,,rough ,,and ,,tumble ,,engineering ,by ,james ,h4 ,maggard ,,preface ,in placing this book before the public the author wishes it understood that it is not his intention to produce a scientific work on engineering4 ,such a book would be valuable only to engineers of large stationary engines4 ,in a nice engine room nice theories and scientific calculations are practical4 ,this book is intended for engineers of farm and traction engines1 rough and tumble engineers1 who have everything in their favor today1 and tomorrow are in mud holes1 who with the same engine do eight horse work one day and sixteen horse work the next day4 ,reader1 the author has had all these experiences and you will have them1 but don't get discouraged4 ,you can get through them to your entire satisfaction4 ,don't conclude that all you are to do is to read this book4 ,it will not make an engineer of you4 ,but read it carefully1 use good judgment and common sense1 do as it tells you1 and my word for it1 in one month1 you1 for all practical purposes1 will be a better engineer than four-fifths of the so-called engineers today1 who think what they don't know would not make much of a book4 ,don't deceive yourself with the idea that what you get out of this will be merely book learning4 ,what is said in this will be plain1 unvarnished1 practical facts4 ,it is not the author's intention to use any scientific terms1 but plain1 everyday field terms4 ,there will be a number of things you will not find in this book1 but nothing will be left out that would be of practical value to you4 ,you will not find any geometrical figures made up of circles1 curves1 angles1 letters and figures in a vain effort to make you understand the principle of an eccentric4 ,while it is all very nice to know these things1 it is not necessary1 and the putting of them in this book would defeat the very object for which it was intended4 ,be content with being a good1 practical1 everyday engineer1 and all these things will come in time4 ,,introductory ,if you have not read the preface on the preceding pages1 turn back and read it4 ,you will see that we have stated there that we will use no scientific terms1 but plain every day talk4 ,it is presumed by us that there will be more young men1 wishing to become good engineers1 read this work than old engineers4 ,we will1 therefore1 be all the more plain and say as little as possible that will tend to confuse the learner1 and what we do say will be said in the same language that we would use if we were in the field1 instructing you how to handle your engine4 ,so if the more experienced engineer thinks we might have gone further in some certain points1 he will please remember that by so doing we might confuse the less experienced1 and thereby cover up the very point we tried to make4 ,and yet it is not to be supposed that we will endeavor to make an engineer out of a man who never saw an engine4 ,it is1 therefore1 not necessary to tell the learner how an engine is made or what it looks like4 ,we are not trying to teach you how to build an engine1 but rather how to handle one after it is built2 how to know when it is in proper shape and how to let it alone when it is in shape4 ,we will suppose that you already know as much as an ordinary water boy1 and just here we will say that we have seen water haulers that were more capable of handling the engine for which they were hauling water1 than the engineer1 and the engineer would not have made a good water boy1 for the reason that he was lazy1 and we want the reader to stick a pin here1 and if he has any symptoms of that complaint1 don't undertake to run an engine1 for a lazy engineer will spoil a good engine1 if by no other means than getting it in the habit of loafing4 ,,part ,,first ,in order to get the learner started1 it is reasonable to suppose that the engine he is to run is in good running order4 ,it would not be fair to put the green boy onto an old dilapidated1 worn-out engine1 for he might have to learn too fast1 in order to get the engine running in good shape4 ,he might have to learn so fast that he would get the big head1 or have no head at all1 by the time he got through with it4 ,and ,i don't know but that a boy without a head is about as good as an engineer with the big head4 ,we will1 therefore1 suppose that his engine is in good running order4 ,by good running order we mean that it is all there1 and in its proper place1 and that with from ten to twenty pounds of steam1 the engine will start off at a good lively pace4 ,and let us say here1 7remember that we are talking of the lone engine1 no load considered17 that if you are starting a new engine and it starts off nice and easy with twenty pounds1 you can make up your mind that you have an engine that is going to be nice to handle and give you but little1 if any1 trouble4 ,but if it should require fifty or sixty pounds to start it1 you want to keep your eyes open1 something is tight2 but don't take it to pieces4 ,you might get more pieces than you would know what to do with4 ,oil the bearings freely and put your engine in motion and run it carefully for a while and see if you don't find something getting warm4 ,if you do1 stop and loosen up a very little and start it up again4 ,if it still heats1 loosen about the same as before1 and you will find that it will soon be all right4 ,but remember to loosen but very little at a time1 for a box or journal will heat from being too loose as quickly as from being too tight1 and you will make trouble for yourself1 for1 inexperienced as you are1 you don't know whether it is too loose or too tight1 and if you have found a warm box1 don't let that box take all of your attention1 but keep an eye on all other bearings4 ,remember that we are not threshing yet1 we just run the engine out of shed1 7and for the sake of the engine and the young engineer1 we hope that it did not stand out all winter7 and are getting in shape for a good fall's run4 ,in the meantime1 to find out if anything heats1 you can try your pumps1 but to help you along1 we will suppose that your pump1 or injector1 as the case may be1 works all right4 ,now suppose we go back where we started this new engine that was slow to start with less than fifty pounds1 and when it did start1 we watched it carefully and found after oiling thoroughly that nothing heated as far as we could see4 ,so we conclude that the trouble must be in the cylinder4 ,well1 what next8 ,must we take off the cylinder head and look for the trouble8 ,oh1 no1 not by any means4 ,the trouble is not serious4 ,the rings are a little tight1 which is no serious fault4 ,keep them well oiled and in a day or two ten pounds will start the empty engine in good shape4 ,if you are starting an engine that has been run1 the above instructions are not necessary1 but if it is a new one these precautions are not out of the way1 and a great deal of the trouble caused in starting a new engine1 can be avoided if these precautions are observed4 ,it is not uncommon for a hot box to be caused from a coal cinder dropping in the box in shipment1 and before starting a new engine1 clean out the boxes thoroughly1 which can be done by taking off the caps1 or top box1 and wiping the journal clean with an oily rag or waste1 and every engineer should supply himself with this very necessary article1 especially if he is the kind of an engineer who intends to keep his engine clean4 ,the engine should be run slowly and carefully for a while1 to give a chance to find out if anything is going to heat1 before putting on any load4 ,now if your engine is all right1 you can run the pressure up to the point of blowing off1 which is from one hundred to one hundred and ten pounds4 ,most new pop valves1 or safety valves1 are set at this pressure4 ,i would advise you to fire to this point1 to see that your safety is all right4 ,it is not uncommon for a new pop to stick1 and as the steam runs up it is well to try it1 by pulling the relief lever4 ,if1 on letting it go1 it stops the escaping1 steam at once1 it is all right4 ,if1 however1 the steam continues to escape1 the valve sticks in the chamber4 ,usually a slight tap with a wrench or a hammer will stop it at once1 but never get excited over escaping steam1 and perhaps here is as good a place as any to say to you1 don't get excited over anything4 ,as long as you have plenty of water1 and know you have1 there is no danger4 ,the young engineer will most likely wonder why we have not said something about the danger of explosions4 ,we did not start to write about explosions4 ,that is just what we don't want to have anything to do with4 ,but1 you say1 is there no danger of a boiler exploding8 ,yes4 ,but if you wish to explode your boiler you must treat it very differently from the way we advise4 ,we have just stated1 that as long as you have plenty of water1 and know you have1 there is no danger4 ,well1 how are you to know8 ,this is not a difficult thing to know1 provided your boiler is fitted with the proper appliances1 and all builders of any prominence1 at this date1 fit their boilers with from two to four try-cocks1 and a glass gauge4 ,the boiler is tapped in from two to four places for the try-cocks1 the location of the cocks ranging from a line on a level with the crown sheet1 or top of fire box1 to eight inches above1 depending somewhat on the amount of water space above the crown sheet1 as this space differs very materially in different makes of the same sized boiler4 ,the boiler is also tapped on or near the level of crown sheet1 to receive the lower water glass cock and directly above this1 for the top cock4 ,the space between this shows the safe variation of the water4 ,don't let the water get above the top of the glass1 for if you are running your engine at hard work1 you may knock out a cylinder head1 and don't let it get below the lower gauge1 or you may get your head knocked off4 ,now the glass gauge is put on for your convenience1 as you can determine the location of the water as correctly by this as if you are looking directly into the boiler1 provided1 the glass gauge is in perfect order4 ,but as there are a number of ways in which it may become disarranged or unreliable1 we want to impress on your mind that you1 must not depend on it entirely4 ,we will give these causes further on4 ,you are not only provided with the glass gauge1 but with the try-cocks4 ,these cocks are located so that the upper and lower cock is on or near the level with the lower and upper end of the glass gauge4 ,with another try-cock about on a level with the center of glass gauge1 or in other words1 if the water stands about the center of glass it will at the same time show at the cock when tried4 ,now we will suppose that your glass gauge is in perfect condition and the water shows two inches in the glass4 ,you now try the lower cock1 and find plenty of water2 you will then try the next upper cock and get steam4 ,now as the lower cock is located below the water line1 shown by the glass1 and the second cock above this line1 you not only see the water line by the glass1 but you have a way of proving it4 ,should the water be within two inches of the top of glass you again have the line between two cocks and can also prove it4 ,now you can know for a certainty1 where the water stands in the boiler1 and we repeat when you know this1 there is nothing to fear from this source1 and as a properly constructed boiler never explodes1 except from low water or high pressure1 and as we have already cautioned you about your safety valve1 you have nothing to fear1 provided you have made up your mind to follow these instructions1 and unless you can do this1 let your job to one who can4 ,well1 you say you will do as we have directed1 we will then go back to the gauges4 ,don't depend on your glass gauge alone1 for several reasons4 ,one is1 if you depend on the glass entirely1 the try-cocks become limed up and are useless1 solely because they are not used4 ,some time ago the writer was standing near a traction engine1 when the engineer1 7,i guess ,i must call him that7 asked me to stay with the engine a few minutes4 ,i consented4 ,after he had been gone a short time ,i thought ,i would look after the water4 ,it showed about two inches in the glass1 which was all right1 but as ,i have advised you1 ,i proposed to know that it was there and thought ,i would prove it by trying the cocks4 ,but on attempting to try them ,i found them limed up solid4 ,had ,i been hunting an engineer1 that fellow would not have secured the job4 ,suppose that before ,i had looked at the glass1 it had bursted1 which it is liable to do any time4 ,i would have shut the gauge cocks off as soon as possible to stop the escaping steam and water4 ,then ,i would have tried the cocks to find where the water was in the boiler4 ,i would have been in a bad boat1 not knowing whether ,i had water or not4 ,shortly after this the fellow that was helping the engine run 7,i guess ,i will put it that way7 came back4 ,i asked him what the trouble was with his try cocks4 ,he said1 ,oh1 ,i don't bother with them4 ,i asked him what he would do if his glass should break4 ,his reply was1 ,oh1 that won't break4 ,now just such an engineer as that spoils many a good engine1 and then blames it on the manufacturer4 ,now this is one good reason why you are not to depend entirely on the glass gauge4 ,another equally as good reason is1 that your glass may fool you1 for you see the try-cocks may lime up1 so may your glass gauge cocks1 but you say you use them4 ,you use them by looking at them4 ,you are not letting the steam or water escape from them every few minutes and thereby cutting the lime away1 as is the case with try-cocks4 ,now you want to know how you are to keep them open4 ,well1 that is easy4 ,shut off the top gauge and open the drain cock at bottom of gauge cock4 ,this allows the water and steam to flow out of the lower cock4 ,then after allowing it to escape a few seconds1 shut off the lower gauge and open the top one1 and allow it to blow about the same time4 ,then shut the drain cock and open both gauge cocks and you will see the water seek its level1 and you can rest assured that it is reliable4 ,this little operation ,i want you to perform every day you run an engine4 ,it will prevent you from thinking you have water4 ,i don't want you to think so4 ,i intend that you shall know it4 ,you remember we said1 if you know you have water1 you are safe1 and every one around you will be safe4 ,now here is something ,i want you to remember4 ,never be guilty of going to your engine in the morning and building a fire simply because you see water in the glass4 ,we could give you the names of a score of men who have ruined their engines by doing this very thing4 ,you1 as a matter of course1 want to know why this can do any harm4 ,it could not1 if the water in the boiler was as high as it shows in the glass1 but it is not always there1 and that is what causes the trouble4 ,well1 if it showed in the glass1 why was it not there8 ,you probably have lived long enough in the world to know that there are a great many boys in it1 and it seems to be second nature with them to turn everything on an engine that is possible to turn4 ,all glass gauge cocks are fitted with a small hand wheel4 ,the small boy sees this about the first thing and he begins to turn it1 and he generally turns as long as it turns easy1 and when it stops he will try the other one1 and when it stops he has done the mischief1 by shutting the water off from the boiler1 and all the water that was in the glass remains there4 ,you may have stopped work with an ordinary gauge of water1 and as water expands when heated1 it also contracts when it becomes cool4 ,water will also simmer away1 if there is any fire left in the fire box1 especially if there should be any vent or leak in the boiler1 and the water may by morning have dropped to as much as an inch below the crown sheet4 ,you approach the engine and on looking at the glass1 see two or three inches of water4 ,should you start a fire without investigating any further1 you will have done the damage1 while if you try the gauge cocks first you will discover that some one has tampered with the engine4 ,the boy did the mischief through no malicious motives1 but we regret to say that there are people in this world who are mean enough to do this very thing1 and not stop at what the boy did unconsciously1 but after shutting the water in the gauge for the purpose of deceiving you1 they then go to the blow-off cock and let enough water out to insure a dry crown sheet4 ,while ,i detest a human being guilty of such a dastardly trick1 ,i have no sympathy to waste on an engineer who can be caught in this way4 ,so1 if by this time you have made up your mind never to build a fire until you know where the water is1 you will never be fooled and will never have to explain an accident by saying1 ,i thought ,i had plenty of water4 ,you may be fooled in another way4 ,you are aware that when a boiler is fired up or in other words has a steam pressure on1 the air is excluded1 so when the boiler cools down1 the steam condenses and becomes water again1 hence the space which was occupied by steam now when cold becomes a vacuum4 ,now should your boiler be in perfect shape1 we mean perfectly tight1 your throttle equally as tight1 your pump or injector in perfect condition and you were to' leave your engine with the hose in the tank1 and the supply globe to your pump open1 you will find on returning to your engine in the morning that the boiler will be nearly if not quite full of water4 ,i have heard engineers say that someone had been tampering with their engines and storm around about it1 while the facts were that the supply being open the water simply flowed in from atmospheric pressure1 in order to fill the space made vacant by the condensed steam4 ,you will find further on that all check valves are arranged to prevent any flowing out from the boiler1 but nothing to prevent water flowing in4 ,such an occurrence will do no harm but the knowing how it was done may prevent your giving yourself away4 ,a good authority on steam boilers1 says3 ,all explosions come either from poor material1 poor workmanship1 too high pressure1 or a too low gauge of water4 ,now to protect yourself from the first two causes1 buy your engine from some factory having a reputation for doing good work and for using good material4 ,the last two causes depend very much on yourself1 if you are running your own engine4 ,if not1 then see that you have an engineer who knows when his safety valve is in good shape and who knows when he has plenty of water1 or knows enough to pull his fire1 when for some reason1 the water should become low4 ,if poor material and poor workmanship were unknown and carelessness in engineers were unknown1 such a thing as a boiler explosion would also be unknown4 ,you no doubt have made up your mind by this time that ,i have no use for a careless engineer1 and let me add right here1 that if you are inclined to be careless1 forgetful17they both mean about the same thing17 you are a mighty poor risk for an insurance company1 but on the other hand if you are careful and attentive to business1 you are as safe a risk as any one1 and your success and the durability and life of your engine depends entirely upon you1 and it is not worth your while to try to shift the responsibility of an accident to your engine upon some one else4 ,if you should go away from your engine and leave it with the water boy1 or anyone who might be handy1 or leave it alone1 as is often done1 and something goes wrong with the engine1 you are at fault4 ,you had no business to leave it1 but you say you had to go to the separator and help fix something there4 ,at the separator is not your place4 ,it is not our intention to tell you how to run both ends of an outfit4 ,we could not tell you if we wanted to4 ,if the men at the separator can't handle it1 get some one or get your boss to get some one who can4 ,your place is at the engine4 ,if your engine is running nicely1 there is all the more reason why you should stay by it1 as that is the way to keep it running nicely4 ,i have seen twenty dollars damage done to the separator and two days time lost all because the engineer was as near the separator as he was to the engine when a root went into the cylinder4 ,stay with your engine1 and if anything goes wrong at the separator1 you are ready to stop and stop quickly1 and if you are signalled to start you are ready to start at once ,you are therefore making time for your employer or for yourself and to make time while running a threshing outfit1 means to make money4 ,there are engineers running engines today who waste time enough every day to pay their wages4 ,there is one thing that may be a little difficult to learn1 and that is to let your engine alone when it is all right4 ,i once gave a young fellow a recommendation to a farmer who wanted an engineer1 and afterward noticed that when ,i happened around he immediately picked up a wrench and commenced to loosen up first one thing and then another4 ,if that engineer ever loses that recommendation he will be out of a job1 if his getting one depends on my giving him another4 ,i wish to say to the learner that that is not the way to run an engine4 ,whenever ,i happen to go around an engine1 7and ,i never lose an opportunity7 and see an engineer watching his engine1 7now don't understand me to mean standing and gazing at it17 ,i conclude that he knows his business4 ,what ,i mean by watching an engine is1 every few minutes let your eye wander over the engine and you will be surprised to see how quickly you will detect anything out of place4 ,so when ,i see an engineer watching his engine closely while running1 ,i am most certain to see another commendable feature in a good engineer1 and that is1 when he stops his engine he will pick up a greasy rag and go over his engine carefully1 wiping every working part1 watching or looking carefully at every point that he touches4 ,if a nut is working loose he finds it1 if a bearing is hot he finds it4 ,if any part of his engine has been cutting1 he finds it4 ,he picked up1 a greasy rag instead of a wrench1 for the engineer that understands his business and attends to it never picks up a wrench unless he has something to do with it4 ,the good engineer took a greasy rag and while he was using it to clean his engine1 he was at the same time carefully examining every part4 ,his main object was to see that everything was all right4 ,if he had found a nut loose or any part out of place1 then he would have taken his wrench1 for he had use for it4 ,now what a contrast there is between this engineer and a poor one1 and unfortunately there are hundreds of poor engineers running portable and traction engines4 ,you will find a poor engineer very willing to talk4 ,this is bad habit number one4 ,he cannot talk and have his mind on his work4 ,beginners must not forget this4 ,when ,i tell you how to fire an engine you will understand how important it is1 ,the poor engineer is very apt to ask an outsider to stay at his engine while he goes to the separator to talk4 ,this is bad habit number two4 ,even if the outsider is a good engineer1 he does not know whether the pump is throwing more water than is being used or whether it is throwing less4 ,he can only ascertain this by watching the column of water in the glass1 and he hardly knows whether to throw in fuel or not4 ,he don't want the steam to go down and he don't know at what pressure the pop valve will blow off4 ,there may be a box or journal that has been giving the engineer trouble and the outsider knows nothing about it4 ,there are a dozen other good reasons why bad habit number two is very bad4 ,if you will watch the poor engineer when he stops his engine1 he will1 if he does anything1 pick up a wrench1 go around to the wrist pin1 strike the key a little crack1 draw a nut or peck away at something else1 and can't see anything for grease and dirt4 ,when he starts up1 ten to one the wrist pin heats and he stops and loosens it up and then it knocks4 ,now if he had picked up a rag instead of a wrench1 he would not have hit that key but he would have run his hand over it and if he had found it all right1 he would have let it alone1 and would have gone over the balance of the engine and when he started up again his engine would have looked better for the wiping it got and would have run just as well as before he stopped it4 ,now you will understand why a good engineer wears out more rags than wrenches1 while a poor one wears out more wrenches than rags4 ,never bother an engine until it bothers you4 ,if you do1 you will make lots of grief for yourself4 ,i have mentioned the bad habits of a poor engineer so that you may avoid them4 ,if you carefully avoid all the bad habits connected with the running of an engine1 you will be certain to fall into good habits and will become a good engineer4 ,,tinkering ,,engineers ,after