,,missionary ,,travels ,,and ,,researches ,,in ,,south ,,africa4 ,also called1 ,travels and ,researches in ,south ,africa2 or1 ,journeys and ,researches in ,south ,africa4 ,by ,david ,livingstone ,british 7,scot7 ,missionary and ,explorer--#ahac-ahgc4 ,this etext was prepared by ,alan4 ,r4 ,light ,to assure a high quality text1 the original was typed in 7manually7 twice and electronically compared4 ,italicized words or phrases are ,,capitalized4 ,david ,livingstone was born in ,scotland1 received his medical degree from the ,university of ,glasgow1 and was sent to ,south ,africa by the ,london ,missionary ,society4 ,circumstances led him to try to meet the material needs as well as the spiritual needs of the people he went to1 and while promoting trade and trying to end slavery1 he became the first ,european to cross the continent of ,africa1 which story is related in this book4 ,two appendixes have been added to this etext1 one of which is simply notes on the minor changes made to make this etext more readable1 7old vs4 new forms of words1 names1 etc472 the other is a review from the ,february1 #aheh edition of ,harper's ,magazine1 which is included both for those readers who want to see a brief synopsis1 and more importantly to give an example of how ,livingstone's accomplishments were seen in his own time4 ,the unnamed reviewer was by no means as enlightened as ,livingstone1 yet he was not entirely in the dark1 either4 ,the casual reader1 who may not be familiar with the historical period1 should note that a few things that ,livingstone wrote1 which might be seen as racist by today's standards1 was not considered so in his own time4 ,livingstone simply uses the terms and the science of his day--these were no doubt flawed1 as is also seen elsewhere1 in his references to malaria1 for example4 ,which all goes to show that it was the science of the day which was flawed1 and not so much ,livingstone4 ,i will also add that the ,rev4 ,livingstone has a fine sense of humour1 which ,i hope the reader will enjoy4 ,his description of a ,makololo dance is classic4 ,lastly1 ,i will note that what ,i love most about ,livingstone's descriptions is not only that he was not polluted by the racism of his day1 but that he was not polluted by the anti-racism of our own4 ,he states things as he sees them1 and notes that the ,africans are1 like all other men1 a curious mixture of good and evil4 ,this1 to me1 demonstrates his good faith better than any other description could4 ,you see1 ,david ,livingstone does not write about ,africa as a missionary1 nor as an explorer1 nor yet as a scientist1 but as a man meeting fellow men4 ,i hope you will enjoy his writings as much as ,i did4 ,alan ,r4 ,light ,monroe1 ,n4,c41 #aiig4 ,,missionary ,,travels ,,and ,,researches ,,in ,,south ,,africa2 ,including a ,sketch of ,sixteen ,years' ,residence in the ,interior of ,africa1 and a ,journey from the ,cape of ,good ,hope to ,loanda on the ,west ,coast2 ,thence ,across the ,continent1 ,down the ,river ,zambesi1 to the ,eastern ,ocean4 ,by ,david ,livingstone1 ,,ll4,d41 ,d4,c4,l41 ,fellow of the ,faculty of ,physicians and ,surgeons1 ,glasgow2 ,corresponding ,member of the ,geographical and ,statistical ,society of ,new ,york2 ,gold ,medalist and ,corresponding ,member of the ,royal ,geographical ,societies of ,london and ,paris ,f4,s4,a41 ,etc41 ,etc4 ,dedication4 ,to ,,sir ,,roderick ,,impey ,,murchison1 ,president ,royal ,geographical ,society1 ,f4,r4,s41 ,v4,p4,g4,s41 ,corr4 ,inst4 of ,france1 and ,member of the ,academies of ,st4 ,petersburg1 ,berlin1 ,stockholm1 ,copenhagen1 ,brussels1 ,etc41 ,this ,work is affectionately offered as a ,token of ,gratitude for the kind interest he has always taken in the ,author's pursuits and welfare2 and to express admiration of his eminent scientific attainments1 nowhere more strongly evidenced than by the striking hypothesis respecting the physical conformation of the ,african continent1 promulgated in his ,presidential ,address to the ,royal ,geographic ,society in #aheb1 and verified three years afterward by the ,author of these ,travels4 ,,david ,,livingstone4 ,london1 ,oct41 #aheg4 ,preface4 ,when honored with a special meeting of welcome by the ,royal ,geographical ,society a few days after my arrival in ,london in ,december last1 ,sir ,roderick ,murchison1 the ,president1 invited me to give the world a narrative of my travels2 and at a similar meeting of the ,directors of the ,london ,missionary ,society ,i publicly stated my intention of sending a book to the press1 instead of making many of those public appearances which were urged upon me4 ,the preparation of this narrative99 has taken much longer time than1 from my inexperience in authorship1 ,i had anticipated4 99 ,several attempts having been made to impose upon the public1 as mine1 spurious narratives of my travels1 ,i beg to tender my thanks to the editors of the ',times' and of the ',athenaeum' for aiding to expose them1 and to the booksellers of ,london for refusing to ,,subscribe for any copies4 ,greater smoothness of diction and a saving of time might have been secured by the employment of a person accustomed to compilation2 but my journals having been kept for my own private purposes1 no one else could have made use of them1 or have entered with intelligence into the circumstances in which ,i was placed in ,africa1 far from any ,european companion4 ,those who have never carried a book through the press can form no idea of the amount of toil it involves4 ,the process has increased my respect for authors and authoresses a thousand-fold4 ,i can not refrain from referring1 with sentiments of admiration and gratitude1 to my friend ,thomas ,maclear1 ,esq41 the accomplished ,astronomer ,royal at the ,cape4 ,i shall never cease to remember his instructions and help with real gratitude4 ,the intercourse ,i had the privilege to enjoy at the ,observatory enabled me to form an idea of the almost infinite variety of acquirements necessary to form a true and great astronomer1 and ,i was led to the conviction that it will be long before the world becomes overstocked with accomplished members of that profession4 ,let them be always honored according to their deserts2 and long may ,maclear1 ,herschel1 ,airy1 and others live to make known the wonders and glory of creation1 and to aid in rendering the pathway of the world safe to mariners1 and the dark places of the earth open to ,christians6 ,i beg to offer my hearty thanks to my friend ,sir ,roderick ,murchison1 and also to ,dr4 ,norton ,shaw1 the secretary of the ,royal ,geographical ,society1 for aiding my researches by every means in their power4 ,his faithful majesty ,don ,pedro ,v41 having kindly sent out orders to support my late companions until my return1 relieved my mind of anxiety on their account4 ,but for this act of liberality1 ,i should certainly have been compelled to leave ,england in ,may last2 and it has afforded me the pleasure of traveling over1 in imagination1 every scene again1 and recalling the feelings which actuated me at the time4 ,i have much pleasure in acknowledging my deep obligations to the hospitality and kindness of the ,portuguese on many occasions4 ,i have not entered into the early labors1 trials1 and successes of the missionaries who preceded me in the ,bechuana country1 because that has been done by the much abler pen of my father-in-law1 ,rev4 ,robert ,moffat1 of ,kuruman1 who has been an energetic and devoted actor in the scene for upward of forty years4 ,a slight sketch only is given of my own attempts1 and the chief part of the book is taken up with a detail of the efforts made to open up a new field north of the ,bechuana country to the sympathies of ,christendom4 ,the prospects there disclosed are fairer than ,i anticipated1 and the capabilities of the new region lead me to hope that by the production of the raw materials of our manufactures1 ,african and ,english interests will become more closely linked than heretofore1 that both countries will be eventually benefited1 and that the cause of freedom throughout the world will in some measure be promoted4 ,dr4 ,hooker1 of ,kew1 has had the kindness to name and classify for me1 as far as possible1 some of the new botanical specimens which ,i brought over2 ,dr4 ,andrew ,smith 7himself an ,african traveler7 has aided me in the zoology2 and ,captain ,need has laid open for my use his portfolio of ,african sketches1 for all which acts of liberality my thanks are deservedly due1 as well as to my brother1 who has rendered me willing aid as an amanuensis4 ,although ,i can not profess to be a draughtsman1 ,i brought home with me a few rough diagram-sketches1 from one of which the view of the ,falls of the ,zambesi has been prepared by a more experienced artist4 ,october1 #aheg4 ,contents4 ,introduction4 ,personal ,sketch--,highland ,ancestors--,family ,traditions--,grandfather removes to the ,lowlands--,parents-- ,early ,labors and ,efforts--,evening ,school--,love of ,reading-- ,religious ,impressions--,medical ,education--,youthful ,travels-- ,geology--,mental ,discipline--,study in ,glasgow--,london ,missionary ,society--,native ,village--,medical ,diploma-- ,theological ,studies--,departure for ,africa--,no ,claim to ,literary ,accomplishments4 ,chapter #a4 ,the ,bakwain ,country--,study of the ,language--,native ,ideas regarding ,comets--,mabotsa ,station--,a ,lion ,encounter-- ,virus of the ,teeth of ,lions--,names of the ,bechuana ,tribes-- ,sechele--,his ,ancestors--,obtains the ,chieftainship--,his ,marriage and ,government--,the ,kotla--,first public ,religious ,services--,sechele's ,questions--,he ,learns to ,read--,novel mode for ,converting his ,tribe--,surprise at their ,indifference-- ,polygamy--,baptism of ,sechele--,opposition of the ,natives-- ,purchase ,land at ,chonuane--,relations with the ,people--,their ,intelligence--,prolonged ,drought--,consequent ,trials--,rain- medicine--,god's ,word blamed--,native ,reasoning--,rain-maker-- ,dispute between ,rain ,doctor and ,medical ,doctor--,the ,hunting ,hopo--,salt or animal ,food a necessary of ,life--,duties of a ,missionary4 ,chapter #b4 ,the ,boers--,their ,treatment of the ,natives--,seizure of native ,children for ,slaves--,english ,traders--,alarm of the ,boers--,native ,espionage--,the ,tale of the ,cannon--,the ,boers threaten ,sechele--,in violation of ,treaty1 they stop ,english ,traders and expel ,missionaries--,they attack the ,bakwains-- ,their ,mode of ,fighting--,the ,natives killed and the ,school- children carried into ,slavery--,destruction of ,english ,property--,african ,housebuilding and ,housekeeping--,mode of ,spending the ,day--,scarcity of ,food--,locusts--,edible ,frogs-- ,scavenger ,beetle--,continued ,hostility of the ,boers--,the ,journey north--,preparations--,fellow-travelers- -,the ,kalahari ,desert--,vegetation--,watermelons--,the ,inhabitants--,the ,bushmen- -,their nomad ,mode of ,life--,appearance--,the ,bakalahari--,their ,love for ,agriculture and for domestic ,animals--,timid ,character--,mode of obtaining ,water--,female ,water-suckers--,the ,desert--,water hidden4 ,chapter #c4 ,departure from ,kolobeng1 #ast ,june1 #ahdi-- ,companions--,our ,route--,abundance of ,grass--,serotli1 a ,fountain in the ,desert--,mode of digging ,wells--,the ,eland--,animals of the ,desert--,the ,hyaena--,the ,chief ,sekomi--,dangers--,the wandering ,guide--,cross ,purposes--,slow ,progress--,want of ,water-- ,capture of a ,bushwoman--,the ,salt-pan at ,nchokotsa--,the ,mirage--,reach the ,river ,zouga--,the ,quakers of ,africa-- ,discovery of ,lake ,ngami1 #ast ,august1 #ahdi--;,its ,extent--,small ,depth of ,water--,position as the ,reservoir of a great ,river ,system--,the ,bamangwato and their ,chief--,desire to visit ,sebituane1 the ,chief of the ,makololo--,refusal of ,lechulatebe to furnish us with ,guides--,resolve to return to the ,cape--,the ,banks of the ,zouga--,pitfalls--,trees of the ,district-- ,elephants--,new ,species of ,antelope--,fish in the ,zouga4 ,chapter #d4 ,leave ,kolobeng again for the ,country of ,sebituane-- ,reach the ,zouga--,the ,tsetse--,a ,party of ,englishmen--,death of ,mr4 ,rider--,obtain ,guides--,children fall sick with ,fever-- ,relinquish the ,attempt to reach ,sebituane--,mr4 ,oswell's ,elephant-hunting--,return to ,kolobeng--,make a third ,start thence--,reach ,nchokotsa--,salt-pans--,links1 or ,springs-- ,bushmen--,our ,guide ,shobo--,the ,banajoa--,an ugly ,chief--,the ,tsetse--,bite fatal to domestic ,animals1 but harmless to wild ,animals and ,man--,operation of the ,poison--,losses caused by it-- ,the ,makololo--,our ,meeting with ,sebituane--,sketch of his ,career--,his ,courage and ,conquests--,manoeuvres of the ,batoka-- ,he outwits them--,his ,wars with the ,matebele--,predictions of a native ,prophet--,successes of the ,makololo--,renewed ,attacks of the ,matebele--,the ,island of ,loyelo--,defeat of the ,matebele-- ,sebituane's ,policy--,his ,kindness to ,strangers and to the ,poor-- ,his sudden ,illness and ,death--,succeeded by his ,daughter--,her ,friendliness to us--,discovery1 in ,june1 #ahea1 of the ,zambesi flowing in the ,centre of the ,continent--,its ,size--,the ,mambari-- ,the ,slave-trade--,determine to send ,family to ,england--,return to the ,cape in ,april1 #aheb--,safe ,transit through the ,caffre ,country during ,hostilities--,need of a ,special ,correspondent --,kindness of the ,london ,missionary ,society--,assistance afforded by the ,astronomer ,royal at the ,cape4 ,chapter #e4 ,start in ,june1 #aheb1 on the last and longest ,journey from ,cape ,town--,companions--,wagon-traveling--,p hysical ,divisions of ,africa--,the ,eastern1 ,central1 and ,western ,zones-- ,the ,kalahari ,desert--,its ,vegetation--,increasing ,value of the ,interior for ,colonization--,our ,route--,dutch ,boers--,their ,habits--,sterile ,appearance of the ,district--,failure of ,grass-- ,succeeded by other ,plants--,vines--,animals--,the ,boers as ,farmers--,migration of ,springbucks--,wariness of ,animals--,the ,orange ,river--,territory of the ,griquas and ,bechuanas--,the ,griquas--,the ,chief ,waterboer--,his wise and energetic ,government--,his ,fidelity--,ill-considered ,measures of the ,colonial ,government in regard to ,supplies of ,gunpowder-- ,success of the ,missionaries among the ,griquas and ,bechuanas-- ,manifest ,improvement of the native ,character--,dress of the ,natives--,a full-dress ,costume--,a ,native's ,description of the ,natives--,articles of ,commerce in the ,country of the ,bechuanas-- ,their ,unwillingness to learn1 and ,readiness to criticise4 ,chapter #f4 ,kuruman--,its fine ,fountain--,vegetation of the ,district--,remains of ancient ,forests--,vegetable ,poison--,the ,bible translated by ,mr4 ,moffat--,capabilities of the ,language-- ,christianity among the ,natives--,the ,missionaries should extend their ,labors more beyond the ,cape ,colony--,model ,christians-- ,disgraceful ,attack of the ,boers on the ,bakwains--,letter from ,sechele--,details of the ,attack--,numbers of ,school-children carried away into ,slavery--,destruction of ,house and ,property at ,kolobeng--,the ,boers vow ,vengeance against me--,consequent ,difficulty of getting ,servants to accompany me on my ,journey-- ,start in ,november1 #aheb--,meet ,sechele on his way to ,england to obtain ,redress from the ,queen--,he is unable to proceed beyond the ,cape--,meet ,mr4 ,macabe on his ,return from ,lake ,ngami--,the hot ,wind of the ,desert--,electric ,state of the ,atmosphere-- ,flock of ,swifts--,reach ,litubaruba--,the ,cave ,lepelole-- ,superstitions regarding it--,impoverished ,state of the ,bakwains--,retaliation on the ,boers--,slavery--,attachment of the ,bechuanas to ,children--,hydrophobia unknown--,diseases of the ,bakwains few in number--,yearly ,epidemics--,hasty ,burials-- ,ophthalmia--,native ,doctors--,knowledge of ,surgery at a very low ,ebb--,little ,attendance given to ,women at their ,confinements-- ,the ,child ,medicine--,salubrity of the ,climate well adapted for ,invalids suffering from pulmonary ,complaints4 ,chapter #g4 ,departure from the ,country of the ,bakwains--,large black ,ant--,land ,tortoises--,diseases of wild ,animals--,habits of old ,lions--,cowardice of the ,lion--,its ,dread of a ,snare--,major ,vardon's ,note--,the ,roar of the ,lion resembles the ,cry of the ,ostrich--,seldom attacks full-grown ,animals--,buffaloes and ,lions--,mice--,serpents--,treading on one--,venomous and harmless ,varieties--,fascination--,sekomi's ,ideas of ,honesty--,ceremony of the ,sechu for ,boys--,the ,boyale for young ,women--,bamangwato ,hills--,the ,unicorn's ,pass--,the ,country beyond--,grain--,scarcity of ,water--,honorable ,conduct of ,english ,gentlemen--,gordon ,cumming's hunting ,adventures--,a ,word of ,advice for young ,sportsmen--,bushwomen drawing ,water--,ostrich--,silly ,habit-- ,paces--,eggs--,food4 ,chapter #h4 ,effects of ,missionary ,efforts--,belief in the ,deity-- ,ideas of the ,bakwains on ,religion--,departure from their ,country--,salt-pans--,sour ,curd--,nchokotsa--,bitter ,waters-- ,thirst suffered by the wild ,animals--,wanton ,cruelty in ,hunting--,ntwetwe--,mowana-trees--,thei r extraordinary ,vitality-- ,the ,mopane-tree--,the ,morala--,the ,bushmen--,their ,superstitions-- ,elephant-hunting--,superiority of civilized over barbarous ,sportsmen--,the ,chief ,kaisa--,his ,fear of ,responsibility--,beauty of the ,country at ,unku--,the ,mohonono ,bush--,severe ,labor in cutting our ,way--,party seized with ,fever--,escape of our ,cattle--,bakwain ,mode of recapturing them--,vagaries of sick ,servants--,discovery of grape-bearing ,vines--,an ,ant-eater-- ,difficulty of passing through the ,forest--,sickness of my ,companion--,the ,bushmen--,their ,mode of destroying ,lions-- ,poisons--,the solitary ,hill--,a picturesque ,valley--,beauty of the ,country--,arrive at the ,sanshureh ,river--,the flooded ,prairies--,a pontooning ,expedition--,a night ,bivouac--,the ,chobe-- ,arrive at the ,village of ,moremi--,surprise of the ,makololo at our sudden ,appearance--,cross the ,chobe on our way to ,linyanti4 ,chapter #i4 ,reception at ,linyanti--,the court ,herald--,sekeletu obtains the ,chieftainship from his ,sister--,mpepe's ,plot-- ,slave-trading ,mambari--,their sudden ,flight--,sekeletu narrowly escapes ,assassination--,execution of ,mpepe--,the ,courts of ,law-- ,mode of trying ,offenses--,sekeletu's ,reason for not learning to read the ,bible--,the ,disposition made of the ,wives of a deceased ,chief--,makololo ,women--,they work but little--,employ ,serfs--,their ,drink1 ,dress1 and ,ornaments--,public ,religious ,services in the ,kotla--,unfavorable ,associations of the place-- ,native ,doctors--,proposals to teach the ,makololo to read-- ,sekeletu's ,present--,reason for accepting it--,trading in ,ivory-- ,accidental ,fire--,presents for ,sekeletu--,two ,breeds of native ,cattle--,ornamenting the ,cattle--,the ,women and the ,looking- glass--,mode of preparing the ,skins of ,oxen for ,mantles and for ,shields--,throwing the ,spear4 ,chapter #aj4 ,the ,fever--,its ,symptoms--,remedies of the native ,doctors--,hospitality of ,sekeletu and his ,people--,one of their ,reasons for ,polygamy--,they cultivate largely--,the ,makalaka or subject ,tribes--,sebituane's ,policy respecting them--,their ,affection for him--,products of the ,soil--,instrument of ,culture--,the ,tribute--,distributed by the ,chief--,a warlike ,demonstration--,lechulatebe's ,provocations--,the ,makololo determine to punish him--,the ,bechuanas--,meaning of the ,term-- ,three ,divisions of the great ,family of ,south ,africans4 ,chapter #aa4 ,departure from ,linyanti for ,sesheke--,level ,country--,ant-hills--,wild ,date-trees--,appearance of our ,attendants on the ,march--,the ,chief's ,guard--,they attempt to ride on ,ox-back--,vast ,herds of the new ,antelopes1 ,leches1 and ,nakongs--,the native way of hunting them--,reception at the ,villages--,presents of ,beer and ,milk--,eating with the ,hand--,the ,chief provides the ,oxen for ,slaughter--,social ,mode of ,eating-- ,the ,sugar-cane--,sekeletu's novel ,test of ,character-- ,cleanliness of ,makololo ,huts--,their ,construction and ,appearance--,the ,beds--,cross the ,leeambye--,aspect of this part of the ,country--,the small ,antelope ,tianyane unknown in the ,south--,hunting on foot--,an ,eland4 ,chapter #ab4 ,procure ,canoes and ascend the ,leeambye--,beautiful ,islands--,winter ,landscape--,industry and ,skill of the ,banyeti-- ,rapids--,falls of ,gonye--,tradition--,annual ,inundations-- ,fertility of the great ,barotse ,valley--,execution of two ,conspirators--,the ,slave-dealer's ,stockade--,naliele1 the ,capital1 built on an artificial ,mound--,santuru1 a great ,hunter--,the ,barotse ,method of commemorating any remarkable ,event--,better ,treatment of ,women--,more religious ,feeling-- ,belief in a future ,state1 and in the ,existence of spiritual ,beings--,gardens--,fish1 ,fruit1 and ,game--,proceed to the ,limits of the ,barotse ,country--,sekeletu provides ,rowers and a ,herald-- ,the ,river and ,vicinity--,hippopotamus-hunters--,no healthy ,location--,determine to go