,adv]tisem5t #a3 ,david ,bridge ,co41 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #b3 ,*as4 ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,adv]tisem5t #c3 ,fairbairn1 ,lawson ,combe ,b>b\r1 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #d3 ,rob]t ,hall ,sons ,adv]tisem5t #e3 ,a4 ,f4 ,craig ,co41 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #f3 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #g3 ,h4 ,sme?ur/ ,sons1 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #h3 ,:ite1 ,milne ,co4 ,adv]tisem5t #i3 ,?omas ,c4 ,keay1 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #aj3 ,rob]t ,/iv5 ,co4 ,,! ,,jute ,,indu/ry ,adv]tisem5t #aa3 ,pitman's ,commodities & ,indu/ries ,s]ies 7,book ,li/7 ,,pitman',s ,,common ,,commodities ,,& ,,indu/ries ,,s]ies ,,! ,,jute ,,indu/ry ,,f ,,se$ ,,to ,,f9i%$ ,,clo? ,,by ,t4 ,,woodh\se ,,head ,,( ,,! ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,dep>tm5t1 ,,dundee ,,te*nical ,,college ,,& ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art ,,=m]ly ,,manag] ,,messrs4 ,,walton ,,co41 ,,l95 ,,manufactur]s1 ,,blea*]s ,,& ,,f9i%]s1 ,,kn>esbor\gh4 ,,au?or ,,( ,,! ,,f9i%+ ,,( ,,jute ,,& ,,l95 ,,fabrics1 ,,healds ,,& ,,re$s ,,= ,,weav+3 ,,setts ,,& ,,port]s1 ,,jo9t ,,au?or ,,( ,,jute ,,& ,,l95 ,,weav+ ,,me*anism1 ,,textile ,,design3 ,,pure ,,& ,,appli$1 ,,jute ,,& ,,jute ,,sp9n+1 ,,cordage ,,& ,,cordage ,,hemp ,,& ,,fibres1 ,,textile ,,ma!matics1 ,,textile ,,draw+1 ,,etc41 ,,& ,p4 ,,kilg\r ,,head ,,( ,,! ,,sp9n+ ,,dep>tm5t1 ,,dundee ,,te*nical ,,college ,,& ,,s*ool ,,( ,,art ,,=m]ly ,,manag] ,,belfa/ ,,rope ,,works4 ,,jo9t ,,au?or ,,( ,,jute ,,& ,,jute ,,sp9n+1 ,,cordage ,,& ,,cordage ,,hemp ,,& ,,fibres1 ,,etc4 #aiba ,adv]tisem5t #ab3 ,george ,hatt]sley ,sons1 ,,ltd41 ,,preface ,! sub-title ( ?is little volume indicates t practically all ! processes involv$ 9 ! cultivation ( jute plants1 ! extraction ( ! fibre1 & ! trans=mation ( ! fibre into useful commodities1 h be5 consid]$4 ,9 addition1 e important bran* ( ?is wide indu/ry is lib]ally illu/rat$1 & ! description1 al?\gh n sev]ely te*nical1 is suffici5tly s to enable /ud5ts1 or ^? ) no previ\s k ( ! subject1 to foll[ ! op]ations intellig5tly1 & to become m or less acqua9t$ ) ! g5]al r\t9e ( jute manufacture4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! "w =ms a m$ium ( /udy = textile /ud5ts1 & a suitable introduction to ! m detail$ lit]ature by ! au?ors on ^! textile subjects4 ,t4 ,,woodh\se4 ,p4 ,,kilg\r4 ,m>*1 #aiba4 ,adv]tisem5t #ac3 ,j4 ,m4 ,adam ,co4 ,,cont5ts ,,*ap4 ,,preface ,i4 ,,introductory ,,ii4 ,,cultivation ,,iii4 ,,rett+ ,,iv4 ,,assort+ ,,& ,,bal+ ,,jute ,,fibre4 ,v4 ,,mill ,,op]ations ,,vi4 ,,bat*+ ,,vii4 ,,c>d+ ,,viii4 ,,draw+ ,,& ,,draw+ ,,frames ,,ix4 ,,! ,,rov+ ,,frame ,x4 ,,sp9n+ ,,xi4 ,,twi/+ ,,& ,,reel+4 ,,xii4 ,,w9d+3 ,,rolls ,,& ,,cops ,,xiii4 ,,w>p+1 ,,beam+ ,,& ,,dress+4 ,,xiv4 ,,ty+-,,on1 ,,draw+-,,9 ,,& ,,weav+ ,,xv4 ,,f9i%+ ,,index ,adv]tisem5t #ad3 ,james ,f4 ,l[ ,co41 ,,ltd4 ,,illu/rations ,,fig4 #a4 ,,natives ,,pl\gh+ ,,! ,,gr\nd #b4 ,,break+ ,,up ,,! ,,soil ,,or ,,ladd]+ #c4 ,,photomicrographs ,,( ,,cross-,,sections ,,( ,a ,,jute ,,plant #d4 ,,natives ,,c>ry+ ,,small ,,bales ,,( ,,jute ,,fibre ,,f ,,boat ,,to ,,press-,,h\se #e4 ,,natives ,,bail+ ,,jute ,,fibre ,,9 ,a ,,watson-,,fawcett ,,cyclone ,,press #f4 ,,vessel ,,lad5 ,,) ,,jute ,,at ,,quay-,,side ,,adjo9+ ,,jute ,,se$s ,,9 ,,dundee ,,h>b\r #g4 ,,h>b\r ,,port]s ,,remov+ ,,bales ,,( ,,jute ,,f ,,vessel ,,%[n ,,9 ,,fig4 #f #h4 ,,bale ,,op5] 7,,messrs4 ,,urquh>t1 ,,l9dsay ,,co41 ,,ltd47 #i4 ,,bale ,,op5] 7,,messrs4 ,,*>les ,,p>k]1 ,,sons ,,co41 ,,ltd7 #aj4 ,,h&-,,bat*+ ,,dep>tm5t ,,) ,,unprep>$ ,,& ,,prep>$ ,,fibre #aa4 ,,s(t5+ ,,ma*9e ,,)\t ,,bat*+ ,,app>atus #ab4 ,,bat*+ ,,app>atus #ac4 ,,s(t5+ ,,ma*9e ,,) ,,bat*+ ,,app>atus #ad4 ,,mod]n ,,break] ,,c>d #ae4 ,,f9i%] ,,c>d ,,) ,,draw+ ,,head #af4 ,,wa/e ,,teaz] #ag4 ,,pu%-,,b> ,,draw+ ,,frame #ah4 ,,rov+ ,,frame #ai4 ,,fairbairn',s ,,rov+ ,,frame ,,9 ,,"w #bj4 ,,an ,,indian ,,sp9n+ ,,flat #ba4 ,a ,,l9e ,,( ,,sp9n+ ,,frames #bb4 ,,bobb9 ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e 7,,f ,,hanks7 #bc4 ,,roll ,,w9d] ,,= ,,l>ge ,,rolls #bd4 ,,roll ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e 7,,f ,,hanks7 #be4 ,,cop ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e 7,,messrs4 ,,d\glas ,,fras] ,,sons1 ,,ltd47 #bf4 ,,cop ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e 7,,messrs ,,urquh>t1 ,,l9dsay ,,co41 ,,ltd47 #bg4 ,a ,,r[ ,,( ,,mod]n ,,w>p+ ,,mills4 #bh4 ,,p[] ,,*a9 ,,or ,,w>p ,,l9k+ ,,ma*9e #bi4 ,,w9d+-,,on ,,or ,,dry ,,beam+ ,,ma*9e #cj4 ,a ,,mod]n ,,y>n--,,dress+ ,,ma*9e ,,) ,,six ,,/eam-,,heat$ ,,cyl9d]s #ca4 ,,dress+ ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,prep>+ ,,two ,,w>ps ,,simultane\sly #cb1 ,,six ,,di/9ct ,,k9ds ,,( ,,typical ,,jute ,,fabrics #cc4 ,,po9t-,,pap] ,,designs ,,%[+ ,,weaves ,,= ,,v>i\s ,,clo?s4 #cd4 ,,diagrammatic ,,views ,,( ,,! ,,/ructure ,,( ,,pla9 ,,clo? #ce4 ,,weav+ ,,%$ ,,) ,,belt-,,driv5 ,,looms4 #cf4 ,,looms ,,driv5 ,,) ,,individual ,,motors #cg4 ,,bobby ,,loom #ch4 ,,brussels ,,& ,,wilton ,,c>pet ,,loom #ci4 ,,! ,,old ,,way #dj4 ,,! ,,new ,,way #da4 ,,cropp+ ,,ma*9e ,,at ,,"w #db4 ,,d\ble ,,cropp+ ,,ma*9e #dc4 ,,damp+ ,,ma*9e #dd4 ,,cal5d] #de4 ,,hydraulic ,,mangle #df4 ,,fold+1 ,,lapp+ ,,or ,,pleat+ ,,ma*9e #dg4 ,,crisp+1 ,,creas+ ,,or ,,rigg+ ,,ma*9e #dh1 ,,semi-,,me*anical ,,bag ,,or ,,sack ,,cutt+ ,,ma*9e #di4 ,,ov]head 7,,la+7 ,,sack ,,sew+ ,,ma*9e4 #ej4 ,,sack ,,pr9t+ ,,ma*9e4 ,,! ,,jute ,,indu/ry ,,f ,,se$ ,,to ,,f9i%$ ,,clo? ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,introductory ,! five ma9 fibres us$ = ord9>y textile purposes are cotton1 flax1 jute1 silk & wool2 9 ?is gr\p jute has be5 consid]$ 9 g5]al z be+ ( ! lea/ value1 n only 9 reg>d to price1 b also 9 reg>d to utility4 ,x is only "u ph5om5al conditions :i* arise f a great upheaval su* z t :i* took place dur+ ! _w's great w> f #aiad onw>ds t1 f a comm]cial po9t ( view1 ! extreme importance ( ! jute fibre & its products are fully realiz$4 ,millions ( s& bags 7 made f ! ye> #aiad to ! ye> #aiah solely = milit>y purposes1 :ile huge quantities ( jute clo? 7 utiliz$ z ! cov]+ mat]ial = food /uffs ( v>i\s k9ds1 ?us lib]at+ ! o!r textile fibres & clo? = equally important purposes4 ,x is on record t 9 "o %ort p]iod ( f\rte5 days1 #aej1jjj1jjj s&-bags 7 collect$1 pack$ & despat*$ f ,dundee to be us$ z protective elem5ts 9 v>i\s ways & seats ( conflict4 ,a glance into ! records ( ! textile indu/ries w reveal ! fact t ! jute fibre 0 practically unkn[n 9 ^! isl&s a hundr$ ye>s ago4 ,unsuccessful attempts 7 c]ta9ly made to import ! fibre into ,great ,brita9 9 ! latt] "p ( ! #ah? c5tury1 & x has be5 us$ 9 ,india = c5turies 9 ! mak+ ( cord1 tw9e & co>se fabrics1 because ! fibre is indig5\s to t c\ntry4 ,& s9ce all ! manufactur+ me?ods !re1 = a consid]able "t 7 manual ones1 ! indu/ry--if su* x c\ld be call$--mov$ along sl[ly1 provid+ employm5t only = ! ne$s ( a small section ( ! community on ! ,ea/]n %ores4 ,! fir/ small imports ( jute fibre 7 due to ! in/igation ( ,dr4 ,roxburgh & ! ,ea/ ,india ,company1 b x 0 only aft] repeat$ reque/s t any attempt 0 made to utilize ! samples ( jute = practical exp]im5ts ,! fibre 0 s unlike any ( ! exi/+ /aples t ^? int]e/$ 9 textiles 7 n anxi\s to exp]im5t ) x1 b ultimately !y 7 p]suad$ to d s2 ^! p]si/5t reque/s = trials1 & ! int]e/ :i* 0 f9ally ar\s$1 =m$ ! nucleus ( ! exi/+ important jute indu/ry4 ,ap>t f ! above-m5tion$ ef=ts1 ! introduction ( ! jute fibre into ,great ,brita9 0 delay$ until #ahbb1 :5 ! fir/ small consignm5t rea*$ ,dundee--n[ ! ,we/]n home ( ! jute indu/ry4 ,?is quantity 0 import$ into ?is c\ntry ) ! special object ( hav+ x treat$ by me*anical means1 mu* 9 ! same way z flax fibre 0 be+ treat$4 ,at ?is p]iod ,dundee 0 a comp>atively important textile c5tre 9 reg>d to ! sp9n+ & weav+ ( flax & hemp2 x 01 9 consequ5ce1 only natural t ! long]1 b o!rwise app>5tly simil> & co>s]1 jute fibre %\ld be submitt$ to ! ma*9]y 9 vogue = ! prep>ation & sp9n+ ( flax & hemp4 ,:5 we say simil>1 we mean 9 g5]al appe>ance2 x is n[ well-kn[n t !re is a consid]able diff]5ce betwe5 jute fibre & ^? ( hemp & flax1 & h5ce ! modifications 9 prep>ation :i* _h ultimately to be introduc$ to enable ! jute fibre to be successfully treat$4 ,^! modifications %all be discuss$ at a lat] /age4 ,x might be /at$ t :ile only #cfh cwt4 ( jute fibre 0 report$ z be+ %ipp$ f ,calcutta to ?is c\ntry 9 #ahbh1 ! imports gradually increas$ z "t pass$ on4 ,! y>ns :i* 7 made f ! fibre 7 heavi] or ?ick] ?an ^? 9 dem& = ! usual types ( clo?1 & x 0 desirable t o!r types ( clo? %\ld be introduc$ s t ^! y>ns c\ld be utiliz$4 ,ab\t ! ye> #ahch1 repres5tatives ( ! ,dut* ,gov]nm5t plac$ comp>atively l>ge ord]s ) ! manufactur]s = jute bags to be us$ = c>ry+ ! crop ( c(fee beans f _! ,we/ ,indian possessions4 ,! subsequ5t rapid gr[? ( ! indu/ry1 & ! dem& = new] types ( clo?1 are p]haps due m to ! above =tunate exp]im5t ?an to any o!r circum/ance4 ,by ! ye> or season #ahej-ea1 ! ,briti% imports ( jute fibre _h increas$ to ov] #bh1jjj tons1 & !y rea*$ #df1jjj tons 9 ! season #ahfj-fa4 ,att5tion mean:ile _h be5 direct$ to ! possibility ( manufactur+ jute goods by ma*9]y 9 ,india--! seat ( ! cultivation & gr[? ( ! fibre4 ,at lea/ su* a probability 0 anticipat$1 = 9 ! ye> #aheh a small consignm5t ( ma*9]y 0 despat*$ to ,calcutta1 & an attempt made to produce ! gunny bags :i* 7 typical ( ! ,indian native indu/ry4 ,! great diff]5ce betwe5 ! m or less unorganiz$ h& lab\r & ! ess5tial organization ( mod]n mills & factories soon became app>5t1 = 9 ! fir/ place x 0 difficult to induce ! natives to rema9 inside ! works dur+ ! p]iod ( tra9+1 & equally difficult to keep ! tra9$ op]atives con/antly employ$4 ,monet>y affairs induc$ !m to leave ! mills & factories = _! m usual mode ( liv+ 9 ! c\ntry4 ,9 ! face ( ^! difficulties1 h[ev]1 ! indu/ry grew 9 ,india z well z 9 ,dundee4 ,= sev]al ye>s be=e ! w>1 ! quantity ( raw jute fibre br\ght to ,dundee & o!r ,briti% ports am\nt$ to #bjj1jjj tons4 ,dur+ ! same p]iod prec$+ ! w>1 ne>ly #a1jjj1jjj tons 7 export$ to v>i\s c\ntries1 :ile ! ,indian annual consumption--due jo9tly to ! home indu/ry & ! mills 9 ! vic9ity ( ,calcutta--rea*$ ! same huge total ( "o million tons4 ,! gr[? ( ! jute indu/ry 9 sev]al p>ts ( ! _w1 & consequ5tly its gradually increas+ importance 9 reg>d to ! production ( y>ns & clo? = v>i\s purposes1 enables x to be rank$ z "o ( ! important indu/ries 9 ! textile gr\p1 & "o :i* may p]haps atta9 a mu* m important position 9 ! ne> future among/ our national manufactur+ processes4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 at ! pres5t "t1 huge ext5sions are contemplat$ & actually tak+ place 9 ,india4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,cultivation ,botanical & ,physical ,features ( ! ,plant4 ,jute fibre is obta9$ f two v>ieties ( plants :i* appe> to diff] only 9 ! %ape ( ! fruit or se$ vessel4 ,?us1 ! fruit ( ! v>iety ,cor*orus ,capsul>is is enclos$ 9 a capsule ( approximately circul> section1 :]eas ! fruit ( ! v>iety ,cor*orus ,olitorius is conta9$ 9 a pod4 ,bo? belong to ! ord] ,tiliacea1 & are annuals cultivat$ mo/ly 9 ,b5gal & ,assam4 ,o!r v>ieties are record$1 e4g4 ! ,cor*orus ,japonicus ( ,japan1 & ! ,cor*orus ,mompox5sis us$ 9 ,panama = mak+ a k9d ( tea1 :ile "o v>iety ( jute plant is ref]r$ to 9 ! book ( job z ! ,jew's ,mall[2 ?is v>iety ,c4 ,olitorius1 has be5 us$ 9 ! ,ea/ f "t immemorial z a pot h]b4 ,! two ma9 v>ieties ,c4 ,capsul>is & ,c4 ,olilorius are cultivat$ 9 ,b5gal = ! production ( fibre1 :ile = se$ purposes1 l>ge tracts ( l& are cultivat$ 9 ,assam1 & ! se$s export$ = use pr9cipally 9 ,mym5s+h & ,dacca4 ,! above two v>ieties ( ! jute plant v>y 9 height f #e to #ae feet1 &1 9 a normal season1 rea* maturity 9 ab\t f\r mon?s f ! "t ( s[+4 ,9 "s di/ricts ! /ems ( jute plants are sometimes r d>k 9 col\r1 b1 9 g5]al1 !y are gre5 or p9k1 & /raight ) a t5d5cy to bran*4 ,! leaves are alt]nate on ! /ems1 #d to #e in*es 9 l5g?1 & ab\t #a-a_/b in*es 9 bread? ) s]rat$ edges4 ,pale yell[ fl[]s spr+ f ! axil 7axilla7 ( ! leaves1 & !re is an abundance ( small se$s 9 ! fruit :i*1 z m5tion$1 is *>act]i/ic ( ! v>iety4 ,:ile _m attempts h be5 made to cultivate jute plants 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w1 ! results seem to indicate t ! necess>y conditions = ! successful cultivation ( !m are completely fulfill$ only 9 ! ,b5gal area1 & ! geographical position ( ?is prov9ce is ma9ly responsible = ^! conditions4 ,on ref]r+ to a map ( ,india1 x w be se5 t ,b5gal is directly nor? ( ! bay ( t "n1 & is b\nd$ on ! nor? by ! great ,himalayan m\nta9s4 ,dur+ ! w9t] p]iod :5 ! prevail+ w9ds are f ! nor?1 l>ge areas ( ! m\nta9\s regions are cov]$ ) sn[1 b :5 ! w9ds *ange & come f ! s\?1 & p>ticul>ly dur+ ! w>m] wea!r1 ! moi/ w>m air raises ! g5]al temp]ature & also melts mu* ( ! sn[ on ! m\nta9 tracts4 ,! ra9 & melt$ sn[ swell ! two great riv]s on ! ea/ & we/ ( ,b5gal--! ,patna & ! ,brahmaputra--& ! trem5d\s volume ( wat] c>ries d[n decay$ vegetable & animal matt] :i* is ultimately spread on ! flat areas ( ,b5gal z alluvial deposits1 & ?us provides an ideal lay] ( soil = ! propagation ( ! jute plants4 ,! cultivation ( l& = ! gr[+ ( jute plants is mo/ ext5sively conduct$ 9 ! c5tres bord]+ on ! c\rses ( ! riv]s1 & p>ticul>ly 9 ,mym5s+h1 ,dacca1 ,hooghly & ,pabna1 & :ile #ij p] c5t4 ( ! fibre is produc$ 9 ,b5gal1 ,orissa & ,bih>1 !re is #aj p] c5t4 produc$ outside ^! areas4 ,! ,cor*orus ,capsul>is v>iety is usually cultivat$ 9 ! high] & ri*] soils1 :ile ! ,cor*orus ,olitorius v>iety is mo/ suit$ = ! l[]-ly+ alluvial soils1 & to ! di/ricts :]e ! ra9fall is irregul>2 inde$1 ! ,c4 ,olitorius may be gr[n 9 c]ta9 o!r di/ricts ( ,india :i* appe> q unsuitable = ! ,c4 ,capsul>is4 ,! f>m+ op]ations 9 ,india are r simple :5 comp>$ ) ! correspond+ op]ations 9 ?is c\ntry2 !re is evid5tly n ! same necessity = ext5sive work+ ( ! ,indian soil z !re is = ! heavi] l&s2 ano!r reason = ! primitive ,ea/]n me?ods may be ! abs5ce ( horses4 ,! pl\ghs are made ( wood & fac$ ) iron4 ,bullocks1 9 teams ( two or m1 are h>ness$ to ! pl\gh z %[n 9 ,fig4 #a :]e a field is be+ pl\gh$ z a prelim9>y process 9 jute cultivation4 ,! bullocks draw ! pl\gh 9 mu* ! same way z horses d 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! op]ation ( pl\gh+ breaks up ! soil1 :ile ! r\gh clods may be brok5 by h& mallets or by ! use ( ! h5gha--a piece ( tree boll h>ness$ at ! ends to a pair ( bullocks4 ,! break+ up ( ! l& prep>es x = ! clean+ process :i* is p]=m$ by :at are t]m$ ladd]s2 ^! ladd]s are made ( a few bamboos fix$ cross-wise & provid$ ) project+ p9s to scrat* or op5 ! soil1 & to collect ! roots ( ! previ\s crop2 !y are ! equival5t ( our h>r[s1 & may be us$ repeat$ly dur+ ! w9t] & spr+ seasons s t a f9e til? may be produc$4 ,:5 manure is ess5tial1 x is appli$ 9 ! lat] pl\gh+s1 b o!r l>ge areas h artificial or *emical manures add$ at simil> /ages 9 ! process4 ,f>m-y>d manure is pref]r$1 b ca/or-cake & ! wat] hyac9?--a we$--con/itute good sub/itutes4 ,aft] ! soil has be5 satisfactorily prep>$1 ! se$ is s[n by h& at ! p]iod :i* appe>s mo/ suitable = ! p>ticul> di/rict4 ,! usual s[+ "t is f ,febru>y to ! end ( ,may1 & ev5 9 ,june 9 "s di/ricts :]e late crops c be obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a ,,natives ,,pl\gh+ ,,! ,,gr\nd ,!re are e>ly & late v>ieties ( ! plants1 & a c>efully judg$ di/ribution ( ! v>ieties ( se$ ov] ! di/ricts = ! gr[+ p]iod w n only yield a succession ( crops = easy h>ve/+1 b w also help ! f>m] 9 ! selection ( se$s = o!r areas :]e atmosph]ic conditions diff]4 ,x is a good practice1 :]e possible1 to s[ ! se$ 9 two directions at "r angles to ea* o!r1 & ?us secure z uni=m a di/ribution z possible4 ,! am\nt ( se$ us$ dep5ds p>tly ^u ! di/rict1 & 9 g5]al f #aj lbs4 to #cj lbs4 p] acre are s[n4 ,! se$ may co/ ab\t #h annas or m p] s] 7ab\t #b lbs474 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b ,,break+ ,,up ,,! ,,soil1 ,,or ,,ladd]+ ,plants %\ld be specially cultivat$ = ! production ( se$ 9 ord] to obta9 ! be/ results f ^! se$s = fibre plants4 ,_m ( ! ryots 7f>m]s7 use se$ :i* has be5 collect$ f plants gr[n f inf]ior se$1 or f odd & (t5 poor plants2 !y also gr[ plants ye> aft] ye> on ! same soil4 ,! fibres obta9$1 z a rule1 & z a result ( ?is me?od ( obta9+ se$s1 gradually det]iorate2 mu* bett] results accrue :5 succession ( crops & *ange ( se$ are c>efully att5d$ to4 ,if ! wea!r conditions are fav\rable1 ! se$s w g]m9ate 9 #h to #aj days1 aft] :i* ! plants gr[ rapidly4 ,! heat & %[]s ( ra9 comb9$ soon =m a cru/ on ! soil :i* %\ld be brok52 ?is is done by means ( ano!r ladd] provid$ ) long p9s1 & ,fig4 #b illu/rates ! op]ation 9 process4 ,?is second ladd]+ process op5s up ! soil & all[s ! moi/ure & heat to ent]4 ,! "y plants are n[ ?9n$1 & ! gr\nd we$$ p]iodically1 until ! plants rea* a suffici5t height or /r5g? to prev5t ! words f spread+4 ,! space betwe5 ! gr[+ plants w v>y accord+ to ! region2 if !re is a t5d5cy to sl[ gr[?1 !re is an abundance ( plants2 :]eas1 ! ?9n+ is mo/ sev]e :]e ! plants %[ prospects ( gr[+ ?ick & tall4 ,9 a normal season ! plants w rea* maturity 9 ab\t #c #a_/b to #d mon?s f ! "t ( s[+4 ,al?