,,what ,,dress ,,makes ,,of ,,us ,by ,,dorothy ,,quigley ,illustrations by ,,annie ,,blakeslee #ahig ,i am indebted to the editors of the ,new ,york ,sun and ,new ,york ,journal for kindly allowing me to include in this book articles which ,i contributed to their respective papers4 ,,preface4 ,did you ever observe1 dear comrade1 what an element of caricature lurks in clothes8 ,a short1 round coat on a stout man seems to exaggerate his proportions to such a ridiculous degree that the profile of his manly form suggests the robust bulge of an old jug4 ,a bonnet decorated with loops of ribbon and sprays of grass1 or flowers that fall aslant1 may give a laughably tipsy air to the long face of a saintly matron of pious and conservative habits4 ,a peaked hat and tight-fitting1 long-skirted coat may so magnify the meagre physical endowments of a tall1 slender girl that she attains the lank and longish look of a bottle of hock4 ,oh6 the mocking diablery in strings1 wisps of untidy hair1 queer trimmings1 and limp hats4 ,alas6 that they should have such impish power to detract from the dignity of woman and render man absurd4 ,because of his comical attire1 an eminent ,oxford divine1 whose life and works commanded reverence1 was once mistaken for an ancient ,new ,england spinster in emancipated garments4 ,his smoothly shaven face1 framed in crinkly1 gray locks1 was surmounted by a soft1 little1 round hat1 from the up-turned brim of which dangled a broken string4 ,his long frock-coat reached to just above his loosely fitting gaiters4 ,the fluttering string1 whose only reason for being at all was to keep the queer head-gear from sailing away on the wind1 gave a touch of the ludicrous to the boyish hat which1 in its turn1 lent more drollery than dignity to the sanctified face of the old theologian4 ,who has not seen just such1 or a similar sight1 and laughed8 ,who has not1 with the generosity common to us all1 concluded these were the mistakes and self-delusions of neighbors1 relatives1 and friends1 in which we had no share8 ,i understand how it is with you4 ,i am one of you4 ,before ,i studied our common errors ,i smiled at my neighbor's lack of taste1 reconstructed my friends1 and cast contemptuous criticism upon my enemies4 ,one day ,i took a look at myself1 and realized that ,i1 too1 am laughable on unsuspected occasions4 ,the humbling knowledge of seeing myself objectively1 gave me courage to speak to the heart of you certain home truths which concern us all1 in homely language which we can all understand4 ,that you may discern the comicality and waggery in ill-chosen clothes1 ,i have endeavored to hint to you in these talks some of the ways gew-gaws and garments make game of us4 ,may you discover that your dress is not making you a laughable object2 but if1 by any chance1 you should note that your clothes are caricaturing you1 take heart4 ,enjoy the joke with the mirth that heals and heartens1 and speedily correct your mistakes4 ,the lines of your form1 the modelling of your face1 are they not worthy of your discerning thought8 ,truly6 ,whatever detracts from them detracts from sculpture1 painting1 and poetry1 and the world is the loser4 ,a word to the thinking is sufficient4 ,d4,q4 ,,contents4 ,,preface ,,chapter ,i4 ,,how ,,women ,,of ,,certain ,,types ,,should ,,dress ,,their ,,hair ,style for ,wedge-,shaped ,faces ,style for ,heavy ,jaws ,style for ,eyes ,set ,too ,high ,style for ,eyes ,set ,too ,low ,style for ,long ,faces with ,long ,noses ,for ,faces with ,protruding ,noses ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,hints ,,for ,,the ,,selection ,,of ,,becoming ,,and ,,appropriate ,,styles ,,in ,,head-,,gear ,the ,magic of the ,bonnet ,style for ,women with ,broad ,face and ,heavy ,chin ,style for ,women with ,tapering ,chin ,hat for the ,chubby ,woman ,for ,women ,who ,have ,sharp and ,prominent ,profiles ,for the ,woman with an ,angular ,face ,women ,who should ,not ,wear ,horns ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,lines ,,that ,,should ,,be ,,recognized ,,and ,,considered ,,in ,,making ,,costumes ,style for ,tall ,slender ,women ,the ,coat the ,short ,stout ,women should ,wear ,the ,cloak or ,cape for a ,tall ,women ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,how ,,plump ,,and ,,thin ,,backs ,,should ,,be ,,clothed ,,chapter ,v4 ,,corsages ,,appropriate ,,for ,,women ,,with ,,unbeautifully ,,modelled ,,throats ,,and ,,shoulders ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,hints ,,on ,,dress ,,for ,,elderly ,,women ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,how ,,men ,,caricature ,,themselves ,,with ,,their ,,clothes ,,what ,,dress ,,makes ,,of ,,us4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,how ,,women ,,of ,,certain ,,types ,,should ,,dress ,,their ,,hair4 ,the pleasing1 but somewhat audacious statement of the clever writer who asserted1 ,in the merciful scheme of nature1 there are no plain women1 is not as disputable as it may seem4 ,honest husbands1 to be sure1 greet the information with dissenting guffaws2 gay deceivers reflect upon its truth by gallantly assenting to it1 with a mocking little twinkle in their eyes2 and pretty women1 upon hearing it1 remark sententiously ,blind men and fools may think so4 ,discerning students of womankind1 however1 know that if every woman would make the best of her possibilities1 physically1 mentally1 and spiritually1 it would be delightfully probable that in the merciful scheme of nature there need be no plain women4 ,have we not ,lord ,chesterfield's word for it1 that ,no woman is ugly when she is dressed8 ,it is no unworthy study to learn to make the best of1 and to do justice to1 one's self4 ,apropos of this1 to begin--where all fascinating subjects should begin--at the head1 it behooves every woman who wishes to appear at her best1 to study the modelling of her face that she may understand both its defective and perfect lines4 ,by a proper arrangement of her hair a woman can do much to obscure or soften her bad features1 and heighten the charm of her good ones4 ,romancers have written1 and poets have sung1 of the bewitchment in nut-brown locks1 golden tresses1 and jetty curls4 ,every woman1 if so inclined1 may prove for herself the transfiguring effect in a becoming coiffure4 ,in fact1 the beauty of a woman's face and her apparent age are greatly affected by the way she wears her hair4 ,a most important detail that too few consider1 is1 the proper direction in which to comb the hair4 ,women literally toss their tresses together without any attention to the natural inclination of the individual strands or fibres4 ,they comb their hair against the grain4 ,those who do so never have beautifully and smoothly arranged coiffures4 ,each little hirsute filament has a rebellious tendency to go in the direction nature intended it should1 and refuses to stay where it is put1 giving the head in consequence1 an unkempt and what is termed an unladylike appearance4 ,the criss-cross effect resulting from combing and arranging the hair contrary to the grain is conspicuously apparent in the coiffure of no less a personage than ,eleanora ,duse1 who1 as may be seen from the picture1 pays little attention to the natural tendency of the dark tresses that cover her shapely head4 ,the bang has the dishevelled appearance of a pile of jack-straws4 ,the side-locks instead of being combed or brushed to follow the contour of the head1 fall loosely and fly in opposite directions4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #b ,the difference in appearance between the women of the smart sets in ,america and those of less fashionable circles is due1 in a great measure1 to the beautifully dressed coiffures of the former4 ,a hair-dresser arranges1 at least once a week1 the hair of the modish woman if her maid does not understand the art of hair-dressing4 ,many women of the wealthy world have their maids taught by a ,french coiffeur4 ,a wise woman will adopt a prevailing mode with discretion1 for1 what may be essentially appropriate for one1 may be fatally inappropriate for another4 ,in adjusting her crown of glory a woman must consider the proportions of her face4 ,she should be able to discern whether her eyes are too near the top of her head or1 too far below2 whether she has a square or wedge-shaped chin2 a lean1 long face1 or a round and bountifully curved one4 ,she should be alert to her defects and study never to emphasize nor exaggerate them4 ,why1 through stupidity or carelessness1 make a cartoon of yourself1 when with a proper appreciation of your possibilities you can be a pleasing picture8 ,it is just as glorious to be a fine picture or a poem as it is to paint the one1 or write the other4 ,indeed1 a woman who harmoniously develops the best within her has the charm of an exquisite poem and inspires poets to sing2 and if by the grace and beauty of her dress she enhances her natural endowments and makes herself a pleasing picture1 the world becomes her debtor4 ,in the important matter of becomingly arranging the hair1 the following sketches and suggestions may hint to bright1 thinking1 women what styles to choose or avoid4 ,for ,wedge-,shaped ,faces4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #c ,illustration3 ,,no4 #d ,the least-discerning eye can see that the wedge-,shaped face ,no4 #c is caricatured1 and its triangular proportions made more evident1 by allowing the hair to extend in curls or a fluffy bang on either side of the head4 ,women with delicately modelled faces with peaked chins should avoid these broad effects above their brows4 ,it is obvious in the sketch ,no4 #d1 that the wedge-shaped face is perceptibly improved by wearing the hair in soft waves1 or curls closely confined to the head and by arranging a coil or high puff just above and in front of the crown4 ,this arrangement gives a desirable oval effect to the face1 the sharp prominence of the chin being counteracted by the surmounting puffs4 ,for ,heavy ,jaws4 ,it may readily be seen that a woman with the square1 heavy-jawed