file which includes the original        
illustrations4       ,see #abbic-;h4htm 
or #abbic-;h4zip3                       
7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/#a_/b_/b_/
i_/abbic_/abbic-;h_/#abbic-;h4htm7      
or                                      
7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/#a_/b_/b_/
i_/abbic_/abbic-;h4zip7      ,the       
,book-,lover's ,library  ,edited by     
,henry ,b4 ,wheatley1 ,f4,s4,a4         
,,old ,,cookery ,,books ,,and ,,ancient 
,,cuisine  ,,by  ,w4 ,,carew ,,hazlitt  
,london  #aijb       ,,the              
,,book-,,lovers ,,library was first     
published in the following styles3  ,no4
 #a4--,printed on antique paper1 in     
cloth bevelled with rough edges1 price  
#ds4 #f;d4  ,no4 #b4--,printed on       
hand-made paper1 in ,roxburgh1 half     
morocco1 with gilt top3 #bej only are   
printed1 for sale in ,england1 price    
#gs4 #f;d4  ,no4 #c4--,large paper      
edition1 on hand-made paper2 of which   
#ej copies only are printed1 and bound  
in ,roxburgh1 for sale in ,england1     

price #a #as4  ,there are a few sets    
left1 and can be had on application to  
the ,publisher4     ,,introductory      
,man has been distinguished from other  
animals in various ways2 but perhaps    
there is no particular in which he      
exhibits so marked a difference from the
 rest of creation--not even in the      
prehensile faculty resident in his      
hand--as in the objection to raw food1  
meat1 and vegetables4 ,he approximates  
to his inferior contemporaries only in  
the matter of fruit1 salads1 and        
oysters1 not to mention wild-duck4 ,he  
entertains no sympathy with the         
cannibal1 who judges the flavour of his 
enemy improved by temporary commitment  
to a subterranean larder2 yet1 to be    
sure1 he keeps his grouse and his       
venison till it approaches the condition
 of spoon-meat4  ,it naturally ensues1  
from the absence or scantiness of       
explicit or systematic information      
connected with the opening stages of    
such inquiries as the present1 that the 

student is compelled to draw his own    
inferences from indirect or unwitting   
allusion2 but so long as conjecture and 
hypothesis are not too freely indulged1 
this class of evidence is1 as a rule1   
tolerably trustworthy1 and is1 moreover1
 open to verification4  ,when we pass   
from an examination of the state of the 
question as regarded ,cookery in very   
early times among us1 before an even    
more valuable art--that of              
,printing--was discovered1 we shall find
 ourselves face to face with a rich and 
long chronological series of books on   
the ,mystery1 the titles and fore-fronts
 of which are often not without a kind  
of fragrance and got4  ,as the space    
allotted to me is limited1 and as the   
sketch left by ,warner of the convivial 
habits and household arrangements of the
 ,saxons or ,normans in this island1 as 
well as of the monastic institutions1 is
 more copious than any which ,i could   
offer1 it may be best to refer simply to
 his elaborate preface4 ,but it may be  

pointed out generally that the          
establishment of the ,norman sway not   
only purged of some of their            
,anglo-,danish barbarism the tables of  
the nobility and the higher classes1 but
 did much to spread among the poor a    
thriftier manipulation of the articles  
of food by a resort to broths1 messes1  
and hot-pots4 ,in the poorer districts1 
in ,normandy as well as in ,brittany1   
,duke ,william would probably find very 
little alteration in the mode of        
preparing victuals from that which was  
in use in his day1 eight hundred years  
ago1 if 7like another ,arthur7 he should
 return among his ancient compatriots2  
but in his adopted country he would see 
that there had been a considerable      
revolt from the common saucepan--not to 
add from the pseudo-,arthurian          
bag-pudding2 and that the ,english      
artisan1 if he could get a rump-steak or
 a leg of mutton once a week1 was       
content to starve on the other six days4
  ,those who desire to be more amply    

informed of the domestic economy of the 
ancient court1 and to study the         
minutiae1 into which ,i am precluded    
from entering1 can easily gratify       
themselves in the pages of ,the         
,ordinances and ,regulations for the    
,government of the ,royal ,household1   
#agij2 ,the ,northumberland ,household  
,book2 and the various printed volumes  
of ,privy ,purse ,expenses of royal and 
great personages1 including ,the        
,household ,roll of ,bishop ,swinfield  
7#abhi-ij74  ,the late ,mr4 ,green1 in  
his ,history of the ,english ,people    
7#ahhj-c1 #d vols4 #hvo71 does not seem 
to have concerned himself about the     
kitchens or gardens of the nation which 
he undertook to describe4 ,yet1 what    
conspicuous elements these have been in 
our social and domestic progress1 and   
what civilising factors6  ,to a proper  
and accurate appreciation of the cookery
 of ancient times among ourselves1 a    
knowledge of its condition in other more
 or less neighbouring countries1 and of 

the surrounding influences and          
conditions which marked the dawn of the 
art in ,england1 and its slow transition
 to a luxurious excess1 would be in     
strictness necessary2 but ,i am tempted 
to refer the reader to an admirable     
series of papers which appeared on this 
subject in ,barker's ,domestic          
,architecture1 and were collected in    
#ahfa1 under the title of ,our ,english 
,home3 its ,early ,history and          
,progress4 ,in this little volume the   
author1 who does not give his name1 has 
drawn together in a succinct compass the
 collateral information which will help 
to render the following pages more      
luminous and interesting4 ,an essay     
might be written on the appointments of 
the table only1 their introduction1     
development1 and multiplication4  ,the  
history and antiquities of the ,culinary
 ,art among the ,greeks are handled with
 his usual care and skill by ,m4,j4,a4  
,st4 ,john in his ,manners and ,customs 
of ,ancient ,greece1 #ahdb2 and in the  

,biblia or ,hebrew ,scriptures we get an
 indirect insight into the method of    
cooking from the forms of sacrifice4    
,the earliest legend which remains to us
 of ,hellenic gastronomy is associated  
with cannibalism4 ,it is the story of   
,pelops--an episode almost pre-,homeric1
 where a certain rudimentary knowledge  
of dressing flesh1 and even of          
disguising its real nature1 is implied  
in the tale1 as it descends to us2 and  
the next in order of times is perhaps   
the familiar passage in the ,odyssey1   
recounting the adventures of ,odysseus  
and his companions in the cave of       
,polyphemus4 ,here1 again1 we are       
introduced to a rude society of         
cave-dwellers1 who eat human flesh1 if  
not as an habitual diet1 yet not only   
without reluctance1 but with relish and 
enjoyment4  ,the ,phagetica of ,ennius1 
of which fragments remain1 seems to be  
the most ancient treatise of the kind in
 ,roman literature4 ,it is supposed to  
relate an account of edible fishes2 but 

in a complete state the work may very   
well have amounted to a general ,manual 
on the subject4 ,in relation even to    
,homer1 the ,phagetica is comparatively 
modern1 following the ,odyssey at a     
distance of some six centuries2 and in  
the interval it is extremely likely that
 anthropophagy had become rarer among   
the ,greeks1 and that if they still     
continued to be cooking animals1 they   
were relinquishing the practice of      
cooking one another4  ,mr4 ,ferguson1   
again1 has built on ,athenaeus and other
 authorities a highly valuable paper on 
,the ,formation of the ,palate1 and the 
late ,mr4 ,coote1 in the forty-first    
volume of ,archaeologia1 has a second on
 the ,cuisine ,bourgeoise of ancient    
,rome4 ,these two essays1 with the      
,fairfax ,inventories communicated to   
the forty-eighth volume of the          
,archaeologia by ,mr4 ,peacock1 cover   
much of the ground which had been       
scarcely traversed before by any        
scientific ,english inquirer4 ,the      

importance of an insight into the       
culinary economy of the ,romans lies in 
the obligations under which the more    
western nations of ,europe are to it for
 nearly all that they at first knew upon
 the subject4 ,the ,romans1 on their    
part1 were borrowers in this1 as in     
other1 sciences from ,greece1 where the 
arts of cookery and medicine were       
associated1 and were studied by         
physicians of the greatest eminence2 and
 to ,greece these mysteries found their 
way from ,oriental sources4 ,but the    
school of cookery which the ,romans     
introduced into ,britain was gradually  
superseded in large measure by one more 
agreeable to the climate and physical   
demands of the people2 and the free use 
of animal food1 which was probably never
 a leading feature in the diet of the   
,italians as a community1 and may be    
treated as an incidence of imperial     
luxury1 proved not merely innocuous1 but
 actually beneficial to a more northerly
 race4  ,so little is to be             

collected--in the shape of direct       
testimony1 next to nothing--of the      
domestic life of the ,britons--that it  
is only by conjecture that one arrives  
at the conclusion that the original diet
 of our countrymen consisted of         
vegetables1 wild fruit1 the honey of    
wild bees--which is still extensively   
used in this country1--a coarse sort of 
bread1 and milk4 ,the latter was        
evidently treated as a very precious    
article of consumption1 and its value   
was enhanced by the absence of oil and  
the apparent want of butter4 ,mr4       
,ferguson supposes1 from some remains of
 newly-born calves1 that our ancestors  
sacrificed the young of the cow rather  
than submit to a loss of the milk2 but  
it was1 on the contrary1 an early       
superstition1 and may be1 on obvious    
grounds1 a fact1 that the presence of   
the young increased the yield in the    
mother1 and that the removal of the calf
 was detrimental4 ,the ,italian invaders
 augmented and enriched the fare1       

without1 perhaps1 materially altering   
its character2 and the first decided    
reformation in the mode of living here  
was doubtless achieved by the ,saxon and
 ,danish settlers2 for those in the     
south1 who had migrated hither from the 
,low ,countries1 ate little flesh1 and  
indeed1 as to certain animals1          
cherished1 according to ,caesar1        
religious scruples against it4  ,it was 
to the hunting tribes1 who came to us   
from regions even bleaker and more      
exacting than our own1 that the southern
 counties owed the taste for venison and
 a call for some nourishment more       
sustaining than farinaceous substances1 
green stuff and milk1 as well as a      
gradual dissipation of the prejudice    
against the hare1 the goose1 and the hen
 as articles of food1 which the         
,commentaries record4 ,it is            
characteristic of the nature of our     
nationality1 however1 that while the    
,anglo-,saxons and their successors     
refused to confine themselves to the    

fare which was more or less adequate to 
the purposes of archaic pastoral life in
 this island1 they by no means renounced
 their partiality for farm and garden   
produce1 but by a fusion of culinary    
tastes and experiences akin to fusion of
 race and blood1 laid the basis of the  
splendid cuisine of the ,plantagenet and
 ,tudor periods4 ,our cookery is1 like  
our tongue1 an amalgam4  ,but the ,roman
 historian saw little or nothing of our 
country except those portions which lay 
along or near the southern coast2 the   
rest of his narrative was founded on    
hearsay2 and he admits that the people  
in the interior--those beyond the range 
of his personal knowledge1 more         
particularly the northern tribes and the
 ,scots--were flesh-eaters1 by which he 
probably intends1 not consumers of      
cattle1 but of the venison1 game1 and   
fish which abounded in their forests and
 rivers4 ,the various parts of this     
country were in ,caesar's day1 and very 
long after1 more distinct from each     

other for all purposes of communication 
and intercourse than we are now from    
,spain or from ,switzerland2 and the    
foreign influences which affected the   
,south ,britons made no mark on those   
petty states which lay at a distance1   
and whose diet was governed by purely   
local conditions4 ,the dwellers         
northward were by nature hunters and    
fishermen1 and became only by ,act of   
,parliament poachers1 smugglers1 and    
illicit distillers2 the province of the 
male portion of the family was to find  
food for the rest2 and a pair of spurs  
laid on an empty trencher was well      
understood by the goodman as a token    
that the larder was empty and           
replenishable4  ,there are new books on 
all subjects1 of which it is            
comparatively easy within a moderate    
compass to afford an intelligible1      
perhaps even a sufficient1 account4 ,but
 there are others which ,i1 for my part1
 hesitate to touch1 and which do not    
seem to be amenable to the law of       

selection4 ,studies in ,nidderland1 by  
,mr4 ,joseph ,lucas1 is one of these4   
,it was a labour of love1 and it is full
 of records of singular survivals to our
 time of archaisms of all descriptions1 
culinary and gardening utensils not     
forgotten4 ,there is one point1 which ,i
 may perhaps advert to1 and it is the   
square of wood with a handle1 which the 
folk in that part of ,yorkshire         
employed1 in lieu of the ladle1 for     
stirring1 and the stone ovens for       
baking1 which1 the author tells us1     
occur also in a part of ,surrey4 ,but   
the volume should be read as a whole4   
,we have of such too few4  ,under the   
name of a ,roman epicure1 ,coelius      
,apicius1 has come down to us what may  
be accepted as the most ancient         
,european ,book of ,cookery4 ,i think   
that the idea widely entertained as to  
this work having proceeded from the pen 
of a man1 after whom it was christened1 
has no more substantial basis than a    
theory would have that the ,arabian     

,nights were composed by ,haroun al     
,raschid4 ,warner1 in the introduction  
to his ,antiquitates ,culinariae1 #agia1
 adduces as a specimen of the rest two  
receipts from this collection1 shewing  
how the ,roman cook of the ,apician     
epoch was wont to dress a hog's paunch1 
and to manufacture sauce for a boiled   
chicken4 ,of the three persons who bore 
the name1 it seems to be thought most   
likely that the one who lived under     
,trajan was the true godfather of the   
,culinary ,manual4  ,one of ,massinger's
 characters 7,holdfast7 in the ,city    
,madam1 #afeh1 is made to charge the    
gourmets of his time with all the sins  
of extravagance perpetrated in their    
most luxurious and fantastic epoch4 ,the
 object was to amuse the audience2 but  
in ,england no court gluttony1 much less
 country ,christmas1 ever saw buttered  
eggs which had cost #cj1 or pies of     
carps' tongues1 or pheasants drenched   
with ambergris1 or sauce for a peacock  
made of the gravy of three fat wethers1 

or sucking pigs at twenty marks each4   
,both ,apicius and our ,joe ,miller died
 within #hj1jjj of being                
beggars--,miller something the nigher to
 that goal2 and there was this community
 of insincerity also1 that neither      
really wrote the books which carry their
 names4 ,miller could not make a joke or
 understand one when anybody else made  
it4 ,his ,roman foregoer1 who would     
certainly never have gone for his dinner
 to ,clare ,market1 relished good       
dishes1 even if he could not cook them4 
,it appears not unlikely that the       
,romish clergy1 whose monastic vows     
committed them to a secluded life1 were 
thus led to seek some compensation for  
the loss of other worldly pleasures in  
those of the table2 and that1 when one  
considers the luxury of the old abbeys1 
one ought to recollect at the same time1
 that it was perhaps in this case as it 
was in regard to letters and the arts1  
and that we are under a certain amount  
of obligation to the monks for modifying

 the barbarism of the table1 and        
encouraging a study of gastronomy4      
,there are more ways to fame than even  
,horace suspected4 ,the road to         
immortality is not one but manifold4 ,a 
man can but do what he can4 ,as the poet
 writes and the painter fills with his  
inspiration the mute and void canvas1 so
 doth the ,cook his part4 ,there was    
formerly apopular work in ,france       
entitled ,le ,cuisinier ,royal1 by ,,mm4
 ,viard and ,fouret1 who describe       
themselves as ,hommes de ,bouche4 ,the  
twelfth edition lies before me1 a thick 
octavo volume1 dated #ahje4 ,the        
title-page is succeeded by an anonymous 
address to the reader1 at the foot of   
which occurs a peremptory warning to    
pilferers of dishes or parts thereof2 in
 other words1 to piratical invaders of  
the copyright of ,monsieur ,barba4      
,there is a preface equally unclaimed by
 signatures or initials1 but as it is in
 the singular number the two hommes de  
bouche can scarcely have written it2    

perchance it was ,m4 ,barba aforesaid1  
lord-proprietor of these                
not-to-be-touched treasures2 but anyhow 
the writer had a very solemn feeling of 
the debt which he had conferred on      
society by making the contents public   
for the twelfth time1 and he concludes  
with a mixture of sentiments1 which it  
is very difficult to define3 ,dans la   
paix de ma conscience1 non moins que    
dans l'orgueil d'avoir si honorablement 
rempli cette importante mission1 je     
m'ecrierai avec le poete des gourmands  
et des amoureux3    ,exegi monumentum   
aere perennius   ,non omnis moriar4     
,,the ,,early ,,englishman ,,and ,,his  
,,food4   ,william of ,malmesbury       
particularly dwells on the broad line of
 distinction still existing between the 
southern ,english and the folk of the   
more northerly districts in his day1    
twelve hundred years after the visit of 
,caesar4 ,he says that they were then   
7about ,a4,d4 #aaej7 as different as if 
they had been different races2 and so in

 fact they were--different in their     
origin1 in their language1 and their    
diet4  ,in his ,folk-lore ,relics of    
,early ,village ,life1 #ahhc1 ,mr4      
,gomme devotes a chapter to ,early      
,domestic ,customs1 and quotes ,henry's 
,history of ,great ,britain for a highly
 curious clue to the primitive mode of  
dressing food1 and partaking of it1     
among the ,britons4 ,among the          
,anglo-,saxons the choice of poultry and
 game was fairly wide4 ,alexander       
,neckani1 in his ,treatise on ,utensils 
7twelfth century7 gives fowls1 cocks1   
peacocks1 the cock of the wood 7the     
woodcock1 not the capercailzie71        
thrushes1 pheasants1 and several more2  
and pigeons were only too plentiful4    
,the hare and the rabbit were well      
enough known1 and with the leveret form 
part of an enumeration of wild animals  
7animalium ferarum7 in a pictorial      
vocabulary of the fifteenth century4    
,but in the very early accounts or      
lists1 although they must have soon been

 brought into requisition1 they are not 
specifically cited as current dishes4   
,how far this is attributable to the    
alleged repugnance of the ,britons to   
use the hare for the table1 as ,caesar  
apprises us that they kept it only      
voluptatis caus1 it is hard to say2 but 
the way in which the author of the      
,commentaries puts it induces the       
persuasion that by lepus he means not   
the hare1 but the rabbit1 as the former 
would scarcely be domesticated4  ,neckam
 gives very minute directions for the   
preparation of pork for the table4 ,he  
appears to have considered that broiling
 on the grill was the best way2 the     
gridiron had supplanted the hot stones  
or bricks in more fashionable           
households1 and he recommends a brisk   
fire1 perhaps with an eye to the skilful
 development of the crackling4 ,he died 
without the happiness of bringing his   
archi-episcopal nostrils in contact with
 the sage and onions of wiser           
generations1 and thinks that a little   

salt is enough4 ,but1 as we have before 
explained1 ,neckam prescribed for great 
folks4 ,these refinements were unknown  
beyond the precincts of the palace and  
the castle4  ,in the ancient            
cookery-book1 the ,menagier de ,paris1  
#acic1 which offers numerous points of  
similarity to our native culinary lore1 
the resources of the cuisine are        
represented as amplified by receipts for
 dressing hedgehogs1 squirrels1 magpies1
 and jackdaws--small deer1 which the    
,english experts did not affect1        
although ,i believe that the hedgehog is
 frequently used to this day by country 
folk1 both here and abroad1 and in      
,india4 ,it has white1 rabbit-like      
flesh4  ,in an eleventh century         
vocabulary we meet with a tolerably rich
 variety of fish1 of which the          
consumption was relatively larger in    
former times4 ,the ,saxons fished both  
with the basket and the net4 ,among the 
fish here enumerated are the whale      
7which was largely used for food71 the  

dolphin1 porpoise1 crab1 oyster1        
herring1 cockle1 smelt1 and eel4 ,but in
 the supplement to ,alfric's vocabulary1
 and in another belonging to the same   
epoch1 there are important additions to 
this list3 the salmon1 the trout1 the   
lobster1 the bleak1 with the whelk and  
other shell-fish4 ,but we do not notice 
the turbot1 sole1 and many other        
varieties1 which became familiar in the 
next generation or so4 ,the turbot and  
sole are indeed included in the         
,treatise on ,utensils of ,neckam1 as   
are likewise the lamprey 7of which ,king
 ,john is said to have been very fond71 
bleak1 gudgeon1 conger1 plaice1 limpet1 
ray1 and mackerel4  ,the fifteenth      
century1 if ,i may judge from a         
vocabulary of that date in ,wright's    
collection1 acquired a much larger      
choice of fish1 and some of the names   
approximate more nearly to those in     
modern use4 ,we meet with the sturgeon1 
the whiting1 the roach1 the miller's    
thumb1 the thomback1 the codling1 the   

perch1 the gudgeon1 the turbot1 the     
pike1 the tench1 and the haddock4 ,it is
 worth noticing also that a distinction 
was now drawn between the fisherman and 
the fishmonger--the man who caught the  
fish and he who sold it--piscator and   
piscarius2 and in the vocabulary itself 
the leonine line is cited3 ,piscator    
prendit1 quod piscarius bene vendit4    
,the whale was considerably brought into
 requisition for gastronomic purposes4  
,it was found on the royal table1 as    
well as on that of the ,lord ,mayor of  
,london4 ,the cook either roasted it1   
and served it up on the spit1 or boiled 
it and sent it in with peas2 the tongue 
and the tail were favourite parts4  ,the
 porpoise1 however1 was brought into the
 hall whole1 and was carved or          
under-tranched by the officer in        
attendance4 ,it was eaten with mustard4 
,the pice de rsistance at a banquet     
which ,wolsey gave to some of his       
official acquaintances in #aeji1 was a  
young porpoise1 which had cost eight    

shillings2 it was on the same occasion  
that ,his ,eminence partook of          
strawberries and cream1 perhaps2 he is  
reported to have been the person who    
made that pleasant combination          
fashionable4 ,the grampus1 or sea-wolf1 
was another article of food which bears 
testimony to the coarse palate of the   
early ,englishman1 and at the same time 
may afford a clue to the partiality for 
disguising condiments and spices4 ,but  
it appears from an entry in his ,privy  
,purse ,expenses1 under ,september #h1  
#adih1 that ,henry the ,seventh thought 
a porpoise a valuable commodity and a   
fit dish for an ambassador1 for on that 
date twenty-one shillings were paid to  
,cardinal ,morton's servant1 who had    
procured one for some envoy then in     
,london1 perhaps the ,french            
representative1 who is the recipient of 
a complimentary gratuity of #di #ajs4 on
 ,april #ab1 #adii1 at his departure    
from ,england4  ,in the fifteenth       
century the existing stock of fish for  

culinary purposes received1 if we may   
trust the vocabularies1 a few           
accessions2 as1 for instance1 the bream1
 the skate1 the flounder1 and the bake4 
,in ,piers of ,fulham 7#adth century71  
we hear of the good store of fat eels   
imported into ,england from the ,low    
,countries1 and to be had cheap by      
anyone who watched the tides2 but the   
author reprehends the growing luxury of 
using the livers of young fish before   
they were large enough to be brought to 
the table4  ,the most comprehensive     
catalogue of fish brought to table in   
the time of ,charles ,i4 is in a        
pamphlet of #afdd1 inserted among my    
,fugitive ,tracts1 #ahge2 and includes  
the oyster1 which used to be eaten at   
breakfast with wine1 the crab1 lobster1 
sturgeon1 salmon1 ling1 flounder1       
plaice1 whiting1 sprat1 herring1 pike1  
bream1 roach1 dace1 and eel4 ,the writer
 states that the sprat and herring were 
used in ,lent4 ,the sound of the        
stock-fish1 boiled in wort or thin ale  

till they were tender1 then laid on a   
cloth and dried1 and finally cut into   
strips1 was thought a good receipt for  
book-glue4  ,an acquaintance is in      
possession of an old cookery-book which 
exhibits the gamut of the fish as it    
lies in the frying-pan1 reducing its    
supposed lament to musical notation4    
,here is an ingenious refinement and a  
delicate piece of irony1 which ,walton  
and ,cotton might have liked to         
forestall4  ,the #aeth century ,nominale
 enriches the catalogue of dishes then  
in vogue4 ,it specifies almond-milk1    
rice1 gruel1 fish-broth or soup1 a sort 
of fricassee of fowl1 collops1 a pie1 a 
pasty1 a tart1 a tartlet1 a charlet     
7minced pork71 apple-juice1 a dish      
called jussell made of eggs and grated  
bread with seasoning of sage and        
saffron1 and the three generic heads of 
sod or boiled1 roast1 and fried meats4  
,in addition to the fish-soup1 they had 
wine-soup1 water-soup1 ale-soup2 and the
 flawn is reinforced by the froise4     

,instead of one ,latin equivalent for a 
pudding1 it is of moment to record that 
there are now three3 nor should we      
overlook the rasher and the sausage4 ,it
 is the earliest place where we get some
 of our familiar articles of diet--beef1
 mutton1 pork1 veal--under their modern 
names2 and about the same time such     
terms present themselves as a broth1 a  
browis1 a pottage1 a mess4  ,of the     
dishes which have been specified1 the   
froise corresponded to an omelette au   
lard of modern ,french cookery1 having  
strips of bacon in it4 ,the tansy was an
 omelette of another description1 made  
chiefly with eggs and chopped herbs4 ,as
 the former was a common dish in the    
monasteries1 it is not improbable that  
it was one grateful to the palate4 ,in  
,lydgate's ,story of ,thebes1 a sort of 
sequel to the ,canterbury ,tales1 the   
pilgrims invite the poet to join the    
supper-table1 where there were these    
tasty omelettes3 moile1 made of marrow  
and grated bread1 and haggis1 which is  

supposed to be identical with the       
,scottish dish so called4 ,lydgate1 who 
belonged to the monastery of ,bury ,st4 
,edmunds1 doubtless set on the table at 
,canterbury some of the dainties with   
which he was familiar at home2 and this 
practice1 which runs through all        
romantic and imaginative literature1    
constitutes1 in our appreciation1 its   
principal worth4 ,we love and cherish it
 for its very sins against chronological
 and topographical fitness--its contempt
 of all unities4 ,men transferred local 
circumstances and a local colouring to  
their pictures of distant countries and 
manners4 ,they argued the unknown from  
what they saw under their own eyes4     
,they portrayed to us what1 so far as   
the scenes and characters of their story
 went1 was undeceivingly false1 but what
 on the contrary1 had it not been so1   
would never have been unveiled          
respecting themselves and their time4   
,the expenditure on festive occasions   
seems1 from some of the entries in the  

,northumberland ,household ,book1 to    
present a strong contrast to the        
ordinary dietary allowed to the members 
of a noble and wealthy household1       
especially on fish days1 in the earlier 
,tudor era 7#aeab74 ,the noontide       
breakfast provided for the ,percy       
establishment was of a very modest      
character3 my lord and my lady had1 for 
example1 a loaf of bread1 two manchets  
7loaves of finer bread71 a quart of beer
 and one of wine1 two pieces of salt    
fish1 and six baked herrings or a dish  
of sprats4 ,my lord ,percy and ,master  
,thomas ,percy had half a loaf of       
household bread1 a manchet1 a pottle of 
beer1 a dish of butter1 a piece of salt 
fish1 and a dish of sprats or three     
white herrings2 and the nursery         
breakfast for my lady ,margaret and     
,master ,ingram ,percy was much the     
same4 ,but on flesh days my lord and    
lady fared better1 for they had a loaf  
of bread1 two manchets1 a quart of beer 
and the same of wine1 and half a chine  

of mutton or boiled beef2 while the     
nursery repast consisted of a manchet1 a
 quart of beer1 and three boiled mutton 
breasts2 and so on3 whence it is        
deducible that in the ,percy family1    
perhaps in all other great houses1 the  
members and the ladies and gentlemen in 
waiting partook of their earliest meal  
apart in their respective chambers1 and 
met only at six to dine or sup4  ,the   
beer1 which was an invariable part of   
the menu1 was perhaps brewed from hops  
which1 according to ,harrison elsewhere 
quoted1 were1 after a long              
discontinuance1 again coming into use   
about this time4 ,but it would be a     
light-bodied drink which was allotted to
 the consumption at all events of       
,masters ,thomas and ,ingram ,percy1 and
 even of my ,lady ,margaret4 ,it is     
clearly not irrelevant to my object to  
correct the general impression that the 
great families continued throughout the 
year to support the strain which the    
system of keeping open house must have  

involved4 ,for1 as ,warner has stated1  
there were intervals during which the   
aristocracy permitted themselves to     
unbend1 and shook off the trammels      
imposed on them by their social rank and
 responsibility4 ,this was known as     
keeping secret house1 or1 in other      
words1 my lord became for a season      
incognito1 and retired to one of his    
remoter properties for relaxation and   
repose4 ,our kings in some measure did  
the same2 for they held their revels    
only1 as a rule1 at stated times and    
places4 ,william ,i4 is said to have    
kept his ,easter at ,winchester1 his    
,whitsuntide at ,westminster1 and his   
,christmas at ,gloucester4 ,even these  
antique grandees had to work on some    
plan4 ,it could not be all mirth and    
jollity4  ,a recital of some of the     
articles on sale in a baker's or        
confectioner's shop in #aefc1 occurs in 
,newbery's ,dives ,pragmaticus3 simnels1
 buns1 cakes1 biscuits1 comfits1        
caraways1 and cracknels3 and this is the

 first occurrence of the bun that ,i    
have hitherto been able to detect4 ,the 
same tract supplies us with a few other 
items germane to my subject3 figs1      
almonds1 long pepper1 dates1 prunes1 and
 nutmegs4 ,it is curious to watch how by
 degrees the kitchen department was     
furnished with articles which nowadays  
are viewed as the commonest necessaries 
of life4  ,in the #agth century the     
increased communication with the        
,continent made us by degrees larger    
partakers of the discoveries of foreign 
cooks4 ,noblemen and gentlemen          
travelling abroad brought back with them
 receipts for making the dishes which   
they had tasted in the course of their  
tours4 ,in the ,compleat ,cook1 #afee   
and #affb1 the beneficial operation of  
actual experience of this kind1 and of  
the introduction of such books as the   
,receipts for ,dutch ,victual and       
,epulario1 or the ,italian ,banquet1 to 
,english readers and students1 is       
manifest enough2 for in the latter      

volume we get such entries as these3 ,to
 make a ,portugal dish2 ,to make a      
,virginia dish2 ,a ,persian dish2 ,a    
,spanish olio2 and then there are       
receipts ,to make a ,posset the ,earl of
 ,arundel's way2 ,to make the ,lady     
,abergavenny's ,cheese2 ,the ,jacobin's 
,pottage2 ,to make ,mrs4 ,leeds'        
,cheesecakes2 ,the ,lord ,conway ,his   
,lordship's receipt for the making of   
,amber ,puddings2 ,the ,countess of     
,rutland's receipt of making the ,rare  
,banbury ,cake1 which was so much       
praised as her daughter's 7the ,right   
,honourable ,lady ,chaworth7 ,pudding1  
and ,to make ,poor ,knights--the last a 
medley in which bread1 cream1 and eggs  
were the leading materials4  ,warner1   
however1 in the ,additional ,notes and  
,observations to his ,antiquitates      
,culinariae1 #agia1 expresses himself   
adversely to the foreign systems of     
cookery from an ,english point of view4 
,notwithstanding1 he remarks1 the       
partiality of our countrymen to ,french 

cookery1 yet that mode of disguising    
meat in this kingdom 7except perhaps in 
the hottest part of the hottest season  
of the year7 is an absurdity4 ,it is    
here the art of spoiling good meat4 ,the
 same art1 indeed1 in the ,south of     
,france2 where the climate is much      
warmer1 and the flesh of the animal lean
 and insipid1 is highly valuable2 it is 
the art of making bad meat eatable4 ,at 
the same time1 he acknowledges the      
superior thrift and intelligence of the 
,french cooks1 and instances the frog   
and the horse4 ,the frog is considered  
in this country as a disgusting animal1 
altogether unfit for the purposes of the
 kitchen2 whereas1 by the efforts of    
,french cookery1 the thighs of this     
little creature are converted into a    
delicate and estimable dish4 ,so sings1 
too 7save the mark671 our ,charles      
,lamb1 so far back as #ahbb1 after his  
visit to ,paris4 ,it seems that in      
,elizabeth's reign a powdered1 or       
pickled horse was considered a suitable 

dish by a ,french general entertaining  
at dinner some ,english officers4  ,it  
is difficult to avoid an impression that
 ,warner has some reason1 when he       
suggests that the immoderate use of     
condiments was brought to us by the     
dwellers under a higher temperature1 and
 was not really demanded in such a      
climate as that of ,england1 where meat 
can be kept sweet in ordinary seasons1  
much longer even than in ,france or in  
,italy4 ,but let us bear in mind1 too1  
how different from our own the old      
,english cuisine was1 and how many      
strange beasts calling for lubricants it
 comprehended within its range4  ,an    
edifying insight into the old ,scottish 
cuisine among people of the better sort 
is afforded by ,fynes ,morisoh1 in his  
description of a stay at a knight's     
house in ,north ,britain in #aeih4      
,myself1 he says1 was at a knight's     
house1 who had many servants to attend  
him1 that brought in his meat with their
 heads covered with blue caps1 the table

 being more than half furnished with    
great platters of porridge1 each having 
a little piece of sodden meat2 and when 
the tables were served1 the servants did
 sit down with us2 but the upper mess1  
instead of porridge1 had a pullet with  
some prunes in the broth4 ,and ,i       
observed no art of cookery1 or furniture
 of household stuff1 but rather rude    
neglect of both1 though myself and my   
companion1 sent by the ,governor of     
,berwick upon bordering affairs1 were   
entertained in the best manner4 ,the    
,scots 444 vulgarly eat hearth-cakes of 
oats1 but in cities have also wheaten   
bread1 which1 for the most part1 was    
bought by courtiers1 gentlemen1 and the 
best sort of citizens4 ,when ,i lived at
 ,berwick1 the ,scots weekly upon the   
market day obtained leave in writing of 
the governor to buy peas and beans1     
whereof1 as also of wheat1 their        
merchants to this day 7#afag7 send great
 quantities from ,london into ,scotland4
 ,they drink pure wine1 not with sugar1 

as the ,english1 yet at feasts they put 
comfits in the wine1 after the ,french  
manner3 but they had not our vintners'  
fraud to mix their wines4  ,he proceeds 
to say that he noticed no regular inns1 
with signs hanging out1 but that private
 householders would entertain passengers
 on entreaty1 or where acquaintance was 
claimed4 ,the last statement is         
interestingly corroborated by the       
account which ,taylor the ,water-,poet  
printed in #afah of his journey to      
,scotland1 and which he termed his      
,penniless ,pilgrimage or ,moneyless    
,perambulation1 in the course of which  
he purports to have depended entirely on
 private hospitality4  ,a friend says3  
,the ,scotch were long very poor4 ,only 
their fish1 oatmeal1 and whiskey kept   
them alive4 ,fish was very cheap4 ,this 
remark sounds the key-note of a great   
,english want--cheaper fish4 ,of meat we
 already eat enough1 or too much2 but of
 fish we might eat more1 if it could be 
brought at a low price to our doors4 ,it

 is a noteworthy collateral fact that in
 the ,lord ,mayor of ,london's ,pageant 
of #aeij there is a representation of   
the double advantage which would accrue 
if the unemployed poor were engaged to  
facilitate and cheapen the supply of    
fish to the ,city2 and here we are1     
three centuries forward1 with the want  
still very imperfectly answered4        
,besides the bread and oatmeal above    
named1 the bannock played its part4 ,the
 ,land o' ,cakes was more than a trim   
and pretty phrase3 there was in it a    
deep eloquence2 it marked a wide        
national demand and supply4  ,the ,penny
 ,magazine for #ahdb has a good and     
suggestive paper on ,feasts and         
,entertainments1 with extracts from some
 of the early dramatists and a woodcut  
of a new ,french cook1 to devise fine   
kickshaws and toys4 ,one curious point  
is brought out here in the phrase boiled
 jiggets of mutton1 which shews that the
 ,french gigot for a leg of mutton was  
formerly in use here4 ,like many other  