\gh diff]5t op9ions are held z to ! be/ "t = h>ve/+1 t :5 ! fruits are sett+ appe>s to be mo/ 9 fav\r2 plants h>ve/$ at ?is /age usually yield a l>ge quantity ( good fibre :i* c be p]fectly clean$1 & :i* is ( good sp9n+ quality4 ,! plants are cut d[n by h& & ) home-made knives2 9 g5]al1 ^! knives are ( crude manufacture1 b !y appe> to be q suitable = ! purpose4 ,a field ( jute plants ready = cutt+ w c]ta9ly =m a delightful picture1 b ! prospect ( ! op]ation ( cutt+ indicates a =midable piece ( "w s9ce x requires ab\t #aj to #ad tons ( ! gre5 crop to produce ab\t #aj to #ae cwt4 ( clean dry fibre4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,rett+ ,! me?od ( sep>at+ ! ba/ lay] 79 :i* ! fibres are emb$d$7 f ! /em ( ! plant requires a l>ge supply ( wat]1 s9ce ! plants mu/ be completely subm]g$ 9 ! wat] = a p]iod v>y+ f #h to #cj days2 su* "t is dep5d5t ^u ! p]iod ( ! ye> & ^u ! di/rict 9 :i* ! op]ation is p]=m$4 ,! above op]ation ( deta*+ ! ba/ lay] f ! /em is te*nically kn[n z rett+1 & a good type ( rett+ or /eep+ place is an (f-set ( a run1 bran*1 or /ream :]e ! wat] moves sl[ly1 or ev5 rema9s at re/1 dur+ ! "t ! plants are "u treatm5t4 ,! dis9tegration ( ! /ructural "p ( ! plant is due to a bact]ial action1 & gas is giv5 (f dur+ ! op]ation4 ,! f>m]1 or ryot1 & 8 m5 "k :at progress ! action is mak+ by ! pres5ce ( ! air bells :i* rise to ! surface2 :5 ! =mation ( air bells ceases1 ! m5 exam9e ! plants daily to see t ! op]ation does n g too f>1 o!rwise ! fibr\s lay] w\ld be injur$1 & ! result+ fibre weak4 ,! /ems are te/$ 9 ^! exam9ations to see if ! fibr\s lay]1 or ba/ lay]1 w /rip (f clean f ! wood or /em4 ,:5 ! ryot consid]s t ! lay]s are sep>at$ f ! core suffici5tly easy1 ! "w ( /eep+ ceases1 & ! process ( /ripp+ is comm5c$ imm$iately4 ,?is latt] process is conduct$ 9 v>i\s ways dep5d+ ^u ! practice 9 vogue 9 ! di/rict4 ,9 "o area ! m5 "w among/ ! wat] break+ up ! woody /ructure ( ! rett$ plants by means ( mallets & cross rails fix$ to uprights 9 ! wat]2 o!rs break ! /ems by h&2 :ile 9 o!r cases ! /ems are h&$ out ( ! wat] to wom5 :o /rip (f ! fibr\s lay] & pres]ve intact ! c5tral core or /raw to be us$ ultimately = ?at*+4 ,! /rips ( fibre are all clean$ & rubb$ 9 ! wat] to remove all ! vegetable impurities1 & f9ally ! fibre is dri$1 usually by hang+ x ov] poles & protect+ x f ! direct rays ( ! sun4 ,if ! wat] supply is defici5t 9 ! vic9ity :]e ! plants are gr[n1 x may be advantage\s to convey ! fibr\s lay]s to "s o!r place provid$ ) a bett] supply ( wat] = ! f9al wa%+ & dry+2 imp]fect rett+ & clean+ are apt to create defects 9 ! fibre1 & to cause consid]able tr\ble or difficulties 9 subsequ5t bran*es ( ! indu/ry4 ,fig4 #c illu/rates photomicrographs ( cross sections ( a jute plant4 ,! l[] illu/ration repres5ts approximately "o qu>t] ( a complete cross section4 ,! c5tral "p ( ! /em or pi? is lett]$ ,a2 ! next wide r+ ,b is ! woody matt]2 ! out] cov]+ or cuticle is m>k$ ,c2 :ile ! actual fibr\s lay] appe>s betwe5 ! p>ts ,b & ,c1 & "s ( ! fibres are indicat$ by ,d4 ,! arr[s %[ ! correspond+ p>ts 9 ! ?ree di/9ct views4 ,! middle illu/ration %[s an enl>g$ view ( a small "p ( ! l[e/ view1 :ile ! upp] illu/ration is a fur!r enl>g$ view ( a small section ( ! middle view4 ,x w be se5 t ea* gr\p ( fibres is surr\nd$ by vegetable matt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c ,,photomicrographs ,,( ,,cross ,,sections ,,( ,a ,,jute ,,plant ,ano!r me?od ( /ripp+ ! fibr\s lay] (f ! /ems or /alks1 & "o :i* is practis$ 9 c]ta9 di/ricts ) ! object ( pres]v+ ! /raws1 consi/s 9 break+ (f a small portion1 say "o foot1 at ! top end ( ! /em2 ! op]ative !n grasps ! tops by ! h& & %akes ! plants to & fro 9 ! wat]1 ?us loos5+ ! p>ts1 aft] :i* ! /raws float out1 leav+ ! fibr\s lay] free4 ,! /raws are collect$ = future use1 :ile ! fibre is clean$ & wa%$ 9 ! usual way4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,assort+ ,,& ,,bal+ ,,jute ,,fibre ,! ,indian raw jute trade is conduct$ "u v>i\s conditions4 ,! me?od ( m>ket+ may be ( su* a nature t ! f>m]s 9 "s di/ricts may h to make a r\gh assortm5t ( ! fibre into a numb] ( qualities or grades1 & ^! grades are well kn[n 9 ! p>ticul> areas2 on ! o!r h&1 ! f>m]s may pref] to sell ! total yield ( fibre at an ov]head price p] maund4 ,a maund is approximately equal to #h lbs41 & ?is quantity =ms a comp>atively small bundle4 ,9 o!r cases1 ! fibre is made up into :at is kn[n z a drum2 ?is is a h&-pack$ bale ( f #a #a_/b to #c or #c #a_/b maunds2 x is a v conv5i5t size = transit 9 ,india4 ,practically "o half ( ! total jute crop1 ( #i to #aj million bales ( #djj lbs4 ea*1 is us$ 9 ,india1 & ! rema9+ half is bal$ = export to ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w2 a little ov] "o million bales are export$ annually to ,great ,brita91 ! bulk ( ?is fibre comes to ,dundee4 ,x is practically impossible = =eign pur*as]s to see ! mat]ial at ! assort+ /ations1 b ! /&>diz$ me?od ( assort+ & grad+ enables a pur*as] to =m a v good idea ( ! quality ( ! fibre1 & its suitability or o!rwise = special types ( y>n & clo?4 ,?us1 a =m ( select+ & grad+ has be5 e/abli%$ on a basis t provides a v l>ge am\nt ( jute ea* ye> ( a quality :i* is kn[n z a fir/ m>k4 ,a m>k1 9 g5]al1 9 ref]5ce to fibre1 is simply "s symbol1 "n1 lett]1 monogram or ! l1 or a comb9ation ( two or m1 (t-times ) ref]5ce to "s col\r1 to di/+ui% ! orig9 ( ! fibre1 ! bal]1 or ! m]*ant4 ,9 normal ye>s !re is also a l>ge quantity ( fibre ( a bett] quality ?an :at is kn[n z fir/ m>k1 & ?is bett] quality is t]m$ f9e jute2 :ile !re is yet a fur!r lot1 ! quality ( :i* is bel[ ^! good ones4 ,s9ce !re are hundr$s ( diff]5t m>ks :i* are ( value only to ^? connect$ directly ) ! trade1 x is unnecess>y to dwell on ! subject4 ,! foll[+ li/1 h[ev]1 %[s quotations ( v>i\s k9ds1 & is tak5 f ! ,m>ket ,report ( ! ,dundee ,adv]tis] ( ,m>*1 #aibj4 ,! price ( jute1 l almo/ ev]y?+ else1 0 at ?is date v high1 s 9 ord] to make comp>isons ) ! #aibj & normal prices1 we introduce ! prices = ! correspond+ grade1 fir/ m>ks1 = ! same mon? 9 ! ye>s #aiae onw>ds4 ,,jute ,,prices1 ,,9 ,,m>* ,fir/ ,m>ks ,ye>4 ,price p] ton4 4 s4 d4 4 s4 d4 #aiae #bg to #ce #ae #aiaf #dd #aiag #db #aj #aiah #ea #aiai #di #aibj #gj 7spot7 ,x is necess>y to /ate t ! assort+ & bal+s are g5]ally s uni=m t ! trade c be conduct$ q satisfactorily ) ! aid ( ! usual safegu>ds "u contract1 & gu>antees reg>d+ ! prop]ties ( ! fibre4 ,aft] ^! assort+ op]ations are complet$1 ! jute fibre is made up into bundles or bojahs ( #bjj lbs4 ea*1 & two ( ^! #bjj lb4 bundles are subsequ5tly made up into a /&>d bale1 ! weight ( :i* is #djj lbs4 ,?is weight includes a p]mitt$ quantity ( b9d+ rope1 up to #f lbs4 9 weight1 :ile ! dim5sions 9 ! bal+ press ( ! #djj lb4 bale are #d'a ,x #a'f ,x #a' #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d ,,natives ,,c>ry+ ,,small ,,bales ,,( ,,jute ,,fibre ,,f ,,boat ,,to ,,press ,,h\se ,l>ge quantities ( ! small] & loosely-pack$ bales are convey$ f ! v>i\s places by boats to ! bal+ h\ses or press h\ses z !y are t]m$4 ,^! are v l>ge e/abli%m5ts1 & huge /affs ( op]atives are necess>y to deal rapidly & effici5tly ) ! l>ge numb] ( bales4 ,9 ,fig4 #d scores ( natives1 sup]9t5d$ by a ,european1 are se5 c>ry+ ! small] bales on _! heads f ! riv] boat to ! press h\se4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 unnecess>y to make ! solid #djj lb4 bales = ,indian consumption2 ?is practice is usually obs]v$ only = jute :i* is to be export$1 & all su* bales are weigh$ & measur$ at ! bal+ /ation by a ,*amb] ( ,comm]ce exp]t4 ,mo/ ( ! bal+ presses us$ 9 ! press h\ses 9 ! ,calcutta di/rict are made 9 ,liv]pool1 & are provid$ ) ! mo/ effici5t type ( pumps & me*anical p>ts4 ,fig4 #e illu/rates "o ( ^! huge presses ) a numb] ( natives 9 close proximity4 ,two or ?ree di/9ct op]ations are conduct$ simultane\sly by diff]5t gr\ps ( op]atives1 & +5i\s me*anism is ess5tial = ! successful prosecution ( ! "w4 ,two su* presses z t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #e are capable1 "u effici5t adm9i/ration1 ( turn+ out #acj bales ( #djj lbs4 ea* 9 "o h\r4 ,! fibre is compress$ into comp>atively small bulk by hydraulic pressure equal to #f1jjj lbs4 p] squ>e in*1 & no pack$ bale mu/ exce$ 9 cubical capacity #aa cubic feet aft] x leaves ! press2 x is usual = freight purposes to reckon #e bales or #ee cubic feet p] ton4 7,n[ *ang$ to #ej cubic feet47 ,! jute bales are load$ ei!r at ! :>f or 9 ! riv] f b>ges into l>ge /eam]s1 _m ( :i* c>ry f #cj1jjj to #df1jjj bales 9 "o c>go to ! ,european ports4 ,"o vessel br\ght #gj1jjj bales4 ,z already m5tion$1 jute is sold "u gu>antees z to quality1 & all disputes mu/ be settl$ by arbitration4 ,al?\gh ?is is ! usual me?od ( sale1 x is n uncommon = quantities ( jute to be %ipp$ unsold1 & su* quantities may be dispos$ ( on ! ,spot4 ,x is a common practice to sell a numb] ( bales to sample1 su* numb] dep5d+ g5]ally ^u ! ext5t ( ! quantity1 or p>cel1 z x is (t5 call$4 ,! contract =ms are v complete1 & enable ! bus9ess to be conduct$ to ! satisfaction ( all conc]n$ 9 ! trade4 ,,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e ,,natives ,,bail+ ,,jute ,,fibre ,,9 ,a ,,watson-,,fawcett ,,cyclone ,,press ,x w be und]/ood t1 9 ! ye>ly production ( su* a l>ge quantity ( jute fibre f v>i\s di/ricts1 & obta9$ f plants :i* h be5 gr[n "u v>iable climatic & agricultural conditions1 9 "s cases ! fibre w be ( ! f9e/ type procurable1 :ile 9 o!r cases x w be ( a v indiff]5t type & unsuitable = use 9 ! production ( ! ord9>y classes ( y>ns & fabrics4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x %\ld be /at$ t !re is su* a wide range ( goods manufactur$1 & additional v>ieties occasionally introduc$1 t x appe>s possible to utilize all ! k9ds ( fibre 9 any ye>2 inde$1 x seems z if ! available types ( fibre ea* season create dem&s = a correspond+ type ( manufactur$ product4 ,! crops produc$ w1 obvi\sly1 v>y 9 am\nt & value annually1 b a few figures w help ! read] to e/imate 9 "s degree ! ext5t ( ! indu/ry & its developm5t 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w4 ,,exports ,,( ,,jute ,,f ,,india ,ye>4 ,tons4 ,bales4 #ahbh #ah #cjj lbs_/bale #ahcb #ahb #cjj lbs_/bale #ahcc #cjj #cjj lbs_/bale #ahcd #hbh #cjj lbs_/bale #ahce #a1bbb #cjj lbs_/bale #ahcf #af #cjj lbs_/bale #ahcg #aga #cjj lbs_/bale ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f ,,vessel ,,lad5 ,,) ,,jute ,,at ,,quay-,,side ,,adjo9+ ,,jute ,,%$s ,,9 ,,dundee ,,h>b\r ,,jute ,,production ,,9 ,,india ,season4 ,tons4 ,bales 7#djj lbs474 #ahej-ea4 #bh1bdg #aeh1ahc #ahfj-fa4 #df1ahb #beh1fai #ahfb-fc4 #ajh1ggf #fji1adf #ahfc-fd4 #abe1ijc #gjg1jef #ahgb-gc4 #djf1cce #b1bge1dgf #ahhj-ha4 #cdc1eif #a1ibd1acg #ahhf-hg4 #dac1ffd #b1caf1eah #ahib-ic4 #ehf1beh #c1jhc1jbc #ahif-ig4 #ehh1ada #c1bic1eia #aijb-jc4 #ehj1ifg #c1bec1dad #aijf-jg4 #hbi1bgc #d1fdc1ibi #aijg-jh4 #a1gfa1ihb #i1hfg1ajj #aijh-ji4 #a1ace1hef #f1cfj1hjj #aiji-aj4 #a1cjb1ghb #g1bie1ehj #aiaj-aa #a1dcd1bhf #h1jcb1jjj #aiaa-ab4 #a1dhh1cci #h1ccd1gjj #aiab-ac4 #a1gah1ahj #i1fba1hbi #aiac-ad4 #a1ehj1fgd #h1hea1gge #aiad-ae4 #a1hih1dhc #aj1fca1eje #aiae-af4 #a1cdd1dag #g1ebh1gcc #aiaf-ag4 #a1dic1igf #h1cff1bff #aiag-ah4 #a1fjg1ibb #i1jjd1cfd #aiah-ai4 #a1bgh1dbe #g1aei1ahj #aiai-bj4 #a1edb1agh #h1fcf1bjj ,a l>ge vessel conta9+ bales ( jute is b]!d on ! quay-side adjo9+ ! jute %$s 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,! bales are rais$ quickly f ! hold by means ( a hydraulic-eng9e1 sc>cely visible 9 ,fig4 #f s9ce x is at ! f> end ( ! vessel1 b se5 cle>ly 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,:5 ! bales are rais$ suffici5tly high1 !y are guid$ to ! comp>atively /eep "p ( a *ute f :i* !y desc5d to ! m horizontal "p z exemplifi$ 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,!y are !n remov$ by means ( h&-c>ts z %[n1 tak5 into ! %$1 & pil$ or /or$ 9 "s suitable arrangem5t ) or )\t ! aid ( a crane4 ,motor & o!r lorries are !n us$ to convey ! bales to ! v>i\s mills :]e ! fir/ actual process 9 :at is t]m$ sp9n+ takes place4 ,x w be und]/ood t ! bales are /or$ 9 ! sp9n]'s own /ores aft] hav+ be5 deliv]$ z /at$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,h>b\r ,,port]s ,,remov+ ,,bales ,,( ,,jute ,,f ,,! ,,vessel ,,%[n ,,9 ,,fig4 #f ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,mill ,,op]ations ,bale ,op5+4 ,ea* sp9n]1 z already indicat$1 /ores 8 bales ( jute ( v>i\s m>ks1 i4e4 qualities1 9 a conv5i5t mann]1 & 9 a /ore or w>eh\se f :i* any requir$ numb] ( bales ( ea* m>k c be quickly remov$ to ! prep>+ dep>tm5t ( ! mill4 ,9 ! wooll5 indu/ry1 ! t]m bl5d+ is us$ to indicate ! mix+ ( diff]5t v>ieties ( mat]ial 7z well z diff]5t k9ds ( fibres7 = ! purpose ( obta9+ a mixture suitable = ! prep>+ & sp9n+ ( a def9ite quality & col\r ( mat]ial4 ,9 mu* ! same way1 ! t]m bat*+ is us$ 9 ! jute indu/ry1 al?\gh x w be se5 %ortly t a m ext5sive use is made ( ! ^w4 ,a bat*1 9 its simple/ def9ition1 !re=e indicates a numb] ( bales :i* is suitable = subsequ5t h&l+ 9 ! ,bat*+ ,dep>tm5t4 ,?is numb] may include #e1 #f1 #g or m bales ( jute accord+ to ! am\nt ( accommodation 9 ! prep>+ dep>tm5t4 ,all ! above bales ( a bat* may be compos$ ( ! same /&>d quality ( jute1 al?\gh ! m>ks may be diff]5t4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t al?\gh ! m>ks h a di/9ct ref]5ce to quality & col\r1 !y actually repres5t "s p>ticul> firm or firms ( bal]s or m]*ants4 ,at o!r times1 ! bat* ( #e to #aj bales may be compos$ ( diff]5t qualities ( jute1 ! numb] ( ea* k9d dep5d+ p>tly ^u ! f9i%$ price ( ! y>n1 p>tly ^u ! col\r1 & p>tly ^u ! sp9n+ prop]ties ( ! comb9ation4 ,x w be und]/ood t ! purpose = :i* ! f9i%$ y>n is to be us$ w det]m9e l>gely ! *oice ( ! bales = any p>ticul> bat*4 ,= example1 to ref] to a simple diff]5tiation1 ! y>n :i* is to be us$ = ! w>p ?reads 9 ! weav+ ( clo? mu/1 9 ne>ly e case1 h prop]ties :i* diff] 9 "s respects f ! y>n :i* is to be us$ z weft = ! same clo?4 ,on ! :ole1 x w be f\nd advantage\s1 :5 ! same grade ( jute is requir$1 to select a bat* f diff]5t bal]s' m>ks s t ?r\gh\t ! v>i\s seasons an av]age quality may be produc$4 ,! same class ( y>n is expect$ at all times ( ! ye>1 b x is well kn[n t ! prop]ties ( any "o m>k may v>y f "t to "t ow+ to ! slight v>iations 9 ! manipulation ( ! fibre at ! f>ms1 & to ! v>iations ( ! wea!r dur+ ! "t ( gr[?1 & dur+ ! season g5]ally4 ,a li/ ( ! bales = ! bat* is s5t to ! bat*+ dep>tm5t1 ?is li/ be+ kn[n z a bat*-ticket4 ,! bales are1 ( c\rse1 def9$ by _! m>ks1 & ^? m5tion$ on ! bat*-ticket mu/ be rigidly adh]$ to = "o p>ticul> class ( y>n2 if !re is any *ance ( "o k9d runn+ %ort1 ! condition %\ld be notifi$ 9 "t s t a suitable m>k may be select$ to take its place )\t effect+ any great *ange 9 ! "* or quality ( ! y>n4 ,:5 ! numb] & k9d ( bales h be5 select$ & remov$ f ! gr\ps or p>cels 9 ! /ore or w>eh\se1 !y are convey$ to ! bat*+ dep>tm5t1 & plac$ 9 a suitable position ne> ! fir/ ma*9e 9 ! s]ies4 ,x ne$ h>dly be m5tion$ t s9ce ! fibre1 dur+ ! op]ation ( bal+1 is subject$ to su* a high hydraulic pressure1 ! bale pres5ts a v solid & h>d appe>ance1 see ,fig4 #g1 = ! v>i\s s-call$ heads ( fibre h be5 squeez$ toge!r & =c$ into a v small bulk4 ,9 su* a /ate1 ! heads are q unfitt$ = ! actual bat*+ op]ation2 !y require to be op5$ out some:at s t ! fibres w be m or less sep>at$ f ea* o!r4 ,?is op]ation is t]m$ op5+ & ! process is conduct$ 9 :at is kn[n z a bale op5]1 "o type ( :i* is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #h1 & made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee4 ,! v>i\s bales ( ! bat* are arrang$ 9 a suitable mann] ne> ! fe$ side ( ! ma*9e1 on ! left 9 ! view1 s t !y c be h&l$ to ! be/ advantage4 ,! b&s or ropes1 see ,fig4 #g1 are remov$ f ! bale 9 ord] t ! heads or l>ge pieces ( jute c be sep>at$4 ,if any irregul>ity 9 ! selection ( ! heads f ! diff]5t bales ( ! bat* takes place 9 ?is fir/ selection ( ! heads ( jute1 ! faulty h&l+ may affect subsequ5t op]ations 9 su* a way t no *ance ( correct+ ! defect c occur2 x %\ld be not$ at ?is /age t if !re are slight v>iations ( any k9d 9 ! fibres1 x is advisable to make special ef=ts to obta9 a good av]age mixture2 z a matt] ( fact1 x is wise to insi/ ^u a judici\s selection 9 e case4 ,! usual v>iations are--! col\r ( ! fibre1 its /r5g?1 & ! pres5ce ( c]ta9 impurities su* z /ick1 root1 b>k or specks2 if ! pieces ( jute1 :i* are affect$ adv]sely by any ( ! above1 are c>efully mix$ ) ! o!rwise p]fect fibre1 mo/ ( ! faults may disappe> z ! fibre proce$s on its way ?r\gh ! diff]5t ma*9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h ,,bale ,,op5] ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd4 ,! lay]s ( heads are (t5 beat5 ) a heavy sl$ge hamm] 9 h& bat*+1 b = ma*9e bat*+ a bale op5] is us$1 & ?is op]ation con/itutes ! prelim9>y op5+4 ,z already indicat$1 ! heads ( jute are f$ into ! ma*9e f ! left 9 ,fig4 #h1 ea* head be+ laid on a travell+ fe$ clo? :i* c>ries ! heads ( jute successively betwe5 a pair ( fe$ roll]s f :i* !y are deliv]$ to two pairs ( v deeply-flut$ cru%+ roll]s or break]s4 ,! la/ pair ( deep-flut$ roll]s is se5 cle>ly on ! "r 9 ! figure4 ,^! two pairs ( heavy roll]s cru% & b5d ! compress$ heads ( jute & deliv] !m 9 a mu* s(t] condition to ! deliv]y %eet on ! "r4 ,! deliv]y %eet is an endless clo? :i* has a cont9u\s motion1 & ?us ! s(t5$ heads are c>ri$ to ! extreme "r1 at :i* position !y are tak5 f ! %eet by ! op]atives4 ,! upp] roll]s 9 ! ma*9e may rise 9 _! be>+s aga9/ ! d[nw>d pressure ( ! volute spr+s on ! be>+s2 ?is provision is ess5tial because ( ! ?ick & ?9 places ( ! heads4 ,a diff]5t type ( bale op5]1 made by ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons1 ,co41 ,dundee1 & design$ f ! ,but*>t pat5t is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #i4 ,x diff]s ma9ly f ! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #h 9 ! %ape ( ! cru%+ or op5+ roll]s4 ,x w be se5 on ref]r+ to ! illu/ration t !re are ?ree cru%+ roll]s1 "o l>ge c5tral roll] on ! top & situat$ betwe5 two l[] b small] roll]s4 ,ea* roll] has a s]ies ( knobs project+ f a numb] ( p>allel r+s4 ,! knobs are s arrang$ t !y =ce !mselves into ! h>d lay]s ( jute1 &1 9 addition to ?is action1 ! heads ( jute h to b5d p>tially r\nd ! l>g] roll] z !y are pass+ betwe5 ! roll]s4 ,?is d\ble action naturally aids 9 op5+ up ! mat]ial1 & ! ma*9e1 :i* is bo? novel & effective1 gives excell5t results 9 practice4 ,! degree ( pressure provid$ = ! top roll] may be v>i$ to suit diff]5t conditions ( heads ( jute by ! numb] ( weights :i* are %[n cle>ly 9 ! highe/ "p ( ! ma*9e 9 ! =m ( two sets ( heavy discs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i ,,bale ,,op5] ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons1 ,co4 ,! driv+ side1 ! fe$ clo?1 & ! deliv]y clo? 9 ?is ma*9e are plac$ simil>ly to ! correspond+ p>ts ( ! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #h1 a ma*9e :i* also gives good results 9 practice4 ,9 bo? cases ! l>ge heads are deliv]$ 9 su* a condition t ! op]atives c split !m up into pieces ( a suitable size q freely4 ,! m5 :o br+ 9 ! bales f ! /ore take up a position ne> ! end ( ! deliv]y clo?2 !y remove ! heads ( jute z ! latt] approa* ! end ( ! table1 & !n pass !m to ! bat*]s1 :o split !m4 ,! mo/ suitable size ( pieces are #b-a_/b to #c lbs4 = a piece ( #g feet to #h feet 9 l5g?1 b ! size ( ! pieces is regulat$ some:at by ! sy/em ( fe$+ :i* is to be adopt$ at ! break]-c>d1 z well z by ! manag]'s op9ion ( :at w give ! be/ ov]all result4 ,aft] ! heads ( jute h be5 split up into suitable small] pieces1 !y are plac$ 9 any conv5i5t position = ! bat*] or /rik]-up to deal )4 ,if ! read] c\ld wat* ! above op]ation ( sep>at+ ! heads ( jute into suitable sizes1 x w\ld p]haps be mu* easi] to und]/& ! process ( unravell+ an app>5tly matt$ & cross$ mass ( fibre4 ,z ! loos5$ head em]ges f ! bale-op5]1 ,figs4 #h or #i1 x is plac$ ov] ! op]ative's arm ) ! ends ( ! head hang+1 & by a sort ( intuition acquir$ by great exp]i5ce1 %e or he grips ! correct am\nt ( fibre betwe5 ! f+]s1 & by a dext]\s movem5t1 & a simultane\s %ake ( ! :ole piece1 ! h&ful j comes cle> ( ! bulk & 9 mu* less "t ?an x takes to describe ! op]ation4 ,z ! pieces are ?us deta*$ f ! bulk1 !y are laid on /ools or tables1 or 9 /alls or c>ts1 accord+ to ! me?od by means ( :i* ! necess>y am\nt ( oil & wat] is to be add$ = ! ess5tial process ( lubrication2 ?is lubrication enables ! fibre to "w freely 9 ! v>i\s ma*9es4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,,bat*+ ,s(t5+ & ,s(t5+ ,ma*9es4 ,two di/9ct c\rses are foll[$ 9 ! prep>ation ( ! jute fibre aft] x leaves ! bale op5]1 & be=e x is c>d$ by ! break] c>d4 ,^! c\rses are designat$ z-- #a4 ,h& ,bat*+4 #b4 ,ma*9e ,bat*+4 ,9 ! =m] process1 :i* is n l>gely practis$1 ! pieces ( jute are neatly d\bl$1 :ile imp>t+ a slight twi/1 to facilitate subsequ5t h&l+1 & laid 9 lay]s 9 l>ge c>ts :i* c be :eel$ f place to place2 if ?is me?od is n conv5i5t1 ! pieces are d\bl$ simil>ly & deposit$ 9 l>ge /alls su* z ^? illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #aj4 ,on ! completion ( ea* lay]1 or sometimes two lay]s1 ! necess>y measur$ am\nt ( oil is ev5ly spray$ by h& ov] ! pieces f cans provid$ ) suitable p]=at$ outlets--usually long tubes4 ,aft] ! oil has be5 add$1 wat]1 f a simil> spray] atta*$ by tub+ to a wat] tap1 is add$ until ! att5dant has appli$ :at he or %e consid]s is ! prop] quantity4 ,! ratio betwe5 a measur$ am\nt ( oil & an unmeasur$ am\nt ( wat] is ?us some:at v>i$1 & = ?is reason ! above me?od is n to be comm5d$4 ,a consci5ti\s work] c1 h[ev]1 ) judgm5t1 introduce satisfactory proportions :i* are1 ( c\rse1 suppli$ by ! p]son 9 *>ge4 ,9 ,fig4 #aj1 ! tank on ! "r is :]e ! oil is /or$1 :ile ! oil c1 & ! spray-pipe & tube = wat]1 are %[n ne> ! second po/ or p>tition on ! "r4 ,,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj ,,h&-,,bat*+ ,,dep>tm5t ,,) ,,unprep>$ ,,& ,,prep>$ ,,fibre ,! fir/ /all--t next to ! oil tank--9 ,fig4 #aj is fill$ ) ! prep>$ pieces1 & ! cont5ts are all[$ to rema9 !re = "s "t1 say #bd h\rs1 9 ord] t ! mat]ial may be m or less uni=mly lubricat$ or condition$4 ,at ! end ( ?is "t1 ! pieces are ready to be convey$ to & f$ into ! s(t5+ ma*9es :]e ! fibres und]go a fur!r process ( b5d+ & cru%+4 ,all s(t5+ ma*9es = jute1 or s(t5]s z !y are (t5 call$1 are simil> 9 con/ruction1 b ! numb] ( pairs ( roll]s v>ies accord+ to circum/ances & to ! op9ions ( manag]s4 ,?us1 ! s(t5] illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #aa1 :i*1 9 ! =m %[n1 is int5d$ to treat jute f ! above-m5tion$ /alls1 is made ) #dg1 #ee1 #fc or #ga pairs ( roll]s or any o!r numb] :i*1 m9us #a1 is a measure ( #h4 ,! sections are made 9 #h's4 ,! illu/ration %[s only #ca pairs4 ,! fir/ pair ( roll]s--t next to ! fe$ %eet 9 ! =egr\nd ( ,fig4 #aa--;is provid$ ) /raight flutes z cle>ly %[n4 ,all ! o!r roll]s1 h[ev]1 are provid$ ) oblique flutes1 su* flutes mak+ a small angle ) ! horizontal4 ,:at is (t5 consid]$ z a /&>d s(t5+ ma*9e conta9s #fc pairs ( flut$ roll]s besides ! usual fe$ & deliv]y roll]s4 ,z m5tion$ above1 ?is numb] is v>i$ accord+ to circum/ances4 ,! lubricat$ pieces ( jute are f$ on to ! fe$ roll] %eet1 & h5ce und]go a consid]able am\nt ( b5d+ 9 diff]5t ways be=e !y em]ge f ! deliv]y roll]s at ! o!r end ( ! ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa ,s(t5+ ma*9e )\t bat*+ app>atus ,ma*9e bat*+ is pref]r$ by _m firms because ! application ( oil & wat]1 & ! proportion ( ea*1 are mu* m uni=m ?an !y are by ! above m5tion$ process ( h& bat*+4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !re is no "t = condition+ ! fibre because ! lubrication & ! s(t5+ are proce$+ simultane\sly1 al?\gh condition+ may proce$ :ile ! fibre rema9s 9 ! c>t aft] x has left ! s(t5]4 ,! me*anical app>atus z made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee1 = deposit+ ! oil & wat] on ! pieces or /ricks ( jute is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ab4 ,! actual lubricat+ equipm5t is situat$ on ! top ( ! rectangul> frame 9 ! c5tre ( ! illu/ration4 ,?is frame is bolt$ to ! side frames ( ! s(t5+ ma*9e prop]1 say t %[n 9 ,fig4 #aa4 ,its exact position1 ) respect to its di/ance f ! fe$1 is a matt] ( *oice1 b ! liquid is (t5 arrang$ to fall on to ! mat]ial at any po9t betwe5 ! second & twelf? roll]s4 ,9 ,fig4 #ab ! ends ( #ac roll]s ( ! upp] set are se5 cle>ly1 & ^! upp] roll]s are kept h>d 9 contact ) ! /ricks or pieces ( jute by means ( ! p[]ful spr+s %[n imm$iately above ! roll] be>+s & p>tially enclos$ 9 bell-j>s4 ,outside ! rectangul> frame 9 ,fig4 #ab are two rods1 "o v]tical & ! o!r incl9$4 ,! /raight or v]tical rod is atta*$ by suitable lev]s & rods to ! set-on h&les at ea* end ( ! ma*9e & to ! valve ( ! wat] pipe ne> ! top ( ! frame1 :ile ! upp] end ( ! incl9$ or oblique rod is fulcrum$ on a rod project+ f ! frame4 ,! l[] or curv$ end ( ! oblique rod re/s aga9/ ! boss ( "o ( ! upp] roll]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab ,! wat] valve is op5$ & clos$ ) ! />t+ & /opp+ ( ! ma*9e1 b ! oblique rod is mov$ only :5 irregul> fe$+ takes place4 ,?us1 ! upp] roll]s rise slightly aga9/ ! pressure ( ! spr+s :5 ?ick /ricks appe>2 h5ce1 :5 a ?ick place passes "u ! roll] :i* is 9 contact ) ! curv$ end ( ! oblique rod1 ! end moves slightly clockwise1 & ?us rotates ! fulcrum rod2 ?is results 9 an increas$ quantity ( oil be+ lib]at$ f ! s\rce ( supply1 & ! me*anism is s arrang$ t ! oil rea*es ! ?ick "p ( ! /rick4 ,:5 ! above-m5tion$ upp] roll] desc5ds1 due to a decrease 9 ! ?ickness ( ! /rick1 ! oblique rod & its fulcrum is mov$ slightly c\nt]-clockwise1 & less oil is lib]at$ = ! ?9 "p ( ! /rick4 ,x w be und]/ood t all mak]s ( s(t5+ ma*9es supply ! automatic lubricat+ or bat*+ app>atus :5 desir$4 ,a view ( a s(t5] at "w appe>s 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,! bevel :eels at ! end ( ! roll]s are naturally cov]$ z a protection aga9/ accid5ts4 ,9 _m ma*9es safety appliances are fitt$ at ! fe$ end s t ! ma*9e may be automatically /opp$ if ! op]ative is 9 dang]4 ,! bat*+ app>atus = ?is ma*9e is ( a diff]5t k9d f t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ab2 moreov]1 x is plac$ ne>] ! fe$ roll]s ?an ! twelf? pair4 ,! fe$ pipes = ! oil & ! wat] are %[n com+ f a high plane1 & ! supply is "u ! influ5ce ( *a9 ge>+ z %[n on ! "r ne> ! l>ge driv+ belt f ! drum on ! %aft+4 ,! fe$ roll] 9 ?is ma*9e is a spirally flut$ "o1 & ! nature ( ! flutes is cle>ly emphasiz$ 9 ! view4 ,! b>r[ ( jute at ! f> end ( ! ma*9e is built up f /ricks :i* h pass$ ?r\gh ! ma*9e1 & ^! /ricks are n[ ready = condition+1 & w be /or$ 9 a conv5i5t position = future treatm5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac ,s(t5+ ma*9e ) bat*+ app>atus ,:ile ! jute z assort$ & bal$ = export f ,india is grad$ 9 su* a way t x may be us$ = c]ta9 classes ( y>n )\t any fur!r selection or treatm5t1 x may be possible to utilize ! mat]ial to bett] advantage by a judici\s selection & treatm5t aft] x has und]gone ! op]ation ( bat*+4 ,:at are kn[n z cutt+s are (t5 treat$ by a special ma*9e kn[n z a root-op5]4 ,! jute cutt+s are f$ into ! ma*9es & ! fibre rubb$ betwe5 fix$ & rotat+ p9s 9 ord] to loos5 ! matt$ ends ( /ricks4 ,=eign matt] drops ?r\gh ! op5+s ( a grid to ! floor1 & ! fibre is deliv]$ on to a table1 or1 if desir$1 on to ! fe$ %eet ( ! s(t5]4 ,! root ends ( /ricks are sometimes treat$ by a special ma*9e t]m$ a root-comb] ) ! object ( loos5+ ! comp>atively h>d end ( ! /rick4 ,a snipp+ ma*9e or a teaz] may also be us$ = some:at simil> purposes1 & = op5+ out ropes & simil> close textures4 ,! cutt+s may be p>tially loos5$ by means ( bl[s f a heavy iron b>2 boil+ wat] is !n p\r$ on ! fibre1 & !n ! mat]ial is built up ) room left = expansion1 & all[$ to rema9 9 ?is condition = a few days4 ,a c]ta9 quantity ( ?is mat]ial may !n be us$ along ) o!r m>ks ( jute to =m a bat* suitable = ! int5d$ y>n4 ,a v common practice is to cut ! h>d root ends (f by means ( a l>ge /ation>y knife4 ,at o!r times1 ! ?9 ends ( ! /ricks are also cut (f by ! same in/rum5t4 ,^! two p>ts are sev]$ :5 x is desir$ to utilize only ! be/ "p ( ! /rick4 ,! root ends are usually d>k] 9 col\r ?an ! rema9d]1 & h5ce ! above process is "o ( selection ) ! object ( secur+ a y>n :i* w be uni=m 9 col\r & 9 /r5g?4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,c>d+ ,break] & ,f9i%] ,c>ds4 ,aft] ! fibre f ! s(t5+ ma*9e has be5 condition$ = ! desir$ "t1 x is ready = "o ( ! mo/ important processes 9 ! cycle ( jute manufacture2 ?is process is t]m$ c>d+1 & is conduct$ 9 two di/9ct types ( ma*9es-- #a4 ,! break] c>d4 #b4 ,! f9i%] c>d4 ,! functions ( ! two ma*9es are almo/ id5tical2 inde$1 "o might say t ! "w ( c>d+ %\ld be look$ ^u z "o cont9u\s op]ation4 ,! ma9 diff]5ce betwe5 ! two types ( ma*9es is 9 ! me?od ( fe$+1 & ! degree ( f95ess or sett+ ( ! small tools or p9s :i* p]=m ! "w4 ,9 bo? cases ! action on ! /ricks ( jute is equival5t to a comb9$ comb+ & splitt+ movem5t1 & ! p9s 9 ! v>i\s roll]s move relatively to ea* o!r s t :ile ! p9s ( a sl[ly-mov+ roll] all[ ! /rick or /ricks 7because !re are sev]al side by side7 to pass sl[ly & gradually f end to end1 ! p9s ( ano!r b quickly-mov+ roll] p]=m ! splitt+ & ! comb+ ( ! fibre4 ,! p9s ( ! sl[ly-mov+ roll] hold1 s to speak1 ! /rick1 :ile ! p9s ( ! quickly-mov+ roll] comb out ! fibres & split adh]+ p>ts asund] s z to make a comp>atively f9e division4 ,! condition$ /ricks f ! s(t5+ ma*9e are fir/ arrang$ 9 "s suitable receptacle & )9 easy rea* ( ! op]ative at ! back or fe$ side ( ! break] c>d4 ,a receptacle1 v simil> to t us$ at ! break] c>d1 appe>s ne> ! f> end ( ! s(t5+ ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,a mod]n break] c>d is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,! fe$ or back ( ! c>d is on ! extreme "r1 ! deliv]y or front ( ! c>d on ! extreme left1 :ile ! ge> side ( ! c>d is fac+ ! obs]v]4 ,! protect+ cages 7 remov$ s t ! :eels w\ld be se5 z cle>ly z possible4 ,"s ( ! /ricks ( fibre are se5 di/9ctly on ! fe$ side ( ! figure2 !y are accommodat$1 z m5tion$1 9 a *annel-%ap$ /& on ! f> side ( ! incl9$ fe$ %eet1 or fe$ clo?1 :i* leads up to & conveys ! /ricks into ! grip ( ! fe$+ app>atus4 ,?is p>ticul> type is t]m$ a %ell fe$ because ! upp] cont\r ( ! guid+ fe$ bracket is %ap$ some:at l a %ell4 ,!re is a gradually decreas+ & suitably-siz$ gap betwe5 ! upp] "p ( ! %ell & ! p9s ( ! fe$ roll]4 ,! root ends ( ! p9s 9 ?is roll] lead1 & ! /ricks ( fibre are gripp$ betwe5 ! p9s & ! %ell1 & simultane\sly c>ri$ into ! ma*9e :]e !y come into contact ) ! po9ts ( ! p9s 9 ! rapidly-revolv+ l>ge roll]1 t]m$ a cyl9d]4 ,! above-m5tion$ comb+ & splitt+ action takes place at ?is po9t z well z = a di/ance (1 say1 #bd in*es to #cj in*es bel[4 ,! fibres :i* are sep>at$ at ?is /age are c>ri$ a little fur!r r\nd until !y come into contact ) ! po9ts ( ! p9s 9 ! above-m5tion$ sl[ly-mov+ roll]1 t]m$ a work]1 & :ile ! fibres are mov+ sl[ly =w>d "u ! re/ra9+ influ5ce ( ! work]1 !y are fur!r comb$ & split4 ,a portion ( ! fibres is c>ri$ r\nd by ! p9s ( ! work] f :i* su* fibres are remov$ by ! quick] mov+ p9s ( ! second roll] ( ! pair1 t]m$ a /ripp]1 & 9 turn ^! fibres are remov$ f ! p9s ( ! /ripp] by ! mu* quick] mov+ p9s ( ! cyl9d]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad ,,mod]n ,,break] ,,c>d ,! above op]ations conduct$ by ! fir/ pair ( roll]s 7work] & /ripp]7 9 conjunction ) ! cyl9d]1 are repeat$ by a second & simil> pair ( roll]s 7work] & /ripp]71 & ultimately ! ?9 %eet ( comb$ & split fibres comes into contact ) ! p9s ( ! d(f] f :i* x is remov$ by ! draw+ & press+ roll]s4 ,! %eet ( fibres f9ally em]ges f ^! roll]s into ! broad & upp] "p ( ! conductor4 ,?is conductor1 made mo/ly ( t9 & ,v-%ap$1 is %[n cle>ly on ! left ( ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,imm$iately ! ?9 film or %eet ( fibres ent]s ! conductor1 x is caus$ z a body gradually to contract 9 wid? &1 ( c\rse1 to increase 9 ?ickness1 & is simultane\sly guid$ & deliv]$ to ! deliv]y roll]s1 & f ^! to ! sliv] c1 di/9ctly se5 imm$iately bel[ ! deliv]y roll]s4 ,! sliv] is se5 em]g+ f ! above roll]s & ent]+ ! sliv] c4 ,! fibres 9 ?is ma*9e are ?us comb$1 split & drawn =w>d relatively to ea* o!r1 9 addition to be+ arrang$ m or less p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,! te*nical t]m draft is us$ to indicate ! op]ation ( caus+ ! fibres to slip on ea* o!r1 & 9 future we %all speak ab\t ?is att5uation or draw+ out ( ! fibres by ?is special t]m draft4 ,x w be evid5t t1 s9ce ! sliv] is deliv]$ into ! c at ! rate ( ab\t #ej y>ds p] m9ute1 ?is con/ant fl[ w soon provide a suffici5t l5g? ( sliv] to fill a sliv] c1 al?\gh ! latt] may hold approximately #bj lbs4 ,! ma*9e mu/1 ( c\rse1 deliv] its quota to enable succe$+ ma*9es to be kept 9 practically con/ant "w4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! ma*9es are arrang$ 9 :at are t]m$ sy/ems1 s t ?is desirable condition ( a con/ant & suffici5t fe$ to all may be satisfactorily fulfill$4 ,! driv+ or pulley side ( ! break] c>d is v simil> to t %[n 9 ,fig4 #ae :i*1 h[ev]1 actually repres5ts ! pulley side ( "o type ( f9i%] c>d z made by ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,arbroa?4 ,all f9i%] c>ds are f$ by sliv]s :i* h be5 made z expla9$ 9 connection ) ! break] c>d1 b !re are two di/9ct me?ods ( fe$+ ! sliv]s1 or r ( arrang+ ! sliv]s at ! fe$ side4 ,9 bo? cases1 h[ev]1 ! full wid? ( ! c>d is f$ by sliv]s laid side by side1 )1 h[ev]1 a ?9 guide plate betwe5 ea* pair1 & "o at ea* extreme end4 ,"o v common me?od ( fe$+ is to place #aj or #ab full sliv] cans--:i* h be5 prep>$ at ! break] c>d--on ! floor & to ! "r ( ! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ae4 ,! sliv] f ea* c is !n plac$ into ! correspond+ sliv] guide1 & ?us ! full wid? ( ! ma*9e is occupi$4 ,! sliv]s are guid$ by ! sliv] guides on to an endless clo? or fe$ %eet :i*1 9 turn1 conveys !m cont9u\sly betwe5 ! fe$ roll]s4 ,! fe$ app>atus 9 su* ma*9es is inv>iably ( ! roll] type1 & sometimes x involves :at is kn[n z a porcup9e roll]4 ,x w be und]/ood t ! fe$+ ( level sliv]s is a diff]5t problem f t :i* necessitates ! fe$+ ( comp>atively unev5 /ricks4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #ae ,,f9i%] ,,c>d ,,) ,,draw+-,,head ,! sliv]s travel horizontally ) ! fe$-%eet & ent] ! ma*9e at a height ( ab\t #d feet f ! floor4 ,!y ?us =m1 z x 71 a %eet ( fibr\s mat]ial at ! entrance1 & ?is %eet ( fibres comes 9 contact ) ! p9s ( ! v>i\s pairs ( roll]s1 ! cyl9d]1 & ! d(f]1 9 mu* ! same way z already describ$ 9 connection ) ! break] c>d4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 m pairs ( roll]s 9 ! f9i%] c>d ?an !re are 9 ! break] c>d1 = :ile ! latt] is provid$ ) two pairs ( roll]s1 ! =m] may be arrang$ ) #c1 #d1 #e or ev5 #f pairs ( roll]s 7#f work]s & #f /ripp]s74 ,! numb] ( pairs ( roll]s dep5ds ^u ! degree ( "w requir$1 & ^u ! op9ions ( ! v>i\s manag]s4 ,!re are two di/9ct types ( f9i%] c>ds1 viz-- #a4 ,half-circul> f9i%] c>ds4 #b4 ,full-circul> f9i%] c>ds4 ,! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ae is ( ! latt] type1 & su* ma*9es are s-call$ because ! v>i\s pairs ( roll]s are s dispos$ ar\nd ! cyl9d] t !y occupy almo/ a complete circle1 & ! fibre "u treatm5t mu/ move f pair to pair to und]go ! comb+ & splitt+ action be=e com+ into contact ) ! d(f]4 ,!re are five pairs ( roll]s 9 ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ae1 & all ! roll]s are securely box$ 91 & ! :eels f5c$4 ,! arrangem5t ( ! :eels on ! ge> side is v simil> to t %[n 9 connection ) ! break] c>d 9 ,fig4 #ad1 & !re=e requires no fur!r m5tion4 ,outside ! box+ comes ! cov]s1 %[n cle>ly at ! back ( ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ae1 & adapt$ to be easily & quickly op5$ :5 x is desir$ to exam9e ! roll]s & o!r p>ts4 ,! sliv]s1 aft] hav+ pass$ among/ ! p9s ( ! v>i\s roll]s1 & be5 subject$ to ! requir$ degree ( draft1 are ultimately d(f$ z a ?9 film ( fibres f ! p9s ( ! cyl9d] & pass betwe5 ! draw+ roll]s to ! conductor4 ,! conductor ( a f9i%] c>d is made 9 two wid?s1 s t half ! wid? ( ! film ent]s "o section & ! o!r half ent]s ! o!r section4 ,^! two p>allel %eets1 split f "o common %eet1 trav]se ! two conductors & are ultimately deliv]$ z two sliv]s ab\t #f in*es above ! po9t or plane 9 :i* ! #aj or #ab sliv]s ent]$1 & on to :at is t]m$ a sliv] plate4 ,! two sliv]s are !n guid$ by horns project+ f ! upp] surface ( ! sliv] plate1 made to travel at "r angles to ! direction ( deliv]y f ! m\?s ( ! conductors1 & !n unit$ to pass z a s+le sliv] betwe5 a pair ( deliv]y roll]s on ! left ( ! fe$ & deliv]y side & f9ally into a sliv] c4 ,9 special types ( f9i%+ c>ds1 an extra piece ( me*anism--t]m$ a draw-head--is employ$4 ,! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ae is provid$ ) ?is extra me*anism :i* is support$ by ! small supplem5t>y frame on ! extreme "r4 ,?is special me*anism is t]m$ a ,pat5t ,pu% ,b> ,draw+ ,head1 & ! function :i* x p]=ms w be describ$ %ortly2 9 ! meantime x is suffici5t to say t x is us$ only :5 ! sliv]s f ! f9i%] c>d require extra or special treatm5t4 ,a v desirable condition 9 connection ) ! comb9ation ( a f9i%] c>d & a draw-head is t ! two di/9ct p>ts %\ld "w 9 unison4 ,9 ! ma*9e "u consid]ation1 ! fe$ & deliv]y roll]s ( ! c>d /op simultane\sly ) ! /oppage ( ! draw-head me*anism4 ,"o ( ! *ief aims 9 sp9n+ is t ( produc+ a uni=m ?read2 uni=m n only 9 section1 b 9 all o!r respects4 ,a s-call$ level ?read ref]s1 9 g5]al1 to a uni=m diamet]1 b !re are o!r equally1 if n m1 important phases connect$ ) ! full s5se ( ! ^w uni=m4 ,x has already be5 /at$ t 9 ! bat*+ dep>tm5t v>i\s qualities ( jute are mix$ z judici\sly z possible 9 ord] to obta9 a satisfactory mixture4 ,fibres ( diff]5t grades & m>ks v>y 9 /r5g?1 col\r1 cleanness1 diamet]1 l5g? & suppl5ess2 x is ( ! utmo/ importance t ^! fibres ( div]se qualities %\ld be di/ribut$ z e>ly z possible 9 ! process s z to facilitate ! subsequ5t op]ations4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,james ,f4 ,l[ ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #af ,,wa/e ,,teaz] ,h[ev] skilfully ! "w ( mix+ ! /ricks is p]=m$ 9 ! bat*+ dep>tm5t1 ! degree ( uni=mity leaves some?+ to be desir$2 fur!r improvem5t is /ill desirable & inde$ necess>y4 ,x ne$ h>dly be said1 h[ev]1 t ! ext5t ( ! improvem5t1 & ! g5]al f9al result1 are influ5c$ greatly by ! c>e :i* is ex]cis$ 9 ! prelim9>y processes4 ,! v fact ( unit+ #aj or #ab sliv]s at ! fe$ ( ! f9i%] c>d mixes #aj or #ab di/9ct l5g?s into ano!r new l5g?1 &1 9 addition1 sep>ates 9 "s measure ! fibres ( ea* individual sliv]4 ,x mu/ n be tak5 = grant$ t ! new l5g? ( sliv] is id5tical ) ea* ( ! individual l5g?s & t5 or twelve times z bulky4 ,a process ( draft+ takes place 9 ! f9i%] c>d1 s t ! fibres :i* compose ! comb9$ #aj or #ab sliv]s %all be drawn out to a draft ( #h to #af or ev5 m2 ?is means t = e y>d ( ! gr\p ( sliv]s :i* passes into ! ma*9e !re is drawn out a l5g? ( #h to #af y>ds or :atev] ! draft happ5s to be4 ,! result+ sliv] w !re=e be approximately two-?irds ! bulk ( ea* ( ! orig9al individual sliv]s4 ,! actual ratio betwe5 !m w obvi\sly dep5d ^u ! actual draft :i* is imp>t$ to ! mat]ial by ! relative velocities ( ! fe$ & deliv]y roll]s4 ,x is only natural to expect t a c]ta9 am\nt ( ! fibr\s mat]ial w escape f ! roll]s2 ?is =ms :at is kn[n z c>d wa/e4 ,& 9 all subsequ5t ma*9es !re is produc$1 9 spite ( all c>e1 a p]c5tage ( ! am\nt f$ into ! ma*9e :i* is n deliv]$ z p]fect mat]ial4 ,all ?is wa/e f v>i\s s\rces1 e4g4 ?read wa/e1 rove wa/e1 c>d wa/e1 ropes1 du/-%ak] wa/e1 etc41 is ultimately utiliz$ to produce sliv] = heavy sack+ weft4 ,! du/-%ak]1 z its "n implies1 sep>ates ! du/ f ! valuable fibr\s mat]ial1 & f9ally all ! wa/e products are pass$ ?r\gh a wa/e teaz] su* z t made by ,messrs4 ,j4 ,f4 ,l[ ,co41 ,ltd41 ,monifie?1 & illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #af4 ,! result+ mass is !n re-c>d$1 p]haps along ) o!r m valuable mat]ial1 & made into a sliv] :i* is us$1 z /at$ above1 9 ! production ( a *eap & comp>atively ?ick weft su* z t us$ = sack+4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,draw+ ,,& ,,draw+ ,,frames ,! op]ations ( comb+ & splitt+ z p]=m$ 9 bo? ! break] & f9i%] c>d are obvi\sly due to ! circul> movem5t ( ! p9s s9ce all ^! 7) ! s+le exception ( ^? 9 ! draw-head me*anism ( c]ta9 f9i%] c>ds7 are c>ri$ on ! p]iph]ies ( rotat+ roll]s4 ,9 ! draw-head me*anism1 ! p9s move1 :ile 9 contact ) ! fibres1 9 a rectil9e> or /raight pa?4 ,9 ! ma*9es :i* fall to be discuss$ 9 ?is *apt]1 viz41 ! draw+ frames1 ! action ( ! p9s on ! sliv]s f ! f9i%] c>d is also 9 a /raight pa?2 z a matt] ( fact1 ! draw-head ( a f9i%] c>d is really a small draw+ frame1 z its "n implies4 ,moreov]1 ea* r[ or r d\ble r[1 ( p9s is c>ri$ sep>ately by :at is t]m$ a fall]4 ,! fall] z a :ole consi/s ( ?ree p>ts3 #a4 ,a long iron or /eel rod ) provision = be+ mov$ 9 a clos$ circuit4 #b4 ,p\r or six brass plates1 t]m$ gills or /ocks1 fix$ to ! rod4 #c4 ,a s]ies ( %ort p9s 7"o r[ sometimes ab\t #a_/h 94 %ort] ?an ! second r[71 t]m$ gill or hackle p9s1 & set p]p5dicul>ly 9 ! above gills4 ,! numb]s ( fall]s us$ is det]m9$ p>tly by ! p>ticul> me?od ( op]at+ ! fall]s1 b mo/ly by ! l5g? ( ! fibre4 ,! gill p9s 9 ! fall]s are us$ to re/ra9 ! movem5ts ( ! fibres betwe5 two important pairs ( roll]s4 ,!re are actually ab\t f\r sets ( roll]s f front to back ( a draw+ frame2 "o set ( ?ree roll]s con/itute ! reta9+ roll]s2 !n comes ! draw+ roll] & its l>ge press+ roll]2 imm$iately aft] ?is pair is ! slick+ roll]s1 & ! la/ pair is ! deliv]y roll]s4 ,! deliv]y roll]s ( "o type ( draw+ frame1 call$ ! pu%-b> draw+ frame1 & made by ,messsrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,arbroa?1 are se5 di/9ctly 9 ,fig4 #ag1 & ! c or cans into :i* ! sliv]s are ultimately deliv]$ are plac$ imm$iately bel[ "o or m sections ( ^! roll]s & 9 ! =egr\nd ( ! illu/ration4 ,! l>ge press+ roll]s1 :i* are 9 contact ) ! draw+ roll]1 occupy ! highe/ position 9 ! ma*9e & ne> ! c5tre ( same4 ,betwe5 ^! roll]s & ! reta9+ roll]s are situat$ ! above-m5tion$ fall]s ) _! complem5ts ( gill p9s1 =m+1 s to speak1 a field ( p9s4 ,ea* sliv]1 & !re maybe f f\r to eight or m 9 a set1 is l$ f its sliv] c at ! f> side ( ! ma*9e to ! sliv] guide & betwe5 ! reta9+ roll]s4 ,imm$iately ! sliv]s leave ! reta9+ roll]s !y are p5etrat$ by ! gill p9s ( a fall] :i* is ris+ f ! l[] "p ( its circuit to ! upp] & active position4 ,ea* %ort l5g? ( sliv]s is p5etrat$ by ! p9s ( a ris+ fall]1 ^! com+ up successively z ! prec$+ "o moves along at approximately ! same surface spe$ z t ( ! reta9+ roll]s4 ,! %eet ( p9s & _! fall]s are ?us cont9u\sly mov+ t[>ds ! draw+ roll]s & support+ ! sliv]s at ! same "t4 ,z ea* fall] 9 succession approa*es close to ! draw+ roll]s1 x is made to desc5d s t ! p9s may leave ! fibres1 & f ?is po9t ! fall] moves backw>ds t[>ds ! reta9+ roll] until x rea*es ! o!r end ready to rise aga9 9 contact ) ! fibres & to repeat ! cycle z j describ$4 ,x w ?us be se5 t ! upp] set ( fall]s occupy ! full /ret* betwe5 ! reta9+ roll]s & ! draw+ roll]s1 b !re is always "o fall] leav+ ! upp] set at ! front & ano!r jo9+ ! set at ! back4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag ,pu%-b> draw+ frame ,! actual di/ance betwe5 ! reta9+ roll]s & ! draw+ roll]s is det]m9$ by ! l5g? ( ! fibre1 & mu/ 9 all cases be a little great] ?an ! longe/ fibre4 ,?is condition is necess>y because ! surface spe$ ( ! draw+ roll] is mu* great] ?an t ( ! reta9+ roll]s2 inde$1 ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! surface spe$s ( ! two pairs ( roll]s is ! actual draft4 ,betwe5 ! reta9+ & draw+ roll]s ! sliv]s are emb$d$ 9 ! gill p9s ( ! fall]s1 & ^! move =w>d1 z m5tion$1 to support ! /ret* ( sliv]s & to c>ry ! latt] to ! nip ( ! draw+ roll]s4 ,imm$iately ! =w>d ends ( ! fibres are nipp$ betwe5 ! quickly-mov+ draw+ roll]s1 ! fibres affect$ slide on ^? :i* h n yet rea*$ ! draw+ roll]s1 &1 incid5tally1 help to p>allelize ! fibres4 ,x w be cle> t if any fibre happ5$ to be 9 ! grip ( ! two pairs ( roll]s hav+ diff]5t surface spe$s1 su* fibre w\ld be snapp$4 ,x is to avoid ?is rupture ( fibres t ! di/ance betwe5 ! two sets ( roll]s is great] ?an ! longe/ fibres "u treatm5t4 ,! te*nical ^w = ?is di/ance is rea*4 ,on em]g+ f ! draw+ roll]s1 ! comb$ sliv]s pass betwe5 slick+ roll]s1 & !n approa* ! sliv] plate :i* bridges ! gap betwe5 ! slick+ roll]s & ! deliv]y roll]s1 & by means ( :i* plate two or m individual sliv]s are div]t$ at "r angles1 fir/ to jo9 ea* o!r1 & !n aga9 div]t$ at "r angles to jo9 ano!r sliv] :i* passes /raight f ! draw+ roll]s & ov] ! sliv] plate to ! guide ( ! deliv]y roll]s4 ,x w ?us be se5 t a numb] ( sliv]s1 ea* hav+ be5 drawn out accord+ to ! degree ( draft1 are ultimately jo9$ to pass ?r\gh a common sliv] guide or conductor to ! nip ( ! deliv]y roll]s1 & !nce into a sliv] c4 ,! pu%-b> draw+ illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ag1 or "s o!r ( ! same type1 is (t5 us$ z ! fir/ draw+ frame 9 a set4 ,) ! exception ( ! driv+ pulleys1 all ! ge> :eels are at ! f> end ( ! frame1 & totally enclos$ 9 du/-pro( cas+4 ,! set-on h&les1 = mov+ ! belt f ! loose pulley to ! fa/ pulley1 or vice v]sa1 are conv5i5tly situat$1 z %[n1 & 9 a place :i* is calculat$ to (f] ! lea/ ob/ruction to ! op]ative4 ,! ma*9es are made ) :at are kn[n z two heads or ?ree heads4 ,x w be se5 f ! l>ge press+ roll]s t !re are two pairs2 h5ce ! ma*9e is a two-head draw+ frame4 ,! sliv]s f ! fir/ draw+ frame are n[ subject$ to a fur!r process ( d\bl+ & draft+ 9 a v simil> ma*9e t]m$ ! second draw+ frame4 ,! p9s 9 ! gills = ?is frame are r f9] & m closely set ?an ^? 9 ! fir/ draw+ frame1 b o!rwise ! active p>ts ( ! ma*9es1 & ! op]ations conduct$ !re91 are practically id5tical1 & !re=e ne$ no fur!r description4 ,x %\ld be m5tion$1 h[ev]1 t !re are diff]5t types ( draw+ frames1 & _! designation is inv>iably due to ! p>ticul> mann] 9 :i* ! fall]s are op]at$ :ile trav]s+ ! clos$ circuit4 ,! names ( o!r draw+ frames appe> bel[4 ,spiral or screw gill2 ,op5 l9k *a92 ,rot>y2 ,r+ ,c>ri] ,circul>4 ,= ! prep>ation ( sliv]s = "s classes ( y>n x is consid]$ desirable to ext5d ! draw+ & d\bl+ op]ation 9 a ?ird draw+ frame2 z a rule1 h[ev]1 two frames are consid]$ suffici5t = mo/ classes ( ord9>y y>n4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,,! ,,rov+ ,,frame ,! process ( d\bl+ ends ) ! la/ draw+ frame1 b !re /ill rema9s a process by means ( :i* ! draft+ ( ! sliv]s & ! p>allelization ( ! fibres are cont9u$4 ,&1 9 addition to ^! important functions1 two o!r equally important op]ations are conduct$ simultane\sly1 viz41 t ( imp>t+ to ! drawn out sliv] a slight twi/ to =m :at is kn[n z a rove or rov+1 & t ( w9d+ ! rove on to a l>ge rove bobb9 ready = ! actual sp9n+ frame4 ,! ma*9e 9 :i* ?is multiple process is p]=m$ is t]m$ a rov+ frame4 ,su* ma*9es are made 9 v>i\s sizes1 & ) diff]5t types ( fall] me*anism1 b ea* ma*9e is provid$ = ! manipulation ( two r[s ( bobb9s1 &1 ( c\rse1 ) two r[s ( sp9dles & fly]s4 ,^! two r[s ( sp9dles1 fly]s1 & rove bobb9 supports are %[n cle>ly 9 ,fig4 #ah1 :i* repres5ts a spiral rov+ frame made by ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,arbroa?4 ,ea* circul> bobb9 support is provid$ ) p9s ris+ f ! upp] face ( ! disc1 & ^! p9s s]ve to ent] holes 9 ! flange ( ! bobb9 & ?us to drive ! bobb94 ,! discs or bobb9 supports are situat$ 9 holes 9 ! lift] rail or build] rail or simply ! build]2 ! v]tical sp9dles pass ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! discs1 ea* sp9dle be+ provid$ ) a fly]1 & f9ally a numb] ( plates re/ ^u ! tops ( ! sp9dles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah ,,rov+ ,,frame ,by ,p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,a rov+ ma*9e at "w is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ai1 & x w be se5 t ! twi/$ sliv] or rove on em]g+ f ! draw+ roll]s passes obliquely to ! top ( ! sp9dle1 ?r\gh a guide eye1 !n betwe5 ! *annel-%ap$ b5d at ! upp] "p ( ! fly]1 r\nd ! fly] arm1 ?r\gh an eye at ! extreme end ( ei!r ( ! fly] arms1 & f9ally on to ! bobb94 ,ea* bobb9 has its own sliv] c 7occasionally two71 & ! sliv] passes f ?is c betwe5 ! sides ( ! sliv] guide1 betwe5 ! reta9+ roll]s1 !n among/ ! gill p9s ( ! fall]s & betwe5 ! draw+ 7also ! deliv]y7 roll]s4 ,"h ! sliv] t]m9ates because ! rot>y action ( ! fly] imp>ts a little twi/ & causes ! mat]ial to assume a some:at circul> sectional =m4 ,f ?is po9t1 ! pa? foll[$ to ! bobb9 is t describ$ above4 ,z 9 all ! prec$+ ma*9es1 ! deliv]y spe$ ( ! sliv] is con/ant & is repres5t$ by ! surface spe$ ( ! p]iph]y ( ! deliv]y roll]s1 ?is spe$ approximates to ab\t #bj y>ds p] m9ute4 ,! sp9dles & _! fly]s are also driv5 at a con/ant spe$1 because 9 all cases we h-- sp9dle spe$ deliv]y x twi/4 ,!re is ?us a con/ant l5g? ( y>n to be w\nd on ! rove bobb9 p] m9ute1 & ! spe$ ( ! bobb91 :i* is driv5 indep5d5tly ( ! sp9dle & fly]1 is con/ant = any "o s]ies ( rove coils on ! bobb94 ,! spe$ ( ! bobb9 diff]s1 h[ev]1 = ea* complete lay] ( rove1 simply because ! effective diamet] ( ! mat]ial on ! bobb9 *anges ) ! beg9n+ ( ea* new lay]4 ,! eyes ( ! fly]s always rotate 9 ! same horizontal plane1 & h5ce ! rove always passes to ! bobb9s at ! same height f any fix$ po9t4 ,! bobb9s1 h[ev]1 are rais$ gradually by ! build] dur+ ! =mation ( ea* lay] f ! top ( ! bobb9 to ! bottom1 & l[]$ gradually by ! build] dur+ ! =mation ( ea* lay] f bottom to top4 ,9 o!r words1 ! travel ( ! build] is repres5t$ by ! di/ance betwe5 ! inn] faces ( ! flanges ( ! rove bobb94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai ,,rov+ ,,frame ,,fairbairn',s ,,rov+ ,,frame ,,9 ,,"w ,s9ce e complete lay] ( rove is w\nd on ! bobb9 9 virtue ( ! jo9t action ( ! sp9dle & fly]1 ! rotat+ bobb91 & ! build]1 ea* complete trav]se ( ! latt] increases ! comb9$ diamet] ( ! rove & bobb9 %aft by two diamet]s ( ! rove4 ,x is !re=e necess>y to imp>t an int]mitt5t & v>iable spe$ to ! bobb94 ,! me*anism by means ( :i* ?is desirable & necess>y spe$ is giv5 to ! bobb9 con/itutes "o ( ! mo/ elegant gr\ps ( me*anical p>ts :i* obta9s 9 textile ma*9]y4 ,"s idea ( ! intricacy ( ! me*anism1 z well z its value & importance to ! indu/ry1 may be ga!r$ f ! fact t a consid]able numb] ( textile & me*anical exp]ts /ruggl$ ) ! problem = ye>s2 inde$ #ej ye>s elaps$ be=e an effici5t & suitable gr\p ( me*anical p>ts 0 evolv$ = p]=m+ ! function4 ,! above gr\p ( me*anical p>ts is kn[n z ! diff]5tial motion1 & ! difficulties 9 con/ruct+ its suitable ge>+ arose f ! fact t ! spe$ ( ! rove pass+ on to ! v>i\s diamet]s mu/ be ma9ta9$ ?r\gh\t1 & mu/ co9cide ) ! deliv]y ( y>n f ! roll]s1 s t ! att5uat$ b slightly twi/$ sliv] c be w\nd on to ! bobb9 )\t /ra9 or /ret*4 ,! v>y+ motion is regulat$ & obta9$ by a drive1 ei!r f friction plates or f cones1 & ! :ole ge> is int]e/+1 in/ructive--& sometimes bewild]+--two di/9ct motions1 a con/ant "o & a v>iable "o1 are convey$ to ! bobb9s f ! driv+ %aft ( ! ma*9e4 ,! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ah is ( special design1 & ! :ole tra9 ( ge>1 ) ! exception ( a small tra9 ( :eels to ! reta9+ roll]1 is plac$ at ! pulley end--t ne>e/ ! obs]v]4 ,! ge> :eels are1 z %[n1 effici5tly gu>d$1 & provision is made to />t or /op ! ma*9e f any position on bo? sides4 ,! ma*9e is adapt$ = build+ #aj 94 ,x #e 94 bobb9s1 i4e4 #aj 94 betwe5 ! flanges & #e 94 outside diamet]1 & provid$ ) ei!r #ef or #fd sp9dles1 ! illu/ration %[+ "p ( a ma*9e & approximately #dh sp9dles4 ,! ma*9es = rove 7rov+ frames7 are designat$ by ! size ( ! bobb9 ^u :i* ! rove is w\nd1 e4g4 #aj 94 x #e 94 frame1 & s on2 ?is means t ! flanges ( ! bobb9 are #aj 94 ap>t & #e 94 9 diamet]1 & h5ce ! trav]se ( ! build] w\ld be #aj 94 ,! #aj 94 x #e 94 bobb9 is ! /&>d size = ! ord9>y run ( y>ns1 b #i 94 x #d-a_/b 94 bobb9s are us$ = ! roves f :i* f9] y>ns are spun4 ,:5 ! f9i%$ y>n appe>s 9 ! =m ( rove 7(t5 t]m$ sp9n+ direct71 z is ! case = heavi] sizes or ?ick y>ns1 #h 94 x #d 94 bobb9s are l>gely us$4 ,provision is made on ea* rov+ frame = *ang+ ! size ( rove s z to accommodate x = ! subsequ5t process ( sp9n+ & accord+ to ! c\nt ( ! requir$ y>n2 ! p>ts involv$ 9 ^! *anges are ^? :i* affect ! draft ge>+1 ! twi/ ge>+1 & ! build] ge>+ 9 conjunction ) ! automatic index :eel :i* acts on ! :ole ( ! regulat+ motion4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,,sp9n+ ,! f9al ma*9e us$ 9 ! conv]sion ( rove to ! size ( y>n requir$ is t]m$ ! sp9n+ frame4 ,! actual process ( sp9n+ is p]=m$ 9 ?is ma*9e1 &1 al?\gh ! :ole r\t9e ( ! conv]sion ( fibre into y>n (t5 goes "u ! "n ( sp9n+1 x is obvi\s t a consid]able numb] ( processes are involv$1 & an imm5se am\nt ( "w has to be done be=e ! actual process ( sp9n+ is attempt$4 ,! nom5clature is due to cu/om dat+ back to prehi/oric times :5 ! conv]sion ( fibre to y>n 0 conduct$ by mu* simpl] app>atus ?an x is at pres5t2 ! e/abli%$ "n to d5ote ?is conv]sion ( fibre to y>n n[ ref]s only to "o ( a l>ge numb] ( important processes1 ea* "o ( :i* is z important & necess>y z ! actual op]ation ( sp9n+4 ,a photographical reproduction ( a l>ge sp9n+ flat 9 "o ( ! ,indian jute mills appe>s 9 ,fig4 #bj1 %[+ p>ticul>ly ! wide pass betwe5 two long r[s ( sp9n+ frames1 & ! me?od adopt$ ( driv+ all ! frames f a long l9e %aft4 ,sp9n+ frames are usually d\ble-sid$1 & ea* side may conta9 any practicable numb] ( sp9dles2 #fd to #hj sp9dles p] side are common numb]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig #bj4 ,,an ,,indian ,,sp9n+ ,,flat ,! rove bobb9s1 sev]al ( :i* are cle>ly se5 9 ,fig4 #bj1 are br\ght f ! rov+ frame & plac$ on ! iron pegs ( a creel 7(t5 call$ a hake7 ne> ! top ( ! sp9n+ frame-actually above all mov+ p>ts ( ! ma*9e4 ,ea* rove bobb9 is free to rotate on its own peg z ! rove f x is drawn d[nw>ds by ! reta9+ roll]s4 ,! f9al draft+ ( ! mat]ial takes place 9 ?is frame1 & a consid]able am\nt ( twi/ is imp>t$ to ! drawn out mat]ial2 ! latt]1 n[ 9 ! desir$ =m & size ( y>n1 is w\nd simultane\sly on to a suitable size & =m ( sp9n+ bobb94 ,:5 ! rove em]ges f ! reta9+ roll]s x is pass$ ov] a brea/-plate1 & !n is ent]$ into ! wide "p ( ! conductor2 x !n leaves by ! n>r[ "p ( ! conductor by means ( :i* "p ! rove is guid$ to ! nip ( ! draw+ roll]s1 ,! rove is1 ( c\rse1 draft$ or drawn out betwe5 ! reta9+ & draw+ roll]s accord+ to ! draft requir$1 & ! fibr\s mat]ial1 n[ 9 ?read size is plac$ 9 a slot ( ! ?read-plate1 !n r\nd ! top ( ! fly]1 r\nd "o ( ! arms ( ! fly]1 ?r\gh ! eye or palm at ! end ( ! fly] arm & on to ! sp9n+ bobb94 ,! latt] is rais$ & l[]$ z 9 ! rov+ frame by a build] motion1 s t ! y>n may be di/ribut$ ov] ! full range betwe5 ! ends or flanges4 ,ea* sp9dle is driv5 sep>ately by means ( a tape or b& :i* passes p>tially r\nd ! driv+ cyl9d] & ! driv5 :orl ( ! sp9dle1 & a con/ant relation obta9s betwe5 ! deliv]y ( ! y>n & ! spe$ ( ! sp9dle dur+ ! op]ation ( sp9n+ any fix$ c\nt or type ( y>n4 ,9 ?is connection1 ! p>ts resemble ^? 9 ! rov+ frame1 b f ?is po9t ! functions ( ! two frames diff]4 ,! y>n has c]ta9ly to be w\nd ^u ! bobb9 & at ! same rate z x is deliv]$ f ! draw+ or deliv]y roll]s1 b 9 ! sp9n+ frame ! bobb91 :i* rotates on ! sp9dle1 is n driv5 positively1 z 9 ! rov+ frame1 by :eel ge>+2 ea* sp9n+ bobb9 is actually driv5 by ! y>n be+ pull$ r\nd by ! arm ( ! fly] & j suffici5t resi/ance is (f]$ by ! pressure or t5sion ( ! temp] b& & weight4 ,! temp] b& is simply a piece ( lea!r or hemp tw9e to :i* is atta*$ a weight1 & ! o!r end ( ! lea!r or tw9e is atta*$ to ! build] rail4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba ,a ,,l9e ,,( ,,sp9n+ ,,frames ,! front "p ( ! build] rail is provid$ ) grooves into "o ( :i* ! temp]-b& is plac$ s t ! b& itself is 9 contact ) a groove ne> ! base ( ! bobb9 flange4 ,a v>y+ am\nt ( resi/ance or t5sion on ! bobb9 is requir$ 9 virtue ( ! v>y+ size ( ! p>tially-fill$ bobb91 & ?is is obta9$ by plac+ ! temp]-b& successively 9 diff]5t groves 9 ! build] s t x w embrace a gradually increas+ arc ( ! sp9n+ bobb91 & ?us imp>t a heavi] drag or t5sion4 ,! sp9n+ frames 9 ,fig4 #bj are arrang$ ) ! ends ( ! frame p>allel to ! pass1 :]eas ! end frames 9 ,fig4 #ba are at "r angles to ! pass1 & h5ce an excell5t view ( ! *ief p>ts is pres5t$4 ,! full rove bobb9s are se5 di/9ctly on ! pegs ( ! creel 9 ! upp] "p ( ! figure1 & ! rove y>ns f ^! bobb9s pass d[nw>ds1 z already describ$1 until !y ultimately ent] ! eyes ( ! fly] arms to be direct$ to & w\nd ^u ! sp9n+ bobb9s4 ,! fly]s--at "o "t t]m$ ?ro/les--are cle>ly visible a little above ! r[ ( temp] weights4 ,! *ief p>ts = rais+ ! build]--cam lev]1 adju/able rod1 *a9 & :eel--are illu/rat$ at ! end ( ! frame ne>e/ ! obs]v]4 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,twi/+ ,,& ,,reel+ ,9 reg>d to clo? manufacture1 mo/ y>ns are utiliz$ 9 ! =m !y leave ! sp9n+ frame1 t is1 z s+le y>ns4 ,on ! o!r h&1 = c]ta9 bran*es ( ! trade1 weav+ includ$1 x is necess>y to take two1 ?ree1 or m ( ^! s+le y>ns & to comb9e !m by a process te*nically t]m$ twi/+1 & sometimes d\bl+ :5 two s+le y>ns only are comb9$4 ,al?\gh ! commone/ me?od1 s f> z weav+ requirem5ts g1 is to twi/ two s+le y>ns toge!r to make a comp\nd y>n1 x is n uncommon to comb9e a mu* high] numb]1 inde$1 sixte5 or m s+le y>ns are (t5 unit$ = special purposes1 b1 :5 ?is numb] is exce$$1 ! op]ation comes "u ! head+ ( tw9es1 ropes & ! l4 ,! twi/ or tw9e ?us =m$ w h ! numb] ( y>ns regulat$ by ! levelness & /r5g? requir$ = ! f9i%$ product4 ,! same op]ation is conduct$ 9 ! mak+ ( /r&s = cordage1 b :5 a numb] ( ^! tw9es are laid-up or twi/$ toge!r1 ! "n cord or rope is us$ to di/+ui% !m4#a ,footnote #a3 ,see ,cordage & ,cordage ,hemp & ,fibres1 by ,t4 ,woodh\se & ,p4 ,kilg\r4 ,:5 two or ?ree ?reads are unit$ by twi/+1 ! op]ation c be conduct$ 9 a twi/+ frame :i* diff]s little f a ord9>y sp9n+ frame1 & h5ce ne$ n be describ$4 ,!re may be1 h[ev]1 appliances embody+ "s sy/em ( automatic /op motion to br+ ! individual sp9dles to re/ if "o ?read out ( any gr\p :i* are be+ comb9$ happ5s to break4 ,:5 sev]al ?reads h to be twi/$ toge!r1 special types ( twi/+ frames are employ$2 ^! special ma*9es are t]m$ tube twi/]s1 & ! individual ?reads pass ?r\gh holes suitably plac$ 9 a plate or disc be=e !y rea* ! tube4 ,m or less elaborate me?ods ( comb9+ y>ns are occasionally adopt$1 b ! read] is advis$ to consult ! above-m5tion$ "w on ,cordage & simil> lit]ature = detail$ in=mation4 ,:5 ! y>n leaves ! sp9n+ frame1 or ! twi/+ frame1 x is made up accord+ to requirem5ts1 & ! g5]al op]ations :i* foll[ sp9n+ & twi/+ are1--reel+1 cop-w9d+1 roll or spool w9d+1 mill w>p+ or l9k w>p+4 ,! type or class ( y>n1 ! purpose = :i* ! y>n is to be us$1 or ! equipm5t ( ! manufactur]1 det]m9es :i* ( ^! me?ods %\ld be us$ previ\s to despat*+ ! y>n4 ,reel+4 ,reel+ is a comp>atively simple op]ation1 consi/+ solely ( w9d+ ! y>ns f ! sp9n+ or twi/+ bobb9s on to a wide swift or reel ( a suitable wid? & ( a fix$ diamet]1 or r circumf]5ce4 ,inde$1 ! circumf]5ce ( ! reel 0 fix$ by an ,act ( ,conv5tion ( ,e/ates1 dat+ z f> back z #affe & z "u3 ,t no l95 y>n be export$ "u ! pa9 ( confiscation1 half to ! ,k+ & half to ! atta*]4 ,t l95 y>n be sold by weight & t no reel be %ort] ?an t5 qu>t]s4 ,! same size ( reel has be5 adopt$ = all jute y>ns4 ,all su* y>ns :i* are to be dy$1 blea*$1 or o!rwise treat$ mu/ be reel$ 9 ord] t ! liquor may easily p5etrate ! ?reads :i* are obvi\sly 9 a loose /ate4 ,!re are sy/ems ( dye+ & blea*+ y>ns 9 cop1 roll or beam =m1 b ^! are n employ$ mu* 9 ! jute indu/ry4 ,l>ge quantities ( jute y>ns int5d$ = export are reel$1 p>tly because bundles =m suitable bales = transport1 & p>tly because ( ! v>i$ op]ations & sizes ( app>atus :i* obta9 9 =eign c\ntries4 ,,y>n ,,table ,,= ,,jute ,,y>ns #ij in*es1 or #b-a_/b y>ds #a ?read1 or ! circumf]5ce ( ! reel #abj ?reads or #cjj y>ds #a cut 7or lea7 #b cuts or #fjj y>ds #a he] #ab cuts or #c1fjj y>ds #a /&>d hank #dh cuts or #ad1djj y>ds #a spyndle ,s9ce jute y>ns are comp>atively ?ick1 x is only ! v f9e/ y>ns :i* conta9 #ab cuts p] hank4 ,! bulk ( ! y>n is made up into #f-;cut hanks4 ,if ! y>n %\ld be extra ?ick1 ev5 #f cuts are too _m to be comb9$1 & "o f9ds gr\ps ( #d cuts1 #c cuts1 #b cuts1 & ev5 #a cut4 ,a conv5i5t "n = any gr\p less ?an #ab cuts is a mill-hank1 because ! numb] us$ is simply "o ( conv5i5ce to enable ! mill-hank to be satisfactorily plac$ on ! swift 9 ! w9d+ frame4 ,! reel+ op]ation is useful 9 t x enables "o to measure ! l5g? ( ! y>n2 inde$1 ! op]ation ( reel+1 or =m+ ! y>n into cuts & hanks1 has always be5 us$ z ! me?od ( designat+ ! c\nt1 gri/ or numb] ( ! y>n4 ,we h already se5 t ! c\nt ( jute y>n is det]m9$ by ! weight 9 lbs4 ( "o spyndle 7#ad1djj yds474 ,= #h lb4 p] spyndle y>n1 & = o!r y>ns ( ab\t ! same c\nt1 x is usual to h provision = #bd sp9n+ bobb9s on ! reel4 ,z ! reel rotates1 ! y>n f ^! #bd bobb9s is w\nd r\nd1 say1 #f 94 ap>t1 & :5 ! reel has made #abj revolutions1 or #abj ?reads at ea* place f ea* bobb91 !re w be #bd sep>ate cuts ( y>n on ! reel4 ,:5 #abj ?reads h be5 reel$ z m5tion$1 a bell r+s to w>n ! att5dant t ! cuts are complete2 ! reel is !n /opp$1 & a lease-b& is ti$ r\nd ea* gr\p ( #abj ?reads4 ,a guide rod moves ! ?read guide lat]ally & sl[ly z ! reel+ op]ation is proce$+ s t ea* ?read or r\nd may be 9 close proximity to its neighb\r )\t rid+ on x1 & ?is movem5t ( ! ?read ext5ds to approximately #f 941 to accommodate ! #f cuts :i* are to =m ! mill-hank4 ,ea* "t ! reel has made #abj revolutions & ! bell r+s1 ! reel] ties up ! sev]al cuts 9 ! wid?1 s t :5 ! mill-hank is complete1 ea* individual cut w be di/9ct4 ,9 "s case1 ! two ?reads ( ! lease-b& in/ead ( be+ ti$1 are simply cross$ & recross$ at ea* cut1 )\t ( c\rse break+ ! y>n :i* is be+ reel$1 al?\gh effectively sep>at+ ! cuts4 ,at ! end ( ! op]ation 7:5 ! quantity ( cuts = ! mill-hank has be5 reel$7 ! ends ( ! lease-b& are ti$4 ,! object ( ! lease-b& is = facilitat+ ! op]ation ( w9d+1 & = enabl+ ! l5g? to be *eck$ ) approximate correctness4 ,:5 ! reel has be5 fill$ )1 say1 tw5ty-f\r #f-;cut hanks1 !re w evid5tly be #c spyndles ( y>n on ! reel4 ,! #bd mill-hanks are !n slipp$ (f ! end ( ! reel1 & ! hanks tak5 to ! bundl+ /ool or frame4 ,"h !y1 along ) o!rs ( ! same c\nt1 are made up into bundles :i* weigh f #ed lb4 to #fj lb4 accord+ to ! c\nt ( ! y>n4 ,ea* bundle conta9s a numb] ( complete hanks1 & x is unusual to split a hank = ! purpose ( ma9ta9+ an absolutely /&>d weight bundle4 ,inde$1 ! bundles conta9 an ev5 numb] ( hanks1 s t :ile !re w\ld be exactly #ef lb4 p] bundle ( #g lb4 y>n1 or #h lb4 y>n1 !re w\ld be #fj lb 9 a bundle ( #g-a_/b lb4 y>n1 & #ed lb4 9 a bundle ( #i lb4 y>n4 ,! *ief po9t 9 reel+ is to ensure t ! correct numb] ( ?reads is 9 ea* cut1 i4e4 to obta9 a correct tell2 ?is ideal condition may be impracticable 9 actual "w1 b x is wise to approa* x z closely z possible4 ,c>eless work]s all[ ! reel to run on aft] "o or m sp9n+ bobb9s are empty1 & ?is yields :at is kn[n z %ort tell4 ,x is n uncommon to introduce a bell :eel )1 say1 #abc or #abd tee?1 in/ead ( ! nom9al #abj tee?1 to comp5sate = ?is defect 9 reel+4 ,,*apt] ,,xii4 ,,w9d+3 ,,rolls ,,& ,,cops ,! actual sp9n+ & twi/+ op]ations be+ ?us complet$1 ! y>ns are ready to be comb9$ ei!r = m elaborate types ( twi/1 or = ! processes ( clo? manufacture4 ,9 its simple/ def9ition1 a fabric consi/s ( two s]ies ( ?reads int]lac$ 9 su* way z to =m a m or less solid & compact /ructure4 ,! two s]ies ( ?reads :i* are int]lac$ receive ! te*nical t]ms ( w>p & weft--9 poetical language1 w>p & wo(4 ,! ?reads :i* =m ! l5g? ( ! clo? con/itute ! w>p1 :ile ! transv]se ?reads are ! weft4 ,! w>p ?reads h ultimately to be w\nd or beam$ on to a l>ge roll]1 t]m$ a weav]'s beam1 :ile ! weft y>n has to be prep>$ 9 suitable %ape = ! %uttle4 ,^! two di/9ct conditions necessitate two g5]al types ( w9d+3 7a7 ,spool w9d+ or bobb9 w9d+ = ! w>p y>ns4 7b7 ,cop w9d+ or pirn w9d+ = ! weft y>ns4 ,= ! jute trade1 ! bulk ( ! w>p y>n is w\nd f ! sp9n+ bobb9 on to l>ge rolls or spools :i* conta9 f #g to #h lb4 ( y>n2 ! weft is w\nd f ! sp9n+ bobb9 into cops :i* weigh approximately #d to #h ounces4 ,orig9ally all jute y>ns = w>p 7 w\nd on to flang$ bobb9s v simil> to1 b l>g] ?an1 ^? :i* are at pres5t us$ = ! l95 trade4 ,! adv5t ( ! roll-w9d+ ma*9e m>k$ a great advance 9 ! me?od ( w9d+ w>p y>ns z comp>$ ) ! bobb9 w9d+ me?od2 inde$1 9 ! jute trade1 ! latt] are us$ only = w9d+ f hank ^? y>ns :i* h be5 blea*$1 dy$ or simil>ly treat$4 ,fig4 #bb illu/rates "o ( ! mod]n bobb9 w9d+ ma*9es = jute made by ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,dundee4 ,! f9i%$ product is illu/rat$ by two full bobb9s on ! /& & close to a s+le empty bobb94 ,!re are also two full bobb9s 9 ! w9d+ position1 & sev]al hanks ( y>n on ! swifts4 ,ea* bobb9 is driv5 by means ( two discs1 & s9ce ! drive is by surface contact betwe5 ! discs & ! bobb91 an almo/ con/ant spe$ is imp>t$ to ! y>n ?r\gh\t ! process4 ,an automatic /op motion is provid$ = ea* bobb92 ?is app>atus lifts ! bobb9 cle> ( ! discs :5 ! bobb9 is fill$ z exemplifi$ 9 ! illu/ration4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! flanges ( ! bobb9 is1 obvi\sly1 a fix$ "o 9 any "o ma*9e1 & ! diamet] ov] ! y>n is limit$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 rolls may be made ( v>y+ wid?s & any suitable diamet]4 ,& :ile a bobb9 holds ab\t #b lb4 ( y>n1 a common size ( roll weighs1 z already /at$1 f #g to #h lb4 ,su* a roll measures1 ab\t #i 94 long & #h 94 diamet]2 h5ce = #h lb4 y>n1 ! roll capacity is #ad1djj y>ds4 ,rolls v mu* l>g] ?an ! above are made on special ma*9es adopt$ to w9d ab\t six rolls z %[n 9 ,fig4 #bc4 ,x is built specially = w9d+ heavy or ?ick y>ns into rolls ( #ae 94 diamet] & #ad 94 l5g?1 & ?is p>ticul> ma*9e is us$ mo/ly by rope mak]s & c>pet manufactur]s4 ,"o roll only is %[n 9 ! illu/ration1 & x is w9d+ ! mat]ial f a #aj 94 x #e 94 rove bobb94 ,! rove is drawn =w>d by surface or frictional contact betwe5 ! roll itself & a rapidly rotat+ drum4 ,! y>n guide is mov$ rapidly f side to side by means ( ! groov$ cam on ! left1 ! upright lev] fulcrum$ ne> ! floor1 & ! horizontal rod :i* passes 9 front ( ! rolls & ^u :i* are fix$ ! actual y>n guides4 ,?is rapid trav]se1 comb9$ ) ! rotation ( ! rolls1 enables ! y>n to be securely built ^u a pap] or wood5 tube2 no flanges are requir$1 & h5ce ! initial co/ z well z ! upkeep ( ! f\ndations = rolls is mu* bel[ t = bobb9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,,fig4 #bb ,,bobb9 ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e ,,) ,,hanks ,precisely ! same pr9ciples are adopt$ = w9d+ ! ord9>y #i 94 x #h 94 or #h 94 x #g 94 rolls = ! w>p+ & dress+ dep>tm5ts4 ,^! rolls are made direct f ! y>n on sp9n+ bobb9s1 b ! ma*9es are usually d\ble-sid$1 ea* side hav+ two ti]s2 a common numb] ( spools = "o ma*9e is #hj4 ,! d\ble ti] on ea* side is practicable because ( ! small space requir$ = ! sp9n+ bobb9s4 ,:51 h[ev]1 rolls are w\nd f hank1 z is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bd1 & z practis$ 9 sev]al =eign c\ntries ev5 = grey y>n1 "o r[ only at ea* side is possible4 ,bo? types are made by ea* ma*9e mak]1 ! "o illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bd