,,what ,i ,,saw ,,in ,,california    ,a 
,description of ,its ,soil1 ,climate1   
,productions1 and ,gold ,mines2  with   
the ,best ,routes and ,latest           
,information for ,intending ,emigrants4 
,by    ,,edwin ,,bryant    ,late ,alcade
 of ,san ,francisco4    ,to which is    
annexed1 an ,appendix    ,containing    
official documents and letters          
authenticating the accounts  of the     
quantities of gold found1 with its      
actual value ascertained by  chemical   
assay4    ,also late communications     
containing accounts of the highest      
interest  and importance from the gold  
districts4    ,with a ,map4    #ahdi    
,all which ,i saw1 and part of which ,i 
was4      --,dryden4          ,,chapter 
,i4      ,geographical sketch of        
,california    ,its political and social
 institutions    ,colorado ,river       
,valley and river of ,san ,joaquin      
,former government    ,presidios        
,missions    ,ports and commerce4       
,for the general information of the     

reader1 it will be proper to give a     
brief geographical sketch of            
,california1 and some account of its    
political and social institutions1 as   
they have heretofore existed4    ,the   
district of country known geographically
 as ,upper ,california is  bounded on   
the north by ,oregon1 the forty-second  
degree of north  latitude being the     
boundary line between the two           
territories2 on the  east by the ,rocky 
,mountains and the ,sierra de los       
,mimbres1 a  continuation of the same   
range2 on the south by ,sonora and ,old 
or ,lower  ,california1 and on the west 
by the ,pacific ,ocean4 ,its extent from
 north  to south is about #gjj miles1   
and from east to west from #fjj to #hjj 
miles1 with an area of about #djj1jjj   
square miles4 ,a small portion only  of 
this extensive territory is fertile or  
inhabitable by civilized man1  and this 
portion consists chiefly in the strip of
 country along the  ,pacific ,ocean1    
about #gjj miles in length1 and from    

#ajj to #aej in  breadth1 bounded on the
 east by the ,sierra ,nevada1 and on the
 west by  the ,pacific4 ,in speaking of 
,upper ,california this strip of country
 is  what is generally referred to4     
,the largest river of ,upper ,california
 is the ,colorado or ,red1 which has  a 
course of about #ajjj miles1 and empties
 into the ,gulf of ,california  in      
latitude about #cb degrees north4 ,but  
little is known of the region  through  
which this stream flows4 ,the report of 
trappers1 however1 is  that the river is
 canoned between high mountains and     
precipices a  large portion of its      
course1 and that its banks and the      
country  generally through which it     
flows are arid1 sandy1 and barren4      
,green and  ,grand ,rivers are its      
principal upper tributaries1 both of    
which rise in  the ,rocky ,mountains1   
and within the territories of the       
,united ,states4  ,the ,gila is its     
lowest and largest branch1 emptying into
 the ,colorado1  just above its mouth4  

,sevier and ,virgin ,rivers are also    
tributaries of  the ,colorado4 ,mary's  
,river rises near latitude #db degrees  
north1 and  has a course of about #djj  
miles1 when its waters sink in the sands
 of  the desert4 ,this river is not laid
 down on any map which ,i have seen4    
,the ,sacramento and ,san ,joaquin      
,rivers have each a course of from #cjj 
to  #djj miles1 the first flowing from  
the north and the last from the  south1 
and both emptying into the ,bay of ,st4 
,francisco at the same  point4 ,they    
water the large and fertile valley lying
 between the ,sierra  ,nevada and the   
coast range of mountains4 ,i subjoin a  
description of the  valley and river    
,san ,joaquin1 from the pen of a        
gentleman 7,dr4 ,marsh7  who has        
explored the river from its source to   
its mouth4    ,this noble valley is the 
first undoubtedly in ,california1 and   
one of  the most magnificent in the     
world4 ,it is about #ejj miles long1    
with  an-average width of about fifty   

miles4 ,it is bounded on the east by the
  great ,snowy ,mountains1 and on the   
west by the low range1 which in many    
places dwindles into insignificant      
hills1 and has its northern terminus  at
 the ,strait of ,carquines1 on the ,bay 
of ,san ,francisco1 and its  southern   
near the ,colorado ,river4    ,the river
 of ,san ,joaquin flows through the     
middle of the valley for  about half of 
its extent1 and thence diverges towards 
the eastern  mountain1 in which it has  
its source4 ,about sixty miles further  
south  is the northern end of the ,buena
 ,vista ,lake1 which is about one       
hundred  miles long1 and from ten to    
twenty wide4 ,still farther south1 and  
near  the western side of the valley1 is
 another and much smaller lake4    ,the 
great lake receives about a dozen       
tributaries on its eastern side1  which 
all rise in the great range of the      
,snowy ,mountains4 ,some of these       
streams flow through broad and fertile  
valleys within the mountain's  range1   

and1 from thence emerging1 irrigate the 
plains of the great  valley for the     
distance of twenty or thirty miles4 ,the
 largest of these  rivers is called by  
the ,spanish inhabitants the river      
,reyes1 and falls  into the lake near   
its northern end2 it is a well-timbered 
stream1 and  flows through a country of 
great fertility and beauty4 ,the        
tributaries  of the ,san ,joaquin are   
all on the east side4    ,on ascending  
the stream we first meet with the       
,stanislaus1 a clear  rapid mountain    
stream1 some forty or fifty yards wide1 
with a  considerable depth of water in  
its lower portion4 ,the ,mormons have   
commenced a settlement1 called ,new     
,hope1 and built some two or three      
houses near the mouth4    ,there are    
considerable bodies of fertile land     
along the river1 and the  higher plains 
afford good pasturage4    ,ten miles    
higher up is the river of the           
,tawalomes2 it is about the  size of the
 ,stanislaus1 which it greatly          

resembles1 except that the  soil is     
somewhat better1 and that it            
particularly abounds with salmon4       
,some thirty miles farther comes in the 
,merced1 much the largest of the        
tributaries of the ,san ,joaquin4 ,the  
lands along and between the  tributaries
 of the ,san ,joaquin and the lake of   
,buena ,vista form a fine  pastoral     
region1 with a good proportion of arable
 land1 and a very  inviting field for   
emigration4 ,the whole of this region   
has been but  imperfectly explored2     
enough1 however1 is known to make it    
certain that  it is one of the most     
desirable regions on the continent4     
,in the valleys of the rivers which come
 down from the great ,snowy  ,mountains 
are vast bodies of pine1 and red-wood1  
or cedar timber1 and  the streams afford
 water power to any desirable amount4   
,the whole country east of the ,san     
,joaquin1 and the water communication   
which connects it with the lakes1 is    
considered1 by the best judges1 to  be  

particularly adapted to the culture of  
the vine1 which must  necessarily become
 one of the principal agricultural      
resources of  ,california4    ,the      
,salinas ,river empties into the        
,pacific1 about twelve miles above      
,monterey4 ,bear ,river empties into the
 ,great ,salt ,lake4 ,the other  streams
 of ,california are all small4 ,in      
addition to the ,great ,salt ,lake  and 
the ,utah ,lake there are numerous small
 lakes in the ,sierra ,nevada4  ,the    
,san ,joaquin is connected with ,tule   
,lake1 or ,lake ,buena ,vista1 a  sheet 
of water about eighty miles in length   
and fifteen in breadth4 ,a  lake1 not   
laid down in any map1 and known as the  
,laguna among the  ,californians1 is    
situated about sixty miles north of the 
,bay of ,san  ,francisco4 ,it is between
 forty and sixty miles in length4 ,the  
valleys  in its vicinity are highly     
fertile1 and romantically beautiful4 ,in
 the  vicinity of this lake there is a  
mountain of pure sulphur4 ,there are    

also soda springs1 and a great variety  
of other mineral waters1 and  minerals4 
,the principal mountains west of the    
eastern boundary of ,california 7the    
,rocky ,mountains7 are the ,bear ,river1
 ,wahsatch1 ,utah1 the ,sierra ,nevada1 
and the ,coast range4 ,the ,wahsatch    
,mountains form the eastern rim of the  
great interior basin4 ,there are        
numerous ranges in this desert basin1   
all of which run north and south1 and   
are separated from each other by        
spacious and barren valleys and plains4 
,the ,sierra ,nevada range is of        
greater elevation than the ,rocky       
,mountains4 ,the summits of the most    
elevated peaks are covered with         
perpetual snow4 ,this and the coast     
range run nearly parallel with the shore
 of the ,pacific4 ,the first is  from   
#ajj to #bjj miles from the ,pacific1   
and the last from forty to  sixty miles4
 ,the valley between them is the most   
fertile portion of  ,california4        
,upper ,california was discovered in    

#aedh1 by ,cabrillo1 a ,spanish         
navigator4 ,in #aegh1 the northern      
portion of it was visited by ,sir       
,francis ,drake1 who called it ,new     
,albion4 ,it was first colonized by the 
,spaniards1 in #agfh1 and formed a      
province of ,mexico until after the     
revolution in that country4 ,there have 
been numerous revolutions and  civil    
wars in ,california within the last     
twenty years2 but up to the  conquest of
 the country by the ,united ,states in  
#ahdf1 ,mexican authority  has generally
 been exercised over it4    ,the        
following description of the political  
and social condition of  ,upper         
,california in #ahbb is extracted and   
translated from a ,spanish  writer of   
that date4 ,i have thought that the     
extract would not be  uninteresting3--  
,government4--,upper ,california1 on    
account of its small population1  not   
being able to become a state of the     
great ,mexican republic1 takes  the     
character of territory1 the government  

of which is under the charge  of a      
commandant-general1 who exercises the   
charge of a superior  political chief1  
whose attributes depend entirely upon   
the president of  the republic and the  
general congress4 ,but1 to amplify the  
legislation  of its centre1 it has a    
deputation made up of seven vocals1 the 
half of  these individuals being removed
 every two years4 ,the superior         
political  chief presides at their      
sessions4 ,the inhabitants of the       
territory are  divided amongst the      
presidios1 missions1 and towns4         
,presidios4--,the necessity of          
protecting the apostolic predication    
was the obligatory reason for forming   
the presidios1 which were  established  
according to circumstances4 ,that of    
,san ,diego was the  first2 ,santa      
,barbara1 ,monterey1 and ,san ,francisco
 were built  afterwards4 ,the form of   
all of them is nearly the same1 and this
 is a  square1 containing about two     
hundred yards in each front1 formed of a

  weak wall made of mud-bricks4 ,its    
height may be four yards in the         
interior of the square1 and built on to 
the same wall4 ,in its entire           
circumference are a chapel1 storehouses1
 and houses for the commandant1         
officers1 and troops1 having at the     
entrance of the presidio quarters  for a
 corps-de-garde4    ,these buildings in 
the presidios1 at the first idea1 appear
 to have  been sufficient1 the only     
object having been for a defence against
 a  surprise from the gentiles1 or wild 
,indians in the immediate vicinity4     
,but this cause having ceased1 ,i       
believe they ought to be demolished1 as 
they are daily threatening a complete   
ruin1 and1 from the very limited  spaces
 of habitation1 must be very            
incommodious to those who inhabit  them4
 ,as to the exterior of the presidios1  
several private individuals  have built 
some very decent houses1 and1 having    
evinced great emulation  in this branch 
of business1 ,i have no doubt but in a  

short time we  shall see very           
considerable towns in ,california4      
,at the distance of one1 or at the most 
two miles from the presidio1  and near  
to the anchoring-ground1 is a fort1     
which has a few pieces of  artillery of 
small calibre4 ,the situation of most of
 them is very  advantageous for the     
defence of the port1 though the form of 
the walls1  esplanades1 and other       
imperfections which may be seen1 make   
them very  insignificant4    ,the       
battalion of each presidio is made up of
 eighty or more horse  soldiers1 called 
cuera2 besides these1 it has a number of
 auxiliary  troops and a detachment of  
artillery4 ,the commandant of each      
presidio  is the captain of its         
respective company1 and besides the     
intervention1  military and political1  
he has charge of all things relating to 
the  marine department4                 
,missions4--,the missions contained in  
the territory are twenty-one4  ,they    
were built at different epochs3 that of 

,san ,diego1 being the  first1 was built
 in #agfi2 its distance from the        
presidio of the same  name is two       
leagues4 ,the rest were built           
successively1 according to              
circumstances and necessity4 ,the last  
one was founded in the year #ahbb1      
under the name of ,san ,francisco       
,dolores1 and is the most northern of   
all4    ,the edifices in some of those  
missions are more extensive than in     
others1 but in form they are all nearly 
equal4 ,they are all fabricated  of     
mud-bricks1 and the divisions are       
according to necessity4 ,in all of  them
 may be found commodious habitations for
 the ministers1 storehouses  to keep    
their goods in1 proportional granaries1 
offices for  soap-makers1 weavers1      
blacksmiths1 and large parterres1 and   
horse and  cattle pens1 independent     
apartments for ,indian youths of each   
sex1 and  all such offices as were      
necessary at the time of its            
institution4  ,contiguous to and        

communicating with the former is a      
church1 forming a  part of the edifices 
of each mission2 they are all very      
proportionable1  and are adorned with   
profusion4    ,the ,indians reside about
 two hundred yards distant from the     
above-mentioned edifice4 ,this place is 
called the rancheria4 ,most of  the     
missions are made up of very reduced    
quarters1 built with  mud-bricks1       
forming streets1 while in others the    
,indians have been  allowed to follow   
their primitive customs2 their dwellings
 being a sort  of huts1 in a conical    
shape1 which at the most do not exceed  
four yards  in diameter1 and the top of 
the cone may be elevated three yards4   
,they  are built of rough sticks1       
covered with bulrushes or grass1 in such
 a  manner as to completely protect the 
inhabitants from all the  inclemencies  
of the weather4 ,in my opinion1 these   
rancherias are the  most adequate to the
 natural uncleanliness of the ,indians1 
as the  families often renew them1      

burning the old ones1 and immediately   
building others with the greatest       
facility4 ,opposite the rancherias1  and
 near to the mission1 is to be found a  
small garrison1 with  proportionate     
rooms1 for a corporal and five soldiers 
with their  families4 ,this small       
garrison is quite sufficient to prevent 
any  attempt of the ,indians from taking
 effect1 there having been some         
examples made1 which causes the ,indians
 to respect this small force4  ,one of  
these pickets in a mission has a double 
object2 besides keeping  the ,indians in
 subjection1 they run post with a       
monthly correspondence1  or with any    
extraordinaries that may be necessary   
for government4    ,all the missions in 
this ,california are under the charge of
 religious  men of the order of ,san    
,francisco4 ,at the present time their  
number is  twenty-seven1 most of them of
 an advanced age4 ,each mission has one 
of  these fathers for its administrator1
 and he holds absolute authority4  ,the 

tilling of the ground1 the gathering of 
the harvest1 the  slaughtering of       
cattle1 the weaving1 and everything that
 concerns the  mission1 is under the    
direction of the fathers1 without any   
other  person interfering in any way    
whatever1 so that1 if any one mission   
has  the good fortune to be             
superintended by an industrious and     
discreet  padre1 the ,indians disfrute  
in abundance all the real necessaries of
  life2 at the same time the nakedness  
and misery of any one mission are  a    
palpable proof of the inactivity of its 
director4 ,the missions extend  their   
possessions from one extremity of the   
territory to the other1 and  have made  
the limits of one mission from those of 
another4 ,though they  do not require   
all this land for their agriculture and 
the maintenance  of their stock1 they   
have appropriated the whole2 always     
strongly  opposing any individual who   
may wish to settle himself or his family
 on  any piece of land between them4    

,but it is to be hoped that the new     
system of illustration1 and the         
necessity of augmenting private         
properly1 and the people of reason1 will
 cause the government to take  such     
adequate measures as will conciliate the
 interests of all4 ,amongst  all the    
missions there are from twenty-one to   
twenty-two thousand  ,catholic ,indians2
 but each mission has not an equal or a 
proportionate  part in its congregation4
 ,some have three or four thousand1     
whilst  others have scarcely four       
hundred2 and at this difference may be  
computed the riches of the missions in  
proportion4 ,besides the number  of     
,indians already spoken of1 each mission
 has a considerable number of  gentiles1
 who live chiefly on farms annexed to   
the missions4 ,the number  of these is  
undetermined4    ,the ,indians are      
naturally filthy and careless1 and their
 understanding  is very limited4 ,in the
 small arts they are not deficient in   
ideas of  imitation but they never will 

be inventors4 ,their true character is  
that of being revengeful and timid1     
consequently they are very much         
addicted to treachery4 ,they have no    
knowledge of benefits received1 and     
ingratitude is common amongst them4 ,the
 education they receive in their        
infancy is not the proper one to        
develope their reason1 and1 if it  were1
 ,i do not believe them capable of any  
good impression4 ,all these  ,indians1  
whether from the continual use of the   
sweat-house1 or from  their filthiness1 
or the little ventilation in their      
habitations1 are  weak and unvigorous2  
spasms and rheumatics1 to which they are
 so much  subject1 are the consequences 
of their customs4 ,but what most injures
  them1 and prevents propagation1 is the
 venereal disease1 which most of  them  
have very strongly1 clearly proving that
 their humours are  analogous to        
receiving the impressions of this       
contagion4 ,from this  reason may be    
deduced the enormous differences between

 the births and  deaths1 which1 without 
doubt1 is one-tenth per year in favour  
of the  latter2 but the missionaries do 
all in their power to prevent this1     
with respect to the catechumens situated
 near them4    ,the general productions 
of the missions are1 the breed of the   
larger  class of cattle1 and sheep1     
horses1 wheat1 maize or ,indian corn1   
beans1  peas1 and other vegetables2     
though the productions of the missions  
situated more to the southward are more 
extensive1 these producing the  grape   
and olive in abundance4 ,of all these   
articles of production1 the  most       
lucrative is the large cattle1 their    
hides and tallow affording an  active   
commerce with foreign vessels on this   
coast4 ,this being the only  means the  
inhabitants1 missionaries1 or private   
individuals have of  supplying their    
actual necessities1 for this reason they
 give this  branch all the impulse they 
possibly can1 and on it generally place 
all  their attention4    ,it is now six 

years since they began to gather in     
hides and tallow for  commerce4         
,formerly they merely took care of as   
many or as much as they  required for   
their own private use1 and the rest was 
thrown away as  useless2 but at this    
time the actual number of hides sold    
annually on  board of foreign vessels   
amounts to thirty or forty thousand1 and
 about  the same amount of arrobas      
7twenty-five pounds7 of tallow2 and1 in 
pursuing their present method1 there is 
no doubt but in three or four  years the
 amount of the exportation of each of   
these articles will be  doubled4 ,flax1 
linen1 wine1 olive-oil1 grain1 and other
 agricultural  productions1 would be    
very extensive if there were stimulants 
to excite  industry2 but1 this not being
 the case1 there is just grain enough   
sown  and reaped for the consumption of 
the inhabitants in the territory4       
,the towns contained in this district   
are three2 the most populous  being that
 of ,angeles1 which has about twelve    

hundred souls2 that of  ,st4 ,joseph's  
of ,guadaloupe may contain six hundred1 
and the village of  ,branciforte two    
hundred2 they are all formed imperfectly
 and without  order1 each person having 
built his own house on the spot he      
thought  most convenient for himself4   
,the first of these pueblos is governed 
by  its corresponding body of           
magistrates1 composed of an alcalde or  
judge1  four regidores or municipal     
officers1 a syndic1 and secretary2 the  
second1 of an alcalde1 two regidores1 a 
syndic1 and secretary2 and the  third1  
on account of the smallness of its      
population1 is subject to the           
commandancia of ,monterey4    ,the      
inhabitants of the towns are white1 and1
 to distinguish them from  the ,indians1
 are vulgarly called people of reason4  
,the number of  these contained in the  
territory may be nearly five thousand4  
,these  families are divided amongst the
 pueblos and presidios4 ,they are nearly
  all the descendants of a small number 

of individuals who came from the        
,mexican country1 some as settlers1     
others in the service of the army1  and 
accompanied by their wives4 ,in the     
limited space of little more  than fifty
 years the present generation has been  
formed4    ,the whites are in general   
robust1 healthy1 and well made4 ,some of
 them  are occupied in breeding and     
raising cattle1 and cultivating small   
quantities of wheat and beans2 but for  
want of sufficient land1 for  which they
 cannot obtain a rightful ownership1    
their labours are very  limited4 ,others
 dedicate themselves to the service of  
arms4 ,all the  presidial companies are 
composed of the natives of the country1 
but the  most of them are entirely      
indolent1 it being very rare for any    
individual to strive to augment his     
fortune4 ,dancing1 horse-riding1 and    
gambling occupy all their time4 ,the    
arts are entirely unknown1 and ,i am    
doubtful if there is one individual who 
exercises any trade2 very few  who      

understand the first rudiments of       
letters1 and the other sciences  are    
unknown amongst them4    ,the fecundity 
of the people of reason is extreme4 ,it 
is very rare to  find a married couple  
with less than five or six children1    
while there  are hundreds who have from 
twelve to fifteen4 ,very few of them die
 in  their youth1 and in reaching the   
age of puberty are sure to see their    
grand-children4 ,the age of eighty and  
one hundred has always been  common in  
this climate2 most infirmities are      
unknown here1 and the  freshness and    
robustness of the people show the       
beneficial influence of  the climate2   
the women in particular have always the 
roses stamped on  their cheeks4 ,this   
beautiful species is without doubt the  
most active  and laborious1 all their   
vigilance in duties of the house1 the   
cleanliness of their children1 and      
attention to their husbands1  dedicating
 all their leisure moments to some kind 
of occupation that  may be useful       

towards their maintenance4 ,their       
clothing is always clean  and decent1   
nakedness being entirely unknown in     
either sex4    ,ports and               
,commerce4--,there are four ports1      
principal bays1 in this  territory1     
which take the names of the             
corresponding presidios4 ,the  best     
guarded is that of ,san ,diego4 ,that of
 ,san ,francisco has many  advantages4  
,santa ,barbara is but middling in the  
best part of the  season2 at other times
 always bad4 ,besides the               
above-mentioned places1  vessels        
sometimes anchor at ,santa ,cruz1 ,san  
,luis ,obispo1 ,el ,refugio1  ,san      
,pedro1 and ,san ,juan1 that they may   
obtain the productions of the  missions 
nearest these last-mentioned places2 but
 from an order sent by  the minister of 
war1 and circulated by the              
commandante-general1 we are  given to   
understand that no foreign vessel is    
permitted to anchor at  any of these    
places1 ,monterey only excepted1        

notwithstanding the  commandante-general
 has allowed the first three principal  
ports to  remain open provisionally4    
,were it not so1 there would undoubtedly
 be  an end to all commerce with        
,california1 as ,i will quickly show4   
,the only motive that induces foreign   
vessels to visit this coast is  for the 
hides and tallow which they barter for  
in the territory4 ,it is  well known1   
that at any of these parts there is no  
possibility of  realizing any money1 for
 here it does not circulate4 ,the goods 
imported  by foreign vessels are        
intended to facilitate the purchase of  
the  aforesaid articles1 well knowing   
that the missions have no interest in   
money1 but rather such goods as are     
necessary for the ,indians1 so that     
several persons who have brought goods  
to sell for nothing but money  have not 
been able to sell them4 ,it will appear 
very extraordinary that  money should   
not be appreciated in a country where   
its value is so well  known2 but the    

reason may be easily perceived by       
attending to the  circumstances of the  
territory4    ,the quantity of hides    
gathered yearly is about thirty or forty
  thousand2 and the arrobas of tallow1  
with very little difference1 will  be   
about the same4 ,averaging the price of 
each article at two dollars1  we shall  
see that the intrinsic value in annual  
circulation in  ,california is #adj1jjj 
dollars4 ,this sum1 divided between     
twenty-one  missions1 will give each one
 #ffff dollars4 ,supposing the only     
production of the country converted into
 money1 with what would the  ,indians be
 clothed1 and by what means would they  
be able to cover a  thousand other      
necessaries8 ,money is useful in        
amplifying speculations2  but in        
,california1 as yet1 there are no       
speculations1 and it  productions are   
barely sufficient for the absolute      
necessary  consumption4 ,the same       
comparison may be made with respect to  
private  individuals1 who are able to   

gather a few hides and a few arrobas of 
tallow1 these being in small quantities4
          ,,chapter ,,ii4      ,leave   
,new ,helvetia for ,san ,francisco      
,cosumne ,river    ,micklemes ,river    
,ford of the ,san ,joaquin    ,extensive
 plain    ,tule marshes    ,large droves
 of wild horses and elk    ,arrive at   
,dr4 ,marsh's    ,vineyard              
,californian grape    ,californian wine 
,aguardinte    ,mormon settlements on   
the ,san ,joaquin    ,californian beef  
,cattle    ,grasses of ,california      
,horses    ,breakfast    ,leave ,dr4    
,marsh's    ,arrive at ,mr4 ,livermore's
    ,comforts of his dwelling    ,large 
herds of cattle    ,sheep    ,swine     
,californian senora    ,slaughtering of 
a bullock    ,fossil oyster-shells      
,skeleton of a whale on a high mountain 
,arrive at mission of ,san ,jos         
,ruinous and desolate appearance of the 
mission    ,pedlars    ,landlady        
,filth    ,gardens of the mission       
,fruit orchards    ,empty warehouses and

 workshops    ,foul lodgings4           
,september #acth4--,we commenced to-day 
our journey from ,new ,helvetia to  ,san
 ,francisco4 ,our party consisted1      
including myself1 of ,colonel  ,russell1
 ,dr4 ,mc,kee of ,monterey1 ,mr4        
,pickett1 a traveller in the  country1  
recently from ,oregon1 and an ,indian   
servant1 who had been  furnished us by  
,captain ,sutter4 ,starting about #c    
o'clock ,p4,m41 we  travelled in a south
 course over a flat plain until sunset1 
and  encamped near a small lake on the  
rancho of ,mr4 ,murphy1 near the        
,cosumne ,river1 a tributary of the     
,sacramento1 which heads near the  foot 
of the ,sierra ,nevada4 ,the stream is  
small1 but the bottom-lands  are        
extensive and rich4 ,mr4 ,murphy has    
been settled in ,california about  two  
years1 and1 with his wife and several   
children1 has resided at this  place    
sixteen months1 during which time he has
 erected a comfortable  dwelling-house1 
and other necessary buildings and       

conveniences4 ,his  wheat crop was      
abundant this year2 and he presented us 
with as much  milk and fresh butter as  
we desired4 ,the grass on the upland    
plain over  which we have travelled is  
brown and crisp from the annual drought4
 ,in  the low bottom it is still green4 
,distance #ah miles4    ,september      
#ad4--,we crossed the ,cosumne ,river   
about a mile from our  camp1 and        
travelled over a level plain covered    
with luxuriant grass1  and timbered with
 the evergreen oak1 until three o'clock1
 when we  crossed the ,micklemes ,river1
 another tributary of the ,sacramento1  
and  encamped on its southern bank in a 
beautiful grove of live oaks4 ,the      
,micklemes1 where we crossed it1 is     
considerably larger than the  ,cosumnes4
 ,the soil of the bottom appears to be  
very rich1 and produces  the finest     
qualities of grasses4 ,the grass on the 
upland is also  abundant1 but at this   
time it is brown and dead4 ,we passed   
through  large tracts of wild oats      

during the day2 the stalks are generally
 from  three to five feet in length4    
,our ,indian servant1 or vaquero1       
feigned sickness this morning1 and we   
discharged him4 ,as soon as he obtained 
his discharge1 he was entirely  relieved
 from the excruciating agonies under    
which he had affected to  be suffering  
for several hours4 ,eating his          
breakfast1 and mounting his  horse1 he  
galloped off in the direction of the    
fort4 ,we overtook this  afternoon an   
,english sailor1 named ,jack1 who was   
travelling towards  ,monterey2 and we   
employed him as cook and hostler for the
 remainder of  the journey4    ,a       
variety of autumnal flowers1 generally  
of a brilliant yellow1 are in  bloom    
along the beautiful and romantic bunks  
of the rivulet4 ,distance  #be miles4   
,september #ae4--,our horses were       
frightened last night by bears1 and     
this morning1 with the exception of     
those which were picketed1 had  strayed 
so far that we did not recover them     

until ten o'clock4 ,our  route has      
continued over a flat plain1 generally  
covered with luxuriant  grass1 wild     
oats1 and a variety of sparkling        
flowers4 ,the soil is  composed of a    
rich argillaceous loam4 ,large tracts of
 the land are  evidently subject to     
annual inundations4 ,about noon we      
reached a small  lake surrounded by     
tule4 ,there being no trail for our     
guidance1 we  experienced some          
difficulty in shaping our course so as  
to strike the  ,san ,joaquin ,river at  
the usual fording place4 ,our man ,jack1
 by some  neglect or mistake of his own1
 lost sight of us1 and we were compelled
  to proceed without him4 ,this         
afternoon we saw several large droves of
  antelope and deer4 ,game of all kinds 
appears to be very abundant in  this    
rich valley4 ,passing through large     
tracts of tule1 we reached  the ,san    
,joaquin ,river at dark1 and encamped on
 the eastern bank4 ,here  we immediately
 made large fires1 and discharged       

pistols as signals to  our man ,jack1   
but he did not come into camp4 ,distance
 #ce miles4    ,september #af4--;,jack  
came into camp while we were            
breakfasting1  leading his tired horse4 
,he had bivouacked on the plain1 and1   
fearful  that his horse would break     
loose if he tied him1 he held the animal
 by  the bridle all night4    ,the ford 
of the ,san ,joaquin is about forty or  
fifty miles from its  mouth4 ,at this   
season the water is at its lowest stage4
 ,the stream at  the ford is probably   
one hundred yards in breadth1 and our   
animals  crossed it without much        
difficulty1 the water reaching about    
midway of  their bodies4 ,oak and small 
willows are the principal growth of wood
  skirting the river4 ,soon after we    
crossed the ,san ,joaquin this morning  
we met two men1 couriers1 bearing       
despatches from ,commodore ,stockton1   
the governor and commander-in-chief in  
,california1 to ,sutter's ,fort4        
,entering upon the broad plain1 we      

passed1 in about three miles1 a small   
lake1 the water of which was so much    
impregnated with alkali as to be        
undrinkable4 ,the grass is brown and    
crisp1 but the seed upon it is  evidence
 that it had fully matured before the   
drought affected it4 ,the  plain is     
furrowed with numerous deep trails1 made
 by the droves of wild  horses1 elk1    
deer1 and antelope1 which roam over and 
graze upon it4 ,the  hunting sportsman  
can here enjoy his favourite pleasure to
 its fullest  extent4    ,having        
determined to deviate from our direct   
course1 in order to visit  the rancho of
 ,dr4 ,marsh1 we parted from ,messrs4   
,mc,kee and ,pickett about  noon4 ,we   
passed during the afternoon several tule
 marshes1 with which  the plain of the  
,san ,joaquin is dotted4 ,at a distance1
 the tule of  these marshes presents the
 appearance of immense fields of ripened
  corn4 ,the marshes are now nearly dry1
 and to shorten our journey we  crossed 
several of them without difficulty4 ,a  

month earlier1 this would  not have been
 practicable4 ,i have but little doubt  
that these marshes  would make fine rice
 plantations1 and perhaps1 if properly  
drained1  they might produce the        
sugar-cane4    ,while pursuing our      
journey we frequently saw large droves  
of wild  horses and elk grazing quietly 
upon the plain4 ,no spectacle of moving 
life can present a more animated and    
beautiful appearance than a herd  of    
wild horses4 ,they were divided into    
droves of some one or two  hundred4     
,when they noticed us1 attracted by     
curiosity to discover what  we were1    
they would start and run almost with the
 fleetness of the wind  in the direction
 towards us4 ,but1 arriving within a    
distance of two  hundred yards1 they    
would suddenly halt1 and after bowing   
their necks  into graceful curves1 and  
looking steadily at us a few moments1   
with  loud snortings they would wheel   
about and bound away with the same      
lightning speed4 ,these evolutions they 

would repeat several times1  until1     
having satisfied their curiosity1 they  
would bid us a final  adieu1 and        
disappear behind the undulations of the 
plain4    ,the herds of elk were much   
more numerous4 ,some of them numbered at
  least two thousand1 and with their    
immense antlers presented1 when         
running1 a very singular and picturesque
 appearance4 ,we approached some  of    
these herds within fifty yards before   
they took the alarm4 ,beef in           
,california is so abundant1 and of so   
fine a quality1 that game is but  little
 hunted1 and not much prized1 hence the 
elk1 deer1 and even  antelope are       
comparatively very tame1 and rarely run 
from the  traveller1 unless he rides    
very near them4 ,some of these elk are  
as  large as a medium-sized ,mexican    
mule4    ,we arrived at the rancho of   
,dr4 ,marsh about #e o'clock ,p4,m41    
greatly  fatigued with the day's ride4  
,the residence of ,dr4 ,m4 is           
romantically  situated1 near the foot of

 one of the most elevated mountains in  
the  range separating the valley of the 
,san ,joaquin from the plain            
surrounding the ,bay of ,san ,francisco4
 ,it is called ,mount ,diablo1 and  may 
be seen in clear weather a great        
distance4 ,the dwelling of ,dr4 ,m4  is 
a small one-story house1 rudely         
constructed of adobes1 and divided  into
 two or three apartments4 ,the flooring 
is of earth1 like the walls4  ,a table  
or two1 and some benches and a bed1 are 
all the furniture it  contains4 ,such   
are the privations to which those who   
settle in new  countries must submit4   
,dr4 ,m4 is a native of ,new ,england1 a
 graduate of  ,harvard ,university1 and 
a gentleman of fine natural abilities   
and  extensive scientific and literary  
acquirements4 ,he emigrated to          
,california some seven or eight years   
since1 after having travelled  through  
most of the ,mexican ,states4 ,he speaks
 the ,spanish language  fluently and    
correctly1 and his accurate knowledge of

 ,mexican  institutions1 laws1 and      
customs was fully displayed in his      
conversation  in regard to them4 ,he    
obtained the grant of land upon which he
 now  resides1 some ten or twelve miles 
square1 four or fire years ago2 and     
although he has been constantly harassed
 by the wild ,indians1 who have  several
 times stolen all his horses1 and       
sometimes numbers of his  cattle1 he has
 succeeded in permanently establishing  
himself4 ,the  present number of cattle 
on his rancho is about two thousand1 and
 the  increase of the present year he   
estimates at five hundred4    ,i noticed
 near the house a vegetable garden1 with
 the usual variety of  vegetables4 ,in  
another inclosure was the commencement  
of an extensive  vineyard1 the fruit of 
which 7now ripe7 exceeds in delicacy of 
flavour  any grapes which ,i have ever  
tasted4 ,this grape is not indigenous1  
but  was introduced by the padres1 when 
they first established themselves  in   
the country4 ,the soil and climate of   

,california have probably  improved it4 
,many of the clusters are eight and ten 
inches in length1  and weigh several    
pounds4 ,the fruit is of medium size1   
and in colour a  dark purple4 ,the rind 
is very thin1 and when broken the pulp  
dissolves  in the mouth immediately4    
,although ,dr4 ,m4 has just commenced   
his  vineyard1 he has made several casks
 of wine this year1 which is now in  a  
stale of fermentation4 ,i tasted here1  
for the first time1  aguardinte1 or     
brandy distilled from the ,californian  
grape4 ,its  flavour is not unpleasant1 
and age1 ,i do not doubt1 would render  
it  equal to the brandies of ,france4   
,large quantities of wine and           
aguardinte are made from the extensive  
vineyards farther south4 ,dr4  ,m4      
informed me that his lands had produced 
a hundredfold of wheat  without         
irrigation4 ,this yield seems almost    
incredible2 but1 if we can  believe the 
statements of men of unimpeached        
veracity1 there have been  numerous     

instances of reproduction of wheat in   
,california equalling and  even         
exceeding this4    ,some time in ,july1 
a vessel arrived at ,san ,francisco from
 ,new ,york1  which had been chartered  
and freighted principally by a party of 
,mormon  emigrants1 numbering between   
two and three hundred1 women and        
children  included4 ,these ,mormons are 
about making a settlement for           
agricultural  purposes on the ,san      
,joaquin ,river1 above the rancho of    
,dr4 ,marsh4 ,two  of the women and one 
of the men are now here1 waiting for the
 return of  the main party1 which has   
gone up the river to explore and select 
a  suitable site for the settlement4    
,the women are young1 neatly dressed1   
and one of them may be called           
good-looking4 ,captain ,gant1 formerly  
of  the ,u4,s4 ,army1 in very bad       
health1 is also residing here4 ,he has  
crossed the ,rocky ,mountains eight     
times1 and1 in various trapping         
excursions1 has explored nearly every   

river between the settlements of  the   
,united ,states and the ,pacific ,ocean4
    ,the house of ,dr4 ,marsh being     
fully occupied1 we made our beds in a   
shed1 a short distance from it4         
,suspended from one of the poles forming
  the frame of this shed was a portion  
of the carcass of a recently            
slaughtered beef4 ,the meat was very    
fat1 the muscular portions of it        
presenting that marbled appearance1     
produced by a mixture of the fat  and   
lean1 so agreeable to the sight and     
palate of the epicure4 ,the  horned     
cattle of ,california1 which ,i have    
thus far seen1 are the  largest and the 
handsomest in shape which ,i ever saw4  
,there is  certainly no breed in the    
,united ,states equalling them in size4 
,they1  as well as the horses1 subsist  
entirely on the indigenous grasses1 at  
all seasons of the year2 and such are   
the nutritious qualities of the         
herbage1 that the former are always in  
condition for slaughtering1 and  the    

latter have as much flesh upon them as  
is desirable1 unless 7which  is often   
the case7 they are kept up at hard work 
and denied the  privilege of eating1 or 
are broken down by hard riding4 ,the    
varieties  of grass are very numerous1  
and nearly all of them are heavily      
seeded  when ripe1 and are equal1 if not
 superior1 as food for animals1 to corn 
and oats4 ,the horses are not as large  
as the breeds of the ,united  ,states1  
but in point of symmetrical proportions 
and in capacity for  endurance they are 
fully equal to our best breeds4 ,the    
distance we have  travelled to-day ,i   
estimate at thirty-five miles4          
,september #ag4--,the temperature of the
 mornings is most agreeable1 and  every 
other phenomenon accompanying it is     
correspondingly delightful to  the      
senses4 ,our breakfast consisted of warm
 bread1 made of unbolted  flour1 stewed 
beef1 seasoned with chile colorado1 a   
species of red  pepper1 and frijoles1 a 
dark-coloured bean1 with coffee4 ,after 

breakfast ,i walked with ,dr4 ,marsh to 
the summit of a conical hill1  about a  
mile distant from his house1 from which 
the view of the plain  on the north1    
south1 and east1 and the more broken and
 mountainous  country on the west1 is   
very extensive and picturesque4 ,the    
hills and  the plain are ornamented with
 the evergreen oak1 sometimes in clumps 
or  groves1 at others standing solitary4
 ,on the summits1 and in the gorges  of 
the mountains1 the cedar1 pine1 and fir 
display their tall  symmetrical shapes2 
and the ,san ,joaquin1 at a distance of 
about ten  miles1 is belted by a dense  
forest of oak1 sycamore1 and smaller    
timber  and shrubbery4 ,the herds of    
cattle are scattered over the           
plain1--some  of them grazing upon the  
brown but nutritious grass2 others      
sheltering  themselves from the sun     
under the wide-spreading branches of the
 oaks4  ,the tout ensemble of the       
landscape is charming4    ,leaving ,dr4 
,marsh's about three o'clock ,p4,m41 we 

travelled fifteen  miles1 over a rolling
 and well-watered country1 covered      
generally with  wild oats1 and arrived  
at the residence of ,mr4 ,robert        
,livermore just  before dark4 ,we were  
most kindly and hospitably received1 and
  entertained by ,mr4 ,l4 and his       
interesting family4 ,after our mules and
  baggage had been cared for1 we were   
introduced to the principal room in  the
 house1 which consisted of a number of  
small adobe buildings1  erected         
apparently at different times1 and      
connected together4 ,here we  found     
chairs1 and1 for the first time in      
,california1 saw a side-board  set out  
with glass tumblers and chinaware4 ,a   
decanter of aguardinte1  a bowl of loaf 
sugar1 and a pitcher of cold water from 
the spring1 were  set before us1 and1   
being duly honoured1 had a most reviving
 influence  upon our spirits as well as 
our corporeal energies4 ,suspended from 
the  walls of the room were numerous    
coarse engravings1 highly coloured with 

green1 blue1 and crimson paints1        
representing the ,virgin ,mary1 and many
  of the saints4 ,these engravings are  
held in great veneration by the  devout 
,catholics of this country4 ,in the     
corners of the room were two            
comfortable-looking beds1 with clean    
white sheets and pillow-cases1 a  sight 
with which my eyes have not been greeted
 for many months4    ,the table was soon
 set out1 and covered with a linen cloth
 of snowy  whiteness1 upon which were   
placed dishes of stewed beef1 seasoned  
with  chile ,colorado1 frijoles1 and a  
plentiful supply of tortillas1 with  an 
excellent cup of tea1 to the merits of  
which we did ample justice4  ,never were
 men blessed with better appetites than 
we are at the present  time4    ,mr4    
,livermore has been a resident of       
,california nearly thirty years1  and1  
having married into one of the wealthy  
families of the country1 is  the        
proprietor of some of the best lands for
 tillage and grazing4 ,an  arroyo1 or   

small rivulet fed by springs1 runs      
through his rancho1 in  such a course   
that1 if expedient1 he could1 without   
much expense1  irrigate one or two      
thousand acres4 ,irrigation in this part
 of  ,california1 however1 seems to be  
entirely unnecessary for the  production
 of wheat or any of the small grains4   
,to produce maize1  potatoes1 and garden
 vegetables1 irrigation is              
indispensable4 ,mr4  ,livermore has on  
his rancho about #cejj head of cattle4  
,his horses1  during the late           
disturbances1 have nearly all been      
driven off or stolen  by the ,indians4  
,i saw in his corral a flock of sheep   
numbering several  hundred4 ,they are of
 good size1 and the mutton is said to be
 of an  excellent quality1 but the wool 
is coarse4 ,it is1 however1 well adapted
  to the only manufacture of wool that  
is carried on in the  country1--coarse  
blankets and serpes4 ,but little        
attention is paid  to hogs here1        
although the breeds are as fine as ,i   

have ever seen  elsewhere4 ,beef being  
so abundant1 and of a quality so        
superior1 pork  is not prized by the    
native ,californians4    ,the ,senora   
,l4 is the first ,hispano-,american lady
 ,i have seen since  arriving in the    
country4 ,she was dressed in a white    
cambric robe1  loosely banded round the 
waist1 and without ornament of any kind1
  except several rings on her small     
delicate fingers4 ,her complexion is    
that of a dark brunette1 but lighter and
 more clear than the skin of  most      
,californian women4 ,the dark lustrous  
eye1 the long black and  glossy hair1   
the natural ease1 grace1 and vivacity of
 manners and  conversation1             
characteristic of ,spanish ladies1 were 
fully displayed by  her from the moment 
of our introduction4 ,the children1     
especially two  or three little         
senoritas1 were very beautiful1 and     
manifested a  remarkable degree of      
sprightliness and intelligence4 ,one of 
them  presented me with a small basket  

wrought from a species of tough grass1  
and ornamented with the plumage of birds
 of a variety of brilliant  colours4 ,it
 was a beautiful specimen of ,indian    
ingenuity4    ,retiring to bed about ten
 o'clock1 ,i enjoyed1 the first time for
 four  months1 the luxury of clean      
sheets1 with a mattress and a soft      
pillow4  ,my enjoyment1 however1 was not
 unmixed with regret1 for ,i noticed    
that  several members of the family1 to 
accommodate us with lodgings in the     
house1 slept in the piazza outside4 ,to 
have objected to sleeping in the  house1
 however1 would have been considered    
discourteous and offensive4             
,september #ah4--;,early this morning a 
bullock was brought up and  slaughtered 
in front of the house4 ,the process of  
slaughtering a beef  is as follows3 a   
vaquero1 mounted on a trained horse1 and
 provided  with a lasso1 proceeds to the
 place where the herd is grazing4       
,selecting an animal1 he soon secures it
 by throwing the noose of the  lasso    

over the horns1 and fastening the other 
end around the pommel of  the saddle4   
,during the first struggles of the      
animal for liberty1 which  usually are  
very violent1 the vaquero sits firmly in
 his seat1 and  keeps his horse in such 
a position that the fury and strength of
 the  beast are wasted without producing
 any other result than his own          
exhaustion4 ,the animal1 soon           
ascertaining that he cannot release     
himself from the rope1 submits to be    
pulled along to the place of  execution4
 ,arriving here1 the vaquero winds the  
lasso round the legs of  the doomed     
beast1 and throws him to the ground1    
where he lies perfectly  helpless and   
motionless4 ,dismounting from his horse1
 he then takes from  his leggin the     
butcher-knife that he always carries    
with him1 and  sticks the animal in the 
throat4 ,he soon bleeds to death1 when1 
in an  incredibly short space of time   
for such a performance1 the carcass is  
flayed and quartered1 and the meat is   

either roasting before the fire  or     
simmering in the stew-pan4 ,the lassoing
 and slaughter of a bullock  is one of  
the most exciting sports of the         
,californians2 and the daring           
horsemanship and dexterous use of the   
lariat usually displayed on these       
occasions are worthy of admiration4 ,i  
could not but notice the  ,golgotha-like
 aspect of the grounds surrounding the  
house4 ,the bones of  cattle were       
thickly strewn in all directions1       
showing a terrible  slaughter of the    
four-footed tribe and a prodigious      
consumption of  flesh4    ,a carretada  
of fossil oyster--shells was shown to me
 by ,mr4  ,livermore1 which had been    
hauled for the purpose of being         
manufactured  into lime4 ,some of these 
shells were eight inches in length1 and 
of  corresponding breadth and thickness4
 ,they were dug from a hill two or      
three miles distant1 which is composed  
almost entirely of this fossil4         
,several bones belonging to the skeleton

 of a whale1 discovered by ,mr4  ,l4 on 
the summit of one of the highest        
elevations in the vicinity of  his      
residence1 were shown to me4 ,the       
skeleton when discovered was  nearly    
perfect and entirely exposed1 and its   
elevation above the level  of the sea   
between one and two thousand feet4 ,how 
the huge aquatic  monster1 of which this
 skeleton is the remains1 managed to    
make his dry  bed on the summit of an   
elevated mountain1 more experienced     
geologists  than myself will hereafter  
determine4 ,i have an opinion on the    
subject1  however2 but it is so contrary
 in some respects to the received       
geological theories1 that ,i will not   
now hazard it4    ,leaving ,mr4         
,livermore's about nine o'clock ,a4,m41 
we travelled three or  four miles over a
 level plain1 upon which immense herds  
of cattle were  grazing4 ,when we       
approached1 they fled from us with as   
much alarm as  herds of deer and elk4   
,from this plain we entered a hilly     

country1  covered to the summits of the 
elevations with wild oats and tufts or  
hunches of a species of grass1 which    
remains green through the whole  season4
 ,cattle were scattered through these   
hills1 and more sumptuous  grazing they 
could not desire4 ,small streams of     
water1 fed by springs1  flow through the
 hollows and ravines1 which1 as well as 
the hill-sides1  are timbered with the  
evergreen oak and a variety of smaller  
trees4  ,about two o'clock1 ,p4,m41 we  
crossed an arroyo which runs through a  
narrow gorge of the hills1 and struck an
 artificial wagon-road1  excavated and  
embanked so as to afford a passage for  
wheeled vehicles  along the steep       
hill-side4 ,a little farther on we      
crossed a very rudely  constructed      
bridge4 ,these are the first signs of   
road-making ,i have  seen in the        
country4 ,emerging from the hills1 the  
southern arm of the  ,bay of ,san       
,francisco came in view1 separated from 
us by a broad and  fertile plain1 some  

ten or twelve miles in width1 sloping   
gradually  down to the shore of the bay1
 and watered by several small creeks and
  estuaries4    ,we soon entered through
 a narrow street the mission of ,san    
,jos1 or ,st4  ,joseph4 ,passing the    
squares of one-story adobe buildings    
once inhabited  by thousands of busy    
,indians1 but now deserted1 roofless1   
and crumbling  into ruins1 we reached   
the plaza in front of the church1 and   
the  massive two-story edifices occupied
 by the padres during the  flourishing  
epoch of the establishment4 ,these were 
in good repair2 but  the doors and      
windows1 with the exception of one1 were
 closed1 and  nothing of moving life was
 visible except a donkey or two1        
standing  near a fountain which gushed  
its waters into a capacious stone       
trough4  ,dismounting from our mules1 we
 entered the open door1 and here we     
found  two ,frenchmen dressed in sailor 
costume1 with a quantity of coarse      
shirts1 pantaloons1 stockings1 and other

 small articles1 together with          
aguardinte1 which they designed         
retailing to such of the natives in  the
 vicinity as chose to become their      
customers4 ,they were itinerant         
merchants1 or pedlars1 and had opened   
their wares here for a day or two  only1
 or so long as they could find          
purchasers4    ,having determined to    
remain here the residue of the day and  
the night1  we inquired of the          
,frenchmen if there was any family in   
the place that  could furnish us with   
food4 ,they directed us to a house on   
the opposite  side of the plaza1 to     
which we immediately repaired4 ,the     
senora1 a  dark-skinned and rather      
shrivelled and filthy specimen of the   
fair sex1  but with a black1 sparkling1 
and intelligent eye1 met us at the door 
of  the miserable hovel1 and invited us 
in4 ,in one corner of this wretched  and
 foul abode was a pile of raw hides1 and
 in another a heap of wheat4  ,the only 
furniture it contained were two small   

benches1 or stools1 one  of which1 being
 higher than the other1 appeared to have
 been  constructed for a table4 ,we     
informed the senora that we were        
travellers1 and wished refreshment and  
lodgings for the night4 ,esta  bueno1   
senores1 esta bueno1 was her reply2 and 
she immediately left  us1 and1 opening  
the door of the kitchen1 commenced the  
preparation of  our dinner4 ,the        
interior of the kitchen1 of which ,i had
 a good view  through the door1 was more
 revolting in its filthiness than the   
room in  which we were seated4 ,in a    
short time1 so industrious was our      
hostess1  our dinner1 consisting of two 
plates of jerked beef1 stewed1 and      
seasoned with chile colorado1 a plate of
 tortillas1 and a bowl of  coffee1 was  
set out upon the most elevated stool4   
,there were no knives1  forks1 or       
spoons1 on the table4 ,our amiable      
landlady apologized for  this deficiency
 of table-furniture1 saying that she was
 muy pobre  7very poor71 and possessed  

none of these table implements4 ,fingers
  were made before forks1 and in our    
recent travels we had learned to  use   
them as substitutes1 so that we found no
 difficulty in conveying  the meat from 
the plates to our mouths4    ,belonging 
to the mission are two gardens1 inclosed
 by high adobe walls4  ,after dinner we 
visited one of these4 ,the area of the  
inclosure  contains fifteen or twenty   
acres of ground1 the whole of which was 
planted with fruit trees and            
grape-vines4 ,there are about six       
hundred  pear trees1 and a large number 
of apple and peach trees1 all bearing   
fruit in great abundance and in full    
perfection4 ,the quality of the  pears  
is excellent1 but the apples and peaches
 are indifferent4 ,the  grapes have been
 gathered1 as ,i suppose1 for ,i saw    
none upon the vines1  which appeared    
healthy and vigorous4 ,the gardens are  
irrigated with  very little trouble1    
from large springs which flow from the  
hills a  short distance above them4     