carelessness1 meddling with an engine comes next in the list of bad habits4 ,the tinkering engineer never knows whether his engine is in good shape or not1 and the chances are that if he should get it in good shape he would not know enough to let it alone4 ,if anything does actually get wrong with your engine1 do not be afraid to take hold of it1 for something must be done1 and you are the one to do it1 but before you do anything be certain that you know what is wrong4 ,for instance1 should the valve become disarranged on the valve stem or in any other way1 do not try to remedy the trouble by changing the eccentric1 or if the eccentric slips do not go to the valve to mend the trouble4 ,i am well aware that among young engineers the impression prevails that a valve is a wonderful piece of mechanism liable to kick out of place and play smash generally4 ,now let me tell you right here that a valve 7,i mean the ordinary slide valve1 such as is used on traction and portable engines71 is one of the simplest parts of an engine1 and you are not to lose any sleep about it1 so be patient until ,i am ready to introduce you to this part of your work4 ,you have a perfect right to know what is wrong with the engine4 ,the trouble may not be so serious and it is evident to you that the engine is not running just as nicely as it should4 ,now1 if your engine runs irregularly1 that is if it runs up to a higher speed than you want1 and then runs down1 you are likely to say at once1 ,oh ,i know what the trouble is1 it is the governor4 ,well1 suppose it is1 what are you going to do about it1 are you going to shut down at once and go to tinkering with it8 ,no1 don't do that1 stay close to the throttle valve and watch the governor closely4 ,keep your eye on the governor stem1 and when the engine starts off on one of its high speed tilts1 you will see the stem go down through the stuffing box and then stop and stick in one place until the engine slows down below its regular speed1 and it then lets loose and goes up quickly and your engine lopes off again4 ,you have now located the trouble4 ,it is in the stuffing box around the little brass rod or governor stem4 ,the packing has become dry and by loosening it up and applying oil you may remedy the trouble until such time as you can repack it with fresh packing4 ,candle wick is as good for this purpose as anything you can use4 ,but if the governor does not act as ,i have described and the stem seems to be perfectly free and easy in the box1 and the governor still acts queerly1 starting off and running fast for a few seconds1 and then suddenly concluding to take it easy and away goes the engine again1 see if the governor belt is all right1 and if it is1 it would be well for you to stop and see if a wheel is not loose4 ,it might be either the little belt wheel or one of the little cog wheels4 ,if you find these are all right1 examine the spool on the crank shaft from which the governor is run and you will probably find it loose4 ,if the engine has been run for any length of time1 you will always find the trouble in one of these places1 but if it is a new one the governor valve might fit a little tight in the valve chamber and you may have to take it out and use a little emery paper to take off the rough projections on the valve4 ,never use a file on this valve if you can get emery paper1 and ,i would advise you to always have some of it with you4 ,it will often come handy4 ,now if the engine should start off at a lively gait and continue to run still faster1 you must stop at once4 ,the trouble this time is surely in the governor4 ,if the belt is all right1 examine the jam nuts on the top of the governor valve stem4 ,you will probably find that these nuts have worked loose and the rod is working up1 which will increase the speed of the engine4 ,if these are all right1 you will find that either a pulley or a little cog wheel is loose4 ,a quick eye will locate the trouble before you have time to stop4 ,if the belt is loose1 the governor will lag while the engine will run away4 ,if the wheel is loose1 the governor will most likely stop and the engine will go on a tear4 ,if the jam nut has worked loose1 the governor will run as usual1 except that it will increase its speed as the speed of the engine is increased4 ,now any of these little things may happen and are likely to4 ,none of them are serious1 provided you take my advice1 and remain near the engine4 ,now if you are thirty or forty feet away from the engine and the governor belt slips1 or gets unlaced1 or the pulley gets off1 about the first thing the engine would do would be to jump out of the belt and by the time you get to it1 it will be having a mighty lively time all alone4 ,this might happen once and do no harm1 and it might happen again and do a great deal of damage1 and you are being paid to run the engine and you must stay by it4 ,the governor is not a difficult thing to handle1 but it requires your attention4 ,now if ,i should drop the governor1 you might say that ,i had not given you any instructions about how to regulate it to speed4 ,i really do not know whether it is worth while to say much about it1 for governors are of different designs and are necessarily differently arranged for regulating1 but to help young learners ,i will take the ,waters governors which ,i think the most generally used on threshing and farm engines4 ,you will find on the upper end of the valve or governor stem two little brass nuts4 ,the upper one is a thumb nut and is made fast to the stem4 ,the second nut is a loose jam nut4 ,to increase the speed of the engine loosen this jam nut and take hold of the thumb nut and turn it back slowly1 watching the motion of your engine all the while4 ,when you have obtained the speed you require1 run the thumb nut down as tight as you can with your fingers4 ,never use a wrench on these nuts4 ,to slow or slacken the speed1 loosen the jam nut as before1 except that you must run it up a few turns1 then taking hold of the thumb nut1 turn down slowly until you have the speed required1 when you again set the thumb nut secure4 ,in regulating the speed1 be careful not to press down on the stem when turning1 as this will make the engine run a little slower than it will after the pressure of your hand is removed4 ,if at any time your engine refuses to start with an open throttle1 notice your governor stem1 and you will find that it has been screwed down as far as it will go4 ,this frequently happens with a new engine1 the stem having been screwed down for its protection in transportation4 ,in traveling through timber with an engine1 be very careful not to let any over-hanging limbs come in contact with the governor4 ,now ,i think what ,i have said regarding this particular governor will enable you to handle any one you may come in contact with1 as they are all very much alike in these respects4 ,it is not my intention to take time and space to describe a governor in detail4 ,if you will follow the instructions ,i have given you the governor will attend to the rest4 ,,part ,,second ,,water ,,supply ,if you want to be a successful engineer it is necessary to know all about the pump4 ,i have no doubt that many who read this book1 cannot tell why the old wooden pump 7from which he has pumped water ever since he was tall enough to reach the handle7 will pump water simply because he works the handle up and down4 ,if you don't know this ,i have quite a task on my hands1 for you must not attempt to run an engine until you know the principle of the pump4 ,if you do understand the old town pump1 ,i will not have much trouble with you1 for while there is no old style wooden pump used on the engine1 the same principles are used in the cross head pump4 ,do not imagine that a cross head pump means something to be dreaded4 ,it is only a simple lift and force pump1 driven from the cross head4 ,that is where it gets its name and it don't mean that you are to get cross at it if it don't work1 for nine times out of ten the fault will be yours4 ,now ,i am well aware that all engines do not have cross head pumps and with all respect to the builders of engines who do not use them1 ,i am inclined to think that all standard farm engines ought to have a cross head pump1 because it is the most simple and is the most economical1 and if properly constructed1 is the most reliable4 ,a cross head pump consists of a pump barrel1 a plunger1 one vertical check valve and two horizontal check valves1 a globe valve and one stop cock1 with more or less piping4 ,we will now locate each of these parts and will then note the part that each performs in the process of feeding the boiler4 ,you will find all1 or most pump barrels1 located under the cylinder of the engine4 ,it is placed here for several reasons4 ,it is out of the way4 ,it is a convenient place from which to connect it to the cross head by which it is driven4 ,on some engines it is located on the top or at the side of the cylinder and will work equally well4 ,the plunger is connected with the cross head and in direct line with the pump barrel1 and plays back and forth in the barrel4 ,the vertical check valve is placed between the pump and the water supply4 ,it is not absolutely necessary that the first check be a vertical one1 but a check of some kind must be so placed4 ,as the water is lifted up to the boiler it is more convenient to use a vertical check at this point4 ,just ahead and a few inches from the pump barrel is a horizontal check valve4 ,following the course of the water toward the point where it enters the boiler1 you will find another check valve4 ,this is called a hot water check4 just below this check1 or between it and where the water enters the boiler1 you will find a stop cock or it may be a globe valve4 ,they both answer the same purpose4 ,i will tell you further on why a stop cock is preferable to a globe valve4 ,while the cross head pumps may differ as to location and arrangement1 you will find that they all require the parts described and that the checks are so placed that they bear the same relation to each other4 ,no fewer parts can be used in a pump required to lift water and force it against steam pressure4 ,more check valves may be used1 but it would not do to use less4 ,each has its work to do1 and the failure of one defeats all the others4 ,the pump barrel is a hollow cylinder1 the chamber being large enough to admit the plunger which varies in size from #e_/h of an inch to ,i inch in diameter1 depending upon the size of the boiler to be supplied4 ,the barrel is usually a few inches longer than the stroke of the engine1 and is provided at the cross head end with a stuffing box and nut4 ,at the discharge end it is tapped out to admit of piping to conduct water from the pump4 ,at the same end and at the extreme end of the travel of the plunger it is tapped for a second pipe through which the water from the supply reaches the pump barrel4 ,the plunger is usually made of steel and turned down to fit snug in the chamber1 and is long enough to play the full stroke of engine between the stuffing box and point of supply and to connect with the driver on the cross head4 ,now1 we will take it for granted1 that1 to begin with1 the pump is in good order1 and we will start it up stroke at a time and watch its work4 ,now1 if everything be in good order1 we should have good water and a good hard rubber suction hose attached to the supply pipe just under the globe valve4 ,when we start the pump we must open the little pet cock between the two horizontal check valves4 ,the globe valve must be open so as to let the water in4 ,a check valve1 whether it is vertical or horizontal1 will allow water to pass through it one way only1 if it is in good working order4 ,if the water will pass through both ways1 it is of no account4 ,now1 the engine starts on the outward stroke and draws the-plunger out of the chamber4 ,this leaves a space in the barrel which must be filled4 ,air cannot get into it1 because the pump is in perfect order1 neither can the air get to it through the hose1 as it is in the water1 so that the pressure on the outside of the water causes it to flow up through the pipes through the first check valve and into the pump barrel1 and fills the space1 and if the engine has a ,i#b-;inch stroke1 and the plunger is ,i inch in diameter1 we have a column of water in the pump ,i#b inches long and ,i inch in diameter4 ,the engine has now reached its outward stroke and starts back4 ,the plunger comes back with it and takes the space occupied by the water1 which must get out of the way for the plunger4 ,the water came up through the first check valve1 but it can't get back that way as we have stated4 ,there is another check valve just ahead1 and as the plunger travels back it drives the water through this second check4 ,when the plunger reaches the end of the backward stroke1 it has driven the water all out4 ,it then starts forward again1 but the water which has been driven through the second check cannot get back and this space must again be filled from supply1 and the plunger continues to force more water through the second check1 taking four or five strokes of the plunger to fill the pipes between the second check valve and the hot water check valve4 ,if the gauge shows ,i#jj pounds of steam1 the hot water check is held shut by ,i#jj pounds pressure1 and when the space between the check valves is filled with water1 the next stroke of the plunger will force the water through the hot water check valve1 which is held shut by the ,i#jj pounds steam pressure so that the pump must force the water against this hot water check valve with a power greater than ,i#jj pounds pressure4 ,if the pump is in good condition1 the plunger does its work and the water is forced through into the boiler4 ,a clear sharp click of the valves at each stroke of the plunger is certain evidence that the pump is working well4 ,the small drain cock between the horizontal checks is placed there to assist in starting the pump1 to tell when the pump is working and to drain the water off to prevent freezing4 ,when the pump is started to work and this drain cock is opened1 and the hot water in the pipes drained off1 the globe valve is then opened1 and after a few strokes of the plunger1 the water will begin to flow out through the drain cock1 which is then closed1 and you may be reasonably certain that the pump is working all right4 ,if at any time you are in doubt as to whether the pump is forcing the water through the pipes1 you can easily ascertain by opening this drain cock4 ,it will always discharge cold water when the pump is working4 ,another way to tell if the pump is working1 is by placing your hand on the first two check valves4 ,if they are cold1 the pump is working all right1 but if they are warm1 the cold water is not being forced through them4 ,a stop cock should be used next to boiler1 as you ascertain whether it is open or shut by merely looking at it1 while the globe valve can be closed by some meddlesome party and you would not discover it1 and would burst some part of your pump by forcing water against it4 ,,part ,,third ,it is very important when the pump fails to work to ascertain what the trouble is4 ,if it should stop suddenly1 examine the tank and ascertain if you have any water4 ,if you have sufficient water1 it may be that there is air in the pump chamber1 and the only way that it can get in is through the stuffing box around the plunger1 if the pipes are all tight4 ,give this stuffing nut a turn1 and if the pump starts off all right1 you have found the trouble1 and it would be well to re-pack the pump the first chance you get4 ,if the trouble is not in the stuffing box1 go to the tank and see if there is anything over the screen or strainer at the end of the hose4 ,if there is not1 take hold of the hose and you can tell if there is any suction4 ,then ascertain if the water flows in and then out of the hose again4 ,you can tell this by holding your hand loosely over the end of the hose4 ,if you find that it draws the water in and then forces it out again1 the trouble is with the first check valve4 ,there is something under it which prevents its shutting down4 ,if1 however1 you find that there is no suction at the end of hose examine the second check4 ,if there should be something under it1 it would prevent the pump working1 because the pump forces the water through it2 and1 as the plunger starts back1 if the check fails to hold1 the water flows back and fills the pump barrel again and there would be no suction4 ,the trouble may1 however1 be in the hot water check1 and it can always be told whether it is in the second check or hot water check by opening the little drain cock4 ,if the water which goes out through it is cold1 the trouble is in the second check2 but1 if hot water and steam are blown out through this little drain cock1 the trouble is in the hot water check1 or the one next to the boiler4 ,this check must never be tampered with without first turning the stop cock between this check and the boiler4 ,the valve can then be taken out and the obstruction removed4 ,be very careful never to take out the hot water check without closing the stop cock1 for if you do you will get badly scalded2 and never start the pump without opening this valve1 for if you do1 it will burst the pump4 ,the obstruction under the valves is sometimes hard to find4 ,a young man in southern ,iowa got badly fooled by a little pebble about the size of a pea1 which got into the pipe1 and when he started his pump the pebble would be forced up under the check and let the water back4 ,when he took the check out the pebble was not there1 for it had dropped back into the pipe4 ,you will see that it is necessary to make a careful examinations and not get mad1 pick up a wrench and whack away at the check valve1 bruising it so that it will not work4 ,remember that it would work if it could1 and make up your mind to find out why1 it don't work4 ,a few years ago ,i was called several miles to see an engine on which the pump would not work4 ,the engine had been idle for two days and the engineer had been trying all that time to make the pump work4 ,i took the cap off of the horizontal check1 just forward of the pump barrel1 and took the valve out and discovered that the check was reversed4 ,i told the engineer that if he would put the check in so that the water could get through1 he would have no more trouble4 ,this fellow had lost his head4 ,he was completely rattled4 ,he insisted that the valve had always been on that way1 although the engine had been run two years4 ,now the facts in this case were as follows3 ,the old check valve in place of the one referred to had been one known as a stem valve1 or floating valve4 ,this stem by some means1 had broken off but it did not prevent the valve from working4 ,the stem1 however1 worked forward till it reached the hot water check1 and lodged under the valve1 which prevented this check from working and his pump refused to work1 the engineer soon found where the stem had broken off1 and instead of looking for the stem1 sent to town for a new check1 after putting this on the pump now refused to work for two reasons4 ,one was1 he had not removed the broken stem from the hot water check1 and another was1 that the new check was in wrong end to4 ,after wasting another hour or two he finally found and-removed the stem from the hot water check1 but his pump still refused to work4 ,and then as the boys say1 he laid down1 and when ,i called his attention to the new valve being in wrong1 he was so completely rattled that he made use of the above expression4 ,there are other causes that would prevent the pump working besides lack of packing and obstructions under the valves4 ,the valve may stick4 ,when it is raised to allow the water to flow through1 it may stick in the valve chamber and refuse to settle back in the seat4 ,this may be caused by a little rough place in the chamber1 or a little projection on the valve1 and can generally be remedied by tapping the under side of check with a wrench or hammer4 ,do not strike it so hard as to bruise the check1 but simply tap it4 ,if this don't remedy the trouble1 take the valve out1 bore a hole in a board about ,i_/#b inch deep and large enough to permit the valve to be turned4 ,drop a little emery dust in this hole4 ,if you haven't any emery dust1 scrape some grit from a common whetstone4 ,if you have no whetstone1 put some fine sand or gritty soil in the hole1 put the valve on top of it1 put your brace on the valve and turn it vigorously for a few minutes1 and you will remove all roughness4 ,constant use may sometimes make a burr on the valve which will cause it to stick4 ,put it through the above course and it will be as good as new4 ,if this little process was generally known1 a great deal of trouble and annoyance could be avoided4 ,it will not be necessary to describe other styles of pumps4 ,if you know how to run the cross head pump1 you can run any of the others4 ,some engines have cross head pump only4 ,others have an independent pump4 ,others have an injector1 or inspirator1 and some have both cross head pump and injector4 ,i think a farm engine should be supplied with both4 ,it is neither wise nor necessary to go into a detailed description of an injector4 ,the young reader will be likely to become convinced if an injector works for five minutes1 it will continue to work1 if the conditions remain the same4 ,if the water in the tank does not become heated1 and no foreign substance is permitted to enter the injector1 there is nothing to prevent its working properly as long as the conditions are within the range of a good injector4 ,it is a fact that with all injectors as the vertical distance the injector lifts is increased1 it requires a greater steam pressure to start the injector1 and the highest steam pressure at which the injector will work is greatly decreased4 ,if the feed water is heated1 a greater steam pressure is required to start the injector and it will not work with as high steam pressure4 ,the capacity of an injector is always decreased as the lift is increased1 or the feed water heated4 ,to obtain the most economical results the proper sized injector must be used4 ,when the exact quantity of water consumed per hour is known it can be easily determined from the capacities given in the price lists which sized injector must be selected4 ,an injector must always be selected having a maximum capacity in excess of the water consumed4 ,if the exact amount of water consumed per hour is not known1 and cannot be easily determined1 the proper size can be approximately determined from the nominal ,h4 ,p4 of the boiler4 ,the usual custom has been to allow #g ,i_/#b gallons of water per hour1 which is a safe rule for the ordinary type of boiler4 ,,what ,a ,,good ,,injector ,,ought ,,to ,,do4 ,with cold feed water1 a good injector with a two foot lift ought to start with #be pounds pressure and work up to ,i#ej pounds4 ,with #h foot lift1 ought to start at #cj pounds and work up to ,i#cj4 ,with feed water heated to ,i#jj degrees ,fahrenheit it should start with the same lift1 that is1 will say #b foot1 at #bf and work ,up to ,i#bj1 and at #h1 from #cc up to ,i#jj4 ,you will see by this that conditions1 consisting of variation of temperature in the feed water and different lifts1 change the efficiency of your injector very materially1 and the water can soon get beyond the ability of your injector to work at all4 ,the above refers more particularly to the single tube injector4 ,the double tube injector under the same conditions as above should work from ,i#d pounds to #bej1 and from ,i#e to #b;,i#j1 but as this injector is not generally used on farm engines you will most likely not meet with it very often4 ,the injector should not be placed too near the boiler1 as the heat from it will make it difficult to start the injector each time after it has been standing idle4 ,if the injector is so hot that it will not lift the cold water1 there is no way of cooling it except by applying the water on the outside4 ,this is most effectively done by covering the injector with a cloth and pouring water over the cloth4 ,if1 after the injector has become cool1 it still refuses to work1 you may be sure that there is some obstruction in it that must be removed4 ,this can be done by taking off the cap1 or plug-nut1 and running a fine wire through the cone valve or cylinder valve4 ,the automatic injector requires only the manipulation of the steam valve to start it4 ,there are other makes that require1 first3 that the injector be given steam and then the water4 ,to start an injector requires some little tact1 7and you will discover that tact is the handiest tools you can have to make you a good engineer74 ,to start an injector of the ,pemberthy type2 first give it sufficient steam to lift the water1 allowing the water to escape at overflow for a moment or long enough to cool the injector1 then with a quick turn shut