,,:at ,,dress ,,makes ,,( ,,u    ,by    
,,doro?y ,,quigley      ,illu/rations by
  ,,annie ,,blakeslee      #ahig        
,i am indebt$ to ! editors ( ! ,new     
,york ,sun &      ,new ,york ,j\rnal =  
k9dly all[+ me to include 9      ?is    
book articles :i* ,i contribut$ to _!   
respective pap]s4          ,,preface4   
,did y ev] obs]ve1 de> comrade1 :at an  
elem5t ( c>icature lurks  9 clo!s8 ,a   
%ort1 r\nd coat on a /\t man seems to   
exagg]ate 8  proportions to su* a       
ridicul\s degree t ! pr(ile ( 8 manly   
=m sugge/s ! robu/ bulge ( an old jug4  
,a bonnet decorat$ ) loops ( ribbon &   
sprays ( grass1 or fl[]s  t fall aslant1
 may give a laughably tipsy air to !    
long face ( a  sa9tly matron ( pi\s &   
cons]vative habits4    ,a peak$ hat &   
tight-fitt+1 long-skirt$ coat may s     
magnify !  meagre physical end[m5ts ( a 
tall1 sl5d] girl t %e atta9s !  lank &  
longi% look ( a bottle ( hock4    ,oh6 !
 mock+ diabl]y 9 /r+s1 wisps ( untidy   
hair1 que]  trimm+s1 & limp hats4 ,alas6

 t !y %\ld h su* impi% p[]  to detract f
 ! dignity ( woman & r5d] man absurd4   
,because ( 8 comical attire1 an em95t   
,ox=d div9e1 ^: life &  works comm&$    
rev]5ce1 0 once mi/ak5 = an anci5t ,new 
,engl&  sp9/] 9 emancipat$ g>m5ts4 ,8   
smoo?ly %av5 face1 fram$ 9  cr9kly1 gray
 locks1 0 surm\nt$ by a s(t1 little1    
r\nd hat1 f  ! up-turn$ brim ( :i*      
dangl$ a brok5 /r+4 ,8 long frock-coat  
rea*$ to j above 8 loosely fitt+ gait]s4
    ,! flutt]+ /r+1 ^: only reason = be+
 at all 0 to keep  ! que] head-ge> f    
sail+ away on ! w9d1 gave a t\* ( !     
ludicr\s to ! boyi% hat :i*1 9 its turn1
 l5t m droll]y ?an  dignity to !        
sanctifi$ face ( ! old !ologian4 ,:o has
 n se5  j su*1 or a simil> sight1 &     
laugh$8 ,:o has n1 ) !  g5]osity common 
to u all1 conclud$ ^! 7 ! mi/akes &     
self-delusions ( neighbors1 relatives1 &
 fri5ds1 9 :i* we _h no  %>e8    ,i     
und]/& h[ x is ) y4 ,i am "o ( y4 ,be=e 
,i /udi$ our  common errors ,i smil$ at 
my neighbor's lack ( ta/e1 recon/ruct$  

my  fri5ds1 & ca/ contemptu\s criticism 
^u my enemies4 ,"o day ,i took  a look  
at myself1 & realiz$ t ,i1 too1 am      
laughable on unsuspect$  occasions4     
,! humbl+ k ( see+ myself objectively1  
gave me c\rage to  speak to ! he>t ( y  
c]ta9 home tru?s :i* conc]n u all1 9    
homely language :i* we c all und]/&4    
,t y may disc]n ! comicality & wagg]y 9 
ill-*os5 clo!s1 ,i  h endeavor$ to h9t  
to y 9 ^! talks "s ( ! ways gew-gaws  & 
g>m5ts make game ( u4    ,may y discov] 
t y\r dress is n mak+ y a laughable     
object2  b if1 by any *ance1 y %\ld note
 t y\r clo!s are  c>icatur+ y1 take     
he>t4 ,enjoy ! joke ) ! mir? t heals  & 
he>t5s1 & spe$ily correct y\r mi/akes4  
,! l9es ( y\r =m1 ! modell+ ( y\r face1 
are !y n wor?y  ( y\r disc]n+ ?\ght8    
,truly6 ,:atev] detracts f !m detracts  
f sculpture1 pa9t+1 & poetry1 & ! _w is 
! los]4    ,a ^w to ! ?9k+ is suffici5t4
    ,d4,q4          ,,cont5ts4          
,,preface      ,,*apt] ,i4    ,,h[      
,,wom5 ,,( ,,c]ta9 ,,types ,,%\ld       

,,dress ,,_! ,,hair        ,/yle =      
,w$ge-,%ap$ ,faces      ,/yle = ,heavy  
,jaws      ,/yle = ,eyes ,set ,too ,high
      ,/yle = ,eyes ,set ,too ,l[       
,/yle = ,long ,faces ) ,long ,noses     
,= ,faces ) ,protrud+ ,noses            
,,*apt] ,,ii4    ,,h9ts ,,= ,,!         
,,selection ,,( ,,becom+ ,,&            
,,appropriate ,,/yles ,,9 ,,head-,,ge>  
,! ,magic ( ! ,bonnet      ,/yle = ,wom5
 ) ,broad ,face & ,heavy ,*9      ,/yle 
= ,wom5 ) ,tap]+ ,*9      ,hat = !      
,*ubby ,woman      ,= ,wom5 ,:o ,h ,%>p 
& ,prom95t ,pr(iles      ,= ! ,woman )  
an ,angul> ,face      ,wom5 ,:o %\ld ,n 
,we> ,horns      ,,*apt] ,,iii4         
,,l9es ,,t ,,%\ld ,,be ,,recogniz$ ,,&  
,,consid]$ ,,9 ,,mak+ ,,co/umes         
,/yle = ,tall ,sl5d] ,wom5      ,! ,coat
 ! ,%ort ,/\t ,wom5 %\ld ,we>      ,!   
,cloak or ,cape = a ,tall ,wom5         
,,*apt] ,,iv4    ,,h[ ,,plump ,,& ,,?9  
,,backs ,,%\ld ,,be ,,clo!d      ,,*apt]
 ,v4    ,,corsages ,,appropriate ,,=    
,,wom5 ,,) ,,unbeautifully ,,modell$    

,,?roats ,,&  ,,%\ld]s      ,,*apt]     
,,vi4    ,,h9ts ,,on ,,dress ,,=        
,,eld]ly ,,wom5      ,,*apt] ,,vii4     
,,h[ ,,m5 ,,c>icature ,,!mselves ,,)    
,,_! ,,clo!s          ,,:at ,,dress     
,,makes ,,( ,,u4           99       99  
99       99       99    ,,*apt] ,i4     
,,h[ ,,wom5 ,,( ,,c]ta9 ,,types ,,%\ld  
,,dress ,,_! ,,hair4    ,! pleas+1 b    
some:at audaci\s /atem5t ( ! clev] writ]
 :o  ass]t$1 ,9 ! m]ciful s*eme (       
nature1 !re are no pla9 wom51  is n z   
disputable z x may seem4 ,hone/ husb&s1 
to be sure1 greet  ! in=mation ) diss5t+
 guffaws2 gay deceiv]s reflect ^u its   
tru? by gallantly ass5t+ to x1 ) a mock+
 little tw9kle 9  _! eyes2 & pretty     
wom51 ^u he>+ x1 rem>k s5t5ti\sly  ,bl9d
 m5 & fools may ?9k s4 ,disc]n+ /ud5ts (
 womank9d1  h[ev]1 "k t if e woman w\ld 
make ! be/ ( h]  possibilities1         
physically1 m5tally1 & spiritually1 x   
w\ld be  delightfully probable t 9 !    
m]ciful s*eme ( nature !re ne$  be no   
pla9 wom54    ,h we n ,"l ,*e/]field's  

^w = x1 t ,no woman is ugly :5  %e is   
dress$8    ,x is no unwor?y /udy to le>n
 to make ! be/ (1 & to d ju/ice  to1    
"o's self4 ,apropos ( ?is1 to beg9--:]e 
all fasc9at+  subjects %\ld beg9--at !  
head1 x behooves e woman :o wi%es  to   
appe> at h] be/1 to /udy ! modell+ ( h] 
face t %e may  und]/& bo? its defective 
& p]fect l9es4 ,by a prop] arrangem5t  (
 h] hair a woman c d mu* to obscure or  
s(t5 h] bad features1  & height5 ! *>m (
 h] good ones4    ,romanc]s h writt51 & 
poets h sung1 ( ! bewit*m5t 9  nut-br[n 
locks1 gold5 tresses1 & jetty curls4 ,e 
woman1 if s  incl9$1 may prove = h]self 
! transfigur+ effect 9 a becom+         
coiffure4 ,9 fact1 ! beauty ( a woman's 
face & h] app>5t age are  greatly       
affect$ by ! way %e we>s h] hair4    ,a 
mo/ important detail t too few consid]1 
is1 ! prop] direction  9 :i* to comb !  
hair4 ,wom5 lit]ally toss _! tresses    
toge!r  )\t any att5tion to ! natural   
incl9ation ( ! individual  /r&s or      
fibres4 ,!y comb _! hair aga9/ ! gra94  

,^? :o  d s nev] h beautifully & smoo?ly
 arrang$ coiffures4 ,ea*  little hirsute
 filam5t has a rebelli\s t5d5cy to g 9 !
 direction  nature int5d$ x %\ld1 &     
refuses to /ay :]e x is put1 giv+  !    
head 9 consequ5ce1 an unkempt & :at is  
t]m$ an unladylike  appe>ance4 ,!       
criss-cross effect result+ f comb+ &    
arrang+  ! hair contr>y to ! gra9 is    
conspicu\sly app>5t 9 !  coiffure ( no  
less a p]sonage ?an ,eleanora ,duse1 :o1
 z may be se5  f ! picture1 pays little 
att5tion to ! natural t5d5cy ( !  d>k   
tresses t cov] h] %apely head4 ,! bang  
has ! di%evell$  appe>ance ( a pile (   
jack-/raws4 ,! side-locks in/ead ( be+  
comb$ or bru%$ to foll[ ! cont\r ( !    
head1 fall loosely &  fly 9 opposite    
directions4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #b   
,! diff]5ce 9 appe>ance betwe5 ! wom5 ( 
! sm>t sets 9  ,am]ica & ^? ( less      
fa%ionable circles is due1 9 a great    
measure1 to ! beautifully dress$        
coiffures ( ! =m]4 ,a  hair-dress]      
arranges1 at lea/ once a week1 ! hair ( 

! modi%  woman if h] maid does n und]/& 
! art ( hair-dress+4 ,_m  wom5 ( !      
weal?y _w h _! maids taught by a ,fr5*  
coiffeur4    ,a wise woman w adopt a    
prevail+ mode ) discretion1 =1 :at may  
be ess5tially appropriate = "o1 may be  
fatally inappropriate =  ano!r4 ,9      
adju/+ h] cr[n ( glory a woman mu/      
consid] !  proportions ( h] face4 ,%e   
%\ld be able to disc]n :e!r h] eyes  are
 too ne> ! top ( h] head or1 too f>     
bel[2 :e!r %e has a  squ>e or w$ge-%ap$ 
*92 a lean1 long face1 or a r\nd &      
b\ntifully curv$ "o4 ,%e %\ld be al]t to
 h] defects & /udy  nev] to emphasize   
nor exagg]ate !m4    ,:y1 ?r\gh /upidity
 or c>elessness1 make a c>toon (        
y\rself1  :5 ) a prop] appreciation (   
y\r possibilities y c be a  pleas+      
picture8 ,x is j z glori\s to be a f9e  
picture or a poem  z x is to pa9t ! "o1 
or write ! o!r4 ,inde$1 a woman :o      
h>moni\sly develops ! be/ )9 h] has !   
*>m ( an exquisite  poem & inspires     
poets to s+2 & if by ! grace & beauty ( 

h]  dress %e enhances h] natural        
end[m5ts & makes h]self a pleas+        
picture1 ! _w becomes h] debtor4    ,9 !
 important matt] ( becom+ly arrang+ !   
hair1 ! foll[+  sket*es & sugge/ions may
 h9t to bright1 ?9k+1 wom5 :at  /yles to
 *oose or avoid4      ,= ,w$ge-,%ap$    
,faces4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #c       
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #d    ,!            
lea/-disc]n+ eye c see t ! w$ge-,%ap$   
face ,no4 #c is  c>icatur$1 & its       
triangul> proportions made m evid5t1 by 
all[+ ! hair to ext5d 9 curls or a      
fluffy bang on ei!r side (  ! head4     
,wom5 ) delicately modell$ faces ) peak$
 *9s %\ld  avoid ^! broad effects above 
_! br[s4    ,x is obvi\s 9 ! sket* ,no4 
#d1 t ! w$ge-%ap$ face is  p]ceptibly   
improv$ by we>+ ! hair 9 s(t waves1 or  
curls closely  conf9$ to ! head & by    
arrang+ a coil or high puff j above &  9
 front ( ! cr[n4 ,?is arrangem5t gives a
 desirable oval effect to  ! face1 ! %>p
 prom95ce ( ! *9 be+ c\nt]act$ by !     
surm\nt+ puffs4      ,= ,heavy ,jaws4   

