,,account ,,of ,a ,,tour ,,in ,,normandy
 ,volume ,i    by ,dawson ,turner       
,,letters ,,from ,,normandy             
,,addressed  ,,to ,,the ,,rev4 ,,james  
,,layton1 ,b4,a4  ,,of  ,,catfield1     
,,norfolk4    ,,undertaken ,,chiefly    
,,for ,,the ,,purpose ,,of              
,,investigating ,,the ,,architectural   
,,antiquities ,,of ,,the ,,duchy1 ,,with
 ,,observations ,,on ,,its ,,history1   
,,on ,,the  ,,country1 ,,and ,,on ,,its 
,,inhabitants4    ,,illustrated  ,,with 
,,numerous ,,engravings4    ,,vol4 ,i4  
,,london3 #ahbj4          ,,preface4    
,the observations which form the basis  
of the following letters1 were          
collected during three successive tours 
in ,normandy1 in the summers of  #ahae1 
#ahah1 and #ahai2 but chiefly in the    
second of these years4 ,where ,i  have  
not depended upon my own remarks1 ,i    
have endeavored1 as far as  appeared    
practicable and without tedious         
minuteness1 to quote my  authorities for
 facts2 and ,i believe that ,i have done

 so in most  instances1 except indeed   
where ,i have borrowed from the journals
 of the  companions of my tours1--the   
nearest and dearest of my               
connections1--or  from that of my       
friend1 ,mr4 ,cohen1 who1 at almost the 
same time1  travelled through a great   
part of ,normandy1 pursuing also very   
similar  objects of inquiry4 ,the       
materials obtained from these sources1  
it has  been impossible to separate from
 my own2 and1 interwoven as they are    
with the rest of the text1 it is only in
 my power to acknowledge1 in  these     
general terms1 the assistance which ,i  
have thus received4--,we were           
proceeding in #ahah1 to the southern and
 western districts of ,normandy1  when a
 domestic calamity compelled me to      
return to ,england4 ,the tour was       
consequently abridged1 and many places  
of note remained unvisited by us4    ,my
 narrative is principally addressed to  
those readers who find pleasure  in the 
investigation of architectural          

antiquity4 ,without the slightest       
pretensions to the character either of  
an architect or of an  antiquarian1     
engaged in other avocations and employed
 in other studies1  ,i am but too       
conscious of my inability to do justice 
to the subject4 ,yet  my remarks may at 
least assist the future traveller1 by   
pointing out  such objects as are       
interesting1 either on account of their 
antiquity or  their architectural worth4
 ,this information is not to be obtained
 from  the ,french1 who have habitually 
neglected the investigation of their    
national monuments4 ,i doubt1 however1  
whether ,i should have ventured  upon   
publication1 if those who have always   
accompanied me both at home  and abroad1
 had not produced the illustrations     
which constitute the  principal value of
 my volumes4 ,of the merits of these    
illustrations ,i  must not be allowed to
 speak2 but it may be permitted me to   
observe1  that the fine arts afford the 
only mode of exerting the talents of    

woman1 which does not violate the spirit
 of the precept which the  greatest     
historian of antiquity has ascribed to  
the greatest of her  heroes--           
,english4 ,greek in ,original ,great    
will be your glory in not falling  short
 of your natural character2 and greatest
 will be hers who is least  talked of   
among the men whether for good or for   
bad4 ,thucydides'  ,historiae4 7,book   
#b1 ,chapter #de1 ,paragraph #b1 ,verses
 #c-e47    ,,dawson ,,turner4           
,,yarmouth1 #acth ,august#ahbj4         
,,contents4    ,,letter ,i4    ,arrival 
at ,dieppe--,situation and ,appearance  
of the ,town--,costume of the           
,people--,inhabitants of the ,suburb of 
,pollet4    ,,letter ,,ii4              
,dieppe--,castle--,churches--,history of
 the ,place--,feast of the ,assumption4 
,,letter ,,iii4 ,csars ,camp--,castle of
 ,arques4    ,,letter ,,iv4    ,journey 
from ,dieppe to ,rouen--,priory of      
,longueville--,rouen-,bridge of         
,boats--,costume of the ,inhabitants4   

,,letter ,v4    ,journey to             
,havre--,pays de ,caux--,st4            
,vallery--,fcamp--,the precious         
,blood--,the ,abbey--,tombs in          
it--,moutivilliers--,harfleur4          
,,letter ,,vi4    ,havre--,trade and    
,history of the ,town--,eminent         
,men--,bolbec--,yvetot--,ride  to       
,rouen--,french ,beggars4    ,,letter   
,,vii4    ,on the ,state of ,affairs in 
,france4    ,,letter ,,viii4            
,military ,antiquities--,le ,vieux      
,chteau--,original ,palace of the       
,norman  ,dukes--,halles of             
,rouen--,miracle and ,privilege of ,st4 
,romain--,chteau du  ,vieux             
,palais--,petit ,chteau--,fort on ,mont 
,ste4 ,catherine--,priory               
there--,chapel of ,st4                  
,michael--,devotee4    ,,letter ,,ix4   
,ancient ,ecclesiastical                
,architecture--,churches of ,st4 ,paul  
and ,st4  ,gervais--,hospital of ,st4   
,julien--,churches of ,lry1 ,pavilly1   
and  ,yainville4    ,,letter ,x4        

,early ,pointed                         
,architecture--,cathedral--,episcopal   
,palace4    ,,letter ,,xi4    ,pointed  
,ecclesiastical ,architecture--,churches
 of ,st4 ,ouen1 ,st4 ,maclou1  ,st4     
,patrice1 and ,st4 ,godard4    ,,letter 
,,xii4    ,palais de ,justice--,states1 
,exchequer1 and ,parliament of          
,normandy--,guild  of the               
,conards--,joan of ,arc--,fountain and  
,bas-,relief in the ,place de la        
,pucelle--,tour de la ,grosse           
,horloge--,public ,fountains--,rivers   
,aubette and  ,robec--,hospitals--,mint4
    ,,letter ,,xiii4    ,monastic       
,institutions--,library--,manuscripts--,
museum--,academy--,botanic              
,garden--,theatre--,ancient             
,history--,eminent ,men4    ,,list ,,of 
,,plates4  ,plate #ja ,head-,dress of   
,women of the ,pays de ,caux4    ,plate 
#jb ,entrance to the ,castle at ,dieppe4
    ,plate #jc ,font in the ,church of  
,st4 ,remi1 at ,dieppe4    ,plate #jd   
,plan of ,caesar's ,camp1 near ,dieppe4 

,plate #je ,general ,view of the ,castle
 of ,arques4    ,plate #jf ,tower of    
remarkable shape in ditto4    ,plate #jg
 ,church at ,arques4    ,plate #jh ,view
 of ,rouen1 from the ,grand ,cours4     
,plate #ji ,tower and ,spire of         
,harfleur ,church4    ,plate #aj        
,bas-,relief1 representing ,st4 ,romain4
    ,plate #aa ,sculpture1 supposed     
,roman1 in the ,church of ,st4 ,paul1 at
 ,rouen4    ,plate #ab ,circular ,tower1
 attached to the ,church of ,st4 ,ouen1 
at ,rouen4    ,plate #ac ,interior of   
the ,church at ,pavilly4    ,plate #ad  
,monumental ,figure of ,rollo1 in ,rouen
 ,cathedral4    ,plate #ae ,ditto of an 
,archbishop1 in ditto4    ,plate #af    
,monument of ditto4    ,plate #ag       
,equestrian ,figure of the ,seneschal de
 ,brez1 in ,rouen ,cathedral4    ,plate 
#ah ,tower of the ,church of ,st4 ,ouen1
 at ,rouen4    ,plate #ai ,south ,porch 
of ditto4    ,plate #bj ,head of        
,christ1 in ditto1 seen in profile4     
,plate #ba ,ditto1 in ditto1 seen in    

front4    ,plate #bb ,stone ,staircase  
in the ,church of ,st4 ,maclou1 at      
,rouen4    ,plate #bc ,sculpture1       
representing the ,feast of ,fools4      
,plate #bd ,bas-,relief1 from the       
representations of the ,champ du ,drap  
d'or4    ,plate #be ,initial ,letter    
from a ,,ms4 of the ,history of ,william
 of ,jumieges4          ,,letters ,,from
 ,,normandy4          ,,letter ,i4      
,,arrival ,,at ,,dieppe--,,situation    
,,and ,,appearance ,,of ,,the           
,,town--,,costume ,,of ,,the            
,,people--,,inhabitants ,,of ,,the      
,,suburb ,,of ,,pollet4      7,dieppe1  
,june1 #ahah7    ,,my ,,dear ,,sir1     
,you1 who were never at sea1 can        
scarcely imagine the pleasure we felt1  
when1 after a passage of unusual length1
 cooped up with twenty-four  other      
persons in a packet designed only for   
twelve1 and after having  experienced   
every variety that could he afforded by 
a dead calm1 a  contrary wind1 a brisk  
gale in our favor1 and1 finally1 by     

being obliged  to lie three hours in a  
heavy swell off this port1 we at last   
received  on board our ,french pilot1   
and saw hoisted on the pier the white   
flag1  the signal of ten feet water in  
the harbor4 ,the general appearance of  
the coast1 near ,dieppe1 is similar to  
that which we left at ,brighton2  but   
the height of the cliffs1 if ,i am not  
mistaken1 is greater4 ,they  vary along 
the shores of ,upper ,normandy from one 
hundred and fifty to  seven hundred     
feet1 or even more2 the highest lying   
nearly mid-way  between this town and   
,havre1 in the vicinity of ,fcamp2 and  
they present  an unbroken barrier1 of a 
dazzling white#a1 except when they dip  
into  some creek or cove1 or open to    
afford a passage to some river or       
streamlet4 ,into one of these1 a boat   
from the opposite shores of ,sussex     
shot past us this afternoon1 with the   
rapidity of lightning4 ,she was a       
smuggler1 and1 in spite of the army of  
,douaniers employed in ,france1         

ventured to make the land in the broad  
face of day1 carrying most  probably a  
cargo1 composed principally of          
manufactured goods in cotton  and steel4
 ,the crew of our vessel1 no bad        
authority in such cases1  assured us1   
that lace is also sent in considerable  
quantities as a  contraband article into
 ,france2 though1 as is well known1 much
 of it  likewise comes in the same      
quality into ,england1 and there are    
perhaps  few of our travellers1 who     
return entirely without it4 ,on the same
  authority1 ,i am enabled to state1    
what much surprised me1 that the        
smuggled goods exported from ,sussex    
into ,normandy exceed by nearly an      
hundred fold those received in return4  
,the first approach to ,dieppe is       
extremely striking4 ,to embark in the   
evening at ,brighton1 sleep soundly in  
the packet1 and find yourself1 as  is   
commonly the case1 early the next       
morning under the piers of this  town1  
is a transition1 which1 to a person     

unused to foreign countries1  can       
scarcely fail to appear otherwise than  
as a dream2 so marked and so  entire is 
the difference between the air of       
elegance and mutual  resemblance in the 
buildings1 of smartness approaching to  
splendor in  the equipages1 of fashion  
in the costume1 of the activity of      
commerce in  the movements1 and of      
newness and neatness in every part of   
the one1  contrasted in the other with a
 strong character of poverty and        
neglect1  with houses as various in     
their structure as in their materials1  
with  dresses equally dissimilar in     
point of color1 substance1 and style1   
with  carriages which seem never to have
 known the spirit of improvement1 and   
with a general listlessness of manner1  
the result of indolence1 apathy1  and   
want of occupation4 ,with all this1     
however1 the novelty which  attends the 
entrance of the harbor at ,dieppe1 is   
not only striking1 but  interesting4 ,it
 is not thus at ,calais1 where half the 

individuals you  meet in the streets are
 of your own country2 where ,english    
fashions and  manufactures are commonly 
adopted2 and where you hear your native 
tongue1 not only in the hotels1 but even
 the very beggars follow you  with1 ,i  
say1 give me un sou1 s'il vous please4  
,but this is not the  only advantage    
which the road by ,dieppe from ,london  
to ,paris possesses1  over that by      
,calais4 ,there is a saving of distance1
 amounting to twenty  miles on the      
,english1 and sixty on the ,french side 
of the water2 the  expence is still     
farther decreased by the yet lower rate 
of charges at  the inns2 and1 while the 
ride to the ,french metropolis by the   
one route  is through a most            
uninteresting country1 with no other    
objects of  curiosity than ,amiens1     
,beauvais1 and ,abbeville2 by the other 
it passes  through a province unrivalled
 for its fertility and for the beauty of
  its landscape1 and which is allowed by
 the ,french themselves to be the       

garden of the kingdom4 ,rouen1 ,vernon1 
,mantes1 and ,st4 ,germain1 names all   
more or less connected with ,english    
history1 successively present           
themselves to the traveller2 and1 during
 the greater part of his  journey1 his  
path lies by the side of a noble stream1
 diversified beyond  almost every other 
by the windings of its channel1 and the 
islands which  stud its surface4 ,the   
only evil to counterbalance the claims  
of ,dieppe  is1 that the packets do not 
sail daily1 although they profess and   
actually advertise to that effect2 but  
wait till what they consider a          
sufficient freight of passengers is     
assembled1 so that1 either at ,dieppe   
or ,brighton1 a person runs the risk of 
being detained1 as has more than  once  
happened to myself1 a circumstance that 
never occurs at ,dover4  ,there is still
 a third point of passage upon our      
southern coast1 and one  that has of    
late been considerably frequented1 from 
,southampton to  ,havre2 but this ,i    

never tried1 and do not know what it has
 to recommend  it1 except to those who  
are proceeding to ,caen or to the       
western parts  of ,france4 ,the voyage  
is longer and more uncertain1 the       
distance by land  between ,london and   
,paris is also greater1 nor does it     
offer equal  facilities as to inns and  
public carriages4    ,dieppe is situated
 on a low tongue of land1 but from the  
sea appears to  great advantage2        
characterized as it is by its old       
castle1 an assemblage  of various forms 
and ages1 placed insulated upon an      
eminence to the west1  and by the domes 
and towers of its churches4 ,the mouth  
of the harbor is  narrow1 and inclosed  
by two long stone piers1 on one of which
 stands an  elegant crucifix1 raised by 
the fathers of the mission2 to the other
 has  lately been affixed a stone1 with 
an inscription1 stating that the        
,duchess d',angoulme landed there on her
 return to her native country2  but here
 is no measure of her foot1 no votive   

pillar1 as are to be seen  at ,calais1  
to commemorate a similar honor done to  
the inhabitants by the  monarch4 ,a     
small house on the western pier1 is1    
however1 more deserving  of notice than 
either the inscription or the crucifix3 
it was built by  ,louis ,x,v,ith1 for   
the residence of a sailor1 who1 by      
saving the lives of  shipwrecked        
mariners1 had deserved well of his      
sovereign and his  country4 ,its front  
bears1 ,a ,j'n4 ,a'r4 ,bouzard1 pour ses
 services  maritimes2 but there was     
originally a second inscription in honor
 of  the king1 which has been carefully 
erased4 ,the fury of the revolution     
could pardon nothing that bore the least
 relation to royalty2 or surely  a      
monument like this1 the reward of       
courage and calculated to inspire  only 
the best of feelings#b1 might have been 
allowed to have remained  uninjured4    
,the ,french are wiser than we are in   
erecting these public  memorials for    
public virtues3 they better understand  

the art of  producing an effect1 and    
they know that such gratifications      
bestowed  upon the living are seldom    
thrown away4 ,we rarely give them but to
 the  dead4 ,capt4 ,manby1 to whom above
 one hundred and thirty shipwrecked     
mariners are even now indebted for their
 existence1 and whose invention  will   
probably be the means of preservation to
 thousands1 is allowed to  live in      
comparative obscurity2 while in ,france1
 a mere pilot1 for  having saved the    
lives of only eight individuals1 had a  
residence built  for him at the public  
expence1 received an immediate          
gratification of  one thousand francs1  
enjoyed a pension during his life1 and1 
with his  name and his exploits1 now    
occupies a conspicuous place in the     
history  of the duchy4    ,within the   
piers1 the harbor widens into a stone   
basin1 capable of  holding two hundred  
vessels1 and full of water at the flow  
of the tide2  but at the ebb exhibiting 
little more than a sheet of mud1 with a 

small  stream meandering through it4    
,round the harbor is built the town1    
which  contains above twenty thousand   
inhabitants1 and is singularly          
picturesque1 as well from its situation1
 backed as it is by the steep  cliff to 
the east1 which1 instead of terminating 
here abruptly1 takes an  inland         
direction1 as from the diversity in the 
forms and materials of  the houses of   
the quay1 some of which are of stone1   
others of grey  flint1 more of plaster  
with their timbers uncovered and painted
 of  different colors1 but most of      
brick1 not uncommonly ornamented1 with  
roofs as steep as those of the          
,thuilleries1 and full of projecting    
lucarnes4 ,this remark1 however1 applies
 only to the quay3 in its  streets1     
,dieppe is conspicuous among ,french    
towns for the uniformity of  its        
buildings4 ,after the bombardment in    
#afid1 when the ,english1 foiled  near  
,brest1 wreaked their vengeance upon    
,dieppe1 and reduced the whole  to      

ashes1 the town was rebuilt on a regular
 plan1 agreeably to a royal  ordinance4 
,hence this is commonly regarded as one 
of the handsomest  places in ,france1   
and you will find it mentioned as such  
by most  authors2 but the unfortunate   
architect who was employed in rebuilding
  it1 got no other reward than general  
complaints and the nickname of ,m4      
,gteville4 ,the inconveniences arising  
from the arrangements of the  houses    
which he erected must have been serious2
 for we find that sixty  years          
afterwards an order of council was      
procured1 allowing the  inhabitants to  
make some alterations that they         
considered most essential  to their     
comfort4 ,upon the quay there is        
occasionally somewhat of the  activity  
of commerce2 but elsewhere it is as ,i  
have observed before1 as  well with the 
people as the buildings4 ,as far as the 
houses are  concerned1 a little care and
 paint would remove their squalid       
aspect3 to  an ,english eye it is       

singularly offensive2 but it cannot     
possibly be so  to the ,french1 among   
whom it seems almost universal4    ,to a
 painter ,dieppe must be a source of    
great delight3 the situation1  the      
buildings1 the people offer an endless  
variety2 but nothing is more  remarkable
 than the costume of the females of the 
middle and lower  classes1 most of whom 
wear high pyramidal caps1 with long     
lappets  entirely concealing their hair1
 red1 blue1 or black corsets1 large     
wooden shoes1 black stockings1 and full 
scarlet petticoats of the  coarsest     
woollen1 pockets of some different die  
attached to the outside1  and not       
uncommonly the appendage of a key or    
corkscrew3 occasionally too  the color  
of their costume is still farther       
diversified by a chequered  handkerchief
 and white apron4 ,the young are        
generally pretty2 the old1  tanned and  
ugly2 and the transition from youth to  
age seems  instantaneous3 labor and     
poverty have destroyed every            

intermediate  gradation2 but1 whether   
young or old1 they have all the same    
good-humored look1 and appear generally 
industrious1 though almost  incessantly 
talking4 ,even on ,sundays or           
feast-days1 bonnets are seldom  to be   
seen1 but round their necks are         
suspended large silver or gilt          
ornaments1 usually crosses1 while long  
gold ear-rings drop from either  side of
 their head1 and their shoes frequently 
glitter with paste  buckles of an       
enormous size4 ,such is the present     
costume of the females  at ,dieppe1 and 
throughout the whole ,pays de ,caux2 and
 in this  description1 the lover of     
antiquarian research will easily trace a
  resemblance to the attire of the women
 of ,england1 in the ,x,vth and ,x,v,ith
  centuries4 ,as to the cap1 which the  
,cauchoise wears when she appears en    
grand costume1 its very prototype is to 
be found in ,strutt's ,ancient          
,dresses4 ,decorated with silver before1
 and with lace streaming behind1  it    

towers on the head of the stiff-necked  
complacent wearer1 whose locks  appear  
beneath1 arrayed with statuary          
precision4 ,nor is its antiquity  solely
 confined to its form and fashion2 for1 
descending from the great  grandmother  
to the great grand-daughter1 it remains 
as an heir-loom in  the family from     
generation unto generation4 ,in my      
former visit to  ,normandy1 three years 
ago1 we first saw this head-dress at the
 theatre  at ,rouen1 and my companion   
was so struck with it that he made the  
sketch1 of which ,i send you a copy4    
,the costume of the females of  somewhat
 higher rank is very becoming3 they wear
 muslin caps1 opening in  front to shew 
their graceful ringlets1 colored gowns1 
scarlet  handkerchiefs1 and black       
aprons4    ,illustration3 ,head-,dress  
of ,women of the ,pays de ,caux    ,but 
nothing connected with the costume or   
manners of the people at  ,dieppe is    
equally interesting as what refers to   
the inhabitants of the  suburb called   

,pollet2 and ,i will therefore conclude 
my letter1 by  extracting from the      
historian of the place#c his account of 
these men1  which1 though written many  
years ago1 is true in the main even in  
our  days1 and it is to be hoped will1  
in its most important respects1         
continue so for a length of time to     
come4 ,three-fourths of the natives  of 
this part of the town are fishermen1 and
 not less effectually  distinguished    
from the citizens of ,dieppe by their   
name of ,poltese1  taken from their     
place of residence1 than by the         
difference in their  dress and language1
 the simplicity of their manners1 and   
the narrow  extent of their             
acquirements4 ,to the present hour they 
continue to  preserve the same costume  
as in the ,x,v,ith century2 wearing     
trowsers  covered with wide short       
petticoats1 which open in the middle to 
afford  room for the legs to move1 and  
woollen waistcoats laced in the front   
with ribands1 and tucked below into the 

waistband of their trowsers4  ,over     
these waistcoats is a close coat1       
without buttons or fastenings of  any   
kind1 which falls so low as to hide     
their petticoats and extend a  foot or  
more beyond them4 ,these articles of    
apparel are usually of cloth  or serge  
of a uniform color1 and either red or   
blue2 for they interdict  every other   
variation1 except that all the seams of 
their dress are  faced with white silk  
galloon1 full an inch in width4 ,to     
complete the  whole1 instead of hats1   
they have on their heads caps of velvet 
or  colored cloth1 forming a            
tout-ensemble of attire1 which is       
evidently  ancient1 but far from        
unpicturesque or displeasing4 ,thus     
clad1 the  ,poltese1 though in the midst
 of the kingdom1 have the appearance of 
a  distinct and foreign colony2 whilst1 
occupied incessantly in fishing1  they  
have remained equally strangers to the  
civilization and  politeness1 which the 
progress of letters during the last two 

centuries  has diffused over ,france4   
,nay1 scarcely are they acquainted with 
four  hundred words of the ,french      
language2 and these they pronounce with 
an  idiom exclusively their own1 adding 
to each an oath1 by way of epithet2  a  
habit so inveterate with them1 that even
 at confession1 at the moment  of       
seeking absolution for the practice1 it 
is no uncommon thing with  them to swear
 they will be guilty of it no more4 ,to 
balance1 however1  this defect1 their   
morals are uncorrupted1 their fidelity  
is exemplary1  and they are laborious   
and charitable1 and zealous for the     
honor of  their country1 in whose cause 
they often bleed1 as well as for their  
priests1 in defence of whom they once   
threatened to throw the ,archbishop  of 
,rouen into the river1 and were well    
nigh executing their threats4           
,footnotes3    #a ,the chalk in the     
cliff1 in the immediate vicinity of     
,dieppe1 is  divided at intervals of    
about two feet each by narrow strata of 

flint1  generally horizontal1 and       
composed in some cases of separate      
nodules1  which are not uncommonly      
split1 in others of a continuous        
compressed  mass1 about two or three    
inches thick and of very uncertain      
extent1 but  the strata are not regular4
    #b ,goube ,histoire de ,normandie1  
,,iii4 p4 #ahh4--;,in ,cadet ,gassicourt
  ,lettres sur ,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #fh1  
the story of ,bouzard is given still    
more at length4    #c ,histoire de      
,dieppe1 ,,ii4 p4 #ef4                  
,illustration3 ,entrance to the ,castle 
at ,dieppe    ,,letter ,,ii4            
,,dieppe--,,castle--,,churches--,,histor
y ,,of ,,the ,,place--,,feast ,,of ,,the
 ,,assumption4      7,dieppe1 ,june1    
#ahah47    ,the bombardment of this     
town1 alluded to in my last1 was so     
effectual in  its operation1 that1      
excepting the castle and the two        
churches1 the  place can boast of little
 to arrest the attention of the         
antiquary1 or  of the curious traveller4

 ,these three objects were indeed almost
 all  that escaped the conflagration2   
and for this they were indebted to their
  insulated situations1 the first on an 
eminence unconnected with the  houses of
 the place1 the other two in their      
respective cemeteries4    ,the hill on  
which the castle stands is steep2 and   
the building1 as well  from its         
position1 as from its high walls1       
flanked with towers and  bastions1 has  
an imposing appearance4 ,in its general 
outline it bears a  resemblance to the  
castle of ,stirling1 but it has not the 
same claims to  attention in an         
architectural point of view4 ,it is a   
confused mass of  various ras1 and its  
parts are chiefly modern3 nor is there  
any single  feature that deserves to be 
particularized for beauty or            
singularity2  yet1 as a whole1 a        
picturesque and pleasing effect results 
from the very  confusion and            
irregularity of its towers1 roofs1 and  
turrets2 and this  is also enhanced by a

 row of lofty arches1 thrown across a   
ravine near  the entrance1 supporting   
the bridge1 and appearing at a distance 
like  the remains of a ,roman aqueduct4 
,what seems to be the most ancient part 
is a high quadrangular tower with lofty 
pointed pannels in the four  walls2 and 
though inferior in antiquity1 an        
observer accustomed only to  the        
,english castellated style1 is struck by
 the variety of numerous  circular      
towers with conical roofs1 resembling   
those which flanked the  gates of the   
town4 ,some of these gates still remain 
perfect2 and one of  them1 leading to   
the sea1 now serves as a military       
prison4 ,it was the  ,sieur des         
,marts#d1 the first governor of the     
place1 who began this  castle shortly   
after the year #addc1 when ,louis the   
,x,ith1 then dauphin1  freed ,dieppe    
from the dominion of the ,english1      
attacking in person1 and  carrying by   
assault1 the formidable fortress1       
constructed by ,talbot1 in  the suburb  

of ,pollet4 ,of this1 not a vestige now 
remains3 the whole was  levelled with   
the ground in #afhi2 though1 at a period
 of one hundred and  twenty years after 
it was originally taken and dismantled1 
it had again  been made a place of      
strength by the ,huguenots1 and had been
 still  further fortified under ,henry  
,i,vth1 in whose reign the present      
castle  was completed2 for it was not   
till this time that permission was given
  to the inhabitants to add to it a     
keep4 ,in its perfect state1 whilst     
defended by this keep1 and still further
 protected by copious out-works  and    
bomb-proof casemates1 its strength was  
great2 but the period of its  power was 
of short duration2 for the then         
perturbed state of ,france  naturally   
gave rise to anxiety on the part of the 
government1 lest  fortresses should     
serve as rallying points to the faction 
of the league2  and the castle of       
,dieppe was consequently left with      
little more than  the semblance of its  

former greatness4    ,of the churches   
here1 that of ,st4 ,jaques is           
considerably the finest  building1 and  
is indeed an excellent specimen of what 
has been called  the decorated ,english 
style of architecture1 the style of this
 church  nearly coinciding in its       
principal lines with that which         
prevailed in  our own country during the
 reigns of the second and third ,edward4
 ,it was  begun about the year #abfj1   
but was little advanced at the          
commencement  of the following century2 
nor were its nineteen chapels1 the works
 of  the piety of individuals1 completed
 before #acej4 ,the roof of the choir   
remained imperfect till ninety years    
afterwards1 whilst that of the  transept
 is as recent as #afbhe4 ,the most      
ancient work is discernible  in the     
transepts1 but the lines are obscured by
 later additions4 ,a  cloister gallery  
fronted by delicate mullions runs round 
the nave and  choir1 and the extent and 
arrangement of the exterior would induce

 a  stranger1 unacquainted with the     
history of the building1 to suppose that
  he was entering a conventual or       
cathedral church4 ,the parts long most  
generally admired by the ,french1 though
 they have always been miserable  judges
 of gothic architecture1 were the       
vaulted roof1 and the pendants  of the  
,lady-,chapel4 ,the latter were         
originally ornamented with female       
figures1 representing the ,sibyls1 made 
of colored terra cotta1 and of  such    
excellent workmanship1 that ,cardinal   
,barberini1 when he visited  this chapel
 in #afdg1 declared he had seen nothing 
of the kind1 not even  in ,italy1       
superior to them for the beauty and     
delicacy of their  execution2 but they  
are now gone1 and1 according to ,noel#f1
 were  destroyed at the time of the     
bombardment4 ,the state1 however1 of the
  roof does not seem to warrant this    
observation2 and1 contrary also to  what
 he says1 the pendants between the      
,lady-,chapel and the choir are  still  

perfect1 and serve1 together with       
numerous small canopies in the  chapel  
itself1 to give a clear idea of what the
 whole must have been  originally4 ,one 
of the most elegant of the decorations  
of the church is  a spirally-twisted    
column1 elaborately carved1 with a      
peculiarly  fanciful and beautiful      
capital1 placed against a pillar that   
separates  the two south-eastern chapels
 of the choir4 ,the richest object is a 
stone-screen to a chantry on the north  
side1 which is divide into  several     
canopies1 whose upper part is still full
 of a profusion of  sculpture1 though   
the lower is sadly mutilated4 ,i could  
not ascertain  its history or use2 but  
,i do not suppose it is of earlier date 
than the  age of ,francis ,ist1 as the  
,roman or ,italian style is blended with
 the  ,gothic arch4 ,the ,chapel of the 
,sepulchre1 is not uncommonly pointed   
out  as an object of admiration4 ,there 
is certainly some1 handsome sculpture   
round the portal2 but it is not this for

 which your admiration is  required3 you
 are told that the chapel was made in   
#afab1 at the expence  of a traveller1  
then just returned from ,palestine1 and 
that it offers a  faithful              
representation of the ,holy ,sepulchre  
itself at ,jerusalem2 by  which if we   
are to understand that the wretched1    
grisly1 painted1 wooden  figures of the 
three ,maries1 and other holy women and 
holy men1  assembled round a disgusting 
representation of the dead ,saviour1    
have  their prototype in ,judea1 ,i can 
only add ,i am sorry for it3 for my own 
part1 putting aside all question of the 
propriety or effect of  symbolical      
worship1 and meaning nothing offensive  
to the ,romish faith1 ,i  must be       
allowed to say that most assuredly ,i   
can conceive nothing less  qualified to 
excite feelings of devotion1 or more    
certain to awaken  contempt and         
loathing1 than the images of this       
description1 the  tinselled virgins1 and
 the wretched daubs1 nick-named         

paintings1 which  abound in the churches
 of ,picardy and ,normandy1 the only    
catholic  provinces which ,i have yet   
visited2 so that1 if the taste of the   
inhabitants is to be estimated by the   
decoration of the religious  buildings1 
this faculty must be rated very low     
indeed4 ,the exterior of  the church is 
as richly ornamented as the inside2 and 
not a buttress1  arch1 or canopy is     
without the remains of crumbled carving1
 worn by  time1 or disfigured by the    
ruder hand of calvinistic or            
revolutionary  violence4 ,tradition     
refers the erection of this edifice to  
the ,english4  ,from the certainty with 
which a date may be assigned to almost  
every  part1 it is very interesting to  
the lover of architecture4 ,the         
,lady-,chapel is also perhaps one of the
 last specimens of ,gothic art1 but     
still very pure1 except in some of the  
smaller ornaments1 such1 as the  niches 
in the tabernacles1 which end in escalop
 shells4    ,illustration3 ,font in the 

,church of ,st4 ,remi1 at ,dieppe       
,the other church is dedicated to ,st4  
,remi1 and is a building of the         
,x,v,i,ith century2 though1 judging from
 some of its pillars1 it would be       
pronounced considerably more ancient4   
,those of the transept and of the       
central tower are lofty and clustered1  
and of extraordinary thickness2  the    
rest are circular and plain1 and not    
very unlike the columns of our  earliest
 ,norman or ,saxon churches1 though of  
greater proportionate  altitude4 ,the   
capitals of those in the choir are      
singularly capricious1  with figures1   
scrolls1 c42 but it is the              
capriciousness of the gothic  verging   
into ,grecian1 not of the ,norman4 ,on  
the pendants of the nave are  painted   
various ornaments1 each accompanied by a
 mitre4 ,the eastern has  only a mitre  
and cross1 with the date #affi2 the     
western the same1 with  #afff2 denoting 
the ra of the edifice1 which was        
scarcely finished1 when  a bomb1 in     

#afid1 destroyed the roof of the choir1 
and this remains to  the present hour   
incomplete4 ,the most remarkable object 
in the church is  a bnitier of coarse   
red granite1 on whose basin is an       
inscription1 to  me illegible4 ,the     
annexed sketches will give you some idea
 of it3    ,illustration3 ,sketch of    
inscription    ,in the letters one looks
 naturally for a date3 the figures that 
alternate with them are probably mitres1
 and1 like those on the roof1  indicate 
the supreme jurisdiction of the         
,archbishop of ,rouen in the  place4    
,dieppe itself is1 by its own           
historians#g1 said to boast an origin as
  early as the days of ,charlemagne#h1  
who is reported to have built a         
fortress on the scite of the present    
town1 and to have called it             
,bertheville1 in honor of the ,berthas1 
his mother and his daughter4            
,bertheville was one of the first places
 taken by the ,normans1 by whom  the    
appellation was changed to ,dyppe or    

,dieppe1 a word which in their  language
 is said to signify a good anchorage4   
,other writers#i1 however1  treat the   
whole of the early chronicle of ,dieppe 
as a fiction1 and  maintain1 that even  
at the beginning of the ,x,ith century  
the town had no  existence1 and the     
place was only known as the port of     
,arques1 within  whose territory it was 
comprehended2 nor was it till the end of
 the same  century that the inhabitants 
of ,arques were1 partly from the        
convenience  of the fisheries1 and      
partly from the advantages of the salt  
trade1  induced to form this settlement4
 ,whatever date may be assigned to the  
foundation of ,dieppe1 it is frequently 
contended that ,william the  ,conqueror 
embarked here for the invasion of       
,england1 and it seems  undoubted that  
he sailed hence for his new kingdom in  
the next year1  agreeably to the        
following passage from ,ordericus       
,vitalis1 7p4 #eji7 by  which you will  
observe1 that the river had at that time

 the same name as  the town1 ,deinde    
sext nocte ,decembris ad ostium amnis   
,depp ultra  oppidtim ,archas accessit1 
primque vigili gelid noctis ,austro vela
  dedit1 et mane portum oppositi        
littoris1 7quem ,vvicenesium vocitant7  
prospero cursu arripuit4 ,in #aahh1 our 
,henry ,,ii built a castle upon the     
same hill on which the present fortress 
stands4 ,this strong hold1  however1    
afforded little protection2 for we find 
that1 in #aaie1 ,philip  ,augustus of   
,france1 entering ,normandy with an     
hostile army1 laid siege  to ,dieppe1   
and set fire not only to the town1 but  
also to the shipping  in the harbor4    
,two years subsequently to this event1  
,dieppe ceased to  form a part of the   
demesne of the ,sovereign of the ,duchy4
 ,richard the  ,ist had given great     
offence to ,walter1 ,archbishop of      
,rouen1 by  persisting in the erection  
of ,chteau ,gaillard1 in the vicinity of
  ,andelys1 which belonged to the       
archbishop in right of his see2 and     

though our lion-hearted monarch was not 
appalled either by the papal  interdict 
or by the showers of blood that fell    
upon his workmen1 yet at  length he     
thought it advisable to purchase at once
 the forgiveness of  the prelate and the
 secular seignory of ,andelys1 by       
surrendering to him1  as an equivalent1 
the towns and lordships of ,dieppe and  
,louviers1 the  land and forest of      
,alihermont1 the land and lordship of   
,bouteilles1 and  the mills of ,rouen4  
,this exchange was regarded as so great 
a subject of  triumph to the archbishop1
 that he caused the memory of it to be  
perpetuated by inscriptions upon crosses
 in various parts of ,rouen1 some  of   
which remained as late as #afaj1 when   
,taillepied wrote his ,recueil  des     
,antiquitz et ,singularitz de la ,ville 
de ,rouen4 ,the following  lines are    
given as one of these inscriptions in   
the ,gallia  ,christiana#aj3            
,vicisti1 ,galtere1 tui sunt signa      
triumphi       ,deppa1 ,locoveris1      

,alacris-mons1 ,butila1 molta1          
,deppa maris portus1 ,alacris-mons locus
 amoenus1       ,villa ,locoveris1 rus  
,butila1 molta per urbem4               
,hactenus hc ,regis ,richardi jura      
fuere2       ,hc rex sancivit1 hc papa1 
tibique tuere#aa4    ,nor was this the  
only memorial of the fact2 for the      
advantages of the  exchange were so     
generally recognized1 that the name of  
,walter became  proverbial2 and to this 
day it is said in ,normandy of a man who
  over-reaches another1 c'est un fin    
,gautier4 ,it might be inferred from    
the terms of the bargain in which       
,dieppe merely appears as one of the    
items of the account1 that it was then a
 place of little consequence2  yet1 one 
of the old chroniclers speaks of it at  
the time it was taken by  the ,french   
under ,philip ,augustus1 as             
portus fam celeberrimus atque           
,villa potens opibus4    ,these         
historians1 however1 of former days are 
not always the most  accurate2 but from 

this period the annals of the place are 
preserved1  and at certain epochs it is 
far from unimportant in ,french history3
 as1  when ,talbot raised in #addb the  
fortress called the ,bastille1 a defence
  so strong and in so well-chosen a     
situation1 that even ,vauban honored    
its memory by lamenting its destruction2
 when the inhabitants fought  with the  
,flemings in the channel1 in #aeee2 when
 ,henry ,i,vth1 with an army  of less   
than four thousand men1 fled hither in  
#aehi1 as to his last  place of refuge1 
winning the hearts of the people by his 
frank  address3--,mes amis1 point de    
crmonie1 je ne demande que vos coeurs1  
bon pain1 bon vin1 et bon visage d'htes2
 and when1 as ,i have already           
mentioned1 the town sustained from our  
fleet a bombardment of three  days'     
duration1 and was reduced by it to      
ashes4    ,for the excellence of its    
sailors1 ,dieppe has at all times been  
renowned3 no less an authority than the 
,president de ,thou has pronounced  them

 to be men1 penes quos prcipua rei      
nautic gloria semper fuit2  and they    
have proved their claims to this        
encomium1 not only by having  supplied  
to the navy of ,france the celebrated   
,abraham ,du ,quesne1 the  successful   
rival of the great ,ruyter1 but still   
more so by having taken  the lead in    
expeditions to ,florida#ab2 by having   
established a colony  for the promotion 
of the fur trade in ,canada1 if indeed  
they were not  the original discoverers 
of that country2 and by having been the 
first  ,christians who ever made a      
settlement on the coast of ,senegal4    
,this  last-mentioned event took place1 
according to ,french writers1 at as     
early a period as the ,x,i,vth century2 
and1 though the establishment was  not  
of long duration1 its effects have been 
permanent2 for it is owing  to the      
consignments of ivory then made to      
,dieppe1 that many of the  inhabitants  
were induced to become workers in that  
substance2 a trade  which they preserve 

to the present time1 and carry the art  
to such  perfection that they have few  
rivals4 ,this and the making of lace are
  the principal employments of such of  
the natives as are not engaged in  the  
fishery4 ,in the earlier ages of the    
,duchy1 the inhabitants of the  ,pays de
 ,caux found a more effectual and       
important employment in the  salt-works 
which were then very numerous on the    
coast1 but which have  long since been  
suffered to fall into decay4 ,ancient   
charters1 recorded  in the ,neustria    
,pia1 trace these works on the coast of 
,dieppe1 and at  ,bouteilles on the     
right of the valley of ,arques1 to as   
remote a period  as #ajbg2 and they at  
the same time prove the existence of a  
canal  between ,dieppe and ,bouteilles1 
by which in #acij vessels loaded with   
salt  were wont to pass4 ,but here1 as  
in ,england1 such works have been       
abandoned1 from the greater facility of 
communication between distant  places1  
and of obtaining salt by other means4   

,at present the only manufacture on the 
beach is that of kelp1 for which  a     
large quantity of the coarser sea-weeds 
is burned2 but the fisheries1  which are
 not carried on with equal energy in any
 other port of ,france1  are the chief  
support of the place4 ,the sailors of   
,dieppe were not  confined to their own 
seas2 for they used to pursue the cod   
fishery on  the coast of ,newfoundland  
with considerable success4 ,the herring 
fishery  however was a greater staple2  
and previously to the revolution1 when  
alone a just estimate could be formed of
 such matters1 the quantity of  herrings
 caught by the boats belonging to       
,dieppe averaged more than  eight       
thousand lasts a year1 and realized     
above #ajj1jjj4 ,this fishery  is said  
to have been established here as early  
as the ,x,ith century#ac4  ,from sixty  
to eighty boats1 each of about thirty   
tons and carrying  fifteen men1 were    
annually sent to the eastern coast of   
,england about  the end of ,august2 and 

then1 again1 in the middle of ,october  
nearly  double the quantity of vessels1 
but of a smaller size1 were engaged in  
the same pursuit on their own shores1   
where the fish by this time  repair4    
,the mackerel fishery was an object of  
scarcely less importance  than that of  
herrings1 producing in general about one
 hundred and  seventy thousand barrels  
annually4 ,great quantities of these    
fish are  eaten salted and dried1 in    
which state they afford a general       
article of  food among the lower classes
 in ,normandy4 ,surely this would be    
deserving  of the attention and         
imitation of our merchants at home4     
,during the war  with ,england this     
branch of trade necessarily suffered2   
but ,napolon did  every thing in his    
power to assist the town1 by giving it  
peculiar  advantages as to ships sailing
 under licences4 ,he succeeded in his   
views2 and1 thus patronized1 ,dieppe    
flourished exceedingly1 and the  gains  
brought in by the privateers connected  

with the port1 added not a  little to   
its prosperity4 ,hence to this hour the 
inhabitants regret the  peace1 although 
the town cannot fail to be benefitted by
 the fresh  impulse given to the        
fisheries1 and the quantity of money    
circulated by  the travellers who are   
continually passing4 ,napolon intended  
also to  bestow an additional boon upon 
the place4 ,a canal had been projected  
many years ago1 in the time of the      
,marchal de ,vauban1 and was to have    
extended to ,pontoise1 through the      
fertile districts of ,gournay and       
,neufchtel1 and to have communicated by 
different branches with the  ,seine and 
,oise4 ,this plan1 which had been       
forgotten during so many  reigns1       
,napolon determined to carry into       
effect1 and the excavations  were       
actually begun under his orders4 ,but   
the events which succeeded his  ,russian
 campaign put a stop to this1 as to all 
similar labors3 the plan  is now1       
however1 again in agitation1 and1 if    

performed1 ,dieppe will soon  become one
 of the most important ports in ,france4
    ,by the revolution ,dieppe was      
emancipated from the dominion of the    
,archbishop of ,rouen1 who1 by virtue of
 the cession made by ,richard ,coeur  de
 ,lion1 exercised a despotic sway1 even 
until the dissolution of the  ancien    
rgime4 ,his privileges were oppressive1 
and he had and made use  of the right of
 imposing a variety of taxes1 which     
extended even to the  articles of       
provision imported either by land or    
sea4 ,yet it must be  admitted that the 
progress of civilization had previously 
done much  towards the removal of the   
most obnoxious of the abuses4 ,the      
times1  happily1 no longer existed1     
when1 as in the ,x,i,ith century1 the   
prelate1  with a degree of indecency    
scarcely to be credited1 especially     
under an  ecclesiastical government1 did
 not scruple to convert the wages of sin
  into a source of revenue1 as          
scandalous in its nature as it must have

  been contemptible in its amount1 by   
exacting from every prostitute a  weekly
 tax of a farthing1 for liberty to      
exercise her profession#ad4    ,many    
uncouth and frivolous ecclesiastical    
rites and ceremonies of the  middle     
ages1 which good sense had banished from
 most other parts of  ,france1 where    
they once were common1 still lingered in
 the archbishop's  seignory4 ,thus1 at  
no very remote period1 it was customary 
on the ,feast  of ,pentecost to cast    
burning flakes of tow from the vaulting 
of the  church2 this stage-trick being  
considered as a representation of the   
descent of the fiery tongues4 ,the      
,virgin1 the great idol of popery1 was  
honored by a pageant1 which was         
celebrated with extraordinary splendor2 
and as ,i must initiate you in the      
mysteries of ,catholicism1 ,i think you 
will be well pleased to receive a       
detailed account of it4 ,the ceremony ,i
  consider as curiously illustrative of 
the manners of the rulers1 of the       

ruled1 and of the times2 and ,i will    
only add1 by way of preface1 that it    
was instituted by the governor1 ,des    
,marts1 in #addc1 in honor of the  final
 expulsion of the ,english1 and that he 
himself consented to be the  first      
master of the ,guild of the ,assumption1
 under whose auspices and  direction it 
was conducted4--,about ,midsummer the   
principal inhabitants  used to assemble 
at the ,htel de ,ville1 and there they  
selected the girl  of the most exemplary
 character1 to represent the ,virgin    
,mary1 and with  her six other young    
women1 to act the parts of the          
,daughters of ,sion4  ,the honor of     
figuring in this holy drama was greatly 
coveted2 and the  historian of ,dieppe  
gravely assures us1 that the earnestness
 felt on the  occasion mainly           
contributed to the preservation of that 
purity of  manners and that genuine     
piety1 which subsisted in this town     
longer than  in any other of ,france6   
,but the election of the ,virgin was not

  sufficient3 a representative of ,st4  
,peter was also to be found among the   
clergy2 and the laity were so far       
favored that they were permitted to     
furnish the eleven other apostles4 ,this
 done1 upon the fourteenth of  ,august  
the ,virgin was laid in a cradle of the 
form of a tomb1 and was  carried early  
in the morning1 attended by her suite of
 either sex1 to  the church of ,st4     
,jacques2 while before the door of the  
master of the  guild was stretched a    
large carpet1 embroidered with verses in
 letters  of gold1 setting forth his own
 good qualities1 and his love for the   
holy  ,mary4 ,hither also1 as soon as   
,laudes had been sung1 the procession   
repaired from the church1 and then they 
were joined by the governor of  the     
town1 the members of the guild1 the     
municipal officers1 and the  clergy of  
the parish of ,st4 ,remi4 ,thus         
attended1 they paraded the town1        
singing hymns1 which were accompanied by
 a full band4 ,the procession was       

increased by the great body of the      
inhabitants2 and its impressiveness  was
 still farther augmented by numbers of  
the youth of either sex1 who  assumed   
the garb and attributes of their patron 
saints1 and mixed in the  immediate     
train of the principal actors4 ,they    
then again repaired to the  church1     
where ,te ,deum was sung by the full    
choir1 in commemoration of  the victory 
over the ,english1 and high mass was    
performed1 and the  ,sacrament          
administered to the whole party4 ,during
 the service1 a scenic  representation  
was given of the ,assumption of the     
,virgin4 ,a scaffolding  was raised1    
reaching nearly to the top of the dome1 
and supporting an  azure canopy intended
 to emulate the spangled vault of       
heaven2 and  about two feet below the   
summit of it appeared1 seated on a      
splendid  throne1 an old man as the     
image of the ,father ,almighty1 a       
representation  equally absurd and      
impious1 and which could alone be       

tolerated by the  votaries of the worst 
superstitions of popery4 ,on either side
 four  pasteboard angels of the size of 
men floated in the air1 and flapped     
their wings in cadence to the sounds of 
the organ2 while above was  suspended a 
large triangle1 at whose corners were   
placed three smaller  angels1 who1 at   
the intermission of each office1        
performed upon a set of  little bells   
the hymn of ,ave ,maria grati ,dei plena
 per ,secula1 c4  accompanied by a      
larger angel on each side with a        
trumpet4 ,to complete  this portion of  
the spectacle1 two others1 below the old
 man's feet1  held tapers1 which were   
lighted as the services began1 and      
extinguished  at their close2 on which  
occasions the figures were made to      
express  reluctance by turning quickly  
about2 so that it required some         
dexterity  to apply the extinguishers4  
,at the commencement of the mass1 two of
 the  angels by the side of the         
,almighty descended to the foot of the  

altar1  and1 placing themselves by the  
tomb1 in which a pasteboard figure of   
the  ,virgin had been substituted for   
her living representative1 gently raised
  it to the feet of the ,father4 ,the   
image1 as it mounted1 from time to  time
 lifted its head and extended its arms1 
as if conscious of the  approaching     
beatitude1 then1 after having received  
the benediction and  been encircled by  
another angel with a crown of glory1 it 
gradually  disappeared behind the       
clouds4 ,at this instant a buffoon1 who 
all the  time had been playing his      
antics below1 burst into an extravagant 
fit of  joy2 at one moment clapping his 
hands most violently1 at the next       
stretching himself out as if dead4      
,finally1 he ran up to the feet of the  
old man1 and hid himself under his legs1
 so as to shew only his head4  ,the     
people called him ,grimaldi1 an         
appellation that appears to have        
belonged to him by usage1 and it is a   
singular coincidence that the  surname  

of the noblest family of ,genoa the     
,proud1 thus assigned by the  rude      
rabble of a sea-port to their buffoon1  
should belong of right to  the sire and 
son1 whose mops and mowes afford pastime
 to the upper  gallery at               
,covent-,garden4    ,thus did the       
pageant proceed in all its grotesque    
glory1 and1 while--        ,these       
labor'd nothings in so strange a style  
,amazed the unlearned1 and made the     
learned smile1    the children shouted  
aloud for their favorite ,grimaldi2 the 
priests1  accompanied with bells1       
trumpets1 and organs1 thundered out the 
mass2  the pious were loud in their     
exclamations of rapture at the devotion 
of  the ,virgin2 and the whole church   
was filled with un non so che di rauco  
ed indistinto4--,but ,i have told you   
enough of this foolish story1 of  which 
it were well if the folly had been the  
worst4 ,the sequel was in  the same     
taste and style1 and ended with the     
euthanasia of all similar               

representations1 a hearty dinner4       
,footnotes3    #d ,description de la    
,haute ,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #acj4    #e   
,histoire de ,dieppe1 ,,ii4 p4 #hf4     
#f ,essals sur le ,dpartement de la     
,seine ,infrieure1 ,i4 p4 #aai4    #g   
,histoire de ,dieppe1 ,i4 p4 #a4    #h  
,another author1 mentioned by the ,abb  
,fontenu1 in the ,mmoires de  l',acadmie
 des ,inscriptions1 ,x4 p4 #dac1 carries
 the antiquity of the  place still eight
 centuries higher1 representing it as   
the ,portus  ,ictius1 whence ,julius    
,csar sailed for ,britain4    #i        
,description de la ,haute ,normandie1   
,i4 p4 #abe4    #aj ,vol4 ,,xi4 p4 #ee4 
#aa ,the deed itself under which this   
exchange was made is also  preserved in 
,duchesne's ,scriptores ,normanni1 and  
in the ,gallia  ,christiana1 ,,xi4      
,instr4 p4 #bg1 where it is entitled    
,celebris  commutatio facta inter       
,richardum ,i1 regem ,angli et          
,walterium  ,archiepisc4 ,rotomagensem4 
,it is worth remarking1 in illustration 