off and open up the supply which requires merely a twist of the wrist4 ,if the injector fails to take hold at once don't get ruffled but repeat the above move a few times and you will soon start it1 and if you have tact1 7it is only another word for natural ability7 you will need no further instructions to start your injector4 ,but remember that no injector can work coal cinders or chaf and that all joints must be air tight4 ,don't forget this4 ,it is now time to give some attention to the heater4 ,while the heater is no part of the pump1 it is connected with it and does its work between the two horizontal check valves4 ,its purpose is to heat the water before it passes into the boiler4 ,the water on its way from the pump to the boiler is forced through a coil of pipes around which the exhaust steam passes on its way from the cylinder to the exhaust nozzle in the smokestack4 ,the heaters are made in several different designs1 but it is not necessary to describe all of them1 as they require little attention and they all answer the same purpose4 ,the most of them are made by the use of a hollow bedplate with steam fitted heads or plates4 ,the water pipe passes through the plate at the end of the heater into the hollow chamber1 and a coil of pipes is formed1 and the pipe then passes back through the head or plate to the hot water check valve and into the boiler4 ,the steam enters the cylinder from the boiler1 varying in degrees of heat from #cjj to #ejj4 ,after acting on the piston head1 it is exhausted directly into the chamber or hollow bed-plate through which the pipes pass4 ,the water1 when it enters the heater1 is as cold as when it left the tank1 but the steam which surrounds the pipes has lost but little of its heat1 and by the time the water passes through the coil of pipes it is heated to nearly boiling point and can be introduced into the boiler with little tendency to reduce the steam4 ,this use of the exhaust steam is economical1 as it saves fuel1 and it would be injurious to pump cold water directly into a hot boiler4 ,if your engine is fitted with both cross head pump and injector1 you use the injector for pumping water when the engine is not running4 ,the injector heats the water almost as hot as the heater4 ,if your engine is running and doing no work1 use your injector and stop the pump1 for1 while the engine is running light1 the small amount of exhaust steam is not sufficient to heat the water and the pressure will be reduced rapidly4 ,you will understand1 therefore1 that the injector is intended principally for an emergency rather than for general use4 ,it should always be kept in order1 for1 should the pump refuse to work1 you have only to start your injector and use it until such time as you can remedy the trouble4 ,we have now explained how you get your water supply4 ,you understand that you must have water first and then fire4 ,be sure that you have the water supply first4 ,,the ,,blower ,the blower is an appliance for creating artificial draught and consists of a small pipe leading from some point above the water line into the smoke stack1 directly over the tubes1 and should extend to the center of stack and terminate with a nozzle pointing directly to top and center of stack2 this pipe is fitted with a globe valve4 ,when it is required to rush your fire1 you can do so by opening this globe and allowing the steam to escape into the stack4 ,the force of the steam tends to drive the air out of the stack and the smoke box1 this creates a strong draught4 ,but you say1 ,what if ,i have no steam8 ,well1 then don't blow1 and be patient till you have enough to create a draught2 and it has been my experience that there is nothing gained by putting on the blower before having fifteen pounds of steam1 as less pressure than this will create but little draught and the steam will escape about as fast as it is being generated4 ,be patient and don't be everlastingly punching at the fire4 ,get your fuel in good shape in fire box and shut the door and go about your business and let the fire burn4 ,must the blower be used while working the engine4 ,no4 ,the exhaust steam which escapes into the stack1 does exactly what we stated the blower does1 and if it is necessary to use the blower in order to keep up steam1 you can conclude that your engine is in bad shape1 and yet there are times when the blower is necessary1 even when your engine is in the best of condition4 ,for instance1 when you have poor fuel and are working your engine very light1 the exhaust steam may not be sufficient to create enough draught for poor coal1 or wet or green wood4 ,but if you are working your engine hard the blower should never be used2 if you have bad fuel and it is necessary to stop your engine you will find it very convenient to put on the blower slightly1 in order to hold your steam and keep the fire lively until you start again4 ,it will be a good plan for you to take a look at the nozzle on blower now and then1 to see that it does not become limed up and to see that it is not turned to the side so that it directs the steam to the side of stack4 ,should it do this1 you will be using the steam and getting but little1 if any1 benefit4 ,it will also be well for you to remember that you can create too much draught as well as too little2 too much draught will consume your fuel and produce but little steam4 ,a ,,good ,,fireman4 ,what constitutes a good fireman8 ,you no doubt have heard this expression3 ,where there is so much smoke1 there must be some fire4 ,well1 that is true1 but a good fireman don't make much smoke4 ,we are speaking of firing with coal1 now4 ,if ,i can see the smoke ten miles from a threshing engine1 ,i can tell what kind of a fireman is running the engine2 and if there is a continuous cloud of black smoke being thrown out of the smokestack1 ,i make up my mind that the engineer is having all he can do to keep the steam up1 and also conclude that there will not be much coal left by the time he gets through with the job2 while on the other hand1 should ,i see at regular intervals a cloud of smoke going up1 and lasting for a few moments1 and for the next few moments see nothing1 then ,i conclude that the engineer of that engine knows his business1 and that he is not working hard2 he has plenty of steam all the time1 and has coal left when he is through4 ,so let us go and see what makes this difference and learn a valuable lesson4 ,we will first go to the engine that is making such a smoke1 and we will find that the engineer has a big coal shovel just small enough to allow it to enter the fire door4 ,you will see the engineer throw in about two1 or perhaps three shovels of coal and as a matter of course1 we will see a volume of black smoke issuing from the stack2 the engineer stands leaning on his shovel watching the steam gauge1 and he finds that the steam don't run up very fast1 and about the time the coal gets hot enough to consume the smoke1 we will see him drop his shovel1 pick up a poker1 throw open the fire door and commence a vigorous punching and digging at the fire4 ,this starts the black smoke again1 and about this time we will see him down on his knees with his poker1 punching at the underside of the grate bars1 about the time he is through with this operation the smoke is coming out less dense1 and he thinks it time to throw in more coal1 and he does it4 ,now this is kept up all day1 and you must not read this and say it is overdrawn1 for it is not1 and you can see it every day1 and the engineer that fires in this way1 works hard1 burns a great amount of coal1 and is afraid all the time that the steam will run down on him4 ,before leaving him let us take a look at his firebox1 and we will see that it is full of coal1 at least up to the level of the door4 ,we will also see quite a pile of ashes under the ash pan4 ,you can better understand the disadvantage of this way of firing after we visit the next man4 ,i think a good way to know how to do a thing1 is to know also1 how not to do it4 ,well1 we will now go across to the man who is making but little smoke1 and making that at regular intervals4 ,we will be likely to find that he has only a little hand shovel4 ,he picks this up1 takes up a small amount of coal1 opens the fire door and spreads the coal nicely over the grates2 does this quickly and shuts the door2 for a minute black smoke is thrown out1 but only for a minute4 ,why8 ,because he only threw in enough to replenish the fire1 and not to choke it in the least1 and in a minute the heat is great enough to consume all the smoke before it reaches the stack1 and as smoke is unconsumed fuel1 he gains that much if he can consume it4 ,we will see this engineer standing around for the next few minutes perfectly1 at ease4 ,he is not in the least afraid of his steam going down4 ,at the end of three to five minutes1 owing to the amount of work he is doing1 you will see him pick up his little shovel and throw in a little coal2 he does exactly as he did before1 and if we stay there for an hour we will not see him pick up a poker4 ,we will look in at his firebox1 and we will see what is called a thin fire1 but every part of the firebox is hot4 ,we will see but a small pile of ashes under the engine and he is not working hard4 ,if you happen to be thinking of buying an engine1 you will say that this last fellow has a dandy engine4 ,that is the kind of an engine ,i want1 when the facts in the case may be that the first man may have a better engine1 but don't know how to fire it4 ,now1 don't you see how important it is that you know how to fire an engine8 ,i am aware that some big coal wasters will say1 ,it is easy to talk about firing with a little hand shovel1 but just get out in the field as we do and get some of the kind of fuel we have to burn1 and see how you get along4 ,well1 ,i am aware that you will have some bad coal4 ,it is much better to handle bad coal in a good way than to handle good coal in a bad way4 ,learn to handle your fuel in the proper way and you will be a good fireman4 ,don't get careless and then blame the coal for what is your own fault4 ,be careful about this1 you might give yourself away4 ,i have seen engineers make a big kick about the fuel and claim that it was no good1 when some other fellow would take hold of the engine and have no trouble whatever4 ,now1 this is what ,i call a clean give away on the kicker4 ,don't allow any one to be a better fireman than yourself4 ,you will see a good fireman do exactly as ,i have stated4 ,he fires often1 always keeps a level fire1 never allows the coal to get up to the lower tubes1 always puts in coal before the steam begins to drop1 keeps the fire door open as little as possible1 preventing any cold air from striking the tubes1 which will not only check the steam1 but is injurious to the boiler4 ,it is no small matter to know just how to handle your dampers2 don't allow too much of an opening here4 ,you will keep a much more even fire by keeping the damper down1 just allowing draught enough to allow free combustion2 more than this is a waste of heat4 ,get all out of the coal you can1 and save all you get4 ,learn the little points that half the engineers never think of4 ,,wood ,you will find wood quite different in some respects1 but the good points you have learned will be useful now4 ,fire quick and often1 but unlike coal1 you must keep your fire box full4 ,place your wood as loosely as possible4 ,i mean by this1 place in all directions to allow the draft to pass freely through it4 ,keep adding a couple sticks as fast as there is room for it2 don't disturb the under sticks4 ,use short wood and fire close to the door4 ,when firing with wood ,i would advise you to keep your screen down4 ,there is much more danger of setting fire with wood than with coal4 ,if you are in a dangerous place1 owing to the wind and the surroundings1 don't hesitate to state your fears to the man for whom you are threshing4 ,he is not supposed to know the danger as well as you1 and if1 after your advice1 he says go ahead1 you have placed the responsibility on him2 but even after you have done this1 it sometimes shows a good head to refuse to fire with wood1 especially when you are required to fire with old rails1 which is a common fuel in a timbered country4 ,while they make a hot fire in a firebox1 they sometimes start a hot one outside of it4 ,it is part of your business to be as careful as you can4 ,what ,i mean is take reasonable precaution1 in looking after the screen in stack4 ,if it burns out get a new one4 ,with reasonable diligence and care1 you will never set anything on fire1 while on the other hand1 a careless engineer may do quite a lot of damage4 ,there is fire about an engine1 and you are provided with the proper appliances to control it4 ,see that you do it4 ,,why ,,grates ,,burn ,,out ,grates burn through carelessness4 ,you may as well make up your mind to this at the start4 ,you never saw grate bars burn out with a clean ash box4 ,they can only be burned by allowing the ashes to accumulate under them till they exclude the air when the bars at once become red hot4 ,the first thing1 they do is to warp1 and if the ashes are not removed at once1 the grate bar will burn off4 ,carelessness is neglecting something which is a part of your business1 and as part of it is to keep your ash box clean1 it certainly is carelessness if you neglect it4 ,your coal may melt and run down on the bars1 but if the cold air can get to the grates1 the only damage this will do is to form a clinker on the top of grates1 and shut off your draught4 ,when you find that you have this kind of coal you will want to look after these clinkers4 ,now if you should have good success in keeping steam1 keep improving on what you know1 and if you run on #ajjj pounds of coal today1 try and do it with #ijj tomorrow4 ,that is the kind of stuff a good fireman is made of4 ,but don't conclude that you can do the same amount of work each day in the week on the same amount of fuel1 even should it be of the same kind4 ,you will that with all your care and skill1 your engine will differ very materially both as to the amount of fuel and water that it will require1 though the conditions may apparently be the same4 ,this may be as good a time as any to say to you1 remember that a blast of cold air against the tubes is a bad thing1 so be careful about your firedoor2 open it as little as1 possible2 when you want to throw in fuel1 don't open the door1 and then go a rod away after a shovel of coal2 and ,i will say here that ,i have seen this thing done by men who flattered themselves that they were about at the top in the matter of running an engine4 ,that kind of treatment will ruin the best boiler in existence4 ,i don't mean that once or twice will do it1 but to keep it up will do it4 ,get your shovel of coal and when you are ready to throw it in1 open the door quickly and close it at once4 ,make it one of your habits to do this1 and you will never think of doing it in any other way4 ,if it becomes necessary to stop your engine with a hot fire and a high pressure of steam1 don't throw your door open1 but drop your damper and open the smoke box door4 ,if1 however1 you only expect to stop a minute or two1 drop your damper1 and start your injector if you have one4 ,if you have none1 get one4 ,an independent boiler feeder is a very nice thing1 if constructed on the proper principles4 ,you can't have your boiler too well equipped in this particular4 ,,part ,,four4 ,a boiler should be kept clean1 outside and inside4 ,outside for your own credit1 and inside for the credit of the manufacturers4 ,a dirty boiler requires hard firing1 takes lots of fuel1 and is unsatisfactory in every way4 ,the best way to keep it clean is not to let it get dirty4 ,the place to begin work1 is with your water boy1 pursuade him to be very careful of the water he brings you1 if you can't succeed in this1 ask him to resign4 ,i have seen a water-hauler back into a stream1 and then dip the water from the lowerside of tank1 the muddy water always goes down stream and the wheels stir up the mud2 and your bright water hauler dips it into the tank4 ,while if he had dipped it from the upper side he would have gotten clear water4 ,however1 the days of dipping water are past1 but a water boy that will do as ,i have stated is just as liable to throw his hose into the muddy water or lower side of tank as on the upper side1 where it is clear4 ,see that he keeps his tank clean4 ,we have seen tanks with one-half inch of mud in the bottom4 ,we know that there are times when you are compelled to use muddy water1 but as soon as it is possible to get clear water make him wash out his tank1 and don't let him haul it around till the boiler gets it all4 ,allow me just here to tell you how to construct a good tank for a traction engine4 ,you can make the dimensions to suit yourself1 but across the front end and about two feet back fit a partition or second head2 in the center of this head and about an inch from the bottom bore a two inch hole4 ,place a screen over this hole on the side next the rear1 and on the other side1 or side next front end1 put a valve4 ,you can construct the valve in this way3 ,take a piece of thick leather1 about four inches long1 and two and a half inches wide2 fit a block of wood 7a large bung answers the purpose nicely7 on one end1 trimming the leather around one side of the wood1 then nail the long part of the valve just above the hole1 so that the valve will fit nicely over the hole in partition4 ,when properly constructed1 this valve will allow the water to flow into the front end of tank1 but will prevent its running back4 ,so1 when you are on the road with part of a tank of water1 and start down hill1 this front part fills full of water1 and when you start up hill1 it can not get back1 and your pumps will work as well as if you had a full tank of water1 without this arrangement you cannot get your pumps to work well in going up a steep hill with anything less than a full tank4 ,now1 this may be considered a little out of the engineer's duty1 but it will save lots of annoyance if he has his tank supplied with this little appliance1 which is simple but does the business4 ,a boiler should be washed out and not blown out1 ,i believe ,i am safe in saying that more than half the engineers of threshing engines today depend on the blowing out process to clean their boilers4 ,i don't intend to tell you to do anything without giving my reasons4 ,we will take a hot boiler1 for instance2 say1 #ej pounds steam4 ,we will1 of course1 take out the fire4 ,it is not supposed that anyone will attempt to blow out the water with any fire in the firebox4 ,we will1 after removing the fire1 open the blow-off valve1 which will be found at the bottom or lowest water point4 ,the water is forced out very rapidly with this pressure1 and the last thing that comes out is the steam4 ,this steam keeps the entire boiler hot till everything is blown out1 and the result is that all the dirt1 sediment and lime is baked solid on the tubes and side of firebox4 ,but you say you know enough to not blow off at #ej pounds pressure4 ,well1 we will say #e pounds1 then4 ,you will admit that the boiler is not cold by any means1 even at only #e pounds1 and if you know enough not to blow off at #ej pounds1 you certainly know that at #e pounds pressure the damage is not entirely avoided4 ,as long as the iron is hot1 the dirt will dry out quickly1 and by the time the boiler is cold enough to force cold water through it safely1 the mud is dry and adheres closely to the iron4 ,some of the foreign matter will be blown out1 but you will find it a difficult matter to wash out what sticks to the hot iron4 ,i am aware that some engineers claim that the boiler should be blown out at about #e pounds or ,i#j pounds pressure1 but ,i believe in taking the common sense view4 ,they will advise you to blow out at a low pressure1 and then1 as soon as the boiler is cool enough1 to wash it thoroughly4 ,now1 if you must wait till the boiler is cool before washing1 why not let it cool with the water in it8 ,then1 when you let the water out1 your work is easy1 and the moment you begin to force water through it1 you will see the dirty water flowing out at the man or hand hole4 ,the dirt is soft and washes very easily2 but1 if it had dried on the inside of boiler while you were waiting for it to cool1 you would find it very difficult to wash off4 4 ,you say ,i said to force the water through the boiler1 and to do this you must use a force pump4 ,no engineer ought to attempt to run an engine without a force pump4 ,it is one of the necessities4 ,you say1 can't you wash out a boiler without a force pump8 ,oh1 yes6 ,you can do it just like some people do business4 ,but ,i started out to tell you how to keep your boiler clean1 and the way to do it is to wash it out1 and the way to wash it out is with a good force pump4 ,there are a number of good pumps made1 especially for threshing engines4 ,they are fitted to the tank for lifting water for filling1 and are fitted with a discharge hose and nozzle4 ,you will find at the bottom of boiler one or two hand hole plates-if your boiler has a water bottom-if not1 they will be found at the bottom of sides of firebox4 ,take out these hand hole plates4 ,you will also find another plate near the top1 on firebox end of boiler2 take this out1 then open up smoke box door and you will find another hand hole plate or plug near lower row of tubes2 take this out1 and you are ready for your water works1 and you want to use them vigorously2 don't throw in a few buckets of water1 but continue to direct the nozzle to every part of the boiler1 and don't stop as long as there is any muddy water flowing at the bottom hand holes4 ,this is the way to clean your boiler1 and don't think that you can be a success as an engineer without this process1 and once a week is none too often4 ,if you want satisfactory results from your engine1 you must keep a clean boiler1 and to keep it clean requires care and labor4 ,if you neglect it you can expect trouble4 ,if you blow out your boiler hot1 or if the mud and slush bakes on the tubes1 there is soon a scale formed on the tubes1 which decreases the boiler's evaporating capacity4 ,you1 therefore1 in order to make sufficient amount of steam1 must increase the amount of fuel1 which of itself is a source of expense1 to say nothing of extra labor and the danger of causing the tubes to leak from the increased heat you must produce in the firebox in order to make steam sufficient to do the work4 ,you must not expect economy of fuel1 and keep a dirty boiler1 and don't condemn a boiler because of hard firing until you know it is clean1 and don't say it is clean when it can be shown to be half full of mud4 ,,scale ,advertisements say that certain compounds will prevent scale on boilers1 and ,i think they tell the truth1 as far as they go2 but they don't say what the result may be on iron4 ,i will not advise the use of any of these preparations1 for several reasons4 ,in the first place1 certain chemicals will successfully remove the scale formed by water charged with bicarbonate of lime1 and have no effect on water charged with sulphate of lime4 ,some kinds of bark-summac1 logwood1 etc41-are sufficient to remove the scale from water charged with magnesia or carbonate of lime1 but they are injurious to the iron owing to the tannic acid with which they are charged4 ,vinegar1 rotten apples1 slop1 etc41 owing to their containing acetic acid1 will remove scale1 but this is even more injurious to the iron than the barks4 ,alkalies of any kind1 such as soda1 will be found good in water containing sulphate of lime1 by converting it into a carbonate and thereby forming a soft scale1 which is easily washed out2 but these have their objections1 for1 when used to excess1 they cause foaming4 ,petroleum is not a bad thing in water where sulphate of lime prevails2 but you should use only the refined1 as crude oil sometimes helps to form a very injurious scale4 ,carbonate of soda and corn-starch have been recommended as a scale preventative1 and ,i am inclined to think they are as good as anything1 but as we are out in the country most of the time ,i can tell you of a simple little thing that will answer the same purpose1 and can usually be had with little trouble4 ,every ,monday morning just dump a hatful of potatoes into your boiler1 and ,saturday night wash the boiler out1 as ,i have already suggested1 and when the fall's run is over there will not be much scale in the boiler4 ,,clean ,,flues4 ,we have been urging you to keep your boiler clean4 ,now1 to get the best results from your fuel1 it will also be necessary to keep your flues clean2 as soot and ashes are non-conductors of heat1 you will find it very difficult to get up steam with a coating of soot in your tubes4 ,most factories furnish with each engine a flue cleaner and rod4 ,this cleaner should be made to fit the tubes snug1 and should be forced