,fascinating ,san ,francisco ,o ,warder of ,two ,continents6--,bret ,harte ,san ,francisco #aibd ,foreword ,enthroned on hills1 ,san ,francisco captivates the stranger who sees it from the ,bay by the vivacity of its landscape long before revealing any of its intimate lures4 ,whether you approach in the early morning1 when gulls arc wheeling above the palette of tones of the ,bay1 or at night1 when illuminated ferryboats glide by like the yellow-bannered halls of fable1 the buoyancy of ,san ,francisco is manifest4 ,it increases as you pass through the ,ferry ,building1 the turnstile behind the ,golden ,gate1 whose blithe tower of the four clock dials is reminiscent of the ,giralda in ,seville4 ,in another moment you are in the surge of ,market street1 the long bazaar and highroad of this port of all flags4 ,an invisible presence dances before your footsteps as you sense the animation of the street4 ,it is the spirit of ,san ,francisco1 weaving its debonair spell4 ,here ,tetrazzini turns street singer and ,jan ,kubelik is a wandering minstrel enchanting crowds at ,lotta's ,fountain under ,christmas eve stars4 ,from ,dana to ,stevenson1 from ,harte to ,mencken1 ,san ,francisco has captured the hearts of a train of illustrious admirers4 ,rudyard ,kipling1 master of the terse1 has tooled a brisk drypoint of the city in a few strokes4 ,san ,francisco has only one drawback1 he writes4 ',tis hard to leave4 ,cradled as a drowsy ,spanish pueblo1 reared as a child of the mines1 and fed on all the exhilarants of the gold-spangled days of the ,argonauts1 ,san ,francisco is like a dashing ,western beauty with the eyes of an exotic ancestry4 ,bristling with contradictions1 the city presents the paradox of being the most intensely ,american and yet the most cosmopolitan community on the continent1 with aspects as variable as the medley of alien tongues heard on its streets4 ,a festival of life is staged at this meeting place of the nations1 farthest outpost of ,aryan civilization in its westward march4 ,inez ,haynes ,irwin in her ,californiacs sounds a warning for the stranger in ,san ,francisco4 ,if you ever start for ,california with the intention of seeing anything of the state1 she admonishes1 do that before you enter ,san ,francisco4 ,if you must land in ,san ,francisco first1 jump into a taxi1 pull down the curtain1 drive through the city1 breaking every speed law1 to ,third and ,townsend1 sit in the station until a train--some train1 any train-- pulls out1 and go with it4 ,if in crossing ,market street you raise that curtain as much as an inch1 believe me1 stranger1 it's all off2 you're lost4 ,you'll never leave ,san ,francisco4 ,this booklet aims to keep the curtain up4 ,inside the ,gate ,if you turn a map showing the basin of ,san ,francisco ,bay so that the ,pacific ,ocean is nearest your eye1 you see a peninsula thrust out from the ,california coast like a great boot4 ,san ,francisco stretches for six or seven miles across the toe of the boot4 ,dominated by hills1 the city is flanked by the ,pacific on the west and by the ,bay on the north and east4 ,to the northwest1 joining ocean and bay1 is the ,golden ,gate1 the only gap in the coastal mountains4 ,constantinople and ,rio de ,janeiro have been called the only maritime cities that approach the natural beauty of situation of ,san ,francisco4 ,the basin of the ,bay1 into which the ,sacramento and ,san ,joaquin rivers pour after watering the central garden valley of the state1 is an amphitheatre rimmed with peaks and ridges4 ,the ,bay spreads out below ,san ,francisco like an animated poster keyed in blue and silver1 with ,yerba ,buena1 ,alcatraz and ,angel islands tinted details in the foreground4 ,across the gleaming water the roofs of ,oakland1 ,berkeley and ,alameda are shingled with sun crystals1 and in the distance ,tamalpais and ,mt4 ,diablo bulk against a curtain of azure4 ,suavities of outline accent the horizons of ,san ,francisco1 where the skyscrapers take on fantasy as they pile up on hills and recede into vales4 ,most visitors cross the ,bay and arrive at the city by way of the ,ferry ,building1 the gala tower of which has a clock at each point of the compass4 ,travelers also arrive at the ,third and ,townsend street railroad station1 or1 if they come by sea through the ,golden ,gate1 at the piers along the waterfront4 ,market street stretches diagonally across the peninsula from the ,ferry ,building to the base of ,twin ,peaks1 the urban mountain which has been tunneled to get rapid transit to residence parks4 ,twin ,peaks is practically the geographical center of ,san ,francisco4 ,by keeping this in mind visitors will avoid the mistake of thinking that the end of ,market street is the western boundary of the city4 ,from the sweep of ,market street radiate practically all of the city's important arteries4 ,a resplendent thoroughfare by day1 #ajj feet wide1 ,market street takes on a sorcery all its own at night1 when the electroliers designed by ,d',arcy ,ryan1 light wizard of the ,panama-,pacific ,exposition1 flood it with radiance4 ,market street is then the most dazzling of boulevards1 every aspect of it in motion--crowds1 taxis1 cars and the colors of advertising displays4 ,the junction formed by ,market1 ,kearny1 ,geary and ,third streets is the heart of downtown ,san ,francisco4 ,it is the newspaper center1 and close by are big and little hotels1 shops1 restaurants and sidewalk flower stalls4 ,here traffic eddies around ,lotta's ,fountain1 presented to the city by ,lotta ,crabtree1 stage idol of the yesteryears4 ,beside it is one of the bronze bells and iron standards that mark ,el ,camino ,real--the ,king's ,highway--which the padres trod in making their rounds of the early ,california missions4 ,lotta's ,fountain has two tablets4 ,one has its donor's name1 and the other is inscribed to ,luisa ,tetrazzini1 whose soprano was first acclaimed to the world from ,san ,francisco1 and who crossed the continent to sing ,christmas carols to the people on this street corner in #aiaj4 ,one block east1 ,montgomery street leads into the financial center of the ,pacific4 ,to the west are ,union ,square and its shaft1 commemorating ,dewey's victory at ,manila ,bay1 and ,powell street1 with its cafe and theatre crowds4 ,a short walk out ,market street takes you to the ,civic ,center1 with the ,city ,hall1 ,library1 ,auditorium and ,state ,building grouped about a formal garden4 ,the ,war ,memorial1 with its ,opera ,house and ,american ,legion ,museum1 will face the ,city ,hall on ,van ,ness avenue4 ,fronting the ,pacific1 ,san ,francisco1 which covers a trifle over #db square miles of territory1 has an ocean beach extending for three miles on its western boundary and overlooked by automobile highways4 ,street cars1 starting at the ,ferry ,building1 arrive at the beach after traversing residence districts and scenic routes1 unfolding views of hills1 forests1 parks1 forts1 lighthouses and seals on rocks lashed by surf4 ,between the ,ferry ,building and the ocean front--what a sweeping canvas it would take to suggest all this even in broad outline6 ,the ships1 towers1 domes1 theatres which ,wordsworth saw from ,westminster ,bridge in ,london are here1 and so are the added motifs of ,san ,francisco's own song of seduction4 ,sea ,glamour ,ever has the glamour of the sea enveloped ,san ,francisco4 ,from the sea came ,don ,juan ,manuel ,ayala in the ,san ,carlos in #agge1 charting a course through the fog and opening the ,golden ,gate4 ,from the1 sea also came the ,argonauts1 transforming the somnolent ,yerba ,buena into the city1 of ,san ,francisco4 ,and from the sea1 up to the time of the railroad1 came practically all of the goods with which the merchants of the city did business4 ,today with the sea ebbs and flows the tide of wealth that makes ,san ,francisco the key port of the ,pacific4 ,the banks and exchanges of ,california and ,montgomery streets1 the foreign trade and insurance offices of ,pine street1 the downtown skyscrapers--all reflect in some way ,san ,francisco's debt to the sea4 ,from the sea also comes health4 ,the breezes that blow from it and the fogs that drift down over the ridges combine to give ,san ,francisco a paradoxical climate--winters as warm as those in the south and summers that are matchless for their exhilarating coolness4 ,san ,francisco shows a higher per capita industrial output than any other ,american city of its class because of its ideal working conditions4 ,a city conscious of its obligation to the sea1 ,san ,francisco has always been interested in its waterfront1 which perpetuates ,spanish origins in its expressive name of ,embarcadero--the embarking place4 ,the skyline of the city is no longer stenciled by the towering masts of sailing ships discharging or loading cargo1 