of  the feudal rights and customs1 how  
much importance is attached in this     
instrument to the mills and the         
seignorage for grinding3 the king       
expressly stipulates that every body tam
 milites qum clerici1 et omnes  homines1
 tam de feodis militum qum de prebendis1
 sequentur molendina de  ,andeli1 sicut 
consueverunt et debent1 et moltura erit 
nostra4  ,archiepiscopus autem et       
homines sui de ,fraxinis 7a manor       
specially  reserved17 molent ubi idem   
,archiepiscopus volet1 et si voluerit   
molere  apud ,andeli1 dabunt molturas   
suas1 sicut alii ibidem molentes4 ,in   
escambium autem 444 concessimus 444     
omnia molendina qu nos habuimus         
,rotomagi1 quando hc permutatio facta   
fuit1 integr cum omni sequel et  moltur 
su1 sine aliquo retinemento eorum qu ad 
molendinam pertinent  vel ad molturam1  
et cum omnibus libertatibus et liberis  
consuetudinibus  quas solent et debent  
habere4 ,nec alicui alii licebit        
molendinum facere  ibidem ad detrimentum

 prdictorum molendinorum2 et debet      
,archiepiscopus  solvere eleemosinas    
antiquits statutas de iisdem molendinis4
    #ab ,a very copious and interesting 
account of the nautical discoveries     
made by the inhabitants of ,dieppe1 and 
of their merits as sailors1 is  given by
 ,goube1 in his ,histoire du ,duch de   
,normandie1 ,,iii1 p4  #agb-agh4    #ac 
,goube1 ,histoire de ,normandie1 ,,iii1 
p4 #agj4    #ad ,noel1 ,essais sur le   
,dpartement de la ,seine ,infrieure1 ,i4
 p4  #aid4          ,,letter ,,iii4     
,c,,sar',s ,,camp--,,castle ,,of        
,,arques4      7,dieppe1 ,june1 #ahah7  
,after having explored ,dieppe1 ,i must 
now conduct you without the walls1  to  
the castle of ,arques and to ,csar's    
camp1 both of which are in its          
immediate neighborhood4 ,at some future 
time you may thank me for  pointing out 
these objects to you1 for should you    
ever visit ,dieppe1  your residence may 
be prolonged beyond your wishes1 by the 
usual  mischances which attend the      

traveller4 ,and in that case1 a walk to 
these  relics of military architecture  
will furnish a better employment than   
thumbing the old newspaper of the inn1  
or even than the contemplation of  the  
diligences as they come in1 or of the   
packets as they are not going  out1 for 
,i am anticipating that you are         
becalmed1 and that the pennons  are     
flagging from the mast4 ,with respect to
 my walk1 let me be allowed  to begin by
 introducing you to a friend of mine at 
,dieppe1 ,m4 ,gaillon1  an obliging1    
sensible1 and well-informed young man1  
as well as an ardent  botanist1 my      
companion in this walk1 and the source  
of much of the  information ,i possess  
respecting these places4 ,the           
intrenchment1  commonly known by the    
name of ,csar's camp1 or even more      
generally in  the country by that of la 
,cit de ,limes1 and in old writings1 of 
,civitas ,limarum1 is situated upon the 
brink of the cliff1 about two  miles to 
the east of ,dieppe1 on the road leading

 to ,eu1 and still  preserves in a state
 of perfection its ancient form and     
character2  though necessarily reduced  
in the height of its vallum by the      
operation  of time1 and probably also   
diminished in its size by the gradual   
encroachments of the ocean4 ,upon its   
shape1 which is an irregular  triangle1 
it may be well to make a preliminary    
observation1 that this  was necessarily 
prescribed by the scite2 and that1      
however the ,romans  might commonly     
prefer a square outline for their       
temporary encampments1  we have abundant
 proofs that they only adhered to this  
plan when it was  perfectly conformable 
to the nature of the ground1 but that   
when they  fortified any commanding     
position1 upon which a rectangular      
rampart  could not be seated1 their     
intrenchments were made to follow the   
sinuosities of the hill4 ,in the present
 instance the northern side1 the        
longest1 extending nearly five thousand 
feet1 fronts the channel1 and it        

required no other defence than was      
afforded by the perpendicular face of   
the cliff1 here more than two hundred   
feet in height4 ,the western side1  the 
second in length1 and not greatly       
inferior to the first1 after  running   
about three thousand feet from the sea1 
in a tolerably straight  line southward1
 suddenly bends to the east1 and forms  
two semi-circles1  of one of which the  
radius is turned from the camp1 and of  
the other  into it4 ,the third side is  
scarcely more than half the length of   
the  others1 and runs nearly straight   
from south to north1 where it again     
unites with the cliff4 ,of the two      
last-mentioned sides the first is       
difficult of access2 from its position  
at the summit of a steep hill2  but it  
is still protected by a vallum from     
thirty to forty feet high1  and between 
the sea and the entrance nearest to it1 
a length of about  three hundred yards1 
by a wide exterior ditch with other     
out-works1 as  well as by an inner      

fosse1 faint traces of which only now   
remain4 ,hence  to the next and large   
entrance is a distance of about two     
thousand feet2  and in this space the   
interior fosse is still very visible2   
but the  great abruptness of the hill   
forbade an outer one4    ,you1 who are  
not a stranger to the pleasures of      
botany1 would have  shared my delight at
 finding upon the perpendicular side of 
this  entrance the beautiful ,caucalis  
grandiflora1 growing in great           
luxuriance upon almost bare chalk1 and  
with its snowy flowers  resembling1 as  
you look down to it1 the common species 
of ,iberis of  our gardens4 ,the        
,asperula cynanchica1 and other plants  
peculiar to a  chalky soil1 are also    
found here in plenty1 together with the 
,eryngium  campestre1 a vegetable of    
extreme rarity in ,england1 but most    
abundant  throughout the north of       
,france4 ,papaver hybridum is likewise  
common in  the neighboring corn fields  
round4    ,returning from this short    

botanical digression1 let me tell you   
that the  position considered by some as
 the southern side of the fortification1
  but which ,i have described as the    
sinuous part of the western1 has its    
ramparts of less height4 ,not so the    
eastern3 on this1 as being the most     
destitute of all natural defence1 7for  
here there is no hill1 and the  eye     
ranges over an immense level tract1     
stopped only by distant woods17  is     
raised an agger1 full forty-five feet in
 height1 and1 at a further  distance1 is
 added an outward trench nearly fifty   
feet wide1 though in  its present state 
not more than three feet deep1 and now  
serving for a  garden4    ,such is the  
external appearance of this camp1 which1
 seen from the sea1  or on the approach 
either by the west or south1 cannot fail
 to strike  from the boldness of its    
position2 but the effect of the interior
 is  still more striking2 for here1     
while on one side the horizon is lost in
  the immensity of the ocean1 on the    

other two the view is narrowly          
circumscribed by the lofty bulwark1 at  
whose feet are almost every where       
discernible the remains of the trenches 
,i have already noticed1 more  than     
thirty feet in width4 ,nor is this the  
only remarkable circumstance2  for it is
 still more unaccountable to observe1   
extending nearly across  the encampment1
 the traces of an ancient fosse not less
 than one hundred  and fifty feet wide1 
and1 though in most places shallow1     
terminating  towards the sea in a deep  
ravine4 ,internally the camp appears to 
have  been also divided into three      
parts1 in one of which it has been      
supposed1 from a heap of stones which   
till lately remained1 that there  was   
originally a place of greater strength2 
while in another1  distinguished by some
 irregular elevations1 it is conjectured
 that there  was a wall1 the defence    
probably to the keep4    ,illustration3 
,plan of ,csar's ,camp1 near ,dieppe    
,but ,i must tell you that these        

conjectures are none of my own1 nor     
could  ,i have had any opportunity of   
making them2 the stones and the hillocks
  having disappeared before the         
operations of the plough4 ,such as they 
are1 ,i have borrowed them from a       
dissertation by the ,abb de             
,fontenu#ae1 a copy of whose engraving  
of the place ,i insert4 ,indebted  as ,i
 am to him for his hints1 ,i can1       
however1 by no means subscribe to  his  
reasoning1 by which he labors with great
 erudition to prove that1  neither the  
popular tradition which ascribes this   
camp to ,csar1 nor  its name1 evidently 
,roman1 nor some coins and medals of the
 same nation  that have been found here1
 are at all evidences of its ,latin     
origin2 but  that1 as we have no proof  
that ,csar was ever in the vicinity of  
,dieppe1 as the whole is in such        
excellent preservation1 7a point ,i beg 
leave to deny17 and as the vallum is    
full thrice the height of that of  other
 ,roman encampments in ,france#af1 we   

are bound to infer it is a  work of far 
more modern times1 and probably was     
erected by ,talbot1 the  ,csar of the   
,english#ag1 while besieging ,dieppe in 
the middle of the  ,x,vth century4      
,this opinion of the learned ,abb ,i    
quote1 principally for the purpose of   
shewing how far a man of sense and      
acquirements maybe led astray from      
truth and probability in support of a   
favorite theory4 ,nothing but the  love 
of theory could surely have induced him 
to suppose that this strong  hold was   
erected for a purpose to which it could 
in no wise be  applicable1 as the       
intervening ground prevents all         
possibility of seeing  any part of      
,dieppe from the camp1 or to ascribe it 
to times when  earth-works were no      
longer used4 ,in ,normandy and ,picardy 
are other  camps1 more evidently of     
,roman construction1 which are likewise 
ascribed  to ,csar#ah2 with much the    
same reason perhaps as every thing      
wonderful in ,scotland is referred to   

,fingal1 to ,king ,arthur in ,cornwall1 
and in the north of ,england and ,wales 
to the devil4    ,illustration3 ,general
 ,view of the ,castle of ,arques        
,upon the origin of the castle of       
,arques1 it is somewhat unfortunate for 
the learned that there is not an equal  
field for ingenious conjecture1  its    
antiquity being incontestible4 ,du      
,moulin1 the most comprehensive1  though
 the most credulous of ,norman          
historians1 one who1 not content  with  
dealing in miracles by wholesale1 tells 
us how the devil changed  himself into a
 postillion1 to apprize an              
alehouse-keeper of the fate of  the     
posterity of ,rollo1 may still be       
entitled to credit1 when the theme  is  
merely stone and mortar2 and from him we
 may conclude that ,arques  was a place 
of importance at the time of ,william   
the ,conqueror1 as it  gave the title of
 ,count to his uncle1 who then possessed
 it1 and who1  confiding perhaps in the 
strength of his fortress1 and secretly  

instigated by ,henry ,ist1 of ,france1  
usurped the title of ,duke of           
,normandy1 but was defeated by his      
nephew1 and finally obliged to          
surrender his castle4 ,this1 however1   
was not till1 after a long siege1  in   
which ,arques proved itself impregnable 
to every thing but famine4 ,in  the     
following reign1 we again find mention  
made of ,arques1 as a portion  given by 
,robert1 ,duke of ,normandy1 to induce  
,helie1 son of ,lambert of  ,st4 ,saen1 
to marry his illegitimate daughter1 and 
join him in defending  the ,pays de     
,caux against the ,english4 ,from this  
period1 during the  reigns of the       
,anglo-,norman ,sovereigns1 it continues
 to be occasionally  noticed4 ,before   
the walls of ,arques1 according to      
,william of ,malmesbury1  ,baldwin1     
,count of ,flanders1 received the wound 
which afterwards proved  fatal4 ,arques 
was the last castle which held out in   
,normandy for ,king  ,stephen4 ,it was  
taken in #aagc1 by our ,henry ,i,ind1   

and then repaired2 was  seized by       
,philip ,augustus during the captivity  
of ,richard ,coeur de ,lion2  was       
restored to its legitimate sovereign at 
the peace in #aaif2 and was a  source of
 disgrace to its former captor1 when in 
#abjb he laid siege to  it with a       
powerful army1 and was obliged to       
retreat from its walls4  ,under the     
reign of our third ,edward1 we find it  
again return to the  ,british crown1 as 
one of the castles specified to be      
surrendered to the  ,english1 by the    
treaty of ,bretigny1 in #acei2 after    
which1 in #adai1 it  was taken by       
,talbot and ,warwick1 and was finally   
given up to ,france by  one of the      
articles of the capitulation of ,rouen  
in #addi4 ,more  recently1 in #aehdai1  
it was captured by a party of soldiers  
disguised  like sailors1 who1 being     
suffered to approach without distrust1  
put the  sentinels to the sword1 and    
made themselves masters of the fortress2
  while in #aehi it obtained its last   

and most honorable distinction1 as  the 
chief support of ,henry ,i,vth1 at the  
time of his being received at  ,dieppe1 
and as having by the cannon from its    
ramparts1 materially  contributed to the
 glorious defeat of the army of the     
league1 commanded  by the ,duke de      
,mayenne1 when thirty thousand were     
compelled to retire  before one tenth of
 the number4 ,i have already mentioned  
to you the  address of this king to the 
citizens of ,dieppe3 still more         
magnanimous  was his speech to his      
prisoner1 the ,count de ,belin1         
previously to this  battle1 when1 on the
 captive's daring to ask1 how with such 
a handful of  men1 he could expect to   
resist so powerful an army1 ,ajoutez1 he
  answered1 aux troupes que vous voyez1 
mon bon droit1 et vous ne  douterez plus
 de quel ct sera la victoire4    ,in    
,sully's ,memoirs#bj1 as well as in the 
history of the town of  ,dieppe1 you    
will find these transactions described  
at much length1 and  the warrior1 as    

well as the historian1 expatiates on the
 strength of the  castle of ,arques2 but
 how much longer it remained a place of 
consideration ,i have no means of       
knowing3 most probably the alteration   
introduced into the art of war by the   
use of cannon1 caused it to be  soon    
after neglected1 and dismantled1 and    
suffered to fall gradually  into its    
present state of ruin4 ,it is now the   
property of a lady  residing in the     
neighboring town of ,arques1 who        
purchased it during the  revolution1 and
 by her good sense and feeling it has   
been preserved from  further injury4    
,the castle is situated at the extremity
 of a ridge of  chalk hills1 which1     
commencing to the west of ,dieppe1 run  
nearly  parallel to the sea1 and here   
terminate to the east1 so that it has a 
complete command over the valley4       
,standing by its walls1 you have to the 
north-west a full view of the town of   
,dieppe2 in an opposite direction  the  
eye ranges uncontrolled over a rich vale

 of corn and pasturage2 and  in front1  
immediately at your feet1 lies the town 
of ,arques itself1  backed by the hills 
that are covered by the forest of the   
same name4  ,either this forest1 or the 
neighboring one of ,eavy1 is supposed to
 have  been the ancient ,arelanum4 ,the 
little river called the ,arques flows   
through the valley1 and beneath the     
walls of the castle is lost in the      
,bthune1 under which name the united    
waters continue their course to         
,dieppe1 after receiving the tribute of 
a third1 yet smaller1 stream1 the       
,eaulne4    ,of the power of the castle 
an idea may be formed from the extent of
 the  fosse1 little less than half a    
mile in circumference4 ,the outline of  
the  walls is irregularly oval1 and the 
even front is interrupted by towers  of 
various sizes1 and placed at unequal    
distances4 ,on the northern side1  where
 the hill is steepest1 there are no     
towers2 but the walls are still  farther
 strengthened by square buttresses1 so  

large that they indeed  look like       
bastions1 and with a projection so great
 as to indicate an  origin posterior to 
the ,norman ra4 ,the two towers which   
flank the  western entrance1 and the    
towers which stand behind each of the   
flanking  towers in the retiring line of
 the wall1 are much larger than any of  
the  rest4 ,one of the latter towers is 
of so extraordinary a shape1 that ,i    
consider it as a non-descript2 but1 as  
,i should tire both you and myself  by  
endeavoring to describe it1 ,i think it 
most prudent to refer you to a  sketch3 
perhaps its angular parts may not be    
coeval with the rest of the             
building#ba3 on this it would be        
impossible to decide positively1 so     
shattered1 impaired1 and defaced are the
 walls1 and so evidently is  their      
coating the work of different periods4  
,i fancied that in some  parts ,i could 
discern a mode of construction1 in      
layers of brick and  stone1 similar to  
that of ,roman buildings in our own     

country1 while  many of the bricks1 from
 their texture and shape1 appear also to
 be  ,roman4 ,tradition1 if we follow   
that delusive guide1 teaches us that we 
are contemplating a work of the middle  
of the eighth century1 and of one  of   
the sons of ,charles ,martel4 ,if we    
follow ,william of ,jumieges1 the       
,chronicle of ,st4 ,vandrille1 and      
,william of ,poitiers1 we ascribe it to 
the uncle and rival of the ,conqueror2  
other writers tell us that the  ruins   
arose under ,henry ,i,ind4 ,i dare not  
decide amongst such reverend            
authorities1 but ,i think ,i may infer1 
without the least disrespect  towards   
monks and chroniclers1 that the ,norman 
,arques now occupies the  place of a far
 more early structure1 and that a       
portion of the walls of  this latter was
 actually left in existence4 ,taken1    
however1 as a whole1  the castle is     
evidently a building of different ras2  
and it would be  extremely difficult1 if
 not impossible1 to define the parts    

belonging to  each4    ,illustration3   
,tower of remarkable shape in ,castle of
 ,arques    ,the principal entrance is  
to the west1 between the two towers     
first  mentioned1 over a draw-bridge1   
whose piers still remain1 and through   
three gateways1 whose arches1 though now
 torn and dislocated into  shapeless    
rents1 seem to have been circular1 and  
probably of ,norman  erection4 ,one of  
the towers of the gate-way appears      
formerly to have  been a chapel4 ,hence 
you pass into a court1 whose surface1   
uneven with  the remains of foundations1
 marks it to have been originally filled
 with  apartments1 and1 at the opposite 
end of this1 through a square           
gate-house with high embattled walls1 a 
place evidently of great  strength1 and 
leading into a large open space that    
terminated in the  quadrangular and     
lofty keep4 ,this1 which is externally  
strengthened by  massy buttresses1      
similar to those of the walls1 is within
 divided into  two apartments1 each of  

them about fifty feet by twenty4 ,in one
 of them  is a well1 communicating with 
a reservoir below1 which is filled by   
the  water of the river1 and was        
sufficiently capacious for watering the 
horses of the garrison4 ,the greatest   
part1 if not the whole1 of the  walls   
seems to have been faced with brick of  
comparatively modern date4  ,the keep   
also was coated with brick within1 and  
with stones carefully  squared without4 
,the windows are so battered1 that no   
idea can be formed  of their original   
style4 ,the walls of the keep are filled
 with small  square apertures4 ,at      
,rochester1 and at many other castles in
 ,england1 we  observe the same2 and    
unless you can give a better guess      
respecting  their use1 you must content 
yourself with mine3 that is to say1 that
  they are merely the holes left by the 
scaffolding4 ,at the foot of the  hill  
to the west is a gate-house1 by no means
 ancient1 from which a wall  ascends to 
the castle2 and another similar wall    

connects the fortress  with the ground  
below1 on the north-eastern side2 but   
the extent or  nature of these out-works
 can no longer be traced4 ,still less   
possible  would it be to say any thing  
with certainty as to the excavations1 of
  the length of which1 tradition speaks1
 as usual1 in extravagant terms1  and   
mixes sundry marvellous and frightful   
tales with the recital4    ,in the      
general plan a great resemblance is to  
be traced between many  castles in      
,wales and its frontiers1 especially    
,goodrich ,castle1 and this  at ,arques4
 ,yet ,i do not think that any of ours  
are of an equal extent2  nor can you    
well conceive a more noble object than  
this1 when seen at a  distance3 and it  
is only then that the eye can comprehend
 the vast  expanse and strength of the  
external wall1 with the noble keep      
towering  high above it4                
,illustration3 ,church at ,arques       
,until the revolution1 the decaying town
 of ,arques was not wholly  deprived of 

all the vestiges of its former honours3 
the standards of the  weights and       
measures of ,upper ,normandy were       
deposited here4 ,it was the  seat of the
 courts of the ,archbishop of ,rouen1   
and1 though the actual  session of the  
municipal courts took place at ,dieppe1 
they bore the  legal style and title of 
the courts of ,arques4 ,since the       
revolution  these traces of its         
importance have wholly disappeared1 nor 
is there any  outward indication of the 
consequence once enjoyed by this poor   
and  straggling hamlet4    ,the church  
is a neat and spacious building1 of the 
same kind of  architecture as that of   
,st4 ,jacques1 at ,dieppe2 and1 as it is
 a good  specimen of the florid ,norman 
,gothic1 7,i forbid all cavils          
respecting  the employment of this term7
 ,i have added a figure of it4 ,my      
slender  researches have not enabled me 
to discover the date of the building1   
but  it may1 have been erected towards  
the year #acej4 ,a most elegant bracket1

  formed by the graceful dolphin1       
deserves the attention of the architect2
  and ,i particularize it1 not merely on
 account of its beauty1 but  because1   
even at the risk of exhausting your     
antiquarian patience1 ,i  intend to     
point out all architectural features    
which cannot be retraced  in our own    
structures2 and this is one of them4 ,by
 the way1 ,arques  contributed to       
increase the bulk of our herbal as well 
as of our  sketch-book1 for under the   
walls of the church is found the rare   
,erodium moschatum2 and near the castle 
grow ,astragalus glycyphyllos  and      
,melissa ,nepeta4    ,the field of      
battle is to the southward of the town4 
,a small walk under  the south wall of  
the castle1 near the east end1 adjoining
 a covered way  which led to a          
postern-gate or draw-bridge1 is still   
called the walk of  ,henry the ,i,vth1  
because it was here that this monarch   
was wont to  reconnoitre the enemy's    
forces from below4    ,napolon1 towards 

the conclusion of his reign1 visited the
 field of  battle at ,arques2 he        
ascertained the position of the two     
armies1 and  pronounced that the ,king  
ought to have lost the day1 for that his
  tactics were altogether faulty4 ,i am 
willing to suppose that this  military  
criticism arose merely from military    
pedantry1 though it is now  said that   
,napolon was envious of the veneration1 
which1 as the ,french  believe1 they    
feel for the memory of ,henri quatre4   
,napolon is accused  of having given the
 title of le ,roi de la ,canaille to the
 ,bourbon  ,monarch4 ,and when ,napolon 
was in full-blown pride1 he might have  
had  the satisfaction of hearing the    
rabble of ,paris chaunt his comparative 
excellence in a parody of the old       
national song--           ,vive         
,bonaparte1 vice ce conqurant1       ,ce
 diable  quatre a bien plus de talent   
,que ce ,henri quatre et tous ses       
descendans1    ,footnotes3    #ae       
,mmoires de l',acadmie des              

,inscriptions1 ,x4 p4 #djc4 tab4 #ae4   
#af ,such are the ,abb's principal      
arguments2 but he goes on to say1  that 
the height of the ramparts proves almost
 to demonstration their  having been    
erected since the use of fire-arms1 a   
mode of reasoning that  would1 ,i fear1 
be equally conclusive against the       
antiquity of a very  celebrated         
earth-work1 the ,devil's-,ditch1 in     
,cambridgeshire1 whose agger  is of     
about the same elevation1 but of whose  
modern origin nobody ever  yet          
dreamed2--that the ramparts opposite    
,dieppe could only be of use  against   
cannon1 another position equally        
untenable2--that1 were the camp  ,roman1
 there would be platforms on the agger  
for the reception of wooden  towers1 as 
if time would not wear away vestiges of 
this nature2--that  the disposition is  
not in regular order like that of a     
,roman encampment1  a matter equally    
liable to be defaced2--and1 finally1    
that the out-works  to the west are     

fully decisive of a more modern ra1 as  
if intrenchments  were not1 like        
buildings1 frequently the objects of    
subsequent  alterations2--,in his       
inferences he is followed1 and1         
apparently without  any question as to  
their authenticity1 by ,ducarel1 whom ,i
 suspect from  his description never to 
have visited the place4 ,the ,abb       
,fontenu1 in a  paper in the same       
volume1 gives it as his opinion that1   
from the term  ,civitas ,limarum1 it    
might safely be believed there was a    
city in  this place2 and he tries to    
persuade himself that he can trace the  
foundations of houses4    #ag ,noel1    
,essais sur le ,dpartment de la ,seine  
,infrieure1 ,i4 p4 #hh4    #ah ,the same
 is also notoriously the case in our own
 country3 popular  tradition1 by a      
metonymy very easily to be accounted    
for1 from a desire  of adding importance
 to its objects1 attributes whatever is 
,roman to  ,julius ,csar1 as the most   
illustrious of the ,roman generals in   

,england2  just as we daily hear        
smatterers in art referring to ,raphael 
any  painting1 however ordinary1 that   
pretends to issue from the schools of   
,rome or ,florence1 every ,bolognese one
 to ,guido or ,annibal ,carracci1  every
 ,kermes to ,ostade or ,teniers1 c4     
#ai ,noel1 ,essais sur la ,seine        
,infrieure1 ,i4 p4 #ih4    #bj ,sully1  
who was himself in this battle1 and bore
 a conspicuous part  in it1 dwells upon 
its details completely con amore1 and   
evidently  regards the issue of this day
 as decisive of the fate of the monarch1
  who is reported to have said of       
himself shortly before the battle1 that 
he was a king without a kingdom1 a      
husband without a wife1 and a  warrior  
without money4--,i4 p4 #bjd4    #ba ,in 
justice to my readers1 ,i must not here 
omit to say that such is  the opinion of
 a most able friend of mine1 ,mr4       
,cohen1 who visited this  castle nearly 
at the same time with myself1 and who   
writes me on the  subject3 ,i feel      

convinced that the brick coating of the 
wedge-tower  at ,arques is recent4 ,such
 was the impression ,i had upon the     
spot2 and  now ,i cannot remove it4 ,it 
appeared to me that the character of the
  brick-work1 and of the stone cordons  
or fillets1 was entirely like that  of  
the fortifications of the ,x,v,ith      
century2 and ,i also thought1 perhaps   
erroneously1 that the wedge or bastion  
was affixed to the round  tower of the  
castle1 and that it was an              
after-construction4 ,at the south  end  
of the castle1 you certainly see very   
ancient and singular masonry4  ,the     
diagonal or herring-bone courses are    
found in the old church of ,st4  ,lo1   
and in the keep at ,falaise2 not in the 
front of the latter1 but on  the side   
where you enter1 and on the side which  
ranges with ,talbot's  ,tower4 ,the same
 style of masonry is also seen1         
according to ,sir ,henry  ,englefield1  
at ,silchester1 which is most           
undoubtedly a pure ,roman  relic4--,it  

abounds likewise in ,colchester ,castle4
          ,,letter ,,iv4    ,,journey   
,,from ,,dieppe ,,to ,,rouen--,,priory  
,,of ,,longueville--,,rouen--,,bridge   
,,of  ,,boats--,,costume ,,of ,,the     
,,inhabitants4      7,rouen1 ,june1     
#ahah47    ,i arrived alone at this     
city3 my companions1 who do not always  
care to  keep pace with my              
constitutional impatience1 which        
sometimes amuses1 and  now and then     
annoys them1 made a circuit by ,havre1  
,bolbec1 and ,yvetot1  while ,i         
proceeded by the straight and beaten    
track4 ,what ,i have thus  gained in    
expedition1 ,i have lost in interest4   
,during the whole of the  ride1 there   
was not a single object to excite       
curiosity1 nor would any  moderate      
deviation from the line of road have    
brought me within reach of  any town or 
tower worthy of notice1 except the      
,priory of ,longueville1  situate to the
 right of the road1 about twelve miles  
from ,dieppe4 ,i did  not see           

,longueville1 and ,i am told that the   
ruins are quite  insignificant1 yet ,i  
regret that ,i did not visit them4 ,the 
,french can  never be made to believe   
that an old rubble wall is really and   
truly  worth a day's journey3 hence     
their reports respecting the notability 
of  any given ruin can seldom be        
depended upon4 ,and at least ,i should  
have  had the satisfaction of           
ascertaining the actual state of the    
remains of  a building1 known to have   
been founded and partly built in the    
year  #ajhd1 by ,walter ,giffard#bb1 one
 of the relations and companions of the 
,conqueror1 in his descent upon         
,england1 and therefore created ,earl of
  ,buckingham1 or1 as the ,french       
sometimes write it1 ,bou ,kin ,kan4 ,the
  title was held by his family only till
 #aafd when1 upon the decease of  his   
son without issue1 the lands of his     
barony were shared among the  collateral
 female heirs4 ,he himself died in      
#aajb1 and by his will  directed that   

his body should be brought here1 which  
was accordingly  done2 and he was       
buried1 as ,ordericus ,vitalis#bc tells 
us1 near the  entrance of the church1   
having over him an epitaph of eight     
lines1 in  maceri picturis decorat4 ,you
 will find the epitaph1 wherein he is   
styled templi fundator et dificator1    
copied both in the ,neustria  ,pia and  
in ,ducarel's ,anglo-,norman            
,antiquities4 ,the latter speaks of  it 
as if it existed in his time2 but the   
doctor seldom states the extent  of his 
obligations towards his predecessors4   
,and in consequence of this  his silent 
gratitude1 we can never tell with any   
degree of certainty  whether we are     
perusing his observations or his        
transcripts4 ,if he  really saw the     
inscriptions with his own eyes1 it is   
greatly to be  regretted that he has    
given us no information respecting the  
paintings3  did they still exist1 they  
would afford a most genuine and curious 
proof of the state of ,norman art at    

that remote period2 and possibly1 a     
search after them among the cottages in 
the neighborhood might even now  repay  
the industry of some keen antiquary2 for
 the ,french revolution may  well he    
compared to an earthquake3 it swallowed 
up every thing1  ingulphing some so deep
 that they are lost for ever1 but       
leaving others1  like hidden treasures1 
buried near the surface of the soil1    
whence  accident and labor are daily    
bringing them to light4 ,the descendants
 of  ,walter ,giffard are repeatedly    
mentioned as persons of importance in   
the  early ,norman writers2 nor are they
 less illustrious in ,england1 where    
the great family of ,clare sprung from  
one of the daughters2 while  another1 by
 her marriage with ,richard ,granville1 
gave birth to the  various noble        
families of that name1 of which the     
present ,marquis of  ,buckingham is the 
chief4    ,of the ,priory1 we are told  
in the ,neustria ,pia#bd1 that it was   
anciently of much opulence1 and that a  

,queen of ,france contributed  largely  
to the endowment of the house4 ,many men
 of eminence1  particularly three of the
 ,talbot family1 were buried within its 
walls4  ,peter ,megissier1 a prior of   
,longueville1 was in the number of the  
judges  who passed sentence of death    
upon the unfortunate ,joan of ,arc2 and 
the  inscription upon his tomb is so    
good a specimen of monkish ,latinity1   
that ,i am tempted to send it you2      
reminding you at the same time1 that    
this barbarous system of rhyming in     
,latin1 however brought to perfection   
by the monks and therefore generally    
called their own1 is not really of      
their invention1 but may be found1      
though quoted to be ridiculed1 in the   
first satire of ,persius1           ,qui
 videt hunc lapidem1 cognoscat qud tegit
 idem       ,petrum1 qui pridem         
conventum rexit ibidem       ,annis bis 
senis1 tumidis ,leo1 largus egenis1     
,omnibus indigenis charus fuit atque    
alienis4    ,i believe it is always     

expected1 that a traveller in ,france   
should say  something respecting the    
general aspect of the country and its   
agriculture4 ,i shall content myself    
with remarking1 that this part of       
,normandy is marvellously like the      
country which the ,conqueror conquered4 
,when the weather is dull1 the ,normans 
have a sober ,english sky1  abounding in
 ,indian ink and neutral tint4 ,and when
 the weather is fine1  they have a sun  
which is not a ray brighter than an     
,english sun4 ,the  hedges and ditches  
wear a familiar livery1 and the land    
which is fully  cultivated repays the   
toil of the husbandman with some of the 
most  luxuriant crops of wheat ,i ever  
saw4 ,barley and oats are not equally   
good1 perhaps from the stiffness of the 
soil1 which is principally of  chalk2   
but flax is abundant and luxuriant4 ,the
 surface of the ground is  undulated1   
and sufficiently so to make a pleasing  
alternation of hill  and dale2 hence it 
is agreeably varied1 though the hills   

never rise to  such a height as to be an
 obstacle to agriculture4 ,there is some
  difficulty in conjecturing where the  
people by whom the whole is kept in     
cultivation are housed2 for the number  
of houses by the road-side is           
inconsiderable2 nor did we1 for the     
first two-thirds of the ride1 pass      
through a single village1 excepting     
,ttes1 which lies mid-way between       
,dieppe1 and ,rouen1 and is of no great 
extent4 ,yet things in ,france are      
materially altered in this respect since
 #ahad1 when ,i remember that1 in  going
 through ,calais by the way of the ,low 
,countries to ,paris1 and  returning by 
the direct road to ,boullogne1 the whole
 journey was made  without seeing a     
single new house erecting in a space of 
four hundred  miles4 ,this is now far   
from being the case2 there is every     
where an  appearance of comparative     
prosperity1 and1 were it not for the    
coins1 of  which the copper bear the    
impress of the republic1 and the gold   

and  silver chiefly that of ,napolon1 a 
stranger would meet with but few        
visible marks of the changes experienced
 in late years by the government  of    
,france4 ,much has been also done of    
late towards ornamenting the  chteaux1  
of which there are several about ,ttes1 
though in the opinion  of an            
,englishman1 much also is yet wanting4  
,they are principally the  residences of
 ,rouen merchants4    ,upon approaching 
,malaunay1 about nine miles from ,rouen1
 the scene is  entirely changed4 ,the   
road descends into a valley1 inclosed   
between  steep hills1 whose sides are   
richly and beautifully clothed with     
wood1  while the houses and church of   
the village beneath add life and variety
  to the plain at the foot4 ,here the   
cotton manufactories begin1 and1 as  we 
follow the course of the little river   
,cailly1 the population  gradually      
increases1 and continues to become more 
dense through a series  of manufacturing
 villages1 each larger than the         

preceding1 and all  abounding in noble  
views of hill1 wood1 and dale2 while the
 tracts  around are thickly studded with
 picturesque residences of              
manufacturers1  and extensive1 often    
picturesque1 manufactories4 ,such indeed
 was the  country1 till we found        
ourselves at ,rouen1 shortly before     
entering which  the ,havre road unites  
to that from ,dieppe1 and the landscape 
also  embraces the valley of the ,seine1
 as well as of the ,cailly the former   
broader by far1 and grander1 but not    
more beautiful4    ,rouen1 from this    
point of view1 is seen to considerable  
advantage1 at  least by those who1 like 
us1 make a dtour to the north1 and enter
 it  in that direction3 the cathedral1  
,st4 ,ouen1 the hospital and church of  
,la ,madeleine1 and the river1 fill the 
picture2 nor is the impression in  any  
wise diminished on a nearer approach1   
when1 through a long avenue1  formed by 
four rows of lofty elms1 you advance by 
the side of a stream1  at once majestic 

from its width and eminently beautiful  
from its winding  course4    ,rouen is  
now unfortified2 its walls1 its castles1
 are level with the  ground4 ,but1 if ,i
 may borrow the pun of which old ,peter 
,heylin is guilty  when1 describing     
,paris1 ,rouen is still a strong city1  
for it taketh  you by the nose4 ,the    
filth is extreme2 villainous smells     
overcome you  in every quarter1 and from
 every quarter4 ,the streets are gloomy1
  narrow1 and crooked1 and the houses at
 once mean and lofty4 ,even on the      
quay1 where all the activity of commerce
 is visible1 and where the  outward     
signs of opulence might be expected1    
there is nothing to fulfil  the         
expectation4 ,here is width and space1  
but no trottoir2 and the  buildings are 
as incongruous as can well be imagined1 
whether as to  height1 color1           
projection1 or material4 ,most of them1 
and indeed most in  the city1 are merely
 of lath and plaster1 the timbers       
uncovered and  painted red or black1 the

 plaster frequently coated with small   
grey  slates laid one over another1 like
 the weather-tiles in ,sussex4 ,their   
general form is very tall and very      
narrow1 which adds to the singularity   
of their appearance2 but mixed with     
these are others of white brick or      
stone1 and really handsome1 or1 it might
 be said1 elegant4 ,the contrast1       
however1 which they form only makes     
their neighbors look the more  shabby1  
while they themselves derive from the   
association an air of  meanness4 ,the   
merchants usually meet upon a small open
 plot1 situated  opposite to the quay1  
inclosed with palisades and fronted with
 trees4  ,this is their exchange in fine
 weather2 but adjoining is a handsome   
building1 called ,la ,bourse  couvert1  
or ,le ,consulte1 to which  recourse is 
always had in case of rain4 ,it was here
 that ,napolon and  ,maria ,louisa1 a   
very short time previous to their       
deposition1 received  from the          
inhabitants of ,rouen the oath of       

allegiance1 which so soon  afterwards   
found a ready transfer to another       
sovereign4    ,about the middle of the  
quay is placed the bridge of boats1 an  
object of  attraction to all strangers1 
but more so from the novelty and        
singularity of its construction than    
from its beauty4 ,utility rather  than  
elegance was consulted by the builder4  
,this far-famed structure is  ugly and  
cumbrous1 and a passenger feels a very  
unpleasing sensation if  he happens to  
stand upon it when a loaded waggon      
drives along it at low  water1 at which 
time there is a considerable descent    
from the side of  the suburbs4 ,an      
undulatory motion is then occasioned1   
which goes on  gradually from boat to   
boat till it reaches the opposite shore4
 ,the  bridge is supported upon nineteen
 large barges1 which rise and fall with 
the tide1 and are so put together that  
one or more can easily be  removed as   
often as it is necessary to allow any   
vessel to pass4 ,the  whole too can be  

entirely taken away in six hours1 a     
construction highly  useful in a river  
peculiarly liable to floods from sudden 
thaws2 which  sometimes occasion such an
 increase of the waters1 as to render   
the  lower stories of the houses in the 
adjacent parts of the city              
uninhabitable4 ,the bridge itself was   
destroyed by a similar accident1 in     
#agji1 for want of a timely removal4    
,its plan is commonly attributed to a   
monk of the order of ,st4 ,augustine1 by
 whom it was erected in #afbf1  about   
sixty years after the stone bridge1     
built by the ,empress ,matilda  in      
#aafg1 had ceased to be passable4 ,it   
seems the fate of ,rouen to have        
wonderful bridges4 ,the present is      
dignified by some writers with the  high
 title of a miracle of art3 the former  
is said by ,taillepied1 in  whose time  
it was standing1 to have been un des    
plus beaux difices et  des plus         
admirables de la ,france4 ,a few lines  
afterwards1 however1 this  ingenuous    

writer confesses that loaded carriages  
of any kind were seldom  suffered to    
pass this admirable edifice1 in         
consequence of the expence  of repairing
 it2 but that two barges were           
continually plying for the  transport of
 heavy goods4 ,the delay between the    
destruction of the stone  bridge1 and   
the erection of the boat bridge1 appears
 to have been  occasioned by the desire 
of the citizens to have a second similar
 to the  first2 but this1 after repeated
 deliberations1 was at last determined  
to  be impracticable1 from the depth and
 rapidity of the stream4 ,napolon1      
however1 seems to have thought that the 
task which had been accomplished  under 
the auspices of the ,empress ,matilda1  
might be again repeated in  the name of 
the daughter of the ,csars and the wife 
of the successor  of ,charlemagne2 and  
he actually caused ,maria-,louisa to lay
 the first  stone of a new bridge1 at   
some distance farther to the east1 where
 an  island divides the river into two4 

,this1 ,i am told1 will certainly he    
finished1 though at an enormous expence1
 and though it will occasion  great     
inconvenience to many inhabitants of the
 quay1 whose houses will  be rendered   
useless by the height to which it will  
be necessary to raise  the soil upon the
 occasion4 ,my informant added1 that1   
small as is the  appearance yet made    
above water1 whole quarries of stone and
 forests of  wood have been already sunk
 for the purpose4    ,from the scite of 
the projected bridge1 the view eastward 
is  particularly charming4 ,the bold    
hill of ,st4 ,catherine presents its    
steep  side of bare chalk1 spotted only 
in a few places with vegetation or      
cottages1 and seems to oppose an        
impassable barrier2 the mixture of      
country-houses with trees at its base1  
makes a most pleasing variety2  and1    
still nearer1 the noble elms of the     
boulevards add a character of           
magnificence possessed by few other     
cities4 ,the boulevards of ,rouen  are  

rather deficient in the ,parisian       
accompaniments of dancing-dogs and      
music-grinders1 but the sober pedestrian
 will1 perhaps1 prefer them to  their   
namesakes in the capital4 ,here they are
 not1 as at ,paris1 in the  centre of   
the town1 but they surround it1 except  
upon the quay1 with  which they unite at
 each end1 and unite most pleasingly2 so
 that1  immediately on leaving this     
brilliant bustling scene1 you enter into
 the  gloom of a lofty embowered arcade1
 resembling in appearance1 as well as   
in effect1 the public walks at          
,cambridge1 except that the addition of 
females in the fanciful ,norman costume1
 and of the ,seine1 and the fine        
prospect beyond1 and ,mont ,st4         
,catherine above1 give it a new         
interest4  ,on the opposite side of the 
,seine1 the inhabitants of ,rouen have  
another  excellent promenade in the     
grand cours1 which1 for a considerable  
space1 occupies the bank of the river1  
turning eastward from the bridge4  ,four

 rows of trees divide it into three     
separate walks1 of which the  central   
one is by far the widest1 and serves for
 horses and carriages2  the other two   
are appropriated exclusively to foot    
passengers4 ,in these1  on a summer's   
evening1 are to be seen all classes of  
the inhabitants of  ,rouen1 from the    
highest to the lowest2 and the following
 sketch1 which  you will easily perceive
 to be from a pencil more delicate than 
mine1  gives a most lively and faithful 
picture of them4 ,it may indeed be in   
some measure in the nature of a treatise
 de re vestiari1 yet such  details of   
gowns and petticoats never fail to      
interest1 at least to  interest me1 when
 proceeding from a wearer4              
,illustration3 ,view of ,rouen1 from the
 ,grand ,cours    ,our carriage had     
scarcely stopped when we were surrounded
 with beggars1  principally women with  
children in their arms4 ,the poor babes 
presented  a most pitiable appearance1  
meagre1 dirty to the utmost degree1     

ragged  and flea-bitten1 so that round  
the throat there was not the least      
portion of carnation appearing to be    
free from the insect plague4  ,their    
hair1 too1 is seldom cut2 and ,i have   
seen girls of eight or ten  years of    
age1 bearing a growing crop which had   
evidently remained  unshorn1 and ,i may 
add1 uncombed1 from the time of their   
birth4 ,it is  impossible not to dread  
coming into contact with these imps1    
who1 when  old1 are among the ugliest   
conceivable specimens of the human race4
 ,the  women1 even those who inhabit the
 towns1 live much in the open air3      
besides being employed in many slavish  
offices1 they sit at their doors  or    
windows pursuing their business1 or     
lounge about1 watching passengers  to   
obtain charity4 ,thus their faces and   
necks are always of a copper  color1    
and1 at an advanced age1 more dusky     
still2 so that1 for the  anatomy and    
coloring of witches1 a painter needs    
look no further4 ,their  wretchedness is

 strongly contrasted by the gaiety of   
the higher classes4  ,the military1 who1
 ,i suppose1 as usual in ,france1 hold  
the first place1  appear in all possible
 variety of keeping and costume1 with   
their  well-proportioned figures1 clean 
apparel1 decided gait1 martial air1 and 
whiskered faces4 ,here and there we see 
gliding along the well-dressed  lady    
7not well dressed1 indeed1 as far as    
becomingness goes1 but  fashionably71   
with a gown of triple flounces1 whose   
skirt intrudes even  upon the shoulders1
 obliterating the waist entirely1 while 
her throat is  lost in an immense frill 
of four or more ranks2 and sometimes a  
large  shawl over all completes the     
disguise of the shape4 ,the head of the 
dame  or damsel is usually enveloped in 
a gauze or silk bonnet1 sufficiently    
large to spread1 were it laid upon a    
table1 two feet in diameter1 and        
trimmed with various-colored ribbons and
 artificial flowers3 in the hand  is    
seen the ridicule1 a never-failing      

accompaniment4 ,the lower orders of     
women at ,rouen usually wear the        
,cauchoise cap1 or an approach to it1   
rising high to a narrowish point at top1
 and furnished with immense ears  or    
wings that drop on the shoulder1 then   
opening in front so as to allow  to be  
seen on the forehead a small portion of 
hair1 which divides and  falls in two or
 three spiral ringlets on each side of  
the face4 ,the  remainder of the dress  
is generally composed of a colored      
petticoat1  probably striped1 an apron  
of a different color1 a bodice still    
differing in tint from the rest1 and a  
shawl1 uniting all the various  hues of 
all the other parts of the dress4 ,some 
of the peasants from the  country look  
still more picturesque1 when mounted on 
horseback bringing  vegetables3 they    
keep their situation without saddle or  
stirrup1 and  seem perfectly at ease4   
,but the best figures on horseback are  
the young  men who take out their       
masters' horses to give them exercise1  

and who  are frequently seen on the     
grand cours4 ,they ride without hat1    
coat1  saddle1 or saddle-cloth1 and with
 the shirt sleeves rolled up above the  
elbow4 ,their negligent equipment1 added
 to their short1 curling hair1  and the 
ease and elasticity they display in the 
management of their  horses1 gives them1
 on the whole1 a great resemblance to   
the ,grecian  warriors of the ,elgin    
marbles4 ,men1 as well as women1 are    
frequently  seen without hats in the    
streets1 and continually uncravatted2   
and when  their heads are covered1 these
 coverings are of every shape and hue2  
from the black beaver1 with or without a
 rim1 through all gradations of  cap1 to
 the simple white cotton nightcap4 ,a   
painter would delight in  this display  
of forms and these sparkling touches of 
color1 especially  when contrasted with 
the grey of the city1 and the tender    
tints of the  sky1 water1 and distance1 
and the broad coloring of the landscape4
    ,footnotes3    #bb ,he was son of   

,osborne de ,bolebec and ,aveline his   
wife1 sister to  ,gunnora1 ,duchess of  
,normandy1 great-grandmother to the     
,conqueror1 and  was one of the         
principal persons who composed the      
general survey of the  realm1 especially
 for the county of ,worcester4 ,in #ajhi
 he adhered to  ,william ,rufus1 against
 his brother ,robert ,courthose1 and    
forfeited his  ,norman possessions on   
the king's behalf1 of whose army there  
he was a  principal commander1 and      
behaved himself very honorably4 ,yet1 in
 the  time of ,henry ,ist1 he took the  
part of the said ,courthose against that
  king1 but died the year               
following1--,banks' ,extinct ,baronag1  
,,iii4 p4  #ajh4    #bc ,duchesne1      
,scriptores ,normanni1 p4 #hji4    #bd  
,p4 #ffh4          ,,letter ,v4         
,,journey ,,to ,,havre--,,pays ,,de     
,,caux--,,st4 ,,vallery--,f,,camp--,,the
 ,,precious  ,,blood--,,the             
,,abbey--,,tombs ,,in                   
,,it--,,montivilliers--,,harfleur4      

7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,lest ,i     
should deserve to be visited with the   
censure which ,i have taken  the liberty
 of passing upon ,ducarel's tour1 ,i    
shall begin by premising  that my       
account of the present state of the     
tract1 intended for the  subject of this
 and the following letter1 is wholly    
derived from the  journals of my        
companions4 ,their road by ,fcamp1      
,havre1 ,bolbec1 and  ,yvetot1 has led  
them through the greater part of the    
,pays de ,caux1 a  district which1 in   
the time of ,csar1 was peopled by the   
,caletes or  ,caleti4 ,antiquaries      
suppose1 that in the name of this tribe1
 they  discover the traces of its       
,celtic origin1 and that its radical is 
no  other than the word ,kalt or ,celt  
itself4 ,as a proof of the  correctness 
of this etymology1 ,bourgueville#be     
tells us that but little  more than two 
hundred years have passed since its     
inhabitants1 now  universally called    
,cauchois1 were not less commonly called

 ,caillots  or ,caillettes2 a name which
 still remains attached to several      
families1 as well as to the village     
,gonfreville la ,caillotte1 and1        
probably1 to some others4 ,i shall1     
however1 waive all ,celtic theory1  for 
that way madness lies1 and enter upon   
more sober chorography4    ,the author  
of the ,description of ,upper ,normandy 
states1 that the  territory known by    
that appellation was limited to the     
,pays de ,caux and  the ,vexin3 the     
former occupying the line of sea-coast  
from the ,brle to  the ,seine1 together 
with the governments of ,eu and ,havre  
and the ,pays de  ,brai2 the latter     
comprising the ,roumois1 and the ,french
 as well as the  ,norman ,vexin4 ,all   
these territorial divisions have1       
indeed1 been  obliterated by the        
state-geographers of the revolution2 and
 ,normandy1  time-honored ,normandy     
herself1 has disappeared from the map of
 the  dominions of the ,french king4    
,the ancient duchy is severed into the  

five  departments of the ,seine         
,infrieure1 the ,eure1 the ,orne1       
,calvados1 and  the ,manche4 ,these are 
the only denominations known to the     
government or  to the law1 yet they are 
scarcely received in common parlance4   
,the  people still speak of ,normandy1  
and they still take a pleasure in       
considering themselves as ,normans3 and1
 ,i too1 can share in their  attachment 
to a name1 which transmits the          
remembrance of actual  sovereignty and  
departed glory4    ,until the re-union  
of feudal ,normandy to the crown of its 
liege lord1  the duke was one of the    
twelve peers of the kingdom2 and to his 
hands  that kingdom entrusted the sacred
 ,oriflamme1 as often as it was         
expedient to unfurl it in war4 ,normandy
 also contained several titular         
duchies1 ancient fiefs held of the ,king
 as ,duke of ,normandy1 but which1  out 
of favour to their owners1 were erected1
 as the ,french lawyers  say1 into      
duchies1 after the province had reverted

 to the crown4 ,this  erection1 however1
 gave but a title to the noble owner1   
without  increasing his territorial     
privileges2 nor could any of our        
,richards1 or  our ,henries1 have       
allowed a liege man to write himself    
duke1 like his  proud feudal suzerein4  
,the recent duchies were ,alenon1       
,aumale1  ,harcourt1 ,damville1 ,elbeuf1
 ,etouteville1 and ,longueville1 and    
three of  them were included in the     
,pays de ,gaux1 the inhabitants of      
which1 from  the titles connected with  
it1 were accustomed to dignify it with  
the  epithet of noble4 ,their claim to  
the epithet is thus given by an  ancient
 ,norman poet of the fifteenth century2 
and if1 according to the  old tradition1
 which ,voltaire has bantered with his  
usually incredulity1  we could admit    
that ,yvetot was ever really a kingdom1 
it must be allowed  that few provinces  
could produce such a titled terrier3    
,au noble ,pays de ,caux       ,y a     
quatre ,abbayes royaux1       ,six      