be+ ! product ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,dundee4 ,9 all cases1 ! y>ns are built ^u tubes z m5tion$1 ! wood5 ones weigh+ only a few ounces & be+ practically inde/ructible1 besides be+ v conv5i5t = transit2 inde$ x looks highly probable t ! use ( ^! articles w /ill fur!r r$uce ! am\nt ( y>n export$ 9 bundle =m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc ,,roll ,,w9d] ,,= ,,l>ge ,,rolls ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bd1 z well z ^? by o!r mak]s1 is v compact1 easily adju/able to w9d diff]5t sizes ( rolls1 c be run at a high spe$1 & possesses automatic /op motions1 "o = ea* roll4 ,a full roll & a p>tially-fill$ roll are cle>ly se54 ,a rec5t improvem5t 9 ! %ape ( a new y>n drag device1 & an automatic /op :5 ! y>n breaks or ! y>n on ! bobb9 is exhau/$1 has j be5 introduc$ on to ! ,combe-,b>b\r frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd ,,roll ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e 7,,f ,,hanks7 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,weft ,w9d+4 ,a few firms w9d jute weft y>n f ! sp9n+ bobb9s on to pirns 7wood5 c5tres74 ,! great majority ( manufactur]s1 h[ev]1 use cops = ! loom %uttles4 ,! cops are almo/ inv>iably w\nd direct f ! sp9n+ bobb9s1 ! exception be+ col\r$ y>n :i* is w\nd f hank4 ,!re are diff]5t types ( ma*9es us$ = cop w9d+1 b 9 e case ! y>n is w\nd ^u a b>e sp9dle1 & ! y>n guide has a rapid trav]se 9 ord] to obta9 ! well-kn[n cross-w9d s necess>y = mak+ a /able cop4 ,! disposition ( ! cops 9 ! w9d+ op]ation is v]tical1 b :ile 9 "s ma*9es ! tap]$ nose ( ! cop is 9 ! high position & ! sp9n+ bobb9 f :i* ! y>n is be+ drawn is 9 ! l[ position1 9 o!r ma*9es ^! conditions are opposite4 ,?us1 9 ! cop w9d+ frame made by ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,arbroa?1 & illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #be1 ! sp9n+ bobb9s are bel[ ! cops1 ! tap]$ noses ( ! latt] are upw>ds 9 _! cones or %ap]s1 & ! y>n guides are ne> ! top ( ! ma*9e4 ,?is view %[s ab\t ?ree-f\r?s ( ! full wid? ( a #if-sp9dle ma*9e1 #dh sp9dles on ea* side1 two practically full-l5g? cops & "o p>tially built4 ,! illu/ration 9 ,fig4 #bf is ! above-m5tion$ opposite type1 & ! "o mo/ g5]ally adopt$1 ) ! sp9n+ bobb9s z %[n ne> ! top ( ! frame1 ! y>n guides 9 ! l[ position1 & ! po9t or tap]$ nose ( ! cop po9t+ d[nw>ds4 ,six sp9dles only appe> 9 ?is view1 :i* repres5ts ! ma*9e made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee1 b x w be und]/ood t all ma*9es are made z long z desir$ )9 practicable & economic limits4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,d\glas ,fras] ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #be ,,cop ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e ,! sp9dles ( cop ma*9es are ge> driv5 z %[n cle>ly 9 ,fig4 #bf2 ! l>ge skew bevel :eels are key$ to ! ma9 %aft1 :ile ! small skew bevel :eels are loose on _! respective sp9dles4 ,! upp] face ( ea* small skew bevel :eel =ms "o "p ( a clut*2 ! o!r "p ( ! clut* is slidably m\nt$ on ! sp9dle4 ,:5 ! two p>ts ( ! clut* are sep>at$1 z !y are :5 ! y>n breaks or runs slack1 :5 x is exhau/$1 or :5 ! cop rea*es a pr$et]m9$ l5g?1 ! sp9dle /ops2 b :5 ! two p>ts ( ! clut* are 9 contact1 ! small skew bevel :eel drives ! clut*1 ! latt] rotates ! sp9dle1 & ! sp9dle 9 turn draws =w>d ! y>n f ! bobb91 & 9 conjunction ) ! rapidly mov+ y>n guide & ! inn] surface ( ! cone imp>ts 9 rapid succession new lay]s on ! nose ( ! cop1 & ?us ! =m$ lay]s ( ! latt] increase ! l5g? proportionately to ! am\nt ( y>n drawn on1 & ! p>tially complet$ cop moves sl[ly away f its cup or cone until ! desir$ l5g? is obta9$ :5 ! sp9dle is automatically /opp$ & ! w9d+ = t p>ticul> sp9dle ceases4 ,cops may be made ( any l5g? & any suitable diamet]2 a common size = jute %uttle is #aj 94 long1 & #a-e_/h 94 diamet]1 & ! angle =m$ by ! two sides ( ! cone is approximately #cj degrees4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig #bf ,,cop ,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii4 ,,w>p+1 ,,beam+ ,,& ,,dress+ ,!re are a few di/9ct me?ods ( prep>+ w>p ?reads on ! weav]'s beam4 ,/at$ briefly1 ! *ief me?ods are-- #a4 ,! w>p is made 9 ! =m ( a *a9 on a w>p+ mill1 & :5 ! complet$ *a9 is remov$ f ! mill x is transf]r$ on to ! weav]'s beam4 #b4 ,! w>p is made 9 ! =m ( a *a9 on a l9k+ ma*9e1 & !n beam$ on to a weav]'s beam4 #c4 ,! w>p y>ns are w\nd or beam$ direct f ! l>ge cyl9drical rolls or spools on to a weav]'s beam4 #d4 ,! w>p y>ns are />*$1 dri$ & beam$ simultane\sly on to a weav]'s beam4 ,! la/ me?od is ! mo/ ext5sively adapt$2 b we %all describe ! f\r processes briefly1 & 9 ! ord] m5tion$4 ,= mill w>p+1 z 9 ,no4 #a me?od1 f #ej to #gb full sp9n+ bobb9s are plac$ 9 ! bank or creel z illu/rat$ to ! "r ( ea* l>ge circul> w>p+ mill 9 ,fig4 #bg4 ,! ends ( ! ?reads f ^! bobb9s are drawn ?r\gh ! eyes ( two leaves ( ! heck1 & all ! ends ti$ toge!r4 ,! heck1 or app>atus = =m+ :at is kn[n z ! weav]'s lease1 draw]'s lease1 or ?read-by-?read lease1 is %[n cle>ly betwe5 ! bobb9 bank & ! female w>p] 9 ! =egr\nd ( ! illu/ration4 ,! heck is susp5d$ by means ( cords1 or *a9s1 & s rang$ t :5 ! w>p+ mill is rotat$ 9 "o direction ! heck is l[]$ gradually betwe5 suitable slides1 :ile :5 ! mill is rotat$ 9 ! opposite direction ! heck is rais$ gradually betwe5 ! same slides4 ,^! movem5ts are necess>y 9 ord] t ! ?reads f ! bobb9s may be arrang$ spirally r\nd ! mill & z illu/rat$ cle>ly on all ! mills 9 ! figure4 ,! p>ticul> me?od ( arrang+ ! ropes1 or ! ge>+ if *a9s are us$1 det]m9es ! di/ance betwe5 ea* pair ( spirals2 a common di/ance is ab\t #a-a_/b 94 ,!re are ab\t #db spirals or r\nds on ! ne>e/ mill 9 ,fig4 #bg1 & ?is numb] multipli$ by ! circumf]5ce ( ! mill repres5ts ! l5g? ( ! w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg ,a ,,r[ ,,( ,,mod]n ,,w>p+ ,,mills ,at ! comm5cem5t1 ! heck is at ! top1 & :5 ! weav]'s lease has be5 =m$ on ! ?ree p9s ne> ! top ( ! mill ) ! #ej to #gb ?reads 7(t5 #ef71 ! mill is rotat$ by means ( ! h&le & its connections %[n ne> ! bottom ( ! mill4 ,z ! mill rotates1 ! heck ) ! ?reads desc5ds gradually & ?us ! gr\p ( ?reads is dispos$ spirally on ! v]tical spokes ( ! mill until ! desir$ l5g? ( ! w>p is rea*$4 ,a beam]'s lease or p9 lease is n[ made on ! two l[] pegs2 !re may be two1 ?ree1 f\r or m ?reads 9 ea* gr\p ( ! p9 lease2 a common numb] is #g to #i4 ,:5 ?is p9 lease has be5 =m$1 "o section ( ! w>p has be5 made1 ! proportion f9i%$ be+ 7#ej to #gb7_/x :]e x is ! total numb] ( ?reads requir$ = ! clo?4 ,! same k9d ( lease mu/ aga9 be made on ! same two p9s at ! bottom = ! beg9n+ ( ! next section ( #ej to #gb ?reads1 & ! mill rotat$ 9 ! opposite direction 9 ord] to draw up ! heck1 & to cause ! second gr\p ( #ej to #gb ?reads to be arrang$ spirally & 9 close t\* ) ! ?reads ( ! fir/ gr\p4 ,:5 ! heck rea*es ! top ( ! mill1 ! s+le-?read lease is aga9 made1 all ! ?reads pass$ r\nd ! end p91 & !n all is ready = repeat+ ! same two op]ations until ! requisite numb] ( ?reads has be5 introduc$ on to ! mill4 ,if x is impossible to accommodate all ! ?reads = ! clo? on ! mill1 ! w>p is made 9 two or m p>ts or *a9s4 ,x w be notic$ t ! heck = ! ne>e/ mill is opposite ab\t ! #ab? r\nd ( ?reads f ! bobb91 :]eas ! heck = ! second mill is ab\t ! same di/ance f ! top4 ,a complet$ w>p or *a9 is be+ bundl$ up opposite ! ?ird mill4 ,:5 ! w>p is complet$ x is pull$ (f ! mill & simultane\sly l9k$ into a *a94 ,a v simil> k9d ( w>p c be made m quickly1 & (t5 bett]1 on :at is t]m$ ! l9k+ ma*9e m5tion$ 9 ,no4 #b me?od4 ,su* a ma*9e is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bh1 & ! full equipm5t dem&s ! foll[+ f\r di/9ct k9ds ( app>atus--a bank capable ( hold+ approximately #cjj spools1 a frame = =m+ ! weav]'s lease & ! beam]'s lease1 ma*9e = draw+ ! ?reads f ! spools 9 ! bank & = measur+ ! l5g? & m>k+ ! w>p at pr$et]m9$ int]vals1 & f9ally ! actual ma*9e :i* l9ks ! gr\p ( ?reads 9 ! =m ( a *a94 ,9 ,fig4 #bh "p ( ! l>ge bank1 ) a few r[s ( spools1 is %[n 9 ! extreme backgr\nd4 ,! two sets ( ?reads1 f ! two w+s ( ! bank1 are se5 di/9ctly1 & ! ma*9e or frame imm$iately 9 front ( ! bank is :]e ! two k9ds ( lease are made :5 desir$1 i4e4 at ! beg9n+ & at ! end ( ! w>p4 ,betwe5 ?is leas+ frame & ! l9k+ ma*9e prop]1 %[n 9 ! =egr\nd1 is ! draw+1 measur+ & m>k+ ma*9e4 ,only "p ( ?is ma*9e is se5--! driv+ pulleys & "p ( ! frame adjo9+ !m4 ,all ^! frames & ma*9es are necess>y1 b ! movem5ts embodi$ 9 !m1 or ! functions :i* !y p]=m1 are really subsidi>y to ^? ( ! l9k] %[n 9 ! =egr\nd ( ,fig4 #bh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh ,,p[] ,,*a9 ,,( ,,w>p ,,l9k+ ,,ma*9e ,al?\gh ! l9k+ ma*9e is compos$ ( only a few p>ts1 x is a highly-+5i\s comb9ation ( me*anical p>ts2 ^! p>ts conv]t ! /raight runn+ gr\p ( #cjj ?reads into a l9k$ *a91 & ! latt] is %[n di/9ctly desc5d+ f ! *ute on to ! floor 9 ! figure4 ,precisely ! same k9d ( l9k is made by ! h& wrapp]s :5 ! w>ps indicat$ 9 ,fig4 #bg are be+ )drawn f ! mills4 ,two complet$ *a9s are %[n ti$ up 9 ,fig4 #bh1 & a /ock ( rolls or spools appe> aga9/ ! wall ne> ! bank4 ,! complet$ *a9 f ! w>p+ mill or ! l9k+ ma*9e is n[ tak5 to ! beam+ frame1 & aft] ! ?reads1 or r ! small gr\ps ( ?reads1 9 ! p9 lease h be5 dispos$ 9 a k9d ( co>se comb or re$1 t]m$ an v5e] or radial1 & arrang$ to occupy ! desir$ wid? 9 ! v5e]1 !y are atta*$ 9 "s suitable way to ! weav]'s beam4 ,! *a9 is held taut1 & weights appli$ to ! press] on ! beam :ile ! latt] is rotat$4 ,9 ?is way a solid compact beam ( y>n is obta9$4 ,! end ( ! w>p--t "o t goes on to ! beam la/--conta9s ! weav]'s lease1 & :5 ! complet$ beam is remov$ f ! beam+ or w9d+-on frame1 ?is s+le-?read lease enables ! next op]ative to select ! ?reads individually & to draw ! ?reads1 usually s+le1 b sometimes 9 pairs1 9 :i* case ! lease w\ld be 9 pairs1 ?r\gh ! eyes ( ! camas or ,,healds1 or to select !m = ! purpose ( ty+ !m to ! ends ( ! w>p 9 ! loom1 t is to ! ?rum ( a clo? :i* has be5 complet$4 ,in/ead ( fir/ mak+ a w>p or *a9 on ! w>p+ mill1 or on ! l9k+ ma*9e1 & !n beam+ su* w>p on to ! weav]'s beam or loom beam z already describ$1 two o!rwise di/9ct processes ( w>p+ & beam+ may be conduct$ simultane\sly4 ,?us1 ! total numb] ( ?reads requir$ = ! manufacture ( any p>ticul> k9d ( clo?--unless ! numb] ( ?reads happ5s to be v high--may be w\nd on to ! loom beam direct f ! spools4 ,say1 = example1 a w>p 0 requir$ to be #fjj y>ds long1 & t !re %\ld be #ejj ?reads 9 all4 ,five hundr$ spools ( w>p y>n w\ld be plac$ 9 ! two w+s ( a ,v-%ap$ bank1 & ! ?reads f ^! spools tak5 9 regul> ord]1 & ?read$ ?r\gh ! splits or op5+s ( a re$ :i* is plac$ 9 a suitable position 9 reg>d to ! w9d+-on me*anism4 ,"s ( ! ma*9es :i* p]=m ! w9d+-on ( ! y>n are comp>atively simple1 :ile o!rs are m or less complicat$4 ,9 "s ! loom beam rotates at a fix$ numb] ( revolutions p] m9ute1 :ile 9 o!rs ! beam rotates at a gradually decreas+ numb] ( revolutions p] m9ute4 ,"o ( ! latt] types made by ,,messrs ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee1 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bi1 & ! me*anism display$ is id5tical ) t employ$ = ,no4 #d me?od ( prep>+ w>ps4 ,! ,v-%ap$ bank ) its complem5t ( spools 7#ejj 9 our example7 w\ld occupy a position imm$iately to ! left ( ,fig4 #bi4 ,! ?reads w\ld pass ?r\gh a re$ & !n 9 a /raight wide %eet betwe5 ! pair ( roll]s1 ^! p>ts be+ conta9$ 9 ! supplem5t>y frame on ! left4 ,a simil> frame appe>s on ! extreme "r ( ! figure1 & ?is w\ld be us$ 9 conjunction ) ano!r ,v-%ap$ bank1 n %[n1 b :i* w\ld occupy a position fur!r to ! "r1 i4e4 if "o bank 0 n l>ge en\gh to hold ! requir$ numb] ( spools4 ,! "p on ! extreme "r c be ignor$ at pres5t4 ,! ?reads are arrang$ 9 exactly ! same way z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 #bh f ! bank to ! re$ 9 front ( ! roll]s 9 ,fig4 #bi1 & on em]g+ f ! pair ( roll]s are tak5 across ! /ret* betwe5 ! supplem5t>y frame & ! ma9 c5tral frame1 & atta*$ to ! weav]s beam j bel[ ! press+ roll]s4 ,x may be advisable to h ano!r re$ j be=e ! beam1 s t ! wid? occupi$ by ! ?reads 9 ! beam may be exactly ! same z ! wid? betwe5 ! two flanges ( ! loom beam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi ,,w9d+-,,on ,,or ,,dry ,,beam+ ,,ma*9e ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co4 ,ltd4 ,! spe$ ( ! ?reads is det]m9$ by ! surface spe$ ( ! two roll]s 9 ! supplem5t>y frame1 ! bottom roll] be+ positively driv5 f ! c5tral "p ?r\gh ! long horizontal %aft & a tra9 ( :eels cag$ 9 z %[n4 ,! loom beam1 :i* is se5 cle>ly imm$iately bel[ ! press+ roll]s1 is driv5 by friction because ! surface spe$ ( ! y>n mu/ be con/ant2 h5ce1 z ! diamet] ov] ! y>n on ! beam increases1 ! revolutions p] m9ute ( ! beam mu/ decrease1 & a v>y+ am\nt ( slip takes place betwe5 ! friction-discs & _! flannels4 ,z ! loom beam rotates1 ! ?reads are arrang$ 9 lay]s betwe5 ! flanges ( ! loom beam4 ,?us1 ! #ejj ?reads w\ld be arrang$ side by side1 p]haps = a wid? ( #de to #df 941 & bridg+ ! gap betwe5 ! flanges ( ! beam2 ! latt] is ?us1 to all int5ts & purposes1 a v l>ge bobb9 ^u :i* #ejj ?reads are w\nd at ! same "t1 in/ead ( "o ?read z 9 ! ord9>y b small] bobb9 or reel4 ,x w be und]/ood t 9 ! latt] case ! same ?read moves f side to side 9 ord] to bridge ! gap1 :]eas 9 ! =m] case ea* ?read ma9ta9s a fix$ position 9 ! wid?4 ,! la/ & mo/ important me?od ( mak+ a w>p1 ,no4 #d me?od1 = ! weav] is t :]e1 9 addition to ! simultane\s processes ( w>p+ & beam+ z exemplifi$ 9 ! la/ example1 all ! ?reads are coat$ ) "s suitable k9d ( />* or size imm$iately !y rea* ! two roll]s %[n 9 ! supplem5t>y frame 9 ,fig4 #bi4 ,! moi/5$ ?reads mu/1 h[ev]1 be dri$ be=e !y rea* ! loom beam4 ,:5 a w>p is />*$1 dri$ & beam$ simultane\sly1 x is said to be dress$4 ,9 ! mod]n dress+ ma*9e1 su* z t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cj1 !re are six /eam-heat$ cyl9d]s to dry ! />*$ y>ns be=e ! latt] rea* ! loom beams4 ,bo? banks1 or r "p ( bo?1 c be se5 9 ?is view1 f :i* "s idea w be =m$ ( ! great l5g? occupi$4 ,sev]al ( ! ?reads f ! spools 9 ! left bank are se5 conv]g+ t[>ds ! back re$1 !n !y pass betwe5 ! two roll]s--! bottom "o ( :i* is p>tially imm]s$ 9 ! />* tr\gh--& =w>d to ! second re$4 ,aft] ! %eet ( ?reads leaves ! second re$1 x passes p>tially r\nd a small guide roll]1 !n almo/ :olly r\nd ea* ( ?ree cyl9d]s arrang$ o1 & f9ally on to ! loom beam4 ,ea* cyl9d] is #d feet diamet]1 & ?ree ( !m occupy a position betwe5 ! left supplem5t>y frame1 & ! c5tral frame 9 ,fig4 #bi1 :ile ! rema9+ ?ree cyl9d]s are simil>ly dispos$ betwe5 ! c5tral frame & ! supplem5t>y frame ( ! "r 9 ! same illu/ration4 ,! numb] ( /eam-heat$ cyl9d]s1 & _! diamet]1 dep5d some:at ^u ! type ( y>n to be dress$1 & ^u ! spe$ :i* x is desir$ to run ! y>n4 ,a common spe$ = ord9>y-siz$ jute is f #ah to #bb y>ds p] m9ute4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj ,a ,,mod]n ,,y>n ,,dress+ ,,ma*9e ,,) ,,six ,,/eam-,,heat$ ,,cyl9d]s ,a diff]5t way ( arrang+ ! cyl9d]s is exemplifi$ 9 ,fig4 #ca4 ,?is view1 :i* illu/rates a ma*9e made by ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,dundee1 has be5 introduc$ to %[ t if ! w>ps "u prep>ation conta9 a comp>atively few ?reads1 or if ! banks are made l>g] ?an usual1 two w>ps may be dress$ at ! same "t4 ,9 su* a case1 ?ree cyl9d]s only w\ld be us$ = ea* w>p1 & ! arrangem5t w\ld be equival5t to two s+le dress+ ma*9es4 ,! two weav]'s beams1 ) _! press+ roll]s1 are %[n pla9ly 9 ! c5tre ( ! illu/ration4 ,"s ma*9es h f\r cyl9d]s1 o!rs h six1 :ile a few h eight4 ,a v simil> ma*9e to t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ca is made s t all ! six cyl9d]s may be us$ to dry y>ns f two banks1 & all ! y>ns w\nd on to "o weav]'s beam1 or all ! y>ns may be w\nd on to "o ( ! beams 9 ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ca if ! numb] ( ?reads is too _m = "o bank4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca ,,dress+ ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,prep>+ ,,two ,,w>ps ,,simultane\sly ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,suppose x is desir$ to make a w>p ( #gjj ?reads in/ead ( #ejj1 z 9 ! above example2 !n #cej spools w\ld be plac$ 9 ea* ( ! two banks1 ! ?reads dispos$ z already describ$ to use z mu* ( ! heat+ surface ( ! cyl9d] z possible1 & "o %eet ( ?reads pass$ p>tially r\nd :at is kn[n z a measur+ roll]4 ,bo? %eets ( ?reads unite into "o %eet at ! c5tre ( ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ca1 & pass 9 ?is =m on to "o ( ! loom beams4 ,x has already be5 /at$ t ! l[] roll] 9 ! />* box is positively driv5 by suitable me*anism f ! c5tral "p ( ! ma*9e1 ,fig4 #bi1 :ile ! upp] roll]1 see ,fig4 #cj1 is a press+ roll] & is cov]$ ) clo?1 usually ( a flannel type4 ,betwe5 ! two roll]s ! %eet ( #cej ?reads passes1 becomes impregnat$ ) ! />* :i* is drawn up by ! surface ( ! l[] roll]1 & ! sup]flu\s quantity is squeez$ out & returns to ! tr\gh1 or jo9s t :i* is already mov+ upw>ds t[>ds ! nip ( ! roll]s4 ,! y>n em]ges f ! roll]s & ov] ! cyl9d]s at a con/ant spe$1 :i* may be *os5 to suit exi/+ conditions1 & x mu/ also be w\nd on to ! loom beam at ! same rate4 ,b s9ce ! diamet] ( ! beam increases ea* revolution by approximately twice ! diamet] ( ! ?read1 x is necess>y to drive ! beam by "s k9d ( diff]5tial motion4 ,! usual way 9 ma*9es = dress+ jute y>ns is to drive ! beam support & ! beam by means ( friction plates4 ,a c]ta9 am\nt ( slip is always tak+ place--! drive is design$ = ?is purpose--& ! friction plates are adju/$ by ! y>n dress] dur+ ! op]ation ( dress+ to enable !m to draw =w>d ! beam1 & to slip 9 inf9itesimal sections1 s t ! y>n is drawn =w>d cont9u\sly & at uni=m spe$4 ,dur+ ! op]ation1 ! measur+ roll] & its subsequ5t tra9 ( :eels & %afts indicates ! l5g? ( y>n :i* has pass$ ov]1 also ! numb] ( cuts or pieces ( any desir$ l5g?2 9 addition1 "p ( ! measur+ & m>k+ me*anism uses an ink-pad to m>k ! y>n at ! end ( ea* cut1 su* m>k to act z a guide = ! weav]1 & to indicate ! l5g? ( w>p :i* has be5 wov54 ,?us if ! above w>p 7 int5d$ to be five cuts1 ea* #abj y>ds1 or #fjj y>ds 9 all1 ! above app>atus w\ld measure & indicate ! y>ds & cuts1 & w\ld introduce a m>k at int]vals ( #abj y>ds on "s ( ! ?reads4 ,& all ?is is done )\t /opp+ ! ma*9e4 ,at ! "t ( m>k+1 or imm$iately be=e or aft]1 j z desir$1 a bell is made to r+ automatically s t ! att5dant is w>n$ :5 ! m>k on ! w>p is ab\t to approa* ! loom beam4 ,?is bell is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bi1 ne> ! "r-h& curv$ out] surface ( ! c5tral frame4 ,z 9 h& w>p+ or 9 l9k+1 a s+le-?read lease is made at ! end ( ! desir$ l5g? ( w>p1 or else :at is kn[n z a pair ( clasp-rods is arrang$ to grip ! %eet ( w>p ?reads4 ,aft] ! loom beam1 ) its l5g? ( w>p1 has be5 remov$ f ! ma*9e1 ! ?reads are ei!r drawn ?r\gh ! eyes or mails ( ! cambs 7t]m$ ge>s1 healds or h$dles 9 o!r di/ricts7 & ?r\gh ! weav+ re$1 or else !y are ti$ to ! ends ( ! ?reads ( ! previ\s w>p :i*1 ) ! weft1 has be5 wov5 into clo?4 ,^! latt] ?reads are /ill intact 9 ! cambs & re$ 9 ! loom4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv4 ,,ty+-,,on1 ,,draw+-,,91 ,,& ,,weav+ ,if all ! ?reads ( ! newly-dress$ w>p c be ti$ on to ! ends ( ! w>p :i* has be5 wov51 x is only necess>y1 :5 ! ty+-on process is complet$1 to rotate ! loom beam sl[ly1 & simultane\sly to draw =w>d ! ?reads until all ! knots h pass$ ?r\gh ! cambs & ! re$1 & suffici5tly f> =w>d to be cle> ( ! latt] :5 x approa*es its full =w>d1 or beat+ up1 position dur+ ! op]ation ( weav+4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 ! ?reads ( ! newly-dress$1 or newly-beam$1 w>p _h to be drawn-9 & re$$1 ^! op]ations w\ld be p]=m$ 9 ! draw+-9 & re$+ dep>tm5t1 &1 :5 complet$1 ! loom beam ) its atta*$ w>p ?reads1 cambs & re$1 w\ld be tak5 bodily to ! loom :]e ! t5t]1 tackl] or tun] adju/s all ! p>ts prep>atory to ! actual op]ation ( weav+4 ,! latt] "w is (t5 t]m$ gait+ a web4 ,!re is a great simil>ity 9 _m ( ! op]ations ( weav+ ! simpl] types ( clo?1 al?\gh !re may be a consid]able diff]5ce 9 ! appe>ance ( ! clo?s !mselves4 ,9 ne>ly all ! v>i\s bran*es ( ! textile indu/ry ! bulk ( ! "w 9 ! weav+ dep>tm5ts ( su* bran*es consi/s ( ! manufacture ( comp>atively simple fabrics4 ,?us1 9 ! jute indu/ry1 !re are f\r di/9ct types ( clo? :i* pr$om9ate ov] all o!rs2 ^! types are kn[n respectively z hessian1 bagg+1 t>paul+ & sack+4 ,9 addition to ^! ma9 types1 !re are sev]al o!r simple types ! /ructure ( :i* is id5tical ) "o or o!r ( ! above f\r2 :ile f9ally !re are ! m elaborate types ( clo? :i* are embodi$ 9 ! v>i\s /ructures ( c>pets & ! l4 ,x is obvi\sly impossible to discuss ! v>i\s makes 9 a "w ( ?is k9d2 ! common] types are describ$ 9 ,jute & ,l95 ,weav+ ,calculations & ,/ructure ( ,fabrics2 & ! m elaborate ones1 z well z sev]al types ( simple ones1 appe> 9 ,textile ,design3 ,pure & ,appli$1 bo? by ,t4 ,woodh\se & ,t4 ,milne4 ,six di/9ct types ( jute fabrics are illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cb4 ,! te*nical *>act]i/ics ( ea* are z foll[s-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb ,,six ,,di/9ct ,,k9ds ,,( ,,typical ,,jute ,,fabrics ,h4--,an ord9>y ,,hessian clo? made f comp>atively f9e s+le w>p & s+le weft1 & ! ?reads int]lac$ 9 ! simple/ ord]1 t]m$ pla9 weave4 ,a wide range ( clo?s is made f ! scrims or net-l fabrics to o!rs m closely wov5 ?an t illu/rat$4 ,b4--,a ,,bagg+ made f comp>atively f9e s+le w>p arrang$ 9 pairs & !n t]m$ d\ble w>p4 ,! weft is ?ick1 & ! weave is also pla94 ,t4--,a ,,t>paul+ made f y>ns simil> to ^? 9 bagg+1 al?\gh !re is a mu* wid] range 9 ! ?ickness ( ! weft4 ,x is a mu* f9] clo? ?an ! typical bagg+1 b o!rwise ! /ructures are id5tical4 ,s4--,a /rip$ ,,sack+ made f comp>atively f9e w>p y>ns1 usually d\ble z 9 bagg+1 b occasionally s+le1 ) m$ium or ?ick weft int]wov5 9 #c-leaf or #d-leaf twill ord]4 ,! weaves are %[n 9 ,fig4 #cc4 ,c4--,"o type ( ,,c>pet clo? made exclusively f two-ply or two-fold col\r$ w>p y>ns1 & ?ick black s+le weft y>ns4 ,! ?reads & picks are int]wov5 9 two up1 two d[n twill1 direct$ to "r & !n to left1 & ?us =m+ a h]r+-bone patt]n1 or arr[-head patt]n4 ,p4-,an uncut pile fabric kn[n z ,,brussellette4 ,! figur+ w>p is compos$ ( dy$ & pr9t$ y>ns mix$ to =m an indef9ite patt]n1 & works 9 conjunction ) a gr\nd w>p & weft4 ,! weave is aga9 pla91 al?\gh ! /ructure ( ! fabric is q diff]5t f ! o!r pla9 clo?s illu/rat$4 ,! clo? is rev]sible1 ! two sides be+ simil> /ructure b diff]+ slightly 9 col\r ornam5tation4 ,z already indicat$1 !re are sev]al degrees ( f95ess or co>s5ess 9 all ! gr\ps1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! types m>k$ ,h1 ,b1 ,t & ,s4 ,! /ructure or weave 9 all v>ieties ( any "o gr\p is con/ant & z /at$4 ,all ! weaves are illu/rat$ 9 ! usual te*nical mann] 9 ,fig4 #cc1 & ! relation betwe5 ! simple/ ( ^! weaves & ! y>ns ( ! clo? is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cd4 ,9 ,fig4 #cc1 ! unit weaves 9 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e & ,f are %[n 9 solid squ>es1 :ile ! repetitions ( ! units 9 ea* case are repres5t$ by ! dots4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc ,,po9t-,,pap] ,,designs ,,%[+ ,,weav]s ,,= ,,v>i\s ,,clo?s ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd ,,diagrammatic ,,views ,,( ,,! ,,/ructure ,,( ,,pla9 ,,clo? ,a is ! pla9 weave1 #af units %[n1 & us$ = fabrics ,h & ,p1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,b is ! d\ble w>p pla9 wave1 #h units %[n1 & %[s ! me?od ( int]lac+ ! y>ns h patt]ns ,b & ,t1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,:5 ! w>p is made d\ble z indicat$ 9 weave ,b1 ! effect 9 ! clo? c be produc$ by us+ ! me*anical arrangem5ts employ$ = weave ,a4 ,h5ce1 ! clo?s ,h1 ,b & ,t c be wov5 )\t any me*anical alt]ation 9 ! loom4 ,c is ! #c-leaf d\ble w>p sack+ weave & %[s #d units2 s9ce ea* pair ( v]tical r[s ( small squ>es consi/s ( two id5tical s+le r[s1 !y may be repres5t$ z at ,d4 ,! actual /ructure ( ! clo? ,s 9 ,fig4 #cb is repres5t$ on design pap] at ,c1 ,fig4 #cc4 ,d is ! s+le w>p #c-leaf sack+ weave1 #d units %[n1 b ! me*anical p>ts = weav+ bo? ,c & ,d rema9 con/ant4 ,e is ! d\ble w>p #d-leaf sack+1 #b units %[n1 :ile ,f is ! s+le w>p #d-leaf sack+1 #d units %[n4 ,! patt]ns or clo?s = ,e & ,f are n illu/rat$4 ,g is a h]r+-bone design on #bd ?reads & #d picks1 two units %[n4 ,x is typical ( ! patt]n repres5t$ at ,c1 ,fig4 #cb1 & involves ! use ( #d leaves 9 ! loom4 ,! solid squ>es 9 weave ,a1 ,fig4 #cc1 are reproduc$ 9 ! left-h& bottom corn] ( ,fig4 #cd4 ,a diagrammatic plan ( a pla9 clo? produc$ by ?is simple ord] ( int]lac+ is exhibit$ 9 ! upp] "p by f\r %ad$ ?reads ( w>p & f\r black picks ( weft 7! diff]5ce is = di/9ction only74 ,! left-h& int]section %[s "o ?read int]weav+ ) all ! f\r picks1 :ile ! bottom int]section %[s all ! f\r ?reads int]weav+ ) "o pick4 ,! two arr[s f ! weave or design to ! ?read & pick respectively %[ ! connection1 & x w be se5 t a m>k 7solid7 on ! design repres5ts a w>p ?read on ! surface ( ! clo?1 :ile a blank squ>e repres5ts a weft %ot on ! surface1 & vice v]sa4 ,a weav+ %$ full ( v>i\s types ( looms1 & all driv5 by belts f an ov]head %aft1 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ce4 ,! loom 9 ! =egr\nd is weav+ a #c-leaf sack+ simil> to t illu/rat$ at ,s1 ,fig4 #cb4 :ile ! appe>ance ( a full weav]'s w>p beam is %[n di/9ctly 9 ! second loom 9 ,fig4 #ce4 ,!re are hundr$s ( looms 9 ?is mod]n weav+ %$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ce ,,weav+ ,,%$ ,,) ,,belt-,,driv5 ,,looms ,dur+ ! op]ation ( weav+1 ! %uttle1 9 :i* is plac$ a cop ( weft1 simil> to t on ! cop w9d+ ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #be1 & ) ! end ( ! weft ?read$ ?r\gh ! eye ( ! %uttle1 is driv5 alt]nately f side to side ( ! clo? ?r\gh ! op5+ or %$ =m$ by two lay]s ( ! w>p4 ,! positions ( ! ?reads 9 ^! two lay]s are repres5t$ by ! designs1 see ,fig4 #cc1 & :ile "o lay] occupies a high position 9 ! loom ! o!r lay] occupies a l[ position4 ,! ?reads ( ! w>p are plac$ 9 ^! two positions by ! leaves ( ! camb 7t]m$ healds & also ge>s 9 o!r di/ricts7 & x is betwe5 ^! two lay]s t ! %uttle passes1 =ms a selvage at ! edge ea* "t x makes a j\rney across1 & leaves a trail or l5g? ( weft ea* j\rney4 ,! support or lay ^u :i* ! %uttle travels moves back to provide room = ! %uttle to pass betwe5 ! two lay]s ( ?reads1 & aft] ! %uttle rea*es ! end ( ea* j\rney1 ! lay ) ! re$ comes =w>d aga91 & ?us pu%es successively ! %ots ( weft into close proximity ) ! ones :i* prec$$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf ,,looms ,,driv5 ,,) ,,individual ,,motors ,by p]mission ( ,! ,engli% ,electric ,co41 ,ltd4 ,! ord] ( lift+ & depress+ ! ?reads ( ! w>p is1 z already /at$1 demon/rat$ on ! design pap] 9 ,fig4 #cc1 & ! select$ ord] det]m9es1 9 ! simple/ cases1 ! patt]n on ! surface ( ! clo? :5 ! w>p & weft y>ns are ( ! same col\r4 ,a great div]sity ( patt]n c be obta9$ by ! me?od ( int]lac+ ! two sets ( y>n1 & a /ill great] v>iety ( patt]n is possible :5 diff]5tly-col\r$ ?reads are add$ to ! mode ( int]lac+4 ,to illu/rate ! contra/ 9 ! g5]al appe>ance ( a weav+ %$ 9 :i* all ! looms are driv5 by belts f ov]head %aft+ z 9 ,fig4 #ce1 & 9 a simil> %$ 9 :i* all ! looms are individually driv5 by small motors made by ! ,engli% ,electric ,co41 ,ltd4 we introduce ,fig4 #cf4 ,?is p>ticul> illu/ration %[s cotton weav+ %$1 b precisely ! same pr9ciple ( driv+ is be+ adopt$ 9 _m jute factories4 ,a great v>iety ( c>pet patt]ns ( a simil> nature to t illu/rat$ at ,c1 ,fig4 #cb1 c be wov5 9 looms su* z ^? illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ce2 inde$1 f> m elaborate patt]ns ?an t m5tion$ & illu/rat$ are capable ( be+ produc$ 9 ^! comp>atively simple looms4 ,:51 h[ev]1 m ?an #d leaves are requir$ = ! weav+ ( a patt]n1 a dobby loom1 ( ! nature ( t %[n 9 ,fig4 #cg1 is employ$2 ?is ma*9e is made by ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee4 ,! dobby itself1 or ! app>atus :i* lifts ! leaves accord+ to ! requirem5ts ( ! design1 is fix$ on ! upp] "p ( ! frame-"w1 & is design$ to control #ab leaves1 t is1 x op]ates #ab leaves1 ea* ( :i* lifts diff]5tly f ! o!rs4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,,fig4 #cg ,,dobby ,,loom ,a consid]able quantity ( ,wilton & ,brussels c>pets is made f jute y>ns1 & ,fig4 #ch illu/rates a loom at "w on ?is p>ticul> bran* ( ! trade4 ,! diff]5t col\rs ( w>p = =m+ ! patt]n me f small bobb9s 9 ! five frames at ! back ( ! loom 7h5ce ! t]m #e-;frame ,brussels or ,wilton c>pet7 & ! ends pass$ ?r\gh mail eyes & !n ?r\gh ! re$4 ,! design is cut on ! ?ree sets ( c>ds susp5d$ 9 ! cradles 9 ! front ( ! loom1 & ^! c>ds op]ate on ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>d ma*9e to raise ^? col\rs ( y>n :i* e necess>y to produce ! col\r effect 9 ! clo? t correspond ) ! col\r effect on ! design pap] made by ! design]4 ,?is ma*9e weaves ! actual ,brussels & ,wilton fabrics1 & ^! clo?s are q diff]5t f t illu/rat$ at ,p1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,9 bo? fabrics1 h[ev]1 gr\nd or f\ndation w>ps are requir$4 ,x ne$ h>dly be said t !re is a consid]able diff]5ce betwe5 ! two types ( clo?1 z well z betwe5 ! designs & ! looms 9 :i* !y are wov54#b ,footnote #b3 ,= /ructure ( c>pets1 see pp4 #cid-aad1 ,textile ,design3 ,pure & ,appli$1 by ,t4 ,woodh\se & ,t4 ,milne4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch ,,brussels ,,c>pet ,,jacqu>d ,,loom ,9 ! weav+ dep>tm5t !re are heavy w>p beams to be plac$ 9 ! looms1 & 9 ! f9i%+ dep>tm5t !re are (t5 heavy rolls ( clo? to be convey$ f ! ma*9es to ! despat* room4 ,accid5ts (t5 happ5 :5 ^! heavy packages1 especially ! w>p beams1 are be+ plac$ 9 position4 ,9 ord] to m9imize ! dang] to workpeople & to execute ! "w m quickly & ) few] h&s1 "s firms h in/all$ ,ov]head ,runway ,sy/ems1 ) suitable ,lift+ ,ge>1 by means ( :i* ! w>p beams are run f ! dress+ & draw+-9 dep>tm5ts direct to ! looms1 & !n l[]$ quickly & safely into ! be>+s4 ,su* means ( transport are exce$+ly valuable :]e ! looms are set close to ea* o!r & :]e wide beams are employ$2 inde$1 !y are valuable = all conditions1 & are us$ = convey+ clo? direct f ! looms z well z w>p beams to ! looms4 ,fig4 #ci %[s ! old wa/eful & sl[ me?od ( transf]r+ w>p beams f place to place1 :ile ,fig4 #dj illu/rates ! mod]n & effici5t me?od4 ,! latt] figure illu/rates "o k9d ( app>atus1 suppli$ by ,messrs4 ,h]b]t ,morris1 ,ltd41 ,l\ghbor\gh1 = ?is important bran* ( ! indu/ry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,,! ,,old ,,way ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,,! ,,new ,,way ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,h]b]t ,morris1 ,ltd4 ,,*apt] ,,xv4 ,,f9i%+ ,! f9i%+ t\*es are add$ to ! clo? aft] ! latt] leaves ! loom4 ,! fir/ op]ation is t ( inspect+ ! clo?1 remov+ ! lumps & o!r undesirables1 z well z repair+ any damag$ or imp]fect p>ts4 ,aft] ?is1 ! clo? is pass$ ?r\gh a cropp+ ma*9e ! function ( :i* is to remove all project+ fibres f ! surface ( ! clo?1 & s imp>t a clean1 sm>t appe>ance4 ,x is usual to crop bo? sides ( ! clo?1 al?\gh !re are "s clo?s :i* require only "o side to be treat$1 :ile o!rs aga9 miss ?is op]ation entirely4 ,a cropp+ ma*9e is %[n 9 ! =egr\nd ( ,fig4 #da1 & 9 ?is p>ticul> case !re are two fabrics be+ cropp$ or cut at ! same "t2 ^! happ5 to be figur$ fabrics :i* h be5 wov5 9 a jacqu>d loom simil> to t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ch4 ,! fabrics are1 inde$1 typical examples ( jute ,wilton c>pets4 ,! illu/ration %[s "o ( ! spiral cropp]s 9 ! upp] "p ( ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #da4 ,ma*9es are made usually ) ei!r two or f\r ( su* spirals ) _! correspond+ fix$ blades4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da ,,cropp+ ,,ma*9e ,,at ,,"w ,! clo? is t5sion$ ei!r by ?read+ x ov] & "u a s]ies ( /\t rails1 or else betwe5 two 9 a specially adju/able arrangem5t by means ( :i* ! t5sion may be v>i$ by rotat+ slightly ! two rails s z to alt] ! angle =m$ by ! clo? 9 contact ) !m4 ,?is is1 ( c\rse1 at ! fe$ side2 ! clo? is pull$ ?r\gh ! ma*9e by ?ree roll]s %[n di/9ctly on ! "r 9 ,fig4 #db4 ,?is view illu/rates a d\ble cropp] 9 :i* bo? ! spirals are controll$ by "o belt4 ,z ! clo? is pull$ ?r\gh1 bo? sides ( x are cropp$ by ! two spirals4#c ,:5 f\r spirals are requir$1 ! frame is mu* wid]1 & ! second set ( spirals is id5tical ) ^? 