or lying in the stream or in ,richardson's ,bay awaiting charters1 as in the days when wheat was king of ,california's great central valley4 ,the virility of the waterfront of ,san ,francisco1 however1 is as persistent as in the age that provided ,frank ,norris with his epic themes4 ,the masts and yards of older outline have given place to stubby cargo booms of liners1 freighters and tramps of multiple flags and nationalities4 ,along the ,embarcadero they disgorge upon massive concrete piers silk1 rice and tea from the ,orient1 coffee from ,central ,america1 hemp and tobacco from the ,philippines1 and all manner of odds and ends from everywhere4 ,on the piers commodities are piled in apparent confusion1 yet each lot moves with precision in or out of yawning holds at the shrill blast of the foreman's hoist whistle4 ,along the ,embarcadero you may see craft of every rig under the sun from a ,chinese junk to a ,transpacific passenger liner4 ,human types are even more contrasting1 knots of ,chinese and ,singalese strolling behind ,south ,sea ,islanders1 ,portuguese or ,cornishmen1 whose speech recalls snatches you may have heard on the ,east ,india ,dock ,road in ,london4 ,jack ,london heard and answered the call of the sea from the ,embarcadero of ,san ,francisco1 and ,stevenson found the atmosphere of his ,wreckers there4 ,sailors--trade winds--ships--what lurking thoughts of adventure1 realized or denied1 do they not summon in all of us8 ,historic ,background ,in #aegi1 before ,jamestown1 the ,massachusetts ,bay ,colony1 or ,new ,amsterdam were settled1 ,sir ,francis ,drake1 ,british explorer1 careened and repaired his ship1 the ,golden ,hind1 on the shore of what is now ,drake's ,bay1 an indentation on the ,california coast just north of the ,golden ,gate4 ,this was nearly two hundred years before ,padre ,junipero ,serra led his band of zealots and soldiers up out of ,new ,spain into ,alta ,california4 ,at ,drake's ,bay the chaplain of the ,golden ,hind held the first religious service in the ,english language on the ,american continent--a service that is commemorated by a ,celtic cross set up on a hill in ,golden ,gate ,park1 ,san ,francisco4 ,though close by1 ,drake did not find the ,bay and site of ,san ,francisco4 ,it was not until ,october #ca1 #agfi1 that the peninsula and ,bay of ,san ,francisco were discovered by an expedition headed by ,don ,gaspar de ,portola1 ,governor of ,baja or ,lower ,california4 ,this expedition had set out overland from ,san ,diego for the purpose of locating ,monterey ,bay1 discovered in #afjc by ,sebastian ,vizcaino1 ,portuguese navigator in the service of ,spain4 ,six years after the ,portola discovery1 ,don ,juan ,manuel ,ayala sailed the first vessel1 the ,san ,carlos1 through the ,golden ,gate4 ,the following year the first permanent settlement by white men on the site of ,san ,francisco was made when ,colonel ,juan ,bautista de ,anza established a military post at the ,presidio beside the ,golden ,gate4 ,in this same month1 ,july1 #aggf1 the ,liberty ,bell was ringing in ,philadelphia4 ,but there was no thought then that the embattled farmers of the ,atlantic coast should inherit before many years this potential ,spanish settlement on the ,pacific4 ,in ,october1 #aggf1 ,padre ,junipero ,serra founded the ,mission ,dolores1 the third of the chain of missions extending from ,san ,diego4 ,subsequently a settlement was made at ,yerba ,buena ,cove1 and there was established the pueblo of ,yerba ,buena which has grown into the city of ,san ,francisco4 ,things moved slowly in those days--so slowly that in #aghd the pueblo had but fourteen houses and sixty inhabitants4 ,let us turn back the hands of the clock to the time when the pueblo straggled over the sand hills which faced the water of the bay of ,saint ,francis1 under the shadow of ,loma ,alta4 ,what do we see8 ,where today the ,merchants ,exchange ,building1 central office of ,san ,francisco's commercial life1 heaves its bulk into the air was the cabin of ,jacob ,leese1 trader4 ,houses were few and far between1 and business was something to be done when there was nothing else to do4 ,from the ,plaza1 then but a block or so from the waterside1 two main roads trailed off through the sand dunes4 ,one went to the southwest1 winding among the hills toward the ,mission ,dolores1 and the other in a generally northwesterly direction out past the lagoon of the washerwomen to the ,presidio of ,san ,francisco1 the seat of the military government4 ,sleepy1 content to bask in the sunshine that flooded its sand hills and kept back the banks of fog that loomed above the higher eminence's separating the cove from the ocean1 ,yerba ,buena dreamed1 not of the future in store for it1 but of the next fiesta1 of the coming barbecue at ,miguel ,noe's rancho1 or of the projected cock fight on ,sunday at the ,mission ,dolores4 ,to this port came occasionally a ,yankee whale ship for fresh water1 or some enterprising trader with shawls and combs and trinkets for the women1 to barter for hides and tallow with the dons from the south and the great interior ranchos4 ,up the coast some ,russians had established a settlement1 much to the disquiet of the authorities1 who looked upon this as an encroachment of barbarians menacing ,spanish power4 ,rezanov1 plenipotentiary of the ,czar1 was a man of charming personality1 however1 and was able to lull the suspicions of the indolent ,spanish officials and lay his plans for a coup that never took place4 ,from afar ,britain looked with interest upon this strip of coast with its matchless harbor1 and regretted that ,drake had not discovered it when he wintered his ship close by in #aegi4 ,thus ,yerba ,buena sprawled and dreamed in the sunshine1 unmindful of the web of destiny being woven about it4 ,followed then the war with ,mexico and the occupation by the officers and men of the ,united ,states sloop-of-war ,portsmouth under ,commodore ,john ,montgomery1 who broke the ,american flag to the breeze in the ,plaza4 ,in #ahdh gold was discovered by ,james ,w4 ,marshall in the tail-race of ,general ,sutter's mill1 ,el ,dorado county1 and almost overnight ,san ,francisco was transformed from a hamlet into a pulsing city1 overcome with the rush of newcomers1 the population in two years growing almost to twenty thousand4 ,california became a state in #ahej without ever having gone through a probationary period as a territory4 ,in the late sixties the great ,comstock ,lode1 in ,nevada1 poured a flood of wealth into ,san ,francisco1 and in #ahfi1 one hundred years after the first white man looked upon ,san ,francisco ,bay1 came the railroad1 bringing an increasing influx of people from the ,east4 ,the opening of the markets of ,china and ,japan led to the establishment of a trade that has made ,san ,francisco the focal port of the ,west4 ,these were the beginnings of ,san ,francisco4 ,burned to the ground three times in the early years of its existence1 the city displayed an invincible fortitude and each time capitalized disaster to build anew with larger faith in its destiny4 ,when again1 in #aijf1 earthquake and fire devastated the city its phoenix spirit came to life4 ,the ,argonauts lived once more1 magnificent in their resolution4 ,the renaissance was a prodigy that made onlookers exclamatory4 ,jules ,jusserand1 ,ambassador of ,france to the ,united ,states1 phrased the wonder of it in majestic prose3 ,the page written by the inhabitants of ,san ,francisco on the moving ashes of their city is not one that any wind will ever blow away4 ,survivals of the ,past ,stand at the ,ferry ,building1 looking up ,market street1 and imagine the beginning of the city that spreads before you4 ,first of all you must realize that this point of observation would1 in those days1 have been offshore1 on the shallow water of ,yerba ,buena ,cove4 ,to the right is the scarp of ,telegraph ,hill1 from which ships coming through the ,golden ,gate were sighted1 and to the left is the lesser ,rincon ,hill1 which is being cut away to provide a light manufacturing district4 ,these marked the headlands of the cove1 and the waterfront curved inland as far as what is now the site of the ,donahue monument to mechanics at ,market and ,battery streets4 ,seeking survivals of the past1 you must realize that ,san ,francisco is one of the most modern of the comparatively old ,american cities4 ,most of the area that saw its beginning and early history has been wiped clean by fire4 ,the ,san ,francisco of today may be said to date from its rebuilding following #aijf1 since which time something like a half billion dollars' worth of new construction has been done4 ,yet something of early ,san ,francisco remains1 either beyond the reach of the devastation of eighteen years ago or in miraculous islands of