,prieurs conventionaux1       ,et six   
,barons de grand arroi1       ,quatre   
,comtes1 trois ,ducs1 un ,roi4    ,the  
soil of the district is generally rich2 
but the farmers frequently  suffer from 
drought1 especially in its western part1
 where they are  obliged almost         
constantly to have recourse to artifical
 irrigation4 ,the  houses and villages  
are all surrounded with hedges1 thickly 
planted1 and  each village is also      
belted in the same manner4 ,these       
inclosures1 which  are peculiar to the  
,pays de ,caux1 give a monotonous       
appearance to the  landscape1 but they  
are highly beneficial1 for they break   
the force of  the winds1 and furnish the
 inhabitants with fuel4 ,if my memory   
does not  deceive me1 the towns either  
of the ancient ,gauls or ,teutons1 are  
described as being thus encompassed in  
primitive times2 but ,i cannot  name my 
authorities for the assertion4    ,st4  
,vallery1 the first stage beyond        
,dieppe1 is situated in a valley2 and   

there is an obscure tradition that this 
valley was once watered by a  river1    
which disappeared some centuries ago4   
,it is conjectured1 from the  name of   
the town1 that it claims an origin as   
high as the seventh  century1 when the  
disciples of ,st4 ,vallery were obliged 
to quit their  original monastery and   
take refuge elsewhere4 ,yet1 according  
to other  authorities#bf1 it did not    
receive its present appellation till    
#aaig1  when ,richard ,coeur de ,lion1  
after having destroyed the town and     
abbey of  ,st4 ,vallery sur ,somme1     
carried off the relics of the patron    
saint1 and  deposited them in this town4
 ,my reporters tell me that it has an   
air of  antiquity and gloom1 but that it
 contains nothing worthy of notice      
except a crucifix in the churchyard1 of 
stone1 richly wrought1 dated  #aege1 and
 a bnitier of such simple form and rude 
workmanship1 as to  appear of           
considerable antiquity4 ,the place      
itself is only a wretched  residence for

 four or five thousand fishermen2 but   
still it has a  name#bg in history4     
,hence ,william sailed for the conquest 
of ,england2  and its harbor1 all poor  
and small as it is1 has always been     
considered  of importance to the        
country2 there being no other between   
,havre and  ,dieppe capable of affording
 shelter to vessels of even a moderate  
size4    ,the road to ,fcamp passes     
through the little town of ,cany1       
situated in a  beautiful valley2 and    
there my family met the ,archbishop of  
,rouen1 who1  at this moment1 is in     
progress through his diocese1 for the   
purpose of  confirmation4 ,the approach 
of his eminence gave the appearance of a
 fair  to every village3 young and old  
of both sexes were collected in the     
highways to welcome the prelate4 ,he    
travelled in considerable state1        
attended by a military escort of twenty 
men2 and arrayed in the scarlet  robe of
 a ,roman ,cardinal1 with the brilliant 
decoration of the ,legion  of ,honor    

conspicuous upon his breast4 ,for the   
archbishop is a grand  officer of that  
brotherhood of bastard chivalry2 and    
this ornament1  conjoined to his train  
of whiskered warriors1 seemed to render 
him a  very type of the church militant4
 ,his eminence is extremely bulky2 and  
my pilgrims were wicked enough to be    
much amused by the oddity of his  pomp  
and pride4 ,nor did the postillion spare
 his facetiousness on the  occasion2 for
 you are aware that in ,france1 as in   
most other parts of  the continent1 the 
servile classes use a degree of         
familiarity in their  intercourse with  
their betters1 to which we are little   
accustomed in  ,england1 and which has  
given rise to the ,italian proverb1 that
 ,il  ,francese  fedele1 l',italiano    
rispettoso1 l',inglese schiavo#bh4      
,throughout this part of ,france1 large 
flocks of sheep are commonly seen  in   
the vicinity of the sea1 and1 as the    
pastures are uninclosed1 they  are all  
regularly guarded by a shepherd and his 

black dog1 whose  activity cannot fail  
to be a subject of admiration4 ,he is   
always on the  alert and attentive to   
his business1 skirting his flock to keep
 them  from straggling1 and that1       
apparently1 without any directions from 
his  master4 ,in the night they are     
folded upon the ploughed land2 and the  
shepherd lodges1 like a ,tartar in his  
kibitka1 in a small cart roofed  and    
fitted up with doors4    ,fcamp1 like   
other towns in the neighborhood1 is     
imbedded in a deep  valley2 and the     
road1 on approaching it1 threads through
 an opening  between hills stern and    
wild1 a tract of brown heath and shaggy 
wood1 resembling many parts of          
,scotland4 ,the town is long and        
straggling1 the streets steep and       
crooked2 its inhabitants1 according to  
the official account of the population  
of ,france1 amount to seven  thousand1  
and the number of its houses is         
estimated at thirteen hundred1  besides 
above a third of that quantity which are

 deserted1 and more or  less in         
ruins#bi4    ,fcamp appeared desolate   
and decaying to its visitors1 but they  
recollected that its very desolation was
 a voucher of the antiquity from  which 
it derives its interest4 ,it claims an  
origin as high as the days  of ,csar1   
when it was called ,fisci ,campus1 being
 the station where  the tribute was     
collected4    ,it is in vain1 however1  
to expect concord amongst etymologists2 
and1 of  course1 there are other right  
learned wights who protest against this 
derivation4 ,they shake their heads and 
say1 no2 you must trace the  name1      
,fcamp1 to ,fici ,campus2 and they      
strengthen their assertion by  a sort of
 argumentum ad ecclesiam1 maintaining   
that the precious  blood1 for which     
,fcamp was long celebrated1 corroborates
 and confirms  their tale4 ,a chapel in 
the abbey church attests the sanctity of
 this  relic4 ,the legend states that   
,nicodemus1 at the time of the          
entombment  of our ,saviour1 collected  

in a phial the blood from his wounds1   
and  bequeathed it to his nephew1       
,isaac2 who afterwards1 making a tour   
through ,gaul1 stopped in the ,pays de  
,caux1 and buried the phial at the  root
 of a fig-tree#cj4    ,nor is this the  
only miracle connected with the church4 
,the monkish  historians descant with   
florid eloquence upon the white stag1   
which  pointed out to ,duke ,ansegirus  
the spot where the edifice was to be    
erected2 the mystic knife1 inscribed in 
nomine sanct et individu  trinitatis1   
thus declaring to whom the building     
should be dedicated2  and the roof1     
which1 though prepared for a distant    
edifice1 felt that it  would be best at 
,fcamp1 and actually1 of its own accord1
 undertook a  voyage by sea1 and landed1
 without the displacing of a single     
nail1 upon  the sea-coast near the town4
 ,all these contes dvots1 and many      
others1  you will find recorded in the  
,neustria ,pia#ca4 ,i will only detain  
you  with a few words more upon the     

subject of the precious blood1 a matter 
too important to be thus hastily        
dismissed4 ,it was placed here by ,duke 
,richard ,i42 but was lost in the course
 of a long and turbulent period1  and   
was not found again till the year #aaga1
 when it was discovered  within the     
substance of a column built in the wall4
 ,two little tubes of  lead originally  
contained the treasure2 but these were  
soon inclosed in  two others of a more  
precious metal1 and the whole was laid  
at the  bottom of a box of gilt silver1 
placed in a beautiful pyramidical       
shrine4 ,thus protected1 it was1 before 
the revolution1 fastened to one  of the 
pillars of the choir1 behind a          
trellis-work of copper1 and was an      
object of general adoration4 ,i know not
 what has since become of it2  but1 as  
they are now managing these matters     
better in ,france1 we may  safely       
calculate upon the speedy reappearance  
of the relic4 ,nor must you  refer this 
legend to the many which protestant     

incredulity is too apt to  class with   
the idle tales of all ages1 the         
444 quicquid ,grcia mendax       ,audet 
in histori2    for no less grave an     
authority than the faculty of theology  
at ,paris  determined1 by a formal      
decree of the #bhth of ,may1 #addh1 that
 this  worship was very proper2 for     
that1 to use their words1 ,non repugnat 
pietati fidelium credere qud aliquid de 
sanguine ,christi effuso tempore        
passionis remanserit in terris4    ,the 
abbey1 to which ,fcamp was indebted for 
all its greatness and  celebrity1 was   
founded in #ffdcb for a community of    
nuns1 by ,waning1  the count or governor
 of the ,pays de ,caux1 a nobleman who  
had already  contributed to the         
endowment of the ,monastery of ,st4     
,wandrille4 ,st4  ,ouen1 ,bishop of     
,rouen1 dedicated the church in the     
presence of ,king  ,clotaire2 and1 so   
rapidly did the fame of the sanctity of 
the abbey  extend1 that the number of   
its inmates amounted in a very short    

period  to three hundred or more4 ,the  
arrival1 however1 of the ,normans1 under
  ,hastings1 in #hda1 caused the        
dispersion of the nuns2 and the same    
story  is related of the few who        
remained at ,fcamp1 as of many others   
under  similar circumstances1 that they 
voluntarily cut off their noses and     
their lips1 rather than be an object of 
attraction to the lust of their         
conquerors4 ,the abbey1 in return for   
their heroism1 was levelled with  the   
ground1 and it did not rise from its    
ashes till the year #ihh1 when  the     
piety of ,duke ,richard ,i4 built the   
church anew1 under the auspices  of his 
son1 ,robert1 ,archbishop of ,rouen2    
but1 departing from the  original       
foundation1 he established therein a    
chapter of regular canons1  who1        
however1 were so irregular in their     
conduct1 that within ten years  they    
were doomed to give way to a body of    
,benedictine ,monks1 headed by  an      
,abbot1 named ,william1 from a convent  

at ,dijon4 ,from his time the  monastery
 continued to increase in splendor4     
,three suffragan abbies1  that of ,notre
 ,dame at ,bernay1 of ,st4 ,taurin at   
,evreux1 and of ,ste4  ,berthe de       
,blangi1 in the diocese of ,boullogne1  
owned the superior power  of the abbot  
of ,fcamp1 and supplied the three mitres
 which he proudly  bore on his abbatial 
shield4 ,kings and princes in former    
ages frequently  paid the abbey the     
homage of their worship and their gifts2
 and1 in a  period nearer to our own1   
,casimir of ,poland1 after his voluntary
  abdication of the throne1 selected it 
as the spot in which he sought for      
repose1 when wearied with the cares of  
royalty4 ,the ,english possessions  of  
,fcamp 7for like most of the great      
,norman abbeys1 it held lands in  our   
island7 do not appear to have been      
large2 but1 according to an  author of  
our own country#cc the abbot presented  
to one hundred and  thirty benefices1   
some in the diocese of ,rouen1 others in

 those of  ,bayeux1 ,lisieux1           
,coutances1 ,chartres1 and ,beauvais2   
and it enjoyed so  many estates1 that   
its income was said to be forty thousand
 crowns per  annum4 ,fcamp moreover     
could boast of a noble library1 well    
stored with  manuscripts#cd1 and        
containing among its archives many      
original  charters1 deeds1 c4 of        
,william the ,conqueror1 and several of 
his  successors4    ,this magnificent   
church is three hundred and seventy feet
 long and  seventy high2 the transept1  
including the ,chapel of the ,precious  
,blood1  one hundred and twenty feet    
long2 the tower two hundred feet high4  
,a  portion of it was burned in #adfj1  
but soon repaired4 ,william de ,ros1    
third abbot1 rebuilt all the upper part 
in a better taste1 and enlarged  the    
nave1 which was not finished till #abjj4
 ,a successor of his at the  beginning  
of the next century completed the       
chapels round the choir4 ,the  screen   
was begun by one of the monks about     

#aejj1 who erected the chapel  dedicated
 to the death of the ,virgin1 a         
master-piece of architecture and        
adorned with historical carving4 ,the   
cloister was built so late as #agab4    
,cathedral service was performed in the 
church1 in which were the tombs  of the 
first and second of the ,richards of    
,normandy2 of ,richard1 infant  son of  
the former1 and of ,william1 third son  
of the latter2 of ,margaret1  betrothed 
to ,robert1 son of ,william the         
,conqueror1 who died #ajfj2 of  ,alard1 
third ,earl of ,bretagne1 #ajdj2 of     
,archbishop ,osmond1 and of a  ,lady    
,judith1 whose jingling epitaph has     
given rise to a variety of  conjectures1
 whether she was the wife of ,duke      
,richard ,i,ind1 or his  daughter1 or   
some other person4--           ,illa    
solo sociata1 mariti at jure soluta1    
,judita judicio justificata jacet2      
,et qu1 dante ,deo1 sed judice          
justificante1       ,primo jus subiit   
sed mod jura regit4    ,as to ,duke     

,richard ,ist1 he caused a sarcophagus  
of stone to be made and  placed within  
this church2 and so long as he lived1 it
 was filled with  wheat on every        
,friday1 and the grain1 together with   
five shillings1  distributed weekly     
among the poor4 ,and when his death     
approached1 he  expressly charged his   
successor1 ,bury not my body within the 
church1  but deposit it on the outside1 
immediately under the eaves1 that the   
dripping of the rain from the holy roof 
may wash my bones as ,i lie1 and  may   
cleanse them of the spots of impurity   
contracted during a negligent  and      
neglected life4    ,our party could not 
ascertain whether any of the historical 
monuments  were yet in existence4 ,the  
church1 at the time they were there1 was
  wholly occupied with preparations for 
the approaching confirmation4  ,young   
girls in their best dresses1 all in     
white1 and holding tapers in  their     
hands1 filled the nave1 while the       
chapels were crowded with  individuals  

at prayer1 or still more with females   
waiting for an  opportunity of          
confessing themselves1 previously to    
receiving the  expected absolution from 
the archbishop4 ,under such             
circumstances  nothing could be         
examined2 but there appeared to be in   
the chapels five  or six fine1 though   
mutilated1 altar tombs3 to whom1        
however1 they  belonged1 or what was    
their actual state1 it was impossible to
 tell4  ,accompanying them are also some
 curious pieces of sculpture4 ,for the  
same reason no farther remark could be  
made upon the interior of the  building1
 except that its architecture is        
imposing1 and its roof1  supported by   
tall clustered pillars1 has much the    
general effect of the  nave of our      
cathedral at ,norwich1 one of the purest
 specimens of ,norman  architecture in  
,england4 ,externally the tower is      
handsome1 and of nearly  the earliest   
pointed style2 not altogether so1 as its
 arches1 though  narrow1 contain each a 

double arch within4 ,the rest of the    
building  seems to have suffered much   
from alterations and dilapidation2 and  
whatever tracery there may have been    
originally has disappeared from the     
windows2 nor are there saints or even   
niches remaining above the doors4       
,the exterior of the church of ,st4     
,etienne1 one of the ten parochial      
churches of ,fcamp1 before the          
revolution1 is considerably more        
imposing2 but upon this ,i will not     
detain you1 as you will see it  engraved
 in ,mr4 ,cotman's ,architectural       
,antiquities of ,normandy1 from a       
sketch taken by him last year4    ,henry
 ,i,ind1 of ,england1 made a donation of
 the town to the abbey1 whose           
seignorial jurisdiction also extended   
over many other parishes1 as well  in   
this as in the adjoining dioceses4 ,its 
exclusive privileges were  likewise     
ample4 ,under the first and second race1
 ,fcamp was the seat of  government of  
the ,pays de ,caux1 and the residence of

 the counts of the  district3 it was    
also a residence of the ,norman ,dukes4 
,their castle was  rebuilt by ,william  
,longue-,epe1 with a degree of          
magnificence which is  said to have been
 extraordinary4 ,this duke took         
particular pleasure in  the place1 and  
he and his immediate successors         
frequently lived here4  ,but the palace 
has long since disappeared#ce3 the      
continual increase of  the monastic     
buildings gradually occupied its place2 
and they1 in their  turn1 are now       
experiencing the revolutions of fortune1
 the inhabitants  being at this very    
time actively employed in their         
demolition4    ,the town is at present  
wholly supported by the fisheries1 in   
which are  employed about fourteen      
hundred sailors#cf4 ,the herrings of    
,fcamp have  always had the same high   
character in ,france1 as those of       
,lowestoft and  ,yarmouth in ,england4  
,the armorial lion of our own town ends1
 as you  know1 with the tail of a       

herring2 and ,i really have been often  
inclined  to affix the same appendage to
 the rump of the lion of ,normandy4 ,you
 are  not much of an epicure1 nor are   
you very likely to search in the        
,almanach des ,gourmands for dainties2  
if you did1 you would probably  find    
there the following proverb1 which has  
existed since the thirteenth  century1--
           ,aloses de ,bourdeaux2       
,esturgeons de ,blaye2       ,congres de
 la ,rochelle2       ,harengs de ,fcamp2
       ,saumons de ,loire2       ,sches 
de ,coutances4    ,the fortifications of
 ,fcamp are destroyed2 but1 upon the    
cliffs which  command the town1 there   
still remain some slight vestiges of a  
fort1  erected in the time of ,henry    
,i,vth1 when the inhabitants espoused   
the  party of the league4 ,the capture  
of this fort was one of those gallant   
exploits which the historian delights in
 recording2 and it is detailed  at great
 length in ,sully's ,memoirs#cg4        
,from ,fcamp to ,havre the country is   

well wooded1 and much applied to the    
cultivation of flax1 which flourishes in
 this neighborhood1 and has  given rise 
to considerable linen manufactories4    
,the trees look well in  masses1 but    
individually they are trimmed into      
ugliness4 ,near ,havre the  road goes   
through ,montivilliers1 and1 still      
nearer1 through ,harfleur4    ,the first
 of these is1 like ,fcamp1 a place of   
antiquity1 and derived  its name#ch and 
importance from a monastery which was   
founded at the  end of the seventh      
century4 ,its history is headed by the  
chapter which  begins the records of    
most of the ecclesiastical foundations  
of the  duchy3 when the invading heathen
 ,normans reached ,montivilliers1 it    
shared the common fate of destruction1  
and when they withdrew1 the  common     
piety recalled it to existence4 ,richard
 ,i,ind bestowed it upon  ,fcamp1 but   
the same sovereign restored it to its   
independence1 at the  request of his    
aunt1 ,beatrice1 who retired hither as  

abbess1 at the head  of a community of  
nuns4 ,a convent1 over which an abbess  
of royal blood  had presided1 could not 
fail to enjoy considerable privileges2  
and it  retained them to the period of  
the revolution4 ,the tower of the church
  still remains1 a noble specimen of the
 ,norman architecture of the  eleventh  
century1 at which period the building is
 known to have been  erected4 ,the rest 
of the edifice1 though handsome as a    
whole1 is the  work of different ras4   
,the archives of the monastery furnish  
an account  of large sums expended in   
additions and alterations in the years  
#acgj  and #aeac4 ,the interior contains
 some elegant stone fillagree-work in   
the  form of a small gallery or pulpit1 
attached to the west end near the  roof1
 and probably intended to receive a band
 of singers on high  festivals4 ,a      
gallery of a similar nature1 but of     
wood1 and to which the  foregoing       
purpose was assigned by the learned     
wight1 ,john ,carter1 is yet  remaining 

at the north-west corner of ,westminster
 ,abbey4 ,you and ,i1 who  are sadly    
inclined to admire ugliness and         
antiquity1 would have been  better      
pleased with the capitals of the        
pillars1 which are evidently  coeval    
with the tower4 ,drawings were made of  
some of these capitals1 and  ,i have    
selected two which appeared to be the   
most singular4    ,illustration3        
,capital with angel    ,in this you     
observe an angel weighing the good works
 of the deceased  against his evil      
deeds2 and1 as the former are far       
exceeding the  avoirdupois upon which   
,satan is to found his claim1 he is     
endeavoring  most unfairly to depress   
the scale with his two-pronged fork4    
,this allegory is of frequent occurrence
 in the monkish legends4--,the  saint1  
who was aware of the frauds of the      
fiend1 resolved to hold the  balance    
himself4--,he began by throwing in a    
pilgrimage to a miraculous              
virgin4--,the devil pulled out an       

assignation with some fair mortal       
,madonna1 who had ceased to be          
immaculate4--,the saint laid in the     
scale  the sackcloth and ashes of the   
penitent of ,lenten-time4--,satan       
answered  the deposit by the vizard and 
leafy-robe of the masker of the         
carnival4--,thus did they still continue
 equally interchanging the  sorrows of  
godliness with the sweets of sin1 and   
still the saint was  distressed beyond  
compare1 by observing that the scale of 
the wicked  thing 7wise men call him the
 correcting principle17 always seemed   
the  heaviest4 ,almost did he despair of
 his client's salvation1 when he        
luckily saw eight little jetty black    
claws just hooking and clenching  over  
the rim of the golden basin4 ,the claws 
at once betrayed the craft  of the      
cloven foot4 ,old ,nick had put a little
 cunning young devil under  the balance1
 who1 following the dictates of his     
senior1 kept clinging to  the scale1 and
 swaying it down with all his might and 

main4 ,the saint  sent the imp to his   
proper place in a moment1 and instantly 
the burthen  of transgression was seen  
to kick the beam4    ,painters and      
sculptors also often introduced this    
ancient allegory of  the balance of good
 and evil1 in their representations of  
the last  judgment3 it was even employed
 by ,lucas ,kranach4    ,the other      
capital which ,i send to you is         
ornamented with groups of  ,centaurs or 
,sagittaries4 ,astronomical sculptures  
are frequently found  upon the monuments
 of the middle ages4 ,two capitals1     
forming part of a  series of zodiacal   
sculptures1 are preserved in the ,muse  
des ,monumens  ,franais2 and1 speaking  
from memory1 ,i think they bear a near  
resemblance in style to that which is   
here represented4    ,illustration3     
,capital with ,centaurs or ,sagittaries 
,montivilliers itself is a neat little  
town1 beautifully situated in a  valley1
 with a stream of clear water running   
through it4 ,at this time  its trade is 

trifling2 but the case was otherwise in 
former days1 when  its cloths were      
considered to rival those of ,flanders1 
and the  preservation of the manufacture
 was regarded of so much consequence1   
that sundry regulations respecting it   
are to be found in the royal            
ordinances4 ,one of them in particular1 
of the fourteenth century1  notices the 
frauds committed by other towns in      
imitating the mark of the  cloth of     
,montivilliers4    ,the general         
appearance of ,harfleur is much like    
that of ,montivilliers2  but numerous   
remains of walls and gates denote that  
it was once of  still greater           
comparative importance4 ,the ancient    
trade of the place is  now transferred  
to ,havre de ,grace1 the situation of   
the latter town  being far more         
elegible4    ,the ,seine no longer rolls
 its waves under ,harfleur2 and the     
desiccated  harbor is now seen as a     
verdant meadow4 ,without the aid of     
history1  therefore1 you would in vain  

inquire into the derivation of the name1
 in  connection with which1 the learned 
,huet1 ,bishop of ,avranches#ci1 calls  
upon us to remark1 that the names of    
many places in ,normandy end in  fleur1 
as ,barfleur1 ,harfleur1 ,honfleur1     
,fiefleur1 ,vitefleur1 c42 and  that1   
if1 as it is commonly supposed1 this    
termination comes from  fluctus1 it must
 have passed through the ,saxon1 in     
which language  fleoten signifies to    
flow4 ,hence we have flot1 and from     
flot1  fleut and fleur1 the last        
alteration being warranted by the genius
 of  the ,french language4 ,the bishop  
further states1 that there are two      
facts1 affording a decisive proof of    
this origin3 the one1 that the  names   
now terminating in fleur1 ended         
anciently flot1 ,barfleur being         
,barbeflot1 ,harfleur ,hareflot1 and    
,honfleur ,huneflot2 the other1 that all
  places so called are situated where   
they are washed by the tide4 ,such is   
also the position of the towns in       

,holland1 whose names terminate in      
vliet1 and of those in ,england1 ending 
in fleet1 as ,purfleet1  ,byfleet1 c4   
,the ,latin word flevus is of the same  
kind1 and is derived  from the same     
source2 for1 instead of ,hareflot and   
,huneflot1 some old  records have       
,hareflou and ,huneflou1 and some others
 ,barfleu1 terms  approaching flevus1   
which is also called by ,ptolemy1 fleus1
 and by  ,mela1 fletio4 ,it is highly   
improbable1 that these two last terms   
should have been coined subsequently to 
the time of the ,romans becoming        
masters of ,gaul1 and it is equally     
unlikely that the ,saxon fleoten  should
 be derived from the ,latin4 ,thus far1 
therefore1 the languages  appear to have
 had a common origin1 and they are      
insomuch allied to the  ,celtic1 that   
those towns in ,britanny1 in whose names
 are found the  syllables pleu and plou1
 are also invariably placed in similar  
situations4    ,if1 however1 ,i am      
fairly embarked in the sea of           

etymological conjecture1  ,i know not   
where ,i shall be carried2 and          
therefore1 instead of urging  the       
probability that the root of the ,celtic
 pleu is apparently to be  found in the 
,pelasgic ,greek in original sail or    
float1 ,i shall return  to ,harfleur and
 its history4 ,whilst ,harfleur was in  
its glory1 it was  considered the key of
 the ,seine and of this part of ,france4
 ,in #adae it  opposed a vigorous       
resistance to our ,henry ,vth1 who had  
no sooner made  himself master of it1   
than1 with a degree of contradiction1   
which  teaches man to regard the        
performance of his duty to ,god as no   
reason  for his performing it to his    
fellow-creatures1 the ,king uncovered   
his  feet and legs1 and walked barefoot 
from the gate to the parish church of   
,st4 ,martin1 where he very devoutly    
offered up his prayers and              
thanksgivings for his success4 ,but1    
immediately afterwards he made all  the 
nobles and the men at arms that were in 

the town his captives1 and  shortly     
after sent the greater part out of the  
place1 clothed in their  jerkins only1  
taking down their names and surnames in 
writing1 and  obliging them to swear by 
their faith that they would surrender   
themselves prisoners at ,calais on      
,martinmas-day next ensuing4 ,in like   
manner were the townsmen made prisoners1
 and obliged to ransom  themselves for  
large sums of money4 ,afterwards did the
 ,king banish them  out of the town1    
with numbers of women and children1 to  
each of whom  were given five sols and a
 portion of their garments4             
,monstrelet#dj1  from whom ,i have      
transcribed this detail1 adds1 that it  
was pitiful to  hear and see the sorrow 
of these poor people1 thus driven away  
from  their homes2 the priests and      
clergy were likewise dismissed2 and1 in 
regard to the wealth found there1 it was
 not to be told1 and appertained  even  
to the ,king1 who distributed it as he  
pleased4 ,other writers tell  us that   

the number of those thus expelled was   
eight thousand1 and that  the conqueror1
 not satisfied with this act of         
vengeance1 publicly burned  the charters
 and archives of the town and the       
title-deeds of  individuals1 re-peopled 
,harfleur with ,english1 and forbad the 
few  inhabitants that remained to       
possess or inherit any landed property4 
,after a lapse1 however1 of twenty      
years1 the peasants of the neighboring  
country1 aided by one hundred and four  
of the inhabitants1 retook the  place by
 assault4 ,the exploit was gallant2 and 
a custom continued to  prevail in       
,harfleur1 for above two centuries      
subsequently1 intended to  commemorate  
it2 a bell was tolled one hundred and   
four times every  morning at day-break1 
being the time when the attack was made4
 ,in #addj1  the citizens1 undismayed by
 the sufferings of their predecessors1  
withstood a second siege from our       
countrymen1 whom the town resisted  four
 months1 and in whose possession it     

remained ten years1 when ,charles       
,v,i,i,ith permanently united it to the 
crown of ,france4 ,notwithstanding      
these calamities1 it rose again to a    
state of prosperity1 till the           
revocation of the edict of ,nantes gave 
the death-blow to its commerce2  and    
intolerance completed the desolation    
which war had begun4 ,at  present1 it is
 only remarkable for the elegant tower  
and spire of its  church1 connected by  
flying buttresses of great beauty1 the  
whole of  rich and elaborate            
workmanship4    ,illustration3 ,tower   
and ,spire of ,harfleur ,church    ,at a
 short distance from ,harfleur1 the     
,seine comes in view1 flowing into  the 
sea through a fine rich valley2 but the 
wide expanse of water has no            
picturesque beauty4 ,the hills around   
,havre are plentifully spotted with     
gentlemen's houses1 few only of which   
have been seen in other parts in  the   
ride4 ,the town itself is strongly      
fortified2 and1 having conducted  you   

hither1 ,i shall leave you for the      
present1 reserving for another  letter  
any particulars respecting ,havre1 and  
the rest of the road to  ,rouen4        
,footnotes3    #be ,antiquits de        
,normandie1 p4 #ec4    #bf ,dumoulin1   
,gographie de la ,france1 ,,ii p4 #hj4  
#bg ,description de la ,haute           
,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #aji4    #bh ,heylin 
notices the familiarity of the approach 
of the ,french  servants1 in his        
delineation of a ,norman inn4 ,an       
extract may amuse those  who are not    
familiar with the works of this quaint  
yet sensible writer4  ,there stood in   
the chamber three beds1 if at the least 
it be lawful so  to call them2 the      
foundation of them was straw1 so        
infinitely thronged  together1 that the 
wool-packs which our judges sit on in   
the ,parliament1  were melted butter to 
them2 upon this lay a medley of flocks  
and  feathers sewed up together in a    
large bag1 7for ,i am confident it was  
not a tick7 but so ill ordered that the 

knobs stuck out on each side  like a    
crab-tree cudgel4 ,he had need to have  
flesh enough that lyeth on  one of them1
 otherwise the second night would wear  
out his bones4--,let  us now walk into  
the kitchen and observe their provision4
 ,and here we  found a most terrible    
execution committed on the person of a  
pullet2 my  hostess1 cruel woman1 had   
cut the throat of it1 and without       
plucking off  the feathers1 tore it into
 pieces with her hands1 and afterwards  
took  away skin and feathers together3  
this done1 it was clapped into a pan    
and fried for supper4--,but the         
principal ornaments of these inns are   
the  men-servants1 the raggedest        
regiment that ever ,i yet looked upon2  
such a  thing as a chamberlain was never
 heard of amongst them1 and good clothes
  are as little known as he4 ,by the    
habits of his attendants a man would    
think himself in a gaol1 their clothes  
are either full of patches or  open to  
the skin4 ,bid one of them make clean   

your boots1 and presently  he hath      
recourse to the curtains4--,they wait   
always with their hats on1  and so do   
all servants attending on their         
masters4--,time and use  reconciled me  
to many other things1 which1 at the     
first were offensive2  to this most     
irreverent custom ,i returned an enemy2 
neither can ,i see  how it can choose   
but stomach the most patient to see the 
worthiest  sign of liberty usurped and  
profaned by the basest of               
slaves4--,peter  then has a learned     
excursus de jure pileorum1 wherein      
,tertullian de  ,spectaculis1 ,erasmus  
his ,chiliades1 and many other reverent 
authorities are adduced2 also1 giving an
 account of his successful  exertions1  
as to the licence of putting on our caps
 at our public  meetings1 which         
privilege1 time1 and the tyranny of the 
vice-chancellor1  had taken from4 ,after
 which1 he still resumes in ire1--this  
,french  sauciness hath drawn me out of 
the way2 an impudent familiarity1 which1

  ,i confess1 did much offend me2 and to
 which ,i still profess myself an  open 
enemy4 ,though ,jacke speak ,french1 ,i 
cannot endure ,jacke should be a        
gentleman4    #bi ,gographie de la      
,france1 ,,ii4 p4 #aae4    #cj          
,description de la ,haute ,normandie1   
,i4 p4 #id4    #ca ,p4 #aif1 #bjc1 #bjd4
    #cb ,description de la ,haute       
,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #ij4--,some other    
writers  date the foundation ,a4,d4     
#fff4    #cc ,gough's ,alien ,priories1 
,i4 p4 #i4    #cd ,this important part  
of its treasures1 we may hope1 from the 
following passage in ,noel1 has been in 
a measure preserved4 ,on m'a  assur que 
cette dernire partie des richesses      
littraires de notre pays  toit          
heureusement conserve3 puisse           
aujourd'hui ce dpot1 honorant les  mains
 qui le possdent1 parvenir intgre       
jusqu'aux tems propres o le  gnie de    
l'histoire pourra utiliser sa           
possession4--,essais sur la  ,seine     
,infrieure1 ,,ii4 p4 #ba4    #ce ,i do  

not know if it be wholly destroyed2 for 
the author of the  ,description of      
,upper ,normandy and ,goube both speak  
of the existence of a  square tower     
within the precincts of the abbey1 part 
of the old palace1  and known by the    
name of the ,tower of ,babel4    #cf    
,noel1 ,essais sur la ,seine ,infrieure1
 ,,ii4 p4 #aa4    #cg ,vol4 ,i4 p4 #chi4
    #ch ,this name1 in ,latin1 is       
,monasterium ,villare2 in old ,french   
records it is called ,monstier ,vieil4  
#ci ,origines de ,caen1 #bnd edit4 p4   
#cjj4    #dj ,vol4 ,,ii4 p4 #gh4        
,,letter ,,vi4    ,,havre--,,trade ,,and
 ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,town--,,eminent 
,,men--,,bolbec--,,yvetot--,,ride  ,,to 
,,rouen--,,french ,,beggars4            
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,to ,fcamp   
and the other places noticed in my last 
letter1 a more  striking contrast could 
not easily be found than ,havre4 ,it    
equally wants  the interest derived from
 ancient history1 and the appearance of 
misery  inseparable from present decay4 

,and yet even ,havre is now suffering   
and  depressed4 ,a town which depends   
altogether upon foreign commerce1 could 
not fail to feel the effects of a long  
maritime war2 and we accordingly  find  
the number of its inhabitants1 which    
twenty years ago was estimated  at      
twenty-five thousand1 now reduced to    
little more than sixteen  thousand4     
,the blow1 which ,havre will with most  
difficulty recover is the loss of  ,st4 
,domingo2 for1 before the revolution1 it
 almost enjoyed a monopoly of  the trade
 of this important colony1 in which     
upwards of eighty ships1  each of above 
three hundred tons burthen1 were        
constantly employed4 ,with  ,martinique 
and ,guadaloupe it had a similar1 though
 less extensive1  intercourse4 ,as the  
natural outlet for the manufactures of  
,rouen and  ,paris1 it supplied the     
,french islands in the ,west ,indies    
with the  principal part of their       
plantation stores2 and the situation of 
the port  was equally advantageous for  

the importation of their produce4       
,guinea  and the coast of ,africa       
afforded a second and important branch  
of  commerce2 and this also is little   
likely entirely to recover4 ,we may  add
 that1 happily it is not so2 for it     
depended principally upon the           
slave-trade1 the profits of which were  
such1 that it was calculated a  vessel  
might clear upon an average nearly eight
 thousand pounds by each  voyage#da4    
,its whale-fishery has1 for more than a 
century1 ceased to  exist4 ,this pursuit
 began with spirit and at as early a    
period as the  year #afcb1 when the     
merchants of this port1 in conjunction  
with those of  ,biscay1 fitted out the  
expedition commanded by ,vrolicq1 seized
 upon a  station near ,spitzbergen1     
where they would have obtained a        
permanent  establishment1 had they not  
been violently expelled by the ,danes   
and  ,dutch4 ,but the coasting-trade    
with the various ports of ,france1 and  
the  communication with the other       

countries of ,europe1 is now again in   
full  vigor2 and it is to these sources 
that ,havre is chiefly indebted for the 
life and spirit visible in its quays and
 public places4    ,the appearance of   
bustle and activity is a striking1 at   
the same time  that it is a most        
pleasing1 character1 of every great and 
commercial  sea-port1 in every part of  
the world3 it is especially so in a     
climate  which is milder than our own1  
and where not only the loading and      
unloading of the ships1 with the        
consequent transport of merchandize1 is 
continually taking place before the     
spectator2 but the sides of the  shops  
are commonly set open1 sail-makers are  
pursuing their business in  rows in the 
streets1 and almost every handicraft and
 occupation is  carried on in the open  
air4 ,an acute traveller might also     
conjecture  that the mildness of the    
atmosphere is comfortable and congenial 
to the  parrots1 perroquets1 and        
monkeys1 which are brought over as pets 

and  companions by the sailors4 ,great  
numbers of these exotic birds and       
brutes are to be seen at the windows1   
and they almost give to the town  of    
,havre the appearance of a tropical     
settlement4    ,the quays are strongly  
edged and faced with granite3 the       
streets1 of  which there are forty1 are 
all built in straight lines1 and chiefly
 at  right angles with each other4 ,in  
them are several fountains1 round which 
picturesque groups of women are         
continually collected1 employed with    
,homeric industry in the task of washing
 linen4 ,the churches are ugly1  their  
style is a miserable caricature of      
,roman architecture1 the  interiors are 
incumbered by dirty and dark chapels1   
filled up with wood  carvings4 ,the     
principal church has figures of saints1 
of wretched  execution1 but of the size 
of life1 ranged round the interior4 ,the
  harbor is calculated to contain three 
hundred vessels4 ,the houses are  oddly 
constructed3 they are very narrow1 and  

very lofty1 being commonly  seven       
stories high1 and they are mostly       
fronted with stripes of tiled  slate1   
and intermediate ones of mortar1 so     
fantastically disposed1 that  two are   
rarely seen alike4    ,notwithstanding  
what is alledged by the author of the   
,mmoires sur  ,havre1 in his endeavors  
to give consequence to his native place1
 by  maintaining its antiquity1 it      
appears certain that no mention is made 
of  the town previously to the fifteenth
 century4 ,even so late as #aeji1 its   
scite was occupied by a few hovels1     
clustered round a thatched chapel1      
under the protection of ,notre ,dame de 
,grace1 from whom the place derived  the
 name of ,havre de ,grace4 ,francis     
,ist1 who was the real founder#db  of   
,havre1 was desirous of changing this   
name to ,franoisville or                
,franciscopole4 ,but the will of a      
sovereign1 as ,goube very justly        
observes1 most commonly dies with him3  
in our days1 the ,national  ,convention1

 aided by the full force of popular     
enthusiasm1 has equally  failed in a    
similar attempt4 ,the jacobins tried in 
vain to banish the  recollections of    
good ,st4 ,denis1 by unchristening his  
vill under the  appellation of          
,franciade4 ,disobedience to the edict1 
exposed1 indeed1  the contravener to the
 chance of experiencing the martyrdom of
 the  bishop2 yet the mandate still     
produced no effect4 ,nor was ,napolon   
more  successful2 and history affords   
abundant proof1 that it is more easy to 
build a city1 or even to conquer a      
kingdom1 than to alter an established   
name4    ,viewed in its present         
condition1 no town in ,france unites    
more  advantages than ,havre3 it is one 
of the keys of the kingdom2 it commands 
the mouth of the river that leads direct
 to the metropolis2 and it is at  once a
 great commercial town and a naval      
station4 ,possessing such claims  to    
commercial and military pre-eminence1 it
 may appear matter of  surprise that it 

should be of so recent an origin2 but   
the cause is to  be sought for in the   
changes which succeeding centuries have 
induced in  the face of the country--   
,vidi ego qu fuerat quondam durissima   
tellus       ,esse fretum2 vidi factas  
ex quore terras4    ,the sea continually
 loses here1 and1 without great efforts 
on the part  of man to retard the       
operation of the elements1 ,havre may1  
in process of  time1 become what        
,harfleur is4 ,at its origin it stood   
immediately on the  shore2 the          
consequence of which was1 that1 within a
 very few years1 a  high tide buried    
two-thirds of the houses and nearly all 
the  inhabitants4 ,the remembrance of   
this dreadful calamity is still annually
  renewed by a solemn procession on the 
fifteenth of ,january4    ,with regard  
to historical events connected with     
,havre1 there is little  to be said4 ,it
 was the spot whence our ,henry ,v,i,ith
 embarked1 in #adhe1  aided by four     
thousand men from ,charles ,v,i,i,ith1  

of ,france1 to enforce  his claim to the
 ,english crown4 ,the town was seized by
 the ,huguenots1  and delivered to our  
,queen ,elizabeth1 in #aefb4 ,but it was
 held by her  only till the following   
year1 when ,charles ,i,xth1 with        
,catherine of  ,medicis1 commanded the  
siege in person1 and pressed it so      
vigorously1  that the ,earl of ,warwick 
was obliged to evacuate the place1 after
 having  sacrificed the greater part of 
his troops4 ,at the end of the following
  century1 after the bombardment and    
destruction of ,dieppe1 an attack was   
made upon ,havre1 but without success1  
owing to the strength of the            
fortifications1 and particularly of the 
citadel4 ,for this1 the town was        
indebted to ,cardinal ,richelieu1 who   
was its governor for a considerable     
time1 and who also erected some of its  
public buildings1 improved the  basin1  
and gave a fresh impulse to trade1 by   
ordering several large  ships of war to 
be built here4 ,as ship-builders1 the   

inhabitants of  ,havre have always had a
 high character3 they stand conspicuous 
in the  annals of the art1 for the      
construction of the vessel called la    
,grande  ,franoise1 and justly termed la
 grande1 as having been of two  thousand
 tons burthen4 ,her cables are said to  
have been above the  thickness of a     
man's leg2 and1 besides what is usually 
found in a ship1  she contained a       
wind-mill and a tennis-court#dc4 ,her   
destination was1  according to some     
authors1 the ,east ,indies2 according to
 others1 the  ,isle of ,rhodes1 then    
attacked by ,soliman ,i,ind2 but we need
 not now  inquire whither she was bound2
 for1 after advantage had been taken of 
two of the highest tides1 the utmost    
which could be done was to tow her  to  
the end of the pier1 where she stuck    
fast1 and was finally obliged to  be cut
 to pieces4 ,her history and catastrophe
 are immortalized by  ,rabelais1 under  
the appellation of la ,grande ,nau      
,franoise4    ,it were unpardonable to  

take leave of ,havre without one word   
upon the  celebrated individuals to whom
 it has given birth2 and you must allow 
me  also1 from our common taste for     
natural history1 to point it out to your
  notice as a spot peculiarly favorable 
for the collecting of fossil  shells1   
which are found about the town and      
neighborhood in great numbers  and      
variety4 ,the ,abb ,dicquemare1 a       
naturalist of considerable eminence1    
who resided here1 may possibly be known 
to you by his observations on  this     
subject1 or still more probably by those
 upon the ,aetini2 the  latter having   
been translated into ,english1 and      
honored with a place in  the            
,transactions of our ,royal ,society4   
,of more extensive1 but not more  justly
 merited1 fame1 are ,george ,scudery and
 his sister ,magdalen3 the  one a       
voluminous writer in his day1 though now
 little known1 except for  his ,critical
 ,observations upon the ,cid2 the other1
 a still more  prolific author of       

novels1 and alternately styled by her   
contemporaries  the ,sappho of her age1 
and un boutique de verbiage2 but        
unquestionably  a writer of merit1      
notwithstanding the many unmanly sneers 
of ,boileau1  whose bitter pen1 like    
that of our own illustrious satirist1   
could not  even consent to spare a      
female that had been so unfortunate as  
to  provoke his resentment4 ,she died in
 #agja1 at the advanced age of          
ninety-four4 ,the last upon my list is  
one of whom death has very  recently    
deprived the world1 the excellent       
,bernardin de ,saint ,pierre2 a  man    
whose writings are not less calculated  
to improve the heart than to  enlarge   
the mind4 ,it is impossible to read his 
works without feeling  love and respect 
for the author4 ,his exquisite little   
tale of ,paul and  ,virginia is in the  
hands of every body2 and his larger     
work1 the  ,studies of ,nature1 deserves
 to be no less generally read1 as full  
of  the most original observations1     

joined to theories always ingenious1    
though occasionally fanciful3 the whole 
conveyed in a singularly  captivating   
style1 and its merits still farther     
enhanced by a constant  flow of         
unaffected piety4    ,the road from     
,havre to ,rouen is of a different      
character1 and altogether  unlike that  
from ,dieppe2 but what it gains in      
beauty of landscape it  loses in        
interest4 ,and yet1 perhaps1 it is even 
wrong to say that it  gains much in     
point of beauty2 for1 though3 trees are 
more generally  dispersed1 though       
cultivation is universal1 and the soil  
good1 and  produce luxuriant1 and though
 the mind and the eye cannot but be     
pleased  by the abundance and verdure of
 the country1 yet in picturesque effect 
it is extremely deficient4 ,monotony1   
even of excellence1 displeases4 ,i  am  
speaking of the road which passes       
through ,bolbec and ,yvetot3 there is   
another which lies nearer to the banks  
of the ,seine1 through ,lillebonne  and 

,caudebec1 and this1 ,i do not doubt1   
would1 in every point of view1  have    
been preferable4    ,at but a short     
distance from ,havre1 to the left1 lies 
the church1  formerly part of the       
priory1 of ,grville1 a picturesque and  
interesting  object4 ,of the date of its
 erection we have no certain knowledge1 
and it  is much to be regretted that we 
have not1 for it is clearly of ,norman  
architecture2 the tower a very pure     
specimen of that style1 and the end  of 
the north transept one of the most      
curious any where to be seen1 and       
apparently2 also one of the most        
ancient#dd4 ,i should therefore feel no 
scruple in referring the building to a  
more early period than the  beginning of
 the thirteenth century1 where our      
records of the  establishment commence2 
for it was then that ,william ,malet1   
,lord of  ,grville1 placed here a number
 of regular canons from ,ste4 ,barbe en 
,auge1 and endowed them with all the    
tythes and patronage he possessed in    

,france and ,england4 ,the act by which 
,walter1 ,archbishop of ,rouen1         
confirmed this foundation1 is dated in  
#abjc4 ,stachys ,germanica1 a  plant of 
extreme rarity in ,england1 grows       
abundantly here by the  road-side2 and  
apple-trees are very numerous1 not only 
edging the road1  but planted in rows   
across the fields4    ,the valley by    
which you enter ,bolbec is pretty and   
varied2 full of trees  and houses1 which
 stand at different heights upon the    
hills on either  side4 ,the town itself 
is long1 straggling1 and uneven4        
,through it runs a  rapid little stream1
 which serves many purposes of extensive
 business1  connected with the cotton   
manufactory1 the preparation of leather1
  cutlery1 c4 ,this stream1 of the same 
name with the town1 afterwards  falls   
into the ,seine1 near ,lillebonne1 one  
of the most ancient places in           
,normandy1 and formerly the metropolis  
of the ,caletes1 but now only a         
wretched village4 ,tradition refers its 

ruin to the period of the  invasion of  
,gaul by the ,romans2 but it revived    
under the ,norman ,dukes1  who resided  
here a portion of the year1 and it was a
 favorite seat of  ,william the         
,conqueror4 ,to him1 or to one of his   
immediate predecessors  or successors1  
it is most probable that the castle owes
 its existence4  ,mr4 ,cotman found the 
ruins of it extensive and remarkable4   
,the  importance of the place1 at a far 
more early date1 is proved by the       
medals of the ,upper and ,lower ,empire1
 which are frequently dug up here1  and 
not less decisively by the many ,roman  
roads which originate from the  town4   
,bolbec can lay claim to no similar     
distinction2 but it is full of          
industrious manufacturers4 ,twice in the
 last century it was burned to  the     
ground2 and1 after each conflagration1  
it has arisen more  flourishing from its
 ashes4 ,at the last1 which happened in 
#agfe1 ,louis  ,x,vth made a donation to
 the town of eighty thousand livres1 and

 the  parliament of ,normandy added a   
gratuity of half as much more1 to assist
  the inhabitants in repairing their    
losses4    ,yvetot1 the next stage1     
possesses no visible interest1 and      
furnishes no  employment for the pencil4
 ,the town is1 like ,bolbec1 a residence
 for  manufacturers2 and the curious    
stranger would seek in vain for any     
traces of decayed magnificence1 any     
vestiges or records of a royal          
residence4 ,and yet1 it is held that    
,yvetot was the capital of a  kingdom1  
which1 if it really did exist1 had      
certainly the distinction  of being the 
smallest that ever was ruled on its own 
account4 ,the  subject has much         
exercised the talents and ingenuity of  
historians4 ,it  has been maintained by 
the affirmants1 that an actual monarchy 
existed  here at a period as remote as  
the sixth century2 others argue that1   
though the ,lords of ,yvetot may have   
been stiled ,kings1 the distinction  was
 merely titular1 and was not conferred  

till about the year #adjj2  whilst a    
third1 and1 perhaps1 most numerous1     
body1 treat the whole as  apocryphal4   
,robert ,gaguin#de1 a ,french historian 
of the fifteenth century1 prefaces  the 
anecdote by observing1 that he is the   
first ,french writer by whom  it is     
recorded2 and1 as if sensible that such 
a remark could not fail to  excite      
suspicion1 he proceeds to say1 that it  
is wonderful that his  predecessors     
should have been silent4 ,yet he        
certainly was not the first  who stated 
the story in print2 for it appears in   
the ,chronicles of  ,nicholas ,gilles1  
which were printed in #adib1 whilst the 
earliest edition  of ,gaugin was        
published in #adig4--;,according to     
these monkish historians1  ,clotharius1 
of ,france1 son of ,clovis1 had         
threatened the life of his  chamberlain1
 ,gaultier1 ,lord of ,yvetot1 who       
thereupon fled the kingdom1  and for ten
 years remained in voluntary exile1     
fighting against the  infidels4 ,at the 

end of this period1 ,gaultier hoped that
 the anger of  his sovereign might be   
appeased1 and he accordingly went to    
,rome1 and  implored the aid of the     
,supreme ,pontiff4 ,pope ,agapetus      
pitied the  wanderer2 and he gave unto  
him a letter addressed to the ,king of  
the  ,franks1 in which he interceded for
 the supplicant4 ,clotharius was then   
residing at ,soissons1 his capital1 and 
thither ,gaultier repaired on           
,good-,friday1 in the year #ecf1 and1   
availing himself of the moment when  the
 ,king was kneeling before the altar1   
threw himself at the feet of the  royal 
votary1 beseeching pardon in the name of
 the common ,savior of  mankind1 who on 
that day shed his blood for the         
redemption of the human  race4 ,but his 
prayers and appeal were in vain3 he     
found no pardon2  ,clothair drew his    
sword1 and slew him on the spot4 ,the   
,pope threatened  the monarch with      
apostolical vengeance1 and ,clothair    
attempted to atone  for the murder1 by  

raising the town and territory of       
,yvetot into a  kingdom1 and granting it
 in perpetuity to the heirs of          
,gaultier4    ,such is the tradition4   
,there is a very able dissertation upon 
the  subject1 by the ,abb de ,vertot#df1
 who endeavors to disprove the whole    
story3 first by the silence of all      
contemporary authors2 then by the  fact1
 that ,yvetot was not at that time under
 the dominion of ,clothair2  then by an 
anachronism1 which the story involves as
 to ,pope ,agapetus2  and finally by    
sundry other arguments of minor         
importance4 ,even he1  however1 admits1 
that in a royal decree1 dated #acib1 and
 preserved among  the records of the    
,exchequer of ,normandy1 the title of   
,king is given  to the ,lord of ,yvetot2
 and he is obliged to cut the knot1     
which he is  unable to untie1 by stating
 it as his opinion1 that at or about    
this  period ,yvetot was really raised  
into a sovereignty1 though1 on what     
occasion1 for what purpose1 and with    

what privileges1 no document  remains to
 prove4 ,as a parallel case1 he         
instances the ,peers of ,france1  an    
order with whose existence every body is
 acquainted1 while of the  date of the  
establishment nothing is known4 ,it is  
surprising1 that so  clear-sighted a    
writer did not perceive that he was     
doing nothing more  than illustrating1  
as the logicians say1 obscurum per      
obscurius1 or1  rather1 making darkness 
more dark2 as if it were not            
considerably more  probable1 that so    
strange a circumstance should have taken
 place in the  sixth century1 and have  
been left unrecorded1 when society was  
unformed1  anomalies frequent1 and      
historians few1 than that it should have
  happened in the fourteenth1 a period  
when the government of ,france was      
completely settled in a regular form1   
under one monarch1 when literature  was 
generally diffused1 and when every      
remarkable event was chronicled4        
,besides which1 the inhabitants of the  

little kingdom continued1 in some       
measure1 independent of his ,most       
,christian ,majesty1 even until the     
revolution4 ,at least1 they paid not a  
sou of taxes1 neither aides1 nor        
tenth-penny1 nor gabelle4 ,it was a     
sanctuary into which no farmer  of the  
revenue dared to enter4 ,and it is      
hardly to be doubted1 but that  there   
must have been some very singular cause 
for so singular and  enviable a         
privilege4 ,in our own days1 ,m4        
,duputel#dg1 a member of the  academy of
 ,rouen1 has entered the lists against  
the ,abb2 and between  them the matter  
is still undecided1 and is likely so to 
continue4 ,for  myself1 ,i have no means
 of throwing light upon it2 but the     
impression  left upon my mind1 after    
reading both sides of the question1 is1 
that  the arguments are altogether in   
favor of ,vertot1 while the greater     
weight of probabilities is in the       
opposite scale4 ,i shall leave you1     
however1 to poise the balance1 and ,i   

shall not attempt to cause either  end  
of the beam to preponderate1 by acting  
the part of ,old ,nick as  before       
exhibited to you2 though ,i decidedly   
believe that ,gaguin had some  authority
 for his tale1 but1 by neglecting to    
quote it1 he has left the  minds of his 
readers to uncertainty1 and his own     
veracity to suspicion4    ,with this    
digression ,i bid farewell to ,yvetot1  
and its ,lilliputian  kingdom2 nor will 
,i detain you much longer on the way to 
,rouen1 the road  passing through       
nothing likely to afford interest in    
point of historical  recollection or    
antiquities2 though within a very short 
distance of the  ancient ,abbey of      
,pavilly on the one side1 and at no     
great distance from  the still more     
celebrated ,monastery of ,jumieges on   
the other4 ,the houses  in this         
neighborhood are in general composed of 
a framework of wood1  with the          
interstices filled with clay1 in which  
are imbedded small  pieces of glass1    

disposed in rows1 for windows4 ,the     
wooden studs are  preserved from the    
weather by slates1 laid one over the    
other1 like the  scales of a fish1 along
 their whole surface1 or occasionally by
 wood  over wood in the same manner4 ,i 
am told that there are some very ancient
  timber churches in ,norway1 erected   
immediately after the conversion of  the
 ,northmen1 which are covered with      
wood-scales3 the coincidence is         
probably accidental1 yet it is not      
altogether unworthy of notice4 ,at one  
end the roof projects beyond the gable  
four or five feet1 in order to  protect 
a door-way and ladder or staircase that 
leads to it2 and this  elevation has a  
very picturesque effect4 ,a series of   
villages1 composed  of cottages of this 
description1 mixed with large           
manufactories and  extensive bleaching  
grounds1 comprise all that is to be     
remarked in the  remainder of the ride2 
a journey that would be as interesting  
to a  traveller in quest of statistical 

information1 as it would be the         
contrary to you or to me4    ,poverty1  
the inseparable companion of a          
manufacturing population1 shews  itself 
in the number of beggars that infest    
this road as well as that  from ,calais 
to ,paris4 ,they station themselves by  
the side of every hill1  as regularly as
 the mendicants of ,rome were wont to do
 upon the bridges4  ,sometimes a small  
nosegay thrown into your carriage       
announces the  petition in language1    
which1 though mute1 is more likely to   
prove  efficacious than the loudest     
prayer4 ,most commonly1 however1 there  
is no  lack of words2 and1 after a      
plaintive voice has repeatedly assailed 
you  with une petite charit1 s'il vous  
plait1 ,messieurs et ,dames1 an  appeal 
is generally made to your devotion1 by  
their gabbling over the  ,lord's ,prayer
 and the ,creed with the greatest       
possible velocity4 ,at the  conclusion1 
,i have often been told that they have  
repeated them once1  and will do so a   

second time if ,i desire it6 ,should all
 this prove  ineffectual1 you will not  
fail to hear allons1 ,messieurs et      
,dames1 pour  l'amour de ,dieu1 qu'il   
vous donn un bon voyage1 or probably a  
song or two2 the whole interlarded with 
scraps of prayers1 and  ave-marias1 and 
promises to secure you sant et salut4   
,they go through  it with an earnestness
 and pertinacity almost inconceivable1  
whatever  rebuffs they may receive4     
,their good temper1 too1 is undisturbed1
 and  their face is generally as piteous
 as their language and tone2 though     
every now and then a laugh will out1 and
 probably at the very moment  when they 
are telling you they are pauvres petits 
misrables1 or  petits malheureux1 qui   
n'ont ni pre ni mre4 ,with all this they
 are  excellent flatterers4 ,an         
,englishman is sure to be milord1 and a 
lady  to be ma belle duchesse1 or ma    
belle princesse4 ,they will try too to  
please you by vivent les ,anglais1 vive 
,louis dix-huit4 ,in #ahad and  #ahae1  