through each separate tube every morning before building a fire4 ,some engineers never touch their flues with a cleaner1 but when they choke the exhaust sufficiently to create such a draught as to clean the flues1 they are working the engine at a great disadvantage1 besides being much more liable to pull the fire out at the top of smokestack4 ,if it were not necessary to create draught by reducing your exhaust nozzle1 your engine would run much nicer and be much more powerful if your nozzle was not reduced at all4 ,however1 you must reduce it sufficiently to give draught1 but don't impair the power by making the engine clean its own flues4 ,i think ninety per cent of the fires started by4 traction engines can be traced to the engineer having his engine choked at the exhaust nozzle4 ,this is dangerous for the reason that the excessive draught created throws fire out at the stack4 ,it cuts the power of the engine by creating back pressure4 ,we will illustrate this3 ,suppose you close the exhaust entirely1 and the engine would not turn itself4 ,if this is true1 you can readily understand that partly closing it will weaken it to a certain extent4 ,so1 remember that the nozzle has something to do with the power of the engine1 and you can see why the fellow that makes his engine clean its own flues is not the brightest engineer in the world4 ,while it is not my intention to encourage the foolish habit of pulling engines1 to see which is the best puller1 should you get into this kind of a test1 you will show the other fellow a trick by dropping the exhaust nozzle off entirely1 and no one need know it4 ,your engine will not appear to be making any effort1 either1 in making the pull4 ,many a test has been won more through the shrewdness of the operator than the superiority of the engine4 ,the knowing of this little trick may also help you out of a bad hole some time when you want a little extra power4 ,and this brings us to the point to which ,i want you to pay special attention4 ,the majority of engineers1 when they want a little extra power1 give the safety valve a twist4 ,now1 ,i have already told you to carry a good head of steam1 anywhere from #ajj to #abj pounds of steam is good pressure and is plenty1 and if you have your valve set to blow off at #aae1 let it be there2 and don't screw it down every time you want more power1 for if you do you will soon have it up to ,i#be1 and should you want more steam at some other time you will find yourself screwing it down again1 and what was really intended for a safety valve loses all its virtue as a safety1 as far as you and those around you are concerned4 ,if you know you have a good boiler you are safe in setting it at ,i#be pounds1 provided you are determined to not set it up to any higher pressure4 ,but my advice to you is that if your engine won't do the work required of it at #aae pounds1 you had best do what you can with it until you can get a larger one4 ,a safety valve is exactly what its name implies1 and there should be a heavy penalty for anyone taking that power away from it4 ,if you refuse to set your safety down at any time1 it does not imply that you are afraid of your boiler1 but rather you understand your business and realize your responsibility4 ,i stated before what you should do with the safety valve in starting a new engine4 ,you should also attend to this part of it every few days4 ,see that it does not become slow to work4 ,you should note the pressure every time it blows off2 you know where it ought to blow off1 so don't allow it to stick or hold the steam beyond this pressure4 ,if you are careful about this1 there is no danger about it sticking some time when you don't happen to be watching the gauge4 ,the steam gauge will tell you when the pop ought to blow off1 and you want to see that it does it4 ,,part ,,five ,,steam ,,gauge ,some engineers call a steam gauge a clock4 ,i suppose they do this because they think it tells them when it is time to throw in coal1 and when it is time to quit1 and when it is time for the safety valve to blow off4 ,if that is what they think a steam gauge is for1 ,i can tell them that it is time for them to learn differently4 ,it is true that in a certain sense it does tell the engineer when to do certain things1 but not as a clock would tell the time of day4 ,the office of a steam gauge is to enable you to read the pressure on your boiler at all times1 the same as a scale will enable you to determine the weight of any object4 ,as this is the duty of the steam gauge1 it is necessary that it be absolutely correct4 ,by the use of an unreliable gauge you may become thoroughly bewildered1 and in reality know nothing of what pressure you are carrying4 ,this will occur in about this way3 ,your steam gauge becomes weak1 and if your safety is set at ,i#jj pounds1 it will show ,i#jj or even more before the pop allows the steam to escape2 or if the gauge becomes clogged1 the pop may blow off when the gauge only shows go pounds or less4 ,this latter is really more dangerous than the former4 ,as you would most naturally conclude that your safety was getting weak1 and about the first thing you would do would be to screw it down so that the gauge would show ,i#jj before the pop would blow off1 when in fact you would have ,i#jj or more4 ,so you can see at once how important it is that your gauge and safety should work exactly together1 and there is but one way to make certain of this1 and that is to test your steam gauge4 ,if you know the steam gauge is correct1 you can make your safety valve agree with it2 but never try to make it do it till you know the gauge is reliable4 ,,how ,,to ,,test ,a ,,steam ,,gauge ,take it off1 and take it to some shop where there is a steam boiler in active use2 have the engineer attach your gauge where it will receive the direct pressure1 and if it shows the same as his gauge1 it is reasonable to suppose that your gauge is correct4 ,if the engineer to whom you take your gauge should say he thinks his gauge is weak1 or a little strong1 then go somewhere else4 ,i have already told you that ,i did not want you to think anything about your engine-,i want you to know it4 ,however1 should you find that your gauge shows when tested with another gauge1 that it is weak1 or unreliable in any way1 you want to repair it at once1 and the safest way is to get a new one2 and yet ,i would advise you first to examine it and see if you cannot discover the trouble4 ,it frequently happens that the pointer becomes loosened on the journal or spindle1 which attaches it to the mechanism that operates it4 ,if this is the trouble1 it is easily remedied1 but should the trouble prove to be in the spring1 or the delicate mechanism1 it would be much more satisfactory to get a new one4 ,in selecting a new gauge you will be better satisfied with a gauge having a double spring or tube1 as they are less liable to freeze or become strained from a high pressure1 and the double spring will not allow the needle or pointer to vibrate when subject to a shock or sudden increase of pressure1 as with the single spring4 ,a careful engineer will have nothing to do with a defective steam gauge or an unreliable safety valve4 ,some steam gauges are provided with a seal1 and as long as this seal is not broken the factory will make it good4 ,,fusible ,,plug ,we have told you about a safety valve1 we will now have something to say of a safety plug4 ,a safety1 or fusible plug1 is a hollow brass plug or bolt1 screwed into the top crown sheet4 ,the hole through the plug being filled with some soft metal that will fuse at a much less temperature than is required to burn iron4 ,the heat from the firebox will have no effect on this fusible plug as long as the crown sheet is covered with water1 but the moment that the water level falls below the top of the crown sheet1 thereby exposing the plug1 this soft metal is melted and runs out1 allows the steam to rush down through the opening in the lug1 putting out the fire and preventing any injury to the boiler4 ,this all sounds very nice1 but ,i am free to confess that ,i am not an advocate of a fusible plug4 ,after telling you to never allow the water to get low1 and then to say there is something to even make this allowable1 sounds very much like the preacher who told his boy never to go fishing on ,sunday1 but if he did go1 to be sure and bring home the fish4 ,i would have no objection to the safety plug if the engineer did not know it was there4 ,i am aware that some states require that all engines be fitted with a fusible plug4 ,i do not question their good intentions1 but ,i do question their good judgment4 ,it seems to me the are granting a license to carelessness4 ,for instance1 an engineer is running with a low gauge of water1 owing possibly to the tank being delayed longer than usual1 he knows the water is getting low1 but he says to himself1 well1 if the water gets too low ,i will only blow out the plug1 and so he continues to run until the tank arrives4 ,if the plug holds1 he at once begins to pump in cold water1 and most likely does it on a very hot sheet1 which of itself1 is something he never should do2 and if the plug does blow out he is delayed a couple of hours1 at least1 before he can put in a new plug and get up steam again4 ,now suppose he had not had a soft plug 7as they are sometimes called74 ,he would have stopped before he had low water4 ,he would not even have had a hot crown sheet1 and would only have lost the time he waited on the tank4 ,this is not a fancied circumstance by any means1 for it happens every day4 ,the engineer running an engine with a safety plug seldom stops for a load of water until he blows out the plug4 ,it frequently happens that a fusible plug becomes corroded to such an extent that it will stand a heat sufficient to burn the iron4 ,this is my greatest objection to it4 ,the engineer continues to rely on it for safety1 the same as if it were in perfect order1 and the ultimate result is he burns or cracks his crown sheet4 ,i have already stated that ,i have no objection to the plug1 if the engineer did not know it was there1 so if you must use one1 attend to it1 and every time you clean your boiler scrape the upper or water end of the plug with a knife1 and be careful to remove any corrosive matter that may have collected on it1 and then treat your boiler exactly as though there was no such a thing as a safety plug in it4 ,a safety plug was not designed to let you run with any lower gauge of water4 ,it is placed there to prevent injury to the boiler1 in case of an accident or when1 by some means1 you might be deceived in your gauge of water1 or if by mistake1 a fire was started without any water in the boiler4 ,should the plug melt out1 it is necessary to replace it at once1 or as soon as the heat will permit you to do so4 ,it might be a saving of time to have an extra plug always ready1 then all you have to do is to remove the melted one by unscrewing it from the crown sheet and screwing the extra one in4 ,but if you have no extra plug you must remove the first one and refill it with babbitt4 ,you can do this by filling one end of the plug with wet clay and pouring the metal into the other end1 and then pounding it down smooth to prevent any leaking4 ,this done1 you can screw the plug back into its place4 ,if you should have two plugs1 as soon as you have melted out one replace it with the new one1 and refill the other at your earliest convenience4 ,by the time you have replaced a fusible plug a few times in a hot boiler you will conclude it is better to keep water over your crown sheet4 ,,leaky ,,flues ,what makes flues leak8 ,i asked this question once1 and the answer was that the flues were not large enough to fill up the hole in flue sheet4 ,this struck me as being funny at first1 but on second thought ,i concluded it was about correct4 ,flues may leak from several causes1 but usually it can be traced to the carelessness of some one4 ,you may have noticed before this that ,i am inclined to blame a great many things to carelessness4 ,well1 by the time you have run an engine a year or two you will conclude that ,i am not unjust in my suspicions4 ,i do not blame engineers for everything1 but ,i do say that they are responsible for a great many things which they endeavor to shift on to the manufacturer4 ,if the flues in a new boiler leak1 it is evident that they were slighted by the boiler-maker2 but should they run a season or part of a season before leaking1 then it would indicate that the boiler-maker did his duty1 but the engineer did not do his4 ,he has been building too hot a fire to begin with1 or has1 been letting his fire door stand open2 or he may have overtaxed his boiler2 or else he has been blowing out his boiler when too hot2 or has at some time blown out with some fire in firebox4 ,now1 any one of these things1 repeated a few times1 will make the best of them leak4 ,you have been advised already not to do these things1 and if you do them1 or any one of them1 ,i want to know what better word there is to express it than carelessness4 ,there are other things that will make your flues leak4 ,pumping cold water into a boiler with a low gauge of water will do it1 if it does nothing more serious4 ,pouring cold water into a hot boiler will do it4 ,for instance1 if for any reason you should blow out your boiler while in the field1 and as you might be in a hurry to get to work1 you would not let the iron cool1 before beginning to refill4 ,i have seen an engineer pour water into a boiler as soon as the escaping steam would admit it4 ,the flues cannot stand such treatment1 as they are thinner than the shell or flue sheet1 and therefore cool much quicker1 and in contracting are drawn from the flue sheet1 and as a matter of course must leak4 ,a flue1 when once started to leak1 seldom stops without being set up1 and one leaky flue will start others1 and what are you going to do about it8 ,are you going to send to a boiler shop and get a boilermaker to come out and fix them and pay him from forty to sixty cents an hour for doing it8 ,i don't know but that you must the first time1 but if you are going to make a business of making your flues leak1 you had best learn how to do it yourself4 ,you can do it if you are not too big to get into the fire door4 ,you should provide yourself with a flue expander and a calking tool1 with a machinist's hammer1 7not too heavy74 ,take into the firebox with you a piece of clean waste with which you will wipe off the ends of the flues and flue sheet to remove any soot or ashes that may have collected around them4 ,after this is done you will force the expander into the flues driving it well up1 in order to bring the shoulder of expander up snug against the head of the flue4 ,then drive the tapering pin into the expander4 ,by driving the pin in too far you may spread the flue sufficient to crack it or you are more liable1 by expanding too hard1 to spread the hole in flue sheet and thereby loosen other flues4 ,you must be careful about this4 ,when you think you have expanded sufficient1 hit the pin a side blow in order to loosen it1 and turn the expander about one-quarter of a turn1 and drive it up as before2 loosen up and continue to turn as before until you have made the entire circle of flues4 ,then remove the expander1 and you are ready for your header or calking tool4 ,it is best to expand all the flues that are leaking before beginning with the header4 ,the header is used by placing the gauge or guide end within the flue1 and with your light hammer the flue can be calked or beaded down against the flue sheet4 ,be careful to use your hammer lightly1 so as not to bruise the flues or sheet4 ,when you have gone over all the expanded flues in this way1 you1 7if you have been careful7 will not only have a good job1 but will conclude that you are somewhat of an expert at it4 ,i never saw a man go into a firebox and stop the leak but that he came out well pleased with himself4 ,the fact that a firebox is no pleasant workshop may have had something to do with it4 ,if your flues have been leaking badly1 and you have expanded them1 it would be well to test your boiler with cold water pressure to make sure that you have a good job4 ,how are you going to test your boiler8 ,if you can attach to a hydrant1 do so1 and when you have given your boiler all the pressure you want1 you can then examine your flues carefully1 and should you find any seeping of water1 you can use your beader lightly untill such leaks are stopped4 ,if the waterworks will not afford you sufficient pressure1 you can bring it up to the required pressure1 by attaching a hydraulic pump or a good force pump4 ,in testing for the purpose of ascertaining if you have a good job on your flues1 it is not necessary to put on any greater cold water pressure than you are in the habit of carrying4 ,for instance1 if your safety valve is set at one hundred and ten pounds1 this pressure of cold water will be sufficient to test the flues4 ,now1 suppose you are out in the field and want to test your flues4 ,of course you have no hydrant to attach to1 and you happen not to have a force pump1 it would seem you were in bad shape to test your boiler with cold water4 ,well1 you can do it by proceeding in this way3 ,when you have expanded and beaded all the flues that were leaking1 you will then close the throttle tight1 take off the safety valve 7as this is generally attached at the highest point7 and fill the boiler full1 as it is absolutely necessary that all the space in the boiler should be filled with cold water4 ,then screw the safety valve back in its place4 ,you will then get back in the firebox with your tools and have someone place a small sheaf of wheat or oat straw under the firebox or under waist of boiler if open firebox1 and set fire to it4 ,the expansive force of the water caused by the heat from the burning straw will produce pressure desired4 ,you should know1 however1 that your safety is in perfect order4 ,when the water begins to escape at the safety valve1 you can readily see if you have expanded your flues sufficiently to keep them from leaking4 ,this makes a very nice and steady pressure1 and although the pressure is caused by heat1 it is a cold water pressure1 as the water is not heated beyond one or two degrees4 ,this mode of testing1 however1 cannot be applied in very cold weather1 as water has no expansive force five degrees above or five degrees below the freezing point4 ,these tests1 however1 are only for the purpose of trying your flues and are not intended to ascertain the efficiency or strength of your boiler4 ,when this is required1 ,i would advise you to get an expert to do it1 as the best test for this is the hammer test1 and only an expert should attempt it4 ,,part ,,six ,any young engineer who will make use of what he has read will never get his engine into much trouble4 ,manufacturers of farm engines to-day make a specialty of this class of goods1 as they endeavor to build them as simple and of as few parts as possible4 ,they do this well knowing that1 as a rule1 they must be run by men who cannot take a course in practical engineering4 ,if each one of the many thousands of engines that are turned out every year had to have a practical engineer to run it1 it would be better to be an engineer than to own the engine2 and manufacturers knowing this1 they therefore make their engines as simple and with as little liability to get out of order as possible4 ,the simplest form of an engine1 however1 requires of the operator a certain amount of brains and a willingness to do that which he knows should be done2 and if you will follow the instructions you have already received1 you can run your engine as successfully as any one can wish as long as your engine is in order1 and1 as ,i have just stated1 it is not liable to get out of order1 except from constant wear1 and this wear will appear in the boxes1 journals and valve4 ,the brasses on wrist pin and cross-head will probably require your first and most careful attention1 and of these two the wrist or crank box will require the most2 and what is true of one is true of both boxes4 ,it is1 therefore1 not necessary to take up both boxes in instructing you how to handle them4 ,we will take up the box most likely to require your attention4 ,this is the wrist box4 ,you will find this box in two parts or halves4 ,in a new engine you will find that these two halves do not meet on the wrist pin by at least one-eighth of an inch4 ,they are brought up to the pin by means of a wedge-shaped key4 7,i am speaking now of the most common form of wrist boxes4 ,if your engine should not have this key1 it will have something which serves the same purpose47 ,as the brasses wear you can take up this wear by forcing the key down1 which brings the two halves nearer together4 ,you can continue to gradually take up this wear until you have brought them together4 ,you will then see that it is necessary to do something1 in order to take up any more wear1 and this something is to take out the brasses and file about one-sixteenth of an inch off of each brass4 ,this will allow you another eighth of an inch to take up in wear4 ,now here is a nice little problem for you to solve and ,i want you to solve it to your own satisfaction1 and when you do1 you will thoroughly understand it1 and to understand it is to never allow it to get you into trouble4 ,we started out by saying that in a new engine you would most likely find about one-eighth of an inch between the brasses1 and we said you would finally get these brasses1 or halves together1 and would have to take them out and file them4 ,now we have taken up one-eighth of an inch and the result is1 we have lengthened our pitman just one-sixteenth of an inch2 or in other words1 the center of wrist pin and the center of cross-head are just one-sixteenth of an inch further apart than they were before any wear had taken place1 and the piston head has one-sixteenth of an inch more clearance at one end1 and one-sixteenth of an inch less at the other end than it had before4 ,now if we take out the boxes and file them so we have1 another eighth of an inch1 by the time we have taken up this wear1 we will then have this distance doubled1 and we will soon have the piston head striking the end of the cylinder1 and besides1 the engine will not run as smooth as it did4 ,half of the wear comes off of each half1 and the half next to the key is brought up to the wrist pin because of the tapering key1 while the outside half remains in one place4 ,you must therefore place back of this half a thin piece of sheet copper1 or a piece of tin will do4 ,now suppose our boxes had one-eighth of an inch for wear4 ,when we have taken up this much we must put in one-sixteenth of an inch backing 7as it is called71 for we have reduced the outside half by just that amount4 ,we have also reduced the front half the same1 but as we have said1 the tapering key brings this half up to its place4 ,now we think we have made this clear enough and we will leave this and go back to the key again4 ,you must remember that we stated that the key was tapering or a wedged shape1 and as a wedge1 is equally as powerful as a screw1 and you must bear in mind that a slight tap will bring these two boxes up tight against the wrist pin4 ,young engineers experience more trouble with this box than with any other part of the engine1 and all because they do not know how to manage it4 ,you should be very careful not to get your box too tight1 and don't imagine that every time there is a little knock about your engine that you can stop it by driving the key down a little more4 ,this is a great mistake that many1 and even old engineers make4 ,i at one time seen a wrist pin and boxes ruined by the engineer trying to stop a knock that came from a loose fly-wheel4 ,it is a fact1 and one that has never been satisfactorily explained1 that a knock coming from almost any part of an engine will appear to be in the wrist4 ,so bear this in mind and don't allow yourself to be deceived in this way1 and never try to stop a knock until you have first located the trouble beyond a doubt4 ,when it becomes necessary to key up your brasses1 you will find it a good safe way to loosen up the set screw which holds the key1 then drive it down till you are satisfied you have it tight4 ,then drive it back again and then with your fist drive the key down as far as you can4 ,you may consider this a peculiar kind of a hammer1 but your boxes will rarely ever heat after being keyed in this manner4 ,,knock ,,in ,,engines ,what makes an engine knock or pound8 ,a loose pillow block box is a good knocker4 ,the pillow block is a box next crank or disc wheel4 ,this box is usually fitted with set bolts and jam nuts4 ,you must also be careful not to set this up too tight1 remembering always that a box when too tight begins to heat and this expands the journal1 causing greater friction4 ,a slight turn of a set bolt one way or the other may be