safety in that sea of fire4 ,the ,presidio1 beside the ,golden ,gate1 is several miles from the area that burned4 ,it is one of the largest military posts in the ,united ,states1 #a1ejj acres of forested hills between the inner and the outer harbor4 ,the adobe building in which ,rezanov1 envoy of the ,czar1 wooed ,senorita ,arguello1 daughter of the commandante of the ,presidio1 is preserved in the center of the reservation4 ,you can read about this sad romance in ,bret ,harte or in ,gertrude ,atherton4 ,over the hills southward from the ,presidio1 in a sheltered valley1 where it was spared from the fire1 stands ,mission ,dolores1 with its ancient churchyard and headstones4 ,the old mission1 whose adobe walls are four feet thick1 stands beside a new church of ,spanish architecture4 ,near the entrance to ,mission ,dolores1 set in red tiles on the floor1 is a marble slab marking the tomb of the ,noe family1 ,spanish grandees4 ,interesting relics are in evidence4 ,early mission bells hang in the facade of the old building4 ,the tomb of ,don ,luis ,arguello1 first governor of ,california under the ,mexican regime1 is in the churchyard4 ,inscriptions on many of the stones in this burial place are footnotes to ,san ,francisco's early history4 ,within the burned area of #aijf1 above the original waterfront of the days when the water came up to ,montgomery street1 there are several blocks of buildings which were spared by freaks of fate4 ,these buildings stand near the original ,plaza now called ,portsmouth ,square4 ,it was here ,commodore ,john ,montgomery landed from the ,portsmouth and raised the ,stars and ,stripes on ,july #d1 #ahdf1 almost the seventieth anniversary of the establishment of the ,spanish ,presidio4 ,the site of his landing1 at what is now ,clay and ,montgomery streets1 has been marked by one of the bronze tablets on which the order of the ,native ,sons of the ,golden ,west has graven many of the historic episodes of ,california4 ,not far away1 on the south side of ,sacramento street1 between ,davis and ,front1 there is a brick building marked by a tablet as the site of ,fort ,gunnybags1 headquarters of the ,vigilance ,committee1 which in #ahef hanged ,casey and ,cora1 two enemies of law and order1 from its windows4 ,in ,portsmouth ,square itself1 token of a gentler spirit1 there stands a drinking fountain in memory of ,robert ,louis ,stevenson4 ,that prince of idlers and of prose spent many an hour on the sunny benches of this square4 ,the streets nearby1 where stand the few buildings that escaped the fire1 echo the footsteps of ,stevenson1 of ,mark ,twain and ,bret ,harte4 ,the ,hall of justice faces the square4 ,the ,parrott building1 erected in #ahec by ,chinese labor with stone brought from ,china1 remains standing at ,california and ,montgomery streets4 ,around the ,plaza centered the life of the pueblo and of the early city of ,san ,francisco1 but now on three sides of it is ,chinatown1 the fashionable homes having long been gone from this section4 ,in ,golden ,gate ,park1 beside a lake reflecting their outline1 stand marble columns that once flanked a doorway on ,nob ,hill1 which rises above the ,oriental quarter4 ,this relic has been named ,portal of the ,past4 ,it symbolizes the old ,san ,francisco that is gone save for a few traces1 for this is1 after all1 a new city4 ,it is in the ,san ,francisco of today1 with a historic background that survives in spirit instead of in material reminders1 that interest is dominant4 ,cafes and ,bright ,lights ,there's a diabolical mystery to your ,san ,francisco6 ,enrico ,caruso once exclaimed4 ,why isn't everyone fat in this city of such excellent cafes8 ,the ,argonauts who came to ,california in quest of the ,golden ,fleece were hearty1 eaters1 and they laid the foundation for a tradition of abundant table fare that has been handed down since the days of the bonanza kings4 ,good things to eat have been provided by successive generations of chefs who have achieved virtuosity4 ,by and large1 the moderation of prices has been a matter of bewilderment to visitors4 ,the cheapness of savory food was one of the outstanding traits of ,san ,francisco1 in the opinion of the army of newspaper correspondents attracted to the ,democratic national convention in #aibj4 ,maurice ,baring1 the ,british author and globetrotter1 goes into raptures over the cooking he discovered in a ,pine street restaurant4 ,read his ,round the ,world in ,any ,number of ,days and satisfy yourself that a sophisticated observer from ,london town can become as ecstatic as a ,gaul in the presence of soup a l'oignon4 ,there's a diversity to the restaurants of ,san ,francisco that makes it difficult to single out any one type4 ,french and ,italian restaurants appear to predominate1 but the number of other places1 including ,spanish1 ,greek1 ,mexican1 ,hungarian and ,slavonic--not to mention ,chinese--makes the array a long and polyglot one4 ,in the vicinity of ,broadway1 ,kearny and ,columbus avenue1 streets that penetrate the heart of the ,latin ,quarter1 and along upper ,montgomery street1 there are sufficient individual cafes to keep any explorer after atmospheric epicurism busy for many days4 ,neither ,soho nor ,montmartre is plagiarized in these places4 ,they are foreign in tone1 but they belong very much to ,san ,francisco4 ,what affectation and posturing there may be in ,greenwich ,village are not in evidence here4 ,joy was at times given boisterous expression in the days before the great drought came upon the land4 ,but the eighteenth amendment and its restrictions have not deprived any of these places of their inherent buoyancy1 even though they may not be as noisy as ,coffee ,dan's4 ,table d'hote courses are customary not only in the ,french restaurants but in most of the ,italian as well4 ,some of these places combine or interchange the menus of ,french1 ,italian and ,swiss chefs1 a piquant entree1 or shellfish served bordelaise1 being followed by a paste like lasagne1 spaghetti or tagliarini1 or by those geometric ravioli whose delights are in inverse ratio to their square4 ,if you want fare of the realm the dining rooms and grills of the hotels are at your service1 as are the restaurants along ,market1 ,powell and other streets4 ,the cafeteria has come northward and the tea-room and the ,southern inn westward by way of ,new ,york4 ,the typical ,san ,francisco restaurant1 however1 is an institution as firmly imbedded in the life of the people as is ,mile ,rock in the current of the ,golden ,gate4 ,the sea glamour is upon the dining places of ,san ,francisco4 ,any impression of them would be lacking without some reference to sea food4 ,every variety of fish is sold fresh in the markets daily4 ,a number of so-called fish grottos specialize in fish caught the same morning1 keeping them swimming in illuminated window-tanks4 ,crabs1 shrimps1 oysters1 clams and other varieties of shell fish1 including the abalone with its rainbow-tinted shell1 together with sanddabs1 pompano and rex sole1 serve to remind one that ,san ,francisco is washed on three sides by tides of the ,pacific4 ,perhaps when ,bret ,harte referred to ,san ,francisco as serene1 indifferent of ,fate1 he was thinking of ,sidney ,smith's declaration3 ,fate cannot harm me--,i have dined today6 ,when you think of eating in ,san ,francisco you think of bright lights and dancing4 ,in addition to the hotels1 you may dance at innumerable cafes4 ,influences of ,old ,spain dowered ,san ,francisco with an infatuation for the fiesta4 ,the city has always been dance-minded4 ,art ,hickman1 virtuoso of jazz orchestration1 was called to ,new ,york to have the ,follies on ,the ,roof dance to the exuberant strains he had evolved in ,san ,francisco4 ,patterns of new dance forms were derived by ,pavlowa from the wild rhythms she found on the old ,barbary ,coast4 ,the ,palais ,royal1 ,marquard's1 ,tait's-at-the-,beach1 the ,cliff ,house--but where is one to stop when he starts to name the ,san ,francisco cafes that attract dance crowds8 ,let's leave it to the classified lists in the telephone directories4 ,hotels ,wives and daughters of the men who awoke to find themselves millionaires in the days of the ,argonauts came to ,san ,francisco to explore the social thrills of the newly rich4 ,it is easy to understand why the hotels became the scenes of elaborate gaiety unmatched even in ,new ,york1 ,boston or the older communities4 ,haunts of the battling giants of the ,comstock mines and the railroad magnates1 the old ,palace1 ,occidental1 ,lick and ,baldwin hotels reflected their effulgent period4 ,the ,palace1 built by ,william ,c4 ,ralston1 has survived as a landmark of ,san ,francisco4 ,like ,shepheard's in ,cairo1 the ,palace is one of the gathering places of the traveling world4 ,the present