,i remember the cry used commonly to be 
vive ,napolon1 but they  have now       
learned better2 and1 in truth1 they had 
no reason to bear  attachment to the    
ex-emperor1 an early maxim of whose     
policy it was to  rid the face of the   
country of this description of persons1 
for which  purpose he established       
workhouses1 or dpots de mendicit1 in    
each  department1 and his gendarmes were
 directed to proceed in the most        
summary manner1 by conveying every      
mendicant and vagrant to these          
receptacles1 without listening to any   
excuse1 or granting any delay4 ,he  had 
no clear idea of the necessity of the   
gentle formalities of a  summons1 and a 
pass under his worship's hand and seal4 
,and1 without  entering into the        
elaborate researches respecting the     
original habitat  of a mumper1 which are
 required by the ,english law1 he       
thought that  pauperism could be        
sufficiently protected by consigning the
 specimen to  the nearest cabinet4 ,the 

simple and rigorous plan of ,napolon was
  conformable to the nature of his      
government1 and it effectually answered 
the purpose4 ,the day1 therefore1 of his
 exile to ,elba was a ,beggar's  ,opera 
throughout ,france2 and they have kept  
up the jubilee to the  present hour1 and
 seem likely to persist in maintaining  
it4    ,footnotes3    #da ,goube1       
,histoire de la ,normandie1 ,,iii4 p4   
#abg4    #db ,franois premier1 revenant 
vainqueur de la bataille de ,marignan en
  #aeae1 crut devoir profiter de la     
situation avantageuse de la ,crique2 il 
conut le dessin de l'agrandir et d'en   
faire une place de guerre  importante4  
,ce prince avoit pris les interts du    
jeune ,roi d',ecosse1  ,jacques ,v1 et  
ce fut pour se fortifier contre les     
,anglais qu'il forma la  rsolution de   
leur opposer cette barrire4 ,pour       
conduire l'entreprise il  jetta les yeux
 sur un ,gentilhomme nomm ,guion le     
,roi1 ,seigneur de  ,chillon1           
,vice-,amiral1 et ,capitaine de         

,honfleur1 et la premiere pierre  fut   
pose en #aeaf4--;,description de la     
,haute ,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #aie4    #dc  
,description de la ,haute ,normandie1   
,i4 p4 #bjj4    #dd ,see ,cotman's      
,architectural ,antiquities of          
,normandy1 t4 #ab4--,there  is also a   
general view of the church1 and of some 
of the monastic  buildings from the     
lithographic press of the ,comte de     
,lasteyrie4    #de ,sed priusqum a      
,clotario discedo1 illud non            
prtermittendum reor1  quod1 cm maxim    
cognitu dignum est1 mirari licet a nullo
 ,franco  ,scriptore litteris fuisse    
commendatum4 ,fuit inter familiarissimos
  ,clotarii aulicos1 ,galterus          
,yvetotus1 ,caletus agri ,rothomagensis1
 apprim  nobilis et qui regii cubiculi  
primarius cultor esset4 ,huic pro su    
integritate1 de ,clotario cm melis      
melisque in dies promereretur1  reliqui 
aulici invident1 depravantes quodlibet  
ab eo gestum1 nec  desistunt donec      
irritatum illi ,clotarium pessimis      

susurris efficiunt2  quamobrem jurat    
,rex se hominem necaturum4 ,percept     
,clotarii  indignatione1 ,galterus      
pugnator illustris cedere ,regi irato   
constituit4  ,igitur derelict ,franci in
 militiam adversus religionis catholic  
inimicos pergit1 ubi decem annos multis 
prosper gestis rebus1 ratus  ,clotarium 
simul cum tempore mitiorem effectum1    
,romam in primis ad  ,agapitum          
,pontificem se contulit3 a quo ad       
,clotarium impetratis litteris1  ad eum 
,suessione agentem se protins confert1  
,veneris die1 qu parasceve  dicitur1    
cogitans religiosam ,christianis diem ad
 pietatem sibi  profuturam4 ,verm       
litteris ,pontificis exceptis cm        
,galterum ,clotarius  agnovit1 vetere ir
 tanquam recenti livore percitus1 rapto 
a proximo  sibi equite gladio1 hominem  
statm interemit4 ,tam indignam insignis 
atque innocentis hominis necem1         
religioso loco et die ad ,christi       
passionem recolendam celebri1 pontifex  
inquanimitr ferens1 confestm  ,clotarium

 reprehendit1 monetque iniquissimi      
facinoris rationem habere1  se alioquin 
excommunicationis sententiam subiturum4 
,agapiti monita  reveritus ,rex1 capto  
cum prudentibus consilio1 ,galteri      
hredes1 et qui  ,yvetotum deinceps      
possiderent1 ab omni ,francorum ,regum  
ditione atque  fide liberavit1          
liberosque prorss fore suo syngrapho et 
regiis scriptis  confirmat4 ,ex quo     
factum est ut ejus pagi et terr         
possessor ,regem se  ,yvetoti hactenus  
sine controversi nominaverit4 ,id autem 
anno christian  grati quingentesimo     
trigesimo sexto gestum esse indubi fide 
invenio4  ,nam dominantibus longo post  
tempore in ,normanni4 ,anglis1 ortque   
inter  ,joannem ,hollandum1 ,auglum1 et 
,yvetoti dominum qustione1 quasi        
proventuum ejus terr pars fisco ,regis  
,anglorum quotannis obnoxia esset1      
,caleti ,proprtor anno salutis #adbh1 de
 ratione litis judiciario ordine  se    
instruens1 id1 sicut annotatum a me est1
 comperisse  judicavit4--,robert        

,gaguin1 lib4 ,,ii4 fol4 #ag4    #df    
,mmoires de l',acadmie des              
,inscriptions1 ,,iv4 p4 #gbh4--,the     
question is also discussed in the ,trait
 de la ,noblesse1 by ,m4 de la  ,roque2 
in the ,mercure de ,france1 for         
,january1 #agbf2 and in a ,latin        
treatise by ,charles ,malingre1 entitled
 ,de fals regni ,yvetoti  narratione1 ex
 majoribus commentariis fragmentum4     
#dg ,prcis ,analytique des ,travaux de  
l',acadmie de ,rouen1 #ahaa1 p4  #aha4  
,,letter ,,vii4    ,,on ,,the ,,state   
,,of ,,affairs ,,in ,,france4           
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,abandoning1 
for the present1 all discussion of the  
themes of the elder  day1 ,i shall      
occupy myself with matters relating to  
the living world4  ,the fatigued and    
hungry traveller1 whose flesh is weaker 
than his  spirit1 is often too apt to   
think that his bed and his supper are of
  more immediate consequence than       
churches or castles4 ,and to those who  
are in this predicament1 there is a     

material improvement at ,rouen1 since   
,i was last here3 nothing could be worse
 than the inns of the year #ahae2  but  
four years of peace have effected a     
wonderful alteration1 and  nothing can  
now be better than the ,htel de         
,normandie1 where we have  fixed our    
quarters4 ,objection may1 indeed1 be    
made to its situation1 as  to that of   
every other htel in the city2 but this  
is of little moment  in a town1 where   
every house1 whatever street or place it
 may front1  opens into a court-yard1 so
 that its views are confined to what    
passes  within its own quadrangle2 and1 
for excellence of accommodations1       
elegance of furniture1 skill in cookery1
 civility of attendance1 nay1  even for 
what is more rare1 neatness1 our host1  
,m4 ,trimolet1 may  challenge           
competition with almost any             
establishment in ,europe4 ,for the  rent
 of the house1 which is one of the most 
spacious in ,rouen1 he pays  three      
thousand francs a year2 and1 as         

house-rent is one of the main  standards
 of the value of the circulating medium1
 ,i will add1 that our  friend1 ,m4     
,rondeau1 for his1 which is not only    
among the largest but  among the most   
elegant and the best placed for         
business1 pays but five  hundred francs 
more4 ,this1 then1 may be considered as 
the maximum at  ,rouen4 ,yet ,rouen is  
far from being the place which should be
 selected by  an ,englishman1 who       
retires to ,france for the purpose of   
economizing3  living in general is      
scarcely one-fourth cheaper than in our 
own  country4 ,at ,caen it is           
considerably more reasonable2 on the    
banks of the  ,loire the expences of a  
family do not amount to one-half of the 
,english  cost2 and still farther south 
a yet more sensible reduction takes     
place1  the necessaries of life being   
cheaper by half than they are in        
,normandy1  and house-rent by full      
four-fifths4    ,a foreigner can glean  
but little useful information respecting

 the  actual state of a country through 
which he journeys with as much  rapidity
 as ,i have done4 ,and still less is he 
able to secern the truth  from the      
falsehood1 or to weigh the probabilities
 of conflicting  testimony4 ,i therefore
 originally intended to be silent on    
this subject4  ,there is a story told1  
,i believe1 of ,voltaire1 at least it   
may be as  well told of ,voltaire as of 
any other wit1 that1 being once in      
company  with a very talkative empty    
,frenchman1 and a very glum and silent  
,englishman1 he afterwards characterized
 them by saying1 l'un ne dit que  des   
riens1 et l'autre ne dit rien4 ,fearing 
that my political and  statistical      
observations1 which in good truth are   
very slender1 might be  ranked but too  
truly in the former category1 ,i had    
resolved to confine  them to my own     
notebook4 ,yet we all take so much      
interest in the  destinies of our       
ancient rival and enemy1 7,i wish ,i    
could add1 our  modern friend17 that1   

according to my usual habit1 ,i changed 
my  determination within a minute after 
,i had formed it2 for ,i yielded to  the
 impression1 that even my scanty        
contribution would not be wholly        
unacceptable to you4    ,france1 ,i am  
assured on all sides1 is rapidly        
improving1 and the  government is       
satisfactory to all liberal men1 in     
which number ,i  include persons of     
every opinion1 except the emigrants and 
those  attached exclusively to the      
ancien rgime4 ,men of the latter        
description are commonly known by the   
name of ,ultras2 and1 speaking  with a  
degree of freedom1 which is practised   
here1 to at least as great  an extent as
 in ,england1 they do not hesitate to   
express their decided  disapprobation of
 the present system of government1 and  
to declare1 not  only that ,napolon was 
more of a royalist than ,louis1 but that
 the ,king  is a jacobin4 ,they persuade
 themselves also1 and would fain        
persuade  others1 that he is generally  

hated2 and their doctrine is1 that the  
nation is divided into three parties1   
ready to tear each other in  pieces3 the
 ,ministerialists1 who are few1 and in  
every respect  contemptible2 the        
,ultras1 not numerous1 but headed by the
 ,princes1 and  thus far of weight2 and 
the ,revolutionists1 who1 in point of   
numbers1  as well as of talents and of  
opulence1 considerably exceed the other 
two1 and will1 probably1 ultimately     
prevail2 so that these conflicts of     
opinion will terminate by decomposing   
the constitutional monarchy into a      
republic4 ,to listen to these men1 you  
might almost fancy they were  quoting   
from ,clarendon's ,history of the       
,rebellion in our own country2  so      
entirely do their feelings coincide with
 those of the courtiers who  attended   
,charles in his exile4 ,similar too is  
the reward they receive2  for it is     
difficult for a monarch to be just1     
however he may in some  cases he        
generous4    ,yet even the ,ultras admit

 that the revolution has been beneficial
 to  ,france1 though they are willing to
 confine its benefits to the            
establishment of the trial by jury1 and 
the correction of certain abuses        
connected with the old system of        
nobility4 ,among the advantages         
obtained1 they include the abolition of 
the game laws2 and1 indeed1 ,i am       
persuaded1 from all ,i hear1 that this  
much-contested question could not       
receive a better solution than by       
appealing to the present laws in        
,france4 ,game is here altogether the   
property of the land-owner2 it is       
freely exposed for sale1 like other     
articles of food2 and every one is      
himself at liberty to sport1 or to      
authorize his friend to do so over  his 
property1 with no other restriction than
 that of taking out a  licence1 or port 
d'armes1 which1 for fifteen francs1 is  
granted  without difficulty to any man  
of respectability1 whatever may be his  
condition in life4 ,in this particular1 

,i cannot but think that ,france  has   
set us an example well worthy of our    
imitation2 and she also shews  that it  
may be followed without danger2 for     
neither do the pleasures of  the field  
lose their relish1 nor is the game      
extirpated4 ,the former are  a subject  
of conversation in almost every company2
 and1 as to the  latter1 whatever       
slaughter may have taken place in the   
woods and  preserves1 at the first burst
 of the revolution1 ,i am assured that a
  good sportsman may1 at the present    
time1 between ,dieppe and ,rouen kill   
with ease1 in a day1 fifty head of game1
 consisting principally of  hares1      
quails1 and partridges4    ,but1 while  
these men thus restrict the benefits    
derived from the  revolution1 the case  
is far different with individuals of the
 other  parties1 all of whom are loud   
and unanimous in its praises4 ,the good 
resulting from the republic has been    
purchased at a dreadful price1 but  the 
good remains2 and those1 who now enjoy  

the boon1 are not inclined to  remember 
the blood which drenched the            
three-colored banner4 ,thirty years     
have elapsed1 and a new generation has  
arisen1 to whom the horrors of  the     
revolution live only in the page of     
history4 ,but its advantages are  daily 
felt in the equal nature and equal      
administration of the laws2 in  the     
suppression of the monasteries with     
their concomitant evils2 in the         
restriction of the powers of the clergy2
 in the liberty afforded to all  modes  
of religious worship2 and in the        
abolition of all the edicts and         
mandates and prejudices1 which secured  
to a peculiar sect and caste a  monopoly
 of all the honors and distinctions of  
the common-wealth2 for  now1 every      
individual of talent and character feels
 that the path to  preferment and power 
is not obstructed by his birth or his   
opinions4    ,the constitutional        
charter1 in its present state1 is a     
subject of pride  to the ,french1 and a 

sure bulwark to the throne4 ,the        
representative  system is beginning to  
be generally appreciated1 and           
particularly in  commercial towns4 ,the 
deputies of this department are to be   
changed the  approaching autumn1 and the
 minds of men are already anxiously bent
 upon  selecting such representatives as
 may best understand and promote their  
local interests4 ,few acts of the       
,bourbon government have contributed    
more powerfully to promote the          
popularity of the ,king1 than the law   
enacted in the course of last year1     
which abolished the double election1    
and enabled the voters to give their    
suffrages directly for their  favorite  
candidate1 thus putting a stop at once  
to a variety of unfair  influence1      
previously exerted upon such occasions4 
,the same law has also  created a       
general interest upon the subject1 never
 before known2 the  strongest proof of  
which is1 that1 of the six or eight     
thousand electors  contained in this    

department1 nearly the whole are        
expected now to vote1  whereas not a    
third ever did so before4 ,the          
qualifications for an  elector and a    
deputy are uniform throughout the       
kingdom1 and depending  upon few        
requisites2 nothing more being required 
in the former case1  than the payment of
 three hundred francs per annum1 in     
direct taxes1 and  the having attained  
the age of thirty2 while an addition of 
ten years to  the age1 and the payment  
of one thousand francs1 instead of three
  hundred1 renders every individual     
qualified to be of the number of the    
elected4 ,the system1 however1 is       
subject to a restriction1 which         
provides1 that at least one half of the 
representatives of each  department     
shall be chosen from among those who    
reside in it4    ,in the beginning of   
the revolution1 a much wider door was   
open3 all that  was then necessary to   
entitle a man to vote1 was1 that he     
should be  twenty-one years of age1 a   

,frenchman1 and one who had lived for a 
year  in the country on his own revenue1
 or on the produce of his labor1 and    
was not in a state of servitude4 ,it was
 then also decreed1 that the  electors  
should have each three livres a day     
during their mission1 and  should be    
allowed at the rate of one livre a      
league1 for the distance  from their    
usual place of residence1 to that in    
which the election of  members for their
 department is held4 ,such were the only
 conditions  requisite for eligibility1 
either as elector or deputy2 except1    
indeed1  that the citizens in the       
primary assemblies1 and the electors in 
the  electoral assembly1 swore that they
 would maintain liberty and equality1   
or die rather than violate their        
oath#dh4    ,the wisdom and prudence of 
the subsequent alterations1 few will be 
disposed to question3 the system1 in its
 present state1 appears to me  admirably
 qualified to attain the object in view2
 and such seems the  general character  

of the ,french ,constitutional ,charter1
 which unites  two excellent qualities1 
great clearness and great brevity4 ,the 
whole is  comprised in seventy-four     
short articles2 and1 that no ,frenchman 
may  plead ignorance of his rights or   
his duties1 it is usually found         
prefixed to the almanacks4 ,some persons
 might1 indeed1 be inclined to  deem    
this station as ominous2 for1 since the 
revolution began1 the frame  of the     
,french government has sustained so many
 alterations1 that1  considering that   
several of their constitutions never    
outlived the  current quarter1 they may 
be fairly said to have had a new        
constitution  in each year4 ,how far the
 ,bourbon charter will answer the       
purpose of  serving as the basis of a   
code of laws for the government of an   
extensive kingdom1 time only can        
determine4 ,at present1 it has the      
charm of novelty to recommend it2 and   
there are few among us with whom        
novelty is not a strong attraction4 ,our

 friends on this side of the  water are 
greatly belied1 if it be not so with    
them4    ,the finances of the ,french   
municipalities are administered with a  
degree  of fairness and attention1 which
 might put many a body corporate1 in a  
certain island1 to the blush4 ,little is
 known in ,england respecting the       
administration of the ,french towns3 the
 following particulars relating  to the 
revenue and expences of ,rouen1 may1    
therefore1 in some measure1  serve as a 
scale1 by which you may give a guess at 
the balance-sheet of  cities of greater 
or lesser magnitude4--,the budget       
amounted for the last  year to one      
million two hundred thousand francs4    
,the proposed items of  expenditure must
 be particularized1 and submitted to the
 ,prefect and the  ,minister of the     
,interior1 before they can be paid4 ,in 
this sum is  comprised the charge for   
the hospitals1 which contain above three
  thousand persons1 including           
foundlings1 and for all the other public

  institutions1 the number and          
excellence of which has long been the   
pride  of ,rouen4 ,you must consider    
too1 that every thing of this kind is1  
in  ,france1 national3 individuals do   
nothing1 neither is it expected of      
them2 and herein consists one of the    
most essential differences between      
,france and ,england4 ,to meet this     
great expenditure1 the city is provided 
with the rents of public lands1 with    
wharfage1 with tolls from the  markets  
and the halles2 and1 above all1 with the
 octroi1 a tax that  prevails through   
,france1 upon every article of          
consumption brought into  the towns1 and
 is collected at the barriers4 ,the     
octroi1 like  turnpike-tolls or the     
post-horse duty with us1 is farmed2     
two-thirds are  received by the         
government1 and the remaining one-third 
by the town4 ,in  ,rouen it produced the
 last year one million four hundred and 
fifty  thousand francs4--,if1 now1 this 
sum appears to you comparatively greater

  than that of our large cities in      
,england1 you must recollect that1 with 
us1 towns are not liable to similar     
charges3 our corporations support no    
museums1 no academies1 no learned       
bodies2 and our infirmaries1 and        
dispensaries1 and hospitals1 are        
indebted1 as well for their existence   
as their future maintenance1 to the     
piety of the dead1 or the liberality  of
 the living4 ,nor must we forget that1  
even in this great kingdom1  ,rouen1 at 
present1 holds the fifth place among the
 towns2 though it was  far from being   
thus1 when ,buonapart1 uniting the      
imperial to the iron  crown1            
overshadowed with his eagle-wings the   
continent from the ,baltic  to ,apulia2 
and when the mural crowns of ,rome and  
,amsterdam stood beneath  the shield of 
the good city of ,paris4    ,the        
population of ,rouen is estimated at    
eighty-seven thousand persons1  of whom 
the greater number are engaged in the   
manufactories1 which  consist           

principally of cotton1 linen1 and       
woollen cloths1 and are among  the      
largest in ,france4 ,at present1        
however1 trade is dull2 and hence1  and 
as the politics of a trader invariably  
sympathize with his cash  account1      
neither the peace1 nor the ,english1 nor
 the princes of the  ,bourbon dynasty1  
are popular here2 for the articles      
manufactured at  ,rouen1 being designed 
generally for exportation1 ranged almost
  unrivalled over the continent1 during 
the war1 but now in every town  they    
meet with competitors in the goods from 
,england1 which are at once  of superior
 workmanship and cheaper4 ,the latter   
advantage is owing very  much to the    
greater perfection of our machinery1    
and1 perhaps1 still  more to the        
abundance of coals1 which enables us1 at
 so small an  expence1 to keep our      
steam-engines in action1 and thus to    
counterbalance  the disproportion in the
 charge of manual labor1 as well as the 
many  disadvantages arising from the    

pressure of our heavy taxation4--,but ,i
  must cease4 ,an ,english fit of       
growling is coming upon me2 and ,i find 
that the ,blue ,devils1 which haunt ,st4
 ,stephen's chapel1 are pursuing me     
over the channel4    ,footnotes3    #dh 
,moore's ,journal of a ,residence in    
,france1 ,i4 p4 #hb4          ,,letter  
,,viii4    ,,military                   
,,antiquities--,,le ,,vieux             
,,ch,,teau--,,original ,,palace ,,of    
,,the ,,norman  ,,dukes--,,halles ,,of  
,,rouen--,,miracle ,,and ,,privilege    
,,of ,,st4 ,,romain--,,ch,,teau ,,du    
,,vieux ,,palais--,,petit               
,,ch,,teau--,,fort ,,on ,,mont ,,ste4   
,,catherine--,,priory  ,,there--,,chapel
 ,,of ,,st4 ,,michael--,,devotee4       
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah7    ,my researches
 in this city after the remains of      
architectural antiquity  of the earlier 
,norman ra1 have hitherto1 ,i own1 been 
attended with  little success4 ,i may   
even go so far as to say1 that ,i have  
seen nothing  in the circular style1 for

 which it would not be easy to find a   
parallel  in most of the large towns in 
,england4 ,on the other hand1 the       
perfection  and beauty of the specimens 
of the pointed style1 have equally      
surprised  and delighted me4 ,i will    
endeavor1 however1 to take each object  
in its  order1 premising that ,i have   
been materially assisted in my          
investigations by ,m4 ,le ,prevost and  
,m4 ,rondeau1 but especially by the     
former1 one of the most learned         
antiquaries of ,normandy4    ,of the    
fortifications and castellated buildings
 in ,rouen very little  indeed is       
left#di1 and that little is altogether  
insignificant2 being  confined to some  
fragments of the walls scattered here   
and there#ej1  and to three circular    
towers of the plainest construction1 the
 remains  of the old castle1 built by   
,philip ,augustus in #abjd1 near to the 
,porte  ,bouvreuil1 and hence commonly  
known by the name of the ,chteau de     
,bouvreuil or le ,vieux ,chteau4--,it is

 to the leading part which this  city   
has acted in the history of ,france1    
that we must attribute the  repeated    
erection and demolition of its          
fortifications4    ,an important event  
was commemorated by the erection of the 
old castle1  it having been built upon  
the final annexation of ,normandy to the
 crown  of ,france1 in consequence of   
the weakness of our ill-starred         
monarch1--,john ,lackland4 ,the ,french 
,king seems to have suspected that  the 
citizens retained their fealty to their 
former sovereign4 ,he  intended that his
 fortress should command and bridle the 
city1 instead  of defending it4 ,the    
town-walls were razed1 and the ,vieille 
,tour1 the  ancient palace of the       
,norman ,dukes1 levelled with the       
ground4--,but1 as  the poet says of     
language1 so it is with castles1--      
444 mortalia facta peribunt1       ,nec 
castellorum stet honos et gratia vivax2 
and1 in #aeij1 the fortress raised by   
,philip ,augustus experienced the  fate 

of its predecessors2 it was then ruined 
and dismantled1 and the  portion which  
was allowed to stand1 was degraded into 
a jail4 ,now the  three#ea towers just  
mentioned are alone remaining1 and these
 would  attract little notice1 were it  
not that one of them bears the name of  
the ,tour de la ,pucelle1 as having     
been1 in #adcj1 the place of            
confinement of the unfortunate ,joan of 
,arc1 when she was captured before      
,compigne and brought prisoner to       
,rouen4    ,it must be stated1 however1 
that the first castle recorded to have  
existed at ,rouen1 was built by ,rollo1 
shortly after he had made himself       
master of ,neustria4 ,its very name is  
now lost2 and all we know  concerning it
 is1 that it stood near the quay1 at the
 northern extremity  of the town1 in the
 situation subsequently occupied by the 
,church of ,st4  ,pierre du ,chtel1 and 
the adjoining monastery of the          
,cordeliers4    ,after a lapse of less  
than fifty years1 ,rouen saw rising     

within her  walls a second castle1 the  
work of ,duke ,richard ,ist1 and long   
the  residence of the ,norman           
sovereigns4 ,this1 from a tower of great
 strength  which formed a part of it1   
and which was not demolished till the   
year  #abjd1 acquired the appellation of
 la ,vieille ,tour2 and the name        
remains to this day1 though the building
 has disappeared4    ,the space formerly
 occupied by the scite of it is now     
covered by the  halles1 considered the  
finest in ,france4 ,the historians of   
,rouen1 in  the usual strain of         
hyperbole1 hint that their halles are   
even the  finest in the world#eb1 though
 they are very inferior to their        
prototypes at ,bruges and ,ypres4 ,the  
hall1 or exchange1 allotted to the      
mercers1 is two hundred and seventy-two 
feet in length1 by fifty feet  wide3    
those for the drapers and for wool are1 
each of them1 two hundred  feet long2   
and all these are surpassed in size by  
the corn-hall1 whose  length extends to 

three hundred feet4 ,they are built     
round a large  square1 the centre of    
which is occupied by numberless dealers 
in  pottery1 old clothes1 c42 and1 as   
the day on which we chanced to visit    
them was a ,friday1 when alone they are 
opened for public business1 we  found a 
most lively1 curious1 and interesting   
scene4    ,it was on the top of a stone 
staircase1 the present entry to the     
halles1 that the annual ceremony#ec of  
delivering and pardoning a  criminal for
 the sake of ,st4 ,romain1 the tutelary 
protector of ,rouen1  was performed on  
,ascension-day1 according to a privilege
 exercised1 from  time immemorial1 by   
the ,chapter of the ,cathedral4    ,the 
legend is romantic2 and it acquires a   
species of historical  importance1 as it
 became the foundation of a right1      
asserted even in our  own days4 ,my     
account of it is taken from ,dom        
,pommeraye's ,history of the  ,life of  
the ,prelate#ed4--;,he has been relating
 many miracles performed  by him1 and1  

among others1 that of causing the       
,seine1 at the time of a  great         
inundation1 to retire to its channel by 
his command1 agreeably to  the following
 beautiful stanza of ,santeuil3--       
,tangit exundans aqua civitatem2        
,voce ,romanus jubet efficaci2          
,audiunt fluctus1 docilisque cedit      
,unda jubenti4    ,our learned          
,benedictine thus proceeds3--,but the   
following miracle was  deemed a far     
greater marvel1 and it increased the    
veneration of the  people towards ,st4  
,romain to such a degree1 that they     
henceforth  regarded him as an actual   
apostle1 who1 from the authority of his 
office1 the excellence of his doctrine1 
his extreme sanctity1 and the  gift of  
miracles1 deserved to be classed with   
the earliest preachers of  our holy     
faith4 ,in a marshy spot1 near ,rouen1  
was bred a dragon1 the  very counterpart
 of that destroyed by ,st4 ,nicaise4 ,it
 committed  frightful ravages2 lay in   
wait for man and beast1 whom it devoured

  without mercy2 the air was poisoned by
 its pestilential breath1 and it  was   
alone the cause of greater mischief and 
alarm1 than could have been  occasioned 
by a whole army of enemies4 ,the        
inhabitants1 wearied out by  many years 
of suffering1 implored the aid of ,st4  
,romain2 and the  charitable and        
generous pastor1 who dreaded nothing in 
behalf of his  flock1 comforted them    
with the assurance of a speedy          
deliverance4 ,the  design itself was    
noble2 still more so was the manner by  
which he put it  in force2 for he would 
not be satisfied with merely killing the
 monster1  but undertook also to bring  
it to public execution1 by way of       
atonement  for its cruelties4 ,for this 
purpose1 it was necessary that the      
dragon  should be caught2 but when the  
prelate required a companion in the     
attempt1 the hearts of all men failed   
them4 ,he applied1 therefore1 to a      
criminal condemned to death for murder2 
and1 by the promise of a pardon1  bought

 his assistance1 which the certain      
prospect of a scaffold1 had he  refused 
to accompany the saint1 caused him the  
more willingly to lend4  ,together they 
went1 and had no sooner reached the     
marsh1 the monster's  haunt1 than ,st4  
,romain1 approaching courageously1 made 
the sign of the  cross1 and at once put 
it out of the power of the dragon to    
attempt to  do him injury4 ,he then tied
 his stole around his neck1 and1 in that
  state1 delivered him to the prisoner1 
who dragged him to the city1 where  he  
was burned in the presence of all the   
people1 and his ashes thrown  into the  
river4--,the manuscript of the ,abbey of
 ,hautmont1 from which  this legend is  
extracted1 adds1 that such was the fame 
of this miracle  throughout ,france1    
that ,dagobert1 the reigning sovereign1 
sent for ,st4  ,romain to court1 to hear
 a true narrative of the fact from his  
own lips2  and1 impressed with reverent 
awe1 bestowed the celebrated privilege  
upon  him and his successors for ever4  

,the right has1 in comparatively modern 
times1 been more than once  contested1  
but always maintained2 and so great was 
the celebrity of the  ceremony1 that    
princes and potentates have repeatedly  
travelled to  ,rouen1 for the purpose of
 witnessing it4 ,there are not wanting1 
however1  those#ee who treat the whole  
story as allegorical1 and believe it to 
be  nothing more than a symbolical      
representation of the subversion of     
idolatry1 or of the confining of the    
,seine to its channel2 the winding      
course of the river being typified by a 
serpent1 and the word  ,gargouille      
corrupted from gurges4 ,other writers   
differ in minor  points of the story1   
and alledge that the saint had two      
fellow  adventurers1 a thief as well as 
a murderer1 and that the former ran     
away1 while the latter stood firm4 ,you 
will see it thus figured in a  modern   
painting on ,st4 ,romain's altar1 in the
 cathedral2 and there are  two persons  
also with him1 in the only ancient      

representation of the  subject ,i am    
acquainted with1 a bas-relief which till
 lately existed at  the ,porte          
,bouvreuil1 and of which1 by the        
kindness of ,m4 ,riaux1 ,i am  enabled  
to send you a drawing4    ,illustration3
 ,bas-,relief1 representing ,st4 ,romain
    ,to keep alive the tradition1 in    
which ,popish superstition has contrived
  to blend ,judaic customs with heathen 
mythology1 the practice was1 that  the  
prisoner selected for pardon should be  
brought to this place1 called  the      
chapel of ,st4 ,romain1 and should here 
be received by the clergy in  full      
robes1 headed by the archbishop1 and    
bearing all the relics of the  church2  
among others1 the shrine of ,st4        
,romain1 which the criminal1  after     
having been reprimanded and absolved1   
but still kneeling1 thrice  lifted1     
among the shouts of the populace1 and   
then1 with a garland upon  his head and 
the shrine in his hands1 accompanied the
 clergy in  procession to the           

cathedral#ef4--;,but the revolution     
happily consigned  the relics to their  
kindred dust1 and put an end to a       
privilege  eminently liable to abuse1   
from the circumstance of the pardon     
being  extended1 not only to the        
criminal himself1 but to all his        
accomplices2  so that1 an inferior      
culprit sometimes surrendered himself to
 justice1  in confidence of interest    
being made to obtain him the shrine1 and
 thus  to shield under his protection   
more powerful and more guilty           
delinquents4 ,the various modifications1
 however1 of latter times1 had so       
abridged its power1 that it was at last 
only able to rescue a man guilty  of    
involuntary homicide#eg4 ,we may hope1  
therefore1 it was not  altogether       
deserving the hard terms bestowed upon  
it by ,millin#eh who  calls it the most 
absurd1 most infamous1 and most         
detestable of all  privileges1 and      
adduces a very flagrant instance of     
injustice committed  under its          

plea4--,d',algre1 governor of ,gisors1  
in consequence of a  private pique      
against the ,baron du ,hallot1 lord of  
the neighboring town  of ,vernon1       
treacherously assassinated him at his   
own house1 while he was  yet upon       
crutches1 in consequence of the wounds  
received at the siege of  ,rouen4 ,this 
happened during the civil wars2 in the  
course of which1  ,hallot had signalized
 himself as a faithful servant1 and     
useful  assistant to the monarch4 ,the  
murderer knew that there were no hopes  
for  him of royal mercy2 and1 after     
having passed some time in concealment  
and as a soldier in the army of the     
league1 he had recourse to the  ,chapter
 of the ,cathedral of ,rouen1 from whom 
he obtained the promise of  the shrine  
of ,st4 ,romain4 ,to put full           
confidence1 however1 even in this1      
would1 under such circumstances1 have   
been imprudent4 ,the clergy might  break
 their word1 or a mightier power might  
interpose4 ,d',algre1  therefore1       

persuaded a young mam1 formerly a page  
of his1 of the name of  ,pehu1 to       
surrender himself as guilty of the      
crime2 and to him the  privilege was    
granted2 under the sanction of which1   
the real culprit1  and several of his   
accomplices in the assassination1       
obtained a free  pardon4 ,the widow and 
daughter of ,hallot1 in vain            
remonstrated3 the  utmost that could be 
done1 after a tedious law-suit1 was to  
procure a  small fine to be imposed upon
 ,pehu1 and to cause him to be banished 
from  ,normandy and ,picardy and the    
vicinity of ,paris4 ,but regulations    
were in  consequence adopted with       
respect to the exercise of the          
privilege2 and  the pardons granted     
under favor of it were ever afterwards  
obliged to be  ratified under the high  
seal of the kingdom4    ,the ,chteau du 
,vieux ,palais and le petit ,chteau like
 the edifices  which ,i have already    
noticed1 have equally yielded to time   
and violence4  ,m4 ,carpentier has      

furnished us with representations of    
both these  castles1 drawn and etched by
 himself1 in the ,itinerary of ,rouen4  
,the  first of them has also been       
inaccurately figured by ,ducarel1 and   
satisfactorily by ,millin1 in the second
 volume of his ,antiquits  ,nationales2 
where1 to the pen of this most          
meritorious and  indefatigable writer1  
of whom1 as of our ,goldsmith1 it may be
 justly  said1 that nullum fer scribendi
 genus non tetigit1 nullum quod tetigit 
non ornavit1 it affords materials for a 
curious memoir1 blended with  the       
history of our own ,henry ,vth1 and of  
,henry ,i,vth1 of ,france4 ,the  castle 
was the work of the first of these      
sovereigns1 and was begun by  him in    
#adbj1 two years after a seven months'  
siege had put him in  possession of the 
city1 long the capital of his ancestors1
 and had thus  rendered him undisputed  
master of ,normandy4 ,this was an event 
worthy of  being immortalised2 and it   
may easily be imagined that private     

feelings  had no little share in urging 
him to erect a magnificent palace1      
intended at once as a safeguard for the 
town1 and a residence for  himself and  
his posterity4 ,the right to build it   
was an express article  in the          
capitulation he granted to ,rouen1 a    
capitulation of extreme  severity#ei1   
and purchased at the price of three     
hundred thousand  golden crowns1 as well
 as of the lives of three of the most   
distinguished citizens2 ,robert ,livret1
 grand-vicar of the archbishop1  ,john  
,jourdain1 commander of the artillery1  
and ,louis ,blanchard1 captain  of the  
train-bands4 ,the two first of these    
were1 however1 suffered to  ransome     
themselves2 the last1 a man of          
distinguished honor and courage1  was   
beheaded2 but ,henry1 much to his       
credit1 made no farther use of his      
victory1 and even consented to pay for  
the ground required for his  castle4 ,he
 selected for the purpose1 the situation
 where1 defence was  most needed1 upon  

the extremity of the quay1 by the side  
of the river1  near the entrance from   
,dieppe and ,havre4 ,a row of handsome  
houses now  fills the chief part of the 
space occupied by the building1 which1  
at a  subsequent period1 was again      
connected with ,english history#fj1 as  
the  residence of our ,james ,i,ind1    
after the battle of ,la ,hague2 before  
his  spirit was yet sufficiently broken 
to suffer him to give up all thoughts   
of the ,british crown1 and to accept the
 asylum offered by ,louis ,x,i,vth1  in 
the obscure tranquillity of ,saint      
,germain's4 ,it continued perfect  till 
the time of the revolution1 and was of  
great extent and strength1  defended by 
massy circular towers1 surrounded by a  
moat1 and  approachable only by a       
draw-bridge4    ,the castle1 which still
 remains to be described1 and whose     
smaller size  is sufficiently denoted by
 its name1 was also built by the same   
monarch1  but it was raised upon the    
ruins of a similar edifice that had     

existed  since the days of ,king ,john4 
,being situated at the foot of the      
bridge1  the older castle had been      
selected as the spot where it was       
stipulated  that the soldiers1 composing
 the ,anglo-,norman garrison1 should lay
 down  their arms1 when the town        
surrendered to ,philip ,augustus4--,it  
was known  from very early time by the  
appellation of the ,barbican1 a term of 
much disputed signification as well as  
origin3 if we are to conclude1          
according to some authorities1 that it  
denoted either a mere  breast-work1 or a
 watch-tower1 or an appendage to a more 
important  fortress1 it would appear but
 ill applied to a building like the one 
in  question4 ,i should rather believe  
it designated an out-post of any kind2  
and ,i would support my conjecture by   
this very castle1 which was neither     
upon elevated ground1 nor dependent on  
any other4 ,it consisted of two  square 
edifices1 similar to what are called the
 pavillions of the  ,thuilleries1       

flanked by small circular towers with   
conical roofs1 and  connected by an     
embattled wall4 ,not more than fifty    
years have passed  since its demolition2
 yet no traces of it are to be found4   
,a few rocky fragments1 appearing now to
 bid defiance to time1 indicate  the    
scite of the fortress1 which once arose 
on the summit of ,mont ,ste4            
,catherine1 and which1 though dismantled
 by ,henry ,i,vth1 and reduced to a     
state of dilapidation1 was still        
suffered to maintain its ruined         
existence till a few years ago4 ,its    
commanding situation1 upon an  eminence 
three hundred and eighty feet high and  
immediately overhanging  the city1 could
 not but render it of great importance  
towards the  defence of the place2 and  
we accordingly find that ,taillepied1   
who  probably wrote before its          
demolition1 gives it as his opinion1    
that  whoever is in possession of ,mont 
,ste4 ,catherine1 is also master of the 
town1 if he can but have abundant       

supplies of water and provisions2--no   
needless stipulation6 ,at the same time1
 it must be admitted that the  fort was 
equally liable to be converted into the 
means of annoyance4  ,such actually     
proved the case in #aefb1 at which time 
it was seized by  the ,huguenots2 and   
considerations of this nature most      
probably prevailed  with the citizens1  
when they declined the offer made by    
,francis ,ist1 who  proposed at a public
 meeting to enlarge the tower into an   
impregnable  citadel4 ,in the hands of  
the ,protestants1 the fortress1 such as 
it was1  proved sufficient to resist the
 whole army of ,charles ,i,xth1 during  
several days4--,rouen was stoutly       
defended by the reformed1 well aware of 
the sanguinary dispositions of the      
bigotted monarch4 ,they yielded1 and  he
 sullied his victory by giving the city 
up to plunder1 during  twenty-four      
hours2 and we are told1 that it was upon
 this occasion he  first tasted         
heretical blood1 with which1 five years 

afterwards1 he so  cruelly gorged       
himself on the day of ,st4 ,bartholomew4
 ,catherine of  ,medicis accompanied him
 to the siege2 and it is related that   
she herself  led him to the ditches of  
the ramparts1 in which many of their    
adversaries had been buried1 and caused 
the bodies to be dug up in his          
presence1 that he might be accustomed to
 look without horror upon the  corpse of
 a ,protestant6    ,near the fort stood 
a priory#fa1 whose foundation is dated  
as far back  as the eleventh century1   
when ,gosselin1 ,viscount of ,rouen1    
,lord of  ,arques and ,dieppe1 having no
 son to inherit his wealth1 was induced 
to  dispose of it to pious uses1 by the 
persuasions of two monks1 who had       
wandered in pilgrimage from the         
monastery of ,saint ,catherine1 on      
,mount  ,sinai4 ,these good men assured 
him1 that1 if he dedicated a church to  
the martyred daughter of the ,king of   
,alexandria1 the stones employed in     
building it would one day serve him as  

so many stepping-stones to  heaven4     
,they confirmed him in his resolution1  
by presenting him with one  of the      
fingers of ,saint ,catherine4 ,to her1  
therefore1 the edifice was  made sacred1
 and hence it is believed that the hill 
also took its name4  ,in the ,golden    
,legend1 we find an account of the      
translation of the  finger to ,rouen not
 wholly reconcileable with this         
history4--,according  to the veracious  
authority of ,james of ,voragine1 there 
were certain  monks of ,rouen1 who      
journeyed even until the ,arabian       
mountain4 ,for seven  long years did    
they pray before the shrine of the      
,queen ,virgin and  ,martyr1 and also   
did they implore her to vouchsafe to    
grant them some  token of her favor2    
and1 at length1 one of her fingers      
suddenly  disjointed itself from the    
dead hand of the corpse4--,this gift1 as
 the  legend tells1 they received       
devoutly1 and with it they returned to  
their monastery at ,rouen4--,never was a

 miracle less miraculous2 and it  is    
fortunately now of little consequence to
 inquire whether the  mouldering relic  
enriched an older monastery1 or assisted
 in bestowing  sanctity on a rising     
community4 ,according to the            
pseudo-hagiologists1  the corpse of     
,saint ,catherine was borne through the 
air by angels1 and  deposited on the    
summit of ,mount ,sinai1 on the spot    
where her church is  yet standing4      
,conforming1 as it were1 to the example 
of the angels1 it  was usual1 in the    
middle ages1 to erect her religious     
buildings on an  eminence4 ,various     
instances may be given of this practice 
in ,england1 as  well as in ,france3    
such is the case near ,winchester1 near 
,christ-,church1 in the ,isle of ,wight1
 and in many other places4 ,st4         
,michael contested the honor with her2  
and he likewise has a chapel here1      
whose walls are yet standing4 ,its      
antiquity was still greater than that   
of the neighboring monastery2 a charter 

from ,duke ,richard ,i,ind1 dated  #iif1
 speaking of it as having had existence 
before his time1 and  confirming the    
donation of it to the ,abbey of ,st4    
,ouen4 ,but ,st4  ,michael's never      
rivalled the opulence of ,saint         
,catherine's  priory4--,gosselin        
himself1 and ,emmeline his wife1 lay    
buried in the  church of the latter1    
which is said to have been large1 and to
 have  resembled in its structure that  
of ,st4 ,georges de ,bocherville3 it is 
also recorded1 that it was ornamented   
with many beautiful paintings2 and  loud
 praises are bestowed upon its fine peal
 of bells4 ,the epitaph of  the founder 
speaks of him1 as--        ,premier     
,autheur des mesures et poids           
,selon raison en ce pis ,normand4    ,it
 is somewhat remarkable1 that there     
appear to have been only two other      
monumental inscriptions in the church1  
and both of them in memory of  cooks of 
the convent2 a presumptive proof that   
the holy fathers were not  inattentive  

to the good things of this world1 in the
 midst of their  concern for those of   
the next4--,the first of them was for   
,stephen de  ,saumere1--        ,qui en 
son vivant cuisinier       ,fut de      
,rvrend ,pere en ,dieu1       ,de la    
,barre1 ,abb de ce lieu4    ,the other  
was for--        ,thierry ,gueroult1 en 
broche et en fossets       ,gueu        
trs-expert pour les ,religieux4    ,the 
fort and the religious buildings all    
perished nearly at the same  time3 the  
former was destroyed at the request of  
the inhabitants1 to  whom ,henry ,i,vth 
returned on that occasion his well-known
 answer1 that he  wished for no other   
fortress than the hearts of his         
subjects2 the  latter to gratify the    
avarice of individuals1 who cloked their
 true  designs under the plea that the  
buildings might serve as a harbor for   
the disaffected4    ,of the origin of   
the fort ,i find no record in history1  
except what ,noel  says#fb1 that it     
appears to have been raised by the      