sufficient to cool a box that may be running hot1 or to heat one that may be running cool4 ,a hot box from neglect of oiling can be cooled by supplying oil1 provided it has not already commenced to cut4 ,if it shows any sign of cutting1 the only safe way is to remove the box and clean it thoroughly4 ,loose eccentric yokes will make a knock in an engine1 and it may appear to be in the wrist4 ,you will find packing between the two halves of the yoke4 ,take out a thin sheet of this packing1 but don't take out too much1 as you are liable then to get them too tight and they may stick and cause your eccentrics to slip4 ,we will have more to say about the slipping of the eccentrics4 ,the piston rod loose in cross-head will make a knock1 which also appears in the wrist1 but it is not there4 ,tighten the piston and you will stop it4 ,the piston rod may be keyed in cross head1 or it may be held in place by a nut4 ,the key is less liable to get loose1 but should it work loose a few times it may be necessary to replace it with a new one4 ,and this is one of the things that cause a bad break when it works out or gets loose4 ,if it gets loose it may not come out1 but it will not stand the strain very long in this condition1 and will break1 allowing the piston to come out of cross head1 and you are certain to knock out one cylinder head and possibly both of them4 ,the nut will do the same thing if allowed to come off4 ,so this is one of the connections that will claim your attention once in a while1 but if you train your ear to detect any unusual noise you will discover it as soon as it gives the least in either key or nut4 ,the cross-head loose in the guides will make it knock4 ,if the cross-head is not provided for taking up this wear1 you can take off the guides and file them enough to allow them to come up to the cross-head1 but it is much better to have them planed off1 which insures the guides coming up square against the cross-head and thus prevent any heating or cutting4 ,a loose fly-wheel will most likely puzzle you more than anything else to find the knock4 ,so remember this4 ,the wheel may apparently be tight1 but should the key be the least bit narrow for the groove in shaft1 it will make your engine bump very similar to that caused by too much or too little lead4 ,,lead ,what is lead8 ,lead is space or opening of port on steam end of cylinder1 when engine is on dead center4 7,dead center is the two points of disc or crank wheel at which the crank pin is in direct line with piston and at which no amount of steam will start the engine47 ,different makes of engines differ to such an extent that it is impossible to give any rule or any definite amount of lead for an engine4 ,for instance1 an engine with a port six inches long and one-half inch wide would require much less lead than one with a port four inches long and one inch wide4 ,suppose ,i should say one-sixteenth of an inch was the proper lead4 ,in one engine you would have an opening one-sixteenth of an inch wide and six inches long and in the other you would have one-sixteenth of an inch wide and four inches long2 so you can readily see that it is impossible to give the amount of lead for an engine without knowing the piston area1 length of port1 speed1 etc4 ,lead allows live steam to enter the cylinder just ahead of the piston at the point of finishing the stroke1 and forms a cushion1 and enables the engine to pass the center without a jar4 ,too much lead is a source of weakness to an engine1 as it allows the steam to enter the cylinder too soon and forms a back pressure and tends to prevent the engine from passing the center4 ,it will1 therefore1 make your engine bump1 and make it very difficult to hold the packing in stuffing box4 ,insufficient lead will not allow enough steam to enter the cylinder ahead of piston to afford cushion enough to stop the inertia1 and the result will be that your engine will pound on the wrist pin4 ,you most likely have concluded by this time that lead is no small factor in the smooth running of an engine1 and you1 as a matter of course1 will want to know how you are to obtain the proper lead4 ,well don't worry yourself4 ,your engine is not going to have too much lead today and not enough tomorrow4 ,if your engine was properly set up in the first place the lead will be all right1 and continue to afford the proper lead as long as the valve has not been disturbed from its original position2 and this brings us to the most important duty of an engineer as far as the engine is concerned1 viz3 ,setting the ,valve4 ,,setting ,a ,,valve4 ,the proper and accurate setting of a valve on a steam engine is one of the most important duties that you will have to perform1 as it requires a nicety of calculation and a mechanical accuracy4 ,and when we remember also1 that this is another one of the things for which no uniform rule can be adopted1 owing to the many circumstances which go to make an engine so different under different conditions1 we find it very difficult to give you the light on this part of your duty which we would wish to4 ,we1 however1 hope to make it so clear to you that by the aid of the engine before you1 you can readily understand the conditions and principles which control the valve in the particular engine which you may have under your management4 ,the power and economy of an engine depends largely on the accurate operation of its valve4 ,it is1 therefore1 necessary that you know how to reset it1 should it become necessary to do so4 ,an authority says1 ,bring your engine to a dead center and then adjust your valve to the proper lead4 ,this is all right as far as it goes1 but how are you to find the dead center4 ,i know that it is a common custom in the field to bring the engine to a center by the use of the eye4 ,you may have a good eye1 but it is not good enough to depend on for the accurate setting of a valve4 ,,how ,,to ,,find ,,the ,,dead ,,center ,first1 provide yourself with a tram4 ,this you can do by taking a #a_/d inch iron rod1 about #ah inches long1 and bend about two inches of one end to a sharp angle4 ,then sharpen both ends to a nice sharp point4 ,now1 fasten securely a block of hard wood somewhere near the face of the fly wheel1 so that when the straight end of your tram is placed at a definite point in the block the other1 or hook end1 will reach the crown of fly wheel4 ,be certain that the block cannot move from its place1 and be careful to place the tram at exactly the same point on the block at each time you bring the tram into use4 ,you are now ready to proceed to find the dead center1 and in doing this remember to turn the fly wheel always in the same direction4 ,now1 turn your engine over till it nears one of the centers1 but not quite to it4 ,you will then1 by the aid of a straight-edge make a clear and distinct mark across the guides and cross head4 ,now1 go around to the fly wheel and place the straight end of the tram at same point on the block1 and with the hook end make a mark across the crown or center of face of fly wheel2 now turn your engine past the center and on to the point at which the line on cross head is exactly in line with the lines on guides4 ,now1 place your tram in the same place as before1 and make another mark across the crown of fly wheel4 ,by the use of dividers find the exact center between the two marks made on fly wheel2 mark this point with a center punch4 ,now1 bring the fly wheel to the point at which the tram1 when placed at its proper place on block1 the hook end1 or point1 will touch this punch mark1 and you will have one of the exact dead centers4 ,now1 turn the engine over till it nears the other center1 and proceed exactly as before1 remembering always to place the straight end of tram exactly in same place in block1 and you will find both dead centers as accurately as if you had all the fine tools of an engine builder4 ,you are now ready to proceed with the setting of your valve1 and as you have both dead centers to work from you ought to be able to do it1 as you do not have to depend on your eye to find them1 and by the use of the tram ,you turn your engine to exactly the same point every time you wish to get a center4 ,now remove the cap on steam chest1 bring your engine to a dead center and give your valve the necessary amount of lead on the steam end4 ,now1 we have already stated that we could not give you the proper amount of lead for an engine4 ,it is presumed that the maker of your engine knew the amount best adapted to this engine1 and you can ascertain his idea of this by first allowing1 we will say1 about #a_/af of an inch4 ,now bring your engine to the other center1 and if the lead at the other end is less than #a_/af1 then you must conclude that he intended to allow less than #a_/af1 but should it show more than this1 then it is evident that he intended more than ,i_/,i#af lead2 but in either case you must adjust your valve so as to divide the space1 in order to secure the same lead when on either center4 ,in the absence of any better tool to ascertain if the lead is the same1 make a tapering wooden wedge of soft wood1 turn the engine to a center and force the wedge in the opening made by the valve hard enough to mark the wood2 then turn to the next center1 and if the wedge enters the same distance1 you are correct2 if not1 adjust till it does1 and when you have it set at the proper place you had best mark it by taking a sharp cold chisel and place it so that it will cut into the hub of eccentric and in the shaft2 then hit it a smart blow with a hammer4 ,this should be done after you have set the set screws in eccentric down solid on the shaft4 ,then1 at any time should your eccentric slip1 you have only to bring it back to the chisel mark and fasten it1 and you are ready to go ahead again4 ,this is for a plain or single eccentric engine4 ,a double or reversible engine1 however1 is somewhat more difficult to handle in setting the valve4 ,not that the valve itself is any different from a plain engine1 but from the fact that the link may confuse you1 and while the link may be in position to run the engine one way you may be endeavoring to set the valve to run it the other way4 ,the proper way to proceed with this kind of an engine is to bring the reverse lever to a position to run the engine forward1 then proceed to set your valve the same as on a plain engine4 ,when you have it at the proper place1 tighten just enough to keep from slipping1 then bring your reverse lever to the reverse position and bring your engine to the center4 ,if it shows the same lead for the reverse motion you are then ready to tighten your eccentrics securely1 and they should be marked as before4 ,you may imagine that you will have this to do often4 ,well don't be scared about it4 ,you may run an engine a long time1 and never have to set a valve4 ,i have heard these windy engineers 7you have seen them71 say that they had to go and set ,mr4 ,a's or ,mr4 ,b's valve1 when the facts were1 if they did anything1 it was simply to bring the eccentrics back to their original position4 ,they happened to know that most all engines are plainly marked at the factory1 and all there was to do was to bring the eccentrics back to these marks and fasten them1 and the valve was set4 ,the slipping of the eccentrics is about the only cause for a valve working badly4 ,you should therefore keep all grease and dirt away from these marks2 keep the set screws well tightened1 and notice them frequently to see that they do not slip4 ,should they slip a ,i_/,i#f part of an inch1 a well educated ear can detect it in the exhaust4 ,should they slip a part of a turn as they will some times1 the engine may stop instantly1 or it may cut a few peculiar circles for a minute or two1 but don't get excited1 look to the eccentrics at once for the trouble4 ,your engine may however act very queer some time1 and you may find the eccentrics in their proper place4 ,then you must go into the steam chest for the trouble4 ,the valves in different engines are fastened on valve rod in different ways4 ,some are held in place by jam nuts2 a nut may have worked loose1 causing lost motion on the valve4 ,this will make your engine work badly4 ,other engines hold their valve by a clamp and pin4 ,this pin may work out1 and when it does1 your engine will stop1 very quickly to4 ,if you thoroughly understand the working of the steam1 you can readily detect any defect in your cylinder or steam chest1 by the use of your cylinder cocks4 ,suppose we try them once4 ,turn your engine on the forward center1 now open the cocks and give the engine the steam pressure4 ,if the steam blows out at the forward cock we know that we have sufficient lead4 ,now turn back to the back center1 and give it steam again2 if it blows out the same at this cock1 we can conclude that our valve is in its proper position4 ,now reverse the engine and do the same thing2 if the cocks act the same1 we know we are right4 ,suppose the steam blows out of one cock all right1 and when we bring the engine to the other center no steam escapes from this cock1 then we know that something is wrong with the valve1 and if the eccentrics are in their proper position the trouble must be in the steam chest1 and if we open it up we will find the valve has become loosened on the rod4 ,again suppose we put the engine on a center1 and on giving it steam1 we find the steam blowing out at both cocks4 ,now what is the trouble1 for no engine in perfect shape will allow the steam to blow out of both cocks at the same time4 ,it is one of two things1 and it is difficult to tell4 ,either the cylinder rings leak and allow the steam to blow through1 or else the valve is cut on the seat1 and allows the steam to blow over4 ,either of these two causes is bad1 as it not only weakens your engine1 but is a great waste of fuel and water4 ,the way to determine which of the two causes this1 is to take off the cylinder head1 turn engine on forward center and open throttle slightly4 ,if the steam is seen to blow out of the port at open end of cylinder1 then the trouble is in the valve1 but if not1 you will see it blowing through from forward end of cylinder1 and the trouble is in the cylinder rings4 ,what is the remedy8 ,well1 if the rings are the trouble1 a new set will most likely remedy it should they be of the automatic or self-setting pattern1 but should they be of the spring or adjusting pattern1 you can take out the head and set the rings out to stop this blowing4 ,as most all engines now are using the self-setting rings1 you will most likely require a new set4 ,if the trouble is in the valve or steam chest1 you had best take it off and have the valve seat planed down1 and the valve seated to it4 ,this is the safest and best way4 ,never attempt to dress a valve down1 you are most certain to make a bad job of it4 ,and yet ,i don't like the idea of advising you not to do a thing that can be done1 for ,i do like an engineer who does not run to the shop for every little trouble4 ,however1 unless you have the proper tools you had best not attempt it4 ,the only safe way is to scrape them down1 for if your valve is cut1 you will find the valve seat is cut equally as bad1 and they must both be scraped to a perfect fit4 ,provide yourself with a piece of flat steel1 very hard1 #cx#d inches by about ,i_/#h inch1 with a perfect straight edge4 ,with this scrape the valve and seat to a perfect flat surface1 ,it will be a slower process than scraping wood with a piece of glass1 but you can do it4 ,never use a chisel or a file on a valve4 ,,lubricating ,,oil ,what is oil8 ,oil is a coating for a journal1 or in other words is a lining between bearings4 ,did you ever stop long enough to ask yourself the question8 ,i doubt it4 ,a great many people buy something to use on their engine1 because it is called oil4 ,now if the object in using oil is to keep a lining between the bearings1 is it not reasonable that you use something that will adhere to that which it is to line or cover8 ,gasoline will cover a journal for a minute or two1 and oil a grade better would last a few minutes longer4 ,still another grade would do some better4 ,now if you are running your own engine1 buy the best oil you can buy4 ,you will find it very poor economy to buy cheap oil1 and if you are not posted1 you may pay price enough1 but get a very poor article4 ,if you are running an engine for some one else1 make it part of your contract that you are furnished with a good oil4 ,you can not keep an engine in good shape with a cheap oil4 ,you say you are going to keep your engine clean and bright4 ,not if you must use a poor oil4 ,poor oil is largely responsible for the fast going out of use of the link reverse among the makers of traction engines4 ,while ,i think it very doubtful if this reverse motion can be equalled by any of the late devices4 ,its construction is such as to require the best grade of cylinder oil1 and without this it is very unsatisfactory1 7not because the valves of other valve-motions will do with a poorer grade of oil7 but because its construction is such that as soon as the valve becomes dry it causes the link to jump and pound1 and very soon requires repairing4 ,while the construction of various other devices are such1 that while the valve may be equally as dry it does not show the want of oil so clearly as the old style link4 ,yet as a fact ,i care not what the valve motion may be1 it requires a good grade of oil4 ,you may ask how am ,i to know when ,i am getting a good grade of oil4 ,the best way is to ascertain a good brand of oil then use that and nothing else4 ,we are not selling oil1 or advertising oil4 ,however before ,i get through ,i propose to give you the name of a good brand of cylinder oil1 a good engine oil as well as good articles of various attachments1 which cut no small figure in the success you may have in running an engine4 ,it is not an uncommon thing for an engineer 7,i don't like to call him an engineer either7 to fill his sight feed lubricator with ordinary engine oil1 and then wonder why his cylinder squeaks4 ,the reason is that this grade of oil cannot stand the heat in the cylinder or steam chest4 ,if you are carrying #ij pounds of steam you have about #cbj degrees of heat in your cylinder1 with ,i#bj to ,i#be pounds you will have about #cej degrees of heat1 and in order to lubricate your valve and valve-seat1 and also the cylinder surface1 you must use an oil1 that will not only stand this heat but considerable more so that it will have some staying qualities4 ,then if you are using a good quality of oil and your link or reverse begins to knock1 it is because some part of it wants attention1 and you must look after it4 ,and here is where ,i want to insist that you teach your ear to be your guide4 ,you ought to be able to detect the slightest sound that is unnatural to your engine4 ,your eyes may be deceived1 but a well trained ear can not be fooled4 ,i was once invited by an engineer to come out and see how nice his engine was running4 ,i went1 and found that the engine itself was running very smooth1 in fact almost noiseless1 but he looked very much disappointed when ,i asked him why he was doing all his work with one end of cylinder4 ,he asked me what ,i meant1 and ,i had some difficulty in getting him to detect the difference in the exhaust of the two ends1 in fact the engine was only making one exhaust to a revolution4 ,he was one of those engineers who never discovered anything wrong until he could see it4 ,did you know that there are people in the world whose mental capacity can only grasp one idea at a time4 ,that is when their minds are on any one object or principle they can not see or observe anything else4 ,that was the case with this engineer1 his mind had been thoroughly occupied in getting all the reciprocating 7moving7 parts perfectly adjusted1 and if the exhaust had made all sorts of peculiar noises1 he would not have discovered it4 ,the one idead man will not make a successful engineer4 ,the good engineer can stand by and at a glance take in the entire engine1 from tank to top of smoke stack4 ,he has the faculty of noting mentally1 what he sees1 and what he hears1 and by combining the results of the two1 he is enabled to size up the condition of the engine at a glance4 ,this1 however1 only come with experience1 and verges on expertness4 ,and if you wish to be an expert1 learn to be observing4 ,it is getting very common among engineers to use hard grease on the crank pin and main journals1 and it will very soon be used exclusively4 ,with a good grade of grease your crank will not heat near so quickly as with oil and your engine will be much easier to keep clean2 and if you are going to be an engineer be a neat one1 keep your engine clean and keep yourself clean4 ,you say you can't do that2 but you can at least keep yourself respectable4 ,you will most certainly keep your engine looking as though it had an engineer4 ,keep a good bunch of waste handy1 and when it is necessary to wipe your hands use the waste and not your overalls1 and when you go in to a nice dinner the cook will not say after you go out1 ,look here where that dirty engineer sat4 ,now boys1 these are things worth heeding4 ,i have actually known threshing crews to lose good customers simply because of their dirty clothes4 ,the women kicked and they had a right to kick4 ,but to return to hard grease and suitable cups for same4 ,in attaching these grease cups on boxes not previously arranged for them1 it would be well for you to know how to do it properly4 ,you will remove the journal1 take a gouge and cut a clean groove across the box1 starting in at one corner1 about ,i_/#h of an inch from the point of box and cut diagonally across coming out at the opposite corner on the other end of box4 ,then start at the opposite corner and run through as before1 crossing the first groove in the center of box4 ,groove both halves of box the same1 being careful not to cut out at either end1 as this will allow the grease to escape from box and cause unnecessary waste4 ,the chimming or packing in box should be cut so as to touch the journal at both ends of box1 but not in the center or between these two points4 ,so1 when the top box is brought down tight1 this will form another reservoir for the grease4 ,if the box is not tapped directly in the center for cup1 it will be necessary to cut other grooves from where it is tapped into the grooves already made4 ,a box prepared in his way will require but little attention if you use good grease4 ,a ,,hot ,,box ,you will sometimes get a hot box4 ,what is the best remedy8 ,well1 ,i might name you a dozen1 and if ,i did you would most likely never have one on hand when it was wanted4 ,so will only give you one1 and that is white lead and oil1 and ,i want you to provide yourself with a can of this useful article4 ,and should a journal or box get hot on your hands and refuse to cool with the usual methods1 remove the cup1 and after mixing a portion of the lead with oil1 put a heavy coat of it on the journal1 put back the cup and your journal will cool off very quickly4 ,be careful to keep all grit or dust out of your can of lead4 ,look after this part of it yourself4 ,it is your business4 ,,part ,,seven ,before taking up the handling of a ,traction ,engine1 we want to tell you of a number of things you are likely to do which you ought not to do4 ,don't open the throttle too quickly1 or you may throw the drive belt off1 and are also more apt to raise the water and start priming4 ,don't attempt to start the engine with the cylinder cocks closed1 but make it a habit to open them when you stop2 this will always insure your cylinder being free from water on starting4 ,don't talk too much while on duty4 ,don't pull the ashes out of ash pan unless you have a bucket of water handy4 ,don't start the pump when you know you have low water4 ,don't let it get low4 ,don't let your engine get dirty4 ,don't say you can't keep it clean4 ,don't leave your engine at night till you have covered it up4 ,don't let the exhaust nozzle lime up1 and don't allow lime to collect where the water enters the boiler1 or you may split a heater pipe or knock the top off of a check valve4 ,don't leave your engine in cold weather without first draining all pipes4 ,don't disconnect your engine with a leaky throttle4 ,don't allow the steam to vary more than ,i#j or ,i#e pounds while at work4 ,don't allow anyone to fool with your engine4 ,don't try any foolish experiments on your engine4 ,don't run an old boiler without first having it thoroughly tested4 ,don't stop when descending a steep grade4 ,don't pull through a stockyard without first closing the damper tight4 ,don't pull onto a strange bridge without first examining it4 ,don't run any risk on a bad bridge4 ,a ,,traction ,,engine ,,on ,,the ,,road ,you may know all about an engine4 ,you may be able to build one1 and yet run a traction in the ditch the first jump4 ,it is a fact that some men never can become good