face pictured by ,no4 #e1 should not adopt a straight1 or nearly straight1 bang1 nor wear her hair low on her forehead1 nor adjust the greater portion of her hair so that the coil cannot be seen above the crown of her head4 ,the low bang brings into striking relief all the hard lines of her face and gives the impression that she has pugilistic tendencies4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #e ,to insure artistic balance to her countenance1 and bring out the womanly strength and vital power of her face1 her hair should be arranged in coils1 puffs1 or braids that will give breadth to the top of her head as shown by ,no4 #f4 ,a fluffy1 softly curled bang adds grace to the forehead and gives it the necessary broadness it needs to lessen and lighten the heaviness of the lower part of the face4 ,a bow of ribbon1 or an aigrette of feathers1 will add effectively the crown of braids or puffs which a wise woman with a square jaw will surmount her brow if she wishes to subdue the too aggressive1 fighting qualities of her strong chin4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #f ,for ,short ,faces4 ,the sisterhood who have short1 chubby faces should1 in a measure1 observe certain rules that apply in a small degree to those who have heavy chins4 ,as may be observed even with a casual glance1 the little short-faced woman depicted by ,no4 #g1 causes her round facial disk to appear much shorter than it really is by allowing her hair to come so far down on her forehead4 ,she further detracts from her facial charms by wearing water-waves4 ,water-waves are scarcely to be commended for any type of face1 and they are especially unbecoming to the woman who is conspicuously roly-poly4 ,the round eyes1 knobby nose1 and round mouth are brought into unattractive distinctness by being re-duplicated in the circular effects of the hair4 ,this mode of dressing the hair makes a short face look common and insignificant4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #g ,do you not see that this type is immensely improved by the arrangement of the coiffure in ,no4 #h8 ,by combing her hair off her forehead her face acquires a look of alertness and intelligence1 besides being apparently lengthened4 ,she can wear her bang in soft crimps brushed back from her brow1 if this plain arrangement is too severe4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #h ,for ,eyes ,set ,too ,high4 ,a low forehead is supposed to be a sign of beauty in woman4 ,the brows of the famous ,venuses are low and broad4 ,perhaps for this reason many women wear their hair arranged low upon their foreheads4 ,whether the hair should be worn low on the brow depends chiefly on two things1--the setting of the eyes1 and the quality of the face4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #h-a_/b ,a good rule to observe is the artistic one1 to the effect that the eyes of a woman should be in the middle of her head4 ,that is1 if an imaginary line were drawn across the top of the head and another below the chin1 exactly midway between the two the eyes should be set4 ,the ,japanese type of woman should carefully observe the foregoing hint4 ,observe ,no4 #h-a_/b4 ,nature has not been artistic4 ,the eyes are too near the top of the head4 ,the defect is exaggerated and emphasized by the wearing of the hair low on the forehead4 ,in some faces of this type the face is brutalized in appearance by this arrangement4 ,the expression and whole quality of the countenance can be greatly improved by arranging the hair as shown by ,no4 #i1 which is the soft ,pompadour style4 ,the ,duchess of ,marlborough1 formerly ,consuelo ,vanderbilt1 frames her nave1 winsome face1 which is of the ,japanese type1 in a style somewhat like this4 ,her dark hair forms an aureole above her brow1 and brings into relief the dainty1 oval form of her face4 ,even simply brushing the hair off the forehead without crimp or roll will improve the appearance of this type of face and give it a better artistic balance4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #i ,illustration3 ,,no4 #aj ,for ,eyes ,set ,too ,low4 ,women whose eyes are set too far down in their faces should adopt a mode of arranging their hair exactly the opposite of those whose eyes are set too near the top of their heads4 ,it is apparent that ,no4 #aj exaggerates the distance of her eyes from the crown of her head1 and makes them appear to be set lower than they really are by building her hair high1 and by brushing her bang back so severely from her brow4 ,a bald forehead is rarely becoming to any woman4 ,a few stray curls or soft waves lend grace to even the most perfect of brows4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #aa ,by bringing the hair down over the forehead1 as suggested in ,no4 #aa1 a woman with this type of face can easily improve her appearance4 ,by this graceful arrangement her face loses the childish and sometimes stupid expression that is peculiar to the type1 as may be discerned in ,no4 #aj4 ,when the hair is properly arranged this element of childlikeness lends a certain appealing sweetness not unattractive even in the faces of matured matrons4 ,by dressing the hair low so the coil does not appear above the crown1 as in ,no4 #aa1 the eyes are apparently properly placed4 ,for ,long ,faces with ,long ,noses4 ,the woman who wears her silken tresses arranged on either side of her head1 draped like curtains from a central parting1 is to be envied if she can do it and yet look young and pretty4 ,she is the ,madonna type and seems to possess all the attributes of gentleness1 modesty1 and meekness1 and angelic sweetness that are supposed to characterize the distinctively feminine woman4 ,this is the ideal style of coiffure much bepraised by man1 because1 according to a bright modern ,amazon1 it makes a woman look so meek4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ab ,the only type to which it is really becoming is the ,italian4 ,the type with matte complexion1 soft eyes1 finely chiselled nose1 and delicately oval chin1 look ideally sweet and feminine with the hair arranged la ,madonna4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ac ,long faces of the form pictured by ,no4 #ab exaggerate the longness and leanness of their faces by wearing their locks like looped curtains4 ,a long nose with two long lines on either side of the cheek seems longer than it is1 as the observer may discern three lines instead of only the nasal one1 and the impression of longness is emphasized4 ,not only is the length of the countenance made more noticeable1 but years and years are apparently added to the actual age4 ,that ,no4 #ac1 which shows a parting and soft waves that do not come below the ears1 is to be preferred by a woman whose features are of this character need hardly be explained4 ,the improvement in looks is quite obvious4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #ad ,,and #ae ,no4 #ad is an example of a misguided woman of the pudgy type who1 for some inexplicable reason1 arranges her hair in the ,madonna style4 ,it is utterly unsuited to her face4 ,unless her ears are deformed this style of hirsute lambrequins should not be worn by a full1 round-faced woman4 ,the arrangement sketched in ,no #ae adds effectively to her appearance1 not only making her look younger1 but less inane4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #af ,for ,faces with ,protruding ,noses4 ,women with decidedly protruding1 or irregular1 tip-tilted noses should be especially careful in arranging their coiffures4 ,any woman who arranges her hair as in sketch ,no4 #af caricatures her facial defects by increasing the too protuberant lines of her nose4 ,the distance from the end of her nose and the tip of the topmost knot of hair is too long for either beauty or intelligence4 ,the shape of her head acquires idiotic proportions1 and her nose is placed entirely out of drawing and is obtrusively conspicuous when seen in profile4 ,this type of woman is generally classified among the inquisitive1 bright1 and energetic4 ,she should aim to modify the unhappy angularity of her profile as well as to repress her gossipy tendencies4 ,the graduated coil of hair and waved coiffure1 shown by ,no4 #ag1 are most felicitous in their effect on this type of face4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ag ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ah ,no4 #ah reveals an error in an opposite direction4 ,the snubbed-nose girl1 by fixing her hair in a bun-like coil1 gives the impression that her coiffure is held by invisible strings by her nose1 which gets a more elevated look than it otherwise would have1 because of the bad angle at which the coil is placed4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ai ,no4 #ai1 which is a picturesque variation of the popular coif1 manifestly improves this type of face1 and makes the nose appear less obtrusive4 ,a woman should carefully study the contour of her head from every side2 the modelling of her face2 the length and inclination of her nose2 the setting of her eyes2 and the breadth and form of her brow1 and adopt a becoming coiffure that will give artistic balance to her face1 and never absolutely change the style whatever the mode in hair-dressing may be4 ,in ,england1 the court hair-dresser years ago studied the character of the head and face of the ,princess of ,wales1 and designed a coiffure for her which she has never varied until recently2 then she merely arranged her fringe lower down on her forehead than she has ever worn it before4 ,the general style1 however1 she preserves intact1 and wears her hair1 and has for many years1 as is shown in the picture--,no4 #bj4 ,her daughters1 who have faces the same shape as hers1 dress their coiffures similarly4 ,in never changing the style of arranging her hair1 the ,princess of ,wales owes in no small degree her apparent air of youthfulness4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bj ,,no ,,matter ,,what ,,the ,,prevailing ,,style ,,these ,,rules ,,may ,,be ,,practically ,,applied4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,hints ,,for ,,the ,,selection ,,of ,,becoming ,,and ,,appropriate ,,styles ,,in ,,head-,,gear4 ,closely allied to the subject of hair-dressing is that of head-gear4 ,indeed many of the hints regarding appropriate coiffures for certain styles of faces are equally applicable to the selection of suitable hats and bonnets4 ,the choosing of millinery is the more momentous of the two1 of course1 for ,i need scarcely remind you that ,nature left us no choice in hair4 ,no matter what its color or texture we desire to keep it and if we are wise we will make the best of it4 ,in regard to hats we are personally responsible and our follies are upon our own heads4 ,the power of caricature being greater in hats than in hair-dressing1 is it not fit that we should give careful and intelligent consideration to the selection of our millinery that the ugly lines in our otherwise beautiful faces may not be at the mercy of mocking bunches of ribbons1 comically tilted straws1 or floppy bits of lace8 ,the ,magic of ,the ,bonnet4 ,once upon a time1 ,i think that was the exact date1 there was a man distinguished in a certain kingdom as the ugliest person in the realm4 ,according to a blithe romancer1 he was so distinctively unpleasing in form and feature that he challenged the attention of the king who1 in whimsical mood1 made him a royal retainer4 ,the man so conspicuously lacking in beauty enjoyed his eminent position and privileges for some time4 ,but even ugliness1 if it attain distinction1 will excite envy in the low-minded4 ,a former associate of the unbeautiful man in invidious temper brought the news one day to the king1 that there was an old woman in his domain that was uglier than the lowly-born man who by kingly favor held so high a place4 ,bring her to the court4 ,judges shall be called to decide4 ,if she is uglier she shall stay and he shall go1 was the royal mandate4 ,when the old woman appeared she was easily decided to be by far the uglier of the two4 ,at the critical moment when the king was upon the eve of dismissing the man from his retinue1 a friend of the unfortunate shouted1 ,put her bonnet on him6 ,this was done1 and lo6 a fearful change was wrought4 ,by unanimous acclamation he was declared to be the ugliest creature on earth4 ,the old woman1 true to the instincts of her sex1 refused to wear her bonnet again4 ,like many of her sisters of modern times1 she had not before discovered the possibilities in a bonnet to enhance the beauty of the face or decrease its charms4 ,if woman could see themselves objectively1 as did the old woman1 they would keenly realize the necessity of considering the lines of hat or bonnet in relation to those of their faces1 and would learn to obscure defects and bring into prominence their prettiest features4 ,as there are a few rules to govern what each type should select1 every one of the fair sisterhood has an equal opportunity to improve her appearance by selecting in the millinery line the distinctive adornment suited to her individual style4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bb ,for ,women with ,broad ,face and ,heavy ,chin4 ,by a curious law of contrariety the woman with a broad1 heavy chin seems to have an ungovernable penchant for trig little round bonnets1 or trim turbans with perky aigrettes1 like that in sketch ,no4 #bb4 ,by obeying this wilful preference she obscures whatever delicacy may be in the modelling of her features and brings into conspicuous relief the ugliest lines of her face4 ,her chin is apparently increased in heaviness and the broadness of her face is made prominent4 ,she could easily have restored the artistic balance to her facial lines by wearing a large hat1 rather heavily trimmed1 as in ,no4 #bc1 thus effectively modifying the strong curves of the chin and signally improving her appearance4 ,if a woman's face is fairly proportioned1 not too short for its breadth1 and she can not afford plumes1 this type of woman can still give a becoming balance to her face by adopting hats that are trimmed with flamboyant bows that flare horizontally across the hat1 diverging from a central knot in the from4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bc ,for the ,woman with ,tapering ,chin4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bd ,the woman who is the exact opposite of the type with the ample lower jaw1 but whose chief disadvantage lies in her broad1 manly brow and tiny tapering chin1 should avoid all horizontal trimmings1 bows or broad hat-brims4 ,it is clear1 in ,no4 #bd1 that such trimmings increase the wedge-like appearance of the face and give it the grotesque suggestion of an ordinary flower-pot in which grows a sickly plant4 ,this type can perceptibly improve upon nature by choosing the style of hat and neck-gear shown by ,no4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #be ,the crinkly ovals that form the brim of the hat1 and the soft1 graceful arrangement of the hair in front that decreases the too broad effect of the brow1 and the full fluffy ruff snuggled up closely to the chin1 produce a pleasing transformation of the meagre-looking original that to the uninitiated seems little short of magical4 ,the broad1 cravat-like bows1 and the flaring ones known as incroyables1 were beneficently wedge-like faces and throats that have lost the seductive curves of youth4 ,hat for the ,chubby ,woman4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bf ,that amiable type of woman formed conspicuously upon the circular plan often unconsciously impresses the fact of her fatal tendency to rotundity by repeating the roundness of her globular eyes1 the disk-like appearance of her snub nose and the circle of her round mouth1 and the fulness of her face by wearing a little1 round hat in the style portrayed by ,no4 #bf4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bg ,the curls of her bang1 the feathers in her hat1 the high collar of her jacket make more significant the fact that her lines are not artistic and that her face is unbeautifully round4 ,she can enhance her charms and apparently decrease the too spherical cut of her countenance by adopting the mode illustrated in ,no4 #bg4 ,the angular bows on the hat1 the geometric lines of the broad hat-brim1 the precise cut of the lapels on the corsage1 the neat throat-band and ,v-shaped vesture--all insinuate in a most engaging way a dignity and fine1 high-bred poise totally obliterated by the circular style of dress erroneously adopted by the misguided woman in ,no4 #bf4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bh ,for ,women ,who ,have ,sharp and ,prominent ,profiles4 ,in buying a hat many of the unfair sex--as the modern wag dubs the progressive sisters who wish to have all man's rights and privileges and keep their own besides--never seem to consider their heads but from a front point of view4 ,in consequence1 as sketch ,no #bh hints1 a head seen from the side frequently appears1 if not idiotically1 very inartistically1 proportioned4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #bi ,occasionally a hat presents as comical an effect in a from as in a side view1 as may be seen in ,no4 #bi4 ,the wearer was an elderly woman with gray hair which hung down in a half-curled bang on either side of her thin face4 ,her hat which was simply dripping with feathers suggested a fanciful letter ,t and exaggerated the thinness of her face in a remarkably funny way4 ,the feathers overhanging the brim increased the broadness of the hat1 and looked singularly waggish fluttering against the spriggy-looking projections of gray hair4 ,the rules for the wedge-shaped face1 as may readily be discerned1 apply here4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #cj ,,and #ca ,women who have sharp and prominently outlined profiles have a curious tendency to choose hats1 the brims of which project too far forward in front1 and turn up too abruptly and ungracefully in the back4 ,as shown in ,no4 #cj the protruding brim gives the head and face the unattractive proportions of the capital letter ,f4 ,the length of the nose is emphasized by the line of the hat-rim above it and it appears unduly obtrusive4 ,the flat arrangement of the hair and the curve of the hat-brim in the back also exaggerate the obtrusive qualities of the features4 ,by choosing a hat somewhat similar to the one sketched in ,no4 #ca1 the unattractive sharpness of the profile is modified1 and the alert1 agreeable quality of the face1 that was obscured by the shelf-like brim1 becomes apparent4 ,the observer feels1 if he does not voice it1 that it is a progressive spirit advancing forward instead of an ungainly head-piece that looks like a curious trowel4 ,for the ,woman with an ,angular ,face4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #cb ,,and #cc ,the woman with the angular features presented in ,no4 #cb should not wear a sailor-hat or any hat with a perfectly straight rim4 ,the sailor-hat or any style bordering on it should be selected with utmost discrimination4 ,this mode is unbecoming to a woman more than forty2 or1 to one who through grief or worry prematurely attains a look of age1 or to one whose features are irregular4 ,the straight brim across the face is very trying4 ,it casts a shadow deepening the old marks and instead of being a frame to set off1 it seems to cut off1 the face at an inartistic angle4 ,the woman with angular features1 as may be seen by ,no4 #cc1 can wear with impunity1 and always should wear1 a hat the brim of which is waved1 turned1 twisted1 or curved in graceful lines4 ,the uneven brim of her hat makes an effective complement to the angularity of her chin1 which is further softened by the feathery ruff that encircles her throat4 ,the curves of the ostrich plumes1 and the studied carelessness of the arrangement of her coiffure1 subdue the angles of her face which are brought out in unbecoming prominence by the sailor-hat4 ,women ,who should ,not ,wear ,horns4 ,the velvet horns on