,english while they  were masters of    
,normandy2 but what ,i observed of the  
structure of the  walls1 in #ahae1 would
 induce me to refer it without much     
hesitation to  the time of the ,romans4 
,its bricks are of the same form and    
texture as  those used by them2 and they
 were ranged in alternate courses with  
flints1 as is the case at ,burgh        
,castle1 at ,richborough1 and other     
,roman  edifices in ,england4 ,that the 
fort was of great size and strength is  
sufficiently shewn by the depth1 width1 
and extent of the entrenchments  still  
left1 which1 particularly towards the   
plain1 are immense2 and1 if  credence   
may be given to common report1 in such  
matters always apt to  exaggerate1 the  
subterraneous passages indicate a       
fortress of  importance4    ,it chanced1
 that ,i visited the hill on            
,michaelmas-day1 and a curious  proof   
was afforded me1 that1 at however low an
 ebb religion may be in  ,france1       
enthusiastic fanaticism is far from     

extinct4 ,a man of the lower  classes of
 society was praying before a broken    
cross1 near ,st4 ,michael's  ,chapel1   
where1 before the revolution1 the monks 
of ,st4 ,ouen used  annually on this day
 to perform mass1 and many persons of   
extraordinary  piety were wont to       
assemble the first ,wednesday of every  
month to pray  and to preach1 in honor  
of the guardian angels4 ,his manner was 
earnest  in the extreme2 his eyes       
wandered strangely2 his gestures were   
extravagant1 and tears rolled in        
profusion down a face1 whose every      
feature bore the strongest marks of a   
decided devotee4 ,a shower which  came  
at the moment compelled us both to seek 
shelter within the walls of  the chapel1
 and we soon became social and entered  
into conversation4 ,the  ruined state of
 the building was his first and favorite
 topic3 he  lamented its destruction2 he
 mourned over the state of the times    
which  could countenance such impiety2  
and gradually1 while he turned over the 

leaves of the prayer-book in his hand1  
he was led to read aloud the  hundred   
and thirty-sixth psalm1 commenting upon 
every verse as he  proceeded1 and       
weeping more and more bitterly1 when he 
came to the part  commemorating the ruin
 of ,jerusalem1 which he applied1       
naturally enough1  to the captive state 
of ,france1 smarting as she then was    
under the iron  rod of ,prussia4 ,of the
 other allies1 including even the       
,russians1 he  owned that there was no  
complaint to be made3 they conduct      
themselves1  said he1 agreeably to the  
maxim of warfare1 which says            
'battez-vous  contre ceux qui vous      
opposent2 mais ayez piti des vaincus4'  
,not so the  ,prussians3 with them it is
 'frappez-1 frappez-l1 et quand ils     
entrent  dans quelque endroit1 ils      
disent1 il nous faut 1 il nous faut l1  
et  ils le prennent d'autorit4' ,cruel  
,babylon6--,yet1 even admitting all     
this1 we asked1 how can you reconcile   
with the spirit of christianity  the    

permission given to the ,jews by the    
psalmist1 to 'take up her little  ones  
and dash them against the stones4'--,ah6
 you misunderstand the  sense1 the psalm
 does not authorize cruelty2--mais1     
attendez6 ce n'est  pas ainsi3 ces      
pierres l sont ,saint ,pierre2 et       
heureux celui qui les  attachera  ,saint
 ,pierre2 qui montrera de l'attachement1
 de  l'intrpidit pour sa                
religion4--,then again1 looking at the  
chapel1  with tears and sobs1 how can we
 expect to prosper1 how to escape these 
miseries1 after having committed such   
enormities8--,his name1 he told  us1 was
 ,jacquemet1 and my companion kindly    
made a sketch of his face1  while ,i    
noted down his words4    ,this specimen 
will give you some idea of the          
extraordinary influence of  the ,roman  
catholic faith over the mind1 and of the
 curious perversions  under which it    
does not scruple to take refuge4        
,leaving for the present the dusty      
legends of superstition1 ,i describe    

with pleasure my recollections of the   
glorious prospect over which the  eye   
ranges from the hill of ,saint          
,catherine4--,the ,seine1 broad1        
winding1  and full of islands1 is the   
principal feature of the landscape4     
,this  river is distinguished by its    
sinuosity and the number of islets which
  it embraces1 and it retains this      
character even to ,paris4 ,its smooth   
tranquillity well contrasts with the    
life that is imparted to the scene1  by 
the shipping and the bustle of the      
quays4 ,the city itself1 with its       
verdant walks1 its spacious             
manufactories1 its strange and          
picturesque  buildings1 and the numerous
 spires and towers of its churches1 many
 of  them in ruins1 but not the less    
interesting on account of their decay1  
presents a foreground diversified with  
endless variety of form and  color4 ,the
 bridge of boats seems immediately at   
our feet2 the middle  distance is       
composed of a plain1 chiefly consisting 

of the richest  meadows1 interspersed   
copiously with country seats and        
villages  embosomed in wood2 and the    
horizon melts into an undulating line of
  remote hills4    ,footnotes3    #di   
,farin1 ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,i4 p4 #ig4
    #ej ,in a paper printed in the      
,transactions of the ,rouen ,academy for
  #ahah1 p4 #agg1 it appears that1 so   
late as #aghi1 a considerable portion   
of very old walls was discovered        
under-ground2 and that they consisted   
very much of ,roman bricks4 ,among them 
was also found a ,roman urn1 and  eighty
 or more medals of the same nation1 but 
none of them older than                 
,antoninus4--,from this it appears      
certain that ,rouen was a ,roman        
station1  though of its early history we
 have no distinct knowledge4    #ea     
,these are the ,tour du ,gascon1 ,tour  
du ,donjon1 and ,tour de la  ,pucelle4  
#eb ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,i4 p4 #cb4    
#ec ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,,iii4 p4 #cd4 
#ed ,it is also worth while to read the 

following details from  ,bourgueville1  
7,antiquits de ,caen1 p4 #cc7 whose     
testimony1 as that of  an eye-witness to
 much of what he relates1 is            
valuable3--,ils ont le  ,privilege      
,saint ,romain en la ville de ,rouen et 
,eglise ,cathdrale du  lieu1 au iour de 
l',ascension nostre ,seigneur de        
deliurer un prisonnier1  qui leur fut   
conced par le ,roy d',agobert en memoire
 d'un miracle que  ,dieu fist par saint 
,romain ,archeuesque du lieu1 d'auoir   
deliur les  habitans d'un ,dragon qui   
leur nuisoit en la forest de ,rouuray   
pres  ladite ville3 pour lequel vaincre 
il demanda  la justice deux  prisonniers
 dignes de mort1 l'un meurtrier et      
l'autre larron3 le larron  eut si grand 
frayeur qu'il s'enfuit1 et le meurtrier 
demeura auecque ce  saint homme qui     
vainquit ce ,serpent4 ,c'est pourquoy   
l'on dit encore en  commun prouerbe1 il 
est asseur comme vn meurtrier4 ,ce      
privilege de  deliurance ne doit estre  
accord aux larrons4--,saint ,ouen       

successeur de  ,s4 ,romain1 ,chancelier 
dudit ,roy d',agobert viron l'an #fee1  
impetra ce  priuilege3 dont ie n'en     
deduiray en plus oultre les causes1 pour
 ce  qu'elles sont assez communes et    
notoires1 et feray seulement cest       
aduertissement1 qu'il y a danger que    
messieurs les ,ecclesiastiques le       
perdent1 acause qu il s'y commet le plus
 souuent des abus1 par ce qu'il  se doit
 donner en cas pitoyable et non par     
authorit ou faueurs de  seigneurs1 comme
 aussi ne se doit estendre1 sinon  ceux 
qui sont  trouuez actuellement          
prisonniers sans fraude1 et non  ceux   
qui s'y  rendent le soir precedent comme
 estans asseurez d'obtenir ce priuilege1
  combien qu'ils ayent commis tous      
crimes execrables et indignes d'un tel  
pardon1 voire et que les                
,ecclesiastiques n'ayent eu loisir      
d'avoir veu  et bien examinez leur      
procez4 ,aussi ce beau priuilege est    
enfraint en ce  que ceux qui            
l'obtiennent doiuent assister par sept  

annees suiuantes aux  processions au    
tour de la ,fierte ,s4 ,romain1 portant 
vne torche ardante  selon qu'il leur est
 charg faire4 ,ce qui est de ceste heure
 trop  contemn3 et tel mespris leur     
pourroit estre reproch comme indignes et
  contempteurs d'vn tel pardon4 ,vn     
surnomm ,saugrence pour auoir abus  d'un
 tel priuilege fut quelque temps apres  
retrud et puni de la peine  de la rou   
pour auoir confesse des meurtres en     
agression pour sauuer  aucuns nobles ou 
nocibles qui les auoient commis4--,il   
s'est faict autres  fois et encore du   
temps de ma ieunesse de grands festins1 
danses1  mommeries ou mascarades audit  
iour de l',ascension1 tant par les      
feturiers de ceste confrairie saint     
,romain que autres ieunes hommes auec   
excessiues despences3 et s'appelloit    
lors tel iour ,rouuoysons1  cause  que  
les processions rouent de lieu en autre1
 et disoit l'on comme en  prouerbe1     
quand aucuns desbauchez declinoient de  
biens qu'ils auoient  fait ,rouuoysons1 

sauoir perdu leurs biens en trop        
uoluptueuses  despenses et mommeries sur
 chariots1 qui se faisoient de nuict par
 les  rus quelque saison d',est qu'il   
fust1 pour plus grandes magnificences4  
#ee ,see ,gallia ,christiana1 ,,xi4 p4  
#ab4    #ef ,a minute and very curious  
account of the whole of this ceremony1  
from the first claiming of the prisoner 
to his final deliverance1 is  given in  
,tuillepied's ,antiquits de ,rouen1 p4  
#gi4    #eg ,noel1 ,essais sur le       
,dpartement de la ,seine ,infrieure1    
,,ii4 p4  #bbh4    #eh ,antiquits       
,nationales1 ,,ii4 ,no4 #ba p4 #c    #ei
 ,millin1 ,antiquits ,nationales1 ,,ii4 
,no4 #bj4 p4 #c4    #fj ,noel1 ,essais  
sur le ,dpartement de la ,seine         
,infrieure1 ,,ii4 p4  #bji    #fa       
,farin1 ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,v4 p4     
#aac4    #fb ,essais sur le ,dpartement 
de la ,seine ,infrieure1 ,,ii4 p4 #baj4 
,,letter ,,ix4    ,,ancient             
,,ecclesiastical                        
,,architecture--,,churches ,,of ,,st4   

,,paul ,,and ,,st4                      
,,gervais--,,hospital ,,of ,,st4        
,,julien--,,churches ,,of ,,lery1       
,,pavilly1 ,,and  ,,yainville4          
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,we1 ,east   
,angles1 are accustomed to admire the   
remains of ,norman  architecture1 which1
 in our counties1 are perhaps more      
numerous and  singular than in any other
 tract in ,england4 ,the noble castle of
  ,blanchefleur still honors our        
provincial metropolis1 and although     
devouring eld hath impaired her charms  
and converted her into a very  dusky    
beauty1 the fretted walls still possess 
an air of antique  magnificence which we
 seek in vain when we contemplate the   
towers of  ,julius or the frowning      
dungeons of ,gundulph4 ,our cathedral   
retains the  pristine character which   
was given to the edifice1 when the      
,norman  prelate abandoned the seat of  
the ,saxon bishop1 and commanded the    
,saxon  clerks to migrate into the city 
protected or inclosed by the garrison of

  his cognate conquerors4 ,even our     
villages abound with these monuments4   
,the humbler1 though not less sacred    
structures in which the voice of  prayer
 and praise has been heard during so    
many generations1 equally  bear witness 
to ,norman art1 and1 ,i may say1 to     
,norman piety2 and when we  enter the   
sheltered porch1 we behold the fantastic
 sculpture and varied  foliage1         
encircling the arch which arose when our
 land was ruled by the  ,norman dynasty4
    ,comparatively speaking1 ,rouen is  
barren indeed of such relics4 ,its      
military antiquities are swept away2 and
 the only specimens of early            
ecclesiastical architecture are found in
 the churches of ,st4 ,paul and  ,st4   
,gervais1 both of them1 in themselves1  
unimportant buildings1 and  both so     
disfigured by subsequent alterations1   
that they might easily  escape the      
notice of any but an experienced eye4   
,of these1 the first is  situated by the
 side of the road to ,paris1 under ,mont

 ,ste4 ,catherine1  yet1 still upon an  
eminence1 beneath which are some mineral
 springs1  that were long famous for    
their medicinal qualities1 but have of  
late  years been abandoned1 and the     
spa-drinkers now resort to others in the
  quarter of the town called de la      
,marquerie4 ,both the one and the  other
 are highly ferruginous1 but the latter 
most strongly impregnated  with iron4   
,the chancel is the only ancient part of
 the present church of ,st4  ,paul's1   
and even this must be comparatively     
modern1 if any confidence  may be placed
 in the current tradition1 that the     
building1 in its  original state1 was a 
temple of ,adonis or of ,venus1 to both 
which  divinities the early inhabitants 
of ,rouen are reported to have paid     
peculiar homage4 ,they were worshipped  
in vice and impurity#fc2 nor were  the  
votaries deterred by the evil spirits   
who haunted the immediate  vicinity of  
the temple1 and who gave rise to so     
fetid and infectious a  vapor1 that it  

often proved fatal6 ,this very remark   
seems to indicate  the scite of the     
church of ,st4 ,paul1 with its          
neighboring sulphureous  waters4 ,st4   
,romain demolished the temple1 and      
dispersed the sinners4  ,farin1 in his  
,history of ,rouen#fd1 says1 that the   
church was  repeatedly destroyed and    
rebuilt by the ,norman ,dukes1 to some  
of whom1  the chancel1 which is now     
standing1 probably owes its existence4  
,the  nave is evidently of much more    
modern construction3 it is thrice the   
width of the other part1 from which it  
is separated by a circular arch4  ,the  
eastern extremity differs from that of  
any other church ,i ever saw  in        
,normandy or in ,england3 it ends in    
three circular compartments1 the        
central considerably the largest and    
most prominent1 and divided from  the   
others1 which serve as aisles1 by double
 arches1 a larger and  smaller being    
united together4 ,this triple circular  
ending is1 however1  only observable    

without2 for1 in the interior1 the      
southern part has  been separated and   
used as a sacristy2 the northern is a   
lumber-room4 ,in  the latter division1  
,m4 le ,prevost desired us to notice a  
piece of  sculpture1 so covered with    
dirt and dust that it could scarcely be 
seen1  but evidently of ,roman          
workmanship1 and1 probably1 of the      
fourth  century1 if we may judge from   
its resemblance to some ornaments#fe    
upon  the pedestal of the obelisk raised
 by ,theodosius1 in the ,hippodrome of  
,constantinople4 ,our friend's          
conjecture is1 that it had originally   
served for an altar3 perhaps it might1  
with equal probability1 be  supposed to 
have been a tomb4--,the corbels on the  
exterior of this  building are strange  
and fanciful4    ,illustration3         
,sculpture1 supposed ,roman1 in the     
,church of ,st4 ,paul1 at ,rouen        
,st4 ,gervais also stands without the   
walls of ,rouen2 but at the opposite    
end of the town1 upon a hill adjoining  

the ,roman road to ,lillebonne1 and     
near the ,mont aux ,malades1 a place so 
called1 as having been selected in  the 
eleventh century1 on account of the     
salubrity of its air1 for the  situation
 of a monastery1 destined for the       
reception of lepers4 ,upon  this        
eminence1 the ,norman ,dukes had        
likewise originally a palace2 and1  it  
was to this1 that ,william the          
,conqueror caused himself to be         
conveyed1 when attacked with his mortal 
illness1 after having wantonly  reduced 
the town of ,mantes to ashes4 ,here1    
too1 this mighty monarch  breathed his  
last1 and left a sad warning to future  
conquerors1 deserted  by his friends and
 physicians the moment he was no more2  
while his  menials plundered his        
property1 and his body lay naked and    
neglected in  the hall#ff4    ,the ducal
 palace1 and the monastic buildings of  
the priory1 once  connected with it1 are
 now completely destroyed4 ,fortunately1
 however1  the church still remains1    

though parochial and in poverty4 ,it    
preserves  some portions of the original
 structure1 more interesting from their 
features than their extent4 ,the        
exterior of the apsis is very curious3  
it is obtusely angular1 and faced at the
 corners with large rude  columns1 of   
whose capitals some are ,doric or       
,corinthian1 others as wild  as the     
fancies of the ,norman lords of the     
country4 ,none reach so high as  the    
cornice of the roof1 it having been the 
intention of the original  architect1   
that a portion of work should intervene 
between the summit of  the capitals and 
this member4 ,a capital to the north is 
remarkable for  the eagles carved upon  
it1 as if with some allusion to ,roman  
power4 ,but  the most singular part of  
this church is the crypt under the      
apsis1 a  room about thirty feet long by
 fourteen wide1 and sixteen high1 of    
extreme simplicity1 and remote          
antiquity4 ,round it runs a plain stone 
bench2 and it is divided into two       

unequal parts by a circular arch1       
devoid of columns or of any ornament    
whatever1 but disclosing1 in the        
composition of its piers1 ,roman bricks 
and other dbris1 some of them  rudely   
sculptured4 ,here1 according to         
,ordericus ,vitalis#fg1 was  interred   
the body of ,st4 ,mellonus1 the first   
,archbishop of ,rouen1 and  one of the  
apostles of ,neustria2 and here1 his    
tomb1 and that of his  successor1       
,avitien1 are shewn to this day1 in     
plain niches1 on opposite  sides of the 
wall4 ,st4 ,mello's remains however1    
were not suffered to  rest in peace2    
for1 about five hundred and seventy     
years after his  death1 which happened  
in the year #cad1 they were removed to  
the castle  of ,pontoise1 lest the      
canonized corpse should be violated by  
the heathen  ,normans4 ,in the diocese  
of ,rouen ,st4 ,mello is honored with   
particular  veneration2 and the history 
of the prelates of the see contains many
  curious1 and not unedifying stories of

 the miracles he performed4 ,his  feast1
 together with that of ,st4 ,nicasius1  
his companion1 is celebrated  on the    
second of ,october2 and their labors are
 commemorated with a hymn  appointed for
 their festival3--        ,prim vos     
canimus gentis apostolos1       ,per    
quos relligio tradita patribus2         
,errorisque jugo libera ,neustria       
,,christo sub duce militat4             
,facti sponte suis finibus exules       
,hc de ,romuleis sedibus advolant2      
,merces est operis1 si nova consecrent  
,vero pectora ,numini4        ,qui se   
pro populis devovet hostiam             
,mellonus tacit se nece conficit2       
,mactatus celeri morte ,nicasius        
,christum sanguine prdicat4    ,heretics
 as we are1 we ought not to refrain from
 respecting the zeal  even of a saint of
 the ,catholic calendar1 when thus      
exerted4 ,besides  which1 he has another
 claim upon our attention3 our own      
island gave him  birth1 and he appeared 
at ,rome as the bearer of the annual    

tribute of  the ,britons1 at the very   
time when he was converted to           
,christianity1  whose light he had      
afterwards the glory of diffusing over  
,neustria4 ,the  existence of these     
tombs and the antiquity of the crypt1   
recorded as it  is by history and       
confirmed by the style of its           
architecture1 have given  currency to   
the tradition1 which points it out as   
the only temple where  the primitive    
,christians of ,neustria dared to       
assemble for the  performance of divine 
service4 ,many stone coffins have also  
been  discovered in the vicinity of the 
church4 ,these sarcophagi seem to       
confirm the general tradition3 they are 
of the simplest form1 and  apparently as
 ancient as the crypt2 and they were so 
placed in the  ground that the heads of 
the corpses were turned to the east1 a  
position  denoting that the dead        
received ,christian burial4             
,illustration3 ,circular ,tower1        
attached to the ,church of ,st4 ,ouen1  

at ,rouen    ,another opportunity will  
be afforded me of speaking of the church
 of ,st4  ,ouen2 but1 as a singular     
relic of ,norman architecture1 ,i must  
here  notice the round tower on the     
south side of the choir1 probably part  
of  the original edifice1 finished by   
the ,abbot1 ,william ,balot1 and        
dedicated by the ,archbishop ,goffroi1  
in #aabf4 ,it consists of two  stories1 
divided by a billetted moulding4        
,respecting its use it would  not now be
 easy to offer a probable conjecture3   
the history of the  abbey1 indeed1      
mentions it under the title of la       
,chambre des ,clercs1  and supposes that
 it was formerly a chapel#fh2 but its   
shape and size  do not seem to confirm  
that opinion4    ,the chapel of the     
suppressed lazar-house of ,st4 ,julien1 
situated about  three miles from ,rouen1
 on the opposite side of the ,seine1 is 
more  perfect than either ,st4 ,paul or 
,st4 ,gervais1 and1 consequently1 more  
valuable to the architect4 ,this        

building1 without spire or tower1 and   
divided into three parts of unequal     
length and height1 the nave1 the  choir1
 and the circular apsis1 externally     
resembles one of the meanest  of our    
parish-churches1 such as a stranger1    
judging only from the  exterior1 would  
be almost equally likely to consider as 
a place of  worship1 or as a barn4 ,it  
is1 however1 if ,i am not mistaken1 one 
of the  purest and most perfect         
specimens of the ,norman ra4 ,i know of 
no  building in ,england1 which         
resembles it so nearly as the chancel of
  ,hales ,church1 in ,norfolk2 but the  
latter has been exposed to material     
alterations1 while the chapel of which  
,i am speaking is externally quite      
regular in its design1 being divided    
throughout its whole length into  small 
compartments1 by a row of shallow       
buttresses rising from the  ground to   
the eaves of the roof1 without any      
partition into splays4  ,those on the   
south side are still in their primval   

state2 but a  buttress of a subsequent1 
though not recent1 date1 has been built 
up  against almost every one of the     
original buttresses on the north side1  
by way of support to the edifice4 ,each 
division contains a single narrow       
circular-headed window3 beneath these is
 a plain moulding1 continued            
uninterruptedly over the buttresses as  
well as the wall1 thus proving  both to 
be coeval2 another plain moulding runs  
nearly on a level with  the tops of the 
windows1 and takes the same circular    
form2 but it is  confined to the spaces 
between the buttresses4 ,there are no   
others4 ,the  entrance was by           
circular-headed doors at the west end   
and south side1  both of them very      
plain2 but particularly the latter4 ,the
 few ornaments  of the western are as   
perfect and as sharp as if the whole    
were the work  of yesterday4 ,this part 
of the church has1 however1 been exposed
 to  considerable injury1 owing to its  
having joined the conventual  buildings1

 which were destroyed at the revolution4
 ,the inside is1 like  the exterior1    
almost perfect1 but it is very much more
 rich1 uniting to  the common ornaments 
of ,norman architecture1 capitals1 in   
some  instances1 of classical beauty4   
,the ceiling is covered with paintings  
of  scriptural subjects1 which still    
remain1 notwithstanding that the        
building is now desecrated1 and used as 
a woodhouse by the neighboring  farmer4 
,the date of the erection of the chapel 
is well ascertained#fi4 ,the  hospital  
was founded in #aahc1 by ,henry         
,plantagenet1 as a priory for the       
reception of unmarried ladies of noble  
blood1 who were destined for a          
religious life1 and had the misfortune  
to be afflicted with leprosy4 ,one  of  
their appellations was filles meselles1 
in which latter word1 you  will         
immediately recognize the origin of our 
term for the disease still  prevalent   
among us1 the measles4 ,johnson         
strangely derives this word  from       

morbilli2 but the true northern roots   
have been given by ,mr4  ,todd1 in his  
most valuable republication of our      
national dictionary2 a  work which now  
deserves to be named after the editor1  
rather than the  original compiler4 ,it 
may also be added1 that the word was in 
common use  in the old ,norman ,french1 
and was plainly intended to designate a 
slight  degree of scurvy4    ,to pursue 
this subject a few steps farther1       
,jamieson1 who is as  excellent in      
points of etymology as ,johnson is      
deficient1 quotes1 in his  ,scottish    
,dictionary1 an instance where the      
identical expression1  meselle-houses1  
is used in old ,english2       444to    
meselle-houses of that same rond1       
,thre thousand mark unto ther spense he 
fond4                                   
,r4 ,,brunne1 p4 #acf4    ,the ,norfolk 
farmers and dairy-maids tell us to this 
day of measly  pork3 in ,scotch1 a leper
 is called a mesel2 and1 among the      
,swedes1  the word for measles is one   

nearly similar in sound1 mss-ling4 ,the 
,french academy1 however1 have refused  
to admit meselle to the honor of  a     
place in their language1 because it was 
obsolete or vulgar in the time  of      
,louis ,x,i,i,ith4 ,the word is         
expressive1 and no better one has       
supplied  its place2 and we may suppose 
that it was introduced by the ,norman   
conquerors1 and that it properly belongs
 to the ,gothic tongues1 in the  whole  
of which the root is to be found more or
 less modified4 ,instances  of this     
kind1 and they are many1 serve as       
additional proofs1 if proofs  indeed    
were needed1 of the common origin of the
 ,neustrian ,normans1 of  the ,lowland  
,scots1 and of the ,saxon and ,belgian  
tribes1 who peopled our  eastern shores 
of ,england4    ,the priory continued to
 be appropriated to its original purpose
 till  #acff1 when ,charles ,vth united 
it to the hospital1 called the          
,magdalen1  at ,rouen1 upon condition   
that a mass should be celebrated there  

daily  for the repose of his soul4 ,in  
the year #afjj1 on the destruction of   
the  abbey upon ,mont ,ste4 ,catherine1 
the monks of that establishment were    
allowed to fix themselves at ,st4       
,julien2 but they resigned it1 after a  
period of sixty-seven years1 to the     
,carthusians of ,gaillon1 who1          
incorporating themselves with their     
brethren of the same order at ,rouen1   
formed a very opulent community4 ,the   
monastery1 previously occupied by  the  
latter1 was known by the poetical       
appellation of la ,rose de ,notre       
,dame3 indeed1 it is thus termed in the 
charter of its foundation1 dated  #achd4
 ,but the situation was unhealthy1 and  
the new comers had therefore  little    
difficulty in persuading its occupants  
to remove to the convent  of ,st4       
,julien1 which they inhabited conjointly
 till the revolution4 ,at a  very short 
period before that event1 they had      
rebuilt the whole of the  priory with   
such splendor1 that it was one of the   

most magnificent in  the neighborhood4  
,but the edifice1 which had then been   
scarcely raised1  was soon afterwards   
levelled with the ground4 ,the          
foundations alone  attest the former    
extent of the buildings2 and the park1  
now in a state  of utter neglect1 their 
original importance4    ,rouen1 as ,i   
have observed1 is scantily ornamented   
with remains of real  ,norman           
architecture2 for1 even at the risk of a
 bull1 we must deny that  title to the  
,norman edifices of the pointed style4  
,its vicinity1  however1 furnishes a    
greater number of specimens1 among which
 the  churched of ,lry1 of ,pavilly1 and
 of ,yainville1 are all of them         
deserving of a visit from the diligent  
antiquary4    ,lry is a village         
adjoining ,pont-de-l',arche3 its church 
is cruciform1  having in the centre a   
low1 massy1 square tower1 surmounted by 
a modern  spire4 ,a row of plain ,norman
 arches1 intended only for ornament1    
runs  round the tower near the base1 and

 over them on each side is a single     
round-headed window4 ,all the other     
windows of the building are of the  same
 construction1 and this renders it      
probable that the east end1 in  which   
there is also one of these windows1 is  
really coeval with the rest  of the     
church2 though1 contrary to the usual   
plan of the ,norman  churches1 it is    
terminated by a straight wall instead of
 a semi-circular  apsis4 ,the west front
 contains a rich ,norman door-way1      
surmounted by  three windows of the same
 style1 adjoining each other1 with a    
triple row  of the chevron-ornament     
above them4 ,the interior wears the     
appearance of  remote antiquity3 the    
arches are without mouldings1 the       
pillars without  bases1 and the capitals
 are destitute of all ornamental        
sculpture4 ,in  fact1 these portions are
 nothing but rounded piers2 and so      
obviously was  mere solid strength the  
aim of the architect1 that their        
diameter is  fully equal to two-thirds  

of their height4 ,a double row of       
pillars and  arches separates the nave  
into three parts1 of unequal width2 and 
another arch of greater span1 though    
equally plain1 divides it from the      
chancel4 ,in ,st4 ,julien1 we observe a 
most simple exterior1 accompanied  by an
 interior of comparatively an ornamented
 style3 here the case is  exactly the   
reverse2 but in neither instance does   
there appear any  reason to doubt that  
the whole of the building is coeval4 ,we
 shall be  driven1 therefore1 to admit1 
that any inferences respecting the ra of
  architecture drawn merely from the    
comparative richness of the style1  must
 be considered of little weight1 and    
that1 even in those days1 a  great deal 
depended upon the fancy of the patron or
 architect4 ,of the  real time of the   
erection of the church at ,lry1 there is
 no certain  knowledge4 ,topographers1  
however minute in other matters1 seem in
  general to have considered it beneath 
their dignity to record the dates  of   

parish-churches2 though1 as connected   
with the history of the arts1  such     
information is exceedingly valuable4    
,lauglois1 who has given a  figure of   
the western front of this at ,lry1      
refers it without any  hesitation to the
 time of the ,carlovingian dynasty4 ,but
 this opinion is  merely grounded on the
 resemblance of some of its capitals to 
those of  the pillars in the crypt at   
,st4 ,denis2 the best judges doubt      
whether  there is a single architectural
 line in that crypt1 which can fairly be
  referred to the reign of ,charlemagne4
 ,hence such a proof is entitled to     
little attention2 and ,on studying the  
style of the whole1 and its  conformity 
with the more magnificent front of ,st4 
,georges de  ,bocherville1 it would seem
 most reasonable to regard them both as 
of  nearly the same ra1 the time of the 
,norman ,conquest4 ,we may through  them
 be enabled to fix the date to a        
specimen of ancient architecture in  our
 own country1 more splendid than these1 

the ,church of ,castle ,rising1  whose  
west front is so much on the same plan1 
that it can scarcely have  been erected 
at a very different period4    ,pavilly 
has considerably more to recommend it1  
as the magni nominis  umbra than either 
of the others2 it having been the seat  
of an abbey  founded about the year     
#ffh1 and named after ,saint            
,austreberte1 who first  presided over  
it4 ,here1 too1 we have the advantage of
 being able to  ascertain with greater  
precision the date of the building1     
which1 in the  archives of the          
,chartreux at ,rouen#gj1 is stated to   
have been  constructed about the        
conclusion of the eleventh century4 ,the
 remains of  the monastery are not      
considerable3 they consist of little    
more than a  ruined wall1 containing    
three circular arches1 evidently very   
ancient  from their simplicity and the  
style of their masonry1 and some pillars
  with capitals differing in ornament   
from any others ,i recollect1 but       

imitations of the ,grecian1 or rather   
attempts to improve upon it4 ,the       
inside of the parish-church is more     
interesting than the ruins of the       
abbey4 ,it is characterised1 as you will
 observe in the annexed sketch1  by     
massy square piers1 to each side of     
which are attached several small        
clustered columns1 intended merely for  
ornament4 ,one of them is fluted1  the  
work1 probably1 of some subsequent time2
 and another1 on the same  pier1 is     
truncated1 to afford a pedestal for the 
statue of a saint4 ,the  capitals are   
without sculpture4    ,illustration3    
,interior of the ,church at ,pavilly    
,the church at ,yainville differs       
materially from either of the others3   
its square low central tower is of far  
greater base than that of ,lry3  the    
transept parts of the cross have been   
demolished2 and1 beyond the  tower1 to  
the east1 is only an addition that looks
 more like an apsis  than a choir1 a    
small semi-circular building with a roof

 of a peculiarly  high pitch1 like those
 of the stone-roofed chapels in         
,ireland1 which1 ,i  trust1 ,i shall be 
able hereafter to convince you were     
undoubtedly of  ,norman origin4 ,but the
 most curious feature in this building  
is1 that  one of the buttresses is      
pierced with a narrow lancet window2 a  
decisive  proof1 that the ,normans      
regarded their buttresses as constituent
 parts  of the edifice at its original  
construction1 and that they did not add 
them at a subsequent time1 or design    
them to afford support1 in the  event of
 any unexpected failure of strength4    
,indeed1 what are usually  called       
,norman buttresses1 such as we find at  
,yainville1 and at the  lazar-house at  
,st4 ,julien1 have so very small a      
projection1 that they  seem much more   
designed to add ornament or variety than
 for any useful  purpose4--,yainville is
 a parish adjoining ,jumieges1 and was  
formerly  dependent upon the celebrated 
abbey there1 which will furnish ample   

materials for a future letter4          
,footnotes3    #fc ,taillepied1         
,antiquits de ,rouen1 p4 #gg4    #fd    
,vol4 ,,ii4 part ,v4 p4 #h4    #fe      
,seroux d',agincourt1 ,historie de la   
,dcadence de l',art2 plate #aj1         
,sculpture1 fig4 #d-g4    #ff ,du       
,moulin1 ,histoire ,gnrale de           
,normandie1 p4 #bcf4    #fg ,duchesne1  
,scriptores ,normanni1 p4 #eeh4    #fh  
,histoire de l',abbaye de ,st4 ,ouen1 p4
 #ahh4    #fi ,farin1 ,histoire de      
,rouen1 ,v4 p4 #aba    #gj ,description 
de la ,haute ,normandie1 ,,ii4 p4 #bfh4 
,,letter ,x4    ,,early ,,pointed       
,,architecture--,,cathedral--,,episcopal
 ,,palace4      7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47 
,in passing from the true ,norman       
architecture1 characterised by the      
circular arch1 round-headed doors and   
windows1 massive pillars with a  kind of
 regular base and capital1 and thick    
walls without any very  prominent       
buttresses1#ga to those edifices which  
display the pointed  style1 ,i shall    

enter into a more extensive field1 and  
one where the  difficulty no longer lies
 in discovering1 but in selecting       
objects for  observation and            
description4    ,the style which an     
ingenious author of our own country has 
designated as  early ,english#gb1 is by 
no means uncommon in ,normandy4 ,in both
  countries1 the circular style became  
modified into ,gothic1 by the same      
gradations2 though1 in ,normandy1 each  
gradation took place at an earlier      
period than amongst us4 ,the style in   
question forms the connecting link      
between edifices of the highest         
antiquity1 and those of the richest     
pointed architecture2 combined in some  
instances principally with the          
peculiarities of the former1 in others  
with the character of the latter3       
generally speaking1 it assimilates      
itself to both4 ,the simplicity of the  
principal lines betray its analogy to   
its predecessors2 whilst the form  of   
the arch equally displays the approach  

of greater beauty and  perfection4      
,of this ra1 the cathedral#gc of ,rouen 
is unquestionably the most  interesting 
building2 and it is so spacious1 so     
grand1 so noble1 so  elegant1 so rich1  
and so varied1 that1 as the ,italians   
say of ,raphael1  ammirar non si pu che 
non s'onori4--,by an exordium like this1
 ,i am  aware that an expectation will  
be raised1 which it will be difficult   
for  the powers of description to       
gratify2 but ,i have still felt that it 
was  due to the edifice1 to speak of it 
as ,i am sure it deserves1 and rather   
to subject myself to the charge of want 
of ability in describing1 than  of want 
of feeling in the appreciation of       
excellence4    ,the west front opens    
upon a spacious parvis1 to which it     
exposes a  width of one hundred and     
seventy feet1 consisting of a centre1   
flanked  by two towers of very          
dissimilar form and architecture1 though
 of nearly  equal height4 ,between these
 is seen the spire1 which rises from the

  intersection of the cross1 and which1 
from this point of view1 appears  to    
pierce the clouds2 and these masses so  
combine themselves together1  that the  
entire edifice assumes a pyramidical    
outline4 ,the ,french1 who1  without any
 real affection for ancient             
architecture1 are often  extravagant in 
their praises1 regard this spire as a   
chef d'oeuvre de  hardiesse1 d'lgance1  
et de lgret4 ,bold and light it         
certainly is2  but we must pause before 
we consider it as elegant3 the lower    
part is a  combination of very clumsy   
,roman pediments and columns2 and1 as it
 is  constructed of wood1 the material  
conveys an idea of poverty and          
comparative meanness4--,it is commonly  
said in ,france1 that the portal of     
,rheims1 joined to the nave of ,amiens1 
the choir of ,beauvais1 and the  tower  
of ,chartres1 would make a perfect      
church2 nor is it to be denied  that    
each of these several cathedrals        
surpasses ,rouen in its peculiar        

excellence2 but each is also defective  
in other respects2 so that ,rouen1      
considered as a whole1 is perhaps equal1
 if not superior1 to any4 ,the  front is
 singularly impressive3 it is           
characterised by airy  magnificence4    
,open screens of the most elegant       
tracery1 and filled1 like  the pannels  
to which they correspond1 with imagery1 
range along the  summit4 ,the blue sky  
shines through the stone filagree1 which
 appears to  be interwoven like a       
slender web2 but1 when you ascend the   
roof1 you  find that it is composed of  
massy limbs of stone1 of which the edge 
alone is seen by the observer below4    
,this free tracery is peculiar to  the  
pointed architecture of the continent2  
and ,i cannot recollect any  ,english   
building which possesses it4 ,the       
basement story is occupied by  three    
wide door-ways1 deep in retiring        
mouldings and pillars1 and filled  with 
figures of saints and martyrs1 tier     
behind tier1 in endless  perspective4   

,the central portal1 by far the largest1
 projects like a  porch beyond the      
others1 and is surmounted by a gorgeous 
pyramidal  canopy of open stone-work1 in
 whose centre is a great dial1 the top  
of  which partly conceals the rose      
window behind4 ,this portal1 together   
with  the niches above on either side1  
all equally crowded with bishops1       
apostles1 and saints1 was erected at the
 expence of the cardinal1  ,georges     
d',amboise1 by whom the first stone was 
laid1 in #aejigd4    ,the lateral       
door-ways are of a different style of   
architecture1 and1  though obtusely     
pointed1 are supposed to be of the      
eleventh century3 a  plain and almost   
,roman circular arch surmounts the      
southern one4 ,over  each of the        
entrances is a curious bas-relief3 in   
the centre is  displayed the            
genealogical tree of ,christ2 the       
southern contains the  ,virgin ,mary    
surrounded by a number of saints2 the   
northern one1 the most  remarkable#ge of

 all1 affords a representation of the   
feast given by  ,herod1 which ended in  
the martyrdom of the ,baptist4 ,salom1  
daughter of  ,herodias1 plays1 as she   
ought to do1 the principal character4   
,the group  is of good sculpture1 and   
curiously illustrative of the costumes  
and  manners of the times4 ,salom is    
seen dancing in an attitude1 which      
perchance was often assumed by the      
tombesteres of the elder day2 and  her  
position affords a graphical comment    
upon the ,anglo-,saxon version of  the  
text1 in which it is said that she      
tumbled1 before ,king ,herod4  ,the     
bands or pilasters 7if we may so call   
them7 which ornament the jambs  of the  
door-ways1 are crowned with graceful    
foliage in a very pure  style2 and the  
pedestals of the lateral pillars are    
boldly underworked4    ,on the northern 
side of the cathedral is situated the   
cloister-court4  ,only a few arches of  
the cloister now remain2 and it appears1
 at least  on the eastern side1 to have 

consisted of a double aisle4 ,here we   
view  the most ancient portion of the   
tower of ,saint ,romain4--,there is a   
peculiarity in the position of the      
towers of this cathedral1 which ,i  have
 not observed elsewhere4 ,they flank the
 body of the church1 so as to  leave    
three sides free2 and hence the spread  
taken by the front of the  edifice1 when
 the breadth of the towers is added to  
the breadth of the  nave and aisles4    
,the circular windows of the tower which
 look in the  court1 are perhaps to be  
referred to the eleventh century2 and a 
smaller  tower affixed against the south
 side1 containing a stair-case and      
covered by a lofty pyramidical stone    
roof1 composed of flags cut in the      
shape of shingles1 may also be of the   
same ra4 ,the others1 of the more       
ancient windows1 are in the early       
pointed style2 and the portion from  the
 gallery upwards is comparatively       
modern2 having been added in #adgg4     
,the roof1 ,i suppose1 is of the        

sixteenth century4    ,the southern     
tower is a fine specimen of the pointed 
architecture in its  greatest state of  
luxuriant perfection1 enriched on every 
side with  pinnacles and statues4 ,it   
terminates in a beautiful octagonal     
crown of  open stone-work4--,legendary  
tales are connected with both the       
towers3  the oldest borrows its name    
from ,st4 ,romain1 by whom chroniclers  
tell us  that it was built2 the other is
 called the ,tour de ,beurre1 from a    
tradition1 that the chief part of the   
money required for its erection  was    
derived from offerings given by the     
pious or the dainty1 as the  purchase   
for an indulgence granted by ,pope      
,innocent ,v,i,i,ith1 who1 for a        
reasonable consideration1 allowed the   
contributors to feed upon butter  and   
milk during ,lent1 instead of confining 
themselves1 as before1 to oil  and      
lard4--,the archbishop1 ,georges        
d',amboise1 consecrated this tower1 of  
which the foundation was laid in #adhe2 

and he had the satisfaction of  living  
to see it finished1 in #aejg1 after     
twenty-two years had been  employed in  
the building4    ,the cardinal was so   
truly delighted by the beauty of the    
structure1  which had arisen under his  
auspices1 that he determined to grace it
 with  the largest bell in ,france2 and 
such was afterwards cast at his         
expence4--,even ,tom of ,lincoln could  
scarcely compete with ,georges          
d',amboise2 for thus the bell was duly  
christened4 ,it weighed  thirty-three   
thousand pounds2 its diameter at the    
base was thirty feet2  its height was   
ten feet2 and thirty stout and sweating 
bell-ringers  could hardly put it into  
swing4--,such was the importance        
attached to the  undertaking1 that it   
was thought worthy of a religious       
ceremony4 ,at the  appointed hour for   
casting the bell1 the clergy paraded in 
full  procession round the church1 to   
implore the blessing of heaven upon the 
work2 and1 when the signal was given    

that the glowing metal had filled  the  
enormous mould1 ,te ,deum resounded as  
with one voice2 the organ  pealed1 the  
trombones and clarions sounded1 and all 
the other bells in  the cathedral       
joined1 as loudly and as sweetly as they
 could1 in  announcing the birth of     
their prouder brother4--,the remainder  
of the  story is of a different         
complexion3--,the founder1 ,jean le     
,machon1 of  ,chartres1 died from excess
 of joy1 and was buried in the nave of  
the  cathedral1 where ,pommeraye#gf     
tells us the tomb existed in his time2  
with a bell engraved upon it1 and the   
following epitaph3--                    
,cy-dessous gist ,jean le ,machon       
,de ,chartres homme de faon             
,lequel fondit ,georges d',amboise      
,qui trente six mille livres poise      
,mil cinq cens un jour d',aoust deuxime 
,puis mourut le vingt et unime4    ,nor 
was this the only misfortune2 for1 after
 all1 this great bell  proved1 like a   
great book1 a great nuisance3 the sound 

it uttered was  scarcely audible2 and1  
at last1 in an attempt to render it     
vocal1 upon a  visit paid by ,louis     
,x,v,ith to ,rouen in #aghf1 it was     
cracked#gg4 ,it  continued1 however1 to 
hang1 a gaping-stock to children and    
strangers1  till the revolution1 in     
#agic1 caused it to be returned to the  
furnace1  whence it re-issued in the    
shape of cannon and medals1 the latter  
commemorating the pristine state of the 
metal with the humiliating  legend1     
monument de vanit dtruit pour           
l'utilit#gh4    ,some of the clerestory 
windows on the northern side of the nave
 are  circular3 the tracery which fills 
them1 and the mouldings which surround  
them1 belong to the pointed style2 the  
arches may therefore have been  the     
production of an earlier architect4 ,the
 windows of the nave are  crowned by    
pediments1 each terminating1 not with a 
pinnacle1 but with a  small statue4 ,the
 pediments over the windows of the choir
 are larger  and bolder1 and perforated 

as they rise above the parapet2 the     
members  of the mouldings are full1 and 
produce a fine effect4    ,the northern 
transept is approached through a gloomy 
court1 once  occupied by the shops of   
the transcribers and caligraphists1 the 
libraires of ancient times1 and from    
them it has derived its name4 ,the      
court is entered beneath a gate-way of  
beautiful and singular  architecture1   
composed of two lofty pointed arches of 
equal height1  crowned by a row of      
smaller arcades4 ,on each side are the  
walls of the  archiepiscopal palace1    
dusky and shattered1 and desolate2 and  
the vista  terminates by the lofty      
,portal of ,st4 ,romain2 for it is thus 
the great  portal of the transept is    
denominated4 ,the oaken valves are bound
 with  ponderous hinges and bars of     
wrought iron1 of coeval workmanship4    
,the  bars are ornamented with embossed 
heads1 which have been hammered out of  
the solid metal4 ,the statues which     
stood on each side of the arch-way  have

 been demolished2 but the pedestals     
remain4 ,these1 as well as other  parts 
of the portal1 are covered with         
sculptured compartments1 or  medallions1
 in high preservation1 and of the most  
singular character4  ,they exhibit an   
endless variety of fanciful monsters and
 animals1 of  every shape and form1     
mermaids1 tritons1 harpies1 woodmen1    
satyrs1 and  all the fabulous zoology of
 ancient geography and romance2 and each
  spandril of each quatrefoil contains a
 lizard1 a serpent1 or some other  worm 
or reptile4 ,they have all the oddity1  
all the whim1 and all the  horror of the
 pencil of ,breughel4 ,human groups and 
figures are  interspersed1 some         
scriptural1 historical1 or legendary2   
others mystical  and allegorical4       
,engravings from these medallions would 
form a volume  of uncommon interest4    
,two lofty towers ornament the transept1
 such as  are usually seen only at the  
western front of a cathedral4 ,the upper
  story of each is perforated by a      

gigantic window1 divided by a single    
mullion1 or central pillar1 not         
exceeding one foot in circumference1 and
  nearly sixty feet in height4 ,these   
windows are entirely open1 and the      
architect never intended that they      
should be glazed4 ,an extraordinary     
play of light and shade results from    
this construction4 ,the rose window  in 
the centre of the transept is           
magnificent3 from within1 the painted   
glass produces the effect of a          
kaleidoscope4--,the pediment or gable of
  this transept was materially injured  
by a storm1 in #afch1 one hundred  and  
thirty years after it was completed2 and
 the damage was never  restored4    ,the
 southern transept bears a near         
resemblance to that which ,i have       
already described2 but it was originally
 richer in its ornaments1 and it  still 
preserves some of its statues4 ,here the
 medallions relate chiefly  to          
scripture-history2 but the sculpture is 
greatly corroded by the  weather1 and   

the more delicate parts are nearly      
obliterated2 besides  which1 as well    
here1 as at the other entrances1 the    
,calvinists1 in #aefb1  and1 more       
recently1 the ,revolutionists1 have been
 most mischievously  destructive1       
mutilating and decapitating without     
mercy4 ,the spirit1  indeed1 of the     
,french reformers1 bore a near          
resemblance to the  proceedings of ,john
 ,knox and his brethren3 the people     
embraced the new  doctrine with         
turbulent violence4 ,there was in it    
nothing moderate1  nothing gradual3 it  
was not the regular flow of public      
opinion1  undermining abuses1 and       
bringing them slowly to their fall2 but 
it was  the thunderbolt1 which--        
,in sua templa furit1 nullque exire     
vetante       ,materi1 magnamque cadens 
magnamque revertens       ,dat stragem  
lat sparsosque recolligit ignes4        
,among the legends recorded on the      
southern portal1 or the ,portail de la  
,calende1 is that of the corn-merchant2 

the confiscation of whose  property     
paid1 as the chronicles tell us1 for the
 erection of this  beautiful entrance4  
,he himself1 if we may believe the same 
authority1  was hanged in the street    
opposite to it1 in consequence of having
 been  detected in the use of false     
measures4    ,the original              
,lady-,chapel1 at the east end of the   
cathedral1 was taken  down in #acjb4    
,the present1 which is considerably more
 spacious1 is  chiefly of a date        
immediately subsequent4 ,part1 however1 
was built in  #adcj1 when new and larger
 windows were inserted throughout the   
church2  whilst other parts were not    
finished till #aech1 at which time the  
,cardinal ,georges d',amboise restored  
the roof of the choir1 which had  been  
injured in #aead1 by the destruction of 
the spire4    ,the square central tower1
 which is low and comparatively plain1  
is the  work of the year #abjj4 ,it is  
itself more ancient than would be       
supposed  from the character of its     

architecture2 but it occupies the place 
of one  of still greater antiquity1     
which was materially damaged in #aaag1  
when  the original spire of the church  
was struck by lightning4 ,this first    
spire was of stone1 but was replaced by 
another of wood1 which1 as ,i  have just
 mentioned1 was also destroyed at the   
beginning of the  sixteenth century4 ,a 
fire1 arising from the negligence of    
plumbers  employed to repair the        
lead-work1 was the cause of its         
ruin4--,to remedy  the misfortune1      
recourse was had to extraordinary       
efforts3 the ,king  contributed twelve  
thousand francs2 the chapter a portion  
of their  revenue and their plate2      
collections were made throughout the    
kingdom2  and ,leo ,xth authorised the  
sale of indulgences1 a measure1 which1  
at  nearly the same period1 in its more 
extensive adoption for the building  of 
,st4 ,peter's at ,rome1 shook the       
,papacy to its foundation4 ,the spire   
thus raised1 the second of wood1 but the

 third in chronological order1  is the  
one which is now in existence4 ,it was1 
like its predecessor1  endangered by the
 carelessness of the plumbers1 in #agac2
 but it does not  appear to have        
required any material reparations till  
ten years ago1  when a sum of thirty    
thousand francs was expended upon it4   
,from what has already been said1 you   
will not have failed to observe  that   
this cathedral is the work of so many   
different periods1 that it  almost      
contains within itself a history of     
pointed architecture4 ,to  attempt a    
labored description of it were idle3    
minute details of any one  of the       
portals would fill a moderate volume2   
and a quarto of seven  hundred pages1   
from which ,i have borrowed most of my  
dates1 has already  been written upon   
the subject by a ,benedictine ,monk of  
the name of  ,pommeraye1 who also       
published the history of the            
,archbishops of the  ,see#gi4    ,the   
first church at ,rouen was built about  

the year #bgj3 three hundred  and thirty
 years subsequently1 this edifice was   
succeeded by another1  the joint work of
 ,st4 ,romain and ,st4 ,ouen1 which was 
burned in the  incursions of the        
,normans1 about the year #hdb4 ,fifty   
years of ,paganism  succeeded2 at the   
expiration of which period1 ,rollo      
embraced the faith  of ,christ1 and     
,rouen saw once more within its walls1  
by the munificence  and piety of the    
conqueror1 a place of ,christian        
worship4 ,richard ,ist1  grandson of    
this duke1 and his son ,robert1 the     
archbishop1 enlarged the  edifice in the
 middle of the tenth century2 but it was
 still not  completed till #ajfc1 when1 
according to ,ordericus ,vitalis1 it was
  dedicated by the ,archbishop          
,maurilius with great pomp1 in the      
presence  of ,william1 ,duke of         
,normandy1 and the bishops of the       
province4 ,of this  building1 however1  
notwithstanding what is said by         
,ducarel#hj and other  authors1 it is   

certain that nothing more remains than  
the part of ,st4  ,romain's tower1 just 
noticed1 and possibly two of the western
 entrances2  though the present         
structure is believed to occupy the same
 spot4    ,to the honor of the spirit   
and good feeling of the inhabitants of  
,rouen1  this church is one of those    
that suffered least in the outrages of  
the  year #agic4 ,its dimensions1 in    
,french feet1 are as follows3--         
,,feet4        ,length of the           
interior44444444444444 #djh      ,width 
of ditto44444444444444444444444 #hc     
,length of nave4444444444444444444444   
#baj      ,width of                     
nave444444444444444444444444 #bg        
,ditto of aisles4444444444444444444444  
#ae      ,length of                     
choir444444444444444444444 #aaj         
,width of ditto44444444444444444444444  
#ce-a_/b      ,ditto of                 
transept44444444444444444444 #be-a_/b   
,length of ditto444444444444444444444   
#afd      ,ditto of                     

,lady-,chapel44444444444444444 #hh      
,width of ditto44444444444444444444444  
#bh      ,height of                     
spire444444444444444444444 #chj         
,ditto of towers at the west end44444   
#bcj      ,ditto of                     
nave444444444444444444444444 #hd        
,ditto of aisles and chapels4444444444  
#db      ,ditto of interior of central  
tower44 #aeb      ,depth of             
chapels444444444444444444444 #aj        
,four clustered pillars support the     
central tower1 each of which is         
thirty-eight feet in circumference2 the 
rest1 of which there are  forty-four in 
the nave and choir1 those in the former 
clustered1 the  others circular1 are    
less by one-third4 ,the windows amount  
in number to  one hundred and           
thirty-three2 the chapels to            
twenty-five4 ,most of the  latter were  
fitted up during the minority of ,louis 
,x,i,vth1 with wreathed  columns1       
entwined with foliage1 the style in     
vogue in the seventeenth  century4 ,in  

the farthest of these chapels1 upon the 
south side1 is the  tomb of ,rollo1     
first ,duke of ,normandy2 in the        
opposite chapel1 that of  his son and   
successor1 ,william ,longue-,epe1 who   
was treacherously  murdered at          
,pecquigny1 in #idd1 during a conference
 with ,arnoul1 ,count of  ,flanders4    
,illustration3 ,monumental ,figure of   
,rollo1 in ,rouen ,cathedral    ,the    
effigies of both these princes still    
remain placed upon sarcophagi1  under   
plain niches in the wall4 ,they are     
certainly not contemporary  with the    
persons which they represent1 but are   
probably productions of  the thirteenth 
century1 to which period ,mr4 ,stothard1
 from whose  judgment few will be       
disposed to appeal1 refers the greater  
part of what  are called the most       
ancient in the ,muse des ,monumens      
,franais4 ,at the  same time1 they may  
possibly have been copied from others of
 earlier  date2 and ,i therefore send   
you a slight sketch of the figure of    

,rollo4  ,even imaginary portraits of   
celebrated men are not without their    
value3  we are interested by seeing how 
they have been conceived by the         
artist4--,above the statue is the       
following inscription3--         ,,hic  
,,positus ,,est       ,,rollo1          
,,normanni ,a ,,se ,,territ1 ,,vastat1  
,,restitut1       ,,primus ,,dux1       
,,conditor1 ,,pater1       ,a ,,francone
 ,,archiep4 ,,rotom4       ,,baptizatus 
,,anno ,,dccccxiii1       ,,obiit ,,anno
 ,,dccccxvii4       ,,ossa ,,ipsius ,,in
 ,,veteri ,,sanctuario1       ,,nunc    
,,capite ,,navis1 ,,primum ,,condita1   
,,translato ,,altari1 ,,hic ,,collocata 
,,sunt ,a ,b4 ,,maurilio ,,archiep4     
,,rotom4       ,,anno ,,mlxiii4    ,two 
other epitaphs in rhyming ,latin1 which 
were previously upon his  tomb1 are     
recorded by various authors3 the first  
of them began with the  three following 
lines--         ,,dux ,,normannorum1    
,,cunctorum ,,norma ,,bonorum1          
,,rollo ,,ferus ,,fortis1 ,,quem ,,gens 