,gallicisms1 it lingered in ,scotland   
down to our own time4  ,the cut of the  
,french cook above mentioned is a modern
 composition2 and indeed some of the    
excerpts from ,ben ,jonson and other    
writers are of an extravagant and       
hyperbolical cast1--better calculated to
 amuse an audience than to instruct the 
student4  ,mr4 ,lucas remarks3 ,it is   
probable that we are more dependent upon
 animal food than we used to be4 ,in    
their early days1 the present generation
 of dalesmen fed almost exclusively upon
 oatmeal2 either as                     
'hasty-pudding1'--that is1 ,scotch      
oatmeal which had been ground over      
again1 so as to be nearly as fine as    
flour2444 or 'lumpy1'--that is1 boiled  
quickly and not thoroughly stirred2 or  
else in one of the three kinds of cake  
which they call 'fermented1' viz41      
'riddle cake1' 'held-on cake1' or       
'turn-down cake1' which is made from    
oatcake batter poured on the 'bak'      
ston'' from the ladle1 and then spread  

with the back of the ladle4 ,it does not
 rise like an oatcake4 ,or of a fourth  
kind called 'clap cake4' ,they also made
 'tiffany cakes' of wheaten flour1 which
 was separated from the bran by being   
worked through a hair-sieve tiffany1 or 
temse3--south of ,england ,tammy1--with 
a brush called the ,brush shank4        
,,royal ,,feasts ,,and ,,savage ,,pomp4 
,in ,rose's ,school of ,instructions for
 the ,officers of the ,mouth1 #afhb1 the
 staff of a great ,french establishment 
is described as a ,master of the        
,household1 a ,master ,carver1 a ,master
 ,butler1 a ,master ,confectioner1 a    
,master ,cook1 and a ,master ,pastryman4
 ,the author1 who was himself one of the
 cooks in our royal kitchen1 tells ,sir 
,stephen ,fox1 to whom he dedicates his 
book1 that he had entered on it after he
 had completed one of a very different  
nature3 ,the ,theatre of the ,world1 or 
a ,prospect of ,human ,misery4  ,at the 
time that the ,school of ,instructions  
was written1 the ,french and ourselves  

had both progressed very greatly in the 
,art of ,cookery and in the development 
of the menu4 ,dela,hay ,street1         
,westminster1 near ,bird-,cage ,walk1   
suggests a time when a hedge ran along  
the western side of it towards the      
,park1 in lieu of brick or stone walls2 
but the fact is that we have here a     
curious association with the office1    
just quoted from ,rose1 of ,master      
,confectioner4 ,for of the plot of      
ground on which the street1 or at any   
rate a portion of it stands1 the old    
proprieter was ,peter ,dela,haye1 master
 confectioner of ,charles ,,ii4 at the  
very period of the publication of       
,rose's book4 ,his name occurs in the   
title-deeds of one of the houses on the 
,park side1 which since his day has had 
only five owners1 and has been1 since   
#ahdj1 the freehold of an old and valued
 friend of the present writer4  ,it may 
be worth pointing out1 that the         
,confectionery and ,pastry were two     
distinct departments1 each with its     

superintendent and staff4 ,the fondness 
for confections had spread from         
,italy--which itself in turn borrowed   
the taste from the ,east--to ,france and
 ,england2 and1 as we perceive from the 
descriptions furnished in books1 these  
were often of a very elaborate and      
costly character4  ,the volume is of the
 less interest for us1 as it is a       
translation from the ,french1 and       
consequently does not throw a direct    
light on our own kitchens at this       
period4 ,but of course collaterally it  
presents many features of likeness and  
analogy1 and may be compared with       
,braithwaite's earlier view to which ,i 
shall presently advert4  ,the following 
anecdote is given in the ,epistle to    
,fox3 ,many do believe the ,french way  
of working is cheapest2 but let these   
examine this book1 and then they may see
 7for their satisfaction7 which is the  
best husbandry1 to extract gold out of  
herbs1 or to make a pottage of a stone1 
by the example of two soldiers1 who in  

their quarters were minded to have a    
pottage2 the first of them coming into a
 house and asking for all things        
necessary to the making of one1 was as  
soon told that he could have none of    
these things there1 whereupon he went   
away1 and the other coming in with a    
stone in his knap-sack1 asked only for a
 ,pot to boil his stone in1 that he     
might make a dish of broth of it for his
 supper1 which was quickly granted him2 
and when the stone had boiled a little  
while1 then he asked for a small bit of 
beef1 then for a piece of mutton1 and so
 for veal1 bacon1 etc41 till by little  
and little he got all things requisite1 
and he made an excellent pottage of his 
stone1 at as cheap a rate 7it may be7 as
 the cook extracted ,gold from ,herbs4  
,the kitchen-staff of a noble           
establishment in the first quarter of   
the seventeenth century we glean from   
,braithwaite's ,rules and ,orders for   
the ,government of the ,house of an     
,earl1 which1 if the ,m4,l4 for whom the

 piece was composed was his future wife1
 ,mistress ,lawson1 cannot have seen the
 light later than #afag1 in which year  
they were married4 ,he specifies--7#a7 a
 yeoman and groom for the cellar2 7#b7 a
 yeoman and groom for the pantry2 7#c7 a
 yeoman and groom for the buttery2      
7#c;a7 a yeoman for the ewery2 7#d7 a   
yeoman purveyor2 7#e7 a master-cook1    
under-cooks1 and three pastry-men2 7#f7 
a yeoman and groom in the scullery1 one 
to be in the larder and slaughter-house2
 7#g7 an achator or buyer2 7#h7 three   
conducts query1 errand-boys and three   
kitchen-boys4  ,the writer also admits  
us to a rather fuller acquaintance with 
the mode in which the marketing was     
done4 ,he says that the officers1 among 
other matters1 must be able to judge1   
not only of the prices1 but also of the 
goodness of all kinds of corn1 cattle1  
and household provisions2 and the better
 to enable themselves thereto1 are      
oftentimes to ride to fairs and great   
markets1 and there to have conference   

with graziers and purveyors4 ,the higher
 officers were to see that the master   
was not deceived by purveyors and       
buyers1 and that other men's cattle did 
not feed on my lord's pastures2 they    
were to take care that the clerk of the 
kitchen kept his day-book in that       
perfect and good order1 that at the end 
of every week or month it be pied out1  
and that a true docket of all kinds of  
provisions be set down4 ,they were to   
see that the powdered and salted meats  
in the larder were properly kept2 and   
vigilant supervision was to be exercised
 over the cellar1 buttery1 and other    
departments1 even to the prevention of  
paring the tallow lights4  ,braithwaite 
dedicates a section to each officer2 but
 ,i have only space to transcribe1 by   
way of sample1 the opening portion of   
his account of ,the ,officer of the     
,kitchen3 ,the ,master-,cook should be a
 man of years2 well-experienced1 whereby
 the younger cooks will be drawn the    
better to obey his directions4 ,in      

ancient times noblemen contented        
themselves to be served with such as had
 been bred in their own houses1 but of  
late times none could please some but   
,italians and ,frenchmen1 or at best    
brought up in the ,court1 or under      
,london cooks3 nor would the old manner 
of baking1 boiling1 and roasting please 
them1 but the boiled meats must be after
 the ,french fashion1 the dishes        
garnished about with sugar and preserved
 plums1 the meat covered over with      
orangeade1 preserved lemons1 and with   
divers other preserved and conserved    
stuff fetched from the confectioner's3  
more lemons and sugar spent in boiling  
fish to serve at one meal than might    
well serve the whole expense of the     
house in a day4 ,he goes on to describe 
and ridicule the new fashion of placing 
arms and crests on the dishes4 ,it seems
 that all the refuse was the perquisite 
of the cook and his subordinates in a   
regulated proportion1 and the same in   
the bakery and other branches2 but1 as  

may be supposed1 in these matters gross 
abuses were committed4  ,in the ,leisure
 ,hour for #ahhd was printed a series of
 papers on ,english ,homes in the ,olden
 ,times4 ,the eleventh deals with       
service and wages1 and is noticed here  
because it affords a recital of the     
orders made for his household by ,john  
,harington the elder in #aeff1 and      
renewed by ,john ,harington the younger1
 his son and ,high ,sheriff of          
,somersetshire1 in #aeib4  ,this code of
 domestic discipline for an ,elizabethan
 establishment comprises the observance 
of decorum and duty at table1 and is at 
least as valuable and curious as those  
metrical canons and precepts which form 
the volume 7,babees' ,book7 edited for  
the ,early ,english ,text ,society1 etc4
  ,there is rather too general a dislike
 on the part of antiquaries to take     
cognisance of matter inserted in popular
 periodicals upon subjects of an        
archaeological character2 but of course 
the loose and flimsy treatment which    

this class of topics as a rule receives 
in the light literature of the day makes
 it perilous to use information so      
forthcoming in evidence or quotation4   
,articles must be rendered palatable to 
the general reader1 and thus become     
worthless for all readers alike4  ,most 
of the early descriptions and handbooks 
of instruction turn1 naturally enough1  
on the demands and enjoyments of the    
great4 ,there is in the treatise of     
,walter de ,bibblesworth 7#adth century7
 a very interesting and edifying account
 of the arrangement of courses for some 
important banquet4 ,the boar's head     
holds the place of honour in the list1  
and venison follows1 and various dishes 
of roast4 ,among the birds to be served 
up we see cranes1 peacocks1 swans1 and  
wild geese2 and of the smaller          
varieties1 fieldfares1 plovers1 and     
larks4 ,there were wines2 but the writer
 only particularises them as white and  
red4 ,the haunch of venison was then an 
ordinary dish1 as well as kid4 ,they    

seem to have sometimes roasted and      
sometimes boiled them4 ,not only the    
pheasant and partridge appear1 but the  
quail1--which is at present scarcer in  
this country1 though so plentiful       
abroad1--the duck1 and the mallard4  ,in
 connection with venison1 it is worth   
while to draw attention to a passage in 
the ,privy ,purse ,expenses of ,henry   
,,vii where1 under date of ,august #h1  
#aeje1 a woman receives #cs4 d4 for     
clarifying deer suet for the ,king4     
,this was not for culinary but for      
medicinal purposes1 as it was then1 and 
much later1 employed as an ointment4    
,both ,william ,i4 and his son the ,red 
,king maintained1 as ,warner shews us1 a
 splendid table2 and we have particulars
 of the princely scale on which an      
,abbot of ,canterbury celebrated his    
installation in #acji4 ,the archbishops 
of those times1 if they exercised       
inordinate authority1 at any rate       
dispensed in a magnificent manner among 
the poor and infirm a large portion of  

their revenues4 ,they stood in the place
 of corporations and ,poor ,law         
,guardians4 ,their very vices were not  
without a certain fascinating grandeur2 
and the pleasures of the table in which 
our ,plantagenet rulers outstripped even
 their precursors1 the earlier          
sovereigns of that line1 were enhanced  
and multiplied by the ,crusades1 by the 
commencing spirit of discovery1 and by  
the foreign intermarriages1 which became
 so frequent4  ,a far more thorough     
conquest than that which the day of     
,hastings signalised was accomplished by
 an army of a more pacific kind1 which  
crossed the ,channel piecemeal1 bringing
 in their hands1 not bows and swords1   
but new dishes and new wines4 ,these    
invaders of our soil were doubtless     
welcomed as benefactors by the proud    
nobles of the ,courts of ,edward ,,ii4  
and ,richard ,,ii41 as well as by       
,royalty itself2 and the descriptions   
which have been preserved of the        
banquets held on special occasions in   

the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries1 
and even of the ordinary style of living
 of some1 make our ,city feasts of      
to-day shrink into insignificance4 ,but 
we must always remember that the        
extravagant luxury and hospitality of   
the old time were germane and proper to 
it1 component parts of the social       
framework4  ,it is to be remarked that  
some of the most disturbed and          
disastrous epochs in our annals are     
those to which we have to go for records
 of the greatest exploits in gastronomy 
and lavish expenditure of public money  
on comparatively unprofitable objects4  
,during the period from the accession of
 ,rufus to the death of ,henry ,,iii41  
and again under the rule of ,richard    
,,ii41 the taste for magnificent parade 
and sumptuous entertainments almost     
reached its climax4 ,the notion of      
improving the condition of the poor had 
not yet dawned on the mind of the       
governing class2 to make the artizan and
 the operative self-supporting and      

self-respectful was a movement not      
merely unformulated1 but a conception   
beyond the parturient faculty of a      
member of the ,jacquerie4 ,the king1    
prince1 bishop1 noble1 of unawakened    
,england met their constituents at      
dinner in a fashion once or twice in a  
lifetime1 and when the guests below the 
salt had seen the ways of greatness1    
they departed to fulfil their several   
callings4 ,these were political         
demonstrations with a clear and 7for the
 age7 not irrational object2 but for the
 modern public dinner1 over which ,i    
should be happy to preach the funeral   
sermon1 there is not often this or any  
other plea4  ,the redistribution of     
wealth and its diversion into more      
fruitful channels has already done      
something for the people2 and in the    
future that lies before some of us they 
will do vastly more4 ,all ,augaea will  
be flushed out4  ,in some of these      
superb feasts1 such as that at the      
marriage of ,henry ,,iv4 in #adjc1 there

 were two series of courses1 three of   
meat1 and three of fish and sweets2 in  
which we see our present fashion to a   
certain extent reversed4 ,but at the    
coronation of ,henry ,v4 in #adba1 only 
three courses were served1 and those    
mixed4 ,the taste for what were termed  
subtleties1 had come in1 and among the  
dishes at this latter entertainment     
occur1 ,a pelican sitting on her nest   
with her young1 and an image of ,st4    
,catherine holding a book and disputing 
with the doctors4 ,these vagaries became
 so common1 that few dinners of         
importance were accounted complete      
without one or more4  ,one of the minor 
subtleties was a peacock in full        
panoply4 ,the bird was first skinned1   
and the feathers1 tail1 head and neck   
having been laid on a table1 and        
sprinkled with cummin1 the body was     
roasted1 glazed with raw egg-yolk1 and  
after being left to cool1 was sewn back 
again into the skin and so brought to   
table as the last course4 ,in #adff1 at 

the enthronement of ,archbishop ,nevile1
 no fewer than #ajd peacocks were       
dressed4  ,the most extraordinary       
display of fish at table on a single    
occasion took place at the enthronement 
feast of ,archbishop ,warham in #aejd2  
it occurred on a fast day2 and          
consequently no meat1 poultry or game   
was included in the menu1 but ample     
compensation was found in the lavish    
assortment of confectionery1 spices1    
beer and wine4 ,of wine of various      
vintages there were upwards of #ab      
pipes1 and of ale and beer1 thirty tuns1
 including four of ,london and six of   
,kentish ale4  ,the narratives which    
have descended to us of the prodigious  
banquets given on special occasions by  
our early kings1 prelates and nobles1   
are apt to inspire the general reader   
with an admiration of the splendid      
hospitality of bygone times4 ,but1 as ,i
 have already suggested1 these          
festivities were occasional and at long 
intervals1 and during the intervening   

space the great ones and the small ones 
of mediaeval and early ,england did not 
indulge in this riotous sort of living1 
but kept secret house1 as it was called1
 both after their own fashion4 ,the     
extremes of prodigality and squalor were
 more strongly marked among the poorer  
classes while this country was in a     
semi-barbarous condition1 and even the  
aristocracy by no means maintained the  
same domestic state throughout the year 
as their modern representatives4 ,there 
are not those ostentatious displays of  
wealth and generosity1 which used to    
signalise certain political events1 such
 as the coronation of a monarch or the  
enthronement of a primate2 the mode of  
living has grown more uniform and       
consistent1 since between the vilain and
 his lord has interposed himself the    
middle-class ,englishman1 with a hand   
held out to either4  ,a few may not     
spend so much1 but as a people we spend 
more on our table4 ,a good dinner to a  
shepherd or a porter was formerly more  

than a nine days' wonder2 it was like a 
beacon seen through a mist4 ,but now he 
is better fed1 clothed and housed than  
the bold baron1 whose serf he would have
 been in the good old days2 and the bold
 baron1 on his part1 no longer keeps    
secret house unless he chooses1 and     
observes1 if a more monotonous1 a more  
secure and comfortable tenor of life4   
,this change is of course due to a cause
 which lies very near the surface--to   
the gradual effacement of the deeply-cut
 separating lines between the orders of 
society1 and the stealthy uprise of the 
class1 which is fast gathering all power
 into its own hands4     ,,cookery      
,,books  ,,part #a4   ,the first attempt
 to illustrate this branch of the art   
must have been made by ,alexander       
,neckam in the twelfth century2 at least
 ,i am not aware of any older treatise  
in which the furniture and apparatus of 
a kitchen are set forth4  ,but it is    
needless to say that ,neckam merely     
dealt with a theme1 which had been      

familiar many centuries before his time1
 and compiled his treatise1 ,de         
,utensilibus1 as ,bishop ,alfric had his
 earlier ,colloquy1 with an educational1
 not a culinary1 object1 and with a view
 to facilitate the knowledge of ,latin  
among his scholars4 ,it is rather       
interesting to know that he was a native
 of ,st4 ,albans1 where he was born in  
#aaeg4 ,he died in #abag1 so that the   
composition of this work of his 7one of 
many7 may be referred to the close of   
the twelfth century4 ,its value is1 in a
 certain sense1 impaired by the almost  
complete absence of ,english terms2     
,latin and 7so called7 ,norman-,french  
being the languages almost exclusively  
employed in it4 ,but we have good reason
 indeed to be grateful for such a legacy
 in any shape1 and when we consider the 
tendency of ways of life to pass        
unchanged from one generation to        
another1 and when we think how many     
archaic and 7to our apprehension7 almost
 barbarous fashions and forms in        

domestic management lingered within     
living recollection1 it will not be     
hazarding much after all to presume that
 the particulars so casually supplied to
 us by ,neckam have an application alike
 before and after4  ,a student should   
also bear in mind that1 from the strong 
,anglo-,gallic complexion of our society
 and manners in early days1 the accounts
 collected by ,lacroix are largely      
applicable to this country1 and the same
 facilities for administering to the    
comfort and luxuries of the table1 which
 he furnishes as illustrative of the    
gradual outgrowth from the wood fire and
 the pot-au-feu among his own           
countrymen1 or certain classes of them1 
may be received as something like       
counterparts of what we possessed in    
,england at or about the same period4   
,we keep the phrase pot luck2 but1 for  
most of those who use it1 it has parted 
with all its meaning4 ,this said        
production of ,neckam of ,st4 ,albans   
purports to be a guide to young         

housekeepers4 ,it instructs them what   
they will require1 if they desire to see
 their establishment well-ordered2 but  
we soon perceive that the author has in 
view the arrangements indispensable for 
a family of high rank and pretensions2  
and it may be once for all observed that
 this kind of literature seldom proves  
of much service to us in an             
investigation of the state of the poor1 
until we come to the fifteenth or even  
sixteenth century1 when the artists of  
,germany and the ,low ,countries began  
to delineate those scenes in industrial 
and servile life1 which time and change 
have rendered so valuable4  ,where their
 superiors in rank regarded them as     
little more than mechanical instruments 
for carrying on the business of life1   
the poor have left behind them few      
records of their mode of sustenance and 
of the food which enabled them to follow
 their daily toil4 ,the anecdotes1      
whatever they may be worth1 of ,alfred  
and the burnt cakes1 and of ,tom        

,thumb's mamma and her ,christmas       
pudding1 made in a bowl1 of which the   
principal material was pork1 stand      
almost alone2 for we get1 wherever we   
look1 nothing but descriptions by       
learned and educated men of their equals
 or betters1 how they fed and what they 
ate--their houses1 their furniture1     
their weapons1 and their dress4 ,even in
 the passage of the old fabliau of the  
,king and the ,hermit the latter1       
instead of admitting us to a cottage    
interior1 has a servant to wait on him1 
brings out a tablecloth1 lights two     
candles1 and lays before his disguised  
guest venison and wine4 ,in most of our 
own romances1 and in the epics of       
antiquity1 we have to be satisfied with 
vague and splendid generalisations4 ,we 
do not learn much of the dishes which   
were on the tables1 how they were       
cooked1 and how ,greek3 oi polloi cooked
 theirs4  ,the ,liber1 or rather ,codex1
 ,princeps in the very long and         
extensive catalogue of works on ,english

 ,cookery1 is a vellum roll called the  
,form of ,cury1 and is supposed to have 
been written about the beginning of the 
fifteenth century by the master-cook of 
,richard ,,ii who reigned from #acgg to 
#acii1 and spent the public money in    
eating and drinking1 instead of wasting 
it1 as his grandfather had done1 in     
foreign wars4 ,this singular relic was  
once in the ,harleian collection1 but   
did not pass with the rest of the ,,mss4
 to the ,british ,museum2 it is now     
however1 ,additional ,,ms4 #ejaf1 having
 been presented to the ,library by ,mr4 
,gustavus ,brander4 ,it was edited by   
,dr4 ,pegge in #aghj1 and included by   
,warner in his ,antiquitates            
,culinariae1 #agia4 ,the ,roll comprises
 #aif receipts1 and commences with a    
sort of preamble and a ,table of        
,contents4 ,in the former it is worth   
noting that the enterprise was          
undertaken by the assent and avisement  
of masters of physic and of philosophy1 
that dwelled in his 7,richard ,,ii4's7  

court1 which illustrates the ancient    
alliance between medicine and cookery1  
which has not till lately been          
dissolved4 ,the directions were to      
enable a man to make common pottages and
 common meats for the household1 as they
 should be made1 craftily and           
wholesomely2 so that this body of       
cookery was not prepared exclusively for
 the use of the royal kitchen1 but for  
those who had not the taste or wish for 
what are termed1 in contra-distinction1 
in the next sentence1 curious pottages1 
and meats1 and subtleties4 ,it is to be 
conjectured that copies of such a ,,ms4 
were multiplied1 and from time to time  
reproduced with suitable changes2 but   
with the exception of two different1    
though nearly coeval1 collections1      
embracing #ca and #afb receipts or nyms1
 and also successively printed by ,pegge
 and ,warner1 there is no apparent trace
 of any systematic compilation of this  
nature at so remote a date4  ,the ,form 
of ,cury was in the #bh ,eliz41 in the  

possession of the ,stafford family1 and 
was in that year presented to the ,queen
 by ,edward1 ,lord ,stafford1 as is to  
be gathered from a ,latin memorandum at 
the end1 in his lordship's hand1        
preserved by ,pegge and ,warner in their
 editions4 ,the fellowship between the  
arts of healing and cooking is brought  
to our recollection by a leonine verse  
at the end of one of the shorter        
separate collections above described3-- 
,explicit de ,coquina   ,quae est optima
 ,medicina4  ,the ,form of ,cury will   
amply remunerate a study4 ,it presents  
the earliest mention1 so far as ,i can  
discern1 of olive oil1 cloves1 mace1 and
 gourds4 ,in the receipts for making    
,aigredouce and ,bardolf1 sugar1 that   
indispensable feature in the cuisine1   
makes its appearance2 but it does so1 ,i
 should add1 in such a way as to lead to
 the belief that the use of sugar was at
 this time becoming more general4 ,the  
difficulty1 at first1 seems to have been
 in refining it4 ,we encounter here1    

too1 onions under the name borrowed from
 the ,french instead of the             
,anglo-,saxon form ynne leac2 and the   
prescriptions for making messes of      
almonds1 pork1 peas1 and beans are      
numerous4 ,there is ,saracen sauce1     
moreover1 possibly as old as the        
,crusades1 and pig with sage stuffing   
7from which it was but one step to      
duck74 ,more than one species of        
galantine was already known2 and ,i     
observe the distinction1 in one of the  
smaller collections printed by ,warner1 
between the tartlet formed of meat and  
the tartlet de fritures1 of which the   
latter approaches more nearly our       
notion4 ,the imperfect comprehension of 
harmonies1 which is illustrated by the  
prehistoric bag-pudding of ,king        
,arthur1 still continued in the         
unnatural union of flesh with sweets4   
,it is now confined to the cottage1     
whence ,arthur may have himself         
introduced it at ,court and to the      
,knights of the ,round ,table4  ,in this

 authority1 several of the dishes were  
to be cooked in white grease1 which     
,warner interprets into lard2 others    
demanded olive oil2 but there is no     
allusion to butter4 ,among the receipts 
are some for dishes in gravy2 rabbits   
and chickens were to be treated         
similarly2 and the gravy appears to have
 consisted merely of the broth in which 
they were boiled1 and which was         
flavoured with pounded almonds1 powdered
 ginger1 and sugar4  ,the ,liber ,cure  
,cocorum1 which is apparently extant    
only in a fifteenth century ,,ms41 is a 
metrical treatise1 instructing its      
readers how to prepare certain dishes1  
condiments and accessories2 and         
presents1 for the most part1 a          
repetition of what has already occurred 
in earlier and more comprehensive       
undertakings4 ,it is a curious aid to   
our knowledge of the manner in which the
 table of the well-to-do ,englishman was
 furnished in the time of ,henry ,,vi41 
and it is so far special1 that it deals 

with the subject more from a            
middle-class point of view than the     
,regulations for the ,royal ,household1 
and other similar compilations1 which ,i
 have to bring under notice4 ,the names1
 as usual1 are often misleading1 as in  
blanc manger1 which is very different   
from our blanc-mange2 and the receipt   
for goose in a hog pot leaves one in    
doubt as to its adaptability to the     
modern palate4 ,the poetical ambition of
 the author has proved a source of      
embarrassment here and there2 and in the
 receipt for a service on a fish-day the
 practitioner is prayed within four     
lines to cover his white herring for    
,god's sake1 and lay mustard over his   
red for ,god's love1 because sake and   
love rhyme with take and above4  ,the   
next collection of receipts1 which      
exists in a complete and homogeneous    
shape1 is the ,noble ,book of ,cookery1 
of which an early ,,ms4 copy at ,holkham
 was edited in #ahhb by ,mrs4 ,napier1  
but which had already been printed by   

,pynson in #aejj1 and subsequently by   
his successor1 ,john ,byddell4 ,this    
interesting and important volume        
commences with a series of descriptions 
of certain royal and noble              
entertainments given on various         
occasions from the time of ,henry ,,iv4 
to that of ,edward ,,iv41 and then      
proceeds to furnish a series of         
directions for the cook of a king's or  
prince's household2 for1 although both  
at the outset and the conclusion we are 
told that these dishes were calculated  
for all estates1 it is abundantly       
obvious that they were such as never    
then1 or very long subsequently1 reached
 much lower than the court or the       
aristocracy4 ,there is a less complete  
copy here of the feast at the           
enthronement of ,archbishop ,nevile4 ,i 
regret that neither of the old printed  
copies is at present accessible4 ,that  
of #aejj was formerly in the library at 
,bulstrode1 and ,i was given by the late
 ,mr4 ,bradshaw to understand that the  

same copy 7no other being known7 is     
probably at ,longleat4 ,by referring to 
,herbert's ,typographical ,antiquities1 
anyone may see that1 if his account 7so 
far as it goes7 is to be trusted1 the   
printed copy varies from the ,holkham   
,,ms4 in many verbal particulars1 and   
gives the date of ,nevile's ,feast as   
#adfe4  ,the compilation usually known  
as the ,book of ,st4 ,albans1 #adhf1 is1
 perhaps1 next to the ,noble ,book of   
,cookery1 the oldest receptacle for     
information on the subject in hand4 ,the
 former1 however1 deals with cookery    
only in an incidental and special way4  
,like ,arnold's ,chronicle1 the ,st4    
,albans volume is a miscellany          
comprehending nearly all the matters    
that were apt to interest the few       
educated persons who were qualified to  
peruse its pages2 and amid a variety of 
allied topics we come here across a     
catalogue of terms used in speaking of  
certain dishes of that day4 ,the        
reference is to the prevailing methods  

of dressing and carving4 ,a deer was    
said to be broken1 a cony unlaced1 a    
pheasant1 partridge1 or quail winged1 a 
pigeon or a woodcock thighed1 a plover  
minced1 a mallard unbraced4 ,they spoke 
of a salmon or a gurnard as chined1 a   
sole as loined1 a haddock as sided1 an  
eel as trousoned1 a pike as splatted1   
and a trout as gobbeted4  ,it must1 ,i  
think1 be predicated of ,tusser's       
,husbandry1 of which the last edition   
published in the writer's lifetime is   
that of #aehj1 that it seems rather to  
reproduce precepts which occur elsewhere
 than to supply the reader with the     
fruits of his own direct observation4   
,but there are certain points in it     
which are curious and original4 ,he     
tells the ploughman that1 after         
confession on ,shrove ,tuesday1 he may  
go and thresh the fat hen1 and if he is 
blindfold1 kill her1 and then dine on   
fritters and pancakes4 ,at other times1 
seed-cakes1 wafers1 and other light     
confections4  ,it appears to have been  

usual for the farmer at that date to    
allow his hinds roast meat twice a week1
 on ,sundays and on ,thursday nights2   
but perhaps this was a generous extreme1
 as ,tusser is unusually liberal in his 
ideas4  ,tobias ,venner1 a              
,somersetshire man1 brought out in #afbj
 his ,via ,recta ad ,vitam ,longam4 ,he 
was evidently a very intelligent person1
 and affords us the result of his       
professional experience and personal    
observation4 ,he considered two meals a 
day sufficient for all ordinary         
people1--breakfast at eleven and supper 
at six 7as at the universities72 but he 
thought that children and the aged or   
infirm could not be tied by any rule4   
,he condemns bull's beef as rank1       
unpleasant1 and indigestible1 and holds 
it best for the labourer2 which seems to
 indicate more than anything else the   
low state of knowledge in the grazier1  
when ,venner wrote3 but there is        
something beyond friendly counsel where 
our author dissuades the poor from      

eating partridges1 because they are     
calculated to promote asthma4           
,wherefore1 he ingenuously says1 when   
they shall chance to meet with a covey  
of young partridges1 they were much     
better to bestow them upon such1 for    
whom they are convenient6  ,salmon1     
turbot1 and sturgeon he also reckoned   
hard of digestion1 and injurious1 if    
taken to excess2 nor does he approve of 
herrings and sprats2 and anchovies he   
characterises as the meat of drunkards4 
,it is the first that we have heard of  
them4  ,he was not a bad judge of what  
was palatable1 and prescribes as an     
agreeable and wholesome meal a couple of
 poached eggs with a little salt and    
vinegar1 and a few corns of pepper1 some
 bread and butter1 and a draught of pure
 claret4 ,he gives a receipt--the       
earliest ,i have seen in print--for     
making metheglin or hydromel4 ,he does  
not object to furmety or junket1 or     
indeed to custards1 if they are eaten at
 the proper seasons1 and in the middle  

or at the end of meals4 ,but he dislikes
 mushrooms1 and advises you to wash out 
your mouth1 and rub your teeth and gums 
with a dry cloth1 after drinking milk4  
,the potato1 however1 he praises as     
nutritious and pleasant to the taste1   
yet1 as ,gerarde the herbalist also     
says1 flatulent4 ,venner refers to a    
mode of sopping them in wine as existing
 in his time4 ,they were sometimes      
roasted in the embers1 and there were   
other ways of dressing them4 ,john      
,forster1 of ,hanlop1 in ,bucks1 wrote a
 pamphlet in #affd to shew that the more
 extended cultivation of this root would
 be a great national benefit4  ,venner1 
who practised in the spring and autumn  
at ,bath as a physician1 had no relish  
for the poorer classes1 who did not fare
 well at the hands of their superiors in
 any sense in the excellent old days4   
,but he liked the ,quality1 in which he 
embraced the ,universities1 and he      
tenders them1 among other little hints1 
the information that green ginger was   

good for the memory1 and conserve of    
roses 7not the salad of roses           
immortalised by ,apuleius7 was a capital
 posset against bed-time4 ,a conserve of
 rosemary and sage1 says he1 to be often
 used by students1 especially mornings  
fasting1 doth greatly delight the brain4
  ,the military ascendency of ,spain did
 not fail to influence the culinary     
civilisation of those countries to which
 it temporarily extended its rule2 and  
in a ,venetian work entitled ,epulario1 
or the ,italian ,banquet1 printed in    
#aedi1 we recognise the ,spanish tone   
which had in the sixteenth century      
communicated itself to the cookery of   
the ,peninsula1 shewing that ,charles   
,v4 and his son carried at least one art
 with them as an indemnity for the havoc
 which they committed4  ,the nursery    
rhyme of ,sing a song of sixpence       
receives a singular and diverting       
illustration from the pages of this     
,epulario1 where occurs a receipt to    
make ,pies that the ,birds may be alive 

in them1 and fly out when it is cut up4 
,some of the other more salient beads   
relate to the mode of dressing sundry   
dishes in the ,roman and ,catalonian    
fashion1 and teach us how to seethe     
gourds1 as they did in ,spain1 and to   
make mustard after the manner of ,padua4
  ,i propose here to register certain   
contributions to our acquaintance with  
early culinary ideas and practices1     
which ,i have not specifically          
described3--  #a4 ,the ,book of         
,carving4 ,w4 de ,worde4 #dto1 #aejh1   
#aeac4 ,reprinted down to #afac4  #b4 ,a
 ,proper ,new ,book of ,cookery4 #abmo1 
#aedf4 ,often reprinted4 ,it is a       
recension of the ,book of ,cookery1     
#aejj4  #c4 ,the ,treasury of           
,commodious ,conceits and ,hidden       
,secrets4 ,by ,john ,partridge4 #abmo1  
#aehj1 #aehf2 and under the title of    
,treasury of ,hidden ,secrets1 #dto1    
#aeif1 #afjj1 #afcg1 #afec4  #d4 ,a     
,book of ,cookery4 ,gathered by ,a4,w4  
#abmo1 #aehd1 #aeia1 etc4  #e4 ,the     

