,sauces4 ,,rice ,,and ,,eggs4--,boil1 say half a pound of rice1 and let it absorb the water in which it is boiled4 ,take four hard-boiled eggs1 separate the yolks from the whites1 chop the whites very fine1 and add them to the rice with about a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley and sufficient savoury herbs to cover a sixpence4 ,put this in the saucepan and make it hot1 with a little butter1 and flavour with plenty of pepper and salt4 ,in the meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow powder1 turn out the rice mixture1 when thoroughly hot1 into a vegetable dish1 and put the yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the yellow powder round the edge of the rice1 and serve a little pile of fried parsley in the middle4 ,,rice ,,and ,,tomato4--,take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes1 squeeze out the pips1 and put them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to bake2 baste them occasionally with a little butter4 ,in the meantime boil half a pound of rice in a little stock or water1 only adding sufficient so that the rice can absorb the liquid4 ,when this is done 7and this will take about the same time as the tomatoes take to bake71 pour all the liquid and butter in the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt4 ,put this on a dish1 and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red1 unbroken side uppermost4 ,,macaroni4--,macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten flour4 ,it is chiefly made in ,italy1 though a good deal is made in ,geneva and ,switzerland4 ,the best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of ,naples4 ,the wheat that grows there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot sun1 and consequently the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside of the wheat is whiter than that grown in ,england4 ,the wheat is ground and sifted repeatedly4 ,it is generally sifted about five times1 and the pure snow-white flour that falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni4 ,it is first mixed with water and made into a sort of dough1 the dough being kneaded in the truly orthodox ,eastern style by being trodden out with the feet4 ,it is then forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes1 partially baked during the process1 and then hung up to dry4 ,macaroni contains a great amount of nourishment1 and it is only made from the purest and finest flour4 ,it is the staple dish throughout ,italy1 and in whatever form or way it is cooked1 except as a sweet1 tomatoes and grated ,parmesan cheese seem bound to accompany it4 ,,sparghetti4--,sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni4 ,ordinary macaroni is made in the form of long tubes1 and when macaroni pudding is served in schools1 it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes4 ,sparghetti is not a tube1 but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary wax-tapers1 which it resembles very much in appearance4 ,in ,italy it is often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti1 and should the dinner consist as well of soup1 fish1 entree1 salad1 and sweet1 the sparghetti would be served before the soup4 ,take1 say1 half a pound of sparghetti1 wash it in cold water1 and throw it instantly into boiling salted water2 boil it till it is tender1 about twenty minutes1 drain it1 put it into a hot vegetable-dish1 and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese2 toss it about lightly with a couple of forks1 till the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about4 ,add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve 7sold by all grocers1 in bottles71 and serve immediately4 ,this is very cheap1 very satisfying1 and very nourishing2 and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not more often used by those who are not vegetarians1 who would benefit both in pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher's bill by at any rate commencing dinner1 like the ,italians1 with a dish of sparghetti4 ,,macaroni--,,italian ,,fashion4--,this is very similar to sparghetti1 only ordinary pipe macaroni is used4 ,take1 say1 a teacupful of macaroni1 wash it1 break it up into two-inch pieces1 and throw it into boiling water that has been salted4 ,strain it of off1 put it in the stew-pan for a few minutes1 with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt4 ,add a tablespoonful of tomato conserve1 and serve it with some grated ,parmesan cheese1 served separate in a dish4 ,some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic4 ,this gives it what may be called a more foreign flavour1 but this should not be done unless you know your guests like garlic4 ,unfortunately1 the proper use of garlic is very little understood in this country4 ,,macaroni ,,cheese4--,some years back this was almost the only form in which macaroni was served in this country4 ,macaroni cheese used to be served at the finish of dinner in a dried-up state1 and was perhaps one of the most indigestible dishes which the skill1 or want of skill1 of our ,english cooks was able to produce4 ,wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a little milk till it is quite tender1 then put into a well-buttered oval tin a layer of macaroni1 and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs1 mixed with grated cheese1 and add a few little lumps of butter2 then put another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese4 ,continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish1 taking care to have a layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top4 ,warm some butter1 but do not oil it1 and pour some of this warm butter over the top of the dish to moisten them2 put the dish in the oven till it is hot through1 then take it out and brown the top quickly with a red-hot salamander4 ,if you leave the macaroni cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the cheese get so hard as to become absolutely indigestible4 ,any kind of grated cheese will do for this dish1 but to the ,english palate it is best when made from a moist cheese similar to that which would be used in making ,welsh rabbit4 ,,macaroni ,,and ,,eggs4--,take half a pound of macaroni and throw it into boiling water that has been salted4 ,in the meantime have ready four hard-boiled eggs4 ,when the macaroni is nearly tender throw the hard-boiled eggs into cold water for a minute1 in order to enable you to take off the shells without burning your fingers4 ,cut the eggs in half1 take out the half yellow yolk without breaking it2 cut the whites of the eggs into rings and mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish4 ,the macaroni and eggs must be flavoured with pepper and salt1 and if possible pour a little white sauce over the whole4 ,if you have no white sauce add a little cream or a little thickened milk with a little butter dissolved in it2 now sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with the eight half-yolks4 ,,macaroni ,a ,,la ,,reine4--,boil half a pound of pipe macaroni4 ,meanwhile warm slowly in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of cream1 and slice into it half a pound of ,stilton or other white cheese1 add two ounces of good fresh butter1 two blades of mace1 pounded1 a good pinch of cayenne and a little salt4 ,stir until the cheese is melted and the whole is free from lumps1 when put in the macaroni and move it gently round the pan until mixed and hot1 or put the macaroni on a hot dish and pour the sauce over4 ,it may be covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a ,dutch oven4 ,,macaroni ,,au ,,gratin4--,break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths1 boil as usual and drain4 ,put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter1 the macaroni1 twelve ounces of ,parmesan and ,gruyere cheese mixed1 and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce1 white sauce4 ,move the stew-pan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the butter1 etc41 then turn it out on a dish1 which should be garnished with croutons of fried bread4 ,pile it in the shape of a dome1 cover with bread-raspings1 a little clarified butter run through a colander1 and brown very lightly with a salamander4 ,n4,b4--,the above two recipes are taken from ,cassell's ,dictionary of ,cookery4 ,,macaroni ,,as ,,an ,,ornament4--,macaroni is sometimes used to ornament the outside of puddings1 either savoury or sweet4 ,suppose the pudding has to be made in a small round mould or basin4 ,some pipe macaroni is boiled in water till it is tender1 and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an inch in length4 ,the inside of the mould is first thickly buttered1 and then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close together2 the pudding1 for instance a custard pudding1 is then poured into the mould and the mould steamed4 ,when the pudding is turned out the outside of the pudding has the appearance of a honey-comb1 and looks extremely pretty4 ,the process is not difficult1 but rather troublesome1 as it requires time and patience4 ,,macaroni1 ,,timbale ,,of--,this is a somewhat expensive dish4 ,you have first to decorate a plain mould with what is called nouilles paste1 which is made by mixing half a pound of flour with five yolks of eggs4 ,the mould is then lined with ordinary short paste1 made with half a pound of flour1 a quarter of a pound of butter1 and one yolk of egg1 mixed in the ordinary way4 ,when the mould is lined1 you have to fill it up with flour1 and bake it in a moderate oven for about an hour4 ,you then take it out1 empty out the flour and brush it well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very slack oven4 ,the mould is then filled with some macaroni that has been boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and sugar and ,parmesan cheese4 ,the macaroni must be so managed that it absorbs the moisture4 ,the mould is filled1 made hot1 and then turned out4 ,it is customary to shake some powdered sugar over the mould1 and then glaze it with a red-hot salamander4 ,n4,b4--,very few kitchens possess a proper salamander1 but if you make the kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found to answer the same purpose4 ,,macaroni ,,in ,,scollop ,,shells4--,take half a pound of macaroni1 wash it1 and throw it into boiling water4 ,take the macaroni out1 drain it1 and throw it into cold water4 ,then take it out and cut it into pieces not more than half an inch in length4 ,take about a quarter of a pound of butter1 melt it in a stew-pan1 and add about a cupful of milk1 or still better1 cream4 ,stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick1 or still better1 thicken it with a little white roux2 now add some pepper and salt1 about a quarter of a grated nutmeg1 two or three spoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese2 add the cut-up macaroni and stir the whole well up over the fire together and fill the scollop shells with the mixture1 and throw some grated cheese over the top4 ,bake the scollops in the oven till the cheese begins to brown2 then pour a little oiled butter over the top of the cheese4 ,if made with cream this dish is somewhat rich1 but forms an admirable meal eaten with plenty of bread4 ,,macaroni ,,nudels4--,the word nudel is probably derived from ,french nouilles paste4 ,it is made in a similar manner1 or nearly so4 ,french cooks use only yolk of egg and flour4 ,english cooks use beaten-up eggs1 and sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and make the paste with white of egg4 ,in any case1 the yolks1 the whole eggs1 or the white without the yolks1 must be well beaten up and then mixed in with the flour with the fingers till it makes a stiff paste4 ,this paste or dough is then rolled out with a straight rolling pin--7not an ,english one7--till it is as thin as a wafer4 ,the board must be well floured or it will stick4 ,a marble slab is best1 and if you are at a loss for a rolling-pin try an empty black bottle4 ,it is very important to roll the pastry thin1 and it has been well observed that the best test of thinness is to be able to read a book through the paste4 ,when rolled out1 let each thin cake dry for five or ten minutes4 ,if you have a box of cutters you can cut this paste into all sorts of shapes according to the shape of the cutters1 or you can cut each thin cake into pieces about the same size1 and then with a sharp dry knife cut the paste into threads4 ,these threads or ornamental shapes can be thrown into boiling clear soup1 when they will separate of their own accord4 ,nudel paste is1 in fact1 home-made ,italian paste1 or1 when cut into threads1 home-made vermicelli4 ,it is very nourishing1 as it is made with eggs and flour4 ,,macaroni1 ,,savoury4--,take half a pound of macaroni and boil it in some slightly salted water1 and let it boil and simmer till the macaroni is tender and absorbs all the water in which it is boiled4 ,now take a dessertspoonful of raw mustard1 i4e41 mustard in the yellow powder4 ,mix this gradually with the macaroni1 and add five or six tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to taste4 ,turn the mixture out on to a dish1 sprinkle some more grated ,parmesan cheese over the top1 bake it in the oven till it is slightly brown1 pour a little oiled butter on the top1 and serve4 ,,macaroni ,,and ,,chestnuts4--,bake about twenty chestnuts till they are tender1 and then peel them and pound them in a mortar1 with a little pepper and salt and butter1 till they are a paste4 ,next wash and boil in the ordinary way half a pound of macaroni4 ,drain off the macaroni and put it in a stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of butter to moisten it1 and stir it all together and put an onion in to flavour it as if you were making bread sauce2 but the onion must be taken out whole before it is served4 ,if the mixture gets too dry1 it can be moistened with a little milk or stock4 ,after it has been stirred together for about a quarter of an hour1 turn it out on to a dish1 cover it with a little ,parmesan cheese1 bake in the oven till it is brown1 and moisten the top when browned with a little oiled butter4 ,,macaroni ,,and ,,tomatoes4--,take half a pound of macaroni2 wash it and boil it until it is tender4 ,in the meantime take half a dozen or more ripe tomatoes2 cut off the stalks1 squeeze out the pips1 and place them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to prevent their sticking4 ,it is as well to baste the tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will come from them4 ,put the macaroni when tender and well drained off into a vegetable-dish1 pour the contents of the tin1 butter and juice1 over the macaroni and add pepper and salt1 and toss it lightly together4 ,now place the whole tomatoes on the top of the macaroni1 round the edge1 at equal distances4 ,it is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni4 ,the tomatoes should be placed with the smooth1 red1 unbroken side uppermost4 ,macaroni and ,cream4--,boil half a pound of macaroni2 cut it up into pieces about two inches long and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese1 composed of equal parts of ,gruyere and ,parmesan cheese4 ,moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes cobwebs4 ,add a little pepper and salt and serve with some fried bread round the edge cut up into ornamental shapes4 ,carefully made pieces of toast1 cut into triangles1 will do instead of the fried bread4 ,,tagliatelli4--,take some flour and water1 and with the addition of a little salt make a paste which can be rolled out quite thin2 cut this into shapes of the breadth of half a finger4 ,throw them into boiling water and let them boil a few minutes4 ,then remove them to cold water2 drain them on a sieve and use them as macaroni2 place at the bottom of a dish some butter and grated cheese1 then a layer of tagliatelli seasoned with pepper1 another layer of butter and cheese1 and then one of tagliatelli1 until the whole is used2 pour over it a glass of cream1 add a layer of cheese1 and finish like macaroni cheese1 browning it in the oven4 ,,oatmeal ,,porridge4--,of all dishes used by vegetarians there are none more wholesome1 more nourishing1 or more useful as an article of everyday diet for breakfast than oatmeal porridge4 ,when we remember that the ,scotch1 who1 for both body and brain1 rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations1 almost live on this cheap and agreeable form of food1 we should take particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is in itself a strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when we look at the results1 both mentally and bodily1 that have followed its use ,north of the ,tweed4 ,the following excellent recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is taken from a book entitled1 ,a ,year's ,cookery1 by ,phyllis ,browne 7,cassell ,co473--,when there are children in the family it is a good plan1 whatever they may have for breakfast1 to let them begin the meal either with oatmeal porridge or bread-and-milk4 ,porridge is wholesome and nourishing1 and will help to make them strong and hearty4 ,even grown-up people frequently enjoy a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk4 ,oatmeal is either 'coarse1' 'medium1' or 'fine4' ,individual taste must determine which of these three varieties shall be chosen4 ,scotch people generally prefer the coarsest kind4 ,the ordinary way of making porridge is the following--,put as much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan with a sprinkling of salt1 and let the water boil4 ,half a pint of water will make a single plateful of porridge4 ,take a knife 7a 'spurtle' is the proper utensil7 in the right hand1 and some ,scotch1 or coarse1 oatmeal in the left hand1 and sprinkle the meal in gradually1 stirring it briskly all the time2 if any lumps form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them out4 ,when the porridge is sufficiently thick 7the degree of thickness must be regulated by individual taste71 draw the pan back a little1 put on the lid1 and let the contents simmer gently till wanted2 if it can have two hours' simmering1 all the better2 but in hundreds of families in ,scotland and the ,north of ,england it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour2 less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long time1 because the simmering swells the oatmeal1 and so makes it go twice as far4 ,during the boiling the porridge must be stirred frequently to keep it from sticking to the saucepan and burning1 but each time this is done the lid must be put on again4 ,when it is done enough it should be poured into a basin or upon a plate1 and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or cream4 ,the very best method that can be adopted for making porridge is to soak the coarse ,scotch oatmeal in water for twelve hours1 or more 7if the porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put into a pie-dish over night1 and left till morning74 ,as soon as the fire is lighted in the morning it should be placed on it1 stirred occasionally1 kept covered1 and boiled as long as possible1 although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty minutes4 ,when thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate jelly1 and acceptable to the most fastidious palate4 ,the proportions for porridge made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal to a pint of water4 ,it is scarcely necessary to give directions for making-- ,,bread ,,and ,,milk1 for everyone knows how this should be done4 ,it may be said that the preparation has a better appearance if the bread is cut very small before the boiling milk is poured on it1 and also that the addition of a small pinch of salt takes away the insipidity4 ,rigid economists sometimes swell the bread with boiling water1 then drain this off and pour milk in its place4 ,this1 however1 is almost a pity1 for milk is so very good for children2 and though recklessness is seldom to be recommended1 a mother might well be advised to be reckless about the amount of her milk bill1 provided always that the quantity of milk be not wasted1 and that the children have it4 ,,milk ,,porridge4--,take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix it up in a cup with a little cold milk till it is quite smooth1 in a similar way as you would mix ordinary flour and milk in making batter4 ,next put a pint of milk on to boil1 and as soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk1 and let it boil for about a quarter of an hour1 taking care to keep stirring it the whole time4 ,the fire should not be too fierce1 as the milk is very apt to burn4 ,flavour this with either salt or sugar4 ,,rice ,,and ,,barley ,,porridge4--,take a quarter of a pound of rice and a quarter of a pound of ,scotch barley and wash them very thoroughly4 ,the most perfect way of washing barley and rice is to throw them into boiling water1 let them boil for five or ten minutes1 and then strain them off4 ,by this means the dirty outside is dissolved4 ,next boil the rice and barley gently for three or four hours1 strain them off1 and boil them up again in a little milk for a short time before they are wanted4 ,it will often be found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and then add the rice4 ,a little cream is a very great improvement4 ,the porridge can be flavoured with pepper and salt1 but is very nice with brown sugar1 treacle1 or jam1 and when cold forms an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit4 ,,whole-,,meal ,,porridge4--,boil a quart of water and gradually stir in about half a pound of whole-meal2 let it boil for about a quarter of an hour1 and serve4 ,cold milk should accompany this porridge4 ,,lentil ,,porridge4--,to every quart of water add about six tablespoonfuls of lentil flour2 let the whole boil for about a quarter of an hour1 and flavour with pepper and salt4 ,,hominy4--,take a teacupful of hominy1 wash it in several waters and rub it well between the hands1 and throw away the grains that float on the top1 the same as you do with split peas1 pour the water off the top1 then strain it off1 and put it in a basin with a quart of water1 and cover the basin over with a cloth2 put it by to soak overnight1 should it be required for breakfast in the morning4 ,the next day put it in an enamelled stew-pan with about a teaspoonful of salt1 and let it simmer gently over the fire1 taking care that it does not burn4 ,it is best to butter the bottom of the saucepan1 or if you have a small plate that will just go inside you will find this a great protection4 ,let it simmer gently for rather more than an hour4 ,stir it well up and flavour it with either sugar or salt1 and let it be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the plate1 or with a little butter4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water in which it is boiled4 ,as a rule a good teacupful will absorb a quart4 ,,hominy1 ,,fried4--,this is made from the remains of cold boiled hominy4 ,when cold it will be a firm jelly4 ,cut the cold hominy into slices1 flour them1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil till they are of a nice bright golden colour4 ,they are very nice eaten with lemon-juice and sugar1 or they can be served with orange marmalade4 ,,frumenty4--,take a quarter of a pint of wheat1 wash it thoroughly1 and let it soak for twelve hours or more in water4 ,strain it off and boil it in some milk till it is tender1 but do not let it get pulpy4 ,as soon as it is tender add a quart of milk1 flavoured with a little cinnamon1 three ounces of sugar1 three ounces of carefully washed grocer's currants1 and let it boil for a quarter of an hour4 ,beat up three yolks of eggs in a tureen1 and gradually add the mixture4 ,it must not be added to the eggs in a boiling state or else they will curdle4 ,a wineglassful of brandy is a great improvement1 but is not absolutely necessary4 ,the wheat takes a long time to get tender1 probably four hours4 ,,sago ,,porridge4--,wash the sago in cold water and boil it in some water1 allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every pint2 add pepper and salt and let cold milk be served with the porridge4 ,,milk ,,toast4--,this is a very useful way of using up stale bread4 ,toast the bread a light brown1 and if by chance any part gets black scrape it gently off4 ,butter the toast slightly1 lay the toast on the bottom of a soup-plate1 and pour some boiling milk over it4 ,very little butter should be used1 and children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,eggs 7,,savoury7 ,,and ,,omelets4 ,,eggs1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,there is an old saying that there is reason in the roasting of eggs4 ,this certainly applies equally to the more common process of boiling them4 ,there are few breakfast delicacies more popular than a new-laid egg4 ,there are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting than the doubtful egg which makes its appearance from time to time1 and which may be classed under the general heading of ,shop 'uns4 ,it is a sad and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful shop 'uns were all once new-laid4 ,it is impossible to draw any hard-and-fast line to say at what exact period an egg ceases to be fit for boiling4 ,there is an old tradition1 the truth of which we do not endorse1 that eggs may arrive at a period when1 though they are not fit to be boiled1 fried1 poached1 or hard-boiled1 they are still good enough for puddings and pastry4 ,there is no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt because cooks imagine they can use up doubtful eggs4 ,when eggs are more than doubtful1 they are often bought up by the smaller pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods of our large towns1 such as the ,east-,end of ,london4 ,these eggs are called spot eggs1 and are sold at thirty and forty a shilling4 ,they utilise them as follows3 ,they hold the egg up in front of a bright gas-light1 when the small black spot can be clearly seen4 ,this black spot is kept at the lowest point of the egg1 i4e41 the egg is held so that this black spot is at the bottom4 ,the upper part of the egg is then broken and poured off1 the black spot being retained4 ,the moment the smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the pouring-off process is stopped4 ,of course1 the black part is all thrown away1 the stench from it being almost intolerable1 containing1 as it does1 sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,we mention the fact for what it is worth4 ,it would be a bold man who tried to lay down any law as to where waste ceases and the use of wrongful material commences4 ,everything depends upon the circumstances of the case in question4 ,we fear there are many thousands1 hundreds of thousands1 in this great city of ,london1 whose everyday life more or less compares with that of a shipwrecked crew4 ,they fain would fill their belly with the husks that the swine do eat1 but no man gives unto them4 ,there is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet--that1 were it universal1 grinding poverty would be banished from the earth4 ,we must not cry out too soon about using what some men call bad material4 ,lord ,byron1 when he was starving after shipwreck1 was glad to make a meal off the paws of his favourite dog1 which had been thrown away when the carcase had been used on a former occasion4 ,the simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting in boiling water1 and boil them from three to three and a half to four minutes1 according to whether they are liked very lightly boiled1 medium1 or well-set4 ,the egg saucepan should be small1 so that when the eggs are first plunged in it takes the water off the boil for a few seconds1 otherwise the eggs are likely to crack4 ,this applies more particularly to ,french eggs1 which have thin1 brittle shells containing an excess of lime1 probably due to the large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature of the soil in the ,pas de ,calais1 which is the chief neighbourhood from which ,french eggs are imported4 ,over a million eggs are imported from ,france to ,england every day1 notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept awake by the crying of their neighbours' fowls4 ,there is a strange delusion among ,londoners that an egg is not good if it is milky4 ,this1 of course1 is never met with in ,london1 for the simple reason that a milky egg means1 as a rule1 than it has not been laid more than a few hours4 ,for this reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not suitable for making puddings or even omelets4 ,eggs that have been kept one or two days will be found to answer better1 as they possess more binding properties4 ,there is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an egg is to place it in the saucepan in cold water1 to put the saucepan on the fire1 and as soon as the water boils the egg is done4 ,a very little reflection will show that this entirely depends upon the size of the saucepan and the fierceness of the fire4 ,if the saucepan were the size of the egg1 the water would boil before the egg was hot through2 on the other hand1 no one could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then light the copper fire4 ,eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire1 or in an ornamental egg-boiler4 ,by this means we get the eggs hot1 an occurrence almost unknown in large hotels and big establishments4 ,,eggs1 ,,to ,,break4--,whenever you break eggs1 never mind what quantity1 always break each egg separately into a cup first2 see that it is good1 and then throw it into a basin with the rest4 ,one bad egg would spoil fifty4 ,supposing you have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the nest1 it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been overlooked for weeks1 and which may be a half-hatched mass of putrefaction4 ,,eggs1 ,,fried4--,the first point is to have a clean frying-pan1 which is an article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met with in this country4 ,for frying eggs1 and for making omelets1 it is essential that the frying-pan should never be used for other purposes4 ,if you think your frying-pan is perfectly clean1 warm it in front of the fire for half a minute1 put a clean white cloth over the top of the finger1 and then rub the inside of the frying-pan4 ,to fry eggs properly1 very little butter will be required2 a little olive-oil will answer the same purpose4 ,if you have too much fat1 the white of the eggs are apt to develop into big bubbles or blisters4 ,another point is1 you do not want too fierce a fire4 ,fry them very slowly4 ,some cooks will almost burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set4 ,as soon as the white is set round the edge1 you will often find the yolk not set at all1 surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent albumen4 ,when this is the case1 it is very often a good plan to take the frying-pan off the fire 7we are presuming the stove is a shut-up one71 and place it in the oven for a minute or so1 leaving the oven door open4 ,by this means the heat of the oven will set the upper part of the eggs1 and there is no danger of the bottom part being burnt4 ,there is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan and serving them on a dish4 ,fried eggs1 to look nice1 should have the yolk in the centre1 surrounded by a ring of white1 perfectly round1 rather more than an inch in breadth4 ,take an egg-slice in the left hand1 slide it under each egg separately1 so that the yolk gets well into the middle of the slice4 ,now take a knife in the right hand and trim off the superfluous white4 ,by this means you will be able to do it neatly4 ,the part trimmed away is virtually refuse4 ,of course1 you do not throw away more than is necessary1 but take care that the white rim round the yolk is of uniform breadth4 ,most cooks take the egg out with their right hand1 and attempt to trim it with the left2 the result is about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt to write a letter with your left hand in a hurry4 ,very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by sprinkling over them a few specks of chopped parsley4 ,in placing fried eggs on toast1 place the slice over the toast and draw the slice away4 ,do not push the egg on2 you may break it4 ,,eggs1 ,,poached4--,the best kitchen implement to use for poaching eggs is a good large frying-pan4 ,the mistake is to let the water boil2 it should only just simmer4 ,you should avoid having the white of the egg set too hard4 ,we should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible4 ,in order to insure this1 put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice into the water1 break the eggs separately into a clip1 and then turn them very gently into the hot water4 ,when they are set fairly firm take them out with an egg-slice1 using the left hand as before1 and trim them with the right4 ,it is not necessary1 in poached eggs1 to have a clear yolk surrounded with a white uniform ring4 ,poached eggs often look best when the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white4 ,before putting them on toast or spinach1 c41 be very careful to drain off the water2 this is particularly important when the water is acid1 especially with vinegar4 ,,eggs1 ,,hard-,,boiled4--,place the eggs in cold water1 bring the water to boiling point1 and let them boil for ten minutes2 if the hard-boiled eggs are wanted hot1 put them in cold water for