,,normannica ,,mortis       ,,invocat   
,,articulo1 ,,clauditur ,,hoc ,,tumulo4 
,over ,william ,longue-,epe is          
inscribed--         ,,hic ,,positus     
,,est       ,,gulielmus ,,dictus ,,longa
 ,,spatha1       ,,rollonis ,,filius1   
,,dux ,,normanni1       ,,predatorie    
,,occisus ,,dccccxxxxiv4    with an     
account of the removal of his bones1    
exactly similar to the  concluding part 
of his father's epitaph4    ,the        
perspective on first entering the church
 is very striking3 the eye  ranges      
without interruption1 through a vista of
 lofty pillars and  pointed arches1 to  
the splendid altar in the ,lady-,chapel1
 which forms at  once an admirable      
termination to the building and the     
prospect4 ,the high  altar in the choir 
is plain and insulated4 ,no other praise
 can be given  to the screen1 except    
that it does not interrupt the view2 for
 surely it  was the very consummation of
 bad taste to place in such an edifice1 
a  double row of eight modern ,ionic    

pillars1 in white marble1 with the      
figures of ,hope and ,charity between   
them1 surmounted by a crucifix1  flanked
 on either side with two ,grecian vases4
    ,the interior falls upon the eye    
with boldness and regularity1 pleasing  
from its proportions1 and imposing from 
its magnitude4 ,the arches which  spring
 from the pillars of the aisles1 are    
surmounted by a second row1  occupying  
the space which is usually held by the  
triforium3 the vaulted  roof of the     
aisles runs to the level of the top of  
this upper tier4 ,this  arrangement1    
which is found in other ,norman         
churches1 is almost peculiar  to these2 
and in ,england it has no parallel1     
except in the nave of  ,waltham ,abbey4 
,within the aisle you observe a singular
 combination of  small pillars1 attached
 to the columns of the nave3 they stand 
on a  species of bracket1 which is      
supported by the abacus of the capital2 
and they spread along the spandrils of  
the arches on either side4 ,these       

pillars support a kind of entablature1  
which takes a triangular plan4  ,the    
whole bears a near resemblance to the   
style of the ,byzantine  architecture4  
,above the second row of arches are two 
rows of galleries4  ,the story          
containing the clerestory windows crowns
 the whole2 so that  there are five     
horizontal divisions in the nave4--,i   
give these details1  because they       
indicate the decided difference of order
 which exists  between the ,norman and  
the ,english ,gothic2 a difference for  
which ,i have  not been able to assign  
any satisfactory cause4    ,the tombs   
that were originally in the choir1      
commemorating ,charles ,vth1  of        
,france2 ,richard ,coeur de ,lion2 his  
elder brother1 ,henry2 and ,william1    
son of ,geoffrey ,plantagenet1 were all 
removed in #agcf1 as interfering  with  
the embellishments then in              
contemplation4 ,the first of them alone 
was preserved and transferred to the    
,lady-,chapel1 where it has             

subsequently fallen a victim to the     
revolution4 ,the others are wholly      
destroyed2 nor could ,ducarel find even 
a fragment of the effigies that  had    
been upon them2 but engravings of these 
had fortunately been  preserved by      
,montfaucon#ha1 from whom he has copied 
them4 ,the monument  of the celebrated  
,john of ,lancaster1 third son of our   
,henry ,i,vth1 better  known as the     
,regent ,duke of ,bedford1 had been     
previously annihilated by  the          
,calvinists4 ,lozenge-shaped slabs of   
white marble1 charged with              
inscriptions1 were inserted in the      
pavement over the spots that contain    
the remains of the princes1 and they    
have been suffered to continue          
uninjured through the succeeding        
tumults4 ,on the right of the altar1    
you read1--         ,,cor               
,,richardi1 ,,regis ,,angli1            
,,normanni ,,ducis1       ,,cor ,,leonis
 ,,dicti4       ,,obiit ,,anno          
,,mcxcix4    ,on the opposite side3--   

,,hic ,,jacet       ,,henricus ,,junior1
       ,,richardi1 ,,regis ,,angli1     
,,cor ,,leonis ,,dicti1 ,,frater4       
,,obiit ,,anno       ,,mclxxxiii4       
,and in the choir behind the altar3--   
,,ad ,,dextrum ,,altaris ,,latus        
,,jacet       ,,johannes1 ,,dux         
,,bedfordi1       ,,normanni ,,prorex4  
,,obiit ,,anno       ,,mccccxxxv4    ,of
 ,prince ,william nothing is said2 it   
was found1 upon opening his place  of   
sepulture1 that he had not been interred
 here4--,richard strangely  received a  
triple funeral4 ,in obedience to his    
wishes1 his heart was  buried at ,rouen1
 while his body was carried to          
,fontevraud1 and his  entrails were     
deposited in the church of ,chaluz1     
where he was  killed3--this division is 
commemorated in the quaint1 yet         
energetic  lines1 which are said to have
 been inscribed upon his tomb3--        
,,viscera ,,carceolum1 ,,corpus ,,fons  
,,servat ,,ebrardi1         ,,et ,,cor  
,,rotomagum1 ,,magne ,,richarde1 ,,tuum4

       ,,in ,,tria ,,dividitur ,,unus   
,,qui ,,plus ,,fuit ,,uno2         ,,nec
 ,,superest ,,uni ,,gloria ,,tanta      
,,viro4    ,richard neither withheld his
 gifts nor his protection from the      
metropolitan church2 and1 after his     
death1 the chapter inclosed the  heart  
of their benefactor in a shrine of      
silver4 ,but a hundred and fifty  years 
subsequently1 the shrine was despoiled1 
and the precious metal was  melted into 
ingots1 forming a portion of the ransom 
which redeemed ,st4  ,louis from the    
fetters of his ,saracen conqueror4      
,henry the younger1 who was crowned     
,king of ,england during the life-time  
of his father1 against whom he          
subsequently revolted1 also requested on
  his death-bed1 that his body might be 
interred in this church2 and his        
directions were obeyed1 though not      
without much difficulty2 for the        
chapter of the cathedral of ,mans1 where
 his servants rested with the  body in  
transitu1 seized and buried it there2   

nor did those of ,rouen  recover the    
corpse1 without application to the ,pope
 and to the ,king his  father4    ,a    
tablet of black marble1 affixed to one  
of the pillars of the nave1  contains   
the following interesting memorial3     
,,in ,,media ,,navi1       ,e ,,regione 
,,hujus ,,column1       ,,jacet         
,,beat ,,mem4 ,,maurilius1              
,,archiep4 ,,rotom4 ,,an4 ,,mlv4        
,,hanc ,,basilicam ,,perfecit           
,,consecravitque ,,anno ,,mlxiii4       
,,vix ,,natos ,,berengarii ,,errores    
,,in ,,prox4 ,,concil4 ,,pr,,focavit4   
,,plenus ,,meritis ,,obiit ,,ann4       
,,mlxvii4       ,,hoc ,,pontif4         
,,normanni1       ,,gulielmo ,,duce1    
,,anglia ,,potiti ,,sunt       ,,anno   
,,mlxvi4    ,illustration3 ,monumental  
,figure of an ,archbishop1 in ,rouen    
,cathedral    ,in the northern aisle of 
the choir1 there still exists a curious 
monument1 in an injured state indeed1   
but well deserving of attention1  from  
its antiquity4 ,it has been referred by 

tradition to ,maurice1 or  ,william of  
,durefort1 both of them archbishops of  
,rouen1 and buried in  the cathedral1   
the former in #abcg1 the latter in      
#acca2 but the recumbent  figure upon it
 seems of a yet more distant date4 ,it  
differs in several  respects from any   
that ,i have seen in ,england#hb4 ,the  
tomb is in the  wall1 behind a range of 
pillars1 which form a kind of open      
screen round  the apsis4 ,below the     
effigy1 it is decorated with a row of   
whole-length  figures of saints1 much   
mutilated3 the circular part above is   
lined with  angels1 a couple of whom are
 employed in conveying the soul of the  
deceased in a winding-sheet to          
heaven#hc4    ,illustration3 ,monument  
of an ,archbishop    ,the ,lady-,chapel 
contains two monuments of great merit1  
and which1  considered as specimens of  
matured art1 have now no rivals in      
,normandy2  for both owe their origin to
 a period of refinement and splendor4   
,the  sepulchre raised over the bodies  

of the two ,cardinals of ,amboise1      
successively ,archbishops of ,rouen1    
towers on the southern side of the      
chapel4 ,the statues of the cardinals   
are of white marble4 ,the prelates      
appear kneeling in prayer2 and the      
following inscription1 engraved in a    
single line1 and not divided into       
verses1 is placed beneath them3--       
,,pastor ,,eram ,,cleri1 ,,populi       
,,pater1 ,,aurea ,,sese       ,,lilia   
,,subdebant ,,quercus#hd ,,et ,,ipsa    
,,mihi4       ,,mortuus ,,en ,,jaceo1   
,,morte ,,extinguuntur ,,honores2       
,,at ,,virtus ,,mortis ,,nesgia ,,morte 
,,viret4    ,immediately behind the     
cardinals are figures of patron saints2 
a centre  tablet represents ,st4 ,george
 and the ,dragon2 above are the         
apostles2  below1 the seven cardinal    
virtues4 ,the execution of these is     
particularly admired1 especially that of
 the figure of ,prudence2 but a  row of 
still smaller figures1 in devotional    
attitudes1 carved upon the  pilasters   

between the virtues1 are in higher      
taste4 ,various arabesques  in          
basso-relievo1 of great beauty1 and     
completely in the style of the  ,loggie 
of ,raphael1 adorn the other parts of   
this sumptuous tomb4--,as a  whole it is
 unquestionably grand1 and it is yet    
farther valuable as an  illustration of 
the gorgeous taste that prevailed at the
 end of the  fifteenth century2 but the 
mixture of black and white marble and   
gilding  has by no means a good effect1 
and every part is overloaded with       
ornaments#he4 ,these1 however1 are the  
faults of the times3 its merits  are its
 own4    ,on the north side of the      
chapel is entombed the ,duke of ,brez1  
once  ,grand ,seneschal of ,normandy2   
his tomb is chaste and simple1 forming a
  pleasing contrast to the elaborate    
memorial of the cardinals4 ,the statue  
of the seneschal himself1 represented   
stretched as a corpse1 upon a  black    
marble sarcophagus1 is admirable for its
 execution4 ,the rigid  expression of   

death is visible1 not only in the       
countenance1 but extends  through every 
limb4 ,diana of ,poitiers1 a beauty who 
enjoys more  celebrity than good fame1  
erected the monument2 and she caused her
  statue to be placed on the tomb1 where
 she is seen kneeling and               
contemplating4 ,in the following        
inscription she promises to be as       
faithful and united to him after his    
death as she was while they both  lived3
 and she truly kept her word2 for1      
during his life-time1 she was           
grievously suspected of infidelity#hf1  
and she subsequently lived in  an open  
state of concubinage with ,henry ,i,ind1
 and was at last buried at  her own     
celebrated residence at ,anet1 twenty   
leagues from her husband4--             
,,hoc1 ,,lodoice1 ,,tibi ,,posui1       
,,brez,e1 ,,sepulchrum1       ,,pictonis
 ,,amisso ,,moesta ,,diana ,,viro2      
,,indivulsa ,,tibi ,,quondam ,,et       
,,fidissima ,,conjux1       ,,ut ,,fuit 
,,in ,,thalamo1 ,,sic ,,erit ,,in       

,,tumulo4    ,a second female figure on 
the tomb1 with a child in her arms1 has 
been  supposed intended to represent the
 nurse of the duke2 as if the design  of
 the sculptor had been to read a lesson 
to mortality1 by exhibiting  the warrior
 in the helplessness of infancy1 in the 
vigor of manhood1 and  as a breathless  
corpse4 ,some persons1 however1 consider
 it as a  personification of ,charity2  
others suppose that it represents the   
,virgin  ,mary4 ,in the midst was       
originally an erect statue of ,de ,brez1
 decorated  with the various symbols of 
his dignities2 but this sinned beyond   
the  hope of redemption against the     
doctrines of liberty and equality1 and  
it  was accordingly removed at the time 
of the revolution1 together with two    
inscriptions4 ,one of them1 which       
detailed his honors1 with the addition  
that he died ,july twenty-third1 #aeca1 
has recently been recovered by the  care
 of ,m4 ,riaux1 and is restored to its  
place4 ,the other inscription  and the  

effigy1 it is feared1 are irrevocably   
lost4 ,an equestrian statue  in the     
upper part of the monument was suffered 
to remain1 and1 as a  record of the     
military costume of the sixteenth       
century1 ,i annex a  sketch of it4 ,the 
armorial hearings upon the horse and    
armor are nearly  obliterated4--,the    
pile is surmounted a figure of          
,temperance2 the bridle  in whose mouth 
shews how absurd is allegory1 when      
submitted to the  faithful eye4         
,illustration3 ,equestrian ,figure of   
the ,seneschal de ,brez1 in ,rouen      
,cathedral    ,lenoir1 who1 in his work 
on the ,muse des ,monumens ,franais1 has
  treated much at large of the history  
of ,diana of ,poitiers1 and has  figured
 her own beautiful mausoleum1 which he  
had the merit of rescuing  from         
destruction1 pronounces#hg this monument
 to be from the hand of  ,jean ,cousin1 
one of the most able sculptors of the   
,french school4    ,over the altar in   
the ,lady-,chapel is the only good      

painting in the  cathedral1 the         
,adoration of the ,shepherds1 by ,philip
 de ,champagne1 a  solid1 well-colored1 
and well-grouped picture4 ,two cherubs  
in the air  are excellently conceived   
and drawn3 the whole is lighted from the
  infant ,christ in the cradle1 a       
concetto1 which has been almost         
universally adopted1 since the time when
 ,corregio painted his celebrated       
,notte1 now at ,dresden4    ,there is no
 great quantity of painted glass in the 
church1 but much of  it is of good      
quality4 ,the windows of the choir1 on  
either side of the  ,lady-,chapel1 are  
as rich as a profusion of brilliant     
colors can make  them2 but the figures  
are so small1 and so crowded1 that the  
subjects  cannot be traced4 ,they are   
said to be the work of the thirteenth   
century4 ,the painted windows in ,st4   
,stephen's chapel1 of the sixteenth     
century1 are generally considered the   
best in the cathedral4 ,i own1  however1
 that ,i should give the preference to  

those in the chapel of  ,st4 ,romain1 in
 the south transept4 ,one of them is    
filled with  allegorical representations
 of the virtues of the archbishop2      
another  with his miracles3 every part  
is distinct and clear1 and executed with
  great force and great minuteness4 ,the
 vestments of the saint have all  the   
delicacy of miniature-painting4    ,the 
library of the cathedral1 formerly one  
of the richest in ,france1  disappeared 
during the revolution2 but the noble    
room which contained  it1 one hundred   
feet long1 by twenty-five feet wide1    
still remains  uninjured2 as does the   
door which led into it from the northern
  transept1 and which continues to this 
day to bear the inscription1            
,bibliotheca4 ,the staircase1           
communicating with this door1 is        
delicate  and beautiful4 ,the           
balustrades are of the most elegant     
filagree2 and it  has all the boldness  
and lightness which peculiarly          
characterise the  ,french ,gothic4 ,its 

date being well ascertained1 we may note
 it as an  architectural standard4 ,it  
was erected by the archbishop1 ,cardinal
  d',etouteville1 about the year #adfj1 
thirty or forty years subsequently  to  
the building of the room4    ,respecting
 the contents of the sacristy1 ,i can   
say little from my own  knowledge2 but  
,i find by ,pommeraye1 that1 before the 
revolution1 it  boasted of a large      
silver image of the ,virgin1 endued with
 peculiar  sanctity1 a few drops of her 
milk1 and a portion of her hair#hh2 a   
splinter of the true cross1 set in gold1
 studded with pearls1  sapphires1 and   
turquoises2 and reliques of saints      
without number4 ,now1  however1 it      
appears1 that of all its treasures1 it  
has preserved little  else except the   
shrine of ,st4 ,romain1 and another     
known by the general  name of ,chasse   
des ,saints4 ,the former is two feet six
 inches long1 and  one foot nine inches 
high1 and is of handsome workmanship1   
with a  variety of figures on the sides1

 and ,st4 ,romain himself at the top4   
,formerly it was supposed to be made of 
gold2 now ,i was assured by one of  the 
canons1 that it is of silver gilt2 but  
,gilbert#hi1 who is a plain  layman1    
maintains that it is only copper4 ,had  
it been otherwise1 it  would have       
contributed to the ways and means of the
 unchristian  republic2 but the         
democrats spared it1 for they had well  
ascertained  that the metal was base1   
and that the jewels1 which adorn it1 are
 but  glass4--,this is not the original 
shrine which held the precious relics3  
the shrine in which they were deposited 
by the archbishop1 ,william ,bonne      
,ame1 when first brought to the         
cathedral1 in #ajij1 was sold during a  
famine1 and its proceeds distributed to 
the starving poor2 after which1  in     
#aagi1 ,archbishop ,rotrou caused       
another still more costly to be made2   
but the latter was broken to pieces by  
the ,calvinists1 in #aefb1 and the      
saint's body cast into the fire#ij4     

,thus1 then1 ,i have led you1 as far as 
,i am able2 through the cathedral1      
adjoining which1 at the east end1 stands
 the palace of the archbishop1 a  large 
building1 but neither handsome nor      
conspicuous1 principally the  work of   
the ,cardinal ,georges d',amboise1      
though begun by the ,cardinal           
d',etouteville1 in #adfa4 ,the rooms in 
it which are shewn to strangers are  the
 anti-chamber1 commonly called la salle 
de la ,croix1 the library1  and the     
great gallery4 ,this last1 which is one 
hundred and sixty feet  long1 is also   
known by the name of la salle des       
,etats4 ,in it are  placed four very    
large paintings by ,robert1 an eminent  
,french artist of  comparatively modern 
date4 ,they represent the city of       
,rouen1 the town of  ,dieppe1 that of   
,havre de ,grace1 and the archiepiscopal
 palace at  ,gaillon4 ,the view of      
,rouen represents in the foreground the 
petit  ,chteau1 and is on that account  
peculiarly interesting4 ,all of them are

  fine paintings1 but much injured by   
the damp4 ,in the anti-chamber are      
portraits of seven prelates of the see1 
and among them those of the  ,cardinal  
de la ,rochefoucault1 and ,m4 de        
,tressan3 our guide could name no       
others4    ,the present archbishop is   
the ,cardinal ,cambacrs1 brother to the 
ex-consul of that name1 a man of moral  
life and regular in his religious       
duties4 ,he was placed here by ,napolon1
 all of whose appointments of  this     
nature1 with one or two exceptions1 have
 been suffered to remain2  but ,i need  
scarcely add that1 though the title of  
archbishop is left1  and its present    
possessor is decorated with the ,roman  
purple1 neither  the revenue1 nor the   
dignity1 nor the establishment1 resemble
 those of  former times4 ,the chapter1  
which1 before the revolution1 consisted 
of an  archbishop1 a dean1 fifty canons1
 and ten prebendaries1 besides          
numberless attendants1 now consists but 
of his eminence1 with the dean1  the    

treasurer1 the archdeacon1 and twelve   
canons4 ,the independent annual  income 
of the church1 previous to the          
revolution1 exceeded one hundred        
thousand pounds sterling2 but now its   
ministers are all salaried by           
government1 whose stated allowance1 as  
,i am credibly informed1 is to  every   
archbishop six hundred and twenty-five  
pounds per annum2 to every  bishop four 
hundred and sixteen pounds thirteen     
shillings and fourpence2  and to every  
canon forty-one pounds thirteen         
shillings and four-pence4  ,but each of 
these stipends is doubled by an         
allowance of the same amount  from the  
department2 and care is taken to select 
men of independent  property for the    
highest dignities4--,from the foregoing 
scale1 you may  judge of the state of   
the religious establishment in ,france4 
,it is1  indeed1 unjustly and           
unreasonably depressed1 and there is    
much room for  amendment2 but we must   
still hope and trust that things will   

not soon  regain their former standard1 
though attempts are daily making to     
identify the ,catholic clergy with the  
present dynasty2 and the most  lively   
expectations are entertained from the   
well-known character of  some of the    
royal family4    ,footnotes3    #ga     
,bentham1 ,history of ,ely1 #bnd edit4  
,i4 p4 #cd4    #gb ,liverpool ,panorama 
of ,arts and ,sciences1 article         
,architecture4    #gc ,the only views of
 the cathedral with which ,i am         
acquainted1 are1      ,a single plate of
 the west front1 #af in4 by             
#aa-a_/b;in4--,anonymous2    4 4 4 4 4 4
 4 4 4 4 4 north side1 #af in4 by       
#aa-a_/b;in4--,marked ,s4,l4,b42    ,a  
small north-west view1 engraved by      
,pouncey1 in the first volume      of   
,gough's ,alien ,priories2    ,and the  
west front1 on an extremely reduced2    
scale1 in ,seroux      d',agincourt's   
,histoire de l',art par les ,monumens1  
,architecture1      t4 #fd4 f4 #ba4 p4  
#fh4    #gd ,this great benefactor to   

,rouen died the following year1 deeply  
lamented by the inhabitants1 and        
generally so by ,france2 but1 above all1
  regretted by ,louis ,x,i,ith1 his     
sovereign1 whom1 to use the words of    
,guicciardini1 he served as oracle and  
authority4 ,the author of the  ,history 
of the ,chevalier ,bayard1 is still     
louder in his praise4--,the  western    
facade of the cathedral was not finished
 till #aecj1 twenty years  after his    
death4    #ge ,a representation of this 
has recently been published from an     
engraving on stone by ,langlois4    #gf 
,histoire de l',eglise ,cathdrale de    
,rouen1 p4 #ej4    #gg ,noel1 ,essais   
sur le ,dpartement de la ,seine         
,infrieure1 ,,ii4 p4  #bci4    #gh      
,millin1 ,histoire ,mtallique de la     
,rvolution ,franaise1 t4 #bb4 f4  #hd4  
#gi ,histoire des ,archevques de ,rouen1
 folio #affg4    #hj ,anglo-,norman     
,antiquities1 p4 #ab4    #ha ,monumens  
de la ,monarchie ,franaise1 ,,ii4 t4    
#ae4 f4 #c and #e4    #hb ,as these     

effigies are in general little          
understood1 even by those  who look at  
them with pleasure as specimens of art1 
or with respect as  relics of antiquity1
 ,i am happy to be able to give the     
following  detailed illustration of this
 at ,rouen1 extracted from a letter     
which  the ,right ,rev4 ,dr4 ,milner had
 lately the kindness to write me upon   
the  subject4       ,the sepulchral     
monument in the cathedral of ,rouen     
represents a     prelate2 that is to    
say1 ,bishop or ,mitred ,abbot1 as      
appears by his     mitre1 gloves1 ring1 
and sandals4 ,but1 as he bears the      
,pallium1 7to     be seen on his neck1  
just above his breast1 and hanging down 
before     him1 almost to his feet7 it  
appears that he is a ,metropolitan1 or  
,archbishop1 as1 indeed1 each of the    
bishops of ,rouen was1 from the     time
 of ,st4 ,ouen and ,st4 ,romanus1 in the
 seventh century1 if not from     that  
of ,st4 ,nicasius1 in the third or      
fourth4 ,the statue has been            

mutilated in the mitre1 the face1 and   
the crosier2 probably when the          
,huguenots were masters of the city4    
,the mitre is low1 as they used to      
be from the tenth century1 when they    
began to rise at all in the     ,latin  
,church1 down to the fourteenth1 since  
which they have grown to     their      
present disproportioned height4 ,the    
arms are crossed1 as in     prayer2 and 
the left arm supported a crosier1 the   
remnant of which is     seen under that 
arm4 ,both hands are wrapped up in      
ornamented gloves1     which were an    
essential part of the prelatic dress4   
,the principal     vestment is the      
,planeta1 ,casula1 or ,chausible2 as it 
was shaped     till within these three  
or four hundred years4 ,underneath that1
 and     behind the hanging ,pallium1   
appears the ,dalmatic1 edged with gold  
lace2 and under that1 extending the     
whole breadth of the figure1 and        
finishing with rich and deep thread     
lace1 is the ,alb1 made of fine         

linen4 ,the ,tunic is quite hidden by   
the dalmatic4 ,the ,sandals     appear  
to be of gold tissue1 and to rest on a  
rich carpet4       ,i ought to have     
mentioned1 that the mitre appears1 by   
the jewels     with which it is         
ornamented1 to represent that which is  
called ,mitra     pretiosa1 from this   
circumstance4 ,an inferior kind of      
mitre1 worn on     less solemn          
occasions1 was termed ,mitra            
,aurifrygiata2 and a common     one1    
made of plain linen or silk1 was termed 
,simplex ,mitra4 ,the     only part of  
the dress which puzzles me1 is the great
 ornament on the     neck and shoulders4
 ,the question is1 7which those can best
 determine     who have seen the        
original statue17 whether it adheres to 
the     ,pallium1 or to the ,casula4 ,in
 either case1 it must be considered     
as part of the vestment to which it     
adheres4       ,it is quite out of my   
power to determine1 or even to          
conjecture on     any rational grounds1 

which1 of a certain three-score of      
archbishops     of ,rouen1 the figure   
represents2 but1 if ,i were to choose   
between     ,maurice1 the fifty-fourth  
archbishop1 who died in #abce1 and      
,william1     of ,durefort1 the         
sixty-first1 who died in #accj1 from the
 comparative     lowness of the mitre1  
and some other circumstances of the     
dress1 ,i     should determine in favor 
of the former4 ,perhaps it may represent
 our     ,walter1 who was first ,bishop 
of ,lincoln1 and then transferred to    
,rouen1 by ,pope ,lucius ,i,i,ird4 ,he  
died in #abjh1 after having signalized  
himself as much as any of his           
predecessors or successors have done4   
,p4,s4 ,on consulting with an           
intelligent ecclesiastic of ,rouen1 ,i  
am     inclined to think that the       
above-mentioned ornament upon the       
shoulders1 is the ,mozetta1 being a     
short round cloak1 which all     bishops
 still wear1 with the ,rochet1 ,pectoral
 ,cross1 and ,purple     ,cassock1 as   

their ordinary dress2 but1 in modern    
times1 the     ,mozetta is laid aside1  
when the prelate puts on his officiating
     vestments2 though he retains the   
cassock1 cross1 and rochet1             
underneath them4 ,my informant says1    
that this mozett is common on the       
tombs of bishops who died in former     
ages4    #hc ,the same idea is to be    
observed on many ancient monuments3     
among  others1 it is engraved on the    
fine sepulchral brass to the memory of  
,sir  ,hugh ,hastings1 in ,elsing       
church4--,see ,cotman's ,norfolk        
,sepulchral  ,brasses4    #hd ,by the   
words ,lilia and ,quercus1 are          
designated the armorial  bearings of the
 ,king of ,france1 and ,pope ,julius    
,i,ind1 of the ,house of  ,rovere4      
#he ,the bodies of the ,cardinals       
d',amboise were dug up in #agic1        
together  with most of the others       
interred in the cathedral1 for the sake 
of their  leaden coffins3 at the same   
time the lead was also stripped from the

  transepts2 and a colossal statue of   
,st4 ,george1 which stood on the        
eastern point of the choir1 was likewise
 consigned to the furnace4    #hf       
,ducarel says 7,anglo-,norman           
,antiquities1 p4 #bj47 that she was the 
favorite mistress of two successive     
kings2 but ,i do not find this          
assertion borne out by history4    #hg  
,vol4 ,,iv4 p4 #dg4    #hh ,the doctrine
 of the ,assumption of the ,virgin      
,mary1 gave rise to  some curious doubts
 respecting the authenticity of the     
,virgin's hair4  ,ferrand1 the ,jesuit1 
states the arguments to the contrary    
with candor2  but replies to them with  
laudable firmness4 ,the passage is a    
whimsical  specimen of the style and    
reasoning of the schools3--,restat      
posteriore  loco de capillis ,deipar    
,virginis paucis dicere1 enimver an illi
 sint  jam in terris6--,dubitationem    
aliquam afferre potest mirabilis ipsius 
anastasis1 et in coelum viventis        
videntisque assumptio                   

triumphalis4--,quid ita8--quid si intra 
triduum ad vitam revocata1 si  coelis   
triumphantis in morem invecta1 si       
corpore glori circumfuso  ,christo      
assidet8 ,quidquid ,virgineo capiti     
crinium inerat hand dubi  clis intulit1 
ne quid perfect ac numeris omnibus      
absolut ipsius  pulchritudini deesse    
possit4 ,n ille in politiori literatur  
imo et in  rebus humanis omnino         
peregrinus sit qui ignoret quantum ad   
muliebrem  formam com conferat          
pulchritudo 444 ne singulas ,marian     
pulchritudinis  dotes persequar1 ejus   
ima craries de qu1 agimus tant fuit     
venustatis  ut mysticus ipsius ,sponsus 
bland querulus exclamare cogatur1       
vulnerasti cor meum in uno crine colli  
tui4444 ,nnias igitur occinere  videtur 
qui ,deipar capillos in terris relatos  
esse memoret atque adeo  servari        
obfirmat asseveret1 cm illos tantum ad  
rediviv ,virginis  speciem conferre     
constet4--,non efficiet tamen unquam hc 
,antidicomarianit fabula1 quin credam   

bene multos ex aure ,dei  ,genitricis   
csarie crines1 diversis in locis        
ecclesiisque religios  servari4444 ,me  
fidei non unum est argumentum2 nam a    
prim tate ad  confectam usque1 e ,marian
 com non pancos1 ut fit1 capillos pecten
  decussit1 nisi si fort csariem ,b4    
,virginis impexam semper perstitisse    
velis1 qud numquam 7ut inquit de        
,christo ,diva ,brigitta7 super eam     
venit  vermis1 aut perplexitas1 aut     
immunditium4 ,at sine caus multiplicari 
miracula quis quo animo feret8--,ubi    
vero ,genetrix e vit discessit1  qum    
sollicit pollinctrices auream illam     
,marian com segetem  demessuerunt1 qum  
in sacris suis tunc hierothecia         
reconderent ad  memoriam tant           
,imperatricis1 et ad su consolationis et
 pietatis  argumentum3 qud si fort totam
 funditsque a pollinctricibus1 ,deipar  
reverentissimis1 demessam csariem ferre 
nec possis nec velis1 extremes  saltem  
illius cincinnos attonsos fuisse feres  
ab piissimis illis  fminis1 quibus vel  

perexiguus ,dei ,genitricis capillus    
ingentis thesauri  loco futurus         
etat4--,disquisitio ,reliquiaria1 l4 #a4
 cap4 ,,ii4    #hi ,description         
,historique de l',eglise de ,notre ,dame
 de ,rouen1 p4 #hc4    #ij ,the event is
 described in the metrical history of   
,rouen1 composed  by a minstrel ycleped 
,poirier1 the limper4 ,this little tract
 is a  chap-book at ,rouen3 most towns1 
in the north of ,france and ,belgium1   
possess such chronicle ballads in       
doggerel rhyme1 which are much read1    
and eke chaunted1 by the common people4 
444 un massacre horrible       ,survint 
soudainement4       ,les ,huguenots     
terribles       ,et ,montgommerie       
puissant1       ,par cruels enterprises 
,renverserent les ,eglises       ,de    
,rouen pour certain4       ,sans aucune 
relche       ,pillent et volent la chsse
       ,du corps de ,st4 ,romain4       
,le zel ,catholique       ,poursuivant  
l',huguenot       ,un combat hroique    
,lui livra  propos1       ,au lieu nomm 

la ,crosse1       ,et reprirent par     
force       ,la chsse du ,patron4       
,puis de la ,rue des ,carmes       ,la  
portent  ,notre ,dame       ,en         
dposition6          ,,letter ,,xi4      
,,pointed ,,ecclesiastical              
,,architecture--,,the ,,churches ,,of   
,,st4 ,,ouen1 ,,st4  ,,maclou1 ,,st4    
,,patrice1 ,,and ,,st4 ,,godard4        
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,in the      
religious buildings1 the subject of my  
preceding letters1 ,i have  endeavored  
to point out to you the specimens which 
exist at ,rouen1 of  the two earliest   
styles of architecture4 ,the churches   
which ,i shall next  notice belong to   
the third1 or decorated style1 the ra of
 large  windows with pointed arches     
divided by mullions1 with tracery in    
flowing  lines and geometrical curves1  
and with an abundance of rich and       
delicate  carving4    ,this style was   
principally confined in ,england to a   
period of about  seventy years1 during  
the reigns of the second and third      

,edward4 ,in  ,france it appears to have
 prevailed much longer4 ,it probably    
began there  full fifty years sooner    
than with us1 and it continued till it  
was  superseded by the revival of       
,grecian or ,italian architecture4 ,i   
speak of  ,france in general1 but ,i    
must again repeat1 that my observations 
are  chiefly restricted to the northern 
provinces1 the little knowledge which   
,i possess of the rest being derived    
from engravings4 ,no where1 however1    
have ,i been able to trace among our    
,gallic neighbors the existence of  the 
simple perpendicular style1 which is the
 most frequent by far in  our own       
country1 nor of that more gorgeous      
variety denominated by our  antiquaries 
after the family of ,tudor4    ,so long 
as ,normandy and ,england were ruled by 
the same sovereign1 the  continual      
intercourse created by this union caused
 a similarity in  their architecture1 as
 in other arts and customs2 and         
therefore the two  earliest styles of   

architecture run parallel in the two    
countries1 each  furnishing the         
counterpart of the other4 ,whether or   
not the decorated  style was transmitted
 to ,england from the continent1 is a   
question which  cannot be solved1 until 
our collections of continental          
architecture  shall become more         
extensive4 ,after the reign of ,henry   
,v,ith1 our  intercourse with ,normandy 
wholly ceased2 and1 left to ourselves1  
many  innovations were gradually        
introduced1 which were not known to the 
,french architects1 who1 with nicer     
taste1 adhered to the pure style  which 
we rejected4 ,hence arose the           
perpendicular style of pointed          
architecture1 a style sufficiently      
designated by its name1 and obviously   
distinguished from its predecessors1 by 
having the mullions of its  windows1 its
 ornamental pannelling1 and other       
architectural members and  features1    
disposed in perpendicular lines4        
,finally1 however1 both  countries      

discarded the ,gothic style1 though at  
different ras4 ,the  revival of the arts
 in ,europe1 in consequence of the      
capture of  ,constantinople and of the  
greater commercial intercourse between  
transalpine ,europe and ,italy1         
gradually gave rise to an admiration of 
the antique3 imitation naturally        
succeeded admiration2 and buildings     
formed upon the classical model         
generally replaced the ,gothic4 ,italian
  architects found earlier patrons and  
earlier scholars1 in ,france1 than      
amongst us1 our intermediate style being
 chiefly distinguished by its           
clumsiness4    ,i will not detain you by
 any attempt at a comparison between the
  relative beauties of the ,gothic and  
,grecian architecture1 or their         
respective fitness for ecclesiastical   
buildings4 ,the very name of the  former
 seems sufficient to stamp its          
inferiority2 and perhaps you will  blame
 the employment of a term which was     
obviously intended at the  outset as an 

expression of contempt2 but ,i still    
retain the epithet1 as  one generally   
received1 and therefore1 commonly       
understood4 ,it may be  added1 that the 
modern ,french seem to be the only      
,goths1 in the real  and true           
acceptation of the word4 ,they1 to the  
present day1 build ,gothic  churches2   
but1 instead of confining themselves to 
the prototypes left  them1 they are     
eternally aiming at alterations1 under  
the specious name  of improvements4     
,horace was indignant that1 in the      
,augustan age1 the  meed of praise was  
bestowed only upon what was ancient3 the
 architects  of this nation of recent   
date seem under the influence of an     
opposite  apprehension4 ,they build upon
 their favorite poet3--        ,loin    
d'ici ce discours vulgaire       ,que   
l'art pour jamais dgnre1           ,que 
tout s'clipse1 tout finit2       ,la    
nature est inpuisable1       ,et le gnie
 infatigable           ,est le ,dieu qui
 la rajeunit4    ,but they overlook1    

what ,voltaire makes an indispensable   
requisite1 that  art must be under the  
guidance of genius3 when it is not so1  
and caprice  holds the reins1 the result
 cannot fail to be that medley of       
,grecian1  ,norman1 ,gothic1 and        
,gallic1 of which this country furnishes
 too many  examples4    ,the church of  
,st4 ,ouen is unquestionably the noblest
 edifice in the  pointed style in this  
city1 or perhaps in ,france2 the        
,french1 blind as  they usually are to  
the beauties of ,gothic architecture1   
have always  acknowledged its merits4   
,hence it escaped the general           
destruction which  fell upon the        
conventual churches of ,rouen1 at the   
time of the  revolution2 though1 during 
the violence of the storm1 it was       
despoiled  and desecrated4 ,at one      
period1 it was employed as a            
manufactory1 in  which forges were      
placed for making arms2 at another1 as a
 magazine for  forage4    ,nor was this 
the first instance of its being         

violated2 for1 like most of  the        
religious buildings at ,rouen1 it was   
visited in the sixteenth  century with  
the fury of the ,calvinists#ia1 who     
burned the bodies of  ,st4 ,ouen1 ,st4  
,nicaise1 and ,st4 ,remi1 in the midst  
of the temple itself2  and cast their   
ashes to the winds of heaven4 ,the other
 relics treasured  in the church        
experienced equal indignities4 ,all the 
shrines became the  prey of the eager   
avarice of the ,huguenots2 and the      
images of the saints  and martyrs1 torn 
from their tabernacles1 graced the      
gibbets which were  erected to receive  
them in various parts of ,rouen4    ,dom
 ,pommeraye1 in reciting these          
deplorable events1 rises rather above   
his usual pitch of passion3 ,o malheur6 
he exclaims1 ces corps sacrs1  ces      
temples du ,saint ,esprit1 qui avoient  
autrefois donn de la terreur  aux       
,dmons1 ne trouverent ni crainte ni     
respect dans l'esprit de ces  furieux1  
qui jetterent au feu tout ce qui tomba  

entre leurs mains impies  et            
sacrilges6--,the mischief thus          
occasioned was infinitely more to be    
lamented1 he adds1 than the burning of  
the church by the  ,normans2--stones and
 bricks1 and gold and jewels1 may be    
replaced1 but  the loss of a relic is   
irreparable2 and1 moreover1 the abbey   
thus  forfeits a portion of its         
protection in heaven2 for it is not to  
be  doubted1 but that the saints look   
down with eyes of peculiar favor upon   
the spots that contain their mortal     
remains2 their glorified souls  feeling 
a natural affection towards the bodies  
to which they are  hereafter to be      
united for ever1 on that day1 when      
,ciascun ritrovera la trista tomba1     
,ripigliera sua carne e sua figura1     
,udira ci che in eterno rimbomba4       
,the outrages were curiously            
illustrative of the spirit of the times2
 the  quantity of relics and ornaments  
equally characterise the devotion of    
the votaries1 and the reputed sanctity  

of the place4    ,the royal abbey of    
,st4 ,ouen had1 indeed1 enjoyed the     
veneration of the  faithful1 during a   
lengthened series of generations4       
,clothair is  supposed to have been the 
founder of the monastery in #ece2 though
 other  authorities claim for it a still
 higher degree of antiquity by one      
hundred and thirty years4 ,the church1  
whoever the original founder may  have  
been1 was first dedicated to the twelve 
apostles2 but1 in #fhi1 the  body of    
,st4 ,ouen was deposited in the edifice2
 miracles without number  were performed
 at his tomb2 pilgrims flocked thither2 
his fame diffused  itself wider and     
wider2 and at length1 the allegiance of 
the abbey was  tranferred to him whose  
sanctity gave him the best claims to the
  advocation4    ,changes of this       
nature1 and arising from the same cause1
 were frequent  in those early ages3 the
 abbey of ,st4 ,germain des ,prs1 at    
,paris1 was  originally dedicated to    
,st4 ,vincent2 that of ,ste4 ,genevieve 

to ,st4  ,peter2 and many other churches
 also took new patrons1 as occasion     
required4 ,according to one of the      
fathers of the church1 the tombs of  the
 beatified became the fortifications of 
the holy edifices3 the saints  were     
considered as proprietors of the places 
in which their bodies were  interred1   
and where power was given them1 to alter
 the established laws  of nature1 in    
favor of those who there implored their 
aid4 ,but the aid  which they afforded  
willingly to all their suitors1 they    
could not  bestow upon themselves4 ,and 
oft1 when the sword of the heathen      
menaced  the land1 the weary monks fled 
with the corpse of their patrons from   
the  stubborn enemy4 ,thus1 ,st4 ,ouen  
himself1 on the invasion of the         
,normans1  was transported to the priory
 of ,gany1 on the river ,epte1 and      
thence to  ,cond2 but was afterwards    
conveyed to ,rouen1 when ,rollo embraced
  ,christianity4 ,other causes also     
contributed to the migration of these   

remains3 they were often summoned in    
order to dignify acts of peculiar       
solemnity1 or to be the witnesses to the
 oaths of princes1 like the  ,stygian   
marsh of old1        ,dii cujus jurare  
timent et fallere numen4    ,william the
 ,conqueror1 upon the dedication of the 
abbey of ,st4 ,stephen1  collected the  
bodies of all the saints in             
,normandy#ib4    ,those who wish to be  
informed of the acts and deeds of ,st4  
,ouen1 may  refer to ,pommeraye's       
history of the convent1 in which        
thirty-seven folio  pages are filled    
with his life and miracles2 the latter  
commencing while  he was in long        
clothes4 ,the monastery1 under his      
protection1 continued  to increase in   
reputation2 and1 in the year #ajdb1 the 
abbatial mitre  devolved upon ,william1 
son of ,richard ,i,ind1 ,duke of        
,normandy1 who laid  the foundation of a
 new church1 which1 after about eighty  
years1 was  completed and consecrated by
 ,william ,balot1 next but one to him in

 the  succession#ic4    ,but this church
 did not exist long3 ten years only had 
elapsed when a  fire reduced it1        
together with the whole abbey1 to ashes4
 ,an opportunity  was thus afforded to  
the sovereign to shew his munificence1  
and ,richard  ,coeur de ,lion was not   
tardy in availing himself of it2 but a  
second fire  in #abdh again dislodged   
the monks2 and they continued houseless1
 till  the abbot1 ,jean ,rousel1 better 
known by the name of ,mardargent1 laid  
the foundation in #acah1 of the present 
structure1 an honor to himself1  to the 
city1 and to the nation4 ,by this       
prelate the building was  perfected as  
far as the transept3 the rest was the   
work of subsequent  periods1 and was not
 completed till the prelacy of ,bohier1 
who died in  the beginning of the       
sixteenth century4    ,to speak more    
properly1 ,i ought rather to say that it
 was not till then  brought to its      
present state2 for it was never         
completed4 ,the western  front is still 

imperfect4 ,according to the original   
design1 it was to  have been flanked by 
magnificent towers1 ending in a         
combination of open  arches and tracery1
 corresponding with the outline and     
fashion of the  central tower4 ,these   
towers1 which are now only raised to the
 height of  about fifty feet1 jut       
diagonally from the angles of the       
facade2 and it  was intended that1 in   
the lower division1 they should have    
been united  by a porch of three arches1
 somewhat resembling the west entrance  
of  ,peterborough2 and such as in this  
town is still seen1 at ,st4 ,maclou1    
though on a much larger scale4          
,pommeraye has given an engraving of    
this  intended front1 taken from a      
drawing preserved in the archives of the
  abbey4 ,the engraving is miserably    
executed2 but it enables us to          
understand the lines of the projected   
building4 ,pommeraye has also  preserved
 details of other parts of the church1  
among them of the  beautiful rood-loft  

erected by the ,cardinal d',etouteville1
 and long an  object of general         
admiration4 ,the bronze doors of this   
screen were of a  most singular and     
elegant pattern3 ,horace ,walpole       
imitated them in his  bed-room1 at      
,strawberry-,hill4 ,the rood-loft1 which
 had been maimed by  the ,huguenots1 was
 destroyed at the revolution2 when the  
church was also  deprived of its        
celebrated clock1 which told the days of
 the month1 the  festivals1 and the     
phases of the moon1 and afforded other  
astronomical  information4 ,such gazers 
as heeded not these mysteries1 were     
amused by a  little bronze statue of    
,st4 ,michael1 who sallied forth at     
every hour1  and announced the progress 
of time1 by the number of strokes which 
he  inflicted on the ,devil with his    
lance4    ,illustration3 ,tower of the  
,church of ,st4 ,ouen1 at ,rouen    ,it 
is impossible to convey by words an     
adequate idea of the lightness1  and    
purity1 and boldness of ,st4 ,ouen4 ,my 

imperfect description will be  assisted 
by the sketches which ,i inclose4 ,of   
their merits ,i dare not  speak2 but ,i 
will warrant their fidelity2 ,the flying
 buttresses end in  richly crocketed    
pinnacles1 supported by shafts of       
unusual height4 ,the  triple tiers of   
windows seem to have absorbed the solid 
wall-work of the  building4 ,balustrades
 of varied quatrefoils run round the    
aisles and  body2 and the centre-tower1 
which is wholly composed of open arches 
and  tracery1 terminates1 like the      
south-tower of the cathedral1 with an   
octangular crown of fleurs-de-lys4 ,the 
armorial symbol of ,france1 which  in   
itself is a form of great beauty1 was   
often introduced by the ,french         
architects of the middle ages1 amongst  
the ornaments of their edifices3  it    
pleases the eye by its grace1 and       
satisfies the mind by its  appropriate  
and natural locality4    ,the elegance  
of the south porch is unrivalled4 ,this 
portion of the  church was always       

finished with care3 it was the scene of 
many religious  ceremonies1 particularly
 of espousals4 ,hence they gave it a    
degree of  magnitude which might appear 
disproportionate1 did we not recollect  
that the arch was destined to embower   
the bride and the bridal train4  ,the   
bold and lofty entrance of this porch is
 surrounded within by  pendant trefoil  
arches1 springing from carved bosses1   
and forming an  open festoon of tracery4
 ,the vault within is ornamented with   
pendants1  and the portal which it      
shades is covered with a profusion of   
sculpture3  the death1 entombment1 and  
apotheosis of the ,virgin1 form the     
subjects  of the principal groups4 ,the 
sculptures1 both in design and          
execution1  far surpass any specimens of
 the corresponding ra in ,england4 ,but 
this  porch is now neglected and filled 
with lumber1 and the open tracery is    
much injured4 ,i hope1 however1 it will 
receive due attention2 as the  church is
 at this time under repair2 and the     

restorations1 as far as  they go1 have  
been executed with fidelity and         
judgment4    ,illustration3 ,south      
,porch the ,church of ,st4 ,ouen1 at    
,rouen    ,the perspective of the       
interior#id is exceedingly impressive3  
the  arches are of great height and fine
 proportions4 ,if ,i must discover a    
defect1 ,i should say that the lines    
appear to want substance2 the  mouldings
 of the arches are shallow4 ,the        
building is all window4 ,were  it made  
of cast iron1 it could scarcely look    
less solid4 ,this effect is             
particularly increased by the           
circumstance of the clerestory-gallery  
opening into the glazed tracery of the  
windows behind1 the lines of the  one   
corresponding with those of the other4  
,to each of the clustered  columns of   
the nave is attached a tabernacle1      
consisting of a canopy and  pedestal1   
evidently intended originally to have   
received the image of a  saint4 ,it does
 not appear to have been the design of  

the architect that  the pillars of the  
choir should have had similar ornaments2
 but upon one  of them1 at about        
mid-height1 serving as a corbel to a    
truncated column1  is a head of our     
,saviour1 and1 on the opposite pillar1  
one of the  ,virgin3 the former is of a 
remarkably fine antique character4 ,the 
capitals of the pillars in this part of 
the church were all gilt1 and  the      
spandrils of the arches painted with    
angels1 now nearly effaced4 ,the  high  
altar is of grey marble1 relieved1 by a 
scarlet curtain behind1 the  effect of  
which is simple1 singular1 and good4    
,round the choir is a row  of chapels1  
which are wholly wanting to the nave4   
,the walls of these  chapels have also  
been covered with fresco paintings2 some
 with figures1  others with foliage4    
,the chapels contain many grave-stones  
displaying  indented outlines of figures
 under canopies1 and in other respects  
ornamented2 but neglected1 and greatly  
obliterated1 and hastening fast  to     

ruin4 ,it is curious to see the heads   
and hands1 and1 in one instance1  the   
crosier of a prelate1 inlaid with white 
or grey marble2 as if the  parts of most
 importance were purposely made of the  
most perishable  materials4 ,i was much 
interested by observing1 that many of   
these  memorials are almost the exact   
counterparts of some of our richest     
,english sepulchral brasses1 and        
particularly of the two which are       
perhaps unrivalled1 at ,lynn#ie4--;,how 
,i wished that you1 who so delight  in  
these remains1 and to whom we are       
indebted for the elucidation of  those  
of ,norfolk1 had been with me1 while ,i 
was trying to trace the  resemblance2   
and particularly while ,i pored over the
 stone in the chapel  of ,saint ,agnes1 
that commemorates ,alexander ,berneval1 
the master-mason  of the building6      
,illustration3 ,head of ,christ1 in the 
,church of ,st4 ,ouen1 at ,rouen1 seen  
in profile  ,illustration3 ,head of     
,christ1 in the ,church of ,st4 ,ouen1  

at ,rouen1 seen in front    ,according  
to tradition1 it was this same          
,alexander ,berneval who executed  the  
beautiful circular window in the        
southern transept4 ,but being  rivalled 
by his apprentice1 who produced a more  
exquisite specimen of  masonry in the   
northern transept1 he murdered his      
luckless pupil4 ,the  crime he expiated 
with his own life2 but the monks of the 
abbey1  grateful for his labors1        
requested that his body might be        
entombed in  their church2 and on the   
stone that covers his remains1 they     
caused him  to be represented at full   
length1 holding the window in his hand4 
,these large circular windows1 sometimes
 known by the name of rose  windows1 and
 sometimes of marigold windows1 are a   
strong characteristic  feature of       
,french ecclesiastical architecture4    
,few among the cathedrals  or the great 
conventual churches1 in this country1   
are without them4 ,in  our own they are 
seldom found3 in no one of our          

cathedrals1 excepting  ,exeter only1 are
 they in the western front2 and1 though 
occasionally in  the transepts1 as at   
,canterbury1 ,chichester1 ,litchfield1  
,westminster1  ,lincoln and ,york1 they 
are comparatively of small size with    
little  variety of pattern4 ,in ,st4    
,ouen1 they are more than commonly      
beautiful4  ,the northern one1 the cause
 of death to the poor apprentice1       
exhibits in  its centre the produced    
pentagon1 or combination of triangles   
sometimes  called the pentalpha4--,the  
painted glass which fills the rose      
windows is  gorgeous in its coloring1   
and gives the most splendid effect4 ,the
 church  preserves the whole of its     
original glazing4 ,each inter-mullion   
contains  one whole-length figure1      
standing upon a diapered ground1 good in
  design1 though the artist seems to    
have avoided the employment of          
brilliant hues4 ,the sober light        
harmonizes with the grey unsullied      
stone-work1 and gives a most pleasing   

unity of tint to the receding  arches4  
,among the pictures1 the-best are1 the  
,cardinal of ,bologna opening the  ,holy
 ,gate1 instead of the ,pope1 in the    
nave2 and ,saint ,elizabeth  stopping   
the ,pestilence1 in the choir3 two      
others1 in the ,lady-,chapel1  by an    
artist of ,rouen1 of the name of        
,deshays1 the ,miracle of the  ,loaves1 
and the ,visitation1 are also of        
considerable merit4--,deshays  was a    
young man of great promise2 but the     
hopes which had been  entertained of him
 were disappointed by a premature death4
    ,a church like this1 so ancient1 so 
renowned1 and so holy1 could not fail   
to enjoy peculiar privileges4 ,the abbot
 had complete jurisdiction1 as  well    
temporal as spiritual1 over the parish  
of ,st4 ,ouen2 in the ,norman           
parliament he took precedence of all    
other mitred abbots2 by a bull of  ,pope
 ,alexander ,i,vth1 he was allowed to   
wear the pontifical ornaments1  mitre1  
ring1 gloves1 tunic1 dalmatic1 and      

sandals2 and1 what sounds  strange to   
our ,protestant ears1 he had the right  
of preaching in public1  and of causing 
the conventual bells to be rung whenever
 he thought  proper4 ,his monks headed  
the religious processions of the city2  
and  every new archbishop of the        
province was not only consecrated in    
this  church1 but slept the evening     
prior to his installation at the abbey2 
whence1 on the following day1 he was    
conducted in pomp to the entrance  of   
the cathedral1 by the chapter of ,st4   
,ouen1 headed by their abbot1 who       
delivered him to the canons1 with the   
following charge1--,ego1 ,prior  ,sancti
 ,audoeni1 trado vobis ,dominum         
,archiepiscopum ,rothomagensem vivum1   
quem reddetis nobis mortuum4--,the last 
sentence was also strictly  fulfilled2  
the dean and chapter being bound to take
 the bodies of the  deceased prelates to
 the church of ,st4 ,ouen1 and restore  
them to the  monks with1 ,vos           
tradidistis nobis ,dominum              