9 ! ma*9es illu/rat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig #db ,,d\ble ,,cropp+ ,,ma*9e ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,ltd4 ,footnote #c3 ,= a full description ( all f9i%+ processes1 see ,! ,f9i%+ ( ,jute & ,l95 ,fabrics1 by ,t4 ,woodh\se4 7,publi%$ by ,messrs4 ,emmott ,co41 ,ltd41 ,man*e/]47 ,! cropp$ clo? is n[ tak5 to ! clamp+ ma*9e1 & plac$ on ! floor on ! left ( ! ma*9e illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #dc1 :i* repres5ts ! type made by ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons 1 ,co41 ,dundee4 ,! clo? is pass$ bel[ a roll] ne> to ! floor1 !n upw>ds & ov] ! middle roll]1 backw>ds to be pass$ "u & ov] ! roll] on ! left1 & !n =w>ds to ! nip ( ! pull+ roll]s1 ! bottom "o ( :i* is driv5 positively by means ( a belt on ! pulleys %[n4 ,:ile ! clo? is pull$ rapidly ?r\gh ?is ma*9e1 two l9es ( f9e jets spray wat] on to ! two sides ( ! fabric to prep>e x = subsequ5t processes 9 :i* heat is g5]at$ by ! nature ( ! f9i%+ process4 ,at o!r times1 or r 9 o!r ma*9es1 ! wat] is di/ribut$ on ! two sides ( ! clo? by means ( two rapidly rotat+ bru%es :i* flick ! wat] f two roll]s rotat+ 9 a tank ( wat] at a fix$ level4 ,9 bo? cases1 bo? sides ( ! fabric are damp$1 z x is t]m$1 simultane\sly4 ,! damp$ fabric is !n all[$ to lie = sev]al h\rs to condition1 t is1 to enable ! moi/ure to spread1 & !n x is tak5 to ! cal5d]4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #dc ,,damp+ ,,ma*9e ,! cal5d]s = jute almo/ inv>iably conta9 five diff]5t roll]s1 or b[ls1 z !y are usually t]m$2 "o ( ^! b[ls1 ! smalle/ diamet] "o1 is (t5 heat$ ) /eam4 ,a five-b[l cal5d] is %[n on ! extreme "r 9 ,fig4 #da1 & 9 ! backgr\nd1 :ile a complete illu/ration ( a mod]n #e-;b[l cal5d]1 ) full equipm5t1 & made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee1 appe>s 9 ,fig4 #dd4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #dd ,,cal5d> ,! clo? is plac$ on ! floor betwe5 ! two di/9ct p>ts ( ! cal5d]1 ?read$ among/ ! t5sion rails ne> ! bottom roll] or b[l1 & !n pass$ ov] two or m ( ! b[ls accord+ to ! type ( f9i% desir$4 ,= cal5d] f9i%1 ! b[ls flatt5 ! clo? by press+ out ! ?reads & picks1 s t all ! int]/ices :i* appe> 9 mo/ clo?s z !y leave ! loom1 & :i* are exagg]at$ 9 ! plan view 9 ,fig4 #cd1 are elim9at$ by ?is cal5d]+ action4 ,! clo? is !n deliv]$ at ! f> side ( ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #dd4 ,if necess>y1 ! surface spe$ ( ! middle or /eam-heat$ roll] may diff] f ! o!rs s t a glaz$ effect--some:at resembl+ t obta9$ by ord9>y iron+--is imp>t$ to ! surface ( ! fabric4 ,! fa/] mov+ roll] is ! /eam-heat$ "o4 ,= ord9>y cal5d] f9i%1 ! surface spe$ ( all ! roll]s is ! same4 ,ano!r f9i% obta9$ on ! cal5d] is kn[n z *e/ f9i% or r\nd-?read f9i%4 ,9 ?is case1 ! :ole l5g? ( clo? is w\nd ei!r on to ! top roll]1 or ! second top "o1 ,fig4 #dd1 & :ile !re is subject$ to ! degree ( pressure requir$2 ! am\nt ( pressure c be regulat$ by ! numb] ( weights & ! way 9 :i* ! t5sion belt is atta*$ to its pulley4 ,! two sets ( weights are se5 cle>ly on ! left 9 ,fig4 #dd1 & ^! act on ! long horizontal lev]s1 usually to add pressure to ! dead weight ( ! top roll]1 b occasionally1 = v light f9i%es1 to decrease ! effective weight ( ! top b[l4 ,aft] ! clo? has be5 *e/$ on "o or o!r ( ! two top b[ls1 x is /ripp$ f ! b[l on to a light roll] %[n cle>ly ) its belt pulley 9 ,fig4 #da4 ,!re are two belt pulleys %[n on ! ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #dd2 "o is driv5 by an op5 belt1 & ! o!r by a cross$ belt4 ,provision is ?us made = driv+ ! cal5d] 9 bo? directions4 ,! pulleys are driv5 by two friction clut*es1 bo? ( :i* are inop]ative :5 ! set-on h&le is v]tical z 9 ! figure4 ,ei!r pulley may be rotat$1 h[ev]1 by mov+ ! h&le to a oblique position4 ,! comp\nd lev]age imp>t$ to ! be>+s ( ! top b[l1 & ! weights ( ! b[ls !mselves1 result 9 ! necess>y pressure1 & ?is pressure may be v>i$ accord+ to ! numb] ( small weights us$4 ,! heavie/ f9i% on ! cal5d]1 i4e4 ! *e/-f9i% on ! second top roll]1 imitates m or less ! mangle f9i%4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #de ,,hydraulic ,,mangle ,a heavy hydraulic mangle ) its accumulator & made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee1 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #de4 ,! clo? is w\nd or beam$ by ! me*anism 9 ! front on to :at is t]m$ a mangle p92 x is reality a ?ick iron b[l2 :5 ! piece is beam$1 x is automatically mov$ betwe5 two huge roll]s1 & hydraulic pressure appli$4 ,f\r n>r[ pieces are %[n 9 ,fig4 #de on ! p91 & betwe5 ! two roll]s4 ,!re are o!r f\r n>r[ pieces1 already beam$ on ano!r p91 9 ! beam+ position1 & !re is /ill ano!r p9 at ! deliv]y side ) a simil> numb] ( clo?s ready = be+ /ripp$4 ,! ?ree p9s are arrang$ ?us oo1 & s9ce all ?ree are mov$ simultane\sly1 :5 ! mangl+ op]ation is f9i%$1 ea* roll] or p9 is mov$ ?r\gh #abj4 ,?us1 ! /ripp$ p9 w be plac$ 9 ! beam+ position1 ! beam$ p9 c>ri$ into ! mangl+ position1 & ! p9 ) ! mangl$ clo? tak5 to ! /ripp+ position4 ,:ile ! op]ation ( mangl+ is proce$+1 ! roll]s move fir/ 9 "o direction & !n 9 ! o!r direction1 & ?is *ange ( direction is accompli%$ automatically by me*anism situat$ betwe5 ! accumulator & ! helical-too!d ge>+ se5 at ! f> end ( ! mangle4 ,& :ile ?is mangl+ is tak+ place1 ! op]atives are beam+ a fre% set1 :ile ! previ\sly mangles pieces are be+ /ripp$ by ! plait+-d[n app>atus :i* deposits ! clo? 9 folds4 ,?is op]ation is also kn[n z cuttl+ or fak+4 ,x w be1 und]/ood t a wide mangle1 su* z t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #de4 is con/ruct$ specially = treat+ wide fabrics1 & n>r[ fabrics are mangl$ on x simply because circum/ances & *ange ( trade f "t to "t dem& x4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,*>les ,p>k]1 ,sons ,co4 ,ltd4 ,fig #df ,,fold+1 ,,lapp+ ,,or ,,pleat+ ,,ma*9e ,! high /ructure on ! left is ! accumulator1 ! manipulation ( ?is & ! numb] ( wide weights :i* are +5i\sly br\ght into action to act on ! plung] det]m9e ! pressure :i* is appli$ to ! fabrics betwe5 ! b[ls or roll]s4 ,clo?s bo? f ! cal5d] & ! mangle n[ pass ?r\gh a measur+ ma*9e1 ! clock ( :i* records ! l5g? pass$ ?r\gh4 ,!re are usually two h&s & two circles ( numb]s on ! clock face2 "o h& regi/]s ! units up to #aj on "o circle ( numb]s1 :ile ! sl[]-mov+ h& regi/]s #aj1 #bj1 #cj1 up to #ajj4 ,! measur+ roll] 9 ^! ma*9es is usually "o y>d 9 circumf]5ce4 ,if ! clo? 9 process ( be+ f9i%$ is = use z ! back+ or f\ndation ( l9oleum1 x is inv>iably w\nd on to a wood5 c5tre z x em]ges f ! b[ls ( ! cal5d]1 measur$ z well1 & ! w9d+-on me*anism is ( a friction drive some:at simil> to t m5tion$ 9 connection ) ! dress+ ma*9e4 ,clo?s = ?is purpose are (t5 made up to #fjj y>ds 9 l5g?2 inde$1 special looms1 ) w9d+ appliances1 h be5 con/ruct$ to weave clo?s up to #b1jjj y>ds 9 l5g?4 ,special dress+ ma*9es & loom beams h to be made = ! latt] k9d4 ,:5 ! l9oleum back+ is f9i%$ at ! cal5d]1 bo? clo? & c5tre are =w>d$ direct to ! l9oleum works4 ,! empty c5tres are return$ p]iodically4 ,n>r[-wid? clo?s are (t5 made up into a roll by means ( a simple ma*9e t]m$ a cal5d]oy1 :ile some:at simil> clo?1 & sev]al types ( clo?s ( mu* wid] wid?1 are lapp$ or fold$ by special ma*9es su* z t illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #df4 ,! clo? passes ov] ! oblique bo>d1 be+ guid$ by ! discs %[n1 to ! upp] "p ( ! c>ri] :]e x passes betwe5 ! two b>s4 ,z ! c>ri] is oscillat$ f side to side 7x is ! "r h& side 9 ! illu/ration7 ! clo? is pil$ neatly 9 folds on ! convex table4 ,! c>ri]s may be adju/$ to move ?r\gh diff]5t di/ances1 s t any wid? or l5g? ( fold1 betwe5 limits1 may be made4 ,comp>atively wide pieces c be fold$ on ! above ma*9e1 b "s m]*ants pref] to h wide pieces d\bl$ l5g?wise1 & ?is is done by ma*9es ( diff]5t k9ds4 ,9 all cases1 h[ev]1 ! op]ation is t]m$ crisp+ 9 reg>d to jute fabrics4 ,?us1 ,fig4 #dg1 illu/rates "o type ( ma*9e us$ = ?is purpose1 & made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,ca41 ,ltd41 ,dundee4 ,! full-wid? clo? on ! "r has obvi\sly two prom95t /ripes--"o ne> ea* side4 ,! full wid? clo? passes upw>ds obliquely a triangul> bo>d1 & :5 ! clo? rea*es ! apex x is d\bl$ & pass$ betwe5 two b>s also set obliquely on ! left4 ,! d\bl$ piece n[ passes betwe5 a pair ( positively driv5 draw+ roll]s1 & is !n fak$1 cuttl$1 or pleat$ z indicat$4 ,! ma*9e ?us automatically1 d\bles ! piece1 & deliv]s x z exemplifi$ 9 folds ( half wid?4 ,9 o!r indu/ries1 ?is op]ation is t]m$ creas+ &1 rigg+4 ,"s ( ! lat] types ( crisp+ or creas+ ma*9es d\ble ! clo? l5g?wise z illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #dg1 &1 9 addition1 roll x at ! same "t in/ead ( deliv]+ x 9 loose folds4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t ,l9dsay ,co4 ,ltd4 ,,fig4 #dg ,,crisp+1 ,,creas+ ,,or ,,rigg+ ,,ma*9e ,if ! clo? is int5d$ to be cut up into l5g?s1 say = ! mak+ ( bags ( v>i\s k9ds1 & millions ( su* bags are made annually1 x is cut up into ! desir$ l5g?s1 ei!r by h&1 semi-me*anically1 or :olly me*anically1 & !n ! l5g?s are sewn at desir$ places by sew+ ma*9es1 & 9 v>i\s ways accord+ to requirem5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co4 ,ltd ,,fig #dh ,,semi-,,me*anical ,,bag ,,or ,,sack ,,cutt+ ,,ma*9e ,fig4 #dh illu/rates "o ( ! semi-me*anical ma*9es = ?is purpose2 ?is p>ticul> type be+ made by ,messrs4 ,urquh>t1 ,l9dsay ,co41 ,ltd41 ,dundee4 ,ab\t eight or n9e diff]5t clo?s are arrang$ 9 frames beh9d ! cutt+ ma*9e1 & ! ends ( ^! clo?s pass$ betwe5 ! horizontal b>s at ! back ( ! ma*9e4 ,!y are !n l$ betwe5 ! roll]s1 "u ! cutt+ knife1 & on to ! table4 ,! l5g? ( clo? is measur$ z x passes betwe5 ! roll]s1 & diff]5t *ange p9ions are suppli$ s t practically any l5g? may be cut4 ,eight or n9e l5g?s are ?us pass$ "u ! knife frame simultane\sly1 & :5 ! requir$ l5g? has be5 deliv]$1 ! op]ative ins]ts ! knife 9 ! slot ( ! knife frame1 & pu%es x =w>d by means ( ! long h&le %[n di/9ctly above ! frame & table4 ,he ?us cuts eight or n9e at a "t1 aft] :i* a fur!r l5g? is drawn =w>d1 & ! cycle repeat$4 ,means are provid$ = regi/]+ ! numb] pass$ ?r\gh2 f #cf1jjj y>ds to #dj1jjj y>ds c be treat$ p] day4 ,! bags may be made ( diff]5t mat]ials1 e4g4 ! fir/ f\r 9 ,fig4 #cb4 ,:5 hessian clo?1 ,,ii1 ,fig4 #cb1 is us$1 ! sew+ is usually done by quick-runn+ small ma*9es1 su* z ! ,yankee or ,union2 ea* ( ^! ma*9es is capable ( sew+ m ?an #b1jjj bags p] day4 ,= ! heavi] types ( clo?1 su* z sack+1 ,s1 ,fig4 #cb1 ! sew+ is almo/ inv>iably done by ! ,la+ or ov]head sew+ ma*9e1 ! g5]al type ( :i* is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #di1 & made by ,mr4 ,d4 ,j4 ,macdonald1 ,s\? ,/4 ,roque's ,works1 ,dundee4 ,?is is an absolutely fa/ /it*1 & approximately #a1jjj bags c be sewn 9 "o day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di ,,ov]head 7,,la+7 ,,sack ,,sew+ ,,ma*9e ,by p]mission ( ,mr4 ,d4 ,j4 ,macdonald ,! di/9ctive m>ks 9 bags = id5tification (t5 take ! =m ( col\r$ /ripes wov5 9 ! clo?1 & z illu/rat$ at ,s1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,x is obvi\s t a consid]able v>iety c be made by alt]+ ! numb] ( ! /ripes1 _! position1 & _! wid?1 :ile if diff]5t col\r$ ?reads appe> 9 ! same clo?1 ! v>iety is /ill fur!r increas$4 ,_m firms1 h[ev]1 pref] to h _! names1 trade m>ks1 & o!r di/9ctive features pr9t$ on ! bags2 9 ^! cases1 ! necess>y p>ticul>s are pr9t$ on ! o!rwise complet$ bag by a sack-pr9t+ ma*9e ( ! flat-b$ or circul> roll] type4 ,! latt] type1 :i* is mo/ l>gely us$1 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ej4 ,x is t]m$ a two-col\r ma*9e1 & is made by ,mr4 ,d4 ,j4 ,macdonald1 ,dundee2 x w be obs]v$ t !re are two roll]s = ! two di/9ct col\rs1 say r$ & black4 ,occasionally ?ree & f\r-col\r ma*9es are us$1 b ! "o-col\r type is probably ! mo/ common4 ,illu/ration3 ,by ,p]mission ( ,mr4 ,d4 ,j4 ,macdonald4 ,,fig #ej ,,sack ,,pr9t+ ,,ma*9e ,! own]%ip ( ! bags c ?us be %[n di/9ctly by "o ( ! _m me?ods ( col\r pr9t+1 & if any firm desires to numb] _! bags consecutively 9 ord] to provide a record ( _! /ock1 or = any o!r purpose1 ! bags may be s numb]$ by means ( a special numb]+ ma*9e1 also made by ,mr4 ,d4 ,j4 ,macdonald4 ,! la/ op]ation1 exclud+ ! actual deliv]y ( ! goods1 is t ( pack+ ! pieces or bags 9 small compass by means ( a hydraulic press4 ,! goods are plac$ on ! l[] mov+ table ^u a suitable wrapp+ ( "s k9d ( jute clo?2 :5 ! requisite quantity has be5 plac$ !reon1 ! top & side wrapp]s are plac$ 9 position1 & ! pumps />t$ 9 ord] to raise ! bottom table & to squeeze ! cont5t betwe5 x & ! top fix$ table4 ,f #a #a_/b ton to #b tons p] squ>e in* is appli$ accord+ to ! nature ( ! goods & _! de/9ation4 ,:ile ! goods are ?us held securely 9 position betwe5 ! two plates1 ! wrapp]s a sewn toge!r4 ,!n specially prep>$ hoops or metal b&s are plac$ r\nd ! bale1 & an +5i\s & simple sy/em1 involv+ a buckle & two p9s1 adopt$ = fa/5+ ! bale4 ,! ends ( ! hoop or b& are b5t 9 a small press1 & ^! b5t ends are pass$ ?r\gh a rectangul> hole 9 ! buckle & ! p9s ins]t$ 9 ! loops4 ,z soon z ! hydraulic pressure is remov$1 ! bale exp&s slightly1 & ! buckl$ hoop grips ! bale securely4 ,su* is 9 brief ! r\t9e foll[$ 9 ! production ( ! fibre1 ! trans=mation ( ?is fibre1 fir/ into y>n1 & !n into clo?1 & ! use ( ! latt] 9 p]=m+ ! function ( ! _w's common c>ri]4 ,,index ,,accumulator ,assort+ jute fibre4 ,,bag-,,mak+ ,bale op5] op5+ ,bal+ clo? h\se press /ation ,ba/ lay] 7see also ,fibr\s lay]7 ,bat* ,bat*]s ,bat*+ app>atus c>ts or /alls ,bat*-ticket ,beam]'s lease ,beam+ 7dry7 direct f bank1 ,bl5d+ ,bobb9 w9d+ ,bojah ,botanical features ( jute plants ,break] c>d ,brussels c>pet ,bundle ( jute4 ,,calcutta1 jute ma*9]y introduc$ into ,cal5d] f9i% ,cal5d]oy ,c>d+ ,c>d wa/e ,c>goes ( jute ,*e/ f9i% ,clasp-rods ,condition+ fibre ,cops ,cop w9d+ ,cor*orus capsul>is clitorius ,crisp+ & crisp+ ma*9es ,cropp+ ma*9e ,cultivation ( jute ,cutt+ knife = jute fibre ,cutt+s4 ,,damp+ ma*9e ,defects 9 fibre & 9 h&l+ ,designs or weaves ,diff]5tial motion ,dobby loom ,draft ,draft+ ,draw+ frames diff]5t k9ds ( ,draw+-9 ,dress+ & dress+ ma*9e ,drum ,dry+ jute fibre ,du/ %ak]4 ,,ea/ ,india ,co4 ,exports ( jute f ,india4 ,,fabrics ,fall] ,f>m+ op]ations ,fibres1 ! five ma9 imports ( jute4 ,fibr\s lay] ,f9i%] c>d ,f9i%+ fold+ ma*9e4 ,gait+ ,glaz$ f9i% ,grad+ jute fibre ,gunny bags4 ,h& bat*+ ,h>ve/+ ! plants ,height ( jute plants ,hydraulic mangle press4 ,id5tification m>ks on bags ,imports ( jute4 ,jacqu>d loom ,jute crop exports f ,india fabrics fibre1 imports ( indu/ry knife plants1 botanical & physical features ( cultivation ( height ( m>ks4 ,ladd]+ ,ladd]s ,lapp+ ma*9e ,l9k+ ma*9e ,l9oleum ,looms ,lubrication ( fibre4 ,ma*9e bat*+ ,ma*9]y = jute manufacture introduc$ into ,calcutta ,mangle f9i% 7hydraulic7 ,m>ks ( jute 7see jute m>ks7 ,maund ,measur+ & m>k+ ma*9e ma*9e = clo? ! w>p ,me?ods ( prep>+ w>ps ,multiple-col\r pr9t+ ma*9es4 ,numb]+ ma*9e = bags4 ,op5+ jute heads ,ov]head runway sy/ems sew+ ma*9e 7,la+'s74 ,pack+ goods ,physical features ( jute plants ,p9-lease ,plait+ ma*9e ,plants1 ?9n+ ( we$+ ( ,pl\ghs = jute cultivation ,po9t-pap] designs ,porcup9e fe$ ,pr9t+ ma*9e4 ,rea* ,reel+ ,rett+ ,roll]-fe$ ,rolls ,root-comb] op5] ,r\nd-?read f9i% ,rove ,rov+ frame ,roxburgh1 ,dr4 ,sack-cutt+ frame1 semi-me*anical ,sack mak+ pr9t+ ma*9e ,s& bags ,se$ p] acre1 am\nt ( s[+ ( ,sew+ ma*9es ,%ell-fe$ ,%ort-tell ,snipp+ ma*9e ,s(t5+ ma*9es ,sp9n+ ,spool or roll w9d+ ,spools 7see ,rolls7 ,/&>d bale ,/>*+ 7see ,dress+7 ,/eep+ 7see ,rett+7 ,/rik]-up 7see ,bat*]7 ,/ripp+ ,sy/ems4 ,teaz] ,tell 7( y>n7 ,?9n+ ( plants ,?rum ,"t = h>ve/+ ! plants ,tube-twi/]s ,twi/ ,twi/+ ,two-col\r pr9t+ ma*9e ,ty+-on ,typical jute fabrics4 ,union ,or ,yankee sew+ ma*9e ,unload+ bales ( jute f %ip4 ,v>iations 9 jute ,v>ieties ( jute fibre plants4 ,w>p ,w>p dress+ 7see ,dress+7 ,w>p+1 beam+ & dress+ mill ,wa%+ ,wa/e teaz] ,weaves or designs ,weav+ ,weav]'s lease ,we$+ ( plants ,weft w9d+ ,wilton c>pet ,w9d+ 7bobb97 ma*9e f hank 7l>ge roll7 ma*9e 7ord9>y size f hanks7 ma*9e rolls & cops ,_w's great w>4 ,yankee or ,union sew+ ma*9e ,y>n table ,yield ( fibre4 ,pr9t$ by ,sir ,isaac ,pitman ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,ba?1 ,engl& ,adv]tisem5t #ad3 ,?omas ,h>t1 ,,ltd42 ,,david ,,keay ,,leslie ,adv]tisem5t #ae3 ,,royles ,,limit$4 ,adv]tisem5t #af3 ,d4 ,j4 ,,macdonald ,c4,e41 ,m4 ,i4,m4 ,,e*4,e4 ,adv]tisem5t #ag3 ,,rob]tson ,,or*>1 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #ah3 ,,:ite1 ,,*ild ,,b5ey1 ,,limit$ ,adv]tisem5t #ai3 ,,! ,,briti% ,,nor?rop ,,loom ,,co41 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #bj3 ,,fr$]ick ,,smi? ,,co4 ,adv]tisem5t #ba3 ,,! ,,skefko ,,ball ,,be>+ ,,co41 ,,ltd4 ,adv]tisem5t #bb3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,ari?metic ,adv]tisem5t #bc3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,book-,,keep+ ,,acc\ntancy ,adv]tisem5t #bd3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,bus9ess ,,tra9+ ,adv]tisem5t #be3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,civil ,,s]vice ,adv]tisem5t #bf3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,engli%1 ,,hi/ory ,adv]tisem5t #bf3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,economics1 ,,bank+ ,adv]tisem5t #bg3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,insurance1 ,,%ipp+1 ,,income ,,tax ,adv]tisem5t #bh3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,adm9i/ration1 ,,adv]tis+ ,adv]tisem5t #bi3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,h&books1 ,,ref]5ce ,adv]tisem5t #cj3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,commodities1 ,,law ,adv]tisem5t #ca3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,fr5* ,adv]tisem5t #cb3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,g]man1 ,,spani% ,adv]tisem5t #cc3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,italian1 ,,%or?& ,adv]tisem5t #cd3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,%or?& ,,diction>ies1 ,,phrases ,adv]tisem5t #ce3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,%or?& ,,spe$ ,,practice1 ,,read+ ,adv]tisem5t #cf3 ,,pitman ,,h&books3 ,,tea*+1 ,,typewrit+1 ,,p]iodicals ,adv]tisem5t #cf3 ,,h5ry ,,taylor ,,sons1 ,,ltd41 ,,pitman',s ,,books ,adv]tisem5t #cg3 ,,?os4 ,,broadb5t ,,sons1 ,,ltd4