,good ,housewife's ,jewel4 ,by ,thomas  
,dawson4 ,in two ,parts1 #abmo1 #aehe4  
,a copy of ,part #b of this date is in  
the ,british ,museum4  #f4 ,the ,good   
,housewife's ,treasury4 #ab mo1 #aehh4  
#g4 ,cookery for all manner of ,dutch   
,victual4 ,licensed in #aeij1 but not   
otherwise known4  #h4 ,the ,good        
,housewife's ,handmaid for the ,kitchen4
 #hvo1 #aeid4  #i4 ,the ,ladies'        
,practice2 or1 a plain and easy         
direction for ladies and gentlewomen4   
,by ,john ,murrell4 ,licensed in #afag4 
,printed in #afba1 and with additions in
 #afch1 #afda1 and #afej4  #aj4 ,a ,book
 of ,cookery4 ,by ,george ,crewe4       
,licensed in #afbc1 but not known4  #aa4
 ,a ,closet for ,ladies and             
,gentlewomen4 #abmo1 #afcj4  #ab4 ,the  
,ladies' ,cabinet ,opened4 ,by ,patrick1
 ,lord ,ruthven4 #dto1 #afci2 #hvo1     
#afee4  #ac4 ,a ,curious ,treasury of   
,twenty ,rare ,secrets4 ,published by   
,la ,fountaine1 an expert ,operator4    
#dto1 #afdi4  #ad4 ,a ,new ,dispensatory

 of ,fourty ,physical ,receipts4        
,published by ,salvatore ,winter of     
,naples1 an expert ,operator4 #dto1     
#afdi4 ,second edition1 enlarged3 same  
date4  ,the three last are rather in the
 class of miscellanies4  #ae4 ,health's 
,improvement2 or1 ,rules comprising the 
discovering the ,nature1 ,method1 and   
,manner of preparing all sorts of ,food 
used in this ,nation4 ,by ,thomas       
,muffet 7or ,moffat71 ,m4,d4 ,corrected 
and enlarged by ,christopher ,bennett1  
,m4,d4 #dto1 #afee4  #af4 ,the ,queen's 
,closet opened4 ,incomparable secrets in
 physick1 chirurgery1 ,preserving1      
,candying1 and ,cookery4444 ,transcribed
 from the true copies of her ,majesties 
own ,receipt ,books4 ,by ,w4,m41 one of 
her late ,servants4444 ,london1 #afee1  
#hvo4 ,the same1 corrected and revised1 
with many new and large ,additions4     
#hvo1 #afhc4  #ag4 ,the ,perfect ,cook3 
being the most exact directions for the 
making all kinds of pastes1 with the    
perfect way teaching how to raise1      

season1 and make all sorts of pies4444  
,as also the ,perfect ,english ,cook4444
 ,to which is added the way of dressing 
all manner of ,flesh4 ,by ,m4 ,marmette4
 ,london1 #afhf1 #abmo4  ,the writer of 
the ,french ,gardener1 of which ,i have 
had occasion to say a good deal in my   
small volume on that subject1 also      
produced1 ,les ,dlices de la ,campagne1 
which ,evelyn excused himself from      
translating because1 whatever experience
 he had in the garden1 he had none1 he  
says1 in the shambles2 and it was for   
those who affected such matters to get  
it done1 but not by him who did the     
,french ,cook ,footnote3 ,i have not    
seen this book1 nor is it under that    
title in the catalogue of the ,british  
,museum4 ,he seems to imply that the    
latter1 though an excellent work in its 
way1 had not only been marred in the    
translation1 but was not so practically 
advantageous to us as it might have     
been1 for want of skill in the          
kitchen--in other words1 an evil1 which 

still prevails1 was then appreciated by 
intelligent observers--the ,english cook
 did not understand her business1 and   
the ,english mistress1 as a rule1 was   
equally ignorant4  ,one of the          
engravings in the ,french ,gardener     
represents women rolling out paste1     
preparing vegetables1 and boiling       
conserves4  ,there is a rather quaint   
and attractive class of miscellaneous   
receipt-books1 not made so on account of
 any particular merit in their contents1
 but by reason of their association with
 some person of quality4 ,,ms4 ,sloane  
#acfg1 is a narrow octavo volume1 for   
instance1 containing ,my ,lady          
,rennelagh's choice ,receipts3 as also  
some of ,capt4 ,gvilt's1 who valued them
 above gold4 ,the value for us1 however1
 is solely in the link with a noble     
family and the little touch about the   
,captain4 ,there are many more such in  
public and private libraries1 and they  
are often mere transcripts from printed 
works--select assemblages of directions 

for dressing food and curing diseases1  
formed for domestic reference before the
 advent of ,dr4 ,buchan1 and ,mrs4      
,glasse1 and ,mrs4 ,rundell4  ,among a  
valuable and extensive assemblage of    
,english and foreign cookery books in   
the ,patent ,office ,library1 ,mr4      
,ordish has obligingly pointed out to me
 a curious #dto ,,ms41 on the cover of  
which occurs1 ,mrs4 ,mary ,dacres her   
booke1 #afff4  ,even in the latter part 
of the seventeenth century the          
old-fashioned dishes1 better suited to  
the country than to the ,court taste1   
remained in fashion1 and are included in
 receipt-books1 even in that published  
by ,joseph ,cooper1 who had been        
head-cook to ,charles ,i1 and who styles
 his #afed volume ,the ,art of ,cookery 
,refined and ,augmented4 ,he gives us   
two varieties of oatmeal pudding1       
,french barley pudding1 and hasty       
pudding in a bag4 ,there is a direction 
for frying mushrooms1 which were growing
 more into favour at the table than in  

the days when ,castelvetri1 whom ,i cite
 in my monograph on ,gardening1 was     
among us4 ,another dainty is an         
ox-palate pie4  ,cooper's ,preface is   
quaint1 and surely modest enough4       
,though the cheats1 says he1 of some    
preceding pieces that treated on this   
subject 7whose ,title-pages1 like the   
contents of a weekly ,pamphlet1 promised
 much more than the ,books performed7   
may have provided this but a cold       
intertainment at its first coming       
abroad2 yet ,i know it will not stay    
long in the world1 before every rational
 reader will clear it of all alliance to
 those false pretenders4 ,ladies1       
forgive my confidence1 if ,i tell you1  
that ,i know this piece will prove your 
favourite4  ,yet ,cooper's performance1 
in spite of its droll1 self-complacent  
vein in the address to the ,reader1 is a
 judicious and useful selection1 and    
was1 in fact1 far more serviceable to   
the middle-class gentry than some of    
those which had gone before4 ,it adapted

 itself to sundry conditions of men2 but
 it kept in view those whose purses were
 not richly lined enough to pay for     
dainties and subtleties4 ,it is pleasant
 to see that1 after the countless       
centuries which had run out since       
,arthur1 the bag-pudding and hot-pot    
maintained their ground--good1          
wholesome1 country fare4  ,after the    
fall of the ,monarchy in #afdh1 the chef
 de cuisine probably found his          
occupation gone1 like a greater man     
before him2 and the world may owe to    
enforced repose this condescension to   
the pen by the deposed minister of a    
king4  ,soon after the ,restoration it  
was that some ,royalist brought out a   
small volume called ,the ,court and     
,kitchen of ,elizabeth1 commonly called 
,joan ,cromwell1 the wife of the late   
,usurper1 truly described and           
represented1 #abmo1 #affd4 ,its design  
was to throw ridicule on the parsimony  
of the ,protectoral household4 ,but he  
recites some excellent dishes which made

 their appearance at ,oliver's table3   
,dutch puddings1 ,scotch collops of     
veal1 marrow puddings1 sack posset1     
boiled woodcocks1 and warden pies4 ,he  
seems to have understood that eight     
stone of beef were cooked every morning 
for the establishment1 and all scraps   
were diligently collected1 and given    
alternately to the poor of ,st4         
,margaret's1 ,westminster1 and ,st4     
,martin's-in-the-,fields4 ,the writer   
acquaints us that1 when the ,protector  
entertained the ,french ambassador and  
the ,parliament1 after the ,sindercome  
affair1 he only spent #a1jjj over the   
banquet1 of which the ,lady ,protectress
 managed to save #bjj4 ,cromwell and his
 wife1 we are told1 did not care for    
suppers1 but contented themselves with  
eggs and slops4  ,a story is told here  
of ,cromwell and his wife sitting down  
to a loin of veal1 and his calling for  
an orange1 which was the sauce he       
preferred to that joint1 and her        
highness telling him that he could not  

have one1 for they were not to be had   
under a groat4  ,the ,mansion ,house    
still retains the ancient usage of      
distributing the relics of a great feast
 afterwards among the poor1 as ,cromwell
 is said just above to have made a rule 
of his household4 ,it was a practice    
highly essential in the absence of any  
organised system of relief4  ,the reign 
of ,charles ,,ii41 which witnessed a    
relationship with ,france of a very     
different character from that which the 
,english maintained during the          
,plantagenet and earlier ,tudor rule1   
was favourable to the naturalisation of 
the ,parisian school of cookery1 and    
numerous works were published at and    
about that time1 in which the           
development of knowledge in this        
direction is shown to have taken place  
pari passu with the advance in gardening
 and arboriculture under the auspices of
 ,evelyn4  ,in #afhc we come to a little
 volume entitled ,the ,young ,cook's    
,monitor1 by ,m4,h41 who made it public 

for the benefit of his 7or her7         
scholars2 a really valuable and         
comprehensive manual1 wherein1 without  
any attempt at arrangement1 there is an 
ample assemblage of directions for      
preparing for the table all kinds of    
joints1 made dishes1 soups and broths1  
frigacies1 puddings1 pies1 tarts1       
tansies1 and jellies4 ,receipts for     
pickling are included1 and two ways are 
shown how we should treat turnips after 
this wise4 ,some of the ingredients     
proposed for sauces seem to our ears    
rather prodigious4 ,in one place a      
contemporary peruser has inserted an    
ironical calculation in ,,ms4 to the    
effect that1 whereas a cod's head could 
be bought for fourpence1 the condiments 
recommended for it were not to be had   
for less than nine shillings4 ,the book 
teaches us to make ,scotch collops1 to  
pickle lemons and quinces1 to make      
,french bread1 to collar beef1 pork1 or 
eels1 to make gooseberry fool1 to dry   
beef after the ,dutch fashion1 to make  

sack posset two ways1 to candy flowers  
7violets1 roses1 etc47 for salads1 to   
pickle walnuts like mangoes1 to make    
flummery1 to make a carp pie1 to pickle 
,french beans and cucumbers1 to make    
damson and quince wines1 to make a      
,french pudding 7called a ,pomeroy      
pudding71 to make a leg of pork like a  
,westphalia ham1 to make mutton as beef1
 and to pot beef to eat like venison4   
,these and many other precepts has      
,m4,h4 left behind him2 and a sort of   
companion volume1 printed a little      
before1 goes mainly over the same       
ground1 to wit1 ,rare and ,excellent    
,receipts ,experienced and ,taught by   
,mrs4 ,mary ,tillinghast1 and now       
printed for the use of her scholars     
only1 #afgh4 ,the lady appealed to a    
limited constituency1 like ,m4,h42 but  
her pages1 such as they are 7for there  
are but thirty71 are now publici juris4 
,the lesson to be drawn from ,mistress  
,tillinghast's printed labours is that1 
among our ancestors in #afgh1 pies and  

pasties of all sorts1 and sweet pastry1 
were in increased vogue4 ,her slender   
volume is filled with elucidations on   
the proper manufacture of paste of      
various sorts2 and in addition to the   
pies designated by ,m4,h4 we encounter a
 ,lombard pie1 a ,battalia pie1 an      
artichoke pie1 a potato 7or secret7 pie1
 a chadron ,footnote3 ,a pie chiefly    
composed of a calf's chadroa pie1 and a 
herring pie4 ,the fair author takes care
 to instruct us as to the sauces or     
dressings which are to accompany certain
 of her dishes4  ,the ,book of ,cookery1
 #aejj1 of which there was a reprint by 
,john ,byddell about #aecj was often    
republished1 with certain modifications1
 down to #afej1 under the titles of ,a  
,proper ,new ,book of ,cookery1 or ,the 
,book of ,cookery4 ,notwithstanding the 
presence of many competitors1 it        
continued to be a public favourite1 and 
perhaps answered the wants of those who 
did not desire to see on their tables   
the foreign novelties introduced by     

travellers1 or advertised in collections
 of receipts borrowed from other        
languages4  ,in fact1 the first half of 
the seventeenth century did not witness 
many accessions to the store of         
literature on this subject4 ,but from   
the time of the ,commonwealth1 the      
supply of works of reference for the    
housekeeper and the cook became much    
more regular and extensive4 ,in #afec1  
,selden's friend1 the ,countess of      
,kent1 brought out her ,choice ,manual  
of ,physic and ,chirurgery1 annexing to 
it receipts for preserving and candying2
 and there were a few others1 about the 
same time1 of whose works ,i shall add  
here a short list3--  #a4 ,the          
,accomplished ,cook4 ,by ,robert ,may4  
#hvo1 #affj4 ,fifth edition1 #hvo1      
#afhe4  #b4 ,the ,whole ,body of        
,cookery ,dissected4 ,by ,will4         
,rabisha4 #hvo1 #affa4  #c4 ,the        
,queen-like ,closet3 a ,rich ,cabinet1  
stored with all manner of rare receipts4
 ,by ,hannah ,wolley4 #hvo1 #afgj4  #d4 

,the ,true ,way of ,preserving and      
,candying1 and making several sorts of  
,sweetmeats4 ,anon4 #hvo1 #afha4  #e4   
,the ,complete ,servant-,maid4 #ab mo1  
#afhb-c4  #f4 ,a ,choice ,collection of 
,select ,remedies4444 ,together with    
excellent ,directions for ,cooking1 and 
also for ,preserving and ,conserving4   
,by ,g4 ,hartman a ,chemist4 #hvo1      
#afhd4  #g4 ,a ,treatise of ,cleanness  
in ,meats and ,drinks1 of the           
,preparation of ,food1 etc4 ,by ,thomas 
,tryon4 #dto1 #afhb4  #h4 ,the ,genteel 
,housekeeper's ,pastime2 or1 ,the mode  
of ,carving at the ,table represented in
 a ,pack of ,playing ,cards4 #hvo1      
#afic4  #i4 ,a ,new ,art of ,brewing    
,beer1 ,ale1 and other sorts of         
,liquors4 ,by ,t4 ,tryon4 #abmo1        
#afij-ia4  #aj4 ,the ,way to get        
,wealth2 or1 ,a ,new and ,ready ,way to 
make twenty-three sorts of ,wines1 equal
 to that of ,france 444 also to make    
,cyder4444 ,by the same4 #abmo1 #agjb4  
#aa4 ,a ,treatise of ,foods in ,general4

 ,by ,louis ,lemery4 ,translated into   
,english4 #hvo1 #agjd4  #ab4 ,england's 
,newest ,way in all sorts of ,cookery4  
,by ,henry ,howard1 ,free ,cook of      
,london4 ,second edition1 #hvo1 #agjh4  
#ac4 ,royal ,cookery2 or1 the ,complete 
,court-,cook4 ,by ,patrick ,lamb1 ,esq41
 near #ej years ,master-,cook to their  
late ,majesties ,king ,charles ,,ii41   
,king ,james ,,ii41 ,king ,william1     
,mary1 and to her present ,majesty1     
,queen ,anne4 #hvo1 #agaj4 ,third       
edition1 #hvo1 #agbf4  #ad4 ,the        
,queen's ,royal ,cookery4 ,by ,j4 ,hall1
 ,free ,cook of ,london4 #abmo1         
#agac-ae4  #ae4 ,mrs4 ,mary ,eales'     
,receipts1 ,confectioner to her late    
,majesty1 ,queen ,anne4 #hvo1 #agah4    
#af4 ,a ,collection of three hundred    
,receipts in ,cookery1 ,physic1 and     
,surgery4 ,in two parts1 #hvo1 #agbi4   
#ag4 ,the ,complete ,city and ,country  
,cook4 ,by ,charles ,carter4 #hvo1      
#agcb4  #ah4 ,the ,complete ,housewife4 
,seventh edition1 #hvo1 #agcf4  #ai4    

,the ,complete ,family ,piece3 ,a very  
choice ,collection of ,receipts4 ,second
 edition1 #hvo1 #agcg4  #bj4 ,the       
,modern ,cook4 ,by ,vincent ,la         
,chapelle1 ,cook to the ,prince of      
,orange4 ,third edition4 #hvo1 #agdd4   
#ba4 ,a ,treatise of all sorts of       
,foods4 ,by ,l4 ,lemery4 ,translated by 
,d4 ,hay1 ,m4,d4 #hvo1 #agde4  ,this    
completes the list of books1 so far as  
they have fallen in my way1 or been     
pointed out by the kindness of friends1 
down to the middle of the last century4 
,it was probably ,charles1 ,duke of     
,bolton 7#afih-agbb71 who was at one    
time ,lord-,lieutenant of ,ireland1 and 
who in the beginning of his ducal       
career1 at all events1 resided in ,st4  
,james's ,street1 that possessed        
successively as head-cooks ,john ,nott  
and ,john ,middleton4 ,to each of these 
artists we owe a volume of considerable 
pretensions1 and the ,cook's and        
,confectioner's ,dictionary1 #agbc1 by  
the former1 is positively a very        

entertaining and cyclopedic publication4
 ,nott inscribes his book ,to all ,good 
,housewives1 and declares that he placed
 an ,introduction before it merely      
because fashion had made it as strange  
for a book to appear without one as for 
a man to be seen in church without a    
neckcloth or a lady without a           
hoop-petticoat4 ,he congratulates       
himself and his readers on living in a  
land flowing with milk and honey1 quotes
 the saw about ,god sending meat and    
somebody else sending cooks1 and        
accounts for his omission of pigments by
 saying1 like a gallant man1 that his   
countrywomen little needed such things4 
,nott opens with ,some ,divertisements  
in ,cookery1 us'd at ,festival-,times1  
as ,twelfth-,day1 etc41 which are highly
 curious1 and his dictionary itself     
presents the novelty of being arranged1 
lexicon-wise1 alphabetically4 ,he seems 
to have been a fairly-read and          
intelligent man1 and cites1 in the      
course of his work1 many celebrated     

names and receipts4 ,thus we have3--,to 
brew ale ,sir ,jonas ,moore's way2 to   
make ,dr4 ,butler's purging ale2 ale of 
health and strength1 by the ,viscount   
,st4 ,albans2 almond butter the         
,cambridge way2 to dress a leg of mutton
  la ,dauphine2 to dress mutton the     
,turkish way2 to stew a pike the ,city  
way4 ,dr4 ,twin's1 ,dr4 ,blacksmith's1  
and ,dr4 ,atkin's almond butter2 an     
amber pudding1 according to the ,lord   
,conway's receipt2 the ,countess of     
,rutland's ,banbury cake2 to make       
,oxford cake2 to make ,portugal cakes2  
and so on4 ,nott embraces every branch  
of his subject1 and furnishes us with   
bills of fare for every month of the    
year1 terms and rules of carving1 and   
the manner of setting out a dessert of  
fruits and sweetmeats4 ,there is a      
singular process explained for making   
,china broth1 into which an ounce of    
china is to enter4 ,many new ways had   
been gradually found of utilising the   
materials for food1 and vegetables were 

growing more plentiful4 ,the carrot was 
used in soups1 puddings1 and tarts4     
,asparagus and spinach1 which are       
wanting in all the earlier authorities1 
were common1 and the barberry had come  
into favour4 ,we now begin to notice    
more frequent mention of marmalades1    
blanc-manges1 creams1 biscuits1 and     
sweet cakes4 ,there is a receipt for a  
carraway cake1 for a cabbage pudding1   
and for a chocolate tart4  ,the         
production by his ,grace of ,bolton's   
other chef1 ,john ,middleton1 is ,five  
,hundred ,new ,receipts in ,cookery1    
,confectionary1 ,pastry1 ,preserving1   
,conserving1 ,pickling1 and the date is 
#agcd4 ,middleton doubtless borrowed a  
good deal from his predecessor2 but he  
also appears to have made some          
improvements in the science4 ,we have   
here the methods1 to dress pikes  la    
sauce ,robert1 to make blackcaps 7apples
 baked in their skins72 to make a ,wood 
,street cake2 to make ,shrewsbury cakes2
 to dress a leg of mutton like a gammon 

of bacon2 to dress eggs  la ,augemotte2 
to make a dish of quaking pudding of    
several colours2 to make an ,italian    
pudding1 and to make an ,olio4 ,the eye 
seems to meet for the first time with   
hasty pudding1 plum-porridge 7an        
experiment toward the solidification of 
the older plum-broth71 rolled           
beef-steaks1 samphire1 hedgehog cream   
7so called from its shape1 currants     
being used for the eyes1 and cut almonds
 for the bristles71 cocks'-combs1       
orange1 spinach and bean tarts1 custards
 in cups 7the #agbc book talks of       
jellies served on china plates71 and    
lastly1 jam--the real jam of these days1
 made to last1 as we are told1 the whole
 year4 ,there is an excellent           
prescription for making elderberry wine1
 besides1 in which ,malaga raisins are  
to be largely used4 ,in one year1 says  
our chef1 it will be as good and as     
pleasant as ,french wine4  ,let us      
extract the way to make                 
,black-caps3--,take a dozen of good     

pippins1 cut them in halves1 and take   
out the cores2 then place them on a     
right ,mazarine dish with the skins on1 
the cut side downwards2 put to them a   
very little water1 scrape on them some  
loaf sugar1 put them in a hot oven till 
the skins are burnt black1 and your     
apples tender2 serve them on ,plates    
strew'd over with sugar4  ,of these     
books1 ,i select the preface to ,the    
,complete ,housewife1 by ,e4 ,smith1    
#agcf1 because it appears to be a       
somewhat more ambitious endeavour in an 
introductory way than the authors of    
such undertakings usually hazard4 ,from 
the last paragraph we collect that the  
writer was a woman1 and throughout she  
makes us aware that she was a person of 
long practical experience4 ,indeed1 as  
the volume comprehends a variety of     
topics1 including medicines1 ,mrs4 or   
,miss ,smith must have been unusually   
observant1 and have had remarkable      
opportunities of making herself         
conversant with matters beyond the      

ordinary range of culinary specialists4 
,i propose presently to print a few     
samples of her workmanship1 and a list  
of her principal receipts in that       
section of the book with which ,i am    
just now concerned4 ,first of all1 here 
is the ,preface1 which begins1 as we    
see1 by a little piece of plagiarism    
from ,nott's exordium3--   ,,preface4   
,it being grown as unfashionable for a  
book now to appear in publick without a 
preface1 as for a lady to appear at a   
ball without a hoop-petticoat1 ,i shall 
conform to custom for fashion-sake1 and 
not through any necessity4 ,the subject 
being both common and universal1 needs  
no arguments to introduce it1 and being 
so necessary for the gratification of   
the appetite1 stands in need of no      
encomiums to allure persons to the      
practice of it2 since there are but few 
now-a-days who love not good eating and 
drinking4 ,therefore ,i entirely quit   
those two topicks2 but having three or  
four pages to be filled up previous to  

the subject it self1 ,i shall employ    
them on a subject ,i think new1 and not 
yet handled by any of the pretenders to 
the art of cookery2 and that is1 the    
antiquity of it2 which if it either     
instruct or divert1 ,i shall be         
satisfied1 if you are so4  ,cookrey1    
confectionary1 c41 like all other       
sciences and arts1 had their infancy1   
and did not arrive at a state of        
maturity but by slow degrees1 various   
experiments1 and a long tract of time3  
for in the infant-age of the world1 when
 the new inhabitants contented          
themselves with the simple provision of 
nature1 viz4 the vegetable diet1 the    
fruits and production of the teeming    
ground1 as they succeeded one another in
 their several peculiar seasons1 the art
 of cookery was unknown2 apples1 nuts1  
and herbs1 were both meat and sauce1 and
 mankind stood in no need of any        
additional sauces1 ragoes1 c41 but a    
good appetite2 which a healthful and    
vigorous constitution1 a clear1         

wholesome1 odoriferous air1 moderate    
exercise1 and an exemption from anxious 
cares1 always supplied them with4  ,we  
read of no palled appetites1 but such as
 proceeded from the decays of nature by 
reason of an advanced old age2 but on   
the contrary a craving stomach1 even    
upon a death-bed1 as in ,isaac3 nor no  
sicknesses but those that were both the 
first and the last1 which proceeded from
 the struggles of nature1 which abhorred
 the dissolution of soul and body2 no   
physicians to prescribe for the sick1   
nor no apothecaries to compound         
medicines for two thousand years and    
upwards4 ,food and physick were then one
 and the same thing4  ,but when men     
began to pass from a vegetable to an    
animal diet1 and feed on flesh1 fowls1  
and fish1 then seasonings grew          
necessary1 both to render it more       
palatable and savoury1 and also to      
preserve that part which was not        
immediately spent from stinking and     
corruption3 and probably salt was the   

first seasoning discover'd2 for of salt 
we read1 ,gen4 xiv4  ,and this seems to 
be necessary1 especially for those who  
were advanced in age1 whose palates1    
with their bodies1 had lost their vigour
 as to taste1 whose digestive faculty   
grew weak and impotent2 and thence      
proceeded the use of soops and savoury  
messes2 so that cookery then began to   
become a science1 though luxury had not 
brought it to the height of an art4     
,thus we read1 that ,jacob made such    
palatable pottage1 that ,esau purchased 
a mess of it at the extravagant price of
 his birthright4 ,and ,isaac1 before by 
his last will and testament he          
bequeathed his blessing to his son      
,esau1 required him to make some savoury
 meat1 such as his soul loved1 i4e41    
such as was relishable to his blunted   
palate4  ,so that seasonings of some    
sort were then in use2 though whether   
they were salt1 savoury herbs1 or roots 
only2 or spices1 the fruits of trees1   
such as pepper1 cloves1 nutmeg2 bark1 as

 cinnamon2 roots1 as ginger1 c41 ,i     
shall not determine4  ,as for the       
methods of the cookery of those times1  
boiling or stewing seems to have been   
the principal2 broiling or roasting the 
next2 besides which1 ,i presume scarce  
any other were used for two thousand    
years and more2 for ,i remember no other
 in the history of ,genesis4  ,that     
,esau was the first cook1 ,i shall not  
presume to assert2 for ,abraham gave    
order to dress a fatted calf2 but ,esau 
is the first person mentioned that made 
any advances beyond plain dressing1 as  
boiling1 roasting1 c4 ,for though we    
find indeed1 that ,rebecca his mother   
was accomplished with the skill of      
making savoury meat as well as he1 yet  
whether he learned it from her1 or she  
from him1 is a question too knotty for  
me to determine4  ,but cookery did not  
long remain a simple science1 or a bare 
piece of housewifry or family ceconomy1 
but in process of time1 when luxury     
entered the world1 it grew to an art1   

nay a trade2 for in ,i ,sam4 viii4 #ac4 
when the ,israelites grew fashionists1  
and would have a king1 that they might  
be like the rest of their neighbours1 we
 read of cooks1 confectioners1 c4  ,this
 art being of universal use1 and in     
constant practice1 has been ever since  
upon the improvement2 and we may1 ,i    
think1 with good reason believe1 is     
arrived at its greatest height and      
perfection1 if it is not got beyond it1 
even to its declension2 for whatsoever  
new1 upstart1 out-of-the-way messes some
 humourists have invented1 such as      
stuffing a roasted leg of mutton with   
pickled herring1 and the like1 are only 
the sallies of a capricious appetite1   
and debauching rather than improving the
 art itself4  ,the art of cookery1 c41  
is indeed diversified according to the  
diversity of nations or countries2 and  
to treat of it in that latitude would   
fill an unportable volume2 and rather   
confound than improve those that would  
accomplish themselves with it4 ,i shall 

therefore confine what ,i have to       
communicate within the limits of        
practicalness and usefulness1 and so    
within the compass of a manual1 that    
shall neither burthen the hands to hold1
 the eyes in reading1 nor the mind in   
conceiving4  ,what you will find in the 
following sheets1 are directions        
generally for dressing after the best1  
most natural1 and wholesome manner1 such
 provisions as are the product of our   
own country1 and in such a manner as is 
most agreeable to ,english palates3     
saving that ,i have so far temporized1  
as1 since we have to our disgrace so    
fondly admired the ,french tongue1      
,french modes1 and also ,french messes1 
to present you now and then with such   
receipts of ,french cookery1 as ,i think
 may not be disagreeable to ,english    
palates4  ,there are indeed already in  
the world various books that treat on   
this subject1 and which bear great      
names1 as cooks to kings1 princes1 and  
noblemen1 and from which one might      

justly expect something more than many1 
if not most of these ,i have read1      
perform1 but found my self deceived in  
my expectations2 for many of them to us 
are impracticable1 others whimsical1    
others unpalatable1 unless to depraved  
palates2 some unwholesome1 many things  
copied from old authors1 and recommended
 without 7as ,i am persuaded7 the       
copiers ever having had any experience  
of the palatableness1 or had any regard 
to the wholesomness of them2 which two  
things ought to be the standing rules1  
that no pretenders to cookery ought to  
deviate from4 ,and ,i cannot but        
believe1 that those celebrated          
performers1 notwithstanding all their   
professions of having ingenuously       
communicated their art1 industriously   
concealed their best receipts from the  
publick4  ,but what ,i here present the 
world with is the product of my own     
experience1 and that for the space of   
thirty years and upwards2 during which  
time ,i have been constantly employed in

 fashionable and noble families1 in     
which the provisions ordered according  
to the following directions1 have had   
the general approbation of such as have 
been at many noble entertainments4      
,these receipts are all suitable to     
,english constitutions and ,english     
palates1 wholesome1 toothsome1 all      
practicable and easy to be performed4   
,here are those proper for a frugal1 and
 also for a sumptuous table1 and if     
rightly observed1 will prevent the      
spoiling of many a good dish of meat1   
the waste of many good materials1 the   
vexation that frequently attends such   
mismanagements1 and the curses not      
unfrequently bestowed on cooks with the 
usual reflection1 that whereas ,god     
sends good meat1 the devil sends cooks4 
,as to those parts that treat of        
confectionary1 pickles1 cordials1       
,english wines1 c41 what ,i have said in
 relation to cookery is equally         
applicable to them also4  ,it is true1  
,i have not been so numerous in receipts

 as some who have gone before me1 but ,i
 think ,i have made amends in giving    
none but what are approved and          
practicable1 and fit either for a       
genteel or a noble ,table2 and altho' ,i
 have omitted odd and fantastical       
messes1 yet ,i have set down a          
considerable number of receipts4  ,the  
treatise is divided into ten parts3     
cookery contains above an hundred       
receipts1 pickles fifty1 puddings above 
fifty1 pastry above forty1 cakes forty1 
creams and jellies above forty1         
preserving an hundred1 made wines forty1
 cordial waters and powders above       
seventy1 medicines and salves above two 
hundred2 in all near eight hundred4  ,i 
have likewise presented you with schemes
 engraven on copper-plates for the      
regular disposition or placing the      
dishes of provision on the table        
according to the best manner1 both for  
summer and winter1 first and second     
courses1 c4  ,as for the receipts for   
medicines1 salves1 ointments1 good in   

several diseases1 wounds1 hurts1        
bruises1 aches1 pains1 c41 which amount 
to above two hundred1 they are generally
 family receipts1 that have never been  
made publick2 excellent in their kind1  
and approved remedies1 which have not   
been obtained by me without much        
difficulty2 and of such efficacy in     
distempers1 c41 to which they are       
appropriated1 that they have cured when 
all other means have failed2 and a few  
of them which ,i have communicated to a 
friend1 have procured a very handsome   
livelihood4  ,they are very proper for  
those generous1 charitable1 and         
,christian gentlewomen that have a      
disposition to be serviceable to their  
poor country neighbours1 labouring under
 any of the afflicted circumstances     
mentioned2 who by making the medicines1 
and generously contributing as occasions
 offer1 may help the poor in their      
afflictions1 gain their good-will and   
wishes1 entitle themselves to their     
blessings and prayers1 and also have the

 pleasure of seeing the good they do in 
this world1 and have good reason to hope
 for a reward 7though not by way of     
merit7 in the world to come4  ,as the   
whole of this collection has cost me    
much pains and a thirty years' diligent 
application1 and ,i have had experience 
of their use and efficacy1 ,i hope they 
will be as kindly accepted1 as by me    
they are generously offered to the      
publick3 and if they prove to the       
advantage of many1 the end will be      
answered that is proposed by her that is
 ready to serve the publick in what she 
may4     ,,cookery ,,books4  ,,part     
,,ii4  ,,select ,,extracts ,,from ,,an  
,,early ,,receipt-,,book4   ,the        
earliest school of ,english ,cookery1   
which had such a marked ,anglo-,norman  
complexion1 has been familiarised to us 
by the publication of ,warner's         
,antiquitates ,culinaricae1 #agia1 and  
more recently by the appearance of the  
,noble ,book of ,cookery in ,mrs4       
,napier's edition1 not to mention other 

aids in the same way1 which are         
accessible2 and it seemed to be doing a 
better service1 when it became a        
question of selecting a few specimens of
 old receipts1 to resort to the         
representative of a type of culinary    
philosophy and sentiment somewhere      
midway between those which have been    
rendered easy of reference and our own4 
,i have therefore given in the few      
following pages1 in a classified shape1 
some of the highly curious contents of  
,e4 ,smith's ,compleat ,housewife1      
#agcf1 which maybe securely taken to    
exhibit the state of knowledge in       
,england upon this subject in the last  
quarter of the seventeenth century and  
first quarter of the succeeding one4 ,in
 the work itself no attempt at          
arrangement is offered4   ,i4--,,meat1  
,,poultry1 ,,etc4  ,to make             
,dutch-beef3--,take the lean part of a  
buttock of beef raw2 rub it well with   
brown sugar all over1 and let it lie in 
a pan or tray two or three hours1       

turning it three or four times2 then    
salt it well with common salt and       
salt-petre1 and let it lie a fortnight1 
turning it every day2 then roll it very 
strait in a coarse cloth1 and put it in 
a cheese-press a day and a night1 and   
hang it to dry in a chimney4 ,when you  
boil it1 you must put it in a cloth3    
when 'tis cold1 it will cut out into    
shivers as ,dutch-beef4  ,to dry ,mutton
 to cut out in ,shivers as              
,dutch-,beef3--,take a middling leg of  
mutton1 then take half a pound of brown 
sugar1 and rub it hard all over your    
mutton1 and let it lie twenty-four      
hours2 then take an ounce and half of   
saltpetre1 and mix it with a pound of   
common salt1 and rub that all over the  
mutton every other day1 till 'tis all   
on1 and let it lie nine days longer2    
keep the place free from brine1 then    
hang it up to dry three days1 then smoke
 it in a chimney where wood is burnt2   
the fire must not be too hot2 a         
fortnight will dry it4 ,boil it like    

other hams1 and when 'tis cold1 cut it  
out in shivers like ,dutch-beef4  ,to   
stuff a ,shoulder or ,leg of ,mutton    
with ,oysters3--,take a little grated   
bread1 some beef-suet1 yolks of hard    
eggs1 three anchovies1 a bit of an      
onion1 salt and pepper1 thyme and       
winter-savoury1 twelve oysters1 some    
nutmeg grated2 mix all these together1  
and shred them very fine1 and work them 
up with raw eggs like a paste1 and stuff
 your mutton under the skin in the      
thickest place1 or where you please1 and
 roast it2 and for sauce take some of   
the oyster-liquor1 some claret1 two or  
three anchovies1 a little nutmeg1 a bit 
of an onion1 the rest of the oysters3   
stew all these together1 then take out  
the onion1 and put it under the mutton4 
,to marinade a ,leg of ,lamb3--,take a  
leg of lamb1 cut it in pieces the       
bigness of a half-crown2 hack them with 
the back of a knife2 then take an       
eschalot1 three or four anchovies1 some 
cloves1 mace1 nutmeg1 all beaten2 put   

your meat in a dish1 and strew the      
seasoning over it1 and put it in a      
stew-pan1 with as much white-wine as    
will cover it1 and let it be two hours2 
then put it all together in a           
frying-pan1 and let it be half enough2  
then take it out and drain it through a 
colander1 saving the liquor1 and put to 
your liquor a little pepper and salt1   
and half a pint of gravy2 dip your meat 
in yolks of eggs1 and fry it brown in   
butter2 thicken up your sauce with yolks
 of eggs and butter1 and pour it in the 
dish with your meat3 lay sweet-breads   
and forc'd-meat balls over your meat2   
dip them in eggs1 and fry them4 ,garnish
 with lemon4  ,a ,leg of ,mutton        
-la-,daube3--,lard your meat with bacon 
through1 but slant-way2 half roast it2  
take it off the spit1 and put it in a   
small pot as will boil it2 two quarts of
 strong broth1 a pint of white-wine1    
some vinegar1 whole spice1 bay-leaves1  
green onions1 savoury1 sweet-marjoram2  
when 'tis stew'd enough1 make sauce of  

some of the liquor1 mushrooms1 lemon cut
 like dice1 two or three anchovies3     
thicken it with browned butter4 ,garnish
 with lemon4  ,to fry ,cucumbers for    
,mutton ,sauce3--,you must brown some   
butter in a pan1 and cut the cucumbers  
in thin slices2 drain them from the     
water1 then fling them into the pan1 and
 when they are fried brown1 put in a    
little pepper and salt1 a bit of an     
onion and gravy1 and let them stew      
together1 and squeeze in some juice of  
lemon2 shake them well1 and put them    
under your mutton4  ,to make            
,pockets3--,cut three slices out of a   
leg of veal1 the length of a finger1 the
 breadth of three fingers1 the thickness
 of a thumb1 with a sharp penknife2 give
 it a slit through the middle1 leaving  
the bottom and each side whole1 the     
thickness of a straw2 then lard the top 
with small fine lards of bacon2 then    
make a forc'd-meat of marrow1           
sweet-breads1 and lamb-stones just      
boiled1 and make it up after 'tis       

seasoned and beaten together with the   
yolks of two eggs1 and put it into your 
pockets as if you were filling a        
pincushion2 then sew up the top with    
fine thread1 flour them1 and put melted 
butter on them1 and bake them2 roast    
three sweet-breads to put between1 and  
serve them with gravy-sauce4  ,to make a
 ,florendine of ,veal3--,take the kidney
 of a loin of veal1 fat and all1 and    
mince it very fine2 then chop a few     
herbs1 and put to it1 and add a few     
currants2 season it with cloves1 mace1  
nutmeg1 and a little salt2 and put in   
some yolks of eggs1 and a handful of    
grated bread1 a pippin or two chopt1    
some candied lemon-peel minced small1   
some sack1 sugar1 and                   
orange-flower-water4 ,put a sheet of    
puff-paste at the bottom of your dish2  
put this in1 and cover it with another2 
close it up1 and when 'tis baked1 scrape
 sugar on it2 and serve it hot4  ,to    
make a ,tureiner3--,take a china pot or 
bowl1 and fill it as follows3 at the    

bottom lay some fresh butter2 then put  
in three or four beef-steaks larded with
 bacon2 then cut some veal-steaks from  
the leg2 hack them1 and wash them over  
with the yolk of an egg1 and afterwards 
lay it over with forc'd-meat1 and roll  
it up1 and lay it in with young         
chickens1 pigeons and rabbets1 some in  
quarters1 some in halves2 sweet-breads1 
lamb-stones1 cocks-combs1 palates after 
they are boiled1 peeled1 and cut in     
slices3 tongues1 either hogs or calves1 
sliced1 and some larded with bacon3     
whole yolks of hard eggs1 pistachia-nuts
 peeled1 forced balls1 some round1 some 
like an olive1 lemon sliced1 some with  
the rind on1 barberries and oysters3    
season all these with pepper1 salt1     
nutmeg1 and sweet-herbs1 mix'd together 
after they are cut very small1 and strew
 it on every thing as you put it in your
 pot3 then put in a quart of gravy1 and 
some butter on the top1 and cover it    
close with a lid of puff-paste1 pretty  
thick4 ,eight hours will bake it4  ,to  

make ,hams of ,pork like                
,westphalia3--,to two large hams1 or    
three small ones1 take three pounds of  
common salt1 and two pounds and half of 
brown coarse sugar2 mix both together1  
and rub it well into the hams1 and let  
them lie seven days1 turning them every 
day1 and rub the salt in them1 when you 
turn them2 then take four ounces of     
salt-petre beat small1 and mix with two 
handfuls of common salt1 and rub that   
well in your hams1 and let them lie a   
fortnight longer3 then hang them up high
 in a chimney to smoke4  ,to make a     
,ragoo of ,pigs-,ears3--,take a quantity
 of pigs-ears1 and boil them in one half
 wine and the other water2 cut them in  
small pieces1 then brown a little       
butter1 and put them in1 and a pretty   
deal of gravy1 two anchovies1 an        
eschalot or two1 a little mustard1 and  
some slices of lemon1 some salt1 and    
nutmeg2 stew all these together1 and    
shake it up thick4 ,garnish the dish    
with barberries4  ,to collar a          