half a minute1 in order that you may remove the shells without burning your fingers4 ,if the eggs are required cold1 it is best not to remove the shells till just before they are wanted2 but if they have to be served cold1 similar to what we meet with at railway refreshment-rooms1 let them be served cold1 whole4 ,if you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon gets discoloured and brown round the edge1 shrivels up1 and becomes most unappetising in appearance4 ,,eggs1 ,,curried4--,take some hard-boiled eggs1 cut them in halves 7remove the half-yolks71 and cut them into rings4 ,place all these rings round the edge of the dish1 and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border2 pour some thick curry sauce in the middle1 place the half-yolks at equal distances apart1 on the white round the edge1 and sprinkle a few specks of green parsley round the edge on the whites2 this will give the dish a pretty appearance4 ,,eggs1 ,,devilled4--,take1 say1 half a dozen eggs1 boil them hard1 remove the shells while hot1 cut them in halves1 scoop out the yolk1 and cut a tiny piece off the bottom of each white cup1 so that it will stand upright--a la ,columbus4 ,next take all the yolks1 and put them in a basin1 and pound them with a little butter till you get a thick squash2 add some cayenne pepper1 according to taste1 a little white pepper1 a little salt1 and a few drops of chilli-vinegar or ordinary vinegar2 you can also add a little finely chopped parsley--say a teaspoonful4 ,fill each cup with some of this mixture1 and as there will be more than enough to fill them1 owing to the butter1 bring them to a point1 like a cone4 ,devilled eggs are best served cold1 in which case they look best placed on a silver or ordinary dish1 the bottom of which is covered with green parsley2 the white looks best on a green bed4 ,some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off from the bottom of the cups1 divide them into two portions1 and colour one half pink by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal4 ,these white and pink specks are then sprinkled over the parsley4 ,n4,b4--,in an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy sauce to be mixed with the yolks1 but anchovy sauce is not allowed in vegetarian cookery4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,bonne ,,femme4--,proceed exactly as in making devilled eggs1 till you place the yolks in the basin2 then add to these yolks1 while hot1 a little dissolved butter1 and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot1 turnip1 celery1 and beet-root2 season with white pepper and salt1 and mix well together4 ,add also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice4 ,fill the cups with this while the mixture is moist1 as when the butter gets cold the mixture gets firm4 ,if you use chopped beet-root as well as other vegetables1 it is best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before any beetroot is added1 then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up and it will turn a bright red4 ,now fill the remaining half of the cups1 and place them on the dish containing the parsley1 alternately4 ,the red contrasts prettily with the light yellowish white of the first half4 ,do not colour the white specks with cochineal1 as this is a different shade of red from the beet-root4 ,you can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the parsley with a little chopped beet-root as well4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,tripe4--,small ,spanish onions are perhaps best for this dish1 but ordinary onions can be used4 ,cut the onions cross-ways after peeling them1 so that they fall in rings1 and remove the white core4 ,two ,spanish or half a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient4 ,fry these rings of onions in butter till they are tender1 without browning them4 ,take them out of the frying-pan and put them aside4 ,add a spoonful of flour to the frying-pan1 and make a paste with the butter1 and then add sufficient milk so that when it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick sauce2 add pepper and salt1 a little lemon-juice1 and a small quantity of grated nutmeg4 ,put back the rings of onions into this1 and let them simmer gently4 ,take half a dozen hard-boiled eggs1 cut the eggs in halves1 remove the yolks1 and cut the whites into rings1 like the onions1 mixing these white egg-rings with the onions and sauce2 make the whole hot and serve on a dish1 using the hard-boiled half-yolks to garnish2 sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the whole1 and serve4 ,,egg1 ,,forcemeat ,,of1 ,,or ,,egg ,,balls4--,take three hard-boiled yolks of eggs1 powder them1 mix in a raw yolk1 add a little pepper and salt1 a small quantity of grated nutmeg1 about a saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley1 chopped up with a pinch of savoury herbs1 or a pinch of dust from bottled savoury herbs1 sifted from them1 may be added instead4 ,roll these into balls not bigger than a very small marble1 flour them1 and throw them into boiling water till they are set4 ,in many parts of the ,continent1 hard-boiled yolks of eggs1 served whole1 are used as egg balls4 ,a much cheaper way of making egg balls is as follows3--,beat up one egg1 add a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley1 some pepper and salt1 and a very little grated nutmeg4 ,sift a bottle of ordinary mixed savoury herbs in a sieve1 and take about half a saltspoonful of the dust and mix this with the egg1 ,this will be found really better than using the herbs themselves4 ,now make some very fine bread-crumbs from stale bread1 and mix this with the beaten-up egg till you make a sort of soft paste or dough2 roll this into balls the size of a marble1 flour them1 and throw them into boiling water4 ,the balls must be small or they will split in boiling4 ,,eggs ,,au ,,gratin4--,make about half a pint of butter sauce1 make it hot over the fire1 and stir in about two ounces of ,parmesan cheese1 a quarter of a nutmeg grated1 some white pepper1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,make this hot1 and then add the yolks of four eggs4 ,stir it all up1 and keep stirring very quickly till the mixture begins to thicken1 when you must instantly remove it from the fire1 but continue stirring for another minute4 ,in the meantime have ready some hard-boiled eggs1 cut these into slices1 and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish2 then spread a layer of the mixture over the slices of egg1 and place another layer on this smaller than the one below1 then another layer of mixture1 and so on with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid4 ,spread a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface1 and sprinkle some powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated ,parmesan cheese over the whole2 place the dish in the oven to get hot and to slightly brown1 and then serve4 ,some fried bread cut into pretty shapes can be used to ornament the base4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,spinach4--,make a thick puree of spinach2 take some hard-boiled eggs1 cut them in halves while hot1 after removing the shells1 and press each half a little way into the puree1 so that the yellow yolk will be shown surrounded by the white ring4 ,be very careful not to smear the edge with the spinach4 ,n4,b4--,sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach whole4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,turnip-,,tops4--,proceed exactly as above1 using a puree of turnip-tops instead of spinach4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,asparagus4--,have ready some of the green parts of asparagus1 boiled tender1 and cut up into little pieces an eighth of an inch long so that they look like peas4 ,beat up four eggs very thoroughly with some pepper and salt1 and mix in the asparagus1 only do not break the pieces of green4 ,melt a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan1 and as soon as it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus2 stir the mixture quickly over the fire1 being careful to scrape the bottom of the saucepan4 ,as soon as the mixture thickens pour it on some hot toast1 and serve4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,celery4--,have ready some stewed celery on toast4 7,see ,,celery1 ,,stewed47 ,poach some eggs and place them on the top4 ,hard-boiled eggs1 cut into slices1 can be added to the celery instead of poached eggs4 ,when stewed celery is served as a course by itself1 the addition of the eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome and satisfying meal4 ,,egg ,,salad4--7,see ,,salads47 ,,egg ,,sandwiches4--7,see ,,sandwiches47 ,,egg ,,sauce4--7,see ,,sauces47 ,,egg ,,toast4--,beat up a couple of eggs1 melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan1 and add to it a little pepper and salt4 ,as soon as the butter begins to froth1 add the beaten-up egg and stir the mixture very quickly1 and the moment it begins to thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered toast4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,dauphine4--,take ten hard-boiled eggs1 cut them in halves and remove the yolks1 and place the yolks in a basin with a piece of new bread1 about as big as the fist1 that has been soaked in some milk1 or better still1 cream2 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 a quarter of a grated nutmeg1 and two ounces of grated ,parmesan cheese2 rub the whole well together1 and then add two whole eggs1 well beaten up1 to the mixture to moisten it4 ,next fill all these white cups of eggs with some of this mixture1 place the eggs well together1 and spread a thin layer of the mixture over the top2 then take a smaller number of half-eggs1 filled1 and place on the top and make a pyramid1 so that a single half-egg is at the top4 ,you can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer1 six half-eggs on the top of these1 spreading a thin layer of the mixture1 then three half-eggs1 one more layer of the mixture1 and then one half-egg at the summit4 ,this dish is sometimes ornamented by forcing hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a wire sieve4 ,it falls like yellow vermicelli into threads4 ,this dish should be placed in the oven1 to be made quite hot1 and some kind of white sauce should be poured round the edge4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,black ,,butter4--,fry some eggs1 serve them up on a hot dish1 and pour some black butter round the base4 7,see ,,black ,,butter ,,sauce47 ,,eggs ,,and ,,garlic4--,this is better adapted for an ,italian than an ,english palate4 ,take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry them in a little butter in order to remove the rankness of flavour4 ,take them out and pound them in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful of oil2 heat this on the fire in a stew-pan1 after adding some pepper and salt4 ,beat up an egg1 and stir this in with the oil and garlic till the mixture gets thick4 ,arrange some slices of hard-boiled eggs--four eggs would be sufficient--pour this mixture in the centre1 and serve4 ,,eggs ,,with ,,mushrooms4--,take half a pint of button mushrooms and1 if fresh1 peel them and throw them instantly into water made acid with lemon-juice1 in order that they may not turn a bad colour4 ,in the meantime slice up a good-sized ,spanish onion1 and fry the onion in a little butter4 ,as soon as the onion is a little tender1 chop up and add the mushrooms4 ,put all this into a stew-pan with a little butter sauce1 or a little water can be added and then thickened with a little butter and flour4 ,let this simmer gently for nearly half an hour1 add a little made mustard1 pepper and salt and a dessertspoonful of vinegar4 ,before sending to table add half a dozen hard-boiled eggs2 the whites should be cut into rings1 and should be only put into the sauce long enough to get hot2 the yolks should be kept separate1 but must be warmed up in the sauce4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,onions4--,cut up a large ,spanish onion in slices1 and fry it in some butter till it is a light brown and tender1 but do not let it burn2 drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish2 sprinkle some cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions1 and squeeze the juice of a whole lemon over them4 ,now poach some eggs and serve them on the top of the onion4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,potatoes4--,take the remains of some floury potatoes1 beat up an egg1 and mix the potato flour with the egg4 ,you can also chop up very finely a small quantity of onion and parsley1 and season with plenty of pepper and salt4 ,the respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten egg must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls without their having any tendency to break4 ,make the balls big enough so that when you press them between the hands you can squeeze the ball into the shape of an ordinary egg1 or you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon4 ,now flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface1 and then dip them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried bread-crumbs1 and fry them in a little butter or oil1 or brown them in the oven1 occasionally basting them with a little butter4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,sauce ,,robert4--,take some hard-boiled eggs1 cut them into quarters1 and make them hot in some ,sauce ,robert--7see ,,robert ,,sauce7--and serve with fried or toasted bread in a dish4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,sorrel4--,make a thick puree of sorrel--7see ,,sorrel ,,sauce7--and serve some hard-boiled or poached eggs on the top4 ,,eggs1 ,,broiled4--,cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a big loaf2 toast it lightly1 put some pieces of butter on it1 and put it on a dish in front of the fire2 then break some eggs carefully on to the toast1 and let them set from the heat of the fire like a joint roasting2 when the side nearest the fire gets set1 it will be necessary to turn the dish round4 ,when the whole has set1 squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs1 and a little grated nutmeg may be added4 ,the eggs and toast should be served in the same dish in which they are baked4 ,,eggs1 ,,buttered4--,break some eggs into a flat dish1 then take a little butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it frizzles and begins to turn brown4 ,now pour this very hot butter1 which is hotter than boiling water1 over the eggs in the dish4 ,put the dish in the oven a short time1 and finish off setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander4 ,,eggs1 ,,scrambled4--,scrambled eggs1 when finished properly1 should have the appearance of yellow and white streaks1 distinct in colour1 but yet all joined together in one mass4 ,melt a little butter in the frying-pan1 break in some eggs1 as if for frying2 of course1 the whites begin to set before the yolks4 ,as soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set1 stir the whole together till the whole mass sets4 ,by this means you will get yellow and white streaks joined together4 ,it is very important that you don't let the eggs get brown at the bottom2 you will therefore require a perfectly clean frying-pan and not too fierce a fire4 ,,eggs ,,in ,,sunshine4--,this is a name given to fried eggs with tomato served on the top4 ,you want a dish that will stand the heat2 consequently1 take an oval baking-tin1 or enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up stove4 ,melt a little butter in this1 and as soon as it begins to frizzle break some eggs into the dish1 and let them all set together4 ,as soon as they are set1 pour four or five tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve on the top2 this is much better than tomato sauce1 which contains vinegar4 ,or you can bake half a dozen ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven1 and place these on the top instead of the tomato conserve4 ,,eggs ,,and ,,cucumber4--,peel and slice up two or three little cucumbers of the size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each4 ,put these with two or three ounces of butter in a stew-pan1 and three small onions about the size of the top of the thumb1 chopped very fine2 fry these and add a dessertspoonful of vinegar4 ,when the cucumber is tender1 and a little time has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate1 add six hard-boiled eggs1 cut into slices2 make these very hot and serve4 ,pepper and salt must be added4 ,,eggs ,,with ,,cheese4--,take a quarter of a pound of grated cheese 7the cheese should be dry and white71 melt this cheese gently in a stew-pan over the fire1 with a little bit of butter about as big as the thumb1 in order to assist the cheese in melting4 ,mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 two or three tiny spring onions1 chopped very fine1 and about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg4 ,when the cheese is melted1 add six beaten-up eggs1 and stir the whole together till they are set4 ,fried or toasted bread should be served round the edge of the dish4 ,,little ,,eggs ,,for ,,garnishing4--,this is a nice dish when you require a lot of white of eggs for other purposes1 such as iceing a wedding-cake1 or making light vanilla or almond biscuits4 ,take six hard-boiled yolks1 powder them1 flavour with a little pepper and salt1 and mix in three raw yolks2 mix this well together1 and roll them into shapes like very small sausages1 pointed at each end like a foreign cigar4 ,flour these on the outside1 and throw them into boiling water4 ,these can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast majority of vegetarian dishes4 ,they can be flavoured if wished with grated nutmeg1 chopped parsley1 and a few savoury herbs4 ,,omelets4--,it is a strange fact1 but not the less true1 that to get a well-made omelet in a private house in this country is the exception and not the rule4 ,a few general remarks on making omelets will1 we hope1 not be out of place in writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery1 in which omelets should play a most important part4 ,first of all1 we require an omelet-pan1 and for this purpose the cheaper the frying-pan the better4 ,the best omelet-pan of all is a copper one1 tinned inside4 ,copper conveys heat quicker than almost any other metal2 consequently1 if we use an ordinary frying-pan1 the thinner it is the quicker will heat be conveyed4 ,it is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely clean1 and it will be found almost essential to reserve the omelet-pan for omelets only4 ,a frying-pan that has cooked meat should not be used for the purpose2 and although in vegetarian cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this manner1 we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables1 or even black butter has been made4 ,the inside of an omelet-pan should always look as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop4 ,the next great question is1 how much butter should be allowed for1 say1 six eggs8 ,on this point the greatest authorities differ4 ,we will first quote our authorities1 and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles the difference4 ,a plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter4 ,one of the oldest cookery books we can call to mind is entitled ,the ,experienced ,english ,housekeeper1 by ,elizabeth ,raffald4 ,the book1 which was published in #agge1 is dedicated to the ,hon4 ,lady ,elizabeth ,warburton1 whom the authoress formerly served4 as housekeeper4 ,the recipe is entitled ,to make an amulet4 ,the book states1 ,put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan1 break six eggs2 ,francatelli also gives four ounces of butter to six eggs4 ,on the other hand1 ,soyer1 the great cook1 gives two ounces of butter to six eggs2 so also does the equally great ,louis ,eustache ,ude1 cook to ,louis ,,xvi4 ,we may add that ,cassell's ,dictionary of ,cookery recommended two ounces of butter to six eggs1 whilst ,cassell's ,shilling ,cookery recommends four eggs4 ,the probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as ,soyer and ,francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would use less butter than in making another4 ,francatelli wrote for what may be described as that high class cooking suited for ,pall ,mall clubs1 where no one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a wealthy epicure4 ,soyer's book was written for the people4 ,there are two kinds of omelets1 one in which the egg is scarcely beaten at all1 and in which1 when cooked1 the egg appears set in long streaks4 ,there is also the richer omelet1 which is sent to table more resembling a light pudding4 ,for the former of these omelets1 two ounces of butter will suffice for six eggs2 for the latter of these you will require four ounces of butter1 or else the omelet will be leathery4 ,in ,holland1 ,belgium1 and ,germany1 and in country villages in ,france1 the omelet is made1 as a rule1 with six eggs to two ounces of butter4 ,it comes up like eggs that have been set4 ,in the higher-class restaurants in ,paris1 like ,bignon's1 or the ,cafe ,anglais1 the omelet is lighter1 and probably about four ounces of butter would be used to six eggs4 ,this probably explains the different directions given in various cookery books for making omelets4 ,,omelet1 ,,plain4--,melt four ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 heat up six eggs till they froth2 add a little pepper and salt1 pour the beaten-up eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the butter begins to frizzle1 and with a tablespoon keep scraping the bottom of the frying-pan in every part1 not forgetting the edge4 ,gradually the mixture becomes lumpy2 still go on scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest liquid4 ,now slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan from the fire1 and push the omelet into half the frying-pan so that it is in the shape of a semicircle4 ,by this time1 probably1 it will be nearly set4 ,take the frying-pan off the fire1 and hold it in a slanting direction in front of the fire4 ,when the whole is set1 as it will quickly do1 slide off the omelet from the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice1 and serve4 ,,omelet1 ,,plain 7,,another ,,way74--,put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan1 break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper and salt1 and beat them very slightly1 so that the yolks and whites are quite mixed into one1 but do not beat them more than you can help1 and do not let the eggs froth4 ,as soon as the butter frizzles1 pour in the beaten eggs1 scrape the frying-pan quickly with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy4 ,now slacken the heat if the fire is fierce1 and let the mixture set in the frying-pan like a pancake4 ,as soon as it is nearly set1 with perhaps only a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset1 turn the omelet over1 one half on to the other half1 in the shape of a semicircle1 and bring the spoonful of unset fluid to join them over the edge4 ,slide off the omelet on to a hot dish with an egg-slice4 ,,omelet ,,with ,,fine ,,herbs4--,chop up a dessertspoonful of parsley1 and add a good pinch of powdered savoury herbs1 add these with pepper and salt to the six beaten-up eggs in a basin4 ,beat up the eggs1 either slightly or very thoroughly1 according to whether you use two ounces of butter or four4 ,proceed in every respect1 in making the omelet1 as directed for plain omelet above4 ,,omelet ,,with ,,onion4--,proceed exactly as in the above recipe1 only adding to the chopped parsley a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint1 also very finely chopped4 ,when onion is used in making an omelet a little extra pepper should be added4 ,,omelet ,,with ,,cheese4--,proceed as if making an ordinary omelet1 with four ounces of butter4 ,add to the six well beaten-up eggs about four ounces of grated ,parmesan cheese2 a small quantity of cream will be found a great improvement to this omelet4 ,a little pepper and salt must1 of course1 be added as well4 ,,potato ,,omelet4--,mix three ounces of a floury potato with six eggs1 a little pepper and salt1 and half a pint of milk1 and make the milk boil and then stand for a couple of minutes before it is mixed with the eggs2 pour this mixture into three or four ounces of butter1 and proceed as in making an ordinary omelet4 ,,potato ,,omelet1 ,,sweet4--,proceed exactly as above1 only instead of adding pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful of finely powdered sugar1 the juice of a lemon1 with half a grated nutmeg4 ,,cheese ,,souffle4--,to make a small cheese souffle in a round cake-tin1 proceed as follows3--,make the tin very hot in the oven4 ,put in about an ounce of butter1 so as to make the tin oily in every part inside4 ,the tin must be tilted so that the butter pours round the sides of the tin as well as the bottom4 ,take two eggs1 separate the yolks from the whites1 and beat the whites to a stiff froth2 beat up the two yolks very thoroughly with a quarter of a pint of milk4 ,add to this two tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese2 add this mixture to the beaten-up whites1 and mix the whole carefully together4 ,now pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin1 which should be five or six inches deep1 and bake it in the oven4 ,the mixture will rise to five or six times its original depth4 ,as soon as it is done1 run with the souffle from the oven door to the dining-room door4 ,however quick you may be1 the souffle will probably sink an inch on the way4 ,some cooks wrap hot flannel on the outside of the tin to keep up the heat4 ,if you have a folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance sake1 as is usually the case1 fold the napkin before you make the souffle1 and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be dropped over the tin in an instant4 ,the napkin should be pinned1 and be quite half an inch in diameter bigger than the width of the tin4 ,this is to save time4 ,delay in serving the souffle is fatal4 ,,omelet ,,souffle1 ,,sweet4--,in making an omelet souffle1 sweet1 you can proceed in exactly the same manner as making a cheese souffle1 with the exception that you add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar instead of two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese4 ,the omelet will1 however1 require flavouring of some kind1 the two most delicate being vanilla and orange-flower water4 ,you can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon1 and then pounding this with the powdered sugar4 ,it must be pounded very thoroughly and mixed very carefully1 or else one part of the omelet will taste stronger of lemon than the other4 ,some powdered sugar should be shaken over the top of the souffle just before serving4 ,,omelet ,,souffle 7,,another ,,way74--,when a souffle is made on a larger scale1 and served up on a flat dish1 it is best to proceed as follows3--,take six ounces of powdered sugar1 and mix them with six yolks of eggs and a dessertspoonful of flour and a pinch of salt4 ,to this must be added whatever flavouring is used1 such as vanilla4 ,this is all mixed together till it is perfectly smooth4 ,next beat the six whites to a very stiff froth2 mix this in with the batter lightly1 put two ounces of butter into an omelet-pan1 and as soon as the butter begins to frizzle pour in the mixture4 ,as it begins to set round the edges1 turn it over and heap it up in the middle1 and then slide the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking dish1 which must be well buttered4 ,put it in the oven for about a quarter of an hour1 to let it rise1 shake some powdered sugar over the top1 and serve very quickly4 ,,omelet1 ,,sweet4--,make an ordinary plain omelet with six eggs and either two or four ounces of butter1 as directed for making omelet1 plain4 ,instead of adding pepper and salt to the beaten-up eggs1 add one or two tablespoonfuls of finely powdered sugar4 ,at the last moment1 sprinkle a little powdered sugar over the omelet1 and just glaze the sugar with a red-hot salamander4 ,,omelet ,,with ,,jam4--,make a plain sweet omelet as directed above1 adding rather less sugar--about half4 ,if you make the omelet with two ounces of butter1 and turn it over1 put a couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the omelet1 and turn the half over the jam4 ,it is best to put the jam in the oven for a minute or two to take the chill off4 ,if you make the omelet with four ounces of butter1 you must put the jam by the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it4 ,of course1 the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter of taste4 ,most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best1 and if the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla1 the result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to table4 ,strawberry jam1 especially if some of the strawberries are whole1 is also very nice4 ,the objection to raspberry jam is the pips4 ,a most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of pine-apple1 and placing this in the omelet1 and making the pine-apple syrup hot and pouring it round the base4 ,red-currant jelly1 black-currant jam1 and plum jam can all be used4 ,one of the cheapest and1 in the opinion of many1 the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs1 two ounces of butter1 and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade4 ,in this case it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange1 and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the omelet4 ,if the marmalade is liquid1 as it often is1 one or two tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet4 ,,omelet ,,au ,,rhum4--,as a rule1 spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery4 ,an omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet1 plain1 with plenty of powdered sugar sprinkled over the top1 with some rum ignited poured over it just before it is sent to table4 ,the way to ignite the rum is to fill a large spoon1 like a gravy-spoon1 and hold a lighted wooden taper 7not wax2 it tastes7 underneath the spoon till the rum lights4 ,the dish should be hot4 ,it may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate1 and there is nothing left but the flavour4 ,,omelet ,,au ,,kirsch4--,proceed as above1 substituting ,kirschenwasser for ,rum4 ,,omelet1 ,,vegetable4--,a plain omelet can also be served with any puree of vegetables1 so that we can have--,asparagus ,omelet1 ,artichoke ,omelet1 ,french ,bean ,omelet1 ,celery ,omelet1 ,spinach ,omelet1 ,mushroom ,omelet1 ,tomato ,omelet1 c4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,salads ,,and ,,sandwiches4 ,,salads ,,and ,,sandwiches4--,probably the most patriotic ,englishman will admit that1 on the subject of salads1 we can learn something from the ,french4 ,during the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this point in this country4 ,many years ago it was the fashion to dress an ,english lettuce1 resembling in shape an old umbrella1 with a mixture of brown sugar1 milk1 mustard1 and even anchovy and ,worcester sauce1 and then add a few drops of oil1 as if it were some dangerous poison1 like prussic acid1 not to be tampered with lightly4 ,the old-fashioned lettuces were so hard and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a noise somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach4 ,in modern days1 however1 we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which1 as a rule1 we use soft ,french lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster1 seasoned with about half a pint of vinegar1 and then slept none the worse for the performance4 ,the first point for consideration1 if we wish to have a good salad1 is to have the lettuces crisp and dry4 ,old-fashioned ,french cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed4 ,the stalks should be cut off1 the outside leaves removed and thrown away1 and the lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers1 and each piece wiped with a clean cloth4 ,this is not always practicable1 but the principle remains the same4 ,you can wash the lettuce leaves without bruising them4 ,you can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large clean cloth1 and you can spread them out and let them get dry an hour or two before they are dressed4 ,another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten4 ,if by chance you put by the remains of a dressed salad1 it is good for nothing the next morning4 ,finally1 the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality1 and to ensure this it should bear the name of some well-known firm4 ,a good deal of the oil sold simply as salad oil1 bearing no name1 is adulterated1 sometimes with cotton-seed oil4 ,,salad1 ,,french ,,lettuce1 ,,plain4--,clean one or more ,french lettuces 7throw away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised71 place these in a salad-bowl1 and1 supposing we have sufficient for two persons1 dress the salad as follows3--,put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper into a tablespoon4 ,fill the tablespoon up with oil1 stir the pepper and salt up with a fork1 and pour it over the lettuce4 ,now add another tablespoonful of oil1 and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together with a spoon and fork4 ,allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person4 ,this salad would suffice for two4 ,be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well together before you add any vinegar4 ,the reason of this is that if you add the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves1 making one part more acid than another4 ,having well mixed up the lettuce and oil1 add half a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,mix it once more1 and the salad is dressed4 ,in ,france they always add to the lettuce1 before it is dressed1 two or three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves4 ,dried tarragon can be used1 but it is not equal to fresh4 ,if you have no tarragon it is a great improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar4 ,tarragon vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle4 ,it is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic1 or rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic1 and toss this piece of crust up with the salad after it has been dressed4 ,garlic should never be chopped up1 but only used as stated above4 ,a good ,french salad is also always decorated with one or more hard-boiled eggs1 cut into quarters1 longways4 ,these are placed on the top of the lettuce4 ,,salad1 ,,english1 ,,lettuce4--,the ordinary ,english salad is made either with ,french or ,english lettuces1 and is generally dressed as follows3--,one or two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 pepper1 and salt4 ,there are many people still living in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of dressing4 ,,salad1 ,,english1 ,,mixed4--,the old-fashioned ,english mixed salad generally consisted of ,english lettuce cut up into strips crossways1 to which was added mustard and cress1 boiled beetroot1 chopped celery1 spring onions1 radishes1 and watercress4 ,it is by no means a bad mixture when dressed with oil1 and1 of course1 it can be dressed it a l',anglaise4 ,it makes an excellent accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese1 a crusty loaf1 a good appetite1 and a better digestion4 ,,salad1 ,,mayonnaise4--,this is generally considered the king of salads1 and it can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish1 ,take two or more ,french lettuces1 clean and dry them as directed above1 and take the small heart of one lettuce about the size of a small walnut1 uncut from the stalk1 so that you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad1 raised above the surface4 ,arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the top of the salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface4 ,make some ,mayonnaise sauce1 thick enough to be spread like butter1 and mask this little mound and all the surface of the middle of the salad round it with a thin layer of the sauce1 so that it looks like the top of a mould of solid custard4 ,ornament the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters1 and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and stoned olives4 ,take a small teaspoonful of ,french capers1 dry them on a cloth1 and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface4 ,next chop up1 very finely1 about half a teaspoonful of parsley1 and see that this doesn't stick together in lumps4 ,place this on the end of a knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on the white surface4 ,next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled bread1 and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal4 ,this will colour them a bright red1 and they will have all the appearance of lobster-coral4 ,place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and let them fall over the white surface like the parsley4 ,the little red and green specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty4 ,before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,,tomato ,,salad4--,for making tomato salad you require red1 ripe tomatoes2 the smoother they are the better1 but the chief points are--very ripe and very red4 ,never use those pink1 crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk stained with plum juice4 ,if tomatoes are picked unripe1 and then allowed to ripen afterwards1 they become rotten and worthless4 ,slice up half a dozen or more tomatoes--sometimes it will be necessary to remove the core and pips1 sometimes not2 add a little oil1 a little vinegar1 and some pepper and salt4 ,tomato salad is one of the few that are very nice without any oil at all4 ,of course1 this is a matter of taste4 ,some persons slice up a few onions and add to the tomatoes4 ,in addition to this you can add some slices of cold potatoes4 ,in this latter case1 heap the potatoes up in the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome sprinkle some chopped parsley over the potatoes1 put a border of sliced onion round the base1 and then a border of sliced tomato outside that4 ,this makes the dish look pretty4 ,many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of garlic4 ,this is quite sufficient to flavour the salad2 but never chop garlic for salads4 ,,egg ,,salad4--,egg salad consists of an ordinary salad made with ,french lettuces1 with an extra quantity of hard-boiled eggs4 ,if you want to make the salad look very pretty on the top1 cut up the lettuces and dress them with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way4 ,make the tops of the lettuces 7which should be placed in a round salad-bowl7 as smooth as you can without pressing them down unnecessarily4 ,now take six hard-boiled eggs1 separate the yolks from the whites1 powder the yolks1 and chop up the whites small4 ,sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl1 say an inch in width1 then put a ring of white round1 and place the remainder of yolk in the middle1 almost up to the centre4 ,have the centre about two inches in diameter4 ,we now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim 7as1 of course1 there is more white than yellow71 and an outside yellow ring1 which meets the white china bowl4 ,reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of finely chopped white1 and put them in a saucer1 with a few drops of cochineal1 and shake them4 ,this turns them a bright red4 ,sprinkle these red specks very sparingly on the white1 and take about half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley1 and sprinkle these green specks on the yellow4 ,this makes the dish look pretty4 ,,german ,,salad4--,german salad is made from cold boiled vegetables chopped up4 ,in ,germany1 it is made1 according to ,english ideas1 from every vegetable you have ever heard of1 mixed with a number of vegetables you have never heard of4 ,in ,england it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot1 turnip1 cabbage1 cauliflower1 potato1 ,french beans1 ,brussels sprouts 7whole71 celery1 raw onion1 raw apple1 c4 ,in fact1 in making this vegetable salad the motto should be the more the merrier4 ,in addition to this you will find that they add what is known as sauer kraut4 ,this latter is not adapted1 as a rule1 to ,english palates4 ,the salad is mixed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way1 the ,germans adding much more vinegar than we should care for in this country4 ,the salad is decorated at the finish with boiled beet-root4 ,it is very pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles1 the base of the triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl1 the point of the triangle pointing inwards4 ,gut a star out of a good slice of beet-root1 and place it in the centre of the bowl2 sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed vegetables4 ,,endive ,,salad4--,endives come into season long before lettuces1 and are much used abroad for making salads4 ,the drawback to endive is that it is tough1 and the simple remedy is to boil it4 ,take three or four white-heart endives1 throw them into boiling water slightly salted4 ,when they get tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold water1 by which means you preserve their colour4 ,when quite cold1 take them out again1 drain them1 dry them thoroughly1 and pull them to pieces with the fingers4 ,now place them in a salad-bowl1 keeping the whitest part as much as possible at the top4 ,place some hard-boiled eggs round the edge1 and sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive4 ,you can1 if you like1 put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of eggs4 ,it is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic1 or you can rub a crust of bread with a bead of garlic1 and toss this lightly about in the salad when you mix it4 ,,salsify ,,salad4--,boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad4 ,take some white salsify1 scrape it1 and instantly throw it into vinegar and water1 by which means you will keep it a pure white4 ,then1 when you have all ready1 throw it into boiling water1 slightly salted1 boil it till it is tender1 throw it into cold water1 and when cold take it out1 drain it and dry it1 cut it up into small half-inch pieces 7or put it in whole1 in sticks1 into a salad-bowl71 sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the top1 dress in the ordinary way with oil and white ,french vinegar1 and be sure to use white pepper1 not black1 if white wine vinegar is objected to1 the juice of a hard fresh lemon is equally good1 if not better4 ,,potato ,,salad4--,potato salad is generally made from the remains of cold boiled potatoes4 ,of course1 potatoes can be boiled on purpose1 in which case they should be allowed to get cold in the water in which they were boiled4 ,new potatoes are far better for the purpose than old4 ,cut the potatoes into slices1 and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely chopped blanched parsley4 ,you can also add some finely chopped onion or shallot4 ,if you do not add these you can rub the bowl with a bead of garlic4 ,sprinkle some more chopped parsley over the top of the salad and ornament the edge of the bowl with some thin slices of pickled gherkins4 ,a few stoned olives can also be added4 ,dress the salad with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way4 ,,asparagus ,,salad4--,cold asparagus makes a most delicious salad4 ,it is needless1 perhaps1 to say it is made from cold boiled asparagus4 ,the best dressing for asparagus salad is somewhat peculiar1 and is made as follows3--,take1 say1 an ounce of butter1 put it in a saucer1 and melt it in the oven till it is like oil4 ,now mix in a teaspoonful of made mustard1 some pepper1 salt1 and a dessertspoonful of vinegar4 ,stir it all together1 and as it gets cold it will begin to get thick4 ,dip all the green part of the asparagus in this1 and lay the heads gently1 without breaking them1 in a vegetable dish1 with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish1 and the green part in the middle4 ,let the salad get perfectly cold1 and then serve4 ,of course1 the sauce clings to the asparagus4 ,the asparagus is eaten with the fingers like hot asparagus--a custom now generally recognised4 ,,artichoke ,,salad4--,this applies to ,french artichokes1 not ,jerusalem4 ,in ,france1 artichokes are often served raw for breakfast1 on a plate1 with a little heap of chopped raw onion and another heap of chopped capers or parsley4 ,the ,frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate1 adding the onion1 c41 according to his taste4 ,the leaves are pulled off one by one1 the white stalk part dipped in this dressing1 and then eaten1 by being drawn through the teeth4 ,the artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish as a bon bouche1 something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry round a jam tart1 leaving the centre for the finale4 ,,beet-,,root ,,salad4--,in boiling beet-roots be careful not to break them1 or else they will bleed and lose their colour4 ,when the beet-root is boiled and cold1 peel it1 and cut it into thin slices4 ,it can be dressed with oil and vinegar1 or vinegar only1 adding pepper and salt4 ,some persons dress beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead of oil2 but never use cream and oil4 ,to mix cream and oil is like mixing bacon with butter4 ,,cucumber ,,salad4--,peel a cucumber and cut it into slices as thin as possible4 ,we might almost add1 thinner if possible4 ,mix it with a little salt1 and let it stand1 tossing the cucumber about every now and then4 ,by this means you extract all the water from the cucumber4 ,drain off this water1 and add plenty of oil to the cucumber1 and then mix it so that every slice comes in contact with the oil4 ,now add a little pepper1 and a very little vinegar1 and mix it thoroughly4 ,if you add vinegar to cucumber before the oil some of the slices will taste like sour pickle1 as the vinegar soaks into the cucumber4 ,cucumber should be always served very cold1 and is best placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving4 ,some people put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber4 ,,french ,,bean ,,salad4--,cold boiled ,french beans make a very nice salad4 ,a little chopped parsley should be mixed with them1 and the salad-bowl can be rubbed with a bead of garlic4 ,some people soak the beans in vinegar first1 and then add oil4 ,this would suit a ,german palate4 ,a better plan is to add the oil first1 with pepper and salt1 mix all well together1 and then add the vinegar4 ,,bean ,,salad4--,cold boiled broad beans make a very nice salad4 ,rub off the skins so that only the green part is put in the salad-bowl4 ,rub the bowl with garlic1 add a little chopped parsley1 then oil1 pepper and salt1 mix well1 and add vinegar last of all4 ,,haricot ,,bean ,,salad4--,this can be made from cold1 boiled1 dried white haricot beans4 ,add plenty of chopped parsley1 rub the bowl with garlic1 mix oil1 pepper and salt first1 vinegar afterwards4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green beans met with abroad4 ,they can be obtained in this country in tins1 and a delicious salad can be had at a moment's notice by opening a tin1 straining off the liquor1 and drying the little green beans1 which are very soft and tender1 and dressing them with oil and vinegar1 in the ordinary way4 ,a little chopped parsley1 or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl1 can be added or not1 according to taste4 ,,celery ,,and ,,beet-,,root ,,salad4--,a mixture of celery and beet-root makes a very nice winter salad4 ,the beet-root1 of course1 is boiled1 and the celery generally sliced up thin in a raw state4 ,it is a great improvement to boil the celery till it is nearly tender4 ,by this means you improve the salad1 and the celery assists in making vegetarian stock4 ,,water-,,cress4--,water-cress is sometimes mixed with other salad1 but when eaten alone requires no dressing1 but only a little salt4 ,,dandelion ,,leaf ,,salad4--,considering that the root of the dandelion is so largely used in medicine for making taraxacum1 it is to be regretted that the leaves of the plant are not utilised in this country as they are abroad for making salad4 ,these leaves can be obtained in ,london at a few shops in the ,french colony of ,soho4 ,the leaves are washed1 dried1 placed in a salad-bowl1 and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way4 ,,cauliflower ,,salad4--,the remains of a cold boiled cauliflower makes a very good salad if only the white part be used4 ,it can be mixed with remains of cold potatoes1 some chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the top1 and it can be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way2 or it can be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to that described for dressing cold asparagus4 ,,mustard ,,and ,,cress4--,this is somewhat similar to watercress4 ,when served alone it is generally dipped in salt and eaten with bread-and-butter1 but it is very useful to mix with other kinds of salad4 ,,hop ,,salad4--,in ,germany a very nice salad is made from young hops1 which are grown very extensively in ,america and ,germany1 as ,english brewers are well aware4 ,the hops are picked when quite young1 before they get leafy2 they are then boiled till nearly tender4 ,they can be dressed in the ,english fashion with oil and vinegar1 or in the ,german fashion with vinegar and sugar4 ,,onion ,,salad4--,few people are aware of what an excellent salad can be made from the remains of cold boiled ,spanish onions4 ,spanish onions can generally be bought at a penny a pound4 ,they are mild in flavour1 very wholesome1 and contain a great deal of nourishment4 ,take a couple of cold boiled ,spanish onions1 pull them into leaves after they are quite dry1 and dress them with a very little oil and vinegar4 ,,italian ,,salad4--,this is a very delicious salad1 met with in ,italy4 ,it consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables1 which are placed in a mould and served in aspic jelly4 ,this latter1 however1 is not allowed in vegetarian cookery4 ,a very good imitation1 however1 can be made as follows3--,first take as many cold vegetables as you can1 consisting of new potatoes1 sliced1 and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes4 ,you can also take green peas1 asparagus tops1 cold boiled cauliflower1 ,french beans1 beet-root1 c4 ,these vegetables should be dressed with a little oil1 tarragon vinegar1 pepper and salt1 and can be placed in a mould or plain round basin4 ,this basin can now be filled up with a little water thickened with corn-flour1 hot4 ,when it is cold1 it can be turned out and sent to table in the shape of a mould4 ,,melon ,,salad4--,melon is sometimes served abroad as a salad1 and a slice of melon is often sent to table at the commencement of dinner1 to be eaten with a little salt1 cayenne pepper1 and sometimes oil and vinegar4 ,,salads1 ,,sweet4--,apples1 oranges1 currants1 pine-apple1 and bananas are sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar4 ,they make a very nice mixture1 or can be served separately4 ,when preserved pine-apples in tins are used for the purpose1 the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing the salad4 ,whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement1 as also a wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice4 ,,sandwiches4--,there is an art in cutting sandwiches--a fact which persons in the habit of frequenting railway restaurants will hardly realise4 ,a tinned loaf is best for the purpose if we wish to avoid waste4 ,the great thing is to have the two slices of bread to fit together neatly1 and there is no occasion to cut off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf4 ,first cut off the crust from the top of the loaf1 which1 of course1 must be used for some other purpose4 ,the best use for this top slice is to toast it lightly on the crumby side1 and cut it up into little pieces to be served with soup4 ,next take the loaf1 cut off one thin slice1 evenly1 and let it fall on its back on the board you are using4 ,now butter very slightly the upper surface4 ,next butter the top of the loaf1 cut another thin slice1 and1 of course1 these two pieces of bread will be perfectly level1 and1 if the two buttered sides be placed together1 will fit round the edge exactly4 ,,tomato ,,sandwiches4--,cut some very ripe red tomatoes into thin slices1 and cut them parallel with the core1 as otherwise you will get them in rings from which the core will drop out4 ,sprinkle some thin slices of bread-and-butter with mustard and cress1 dip the slices of tomato into a dressing made with a little oil1 pepper1 and salt1 well mixed up4 ,put these between the bread-and-butter1 and cut them into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife4 ,these sandwiches are very cool and refreshing1 and make a most agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room4 ,if you wish to have them look pretty1 pile them up in the centre of a silver dish1 and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base on some bright green parsley4 ,place the dish in an ice-chest for an hour before it is eaten4 ,,mustard ,,and ,,cress ,,sandwiches4--,place well-washed and dried mustard and cress between two slices of bread-and-butter1 and trim the edges4 ,it is best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter first4 ,pile up the sandwiches on a silver dish1 and sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base4 ,,egg ,,sandwiches4--,cut some hard-boiled eggs into very thin slices2 season them with pepper and salt1 and place them between two slices of thin bread-and-butter2 cut the sandwiches into triangles or squares1 pile them up in a silver dish1 place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of the dish1 and place some hard-boiled eggs1 cut in halves1 on the parsley1 which will show what the sandwiches are composed of4 ,,indian ,,sandwiches4--,these are exactly similar to the above1 with the addition that the slices of hard-boiled eggs are seasoned with a little curry-powder4 ,if hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of the dish1 each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to show what the sandwiches are4 ,,mushroom ,,sandwiches4--,take a pint of fresh button mushrooms1 peel them1 and throw them into lemon-juice and water1 in order to preserve their colour2 or else take the contents of a tin of mushrooms1 chop them up and stew them in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter1 pepper1 salt1 a pinch of thyme1 and the juice of a whole lemon to every pint of mushrooms4 ,when tender1 rub the mixture through a wise sieve while the butter is warm and the mixture moist4 ,add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley1 spread this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread1 and cover it over with another thin slice of bread1 and press the two slices of bread together4 ,when the mixture gets quite cold1 the butter will set and the sandwiches get quite firm4 ,the bread need not be buttered1 as the mixture contains butter enough4 ,pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish1 surround the dish with plenty of fresh parsley1 and place a few fresh mushrooms whole1 stalk and all1 round them1 as if they are growing out of the parsley4 ,,cheese ,,sandwiches4--,oil a little butter1 add some pepper and salt1 and a spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper4 ,when this mixture is nearly cold1 use it for buttering some thin slices of bread1 and1 before it is quite cold1 sprinkle them with some grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,put the two slices of bread together and press them1 and1 when cold14 cut them into squares or triangles4 ,place plenty of fresh green parsley round the dish1 and1 if you are using hard-boiled eggs for other purposes1 take the end of the white of egg1 which has a little cup in it not much bigger than the top of the finger1 and put a little heap of ,parmesan cheese in each cup4 ,place a few of these round the base of the dish1 on the parsley1 in order to show what the sandwiches are composed of4 ,,cream-,,cheese ,,sandwiches4--,chop up some of the white part of a head of celery very fine1 and pound it in a mortar with a little butter2 season it with some salt4 ,use this mixture and butter some thin slices of bread1 place a thin slice of cream cheese between these slices1 cut the sandwiches into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife1 and pile the sandwiches up on a silver dish4 ,surround the dish with parsley1 and place a few slices of cream-cheese1 cut round the size of a halfpenny1 round the base1 stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves of the heart of celery in each piece4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,savoury ,,dishes4 ,,mushrooms4 ,in many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their cost may be considered almost nothing4 ,on the other hand1 if they have to be bought fresh1 at certain seasons of the year they are very expensive1 while tinned mushrooms1 which can always be depended upon1 cannot be regarded in any other light than that of a luxury4 ,when mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries they are a great boon to vegetarians4 ,of course1 great care must be taken that only genuine mushrooms are picked1 as there have been some terrible instances of poisoning from fungi being gathered by mistake1 as many ,cockney tourists know to their cost4 ,as a rule1 in ,england all mushrooms bought in markets can be depended upon4 ,in ,france1 where mushrooms are very plentiful1 an inspector is appointed in every market1 and no mushrooms are allowed to be sold unless they have first received his sanction4 ,this is a wise precaution in the right direction4 ,one important word of warning before leaving the subject4 ,mushrooms should be eaten freshly gathered1 and1 if allowed to get stale1 those which were perfectly wholesome when fresh picked become absolutely poisonous4 ,the symptoms are somewhat similar to narcotic poisoning4 ,this particularly applies to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice4 ,,mushrooms1 ,,plain1 ,,grilled4--,the larger kinds of mushrooms are best for the purpose4 ,the flat mushrooms should be washed1 dried1 and peeled4 ,they are then cooked slowly over a clear fire1 and a small wire gridiron1 like those sold at a penny or twopence each1 is better adapted for the purpose than the ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak4 ,the gridiron should be kept high above the fire4 ,the mushrooms should be dipped in oil1 or oiled butter1 and care should be taken that they do not stick to the bars4 ,they should be served very hot1 with pepper and salt and a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,,mushrooms1 ,,fried4--,when mushrooms are very small they are more easily fried than grilled4 ,they should be washed1 dried and peeled1 placed in a frying-pan1 with a little butter1 pepper and salt1 and cooked till tender4 ,they are very nice served on toast1 and the butter in which they are cooked can be poured on the toast first1 and the mushrooms arranged on the top afterwards4 ,a squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement4 ,,mushrooms ,,au ,,gratin4--,this is a very delicious dish1 and is often served as an entree at first-class dinners4 ,they are made from what are known as cup mushrooms4 ,it is best to pick mushrooms1 as far as possible1 the same size1 the cup being about two inches in diameter4 ,peel the mushrooms very carefully1 without breaking them1 cut out the stalks close down with a spoon1 scoop out the inside of the cup1 so as to make it hollow4 ,now peel the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom1 with1 supposing we are making ten cups1 a piece of onion as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint4 ,to this add a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 or even a little more1 a saltspoonful of dried thyme1 or half this quantity of fresh thyme4 ,fry all this in a frying-pan1 in a little butter4 ,the aroma is delicious4 ,then add sufficient dried bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole into a moist paste1 fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top is as convex as the cup of the mushroom1 having first seasoned the mixture with a little pepper1 salt1 and lemon-juice4 ,shake some fine bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown colour1 pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin1 place the mushrooms in it1 and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom becomes soft and tender1 but take care they do not cook till they break4 ,now take them out carefully with an egg-slice1 and place them on a dish--a silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice1 crisp1 fried parsley round the edge4 ,,mushrooms ,a ,,la ,,bordelaise4--,this1 as the name implies1 is a ,french recipe4 ,it consists of ordinary grilled mushrooms1 served in a sauce composed of oil or oiled butter1 chopped up with parsley and garlic1 thickened with the yolks of eggs4 ,,mushrooms ,a ,,la ,,provencale4--,this is an ,italian recipe4 ,you must first wash1 peel1 and dry the mushrooms1 and then soak them for some time in what is called a marinade1 which is another word for pickle1 of oil mixed with chopped garlic1 pepper1 and salt4 ,they are then stewed in oil with plenty of chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire4 ,squeeze1 a little lemon-juice over them and serve them in a dish surrounded with a little fried or toasted bread4 ,,mushroom ,,forcemeat4--,the mushrooms after being cleaned should be chopped up and fried in a little butter2 lemon-juice should be added before they are chopped in order to preserve their colour4 ,one or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs can be added to the mixture1 and the whole rubbed through a wire sieve while hot4 ,when the mixture is hot it should be moist1 but1 of course1 when it gets cold1 owing to the butter it will be hard4 ,this mushroom forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes4 ,,mushroom ,,pie4--,wash1 dry1 and peel some mushrooms1 and cut them into slices with an equal quantity of cut-up potatoes4 ,bake these in a pie1 having first moistened the potatoes and mushrooms in a little butter4 ,add pepper and salt and a small pinch of thyme4 ,cover them with a little water and put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way4 ,it is a great improvement1 after the pie is baked1 to pour in some essence of mushrooms made from stewing the stalks and peelings in a little water4 ,a single onion should be put in with them4 ,,mushroom ,,pie1 ,,cold4--,prepare the mushrooms1 potatoes1 and essence of mushroom as directed above1 adding a little chopped parsley4 ,bake all these in the dish before you cover with paste1 add also an extra seasoning of pepper4 ,when the mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender1 strain off all the juice or gravy1 and thicken it with corn-flour2 put this back in the pie-dish and mix all well together1 and pile it up in the middle of the dish so that the centre is raised above the edge4 ,let this get quite cold1 then cover it with puff-paste1 and as soon as the pastry is done take it out of the oven and let the pie get cold4 ,this can now be cut in slices4 ,,mushroom ,,pudding4--,make a mixture of mushrooms1 potatoes1 c41 exactly similar to that for making a pie4 ,place this in a basin with only sufficient water to moisten the ingredients1 cover the basin with bread-crumbs soaked in milk1 and steam the basin in the ordinary way4 ,,tomatoes1 ,,grilled4--,what is necessary is a clear fire and a gridiron in which the bars are not too far apart4 ,the disputed point is1 should the tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half8 ,this may be considered a matter of taste1 but personally we prefer them grilled whole4 ,moisten the tomato in a little oil or oiled butter1 and grill them carefully1 as they are apt to break4 ,grilled tomatoes are very nice with plain boiled macaroni1 or can be served up on boiled rice4 ,,tomatoes1 ,,baked4--,place the tomatoes in a tin with a little butter1 and occasionally baste them with the butter4 ,when they are tender1 they can be served either plain or with boiled macaroni or rice4 ,the butter and juice in the tin should be poured over them4 ,,tomatoes1 ,,fried4--,place the tomatoes in a frying-pan with a little butter1 and fry them until they are tender4 ,pour the contents of the frying-pan over them1 serve plain1 or with macaroni or rice4 ,,tomatoes1 ,,stewed4--,take half a dozen good-sized tomatoes1 and chop up very finely one onion about the same size as the tomatoes4 ,moisten the bottom of a stew-pan with a little butter1 and sprinkle the chopped onion over the tomatoes4 ,add a dessertspoonful of water2 place the lid on the stewpan1 which ought to fit tightly4 ,it is best to put a weight on the lid of the stew-pan1 such as a flat-iron4 ,place the stew-pan on the fire1 and let them steam till they are tender4 ,they are cooked this way in ,spain and ,portugal1 and very often chopped garlic is used instead of onion4 ,,tomatoes ,,au ,,gratin4--,take a dozen ripe tomatoes1 cut off the stalks1 and squeeze out time juice and pips4 ,next take a few mushrooms and make a mixture exactly similar to that which was used to fill the inside of ,mushrooms au gratin4 ,fill each tomato with some of this mixture1 so that it assumes its original shape and tight skin4 ,the top or hole where the stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or halfpenny4 ,shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot without letting them fall on the red tomato4 ,in order to do this1 cut a round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper4 ,place the tomatoes in a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven1 moistened with a little oil4 ,the oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep4 ,stew or bake the tomatoes till they are tender1 and then take them out carefully with an egg-slice1 and serve them surrounded with fried parsley4 ,if placed in a silver dish this has a very pretty appearance4 ,,tomato ,,pie4--,slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes and potatoes4 ,place them in a pie-dish with enough oiled butter to moisten them4 ,add a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 a pinch of thyme1 pepper1 and salts and1 if possible1 a few peeled mushrooms1 which will be found to be a very great improvement4 ,cover the pie with paste1 and bake in the oven4 ,,tomato ,,pie 7,,another ,,way74--,proceed as in making an ordinary potato pie4 ,add a small bottle of tomato conserve1 cover with paste1 and bake in the ordinary way4 ,,potato ,,pie4--,peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as possible4 ,at the same time slice up some onions4 ,if ,spanish onions are used allow equal quantities of potatoes and onions1 but if ordinary onions are used allow only half this quantity4 ,place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato alternately4 ,add some pepper1 salt1 and sufficient butter to moisten the potato and butter before any water is added4 ,pour in some water and add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 cover the pie with paste1 and bake in the ordinary way4 ,,potato ,,pie 7,,another ,,way74--,butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly4 ,line the edges with a good crust1 and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes seasoned with pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg4 ,lay over them some small lumps of butter1 hard-boiled eggs1 blanched almonds1 sliced dates1 sliced lemon and candied peel4 ,cover the dish with pastry and bake the pie in a well-heated oven for half an hour or more1 according to the size of the pie4 ,,pumpkin ,,pie4--,peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind or skin1 halve it1 and take out the seed and fluffy part in the centre1 which throw away4 ,cut the pumpkin into small1 thin slices1 fill a pie-dish therewith1 add to it half a teaspoonful of allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar1 with a small quantity of water4 ,cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary way4 ,pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with ,devonshire cream and sugar4 ,an equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still more delicious pie4 ,,pumpkin ,,pudding4--,take a large pumpkin1 pare it1 and remove the seeds4 ,cut half of it into thin slices1 and boil these gently in water until they are quite soft1 then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon4 ,measure the pulp1 and with each pint put four ounces of butter and a large nutmeg1 grated4 ,stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two1 then add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs4 ,pour the pudding into a buttered dish1 and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour4 ,sugar may be added to taste4 ,,potato ,,cheesecake4--7,see ,,cheesecakes47 ,,cheese ,,with ,,fried ,,bread4--,take some stale bread1 and cut it into strips about three inches long and one wide and one inch thick4 ,fry the bread in some butter or oil till it is a nice bright golden colour4 ,spread a layer of made mustard over the strips of fried bread1 and then cover them with grated ,parmesan cheese1 pile them up on a dish1 and place them in the oven4 ,as soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot4 ,,cheese1 ,,savoury4--,take equal quantities of grated ,parmesan cheese1 butter1 and flour2 add a little salt and cayenne pepper1 make these into a paste with some water1 roll out the paste thin till it is about a quarter of an inch thick2 cut it into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a nice brown1 and serve hot4 ,,cheese ,,souffle4--7,see ,,omelets47 ,,cheese ,,pudding4--,mix half a pound of grated ,parmesan cheese with four eggs1 well beaten up2 mix in also two ounces of butter1 which should be first beaten to a cream1 add half a pint of milk and pour the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish1 sprinkle some grated ,parmesan cheese over the top1 and bake in the oven for about half an hour4 ,the pudding will be lighter if two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth4 ,the edge of the pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste4 ,,cheese ,,ramequins4--,put half a pound of grated ,parmesan cheese in a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pint of water2 add a little pepper and salt1 and as much flour as will make the whole into a thick paste4 ,mix up with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will make the paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape4 ,the eggs should be beaten till they froth4 ,now1 with a tablespoon1 mould this mixture into shapes like a meringue or egg2 place these on a buttered tin and bake them till they are a nice brown colour4 ,,cheese1 ,,stewed4--,when the remains of cheese have got very dry it is a good plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese4 ,break up the cheese and put it in a small stew-pan with about a quarter its weight of butter2 add a little milk1 and let the cheese stew gently till it is dissolved4 ,at the finish1 and when you have removed it from the fire1 add a well-beaten-up egg4 ,this can be served on toast1 or it can be poured on to a dish and pieces of toasted bread stuck in it4 ,,cheese ,,straws4--,mix equal quantities of grated ,parmesan cheese1 grated bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve1 butter1 and flour2 add a little cayenne and grated nutmeg4 ,make it into a thick paste1 roll it out very thin1 cut it into strips1 and bake for a few minutes in a fierce oven4 ,,cheese1 ,,toasted4--,this is best done in a ,dutch oven1 so that when one side is toasted you can turn the oven and toast the back2 as soon as the cheese begins to melt it is done4 ,as it gets cold very quickly1 and when cold gets hard1 it is best served on hot-water plates4 ,,cheese1 ,,devilled4--,chop up some hot pickles1 add some cayenne pepper and mustard4 ,melt some cheese in a stew-pan with a little butter1 mix in the pickles1 and serve on toast4 ,,welsh ,,rarebit4--,toast a large slice of bread2 in the meantime melt some cheese in the saucepan with a little butter4 ,when the cheese is melted it will be found that a good deal of oiled butter floats on the top4 ,pour this over the dry toast first1 and then pour the melted cheese afterwards4 ,some persons add a teaspoonful of ,worcester sauce to the cheese1 and others a tablespoonful of good old ,burton ale over the top4 ,,ayoli4--,this is a dish almost peculiar to the ,south of ,france4 ,soak some crusts of bread in water1 squeeze them dry1 and add two cloves of garlic chopped fine1 six blanched almonds1 also chopped very fine1 and a yolk of an egg2 mix up the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil4 ,,pumpkin ,a ,,la ,,parmesane4--,cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and boil them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water1 and take them out1 drain them1 and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter1 salt1 and grated nutmeg2 fry them1 sprinkle them with a little ,parmesan cheese1 and bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to melt1 and then serve4 ,this is an ,italian recipe4 ,,zucchetti ,,farcis4--,take some very small gourds or pumpkins1 boil them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water1 and then fill them with a forcemeat made as follows3 ,take some crumb of bread and soak it in milk1 squeeze it and add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw yolks2 chop up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves2 add two ounces of grated ,parmesan cheese1 and a little salt and grated nutmeg4 ,stew these gourds in butter and serve them with white sauce4 ,,stuffed ,,onions 7,,italian ,,fashion74--,parboil some large onions1 stamp out the core after they have been allowed to get quite cold in a little water2 fill the inside with forcemeat similar to the above2 fry then71 squeeze the juice of a lemon over them1 with a little pepper4 ,,polenta4--,polenta is made from ground ,indian corn1 and is seen in ,italian shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder2 it is made into a paste with boiling water1 sprinkled with ,parmesan cheese1 and baked in the oven4 ,,piroski ,,sernikis4--,this dish is met with in ,poland1 and is made by mixing up two pounds of cream-cheese1 three-quarters of a pound of fine bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve1 six eggs well beaten up2 add a little cream or milk1 four ounces of washed grocer's currants1 one ounce of sugar1 half a grated nutmeg2 and when the whole is thoroughly mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole into a paste that can be rolled into balls4 ,these balls should not be much bigger than a walnut4 ,flour them1 and then flatten them into little cakes and fry them a nice brown in some butter4 ,of course1 a smaller quantity can be made by using these ingredients in proportion4 ,,nalesnikis 7,,polish ,,pancakes74--,take eight eggs and beat them up very thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk1 or still better1 cream1 two ounces of butter that has been oiled1 half a grated nutmeg1 and about a dozen lumps of sugar that have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon2 mix in sufficient flour--about three-quarters of a pound will be required--to make the whole into a very smooth batter4 ,melt a little butter in a frying-pan1 pour it all over the pan1 and when it frizzles1 pour in some of the batter1 and sprinkle over a few currants2 when the pancake is fried1 shake some powdered sugar over it1 roll it up like an ordinary pancake1 and serve hot4 ,,fritters4 ,,batter ,,for ,,savoury ,,fritters4--,put six ounces of flour into a basin1 with a pinch of salt1 the yolk of one egg1 and a quarter of a pint of warm water4 ,work this round and round with a wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth and looks like thick cream4 ,about half an hour before the batter is wanted for use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it lightly in4 ,,mushroom ,,fritters4--,make some mushroom forcemeat2 let it get quite cold on a dish about a quarter of an inch thick4 ,cut out some small rounds1 about the size of a penny-piece4 ,they fry better if slightly oval4 ,have ready some thick batter 7,see ,,batter74 ,have also ready in a saucepan some boiling oil1 which should be heated to about #cej degrees4 ,place a frying-basket in the saucepan1 flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as to make them perfectly dry on the outside4 ,dip these pieces into the batter and throw them into the boiling oil4 ,the great heat of the oil will set the batter before the mushroom force-meat has time to melt4 ,directly the batter is a nice light-brown colour1 lift them out of the boiling oil with the frying-basket1 and throw them on to a cloth to drain4 ,break off the outside pieces of batter1 and serve the fritters on a neatly folded napkin on a dish surrounded by fried parsley4 ,the beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the inside is moist1 owing1 of course1 to the heat having melted the forcemeat4 ,,tomato ,,fritters4--,make some mushroom forcemeat and spread it out as thin as possible4 ,take some ripe tomatoes1 cut them in slices1 dip the slice in vinegar1 drain it and pepper it1 and then wrap this thin slice of tomato in a layer of mushroom forcemeat4 ,bring the edges together1 flour it1 dip it into batter 7see ,,batter71 and throw it into boiling oil as in making mushroom fritters 7see ,,mushroom ,,fritters74 ,,imitation ,,game ,,fritters4--,make some mushroom force-meat as directed under the heading ,mushroom ,forcemeat1 with the addition of1 when you fry the mushrooms1 chop up and fry with them two heads of garlic1 and add a saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs4 7,these1 are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of ,herbaceous ,mixture47 ,then proceed exactly as if you were making mushroom fritters 7see ,,mushroom ,,fritters74 ,,hominy ,,fritters4--,these are made from remains of cold boiled hominy1 cut in thin slices1 which must be dipped in batter and fried in boiling oil4 ,,cheese ,,fritters4--,pound some dry cheese1 or take about three ounces of ,parmesan cheese1 and mix it with a few bread-crumbs1 a piece of butter1 a pinch of cayenne pepper1 and the yolk of an egg1 till the whole becomes a thick paste4 ,roll the mixture into very small balls1 flatten them1 flour them1 dip them into batter1 and throw them into boiling oil in the ordinary way4 ,put them in the oven for five minutes before serving them4 ,,sage ,,and ,,onion ,,fritters4--,make some ordinary sage and onion stuffing1 allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to each parboiled onion2 add pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs4 ,now moisten the whole with clarified butter1 till the mixture becomes a moist pulp4 ,when it begins to get cold and sets1 roll it into small balls1 the size of a very small walnut1 flatten these and let them get quite cold1 then flour them1 dip them into batter1 and throw them into boiling oil2 remove them with the frying-basket1 and serve with fried parsley4 ,,spinach ,,fritters4--,make a little thick puree of spinach1 add a pinch of savoury herbs containing marjoram2 mix in a little clarified butter and one or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside of a lemon1 as well as a little grated nutmeg4 ,roll the mixture into very small ball2 or else they will break1 flatten them1 flour them1 dip them into batter1 and throw them into boiling oil1 and serve immediately4 ,,fritters1 ,,sweet4--,in making sweet fritters1 the same kind of batter will do as we used for making savoury fritters1 though many cooks add a little powdered sugar4 ,the same principles hold good4 ,the oil must be heated to a temperature of #cej degrees1 and a frying-basket must be used4 ,instead of flouring the substances employed to make them dry1 before being dipped into the batter1 which is an essential point in making fritters1 we must use finely powdered sugar1 and it will be found a saving of both time and trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose4 ,it is sold by grocers under the name of castor sugar4 ,we cannot make this at home in a pestle and mortar to the same degree of fineness any more than we could grind our own flour4 ,we cannot compete with machinery4 ,,apple ,,fritters4--,peel some apples1 cut them in slices across the core1 and stamp out the core4 ,it is customary1 where wine1 c41 is not objected to1 to soak these rings of apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy1 grated lemon or orange peel and sugar1 or better still1 to rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this in the brandy4 ,of course1 brandy is not necessary1 but the custom is worth mentioning4 ,the rings of apple can be soaked for some time in syrup flavoured this way4 ,they must then be made dry by being dipped in powdered sugar1 then dipped into batter and thrown1 one at a time1 into a saucepan containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has been placed4 ,directly the fritters are a nice brown1 take them out1 break off the rough pieces1 shake some finely powdered sugar over them1 pile them up on a dish1 and serve4 ,,apricot ,,fritters4--,these can be made from fresh apricots or tinned ones1 not too ripe2 if they break they are not fitted4 ,when made from fresh apricots they should be peeled1 cut in halves1 the round end removed1 dipped in powdered sugar1 then dipped in batter1 thrown into boiling oil1 and finished like apple fritters4 ,some persons soak the apricots in brandy4 ,,banana ,,fritters4--,banana fritters can be made from the bananas as sold in this country1 and it is a mistake to think that when they are black outside they are bad4 ,when in this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a penny4 ,peel the bananas1 cut them into slices half an inch thick1 dip them into finely powdered sugar and then into batter1 and finish as directed in apple fritters4 ,some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino4 ,,custard ,,fritters4--,take half a pint of cream in which some cinnamon and lemon have been boiled1 add to this five yolks of eggs1 a little flour1 and about three ounces of sugar4 ,put this into a pie-dish1 well buttered1 and steam it till the custard becomes quite set2 then let it get cold1 and cut it into slices about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long1 sprinkle each piece with a little powdered cinnamon1 and make it quite dry with some powdered sugar4 ,then dip each piece into batter1 throw them one by one into boiling oil1 and finish as directed for apple fritters4 ,,almond ,,fritters1 ,,chocolate ,,fritters1 ,,coffee ,,fritters1 ,,vanilla ,,fritters1 c4--,these fritters are made exactly in the same way as custard fritters1 only substituting powdered chocolate1 pounded almonds1 essence of coffee1 or essence of vanilla1 for the powdered cinnamon4 ,,frangipane ,,fritters4--,make a ,frangipane cream by mixing eggs with a little cold potato1 butter1 sugar1 and powdered ratafias1 the proportion being a quarter of a pound of butter1 four eggs1 six ounces of sugar1 one cold floury potato1 and a quarter of a pound of ratafias4 ,bake or steam this until it is set1 and proceed as in custard fritters4 ,many persons add the flavouring of a little rum4 ,,peach ,,fritters4--,these are made exactly similar to apricot fritters1 bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned peaches only the firm pieces1 and not pulpy ones1 must be used for the purpose4 ,proceed exactly as directed for apricot fritters4 ,if any liqueur is used1 noyeau is best adapted for the purpose4 ,,potato ,,fritters4--,mix up some floury potato with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a well-beaten-up egg1 and three ounces of sugar1 some of which has been rubbed on the outside of a lemon4 ,the addition of a little cream is a great improvement4 ,roll the mixture into small balls and flour them2 they are then fried just as they are1 without being dipped into batter4 ,,pine-,,apple ,,fritters4--,these can be made from fresh pine-apples or tinned4 ,they should be cut into slices like apple fritters if the pine-apple is small1 but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut into strips three inches long and one wide and half an inch thick4 ,these must be dipped in powdered sugar1 then into batter1 and finished as directed for apple fritters4 ,if any liqueur is used1 maraschino is best adapted to the purpose4 ,,orange ,,fritters4--,only first-class oranges are adapted for this purpose4 ,thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use4 ,peel a thin-skinned ripe orange1 divide each orange into about six pieces1 soak these in a syrup flavoured with sugar rubbed on the outside of an orange1 and if liqueur is used make the syrup with brandy4 ,after they have soaked some time1 remove any pips1 dip each piece into hatter1 and proceed as directed for apple fritters4 ,,cream ,,fritters4--,rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange1 pound them1 and mix with a little cream2 take some small pieces of stale white cake1 such as ,madeira cake or what the ,french call brioche4 ,soak these pieces of stale cake1 which must be cut small and thin1 or they will break1 in the orange-flavoured cream1 dry each piece in some finely-powdered sugar1 dip it into batter1 and proceed as directed for making apple fritters4 ,,german ,,fritters4--,take some small stale pieces of cake1 and soak them in a little milk or cream flavoured with essence of vanilla and sweetened with a little sugar4 ,take them out1 and let them get a little dry on the outside1 then dip them in a well-beaten-up egg1 cover them with bread-crumbs1 and fry a nice golden-brown colour4 ,,rice ,,and ,,ginger ,,fritters4--,boil a small quantity of rice in milk and add some preserved ginger chopped small1 some sugar1 and one or more eggs1 sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish4 ,bake till set1 then cut into slices about two inches long1 an inch wide1 and half an inch thick2 dry these pieces with powdered sugar1 dip into batter1 and finish as directed for making apple fritters4 ,,rice ,,fritters4--,a variety of fritters could be made from a small baked rice pudding1 flavoured with various kinds of essences1 spices1 orange marmalade1 peach marmalade1 fresh lime marmalade1 apricot jam1 c41 proceeding exactly as directed above4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,vegetables4 ,,substantial ,,vegetables4 ,vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes--those that may be called substantial and which are adapted to form a meal in themselves1 and those of a lighter kind1 which cannot be said to make a sufficient repast unless eaten with bread4 ,potatoes were first introduced into this country about #djj years ago1 tobacco being introduced about the same period1 and we cannot disguise the fact that there are many who regard the latter as the greater blessing of the two4 ,if ,sir ,henry ,thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the great ally of temperance1 there may be some ground for this opinion4 ,potatoes form an important article of food for the body1 while1 whatever effect tobacco may have upon the thinking powers of mankind1 it is almost the only product of the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of starvation4 ,in some parts1 especially in ,ireland1 potatoes form almost the only food of the population1 just as rice does in hotter climates1 and when the crop fails famine ensues4 ,when potatoes form the only kind of food1 a very large quantity has to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to receive sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy1 the amount required being not less than ten pounds per day4 ,if1 on the other hand1 a certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be mixed with them1 a far less quantity will suffice4 ,hence we find in ,ireland that1 wherever it is possible1 either some kind of oily fish1 such as herring1 is taken with them1 or1 which is much more to the point with vegetarians1 a certain quantity of fat is obtained in the shape of milk4 ,it must also be remembered that four pounds of raw potatoes contain only one pound of solid food1 the remaining three pounds being water4 ,it is important1 for those who first commence a vegetarian diet1 to remember that vegetables like peas1 haricot beans1 and lentils are far superior to potatoes so far as nourishment is concerned1 for many are apt to jump to the conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread and milk4 ,so1 too1 is oatmeal4 ,a ,scotchman requires a far less quantity of oatmeal to sustain life than an ,irishman does potatoes2 hence it is a very important point to remember that1 if we depend upon potatoes to any great extent for our daily food1 we should cook them in such a manner as to entail as little waste as possible4 ,we will now try and explain1 as briefly as possible1 the best method of serving4 ,,potatoes1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,the best method of having potatoes1 if we wish to study economy1 is to boil them in their jackets1 as it is generally admitted that the most nourishing part is that which lies nearest to the skin4 ,there are many houses in the country where an inexperienced cook will peel1 say four pounds of potatoes1 and throw the peel into the pig-tub1 where the pig gets a better meal than the family4 ,when potatoes are boiled in their skins1 they should be thoroughly washed and scrubbed with a hard brush4 ,old potatoes should be put into cold water1 and when the water boils the time should a good deal depend upon the size of the potatoes4 ,when the potatoes are large1 the chief principle to be borne in mind is1 do not let them boil too quickly or cook too quickly4 ,we must avoid having the outside pulpy while the inside is hard4 ,the water1 which should be slightly salted1 should more than cover them1 and1 if the potatoes are very large1 directly the water comes to the boil it is a good plan to throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil4 ,it is quite impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling potatoes4 ,we cannot do more than give general principles which can only be carried out by cooks who possess a little common sense4 ,small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction4 ,they should be thrown into boiling water1 and are generally cooked in about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour4 ,large old potatoes should be put into cold water and1 as we have stated1 the water should not be allowed to boil too soon1 and it will take very often an hour to boil them properly4 ,between these two extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which must be left to the judgment of the cook4 ,it is as impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast line with regard to time in boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what exact point in the thermometer between freezing and #hj degrees in the shade a man should put on his top coat4 ,if we may be allowed the expression1 old new potatoes should be thrown into neither boiling water nor cold water1 but lukewarm water4 ,again1 in boiling potatoes1 especially in the case of old ones1 some little allowance must be made for the time of year4 ,in winter1 they require longer time1 and we may here mention the fact that it is very important that potatoes1 after they are dug1 should not be left out of doors and exposed to a hard frost1 as in this case a chemical change takes place in which the starch is converted into sugar4 ,when potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently1 which fact is generally tested by sticking a steel fork into them1 they should be strained off1 and allowed to get dry for a few minutes in the saucepan1 which should be removed from the fire1 as at times the potatoes are apt to stick and burn4 ,when large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled1 we should endeavour to send them to table floury1 and this is often said to be the test of a really good cook4 ,after the water has been strained off from the potatoes1 a dry cloth should be placed under the lid of the saucepan1 and the lid should only be placed half on1 i4e41 it should not be fitted down tight4 ,it is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a shake1 but do not overdo the shaking and break them4 ,about five or ten minutes is generally sufficient4 ,,potatoes1 ,,steamed4--,potatoes can be steamed in their jackets1 and it is a more economical method than peeling4 ,it should be remembered1 however1 that steam is hotter than boiling water4 ,if plain water is underneath and boils furiously1 and the steam is well shut in1 they will cook very quickly2 but if1 as is generally the case1 something else is in the saucepan under the steamer1 boiling gently1 this does not apply4 ,we refer to the ordinary steamer met with in private houses1 and not to the ones used in the large hotels and restaurants4 ,,potatoes1 ,,baked4--,when potatoes are baked in the oven in their jackets the larger they are the better4 ,the oven must not be too fierce1 and ample time should be allowed4 ,baked potatoes require quite two hours4 ,this only refers to those baked in their jackets4 ,when potatoes are cut up and baked in a tin they require some kind of fat1 which1 of course1 in vegetarian cookery must be either oil or butter4 ,,potatoes1 ,,mashed4--,what may be termed high-class mashed potatoes are made by mashing up ordinary boiled potatoes with a little milk previously boiled1 a little butter1 and passing the whole through a wire sieve1 when a little cream1 butter and salt is added4 ,in private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from the remains of cold boiled potatoes1 or when the cook1 in boiling the potatoes1 has made a failure4 ,still1 of course1 potatoes are boiled often expressly for the purpose of being mashed4 ,this is often the case where old potatoes have to be cut into all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black spots4 ,as soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally moistened in the saucepan with a little drop of milk4 ,it is undoubtedly an improvement1 and also entails very little extra trouble1 to boil the milk first4 ,there is a difference in flavour1 which is very marked1 between milk that has been boiled and raw milk4 ,suppose you have coffee for breakfast1 add boiling milk to one cup and raw milk to another1 and then see how great a difference there will be in the flavour of the two4 ,a little butter should be added to mashed potatoes1 but it is not really essential4 ,mashed potatoes can be served in the shape of a mould1 that is1 they can be shaped in a mould and then browned in the oven4 ,if you serve mashed potatoes in an ordinary dish1 and pile them up in the shape of a dome1 the dish will look much prettier if you score it round with a fork and then place the dish in a fairly fierce even2 the edges will brown1 but be careful that they don't get burnt black4 ,,potatoes1 ,,fried4--,the best lesson1 if you wish to fry potatoes nicely1 is to look in at the window of a fried fish shop1 where every condition is fulfilled that is likely to lead to perfection4 ,the bath of oil is deep and smoking hot1 and in sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in temperature on the introduction of the frying-basket containing the potatoes4 ,the potatoes must be cut up into small pieces1 not much bigger in thickness than the little finger2 these are plunged into the smoking hot oil1 and as soon as they are slightly browned on the outside they are done4 ,they acquire a darker colour after they are removed from the oil1 and the inside will go on cooking for several minutes4 ,it would be quite impossible to eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat1 as they would burn the mouth terribly4 ,it is best to throw the fried potatoes into a cloth for a few seconds4 ,,potato ,,chips4--,potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes cut up when raw into little pieces about the size and thickness of a lucifer match4 ,they1 of course1 will cook very quickly4 ,they should be removed from the oil directly they begin to turn colour4 ,,potato ,,ribbon4--,potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried potatoes1 in which the raw potato is cut in the shape of a ribbon4 ,you take a potato and peel it in the ordinary way4 ,you then take this and1 with not too sharp a knife1 peel it like apple1 making the strip as long as you can1 like children sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their shoulders to see what letter it will make4 ,you can go on peeling the potato round and round till there is none left4 ,these ribbons are thrown into boiling oil1 and must be removed as soon as they begin to turn colour4 ,when piled up in a dish they look very pretty1 and with a little pepper and salt1 and a squeeze of lemon-juice1 make an excellent meal when eaten with bread4 ,,potato ,,saute4--,this dish is more frequently met with abroad than in ,england1 except in foreign restaurants4 ,it is made by taking the remains of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes that are not floury4 ,these are cut up into small pieces about the size of the thumb1 no particular shape being necessary4 ,they are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter1 and fried gently till the edges begin to brown2 they are served with chopped parsley and pepper and salt4 ,the butter should be poured over the potatoes1 and supplies the fatty element which potato lacks4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel4--,these are very similar to potato saute1 the difference being that they are not browned at the edges4 ,small kidney potatoes are best for the purpose4 ,these must be boiled till tender1 and the potatoes then cut into slices4 ,these must be warmed up with a spoonful or two of white sauce 7see ,,white ,,sauce71 to which is added some chopped parsley and a little lemon-juice4 ,a more common way is to boil the potatoes1 slice them up while hot1 and then toss them about in a vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called ,maitre d'hotel butter4 ,this is simply a lump of plain cold butter1 mixed with chopped parsley1 till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and butter4 ,when tossed about squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and serve4 ,,potatoes1 ,,new4--,new potatoes should be washed and the skin1 if necessary1 rubbed off with the fingers2 they should be thrown into boiling water1 slightly salted1 and as a rule require from fifteen to five-and-twenty minutes to boil before they are done4 ,during the last few minutes throw in one or two sprigs of fresh mint1 drain them off and let there dry1 and then place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little piece of butter1 in which the potatoes should be boiled to give them a shiny appearance outside4 ,new potatoes can also be served with a little white sauce to which has been added a little chopped parsley4 ,,potato ,,balls4--,mash some boiled potatoes with a little butter1 pepper1 salt1 chopped parsley1 chopped onion1 or still better1 shallot1 and add a few savoury herbs4 ,mix up one or two or more well-beaten eggs1 according to the quantity of potato1 roll the mixture into balls1 flour them1 and fry them a nice brown colour1 and serve4 ,,potato ,,croquettes ,,or ,,cutlets4--,these are very similar to potato balls1 only they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured4 ,the potatoes are boiled and mashed1 and1 if the croquettes are wished to be very good1 one or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs should be mixed with them4 ,the mixture is slightly flavoured with shallot1 savoury herbs or thyme1 chopped parsley1 and a little nutmeg4 ,one or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added1 the mixture then rolled into small balls no bigger than a walnut4 ,these are then dipped in well-beaten-up