,x may readily be se5 t a woman ) !     
squ>e1 heavy-jaw$ face  pictur$ by ,no4 
#e1 %\ld n adopt a /raight1 or ne>ly    
/raight1  bang1 nor we> h] hair l[ on h]
 =ehead1 nor adju/ ! great]  portion (  
h] hair s t ! coil _c be se5 above !    
cr[n (  h] head4 ,! l[ bang br+s into   
/rik+ relief all ! h>d l9es (  h] face &
 gives ! impression t %e has pugili/ic  
t5d5cies4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #e     
,to insure arti/ic balance to h]        
c\nt5ance1 & br+ out ! womanly  /r5g? & 
vital p[] ( h] face1 h] hair %\ld be    
arrang$ 9  coils1 puffs1 or braids t w  
give bread? to ! top ( h] head z  %[n by
 ,no4 #f4 ,a fluffy1 s(tly curl$ bang   
adds grace to ! =ehead  & gives x !     
necess>y broadness x ne$s to less5 &    
light5 !  heav9ess ( ! l[] "p ( ! face4 
,a b[ ( ribbon1 or an aigrette  (       
fea!rs1 w add effectively ! cr[n (      
braids or puffs :i* a  wise woman ) a   
squ>e jaw w surm\nt h] br[ if %e wi%es  
to  subdue ! too aggressive1 fight+     
qualities ( h] /rong *94                

,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #f      ,= ,%ort    
,faces4    ,! si/]hood :o h %ort1 *ubby 
faces %\ld1 9 a measure1  obs]ve c]ta9  
rules t apply 9 a small degree to ^? :o 
h  heavy *9s4    ,z may be obs]v$ ev5 ) 
a casual glance1 ! little %ort-fac$     
woman depict$ by ,no4 #g1 causes h] r\nd
 facial disk to appe> mu*  %ort] ?an x  
really is by all[+ h] hair to come s f> 
d[n on  h] =ehead4 ,%e fur!r detracts f 
h] facial *>ms by we>+  wat]-waves4     
,wat]-waves are sc>cely to be comm5d$ = 
any type (  face1 & !y are especially   
unbecom+ to ! woman :o is  conspicu\sly 
roly-poly4 ,! r\nd eyes1 knobby nose1 & 
r\nd m\?  are br\ght into unattractive  
di/9ctness by be+ re-duplicat$ 9 !      
circul> effects ( ! hair4 ,?is mode (   
dress+ ! hair makes a  %ort face look   
common & insignificant4    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #g    ,d y n see t ?is type is   
imm5sely improv$ by ! arrangem5t  ( !   
coiffure 9 ,no4 #h8 ,by comb+ h] hair (f
 h] =ehead h] face  acquires a look (   
al]tness & intellig5ce1 besides be+     

app>5tly  l5g!n$4 ,%e c we> h] bang 9   
s(t crimps bru%$ back f h]  br[1 if ?is 
pla9 arrangem5t is too sev]e4           
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #h      ,= ,eyes    
,set ,too ,high4    ,a l[ =ehead is     
suppos$ to be a sign ( beauty 9 woman4  
,! br[s (  ! fam\s ,v5uses are l[ &     
broad4 ,p]haps = ?is reason _m wom5  we>
 _! hair arrang$ l[ ^u _! =eheads4 ,:e!r
 ! hair  %\ld be worn l[ on ! br[ dep5ds
 *iefly on two ?+s1--!  sett+ ( ! eyes1 
& ! quality ( ! face4    ,illu/ration3  
,,no4 #h-a_/b    ,a good rule to obs]ve 
is ! arti/ic "o1 to ! effect t ! eyes  (
 a woman %\ld be 9 ! middle ( h] head4  
,t is1 if an  imag9>y l9e 7 drawn across
 ! top ( ! head & ano!r bel[  ! *91     
exactly midway betwe5 ! two ! eyes %\ld 
be set4    ,! ,japanese type ( woman    
%\ld c>efully obs]ve ! =ego+ h9t4       
,obs]ve ,no4 #h-a_/b4 ,nature has n be5 
arti/ic4 ,! eyes are too ne>  ! top ( ! 
head4 ,! defect is exagg]at$ & emphasiz$
 by !  we>+ ( ! hair l[ on ! =ehead4 ,9 
"s faces ( ?is type !  face is brutaliz$

 9 appe>ance by ?is arrangem5t4 ,!      
expression &  :ole quality ( ! c\nt5ance
 c be greatly improv$ by arrang+  ! hair
 z %[n by ,no4 #i1 :i* is ! s(t         
,pompad\r /yle4 ,!  ,du*ess (           
,m>lbor\gh1 =m]ly ,consuelo ,v&]bilt1   
frames h] nave1  w9some face1 :i* is ( !
 ,japanese type1 9 a /yle some:at l     
?is4 ,h] d>k hair =ms an aureole above  
h] br[1 & br+s into  relief ! da9ty1    
oval =m ( h] face4 ,ev5 simply bru%+ !  
hair  (f ! =ehead )\t crimp or roll w   
improve ! appe>ance (  ?is type ( face &
 give x a bett] arti/ic balance4        
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #i    ,illu/ration3 
,,no4 #aj      ,= ,eyes ,set ,too ,l[4  
,wom5 ^: eyes are set too f> d[n 9 _!   
faces %\ld adopt a mode  ( arrang+ _!   
hair exactly ! opposite ( ^? ^: eyes are
 set  too ne> ! top ( _! heads4    ,x is
 app>5t t ,no4 #aj exagg]ates ! di/ance 
( h] eyes f !  cr[n ( h] head1 & makes  
!m appe> to be set l[] ?an !y  really   
are by build+ h] hair high1 & by bru%+  
h] bang back s  sev]ely f h] br[4 ,a    

bald =ehead is r>ely becom+ to any      
woman4 ,a few /ray curls or s(t waves   
l5d grace to ev5 ! mo/  p]fect ( br[s4  
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #aa    ,by br++ !   
hair d[n ov] ! =ehead1 z sugge/$ 9 ,no4 
#aa1 a  woman ) ?is type ( face c easily
 improve h] appe>ance4 ,by ?is  graceful
 arrangem5t h] face loses ! *ildi% &    
sometimes /upid  expression t is peculi>
 to ! type1 z may be disc]n$ 9 ,no4 #aj4
  ,:5 ! hair is prop]ly arrang$ ?is     
elem5t ( *ildlik5ess l5ds a  c]ta9      
appeal+ sweetness n unattractive ev5 9 !
 faces (  matur$ matrons4 ,by dress+ !  
hair l[ s ! coil does n appe>  above !  
cr[n1 z 9 ,no4 #aa1 ! eyes are app>5tly 
prop]ly plac$4      ,= ,long ,faces )   
,long ,noses4    ,! woman :o we>s h]    
silk5 tresses arrang$ on ei!r side ( h] 
head1 drap$ l curta9s f a c5tral p>t+1  
is to be envi$ if  %e c d x & yet look  
"y & pretty4 ,%e is ! ,madonna type &   
seems to possess all ! attributes (     
g5tl5ess1 mode/y1 &  meekness1 & angelic
 sweetness t are suppos$ to *>act]ize ! 

di/9ctively fem99e woman4 ,?is is !     
ideal /yle ( coiffure mu*  beprais$ by  
man1 because1 accord+ to a bright mod]n 
,amazon1 x  makes a woman look s meek4  
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ab    ,! only type 
to :i* x is really becom+ is ! ,italian4
 ,! type  ) matte complexion1 s(t eyes1 
f9ely *isell$ nose1 &  delicately oval  
*91 look ideally sweet & fem99e ) ! hair
  arrang$  la ,madonna4    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #ac    ,long faces ( ! =m pictur$
 by ,no4 #ab exagg]ate ! longness &     
leanness ( _! faces by we>+ _! locks l  
loop$ curta9s4 ,a  long nose ) two long 
l9es on ei!r side ( ! *eek seems long]  
?an x is1 z ! obs]v] may disc]n ?ree    
l9es in/ead ( only !  nasal "o1 & !     
impression ( longness is emphasiz$4 ,n  
only is  ! l5g? ( ! c\nt5ance made m    
noticeable1 b ye>s & ye>s  are app>5tly 
add$ to ! actual age4    ,t ,no4 #ac1   
:i* %[s a p>t+ & s(t waves t d n come   
bel[  ! e>s1 is to be pref]r$ by a woman
 ^: features are ( ?is  "* ne$ h>dly be 
expla9$4 ,! improvem5t 9 looks is q     

obvi\s4    ,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #ad ,,& 
#ae    ,no4 #ad is an example ( a       
misguid$ woman ( ! pudgy type :o1 =  "s 
inexplicable reason1 arranges h] hair 9 
! ,madonna /yle4 ,x is  utt]ly unsuit$  
to h] face4 ,unless h] e>s are de=m$ ?is
 /yle (  hirsute lambrequ9s %\ld n be   
worn by a full1 r\nd-fac$ woman4  ,!    
arrangem5t sket*$ 9 ,no #ae adds        
effectively to h] appe>ance1  n only    
mak+ h] look y\ng]1 b less inane4       
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #af      ,= ,faces )
 ,protrud+ ,noses4    ,wom5 ) decid$ly  
protrud+1 or irregul>1 tip-tilt$ noses  
%\ld  be especially c>eful 9 arrang+ _! 
coiffures4    ,any woman :o arranges h] 
hair z 9 sket* ,no4 #af c>icatures h]   
facial defects by increas+ ! too        
protub]ant l9es ( h] nose4 ,!  di/ance f
 ! end ( h] nose & ! tip ( ! topmo/ knot
 (  hair is too long = ei!r beauty or   
intellig5ce4 ,! %ape ( h]  head acquires
 idiotic proportions1 & h] nose is plac$
 entirely out  ( draw+ & is obtrusively 
conspicu\s :5 se5 9 pr(ile4 ,?is  type (

 woman is g5]ally classifi$ among !     
inquisitive1 bright1 &  en]getic4 ,%e   
%\ld aim to modify ! unhappy angul>ity (
 h]  pr(ile z well z to repress h]      
gossipy t5d5cies4 ,! graduat$ coil  (   
hair & wav$ coiffure1 %[n by ,no4 #ag1  
are mo/ felicit\s 9  _! effect on ?is   
type ( face4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ag 
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ah    ,no4 #ah     
reveals an error 9 an opposite          
direction4 ,! snubb$-nose girl1  by fix+
 h] hair 9 a bun-l coil1 gives !        
impression t h]  coiffure is held by    
invisible /r+s by h] nose1 :i* gets a m 
elevat$ look ?an x o!rwise w\ld h1      
because ( ! bad angle at  :i* ! coil is 
plac$4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ai       
,no4 #ai1 :i* is a picturesque v>iation 
( ! popul> coif1 manife/ly  improves ?is
 type ( face1 & makes ! nose appe> less 
obtrusive4    ,a woman %\ld c>efully    
/udy ! cont\r ( h] head f e side2  !    
modell+ ( h] face2 ! l5g? & incl9ation (
 h] nose2 !  sett+ ( h] eyes2 & ! bread?
 & =m ( h] br[1 & adopt a  becom+       

coiffure t w give arti/ic balance to h] 
face1 & nev]  absolutely *ange ! /yle   
:atev] ! mode 9 hair-dress+ may be4  ,9 
,engl&1 ! c\rt hair-dress] ye>s ago     
/udi$ ! "* (  ! head & face ( ! ,pr9cess
 ( ,wales1 & design$ a coiffure =  h]   
:i* %e has nev] v>i$ until rec5tly2 !n  
%e m]ely arrang$  h] fr+e l[] d[n on h] 
=ehead ?an %e has ev] worn x be=e4  ,!  
g5]al /yle1 h[ev]1 %e pres]ves intact1 &
 we>s h] hair1  & has = _m ye>s1 z is   
%[n 9 ! picture--,no4 #bj4 ,h]          
daught]s1 :o h faces ! same %ape z h]s1 
dress _! coiffures  simil>ly4 ,9 nev]   
*ang+ ! /yle ( arrang+ h] hair1 !       
,pr9cess ( ,wales owes 9 no small degree
 h] app>5t air (  y\?fulness4           
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bj    ,,no ,,matt] 
,,:at ,,! ,,prevail+ ,,/yle ,,^! ,,rules
 ,,may ,,be ,,practically  ,,appli$4    
,,*apt] ,,ii4      ,,h9ts ,,= ,,!       
,,selection ,,( ,,becom+ ,,&            
,,appropriate ,,/yles ,,9 ,,head-,,ge>4 
,closely alli$ to ! subject (           
hair-dress+ is t ( head-ge>4  ,inde$ _m 