,pig3--,cut off the head of your pig2   
then cut the body asunder2 bone it1 and 
cut two collars off each side2 then lay 
it in water to take out the blood2 then 
take sage and parsley1 and shred them   
very small1 and mix them with pepper1   
salt1 and nutmeg1 and strew some on     
every side1 or collar1 and roll it up1  
and tye it with coarse tape2 so boil    
them in fair water and salt1 till they  
are very tender3 put two or three blades
 of mace in the kettle1 and when they   
are enough1 take them up1 and lay them  
in something to cool2 strain out some of
 the liquor1 and add to it some vinegar 
and salt1 a little white-wine1 and three
 or four bay-leaves2 give it a boil up1 
and when 'tis cold put it to the        
collars1 and keep them for use4  ,a     
,fricasy of ,double ,tripe3--,cut your  
tripe in slices1 two inches long1 and   
put it into a stew-pan2 put to it a     
quarter of a pound of capers1 as much   
samphire shred1 half a pint of strong   
broth1 as much white-wine1 a bunch of   

sweet-herbs1 a lemon shred small2 stew  
all these together till 'tis tender2    
then take it off the fire1 and thicken  
up the liquor with the yolks of three or
 four eggs1 a little parsley boiled     
green and chopp'd1 some grated nutmeg   
and salt2 shake it well together4 ,serve
 it on sippets4 ,garnish with lemon4    
,to pot a ,swan3--,bone and skin your   
swan1 and beat the flesh in a mortar1   
taking out the strings as you beat it2  
then take some clear fat bacon1 and beat
 with the swan1 and when 'tis of a light
 flesh colour1 there is bacon enough in 
it2 and when 'tis beaten till 'tis like 
dough1 'tis enough2 then season it with 
pepper1 salt1 cloves1 mace1 and nutmeg1 
all beaten fine2 mix it well with your  
flesh1 and give it a beat or two all    
together2 then put it in an earthen pot1
 with a little claret and fair water1   
and at the top two pounds of fresh      
butter spread over it2 cover it with    
coarse paste1 and bake it with bread2   
then turn it out into a dish1 and       

squeeze it gently to get out the        
moisture2 then put it in a pot fit for  
it2 and when 'tis cold1 cover it over   
with clarified butter1 and next day     
paper it up4 ,in this manner you may do 
goose1 duck1 or beef1 or hare's flesh4  
,to make a ,poloe3--,take a pint of     
rice1 boil it in as much water as will  
cover it2 when your rice is half boiled1
 put in your fowl1 with a small onion1 a
 blade or two of mace1 some whole       
pepper1 and some salt2 when 'tis enough1
 put the fowl in the dish1 and pour the 
rice over it4  ,to make a ,pulpatoon of 
,pigeons3--,take mushrooms1 palates1    
oysters1 sweet-breads1 and fry them in  
butter2 then put all these into a strong
 gravy2 give them a heat over the fire1 
and thicken up with an egg and a bit of 
butter2 then half roast six or eight    
pigeons1 and lay them in a crust of     
forc'd-meat as follows3 scrape a pound  
of veal1 and two pounds of marrow1 and  
beat it together in a stone mortar1     
after 'tis shred very fine2 then season 

it with salt1 pepper1 spice1 and put in 
hard eggs1 anchovies and oysters2 beat  
all together1 and make the lid and sides
 of your pye of it2 first lay a thin    
crust into your pattipan1 then put on   
your forc'd-meat2 then lay an exceeding 
thin crust over them2 then put in your  
pigeons and other ingredients1 with a   
little butter on the top4 ,bake it two  
hours4  ,to keep ,green ,peas till      
,christmas3--,shell what quantity you   
please of young peas2 put them in the   
pot when the water boils2 let them have 
four or five warms2 then first pour them
 into a colander1 and then spread a     
cloth on a table1 and put them on that1 
and dry them well in it3 have bottles   
ready dry'd1 and fill them to the necks1
 and pour over them melted mutton-fat1  
and cork them down very close1 that no  
air come to them3 set them in your      
cellar1 and when you use them1 put them 
into boiling water1 with a spoonful of  
fine sugar1 and a good piece of butter3 
and when they are enough1 drain and     

butter them4   ,,ii4--,,meat ,,pies     
,,and ,,puddings4  ,a ,battalia         
,pye3--,take four small chickens1 four  
squab pigeons1 four sucking rabbets2 cut
 them in pieces1 season them with       
savoury spice1 and lay 'em in the pye1  
with four sweet-breads sliced1 and as   
many sheep's-tongues1 two shiver'd      
palates1 two pair of lamb-stones1 twenty
 or thirty coxcombs1 with savoury-balls 
and oysters4 ,lay on butter1 and close  
the pye4 ,a lear4  ,to make an ,olio    
,pye3--,make your pye ready2 then take  
the thin collops of the but-end of a leg
 of veal2 as many as you think will fill
 your pye2 hack them with the back of a 
knife1 and season them with pepper1     
salt1 cloves1 and mace2 wash over your  
collops with a bunch of feathers dipped 
in eggs1 and have in readiness a good   
hand-full of sweet-herbs shred small2   
the herbs must be thyme1 parsley1 and   
spinage2 and the yolks of eight hard    
eggs1 minced1 and a few oysters         
parboiled and chopt2 some beef-suet     

shred very fine4 ,mix these together1   
and strew them over your collops1 and   
sprinkle a little orange-flower-water on
 them1 and roll the collops up very     
close1 and lay them in your pye1        
strewing the seasoning that is left over
 them2 put butter on the top1 and close 
up your pye2 when 'tis drawn1 put in    
gravy1 and one anchovy dissolved in it1 
and pour it in very hot3 and you may put
 in artichoke-bottoms and chesnuts1 if  
you please1 or sliced lemon1 or grapes  
scalded1 or what else is in season2 but 
if you will make it a right savoury pye 
leave them out4  ,to make a ,lumber     
,pye3--,take a pound and a half of veal1
 parboil it1 and when 'tis cold chop it 
very small1 with two pound of beef-suet1
 and some candied orange-peel2 some     
sweet-herbs1 as thyme1 sweet-marjoram1  
and an handful of spinage2 mince the    
herbs small before you put them to the  
other2 so chop all together1 and a      
pippin or two2 then add a handful or two
 of grated bread1 a pound and a half of 

currants1 washed and dried2 some cloves1
 mace1 nutmeg1 a little salt1 sugar and 
sack1 and put to all these as many yolks
 of raw eggs1 and whites of two1 as will
 make it a moist forc'd-meat2 work it   
with your hands into a body1 and make it
 into balls as big as a turkey's egg2   
then having your coffin made put in your
 balls4 ,take the marrow out of three or
 four bones as whole as you can3 let    
your marrow lie a little in water1 to   
take out the blood and splinters2 then  
dry it1 and dip it in yolk of eggs2     
season it with a little salt1 nutmeg    
grated1 and grated bread2 lay it on and 
between your forc'd-meat balls1 and over
 that sliced citron1 candied orange and 
lemon1 eryngo-roots1 preserved          
barberries2 then lay on sliced lemon1   
and thin slices of butter over all2 then
 lid your pye1 and bake it2 and when    
'tis drawn1 have in readiness a caudle  
made of white-wine and sugar1 and       
thicken'd with butter and eggs1 and pour
 it hot into your pye4  ,very fine ,hogs

 ,puddings3--,shred four pounds of      
beef-suet very fine1 mix with it two    
pounds of fine sugar powder'd1 two      
grated nutmegs1 some mace beat1 and a   
little salt1 and three pounds of        
currants wash'd and pick'd2 beat        
twenty-four yolks1 twelve whites of     
eggs1 with a little sack2 mix all well  
together1 and fill your guts1 being     
clean and steep'd in                    
orange-flower-water2 cut your guts      
quarter and half long1 fill them half   
full2 tye at each end1 and again thus   
oooo4 ,boil them as others1 and cut them
 in balls when sent to the table4  ,to  
make ,plumb-,porridge3--,take a leg and 
shin of beef to ten gallons of water1   
boil it very tender1 and when the broth 
is strong1 strain it out1 wipe the pot1 
and put in the broth again2 slice six   
penny-loaves thin1 cutting off the top  
and bottom2 put some of the liquor to   
it1 cover it up1 and let it stand a     
quarter of an hour1 and then put it in  
your pot1 let it boil a quarter of an   

hour1 then put in five pounds of        
currants1 let them boil a little1 and   
put in five pounds of raisins1 and two  
pounds of prunes1 and let them boil till
 they swell2 then put in three quarters 
of an ounce of mace1 half an ounce of   
cloves1 two nutmegs1 all of them beat   
fine1 and mix it with a little liquor   
cold1 and put them in a very little     
while1 and take off the pot1 and put in 
three pounds of sugar1 a little salt1 a 
quart of sack1 and a quart of claret1   
the juice of two or three lemons2 you   
may thicken with sagoe instead of bread1
 if you please2 pour them into earthen  
pans1 and keep them for use4            
,,iii4--,,sweet-,,puddings1 ,,pies1     
,,etc4  ,to make ,new-,college          
,puddings3--,grate a penny stale loaf1  
and put to it a like quantity of        
beef-suet finely shred1 and a nutmeg    
grated1 a little salt1 some currants1   
and then beat some eggs in a little     
sack1 and some sugar1 and mix all       
together1 and knead it as stiff as for  

manchet1 and make it up in the form and 
size of a turkey-egg1 but a little      
flatter2 then take a pound of butter1   
and put it in a dish1 and set the dish  
over a clear fire in a chafing-dish1 and
 rub your butter about the dish till    
'tis melted2 put your puddings in1 and  
cover the dish1 but often turn your     
puddings1 until they are all brown      
alike1 and when they are enough1 scrape 
sugar over them1 and serve them up hot  
for a side dish4  ,you must let the     
paste lie a quarter of an hour before   
you make up your puddings4  ,to make a  
,spread-,eagle pudding3--,cut off the   
crust of three half-penny rolls1 then   
slice them into your pan2 then set three
 pints of milk over the fire1 make it   
scalding hot1 but not boil2 so pour it  
over your bread1 and cover it close1 and
 let it stand an hour2 then put in a    
good spoonful of sugar1 a very little   
salt1 a nutmeg grated1 a pound of suet  
after 'tis shred1 half a pound of       
currants washed and picked1 four        

spoonfuls of cold milk1 ten eggs1 but   
five of the whites2 and when all is in1 
stir it1 but not till all is in2 then   
mix it well1 butter a dish2 less than an
 hour will bake it4  ,to make a ,cabbage
 ,pudding3--,take two pounds of the lean
 part of a leg of veal2 take of         
beef-suet the like quantity2 chop them  
together1 then beat them together in a  
stone mortar1 adding to it half a little
 cabbage1 scalded1 and beat that with   
your meat2 then season it with mace and 
nutmeg1 a little pepper and salt1 some  
green gooseberries1 grapes1 or          
barberries in the time of year4 ,in the 
winter put in a little verjuice2 then   
mix all well together1 with the yolks of
 four or five eggs well beaten2 then    
wrap it up in green cabbage leaves2 tye 
a cloth over it1 boil it an hour3 melt  
butter for sauce4  ,to make a ,calf's   
,foot ,pudding3--,take two calf's feet  
finely shred2 then of biskets grated1   
and stale mackaroons broken small1 the  
quantity of a penny loaf2 then add a    

pound of beef-suet1 very finely shred1  
half a pound of currants1 a quarter of a
 pound of sugar2 some cloves1 mace and  
nutmeg1 beat fine2 a very little salt1  
some sack and orange-flower-water1 some 
citron and candied orange-peel2 work all
 these well together1 with yolks of     
eggs2 if you boil it1 put it in the caul
 of a breast of veal1 and tie it over   
with a cloth2 it must boil four hours4  
,for sauce1 melt butter1 with a little  
sack and sugar2 if you bake it1 put some
 paste in the bottom of the dish1 but   
none on the brim2 then melt half a pound
 of butter1 and mix with your stuff1 and
 put it in your dish1 and stick lumps of
 marrow in it2 bake it three or four    
hours2 scrape sugar over it1 and serve  
it hot4  ,to make a ,chestnut           
,pudding3--,take a dozen and half of    
chestnuts1 put them in a skillet of     
water1 and set them on the fire till    
they will blanch2 then blanch them1 and 
when cold1 put them in cold water1 then 
stamp them in a mortar1 with            

orange-flower-water and sack1 till they 
are very small2 mix them in two quarts  
of cream1 and eighteen yolks of eggs1   
the whites of three or four2 beat the   
eggs with sack1 rose-water and sugar2   
put it in a dish with puff-paste2 stick 
in some lumps of marrow or fresh butter1
 and bake it4  ,to make a ,brown-bread  
,pudding3--,take half a pound of brown  
bread1 and double the weight of it in   
beef-suet2 a quarter of a pint of cream1
 the blood of a fowl1 a whole nutmeg1   
some cinnamon1 a spoonful of sugar1 six 
yolks of eggs1 three whites3 mix it all 
well together1 and boil it in a wooden  
dish two hours4 ,serve it with sack and 
sugar1 and butter melted4  ,to make a   
baked ,sack ,pudding3--,take a pint of  
cream1 and turn it to a curd with a     
sack2 then bruise the curd very small   
with a spoon2 then grate in two         
,naples-biskets1 or the inside of a     
stale penny-loaf1 and mix it well with  
the curd1 and half a nutmeg grated2 some
 fine sugar1 and the yolks of four eggs1

 the whites of two1 beaten with two     
spoonfuls of sack2 then melt half a     
pound of fresh butter1 and stir all     
together till the oven is hot4 ,butter a
 dish1 and put it in1 and sift some     
sugar over it1 just as 'tis going into  
the oven half an hour will bake it4  ,to
 make an ,orange ,pudding3--,take two   
large ,sevil oranges1 and grate off the 
rind1 as far as they are yellow2 then   
put your oranges in fair water1 and let 
them boil till they are tender2 shift   
the water three or four times to take   
out the bitterness2 when they are       
tender1 cut them open1 and take away the
 seeds and strings1 and beat the other  
part in a mortar1 with half a pound of  
sugar1 till 'tis a paste2 then put in   
the yolks of six eggs1 three or four    
spoonfuls of thick cream1 half a        
,naples-biscuit grated2 mix these       
together1 and melt a pound of very good 
fresh butter1 and stir it well in2 when 
'tis cold1 put a bit of fine puff-paste 
about the brim and bottom of your dish1 

and put it in and bake it about three   
quarters of an hour4  ,another sort of  
,orange ,pudding3--,take the outside    
rind of three ,sevil oranges1 boil them 
in several waters till they are tender2 
then pound them in a mortar with three  
quarters of a pound of sugar2 then      
blanch and beat half a pound of almonds 
very fine1 with rose-water to keep them 
from oiling2 then beat sixteen eggs1 but
 six whites1 and a pound of fresh       
butter2 beat all these together very    
well till 'tis light and hollow2 then   
put it in a dish1 with a sheet of       
puff-paste at the bottom1 and bake it   
with tarts2 scrape sugar on it1 and     
serve it up hot4  ,to make a            
,french-,barley ,pudding3--,take a quart
 of cream1 and put to it six eggs well  
beaten1 but three of the whites2 then   
season it with sugar1 nutmeg1 a little  
salt1 orange-flower-water1 and a pound  
of melted butter2 then put to it six    
handfuls of ,french-barley that has been
 boiled tender in milk3 butter a dish1  

and put it in1 and bake it4 ,it must    
stand as long as a venison-pasty1 and it
 will be good4  ,to make a ,skirret     
,pye3--,boil your biggest skirrets1 and 
blanch them1 and season them with       
cinamon1 nutmeg1 and a very little      
ginger and sugar4 ,your pye being ready1
 lay in your skirrets2 season also the  
marrow of three or four bones with      
cinamon1 sugar1 a little salt and grated
 bread4 ,lay the marrow in your pye1 and
 the yolks of twelve hard eggs cut in   
halves1 a handful of chesnuts boiled and
 blanched1 and some candied orange-peel 
in slices4 ,lay butter on the top1 and  
lid your pye4 ,let your caudle be       
white-wine1 verjuice1 some sack and     
sugar2 thicken it with the yolks of     
eggs1 and when the pye is baked1 pour it
 in1 and serve it hot4 ,scrape sugar on 
it4  ,to make a ,cabbage-,lettuce       
,pye3--,take some of the largest and    
hardest cabbage-lettuce you can get2    
boil them in salt and water till they   
are tender2 then lay them in a colander 

to drain dry2 then have your paste laid 
in your pattipan ready1 and lay butter  
on the bottom2 then lay in your lettuce 
and some artichoke-bottoms1 and some    
large pieces of marrow1 and the yolks of
 eight hard eggs1 and some scalded      
sorrel2 bake it1 and when it comes out  
of the oven1 cut open the lid2 and pour 
in a caudle made with white-wine and    
sugar1 and thicken with eggs2 so serve  
it hot4  ,potato1 or ,lemon             
,cheesecakes3--,take six ounces of      
potatoes1 four ounces of lemon-peel four
 ounces of sugar1 four ounces of butter2
 boil the lemon-peel til tender1 pare   
and scrape the potatoes1 and boil them  
tender and bruise them2 beat the        
lemon-peel with the sugar1 then beat all
 together very well1 and melt all       
together very well1 and let it lie till 
cold3 put crust in your pattipans1 and  
fill them little more than half full3   
bake them in a quick oven half an hour1 
sift some double-refined sugar on them  
as they go into the oven2 this quantity 

will make a dozen small pattipans4  ,to 
make ,almond ,cheesecakes3--,take a good
 handful or more of almonds1 blanch them
 in warm water1 and throw them in cold2 
pound them fine1 and in the pounding put
 a little sack or orange-flower-water to
 keep them from oiling2 then put to your
 almonds the yolks of two hard eggs1 and
 beat them together3 beat the yolks of  
six eggs1 the whites of three1 and mix  
with your almonds1 and half a pound of  
butter melted1 and sugar to your taste2 
mix all well together1 and use it as    
other cheesecake stuff4  ,to make the   
light ,wigs3--,take a pound and half of 
flour1 and half a pint of milk made     
warm2 mix these together1 and cover it  
up1 and let it lie by the fire half an  
hour2 then take half a pound of sugar1  
and half a pound of butter2 then work   
these in the paste1 and make it into    
wigs1 with as little flour as possible4 
,let the oven be pretty quick1 and they 
will rise very much4  ,to make very good
 ,wigs3--,take a quarter of a peck of   

the finest flour1 rub into it three     
quarters of a pound of fresh butter1    
till 'tis like grated bread1 something  
more than half a pound of sugar1 half a 
nutmeg1 and half a race of ginger       
grated2 three eggs1 yolks and whites    
beaten very well1 and put to them half a
 pint of thick ale-yeast1 three or four 
spoonfuls of sack4 ,make a hole in your 
flour1 and pour in your yeast and eggs1 
and as much milk just warm1 as will make
 it into a light paste4 ,let it stand   
before the fire to rise half an hour2   
then make it into a dozen and half of   
wigs2 wash them over with eggs just as  
they go into the oven2 a quick oven1 and
 half an hour will bake them4  ,to make 
,carrot or ,parsnip ,puffs3--,scrape and
 boil your carrots or parsnips tender2  
then scrape or mash them very fine1 add 
to a pint of pulp the crumb of a        
penny-loaf grated1 or some stale        
biscuit1 if you have it1 some eggs1 but 
four whites1 a nutmeg grated1 some      
orange-flower-water1 sugar to your      

taste1 a little sack1 and mix it up with
 thick cream4 ,they must be fry'd in    
rendered suet1 the liquor very hot when 
you put them in2 put in a good spoonful 
in a place4  ,a ,tansy3--,boil a quart  
of cream or milk with a stick of        
cinamon1 quarter'd nutmeg1 and large    
mace2 when half cold1 mix it with twenty
 yolks of eggs1 and ten whites2 strain  
it1 then put to it four grated biskets1 
half a pound of butter1 a pint of       
spinage-juice1 and a little tansy1 sack1
 and orange-flower-water1 sugar1 and a  
little salt2 then gather it to a body   
over the fire1 and pour it into your    
dish1 being well butter'd4 ,when it is  
baked1 turn it on a pye-plate2 squeeze  
on it an orange1 grate on sugar1 and    
garnish it with slic'd orange and a     
little tansy4 ,made in a dish2 cut as   
you please4  ,to make ,sack             
,cream3--,take the yolks of two eggs1   
and three spoonfuls of fine sugar1 and a
 quarter of a pint of sack3 mix them    
together1 and stir them into a pint of  

cream2 then set them over the fire till 
'tis scalding hot1 but let it not boil4 
,you may toast some thin slices of white
 bread1 and dip them in sack or         
orange-flower-water1 and pour your cream
 over them4  ,to make ,quince           
,cream3--,take quinces1 scald them till 
they are soft2 pare them1 and mash the  
clear part of them1 and pulp it through 
a sieve2 take an equal weight of quince1
 and double-refin'd sugar beaten and    
sifted1 and the whites of eggs1 and beat
 it till it is as white as snow1 then   
put it in dishes4  ,to make ,pistachia  
,cream3--,peel your pistachias1 and beat
 them very fine1 and boil them in cream2
 if 'tis not green enough1 add a little 
juice of spinage2 thicken it with eggs1 
and sweeten to your taste2 pour it in   
basons1 and set it by till 'tis cold4   
,to make white ,jelly of                
,quinces3--,pare your quinces1 and cut  
them in halves2 then core them and      
parboil your quinces2 when they are     
soft1 take them up1 and crush them      

through a strainer1 but not too hard1   
only the clear juice4 ,take the weight  
of the juice in fine sugar2 boil the    
sugar candy-height1 and put in your     
juice1 and let it scald awhile1 but not 
boil2 and if any froth arise1 scum it   
off1 and when you take it up1 have ready
 a white preserved quince cut in small  
slices1 and lay them in the bottom of   
your glasses1 and pour your jelly to    
them1 it will candy on the top and keep 
moist on the bottom a long time4  ,to   
make ,hart's-,horn ,jelly3--,take a     
large gallipot1 and fill it full of     
hart's-horn1 and then fill it full with 
spring-water1 and tie a double paper    
over the gallipot1 and set it in the    
baker's oven with household bread2 in   
the morning take it out1 and run it     
through a jelly-bag1 and season it with 
juice of lemons1 and double-refin'd     
sugar1 and the whites of eight eggs well
 beaten2 let it have a boil1 and run it 
thro' the jelly-bag again into your     
jelly-glasses2 put a bit of lemon-peel  

in the bag4   ,,iv4--,,cheeses4  ,the   
,queen's ,cheese3--,take six quarts of  
the best stroakings1 and let them stand 
till they are cold2 then set two quarts 
of cream on the fire till 'tis ready to 
boil2 then take it off1 and boil a quart
 of fair water1 and take the yolks of   
two eggs1 and one spoonful of sugar1 and
 two spoonfuls of runnet2 mingle all    
these together1 and stir it till 'tis   
blood warm3 when the cheese is come1 use
 it as other cheese2 set it at night1   
and the third day lay the leaves of     
nettles under and over it3 it must be   
turned and wiped1 and the nettles       
shifted every day1 and in three weeks it
 will be fit to eat4 ,this cheese is    
made between ,michaelmas and            
,alhallontide4  ,to make a ,slip-coat   
,cheese3--,take new milk and runnet1    
quite cold1 and when 'tis come1 break it
 as little as you can in putting it into
 the cheese-fat1 and let it stand and   
whey itself for some time2 then cover   
it1 and set about two pound weight on   

it1 and when it will hold together1 turn
 it out of that cheese-fat1 and keep it 
turning upon clean cheese-fats for two  
or three days1 till it has done wetting1
 and then lay it on sharp-pointed       
dock-leaves till 'tis ripe3 shift the   
leaves often4  ,to make a ,new-market   
,cheese to cut at two ,years old3--,any 
morning in ,september1 take twenty      
quarts of new milk warm from the cow1   
and colour it with marigolds3 when this 
is done1 and the milk not cold1 get     
ready a quart of cream1 and a quart of  
fair water1 which must be kept stirring 
over the fire till 'tis scalding hot1   
then stir it well into the milk and     
runnet1 as you do other cheese2 when    
'tis come1 lay cheese-cloths over it1   
and settle it with your hands2 the more 
hands the better2 as the whey rises1    
take it away1 and when 'tis clean gone1 
put the curd into your fat1 breaking it 
as little as you can2 then put it in the
 press1 and press it gently an hour2    
take it out again1 and cut it in thin   

slices1 and lay them singly on a cloth1 
and wipe them dry2 then put it in a tub1
 and break it with your hands as small  
as you can1 and mix with it a good      
handful of salt1 and a quart of cold    
cream2 put it in the fat1 and lay a     
pound weight on it till next day2 then  
press and order it as others4           
,v4--,,cakes4  ,to make ,shrewsbury     
,cakes3--,take to one pound of sugar1   
three pounds of the finest flour1 a     
nutmeg grated1 some beaten cinamon2 the 
sugar and spice must be sifted into the 
flour1 and wet it with three eggs1 and  
as much melted butter1 as will make it  
of a good thickness to roll into a      
paste2 mould it well and roll it1 and   
cut it into what shape you please4      
,perfume them1 and prick them before    
they go into the oven4  ,to make        
,whetstone ,cakes3--,take half a pound  
of fine flour1 and half a pound of loaf 
sugar searced1 a spoonful of            
carraway-seeds dried1 the yolk of one   
egg1 the whites of three1 a little      

rose-water1 with ambergrease dissolved  
in it2 mix it together1 and roll it out 
as thin as a wafer2 cut them with a     
glass2 lay them on flour'd paper1 and   
bake them in a slow oven4  ,to make     
,portugal ,cakes3--,take a pound and a  
quarter of fine flour well dried1 and   
break a pound of butter into the flour  
and rub it in1 add a pound of loaf-sugar
 beaten and sifted1 a nutmeg grated1    
four perfumed plums1 or some            
ambergrease2 mix these well together1   
and beat seven eggs1 but four whites1   
with three spoonfuls of                 
orange-flower-water2 mix all these      
together1 and beat them up an hour2     
butter your little pans1 and just as    
they are going into the oven1 fill them 
half full1 and searce some fine sugar   
over them2 little more than a quarter of
 an hour will bake them4 ,you may put a 
handful of currants into some of them2  
take them out of the pans as soon as    
they are drawn1 keep them dry1 they will
 keep good three months4  ,to make      

,jumbals3--,take the whites of three    
eggs1 beat them well1 and take off the  
froth2 then take a little milk1 and a   
little flour1 near a pound1 as much     
sugar sifted1 a few carraway-seeds      
beaten very fine2 work all these in a   
very stiff paste1 and make them into    
what form you please bake them on white 
paper4  ,to make ,march-pane3--,take a  
pound of ,jordan almonds1 blanch and    
beat them in a marble mortar very fine2 
then put to them three-quarters of a    
pound of double-refin'd sugar1 and beat 
with them a few drops of                
orange-flower-water2 beat all together  
till 'tis a very good paste1 then roll  
it into what shape you please2 dust a   
little fine sugar under it as you roll  
it to keep it from sticking4 ,to ice it1
 searce double-refined sugar as fine as 
flour1 wet it with rose-water1 and mix  
it well together1 and with a brush or   
bunch of feathers spread it over your   
march-pane3 bake them in an oven that is
 not too hot3 put wafer-paper at the    

bottom1 and white paper under that1 so  
keep them for use4  ,to make the        
,marlborough ,cake3--,take eight eggs1  
yolks and whites1 beat and strain them1 
and put to them a pound of sugar beaten 
and sifted2 beat it three-quarters of an
 hour together2 then put in             
three-quarters of a pound of flour well 
dried1 and two ounces of carraway-seeds2
 beat it all well together1 and bake it 
in a quick oven in broad tin-pans4  ,to 
make ,wormwood ,cakes3--,take one pound 
of double-refin'd sugar sifted2 mix it  
with the whites of three or four eggs   
well beat2 into this drop as much       
chymical oil of wormwood as you please4 
,so drop them on paper2 you may have    
some white1 and some marble1 with specks
 of colours1 with the point of a pin2   
keep your colours severally in little   
gallipots4 ,for red1 take a dram of     
cochineel1 a little cream of tartar1 as 
much of allum2 tye them up severally in 
little bits of fine cloth1 and put them 
to steep in one glass of water two or   

three hours4 ,when you use the colour1  
press the bags in the water1 and mix    
some of it with a little of the white of
 egg and sugar4 ,saffron colours yellow2
 and must be tyed in a cloth1 as the    
red1 and put in water4 ,powder-blue1    
mix'd with the saffron-water1 makes a   
green2 for blue1 mix some dry           
powder-blue with some water4  ,a ,french
 ,cake to eat hot3--,take a dozen of    
eggs1 and a quart of cream1 and as much 
flour as will make it into a thick      
batter2 put to it a pound of melted     
butter1 half a pint of sack1 one nutmeg 
grated1 mix it well1 and let it stand   
three or four hours2 then bake it in a  
quick oven1 and when you take it out1   
split it in two1 and pour a pound of    
butter on it melted with rose-water2    
cover it with the other half1 and serve 
it up hot4  ,to make the thin ,dutch    
,bisket3--,take five pounds of flour1   
and two ounces of carraway-seeds1 half a
 pound of sugar1 and something more than
 a pint of milk4 ,warm the milk1 and put

 into it three-quarters of a pound of   
butter2 then make a hole in the middle  
of your flour1 and put in a full pint of
 good ale-yeast2 then pour in the butter
 and milk1 and make these into a paste1 
and let it stand a quarter of an hour by
 the fire to rise2 then mould it1 and   
roll it into cakes pretty thin2 prick   
them all over pretty much or they will  
blister2 so bake them a quarter of an   
hour4  ,to make ,dutch                  
,ginger-bread3--,take four pounds of    
flour1 and mix with it two ounces and a 
half of beaten ginger2 then rub in a    
quarter of a pound of butter1 and add to
 it two ounces of carraway-seeds1 two   
ounces of orange-peel dried and rubb'd  
to powder1 a few coriander-seeds        
bruised1 two eggs3 then mix all up in a 
stiff paste1 with two pounds and a      
quarter of treacle2 beat it very well   
with a rolling-pin1 and make it up into 
thirty cakes2 put in a candied citron2  
prick them with a fork3 butter papers   
three double1 one white1 and two brown2 

wash them over with the white of an egg2
 put them into an oven not too hot1 for 
three-quarters of an hour4  ,to make    
,cakes of ,flowers3--,boil              
double-refin'd sugar candy-high1 and    
then strew in your flowers1 and let them
 boil once up2 then with your hand      
lightly strew in a little double-refin'd
 sugar sifted2 and then as quick as may 
be1 put it into your little pans1 made  
of card1 and pricked full of holes at   
bottom4 ,you must set the pans on a     
pillow1 or cushion2 when they are cold1 
take them out4   ,,vi4--,,caudles ,,and 
,,possets4  ,to make a ,posset with     
,ale3 ,king-,william's ,posset3--,take a
 quart of cream1 and mix with it a pint 
of ale1 then beat the yolks of ten eggs1
 and the whites of four2 when they are  
well beaten1 put them to the cream and  
ale1 sweeten it to your taste1 and slice
 some nutmeg in it2 set it over the     
fire1 and keep it stirring all the      
while1 and when 'tis thick1 and before  
it boils1 take it off1 and pour it into 

the bason you serve it in to the table4 
,to make the ,pope's ,posset3--,blanch  
and beat three-quarters of a pound of   
almonds so fine1 that they will spread  
between your fingers like butter1 put in
 water as you beat them to keep them    
from oiling2 then take a pint of sack or
 sherry1 and sweeten it very well with  
double-refin'd sugar1 make it boiling   
hot1 and at the same time put half a    
pint of water to your almonds1 and make 
them boil2 then take both off the fire1 
and mix them very well together with a  
spoon2 serve it in a china dish4  ,to   
make ,flummery ,caudle3--,take a pint of
 fine oatmeal1 and put to it two quarts 
of fair water3 let it stand all night1  
in the morning stir it1 and strain it   
into a skillet1 with three or four      
blades of mace1 and a nutmeg quartered2 
set it on the fire1 and keep it         
stirring1 and let it boil a quarter of  
an hour2 if it is too thick1 put in more
 water1 and let it boil longer2 then add
 a pint of ,rhenish or white-wine2 three

 spoonfuls of orange-flower-water1 the  
juice of two lemons and one orange1 a   
bit of butter1 and as much fine sugar as
 will sweeten it2 let all these have a  
warm1 and thicken it with the yolks of  
two or three eggs4 ,drink it hot for a  
breakfast4  ,to make ,tea               
,caudle3--,make a quart of strong green 
tea1 and pour it out into a skillet1 and
 set it over the fire2 then beat the    
yolks of four eggs and mix with them a  
pint of white-wine1 a grated nutmeg1    
sugar to your taste1 and put all        
together2 stir it over the fire till    
'tis very hot1 then drink it in china   
dishes as caudle4   ,,vii4--,,conserves1
 ,,dried ,,and ,,can-,,died ,,fruits1   
,,marmalades1 ,,etc4  ,to dry ,apricocks
 like ,prunella's3--,take a pound of    
,apricocks2 being cut in halves or      
quarters1 let them boil till they be    
very tender in a thin syrup2 let them   
stand a day or two in the stove1 then   
take them out of the syrup1 and lay them
 drying till they be as dry as          

prunello's1 then box them3 you may make 
your syrup red with the juice of red    
plums2 if you please you may pare them4 
,to candy ,angelica3--,take angelica    
that is young1 and cut it in fit        
lengths1 and boil it till it is pretty  
tender1 keeping it close covered2 then  
take it up and peel off all the strings2
 then put it in again1 and let it simmer
 and scald till 'tis very green2 then   
take it up and dry it in a cloth1 and   
weigh it1 and to every pound of angelica
 take a pound of double-refin'd sugar   
beaten and sifted2 put your angelica in 
an earthen pan1 and strew the sugar over
 it1 and let it stand two days2 then    
boil it till it looks very clear1 put it
 in a colander to drain the syrup from  
it1 and take a little double-refin'd    
sugar and boil it to sugar again2 then  
throw in your angelica1 and take it out 
in a little time1 and put it on glass   
plates4 ,it will dry in your stove1 or  
in an oven after pyes are drawn4  ,to   
candy ,orange-,flowers3--,take half a   

pound of double-refin'd sugar finely    
beaten1 wet it with orange-flower-water1
 then boil it candy-high1 then put in a 
handful of orange-flowers1 keeping it   
stirring1 but let it not boil1 and when 
the sugar candies about them1 take it   
off the fire1 drop it on a plate1 and   
set it by till 'tis cold4  ,to make     
,conserve of ,red-,roses1 or any other  
,flowers3--,take rose-buds1 and pick    
them1 and cut off the white part from   
the red1 and put the red flowers1 and   
sift them through a sieve to take out   
the seeds2 then weigh them1 and to every
 pound of flowers take two pounds and a 
half of loaf-sugar1 beat the flowers    
pretty fine in a stone mortar2 then by  
degrees put the sugar to them1 and beat 
it very well till 'tis well incorporated
 together2 then put it into gallipots1  
and tye it over with paper1 and over    
that leather1 and it will keep seven    
years4  ,to preserve white ,pear        
,plumbs3--,take pear plumbs when they   
are yellow1 before they are too ripe2   

give them a slit in the seam1 and prick 
them behind2 make your water almost     
scalding hot1 and put a little sugar to 
it to sweeten it1 and put in your plumbs
 and cover them close2 set them on the  
fire to coddle1 and take them off       
sometimes a little1 and set them on     
again3 take care they do not break2 have
 in readiness as much double-refin'd    
sugar boiled to a height as will cover  
them1 and when they are coddled pretty  
tender1 take them out of that liquor1   
and put them into your preserving-pan to
 your syrup1 which must be but          
blood-warm when your plumbs go in4 ,let 
them boil till they are clear1 scum them
 and take them off1 and let them stand  
two hours2 then set them on again and   
boil them1 and when they are thoroughly 
preserved1 take them up and lay them in 
glasses2 boil your syrup till 'tis      
thick2 and when 'tis cold1 put in your  
plumbs2 and a month after1 if your syrup
 grows thin1 you must boil it again1 or 
make a fine jelly of pippins1 and put on

 them4 ,this way you may do the         
pimordian plumb1 or any white plumb1 and
 when they are cold1 paper them up4  ,to
 preserve ,mulberries whole3--,set some 
mulberries over the fire in a skillet1  
and draw from them a pint of juice1 when
 'tis strained4 ,then take three pounds 
of sugar1 beaten very fine2 wet the     
sugar with the pint of juice2 boil up   
your sugar1 and scum it1 and put in two 
pounds of ripe mulberries1 and let them 
stand in the syrup till they are        
thoroughly warm2 then set them on the   
fire1 and let them boil very gently2 do 
them but half enough1 so put them by in 
the syrup till next day2 then boil them 
gently again1 and when the syrup is     
pretty thick1 and will stand in a round 
drop when 'tis cold1 they are enough2 so
 put all together in a gallipot for use4
  ,to preserve whole ,quinces           
white3--,take the largest quinces of the
 greenest colour1 and scald them till   
they are pretty soft2 then pare them and
 core them with a scoop2 then weigh your

 quinces against so much double-refin'd 
sugar1 and make a syrup of one half1 and
 put in your quinces1 and boil them as  
fast as you can2 then you must have in  
readiness pippin liquor2 let it be very 
strong of the pippins1 and when 'tis    
strained out1 put in the other half of  
your sugar1 and make it a jelly1 and    
when your quinces are clear1 put them   
into the jelly1 and let them simmer a   
little2 they will be very white2 so     
glass them up1 and when they are cold1  
paper them and keep them in a stove4    
,to make white ,quince                  
,marmalade3--,scald your quinces tender1
 take off the skin and pulp them from   
the core very fine1 and to every pound  
of quince have a pound and half of      
double-refin'd sugar in lumps1 and half 
a pint of water2 dip your sugar in the  
water and boil and scum it till 'tis a  
thick syrup3 then put in your quince1   
boil and scum it on a quick fire a      
quarter of an hour1 so put it in your   
pots4  ,to make red ,quince             