to ,loanda--,buffaloes1 ,elands1 and ,lions above ,libonta--,interview with the ,mambari--,two ,arabs from ,zanzibar--,their ,opinion of the ,portuguese and the ,english --,reach the ,town of ,ma-,sekeletu--,joy of the ,people at the first ,visit of their ,chief--,return to ,sesheke--,heathenism4 ,chapter #ac4 ,preliminary ,arrangements for the ,journey--,a ,picho-- ,twenty-seven ,men appointed to accompany me to the ,west-- ,eagerness of the ,makololo for direct ,trade with the ,coast-- ,effects of ,fever--,a ,makololo ,question--,the lost ,journal-- ,reflections--,the ,outfit for the ,journey--#aath ,november1 #ahec1 leave ,linyanti1 and embark on the ,chobe--,dangerous ,hippopotami--,banks of ,chobe--,trees--,the ,course of the ,river-- ,the ,island ,mparia at the ,confluence of the ,chobe and the ,leeambye--,anecdote--,ascend the ,leeambye--,a ,makalaka ,mother defies the ,authority of the ,makololo ,head ,man at ,sesheke-- ,punishment of ,thieves--,observance of the new ,moon--,public ,addresses at ,sesheke--,attention of the ,people--,results-- ,proceed up the ,river--,the ,fruit which yields ',nux vomica'-- ,other ,fruits--,the ,rapids--,birds--,fish--,hippopotami and their ,young4 ,chapter #ad4 ,increasing ,beauty of the ,country--,mode of spending the ,day--,the ,people and the ,falls of ,gonye--,a ,makololo ,foray-- ,a second prevented1 and ,captives delivered up--,politeness and ,liberality of the ,people--,the ,rains--,present of ,oxen--,the fugitive ,barotse--,sekobinyane's ,misgovernment--,bee-eaters and other ,birds--,fresh-water ,sponges--,current--,death from a ,lion's ,bite at ,libonta--,continued ,kindness--,arrangements for spending the ,night during the ,journey--,cooking and ,washing--,abundance of animal ,life--,different ,species of ,birds--,water-fowl-- ,egyptian ,geese--,alligators--,narrow ,escape of one of my ,men-- ,superstitious ,feelings respecting the ,alligator--,large ,game-- ,the most vulnerable ,spot--,gun ,medicine--,a ,sunday--,birds of ,song--,depravity2 its ,treatment--,wild ,fruits--,green ,pigeons-- ,shoals of ,fish--,hippopotami4 ,chapter #ae4 ,message to ,masiko1 the ,barotse ,chief1 regarding the ,captives--,navigation of the ,leeambye--,capabilities of this ,district--,the ,leeba--,flowers and ,bees--,buffalo-hunt--,field for a ,botanist--,young ,alligators2 their savage ,nature--,suspicion of the ,balonda--,sekelenke's ,present--,a ,man and his two ,wives-- ,hunters--,message from ,manenko1 a female ,chief--,mambari ,traders--,a ,dream--,sheakondo and his ,people--,teeth-filing-- ,desire for ,butter--,interview with ,nyamoana1 another female ,chief--,court ,etiquette--,hair versus ,wool--,increase of ,superstition--,arrival of ,manenko2 her ,appearance and ,husband-- ,mode of ,salutation--,anklets--,embassy1 with a ,present from ,masiko--,roast ,beef--,manioc--,magic ,lantern--,manenko an accomplished ,scold3 compels us to wait--,unsuccessful ,zebra- hunt4 ,chapter #af4 ,nyamoana's ,present--,charms--,manenko's pedestrian ,powers--,an ,idol--,balonda ,arms--,rain--,hunger--,palisades--,dens e ,forests--,artificial ,beehives--,mushrooms--,villagers lend the ,roofs of their ,houses--,divination and ,idols--,manenko's ,whims-- ,a night ,alarm--,shinte's ,messengers and ,present--,the proper ,way to approach a ,village--,a ,merman--,enter ,shinte's ,town3 its ,appearance--,meet two half-caste ,slave-traders--,the ,makololo scorn them--,the ,balonda real ,negroes--,grand ,reception from ,shinte--,his ,kotla--,ceremony of ,introduction--,the ,orators-- ,women--,musicians and ,musical ,instruments--,a disagreeable ,request--,private ,interviews with ,shinte--,give him an ,ox-- ,fertility of ,soil--,manenko's new ,hut--,conversation with ,shinte--,kolimbota's ,proposal--,balonda's ,punctiliousness-- ,selling ,children--,kidnapping--,shinte's ,offer of a ,slave--,magic ,lantern--,alarm of ,women--,delay--,sambanza returns intoxicated-- ,the last and greatest ,proof of ,shinte's ,friendship4 ,chapter #ag4 ,leave ,shinte--,manioc ,gardens--,mode of preparing the poisonous kind--,its general ,use--,presents of ,food-- ,punctiliousness of the ,balonda--,their ,idols and ,superstition-- ,dress of the ,balonda--,villages beyond ,lonaje--,cazembe--,our ,guides and the ,makololo--,night ,rains--,inquiries for ,english cotton ,goods--,intemese's ,fiction--,visit from an old ,man-- ,theft--,industry of our ,guide--,loss of ,pontoon--,plains covered with ,water--,affection of the ,balonda for their ,mothers--,a ,night on an ,island--,the ,grass on the ,plains--,source of the ,rivers--,loan of the ,roofs of ,huts--,a ,halt--,fertility of the ,country through which the ,lokalueje flows--,omnivorous ,fish-- ,natives' ,mode of catching them--,the ,village of a ,half-brother of ,katema1 his ,speech and ,present--,our ,guide's ,perversity-- ,mozenkwa's pleasant ,home and ,family--,clear ,water of the flooded ,rivers--,a ,messenger from ,katema--,quendende's ,village3 his ,kindness--,crop of ,wool--,meet ,people from the ,town of ,matiamvo--,fireside ,talk--,matiamvo's ,character and ,conduct-- ,presentation at ,katema's ,court3 his ,present1 good ,sense1 and ,appearance--,interview on the following ,day--,cattle--,a ,feast and a ,makololo ,dance--,arrest of a ,fugitive--,dignified old ,courtier--,katema's lax ,government--,cold ,wind from the ,north-- ,canaries and other singing ,birds--,spiders1 their ,nests and ,webs--,lake ,dilolo--,tradition--,sagacity of ,ants4 ,chapter #ah4 ,the ,watershed between the northern and southern ,rivers--,a deep ,valley--,rustic ,bridge--,fountains on the ,slopes of the ,valleys--,village of ,kabinje--,good ,effects of the ,belief in the ,power of ,charms--,demand for ,gunpowder and ,english ,calico--,the ,kasai--,vexatious ,trick--,want of ,food--,no ,game-- ,katende's unreasonable ,demand--,a grave ,offense--,toll-bridge ,keeper--,greedy ,guides--,flooded ,valleys--,swim the ,nyuana ,loke-- ,prompt ,kindness of my ,men--,makololo ,remarks on the rich uncultivated ,valleys--,difference in the ,color of ,africans-- ,reach a ,village of the ,chiboque--,the ,head ,man's impudent ,message--,surrounds our ,encampment with his ,warriors--,the ,pretense--,their ,demand--,prospect of a ,fight--,way in which it was averted--,change our ,path--,summer--,fever--,beehives and the ,honey-guide--,instinct of ,trees--,climbers--,the ,ox ,sinbad-- ,absence of ,thorns in the ,forests--,plant peculiar to a forsaken ,garden--,bad ,guides--,insubordination suppressed--,beset by ,enemies--,a ,robber ,party--,more ,troubles--,detained by ,ionga ,panza--,his ,village--,annoyed by ,bangala ,traders--,my ,men discouraged--,their ,determination and ,precaution4 ,chapter #ai4 ,guides prepaid--,bark ,canoes--,deserted by ,guides-- ,mistakes respecting the ,coanza--,feelings of freed ,slaves-- ,gardens and ,villages--,native ,traders--,a ,grave--,valley of the ,quango--,bamboo--,white ,larvae used as ,food--,bashinje ,insolence-- ,a posing ,question--,the ,chief ,sansawe--,his ,hostility--,pass him safely--,the ,river ,quango--,chief's mode of dressing his ,hair-- ,opposition--,opportune ,aid by ,cypriano--,his generous ,hospitality--,ability of ,half-castes to read and write--,books and ,images--,marauding ,party burned in the ,grass--,arrive at ,cassange--,a good ,supper--,kindness of ,captain ,neves-- ,portuguese ,curiosity and ,questions--,anniversary of the ,resurrection--,no ,prejudice against ,color--,country around ,cassange--,sell ,sekeletu's ,ivory--,makololo's ,surprise at the high ,price obtained--,proposal to return ,home1 and ,reasons-- ,soldier-guide--,hill ,kasala--,tala ,mungongo1 ,village of-- ,civility of ,basongo--,true ,negroes--,a ,field of ,wheat--,carriers-- ,sleeping-places--,fever--,enter ,district of ,ambaca--,good ,fruits of ,jesuit ,teaching--,the ',tampan'2 its ,bite--,universal ,hospitality of the ,portuguese--,a ,tale of the ,mambari-- ,exhilarating ,effects of ,highland ,scenery--,district of ,golungo ,alto--,want of good ,roads--,fertility--,forests of gigantic ,timber--,native ,carpenters--,coffee ,estate--,sterility of ,country near the ,coast--,mosquitoes--,fears of the ,makololo--,welcome by ,mr4 ,gabriel to ,loanda4 ,chapter #bj4 ,continued ,sickness--,kindness of the ,bishop of ,angola and her ,majesty's ,officers--,mr4 ,gabriel's unwearied ,hospitality--,serious ,deportment of the ,makololo--,they visit ,ships of ,war--,politeness of the ,officers and ,men--,the ,makololo attend ,mass in the ,cathedral--,their ,remarks--,find ,employment in collecting ,firewood and unloading ,coal--,their superior ,judgment respecting ,goods--,beneficial ,influence of the ,bishop of ,angola--,the ,city of ,st4 ,paul de ,loanda--,the ,harbor--,custom- house--,no ,english ,merchants--,sincerity of the ,portuguese ,government in suppressing the ,slave-trade--,convict ,soldiers-- ,presents from ,bishop and ,merchants for ,sekeletu--,outfit--,leave ,loanda #bjth ,september1 #ahed--;,accompanied by ,mr4 ,gabriel as far as ,icollo i ,bengo--,sugar ,manufactory--,geology of this part of the ,country--,women spinning ,cotton--,its ,price--,native ,weavers-- ,market-places--,cazengo2 its ,coffee ,plantations--,south ,american ,trees--,ruins of ,iron ,foundry--,native ,miners--,the ,banks of the ,lucalla--,cottages with ,stages--,tobacco-plants-- ,town of ,massangano--,sugar and ,rice--,superior ,district for ,cotton--,portuguese ,merchants and foreign ,enterprise--,ruins-- ,the ,fort and its ancient ,guns--,former ,importance of ,massangano--,fires--,the ,tribe ,kisama--,peculiar ,variety of ,domestic ,fowl--,coffee ,plantations--,return to ,golungo ,alto-- ,self-complacency of the ,makololo--,fever--,jaundice--,insanity4 ,chapter #ba4 ,visit a deserted ,convent--,favorable ,report of ,jesuits and their ,teaching--,gradations of native ,society-- ,punishment of ,thieves--,palm-toddy2 its baneful ,effects-- ,freemasons--,marriages and ,funerals--,litigation--,mr4 ,canto's ,illness--,bad ,behavior of his ,slaves--,an ,entertainment--,ideas on ,free ,labor--,loss of ,american ,cotton-seed--,abundance of ,cotton in the country--,sickness of ,sekeletu's ,horse--,eclipse of the ,sun--,insects which distill ,water--,experiments with them--,proceed to ,ambaca--,sickly ,season--,office of ,commandant-- ,punishment of official ,delinquents--,present from ,mr4 ,schut of ,loanda--,visit ,pungo ,andongo--,its good ,pasturage1 ,grain1 ,fruit1 etc4--,the ,fort and columnar ,rocks--,the ,queen of ,jinga-- ,salubrity of ,pungo ,andongo--,price of a ,slave--,a ,merchant- prince--,his ,hospitality--,hear of the ,loss