either side of a hat1 the steeple-like central adornments that were once much in favor1 and the ,mercury wings that ornament the coiffure for evening dress1 produce some startling1 disagreeable1 and amusing effects not altogether uninteresting to consider4 ,faces in which the eyes are set too near the forehead acquire a scared look by being surmounted by a bonnet upon which the trimming gravitates to a point in an arrangement not unsuggestive of a reversed fan1 horns1 or a steeple4 ,the most unpleasing developments result from the wearing of the horn-like trimmings either in velvet or jet4 ,if the face above which they flare has less of the spiritual than the coarse propensities in it1 the grotesque turns and twists in the head-gear emphasize the animality in the lines characteristic of low-bred tendencies1 and the whole countenance is vulgarized4 ,one face acquires the look of a fox1 another of a certain type of dog1 and so on4 ,the most amusing exaggerations of distinctive facial lines are produced by ,mercury wings4 ,the good-natured woman of the familiar type depicted in ,no4 #cd brings every bovine attribute of her placid countenance into conspicuous relief by surmounting her face with the wings of the fleet-footed god4 ,the cow-like form and serenity of her features are made laughably obvious4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #cd ,short1 delicately-faced women can adorn their coiffures with ,mercury wings with most charming results4 ,wings1 or perpendicular bows1 add length to the lines of the short face1 giving it a certain suggestion of refinement and distinction that is wholly destroyed by the wearing of any trimmings that show at the sides4 ,,no ,,matter ,,what ,,the ,,prevailing ,,style ,,these ,,rules ,,may ,,be ,,practically ,,applied4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,lines ,,that ,,should ,,be ,,recognized ,,and ,,considered ,,in ,,making ,,costumes4 ,mme4 ,la ,mode1 much misrepresented as are all who are embarrassed with world-wide popularity always considers when designing fashions that women vary in form1 as in mood4 ,she suits all needs1 although this fact has never been cast to her credit4 ,with a beautiful sense of adjustment--as obvious as that in ,nature1 that projects the huge watermelon to ripen on a slender vine on the ground and swings a greengage plum on the stout stem of a tree to mature in storm or shine--,mme4 ,la ,mode1 arbiter of styles1 balances her fashions4 ,never came the big hat without the small bonnet4 ,accompanying the long cloak is the never-failing short cape4 ,side by side may be found the long coat and the short1 natty jacket4 ,this equilibrium in wearing apparel may be traced through all the vagaries of fashion4 ,everybody's need has been considered1 but everybody has not considered her need4 ,the short1 stout woman passes by the long coat better adapted to her and seizes a short jacket--a homeopathic tendency of like suiting like1 sometimes efficacious in medicine1 but fatal in style4 ,style for ,tall ,slender ,woman4 ,the very tall1 slender woman frequently ignores a jaunty jacket and takes a long coat like that shown in ,no4 #cf4 ,to even the sluggish fancy of an unimaginative observer she suggests a champagne bottle1 and to the ready wit she hints of no end of amusing possibilities for caricature4 ,the very tall woman should know that long lines from shoulder to foot give height1 and she must discerningly strive to avoid length of line in her garments until she dons the raiment of the angels4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #cf ,,and #cg ,horizontal lines crossing the figure seem to decrease height1 and should be used as much as possible in the arranging and trimming of the tall woman's garments4 ,by selecting a shorter coat equally modish1 as shown by ,no4 #cg1 the too tall woman shortens her figure perceptibly4 ,the belt cuts off from her height in a felicitous way1 and the collar1 also horizontal1 materially improves the size of her throat4 ,the high collar1 such as finishes the coat1 in ,no4 #cf1 adds to the length4 ,those who have too long arms can use horizontal bands on sleeves most advantageously4 ,the ,coat the ,short ,stout ,woman should ,wear4 ,the short jacket that so graciously improved the appearance of the slender specimen of femininity is sinister in its effect on the short1 stout woman1 in sketch ,no4 #ch4 ,it should be the study of her life to avoid horizontal lines4 ,length of limb is to be desired because it adds distinction4 ,her belt1 the horizontal effect of the skirt of the jacket1 the horizontal trimming of the bottom of the skirt1 all apparently shortening her height1 tend to make her ordinary and commonplace in appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #ch ,,and #ci ,if her hips are not too pronounced she can wear the long coat1 shown in picture ,no4 #ci4 ,the ,v-shaped vesture gives her a longer waist1 and the long lines of the revers add to the length of her skirt4 ,if her hips are too prominent1 she should avoid having any tight-fitting garments that bring the fact into relief4 ,she should not wear the long coat1 but she can effectively modify it to suit her needs1 by only having a skirt1 or tabs1 or finishing straps in the back4 ,if her jacket or basque is finished off with a skirt effect1 it is best to have the little skirt swerve away just at the hip-line1 half revealing and half concealing it4 ,the front should be made in a jacket effect1 finishing just at the waist-line and opening over a blouse front that will conceal the waist-line4 ,it is best for the too short1 stout woman to obscure her waist-line as much as possible1 to apparently give her increase of height4 ,to put the waist-line high up adds to length of limb1 and1 of course1 is to be desired1 but the fact that what is added below is taken from above the waist1 should impel careful discrimination in the arrangement of this equatorial band4 ,the ,cloak or ,cape for a ,tall ,woman4 ,the long circular cloak is another graceful garment that can be worn with charming effect by the woman of classic height1 but should never be in the wardrobe of a very tall woman except for use at the opera1 when its service is chiefly required in the carriage1 or when its wearer is sitting4 ,it is so obvious1 in sketch ,no4 #dj1 that the vertical lines the folds of the cloak naturally fall into give a steeple-like appearance to the tall woman it enfolds1 that it is scarcely necessary to comment upon it4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #dj ,that her judicious selection should have been the short cape1 which comes1 as all capes should1 to be artistic1 well below the elbows1 is clearly illustrated in picture ,no4 #da4 ,the horizontal trimming very becomingly plays its part in the generally improving effect4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #da ,the one who can wear the long cloak in an unchallengeable manner is the short1 stout woman1 shown in sketch ,no4 #db4 ,by wearing the short cape with circular1 fluffy collarette1 sketched in ,no4 #dc1 she gives herself the look of a smothered1 affrighted ,cochin ,china chicken2 or1 as an imaginative school-girl remarked of her mother who wore a cape of similar style1 she looks as if her neck were encircled by bunches of asparagus4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #db ,,and #dc ,the military dignity she acquires by wearing the long cape is becoming to a degree1 and gives her distinction in form4 ,by remembering that horizontal trimmings apparently decrease the height1 and that vertical lines add to it1 those who desire to appear at their best will use discernment in dividing their basques with yokes1 or corsage mountings at the bust-line or frills at the hip-line4 ,a flounce on the corsage at the bust-line1 another at the hip-line1 and yet another at the bottom of the shirt1 increases the impression of bulkiness most aggressively and gives a barrel-like appearance to the form of a stout woman that is decidedly funny1 as may be seen in sketch ,no4 #dd4 ,a study of the lines of the form will not only aid one in adopting a more becoming style of dress1 but will sharpen the artistic perceptions1 thus adding to the joy of life4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #dd ,a beautiful form is better than a beautiful face and should be clothed so that its lines may appear at their best1 and not be exaggerated and caricatured4 ,the figure is seen many more times than the face1 and the defects of the former are more conspicuous than those of the latter4 ,do not be unjust to your beautiful body1 the temple of your soul2 above all1 do not caricature it by selecting your clothes with indiscriminating taste4 ,,no ,,matter ,,what ,,the ,,prevailing ,,mode ,,these ,,rules ,,may ,,be ,,practically ,,applied4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,how ,,plump ,,and ,,thin ,,backs ,,should ,,be ,,clothed4 ,she was from the middle-,west1 and despite the fact that she was married1 and that twenty-one half-blown blush roses had enwreathed her last birthday cake1 she had the alert1 quizzical brightness of a child who challenges everybody and everything that passes with the countersign--,why8 ,she investigated ,new ,york with unabashed interest1 and1 like many another superior provincial1 she freely expressed her likes and dislikes for its traditions1 show-places1 and people with a commanding and amusing audacity4 ,her objections were numerous4 ,the chief one that made a deep impression upon her metropolitan friends was her disapproval of ,sarah ,bernhardt's acting4 ,the middle-,westerner1 instead of becoming ecstatic in her admiration1 and at a loss for adjectives at the appearance of the divine ,sarah1 merely perked at the great ,french artist for some time and then demanded1 querulously3 ,what's the matter with her8 ,why does she play so much with her back to the audience8 ,i don't like it4 ,it was a shock to the adorers of ,sarah ,bernhardt to hear her so irreverently criticised4 ,they loyally united in