hotel1 at ,market and ,new ,montgomery streets1 occupies the site of the old ,palace1 whose outer walls remained standing after the fire of #aijf and had to be blasted with dynamite to make room for the new structure--a tribute to the original builders4 ,the ,palace retains the outstanding aspects of the old hotel1 with added modern appointments4 ,the ,palm ,court1 which has decorative columns and a glass-domed roof1 is the social center of the hotel4 ,it is also the rendezvous of the political and business stalwarts of the city1 the ,palace being a clearing-house for diversified activities4 ,the ,rose ,bowl1 which has ,maxfield ,parrish's ,pied ,piper of ,hamelin1 attracts the set that dances when it dines4 ,perched like a ,parthenon on ,nob ,hill1 the acropolis of ,san ,francisco1 is the ,fairmont ,hotel commanding a view of the ,bay and the ,contra ,costa hills4 ,its ,venetian ,room1 its ,terrace and its ,ball ,room are among the features of the ,fairmont in keeping with its individual environment4 ,expansive lawns frame the ,renaissance architecture of the building1 which seen from the ,bay looks like a citadel inside the ,golden ,gate4 ,the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis1 fronting ,union ,square on ,powell street1 has a thousand rooms and is one of the distinctive institutions of ,san ,francisco4 ,the fire of #aijf damaged the building but left its steel frame and granite sheath intact1 and a banquet of business men was held there to celebrate the beginning of reconstruction4 ,when you think of the ,st4 ,francis you think of beautiful wall arrangements4 ,its ,garden ,court and ,fable ,room1 where ,la ,fontaine's diverting inventions serve as the motifs for murals1 attract the younger set for dancing and tea4 ,the ,tapestry ,room is a distinguished example of decorative treatment4 ,san ,francisco is the greatest hotel city in the world in proportion to population4 ,these pages necessarily skim only the surface of this aspect of the city's life4 ,there are some #b1jjj hotels1 records of the ,hospitality ,bureau of the ,chamber of ,commerce show1 each having rates scaled to meet the guests to whom it caters4 ,representatives of the ,hospitality ,bureau copy the names of arrivals at the hotels from the registers4 ,these names are classified according to interests and given to a ,hospitality ,committee made up of business men who personally greet arrivals1 bring them to the clubs1 and dispense other courtesies4 ,shops ,it was ,o4 ,henry1 caliph of phrases1 who called ,san ,francisco the ,bagdad of the ,west4 ,in doing so he must have had in mind its profusion of shops which stretch through the city like an endless bazaar4 ,midweek shopping crowds in ,san ,francisco are comparable to ,saturday afternoon crowds in other ,american cities4 ,this fact has been commented upon frequently by merchandising specialists1 and it has significance4 ,street population spells buying power1 and ,san ,francisco has larger shopping crowds every day of the year than any other city west of ,new ,york4 ,every day but ,sunday is a shopping day4 ,constant shopping by ,san ,francisco women gives stimulus to the city's retailers to comb world markets for the newest and most attractive offerings4 ,buyers are sent by the larger establishments not only to ,paris and other style centers1 but to all of the larger international trade fairs4 ,stocks in the shops reflect the enterprise of the retailers1 who not only display the latest modes1 but frequently create them4 ,the downtown shopping district spreads from ,market to all the streets that radiate from it1 from ,kearny westward1 well above ,powell4 ,market street itself is a continuous stretch of display windows4 ,grant avenue1 ,stockton1 ,powell1 ,o',farrell1 ,geary1 ,post and ,sutter streets are lined with department stores and intimate shops4 ,the ,richmond1 ,mission1 ,sunset and other out lying districts have their own sub-centers1 each crowded six days in the week with shoppers4 ,otherwise the downtown streets would be congested4 ,flower stands splash the street corners with color in the downtown shopping district1 and the wares glow in the show windows like exotic blooms under glass4 ,san ,francisco shows a market as complete and original in styles as any city in the country4 ,the excessive seasonal changes demanded in the ,east are not needed here4 ,san ,francisco is essentially an out-of-door city1 with three hundred odd days of clement weather1 made for the display of light raiment1 whether it be organdie dresses1 sports togs or afternoon frocks4 ,women of the city insist on being modish1 however1 so they wear furs with the airiest of apparel on the warmest days1 contradictory but vivacious apparitions4 ,even the ,chinese girls ape their ,western sisters and appear in brocaded mandarins with fur neck pieces4 ,the dash of ,san ,francisco women on the street1 as well as in the hotels and cafes1 is not a legend4 ,you may read about it in ,hergesheimer's iridescent detail1 but seeing is believing4 ,the art shops and the book shops of ,san ,francisco evoke the admiration of every visitor4 ,the art shops1 on ,post1 ,sutter and adjacent streets1 close to ,union ,square1 with their own galleries of paintings1 bronzes and marbles1 have showrooms that are more like museums than commercial establishments4 ,the book shops are in this same neighborhood4 ,they are well worth visiting1 several of the dealers being publishers of the works of ,california authors4 ,chinatown and ,foreign ,colonies ,from its beginning as a ,spanish trading post to the present time there has always been something essentially foreign about ,san ,francisco4 ,always there have been foreign elements1 with well-marked colonies1 districts or haunts4 ,to visitors ,chinatown appears to exercise the greatest appeal among the foreign colonies4 ,the ,latin ,quarter1 the ,spanish and ,mexican districts out toward the end of ,powell street at the ,bay1 the ,japanese streets east of ,fillmore1 and the ,greek settlement centering around ,third and ,folsom are all1 however1 highly expressive of their habitants4 ,with its pagoda-like roofs1 its bazaars1 its restaurants of amazing orchestration and stranger ,east-,west decoration1 it is easy to4 understand why ,chinatown sways the imagination of wayfarers in ,san ,francisco4 ,every street and alley in it is obviously exotic4 ,life appears here like a festival1 and both the eye and the ear are beguiled by fantastic nuances4 ,silks1 ivories1 porcelains and bronzes peer from the shop windows at hesitant purchasers like the articles of virtu flung before the bewildered gaze of readers by ,balzac in his ,wild ,ass's ,skin4 ,you are diverted by the bizarre on all sides1 ,grant avenue1 the main artery of ,chinatown1 stretching before you in a many-hued arabesque of shop fronts1 no two quite alike in tone or in the stuff they have to sell4 ,the shops of the jewelers1 who perform miracles of craftsmanship in gold fliagree and in jade1 are especially interesting1 the sensitive-fingered artisans working at benches set in the windows in full view of passersby4 ,the meat and fish stalls1 the apothecaries1 the cobblers who work on the sidewalks1 the lily and the bird vendors1 the telephone exchange where ,chinese girls operate the switchboard1 the headquarters of the ,six ,companies1 the ,joss ,house and the ,chinese theatre1 spilled over into the ,latin ,quarter1 are among the sights much written about by globe-trotting notetakers in the quarter4 ,organized sightseeing tours may be made through ,chinatown with licensed guides1 but visitors can wander securely about at will4 ,it is no longer the subterranean ,chinatown of opium-scented years1 but it is still the most interesting foreign quarter in ,america4 ,charles ,dana ,gibson called it a bit of ,hongkong and ,canton caught in a ,western frame4 ,by continuing out ,grant avenue to ,columbus avenue the stroller visiting ,chinatown reaches the street that places him in the heart of the ,latin ,quarter1 its ,italian and ,french restaurants1 and its manners and customs that make it an epitome of ,naples and ,rome4 ,in the ,greek settlement in the vicinity of ,third and ,folsom streets you will see narghile water pipes displayed in the windows alongside ,russian brasses and ,byzantine ware4 ,if you crave the cooking of ,attica and the honey-sweets of the ,grecian archipelago you can get them here4 ,hills and ,vistas ,what city built on hills has not been exalted in song and legend8 ,san ,francisco1 like ,athens1 ,jerusalem1 ,rome and ,naples1 has the spell that comes from setting one's house on a high place4 ,those who can look out over the world are those who dominate it4 ,history shows that every three hundred years a great city arises at some very necessary and strategic