of my ,papers in ,forerunner--,narrow ,escape from an ,alligator--,ancient ,burial- places--,neglect of ,agriculture in ,angola--,manioc the staple ,product--,its ,cheapness--,sickness--,friendly ,visit from a colored ,priest--,the ,prince of ,congo--,no ,priests in the ,interior of ,angola4 ,chapter #bb4 ,leave ,pungo ,andongo--,extent of ,portuguese ,power-- ,meet ,traders and ,carriers--,red ,ants2 their fierce ,attack2 ,usefulness2 ,numbers--,descend the ,heights of ,tala ,mungongo-- ,fruit-trees in the ,valley of ,cassange--,edible ,muscle--,birds-- ,cassange ,village--,quinine and ,cathory--,sickness of ,captain ,neves' ,infant--,a ,diviner thrashed--,death of the ,child-- ,mourning--,loss of ,life from the ,ordeal--,wide-spread ,superstitions--,the ,chieftainship--,charms--,receive ,copies of the ,times--,trading ,pombeiros--,present for ,matiamvo--,fever after westerly ,winds--,capabilities of ,angola for producing the raw ,materials of ,english ,manufacture--,trading ,parties with ,ivory--,more ,fever--,a ,hyaena's ,choice--,makololo ,opinion of the ,portuguese--,cypriano's ,debt--,a ,funeral--,dread of disembodied ,spirits--,beautiful ,morning ,scenes--,crossing the ,quango-- ,ambakistas called ,the ,jews of ,angola--,fashions of the ,bashinje--,approach the ,village of ,sansawe--,his ,idea of ,dignity--,the ,pombeiros' ,present--,long ,detention--,a ,blow on the ,beard--,attacked in a ,forest--,sudden ,conversion of a fighting ,chief to ,peace ,principles by means of a ,revolver--,no ,blood shed in consequence--,rate of ,traveling--,slave ,women--,way of addressing ,slaves--,their thievish ,propensities--,feeders of the ,congo or ,zaire--,obliged to refuse ,presents--,cross the ,loajima-- ,appearance of ,people2 ,hair ,fashions4 ,chapter #bc4 ,make a ,detour southward--,peculiarities of the ,inhabitants--,scarcity of ,animals--,forests--,geological ,structure of the ,country--,abundance and ,cheapness of ,food near the ,chihombo--,a ,slave lost--,the ,makololo ,opinion of ,slaveholders--,funeral ,obsequies in ,cabango--,send a ,sketch of the ,country to ,mr4 ,gabriel--,native ,information respecting the ,kasai and ,quango--,the ,trade with ,luba--,drainage of ,londa-- ,report of ,matiamvo's ,country and ,government--,senhor ,faria's ,present to a ,chief--,the ,balonda ,mode of spending ,time-- ,faithless ,guide--,makololo lament the ,ignorance of the ,balonda-- ,eagerness of the ,villagers for ,trade--,civility of a ,female ,chief--,the ,chief ,bango and his ,people--,refuse to eat ,beef-- ,ambition of ,africans to have a ,village--,winters in the ,interior--,spring at ,kolobeng--,white ,ants3 ,never could desire to eat any thing better--,young ,herbage and ,animals--,valley of the ,loembwe--,the white ,man a ,hobgoblin--,specimen of ,quarreling--,eager ,desire for ,calico--,want of ,clothing at ,kawawa's--,funeral ,observances--,agreeable ,intercourse with ,kawawa--,his impudent ,demand--,unpleasant ,parting--,kawawa tries to prevent our crossing the ,river ,kasai--,stratagem4 ,chapter #bd4 ,level ,plains--,vultures and other ,birds--,diversity of ,color in ,flowers of the same ,species--,the ,sundew--,twenty- seventh ,attack of ,fever--,a ,river which flows in opposite ,directions--,lake ,dilolo the ,watershed between the ,atlantic and ,indian ,oceans--,position of ,rocks--,sir ,roderick ,murchison's ,explanation--,characteristics of the ,rainy ,season in connection with the ,floods of the ,zambesi and the ,nile--,probable ,reason of ,difference in ,amount of ,rain ,south and ,north of the ,equator--,arab ,reports of ,region east of ,londa--,probable ,watershed of the ,zambesi and the ,nile--,lake ,dilolo--,reach ,katema's ,town3 his renewed ,hospitality2 desire to appear like a ,white ,man2 ludicrous ,departure--,jackdaws--,ford southern ,branch of ,lake ,dilolo--,small ,fish--,project for a ,makololo ,village near the ,confluence of the ,leeba and the ,leeambye-- ,hearty ,welcome from ,shinte--,kolimbota's ,wound--,plant-seeds and ,fruit-trees brought from ,angola--,masiko and ,limboa's ,quarrel-- ,nyamoana now a ,widow--,purchase ,canoes and descend the ,leeba-- ,herds of wild ,animals on its ,banks--,unsuccessful ,buffalo- hunt--,frogs--,sinbad and the ,tsetse--,dispatch a ,message to ,manenko--,arrival of her ,husband ,sambanza--,the ,ceremony called ,kasendi--,unexpected ,fee for performing a surgical ,operation-- ,social ,condition of the ,tribes--,desertion of ,mboenga-- ,stratagem of ,mambowe ,hunters--,water-turtles--,charged by a ,buffalo--,reception from the ,people of ,libonta--,explain the ,causes of our long ,delay--,pitsane's ,speech--,thanksgiving ,services--,appearance of my ,braves--,wonderful ,kindness of the ,people4 ,chapter #be4 ,colony of ,birds called ,linkololo--,the ,village of ,chitlane--,murder of ,mpololo's ,daughter--,execution of the ,murderer and his ,wife--,my ,companions find that their ,wives have married other ,husbands--,sunday--,a ,party from ,masiko-- ,freedom of ,speech--,canoe struck by a ,hippopotamus--,gonye-- ,appearance of ,trees at the end of ,winter--,murky ,atmosphere-- ,surprising ,amount of organic ,life--,hornets--,the ,packages forwarded by ,mr4 ,moffat--,makololo ,suspicions and ,reply to the ,matebele who brought them--,convey the ,goods to an ,island and build a ,hut over them--,ascertain that ,sir ,r4 ,murchison had recognized the true ,form of ,african ,continent--,arrival at ,linyanti--,a grand ,picho--,shrewd ,inquiry--,sekeletu in his ,uniform--,a ,trading-party sent to ,loanda with ,ivory--,mr4 ,gabriel's ,kindness to them--,difficulties in ,trading--,two ,makololo ,forays during our ,absence--,report of the ,country to the ,n4,e4--,death of influential ,men--,the ,makololo desire to be nearer the ,market--,opinions upon a ,change of ,residence-- ,climate of ,barotse ,valley--,diseases--,author's ,fevers not a fair ,criterion in the ,matter--,the ,interior an inviting ,field for the ,philanthropist--,consultations about a ,path to the ,east ,coast--,decide on descending ,north ,bank of ,zambesi--,wait for the ,rainy ,season--,native way of spending ,time during the period of greatest ,heat--,favorable ,opening for ,missionary ,enterprise--,ben ,habib wishes to marry--,a ,maiden's ,choice-- ,sekeletu's ,hospitality--,sulphureted ,hydrogen and ,malaria-- ,conversations with ,makololo--,their moral ,character and ,conduct--,sekeletu wishes to purchase a ,sugar-mill1 etc4--,the ,donkeys--,influence among the ,natives--,food fit for a ,chief-- ,parting ,words of ,mamire--,motibe's ,excuses4 ,chapter #bf4 ,departure from ,linyanti--,a ,thunder-storm--,an ,act of genuine ,kindness--,fitted out a second time by the ,makololo-- ,sail down the ,leeambye--,sekote's ,kotla and human ,skulls2 his ,grave adorned with ,elephants' ,tusks--,victoria ,falls--,native ,names--,columns of ,vapor--,gigantic ,crack--,wear of the ,rocks-- ,shrines of the ,barimo--,the ,pestle of the ,gods--,second ,visit to the ,falls--,island ,garden--,store-house ,island--,native ,diviners--,a ,european ,diviner--,makololo ,foray--,marauder to be fined--,mambari--,makololo wish to stop ,mambari ,slave-trading-- ,part with ,sekeletu--,night ,traveling--,river ,lekone--,ancient fresh-water ,lakes--,formation of ,lake ,ngami--,native ,traditions-- ,drainage of the ,great ,valley--,native ,reports of the ,country to the ,north--,maps--,moyara's ,village--,savage ,customs of the ,batoka--,a ,chain of ,trading ,stations--,remedy against ,tsetse-- ,the ,well of ,joy--,first ,traces of ,trade with ,europeans-- ,knocking out the front ,teeth--,facetious ,explanation-- ,degradation of the ,batoka--,description of the ,traveling ,party-- ,cross the ,unguesi--,geological ,formation--,ruins of a large ,town--,productions of the ,soil similar to those in ,angola-- ,abundance of ,fruit4 ,chapter #bg4 ,low ,hills--,black ,soldier-,ants2 their ,cannibalism-- ,the ,plasterer and its ,chloroform--,white ,ants2 their ,usefulness--,mutokwane-smoking2 its ,effects--,border ,territory-- ,healthy ,table-lands--,geological ,formation--,cicadae--,trees-- ,flowers--,river ,kalomo--,physical ,conformation of ,country-- ,ridges1 sanatoria--,a wounded ,buffalo assisted--,buffalo-bird-- ,rhinoceros-bird--,leaders of ,herds--,the ,honey-guide--,the ,white ,mountain--,mozuma ,river--,sebituane's old ,home--,hostile ,village-- ,prophetic ,phrensy--,food of the ,elephant--,ant-hills--,friendly ,batoka--,clothing despised--,method of ,salutation--,wild ,fruits-- ,the ,captive released--,longings for ,peace--,pingola's ,conquests-- ,the ,village of ,monze--,aspect of the ,country--,visit from the ,chief ,monze and his ,wife--,central healthy ,locations--,friendly ,feelings of the ,people in reference to a white ,resident-- ,fertility of the ,soil--,bashukulompo ,mode of dressing their ,hair--,gratitude of the ,prisoner we released--,kindness and ,remarks of ,monze's ,sister--,dip of the ,rocks--,vegetation-- ,generosity of the ,inhabitants--,their ,anxiety for ,medicine-- ,hooping-cough--,birds and ,rain4 ,chapter #bh4 ,beautiful ,valley--,buffalo--,my young ,men kill two ,elephants--,the ,hunt--,mode of measuring ,height of live ,elephants--,wild ,animals smaller here than in the ,south1 though their ,food is more abundant--,the ,elephant a dainty ,feeder-- ,semalembue--,his ,presents--,joy in prospect of living in ,peace-- ,trade--,his ,people's way of wearing their ,hair--,their ,mode of ,salutation--,old ,encampment--,sebituane's former ,residence--,ford of ,kafue--,hippopotami--,hills and ,villages--,geological ,formation--,prodigious ,quantities of large ,game--,their ,tameness--,rains--,less ,sickness than in the ,journey to ,loanda-- ,reason--,charge from an ,elephant--,vast ,amount of animal ,life on the ,zambesi--,water of ,river discolored--,an ,island with ,buffaloes and ,men on it--,native ,devices for killing ,game-- ,tsetse now in ,country--,agricultural ,industry--,an ,albino murdered by his ,mother--,guilty of ,tlolo--,women who make their ,mouths like those of ,ducks--,first ,symptom of the ,slave-trade on this side--,selole's ,hostility--,an armed ,party hoaxed--,an ,italian ,marauder slain--,elephant's ,tenacity of ,life--,a ,word to young ,sportsmen--,mr4 ,oswell's ,adventure with an ,elephant2 narrow ,escape--,mburuma's ,village--,suspicious ,conduct of his ,people--,guides attempt to detain us--,the ,village and ,people of ,ma ,mburuma--,character our ,guides give of us4 ,chapter #bi4 ,confluence of ,loangwa and ,zambesi--,hostile ,appearances--,ruins of a ,church--,turmoil of ,spirit--,cross the ,river--,friendly ,parting--,ruins of stone ,houses--,the ,situation of ,zumbo for ,commerce--,pleasant ,gardens--,dr4 ,lacerda's ,visit to ,cazembe--,pereira's ,statement--,unsuccessful ,attempt to establish ,trade with the ,people of ,cazembe--,one of my ,men tossed by a ,buffalo--,meet a ,man with ,jacket and ,hat on--,hear of the ,portuguese and native ,war--,holms and ,terraces on the ,banks of a ,river--,dancing for ,corn--,beautiful ,country-- ,mpende's ,hostility--,incantations--,a ,fight anticipated--,courage and ,remarks of my ,men--,visit from two old ,councilors of ,mpende--,their ,opinion of the ,english--,mpende concludes not to fight us--,his subsequent ,friendship--,aids us to cross the ,river--,the ,country--,sweet ,potatoes--,bakwain ,theory of ,rain confirmed--,thunder without ,clouds--,desertion of one of my ,men-- ,other ,natives' ,ideas of the ,english--,dalama 7gold7-- ,inhabitants dislike ,slave-buyers--,meet native ,traders with ,american ,calico--,game-laws--,elephant ,medicine--,salt from the ,sand--,fertility of ,soil--,spotted ,hyaena--,liberality and ,politeness of the ,people--,presents--,a stingy white ,trader-- ,natives' ,remarks about him--,effect on their ,minds--,rain and ,wind now from an opposite ,direction--,scarcity of ,fuel--,trees for ,boat-building--,boroma--,freshets--,lea ve the ,river--,chicova1 its ,geological ,features--,small ,rapid near ,tete--,loquacious ,guide--,nyampungo1 the ,rain-charmer--,an old ,man--,no ,silver-- ,gold-washing--,no ,cattle4 ,chapter #cj4 ,an ,elephant-hunt--,offering and ,prayers to the ,barimo for ,success--,native ,mode of ,expression--,working of ,game-laws--,a ,feast--,laughing ,hyaenas--,numerous ,insects-- ,curious ,notes of ,birds of ,song--,caterpillars--,butterflies-- ,silica--,the ,fruit ,makoronga and ,elephants--,rhinoceros ,adventure--,korwe ,bird--,its ,nest--,a real ,confinement--,honey and ,beeswax--,superstitious ,reverence for the ,lion--,slow ,traveling-- ,grapes--,the ,ue--,monina's ,village--,native ,names--,government of the ,banyai--,electing a ,chief--,youths instructed in ,bonyai-- ,suspected of ,falsehood--,war-dance--,insanity and ,disappearance of ,monahin--,fruitless ,search--,monina's ,sympathy--,the ,sand- river ,tangwe--,the ,ordeal ,muavi3 its ,victims--,an unreasonable ,man--,woman's ,rights--,presents--,temperance--,a winding ,course to shun ,villages--,banyai ,complexion and ,hair--,mushrooms--,the ,tubers1 ,mokuri--,the ,tree ,shekabakadzi--,face of the ,country-- ,pot-holes--,pursued by a ,party of ,natives--,unpleasant ,threat-- ,aroused by a ,company of ,soldiers--,a civilized ,breakfast-- ,arrival at ,tete4 ,chapter #ca4 ,kind ,reception from the ,commandant--,his ,generosity to my ,men--,the ,village of ,tete--,the ,population--,distilled ,spirits--,the ,fort--,cause of the ,decadence of ,portuguese ,power-- ,former ,trade--,slaves employed in ,gold-washing--,slave-trade drained the ,country of ,laborers--,the ,rebel ,nyaude's ,stockade-- ,he burns ,tete--,kisaka's ,revolt and ,ravages--,extensive ,field of ,sugar-cane--,the ,commandant's good ,reputation among the ,natives--,providential ,guidance--,seams of ,coal--,a hot ,spring-- ,picturesque ,country--,water-carriage to the ,coal-fields-- ,workmen's ,wages--,exports--,price of ,provisions--,visit ,gold- washings--,the ,process of obtaining the precious ,metal--,coal within a ,gold-field--,present from ,major ,sicard--,natives raise ,wheat1 etc4--,liberality of the ,commandant--,geographical ,information from ,senhor ,candido--,earthquakes--,native ,ideas of a ,supreme ,being--,also of the ,immortality and ,transmigration of ,souls--,fondness for ,display at ,funerals--,trade ,restrictions-- ,former ,jesuit ,establishment--,state of ,religion and ,education at ,tete--,inundation of the ,zambesi--,cotton cultivated--,the fibrous ,plants ,conge and ,buaze--,detained by ,fever--,the ,kumbanzo ,bark--,native ,medicines--,iron1 its ,quality--,hear of ,famine at ,kilimane--,death of a ,portuguese ,lady--,the ,funeral-- ,disinterested ,kindness of the ,portuguese4 ,chapter #cb4 ,leave ,tete and proceed down the ,river--,pass the ,stockade of ,bonga--,gorge of ,lupata--,spine of the ,world-- ,width of ,river--,islands--,war ,drum at ,shiramba--,canoe ,navigation--,reach ,senna--,its ruinous ,state--,landeens levy ,fines upon the ,inhabitants--,cowardice of native ,militia--,state of the ,revenue--,no direct ,trade with ,portugal--,attempts to revive the ,trade of ,eastern ,africa--,country round ,senna-- ,gorongozo1 a ,jesuit ,station--,manica1 the best ,gold ,region in ,eastern ,africa--,boat-building at ,senna--,our ,departure--,capture of a ,rebel ,stockade--,plants ,alfacinya and ,njefu at the ,confluence of the ,shire--,landeen ,opinion of the ,whites-- ,mazaro1 the point reached by ,captain ,parker--,his ,opinion respecting the ,navigation of the ,river from this to the ,ocean-- ,lieutenant ,hoskins' ,remarks on the same subject--,fever1 its ,effects--,kindly received into the ,house of ,colonel ,nunes at ,kilimane--,forethought of ,captain ,nolloth and ,dr4 ,walsh--,joy imbittered--,deep ,obligations to the ,earl of ,clarendon1 etc4-- ,on developing ,resources of the ,interior--,desirableness of ,missionary ,societies selecting healthy ,stations--,arrangements on leaving my ,men--,retrospect--,probable ,influence of the ,discoveries on ,slavery--,supply of ,cotton1 ,sugar1 etc41 by ,free ,labor--,commercial ,stations--,development of the ,resources of ,africa a ,work of ,time--,site of ,kilimane--,unhealthiness--,death of a shipwrecked ,crew from ,fever--,the ,captain saved by ,quinine--,arrival of ,h4 ,m4 ,brig ,frolic--,anxiety of one of my ,men to go to ,england--,rough ,passage in the ,boats to the ,ship-- ,sekwebu's ,alarm--,sail for ,mauritius--,sekwebu on board2 he becomes insane2 drowns himself--,kindness of ,major-,general ,c4 ,m4 ,hay--,escape ,shipwreck--,reach ,home4 ,appendix4--,latitudes and ,longitudes of ,positions4 ,appendix4--,book ,review in ,harper's ,new ,monthly ,magazine1 ,february1 #aheh4 ,appendix4--,notes to etext4 ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,missionary ,travels and ,researches in ,south ,africa4 ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,introduction4 ,personal ,sketch--,highland ,ancestors--,family ,traditions--,grandfather removes to the ,lowlands--,parents--,early ,labors and ,efforts --,evening ,school--,love of ,reading--,religious ,impressions--,medical ,education--,youthful ,travels--,geology--,mental ,discipline--,study in ,glasgow--,london ,missionary ,society--,native ,village--,medical ,diploma--,theological ,studies--,departure for ,africa--,no ,claim to ,literary ,accomplishments4 ,my own inclination would lead me to say as little as possible about myself2 but several friends1 in whose judgment ,i have confidence1 have suggested that1 as the reader likes to know something about the author1 a short account of his origin and early life would lend additional interest to this book4 ,such is my excuse for the following egotism2 and1 if an apology be necessary for giving a genealogy1 ,i find it in the fact that it is not very long1 and contains only one incident of which ,i have reason to be proud4 ,our great-grandfather fell at the battle of ,culloden1 fighting for the old line of kings2 and our grandfather was a small farmer in ,ulva1 where my father was born4 ,it is one of that cluster of the ,hebrides thus alluded to by ,walter ,scott3 ,and ,ulva dark1 and ,colonsay1 ,and all the group of islets gay ,that guard famed ,staffa round499 99 ,lord of the ,isles1 canto #d4 ,our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the traditionary legends which that great writer has since made use of in the ,tales of a ,grandfather and other works4 ,as a boy ,i remember listening to him with delight1 for his memory was stored with a never-ending stock of stories1 many of which were wonderfully like those ,i have since heard while sitting by the ,african evening fires4 ,our grandmother1 too1 used to sing ,gaelic songs1 some of which1 as she believed1 had been composed by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the ,turks4 ,grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his ancestors for six generations of the family before him2 and the only point of the tradition ,i feel proud of is this3 ,one of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in the district for great wisdom and prudence2 and it is related that1 when he was on his death-bed1 he called all his children around him and said1 ,now1 in my lifetime1 ,i have searched most carefully through all the traditions ,i could find of our family1 and ,i never could discover that there was a dishonest man among our forefathers4 ,if1 therefore1 any of you or any of your children should take to dishonest ways1 it will not be because it runs in our blood3 it does not belong to you4 ,i leave this precept with you3 ,be honest4 ,if1 therefore1 in the following pages ,i fall into any errors1 ,i hope they will be dealt with as honest mistakes1 and not as indicating that ,i have forgotten our ancient motto4 ,this event took place at a time when the ,highlanders1 according to ,macaulay1 were much like the ,cape ,caffres1 and any one1 it was said1 could escape punishment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain4 ,our ancestors were ,roman ,catholics2 they were made ,protestants by the laird coming round with a man having a yellow staff1 which would seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching1 for the new religion went long afterward1 perhaps it does so still1 by the name of the religion of the yellow stick4 ,finding his farm in ,ulva insufficient to support a numerous family1 my grandfather removed to ,blantyre ,works1 a large cotton manufactory on the beautiful ,clyde1 above ,glasgow2 and his sons1 having had the best education the ,hebrides afforded1 were gladly received as clerks by the proprietors1 ,monteith and ,co4 ,he himself1 highly esteemed for his unflinching honesty1 was employed in the conveyance of large sums of money from ,glasgow to the works1 and in old age was1 according to the custom of that company1 pensioned off1 so as to spend his declining years in ease and comfort4 ,our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the last ,french war1 either as soldiers or sailors2 but my father remained at home1 and1 though too conscientious ever to become rich as a small tea-dealer1 by his kindliness of manner and winning ways he made the heart-strings of his children twine around him as firmly as if he had