her defence1 and sought to squelch the revolter by loftily explaining that the actress turned her back so often to the audience because she had such a noble1 generous nature and desired to give the other actors a chance4 ,she lets them take the centre of the stage1 as they say in the profession1 remarked one of the party1 who prided herself upon being versed in the argot of the theatre4 ,but she plays with her back to the audience when she is speaking and acting1 and everybody else on the stage is still but herself1 petulantly insisted the ,western ,philistine1 showing no signs of defeat4 ,the situation was not wholly agreeable4 ,the worshippers of ,sarah could say nothing more in justification of her turning her back on them1 but1 with true feminine logic1 concluded1 ,if ,sarah ,bernhardt turns her back on the audience it is right1 and that is all there is to say4 ,just at this dramatic moment a voice from the adjoining row providentially interposed4 ,the voice belonged to a well-known exponent of physical culture1 who was never so happy as when instructing the intellectually needy4 ,she said3 ,i will tell you why she plays with her back towards the audience more than any other actress upon the stage to-day4 ,the middle-,westerner1 no less impressed than her metropolitan friends1 listened eagerly4 ,the exponent of straight backs and high chests explained didactically3 ,the back is wonderfully expressive2 indeed it is full of vital expression4 ,bernhardt knows this better than any other actress because she has studied statuary with the passion of a sculptor1 and because she understands that1 not only the face1 but the entire physical structure1 is capable of expressing dramatic emotions4 ,strong feeling and action may be strikingly revealed by the back4 ,imprecations1 denunciations1 even prayers1 seem to be charged with more force when an actress delivers them with her back turned1 or half-turned to the audience4 ,bernhardt's back expresses a storm of fury when she imprecates vengeance1 said the voice of authority4 ,not only on the stage is the expression of the back discernible1 and a knowledge of its character valuable1 but in every-day life in drawing-room and street4 ,how many women consider their backs when they dress8 ,look at the backs here deformed by laces and fallals1 she went on contemptuously4 ,the majority of women never look below their chins and ,i believe not one in ten ever looks thoughtfully at her back1 she said emphatically4 ,the dramatic value of a well-poised1 expressive back may only concern the thousands of young women who are aspiring to be a ,sarah ,bernhardt or a ,rachel2 but a knowledge of what constitutes a properly and artistically clothed back should be of interest to all women in civilized countries4 ,that there is much truth in the assertion that the majority of women never look below their chins1 and not one in ten ever looks thoughtfully at her back1 every observer of womankind might testify4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #de ,the open placket-hole and sagging waist-band1 sketched in ,no4 #de1 is an all too familiar sight that advertises the fact that too few women take even a cursory look at their backs4 ,fathers and brothers who wish to protect their womankind from adverse criticism frequently give impromptu lectures upon this very subject1 as this slovenly arrangement of skirt and basque is not only seen in ,grand ,street1 ,second ,avenue1 and equally unfashionable quarters1 but in ,fifth ,avenue where the modish set are en vidence4 ,if the dainty safety-pin displayed in ,no4 #df1 goes out of vogue1 the time-honored custom of sewing hooks to the waist-band of the dress1 is always in fashion4 ,indeed1 many women prefer this way of connecting separate skirt and waist to using a conspicuous pin4 ,this is almost too trivial a detail to discourse upon1 but it is as true that details make dress as it is that trifles make life--and neither life nor dress is a trifle4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #df ,the offence in ,no4 #de is more the result of untidiness than of a lack of artistic discrimination4 ,nos4 #df-a_/b and #dg1 on the contrary1 outrage the laws of art1 and display ignorance of the value and beauty of lines4 ,no4 #df-a_/b might serve to conceal a deformity of the shoulders4 ,that really seems its only excuse for being4 ,the full1 ugly1 straight pleat that falls to just below the waist-line lends neither grace nor style to the figure4 ,it is too short to give the distinction and dignity that handsome wraps with long lines almost invariably do1 although they seem to add age to the form4 ,there is a hint of youth in this ungraceful jacket to be sure1 but it is not especially attractive in its suggestion of youthfulness4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #df-a_/b ,illustration3 ,,no4 #dg ,no4 #dg1 with a line at the neck-band1 crossed bands in the centre of the shoulders1 and lines across the back1 is obviously inartistic4 ,the back of a ,venus1 even1 would be detracted from by such criss-crossed effects4 ,happy the woman who has so shapely a back she can afford to allow her waist to fit smoothly and plainly1 unbroken by any conspicuous lines4 ,if bands must be used to remedy the deficiencies of ungenerous ,nature1 let them be at the neck and waist2 and if the back is unconscionably long1 a band1 or fold1 or ruffle across the shoulders is to be commended4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #dh ,no4 #dh reveals a glaring error frequently made by the thin sisterhood4 ,a tall1 slender woman with a long waist1 should not emphasize her length of lines by wearing pointed or ,v-shaped effects4 ,the ,v-shaped arrangement1 either in cut or trimmings1 apparently increases her longness and leanness4 ,she should aim to shorten her waist instead of lengthening it as the basque finished with a point obviously does4 ,the drooping sleeves elongate her shoulder-lines1 and bring into clearer relief her meagre proportions4 ,she can easily improve her appearance by adopting either style of gown portrayed by ,nos4 #di1 or #ej4 ,the broad belt at the waist-line in ,no4 #di1 and the flamboyant lace or braided piece that adorns the shoulders1 perceptibly adds to her breadth and decreases her length4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #di ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ej ,no4 #ej is a felicitous cut for a street dress for a slim sister4 ,the jaunty bloused waist smartly conceals deficiencies in fine points4 ,the tall1 thin sisterhood should eschew pointed effects and study to attain apparent breadth by using trimmings arranged horizontally4 ,bands of velvet1 braid in waved lines1 ruffles1 and not too deeply cut scallops1 may be used effectively by the very slender1 who sometimes appear as if they are without form and void1 as the earth was in the beginning4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ea ,no4 #ea is an exposition of the mistake made by the sturdy sisterhood of stout and pendulous proportions4 ,it is plain to be seen that the fluffy ruche at the throat-band1 and the ruffle at the shoulder1 and the spreading bow at the waist1 and the trimmed sleeves1 add bulkiness to a form already too generously endowed with flabby rotundity4 ,corpulent women must forego the swagger little basques or any sort of short1 flounced effects below the waist-line4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #eb ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ec ,nos4 #eb and #ec are eminently adapted to the matron of ample dimensions4 ,one observer of beauty-giving effects has not unadvisedly called the waist-line the danger-line4 ,a stout sister1 above all others1 should not accentuate the waist-line4 ,she should conceal it as much as possible4 ,the coat back of ,no4 #eb apparently lengthens the waist4 ,the same effect is produced by the arrangement of ribbons in ,no4 #ec1 and by the long-pointed basque4 ,v-shaped effects and long-pointed basques are as becoming to those burdened with flesh as they are unbecoming to tall1 thin women4 ,long1 graceful folds and draperies are admirable for the stout sisterhood1 who should avoid short sacques and tight-fitting garments that give the on-looker an uncomfortable impression2 there is too much in a small space4 ,very light colors and thin textures that billow and float should be eschewed by the large1 fleshy woman who wishes to give the impression that she possesses the lines of a finely modelled statue4 ,she should avoid puffs and any suggestion of the pulpy and clumsy1 and be careful not to sub-divide the body of her dress by plaits or braids laid on horizontally across or above the bust1 or below the hips4 ,horizontal lines invariably decrease the height2 for that reason stout women should not wear dresses cut square in the neck1 but should adhere to the graceful ,v-or heart-shaped cut which has a tendency to give length4 ,the rotund woman with a short waist1 sketched in ,no4 #ed1 may improve her figure1 as shown in ,no4 #ee1 by choosing belts and collars the exact shade of her shirt-waists in summer1 and by not cutting off her height by any sort of outside belt on winter gowns4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ed ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ee ,tall1 stout women should forego high heels on their shoes1 high hats1 and striped dresses4 ,although stripes increase the effect of height1 they also add to that of breadth4 ,a plain cloth basque and skirt of striped material make a happy compromise and can be worn with becoming effect by a stout woman4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ef ,a basque cut high behind and on the shoulders apparently gives height4 ,a very stout woman should never wear double skirts or tunics or dresses with large sprawling patterns1 such as depicted by cut ,no4 #ef1 which suggests furniture stuffs4 ,a large woman who had a fancy for wearing rich brocades figured with immense floral designs was familiarly called by her kind