point on the international highway4 ,such an inevitable world city is ,san ,francisco4 ,whether it is the ragged slope of ,telegraph ,hill1 the heights of ,twin ,peaks1 the rolling green-brown softness of the ,potrero bluffs1 or the contours of any of the other high places that confront the visitor approaching from the ,bay1 the hills of ,san ,francisco arrest the eye and intrigue the imagination4 ,to the visitor who would comprehend almost at a glance the cycloramic setting of ,san ,francisco the way is easy of access to half a dozen peaks4 ,there are good automobile roads to all of them4 ,let him for a start go to ,nob ,hill1 crossed by ,california street1 where the ,fairmont ,hotel1 the ,pacific ,union ,club1 ,grace ,cathedral and many distinctive residences and apartments will engage his attention when it is not occupied with the shipping in the harbor1 ,goat and ,alcatraz islands1 and the animated perspectives inside the ,golden ,gate4 ,russian ,hill1 of which ,nob ,hill is a southward shoulder1 is the habitat of many of the writer and painter folk of ,san ,francisco4 ,it affords superb panoramas of the city and bay4 ,so does ,telegraph ,hill1 whose sides have been scarred to provide rock for the sea wall along which the modern argosies of commerce discharge their cargoes4 ,views northwesterly from these hilltops suggest the ,bay of ,naples4 ,the most comprehensive close-up of the city is probably obtained from the crest of ,buena ,vista ,park1 which is not the highest of the fourteen good-sized hills in ,san ,francisco but the one from which the most unobstructed views are to be obtained4 ,tourists and other visitors to ,san ,francisco who enjoy walking will find1 rambling over this height most interesting4 ,street cars1 ,nos4 #f or #g1 will take you to ,haight and ,broderick streets1 from which point many paths lead to the top of the hill4 ,at every turn there is an effective view4 ,through a tunnel-like alley of shrubbery the towers of ,st4 ,ignatius1 with crosses pointing to the sky1 loom like spires from one of the cathedral towns of ,france4 ,as you swing 'round you obtain glimpses from different angles of the skyscrapers of ,san ,francisco1 with every now and then a stretch of glistening water4 ,from the summit of ,buena ,vista you see1 on three sides1 expanses of ocean and bay4 ,to the left is the diamond of ,lake ,merced in its setting of bluegreen eucalyptus and its surrounding waves of sand1 ribboned with roads extending to the ocean beach4 ,beyond is the emerald stretch of ,golden ,gate ,park1 with buildings in demi-outline through the changing tones of foliage4 ,above and beyond are the rolling hills of the ,presidio1 and in the distance ,tamalpais rears its friendly bulk1 a dark blue shadow against a cerulean mantle1 crowned at times with filmy gonfalons of cloud like a color print by ,hokusai4 ,lone ,mountain and its cross1 visible far out at sea1 is here in conspicuous range4 ,to see ,san ,francisco in a series of highly colored pictures suggestive of ,maxfield ,parrish or ,dulac go to the scenic boulevard that winds over ,twin ,peaks4 ,you may motor there1 walk or take a street car to the foot of this city mountain1 the ascent either way being easy4 ,you may scale ,twin ,peaks from the flank within view of ,market street1 climbing along the side and over the shoulder by way of the boulevard4 ,or if you prefer1 you may climb up from ,sloat ,boulevard via ,portola ,drive through one of the city's restricted residence sections4 ,on the summit of ,twin ,peaks you feel at the top of the world1 and you see ,san ,francisco spread out below you as multicolored as a rug of ,kermanshah4 ,no other city in the two ,americas1 not excepting ,quebec or ,rio de ,janeiro1 so overwhelms the beholder with its vistas--with its luminous enchantments4 ,at night the lights of the city zigzag in patterns of distracting loveliness1 and ,market street reaches from the foot of the mountain to the ,embarcadero like the tail of some flaming comet athwart a sea of stars4 ,parks and ,open ,spaces ,surmounted by a freighted galleon1 with streaming pennant and wind-filled sails1 a granite pedestal remembers ,robert ,louis ,stevenson in ,portsmouth ,square1 cradle of ,san ,francisco's civic history4 ,this square1 the ,plaza of the early city1 was the forerunner of a chain of parks1 children's playgrounds and open spaces that checkers ,san ,francisco with refreshing green4 ,farther uptown is ,union ,square1 in the center of the hotel and retail district4 ,over on the other side toward ,north ,beach1 at the foot of ,telegraph ,hill1 is ,washington ,square1 one of the recreation spots of the ,latin ,quarter1 with church spires outlined above its willows4 ,a park that will command the entire harbor is being built on top of ,telegraph ,hill4 ,in the ,western ,addition1 ,richmond1 ,sunset and ,mission districts are many parks that provide resting places for mothers1 their infants in go-carts1 and romping children4 ,golden ,gate ,park is the aureole of ,san ,francisco's recreational haunts4 ,it was saved to the city in the beginning by ,frank ,mc,coppin and ,c4 ,r4 ,dempster and made an area of living beauty by ,john ,mc,laren1 ,scotch landscape engineer1 who is ,superintendent of ,parks4 ,from the panhandle at ,baker street to the ,ocean ,beach1 the park stretches like a massive gold-green buckler enameled with lustrous gems4 ,there are #ajac acres in the park1 its ,main ,drive1 including the panhandle1 being #d #a_/b miles long4 ,whether you loiter along tree-shaded alleys1 or stroll through rhododendron dells in the late ,spring1 when the landscape fairly quivers with color1 there is an ineffable loveliness about ,golden ,gate ,park4 ,its opulence is heightened by its contrasts1 as are all well-considered landscape designs4 ,treading the expanse of daisy-starred emerald lawns1 loitering under the elms in the ,band ,concourse1 or wandering through the dwarf trees patterned against humpback bridges in the ,japanese ,tea ,garden1 you find new lures in ,golden ,gate ,park with each successive visit4 ,the de ,young ,memorial ,museum1 the ,academy of ,sciences1 the ,steinhart ,aquarium1 ,stow ,lake1 the ,dutch windmills1 ,huntington ,falls1 the aviary1 the buffalo paddock1 the bear pit1 the children's playground with its goats and donkeys1 the tennis courts1 the harness racing in the ,stadium1 the bowling on the green--almost every rod of the thousand odd acres in the park unfolds unexpected allurements4 ,on a hill in the park is the granite cross which commemorates the first church service in the ,english language on the ,american continent1 held in #aegi by ,sir ,francis ,drake's chaplain on the coast just north of the ,golden ,gate4 ,a copy of ,rodin's bronze ,thinker is here4 ,the ,portal of the ,past1 taken from a ,nob ,hill residence after the fire of #aijf1 is seen in idyllic whiteness against a clump of ,irish yews across the luminous water of a lake that picks up their outline like a ,renaissance picture4 ,statuary1 classic and modern1 arrests interest at every turn in the park4 ,among the figures and busts are those of ,junipero ,serra1 ,general ,grant1 ,goethe1 ,schiller1 ,cervantes1 ,general ,pershing and ,president ,garfield4 ,at the extreme westerly end of the park1 fronting the sea whose perils it braved1 is the sloop ,gjoa in which ,captain ,roald ,amundsen cut one of the ,gordian knots of exploration and found and navigated the ,northwest ,passage4 ,lincoln ,park1 with a municipal golf course on a headland overlooking the ,golden ,gate1 affords a distant but luring view of ,san ,francisco4 ,in ,lincoln ,park is a replica of the ,palace of the ,legion of ,honor in ,paris1 gift of ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,a4 ,b4 ,spreckels as a memorial to ,san ,francisco's soldiers in the world war4 ,in addition to its art treasures it was built to house trophies from all the fronts on which the ,american expeditionary forces fought1 ,marshal ,foch and other commanders having interested themselves in the collection4 ,the ,palace of ,fine ,arts on the ,marina close to the ,presidio1 with its masterpieces from the ,phoebe ,a4 ,hearst and other collections1 is a short drive from ,lincoln ,park4 ,the city's ,aquatic ,park is close by4 ,sutro ,heights1 with its gardens1 classic marbles and outlook upon the sea1 is near the ,cliff ,house above the ,ocean ,beach4 ,the ,seal ,rocks and the ,sutro baths are in sight of these heights4 ,san ,francisco has established a new playground for children at the end of ,sloat ,boulevard1 with a second municipal golf course and the largest outdoor swimming pool in the world among its attractions4 ,music and ,drama ,hasty reading of annals makes some people gather the mistaken impression that ,san ,francisco's dramatic and musical