,numerous aqueducts1 formerly conveying 
and  distributing water over an         
extensive tract of land surrounding the 
mission1 are still visible1 but as the  
land is not now cultivated1 they  at    
present contain no water4    ,the       
mission buildings cover fifty acres of  
ground1 perhaps more1 and  are all      
constructed of adobes with tile roofs4  
,those houses or barracks  which were   
occupied by the ,indian families are    
built in compact  squares1 one story in 
height4 ,they are generally partitioned 
into two  rooms1 one fronting on the    
street1 the other upon a court or corral
 in  the rear4 ,the main buildings of   
the mission are two stories in height1  
with wide corridors in front and rear4  
,the walls are massive1 and1 if         
protected from the winter rains1 will   
stand for ages4 ,but if exposed to  the 
storms by the decay of the projecting   
roofs1 or by leaks in the  main roof1   
they will soon crumble1 or sink into    
shapeless heaps of mud4  ,i passed      

through extensive warehouses and immense
 rooms1 once occupied  for the          
manufacture of woollen blankets and     
other articles1 with the  rude machinery
 still standing in them1 but unemployed4
 ,filth and  desolation have taken the  
place of cleanliness and busy life4 ,the
  granary was very capacious1 and its   
dimensions were an evidence of the      
exuberant fertility of the soil1 when   
properly cultivated under the           
superintendence of the padres4 ,the     
calaboose is a miserable dark room  of  
two apartments1 one with a small        
loop-hole in the wall1 the other a      
dungeon without light or ventilation4   
,the stocks1 and several other          
inventions for the punishment of        
offenders1 are still standing in this   
prison4 ,i requested permission to      
examine the interior of the church1  but
 it was locked up1 and no person in the 
mission was in possession of  the key4  
,its length ,i should suppose is from   
one hundred to one hundred  and twenty  

feet1 and its breadth between thirty and
 forty1 with small  exterior pretensions
 to architectural ornament or symmetry  
of  proportions4    ,returning from our 
rambles about the mission1 we found that
 our  landlady had been reinforced by an
 elderly woman1 whom she introduced  as 
mi madre1 and two or three ,indian      
muchachas1 or girls1 clad in  a costume 
not differing much from that of our     
mother ,eve4 ,the latter  were obese in 
their figures1 and the mingled          
perspiration and filth  standing upon   
their skins were any thing but agreeable
 to the eye4 ,the  two senoras1 with    
these handmaids near them1 were sitting 
in front of  the house1 busily engaged  
in executing some needlework4    ,supper
 being prepared and discussed1 our      
landlady informed us that she  had a    
husband1 who was absent1 but would      
return in the course of the  night1 and1
 if he found strange men in the house1  
he would be much  offended with her4    
,she had therefore directed her         

muchachas to sweep  out one of the      
deserted and half-ruined rooms on the   
opposite square1  to which we could     
remove our baggage1 and in which we     
could lodge  during the night2 and as   
soon as the necessary preparations were 
made1  we retired to our dismal         
apartment4 ,the compound of villanous   
smells  which saluted our nostrils when 
we entered our dormitory for the night  
augured unfavourably for repose4 ,the   
place had evidently been the abode  of  
horses1 cattle1 pigs1 and foul vermin of
 every description4 ,but with  the aid  
of a dark-coloured tallow-candle1 which 
gave just light enough  to display the  
murkiness and filth surrounding us1 we  
spread our beds  in the cleanest places1
 and laid down to rest4 ,distance       
travelled1 #ah  miles4                  
,,chapter ,,iii4      ,armies of fleas  
,leave the mission    ,clover    ,wild  
mustard    ,a carreta    ,family        
travelling    ,arrive at ,pueblo de ,san
 ,jos    ,capt4 ,fisher    ,description 

of the ,pueblo    ,the embarcadero      
,beautiful and fertile valley of the    
,pueblo    ,absence of architectural    
taste in ,california    ,town squirrels 
,fruit garden    ,grapes    ,tropical   
fruits    ,gaming rooms    ,contrast    
between ,california and ,american       
gamesters    ,leave ,san ,jos           
,beautiful avenue    ,mission of ,santa 
,clara    ,rich but neglected lands     
,effects of a bad government    ,a      
senora on the road-side    ,kindness of 
,californian women    ,fast riding      
,cruel treatment of horses    ,arrive at
 the mission of ,san ,francisco    ,a   
poor but hospitable family    ,arrive at
 the town of ,san ,francisco    ,w4,a4  
,leidesdorff1 ,esq41 ,american          
vice-consul    ,first view of the bay of
 ,san ,francisco    ,muchachos and      
,muchachas    ,capt4 ,montgomery        
,u4,s4 sloop-of-war1 ,portsmouth        
,town of ,san ,francisco2 its situation1
 appearance1 population    ,commerce of 
,california    ,extortion of the        

government and traders4      ,september 
#ai4--,several ,californians came into  
the mission during the  night or early  
this morning2 among them the husband of 
our hostess1 who  was very kind and     
cordial in his greetings4    ,while our 
man ,jack was saddling and packing the  
mules1 they gathered  around us to the  
number of a dozen or more1 and were     
desirous of  trading their horses for   
articles of clothing2 articles which    
many of  them appeared to stand greatly 
in need of1 but which we had not to part
  from4 ,their pertinacity exceeded the 
bounds of civility1 as ,i thought2  but 
,i was not in a good humour1 for the    
fleas1 bugs1 and other vermin1  which   
infested our miserable lodgings1 had    
caused me a sleepless night1  by goring 
my body until the blood oozed from the  
skin in countless  places4 ,these       
ruinous missions are prolific           
generators1 and the  nurseries of vermin
 of all kinds1 as the hapless traveller 
who tarries  in them a few hours will   

learn to his sorrow4 ,when these        
bloodthirsty  assailants once make a    
lodgment in the clothing or bedding of  
the  unfortunate victim of their        
attacks1 such are their courage and     
perseverance1 that they never           
capitulate4 ,blood or death is their    
motto2--the war against them1 to be     
successful1 must be a war of            
extermination4    ,poor as our hostess  
was1 she nevertheless was reluctant to  
receive any  compensation for her       
hospitality4 ,we1 however1 insisted upon
 her  receiving a dollar from each of us
 7dos pesos71 which she finally         
accepted2 and after shaking us cordially
 by the hand she bade us an             
affectionate adios1 and we proceeded on 
our journey4    ,from the ,mission of   
,san ,jos to the ,pueblo of ,san ,jos1  
the distance is  fifteen miles1 for the 
most part over a level and highly       
fertile plain1  producing a variety of  
indigenous grasses1 among which ,i      
noticed  several species of clover and  

mustard1 large tracts of which we rode  
through1 the stalks varying from six to 
ten feet in height4 ,the plain  is      
watered by several arroyos1 skirted with
 timber1 generally the  evergreen oak4  
,we met this morning a ,californian     
carreta1 or travelling-cart1  freighted 
with women and children1 bound on a     
pleasure excursion4 ,the  carreta is the
 rudest specimen of the wheeled vehicle 
,i have seen4  ,the wheels are          
transverse sections of a log1 and are   
usually about  #b-a_/b feet in diameter1
 and varying in thickness from the      
centre to the  rim4 ,these wheels are   
coupled together by an axletree1 into   
which a  tongue is inserted4 ,on the    
axletree and tongue rests a frame1      
constructed of square pieces of timber1 
six or eight feet in length1  and four  
or five in breadth1 into which are      
inserted a number of stakes  about1 four
 feet in length4 ,this frame-work being 
covered and floored  with raw hides1 the
 carriage is complete4 ,the carreta     

which we met  was drawn by two yokes of 
oxen1 driven by an ,indian vaquero1     
mounted on  a horse4 ,in the rear were  
two caballeros1 riding fine spirited    
horses1 with gaudy trappings4 ,they were
 dressed in steeple-crowned  glazed     
sombreros1 serapes of fiery colours1    
velvet 7cotton7  calzoneros1 white      
cambric calzoncillos1 and leggins and   
shoes of  undressed leather4 ,their     
spurs were of immense size4    ,the     
party halted as soon as we met them1 the
 men touching their heavy  sombreros1   
and uttering the usual salutation of the
 morning1 ,buenos  dios1 senores1 and   
shaking hands with us very cordially4   
,the same  salutation was repeated by   
all the senoras and senoritas in the    
carreta4 ,in dress and personal         
appearance the women of this party  were
 much inferior to the men4 ,their skins 
were dark1 sallow1 and  shrivelled2 and 
their costume1 a loose gown and reboso1 
were made of  very common materials4    
,the children1 however1 were all        

handsome1 with  sparkling eyes and ruddy
 complexions4 ,women and children were  
seated1   la ,turque1 on the bottom of  
the carreta1 there being no raised      
seats in the vehicle4    ,we arrived at 
the ,pueblo do ,san ,jos about twelve   
o'clock4 ,there being  no hotels in     
,california1 we were much at a loss     
where to apply for  refreshments and    
lodgings for the night4 ,soon1 however1 
we were met by  ,captain ,fisher1 a     
native of ,massachusetts1 but a resident
 of this  country for twenty years or   
more1 who invited us to his house4 ,we  
were  most civilly received by ,senora  
,f41 who1 although she did not speak    
,english1 seemed to understand it very  
well4 ,she is a native of the  southern 
,pacific coast of ,mexico1 and a lady of
 fine manners and  personal appearance4 
,her oldest daughter1 about thirteen    
years of age1  is very beautiful4 ,an   
excellent dinner was soon set out1 with 
a variety  of the native wines of       
,california and other liquors4 ,we could

 not have  felt ourselves more happy and
 more at home1 even at our own firesides
  and in the midst of our own families4 
,the ,pueblo de ,san ,jos is a village  
containing some six or eight  hundred   
inhabitants4 ,it is situated in what is 
called the ,pueblo  ,valley1 about      
fifteen miles south of the southern     
shore of the ,bay of  ,san ,francisco4  
,through a navigable creek1 vessels of  
considerable  burden can approach the   
town within a distance of five or six   
miles4  ,the embarcadero1 or landing1 ,i
 think1 is six miles from the ,pueblo4  
,the fertile plain between this and the 
town1 at certain seasons of the  year1  
is sometimes inundated4 ,the ,pueblo    
,valley1 which is eighty or  one hundred
 miles in length1 varying from ten to   
twenty in breadth1 is  well watered by  
the ,rio ,santa ,clara and numerous     
arroyos1 and is one  of the most fertile
 and picturesque plains in ,california4 
,for pastoral  charms1 fertility of     
soil1 variety of productions1 and       

delicious  voluptuousness of climate and
 scenery1 it cannot be surpassed4 ,this 
valley1 if properly cultivated1 would   
alone produce breadstuffs enough  to    
supply millions of population4 ,the     
buildings of the ,pueblo1 with few      
exceptions1 are constructed of adobes1  
and none of them have even the  smallest
 pretensions to architectural taste or  
beauty4 ,the church1  which is situated 
near the centre of the town1 exteriorly 
resembles a  huge ,dutch barn4 ,the     
streets are irregular1 every man having 
erected  his house in a position most   
convenient to him4 ,aqueducts convey    
water  from the ,santa ,clara ,river to 
all parts of the town4 ,in the main     
plaza  hundreds1 perhaps thousands1 of  
squirrels1 whose abodes are under       
ground1 have their residences4 ,they are
 of a brownish colour1 and about  the   
size of our common gray squirrel4       
,emerging from their subterraneous      
abodes1 they skip and leap about over   
the plaza without the least  concern1 no

 one molesting them4    ,the population 
of the place is composed chiefly of     
native ,californian  land-proprietors4  
,their ranchos are in the valley1 but   
their residences  and gardens are in the
 town4 ,we visited this afternoon the   
garden of  ,senor ,don ,antonio ,sugnol4
 ,he received us with much politeness1  
and  conducted us through his garden4   
,apples1 pears1 peaches1 figs1 oranges1 
and grapes1 with other fruits which ,i  
do not now recollect1 were  growing and 
ripening4 ,the grape-vines were bowed to
 the ground with the  luxuriance arid   
weight of the yield2 and more delicious 
fruit ,i never  tasted4 ,from the garden
 we crossed over to a flouring-mill     
recently  erected by a son-in-law of    
,don ,antonio1 a ,frenchman by birth4   
,the mill  is a creditable enterprise to
 the proprietor1 and he will coin money 
from its operations4    ,the ,pueblo de 
,san ,jos is one of the oldest          
settlements in ,alta  ,california4      
,captain ,fisher pointed out to me a    

house built of adobes1  which has been  
standing between #hj and #ij years1 and 
no house in the  place appeared to be   
more substantial or in better repair4 ,a
 garrison1  composed of marines from the
 ,united ,states' ships1 and volunteers 
enlisted from the ,american settlers in 
the country1 is now stationed  here4    
,the post is under the command of       
,purser ,watmough1 of the ,united       
,states sloop-of-war ,portsmouth1       
commanded by ,captain ,montgomery4      
,during  the evening ,i visited several 
public places 7bar-rooms71 where ,i saw 
men and women engaged promiscuously at  
the game of monte4 ,gambling is  a      
universal vice in ,california4 ,all     
classes and both sexes participate  in  
its excitements to some extent4 ,the    
games1 however1 while ,i was  present1  
were conducted with great propriety and 
decorum so far as the  native           
,californians were concerned4 ,the loud 
swearing and other  turbulent           
demonstrations generally proceeded from 

the unsuccessful  foreigners4 ,i could  
not but observe the contrast between the
 two races  in this respect4 ,the one   
bore their losses with stoical composure
 and  indifference2 the other announced 
each unsuccessful bet with profane      
imprecations and maledictions4          
,excitement prompted the hazards of the 
former1 avarice the latter4             
,september #bj4--,the morning was cloudy
 and cool2 but the clouds broke  away   
about nine o'clock1 and the sun shone   
from a vapourless sky1 as  usual4 ,we   
met1 at the ,pueblo1 ,mr4 ,grove ,cook1 
a native of ,gerrard  county1 ,ky41 but 
for many years a resident of            
,california4 ,he is the  proprietor of a
 rancho in the vicinity4 ,we determined 
to leave our  mules in charge of ,mr4   
,cook's vaquero1 and proceed to ,san    
,francisco on  hired horses4 ,the       
distance from the ,pueblo de ,san ,jos  
to ,san ,francisco  is called sixty     
miles4 ,the time occupied in performing 
the journey1 on  ,californian horses at 

,californian speed1 is generally six or 
seven  hours4 ,procuring horses for the 
journey1 and leaving our baggage1 with  
the exception of a change of clothing1  
we left the ,pueblo about eleven        
o'clock ,a4,m4    ,the mission of ,santa
 ,clara is situated about two and a half
 miles from  the town4 ,a broad alameda1
 shaded by stately trees 7elms and      
willows71 planted by the padres1 extends
 nearly the entire distance1  forming a 
most beautiful drive or walk for        
equestrians or pedestrians4  ,the motive
 of the padres in planting this avenue  
was to afford the  devout senoras and   
senoritas a shade from the sun1 when    
walking from  the ,pueblo to the church 
at the mission to attend mass4 ,a few   
minutes  over the smooth level road1 at 
the rapid speed of our fresh            
,californian  horses1 brought us to the 
mission1 where we halted to make our    
observations4 ,this mission is not so   
extensive in its buildings as that  of  
,san ,jos1 but the houses are generally 

in better repair4 ,they are  constructed
 of adobes2 the church was open1 and1   
entering the interior1  ,i found the    
walls hung with coarse paintings and    
engravings of the  saints1 etc41 etc4   
,the chancel decorated with numerous    
images1 and  symbolical ornaments used  
by the priests in their worship4        
,gold-paper1  and tinsel1 in barbaric   
taste1 are plastered without stint upon 
nearly  every object that meets the eye1
 so that1 when on festive occasions the 
church is lighted1 it must present a    
very glittering appearance4    ,the rich
 lands surrounding the mission are      
entirely neglected4 ,i did  not notice a
 foot of ground under cultivation1      
except the garden  inclosure1 which     
contained a variety of fruits and plants
 of the  temperate and tropical         
climates4 ,from want of care these are  
fast  decaying4 ,some excellent pears   
were furnished us by ,mrs4 ,bennett1 an 
,american lady1 of ,amazonian           
proportions1 who1 with her family of    

sons1  has taken up her residence in one
 of the buildings of the mission4 ,the  
picture of decay and ruin presented by  
this once flourishing  establishment1   
surrounded by a country so fertile and  
scenery so  enchanting1 is a most       
melancholy spectacle to the passing     
traveller1  and speaks a language of    
loud condemnation against the           
government4    ,proceeding on our       
journey1 we travelled fifteen miles over
 a flat  plain1 timbered with groves and
 parks of evergreen oaks1 and covered   
with a great variety of grasses1 wild   
oats1 and mustard4 ,so rank is the      
growth of mustard in many places1 that  
it is with difficulty that a  horse can 
penetrate through it4 ,numerous birds   
flitted from tree to  tree1 making the  
groves musical with their harmonious    
notes4 ,the  black-tailed deer bounded  
frequently across our path1 and the     
lurking  and stealthy coyotes were      
continually in view4 ,we halted at a    
small  cabin1 with a corral near it1 in 

order to breathe our horses1 and        
refresh ourselves4 ,captain ,fisher had 
kindly filled a small sack with  bread1 
cheese1 roasted beef1 and a small jug of
 excellent schiedam4  ,entering the     
cabin1 the interior of which was        
cleanly1 we found a  solitary woman1    
young1 neatly dressed1 and displaying   
many personal  charms4 ,with the        
characteristic ease and grace of a      
,spanish woman1 she  gave the usual     
salutation for the hour of the day1     
,buenas tardes1  senores caballeros2 to 
which we responded by a suitable        
salutation4  ,we requested of our       
hostess some water1 which she furnished 
us  immediately1 in an earthen bowl4    
,opening our sack of provisions1 we     
spread them upon the table1 and invited 
the senora to partake of them  with us1 
which invitation she accepted without   
the slightest  hesitation1 and with much
 good-nature1 vivacity1 and even        
thankfulness  for our politeness4 ,there
 are no women in the world for whose    

manners  nature has done so much1 and   
for whom art and education1 in this     
respect1 have done so little1 as these  
,hispano-,american females on the  coast
 of the ,pacific4 ,in their deportment  
towards strangers they are  queens1     
when1 in costume1 they are peasants4    
,none of them1 according to  our tastes1
 can be called beautiful2 but what they 
want in complexion  and regularity of   
feature is fully supplied by their      
kindliness1 the  soul and sympathy which
 beam from their dark eyes1 and their   
grace and  warmth of manners and        
expression4    ,while enjoying the      
pic-nic with our agreeable hostess1 a   
caballada  was driven into the corral by
 two vaqueros1 and two gentlemen soon   
after came into the house4 ,they were   
,messrs4 ,lightson and ,murphy1 from    
the ,pueblo1 bound for ,san ,francisco1 
and had stopped to change their  horses4
 ,we immediately made ready to accompany
 them1 and were soon on  the road again1
 travelling at racehorse speed2 these   

gentlemen having  furnished us with a   
change of horses1 in order that we might
 be able to  keep up with them4    ,to  
account for the fast travelling in      
,california on horseback1 it is         
necessary to explain the mode by which  
it is accomplished4 ,a gentleman  who   
starts upon a journey of one hundred    
miles1 and wishes to perform  the trip  
in a day1 will take with him ten fresh  
horses and a vaquero4  ,the eight loose 
horses are placed under the charge of   
the vaquero1  and are driven in front1  
at the rate of ten or twelve miles an   
hour1  according to the speed that is   
required for the journey4 ,at the end of
  twenty miles1 the horses which have   
been rode are discharged and turned     
into the caballada1 and horses which    
have not been rode1 but driven  along   
without weight1 are saddled and mounted 
and rode at the same  speed1 and so on  
to the end of the journey4 ,if a horse  
gives out from  inability to proceed at 
this gait1 he is left on the road4 ,the 

owner's  brand is on him1 and1 if of any
 value1 he can be recovered without     
difficulty4 ,but in ,california no one  
thinks of stopping on the road1 on      
account of the loss of a horse1 or his  
inability to travel at the rate  of ten 
or twelve miles an hour4 ,horseflesh is 
cheap1 and the animal  must go as long  
as he can1 and when he cannot travel    
longer he is left1  and another horse is
 substituted4    ,twenty-five miles1 at 
a rapid gait over a level and fertile   
plain1  brought us to the rancho of ,don
 ,francisco ,sanchez1 where we halted to
  change horses4 ,breathing our animals 
a short time1 we resumed our  journey1  
and reached the mission of ,san         
,francisco ,dolores1 three miles  from  
the town of ,san ,francisco1 just after 
sunset4 ,between the mission  and the   
town the road is very sandy1 and we     
determined to remain here  for the      
night1 corraling the loose animals1 and 
picketing those we  rode4 ,it was some  
time1 however1 before we could find a   

house to lodge  in4 ,the foreign        
occupants of the mission buildings1 to  
whom we applied  for accommodations for 
the night1 gave us no satisfaction4     
,after  several applications1 we were at
 last accommodated by an old and very   
poor ,californian ,spaniard1 who        
inhabited a small house in one of the   
ruinous squares1 formerly occupied by   
the operative ,indians4 ,all that he    
had 7and it was but little7 was at our  
disposal4 ,a more miserable  supper ,i  
never sat down to2 but the spirit of    
genuine hospitality in  which it was    
given imparted to the poor viands a     
flavour that rendered  the entertainment
 almost sumptuous--in my imagination4 ,a
 cup of water  cheerfully given to the  
weary and thirsty traveller1 by him who 
has no  more to part with1 is worth a   
cask of wine grudgingly bestowed by the 
stingy or the ostentatious churl4       
,notwithstanding we preferred sleeping  
on our own blankets1 these poor people  
would not suffer us to do it1  but      

spread their own pallets on the earth   
floor of their miserable hut1  and      
insisted so strongly upon our occupying 
them1 that we could not  refuse4        
,september #ba4--,we rose at daylight4  
,the morning was clear1 and our  horses 
were shivering with the cold4 ,the      
mission of ,san ,francisco is  situated 
at the northern terminus of the fertile 
plain over which we  travelled          
yesterday1 and at the foot1 on the      
eastern side1 of the coast  range of    
mountains4 ,these mountains are of      
considerable elevation4 ,the  shore of  
the ,bay of ,san ,francisco is about two
 miles distant from the  mission4 ,an   
arroyo waters the mission lands1 and    
empties into the  bay4 ,the church of   
the mission1 and the main buildings     
contiguous1 are  in tolerable repair4   
,in the latter1 several ,mormon         
families1 which  arrived in the ship    
,brooklyn from ,new ,york1 are          
quartered4 ,as in the  other missions ,i
 have passed through1 the ,indian       

quarters are crumbling  into shapeless  
heaps of mud4    ,our aged host1        
notwithstanding he is a pious ,catholic1
 and considers us  as heretics and      
heathens1 gave us his benediction in a  
very impressive  manner when we were    
about to start4 ,mounting our horses at 
sunrise1 we  travelled three miles over 
low ridges of sand-hills1 with          
sufficient  soil1 however1 to produce a 
thick growth of scrubby evergreen oak1  
and  brambles of hawthorn1 wild currant 
and gooseberry bushes1 rose bushes1     
briers1 etc4 ,we reached the residence  
of ,wm4 ,a4 ,leidesdorff1 ,esq41 late   
,american vice-consul at ,san           
,francisco1 when the sun was about an   
hour  high4 ,the morning was calm and   
beautiful4 ,not a ripple disturbed the  
placid and glassy surface of the        
magnificent bay and harbour1 upon  which
 rested at anchor thirty large vessels1 
consisting of whalemen1  merchantmen1   
and the ,u4,s4 sloop-of-war ,portsmouth1
 ,captain ,montgomery4  ,besides these1 

there were numerous small craft1 giving 
to the harbour a  commercial air1 of    
which some of the large cities on the   
,atlantic coast  would feel vain4 ,the  
bay1 from the town of ,san ,francisco   
due east1 is  about twelve miles in     
breadth4 ,an elevated range of hills    
bounds the  view on the opposite side4  
,these slope gradually down1 and between
 them  and the shore there is a broad   
and fertile plain1 which is called the  
,contra ,costa4 ,there are several small
 islands in the bay1 but they do  not   
present a fertile appearance to the eye4
    ,we were received with every mark of
 respectful attention and cordial       
hospitality by ,mr4 ,leidesdorff4 ,mr4  
,l4 is a native of ,denmark2 was for    
some years a resident of the ,united    
,states2 but subsequently the  captain  
of a merchant vessel1 and has been      
established at this place as  a merchant
 some five or six years4 ,the house in  
which he resides1 now  under the process
 of completion1 is the largest private  

building in the  town4 ,being shown to a
 well-furnished room1 we changed our    
travel-soiled clothing for a more       
civilized costume1 by which time        
breakfast was announced1 and we were    
ushered into a large dining-hall4  ,in  
the centre stood a table1 upon which was
 spread a substantial  breakfast of     
stewed and fried beef1 fried onions1 and
 potatoes1 bread1  butter1 and coffee4  
,our appetites were very sharp1 and we  
did full  justice to the merits of the  
fare before us4 ,the servants waiting   
upon  the table were an ,indian         
muchachito and muchachita1 about ten or 
twelve years of age4 ,they had not been 
long from their wild  rancherias1 and   
knew but little of civilized life4 ,our 
host1 however1  who speaks1 ,i believe1 
nearly every living language1 whether of
  ,christian1 barbarian1 or savage      
nations1 seemed determined to impress   
upon their dull intellects the forms and
 customs of civilization4 ,he  scolded  
them with great vivacity1 sometimes in  

their own tongue1  sometimes in ,french1
 ,spanish1 ,portuguese1 ,danish1        
,german1 and ,english1  in accordance   
with the language in which he was       
thinking at the moment4  ,it seemed to  
me that the little fat ,indians were    
more confused than  enlightened by his  
emphatic instructions4 ,at the table1   
besides  ourselves and host1 was        
,lieutenant ,w4,a4 ,bartlett1 of the    
,u4,s4  sloop-of-war ,portsmouth1 now   
acting as ,alcalde of the town and      
district  of ,san ,francisco4    ,the   
,portsmouth1 ,commander ,montgomery1 is 
the only ,united ,states vessel  of war 
now lying in the harbour4 ,she is       
regarded as the finest vessel  of her   
class belonging to our navy4 ,by        
invitation of ,lieutenant  ,bartlett1 ,i
 went on board of her between ten and   
eleven o'clock4 ,the  crew and officers 
were assembled on deck to attend ,divine
 service4 ,they  were all dressed with  
great neatness1 and seemed to listen    
with deep  attention to the ,episcopal  

service and a sermon1 which were read by
  ,commander ,montgomery1 who is a      
member of the church4    ,in the        
afternoon ,i walked to the summit of one
 of the elevated hills in  the vicinity 
of the town1 from which ,i had a view of
 the entrance to  the bay of ,san       
,francisco and of the ,pacific ,ocean4  
,a thick fog hung  over the ocean       
outside of the bay4 ,the deep roar of   
the eternally  restless waves1 as they  
broke one after another upon the beach1 
or  dashed against the rock-bound shore1
 could be heard with great              
distinctness1 although some five or six 
miles distant4 ,the entrance  from the  
ocean into the bay is about a mile and  
half in breadth4 ,the  waters of the bay
 appear to have forced a passage through
 the elevated  ridge of hills next to   
the shore of the ,pacific4 ,these rise  
abruptly on  either side of the         
entrance4 ,the water at the entrance and
 inside is of  sufficient depth to admit
 the largest ship that was ever         

constructed2  and so completely         
land-locked and protected from the winds
 is the  harbour1 that vessels can ride 
at anchor in perfect safety in all kinds
  of weather4 ,the capacity of the      
harbour is sufficient for the           
accommodation of all the navies of the  
world4    ,the town of ,san ,francisco  
is situated on the south side of the    
entrance1 fronting on the bay1 and about
 six miles from the ocean4 ,the  flow   
and ebb of the tide are sufficient to   
bring a vessel to the  anchorage in     
front of the town and carry it outside1 
without the aid of  wind1 or even       
against an unfavourable wind4 ,a more   
approachable  harbour1 or one of greater
 security1 is unknown to navigators4    
,the  permanent population of the town  
is at this time between one and two     
hundred1#a and is composed almost       
exclusively of foreigners4 ,there are   
but two or three native ,californian    
families in the place4 ,the  transient  
population1 and at present it is quite  

numerous1 consists of  the garrison of  
marines stationed here1 and the officers
 and crews  attached to the merchant and
 whale ships lying in the harbour4 ,the 
houses1 with a few exceptions1 are small
 adobes and frames1 constructed  without
 regard to architectural taste1         
convenience1 or comfort4 ,very  few of  
them have either chimneys or            
fire-places4 ,the inhabitants  contrive 
to live the year round without fires1   
except for cooking4 ,the  position of   
,san ,francisco for commerce is1 without
 doubt1 superior to  any other port on  
the ,pacific coast of ,north ,america4  
,the country  contiguous and            
contributory to it cannot be surpassed  
in fertility1  healthfulness of climate1
 and beauty of scenery4 ,it is capable  
of  producing whatever is necessary to  
the sustenance of man1 and many of  the 
luxuries of tropical climates1 not      
taking into the account the  mineral    
wealth of the surrounding hills and     
mountains1 which there is  reason to    

believe is very great4 ,this place is1  
doubtless1 destined to  become one of   
the largest and most opulent commercial 
cities in the  world1 and under         
,american authority it will rise with   
astonishing  rapidity4 ,the principal   
merchants now established here are      
,messrs4  ,leidesdorff1 ,grimes and     
,davis1 and ,frank ,ward1 a young       
gentleman  recently from ,new ,york4    
,these houses carry on an extensive and 
profitable commerce with the interior1  
the ,sandwich ,islands1 ,oregon1  and   
the southern coast of the ,pacific4 ,the
 produce of ,oregon for  exportation is 
flour1 lumber1 salmon1 and cheese2 of   
the ,sandwich  ,islands1 sugar1 coffee1 
and preserved tropical fruits4          
,california1 until recently1 has had no 
commerce1 in the broad  signification of
 the term4 ,a few commercial houses of  
,boston and ,new  ,york have monopolized
 all the trade on this coast for a      
number of  years4 ,these houses have    
sent out ships freighted with cargoes of

 dry  goods and a variety of            
knick-knacks saleable in the country4   
,the  ships are fitted up for the retail
 sale of these articles1 and trade  from
 port to port1 vending their wares on   
board to the rancheros at  prices that  
would be astonishing at home4 ,for      
instance1 the price of  common brown    
cotton cloth is one dollar per yard1 and
 other articles in  this and even       
greater proportion of advance upon home 
prices4 ,they  receive in payment for   
their wares1 hides and tallow4 ,the     
price of a  dry hide is ordinarily one  
dollar and fifty cents4 ,the price of   
tallow  ,i do not know4 ,when the ship  
has disposed of her cargo1 she is loaded
  with hides1 and returns to ,boston1   
where the hides bring about four or     
five dollars1 according to the          
fluctuations of the market4 ,immense    
fortunes have been made by this trade2  
and between the government of  ,mexico  
and the traders on the coast ,california
 has been literally  skinned1 annually1 

for the last thirty years4 ,of natural  
wealth the  population of ,california   
possess a superabundance1 and are       
immensely  rich2 still1 such have been  
the extortionate prices that they have  
been  compelled to pay for their        
commonest artificial luxuries and       
wearing-apparel1 that generally they are
 but indifferently provided  with the   
ordinary necessaries of civilized life4 
,for a suit of clothes1  which in ,new  
,york or ,boston would cost seventy-five
 dollars1 the  ,californian has been    
compelled to pay five times that sum in 
hides at  one dollar and fifty cents2 so
 that a caballero1 to clothe himself    
genteelly1 has been obliged1 as often as
 he renewed his dress1 to  sacrifice    
about two hundred of the cattle on his  
rancho4 ,no people1  whether males or   
females1 are more fond of display2 no   
people have paid  more dearly to gratify
 this vanity2 and yet no civilized      
people ,i have  seen are so deficient in
 what they most covet4      #a ,this was

 in ,september1 #ahdf4 ,in ,june1 #ahdg1
 when ,i left ,san        ,francisco1 on
 my return to the ,united ,states1 the  
population had        increased to about
 twelve hundred1 and houses were rising 
in all        directions4               
,,chapter ,,iv4      ,climate of ,san   
,francisco    ,periodical winds    ,dine
 on board the ,portsmouth    ,a supper  
party on shore    ,arrival of ,commodore
 ,stockton at ,san ,francisco           
,rumours of rebellion from the south    
,californian court    ,trial by jury    
,fandango    ,californian belles        
,american pioneers of the ,pacific      
,reception of ,commodore ,stockton      
,sitca    ,captain ,fremont leaves ,san 
,francisco for the south    ,offer our  
services as volunteers4      ,from the  
#bast of ,september to the #acth of     
,october ,i remained at ,san            
,francisco4 ,the weather during this    
period was uniformly clear4 ,the        
climate of ,san ,francisco is peculiar  
and local1 from its position4  ,during  

the summer and autumnal months1 the wind
 on this coast blows  from the west and 
northwest1 directly from the ocean4 ,the
 mornings here  are usually calm and    
pleasantly warm4 ,about twelve o'clock  
,m41 the wind  blows strong from the    
ocean1 through the entrance of the bay1 
rendering  the temperature cool enough  
for woollen clothing in midsummer4      
,about  sunset the wind dies away1 and  
the evenings and nights are             
comparatively  calm4 ,in the winter     
months the wind blows in soft and gentle
 breezes  from the south-east1 and the  
temperature is agreeable1 the           
thermometer  rarely sinking below #ej   
deg4 ,when the winds blow from the      
ocean1 it  never rains2 when they blow  
from the land1 as they do during the    
winter  and spring months1 the weather  
is showery1 and resembles that of the   
month of ,may in the same latitude on   
the ,atlantic coast4 ,the coolness  of  
the climate and briskness of the air    
above described are confined to         

particular positions on the coast1 and  
the description in this respect  is not 
applicable to the interior of the       
country1 nor even to other  localities  
immediately on the coast4    ,on the    
#bast1 by invitation of ,captain        
,montgomery1 ,i dined on board of  the  
sloop-of-war ,portsmouth4 ,the party1   
including myself1 consisted of  ,colonel
 ,russell1 ,mr4 ,jacob1 ,lieutenant     
,bartlett1 and a son of ,captain  ,m4   
,there are few if any officers in our   
navy more highly and  universally       
esteemed1 for their moral qualities and 
professional  merits1 than ,captain ,m4 
,he is a sincere ,christian1 a brave    
officer1 and  an accomplished gentleman4
 ,under the orders of ,commodore ,sloat1
 he  first raised the ,american flag in 
,san ,francisco4 ,we spent the afternoon
  most agreeably1 and the refined       
hospitality1 courteous manners1 and     
intelligent and interesting conversation
 of our host made us regret the  rapidly
 fleeting moments4 ,the wines on the    

table were the produce of  the vine of  
,california1 and1 having attained age1  
were of an excellent  quality in        
substance and flavour4    ,i attended a 
supper-party given this evening by ,mr4 
,frank ,ward4 ,the  party was composed  
of citizens of the town1 and officers of
 the navy  and the merchant and whale   
ships in the harbour4 ,in such a company
 as  was here assembled1 it was very    
difficult for me to realize that ,i was 
many thousand miles from1 home1 in a    
strange and foreign country4 ,all  the  
faces about me were ,american1 and there
 was nothing in scene or  sentiment to  
remind the guests of their remoteness   
from their native  shores4 ,indeed1 it  
seems to be a settled opinion1 that     
,california is  henceforth to compose a 
part of the ,united ,states1 and every  
,american  who is now here considers    
himself as treading upon his own soil1  
as  much as if he were in one of the old
 thirteen revolutionary states4  ,song1 
sentiment1 story1 and wit heightened the

 enjoyments of the  excellent           
entertainment of our host1 and the      
jovial party did not  separate until a  
late hour of the night4 ,the guests1 as 
may be  supposed1 were composed chiefly 
of gentlemen who had1 from their        
pursuits1 travelled over most of the    
world--had seen developments of  human  
character under every variety of        
circumstance1 and observed  society1    
civilized1 barbarous1 and savage1 in all
 its phases4 ,their  conversation1      
therefore1 when around the convivial    
board1 possessed an  unhackneyed        
freshness and raciness highly           
entertaining and instructive4    ,on the
 #bgth of ,september1 the ,u4,s4 frigate
 ,congress1 ,captain  ,livingston1      
bearing the broad pennant of ,commodore 
,stockton1 and the  ,u4,s4 frigate      
,savannah1 ,captain ,mervine1 anchored  
in the harbour1 having  sailed from     
,monterey a day or two previously4 ,the 
arrival of these  large men-of-war      
produced an increase of the bustle in   

the small town4  ,blue coats and bright 
buttons 7the naval uniform7 became the  
prevailing  costume at the              
billiard-rooms and other public places1 
and the plain  dress of a private       
citizen might be regarded as a badge of 
distinction4    ,on the #ast of ,october
 a courier arrived from the south with  
intelligence that the ,californians at  
,los ,angeles had organized a force  and
 rebelled against the authority of the  
,americans--that they had also  captured
 an ,american merchant-vessel lying at  
,san ,pedro1 the port of  the city of   
,angels1 about thirty miles distant1 and
 robbed it of a  quantity of merchandise
 and specie4 ,whether this latter report
 was or  was not true1 ,i do not        
know--the former was correct4 ,the      
frigate  ,savannah sailed for ,los      
,angeles immediately4    ,among those   
,american naval officers whose agreeable
 acquaintance ,i made  at ,san          
,francisco1 was ,mr4 ,james ,f4         
,schenck1 first-lieutenant of the       

frigate ,congress1 brother of the       
distinguished member of congress from   
,ohio of that name1--a native of        
,dayton1 ,ohio1--a gentleman of         
intelligence1 keen wit1 and a most      
accomplished officer4 ,the officers  of 
our navy are our representatives in     
foreign countries1 and they are         
generally such representatives as their 
constituents have reason to  feel proud 
of4 ,their chivalry1 patriotism1        
gentlemanlike deportment1  and          
professional skill cannot be too much   
admired and applauded by  their         
countrymen4 ,i shall ever feel grateful 
to the naval officers of  the ,pacific  
squadron for their numerous civilities  
during my sojourn on  the ,pacific      
coast4    ,among the novelties presented
 while at ,san ,francisco was a trial by
  jury--the second tribunal of this kind
 which had been organized in            
,california4 ,the trial look place      
before ,judge ,bartlett1 and the        
litigants were two ,mormons4 ,counsel   

was employed on both sides4 ,some of    
the forms of ,american judicial         
proceedings were observed1 and many of  
the legal technicalities and nice flaws1
 so often urged in common-law  courts1  
were here argued by the learned counsel 
of the parties1 with a  vehemence of    
language and gesticulation with which ,i
 thought the legal  learning and acumen 
displayed did not correspond4 ,the      
proceedings were  a mixture1 made up of 
common law1 equity1 and a sprinkling of 
military  despotism--which last         
ingredient the court was compelled to   
employ1  when entangled in the intricate
 meshes woven by the counsel for the    
litigants1 in order to extricate itself4
 ,the jury1 after the case was  referred
 to them1 were what is called hung2 they
 could not agree1 and  the matters in   
issue1 therefore1 remained exactly where
 they were  before the proceedings were 
commenced4    ,i attended one evening a 
fandango given by ,mr4 ,ridley1 an      
,english  gentleman1 whose wife is a    

,californian lady4 ,several of the      
senoras and  senoritas from the ranchos 
of the vicinity were present4 ,the      
,californian ladies dance with much ease
 and grace4 ,the waltz appears to  be a 
favourite with them4 ,smoking is not    
prohibited in these  assemblies1 nor is 
it confined to the gentlemen4 ,the      
cigarita is  freely used by the senoras 
and senoritas1 and they puff it with    
much  gusto while threading the mazes of
 the cotillion or swinging in the       
waltz4    ,i had the pleasure of being  
introduced1 at the residence of ,mr4    
,leidesdorff1 to two young ladies1      
sisters and belles in ,alta             
,california4 ,they are members of an old
 and numerous family on the  ,contra    
,costa4 ,their names are singular       
indeed1 for1 if ,i heard them           
correctly1 one of them was called ,donna
 ,maria ,jesus1 and the other  ,donna   
,maria ,conception4 ,they were          
interesting and graceful young  ladies1 
with regular features1 symmetrical      

figures1 and their dark eyes  flashed   
with all the intelligence and passion   
characteristic of ,spanish  women4      
,among the gentlemen with whom ,i met   
soon after my arrival at ,san           
,francisco1 and whoso acquaintance ,i   
afterwards cultivated1 were ,mr4 ,e4    
,grimes and ,mr4 ,n4 ,spear1 both       
natives of ,massachusetts1 but residents
  of this coast and of the ,pacific     
,islands1 for many years4 ,they may be  
called the patriarchs of ,american      
pioneers on the ,pacific4 ,after        
forming an acquaintance with ,mr4 ,g41  
if any one were to say to me that       
,old ,grimes is dead1 that good old man1
    ,i should not hesitate to contradict
 him with emphasis2 for he is still     
living1 and possesses all the charities 
and virtues which can adorn  human      
nature1 with some of the eccentricities 
of his name-sake in the  song4 ,by      
leading a life of peril and adventure on
 the ,pacific ,ocean for  fifty years he
 has accumulated a large fortune1 and is

 a man now  proverbial for his          
integrity1 candour1 and charities4 ,both
 of these  gentlemen have been largely  
engaged in the local commerce of the    
,pacific4 ,mr4 ,s41 some twenty-five or 
thirty years ago1 colonized one of  the 
,cannibal ,islands1 and remained upon it
 with the colony for nearly  two years4 
,the attempt to introduce agriculture   
into the island was a  failure1 and the 
enterprise was afterwards abandoned4    
,on the evening of the third of         
,october1 it having been announced that 
,commodore ,stockton would land on the  
fifth1 a public meeting of the  citizens
 was called by the alcalde1 for the     
purpose of adopting  suitable           
arrangements for his reception1 in his  
civic capacity as  governor4 ,the       
meeting was convened in the plaza       
7,portsmouth ,square74  ,colonel        
,russell was appointed chairman1 and on 
motion of ,e4 ,bryant a  committee was  
appointed to make all necessary and     
suitable arrangements  for the reception

 of his excellency1 ,governor ,stockton4
 ,the following  account of this pageant
 ,i extract from the ,california        
newspaper of  ,october #bdth1 #ahdf4    
,agreeable to public notice1 a large    
number of the citizens of ,san          
,francisco and vicinity assembled in    
,portsmouth ,square for the purpose  of 
meeting his excellency ,robert ,f4      
,stockton1 to welcome his arrival1  and 
offer him the hospitalities of the city4
 ,at ten o'clock1 a  procession was     
formed1 led by the ,chief ,marshal of   
the day1 supported  on either hand by   
two aids1 followed by an excellent band 
of music--a  military escort1 under     
command of ,captain ,j4 ,zeilen1        
,u4,s4,m4,c4--,captain  ,john ,b4       
,montgomery and suite--,magistracy of   
the ,district1 and the  ,orator of the  
day--,foreign ,consuls--,captain ,john  
,paty1 ,senior ,captain  of the         
,hawanian ,navy--,lieutenant-,commanding
 ,ruducoff1 ,russian ,navy1 and         
,lieutenant-,commanding ,bonnett1       

,french ,navy4 ,the procession was      
closed  by the ,committee of            
,arrangements1 captains of ships in     
port1 and a long  line of citizens4     
,general ,mariano ,guadaloupe ,valljo1  
with several others who had held  office
 under the late government1 took their  
appropriate place in the  line4    ,the 
procession moved in fine style down     
,portsmouth ,street to the  landing1 and
 formed a line in ,water ,street4 ,the  
,governor-,general landed  from his     
barge1 and was met on the wharf by      
,captain ,john ,b4 ,montgomery1         
,u4,s4,n41 ,judge ,w4,a4 ,bartlett1 and 
,marshal of the day 7,frank ,ward71 who 
conducted him to the front of the line1 
and presented him to the  procession1   
through the orator of the day1 ,colonel 
,russell1 who  addressed the commodore4 
,when the governor and                  
commander-in-chief had closed his reply1
 the  procession moved through the      
principal streets1 and halted in front  
of  ,captain ,leidesdorff's residence1  

where the governor and suite entered1   
and was presented to a number of ladies1
 who welcomed him to the shores  of     
,california4 ,after which a large       
portion of the procession  accompanied  
the governor1 on horseback1 to the      
mission of ,san ,francisco  ,dolores1   
several miles in the country1 and       
returned to an excellent  collation     
prepared by the committee of            
arrangements1 at the house of  ,captain 
,leidesdorff4 ,after the cloth was      
removed1 the usual number of  regular   
toasts1 prepared by the committee of    
arrangements1 and numerous  volunteer   
sentiments by the members of the        
company1 were drunk with  many          
demonstrations of enthusiasm1 and       
several speeches were made4 ,in         
response to a complimentary toast1      
,commodore ,stockton made an eloquent   
address of an hour's length4 ,the toasts
 given in ,english were  translated into
 ,spanish1 and those given in ,spanish  
were translated  into ,english4 ,a ball 

in honour of the occasion was given by  
the  committee of arrangements in the   
evening1 which was attended by all the  
ladies1 native and foreign1 in the town 
and vicinity1 the naval  officers       
attached to the three ships of war1 and 
the captains of the  merchant vessels   
lying in the harbour4 ,so seductive were
 the  festivities of the day and the    
pleasures of the dance1 that they were  
not closed until a late hour of the     
night1 or rather until an early  hour in
 the morning4    ,among the numerous    
vessels of many nations at anchor in the
 harbour is  a ,russian brig from       
,sitca1 the central port of the         
,russian-,american ,fur  ,company1 on   
the northwestern coast of this          
continent4 ,she is commanded  by        
,lieutenant ,ruducoff of the ,russian   
navy1 and is here to be freighted  with 
wheat to supply that settlement with    
breadstuff4 ,sitca is situated  in a    
high northern latitude1 and has a       
population of some four or five         

thousand inhabitants4 ,a large portion  
of these1 ,i conjecture1 are            
christianized natives or ,indians4 ,many
 of the crew of this vessel are  the    
aborigines of the country to which she  
belongs1 and from which she  last       
sailed4 ,i noticed1 however1 from an    
inscription1 that the brig was  built at
 ,newburyport1 ,massachusetts1 showing  
that the autocrat of all  the ,russias  
is tributary1 to some extent1 to the    
free ,yankees of ,new  ,england for his 
naval equipment4 ,on the #aath of       
,october1 by invitation  of ,lieutenant 
,ruducoff1 in company of ,mr4 ,jacob and
 ,captain  ,leidesdorff1 ,i dined on    
board this vessel4 ,the ,russian customs
 are in  some respects peculiar4 ,soon  
after we reached the vessel and were    
shown  into the cabin1 a lunch was      
served up4 ,this consisted of a variety 
of  dried and smoked fish1 pickled      
fish-roe1 and other hyperborean pickles1
  the nature of which1 whether animal or
 vegetable1 ,i could not  determine4    

,various wines and liquors accompanied  
this lunch1 the  discussion of which    
lasted until an ,indian servant1 a      
native of the  north-pole1 or           
thereabouts1 announced dinner4 ,we were 
then shown into a  handsomely furnished 
dining-cabin1 where the table was       
spread4 ,the  dinner consisted of       
several courses1 some of which were     
peculiarly  ,russian or ,sitcan1 and ,i 
regret that my culinary knowledge is not
 equal  to the task of describing them1 
for the benefit of epicures of a more   
southern region than the place of their 
invention4 ,they were certainly  very   
delightful to the palate4 ,the afternoon
 glided away most  agreeably4    ,on the
 #abth of ,october1 ,captain ,fremont1  
with a number of volunteers  destined   
for the south1 to co-operate with       
,commodore ,stockton in the  suppression
 of the reported rebellion at ,los      
,angeles1 arrived at ,san  ,francisco   
from the ,sacramento4 ,i had previously 
offered my services1  and ,mr4 ,jacob   

had done the same1 to ,commodore        
,stockton1 as volunteers  in this       
expedition1 if they were necessary or   
desirable4 ,they were now  repeated4    
,although travellers in the country1 we 
were ,american  citizens1 and we felt   
under obligation to assist in defending 
the flag  of our country wherever it had
 been planted by proper authority4 ,at  
this time we were given to understand   
that a larger force than was  already   
organised was not considered necessary  
for the expedition4          ,,chapter  
,v4      ,leave ,san ,francisco for     
,sonoma    ,sonoma creek    ,bear men4  
,islands in the bay    ,liberality of   
,uncle ,sam to sailors    ,sonoma       
,beautiful country    ,general ,valljo  
,senora ,valljo    ,thomas ,o4 ,larkin1 
,u4,s4 ,consul    ,signs of rain    ,the
 seasons in ,california    ,more warlike
 rumours from the south    ,mission of  
,san ,rafael    ,an ,irish ranchero     
,sausolito    ,return to ,san ,francisco
    ,meet ,lippincott    ,discomfort of 

,californian houses4      ,october      
#ac4--,this morning the ,united ,states 
frigate ,congress1  ,commodore          
,stockton1 and the merchant-ship        
,sterling1 employed to  transport the   
volunteers under the command of ,captain
 ,fremont 7one  hundred and eighty in   
number71 sailed for the south4 ,the     
destination of  these vessels was       
understood to be ,san ,pedro or ,san    
,diego4 ,while those  vessels were      
leaving the harbour1 accompanied by ,mr4
 ,jacob1 ,i took  passage for ,sonoma in
 a cutter belonging to the sloop-of-war 
,portsmouth4 ,sonoma is situated on the 
northern side of the ,bay of ,san       
,francisco1 about #ae miles from the    
shore1 and about #de miles from the     
town of ,san ,francisco4 ,sonoma creek  
is navigable for vessels of             
considerable burden to within four miles
 of the town4    ,among the passengers  
in the boat were ,mr4 ,ide1 who acted so
 conspicuous  a part in what is called  
the ,bear ,revolution1 and ,messrs4     

,nash and  ,grigsby1 who were likewise  
prominent in this movement4 ,the boat   
was  manned by six sailors and a        
cockswain4 ,we passed ,yerba ,buena1    
,bird1 and  several other small islands 
in the bay4 ,some of these are white1 as
 if  covered with snow1 from the deposit
 upon them of bird-manure4 ,tens of     
thousands of wild geese1 ducks1 gulls1  
and other water-fowls1 were  perched    
upon them1 or sporting in the waters of 
the bay1 making a  prodigious cackling  
and clatter with their voices and wings4
 ,by the aid  of oars and sails we      
reached the mouth of ,sonoma creek about
 #i o'clock  at night1 where we landed  
and encamped on the low marsh which     
borders  the bay on this side4 ,the     
marshes contiguous to the ,bay of ,san  
,francisco are extensive1 and with      
little trouble ,i believe they could  be
 reclaimed and transformed into valuable
 and productive rice  plantations4      
,having made our supper on raw salt pork
 and bread  generously furnished by the 

sailors1 as soon as we landed1 we spread
  our blankets on the damp and rank     
vegetation and slept soundly until      
morning4    ,october #ad4--,wind and    
tide being favourable1 at daylight we   
proceeded  up the serpentine creek1     
which winds through a flat and fertile  
plain1  sometimes marshy1 at others more
 elevated and dry1 to the  embarcadero1 
ten or twelve miles from the bay4 ,we   
landed here between  nine and ten       
o'clock1 ,a4,m4 ,all the passengers1    
except ourselves1  proceeded immediately
 to the town4 ,by them we sent for a    
cart to  transport our saddles1 bridles1
 blankets1 and other baggage1 which we  
had brought with us4 ,while some of the 
sailors were preparing  breakfast1      
others1 with their muskets1 shot wild   
geese1 with which the  plain was        
covered4 ,an excellent breakfast was    
prepared in a short time  by our sailor 
companions1 of which we partook with    
them4 ,no benevolent  old gentleman     
provides more bountifully for his       

servants than ,uncle  ,sam4 ,these      
sailors1 from the regular rations served
 out to them from  their ship1 gave an  
excellent breakfast1 of bread1 butter1  
coffee1 tea1  fresh beefsteaks1 fried   
salt pork1 cheese1 pickles1 and a       
variety of  other delicacies1 to which  
we had been unaccustomed for several    
months1  and which cannot be obtained at
 present in this country4 ,they all said
  that their rations were more than     
ample in quantity1 and excellent in     
quality1 and that no government was so  
generous in supplying its  sailors as   
the government of the ,united ,states4  
,they appeared to be  happy1 and        
contented with their condition and      
service1 and animated  with a patriotic 
pride for the honour of their country1  
and the flag  under which they sailed4  
,the open frankness and honest          
patriotism of  these single-hearted and 
weather-beaten tars gave a spice and    
flavour  to our entertainment which ,i  
shall not soon forget4    ,from the     

embarcadero we walked1 under the        
influence of the rays of an  almost     
broiling sun1 four miles to the town of 
,sonoma4 ,the plain1 which  lies between
 the landing and ,sonoma1 is timbered   
sparsely with  evergreen oaks4 ,the     
luxuriant grass is now brown and crisp4 
,the hills  surrounding this beautiful  
valley or plain are gentle1 sloping1    
highly  picturesque1 and covered to     
their tops with wild oats4 ,reaching    
,sonoma1  we procured lodgings in a     
large and half-finished adobe house1    
erected  by ,don ,salvador ,valljo1 but 
now occupied by ,mr4 ,griffith1 an      
,american  emigrant1 originally from    
,north ,carolina4 ,sonoma is one of the 
old  mission establishments of          
,california2 but there is now scarcely a
  mission building standing1 most of    
them having fallen into shapeless       
masses of mud2 and a few years will     
prostrate the roofless walls which  are 
now standing4 ,the principal houses in  
the place are the residences  of ,gen4  

,don ,mariano ,guadaloupe ,valljo2 his  
brother-in-law1 ,mr4 ,j4,p4  ,leese1 an 
,american2 and his brother1 ,don        
,salvador ,valljo4 ,the quartel1  a     
barn-like adobe house1 faces the public 
square4 ,the town presents a  most dull 
and ruinous appearance2 but the country 
surrounding it is  exuberantly fertile1 
and romantically picturesque1 and       
,sonoma1 under  ,american authority1 and
 with an ,american population1 will very
 soon  become a secondary commercial    
point1 and a delightful residence4 ,most
  of the buildings are erected around a 
plaza1 about two hundred yards  square4 
,the only ornaments in this square are  
numerous skulls and  dislocated         
skeletons of slaughtered beeves1 with   
which hideous remains  the ground is    
strewn4 ,cold and warm springs gush from
 the hills near  the town1 and supply1  
at all seasons1 a sufficiency of water  
to  irrigate any required extent of     
ground on the plain below4 ,i noticed   
outside of the square several groves of 

peach and other fruit trees1  and       
vineyards1 which were planted here by   
the padres2 but the walls  and fences   
that once surrounded them are now       
fallen1 or have been  consumed for fuel2
 and they are exposed to the mercies of 
the immense  herds of cattle which roam 
over and graze upon the plain4          
,october #ae4--;,i do not like to       
trouble the reader with a frequent      
reference to the myriads of fleas and   
other vermin which infest the           
rancherias and old mission              
establishments in ,california2 but1 if  
any  sinning soul ever suffered the     
punishments of purgatory before leaving 
its tenement of clay1 those torments    
were endured by myself last night4      
,when ,i rose from my blankets this     
morning1 after a sleepless night1 ,i  do
 not think there was an inch square of  
my body that did not exhibit  the       
inflammation consequent upon a puncture 
by a flea1 or some other  equally rabid 
and poisonous insect4 ,small-pox1       

erysipelas1 measles1 and  scarlet-fever 
combined1 could not have imparted to my 
skin a more  inflamed and sanguineous   
appearance4 ,the multitudes of these    
insects1  however1 have been generated  
by ,indian filthiness4 ,they do not     
disturb  the inmates of those casas     
where cleanliness prevails4    ,having  
letters of introduction to ,general     
,valljo and ,mr4 ,leese1 ,i  delivered  
them this morning4 ,general ,valljo is a
 native ,californian1  and a gentleman  
of intelligence and taste far superior  
to most of his  countrymen4 ,the        
interior of his house presented a       
different appearance  from any house    
occupied by native ,californians which  
,i have entered  since ,i have been in  
the country4 ,every apartment1 even the 
main  entrance-hall and corridors1 were 
scrupulously clean1 and presented an    
air of comfort which ,i have not        
elsewhere seen in ,california4 ,the     
parlour was furnished with handsome     
chairs1 sofas1 mirrors1 and tables1  of 

mahogany framework1 and a fine piano1   
the first ,i have seen in the  country4 
,several paintings and some superior    
engravings ornamented the  walls4       
,senora ,valljo is a lady of charming   
personal appearance1 and  possesses in  
the highest degree that natural grace1  
ease1 and warmth of  manner which render
 ,spanish ladies so attractive and      
fascinating to the  stranger4 ,the      
children1 some five or six in number1   
were all beautiful  and interesting4    
,general ,v4 is1 ,i believe1 strongly   
desirous that the  ,united ,states shall
 retain and annex ,california4 ,he is   
thoroughly  disgusted with ,mexican     
sway1 which is fast sending his country 
backwards1 instead of forwards1 in the  
scale of civilization1 and for  years he
 has been desirous of the change which  
has now taken place4    ,in the         
afternoon we visited the house of ,mr4  
,leese1 which is also  furnished in     
,american style4 ,mr4 ,l4 is the        
proprietor of a vineyard in  the        

vicinity of the town1 and we were       
regaled upon grapes as luscious1  ,i    
dare say1 as the forbidden fruit that   
provoked the first  transgression4      
,nothing of the fruit kind can exceed   
the delicious  richness and flavour1 of 
the ,california grape4    ,this evening 
,thomas ,o4 ,larkin1 ,esq41 late ,united
 ,states ,consul for  ,california1      
arrived here1 having left ,san          
,francisco on the same morning  that we 
did1 travelling by land4 ,mr4 ,l4       
resides in ,monterey1 but ,i had  the   
pleasure of an introduction to him at   
,san ,francisco several days  previously
 to my leaving that place4 ,mr4 ,l4 is a
 native of ,boston1 and  has been a     
resident in ,california for about       
fifteen years1 during which  time he has
 amassed a large fortune1 and from the  
changes now taking  place he is rapidly 
increasing it4 ,he will probably be the 
first  ,american millionnaire of        
,california4    ,october #ag4--,the last
 two mornings have been cloudy and cool4