friends the escaped sofa4 ,white1 or very light colors1 should never be worn by the stout2 they greatly increase the apparent size4 ,large plaids should also be eschewed4 ,small checks and plaids may sometimes be becoming4 ,neither the too thin nor the too stout should adopt a style of gown that caricatures the form as does the voluminous wrapper1 finished with a box-pleat1 as shown in ,no4 #eg4 ,there is no grace in straight lines4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #eg ,,and #eh ,no4 #eh1 which accentuates the height of the over-tall1 thin woman1 is better adapted to enhance the charms of a woman of finer proportions4 ,the bony and scrawny1 of the type of ,no4 #eh1 seem to have a perverse desire to wear what makes their poverty in physical charms only more conspicuous4 ,a woman of distinction in ,boston1 who is exceedingly thin and tall1 wore ,watteau pleats so frequently1 even on reception and evening gowns that she was dubbed by a wag the fire-escape1 a title which so strikingly characterized her style1 that the term was adopted by all her friends when they exchanged confidences concerning her4 ,the garment with the ,watteau pleat is not unlike the princesse gown which is a very trying style except to handsomely proportioned women4 ,a tall1 well-developed woman1 such as shown in sketch ,no4 #ei1 adorns the princesse gown and attains in it a statuesque beauty4 ,in suggesting statuary it fulfils the true ideal of dress1 which should hint of poetry1 art1 sculpture1 painting4 ,the massing of colors2 the arrangement of lines1 the quality of textures1 the grace and poise of the wearer--do not these hint of picture1 statue1 music8 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,corsages ,,appropriate ,,for ,,women ,,with ,,unbeautifully ,,modelled ,,throats ,,and ,,shoulders4 ,despite the traditional belief that a dcollet corsage is a tyrannous necessity of evening dress1 a woman not graciously endowed with a beautifully modelled throat and shoulders may1 with perfect propriety1 conceal her infelicitous lines from the derisive gaze of a critical public4 ,women are indebted to that gentle genius1 ,la ,duse1 for the suggestion that a veiled throat and bust may charmingly fulfil the requirements of evening dress1 and also satisfy that sense of delicacy peculiar to some women who have not inherited from their great-great-grandmothers the certain knowledge that a low-necked gown is absolutely decorous4 ,the women who does not possess delicate personal charms commends herself to the beauty-loving by forbearing to expose her physical deficiencies4 ,unless it is because they are enslaved by custom1 it is quite incomprehensible why some women will glaringly display gaunt proportions that signally lack the exquisite lines of firm and solid flesh4 ,a throat like a ten-stringed instrument1 surmounting square shoulders that end in knobs that obtrude above unfilled hollows1 is an unpleasing vision that looms up conspicuously too often in opera-box and drawing-room4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fa ,the unattractive exhibition #fa1 is a familiar sight in the social world4 ,how insufferably ugly such uncovered anatomy appears in the scenery of a rich and dainty music-room may be readily imagined by those who have been spared the unpleasing display4 ,it is so obvious that shoulders like these should always be covered that it seems superfluous to remark that this type should never wear any sleeve that falls below the shoulder-line4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fb ,the sleeve falling off the shoulder was invented for the classic contour1 set forth in ,no4 #fb4 ,nor ribbons1 nor lace1 nor jewel are needed to enhance the perfect beauty of a fine1 slender1 white throat1 and the felicitous curves of sloping shoulders4 ,one whose individual endowments are as meagre as are those presented in ,no4 #fa may improve her defects by adopting either style of corsage1 shown in sketches ,nos4 #fc and #fd4 ,a woman's throat may lack a certain desirable roundness1 and her shoulders may recede in awkward lines1 and yet between these defective features the curves may have a not unpleasing daintiness and delicacy in modelling that can be advantageously revealed4 ,a modish velvet throat-band1 such as is shown by ,no4 #fc1 is one of the most graceful conceits of fashion4 ,the too slim throat encircled by velvet or ornamented with a jewelled buckle or brooch is effectively framed4 ,the unsightly lines of the shoulders are covered1 and just enough individual robustness is disclosed to suggest with becoming propriety the conventional dcollet corsage4 ,the ,princess of ,wales is as constant to her velvet or pearl neck-band1 as to her especial style of coiffure4 ,her throat1 in evening dress1 never appears unadorned by one or the other of these beautiful bands that so cleverly conceal defects and seem to bring out more richly the texture and coloring of handsome bare shoulders4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fc ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fd ,those who do not approve of the dcollet style of dress1 or whose ungraceful proportions might well be entirely concealed1 can wear with appropriateness and benefit the corsage shown in ,no4 #fd4 ,this has much in its favor for a slender body4 ,the upper part of the waist may be made of chiffon or crpe1 which is beautifully--one might say benignly--translucent4 ,it has an insinuating transparency that neither reveals nor conceals too much4 ,the neck-band of velvet or satin1 full and soft1 apparently enlarges the throat4 ,the sleeves may be in whatever style in cut prevails4 ,this costume carries perfectly into effect the requirements of evening dress1 and may be worn with equal fitness to formal functions or to informal affairs4 ,a coat-sleeve of lace1 crpe1 or chiffon1 beflounced at the wrist1 may be inserted under the short satin sleeves when the occasion does not require gloves4 ,the soft1 white setting of thin textures around the throat and shoulders clears the complexion and brings into relief the pretty1 delicate lines of a refined face4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #fe and #ff ,it is plain to be seen that the unattractive specimen of femininity1 ,no4 #fe41 with the long1 wrinkled neck and sharply lined face is unbecomingly costumed in the ,v-shaped basque and corsage which apparently elongate her natural lankness4 ,a charming and always fashionable yoke-effect that she can wear to advantage is shown by ,no4 #ff4 ,this style of corsage is equally effective for a too thin or a too muscular neck4 ,the filling is of tulle4 ,a square-cut corsage is most becoming to the woman whose narrow shoulders have a consumptive droop4 ,the angular cut apparently heightens the shoulders and decreases their too steeple-like inclination4 ,the round cut1 if it frames a full throat1 is also an effective style for sloping shoulders4 ,the ,v-shaped cut is most becoming to the short-necked woman1 whose aim should be to increase the length of her throat4 ,it is not only the too thin neck that needs to be clothed with discrimination4 ,throats and shoulders that are too robust are improved by being covered4 ,the arms and shoulders1 however1 are often the chief beauty of a fleshy woman1 and it is to her advantage to give them as effective a setting as possible4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fh ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fg ,as is obvious in ,no4 #fg1 the stout woman apparently increases her breadth by wearing a flamboyant corsage1 and she hides the most exquisite lines of her arm with her sleeves4 ,the princesse style of gown1 in ,no4 #fh1 gives her apparent length of waist4 ,the modest lace flounce that falls in vertical folds decreases her formidable corsage4 ,the knotted twist of silk reveals the full beauty of her arm4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #fi ,in dressing the throat there are a few rules to be remembered4 ,a too long1 stem-like neck may be apparently shortened by a standing ruff or a full1 soft band of velvet4 ,the tight1 plain band of velvet should never be worn by a woman with a very slim neck1 as is plainly discernible in sketch ,no4 #fi4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gj ,the plain1 military collar emphasizes the thinness of the slender woman's throat2 but the soft crushed fold of velvet apparently enlarges the pipe-like proportions of the thin woman's neck1 as may be seen in sketch ,no4 #gj4 ,the tight-fitting collar should not be worn by the corpulent woman with a thick neck1 as is shown by sketch ,no4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ga ,the thickness of the throat of the woman pictured in ,no4 #gb may seem due to the folds of the velvet1 which give a pleasing hint of a slender throat1 a delusion not to be despised by the woman burdened with flesh4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gb ,all the sisterhood1--stout1 thin1 long-throated1 or short1--should know the hour when the withering touch of age begins to shrink the soft1 round curves distinctive of the full1 sweet throat of healthful youth4 ,no regretful vanity should be allowed to glamour their eyes to the fact that ,time has them by the throat1 to put it melodramatically4 ,the wise woman will not please herself with a fatal delusion4 ,she will realize it is illusion she needs-yards of it--lace or velvet1 or any beautifying texture that will conceal the deadly lines of age4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,hints ,,on ,,dress ,,for ,,elderly ,,women4 ,dress has much to do with a youthful or aged appearance4 ,shawls and long mantles that fall from the shoulders give even youthful figures a look of age1 because the lines are long and dignified and without especial grace4 ,beautiful wraps1 or coats that do not come very far below the hip-line1 can be worn becomingly by elderly ladies1 neither emphasizing their years nor making them appear too frivolously attired4 ,there is a smack