,archiepiscopum vivum2 nos  reddimus eum
 vobis mortuum1 ita ut crastin die      
reddatis eum  nobis4--,the corpse       
remained there four and twenty hours1   
during which  the monks performed the   
office of the dead with great solemnity4
 ,the  canons were then compelled to    
bear the dead archbishop a second time  
from the abbey cross 7now demolished7 to
 the abbey of ,st4 ,amand#if1  where the
 abbess took the pastoral ring from off 
his finger1 replacing  it by another of 
plain gold2 and thence the bearers      
proceeded to the  cathedral4 ,these     
duties could not be very agreeable to   
portly1  short-winded1 well-fed         
dignitaries2 and consequently the worthy
 canons  were often inclined to shrink  
from the task4 ,in the case of the      
funeral  of ,archbishop d',aubigny1 in  
#agai1 they contented themselves with   
carrying him at once to his dormitory2  
but the prior and monks of ,st4  ,ouen  
instantly sued them before the          
parliament1 and this tribunal  decreed  

that the ancient service must be        
performed1 and in default of            
compliance1 the whole of their          
temporalities were to be put under      
sequestration3 it is almost needless to 
add1 that a sentence of  excommunication
 would scarcely have been so effectual  
in enforcing the  execution of the      
sentence4    ,the gardens formerly      
belonging to the abbey are at this time 
a pleasant  promenade to the inhabitants
 of the town3 the remains of the        
monastic  buildings are converted into  
an ,htel de ,ville1 where also the      
library  and the museum are kept1 and   
the academy hold their sittings4 ,no    
remains1 however1 now exist of the      
abbatial residence1 which was built  by 
,anthony ,bohier1 in the beginning of   
the sixteenth century1 and which1       
according to the engraving given of it  
by ,pommeraye1 must have been a  noble  
specimen of domestic architecture4 ,the 
sovereigns of ,france always  took up   
their abode in it1 during their visits  

to ,rouen4--,the circular  tower called 
the ,tour des ,clercs1 mentioned in a   
former letter1 is the  only vestige of  
,norman times4--,the cloister           
corresponded with the  architecture of  
the church3 the south side of the       
quadrangle attached  to the northern    
aisle still exists1 but blocked up and  
dilapidated1 and  converted into a sort 
of cage for those who are guilty of     
disturbances  during the night4         
,illustration3 ,stone ,staircase in the 
,church of ,st4 ,maclou1 at ,rouen      
,the church of ,st4 ,maclou is          
unquestionably superior to every other  
in  the city1 except the cathedral and  
,st4 ,ouen4 ,its principal ornament are 
its carved doors1 produced during the   
reign of ,henry ,i,i,ird1 by ,jean      
,goujon1 a man so eminent as to have    
been termed the ,corregio of  sculpture2
 but they have been materially injured  
by repairs and  alterations by unskilful
 hands4 ,within the church1 near the    
west  entrance1 is a singularly elegant 

stair-case1 in filagree stone-work1     
which formerly led to the organ4--,this 
building was erected in the year  #aeab1
 and chiefly by voluntary contributions1
 if such can be called  voluntary as    
were purchased by promises from the     
archbishop1 first of  forty1 and then of
 one hundred1 days' indulgences1 to all 
who would  contribute towards the pious 
labor4--,the central tower resembles    
that of  the cathedral1 both in the     
interior and the exterior4 ,it now      
appears  truncated2 but it was          
originally surmounted by a spire1 which 
was of  such beauty1 that even ,italian 
artists thought it worthy to be engraved
  and held out as a model at ,rome#ig4  
,the spire1 however1 was greatly        
injured by a hurricane1 in #agje1 and it
 was at last taken down thirty  years   
afterwards4 ,to the triple porch1 ,i    
have already alluded1 in  describing the
 intended front of ,st4 ,ouen4 ,the     
general lines of the  church1 are such  
as in ,england would be referred to the 

fourteenth  century3 on a closer        
examination1 however1 the curious eye   
will  discover the peculiar beauties of 
the ,french ,gothic4 ,thus the bosses of
  the groined roof are wrought and      
perforated into filagree1 the work      
extending over the intersections of the 
groins1 which are seen through  its     
reticulations4 ,such bosses are only    
found in the ,french churches of  the   
sixteenth century4 ,in other parts1 the 
interior closely resembles  the style of
 the cathedral#ih4    ,st4 ,patrice is a
 building of the worst style of the     
commencement of the  sixteenth century3 
to use the quaint phraseology of ,horace
 ,walpole1 it  exhibits that betweenity 
which intervened when ,gothic declined  
and  ,palladian was creeping in4 ,the   
paintings on the walls of this church1  
and the stained glass in its windows1   
are more deserving of notice than  its  
architecture4 ,the first are of small   
size1 and generally better than  are    
seen in similar places4 ,one of them is 

after ,bassan1 an artist1  whose works  
are not often found in religious        
edifices in ,france4 ,the  painted      
windows of the choir deserve unqualified
 commendation4 ,they are  said to have  
been removed from ,st4 ,godard4 ,each is
 confined to a single  subject2 among   
which1 that of the ,annunciation is     
esteemed the best4    ,to this church   
was attached a confraternity#ii1        
established in #acgd1  under the name of
 the ,guild of the ,passion4 ,its annual
 procession1  which continued till the  
time of the revolution1 took place on   
,holy-,thursday4 ,it consisted of the   
usual pageantry2 a host of children1    
dressed like angels1 increased the      
train1 which also included twelve  poor 
men1 whose feet the masters of the      
brotherhood publicly washed  after mass4
 ,like some other guilds1 they were in  
possession of a pulpit  or tribune1     
called1 in old ,french1 a ,puy1 from    
which they issued a  general invitation 
to all poets1 who were summoned to      

descant upon the  themes which were     
commemorated by their union4 ,the       
rewards held out to  the successful     
candidates were1 in the true monastic   
spirit of the  guild1 a reed1 a crown of
 thorns1 a sponge1 or some other mystic 
or  devotional emblem4 ,occasionally1   
too1 they gave a scenic representation  
of certain portions of religious        
history1 according to the practice of   
early times4 ,the account of the        
,mystery of the ,passion having been    
acted in the burial-ground of the church
 of ,st4 ,patrice1 so recently as       
,september1 #adih1 is preserved by      
,taillepied#ajj1 who tells us1 that it  
was performed by bons joueurs et braves 
personages4 ,the masters of  this guild 
had the extraordinary privilege of being
 allowed to charge  the expence         
attendant on the processions and        
exhibitions1 upon any  citizen they     
might think proper1 whether a member or 
otherwise4    ,the neighboring church of
 ,st4 ,godard possesses neither         

architectural  beauty1 nor architectural
 antiquity2 for1 although it occupies   
the scite  of an edifice of remote date1
 yet the present structure is coeval    
with  ,st4 ,patrice4 ,it has been       
supposed that this church was the       
primitive  cathedral of the city#aja4   
,one of the proofs of this assertion is 
found  in a procession which1 before the
 revolution1 was annually made hither   
by the chapter of the present cathedral1
 with great ceremony1 as if in          
recognition of its priority4 ,the church
 was originally dedicated to the        
,virgin2 but it changed its advocation  
in the year #ebe1 when ,st4 ,godard1    
more properly called ,st4 ,gildard1 was 
buried here in a subterranean  chapel2  
and1 for the reasons before noticed1 the
 old tutelary patroness  was compelled  
to yield to the new visitor4 ,in the    
succeeding century1  ,st4 ,romain1 a    
saint of still greater fame1 was also   
interred here2 and1  as ,i collect from 
,pommeraye#ajb1 in the same crypt4 ,this

 author  strenuously denies the         
inferences which have been drawn from   
the annual  procession1 which he        
maintains was performed solely in praise
 and in  honor of ,st4 ,romain2 for the 
chapter1 after having paid their        
devotions  to the ,host1 descended into 
the chapel1 to prostrate themselves     
before  the sepulture of the saint2 on  
which subject1 an antiquary#ajc of      
,rouen  has preserved the following     
lines3--        ,ad regnum ,domini dextr
 invitatus et ore1         ,huic sacra  
,romanus credidit ossa loco2            
,sontibus addixit qu cca rebellio       
flammis1         ,nec tulit impietas    
majus in urbe scelus4       ,quid tanto 
vesana malo profecit ,erynnis8          
,ipsa sui testis pignoris extat humus4  
,crypta manet1 memoresque trahit        
confessio cives1         ,nec populi    
fallit marmor inane fidem4              
,orphana1 turba1 veni1 viduisque        
allabere saxis1         ,est aliquid    
soboli patris habere thorum4    ,the    

body of ,st4 ,godard was carried to     
,soissons2 but the tomb1 which1 has     
doubtfully been designated as           
appropriated either to him or to ,st4   
,romain1 was left to the church1 and    
remained there at least till the        
revolution4 ,i have even been told that 
it is there still2 but ,i had no        
opportunity of going down into the      
chapel to verify this point4 ,it        
consisted1 or rather consists1 of a     
single slab of jasper1 seven and a  half
 feet long1 by two feet wide1 and two   
feet four inches thick4 ,upon  it was   
this inscription3--        ,malades1    
voulez-vous soulager vos douleurs8      
,visitez ce tombeau1 baignez-le de vos  
pleurs2       ,rechauffez vos esprits   
d'une divine flame2       ,touchez-le   
settlement du doigt1       ,et vous y   
trouverez 7si vous avez la foi7         
,et la sant du corps1 et la sant de     
l'ame4    ,the building retains1 at this
 time1 only two of its celebrated       
painted  windows2 but they are          

fortunately the two which were always   
considered  the best4 ,one of them      
represents the history of ,st4 ,romain2 
the other1  the genealogy of ,jewish    
kings1 from whom the ,holy ,virgin      
descended4  ,rouen has1 from a very     
early period1 been famous for its       
manufactories  of painted glass4 ,but   
the windows of this church were still   
esteemed the  chef d'oeuvre of its      
artists2 and these had so far passed    
into a  proverb1 that ,farin#ajd tells  
us it was common throughout ,france to  
say1 in recommendation of choice wine1  
that it was as bright as the  windows of
 ,st4 ,godard4 ,the saying1 however1 was
 by no means confined to  ,rouen1 for it
 was also applied to the windows of the 
,ste4 ,chapelle1 at  ,dijon4    ,it was 
at ,st4 ,godard that the burst of the   
reformation was first  manifested4 ,the 
,huguenots1 taking courage from the     
secret increase of  their numbers1 broke
 into the building1 in #aedj1 demolished
 the images1  and sold the pix to a     

goldsmith4 ,but the man suffered        
severely for his  purchase3 he was      
shortly afterwards sentenced1 by a      
decree of the  parliament1 to be hanged 
in front of his shop2 and two of those  
concerned in the outrage also suffered  
capital punishment4 ,the spark  thus    
lighted1 afterwards increased into a    
conflagration2 and1 to this  hour1 there
 is a larger body of ,protestants at    
,rouen1 than in most  ,french towns4    
,i do not expect that you will reproach 
me with the prolixity of these  details4
 ,the subject is attractive to me1 and  
,i feel that you will  accompany me with
 pleasure in my pilgrimage1 from chapel 
to shrine1  dwelling with me in         
contemplation on the relics of ancient  
skill and the  memorials of the piety of
 the departed4 ,nor must it be          
forgotten1 that  the hand of the        
spoliator is falling heavily on all     
objects of  antiquity4 ,and the ,french 
seem to find a source of perverse and   
malignant pleasure in destroying the    

temples where their ancestors once      
worshipped3 many are swept away2 a      
greater number continue to exist in  a  
desecrated state2 and time1 which       
changes all things1 is proceeding  with 
hasty strides to obliterate their       
character4 ,the lofty steeple  hides its
 diminished head2 the mullions and      
tracery disappear from the  pointed     
windows1 from which the stained glass   
has long since fallen2 the  arched      
entrance contracts into a modern        
door-way2 the smooth plain walls  betray
 neither niches1 nor pinnacles1 nor     
fresco paintings2 and in the  warehouse1
 or manufactory1 or smithy1 little else 
remains than the  extraordinary size1 to
 point out the original holy destination
 of the  edifice4    ,footnotes3    #ia 
,the following brief statement of their 
excesses is copied from a  manuscript   
belonging to the monastery3 the full    
detail of them engages  ,pommeraye for  
nearly seven folio pages3--,le ,dimanche
 troisime de ,may1  #aefb1 les          

,huguenots s'tans amassez en grosse     
troupe1 vinrent armez en  grande furie  
dans l',eglise de ,s4 ,ouen1 o tant     
entrez ils rompirent les  chaires du    
choeur1 le grand autel1 et toutes les   
chapelles3 mirent en  pieces l',horloge1
 dont on voit encore la menuiserie dans 
la chapelle  joignant l'arcade du cost  
du septentrion1 aussi bien que celles   
des  orgues1 dont ils prirent l'taim et 
le plomb pour en faire des balles de    
mousquet3 puis ils allumerent cinq feux1
 trois dedans l',eglise et deux  dehors1
 o ils brlerent tous les bancs et sieges
 des religieux1 auec le  bois des       
balustres des chapelles1 les bancs et   
fermetures d'icelles1  plusieurs        
ornemens et vestemens sacrez1 comme     
chappes1 tuniques1  chasubles1 aubes1   
vne autre partie des plus riches et     
precieux ornemens  de broderie et drap  
d'or ayant est enleve en l'htellerie de 
la pomme  de pin1 o ils les brlerent    
pour en auoir l'or et l'argent4 ,ils    
firent  la mesme chose des saintes      

reliques1 qu'ils brlerent1 ayant emport 
l'or1 l'argent1 et les pierreries des   
reliquaires4--,histoire de  l',abbaye   
,royale de ,st4 ,ouen1 p4 #bje4    #ib  
,farin1 ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,,iv4 p4   
#acd4    #ic ,histoire de l',abbaye     
,royales de ,saint ,ouen1 p4 #bjd4      
#id ,the following are the dimensions of
 the interior of the building1  in      
,french feet3        ,length of the     
church444444444444444444 #daf           
,ditto of the nave444444444444444444444 
#bcd      ,ditto of the                 
choir44444444444444444444 #ajh          
,ditto of the                           
,lady-,chapel44444444444444 #ff         
,ditto of the transept44444444444444444 
#acj      ,width of                     
ditto444444444444444444444444 #cd       
,ditto of nave1 without the aisles44444 
#cd      ,ditto1 including              
ditto4444444444444444 #gh      ,height  
of roof444444444444444444444444 #ajj    
,ditto of tower444444444444444444444444 
#bdj    #ie ,figured in ,cotmans        

,norfolk ,sepulchral ,brasses4    #if   
,the house of the abbess of ,st4 ,amand 
is still standing1 though  neglected1   
and in a great degree in ruins4 ,what   
remains1 however1 is  very curious2 and 
is1 perhaps1 the oldest specimen of     
domestic  architecture in ,rouen4 ,it is
 partly of wood1 the front covered with 
arches and other sculpture in           
bas-relief1 and partly of stone4    #ig 
,farin1 ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,,iv4 p4   
#aef4    #ih ,the dimensions of the     
building1 in ,french feet1 are1--       
,length of the nave44444444444444444444 
#gj      ,ditto of                      
choir444444444444444444444444 #dj       
,ditto of                               
,lady-,chapel444444444444444444 #cj     
,ditto of the whole building4444444444  
#adj      ,width of                     
ditto444444444444444444444444 #gf       
,height to the top of the lanthorn4444  
#adb    #ii ,farin1 ,histoire de ,rouen1
 ,,iv4 p4 #afh4    #ajj ,antiquitz et   
,singularitz de la ,ville de ,rouen1 p4 

#ahf4    #aja ,farin1 ,histoire de      
,rouen1 ,,iv4 p4 #acb4    #ajb ,histoire
 des ,archevques de ,rouen1 p4 #acj4    
#ajc ,la ,normandie ,chrtienne1 p4 #dhg4
    #ajd ,histoire de ,rouen1 ,,iv4 p4  
#acd4          ,,letter ,,xii4          
,,palais ,,de ,,justice--,,states1      
,,exchequer1 ,,and ,,parliament ,,of    
,,normandy--,,guild  ,,of ,,the         
,,conards--,,joan ,,of ,,arc--,,fountain
 ,,and ,,bas-,,relief ,,in ,,the ,,place
 ,,de ,,la  ,,pucelle--,,tour ,,de ,,la 
,,grosse ,,horloge--,,public            
,,fountains--,,rivers ,,aubette ,,and   
,,robec--,,hospitals--,,mint4           
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,amongst the 
secular buildings of ,rouen1 the ,palais
 de ,justice holds the  chief place1    
whether we consider the magnificence of 
the building1 or  the importance of the 
assemblies which once were convened     
within its  precinct4    ,the three     
estates of the ,duchy of ,normandy1 the 
parliament1 composed of  the deputies of
 the church1 the nobility1 and the good 

towns1 usually  held their meetings in  
the ,palace of ,justice4 ,until the     
liberties of  ,france were wholly       
extirpated by ,richelieu1 this body     
opposed a  formidable resistance to the 
crown2 and the ,charte ,normande was    
considered as great a safeguard to the  
liberties of the subject1 as  ,magna    
,charta used to be on your side of the  
channel4 ,here1 also1 the  ,court of    
,exchequer held its session4 ,according 
to a fond tradition1  this1 the supreme 
tribunal of ,normandy1 was instituted by
 ,rollo1 the  good ,duke1 whose very    
name seemed to be considered as a charm 
averting  violence and outrage4 ,this   
court1 like our ,aula ,regia1 long      
continued  ambulatory1 and attendant    
upon the person of the sovereign2 and   
its  sessions were held occasionally1   
and at his pleasure4 ,the progress of   
society1 however1 required that the     
supreme tribunal should become          
stationary and permanent1 that the      
suitors might know when and where  they 

might prefer their claims4 ,philip the  
,fair1 therefore1 about the  year #acjj1
 began by enacting that the pleas should
 be held only at  ,rouen4 ,louis the    
,x,i,ith remodelled the court1 and gave 
it permanence2  yielding in these       
measures to the prayer of the ,states of
 ,normandy1 and  to the advice of his   
minister1 the ,cardinal d',amboise4 ,it 
was then  composed of four presidents1  
and twenty-eight counsellors2 thirteen  
being clerks2 and the remainder laymen4 
,the name of exchequer was  perhaps     
unpleasing to the crown1 as it reminded 
the ,normans of the  ancient            
independence of their duchy2 and1 in    
#aeae1 ,francis ,ist ordered  that the  
court should thenceforward be known as  
the ,parliament of  ,normandy2 thus     
assimilating it in its appellation to   
the other supreme  tribunals of the     
kingdom4 ,there is an old poem extant1  
written in very  lawyer-like rhyme1     
which invests all the cardinal virtues1 
and a great  many supernumerary ones    

besides1 with the offices of this most  
honorable  court1 in which purity is the
 usher1 truth has a silk gown1 and      
virginity enters the proceedings on the 
record4        ,de ceste court grace est
 grand chanceliere1       ,vertus ont   
lieu de prsidens prudens3       ,vrit   
est premire conseillere1       ,et puret
 huyssire l-dedans3       ,la greffire  
est virginit fconde1       ,et la       
concierge humilit profonde4       ,pythi
 procure a vuider les discords1         
,comme advocat1 amour ayde aux accords4 
,de geolier vacque le seul office3      
,aussy on voyt par officiers concors1   
,la noble court rendante  tous justice4 
,in the same style and strain is a      
ballad1 which1 thanks to the care of    
,de ,bourgueville1 the author of the    
,antiquities of ,caen1 hath been        
preserved for the edification of        
posterity4 ,it enumerates all the       
members of the court seriatim1 and      
compares their lordships and  worships1 
one after another1 to the heroes and    

demi-gods of ancient  story4    ,the    
parliament in its turn has given way to 
the ,court of ,assizes2 and1  where the 
states once deliberated1 the electors of
 the department now  come together for  
the purpose of naming the deputies who  
represent them  in the great council of 
the nation2--such are the vicissitudes  
of all  human institutions4    ,when the
 ,jews were expelled from ,normandy1 in 
#aaha1 the ,close1 or  ,jewry1 in which 
they dwelled1 escheated to the king4    
,the sons of ,japhet  spoiled the sons  
of ,shem with pious alacrity4 ,the      
debtor burnt his bond2  the bailie      
seized the store of bezants2 the        
synagogue was razed to the  ground4 ,in 
this ,close the palace was afterwards   
built4 ,the wise custom  of ,normandy   
was mooted on the spot where the law of 
,moses had once been  taught2 and1 by a 
strange1 perhaps an ominous1 fatality1  
the judge held  the scales of justice1  
where whilome the usurer had poised his 
balance4    ,the palace forms three     

sides of a quadrangle4 ,the fourth is   
occupied by  an embattled wall and an   
elaborate gate-way4 ,the building was   
erected  about the beginning of the     
sixteenth century2 and1 with all its    
faults1  it is a fine adaptation of     
,gothic architecture to civil purposes4 
,it is  in the style which a friend of  
mine chooses to distinguish by the name 
of ,burgundian architecture2 and he     
tells me that he considers it as  the   
parent of our ,tudor style4 ,here1 the  
windows in the body of the  building    
take flattened elliptic heads2 and they 
are divided by one  mullion and one     
transom4 ,the mouldings are highly      
wrought1 and enriched  with foliage4    
,the lucarne windows are of a different 
design1 and form  the most              
characteristic feature of the front3    
they are pointed and  enriched with     
mullions and tracery1 and are placed    
within triple  canopies of nearly the   
same form1 flanked by square pillars1   
terminating  in tall crocketed          

pinnacles1 some of them fronted with    
open arches  crowned with statues4 ,the 
roof1 as is usual in ,french and        
,flemish  buildings of this date1 is of 
a very high pitch1 and harmonizes well  
with the proportions of the building4   
,an oriel1 or rather tower1 of  enriched
 workmanship projects into the court1   
and varies the elevations4  ,on the     
left-hand side of the court1 a wide     
flight of steps leads to the  hall      
called la ,salle des ,procureurs1 a     
place originally designed as an         
,exchange for the merchants of the city1
 who had previously been in the  habit  
of assembling for that purpose in the   
cathedral4 ,it is one hundred  and sixty
 feet in length1 by fifty in breadth4   
,in this great hall1 says ,peter        
,heylin1 are the seats and desks of the 
procurators2 every one's name written in
 capital letters over his head4  ,these 
procurators are like our attornies2 they
 prepare causes1 and make  them ready   
for the advocates4 ,in this hall do     

suitors use1 either to  attend on1 or to
 walk up and down1 and confer with1     
their  pleaders4--,the attornies had    
similar seats in the ancient ,english   
courts of justice2 and these seats still
 remain in the hall at  ,westminster1 in
 which the ,court of ,exchequer holds   
its sittings4 ,the  walls of the ,salle 
des ,procureurs are adorned with chaste 
niches4 ,the  coved roof is of timber1  
plain and bold1 and destitute either of 
the  open tie-beams and arches1 or the  
knot-work and cross timber which adorn  
our old ,english roofs4 ,if the roof of 
our priory church was not  ornamented1  
as last mentioned1 it would nearly      
resemble that in  question4--,below the 
hall is a prison2 to its right is the   
room where  the parliament formerly held
 its sittings1 but which is now         
appropriated  to the trial of criminal  
causes4 ,the unfortunate ,mathurin      
,bruneau1 the  soi-disant dauphin1 was  
last year tried here1 and condemned to  
imprisonment4 ,he is treated in his     

place of confinement with ambiguous     
kindness4 ,the poor wretch loves his    
bottle2 and1 being allowed to           
intoxicate himself to his heart's       
content1 he is already reduced to a     
state of idiotism4--,heylin1 who saw the
 building when it was in  perfection1   
says1 speaking of this ,great ,chamber1 
that it is so  gallantly and richly     
built1 that ,i must needs confess it    
surpasseth all  the rooms that ever ,i  
saw in my life4 ,the palace of the      
,louvre hath  nothing in it comparable2 
the ceiling is all inlaid with gold1 yet
 doth  the workmanship exceed the       
matter4--,the ceiling which excited     
,heylin's  admiration still exists4 ,it 
is a grand specimen of the interior     
decoration of the times4 ,the oak1 which
 age has rendered almost as dark  as    
ebony1 is divided into compartments1    
covered with rich but whimsical         
carving1 and relieved with abundance of 
gold4 ,over the bench is a  curious old 
picture1 a ,crucifixion4 ,joseph and the

 ,virgin are standing  by the cross3 the
 figures are painted on a gold ground2  
the colors deep  and rich2 the drawing1 
particularly in the arms1 indifferent2  
the  expression of the faces good4 ,it  
was upon this picture that witnesses    
took the oaths before the revolution2   
and it is the only one of the six       
formerly in this situation that escaped 
destruction#aje4 ,round the  apartment  
are gnomic sentences in letters of gold1
 reminding judges1  juries1 witnesses1  
and suitors1 of their duties4 ,the room 
itself is said  to be the most beautiful
 in ,france for its proportions and     
quantity of  light4 ,in the ,antiquits  
,nationales1 is described and figured an
  elaborately wrought chimney-piece in  
the council-chamber1 now destroyed1  as 
are some fine ,gothic door-ways1 which  
opened into the chamber4 ,the  ceiling  
of the apartment called la seconde      
,chambre des ,enqutes1  painted by      
,jouvenet1 with a representation of     
,jupiter hurling his  thunderbolts at   

,vice1 is also unfortunately no more4   
,it fell in1 from a  failure in the     
woodwork of the roof1 on the first of   
,april1 #ahab4 ,it was  among the most  
highly-esteemed productions of this     
master1 and not the  less remarkable for
 having been executed with the left     
hand1 after a  paralytic stroke had     
deprived him of the use of the other4   
,millin observes1 with much justice1    
that one of the most remarkable of  the 
decrees that issued from this palace1   
was that which authorized the  meetings 
of the ,conards1 a name given to a      
confraternity of buffoons1  who1        
disguised in grotesque dresses1         
performed farces in the streets on      
,shrove ,tuesday and other holidays4    
,nor is it a little indicative of the   
taste of the times1 that men of rank1   
character1 and respectability  entered  
into this society1 the members of which1
 amounting to two  thousand five        
hundred1 elected from among themselves a
 president1 whom  they dressed as an    

abbot#ajf1 with a crozier and mitre1    
and1 placing  him on a car drawn by four
 horses1 led him1 thus attired1 in great
 pomp  through the streets2 the whole of
 the party being masked1 and            
personating not only the allegorical    
characters of avarice1 lust1 c4  but the
 more tangible ones of pope1 king1 and  
emperor1 and with them  those of holy   
writ4 ,the seat of this guild was at    
,notre ,dame de ,bonnes  ,nouvelles4    
,illustration3 ,sculpture1 representing 
the ,feast of ,fools    ,in the         
cathedral itself the more notorious     
,procession des ,fous was  also formerly
 celebrated1 in which1 as you know1 the 
ass played the  principal part1 and the 
choir joined in the hymn#ajg1--         
,orientis partibus       ,adventavit    
,asinus1 c4    ,these1 or similar       
ceremonies1 call them if you please     
absurdities1 or  call them impieties1   
7you will in neither case be far from   
their proper  name17 were in the early  
ages of ,christianity tolerated in      

almost every  place4 ,mr4 ,douce has    
furnished us with some curious remarks  
upon them in  the eleventh volume of the
 ,archaeologia1 and ,mr4 ,ellis in his  
new  edition of ,brand's ,popular       
,antiquities4 ,i am indebted to the     
first of  these gentlemen for the       
knowledge that the inclosed etching1    
copied some  time ago from a drawing by 
,mr4 ,joseph ,harding1 is allusive to   
the  ceremony of the feast of fools1 and
 does not represent a group of          
morris-dancers1 as ,i had erroneously   
supposed4 ,indeed1 ,mr4 ,douce  believes
 that many of the strange carvings on   
the misereres in our  cathedrals have   
references to these practices4 ,and yet1
 to the honor of  ,england1 they never  
appear to have been equally common with 
us as in  ,france4--,according to ,du   
,cange#ajh1 the confraternity of the    
,conards or  ,cornards was confined to  
,rouen and ,evreux4 ,i have not been    
able to  ascertain when they were       
suppressed2 but they certainly existed  

in the  time of ,taillepied1 in the     
beginning of the seventeenth century1   
about  fifty years previously to which  
they dropped their original name of     
,coqueluchers4 ,at this time too they   
had evidently degenerated from the      
primary object of their institution1    
ridendo castigare mores atque in  omne  
quod turpitr factum fuerat ridiculum    
immittere4 ,taillepied was  an          
eye-witness of their practices2 and he  
prudently contents himself  with saying2
 le fait est plus clair  le voir que je 
ne pourrois icy  l'escrire4    ,at a    
short distance from the palace is a     
small square1 called the ,place  de la  
,pucelle1 a name which it has but       
recently acquired1 in lieu of  the more 
familiar appellation of le ,march aux   
,veaux4 ,the present  title records one 
of the most interesting events in the   
history of  ,rouen1 the execution of the
 unfortunate ,joan of ,arc1 which is    
said to  have taken place on the very   
spot now covered by the monument that   

commemorates her fate4 ,three different 
ones have in succession occupied  this  
place4 ,the first was a cross1 erected  
in #aded1 only twenty-four  years after 
her death2 for even at this early       
period1 the ,king of ,france  had       
obtained from ,pope ,calixtus ,i,i,ird1 
a bull directing the revision of  her   
sentence1 and he had caused her         
innocence to be acknowledged4 ,the      
second was a fountain of delicate       
workmanship1 consisting of three  tiers 
of columns placed one above the other1  
on a triangular plan1 the  whole        
decorated with arabesques and statues of
 saints1 while the ,maid  herself       
crowned the summit1 and the water flowed
 through pipes that  terminated in      
horses' heads4 ,the present monument is 
inferior to the  second1 equally in     
design and in workmanship3 it is a plain
 triangular  pedestal1 ornamented with  
dolphins at the base1 and surmounted by 
the  heroine in military costume4 ,of   
the two last1 figures are given by      

,millin#aji1 who could not be expected  
to suffer a subject to escape  him1 so  
calculated for the gratification of     
national pride4 ,in a  preceding volume 
of the same work#aaj1 he has represented
 the monument  erected to her memory by 
,charles ,v,i,ith1 upon the bridge at   
,orleans3 the  latter is commemorative  
of her triumphs2 that at ,rouen1 only of
 her  capture and death4 ,but the ,king 
testified his gratitude by more         
substantial tokens3 he ennobled her     
three brothers and their  descendants2  
and even allowed the females of the     
family to confer their  rank upon the   
persons whom they married1 a privilege  
which they  continued to enjoy till the 
time of ,louis ,x,i,i,ith1 who abolished
 it in  #afcd4    ,in the square is a   
house within a court1 now occupied as a 
school for  girls1 of the same ra as the
 ,palais de ,justice1 and in the same   
,burgundian style1 but far richer in its
 sculptures4 ,the entire front  is      
divided into compartments by slender and

 lengthened buttresses and  pilasters4  
,the intervening spaces are filled with 
basso-relievos1  evidently executed at  
one period1 though by different masters4
 ,a  banquet beneath a window in the    
first floor1 is in a good cinque-cento  
style4 ,others of the basso-relievos1   
represent the labors of the field  and  
the vineyard2 rich and fanciful in their
 costume1 but rather wooden  in their   
design3 the ,salamander1 the emblem of  
,francis ,ist1 appears  several times   
amongst the ornaments1 and very         
conspicuously4 ,i believe  there is not 
a single square foot of this            
extraordinary building1 which  has not  
been sculptured4--,on the north side    
extends a spacious gallery4  ,here the  
architecture is rather in ,holbein's    
manner3 foliaged and  swelling          
pilasters1 like antique candelabra1     
bound the arched windows4  ,beneath1 is 
the well-known series of bas-reliefs1   
executed on marble  tablets1            
representing the interview between      

,francis ,ist of ,france1 and  ,henry   
,v,i,i,ith of ,england1 in the ,champ du
 ,drap d'or1 between ,guisnes  and      
,ardres4 ,they were first discovered by 
the venerable father  ,montfaucon1 who  
engraved them in his ,monumens de la    
,monarchie  ,franaise#aaa2 but to the   
greater part of our antiquaries at home1
  they are1 perhaps1 more commonly known
 by the miserable copies inserted  in   
,ducarel's work1 who has borrowed most  
of his plates from the                  
,benedictine4--,these sculptures are    
much mutilated1 and so obscured by      
smoke and dirt1 that the details cannot 
be understood without great  difficulty4
 ,the corresponding tablets above the   
windows1 are even in a  worse condition2
 and they appear to have been almost    
unintelligible in  the time of          
,montfaucon1 who conjectures that they  
were allegorical1 and  probably intended
 to represent the triumph of religion4  
,each tablet  contains a triumphal car1 
drawn by different animals1 one by      

elephants1  another by lions1 and so on1
 and crowded with mythological figures  
and  attributes4--,a friend of mine1 who
 examined them this summer1 tells me1   
that he thinks the subjects are either  
taken from the triumphs of  ,petrarch1  
or imitated from the triumphs introduced
 in the ,polifilo4  ,graphic            
representations of allegories are       
susceptible of so many  variations1 that
 an artist1 embodying the ideas of the  
poet1 might  produce a representation   
bearing a close resemblance to the      
mythological  processions of the mystic 
dream4--,of one of the most perfect of  
the  historical subjects1 ,i send you a 
drawing3 it is the first in order in    
,montfaucon's work1 and exhibits the    
suite of the ,king of ,england1 on      
their way from the town of ,guisnes1 to 
meet the ,french monarch4 ,two of  the  
figures might be mistaken for ,henry    
himself and ,wolsey1 riding  familiarly 
side by side2 but these dignified       
personages have more  important parts   

allotted them in the second and third   
compartments1  where they appear in the 
full-blown honors of their respective   
characters4    ,illustration3           
,bas-,relief1 from the representations  
of the ,champ du ,drap d'or    ,the     
interior has been modernized2 so that a 
beam covered with small  carvings is the
 only remaining object of curiosity4 ,on
 the top1 a bunch  of leaden thistles   
has been a sad puzzle to antiquaries1   
who would fain  find some connection    
between the building and ,scotland2 but 
neither  record nor tradition throw any 
light upon their researches4            
,montfaucon1  copying from a manuscript 
written by the ,abb ,noel1 says1 ,i have
 more  than once been told that ,francis
 ,ist1 on his way through ,rouen1 lodged
  at this house2 and it is most         
probable1 that the bas-reliefs in       
question  were made upon some of these  
occasions1 to gratify the king by the   
representation of a festival1 in which  
he particularly delighted4 ,the  gallery

 sculptures are very fine1 and the upper
 tier is much in the  style of ,jean    
,goujon4 ,it is not generally known that
 ,goujon re-drew the  embellishments of 
,beroald de ,verville's translation of  
the ,polifilo2 and  that these1         
beautiful as they are in the ,aldine    
edition1 acquired new  graces from the  
,french artist4--,i have remarked that  
the allegorical  tablets appear to      
coincide with the designs of the        
,polifilo3 a more  accurate examination 
might1 perhaps1 prove the fact2 and then
 little  doubt would remain4 ,the       
building is much dilapidated2 and1      
unless  speedily repaired1 these        
basso-relievos1 which would adorn any   
museum1  will utterly perish4 ,in spite 
of neglect and degradations1 the aspect 
of  the mansion is still such that1 as  
my friend observed1 one would expect  to
 see a fair and stately matron standing 
in the porch1 attired in  velvet1       
waiting to receive her lord4--,in the   
adjoining house1 once1  probably1 a part

 of the same1 but now an inn1 bearing   
the sign of la  ,pucelle1 is shewn a    
circular room1 much ornamented1 with a  
handsome  oriel conspicuous on the      
outside4 ,in this apartment1 the ,maid  
is said to  have been tried2 but it is  
quite certain that not a stone of the   
building was then put of the quarry4    
,hence ,i must take you1 and still under
 the auspices of ,millin#aab1 to  the   
great town-clock1 or1 as it is here     
called1 la ,tour de la ,grosse          
,horloge2 and ,i cannot help wishing on 
the occasion1 that ,i had half the      
powers of instructing and amusing which 
he possessed4 ,like the writers  in our 
most popular ,reviews1 he uses the      
subjects which he places at the  head of
 his articles as little more than a peg1
 whereon to hang whatever  he knows     
connected with the matter2 and the      
result is1 that he is never  read       
without pleasure or information4 ,such  
is peculiarly the case in the  present  
instance1 in which he takes an          

opportunity of giving the history  of   
the origin of clocks1 tracing them from 
the simple dial1 and  particularising   
the most curious and intricate          
contrivances of modern  ingenuity4      
,another name of the tower which        
contains this clock1 is la  ,tour du    
,beffroi1 or1 as we should say in       
,english1 the ,belfry2 for the  two     
words have the same meaning1 and it is  
not to be doubted but that  they        
originated from the same root1 the      
,anglo-,saxon bell1 whence  barbarous   
,latinists have formed ,belfredus and   
,berfredus1 terms for  moveable towers  
used in sieges1 and so denominated from 
their  resemblance in form to           
bell-towers4 ,i mention this etymology1 
because  the ,french have misled        
themselves strangely on the subject2 and
 one of  them has wandered so widely in 
his conjectures1 as to derive beffroi   
from bis effroi1 supposing it to be the 
cause of double alarm6  ,happily1 in the
 most alarming of all times for ,france1

 that of the  revolution1 this bell1    
though appointed the tocsin1 had        
scarcely ever  occasion to sound4 ,there
 is1 however1 another purpose1 alarming 
at all  periods1 and especially in a    
town built of wood1 to which it is      
appropriated1 and to which we only      
yesterday heard it applied1 the  ringing
 to announce a fire4 ,the precautions   
taken against similar  accidents in     
,rouen1 are excellent1 and they had need
 be so2 for  insurance-companies of any 
kind are unknown1 ,i believe1 in        
,france#aac1  or exist only upon a most 
limited scale1 at the foot of the       
,pyrenees1  where the farmers mutually  
insure each other against the effects of
 the  hail4 ,the daily office of this   
bell is to sound the curfew1 a practice 
which1 under different names1 is still  
kept up through ,normandy4 ,here it     
rings nightly at nine4 ,in other towns  
it rings at nine in winter only1  but   
not till ten in summer4 ,in some places 
it is called la retraite4    ,adjoining 

the bell-tower is a fountain1 ornamented
 with statues of  ,alpheus and          
,arethusa1 united by ,cupid2 a specimen 
of the taste of the  far-famed sicles de
 ,louis ,,xiv et de ,louis ,,xv1 and a  
worthy companion  of the water-works at 
,versailles4 ,there are in ,rouen more  
than thirty  public fountains1 all      
supplied by five different springs1     
among which1  those of ,yonville and of 
,darntal are accounted to afford the    
purest  water4--,the ,robec and the     
,aubette also flow through ,rouen in    
artificial  channels4 ,st4 ,louis       
granted them both to the city in #abfb2 
but it was  the great benefactor of the 
place1 the ,cardinal d',amboise1 who    
brought  them within the walls1 by means
 of a canal1 which he caused to be dug  
at his own expence4 ,for a space of two 
leagues their banks are  uninterruptedly
 lined with mills and manufactories of  
various  descriptions2 and it is this   
circumstance which has given rise to the
  saying1 that ,rouen is a wonderful    

place1 for that it has a river with     
three hundred bridges1 and whose waters 
change their color ten times a  day4    
,as a building1 the fountain of         
,lisieux1 decorated with a bas-relief   
representing ,parnassus1 with ,apollo1  
the ,muses1 and ,pegasus1 is most       
frequently pointed out to strangers2 a  
wretched specimen of wretched  taste4   
,infinitely more interesting to us are  
the ,gothic fountains or  conduits1     
which are now wholly wanting in         
,england4 ,such is the fountain  de la  
,croix de ,pierre1 which1 in shape1     
style1 and ornaments1  resembles the    
monumental crosses erected by2 our ,king
 ,edward ,ist1 for  his ,queen ,eleanor4
 ,the water flows from pipes in the     
basement4 ,the stone  statues1 which    
filled the tabernacles1 were destroyed  
during the  revolution3 they have been  
replaced by others in wood4--,the       
fountain de  la ,crosse is of inferior  
size1 and more recent date4 ,it is a    
polygon1  with sides of pannelled work1 

each compartment occupied by a pointed  
arch1 with tracery in the spandrils4 ,it
 ends in a short truncated  pyramid1    
which1 in ,millin's time1 was surmounted
 by a royal crown#aad4  ,its name is    
taken from a house1 at whose corner it  
stands1 and on whose  roof was          
originally a crozier4    ,writing to a  
friend may be regarded1 if we extend to 
writing the happy  comparison which     
,lord ,bacon has applied to             
conversation1 not as walking  in a      
high-road which leads direct to a house1
 but rather as strolling  through a     
country intersected with a variety of   
paths1 in which the  traveller wanders  
as fancy or accident directs4 ,hence ,i 
shall scarcely  apologize for my abrupt 
transition to another very different    
subject1  the hospitals4--,there are at 
,rouen two such establishments1 situated
 at  opposite extremes of the town1 the 
,hospice ,gnral and the ,htel  ,dieu1   
more commonly called la ,madeleine4 ,the
 latter is appropriated  only to the    

sick2 the former is also open to the    
aged1 to foundlings1 to  paupers1 and to
 lunatics4 ,for the poor1 ,i have been  
able to hear of no  other provision2 and
 poor-laws1 as you know1 have no        
existence in  ,france2 yet1 even here1  
in a manufacturing town1 and at a season
 of  distress1 beggary is far from      
extreme4 ,these institutions1 like all  
the  rest at ,rouen1 are said to be     
under excellent management4    ,the     
annual expences of la ,madeleine are    
estimated at two hundred and  forty     
thousand-francs#aae2 out of which sum1  
no less than forty-seven  thousand      
francs are expended in bread4 ,the      
number of individuals  admitted here1   
during the first nine months of #ahje1  
the last authentic  statement ,i have   
been able to procure1 was two thousand  
seven hundred  and seventeen3 during the
 same period1 two thousand one hundred  
and  fifty-eight were discharged1 and   
two hundred and seventy died4 ,the      
building is modern and handsome1 and    

situated at the end of a fine  avenue4  
,the church1 a ,corinthian edifice1 and 
indisputably the  handsomest building of
 that description at ,rouen1 is         
generally admired4  ,the ,hospice       
,gnral1 destitute as it is of           
architectural magnificence1  cannot be  
visited without satisfaction4 ,when ,i  
was at this hospital1 the  old men who  
are housed there were seated at their   
dinner1 and ,i have  seldom witnessed a 
more pleasing sight4 ,they exhibited an 
appearance of  cleanliness1 propriety1  
good order1 and comfort1 equally        
creditable to  themselves and to the    
institution4 ,the number of inmates     
usually  resident in this building is   
about two thousand2 and they consisted1 
in  #ahje1 of one hundred and sixty aged
 men1 one hundred and eighty aged       
women1 six hundred children1 and eight  
hundred and twenty-five invalids4       
,among the latter were forty lunatics4  
,the food here allowed to the  helpless 
poor is of good quality2 and1 as far as 

,i could learn1 is  afforded in         
sufficient quantity3 there are also two 
work-shops2 in one  of which1 articles  
are manufactured for the use of the     
house2 in the  other1 for sale4    ,the 
principal towns of ,france1 as was      
anciently the case in ,england1  have   
each its mint4 ,the numismatic          
antiquities of this kingdom are yet     
involved in considerable obscurity2 but 
it is said that the monetary  privileges
 of the towns were first settled by     
,charles the ,bald#aaf1  who1 about the 
year #hce1 enacted1 that money1 which   
had previously only  been coined in the 
royal palace itself1 or in places where 
the sovereign  was present1 should be   
struck in future at ,paris1 ,rouen1     
,rheims1 ,sens1  ,chalons sur ,saone1   
,mesle in ,poitou1 and ,narbonne4 ,at   
present1 the money  struck at ,rouen is 
impressed with the letter ,b1 indicating
 that the  mint is second only to that  
of ,paris2 for the city has remained in 
possession of the right of coinage      

throughout all its various changes of   
masters3 it now holds it in common with 
ten other1 cities in the  kingdom4      
,ducarel#aag has figured two very scarce
 silver pennies1 coined  here by        
,william the ,conqueror1 before the     
invasion of ,england2 and  ,snelling and
 ,ruding#aah detail ordinances for the  
regulation of the  mintage of ,rouen1   
during the reign of ,henry ,vth4 ,i have
 not been able1  however1 to procure in 
the city any specimens of these1 or of  
other  ,norman coins2 and in fact the   
native spot of articles of virtu is     
seldom the place where they can be      
procured either genuine or in           
abundance4 ,greek medals1 ,i am told1   
are regularly exported from  ,birmingham
 to ,athens1 for the supply of our      
travelled gentlemen2 and1 if  groats and
 pennies should ever rise in the market1
 ,i doubt not but that  they will find  
their way in plenty into the old towns  
of ,normandy4 ,there  is not1 at ,rouen1
 any public collection of the           

productions of the mint4  ,since the    
annexation of the duchy to the crown of 
,france1 no coins have  been struck     
here1 except the common silver currency 
of the kingdom3 the  manufacture of     
medals and of gold coins is exclusively 
the privilege of  the ,parisian mint4   
,the establishment is under the care of 
a commissary  and assay-master1         
appointed by the crown1 but not         
salaried4 ,their pay  depends upon the  
amount of money coined1 on which they   
are allowed one  and a half per cent41  
and are left to find silver where they  
can2 so  that1 in effect1 it is little  
more than a private concern4 ,the work  
is  performed by four die-presses1 moved
 by levers1 each of which requires  ten 
men2 and about twenty thousand pieces   
can be produced daily from  each press4 
,but this method of working is attended 
with unequal  pressure1 and causes both 
trouble and uncertainty3 it is even     
necessary  that each coin should be     
separately weighed4 ,the extreme        

superiority of  the machinery of our own
 mint1 where the whole operation is     
performed by  steam1 with a rapidity and
 accuracy altogether astonishing1       
affords ,just  reason for exultation to 
an ,englishman4--,it is true1 that the  
execution  of our bank paper rather     
counterbalances such feelings of        
complacency4    ,footnotes3    #aje     
,this appears from the following        
inscription now upon a silver  tablet   
placed near it4--,ce tableau est celui  
qui fut donn par ,louis  ,,xii1 en      
#adii1  l',exchiquier1 lorsqu'il le     
rendit permanent4 ,c'est le  seul de    
tous les ornemens de ce palais qui ait  
chapp aux ravages de la  rvolution3 il a
 t conserv par les soins de ,m4 ,gouel1 
graveur1 et par  lui remis  la cour     
royale de ,rouen qui l'a fait placer    
ici1 comme un  monument de la pit d'un  
roi1  qui sa bont mrita le surnom de pre
  du peuple1 et dont les vertus se      
reproduisent aujourd'hui dans la        
personne non moins chrie que sacre de sa

 majest trs chrtienne1  ,louis ,,xviii1 
#ae ,janvier1 #ahaf4    #ajf ,du ,cange1
 7,i4 p4 #bd47 quoting from a book      
printed at ,rouen1 in  #aehg1 under the 
title of ,les ,triomphes de l',abbaye   
des ,conards1 c4  gives the following   
curious mock patent from the abbot of   
this  confraternity1 addressed to       
somebody of the name of ,de             
,montalinos4--       ,provisio          
,cardinalatus ,rothomagensis            
,julianensis1 c4       ,paticherptissime
 ,pater1 c4       ,abbas ,conardorum et 
inconardorum ex quacumque ,natione1 vel 
genitatione sint aut fuerint3 ,dilecto  
nostro filio naturali et     illegitimo 
,jacobo  ,montalinasio salutem et       
sinistram benedictionem4     ,tua talis 
qualis vita et sancta reputatio cum     
bonis servitiis 444 et     quod         
diffidimus qud postea facies secundm    
indolem adolescenti ac     sapienti tu  
in ,conardicis actibus1 induxenunt nos1 
c4 ,quocirca     mandamus ad amicos1    
inimicos et benefactores nostros qui ex 

hoc     sculo transierunt vel transituri
 sunt 444 quatenus habeant te           
ponere1 statuere1 instalare et investire
 tm in choro1 chordis et     organo1 qum
 in cymbalis bene sonantibus1 faciantque
 te jocundari et     ludere de          
libertatibus franchisiis1 c4444         
,voenundatum in tentorio     nostro     
prope sanctum ,julianum sub annulo      
peccatoris anno pontificatus     nostri1
 #f4 ,kalend4 fabacearum1 hora ver      
noctis #ag4 more ,conardorum            
computando1 c4    #ajg ,the music of    
this hymn1 or prose1 as it is termed in 
the  ,catholic ,rituals1 is given in the
 ,atlas to ,millin's ,travels through   
the  ,southern ,departments of ,france1 
plate #d4    #ajh ,see under the article
 ,abbas ,conardorum1 ,i4 p4 #bd4    #aji
 ,antiquits ,nationales1 ,,iii4 ,no4    
#cf4    #aaj ,vol4 ,,ii4 ,no4 #i4       
#aaa ,vol4 ,,iv4 t4 #bi1 #cj1 #ca4      
#aab ,antiquits ,nationales1 ,,iii4 ,no4
 #cj4    #aac ,this ceased to be the    
case almost immediately after this      

remark  was made2 for1 on my return to  
,france1 in #ahai1 ,i observed on the   
whole  road from ,dieppe to ,paris1 the 
letters ,p ,a ,c ,i1 or others1 equally 
meaning pour assurance contre           
l'incendie1 painted upon the fronts of  
the houses4    #aad ,antiquits          
,nationales1 ,,iii4 article #cj1 p4     
#bf4--7;,in the figure1  however1 which 
accompanies this article1 the summit is 
mutilated1 as ,i  saw it47    #aae      
,peuchet1 ,description ,topographique et
 ,statistique de la ,france1            
,dpartement de la ,seine ,infrieure1 p4 
#cc4    #aaf ,histoire de la ,haute     
,normandie1 ,i4 p4 #id4    #aag         
,anglo-,norman ,antiquities1 p4 #cc4 t4 
#c4    #aah ,annals of the ,coinage of  
,britain1 ,i4 p4 #eje-ejg4              
,,letter ,,xiii4    ,,monastic          
,,institutions--,,library--,,manuscripts
--,,museum--,,academy--,,botanic        
,,garden--,,theatre--,,ancient          
,,history--,,eminent ,,men4             
7,rouen1 ,june1 #ahah47    ,the laws of 