history had its genesis when miners threw gold nuggets at the feet of ,lotta ,crabtree4 ,but it has been pointed out by one musical critic that the ,franciscan padres were chanting ,gregorian measures in the ,mission ,dolores when the battles of ,lexington and ,concord were being fought1 and that the ,indians were intoning hymns and staging miracle-plays for their sun-god in ,california before the landing of the ,pilgrims at ,plymouth ,rock4 ,san ,francisco not only discovered the gold in the soprano of ,luisa ,tetrazzini at the old ,tivoli ,opera ,house1 but it has figured in the triumphs of many luminaries of the musical and dramatic stage--from ,adelina ,patti and ,tamagno to ,mary ,garden and ,galli-,curci--from ,edwin ,booth and ,charles ,kean to ,john ,drew and ,henry ,miller4 ,celebrities braved the discomforts of trips across the continent from the earliest days because of the city's repute as a place where the people were not only responsive but arrived at their own independent judgments4 ,ysaye1 ,kreisler and ,mischa ,elman have esteemed the acclaim of audiences here as much as ,ole ,bull and ,wieniawski did in earlier days4 ,since the conversion of the ,tivoli into a motion picture theatre1 and pending the construction of the ,memorial ,opera ,house opposite the ,city ,hall1 the city hears most of its opera in the ,civic ,auditorium4 ,performances of the ,san ,francisco ,opera ,company1 with its local orchestra and chorus supporting international stars1 and of visiting troupes from ,new ,york and ,chicago in this auditorium provide two spectacles one on the stage and the other in the assemblage itself4 ,the auditorium seats #aj1jjj persons4 ,to be present when a prima donna awes this audience into silence by her tones1 and then to hear a triumphant roar of approval rend the silence1 is an unforgettable adventure of the spirit4 ,the ,symphony ,orchestra of ,san ,francisco is one of the ranking musical bodies of the ,united ,states4 ,no better symphonic music is played anywhere4 ,the concerts of this orchestra fill the ,civic ,auditorium to overflowing4 ,close to fifty per cent of the audiences are people attracted from surrounding cities4 ,the ,chamber ,music ,society has toured the ,united ,states and added to the musical prestige of the city4 ,the ,concerts of the ,bohemian ,club1 the ,pacific ,musical ,society1 the ,san ,francisco ,musical ,society and the ,loring ,club have definite places in the musical life of the community4 ,organ literature attracts many people to the recitals at the ,civic ,auditorium4 ,the pipe organ here was built for the ,panama-,pacific ,exposition4 ,it was subsequently rebuilt and presented to the city4 ,the theatres of ,san ,francisco that were famous in an earlier era are now names packed away in the lavender of remembrance4 ,today the city has new theatres of imposing appearance and large seating capacity4 ,the old stage personalities1 however1 troop through the writings of contemporary theatrical critics like deified shades4 ,the first managers of the old ,california theatre were ,lawrence ,barrett and ,john ,mc,cullough4 ,the foremost actors were drawn to the city1 including ,charles ,kean and ,edwin ,forrest4 ,the ,bush street theatre was conducted for fifteen years by ,m4 ,b4 ,leavitt4 ,it is difficult to be brief with the list of famous names4 ,david ,belasco1 born in ,san ,francisco1 was stage manager of the ,baldwin before he made theatrical history in ,new ,york4 ,david ,warfield made his first professional appearance at the old ,wigwam4 ,william ,a4 ,brady began his theatrical career in the city1 and so did ,al ,hayman4 ,holbrook ,blinn was a boy star in amateur theatricals4 ,at the ,alcazar1 ,san ,francisco's stock house1 many familiar players made their debuts1 including ,blanche ,bates1 ,frank ,bacon1 ,frances ,starr1 ,bert ,lytell and ,evelyn ,vaughn4 ,the ,orpheum theatre of ,san ,francisco is the mother house of the vaudeville circuit of that name1 which supplies entertainment to cities throughout the ,united ,states and has overseas affiliations4 ,the ,orpheum developed from a music hall conducted by ,gustav ,walter and the first building on the present site in ,o',farrell street1 off ,powell1 was erected in #ahhg4 ,universities ,like a tower of enlightenment the campanile of the ,university of ,california1 in ,berkeley1 is seen by visitors to ,san ,francisco whether they come through the ,golden ,gate from ,asia or approach the city by ferry from the terminals of the transcontinental railroads on the ,east ,bay shore4 ,it is likewise visible from the hills of ,san ,francisco4 ,this white shaft is symbolic of the opportunity offered to the world to educate its youth in ,san ,francisco4 ,within short motor rides from the city are three big universities4 ,in addition to the ,university of ,california at ,berkeley1 which has one of the largest enrollments of any institution of its kind in the ,united ,states1 there is ,stanford ,university at ,palo ,alto1 a privately endowed seat of learning with notably high standards of scholarship and a rigid limit on the number of its students1 and the ,university of ,santa ,clara1 which has trained many of ,california's public men and members of the bench and bar4 ,california and ,stanford are co-educational4 ,the ,university of ,california maintains in ,san ,francisco the ,hastings ,college of ,law1 the ,medical ,school1 the ,california ,school of ,fine ,arts1 the ,george ,william ,hooper ,foundation for ,medical ,research1 the ,california ,college of ,pharmacy and the ,museum of ,anthropology1 the latter being one of the buildings of the ,affiliated ,colleges1 overlooking ,golden ,gate ,park4 ,the ,hearst ,greek ,theatre at ,berkeley has done much to make the name of the ,university familiar abroad4 ,sarah ,bernhardt1 ,maude ,adams1 ,ben ,greet and ,margaret ,anglin have been among the notables to appear on its open air stage4 ,stanford ,university1 which numbers ,herbert ,hoover and many other famous men among its alumni1 maintains in ,san ,francisco the ,medical ,school and ,stanford and ,lane hospitals4 ,the campus in the ,santa ,clara ,valley is well worth seeing4 ,the sandstone quadrangles1 arcades and red tile roofs1 which reproduce the feeling of the early ,mission buildings1 are finely achieved examples of period motifs applied to collegiate architecture4 ,the ,stanford ,memorial ,church is especially interesting for its richly carved stone and colored ,italian mosaics1 on the exterior as well as within4 ,the ,university of ,santa ,clara1 conducted by the ,jesuits1 is located on the site of one of the ,missions established by the ,franciscans under ,junipero ,serra1 and its modern buildings incorporate the ancient structure4 ,in addition to these universities is ,mills ,college in ,oakland1 an institution for women of the type of ,wellesley1 ,vassar and ,bryn ,mawr4 ,the list of private schools and academies offering specialized instruction is a long one4 ,building bridges of understanding across the seas1 students attending the universities and other institutions in the ,san ,francisco ,bay region are playing roles in international relations that are just beginning to be realized4 ,h4 ,g4 ,wells should study them in drafting his outlines for world amity4 ,cliffs and ,beaches ,from ,fort ,scott west to ,fort ,miley and south to ,fort ,funston1 a distance of something over eight miles1 there is a line of cliffs and beach that is the ocean front of ,san ,francisco4 ,driving up from the eucalyptus-lined avenues of the ,presidio along a road that reveals perspectives of bay and hills1 you come out upon the cliffs that form the southern post of the ,golden ,gate and extend above the eastern and southern shore of the outer harbor1 with yellow beaches at their feet and with homes1 gardens and parks set along their edge4 ,from these cliffs is spread a vista of coast line and ocean with a sweep that extends as far north as ,point ,arena and as far west as the ,farallon ,islands1 rugged points of rock reaching out of the ocean depths twenty-three miles off shore1 and as far south as the azure thrust of ,point ,pedro4 ,drifting along the cliff highway1 which runs back of the fortifications that defend the port of ,san ,francisco1 you drop down past the dirigible hangar of the ,united ,states ,army ,flying ,corps4 ,you rise through ,sea ,cliff1 a residence section like a hanging garden over the ocean1 and come to ,lincoln ,park1 where the flagstaff that marks the terminus of the ,lincoln ,highway1 the end of a transcontinental trail1 is set4 ,following now a detour through city streets1 instead of the highway that will soon traverse the cliffs1 to the ,cliff ,house1 a resort foremost in the written and pictured annals of ,san ,francisco1 you glimpse three miles of