possessed1 and could have bestowed upon them1 every worldly advantage4 ,he reared his children in connection with the ,kirk of ,scotland--a religious establishment which has been an incalculable blessing to that country--but he afterward left it1 and during the last twenty years of his life held the office of deacon of an independent church in ,hamilton1 and deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me1 from my infancy1 with a continuously consistent pious example1 such as that ideal of which is so beautifully and truthfully portrayed in ,burns's ,cottar's ,saturday ,night4 ,he died in ,february1 #ahef1 in peaceful hope of that mercy which we all expect through the death of our ,lord and ,savior4 ,i was at the time on my way below ,zumbo1 expecting no greater pleasure in this country than sitting by our cottage fire and telling him my travels4 ,i revere his memory4 ,the earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture so often seen among the ,scottish poor--that of the anxious housewife striving to make both ends meet4 ,at the age of ten ,i was put into the factory as a piecer1 to aid by my earnings in lessening her anxiety4 ,with a part of my first week's wages ,i purchased ,ruddiman's ,rudiments of ,latin1 and pursued the study of that language for many years afterward1 with unabated ardor1 at an evening school1 which met between the hours of eight and ten4 ,the dictionary part of my labors was followed up till twelve o'clock1 or later1 if my mother did not interfere by jumping up and snatching the books out of my hands4 ,i had to be back in the factory by six in the morning1 and continue my work1 with intervals for breakfast and dinner1 till eight o'clock at night4 ,i read in this way many of the classical authors1 and knew ,virgil and ,horace better at sixteen than ,i do now4 ,our schoolmaster--happily still alive--was supported in part by the company2 he was attentive and kind1 and so moderate in his charges that all who wished for education might have obtained it4 ,many availed themselves of the privilege2 and some of my schoolfellows now rank in positions far above what they appeared ever likely to come to when in the village school4 ,if such a system were established in ,england1 it would prove a never-ending blessing to the poor4 ,in reading1 every thing that ,i could lay my hands on was devoured except novels4 ,scientific works and books of travels were my especial delight2 though my father1 believing1 with many of his time who ought to have known better1 that the former were inimical to religion1 would have preferred to have seen me poring over the ,cloud of ,witnesses1 or ,boston's ,fourfold ,state4 ,our difference of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on my part1 and his last application of the rod was on my refusal to peruse ,wilberforce's ,practical ,christianity4 ,this dislike to dry doctrinal reading1 and to religious reading of every sort1 continued for years afterward2 but having lighted on those admirable works of ,dr4 ,thomas ,dick1 ,the ,philosophy of ,religion and ,the ,philosophy of a ,future ,state1 it was gratifying to find my own ideas1 that religion and science are not hostile1 but friendly to each other1 fully proved and enforced4 ,great pains had been taken by my parents to instill the doctrines of ,christianity into my mind1 and ,i had no difficulty in understanding the theory of our free salvation by the atonement of our ,savior1 but it was only about this time that ,i really began to feel the necessity and value of a personal application of the provisions of that atonement to my own case4 ,the change was like what may be supposed would take place were it possible to cure a case of color blindness4 ,the perfect freeness with which the pardon of all our guilt is offered in ,god's book drew forth feelings of affectionate love to ,him who bought us with his blood1 and a sense of deep obligation to ,him for his mercy has influenced1 in some small measure1 my conduct ever since4 ,but ,i shall not again refer to the inner spiritual life which ,i believe then began1 nor do ,i intend to specify with any prominence the evangelistic labors to which the love of ,christ has since impelled me4 ,this book will speak1 not so much of what has been done1 as of what still remains to be performed1 before the ,gospel can be said to be preached to all nations4 ,in the glow of love which ,christianity inspires1 ,i soon resolved to devote my life to the alleviation of human misery4 ,turning this idea over in my mind1 ,i felt that to be a pioneer of ,christianity in ,china might lead to the material benefit of some portions of that immense empire2 and therefore set myself to obtain a medical education1 in order to be qualified for that enterprise4 ,in recognizing the plants pointed out in my first medical book1 that extraordinary old work on astrological medicine1 ,culpeper's ,herbal1 ,i had the guidance of a book on the plants of ,lanarkshire1 by ,patrick4 ,limited as my time was1 ,i found opportunities to scour the whole country-side1 collecting simples4 ,deep and anxious were my studies on the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of astrology1 and ,i believe ,i got as far into that abyss of phantasies as my author said he dared to lead me4 ,it seemed perilous ground to tread on farther1 for the dark hint seemed to my youthful mind to loom toward selling soul and body to the devil1 as the price of the unfathomable knowledge of the stars4 ,these excursions1 often in company with brothers1 one now in ,canada1 and the other a clergyman in the ,united ,states1 gratified my intense love of nature2 and though we generally returned so unmercifully hungry and fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears1 yet we discovered1 to us1 so many new and interesting things1 that he was always as eager to join us next time as he was the last4 ,on one of these exploring tours we entered a limestone quarry--long before geology was so popular as it is now4 ,it is impossible to describe the delight and wonder with which ,i began to collect the shells found in the carboniferous limestone which crops out in ,high ,blantyre and ,cambuslang4 ,a quarry-man1 seeing a little boy so engaged1 looked with that pitying eye which the benevolent assume when viewing the insane4 ,addressing him with1 ,how ever did these shells come into these rocks8 ,when ,god made the rocks1 he made the shells in them1 was the damping reply4 ,what a deal of trouble geologists might have saved themselves by adopting the ,turk-like philosophy of this ,scotchman6 ,my reading while at work was carried on by placing the book on a portion of the spinning-jenny1 so that ,i could catch sentence after sentence as ,i passed at my work2 ,i thus kept up a pretty constant study undisturbed by the roar of the machinery4 ,to this part of my education ,i owe my present power of completely abstracting the mind from surrounding noises1 so as to read and write with perfect comfort amid the play of children or near the dancing and songs of savages4 ,the toil of cotton-spinning1 to which ,i was promoted in my nineteenth year1 was excessively severe on a slim1 loose-jointed lad1 but it was well paid for2 and it enabled me to support myself while attending medical and ,greek classes in ,glasgow in winter1 as also the divinity lectures of ,dr4 ,wardlaw1 by working with my hands in summer4 ,i never received a farthing of aid from any one1 and should have accomplished my project of going to ,china as a medical missionary1 in the course of time1 by my own efforts1 had not some friends advised my joining the ,london ,missionary ,society on account of its perfectly unsectarian character4 ,it sends neither ,episcopacy1 nor ,presbyterianism1 nor ,independency1 but the ,gospel of ,christ to the heathen4 ,this exactly agreed with my ideas of what a missionary society ought to do2 but it was not without a pang that ,i offered myself1 for it was not quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way to become in a measure dependent on others2 and ,i would not have been much put about though my offer had been rejected4 ,looking back now on that life of toil1 ,i can not but feel thankful that it formed such a material part of my early education2 and1 were it possible1 ,i should like to begin life over again in the same lowly style1 and to pass through the same hardy training4 ,time and travel have not effaced the feelings of respect ,i imbibed for the humble inhabitants of my native village4 ,for morality1 honesty1 and intelligence1 they were1 in general1 good specimens of the ,scottish poor4 ,in a population of more than two thousand souls1 we had1 of course1 a variety of character4 ,in addition to the common run of men1 there were some characters of sterling worth and ability1 who exerted a most beneficial influence on the children and youth of the place by imparting gratuitous religious instruction499 ,much intelligent interest was felt by the villagers in all public questions1 and they furnished a proof that the possession of the means of education did not render them an unsafe portion of the population4 ,they felt kindly toward each other1 and much respected those of the neighboring gentry who1 like the late ,lord ,douglas1 placed some confidence in their sense of honor4 ,through the kindness of that nobleman1 the poorest among us could stroll at pleasure over the ancient domains of ,bothwell1 and other spots hallowed by the venerable associations of which our school-books and local traditions made us well aware2 and few of us could view the dear memorials of the past without feeling that these carefully kept monuments were our own4 ,the masses of the working-people of ,scotland have read history1 and are no revolutionary levelers4 ,they rejoice in the memories of ,wallace and ,bruce and a' the lave1 who are still much revered as the former champions of freedom4 ,and while foreigners imagine that we want the spirit only to overturn capitalists and aristocracy1 we are content to respect our laws till we can change them1 and hate those stupid revolutions which might sweep away time-honored institutions1 dear alike to rich and poor4 99 ,the reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of these most worthy men--,david ,hogg1 who addressed me on his death-bed with the words1 ,now1 lad1 make religion the every- day business of your life1 and not a thing of fits and starts2 for if you do not1 temptation and other things will get the better of you2 and ,thomas ,burke1 an old ,forty-second ,peninsula soldier1 who has been incessant and