,marmalade3--,pare and core a pound of  
quince1 beat the parings and cores and  
some of your worst quinces1 and strain  
out the juice2 and to every pound of    
quince take ten or twelve spoonfuls of  
that juice1 and three-quarters of a     
pound of loaf-sugar2 put all into your  
preserving-pan1 cover it close1 and let 
it stew over a gentle fire two hours2   
when 'tis of an orange-red1 uncover and 
boil it up as fast as you can3 when of a
 good colour1 break it as you like it1  
give it a boil1 and pot it up4  ,to make
 ,melon ,mangoes3--,take small melons1  
not quite ripe1 cut a slip down the     
side1 and take out the inside very      
clean2 beat mustard-seeds1 and shred    
garlick1 and mix with the seeds1 and put
 in your mangoes2 put the pieces you cut
 out into their places again1 and tye   
them up1 and put them into your pot1 and
 boil some vinegar 7as much as you think
 will cover them7 with whole pepper1 and
 some salt1 and ,jamaica pepper1 and    
pour in scalding hot over your mangoes1 

and cover them close to keep in the     
steam2 and so do every day for nine     
times together1 and when they are cold  
cover them with leather4  ,to make      
,conserve of ,hips3--,gather the hips   
before they grow soft1 cut off the heads
 and stalks1 slit them in halves1 and   
take out all the seed and white that is 
in them very clean2 then put them in an 
earthen pan1 and stir them every day1   
else they will grow mouldy2 let them    
stand till they are soft enough to rub  
through a coarse hair-sieve2 as the pulp
 comes1 take it off the sieve2 they are 
a dry berry1 and will require pains to  
rub it through2 then add its weight in  
sugar1 and mix it well together without 
boiling2 keeping it in deep gallipots   
for use4  ,to make clear ,cakes of      
,gooseberries3--,take your white ,dutch 
gooseberries when they are thorough     
ripe1 break them with your fingers and  
squeeze out all the pulp into a fine    
piece of cambrick or thick muslin to run
 thro' clear2 then weigh the juice and  

sugar one against the other2 then boil  
the juice a little while1 then put in   
your sugar and let it dissolve1 but not 
boil2 scum it and put it into glasses1  
and stove it in a warm stove4  ,to make 
white ,quince ,paste3--,scald the       
quinces tender to the core1 and pare    
them1 and scrape the pulp clean from the
 core1 beat it in a mortar1 and pulp it 
through a colander2 take to a pound of  
pulp a pound and two ounces of sugar1   
boil the sugar till 'tis candy-high2    
then put in your pulp1 stir it about    
constantly till you see it come clear   
from the bottom of the preserving-pan2  
then take it off1 and lay it on plates  
pretty thin3 you may cut it in what     
shape you please1 or make quince chips  
of it2 you must dust it with sugar when 
you put it into the stove1 and turn it  
on papers in a sieve1 and dust the other
 side2 when they are dry1 put them in   
boxes with papers between4 ,you may make
 red quince paste the same way as this1 
only colour the quince with cochineel4  

,to make ,syrup of any flower3--,clip   
your flowers1 and take their weight in  
sugar2 then take a high gallipot1 and a 
row of flowers1 and a strewing of sugar1
 till the pot is full2 then put in two  
or three spoonfuls of the same syrup or 
still'd water2 tye a cloth on the top of
 the pot1 and put a tile on that1 and   
set your gallipot in a kettle of water  
over a gentle fire1 and let it infuse   
till the strength is out of the flowers1
 which will be in four or five hours2   
then strain it thro' a flannel1 and when
 'tis cold bottle it up4                
,,viii4--,,pickles4  ,to pickle         
,nasturtium-,buds3--,gather your little 
knobs quickly after your blossoms are   
off2 put them in cold water and salt for
 three days1 shifting them once a day2  
then make a pickle 7but do not boil it  
at all7 of some white-wine1 some        
white-wine vinegar1 eschalot1           
horse-radish1 pepper1 salt1 cloves1 and 
mace whole1 and nutmeg quartered2 then  
put in your seeds and stop them close2  

they are to be eaten as capers4  ,to    
keep ,quinces in ,pickle3--,cut five or 
six quinces all to pieces1 and put them 
in an earthen pot or pan1 with a gallon 
of water and two pounds of honey2 mix   
all these together well1 and then put   
them in a kettle to boil leisurely half 
an hour1 and then strain your liquor    
into that earthen pot1 and when 'tis    
cold1 wipe your quinces clean1 and put  
them into it3 they must be covered very 
close1 and they will keep all the year4 
,to pickle ,ashen-keys3--,take          
ashen-keys as young as you can get them1
 and put them in a pot with salt and    
water2 then take green whey1 when 'tis  
hot1 and pour over them2 let them stand 
till they are cold before you cover     
them1 so let them stand2 when you use   
them1 boil them in fair water2 when they
 are tender take them out1 and put them 
in salt and water4  ,to pickle ,pods of 
,radishes3--,gather the youngest pods1  
and put them in water and salt          
twenty-four hours2 then make a pickle   

for them of vinegar1 cloves1 mace1 whole
 pepper3 boil this1 and drain the pods  
from the salt and water1 and pour the   
liquor on them boiling hot3 put to them 
a clove of garlick a little bruised4    
,to pickle ,broom-,buds3--,put your     
broom-buds into little linnen-bags1 tie 
them up1 and make a pickle of bay-salt  
and water boiled1 and strong enough to  
bear an egg2 put your bags in a pot1 and
 when your pickle is cold1 put it to    
them2 keep them close1 and let them lie 
till they turn black2 then shift them   
two or three times1 till they change    
green2 then take them out1 and boil them
 as you have occasion for them3 when    
they are boiled1 put them out of the    
bag3 in vinegar they will keep a month  
after they are boiled4  ,to pickle      
,purslain ,stalks3--,wash your stalks1  
and cut them in pieces six inches long2 
boil them in water and salt a dozen     
walms2 take them up1 drain them1 and    
when they cool1 make a pickle of stale  
beer1 white-wine vinegar1 and salt1 put 

them in1 and cover them close4          
,,ix4--,,wines4  ,to make strong        
,mead3--,take of spring-water what      
quantity you please1 and make it more   
than blood-warm1 and dissolve honey in  
it till 'tis strong enough to bear an   
egg1 the breadth of a shilling2 then    
boil it gently near an hour1 taking off 
the scum as it rises2 then put to about 
nine or ten gallons1 seven or eight     
large blades of mace1 three nutmegs     
quarter'd1 twenty cloves1 three or four 
sticks of cinamon1 two or three roots of
 ginger1 and a quarter of an ounce of   
,jamaica pepper2 put these spices into  
the kettle to the honey and water1 a    
whole lemon1 with a sprig of            
sweet-briar1 and a sprig of rosemary2   
tie the briar and rosemary together1 and
 when they have boiled a little while1  
take them out and throw them away2 but  
let your liquor stand on the spice in a 
clean earthen pot till the next day2    
then strain it into a vessel that is fit
 for it2 put the spice in a bag1 and    

hang it in the vessel1 stop it1 and at  
three months draw it into bottles4 ,be  
sure that 'tis fine when 'tis bottled2  
after 'tis bottled six weeks 'tis fit to
 drink4  ,to make small ,white          
,mead3--,take three gallons of          
spring-water and make it hot1 and       
dissolve in it three quarts of honey and
 a pound of loaf sugar2 and let it boil 
about half an hour1 and scum it as long 
as any rises1 then pour it out into a   
tub1 and squeeze in the juice of four   
lemons2 put in the rinds of but two2    
twenty cloves1 two races of ginger1 a   
top of sweet-briar1 and a top of        
rosemary4 ,let it stand in a tub till   
'tis but blood warm2 then make a brown  
toast and spread it with two or three   
spoonfuls of ale-yeast1 put it into a   
vessel fit for it2 let it stand four or 
five days1 then bottle it out4  ,to make
 ,frontiniac ,wine3--,take six gallons  
of water and twelve pounds of white     
sugar1 and six pounds of raisins of the 
sun cut small2 boil these together an   

hour2 then take of the flowers of elder1
 when they are falling and will shake   
off1 the quantity of half a peck2 put   
them in the liquor when 'tis almost     
cold1 the next day put in six spoonfuls 
of syrup of lemons1 and four spoonfuls  
of ale-yeast1 and two days after put it 
in a vessel that is fit for it1 and when
 it has stood two months bottle it off4 
,to make ,english ,champagne1 or the    
fine ,currant ,wine3--,take to three    
gallons of water nine pounds of ,lisbon 
sugar2 boil the water and sugar half an 
hour1 scum it clean1 then have one      
gallon of currants pick'd1 but not      
bruised1 pour the liquor boiling-hot    
over them1 and when cold1 work it with  
half a pint of balm two days2 then pour 
it through a flannel or sieve1 then put 
it into a barrel fit for it with half an
 ounce of ising-glass well bruised2 when
 it has done working1 stop it close for 
a month1 then bottle it1 and in every   
bottle put a very small lump of         
double-refin'd sugar4 ,this is excellent

 wine1 and has a beautiful colour4  ,to 
make ,saragossa ,wine1 or ,english      
,sack3--,to every quart of water1 put a 
sprig of rue1 and to every gallon a     
handful of fennel-roots1 boil these half
 an hour1 then strain it out1 and to    
every gallon of this liquor put three   
pounds of honey2 boil it two hours1 and 
scum it well1 and when 'tis cold pour it
 off and turn it into a vessel1 or such 
cask that is fit for it2 keep it a year 
in the vessel1 and then bottle it2 'tis 
a very good sack4  ,mountain            
,wine3--,pick out the big stalks of your
 ,malaga raisins1 then chop them very   
small1 five gallons to every gallon of  
cold spring-water1 let them steep a     
fortnight or more1 squeeze out the      
liquor and barrel it in a vessel fit for
 it2 first fume the vessel with         
brimstone2 don't stop it up till the    
hissing is over4  ,to make ,quince      
,wine2--,take your quinces when they are
 thorough ripe1 wipe off the fur very   
clean2 then take out the cores and      

bruise them as you do apples for cyder1 
and press them1 and to every gallon of  
juice put two pounds and a half of fine 
sugar1 stir it together till 'tis       
dissolved2 then put it in your cask1 and
 when it has done working stop it close2
 let it stand till ,march before you    
bottle it4 ,you may keep it two or three
 years1 it will be better4  ,to make    
,plumb ,wine3--,take twenty pounds of   
,malaga raisins1 pick1 rub1 and shred   
them1 and put them into a tub2 then take
 four gallons of fair water and boil it 
an hour1 and let it stand till 'tis     
blood-warm2 then put it to your raisins2
 let it stand nine or ten days1 stirring
 it once or twice a day1 strain out your
 liquor1 and mix with it two quarts of  
damson juice1 put it in a vessel1 and   
when it has done working1 stop it close2
 at four or five months bottle it4  ,to 
make ,birch ,wine3--,in ,march bore a   
hole in a tree1 and put in a faucet1 and
 it will run two or three days together 
without hurting the tree2 then put in a 

pin to stop it1 and the next year you   
may draw as much from the same hole2 put
 to every gallon of the liquor a quart  
of good honey1 and stir it well         
together1 boil it an hour1 scum it well1
 and put in a few cloves1 and a piece of
 lemon-peel2 when 'tis almost cold1 put 
to it so much ale-yeast as will make it 
work like new ale1 and when the yeast   
begins to settle1 put it in a runlet    
that will just hold it3 so let it stand 
six weeks or longer if you please2 then 
bottle it1 and in a month you may drink 
it4 ,it will keep a year or two4 ,you   
may make it with sugar1 two pounds to a 
gallon1 or something more1 if you keep  
it long4 ,this is admirably wholesome as
 well as pleasant1 an opener of         
obstructions1 good against the          
phthisick1 and good against the spleen  
and scurvy1 a remedy for the stone1 it  
will abate heat in a fever or thrush1   
and has been given with good success4   
,to make ,sage ,wine3--,boil twenty-six 
quarts of spring-water a quarter of an  

hour1 and when 'tis blood-warm1 put     
twenty-five pounds of ,malaga raisins   
pick'd1 rubb'd and shred into it1 with  
almost half a bushel of red sage shred1 
and a porringer of ale-yeast2 stir all  
well together1 and let it stand m a tub 
cover'd warm six or seven days1 stirring
 it once a day2 then strain it out1 and 
put it in a runlet4 ,let it work three  
or four days1 stop it up2 when it has   
stood six or seven days put in a quart  
or two of ,malaga sack1 and when 'tis   
fine bottle it4  ,sage ,wine another    
way3--,take thirty pounds of ,malaga    
raisins pick'd clean1 and shred small1  
and one bushel of green sage shred      
small1 then boil five gallons of water1 
let the water stand till 'tis luke-warm2
 then put it in a tub to your sage and  
raisins2 let it stand five or six days1 
stirring it twice or thrice a day2 then 
strain and press the liquor from the    
ingredients1 put it in a cask1 and let  
it stand six months3 then draw it clean 
off into another vessel2 bottle it in   

two days2 in a month or six weeks it    
will be fit to drink1 but best when 'tis
 a year old4  ,to make ,ebulum3--,to a  
hogshead of strong ale1 take a heap'd   
bushel of elder-berries1 and half a     
pound of juniper-berries beaten2 put in 
all the berries when you put in the     
hops1 and let them boil together till   
the berries brake in pieces1 then work  
it up as you do ale2 when it has done   
working1 add to it half a pound of      
ginger1 half an ounce of cloves1 as much
 mace1 an ounce of nutmegs1 and as much 
cinamon grosly beaten1 half a pound of  
citron1 as much eringo-root1 and        
likewise of candied orange-peel2 let the
 sweetmeats be cut in pieces very thin1 
and put with the spice into a bag and   
hang it in the vessel when you stop it  
up4 ,so let it stand till 'tis fine1    
then bottle it up and drink it with     
lumps of double-refined sugar in the    
glass4  ,to make ,cock ,ale3--,take ten 
gallons of ale1 and a large cock1 the   
older the better1 parboil the cock1 flea

 him1 and stamp him in a stone mortar   
till his bones are broken1 7you must    
craw and gut him when you flea him7 put 
the cock into two quarts of sack1 and   
put to it three pounds of raisins of the
 sun stoned1 some blades of mace1 and a 
few cloves2 put all these into a canvas 
bag1 and a little before you find the   
ale has done working1 put the ale and   
bag together into a vessel2 in a week or
 nine days' time bottle it up1 fill the 
bottles but just above the necks1 and   
leave the same time to ripen as other   
ale4  ,to make it ,elder ,ale3--,take   
ten bushels of malt to a hogshead1 then 
put two bushels of elder-berries pickt  
from the stalks into a pot or earthen   
pan1 and set it in a pot of boiling     
water till the berries swell1 then      
strain it out and put the juice into the
 guile-fat1 and beat it often in1 and so
 order it as the common way of brewing4 
,to clear ,wine3--,take half a pound of 
hartshorn1 and dissolve it in cyder1 if 
it be for cyder1 or ,rhenish-wine for   

any liquor3 this is enough for a        
hogshead4  ,to fine ,wine the ,lisbon   
way3--,to every twenty gallons of wine  
take the whites of ten eggs1 and a small
 handful of salt1 beat it together to a 
froth1 and mix it well with a quart or  
more of the wine1 then pour it in the   
vessel1 and in a few days it will be    
fine4     ,,cookery ,,books4  ,,part    
,,iii4   ,in #agdg appeared a thin folio
 volume1 of which ,i will transcribe the
 title3 ,the ,art of ,cookery1 ,made    
,plain and ,easy1 which far ,exceeds    
,every ,thing of the ,kind ,ever yet    
,published 444 ,by a ,lady4 ,london3    
,printed for the ,author2 and sold at   
,mrs4 ,ashburn's1 a ,china ,shop1 the   
,corner of ,fleet ,ditch4 ,,mdccxlvii4  
,the lady was no other than ,mrs4       
,glasse1 wife of an attorney residing in
 ,carey ,street2 and a very sensible    
lady she was1 and a very sensible and   
interesting book hers is1 with a preface
 showing that her aim was to put matters
 as plainly as she could1 her intention 

being to instruct the lower sort4 ,for  
example1 says she1 when ,i bid them lard
 a fowl1 if ,i should bid them lard with
 large lardoons they would not know what
 ,i meant2 but when ,i say they must    
lard with little pieces of ,bacon1 they 
know what ,i mean4 ,i have been greatly 
charmed with ,hannah ,glasse's ,art of  
,cookery1 #agdg1 and with her ,complete 
,confectioner likewise in a modified    
degree4 ,the latter was partly derived1 
she tells you1 from the manuscript of a 
very old experienced housekeeper to a   
family of the first distinction4 ,but1  
nevertheless1 both are very admirable   
performances2 and yet the compiler      
survives scarcely more than in an       
anecdote for which ,i can see no        
authority4 ,for she does not say1 ,first
 catch your hare ,footnote3 ,mrs4       
,glasse's cookery book was reprinted at 
least as late as #ahbd4  ,mrs4 ,glasse  
represents that1 before she undertook   
the preparation of the volume on        
confectionery1 there was nothing of the 

kind for reference and consultation4    
,but we had already a curious work by   
,e4 ,kidder1 who was1 according to his  
title-page1 a teacher of the art which  
he expounded eventually in print4 ,the  
title is sufficiently descriptive3 ,e4  
,kidder's ,receipts of ,pastry and      
,cookery1 for the use of his ,scholars1 
who teaches at his ,school in ,queen    
,street1 near ,st4 ,thomas ,apostle's1  
,footnote3 ,in another edition his      
school is in ,st4 ,martin's ,le ,grand  
on ,mondays1 ,tuesdays and ,wednesdays1 
in the afternoon4 ,also on ,thursdays1  
,fridays and ,saturdays1 in the         
afternoon1 at his ,school next to       
,furnivalls ,inn in ,holborn4 ,ladies   
may be taught at their own ,houses4 ,it 
is a large octavo1 consisting of fifty  
pages of engraved text1 and is          
embellished with a likeness of ,mr4     
,kidder4 ,for all that ,mrs4 ,glasse    
ignores him4  ,i have shown how ,mrs4   
,glasse might have almost failed to keep
 a place in the public recollection1 had

 it not been for a remark which that    
lady did not make4 ,but there is a still
 more singular circumstance connected   
with her and her book1 and it is        
this--that in ,dr4 ,johnson's day1 and  
possibly in her own lifetime1 a story   
was current that the book was really    
written by ,dr4 ,hill the physician4    
,that gentleman's claim to the          
authorship has not1 of course1 been     
established1 but at a dinner at ,dilly's
 the publisher's in #aggh1 when         
,johnson1 ,miss ,seward1 and others were
 present1 a curious little discussion   
arose on the subject4 ,boswell thus     
relates the incident and the            
conversation3--,the subject of cookery  
having been very naturally introduced at
 a table1 where ,johnson1 who boasted of
 the niceness of his palate1 avowed that
 'he always found a good dinner1' he    
said1 ',i could write a better book     
about cookery than has ever yet been    
written2 it should be a book upon       
philosophical principles4 ,pharmacy is  

now made much more simple4 ,cookery may 
be so too4 ,a prescription1 which is now
 compounded of five ingredients1 had    
formerly fifty in it4 ,so in ,cookery4  
,if the nature of the ingredients is    
well known1 much fewer will do4 ,then1  
as you cannot make bad meat good1 ,i    
would tell what is the best butcher's   
meat1 the best beef1 the best pieces2   
how to choose young fowls2 the proper   
seasons of different vegetables2 and    
then how to roast1 and boil1 and        
compound4  ,,dilly3--,mrs4 ,glasse's    
',cookery1' which is the best1 was      
written by ,dr4 ,hill4 ,half the trade  
know this4  ,,johnson3--,well1 ,sir1    
that shews how much better the subject  
of cookery may be treated by a          
philosopher4 ,i doubt if the book be    
written by ,dr ,hill2 for in ,mrs4      
,glasse's ,cookery1 which ,i have looked
 into1 saltpetre and salt-prunella are  
spoken of as different substances1      
whereas salt-prunella is only saltpetre 
burnt on charcoal2 and ,hill could not  

be ignorant of this4 ,however1 as the   
greatest part of such a book is made by 
transcription1 this mistake may have    
been carelessly adopted4 ,but you shall 
see what a book of cookery ,i could     
make4 ,i shall agree with ,mr4 ,dilly   
for the copyright4  ,miss               
,,seward3--,that would be ,hercules with
 the distaff indeed6  ,,johnson3--,no1  
,madam4 ,women can spin very well2 but  
they cannot make a good book of cookery4
  ,but the ,doctor's philosophical      
cookery book belongs to the voluminous  
calendar of works which never passed    
beyond the stage of proposal2 he did    
not1 so far as we know1 ever draw out a 
title-page1 as ,coleridge was fond of   
doing2 and perhaps the loss is to be    
borne with4 ,the ,doctor would have     
pitched his discourse in too high a key4
  ,among the gastronomical enlargements 
of our literature in the latter half of 
the last century1 one of the best books 
in point of classification and range is 
that by ,b4 ,clermont1 of which the     

third edition made its appearance in    
#aggf1 the first having been anonymous4 
,clermont states that he had been clerk 
of the kitchen in some of the first     
families of the kingdom1 and lately to  
the ,earl of ,abingdon4 ,but elsewhere  
we find that he had lived very recently 
in the establishment of the ,earl of    
,ashburnham1 for he observes in the     
preface3 ,i beg the candour of the      
,public will excuse the incorrectness of
 the ,language and ,diction4 ,my        
situation in life as an actual servant  
to the ,earl of ,ashburnham at the time 
of the first publication of this ,book  
will ,i trust plead my ,apology4 ,he    
informs his readers on the title-page1  
and repeats in the preface1 that a      
material part of the work consists of a 
translation of ,les ,soupers de la      
,cour1 and he proceeds to say1 that he  
does not pretend to make any further    
apology for the title of supper1 than   
that the ,french were1 in general1 more 
elegant in their suppers than their     

dinners4 ,in other words1 the late      
dinner was still called supper4  ,the   
writer had procured the ,french treatise
 from ,paris for his own use1 and had   
found it of much service to him in his  
capacity as clerk of the kitchen1 and he
 had consequently translated it1 under  
the persuasion that it would prove an   
assistance to gentlemen1 ladies1 and    
others interested in such matters4 ,he  
specifies three antecedent publications 
in ,france1 of which his pages might be 
considered the essence1 viz41 ,la       
,cuisine ,royale1 ,le ,matre d',htel    
,cuisinier1 and ,les ,dons de ,comus2   
and he expresses to some of his         
contemporaries1 who had helped him in   
his researches1 his obligations in the  
following terms3--,as every country     
produces many ,articles peculiar to     
itself1 and considering the ,difference 
of ,climates1 which either forward or   
retard them1 ,i would not rely on my own
 ,knowledge1 in regard to such          
,articles2 ,i applied therefore to three

 ,tradesmen1 all eminent in their       
,profession1 one for ,fish1 one for     
,poultry1 and one for the productions of
 the ,garden1 viz41 ,mr4 ,humphrey      
,turner1 the ,manager in ,st4 ,james's  
,market2 ,mr4 ,andrews1 ,poulterer in   
ditto2 and ,mr4 ,adam ,lawson1 many     
years chief gardener to the ,earl of    
,ashburnham2 in this article ,i was also
 assisted by ,mr4 ,rice1 ,green-,grocer1
 in ,st4 ,albans ,street4 ,clermont     
dates his remarks from ,princes ,street1
 ,cavendish ,square4  ,while ,mrs4      
,glasse was still in the middle         
firmament of public favour1 a little    
book without the writer's name was      
published as by ,a ,lady4 ,i have not   
seen the first or second editions2 but  
the third appeared in #ahjh4 ,it is     
called ,a ,new ,system of ,domestic     
,cookery1 ,formed upon ,principles of   
,economy1 and ,adapted to the use of    
,private ,families4 ,the author was     
,helene ,rundell1 of whom ,i am unable  
to supply any further particulars at    

present4 ,mrs4 ,rundell's cookery book1 
according to the preface1 was originally
 intended for the private instruction of
 the daughters of the authoress in their
 married homes1 and specially prepared  
with an eye to housekeepers of moderate 
incomes4 ,mrs4 ,rundell did not write   
for professed cooks1 or with any idea of
 emolument2 and she declared that had   
such a work existed when she first set  
out in life it would have been a great  
treasure to her4 ,the public shared the 
writer's estimate of her labours1 and   
called for a succession of impressions  
of the ,new ,system1 till its run was   
checked by ,miss ,acton's still more    
practical collection4 ,mrs4 ,rundell is 
little consulted nowadays2 but time was 
when ,mrs4 ,glasse and herself were the 
twin stars of the culinary empyrean4    
,coming down to our own times1 the names
 most familiar to our ears are ,ude1    
,francatelli1 and ,soyer1 and they are  
the names of foreigners ,footnote3 ,a   
fourth work before me has no clue to the

 author1 but it is like the others1 of  
an alien complexion4 ,it is called      
,french ,domestic ,cookery1 ,combining  
,elegance and ,economy4 ,in twelve      
,hundred ,receipts1 #abmo1 #ahdf4       
,soyer's book appeared in the same year4
 ,in #ahbj1 an anonymous writer printed 
a ,latin poem of his own composition1   
called ,tabella ,cibaria1 a ,bill of    
,fare1 etc41 etc41 with ,copious ,notes1
 which seem more important than the     
text4 ,no ,english school of cookery can
 be said ever to have existed in        
,england4 ,we have1 and have always had1
 ample material for making excellent    
dishes2 but if we desire to turn it to  
proper account1 we have to summon men   
from a distance to our aid1 or to accept
 the probable alternative--failure4 ,the
 adage1 ,god sends meat1 and the devil  
sends cooks1 must surely be of native   
parentage1 for of no country is it so   
true as of our own4 ,perhaps1 had it not
 been for the influx among us of ,french
 and ,italian experts1 commencing with  

our ,anglo-,gallic relations under the  
,plantagenets1 and the palmy days of the
 monastic orders1 culinary science would
 not have arrived at the height of      
development which it has attained in the
 face of great obstacles4 ,perchance we 
should not have progressed much beyond  
the pancake and oatmeal period4 ,but    
foreign chefs limit their efforts to    
those who can afford to pay them for    
their services4 ,the middle classes do  
not fall within the pale of their       
beneficence4 ,the poor know them not4   
,so it happens that even as ,i write1   
the greater part of the community not   
only cannot afford professional         
assistance in the preparation of their  
meals1 which goes without saying1 but   
from ignorance expend on their larder   
twice as much as a ,parisian or an      
,italian in the same rank of life1 with 
a very indifferent result4 ,there are   
handbooks of instruction1 it is true1   
both for the middle and for the lower   
classes4 ,these books are at everybody's

 command4 ,but they are either left     
unread1 or if read1 they are not        
understood4 ,i have before me the       
eleventh edition of ,esther ,copley's   
,cottage ,comforts1 #ahcd2 it embraces  
all the points which demand attention   
from such as desire to render a humble  
home comfortable and happy4 ,the leaves 
have never been opened4 ,i will not say1
 ex hoc disce omnes2 but it really      
appears to be the case1 that these works
 are not studied by those for whom they 
are written--not studied1 at all events1
 to advantage4  ,dr4 ,kitchener         
augmented this department of our        
literary stores in #ahba with his       
,cook's ,oracle1 which was very         
successful1 and passed through a series 
of editions4  ,in the preface to that of
 #ahca1 the editor describes the book as
 greatly enlarged and improved1 and     
claims the rapid and steady sale which  
has invariably attended each following  
edition as a proof of the excellence of 
the work4 ,i merely mention this1       

because in ,kitchener's own preface to  
the seventh issue1 l#bmo1 #ahbc1 he     
says3 ,this last time ,i have found     
little to add1 and little to alter4     
,such is human fallibility6  ,the       
,cook's ,oracle was heralded by an      
introduction which very few men could   
have written1 and which represents the  
,doctor's method of letting us know     
that1 if we fancy him an impostor1 we   
are much mistaken4 ,the following       
,recipes1 says he1 are not a mere       
marrowless collection of shreds and     
patches1 of cuttings and pastings--but a
 bon-fide register of practical         
facts--accumulated by a perseverance1   
not to be subdued or evaporated by the  
igniferous ,terrors of a ,roasting ,fire
 in the ,dog-days3--in defiance of the  
odoriferous and calefaceous repellents  
of ,roasting1 ,boiling1--,frying1 and   
,broiling2--moreover1 the author has    
submitted to a labour no preceding      
,cookery-,book-maker1 perhaps1 ever     
attempted to encounter1--having eaten   

each ,receipt before he set it down in  
his ,book4  ,what could critics say1    
after this8 ,one or two large editions  
must have been exhausted before they    
recovered their breath1 and could       
discover how the learned ,kitchener set 
down the receipts which he had          
previously devoured4 ,but the language  
of the ,preface helps to console us for 
the loss of ,johnson's threatened       
undertaking in this direction4  ,dr4    
,kitchener proceeded on different lines 
from an artist who closely followed him 
in the order of publication2 and the two
 did not probably clash in the slightest
 degree4 ,the cooking world was large   
enough to hold ,kitchener and the       
ci-devant chef to the most ,christian   
,king ,louis ,,xvi4 and the ,right      
,honourable the ,earl of ,sefton1 ,louis
 ,eustache ,ude4 ,ude was steward to the
 ,united ,service ,club1 when he printed
 his ,french ,cook in #ahbb4 ,a very    
satisfactory and amusing account of this
 volume occurs in the ,london ,magazine 

for ,january #ahbe4 ,but whatever may be
 thought of ,ude nowadays1 he not only  
exerted considerable influence on the   
higher cookery of his day1 but may      
almost be said to have been the founder 
of the modern ,french school in         
,england4  ,ude became chef at          
,crockford's ,club1 which was built in  
#ahbg1 the year in which his former     
employer1 the ,duke of ,york1 died4     
,there is a story that1 on hearing of   
the ,duke's illness1 ,ude exclaimed1    
,ah1 mon pauvre ,duc1 how much you shall
 miss me where you are gone6  ,about    
#ahbg1 ,mrs4 ,johnstone brought out her 
well-known contribution to this section 
of literature under the title of ,the   
,cook and ,housewife's ,manual1 veiling 
her authorship under the pseudonym of   
,mistress ,margaret ,dods1 the landlady 
in ,scott's tale of ,st4 ,ronan's ,well1
 which appeared three years before      
7#hvo1 #ahbd74  ,mrs4 ,johnstone        
imparted a novel feature to her book by 
investing it with a fictitious history  

and origin1 which1 like most inventions 
of the kind1 is scarcely consistent with
 the circumstances1 however it may tend 
to enliven the monotony of a            
professional publication4  ,after three 
prefaces in the fourth edition before me
 7#hvo1 #ahbi7 we arrive at a heading1  
,institution of the ,cleikum ,club1     
which narrates how ,peregrine           
,touchwood1 ,esquire1 sought to cure his
 ennui and hypochondria by studying     
,apician mysteries2 and it concludes    
with the syllabus of a series of        
thirteen lectures on cookery1 which were
 to be delivered by the said ,esquire4  
,one then enters on the undertaking     
itself1 which can be readily            
distinguished from an ordinary manual by
 a certain literary tone1 which         
certainly betrays a little the hand or  
influence of ,scott4  ,but though the   
present is a ,scottish production1 there
 is no narrow specialism in its scheme4 
,the title-page gives a ,london         
publisher as well as an ,anglo-,athenian

 one1 and ,mrs4 ,johnstone benevolently 
adapted her labours to her countrywomen 
and the unworthier ,southrons alike4  ,i
 imagine1 however1 that of all the      
latter-day master-cooks1 ,alexis ,soyer 
is most remembered4 ,his ,gastronomic   
,regenerator1 a large and handsome      
octavo volume of between #gjj and #hjj  
pages1 published in #ahdf1 lies before  
me4 ,it has portraits of the compiler   
and his wife1 and many other            
illustrations1 and is dedicated to a    
,royal ,duke4 ,it was produced under the
 most influential patronage and         
pressure1 for ,soyer was overwhelmed    
with engagements1 and had scruples      
against appearance in print4 ,he tells  
us that in some library1 to which he    
gained access1 he once found among the  
works of ,shakespeare and other chefs in
 a different department1 a volume with  
the words ,nineteenth ,edition upon it1 
and when he opened it1 he saw to his    
great horror ,a receipt for ,ox-tail    
,soup6 ,why this revelation exercised   

such a terrifying effect he proceeds to 
explain4 ,it was the incongruity of a   
cookery book in the temple of the       
,muses4 ,but nevertheless1 such is the  
frailty of our nature1 that he          
gradually1 on regaining his composure1  
and at such leisure intervals as he     
could command1 prepared the ,gastronomic
 ,regenerator1 in which he eschewed all 
superfluous ornaments of diction1 and   
studied a simplicity of style germane to
 the subject2 perchance he had looked   
into ,kitchener's ,preface4 ,he lets us 
know that he had made collections of the
 same kind at an earlier period of his  
career1 but had destroyed them1 partly  
owing to his arduous duties at the      
,reform ,club1 and partly to the        
depressing influence of the nineteenth  
edition of somebody else's cookery      
book--probably1 by the way1 ,ude's4 ,the
 present work occupied some ten months1 
and was prepared amid the most          
stupendous interruptions from fair      
visitors to the ,club 7#ae1jjj71 dinners

 for the members and their friends      
7#be1jjj71 dinner parties of importance 
7#ch71 and the meals for the staff      
7#fj74 ,he gives a total of #gj1jjj     
dishes2 but it is not entirely clear    
whether these refer to the #ch dinner   
parties of importance1 or to the #be1jjj
 of inferior note1 or to both4 ,the     
feeling of dismay at the nineteenth     
edition of somebody must have been      
sincere1 for he winds up his preface    
with an adjuration to his readers 7whom1
 in the ,directions for ,carving1 he    
does not style ,gentle1 or ,learned1 or 
,worshipful1 but ,,honourable7 not to   
place his labours on the same shelf with
 ,paradise ,lost4  ,soyer had also      
perhaps certain misgivings touching too 
close an approximation to other chefs   
besides ,milton and ,shakespeare1 for he
 refers to the profound ideas of ,locke1
 to which he was introduced1 to his vast
 discomfort1 in a most superb library in
 the midst of a splendid baronial hall4 
,but the library of the ,reform ,club   

probably contained all this             
heterogeneous learning4 ,does the       
,gastronomic ,regenerator1 out of       
respect to the fastidious sentiments of 
its author1 occupy a separate apartment 
in that institution with a separate     
curator8  ,it seems only the other day  
to me1 that ,soyer took ,gore ,lodge1   
and seemed in a fair way to make his    
removal from the ,reform ,club a        
prosperous venture4 ,but he lost his    
wife1 and was unfortunate in other ways1
 and the end was very sad indeed4 ,soyez
 tranquille1 was the epitaph proposed at
 the time by some unsentimental         
wagforpoor ,madame ,soyer2 it soon      
served for them both4  ,but nearly      
concurrent with ,soyer's book appeared  
one of humble pretensions1 yet          
remarkable for its lucidity and         
precision1 ,eliza ,acton's ,modern      
,cookery in all its ,branches reduced to
 an easy practice1 #afmo1 #ahde4 ,i have
 heard this little volume highly        
commended by competent judges as exactly

 what it professes to be2 and the       
quantities in the receipts are          
particularly reliable4  ,the first essay
 to bring into favourable notice the    
produce of ,colonial cattle was1 so far 
as ,i can collect1 a volume published in
 #ahgb1 and called ,receipts for        
,cooking ,australian ,meat1 with        
,directions for preparing ,sauces       
suitable for the same4 ,this still      
remains a vexed question2 but the       
consumption of the meat is undoubtedly  
on the increase1 and will continue to   
be1 till the population of ,australasia 
equalises supply and demand4            
,,cookery ,,books4  ,,part ,,iv4        
,besides the authorities for this branch
 of the inquiry already cited1 there are
 a few others1 which it may assist the  
student to set down herewith3--  #a4 ,a 
,collection of ,ordinances and          
,regulations for the ,government of the 
,royal ,household 7,edward ,,iii4 to    
,william and ,mary74 #dto1 #agij4  #b4  
,the book of ,nurture4 ,by ,hugh        