operators of a traction engine1 and ,i can't give you the reason why any more than you can tell why one man can handle a pair of horses better than another man who has had the same advantages4 ,and yet if you do ditch your engine a few times1 don't conclude that you can never handle a traction4 ,if you are going to run a traction engine ,i would advise you to use your best efforts to become an expert at it4 ,for the expert will hook up to his load and get out of the neighborhood while the awkward fellow is getting his engine around ready to hook up4 ,the expert will line up to the separator the first time1 while the other fellow will back and twist around for half an hour1 and then not have a good job4 ,now don't make the fatal mistake of thinking that the fellow is an expert who jumps up on his engine and jerks the throttle open and yanks it around backward and forward1 reversing with a snap1 and makes it stand-up on its hind wheels4 ,if you want to be an expert you must begin with the throttle1 therein lies the secret of the real expert4 ,he feels the power of his engine through the throttle4 ,he opens it just enough to do what he wants it to do4 ,he therefore has complete control of his engine4 ,the fellow who backs his engine up to the separator with an open throttle and must reverse it to keep from running into and breaking something1 is running his engine on his muscle and is entitled to small pay4 ,the expert brings his engine back under full control1 and stops it exactly where he wants it4 ,he handles his engine with his head and should be paid accordingly4 ,he never makes a false move1 loses no time1 breaks nothing1 makes no unnecessary noise1 does not get the water all stirred up in the boiler1 hooks up and moves out in the same quiet manner1 and the onlookers think he could pull two such loads1 and say he has a great engine1 while the engineer of muscle would back up and jerk his engine around a half dozen times before he could make the coupling1 then with a jerk and a snort he yanks the separator out of the holes1 and the onlookers think he has about all he can pull4 ,now these are facts1 and they cannot be put too strong1 and if you are going to depend on your muscle to run your engine1 don't ask any more money than you would get at any other day labor4 ,you are not expected to become an expert all at once4 ,three things are essential to be able to handle a traction engine as it should be handled4 ,first1 a thorough knowledge of the throttle4 ,i don't mean that you should simply know how to pull it open and shut it4 ,any boy can do that4 ,but ,i mean that you should be a good judge of the amount of power it will require to do what you may wish to do1 and then give it the amount of throttle that it will require and no more4 ,to illustrate this ,i will give an instance4 ,an expert was called a long distance to see an engine that the operator said would not pull its load over the hills he had to travel4 ,the first pull he had to make after the expert arrived was up the worst hill he had4 ,when he approached the grade he threw off the governor belt1 opened the throttle as wide as he could get it1 and made a run for the hill4 ,the result was1 that he lifted the water and choked the engine down before he was half way up4 ,he stepped off with the remark1 ,that is the way the thing does4 ,the expert then locked the hind wheels of the separator with a timber1 and without raising the pressure a pound1 pulled it over the hill4 ,he gave it just throttle enough to pull the load1 and made no effort to hurry ii1 and still had power to spare4 ,a locomotive engineer makes a run for a hill in order that the momentum of his train will help carry him over4 ,it is not so with a traction and its load2 the momentum that you get don't push very hard4 ,the engineer who don't know how to throttle his engine never knows what it will do1 and therefore has but little confidence in it2 while the engineer who has a thorough knowledge of the throttle and uses it1 always has power to spare and has perfect confidence in his engine4 ,he knows exactly what he can do and what he cannot do4 ,the second thing for you to know is to get onto the tricks of the steer wheel4 ,this will come to you naturally1 and it is not necessary for me to spend much time on it4 ,all new beginners make the mistakes of turning the wheel too often4 ,remember this-that every extra turn to the right requires two turns to the left1 and every extra turn to the left requires two more to the right2 especially is this the care if your engine is fast on the road4 ,the third thing for you to learn1 is to keep your eyes on the front wheels of your engine1 and not be looking back to see if your load in coming4 ,in making a difficult turn you will find it very much to your advantage to go slow1 as it gives you much better control of your front wheels1 and it is not a bad plan for a beginner to continue to go slow till he has perfect confidence in his ability to handle the steer wheel as it may keep you out of some bad scrapes4 ,how about getting into a hole8 ,well1 you are not interested half as much in knowing how to get into a hole as ,you are in knowing how to get out4 ,an engineer never shows the stuff he is made of to such good advantage as when he gets into a hole2 and he is sure to get there1 for one of the traits of a traction engine is its natural ability to find a soft place in the ground4 ,head work will get you out of a bad place quicker than all the steam you can get in your boiler4 ,never allow the drivers to turn without doing some good4 ,if you are in a hole1 and you are able to turn your wheels1 you are not stuck2 but don't allow your wheels to slip1 it only lets you in deeper4 ,if your wheels can't get a footing1 you want to give them something to hold to4 ,most smart engineers will tell you that the best thing is a heavy chain4 ,that is true4 ,so are gold dollars the best things to buy bread with1 but you have not always got the gold dollars1 neither have you always got the chain4 ,old hay or straw is a good thing2 old rails or timber of any kind4 ,the engineer with a head spends more time trying to give his wheels a hold than he does trying to pull out1 while the one without a head spends more time trying to pull out than he does trying to secure a footing1 and the result is1 that the first fellow generally gets out the first attempt1 while the other fellow is lucky if he gets out the first half day4 ,if you have one wheel perfectly secure1 don't spoil it by starting your engine till you have the other just as secure4 ,if you get into a place where your engine is unable to turn its wheels1 then your are stuck1 and the only thing for you to do is to lighten your load or dig out4 ,but under all circumstances your engine should be given the benefit of your judgment4 ,all traction engines to be practical must of a necessity1 be reversible4 ,to accomplish this1 the link with the double eccentric is the one most generally used1 although various other devices are used with more or less success4 ,as they all accomplish the same purpose it is not necessary for us to discuss the merits or demerits of either4 ,the main object is to enable the operator to run his engine either backward or forward at will1 but the link is also a great cause of economy1 as it enables the engineer to use the steam more or less expansively1 as he may use more or less power1 and1 especially is this true1 while the engine is on the road1 as the power required may vary in going a short distance1 anywhere from nothing in going down hill1 to the full power of your engine in going up4 ,by using steam expansively1 we mean the cutting off of the steam from the cylinder1 when the piston has traveled a certain part of its stroke4 ,the earlier in the stroke this is accomplished the more benefit you get of the expansive force of the steam4 ,the reverse on traction engines is usually arranged to cut off at ,i_/#d1 ,i_/#b or #c_/d4 ,to illustrate what is meant by cutting off at ,i_/#d1 ,i_/#b or #c_/d1 we will suppose the engine has a ,i#b inch stroke4 ,the piston begins its stroke at the end of cylinder1 and is driven by live steam through an open port1 #c inches or one quarter of the stroke1 when the port is closed by the valve shutting the steam from the cylinder1 and the piston is driven the remaining #i inches of its stroke by the expansive force of the steam4 ,by cutting off at ,i_/#b we mean that the piston is driven half its stroke or #f inches by live steam1 and by the expansion of the steam the remaining #f inches2 by #c_/d we mean that live steam is used #i inches before cutting off1 and expansively the remaining #c inches of stroke4 ,here is something for you to remember3 ,the earlier in the stroke you cut off the greater the economy1 but less the power2 the later you cut off the less the economy and greater the power4 ,suppose we go into this a little farther4 ,if you are carrying ,i#jj pounds pressure and cut off at ,i_/#d1 you can readily see the economy of fuel and water1 for the steam is only allowed to enter the cylinder during ,i_/#d of its stroke2 but by reason of this1 you only get an average pressure on the piston head of #ei pounds throughout the stroke4 ,but if this is sufficient to do the work1 why not take advantage of it and thereby save your fuel and water8 ,now1 with the same pressure as before1 and cutting off at ,i_/#b1 you have an average pressure on piston head of #hd pounds1 a loss of #ej per cent in economy and a gain of #db per cent in power4 ,cutting of at #c_/d gives you an average pressure of #if pounds throughout the stroke4 ,a loss on cutting off at ,i_/#d of #ge per cent in economy1 and a gain of nearly #fc per cent in power4 ,this shows that the most available point at which to work steam expansively is at ,i_/#d1 as the percentage of increase of power does not equal the percentage of loss in economy4 ,the nearer you bring the reverse lever to center of quadrant1 the earlier will the valve cut the steam and the less will be the average pressure1 while the farther away from the center the later in the stroke will the valve cut the steam1 and the greater the average pressure1 and1 consequently1 the greater the power4 ,we have seen engineers drop the reverse back in the last notch in order to make a hard pull1 and were unable to tell why they did so4 ,now1 as far as doing the work is concerned1 it is not absolutely necessary that you know this2 but if you do know it1 you are more likely to profit by it and thereby get the best results out of your engine4 ,and as this is our object1 we want you to know it1 and be benefitted by the knowledge4 ,suppose you are on the road with your engine and load1 and you have a stretch of nice road4 ,you are carrying a good head of steam and running with lever back in the corner or lower notch4 ,now your engine will travel along its regular speed1 and say you run a mile this way and fire twice in making it4 ,you now ought to be able to turn around and go back on the same road with one fire by simply hooking the lever up as short as it will allow to do the work4 ,your engine will make the same time with half the fuel and water1 simply because you utilize the expansive force of the steam instead of using the live steam from boiler4 ,a great many good engines are condemned and said to use too much fuel1 and all because the engineer takes no pains to utilize the steam to the best advantage4 ,i have already advised you to carry a high pressure2 by a high pressure ,i mean any where from ,i#jj to ,i#be lbs4 ,i have done this expecting you to use the steam expansively whenever possible1 and the expansive force of steam increases very rapidly after you have reached #gj lbs4 ,steam at #hj lbs4 used expansively will do nine times the work of steam at #be lbs4 ,note the difference4 ,pressure #c ,i-#e times greater4 ,work performed1 #i times greater4 ,i give you these facts trusting that you will take advantage of them1 and if your engine at ,i#jj or ,i#jj lbs4 will do your work cutting off at ,i_/#d1 don't allow it to cut off at ,i_/#b4 ,if cutting off at ,i_/#b will do the work1 don't allow it to cut off at #c_/d1 and the result will be that you will do the work with the least possible amount of fuel1 and no one will have any reason to find fault with you or your engine4 ,now we have given you the three points which are absolutely necessary to the successful handling of a traction engine1 ,we went through it with you when running as a stationary2 then we gave you the pointers-to be observed when running as a traction or road engine4 ,we have also given you hints on economy1 and if you do not already know too much to follow our advice1 you can go into the field with an engine and have no fears as to the results4 ,how about bad bridges8 ,well1 a bad bridge is a bad thing1 and you cannot be too careful4 ,when you have questionable bridges to cross over1 you should provide yourself with good hard-wood planks4 ,if you can have them sawed to order have them #c inches in the center and tapering to #b inches at the ends4 ,you should have two of these about #af feet long1 and two #bx#ab planks about #h feet long4 ,the short ones for culverts1 and for helping with the longer ones in crossing longer bridges4 ,an engine should never be allowed to drop from a set of planks down onto the floor of bridge4 ,this is why ,i advocate four planks4 ,don't hesitate to use the plank4 ,you had better plank a dozen bridges that don't need it than to attempt to cross one that does need it4 ,you will also find it very convenient to carry at least #ej feet of good heavy rope4 ,don't attempt to pull across a doubtful bridge with the separator or tank hooked directly to the engine4 ,it is dangerous4 ,here is where you want the rope4 ,an engine should be run across a bad bridge very slowly and carefully1 and not allowed to jerk4 ,in extreme cases it is better to run across by hand2 don't do this but once2 get after the road supervisors4 ,,sand4 ,an engineer wants a sufficient amount of sand1 but he don't want it in the road4 ,however1 you will find it there and it is the meanest road you will have to travel4 ,a bad sand road requires considerable sleight of hand on the part of the engineer if he wishes to pull much of a load through it4 ,you will find it to your advantage to keep your engine as straight as possible1 as you are not so liable to start one wheel to slipping any sooner than the other4 ,never attempt to wiggle through a sand bar1 and don't try to hurry through2 be satisfied with going slow1 just so you are going4 ,an engine will stand a certain speed through sand1 and the moment you attempt to increase that speed1 you break its footing1 and then you are gone4 ,in a case of this kind1 a few bundles of hay is about the best thing you can use under your drivers in order to get started again4 ,but don't loose your temper2 it won't help the sand any4 ,now no doubt the reader wonders why ,i have said nothing about compound engines4 ,well in the first place1 it is not necessary to assist you in your work1 and if you can handle the single cylinder engine1 you can handle the compound4 ,the question as to the advantage of a compound engine is1 or would be an interesting one if we cared to discuss it4 ,the compound traction engine has come into use within the past few years1 and ,i am inclined to think more for sort of a novelty or talking point rather than to produce a better engine4 ,there is no question but that there is a great advantage in the compound engine1 for stationary and marine engines4 ,in a compound engine the steam first enters the small or high pressure cylinder and is then exhausted into the large or low pressure cylinder1 where the expansive force is all obtained4 ,two cylinders are used because we can get better results from high pressure in the use of two cylinders of different areas than by using but one cylinder1 or simple engine4 ,that there is a gain in a high pressure1 can be shown very easily3 ,for instance1 #ajj pounds of coal will raise a certain amount of water from #fj degrees1 to #e pounds steam pressure1 and #ajb4i pounds would raise the same water to #hj pounds1 and #ajd4d would raise it to #afj pounds1 and this #afj pounds would produce a large increase of power over the #hj pounds at a very slight increase of fuel4 ,the compound engine will furnish the same number of horse power1 with less fuel than the simple engine1 but only when they are run at the full load all the time4 ,if1 however1 the load fluctuates and should the load be light for any considerable part of the day1 they will waste the fuel instead of saving it over the simple engine4 ,no engine can be subjected to more variation of loads than the traction engine1 and as the above are facts the reader can draw his own conclusions4 ,,friction ,,clutch ,the friction clutch is now used almost exclusively for engaging the engine with the propelling gearing of the traction drivers1 and it will most likely give you more trouble than any one thing on your engine1 from the fact that to be satisfactory they require a nicety of adjustment1 that is very difficult to attain1 a half turn of the expansion bolt one way or the other may make your clutch work very nicely1 or very unsatisfactory1 and you can only learn this by carefully adjusting of friction shoes1 until you learn just how much clearance they will stand when lever is out1 in order to hold sufficient when lever is thrown in4 ,if your clutch fails to hold1 or sticks1 it is not the fault of the clutch1 it is not adjusted properly4 ,and you may have it correct today and tomorrow it will need readjustment1 caused by the wear in the shoes2 you will have to learn the clutch by patience and experience4 ,but ,i want to say to you that the friction clutch is a source of abuse to many a good engineer1 because the engineer uses no judgment in its use4 ,a certain writer on engineering makes use of the following1 and gives me credit3 ,sometimes you may come to an obstacle in the road1 over which your engine refuses to go1 you may perhaps get over it in this way1 throw the clutch-lever so as to disconnect the road wheels1 let the engine get up to full speed and then throw the clutch level back so as to connect the road wheels4 ,now ,i don't thank any one for giving me credit for saying any such thing4 ,that kind of thing is the hight of abuse of an engine4 ,i am aware that when the friction clutch first came into use1 their representatives made a great talk on that sort of thing to the green buyer4 ,but the good engineer knows better than to treat his engine that way4 ,never attempt to pull your loads over a steep hill without being certain that your clutch is in good shape1 and if you have any doubts about it put in the tight gear pin4 ,most all engines have both the friction and the tight gear pin4 ,the pin is much the safer in a hilly country1 and if you have learned the secret of the throttle you can handle just as big load with the pin as with the clutch1 and will never tear your gearing off or lose the stud bolts in boiler4 ,the following may assist you in determining or arriving at some idea of the amount of power you are supplying with your engine3 ,for instance1 a ,i inch belt of the standard grade with the proper tention1 neither too tight or too loose1 running at a4 maximum spead of #hjj ft4 a minute will transmit one horse power1 running #afjj ft4 #b horse power and #bdjj ft4 #c horse power4 ,a #b inch belt1 at the same speed1 twice the power4 ,now if you know the circumference of your fly wheel1 the number of revolutions your engine is making and the width of belt1 you can figure very nearly the amount of power you can supply without slipping your belt4 ,for instance1 we will say your fly wheel is #dj inches in diameter or #aj4e feet nearly in circumference and your engine was running #bbe revolutions a minute1 your belt would be traveling #bbe x #aj4e feet #bcfb4e feet or very nearly #bdjj ft4 and if ,i inch of belt would transmit #c ,h4 ,p4 running this speed1 a #f inch belt would transmit #ah ,h4,p41 a #g inch belt1 #ba ,h4,p41 an #h inch belt #bd ,h4,p41 and so on4 ,with the above as a basis for figuring you can satisfy yourself as to the power you are furnishing4 ,to get the best results a belt wants to sag slightly as it hugs the pulley closer1 and will last much longer4 ,,something ,,about ,,sight-,,feed ,,lubricators ,all such lubricators feed oil through the drop-nipple by hydrostatic pressure2 that is1 the water of condensation in the condenser and its pipe being elevated above the oil magazine forces the oil out of the latter by just so much pressure as the column of water is higher than the exit or outlet of oil-nipple4 ,the higher the column of water the more positive will the oil feeds4 ,as soon as the oil drop leaves the nipple it ceases to be actuated by the hydrostatic pressure1 and rises through the water in the sight-glass merely by the difference of its specific gravity1 as compared with water and then passes off through the ducts provided to the parts to be lubricated4 ,for stationary engines the double connection is preferable1 and should always be connected to the live steam pipe above the throttle4 ,the discharge arm should always be long enough 7#d to #f inches7 to insure the oil magazine and condenser from getting too hot1 otherwise it will not condense fast enough to give continuous feed of oil4 ,for traction or road engines the single connection is used4 ,these can be connected to live steam pipe or directly to steam chest4 ,in a general way it may be stated that certain precaution must be taken to insure the satisfactory operation of all sight-feed lubricators4 ,use only the best of oil1 one gallon of which is worth five gallons of cheap stuff and do far better service1 as inferior grades not only clog the lubricator but chokes the ducts and blurs the sight-glass1 etc41 and the refuse of such oil will accumulate in the cylinder sufficiently to cause damage and loss of power1 far exceeding the difference in cost of good oil over the cheap grades4 ,after attaching a lubricator1 all valves should be opened wide and live steam blown through the outer vents for a few minutes to insure the openings clean and free4 ,then follow the usual directions given with all lubricators4 ,be particular in getting your lubricator attached so it will stand perfectly plum1 in order that the drop can pass up through the glass without touching the sides1 and keep the drop-nipple clean1 be particular to drain in cold weather4 ,now1 ,i am about to leave you alone with your engine1 just as ,i have left any number of young engineers after spending a day with them in the field and on the road4 ,and ,i never left one1 that ,i had not already made up my mind fully1 as to what kind of an engineer he would make4 ,,two ,,ways ,,of ,,reading ,now there are two ways to read this book1 and if ,i know just how you had read it ,i could tell you in a minute whether to take hold of an engine or leave it alone4 ,if you have read it one way1 you are most likely to say it is no trick to run an engine4 ,if you have read it the other way you will say1 ,it is no trouble to learn how to run an engine4 ,now this fellow will make an engineer1 and will be a good one4 ,he has read it carefully1 noting the drift of my advice4 ,has discovered that the engineer is not expected to build an engine1 or to improve it after it has been built4 ,has recognized the fact that the principle thing is to attend to his own business and let other people attend to theirs4 ,that a monkey wrench is a tool to be left in the tool box till he knows he needs it4 ,that muscle is a good thing to have but not necessary to the successful engineer4 ,that an engineer with a bunch of waste in his hand is a better recommendation than an engineer license4 ,that good common sense1 and a cool head is the very best tools he can have4 ,has learned that carelessness will get him into trouble1 and that to forget costs money4 ,now the fellow who said ,it is no trick to run an engine1 read this book another way4 ,he did not see the little points4 ,he was hunting for big theories1 scientific theories1 something he could not understand1 and didn't find them4 ,he expected to find some bright scheme to prevent a boiler from exploding1 didn't notice the simple little statement1 keep water in it1 that was too commonplace to notice4 ,he was looking for cuts1 diagrams1 geometrical figures1 theories for constructing engines and boilers and all that sort of thing and didn't find them4 ,hence ,it is no trick to run an engine4 ,if this has been your idea of ,rough and ,tumble ,engineering forget all about your theory1 and go back and read it over and remember the little suggestions and don't expect this book to teach you how to build an engine4 ,we didn't start out to teach you anything of the kind4 ,that is a business of itself4 ,a good engineer gets better money than the man who builds them4 ,read it as if you wanted to know how to