( ! h9ts reg>d+ appropriate coiffures = 
c]ta9  /yles ( faces are equally        
applicable to ! selection ( suitable    
hats  & bonnets4 ,! *oos+ ( mill9]y is !
 m mom5t\s ( ! two1  ( c\rse1 = ,i ne$  
sc>cely rem9d y t ,nature left u no     
*oice  9 hair4 ,no matt] :at its color  
or texture we desire to keep x & if  we 
are wise we w make ! be/ ( x4    ,9     
reg>d to hats we are p]sonally          
responsible & our follies are ^u  our   
own heads4    ,! p[] ( c>icature be+    
great] 9 hats ?an 9 hair-dress+1 is  x n
 fit t we %\ld give c>eful & intellig5t 
consid]ation to  ! selection ( our      
mill9]y t ! ugly l9es 9 our o!rwise     
beautiful faces may n be at ! m]cy (    
mock+ bun*es ( ribbons1  comically tilt$
 /raws1 or floppy bits ( lace8    ,!    
,magic ( ,! ,bonnet4    ,once ^u a "t1  
,i ?9k t 0 ! exact date1 !re 0 a man    
di/+ui%$ 9 a c]ta9 k+dom z ! uglie/     
p]son 9 ! realm4  ,accord+ to a bli!    
romanc]1 he 0 s di/9ctively unpleas+ 9  
=m & feature t he *all5g$ ! att5tion ( !

 k+ :o1 9  :imsical mood1 made him a    
royal reta9]4 ,! man s conspicu\sly     
lack+ 9 beauty enjoy$ 8 em95t position &
 privileges = "s  "t4 ,b ev5 ugl9ess1 if
 x atta9 di/9ction1 w excite envy 9  !  
l[-m9d$4 ,a =m] associate ( !           
unbeautiful man 9 invidi\s  temp] br\ght
 ! news "o day to ! k+1 t !re 0 an old  
woman 9 8 doma9 t 0 ugli] ?an !         
l[ly-born man :o by  k+ly favor held s  
high a place4 ,br+ h] to ! c\rt4 ,judges
 %all  be call$ to decide4 ,if %e is    
ugli] %e %all /ay & he %all g1  0 !     
royal m&ate4 ,:5 ! old woman appe>$ %e 0
 easily  decid$ to be by f> ! ugli] ( ! 
two4 ,at ! critical mom5t :5  ! k+ 0 ^u 
! eve ( dismiss+ ! man f 8 ret9ue1 a    
fri5d ( ! un=tunate %\t$1 ,put h] bonnet
 on him6 ,?is 0  done1 & lo6 a fe>ful   
*ange 0 wr\ght4 ,by unanim\s acclamation
 he  0 decl>$ to be ! uglie/ creature on
 e>?4    ,! old woman1 true to ! in/9cts
 ( h] sex1 refus$ to we> h]  bonnet     
aga94 ,l _m ( h] si/]s ( mod]n times1 %e
 _h n  be=e discov]$ ! possibilities 9 a

 bonnet to enhance ! beauty (  ! face or
 decrease its *>ms4    ,if woman c\ld   
see !mselves objectively1 z did ! old   
woman1 !y  w\ld ke5ly realize !         
necessity ( consid]+ ! l9es ( hat or    
bonnet 9 relation to ^? ( _! faces1 &   
w\ld le>n to obscure  defects & br+ into
 prom95ce _! prettie/ features4    ,z   
!re are a few rules to gov]n :at ea*    
type %\ld select1 e  "o ( ! fair        
si/]hood has an equal opportunity to    
improve h]  appe>ance by select+ 9 !    
mill9]y l9e ! di/9ctive adornm5t  suit$ 
to h] individual /yle4    ,illu/ration3 
,,no4 #bb      ,= ,wom5 ) ,broad ,face &
 ,heavy ,*94    ,by a curi\s law (      
contr>iety ! woman ) a broad1 heavy *9  
seems  to h an ungov]nable p5*ant = trig
 little r\nd bonnets1 or trim  turbans )
 p]ky aigrettes1 l t 9 sket* ,no4 #bb4  
,by obey+  ?is wilful pref]5ce %e       
obscures :atev] delicacy may be 9 !     
modell+ ( h] features & br+s into       
conspicu\s relief !  uglie/ l9es ( h]   
face4 ,h] *9 is app>5tly increas$ 9     

heav9ess  & ! broadness ( h] face is    
made prom95t4 ,%e c\ld easily h  re/or$ 
! arti/ic balance to h] facial l9es by  
we>+ a l>ge  hat1 r heavily trimm$1 z 9 
,no4 #bc1 ?us effectively modify+  !    
/rong curves ( ! *9 & signally improv+  
h] appe>ance4 ,if  a woman's face is    
fairly proportion$1 n too %ort = its    
bread?1  & %e c n af=d plumes1 ?is type 
( woman c /ill give a  becom+ balance to
 h] face by adopt+ hats t are trimm$ )  
flamboyant b[s t fl>e horizontally      
across ! hat1 div]g+ f a  c5tral knot 9 
! f4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bc      ,= 
! ,woman ) ,tap]+ ,*94    ,illu/ration3 
,,no4 #bd    ,! woman :o is ! exact     
opposite ( ! type ) ! ample l[]  jaw1 b 
^: *ief disadvantage lies 9 h] broad1   
manly br[ & t9y  tap]+ *91 %\ld avoid   
all horizontal trimm+s1 b[s or broad    
hat-brims4 ,x is cle>1 9 ,no4 #bd1 t su*
 trimm+s increase !  w$ge-l appe>ance ( 
! face & give x ! grotesque sugge/ion  (
 an ord9>y fl[]-pot 9 :i* gr[s a sickly 
plant4 ,?is type c  p]ceptibly improve  

^u nature by *oos+ ! /yle ( hat &       
neck-ge> %[n by ,no4 #be4               
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #be    ,! cr9kly    
ovals t =m ! brim ( ! hat1 & ! s(t1     
graceful  arrangem5t ( ! hair 9 front t 
decreases ! too broad effect (  ! br[1 &
 ! full fluffy ruff snuggl$ up closely  
to ! *91  produce a pleas+ trans=mation 
( ! meagre-look+ orig9al t  to !        
un9itiat$ seems little %ort ( magical4  
,! broad1 cravat-l  b[s1 & ! fl>+ ones  
kn[n z incroyables1 7 b5efic5tly  w$ge-l
 faces & ?roats t h lo/ ! s$uctive      
curves (  y\?4      ,hat = ! ,*ubby     
,woman4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bf    ,t
 amiable type ( woman =m$ conspicu\sly  
^u ! circul> plan  (t5 unconsci\sly     
impresses ! fact ( h] fatal t5d5cy to   
rotundity by repeat+ ! r\ndness ( h]    
globul> eyes1 ! disk-l  appe>ance ( h]  
snub nose & ! circle ( h] r\nd m\?1 & ! 
fulness ( h] face by we>+ a little1 r\nd
 hat 9 ! /yle  portray$ by ,no4 #bf4    
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bg    ,! curls ( h]
 bang1 ! fea!rs 9 h] hat1 ! high coll> (

 h]  jacket make m significant ! fact t 
h] l9es are n arti/ic  & t h] face is   
unbeautifully r\nd4 ,%e c enhance h]    
*>ms &  app>5tly decrease ! too sph]ical
 cut ( h] c\nt5ance by adopt+  ! mode   
illu/rat$ 9 ,no4 #bg4 ,! angul> b[s on !
 hat1 !  geometric l9es ( ! broad       
hat-brim1 ! precise cut ( ! lapels on  !
 corsage1 ! neat ?roat-b& & ,v-%ap$     
ve/ure--all ins9uate 9  a mo/ engag+ way
 a dignity & f9e1 high-br$ poise totally
  oblit]at$ by ! circul> /yle ( dress   
errone\sly adopt$ by !  misguid$ woman 9
 ,no4 #bf4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bh   
,= ,wom5 ,:o ,h ,%>p & ,prom95t         
,pr(iles4    ,9 buy+ a hat _m ( ! unfair
 sex--z ! mod]n wag dubs !  progressive 
si/]s :o wi% to h all man's rights &    
privileges &  keep _! own besides--nev] 
seem to consid] _! heads b f a  front   
po9t ( view4 ,9 consequ5ce1 z sket* ,no 
#bh h9ts1 a head se5  f ! side frequ5tly
 appe>s1 if n idiotically1 v            
in>ti/ically1 proportion$4              
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #bi    ,occasionally

 a hat pres5ts z comical an effect 9 a f
 z 9 a side  view1 z may be se5 9 ,no4  
#bi4 ,! we>] 0 an eld]ly woman )  gray  
hair :i* hung d[n 9 a half-curl$ bang on
 ei!r side ( h]  ?9 face4 ,h] hat :i* 0 
simply dripp+ ) fea!rs sugge/$ a        
fanciful lett] ,t & exagg]at$ ! ?9ness (
 h] face 9 a  rem>kably funny way4 ,!   
fea!rs ov]hang+ ! brim increas$ !       
broadness ( ! hat1 & look$ s+ul>ly      
waggi% flutt]+ aga9/  ! spriggy-look+   
projections ( gray hair4 ,! rules = !   
w$ge-%ap$ face1 z may readily be        
disc]n$1 apply "h4    ,illu/ration3     
,,nos4 #cj ,,& #ca    ,wom5 :o h %>p &  
prom95tly outl9$ pr(iles h a curi\s     
t5d5cy to *oose hats1 ! brims ( :i*     
project too f> =w>d 9  front1 & turn up 
too abruptly & ungracefully 9 ! back4   
,z %[n 9 ,no4 #cj ! protrud+ brim gives 
! head & face !  unattractive           
proportions ( ! capital lett] ,f4 ,!    
l5g? ( !  nose is emphasiz$ by ! l9e ( !
 hat-rim above x & x appe>s  unduly     
obtrusive4 ,! flat arrangem5t ( ! hair &

 ! curve ( !  hat-brim 9 ! back also    
exagg]ate ! obtrusive qualities ( !     
features4 ,by *oos+ a hat some:at simil>
 to ! "o sket*$ 9 ,no4  #ca1 !          
unattractive %>pness ( ! pr(ile is      
modifi$1 & !  al]t1 agreeable quality ( 
! face1 t 0 obscur$ by !  %elf-l brim1  
becomes app>5t4 ,! obs]v] feels1 if he  
does n  voice x1 t x is a progressive _s
 advanc+ =w>d in/ead (  an unga9ly      
head-piece t looks l a curi\s tr[el4    
,= ! ,woman ) an ,angul> ,face4         
,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #cb ,,& #cc    ,!  
woman ) ! angul> features pres5t$ 9 ,no4
 #cb %\ld n we>  a sailor-hat or any hat
 ) a p]fectly /raight rim4    ,!        
sailor-hat or any /yle bord]+ on x %\ld 
be select$ )  utmo/ discrim9ation4 ,?is 
mode is unbecom+ to a woman m ?an  =ty2 
or1 to "o :o ?r\gh grief or worry       
prematurely atta9s a look  ( age1 or to 
"o ^: features are irregul>4 ,! /raight 
brim across  ! face is v try+4 ,x ca/s a
 %ad[ deep5+ ! old m>ks  & in/ead ( be+ 
a frame to set (f1 x seems to cut (f1 ! 