never weary in good works for about forty years4 ,i was delighted to find him still alive2 men like these are an honor to their country and profession4 ,having finished the medical curriculum and presented a thesis on a subject which required the use of the stethoscope for its diagnosis1 ,i unwittingly procured for myself an examination rather more severe and prolonged than usual among examining bodies4 ,the reason was1 that between me and the examiners a slight difference of opinion existed as to whether this instrument could do what was asserted4 ,the wiser plan would have been to have had no opinion of my own4 ,however1 ,i was admitted a ,licentiate of ,faculty of ,physicians and ,surgeons4 ,it was with unfeigned delight ,i became a member of a profession which is pre-eminently devoted to practical benevolence1 and which with unwearied energy pursues from age to age its endeavors to lessen human woe4 ,but though now qualified for my original plan1 the opium war was then raging1 and it was deemed inexpedient for me to proceed to ,china4 ,i had fondly hoped to have gained access to that then closed empire by means of the healing art2 but there being no prospect of an early peace with the ,chinese1 and as another inviting field was opening out through the labors of ,mr4 ,moffat1 ,i was induced to turn my thoughts to ,africa2 and after a more extended course of theological training in ,england than ,i had enjoyed in ,glasgow1 ,i embarked for ,africa in #ahdj1 and1 after a voyage of three months1 reached ,cape ,town4 ,spending but a short time there1 ,i started for the interior by going round to ,algoa ,bay1 and soon proceeded inland1 and have spent the following sixteen years of my life1 namely1 from #ahdj to #ahef1 in medical and missionary labors there without cost to the inhabitants4 ,as to those literary qualifications which are acquired by habits of writing1 and which are so important to an author1 my ,african life has not only not been favorable to the growth of such accomplishments1 but quite the reverse2 it has made composition irksome and laborious4 ,i think ,i would rather cross the ,african continent again than undertake to write another book4 ,it is far easier to travel than to write about it4 ,i intended on going to ,africa to continue my studies2 but as ,i could not brook the idea of simply entering into other men's labors made ready to my hands1 ,i entailed on myself1 in addition to teaching1 manual labor in building and other handicraft work1 which made me generally as much exhausted and unfit for study in the evenings as ever ,i had been when a cotton-spinner4 ,the want of time for self-improvement was the only source of regret that ,i experienced during my ,african career4 ,the reader1 remembering this1 will make allowances for the mere gropings for light of a student who has the vanity to think himself not yet too old to learn4 ,more precise information on several subjects has necessarily been omitted in a popular work like the present2 but ,i hope to give such details to the scientific reader through some other channel4 ,chapter #a4 ,the ,bakwain ,country--,study of the ,language--,native ,ideas regarding ,comets--,mabotsa ,station--,a ,lion ,encounter--,virus of the ,teeth of ,lions--,names of the ,bechuana ,tribes--,sechele--,his ,ancestors--,obtains the ,chieftainship--,his ,marriage and ,government--,the ,kotla--,first public ,religious ,services--,sechele's ,questions--,he ,learns to ,read--,novel mode for ,converting his ,tribe--,surprise at their ,indifference-- ,polygamy--,baptism of ,sechele--,opposition of the ,natives--,purchase ,land at ,chonuane--,relations with the ,people--,their ,intelligence--,prolonged ,drought--,consequent ,trials--,rain-medicine--,god's ,word blamed--,native ,reasoning--,rain-maker--,dispute between ,rain ,doctor and ,medical ,doctor--,the ,hunting ,hopo--,salt or animal ,food a necessary of ,life--,duties of a ,missionary4 ,the general instructions ,i received from the ,directors of the ,london ,missionary ,society led me1 as soon as ,i reached ,kuruman or ,lattakoo1 then1 as it is now1 their farthest inland station from the ,cape1 to turn my attention to the north4 ,without waiting longer at ,kuruman than was necessary to recruit the oxen1 which were pretty well tired by the long journey from ,algoa ,bay1 ,i proceeded1 in company with another missionary1 to the ,bakuena or ,bakwain country1 and found ,sechele1 with his tribe1 located at ,shokuane4 ,we shortly after retraced our steps to ,kuruman2 but as the objects in view were by no means to be attained by a temporary excursion of this sort1 ,i determined to make a fresh start into the interior as soon as possible4 ,accordingly1 after resting three months at ,kuruman1 which is a kind of head station in the country1 ,i returned to a spot about fifteen miles south of ,shokuane1 called ,lepelole 7now ,litubaruba74 ,here1 in order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the language1 ,i cut myself off from all ,european society for about six months1 and gained by this ordeal an insight into the habits1 ways of thinking1 laws1 and language of that section of the ,bechuanas called ,bakwains1 which has proved of incalculable advantage in my intercourse with them ever since4 ,in this second journey to ,lepelole--so called from a cavern of that name--,i began preparations for a settlement1 by making a canal to irrigate gardens1 from a stream then flowing copiously1 but now quite dry4 ,when these preparations were well advanced1 ,i went northward to visit the ,bakaa and ,bamangwato1 and the ,makalaka1 living between #bb ,degrees and #bc ,degrees south latitude4 ,the ,bakaa ,mountains had been visited before by a trader1 who1 with his people1 all perished from fever4 ,in going round the northern part of these basaltic hills near ,letloche ,i was only ten days distant from the lower part of the ,zouga1 which passed by the same name as ,lake ,ngami299 and ,i might then 7in #ahdb7 have discovered that lake1 had discovery alone been my object4 ,most part of this journey beyond ,shokuane was performed on foot1 in consequence of the draught oxen having become sick4 ,some of my companions who had recently joined us1 and did not know that ,i understood a little of their speech1 were overheard by me discussing my appearance and powers3 ,he is not strong2 he is quite slim1 and only appears stout because he puts himself into those bags 7trowsers72 he will soon knock up4 ,this caused my ,highland blood to rise1 and made me despise the fatigue of keeping them all at the top of their speed for days together1 and until ,i heard them expressing proper opinions of my pedestrian powers4 99 ,several words in the ,african languages begin with the ringing sound heard in the end of the word com,i,n,g4 ,if the reader puts an 'i' to the beginning of the name of the lake1 as ,ingami1 and then sounds the 'i' as little as possible1 he will have the correct pronunciation4 ,the ,spanish n ny is employed to denote this sound1 and ,ngami is spelt nyami--naka means a tusk1 nyaka a doctor4 ,every vowel is sounded in all native words1 and the emphasis in pronunciation is put upon the penultimate4 ,returning to ,kuruman1 in order to bring my luggage to our proposed settlement1 ,i was followed by the news that the tribe of ,bakwains1 who had shown themselves so friendly toward me1 had been driven from ,lepelole by the ,barolongs1 so that my prospects for the time of forming a settlement there were at an end4 ,one of those periodical outbreaks of war1 which seem to have occurred from time immemorial1 for the possession of cattle1 had burst forth in the land1 and had so changed the relations of the tribes to each other1 that ,i was obliged to set out anew to look for a suitable locality for a mission station4 ,in going north again1 a comet blazed on our sight1 exciting the wonder of every tribe we visited4 ,that of #ahaf had been followed by an irruption of the ,matebele1 the most cruel enemies the ,bechuanas ever knew1 and this they thought might portend something as bad1 or it might only foreshadow the death of some great chief4 ,on this subject of comets ,i knew little more than they did themselves1 but ,i had that confidence in a kind1 overruling ,providence1 which makes such a difference between ,christians and both the ancient and modern heathen4 ,as some of the ,bamangwato people had accompanied me to ,kuruman1 ,i was obliged to restore them and their goods to their chief ,sekomi4 ,this made a journey to the residence of that chief again necessary1 and1 for the first time1 ,i performed a distance of some hundred miles on ox-back4 ,returning toward ,kuruman1 ,i selected the beautiful valley of ,mabotsa 7lat4 #be;d #ad' south1 long4 #bf;d #cj'87 as the site of a missionary station1 and thither ,i removed in #ahdc4 ,here an occurrence took place concerning which ,i have frequently been questioned in ,england1 and which1 but for the importunities of friends1 ,i meant to have kept in store to tell my children when in my dotage4 ,the ,bakatla of the village ,mabotsa were much troubled by lions1 which leaped into the cattle-pens by night1 and destroyed their cows4 ,they even attacked the herds in open day4 ,this was so unusual an occurrence that the people believed that they were bewitched--given1 as they said1 into the power of the lions by a neighboring tribe4 ,they went once to attack the animals1 but1 being rather a cowardly people compared to ,bechuanas in general on such occasions1 they returned without killing any4 ,it is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed1 the others take the hint and leave that part of the country4 ,so1 the next time the herds were attacked1 ,i went with the people1 in order to encourage them to rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying one of the marauders4 ,we found the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length1 and covered with trees4 ,a circle of men was formed round it1 and they gradually closed up1 ascending pretty near to each other4 ,being down below on the plain with a native schoolmaster1 named ,mebalwe1 a most excellent man1 ,i saw one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the now closed circle of men4 ,mebalwe fired at him before ,i could1 and the ball struck the rock on which the animal was sitting4 ,he bit at the spot struck1 as a dog does at a stick or stone thrown at him2 then leaping away1 broke through the opening circle and escaped unhurt4 ,the men were afraid to attack him1 perhaps on account of their belief in witchcraft4 ,when the circle was re-formed1 