run an engine and not how to build one4 ,study the following questions and answers carefully4 ,don't learn them like you would a piece of poetry1 but study them1 see if they are practical2 make yourself thoroughly acquainted with the rule for measuring the horse-power of an engine2 make yourself so familiar with it that you could figure any engine without referring to the book4 ,don't stop at this1 learn to figure the heating surface in any boiler4 ,it will enable you to satisfy yourself whether you are working your boiler or engine too hard or what it ought to be capable of doing4 ,,some ,,things ,,to ,,know ,q4 ,what is fire8 ,a4 ,fire is the rapid combustion or consuming of organic matter4 ,q4 ,what is water8 ,a4 ,water is a compound of oxygen and hydrogen4 ,in weight #hh #i-;,i#j parts oxygen to ,,ii ,i-,i#j hydrogen4 ,it has its maximum density at #ci degrees ,fahr41 changes to steam at #b;,i#b degrees1 and to ice at #cb degrees4 ,q4 ,what is smoke8 ,a4 ,it is unconsumed carbon finely divided escaping into open air4 ,q4 ,is excessive smoke a waste of fuel8 ,a4 ,yes4 ,q4 ,how will you prevent it ,a4 ,keep a thin fire1 and admit cold air sufficient to insure perfect combustion4 ,q4 ,what is low water as applied to a boiler8 ,a4 ,it is when the water is insufficient to cover all parts exposed to the flames4 ,q4 ,what is the first thing to do on discovering that you have low water8 ,a4 ,pull out the fire4 ,q4 ,would it be safe to open the safety valve at such time8 ,a4 ,no4 ,q4 ,why not8 ,a4 ,it would relieve the pressure on the water which being allowed to flow over the excessive hot iron would flash into steam1 and might cause an explosion4 ,q4 ,why do boilers sometimes explode just on the point of starting the engine8 ,a4 ,because starting the engine has the same effect as opening the safety valve4 ,q4 ,are there any circumstances under which an engineer is justified in allowing the water to get low8 ,a4 ,no4 ,q4 ,why do they sometimes do it8 ,a4 ,from carelessness or ignorance4 ,q4 ,may not an engineer be deceived in the gauge of water8 ,a4 ,yes4 ,q4 ,is he to be blamed under such circumstances8 ,a4 ,yes4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,because if he is deceived by it it shows he has neglected something4 ,q4 ,what is meant by ,priming4 ,a4 ,it is the passing of water in visible quantities into the cylinder with the steam4 ,q4 ,what would you consider the first duty of an engineer on discovering that the water was foaming or priming ,a4 ,open the cylinder cocks at once1 and throttle the steam4 ,q4 ,why would you do this8 ,a4 ,open the cocks to enable the water to escape1 and throttle the steam so that the water would settle4 ,q4 ,is foaming the same as priming8 ,a4 ,yes and no4 ,q4 ,how do you make that out8 ,a4 ,a boiler may foam without priming1 but it can't prime without first foaming44 ,q4 ,where will you first discover that the water is foaming8 ,a4 ,it will appear in the glass gauge1 the glass will have a milky appearance and the water will seem to be running down from the top1 ,there will be a snapping or cracking in the cylinder as quick as priming begins4 ,q4 ,what causes a boiler to foam8 ,a4 ,there are a number of causes4 ,it may come from faulty construction of boiler2 it may have insufficient steam room4 ,it may be1 and usually is1 from the use of bad water1 muddy or stagnant water1 or water containing any soapy substance4 ,q4 ,what would you do after being bothered in this way8 ,a4 ,clean out the-boiler and get better water if possible4 ,q4 ,how would you manage your pumps while the water was foaming4 ,a4 ,keep them running full4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,in order to make up for the extra amount of water going out with the steam4 ,q4 ,what is cushion8 ,a4 ,cushion is steam retained or admitted in front of the piston head at the finish of stroke1 or when the engine is on center4 ,q4 ,what is it for8 ,a4 ,it helps to overcome the inertia and momentum of the reciprocating parts of the engine1 and enables the engine to pass the center without a jar4 ,q4 ,how would you increase the cushion in an engine8 ,a4 ,by increasing the lead4 ,q4 ,what is lead8 ,a4 ,it is the amount of opening the port shows on steam end of cylinder when the engine is on dead center4 ,q4 ,is there any rule for giving an engine the proper lead8 ,a4 ,no4 ,q4 ,why not8 ,a4 ,owing to their variation in construction1 speed1 etc4 ,q4 ,what would you consider the proper amount of lead1 generally4 ,a4 ,from ,i_/#cb to ,i_/,i#f4 ,q4 ,what is lap8 ,a4 ,it is the distance the valve overlaps the steam ports when in mid position4 ,q4 ,what is lap for8 ,a4 ,in order that the steam may be worked expansively4 ,q4 ,when does expansion occur in a cylinder8 ,a4 ,during the time between which the port closes and the point at which the exhaust opens4 ,q4 ,what would be the effect on an engine if the exhaust opened too soon8 ,a4 ,it would greatly lessen the power of the engine4 ,q4 ,what effect would too much lead have4 ,a4 ,it would also weaken the engine1 as the steam would enter before the piston had reached the end of the stroke1 and would tend to prevent it passing the center4 ,q4 ,what is the stroke of an engine8 ,a4 ,it is the distance the piston travels in the cylinder4 ,q4 ,how do you find the speed of a piston per minute8 ,a4 ,double the stroke and multiply it by the number of revolutions a minuet4 ,thus an engine with a #ab inch stroke would travel #bd inches1 or #b feet1 at a revolution4 ,if it made #bjj revolutions a minute1 the travel of piston would be #djj feet a minute4 ,q4 ,what is considered a horse power as applied to an engine8 ,a4 ,it is power sufficient to lift #cc1jjj pounds one foot high in one minute4 ,q4 ,what is the indicated horse power of an engine8 ,a4 ,it is the actual work done by the steam in the cylinder as shown by an indicator4 ,q4 ,what is the actual horse power8 ,a4 ,it is the power actually given off by the driving belt and pulley4 ,q4 ,how would you find the horse power of an engine8 ,a4 ,multiply the area of the piston by the average pressure1 less #e2 multiply this product by the number of feet the piston travels per minute2 divide the product by #cc1jjj2 the result will be horse power of the engine4 ,q4 ,how will you find the area of piston8 ,a4 ,square the diameter of piston and multiply it by 4#ghed4 ,q4 ,what do you mean by squaring the diameter8 ,a4 ,multiplying it by itself4 ,if a cylinder is #f inches in diameter1 #cf multiplied by 4#ghed1 gives the area in square inches4 ,q4 ,what do you mean by average pressure8 ,a4 ,if the pressure on boiler is #fj pounds1 and the engine is cutting off at #a_/b stroke1 the pressure for the full stroke would be #ej pounds4 ,q4 ,why do you say less #e pounds8 ,a4 ,to allow for friction and condensation4 ,q4 ,what is the power of a #g x #aj engine1 running #bjj revolutions1 cutting off at #a_/b stroke with #fj pounds steam8 ,a4 #g x #g #di x 4#ghed #ch4dhdf4 ,the average pressure of #fj pounds would be #ej pounds less #e #de pounds2 #ch-dhdf x #de #agca4hjgj x 4#ccc #a_/c1 7the number of feet the piston travels per minute7 #egg1bfi4jjjj by #cc1jjjag #a_/b horse power4 ,q4 ,what is a high pressure engine8 ,a4 ,it is an engine using steam at a high pressure and exhausting into the open air4 ,q4 ,what is a low pressure engine8 ,a4 ,it is one using steam at a low pressure and exhausting into a condenser1 producing a vacuum1 the piston being under steam pressure on one side and vacuum on the other4 ,q4 ,what class of engines are farm engines8 ,a4 ,they are high pressure4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,they are less complicated and less expensive4 ,q4 ,what is the most economical pressure to carry on high pressure engine8 ,a4 ,from #ij to #aaj pounds4 ,q4 ,why is high pressure more economical than low pressure8 ,a4 ,because the loss is greater in low pressure owing to the atmospheric pressure4 ,with #de pounds steam the pressure from the atmosphere is #ae pounds1 or #a_/c1 leaving only #cj pounds of effective power2 while with #ij pounds the atmospheric pressure is only #a-f of the boiler pressure4 ,q4 ,does it require any more fuel to carry ,i#jj pounds than it does to carry #fj pounds8 ,a4 ,it don't require quite as much4 ,q4 ,if that is the case why not increase the pressure beyond this and save more fuel8 ,a4 ,because we would soon pass the point of safety in a boiler1 and the result would be the loss of life and property4 ,q4 ,what do you consider a safe working pressure on a boiler8 ,a4 ,that depends entirely on its diameter4 ,while a boiler of #cj inches in diameter #c_/h inch iron would carry ,i#dj pounds1 a boiler of the same thickness #hj inches in diameter would have a safe working pressure of only #ej pounds1 which shows that the safe working pressure decreases very rapidly as we increase the diameter of boiler4 ,this is the safe working pressure for single riveted boilers of this diameter4 ,to find the safe working pressure of a double riveted boiler of same diameter multiply the safe pressure of the single riveted by #gj1 and divide by #ef1 will give a safe pressure of a double riveted boiler4 ,q4 ,why is a steel boiler superior to an iron boiler8 ,a4 ,because it is much lighter and stronger4 ,q4 ,does boiler plate become stronger or weaker as it becomes heated8 ,a4 ,it becomes tougher or stronger as it is heated1 till it reaches a temperature ,of #eej degrees when it rapidly decreases its power of resistance as it is heated beyond this temperature4 ,q4 ,how do you account for this8 ,a4 ,because after you pass the maximum temperature of #eej degrees1 the more you raise the temperature the nearer you approach its fusing point when its tenacity or resisting power is nothing4 ,q4 ,what is the degree of heat necessary to fuse iron8 ,a4 #biab degrees4 ,q4 ,steel8 ,a4 #becb degrees4 ,q4 ,what class of boilers are generally used in a threshing engine8 ,a4 ,the flue boiler and the tubular boiler4 ,q4 ,about what amount of heating and grate surface is required per horse power in a flue boiler4 ,a4 ,about #ae square feet of heating surface and #c_/d square feet of grate surface4 ,q4 ,what would you consider a fair evaporation in a flue boiler8 ,a4 ,six pounds of water to ,i pound of coal4 ,q4 ,how do these dimensions compare in a tubular boiler4 ,a4 ,a tubular boiler will require ,i_/#d less grate surface1 and will evaporate about #h pounds of water to ,i pound of coal4 ,q4 ,which do you consider the most available8 ,a4 ,the tubular boiler4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,it is more economical and is less liable to collapse8 ,q4 ,what do you mean by collapse8 ,a4 ,it is a crushing in of a flue by external pressure4 ,q4 ,is a tube of a large diameter more liable to collapse than one of small diameter8 ,a4 ,yes4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,because its power of resistance is much less than a tube of small diameter4 ,q4 ,is the pressure on the shell of a boiler the same as on the tubes8 ,a4 ,no4 ,q4 ,what is the difference8 ,a4 ,the shell of boiler has a tearing or internal pressure while the tubes have a crushing or external pressure4 ,q4 ,what causes an explosion8 ,a4 ,an explosion occurs generally from low water1 allowing the iron to become overheated and thereby weakened and unable to withstand the pressure4 ,q4 ,what is a burst8 ,a4 ,it is that which occurs when through any defect the water and steam are allowed to escape freely without further injury to boiler4 ,q4 ,what is the best way to prevent an explosion or burst8 ,a4 7,i7 ,never go beyond a safe working pressure4 7#b7 ,keep the boiler clean and in good repair4 7#c7 ,keep the safety valves in good shape and the water at its proper height4 ,q4 ,what is the first thing to do on going to your engine in the morning8 ,a4 ,see that the water is at its proper level4 ,q4 ,what is the proper level8 ,a4 ,up to the second gauge4 ,q4 ,when should you test or try the pop valve8 ,a4 ,as soon as there is a sufficient pressure4 ,q4 ,how would you start your engine after it had been standing over night8 ,a4 ,slowly4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,in order to allow the cylinder to become hot1 and that the water or condensed steam may escape without injury to the cylinder4 ,q4 ,what is the last thing to do at night8 ,a4 ,see that there is plenty of water in boiler1 and if the weather is cold drain all pipes4 ,q4 ,what care should be taken of the fusable plug8 ,a4 ,keep it scraped clean1 and not allow it to become corroded on top4 ,q4 ,what is a fusible plug8 ,a4 ,it is a hollow cast plug screwed into the crown sheet or top of fire box1 and having the hollow or center filled with lead or babbit4 ,q4 ,is such a plug a protection to a boiler8 ,a4 ,it is if kept in proper condition4 ,q4 ,can you explain the principle of the fusible or soft plug as it is sometimes called8 ,a4 ,it is placed directly over the fire1 and should the water fall below the crown sheet the lead fuses or melts and allows the steam to flow down on top of the fire1 destroys the heat and prevents the burning of crown sheet4 ,q4 ,why don't the lead fuse with water over it8 ,a4 ,because the water absorbs the heat and prevents it reaching the fusing point4 ,q4 ,what is the fusing point of lead8 ,a4 #fah degrees4 ,q4 ,is there any objection to the soft plug8 ,a4 ,there is1 in the hands of some engineers4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,it relieves him of the fear of a dry crown sheet1 and gives him an apparent excuse for low water4 ,q4 ,is this a real or legitimate objection8 ,a4 ,it is not4 ,q4 ,what are the two distinct classes of boilers8 ,a4 ,the externally and internally fired boilers4 ,q4 ,which is the most economical8 ,a4 ,the internally fired boiler4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,because the fuel is all consumed in close contact with the sides of furnace and the loss from radiation is less than in the externally fired4 ,q4 ,to what class does the farm or traction engine belong8 ,a4 ,to the internally fired4 ,q4 ,how would you find the ,h4,p4 of such a boiler8 ,a4 ,multiply in inches the circumference or square of furnace1 by its length1 then multiply1 the circumference of one tube by its total length1 and this product by the number of tubes also taking into account the surface in tube sheet1 add these products together and divide by ,i#dd1 this will give you the number of square feet of heating surface in boiler4 ,divide this by #ad or #ae which will give the ,h4,p4 of boiler4 ,q4 ,why do you say #ad or #ae8 ,a4 ,because some claim that it requires #ad feet of heating surface to the ,h4,p4 and others #ae4 ,to give you my personal opinion ,i believe that any of the standard engines today with good coal and properly handled1 will and are producing #a ,h4,p4 for as low as every #aj feet of surface4 ,but to be on the safe side it is well to divide by #ae to get the ,h4,p4 of your boiler1 when good and bad fuel is considered4 ,q4 ,how would you find the approximate weight of a boiler by measurement8 ,a4 ,find the number of square feet in surface of boiler and fire box1 and as a sheet of boiler iron or steel #a_/af of an inch thick1 and one foot square1 weighs #b4eb pounds1 would multiply the number of square feet by #b4eb and this product by the number of #afths or thickness of boiler sheet1 which would give the approximate1 or very near the weight of the boiler4 ,q4 ,what would you recognize as points in a good engineer4 ,a4 ,a good engineer keeps his engine clean1 washes the boiler whenever he thinks it needs it4 ,never meddles with his engine1 and allows no one else to do so4 ,goes about his work quietly1 and is always in his place1 only talks when necessary1 never hammers or bruises any part of his engine1 allows no packing to become baked or burnt in the stuffing box or glands1 renews them as quick as they show that they require it4 ,never neglects to oil1 and then uses no more than is necessary4 ,he carries a good gauge of water and a uniform pressure of steam4 ,he allows no unusual noise about his engine to escape his notice he has taught his ear to be his guide4 ,when a job is about finished you will see him cleaning his ash pan1 getting his tools together1 a good fire in fire box1 in fact all ready to go1 and he looses no time after the belt is thrown off4 ,he hooks up to his load quietly1 and is the first man ready to go4 99,q4 ,when the piston head is in the exact center of cylinder1 is the engine on the quarter8 99,a4 ,it is supposed to be1 but is not4 99,q4 ,why not8 ,a4 ,the angularity of the rod prevents it reaching the quarter4 99,q4 ,then when the engine is on the exact quarter what position does the piston head occupy8 ,a4 ,it is nearest the end next to crank4 ,q4 ,if this is the case1 which end of cylinder is supposed to be the stronger8 ,a4 ,the opposite end1 or end furtherest from crank4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,because this end gets the benefit of the most travel1 and as it makes it in the same time1 it must travel faster4 99,q4 ,at what part of the cylinder does the piston head reach the greatest speed8 ,a4 ,at and near the center4 99,q4 ,why8 ,figure this out for yourself4 99,note4 ,the above few questions are given for the purpose of getting you to notice the little peculiarities of the crank engine1 and are not to be taken into consideration in the operation of the same4 ,q4 ,if you were on the road and should discover that you had low water1 what would you do8 ,a4 ,i would drop my load and hunt a high place for the front end of my engine1 and would do it quickly to4 ,q4 ,if by some accident the front end of your engine should drop down allowing the water to expose the crown sheet1 what would you do8 ,a4 ,if ,i had a heavy and hot fire1 would shovel dirt into the fire and smother it out4 ,q4 ,why would you prefer this to drawing the fire8 ,a4 ,because it would reduce the heat at once1 instead of increasing it for a few minutes while drawing out the hot bed of coals1 which is a very unpleasant job4 ,q4 ,would you ever throw water in the fire box8 ,a4 ,no4 ,it might crack the side sheets1 and would most certainly start the flues4 ,q4 ,you say1 in finding low water while on the road1 you would run your engine with the front end on high ground4 ,why would you do this8 ,a4 ,in order that the water would raise over the crown sheet1 and thus make it safe to pump up the water4 ,q4 ,while your engine was in this shape would you not expose the front end of flues'8 ,a4 ,yes1 but as the engine would not be working this would do no damage4 ,q4 ,if you were running in a hilly country how would you manage the boiler as regards water8 ,a4 ,would carry as high as the engine would allow1 without priming4 ,q4 ,suppose you had a heavy load or about all you could handle1 and should approach a long steep hill1 what condition should the water and fire be to give you the most advantage8 ,a4 ,a moderately low gauge of water and a very hot fire4 ,q4 ,why a moderately low gauge of water8 ,a4 ,because the engine would not be so liable to draw the water or prime in making the hard pull4 ,q4 ,why a very hot fire8 ,a4 ,so ,i could start the pumps full without impairing or cutting the pressure4 ,q4 ,when would you start your pump8 ,a4 ,as soon as fairly started up the hill4 ,q4 ,why8 ,a4 ,as most hills have two sides1 ,i would start them full in order to have a safe gauge to go down1 without stoping to pump up4 ,q4 ,what would a careful engineer do before starting to pull a load over a steep hill8 ,a4 ,he would examine his clutch1 or gear pin4 ,q4 ,how would you proceed to figure the road speed of traction4 ,a4 ,would first determine the circumference of driver1 then ascertain how many revolutions the engine made to one of the drivers4 ,multiply the number of revolutions the engine makes per minute by #fj1 this will give the number of revolutions of engine per hour4 ,divide this by the number of revolutions the engine makes to the drivers once1 and this will give you the number of revolutions the drivers will make in one hour1 and multiplying this by the circumference of driver in feet1 and it will tell you how many feet your engine is traveling per hour1 and this divided by #ebhj1 the number of feet in a mile1 would tell you just what speed your engine would make on the road4 ,,things ,,handy ,,for ,,the ,,engineer ,the first edition of this work brought me a great many letters asking where certain articles could be procured1 what ,i would recommend1 etc4 ,these questions required attention and as the writers had bought and paid for their book it was due them that they get the benefit of my experience1 as nothing is so discouraging to the young engineer as to be continually annoyed by unreliable and inferior fittings used more or less on all engines4 ,i have gone over my letter file and every article asked for will be taken up in the order1 showing the relative importance of each article in the minds of engineers4 ,for instance1 more letters reached me asking for a good brand of oil than any other one article4 ,then comes injectors1 lubricators have third place1 and so on down the list4 ,now without any intention of advertising anybody's goods ,i will give you the benefit of my years of experience and will be very careful not to mention or recommend anything which is not strictly first class1 at least so in my opinion1 and as good as can be had in its class1 yet in saying that these articles are good does not say that others are not equally as good4 ,i am simply anticipating the numerous letters ,i otherwise would receive and am answering them in a lump bunch4 ,if you have no occasion to procure any of these articles1 the naming of them will do no harm1 but should you want one or more you will make no mistake in any one of them4 ,,oil ,as ,i have stated1 more engineers asked for a good brand of oil than for any other one article and ,i will answer this with less satisfaction to myself than any other for this reason3 ,you may know what you want1 but you do not always get what you call for4 ,oil is one of those things that cannot be branded1 the barrel can1 but then it can be filled with the cheapest stuff on the market4 ,if you can get ,capital ,cylinder ,oil your valve will give you no trouble4 ,if you call for this particular brand and it does not give you satisfaction don't blame me or the oil1 go after the dealer2 he did not give you what you called for4 ,the same can be said of ,renown ,engine ,oil4 ,if you can always have this oil you will have no fault to find with its wearing qualities1 and it will not gum on your engine1 but as ,i have said1 you may call for it and get something else4 ,if your valve or cylinder is giving you any trouble and you have not perfect confidence in the dealer from whom you usually get your cylinder oil send direct to ,the ,standard ,oil ,company for some ,capital ,cylinder ,oil and you will get an oil that will go through your cylinder and come out the exhaust and still have some staying qualities to it4 ,the trouble with so much of the so called cylinder oil is that it is so light that the moment it strikes the extreme heat in the steam chest it vaporizes and goes through the cylinder in the form of vapor and the valve and cylinder are getting no oil1 although you are going through all the necessary means to oil them4 ,it is somewhat difficult to get a young engineer to understand why the cylinder requires one grade of oil and the engine another4 ,this is only necessary as a matter of economy1 cylinder or valve oil will do very well on the engine1 but engine oil will not do for the cylinder4 ,and as a less expensive oil will do for the engine we therefore use two grades of oil4 ,engine oil however should be but little lower in quality than the cylinder oil1 owing to the proximity of the bearings to the boiler1 they are at all times more or less heated1 and require a much heavier oil than a journal subject only to the heat of its own friction4 ,the ,renown ,engine ,oil has the peculiarity of body or lasting qualities combined with the fact that it does not gum on the hot iron and allows the engine to be wiped clean4 ,,injectors ,the next in the list of inquiries was for a reliable injector4 ,i was not surprised at this for up to a few years ago there were a great many engines running throughout the country with only the independent or cross-head pump1 and engineers wishing to adopt the injector naturally want the best1 while others had injectors more or less unsatisfactory4 ,in replying to these letters ,i recommend one of three or four different makes 7all of which ,i had found satisfactory7 with a request that the party asking for same should write to me if the injector proved unsatisfactory in any way4 ,of all the letters received1 ,i never got one stating any objection to either the ,penberthy or the ,metropolitan4 ,this fact has led me to think that probably my reputation as a judge of a good article was safer by sticking to the two named1 which ,i shall do