 ,the  rainy season1 it is thought by   
the weather-wise in this climate1 will  
set in earlier this year than usual4    
,the periodical rains ordinarily        
commence about the middle of ,november4 
,it is now a month earlier1 and  the    
meteorological phenomena portend falling
 weather4 ,the rains  during the winter1
 in ,california1 are not continuous1 as 
is generally  supposed4 ,it sometimes   
rains during an entire day1 without     
cessation1  but most generally the      
weather is showery1 with intervals of   
bright  sunshine and a delightful       
temperature4 ,the first rains of the    
year fall  usually in ,november1 and the
 last about the middle of ,may4 ,as soon
 as  the ground becomes moistened1 the  
grass1 and other hardy vegetation1      
springs up1 and by the middle of        
,december the landscape is arrayed in a 
robe of fresh verdure4 ,the grasses grow
 through the entire winter1 and  most of
 them mature by the first of ,may4 ,the 
season for sowing wheat  commences as   

soon as the ground is sufficiently      
softened by moisture to  admit of       
ploughing1 and continues until ,march or
 ,april4    ,we had made preparations   
this morning to visit a rancho1         
belonging to  ,general ,valljo1 in      
company with the general and ,mr4       
,larkin4 ,this  rancho contains about   
eleven leagues of land1 bordering upon a
 portion  of the ,bay of ,san           
,francisco1 twenty-five or thirty miles 
distant from  ,sonoma4 ,just as we were 
about mounting our horses1 however1 a   
courier  arrived from ,san ,francisco   
with despatches from ,captain           
,montgomery1  addressed to ,lieutenant  
,revere1 the military commandant at this
 post1  giving such intelligence in     
regard to the insurrection at the south1
  that we determined to return to ,san  
,francisco forthwith4 ,procuring        
horses1 and accompanied by ,mr4 ,larkin1
 we left ,sonoma about two o'clock  in  
the afternoon1 riding at the usual      
,california speed4 ,after leaving       

,sonoma plain we crossed a ridge of     
hills1 and entered the fertile and      
picturesque valley of ,petaluma creek1  
which empties into the bay4  ,general   
,valljo has an extensive rancho in this 
valley1 upon which he  has recently     
erected1 at great expense1 a very large 
house4  ,architecture1 however1 in this 
country is in its infancy4 ,the money   
expended in erecting this house1 which  
presents to the eye no tasteful         
architectural attractions1 would1 in the
 ,united ,states1 have raised a  palace 
of symmetrical proportions1 and adorned 
it with every requisite  ornament4      
,large herds of cattle were grazing in  
this valley4    ,from ,petaluma valley  
we crossed a high rolling country1 and  
reached the  mission of ,san ,rafael    
7forty-five miles7 between seven and    
eight  o'clock in the evening4 ,san     
,rafael is situated two or three miles  
from  the shore of the bay1 and commands
 an extensive view of the bay and its   
islands4 ,the mission buildings are     

generally in the same ruinous  condition
 ,i have before described4 ,we put up at
 the house of a ,mr4  ,murphy1 a        
scholastic ,irish bachelor1 who has been
 a resident of  ,california for a number
 of years4 ,his casa1 when we arrived1  
was  closed1 and it was with some       
difficulty that we could gain admission4
  ,when1 however1 the occupant of the   
house had ascertained1 from one of  the 
loopholes of the building1 who we were1 
the doors were soon  unbarred and we    
were admitted1 but not without many     
sallies of ,irish  wit1 sometimes       
good-natured1 and sometimes keenly      
caustic and ironical4  ,we found a table
 spread with cold mutton and cold beef  
upon it4 ,a cup  of coffee was soon     
prepared by the ,indian muchachos and   
muchachas1 and  our host brought out    
some scheidam and aguardinte4 ,a draught
 or two  of these liquids seemed to     
correct the acidity of his humour1 and  
he  entertained us with his jokes and   
conversation several hours4    ,october 

#ah4--;,from ,san ,rafael to ,sausolito1
 opposite ,san ,francisco on  the north 
side of the entrance to the bay1 it is  
five leagues 7fifteen  miles71 generally
 over elevated hills and through deep   
hollows1 the  ascents and descents being
 frequently steep and laborious to our  
animals4 ,starting at half-past seven   
o'clock1 we reached the residence  of   
,captain ,richardson1 the proprietor of 
,sausolito1 about nine o'clock  in the  
morning4 ,in travelling this distance we
 passed some temporary  houses1 erected 
by ,american emigrants on the mission   
lands1 and the  rancho of ,mrs4 ,reed1 a
 widow4 ,we immediately hired a         
whale-boat from  one of the ships1 lying
 here1 at two dollars for each          
passenger1 and  between ten and eleven  
o'clock we landed in ,san ,francisco4   
,i met1 soon after my arrival1 ,mr4     
,lippincott1 heretofore mentioned1 who  
accompanied us a portion of the distance
 over the mountains2 and ,mr4           
,hastings1 who1 with ,mr4 ,hudspeth1    

conducted a party of the emigrants  from
 fort ,bridger by the new route1 via the
 south end of the ,salt  ,lake1 to      
,mary's ,river4 ,from ,mr4 ,lippincott  
,i learned the particulars of  an       
engagement between a party of the       
emigrants 7,captain ,west's company7    
and the ,indians on ,mary's ,river1     
which resulted1 as has before been      
stated1 in the death of ,mr4 ,sallee and
 a dangerous arrow wound to ,mr4  ,l4   
,he had now1 however1 recovered from the
 effects of the wound4 ,the  emigrants1 
who accompanied ,messrs4 ,hastings and  
,hudspeth1 or followed  their trail1 had
 all reached the valley of the          
,sacramento without any  material loss  
or disaster4    ,i remained at ,san     
,francisco from the #ahth to the #bb;d  
of ,october4 ,the  weather during this  
time was sufficiently cool to render    
fires  necessary to comfort in the      
houses2 but fireplaces or stoves are    
luxuries which but few of the ,san      
,franciscans have any knowledge of1     

except in their kitchens4 ,this         
deficiency1 however1 will soon be       
remedied4 ,american settlers here will  
not build houses without  chimneys4     
,they would as soon plan a house without
 a door1 or with the  entrance upon its 
roof1 in imitation of the architecture  
of the ,pueblo  ,indians of ,new        
,mexico4          ,,chapter ,,vi4       
,boat trip up the bay and the           
,sacramento to ,new ,helvetia    ,an    
appeal to the alcalde    ,kanackas      
,straits of ,san ,pueblo and ,pedro     
,straits of ,carquinez    ,town of      
,francisca    ,feather-beds furnished by
 nature    ,mouth of the ,sacramento    
,islands    ,delaware ,tom    ,a man who
 has forgotten his mother tongue        
,salmon of the ,sacramento    ,indian   
fishermen    ,arrive at ,new ,helvetia4 
,october #bb4--;,having determined to   
make a trip to ,nueva ,helvetia by      
water1 for the purpose of examining more
 particularly the upper portion  of the 
bay and the ,sacramento river1 in       

conjunction with ,mr4 ,larkin1 we       
chartered a small open sail-boat for the
 excursion4 ,the charter1 to  avoid     
disputes1 was regularly drawn and       
signed1 with all conditions  specified4 
,the price to be paid for a certain     
number of passengers was  thirty-two    
dollars1 and demurrage at the rate of   
twenty-five cents per  hour for all     
delays ordered by the charter-party1 on 
the trip upwards  to ,nueva ,helvetia4  
,the boat was to be ready at the most   
convenient  landing at seven o'clock    
this morning1 but when ,i called at the 
place  appointed1 with our baggage1 the 
boat was not there4 ,in an hour or two  
the skipper was found1 but refused to   
comply with his contract4 ,we           
immediately laid our grievance before   
the alcalde1 who1 after reading  the    
papers and hearing the statements on    
both sides1 ordered the  skipper to     
perform what he had agreed to perform1  
to which decision he  reluctantly       
assented4 ,in order to facilitate       

matters1 ,i paid the costs  of the      
action myself1 although the successful  
litigant in the suit4    ,we left ,san  
,francisco about two o'clock ,p4,m41    
and1 crossing the mouth  of the bay1    
boarded a ,mexican schooner1 a prize    
captured by the ,u4,s4  sloop-of-war    
,cyane1 ,captain ,dupont1 which had     
entered the bay this  morning and       
anchored in front of ,sausolito4 ,the   
prize is commanded by  ,lieutenant      
,renshaw1 a gallant officer of our navy4
 ,our object in  boarding the schooner  
was to learn the latest news1 but she   
did not  bring much4 ,we met on board   
the schooner ,lieutenant ,hunter of the 
,portsmouth1 a chivalrous officer1 and  
,lieutenant ,ruducoff1 commanding  the  
,russian brig previously mentioned1     
whose vessel1 preparatory to  sailing1  
was taking in water at ,sausolito4      
,accepting of his pressing  invitation1 
we visited the brig1 and took a parting 
glass of wine with  her gallant and     
gentlemanly commander4    ,about five   

o'clock ,p4,m41 we proceeded on our     
voyage4 ,at eight o'clock a  dense fog  
hung over the bay1 and1 the ebb-tide    
being adverse to our  progress1 we were 
compelled to find a landing for our     
small and frail  craft4 ,this was not an
 easy matter1 in the almost impenetrable
  darkness4 ,as good-luck would have it1
 however1 after we had groped  about for
 some time1 a light was discovered by   
our skipper4 ,he rowed  the boat towards
 it1 but grounded4 ,hauling off1 he made
 another attempt  with better success1  
reaching within hailing distance of the 
shore4 ,the  light proceeded from a     
camp-fire of three ,kanacka 7,sandwich  
island7  runaway sailors4 ,as soon as   
they ascertained who we were and what we
  wanted1 they stripped themselves      
naked1 and1 wading through the mud and  
water to the boat1 took us on their     
shoulders1 and carried us high and  dry 
to the land4 ,the boat1 being thus      
lightened of her burden1 was  rowed     
farther up1 and landed4    ,the natives 

of the ,sandwich islands 7,kanackas1 as 
they are called7 are1  without doubt1   
the most expert watermen in the world4  
,their  performances in swimming and    
diving are so extraordinary1 that they  
may  almost be considered amphibious in 
their natures and instincts4 ,water     
appears to be as much their natural     
element as the land4 ,they have         
straight black hair1 good features1 and 
an amiable and intelligent  expression  
of countenance4 ,their complexion       
resembles that of a bright  mulatto2    
and1 in symmetrical proportions and     
muscular developments1  they will       
advantageously compare with any race of 
men ,i have seen4 ,the  crews of many of
 the whale and merchant ships on this   
coast are partly  composed of ,kanackas1
 and they are justly esteemed as most   
valuable  sailors4    ,october          
#bc4--,the damp raw weather1 auguring   
the near approach of the  autumnal      
rains1 continues4 ,a drizzling mist fell
 on us during the  night1 and the clouds

 were not dissipated when we resumed our
 voyage  this morning4 ,passing through 
the straits of ,san ,pablo and ,san     
,pedro1  we entered a division of the   
bay called the bay of ,san ,pablo4 ,wind
 and  tide being in our favour1 we      
crossed this sheet of water1 and        
afterwards entered and passed through   
the ,straits of ,carquinez4 ,at  these  
straits the waters of the bay are       
compressed within the breadth  of a     
mile1 for the distance of about two     
leagues4 ,on the southern side  the     
shore is hilly1 and canoned in some     
places4 ,the northern shore is  gentle1 
the hills and table-land sloping        
gradually down to the water4  ,we landed
 at the bend of the ,straits of         
,carquinez1 and spent several  hours in 
examining the country and soundings on  
the northern side4  ,there is no timber 
here4 ,the soil is covered with a growth
 of grass and  white oats4 ,the bend of 
the ,straits of ,carquinez1 on the      
northern side1  has been thought to be a

 favourable position for a commercial   
town4 ,it  has some advantages and some 
disadvantages1 which it would be tedious
  for me now to detail4    ,subsequently
 to this my first visit here1 a town of 
extensive  dimensions has been laid off 
by ,gen4 ,valljo and ,mr4 ,semple1 the  
proprietors1 under the name of          
,francisca4 ,it fronts for two or three 
miles on the ,soeson1 the upper division
 of the ,bay of ,san  ,francisco1 and   
the ,straits of ,carquinez4 ,a ferry has
 also been  established1 which crosses  
regularly from shore to shore1 conveying
  travellers over the bay4 ,i crossed1  
myself and horses1 here in ,june1       
#ahdg1 when on my return to the ,united 
,states4 ,lots had then been  offered to
 settlers on favourable conditions1 and 
preparations1 ,i  understand1 were      
making for the erection of a number of  
houses4    ,about sunset we resumed our 
voyage4 ,the ,wind having lulled1 we    
attempted to stem the adverse tide by   
the use of oars1 but the ebb of  the    

tide was stronger than the propelling   
force of our oars4 ,soon1 in  spite of  
all our exertions1 we found ourselves   
drifting rapidly  backwards1 and1 after 
two or three hours of hard labour in the
 dark1 we  were at last so fortunate as 
to effect a landing in a cove on the    
southern side of the straits1 having    
retrograded several miles4 ,in the  cove
 there is a small sandy beach1 upon     
which the waves have drifted1  and      
deposited a large quantity of oat-straw1
 and feathers shed by the  millions of  
water-fowls which sport upon the bay4   
,on this downy deposit  furnished by    
nature we spread our blankets1 and slept
 soundly4    ,october #bd4--,we         
proceeded on our voyage at daylight1    
coasting along  the southern shore of   
the ,soeson4 ,about nine o'clock we     
landed on a  marshy plain1 and cooked   
breakfast4 ,a range of mountains bounds 
this  plain1 the base of which is       
several miles from the shore of the bay4
  ,these mountains1 although of         

considerable elevation1 exhibit signs of
  fertility to their summits4 ,on the   
plain1 numerous herds of wild cattle    
were grazing4 ,about two o'clock1       
,p4,m41 we entered the mouth of the     
,sacramento4 ,the ,sacramento and ,san  
,joaquin ,rivers empty into the ,bay of 
,san ,francisco at the same point1 about
 sixty miles from the ,pacific1  and by 
numerous mouths or sloughs as they are  
here called4 ,these  sloughs wind       
through an immense timbered swamp1 and  
constitute a  terraqueous labyrinth of  
such intricacy1 that unskilful and      
inexperienced navigators have been lost 
for many days in it1 and some1  ,i have 
been told1 have perished1 never finding 
their way out4 ,a range  of low sloping 
hills approach the ,sacramento a short  
distance above its  mouth1 on the       
left-hand side as you ascend1 and run   
parallel with the  stream several miles4
 ,the banks of the river1 and several   
large islands  which we passed during   
the day1 are timbered with sycamore1    

oak1 and a  variety of smaller trees and
 shrubbery4 ,numerous grape-vines1      
climbing  over the trees1 and loaded    
down with a small and very acid fruit1  
give  to the forest a tangled           
appearance4 ,the islands of the         
,sacramento are  all low1 and subject to
 overflow in the spring of the year4    
,the soil of  the river bottom1         
including the islands1 is covered with  
rank  vegetation1 a certain evidence of 
its fertility4 ,the water1 at this      
season1 is perfectly limpid1 and1       
although the tide ebbs and flows more   
than a hundred miles above the mouth of 
the river1 it is fresh and  sweet4 ,the 
channel of the ,sacramento is remarkably
 free from snags and  other obstructions
 to navigation4 ,a more beautiful and   
placid stream of  water ,i never saw4   
,at twelve o'clock at night1 the        
ebb-tide being so strong that we found  
ourselves drifting backwards1 with some 
difficulty we effected a  landing on one
 of the islands1 clearing a way through 

the tangled brush  and vines with our   
hatchets and knives4 ,lighting a fire1  
we bivouacked  until daylight4          
,october #be4--;,continuing our voyage1 
we landed1 about nine o'clock1  ,a4,m41 
at an ,indian rancheria1 situated on the
 bank of the river4 ,an  old ,indian1   
his wife1 and two or three children1    
were all the present  occupants of this 
rancheria4 ,the woman was the most      
miserable and  emaciated object ,i ever 
beheld4 ,she was probably a victim of   
the  sweat-house4 ,surrounding the      
rancheria were two or three acres of    
ground1 planted with maize1 beans1 and  
melons4 ,purchasing a quantity of  water
 and musk-melons1 we re-embarked and    
pursued our voyage4 ,as we  ascended the
 stream1 the banks became more elevated1
 the country on  both sides opening into
 vast savannas1 dotted occasionally with
 parks  of evergreen oak4    ,the tide  
turning against us again about eleven or
 twelve o'clock1 we  landed at an       
encampment of ,walla-,walla ,indians1 a 

portion of the party  previously        
referred to1 and reported to have       
visited ,california for  hostile        
purposes4 ,among them was a ,delaware   
,indian1 known as ,delaware  ,tom1 who  
speaks ,english as fluently as any      
,anglo-,saxon1 and is a most  gallant   
and honourable ,indian4 ,several of the 
party1 a majority of whom  were women   
and children1 were sick with chills and 
fever4 ,the men were  engaged in hunting
 and jerking deer and elk meat4         
,throwing our hooks1  baited with fresh 
meat1 into the river1 we soon drew out  
small fish  enough for dinner4    ,the  
specimens of ,walla-,wallas at this     
encampment are far superior to  the     
,indians of ,california in features1    
figure1 and intelligence4 ,their        
complexion is much lighter1 and their   
features more regular1  expressive1 and 
pleasing4 ,men and women were clothed in
 dressed skins4  ,the men were armed    
with rifles4    ,at sunset we put our   
little craft in motion again1 and at one

 o'clock  at night landed near the cabin
 of a ,german emigrant named ,schwartz1 
six  miles below the embarcadero of ,new
 ,helvetia4 ,the cabin is about  twenty 
feet in length by twelve in breadth1    
constructed of a light rude  frame1     
shingled with tule4 ,after gaining      
admission1 we found a fire  blazing in  
the centre of the dwelling on the       
earth-floor1 and suspended  over us were
 as many salmon1 taken from the         
,sacramento1 as could be  placed in     
position to imbibe the preservative     
qualities of the smoke4    ,our host1   
,mr4 ,schwartz1 is one of those         
eccentric human phenomena  rarely met   
with1 who1 wandering from their own     
nation into foreign  countries1 forget  
their own language without acquiring any
 other4 ,he  speaks a tongue 7language  
it cannot be called7 peculiar to        
himself1 and  scarcely intelligible4 ,it
 is a mixture1 in about equal parts1 of 
,german1 ,english1 ,french1 ,spanish1   
and rancheria ,indian1 a compounded     

polyglot or lingual pi--each syllable of
 a word sometimes being  derived from a 
different language4 ,stretching         
ourselves on the benches  surrounding   
the fire1 so as to avoid the drippings  
from the pendent  salmon1 we slept until
 morning4    ,october #bf4--,mr4        
,schwartz provided us with a breakfast  
of fried  salmon and some fresh milk4   
,coffee1 sugar1 and bread we brought    
with  us1 so that we enjoyed a luxurious
 repast4    ,near the house was a shed  
containing some forty or fifty barrels  
of  pickled salmon1 but the fish1 from  
their having been badly put up1 were    
spoiled4 ,mr4 ,schwartz attempted to    
explain the particular causes of  this1 
but ,i could not understand him4 ,the   
salmon are taken with seines  dragged   
across the channel of the river by      
,indians in canoes4 ,on the  bank of the
 river the ,indians were eating their   
breakfast1 which  consisted of a large  
fresh salmon1 roasted in the ashes or   
embers1 and  a kettle of atole1 made of 

acorn-meal4 ,the salmon was four or five
  feet in length1 and1 when taken out of
 the fire and cut open1 presented  a    
most tempting appearance4 ,the ,indians 
were all nearly naked1 and most  of     
them1 having been wading in the water at
 daylight to set their  seines1 were    
shivering with the cold whilst greedily 
devouring their  morning meal4    ,we   
reached the embarcadero of ,new         
,helvetia about eleven o'clock1  ,a4,m41
 and1 finding there a wagon1 we placed  
our baggage in it1 and  walked to the   
fort1 about two and a half miles4       
,,chapter ,,vii4      ,disastrous news  
from the south    ,return of ,colonel   
,fremont to ,monterey    ,call for      
volunteers    ,volunteer our services   
,leave ,new ,helvetia    ,swimming the  
,sacramento    ,first fall of rain      
,beautiful and romantic valley          
,precipitous mountains    ,deserted     
house    ,arable land of ,california    
,fattening qualities of the acorn       
,lost in the ,coast ,mountains          

,strange ,indians    ,indian women      
gathering grass-seed for bread          
,indian guide    ,laguna    ,rough      
dialogue    ,hunters' camp    ,old      
,greenwood    ,grisly bear meat         
,greenwood's account of himself    ,his 
opinion of the ,indians and ,spaniards  
,retrace our steps    ,severe storm     
,nappa valley    ,arrive at ,sonoma     
,more rain    ,arrive at ,san ,francisco
    ,return to ,new ,helvetia4      ,i  
remained at the fort from the #bgth to  
the #cjth of ,october4 ,on the  #bhth1  
,mr4 ,reed1 whom ,i have before         
mentioned as belonging to the rear      
emigrating party1 arrived here4 ,he left
 his party on ,mary's ,river1 and  in   
company with one man crossed the desert 
and the mountains4 ,he was  several days
 without provisions1 and1 when he       
arrived at ,johnson's1 was  so much     
emaciated and exhausted by fatigue and  
famine1 that he could  scarcely walk4   
,his object was to procure provisions   
immediately1 and to  transport them with

 pack-mules over the mountains for the  
relief of the  suffering emigrants      
behind4 ,he had lost all of his cattle1 
and had been  compelled to cache two of 
his wagons and most of his property4    
,captain ,sutter generously furnished   
the requisite quantity of mules and     
horses1 with ,indian vaqueros1 and      
jerked meat and flour4 ,this is the     
second expedition for the relief of the 
emigrants he has fitted out  since our  
arrival in the country4 ,ex-governor    
,boggs and family reached  ,sutter's    
,fort to-day4    ,on the evening of the 
#bhth1 a courier arrived with letters   
from ,colonel  ,fremont1 now at         
,monterey4 ,the substance of the        
intelligence received by  the courier   
was1 that a large force of ,californians
 7varying1 according  to different      
reports1 from five to fifteen hundred   
strong7 had met the  marines and        
sailors1 four hundred strong1 under the 
command of ,captain  ,mervine1 of the   
,u4,s4 frigate ,savannah1 who had landed

 at ,san ,pedro for  the purpose of     
marching to ,los ,angeles1 and had      
driven ,captain ,mervine  and his force 
back to the ship1 with the loss1 in     
killed1 of six men4  ,that the towns of 
,angeles and ,santa ,barbara had been   
taken by the  insurgents1 and the       
,american garrisons there had either    
been captured  or had made their escape 
by retreating4 ,what had become of them 
was  unknown4#b ,colonel ,fremont1 who  
,i before mentioned had sailed with a   
party of one hundred and eighty         
volunteers from ,san ,francisco to ,san 
,pedro1 or ,san ,diego1 for the purpose 
of co-operating with ,commodore         
,stockton1 after having been some time  
at sea1 had put into ,monterey and      
landed his men1 and his purpose now was 
to increase his force and mount  them1  
and to proceed by land for ,los         
,angeles4      #b ,the garrison under   
,captain ,gillespie1 at ,los ,angeles1  
capitulated4        ,the garrison at    
,santa ,barbara1 under ,lieutenant      

,talbot1 marched        out in defiance 
of the enemy1 and after suffering many  
hardships        arrived in safety at   
,monterey4    ,on the receipt of this   
intelligence1 ,i immediately drew up a  
paper1  which was signed by myself1     
,messrs ,reed1 ,jacob1 ,lippincott1 and 
,grayson1 offering our services as      
volunteers1 and our exertions to  raise 
a force of emigrants and ,indians which 
would be a sufficient  reinforcement to 
,colonel ,fremont4 ,this paper was      
addressed to ,mr4 ,kern1  the commandant
 of ,fort ,sacramento1 and required his 
sanction4 ,the next  morning 7#bith7 he 
accepted of our proposal1 and the labour
 of raising  the volunteers and of      
procuring the necessary clothing and    
supplies for  them and the ,indians was 
apportioned4    ,it commenced raining on
 the night of the twenty-eighth1 and the
 rain  fell heavily and steadily until  
twelve o'clock1 ,p4,m41 on the          
twenty-ninth4 ,this is the first fall of
 rain since ,march last4 ,about  one    

o'clock1 ,p4,m41 the clouds cleared away
 and the weather and  temperature were  
delightful4    ,about twelve o'clock1 on
 the #cjth1 accompanied by ,mr4         
,grayson1 ,i left  ,new ,helvetia4 ,we  
crossed the ,sacramento at the          
embarcadero1 swimming  our horses1 and  
passing ourselves over in a small canoe4
 ,the method of  swimming horses over so
 broad a stream as the ,sacramento is as
 follows4  ,a light canoe or dug-out is 
manned by three persons1 one at the bow 
one at the stern and one in the centre2 
those at the bow and stern have         
paddles1 and propel and steer the craft4
 ,the man in the centre holds  the      
horses one on each side1 keeping their  
heads out of water4 ,when the  horses   
are first forced into the deep water1   
they struggle  prodigiously1 and        
sometimes upset the canoe2 but1 when the
 canoe gets  fairly under way1 they     
cease their resistance1 but snort loudly
 at  every breath to clear their mouths 
and nostrils of the water4              

,proceeding ten miles over a level      
plain1 we overtook a company of         
emigrants bound for ,nappa valley1 and  
encamped with them for the night  on    
,puta creek1 a tributary of the         
,sacramento4 ,five of the seven or      
eight men belonging to the company      
enrolled their names as volunteers4     
,the grass on the western side of the   
,sacramento is very rank and of an      
excellent quality4    ,it commenced     
raining about two o'clock on the morning
 of the #cast1 and  continued to rain   
and mist all day4 ,we crossed from ,puta
 to ,cache  creek1 reaching the         
residence of ,mr4 ,gordon 7#be miles7   
about three  o'clock ,p4,m4 ,here we    
enrolled several additional emigrants in
 our list  of volunteers1 and then      
travelled fifteen miles up the creek to 
a small  log-house1 occupied temporarily
 by some of the younger members of the  
family of ,mr4 ,gordon1 who emigrated   
from ,jackson county1 ,mo41 this  year1 
and by ,mrs4 ,grayson4 ,here we remained

 during the night1 glad to  find a      
shelter and a fire1 for we were drenched
 to our skins4    ,on the morning of the
 #ast of ,november the sun shone out    
warm and  pleasant4 ,the birds were     
singing1 chattering1 and flitting from  
tree to  tree1 through the romantic and 
picturesque valley where we had slept   
during the night4 ,the scenery and its  
adjuncts were so charming and  enticing 
that ,i recommenced my travels with     
reluctance4 ,no scenery can  be more    
beautiful than that of the small valleys
 of ,california4  ,ascending the range  
of elevated mountains which border the  
,cache creek1  we had a most extensive  
view of the broad plain of the          
,sacramento1  stretching with islands   
and bells of limber far away to the     
south as  the eye could penetrate4 ,the 
gorges and summits of these mountains   
are  timbered with largo pines1 firs1   
and cedars1 with a smaller growth of    
magnolias1 manzanitas1 hawthorns1 etc41 
etc4 ,travelling several miles  over a  

level plateau1 we descended into a      
beautiful valley1 richly  carpeted with 
grass and timbered with evergreen oak4  
,proceeding across  this three or four  
miles1 we rose another range of         
mountains1 and1  travelling a league    
along the summit ridge1 we descended    
through a  crevice in a sleep rocky     
precipice1 just sufficient in breadth to
 admit  the passage of our animals4 ,our
 horses were frequently compelled to    
slide or leap down nearly perpendicular 
rocks or stairs1 until we  finally1 just
 after sunset1 reached the bottom of the
 mountain1 and  found ourselves in      
another level and most fertile and      
picturesque  valley4    ,we knew that in
 this valley1 of considerable extent1   
there was a house  known as ,barnett's1 
where we expected to find quarters for  
the night4  ,there were numerous trails 
of cattle1 horses1 deer1 and other wild 
animals1 crossing each other in every   
direction through the live  oak-timber4 
,we followed on the largest of the      

cattle trails until it  became so blind 
that we could not see it4 ,taking       
another1 we did the  same1 and the      
result was the same2 another and another
 with no better  success4 ,we then      
shouted so loud that our voices were    
echoed and  re-echoed by the surrounding
 mountains1 hoping1 if there were any   
inhabitants in the valley1 that they    
would respond to us4 ,there was no      
response--all was silent when the sound 
of our voices died away in the  gorges  
and ravines2 and at ten o'clock at night
 we encamped under the  wide-spreading  
branches of an oak1 having travelled    
about #dj miles4  ,striking a fire and  
heaping upon it a large quantity of     
wood1 which  blazed brightly1 displaying
 the ,gothic shapes of the surrounding  
oaks1  we picketed our animals1 spread  
our blankets1 and slept soundly4    ,it 
rained several hours during the night1  
and in the morning a dense  fog filled  
the valley4 ,saddling our animals1 we   
searched along the foot  of the next    

range of mountains for a trail1 but     
could find none4  ,returning to our     
camp1 we proceeded up the valley1 and   
struck a trail1  by following which two 
miles1 we came to the house             
7,barnett's74 ,the  door was ajar1 and  
entering the dwelling we found it       
tenantless4 ,the  hearth was cold1 and  
the ashes in the jambs of the large     
fire-place  were baked4 ,in the corners 
of the building there were some frames1 
upon  which beds had been once spread4  
,the house evidently had been abandoned 
by its former occupants for some time4  
,the prolific mothers of several        
families of the swinish species1 with   
their squealing progenies1  gathered    
around us1 in full expectation1         
doubtless1 of the dispensation  of an   
extra ration1 which we had not to give4 
,having eaten nothing but  a crust of   
bread for #bd hours1 the inclination of 
our appetites was  strong to draw upon  
them for a ration2 but for old          
acquaintance' sake1  and because they   

were the foreshadowing of the manifest  
destiny1 they  were permitted to pass   
without molestation4 ,there were two or 
three  small inclosures near the house1 
where corn and wheat had been planted   
and harvested this year2 but none of the
 product of the harvest could  be found 
in the empty house1 or on the place4    
,dismounting from our  horses at a      
limpid spring-branch near the house1 we 
slaked our thirst1  and made our        
hydropathical breakfast from its cool   
and delicious water4    ,although the   
trail of the valley did not run in our  
course1 still1  under the expectation   
that it would soon take another         
direction1 we  followed it1 passing over
 a fertile soil1 sufficiently timbered  
and  watered by several small streams4  
,the quantity of arable land in         
,california1 ,i believe1 is much greater
 than has generally been supposed  from 
the accounts of the country given by    
travellers who have visited  only the   
parts on the ,pacific1 and some few of  

the missions4 ,most of  the mountain    
valleys between the ,sierra ,nevada and 
the coast are  exuberantly fertile1 and 
finely watered1 and will produce crops  
of all  kinds1 while the hills are      
covered with oats and grass of the most 
nutritious qualities1 for the sustenance
 of cattle1 horses1 and hogs4  ,the     
acorns which fall from the oaks are1 of 
themselves1 a rich annual  product for  
the fattening of hogs2 and during the   
period of transition  7four or five     
weeks after the rains commence falling7 
from the dry  grass to the fresh growth1
 horses1 mules1 and even horned cattle  
mostly  subsist and fatten upon these   
large and oleaginous nuts4    ,we left  
the valley in a warm and genial         
sunshine1 about #aa o'clock1 and        
commenced ascending another high        
mountain1 timbered as those ,i have     
previously described4 ,when we reached  
the summit1 we were enveloped in        
clouds1 and the rain was falling        
copiously1 and a wintry blast drove  the

 cold element to our skins4 ,crossing   
this mountain three or four  miles1 we  
descended its sleep sides1 and entered  
another beautiful and  romantic hollow1 
divided as it were into various         
apartments by short  ranges of low      
conical hills1 covered to their summits 
with grass and  wild oats4 ,the grass   
and other vegetation on the level bottom
 are very  rank1 indicating a soil of   
the most prolific qualities4 ,in winding
  through this valley1 we met four      
,indians on foot1 armed with long bows1 
and arrows of corresponding weight and  
length1 weapons that ,i have not        
previously seen among the ,indians4     
,their complexions were lighter than    
those of the rancheria ,indians of      
,california4 ,they evidently belonged   
to some more northern tribe4 ,we stopped
 them to make inquiries1 but  they      
seemed to know nothing of the country1  
nor could we learn from  them from      
whence they came or where they were     
going4 ,they were clothed  in dressed   

skins1 and two of them were highly      
rouged4    ,ascending and descending    
gradually over some low hills1 we       
entered  another circular valley1       
through which flows a stream1 the waters
 of  which1 judging from its channel1 at
 certain seasons are broad and deep4    
,the ground1 from the rains that have   
recently fallen and are now  falling1 is
 very soft1 and we had difficulty in    
urging our tired  animals across this   
valley4 ,we soon discovered fresh cattle
 signs1 and  afterwards a large herd    
grazing near the stream4 ,farther on1 we
 saw  five old and miserably emaciated  
,indian women1 gathering grass-seed for 
bread4 ,this process is performed with  
two baskets1 one shaped like a  round   
shield1 and the other having a basin and
 handle4 ,with the shield  the lop of   
the grass is brushed1 and the seed by   
the motion is thrown  into the deep     
basket held in the other hand4 ,the five
 women appeared at  a distance like so  
many mowers cutting down the grass of a 

meadow4  ,these women could give us no  
satisfaction in response to inquiries1  
but  pointed over the river indicating  
that we should there find the casa  and 
rancheria4 ,they then continued their   
work with as much zeal and  industry as 
if their lives were dependent upon the  
proceeds of their  labour1 and ,i       
suppose they were4    ,crossing the     
river1 we struck a trail which led us to
 the casa and  rancheria1 about two     
miles distant4 ,the casa was a small    
adobe  building1 about twelve feet      
square1 and was locked up4 ,finding that
  admission was not to be gained here1  
we hailed at the rancheria1 and         
presently some dozen squalid and naked  
men1 women1 and children1 made  their   
appearance4 ,we inquired for the mayor  
domo1 or overseer4 ,the  chief speaker  
signified that he was absent1 and that  
he did not expect  hint to return until 
several suns rose and set4 ,we then     
signified we  were hungry1 and very soon
 a loaf made of pulverized acorns1      

mingled  with wild fruit of some kind1  
was brought to us with a basket of      
water4  ,these ,indians manufacture     
small baskets which are impervious to   
water1  and they are used as basins to  
drink from1 and for other purposes4     
,i knew that we had been travelling out 
of our course all day1 and it  was now  
three o'clock1 ,p4,m4 ,rain and mist had
 succeeded each other1 and  the sun was 
hidden from us by dark and threatening  
masses of clouds4 ,we  had no compass   
with us1 and could not determine the    
course to ,nappa  ,valley or ,sonoma4   
,believing that the ,indian would have  
some knowledge  of the latter place1 we 
made him comprehend that we wished to go
 there1  and inquired the route4 ,he    
pointed in a direction which he         
signified  would take us to ,sonoma4 ,we
 pointed in another course1 which it    
seemed  to us was the right one4 ,but he
 persisted in asserting that he was     
right4 ,after some further talk1 for the
 shirt on my back he promised to  guide 

us1 and1 placing a ragged skin on one of
 our horses1 he mounted  the animal and 
led the way over the next range of      
hills4 ,the rain soon  poured down so   
hard upon the poor fellow's bare skin1  
that he begged  permission to return1 to
 which we would not consent2 but1 out of
  compassion to him1 ,i took off my     
over-coat1 with which he covered his    
swarthy hide1 and seemed highly         
delighted with the shelter from the     
pitiless storm it afforded him1 or with 
the supposition that ,i intended  to    
present it to him4    ,crossing several 
elevated and rocky hills1 just before   
sunset1 we had a  view of a large       
timbered valley and a sheet of water1   
the extent of  which we could not       
compass with the eye1 on account of the 
thickness of  the atmosphere4 ,when we  
came in sight of the water1 the ,indian 
uttered  various exclamations of        
pleasure2 and1 although ,i had felt but 
little  faith in him as a pilot from the
 first1 ,i began now to think that we   

were approaching the ,bay of ,san       
,francisco4 ,descending into the valley1
  we travelled along a small stream two 
or three miles1 and were  continuing on 
in the twilight1 when we heard the      
tinkling of a cow-bell  on the opposite 
side of the stream4 ,certain1 from this 
sound1 that  there must be an encampment
 near1 ,i halted and hallooed at the top
 of  my voice4 ,the halloo called forth 
a similar response1 with an             
interrogation in ,english1 ,who the     
d----l are you--,spaniards or           
,americans8 ,americans4 ,show           
yourselves1 then1 d----n you1 and let us
  see the colour of your hide1 was the  
answer4    ,tell us where we can cross  
the stream1 and you shall soon see us1  
was  our reply4    ,ride back and follow
 the sound of my voice1 and be d----d to
 you1 and  you can cross the stream with
 a deer's jump4    ,accordingly1        
following the sound of the voice of this
 rough colloquist1  who shouted         
repeatedly1 we rode back in the dark    

several hundred yards1  and1 plunging   
into the stream1 the channel of which   
was deep1 we gained  the other side1    
where we found three men standing ready 
to receive us4  ,we soon discovered them
 to be a party of professional hunters1 
or  trappers1 at the head of which was  
,mr4 ,greenwood1 a famed mountaineer1   
commonly known as ,old ,greenwood4 ,they
 invited us to their camp1  situated    
across a small opening in the timber    
about half a mile  distant4 ,having     
unsaddled our tired animals and turned  
them loose to  graze for the night1 we  
placed our baggage under the cover of a 
small  tent1 and1 taking our seats by   
the huge camp fire1 made known as far as
  was expedient our business4 ,we soon  
ascertained that we had ridden the      
entire day 7about #dj miles7 directly   
out of our course to ,nappa ,valley  and
 ,sonoma1 and that the ,indian's        
information was all wrong4 ,we were  now
 near the shore of a large lake1 called 
the ,laguna by  ,californians1 some     

fifty or sixty miles in length1 which   
lake is  situated about sixty or seventy
 miles north of the ,bay of ,san        
,francisco2 consequently1 to-morrow we  
shall be compelled to retrace our  steps
 and find the trail that leads from     
,harriett's house to ,nappa1  which     
escaped us this morning4 ,we received   
such directions1 however1  from ,mr4    
,greenwood1 that we could not fail to   
find it4    ,we found in the camp1 much 
to our gratification after a long fast1 
an  abundance of fat grisly bear-meat   
and the most delicious and tender       
deer-meat4 ,the camp looked like a      
butcher's stall4 ,the pot filled with   
bear-flesh was boiled again and again1  
and the choice pieces of the  tender    
venison were roasting1 and disappearing 
with singular rapidity  for a long time4
 ,bread there was none of course4 ,such 
a delicacy is  unknown to the mountain  
trappers1 nor is it much desired by     
them4    ,the hunting party consisted of
 ,mr4 ,greenwood1 ,mr4 ,turner1 ,mr4    

,adams1  and three sons of ,mr4 ,g41 one
 grown1 and the other two boys #aj or   
#ab  years of age1 half-bred ,indians1  
the mother being a ,crow4 ,one of these 
boys is named ,governor ,boggs1 after   
ex-governor ,boggs of ,missouri1 an  old
 friend of the father4 ,mr4 ,greenwood1 
or ,old ,greenwood1 as he is  familiarly
 called1 according to his own statement1
 is #hc years of age1  and has been a   
mountain trapper between #dj and #ej    
years4 ,he lived among  the ,crow       
,indians1 where he married his wife1    
between thirty and forty  years4 ,he is 
about six feet in height1 raw-boned and 
spare in flesh1  but muscular1 and1     
notwithstanding his old age1 walks with 
all the  erectness and elasticity of    
youth4 ,his dress was of tanned         
buckskin1  and from its appearance one  
would suppose its antiquity to be nearly
  equal to the age of its wearer4 ,it   
had probably never been off his body    
since he first put it on4 ,i am1 said   
he1 an old man--eighty-three  years--it 

is a long time to live2--eighty-three   
years last--4 ,i have  seen all the     
,injun varmints of the ,rocky           
,mountains1--have fout  them--lived with
 them4 ,i have many children--,i don't  
know how many1  they are scattered2 but 
my wife was a ,crow4 ,the ,crows are a  
brave  nation1--the bravest of all the  
,injuns2 they fight like the white man2 
they don't kill you in the dark like the
 ,black-foot varmint1 and then  take    
your scalp and run1 the cowardly        
reptiles4 ,eighty-three years  last----2
 and yet old ,greenwood could handle the
 rifle as well as the  best on 'em1 but 
for this infernal humour in my eyes1    
caught three  years ago in bringing the 
emigrators over the de-sart4 7,a circle 
of  scarlet surrounded his weeping      
eyeballs47 ,i can't see jist now as well
  as ,i did fifty years ago1 but ,i can 
always bring the game or the  slinking  
and skulking ,injun4 ,i have jist come  
over the mountains from  ,sweetwater    
with the emigrators as pilot1 living    

upon bacon1 bread1  milk1 and sich like 
mushy stuff4 ,it don't agree with me2 it
 never will  agree with a man of my age1
 eighty-three last ----2 that is a long 
time  to live4 ,i thought ,i would take 
a small hunt to get a little exercise   
for my old bones1 and some good fresh   
meat4 ,the grisly bear1 fat deer1  and  
poultry and fish--them are such things  
as a man should eat4 ,i came  up here1  
where ,i knew there was plenty4 ,i was  
here twenty years ago1  before any white
 man see this lake and the rich land    
about it4 ,it's  filled with big fish4  
,that's beer-springs here1 better than  
them in the  ,rocky ,mountains2 thar's a
 mountain of solid brimstone1 and thar's
 mines  of gold and silver1 all of which
 ,i know'd many years ago1 and ,i can   
show them to you if you will go with me 
in the morning4 ,these  black-skinned   
,spaniards have rebelled again4 ,wall1  
they can make a  fuss1 d--m 'em1 and    
have revolutions every year1 but they   
can't fight4  ,it's no use to go after  

'em1 unless when you ketch 'em you kill 
'em4  ,they won't stand an' fight like  
men1 an' when they can't fight longer   
give up2 but the skared varmints run    
away and then make another fuss1  d--m  
'em4 ,such was the discourse of our     
host4    ,the camp consisted of two     
small tents1 which had probably been    
obtained  from the emigrants4 ,they were
 pitched so as to face each other1 and  
between them there was a large pile of  
blazing logs4 ,on the trees  surrounding
 the camp were stretched the skins of   
various animals which  had been killed  
in the hunt2 some preserved for their   
hides1 others for  the fur4 ,bear-meat  
and venison enough for a winter's supply
 were  hanging from the limbs4 ,the     
swearing of ,turner1 a man of immense   
frame  and muscular power1 during our   
evening's conversation1 was almost      
terrific4 ,i had heard mountain swearing
 before1 but his went far beyond  all   
former examples4 ,he could do all the   
swearing for our army in  ,mexico1 and  

then have a surplus4    ,the next       
morning 7,nov4 #crd71 after partaking of
 a hearty breakfast1 and  suspending    
from our saddles a sufficient supply of 
venison and  bear-meat for two days'    
journey1 we started back on our own     
trail4 ,we  left our miserable ,indian  
pilot at his rancheria4 ,i gave him the 
shirt from my back1 out of compassion   
for his sufferings--he well  deserved a 
dressing of another kind4 ,it rained all
 day1 and1 when we  reached ,barnett's  
7the empty house7 after four o'clock1   
,p4,m41 the black  masses of clouds     
which hung over the valley portended a  
storm so  furious1 that we thought it   
prudent to take shelter under a roof for
  the night4 ,securing our animals in   
one of the inclosures1 we encamped  in  
the deserted dwelling4 ,the storm soon  
commenced1 and raged and  roared with a 
fierceness and strength rarely          
witnessed4 ,the hogs and  pigs came     
squealing about the door for admission2 
and the cattle and  horses in the       

valley1 terrified by the violence of    
elemental battle1  ran backwards and    
forwards1 bellowing and snorting4 ,in   
comfortable  quarters1 we roasted and   
enjoyed our bear-meat and venison1 and  
left  the wind1 rain1 lightning1 and    
thunder to play their pranks as best    
suited them1 which they did all night4  
,on the morning of the fourth1 we found 
the trail described to us by ,mr4       
,greenwood1 and1 crossing a ridge of    
mountains1 descended into the  valley of
 ,nappa creek1 which empties into the   
,bay of ,san ,francisco just  below the 
,straits of ,carquinez4 ,this is a most 
beautiful and fertile  valley1 and is   
already occupied by several ,american   
settlers4 ,among the  first who         
established themselves here is ,mr4     
,yount1 who soon after  erected a       
flouring-mill and saw-mill4 ,these have 
been in operation  several years4       
,before reaching ,mr4 ,yount's          
settlement we passed a  saw-mill more   
recently erected1 by ,dr4 ,bale4 ,there 

seems to be an  abundance of pine and   
red-wood 7a species of fir71 in the     
canadas4 ,no  lumber can be superior for
 building purposes than that sawed from 
the  red-wood4 ,the trees are of immense
 size1 straight1 free from knots and    
twists1 and the wood is soft1 and easily
 cut with plane and saw4  ,arriving at  
the residence of ,dr4 ,bale1 in ,nappa  
,valley1 we were  hospitably entertained
 by him with a late breakfast of coffee1
 boiled  eggs1 steaks1 and tortillas1   
served up in ,american style4 ,leaving  
,nappa1 after travelling down it some   
ten or twelve miles1 we crossed  another
 range of hills or mountains1 and       
reached ,sonoma after dark1 our         
clothing thoroughly drenched with the   
rain1 which1 with intermissions1  had   
fallen the whole day4 ,i put up at the  
same quarters as when here  before4 ,the
 house was covered with a dilapidated   
thatch1 and the rain  dripped through   
it1 not leaving a dry spot on the floor 
of the room  where we slept4 ,but there 

was an advantage in this--the inundation
 of  water had completely discomfited   
the army of fleas that infested the     
building when we were here before4      
,it rained incessantly on the fifth4    
,col4 ,russell arrived at ,sonoma  early
 in the morning1 having arrived from    
,san ,francisco last night4  ,procuring 
a boat belonging to ,messrs4 ,howard and
 ,mellus1 lying at the  embarcadero1 ,i 
left for ,san ,francisco1 but1 owing to 
the storm and  contrary winds1 did not  
arrive there until the morning of the   
seventh1  being two nights and a day in 
the creek1 and churning on the bay4     
,purchasing a quantity of clothing1 and 
other supplies for volunteers1 ,i       
sailed early on the morning of the      
eighth for ,new ,helvetia1 in a boat    
belonging to the sloop-of-war           
,portsmouth1 manned by ,u4,s4 sailors1  
under  the command of ,midshipman       
,byres1 a native of ,maysville1 ,ky4 ,we
 encamped  that night at the head of    
,soeson1 having sailed about fifty miles

 in  a severe storm of wind and rain4   
,the waves frequently dashed entirely   
over our little craft4 ,the rain        
continued during the ninth1 and we      
encamped at night about the mouth of the
 ,sacramento4 ,on the night of  the     
tenth we encamped at ,meritt's camp1 the
 rain still falling1 and  the river     
rising rapidly1 rendering navigation    
up-stream impossible1  except with the  
aid of the tide4 ,on the night of the   
eleventh we  encamped fifteen miles     
below ,new ,helvetia1 still raining4 ,on
 the  morning of the twelfth the clouds 
cleared away1 and the sun burst out     
warm and spring-like4 ,after having been
 exposed to the rain for ten or  twelve 
days1 without having the clothing upon  
me once dry1 the sight of  the sun1 and 
the influence of his beams1 were        
cheering and most  agreeable4 ,we       
arrived at ,new ,helvetia about twelve  
o'clock4          ,,chapter ,,viii4     
,leave ,new ,helvetia    ,pleasant      
weather    ,meet ,indian volunteers     

,tule boats    ,engagement between a    
party of ,americans and ,californians   
,death of ,capt4 ,burroughs and ,capt4  
,foster    ,capture of ,thomas ,o4      
,larkin    ,reconnaissance    ,san ,juan
 ,bautista    ,neglect of the dead      
,large herds of ,cattle    ,join ,col4  
,fremont4      ,on my arrival at ,new   
,helvetia1 ,i found there ,mr4 ,jacob4  
,mr4 ,reed had  not yet returned from   
the mountains4 ,nothing had been heard  
from ,mr4  ,lippincott1 or ,mr4         
,grayson1 since ,i left the latter at   
,sonoma4 ,an  authorized agent of ,col4 
,fremont had arrived at the fort the day
 that ,i  left it1 with power to take   
the caballada of public horses1 and to  
enroll volunteers for the expedition to 
the south4 ,he had left two or  three   
days before my arrival1 taking with him 
all the horses and  trappings suitable  
for service1 and all the men who had    
previously  rendezvoused at the fort1   
numbering about sixty1 as ,i understood4
 ,at  my request messengers were sent by

 ,mr4 ,kern1 commandant of the fort1    
and by ,captain ,sutter1 to the ,indian 
chiefs on the ,san ,joaquin ,river  and 
its tributaries1 to meet me at the most 
convenient points on the  trail1 with   
such warriors of their tribes as chose  
to volunteer as  soldiers of the ,united
 ,states1 and perform military service  
during the  campaign4 ,i believed that  
they would be useful as scouts and      
spies4 ,on  the #adth and #aeth eight   
men 7emigrants who had just arrived in  
the  country1 and had been enrolled at  
,johnson's settlement by ,messrs4 ,reed 
and ,jacob7 arrived at the fort2 and on 
the morning of the #afth1 with  these1  
we started to join ,colonel ,fremont1   
supposed to be at ,monterey2  and we    
encamped at night on the ,cosumne       
,river4    ,the weather is now pleasant4
 ,we are occasionally drenched with a   
shower  of rain1 after which the sun    
shines warm and bright2 the fresh grass 
is  springing up1 and the birds sing and
 chatter in the groves and thickets  as 

we pass through them4 ,i rode forward1  
on the morning of the #agth1 to  the    
,mickelemes ,river 7twenty-five miles   
from the ,cosumne71 where ,i met        
,antonio1 an ,indian chief1 with twelve 
warriors1 who had assembled hero  for   
the purpose of joining us4 ,the names of
 the warriors were as                   
follows2--,santiago1 ,masua1 ,kiubu1    
,tocoso1 ,nonelo1 ,michael1 ,weala1     
,arkell1 ,nicolas1 ,heel1 ,kasheano1    
,estephen4 ,our party coming up in the  
afternoon1 we encamped here for the day1
 in order to give the ,indians  time to 
make further preparations for the march4
 ,on the #ahth we met1 at  the ford of  
the ,san ,joaquin ,river1 another party 
of eighteen ,indians1  including their  
chiefs4 ,their names were--,jos ,jesus1 
,filipe1  ,ray-mundo1 and ,carlos1      
chiefs2 ,huligario1 ,bonefasio1         
,francisco1  ,nicolas1 ,pablo1          
,feliciano1 ,san ,antonio1 ,polinario1  
,manuel1 ,graviano1  ,salinordio1       
,romero1 and ,merikeeldo1 warriors4 ,the

 chiefs and some of  the warriors of    
these parties were partially clothed1   
but most of them  were naked1 except a  
small garment around the loins4 ,they   
were armed  with bows and arrows4 ,we   
encamped with our sable companions on   
the east  bank of the ,san ,joaquin4    
,the next morning 7,nov4 #ai71 the river
 being too high to ford1 we             
constructed1 by the aid of the ,indians1
 tule-boats1 upon which our  baggage was
 ferried over the stream4 ,the tule-boat
 consists of bundles  of tule firmly    
hound together with willow withes4 ,when
 completed1 in  shape it is not unlike a
 small keel-boat4 ,the buoyancy of one  
of these  craft is surprising4 ,six men1
 as many as could sit upon the deck1    
were  passed over1 in the largest of our
 three boats1 at a time4 ,the boats     
were towed backwards and forwards by    
,indian swimmers--one at the bow1  and  
one at the stern as steersman1 and two  
on each side as propellers4  ,the poor  
fellows1 when they came out of the cold 

water1 trembled as if  attacked with an 
ague4 ,we encamped near the house of    
,mr4 ,livermore  7previously described71
 where1 after considerable difficulty1  
,i  obtained sufficient beef for supper1
 ,mr4 ,l4 being absent4 ,most of the    
,indians did not get into camp until a  
late hour of the night1 and some  of    
them not until morning4 ,they complained
 very much of sore feet1 and  wanted    
horses to ride1 which ,i promised them  
as soon as they reached  the ,pueblo de 
,san ,jos4    ,about ten o'clock on the 
morning of the #bjth1 we slaughtered a  
beef in  the hills between ,mr4         
,livermore's and the mission of ,san    
,jos2 and1  leaving the hungry party to 
regale themselves upon it and then      
follow  on1 ,i proceeded immediately to 
the ,pueblo de ,san ,jos to make further
  arrangements1 reaching that place just
 after sunset4 ,on the #bast ,i         
procured clothing for the ,indians1     
which1 when they arrived with ,mr4      
,jacob in the afternoon1 was distributed

 among them4    ,on my arrival at the   
,pueblo1 ,i found the ,american         
population there much  excited by       
intelligence just received of the       
capture on the #aeth1  between ,monterey
 and the mission of ,san ,juan1 of      
,thos4 ,o4 ,larkin1 ,esq41  late ,u4,s4 
,consul in ,california1 by a party of   
,californians1 and of an  engagement    
between the same ,californians and a    
party of ,americans  escorting a        
caballada of #djj horses to ,colonel    
,fremont's camp in  ,monterey4 ,in this 
affair three ,americans were killed1    
viz43 ,capt4  ,burroughs1 ,capt4        
,foster1 and ,mr4 ,eames1 late of ,st4  
,louis1 ,mo4 ,the  mission of ,san ,juan
 lies on the road between the ,pueblo de
 ,san ,jos and  ,monterey1 about fifty  
miles from the former place1 and thirty 
from the  latter4 ,the skirmish took    
place ten miles south of ,san ,juan1    
near the  ,monterey road4 ,i extract the
 following account of this affair from a
  journal of his captivity published by 