egg1 and then bread-crumbed4 ,the balls are fried a nice golden-brown colour and served4 ,potato cutlets are exactly the same1 only instead of shaping the mixture into a little ball1 the ball is flattened into the shape of a small oval cutlet4 ,these are then egged1 bread-crumbed1 and fried1 but before being sent to table a small piece of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to represent the bone of the cutlet4 ,these little cutlets1 placed on an ornamental sheet of white paper1 at the bottom of the silver dish1 look very pretty4 ,a small heap of fried parsley should be placed in the centre of the dish4 ,,potato ,,pie4--7,see ,,savoury ,,dishes1 p4 #aab47 ,,potato ,,cheesecake4--7,see ,,cheesecakes1 p4 #afi47 ,,potato ,,salads4--7,see ,,salads1 p4 #aja47 ,,potato1 ,,border ,,of4--,a very pretty dish can be made by making a border of mashed potatoes1 hollow in the centre1 in which can be placed various kinds of other vegetables1 such as haricot beans1 stewed peas1 c4 ,the mashed potato should be mixed with one or two well-beaten-up eggs1 and the outside of the border can be moulded by hand1 to make it look smooth and neat2 a piece of flexible tin1 flat1 will be found very useful1 or even a piece of cardboard4 ,if you wish to make the border ornamental1 you can proceed exactly as directed under the heading ,rice ,borders1 and if it is wished to make the dish particularly handsome1 it can be painted outside1 before being placed in the oven1 with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of hot water4 ,when this is done1 the potato border has an appearance similar in colour to the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie1 or vol au vent4 ,the inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can be filled with plain boiled macaroni mixed with ,parmesan cheese1 and ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few small baked red ripe tomatoes4 ,again1 it can be filled with white haricot beans piled up in the shape of a dome1 with some chopped parsley sprinkled over the top4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can be made to look more elegant4 ,,potato ,,biscuits 7,m4 ,ude's ,recipe74--,take fifteen fresh eggs1 break the yolks into one pan and the whites into another4 ,beat the yolks with a pound of sugar pounded very fine1 scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar1 dry that and pound it fine also2 then throw into it the yolks1 and work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour4 ,next whip the whites well and mix them with the yolks4 ,now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar4 ,have some paper cases ready1 which lay on a plafond with some paper underneath4 ,fill the cases1 but not too full2 glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar1 and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated4 ,,potato ,,bread4--,in making bread1 a portion of mashed potato is sometimes added to the flour1 and this addition improves the bread very much for some tastes2 it also keeps it from getting dry quite so soon4 ,at the same time it is not so nutritious as ordinary home-made bread4 ,boil the required quantity of potatoes in their skins1 drain and dry them1 then peel and weigh them4 ,pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from lumps1 and mix with them the flour in the proportion of seven pounds of flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes4 ,add the yeast and knead in the ordinary way1 but make up the bread with milk instead of water4 ,when the dough is well risen1 bake the bread in a gentle oven4 ,bake it a little longer than for ordinary bread1 and1 when it seems done enough1 let it stand a little while1 with the oven-door open1 before taking it out4 ,unless these precautions are taken1 the crust will be hard and brittle1 while the inside is still moist and doughy4 ,this recipe is from ,cassell's ,dictionary of ,cookery4 ,,potato ,,cake4--,take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake them in the oven till done1 then peel and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and grated lemon-peel2 set them upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh butter and stir the whole2 add a little cream and sugar1 still continuing to stir them2 then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower water1 eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites1 whisked into froth2 heat up the whole together and mix it with the potato puree4 ,butter a mould and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs2 pour in the paste1 place the pan upon hot cinders1 with fire upon the lid1 and let it remain for three-quarters of an hour1 or it may be baked in an oven4 ,,potato ,,cheese4--,potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in ,germany2 they can be made of various qualities1 but care must be taken that they are not too rich and have not too much heat1 or they will burst4 ,boil the potatoes till they are soft1 but the skin must not be broken4 ,the potatoes must be large and of the best quality4 ,when boiled1 carefully peel them and beat them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle4 ,to make the commonest cheese1 put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with one pound of milk and rennet2 add a sufficient quantity of salt1 together with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour4 ,knead all these ingredients well together1 cover up and allow them to stand three or four days in winter1 two to three in summer4 ,at the end of that time knead them again1 put the paste into wicker moulds1 and leave the cheeses to drain until they are quite dry4 ,when dry and firm1 lay them on a board and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate warmth2 should the heat be too great1 as we have said1 they will burst4 ,when1 in spite of all precautions1 such accidents occur1 the crevices of the burst cheeses are1 in ,germany1 filled with curds and cream mixed1 some being also put over the whole surface of the cheese1 which is then dried again4 ,as soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard1 place them in barrels with green chickweed between each cheese2 let them stand for about three weeks1 when they will be fit for use4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,barigoule4--,peel some potatoes and boil them in a little water with some oil1 pepper1 salt1 onions1 and savoury herbs4 ,boil them slowly1 so that they can absorb the liquor2 when they are done1 brown them in a stew-pan in a little oil1 and serve them to be eaten with oil and vinegar1 pepper and salt4 ,,potatoes1 ,,broiled4--,potatoes are served this way sometimes in ,italy4 ,they are first boiled in their skins1 but not too long4 ,they are then taken out and peeled1 cut into thin slices1 placed on a gridiron1 and grilled till they are crisp4 ,a little oil is poured over them when they are served4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,lyonnaise4--,first boil and then peel and slice some potatoes4 ,make some rather thin puree of onion4 7,see ,,sauce ,,soubise47 ,pour this over the potatoes and serve4 ,another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and then serve them with the onion sauce1 with the addition of a little vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,provencale4--,put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan1 or three tablespoonfuls of oil1 three beads of garlic1 the peel of a quarter of a lemon1 and some parsley1 all chopped up very fine2 add a little grated nutmeg1 pepper and salt4 ,peel some small potatoes and let them stew till they are tender in this mixture4 ,large potatoes can be used for the purpose1 only they must be cut tip into pieces4 ,add the juice of a lemon before serving4 ,,haricot ,,beans4--,it is very much to be regretted that haricot beans are not more used in this country4 ,there are hundreds of thousands of families who at the end of a year would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try haricot beaus1 not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat1 but as an article of diet in themselves4 ,the immense benefit derived in innumerable cases from a diet of beans is one of the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of vegetarianism4 ,meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of their food1 and yet wonder that they suffer in health4 ,it is not an uncommon thing for a man to consult his doctor and to tell him1 ,i live very simply1 nothing but plain roast or boiled4 ,medical men are all agreed on one point1 and that is that haricot beans rank almost first among vegetables as a nourishing article of diet4 ,in writing on this subject1 ,sir ,henry ,thompson observes1 ,let me recall1 at the close of these few hints about the haricot1 the fact that there is no product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious1 holding its own1 in this respect1 as it well can1 even against the beef and mutton of the animal kingdom4 ,this is a very strong statement1 coming as it does from so high an authority1 and vegetarians would do well to hear it in mind when discussing the subject of vegetarianism with those who differ from them4 ,sir ,henry proceeds as follows3--,the haricot ranks just above lentils1 which have been so much praised of late1 and rightly1 the haricot being to most palates more agreeable4 ,by most stomachs1 too1 haricots are more easily digested than meat is2 and1 consuming weight for weight1 the eater feels lighter and less oppressed1 as a rule1 after the leguminous dish1 while the comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter4 ,to boil haricot beans proceed as follows4 ,we refer1 of course1 to the dried white haricot beans1 the best of which are those known as ,soissons4 ,the beans should be soaked in cold water overnight1 and in the morning any that may be found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away4 ,suppose the quantity be a quart2 place these in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water1 slightly salted4 ,as soon as time water conies to the boil1 move it so that the beans will only simmer gently2 they must then continue simmering till they are tender4 ,this generally takes about three hours1 and if the water is hard1 it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda4 ,this is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat1 such as a leg of mutton a la ,bretonne1 where the beans are served in some rich brown gravy containing fat4 ,in vegetarian cookery1 of course1 we must proceed entirely differently1 and there are various ways in which this nourishing dish can be served1 as savoury and as appetising1 and indeed more so1 than if we had assistance from the slaughter-house4 ,we will now proceed to give a few instances4 ,in the first place1 it will greatly assist the flavour of the beans if we boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs4 ,supposing1 however1 we have them boiled plain4 ,take a large dry crust of bread and rub the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic4 ,place this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained off1 and toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking the beans4 ,remove the crust and moisten the beans while hot with a lump of butter1 add a brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley2 squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole1 and serve4 ,instead of butter we can add1 as they always do in ,italy1 two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil4 ,those who have conquered the unreasonable ,english prejudice against the use of oil will probably find this superior to butter4 ,if the beans are served in the form of a puree1 it is always best to boil a few onions with them and rub the onions through the wire sieve with the beans1 taking care that the quantity of onion is not so large that it destroys and overpowers the delicate and delicious flavour of the beans themselves4 ,next1 we would call attention to the importance of not throwing away the water in which the beans were boiled4 ,this water contains far more nourishment than people are aware of1 and throughout the length and breadth of ,france1 where economy is far more understood than in this country1 it is invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup1 and as our soup will1 of course1 be vegetarian1 the advantage gained is simply incalculable4 ,,flageolets4--,these are haricot beans in the fresh green state1 and are rarely met with in this country1 though they form a standing dish abroad4 ,they are exceedingly nice1 and can be cooked in a little butter like the ,french cook green peas4 ,they are often flavoured with garlic1 and chopped parsley can be added to them4 ,those who are fond of this vegetable in the fresh state can obtain them in tins from any high-class grocer1 as the leading firms in this country keep them in this form for export4 ,,peas1 ,,dried4--,dried peas1 like dried beans1 contain a very great amount of nourishment4 ,indeed1 in this respect1 practically1 dried beans1 dried peas1 and lentils may be considered equal4 ,dried peas are met with in two forms--the split yellow pea and those that are dried whole1 green4 ,split peas are chiefly used in this country to make pea soup1 or puree of peas and peas pudding4 ,we have already given recipes for the two former1 and will now describe how to make-- ,,peas ,,pudding4--,soak a quart of peas in water overnight1 throwing away those in the morning that are found floating at the top4 ,drain them off and tie them up in a pudding-cloth1 taking care to leave plenty of room for the peas to swell2 put them into cold water1 and boil them till they are tender4 ,this will take from two to three hours4 ,when tender1 take them out1 untie the cloth1 and rub them through a colander1 or1 better still1 a wire sieve4 ,now mix in a couple of ounces of butter with some pepper and salt1 flour the cloth well and tie it up again and boil it for another hour1 when it can be turned out and served4 ,peas pudding when eaten alone is improved by mixing in1 at the same time as the butter1 a dessertspoonful of dried powdered mint1 also1 should you have the remains of any cold potatoes in the house1 it is a very good way of using them up4 ,a few savoury herbs can be used instead of mint4 ,,peas ,,brose4--,dr4 ,andrew1 in writing to the ,cyclopaedia of ,domestic ,medicine1 says1 ,in the ,west of ,scotland1 especially in ,glasgow1 'peas brose1' as it is called1 is made of the fine flour of the white pea1 by forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a little salt4 ,it is a favourite dish with not only the working classes1 but it is even esteemed by many of the gentry4 ,it was introduced into fashion chiefly by the recommendation of ,dr4 ,cleghorn1 late ,professor of ,chemistry in ,glasgow ,university4 ,the peas brose is eaten with milk or butter1 and is a sweet1 nourishing article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit and for children4 ,,peas1 ,,dried ,,whole1 ,,green4--,this is perhaps the best form with which we meet peas dried4 ,when the best quality is selected1 and care taken in their preparation1 they are quite equal to fresh green peas when they are old4 ,indeed1 many persons prefer them4 ,soak the peas overnight1 throwing away those that float at the top2 put them into cold water1 and when they boil let the peas simmer gently till they are tender4 ,the time varies very much with the quality and the size of the peas1 old ones requiring nearly three hours1 others considerably less4 ,when the peas are tender1 throw in some sprigs1 if possible1 of fresh mint1 and after a minute strain them off2 add pepper1 salt1 and about two ounces of butter to a quart of peas--though this is not absolutely necessary--and nearly a dessertspoonful of white powdered sugar4 ,if you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly gathered ones1 after you strain them off you can mix them in a basin1 before you add the butter1 with a little piece of green vegetable colouring 7sold in bottles by all grocers74 ,the peas should then be put back in the saucepan for a few minutes to be made hot through1 and then finished as directed before4 ,,peas1 ,,dried1 ,,green1 ,,with ,,cream4--,boil the peas as before directed till they are quite tender1 then strain them off and put them in a stew-pan with one ounce of butter to every quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a little pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg4 ,add to each quart of peas a quarter of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar2 surround the dish with fried or toasted bread4 ,,lentils4--,lentils are1 comparatively speaking1 a novel form of food in this country1 though they have been used abroad for many years1 and a recipe for cooking them will be found in a well-known work1 published in ,paris in #ahdf1 entitled ,la ,cuisiniere de la ,campagne et de la ,ville2 ou1 ,nouvelle ,cuisine ,economique1 one of the most popular ,french cookery-books ever published1 and which in that year had reached a circulation of #hj1jjj copies4 ,recipes for boiled lentils and lentil soup are given in ,cassell's ,dictionary of ,cookery1 published in #ahge2 but it is stated in the introductory remarks that lentils are little used in ,england except as food for pigeons1 and adds1 ,they are seldom offered for sale4 ,since that date lentils have become an exceedingly popular form of food in many households1 and vegetarians generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms of food served at the table4 ,there are two kinds of lentils1 the ,german and ,egyptian4 ,the ,egyptian are red and much smaller than the ,german1 which are green4 ,the former kind are generally used on the ,continent1 in ,italy and the ,south of ,france1 while1 as the name implies1 the green lentils are more commonly used in ,eastern ,europe4 ,either kind1 however1 can be used for making soup and puree1 recipes of which have already been given1 as well as for the recipes in the present chapter4 ,,lentils1 ,,boiled4--,the lentils should be placed in soak overnight1 and those that float should be thrown away4 ,suppose we have half a pint of lentils1 they should be boiled in about a pint and a half of water4 ,boil them till they are tender1 which will take about half an hour1 then drain them off and put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little piece of butter1 squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon1 and serve hot4 ,some people make a little thickened sauce with yolks of eggs and a little butter and flour mixed with the water in which they are boiled4 ,,lentils1 ,,curried4--,lentils are very nice curried4 ,boil the lentils as directed above till they are tender4 ,when they are placed in a vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick curry sauce into it4 7,see ,,curry ,,sauce47 ,,lentils ,a ,,la ,,provencale4--,soak the lentils overnight and put them into a stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil1 a little butter1 some slices of onion1 some chopped parsley1 and a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs4 ,stew them in this till the lentils are tender1 and then thicken the sauce with yolks of eggs1 add a squeeze of lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,n4,b4--,haricot beans can be cooked in a similar manner4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,vegetables1 ,,fresh4 ,,artichokes1 ,,french1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,put the artichokes to soak in some well salted water1 upside down1 as otherwise it is impossible to get rid of the insects that are sometimes hidden in the leaves4 ,trim off the ends of the leaves and the stalk1 and all the hard leaves round the bottom should be pulled off4 ,put the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water sufficiently deep to nearly cover them4 ,the tips of the leaves are best left out2 add a little salt1 pepper1 and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the water in which they are boiled4 ,french cooks generally add a piece of butter4 ,boil them till they are tender4 ,the time depends upon the size1 but you can always tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf4 ,if it comes out easily the artichokes are done4 ,drain them off1 and remember in draining them to turn them upside down4 ,some kind of sauce is generally served with artichokes separately in a boat1 such as butter sauce1 sauce ,allemande1 or ,dutch sauce4 ,,artichokes1 ,,broiled4--,parboil the artichokes and take out the part known as the choke4 ,in the hollow place a little chopped parsley and light-coloured bread-raspings soaked in olive oil4 ,place the bottoms of the artichokes on a gridiron with narrow bars over a clear fire1 and serve them as soon a they are thoroughly hot through4 ,,artichokes1 ,,fried4--,the bottoms of artichokes after being boiled can be dipped in batter and fried4 ,,artichokes ,a ,,la ,,provencale4--,parboil the artichokes and remove the choke1 and put them in the oven in a tin with a little oil1 pepper and salt1 and three or four heads of garlic1 whole4 ,let them bake till they are tender1 turning them over in the oil occasionally2 then take out the garlic and serve them with the oil poured over them1 and add the juice of a lemon4 ,,artichokes1 ,,jerusalem1 ,,boiled1 ,,plain4--,the artichokes must be first washed and peeled1 and should be treated like potatoes in this respect4 ,they should be thrown into cold water immediately1 and it is best to add a little vinegar to the water4 ,if the artichokes are young1 throw them into boiling water1 and they will become tender in about a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes4 ,it is very important not to over-boil them1 as they turn a bad colour4 ,if any doubt exists as to the age of the artichokes1 they had better be tested with a fork4 ,immediately they are tender they should be drained and served4 ,old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes1 i4e41 put originally into cold water1 and when they come to the boiling point allowed to simmer till tender2 but these are best mashed4 ,when the artichokes have been drained1 they can1 of course1 be served quite plain1 but they are best sent to table with some kind of sauce poured over them1 such as ,allemande sauce1 ,dutch sauce1 white sauce1 or plain butter sauce4 ,they are greatly improved in appearance1 after a spoonful of sauce has been poured over each artichoke1 if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over them1 and a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by shaking them with a few drops of cochineal4 ,another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the artichokes together in a vegetable-dish1 and1 after pouring a little white sauce over each artichoke1 to place a fresh-boiled bright green ,brussels sprout between each4 ,the white and green contrast very prettily4 ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes1 ,,fried4--,peel and slice the artichokes very thin2 throw these slices into smoking hot oil in which a frying-basket has been placed4 ,as soon as the artichokes are of bright golden-brown colour1 lift out the frying-basket1 shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes1 and serve very hot4 ,they can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter and lemon-juice1 and form a sort of vegetarian whitebait4 ,,artichokes1 ,,mashed4--,these are best made from old artichokes4 ,they must be rubbed through a wire sieve1 and the strings left behind4 ,it is best to mash them up with a little butter1 and a spoonful or two of cream is a very great improvement4 ,,asparagus1 ,,boiled4--,cut the asparagus all the same length by bringing the green points together1 and then trimming the stalks level with a sharp knife4 ,throw the asparagus into boiling salted water4 ,time1 from fifteen to twenty-five minutes1 according to thickness4 ,serve on dry toast1 and send butter sauce to table separate in a tureen4 ,,beans1 ,,broad1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,broad beans1 if eaten whole1 should be quite young4 ,they should be thrown into boiling water1 salted4 ,they require about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender4 ,serve with parsley and butter sauce4 ,,broad ,,beans1 ,,mashed4--,when broad beans get old1 the only way to serve them is to have them mashed4 ,boil them1 and remove the skins1 then mash them up with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt1 and rub them through a wire sieve1 make them hot1 and serve4 ,you can if you like boil a few green onions and a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans1 and rub these through the wire sieve as well4 ,this dish is very cheap and very nourishing4 ,very young beans1 like very young peas1 are more nice than economical4 ,,beans ,a ,,la ,,poulette4--,boil some young beans till they are tender1 and put them into a saucepan with a little butter1 sugar1 pepper1 and salt1 and sufficient flour to prevent the butter cooking oily2 stew them in this a short time1 i4e41 till they appear to begin to boil1 as the water from the beans will mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter sauce thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs1 and serve4 ,,beans ,a ,,la ,,bourgeoise4--,place the beans in a saucepan1 with a piece of butter1 a small quantity of shallot chopped fine1 and a teaspoonful of savoury herbs2 toss them about in this a little time1 and then add a little water1 sufficient to moisten them so that they can stew2 add a little sugar1 and when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg4 ,,beans1 ,,french1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,french beans are only good when fresh gathered1 and the younger they are the better4 ,when small they can be boiled whole1 in which case they only require the tips cut off and the string that runs down the side removed4 ,when they are more fully grown they will require1 in addition to being trimmed in this manner1 to be cut into thin strips1 and when very old it will be found best to cut them slanting4 ,they must be thrown into boiling salted water1 and boiled till they are tender4 ,the time for boiling varies with the age2 very young ones will not take more than a quarter of an hour1 and if old ones are not tender in half an hour they had better be made into a puree4 ,as soon as the beans are tender1 drain them off1 and serve them very hot2 the chief point to bear in mind1 if we wish to have our beans nice1 is1 they must be eaten directly they are drained from the water in which they are boiled4 ,they are spoilt by what is called being kept hot1 and possess a marvellous facility of getting cold in a very short space of time4 ,in vegetarian cookery1 when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment to meat1 some form of fat is desirable4 ,when the beans are drained we can add either butter or oil4 ,when a lump of ,maitre d'hotel butter is added they form what the ,french call haricots vert a la ,maitre d'hotel4 ,in this case1 a slight suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the stew-pan in which the ,french beans are tossed together with the ,maitre d'hotel butter4 ,when oil is added1 a little chopped parsley will be found an improvement1 as well as pepper1 salt1 and a suspicion of nutmeg4 ,french beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic1 and served in a border of macaroni4 ,,french ,,bean ,,pudding4--,when ,french beans are very old they are sometimes made into a pudding as follows3--,they must be trimmed1 cut up1 boiled1 with or without the addition of a few savoury herbs4 ,they must be then mashed in a basin1 tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth1 and boiled for some time longer4 ,the pudding can then be turned out4 ,a still better way of making a ,french bean pudding is to rub the beans through the wire sieve1 leaving the strings behind1 flavouring the pudding with a few savoury herbs1 a little sugar1 pepper1 and salt1 and1 if liked1 a suspicion of garlic2 add one or two well-beaten-up eggs1 and put the mixture in a round pudding-basin1 and bake it till it sets4 ,this can be turned out on the centre of a dish1 and a few young ,french beans placed round the base to ornament it1 in conjunction with some pieces of fried bread cut into pretty shapes4 ,,brocoli4--,trim the outer leaves off a brocoli1 and cut off the stalk even1 so that it will stand upright4 ,soak the brocoli in salt and water for some time1 in order to get rid of any insects4 ,throw the brocoli into boiling water that has been salted1 and boil till it is tender1 the probable time for young brocoli being about a quarter of an hour4 ,it should be served on a dish with the flower part uppermost2 and butter sauce1 sauce ,allemande1 or ,dutch sauce can be served separately1 or poured over the surface4 ,when several heads of brocoli are served at once1 it is important to cut the stalks flat1 as directed1 before boiling4 ,after they have been thoroughly drained upside down1 they should be placed on the dish1 flower part uppermost1 and placed together as much as possible to look like one large brocoli4 ,if sauce is poured over them1 the sauce should be sufficiently thick to be spread1 and every part of the flower should be covered4 ,half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley may be sprinkled over the top1 and improves the appearance of the dish4 ,n4,b4--,we would particularly call attention to the importance of draining brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly1 especially when any sauce is served with the brocoli4 ,when the dish is cut into1 nothing looks more disagreeable than to see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green water at the bottom of the dish4 ,,brocoli ,,greens4--,the outside leaves of brocoli should not be thrown away1 but eaten4 ,too often they are trimmed off at the greengrocer's or at the market1 and1 we presume1 utilised for the purpose of feeding cattle4 ,they can be boiled exactly like white cabbages1 and are equal to them1 if not superior1 in flavour4 ,to boil them1 see ,,cabbage1 ,,white1 ,,large4 ,,brussels ,,sprouts4--,these must be first washed in cold water and all the little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away4 ,throw them into boiling salted water2 the water must be kept boiling the whole time1 without a lid on the saucepan1 and if the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to be taken off the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise4 ,in order to ensure this1 throw in the sprouts a few at a time1 picking out the big ones to throw in first4 ,sprouts1 as soon as they are tender--probable time a quarter of an hour--should be drained and served quickly4 ,when served as a dish by themselves1 after being drained off1 they can be placed in a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 salt1 nutmeg1 and lemon-juice4 ,they can then be served with toasted or fried bread4 ,,cabbage1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,ordinary young cabbages should be first trimmed by having the outside leaves removed1 the stalks cut off1 and then should be cut in halves and allowed to soak some time in salt and water4 ,they should be thrown into plenty of boiling water2 the water should be kept boiling and uncovered4 ,as soon as they are tender they should be strained off and served immediately4 ,young summer cabbages will not take longer than a quarter of an hour1 or even less2 old cabbages take nearly double that time4 ,it is impossible to lay down any exact rule with regard to time4 ,savoys generally take about half an hour4 ,the large white cabbages met with in the ,west of ,england take longer and require a different treatment4 ,when cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a great improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the cabbage after it is thoroughly drained off4 ,in order to ensure the butter not oiling1 but adhering to the cabbage1 it is best after the butter is added1 and while you mix it with the cabbage1 to shake the flour-dredger two or three times over the vegetable4 ,in ,germany1 many add vinegar and sugar to the cabbage4 ,,cabbage1 ,,large ,,white4--,in the ,west of ,england cabbages grow to an immense size1 owing1 probably1 to the moist heat1 and have been exhibited in agricultural shows over twenty pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen gallon cask4 ,these cabbages are best boiled as follows3--,after being cut up and thoroughly washed1 it will be found that the greater part of the cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called stalk1 and1 of course1 the leaves vary very considerably in thickness from the hard stalk end up to the leaf4 ,have plenty of boiling water ready salted1 now cut off the stalk part where it is thickest and throw this in first4 ,wait till the water comes to the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes4 ,then throw in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils1 and so on1 reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of all4 ,by this means1 and this only1 do we get the cabbage boiled uniformly4 ,had we thrown in all at once one of two things would be inevitable--either the stalk would be too hard to be eaten or the leafy part over-boiled4 ,a large white cabbage takes about an hour to boil tender1 and a piece of soda should be added to the water4 ,when the cabbage is well drained1 it can be served either plain or moistened1 and