,rhodes1 of the ,king's ,chapel4        
,printed in the time of ,henry ,,viii4  
by ,john ,redman4 #dto4  #c4 ,a         
,breviate touching the ,order and       
,government of the ,house of a          
,nobleman4 #afje4 ,archaeologia1 xiii4  
#d4 ,orders made by ,henry1 ,prince of  
,wales1 respecting his ,household4      
#afaj4 ,archaeologia1 xiv4  #e4 ,the    
,school of ,good ,manners4 ,by ,william 
,phiston or ,fiston4 #hvo1 #afji4  #f4  
,the ,school of ,virtue1 the ,second    
,part4 ,by ,richard ,west4 #abmo1 #afai4
  #g4 ,the ,school of ,grace2 or1 ,a    
,book of ,nurture4 ,by ,john ,hart4     
#abmo4 7,about #afhj47  #h4 ,england's  
,newest ,way in all ,sorts of ,cookery4 
,by ,henry ,howard1 ,free ,cook of      
,london4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agjc4  #i4 ,a  
,collection of above three hundred      
,receipts in ,cookery1 ,physick and     
,surgery1 for the use of all ,good      
,wives1 ,tender ,mothers1 and ,careful  
,nurses4 ,by several ,hands4 ,the second
 edition1 to which is added a second    

part4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agbi4 ,fifth      
edition1 #hvo1 ,london1 #agcd4  #aj4    
,the ,compleat ,city and ,country ,cook4
 ,by ,charles ,carter4 #hvo1 ,london1   
#agcb4  #aa4 ,the ,compleat ,housewife3 
or1 ,accomplish'd ,gentlewomans         
,companion3 ,being a collection of      
upwards of ,five ,hundred of the most   
approved ,receipts in ,cookery1 ,pastry1
 ,confectionery1 ,preserving1 ,pickles1 
,cakes1 ,creams1 ,jellies1 ,made ,wines1
 ,cordials4 ,with ,copper ,plates4444   
,and also ,bills of ,fare for every     
month in the year4444 ,by ,e4 ,smith4   
,seventh edition1 with very large       
additions1 near fifty ,receipts being   
communicated just before the author's   
death4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agcf4 ,eleventh  
edition4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agdb4  #ab4    
,the ,complete ,family ,piece3 ,a very  
,choice ,collection of ,receipts in444  
,cookery4 ,seventh ,edition4 #hvo1      
,london1 #agcg4  #ac4 ,the ,modern      
,cook4 ,by ,vincent ,la ,chapelle1 cook 
to the ,prince of ,orange4 ,third       

edition4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agdd4  #ad4 ,a 
,treatise of all ,sorts of ,foods1 both 
,animal and ,vegetable1 and also of     
,drinkables1 written originally in      
,french by the ,learned ,m4,l4 ,lemery4 
,translated by ,d4 ,hay1 ,m4,d4 #hvo1   
,london1 #agde4  #ae4 ,the              
,housekeeper's ,pocket-,book4 ,by ,sarah
 ,harrison4 ,sixth edition1 #b vols4    
#abmo1 ,london1 #agee4  #af4 ,professed 
,cookery4 ,by ,ann ,cook4 ,third        
edition4 #hvo1 ,london 7about #agfj74   
#ag4 ,the ,experienced ,english         
,housekeeper4 ,by ,elizabeth ,raffald4  
,second edition4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agga4  
,there were an eighth1 tenth1 and       
eleventh editions1 and two others1      
described as ,new ,editions1 between    
this date and #ahjf4 ,the compiler      
dedicates her book to ,the honourable   
,lady ,elizabeth ,warburton1 in whose   
service she had been4 ,she mentions that
 the volume was published by            
subscription1 and that she had obtained 
eight hundred names4 ,in the preface    

,mrs4 ,raffald begins by observing3     
,when ,i reflect upon the number of     
books already in print upon this        
subject1 and with what contempt they are
 read1 ,i cannot but be apprehensive    
that this may meet the same fate with   
some who will censure before they either
 see it or try its value4 ,she concludes
 by saying that she had not meddled with
 physical receipts1 leaving them to the 
physician's superior judgment1 whose    
proper province they are4 ,the author of
 the ,experienced ,housekeeper tells us 
that she had not only filled that post  
in noble families during fifteen years1 
but had travelled with her employers1   
and so widened her sphere of            
observation4  #ah4 ,the ,young ,ladies' 
,guide in the ,art of ,cookery4 ,by     
,elizabeth ,marshall4 #hvo1 ,newcastle1 
#aggg4  #ai4 ,english ,housewifery      
,exhibited in above #dej ,receipts4 ,by 
,elizabeth ,moxon4 ,fourth edition4     
#hvo1 ,leeds 7about #aghj74  #bj4 ,the  
,practice of ,modern ,cookery4 ,by      

,george ,dalrymple4 #hvo1 ,edinburgh1   
#agha4  #ba4 ,the ,ladies' ,assistant   
for ,regulating and ,supplying the      
,table4 ,by ,charlotte ,mason4 #hvo1    
,london1 #aghf4  #bb4 ,the ,compleat    
,family ,companion4 #hvo1 ,london1 #aghg
 7874  #bc4 ,the ,honours of the ,table2
 or1 ,rules for ,behaviour during       
,meals1 with the whole ,art of          
,carving4444 ,by the ,author of         
,principles of ,politeness1 etc4        
7,trusler74 ,second edition4 ,woodcuts  
by ,bewick4 #abmo1 ,london1 #agia4  #bd4
 ,the ,french ,family ,cook3 being a    
complete system of ,french ,cookery4    
,from the ,french4 #hvo1 ,london1 #agic4
  #be4 ,the ,british ,housewife2 or1    
,the ,cook's1 ,housekeeper's1 and       
,gardener's ,companion4 ,by ,martha     
,bradley4 #hvo4  #bf4 ,cookery and      
,pastry4 ,by ,mrs4 ,macivey4 ,new       
edition1 #abmo1 ,edinburgh1 #ahjj4  #bg4
 ,the ,london ,art of ,cookery4 ,by     
,john ,farley4 ,fourth edition4 #hvo1   
,london1 #ahjg4  #bh4 ,the ,school of   

,good ,living2 or1 ,a ,literary and     
,historical ,essay on the ,european     
,kitchen1 beginning with ,cadmus1 the   
,cook and ,king1 and concluding with the
 ,union of ,cookery and ,chymistry4 #ab 
mo1 ,london1 #ahjd4  #bi4 ,culina       
,famulatur ,medicina4 ,receipts in      
,modern ,cookery1 with a ,medical       
,commentary by ,ignotus1 and revised by 
,a4 ,hunter1 ,m4,d41 ,f4,a4,s4,l4 and   
,e4 ,fourth edition1 #abmo1 ,york1      
#ahjf4  #cj4 ,the ,universal ,cook4 ,by 
,francis ,collingwood and ,t4 ,woollams4
 ,fourth edition4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahjf4 
#ca4 ,a ,complete ,system of ,cookery4  
,by ,john ,simpson1 ,cook4 #hvo1        
,london1 #ahjf4 ,again1 #hvo1 ,london1  
#ahaf4  #cb4 ,simpson's ,cookery        
,improved and ,modernised4 ,by ,h4,w4   
,brand4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahcd4  #cc4 ,the
 ,imperial and ,royal ,cook4 ,by        
,frederick ,nutt1 ,esquire1 ,author of  
the ,complete ,confectioner4 #hvo1      
,london1 #ahji4  #cd4 ,the              
,housekeeper's ,domestic ,library4 ,by  

,charles ,millington4 #hvo1 ,london1    
#ahaj4  #ce4 ,the ,housekeeper's        
,instructor2 or1 ,universal ,family     
,book4 ,by ,w4,a4 ,henderson4           
,seventeenth edition4 ,by ,s4,c4        
,schrubbelie1 ,cook to the ,albany1     
,london4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahaa4  #cf4    
,the ,art of ,preserving all kinds of   
animal and vegetable ,substances for    
several years4 ,by ,m4 ,appert4         
,translated from the ,french4 ,second   
edition4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahab4 ,with a  
folding ,plate4  #cg4 ,domestic ,economy
 and ,cookery1 for ,rich and ,poor4 ,by 
a ,lady4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahbg4 ,in the  
preface the author apprises us that a   
long residence abroad had enabled her to
 become a mistress of the details of    
foreign ,european cookery2 but she adds3
 ,the mulakatanies and curries of       
,india2 the sweet pillaus1 yahourt1 and 
cold soups of ,persia2 the cubbubs1     
sweet yaughs and sherbets of ,egypt2 the
 cold soups and mixed meats of ,russia1 
the cuscussous and honeyed paste of     

,africa1 have been inserted with the    
view of introducing a less expensive and
 more wholesome and a more delicate mode
 of cookery4  #ch4 ,apician ,morsels2   
or1 ,tales of the ,table1 ,kitchen1 and 
,larder4 ,by ,dick ,humelbergius        
,secundus4 #hvo1 ,london1 #ahcd4  #ci4  
,cottage ,economy and ,cookery4 #hvo1   
,london1 #ahdd4;,footnote3 ,reprinted   
from the ,journal of the ,agricultural  
,society1 #ahdc1 vol4 iii1 part ,i4     
,,diet ,,of ,,the ,,yeoman ,,and ,,the  
,,poor4   ,the staple food among the    
lower orders in ,anglo-,saxon and the   
immediately succeeding times was        
doubtless bread1 butter1 and cheese1 the
 aliment which goes so far even yet to  
support our rural population1 with      
vegetables and fruit1 and occasional    
allowances of salted bacon and pancakes1
 beef1 or fish4 ,the meat was usually   
boiled in a kettle suspended on a tripod
 ,footnote3 ,the tripod is still        
employed in many parts of the country   
for a similar purpose over a wood-fire1 

such as is used only now1 in an improved
 shape1 for fish and soup4   ,the kettle
 which is mentioned1 as we observe1 in  
the tale of ,tom ,thumb1 was the        
universal vessel for boiling purposes   
,footnote3 ,an inverted kettle was the  
earliest type of the diving-bell1 and   
the bacon-house 7or larder71 so called  
from the preponderance of that sort of  
store over the rest1 was the warehouse  
for the winter stock of provisions      
,footnote3 ,what is called in some      
places the keeping-room also            
accommodated flitches on the walls1 and 
hams ranged along the beams overhead2   
and it served at the same time for a    
best parlour4 ,the fondness for         
condiments1 especially garlic and       
pepper1 among the higher orders1        
possibly served to render the coarser   
nourishment of the poor more savoury and
 flavorous4 ,it is interesting to       
remark1 says ,mr4 ,wright ,footnote3    
,domestic ,manners and ,sentiments1     
#ahfb1 p4 #ia1 that the articles just   

mentioned 7bread1 butter1 and cheese7   
have preserved their ,anglo-,saxon names
 to the present time1 while all kinds of
 meat--beef1 veal1 mutton1 pork1 even   
bacon--have retained only the names     
given to them by the ,normans2 which    
seems to imply that flesh-meat was not  
in general use for food among the lower 
classes of society4  ,in ,malory's      
compilation on the adventures of ,king  
,arthur and his knights1 contemporary   
with the ,book of ,st4 ,alban's1 we are 
expressly informed in the sixth chapter1
 how the ,king made a great feast at    
,caerleon in ,wales2 but we are left in 
ignorance of its character4 ,the chief  
importance of details in this case would
 have been the excessive probability    
that ,malory would have described an    
entertainment consonant with the usage  
of his own day1 although at no period of
 early history was there ever so large  
an assemblage of guests at one time as  
met1 according to the fable1 to do      
honour to ,arthur4  ,in the tenth       

century ,colloquy of ,archbishop        
,alfric1 the boy is made to say that he 
is too young to eat meat1 but subsists  
on cabbages1 eggs1 fish1 cheese1 butter1
 beans1 and other things1 according to  
circumstances2 so that a vegetable diet 
was perhaps commoner in those days even 
among the middle classes than at        
present4 ,this youth1 when he is asked  
what he drinks1 replies1 water1 or ale  
if he can get it4 ,the dish so deftly   
constructed by ,king ,arthur1 according 
to one of his numerous biographers1     
exhibited that wedlock of fruit with    
animal matter--fat and plums--which we  
post-,arthurians eye with a certain     
fastidious repugnance1 but which1       
notwithstanding1 lingered on to the     
,elizabethan or ,jacobaean era--nay1 did
 not make the gorge of our grandsires   
turn rebellious4 ,it survives among     
ourselves only in the modified shape of 
such accessories as currant jelly and   
apple sauce4  ,but the nursery rhyme    
about ,arthur and the bag-pudding of    

barley meal with raisins and meat has a 
documentary worth for us beyond the     
shadowy recital of the banquet at       
,caerleon1 for1 mutato nomine1 it is the
 description of a favourite article of  
popular diet in the fifteenth and       
sixteenth centuries4 ,the narrative of  
,mrs4 ,thumb and her pudding is more    
circumstantial than that of ,king       
,alfred and the housewife2 and if the   
tradition is worthless1 it serves us so 
far1 that it faithfully portrays a      
favourite item of rustic consumption in 
old times4 ,we are told that the pudding
 was made in a bowl1 and that it was    
chiefly composed of the flesh and blood 
of a newly-killed hog1 laid in batter2  
and then1 when all was ready1 the bag   
with all its savoury burden was put into
 a kettle4  ,as we are already on the   
threshold of legend and myth1 we may    
linger there a moment to recall to      
memory the resemblance between the      
description of this piece of handiwork  
and that ascribed to good ,king ,arthur1

 who lived in days when monarchs were   
their own chefs1 for the ,arthurian dish
 was also prepared in a bag1 and        
consisted1 according to the ditty1 of   
barley-meal and fat4 ,soberly speaking1 
the two accounts belong1 maybe1 to      
something like the same epoch in the    
annals of gastronomy2 and a large       
pudding was1 for a vast length of time1 
no doubt1 a prevailing piece de         
rsistance in all frugal ,british        
households4 ,it was the culinary        
forefather of toad-in-the-hole1 hot-pot1
 ,irish stew1 and of that devil-dreaded 
,cornish pasty4 ,the ,elizabethan       
transmitters of these two ,apician      
nuggets possibly antedated the popular  
institution of the bag-pudding2 but the 
ancientest gastronomical records testify
 to the happy introduction of the       
frying-pan about the era when we were   
under ,alfred's fatherly sway4 ,it may  
have even preceded the grill1 just as   
the fork lagged behind the spoon1 from  
which it is a seeming evolution4 ,that  

no reader may doubt the fact1 that      
,tom's mother made the pudding1 and that
 ,tom held the candle1 we refer to the  
old edition of this choice piece of     
chapman's ware1 where an accurate       
drawing of ,mrs4 ,thumb1 and the board1 
and the bowl1 and ,tom with the candle1 
may be inspected4 ,the prima stamina of 
the modern fruit-pudding really appear  
to be found in the ancient bag-pudding1 
of which ,tom ,thumb had such excellent 
reason to be acquainted with the        
contents4 ,the mode of construction was 
similar1 and both were boiled in a      
cloth4 ,the material and subsidiary     
treatment of course differed2 but it is 
curious that no other country possesses 
either the tart or the pudding1 as we   
understand them1 and as the latter has  
perhaps been developed from the dish1 of
 the making of which ,tom ,thumb was an 
eye-witness to his sorrow1 so the       
covered fruit tart may not improbably be
 an outgrowth from the old coffin pasty 
of venison or game1 with the            

superaddition of a dish for the safe    
custody of the juice4  ,another rather  
prominent factor in the diet of the poor
 classes1 not only in ,scotland but in  
the ,north of ,england1 was oatmeal     
variously prepared4 ,one very favourable
 and palatable way was by grinding the  
meal a second time as fine as flour1    
boiling it1 and then serving it with hot
 milk or treacle4 ,there is something in
 the nature of this food so peculiarly  
satisfying and supporting1 that it seems
 to have been destined to become the    
staple nourishment of a poor population 
in a cold and bracing climate4 ,the     
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries      
unquestionably saw a great advance in   
the mystery of cookery and in the       
diversity of dishes1 and the author of  
,piers of ,fulham complains1 that men   
were no longer satisfied with brawn and 
powdered beef1 which he terms store of  
house1 but would have venison1 wild     
fowl1 and heronshaw2 and men of simple  
estate1 says he1 will have partridges   

and plovers1 when lords lack4 ,he adds  
quaintly3    ,a mallard of the dunghill 
is good enough for me1   ,with pleasant 
pickle1 or it is else poison4 pardy4    
,we have for our purpose a very         
serviceable relic of the old time1      
called ,a ,merry ,jest1 how the         
,ploughman learned his ,paternoster4    
,the scene purports to be laid in       
,france1 and the general outline may    
have been taken from the ,french2 but it
 is substantially ,english1 with        
allusions to ,kent1 ,robin ,hood1 and so
 forth1 and it certainly illustrates the
 theme upon which we are4 ,this         
ploughman was in fact a farmer or       
husbandman1 and the account of his      
dwelling and garden-stuff is very       
interesting4 ,we are told that his      
hall-roof was full of bacon-flitches1   
and his store-room of eggs1 butter1 and 
cheese4 ,he had plenty of malt to make  
good ale--    ,and ,martlemas beef to   
him was not dainty2   ,onions and       
,garlic had he enough1   ,and good      

cream1 and milk of the cow4  ,but in    
,vox ,populi ,vox ,dei1 written about   
#aedg1 and therefore apparently not from
 the pen of ,skelton1 who died in #aebi1
 it is said that the price of an ox had 
risen to four pounds1 and a sheep       
without the wool to twelve shillings and
 upwards1 so that the poor man could    
seldom afford to have meat at his table4
 ,this evil the writer ascribes to the  
exactions of the landlord and the       
lawyer4 ,the former charged too highly  
for his pastures1 and the latter        
probably advanced money on terms4 ,the  
old poem depicts in sad colours the     
condition of the yeoman at the same     
period1 that had had once plenty of cows
 and cream1 butter1 eggs1 cheese1 and   
honey2 all which had gone to enrich     
upstarts who throve by casting-counters 
and their pens4 ,the story of the ,king 
and a poor ,northern ,man1 #afdj1 also  
turns upon the tyranny of the lawyers   
over ignorant clients4  ,the            
,serving-man's ,comfort1 #aeih1 draws a 

somewhat gloomy picture of the times4   
,the prices of all provisions1 among    
other points1 had trebled since the good
 old days1 when his father and          
grandfather kept house4 ,then people    
could buy an ox for #bjs41 a sheep for  
#cs41 a calf for #bs41 a goose for      
#f;d41 a capon for #d;d41 a hen for     
#b;d41 a pig for the same1 and all other
 household provisions at a like rate4   
,the reason given by the farmer was that
 the landlords had raised their rent4   
,let them have the land on the old      
terms1 and the former prices would pay4 
,this plea and demand have come back    
home to us in #ahhf4  ,the tradition is1
 that when ,queen ,elizabeth received   
the intelligence of the defeat of the   
,armada1 she was dining off a           
goose--doubtless about eleven o'clock in
 the morning4 ,it was an anxious moment1
 and perhaps her majesty for the moment 
had thrown ceremony somewhat aside1 and 
was keeping secret house4  ,the author  
of the ,serving-man's ,comfort1 #aeih1  

also laments the decay of hospitality4  
,where1 he inquires are the great chines
 of stalled beef1 the great1 black jacks
 of double beer1 the long hall-tables   
fully furnished with good victuals8 ,but
 he seems to have been a stickler for   
the solid fare most in vogue1 according 
to his complaint1 formerly2 and he      
represents to us that in lieu of it one 
had to put up with goose-giblets1 pigs' 
pettitoes1 and so many other boiled     
meats1 forced meats1 and made dishes4   
,things were hardly so very bad1        
however1 if1 as he states previously1   
the curtailment of the expenditure on   
the table still left1 as a medium       
repast1 two or three dishes1 with fruit 
and cheese after4 ,the black jack here  
mentioned was not discarded till        
comparatively modern days4 ,nares1 who  
published his ,glossary in #ahbb1 states
 that he recollects them in use4  ,a    
meal's meat twice a week1 worth a groat1
 is mentioned as the farm servant's     
portion in ,civil and ,uncivil ,life1   

#aegi4 ,in ,a ,piece of ,friar ,bacon's 
,brasen-heads ,prophesie1 a unique poem1
 #afjd1 we read that at that time a     
cheesecake and a pie were held good     
country meat4 ,the author adds3    ,ale 
and ,spice1 and ,curdes and ,creame1    
,would make a ,scholler make a ,theame4 
,breton1 in his ,fantasticks1 #afbf1    
observes3 ,milk1 ,butter and ,cheese are
 the labourers dyet2 and a pot of good  
,beer quickens his spirits4  ,norfolk   
dumplings were celebrated in ,john ,day 
the playwright's time4 ,he has put into 
the mouth of his east-country yeoman's  
son1 ,tom ,strowd1 in ,the ,blind       
,beggar of ,bethnal ,green1 written long
 before it was printed in #afei1 the    
following3--,as ,god mend me1 and ere   
thou com'st into ,norfolk1 ,i'll give   
thee as good a dish of ,norfolk         
dumplings as ere thou laydst thy lips   
to2 and in another passage of the same  
drama1 where ,swash's shirt has been    
stolen1 while he is in bed1 he describes
 himself as naked as your ,norfolk      

dumplin4 ,in the play just quoted1 ,old 
,strowd1 a ,norfolk yeoman1 speaks of   
his contentment with good beef1 ,norfolk
 bread1 and country home-brewed drink2  
and in the ,city ,madam1 #afeh1         
,holdfast tells us that before his      
master got an estate1 his family fed on 
roots and livers1 and necks of beef on  
,sundays4 ,i cite these as traits of the
 kind of table kept by the lower grades 
of ,english society in the seventeenth  
century4     ,,meats ,,and ,,drinks4    
,slender3 ,you are afraid1 if you see   
the bear loose1 are you not8    ,anne3  
,aye1 indeed1 ,sir    ,slender3 ,that's 
meat and drink to me1 now4    ,,merry   
,,wives ,,of ,,windsor1 i1 #a4   ,the   
manufacture of wine and of fruit        
preserves1 and many of the processes of 
cookery1 could have scarcely been       
accomplished without a large and        
constant supply of sugar4  ,the exact   
date of the first introduction of the   
latter into ,england continues to be a  
matter of uncertainty4 ,it was clearly  

very scarce1 and doubtless equally dear1
 when1 in #abbf1 ,henry ,,iii4 asked the
 ,mayor of ,winchester to procure him   
three pounds of ,alexandria sugar1 if so
 much could be got1 and also some rose  
and violet-coloured sugar2 nor had it   
apparently grown much more plentiful    
when the same prince ordered the        
sheriffs of ,london to send him four    
loaves of sugar to ,woodstock4 ,but it  
soon made its way into the ,english     
homes1 and before the end of the        
thirteenth century it could be procured 
even in remote provincial towns4 ,it was
 sold either by the loaf or the pound4  
,it was still exorbitantly high in      
price1 varying from eighteen pence to   
three shillings a pound of coeval       
currency2 and it was retailed by the    
spice-dealers4  ,in ,russell's ,book of 
,nurture1 composed about #adej1 it      
occurs as an ingredient in hippocras2   
and one collects from a letter sent by  
,sir ,edward ,wotton to ,lord ,cobham   
from ,calais in #aedf1 that at that time

 the quantities imported were larger1   
and the price reduced2 for ,wotton      
advises his correspondent of a          
consignment of five-and-twenty loaves at
 six shillings the loaf4 ,one loaf was  
equal to ten pounds2 this brought the   
commodity down to eight pence a pound of
 fifteenth century money4  ,the sugar of
 ,cyprus was also highly esteemed2 that 
of ,bezi1 in the ,straits of ,sunda1 was
 the most plentiful2 but the ,west      
,indian produce1 as well as that of     
,mauritius1 ,madeira1 and other         
cane-growing countries1 was unknown4    
,of bread1 the fifteenth century had    
several descriptions in use3 pain-main  
or bread of very fine flour1            
wheat-bread1 barley-meal bread1         
bran-bread1 bean-bread1 pease-bread1    
oat-bread or oat-cakes1 hard-bread1 and 
unleavened bread4 ,the poor often used a
 mixture of rye1 lentils1 and oatmeal1  
varied according to the season and      
district4  ,the author of ,the          
,serving-man's ,comfort1 #aeih1 however1

 seems to say that it was counted by the
 poorer sort at that time a hardship    
only to be tolerated in a dear year to  
mix beans and peas with their corn1 and 
he adds3 ,so must ,i yield you a loaf of
 coarse cockle1 having no acquaintance  
with coin to buy corn4  ,in a ,nominale 
of this period mention is made of oblys1
 or small round loaves1 perhaps like the
 old-fashioned turnover2 and we come    
across the explicit phrase1 a loaf of   
bread1 for the first time1 a pictorial  
vocabulary of the period even furnishing
 us with a representation of its usual  
form4  ,nor were the good folks of those
 days without their simnels1 cracknels1 
and other sorts of cakes for the table1 
among which in the wastel we recognise  
the equivalent of the modern ,french    
gteau4  ,besides march-pain or          
pain-main1 and pain-puff1 two sorts     
baked on special occasions1 and rather  
entering into the class of              
confectionery1 our better-to-do         
ancestors usually employed three        

descriptions of bread3 manchete for the 
master's table1 made of fine boulted    
flour2 chete1 of unboulted flour1 but   
not mixed with any coarser ingredient2  
and brown-bread1 composed of flour and  
rye meal1 and known as maslin           
7mystelon74  ,a bushel of wheat1 in a   
romance of the thirteenth century1 is   
estimated to produce twenty loaves2 but 
the statement is obviously to be taken  
with allowance4 ,the manchet was        
sometimes thought to be sufficient      
without butter1 as we now eat a scone4  
,in the ,conceits of ,old ,hobson1      
#afjg1 the worthy haberdasher of the    
,poultry gives some friends what is     
facetiously described as a light        
banquet--a cup of wine and a manchet of 
bread on a trencher for each guest1 in  
an apartment illuminated with five      
hundred candles4  ,there is no pictorial
 record of the mode in which the early  
baker worked here1 analogous to that    
which ,lacroix supplies of his sixteenth
 century confrre4 ,the latter is brought

 vividly enough before us in a copy of  
one of ,jost ,amman's engravings1 and we
 perceive the bakery and its tenants3   
one 7apparently a female7 kneading the  
dough in a trough at the farther end1 a 
second by a roasting fire1 with a long  
ladle or peel in his hand1 putting the  
loaf on the oven1 and a third1 who is a 
woman1 leaving the place with two       
baskets of bread1 one on her head and   
one on her arm2 the baker himself is    
almost naked1 like the operatives in a  
modern iron furnace4 ,the artist has    
skilfully realised the oppressive and   
enervating atmosphere2 and it was till  
lately quite usual to see in the side   
streets of ,paris in the early morning  
the boulanger at work precisely in the  
same informal costume4 ,so tenacious is 
usage1 and so unchanging many of the    
conditions of life4  ,the ,anglo-,norman
 used butter where his ,italian         
contemporary used oil4 ,but it is       
doubtful whether before the ,conquest   
our ancestors were commonly acquainted  

with butter4  ,the early cook understood
 the art of glazing with yolk of egg1   
and termed it endoring1 and not less    
well that of presenting dishes under    
names calculated to mislead the intended
 partaker1 as where we find a receipt   
given for pome de oringe1 which turns   
out to be a preparation of liver of pork
 with herbs and condiments1 served up in
 the form of glazed force-meat balls4   
,venison was salted in troughs4 ,in the 
tale of ,the ,king and the ,hermit1 the 
latter exhibits to his unknown visitor  
his stock of preserved venison from the 
deer1 which he had shot in the forest4  
,the mushroom1 of which so many         
varieties are at present recognised by  
botanists1 seems1 from the testimony of 
an ,italian1 ,giacomo ,castelvetri1 who 
was in ,london in #afad1 and to whom ,i 
have already referred1 to have been     
scarcely known here at that time4 ,i    
cannot say1 of course1 how far          
,castelvetri may have prosecuted his    
inquiries1 though he certainly leaves   

the impression of having been           
intelligently observant2 or whether he  
includes in this observation the edible 
toadstools2 but even now much           
unreasonable prejudice exists as to the 
latter1 and very limited use is made of 
any but two or three familiar sorts of  
the mushroom itself4 ,it is a pity that 
this misconception should not be        
dissipated4  ,caviary had been brought  
into ,england1 probably from ,russia1 at
 the commencement of the seventeenth    
century1 perhaps sooner4 ,in #afah1 ,the
 ,court and ,country1 by ,breton1 seems 
to represent it as an article of diet   
which was little known1 and not much    
relished2 for a great lady had sent the 
writer's father a little barrel of it1  
and it was no sooner opened than it was 
fastened down again1 to be returned to  
the donor with a respectful message that
 her servant had black soap enough      
already4  ,in the time of ,james ,i4 the
 ancient bill of fare had been shorn of 
many of its coarser features1 so far as 

fish was concerned2 and the author of   
,the ,court and ,country tells a story  
to shew that porpoise-pie was a dish    
which not even a dog would eat4  ,the   
times had indeed changed1 since a ,king 
and a ,cardinal-archbishop judged this  
warm-blooded sea-dweller a fit dish for 
the most select company4  ,it is not a  
despicable or very ascetic regimen which
 ,stevenson lays before us under ,april 
in his reproduction of ,breton's        
,fantasticks1 #afbf1 under the title of 
the ,twelve ,months1 #affa3--,the       
wholesome dyet that breeds good sanguine
 juyce1 such as pullets1 capons1 sucking
 veal1 beef not above three years ,old1 
a draught of morning milk fasting from  
the cow2 grapes1 raysons1 and figs be   
good before meat2 ,rice with ,almond    
,milk1 birds of the ,field1 ,peasants   
and ,partridges1 and fishes of stony    
rivers1 ,hen eggs potcht1 and such like4
  ,under ,may he furnishes us with a    
second and not less appetising menu3--  
,butter and sage are now the wholesome  

,breakfast1 but fresh cheese and cream  
are meat for a dainty mouth2 the early  
,peascods and ,strawberries want no     
price with great ,bellies2 but the      
,chicken and the ,duck are fatted for   
the ,market2 the sucking ,rabbet is     
frequently taken in the ,nest1 and many 
a ,gosling never lives to be a ,goose4  
,even so late as the succeeding reign1  
,breton speaks of the good cheer at     
,christmas1 and of the cook1 if he lacks
 not wit1 sweetly licking his fingers4  
,the storage of liquids became a        
difficult problem where1 as among our   
ancestors1 glazed pottery was long      
unknown2 and more especially with regard
 to the supply of water in dry seasons4 
,but so far as milk was concerned1 the  
daily yield probably seldom exceeded the
 consumption2 and among the inhabitants 
further north and east1 who1 as ,caesar 
says1 partook also of flesh1 and did not
 sow grain--in other words1 were less   
vegetarian in their habits from the more
 exhausting nature of the climate--the  

consideration might be less urgent4 ,it 
is open to doubt if1 even in those      
primitive times1 the supply of a        
national want lagged far behind the     
demand4  ,the list of wines which the   
,king of ,hungary proposed to have at   
the wedding of his daughter1 in ,the    
,squire of ,low ,degree1 is worth       
consulting4 ,harrison1 in his           
,description of ,england1 #aehf1 speaks 
of thirty different kinds of superior   
vintages and fifty-six of commoner or   
weaker kinds4 ,but the same wine was    
perhaps known under more than one name4 
,romney or ,rumney1 a ,hungarian growth1
 ,malmsey from the ,peloponnesus1 and   
,hippocras were favourites1 and the     
last-named was kept as late as the last 
century in the buttery of ,st4 ,john's  
,college1 ,cambridge1 for use during the
 ,christmas festivities4 ,but ,france1  
,spain1 ,greece1 almost all countries1  
contributed to furnish the ancient      
wine-cellar1 and gratify the variety of 
taste among connoisseurs2 and for such  

as had not the means to purchase foreign
 productions1 the juice of the ,english 
grape1 either alone or mingled with     
honey and spice1 furnished a not        
unpalatable and not very potent         
stimulant4 ,as claret and hock with us1 
so anciently ,bastard and ,piment were  
understood in a generic sense1 the      
former for any mixed wine1 the latter   
for one seasoned with spice4  ,in ,colin
 ,blobol's ,testament1 a whimsical      
production of the fifteenth century1    
,tent and ,valencia wines are mentioned1
 with wine of ,languedoc and ,orleans4  
,but perhaps it will be best to cite the
 passage3--  ,i trow there shall be an  
honest fellowship1 save first shall they
 of ale have new backbones4 ,with strong
 ale brewed in vats and in tuns2 ,ping1 
,drangollie1 and the ,draget fine1      
,mead1 ,mattebru1 and the ,metheling4   
,red wine1 the claret and the white1    
with ,tent and ,alicant1 in whom ,i     
delight4 ,wine of ,languedoc and of     
,orleans thereto3 ,single beer1 and     

other that is double3 ,spruce beer1 and 
the beer of ,hamburgh3 ,malmsey1 ,tires1
 and ,romany4  ,but some of the         
varieties are hidden under obscure      
names4 ,we recognise ,muscadel1 ,rhine  
wine1 ,bastard1 ,hippocras1 however4 ,on
 the #ajth of ,december1 #adig1 ,piers  
,barber received six shillings and eight
 pence1 according to the ,privy ,purse  
,expences of ,henry ,,vii41 for spice   
for ypocras4  ,metheglin and beer of    
some kind appear to be the most ancient 
liquors of which there are any vestiges 
among the ,britons4 ,ferguson1 in his   
,essay ,on the ,formation of the        
,palate1 states that they are described 
by a ,greek traveller1 who visited the  
south of ,britain in the fourth century 
,b4,c4 ,this informant describes        
metheglin as composed of wheat and honey
 7of course mixed with water71 and the  
beer as being of sufficient strength to 
injure the nerves and cause head-ache4  
,worlidge1 in his ,vinetum ,britannicum1
 #afgf1 gives us receipts for metheglin 

and birch wine4 ,breton1 in his         
,fantasticks1 #afbf1 under ,january1    
recommends a draught of ale and wormwood
 wine mixed in a morning to comfort the 
heart1 scour the maw1 and fulfil other  
beneficial offices4  ,the ,english beer 
of by-gone times underwent many         
vicissitudes1 and it was long before our
 ancestors conquered their dislike to   
the bitter hop1 after having been       
accustomed to a thick1 sweet liquor of  
which the modern ,kentish ale is in some
 measure a survival4 ,beer was made from
 a variety of grain2 oats were most     
commonly employed4 ,in ,france1 they    
resorted even to vetches1 lentils1 rye1 
and darnel4 ,but as a rule it was a     
poor1 thin drink which resulted from the
 operation1 and the monks of            
,glastonbury deemed themselves fortunate
 in being allowed by their abbot to put 
a load of oats into the vat to improve  
the quality of the beverage2 which may  
account for ,peter of ,blois            
characterising the ale in use at ,court 

in his day 7he died about the end of the
 twelfth century7 as potent--it was by  
contrast so4 ,the first assize of ale   
seems not to have been enacted till the 
reign of ,henry ,,iii4  ,from a glossary
 of the fourteenth century1 inserted in 
,reliquse ,antique1 #ahda1 it appears   
that whey was then used as a drink2 it  
occurs there as cerum1 i1 quidam liquor1
 whey4     ,,the ,,kitchen4   ,in direct
 connection with cookery as with        
horticulture1 are the utensils and      
appliances which were at the command of 
those who had to do with these matters  
in days of yore2 and in both cases an   
inquirer finds that he has to turn from 
the vain search for actual specimens    
belonging to remoter antiquity to casual
 representations or descriptions in     
,,mss4 and printed books4 ,our own      
museums appear to be very weakly        
furnished with examples of the vessels  
and implements in common use for        
culinary purposes in ancient times1 and1
 judging from the comparatively limited 

information which we get upon this      
subject from the pages of ,lacroix1 the 
paucity of material is not confined to  
ourselves4 ,the destruction and         
disappearance of such humble monuments  
of the civilisation of the past are     
easily explained2 and the survival of a 
slender salvage is to be treated as a   
circumstance not less remarkable than   
fortunate4  ,it seems that the practice 
was to cut up1 if not to slaughter1 the 
animals used for food in the kitchen1   
and to prepare the whole carcase1 some  
parts in one way and some in another4   
,we incidentally collect from an ancient
 tale that the hearts of swine were much
 prized as dainties4  ,besides a general
 notion of the appointments of the      
cooking department1 we are enabled to   
form some conception of the aspect of   
the early kitchen itself from extant    
representations in the ,archaeological  
,album1 the ,penny ,magazine for #ahcf1 
and ,lacroix ,footnote3 ,moeurs1 ,usages
 et ,costumes au ,moyen ,age1 #ahgb1 pp 