,mr4 ,larkin3--    ,on the #ajth of     
,november1 from information received of 
the sickness of  my family in ,san      
,francisco1 where they had gone to      
escape the expected  revolutionary      
troubles in ,monterey1 and from letters 
from ,captain  ,montgomery requesting my
 presence respecting some stores for the
  ,portsmouth1 ,i1 with one servant1    
left ,monterey for ,san ,francisco1     
knowing that for one month no           
,californian forces had been within #ajj
  miles of us4 ,that night ,i put up at 
the house of ,don ,joaquin ,gomez1      
sending my servant to ,san ,juan1 six   
miles beyond1 to request ,mr4 ,j4       
,thompson to wait for me1 as he was on  
the road for ,san ,francisco4 ,about    
midnight ,i was aroused from my bed by  
the noise made by ten  ,californians    
7unshaved and unwashed for months1 being
 in the mountains7  rushing into my     
chamber with guns1 swords1 pistols1 and 
torches in  their hands4 ,i needed but a
 moment to be fully awake and know my   

exact  situation2 the first cry was1    
',como estamos1 ,senor ,consul4'        
',vamos1  ,senor ,larkin4' ,at my       
bedside were several letters that ,i had
 re-read  before going to bed4 ,on      
dressing myself1 while my captors were  
saddling  my horse1 ,i assorted these   
letters1 and put them into different    
pockets4 ,after taking my own time to   
dress and arrange my valise1 we         
started1 and rode to a camp of seventy  
or eighty men on the banks of  the      
,monterey ,river2 there each officer and
 principal person passed the  time of   
night with me1 and a remark or two4 ,the
 commandante took me on  one side1 and  
informed me that his people demanded    
that ,i should write  to ,san ,juan1 to 
the ,american captain of volunteers1    
saying that ,i had  left ,monterey to   
visit the distressed families of the    
river1 and  request or demand that      
twenty men should meet me before        
daylight1 that  ,i could station them1  
before my return to town1 in a manner to

 protect  these families4 ,the natives1 
he said1 were determined on the act     
being  accomplished4 ,i at first        
endeavoured to reason with him on the   
infamy  and the impossibility of the    
deed1 but to no avail2 he said my life  
depended on the letter2 that he was     
willing1 nay1 anxious to preserve  my   
life as an old acquaintance1 but could  
not control his people in  this affair4 
,from argument ,i came to a refusal2 he 
advised1 urged1 and  demanded4 ,at this 
period an officer called out 99 99 99 99
 7,come here1  those who are named47 ,i 
then said1 ',in this manner you may act 
and  threaten night by night2 my life on
 such condition is of no value or       
pleasure to me4 ,i am by accident your  
prisoner--make the most of  me--write1  
,i will not2 shoot as you see fit1 and  
,i am done talking on  the subject4' ,i 
left him1 and went to the camp fire4    
,for a half-hour or  more there was some
 commotion around me1 when all          
disturbance subsided4    ,at daylight we

 started1 with a flag flying and a drum 
beating1 and  travelled eight or ten    
miles1 when we camped in a low valley or
 hollow4  ,there they caught with the   
lasso three or four head of cattle      
belonging  to the nearest rancho1 and   
breakfasted4 ,the whole day their       
outriders  rode in every direction1 on  
the look-out1 to see if the ,american   
company left the mission of ,san ,juan1 
or ,lieutenant-,colonel ,fremont  left  
,monterey2 they also rode to all the    
neighbouring ranches1 and  forced the   
rancheros to join them4 ,at one o'clock1
 they began their  march with one       
hundred and thirty men 7and two or three
 hundred extra  horses72 they marched in
 four single files1 occupying four      
positions1  myself under charge of an   
officer and five or six men in the      
centre4  ,their plan of operation for   
the night was1 to rush into ,san ,juan  
ten or  fifteen men1 who were to        
retreat1 under the expectation that the 
,americans would follow them1 in which  

case the whole party outside was  to cut
 them off4 ,i was to be retained in the 
centre of the party4 ,ten  miles south  
of the mission1 they encountered eight  
or ten ,americans1 a  part of whom      
retreated into a low ground covered with
 oaks1 the others  returned to the house
 of ,senor ,gomez1 to alarm their       
companions4 ,for  over one hour the     
hundred and thirty ,californians        
surrounded the six or  eight ,americans1
 occasionally giving and receiving      
shots4 ,during this  period1 ,i was     
several times requested1 then commanded1
 to go among the  oaks and bring out my 
countrymen1 and offer them their lives  
on giving  up their rifles and persons4 
,i at last offered to go and call them  
out1  on condition that they should     
return to ,san ,juan or go to ,monterey1
  with their arms2 this being refused1  
,i told the commandante to go in  and   
bring them out himself4 ,while they were
 consulting how this could  be done1    
fifty ,americans came down on them1     

which caused an action of  about twenty 
or thirty minutes4 ,thirty or forty of  
the natives leaving  the field at the   
first fire1 they remained drawn off by  
fives and tens  until the ,americans had
 the field to themselves4 ,both parties 
remained  within a mile of each other   
until dark4 ,our countrymen lost        
,captain  ,burroughs of ,st4 ,louis1    
,missouri1 ,captain ,foster1 and two    
others1 with  two or three wounded4 ,the
 ,californians lost two of their        
countrymen1  and ,jos ,garcia1 of ,val41
 ,chili1 with seven wounded4    ,the    
following additional particulars ,i     
extract from the ,californian  newspaper
 of ,november #ba1 #ahdf1 published at  
,monterey3 ,burroughs and  ,foster were 
killed at the first onset4 ,the         
,americans fired1 and then  charged on  
the enemy with their empty rifles1 and  
ran them off4  ,however1 they still kept
 rallying1 and firing now and then a    
musket at  the ,americans until about   
eleven o'clock at night1 when one of the

  ,walla-,walla ,indians offered his    
services to come into ,monterey and give
  ,colonel ,fremont notice of what was  
passing4 ,soon after he started he  was 
pursued by a party of the enemy4 ,the   
foremost in pursuit drove a  lance at   
the ,indian1 who1 trying to parry it1   
received the lance  through his hand2 he
 immediately1 with his other hand1      
seized his  tomahawk1 and struck his    
opponent1 splitting his head from the   
crown to  the mouth4 ,by this time the  
others had come up1 and1 with the most  
extraordinary dexterity and bravery1 the
 ,indian vanquished two more1  and the  
rest ran away4 ,he rode on towards this 
town as far as his horse  was able to   
carry him1 and then left his horse and  
saddle1 and came in  on foot4 ,he       
arrived here about eight o'clock on     
,tuesday morning1  ,december #agth4     
,the ,americans engaged in this affair  
were principally the volunteer          
emigrants just arrived in the country1  
and who had left ,new ,helvetia a  few  

days in advance of me4    ,colonel      
,fremont marched from ,monterey as soon 
as he heard of this  skirmish1 in       
pursuit of the ,californians1 but did   
not meet with them4  ,he then encamped  
at the mission of ,san ,juan1 waiting   
there the arrival  of the remaining     
volunteers from above4    ,leaving the  
,pueblo on the afternoon of the #beth1  
in conjunction with a  small force      
commanded by ,captain ,weber1 we made an
 excursion into the  hills1 near a      
rancho owned by ,captain ,w41 where were
 herded some two or  three hundred      
public horses4 ,it had been rumoured    
that a party of  ,californians were     
hovering about here1 intending to       
capture and drive  off these horses4    
,the next day 7,november #bfth71 without
 having met any  hostile force1 driving 
these horses before us1 we encamped at  
,mr4  ,murphy's rancho4 ,mr4 ,murphy is 
the father of a large and respectable   
family1 who emigrated to this country   
some three or four years since  from1   

the ,united ,states1 being originally   
from ,canada4 ,his daughter1  ,miss     
,helen1 who did the honours of the rude 
cabin1 in manners1  conversation1 and   
personal charms1 would grace any        
drawing-room4 ,on the  #bhth1 we        
proceeded down the ,pueblo valley1      
passing ,gilroy's rancho1 and  reaching 
the mission of ,san ,juan just before   
dark4 ,the hills and  valleys are       
becoming verdant with fresh grass and   
wild oats1 the latter  being1 in places1
 two or three inches high4 ,so tender is
 it1 however1  that it affords but      
little nourishment to our horses4       
,the mission of ,san ,juan ,bautista has
 been one of the most extensive of      
these establishments4 ,the principal    
buildings are more durably  constructed 
than those of other missions ,i have    
visited1 and they are  in better        
condition4 ,square bricks are used in   
paving the corridors and  the ground    
floors4 ,during the twilight1 ,i strayed
 accidentally through  a half-opened    

gate into a cemetery1 inclosed by a high
 wall in the rear  of the church4 ,the  
spectacle was ghastly enough4 ,the      
exhumed skeletons  of those who had been
 deposited here lay thickly strewn      
around1 showing  but little respect for 
the sanctity of the grave1 or the rights
 of the  dead from the living4 ,the cool
 damp night-breeze sighed and moaned    
through the shrubbery and ruinous arches
 and corridors1 planted and  reared by  
those whose neglected bones were now    
exposed to the rude  insults of man and 
beast4 ,i could not but imagine that the
 voices of  complaining spirits mingled 
with these dismal and mournful tones2   
and  plucking a cluster of roses1 the   
fragrance of which was delicious1 ,i    
left the spot1 to drive away the sadness
 and melancholy produced by the  scene4 
,the valley contiguous to the mission is
 extensive1 well watered by a  large    
arroyo1 and highly fertile4 ,the gardens
 and other lands for  tillage are       
inclosed by willow hedges4 ,elevated    

hills1 or mountains1  bound this valley 
on the east and west4 ,large herds of   
cattle were  scattered over the valley1 
greedily cropping the fresh green       
herbage1  which now carpets mountain and
 plain4    ,colonel ,fremont marched    
from ,san ,juan this morning1 and       
encamped1 as we  learned on our arrival1
 ten miles south4 ,proceeding up the    
arroyo on  the #bith1 we reached the    
camp of ,colonel ,f4 about noon4 ,i     
immediately  reported1 and delivered    
over to him the men and horses under my 
charge4  ,the men were afterwards       
organized into a separate corps1 of     
which ,mr4  ,r4,t4 ,jacob1 my travelling
 companion1 was appointed the captain by
  ,colonel ,fremont4          ,,chapter 
,,ix4      ,california battalion        
,their appearance and costume    ,list  
of the officers    ,commence our march  
to ,los ,angeles    ,appearance of the  
country in the vicinity of ,san ,juan   
,slaughter of beeves    ,astonishing    
consumption of beef by the men          

,beautiful morning    ,ice    ,salinas  
river and valley    ,californian        
prisoners    ,horses giving out from    
fatigue    ,mission of ,san ,miguel     
,sheep    ,mutton    ,march on foot     
,more prisoners taken    ,death of ,mr4 
,stanley    ,an execution    ,dark night
    ,capture of the mission of ,san     
,luis ,obispo    ,orderly conduct and   
good deportment of the ,california      
battalion4      ,november #cj4--,the    
battalion of mounted riflemen1 under the
 command of  ,lieutenant-,colonel       
,fremont1 numbers1 rank and file1       
including ,indians1  and servants1 #dbh4
 ,with the exception of the exploring   
party1 which  left the ,united ,states  
with ,colonel ,f41 they are composed of 
volunteers  from the ,american settlers1
 and the emigrants who have arrived in  
the  country within a few weeks4 ,the   
latter have generally furnished their   
own ammunition and other equipments for 
the expedition4 ,most of these  are     
practised riflemen1 men of undoubted    

courage1 and capable of  bearing any    
fatigue and privations endurable by     
veteran troops4 ,the  ,indians are      
composed of a party of ,walla-,wallas   
from ,oregon1 and a  party of native    
,californians4 ,attached to the         
battalion are two pieces  of artillery1 
under the command of ,lieutenant        
,mc,lane1 of the navy4 ,in  the         
appearance of our small army there is   
presented but little of the  pomp and   
circumstance of glorious war4 ,there are
 no plumes nodding  over brazen helmets1
 nor coats of broadcloth spangled with  
lace and  buttons4 ,a broad-brimmed     
low-crowned hat1 a shirt of blue        
flannel1 or  buckskin1 with pantaloons  
and mocassins of the same1 all generally
 much  the worse for wear1 and smeared  
with mud and dust1 make up the costume  
of the party1 officers as well as men4  
,a leathern girdle surrounds the  waist1
 from which are suspended a bowie and a 
hunter's knife1 and  sometimes a brace  
of pistols4 ,these1 with the rifle and  

holster-pistols1 are the arms carried by
 officers and privates4 ,a  single bugle
 7and a sorry one it is7 composes the   
band4 ,many an embryo  ,napoleon1 in his
 own conceit1 whose martial spirit has  
been excited to  flaming intensity of   
heat by the peacock-plumage and gaudy   
trappings of  our militia companies1    
when marching through the streets to the
 sound  of drum1 fife1 and brass band1  
if he could have looked upon us1 and    
then consulted the state of the military
 thermometer within him1 would  probably
 have discovered that the mercury of his
 heroism had fallen  several degrees    
below zero4 ,he might even have desired 
that we should  not come        ,between
 the wind and his nobility4    ,war1    
stripped of its pageantry1 possesses but
 few of the attractions  with which     
poetry and painting have embellished it4
 ,the following is a  list of the       
officers composing the ,california      
,battalion3--,lieut4-colonel  ,j4,g4    
,fremont1 commanding2 ,a4,h4 ,gillespie1

 major2 ,p4,b4 ,reading1  paymaster2 ,h4
 ,king1 commissary2 ,j4,r4 ,snyder1     
quartermaster1 since  appointed a       
land-surveyor by ,colonel ,mason2 ,wm4  
,h4 ,russell1 ordnance  officer2 ,t4    
,talbot1 lieutenant and adjutant2 ,j4,j4
 ,myers1 sergeant-major1  appointed     
lieutenant in ,january1 #ahdg4          
,company ,a4--,richard ,owens1 captain2 
,wm4 ,n4 ,loker1 #ast lieutenant1       
appointed adjutant1 ,feb4 #ajth1 #ahdg2 
,b4,m4 ,hudspeth1 #b;d lieutenant1      
appointed captain1 ,feb4 #ahdg1 ,wm4    
,findlay1 #b;d lieutenant1 appointed    
captain1 ,feb4 #ahdg4    ,company       
,b4--,henry ,ford1 captain2 ,andrew     
,copeland1 #ast lieutenant4    ,company 
,c4--,granville ,p4 ,swift1 captain2    
,wm4 ,baldridge1 #ast  lieutenant2 ,wm4 
,hartgrove1 #b;d do4    ,company        
,d4--,john ,sears1 captain2 ,wm4        
,bradshaw1 #ast lieutenant4    ,company 
,e4--,john ,grigsby1 captain2 ,archibald
 ,jesse1 #ast lieutenant4    ,company   
,f4--,l4,w4 ,hastings1 captain 7author  

of a work on ,california72  ,wornbough1 
#ast lieutenant2 ,j4,m4 ,hudspeth1 #b;d 
do4    ,company ,g4--,thompson1 captain2
 ,davis #ast lieutenant2 ,rock1 #b;d do4
    ,company ,h4--,r4,t4 ,jacobs1       
captain2 ,edwin ,bryant1 #ast lieutenant
  7afterwards alcalde at ,san           
,francisco72 ,geo4 ,m4 ,lippincott1 #b;d
 do41 of  ,new ,york4    ,artillery     
,company4--,louis ,mc,lane1 captain     
7afterwards major72 ,john4  ,k4 ,wilson1
 #ast lieutenant1 appointed captain in  
,january1 #ahdg2 ,wm4  ,blackburn1 #b;d 
do4 7now alcalde of ,santa ,cruz74      
,officers on detached ,service and doing
 ,duty at the ,south4--,s4 ,hensley1    
captain2 ,s4 ,gibson1 do4 7lanced       
through the body at ,san ,pascual72     
,miguel ,pedrorena1 do41 ,spaniard      
7appointed by ,stockton72 ,stgo4        
,arguello1 do41 ,californian 7appointed 
by do472 ,bell1 do4 7appointed  by do471
 old resident of ,california 7,los      
,angeles72 ,h4 ,rhenshaw1 #ast          
lieutenant1 7appointed by do472 ,a4     

,godey1 do4 7appointed by do472 ,jas4   
,barton1 do4 7appointed by do472 ,l4    
,arguello1 do41 ,californian  7appointed
 by do474    ,after a march of six or   
eight hours1 up the valley of the       
arroyo1  through a heavy rain1 and mud  
so deep that several of our horses gave 
out from exhaustion1 we encamped in a   
circular bottom1 near a deserted  adobe 
house4 ,a caballada1 of some #ejj or    
#fjj loose horses and mules  is driven  
along with us1 but many of them are     
miserable sore-backed  skeletons1 having
 been exhausted with hard usage and bad 
fare during  the summer campaign4       
,besides these1 we have a large number  
of  pack-mules1 upon which all our      
baggage and provisions are transported4 
,distance #aj miles4    ,we did not move
 on the #ast and #b;d of ,december4     
,there being no cattle in  the vicinity 
of our camp1 a party was sent back to   
the mission1 on the  morning of the     
#ast1 who in the afternoon returned1    
driving before them  about #ajj head1   

most of them in good condition4 ,after a
 sufficient  number were slaughtered to 
supply the camp with meat for the day1  
the  remainder were confined in a corral
 prepared for the purpose1 to be  driven
 along with us1 and slaughtered from day
 to day4 ,the rain has  continued1 with 
short intermissions1 since we commenced 
our march on  the #cjth of ,november4   
,the ground has become saturated with   
water1 and  the small branches are      
swollen into large streams4             
,notwithstanding  these discomforts1 the
 men are in good spirits1 and enjoy     
themselves in  singing1 telling stories1
 and playing monte4    ,december        
#c4--,the rain ceased falling about #h  
o'clock this morning2  and1 the clouds  
breaking away1 the sun cheered us once  
more with his  pleasant beams4 ,the     
battalion was formed into a hollow      
square1 and1 the  order of the day being
 read1 we resumed our march4 ,our       
progress1  through the deep mud1 was    
very slow4 ,the horses were constantly  

giving  out1 and many were left behind4 
,the young and tender grass upon which  
they feed affords but little            
nourishment1 and hard labour soon       
exhausts  them4 ,we encamped on a low   
bluff1 near the arroyo1 timbered with   
evergreen oak4 ,distance #h miles4      
,december #d4--;,i was ordered with a   
small party in advance this  morning4   
,proceeding up the valley a few miles1  
we left it1 crossing  several steep     
hills sparsely timbered with oak1 from  
which we descended  into another small  
valley1 down which we continued to the  
point of its  termination1 near some    
narrow and difficult mountain gorges4   
,in  exploring the gorges1 we discovered
 the trail of a party of  ,californians1
 which had passed south several days    
before us1 and found  a horse which they
 had left in their march4 ,this1        
doubtless1 was a  portion of the party  
which captured ,mr4 ,larkin1 and had the
 engagement  between ,monterey and ,st4 
,juan1 on the #agth ult4 ,the main body 

coming  up1 we encamped at three        
o'clock4 ,the old grass around our camp 
is  abundant2 but having been so much   
washed by the rains1 and consequently   
exhausted of its nutritious qualities1  
the animals refused to eat it4  ,the    
country over which we have travelled    
to-day1 and as far as ,i can  see1 is   
mountainous and broken1 little of it    
being adapted to other  agricultural    
purposes than grazing4    ,thirteen     
beeves are slaughtered every afternoon  
for the consumption of  the battalion4  
,these beeves are generally of good     
size1 and in fair  condition4 ,other    
provisions being entirely exhausted1    
beef constitutes  the only subsistence  
for the men1 and most of the officers4  
,under these  circumstances1 the        
consumption of beef is astonishing4 ,i  
do not know  that ,i shall be believed  
when ,i state a fact1 derived from      
observation  and calculation1 that the  
average consumption per man of fresh    
beef is  at least ten pounds per day4   

,many of them1 ,i believe1 consume much 
more1 and some of them less4 ,nor does  
this quantity appear to be  injurious to
 health1 or fully to satisfy the        
appetite4 ,i have seen some  of the men 
roast their meat and devour it by the   
fire from the hour of  encamping until  
late bed-time4 ,they would then sleep   
until one or two  o'clock in the        
morning1 when1 the cravings of hunger   
being greater than  the desire for      
repose1 the same occupation would be    
resumed1 and  continued until the order 
was given to march4 ,the ,californian   
beef is  generally fat1 juicy1 and      
tender1 and surpasses in flavour any    
which ,i  ever tasted elsewhere4        
,distance #aj miles4    ,december       
#e4--;,i rose before daylight4 ,the moon
 shone brightly4 ,the  temperature was  
cold4 ,the vapour in the atmosphere had 
congealed and  fallen upon the ground in
 feathery flakes1 covering it with a    
white  semi-transparent veil1 or crystal
 sheen1 sparkling in the moonbeams4     

,the smoke from the numerous camp-fires 
soon began to curl languidly up  in     
graceful wreaths1 settling upon the     
mountain summits4 ,the scene was  one   
for the pencil and brush of the artist2 
but1 when the envious sun  rose1 he soon
 stripped ,madam ,earth of her gauzy    
holiday morning-gown1  and exposed her  
every-day petticoat of mud4    ,our     
march to-day has been one of great      
difficulty1 through a deep  brushy      
mountain gorge1 through which it was    
almost impossible to force  the         
field-pieces4 ,in one place they were   
lowered with ropes down a  steep and    
nearly perpendicular precipice of great 
height and depth4 ,we  encamped about   
three o'clock1 ,p4,m41 in a small       
valley4 ,many of the  horses gave out on
 the march1 and were left behind by the 
men1 who came  straggling into camp     
until a late hour of the evening1       
bringing their  saddles and baggage upon
 their shoulders4 ,i noticed1 while     
crossing an  elevated ridge of hills1   

flakes of snow flying in the air1 but   
melting  before they reached the ground4
 ,the small spring-branch on which we   
encamped empties into the ,salinas      
,river4 ,the country surrounding us is  
elevated and broken1 and the soil sandy1
 with but little timber or  grass upon  
it4 ,distance #ab miles4    ,december   
#f4--,morning clear and cool4 ,crossed  
an undulating country1  destitute of    
timber and water1 and encamped in a     
circular valley  surrounded by elevated 
hills1 through which flows a small      
tributary of  the ,salinas4 ,the summits
 of the mountains in sight are covered  
with  snow1 but the temperature in the  
valleys is pleasant4 ,distance #ae      
miles4    ,december #g4--;,ice1 the     
first ,i have seen since entering       
,california1  formed in the branch1 of  
the thickness of window-glass4 ,we      
reached the  valley of the ,salinas     
about eleven o'clock ,a4,m41 and        
encamped for the  day4 ,the river       
,salinas 7laid down in some maps as ,rio

 ,san ,buenaventura7  rises in the      
mountains to the south1 and has a course
 of some sixty or  eighty miles1        
emptying into the ,pacific about twelve 
miles north of  ,monterey4 ,the valley1 
as it approaches the ocean1 is broad and
 fertile1  and there are many fine      
ranchos upon it4 ,but1 higher up1 the   
stream  becomes dry in the summer1 and  
the soil of the valley is arid and      
sandy4 ,the width of the stream at this 
point is about thirty yards4 ,its  banks
 are skirted by narrow belts of small   
timber4 ,a range of elevated  mountains 
rises between this valley and the coast4
 ,a court-martial was  held to-day1 for 
the trial of sundry offenders4 ,distance
 #h miles4    ,december #h4--,morning   
cool1 clear1 and pleasant4 ,two         
,californians were  arrested by the     
rear-guard near a deserted rancho1 and  
brought into  camp4 ,one of them turned 
out to be a person known to be friendly 
to the  ,americans4 ,there has been but 
little variation in the soil or scenery4

  ,but few attempts appear to have been 
made to settle this portion of          
,california4 ,the thefts and hostilities
 of the ,tular ,indians are said to  be 
one of the causes preventing its        
settlement4 ,distance #ae miles4        
,december #i4--,the mornings are cool1  
but the middle of the day is too  warm  
to ride comfortably with our coats on4  
,our march has been  fatiguing and      
difficult1 through several brushy       
ravines and over steep  and elevated    
hills4 ,many horses gave out as usual1  
and were left1 from  inability to       
travel4 ,our caballada is diminishing   
rapidly4 ,distance  #aj miles4          
,december #aj4--,our march has been on  
the main beaten trail1 dry and  hard1   
and over a comparatively level country4 
,we passed the mission of  ,san ,miguel 
about three o'clock1 and encamped in a  
grove of large oak  timber1 three or    
four miles south of it4 ,this mission is
 situated on  the upper waters of the   
,salinas1 in an extensive plain4 ,under 

the  administration of the padres it was
 a wealthy establishment1 and           
manufactures of various kinds were      
carried on4 ,they raised immense        
numbers of sheep1 the fleeces of which  
were manufactured by the ,indians  into 
blankets and coarse cloths4 ,their      
granaries were filled with an  abundance
 of maize and frijoles1 and their       
store-rooms with other  necessaries of  
life1 from the ranchos belonging to the 
mission lands in  the vicinity4 ,now all
 the buildings1 except the church and   
the  principal range of houses          
contiguous1 have fallen into ruins1 and 
an  ,englishman1 his wife1 and one small
 child1 with two or three ,indian       
servants1 are the sole inhabitants4 ,the
 church is the largest ,i have  seen in 
the country1 and its interior is in good
 repair1 although it  has not probably  
been used for the purpose of public     
worship for many  years4 ,the           
,englishman professes to have purchased 
the mission and all  the lands belonging

 to it for #cjj dollars4    ,our stock  
of cattle being exhausted1 we feasted on
 ,californian mutton1  sheep being more 
abundant than cattle at this mission4   
,the wool1 ,i  noticed1 was coarse1 but 
the mutton was of an excellent quality4 
,the  country over which we have        
travelled to-day shows the marks of long
  drought previous to the recent rains4 
,the soil is sandy and gravelly1  and   
the dead vegetation upon it is thin and 
stunted4 ,about eighty of  our horses   
are reported to have given out and been 
left behind4  ,distance #bj miles4      
,december #ab4--,to relieve our horses1 
which are constantly giving out  from   
exhaustion1 the grass being insufficient
 for their sustenance  while performing 
labour1 the entire battalion1 officers  
and men1 were  ordered to march on foot1
 turning their horses1 with the saddles 
and  bridles upon them1 into the general
 caballada1 to be driven along by  the  
horse-guard4 ,the day has been drizzly1 
cold1 and disagreeable4 ,the  country   

has a barren and naked appearance2 but  
this1 ,i believe1 is  attributable to   
the extreme drought that has prevailed  
in this region  for one or two years    
past4 ,we encamped near the rancho of a 
friendly  ,californian--the man who was 
taken prisoner the other day and set at 
large4 ,an ,indian1 said to be the      
servant of ,tortoria ,pico1 was captured
  here by the advance party4 ,a letter  
was found upon him1 but the  contents of
 which ,i never learned4 ,this being the
 first foot-march1  there were1 of      
course1 many galled and blistered feet  
in the battalion4  ,my servant obtained1
 with some difficulty1 from the ,indians
 at the  rancho1 a pint-cup of pinole1  
or parched corn-meal1 and a quart or    
two of wheat1 which1 being boiled1      
furnished some variety in our viands  at
 supper1 fresh beef having been our only
 subsistence since the  commencement of 
the march from ,san ,juan4 ,distance #ab
 miles4    ,december #ac4--;,a rainy    
disagreeable morning4 ,mr4 ,stanley1 one

 of the  volunteers1 and one of the     
gentlemen who so kindly supplied us with
  provisions on ,mary's ,river1 died    
last night4 ,he has been suffering from 
an attack of typhoid fever since the    
commencement of our march1 and  unable  
most of the time to sit upon his horse4 
,he was buried this  morning in a small 
circular opening in the timber near our 
camp4 ,the  battalion was formed in a   
hollow square surrounding the grave     
which had  been excavated for the final 
resting-place of our deceased friend and
  comrade4 ,there was neither bier1 nor 
coffin1 nor pall--        ,not a drum   
was heard1 nor a funeral note4    ,the  
cold earth was heaped upon his mortal   
remains in silent solemnity1  and the   
ashes of a braver or a better man will  
never repose in the  lonely hills of    
,california4    ,after the funeral the  
battalion was marched a short distance  
to witness  another scene1 not more     
mournful1 but more harrowing than the   
last4 ,the  ,indian captured at the     

rancho yesterday was condemned to die4  
,he was  brought from his place of      
confinement and tied to a tree4 ,here he
 stood  some fifteen or twenty minutes1 
until the ,indians from a neighbouring  
rancheria could be brought to witness   
the execution4 ,a file of  soldiers were
 then ordered to fire upon him4 ,he fell
 upon his knees1  and remained in that  
position several minutes without        
uttering a groan1  and then sank upon   
the earth4 ,no human being could have   
met his fate  with more composure1 or   
with stronger manifestations of courage4
 ,it was  a scene such as ,i desire     
never to witness again4    ,a cold rain 
fell upon us during the entire day's    
march4 ,we encamped at  four o'clock1   
,p4,m42 but the rain poured down in such
 torrents that it  was impossible to    
light our camp-fires and keep them      
burning4 ,this  continued nearly the    
whole night1 and ,i have rarely passed a
 night more  uncomfortably4 ,a scouting 
party brought in two additional         

prisoners  this evening4 ,another       
returned1 and reported the capture of a 
number of  horses1 and the destruction  
of a rancho by fire4 ,distance #ab      
miles4    ,december #ad4--,the battalion
 commenced its march on foot and in a   
heavy rain4 ,the mud is very deep1 and  
we have been compelled to wade  several 
streams of considerable depth1 being    
swollen by the recent  rains4 ,at one   
o'clock a halt was ordered1 and beef    
slaughtered and  cooked for dinner4 ,the
 march was resumed late in the          
afternoon1 and the  plain surrounding   
the mission of ,san ,luis ,obispo was   
reached in the  pitch darkness of the   
night1 a family in the canada having    
been taken  prisoners by the advance    
party to prevent them from giving the   
alarm4  ,the battalion was so disposed  
as to surround the mission and take     
prisoners all contained within it4 ,the 
place was entered in great  confusion1  
on account of the darkness1 about nine  
o'clock4 ,there was no  military force  

at the mission1 and the few inhabitants 
were greatly  alarmed1 as may well be   
supposed1 by this sudden invasion4 ,they
 made no  resistance1 and were all taken
 prisoners except one or two1 who       
managed  to escape and fled in great    
terror1 no one knew where or how4 ,it   
being  ascertained that ,tortoria ,pico1
 a man who has figured conspicuously in 
most of the ,californian revolutions1   
was in the neighbourhood1 a party  was  
despatched immediately to the place1 and
 he was brought in a  prisoner4 ,the    
night was rainy and boisterous1 and the 
soldiers were  quartered to the best    
advantage in the miserable mud houses1  
and no  acts of violence or outrage of  
any kind were committed4    ,the men    
composing the ,californian battalion1 as
 ,i have before stated1  have been drawn
 from many sources1 and are roughly     
clad1 and  weather-beaten in their      
exterior appearance2 but ,i feel it but 
justice  here to state my belief1 that  
no military party ever passed through an

  enemy's country and observed the same 
strict regard for the rights of  its    
population4 ,i never heard of an        
outrage1 or even a trespass being       
committed by one of the ,american       
volunteers during our entire march4     
,every ,american appeared to understand 
perfectly the duty which he owed  to    
himself and others in this respect1 and 
the deportment of the  battalion might  
be cited as a model for imitation4      
,distance #ah miles4          ,,chapter 
,x4      ,tremendous rain    ,mission of
 ,san ,luis ,obispo    ,gardens         
,various fruits    ,farm    ,cactus tuna
    ,calinche    ,pumpkins    ,trial of 
,tortoria ,pico    ,procession of women 
,pico's pardon    ,leave ,san ,luis     
,surf of the ,pacific    ,captain ,dana 
,tempestuous night    ,mission of ,st4  
,ynes    ,effects of drought    ,horses 
exhausted    ,st4 ,ynes ,mountain       
,view of the plain of ,santa ,barbara   
and the ,pacific    ,a wretched         
,christmas-day    ,descent of ,st4 ,ynes

 ,mountain    ,terrible storm           
,frightful destruction of horses        
,dark night    ,what we are fighting for
    ,arrive at ,santa ,barbara    ,town 
deserted4      ,december #ae4--,the rain
 fell in cataracts the entire day4 ,the 
small  streams which flow from the      
mountains through1 and water the valley 
of1  ,san ,luis ,obispo1 are swollen by 
the deluge of water from the clouds     
into foaming unfordable torrents4 ,in   
order not to trespass upon the          
population at the mission1 in their     
miserable abodes of mud1 the church  was
 opened1 and a large number of the      
soldiers were quartered in it4 ,a       
guard1 however1 was set day and night1  
over the chancel and all other  property
 contained in the building1 to prevent  
its being injured or  disturbed4 ,the   
decorations of the church are much the  
same as ,i have  before described4 ,the 
edifice is large1 and the interior in   
good  repair4 ,the floor is paved with  
square bricks4 ,i noticed a common      

hand-organ in the church1 which played  
the airs we usually hear from           
organ-grinders in the street4           
,besides the main large buildings       
connected with the church1 there are    
standing1 and partially occupied1       
several small squares of adobe  houses1 
belonging to this mission4 ,the heaps of
 mud1 and crumbling  walls outside of   
these1 are evidence that the place was  
once of much  greater extent1 and       
probably one of the most opulent and    
prosperous  establishments of the kind  
in the country4 ,the lands surrounding  
the  mission are finely situated for    
cultivation and irrigation if           
necessary4 ,there are several large     
gardens1 inclosed by high and           
substantial walls1 which now contain a  
great variety of fruit-trees and        
shrubbery4 ,i noticed the orange1 fig1  
palm1 olive1 and grape4 ,there are  also
 large inclosures hedged in by the      
prickly-pear 7cactus71 which  grows to  
an enormous size1 and makes an          

impervious barrier against man  or      
beast4 ,the stalks of some of these     
plants are of the thickness of a  man's 
body1 and grow to the height of fifteen 
feet4 ,a juicy fruit is  produced by the
 prickly-pear1 named tuna1 from which a 
beverage is  sometimes made1 called     
calinche4 ,it has a pleasant flavour1 as
 has  also the fruit1 which1 when ripe1 
is blood-red4 ,a small quantity of      
pounded wheat was found here1 which1    
being purchased1 was served out to  the 
troops1 about a pound to the man4       
,frijoles and pumpkins were also        
obtained1 delicacies of no common order4
    ,december #af4--;,a court-martial   
was convened this morning for the trial 
of ,pico1 the principal prisoner1 on the
 charge1 ,i understood1 of the          
forfeiture of his parole which had been 
taken on a former occasion4 ,the        
sentence of the court was1 that he      
should be shot or hung1 ,i do not  know 
which4 ,a rumour is current among the   
population here1 that there  has been an

 engagement between a party of          
,americans and ,californians1  near ,los
 ,angeles1 in which the former were     
defeated with the loss of  thirty men   
killed4    ,december #ag4--;,cool1 with 
a hazy sky4 ,while standing in one of   
the  corridors this morning1 a          
procession of females passed by me1     
headed by  a lady of fine appearance and
 dressed with remarkable taste and      
neatness1 compared with those who       
followed her4 ,their rebosos  concealed 
the faces of most of them1 except the   
leader1 whose beautiful  features1 dare 
say1 she thought 7and justly7 required  
no concealment4  ,they proceeded to the 
quarters of ,colonel ,fremont1 and their
 object1 ,i  understood1 was to petition
 for the reprieve or pardon of ,pico1   
who had  been condemned to death by the 
court-martial yesterday1 and whose      
execution was expected to take place    
this morning4 ,their intercession  was  
successful1 as no execution took place1 
and in a short time all the  prisoners  

were discharged1 and the order to saddle
 up and march given4  ,we resumed our   
march at ten o'clock1 and encamped just 
before sunset in  a small but           
picturesque and fertile valley timbered 
with oak1 so near  the coast that the   
roar of the surf breaking against the   
shore could be  heard distinctly4       
,distance seven miles4    ,december     
#ah4--;,clear1 with a delightful        
temperature4 ,before the sun  rose the  
grass was covered with a white frost4   
,the day throughout has  been calm and  
beautiful4 ,a march of four miles       
brought us to the shore  of a small     
indentation in the coast of the         
,pacific1 where vessels can  anchor1 and
 boats can land when the wind is not too
 fresh4 ,the surf is  now rolling and   
foaming with prodigious energy--breaking
 upon the beach  in long lines one      
behind the other1 and striking the shore
 like  cataracts4 ,the hills and plains 
are verdant with a carpet of fresh      
grass1 and the scattered live-oaks on   

all sides1 appearing like  orchards of  
fruit-trees1 give to the country an old 
and cultivated  aspect4 ,the mountains  
bench away on our left1 the low hills   
rising in  gentle conical forms1 beyond 
which are the more elevated and         
precipitous peaks covered with snow4 ,we
 encamped about three o'clock  near the 
rancho of ,captain ,dana1 in a large and
 handsome valley well  watered by an    
arroyo4    ,captain ,dana is a native of
 ,massachusetts1 and has resided in this
  country about thirty years4 ,he is    
known and esteemed throughout           
,california for his intelligence and    
private virtues1 and his unbounded      
generosity and hospitality4 ,i purchased
 here a few loaves of wheat  bread1 and 
distributed them among the men belonging
 to our company as  far as they would   
go1 a luxury which they have not        
indulged in since  the commencement of  
the march4 ,distance #ae miles4         
,december #ai4--,the night was cold and 
tempestuous1 with a slight fall  of     

rain4 ,the clouds broke away after      
sunrise1 and the day became warm  and   
pleasant4 ,we continued our march up the
 valley1 and encamped near  its head4   
,the table-land and hills are generally 
gravelly1 but appear  to be productive  
of fine grass4 ,the soil of the bottom  
is of the  richest and most productive  
composition4 ,we crossed in the course  
of  the day a wide flat plain1 upon     
which were grazing large herds of       
brood-mares 7manadas7 and cattle4 ,in   
the distance they resembled  large      
armies approaching us4 ,the peaks of the
 elevated mountains in  sight are       
covered with snow4 ,a large number of   
horses gave out1  strayed1 and were left
 behind to-day1 estimated at one        
hundred4 ,the men  came into camp       
bringing their saddles on their backs1  
and some of them  arriving late in the  
evening4 ,distance #ah miles4           
,december #bj4--,parties were sent back 
this morning to gather up horses  and   
baggage left on the march yesterday1 and

 it was one o'clock before  the         
rear-guard1 waiting for the return of   
those1 left camp4 ,the main  body made a
 short march and encamped early1 in a   
small hollow near the  rancho of ,mr4   
,faxon1 through which flows an arroyo1  
the surrounding  hills being timbered   
with evergreen oaks4 ,the men amused    
themselves  during the afternoon in     
target-shooting4 ,many of the battalion 
are fine  marksmen with the rifle1 and  
the average of shots could not easily be
  surpassed4 ,the camp spread over an   
undulating surface of half a mile in    
diameter1 and at night1 when the fires  
were lighted1 illuminating the  grove1  
with its drapery of drooping ,spanish   
moss1 it presented a most  picturesque  
appearance4 ,distance #c miles4         
,december #ba4--;,clear and pleasant4 ,a
 foot march was ordered1 with the       
exception of the horse and baggage      
guard4 ,we marched several miles        
through a winding hollow1 passing a     
deserted rancho1 and ascending with     

much labour a steep ridge of hills1     
descending which we entered a  handsome 
valley1 and encamped upon a small stream
 about four miles from  the mission of  
,st4 ,ynes4 ,the banks of the arroyo are
 strewn with dead  and prostrate timber1
 the trees1 large and small1 having been
  overthrown by tornados4 ,the plain has
 suffered1 like much of the  country we 
have passed through1 by a long-continued
 drought1 but the  composition of the   
soil is such as indicates fertility1 and
 from the  effects of the late rains the
 grass is springing up with great       
luxuriance1 from places which before    
were entirely denuded of  vegetation4 ,a
 party was sent from camp to inspect the
 mission1 but  returned without making  
any important discoveries4 ,our horses  
are so  weak that many of them are      
unable to carry their saddles1 and were 
left  on the road as usual4 ,a man had  
his leg broken on the march to-day1 by  
the kick of a mule4 ,he was sent back to
 the rancho of ,mr4 ,faxon4  ,distance  

#ae miles4    ,december #bb4--;,clear   
and pleasant4 ,being of the party which 
performed  rear-guard duty to-day1 with 
orders to bring in all stragglers1 we   
did  not leave camp until several hours 
after the main body had left4 ,the      
horses of the caballada and the         
pack-animals were continually giving    
out and refusing to proceed4 ,parties of
 men1 exhausted1 lay down upon  the     
ground1 and it was with much urging1 and
 sometimes with peremptory  commands    
only1 that they could be prevailed upon 
to proceed4 ,the  country bears the same
 marks of drought heretofore described1 
but fresh  vegetation is now springing  
up and appears vigorous4 ,a large       
horse-trail loading into one of the     
canadas of the mountains on our  left   
was discovered by the scouts1 and a     
party was dispatched to trace  it4 ,we  
passed one deserted rancho1 and reached 
camp between nine and  ten o'clock at   
night1 having forced in all the men and 
most of the  horses and pack-mules4     

,distance #ae miles4    ,december       
#bc4--,rain fell steadily and heavily   
the entire day4 ,a small  party of men  
was in advance4 ,discovering in a brushy
 valley two ,indians  armed with bows   
and arrows1 they were taken prisoners4  
,learning from  them that there was a   
caballada of horses secreted in one of  
the  canadas1 they continued on about   
ten miles1 and found about  twenty-five 
fresh fat horses1 belonging to a        
,californian now among the  insurgents  
below4 ,they were taken and delivered at
 the camp near the  eastern base of the 
,st4 ,ynes ,mountain4 ,passed this      
morning a rancho  inhabited by a        
foreigner1 an ,englishman4    ,december 
#bd4--;,cloudy and cool1 with an        
occasional sprinkling rain4  ,our route 
to-day lay directly over the ,st4 ,ynes 
,mountain1 by an  elevated and most     
difficult pass4 ,the height of this     
mountain is  several thousand feet4 ,we 
reached the summit about twelve o'clock1
 and1  our company composing the        

advance-guard1 we encamped about a mile 
and a  half in advance of the main body 
of the battalion1 at a point which      
overlooks the beautiful plain of ,santa 
,barbara1 of which1 and the ocean       
beyond1 we had a most extended and      
interesting view4 ,with the  spy-glass1 
we could see1 in the plain far below us1
 herds of cattle  quietly grazing upon  
the green herbage that carpets its      
gentle  undulations4 ,the plain is      
dotted with groves1 surrounding the     
springs  and belting the small          
water-courses1 of which there are many  
flowing  from this range of mountains4  
,ranchos are scattered far up and down  
the  plain1 but not one human being     
could be seen stirring4 ,about ten or   
twelve miles to the south1 the white    
towers of the mission of ,santa         
,barbara raise themselves4 ,beyond is   
the illimitable waste of waters4 ,a     
more lovely and picturesque landscape ,i
 never beheld4 ,on the summit of  the   
mountain1 and surrounding us1 there is a

 growth of hawthorn1  manzinita 7in     
bloom71 and other small shrubbery4 ,the 
rock is soft  sandstone and             
conglomerate1 immense masses of which1  
piled one upon  another1 form a wall    
along the western brow of the mountain1 
through  which there is a single pass or
 gateway about eight or ten feet in     
width4 ,the descent on the western side 
is precipitous1 and appears  almost     
impassable4 ,distance #d miles4         
,december #be4--;,christmas-day1 and a  
memorable one to me4 ,owing to the      
difficulty in hauling the cannon up the 
steep acclivities of the  mountain1 the 
main body of the battalion did not come 
up with us until  twelve o'clock1 and   
before we commenced the descent of the  
mountain a  furious storm commenced1    
raging with a violence rarely surpassed4
 ,the  rain fell in torrents1 and the   
wind blew almost with the force of a    
tornado4 ,this fierce strife of the     
elements continued without abatement    
the entire afternoon1 and until two     

o'clock at night4 ,driving our  horses  
before us1 we were compelled to slide   
down the steep and  slippery rocks1 or  
wade through deep gullies and ravines   
filled with  mud and foaming torrents of
 water1 that rushed downwards with such 
force as to carry along the loose rocks 
and tear up the trees and  shrubbery by 
the roots4 ,many of the horses falling  
into the ravines  refused to make an    
effort to extricate themselves1 and were
 swept  downwards and drowned4 ,others1 
bewildered by the fierceness and terrors
  of the storm1 rushed or fell headlong 
over the steep precipices and  were     
killed4 ,others obstinately refused to  
proceed1 but stood quaking  with fear or
 shivering with cold1 and many of these 
perished in the  night from the severity
 of the storm4 ,the advance party did   
not reach  the foot of the mountain and 
find a place to encamp until night--and 
a  night of more impenetrable and       
terrific darkness ,i never witnessed4   
,the  ground upon which our camp was    

made1 although sloping from the hills to
  a small stream1 was so saturated with 
water that men as well as horses  sunk  
deep at every step4 ,the rain fell in   
such quantities1 that fires  with great 
difficulty could be lighted1 and most of
 them were  immediately extinguished4   
,the officers and men belonging to the  
company having the cannon in  charge    
laboured until nine or ten o'clock to   
bring them down the  mountain1 but they 
were finally compelled to leave them4   
,much of the  baggage also remained on  
the side of the mountain1 with the      
pack-mules  and horses conveying them1  
all efforts to force the animals down   
being  fruitless4 ,the men continued to 
straggle into the camp until a late     
hour of the night2--some crept under the
 shelving rocks and did not  come in    
until the next morning4 ,we were so     
fortunate as to find our  tent1 and     
after much difficulty pitched it under  
an oak-tree4 ,all  efforts to light a   
fire and keep it blazing proving        

abortive1 we spread  our blankets upon  
the ground and endeavoured to sleep1    
although we  could feel the cold streams
 of water running through the tent and  
between and around our bodies4    ,in   
this condition we remained until about  
two o'clock in the morning1  when the   
storm having abated ,i rose1 and shaking
 from my garments the  dripping water1  
after many unsuccessful efforts         
succeeded in kindling a  fire4 ,near our
 tent ,i found three soldiers who had   
reached camp at a  late hour4 ,they were
 fast asleep on the ground1 the water   
around them  being two or three inches  
deep2 but they had taken care to keep   
their  heads above water1 by using a log
 of wood for a pillow4 ,the fire        
beginning to blaze freely1 ,i dug a     
ditch with my hands and a sharp  stick  
of wood1 which drained off the pool     
surrounding the tent4 ,one of  the men1 
when he felt the sensation consequent   
upon being high and  dry1 roused        
himself1 and1 sitting upright1 looked   

around for some time  with an expression
 of bewildered amazement4 ,at length he 
seemed to  realize the true state of the
 case1 and exclaimed1 in a tone of      
energetic soliloquy1--    ,well1 who    
wouldn't be a soldier and fight for     
,california8    ,you are mistaken1 ,i   
replied4    ,rubbing his eyes1 he gazed 
at me with astonishment1 as if having   
been  entirely unconscious of my        
presence2 but1 reassuring himself1 he   
said3    ,how mistaken8    ,why1 ,i     
answered1 you are not fighting for      
,california4    ,what the d----l1 then1 
am ,i fighting for8 he inquired4    ,for
 ,,texas4    ,texas be d----d2 but      
hurrah for ,general ,jackson6 and with  
this  exclamation he threw himself back 
again upon his wooden pillow1 and was   
soon snoring in a profound slumber4     
,making a platform composed of sticks of
 wood upon the soft mud1 ,i  stripped   
myself to the skin1 wringing the water  
from each garment as ,i  proceeded4 ,i  
then commenced drying them by the fire  

in the order that  they were replaced   
upon my body1 an employment that        
occupied me until  daylight1 which sign1
 above the high mountain to the east1   
down which  we had rolled rather than   
marched yesterday1 ,i was truly rejoiced
 to  see4 ,distance #c miles4           
,december #bf4--,parties were detailed  
early this morning1 and  despatched up  
the mountain to bring down the cannon1  
and collect the  living horses and      
baggage4 ,the destruction of            
horse-flesh1 by those who  witnessed the
 scene by daylight1 is described as     
frightful4 ,in some  places large       
numbers of dead horses were piled       
together4 ,in others1  horses half      
buried in the mud of the ravines1 or    
among the rocks1 were  gasping in the   
agonies of death4 ,the number of dead   
animals is  variously estimated at from 
seventy-five to one hundred and fifty1  
by  different persons4 ,the cannon1 most
 of the missing baggage1 and the  living
 horses1 were all brought in by noon4   

,the day was busily employed  in        
cleansing our rifles and pistols1 and   
drying our drenched baggage4            
,december #bg4--,preparations were      
commenced early for the resumption of   
our march2 but such was the condition of
 everything around us1 that it  was two 
o'clock1 ,p4,m41 before the battalion   
was in readiness2 and then  so great had
 been the loss of horses in various     
ways1 that the number  remaining was    
insufficient to mount the men4 ,one or  
two companies1 and  portions of others1 
were compelled to march on foot4 ,we    
were visited  during the forenoon by    
,mr4 ,sparks1 an ,american1 ,dr4 ,den1  
an ,irishman1  and ,mr4 ,burton1 another
 ,american1 residents of ,santa         
,barbara4 ,they had  been suffered by   
the ,californians to remain in the      
place4 ,their  information communicated 
to us was1 that the town was deserted of
  nearly all its population4 ,a few     
houses only were occupied4 ,passing     
down a beautiful and fertile undulating 

plain1 we encamped just before  sunset  
in a live-oak grove1 about half a mile  
from the town of ,santa  ,barbara4      
,strict orders were issued by ,col4     
,fremont1 that the property  and the    
persons of ,californians1 not found in  
arms1 should be sacredly  respected4 ,to
 prevent all collisions1 no soldier was 
allowed to pass  the lines of the camp  
without special permission1 or orders   
from his  officers4    ,i visited the   
town before dark1 but found the houses1 
with few  exceptions1 closed1 and the   
streets deserted4 ,after hunting about  
some  time1 we discovered a miserable   
dwelling1 occupied by a shoemaker and   
his family1 open4 ,entering it1 we were 
very kindly received by its  occupants1 
who1 with a princely supply of civility1
 possessed but a  beggarly array of     
comforts4 ,at our request they provided 
for us a  supper of tortillas1 frijoles1
 and stewed carne seasoned with  chile  
colorado1 for which1 paying them dos    
pesos for four1 we bade  them good      

evening1 all parties being well         
satisfied4 ,the family  consisted1      
exclusive of the shoemaker1 of a dozen  
women and children1  of all ages4 ,the  
women1 from the accounts they had       
received of the  intentions of the      
,americans1 were evidently unprepared   
for civil  treatment from them4 ,they   
expected to be dealt with in a very     
barbarous  manner1 in all respects2 but 
they were disappointed1 and invited us  
to visit them again4 ,distance #h miles4
          ,,chapter ,,xi4      ,santa   
,barbara    ,picturesque situation      
,fertility of the country    ,climate   
,population    ,society    ,leave ,santa
 ,barbara    ,rincon    ,grampus        
,mission of ,st4 ,buenaventura    ,fine 
gardens    ,meet a party of mounted     
,californians    ,they retreat before us
    ,abundance of maize    ,arrival of  
couriers from ,com4 ,stockton           
,effects of war upon the country        
,more of the enemy in sight    ,news of 
the capture of ,los ,angeles1 by ,gen4  