sandy beach stretching southward to the jutting headlands of ,point ,pedro and you drop down to the boulevard that flanks the ,esplanade1 which the city is building as part of its playground plan4 ,here is ,san ,francisco's ,little ,coney ,island1 where the multitude comes on ,sundays by motor car and trolley1 with lunch baskets and children1 to frolic or rest on the sands that front the sea4 ,gay booths and kiosks skirt the ,esplanade1 where vendors are kept busy supplying their wares and where everyone appears as carefree as the gulls wheeling above the white breakers4 ,as you continue south along the beach you pass the chalet of the ,olympic ,club1 whose members sally forth on ,new ,year's ,day for their dip in the surf4 ,presently you reach the ,great ,highway1 which traverses the dykes of sand raised by wind and water as barriers against the ocean4 ,ahead of you are ,sloat ,boulevard and the ,skyline ,boulevard1 which1 skirting ,lake ,merced1 stretches south through the shore mountains1 its objective ,santa ,cruz1 on the blue bay of ,monterey4 ,this expanse of three miles of glistening sandy beach is a playground where the people may watch the ever-shifting panorama of sea and sky and hills4 ,seals can be seen sunning themselves on the rocks4 ,beyond them1 riding the swells1 are fishing boats1 and still farther out cargo carriers and passenger liners make for distant points or come seeking haven in the ,port of ,adventure--,san ,francisco4 ,clubs ,club life in ,san ,francisco has won the admiration of many men of letters and other visitors4 ,kipling says appreciative things about the ,bohemian ,club in his ,american ,notes that exceed anything written by its own historians4 ,julian ,street1 in his ,abroad at ,home1 says that with her hills ,san ,francisco is ,rome2 with her harbor she is ,naples2 with her hotels she is ,new ,york4 ,but with her clubs and her people she is ,san ,francisco1 which to my mind comes near being the apotheosis of praise1 he adds4 ,the ,bohemian ,club's devotion to music and drama finds expression beyond the plays and concerts at its town clubhouse4 ,in addition it owns a grove of redwoods in ,sonoma county1 where highjinks are staged every midsummer4 ,a grove play1 the book and music of which are written by members1 is the feature of the annual gathering which has spread the name of the ,bohemian ,club to many distant places4 ,this distinctive type of country annex is likewise enjoyed by ,the ,family1 a club which has in addition to its city quarters a redwood grove in ,san ,mateo county known as the ,farm1 where original drama and music are produced4 ,a bronze tablet in memory of ,bret ,harte is on the ,post street facade of the ,bohemian ,club1 near ,taylor4 ,characters from the prose and verse of the author are shown in bas-relief1 including ,salomy ,jane1 ,yuba ,bill1 ,tennessee's ,partner1 ,john ,oakhurst and the ,heathen ,chinee4 ,the ,olympic ,club1 the ,pacific ,union ,club on ,nob ,hill1 the ,university ,club1 the ,commonwealth1 the ,union ,league ,club1 the ,commercial1 the ,transportation1 the ,concordia1 the ,argonaut1 the ,engineers1 the ,army and ,navy1 the ,old ,colony and the ,press ,clubs are among the other organizations with well appointed quarters4 ,the ,knights of ,columbus1 ,masons1 ,elks and other fraternal orders have their own clubs4 ,the ,olympic ,club also maintains the ,lakeside ,country ,club with a golf course and trapshooting facilities4 ,the ,olympic is one of the oldest and largest athletic clubs in the country1 having over #ejjj members4 ,women's organizations owning or now building their own club houses include the ,francisca1 ,woman's ,athletic1 the ,california1 ,sequoia1 ,century1 ,sorosis1 ,town and ,country1 ,national ,league for ,woman's ,service1 ,city and ,county ,federation of ,women's ,clubs and the ,y4 ,w4 ,c4 ,a4 ,san ,francisco is a paradise for golfers1 and the courses of the various clubs have settings of exceptional natural beauty4 ,among them are those of the ,presidio ,golf ,club1 the ,california ,golf ,club1 the ,san ,francisco ,golf and the ,lake ,merced ,golf and ,country ,club on the ,rancho ,laguna de la ,merced4 ,the municipality maintains two golf courses1 one at--,lincoln ,park and one at ,lake ,merced4 ,across the ,bay1 in ,alameda and ,marin counties1 and down the peninsula are any number of country clubs4 ,the ,san ,francisco ,yacht ,club and the ,corinthian ,yacht ,club have club houses on the ,marin shore4 ,homes and ,gardens ,surface impressions of ,san ,francisco assail the visitor like colors in a gypsy's scarf lustrous and salient4 ,there is so much vivacity in the streets downtown1 so much to see in the haunts talked about1 that one is apt to overlook in a brief sojourn an outstanding characteristic of the city--its many distinctive homes4 ,hardly a month passes that is not marked by pages of appreciation in national architectural journals about the creative originality shown in the landscape gardening and in the structural conceptions achieved in the residence parks of ,san ,francisco4 ,in versatility of treatment the architects who have specialized in home building in the ,san ,francisco ,bay region have had their designs of contoured streets1 parterres1 terraces and plantings published more widely than those of their professional brethren in any other section of the country4 ,tour leisurely by motor car or afoot through the city if you would convince yourself how lovely the homes of ,san ,francisco are4 ,leave the traveled boulevards and journey out into the districts that lie along the hills north of ,washington street and west of ,van ,ness avenue as far as the ,presidio wall4 ,skirting that dividing line1 wander through the area between ,geary street and the military reservation4 ,pacific avenue1 ,broadway1 ,vallejo and the cross streets leading into them are built up with splendid homes1 outlined against inviting lawns and gardens4 ,there are noteworthy residence tracts in this section-- ,presidio ,terrace1 ,west ,clay ,park and ,sea ,cliff1 where homes that look like villas and chateaux perch on heights that afford a sweeping range of ocean1 hills and harbor entrance4 ,the district west of ,twin ,peaks1 which may be reached either by the ,municipal street cars that go out ,market street or by automobile1 has restricted residential areas that are reminiscent of the illustrations on the satiny pages of de luxe architectural folios4 ,rapid transit has brought country life to city dwellers in ,san ,francisco1 ,third and ,market streets being only twenty minutes away from ,st4 ,francis ,wood and its fountains and trees2 ,ingleside ,terraces2 ,westwood ,park1 lying along the lower slopes of ,mt4 ,davidson2 ,forest ,hill and other verdant home areas1 the tunnel through ,twin ,peaks making all this possible4 ,coming back downtown over the shoulder of ,twin ,peaks your eyes are bewildered in trying to chart the sea of roofs and gables that stretch over the ,mission district4 ,where once a few tiled adobes clustered around ,mission ,dolores1 founded by ,padre ,junipero ,serra1 now spread homes flooding the level places and gradually climbing up toward the tops of the hills that are like watchtowers over the ,golden ,gate4 ,san ,francisco ,outlines and ,insights ,area3 #db square miles4 ,climate3 ,cool summers and mild winters4 ,average summer temperature1 #ei degrees4 ,average winter temperature1 #ea degrees4 ,population3 #fhg1jjj in city2 #a1bjj1jjj in metropolitan area4 ,tax ,rate3 #c4dg per #ajj assessed value1 rate of assessment to market value of property being #ej per cent4 ,per ,capita ,wealth3 ,based on actual value of property1 the per capita wealth of ,san ,francisco1 #c1aae1 is the highest of any large city in the country4 ,foreign ,trade3 ,trade with foreign countries passing through the ,golden ,gate during the fiscal year #aibb-aibc totaled #cdc1cjg1efg1 of which exports amounted to #aeg1bdb1bij and imports #ahf1jfe1bgg4 ,industrial ,activity3 ,san ,francisco leads the cities of the ,pacific ,coast in the value of manufactured products1 the total annual volume of which is #ejj1jjj1jjj4 ,labor ,efficiency3 ,owing to equable climate1 labor efficiency is higher than in any other large center in the country1 the per capita output for ,san ,francisco being #f1hjd4ge4 ,money ,market of ,pacific3 ,san ,francisco ranks fifth in bank clearings in the ,united ,states4 ,total bank clearings for the year amount to #g1bgd1jjj1jjj4 ,deposits total #ice1aai1cgd4 ,total resources of the five national and thirty-one state banks were #a1caa1cfh1ejb in #aibc4 ,real ,estate and ,construction3 ,realty sales for the past year totaled #acb1bbg1dgh4 ,building totaled #cd1jgi1iif4 ,since #aijf new construction totals #ejj1jjj1jjj4 ,sightseeing ,tours3 ,descriptive folders