face  at an in>ti/ic angle4    ,! woman 
) angul> features1 z may be se5 by ,no4 
#cc1 c we> )  impunity1 & always %\ld   
we>1 a hat ! brim ( :i* is wav$1  turn$1
 twi/$1 or curv$ 9 graceful l9es4 ,!    
unev5 brim ( h] hat  makes an effective 
complem5t to ! angul>ity ( h] *91 :i* is
  fur!r s(t5$ by ! fea!ry ruff t        
encircles h] ?roat4 ,!  curves ( ! o/ri*
 plumes1 & ! /udi$ c>elessness ( !      
arrangem5t ( h] coiffure1 subdue !      
angles ( h] face :i* are  br\ght out 9  
unbecom+ prom95ce by ! sailor-hat4      
,wom5 ,:o %\ld ,n ,we> ,horns4    ,!    
velvet horns on ei!r side ( a hat1 !    
/eeple-l c5tral  adornm5ts t 7 once mu* 
9 favor1 & ! ,m]cury w+s t  ornam5t !   
coiffure = ev5+ dress1 produce "s />tl+1
  disagreeable1 & amus+ effects n       
altoge!r un9t]e/+ to  consid]4    ,faces
 9 :i* ! eyes are set too ne> ! =ehead  
acquire a sc>$  look by be+ surm\nt$ by 
a bonnet ^u :i* ! trimm+ gravitates  to 
a po9t 9 an arrangem5t n unsugge/ive ( a
 rev]s$ fan1 horns1  or a /eeple4    ,! 

mo/ unpleas+ developm5ts result f ! we>+
 ( !  horn-l trimm+s ei!r 9 velvet or   
jet4 ,if ! face above :i*  !y fl>e has  
less ( ! spiritual ?an ! co>se          
prop5sities 9 x1  ! grotesque turns &   
twi/s 9 ! head-ge> emphasize ! animality
  9 ! l9es *>act]i/ic ( l[-br$ t5d5cies1
 & ! :ole  c\nt5ance is vulg>iz$4 ,"o   
face acquires ! look ( a fox1 ano!r  ( a
 c]ta9 type ( dog1 & s on4    ,! mo/    
amus+ exagg]ations ( di/9ctive facial   
l9es are produc$  by ,m]cury w+s4 ,!    
good-natur$ woman ( ! famili> type      
depict$  9 ,no4 #cd br+s e bov9e        
attribute ( h] placid c\nt5ance into    
conspicu\s relief by surm\nt+ h] face ) 
! w+s ( !  fleet-foot$ god4 ,! c[-l =m &
 s]5ity ( h] features are  made         
laughably obvi\s4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4
 #cd    ,%ort1 delicately-fac$ wom5 c   
adorn _! coiffures ) ,m]cury  w+s ) mo/ 
*>m+ results4 ,w+s1 or p]p5dicul> b[s1  
add  l5g? to ! l9es ( ! %ort face1 giv+ 
x a c]ta9 sugge/ion  ( ref9em5t &       
di/9ction t is :olly de/roy$ by ! we>+ (

  any trimm+s t %[ at ! sides4    ,,no  
,,matt] ,,:at ,,! ,,prevail+ ,,/yle ,,^!
 ,,rules ,,may ,,be ,,practically       
,,appli$4          ,,*apt] ,,iii4       
,,l9es ,,t ,,%\ld ,,be ,,recogniz$ ,,&  
,,consid]$ ,,9 ,,mak+ ,,co/umes4        
,mme4 ,la ,mode1 mu* misrepres5t$ z are 
all :o are emb>rass$ )  _w-wide         
popul>ity always consid]s :5 design+    
fa%ions t  wom5 v>y 9 =m1 z 9 mood4 ,%e 
suits all ne$s1 al?\gh ?is fact  has    
nev] be5 ca/ to h] cr$it4 ,) a beautiful
 s5se (  adju/m5t--z obvi\s z t 9       
,nature1 t projects ! huge  wat]melon to
 rip5 on a sl5d] v9e on ! gr\nd & sw+s a
  gre5gage plum on ! /\t /em ( a tree to
 mature 9 /orm or  %9e--,mme4 ,la ,mode1
 arbit] ( /yles1 balances h] fa%ions4   
,nev] came ! big hat )\t ! small bonnet4
 ,accompany+ ! long  cloak is !         
nev]-fail+ %ort cape4 ,side by side may 
be f\nd !  long coat & ! %ort1 natty    
jacket4 ,?is equilibrium 9 we>+  app>el 
may be trac$ ?r\gh all ! vag>ies (      
fa%ion4    ,ev]ybody's ne$ has be5      

consid]$1 b ev]ybody has n consid]$  h] 
ne$4    ,! %ort1 /\t woman passes by !  
long coat bett] adapt$ to h]  & seizes a
 %ort jacket--a homeopa?ic t5d5cy ( l   
suit+ l1  sometimes efficaci\s 9 m$ic9e1
 b fatal 9 /yle4      ,/yle = ,tall     
,sl5d] ,woman4    ,! v tall1 sl5d] woman
 frequ5tly ignores a jaunty jacket &    
takes a long coat l t %[n 9 ,no4 #cf4   
,to ev5 ! sluggi% fancy ( an            
unimag9ative obs]v] %e sugge/s a        
*ampagne bottle1 & to ! ready wit %e    
h9ts ( no end ( amus+  possibilities =  
c>icature4    ,! v tall woman %\ld "k t 
long l9es f %\ld] to foot  give height1 
& %e mu/ disc]n+ly /rive to avoid l5g? (
 l9e  9 h] g>m5ts until %e dons ! raim5t
 ( ! angels4    ,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #cf
 ,,& #cg    ,horizontal l9es cross+ !   
figure seem to decrease height1 & %\ld  
be us$ z mu* z possible 9 ! arrang+ &   
trimm+ ( ! tall  woman's g>m5ts4    ,by 
select+ a %ort] coat equally modi%1 z   
%[n by ,no4 #cg1 ! too  tall woman      
%ort5s h] figure p]ceptibly4    ,! belt 

cuts (f f h] height 9 a felicit\s way1 &
 ! coll>1  also horizontal1 mat]ially   
improves ! size ( h] ?roat4 ,! high     
coll>1 su* z f9i%es ! coat1 9 ,no4 #cf1 
adds to ! l5g?4 ,^?  :o h too long arms 
c use horizontal b&s on sleeves mo/     
advantage\sly4      ,! ,coat ! ,%ort    
,/\t ,woman %\ld ,we>4    ,! %ort jacket
 t s graci\sly improv$ ! appe>ance ( !  
sl5d] specim5 ( fem99ity is s9i/] 9 its 
effect on ! %ort1  /\t woman1 9 sket*   
,no4 #ch4 ,x %\ld be ! /udy ( h] life to
  avoid horizontal l9es4 ,l5g? ( limb is
 to be desir$ because x adds  di/9ction4
 ,h] belt1 ! horizontal effect ( ! skirt
 ( ! jacket1  ! horizontal trimm+ ( !   
bottom ( ! skirt1 all app>5tly  %ort5+  
h] height1 t5d to make h] ord9>y &      
commonplace 9  appe>ance4               
,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #ch ,,& #ci    ,if 
h] hips are n too pron\nc$ %e c we> !   
long coat1 %[n 9  picture ,no4 #ci4 ,!  
,v-%ap$ ve/ure gives h] a long] wai/1 & 
!  long l9es ( ! rev]s add to ! l5g? (  
h] skirt4 ,if h] hips are  too prom95t1 

%e %\ld avoid hav+ any tight-fitt+      
g>m5ts t  br+ ! fact into relief4 ,%e   
%\ld n we> ! long coat1 b %e  c         
effectively modify x to suit h] ne$s1 by
 only hav+ a skirt1 or  tabs1 or f9i%+  
/raps 9 ! back4 ,if h] jacket or basque 
is  f9i%$ (f ) a skirt effect1 x is be/ 
to h ! little skirt  sw]ve away j at !  
hip-l9e1 half reveal+ & half conceal+ x4
    ,! front %\ld be made 9 a jacket    
effect1 f9i%+ j at !  wai/-l9e & op5+   
ov] a bl\se front t w conceal !         
wai/-l9e4 ,x is be/ = ! too %ort1 /\t   
woman to obscure h]  wai/-l9e z mu* z   
possible1 to app>5tly give h] increase (
  height4    ,to put ! wai/-l9e high up 
adds to l5g? ( limb1 &1 ( c\rse1 is  to 
be desir$1 b ! fact t :at is add$ bel[  
is tak5 f above  ! wai/1 %\ld impel     
c>eful discrim9ation 9 ! arrangem5t (   
?is equatorial b&4      ,! ,cloak or    
,cape = a ,tall ,woman4    ,! long      
circul> cloak is ano!r graceful g>m5t t 
c be worn  ) *>m+ effect by ! woman (   
classic height1 b %\ld nev] be  9 !     

w>drobe ( a v tall woman except = use at
 ! op]a1 :5  its s]vice is *iefly       
requir$ 9 ! c>riage1 or :5 its we>] is  
sitt+4 ,x is s obvi\s1 9 sket* ,no4 #dj1
 t ! v]tical l9es !  folds ( ! cloak    
naturally fall into give a /eeple-l     
appe>ance to  ! tall woman x enfolds1 t 
x is sc>cely necess>y to comm5t ^u  x4  
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #dj    ,t h]        
judici\s selection %\ld h be5 ! %ort    
cape1 :i*  comes1 z all capes %\ld1 to  
be arti/ic1 well bel[ ! elb[s1 is       
cle>ly illu/rat$ 9 picture ,no4 #da4 ,! 
horizontal trimm+ v  becom+ly plays its 
"p 9 ! g5]ally improv+ effect4          
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #da    ,! "o :o c   
we> ! long cloak 9 an un*all5geable     
mann] is !  %ort1 /\t woman1 %[n 9 sket*
 ,no4 #db4    ,by we>+ ! %ort cape )    
circul>1 fluffy coll>ette1 sket*$ 9     
,no4 #dc1 %e gives h]self ! look ( a    
smo!r$1 affright$ ,co*9  ,*9a *ick52 or1
 z an imag9ative s*ool-girl rem>k$ ( h] 
"m  :o wore a cape ( simil> /yle1 %e    
looks z if h] neck 7  encircl$ by bun*es

 ( asp>agus4    ,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #db
 ,,& #dc    ,! milit>y dignity %e       
acquires by we>+ ! long cape is becom+  
to a degree1 & gives h] di/9ction 9 =m4 
,by rememb]+ t horizontal trimm+s       
app>5tly decrease !  height1 & t v]tical
 l9es add to x1 ^? :o desire to appe> at
  _! be/ w use disc]nm5t 9 divid+ _!    
basques ) yokes1 or  corsage m\nt+s at !
 bu/-l9e or frills at ! hip-l9e4    ,a  
fl\nce on ! corsage at ! bu/-l9e1 ano!r 
at ! hip-l9e1 &  yet ano!r at ! bottom (
 ! %irt1 increases ! impression (       
bulk9ess mo/ aggressively & gives a     
b>rel-l appe>ance to !  =m ( a /\t woman
 t is decid$ly funny1 z may be se5 9    
sket*  ,no4 #dd4    ,a /udy ( ! l9es ( !
 =m w n only aid "o 9 adopt+ a  m becom+
 /yle ( dress1 b w %>p5 ! arti/ic       
p]ceptions1 ?us add+ to ! joy ( life4   
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #dd    ,a beautiful 
=m is bett] ?an a beautiful face & %\ld 
be clo!d  s t its l9es may appe> at _!  
be/1 & n be exagg]at$ &  c>icatur$4 ,!  
figure is se5 _m m times ?an ! face1 & !

  defects ( ! =m] are m conspicu\s ?an  
^? ( ! latt]4    ,d n be unju/ to y\r   
beautiful body1 ! temple ( y\r s\l2     
above  all1 d n c>icature x by select+  
y\r clo!s )  indiscrim9at+ ta/e4    ,,no
 ,,matt] ,,:at ,,! ,,prevail+ ,,mode    
,,^! ,,rules ,,may ,,be ,,practically   
,,appli$4          ,,*apt] ,,iv4        
,,h[ ,,plump ,,& ,,?9 ,,backs ,,%\ld    
,,be ,,clo!d4    ,%e 0 f ! middle-,we/1 
& despite ! fact t %e 0 m>ri$1  & t     
tw5ty-"o half-bl[n blu% roses _h        
enwrea!d h] la/  bir?day cake1 %e _h !  
al]t1 quizzical brightness ( a *ild :o  
*all5ges ev]ybody & ev]y?+ t passes ) ! 
c\nt]sign--,:y8 ,%e inve/igat$ ,new     
,york ) unaba%$ int]e/1  &1 l _m ano!r  
sup]ior prov9cial1 %e freely express$ h]
  likes & dislikes = its traditions1    
%[-places1 & p ) a  comm&+ & amus+      
audacity4    ,h] objections 7 num]\s4 ,!
 *ief "o t made a deep impression  ^u h]
 metropolitan fri5ds 0 h] disapproval ( 
,s>ah ,b]nh>dt's  act+4 ,!              
middle-,we/]n]1 in/ead ( becom+ ec/atic 