,kearny and ,com4 ,stockton    ,mission 
of ,san ,fernando    ,the ,maguey       
,capitulation of the ,californians      
,arrive at ,los ,angeles    ,general    
reflections upon the march    ,meet with
 old acquaintances4      ,the battalion 
remained encamped at ,santa ,barbara1   
from the #bgth of  ,december to the #crd
 of ,january1 #ahdg4 ,the ,u4,s4 flag   
was raised in the  public square of the 
town the day after our arrival4    ,the 
town of ,santa ,barbara is beautifully  
situated for the picturesque1  about one
 mile from the shore of a roadstead1    
which affords anchorage  for vessels of 
any size1 and a landing for boats in    
calm weather4  ,during stormy weather1  
or the prevalence of strong winds from  
the  south-east1 vessels1 for safety1   
are compelled to stand out to sea4 ,a   
fertile plain extends some twenty or    
thirty miles up and down the  coast1    
varying in breadth from two to ten      
miles1 and bounded on the  east by a    
range of high mountains4 ,the population

 of the town ,i should  judge1 from the 
number of houses1 to be about #abjj     
souls4 ,most of the  houses are         
constructed of adobes1 in the usual     
architectural style of  ,mexican        
buildings4 ,some of them1 however1 are  
more ,americanized1 and  have some      
pretensions to tasteful architecture1   
and comfortable and  convenient interior
 arrangement4 ,its commerce1 ,i presume1
 is limited to  the export of hides and 
tallow produced upon the surrounding    
plain2 and  the commodities received in 
exchange for these from the traders on  
the  coast4 ,doubtless1 new and yet     
undeveloped sources of wealth will be   
discovered hereafter that will render   
this town of much greater  importance   
than it is at present4    ,on the coast1
 a few miles above ,santa ,barbara1     
there are1 ,i have been  told1 immense  
quantities of pure bitumen or mineral   
tar1 which1 rising  in the ocean1 has   
been thrown upon the shore by the waves1
 where in a  concrete state1 like resin1

 it has accumulated in inexhaustible    
masses4  ,there are1 doubtless1 many    
valuable minerals in the neighbouring   
mountains1 which1 when developed by     
enterprise1 will add greatly to the     
wealth and importance of the town4 ,for 
intelligence1 refinement1 and           
civilization1 the population1 it is     
said1 will compare advantageously  with 
any in ,california4 ,some old and       
influential ,spanish families are       
residents of this place2 but their      
casas1 with the exception of that  of   
,senor ,don ,jos ,noriega1 the largest  
house in the place1 are now  closed and 
deserted4 ,senor ,n4 is one of the      
oldest and most respectable  citizens of
 ,california1 having filled the highest 
offices in the  government of the       
country4 ,one of his daughters is a     
resident of ,new  ,york1 having married 
,alfred ,robinson1 ,esq41 of that city1 
author of  ,life in ,california4    ,the
 climate1 judging from the indications  
while we remained here1 must  be        

delightful1 even in winter4 ,with the   
exception of one day1 which was         
tempestuous1 the temperature at night   
did not fall below #ej1 and  during the 
day the average was between #fj and #gj4
 ,the atmosphere was  perfectly clear   
and serene1 the weather resembling that 
of the pleasant  days of ,april in the  
same latitude on the ,atlantic side of  
the  continent4 ,it is a peculiarity of 
the ,mexicans that they allow no shade  
or ornamental trees to grow near their  
houses4 ,in none of the streets  of the 
towns or missions through which ,i have 
passed has there been a  solitary tree  
standing4 ,i noticed very few           
horticultural attempts in  ,santa       
,barbara4 ,at the mission1 about two    
miles distant1 which is an  extensive   
establishment and in good preservation1 
,i was told that there  were fine       
gardens1 producing most of the varieties
 of fruits of the  tropical and         
temperate climates4    ,several         
,californians came into camp and offered

 to deliver themselves  up4 ,they were  
permitted to go at large4 ,they         
represented that the  ,californian force
 at the south was daily growing weaker  
from  dissensions and desertions4 ,the  
,united ,states prize-schooner ,julia   
arrived on the #cjth1 from which was    
landed a cannon for the use of the      
battalion4 ,it has1 however1 to be      
mounted on wheels1 and the gear         
necessary for hauling it has to be made 
in the camp4 ,reports were  current in  
camp on the #cast1 that the             
,californians intended to meet and      
fight us at ,san ,buenaventura1 about   
thirty miles distant4 ,on the #ast of   
,january1 the ,indians of the mission   
and town celebrated new-year's day1  by 
a procession1 music1 etc41 etc4 ,they   
marched from the mission to the  town1  
and through most of the empty and       
otherwise silent streets4 ,among  the   
airs they played was ,yankee ,doodle4   
,january #c4--;,a beautiful spring-like 
day4 ,we resumed our march at #aa       

o'clock1 and encamped in a live-oak     
grove about ten miles south of          
,santa-,barbara4 ,our route has been    
generally near the shore of the  ocean4 
,timber is abundant1 and the grass and  
other vegetation  luxuriant4 ,distance  
#aj miles4    ,january #d4--;,at the    
,rincon1 or passage between two points  
of land  jutting into the ocean1 so     
narrow that at high tides the surf      
dashes  against the neatly perpendicular
 bases of the mountains which bound the 
shore1 it has been supposed the hostile 
,californians would make a  stand1 the  
position being so advantageous to them4 
,the road1 if road it  can be called1   
where all marks of hoofs or wheels are  
erased by each  succeeding tide1 runs   
along a hard sand-beach1 with occasional
  projections of small points of level  
ground1 ten or fifteen miles1 and  the  
surf1 even when the tide has fallen     
considerably1 frequently  reaches to the
 bellies of the horses4 ,some           
demonstration has been  confidently     

expected here1 but we encamped in this  
pass the first day  without meeting an  
enemy or seeing a sign of one4 ,our camp
 is close to  the ocean1 and the roar of
 the surf1 as it dashes against the     
shore1 is  like that of an immense      
cataract4 ,hundreds of the grampus whale
 are  sporting a mile or two distant    
from the land1 spouting up water and    
spray to a great height1 in columns     
resembling steam from the  escape-pipes 
of steam-boats4 ,distance #f miles4     
,january #e4--,the prize-schooner ,julia
 was lying off in sight this  morning1  
for the purpose of co-operating with us1
 should there be any  attempt on the    
part of the enemy to interrupt the march
 of the  battalion4 ,we reached the     
mission of ,san ,buenaventura1 and      
encamped a  short distance from it at   
two o'clock4 ,soon after1 a small party 
of  ,californians exhibited themselves  
on an elevation just beyond the         
mission4 ,the battalion was immediately 
called to arms1 and marched out  to meet

 them4 ,but1 after the discharge of the 
two field-pieces1 they  scampered away  
like a flock of antelopes1 and the      
battalion returned to  camp1 with none  
killed or wounded on either side4 ,under
 the belief that  there was a larger    
force of ,californians encamped at a    
distance of some  five or six miles1 and
 that during the night they might       
attempt a  surprise1 or plant cannon on 
the summit of a hill about a mile from  
camp1 so as to annoy us1 a party1 of    
which ,i was one1 was detached1  after  
dark1 to occupy the hill secretly4 ,we  
marched around the mission  as privately
 as possible1 and took our position on  
the hill1 where we  remained all night  
without the least disturbance1 except by
 the  tempestuous wind1 which blew a    
blast so cold and piercing as almost to 
congeal the blood4 ,when the sun rose in
 the morning1 ,i could see1 far  out in 
the ocean1 three vessels scudding before
 the gale like phantom  ships4 ,one of  
these was the little schooner that had  

been waiting upon  us while marching    
along the ,rincon4 ,distance #ad miles4 
,january #f4--,the wind has blown a gale
 in our faces all day1 and the  clouds  
of dust have been almost blinding4 ,the 
mission of ,san  ,buenaventura does not 
differ1 in its general features1 from   
those of  other establishments of the   
same kind heretofore described4 ,there  
is a  large garden1 inclosed by a high  
wall1 attached to the mission1 in  which
 ,i noticed a great variety of          
fruit-trees and ornamental  shrubbery4  
,there are also numerous inclosures1 for
 cultivation1 by  willow hedges4 ,the   
soil1 when properly tilled1 appears to  
be highly  productive4 ,this mission is 
situated about two miles from the shore 
of  a small bay or indentation of the   
coast1 on the edge of a plain or  valley
 watered by the ,rio ,santa ,clara1     
which empties into the ,pacific  at this
 point4 ,a chain of small islands1 from 
ten to twenty miles from  the shore1    
commences at ,santa ,barbara1 and       

extends south along the  coast1 to the  
bay of ,san ,pedro4 ,these islands      
present to the eye a  barren appearance4
 ,at present the only inhabitants of the
 mission are a  few ,indians1 the white 
population having abandoned it on our   
approach1  with the exception of one    
man1 who met us yesterday and           
surrendered  himself a prisoner4        
,proceeding up the valley about seven   
miles from the mission1 we  discovered  
at a distance a party of sixty or       
seventy mounted  ,californians1 drawn up
 in order on the bank of the river4     
,this1 it was  conjectured1 might be    
only a portion of a much larger force   
stationed  here1 and concealed in a deep
 ravine which runs across the valley1 or
  in the canadas of the hills on our    
left4 ,scouting-parties mounted the     
hills1 for the purpose of ascertaining  
if such was the case4 ,in the  mean     
time1 the party of ,californians on our 
right scattered themselves  over the    
plain1 prancing their horses1 waving    

their swords1 banners1  and lances1 and 
performing a great variety of equestrian
 feats4 ,they  were mounted on fine     
horses1 and there are no better         
horsemen1 if as  good1 in the world1    
than ,californians4 ,they took especial 
care1  however1 to keep beyond the reach
 of cannon-shot4 ,the battalion wheeled 
to the left for the purpose of crossing 
a point of hills jutting into  the      
plain1 and taking the supposed concealed
 party of the enemy on  their flank4 ,it
 was1 however1 found impracticable to   
cross the hills  with the cannon2 and1  
returning to the plain1 the march was   
continued1  the ,californians still     
prancing and performing their antics in 
our  faces4 ,our horses were so poor and
 feeble that it was impossible to  chase
 them with any hope of success4 ,as we  
proceeded1 they retreated4  ,some of the
 ,indian scouts1 among whom were a      
,delaware named ,tom1 who  distinguished
 himself in the engagement near ,san    
,juan1 and a  ,californian ,indian named

 ,gregorio1 rode towards them2 and two  
or three  guns were discharged on both  
sides1 but without any damage1 the      
parties  not being within dangerous     
gun-shot distance of each other4 ,the   
,californians then formed themselves in 
a body1 and soon disappeared  behind    
some hills on our right4 ,we encamped   
about four o'clock in the  valley1 the  
wind blowing almost a hurricane1 and the
 dust flying so as  nearly to blind us4 
,distance #i miles4    ,january         
#g4--;,continuing our march up the      
valley1 we encamped near the  rancho of 
,carrillo1 where we found an abundance  
of corn1 wheat1 and  frijoles4 ,the     
house was shut up1 having been deserted 
by its  proprietor1 who is said to be   
connected with the rebellion4           
,californian  scouts were seen          
occasionally to-day on the summits of   
the hills south  of us4 ,distance #g    
miles4    ,january #h4--;,another       
tempestuous day4 ,i do not remember ever
 to have  experienced such disagreeable 

effects from the wind and the clouds of 
dust in which we were constantly        
enveloped1 driving into our faces       
without intermission4 ,we encamped this 
afternoon in a grove of willows  near a 
rancho1 where1 as yesterday1 we found   
corn and beans in  abundance4 ,our      
horses1 consequently1 fare well1 and we 
fare better than  we have done4         
,one-fourth of the battalion1 exclusive 
of the regular  guard1 is kept under    
arms during the night1 to be prepared   
against  surprises and night-attacks4   
,distance #ab miles4    ,january        
#i4--;,early this morning ,captain      
,hamley1 accompanied by a  ,californian 
as a guide1 came into camp1 with        
despatches from ,commodore  ,stockton4  
,the exact purport of these despatches  
,i never learned1 but it  was understood
 that the commodore1 in conjunction with
 ,general ,kearny1  was marching upon   
,los ,angeles1 and that1 if they had not
 already  reached and taken that town   
7the present capital of ,california71   

they  were by this time in its          
neighbourhood4 ,captain ,hamley passed1 
last  night1 the encampment of a party  
of ,californians in our rear4 ,he landed
  from a vessel at ,santa ,barbara1 and 
from thence followed us to this  place  
by land4 ,we encamped this afternoon at 
a rancho1 situated on the  edge of a    
fertile and finely watered plain of     
considerable extent1  where we found    
corn1 wheat1 and frijoles in great      
abundance4 ,the rancho  was owned and   
occupied by an aged ,californian1 of    
commanding and  respectable appearance2 
,i could not but feel compassion for the
  venerable old man1 whose sons were now
 all absent and engaged in the  war1    
while he1 at home and unsupported1 was  
suffering the unavoidable               
inconveniences and calamities resulting 
from an army being quartered  upon him4 
,as we march south there appears to be a
 larger supply of wheat1 maize1  beans1 
and barley in the granaries of the      
ranchos4 ,more attention is  evidently  

given to the cultivation of the soil    
here than farther north1  although      
neither the soil nor climate is so well 
adapted to the raising  of crops4 ,the  
,californian spies have shown themselves
 at various times  to-day1 on the       
summits of the hills on our right4      
,distance #ab miles4    ,january        
#aj4--;,crossing the plain1 we encamped1
 about two o'clock ,p4,m41  in the mouth
 of a canada1 through which we ascend   
over a difficult  pass in a range of    
elevated hills between us and the plain 
of ,san  ,fernando1 or ,couenga4 ,some  
forty or fifty mounted ,californians    
exhibited themselves on the summit of   
the pass during the afternoon4  ,they   
were doubtless a portion of the same    
party that we met several  days ago1    
just below ,san ,buenaventura4 ,a large 
number of cattle were  collected in the 
plain and corralled1 to be driven along 
to-morrow for  subsistence4 ,distance   
#aj miles4    ,january #aa4--,the       
battalion this morning was divided into 

two parties2  the main body1 on foot1   
marching over a ridge of hills to the   
right of  the road or trail2 and the    
artillery1 horses and baggage1 with an  
advance-guard and escort1 marching by   
the direct route4 ,we found the  pass   
narrow1 and easily to be defended by    
brave and determined men  against a     
greatly superior force2 but when we had 
mounted the summit of  the ridge there  
was no enemy1 nor the sign of one1 in   
sight4 ,descending  into a canada on the
 other side1 we halted until the main   
body came  up to us1 and then the whole 
force was again reunited1 and the march 
continued4    ,emerging from the hills1 
the advance party to which ,i was       
attached met  two ,californians1        
bareheaded1 riding in great haste4 ,they
 stated that  they were from the mission
 of ,san ,fernando2 that the            
,californian forces  had met the        
,american forces under the command of   
,general ,kearny and  ,commodore        
,stockton1 and had been defeated after  

two days' fighting2 and  that the       
,americans had yesterday marched into   
,los ,angeles4 ,they  requested to be   
conducted immediately to ,colonel       
,fremont1 which request  was complied   
with4 ,a little farther on we met a     
,frenchman1 who stated  that he was the 
bearer of a letter from ,general        
,kearny1 at ,los ,angeles1  to ,colonel 
,fremont4 ,he confirmed the statement we
 had just heard1 and  was permitted to  
pass4 ,continuing our march1 we entered 
the mission of  ,san ,fernando at one   
o'clock1 and in about two hours the main
 body  arrived1 and the whole battalion 
encamped in the mission buildings4      
,the buildings and gardens belonging to 
this mission are in better  condition   
than those of any of these              
establishments ,i have seen4 ,there  are
 two extensive gardens1 surrounded by   
high walls2 and a stroll  through them  
afforded a most delightful contrast from
 the usually  uncultivated landscape we 
have been travelling through for so long

 a  time4 ,here were brought together   
most of the fruits and many of the      
plants of the temperate and tropical    
climates4 ,although not the season  of  
flowers1 still the roses were in bloom4 
,oranges1 lemons1 figs1 and  olives hung
 upon the trees1 and the blood-red tuna1
 or prickly-pear1  looked very tempting4
 ,among the plants ,i noticed the       
,american aloe  7argave ,americana71    
which is otherwise called maguey4 ,from 
this  plant1 when it attains maturity1 a
 saccharine liquor is extracted1  which 
is manufactured into a beverage called  
pulque1 and is much  prized by          
,mexicans4 ,the season of grapes has    
passed1 but there are  extensive        
vineyards at this mission4 ,i drank1    
soon after my arrival1 a  glass of red  
wine manufactured here1 of a good       
quality4    ,the mission of ,san        
,fernando is situated at the head of an 
extensive and  very fertile plain1      
judging from the luxuriance of the grass
 and other  vegetation now springing up4

 ,i noticed in the granary from which   
our  horses were supplied with food many
 thousand bushels of corn4 ,the ear  is 
smaller than that of the corn of the    
,southern ,states4 ,it resembles  the   
maize cultivated in the ,northern       
,states1 the kernel being hard and      
polished4 ,large herds of cattle and    
sheep were grazing upon the plain  in   
sight of the mission4    ,january       
#ab4--,this morning two ,californian    
officers1 accompanied by  ,tortaria     
,pico1 who marched with us from ,san    
,luis ,obispo1 came to the  mission to  
treat for peace4 ,a consultation was    
held and terms were  suggested1 and1 as 
,i understand1 partly agreed upon1 but  
not concluded4  ,the officers left in   
the afternoon4    ,january #ac4--,we    
continued our march1 and encamped near a
 deserted  rancho at the foot of        
,couenga plain4 ,soon after we halted1  
the  ,californian peace-commissioners   
appeared1 and the terms of peace and    
capitulation were finally agreed upon   

and signed by the respective  parties4  
,they were as follows3--      ,,articles
 ,,of ,,capitulation1      ,made and    
entered into at the ,ranch of ,couenga1 
this thirteenth day    of ,january1     
eighteen hundred and forty-seven1       
between ,p4,b4 ,reading1    major2      
,louis ,mc,lane1 junr41 commanding #crd 
,artillery2 ,william ,h4    ,russell1   
ordnance officer--commissioners         
appointed by ,j4,c4 ,fremont1           
,colonel ,united ,states ,army1 and     
,military ,commandant of ,california2   
and ,jos ,antonio ,carillo1 commandant  
esquadron2 ,augustin ,olivera1          
deputado--commissioners appointed by    
,don ,andres ,pico1                     
,commander-in-chief of the ,californian 
forces under the ,mexican flag4         
,article #ast4 ,the ,commissioners on   
the part of the ,californians agree     
that their entire force shall1 on       
presentation of themselves to           
,lieutenant-,colonel ,fremont1 deliver  
up their artillery and public    arms1  

and that they shall return peaceably to 
their homes1    conforming to the laws  
and regulations of the ,united ,states1 
and not    again take up arms during the
 war between the ,united ,states and    
,mexico1 but will assist and aid in     
placing the country in a state of       
peace and tranquillity4      ,art4 #bnd4
 ,the ,commissioners on the part of     
,lieutenant-,colonel    ,fremont agree  
and bind themselves1 on the fulfilment  
of the #ast    ,article by the          
,californians1 that they shall be       
guaranteed    protection of life and    
property1 whether on parole or          
otherwise4      ,article #crd4 ,that    
until a ,treaty of ,peace be made and   
signed between    the ,united ,states of
 ,north ,america and the ,republic of   
,mexico1 no    ,californian or other    
,mexican citizen shall be bound to take 
the oath    of allegiance4      ,article
 #dth4 ,that any ,californian or citizen
 of ,mexico1 desiring1 is    permitted  
by this capitulation to leave the       

country without let or    hinderance4   
,article #eth4 ,that1 in virtue of the  
aforesaid articles1 equal rights    and 
privileges are vouchsafed to every      
citizen of ,california1 as are          
enjoyed by the citizens of the ,united  
,states of ,north ,america4             
,article #fth4 ,all officers1 citizens1 
foreigners or others1 shall    receive  
the protection guaranteed by the #bnd   
,article4      ,article #gth4 ,this     
capitulation is intended to be no bar in
 effecting    such arrangements as may  
in future be in justice required by both
    parties4      ,,additional          
,,article4      ,ciudad de ,los         
,angeles1 ,jan4 #afth1 #ahdg4      ,that
 the paroles of all officers1 citizens  
and others1 of the ,united    ,states1  
and naturalized citizens of ,mexico1 are
 by this foregoing    capitulation      
cancelled1 and every condition of said  
paroles1 from    and after this date1   
are of no further force and effect1 and 
all    prisoners of both parties are    

hereby released4      ,p4,b4 ,,reading1 
,maj4 ,cal'a4 ,battalion4    ,,louis    
,mc,l,a,n,e1 ,com'd4 ,artillery4        
,,wm4 ,h4 ,,russell1 ,ordnance ,officer4
    ,,jose ,,antonio ,,carillo1 ,comd't4
 of ,squadron4    ,,augustin ,,olivera1 
,deputado4      ,approved1      ,j4,c4  
,,fremont1 ,lieut4-,col4 ,u4,s4 ,army1  
and ,military ,commandant of            
,california4      ,,andres ,,pico1      
,commandant of ,squadron and ,chief of  
the ,national ,forces    of ,california4
    ,the next morning a brass howitzer  
was brought into camp1 and delivered4   
,what other arms were given up ,i cannot
 say1 for ,i saw none4 ,nor can ,i      
speak as to the number of ,californians 
who were in the field under the  command
 of ,andres ,pico when the articles of  
capitulation were signed1  for they were
 never in sight of us after we reached  
,san ,fernando4  ,distance #ab miles4   
,january #ad4--;,it commenced raining   
heavily this morning4 ,crossing a  ridge
 of hills1 we entered the magnificent   

undulating plain surrounding  the city  
of ,angels1 now verdant with a carpet of
 fresh vegetation4  ,among other plants 
,i noticed the mustard1 and an immense  
quantity of  the common pepper-grass of 
our gardens4 ,we passed several warm    
springs  which throw up large quantities
 of bitumen or mineral tar4 ,urging our 
jaded animals through the mud and water1
 which in places was very deep1  we     
reached the town about #c o'clock4    ,a
 more miserably clad1 wretchedly        
provided1 and unprepossessing  military 
host1 probably never entered a civilized
 city4 ,in all1 except  our order1      
deportment1 and arms1 we might have been
 mistaken for a  procession of          
tatterdemalions1 or a tribe of ,nomades 
from ,tartary4  ,there were not many of 
us so fortunate as to have in our       
possession an  entire outside garment2  
and several were without hats or shoes1 
or a  complete covering to their bodies4
 ,but that we had at last reached the   
terminus of a long and laborious march1 

attended with hardships1  exposure1 and 
privation rarely suffered1 was a matter 
of such heartfelt  congratulation1 that 
these comparatively trifling            
inconveniences were  not thought of4    
,men never1 probably1 in the entire     
history of military  transactions1 bore 
these privations with more fortitude or 
uttered  fewer complaints4    ,we had   
now arrived at the abode of the         
celestials1 if the  interpretation of   
the name of the place could be          
considered as  indicative of the        
character of its population1 and        
drenched with rain  and plastered with  
mud1 we entered the ,city of the        
,angels1 and  marched through its       
principal street to our temporary       
quarters4 ,we  found the town1 as we    
expected1 in the possession of the      
,united ,states  naval and military     
forces under the command of ,commodore  
,stockton and  ,general ,kearny1 who1   
after two engagements with six hundred  
mounted  ,californians on the #hth and  

#ith1 had marched into the city on the  
#ajth4  ,the town was almost entirely   
deserted by its inhabitants1 and most of
  the houses1 except those belonging to 
foreigners1 or occupied as  quarters for
 the troops1 were closed4 ,i met here   
many of the naval  officers whose       
agreeable acquaintance ,i had made at   
,san ,francisco4  ,among others were    
,lieutenants ,thompson1 ,hunter1 ,gray  
and ,rhenshaw1 and  ,captain ,zeilin of 
the marines1 all of whom had marched    
from ,san ,diego4  ,distance #ab miles4 
,,chapter ,,xii4      ,city of ,angels  
,gardens    ,vineyards    ,produce of   
the vine in ,california    ,general     
products of the country    ,reputed     
personal charms of the females of ,los  
,angeles    ,san ,diego    ,gold and    
quicksilver mines    ,lower ,california 
,bituminous springs    ,wines    ,a     
,kentuckian among the angels            
,missions of ,san ,gabriel and ,san     
,luis ,rey    ,gen4 ,kearny and ,com4   
,stockton leave for ,san ,diego    ,col4

 ,fremont appointed ,governor of        
,california by ,com4 ,stockton    ,com4 
,shubrick's arrival    ,insurrection in 
the northern part of ,california        
suppressed    ,arrival of ,col4 ,cooke  
at ,san ,diego4      ,la ,ciudad de los 
,angeles is the largest town in         
,california1 containing  between fifteen
 hundred and two thousand inhabitants4  
,its streets are  laid out without any  
regard to regularity4 ,the buildings are
 generally  constructed of adobes one   
and two stories high1 with flat roofs4  
,the  public buildings are a church1    
quartel1 and government house4 ,some of 
the dwelling-houses are frames1 and     
large4 ,few of them1 interiorly or      
exteriorly1 have any pretensions to     
architectural taste1 finish1 or         
convenience of plan and arrangement4    
,the town is situated about #bj miles   
from the ocean1 in a extensive          
undulating plain1 bounded on the north  
by a ridge of elevated hills1 on the    
east by high mountains whose  summits   

are now covered with snow1 on the west  
by the ocean1 and  stretching to the    
south and the south-east as far as the  
eye can reach4  ,the ,rio ,st4 ,gabriel 
flows near the town4 ,this stream is    
skirted with  numerous vineyards and    
gardens1 inclosed by willow-hedges4 ,the
 gardens  produce a great variety of    
tropical fruits and plants4 ,the yield  
of the  vineyards is very abundant2 and 
a large quantity of wines of a good     
quality and flavour1 and aguardinte1 are
 manufactured here4 ,some of  the       
vineyards1 ,i understand1 contain as    
many as twenty thousand vines4  ,the    
produce of the vine in ,california will1
 undoubtedly1 in a short  time form an  
important item1 in its exports and      
commerce4 ,the soil and  climate1       
especially of the southern portion of   
the country1 appear to  be peculiarly   
adapted to the culture of the grape4    
,we found in ,los ,angeles an abundance 
of maize1 wheat1 and frijoles1  showing 
that the surrounding country is highly  

productive of these  important articles 
of subsistence4 ,there are no mills1    
however1 in this  vicinity1 the         
universal practice of ,californian      
families being to grind  their corn by  
hand2 and consequently flour and bread  
are very scarce1  and not to be obtained
 in any considerable quantities4 ,the   
only garden  vegetables which ,i saw    
while here were onions1 potatoes1 and   
chile  colorado1 or red pepper1 which   
enters very largely into the cuisine  of
 the country4 ,i do not doubt1 however1 
that every description of  garden       
vegetables can be produced here1 in     
perfection and abundance4    ,while ,i  
remained at ,los ,angeles1 ,i boarded   
with two or three other  officers at the
 house of a ,mexican ,californian1 the  
late alcalde of the  town1 whose        
political functions had ceased4 ,he was 
a thin1 delicate1  amiable1 and very    
polite gentleman1 treating us with much 
courtesy1 for  which we paid him1 when  
his bill was presented1 a very liberal  

compensation4 ,in the morning we were   
served1 on a common deal table1  with a 
cup of coffee and a plate of tortillas4 
,at eleven o'clock1 a  more substantial 
meal was provided1 consisting of stewed 
beef1 seasoned  with chile colorado1 a  
rib of roasted beef1 and a plate of     
frijoles  with tortillas1 and a bottle  
of native wine4 ,our supper was a second
  edition of the eleven o'clock         
entertainment4    ,the town being       
abandoned by most of its population1 and
 especially by  the better class of the 
female portion of it1 those who         
remained1 which  ,i saw1 could not1     
without injustice1 be considered as fair
 specimens of  the angels1 which are    
reputed here to inhabit4 ,i did not     
happen to  see one beautiful or even    
comely-looking woman in the place2 but1 
as  the fair descendants of ,eve at ,los
 ,angeles have an exalted reputation    
for personal charms1 doubtless the      
reason of the invisibility of the       
examples of feminine attractions1 so    

far-famed and so much looked for  by the
 sojourner1 is to be ascribed to their  
unavoidable absence1 on  account of the 
dangers and casualties of war4 ,at this 
time1 of course1  everything in regard  
to society1 as it usually exists here1  
is in a  state of confusion and         
disorganization1 and no correct         
conclusions in  reference to it can be  
drawn from observation under such       
circumstances4    ,the bay of ,san      
,pedro1 about twenty-five miles south of
 ,los ,angeles1 is  the port of the     
town4 ,the bay affords a good anchorage 
for vessels of  any size2 but it is not 
a safe harbour at all times1 as ,i have 
been  informed by experienced nautical  
men on this coast4 ,san ,gabriel ,river 
empties into the bay4 ,the mission of   
,san ,gabriel is about twelve miles     
east of ,los ,angeles4 ,it is           
represented as an extensive             
establishment of  this kind1 the lands  
surrounding and belonging to it being   
highly  fertile4 ,the mission of ,san   

,luis ,rey is situated to the south1    
about  midway between ,los ,angeles and 
,san ,diego4 ,this mission1 according to
  the descriptions which ,i have        
received of it1 is more substantial and 
tasteful in its construction than any   
other in the country2 and the  gardens  
and grounds belonging to it are now in a
 high state of  cultivation4    ,san    
,diego is the most southern town in     
,upper ,california4 ,it is situated  on 
the ,bay of ,san ,diego1 in latitude #cc
 north4 ,the country back of it  is     
described by those who have travelled   
through it as sandy and arid1  and      
incapable of supporting any considerable
 population4 ,there are1  however1 it is
 reported on authority regarded as      
reliable1 rich mines  of quicksilver1   
copper1 gold1 and coal1 in the          
neighbourhood1 which1 if  such be the   
fact1 will before long render the place 
one of considerable  importance4 ,the   
harbour1 next to that of ,san           
,francisco1 is the best on  the ,pacific

 coast of ,north ,america1 between the  
,straits of ,fuca and  ,acapulco4       
,for the following interesting account  
of ,lower ,california ,i am indebted  to
 ,rodman ,m4 ,price1 ,esq41 purser of   
the ,u4,s4 sloop-of-war ,cyane1 who  has
 been connected with most of the        
important events which have  recently   
taken place in ,upper and ,lower        
,california1 and whose  observations and
 opinions are valuable and reliable4 ,it
 will be seen  that the observations of 
,mr4 ,price differ materially from the  
generally  received opinions in         
reference to ,lower ,california4        
,burlington1 ,n4,j41 ,june #g1 #ahdh4   
,dear ,sir1--,it affords me pleasure to 
give you all the information ,i  have   
about ,lower ,california1 derived from  
personal observation at  several of its 
ports that ,i have visited1 in the      
,u4,s4 ship ,cyane1 in  #ahdf-dg4       
,cape ,st4 ,lucas1 the southern         
extremity of the peninsula of ,lower    
,california1 is in lat4 #bb #de' ,n41   

has a bay that affords a good  harbour  
and anchorage1 perfectly safe nine      
months in the year2 but it  is open to  
the eastward1 and the hurricanes which  
sometimes occur  during ,july1 ,august1 
and ,september1 blow the strongest from 
the  southeast1 so that vessels will not
 venture in the bay during the          
hurricane season4 ,i have landed twice  
at the ,cape in a small boat1 and  ,i   
think a breakwater can be built1 at     
small cost1 so as to make a safe        
harbour at all seasons4 ,stone can be   
obtained with great ease from  three    
cones of rocks rising from the sea1 and 
forming the extreme  southerly point of 
the ,cape1 called the ,frayles4 ,looking
 to the future  trade and commerce of   
the ,pacific ,ocean1 this great headland
 must  become a most important point as 
a dpt for coal and merchandise1 and  a  
most convenient location for vessels    
trading on that coast to get  their     
supplies4 ,mr4 ,ritchie1 now residing   
there1 supplies a large  number of      

whale-ships that cruise off the ,cape1  
annually1 with fresh  provisions1       
fruits1 and water4 ,the supplies are    
drawn from the valley  of ,san ,jos     
twenty miles north of the ,cape1 as the 
land in its  immediate vicinity is      
mountainous and sterile2 but the valley 
of ,san  ,jos is extensive and well     
cultivated1 producing the greatest      
variety  of vegetables and fruits4 ,the 
sweet and ,irish potato1 tomato1        
cabbage1  lettuce1 beans1 peas1 beets1  
and carrots are the vegetables2 oranges1
  lemons1 bananas1 plantains1 figs1     
dates1 grapes1 pomegranates1 and  olives
 are its fruits4 ,good beef and mutton  
are cheap4 ,a large amount  of          
sugar-cane is grown1 from which is made 
panoche1 a favourite sugar  with the    
natives2 it is the syrup from the cane  
boiled down1 and run  into cakes of a   
pound weight1 and in appearance is like 
our  maple-sugar4    ,panoche1 cheese1  
olives1 raisins1 dried figs1 and dates1 
put up in  ceroons of hide1 with the    

great staples of the                    
,californians--hides  and tallow--make  
the export of ,san ,jos1 which is       
carried to ,san ,blas  and ,mazatlan1 on
 the opposite coast4 ,this commerce the 
presence of the  ,cyane interrupted1    
finding and capturing in the ,bay of ,la
 ,paz1 just  after the receipt of the   
news of war on that coast in ,september1
 #ahdf1  sixteen small craft1 laid up   
during the stormy season1 engaged in    
this  trade4    ,i cannot dismiss the   
valley of ,san ,jos1 from which the crew
 of the  ,cyane have drawn so many      
luxuries1 without alluding to the       
never-failing stream of excellent water 
that runs through it 7to which  it owes 
its productiveness7 and empties into the
 ,gulf here1 and is  easily obtained for
 shipping when the surf is low4 ,it is  
now frequented  by some of our whale    
ships1 and ,european vessels bound to   
,mazatlan with  cargoes usually stop    
here to get instructions from their     
consignees  before appearing off the    

port2 but vessels do not anchor during  
the  three hurricane months4 ,the view  
from seaward1 up this valley1 is        
beautiful indeed1 being surrounded by   
high barren mountains1 which is  the    
general appearance of the whole         
peninsula1 and gives the impression     
that the whole country is without soil1 
and unproductive4 ,when your eye  gets a
 view of this beautiful1 fertile1       
cultivated1 rich1 green valley1         
producing all the fruits and vegetables 
of the earth1 ,lower ,california  stock 
rises4 ,to one that has been at sea for 
months1 on salt grub1 the  sight of this
 bright spot of cultivated acres1 with  
the turkeys1 ducks1  chickens1 eggs1    
vegetables1 and fruit1 makes him believe
 the country an  ,eldorado4 ,following  
up the coast on the ,gulf side1 after   
passing ,cape  ,polmo1 good anchorage is
 found between the peninsula and the    
island of  ,cerralbo4 ,immediately to   
the north of this island is the entrance
 to  the great and beautiful bay of ,la 

,paz4 ,it has two entrances1 one to the 
north and one to the south of the island
 of ,espiritu ,santo4 ,the  northern one
 is the boldest and safest for all craft
 drawing over  twelve feet4 ,the town of
 ,la ,paz is at the bottom or south side
 of the  bay1 about twenty miles from   
the mouth4 ,the bay is a large and      
beautiful sheet of water4 ,the harbour  
of ,pichelinque1 of perfect  mill-pond  
stillness1 is formed inside of this bay4
 ,the ,cyane lay at  this quiet         
anchorage several days4                 
,pearl-fishing is the chief employment  
of the inhabitants about the  bay1 and  
the pearls are said to be of superior   
quality4 ,i was shown a  necklace1      
valued at two thousand dollars1 taken in
 this water4 ,they are  all found by    
diving4 ,the ,yake ,indians are the best
 divers1 going down  in eight-fathom    
water4 ,the pearl shells are sent to    
,china1 and are  worth1 at ,la ,paz1 one
 dollar and a half the arroba1 or       
twenty-five  pounds4 ,why it is a       

submarine diving apparatus has not been 
employed in  this fishery1 with all its 
advantages over ,indian diving1 ,i      
cannot say4  ,yankee enterprise has not 
yet reached this new world4 ,i cannot   
say this  either1 as a countryman of    
ours1 ,mr4 ,davis1 living at ,loretta1  
has been  a most successful             
pearl-fisher1 employing more ,indians   
than any one  else engaged in the       
business4 ,i am sorry to add that he has
 suffered  greatly by the war4 ,the     
country about ,la ,paz is a good grazing
 country1  but very dry4 ,the mountains 
in the vicinity are said to be very rich
 in  minerals4 ,some silver mines near  
,san ,antonio1 about forty miles south1 
are worked1 and produce well4 ,la ,paz  
may export one hundred thousand  dollars
 a-year of platapina4 ,gold-dust and    
virgin gold are brought to  ,la ,paz4   
,the copper and lead mines are numerous 
and rich4 ,to the north  of ,la ,paz are
 numerous safe and good harbours4       
,escondida1 ,loretta1 and  ,muleje are  

all good harbours1 formed by the islands
 in front of the  main land4    ,the    
island of ,carmen1 lying in front of    
,loretta1 has a large salt  lake1 which 
has a solid salt surface of several feet
 thickness4 ,the  salt is of good       
quality1 is cut out like ice1 and it    
could supply the  world4 ,it has        
heretofore been a monopoly to the       
governor of ,lower  ,california1 who    
employed convicts to get out the salt   
and put it on the  beach ready for      
shipping4 ,it is carried about a quarter
 of a mile1 and  is sent to ,mazatlan   
and ,san ,blas4 ,a large quantity of    
salt is used in  producing silver4 ,to  
the north of ,muleje1 which is nearly   
opposite  ,guymas1 the gulf is so much  
narrower that it is a harbour itself4   
,no  accurate survey has ever been made 
of it--indeed1 all the peninsula1 as    
well as the coast of ,upper ,california1
 is laid down wrong on the  charts1     
being about twelve miles too far        
easterly4 ,the ,english  ,government now

 have two naval ships engaged in        
surveying the ,gulf of  ,california4    
,on the ,pacific coast of the peninsula 
there is the great ,bay of  ,magdalena1 
which has fine harbours1 but no water1  
provisions1 or  inhabitants4 ,its shores
 are high barren mountains1 said to     
possess  great mineral wealth4 ,a fleet 
of whale-ships have been there during   
the  winter months of the last two      
years1 for a new species of whale that  
are found there1 represented as rather a
 small whale1 producing forty  or fifty 
barrels of oil2 and1 what is most       
singular1 ,i was assured1 by  most      
respectable whaling captains1 that the  
oil is a good paint-oil 7an  entire new 
quality for fish-oil74 ,geographically  
and commercially1  ,lower ,california   
must become very valuable4 ,it will be a
 constant  source of regret to this     
country1 that it is not included in the 
treaty  of peace just made with ,mexico4
 ,we have held and governed it during   
the  war1 and the boundary of ,upper    

,california cuts the head of the ,gulf  
of  ,california1 so that ,lower         
,california is left entirely            
disconnected with  the ,mexican         
territory4    ,cape ,st4 ,lucas is the  
great headland of the ,pacific ,ocean1  
and is  destined to be the ,gibraltar   
and entrepot of that coast1 or perhaps  
,la  ,paz may be preferred1 on account  
of its superior harbour4 ,as a          
possession to any foreign power1 ,i     
think ,lower ,california more valuable  
than the group of the ,sandwich         
,islands4 ,it has as many arable acres  
as  that group of islands1 with rich    
mines1 pearl-fishing1 fine bays and     
harbours1 with equal health1 and all    
their productions4 ,as a country1  it is
 dry1 mountainous1 and sterile1 yet     
possessing many fine valleys  like ,san 
,jos1 as the old mission establishments 
indicate4 ,i have heard  ,todas ,santos1
 ,commondee1 ,santa ,guadalupe1 and     
others1 spoken of as  being more        
extensive1 and as productive as ,san    

,jos4    ,i am1 most faithfully and     
truly1 yours1    ,,rodman ,m4 ,,price4  
,in the vicinity of ,los ,angeles there 
are a number of warm springs which      
throw out and deposit large quantities  
of bitumen or mineral tar4 ,this        
substance1 when it cools1 becomes hard  
and brittle like resin4 ,around  some of
 these springs many acres of ground are 
covered with this  deposit to the depth 
of several feet4 ,it is a principal     
material in the  roofing of houses4     
,when thrown upon the fire1 it ignites  
immediately1  emitting a smoke like that
 from turpentine1 and an odour like that
 from  bituminous coal4 ,this mineral1  
so abundant in ,california1 may one day 
become a valuable article of commerce4  
,there are no reliable statistics in    
,california4 ,the traveller is  obliged 
to form his estimate of matters and     
things chiefly from his own             
observation4 ,you can place but little  
reliance upon information derived  from 
the population1 even when they choose to

 answer your questions2  and most       
generally the response to your inquiries
 is--,quien sabe8  7who knows87 ,no     
,californian troubles his brains about  
these matters4  ,the quantity of wines  
and aguardinte produced by the vineyards
 and  distilleries1 at and near ,los    
,angeles1 must be considerable--basing  
my  estimate upon the statement of ,mr4 
,wolfskill1 an ,american gentleman      
residing here1 and whose house and      
vineyard ,i visited4 ,mr4 ,w4's         
vineyard is young1 and covers about     
forty acres of ground1 the number  of   
vines being #d1jjj or #e1jjj4 ,from the 
produce of these1 he told me1  that last
 year he made #ahj casks of wine1 and   
the same quantity of  aguardinte4 ,a    
cask here is sixteen gallons4 ,when the 
vines mature1  their produce will be    
greatly increased4 ,mr4 ,w4's vineyard  
is doubtless  a model of its kind4 ,it  
was a delightful recreation to stroll   
through  it1 and among the tropical     
fruit-trees bordering its walks4 ,his   

house1  too1 exhibited an air of        
cleanliness and comfort1 and a          
convenience of  arrangement not often   
met with in this country4 ,he set out   
for our  refreshment three or four      
specimens of his wines1 some of which   
would  compare favourably with the best 
,french and ,madeira wines4 ,the        
aguardinte and peach-brandy1 which ,i   
tasted1 of his manufacture1  being      
mellowed by age1 were of an excellent   
flavour4 ,the quantity of  wine and     
aguardinte produced in ,california1 ,i  
would suppose1  amounted to #ajj1jjj    
casks of sixteen gallons1 or #a1fjj1jjj 
gallons4  ,this quantity by culture can 
be increased indefinitely4    ,it was   
not possible to obtain at ,los ,angeles 
a piece of woollen cloth  sufficiently  
large for a pair of pantaloons1 or a    
pair of shoes1 which  would last a week4
 ,i succeeded1 after searching through  
all the shops  of the town1 in procuring
 some black cotton velvet1 for four     
yards of  which ,i paid the sum of #ab  

dollars4 ,in the ,united ,states the    
same  article would probably have cost  
#a4ej dollar4 ,for four dollars more ,i 
succeeded in getting the pantaloons made
 up by an ,american tailor1 who  came   
into the country with ,general ,kearny's
 forces4 ,a ,rocky ,mountain  trapper   
and trader 7,mr4 ,goodyear71 who has    
established himself near the  ,salt     
,lake since ,i passed there last year1  
fortunately arrived at ,los  ,angeles1  
bringing with him a quantity of dressed 
deer and elk skins1  which were         
purchased for clothing for the nearly   
naked soldiers4    ,among the houses ,i 
visited while here1 was that of ,mr4    
,pryor1 an  ,american1 and a native of  
,louisville1 ,ky4 ,he has been a        
resident of the  country between twenty 
and thirty years1 but his ,kentucky     
manners1  frankness1 and hospitality    
still adhere to him4    ,i remained at  
,los ,angeles from the #adth to the     
#bith of ,january4 ,during  this time1  
with the exception of three days1 the   

weather and  temperature were pleasant4 
,it rained one day1 and during two days 
the  winds blew strong and cold from the
 north-west4 ,the nights are cool1  but 
fires are not requisite to comfort4 ,the
 snow-clad mountains1 about  twenty-five
 or thirty miles to the east of us1     
contrast singularly with  the brilliant 
fresh verdure of the plain4    ,on the  
#ahth of ,january ,general ,kearny1 with
 the dragoons1 left for ,san  ,diego4   
,there was understood to be a difference
 between ,general ,kearny  and          
,commodore ,stockton1 and ,general      
,kearny and ,colonel ,fremont1 in       
regard to their respective powers and   
duties2 which1 as the whole  subject has
 subsequently undergone a thorough      
investigation1 and the  result made     
public1 it is unnecessary for me to     
allude to more  particularly4 ,i did not
 converse with ,general ,kearny while he
 was at  ,los ,angeles1 and consequently
 possessed no other knowledge of his    
views  and intentions1 or of the powers 

with which he had been invested by the  
,president1 than what ,i derived from   
report4    ,on the #aith1 ,commodore    
,stockton and suite1 with a small       
escort1 left  for ,san ,diego4 ,soon    
after his departure the battalion was   
paraded1 and  the appointment of        
,colonel ,fremont as governor of        
,california1 and  ,colonel ,w4,h4       
,russell1 as secretary of state1 by     
,commodore ,stockton1 was  read to them 
by ,colonel ,russell4 ,it was announced1
 also1 that1 although  ,colonel ,fremont
 had accepted the office of chief civil 
magistrate of  ,california1 he would    
still retain his military office1 and   
command the  battalion as heretofore4   
,commodore ,shubrick1 however1 arrived  
at ,monterey on the #bcrd of  ,january1 
in the ,u4,s4 ship ,independence1 and1  
ranking above ,commodore  ,stockton1    
assumed the chief command1 as appears by
 the date of a  general order published 
at ,monterey1 and written on board the  
,united  ,states ship ,independence1 on 

,february #ast1 thanking the volunteers 
for  their services1 and announcing the 
restoration of order4 ,for ,i should    
state that an insurrection1 headed by   
,don ,francisco ,sanchez1 had broken    
out in the upper portion of ,california 
some time towards the last of           
,december1 which had been put down by a 
detachment of marines and  volunteers4  
,the insurgents had committed some      
outrages1 and among other  acts had     
taken prisoner ,lieutenant ,w4,a4       
,bartlett1 acting ,alcalde of ,san      
,francisco1 with some other ,americans4 
,an account of the suppression of  this 
affair ,i find in the ,californian      
newspaper of ,february #fth1 #ahdg1     
from which it appears1 that a party of  
one hundred and one men1  commanded by  
,captain ,ward ,marston1 of the ,united 
,states marines1  marched from ,san     
,francisco on the #bith ,december in    
search of the enemy1  whom they         
discovered on the #bnd of ,january1     
about one hundred in  number1 on the    

plains of ,santa ,clara1 under the      
command of ,francisco  ,sanchez4 ,an    
attack was immediately ordered4 ,the    
enemy was forced to  retire1 which they 
were able to do in safety1 after some   
resistance1 in  consequence of their    
superior horses4 ,the affair lasted     
about an hour1  during which time we had
 one marine slightly wounded in the     
head1 one  volunteer of ,captain        
,weber's command in the leg2 and the    
enemy had one  horse killed1 and some of
 their forces supposed to be killed or  
wounded4 ,in the evening the enemy sent 
in a flag of truce1 with a              
communication1 requesting an interview  
with the commanding officer of  the     
expedition the next day1 which was      
granted1 when an armistice was  entered 
into1 preparatory to a settlement of the
 difficulties4 ,on the  #crd1 the       
expedition was reinforced by the mounted
 ,monterey volunteers1  fifty-five men1 
under the command of ,captain ,w4,a4,t4 
,maddox1 and on the  #gth1 by the       

arrival of ,lieutenant ,grayson with    
fifteen men1 attached to  ,captain      
,maddox's company4 ,on the #hth a treaty
 was concluded1 by which  the enemy     
surrendered ,lieutenant ,bartlett1 and  
the other prisoners1 as  well as all    
their arms1 including one small         
field-piece1 their  ammunition and      
accoutrements1 and were permitted to    
return peaceably to  their homes1 and   
the expedition to their respective      
posts4    ,a list of the expedition     
which marched from ,san ,francisco is   
given as  follows3--,captain ,ward      
,marston1 commandant2 ,assistant-surgeon
 ,j4 ,duval1  aide-de-camp4 ,a          
detachment of ,united ,states marines1  
under command of  ,lieutenant ,tansil1  
thirty-four men2 artillery1 consisting  
of one  field-piece1 under the charge of
 ,master ,william ,f4 ,de ,iongh1       
assisted  by ,mid4 ,john ,m4 ,kell1 ten 
men2 ,interpreter ,john ,pray2 mounted  
company  of ,san ,jos volunteers1 under 
command of ,captain ,c4,m4 ,weber1      

,lieutenant  ,john ,murphy1 and acting  
,lieutenant ,john ,reed1 thirty-three   
men2 mounted  company of ,yerba ,buena  
volunteers1 under command of ,captain   
,william ,m4  ,smith1 ,lieutenant ,john 
,rose1 with a small detachment under    
,captain ,j4  ,martin1 twelve men4      
,thus ended the insurrections1 if       
resistance against invasion can         
properly be so called1 in ,upper        
,california4    ,on the #bjth ,january1 
the force of sailors and marines which  
had marched  with ,commodore ,stockton  
and ,general ,kearny left ,los ,angeles1
 to embark  at ,san ,pedro for ,san     
,diego4 ,on the #bast a national salute 
was fired by  the artillery company     
belonging to the battalion1 in honour of
 ,governor  ,fremont4 ,on the #bbnd1    
letters were received from ,san ,diego1 
stating  that ,colonel ,cooke1 who      
followed ,general ,kearny from ,santa ,f
 with a  force of four hundred ,mormon  
volunteers1 had reached the             
neighbourhood  of that place4 ,having   

applied for my discharge from the       
battalion as  soon as we reached ,los   
,angeles1 ,i received it on the #bith1  
on which  day1 in company with ,captain 
,hastings1 ,i set out on my return to   
,san  ,francisco1 designing to leave    
that place on the first favourable      
opportunity for the ,united ,states4    
,,chapter ,,xiii4      ,leave ,los      
,angeles for ,san ,francisco    ,don    
,andres ,pico    ,a ,californian        
returning from the wars    ,domestic    
life at a rancho    ,women in favour of 
peace    ,hospitable treatment          
,fandango    ,singular custom    ,arrive
 at ,santa ,barbara    ,lost in a fog   
,valley of the ,salinas    ,californians
 wanting ,yankee wives    ,high waters  
,arrive at ,san ,francisco4      ,we    
left ,los ,angeles late in the afternoon
 of the #bith of ,january1 with  two    
,indian vaqueros1 on miserable          
broken-down horses 7the best we could   
obtain71 and encamped at the deserted   
rancho at the foot of ,couenga  plain1  

where the treaty of peace had been      
concluded4 ,after we had been  here some
 time1 two ,indians came to the house1  
who had been sent by the  proprietor of 
the rancho to herd the cattle4 ,having  
nothing to eat with  us1 a tempting     
offer prevailed upon the ,indians to    
milk one of the  cows2 and we made our  
supper and our breakfast next morning on
 milk4  ,both of our ,indian vaqueros   
deserted in the night1 carrying with    
them  sundry articles of clothing placed
 in their charge4 ,a few days have  made
 a great change in the appearance of the
 country4 ,the fresh grass  is now      
several inches in height1 and many      
flowers are in bloom4 ,the sky  is      
bright1 and the temperature is          
delightful4    ,on the #cjth of         
,january1 leaving the mission of ,san   
,fernando on our  right1 at a distance  
of eight or ten miles1 we followed the  
usually  travelled trail next to the    
hills1 on the western side of the plain4
 ,as  we were passing near a rancho1 a  

well-dressed ,californian rode out to   
us1 and1 after examining the horses of  
our miserable caballada1  politely      
claimed one of them as his property4 ,he
 was told that the  horse was drawn from
 the public caballada1 at ,los ,angeles1
 and could  not be given up4 ,this      
seemed to satisfy him4 ,after some      
further  conversation1 he informed us1  
that he was ,don ,andres ,pico1 the late
  leader and general of the             
,californians4 ,the expression of his   
countenance is intelligent and          
prepossessing1 and his address and      
manners courteous and pleasing4 ,shaking
 hands1 and bidding us a very  earnest  
adios1 he put spurs to his horse and    
galloped away4    ,we were soon after   
overtaken by a young ,californian1 who  
appeared at  first rather doubtful      
whether or not he should make our       
acquaintance4  ,the ice being broken1   
however1 he became very loquacious and  
communicative4 ,he stated that he was   
returning to his home near ,santa       

,barbara1 from the wars1 in which he had
 been engaged against his will4  ,the   
language that he used was1 that he1 with
 many others of his  acquaintances1 were
 forced to take up arms by the leading  
men of the  country4 ,he was in the two 
battles of the #hth and #ith of         
,january1 below  ,los ,angeles2 and he  
desired never to be in any more battles4
 ,he was  heartily rejoiced that there  
was peace1 and hoped that there would   
never be any more wars4 ,he travelled   
along with us until afternoon1  when he 
fell behind1 and we did not see him     
again until the next day4    ,after     
passing two or three deserted houses1 we
 reached an inhabited  rancho1 situated 
at the extremity of a valley1 and near a
 narrow gorge  in the hills1 about four 
o'clock1 and1 our jaded animals         
performing  duty with reluctance1 we    
determined to halt for the night1 if the
  prospect of obtaining anything to eat 
7of which we stood in much need7  was   
flattering4 ,riding up to the house1 a  

small adobe1 with one room1  and a shed 
for a kitchen1 the ranchero and the     
ranchera came out  and greeted us with a
 hearty ,buenas tardes1 ,senores1       
paisanos  amigos1 shaking hands1 and    
inviting us at the same time to alight  
and  remain for the night1 which        
invitation we accepted4 ,the            
kind-hearted  ranchera immediately set  
about preparing supper for us4 ,an      
,indian  muchacha was seated at the     
metate 7hand-mill71 which is one of the 
most important articles of the          
,californian culinary apparatus4 ,while 
the muchacha ground1 or rather crushed1 
the wheat between the stones1  the      
ranchera1 with a platter-shaped basket1 
cleansed it of dust1  chaff1 and all    
impure particles1 by tossing the grain  
in the basket4  ,the flour being        
manufactured and sifted through a       
cedazo1 or coarse  sieve1 the labour of 
kneading the dough was performed by the 
muchacha4 ,an iron plate was then placed
 over a rudely-constructed  furnace1 and

 the dough1 being beaten by hand into   
tortillas 7thin  cakes71 was baked upon 
this4 ,what would ,american housewives  
say to such  a system as this8 ,the     
viands being prepared1 they were set out
 upon a  small table1 at which we were  
invited to seat ourselves4 ,the meal    
consisted of tortillas1 stewed jerk     
beef1 with chile seasoning1  milk1 and  
quesadillas1 or cheesecakes1 green and  
tough as leather4  ,however1 our        
appetites were excellent1 and we enjoyed
 the repast with a  high relish4    ,our
 host and hostess were very inquisitive 
in regard to the news from  below1 and  
as to what would be the effects of the  
conquest of the  country by the         
,americans4 ,the man stated that he and 
all his family had  refused to join in  
the late insurrection4 ,we told them    
that all was  peaceable now2 that there 
would be no more wars in ,california2   
that we  were all ,americans1 all       
,californians--hermanos1 hermanas1      
amigos4  ,they expressed their delight  

at this information by numerous         
exclamations4    ,we asked the woman how
 much the dress which she wore1 a       
miserable  calico1 cost her8 ,she       
answered1 ,seis pesos 7six dollars74    
,when we  told her that in a short time1
 under the ,american government1 she    
could  purchase as good a one por un    
peso1 she threw up her hands in         
astonishment1 expressing by her features
 at the same time the most  unbounded   
delight4 ,her entire wardrobe was soon  
brought forth1 and the  price paid for  
every article named4 ,she then inquired 
what would be the  cost of similar      
clothing under the ,american government1
 which we told  her4 ,as we replied1    
exclamation followed upon exclamation1  
expressive  of her surprise and         
pleasure1 and the whole was concluded   
with ,viva  los ,americanos--viva los   
,americanos6 ,i wore a large coarse     
woollen  pea-jacket1 which the man was  
very desirous to obtain1 offering for it
  a fine horse4 ,i declined the trade4  