made to look oily by the addition of a piece of butter4 ,as the cabbage is very white1 the dish is very much improved by the addition of a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the top1 not for the sake of flavour but appearance4 ,,cabbage ,,and ,,cream4--,ordinary cabbages are sometimes served stewed with a little cream4 ,they should be first parboiled1 then the moisture squeezed from them1 and then they must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 salt and nutmeg1 and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily4 ,when the cabbage is stewed till it is perfectly tender1 add a few spoonfuls of cream1 stir up1 and make the whole thoroughly hot1 and serve with fried or toasted bread4 ,,cabbage1 ,,red4--,red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling4 ,they are sometimes served fresh4 ,they should be cut across so that the cabbage shreds1 boiled till they are tender1 the moisture thoroughly extracted1 and then put into a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt1 and a few shakes of flour from the flour-dredger4 ,after stirring for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour1 squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and serve4 ,,carrots1 ,,boiled4--,when carrots are boiled and served as a course by themselves1 they ought to be young4 ,this dish is constantly met with abroad in early summer1 but is rarely seen in ,england1 except at the tables of vegetarians4 ,the carrots should be trimmed1 thoroughly washed1 and1 if necessary1 slightly scraped1 and the point at the end1 which looks like a piece of string1 should be cut off4 ,they should be thrown into fast boiling water 7salted7 in order to preserve their colour4 ,when tender they can be served with some kind of good white sauce1 or sauce ,allemande or ,dutch sauce4 ,perhaps this latter sauce is best of all1 as it looks like rich custard4 ,part of the red carrot should show uncovered by any sauce4 ,they are best placed in a circle and the thick sauce poured in the centre2 a very little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled on the top of the sauce4 ,in making ,dutch sauce for carrots use lemon-juice instead of tarragon vinegar4 ,,carrots1 ,,fried4--,fried carrots can be made from full-grown carrots4 ,they must be first parboiled and then cut in slices2 they must then be dipped in well-beaten-up egg1 and then covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a nice brown in smoking hot oil in a frying-basket4 ,the slices of carrot should be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg4 ,,carrots1 ,,mashed4--,when carrots are very old they are best mashed4 ,boil them for some time1 then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve4 ,they can be pressed in a basin and made hot by being steamed4 ,a little butter1 pepper and salt should be added to the mixture4 ,a very pretty dish can be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed turnips4 ,they can be shaped in a basin1 and with a little ingenuity can be put into red and white stripes4 ,the effect is something like the top of a striped tent4 ,,cauliflower1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,cauliflowers can be treated in exactly the same manner as brocoli1 and there are very few who can tell the difference4 7,see ,,brocoli47 ,,cauliflower ,,au ,,gratin4--,this is a very nice method of serving cauliflower as a course by itself4 ,the cauliflower or cauliflowers should first be boiled till thoroughly tender1 very carefully drained1 and then placed upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost4 ,the whole of the flower part should then be masked 7i4e41 covered over7 with some thick white sauce4 ,allemande sauce or ,dutch sauce will do4 ,this is then sprinkled over with grated ,parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for the top to brown4 ,as soon as it begins to brown take it out of the oven and finish it off neatly with a salamander 7a red-hot shovel will do71 the same way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds4 ,,cauliflower ,,and ,,tomato ,,sauce4--,boil and place the cauliflower or flowers upright in a dish as in the above recipe4 ,now mask all the flower part very neatly1 commencing round the edges first1 with some tomato conserve previously made warm1 and serve immediately4 ,this is a very pretty-looking dish4 ,,celery1 ,,stewed4--,the secret of having good stewed celery is only to cook the white part4 ,throw the celery into boiling water1 with only sufficient water just to cover it4 ,when the celery is tender use some of the water in which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it1 or better still1 stew the celery in milk4 ,the sauce looks best when it is thickened with the yolks of eggs4 ,a very nice sauce indeed can be made by first thickening the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a little white roux1 and then adding a quarter of a pint of cream boiled separately4 ,stewed celery should be served on toast1 like asparagus2 a little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled over the white sauce by way of ornament1 and fried bread should be placed round the edge of the dish4 ,stewed celery can also be served with sauce ,allemande or ,dutch sauce4 ,,endive4--,endive is generally used as a salad1 but is very nice served as a vegetable1 stewed4 ,white-heart endives should be chosen1 and several heads will be required for a dish1 as they shrink very much in cooking4 ,wash and clean the endives very carefully in salt and water first1 as they often contain insects4 ,boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender1 then drain them off1 and thoroughly extract the moisture2 put them in a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg1 let them stew for some little time2 add the juice of a lemon1 and serve4 ,it will make the dish much prettier if you reserve one head of endive boiled whole4 ,place the stewed endive on a dish1 and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley over it1 then place the single head of endive upright in the centre1 and place some fried bread round the edge4 ,,leeks1 ,,stewed4--,leeks must be trimmed down to where the green part meets the white on the one side1 and the root1 where the strings are1 cut off on the other4 ,they should be thrown into boiling water1 boiled till they are tender1 and then thoroughly drained4 ,the water in which leeks have been boiled is somewhat rank and bitter1 and1 as the leeks are like tubes1 in order to drain them perfectly you must turn them upside down4 ,they can be served on toast1 and covered with some kind of white sauce1 either ordinary white sauce1 sauce ,allemande1 or ,dutch sauce4 ,,leeks1 ,,welsh ,,porridge4--,the leeks are stewed and cut in slices1 and served in some of the liquor in which they are boiled1 with toast cut in strips1 something like onion porridge4 ,boil the leeks for five minutes1 drain them off1 and throw away the first water1 and then stew them gently in some fresh water4 ,in years back1 in ,wales1 ,french plums were stewed with and added to the porridge4 ,,lettuces1 ,,stewed4--,as lettuces shrink very much when boiled1 allowance must be made1 and several heads used4 ,this is also a very good way of utilising the large old-fashioned ,english lettuce resembling in shape a gingham umbrella4 ,they should be first boiled till tender4 ,the time depends entirely upon the size4 ,drain them off1 and thoroughly extract the moisture2 put them into a stew-pan1 with a little butter1 pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg4 ,let them stew some little time1 and add a little vinegar1 or1 still better1 lemon-juice4 ,,lettuces ,,stewed ,,with ,,peas4--,a border of stewed lettuces can be made as above1 and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled young green peas4 ,,onions1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,when onions are served as a dish by themselves1 ,spanish onions are far best for the purpose4 ,ordinary onions1 as a rule1 are too strong to be eaten1 except as an accompaniment to some other kind of food4 ,when onions are plain boiled1 they are best served on dry toast without any sauce at all4 ,butter can be added when eaten on the plate if liked4 ,large ,spanish onions will require about three hours to boil tender4 ,,onions1 ,,baked4--,spanish onions can be baked in the oven4 ,they are best placed in saucers1 with a very little butter to prevent them sticking1 with which they can also be basted occasionally4 ,probable time about three hours4 ,they should be of a nice brown colour at the finish4 ,,onions1 ,,stewed4--,place a large ,spanish onion in a saucer at the bottom of the saucepan1 and put sufficient water in the saucepan to reach the edge of the saucer2 keep the lid of the saucepan on tight1 and let it steam till tender4 ,a large onion would take about three hours4 ,the water from the onion will prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time4 ,,parsnips4--,like young carrots1 young parsnips are often met with abroad as a course by themselves4 ,they should be trimmed and boiled whole1 and served with white sauce1 ,allemande sauce1 or ,dutch sauce2 a little chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the sauce1 and fried bread served round the edge of the dish4 ,,parsnips1 ,,fried4--,boil some full-grown parsnips till they are tender1 cut them into slices1 pepper and salt them1 dip them into beaten-up egg1 and cover them with bread-crumbs1 and fry these slices in some smoking hot oil till they are a nice brown colour4 ,,parsnips1 ,,mashed4--,when parsnips are very old they are best mashed4 ,boil them for an hour or more1 then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve4 ,the stringy part will have to be left behind4 ,mix the pulp with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt2 make this hot1 and serve4 ,a little cream is a great improvement4 ,,parsnip ,,cake4--,boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to mash1 then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon1 and carefully remove any fibrous1 stringy pieces there may be4 ,mix a teacupful of the mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk1 add a teaspoonful of salt1 four ounces of fresh butter1 half a pint of yeast1 and enough flour to make a stiff batter4 ,put the bowl which contains the mixture in a warm place1 cover it with a cloth1 and leave it to rise4 ,when it has risen to twice its original size1 knead some more flour into it1 and let it rise again2 make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick1 and place these on buttered tins4 ,let them stand before the fire a few minutes1 and bake them in a hot oven4 ,they do not taste of the parsnip4 ,time1 some hours to rise2 about twenty minutes to bake4 ,,peas1 ,,green4--,by far the best and nicest way of cooking green peas when served as a course by themselves is to stew them gently in a little butter without any water at all1 like they do in ,france4 ,the peas are first shelled1 and then placed in a stew-pan with a little butter1 sufficient to moisten them4 ,as soon as they are tender1 which will vary with the size and age of the peas1 they can be served just as they are4 ,the flavour of peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are nicest eaten with plain bread4 ,when old peas are cooked this way it is customary to add a little white powdered sugar4 ,,peas1 ,,green1 ,,plain ,,boiled4--,shell the peas1 and throw them into boiling water slightly salted4 ,keep the lid off the saucepan and throw in a few sprigs of fresh green mint five minutes before you drain them off4 ,young peas will take about ten to twenty minutes1 and full-grown peas rather longer4 ,serve the peas directly they are drained1 as they are spoilt by being kept hot4 ,,peas1 ,,stewed4--,when peas late in the season get old and tough1 they can be stewed4 ,boil them for rather more than half an hour1 throwing them first of all into boiling water2 drain them off1 and put them into a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,young onions and lettuces cut up can be stewed with them1 but young green peas are far too nice ever to be spoilt by being cooked in this way4 ,,scotch ,,kale4--,scotch kale1 or curly greens1 as it is sometimes called in some parts of the country1 is cooked like ordinary greens4 ,it should be washed very carefully1 and thrown into fast-boiling salted water4 ,the saucepan should remain uncovered1 as we wish to preserve the dark green colour4 ,young ,scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil before it is tender4 ,when boiled1 if served as a course by itself1 it should be strained off very thoroughly and warmed in a stew-pan with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,,sea ,,kale4--,sea kale possesses a very delicate flavour1 and in cooking it the endeavour should be to preserve this flavour4 ,throw the sea kale when washed into boiling water2 in about twenty minutes1 if it is young1 it will be tender4 ,serve it on plain dry toast1 and keep all the heads one way4 ,butter sauce1 white sauce1 ,dutch sauce1 or sauce ,allemande can be served with sea kale1 but should be sent to table separate in a boat1 as the majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain4 ,,spinach4--,the chief difficulty to contend with in cooking spinach is the preliminary cleansing4 ,the best method of washing spinach is to take two buckets of water4 ,wash it in one2 the spinach will float on the top whilst the dirt settles at the bottom4 ,lift the spinach from one pail1 after you have allowed it to settle for a few minutes1 into the other pail4 ,one or two rinsings will be sufficient4 ,spinach should be picked if the stalks are large1 and thrown into boiling water slightly salted4 ,boil the spinach till it is tender1 which will take about a quarter of an hour1 then drain it off and cut it very small in a basin with a knife and fork1 place it back in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly hot1 put it in a vegetable dish and serve4 ,hard-boiled eggs cut in halves1 or poached eggs1 are usually served with spinach4 ,a little cream1 nutmeg1 and lemon-juice can be added4 ,many cooks rub the spinach through a wire sieve4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow4--,vegetable marrows must be first peeled1 cut open1 the pips removed1 and then thrown into boiling water2 small ones should be cut into quarters and large ones into pieces about as big as the palm of the hand4 ,they take from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are tender4 ,they should be served directly they are cooked and placed on dry toast4 ,butter sauce or white sauce can be served with them1 but is best sent to table separate in a boat1 as many persons prefer them plain4 ,,vegetable ,,marrows1 ,,stuffed4--,young vegetable marrows are very nice stuffed4 ,they should be first peeled very slightly and then cut1 long-ways1 into three zigzag slices2 the pips should be removed and the interior filled with either mushroom forcemeat 7see ,,mushroom ,,forcemeat7 or sage-and-onion stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs4 ,the vegetable marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of the way from each end1 and these two rings of tape tied together with two or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends4 ,the forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the marrow4 ,the vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and boiled till it is tender1 about twenty minutes to half an hour4 ,take off the tape carefully1 and be careful to place the marrow so that one half rests on the other half1 or else it will slip4 ,n4,b4--,if you place the stuffing inside cold1 the vegetable marrow will break before the inside gets hot through4 ,,turnips1 ,,boiled4--,when turnips are young they are best boiled whole4 ,peel them first very thinly1 and throw them into cold water till they are ready for the saucepan4 ,throw them into boiling water slightly salted4 ,they will probably take about twenty minutes to boil4 ,they can be served quite plain or with any kind of white sauce1 butter sauce1 sauce ,allemande1 or ,dutch sauce4 ,in vegetarian cookery they are perhaps best served with some other kind of vegetable4 ,,turnips1 ,,mashed4--,old turnips are best mashed1 as they are stringy4 ,boil them till they get fairly tender2 they will take from half an hour to two hours1 according to age2 then rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the pulp with a little milk1 or still better1 cream and a little butter2 add pepper and salt4 ,n4,b4--,if the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid of the moisture gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack fire4 ,,turnips1 ,,ornamental4--,a very pretty way of serving young turnips in vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves and scoop out the centre so as to form cups2 the part scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up into small pieces1 and some green peas1 and placed in the middle of a dish in a heap2 the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round the base of the dish and each cup filled alternately with the red part of the carrot1 chopped small and piled up1 and a spoonful of green peas4 ,this makes a very pretty dish of mixed vegetables4 ,,turnip-,,tops4--,turnip-tops1 when fresh cut1 make very nice and wholesome greens4 ,they should be thrown into boiling water and boiled for about twenty minutes1 when they will be tender4 ,they should then be cut up with a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach4 ,if rubbed through a wire sieve and a little spinach extract mixed with them to give them the proper colour1 and served with hard-boiled eggs1 there are very few persons who can distinguish the dish from eggs and spinach4 ,,vegetable ,,curry4--,a border made of all kinds of mixed vegetables is very nice sent to table with some good thick curry sauce poured in the centre4 ,,nettles1 ,,to ,,boil4--,the best time to gather nettles for eating purposes is in the early spring4 ,they are freely eaten in many parts of the country1 as they are considered excellent for purifying the blood4 ,the young light-green leaves only should be taken4 ,they must be washed carefully and boiled in two waters1 a little salt and a very small piece of soda being put in the last water4 ,when tender1 turn them into a colander1 press the water from them1 put them into a hot vegetable-dish1 score them across three or four times1 and serve4 ,send melted butter to table in a tureen4 ,time1 about a quarter of an hour to boil4 ,,salsify4--,scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water with a little vinegar4 ,then throw it into boiling water1 boil til tender1 and serve on toast with white sauce4 ,time to boil1 about one hour4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,preserved ,,vegetables ,,and ,,fruits4 ,vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways4 ,we can have them preserved both in bottles and tins1 but the principle is exactly the same in both cases1 the method of preservation being simply that of excluding the air4 ,we will not enter into the subject of how to preserve fruit and vegetables1 but will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible the best method of using them when they are preserved4 ,unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice on the part of many persons against all kinds of provisions that are preserved in tins4 ,this prejudice is kept alive by stories that occasionally get into print about families being poisoned by using tinned goods4 ,we hear stories also of poisoning resulting from using copper vessels4 ,housekeepers should endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result of their own ignorance1 and that no danger would accrue were they possessed of a little more elementary knowledge of chemistry4 ,if a penny be dipped in vinegar and exposed to the air1 and is then licked by a child1 a certain amount of ill effect would undoubtedly ensue1 but it does not follow that we should give up the use of copper money4 ,so1 too1 if we use tinned goods1 and owing to our own carelessness or ignorance find occasionally that evil results ensue1 we should not give up the use of the goods in question1 but endeavour to find out the cause why these evil results follow only occasionally4 ,all good cooks know1 or ought to know1 that if they leave the soup all night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt4 ,again1 all housekeepers know that although they have a metal tank1 they are bound to have a wooden lid on top1 there being a law to this effect4 ,the point they forget in using tinned goods is this1 so long as the air is excluded from the interior of the tin no chemical action goes on whatever4 ,when1 therefore1 they open the tin1 if they turn out the contents at once no harm can ensue4 ,unfortunately1 there are many thousands who will open a tin1 take out what they want1 and leave the remainder in the tin4 ,of course1 they have only themselves to blame should evil result4 ,preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable from civilised cookery2 for instance1 what would a ,french cook do were he dependent for his mushrooms upon these fresh grown in the fields8 ,the standard dish at vegetarian restaurants is mushroom pie1 and1 thanks to tinned mushrooms1 we can obtain this dish all the year round4 ,in most restaurants peas are on the bill of fare throughout the year4 ,were we dependent upon fresh grown ones1 this popular dish would be confined almost to a few weeks4 ,in the case of preserved goods1 tinned fruits are even more valuable than tinned vegetables4 ,ripe apricots and peaches picked fresh from the tree are expensive luxuries that in this country can only be indulged in by the rich1 whereas1 thanks to the art of preserving1 we are enabled to enjoy them all the year round4 ,we will run briefly through a few of the chief vegetables and fruits1 and give a few hints how to best use them4 ,first of all-- ,,asparagus1 ,,tinned4--,place the tin in the saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it4 ,bring the water to a boil and let it boil for five minutes2 take out the tin and cut it open round the edge1 as near to the edge as possible1 otherwise you will be apt to break the asparagus in turning it out4 ,drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly made hot toast4 ,there is much less waste as a rule in tinned asparagus than in that freshly cut4 ,as a rule1 you can eat nearly the whole of it4 ,,peas1 ,,tinned4--,put the tin before it is opened into cold water1 bring the water to a boil1 and let it boil five minutes1 or longer if the tin is a large one4 ,cut open the tin at the top1 pour out the liquor1 and serve the peas with a few sprigs of fresh mint1 if it can be obtained1 that have been boiled for two or three minutes4 ,supposing the tin to contain a pint of peas1 add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of finely powdered sugar1 and half a saltspoonful of salt4 ,if the peas are to be eaten by themselves1 as is generally the case with vegetarians1 add a good-sized piece of butter4 ,,french ,,beans1 ,,tinned4--,these can be treated in exactly similar manner to green peas1 only1 instead of adding mint1 add a little chopped blanched parsley2 the same quantity of sugar and salt should be added as in the case of peas4 ,after the butter has melted1 it is a great improvement1 when the beans are eaten as a course by themselves1 with bread1 if the juice of half a lemon is added4 ,,flageolets1 ,,tinned4--,for this delicious vegetable1 in ,england1 we are dependent upon tinned goods1 as we cannot recall an instance in which they can be bought freshly gathered4 ,warm up the beans in the tin by placing the tin in cold water1 bringing the water to a boil1 and letting it boil for five minutes4 ,drain off the liquor1 add a saltspoonful of sugar1 half a one of salt1 and a lump of butter4 ,instead of butter1 you can add to each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil4 ,many persons consider it a great improvement to rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic4 ,in this case the beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two4 ,,brussels ,,sprouts1 ,,tinned4--,the tin should be made hot before it is opened1 the liquor drained off1 and the sprouts placed in a dish1 with a little butter or oil1 powdered sugar1 salt1 pepper1 and a slight flavouring of nutmeg4 ,in ,france1 in some parts1 a little cream is poured over them4 ,,spinach1 ,,tinned4--,spinach is sold in tins fairly cheap1 and1 quoting from the list of a large retail establishment where prices correspond with those of the ,civil ,service ,stores1 a tin of spinach can be obtained for fivepence-halfpenny4 ,the spinach should be made very hot in the tin1 turned out on to a dish1 and hard-boiled eggs1 hot1 cut in halves1 added4 ,some people add also a little vinegar1 but1 unless persons' tastes are known beforehand1 that is best added on the plate4 ,,carrots1 ,,tinned4--,young carrots can be obtained in tins1 and1 as only young carrots are nice when served as a course by themselves1 these will be found a valuable addition to the vegetarian store-cupboard4 ,make the carrots hot in the tin1 and let the water boil1 for quite ten minutes after it comes to the boiling point4 ,drain off the liquor1 and serve them with some kind of white sauce exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots4 ,,turnips1 ,,tinned4--,proceed exactly the same as in the case of carrots4 ,,fond ,d',,artichoke4--,these consist of the bottom part only of ,french artichokes4 ,they should be made hot in the tin1 and served up with some good butter sauce1 and cut lemon separate1 as many prefer the artichokes plain4 ,,macedoines4--,this1 as the word implies1 is a mixture of various vegetables1 the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot and turnip with young green peas4 ,a very nice dish which can be served at a very short notice1 if you have curry sauce in bottles1 is a dish of vegetable curry4 ,the macedoines should be made hot in the tin1 the liquor drained off1 and the curry sauce1 made hot1 should be poured into a well made in the centre of the macedoines in the dish4 ,macedoines are also very useful1 as they can be served as a vegetable salad at a moment's notice1 as the vegetables are sufficiently cooked without being made hot4 ,,tinned ,,fruits4--,tinned fruits are ready for eating directly the tin is opened4 ,all we have to bear in mind is to turn them all out of the tin on to a dish immediately4 ,do not leave any in the tin to be used at another time4 ,most tinned fruits can be served just as they are1 in a glass dish1 but a great improvement can be made in their appearance at a very small cost and with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house a little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries4 ,as these cost about a shilling or one and fourpence per pound1 and even a quarter of a pound is sufficient to ornament two or three dozen dishes1 the extra expense is almost nil4 ,,apricots1 ,,tinned4--,pile the apricots up1 with the convex side uppermost1 in a glass dish1 reserving one cup apricot to go on the top1 with the concave side uppermost4 ,take a few preserved cherries1 and cut them in halves1 and stick half a cherry in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots meet4 ,cut four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of the thumb-nail1 only a little longer2 the size of a filbert would perhaps describe the size better4 ,put a whole cherry in the apricot cup at the top1 and four green leaves of angelica round it4 ,take the white kernel of the apricot--one or two will always be found in every tin--and cut four white slices out of the middle1 place these round the red cherry1 touching the cherry1 and resting between the four green leaves of angelica2 the top of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty flower4 ,,peaches1 ,,tinned4--,these can be treated in exactly a similar way to the apricots4 ,,peaches ,,and ,,apricots1 ,,with ,,cream4--,place the fruit in a glass dish1 with the concave side uppermost2 pour the syrup round the fruit1 and with a teaspoon remove any syrup that may have settled in the little cups1 for such the half-peaches or apricots may be called4 ,get a small jar of ,devonshire clotted cream2 take about half a teaspoonful of cream1 and place it in the middle of each cup1 and place a single preserved cherry on the top of the cream4 ,this dish can be made still prettier by chopping up a little green angelica1 like parsley1 and sprinkling a few of these little green specks on the white cream4 ,,pine-,,apple1 ,,tinned4--,pine-apples are preserved in tins whole1 and are very superior in flavour to those which are sold cheap on barrows1 which are more rotten than ripe4 ,they require very little ornamenting1 but the top is greatly improved by placing a red cherry in the centre1 and cutting eight strips of green angelica like spikes1 reaching from the cherry to the edge of the pine-apple4 ,they should be cut in exact lengths1 so as not to overlap4 ,the top of the pine-apple looks like a green star with a red centre4 ,,pears1 ,,tinned4--,tinned pears are exceedingly nice in flavour1 but the drawback to them is their appearance4 ,they look like pale and rather dirty wax1 while the syrup with which they are surrounded resembles the water in which potatoes have been over-boiled4 ,the prettiest way of sending them to table is as follows3--,take1 say a teacupful of rice1 wash it very carefully1 boil it1 and let it get dry and cold4 ,take the syrup from the pears and taste it1 and if not sweet enough add some powdered sugar4 ,put the rice in a glass dish1 and make a very small well in the centre1 and pour all the syrup into this1 so that it soaks into the rice at the bottom of the dish without affecting the appearance of the surface4 ,in the meantime1 place the pears themselves on a dish1 and let the syrup drain off them1 and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to let them dry all the better4 ,now1 with an ordinary brush1 paint these waxy-looking pears a bright red with a little cochineal1 and place these half-pears on the white rice1 slanting1 with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost4 ,cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half long and of the thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear1 and stick one of these into the stalk end of each pear4 ,the red pear1 with the green stalk resting on the snow-white bed of rice1 looks very pretty4 ,a little chopped angelica can be sprinkled over the white rice1 like chopped parsley4 ,,fruits1 ,,bottled4--,when apricots and peaches are preserved in bottles1 they can be treated exactly in a similar manner to those preserved in tins4 ,it will be found advisable1 however1 to taste the syrup in the bottle1 as it will be often found that it requires the addition of a little more sugar4 ,ordinary bottled fruits1 such as gooseberries1 currants1 raspberries1 rhubarb1 damsons1 cranberries1 etc41 can be used for making fruit pies1 or they can be sent to table simply as stewed fruit4 ,in this case some whipped cream on the top is a very great improvement4 ,another very nice way of sending these bottled fruits to table is to fill a border made with rice1 as described in ,chapter ,,iii4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,jellies 7,,vegetarian7 ,,and ,,jams4 ,by vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles4 ,to be consistent1 if we cannot use anchovy sauce because it is made from fish1 on the same principle we cannot use either gelatine or isinglass1 which1 of course1 as everybody knows1 is made from fishes4 ,for all this1 there is no reason why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal1 so far as flavour is concerned1 to ordinary jelly4 ,the simplest substitute for gelatine1 or what is virtually the same thing1 isinglass1 is corn-flour4 ,tapioca could be used1 but corn-flour saves much trouble4 ,some persons may urge that it is not fair to give the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding4 ,there is1 however1 a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding flavoured with orange1 and what we may call an orange jelly1 in which corn-flour is only introduced1 like gelatine1 for the purpose of transforming a liquid into a solid4 ,we also have this advantage in using corn-flour3 it is much more simple and can be utilised for making a very large variety of jellies1 many of which1 probably1 will be new even to vegetarians themselves4 ,we are all agreed on one point1 i4e41 the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit4 ,we will suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on the hedgerows1 and that the children of the family are nothing loth to gather1 say1 a couple of quarts4 ,we will now describe how to make a mould of-- ,,blackberry ,,jelly4--,put the blackberries in an enamelled saucepan with a little water at the bottom1 and let them stew gently till they yield up their juice1 or they can be placed in a jar in the oven4 ,they can now be strained through a hair sieve1 but1 still better1 they can be squeezed dry in a tamis cloth4 ,this juice should now be sweetened1 and it can be made into jelly in two ways1 both of which are perfectly lawful in vegetarian cookery4 ,the juice1 like red currant juice1 can be boiled with a large quantity of white sugar till the jelly sets of its own accord2 