9 h]  admiration1 & at a loss =         
adjectives at ! appe>ance ( ! div9e     
,s>ah1 m]ely p]k$ at ! great ,fr5* arti/
 = "s "t & !n  dem&$1 qu]ul\sly3 ,:at's 
! matt] ) h]8 ,:y does %e play  s mu* ) 
h] back to ! audi5ce8 ,i don't l x4     
,x 0 a %ock to ! ador]s ( ,s>ah ,b]nh>dt
 to he> h] s  irrev]5tly criticis$4 ,!y 
loyally unit$ 9 h] def5ce1 & s\ght  to  
squel* ! revolt] by l(tily expla9+ t !  
actress turn$  h] back s (t5 to !       
audi5ce because %e _h su* a noble1 g5]\s
  nature & desir$ to give ! o!r actors a
 *ance4 ,%e lets !m  take ! c5tre ( !   
/age1 z !y say 9 ! pr(ession1 rem>k$  "o
 ( ! p>ty1 :o prid$ h]self ^u be+ v]s$ 9
 ! argot (  ! !atre4    ,b %e plays ) h]
 back to ! audi5ce :5 %e is speak+ &    
act+1 & ev]ybody else on ! /age is /ill 
b h]self1  petulantly insi/$ ! ,we/]n   
,phili/9e1 %[+ no signs ( defeat4    ,! 
situation 0 n :olly agreeable4 ,!       
wor%ipp]s ( ,s>ah c\ld  say no?+ m 9    
ju/ification ( h] turn+ h] back on !m1  
b1  ) true fem99e logic1 conclud$1 ,if  

,s>ah ,b]nh>dt turns h] back  on !      
audi5ce x is "r1 & t is all !re is to   
say4    ,j at ?is dramatic mom5t a voice
 f ! adjo9+ r[  provid5tially int]pos$4 
,! voice belong$ to a well-kn[n expon5t 
( physical culture1 :o 0 nev] s happy z 
:5 in/ruct+ !  intellectually ne$y4 ,%e 
said3 ,i w tell y :y %e plays ) h]  back
 t[>ds ! audi5ce m ?an any o!r actress  
^u ! /age  to-day4 ,! middle-,we/]n]1 no
 less impress$ ?an h] metropolitan      
fri5ds1 li/5$ eag]ly4    ,! expon5t (   
/raight backs & high *e/s expla9$       
didactically3  ,! back is wond]fully    
expressive2 inde$ x is full ( vital     
expression4 ,b]nh>dt kn[s ?is bett] ?an 
any o!r actress because  %e has /udi$   
/atu>y ) ! passion ( a sculptor1 &      
because %e  und]/&s t1 n only ! face1 b 
! entire physical /ructure1  is capable 
( express+ dramatic emotions4 ,/rong    
feel+ & action  may be /rik+ly reveal$  
by ! back4 ,imprecations1 d5unciations1 
ev5 pray]s1 seem to be *>g$ ) m =ce :5  
an actress  deliv]s !m ) h] back turn$1 

or half-turn$ to ! audi5ce4             
,b]nh>dt's back expresses a /orm ( fury 
:5 %e imprecates  v5geance1 said ! voice
 ( au?ority4 ,n only on ! /age is !     
expression ( ! back disc]nible1 & a k ( 
its "*  valuable1 b 9 e-day life 9      
draw+-room & /reet4 ,h[ _m  wom5 consid]
 _! backs :5 !y dress8 ,look at ! backs 
"h  de=m$ by laces & fallals1 %e w5t on 
contemptu\sly4 ,!  majority ( wom5 nev] 
look bel[ _! *9s & ,i believe n "o 9  t5
 ev] looks ?\ghtfully at h] back1 %e    
said emphatically4    ,! dramatic value 
( a well-pois$1 expressive back may only
 conc]n  ! ?\s&s ( "y wom5 :o are aspir+
 to be a ,s>ah ,b]nh>dt or  a ,ra*el2 b 
a k ( :at con/itutes a prop]ly &        
arti/ically clo!d back %\ld be ( int]e/ 
to all wom5 9  civiliz$ c\ntries4    ,t 
!re is mu* tru? 9 ! ass]tion t !        
majority ( wom5  nev] look bel[ _! *9s1 
& n "o 9 t5 ev] looks  ?\ghtfully at h] 
back1 e obs]v] ( womank9d might te/ify4 
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #de    ,! op5       
placket-hole & sagg+ wai/-b&1 sket*$ 9  

,no4 #de1 is an  all too famili> sight t
 adv]tises ! fact t too few wom5 take   
ev5 a cursory look at _! backs4 ,fa!rs &
 bro!rs :o wi% to  protect _! womank9d f
 adv]se criticism frequ5tly give        
impromptu  lectures ^u ?is v subject1 z 
?is slov5ly arrangem5t ( skirt  & basque
 is n only se5 9 ,gr& ,/reet1 ,second   
,av5ue1 & equally  unfa%ionable qu>t]s1 
b 9 ,fif? ,av5ue :]e ! modi% set are en 
vid5ce4 ,if ! da9ty safety-p9 display$ 9
 ,no4 #df1 goes out (  vogue1 !         
"t-honor$ cu/om ( sew+ hooks to !       
wai/-b& ( !  dress1 is always 9 fa%ion4 
,inde$1 _m wom5 pref] ?is way (         
connect+ sep>ate skirt & wai/ to us+ a  
conspicu\s p94 ,?is is  almo/ too       
trivial a detail to disc\rse ^u1 b x is 
z true t  details make dress z x is t   
trifles make life--& nei!r life  nor    
dress is a trifle4    ,illu/ration3     
,,no4 #df    ,! (f5ce 9 ,no4 #de is m ! 
result ( untid9ess ?an ( a lack (       
arti/ic discrim9ation4 ,nos4 #df-a_/b & 
#dg1 on ! contr>y1 outrage  ! laws (    

art1 & display ignorance ( ! value &    
beauty ( l9es4    ,no4 #df-a_/b might   
s]ve to conceal a de=mity ( ! %\ld]s4 ,t
  really seems its only excuse = be+4 ,!
 full1 ugly1 /raight pleat  t falls to j
 bel[ ! wai/-l9e l5ds nei!r grace nor   
/yle to  ! figure4 ,x is too %ort to    
give ! di/9ction & dignity t  h&some    
wraps ) long l9es almo/ inv>iably d1    
al?\gh !y seem  to add age to ! =m4 ,!re
 is a h9t ( y\? 9 ?is ungraceful  jacket
 to be sure1 b x is n especially        
attractive 9 its sugge/ion  (           
y\?fulness4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4      
#df-a_/b    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #dg     
,no4 #dg1 ) a l9e at ! neck-b&1 cross$  
b&s 9 ! c5tre ( !  %\ld]s1 & l9es across
 ! back1 is obvi\sly in>ti/ic4 ,! back  
( a ,v5us1 ev51 w\ld be detract$ f by   
su* criss-cross$ effects4  ,happy !     
woman :o has s %apely a back %e c af=d  
to all[ h]  wai/ to fit smoo?ly &       
pla9ly1 unbrok5 by any conspicu\s l9es4 
,if  b&s mu/ be us$ to rem$y !          
defici5cies ( ung5]\s ,nature1 let  !m  

be at ! neck & wai/2 & if ! back is     
unconscionably long1 a  b&1 or fold1 or 
ruffle across ! %\ld]s is to be comm5d$4
    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #dh    ,no4 #dh 
reveals a gl>+ error frequ5tly made by !
 ?9 si/]hood4 ,a  tall1 sl5d] woman ) a 
long wai/1 %\ld n emphasize h] l5g?  (  
l9es by we>+ po9t$ or ,v-%ap$ effects4  
,! ,v-%ap$  arrangem5t1 ei!r 9 cut or   
trimm+s1 app>5tly increases h]  longness
 & leanness4 ,%e %\ld aim to %ort5 h]   
wai/ in/ead (  l5g!n+ x z ! basque f9i%$
 ) a po9t obvi\sly does4 ,!  droop+     
sleeves elongate h] %\ld]-l9es1 & br+   
into cle>]  relief h] meagre            
proportions4 ,%e c easily improve h]    
appe>ance by  adopt+ ei!r /yle ( g[n    
portray$ by ,nos4 #di1 or #ej4 ,! broad 
belt at ! wai/-l9e 9 ,no4 #di1 & !      
flamboyant lace or braid$  piece t      
adorns ! %\ld]s1 p]ceptibly adds to h]  
bread? &  decreases h] l5g?4            
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #di    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #ej    ,no4 #ej is a felicit\s   
cut = a /reet dress = a slim si/]4 ,!   

jaunty bl\s$ wai/ sm>tly conceals       
defici5cies 9 f9e po9ts4    ,! tall1 ?9 
si/]hood %\ld es*ew po9t$ effects & /udy
 to  atta9 app>5t bread? by us+ trimm+s 
arrang$ horizontally4 ,b&s  ( velvet1   
braid 9 wav$ l9es1 ruffles1 & n too     
deeply cut  scallops1 may be us$        
effectively by ! v sl5d]1 :o sometimes  
appe> z if !y are )\t =m & void1 z ! e>?
 0 9 !  beg9n+4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4  
#ea    ,no4 #ea is an exposition ( !    
mi/ake made by ! /urdy si/]hood (  /\t &
 p5dul\s proportions4 ,x is pla9 to be  
se5 t ! fluffy  ru*e at ! ?roat-b&1 & ! 
ruffle at ! %\ld]1 & !  spread+ b[ at ! 
wai/1 & ! trimm$ sleeves1 add bulk9ess  
to a  =m already too g5]\sly end[$ )    
flabby rotundity4 ,corpul5t  wom5 mu/   
=ego ! swagg] little basques or any sort
 ( %ort1  fl\nc$ effects bel[ !         
wai/-l9e4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #eb    
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ec    ,nos4 #eb &  
#ec are em95tly adapt$ to ! matron (    
ample dim5sions4  ,"o obs]v] (          
beauty-giv+ effects has n unadvis$ly    

call$ !  wai/-l9e ! dang]-l9e4 ,a /\t   
si/]1 above all o!rs1 %\ld  n acc5tuate 
! wai/-l9e4 ,%e %\ld conceal x z mu* z  
possible4 ,! coat back ( ,no4 #eb       
app>5tly l5g!ns ! wai/4    ,! same      
effect is produc$ by ! arrangem5t (     
ribbons 9 ,no4 #ec1 &  by ! long-po9t$  
basque4 ,v-%ap$ effects & long-po9t$    
basques  are z becom+ to ^? burd5$ )    
fle% z !y are unbecom+ to  tall1 ?9     
wom54    ,long1 graceful folds &        
drap]ies are admirable = ! /\t          
si/]hood1 :o %\ld avoid %ort sacques &  
tight-fitt+ g>m5ts  t give ! on-look] an
 uncom=table impression2 !re is too mu* 
9 a small space4 ,v light colors & ?9   
textures t bill[ &  float %\ld be es*ew$
 by ! l>ge1 fle%y woman :o wi%es to give
  ! impression t %e possesses ! l9es ( a
 f9ely modell$ /atue4  ,%e %\ld avoid   
puffs & any sugge/ion ( ! pulpy &       
clumsy1 &  be c>eful n to sub-divide !  
body ( h] dress by plaits or braids     
laid on horizontally across or above !  
bu/1 or bel[ ! hips4  ,horizontal l9es  

inv>iably decrease ! height2 = t reason 
/\t  wom5 %\ld n we> dresses cut squ>e 9
 ! neck1 b %\ld adh]e  to ! graceful    
,v-or he>t-%ap$ cut :i* has a t5d5cy to 
give  l5g?4    ,! rotund woman ) a %ort 
wai/1 sket*$ 9 ,no4 #ed1 may improve h] 
figure1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #ee1 by *oos+ belts
 & coll>s ! exact  %ade ( h] %irt-wai/s 
9 summ]1 & by n cutt+ (f h] height  by  
any sort ( outside belt on w9t] g[ns4   
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ed    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #ee    ,tall1 /\t wom5 %\ld =ego 
high heels on _! %oes1 high hats1  &    
/rip$ dresses4 ,al?\gh /ripes increase !
 effect ( height1  !y also add to t (   
bread?4 ,a pla9 clo? basque & skirt (   
/rip$ mat]ial make a happy compromise & 
c be worn ) becom+  effect by a /\t     
woman4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ef    ,a 
basque cut high beh9d & on ! %\ld]s     
app>5tly gives height4    ,a v /\t woman
 %\ld nev] we> d\ble skirts or tunics or
 dresses  ) l>ge sprawl+ patt]ns1 su* z 
depict$ by cut ,no4 #ef1 :i*  sugge/s   
furniture /uffs4 ,a l>ge woman :o _h a  