#aff1 #agj1 #agg4 ,the last-named       
authority furnishes us with two         
interesting sixteenth century interiors 
from ,jost ,amman1 and 7from the same   
source7 a portraiture of the cook of    
that period4  ,the costume of the       
subject is not only exhibited1 doubtless
 with the fidelity characteristic of the
 artist1 but is quite equally applicable
 to ,france1 if not to our own country1 
and likewise to a much earlier date4    
,the evidences of the same class        
supplied by the ,archaeological ,album1 
#ahde1 are drawn from the ,,ms4 in the  
,british ,museum1 formerly belonging to 
the ,abbey of ,st4 ,albans4 ,they       
consist of two illustrations--one of    
,master ,robert1 cook to the abbey1 as  
elsewhere noticed1 accompanied by his   
wife--unique relic of its kind2 the     
other a view of a small apartment with  
dressers and shelves1 and with plates   
and accessories hung round1 in which a  
cook1 perhaps the identical ,master     
,robert aforesaid1 is plucking a bird4  

,the fireplace is in the background1 and
 the iron vessel which is to receive the
 fowl1 or whatever it may really be1 is 
suspended over the flame by a long      
chain4 ,the perspective is rather       
faulty1 and the details are not very    
copious2 but for so early a period as   
the thirteenth or early part of the     
following century its value is          
undeniable4  ,the ,penny ,magazine      
presents us with a remarkable exterior1 
that of the venerable kitchen of        
,stanton-,harcourt1 near ,oxford1       
twenty-nine feet square and sixty feet  
in height4 ,there are two large         
fireplaces1 facing each other1 but no   
chimney1 the smoke issuing atthe holes1 
each about seven inches in diameter1    
which run round the roof4 ,as ,lamb said
 of his ,essays1 that they were all     
,preface1 so this kitchen is all        
chimney4 ,it is stated that the kitchen 
at ,glastonbury ,abbey was constructed  
on the same model2 and both are probably
 older than the reign of ,henry ,,iv4   

,the one to which ,i am more immediately
 referring1 though1 at the time 7#ahce7 
the drawing was taken1 in an excellent  
state of preservation1 had evidently    
undergone repairs and structural        
changes4  ,it was at ,stanton-,harcourt 
that ,pope wrote a portion of his       
translation of ,homer1 about #agah4  ,a 
manufactory of brass cooking utensils   
was established at ,wandsworth in or    
before ,aubrey's time by ,dutchmen1 who 
kept the art secret4 ,lysons states that
 the place where the industry was       
carried on bore the name of the ,frying 
,pan ,houses ,footnote3 ,a ,environs of 
,london1 #ast ed41 ,surrey1 pp4 #ejb-c4 
,in the ,north of ,england1 the         
bake-stone1 originally of the material  
to which it owed its name1 but at a very
 early date constructed of iron1 with   
the old appellations retained as usual1 
was the universal machinery for baking1 
and was placed on the ,branderi1 an iron
 frame which was fixed on the top of the
 fireplace1 and consisted of iron bars1 

with a sliding or slott bar1 to shift   
according to the circumstances4  ,the   
tripod which held the cooking-vessel    
over the wood flame1 among the former   
inhabitants of ,britain1 has not been   
entirely effaced4 ,it is yet to be seen 
here and there in out-of-the-way corners
 and places2 and in ,india they use one 
constructed of clay1 and differently    
contrived4 ,the most primitive pots for 
setting over the fire on the tripod were
 probably of bronze4  ,the tripod seems 
to be substantially identical with what 
was known in ,nidderdale as the         
kail-pot4 ,this was formerly in common  
use1 says ,mr4 ,lucas2 a round iron pan1
 about ten inches deep and eighteen     
inches across1 with a tight-fitting1    
convex lid4 ,it was provided with three 
legs4 ,the kail-pot1 as it was called1  
was used for cooking pies1 and was      
buried bodily in burning peat4 ,as the  
lower peats became red-hot1 they drew   
them from underneath1 and placed them on
 the top4 ,the kail-pot may still be    

seen on a few farms4 ,this was about    
#ahgj4  ,the writer is doubtless correct
 in supposing that this utensil was     
originally employed for cooking kail or 
cabbage and other green stuff4  ,three  
rods of iron or hard wood lashed        
together1 with a hook for taking the    
handle of the kettle1 formed1 no doubt1 
the original tripod4 ,but among some of 
the tribes of the ,north of ,europe1 and
 in certain ,tartar1 ,indian1 and other 
communities1 we see no such rudimentary 
substitute for a grate1 but merely two  
uprights and a horizontal rest1         
supporting a chain2 and in the          
illustration to the thirteenth or       
fourteenth century ,,ms41 once part of  
the abbatial library at ,st4 ,albans1 a 
nearer approach to the modern jack is   
apparent in the suspension of the vessel
 over the flame by a chain attached to  
the centre of a fireplace4  ,not the    
tripod1 therefore1 but the other type   
must be thought to have been the germ of
 the later-day apparatus1 which yielded 

in its turn to the ,range4  ,the        
fireplace with a ring in the middle1    
from which is suspended the pot1 is     
represented in a ,french sculpture of   
the end of the fourteenth century1 where
 two women are seated on either side1   
engaged in conversation4 ,one holds a   
ladle1 and the other an implement which 
may be meant for a pair of bellows4  ,in
 his treatise on ,kitchen ,utensils1    
,neckam commences with naming a table1  
on which the cook may cut up green stuff
 of various sorts1 as onions1 peas1     
beans1 lentils1 and pulse2 and he       
proceeds to enumerate the tools and     
implements which are required to carry  
on the work3 pots1 tripods for the      
kettle1 trenchers1 pestles1 mortars1    
hatchets1 hooks1 saucepans1 cauldrons1  
pails1 gridirons1 knives1 and so on4    
,the head-cook was to have a little     
apartment1 where he could prepare       
condiments and dressings2 and a sink was
 to be provided for the viscera and     
other offal of poultry4 ,fish was cooked

 in salt water or diluted wine4  ,pepper
 and salt were freely used1 and the     
former must have been ground as it was  
wanted1 for a pepper-mill is named as a 
requisite4 ,mustard we do not encounter 
till the time of ,johannes de ,garlandia
 7early thirteenth century71 who states 
that it grew in his own garden at       
,paris4 ,garlic1 or gar-leac 7in the    
same way as the onion is called         
yn-leac71 had established itself as a   
flavouring medium4 ,the nasturtium was  
also taken into service in the tenth or 
eleventh century for the same purpose1  
and is classed with herbs4  ,when the   
dish was ready1 it was served up with   
green sauce1 in which the chief         
ingredients were sage1 parsley1 pepper1 
and oil1 with a little salt4 ,green     
geese were eaten with raisin or         
crab-apple sauce4 ,poultry was to be    
well larded or basted while it was      
before the fire4  ,i may be allowed to  
refer the reader1 for some interesting  
jottings respecting the first           

introduction of coal into ,london1 to   
,our ,english ,home1 #ahfa4 ,the middle 
classes1 says the anonymous writer1 were
 the first to appreciate its value2 but 
the nobility1 whose mansions were in the
 pleasant suburbs of ,holborn and the   
,strand1 regarded it as a nuisance4     
,this was about the middle of the       
thirteenth century4 ,it may be a mite   
contributed to our knowledge of early   
household economy to mention1 by the    
way1 that in the supernatural tale of   
the ,smith and his ,dame 7sixteenth     
century7 a quarter of coal occurs4 ,the 
smith lays it on the fire all at once2  
but then it was for his forge4 ,he also 
poured water on the flames1 to make     
them1 by means of his bellows1 blaze    
more fiercely4 ,but the proportion of   
coal to wood was long probably very     
small4 ,one of the tenants of the ,abbey
 of ,peterborough1 in #heb1 was obliged 
to furnish forty loads of wood1 but of  
coal two only4  ,in the time of ,charles
 ,i41 however1 coals seem to have been  

usual in the kitchen1 for ,breton1 in   
this ,fantasticks1 #afbf1 says1 under   
,january3--,the ,maid is stirring       
betimes1 and slipping on her ,shooes and
 her ,petticoat1 groaps for the tinder  
box1 where after a conflict between the 
steele and the stone1 she begets a      
spark1 at last the ,candle lights on his
 ,match2 then upon an old rotten        
foundation of broaken boards she erects 
an artificiall fabrick of the black     
,bowels of ,new-,castle soyle1 to which 
she sets fire with as much confidence as
 the ,romans to their ,funerall ,pyles4 
,under ,july1 in the same work1 we hear 
of a chafing dish of coals2 and under   
,september1 wood and coals are mentioned
 together4 ,but doubtless the employment
 of the latter was far less general4    
,in a paper read before the ,royal      
,society1 ,june #i1 #agif1 there is an  
account of a saucepan discovered in the 
bed of the river ,withain1 near         
,tattersall ,ferry1 in ,lincolnshire1 in
 #aghh4 ,it was of base metal1 and was  

grooved at the bottom1 to allow the     
contents more readily to come within    
reach of the fire4 ,the writer of this  
narrative1 which is printed in the      
,philosophical ,transactions1 considered
 that the vessel might be of ,roman     
workman-ship2 as he states that on the  
handle was stamped a name1 ,c4 ,,arat41 
which he interprets ,caius ,aratus4 ,it 
appears1 he adds1 to have been tinned2  
but almost all the coating had been worn
 off4444 ,the art of tinning copper was 
understood and practised by the ,romans1
 although it is commonly supposed to be 
a modern invention4  ,neckam mentions   
the roasting-spit1 elsewhere called the 
roasting-iron2 but ,i fail to detect    
skewers1 though they can hardly have    
been wanting4 ,ladles for basting and   
stirring were familiar4 ,as to the spit 
itself1 it became a showy article of    
plate1 when the fashion arose of serving
 up the meat upon it in the hall2 and   
the tenure by which ,finchingfield in   
,essex was held in capite in the reign  

of ,edward ,,iii4--that of turning the  
spit at the coronation--demonstrates    
that the instrument was of sufficient   
standing to be taken into service as a  
memorial formality4  ,the fifteenth     
century vocabulary notices the          
salt-cellar1 the spoon1 the trencher1   
and the table-cloth4 ,the catalogue     
comprises morsus1 a bit1 which shows    
that bit and bite are synonymous1 or    
rather1 that the latter is the true word
 as still used in ,scotland1 ,yorkshire1
 and ,lincolnshire1 from the last of    
which the ,pilgrims carried it across   
the ,atlantic1 where it is a current    
,americanism1 not for one bite1 but as  
many as you please1 which is1 in fact1  
the modern provincial interpretation of 
the phrase1 but not the antique ,english
 one4 ,the word towel was indifferently 
applied1 perhaps1 for a cloth for use at
 the table or in the lavatory4 ,yet     
there was also the manuturgium1 or      
hand-cloth1 a speciality rendered       
imperative by the mediaeval fashion of  

eating4  ,in the inventory of the linen 
at ,gilling1 in ,yorkshire1 one of the  
seats of the ,fairfax family1 made in   
#aeij1 occur3--,item1 napkins vj4 dozen4
 ,item1 new napkins vj4 dozen4 ,this    
entry may or may not warrant a          
conclusion that the family bought that  
quantity at a time--not a very excessive
 store1 considering the untidy habits of
 eating and the difficulty of making new
 purchases at short notice4  ,another   
mark of refinement is the resort to the 
napron1 corruptly apron1 to protect the 
dress during the performance of kitchen 
work4 ,but the fifteenth century was    
evidently growing wealthier in its      
articles of use and luxury2 the garden  
and the kitchen only kept pace with the 
bed-chamber and the dining-hall1 the    
dairy and the laundry1 the stable and   
the out-buildings4 ,an extensive        
nomenclature was steadily growing up1   
and the ,latin1 old ,french1 and ,saxon 
terms were giving way on all sides to   
the ,english4 ,it has been now for some 

time an allowed and understood thing    
that in these domestic backgrounds the  
growth of our country and the minuter   
traits of private life are to be studied
 with most clear and usurious profit4   
,the trencher1 at first of bread1 then  
of wood1 after a while of pewter1 and   
eventually of pottery1 porcelain or     
china-earth1 as it was called1 and the  
precious metals1 afforded abundant scope
 for the fancy of the artist1 even in   
the remote days when the material for it
 came from the timber-dealer1 and sets  
of twelve were sometimes decorated on   
the face with subjects taken from real  
life1 and on the back with emblems of   
the purpose to which they were destined4
  ,puttenham1 whose ,art of ,english    
,poetry lay in ,,ms4 some years before  
it was published in #aehi1 speaks of the
 posies on trenchers and banqueting     
dishes4 ,the author of ,our ,english    
,home alludes to a very curious set1    
painted in subjects and belonging to the
 reign of ,james ,i41 which was         

exhibited at the ,society of            
,antiquaries' rooms by ,colonel ,sykes4 
,it is to be augured that1 with the     
progress of refinement1 the meats were  
served upon the table on dishes instead 
of trenchers1 and that the latter were  
reserved for use by the guests of the   
family4 ,for in the ,serving-man's      
,comfort1 #aeih1 one reads3--,even so   
the gentlemanly serving-man1 whose life 
and manners doth equal his birth and    
bringing up1 scorneth the society of    
these sots1 or to place a dish where    
they give a trencher2 and speaking of   
the passion of people for raising       
themselves above their extraction1 the  
writer1 a little farther on1 observes3  
,for the yeoman's son1 as ,i said       
before1 leaving gee haigh6 for1 ,butler1
 some more fair trenchers to the table6 
bringeth these ensuing ulcers amongst   
the members of the common body4  ,the   
employment of trenchers1 which          
originated in the manner which ,i have  
shown1 introduced the custom of the     

distribution at table of the two sexes1 
and the fashion of placing a lady and   
gentleman alternately4 ,in former days  
it was frequently usual for a couple    
thus seated together to eat from one    
trencher1 more particularly if the      
relations between them were of an       
intimate nature1 or1 again1 if it were  
the master and mistress of the          
establishment4 ,walpole relates that so 
late as the middle of the last century  
the old ,duke and ,duchess of ,hamilton 
occupied the dais at the head of the    
room1 and preserved the traditional     
manner by sharing the same plate4 ,it   
was a token of attachment and a tender  
recollection of unreturnable youth4     
,the prejudice against the fork in      
,england remained very steadfast actual 
centuries after its first introduction2 
forks are particularised among the      
treasures of kings1 as if they had been 
crown jewels1 in the same manner as the 
iron spits1 pots1 and frying-pans of his
 ,majesty ,edward ,,iii42 and even so   

late as the seventeeth century1 ,coryat1
 who employed one after his visit to    
,italy1 was nicknamed ,furcifer4 ,the   
two-pronged implement long outlived     
,coryat2 and it is to be seen in        
cutlers' signs even down to our day4    
,the old dessert set1 curiously enough1 
instead of consisting of knives and     
forks in equal proportions1 contained   
eleven knives and one fork for ginger4  
,both the fork and spoon were frequently
 made with handles of glass or crystal1 
like those of mother-of-pearl at present
 in vogue4  ,in a tract coeval with     
,coryat the ,fork-bearer1 ,breton's     
,court and ,country1 #afah1 there is a  
passage very relevant to this part of   
the theme3--,for us in the country1 says
 he1 when we have washed our hands after
 no foul work1 nor handling any         
unwholesome thing1 we need no little    
forks to make hay with our mouths1 to   
throw our meat into them4  ,forks1      
though not employed by the community1   
became part of the effects of royal and 

great personages1 and in the inventory  
of ,charles ,v4 of ,france appear the   
spoon1 knife1 and fork4 ,in another of  
the ,duke of ,burgundy1 sixty years     
later 7#adbj71 knives and other         
implements occur1 but no fork4 ,the     
cutlery is described here as of ,german 
make4 ,brathwaite1 in his ,rules for the
 ,government of the ,house of an ,earl1 
probably written about #afag1 mentions  
knives and spoons1 but not forks4  ,as  
the fork grew out of the chopstick1 the 
spoon was probably suggested by the     
ladle1 a form of implement employed     
alike by the baker and the cook2 for the
 early tool which we see in the hands of
 the operative in the oven more nearly  
resembles in the bowl a spoon than a    
shovel4 ,in ,india nowadays they have   
ladles1 but not spoons4 ,the            
universality of broths and semi-liquid  
substances1 as well as the commencement 
of a taste for learned gravies1 prompted
 a recourse to new expedients for       
communicating between the platter and   

the mouth2 and some person of genius saw
 how the difficulty might be solved by  
adapting the ladle to individual        
service4 ,but every religion has its    
quota of dissent1 and there were1 nay1  
are still1 many who professed adherence 
to the sturdy simplicity of their       
progenitors1 and saw in this daring     
reform and the fallow blade of the knife
 a certain effeminate prodigality4  ,it 
is significant of the drift of recent   
years toward the monograph1 that1 in    
#ahdf1 ,mr4 ,westman published ,the     
,spoon3 ,primitive1 ,egyptian1 ,roman1  
,mediaeval and ,modern1 with one hundred
 illustrations1 in an octavo volume4    
,the luxury of carving-knives was1 even 
in the closing years of the fifteenth   
century1 reserved for royalty and       
nobility2 for in the ,privy ,purse      
,expenses of ,henry ,,vii41 under #adig1
 a pair is said to have cost #a #fs4    
#h;d4 of money of that day4 ,nothing is 
said of forks4 ,but in the same account1
 under ,february #ast1 #aejj-a1 one     

,mistress ,brent receives #abs4 7and a  
book1 which cost the king #es4 more7 for
 a silver fork weighing three ounces4   
,in ,newbery's ,dives ,pragmaticus1     
#aefc1 a unique poetical volume in the  
library at ,althorpe1 there is a        
catalogue of cooking utensils which1    
considering its completeness1 is worth  
quotation2 the author speaks in the     
character of a chapman--one forestalling
 ,autolycus3--    ,i have basins1 ewers1
 of tin1 pewter and glass4   ,great     
vessels of copper1 fine latten and      
brass3   ,both pots1 pans and kettles1  
such as never was4   ,i have platters1  
dishes1 saucers and candle-sticks1      
,chafers1 lavers1 towels and fine       
tricks3   ,posnets1 frying-pans1 and    
fine puddingpricks 444   ,fine pans for 
milk1 and trim tubs for sowse4   ,i have
 ladles1 scummers1 andirons and spits1  
,dripping-pans1 pot-hooks4444   ,i have 
fire-pans1 fire-forks1 tongs1 trivets1  
and trammels1   ,roast-irons1 trays1    
flaskets1 mortars and pestles4444  ,and 

among other items he adds rollers for   
paste1 moulds for cooks1 fine cutting   
knives1 fine wine glasses1 soap1 fine   
salt1 and candles4 ,the list is the next
 best thing to an auctioneer's inventory
 of an ,elizabethan kitchen1 to the     
fittings of ,shakespeare's1 or rather of
 his father's4 ,a good idea of the      
character and resources of a nobleman's 
or wealthy gentleman's kitchen at the   
end of the sixteenth and commencement of
 the seventeenth century may be formed  
from the ,fairfax inventories           
7#aeid-afbd71 lately edited by ,mr4     
,peacock4 ,i propose to annex a         
catalogue of the utensils which there   
present themselves3--    ,the furnace   
pan for beef4   ,the beef kettle4       
,great and small kettles4   ,brass      
kettles1 holding from sixteen to twenty 
gallons each4   ,little kettles with    
bowed or carved handles4   ,copper pans 
with ears4   ,great brass pots4         
,dripping-pans4   ,an iron peel or      
baking shovel4   ,a brazen mortar and a 

pestle4   ,gridirons4   ,iron ladles4   
,a laten scummer4   ,a grater4   ,a     
pepper mill4   ,a mustard-quern4        
,boards4   ,a salt-box4   ,an iron      
range4   ,iron racks4   ,a tin pot4     
,pot hooks4   ,a galley bawk to suspend 
the kettle or pot over the fire4        
,spits1 square and round1 and various   
sizes4   ,bearers4   ,crooks4  ,in the  
larders 7wet and dry7 and pastry were3--
    ,moulding boards for pastry4   ,a   
boulting tub for meal4   ,a little      
table4   ,a spice cupboard4   ,a chest  
for oatmeal4   ,a trough4   ,hanging and
 other shelves4  ,here follows the      
return of pewter1 brass1 and other      
vessels belonging to the kitchen3--     
,pewter dishes of nine sizes 7from      
,newcastle74   ,long dishes for rabbits4
    ,saucers4                           
,chargers4                 ,silver      
fashioned4   ,pie plates4               
,voider4                     ,a         
beef-prick4   ,fire shoves and tongs4   
,a brig 7a sort of brandreth74   ,a     

cullender4   ,a pewter baking-pan4      
,kettles of brass4   ,a skillet4   ,a   
brandeth4   ,a shredding knife4   ,a    
chopping knife4   ,an apple cradle4   ,a
 pair of irons to make wafers with4   ,a
 brass pot-lid4   ,beef-axes and knives4
    ,slaughter ropes4       ,for        
,slaughtering4   ,beef stangs4          
,in the beef-house was an assortment of 
tubs1 casks1 and hogsheads4 ,table      
knives1 forks1 spoons1 and              
drinking-vessels presumably belonged to 
another department4  ,the dripping-pan  
is noticed in ,breton's ,fantasticks1   
#afbf3 ,dishes and trenchers are        
necessary servants1 and they that have  
no meat may go scrape2 a ,spit and a    
,dripping-pan would do well1 if well    
furnished4 ,flecknoe1 again1 in his     
character of a ,miserable old           
,gentlewoman1 inserted among his        
,enigmatical ,characters1 #afeh1 speaks 
of her letting her prayer-book fall into
 the dripping-pan1 and the dog and the  
cat quarrelling over it1 and at last    

agreeing to pray on it6  ,but this is a 
branch of the subject ,i cannot afford  
further to penetrate4 ,yet ,i must say a
 word about the polished maple-wood     
bowl1 or maser1 with its mottoes and    
quaint devices1 which figured on the    
side-board of the yeoman and the        
franklin1 and which ,chaucer must have  
often seen in their homes4 ,like        
everything else which becomes popular1  
it was copied in the precious metals1   
with costly and elaborate goldsmith's   
work2 but its interest for us is local1 
and does not lend itself to change of   
material and neighbourhood4 ,the habits 
of the poor and middle classes are apt  
to awaken a keener curiosity in our     
minds from the comparatively slender    
information which has come to us upon   
them2 and as in the case of the maser1  
the laver which was employed in humble  
circles for washing the hands before and
 after a meal was1 not of gold or       
silver1 as in the houses of the         
nobility1 but of brass or laten1 nor was

 it in either instance a ceremonious    
form1 but a necessary process4 ,the     
modern finger-glass and rose-water dish1
 which are an incidence of every        
entertainment of pretension1 and in     
higher society as much a parcel of the  
dinner-table as knives and forks1 are1  
from a mediaeval standpoint1 luxurious  
anachronisms4  ,in ,archbishop ,alfric's
 ,colloquy1 originally written in the   
tenth century1 and subsequently         
augmented and enriched with a ,saxon    
gloss by one of his pupils1 the cook is 
one of the persons introduced and       
interrogated4 ,he is asked what his     
profession is worth to the community2   
and he replies that without him people  
would have to eat their greens and flesh
 raw2 whereupon it is rejoined that they
 might readily dress them themselves2 to
 which the cook can only answer1 that in
 such case all men would be reduced to  
the position of servants4  ,the kitchen 
had its chef or master-cook             
7archimacherus71 under-cooks1 a waferer 

or maker of sweets1 a scullion or       
swiller 7who is otherwise described as a
 quistron71 and knaves1 or boys for     
preparing the meat2 and all these had   
their special functions and implements4 
,even in the fifteenth century the      
appliances for cookery were evidently   
far more numerous than they had been4   
,an illustrated vocabulary portrays1    
among other items1 the dressing-board1  
the dressing-knife1 the roasting-iron1  
the frying-pan1 the spit-turner 7in lieu
 of the old turn-broach71 the andiron1  
the ladle1 the slice1 the skummer2 and  
the assitabulum1 or saucer1 first       
presents itself4 ,it seems as if the    
butler and the pantler had their own    
separate quarters2 and the different    
species of wine1 and the vessels for    
holding it1 are not forgotten4 ,the     
archaic pantry was dedicated1 not to its
 later objects1 but to that which the   
name strictly signifies2 but at the same
 time the writer warrants us in         
concluding1 that the pantry accommodated

 certain miscellaneous utensils1 as he  
comprises in its contents a candlestick1
 a table or board-cloth1 a hand-cloth or
 napkin1 a drinking bowl1 a saucer1 and 
a spoon4 ,the kitchen1 in short1        
comprised within its boundaries a far   
larger variety of domestic requisites of
 all kinds than its modern              
representative1 which deals with an     
external machinery so totally changed4  
,the ancient ,court of ,england was so  
differently constituted from the        
present1 and so many offices which      
sprang out of the feudal system have    
fallen into desuetude1 that it requires 
a considerable effort to imagine a      
condition of things1 where the          
master-cook of our lord the king was a  
personage of high rank and extended     
possessions4 ,how early the functions of
 cook and the property attached to the  
position were separated1 and the tenure 
of the land made dependent on a nominal 
ceremony1 is not quite clear4 ,warner   
thinks that it was in the ,conqueror's  

time2 but at any rate1 in that of ,henry
 ,,ii4 the husband of the heiress of    
,bartholomew de ,cheney held his land in
 ,addington1 ,surrey1 by the serjeantry 
of finding a cook to dress the victuals 
at the coronation2 the custom was kept  
up at least so late as the reign of     
,george ,,iii41 to whom at his          
coronation the lord of the manor of     
,addington presented a dish of pottage4 
,the tenure was varied in its details   
from time to time4 ,but for my purpose  
it is sufficient that manorial rights   
were acquired by the magnus coquus or   
magister coquorum in the same way as by 
the grand butler and other officers of  
state2 and when so large a share of the 
splendour of royalty continued for      
centuries to emanate from the kitchen1  
it was scarcely inappropriate or unfair 
to confer on that department of state   
some titular distinction1 and endow the 
holder with substantial honours4 ,to the
 ,grand ,chamberlain and the ,grand     
,butler the ,grand ,cook was a meet     

appendage4  ,the primary object of these
 feudal endowments was the establishment
 of a cordon round the throne of        
powerful subjects under conditions and  
titles which to ourselves may appear    
incongruous and obscure1 but which were 
in tolerable keeping with the financial 
and commercial organisation of the      
period1 with a restricted currency1 a   
revenue chiefly payable in kind1 scanty 
facilities for transit1 and an absence  
of trading centres4 ,these              
steward-ships1 butler-ships1 and        
cook-ships1 in the hands of the most    
trusted vassals of the ,crown1          
constituted a rudimentary vehicle for   
in-gathering the dues of all kinds      
renderable by the king's tenants2 and as
 an administrative scheme gradually     
unfolded itself1 they became titular and
 honorary1 like our own reduced         
menagerie of nondescripts4 ,but while   
they lasted in their substance and      
reality1 they answered the wants and    
notions of a primitive people2 nor is it

 for this practical age to lift up its  
hands or its voice too high2 for        
mediaeval ,england is still legible     
without much excavation in our ,court1  
our ,church1 nay1 in our ,laws4 ,there  
lurk our cunning spoilers6  ,mr4        
,fairholt1 in the ,archaeological       
,album1 #ahde1 has depicted for our     
benefit the chef of the ,abbey of ,st4  
,albans in the fourteenth century1 and  
his wife ,helena ,the representations of
 these two notable personages occur in a
 ,,ms4 in the ,british ,museum1 which   
formerly belonged to the ,abbey1 and    
contains a list of its benefactors1 with
 their gifts4 ,it does not appear that  
,master ,robert1 cook to ,abbot ,thomas1
 was the donor of any land or money2    
but1 in consideration of his long and   
faithful services1 his soul was to be   
prayed for with that of his widow1 who  
bestowed #cs4 #d;d4 ad opus hujus libri1
 which ,fairholt supposes to refer to   
the insertion of her portrait and that  
of her spouse among the graphic         

decorations of the volume4 ,they are    
perhaps in their way unique4 ,behold    
them opposite6  ,another point in       
reference to the early economy of the   
table1 which should not be overlooked1  
is the character of the ancient buttery1
 and the quick transition which its     
functionary1 the butler1 experienced    
from the performance of special to that 
of general duties4  ,he at a very remote
 period acted not merely as the curator 
of the wine-cellar1 but as the domestic 
steward and storekeeper2 and it was his 
business to provide for the requirements
 of the kitchen and the pantry1 and to  
see that no opportunity was neglected of
 supplying1 from the nearest port1 or   
market town1 or fair1 if his employer   
resided in the country1 all the         
necessaries for the departments under   
his control4 ,we are apt to regard the  
modern bearer of the same title as more 
catholic in his employments than the    
appellation suggests2 but he in fact    
wields1 on the contrary1 a very         

circumscribed authority compared to that
 of his feudal prototype4  ,one of the  
menial offices in the kitchen1 when the 
spit came into use1 was the             
broach-turner1 lately referred to4 ,he  
was by no means invariably maintained on
 the staff1 but was hired for the       
occasion1 which may augur the general   
preference for boiled and fried meats4  
,sometimes it appears that any lad      
passing by1 or in want of temporary     
employment1 was admitted for this       
purpose1 and had a trifling gratuity1 or
 perhaps only his dinner and the        
privilege of dipping his fingers in the 
dripping1 for his pains4  ,warner cites 
an entry in some accounts of the        
,hospital of ,st4 ,bartholomew at       
,sandwich1 under #aefi3--;,for tournynge
 the spytte1 iiijd4 and this was when   
the mayor of the borough dined with the 
prior4 ,a royal personage gave1 of      
course1 more4 ,the play of ,gammer      
,gurton's ,needle1 written about #aefj1 
opens with a speech of ,diccon the      

,bedlam1 or poor ,tom1 where he says3-- 
,many a gossip's cup in my time have ,i 
tasted1   ,and many a broach and spit   
have ,i both turned and basted4  ,the   
spit1 again1 was supplanted by the jack4
  ,the ,history of ,friar ,rush1 #afbj1 
opens with a scene in which the hero    
introduces himself to a monastery1 and  
is sent by the unsuspecting prior to the
 master-cook1 who finds him subordinate 
employment4     ,,meals4   ,it has been 
noted that for a great length of time   
two meals were made to suffice the      
requirements of all classes4 ,our own   
experience shows how immaterial the     
names are which people from age to age  
choose to bestow on their feeding       
intervals4 ,some call supper dinner1 and
 others call dinner luncheon4 ,first    
comes the prevailing mode instituted by 
fashionable society1 and then a foolish 
subscription to it by a section of the  
community who are too poor to follow it1
 and too proud not to seem to do so4    
,formerly it was usual for the ,great to

 dine and sup earlier than the ,little2 
but now the rule is reversed1 and the   
later a man dines the more distinguished
 he argues himself4 ,we have multiplied 
our daily seasons of refreshment1 and   
eat and drink far oftener than our      
ancestors2 but the truly genteel ,briton
 never sups2 the word is scarcely in his
 vocabulary1--like ,beau ,brummel and   
the farthing--,fellow1 ,i do not know   
the coin6  ,in a glossary of the        
tenth-eleventh century only two meals   
are quoted3 undermeat  prandium1 and    
even-meat  coena4 ,that is to say1 our  
,saxon precursors were satisfied as a   
rule with two repasts daily1 but to this
 in more luxurious times were added the 
supper and even the rear-supper1 the    
latter being1 so far as we know1 a      
second course or dessert and the        
bipartite collation corresponding to the
 modern late dinner4 ,but it is one of  
those strange survivals of ancient      
manners which people practise without   
any consciousness of the fact1 which is 

at the root of the fashion1 which still 
occasionally prevails1 of dividing the  
chief meal of the day by an interval of 
repose1 and taking the wine and dessert 
an hour or two after the other courses2 
and the usage in our colleges and inns  
of court of retiring to another         
apartment to wine may claim the same    
origin4 ,it is obvious that the         
rear-supper was susceptible of becoming 
the most important and costly part of an
 entertainment2 and that it frequently  
assumed extravagant proportions1 many   
passages from our early poets might be  
adduced to prove4  ,in the ,book of     
,cookery1 #aejj1 we have the menu at the
 installation of ,archbishop ,nevill in 
,york in #adfg2 but the bill of fare of 
a feast given by him in #adeb at        
,oxford1 where he is mentioned as       
,master ,nevill1 son of the ,earl of    
,salisbury1 is inserted from the ,cotton
 ,,ms4 ,titus1 in ,reliquiae ,antiquae1 
#ahda4 ,it consisted of three courses1  
which seem to have been the customary   

limit4 ,of course1 however1 the usage   
varied1 as in the ,song of the ,boar's  
,head1 of which there are two or three  
versions1 two courses only are specified
 in what has the air of having been a   
rather sumptuous entertainment4  ,the   
old low-,latin term for the noonday meal
 was merenda1 which suggests the idea of
 food to be earned before it was        
enjoyed4 ,so in ,friar ,bacon's         
,prophesie1 #afjd1 a poem1 it is        
declared that1 in the good old days1 he 
that wrought not1 till he sweated1 was  
held unworthy of his meat4 ,this reminds
 one of ,abernethy's maxim for the      
preservation of health1--to live on     
sixpence a day1 and earn it4  ,the ,song
 of the ,boar's ,head1 just cited1 and  
printed from the ,porkington ,,ms4 in   
,reliquiae ,antiquae 7ii1 #cj71 refers  
to larks for ladies to pick as part of  
the second course in a banquet4 ,on     
special occasions1 in the middle ages1  
after the dessert1 hippocras was served1
 as they have liqueurs to this day on   

the ,continent both after dinner and    
after the mid-day breakfast4  ,the      
writer of ,piers of ,fulham lived to see
 this fashion of introducing a third    
meal1 and that again split into two for 
luxury's sake2 for his metrical         
biographer tells us1 that he refused    
rear-suppers1 from a fear of surfeiting4
  ,i collect that in the time of ,henry 
,,viii4 the supper was a                
well-established institution1 and that  
the abuse of postponing it to a too     
advanced hour had crept in2 for the     
writer of a poem of this period         
especially counsels his readers not to  
sup late4  ,rear-suppers were not only  
held in private establishments1 but in  
taverns2 and in the early interlude of  
the ,four ,elements1 given in my edition
 of ,dodsley1 and originally published  
about #aeai1 a very graphic and edifying
 scene occurs of a party of roisterers  
ordering and enjoying an entertainment  
of this kind4 ,about seventy years      
later1 ,robert ,greene1 the playwright1 

fell a victim to a surfeit of pickled   
herrings and ,rhenish wine1 at some     
merry gathering of his intimates falling
 under this denomination4 ,who will     
venture to deny that the first person   
who kept unreasonable hours was an      
author and a poet8 ,even ,shakespeare is
 not exempt from the suspicion of having
 hastened his end by indulgence with one
 or two friends in a gay carouse of this
 kind4  ,the author of the ,description 
of ,england enlightens us somewhat on   
the sort of kitchen which the middle    
class and yeomanry of his time deemed   
fit and sufficient4 ,the merchant or    
private gentleman had usually from one  
to three dishes on the table when there 
were no visitors1 and from four to six  
when there was company4 ,what the       
yeoman's every-day diet was ,harrison   
does not express2 but at ,christmas he  
had brawn1 pudding and souse1 with      
mustard2 beef1 mutton1 and pork2 shred  
pies1 goose1 pig1 capon1 turkey1 veal1  
cheese1 apples1 etc41 with good drink1  

and a blazing fire in the hall4 ,the    
farmer's bill of fare varied according  
to the season3 in ,lent1 red herrings   
and salt fish2 at ,easter1 veal and     
bacon2 at ,martinmas1 salted beef2 at   
,midsummer1 fresh beef1 peas1 and salad2
 at ,michaelmas1 fresh herrings and fat 
mutton2 at ,all ,saints'1 pork and peas 
and fish2 and at ,christmas1 the same   
dainties as our yeoman1 with good cheer 
and pastime4  ,the modern luncheon or   
nuncheon was the archaic prandium1 or   
under-meat1 displaced by the breakfast1 
and modified in its character by the    
different distribution of the daily     
repasts1 so that1 instead of being the  
earliest regular meal1 like the grand   
djeuner of the ,french1 or coming1 like 
our luncheon1 between breakfast and     
dinner1 it interposed itself between the
 noontide dinner and the evening supper4
 ,now1 with an increasing proportion of 
the community1 the universal luncheon1  
postponed to a later hour1 is the actual
 dinner2 and our under-meal is the      

afternoon tea4  ,in those               
not-wholly-to-be-discommended days1 the 
residue of the meal was consumed in the 
servants' hall1 and the scraps bestowed 
on the poor at the gate2 and the last   
part of the business was carried out1   
not as a matter of chance or caprice1   
but on as methodical a principle as the 
payment of a poor-rate4 ,at the         
servants' table1 besides the waiters and
 other attendants on the principal      
board1 mentioned by ,harrison1 sat the  
master-cook1 the pantler1 the steward or
 major-domo1 the butler1 the cellarman1 
the waferer1 and others4 ,it was not    
till comparatively recent times that the
 wafery1 a special department of the    
royal kitchen1 where the confectionery  
and pastry were prepared1 was           
discontinued4  ,there was necessarily a 
very large section of the community in  
all the large towns1 especially in      
,london1 which was destitute of culinary
 appliances1 and at the same time of any
 charitable or eleemosynary privileges4 