,in the evening several of the brothers1
 sisters1 and brothers and              
sisters-in-law of the family collected1 
and the guitar and violin1  which were  
suspended from a beam in the house1 were
 taken down1 and we  were entertained by
 a concert of instrumental and vocal    
music4 ,most of  the tunes were such as 
are performed at fandangos4 ,some       
plaintive airs  were played and sung    
with much pathos and expression1 the    
whole party  joining in the choruses4   
,although invited to occupy the only    
room in  the house1 we declined it1 and 
spread our blankets on the outside4     
,the next morning 7,january #cast71 when
 we woke1 the sun was shining  bright   
and warm1 and the birds were singing    
gayly in the grove of  evergreen oaks   
near the house4 ,having made ready to   
resume our journey1  as delicately as   
possible we offered our kind hostess    
compensation for  the trouble we had    
given her1 which she declined1 saying1  
that although  they were not rich1 they 

nevertheless had enough and to spare4   
,we  however insisted1 and she finally  
accepted1 with the condition that we    
would also accept of some of her        
quesadillas and tortillas to carry      
along with us4 ,the ranchero mounted his
 horse and rode with us about  three or 
four miles1 to place us on the right    
trail1 when1 after  inviting us very    
earnestly to call and see him again1 and
 bidding us an  affectionate adios1 he  
galloped away4    ,travelling over a    
hilly country1 and passing the ruins of 
several  deserted ranchos1 the grounds  
surrounding which were strewn with the  
bones of slaughtered cattle1 we reached1
 about five o'clock ,p4,m41 a  cluster  
of houses in the valley of ,santa ,clara
 ,river1 ten miles east of  the mission 
of ,san ,buenaventura4 ,here we stopped 
at the house of a man  named ,sanchez4  
,our arrival was thought to be worthy of
 notice1 and it  was accordingly        
celebrated in the evening by a fandango 
given at one of  the houses1 to which we

 were invited4 ,the company1 to the     
number of  some thirty or forty persons1
 young and old1 were assembled in the   
largest room of the house1 the floor    
being hard clay4 ,the only  furniture   
contained in the room was a bed and some
 benches1 upon which  the company seated
 themselves when not engaged in dancing4
    ,among the senoritas assembled were 
two daughters of an ,american named     
,chapman1 who has been a resident of the
 country for many years4 ,they  were    
fair-skinned1 and might be called       
handsome4 ,an elder and married  sister 
was also present4 ,they called          
themselves ,americans1 although  they   
did not speak our language1 and seemed  
to be more proud of their  ,american    
than their ,spanish blood4    ,a        
singular custom prevails at these       
fandangos4 ,it is this3 during the      
intervals between the waltzes1          
quadrilles1 and other dances1 when the  
company is seated1 a young lady takes   
the floor solus1 and1 after  showing off

 her graces for general observation a   
few minutes1 she  approaches any        
gentleman she may select1 and performs a
 variety of  pirouettes and other       
,terpsichorean movements before him for 
his  especial amusement and admiration1 
until he places on her head his hat  or 
cap1 as the case may be1 when she dances
 away with it4 ,the hat or  cap has     
afterwards to be redeemed by some       
present1 and this usually is  in money4 
,not dancing ourselves1 we were favoured
 with numerous special  exhibitions of  
this kind1 the cost of each of which was
 un peso4 ,with  a long journey before  
us1 and with purses in a nearly         
collapsed  condition1 the drafts upon us
 became so frequent1 that at an early   
hour1 under a plea of fatigue and want  
of rest1 we thought it prudent  to beat 
a retreat1 leaving our fair and partial 
fandangueras to  bestow their favours   
upon others better able to bear them4   
,the motions  of the ,californian       
females of all classes in the dance are 

highly  graceful4 ,the waltz is their   
favourite measure1 and in this they     
appear  to excel as much as the men do  
in horsemanship4 ,during the progress of
  the dance1 the males and females      
improvise doggerel rhymes  complimentary
 of the personal beauties and graces of 
those whom they  admire1 or expressive  
of their love and devotion1 which are   
chanted  with the music of the          
instruments1 and the whole company join 
in the  general chorus at the end of    
each verse4 ,the din of voices is       
sometimes  almost deafening4    ,our    
host accompanied us to our lodgings on  
the opposite side of the  way4 ,beds    
were spread down under the small porch  
outside1 and we laid  our bodies upon   
them1 but not to sleep1 for the noise of
 the fandango  dancers kept us awake    
until broad daylight1 at which time it  
broke up4    ,hiring fresh horses here1 
and a vaquero to drive our tired animals
  after us1 we started about #i o'clock 
in the morning1 and1 passing  through   

,san ,buenaventura1 reached ,santa      
,barbara1 #de miles1 a little  after two
 in the afternoon4 ,we stopped at the   
house of ,mr4 ,sparks1 who  received us 
with genuine hospitality4 ,santa        
,barbara presented a more  lively       
appearance than when we passed here on  
our way down1 most of its  population   
having returned to their homes4         
,procuring fresh but  miserably poor    
horses1 we resumed our journey on the   
afternoon of the  #bnd of ,february1 and
 encamped at the rancho of ,dr4 ,deu1   
situated on the  plain of ,santa        
,barbara1 near the sea shore4 ,the soil 
of this plain is  of the most fertile   
composition4 ,the fresh grass is now six
 or eight  inches high1 and the         
varieties are numerous4 ,many of the    
early flowers  are in bloom4 ,i noticed 
a large wheat field near the house1 and 
its  appearance was such as to promise a
 rich harvest4    ,the rain fell heavily
 on the morning of the #crd1 but        
continuing our  journey we crossed the  

,st4 ,ynes ,mountain1 and1 passing the  
mission by  that name1 reached the      
rancho of ,mr4 ,faxon after dark1 where 
we halted  for the night4 ,around the   
mission of ,st4 ,ynes ,i noticed1 as we 
passed1  immense quantities of cattle   
bones thickly strewn in all directions4 
,acres of ground were white with these  
remains of the immense herds  belonging 
to this mission in the days of its      
prosperity1 slaughtered  for their hides
 and tallow4 ,we met two or three       
elegantly dressed  ,californians to-day1
 who accosted us with much civility and 
apparent  friendliness4    ,mr4 ,faxon  
is an ,englishman by birth1 and has     
resided in ,california  about thirty    
years4 ,he is married to a ,californian 
lady1 and has a  family of interesting  
and beautiful children4 ,a large portion
 of the  land belonging to his rancho is
 admirably adapted to agriculture1 and  
he raises crops of corn and vegetables  
as well as wheat without  irrigation4   
,he informed me that the yield of wheat 

on his rancho was  fully seventy bushels
 to the acre4 ,mr4 ,f4 showed me        
specimens of lead  ore from which he    
moulds his bullets1 taken from an       
inexhaustible mine  in the ,tular       
,valley1 some fifty miles distant from  
this4 ,it is  certainly the richest ore 
that ,i have ever seen1 appearing almost
 like  the pure metal4 ,he also showed  
me a caustic alkali1 produced by burning
  a plant or shrub which grows in great 
abundance in the ,tular ,valley4  ,this 
substance is used by him in the         
manufacture of soap4    ,about noon on  
the #dth1 we halted at the rancho of    
,captain ,dana1 where  we procured fresh
 horses1 leaving our wretchedly lean and
 tired  animals1 and1 proceeding on1    
stopped for the night at the rancho of  
,mr4  ,branch1 an intelligent ,american1
 originally from the state of ,new      
,york1  who has been settled in the     
country a number of years4 ,his rancho  
is  situated on what is called the      
arroyo grande1 a small stream which     

empties into the ,pacific some two or   
three miles from the house4 ,the  house 
is new1 and constructed after ,american 
models of farm-houses1  with neat and   
comfortable apartments1 chimneys and    
fireplaces4 ,the  arable lands here are 
finely adapted to the culture of maize1 
wheat1  and potatoes4    ,our horses    
straying1 it was twelve o'clock on the  
#eth before we found  them4 ,the rain   
had fallen steadily and heavily all     
night1 and during  the forenoon1 and was
 pouring down when we started4 ,we      
passed through  the mission of ,san     
,luis ,obispo just before sunset1       
intending to halt at  a rancho about    
three miles distant in a canada4 ,but1  
the storm  increasing in strength1 it   
became suddenly so dark in the          
mountain-gorge1 that we could not       
distinguish the trail1 and1 after       
wandering about some time1 vainly       
attempting to find the house1 we were   
compelled to bivouac1 wet to our skins1 
without fire or shelter1 and  the rain  

pouring down in torrents4    ,the next  
morning 7,feb4 #f471 in hunting up our  
loose horses1 we  discovered the house  
about half a mile distant from our camp4
  ,continuing our journey1 we halted    
about nine o'clock at a rancho near  the
 ruins of ,santa ,margarita4 ,a solitary
 ,indian was the only occupant  of the  
house1 and only inhabitant of the place2
 and he could furnish us  with no food4 
,passing two or three other deserted    
ranches1 we reached  the house of a     
,mexican about one o'clock1 where we    
obtained a meal of  fried eggs and      
tortillas1 after having been without    
food thirty  hours4 ,late in the        
afternoon we arrived at the mission of  
,san ,miguel1  now occupied by an       
,englishman named ,reed1 his mestiza    
wife1 and one  child1 with two or three 
,indian vaqueros4 ,crossing the ,salinas
 in the  morning 7,feb4 #g71 we         
continued down its eastern side1 and    
encamped in a  wide bottom under a large
 live oak4 ,a quesadilla was all we had 

to  eat4 ,this was divided1 one-half    
being reserved for breakfast4 ,the fresh
  vegetation has so much changed the    
face of the country on this river  since
 we passed along here in ,december1 that
 ,i scarcely recognise it4  ,the grass  
is six or eight inches high in the      
bottom1 the blades  standing so thick as
 to present a matted appearance1 and the
 hills are  brilliant with              
flowers--pink1 purple1 blue1 and yellow4
    ,on the #hth we continued down the  
eastern bank of the ,salinas1 passing   
through several large and fertile       
bottoms1 and reaching the rancho of     
,san ,lorenzo about twelve o'clock4     
,this rancho1 as we learned from the    
proprietors1 is owned by two bachelor   
brothers1 one of whom told me  that he  
had not been off his lands but once or  
twice for several years4  ,large herds  
of fat cattle and horses were grazing   
upon the luxuriant  grasses of the      
plain1 and there were several extensive 
inclosures sowed  in wheat1 which       

presented all the indications of an     
abundant harvest4  ,but1 with all these 
natural resources surrounding him the   
elder brother  told us that he had      
nothing to eat in his house but fresh   
beef4 ,a  quantity of the choice pieces 
of a fat beef was roasted by an ,indian 
boy1 which we enjoyed with all the      
relish of hungry men4 ,our host1 a      
gentleman of intelligence and           
politeness1 made apology after apology  
for his rude style of living1 a         
principal excuse being that he had no   
wife4 ,he inquired1 with apparent       
earnestness1 if we could not send him   
two pretty accomplished and capable     
,american women1 whom they could  marry2
 and then they would build a fine house1
 have bread1 butter1  cheese1 and all   
the delicacies1 luxuries1 and elegancies
 of life in  abundance4 ,he appeared to 
be well pleased with the conquest of the
  country by the ,americans1 and        
desirous that they should not give it   
up4  ,when we resumed our journey in the

 afternoon1 he rode with us four or     
five miles to show us the way1 and1 on  
taking his leave1 invited us to  return 
again1 when he said he hoped his        
accommodations would be much  improved4 
,riding #ae miles1 we halted at a       
tule-cabin1 where we remained  until two
 o'clock in the morning1 when1 the moon 
shining brightly1 we  mounted our       
horses1 and continued our journey4      
,we reached the ,monterey road just at  
daylight4 ,my intention had been to     
visit ,monterey2 but the ,salinas being 
unfordable1 and there being no  ferry1  
it was not possible to do it without    
swimming the river1 which ,i  did not   
feel inclined to do4 ,monterey is       
situated on the bay by that  name1 about
 #ij miles by water south of ,san       
,francisco4 ,the bay affords a  good    
anchorage and landing in calm weather1  
being exposed only to the  northers1    
which blow violently4 ,the town contains
 about #aejj  inhabitants1 and is       
rapidly increasing in wealth and        

population4  ,arriving at the rancho of 
,don ,joaquin ,gomez1 we found no one   
but a  mestiza servant at home1 and     
could obtain nothing to eat but a       
quesadilla4 ,all the streams1 large and 
small1 are much swollen by  late heavy  
rains1 and the travelling is            
consequently very laborious and         
difficult4 ,resting our horses a short  
time1 we crossed the mountains1  and    
reached the mission of ,san ,juan       
,bautista about noon4    ,at ,san ,juan 
we met with ,messrs4 ,grayson1 ,boggs1  
and a party of  volunteers returning    
from ,monterey to ,san ,francisco1      
having been  discharged since the       
suppression of the rebellion in this    
part of  ,california1 headed by         
,francisco ,sanchez4 ,here we learned1  
for the first  time1 the arrival at     
,monterey of ,commodore ,shubrick in the
 ship  ,independence1 and of the        
,lexington with ,captain ,tomkins's     
company of  artillery1 and freighted    
otherwise with munitions1 stores1 and   

tools  necessary to the erection and    
defence of durable fortifications at    
,monterey and ,san ,francisco4    ,seven
 or eight miles beyond ,san ,juan1 we   
found that the waters of the  arroyo had
 risen so as to inundate a wide valley  
which we were  compelled to cross4      
,after making several ineffectual       
attempts to reach  the opposite side1   
wading through the water1 and sometimes 
falling into  deep holes from which it  
was difficult for either men or horses  
to  extricate themselves1 we encamped   
for the night on a small elevation in   
the valley1 entirely surrounded by      
water4 ,our condition was miserable     
enough4 ,tired1 wet1 and hungry1 we laid
 down for the night on the damp  ground4
    ,the next day 7,feb4 #aj71 about    
eleven o'clock1 we succeeded in finding 
a  ford across the valley and stream1   
and procured dinner at a  soap-factory  
on the opposite side1 belonging to      
,t4,o4 ,larkin1 ,esq4  ,continuing on1  
we encamped at a rancho occupied by an  

,englishman as  mayor domo4 ,he was very
 glad to see us1 and treated us with    
unbounded  hospitality1 furnishing a    
superabundance of beef and frijoles for 
our  consumption4 ,on the #aath1 about  
three ,p4,m41 we arrived at the ,pueblo 
de  ,san ,jos1 and1 finding there a     
launch employed by ,messrs4 ,howard and 
,mellus in collecting hides1 bound for  
,san ,francisco1 we embarked in  her1   
and on the morning of the #acth arrived 
at that place4 ,we found  lying here the
 ,u4,s4 sloop ,warren1 and ,lieutenant  
,radford politely  furnished us with a  
boat to land4 ,in the afternoon the     
,cyane1 ,commander  ,dupont1 with ,gen4 
,kearny on board1 and the store-ship    
,erie1 with ,col4  ,mason on board1     
arrived in the harbour4 ,col4 ,mason is 
from the ,united  ,states direct1 via   
,panama1 and brings late and interesting
  intelligence4    ,the ,cyane and      
,warren have just returned from a cruise
 on the southern  ,pacific coast of     
,mexico4 ,the town of ,guymas had been  

taken by  bombardment4 ,the ,cyane had  
captured1 during her cruize1 fourteen   
prizes1 besides several guns at ,san    
,blas4 ,the boats of the ,warren1  under
 the command of ,lieut4 ,radford1       
performed the gallant feat of  cutting  
out of the harbour of ,mazatlan the     
,mexican schooner ,malek  ,abdel4       
,landing in ,san ,francisco1 ,i found my
 wardrobe1 which ,i had deposited in    
the care of ,capt4 ,leidesdorff1 and the
 first time for nearly five  months     
dressed myself in a civilized costume4  
,having been during that  time almost   
constantly in motion1 and exposed to    
many hardships and  privations1 it was1 
as may be supposed1 no small            
satisfaction to find  once more a place 
where ,i could repose for a short time  
at least4          ,,chapter ,,xiv4     
,progress of the town of ,san ,francisco
    ,capt4 ,dupont    ,gen4 ,kearny     
,the presidio    ,appointed ,alcalde    
,gen4 ,kearny's proclamation    ,arrival
 of ,col4 ,stevenson's regiment         

,horse-thief ,indians    ,administration
 of justice in ,california    ,sale of  
lots in ,san ,francisco4      ,wherever 
the ,anglo-,saxon race plant themselves1
 progress is certain to  be displayed in
 some form or other4 ,such is their     
go-ahead energy1  that things cannot    
stand still where they are1 whatever may
 be the  circumstances surrounding them4
 ,notwithstanding the wars and          
insurrections1 ,i found the town of ,san
 ,francisco1 on my arrival here1        
visibly improved4 ,an ,american         
population had flowed into it2 lots1    
which heretofore have been considered   
almost valueless1 were selling at  high 
prices2 new houses had been built1 and  
were in progress2 new  commercial houses
 had been established2 hotels had been  
opened for the  accommodation of the    
travelling and business public2 and the 
publication of a newspaper had been     
commenced4 ,the little village of  two  
hundred souls1 when ,i arrived here in  
,september last1 is fast  becoming a    

town of importance4 ,ships freighted    
with full cargoes are  entering the     
port1 and landing their merchandise to  
be disposed of at  wholesale and retail 
on shore1 instead of the former mode of 
vending  them afloat in the harbour4    
,there is a prevailing air of activity1 
enterprise1 and energy2 and men1 in view
 of the advantageous position  of the   
town for commerce1 are making large     
calculations upon the  future2          
calculations which ,i believe will be   
fully realized4    ,on the #aeth ,i     
dined on board the sloop-of-war ,cyane1 
with ,commander  ,dupont1 to whom ,i had
 the good fortune to be the bearer from 
home of a  letter of introduction4 ,i   
say good fortune1 because ,i conceive it
 to  be one of the greatest of social   
blessings1 as well as pleasures1 to be  
made acquainted with a truly upright and
 honourable man--one whose  integrity   
never bends to wrongful or pusillanimous
 expediency2--one  who1 armed           
intellectually with the panoply of      

justice1 has courage to  sustain it     
under any and all circumstances2--one   
whose ambition is1 in  a public         
capacity1 to serve his country1 and not 
to serve himself2--one  who waits for   
his country to judge of his acts1 and1  
if worthy1 to  place the laurel wreath  
upon his head1 disdaining a self-wrought
 and  self-assumed coronal4 ,capt4      
,dupont is a native of ,delaware2 and   
that  gallant and patriotic state should
 feel proud of such a son4 ,he is one   
of whom all men1 on sea or on land1 with
 whom his duties as an officer  or      
citizen of our republic brings him in   
contact1 speak well2 and whose  private 
virtues1 as well as professional merits1
 are deserving of the  warmest          
admiration and the highest honours4     
,although ,i have long known ,gen4      
,s4,w4 ,kearny from reputation1 and saw 
him at ,los ,angeles1 ,i was here       
introduced to him for the first time4   
,gen4 ,k4 is a man rising fifty years of
 age4 ,his height is about five  feet   

ten or eleven inches4 ,his figure is all
 that is required by  symmetry4 ,his    
features are regular1 almost ,grecian2  
his eye is blue1  and has an eagle-like 
expression1 when excited by stern or    
angry  emotion2 but1 in ordinary social 
intercourse1 the whole expression of    
his countenance is mild and pleasing1   
and his manners and conversation  are   
unaffected1 urbane1 and conciliatory1   
without the slightest  exhibition of    
vanity or egotism4 ,he appears the cool1
 brave1 and  energetic soldier2 the     
strict disciplinarian1 without tyranny2 
the man1  in short1 determined to       
perform his duty1 in whatever situation 
he may  be placed1 leaving consequences 
to follow in their natural course4      
,these1 my first impressions1 were fully
 confirmed by subsequent  intercourse1  
in situations and under circumstances   
which1 by  experience1 ,i have found an 
unfailing alembic for the trial of      
character--a crucible wherein1 if the   
metal be impure1 the drossy  substances 

are sure to display themselves4 ,it is  
not my province to  extol or pronounce  
judgment upon his acts2 they are a part 
of the  military and civil history of   
our country1 and as such will be        
applauded or condemned1 according to the
 estimate that may be placed  upon them4
 ,but ,i may be allowed to express the  
opinion1 that no man1  placed under the 
same circumstances1 ever aimed to       
perform his duty  with more uprightness 
and more fidelity to the interests and  
honour of  his country1 or who1 to shed 
lustre upon his country1 ever braved    
greater dangers1 or endured more        
hardships and privations1 and all       
without vaunting his performances and   
sacrifices4    ,on the #afth1 in company
 of ,gen4 ,kearny1 ,capt4 ,turner1 and  
,lieuts4  ,warner and ,hallock1 of the  
,u4,s4 ,engineer ,corps1 ,i rode to the 
,presidio  of ,san ,francisco1 and the  
old fortification at the mouth of the   
bay4  ,the presidio is about three miles
 from the town1 and consists of  several

 blocks of adobe buildings1 covered with
 files4 ,the walls of  most of the      
buildings are crumbling for the want of 
care in protecting  them from the annual
 rains2 and without this care they will 
soon become  heaps of mud4 ,the fort is 
erected upon a commanding position1     
about a  mile and a half from the       
entrance to the bay4 ,its walls are     
substantially constructed of burnt      
brick1 and are of sufficient  thickness 
and strength to resist heavy battering4 
,there are nine or ten  embrasures4     
,like everything else in the country    
belonging to the  public1 the fort is   
fast falling into ruins4 ,there has been
 no garrison  here for several years2   
the guns are dismounted1 and half       
decomposed by  long exposure to the     
weather1 and from want of care4 ,some of
 them have  sunk into the ground4    ,on
 the #bjth ,i was waited upon by ,gen4  
,kearny1 and requested to accept  the   
office of alcalde1 or chief magistrate1 
of the district of ,san  ,francisco4    

,there being no opportunity of returning
 to the ,united ,states  immediately1 ,i
 accepted of the proposed appointment1  
and on the #bb;d was  sworn into office1
 my predecessor1 ,lieut4 ,w4,a4         
,bartlett1 of the navy1  being ordered  
to his ship by the commanding officer of
 the squadron4    ,the annual salute in 
celebration of the birthday of the      
immortal and  illustrious founder of our
 republic1 required by law from all the 
ships  of the navy in commission1 in    
whatever part of the world they may be  
at  the time1 strikes us more forcibly  
when in a far-off country1 as being  a  
beautiful and appropriate tribute to the
 unapproachable virtues and  heroism of 
that great benefactor of the human race1
 than when we are  nearer home1 or upon 
our own soil4 ,the ,u4,s4 ships in the  
harbour1 at  twelve o'clock on the      
#bb;d1 each fired a national salute2 and
 the day  being calm and beautiful1 the 
reports bounded from hill to hill1 and  
were echoed and re-echoed until the     

sound died away1 apparently in the      
distant gorges of the ,sierra ,nevada4  
,this was a voice from the soul of      
,,washington1 speaking in majestic and  
thunder-tones to the green and  flowery 
valley1 the gentle hills and lofty      
mountains of ,california1 and           
consecrating them as the future abode of
 millions upon millions of the  sons of 
liberty4 ,the merchant and whale ships  
lying at anchor1 catching  the          
enthusiasm1 joined in the salute2 and   
for a time the harbour and  bay in front
 of the town were enveloped in clouds of
 gunpowder smoke4    ,general ,kearny   
left ,san ,francisco1 in the frigate    
,savannah1 ,captain  ,mervine1 on the   
#bc;d1 for ,monterey1 and soon after his
 arrival at that  place issued the      
following proclamation3--               
,,proclamation ,,to ,,the ,,people ,,of 
,,california4      ,the ,president of   
the ,united ,states having instructed   
the undersigned    to take charge of the
 civil government of ,california1 he    

enters upon    his duties with an ardent
 desire to promote1 as far as he is     
able1    the interests of the country   
and the welfare of its inhabitants4     
,the undersigned has instructions from  
the ,president to respect and    protect
 the religious institutions of          
,california1 and to see that    the     
religious rights of the people are in   
the amplest manner    preserved to them1
 the constitution of the ,united ,states
 allowing    every man to worship his   
,creator in such a manner as his own    
conscience may dictate to him4      ,the
 undersigned is also instructed to      
protect the persons and    property of  
the quiet and peaceable inhabitants of  
the country    against all or any of    
their enemies1 whether from abroad or at
 home2    and when he now assures the   
,californians that it will be his duty  
and his pleasure to comply with those   
instructions1 he calls upon    them all 
to exert themselves in preserving order 
and tranquillity1    in promoting       

harmony and concord1 and in maintaining 
the authority    and efficiency of the  
laws4      ,it is the wish and design of
 the ,united ,states to provide for     
,california1 with the least possible    
delay1 a free government1    similar to 
those in her other territories2 and the 
people will soon    be called upon to   
exercise their rights as freemen1 in    
electing    their own representatives1  
to make such laws as may be deemed best 
for their interest and welfare4 ,but    
until this can be done1 the laws    now 
in existence1 and not in conflict with  
the constitution of the    ,united      
,states1 will be continued until changed
 by competent    authority2 and those   
persons who hold office will continue in
 the    same for the present1 provided  
they swear to support that              
constitution1 and to faithfully perform 
their duty4      ,the undersigned hereby
 absolves all the inhabitants of        
,california    from any further         
allegiance to the republic of ,mexico1  

and will    consider them as citizens of
 the ,united ,states2 those who remain  
quiet and peaceable will be respected in
 their rights and protected    in them4 
,should any take up arms against or     
oppose the government of    this        
territory1 or instigate others to do so1
 they will be    considered as enemies1 
and treated accordingly4      ,when     
,mexico forced a war upon the ,united   
,states1 time did not permit    the     
latter to invite the ,californians as   
friends to join her    standard1 but    
compelled her to take possession of the 
country to    prevent any ,european     
power from seizing upon it1 and1 in     
doing so1    some excesses and          
unauthorized acts were no doubt         
committed by    persons employed in the 
service of the ,united ,states1 by which
 a few    of the inhabitants have met   
with a loss of property2 such losses    
will be duly investigated1 and those    
entitled to remuneration will    receive
 it4      ,california has for many years

 suffered greatly from domestic         
troubles2 civil wars have been the      
poisoned fountains which have    sent   
forth trouble and pestilence over her   
beautiful land4 ,now those    fountains 
are dried up2 the star-spangled banner  
floats over    ,california1 and as long 
as the sun continues to shine upon her1 
so    long will it float there1 over the
 natives of the land1 as well as        
others who have found a home in her     
bosom2 and under it agriculture    must 
improve1 and the arts and sciences      
flourish1 as seed in a rich    and      
fertile soil4      ,the ,americans and  
,californians are now but one people2   
let us    cherish one wish1 one hope1   
and let that be for the peace and quiet 
of our country4 ,let us1 as a band of   
brothers1 unite and emulate    each     
other in our exertions to benefit and   
improve this our    beautiful1 and which
 soon must be our happy and prosperous1 
home4      ,done at ,monterey1 capital  
of ,california1 this first day of       

,march1    ,a4,d4 #ahdg1 and in the     
seventy-first year of independence of   
the    ,united ,suites4      ,s4,w4     
,,kearny    ,brig4-,gen41 ,u4,s4,a41 and
 ,governor of ,california4    ,the      
proclamation of ,general ,kearny gave   
great satisfaction to the  native as    
well as the emigrant population of the  
country4 ,several of  the alcaldes of   
the district of my jurisdiction1 as well
 as private  individuals 7natives of the
 country71 expressed1 by letter and     
orally1  their approbation of the       
sentiments of the proclamation in the   
warmest  terms4 ,they said that they    
were heartily willing to become         
,americans  upon these terms1 and hoped 
that there would be the least possible  
delay in admitting them to the rights of
 ,american citizenship4 ,there  was a   
general expectation among natives as    
well as foreigners1 that a              
representative form of territorial      
government would be immediately         
established by ,general ,kearny4 ,why   

this was not done1 is explained by  the 
recent publication of ,general ,scott's 
letter to ,general ,kearny1  dated      
,november #crd1 #ahdf1 of which ,colonel
 ,mason was the bearer1 he  having left 
the ,united ,states on the #gth         
,november4 ,in this letter  ,general    
,scott says3--    ,as a guide to the    
civil governor of ,upper ,california1 in
 our hands1  see the letter of ,june    
#crd 7last71 addressed to you by the    
,secretary of  ,war4 ,you will not1     
however1 formally declare the province  
to be  annexed4 ,permanent incorporation
 of the territory must depend on the    
government of the ,united ,states4      
,after occupying with our forces all    
necessary points in ,upper  ,california1
 and establishing a temporary civil     
government therein1 as  well as assuring
 yourself of its internal tranquillity1 
and the absence  of any danger of       
reconquest on the part of ,mexico1 you  
may charge  ,colonel ,mason1 ,united    
,states first dragoons1 the bearer of   

this open  letter1 or land officer next 
in rank to your own1 with your several  
duties1 and return yourself1 with a     
sufficient escort of troops1 to ,st4    
,louis1 ,missouri2 but the body of the  
,united ,states dragoons that           
accompanied you to ,california will     
remain there until further orders4      
,the transport ships ,thomas ,h4        
,perkins1 ,loo ,choo1 ,susan ,drew1 and 
,brutus1 with ,colonel ,stevenson's     
regiment1 arrived at ,san ,francisco    
during the months of ,march and ,april4 
,these vessels were freighted with  a   
vast quantity of munitions1 stores1     
tools1 saw-mills1 grist-mills1  etc41   
etc41 to be employed in the             
fortification of the principal  harbours
 on the coast--,san ,francisco1         
,monterey1 and ,san ,diego4 ,the        
regiment of ,col4 ,stevenson was        
separated into different commands1      
portions of it being stationed at ,san  
,francisco1 ,sonoma1 ,monterey1  ,santa 
,barbara1 and ,los ,angeles2 and some   

companies employed against the          
horse-thief ,indians of the ,sierra     
,nevada and the ,tulares4    ,as good an
 account of these horse-thief ,indians1 
and their  depredations1 as ,i have     
seen1 ,i find in the ,california ,star1 
of ,march  #bhth1 #ahdg1 written by a   
gentleman who has been a resident of    
,california for a number of years1 and  
who has been a sufferer4 ,it is         
subjoined3--    ,during the ,spanish    
regime1 such a thing as a horse-thief   
was unknown  in the country2 but as soon
 as the ,mexicans took possession1 their
  characteristic anarchy began to       
prevail1 and the ,indians to desert from
  the missions4 ,the first ,indian      
horse-thief known in this part of the   
country was a neophyte of the mission of
 ,santa ,clara1 ,george1 who  flourished
 about twenty years ago4 ,he absconded  
from his mission to the  river of       
,stanislaus1 of which he was a native4  
,from thence he returned  to the        
settlements1 and began to steal horses1 

which at that time were  very numerous4 
,after pursuing his depredations for    
some time1 he was at  last pursued and  
killed on his return from one of his    
forages4 ,the  mission of ,santa ,clara 
has been1 from that time to the present 
day1 the  greatest nursery for horse    
thieves1 as the ,stanislaus river has   
been  and is their principal rendezvous4
 ,i have taken some pains to inquire    
among some of the most intelligent and  
respectable of the native  inhabitants1 
as to the probable number of horses that
 have been stolen  between ,monterey and
 ,san ,francisco within the last twenty 
years1 and  the result has been that    
more than one hundred thousand can be   
distinctly enumerated1 and that the     
total amount would probably be  double  
that number4 ,nearly all these horses   
have been eaten6 ,from the  river of    
,stanislaus1 as a central point1 the    
evil has spread to the  north and south1
 and at present extends from the        
vicinity of the  ,micklemes ,river on   

the north1 to the sources of the ,st4   
,joaquin on the  south4 ,these ,indians 
inhabit all the western declivity of the
 great  snowy mountains1 within these   
limits1 and have become so habituated to
  living on horseflesh1 that it is now  
with them the principal means of        
subsistence4    ,in past time they have 
been repeatedly pursued1 and many of    
them  killed1 and whole villages        
destroyed1 but1 so far from being       
deterred1  they are continually becoming
 more bold and daring in their          
robberies1  as horses become scarcer and
 more carefully guarded4 ,about twenty  
persons have been killed by them within 
the knowledge of the writer4  ,among    
others1 ,mr4 ,lindsay and ,mr4 ,wilson  
were killed by them not long  ago4 ,only
 about one month since1 they shot and   
dangerously wounded four  persons       
employed on the farm of ,mr4 ,weber1    
near the ,pueblo of ,st4  ,joseph1 and  
at the same time stole the horses of the
 farm1 and those  also from the farms of

 ,captain ,fisher and ,mr4 ,burnal1 in  
the same  vicinity2 in all1 about two   
hundred head4 ,within the last ten days 
numerous parties of them have been      
committing depredations on many of  the 
farms in the jurisdiction of the ,contra
 ,costa1 and scarcely a night  passes   
but we hear of their having stolen      
horses from some one4 ,three  days ago1 
a party of them were met by some young  
men who had been out  catching wild     
horses on the plains of the ,st4        
,joaquin1 but as they were  mounted on  
tired animals1 they were only able to   
recapture the stolen  horses1 but could 
not overtake the thieves4    ,it has not
 been within the scope of my design1 in 
writing out those  notes1 to enter into 
the minute details of the conquest and  
occupation  of ,california by the forces
 of the ,united ,states4 ,to do so would
  require more space than ,i have       
allowed myself1 and the matter would be 
more voluminous than interesting or     
important4 ,my intention has been to    

give such a sketch of the military      
operations in ,california1 during my    
residence and travels in the country1 as
 to afford to the reader a  general and 
correct idea of the events transpiring  
at the time4 ,no  important             
circumstance1 ,i think1 has escaped my  
attention4    ,among the officers of the
 army stationed at ,san ,francisco1 with
 whom ,i  became acquainted1 were ,major
 ,hardie1 in command of the troops1     
,captain  ,folsom1 acting               
quartermaster-general in ,california1   
and ,lieutenant  ,warner1 of the        
engineer corps4 ,lieutenant ,warner     
marched with ,general  ,kearny from the 
,united ,states1 and was at the battle  
of ,san ,pasqual4 ,i  have seen the coat
 which he wore on that occasion1 pierced
 in seven  different places by the      
lances of the enemy4 ,he did not make   
this  exhibition himself2 and ,i never  
heard him refer to the subject but      
once1 and then it was with the modesty  
of a veteran campaigner4    ,the corps  

of topographical engineers accompanying 
,general ,kearny1 under  the command of 
,captain ,emory1 will1 doubtless1       
furnish in their report  much           
interesting and valuable information4   
,mr4 ,stanley1 the artist ,of  the      
expedition1 completed his sketches in   
oil1 at ,san ,francisco2 and a  more    
truthful1 interesting1 and valuable     
series of paintings1  delineating       
mountain scenery1 the floral exhibitions
 on the route1 the  savage tribes       
between ,santa ,fe and                  
,california--combined with camp-life    
and marches through the desert and      
wilderness--has never been1 and         
probably never will be1 exhibited4 ,mr4 
,stanley informed me that he was        
preparing a work on the savage tribes of
 ,north ,america and of the  islands of 
the ,pacific1 which1 when completed on  
his plan1 will be the  most             
comprehensive and descriptive of the    
subject of any that has been  published4
    ,legal proceedings are much less    

complex in ,california than in the      
,united ,states4 ,there is no written   
statute law in the country4 ,the only   
law books ,i could find were a digested 
code entitled1 ,laws of ,spain  and the 
,indies1 published in ,spain about a    
hundred years ago1 and a  small pamphlet
 defining the powers of various judicial
 officers1  emanating from the ,mexican 
government since the revolution4 ,a late
  ,mexican governor of ,california1 on  
being required by a magistrate to       
instruct him as to the manner in which  
he should administer the law  within his
 jurisdiction1 replied1 ,administer it  
in accordance with  the principles of   
natural right and justice1 and this is  
the  foundation of ,californian         
jurisprudence4 ,the local bandos1 or    
laws1  are enacted1 adjudicated1 and    
executed by the local magistrates1 or   
alcaldes4 ,the alcalde has jurisdiction 
in all municipal matters1 and in  cases 
for minor offences1 and for debt in sums
 not over one hundred  dollars4 ,in     

cases of heinous or capital offences1   
the alcalde has  simply an examining    
power1 the testimony being taken down in
 writing1  and transmit-to the juez de  
primera instancia1 or first judge of the
  district1 before whom the case is     
tried4 ,civil actions1 for sums over    
one hundred dollars1 must also be tried 
before the juez de primera  instancia1  
and from him there is an appeal to the  
prefect1 or the  governor of the        
province4 ,the trial by hombres buenos1 
or good men1  is one of the established 
legal tribunals when either of the      
parties  demand it1 and is similar to   
our trial by jury2 the difference being 
in  the number1 the hombres buenos      
usually consisting of three or five1  as
 they may be ordered by the magistrate1 
or requested by the  litigants1 and our 
jury of twelve4 ,with honest and        
intelligent  magistrates1 the system    
operates advantageously1 as justice is  
speedy  and certain2 but the reverse of 
this1 with corrupt and ignorant         

magistrates1 too frequently in power1   
the consequences of the system  are as  
bad as can well be imagined4    ,the    
policy of the ,mexican government has   
been to encourage in certain  localities
 the erection of pueblos1 or towns1 and 
for this purpose they  have made grants 
of land to the local authorities1 or    
municipalities1  within certain defined 
limits1 to be regranted upon            
application1 in  lots of fifty or one   
hundred varass1 as the case may be1 to  
persons  declaring their intention to   
settle and to do business in the town4  
,for  these grants to individuals a     
certain sum of money is paid1 which goes
  into the treasury of the municipality4
 ,the magistrates1 however1  without    
special permission1 have no power to    
grant lots of land within  a certain    
number of feet of or below high-water   
mark4 ,the power is  reserved to be     
exercised by the governor of the        
province4 ,it being  necessary for the  
convenient landing of ships1 and for the

 discharging  and receiving of their    
cargoes1 that the beach in front of the 
town of  ,san ,francisco should be      
improved with wharfs1 etc41 etc41 and   
that  titles should be granted to       
individuals who otherwise would make no 
durable improvements4 ,as magistrate of 
the town1 in compliance with the        
request of numerous citizens1 ,i        
solicited from ,general ,kearny1 the    
acting governor1 a relinquishment1 on   
the part of the general  government1 of 
the beach lands in front of the town in 
favour of the  municipality1 under      
certain conditions4 ,this was granted by
 the  ,governor1 who issued a decree    
dated #ajth ,march1 permitting the sales
 by  auction of all such grounds        
adjacent to the water-side as might be  
found adapted to commercial purposes1   
with the exception of such lots  as     
might be selected for the use of the    
,united ,states government1 by  its     
proper officers4 ,the sales accordingly 
took place1 the lots were  eagerly      

purchased1 and the port has already     
become a place of  considerable         
commercial activity4          ,,chapter 
,,xv4    ,,general ,,observations ,,upon
 ,,the ,,country4      ,first settlement
 of the missionaries    ,population     
,characteristics of white population    
,employments    ,pleasures and          
amusements    ,position of women        
,soil    ,grasses    ,vegetable         
productions    ,agriculture    ,fruits  
,cattle    ,horses    ,wild animals     
,minerals    ,climate    ,flora         
,water-power    ,timber    ,religion4   
,it was during the month of ,november1  
#afjb1 the sun just retiring behind  the
 distant high land which forms the      
background of a spacious harbour  at the
 southernmost point of ,alta            
,california1 that a small fleet of      
vessels might have been seen directing  
their course as if in search of  a place
 of anchorage2 their light sails drawn  
up1 while the larger  ones1 swelling now
 and then to the action of the breeze1  

bore them  majestically along1 forcing  
their way through the immense and almost
  impenetrable barrier of sea-weed1 to a
 haven which1 at the remote  period     
stated1 was considered the unexplored   
region of the ,north4 ,the  fleet       
referred to hauled their wind to the    
shore1 and1 passing a bluff  point of   
land on their left1 soon came to anchor2
 but not until the  shades of night had 
cast a gloom over the scene so recently 
lighted up  with the gorgeous rays of a 
setting sun4    ,this was the           
commencement1 or rather preliminary     
mark1 of civilization  in this country1 
by the ,spaniards1 7if so it can be     
called17 and on the  following morning a
 detachment was landed1 accompanied by a
 friar1 to  make careful investigation  
of the long ridge of high land which    
serves  as a protection to the harbour  
from the heavy north-west gales4 ,they  
found1 as reported1 an abundance of     
small oak and other trees1 together     
with a great variety of useful and      

aromatic herbs2 and from its summit     
they beheld the extent and beauty of the
 port1 reaching1 as they said1  full    
three leagues from where the vessel lay 
at anchor4 ,a large tent  was erected on
 the sandy beach1 to answer the purposes
 of a church1  where the friar might    
perform mass1 and by directions of the  
commanding  officers1 the boats were    
drawn up for repairing1 wells were dug1 
parties were sent off to cut wood1 while
 guards were placed at  convenient      
distances to give notice of the approach
 of any hostile  force4 ,the latter     
precaution was hardly carried into      
effect1 ere a  large body of naked      
,indians were seen moving along the     
shore1 armed  with bows and arrows4 ,a  
friar1 protected by six soldiers1 was   
dispatched to meet them1 who1 making    
signs of peace by exhibiting a  white   
flag and throwing handfuls of sand high 
into the air1 influenced  them to lay   
aside their arms1 when1 affectionately  
embracing them1 the  good old friar     

distributed presents of beads and       
necklaces1 with which  they eagerly     
adorned their persons4 ,this            
manifestation of good feeling  induced  
them to draw near to where the commander
 had landed with his  men1 but          
perceiving so large a number1 they      
retreated to a neighbouring  knoll1 and 
from thence sent forward to the         
,spaniards ten aged females1  who1      
possessing apparently so much           
affability1 were presented  immediately 
with gifts1 and instructed to go and    
inform their people of  the friendly    
disposition cherished for them by the   
white strangers4  ,this was sufficient  
to implant a free intercourse with the  
,indians1 who  daily visited the        
,spaniards1 and bartered off their skins
 and furs in  exchange for bread and    
trinkets4 ,but at length the time       
arrived for the  fleet to depart1 and   
they proceeded northward1 visiting in   
their course  ,monterey and ,mendocino1 
where the same favourable result        

attended the  enterprise as at other    
places1 and they returned in safety to  
,new  ,spain4    ,so successful had been
 the character of this expedition       
throughout the  entire period of its    
execution1 that an enthusiasm prevailed 
in the  minds of the ,spaniards1 which  
could only be assuaged by an attempt to 
conquer and christianize the inhabitants
 of that distant portion of the         
,american continent4 ,many were the     
fruitless results of the ,spanish       
adventurer--numerous were the statements
 of his toil and labour1 till  at length
 a formidable attempt1 under the        
patronage and direction of  ,don ,gaspar
 de ,portala and ,father ,junipero      
,serra1 successfully achieved  the      
desired object for which it was planned 
and executed4    ,at ,san ,diego1 where1
 a century and a half before1 the       
primitive  navigators under ,cortez     
communed with the rude and              
unsophisticated  native--there1 where   
the zealous devotee erected his altar on

 the  burning sand1 and with offerings  
of incense and prayer hallowed it to    
,god1 as the birthplace of ,christianity
 in that region--upon that  sainted spot
 commenced the spiritual conquest1 the  
cross was erected1  and the holy        
missionaries who accompanied the        
expedition entered heart  and soul upon 
their religious duties4 ,successful in  
all they undertook1  their first        
establishment in a short time was       
completed1 and drawing  around it the   
converted ,indians in large numbers1 the
 rude and  uncultivated fields gave     
place to agricultural improvement--the  
arts  and sciences gradually obtained   
foundation where before all was         
darkness1 and day after day hundreds    
were added to the folds of the  holy and
 apostolic church4 ,thus triumphantly   
proceeded the labours of  the ,spanish  
conquerors6 ,in course of time other    
institutions were  founded at ,santa    
,barbara1 ,monterey1 and ,san           
,francisco1 where at each  place a      

military fortress was erected1 which    
served for their  protection1 and to    
keep in check such of the natives who   
were  disinclined to observe the        
regulations of the community4    ,the   
natives formed an ardent and almost     
adorable attachment for their  spiritual
 fathers1 and were happy1 quite happy1  
under their  jurisdiction4 ,ever ready  
to obey them1 the labour in the field   
and  workshop met with ready compliance1
 and so prosperous were the             
institutions that many of them became   
wealthy1 in the increase of their       
cattle and great abundance of their     
granaries4 ,it was no unusual sight  to 
behold the plains for leagues literally 
spotted with bullocks1 and  large fields
 of corn and wheat covering acres of    
ground4 ,this state of  things continued
 until the period when ,mexico underwent
 a change in its  political form of     
government1 which so disheartened the   
feelings of the  loyal missionaries1    
that they became regardless of their    

establishments1 and suffered them to    
decline for want of attention to  their 
interests4 ,at length1 civil discord and
 anarchy among the  ,californians       
prepared a more effective measure for   
their destruction1  and they were left  
to the superintendence of individuals   
who plundered  them of all that was     
desirable or capable of removal4 ,thus1 
the  government commenced the robbery1  
and its hirelings carried it out to  the
 letter1 destroying and laying waste    
wherever they were placed4 ,in  order to
 give the inhabitants a share of the    
spoils1 some of them were  permitted to 
slaughter the cattle by contract1 which 
was an equal  division of the proceeds1 
and the contractors were careful1 when  
they  delivered one hide to a mission1  
to reserve two for themselves1 in  this 
way following up the example of their   
superiors4    ,this important revolution
 in the systematic order of the monastic
  institutions took place in #ahcf1 at  
which period the most important of  them

 possessed property1 exclusive of their 
lands and tenements1 to the  value of   
two hundred and fifty thousand dollars4 
,at the present day  they have but a    
little more than dilapidated walls and  
restricted  boundaries of territory4    
,notwithstanding this wanton devastation
 of  property1 contrary to the opinion  
of many who were strongly in favour  of 
supporting these religious institutions1
 the result proved  beneficial to the   
country at large4 ,individual enterprise
 succeeded as  the lands became         
distributed1 so that the ,californian   
beheld himself no  longer dependent on  
the bounty of his spiritual directors1  
but1 on the  contrary1 he was enabled to
 give support to them1 from the increase
 and  abundance of his own possessions4 
,subsequent to the expulsion of the     
,mexicans1 numbers of new farms were    
created1 and hundreds of ,americans were
 scattered over the country4  ,previous 
to #ahcj1 the actual possessions of     
horned cattle by the  rancheros did not 

exceed one hundred thousand2 but in     
#ahdb1 according  to a fair estimate1   
made by one on the spot1 the number had 
increased  to four hundred thousand2 so 
that the aggregate is equal to that held
  by the missions when in their most    
flourishing condition4 ,the present     
number is not much1 if any1 short of one
 million4    ,presuming a statistical   
knowledge of this country1 before and   
after the  missionary institutions were 
secularized1 may be interesting1 ,i will
  insert the following returns of #ahca 
and #ahdb1 to contrast the same  with   
its present condition3--    #ast4 ,in   
#ahcb the white population throughout   
,alta-,california did not  exceed       
#d1ejj1 while the ,indians of the       
twenty-one missions amounted to         
#ai1jjj2 in #ahdb1 the former had       
increased to #g1jjj1 and the latter     
decreased to about #e1jjj4    #bnd4 ,in 
the former year1 the number of horned   
cattle1 including  individual           
possessions1 amounted to #ejj1jjj2 in   

the latter1 to #dj1jjj4    #crd4 ,at the
 same period1 the number of sheep1      
goats1 and pigs1 was  #cba1jjj2 at the  
latter1 #cb1jjj4    #dth4 ,in #ahca the 
number of horses1 asses1 mules1 etc41   
was #fd1jjj2 in  #ahdb it was #cj1jjj4  
#eth4 ,the produce in corn1 etc41 had   
decreased in a much greater             
proportion--that of seventy to four4    
,the amount of duties raised at the     
customhouse in ,monterey1 from #ahci  to
 #ahdb1 was as follows1 viz43--         
#ahci        #he1fac dollars4    #ahdj  
#gb1cjh dollars    #ahda       #aja1aej 
dollars    #ahdb        #gc1gbi dollars4
    ,the net amount of revenue seldom   
exceeding in any year eighty thousand   
dollars2 so that1 when a deficiency took
 place1 to supply the  expenditures of  
government1 it had been usual to call   
upon the missions  for aid4    ,the     
value of the hides and tallow derived   
from the annual matanzas  may be        
estimated at #cgb1jjj dollars4 ,these   
two commodities1 with the  exception of 

some beaver1 sea-otter1 and other furs1 
comprise the most  important part of the
 exportations1 which in addition1 would 
augment  the value of exports to        
#djj1jjj dollars4    ,the permanent     
population of that portion of ,upper    
,california situated  between the       
,sierra ,nevada and the ,pacific1 ,i    
estimate at #be1jjj4 ,of  this number1  
#h1jjj are ,hispano-,americans1 #e1jjj  
foreigners1 chiefly  from the ,united   
,states1 and #ab1jjj christianized      
,indians4 ,there are  considerable      
numbers of wild or ,gentile ,indians1   
inhabiting the valley  of the ,san      
,joaquin and the gorges of the ,sierra1 
not included in this  estimate4 ,they   
are probably as numerous as the         
,christian ,indians4 ,the  ,indian      
population inhabiting the region of the 
,great ,salt ,lake1 ,mary's  ,river1 the
 oases of the ,great ,desert ,basin1 and
 the country bordering  the ,rio        
,colorado and its tributaries1 being    
spread over a vast extent  of territory1

 are scarcely seen1 although the        
aggregate number is  considerable4      
,the ,californians do not differ        
materially from the ,mexicans1 from whom
  they are descended1 in other provinces
 of that country4 ,physically and       
intellectually1 the men1 probably1 are  
superior to the same race  farther      
south1 and inhabiting the countries     
contiguous to the city of  ,mexico4 ,the
 intermixture of blood with the ,indian 
and negro races has  been less1 although
 it is very perceptible4    ,the men1 as
 a general fact1 are well made1 with    
pleasing sprightly  countenances1 and   
possessing much grace and ease of       
manners1 and  vivacity of conversation4 
,but hitherto they have had little      
knowledge  of the world and of events1  
beyond what they have heard through     
,mexico1  and derived from the          
supercargoes of merchant-ships and      
whalemen  touching upon the coast4      
,there are no public schools in the     
country--at  least ,i never heard of    

one4 ,there are but few books4 ,general 
,valljo  has a library with many        
valuable books1 and this is the only one
 ,i saw1  although there are others2 but
 they are rare1 and confined to a few   
families4    ,the men are almost        
constantly on horseback1 and as horsemen
 excel any ,i  have seen in other parts 
of the world4 ,from the nature of their 
pursuits and amusements1 they have      
brought horsemanship to a perfection    
challenging admiration and exciting     
astonishment4 ,they are trained to  the 
horse and the use of the lasso 7riata1  
as it is here called7 from  their       
infancy4 ,the first act of a child1 when
 he is able to stand  alone1 is to throw
 his toy lasso around the neck of a     
kitten2 his next  feat is performed on  
the dog2 his next upon a goat or calf2  
and so on1  until he mounts the horse1  
and demonstrates his skill upon horses  
and  cattle4 ,the crowning feat of      
dexterity with the riata1 and of        
horsemanship1 combined with daring      

courage1 is the lassoing of the  grisly 
bear4 ,this feat is performed frequently
 upon this large and  ferocious animal1 
but it is sometimes fatal to the        
performer and his  horse4 ,well drilled1
 with experienced military leaders1 such
 as would  inspire them with confidence 
in their skill and prowess1 the         
,californians ought to be the finest    
cavalry in the world4 ,the  ,californian
 saddle is1 ,i venture to assert1 the   
best that has been  invented1 for the   
horse and the rider4 ,seated in one of  
these1 it is  scarcely possible to be   
unseated by any ordinary casualty4 ,the 
bridle-bit is clumsily made1 but so     
constructed that the horse is  compelled
 to obey the rider upon the slightest   
intimation4 ,the spurs  are of immense  
size1 but they answer to an experienced 
horseman the  double purpose of exciting
 the horse1 and of maintaining the rider
 in  his seat under difficult           
circumstances4    ,for the pleasures of 
the table they care but little4 ,with   

his horse and  trappings1 his sarape and
 blanket1 a piece of beef and a         
tortilla1  the ,californian is content1 
so far as his personal comforts are     
concerned4 ,but he is ardent in his     
pursuit of amusement and pleasure1  and 
these consist chiefly in the fandango1  
the game of monte1  horse-racing1 and   
bull and bear-baiting4 ,they gamble     
freely and  desperately1 but pay their  
losses with the most strict punctuality1
 at  any and every sacrifice1 and       
manifest but little concern about them4 
,they are obedient to their magistrates1
 and in all disputed cases  decided by  
them1 acquiesce without uttering a word 
of complaint4 ,they  have been accused  
of treachery and insincerity4 ,whatever 
may have been  the grounds for these    
accusations in particular instances1 ,i 
know not2  but1 judging from my own     
observation and experience1 they are as 
free  from these qualities as our own   
people4    ,while the men are employed  
in attending to the herds of cattle and 

horses1 and engaged in their other      
amusements1 the women 7,i speak of  the 
middle classes on the ranchos7          
superintend and perform most of the     
drudgery appertaining to housekeeping1  
and the cultivation of the  gardens1    
from whence are drawn such vegetables as
 are consumed at the  table4 ,these are 
few1 consisting of frijoles1 potatoes1  
onions1 and  chiles4 ,the assistants in 
these labours are the ,indian men and   
women1  legally reduced to servitude4   
,the soil of that portion of ,california
 between the ,sierra ,nevada and  the   
,pacific will compare1 in point of      
fertility1 with any that ,i have  seen  
elsewhere4 ,as ,i have already described
 such portions of it as have  come under
 my observation1 it is unnecessary for  
me here to descend to  particulars4     
,wheat1 barley1 and other small grains1 
with hemp1 flax1  and tobacco1 can be   
produced in all the valleys1 without    
irrigation4 ,to  produce maize1         
potatoes1 and other garden vegetables1  

irrigation is  necessary4 ,oats and     
mustard grow spontaneously1 with such   
rankness as  to be considered nuisances 
upon the soil4 ,i have forced my way    
through  thousands of acres of these1   
higher than my head when mounted on a   
horse4 ,the oats grow to the summits of 
the hills1 but they are not here  so    
tall and rank as in the valleys4    ,the
 varieties of grasses are greater than  
on the ,atlantic side of the  continent1
 and far more nutritious4 ,i have seen  
seven different kinds  of clover1       
several of them in a dry state1         
depositing a seed upon the  ground so   
abundant as to cover it1 which is lapped
 up by the cattle and  horses and other 
animals1 as corn or oats1 when threshed1
 would be with  us4 ,all the grasses1   
and they cover the entire country1 are  
heavily  seeded1 and1 when ripe1 are as 
fattening to stock as the grains which  
we feed to our beef1 horses1 and hogs4  
,hence it is unnecessary to the         
sustenance or fattening of stock to     

raise corn for their consumption4       
,agriculture is in its rudest state4    
,the farming implements which have  been
 used by the ,californians1 with few    
exceptions1 are the same as  were used  
three hundred years ago1 when ,mexico   
was conquered by ,cortez4  ,a           
description of them would be tedious4   
,the plough1 however1 which  merely     
scratches the ground1 is the fork of a  
small tree4 ,it is the  same pattern as 
the ,roman plough1 two thousand years   
ago4 ,other  agricultural implements are
 of the same description4 ,the          
,americans1 and  other foreigners1 are1 
however1 introducing the ,american      
plough1 and  other ,american farming    
tools1 the consequence of which has     
already  been1 to some extent1 to       
produce a revolution in agriculture4    
,the crops  of wheat and barley1 which  
,i saw about the #ast of ,june1 while   
passing  through the country on my      
journey to the ,united ,states1 exceeded
 in  promise any which ,i have seen in  

the ,united ,states4 ,it was reported to
  me that ,captain ,sutter's crop of    
wheat1 for #ahdg1 would amount to       
#ge1jjj bushels4    ,the natural        
vegetable productions of ,california    
have been sufficiently  noticed in the  
course of this work1 for the reader to  
form a correct  estimate of the         
capabilities of the soil and climate4   
,it is supposed by  some1 that cotton1  
sugar1 and rice1 could be produced here4
 ,i do not  doubt but there are portions
 of the country where these crops would 
thrive2 but ,i question whether1        
generally1 they could be cultivated to  
advantage4 ,nearly all the fruits of the
 temperate and tropical climates  are   
produced in perfection in ,california1  
as has before been stated4    ,the      
principal product of the country has    
been its cattle and horses4  ,the cattle
 are1 ,i think1 the largest and finest  
,i ever saw1 and the  beef is more      
delicious4 ,there are immense herds of  
these1 to which ,i  have previously     

referred2 and their hides and tallow1   
when slaughtered1  have hitherto        
composed the principal exports from the 
country4 ,if ,i  were to hazard an      
estimate of the number of hides annually
 exported1 it  would be conjectural1 and
 not worth much4 ,i would suppose1      
however1 at  this time 7#ahdg71 that the
 number would not fall much short of    
#aej1jjj1  and a corresponding number of
 arrobas 7#be pounds7 of tallow4 ,the   
average value of cattle is about five   
dollars per head4    ,the horses and    
mules are correspondingly numerous with 
the cattle2 and  although the most of   
them are used in the country1           
considerable numbers  are driven to     
,sonora1 ,new ,mexico1 and other        
southern provinces1 and  some of them to
 the ,united ,states1 for a market4     
,they are smaller than  ,american       
horses1 and ,i do not think them equal  
for continuous hard  service2 but on    
short trips1 for riding1 their speed and
 endurance are  not often1 if ever1     

equalled by our breed of horses4 ,the   
value of good  horses is from ten to    
twenty-five dollars2 of mares1 five     
dollars4 ,the  prices have1 however1    
since the ,americans came into the      
country1 become  fluctuating1 and the   
value of both horses and cattle is      
increasing  rapidly4    ,the wild       
animals of ,california are the          
wild-horse1 the elk1 the  black-tailed  
deer1 antelope1 grizly bear1 all in     
large numbers4 ,added  to these are the 
beaver1 otter1 coyote1 hare1 squirrel1  
and the usual  variety of other small   
animals4 ,there is not so great a       
variety of  small birds as ,i have seen 
elsewhere4 ,i do not consider that the  
country presents strong attractions for 
the ornithologist4 ,but what is  wanting
 in variety is made up in numbers4 ,the 
bays and indentations on  the coast1 as 
well as the rivers and lakes interior1  
swarm with myriads  of wild geese1      
ducks1 swans1 and other water birds4    
,the geese and ducks  are a mongrel     

race1 their plumage being variegated1   
the same as our  barn-yard fowls4 ,some 
of the islands in the harbour1 near ,san
  ,francisco1 are white with the guano  
deposited by these birds2 and           
boat-loads of eggs are taken from them4 
,the pheasant and partridge are         
abundant in the mountains4    ,in regard
 to the minerals of ,california1 not    
much is yet known4 ,it has  been the    
policy of the owners of land upon which 
there existed minerals  to conceal them 
as much as possible4 ,a reason for this 
has been1 that  the law of ,mexico is   
such1 that if one man discovers a mine  
of any kind  upon another man's land1   
and the proprietor does not work it1 the
  former may denounce the mine1 and take
 possession of it1 and hold it  so long 
as he continues to work it4 ,hence the  
proprietors of land upon  which there   
are valuable mineral ores conceal their 
existence as much  as possible4 ,while  
in ,california ,i saw quicksilver1      
silver1 lead1 and  iron ores1 and the   

specimens were taken from mines said to 
be  inexhaustible4 ,from good authority 
,i learned the existence of gold and    
copper mines1 the metals being combined2
 and ,i saw specimens of coal  taken    
from two or three different points1 but 
,i do not know what the  indications    
were as to quality4 ,brimstone1         
saltpetre1 muriate and  carbonate of    
soda1 and bitumen1 are abundant4 ,there 
is little doubt  that ,california is as 
rich in minerals of all kinds as any    
portion of  ,mexico4    ,i have taken   
much pains to describe to the reader1   
from day to day1 and  at different      
points during my travels in ,california1
 the temperature  and weather4 ,it is   
rarely so cold in the settled portions  
of ,california  as to congeal water4    
,but twice only while here ,i saw ice1  
and then not  thicker than window-glass4
 ,i saw no snow resting upon the ground4
 ,the  annual rains commence in         
,november1 and continue1 with intervals 
of  pleasant springlike weather1 until  