in this case we should require one pound of sugar to every pint of juice1 and the result would be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly1 more like a preserve than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone4 ,for instance1 no one would care to eat a quantity of red currant jelly like we should ordinary orange or lemon jelly--it would be too sickly2 consequently we will take a pint or a quart of our blackberry juice only and sufficient sugar to make it agreeably sweet without being sickly4 ,we will boil this in a saucepan and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little cold juice to every pint to make the juice thick4 ,this can be now poured into a mould or plain round basin2 we will suppose the latter4 ,when the jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a dish1 say a silver dish1 with a piece of white ornamental paper at the bottom4 ,we now have to ornament this mould of blackberry jelly1 and1 as a rule1 it will be found that no ornament can surpass natural ones4 ,before boiling the blackberries for the purpose of extracting their juice1 pick out two or three dozen of the largest and ripest1 wash them and put them by with some of the young green leaves of the blackberry plant itself1 which should be picked as nearly as possible of the same size1 and1 like the blackberries1 must be washed4 ,now place a row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould1 with the stalk of the leaf under the mould1 and on each leaf place a ripe blackberry touching the mould itself4 ,take four very small leaves and stick them on the top of the mould1 in the centre1 and put the largest and best-looking blackberry of all upright in the centre4 ,this dish is now pretty-looking enough to be served on really great occasions4 ,we consider this dish worthy of being called blackberry jelly1 and not corn-flour pudding4 ,,lemon ,,jelly4--,take six lemons and half a pound of sugar1 and rub the sugar on the outside of three of the lemons2 the lemons must be hard and yellow1 the peel should not be shrivelled4 ,now squeeze the juice of all six lemons into a basin1 add the sugar and a pint of water4 ,of course1 the lemon-juice must be strained4 7,if wine is allowed1 add half a pint of good golden sherry or ,madeira47 ,bring this to the boil and thicken it with some corn-flour in the ordinary way1 allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for every pint of fluid4 ,pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out4 ,a lemon jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of dish4 ,the base of the mould should be ornamented with thin slices of lemon cut in half1 the diameter touching the base of the mould and the semicircular piece of peel outside4 ,if a round basin has been used for a mould1 place a corner of a lemon on the top in the middle1 surrounded with a few imitation green leaves cut out of angelica4 ,this improves the dish in appearance and also shows what the dish is made of4 ,,orange ,,jelly4--,take six oranges1 two lemons1 and half a pound of lump sugar2 rub the sugar on the outside of three of the oranges1 squeeze the juice of the six oranges into a basin with the juice of two lemons1 strain1 add the sugar and a pint of water4 ,the liquid will be of an orange colour1 owing to the rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar4 7,if wine be allowed1 add half a pint of golden sherry or ,madeira47 ,bring the liquid to boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour1 and pour it while hot into a mould or plain white basin2 when cold1 turn it out on to a piece of ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a dish2 surround the bottom of the mould with thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part pushed under the mould2 place the small end of an orange on the top of the mould with some little leaves or spikes of green angelica placed round the edge4 ,,black ,,currant ,,jelly4--,the juice of black currants makes excellent jelly in the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black currant juice with a pound of sugar till it sets2 but a mould of black currant jelly suitable to be used as a sweet at dinner can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the juice with corn-flour1 allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint1 and pouring it into a mould or plain round basin4 ,the mould can be ornamented as follows1 and we will suppose a pudding-basin to be used for the purpose4 ,we will suppose the mould of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean sheet of white paper4 ,pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves off the tree1 and place these round the base of the mould with the stalk of the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the leaf pointing outwards4 ,now choose a few very small bunches of black currants1 wash these and dip them into very weak gum and water1 and then dip them into white powdered sugar4 ,they now look1 when they are dry1 as if they were crystallised or covered with hoar-frost4 ,place one of these little bunches1 with the stalk stuck into the mould of jelly1 about an inch from the bottom1 so that each bunch rests on a green leaf4 ,cut a small stick of angelica and stick it into the top of the mould upright1 and let a bunch of frosted black currants hang over the top4 ,if we wish to make the mould of jelly very pretty as a supper dish1 where there is a good top light1 we can dip the green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle over them some powdered glass4 ,,red ,,currant ,,jelly4--,red currant jelly can be made in exactly a similar manner1 substituting red currants for black4 ,,raspberry ,,jelly4--,the raspberries should be picked very ripe1 and two or three dozen of the best-looking ones of the largest and ripest should be reserved for ornamenting4 ,if possible1 also gather some red currants and mix with the raspberries1 on account of the colour1 which otherwise would be very poor indeed4 ,it will be found best to rub the raspberries through a hair sieve1 as the addition of the pulp very much improves the flavour of the jelly4 ,the sieve should be sufficiently fine to prevent the pips of the raspberries passing through it4 ,the juice and pulp from the raspberries and currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed in the recipe for blackberry jelly4 ,raspberry leaves should be placed round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed on each4 ,the best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top of the mould in the centre of two or three raspberry leaves stuck in the jelly4 ,,apple ,,jam ,,and ,,apple ,,jelly4--,the following recipe is taken from ,a ,year's ,cookery1 by ,phyllis ,brown3--,the best time for making apple jelly is about the middle of ,november4 ,almost all kinds of apples may be used for the purpose1 though1 if a clear white jelly is wanted1 ,colvilles or orange-pippins should be chosen2 if red jelly is preferred1 very rosy-cheeked apples should be taken1 and the skins should be boiled with the fruit4 ,apple jam is made of the fruit after the juice has been drawn off for jelly4 ,economical housekeepers will find that very excellent jelly can be made of apple parings1 so that where apples in any quantity have been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient water to cover them1 and when the liquor is strongly flavoured it can be strained and boiled with sugar to a jelly4 ,to make apple jelly1 pare1 core and slice the apples and put them into a preserving-pan with enough water to cover them4 ,stir them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have fallen1 then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice1 but do not squeeze or press the pulp4 ,measure the liquid and allow a pound of sugar to a pint of juice4 ,put both juice and sugar back into the preserving-pan1 and1 if liked1 add one or two cloves tied in muslin1 or two or three inches of lemon-rind4 ,boil gently and skim carefully for about half an hour1 or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set4 ,pour it while hot into jars1 and when cold and stiff cover down in the usual way4 ,if yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied in muslin should be boiled with the juice4 ,to make apple jam1 weigh the apple pulp after the juice has been drawn from it1 rub it through a hair sieve1 and allow one pound of sugar to one pint of pulp1 and the grated rind of a lemon to three pints of pulp4 ,boil all gently together till the jam will set when a little is put on a plate4 ,apple jam is sometimes flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon4 ,,damson ,,jelly4--,damson jelly can be made in two ways4 ,the juice can be boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant jelly1 or the juice of the damsons can be sweetened with less sugar and thickened with corn-flour4 ,in order to extract the juice from damsons they should be sliced and placed in a jar or basin and put in the oven4 ,they are best left in the oven all night4 ,if the mould of jelly is made in a round basin1 a single whole damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green leaves placed round the base4 ,,pine-,,apple ,,jelly4--,the syrup from a preserved pine1 should the pine-apple itself be used for mixing with other fruits1 or for ornamental purposes1 can be utilised by being made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened with corn-flour4 ,it will bear the addition of a little water4 ,,apricot ,,jelly4--,the juice from tinned apricots can be treated like that of pine-apple4 ,when a mixture of fruits is served in a large bowl1 the syrup from tinned fruits should not be added1 but at the same time1 of course1 should be used in some other way4 ,,mulberry ,,jelly4--,mullberries1 of course1 would not be bought for the purpose1 but those who possess a mulberry tree in their garden will do well to utilise what are called windfalls by making mulberry jelly4 ,the juice can be extracted by placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven2 sugar must be added1 and the juice thickened with corn-flour4 ,there are few other ways of using unripe mulberries4 ,,jams4--,home-made jam is not so common now as it was some years back4 ,as a rule1 it does not answer from an economical point of view to buy fruit to make jam4 ,on the other hand1 those who possess a garden will find home-made jam a great saving4 ,those who have attempted to sell their fruit probably know this to their cost4 ,in making every kind of jam it is essential the fruit should be picked dry4 ,it is also a time-honoured tradition that the fruit is best picked when basking in the morning sun4 ,it is also necessary that the fruit should be free from dust1 and that all decayed or rotten fruit should be carefully picked out4 ,jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar1 and it is false economy to get common sugar2 cheap sugar throws up a quantity of scum4 ,years back many persons used brown sugar1 but in the present day the difference in the price of brown and white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always be used for the purpose4 ,the sugar should not be crushed4 ,it is best to boil the fruit before adding the sugar4 ,the scum should be removed1 and a wooden spoon used for the purpose4 ,a large enamel stew-pan can be used1 but tradition is in favour of a brass preserving-pan4 ,it will be found best to boil the fruit as rapidly as possible4 ,the quantity of sugar varies slightly with the fruit used4 ,supposing we have a pound of fruit1 the following list gives what is generally considered about the proper quantity of sugar ,,apricot ,,jam4--,three-quarters of a pound4 ,,blackberry ,,jam4--,half a pound2 if apple is mixed1 rather more4 ,,black ,,currant ,,jam4--,one pound4 ,,red ,,currant ,,jam4--,one pound4 ,,damson ,,jam4--,one pound4 ,,gooseberry ,,jam4--,three-quarters of a pound4 ,,greengage ,,jam4--,three-quarters of a pound4 ,,plum ,,jam4--,one pound4 ,,raspberry ,,jam4--,one pound4 ,,strawberry ,,jam4-,three-quarters of a pound4 ,,carrot ,,jam4--,if you wish the jam to be of a good colour1 only use the outside or red part of the carrots4 ,add the rind and the juice of one lemon1 and one pound of sugar to every pound of pulp2 a little brandy is a great improvement4 ,,rhubarb ,,jam4--,to every pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of sugar1 and the juice of one lemon and the rind of half a lemon4 ,essence of almonds can be substituted for the lemon4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,jam4--,add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of pulp4 ,the jam can be flavoured either with ginger or lemon-juice4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,creams1 ,,custards1 ,,and ,,cheese-,,cakes4 ,,creams4--,creams may be divided into two classes--whipped cream1 flavoured in a variety of ways1 and the solid moulds of cream1 which when turned out look extremely elegant1 but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing4 ,these latter moulds owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of isinglass1 and1 as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery1 we shall be able to dispense with cream served in this form1 nor are we losers by so doing4 ,the ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy liver1 and1 so far as palate is concerned1 is incomparably inferior to the more delicate whipped creams4 ,just in the same way a good rich custard made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid custard by the addition of gelatine4 ,in order to have good whipped cream1 the first essential is to obtain pure cream4 ,this greatly depends upon the neighbourhood in which we live4 ,in country houses1 away from large towns1 there is as a rule no trouble1 whereas in ,london really good cream can only be obtained with great difficulty4 ,there is a well-known old story of the ,london milkman telling the cook who complained of the quality of the cream to stir it up1 as the cream settled at the bottom4 ,we will not enter into the subject of the adulteration of cream in big cities1 as probably many of these stories are gross exaggerations1 though it is said that pigs' brains and even horses' brains have been used for the purpose of giving the cream a consistency1 while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give it a colour4 ,we will suppose that we have1 say1 a quart of really good thick cream4 ,all that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a froth4 ,this is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot1 and1 if the weather be very warm1 it is best to put the tin or pan containing the cream into ice an hour or two before it is used4 ,old ,french cookery-books recommend the addition of a little powdered gum1 not bigger than a pea1 and the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth4 ,others again beat up the white of an egg to a stiff froth1 and add this to the cream4 ,it is a good plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and drain it on a sieve placed upside down4 ,the cream that drains through can be added to what is left and re-whipped4 ,it is also a good plan to make whipped cream some time before it is wanted1 and1 indeed1 it can be prepared with advantage the day before4 ,when the cream is drained 7we are supposing a quart to have been used7 it should be mixed with three or four ounces of very finely powdered sugar1 as well as the particular kind of flavouring that will give the cream its name4 ,for instance1 we can have1 if liqueurs are allowed-- ,,maraschino ,,cream4--,this is simply made by mixing a small glass of maraschino with some whipped cream1 properly sweetened4 ,,coffee ,,cream4--,make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been roasted a high colour4 ,it will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster4 ,pound the berries in a pestle and mortar1 or grind them very coarsely2 then make a strong infusion with a very small quantity of water1 and strain it till it is quite bright4 ,this is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream4 ,,chocolate ,,cream4--,take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and dissolve it in a little boiling water2 let it get cold1 and then mix with the whipped sweetened cream4 ,,vanilla ,,cream4--,vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used for the purpose1 but a more simple process is to use a little essence of vanilla4 ,,orange ,,cream4--,rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange1 and pound this sugar very finely1 and then mix it with the whipped cream4 ,,lemon ,,cream4--,proceed exactly as in making orange cream1 only substituting lemon for orange4 ,,strawberry ,,cream4--,the juice only of the strawberry should be used4 ,this juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with the whipped cream4 ,it is a mistake1 in making creams1 to have too much flavouring4 ,the juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries would be sufficient for a quart of cream4 ,,pistachio ,,cream4--,take about half a pound of pistachio kernels1 throw them for a minute or two into boiling water1 and then rub off the skins1 throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds4 ,pound these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water1 and mix a little spinach extract to give it a colour4 ,now mix this with the whipped sweetened cream very thoroughly4 ,this bright green cream makes a very elegant dish4 ,,custards4--,good custard forms1 perhaps1 the best cold sweet sauce known4 ,it can be made very cheaply1 and1 on the other hand1 it may be made in such a manner as to be very expensive4 ,we will first describe how to make the most expensive kind of custard1 as very often we can gather ideas from a high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way4 ,the highest class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs1 and we can use cream in addition to milk4 ,the great art in making custard is to take care it does not curdle4 ,six yolks of eggs1 half a pint of milk1 half a pint of cream1 sweetened1 would1 of course1 form a very expensive custard4 ,an ordinary custard can be made as follows3--,take four large or five small eggs1 beat them up very thoroughly1 and add them gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately4 ,in order to thicken the custard1 it is a good plan to put it in a jug and stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water1 and stir the custard till it is sufficiently thick4 ,custard can be flavoured in various ways4 ,one of the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the milk4 ,custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of the essence of vanilla2 if you use a fresh pod vanilla1 tie it up in a little piece of muslin and have a string to it4 ,this can be boiled in the milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured1 and this pod can be used over and over again4 ,of course1 as it loses its flavour1 it will have to remain in the milk longer4 ,,cheap ,,custard4--,a very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of corn-flour4 ,the milk should be first sweetened1 and can be flavoured very cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon1 or by having a few bay-leaves boiled in it4 ,a rich yellow colour can be obtained by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract1 which1 like the green colouring1 is sold in bottles by all grocers4 ,these bottles are very cheap1 as they last a long time4 ,they simply give any kind of pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever1 and in this respect are very superior to saffron4 ,,apple ,,custard4--,good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a good flavour4 ,when apples are in season1 this dish can be made fairly cheaply1 but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples4 ,peel and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples1 and let these simmer till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water4 ,add about one pound of sugar1 or rather less if the apples are sweet2 add a little powdered cinnamon1 and mix all this with eight eggs1 well beaten up2 stir the mixture very carefully in a saucepan1 or better still in a good-sized jug placed in a saucepan1 till it begins to thicken4 ,this custard is best served in glasses1 and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top4 ,nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon1 and by many is thought superior4 ,,cheese-,,cakes4--,cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms1 the one some rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry1 or we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish1 the edges only of which are lined with puff paste4 ,we can also have cheese-cakes very rich and cheese-cakes very plain4 ,the origin of the name cheese-cake is that originally they were made from curds used in making cheese4 ,probably most people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior1 and in the ,north of ,england1 and especially in ,yorkshire1 where curds are exposed for sale in the windows at so much a pound1 very delicious cheese-cakes can be made1 but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to make home-made curds from ,london milk4 ,curds are made by taking any quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil1 then throw in a little rennet or a glass of sherry4 ,the curds must be well strained4 ,,cheese-,,cakes ,,from ,,curds4--,take half a pound of curds and press the curds in a napkin to extract the moisture4 ,take also six ounces of lump sugar1 and rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons4 ,dissolve this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven2 mix this with the curds1 with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated nutmeg--about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required2 add also six yolks of eggs4 ,mix this well together1 and fill the tartlet cases1 made from puff paste1 and bake them in the oven4 ,it is often customary to place in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel4 ,as soon as the cheese-cakes are done1 take them out of the oven1 and if the mixture be of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander1 but do not let them remain in the oven too long1 so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up4 ,these cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window4 ,suppose we make them of the size of a breakfast saucer1 a very rich and delicious cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the mixture4 ,sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias omitted4 ,sultana raisins can be used instead of currants1 and by many are much preferred4 ,this mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish lined with puff paste1 but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly expensive4 ,,cheese-,,cakes ,,from ,,potatoes4--,exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from remains of cold potatoes1 and can be made very cheap by increasing the quantity of potatoes used4 ,take a quarter of a pound of butter1 four eggs1 two fresh lemons1 and half a pound of lump sugar4 ,first of all rub off all the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar2 oil the butter in a tin in the oven and melt the sugar in it2 squeeze the juice of the two lemons1 and take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix all the ingredients together4 ,now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix the whole in a basin4 ,this now forms a very rich mixture indeed1 a good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an ordinary-sized cheese-cake1 but a far better plan is to make a large cheese-cake1 or rather cheese-cake pudding1 in a pie-dish by adding cold boiled potatoes4 ,the plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely upon the amount of potatoes added4 ,the pie-dish can be lined with a little puff paste round the edge1 if preferred1 or the pudding can be sent to table plain4 ,it should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely browned4 ,it can be served either hot or cold1 but1 in our opinion1 is nicer cold4 ,if the lemons are very fresh and green--if the pudding is sent to table hot--you will often detect the smell of turpentine4 ,if a large quantity of potatoes is added more sugar will be required4 ,,orange ,,cheese-,,cake4--,proceed exactly as above1 only substituting two oranges for two lemons4 ,,almond ,,cheese-,,cakes4--,proceed exactly as above1 only instead of rubbing the sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds4 ,,apple ,,cheese-,,cakes4--,apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to apple custard1 the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it sets4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,stewed ,,fruits ,,and ,,fruit ,,ices4 ,there are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit1 in every shape1 provided it is fresh4 ,it is a great mistake1 however1 to suppose that fruit1 when too stale to be eaten as it is1 is yet good enough for stewing4 ,we often hear1 especially in summer weather1 of persons being made ill from eating fruit4 ,probably in every case the injury results1 not from eating fruit as fruit1 but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an article of food at all4 ,there is an immense amount of injury done to this country by the importation of rotten plums1 more especially from ,germany1 and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health4 ,we will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at any rate fresh2 we do not say ripe1 because there are many instances in which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when stewed properly and sweetened4 ,as an instance we may mention green gooseberries and hard greengages1 which1 though quite uneatable in their natural state1 yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit4 ,of all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit1 and there are probably few sweets more popular than-- ,,compote ,,of ,,fruit4--,a compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits mixed together in a bowl4 ,some may be stewed and some served in their natural state1 or the whole may be stewed4 ,when a large variety of fruits can be obtained1 and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family bowl1 few dishes present a more elegant appearance1 especially if you happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle1 an old silver bowl with a black whalebone handle4 ,care should be taken to keep the fruit from being broken4 ,the following fruits will mix very well1 although1 of course1 it is impossible always to obtain every variety4 ,we can have strawberries1 raspberries1 red1 white1 and black currants1 and cherries1 as well as peaches1 nectarines1 and apricots4 ,we can also have stewed apples and stewed pears4 ,very much1 of course1 will depend upon the time of year4 ,those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup previously made1 and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten4 ,tinned fruits1 especially apricots1 can be mixed with fresh fruits1 only it is best not to use the syrup in the tin1 as it will probably overpower the flavour of the other fruits4 ,the syrup1 as far as possible1 should be bright and not cloudy4 ,the fruit in the bowl should be mixed1 but should not be stirred up4 ,we should endeavour as much as possible to keep the colours distinct4 ,if strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote1 the syrup will get red4 ,should black currants be present1 avoid breaking them1 as they spoil the appearance of the syrup4 ,in summer the compote of fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of good old brandy4 ,should the compote of fruits1 as is often the case1 be intended for a garden party1 where it will have to stand a long time1 if possible get a small bowl1 like those in which gold and silver fish are sold in the street for sixpence1 and fill this with ice and place it in the middle of the larger bowl containing fruit1 otherwise the melted ice will utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit1 which is sweetened with the syrup and flavoured with the brandy4 ,if much brandy be added1 old ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the best part of it4 ,,apples1 ,,stewed4--,peel and cut out the cores of the apples1 and stew them gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and rather more than a pint of water4 ,a small stick of cinnamon1 or a few cloves1 and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup1 but should be taken out when finished4 ,the apples should be stewed till they are tender1 but must not be broken4 ,the syrup in which the apples are stewed should of course be served with them4 ,this syrup can be coloured slightly with a few drops of cochineal1 but should not be coloured more than very slightly4 ,the syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright4 ,it can be strained and clarified4 ,apples are very nice stewed in white ,french wine1 such as ,chablis or ,graves4 ,,stewed ,,pears4--,pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew4 ,they should be peeled and the cores removed1 and then stewed very gently in a syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of water2 add a few cloves to the syrup1 say two cloves to each pear4 ,the pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are tender4 ,when tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal4 ,if the pears are stewed1 like they are abroad1 in claret1 add cinnamon instead of the cloves4 ,,stewed ,,rhubarb4--,stewed rhubarb is of two kinds4 ,when it first comes into season it is small1 tender1 and of a bright red colour1 and when stewed makes a very pretty dish4 ,the red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces about two inches long4 ,very little water will be required1 as the fruit contains a great deal of water in itself4 ,the amount of sugar added depends entirely upon taste4 ,the stewed rhubarb should be sent to table unbroken1 and floating in a bright red juice4 ,when rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree1 or mashed4 ,very old rhubarb is often stringy1 and can with advantage be rubbed through a wire sieve4 ,it is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb red1 but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little spinach extract4 ,a few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old rhubarb1 but should never be added to young red rhubarb4 ,,gooseberries1 ,,stewed4--,young green gooseberries stewed1 strange to say1 require less sugar than ripe gooseberries4 ,it is best to stew the fruit first1 and add the sugar afterwards4 ,the amount of sugar varies very much with the quality of the gooseberries4 ,,prunes1 ,,stewed4--,the prunes should be washed before they are stewed4 ,they will not take more than half an hour to stew1 and a strip of lemon-peel should be placed in the juice4 ,stewed prunes are much improved by the addition of a little port wine4 ,,plums1 ,,stewed4--,stewed plums1 such as black1 ordinary1 or greengages1 or indeed any kind of stone fruit1 can be stewed in syrup1 and have this advantage--plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if they were raw4 ,these fruits are much nicer cold than hot4 ,in many cases1 in stewing stone fruit 7and this applies particularly to peaches1 apricots1 and nectarines71 the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels added to the fruit4 ,,cherries1 ,,stewed4--,large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish when stewed4 ,very little water should be added1 and the syrup should be kept as white as possible1 and1 if necessary1 strained4 ,stew the cherries till they are tender1 but do not let them break4 ,colour the syrup with a few drops of cochineal1 and add a glass of maraschino4 ,,ices4--,ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries1 and show how completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers4 ,there are many houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup1 fish1 entrees1 joint1 game1 and wine1 and yet1 were we to suggest a course of ices1 the worthy housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance4 ,it is difficult to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always been accustomed to since they were children1 and whose definition of extravagance is anything new4 ,the fact remains1 however1 that there is many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each1 and manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself1 but for his signora as well4 ,under these circumstances1 the manufacture of these extravagances is worthy of inquiry4 ,ices can be made at home very cheaply with an ice machine1 which can now be obtained at a1 comparatively speaking1 small cost4 ,with a machine there is absolutely no trouble1 and directions will be given with each machine1 so that any details here1 which vary with the machine1 will be useless4 ,ices can be made at home without a machine with a little trouble1 and1 to explain how to do this1 it is necessary to explain the theory of ice-making1 which is exceedingly simple4 ,we will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders1 but to those which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed4 ,we will suppose we want a lemon-water ice1 i4e41 we have made some very strong and sweet lemonade1 and we want to freeze it4 ,it is well known that water will freeze at a certain