fancy = we>+  ri* brocades figur$ )     
imm5se floral designs 0 famili>ly call$ 
by h] k9d fri5ds ! escap$ s(a4    ,:ite1
 or v light colors1 %\ld nev] be worn by
 ! /\t2 !y  greatly increase ! app>5t   
size4 ,l>ge plaids %\ld also be  es*ew$4
 ,small *ecks & plaids may sometimes be 
becom+4    ,nei!r ! too ?9 nor ! too /\t
 %\ld adopt a /yle ( g[n  t c>icatures !
 =m z does ! volum9\s wrapp]1 f9i%$ )  a
 box-pleat1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #eg4 ,!re is no
 grace 9 /raight l9es4    ,illu/ration3 
,,nos4 #eg ,,& #eh    ,no4 #eh1 :i*     
acc5tuates ! height ( ! ov]-tall1 ?9    
woman1 is  bett] adapt$ to enhance !    
*>ms ( a woman ( f9] proportions4  ,!   
bony & scrawny1 ( ! type ( ,no4 #eh1    
seem to h a p]v]se  desire to we> :at   
makes _! pov]ty 9 physical *>ms only m  
conspicu\s4 ,a woman ( di/9ction 9      
,bo/on1 :o is exce$+ly ?9  & tall1 wore 
,watteau pleats s frequ5tly1 ev5 on     
reception &  ev5+ g[ns t %e 0 dubb$ by a
 wag ! fire-escape1 a title  :i* s      
/rik+ly *>act]iz$ h] /yle1 t ! t]m 0    

adopt$  by all h] fri5ds :5 !y ex*ang$  
confid5ces conc]n+ h]4    ,! g>m5t ) !  
,watteau pleat is n unlike ! pr9cesse   
g[n  :i* is a v try+ /yle except to     
h&somely proportion$ wom54 ,a  tall1    
well-develop$ woman1 su* z %[n 9 sket*  
,no4 #ei1 adorns !  pr9cesse g[n &      
atta9s 9 x a /atuesque beauty4 ,9       
sugge/+  /atu>y x fulfils ! true ideal (
 dress1 :i* %\ld h9t (  poetry1 art1    
sculpture1 pa9t+4 ,! mass+ ( colors2 !  
arrangem5t  ( l9es1 ! quality (         
textures1 ! grace & poise ( ! we>]--d  n
 ^! h9t ( picture1 /atue1 music8        
,,*apt] ,v4      ,,corsages             
,,appropriate ,,= ,,wom5 ,,)            
,,unbeautifully ,,modell$ ,,?roats ,,&  
,,%\ld]s4    ,despite ! traditional     
belief t a dcollet corsage is a tyrann\s
  necessity ( ev5+ dress1 a woman n     
graci\sly end[$ ) a  beautifully modell$
 ?roat & %\ld]s may1 ) p]fect propriety1
  conceal h] infelicit\s l9es f !       
d]isive gaze ( a critical  public4      
,wom5 are indebt$ to t g5tle g5ius1 ,la 

,duse1 = ! sugge/ion  t a veil$ ?roat & 
bu/ may *>m+ly fulfil ! requirem5ts (   
ev5+ dress1 & also satisfy t s5se (     
delicacy peculi> to "s  wom5 :o h n     
inh]it$ f _! great-great-gr&mo!rs !     
c]ta9 k t a l[-neck$ g[n is absolutely  
decor\s4    ,! wom5 :o does n possess   
delicate p]sonal *>ms comm5ds h]self  to
 ! beauty-lov+ by =be>+ to expose h]    
physical defici5cies4  ,unless x is     
because !y are enslav$ by cu/om1 x is q 
incompreh5sible :y "s wom5 w gl>+ly     
display gaunt  proportions t signally   
lack ! exquisite l9es ( firm & solid    
fle%4    ,a ?roat l a t5-/r+$ in/rum5t1 
surm\nt+ squ>e %\ld]s  t end 9 knobs t  
obtrude above unfill$ holl[s1 is an     
unpleas+  vision t looms up conspicu\sly
 too (t5 9 op]a-box &  draw+-room4      
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #fa    ,!           
unattractive exhibition #fa1 is a       
famili> sight 9 ! social _w4  ,h[       
insuff]ably ugly su* uncov]$ anatomy    
appe>s 9 ! sc5]y ( a  ri* & da9ty       
music-room may be readily imag9$ by ^?  

:o h  be5 sp>$ ! unpleas+ display4 ,x is
 s obvi\s t %\ld]s  l ^! %\ld always be 
cov]$ t x seems sup]flu\s to rem>k  t   
?is type %\ld nev] we> any sleeve t     
falls bel[ !  %\ld]-l9e4                
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #fb    ,! sleeve    
fall+ (f ! %\ld] 0 inv5t$ = ! classic   
cont\r1 set =? 9 ,no4 #fb4 ,nor ribbons1
 nor lace1 nor jewel are  ne$$ to       
enhance ! p]fect beauty ( a f9e1 sl5d]1 
:ite ?roat1  & ! felicit\s curves (     
slop+ %\ld]s4    ,"o ^: individual      
end[m5ts are z meagre z are ^? pres5t$ 9
  ,no4 #fa may improve h] defects by    
adopt+ ei!r /yle ( corsage1  %[n 9      
sket*es ,nos4 #fc & #fd4    ,a woman's  
?roat may lack a c]ta9 desirable        
r\ndness1 & h]  %\ld]s may rec$e 9      
awkw>d l9es1 & yet betwe5 ^! defective  
features ! curves may h a n unpleas+    
da9t9ess & delicacy 9  modell+ t c be   
advantage\sly reveal$4 ,a modi% velvet  
?roat-b&1 su* z is %[n by ,no4 #fc1 is  
"o ( ! mo/ graceful  conceits ( fa%ion4 
,! too slim ?roat encircl$ by velvet or 

ornam5t$ ) a jewell$ buckle or broo* is 
effectively fram$4 ,!  unsightly l9es ( 
! %\ld]s are cov]$1 & j en\gh           
individual robu/ness is disclos$ to     
sugge/ ) becom+ propriety  ! conv5tional
 dcollet corsage4 ,! ,pr9cess ( ,wales  
is z con/ant  to h] velvet or pe>l      
neck-b&1 z to h] especial /yle (        
coiffure4  ,h] ?roat1 9 ev5+ dress1 nev]
 appe>s unadorn$ by "o or !  o!r ( ^!   
beautiful b&s t s clev]ly conceal       
defects &  seem to br+ out m ri*ly !    
texture & color+ ( h&some b>e  %\ld]s4  
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #fc    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #fd    ,^? :o d n approve ( !    
dcollet /yle ( dress1 or ^:  ungraceful 
proportions might well be entirely      
conceal$1 c we> )  appropriat5ess &     
b5efit ! corsage %[n 9 ,no4 #fd4 ,?is   
has mu*  9 its favor = a sl5d] body4 ,! 
upp] "p ( ! wai/ may be made  ( *iffon  
or crpe1 :i* is beautifully--"o might   
say  b5ignly--transluc5t4 ,x has an     
ins9uat+ transp>5cy t nei!r  reveals nor
 conceals too mu*4 ,! neck-b& ( velvet  

or sat91 full  & s(t1 app>5tly enl>ges !
 ?roat4 ,! sleeves may be 9 :atev]  /yle
 9 cut prevails4 ,?is co/ume c>ries     
p]fectly into effect !  requirem5ts (   
ev5+ dress1 & may be worn ) equal       
fitness to  =mal functions or to in=mal 
affairs4 ,a coat-sleeve ( lace1 crpe1   
or *iffon1 befl\nc$ at ! wri/1 may be   
ins]t$ "u ! %ort  sat9 sleeves :5 !     
occasion does n require gloves4 ,! s(t1 
:ite  sett+ ( ?9 textures ar\nd ! ?roat 
& %\ld]s cle>s !  complexion & br+s into
 relief ! pretty1 delicate l9es ( a     
ref9$ face4    ,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #fe 
& #ff    ,x is pla9 to be se5 t !       
unattractive specim5 ( fem99ity1  ,no4  
#fe41 ) ! long1 wr9kl$ neck & %>ply l9$ 
face is  unbecom+ly co/um$ 9 ! ,v-%ap$  
basque & corsage :i*  app>5tly elongate 
h] natural lankness4 ,a *>m+ & always   
fa%ionable yoke-effect t %e c we> to    
advantage is %[n by ,no4  #ff4 ,?is /yle
 ( corsage is equally effective = a too 
?9 or a too  muscul> neck4 ,! fill+ is (
 tulle4    ,a squ>e-cut corsage is mo/  

becom+ to ! woman ^: n>r[  %\ld]s h a   
consumptive droop4 ,! angul> cut        
app>5tly height5s  ! %\ld]s & decreases 
_! too /eeple-l incl9ation4 ,!  r\nd    
cut1 if x frames a full ?roat1 is also  
an effective /yle =  slop+ %\ld]s4 ,!   
,v-%ap$ cut is mo/ becom+ to !          
%ort-neck$  woman1 ^: aim %\ld be to    
increase ! l5g? ( h] ?roat4    ,x is n  
only ! too ?9 neck t ne$s to be clo!d ) 
discrim9ation4 ,?roats & %\ld]s t are   
too robu/ are improv$  by be+ cov]$4 ,! 
arms & %\ld]s1 h[ev]1 are (t5 ! *ief    
beauty ( a fle%y woman1 & x is to h]    
advantage to give !m z  effective a     
sett+ z possible4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4
 #fh    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #fg    ,z is
 obvi\s 9 ,no4 #fg1 ! /\t woman app>5tly
 increases h]  bread? by we>+ a         
flamboyant corsage1 & %e hides ! mo/    
exquisite l9es ( h] arm ) h] sleeves4   
,! pr9cesse /yle ( g[n1 9 ,no4 #fh1     
gives h] app>5t l5g? (  wai/4 ,! mode/  
lace fl\nce t falls 9 v]tical folds     
decreases  h] =midable corsage4 ,!      

knott$ twi/ ( silk reveals ! full       
beauty ( h] arm4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 
#fi    ,9 dress+ ! ?roat !re are a few  
rules to be rememb]$4 ,a too  long1     
/em-l neck may be app>5tly %ort5$ by a  
/&+ ruff or a  full1 s(t b& ( velvet4 ,!
 tight1 pla9 b& ( velvet %\ld nev]  be  
worn by a woman ) a v slim neck1 z is   
pla9ly disc]nible 9  sket* ,no4 #fi4    
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #gj    ,! pla91     
milit>y coll> emphasizes ! ?9ness ( !   
sl5d]  woman's ?roat2 b ! s(t cru%$ fold
 ( velvet app>5tly enl>ges  ! pipe-l    
proportions ( ! ?9 woman's neck1 z may  
be se5 9  sket* ,no4 #gj4 ,! tight-fitt+
 coll> %\ld n be worn by !  corpul5t    
woman ) a ?ick neck1 z is %[n by sket*  
,no4 #ga4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ga    
,! ?ickness ( ! ?roat ( ! woman pictur$ 
9 ,no4 #gb may seem due  to ! folds ( ! 
velvet1 :i* give a pleas+ h9t ( a sl5d] 
?roat1 a delusion n to be despis$ by !  
woman burd5$ ) fle%4    ,illu/ration3   
,,no4 #gb    ,all ! si/]hood1--/\t1 ?91 
long-?roat$1 or %ort1--%\ld "k  ! h\r :5