,may4 ,from ,may to ,november1 usually1 
no rain falls4 ,there are1 however1     
exceptions4 ,rain sometimes falls in    
,august4 ,the thermometer1 at any season
 of the year1 rarely sinks below  #ej or
 rises above #hj4 ,in certain positions 
on the coast1 and  especially at ,san   
,francisco1 the winds rise diurnally1   
and blowing  fresh upon the shore render
 the temperature cool in midsummer4 ,in 
the  winter the wind blows from the     
land1 and the temperature at these      
points is warmer4 ,these local          
peculiarities of climate are not        
descriptive of the general climate of   
the interior4    ,for salubrity ,i do   
not think there is any climate in the   
world superior  to that of the coast of 
,california4 ,i was in the country      
nearly a year1  exposed much of the time
 to great hardships and privations1     
sleeping1  for the most part1 in the    
open air1 and ,i never felt while there 
the  first pang of disease1 or the      
slightest indication of bad health4 ,on 

some portions of the ,sacramento and    
,san ,joaquin ,rivers1 where  vegetation
 is rank1 and decays in the autumn1 the 
malaria produces  chills and fever1 but 
generally the attacks are slight1 and   
yield  easily to medicine4 ,the         
atmosphere is so pure and preservative  
along  the coast1 that ,i never saw     
putrified flesh1 although ,i have seen1 
in  midsummer1 dead carcasses lying     
exposed to the sun and weather for      
months4 ,they emitted no offensive      
smell4 ,there is but little disease in  
the country arising from the climate4   
,the botany and flora of ,california are
 rich1 and will hereafter form a        
fruitful field of discovery to the      
naturalist4 ,there are numerous  plants 
reported to possess extraordinary       
medical virtues4 ,the  soap-plant       
7amole7 is one which appears to be among
 the most  serviceable4 ,the root1 which
 is the saponaceous portion of the      
plant1  resembles the onion1 but        
possesses the quality of cleansing linen

 equal  to any oleic soap manufactured  
by my friends ,cornwall and ,brother1 of
  ,louisville1 ,ky4    ,there is another
 plant in high estimation with the      
,californians1 called  canchalagua1     
which is held by them as an antidote for
 all the  diseases to which they are    
subject1 but in particular for cases of 
fever and ague4 ,for purifying the      
blood1 and regulating the system1 ,i    
think it surpasses all the medicinal    
herbs that have been brought into       
notice1 and it must become1 in time1 one
 of the most important articles  in the 
practice of medicine4 ,in the season for
 flowers1 which is  generally during the
 months of ,may and ,june1 its pretty   
pink-coloured  blossoms form a          
conspicuous display in the great variety
 which adorn  the fields of ,california4
    ,the water-power in ,california is  
ample for any required mill purposes4   
,timber for lumber is not so convenient 
as is desirable4 ,there is1  however1 a 
sufficiency of it1 which1 when          

improvements are made1 will  be more    
accessible4 ,the timber on the ,sierra  
,nevada1 the most  magnificent in the   
world1 cannot be1 at present1 available4
 ,the  evergreen oak1 that grows        
generally in the valleys1 is not        
valuable1  except for fuel4 ,but in the 
canadas of the hills1 and at several    
places on the coast1 particularly at    
,santa ,cruz and ,bodega1 there is an   
amount of pine and fir1 adapted for     
lumber1 that will not be consumed  for a
 long time4    ,the religion of the     
,californians is the ,roman ,catholic1  
and1 like the  people of all ,roman     
,catholic countries1 they appear to be  
devotedly  attached to the forms of     
their religion4 ,that there are some1 ,i
 will  not say how many1 paganish grafts
 upon the laws1 formalities1 and        
ceremonies1 as prescribed by the ,holy  
,church ,universal for its  government  
and observance1 is undeniable1 but these
 probably do not  materially affect the 
system4 ,the females1 ,i noticed1 were  

nearly all  devoutly attached to their  
religious institutions4 ,i have seen1 on
  festival or saint days1 the entire    
floor of a church occupied by pious     
women1 with their children1 kneeling in 
devout worship1 and chanting  with much 
fervency some dismal hymn appertaining  
to the service4 ,there  are but few of  
the ,jesuit fathers who established the 
missions now  remaining in the country4 
,the services are performed at several  
of the  churches that ,i visited1 by    
native ,indians1 educated by the padres 
previous to their expulsion by the      
,mexican government4          ,,chapter 
,,xvi4    ,,official ,,report ,,on ,,the
 ,,gold ,,mines4      ,the following is 
an official account of a visit paid to  
the gold region  in ,july by ,colonel   
,mason1 who had been appointed to the   
military  command in ,california1 and   
made his report to the authorities at   
,washington4 ,it is dated from          
head-quarters at ,monterey1 ,august #ag1
  #ahdh4    ,sir1--,i have the honour to

 inform you that1 accompanied by ,lieut4
 ,w4,t4  ,sherman1 #crd ,artillery1     
,a4,a4,a4 ,general1 ,i started on the   
#abth of ,june  last to make a tour     
through the northern part of            
,california4 ,we reached  ,san          
,francisco on the #bjth1 and found that 
all1 or nearly all1 its male            
inhabitants had gone to the mines4 ,the 
town1 which a few months before  was so 
busy and thriving1 was then almost      
deserted4 ,along the whole  route mills 
were lying idle1 fields of wheat were   
open to cattle and  horses1 houses      
vacant1 and farms going to waste4    ,on
 the #eth we arrived in the             
neighbourhood of the mines1 and         
proceeded  twenty-five miles up the     
,american ,fork1 to a point on it now   
known as  the ,lower ,mines1 or ,mormon 
,diggings4 ,the hill sides were thickly 
strewn  with canvas tents and           
bush-harbours2 a store was erected1 and 
several  boarding shanties in operation4
 ,the day was intensely hot1 yet about  

#bjj men were at work in the full glare 
of the sun1 washing for  gold--some with
 tin pans1 some with close woven ,indian
 baskets1 but the  greater part had a   
rude machine known as the cradle4 ,this 
is on  rockers1 six or eight feet long1 
open at the foot1 and its head had a    
coarse grate1 or sieve2 the bottom is   
rounded1 with small cleets nailed       
across4 ,four men are required to work  
this machine2 one digs the ground  in   
the bank close by the stream2 another   
carries it to the cradle1 and  empties  
it on the grate2 a third gives a violent
 rocking motion to the  machine1 whilst 
a fourth dashes on water from the stream
 itself4 ,the  sieve keeps the coarse   
stones from entering the cradle1 the    
current of  water washes off the earthy 
matter1 and the gravel is gradually     
carried  out at the foot of the machine1
 leaving the gold mixed with a heavy    
fine black sand above the first cleets4 
,the sand and gold mixed  together are  
then drawn off through auger holes into 

a pan below1 are  dried in the sun1 and 
afterwards separated by blowing off the 
sand4 ,a  party of four men1 thus       
employed at the ,lower ,mines1 average  
#ajj  dollars a-day4 ,the ,indians1 and 
those who have nothing but pans or      
willow baskets1 gradually wash out the  
earth1 and separate the gravel  by hand1
 leaving nothing but the gold mixed with
 sand1 which is  separated in the manner
 before described4 ,the gold in the     
,lower ,mines  is in fine bright scales1
 of which ,i send several specimens4    
,as we ascended the south branch of the 
,american fork1 the country  became more
 broken and mountainous1 and twenty-five
 miles below the  lower washings the    
hills rise to about #ajjj feet above the
 level of the  ,sacramento ,plain4 ,here
 a species of pine occurs1 which led to 
the  discovery of the gold4 ,captain    
,sutter1 feeling the great want of      
lumber1 contracted in ,september last   
with a ,mr4 ,marshall to build a        
saw-mill at that place4 ,it was erected 

in the course of the past winter  and   
spring--a dam and race constructed2 but 
when the water was let on  the wheel1   
the tail race was found to be too narrow
 to permit the water  to escape with    
sufficient rapidity4 ,mr4 ,marshall1 to 
save labour1 let  the water directly    
into the race with a strong current1 so 
as to wash  it wider and deeper4 ,he    
effected his purpose1 and a large bed of
 mud  and gravel was carried to the foot
 of the race4 ,one day ,mr4 ,marshall1  
as he was walking down the race to this 
deposit of mud1 observed some           
glittering particles at its upper edge2 
he gathered a few1 examined  them1 and  
became satisfied of their value4 ,he    
then went to the fort1  told ,captain   
,sutter of his discovery1 and they      
agreed to keep it secret  until a       
certain grist-mill of ,sutter's was     
finished4 ,it1 however1 got  out and    
spread like magic4 ,remarkable success  
attended the labours of  the first      
explorers1 and1 in a few weeks1 hundreds

 of men were drawn  thither4 ,at the    
time of my visit1 but little more than  
three months  after its first discovery1
 it was estimated that upwards of four  
thousand people were employed4 ,at the  
mill there is a fine deposit or  bank of
 gravel1 which the people respect as the
 property of ,captain  ,sutter1 though  
he pretends to no right to it1 and would
 be perfectly  satisfied with the simple
 promise of a pre-emption on account of 
the  mill which he has built there at a 
considerable cost4 ,mr4 ,marshall was   
living near the mill1 and informed me   
that many persons were employed  above  
and below him2 that they used the same  
machines as at the lower  washings1 and 
that their success was about the        
same--ranging from one  to three ounces 
of gold per man daily4 ,this gold1 too1 
is in scales a  little coarser than     
those of the lower mines4 ,from the mill
 ,mr4  ,marshall guided me up the       
mountain on the opposite or north bank  
of the  south fork1 where in the bed of 

small streams or ravines1 now dry1 a    
great deal of coarse gold has been      
found4 ,i there saw several parties  at 
work1 all of whom were doing very well2 
a great many specimens were  shown me1  
some as heavy as four or five ounces in 
weight2 and ,i send  three pieces1      
labelled ,no4 #e1 presented by a ,mr4   
,spence4 ,you will  perceive that some  
of the specimens accompanying this hold 
mechanically  pieces of quartz--that the
 surface is rough1 and evidently moulded
 in  the crevice of a rock4 ,this gold  
cannot have been carried far by water1  
but must have remained near where it was
 first deposited from the rock  that    
once bound it4 ,i inquired of many if   
they had encountered the  metal in its  
matrix1 but in every instance they said 
they had not2 but  that the gold was    
invariably mixed with wash-gravel1 or   
lodged in the  crevices of other rocks4 
,all bore testimony that they had found 
gold in  greater or less quantities in  
the numerous small gullies or ravines   

that occur in that mountainous region4  
,on the #gth of ,july ,i left the  mill1
 and crossed to a small stream emptying 
into the ,american fork1  three or four 
miles below the saw-mill4 ,i struck the 
stream 7now known  as ,weber's ,creek7  
at the washings of ,sunol and ,company4 
,they had about  thirty ,indians        
employed1 whom they pay in merchandise4 
,they were  getting gold of a character 
similar to that found in the main fork1 
and  doubtless in sufficient quantities 
to satisfy them4 ,i send you a small    
specimen1 presented by this ,company1 of
 their gold4 ,from this point we        
proceeded up the stream about eight     
miles1 where we found a great many      
people and ,indians1 some engaged in the
 bed of the stream1 and others  in the  
small side valleys that put into it4    
,these latter are  exceedingly rich1 two
 ounces being considered an ordinary    
yield for a  day's work4 ,a small       
gutter1 not more than #ajj yards long by
 four feet  wide1 and two or three deep1

 was pointed out to me as the one where 
two  men 7,w4 ,daly and ,percy ,mc,coon7
 had a short time before obtained4      
#ag1jjj  dollars' worth of gold4        
,captain ,weber informed me1 that he    
knew that  these two men had employed   
four white men and about #ajj ,indians1 
and  that1 at the end of one week's     
work1 they paid off their party1 and had
  left #aj1jjj dollars' worth of this   
gold4 ,another small ravine was shown   
me1 from which had been taken upwards of
 #ab1jjj dollars' worth of gold4        
,hundreds of similar ravines1 to all    
appearances1 are as yet untouched4  ,i  
could not have credited these reports   
had ,i not seen1 in the  abundance of   
the precious metal1 evidence of their   
truth4 ,mr4 ,neligh1  an agent of       
,commodore ,stockton1 had been at work  
about three weeks in  the neighbourhood1
 and showed me1 in bags and bottles1    
#bjjj dollars'  worth of gold2 and ,mr4 
,lyman1 a gentleman of education1 and   
worthy of  every credit1 said he had    

been engaged with four others1 with a   
machine1 on the ,american fork1 just    
below ,sutter's ,mill1 that they  worked
 eight days1 and that his share was at  
the rate of fifty dollars  a-day1 but   
hearing that others were doing better at
 ,weber's ,place1 they  had removed     
there1 and were then on the point of    
resuming operations4    ,the country on 
either side of ,weber's ,creek is much  
broken up by  hills1 and is intersected 
in every direction by small streams or  
ravines which contain more or less gold4
 ,those that have been worked  are      
barely scratched1 and1 although         
thousands of ounces have been  carried  
away1 ,i do not consider that a serious 
impression has been made  upon the      
whole4 ,every day was developing new and
 richer deposits2 and  the only         
impression seemed to be1 that the metal 
would be found in such  abundance as    
seriously to depreciate in value4    ,on
 the #hth ,july ,i returned to the lower
 mines1 and eventually to  ,monterey1   

where ,i arrived on the #agth of ,july4 
,before leaving ,sutter's1  ,i satisfied
 myself that gold existed in the bed of 
the ,feather ,river1  in the ,yubah and 
,bear1 and in many of the small streams 
that lie  between the latter and the    
,american fork2 also1 that it had been  
found  in the ,consummes1 to the south  
of the ,american fork4 ,in each of these
  streams the gold is found in small    
scales1 whereas in the intervening      
mountains it occurs in coarser lumps4   
,mr4 ,sinclair1 whose rancho is three   
miles above ,sutter's on the north  side
 of the ,american1 employs about fifty  
,indians on the north fork1  not far    
from its junction with the main stream4 
,he had been engaged  about five weeks  
when ,i saw him1 and up to that time his
 ,indians had  used simply closely-woven
 willow baskets4 ,his net proceeds      
7which ,i  saw7 were about #af1jjj      
dollars' worth of gold4 ,he showed me   
the  proceeds of his last week's        
work--#ad lbs4 avoirdupois of           

clean-washed  gold4    ,the principal   
store at ,sutter's fort1 that of        
,brannan and ,co41 had  received in     
payment for goods #cf1jjj dollars' worth
 of this gold from  the #ast of ,may to 
the #ajth of ,july4 ,other merchants had
 also made  extensive sales4 ,large     
quantities of goods were daily sent     
forward to  the mines1 as the ,indians1 
heretofore so poor and degraded1 have   
suddenly become consumers of the        
luxuries of life4 ,i before mentioned   
that the greater part of the farmers and
 rancheros had abandoned their  fields  
to go to the mines4 ,this is not the    
case with ,captain ,sutter1  who was    
carefully gathering his wheat1 estimated
 at #dj1jjj bushels4  ,flour is already 
worth1 at ,sutter's1 #cf dollars        
a-barrel1 and will soon  be #ej4 ,unless
 large quantities of breadstuffs reach  
the country much  suffering will occur2 
but as each man is now able to pay a    
large price1  it is believed the        
merchants will bring from ,chili and the

 ,oregon a  plentiful supply for the    
coming winter4    ,the most moderate    
estimate ,i could obtain from men       
acquainted with the  subject was1 that  
upwards of #d1jjj men were working in   
the gold  district1 of whom more than   
one-half were ,indians1 and that from   
#cj1jjj  to #ej1jjj dollars' worth of   
gold1 if not more1 were daily obtained4 
,the  entire gold district1 with very   
few exceptions of grants made some      
years ago by the ,mexican authorities1  
is on land belonging to the  ,united    
,states4 ,it was a matter of serious    
reflection to me1 how ,i could  secure  
to the ,government certain rents or fees
 for the privilege of  securing this    
gold2 but upon considering the large    
extent of country1  the character of the
 people engaged1 and the small scattered
 force at  my command1 ,i resolved not  
to interfere1 but permit all to work    
freely1  unless broils and crimes should
 call for interference4    ,the         
discovery of these vast deposits of gold

 has entirely changed the  character of 
,upper ,california4 ,its people1 before 
engaged in  cultivating their small     
patches of ground1 and guarding their   
herds of  cattle and horses1 have all   
gone to the mines1 or are on their way  
thither4 ,labourers of every trade have 
left their work-benches1 and  tradesmen 
their shops2 sailors desert their ships 
as fast as they  arrive on the coast2   
and several vessels have gone to sea    
with hardly  enough hands to spread a   
sail4 ,two or three are now at anchor in
 ,san  ,francisco1 with no crew on      
board4 ,many desertions1 too1 have taken
  place from the garrisons within the   
influence of these mines2  twenty-six   
soldiers have deserted from the post of 
,sonoma1 twenty-four  from that of ,san 
,francisco1 and twenty-four from        
,monterey4 ,i have no  hesitation now in
 saying1 that there is more gold in the 
country  drained by the ,sacramento and 
,san ,joaquin ,rivers than will pay the 
cost  of the present war with ,mexico a 

hundred times over4 ,no capital is      
required to obtain this gold1 as the    
labouring man wants nothing but  his    
pick and shovel and tin pan1 with which 
to dig and wash the gravel1  and many   
frequently pick gold out of the crevices
 of rocks with their  knives1 in pieces 
of from one to six ounces4    ,gold is  
also believed to exist on the eastern   
slope of the ,sierra  ,nevada2 and1 when
 at the mines1 ,i was informed by an    
intelligent ,mormon  that it had been   
found near the ,great ,salt ,lake by    
some of his  fraternity4 ,nearly all the
 ,mormons are leaving ,california to go 
to the  ,salt ,lake2 and this they      
surely would not do unless they were    
sure of  finding gold there1 in the same
 abundance as they now do on the        
,sacramento4    ,i have the honour to   
be1    ,your most obedient ,servant1    
,r4,b4 ,,mason1 ,colonel #ast ,dragoons1
 commanding4    ,brigadier-,general ,r4 
,jones1  ,adjutant-,general1 ,u4,s4,a41 
,washington1 ,d4,c4          ,,chapter  

,,xvii4      ,rate of ,wages    ,mode of
 procuring the ,gold    ,extent of ,gold
 ,region    ,price of ,provisions4      
,it will be seen1 from the later        
accounts that each new report continues 
to realize the wildest expectation4 ,the
 following letter dated  ,monterey1     
,november #afth1 is highly interesting--
    ,we can now call ourselves citizens 
of the ,united ,states4 ,we have now    
only to go by law1 as we formerly went  
by custom2 that is1 when  ,congress     
gives us a government and code4 ,the old
 foreign residents of  ,california1     
having done very well ten or twenty     
years without law1 care  but very little
 whether ,congress pays early or late   
attention to the  subject4 ,those who   
have emigrated from the ,atlantic       
,states within the  last three or four  
years deem the subject an important one2
 ,i only call  it difficult4 ,the       
carrying out a code of laws1 under      
existing  circumstances1 is far from    
being an easy task4 ,the general        

,government  may appoint governors1     
secretaries1 and other public           
functionaries2 and  judges1 marshals1   
collectors1 etc41 may accept offices    
with salaries of  #cjjj or #djjj dollars
 per annum2 but how they are to obtain  
their petty  officers1 at half these    
sums1 remains to be seen4 ,the pay of a 
member  of ,congress will be accepted   
here by those alone who do not know     
enough  to better themselves4 ,mechanics
 can now get #aj to #af dollars per day2
  labourers on the wharfs or elsewhere1 
#e to #aj dollars2 clerks and           
storekeepers1 #ajjj to #cjjj dollars per
 annum--some engage to keep store       
during their pleasure at #h dollars per 
day1 or #a lb4 or #a-a_/b lb4 of  gold  
per month2 cooks and stewards1 #fj to   
#ajj dollars per month4 ,in  fact1      
labour of every description commands    
exorbitant prices4    ,the ,sandwich    
,islands1 ,oregon1 and ,lower           
,california are fast parting  with their
 inhabitants1 all bound for this coast1 

and thence to the  great 'placer' of the
 ,sacramento ,valley1 where the digging 
and washing  of one man that does not   
produce #ajj troy ounces of gold1 #bc   
carats1  from the size of a half spangle
 to one pound in a month1 sets the      
digger to 'prospecting1' that is1       
looking for better grounds4 ,your       
',paisano' can point out many a man who 
has1 for fifteen to twenty days  in     
succession1 bagged up five to ten ounces
 of gold a-day4 ,our placer1  or gold   
region1 now extends over #cjj or #djj   
miles of country1 embracing  all the    
creeks and branches on the east side of 
the river ,sacramento  and one side of  
the ,san ,joaquin4 ,in my travels ,i    
have1 when resting  under a tree and    
grazing my horse1 seen pieces of pure   
gold taken from  crevices of the rocks  
or slate where we were stopping4 ,on one
 occasion1  nooning or refreshing on the
 side of a stream entirely unknown to   
diggers or 'prospectors1' or rather1 if 
known not attended to1 one of  my       

companions1 while rolling in the sand1  
said1 ',give me a tin pan2 why  should  
we not be cooking in gold sand8' ,he    
took a pan1 filled it with  sand1 washed
 it out1 and produced in five minutes   
two or three dollars'  worth of gold1   
merely saying1 as he threw both pan and 
gold on the  sand1 ',i thought so4'     
,perhaps it is fair that your readers   
should  learn1 that1 however plenty the 
,sacramento ,valley may afford gold1 the
  obtaining of it has its disadvantages4
 ,from the #ast of ,july to the #ast  of
 ,october1 more or less1 one half of the
 people will have fever and  ague1 or   
intermittent fever4 ,in the winter1 it  
is too cold to work in  the water4 ,some
 work in the sand by washing from the   
surface in a  wooden bowl1 or tin pan2  
some gouge it out from the rocks or     
slate2 the  more lazy ones roll about   
and pick up the large pieces1 leaving   
the  small gold for the next emigration4
 ,the extent of the gold region on  the 
,san ,joaquin and ,sacramento rivers    

extends a distance of #hjj miles  in    
length by #ajj in width4 ,it embraces   
not only gold1 but quantities of        
quicksilver in almost general abundance4
 ,it is estimated that a small          
population actively engaged in mining   
operations in that region could  export 
#ajj1jjj1jjj dollars in gold in every   
year1 and that an increased  population 
might increase that amount to           
#cjj1jjj1jjj dollars annually4  ,you may
 believe me when ,i say that for some   
time to come ,california  will export1  
yearly1 nearly or quite #ejj1jjj ounces 
of gold1 #bb to #bd  carats fine2 some  
pieces of that will weigh #af lbs41 very
 many #a lb4  ,many men who began last  
,june to dig gold with a capital of #ej 
dollars  can now show #ejjj to #ae1jjj  
dollars4 ,i saw a man to-day making     
purchases of dry goods1 etc41 for his   
family1 lay on the counter a bag  of raw
 hide1 well sewed up1 containing #aji   
ounces4 ,i observed1 ',that is  a good  
way to pack gold dust4' ,he very        

innocently replied1 ',all the  bags ,i  
brought down are that way2 ,i like the  
size6' ,five such bags in  ,new ,york   
would bring nearly #aj1jjj dollars4     
,this man left his family  last ,august4
 ,three months' digging and washing1    
producing four or five  bags1 of #ajj   
ounces each1 is better than being mate  
of a vessel at #dj  dollars per month1  
as the man formerly was4 ,his companion1
 a ,mexican1  who camped and worked with
 him1 only had two or three cow-hide    
bags of  gold4 ,in this tough1 but true1
 golden tale1 you must not imagine that 
all men are equally successful4 ,there  
are some who have done better1  even to 
#djjj dollars in a month2 many #ajjj    
dollars during the summer2  and others1 
who refused to join a company of        
gold-washers who had a  cheap-made      
machine1 and receive one ounce per day1 
that returned to the  settlement with   
not a vest pocket-full of gold4 ,some   
left with only  sufficient to pay for a 
horse and saddle1 and pay the physician 

six  ounces of gold for one ounce of    
quinine1 calomel1 and jalap in          
proportion4 ,an ounce of gold for advice
 given1 six ounces a visit1  brings the 
fever and ague to be rather an expensive
 companion4 ,a 'well'  man has his      
proportionate heavy expenses also1 to   
reduce his piles or  bags of gold4 ,dry 
beef in the settlements1 at #d cents per
 lb41 at the  ,placer1 #a to #b dollars 
per lb42 salt beef and pork1 #ej to #ajj
 dollars  per barrel2 flour1 #cj to #ge 
dollars per barrel2 coffee1 sugar1 and  
rice1 #ej cents to #a dollar per lb4 ,as
 washing is #ej cents to #a dollar a    
garment1 many prefer throwing away their
 used-up clothes to paying the          
washerwoman2 that is1 if they intend    
returning to the settlements soon1      
where they can purchase more4 ,as to    
shaving1 ,i have never seen a man at    
the ,placer who had time to perform that
 operation4 ,they do not work on        
,sundays1 only brush up the tent1 blow  
out the emery or fine black sand  from  

the week's work4 ,horses that can travel
 only one day1 and from  that to a week1
 are from #ajj to #cjj dollars4 ,freight
 charge by launch  owners for three     
days' run1 #e dollars per barrel4       
,wagoners charge #ej to  #ajj dollars   
per load1 #bj to #ej miles1 on good     
road4 ,corn1 barley1 peas1  and beans1  
#aj dollars a-bushel4 ,common pistols1  
any price2 powder and  lead very dear4  
,i know a physician who1 in ,san        
,francisco1 purchased a  common made    
gold-washer at #bj or #cj dollars1 made 
of #gj or #hj feet of  boards4 ,at a    
great expense he boated it up to the    
first landing on the  ,sacramento1 and  
there met a wagoner bound to one of the 
diggings with  an empty wagon1 distant  
about #ej miles4 ,the wagoner would not 
take up  the machine under #ajj dollars4
 ,the doctor had to consent1 and bided  
his  time4 ,june passed over1 rich in   
gold2 all on that creek did wonders1    
when the wagoner fell sick1 called on   
his friend the doctor1 whose tent  was  

in sight2 the doctor came1 but would not
 administer the first dose  under the   
old sum of #ajj dollars1 which was      
agreed to1 under a proviso  that the    
following doses should be furnished more
 moderate4 ,when a  man's time is worth 
#ajj dollars a-day1 to use a spade and  
tin pan1  neither doctors nor wagoners  
can think much of a pound of gold1 and  
you  may suppose merchants1 traders1 and
 pedlars are not slow to make their     
fortunes in these golden times4 ,in ,san
 ,francisco there is more  merchandize  
sold now1 monthly1 than before in a     
year4 ,vessels after  vessels arrive1   
land their cargoes1 dispose of them1 and
 bag up the  dust and lay up the vessel1
 as the crew are soon among the missing4
 ,the  cleanest clear out is where the  
captain follows the crew4 ,there are    
many vessels in ,san ,francisco that    
cannot weigh anchor1 even with the      
assistance of three or four neighbouring
 vessels4 ,supercargoes must  land cargo
 on arriving1 or have no crew to do it  

for them4 ,some vessels  continue to go 
to sea1 with small crews1 at #ej dollars
 per month for  green hands4 ,old hands 
are too wise for them1 and prefer       
digging an  ounce or two a-day1 and     
drinking hock and champagne at half an  
ounce  a-bottle1 and eating bad sea     
bread at #a dollar per pound4 ,i have   
seen a  captain of a vessel1 who1 by his
 old contract in the port whence he     
sailed1 was getting #fj dollars per     
month1 paying his cook #ge dollars1  and
 offering #ajj dollars per month for a  
steward2 his former crew1 even  to his  
mates1 having gone a 'prospecting4'     
,uncle ,sam's ships suffer a  little the
 same way1 although they offer from #bjj
 to #ejj dollars for  the apprehension  
of a deserter4 ,the ,ohio1 however1 laid
 in the port of  ,monterey about a      
month1 and lost only #bj or #cj men4    
,colonel ,stevenson's  regiment is      
disbanded1 #ii out of #ajj of whom have 
also gone 'prospecting1'  including the 
colonel1 who arrived in ,monterey last  

month1 from his  last post1 and was met 
by his men at the edge of the town1 to  
escort  and cheer him into the town4    
,the captains1 etc41 have bought up     
country carts and oxen1 turned drivers1 
and gone to the ,placer4 ,our  worthy   
governor1 ,colonel of the #ast          
,dragoons1 etc41 having plenty of       
carts1 wagons1 horses1 and mules1 with a
 few regulars left1 has also  gone1 but 
under better advantages1 for the second 
or third time1 to see  the ,placer and  
the country1 and have justice done to   
his countrymen or  himself4 ,commodore  
,jones1 lately arrived in ,monterey1    
supposed it to be  the capital1         
head-quarters1 etc41 but found not even 
the ,governor left4  ,where             
head-quarters are may be uncertain1     
whether in ,monterey1 ,sutter's  ,fort1 
or in a four-mule wagon travelling over 
the gold region4 ,now1  whether         
headquarters are freighted with         
munitions of war1 etc41 or  whether the 
cargo consists of blankets1 shirts1     

etc41 to clothe the  suffering ,indians1
 for the paltry consideration of gold1  
no one cares  or knows2 but the         
principle should be1 that1 if privates  
can or will be  off making their        
thousands1 those who are better able    
should not go  goldless4    ,the        
,washington ,union contains a letter    
from ,lieutenant ,larkin1 dated         
,monterey1 ,november #af1 received at   
the ,state ,department1 containing      
further confirmation of the previous    
despatches1 public and private1  and far
 outstripping all other news in its     
exciting character4 ,the gold  was      
increasing in size and quality daily4   
,lumps were found weighing  from one to 
two pounds4 ,several had been heard of  
weighing as high as  #af pounds1 and one
 #be pounds4 ,many men1 who were poor in
 ,june1 were  worth #cj1jjj dollars1 by 
digging and trading with the ,indians4  
#ajj  dollars a-day is the average      
amount realized daily1 from ,july to    
,october4 ,half the diggers were sick   

with fevers1 though not many deaths  had
 occurred among them4 ,the ,indians     
would readily give an ounce of  gold for
 a common calico shirt2 others were     
selling for ten dollars  each in specie4
 ,the gold region extends over a track  
of #cjj miles1 and  it was not known    
that it did not extend #ajjj4 ,a letter 
from ,commodore  ,jones states that many
 of the petty officers and men had      
deserted and  gone in search of the     
gold4 ,he adds1 the ,indians were       
selling gold at  #ej cents the ounce4   
,many vessels were deserted by captain1 
cook1 and  seamen4 ,the ship ,isaac     
,walton offered discharged soldiers #ej 
dollars  per month to go to ,callao1    
which was refused4 ,she was supplied by 
government sailors4 ,all the naval      
vessels on the coast were short of      
hands4 ,nearly the whole of the #crd    
,artillery had deserted4 ,provisions    
were scarce and high2 board1 #d dollars 
a-day2 washing1 #f dollars  a-dozen4    
,merchants' clerks get from #bjjj to    

#cjjj dollars a-year4          ,,chapter
 ,,xviii4      ,route by land           
,outfit1 etc41 and advice to intending  
,emigrants4      ,the route via         
,independence or ,st4 ,joseph1 ,mo41 to 
,fort ,laramie1 ,south  ,pass1 ,fort    
,hall1 the ,sink of ,mary's ,river1     
etc41 etc41 the old route4  ,let no     
emigrant1 carrying his family with him1 
deviate from it1 or  imagine that he can
 find a better road4 ,this road is the  
best that has  yet been discovered1 and 
to the ,bay of ,san ,francisco and the  
,gold  ,region it is much the shortest4 
,the ,indians1 moreover1 on this route1 
have1 up to the present time1 been so   
friendly as to commit no acts of        
hostility on the emigrants4 ,the trail  
is plain and good where there are  no   
physical obstructions1 and the emigrant1
 by taking this route1 will  certainly  
reach his destination in good season and
 without disaster4  ,from our           
information we would most earnestly     
advise all emigrants to  take this      

trail1 without deviation1 if they would 
avoid the fatal  calamities which almost
 invariably have attended those who have
  undertaken to explore new routes4     
,the lightest wagon that can be         
constructed1 of sufficient strength to  
carry #bejj pounds' weight1 is the      
vehicle most desirable4 ,no wagon       
should be loaded over this weight1 or if
 it is1 it will be certain to  stall in 
the muddy sloughs and crossings on the  
prairie in the first  part of the       
journey4 ,this wagon can be hauled by   
three or four yokes of  oxen or six     
mules4 ,oxen are usually employed by the
 emigrants for  hauling their wagons4   
,they travel about #ae miles per day1   
and1 all  things considered1 are perhaps
 equal to mules for this service1       
although they cannot travel so fast4    
,they are1 however1 less expensive1  and
 there is not so much danger of their   
straying and of being stolen  by the    
,indians4    ,pack-mules can only be    
employed by parties of men4 ,it would be

 very  difficult to transport a party of
 women and children on pack-mules1  with
 the provisions1 clothing1 and other    
baggage necessary to their  comfort4 ,a 
party of men1 however1 with pack-mules1 
can make the journey  in less time by   
one month than it can be done in        
wagons--carrying with  them1 however1   
nothing more than their provisions1     
clothing1 and  ammunition4    ,for      
parties of men going out1 it would be   
well to haul their wagons1  provisions1 
etc41 as far as ,fort ,laramie1 or ,fort
 ,hall1 by mules1  carrying with them   
pack-saddles and alforjases1 or large   
saddle-bags1  adapted to the            
pack-saddle1 with ropes for packing1    
etc41 when1 if they  saw proper1 they   
could dispose of their wagons for       
,indian ponies1 and  pack into          
,california1 gaining perhaps two or     
three weeks' time4    ,the provisions   
actually necessary per man are as       
follows3--      #aej lbs4 of flour4     
#aej  do4  bacon4    #be   do4  coffee4 

#cj   do4  sugar4    ,added to these1   
the main items1 there should be a small 
quantity of  rice1 #ej or #ge lbs4 of   
crackers1 dried peaches1 etc41 and a keg
 of  lard1 with salt1 pepper1 etc41 and 
such other luxuries of light weight  as 
the person outfitting chooses to        
purchase4 ,he will think of them  before
 he starts4    ,every man should be     
provided with a good rifle1 and1 if     
convenient1  with a pair of pistols1    
five pounds of powder1 and ten pounds of
 lead4  ,a revolving belt-pistol may be 
found useful4    ,with the wagon1 there 
should be carried such carpenter's tools
 as a  hand-saw1 auger1 gimlet1 chisel1 
shaving-knife1 etc41 an axe1 hammer1    
and hatchet4 ,this last weapon every man
 should have in his belt1 with a        
hunter's or a bowie-knife4    ,from     
,independence to the first settlement in
 ,california1 which is near  the gold   
region1 it is about #bjej miles--to ,san
 ,francisco1 #bbij  miles4    ,the      
accounts that have been received and    

published in regard to the  wealth and  
productiveness of the gold mines1 and   
other mines in  ,california1 are        
undoubtedly true4 ,they are derived from
 the most  authentic and reliable       
sources1 and from individuals whose     
veracity may  be undoubtingly believed4 
,when a young man arrives there1 he must
 turn his attention to whatever  seems  
to promise the largest recompense for   
his labour4 ,it is  impossible in the   
new state of things produced by the late
 discoveries1  and the influx of        
population1 to foresee what this might  
be4 ,the  country is rich in            
agricultural resources1 as well as in   
the precious  metals1 and1 with proper  
enterprise and industry1 he could       
scarcely  fail to do well4    ,families1
 as well as parties going out1 should   
carry with them good  tents1 to be used 
after their arrival as houses4 ,the     
influx of  population will probably be  
so great that it will be difficult1 if  
not  impossible1 to obtain other shelter

 for some time after their arrival4     
,the climate of the country1 however1   
even in winter1 is so mild that1  with  
good tents1 comfort is attainable4 ,they
 should be careful1 also1  to carry as  
much subsistence into the country as    
they can2 as what  they purchase there1 
after their arrival1 they will be       
compelled to pay  a high price for4     
,the shortest route to ,california is   
unquestionably by the ,west ,india      
,mail ,packets1 which leave ,southampton
 on the #agth of every month4 ,the      
point to which they take passengers is  
,chagres4 ,this voyage is usually       
accomplished in about #bb to #bf days4  
,from thence passengers proceed  across 
the ,isthmus1 a distance of about #eb   
miles 7say three or four  days' journey7
 to ,panama1 and thence #cejj miles by  
sea in the ,pacific  to ,st4 ,francisco4
 ,from the vast number of eager         
emigrants that it is  expected will     
assemble at ,panama1 it is very probable
 that great delay  will be occasioned   

from there not being sufficient number  
of vessels to  convey them to their     
destination4 ,unless such adventurers   
are  abundantly supplied with money1    
they will not be able to live in the    
hot desolation of the tropics1 where    
life is but little valued1 and  where   
death is even less regarded4 ,the entire
 route by sea 7round ,cape  ,horn7      
cannot be less than #ah1ejj miles1 and  
generally occupies from  five to six    
months1 yet this route is much cheaper1 
safer1 and in the  end 7from the delay  
that will occur at ,panama7 quite as    
short4 ,this  route1 particularly to    
parties from ,england1 is universally   
allowed to  be the best many1 dangers   
and difficulties that attend the route  
across  the ,isthmus of ,panama 7not    
noticing the probable delay7 will be    
avoided1 and many a one will bitterly   
regret that he was ever induced  to     
attempt 7as he perceives ship after ship
 sailing gallantly on to  these favoured
 regions7 what he considered a shorter  

route1 from the  want of the means of   
transit1 while he is himself compelled  
idly to  waste his time1 a prey to      
pestilence and to the hope deferred that
  maketh the heart sick4                
,,appendix4      ,the following are     
letters addressed to the ,government at 
,washington1  and other communications1 
all of which1 it will be seen1 are fully
  confirmatory of the accounts given in 
the preceding pages2 with other  details
 of interest relative to the state of   
the gold districts3    ,extract from a  
,letter from ,mr4 ,larkin1 ,united      
,states ,consul at  ,monterey1 to ,mr4  
,buchanan1 ,secretary of ,state at      
,washington4    ,san ,francisco 7,upper 
,california71 ,june #a1 #ahdh4    ,sir3 
99 99 99 ,i have to report to the ,state
 ,department one of the most            
astonishing excitements and state of    
affairs now existing in this  country1  
that1 perhaps1 has ever been brought to 
the notice of the  ,government4 ,on the 
,american fork of the ,sacramento and   

,feather ,river1  another branch of the 
same1 and the adjoining lands1 there has
 been  within the present year          
discovered a placer1 a vast tract of    
land  containing gold1 in small         
particles4 ,this gold1 thus far1 has    
been  taken on the bank of the river1   
from the surface to eighteen inches in  
depth1 and is supposed deeper1 and to   
extend over the country4    ,on account 
of the inconvenience of washing1 the    
people have1 up to  this time1 only     
gathered the metal on the banks1 which  
is done simply  with a shovel1 filling a
 shallow dish1 bowl1 basket1 or tin pan1
 with a  quantity of black sand1 similar
 to the class used on paper1 and washing
  out the sand by movement of the       
vessel4 ,it is now two or three weeks   
since the men employed in those washings
 have appeared in this town  with gold1 
to exchange for merchandise and         
provisions4 ,i presume nearly  #bj1jjj  
dollars of this gold has as yet been so 
exchanged4 ,some #bjj or  #cjj men have 

remained up the river1 or are gone to   
their homes1 for the  purpose of        
returning to the ,placer1 and washing   
immediately with  shovels1 picks1 and   
baskets2 many of them1 for the first few
 weeks1  depending on borrowing from    
others4 ,i have seen the written        
statement  of the work of one man for   
sixteen days1 which averaged #be dollars
 per  day2 others have1 with a shovel   
and pan1 or wooden bowl1 washed out #aj 
dollars to even #ej dollars in a day4   
,there are now some men yet washing  who
 have #ejj dollars to #a1jjj dollars4   
,as they have to stand two feet  deep in
 the river1 they work but a few hours in
 the day1 and not every  day in the     
week4    ,a few men have been down in   
boats to this port1 spending twenty to  
thirty ounces of gold each--about #cjj  
dollars4 ,i am confident that this  town
 7,san ,francisco7 has one-half of its  
tenements empty1 locked up  with the    
furniture4 ,the owners--storekeepers1   
lawyers1 mechanics1 and  labourers--all 

gone to the ,sacramento with their      
families4 ,small  parties1 of five to   
fifteen men1 have sent to this town and 
offered  cooks ten to fifteen dollars   
per day for a few weeks4 ,mechanics and 
teamsters1 earning the year past five to
 eight dollars per day1 have  struck and
 gone4 ,several ,u4,s4 volunteers have  
deserted4 ,u4,s4 barque  ,anita1        
belonging to the ,army1 now at anchor   
here1 has but six men4 ,one  ,sandwich  
,island vessel in port lost all her men2
 and was obliged to  engaged another    
crew at #ej dollars for the run of      
fifteen days to the  ,islands4    ,one  
,american captain having his men shipped
 on this coast in such a  manner that   
they could leave at any time1 had them  
all on the eve of  quitting1 when he    
agreed to continue their pay and food2  
leaving one on  board1 he took a boat   
and carried them to the gold            
regions--furnishing  tools and giving   
his men one-third4 ,they have been gone 
a week4 ,common  spades and shovels1 one

 month ago worth #a dollar1 will now    
bring #aj  dollars1 at the gold regions4
 ,i am informed #ej dollars has been    
offered  for one4 ,should this gold     
continue as represented1 this town and  
others  would be depopulated4 ,clerks'  
wages have risen from #fjj dollars to   
#ajjj  per annum1 and board2 cooks1 #be 
dollars to #cj dollars per month4 ,this 
sum will not be any inducement a month  
longer1 unless the fever and  ague      
appears among the washers4 ,the         
,californian1 printed here1  stopped    
this week4 ,the ,star newspaper office1 
where the new laws of  ,governor ,mason1
 for this country1 are printing1 has but
 one man left4 ,a  merchant1 lately from
 ,china1 has even lost his ,china       
servants4 ,should  the excitement       
continue through the year1 and the      
whale-ships visit ,san  ,francisco1 ,i  
think they will lose most all their     
crews4 ,how ,col4 ,mason  can retain his
 men1 unless he puts a force on the     
spot1 ,i know not4    ,i have seen      

several pounds of this gold1 and        
consider it very pure1  worth in ,new   
,york #ag dollars to #ah dollars per    
ounce2 #ad dollars to #af  dollars1 in  
merchandise1 is paid for it here4 ,what 
good or bad effect  this gold mania will
 have on ,california1 ,i cannot         
foretell4 ,it may end  this year2 but ,i
 am informed that it will continue many 
years4  ,mechanics now in this town are 
only wailing to finish some rude        
machinery1 to enable them to obtain the 
gold more expeditiously1 and  free from 
working in the river4 ,up to this time1 
but few ,californians  have gone to the 
mines1 being afraid the ,americans will 
soon have  trouble among themselves1 and
 cause disturbance to all around4 ,i    
have  seen some of the black sand1 as   
taken from the bottom of the river 7,i  
should think in the ,states it would    
bring #be to #ej cents per pound71      
containing many pieces of gold2 they are
 from the size of the head of a  pin to 
the weight of the eighth of an ounce4 ,i

 have seen some weighing  one-quarter of
 an ounce 7#d dollars74 ,although my    
statements are almost  incredible1 ,i   
believe ,i am within the statements     
believed by every one  here4 ,ten days  
back1 the excitement had not reached    
,monterey4 ,i shall1  within a few days1
 visit this gold mine1 and will make    
another report  to you4 ,inclosed you   
will have a specimen4    ,i have the    
honour to be1 very respectfully1        
,,thomas ,o4 ,,larkin4    ,p4,s4 ,this  
placer1 or gold region1 is situated on  
public land4      ,mr4 ,larkin to ,mr4  
,buchanan4    ,monterey1 ,california1   
,june #bh1 #ahdh4    ,,sir3 ,my last    
dispatch to the ,state ,department was  
written in ,san  ,francisco1 the #ast of
 this month4 ,in that ,i had the honour 
to give some  information respecting the
 new 'placer1' or gold regions lately   
discovered on the branches of the       
,sacramento ,river4 ,since the writing  
of that dispatch ,i have visited a part 
of the gold region1 and found it  all ,i

 had heard1 and much more than ,i       
anticipated4 ,the part that ,i  visited 
was upon a fork of the ,american ,river1
 a branch of the  ,sacramento1 joining  
the main river at ,sutter's ,fort4 ,the 
place in which  ,i found the people     
digging was about twenty-five miles from
 the fort by  land4    ,i have reason to
 believe that gold will be found on many
 branches of  the ,sacramento and the   
,joaquin rivers4 ,people are already    
scattered  over one hundred miles of    
land1 and it is supposed that the       
'placer'  extends from river to river4  
,at present the workmen are employed    
within  ten or twenty yards of the      
river1 that they may be convenient to   
water4  ,on ,feather river there are    
several branches upon which the people  
are  digging for gold4 ,this is two or  
three days' ride from the place ,i      
visited4    ,at my camping place ,i     
found1 on a surface of two or three     
miles on the  banks of the river1 some  
fifty tents1 mostly owned by ,americans4

 ,these  had their families4 ,there are 
no ,californians who have taken their   
families as yet to the gold regions2 but
 few or none will ever do it2  some from
 ,new ,mexico may do so next year1 but  
no ,californians4    ,i was two nights  
at a tent occupied by eight ,americans1 
viz41 two  sailors1 one clerk1 two      
carpenters1 and three daily workmen4    
,these men  were in company2 had two    
machines1 each made from one hundred    
feet of  boards 7worth there #aej       
dollars1 in ,monterey #ae dollars--being
 one  day's work71 made similar to a    
child's cradle1 ten feet long1 without  
the ends4    ,the two evenings ,i saw   
these eight men bring to their tents the
 labour  of the day4 ,i suppose they    
made each #ej dollars per day2 their own
  calculation was two pounds of gold    
a-day--four ounces to a man--#fd        
dollars4 ,i saw two brothers that worked
 together1 and only worked by  washing  
the dirt in a tin pan1 weigh the gold   
they obtained in one day2  the result   

was #g dollars to one1 #hb dollars to   
the other4 ,there were  two reasons for 
this difference2 one man worked less    
hours than the  other1 and by chance had
 ground less impregnated with gold4 ,i  
give this  statement as an extreme case4
 ,during my visit ,i was an interpreter 
for  a native of ,monterey1 who was     
purchasing a machine or canoe4 ,i first 
tried to purchase boards and hire a     
carpenter for him4 ,there were but a    
few hundred feet of boards to be had2   
for these the owner asked me #ej        
dollars per hundred 7#ejj dollars per   
thousand71 and a carpenter washing  gold
 dust demanded #ej dollars per day for  
working4 ,i at last purchased  a log dug
 out1 with a riddle and sieve made of   
willow boughs on it1 for  #abj dollars1 
payable in gold dust at #ad dollars per 
ounce4 ,the owner  excused himself for  
the price1 by saying he was two days    
making it1 and  even then demanded the  
use of it until sunset4 ,my ,californian
 has told  me since1 that himself1      

partner1 and two ,indians1 obtained with
 this  canoe eight ounces the first and 
five ounces the second day4    ,i am of 
the opinion that on the ,american fork1 
,feather ,river1 and  ,copimes ,river1  
there are near two thousand people1     
nine-tenths of them  foreigners4        
,perhaps there are one hundred families1
 who have their  teams1 wagons1 and     
tents4 ,many persons are waiting to see 
whether the  months of ,july and ,august
 will be sickly1 before they leave their
  present business to go to the         
',placer4' ,the discovery of this gold  
was  made by some ,mormons1 in ,january 
or ,february1 who for a time kept it a  
secret2 the majority of those who are   
working there began in ,may4 ,in  most  
every instance the men1 after digging a 
few days1 have been  compelled to leave 
for the purpose of returning home to see
 their  families1 arrange their         
business1 and purchase provisions4 ,i   
feel  confident in saying there are     
fifty men in this ',placer' who have on 

an  average #a1jjj dollars each1        
obtained in ,may and ,june4 ,i have not 
met  with any person who had been fully 
employed in washing gold one month2     
most1 however1 appear to have averaged  
an ounce per day4 ,i think there  must1 
by this time1 be over #a1jjj men at work
 upon the different  branches of the    
,sacramento2 putting their gains at     
#aj1jjj dollars per  day1 for six days  
in the week1 appears to me not          
overrated4    ,should this news reach   
the emigration of ,california and       
,oregon1 now on  the road1 connected    
with the ,indian wars1 now impoverishing
 the latter  country1 we should have a  
large addition to our population2 and   
should  the richness of the gold region 
continue1 our emigration in #ahdi will  
be many thousands1 and in #ahej still   
more4 ,if our countrymen in             
,california1 as clerks1 mechanics1 and  
workmen1 will forsake employment  at    
from #b dollars to #f dollars per day1  
how many more of the same class  in the 