temperature1 called freezing-point4 ,by mixing chopped ice and salt and a very little water together1 a far greater degree of cold can be immediately produced1 viz41 a thermometer would stand at #cb degrees below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture4 ,an ice machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself4 ,the sweet lemonade is placed in the middle pail1 and chopped ice and salt placed outside it4 ,the proportion of ice to salt should be double the weight of the former to the latter4 ,it is now obvious that if we have filled two pails1 the one with the sweet lemonade1 and the other with the ice and salt1 very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice4 ,to prevent this it must be constantly stirred1 and1 as the lemonade would of course freeze first against the sides of the pail1 these sides must be constantly scraped4 ,inside the inner pail1 consequently1 there is a stirrer1 which1 by means of a handle1 continually scrapes the side of the pail4 ,it is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed1 and the pail itself made to revolve1 that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made to revolve4 ,to make lemon-water ice1 therefore1 place the lemonade in the inner pail1 surrounded with chopped ice and salt1 two parts of the former to one of the latter1 turn the handle1 and in a few minutes the ice is made4 ,now1 suppose you have not got a machine1 proceed as follows3 ,take an empty1 clean1 round coffee-tin 7the larger the better74 ,we mention coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house1 but any round tin will do4 ,get a clean piece of wood1 the same width as the inside diameter of the tin1 only it must be a great deal longer4 ,we will suppose the tin rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter4 ,our piece of wood1 which should be clean and smooth1 must be nearly five inches wide1 say a quarter of an inch thick1 and about two feet long4 ,next get a small tub1 say nine inches deep1 place the round tin in the middle1 with the sweet lemonade inside2 next place the piece of wood upright in the tin1 so that the wood touches the bottom4 ,next surround the tin with chopped ice and salt up to the edge of the tub1 fill it as high as you can1 and then cover it round with a blanket1 i4e41 cover the ice and salt4 ,now get someone to hold the wooden board steady2 take the tin in your two hands1 and turn it round and round1 first one way and then another4 ,in a very short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice4 ,the following hints1 rather than recipes1 for making ices1 i4e41 for making the liquid1 which must be frozen as directed above1 are given1 not because they are the best recipes1 but because cream1 which is the basis of all first-class ices1 is often too expensive to be used constantly4 ,of course1 real cream is far superior to any substitute4 ,,ice ,,cream1 ,,cheap4--,make a custard 7see ,,custard7 with half a pint of milk1 the yolks of two eggs1 and a tablespoonful of ,swiss milk and some sugar4 ,as soon as it gets a little thick1 stir it till it is nearly cold1 then add some essence of vanilla or almonds1 or a wineglassful of noyeau1 or any flavouring wished1 and freeze4 ,,ices ,,from ,,fresh ,,fruits4--,take half a pound of fresh strawberries or raspberries1 add half that weight of sugar1 pound thoroughly1 rub through a sieve1 and mix with this thick juice1 rubbed through1 half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream 7see ,,ice ,,cream1 ,,cheap71 only1 of course1 without any flavouring such as vanilla1 etc4 ,mix thoroughly1 and freeze4 ,n4,b4--,a few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries4 ,should the colour be poor1 brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal4 ,,ices ,,from ,,jam4--,mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream 7see ,,ice ,,cream1 ,,cheap71 without any flavouring such as vanilla4 ,rub all through a fine sieve1 and freeze4 ,cochineal will give additional colour to red jams2 spinach extract to green jams2 and a very little turmeric1 or yellow vegetable colouring1 to yellow jams4 ,a small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk4 ,,ice1 ,,lemon-,,water4--,rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons1 add this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup4 ,the amount of sugar is a matter of taste4 ,strain and freeze4 ,some persons add a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid4 ,,ice1 ,,orange-,,water4--,act exactly as in lemon-water1 using oranges instead of lemons1 and syrup containing less sugar4 ,,ice1 ,,water ,,fruit4--,all sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half a pint of juice1 such as currant-juice1 with twice that quantity of syrup1 and freezing4 ,grated ripe pine-apple1 pounded and bruised1 ripe cherries and greengages1 strawberry-juice1 raspberry-juice1 can be mixed with syrup and frozen4 ,sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage1 and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an improvement4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,cakes ,,and ,,bread4 ,in vegetarian cookery there is no difference1 as far as cake-making is concerned1 between it and ordinary cookery4 ,in making cakes we will confine our attention chiefly to general principles which1 if once known1 render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work4 ,those who wish for detailed recipes for making almost every kind of cake known will find all that they require on a large scale in ,cassell's ,dictionary of ,cookery1 and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in ,cassell's ,shilling ,cookery1 which has already reached its hundred-thousandth edition4 ,cakes may be divided into two classes--those that contain fruit and those that do not4 ,plum cakes can be made very rich indeed1 like a wedding cake1 or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with a few currants in it4 ,again1 cakes that contain no fruit can1 at the same time1 be made exceedingly rich1 the richness chiefly depending upon the amount of butter and eggs that are used4 ,we will first give a few directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes1 i4e41 cakes that contain no fruit at all4 ,perhaps the best model we can give to illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake4 ,the recipe is a very easy one to recollect1 as a pound cake means one that is made from a pound of butter1 a pound of sugar1 a pound of eggs1 and a pound of flour4 ,there is one addition1 however1 which the good plain cook will probably not be up to1 and which1 so far as flavour is concerned1 makes all the difference between ,francatelli and ,jemima ,ann--we must rub some of the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons4 ,it is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy1 and in every kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt4 ,in making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter4 ,it is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used1 and1 if salt butter1 it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt4 ,the next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream4 ,to do this it must be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon4 ,the basin should be a strong one1 and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one4 ,you simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and knock it about till it loses its consistency4 ,you cannot beat the butter to the consistency of ordinary cream1 but to a state more resembling ,devonshire clotted cream4 ,of course1 when it is like this it is much more easily mixed with the other ingredients4 ,in making a pound cake we should first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour1 sugar1 and eggs gradually4 ,when the whole is thoroughly well mixed together1 we must bake it in a tin1 or mould1 or hoop4 ,we need say nothing about tins or moulds1 but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a hoop1 for1 as a rule1 ordinary ,english cooks do not understand how to use them4 ,one great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is no fear of breaking it in turning it out4 ,a very simple hoop can be made with an ordinary slip of tin1 say six inches wide2 as the tin will lap over1 the cake can be made any size round you wish4 ,it is a good plan to fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin4 ,this can be twisted1 and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted1 and the tin will then open of its own accord4 ,the tin must be lined with buttered paper1 and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at the bottom4 ,when an amateur hoop is used like we have described1 care must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom4 ,the cake1 especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs1 like sponge cake1 will rise1 and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it1 and the unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom4 ,to prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top4 ,in a proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place1 but if we use a strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put on a heavy weight4 ,when this is done1 you must remember to allow room for the cake to rise4 ,a pound cake such as we have described can be made into a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins1 currants1 chopped candied peel1 sultana raisins1 or1 better still1 dried cherries4 ,in making ordinary cakes1 when currants are used1 they should be first washed and then dried2 if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy4 ,with regard to the flour1 it is cheapest in the end to use the best quality1 and the flour should be dried and sifted4 ,if you weigh the flour remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it1 and not after4 ,in using sugar get the best loaf2 this should also be pounded and sifted4 ,in using eggs1 of course each egg should be broken separately4 ,very often it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites4 ,this requires some little skill2 you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg boldly4 ,put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half1 spilling as much of the white as you can4 ,you will soon get the yolks separate4 ,next1 remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from them4 ,when the whites are beaten separately1 you must whisk them till they become a solid froth2 no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin4 ,the yolks should not be broken till they are wanted4 ,lemon-peel is often used in making cakes1 and in chopping it a little powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking together4 ,remember only to use the yellow part1 not the white4 ,the white part gives the cake a bitter flavour4 ,sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making4 ,if ,swiss milk is used as a substitute1 remember that less sugar will be required4 ,when pounded almonds are used for cakes1 the almonds must be blanched by being thrown1 first into boiling water1 and then into cold water4 ,in pounding them1 add a little rose-water or orange-flower water1 or the white of an egg1 to prevent the almonds getting oily4 ,nearly all plain cakes1 where only a few eggs are used1 will be made lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder4 ,a very good baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda1 and an ounce and a half of arrowroot4 ,the baking powder should be kept very dry4 ,a very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough1 which can be procured from the baker's4 ,suppose you have a quartern of dough1 put it in a basin1 cover it over with a cloth1 and put it in front of the fire to rise1 then spread it on a floured pastry-board1 slice it up1 and work in half a pound of fresh butter1 half a pound of moist sugar1 six eggs1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and half an ounce of caraway seeds4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 place them in two or more well-buttered tins or hoops1 and let them stand in front of the fire a little while before they are placed in the oven4 ,cakes can be flavoured with a variety of spices1 such as cinnamon1 mace1 nutmeg1 or powdered coriander seeds4 ,these last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns4 ,,bread4--,home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back4 ,most housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and money4 ,there are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven4 ,there are1 however1 many vegetarians who believe in what is called whole-meal bread4 ,a good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary stomachs4 ,we may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the purpose4 ,again1 if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves1 you will find great difficulty in baking the loaves4 ,this whole-meal is a very slow conductor of heat1 and the result will probably be that the outside of the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be eaten4 ,consequently1 should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread1 it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake4 ,we cannot do better1 in conclusion1 than quote what ,sir ,henry ,thompson says on this subject3--,the following recipe1 he says1 will be found successful1 probably1 after a trial or two1 in producing excellent1 light1 friable1 and most palatable bread3 ,to two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed whole-meal1 add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of baking powder and salt2 when these are well mixed1 rub in two ounces of butter1 and make into dough with half milk and water1 or with all milk if preferred4 ,make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes1' and bake without delay in a quick oven1 leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a lower temperature4 ,the butter and milk supply fatty matters1 in which the wheat is somewhat deficient2 all the saline and mineral matters of the husk are retained2 and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made4 ,moreover1 it retains the natural flavour of the wheat1 in place of the insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour1 although it is indisputable that bread produced from the latter1 especially in ,paris and ,vienna1 is unrivalled for delicacy1 texture1 and colour4 ,whole meal may be bought2 but mills are now cheaply made for home use1 and wheat may be ground to any degree of coarseness desired4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,pies ,,and ,,puddings4 ,in vegetarian cookery1 as a rule1 pies and puddings are made in the same way as in ordinary cookery1 with the exception that we cannot use lard or dripping in making our pastry4 ,nor are we allowed to use suet in making crust for puddings4 ,it would have been quite impossible to have given even one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known1 and we must refer those who wish for information on this subject to ,cassell's ,shilling ,cookery1 where will be found a very complete list1 but which would have occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where vegetarian cookery1 as a rule1 differs from the ordinary4 ,we will1 on the present occasion1 confine our attention to the two points we have mentioned1 viz41 how to make pastry without lard or dripping1 and pudding crust without suet4 ,the first of these two points causes no difficulty whatever1 as the best pastry1 especially that known as puff paste1 is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element2 but there is one point we must not overlook4 ,vegetarians are divided into two classes3 those who use the animal products--butter1 milk1 cream1 and eggs--and those who do not4 ,this latter class contains1 probably1 the most respected members of the vegetarian body1 as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid by all men to consistency4 ,how then are strict vegetarians to make pastry1 butter being classed with the forbidden fruit8 ,we fear we cannot tell them how to make good puff paste2 but ,necessity is the mother of invention1 and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter4 ,,pastry ,,without ,,butter4--,we will describe how to make a small quantity1 which is always best when we make experiments4 ,take half a pound of the best ,vienna flour1 and mix with it1 while dry1 about a salt-spoonful of baking-powder4 ,now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil1 and work the oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste4 ,next add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste2 roll it out and let it set between two tins containing ice1 similar to the method used in making high-class pastry4 ,we have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil1 but if ice is used more oil may be added4 ,we all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water1 consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid4 ,now take the paste1 roll it out1 and give it three turns2 roll it out again1 give it three more turns1 and put it back in the ice2 let it stand ten minutes or a quarter of an hour1 and repeat this process three times4 ,be careful to flour the pastry each time before it is turned4 ,by this means we get the pastry in thin layers1 with minute air bubbles between them1 and this will cause the pastry to rise4 ,if you are making a pie1 roll out the pastry the last time1 cover the pie1 and put it in the oven immediately1 while the pastry is cold4 ,do not let the pastry stand1 unless it be in a very cold place4 ,this pastry we have just described1 made with oil1 can also be utilised for puddings1 in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little more baking-powder1 and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs4 ,these must be dry1 and rubbed through a fine sieve4 ,,pastry ,,with ,,butter4--,good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg1 a pinch of salt1 while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice4 ,for the manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make it to other cookery books1 or to the shilling one above mentioned4 ,in making ordinary paste we must use less butter2 and when we use considerably less butter1 if we wish the pastry light1 we shall require baking-powder4 ,the quantity depends very much upon the quality4 ,many persons make their own baking-powder1 and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given in the last chapter1 viz41 an ounce of tartaric acid1 an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda1 and an ounce and a half of arrowroot4 ,a great deal1 too1 depends upon the quality of the flour4 ,vienna flour is much more expensive than ordinary flour1 but incomparably superior4 ,what limit we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say4 ,a quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour1 and a teaspoonful of baking-powder1 will make a fair crust4 ,when less butter is used the result is not altogether satisfactory4 ,,puddings4--,we next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet is used4 ,the ordinary plum pudding is a case in point4 ,the best substitute for suet1 of course1 is butter or oil2 a plum pudding1 however1 made without suet1 would undoubtedly be heavy1 and1 to avoid this1 we must use butter1 bread-crumbs1 and baking-powder4 ,it would be impossible to give any exact quantity1 as so much depends upon the other ingredients4 ,some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding1 and no flour1 in which case1 of course1 a very considerable number of eggs must be used or else the pudding will break to pieces4 ,in the case1 however1 of oil being used as a substitute for butter1 it is of the utmost importance that the oil be pure and fresh4 ,we here have to overcome a deeply-rooted ,english prejudice4 ,pure oil is absolutely tasteless1 and it has often been remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the same4 ,we fear1 however1 that purity in food is the exception rather than the rule1 as at no period of this country's history has the crime of adulteration been so rampant as in the present day4 ,adulteration has been said to be another form of competition4 ,too often adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery4 ,steps have been taken in recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud1 more especially in connection with butter4 ,were more ,acts passed similar to the ,margarine ,act we believe that this country would be richer and happier1 and without doubt more healthy4 ,in that large class of puddings known as custard pudding1 cabinet pudding1 there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery4 ,it would be quite impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs1 and when eggs are used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also4 ,we have1 throughout1 called particular attention to the importance of appearances4 ,in the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a dish1 it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg1 and to beat these to a stiff froth1 with a little white powdered sugar4 ,when the pudding is baked1 cover it with this snow-white froth1 and let it set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes4 ,whether the pudding is served hot or cold1 the result is the same4 ,an otherwise plain and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one1 the only extra expense being a little trouble4 ,we may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words3 ,whatsoever thy hand findeth to do1 do it with thy might4 ,,index4 ,allemande ,sauce1 #dd ,almond ,cheesecakes1 #agj ,fritters1 #aai ,sauce1 #dd ,sauce1 ,clear1 #de ,soup1 #bc ,apple ,cheesecakes1 #agj ,custard1 #afh ,fritters1 #aah ,jam1 #afa ,jelly1 #afa ,sauce1 #de ,soup1 #bd ,apples1 ,stewed1 #agb ,apricot ,fritters1 #aai ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #afc ,apricots ,tinned1 #aee with ,cream1 #aef ,aromatic ,herbs1 #cb ,arrowroot ,sauce1 #de ,artichokes1 ,french1 #acg a la ,provencale1 #acg ,boiled1 #acg ,fried1 #acg ,salad1 #ajb ,artichoke1 ,jerusalem1 #acg ,fried1 #ach ,mashed1 #ach ,sauce1 #de ,soup1 #bd ,asparagus and ,eggs1 #he ,boiled1 #aci ,salad1 #aja ,sauce1 #de ,soup1 #bd ,tinned1 #aec ,ayoli1 #aae ,baking-,powder1 #ahj ,banana ,fritters1 #aai ,barley and ,rice ,porridge1 #ge ,soup1 #be ,batter for ,fritters1 #aaf ,beans1 ,broad1 #aci a la ,bourgeoise1 #aci a la ,poulette1 #aci ,mashed1 #aci ,salad1 #ajc ,soup1 #bg ,beans1 ,french1 #aci ,pudding1 #adj ,salad1 #ajb ,soup1 #bg ,tinned1 #aed ,beans1 ,haricot1 #aca ,salad1 #ajc ,soup1 ,red1 #bf ,soup1 ,white1 #bf ,beetroot ,salad1 #ajb ,soup1 #bf ,beurre ,noir1 #dh ,blackberry ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #aeh ,black ,butter1 #dh and ,eggs1 #hf ,black ,currant ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #afj ,sauce1 #de ,bread1 #ahj and ,milk1 #ge ,potato1 #abi ,sauce1 #de ,whole-,meal1 #ahj ,brocoli1 #ada ,greens1 #ada ,brown ,mushroom ,sauce1 #ee ,onion ,sauce1 #ee ,brown ,roux1 #bb ,thickening1 #bb ,brussels ,sprouts1 #ada ,tinned1 #aed ,butter1 ,black1 #dh ,maitre d'hotel1 #ec ,melted1 #dh ,oiled1 #dh ,sauce1 #df ,cabbage1 #adb and ,cream1 #adc and ,rice1 #fc large ,white1 #adb ,red1 #adc ,soup1 #bg ,cakes1 #agg ,parsnip1 #adg ,pound1 #agi ,caper ,sauce1 #di ,carrot ,jam1 #afd ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #bg ,carrots1 ,boiled1 #adc ,fried1 #add ,mashed1 #add ,tinned1 #aed ,cauliflower and ,tomato ,sauce1 #ade au gratin1 #add ,boiled1 #add ,salad1 #ajd ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #bh ,casseroles1 #fd ,celery and ,eggs1 #he ,salad1 #ajc ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #bi ,stewed1 #ade ,cheesecakes1 #afe-afh ,almond1 #agj ,apple1 #agj from ,curds1 #afi ,orange1 #agj ,potato1 #afi ,cheese and ,eggs1 #hi and ,fried ,bread1 #aac and ,rice1 #fc ,devilled1 #aad ,fritters1 #aag ,cheese ,ramequins1 #aad ,sandwiches1 #ajg ,savoury1 #aac ,souffle1 #ib ,soup1 #bi ,stewed1 #aad ,straws1 #aad ,toasted1 #aad ,cherry ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #bi ,cherries1 ,stewed1 #agd ,chestnut ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #cj ,chestnuts and ,macaroni1 #gb ,chocolate ,cream1 #aff ,fritters1 #aai ,chutney ,sauce1 #ec ,cinnamon ,sauce1 #di ,clear ,soup1 #cj ,cocoanut ,sauce1 #di ,soup1 #ca ,coffee ,cream1 #aff ,fritters1 #aai ,cottage ,soup1 #cj ,cream and ,macaroni1 #gc ,cheese ,sandwiches1 #ajg ,chocolate1 #aff ,coffee1 #aff ,fritters1 #abj ,lemon1 #aff ,maraschino1 #aff ,orange1 #aff ,pistachio1 #afg ,strawberry1 #afg ,vanilla1 #aff ,creams1 #afe ,croquettes1 ,potato1 #abg ,rice1 #fe ,cucumber and ,eggs1 #hh ,salad1 #ajb ,sauce1 #di ,currant ,sauce1 ,black1 #ej ,red1 #ej ,black1 ,jam1 #afd ,black1 ,jelly1 #afj ,red1 ,jam1 #afd ,red1 ,jelly1 #afa ,curried ,eggs1 #hb ,lentils1 #acf ,rice #fc ,vegetables1 #aea ,curry ,sauce1 #ej ,custard1 ,apple1 #afh ,cheap1 #afh ,fritters1 #aai ,custards1 #afg ,cutlets1 ,potato1 #abg ,damson ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #afb ,dandelion ,salad1 #ajc ,devilled ,cheese1 #aad ,eggs1 #hb ,dutch ,sauce1 #ea ,green1 #ea ,egg ,balls1 #hc ,forcemeat1 #hc ,salad1 #ii ,sandwiches1 #ajf ,sauce1 #ea ,toast1 #he ,eggs1 #gh a la bonne femme1 #h a la ,dauphine1 #he a la tripe1 #hc and ,asparagus1 #he ,black ,butter1 #hf ,celery1 #he ,cheese1 #hi ,cucumber1 #hh ,garlic1 #hf ,mushrooms1 #hf ,onions1 #hg ,potatoes1 #hg ,rice1 #ff ,sauce ,robert1 #hg ,sorrel1 #hg ,spinach1 #he ,turnip-tops1 #he au gratin1 #hd ,boiled1 #gh ,hard1 #ha ,broiled1 #hg ,buttered1 #hh ,curried1 #hb ,devilled1 #hb ,fried1 #hj in ,sunshine1 #hh ,little1 #hi ,poached1 #ha ,scrambled1 #hh ,to ,break1 #hj ,endive1 #ade ,salad1 #ajj ,soup1 #ca ,english ,salad1 #ig ,extract of ,spinach1 #be ,fennel ,sauce1 #ea ,flageolets1 #acc ,tinned1 #aed ,fond d',artichokes1 #aee ,forcemeat of ,egg1 #hc of ,mushroom1 #aaj ,frangipane ,fritters1 #abj ,french ,beans1 #aci ,bean ,salad1 #ajb ,soup1 #bg ,pudding1 #adj ,salad1 #ig ,fritters1 #aaf ,almond1 #aai ,apple1 #aah ,apricot1 #aai ,banana1 #aai ,batter for1 #aaf ,cheese1 #aag ,chocolate1 #aai ,coffee1 #aai ,cream1 #abj ,custard1 #aai ,frangipane1 #abj ,game1 #aag ,german1 #aba ,ginger and ,rice1 #aba ,hominy1 #aag ,mushroom1 #aaf ,orange1 #abj ,pine ,apple1 #abj ,peach1 #abj ,potato1 #abj ,rice1 #aba ,sage and ,onion1 #aah ,spinach1 #aah ,sweet1 #aah ,tomato1 #aag ,vanilla1 #aai ,fruit1 ,compote of1 #aga ,soup1 #ca ,stewed1 #aga ,fruits1 ,bottled1 #aeg ,tinned1 #aee ,frumenty1 #gf ,game ,fritters1 #aag ,garlic and ,eggs1 #hf ,garnish of ,eggs1 #hi ,german ,fritters1 #aba ,salad1 #ajj ,sauce1 #ea ,ginger ,sauce1 #eb ,gooseberry ,sauce1 #eb ,gooseberries1 ,stewed1 #agc ,green ,bean ,soup1 #bg ,dutch ,sauce1 #ea ,mayonnaise ,sauce1 #ed ,pea ,soup1 ,dried1 #cg ,fresh1 #ch ,hare ,soup1 #cb ,haricot ,beans1 #aca ,bean ,salad1 #ajc ,soup1 ,red1 #bf ,white1 #bf ,herbaceous ,mixture1 #cb ,herbs1 ,aromatic1 #cb ,hominy1 #gf ,fried1 #gf ,fritters1 #aag ,hop ,salad1 #ajd ,horseradish ,sauce1 #eb ,hotch ,potch1 #cb ,ice ,cream1 #agf ,lemon ,water1 #agf ,orange ,water1 #agf ,water ,fruit1 #agg ,ices1 #agd from ,fresh ,fruit1 #agf from ,jams1 #agf ,indian ,pickle ,sauce1 #ec ,sandwiches1 #ajf ,italian ,salad1 #ajd ,sauce1 #ec ,jam ,apple1 #afa ,apricot1 #afd ,blackberry1 #afd ,black ,currant1 #afd ,carrot1 #afd ,damson1 #afd ,gooseberry1 #afd ,greengage1 #afd ,plum1 #afd ,raspberry1 #afd ,red ,currant1 #afd ,rhubarb1 #afd ,strawberry1 #afd ,vegetable ,marrow1 #afd ,jams1 #afc ,jardiniere ,soup1 #cc ,jellies1 #aeh ,jelly1 ,apple1 #afa ,apricot1 #afc ,blackberry1 #aeh ,black ,currant1 #afj ,damson1 #afb ,lemon1 #aei ,mulberry1 #afc ,orange1 #afj ,pine ,apple1 #afb ,raspberry1 #afa ,red ,currant1 #afa ,julienne ,soup1 #cc ,kale1 ,scotch1 #adh ,sea1 #adh ,leek ,soup1 #cc ,leeks1 ,stewed1 #ade ,welsh ,porridge1 #adf ,lemon ,cream1 #aff ,jelly1 #aei ,water1 ,ice1 #agf ,lentil ,porridge1 #ge ,puree a la ,soubise1 #cd ,soup1 #cc ,lentils1 #ace a la a ,provencale1 #acf ,boiled1 #acf ,curried1 #acf ,lettuce ,salad1 #ig ,lettuces1 ,stewed1 #adf with ,peas1 #adf ,macaroni1 #fg a la ,reine1 #fi and ,cheese1 #fh ,chestnuts1 #gb ,cream1 #gc ,eggs1 #fi ,tomatoes1 #gb as an ,ornament1 #gj au gratin1 #fi ,italian ,fashion1 #fh ,nudels1 #ga ,savoury1 #gb ,scolloped1 #gj ,soup1 ,clear1 #cd ,soup1 ,thick1 #cd ,timbale of1 #gj ,macedoines1 #aee ,maitre d'hotel ,sauce1 #ec ,butter1 #ec ,mango ,chutney ,sauce1 #ec ,maraschino ,cream1 #aff ,mayonnaise ,salad1 #ih ,sauce1 #ec ,sauce1 ,green1 #ed ,melon ,salad1 #aje ,milk ,porridge1 #ge ,soup1 #ce ,toast1 #gg ,mint ,sauce1 #ed ,mock ,turtle ,soup1 #ce ,mulberry ,jelly1 #afc ,mulligatawny ,soup1 #ce ,mushroom1 ,essence of1 #dd ,forcemeat1 #aaj ,fritters1 #aaf ,pie1 #aaj ,cold1 #aaj ,pudding1 #aaa ,puree of1 #ee ,sandwiches1 #ajf ,sauce1 #ed ,brown1 #ee ,mushrooms1 #ajh a la ,bordelaise1 #aaj a la ,provencale1 #aaj and ,eggs1 #hf au gratin1 #aji ,fried1 #aji ,plain1 #ajh ,mustard ,sauce1 #ee ,mustard and ,cress1 #ajd ,sandwiches1 #ajf ,nalesnikis1 #aaf ,nettles1 ,to ,boil1 #aea ,oatmeal ,porridge1 #gc ,oiled ,butter1 #dh ,omelet au ,kirsch1 #ie au ,rhum1 #ie ,cheese1 #ib ,fine ,herbs1 #ib ,onion1 #ib ,plain1 #ia ,potato1 #ib ,potato1 ,sweet1 #ib ,souffle1 #ic ,sweet1 #id ,vegetable1 #ie with ,jam1 #id ,omelets1 #hi ,onion ,omelet1 #ib ,salad1 #ajd ,sauce1 #ee ,brown1 #ee ,soup1 #ce ,brown1 #cf ,onions and ,eggs1 #hg ,baked1 #adf ,plain1 #adf ,stewed1 #adg ,stuffed1 #aae ,orange ,cheesecakes1 #agj ,cream1 #aff ,fritters1 #abj ,jelly1 #afj ,sauce1 #ef ,water ,ice1 #agf ,ox-tail ,soup1 #cf ,palestine ,soup1 #bd ,pancakes1 ,polish1 #aaf ,parsley ,sauce1 #ef ,to ,blanch1 #bf ,parsnip ,cake1 #adg ,soup1 #cf ,parsnips1 #adg ,fried1 #adg ,mashed1 #adg ,paste for ,pies1 #ahd4 ,puddings1 #ahe4 without ,butter1 #ahc4 ,peach ,fritters1 #abj ,peaches1 ,tinned1 #aef ,peaches with ,cream1 #aef ,pea ,soup1 ,dried ,green1 #cg ,split ,peas1 #cg ,fresh ,green1 #ch ,peas1 ,boiled1 #adh ,brose1 #acd ,dried1 #acc ,dried ,green with ,cream1 #ace ,dried whole ,green1 #acd ,green1 #adh ,pudding1 #acd ,stewed1 #adh ,tinned1 #aec ,pear ,soup1 #cg ,pears1 ,stewed1 #agc ,tinned1 #aef ,pie1 ,mushroom1 #aaj ,mushroom1 ,cold1 #aaa ,potato1 #aab ,pumpkin1 #aac ,pies and ,puddings1 ,general1 #ahc ,paste for1 #ahd4 ,pine ,apple ,fritters1 #abj ,ice1 #agg ,jelly1 #afb ,sauce1 #ef ,tinned1 #aef ,piroski ,sernikis1 #aaf ,pistachio ,cream1 #afg ,plum ,jam1 #afd ,sauce1 #ef ,plums1 ,stewed1 #agd ,polenta1 #aae ,poached ,eggs1 #ha ,poivrade ,sauce1 #eg ,polish ,pancakes1 #aaf ,porridge1 ,barley and ,rice1 #ge ,milk1 #ge ,lentil1 #ge ,oatmeal1 #gc ,sago1 #gg ,whole ,meal1 #ge ,potato ,balls1 #abg ,biscuits1 #abi ,border1 #abh ,bread1 #abi ,cake1 #abi ,cheese1 #acj ,cheesecake1 #afi ,chips1 #abf ,croquettes1 #abg ,fritters1 #abj ,omelet1 #ib ,omelet1 ,sweet1 #ib ,ribbon1 #abf ,salad1 #aja ,soup1 #ch ,potatoes and ,eggs1 #hg a la ,barigoule1 #acj a la ,lyonnaise1 #aca a la ,maitre d'hotel1 #abg a la ,provencale1 #aca ,baked1 #abe ,boiled1 #abc ,broiled1 #aca ,fried1 #abf ,mashed1 #abe ,new1 #abg ,saute1 #abf ,steamed1 #abd ,pound ,cake1 #agi ,prune ,sauce1 #eg ,prunes1 ,stewed1 #agc ,pudding1 ,cheese1 #aad ,french ,bean1 #adj ,mushroom1 #aaa ,peas1 #acd ,pumpkin1 #aac ,puddings1 #ahb ,pumpkin a la ,parmesane1 #aae ,pie1 #aac ,pudding1 #aac ,soup1 #ci ,puree1 ,endive1 #ca ,lentils1 #cd ,mushroom1 #ee of ,beans1 ,red1 #bf1 of ,beans1 ,white1 #bf of ,chestnuts1 #cj ,sorrel1 #eh ,rarebit1 ,welsh1 #aae ,raspberry ,ice1 #agf ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #afa ,sauce1 #eg ,ramequins1 ,cheese1 #aad ,ratafia ,sauce1 #eg ,ravigotte ,sauce1 #eg ,red ,currant ,jam1 #afd ,jelly1 #afa ,sauce1 #ej ,red ,haricot ,bean ,soup1 #bf ,rhubarb ,soup1 #ci ,stewed1 #agc ,rice1 #fj and ,barley ,porridge1 #ge and ,cabbage1 #fc and ,cheese1 #fc and ,eggs1 #ff and ,ginger ,fritters1 #aba and ,tomatoes1 #ff ,boiled1 #fa ,border1 #fd ,croquettes1 #fe ,curried1 #fc ,fritters1 #aba ,soup1 #ci ,soup a la ,royale1 #ci ,risotto1 #fb ,robert ,sauce1 #eh ,roux1 ,brown1 #bb ,white1 #bb ,sage and ,onion ,fritters1 #aah ,sago ,porridge1 #gg ,soup1 #dj ,salad1 ,artichoke1 #ajb ,asparagus1 #aja ,bean1 ,broad1 #ajc ,bean1 ,haricot1 #ajc ,beetroot1 #ajb ,cauliflower1 #ajd ,celery1 #ajc ,cucumber1 #ajb ,dandelion1 #ajc ,egg1 #ii ,endive1 #ajj ,english1 #ig ,french1 #ig ,french ,beans1 #ajb ,german1 #ajj ,hop1 #ajd ,italian1 #ajd ,mayonnaise1 #ih ,melon1 #aje ,mixed1 #ih ,mustard and ,cress1 #ajd ,onion1 #ajd ,potato1 #aja ,salsify1 #aja ,sweet1 #aje ,tomato1 #ii ,water-cress1 #ajc ,salads1 #if ,salsify1 ,boiled1 #aea ,salad1 #aja ,sandwiches1 #aje ,cheese1 #ajg ,cream ,cheese1 #ajg ,egg1 #ajf ,indian1 #ajf ,mushroom1 #ajf ,mustard and ,cress1 #ajf ,tomato1 #aje ,sauce1 ,allemande1 #dd ,almond1 #dd ,almond1 ,clear1 #de ,apple1 #de ,arrowroot1 #de ,artichoke1 #de ,asparagus1 #de ,bread1 #de ,butter1 #df ,butter1 ,black1 #dh ,butter1 ,oiled1 #dh ,caper1 #di ,carrot1 #di ,cauliflower1 #di ,celery1 #di ,cherry1 #di ,chestnut1 #di ,cinnamon1 #di ,cocoa-nut1 #di ,cucumber1 #di ,currant1 ,black1 #ej ,currant1 ,red1 #ej ,curry1 #ej ,dutch1 #ea ,green1 #ea ,egg1 #ea ,fennel1 #ea ,german ,sweet1 #ea ,ginger1 #eb ,gooseberry1 #eb ,horseradish1 #eb ,indian ,pickle1 #ec ,italian1 #ec ,maitre d'hotel1 #ec ,mango ,chutney1 #ec ,mayonnaise1 #ec ,green1 #ed ,mint1 #ed ,mushroom1 #ed ,brown1 #ee ,puree1 #ee ,mustard1 #ee ,onion1 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