,a multitude of persons1 of both sexes  
and all ages1 gradually developed       
itself1 having no feudal ties1 but      
attached to an endless variety of more  
or less humble employments4  ,how did   
all these men1 women1 boys1 girls1 get  
their daily food8 ,the answer is1 in the
 public eating-houses4 ,fitzstephen     
tells us that in the reign of ,henry    
,,ii4 7#aaed-hi71 besides the           
wine-vaults and the shops which sold    
liquors1 there was on the banks of the  
river a public eating-house or          
cook's-shop1 where1 according to the    
time of year1 you could get every kind  
of victuals1 roasted1 boiled1 baked1 or 
fried2 and even1 says he1 if a friend   
should arrive at a citizen's house1 and 
not care to wait1 they go to the shop1  
where there were viands always kept     
ready to suit every purse and palate1   
even including venison1 sturgeon1 and   
,guinea-fowls4 ,for all classes         
frequented the ,city2 and before        
,bardolph's day noblemen and gentlemen  

came to ,smithfield to buy their horses1
 as they did to the waterside near the  
,tower to embark for a voyage4  ,one of 
the characters in the ,canterbury       
,tales--the ,cook of ,london--was1 in   
fact the keeper of a cook's-shop2 and in
 the ,prologue to the ,tale1 with which 
his name is associated1 the charming    
story of ,gamelin1 the poet makes the   
,reeve charge his companion with not    
very creditable behaviour towards his   
customers4 ,so our host trusts that his 
relation will be entertaining and       
good3--    ,for many a pasty hast thou  
let blood1   ,and many a ,jack of       
,dover#a hast thou sold1   ,that hath   
been twice hot and twice cold4   ,of    
many a pilgrim hast thou ,christ's      
curse--   ,for thy parsley fare they yet
 the worse3   ,that they have eaten with
 the stubble goose1   ,for in thy shop  
is many a fly loose4    ,footnote #a3 ,a
 sole  ,but these restaurants were not  
long confined to one locality4 ,from a  
very early date1 owing perhaps to its   

proximity to the ,tower and the ,thames1
 ,east ,cheap was famed for its houses  
of entertainment4 ,the ,dagger in ,cheap
 is mentioned in ,a ,hundred ,merry     
,tales1 #aebf4 ,the ,boar is historical4
 ,it was naturally at the ,east-end1 in 
,london proper1 that the flood-tide1 as 
it were1 of tavern life set in1 among   
the seafarers1 in the heart of          
industrial activity2 and the anecdotes  
and glimpses which we enjoy show1 just  
what might have been guessed1 that these
 houses often became scenes of riotous  
excess and debauch4 ,lydgate's ballad of
 ,london ,lickpenny helps one to imagine
 what such resorts must have been in the
 first part of the fifteenth century4   
,it is almost permissible to infer that 
the street contained1 in addition to the
 regular inns1 an assortment of open    
counters1 where the commodities on sale 
were cried aloud for the benefit of the 
passer-by2 for he says3--    ,when ,i   
hied me into ,east ,cheap3   ,one cries 
ribs of beef1 and many a pie3   ,pewter 

pots they clattered on a heap2   ,there 
was harp1 fife1 and sautry4  ,the       
mention of pewter is noteworthy1 because
 the ,earl of ,northumberland ate his   
dinner off wood in #aegb4 ,pewter plates
 had not long been given up when ,i     
joined the ,inner ,temple in #ahfa4     
,there is a still more interesting      
allusion in the interlude of the ,world 
and the ,child1 #aebb1 where ,folly is  
made to say3--    ,yea1 and we shall be 
right welcome1 ,i dare well say1   ,in  
,east ,cheap for to dine2   ,and then we
 will with ,lombards at passage play1   
,and at the ,pope's ,head sweet wine    
assay4  ,the places of resort in this   
rollicking locality could furnish1 long 
before ,the ,boar made the acquaintance 
of ,falstaff1 every species of delicacy 
and bonne bouche to their constituents1 
and the revelry was apt sometimes to    
extend to an unseasonable hour4 ,in an  
early naval song we meet with the lines3
    ,he that will in ,east ,cheap eat a 
goose so fat1   ,with harp1 pipe1 and   

song1   ,must lie in ,newgate on a mat1 
,be the night never so long4  ,and these
 establishments infallibly contributed  
their quota or more to the prisons in   
the vicinity4  ,houses of refreshment   
seem1 however1 to have extended         
themselves westward1 and to have become 
tolerably numerous1 in the earlier      
society of the sixteenth century1 for   
,sir ,thomas ,more1 in a letter to his  
friend ,dean ,colet1 speaking of a late 
walk in ,westminster and of the various 
temptations to expenditure and          
dissipation which the neighbourhood then
 afforded1 remarks3 ,whithersoever we   
cast our eyes1 what do we see but       
victualling-houses1 fishmongers1        
butchers1 cooks1 pudding-makers1        
fishers1 and fowlers1 who minister      
matter to our bellies8 ,this was prior  
to #aeai1 the date of ,colet's decease4 
,there were of course periods of        
scarcity and high prices then as now4   
,it was only a few years later 7#aebd71 
that ,robert ,whittinton1 in one of his 

grammatical tracts 7the ,vulgaria71     
includes among his examples3--  ,befe   
and motton is so dere1 that a peny worth
 of meet wyll scant suffyse a boy at a  
meale4  ,the term cook's-shop occurs in 
the ,orders and ,ordinances devised by  
the ,steward1 ,dean1 and ,burgesses of  
,westminster in #aehe1 for the better   
municipal government of that borough4   
,the tenth article runs thus3--,item1   
that no person or persons that keepeth  
or that hereafter shall keep any        
cook's-shop1 shall also keep a common   
ale-house 7except every such person     
shall be lawfully licensed thereunto71  
upon pain to have and receive such      
punishment1 and pay such fine1 as by the
 statute in that case is made and       
provided4  ,but while the keepers of    
restaurants were1 as a rule1 precluded  
by law from selling ale1 the publicans  
on their side were not supposed to      
purvey refreshment other than their own 
special commodities4 ,for the fifteenth 
proviso of these orders is3--  ,item1   

that no tavern-keeper or inn-keeper     
shall keep any cook shop upon pain to   
forfeit and pay for every time offending
 therein #d;d4  ,the ,london cooks      
became famous1 and were not only in     
demand in the ,city and its immediate   
outskirts1 but were put into requisition
 when any grand entertainment was given 
in the country4 ,in the list of expenses
 incurred at the reception of ,queen    
,elizabeth in #aegg by ,lord ,keeper    
,bacon at ,gorhambury1 is an item of #ab
 as wages to the cooks of ,london4 ,an  
accredited anecdote makes ,bacon's      
father inimical to too lavish an outlay 
in the kitchen2 but a far more profuse  
housekeeper might have been puzzled to  
dispense with special help1 where the   
consumption of viands and the consequent
 culinary labour and skill required1    
were so unusually great4  ,in the       
,prologue to the ,canterbury ,tales1 the
 ,cook of ,london and his qualifications
 are thus emblazoned3--    ,a ,cook thei
 hadde with hem for the nones1   ,to    

boylle chyknes1 with the mary bones1    
,and poudre marchaunt tart1 and         
galyngale2   ,wel cowde he knowe a      
draugte of ,london ale4   ,he cowde     
roste1 and sethe1 and broille1 and frie 
,maken mortreux1 and wel bake a pie4    
,but gret harm was it1 as it thoughte   
me1   ,that on his schyne a mormal had  
he3   ,for blankmanger that made he with
 the beste4  ,this description would be 
hardly worth quoting1 if it were not for
 the source whence it comes1 and the    
names which it presents in common with  
the ,form of ,cury and other ancient    
relics4 ,chaucer's ,cook was a personage
 of unusually wide experience1 having1  
in his capacity as the keeper of an     
eating-house1 to cater for so many      
customers of varying tastes and         
resources4  ,in the time of ,elizabeth1 
the price at an ordinary for a dinner   
seems to have been sixpence4 ,it        
subsequently rose to eightpence2 and in 
the time of ,george ,i4 the ,vade ,mecum
 for ,malt ,worms 7#agbj7 speaks of the 

landlord of ,the ,bell1 in ,carter      
,lane1 raising his tariff to tenpence4  
,in comparison with the cost of a       
similar meal at present1 all these      
quotations strike one as high1 when the 
different value of money is considered4 
,but in #agbj1 at all events1 the       
customer ate at his own discretion4     
,their vicinity to ,east ,cheap1 the    
great centre of early taverns and       
cook's-shops1 obtained for ,pudding     
,lane and ,pie ,corner those savoury    
designations4  ,paris1 like ,london1 had
 its cook's-shops1 where you might eat  
your dinner on the premises1 or have it 
brought to your lodging in a covered    
dish by a porte-chape4 ,in the old      
prints of ,french kitchen interiors1 the
 cook's inseparable companion is his    
ladle1 which he used for stirring and   
serving1 and occasionally for dealing a 
refractory garon de cuisine a rap on the
 head4  ,the ,dictionary of ,johannes de
 ,garlandia 7early thirteenth century7  
represents the cooks at ,paris as       

imposing on the ignorant and            
inexperienced badly cooked or even      
tainted meat1 which injured their       
health4 ,these coquinarii stood1        
perhaps1 in the same relation to those  
times as our keepers of restaurants4    
,he mentions in another place that the  
cooks washed their utensils in hot      
water1 as well as the plates and dishes 
on which the victuals were served4  ,mr4
 ,wright has cited an instance from the 
romance of ,doon de ,mayence1 where the 
guards of a castle1 on a warm summer    
evening1 partook of their meal in a     
field4 ,refreshment in the open air was 
also usual in the hunting season1 when a
 party were at a distance from home2 and
 the garden arbour was occasionally     
converted to this kind of purpose1 when 
it had assumed its more modern phase4   
,but our picnic was unknown4            
,,etiquette ,,of ,,the ,,table4   ,paul 
,hentzner1 who was in ,england at the   
end of the reign of ,elizabeth1 remarks 
of the people whom he saw that they are 

more polite in eating than the ,french1 
devouring less bread1 but more meat1    
which they roast in perfection4 ,they   
put a good deal of sugar in their drink4
  ,in his ,court and ,country1 #afah1   
,nicholas ,breton gives an instructive  
account of the strict rules which were  
drawn up for observance in great        
households at that time1 and says that  
the gentlemen who attended on great     
lords and ladies had enough to do to    
carry these orders out4 ,not a trencher 
must be laid or a napkin folded awry2   
not a dish misplaced2 not a capon carved
 or a rabbit unlaced contrary to the    
usual practice2 not a glass filled or a 
cup uncovered save at the appointed     
moment3 everybody must stand1 speak1 and
 look according to regulation4  ,the    
books of demeanour which have been      
collected by ,mr4 ,furnivall for the    
,early ,english ,text ,society have     
their incidental value as illustrating  
the immediate theme1 and are curious1   
from the growth in consecutive          

compilations of the code of instructions
 for behaviour at table1 as evidences of
 an increasing cultivation both in      
manners and the variety of appliances   
for domestic use1 including relays of   
knives for the successive courses4      
,distinctions were gradually drawn      
between genteel and vulgar or coarse    
ways of eating1 and facilities were     
provided for keeping the food from      
direct contact with the fingers1 and    
other primitive offences against        
decorum4 ,many of the precepts in the   
late fifteenth century ,babies' ,book1  
while they demonstrate the necessity for
 admonition1 speak also to an advance in
 politeness and delicacy at table4      
,there must be a beginning somewhere2   
and the authors of these guides to      
deportment had imbibed the feeling for  
something higher and better1 before they
 undertook to communicate their views to
 the young generation4  ,there is no    
doubt that the ,babies' ,book and its   
existing congeners are the successors of

 anterior and still more imperfect      
attempts to introduce at table some     
degree of cleanliness and decency4 ,when
 the ,babies' ,book made its appearance1
 the progress in this direction must    
have been immense4 ,but the observance  
of such niceties was of course at first 
exceptional2 and the ideas which we see 
here embodied were very sparingly       
carried into practice outside the verge 
of the ,court itself and the homes of a 
few of the aristocracy4  ,there may be  
an inclination to revolt against the    
barbarous doggerel in which the         
instruction is1 as a rule1 conveyed1 and
 against the tedious process of perusing
 a series of productions which follow   
mainly the same lines4 ,but it is to be 
recollected that these manuals were     
necessarily renewed in the manuscript   
form from age to age1 with variations   
and additions1 and that the writers     
resorted to metre as a means of         
impressing the rules of conduct more    
forcibly on their pupils4  ,of all the  

works devoted to the management of the  
table and kitchen1 the ,book of         
,nurture1 by ,john ,russell1 usher of   
the chamber and marshal of the ball to  
,humphrey1 ,duke of ,gloucester1 is     
perhaps1 on the whole1 the most         
elaborate1 most trustworthy1 and most   
important4 ,it leaves little connected  
with the cuisine of a noble             
establishment of the fifteenth century  
untouched and unexplained2 and although 
it assumes the metrical form1 and in a  
literary respect is a dreary            
performance1 its value as a guide to    
almost every branch of the subject is   
indubitable4 ,it lays bare to our eyes  
the entire machinery of the household1  
and we gain a clearer insight from it   
than from the rest of the group of      
treatises1 not merely into what a great 
man of those days and his family and    
retainers ate and drank1 and how they   
used to behave themselves at table1 but 
into the process of making various      
drinks1 the mystery of carving1 and the 

division of duties among the members of 
the staff4 ,it is1 in fact1 the earliest
 comprehensive book in our literature4  
,the functions of the squire at the     
table of a prince are1 to a certain     
extent1 shown in the ,squire of ,low    
,degree1 where the hero1 having arrayed 
himself in scarlet1 with a chaplet on   
his head and a belt round his waist1    
cast a horn about his neck1 and went to 
perform his duty in the hall4 ,he       
approaches the king1 dish in hand1 and  
kneels4 ,when he has served his         
sovereign1 he hands the meats to the    
others4 ,we see a handsome assortment of
 victuals on this occasion1 chiefly     
venison and birds1 and some of the      
latter were baked in bread1 probably a  
sort of paste4 ,the majority of the     
names on the list are familiar1 but a   
few--the teal1 the curlew1 the crane1   
the stork1 and the snipe--appear to be  
new4 ,it is1 in all these cases1 almost 
impossible to be sure how much we owe to
 the poet's imagination and how much to 

his rhythmical poverty4 ,from another   
passage it is to be inferred that baked 
venison was a favourite mode of dressing
 the deer4  ,the precaution of coming to
 table with clean hands was inculcated  
perhaps first as a necessity1 when      
neither forks nor knives were used1 and 
subsequently as a mark of breeding4 ,the
 knife preceded the spoon1 and the fork1
 which had been introduced into ,italy  
in the eleventh century1 and which      
strikes one as a fortuitous development 
of the ,oriental chopstick1 came last4  
,it was not in general use even in the  
seventeenth century here4 ,coryat the   
traveller saw it among the ,italians1   
and deemed it a luxury and a notable    
fact4  ,the precepts delivered by       
,lydgate and others for demeanour at    
table were in advance of the age1 and   
were probably as much honoured in the   
breach as otherwise4 ,but the common    
folk did then much as many of them do   
now1 and granted themselves a           
dispensation both from knife and fork1  

and soap and water4 ,the country boor   
still eats his bacon or his herring with
 his fingers1 just as ,charles ,,xii4 of
 ,sweden buttered his bread with his    
royal thumb4  ,a certain cleanliness of 
person1 which1 at the outset1 was not   
considerably regarded1 became customary1
 as manners softened and female         
influence asserted itself2 and even     
,lydgate1 in his ,stans ,puer ad ,mensam
 7an adaptation from ,sulpitius71       
enjoins on his page or serving-boy a    
resort to the lavatory before he        
proceeds to discharge his functions at  
the board--    ,pare clean thy nails2   
thy hands wash also   ,before meat2 and 
when thou dost arise4  ,other precepts  
follow4 ,he was not to speak with his   
mouth full4 ,he was to wipe his lips    
after eating1 and his spoon when he had 
finished1 taking care not to leave it in
 his dish4 ,he was to keep his napkin as
 clean and neat as possible1 and he was 
not to pick his teeth with his knife4   
,he was not to put too much on his      

trencher at once4 ,he was not to drop   
his sauce or soup over his clothes1 or  
to fill his spoon too full1 or to bring 
dirty knives to the table4 ,all these   
points of conduct are graphic enough2   
and their trite character is their      
virtue4  ,boiled1 and perhaps fried     
meats were served on silver2 but roasts 
might be brought to table on the spit1  
which1 after a while1 was often of      
silver1 and handed round for each person
 to cut what he pleased2 and this was   
done not only with ordinary meat1 but   
with game1 and even with a delicacy like
 a roast peacock4 ,of smaller birds1    
several were broached on one spit4      
,there is a mediaeval story of a husband
 being asked by his wife to help her to 
the several parts of a fowl in          
succession1 till nothing was left but   
the implement on which it had come in1  
whereupon the man determined she should 
have that too1 and belaboured her       
soundly with it4 ,at more ceremonious   
banquets the servants were preceded by  

music1 or their approach from the       
kitchen to the hall was proclaimed by   
sound of trumpets4 ,costly plate was    
gradually introduced1 as well as linen  
and utensils1 for the table2 but the    
plate may be conjectured to have been an
 outcome from the primitive trencher1 a 
large slice of bread on which meat was  
laid for the occupants of the high      
table1 and which was cast aside after   
use4  ,bread served at table was not to 
be bitten or broken off the loaf1 but to
 be cut2 and the loaf was sometimes     
divided before the meal1 and skilfully  
pieced together again1 so as to be ready
 for use4     ,,index4   ,acton1 ,eliza1
 #aga ,addington1 ,surrey1 #bcb         
,aigredouce1 #eg ,albans1 ,st41 ,abbey  
of1 #bjh1 #bcc-d ,ale1 #ahc1 #bje       
--,cock1 #aeb   --,elder1 #aeb          
--,kentish1 #bje ,alfred and the cakes1 
#ed ,al-fresco meals1 #bec-d ,alfric1   
,colloquy of1 #eg ,amber puddings1 #bi1 
#hc ,angelica1 #ace ,anglo-,danish      
barbarism1 #c ,anglo-,celtic influence1 

#eb ,anglo-,saxon names of meats1 #aha  
,animal food1 #h-i1 #cd ,anthropophagy1 
#e-g ,apicius1 ,c41 #ab ,apuleius1 #fe  
,arms and crests on dishes1 #db         
,arnold's ,chronicle1 #fa ,arthur1 #ef1 
#ahb1 #ahd-e ,ashen-keys1 pickled1 #adc 
,asparagus1 #hd ,assize of ale1 #bje    
,australian meat1 #agb  ,babies' ,book1 
#beg ,bacon1 ,lord ,keeper1 #bea ,bag   
pudding1 #ahd-e-f ,baker1 #bh1 #aig-h   
--,parisian1 #aig-h ,bakestone1 #ce1    
#baa ,banbury cake1 #bi1 #hc ,bannock1  
#cc ,banquet1 order of a fourteenth     
century1 #dc ,barba1 ,m41 #ae ,bardolf1 
a dish1 #eg ,bardolph1 #bde ,bartholomew
 de ,cheney1 #bcb   --,st41 ,hospital   
of1 at ,sandwich1 #bcf ,battalia pie1   
#aji ,beef1 powdered1 #ahg              
--,martlemas1 #ahc ,beer1 #bf-g1 #bjd-e 
--composition of the ancient1 #bje      
,bees1 wild1 #h ,bellows #bac1 #bae     
,birch wine1 #bjd ,bit and bite1 #bah   
,blackcaps1 #he-f ,bolton1 ,charles1    
,duke of1 #hb ,book of ,st4 ,albans1 #fa
 ,books of demeanour1 #bef ,branderi1   

#baa ,brass cooking vessels1 #baa       
,brawn1 #ahg ,bread1 #h1 #be-f1 #aie-g1 
#bfb ,britons1 diet of the1 #h   --     
,northern and ,southern1 #af ,brittany1 
#c ,broach or spit turner1 #bcf-g       
,broom-buds1 pickled1 #add ,broth1 #c1  
#bc ,bun1 #bh ,butler1 ancient duties of
 the1 #bcd ,butter1 #aih  ,caerleon1    
#ahc ,caesar1 evidence of1 #i-aa1 #af1  
#ag ,cakes1 #ce1 #abg-cb ,calais1 #aid  
,calves1 newly-born   --removal of1 from
 the mother1 while in milk1 #h          
,cannibalism1 #e-f ,carps' tongues1 #ac 
,carving1 terms of1 #ab ,castelvetri1   
#aii ,caudles and possets1 #acb-d       
,caviary1 #aii-bjj ,charlet1 #bc        
,chaucer1 ,g4 #bdf1 #bea ,chaworth's    
7,lady7 pudding1 #bi ,cheesecakes1 ,mrs4
 ,leed's1 etc41 #bi1 #abg1 #aia         
,cheeses1 #abe-g ,chimney1 kitchen1 #baj
 ,china broth1 #hd ,china earth1 #bbj   
,christmas1 #bg ,clare ,market1 #ad     
,cleikirai ,club1 #afh ,clermont1 ,b41  
#aei-fa ,coals1 #bae-af ,cobham1 ,lord1 
#aid ,cockle1 #aie ,colet1 ,dean1 #bdi  

,college wine1 #bdj ,colonial cattle1   
#agb ,condiments1 #bi-ca1 #aih1 #bad    
,confectioner1 #bh   --master1 #cg      
,confectionery1 #bh ,conserves1 #acd-db 
,cook1 #bja1 #bbi-cj   --master1 #bca-c 
,cookery-books1 lists of1 #fg-i1 #gi-ha 
--with the names of old owners1 #ga     
,cook's-shops4 #bde-i ,cooking utensils1
 great value of1 #bbb   --lists of1     
#bbc-g ,cooper1 ,joseph1 #gb-c ,copley1 
,esther1 #afd ,copper1 art of tinning1  
#bag ,cornish pasty1 #ahe ,coryat1      
,thomas1 #bbb ,court1 the ancient1 #bca 
,cows1 #h-i ,crab-apple sauce1 #bae     
,creams1 #abc-d ,cromwell1 ,oliver1     
#gc-e   --his favourite dishes1 ibid4   
,cuisine bourgeoise of ancient ,rome1 #g
   --,english1 affected by fusions of   
race1 #aj   --,old ,french1 #ah-ai      
,cuisinier ,royal1 ,le1 #ad-ae ,curds   
and cream1 #aia  ,danish settlers1 #i   
,danish settlers1 their influence on our
 diet1 #i ,deer-suet1 clarified1 #dd    
,dela,hay ,street1 #cg ,deportment at   
table1 gradual improvement in the1 #bfa 

,dishes1 lists of1 #bc-d1 #bjj-a        
--substituted for trenchers1 #bai       
--different sizes and materials of1 #bbg
   --mode of serving up1 #bfa-b ,dods1  
,margaret1 #afg ,dripping-pans1 #bbe1   
#bbh ,dumplings1 ,norfolk1 #aib  ,earl1 
,rules and ,orders for the ,house of an1
 #ci-db ,east-,cheap1 #bdf-dh           
,eating-houses1 public1 #bde-ej ,ebulum1
 #aea ,edward ,,iii41 #bbb ,eggs1 #bc   
--buttered1 #ac ,elizabeth1 ,queen1 #aij
 ,endoring1 #aih ,english establishment1
 staff of an1 #ci ,ennius1 ,phagetica   
of1 #f ,epulario1 #ff ,etiquette of the 
table1 #bee-fc  ,fairfax inventories1   
#g1 #bah ,falstaff1 #bdh ,farm-servants'
 diet1 #aia ,feasts1 marriage and       
coronation1 #dg-i ,finchmgfield1 #bag   
,fireplace1 #baa1 #bac ,fish1 cheaper1  
demanded1 #cc   --on fast-days1 #dh     
--considered indigestible1 #fd   --lists
 of1 #ai-ba1 #bc   --musical lament of  
the dying1 #bc ,fishing1 ,saxon mode of1
 #ai ,florendine1 #ajc ,flowers1        
conserve of1 #acf ,forced meat1 #aia    

,forks1 #bbb-d ,foreign cookery1 #bh-cj 
--,warner's strictures on #bi-cj ,form  
of ,cury1 #ee ,forster1 ,john1 of       
,hanlop1 #fe ,fox1 ,sir ,stephen1 #cd   
,francatelli1 #afb ,french              
establishment1 staff of a1 #cf ,french  
,gardener1 the1 #fi-gj ,fricasee1 #bc   
,fruit-tart1 #ahf ,fruits1 dried or     
preserved1 #acd-db ,frying-pan1 #bbb    
,frying ,pan ,houses at ,wandsworth1    
#baa ,furmety1 #fd  ,galantine1 #eh     
,galingale1 #bea ,game1 #ag1 #dc-d      
,garlic1 #bad ,gilling in ,yorkshire1   
#bah ,gingerbread1 #aca ,ginger-fork1   
#bbb ,glass and crystal handles to      
knives and forks1 #bbb ,glasse1 ,mrs41  
#aed-f ,glastonbury ,abbey1 #bje        
,glazing1 or endoring1 #dh1 #aih ,gomme1
 ,g4,l41 #af ,goose1 #ajj   --giblets1  
#aij ,grampus1 #ba ,grape1 ,english1    
used for wine1 #bjc ,greece1 ,ancient1  
#e ,greek anthropophagy1 #f-g ,greene1  
,robert1 #bdb  ,hamilton1 ,duke and     
,duchess of1 #bba ,hare1 #ag ,harington 
family1 #db ,hen1 threshing the fat1    

#fb-c ,henry ,,ii41 #bde   --,,iii41    
#aid1 #bje   --,,iv41 #dg   --,,iv4 and 
,v41 #dg   --,,vii41 #ba1 #bjd          
--,,viii41 #bda ,hill1 ,dr41 #aef-h     
,hippocras1 #bjd1 #bda ,holborn and the 
,strand1 suburbs of1 #bae ,home-brewed  
drink1 #aib ,hommes de ,bouche1 #ae     
,hops #bg ,hospitality1 decay of1       
#ahi-ij  ,inns1 want of1 in early       
,scotland1 #cb-c   --and taverns in     
,westminster1 rules for1 #bej ,italian  
cookery1 #bh1 #aih   --pudding1 #he     
,italy1 the fork brought from1 #bbb     
,jack1 the1 #bcg ,jacks1 black1 #aij-a  
,jigget of mutton1 #cd ,joe ,miller     
quoted1 #ac ,johannes de ,garlandia1    
#bad ,johnson1 ,dr41 #aef-i ,johnstone1 
,mrs41 #afg-h ,jumbals1 #abh ,junket1   
#fd ,jussel1 a dish1 #bc  ,kail-pot1    
#bab ,kettle1 #ahb ,kitchens1 #bjf      
--furniture of1 #bac-ad   --staff of    
the1 #bcj ,kitchener1 ,dr41 #afe-f      
,knives1 #bbd1 #bbf  ,ladies and        
gentlemen at table1 #bba ,landlord and  
lawyer1 exactions of1 #ahi-ij ,land o'  

,cakes1 #cc ,laver1 #bbi ,leveret1 #ag  
,liber ,cure ,cocorum1 #ei-fj ,liqueurs1
 #bda ,liquids1 storage of1 #bja ,loaf  
of bread1 #aif   --sugar1 #aid          
,lombards1 #bdh ,london cooks famous1   
#bej ,lord ,mayor of ,london1 #bj ,lord 
,mayor's ,pageant for #aeij1 #cc ,lucas1
 ,joseph1 his ,studies in ,nidderdale1  
#aa ,lumber pie1 #aaj ,luncheon1 #bdc   
,luxury1 growth of1 #da-b1 #ahg         
,lydgate's ,story of ,thebes1 #bd       
--,london ,lickpenny1 #bdg  ,malory's   
,king ,arthur1 #ahc ,manuturgium1 #bah  
,maple-wood bowls1 #bbh-i ,marinade1    
#ajb ,marketing1 old1 #dj ,marlborough  
cake1 #abi ,marmalade1 #aci ,maser1     
#bbh-i ,massinger quoted1 #ac           
,master-cook1 #da1 #bad1 #bca-c         
--ancient privileges of the1 #bca-c     
,meals1 #aia1 #bch-ed   --in the ,percy 
establishment1 #ce ,meats and drinks1   
#aic1 #bje ,menagier de ,paris quoted1  
#ah ,merenda1 a meal1 #bda-b ,metheglin 
or hydromel1 #fd1 #bjd ,middleton1      
,john1 chef1 #hb1 #hd-f ,milk1 #h1 #bja 

,modern terms for dishes first          
introduced1 #bd ,more1 ,sir ,thomas1    
#bdi ,morsus1 #bah ,morton1 ,cardinal1  
#bc ,moryson1 ,fynes1 quoted1 #ca-b     
,mulberries1 #acg-h ,mushrooms1 #aii    
,music to announce the banquet1 #bfb    
,mustard1 #bad  ,nasturtium-buds1       
pickled1 #adb ,neckam1 ,alexander1 #ag1 
#ah1 #ea1 #ec ,nevill1 ,archbishop1 #dh1
 #bdj ,newcastle coal1 #baf ,new        
,college pudding1 #aac ,nidderdale1 #aa1
 #bab ,noble ,book of ,cookery1 #fj-a   
,norfolk dumplings1 #aib   --yeoman1    
#aib ,norman cuisine1 #c1 #dd-f         
--influence on cookery1 #de ,normandy1  
#c ,nott1 ,john1 chef1 #hb  ,oatmeal1   
#ahg ,oblys1 #aif ,odysseus1 #f         
,odyssey1 #f ,olio1 #he   --pie1 #aji   
,omelettes1 #bd ,orders and ,ordinances 
of ,lord ,burleigh as steward of        
,westminster1 #bej ,ordinaries1 ,london1
 #beb   --,parisian1 #bec ,oriental     
sources of cooking1 #g ,oxford1 #bdj    
,oxford cake1 #hc  ,parisian            
cook's-shops1 #bec ,partridges not      

recommended to the poor1 #fd   --#ahg   
,passage1 a game1 #bdh ,pastry1 #bc     
,peacocks4 #ac1 #dh ,pelops1 #f ,pepper1
 #bad ,peter of ,blois1 #bje            
,peterborough ,abbey1 #baf ,pewter1     
utensils of1 #bdg-h ,phagetica of       
,ennius1 #f ,pheasants1 #ac ,pickles1   
#adc et seq4 ,piers of ,fulham1 #bb1    
#ahg1 #bda ,pies1 #bc1 #aji-aj1 #aia    
,pig's pettitoes1 #aia ,ploughman       
7husbandman71 #ahh ,plovers1 #ahg       
,pockets1 #ajb ,poloe1 #ajg ,polyphemus1
 #f ,pome de oringe1 #aih ,poor1 diet of
 the1 #aha;et seq4   --relief of the1   
#bdd ,poor ,knights1 a dish1 #bi ,pope1 
,alex41 #baj ,porcelain1 #bai ,pork1    
#ah1 #ed ,porpoise1 #bj-a1 #bjj         
,porte-chape1 #bec ,potato1 #fe         
,pot-au-feu1 #ec ,pot-hook1 #bbe        
,pot-luck1 #ec ,poudre-marchaunt tart1  
#bea ,poultry1 #ag1 #dd ,powdered beef1 
#ahg   --horse1 #cj ,puddings1 #bc1 #aac
 et seq4 ,pulpatoon1 #ajh  ,quinces1    
#ach-i1 #ada  ,rabbit1 #ag ,radish-pods1
 pickled1 #add ,raisin-sauce1 #bae      

,rasher1 #bc ,rear-supper1 #bci1 #bdb   
,receipts of eminent persons1 #he1      
--,early1 #ih-aec ,religious scruples   
against certain food1 #i ,rents1        
excessive1 #ahi-ij ,roasting-spit or    
iron1 #bag ,robert1 ,master1 and his    
wife ,helena1 #bjh1 #bcd-e ,romans1     
culinary economy of1 #g   --obligation  
to ,greece1 #g ,roses1 conserve of1 #fe 
,rundell1 ,mrs41 #afa ,rush1 ,friar1    
#bcg ,russell's ,book of ,nurture1 #beh 
,salt1 #bad   --1 fine1 #bbh   --cellar1
 #bah ,sandwich1 ,kent1 #bcf ,saracen   
sauce1 #eh ,saucepan1 #baf ,sauces1     
#bi-ca1 #bad-ae ,sausage1 #bc ,saxon    
influence on diet1 #i ,scotland1 want of
 ,inns in1 #cb-c ,scots1 the1 #aa1 #cc1 
#afh   --their early food1 #aa   --their
 poverty1 #cc ,scott1 ,sir ,walter1     
#afg-h ,scottish cookery1 early1 #cj-b  
,secret house1 keeping1 #bf1 #di1aij    
,shakespeare1 ,w41 #bdb ,shrewsbury     
cakes1 #he ,sing a song of sixpence1 #ff
 ,smith and his ,dame1 a tale1 #bae     
,smith1 ,e41 ,preface to her ,cookery   

,book1 #agcf1 #hi-ig   --select extracts
 from the work1 #ih-aec ,soap1 #bbf     
,song of the ,boar's ,head1 #bda ,soups1
 #bc ,soyer1 ,alexis1 #afi-gb ,spanish  
influence on cookery1 #ff   --,armada1  
#aij ,spice with wine1 #bjd ,spinach1   
#hd ,spit-turner1 #bcf ,spit1 turning   
the1 a tenure1 #bag ,spoons1 #bah1      
#bbb-d ,spread-eagle pudding1 #aad      
,spruce-beer1 #bjc ,squire1 functions of
 the1 at table #bei ,squire of ,low     
,degree1 #bei ,st4 ,albans ,abbey1 #bjh 
,st4 ,john's ,college1 ,cambridge1 #bjb 
,stanton-,harcourt1 #baj ,store of      
house1 #ahg ,subtleties1 #dg-h ,sugar1  
#aic-e ,swan1 #ajf ,swinfield1 ,bishop1 
#d ,sykes1 ,colonel1 #bbj ,syrups from  
flowers1 #aab  ,table-cloth1 #bah       
,table-furniture1 #bca ,tansies1 #abb   
,tart1 fruit1 #ahf ,tea caudle1 #acd    
,temse1 #ce ,tiffany cakes1 #ce         
,tillinghast1 ,mary1 #gg ,tinder-box1   
#baf ,tom ,thumb1 #ed1 #ahb1 #ahf       
,touchwood1 ,peregrine1 ,esquire #afh   
,towel1 #bah ,trencher1 #aig1 #bah1     

#bai-ba   --,posies on the1 #bbj ,tripe1
 double1 #ajf ,tripod1 #aha1 #baa-ac    
,trivet1 #bbe ,trumpet1 dishes brought  
into the hall to the sound of1 #bfb     
,tureiner1 #ajc ,tusser1 ,thomas1 #fb-c 
,ude1 ,louis ,eustache1 #afg ,utensils1 
#ab1 #ag1 #bjf1 #bjh et seq41 #bbe-h    
--treatise on1 by ,alex4 ,neckam1 #ag1  
#ea  ,vegetable diet1 #ahc ,venison1    
#dc-d1 #aih ,venner1 ,tobias1 #fc-f     
,viard et ,fouret1 ,,mm41 #ad-ae        
,village life1 early1 #cf ,vocabularies1
 primary object of1 #ea-b  ,wafery1 #bdd
 ,wandsworth1 #baa ,warham1 ,archbishop1
 #dh ,westminister1 #bdi-ej ,westphalia 
hams1 #ajd ,whale1 #bj ,whetstone cakes1
 #abg ,whey1 #bje ,white grease1 #eh    
,whittinton1 ,robert1 #bdi ,wigs1 #aba  
,william ,i41 #c1 #bg   --,,iii41 his   
posset1 #acb ,william of ,malmesbury1   
#af ,wines1 #ade-ec4 #bjb-d   --lists   
of1 #bjc-d ,wolsey1 ,cardinal1 #ba      
,wood-,street cake1 #he ,wormwood cakes1
 #acj   --wine1 #bjd ,wotton1 ,sir      
,edward1 #aid  ,yeoman1 diet of the1    

#ahb et seg41#bdc   --bad state of the1 
#ahi-ij ,yorkshire1 #ab ,young ,cook's  
,monitor1 the1 by ,m4,h41 #ge-g