,atlantic ,states1 earning much less1   
will leave for this country  under such 
prospects8 ,it is the opinion of many   
who have visited the  gold regions the  
past and present months1 that the ground
 will afford  gold for many years1      
perhaps for a century4 ,from my own     
examination of  the rivers and their    
banks1 ,i am of opinion that1 at least  
for a few  years1 the golden products   
will equal the present year4 ,however1  
as  neither men of science1 nor the     
labourers now at work1 have made any    
explorations of consequence1 it is a    
matter of impossibility to give  any    
opinion as to the extent and richness of
 this part of ,california4  ,every      
,mexican who has seen the place says    
throughout their ,republic  there has   
never been any 'placer like this one4'  
,could ,mr4 ,polk and yourself see      
,california as we now see it1 you would 
think that a few thousand people1 on    
#ajj miles square of the ,sacramento    
valley1 would yearly turn out of this   

river the whole price our country  pays 
for the acquired territory4 ,when ,i    
finished my first letter ,i  doubted my 
own writing1 and1 to be better          
satisfied1 showed it to one  of the     
principal merchants of ,san ,francisco1 
and to ,captain ,fulsom1 of  the        
,quartermaster's ,department1 who       
decided at once ,i was far below the    
reality4 ,you certainly will suppose1   
from my two letters1 that ,i am1  like  
others1 led away by the excitement of   
the day4 ,i think ,i am not4  ,in my    
last ,i inclosed a small sample of the  
gold dust1 and ,i find my  only error   
was in putting a value to the sand4 ,at 
that time ,i was not  aware how the gold
 was found2 ,i now can describe the mode
 of collecting  it4    ,a person without
 a machine1 after digging off one or two
 feet of the  upper ground1 near the    
water 7in some cases they take the top  
earth71  throws into a tin pan or wooden
 bowl a shovel full of loose dirt and   
stones2 then placing the basin an inch  

or two under water1 continues to  stir  
up the dirt with his hand in such a     
manner that the running water  will     
carry off the light earths1             
occasionally1 with his hand1 throwing   
out the stones2 after an operation of   
this kind for twenty or thirty  minutes1
 a spoonful of small black sand remains2
 this is on a  handkerchief or cloth    
dried in the sun1 the emerge is blown   
off1  leaving the pure gold4 ,i have the
 pleasure of inclosing a paper of this  
sand and gold1 which ,i from a bucket of
 dirt and stones1 in  half-an-hour1     
standing at the edge of the water1      
washed out myself4 ,the  value of it may
 be #b dollars or #c dollars4    ,the   
size of the gold depends in some measure
 upon the river from which  it is taken2
 the banks of one river having larger   
grains of gold than  another4 ,i presume
 more than one half of the gold put into
 pans or  machines is washed out and    
goes down the stream2 this is of no     
consequence to the washers1 who care    

only for the present time4 ,some  have  
formed companies of four or five men1   
and have a rough-made  machine put      
together in a day1 which worked to much 
advantage1 yet many  prefer to work     
alone1 with a wooden bowl or tin pan1   
worth fifteen or  twenty cents in the   
,states1 but eight to sixteen dollars at
 the gold  region4 ,as the workmen      
continue1 and materials can be obtained1
  improvements will take place in the   
mode of obtaining gold2 at present  it  
is obtained by standing in the water1   
and with much severe labour1  or such as
 is called here severe labour4    ,how  
long this gathering of gold by the      
handful will continue here1 or  the     
future effect it will have on           
,california1 ,i cannot say4             
,three-fourths of the houses in the town
 on the bay of ,san ,francisco are      
deserted4 ,houses are sold at the price 
of the ground lots4 ,the effects  are   
this week showing themselves in         
,monterey4 ,almost every house ,i had   

hired out is given up4 ,every           
blacksmith1 carpenter1 and lawyer is    
leaving2 brick-yards1 saw-mills and     
ranches are left perfectly alone4 ,a    
large number of the volunteers at ,san  
,francisco and ,sonoma have  deserted2  
some have been retaken and brought back2
 public and private  vessels are losing 
their crews2 my clerks have had #ajj per
 cent4  advance offered them on their   
wages to accept employment4 ,a complete 
revolution in the ordinary state of     
affairs is taking place2 both of  our   
newspapers are discontinued from want of
 workmen and the loss of  their         
agencies2 the ,alcaldes have left ,san  
,francisco1 and ,i believe  ,sonoma     
likewise2 the former place has not a    
,justice of the ,peace left4    ,the    
second ,alcalde of ,monterey to-day     
joins the keepers of our  principal     
hotel1 who have closed their office and 
house1 and will leave  to-morrow for the
 golden rivers4 ,i saw on the ground a  
lawyer who was  last year               

,attorney-,general of the ,king of the  
,sandwich ,islands1 digging  and washing
 out his ounce and a half per day2 near 
him can be found  most all his brethren 
of the long robe1 working in the same   
occupation4    ,to conclude2 my letter  
is long1 but ,i could not well describe 
what ,i  have seen in less words1 and ,i
 now can believe that my account may be 
doubted4 ,if the affair proves a bubble1
 a mere excitement1 ,i know not  how we 
can all be deceived1 as we are situated4
 ,governor ,mason and his  staff have   
left ,monterey to visit the place in    
question1 and will1 ,i  suppose1 soon   
forward to his department his views and 
opinions on this  subject4 ,most of the 
land1 where gold has been discovered1 is
 public  land2 there are on different   
rivers some private grants4 ,i have     
three  such purchased in #ahdf and      
#ahdg1 but have not learned that any    
private  lands have produced gold1      
though they may hereafter do so4 ,i have
 the  honour1 dear sir1 to be1 very     

respectfully1 your obedient servant1    
,,thomas ,o4 ,,larkin4      ,,desertion 
,,from ,,the ,,ships4--,we collate from 
other sources several other  interesting
 letters and documents1 and which will  
be found well worth  perusal4           
,monterey1 ,sept4 #ae1 #ahdh4           
,messrs4 ,grinnell1 ,minturn1 and ,co43 
,sirs--,i embrace this opportunity to   
inform you of my new situation1  which  
is bad enough4 ,all hands have left me  
but two2 they will stay  till the cargo 
is landed and ballast in1 then they will
 go4 ,both mates  will leave in a few   
days1 and then ,i will have only the two
 boys1 and ,i  am fearful that they will
 run4 ,i have got all landed but #ijj   
barrels2  on ,monday ,i shall get off   
ballast if the weather is good4 ,there's
 no  help to be got at any price4 ,the  
store-ship that sailed from here ten    
days ago took three of my men at #ajj   
dollars per month2 there is  nothing    
that anchors here but what loses their  
men4 ,i have had a hard  time in landing

 the cargo2 ,i go in the boat every     
load4 ,if ,i can get it  on shore ,i    
shall save the freight4 ,as for the ship
 she will lay here  for a long time1 for
 there's not the least chance of getting
 a crew4  ,the coasters are giving #ajj 
dollars per month4 ,all the ships at    
,san  ,francisco have stripped and laid 
up4 ,the ,flora1 of ,new ,london1 is at 
,san ,francisco2 all left4 ,you probably
 have heard of the situation of  things 
here4 ,a sailor will be up at the mines 
for two months1 work on  his own        
account1 and come down with from two to 
three thousand dollars1  and those that 
go in parties do much better4 ,i have   
been offered #bj  dollars per day to go1
 by one of the first men here1 and work 
one year4  ,it is impossible for me to  
give you any idea of the gold that is   
got  here4 ,yours respectfully1         
,,christopher ,,allen1  ,captain of the 
ship ,isaac ,walton4      ,another      
letter dated ,st4 ,francisco1 ,september
 #ast1 contains the  following3--    ,a 

day or two ago the ,flora1 ,captain     
,potter1 of ,new ,london1 anchored in   
,whaleman's ,harbour1 on the opposite   
side of the ,bay4 ,yesterday the        
captain1 fearing he would lose all his  
men1 weighed anchor1 intending  to go to
 sea4 ,after getting under weigh1 the   
crew1 finding the ship was  heading out1
 refused to do duty1 and the captain was
 forced to return  and anchor here4     
,last night nine of the crew gagged the 
watch1 lowered  one of the boats1 and   
rowed off4 ,they have not been heard of 
since1 and  are now probably half way to
 the gold region4 ,the ,flora is        
twenty-six  months out1 with only #gej  
bbls4 of oil4 ,every vessel that comes  
in here  now is sure to lose her crew1  
and this state of things must continue  
until the squadron arrives1 when1 if the
 men-o'-war-men do not run off  too1    
merchant-men may retain their crews4    
,the whale-ship ,euphrates1 of ,new     
,bedford1 left here a few weeks since1  
for the ,united ,states1 to touch on the

 coast of ,chili to recruit4 ,the       
,minerva1 ,captain ,perry1 of ,new      
,bedford1 has abandoned the whaling     
business1 and is now on his way hence to
 ,valparaiso for a cargo of             
merchandise4 ,although two large ships1 
four barks1 and eight or ten  brigs and 
schooners have arrived here since my    
return from the mineral  country1 about 
four weeks since1 with large cargoes of 
merchandise1  their entire invoices have
 been sold4 ,vessels are daily arriving 
from  the islands and ports upon the    
coast1 laden with goods and passengers1 
the latter destined for the             
gold-washings4    ,much sickness        
prevails among the gold-diggers2 many   
have left the  ground sick1 and many    
more have discontinued their labours for
 the  present1 and gone into more       
healthy portions of the country1        
intending  to return after the sickly   
season has passed4 ,from the best       
information  ,i can obtain1 there are   
from two to three thousand persons at   

work at  the gold-washings with the same
 success as heretofore4      ,,the      
,,diggings4--,extract of a letter from  
,monterey1 ,aug4 #bi4    ,at present the
 people are running over the country and
 picking it out  of the earth here and  
there1 just as a thousand hogs1 let     
loose in a  forest1 would root up       
ground-nuts4 ,some get eight or ten     
ounces a-day1  and the least active one 
or two4 ,they make the most who employ  
the wild  ,indians to hunt it for them4 
,there is one man who has sixty ,indians
 in  his employ2 his profits are a      
dollar a-minute4 ,the wild ,indians know
  nothing of its value1 and wonder what 
the pale-faces want to do with  it2 they
 will give an ounce of it for the same  
weight of coined silver1  or a          
thimbleful of glass beads1 or a glass of
 grog4 ,and white men  themselves often 
give an ounce of it1 which is worth at  
our mint #ah  dollars1 or more1 for a   
bottle of brandy1 a bottle of           
soda-powders1 or  a plug of tobacco4    

,as to the quantity which the diggers   
get1 take a few facts as  evidence4 ,i  
know seven men who worked seven weeks   
and two days1 ,sundays  excepted1 on    
,feather ,river2 they employed on an    
average fifty ,indians1  and got out in 
these seven weeks and two days #bge     
pounds of pure gold4  ,i know the men1  
and have seen the gold1 and know what   
they state to be  a fact--so stick a pin
 there4 ,i know ten other men who worked
 ten days  in company1 employed no      
,indians1 and averaged in these ten days
 #aejj  dollars each2 so stick another  
pin there4 ,i know another man who got  
out of a basin in a rock1 not larger    
than a wash-bowl1 two pounds and a  half
 of gold in fifteen minutes2 so stick   
another pin there6 ,not one of  these   
statements would ,i believe1 did ,i not 
know the men personally1  and know them 
to be plain matter-of-fact men--men who 
open a vein of  gold just as coolly as  
you would a potato-hill4      ,,assay   
,,of ,,the ,,gold4--,lieutenant ,loeser 

having arrived at ,washington with      
specimens of the gold from the diggings1
 the following account of its  quality  
appeared in the ,washington ,union1 the 
government organ3--    ,understanding   
last evening that the lieutenant had    
arrived in this  city1 and had deposited
 in the ,war ,office the precious       
specimens he had  brought with him1 we  
called to see them1 and to free our mind
 from all  hesitation as to the         
genuineness of the metal4 ,we had seen  
doubts  expressed in some of our        
exchange papers2 and we readily admit   
that the  accounts so nearly approached 
the miraculous1 that we were relieved by
  the evidence of our own senses on the 
subject4 ,the specimens have all  the   
appearance of the native gold we had    
seen from the mines of ,north  ,carolina
 and ,virginia1 and we are informed that
 the ,secretary would  send the small   
chest1 called a caddy1 containing about 
#c1jjj dollars'  worth of gold1 in lumps
 and scales1 to the mint1 to be melted  

into  coins and bars4 ,the specimens    
have come to ,washington as they were   
extracted from the materials of the     
placer4 ,the heaviest piece brought  by 
,lieutenant ,loeser weighs a little more
 than two ounces2 but the  varied       
contents of the casket 7as described in 
,colonel ,mason's  schedule7 will be    
sent off to-day1 by special messenger1  
to the mint at  ,philadelphia for assay1
 and early next week we hope to have the
  pleasure of laying the result before  
our readers4 ,the assay was             
subsequently made1 and the result       
officially announced4 ,the gold is      
declared to be from #c to #h per cent4  
purer than ,american standard gold      
coin4      ,,another ,,assay4--,the     
following is the report of an assay of  
,californian  gold dust1 received by    
,mr4 ,t4,o4 ,larkin1 ,united ,states    
consul at  ,monterey4    ,new ,york1    
,dec4 #h1 #ahdh4    ,sir1--,i have      
assayed the portion of gold dust1 or    
metal1 from  ,california1 which you sent

 me1 and the result shows that it is    
fully  equal to any found in our        
,southern gold mines4 ,i return you     
#aj-c_/d  grains out of the #ab which ,i
 have tested1 the value of which is #de 
cents4 ,it is #ba-a_/b carats           
fine--within half a carat of the quality
 of  ,english sovereigns or ,american   
eagles--and is almost ready to go to the
  mint4 ,the finest gold metal we get is
 from ,africa1 which is #bb-a_/b to  #bc
 carats fine4 ,in ,virginia we have     
mines where the quality of the gold  is 
much inferior--some of it so low as #ai 
carats--and in ,georgia the  mines      
produce it nearly #bb carats fine4 ,the 
gold of ,california1 which ,i  have now 
assayed1 is fully equal to that of any1 
and much superior to  some produced from
 the mines in our ,southern ,states4    
,,john ,,warwick1  ,smelter and refiner1
 #ag1 ,john-,street4                    
,,inconveniences ,,of ,,too ,,much      
,,gold4--,the following letter 7,january
 #ab7  from ,captain ,fulsom1 of the    

,united ,states ,service1 writing from  
,san  ,francisco1 confirms the fact of  
the difficulty of procuring servants1   
or indeed manual assistance of any      
description3--    ,all sorts of labour  
is got at enormous rates of             
compensation4 ,common  clerks and       
salesmen in the stores about town often 
receive as high as  #bejj dollars and   
their board4 ,the principal waiter in   
the hotel where ,i  board is paid #agjj 
dollars per year1 and several others    
from #abjj to  #aejj dollars6 ,i        
fortunately have an ,indian boy1 or ,i  
should be forced  to clean my own boots1
 for ,i could not employ a good body    
servant for  the full amount of my      
salary as a government officer4 ,i      
believe every  army officer in          
,california1 with one or two exceptions1
 would have  resigned last summer could 
they have done it1 and been free at once
 to  commence for themselves4 ,but the  
war was not then terminated1 and no  one
 could hope to communicate with         

,washington correspondents1 to get an   
answer in less than six1 and perhaps    
ten1 months4 ,for some time last  summer
 7,august and ,july7 the officers at    
,monterey were entirely without         
servants2 and the governor 7,colonel    
,mason7 actually took his turn in       
cooking for his mess4      ,,effects    
,,of ,,this ,,discovery ,,on ,,the      
,,united ,,states4--,the following      
remarks  upon the influence of this     
immense discovery1 which appeared in a  
popular ,new ,york journal on the #bcrd 
,january1 proves the extent of          
impression produced upon society in the 
,states by the intelligence of  this new
 source of natural wealth3--    ,the    
news 7,february #ab7 from ,california   
will attract the observation of  the    
whole community1 ,a spirit is generated 
from those discoveries1  which is more  
active1 more intense1 and more widely   
spread1 than that  which agitated       
,europe in the time of ,columbus1       
,cortez1 and ,pizarro4  ,there seems to 

be no doubt that1 in a short            
time--probably less than  two           
years--those mines can be made to       
produce #ajj1jjj1jjj dollars per  year4 
,the region is the most extensive of the
 kind in the world1 being  #hjj miles in
 length1 and #ajj in width1 with every  
indication that gold  exists in large   
native masses1 in the rocks and         
mountains of the ,sierra  ,nevada4 ,but 
these vast gold mines are not the only  
mineral discoveries  that have been     
made4 ,the quicksilver in the same      
region seems to be as  abundant as the  
gold1 so that there are approximated to 
each other two  metals1 which will have 
a most important effect and utility in  
making  the gold mines more valuable4   
,heretofore the gold and silver mines of
  ,mexico and ,peru have been valuable  
to ,spain1 because she possessed a      
monopoly of the quicksilver mines at    
,almaden in the ,peninsula4 ,this is    
surpassed by ,california4 ,according to 
the last accounts now given to  the     

public1 emigrants were crowding in from 
every port in the ,pacific  to          
,california--from ,mexico1 ,peru1 the   
,sandwich ,islands1 ,oregon2 and we     
have no doubt by this time the ,british 
possessions in the ,east1 ,china1  and  
everywhere else in that region1 are     
furnishing emigrants to the  wonderful  
regions of ,california4 ,in less than a 
year there will  probably be a          
population of #ajj1jjj to #bjj1jjj      
souls1 all digging for  gold1 and       
capable of producing from #ajj1jjj1jjj  
dollars to #cjj1jjj1jjj  dollars worth  
per annum of pure gold1 to be thrown on 
the commerce of  the world at one fell  
swoop4    ,what is to be the effect of  
such vast discoveries on the commerce of
  the world--on old communities1 on ,new
 ,york1 ,london1 and other great        
commercial cities8 ,such a vast addition
 to the gold currency of the  world will
 at once disturb the prices and value of
 all productions and  merchandise to a  
similar extent to that which we see in  

,monterey and  ,san ,francisco4 ,the    
prices of every commodity will therefore
 rise  extravagantly during the next few
 years1 according to the produce of     
gold from that region4 ,now1 in a rising
 market everything prospers2  every one 
gets rich1 civilisation expands1        
industry increases1 and all  orders of  
society are benefited4 ,as soon as the  
first crop of gold from  ,california    
reaches ,new ,york1 the impulse which it
 will give to  commercial enterprise1   
and the advance in the price of         
everything which  it will cause1 will be
 tremendous4 ,the bank currency will be 
expanded1  for the basis will be        
abundant2 real estate will increase in  
value1  agricultural productions and    
agricultural labour will advance at once
  #aj1 #ae1 #bj1 #cj1 or #dj per cent41 
even to as great an extent1 perhaps1  as
 was witnessed when the demand came from
 ,ireland for the food of this  country 
to feed the starving ,irish4 ,new ,york 
and her sister cities will  be the      

centre of all those revolutionary       
movements which are certain to  spring  
from the gold productions of            
,california1 on the commerce of the     
whole civilized world4 ,ship-building   
will increase in value1  steam-boats    
will be wanted1 the railroads projected 
across the ,isthmus  in various places1 
in ,mexico and ,central ,america will be
 pushed to  completion1 and we should   
not be surprised to see an active       
attempt  made1 under the auspices of the
 ,federal ,government1 to construct a   
railroad across the continent1 through  
the ,south ,pass1 from ,st4 ,louis1  or 
some other point on the ,mississippi1 to
 ,san ,francisco4 ,the discovery  of    
these great gold mines will no doubt    
form the agent of the greatest          
revolution in the commercial centres of 
the world and on the  civilisation of   
the human race that has ever taken place
 since the  first dawn of history4 ,new 
,york will henceforth1 from its position
 to  the ,pacific and ,atlantic ,oceans1

 probably in less than a quarter of a   
century1 present a population greater   
than that of ,paris1 and display        
evidences of wealth1 grandeur1          
magnificence1 and industry1 in an equal 
if not greater degree than what we see  
in ,london at this day4 ,we expect      
that1 in the next twenty-five years1 we 
shall make as rapid a march in  this    
metropolis1 and in the neighbouring     
cities1 as any city has done  during the
 last twenty-five centuries4 ,there is  
no necessity for all  going to          
,california4 ,those who remain1 and will
 raise produce1  manufacture goods1     
build ships1 construct steam-engines1   
and advance  the ,fine ,arts1 will enjoy
 the benefits of those discoveries to as
 great  an extent as those who go to the
 ,sacramento to dig for gold4 ,all the  
results of the labours of those diggers 
must come to this metropolis1  swell its
 magnificence1 and increase the         
intensity of its action in  commercial  
affairs4 ,even in a political point of  

view the discovery of  these wonderful  
gold mines in ,california1 under the    
,government of the  ,united ,states1    
will have a wonderful and astounding    
effect4 ,we should  not be surprised to 
see1 in a short time1 all the old       
provinces of  ,mexico1 as far as the    
,isthmus of ,darien1 knocking for       
admission into  this union2 while1 on   
the other side1 the ,british provinces  
of ,canada1  and even the ,spanish      
island of ,cuba1 may be begging and     
praying to be  let in at the same time1 
and be permitted to enjoy some of the   
vast  advantages1 and participate a     
little in the energy1 which this vast   
confederacy will exhibit to the         
astonished world4      ,,disorders ,,in 
,,the ,,gold ,,district4--,up to the    
close of the year the  accounts were    
with few exceptions favourable to the   
morals and habits  of the masses of     
adventurers congregated on the banks of 
the ,san  ,francisco and the vicinity2  
subsequently the statements on these    

points  began to change1 and every      
letter noticed some robbery or murder1  
generally both1 as of frequent          
occurrence1 and at length they became so
  common that there was neither         
protection for life nor property4 ,the  
following ominous intelligence1 which   
appeared in the ,washington  ,union 7the
 organ of government71 created an       
immense sensation4 ,it was  the         
substance of a letter from ,san         
,francisco1 dated the end of  ,december1
 addressed to ,commodore ,jones4 ,this  
letter 7according to the  ,union7       
presents a desperate state of affairs as
 existing in  ,california4 ,everything  
is getting worse as regards order and   
government4 ,murders and robberies were 
not only daily events1 but  occurring   
hourly4 ,within six days more than      
twenty murders had been  perpetrated4   
,the people were preparing to organise a
 provisional  government in order to put
 a stop to these outrages4 ,within five 
days  three men have been hung by ,lynch

 ,law4 ,the ,united ,states revenue laws
  are now in force1 and will yield      
#djj1jjj dollars the first year4 ,the   
inhabitants are opposed to paying taxes4
      ,,latest ,,accounts 7from the ,new
 ,york ,press47--,the desperate state of
  affairs in ,california is fully       
confirmed4 ,murders and robberies were  
occurring daily4 ,the following are     
particulars supplied by ,lieutenant     
,lanman1 of the ,united ,states navy1   
who had returned to ,new ,york1 after   
having acted for a year past as         
collector at ,monterey3--    ,only about
 an hour before he left1 he saw a man on
 board the  flag-ship1 just arrived from
 the mines1 who confirmed the previous  
reports in regard to the discoveries on 
the river ,staneslow1 where he  had seen
 a single lump of gold weighing nine    
pounds1 and heard of one  that weighed  
twenty pounds4 ,the gold excitement in  
,monterey had  entirely abated1 the     
immense mineral wealth of the country   
being looked  upon as an established    

fact4 ,there was no disposition 7except 
among the  landholders7 to exaggerate4  
,for a year past ,lieutenant ,lanman has
 been  performing the duties of         
collector at the port of ,monterey2 and1
 having  seen every man who had returned
 from a visit to the mines1 his         
opportunities for obtaining authentic   
information were better than if  he had 
visited the mines in person4 ,he informs
 us that no large  amounts of gold dust 
or ore were selling at a sacrifice2 he  
does not  believe that one hundred      
ounces of the gold dust could have been 
purchased at the reported rate of eight 
dollars1 the ordinary prices  ranging   
from ten to twelve dollars per ounce4   
,the weekly receipts of  gold at ,san   
,francisco were estimated at from thirty
 to fifty thousand  dollars1 and        
,lieutenant ,lanman knew of one         
individual who had in his  possession   
thirty thousand dollars' worth of pure  
ore and dust4 ,the  current value of    
gold in trade was sixteen dollars per   

ounce4 ,there was  a scarcity of coin   
throughout the country2 but when        
,lieutenant ,lanman  arrived at ,panama1
 he was informed that #fjj1jjj dollars  
had just been  shipped for ,california  
by certain ,mexican gentlemen1 and that 
the  ,american consul at ,paita 7,mr4   
,ruden7 had in charge coin of the value 
of  #aah1jjj dollars1 which he intends  
to exchange for ore and dust4 ,peru  and
 ,chili are not behind the ,united      
,states in regard to the gold           
excitement1 no less than twenty vessels 
having sailed from these two  countries 
within a short time bound to ,san       
,francisco4 ,they were all  well laden  
with provisions and other necessaries of
 life1 and their  arrival would probably
 reduce the prices1 which have          
heretofore been so  exorbitant4 ,the    
whole amount of gold collected at the   
washings since  the excitement first    
broke out is variously estimated--some  
put it down  as high as #d1jjj1jjj of   
dollars1 but this ,i think is a little  

too  high4    ,a private letter says the
 produce of a vineyard of #a1jjj vines  
brought  #a1bjj dollars2 the vegetables 
of a garden of one acre1 near ,san      
,francisco1 #a1ejj dollars4 ,a          
snow-storm had covered the              
gold-diggings1  and the people were     
leaving1 on account of sickness1        
intending to  return in the spring1     
which is said to be the best season for 
the gold  harvest4 ,labourers1 according
 to one letter-writer1 demanded a dollar
  an hour6 ,adventurers continued to    
arrive at ,san ,francisco from all      
parts of the world2 and several persons1
 who were reported to be laden  down    
with gold1 were anxious to return to the
 ,united ,states1 but could  not very   
readily find a conveyance1 as the       
sailors deserted the ships  immediately 
on their arrival in port4               
,,californian ,,gold #bej ,,years       
,,ago4--,pinkerton1 in an account of    
,drake's  discovery of a part of        
,california1 to which he gave the name  

of ,new  ,albion1 states3--,the country1
 too1 if we can depend upon what ,sir   
,francis ,drake or his chaplain say1 may
 appear worth the seeking and the       
keeping1 since they assert that the land
 is so rich in gold and  silver1 that   
upon the slightest turning it up with a 
spade or pick-axe1  these rich metals   
plainly appear mixed with the mould4 ,it
 may be  objected that this looks a     
little fabulous2 but to this two        
satisfactory answers may be given3 the  
first is1 that later discoveries  on the
 same coast confirm the truth of it1    
which for anything ,i can see  ought to 
put the fact out of question2 but if any
 doubts should remain1  my second answer
 should overturn these4 ,for ,i say     
next1 that the  country of ,new ,mexico 
lies directly behind ,new ,albion1 on   
the other  side of a narrow bay1 and in 
that country are the mines of ,santa ,f1
  which are allowed to be the richest in
 the world2 here1 then1 is a  valuable  
country1 to which we have a very fair   

title4      ,,effects ,,of ,,the        
,,californian ,,news ,,in ,,england4--,a
 glance at the  advertisements in the   
daily papers 7says the ,examiner7 will  
show that  the public appetite for      
,california is likely to be promptly    
met4 ,the  burden of the various vessels
 already announced as ready for         
immediate  departure amounts to about   
#e1jjj tons1 distributed in ships       
ranging  from #aij to #gjj tons1 to say 
nothing of the ,west ,india             
mail-steamer1  which leaves on the      
#agth1 carrying goods and passengers to 
,chagres1 or  of a short and pleasant   
passage advertised to ,galveston1 in    
,texas1 as  a cheap route to the        
,pacific4 ,the rates range from #be     
upwards to suit  all classes4 ,thus far1
 however1 we have only the arrangements 
for those  who are able to move4 ,the   
opportunities provided for those who    
wish to  share the advantages of the new
 region without its dangers are still   
more ample4 ,indeed1 so imposing are the

 plans for an extensive  investment of  
capital for carrying on the trade in    
shares of #e each1  that it would seem  
as if the first effect of the affair    
would be to  cause a scarcity of money  
rather than an abundance4 ,about a      
million and  a quarter sterling is      
already wanted1 and the promoters       
stipulate for  the power of doubling the
 proposed amounts as occasion may offer4
 ,there  is a ,california ,gold-,coast  
,trading ,association2 a ,california    
,gold  ,mining1 ,streaming1 and ,washing
 ,company2 a ,california ,steam ,trading
  ,company1 a ,california ,gold and     
,trading ,company2 and a ,california    
,gold ,mining1 etc41 ,trading ,company4 
,the last of these alone will  require  
#fjj1jjj for its objects1 but as half   
the shares are to be  reserved for the  
,united ,states of ,america1 the drain  
upon our  resources will be lessened to 
that extent4 ,some of the concerns      
propose  to limit their operations to   
trading on the coast1 sending out at the

  same time collecting and exploring    
parties whenever the prospect may  be   
tempting4 ,others intend at once to get 
a grant from the legislature  at        
,washington of such lands as they may   
deem necessary1 while others  intend to 
trust to chance1 simply sending out a   
practical manager1  accompanied by an   
adequate number of men accustomed to the
 extraction  of gold in all its forms4  
,along with these advertisements are    
some of  a modified nature1 to suit     
parties who may neither wish to go out  
with  a batch of emigrants1 nor to stay 
at home and wait the results of a       
public company4 ,one well-educated      
gentleman seeks two others to  share    
expenses with him4 ,another wishes for a
 companion who would  advance #bjj1 one 
half to leave his wife1 and the other   
half for  outfit2 a third tells where   
any respectable individuals with small  
capital may find persons willing to join
 them2 a fourth states that  respectable
 persons having not less than #ajj are  

wanted to complete a  party2 and a      
fifth1 that a seafaring man is ready to 
go equal shares  in purchasing a        
schooner to sail on speculation4 ,what  
number may be  found to answer those    
appeals it is impossible to conjecture4 
,common  sense would say not one1 but   
experience of what has been practised   
over  and over again reminds us that the
 active parties on the present  occasion
 are not calculating too largely upon   
the credulity of their  countrymen4     
,that the country will be a pandemonium 
long before any one  can reach it from  
this side is hardly to be doubted1      
unless1 indeed1  the ,united ,states    
government shall have been able to      
establish a  blockade and cordon1 in    
which case the new arrivals will have to
 get  back as well as they can4         
,,probable ,,effect ,,on ,,the          
,,currency ,,in ,,europe4--,in the      
description of gold  mines1 and rivers  
flowing over golden sands1 we must be   
prepared for a  little over-colouring4  

,such discoveries have always excited   
sanguine  hopes1 and dreams of          
exhaustless wealth2 but if the          
accounts--and they  really appear well  
authenticated--of the golden treasures  
of ,california  be true1 quantities of  
the most precious of all metals are     
found--not  buried in mines1 but        
scattered on the surface of the earth1  
and the  fortunate adventurer may enrich
 himself beyond the dreams of avarice1  
almost without labour1 without capital1 
and with no care but that which         
cupidity generates4 ,the principle that 
the value of the precious  metals1 like 
other products of industry1 is          
determined primarily by the  cost of    
production1 and then by scarcity1 ideas 
of utility1 and  convenience1 seems to  
be neutralized by this new discovery2   
and it  becomes a curious question1 how 
far it may affect the value of gold and 
silver in ,europe4 ,if the abundance of 
gold flowing from ,america be such  as  
to exceed the demand1 the value of gold 

will fall1 and the price of  all other  
commodities relatively rise1 and the    
relative proportion  between gold and   
silver be disturbed so as to affect the 
standards of  value in each country and 
the par of exchange between one and     
another4  ,the productiveness of the    
silver mines1 there is no doubt1 is     
greater  and more regular than those of 
gold2 but the enormous increase of the  
silver currency on the ,continent1 in   
the ,united ,states1 and even in        
,india1 and our own colonies1 has kept  
the price of silver a little  below five
 shillings an ounce4 ,on the other hand 
the ,english standard  of value being   
gold only1 the drain of gold is         
generally towards  ,england1 while that 
of silver is towards the ,continent4 ,we
 do not doubt  that the ,english ,mint  
price of gold1 #c #ags4 #aj-a_/b;d4 an  
ounce1 and the  price at which the ,bank
 of ,england are compelled to purchase1 
#c #ags4  #i;d4 an ounce1 are causes    
which not only regulate1 but1 within    

certain  limits1 determine1 the price of
 gold throughout the world4 ,suppose1   
for  a moment1 the circulation of       
,england1 exceeding thirty millions and 
the  ,bank store of fifteen millions1 to
 be thrown on the markets of ,europe1   
by an alteration of the standard of     
value--how material would be the  fall  
in price6 ,it is equally obvious that   
,england would be first and  most       
materially affected by any large and    
sudden production of her  standard of   
value2 for though ,america would be     
enriched by the  discovery of the       
precious metals within her own          
territories1 it is only  because she    
would possess a larger fund to exchange 
for more useful and  necessary products 
of labour4 ,the value of silver would   
not fall1  assuming the supply and      
demand to be equalised1 but gold would  
fall in  relation to silver1 and the    
existing proportion 7about #ae to #a7   
could  no longer be maintained4 ,then   
prices would rise of all articles now   

estimated in our currency--i4e4 an ounce
 of gold would exchange for  less than  
at present4 ,and1 assuming the price of 
silver to keep up as  heretofore1 about 
#es4 an ounce1 our sovereign would be   
valued less in  other countries1 and all
 exchange operations would be sensibly  
affected4 ,the only countervailing      
influence in the reduction of gold  to1 
say1 only double the price of silver1   
would be an increased  consumption in   
articles of taste and manufacture1      
which1 however1 can  only be speculative
 and uncertain4 ,it is said by accounts 
from  ,california that five hundred     
miles lie open to the avarice of        
gold-hunters1 and that some adventurers 
have collected from #a1bjj to  #a1hjj   
dollars a-day2 the probable average of  
each man's earnings being  from #h to   
#aj dollars a-day1 or1 let us say1 #b4  
,the same authority  avers there is room
 and verge enough for the profitable    
working1 to  that extent1 of a hundred  
thousand persons4 ,and it is likely     

enough  before long that such a number  
may be tempted to seek their easily     
acquired fortune in the golden sands of 
,el ,sacramento and elsewhere4  ,now two
 pounds a-day for each man would amount 
to #bjj1jjj1 which1  multiplied by #cjj 
working days1 will give #fj1jjj1jjj     
a-year6 ,that is1  #fjj1jjj1jjj in ten  
years6 ,a fearful amount of gold dust1  
and far more  than enough to disturb the
 equanimity of ten thousand political   
economists4 ,the gold utensils found    
among the simple-minded and  philosophic
 ,peruvians 7who wondered at the eager  
desire of ,christians  for what they    
scarcely valued71 will be esteemed      
trifles with our  golden palaces1 and   
halls paved with gold1 when ,california 
shall have  poured this vast treasure   
into ,europe4 ,assuming in round numbers
 each  #b1jjj lbs41 or troy ton1 to be  
equivalent to #ajj1jjj sterling1 the    
above amount in one year would represent
 six hundred tons1 and in ten  years six
 thousand tons of gold6 ,the imagination

 of all-plodding  industrious ,england  
is incapable of grasping so great an    
idea6 ,can  there be any doubt1 then1 of
 a revolution in the value of the       
precious  metals8      ,,prohibition    
,,from ,,the ,,government4--,it would   
seem that the government  have at length
 taken measures to preserve the gold    
districts from the  bands of foreign    
adventurers who are daily pouring in    
from every  quarter4 ,towards the end of
 ,january we learn that ,general ,smith 
had  been sent out by the ,united       
,states government1 with orders to      
enforce  the laws against all persons1  
not citizens of the ,states1 who should 
be  found trespassing on the public     
lands4 ,official notice to this effect  
was issued to the ,american consul at   
,panama and other places1 in order  that
 emigrants on their way to ,california  
might be made aware of the              
determination of the government previous
 to their arrival4 ,the  punishment for 
illegal trespassing is fine and         

imprisonment4 ,it was not  known1 at the
 date of the last intelligence from     
,california how this  notification1     
which makes such an important change in 
the prospects of  the numerous bodies   
now on their way thither1 has been      
received by the  population assembled at
 the land of promise4      ,,journey    
,,from ,,arkansas ,,to ,,california4    
,the following general view of the      
nature of the country which divides  the
 ,united ,states from ,california is    
taken from a narrative1 published  by   
,lieutenant ,emory1 of a journey from   
the ,arkansas to the newly  annexed     
territory of the ,united ,states4       
,the country1 says the lieutenant1 from 
the ,arkansas to the ,colorado1  a      
distance of over #abjj miles1 in its    
adaptation to agriculture1 has          
peculiarities which must for ever stamp 
itself upon the population  which       
inhabits it4 ,all ,north ,mexico1       
embracing ,new ,mexico1 ,chihuahua1     
,sonora1 and the ,californias1 as far   

north as the ,sacramento1 is1 as far  as
 the best information goes1 the same in 
the physical character of its  surface1 
and differs but little in climate and   
products4 ,in no part of  this vast     
tract can the rains from heaven be      
relied upon1 to any  extent1 for the    
cultivation of the soil4 ,the earth is  
destitute of  trees1 and in great part  
also of any vegetation whatever4 ,a few 
feeble  streams flow in different       
directions from the great mountains1    
which in  many places traverse this     
region4 ,these streams are separated1   
sometimes by plains1 and sometimes by   
mountains1 without water and  without   
vegetation1 and may be called deserts1  
so far as they perform  any useful part 
in the sustenance of animal life4       
,the whole extent of country1 except on 
the margin of streams1 is  destitute of 
forest trees4 ,the ,apaches1 a very     
numerous race1 and the  ,navajoes1 are  
the chief occupants1 but there are many 
minor bands1 who1  unlike the ,apaches  

and ,navajoes1 are not nomadic1 but have
 fixed  habitations4 ,amongst the most  
remarkable of these are the ,soones1    
most  of whom are said to be ,albinoes4 
,the latter cultivate the soil1 and     
live in peace with their more numerous  
and savage neighbours4 ,departing  from 
the ford of the ,colorado in the        
direction of ,sonora1 there is a        
fearful desert to encounter4 ,alter1 a  
small town1 with a ,mexican  garrison1  
is the nearest settlement4 ,all accounts
 concur in  representing the journey as 
one of extreme hardship1 and even peril4
  ,the distance is not exactly known1   
but it is variously represented at  from
 four to seven days' journey4 ,persons  
bound for ,sonora from  ,california1 who
 do not mind a circuitous route1 should 
ascend the ,gila  as far as the ,pimos  
village1 and thence penetrate the       
province by way  of ,tucson4 ,at the    
ford1 the ,colorado is #a1ejj feet wide1
 and flows at  the rate of a mile and a 
half per hour4 ,its greatest depth in   

the  channel1 at the ford where we      
crossed1 is four feet4 ,the banks are   
low1  not more than four feet high1 and1
 judging from indications1 sometimes1   
though not frequently1 overflowed4 ,its 
general appearance at this point  is    
much like that of the ,arkansas1 with   
its turbid waters and shifting  sand    
islands4    ,the narrative of ,lieut4   
,emory1 of his journey from this point  
across  the ,desert of ,california1     
becomes highly interesting and          
characteristic4    ,november #bf4--,the 
dawn of day found every man on          
horseback1 and a  bunch of grass from   
the ,colorado tied behind him on the    
cantle of his  saddle4 ,after getting   
well under way1 the keen air at #bf     
,fahrenheit  made it most comfortable to
 walk4 ,we travelled four miles along   
the  sand butte1 in a southern          
direction2 we mounted the buttes and    
found a  firmer footing covered with    
fragments of lava1 rounded by water1 and
  many agates4 ,we were now fairly on   

the desert4    ,our course now inclined 
a few degrees more to the north1 and at 
#aj1  ,a4,m41 we found a large patch of 
grama1 where we halted for an hour1 and 
then pursued our way over the plains    
covered with fragments of lava1         
traversed at intervals by sand buttes1  
until #d1 ,p4,m41 when1 after           
travelling #bd miles1 we reached the    
,alamo or cotton-wood4 ,at this  point1 
the ,spaniards informed us1 that1       
failing to find water1 they had  gone a 
league to the west1 in pursuit of their 
horses1 where they found  a running     
stream4 ,we accordingly sent parties to 
search1 but neither  the water nor their
 trail could be found4 ,neither was     
there any  cotton-wood at the ,alamo1 as
 its name would signify2 but it was     
nevertheless the place1 the tree having 
probably been covered by the            
encroachments of the sand1 which here   
terminates in a bluff #dj feet  high1   
making the arc of a great circle        
convexing to the north4  ,descending    

this bluff1 we found in what had been   
the channel of a  stream1 now overgrown 
with a few ill-conditioned mesquite1 a  
large hole  where persons had evidently 
dug for water4 ,it was necessary to halt
 to  rest our animals1 and the time was 
occupied in deepening this hole1  which1
 after a strong struggle1 showed signs  
of water4 ,an old champagne  basket1    
used by one of the officers as a        
pannier1 was lowered in the  hole1 to   
prevent the crumbling of the sand4      
,after many efforts to keep  out the    
caving sand1 a basket-work of willow    
twigs effected the object1  and1 much to
 the joy of all1 the basket1 which was  
now #ae or #bj feet  below the surface1 
filled with water4 ,the order was given 
for each mess  to draw a kettle of      
water1 and ,captain ,turner was placed  
in charge of  the spring1 to see fair   
distribution4    ,when the messes were  
supplied1 the firmness of the banks gave
 hopes  that the animals might be       
watered1 and each party was notified to 

have  their animals in waiting2 the     
important business of watering then     
commenced1 upon the success of which    
depended the possibility of their       
advancing with us a foot further4 ,two  
buckets for each animal were  allowed4  
,at #aj1 ,a4,m41 when my turn came1     
,captain ,moore had succeeded1  by great
 exertions1 in opening another well1 and
 the one already opened  began to flow  
more freely1 in consequence of which1 we
 could afford to  give each animal as   
much as it could drink4 ,the poor       
brutes1 none of  which had tasted water 
in forty-eight hours1 and some not for  
the last  sixty1 clustered round the    
well and scrambled for precedence4 ,at  
#ab  o'clock ,i had watered all my      
animals1 thirty-seven in number1 and    
turned over the well to ,captain ,moore4
 ,the animals still had an aching  void 
to fill1 and all night was heard the    
munching of sticks1 and their  piteous  
cries for more congenial food4          
,november #bg and #bh4--,to-day we      

started a few minutes after sunrise4    
,our course was a winding one1 to avoid 
the sand-drifts4 ,the ,mexicans  had    
informed us that the waters of the salt 
lake1 some thirty or forty  miles       
distant1 were too salt to use1 but other
 information led us to  think the       
intelligence was wrong4 ,we accordingly 
tried to reach it2  about #c1 ,p4,m41 we
 disengaged ourselves from the sand1 and
 went due  7magnetic7 west1 over an     
immense level of clay detritus1 hard and
  smooth as a bowling-green4 ,the desert
 was almost destitute of  vegetation2   
now and then an ,ephedra1 ,oenothera1 or
 bunches of ,aristida  were seen1 and   
occasionally the level was covered with 
a growth of  ,obione canescens1 and a   
low bush with small oval plaited leaves1
  unknown4 ,the heavy sand had proved   
too much for many horses and some       
mules1 and all the efforts of their     
drivers could bring them no further     
than the middle of this desert4 ,about  
#h o'clock1 as we approached the  lake1 

the stench of dead animals confirmed the
 reports of the ,mexicans1  and put to  
flight all hopes of being able to use   
the water4    ,the basin of the lake1 as
 well as ,i could judge at night1 is    
about  three-quarters of a mile long and
 half a mile wide4 ,the water had       
receded to a pool1 diminished to one    
half its size1 and the approach to  it1 
was through a thick soapy quagmire4 ,it 
was wholly unfit for man or  brute1 and 
we studiously kept the latter from it1  
thinking that the use  of it would but  
aggravate their thirst4 ,one or two of  
the men came in  late1 and1 rushing to  
the lake1 threw themselves down and took
 many  swallows before discovering their
 mistake2 but the effect was not        
injurious except that it increased their
 thirst4 ,a few mezquite trees  and a   
chenopodiaceous shrub bordered the lake1
 and on these our mules  munched till   
they had sufficiently refreshed         
themselves1 when the call  to saddle was
 sounded1 and we groped silently our way

 in the dark4 ,the  stoutest animals now
 began to stagger1 and when day dawned  
scarcely a  man was seen mounted4       
,with the sun rose a heavy fog from the 
south-west1 no doubt from the  gulf1    
and1 sweeping towards us1 enveloped us  
for two or three hours1  wetting our    
blankets and giving relief to the       
animals4 ,before it had  disappeared we 
came to a patch of sun-burned grass4    
,when the fog had  entirely dispersed we
 found ourselves entering a gap in the  
mountains1  which had been before us for
 four days4 ,the plain was crossed1 but 
we  had not yet found water4 ,the first 
valley we reached was dry1 and it  was  
not till #ab o'clock1 ,m41 that we      
struck the ,cariso 7cane7 creek1  within
 half a mile of one of its sources1 and 
although so close to the  source1 the   
sands had already absorbed much of its  
water1 and left but  little running4 ,a 
mile or two below1 the creek entirely   
disappears4 ,we  halted1 having made    
fifty-four miles in the two days1 at the

 source1 a  magnificent spring1 twenty  
or thirty feet in diameter1 highly      
impregnated with sulphur1 and medicinal 
in its properties4    ,the desert over  
which we had passed1 ninety miles from  
water to water1  is an immense          
triangular plain1 bounded on one side by
 the ,colorado1 on  the west by the     
,cordilleras of ,california1 the coast  
chain of mountains  which now encircles 
us1 extending from the ,sacramento river
 to the  southern extremity of ,lower   
,california1 and on the north-east by a 
chain of mountains1 running southeast   
and northwest4 ,it is chiefly  covered  
with floating sand1 the surface of which
 in various places is  white1 with      
diminutive spinelas1 and everywhere over
 the whole surface  is found the large  
and soft muscle shell4 ,i have noted the
 only two  patches of grass found during
 the 'jornada4' ,there were scattered1  
at  wide intervals1 the ,palafoxia      
linearis1 ,atriplex1 ,encelia farinosa1 
,daleas1 ,euphorbias1 and a ,simsia1    

described by ,dr4 ,torrey as a new      
species4    ,the southern termination of
 this desert is bounded by the ,tecat   
chain  of mountains and the ,colorado2  
but its northern and eastern boundaries 
are undefined1 and ,i should suppose    
from the accounts of trappers1 and      
others1 who have attempted the passage  
from ,california to the ,gila by a  more
 northern route1 that it extends many   
days' travel beyond the chain  of barren
 mountains which bound the horizon in   
that direction4 ,the  portal to the     
mountains through which we passed was   
formed by immense  buttes of yellow clay
 and sand1 with large flakes of mica and
 seams of  gypsum4 ,nothing could be    
more forlorn and desolate in appearance4
 ,the  gypsum had given some consistency
 to the sand buttes1 which were washed  
into fantastic figures4 ,one ridge      
formed apparently a complete circle1    
giving it the appearance of a crater2   
and although some miles to the  left1 ,i
 should have gone to visit it1 supposing

 it to be a crater1 but  my mule was    
sinking with thirst1 and water was yet  
at some distance4  ,many animals were   
left on the road to die of thirst and   
hunger1 in  spite of the generous       
efforts of the men to bring them to the 
spring4  ,more than one was brought up1 
by one man tugging at the halter and    
another pushing up the brute1 by placing
 his shoulder against its  buttocks4    
,our most serious loss1 perhaps1 was    
that of one or two fat  mares and colts 
brought with us for food2 for1 before   
leaving camp1  ,major ,swords found in a
 concealed place one of the best pack   
mules  slaughtered1 and the choice bits 
cut from his shoulders and flanks1      
stealthily done by some mess less       
provident than others4    ,nov4         
#bi4--,the grass at the spring was      
anything but desirable for our  horses1 
and there was scarcely a ration left for
 the men4 ,this last  consideration     
would not prevent our giving the horses 
a day's rest  wherever grass could be   

found4 ,we followed the dry sandy bed of
 the  ,cariso nearly all day1 at a      
snail's pace1 and at length reached the 
'little pools' where the grass was      
luxuriant but very salt4 ,the water     
strongly resembled that at the head of  
the ,cariso creek1 and the earth1  which
 was very tremulous for many acres about
 the pools1 was covered  with salt4     
,this valley is not more than half a    
mile wide1 and on each  side are        
mountains of grey granite and pure      
quartz1 rising from #a1jjj  to #c1jjj   
feet above it4    ,we rode for miles    
through thickets of the centennial      
plant1 ,agave  ,americana1 and found one
 in full bloom4 ,the sharp thorns       
terminating  every leaf of this plant   
were a great annoyance to our dismounted
 and  wearied men1 whose legs were now  
almost bare4 ,a number of these plants  
were cut by the soldiers1 and the body  
of them used as food4 ,the day  was     
intensely hot1 and the sand deep2 the   
animals1 inflated with water  and       

rushes1 gave way by scores2 and although
 we advanced only sixteen  miles1 many  
did not arrive at camp until #aj o'clock
 at night4 ,it was a  feast day for the 
wolves1 which followed in packs close on
 our track1  seizing our deserted       
brutes1 and making the air resound with 
their  howls as they battled for the    
carcases4    ,december #ab4--,we        
followed the ,solidad through a deep    
fertile valley  in the shape of a cross4
 ,here we ascended to the left a steep  
hill to  the table lands1 which1 keeping
 for a few miles1 we descended into a   
waterless valley1 leading into ,false   
,bay at a point distant two or  three   
miles from ,san ,diego4 ,at this place  
we were in view of the fort  overlooking
 the town of ,san ,diego and the barren 
waste which surrounds  it4    ,the town 
consists of a few adobe houses1 two or  
three of which only  have plank floors4 
,it is situated at the foot of a high   
hill on a sand  flat1 two miles wide1   
reaching from the head of ,san ,diego   

,bay to ,false  ,bay4 ,a high           
promontory1 of nearly the same width1   
runs into the sea  four or five miles1  
and is connected by the flat with the   
main land4  ,the road to the hide-houses
 leads on the east side of this         
promontory1  and abreast of them the    
frigate ,congress and the sloop         
,portsmouth are  at anchor4 ,the        
hide-houses are a collection of         
store-houses where the  hides of cattle 
are packed before being shipped1 this   
article forming  the only trade of the  
little town4    ,the bay is a narrow arm
 of the sea indenting the land some four
 or  five miles1 easily defended1 and   
having twenty feet of water at the      
lowest tide4 ,the rise is five feet1    
making the greatest water  twenty-five  
feet4    ,standing on the hill which    
overlooks the town1 and looking to the  
north-east1 ,i saw the mission of ,san  
,diego1 a fine large building now       
deserted4 ,the ,rio ,san ,diego runs    
under ground in a direct course from    

the mission to the town1 and1 sweeping  
around the hill1 discharges  itself into
 the bay4 ,its original debouche was    
into ,false bay1 where1  meeting the    
waters rolling in from the seaward1 a   
bar was formed by the  deposit of sand1 
making the entrance of ,false ,bay      
impracticable4    ,january #b4--,six and
 a half miles' march brought us to the  
deserted  mission of ,san ,luis ,rey4   
,the keys of this mission were in charge
 of the  alcalde of the ,indian village1
 a mile distant4 ,he was at the door to 
receive us and deliver up possession4   
,there we halted for the day1 to  let   
the sailors1 who suffered dreadfully    
from sore feet1 recruit a  little4 ,this
 building is one which1 for magnitude1  
convenience1 and  durability of         
architecture1 would do honour to any    
country4    ,the walls are adobe1 and   
the roofs of well-made tile4 ,it was    
built  about sixty years since by the   
,indians of the country1 under the      
guidance of a zealous priest4 ,at that  

time the ,indians were very  numerous1  
and under the absolute sway of the      
missionaries4 ,these  missionaries at   
one time bid fair to christianize the   
,indians of  ,california4 ,under grants 
from the ,mexican government1 they      
collected  them into missions1 built    
immense houses1 and began successfully  
to  till the soil by the hands of the   
,indians for the benefit of the         
,indians4    ,the habits of the priests1
 and the avarice of the military rulers 
of  the territory1 however1 soon        
converted these missions into           
instruments  of oppression and slavery  
of the ,indian race4    ,the revolution 
of #ahcf saw the downfall of the        
priests1 and most of  these missions    
passed by fraud into the hands of       
private individuals1  and with them the 
,indians were transferred as serfs of   
the land4    ,this race1 which1 in our  
country1 has never been reduced to      
slavery1  is in that degraded condition 
throughout ,california1 and does the    

only  labour performed in the country4  
,nothing can exceed their present       
degradation4    ,the general closing    
remarks of ,lieutenant ,emory are as    
follow3    ,the region extending from   
the head of the ,gulf of ,california to 
the  parallel of the ,pueblo1 or ,ciudad
 de los ,angeles1 is the only portion   
not heretofore covered by my own notes  
and journal1 or by the notes and        
journals of other scientific expeditions
 fitted out by the ,united  ,states4    
,the journals and published accounts of 
these several  expeditions combined will
 give definite ideas of all those       
portions of  ,california susceptible of 
cultivation or settlement4 ,from this   
remark  is to be excepted the vast basin
 watered by the ,colorado1 and the      
country lying between that river and the
 range of ,cordilleras1  represented as 
running east of the ,tulare lakes1 and  
south of the  parallel of #cf1 and the  
country between the ,colorado and ,gila 
rivers4    ,of these regions nothing is 

known except from the reports of        
trappers1  and the speculations of      
geologists4 ,as far as these accounts   
go1 all  concur in representing it as a 
waste of sand and rock1 unadorned with  
vegetation1 poorly watered1 and unfit1  
it is believed1 for any of the  useful  
purposes of life4 ,a glance at the map  
will show what an immense  area is      
embraced in these boundaries2 and1      
notwithstanding the oral  accounts in   
regard to it1 it is difficult to bring  
the mind to the  belief in the existence
 of such a sea of waste and desert2 when
 every  other grand division of the     
earth presents some prominent feature in
  the economy of nature1 administering  
to the wants of man4 ,possibly this     
unexplored region may be filled with    
valuable minerals4    ,where irrigation 
can be had in this country1 the produce 
of the soil  is abundant beyond         
description4 ,all the grains and fruits 
of the  temperate zones1 and many of    
those of the tropical1 flourish         

luxuriantly4 ,descending from the       
heights of ,san ,barnardo to the        
,pacific  one meets every degree of     
temperature4 ,near the coast1 the winds 
prevailing from the south-west in       
winter1 and from the north-west in      
summer1 produce a great uniformity of   
temperature1 and the climate is  perhaps
 unsurpassed in salubrity4 ,with the    
exception of a very few  cases of ague  
and fever of a mild type1 sickness is   
unknown4    ,the season of the year at  
which we visited the country was        
unfavourable to obtaining a knowledge of
 its botany4 ,the vegetation1  mostly   
deciduous1 had gone to decay1 and no    
flowers nor seeds were  collected4 ,the 
country generally is entirely destitute 
of trees4 ,along  the principal range of
 the mountains are a few live oaks1     
sycamore and  pine2 now and then1 but   
very rarely1 the sycamore and           
cotton-wood occur  in the champaign     
country1 immediately on the margins of  
the streams4  ,wild oats everywhere     

cover the surface of the hills1 and     
these1 with  the wild mustard and       
carrots1 furnish good pasturage to the  
immense  herds of cattle which form the 
staple of ,california4 ,of the many     
fruits  capable of being produced with  
success1 by culture and irrigation1 the 
grape is perhaps that which is brought  
nearest to perfection4  ,experienced    
wine-growers and ,europeans1 pronounce  
this portion of  ,california unequalled 
for the quality of its wines4