 ! )]+ t\* ( age beg9s to %r9k ! s(t1   
r\nd curves di/9ctive ( ! full1 sweet   
?roat ( heal?ful y\?4  ,no regretful    
vanity %\ld be all[$ to glam\r _! eyes  
to ! fact  t ,"t has !m by ! ?roat1 to  
put x melodramatically4 ,! wise  woman w
 n please h]self ) a fatal delusion4 ,%e
 w realize x  is illusion %e ne$s-y>ds (
 x--lace or velvet1 or any beautify+    
texture t w conceal ! deadly l9es ( age4
          ,,*apt] ,,vi4      ,,h9ts ,,on
 ,,dress ,,= ,,eld]ly ,,wom54    ,dress 
has mu* to d ) a y\?ful or ag$          
appe>ance4 ,%awls & long  mantles t fall
 f ! %\ld]s give ev5 y\?ful figures a   
look  ( age1 because ! l9es are long &  
dignifi$ & )\t especial  grace4         
,beautiful wraps1 or coats t d n come v 
f> bel[ !  hip-l9e1 c be worn becom+ly  
by eld]ly ladies1 nei!r emphasiz+  _!   
ye>s nor mak+ !m appe> too frivol\sly   
attir$4 ,!re is a  smack ( tru? 9 !     
maxim1 ,z a woman gr[s old ! dress      
mat]ial  %\ld increase 9 ri*ness &      
decrease 9 brightness4 ,h&some          

brocades1 s(t1 elegant silks1 wooll5    
textures1 & velvets are  em95tly        
suitable & becom+ to wom5 :o are gr[+   
old4    ,black1 & black-&-:ite1 s(t :ite
 *iffon veil$ 9 lace1  ca%m]es1 & su*   
ref9$ tissues %\ld be select$ by ^? 9 ! 
fir/ wr9kles ( y\?4 ,grays comb9$ )     
filmy :ite mat]ial1 dull  bronzes       
light5$ ) cream-t9t$ lace1 are also     
*>m+ly  appropriate4 ,pale blue veil$ 9 
*iffon is ano!r grateful  comb9ation4   
,:ite %\ld be worn m ?an x is by old    
ladies4 ,x is s sugge/ive  ( all t is   
clean1 bright1 & da9ty2 & if !re is     
any?+ an  old lady %\ld /rive to be 9 h]
 p]sonal appe>ance x is da9ty4          
,exquisite cleanl9ess is "o ( ! mo/     
necess>y attributes (  attractive old   
age1 & any texture t 9 its quality &    
color  emphasizes ! idea ( cleanl9ess   
%\ld comm5d itself to ^? 9  _! advanc$  
y\?4    ,little old ?9 wom51 l>ge ones  
too1 = t matt]1 :o are wr9kl$  &        
colorless1 %\ld n we> diamonds4 ,!      
dazzl+ :ite gems )  pitiless brilliancy 

br+ out ! pa/y look ( ! sk94 ,! s(t gl[ 
( pe>ls1 ! cl\dlike effects ( ! opal1 ! 
unobtrusive lights (  ! moon/one        
h>monize ) ! t9ts ( hair & sk9 ( ! ag$4 
,eld]ly wom5 %\ld n we> bright fl[]s on 
_! bonnets or hats4  ,fre%-look+ roses  
above a face t has lo/ its fir/         
y\?fulness  only make t fact m obvi\s4  
,=get-me-nots1 mignonettes1 c]ta9       
pretty :ite fl[]s1 ! pale/ ( p9k roses1 
or ! mo/ delicate  t9t ( yell[ veil$ )  
lace are n inappropriate = ^? :o d  n   
enjoy we>+ sombre bonnets & hats :i* are
 compos$ only (  ri*1 black textures4   
,lace clev]ly int]m+l$ ) velvet &       
jewell$ ornam5ts ( dull1 ri* %ades are  
exce$+ly effective on !  head-ge> ( !   
old4    ,^? :o are gray-hair$--& inde$  
all wom5 z !y gr[ old--%\ld  we> r$     
above _! br[s in/ead ( "u _! *9s4 ,a    
gl9t ( ri*  c>d9al velvet1 or a rosette 
( ! same aga9/ gray hair is  beautiful4 
,lace6 ,lace6 ,lace6 & /ill m ,lace = ! 
old4 ,lace is an ess5tial  to ! dress ( 
a woman m ?an =ty ye>s ( age4 ,jabots1  

ru*es1  yokes1 cascades1 ve/s1 & g[ns ( 
lace1 black or :ite1 are all =  ! old4  
,ri* lace has an exquisitely s(t5+      
effect on !  complexion4 ,?9 wom5 )     
necks t look l ! /r+s ( a viol9  %\ld   
swa!1 smo!r1 decorate1 & adorn _! ?roats
 ) lace or  gossam] fabrics t h ! same  
quality z lace4 ,^! airy  textures1 9   
:i* light & %ad[ c s beautifully %ift1  
subdue  r\ghnesses ( ! sk9 & h>%ness 9  
l9es4 ,old ,dame ,nature is !  prime    
tea*] ( ^! bewit*+ artifices4 ,note h]  
f9e effects )  mi/s & cobwebs1 ) lace-l 
moss on /urdy old oaks1 ! bloom on  !   
pea* & ! grape4 ,nature produces h] mo/ 
en*ant+ color+s  ) du/ & age4 ,laces1   
gauzes1 mulls1 *iffons1 net1 & gossam]  
?r[ ! same beautiful glam\r ov] ! face &
 !y are fit &  *>m+ accompanim5ts ( gray
 hair1 :i* is a wond]ful s(t5] (        
defective complexions & h>d facial l9es4
    ,too mu* _c be writt5 ^u ! prop]    
arrangem5t 9 ! neck-ge>  ( ! ag$4 ,!    
disfigur+ wr9kles t make _m necks       
unsightly may  be kept 9 obeyance by    

massag+4 ,no matt] :at ! fa%ion 9       
neck-ge>1 ! ag$ mu/ modify x to suit _! 
ne$s4 ,an old lady  ) a ?91 pipe-/em    
neck %\ld adopt a full ru*e & fluffy1   
s(t  coll>-b&s4 ,i _c =be> repeat+ t    
tulle z light z ?i/le  bubbles1 ei!r    
:ite or gray or black1 is exquisitely   
effective =  ?91 scrawny necks4 ,!      
fle%y1 r$ neck %\ld be s(t5$ ) p[d]  &  
discreetly veil$ 9 *emisettes ( *iffon &
 delicate net4    ,old ladies may keep 9
 ! /yle1 ?us be+ 9 ! picture ( ! h\r2  b
 x is "o ( ! div9e privileges ( age t x 
c make its own  modes4 ,absolute        
cleanl9ess1 cleanl9ess z exact+ z t     
prop]  nurses prescribe = babies1 is !  
fir/ & mo/ important factor 9  mak+ old 
age attractive4 ,ri* dress1 9 arti/ic   
colors1 s(t1 mi/y1  e/hetic1 comes next2
 !n ! idealiz+ sc>fs1 coll>s1 jabots1 & 
fi*us ( lace & tulles4 ,old p becom+ly &
 arti/ically  attir$ h ! *>m ( r>e old  
pictures4 ,if !y h s\l-illum9$  faces !y
 are preci\s ma/]pieces4                
,,*apt] ,,vii4      ,,h[ ,,m5           

,,c>icature ,,!mselves ,,) ,,_! ,,clo!s4
    ,al?\gh 9 ! dress ( man !re are few]
 possibilities ( c>icature  ?an 9 t (   
woman1 yet1 ! ma/]pieces ( creation     
frequ5tly  exagg]ate 9 a laughable--&   
sometimes a pitiable--way1 c]ta9        
physical *>act]i/ics by an injudici\s   
*oice ( clo!s4    ,z ! fa%ion 9         
hair-dress+ does n grant man ! privilege
 (  enhanc+ 8 facial attractions2 nor ( 
obscur+ 8 defects by a  becom+ly arrang$
 coiffure2 &1 z ! modes 9 neck-ge> are  
su*  t he _c modify ! blemi%es ( a      
defective complexion by  encircl+ 8     
a?letic or scrawny ?roat ) airy tulle1  
or da9ty  lace1 t ar*-idealiz] (        
pa/y-look+ faces2 & z he has =sworn     
s(t1 trail+ g>m5ts t conceal unclassic  
curves & un9spir+  l9es ( ne!r limbs1 x 
behooves him to be m exact+ly p>ticul>  
ev5 ?an woman 9 ! selection ( 8 we>+    
app>el4    ,f> be x f me1 h[ev]1 to     
rem9d man ( 8 _m limitations--9  dress4 
,t he c nev] "k ! rapture ( donn+ a     
becom+ spr+  bonnet1 nor ! pleasure (   

possess+ real lace ?+s1 nor !  s5su\s   
*>m ( be+ enwrapp$ 9 c>ess+ furs1 or    
sleazy1 silk5  g>m5ts z exquisite 9     
color & texture z beautiful1 fre% fl[]s1
  only delicate consid]ation = 8 feel+s 
con/ra9s me f  expatiat+ ^u at l5g?4    
,i w\ld r be able to rem9d him t he c   
make 8 limitations  8 advantages1 ?an   
reveal to him :at he misses 9 n be+ a   
woman4    ,to treat ( ?is important     
subject adequately & conv9c+ly1 "o  w\ld
 require ! ma/]ly disc]nm5t ( a skillful
 & accompli%$  tailor1 ! exp]i5c$ k ( a 
well-dress$ man1 & ! al]tly  critical   
p]ception ( a lov+ woman :o1 ev5 9 !    
matt] (  clo!s1 wi%es ! de>e/ ( m5 to   
h]1 to d full ju/ice to himself  & h]   
ideal ( him on all occasions4    ,al?\gh
 c]ta9 ( ! =ego+ qualifications mu/ ne$s
 be lack+1  nev]!less ?is timor\s p51 ) 
m trepidation ?an c\rage x  mu/ be      
confess$1 begs to call att5tion to a few
 obvi\s details 9  mascul9e attire t    
c>icature1 m or less1 peculi>ities 9 !  
=ms & features ( m54    ,to be sure1 9 !

 matt] ( head-ge> man is n conspicu\sly 
at !  m]cy ( burlesqu+ ribbons1 fl[]s1 &
 fea!rs1 & he has few]  opportunities   
?an wom5 to make himself ridicul\s1 yet 
a few  sugge/ions reg>d+ c]ta9 %apes (  
head-ge> = c]ta9 types (  faces1        
applicable to wom5 are equally          
applicable to him4    ,! same rule t    
applies to ! wom5 ( ! w$ge-%ap$ type (  
face  applies to ! man ( ! w$ge-%ap$    
type1 z may be se5 9 sket*es  ,nos4 #ge 
& #gf4 ,x is obvi\s t ! y\? depict$ 9   
,no4 #ge  detracts f ! manl9ess ( 8 face
 & emphasizes ! po9t$  appe>ance ( 8    
c\nt5ance by we>+ a hat ) a broad brim  
project+ ov] 8 e>s4 ,?is /yle ( hat     
appe>s m frequ5tly 9  /raw ?an 9 any o!r
 texture1 b ! effect ( a wide1 project+ 
rim is ! same 9 any mat]ial4 ,no4 #gf1 x
 is pla91 improves !  appe>ance ( !     
long1 slim-fac$ man4 ,an alp9e hat w\ld 
n be  unbecom+ to him1 ! high oval ( !  
cr[n =m+ a balance = !  l[] "p ( ! face4
    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ge             
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #gf    ,! man ) a   

pugili/ic *9 %\ld endeavor to select a  
hat t w  n make 8 heavy jaw z prom95t z 
does ! /iff d]by1 9 ,no4 #gg4           
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #gg    ,a s(t alp9e 
hat1 or "o some:at ( ! /yle ( ,no4 #gh1 
improves 8  appe>ance4 ,! high cr[n &   
wide1 gracefully roll+ brim             
c\nt]-balance ! weight & prom95ce ( !   
jaw4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #gh         
,apropos ( ! m9or details ( man's       
g>m5ts1 ! button z a feature  ( clo!s   
has nev] be5 fully done ju/ice to4 ,x is
 a su/a9+  ?+ we "k1 some?+ we c hang   
to1 fa/5 to1 & ev5 tie to4  ,t prop]ly  
plac$ buttons contribute to our m5tal   
poise &  !re=e to our physical repose1  
is h9t$ 9 t absurdly engag+  /ory1 an5t 
! sm>t boy :o 0 ! envy ( 8 spell+-class1
  because he always /ood fir/4 ,y       
rememb]1 no d\bt1 t an envi\s  b ke5-ey$
 classmate obs]v$ t ! sm>t spell] work$ 
(f 8  n]v\s appreh5siv5ess by twirl+ !  
top button ( 8 coat z he  correctly     
spell$ ^w aft] ^w1 day 9 & day out2 & h[
 !  ke5-ey$ "o play$ ! "p ( a /eal?y    

villa9 & surreptiti\sly  cut ! button (f
 ! coat4 ,& d y rememb] ! dramatic end+8
  ,h[ ! sm>t "o on ! fatal day s\ght to 
press ! button &  f9d+ x gone1 lo/ 8    
wits completely & fail$ ignom9i\sly8 ,_m
  ( u :5 we h lo/ a su/a9+ button1 h we 
n felt z  ridicul\sly helpless &        
wit-b5umb$ z ! sm>t spell]8             
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #gi    ,we all      
sub-consci\sly ackn[l$ge our dep5d5ce ^u
 buttons1 b n  _m ( u1 evid5tly1 h      
obs]v$ t ev5 buttons h a c]ta9          
possibility ( c>icature 9 !m2 & t !y may
 add to1 or detract  f1 ! appe>ance (   
manly =ms4 ,! consid]ation ( prop]ly    
plac$ buttons may seem trivial to y1 b  
if y w obs]ve sket*es  ,nos4 #gi & #hj1 
y may disc]n t a ?9 man may app>5tly    
increase  8 bread? & add a c]ta9 manly  
t\* to 8 figure1 by *ang+ !  buttons at 
! wai/-l9e ( 8 coat4 ,! buttons plac$ s 
ne>  toge!r1 9 ,no4 #gi1 really make 8  
too?pick proportions too obvi\s4  ,8    
back is made to look broad] by plac+ !  
buttons wid] ap>t1 z  %[n 9 ,no4 #hj1 & 