,france do not recognize monastic vows2 
but of late years1  the clergy have made
 attempts to re-establish the           
communities which once  characterized   
the ,catholic church4 ,to a certain     
degree they have  succeeded3 the spirit 
of religion is stronger than the law2   
and the  spirit of contradiction1 which 
teaches the subject to do whatever the  
law forbids1 is stronger than either4   
,hence1 most towns in ,france  contain  
establishments1 which may be considered 
either as the embers of  expiring       
monachism1 or the sparks of its reviving
 flame4 ,rouen has now a  convent of    
,ursulines1 who undertake the education 
of young females4 ,the  house is        
spacious2 and for its neatness1 as well 
as for the appearance  of regularity and
 propriety1 cannot be surpassed4 ,on    
this account1 it is  often visited by   
strangers4 ,the present lady-abbess1    
,dame ,cousin1 would  do honor to the   
most flourishing days of the hierarchy3 
when she walks  into the chapel1 ,saint 

,ethelburgha herself could not have     
carried the  crozier with greater state2
 and1 though she is somewhat short and  
somewhat thick1 her pupils are all      
wonderfully edified by her dignity4     
,she has upwards of dozen ,english      
heretics under her care2 but she will   
not compromise her conscience by        
allowing them to attend the ,protestant 
service4 ,there are also about ninety   
,french scholars1 and the inborn        
antipathy between them and the          
insulaires1 will sometimes evince       
itself4 ,amongst other specimens of     
girlish spite1 the ,french fair-ones    
have divided the ,english damsels into  
two genera4 ,those who look plump  and  
good-humored1 they call ,mesdemoiselles 
,rosbifs2 whilst such as are  thin and  
graver acquire the appellation of the   
,mesdemoiselles ,goddams1  a name by    
which we have been known in ,france1 at 
least five centuries  ago4--,this story 
is not trivial1 for it bespeaks the     
national feeling2  and1 although you may

 not care much about it1 yet ,i am sure1
 that five  centuries hence1 it will be 
considered as of infinite importance by 
the  antiquaries who are now babes      
unborn4 ,the ,ursulines and soeurs      
d',ernemon1 or de la ,charit1 who nurse 
the sick1 are the only two  orders which
 are now protected by government4 ,they 
were even encouraged  under the reign of
 ,napolon1 who placed them under the    
care of his  august parent1 ,madame     
,mre4--,there are other sisterhoods at  
,rouen1  though in small numbers1 and   
not publickly patronized4    ,nuns are  
thus increasing and multiplying1 but    
monks and friars are  looked upon with a
 more jealous eye2 and ,i have not heard
 that any such  communities have been   
allowed to re-assemble within the limits
 of the  duchy1 once so distinguished   
for their opulence1 and1 perhaps1 for   
their  piety and learning4    ,the      
libraries of the monasteries were       
wasted1 dispersed1 and destroyed1       
during the revolution2 but the wrecks   

have since been collected in the        
principal towns2 and thus originated the
 public library of ,rouen1 which  now   
contains1 as it is said1 upwards of     
seventy thousand volumes4 ,as may  be   
anticipated1 a great proportion of the  
works which it includes  relate to      
theology and scholastic divinity2 and   
the ,bollandists present  their         
formidable front of fifty-four ponderous
 folios4    ,illustration3 ,initial     
,letter from a ,,ms4 of the ,history of 
,william of ,jumieges    ,the           
manuscripts1 of which ,i understand     
there are full eight hundred1 are  of   
much greater value than the printed     
books4 ,but they are at present         
unarranged and uncatalogued1 though ,m4 
,licquet1 the librarian1 has been  for  
some time past laboring to bring them   
into order4 ,among those  pointed out to
 us1 none interested me so much as an   
original autograph2  of the ,historica  
,normannorum1 by ,william de ,jumiegies1
 brought from  the very abbey to which  

he belonged4 ,there is no doubt1 ,i     
believe1 of  its antiquity2 but1 to     
enable you to form your own judgment    
upon the  subject1 ,i send you a tracing
 of the first paragraph4                
,illustration3 ,historica ,normannorum  
tracing of autograph    ,i also add a   
fac-simile of the initial letter of the 
foregoing epistle1  illuminated by the  
monk1 and in which he has introduced    
himself in the  act of humbly presenting
 his work to his royal namesake4 ,i am  
mistaken1  if any equally early1 and    
equally well authenticated              
representation of a  ,king of ,england  
be in existence4 ,the ,historia         
,normannorum is  incomplete1 both at the
 beginning and end1 and it does not     
occupy more  than one-fifth of the      
volume3 the rest is filled with a       
comment upon the  ,jewish ,history4     
,the articles among the manuscripts1    
most valued by antiquaries1 are a       
,benedictionary and a ,missal1 both     
supposed of nearly the same date1  the  

beginning of the twelfth century4       
,the ,abb ,saas1 who published1 in      
#agdf1 a catalogue of the manuscripts   
belonging to the library of the         
cathedral of ,rouen1 calls this         
,benedictionary1 which then belonged to 
the metropolitan church1 a              
,penitential2 and gives it as his       
opinion1 that it is a production of  the
 eighth century1 with which ra he says  
that the character of the  writing      
wholly accords4 ,montfaucon1 who never  
saw it1 follows the ,abb2  but the      
opinion of these learned men has        
recently been confuted by ,m4           
,gourdin#aai1 who has bestowed          
considerable pains upon the elucidation 
of the history and contents of this     
curious relic4 ,he states that a sum  of
 fifteen thousand francs had been       
offered for it1 by a countryman of  our 
own2 but ,i should not hesitate to class
 this tale among the  numberless idle   
reports which are current upon the      
continent1 respecting  the riches and   

the folly of ,english travellers4 ,the  
famous ,bedford  ,missal1 at a time when
 the bibliomania was at its height#abj1 
could  hardly fetch a larger sum2 and   
this of ,rouen is in no point of view1  
except antiquity1 to be put in          
competition with the ,english           
manuscript4  ,its illuminations are     
certainly beautiful2 but they are       
equalled by many  hundreds of similar   
works2 and they are only three in       
number1 the  ,resurrection1 the ,descent
 of the ,holy ,ghost1 and the ,death of 
the  ,virgin4--,the volume appears to   
have been originally designed for the   
use of the cathedral of ,canterbury2 as 
it contains the service used at  the    
consecration of our ,anglo-,saxon       
sovereigns4    ,the ,missal1 which is   
also the object of ,m4 ,gourdin's       
dissertation1 is  from the convent of   
,jumieges4 ,its date is established by  
the  circumstance of the paschal table  
finishing with the year #ajie4 ,it      
contains eleven miniatures1 inferior in 

execution to those in the               
,benedictionary2 and it ends with the   
following anathema1 in the  hand-writing
 of the ,abbot ,robert1 by whom it was  
given to the  monastery3--,quem si quis 
vi vel dolo seu quoque modo isti loco   
subtraxerit1 anim su propter quod       
fecerit detrimentum patiatur1 atque  de 
libro viventium deleatur et cum justis  
non scribatur4    ,as a memorial of a   
usage almost universal in the earlier   
ages of the  church1 the ,diptych1      
commonly called the ,livre d',ivoire1 is
 a  valuable relic4 ,the covers exhibit 
figures of ,st4 ,peter and of some      
other saint1 in a good style of         
workmanship1 perhaps of the lower       
empire4 ,the book contains the oaths    
administered to each archbishop of      
,rouen and his suffragans1 upon their   
entering on their office1 all of  them  
severally subscribed by the individuals 
by whom they were sworn4 ,it  begins at 
a very early period1 and finishes with  
the name of ,julius  ,basilius ,ferronde

 de la ,ferronaye1 consecrated ,bishop  
of ,lisieux1 in  #aghd4 ,in the first   
page is the formula of the oath of the  
archbishop4--,juramentum ,archiepiscopi 
,rothomagensis jucundo adventu          
receptionis su4--,primo dicat et        
pronuntiet ,decanus vel alius de        
,majoribus verba qu sequentur in        
introitu atrii2--,adest1 reverende      
pater1 tua sponsa1 nostra mater1 hc     
,rothom4 ecclesia1 cum maximo gaudio    
recipere te parata1 ut eam regas        
salubriter1 potenter protegas et        
defendas4--,responsio                   
,archiepiscopalis2--,hc1 ,deo donante1  
me facturum  promitto4--,iterum ,decanus
 vel alius2--,firma juramento qu te     
facturum  promittis4--,ego1 ,dei        
patientia1 bujus ,rothom4 ecclesi       
minister1 juro  ad hc sancta ,dei       
evangelia quod ipsam ecclesiam contra   
quoslibet tam in  bona quam in personas 
ipsius invasores et oppressores pro     
posse  protegam viriliter et defendam1  
atque etiam ipsius ecclesi jura1        

libertates1 privilegia1 statuta et      
consuetudines apostolicas servabo       
fideliter4 ,bona ejusdem ecclesi non    
alienabo nec alienari permittam1  quin  
pro posse1 si qu alienata fuerint1      
revocabo4 ,sic me ,deus adjuvet  et     
sancta ,dei evangelia4    ,the oath of  
the bishops and abbots was nothing more 
than a promise of  constant respect and 
obedience on their parts to the church  
and  archbishop of ,rouen4 ,you will    
find it in the ,voyages                 
,liturgiques#aba2  in which you will    
also meet with a great deal of curious  
matter touching  the peculiar customs   
and ceremonies of this cathedral4 ,the  
different  metropolitan churches of     
,france before the revolution1 like     
those of our  own country prior to the  
reformation1 varied materially from one 
another  in observances of minor        
importance2 at the same time that their 
rituals  all agreed in what may be      
termed the doctrinal ceremonies of the  
church4    ,the last manuscript which ,i

 shall mention1 is the only one that is 
commonly shewn to strangers3 it is a    
,graduel1 a very large folio  volume1   
written in the seventeenth century1 and 
of transcendent beauty4  ,julio ,clovio 
himself1 the ,raphael of this department
 of art1 might have  been proud to be   
considered the author of the miniatures 
in it4 ,the  representations of lapis   
lazuli are even more wonderful than the 
flowers  and insects4 ,the whole was    
done by a monk1 of the name of ,daniel  
,d',eaubonne1 and is said to have cost  
him the labor of his entire life4    ,in
 earlier times1 a similar occupation was
 regarded as peculiarly                 
meritorious#abb4--,there died a friar1 a
 man of irregular life1 and his  soul   
was brought before the judgment-seat to 
receive its deserts4 ,the  evil spirits 
attended1 not anticipating any          
opposition to the claim  which they     
preferred2 but the guardian angels      
produced a large book1  filled with a   
transcript from holy writ by the hand of

 the criminal2 and  it was at length    
agreed that each letter in it should be 
allowed to  stand against a sin4 ,the   
tale was carefully gone through3 ,satan 
exerted  his utmost ingenuity to        
substantiate every crime of omission or 
commission2 and the contending parties  
kept equal pace1 even unto the  last    
letter of the last word of the last line
 of the last page1 when1  happily for   
the monk1 the recollection of his       
accuser failed1 and not a  single charge
 could be found to be placed in the     
balance against it4 ,his  soul was      
therefore again remanded to the body1   
and a farther time was  allotted to it  
to correct its evil ways4--,the legend  
is pointed by an  apposite moral2 for   
the brethren are exhorted to pray1 read1
 sing1 and  write1 always bearing in    
mind1 that one devil only is allowed to 
assail  a monk who is intent upon his   
duties1 but that a thousand are let     
loose  to lead the idle into temptation4
    ,the library is open every day1     

except ,sundays and ,thursdays1 from ten
 to  two1 to everybody who chooses to   
enter4 ,it is to the credit of the      
inhabitants of ,rouen1 that they avail  
themselves of the privilege2 and  the   
room usually contains a respectable     
assemblage of persons of all  classes4  
,the revenue of the library does not    
amount to more than three  thousand     
francs per annum2 but it is also        
occasionally assisted by  government4   
,the ,french ministers of state consider
 that it is the  interest of the nation 
to promote the publication of splendid  
works1  either by pecuniary grants to   
the authors1 or1 as more commonly       
happens1  by subscribing for a number of
 copies1 which they distribute amongst  
the  public libraries of the            
kingdom4--,i could say a great deal upon
 the  difference in the conduct of the  
governments of ,france and ,england in  
this respect1 but it would be out of    
place2 and ,i trust that our ,house  of 
,commons will not be long before they   

expunge from the statute-books1  a law  
which1 under the shameless pretence of  
encouraging learning1 is  in fact a     
disgrace to the country4    ,the museum 
is also established at the              
,htel-de-,ville1 where it occupies  a   
long gallery and a room adjoining4 ,it  
is under the superintendence of  ,m4    
,descamps1 son of the author of two very
 useful works1 ,la ,vie des  ,peintres  
,flamands and ,le ,voyage ,pittoresque4 
,the father was born at  ,dunkirk1 in   
#agad1 but lived principally at ,paris1 
till an accidental  circumstance fixed  
him at ,rouen1 in #agdj4 ,on his way to 
,england1 he here  formed an            
acquaintance with ,m4 de ,cideville1 the
 friend of ,voltaire1  who1 anxious for 
the honor of his native town1 persuaded 
the young  artist to select it as the   
place of his future residence4 ,the     
event  fully answered his expectation2  
for the ability and zeal of ,m4         
,descamps  soon gave new life to the    
arts at ,rouen4 ,a public academy of    

painting  was formed under his auspices1
 to which he afforded gratuitous        
instruction2 and its celebrity increased
 so rapidly1 that the number of  pupils 
soon amounted to three hundred2 and     
,norman authors continued to  anticipate
 in fancy the creation of a ,norman     
school1 which should rival  those of    
,bologna and ,florence1 until the very  
moment when the revolution  dispelled   
this day-dream4 ,descamps died at the   
close of the last  century4 ,to his son1
 who inherits his parent's taste1 with  
no small  portion of his talent1 we were
 indebted for much obliging attention4  
,the museum is open to the public on    
,sundays and ,thursdays2 but daily to   
students and strangers4 ,it contains    
upwards of two hundred and thirty       
paintings4 ,of these1 the great mass is 
undoubtedly by ,french artists1         
comparatively little known and of small 
merit1 imitators of ,poussin and  ,le   
,brun4 ,such paintings as bear the names
 of the old ,italian masters1  are in   

general copies2 some of them1 indeed1   
not bad imitations4 ,among  them is one 
of the celebrated ,raphael1 commonly    
called the ,madonna di  ,san ,sisto1 a  
very beautiful copy1 especially in the  
head of the virgin1  and the female     
saint on her left hand4 ,it is esteemed 
one of his finest  pieces2 but few of   
his pictures are less generally known3  
there is no  engraving of it in         
,landon's eight volumes of his works4   
,looking to the unquestionable originals
 in the collection1 there are  perhaps  
none of greater value than ,jouvenet's  
finished sketches for the  dome of the  
,htel des ,invalides1 at ,paris4 ,they  
represent the twelve  apostles1 each    
with his symbol1 and are extremely well 
composed1 with a  bold system of light  
and shadow4 ,the museum has five other  
pictures by  the same master2 in this   
number are his own portrait1 a vigorous 
performance1 as well in point of        
character as of color2 and the ,death   
of ,st4 ,francis1 which has generally   

been considered one of his happiest     
works4 ,both these were painted with his
 left hand4 ,the death of ,st4  ,francis
 is said to have been his first attempt 
at using the brush1 after  he was       
affected with paralysis1 and to have    
been done by way of model  for his      
scholar1 ,restout1 whom he had desired  
to execute the same  subject for him4 ,a
 ,christ bearing his ,cross1 by         
,polemburg2 is a little  piece of high  
finish and considerable merit2 an ,ecce 
,homo1 by ,mignard1  is excellent2 and a
 ,st4 ,francis in ,extasy1 by ,annibal  
,caracci1 is a  good illustration of the
 true character of the ,bolognese       
school3 it is a  fine and dignified     
picture1 depending for its excellence   
upon a grand  character of expression   
and drawing1 and light and shade1 and   
not at all  on bright or varied         
coloring1 to which it makes no          
pretension4    ,as local curiosities1   
the attention of the amateur should be  
devoted to  the productions of the      

painters to whom ,rouen has given birth1
 ,restout1  ,lemonnier1 ,deshays1       
,leger1 ,houel1 ,letellier1 and         
,sacquespe1 artists1  not of the first  
class1 but of sufficient merit to do    
great credit to  the exhibition of a    
provincial metropolis4    ,from these   
recent specimens1 you would turn with   
the more pleasure to a  picture by ,van 
,eyck1 the inventor1 as it is generally 
supposed1 of oil  painting4 ,let us     
respect these fathers of the art4 ,let  
us pardon the  stiffness of their       
composition1 the formality of their     
figures1 the  inelegance of their       
draperies1 the hardness of their        
outlines1 and the  want of              
chiaroscuro2--for1 in spite of all these
 failings1 there is a  truth to nature1 
and a richness of coloring1 which always
 attract and  win4 ,the picture in      
question is the ,virgin ,mother in her  
,domestic  ,retirement1 surrounded by   
her family1 a comely party of young     
females  in splendid attire1 some of    

them wearing the bridal crown4 ,it is   
altogether a curiosity1 partaking1      
indeed1 of the general bad taste of  the
 times1 but painted with great attention
 to nature in the minuti1  and          
resembling ,lionardo da ,vinci in many  
particulars1 especially in the  high    
finishing1 the coloring of the          
carnations1 and the grace1 and  beauty  
of some of the heads4 ,the draperies1   
too1 are rich and brilliant4    ,this   
museum is a recent erection3 most1 if   
not all1 of the departments  of ,france1
 possess similar establishments in their
 principal towns4 ,the  basis of the    
collection is founded upon the plunder  
of the suppressed  monasteries2 but ,m4 
,descamps told us that1 in the course of
 a journey to  ,italy1 he had been the  
means of adding to this1 at ,rouen1 its 
principal  ornaments4 ,he had the       
greater merit of preserving it entire1  
when orders  were transmitted from      
,paris to send off its best pictures1 to
 replace  those taken from the ,louvre  

by the allies2 for on all occasions1    
whether  great or small1 the interests  
of the departments are sacrificed       
without  mercy to the engulphing        
capital4 ,descamps was firm in defending
 his  trust3 he resisted the spoliation1
 upon the principle that the museum  was
 the private property of the town2 and  
the plea was admitted4    ,the same     
conventual buildings also contain the   
rooms appropriated to the  use of the   
academy at ,rouen1 a royal institution  
of old standing1 and  which has         
published fifteen volumes of its        
transactions4--,it was  founded in      
#agdd1 under a charter granted to the   
,duke of ,luxembourg1 then  governor of 
the province1 and its first president4  
,the present  complement of members     
consists of forty-six fellows1 besides  
non-resident associates4 ,its meetings  
are held every ,friday evening1 and  the
 members1 as at the institute at ,paris1
 read their own papers4 ,a few  nights  
ago1 at a meeting of this academy1 ,i   

heard a memoir from the pen  of the     
professor of botany1 in which he dwelt  
at large upon the family  of the lilies1
 but prized and praised them for nothing
 so much as for  their connection with  
the ,bourbon family4 ,i mention the fact
 to shew you  how readily the ,french   
seize hold of every occasion of         
displaying their  devotion to the powers
 that be4 ,in #ahad1 at the moment of   
the  restoration of ,louis ,x,v,i,i,ith1
 we were not surprised to see every town
  and village between ,calais and       
,paris1 decorated with a proud display  
of  the busts of the monarch1 the       
shields of ,france and ,navarre1 and    
innumerable devices and mottoes1        
consecrated1 as the ,french say1 to  the
 ,bourbons2 but four years have given   
time for this ebullition of  loyalty to 
subside2 and the introduction of such   
topics at the present  day1 and         
especially in the meetings of a body    
devoted solely to the  improvement of   
literature and of the arts and sciences1

 appears to savor  somewhat of          
adulation4 ,these praises excited no    
remarks and no  criticisms2 though both 
might have been expected2 for1 during   
the  reading of a paper1 the by-standers
 are allowed to discuss its merits  and 
its defects4 ,this practice gives the   
sittings of a ,french literary  society 
a degree of life and spirit wanting to  
ours in ,england2 but ,i  doubt if the  
advantage be not more than              
counter-balanced by the  frequent       
interruptions which it occasions1 and   
which an ill-natured  person might in   
some cases suspect to proceed from a    
desire of  attracting notice1 rather    
than from fair1 and just reprehension4  
,i  should be sorry to insinuate that   
any thing of this kind was evident at   
the time1 just alluded to1 which was the
 ,friday previous to the annual         
meeting1 the day appointed for taking   
into consideration the report  intended 
to be submitted to the full assembly of 
the inhabitants4 ,the  president also   

read his projected speech1 in the course
 of which he took  the opportunity of   
declaring in strong terms his dislike to
 ,napolon's  plan of education1 directed
 almost exclusively to military affairs 
and  mathematics3 he even stated that   
the present generation toit sans        
morale4--,the opinion could not be      
allowed to pass3 he found himself  beset
 on all sides2 not an individual        
supported him2 and after a variety  of  
attempts to palliate and explain away   
the offensive passage1 he was  obliged  
to consent to expunge it4 ,this will    
give some farther idea of  the state of 
public feeling in ,france3 the          
compliment upon the lilies  passed as   
words of course2 but the same body that 
tolerated it1  positively refused to    
stamp with the sanction of their        
approbation1 any  comparison unfavorable
 to the system of ,napolon1 when put in 
opposition  to that of the subsisting   
government4    ,there is another        
literary body at ,rouen2 called la      

,socit  d',emulation1 of more recent    
establishment1 it having been founded in
  #agia4 ,conformably to the national   
spirit which then prevailed1 it is      
directed exclusively to the             
encouragement of manufactories and      
agriculture4--,this society distributes 
annual medals as the reward of          
improvements and discoveries1 though ,i 
am afraid that as yet it has  been      
productive but of slender utility4      
,rouen also possesses a ,botanic        
,garden1 which was founded in #agch2 but
  the scite which it now occupies was   
not thus applied till twenty years      
subsequently1 when the municipality     
conveyed the ground in perpetuity to    
the academy in its corporate capacity1  
stipulating that it should yield  a     
nosegay every year as an appropriate    
rent in kind4 ,at the revolution  a     
grant like this would scarcely be       
respected2 still less did the  jacobins 
appreciate the pleasures or advantages  
derived from the garden4  ,the          

demagogues of that period seem to have  
entered heartily into ,jean  ,jacques   
,rousseau's notions1 that the arts and  
sciences were injurious to  mankind3    
this fine establishment was seized as   
national property1 and1  according to   
the revolutionary jargon1 was           
soumission2 but a more  temporate       
faction obtained the ascendancy before  
the sale was carried  into effect4--,the
 collection is extensive1 and the plants
 are in good  order3 ,i am not however1 
aware that the city has ever given birth
 to any  man of eminence in this        
department of science4 ,lately1 indeed1 
the ,abb  ,le ,turquier ,deslongchamps1 
a very well-informed botanist1 as well  
as a  most excellent man1 has published 
a ,flore des ,environs de ,rouen1 in    
two volumes2 and there are many         
instances in which such works have been 
known to diffuse a taste1 which public  
gardens and the lectures of  professors 
had in vain endeavored to excite4       
,the variety of soil in the vicinity of 

the city renders it eminently  favorable
 to the study of botany4 ,it is         
peculiarly rich in the  ,orchideoe of   
the most beautiful and interesting      
families of the  vegetable kingdom4 ,the
 curious ,satyrium hircinun is found in 
the  utmost profusion upon the chalky   
hills immediately adjoining the city2   
and1 at but a few miles distance1 in a  
continuation of the same ridge1  the    
bare chalk1 under the romantic hill of  
,st4 ,adrien1 is purpled with  the      
flowers of the ,viola ,rothomagensis1 a 
plant scarcely known to  exist in any   
other place4    ,the suburbs of ,rouen  
abound with nursery-grounds and gardens3
 the former  contribute greatly to the  
preservation of the genuine stock of    
apple-trees1 which furnish the cider1   
for which ,normandy has for many        
centuries been celebrated2 the latter   
supply the inhabitants with the  flowers
 which are seen at almost every window4 
,the square in front of  the cathedral  
is the principal flower-market2 and the 

bloom and  luxuriance and variety of the
 plants exposed for sale1 render it a   
most  pleasing promenade4 ,various      
species of jessamines and roses1 with   
oleanders1 pomegranates1 myrtles1       
egg-plants1 orange and lemon trees1  the
 ,lilium superbum and tigrinum1 ,canna  
,indica1 ,gladiolus  cardinalis1        
,clerodendrum fragrans1 ,datura         
ceratocolla1 ,clethra  alnifolia1 and   
,dianthus ,carthusianorum1 are to be    
seen in the  greatest profusion and     
beauty4 ,they at once attest the care of
 the  cultivators1 and a climate more   
genial than ours4 ,none of the flowers1 
however1 excited my envy so much as the 
,rosa moschata1 which grows  here in the
 open air1 and diffuses its delicious   
fragrance from almost  every window of  
the town4    ,it is perhaps to the      
credit of ,rouen1 that science and      
learning appear  to flourish more kindly
 than the drama4 ,the theatre of ,rouen 
is quite  uncharacteristic of the       
passion which the ,french usually       

entertain for  spectacles4 ,the house is
 shabby2 the audience1 as often as we   
have  been there1 has been small2 and in
 this great city1 the capital of an     
extensive1 populous1 and wealthy        
district we have witnessed acting so    
wretched1 as would disgrace the floor of
 a village barn4 ,we have been  much    
surprised by seeing the performers      
repeatedly laugh in the face of  the    
spectators1 a thing which ,i should     
least of all have expected in  ,france1 
where usually1 in similar cases1 the    
whole nation is tremblingly  alive to   
the slightest violations of decorum4    
,and yet ,corneille1 the  father of the 
,french drama1 was born in this city3   
the scene that is  used for a curtain at
 the theatre bears his portrait1 with   
the  inscription1 ,p4 ,corneille1 natif 
de ,rouen2 and his apotheosis is        
painted upon the cieling4 ,these        
recollections ought to tend to the      
improvement of the drama4 ,the portrait 
of the great tragedian is more          

appropriate than the busts of ,henry    
,i,vth and ,louis ,x,v,i,i,ith1 which   
occupy  opposite sides of the stage2 the
 latter laurelled and flanked with small
  white flags1 whose staffs terminate in
 paper lilies4    ,corneille and        
,fontenelle are the citizens1 of whom   
,rouen is most proud3  the house in     
which ,corneille was born1 in the ,rue  
de la ,pie1 is still  shewn to          
strangers4 ,his bust adorns the         
entrance1 together with an  inscription 
to his honor4 ,the residence of his     
illustrious nephew1 the  author of the  
,plurality of ,worlds1 is situated in   
the ,rue des bans  ,enfans1 and is      
distinguished in the same manner4 ,the  
whole ,sicle de  ,louis ,,xiv1 scarcely 
contains two names upon which ,voltaire 
dwells with  more pleasure4--,rouen was 
also the birth-place of the learned     
,bochart1  author of ,sacred ,geography 
and of the ,hierozicon2 of ,basnage1 who
  wrote the ,history of the ,bible2 of  
,sanadon1 the translator of ,horace2  of

 ,pradon1 damn'd1 in the ,satires of    
,boileau1 to everlasting fame2  of ,du  
,moustier1 to whom we are indebted for  
the ,neustria ,pia2 of  ,jouvenet1 whom 
,i have already mentioned as one of the 
most distinguished  painters of the     
,french school2 and of ,father ,daniel1 
not less eminent as  an                 
historian4--,these1 and many others1 are
 gone2 but the reflection of  their     
glory still plays upon the walls of the 
city1 which was bright1  while they     
lived1 with its lustre2--nam prclara    
facies1 magn  diviti1 ad hoc vis        
corporis1 alia hujuscemodi omnia1 brevi 
dilabuntur2  at ingenii egregia         
facinora1 sicuti anima1 immortalia sunt4
 ,postrem  corporis et fortun bonorum1  
ut initium1 finis est2 omnia orta       
occidunt  et aucta senescunt3 animus    
incorruptas1 ternus1 rector humani      
generis1  agit atque habet cuncta1 neque
 ipse habetur4    ,the more remote and  
historical honors of ,rouen would       
present ample  materials4 ,prior to the 

,roman invasion1 it appears to have been
 of less  note than as the capital of   
,neustria4    ,julius ,csar1 copious as 
he is in all that relates to ,gaul1     
makes no  mention of ,rouen in his      
,commentaries4 ,ptolemy first speaks of 
it as the  capital of the ,velocasses1  
or ,bellocasses1 the people of the      
present  ,vexin2 but he does not allow  
his readers to entertain an elevated    
idea  of its consequence2 for he        
immediately adds1 that the inhabitants  
of the  ,pays de ,caux were1 singly1    
equal to the ,velocasses and ,veromandui
  together2 and that the united forces  
of the two latter tribes did not  amount
 to one-tenth part of those which were  
kept on foot by the  ,bellovaci4--,not  
long after1 however1 when the ,romans   
became undisputed  masters of ,gaul1 we 
find ,rouen the capital of the province1
 called the  ,secunda ,lugdunensis2 and 
from that tine forward1 it continued to 
increase in importance4 ,etymologists   
have been amused and puzzled by         

,rothomagus1 its classical name4 ,in an 
uncritical age1 it was contended  that  
the name afforded good proof of the city
 having been founded by  ,magus1 son of 
,samothes1 contemporary of ,nimrod4     
,others1 with equal  diligence1 sought  
the root of ,rothomagus in the name of  
,roth1 who is  said to have been its    
tutelary god2 and the ancient clergy    
adopted the  tradition1 in the hymn1    
which forms a part of the service       
appointed for  the feast of ,st4        
,mellonus1--        ,extirpate ,roth    
idolo1       ,fides est in lumine2      
,ferro cinctus1 pane solo               
,pascitur et flumine1       ,post hc    
junctus est in polo       ,cum sanctorum
 agmine4    ,the partizans of ,roth are 
therefore supported by the authority of 
the  church2 the favorers of ,magus must
 defend themselves by more worldly      
erudition2 and we must leave the task of
 deciding between the claims of  the two
 sections of the word1 divided as they  
are by the neutral o1 to  wiser heads   

than ours4    ,footnotes3    #aai ,prcis
 ,analytique des travaux de l',acadmie  
de ,rouen1 pendant  l'anne #ahab1 p4    
#afd4    #abj ,at the sale of ,mr4      
,edwards' library1 in ,april #ahae1 it  
was bought  by the present ,duke of     
,marlborough for six hundred and        
eighty-seven  pounds fifteen            
shillings4--,the following anecdote1    
connected with it1  was communicated to 
me by a literary friend1 who had it from
 one of the  parties interested2 and ,i 
take this opportunity of inserting it1  
as  worthy of a place in some future    
,bibliographical ,decameron4--,at the   
time when the ,bedford ,missal was on   
sale1 with the rest of the ,duchess  of 
,portland's collection1 the late ,king  
sent for his bookseller1 and  expressed 
his intention to become the purchaser4  
,the bookseller ventured  to submit to  
his ,majesty1 that the article in       
question1 as one highly  curious1 was   
likely to fetch a high price4--,how     
high8--,probably1 two  hundred          

guineas6--,two hundred guineas for a    
,missal6 exclaimed the  ,queen1 who was 
present1 and lifted up her hands with   
extreme  astonishment4--,well1 well1    
said his ,majesty1 ,i'll still have it2 
but1  since the ,queen thinks two       
hundred guineas so enormous a sum for a 
,missal1 ,i'll go no farther4--,the     
bidding for the royal library did       
actually stop at that point2 and ,mr4   
,edwards carried off the prize by       
adding three pounds more4    #aba       
,published at ,rouen1 ,a4,d4            
#agah4--,the book professes to be       
written  by the ,sieur de ,molon2 but   
its real author was ,jean ,baptiste de  
,brun  ,desmarets1 son of a bookseller  
in that city4--,he was born in #afej1   
and  received his education at the      
,monastery of ,port ,royal des ,champs1 
with  the monks of which order he kept  
up such a connection1 that he was       
finally involved in their ruin4 ,his    
papers were seized2 and he was  himself 
committed to the ,bastille1 and         

imprisoned there five years4 ,he  died  
at ,orleans1 #agca4    #abb ,ordericus  
,vitalis1 in ,duchesne's ,scriptores    
,normanni1 p4 #dgj4           99        
99       99       99       99    ,,end  
,,of ,,the ,,first ,,volume4            
,,index4      ,a4    ,abbey1 of ,fcamp1 
,montivilliers1    ,pavilly1  ,abbot of 
the ,canards1 his patent1  ,academy1    
,royal1 at ,rouen1  ,angel weighing the 
good and evil deeds of a departed       
spirit1 on a capital    in the church at
 ,montivilliers1  ,archbishop1 tomb of1 
in ,rouen cathedral1  ,archbishop of    
,rouen1 formerly had jurisdiction at    
,dieppe    his present salary1    the   
oath taken by him on his accession1     
,architecture1 perpendicular style of1  
unknown in ,normandy1  ,arques1 battle  
of1  ,arques1 castle of1 its origin1    
its history1    situation1    described1
    when built1  ,arques1 town of1      
formerly a place of importance1         
,arques1 church of1 a beautiful specimen
 of florid ,norman-gothic               

architecture1      ,b4    ,b1 the mark  
of money coined at ,rouen1  ,bedford1   
,john1 ,duke of1 buried in ,rouen       
cathedral1  ,bedford ,missal1 anecdote  
respecting the sale of1 in #aghf1       
,beggars ,in ,france1  ,benedictionary1 
in the public library at ,rouen1        
,berneval1 ,alexander1 his tomb in the  
church of ,st4 ,ouen  ,bertheville1     
ancient name of ,dieppe1  ,bochart1 a   
native of ,rouen1  ,bolbec1  ,botanic   
,garden1 at ,rouen1  ,boulevards1 at    
,rouen1  ,bourgueville1 his account of  
the privilege of ,st4 ,romain1          
,bouzard1 ,i4,a41 house built for1 at   
,dieppe1  ,brez1 ,lewis1 ,duke of1 his  
monument in ,rouen cathedral  ,bridge of
 boats1 at ,rouen1  ,brighton1 compared 
with ,dieppe1      ,c4    ,csar1        
,julius1 ,roman camps in ,france        
commonly ascribed to1  ,csar's camp1    
near ,dieppe1 described1    plan of1    
if really ,roman1  ,caletes1 name of the
 former inhabitants of the ,pays de     
,caux1  ,canal from ,dieppe to          

,pontoise1 projected by ,vauban1        
,castle1 at ,dieppe1    at ,lillebonne1 
,cathedral at ,rouen1 described         
western portal    sculpture over the    
doors1    tower of ,st4 ,romain1        
,tour de ,beurre1    great bell1        
transepts1    central tower1    origin  
of1    details of1    monuments1        
lady-chapel1    paintings1    staircase 
leading to the library1    relics1      
,catherine of ,medicis1 her sanguinary  
conduct at the capture of    ,rouen1    
,caucalis grandiflora1 found at ,csar's 
camp1 near ,dieppe1  ,champ du ,drap    
d'or1 meeting at1 represented in a      
series of    bas-reliefs1  ,charles     
,vth1 buried in ,rouen cathedral1       
,charles ,i,xth1 his conduct at the     
capture of ,rouen1  ,charter1           
constitutional1 of ,france1  ,chteau de 
,bouvreuil at ,rouen1 three towers      
standing of1  ,chteau du ,vieux ,palais 
at ,rouen1 built by ,henry ,vth2        
destroyed    at the revolution1         
,church1 of ,st4 ,jacques1 at ,dieppe1  

,st4 ,remi1 at ditto1    ,arques1    the
 ,trinity1 at ,fcamp1    ,st4 ,stephen1 
at ditto1    ,montivilliers1            
,harfleur1    ,st4 ,paul1 at ,rouen1    
,st4 ,gervais1 at ditto1    ,lry1       
,pavilly1    ,yainville1    ,st4 ,ouen1 
,rouen1    ,st4 ,maclou1 at ditto1      
,st4 ,patrice1 at ditto1    ,st4        
,godard1 at ditto1  ,churches1 in early 
times1 often changed patrons1  ,cit de  
,limes1 ,csar's camp1 near ,dieppe1     
anciently so called1  ,civitas ,limarum1
 ,csar's camp1 near ,dieppe1 anciently  
so called1  ,cliffs1 height of1 near    
,dieppe1  ,conards1 confraternity of1   
confined to ,rouen and ,evreux2    their
 original object1  ,convent of the      
,ursulines1 at ,rouen1  ,coqueluchers1  
name originally borne by the ,conards1  
,corneille1 a native of ,rouen1         
,costume1 of females at ,dieppe1    of  
the inhabitants of the suburb of        
,pollet1 at ,dieppe1    of the people at
 ,rouen1  ,crypt in the church of ,st4  
,gervais1 at ,rouen1 the burial place of

 ,st4    ,mello1      ,d4    ,d',amboise
 ,george1 ,cardinal of1 builds the west 
portal of ,rouen    cathedral1    builds
 the ,tour de ,beurre1 and places in it 
the great bell called    after him1     
finishes the lady-chapel in the         
cathedral1    builds the archbishop's   
palace1    brings the ,robec and        
,aubette to ,rouen1    his monument in  
,rouen cathedral1  ,daniel1 ,father1    
native of ,rouen1  ,deputies1           
qualifications requisite for1 in        
,france1  ,descamps1 a resident at      
,rouen1 and founder of the academy of   
painting there1  ,devotee1 anecdote of1 
,dicquemare ,l',abb1 native of ,havre1  
,dieppe1 arrival at1    compared with   
,brighton1    situation and appearance  
of1    harbor and population1    rebuilt
 in #afid1    costume of females1       
castle1    church of ,st4 ,jacques1     
church of ,st4 ,remi1    history of1    
one of the articles in the exchange for 
,andelys1    celebrated for its sailors1
    its nautical expeditions1    its    

trade in ivory1    the chief            
fishing-town in ,france1    much        
patronized by ,napolon1    formerly     
under the jurisdiction of the           
,archbishop of ,rouen1    feast of the  
,assumption at1  ,duchies1 titular1 in  
,normandy before the revolution1  ,du   
,moulin1 his character as an historian1 
,du ,quesne1 ,admiral1 native of        
,dieppe1      ,e4    ,electors1         
qualifications requisite for1 in        
,france1  ,erodium moschatum1 found at  
,arques1  ,establishment1 clerical1 in  
,france1 how paid1  ,expences1 annual1  
of the city of ,rouen1      ,f4         
,feast of the ,assumption1 how          
celebrated at ,dieppe1  ,fcamp1         
population and appearance of1           
etymology of the name1    given by      
,henry ,i,ind to the abbey1    formerly 
the seat of the government of the ,pays 
de ,caux1    a residence of the ,norman 
,dukes1    now a poor fishing-town1     
,fcamp1 abbey of1 founded in #ffd1      
famous for the precious blood1    its   

armorial bearings1    burial-place of   
,duke ,richard ,ist1    church of ,st4  
,stephen1  ,fcamp1 church of the abbey1 
,ferrand1 his reasoning as to any       
portion of the hair of the ,virgin      
being on earth1  ,flint1 strata of1 in  
the cliffs near ,dieppe1  ,fontenelle1  
native of ,rouen1  ,fontenu1 ,abb de1   
his dissertation on ,csar's camp1       
,fossil shells1 found plentifully near  
,havre1  ,fountains1 public1 at ,rouen1 
,francis ,ist1 founder of ,havre        
,franoisville1 name given by ,francis   
,ist to ,havre1      ,g4    ,gaguin1 his
 account of the origin of the kingdom of
 ,yvetot1  ,game-laws1 in ,france1      
,gargouille1 dragon so called1 destroyed
 by ,st4 ,romain1  ,glass1 painted1 in  
the cathedral1 at ,rouen1    in the     
church of ,st4 ,godard1  ,goujon1 ,jean1
 author of the embellishments in the    
,french translation    of the ,polifilo1
  ,graduel1 by ,daniel d',eaubonne1 in  
the ,public ,library at ,rouen1         
,grville1 priory of1  ,guild1 of the    

,assumption at ,dieppe1    of the       
,passion at ,rouen1      ,h4    ,hair of
 the ,virgin1 curious dissertation      
concerning1  ,halles1 at ,rouen1        
,harfleur1 formerly of importance1 now  
chiefly deserted1    etymology of the   
name1    its history1    beauty of the  
tower and spire of the church1  ,havre1 
a great commercial town1    its present 
appearance1    founded in #aeae1        
history of1    eminent men1  ,henry1    
eldest son of ,henry ,i,ind1 buried in  
,rouen cathedral1  ,henry ,i,vth1 his   
address to the inhabitants of ,dieppe1  
speech before the battle of ,arques1    
,henry ,vth1 his conduct at the capture 
of ,harfleur1    builds the ,chteau du  
,vieux ,palais1 at ,rouen1  ,herring and
 ,mackerel ,fishery1 at ,dieppe1        
,heylin1 ,peter1 his description of a   
,norman inn1    account of the great    
chamber of the ,palais de ,justice1 at  
,rouen1  ,holy sepulture1 chapel of the1
 in the church at ,dieppe1  ,hospitals  
at ,rouen1 annual charge of1  ,houses1  

construction of1 between ,yveto and     
,rouen1  ,house-rent1 expence of1 at    
,rouen1  ,huguenots1 excesses committed 
by1 in the church of ,st4 ,ouen1  ,hymn1
 in honor of ,st ,nicaise and ,st4      
,mello1    ,i4    ,inns in ,normandy1   
described by ,peter ,heylin1            
,inscription1 on a bnitier1 at ,dieppe1 
formerly upon crosses1 at ,rouen1       
,ivory1 much wrought by the inhabitants 
of ,dieppe1      ,j4    ,joan of ,arc1  
burned at ,rouen1    privileges granted 
to her family1  ,jouvenet1 cieling      
painted by1 in the ,palais de ,justice1 
at    ,rouen1    his sketches for the   
dome of the ,htel des ,invalides1       
native of ,rouen1  ,judith1 ,lady1 her  
epitaph at ,fcamp1      ,k4    ,kelp1   
made in large quantity near ,dieppe1    
,l4    ,lace1 much smuggled into        
,france1  ,lry1 church of1 a fine       
specimen of ,norman architecture1       
,library1 public1 at ,rouen1 how formed1
    its regulations and revenue1        
,lillebonne1 ruins of the castle1       

metropolis of the ,caletes  ,living1    
expence of1 in ,france1  ,livre         
d',ivoire1  ,longueville1 priory of1    
built by ,walter ,giffard1              
burial-place of the ,talbots1      ,m4  
,machon1 ,jean1 founder of the great    
bell1 at ,rouen1    his epitaph1        
,malaunay  ,manby1 ,captain1 ill        
rewarded1  ,manuscript1 by ,william de  
,jumieges1    fac-simile from1          
,maurilius1 archbishop of ,rouen1 his   
epitaph1  ,medallions1 remarkable1 on   
the portal of ,st4 ,romain1 in ,rouen   
cathedral1  ,megissier1 ,peter1 one of  
the judges of ,joan of ,arc1    his     
epitaph1  ,millin1 his account of a     
crime1 screened under the privilege of  
,st4 ,romain1  ,milner1 ,rev4 ,dr41 his 
description of a monumental effigy in   
,rouen cathedral1  ,mint1 at ,rouen1    
,miserere1 sculpture upon1 in ,beverley 
,minster1  ,missal from ,jumieges1 in   
the library1 at ,rouen1  ,missals1 merit
 attached to writing1 in early times1   
,mont aux ,malades1 near ,rouen1 site of

 a ducal palace1  ,mont ,ste4           
,catherine1 fort upon1    priory1       
fortress probably ,roman1    view from1 
,montfaucon1 his engravings of          
historical sculpture1 at ,rouen1        
,montivilliers1 seat of an abbey in the 
seventh century1    church1             
remarkable capitals in the church1      
present state of1  ,monument1 of the    
,cardinals d',amboise1    of the ,duc de
 ,brez  ,museum1 at ,rouen1      ,n4    
,napolon1 benefactor to ,dieppe1    his 
opinion as to the issue of the battle of
 ,arques1    jealous of ,henry ,i,vth1  
song in his honour1    began a new      
bridge at ,rouen1    cleared ,france of 
beggars1  ,normandy1 divided into       
departments1    its former titular      
duchies1      ,o4    ,oath of the       
,archbishop of ,rouen1  ,orchide1       
abundant about ,rouen1      ,p4         
,palais de ,justice1 at ,rouen1 built on
 the site of the ,jewry1    described1  
now used as a court of assize1    great 
chamber in1  ,parliament of ,normandy1  

,parties1 state of1 in ,france1         
,patent1 of the abbot of the ,conards1  
,pavilly1 monastery and church of1      
,pays de ,caux1 the country of the      
,caletes1    formerly dignified with the
 epithet1 noble1  ,philip de ,champagne1
 painting by1 in ,rouen cathedral1      
,place de la ,pucelle1 so called because
 ,joan of ,arc was burned there1        
monument in it in honor of ,joan of     
,arc1    house in it richly ornamented  
with sculpture1  ,poirier1 his account  
of the destruction of the ,chsse of ,st4
 ,romain1  ,pollet1 a suburb of ,dieppe1
 costume of its inhabitants1            
,pommeraye1 ,dom1 his account of the    
outrages committed by the ,huguenots    
in the church of ,st4 ,ouen1  ,precious 
blood1 the most sacred relic at ,fcamp1 
,priory1 of ,longueville1    ,grville1  
at ,rouen1 on ,mont ,ste4 ,catherine1   
,procession des ,fous1 held in the      
cathedral1 at ,rouen1      ,r4          
,relics1 in old times1 often migratory1 
frequently collected on solemn          

occasions1  ,representative system in   
,france1  ,rvolution1 advantages        
resulting from1 to ,france1  ,richard   
,ist1 ,duke of ,normandy1 buried at     
,fcamp1    his extraordinary directions 
respecting his interment1  ,richard     
,coeur-de-,lion1 offends the archbishop 
of ,rouen1 by building    ,chteau       
,gaillard1    his heart buried at       
,rouen1  ,roads to ,paris1 by ,dieppe1  
,calais1 and ,havre1 compared1    from  
,dieppe to ,rouen1    from ,yvetot to   
,rouen1  ,rolec and ,aubette1 brought to
 ,rouen by the ,cardinal d',amboise1    
,robert1 paintings by1 in the palace at 
,rouen1  ,rollo1 his monument and       
epitaph1  ,roth1 idol so called1        
worshipped at ,rouen1  ,rouen1 seen to  
advantage on entering from ,dieppe1     
general character of1    bridge of      
boats1    stone bridge built by         
,matilda1    boulevards1    grand cours1
    costume of the inhabitants1         
house-rent1    annual expences of the   
city1    population1    probably a      

,roman station1    old castles1         
halles1    privilege of ,st4 ,romain1   
capitulation to ,henry ,vth1    ,chteau 
du ,vieux ,palais1    petit ,chteau1    
fort on ,mont ,ste4 ,catherine1         
priory upon ditto1    taken by ,charles 
,i,xth1    mineral springs1    church of
 ,st4 ,paul1    church of ,st4 ,gervais1
    palace on the ,mont aux ,malades1   
old part of the church of ,st4 ,ouen1   
cathedral1    church of ,st4 ,ouen1     
church of ,st2 ,maclou1    church of    
,st4 ,patrice1    church of ,st4        
,godard1    house of the ,abbess of ,st4
 ,amand1    ,palais de ,justice1        
,place de la ,pucelle1    ,tour de la   
,grosse ,horloge1    fountains1         
hospitals1    mint1    convent of the   
,ursulines1    public library1          
museum1    academy1    ,socit           
d',emulation1    botanic garden1        
flower-market1    theatre1    eminent   
men1    etymology of the name1  ,rousel1
 ,john1 abbot of ,st4 ,ouen1 built the  
present church1      ,s4    ,st4 ,amand1

 house of the abbess at ,rouen1  ,ste4  
,catherine1 eminences dedicated to1     
,st4 ,gervais1 church of1 at ,rouen1    
,st4 ,godard1 his monument1  ,st4       
,godard1 church of1 at ,rouen1          
originally dedicated to the ,virgin1    
the primitive cathedral of the city1    
famous for its painted glass1  ,st4     
,jacques1 church of1 at ,dieppe1        
pendants in the lady-chapel1    chapel  
of the sepulchre1  ,st4 ,julien1        
lazar-house of1 near ,rouen1    its     
chapel1 a fine specimen of ,norman      
architecture1    monastery ceded to the 
,carthusians1 and now destroyed  ,st4   
,maclou1 church of1 at ,rouen1  ,st4    
,mello1 buried in the crypt of ,st4     
,gervais1 at ,rouen1  ,st4 ,nicaise1    
buried in the crypt of ,st4 ,gervais1 at
 ,rouen1  ,st4 ,ouen1 church of1 at     
,rouen1 a fine specimen of pointed      
architecture1    its history1           
described1    details of1    paintings  
in1    privileges of1  ,st4 ,patrice1   
church of1 at ,rouen1  ,st4 ,paul1      

church of1 at ,rouen  ,st4 ,pierre1     
,bernardin de1 native of ,havre1  ,st4  
,remi1 church of1 at ,dieppe1           
inscription on its bnitier  ,st4        
,romain1 archbishop of ,rouen1 dragon   
destroyed by1    his shrine in the      
cathedral1  ,st4 ,romain1 privilege of1 
abuse committed under its plea1  ,st4   
,vallery1  ,satyrium hircinum1 plentiful
 near ,rouen1  ,scuderi1 ,george and    
,magdalen1 natives of ,havre1           
,sculpture1 on the capitals of the      
church at ,montivilliers1    in the     
church of ,st4 ,paul1    over the       
entrances to ,rouen cathedral1    head  
of ,christ1 in fine character1 in the   
church of ,st4 ,ouen1    on a house at  
,rouen1  ,senegal1 first colonized from 
,dieppe1  ,socit d',emulation1 at       
,rouen1  ,stachys germanica1 abundant1  
near ,grville1  ,stair-case of filagree 
stone-work1 in the cathedral at ,rouen1 
in the church of ,st4 ,maclou1      ,t4 
,talbot1 fortress called the ,bastille1 
built by1 at ,dieppe1  ,theatre1 at     

,rouen1  ,tour de ,beurre1 in ,rouen    
cathedral1 built with money raised from 
the    sale of indulgences1  ,tour de la
 ,grosse ,horloge1 at ,rouen1      ,u4  
,upper ,normandy1 limits of1            
,ursulines1 convent of1 at ,rouen1      
,v4    ,van ,eyck1 painting by1 in the  
museum at ,rouen1  ,vertot1 ,abb de1    
denies the existence of the kingdom of  
,yvetot1  ,viola ,rothomagensis1        
abundant on the hill of ,st4 ,adrien1   
,w4    ,walter1 archbishop of ,rouen1   
offended with ,richard ,coeur-de-,lion1 
proverbial for his cunning1  ,william   
,longue ,epe1 his monument and epitaph1 
,william the ,conqueror1 sailed from    
,st4 ,vallery to invade ,england1       
died in the palace on the ,mont aux     
,malades1  ,william of ,jumieges1 the   
original autograph of his history at    
,rouen1  ,windows1 rose1 characteristic 
of ,french ecclesiastical architecture1 
,y4    ,yainville1 church of1  ,yvetot1 
present appearance of1    said to have  
been formerly a kingdom1    exempt      

before the revolution from taxes1