of truth in the maxim1 ,as a woman grows old the dress material should increase in richness and decrease in brightness4 ,handsome brocades1 soft1 elegant silks1 woollen textures1 and velvets are eminently suitable and becoming to women who are growing old4 ,black1 and black-and-white1 soft white chiffon veiled in lace1 cashmeres1 and such refined tissues should be selected by those in the first wrinkles of youth4 ,grays combined with filmy white material1 dull bronzes lightened with cream-tinted lace1 are also charmingly appropriate4 ,pale blue veiled in chiffon is another grateful combination4 ,white should be worn more than it is by old ladies4 ,it is so suggestive of all that is clean1 bright1 and dainty2 and if there is anything an old lady should strive to be in her personal appearance it is dainty4 ,exquisite cleanliness is one of the most necessary attributes of attractive old age1 and any texture that in its quality and color emphasizes the idea of cleanliness should commend itself to those in their advanced youth4 ,little old thin women1 large ones too1 for that matter1 who are wrinkled and colorless1 should not wear diamonds4 ,the dazzling white gems with pitiless brilliancy bring out the pasty look of the skin4 ,the soft glow of pearls1 the cloudlike effects of the opal1 the unobtrusive lights of the moonstone harmonize with the tints of hair and skin of the aged4 ,elderly women should not wear bright flowers on their bonnets or hats4 ,fresh-looking roses above a face that has lost its first youthfulness only make that fact more obvious4 ,forget-me-nots1 mignonettes1 certain pretty white flowers1 the palest of pink roses1 or the most delicate tint of yellow veiled with lace are not inappropriate for those who do not enjoy wearing sombre bonnets and hats which are composed only of rich1 black textures4 ,lace cleverly intermingled with velvet and jewelled ornaments of dull1 rich shades are exceedingly effective on the head-gear of the old4 ,those who are gray-haired--and indeed all women as they grow old--should wear red above their brows instead of under their chins4 ,a glint of rich cardinal velvet1 or a rosette of the same against gray hair is beautiful4 ,lace6 ,lace6 ,lace6 and still more ,lace for the old4 ,lace is an essential to the dress of a woman more than forty years of age4 ,jabots1 ruches1 yokes1 cascades1 vests1 and gowns of lace1 black or white1 are all for the old4 ,rich lace has an exquisitely softening effect on the complexion4 ,thin women with necks that look like the strings of a violin should swathe1 smother1 decorate1 and adorn their throats with lace or gossamer fabrics that have the same quality as lace4 ,these airy textures1 in which light and shadow can so beautifully shift1 subdue roughnesses of the skin and harshness in lines4 ,old ,dame ,nature is the prime teacher of these bewitching artifices4 ,note her fine effects with mists and cobwebs1 with lace-like moss on sturdy old oaks1 the bloom on the peach and the grape4 ,nature produces her most enchanting colorings with dust and age4 ,laces1 gauzes1 mulls1 chiffons1 net1 and gossamer throw the same beautiful glamour over the face and they are fit and charming accompaniments of gray hair1 which is a wonderful softener of defective complexions and hard facial lines4 ,too much cannot be written upon the proper arrangement in the neck-gear of the aged4 ,the disfiguring wrinkles that make many necks unsightly may be kept in obeyance by massaging4 ,no matter what the fashion in neck-gear1 the aged must modify it to suit their needs4 ,an old lady with a thin1 pipe-stem neck should adopt a full ruche and fluffy1 soft collar-bands4 ,i cannot forbear repeating that tulle as light as thistle bubbles1 either white or gray or black1 is exquisitely effective for thin1 scrawny necks4 ,the fleshy1 red neck should be softened with powder and discreetly veiled in chemisettes of chiffon and delicate net4 ,old ladies may keep in the style1 thus being in the picture of the hour2 but it is one of the divine privileges of age that it can make its own modes4 ,absolute cleanliness1 cleanliness as exacting as that proper nurses prescribe for babies1 is the first and most important factor in making old age attractive4 ,rich dress1 in artistic colors1 soft1 misty1 esthetic1 comes next2 then the idealizing scarfs1 collars1 jabots1 and fichus of lace and tulles4 ,old people becomingly and artistically attired have the charm of rare old pictures4 ,if they have soul-illumined faces they are precious masterpieces4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,how ,,men ,,caricature ,,themselves ,,with ,,their ,,clothes4 ,although in the dress of man there are fewer possibilities of caricature than in that of woman1 yet1 the masterpieces of creation frequently exaggerate in a laughable--and sometimes a pitiable--way1 certain physical characteristics by an injudicious choice of clothes4 ,as the fashion in hair-dressing does not grant man the privilege of enhancing his facial attractions2 nor of obscuring his defects by a becomingly arranged coiffure2 and1 as the modes in neck-gear are such that he cannot modify the blemishes of a defective complexion by encircling his athletic or scrawny throat with airy tulle1 or dainty lace1 that arch-idealizer of pasty-looking faces2 and as he has forsworn soft1 trailing garments that conceal unclassic curves and uninspiring lines of nether limbs1 it behooves him to be more exactingly particular even than woman in the selection of his wearing apparel4 ,far be it from me1 however1 to remind man of his many limitations--in dress4 ,that he can never know the rapture of donning a becoming spring bonnet1 nor the pleasure of possessing real lace things1 nor the sensuous charm of being enwrapped in caressing furs1 or sleazy1 silken garments as exquisite in color and texture as beautiful1 fresh flowers1 only delicate consideration for his feelings constrains me from expatiating upon at length4 ,i would rather be able to remind him that he can make his limitations his advantages1 than reveal to him what he misses in not being a woman4 ,to treat of this important subject adequately and convincingly1 one would require the masterly discernment of a skillful and accomplished tailor1 the experienced knowledge of a well-dressed man1 and the alertly critical perception of a loving woman who1 even in the matter of clothes1 wishes the dearest of men to her1 to do full justice to himself and her ideal of him on all occasions4 ,although certain of the foregoing qualifications must needs be lacking1 nevertheless this timorous pen1 with more trepidation than courage it must be confessed1 begs to call attention to a few obvious details in masculine attire that caricature1 more or less1 peculiarities in the forms and features of men4 ,to be sure1 in the matter of head-gear man is not conspicuously at the mercy of burlesquing ribbons1 flowers1 and feathers1 and he has fewer opportunities than women to make himself ridiculous1 yet a few suggestions regarding certain shapes of head-gear for certain types of faces1 applicable to women are equally applicable to him4 ,the same rule that applies to the women of the wedge-shaped type of face applies to the man of the wedge-shaped type1 as may be seen in sketches ,nos4 #ge and #gf4 ,it is obvious that the youth depicted in ,no4 #ge detracts from the manliness of his face and emphasizes the pointed appearance of his countenance by wearing a hat with a broad brim projecting over his ears4 ,this style of hat appears more frequently in straw than in any other texture1 but the effect of a wide1 projecting rim is the same in any material4 ,no4 #gf1 it is plain1 improves the appearance of the long1 slim-faced man4 ,an alpine hat would not be unbecoming to him1 the high oval of the crown forming a balance for the lower part of the face4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ge ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gf ,the man with a pugilistic chin should endeavor to select a hat that will not make his heavy jaw as prominent as does the stiff derby1 in ,no4 #gg4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gg ,a soft alpine hat1 or one somewhat of the style of ,no4 #gh1 improves his appearance4 ,the high crown and wide1 gracefully rolling brim counter-balance the weight and prominence of the jaw4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gh ,apropos of the minor details of man's garments1 the button as a feature of clothes has never been fully done justice to4 ,it is a sustaining thing we know1 something we can hang to1 fasten to1 and even tie to4 ,that properly placed buttons contribute to our mental poise and therefore to our physical repose1 is hinted in that absurdly engaging story1 anent the smart boy who was the envy of his spelling-class1 because he always stood first4 ,you remember1 no doubt1 that an envious but keen-eyed classmate observed that the smart speller worked off his nervous apprehensiveness by twirling the top button of his coat as he correctly spelled word after word1 day in and day out2 and how the keen-eyed one played the part of a stealthy villain and surreptitiously cut the button off the coat4 ,and do you remember the dramatic ending8 ,how the smart one on the fatal day sought to press the button and finding it gone1 lost his wits completely and failed ignominiously8 ,many of us when we have lost a sustaining button1 have we not felt as ridiculously helpless and wit-benumbed as the smart speller8 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #gi ,we all sub-consciously acknowledge our dependence upon buttons1 but not many of us1 evidently1 have observed that even buttons have a certain possibility of caricature in them2 and that they may add to1 or detract from1 the appearance of manly forms4 ,the consideration of properly placed buttons may seem trivial to you1 but if you will observe sketches ,nos4 #gi and #hj1 you may discern that a thin man may apparently increase his breadth and add a certain manly touch