*ang+ ! cut ( 8 coat-tail4              
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #hj    ,t ! fat man 
may also pres5t a m attractive back to 8
 enemies  by consid]+ ! plac+ ( 8       
buttons1 may be se5 9 draw+s ,nos4  #ha 
& #hb4 ,! buttons decorat+ ,no4 #ha are 
plac$ s f> ap>t t  !y increase 9 an     
unga9ly way ! bread? ( ! back at !      
wai/-l9e4 ,if !y are plac$ ne>] toge!r1 
& ! seams graduat$  to meet !m1 !y give 
! illusion ( bett] & m desirable        
proportions1 z may be se5 9 ,no4 #hb4   
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #ha    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #hb    ,t ! ?9 man may also      
pres5t a m impos+ & broad] front to  !  
_w1 is sugge/$ 9 sket*es ,nos4 #hc &    
#hd4 ,! contract$ look  ( ! coat 9 ,no4 
#hc is some:at due to ! buttons ( 8     
d\ble-brea/$ coat be+ plac$ too closely 
toge!r4 ,! sl5d] man  :o wi%es to give !
 impression ( be+ broad-*e/$ may h !    
buttons on 8 coat plac$ a little f>!r   
ap>t ?an fa%ion may  all[1 z %[n 9 sket*
 #hd4 ,! proportions may be easily      
pres]v$ by  a c>eful adju/m5t ( !       

%\ld]-seams & ! seams "u ! arms4        
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #hc    ,illu/ration3
 ,,no4 #hd    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #he   
,! wai/-l9e is n s mu* a dang] l9e to   
man z to woman1 yet  man %\ld n :olly   
ignore 8 equator4 ,if he is long-wai/$  
he c  app>5tly balance 8 proportions by 
hav+ 8 skirt %ort5$1 z 9  ,no4 #he1 & 8 
wai/-l9e rais$ ! m]e/ bit4 ,if he is too
  %ort-wai/$ he c l5g!n 8 skirt & l[] 8 
wai/-l9e1 z  %[n 9 ,no4 #hf4 ,9 ! "o he 
escapes appe>+ too long & lanky 9  body1
 & 9 ! o!r he obscures a lack ( becom+  
in*es t t5ds  to give him a dumpy       
appe>ance4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #hf   
,if y /udy y\r fell[-m5 y w obs]ve t few
 are really  p]fectly proportion$4 ,"o  
man w h ! body ( a vik+ on !  legs ( a  
dw>f1 or "o w h ! legs ( an ,apollo     
support+ !  %ort body ( a pigmy4 ,! man 
:o has a k+ly body1 too broad 9         
proportion to 8 legs1 z %[n 9 sket* ,no4
 #hg1 %\ld endeavor to  modify 8        
physical defect by ! c>eful selection ( 
8 coats4 ,he  %\ld h 8 coats cut to give

 him z mu* l5g? ( leg z possible4  ,a   
skilful tailor w "k j :at subtle *anges 
& adju/m5ts to  make4 ,! improvem5t 9   
appe>ance & ga9 9 height is pictur$ 9   
sket* #hh4 ,! coat be+ %ort] & ! wai/ ( 
! tr\s]s be+  rais$ a trifle1 ! man's   
limbs seem long]1 :i* is an improvem5t4 
,long l9es t5d to give elegance & grace 
9 be>+4 ,ano!r ?+ =  ! too robu/ type ( 
man to consid] is ! /yle ( 8 tr\s]s4    
,no4  #hg h9ts :at he mu/ n *oose4 ,su* 
braz5 plaids only make him  appe>       
(f5sively aggressive 9 size4 ,long1 f9e 
l9es1 su* z %[n  9 ,no4 #hh1 give an    
impression ( l5g? & app>5tly less5 !    
wid?4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #hg    ,too
 long l9es1 h[ev]1 are almo/ z          
undesirable z too %ort ones4  ,ov]-tall1
 ?9 m5 sometimes make !mselves look l   
telegraph poles  or flag/affs by we>+   
%ort coats t expose 9 a graceless way ! 
:ole l5g? ( _! limbs4 ,!y sugge/ cranes 
& o!r f[l t  give ! impression ( be+ all
 legs4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #hh    ,:5
 ! legs are proportion$ m l a /ick (    

mac>oni or a lead  p5cil ?an ! %apely   
limbs ( an ,adonis1 !y appe> exce$+ly   
funny :5 surm\nt$ by a %ort coat1 su* z 
pictur$ 9 ,no4 #hi4 ,a  fam\s g5]al 9 ! 
,civil ,w> did n despise cotton z a     
=tification to protect him f ! onslaught
 ( ! enemy4 ,!  ov]-tall1 ?9 man1 :o is 
n unsugge/ive ( a picket1 %\ld n be     
a%am$ to =tify himself ) cotton or any  
o!r sort ( padd+ t  intellig5t tailors  
keep 9 /ock4 ,he %\ld build 8 %\ld]s up 
a  bit & be g5]ally1 b mo/ c>efully &   
arti/ically1 enl>g$4 ,8  coat %\ld be   
l5g!n$1 z 9 sket* g1 to cut (f j z mu* (
  ! longness ( limb z c possibly be     
all[$ )\t de/roy+  arti/ic proportions4 
,! v tall1 ?9 man :o un?9k+ly we>s a  v 
%ort coat %\ld be brave & nev] turn 8   
back to 8 enemy4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 
#hi    ,if he we>s black & :ite *eck    
tr\s]s & a %ort blue coat1 he  %\ld     
travel ) a scre54 ,a man 9 j su* a rig  
attract$ no end  ( comm5t 9 a fa%ionable
 hotel4 ,! c>icatur+ effect ( 8  tr\s]s 
& coat 7 unspeakably comical4 ,! we>] _h

 a face z  grave z an und]tak]'s & ! air
 ( a s]i\s-m9d$ college  pr(essor2 b he 
_h ! nondescript look ( a sc>ecr[       
compos$ (  :atev] available g>m5ts c\ld 
be obta9$ f ! ca/-(f w>drobe  ( summ]   
bo>d]s 9 a f>mh\se4    ,illu/ration3    
,,no4 #ij    ,coats assur$ly h ! p[] (  
mak+ c>toons--liv+1 jocul>  c>toons--(  
_! we>]s4 ,x w\ld h>dly seem necess>y to
 call  att5tion to ! fact t a man ( huge
 dim5sions %\ld n we> a  %ort coat1 su* 
z %[n 9 sket* ,no4 #ia1 yet 8 type is   
too  frequ5tly se5 attir$ 9 ?is /yle4 ,a
 man s dress$ c]ta9ly seems  ! liv+     
exemplification ( ! def9ition ( a jug1  
namely1 a vessel  usually ) a swell+    
belly1 n>r[ m\?1 & a h&le1 = hold+      
liquors4 ,x _c be reit]at$ too (t5 t a  
l>ge1 /\t man  %\ld aim to acquire !    
di/9ction & dignity giv5 by long l9es4  
,if 8 body is proportion$ s he really   
has nei!r l5g? ( torso nor  ( limb he   
mu/ pay m att5tion to ! cut ( 8 clo!s & 
atta9  l5g? 9 :atev] arti/ic way he c4  
,! long coat1 z may be se5  9 sket* ,no4

 #ib1 n only app>5tly adds l5g? b x     
conceals too  protub]ant curves4        
,illu/ration3 ,,nos4 #ia & #ib    ,(    
c\rse1 "* c\nts f> m ?an clo!s1 we w all
 agree to  t1 b at fir/ glance x is a   
man's clo!s t impress p4  ,clo!s affect 
our behavior some:at4 ,= in/ance1 ,:5 ! 
"y  ,european emigrant1 aft] a summ]'s  
labor puts on = ! fir/ "t a  new coat1  
he puts on mu* m4 ,8 good & becom+ clo!s
 put him on  ?9k+ t he mu/ behave l p :o
 are s dress$2 &  sil5tly & /eadily 8   
behavior m5ds4 ,( c\rse1 !re is an      
uplift+ tru? 9 ,george ,h]b]t's maxim1  
,?is coat ) my discretion  w be brave1  
yet1 ,i am incl9$ to ?9k t ! majority ( 
m5 :o  w /op to consid] w agree )       
,em]son1 :o says1 ,if a man has  n firm 
n]ves & has ke5 s5sibility1 x is p]haps 
a wise economy  to g to a good %op &    
dress himself irreproa*ably4 ,he c !n   
dismiss all c>e f 8 m9d1 & may easily   
f9d t p]=mance an  addition ( confid5ce1
 a =tification t turns ! scale 9 social 
enc\nt]s1 & all[s him to g gayly into   

conv]sations :]e else he  _h be5 dry &  
emb>rass$4 ,i am n ignorant1--,i h he>d 
)  admir+ submission ! exp]i5ce ( ! lady
 :o decl>$ 't !  s5se ( be+ p]fectly    
well dress$ gives a feel+ ( inw>d       
tranquillity :i* religion is p[]less to 
be/[4'    ,a popul> clo?i] 9 ,new ,york1
 und]/&+ ?is trait ( 8  fell[-m51 voices
 ?is same s5tim5t 9 8 adv]tisem5t 9 ?is 
succ9ct way3 ,s]i\sly n[4 ,h y ev] /opp$
 to ?9k t if y  we> good clo?+ x adds   
mu* to t indep5d5t1 easy feel+ y  %\ld h
 :5 y come 9 contact ) o!r m58    ,i ?9k
 x 0 ,"l ,*e/]field :o said3 ,a man is  
receiv$ accord+  to 8 appe>ance1 &      
dismiss$ accord+ to 8 m]its4 ,!re is a  
bit ( tru? 9 ?is we w\ld all admit1 ,i h
 no d\bt1 if we /udi$  ! "q4 ,clo!s     
affect our own poise1 ease1 & attitude  
t[>d  o!rs & ! expression ( o!rs t[>d u1
 b1 aft] all1 we rely  ^u ! man or woman
 in/ead ( ^u ! impression we receive f !
  clo!s4 ,! g>m5ts1 aft] we h notic$ !m 
9 a sup]ficial way1  are *iefly int]e/+ 
to u1 because !y are ar*-betray]s ( !   

physical & m5tal poise ( ! man4 ,no     
matt] :at ! cut ( !  clo?1 no matt] :at 
ca*et ( a fa%ionable tailor a suit may  
h1  or :at its ri*ness ( mat]ial1 !     
attitude  la decad5ce ( ,no4  #ic w\ld  
make ! be/ clo!s 9 ,*ri/5dom look %abby 
&  unattractive4    ,illu/ration3 ,,no4 
#ic    ,?is too famili> c>riage ( !     
,am]ican man makes "o wi% to h  ! p[] to
 rev]se ! faces--z ,dante did ^? ( !    
false  prophets1 s ^? :o /&  la decad5ce
 might see :at ridicul\s  figures !y cut
 9 draw+-room & /reet4 ,! curv$ backs & 
r\nd$-out %\ld]s w\ld make fair-look+   
*e/s1 & ! flat  *e/s w\ld repres5t      
respectable-look+ backs4    ,a man owes 
x to ! _s )9 him n to /& or walk 9 su*  
an  attitude4 ,he %\ld brace up & keep  
brac+ up p]si/5tly1  unremitt5tly1 until
 he atta9s a m manly be>+4              
,illu/ration3 ,,no4 #id    ,! :olly     
alive fell[ pictur$ 9 sket* ,no4 #id    
w\ld make homespun  look elegant4 ,8 *e/
 is =w>d4 ,he does n sag 9 front at !   
wai/1 protrud+ 8 abdom5 9 n only an     

in>ti/ic1 b an  unheal?y mann]2 b he    
/rides ma/]fully =w>d ) an air (        
inspirit+ aliv5ess4 ,! p]fect poise ( 8 
attitude is n  unsugge/ive ( ! ,apollo  
,belv$]e--! model = all m5--a picture  (
 :i* e college boy %\ld h to place      
beside ! prettie/  girl 9 8 collection (
 pretty girls1 to con/antly rem9d him to
  c>ry himself l a "y god4