and other literature may be obtained at the ,chamber of ,commerce and at the hotels and information bureaus in ,san ,francisco about trips supervised by licensed sightseeing companies4 ,some of the outstanding attractions of the city are detailed briefly here4 ,civic ,center3 ,one of the most impressive groups of public buildings to be seen in this country or abroad4 ,lands and buildings for this undertaking cost the people #bj1jjj1jjj4 ,the group includes the ,city ,hall1 ,public ,library1 ,state ,building and ,civic ,auditorium1 the latter seating #aj1jjj persons and being in demand for national conventions4 ,easy walk from downtown1 or by cars on ,market and ,polk streets1 or taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,san ,francisco ,bay3 ,discovered first from the land side by ,don ,gaspar de ,portola in #agfi4 ,ferryboats1 river steamers and launches may be taken by the visitor interested in becoming acquainted with the attractions of the ,bay1 including ,yerba ,buena 7,goat7 ,island1 with its ,naval ,receiving ,station2 ,alcatraz ,island1 shaped like a massive battleship and used as a military prison2 ,angel ,island1 ,united ,states immigration and quarantine station2 ,sausalito1 ,belvedere and ,tiburon1 towns framed against the brocade of hills2 ,oleum1 ,richmond1 ,martinez1 ,crockett and ,pittsburg1 with their big industrial plants2 the shipbuilding yards in ,san ,francisco1 ,oakland and ,alameda4 ,the ,golden ,gate3 ,don ,juan ,manuel ,ayala piloted the ,san ,carlos through this portal in #agge4 ,it was named the ,golden ,gate by ,general ,fremont1 ,the ,pathfinder4 ,sir ,francis ,drake landed in #aegi in a sheltered cove just outside the ,golden ,gate and his chaplain held the first religious service in the ,english language on the ,american continent4 ,this incident is memorialized by a ,celtic cross on a hill in ,golden ,gate ,park4 ,by ferryboats from ,ferry depot1 or via the ,presidio1 which see4 ,the ,presidio3 ,this is the largest military reservation within city boundaries in the ,united ,states4 ,its #a1ejj acres embrace many tree-bordered walks and driveways for motor cars4 ,rezanov1 plenipotentiary of the ,czar1 here wooed ,senorita ,arguello1 daughter of the ,spanish commandante of the ,presidio1 in an adobe building still standing in the reservation4 ,you may read about this tragic idyl in ,bret ,harte and ,gertrude ,atherton4 ,d car on ,geary street and ,union street car at ,ferry ,depot1 or taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,portsmouth ,square3 ,originally called the ,plaza1 this place figured largely in the early history of ,san ,francisco4 ,commodore ,john ,montgomery1 after whom ,montgomery street is named1 raised the flag here to herald ,american possession of ,california4 ,the ,vigilance ,committee used the ,plaza for public gatherings in their struggle against lawlessness4 ,the ,robert ,louis ,stevenson monument is here1 with his oft-quoted message carved on its face1 beginning ,to be honest1 to be kind1 to earn a little1 to spend a little less4 ,stevenson loved this square greatly and loitered here much4 ,easy walk from any place downtown1 or by ,kearny street car1 tax1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,mission ,dolores3 ,this ,mission was founded by ,father ,junipero ,serra in #aggf1 and its adobe walls remain in a remarkable state of preservation4 ,a new church of ,spanish architecture is beside it4 ,adjoining the old building is a burial ground1 the inscriptions on whose stones add to the interest of the paintings1 carvings and other relics in the ,mission4 ,j1 ,k and ,no4 #h cars on ,market street1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,telegraph ,hill3 ,from the top of this height flags and semaphores signaled the approach of ships with the ,argonauts in the early days4 ,the ,park ,commissioners are making it a recreation center4 ,one of the best views of the city1 its skyscrapers and the ,bay is obtained from the hill4 ,by cars on ,stockton and ,kearny street1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,russian ,hill3 ,many of the writers and painters of ,san ,francisco have their homes here4 ,there are also fine apartments1 terraced gardens and compensating walks1 unfolding views of the ,bay and distant hills4 ,by cars on ,stockton and ,union streets1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,fishermen's ,wharf3 ,harbor of the ,italian fishing fleet1 this has the aspect of a transplanted bit of the ,neapolitan coast even though it has been modernized with the employment of gasoline motor boats4 ,kearny and ,beach car to end of line and walk along the waterfront1 or by taxi or auto4 ,california ,palace of ,legion of ,honor3 ,a memorial to the soldiers of the world war1 this replica of the ,palace of the ,legion of ,honor of ,paris was built by ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,a4 ,b4 ,spreckels in ,lincoln ,park1 overlooking the ,golden ,gate1 to house art treasures and war relics4 ,by cars marked for ,ocean ,beach or ,cliff ,house1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,golden ,gate ,park ,memorial ,museum3 ,one of the outstanding attractions of the recreation center described elsewhere in this booklet4 ,by marked ,golden ,gate ,park cars on ,market and ,geary streets1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,palace of ,fine ,arts3 ,on the ,marina1 close to the ,presidio1 this handsomely proportioned building was preserved from the ,panama-,pacific ,exposition4 ,it houses an exhibition of painting1 statuary and objects of arts from the ,phoebe ,a4 ,hearst and other collections4 ,by ,d cars on ,geary street and ,union street car at ,ferry depot1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,ocean ,beach3 ,this playground of ,san ,francisco fronting the sea1 with the ,cliff ,house1 the ,esplanade1 ,sutro ,heights1 the ,sutro salt water baths and the ,seal ,rocks with their barking sea lions1 should be seen by every visitor to ,san ,francisco4 ,by marked cars on ,market1 ,geary and ,sutter streets1 or by taxi1 auto or sightseeing bus4 ,twin ,peaks--,its ,tunnel3 ,this city mountain1 nearly #a1jjj feet high1 is at the end of ,market street4 ,a scenic boulevard1 which may be traversed by motor or afoot1 winds over it1 affording a sweeping panorama of the city and ,bay4 ,running beneath the mountain is a tunnel carrying a double track street railway line4 ,this tunnel is the longest and deepest municipal bore in the world4 ,it cost #d1jjj1jjj4 ,the tunnel is two and one-fourth miles in length and was built to get rapid transit to residence districts4 ,by ,k tunnel car on ,market street1 or by taxi or auto4 ,golf--,sports3 ,san ,francisco has seven golf courses reached quickly by motor cars and street railway lines4 ,the region tributary to the city is one huge fish and game preserve4 ,landing trout or bringing down ducks or a buck can be accomplished within tramping distance of city homes4 ,three polo fields are on the peninsula4 ,fly-casting on ,stow lake in ,golden ,gate ,park1 regattas off the ,aquatic ,park and the ,marina1 trap shooting1 hiking1 mountaineering in the ,sierra ,nevada range1 and a diversity of other activities are directed by clubs and organized groups4 ,horse racing has been revived at ,tanforan and attracts big crowds4 ,the motor roads in and out of ,san ,francisco are among the finest in the country4 ,out-of-,town ,trips3 ,visitors to ,san ,francisco should see ,mount ,tamalpais1 with its crookedest railroad in the world1 ,muir ,woods1 and the ,ring ,around the ,mountain drive to ,stinson ,beach2 ,oakland1 ,alameda and ,berkeley1 the ,university of ,california being at the latter city2 the ,santa ,clara ,valley1 with its orchards1 and ,stanford ,university at ,palo ,alto2 the ,spring ,valley lakes2 ,la ,honda2 ,del ,monte1 ,carmel and historic ,monterey2 ,santa ,cruz and the ,big ,trees2 ,santa ,rosa1 home of ,luther ,burbank2 ,saratoga in blossom time2 the ,petrified ,forest2 the ,geysers2 ,mare ,island ,navy ,yard2 the ,lick ,astronomical ,observatory on ,mt4 ,hamilton2 the great ,sierra ,nevada ,range2 ,mount ,whitney and snow-capped ,shasta2 the ,yosemite1 ,sequoia and ,general ,grant ,national ,parks2 ,lake ,tahoe2 ,mt4 ,lassen and the ,sacramento and ,san ,joaquin ,valleys4 ,information booths at the hotels will supply visitors with details about trips to these and other places4 ,for detailed information about ,san ,francisco communicate with ,san ,francisco ,chamber of ,commerce ,merchants ,exchange ,building or with ,californian's ,inc4 #adj ,montgomery ,street ,san ,francisco ,this booklet written by ,fred ,brandt and ,andrew ,y4 ,wood and produced by ,horne and ,livingston for the ,san ,francisco ,chamber of ,commerce ,independent ,pressroom ,san ,francisco