until ,i know there is something better4 ,this does not mean that there are not other good injectors1 but ,i am telling you what ,i know to be good1 and not what may be good4 ,the fact that ,i never received a single complaint from either of them was evidence to me that the makers of these two injectors are very careful not to allow any slighting of the work4 ,they therefore get out no defective injectors4 ,the ,penberthy is made by ,the ,penberthy ,injector ,co41 of ,detroit1 ,mich41 and the ,metropolitan by ,the ,hayden ,derby ,mfg4 ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,sight ,,feed ,,lubricator ,these come next in the long list of inquiries and wishing to satisfy myself as to the relative superiority of various cylinder ,lubricators1 ,i resorted to the same method as persued in regard to injectors4 ,this method is very satisfactory to me from the fact that it gives us the actual experience of a class of engineers who have all conditions with which to contend1 and especially the unfavorable conditions4 ,i have possibly written more letters in answer to such questions as3 ,why my ,lubricator does this or that2 and why it don't do so and so8 than of any other one part of an engine1 7as a ,sight ,feed ,lubricator might in this day be considered a part of an engine47 ,of all the queries and objections made of the many ,lubricators1 there are two showing the least trouble to the operator4 ,there are the ,wm4 ,powell ,sight ,feed ,lubricator 7class ,a7 especially adapted to traction and road engines owing to the sight-glass being of large diameter1 which prevents the drop touching the side of glass1 while the engine is making steep grades and rough uneven roads1 made by ,the ,wm4 ,powell ,co41 ,cincinnati1 ,o41 and for sale by any good jobbing house1 and the ,detroit ,lubricator made by the ,detroit ,lubricator ,co41 of ,detroit1 ,mich4 ,i have never received a legitimate objection to either of these two ,lubricators1 but ,i received the same query concerning both1 and this objection1 if it may be called such1 is so clearly no fault of the construction or principle of the ,lubricator that ,i have concluded that they are among if not actually the best sight feed ,lubricator on the market to-day4 ,the query referred to was3 ,why does my glass fill with oil8 ,now the answer to this is so simple and so clearly no fault of the ,lubricator that ,i am entirely satisfied that by recommending either of these ,lubricators you will get value received2 and here is a good place to answer the above query4 ,if you have run a threshing engine a season or part of a season you have learned that it is much easier to get a poor grade of oil than a good one1 yet your ,lubricator will do this at times even with best of oil1 and the reason is due to the condition of the feed nozzle at the bottom of the feed glass4 ,the surface around the needle point in the nozzle becomes coated or rough from sediment from the oil4 ,this coating allows the drop to adhere to it until it becomes too large to pass up through the glass without striking the sides and the glass becomes blurred and has the appearance of being full of oil1 so in a measure to obviate this ,powell's ,lubricators are fitted with #c_/d glasses-being of large internal diameter4 ,the permanent remedy however is to take out the glass and clean the nozzle with waste or a rag1 rubbing the points smooth and clean4 ,the drop will then release itself at a moderate size and pass up through the glass without any danger of striking the sides4 ,however1 if the ,lubricator is on crooked it may do this same thing4 ,the remedy is very simple-straighten it up4 ,while talking of the various appliances for oiling your engine you will pardon me if ,i say that ,i think every traction engine ought to be supplied with an oil pump as you will find it very convenient for a traction engine especially on the road4 ,for instance1 should the engine prime to any great extent your cylinder will require more oil for a few minutes than your sight feed will supply1 and here is where1 your little pump will help you out4 ,either the ,detroit or ,powell people make as good an article of this kind as you can find anywhere1 and can furnish you either the glass or metal body4 ,hard ,grease and a good ,cup come next4 ,in my trips over various parts of the country ,i visit a great many engineers and find a great part of them using hard grease and ,i also find the quality varying all the way from the very best down to the cheapest grade of axle grease4 ,the ,badger ,oil ,i think is the best that can be procured for this purpose1 and while ,i do not know just who makes it1 you will probably have but little trouble in finding it1 and if you are looking for a first class automatic cup for your wrist pin or crank box get the ,wm4 ,powell ,cup from any jobbing supply house4 ,these people also make a very neat little attachment for their ,class ,a ,lubricator which is a decided convenience for the engineer1 and is called a ,filler4 ,it consists of a second reservoir or cup1 of about the same capacity of the reservoir of ,lubricator1 thus doubling the capacity4 ,it is attached at the filling plug1 and is supplied with a fine strainer1 which catches all dirt1 and grit1 allowing only clear oil to enter the lubricator1 and by properly manipulating the little shut-off valve the strainer can be removed and cleaned and the cup refilled without disturbing the working of the ,lubricator4 ,this little attachment will soon be in general use4 ,,boiler ,,feeders ,injectors have a dangerous rival in the ,moore ,steam ,pump or boiler feeder for traction engines1 and the reason this little pump is not in more general use is the fact that among the oldest methods for feeding a boiler is the independent steam pump and they were always unsatisfactory from the fact that they were a steam engine within themselves1 having a crank or disc1 flywheel1 eccentric1 eccentric yoke1 valve1 valve stem1 crosshead1 slides1 and all the reciprocating parts of a complete engine4 ,being necessarily very small1 these parts of course are very frail and delicate1 were easily broken or damaged by the rough usage to which they were subjected while bumping around over rough roads on a traction engine4 ,the ,moore ,pump1 manufactured by ,the ,union ,steam ,pump ,company1 of ,battle ,creek1 ,mich41 is a complete departure from the old steam engine pump1 and if you take any interest in any of the novel ways in which steam can be utilized send to them for a circular and sectional cuts and you can spend several hours very profitably in determining just how the direct pressure from the boiler can be made to drive the piston head the full stroke of cylinder1 open exhaust port1 shift the valve open steam port and drive the piston back again and repeat the operation as long as the boiler pressure is allowed to reach the pump and yet have no connection whatever with any of the reciprocating parts of the pump1 and at the same time lift and force water into the boiler in any quantity desired4 ,another novel feature in this little boiler feeder is that after the steam has acted on the cylinder it can be exhausted directly into the feed water1 thus utilizing all its heat to warm the water before entering the boiler4 ,now it required a certain number of heat units to produce this steam which after doing its work gives back all its heat again to the feed water and it would be a very interesting problem for some of the young engineers1 as well as the old ones1 to determine just what loss if any is sustained in this manner of supplying a boiler4 ,if you are thinking of trying an independent pump1 don't be afraid of this one4 ,i take particular pride in recommending anything that ,i have tried myself1 and know to be as recommended4 ,and a boiler feeder of this kind has all the advantage of the injector1 as it will supply the boiler without running the engine1 and it has the advantage over the injector1 in not being so delicate1 and will work water that can not be handled by the best of injectors4 ,we have very frequently had this question put to us3 ,ought ,i to grease my gearing8 ,if ,i said yes1 ,i had an argument on my hands at once4 ,if ,i said no1 some one would disagree just as quickly1 and how shall ,i answer it to the satisfaction of most engineers of a traction engine8 ,i always say what ,i have to say and stay by it until ,i am convinced of the error4 ,now some of you will smile when ,i say that the only thing for gear where there is dust1 is ,mica ,axle ,grease4 ,and you smile because you don't know what it is made of1 but think it some common grease named for some old saint1 but that is not the case4 ,if these people who make this lubricant would give it another name1 and get it introduced among engineers1 nothing else would be used4 ,you have seen it advertised for years as an axle grease and think that is all it is good for2 and there is where you make a mistake4 ,it is made of a combination of solid lubricant and ground or pulverized mica1 that is where it gets its name1 and nothing can equal mica as a lubricant if you could apply it to your gear2 and to do this it has been combined with a heavy grease4 ,this in being applied to the gear retains the small particles of mica1 which soon imbed themselves in every little abrasion or rough place in the gearing1 and the surface quickly becomes hard and smooth throughout the entire face of the engaging gear1 and your gear will run quiet1 and if your gearing is not out of line will stop cutting if applied in time4 ,it will run dry and dust will not collect on the surface of your cogs1 and after a coating is once formed it should never be disturbed by scraping the face of the gear1 and a very little added from time to time will keep your gear in fine shape4 ,its name is against it and if the makers would take a tumble to themselves and call it ,mica ,oil or some catchy name and get it introduced among the users of tight gearing1 they would sell just as much axle grease and all the grease for gearings4 ,,force ,,feed ,,oiler ,force feed oiler come next on the list4 ,this is something not generally understood by engineers of traction and farm engines1 and accounts for it being so far down the list4 ,but we think it will come into general use within a few years1 as an oiler of this kind forces the oil instead of depending on gravity4 ,the ,acorn ,brass ,works of ,chicago make a very unique and successful little oiler which forces a small portion of oil in a spray into the valve and cylinder1 and repeats the operation at each stroke of the engine1 and is so arranged that it stops automatically as soon as the oil is out of the reservoir2 and at once calls the attention of the engineer to the fact1 and it can be regulated to throw any quantity of oil desired4 ,is made for any size or make of engine4 ,,speeder ,one of the little things1 that every engineer ought to have is a ,motion counter or speeder4 ,of course1 you can count the revolutions of your engine1 but you frequently want to know the speed of the driven pulley1 cylinder for instance3 ,when you know the exact size of engine pulley and your cylinder pulley1 and the exact speed of your engine1 and there was no such thing as the slipping of drive belt1 you could figure the speed of your cylinder1 but by knowing this and then applying the speeder1 you can determine the loss by comparing the figured speed with the actual speed shown by the speeder4 ,if you have a good speeder you can make good use of it every day you run machinery4 ,if you want one you want the best and there is nothing better than the one made by ,the ,tabor ,manufacturing ,co41 of ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,we use no other4 ,you will see their advertisement in the ,american ,thresherman4 ,,spark ,,arrester ,but one article in the entire list did ,i find to be sectional1 and that was for a spark arrester4 ,these inquiries were all without exception from the wooded country1 that is1 from a section where it is cheaper to burn wood than coal4 ,there is nothing strange that parties running engines in these sections should ask for a spark arrester1 as builders of this class of engines usually supply their engines with a smoke stack1 with little or no reference to safety from fire4 ,this being recognized by some genius in one of our wooded states who has profited by it and has produced a smoke stack which is also a spark arrester4 ,this stack is a success in every sense of the word1 and is made for any and all styles of farm and saw mill engines4 ,it is made by the ,south ,bend ,spark ,arrester ,co41 of ,south ,bend1 ,indiana1 and if you are running an engine and firing with wood or straw1 don't run too much risk for the engineer usually comes in for a big share of the blame if a fire is started from the engine4 ,and as the above company make a specialty of this particular article1 you will get something reliable if you are in a section where you need it4 ,,lifting ,,jack ,next comes enquiries for a good lifting ,jack4 ,this would indicate that the boys had been getting their engine in a hole1 but there are a great many times when a good ,jack comes handy1 and it will save its cost many times every season4 ,too many engineers forget that when he is fooling around that he is the only one losing time4 ,the facts are the entire crew are doing nothing1 besides the outfit is making no money unless running4 ,you want to equip yourself with any tool that will save time4 ,the ,barth ,mfg1 ,co41 of ,milwaukee1 make a ,jack especially adapted to this particular work1 and every engine should have a mascot in the shape of a lifting ,jack4 ,now before dropping the subject of handy things for an engineer1 ,i want to say to the engineer who takes pride in his work1 that if you would enjoy a touch of high life in engineering1 persuade your boss1 if you have one1 to get you a ,fuller ,tender made by the ,parson's ,band ,cutter and ,feeder ,co41 ,newton1 ,iowa1 and attach to your engine4 ,it may look a little expensive1 but a luxury usually costs something and by having one you will do away with a great deal of the rough and tumble part of an engineers life4 ,and if you want to keep yourself posted as to what is being done by other threshermen throughout the world1 read some good ,threshermen's ,home journal4 ,the ,american ,thresherman for instance is the warmest baby in the bunch4 ,and if anything new under the sun comes out you will find it in the pages of this bright and newsy journal4 ,keep to the front in your business4 ,your business is as much a business as any other profession1 and while it may not be quite as remunerative as a ,r4 ,r4 attorney1 or the president of a life insurance company it is just as honorable1 and a good engineer is appreciated by his employer just as much as a good man in any other business4 ,a good engineer can not only always have a job1 but he can select his work4 ,that is if there is any choice of engines in a neighborhood the best man gets it4 ,,something ,,about ,,pressure ,now before bringing this somewhat lengthy lecture to a close1 7for ,i consider it a mere lecture1 a talk with the boys7 ,i want to say something more about pressure4 ,you notice that ,i have not advocated a very high pressure2 ,i have not gone beyond #abe lbs4 and yet you know and ,i know that very much higher pressure is being carried wherever the traction engine is used1 and ,i want to say that a very high pressure is no gauge or guarantee of the intelligence of the engineer4 ,the less a reckless individual knows about steam the higher pressure he will carry4 ,a good engineer is never afraid of his engine without a good reason1 and then he refuses to run it4 ,he knows something of the enormous pressure in the boiler1 while the reckless fellow never thinks of any pressure beyond the ,i#jj or ,i#dj pounds that his gauge shows4 ,he says1 ',o6 ,that1' that aint much of a pressure1 that boiler is good for #bjj pounds4 ,it has never dawned on his mind 7if he has one7 that that ,i#dj pounds mean ,i#dj pounds on every square inch in that boiler shell1 and ,i#dj on each square inch of tube sheets4 ,not only this but every square inch in the shell is subjected to two times this pressure as the boiler has two sides or in other words1 each square inch has a corresponding opposite square inch1 and the seam of shell must sustain this pressure1 and as a single riveted boiler only affords #fb per cent of the strength of solid iron4 ,it is something that every engineer ought to consider4 ,he ought to be able to thoroughly appreciate this almost inconceivable pressure4 ,how many engineers are today running #ah and #bj horse power engines that realizes that a boiler of this diameter is not capable of sustaining the pressure he had been accustomed to carry in his little #bf or #cj inch boiler8 ,on page #aad ,you will get some idea of the difference in safe working pressure of boilers1 of different diameters4 ,on the other hand this is not intended to make you timid or afraid of your engine1 as there is nothing to be afraid of if you realize what you are handling1 and try to comprehend the fact that your steam gauge represents less than one #a-ajjj part of the power you have under your management4 ,you never had this put to you in this light before1 did you8 ,if you thoroughly appreciate this fact and will try to comprehend this power confined in your boiler by noting the pressure1 or power exerted by your cylinder through the small supply pipe1 you will soon be an engineer who will only carry a safe and economical pressure1 and if there comes a time when it is necessary to carry a higher pressure1 you will be an engineer who will set the pop back again1 when or as soon as this extra pressure is not necessary4 ,if ,i can get you to comprehend this power proposition no student of ,rough and ,tumble ,engineering will ever blow up a boiler4 ,when ,i started out to talk engine to you ,i stated plainly that this book would not be filled up with scientific theories1 that while they were very nice they would do no good in this work4 ,now ,i am aware that ,i could have made a book four times as large as this and if ,i had1 it would not be as valuable to the beginner as it is now4 ,from the fact that there is not a problem or a question contained in it that any one who has a common school education can not solve or answer without referring to any textbooks ,the very best engineer in the country need not know any more than he will find in these pages4 ,yet ,i don't advise you to stop here1 go to the top if you have the time and opportunity4 ,should ,i have taken up each step theoretically and given forms1 tables1 rules and demonstrations1 the young engineer would have become discouraged and would never have read it through4 ,he would have become discouraged because he could not understand it4 ,now to illustrate what ,i mean1 we will go a little deeper and then still deeper1 and you will begin to appreciate the simple way of putting the things which you as a plain engineer are interested in4 ,for example on page #aad we talked about the safe working pressure of different sized boilers4 ,it was most likely natural for you to say ,how do ,i find the safe working pressure8 ,well1 to find the safe working pressure of a boiler it is first necessary to find the total pressure necessary to burst the boiler4 ,it requires about twice as much pressure to tear the ends out of a boiler as it does to burst the shell1 and as the weakest point is the basis for determining the safe pressure1 we will make use of the shell only4 ,we will take for example a steel boiler #cb inches in diameter and #f ft4 long1 #c_/h in4 thick1 tensile strength #fj1jjj lbs4 ,the total pressure required to burst this shell would be the area exposed times the pressure4 ,the thickness multiplied by the length then by #b 7as there are two sides7 then by the tensile strength equals the bursting pressure3 #c_/h x #gb ,x #b x #fj1jjj #c1bdj1jjj the total bursting pressure and the pressure per square inch required to burst the shell is found by dividing the total bursting pressure #c1bdj1jjj pounds by the diameter times the length #c1bdj1jjj _/ 7#cb x #gb7 #adjf lbs4 ,it would require #adjf lbs4 per square inch to burst this shell if it were solid1 that is if it had no seam1 a single seam affords #fb per cent of the strength of shell1 #adjf x 4#fb #hga lbs4 to burst the seam if single riveted2 add #bj per cent if double riveted4 ,to determine the safe working pressure divide the bursting pressure of the weakest place by the factor of safety4 ,the ,united ,states ,government use a factor of #f for single riveted and add #bj per cent for double riveted1 #hga _/ #f #ade lbs4 the safe working pressure of this particular boiler1 if single riveted and #ade #bj per cent#agd double riveted4 ,now suppose you take a boiler the same length and of the same material1 but #hj inches in diameter4 ,the bursting pressure would be #c1bdj1jjj _/ 7#hj x #gb7 #efj lbs41 and the safe working pressure would be #efj _/ #f #ic lbs4 ,you will see by this that the diameter has much to do with the safe working pressure1 also the diameter and different lengths makes a difference in working pressure4 ,now all of this is nice for you to know1 and it may start you on a higher course1 it will not make you handle your engine any better1 but it may convince you that there is something to learn4 ,suppose we give you a little touch of rules1 and formula in boiler making4 ,for instance you want to know the percent of strength of single riveted and double riveted as compared to solid iron4 ,some very simple rules1 or formula1 are applicable4 ,find the percent of strength to the solid iron in a single-riveted seam1 #a_/d inch plate1 #e_/h inch rivet1 pitched or spaced #b inch centers4 ,first reduce all to decimal form1 as it simplifies the calculation2 #a_/d4be and #e_/h inch rivets will require #aa_/af inch hole1 this hole is supposed to be filled by the rivet1 after driving1 consequently this diameter is used in the calculation1 #aa_/af inches4#fhge4 ,first find the percent of strength of the sheet4 ,p-,d ----- ,the formula is ,p percent4 ,p the pitch1 ,d the diameter of the rivet hole1 percent percent of strength of the solid iron4 #b -4#fhge -------- ,substituting values1 #b 4#ff4 ,now of course you understand all about that1 but it is ,greek to some people4 ,so you see ,i have no apologies to make for following out my plain comprehensive talk1 have not confused you1 or lead you to believe that it requires a great amount of study to become an engineer4 ,i mean a practical engineer1 not a mechanical engineer4 ,i just touch mechanical engineering to show you that that is something else4 ,if you are made of the proper stuff you can get enough out of this little book to make you as good an engineer as ever pulled a throttle on a traction engine4 ,but this is no novel4 ,go back and read it again1 and ever time you read it you will find something you had not noticed before4 ,,index ----- ,,part ,,first ,,page ,tinkering ,engineers 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #e ,,part ,,second ,water ,supply 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ca ,,part ,,third ,what a ,good ,injector ,ought to ,do 4 4 4 #de ,the ,blower 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #di ,a ,good ,fireman 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ea ,wood 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ef ,why ,grates ,burn ,out 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eg ,,part ,,four ,scale 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fe ,clean ,flues 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fg ,,part ,,five ,steam ,gauge 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gb ,how to ,test a ,steam ,gauge 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gd ,fusible ,plug 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gf ,leaky ,flues 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gi ,,part ,,six ,knock in ,engine 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ij ,lead 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ib ,setting a ,valve 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #id ,how to ,find the ,dead ,center 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ie ,lubricating ,oil 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ajc ,a ,hot ,box 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aji ,,part ,,seven ,a ,traction ,engine on the ,road 4 4 4 4 4 #aaa ,sand 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #abb ,friction ,clutch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #abd ,something ,about ,sight-,feed ,lubricators #acb ,two ,ways of ,reading 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #acg ,some ,things to ,know 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aci ,things ,handy for an ,engineer 4 4 4 4 4 #aei ,something ,about ,pressure 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ahd