to his figure1 by changing the buttons at the waist-line of his coat4 ,the buttons placed so near together1 in ,no4 #gi1 really make his toothpick proportions too obvious4 ,his back is made to look broader by placing the buttons wider apart1 as shown in ,no4 #hj1 and changing the cut of his coat-tail4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hj ,that the fat man may also present a more attractive back to his enemies by considering the placing of his buttons1 may be seen in drawings ,nos4 #ha and #hb4 ,the buttons decorating ,no4 #ha are placed so far apart that they increase in an ungainly way the breadth of the back at the waist-line4 ,if they are placed nearer together1 and the seams graduated to meet them1 they give the illusion of better and more desirable proportions1 as may be seen in ,no4 #hb4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ha ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hb ,that the thin man may also present a more imposing and broader front to the world1 is suggested in sketches ,nos4 #hc and #hd4 ,the contracted look of the coat in ,no4 #hc is somewhat due to the buttons of his double-breasted coat being placed too closely together4 ,the slender man who wishes to give the impression of being broad-chested may have the buttons on his coat placed a little farther apart than fashion may allow1 as shown in sketch #hd4 ,the proportions may be easily preserved by a careful adjustment of the shoulder-seams and the seams under the arms4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hc ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hd ,illustration3 ,,no4 #he ,the waist-line is not so much a danger line to man as to woman1 yet man should not wholly ignore his equator4 ,if he is long-waisted he can apparently balance his proportions by having his skirt shortened1 as in ,no4 #he1 and his waist-line raised the merest bit4 ,if he is too short-waisted he can lengthen his skirt and lower his waist-line1 as shown in ,no4 #hf4 ,in the one he escapes appearing too long and lanky in body1 and in the other he obscures a lack of becoming inches that tends to give him a dumpy appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hf ,if you study your fellow-men you will observe that few are really perfectly proportioned4 ,one man will have the body of a viking on the legs of a dwarf1 or one will have the legs of an ,apollo supporting the short body of a pigmy4 ,the man who has a kingly body1 too broad in proportion to his legs1 as shown in sketch ,no4 #hg1 should endeavor to modify his physical defect by the careful selection of his coats4 ,he should have his coats cut to give him as much length of leg as possible4 ,a skilful tailor will know just what subtle changes and adjustments to make4 ,the improvement in appearance and gain in height is pictured in sketch #hh4 ,the coat being shorter and the waist of the trousers being raised a trifle1 the man's limbs seem longer1 which is an improvement4 ,long lines tend to give elegance and grace in bearing4 ,another thing for the too robust type of man to consider is the style of his trousers4 ,no4 #hg hints what he must not choose4 ,such brazen plaids only make him appear offensively aggressive in size4 ,long1 fine lines1 such as shown in ,no4 #hh1 give an impression of length and apparently lessen the width4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hg ,too long lines1 however1 are almost as undesirable as too short ones4 ,over-tall1 thin men sometimes make themselves look like telegraph poles or flagstaffs by wearing short coats that expose in a graceless way the whole length of their limbs4 ,they suggest cranes and other fowl that give the impression of being all legs4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hh ,when the legs are proportioned more like a stick of macaroni or a lead pencil than the shapely limbs of an ,adonis1 they appear exceedingly funny when surmounted by a short coat1 such as pictured in ,no4 #hi4 ,a famous general in the ,civil ,war did not despise cotton as a fortification to protect him from the onslaught of the enemy4 ,the over-tall1 thin man1 who is not unsuggestive of a picket1 should not be ashamed to fortify himself with cotton or any other sort of padding that intelligent tailors keep in stock4 ,he should build his shoulders up a bit and be generally1 but most carefully and artistically1 enlarged4 ,his coat should be lengthened1 as in sketch go1 to cut off just as much of the longness of limb as can possibly be allowed without destroying artistic proportions4 ,the very tall1 thin man who unthinkingly wears a very short coat should be brave and never turn his back to his enemy4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #hi ,if he wears black and white check trousers and a short blue coat1 he should travel with a screen4 ,a man in just such a rig attracted no end of comment in a fashionable hotel4 ,the caricaturing effect of his trousers and coat were unspeakably comical4 ,the wearer had a face as grave as an undertaker's and the air of a serious-minded college professor2 but he had the nondescript look of a scarecrow composed of whatever available garments could be obtained from the cast-off wardrobe of summer boarders in a farmhouse4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ij ,coats assuredly have the power of making cartoons--living1 jocular cartoons--of their wearers4 ,it would hardly seem necessary to call attention to the fact that a man of huge dimensions should not wear a short coat1 such as shown in sketch ,no4 #ia1 yet his type is too frequently seen attired in this style4 ,a man so dressed certainly seems the living exemplification of the definition of a jug1 namely1 a vessel usually with a swelling belly1 narrow mouth1 and a handle1 for holding liquors4 ,it cannot be reiterated too often that a large1 stout man should aim to acquire the distinction and dignity given by long lines4 ,if his body is proportioned so he really has neither length of torso nor of limb he must pay more attention to the cut of his clothes and attain length in whatever artistic way he can4 ,the long coat1 as may be seen in sketch ,no4 #ib1 not only apparently adds length but it conceals too protuberant curves4 ,illustration3 ,,nos4 #ia and #ib ,of course1 character counts far more than clothes1 we will all agree to that1 but at first glance it is a man's clothes that impress people4 ,clothes affect our behavior somewhat4 ,for instance1 ,when the young ,european emigrant1 after a summer's labor puts on for the first time a new coat1 he puts on much more4 ,his good and becoming clothes put him on thinking that he must behave like people who are so dressed2 and silently and steadily his behavior mends4 ,of course1 there is an uplifting truth in ,george ,herbert's maxim1 ,this coat with my discretion will be brave1 yet1 ,i am inclined to think that the majority of men who will stop to consider will agree with ,emerson1 who says1 ,if a man has not firm nerves and has keen sensibility1 it is perhaps a wise economy to go to a good shop and dress himself irreproachably4 ,he can then dismiss all care from his mind1 and may easily find that performance an addition of confidence1 a fortification that turns the scale in social encounters1 and allows him to go gayly into conversations where else he had been dry and embarrassed4 ,i am not ignorant1--,i have heard with admiring submission the experience of the lady who declared 'that the sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inward tranquillity which religion is powerless to bestow4' ,a popular clothier in ,new ,york1 understanding this trait of his fellow-men1 voices this same sentiment in his advertisement in this succinct way3 ,seriously now4 ,have you ever stopped to think that if you wear good clothing it adds much to that independent1 easy feeling you should have when you come in contact with other men8 ,i think it was ,lord ,chesterfield who said3 ,a man is received according to his appearance1 and dismissed according to his merits4 ,there is a bit of truth in this we would all admit1 ,i have no doubt1 if we studied the question4 ,clothes affect our own poise1 ease1 and attitude toward others and the expression of others toward us1 but1 after all1 we rely upon the man or woman instead of upon the impression we receive from the clothes4 ,the garments1 after we have noticed them in a superficial way1 are chiefly interesting to us1 because they are arch-betrayers of the physical and mental poise of the man4 ,no matter what the cut of the cloth1 no matter what cachet of a fashionable tailor a suit may have1 or what its richness of material1 the attitude la decadence of ,no4 #ic would make the best clothes in ,christendom look shabby and unattractive4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ic ,this too familiar carriage of the ,american man makes one wish to have the power to reverse the faces--as ,dante did those of the false prophets1 so those who stand la decadence might see what ridiculous figures they cut in drawing-room and street4 ,the curved backs and rounded-out shoulders would make fair-looking chests1 and the flat chests would represent respectable-looking backs4 ,a man owes it to the spirit within him not to stand or walk in such an attitude4 ,he should brace up and keep bracing up persistently1 unremittently1 until he attains a more manly bearing4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #id ,the wholly alive fellow pictured in sketch ,no4 #id would make homespun look elegant4 ,his chest is forward4 ,he does not sag in front at the waist1 protruding his abdomen in not only an inartistic1 but an unhealthy manner2 but he strides masterfully forward with an air of inspiriting aliveness4 ,the perfect poise of his attitude is not unsuggestive of the ,apollo ,belvedere--the model for all men--a picture of which every college boy should have to place beside the prettiest girl in his collection of pretty girls1 to constantly remind him to carry himself like a young god4