we saw two other lions in it2 but we were afraid to fire lest we should strike the men1 and they allowed the beasts to burst through also4 ,if the ,bakatla had acted according to the custom of the country1 they would have speared the lions in their attempt to get out4 ,seeing we could not get them to kill one of the lions1 we bent our footsteps toward the village2 in going round the end of the hill1 however1 ,i saw one of the beasts sitting on a piece of rock as before1 but this time he had a little bush in front4 ,being about thirty yards off1 ,i took a good aim at his body through the bush1 and fired both barrels into it4 ,the men then called out1 ,he is shot1 he is shot6 ,others cried1 ,he has been shot by another man too2 let us go to him6 ,i did not see any one else shoot at him1 but ,i saw the lion's tail erected in anger behind the bush1 and1 turning to the people1 said1 ,stop a little1 till ,i load again4 ,when in the act of ramming down the bullets1 ,i heard a shout4 ,starting1 and looking half round1 ,i saw the lion just in the act of springing upon me4 ,i was upon a little height2 he caught my shoulder as he sprang1 and we both came to the ground below together4 ,growling horribly close to my ear1 he shook me as a terrier dog does a rat4 ,the shock produced a stupor similar to that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of the cat4 ,it caused a sort of dreaminess1 in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror1 though quite conscious of all that was happening4 ,it was like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform describe1 who see all the operation1 but feel not the knife4 ,this singular condition was not the result of any mental process4 ,the shake annihilated fear1 and allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the beast4 ,this peculiar state is probably produced in all animals killed by the carnivora2 and if so1 is a merciful provision by our benevolent ,creator for lessening the pain of death4 ,turning round to relieve myself of the weight1 as he had one paw on the back of my head1 ,i saw his eyes directed to ,mebalwe1 who was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen yards4 ,his gun1 a flint one1 missed fire in both barrels2 the lion immediately left me1 and1 attacking ,mebalwe1 bit his thigh4 ,another man1 whose life ,i had saved before1 after he had been tossed by a buffalo1 attempted to spear the lion while he was biting ,mebalwe4 ,he left ,mebalwe and caught this man by the shoulder1 but at that moment the bullets he had received took effect1 and he fell down dead4 ,the whole was the work of a few moments1 and must have been his paroxysms of dying rage4 ,in order to take out the charm from him1 the ,bakatla on the following day made a huge bonfire over the carcass1 which was declared to be that of the largest lion they had ever seen4 ,besides crunching the bone into splinters1 he left eleven teeth wounds on the upper part of my arm4 ,a wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot wound2 it is generally followed by a great deal of sloughing and discharge1 and pains are felt in the part periodically ever afterward4 ,i had on a tartan jacket on the occasion1 and ,i believe that it wiped off all the virus from the teeth that pierced the flesh1 for my two companions in this affray have both suffered from the peculiar pains1 while ,i have escaped with only the inconvenience of a false joint in my limb4 ,the man whose shoulder was wounded showed me his wound actually burst forth afresh on the same month of the following year4 ,this curious point deserves the attention of inquirers4 ,the different ,bechuana tribes are named after certain animals1 showing probably that in former times they were addicted to animal-worship like the ancient ,egyptians4 ,the term ,bakatla means they of the monkey2 ,bakuena1 they of the alligator2 ,batlapi1 they of the fish3 each tribe having a superstitious dread of the animal after which it is called4 ,they also use the word bina1 to dance1 in reference to the custom of thus naming themselves1 so that1 when you wish to ascertain what tribe they belong to1 you say1 ,what do you dance8 ,it would seem as if that had been a part of the worship of old4 ,a tribe never eats the animal which is its namesake1 using the term ila1 hate or dread1 in reference to killing it4 ,we find traces of many ancient tribes in the country in individual members of those now extinct1 as the ,batau1 they of the lion2 the ,banoga1 they of the serpent2 though no such tribes now exist4 ,the use of the personal pronoun they1 ,ba-,ma1 ,wa1 ,va or ,ova1 ,am-,ki1 c41 prevails very extensively in the names of tribes in ,africa4 ,a single individual is indicated by the terms ,mo or ,le4 ,thus ,mokwain is a single person of the ,bakwain tribe1 and ,lekoa is a single white man or ,englishman--,makoa being ,englishmen4 ,i attached myself to the tribe called ,bakuena or ,bakwains1 the chief of which1 named ,sechele1 was then living with his people at a place called ,shokuane4 ,i was from the first struck by his intelligence1 and by the marked manner in which we both felt drawn to each other4 ,as this remarkable man has not only embraced ,christianity1 but expounds its doctrines to his people1 ,i will here give a brief sketch of his career4 ,his great-grandfather ,mochoasele was a great traveler1 and the first that ever told the ,bakwains of the existence of white men4 ,in his father's lifetime two white travelers1 whom ,i suppose to have been ,dr4 ,cowan and ,captain ,donovan1 passed through the country 7in #ahjh71 and1 descending the ,river ,limpopo1 were1 with their party1 all cut off by fever4 ,the rain-makers there1 fearing lest their wagons might drive away the rain1 ordered them to be thrown into the river4 ,this is the true account of the end of that expedition1 as related to me by the son of the chief at whose village they perished4 ,he remembered1 when a boy1 eating part of one of the horses1 and said it tasted like zebra's flesh4 ,thus they were not killed by the ,bangwaketse1 as reported1 for they passed the ,bakwains all well4 ,the ,bakwains were then rich in cattle2 and as one of the many evidences of the desiccation of the country1 streams are pointed out where thousands and thousands of cattle formerly drank1 but in which water now never flows1 and where a single herd could not find fluid for its support4 ,when ,sechele was still a boy1 his father1 also called ,mochoasele1 was murdered by his own people for taking to himself the wives of his rich under-chiefs4 ,the children being spared1 their friends invited ,sebituane1 the chief of the ,makololo1 who was then in those parts1 to reinstate them in the chieftainship4 ,sebituane surrounded the town of the ,bakwains by night2 and just as it began to dawn1 his herald proclaimed in a loud voice that he had come to revenge the death of ,mochoasele4 ,this was followed by ,sebituane's people beating loudly on their shields all round the town4 ,the panic was tremendous1 and the rush like that from a theatre on fire1 while the ,makololo used their javelins on the terrified ,bakwains with a dexterity which they alone can employ4 ,sebituane had given orders to his men to spare the sons of the chief2 and one of them1 meeting ,sechele1 put him in ward by giving him such a blow on the head with a club as to render him insensible4 ,the usurper was put to death2 and ,sechele1 reinstated in his chieftainship1 felt much attached to ,sebituane4 ,the circumstances here noticed ultimately led me1 as will be seen by-and-by1 into the new1 well-watered country to which this same ,sebituane had preceded me by many years4 ,sechele married the daughters of three of his under-chiefs1 who had1 on account of their blood relationship1 stood by him in his adversity4 ,this is one of the modes adopted for cementing the allegiance of a tribe4 ,the government is patriarchal1 each man being1 by virtue of paternity1 chief of his own children4 ,they build their huts around his1 and the greater the number of children1 the more his importance increases4 ,hence children are esteemed one of the greatest blessings1 and are always treated kindly4 ,near the centre of each circle of huts there is a spot called a kotla1 with a fireplace2 here they work1 eat1 or sit and gossip over the news of the day4 ,a poor man attaches himself to the kotla of a rich one1 and is considered a child of the latter4 ,an under-chief has a number of these circles around his2 and the collection of kotlas around the great one in the middle of the whole1 that of the principal chief1 constitutes the town4 ,the circle of huts immediately around the kotla of the chief is composed of the huts of his wives and those of his blood relations4 ,he attaches the under-chiefs to himself and his government by marrying1 as ,sechele did1 their daughters1 or inducing his brothers to do so4 ,they are fond of the relationship to great families4 ,if you meet a party of strangers1 and the head man's relationship to some uncle of a certain chief is not at once proclaimed by his attendants1 you may hear him whispering1 ,tell him who ,i am4 ,this usually involves a counting on the fingers of a part of his genealogical tree1 and ends in the important announcement that the head of the party is half-cousin to some well-known ruler4 ,sechele was thus seated in his chieftainship when ,i made his acquaintance4 ,on the first occasion in which ,i ever attempted to hold a public religious service1 he remarked that it was the custom of his nation1 when any new subject was brought before them1 to put questions on it2 and he begged me to allow him to do the same in this case4 ,on expressing my entire willingness to answer his questions1 he inquired if my forefathers knew of a future judgment4 ,i replied in the affirmative1 and began to describe the scene of the great white throne1 and ,him who shall sit on it1 from whose face the heaven and earth shall flee away1 c4 ,he said1 ,you startle me3 these words make all my bones to shake2 ,i have no more strength in me2 but my forefathers were living at the same time yours were1 and how is it that they did not send them word about these terrible things sooner8 ,they all passed away into darkness without knowing whither they were going4 ,i got out of the difficulty by explaining the geographical barriers in the ,north1 and the gradual spread of knowledge from the ,south1 to which we first had access by means of ships2 and ,i expressed my belief that1 as ,christ had said1 the whole world would yet be enlightened by the ,gospel4 ,pointing to the great ,kalahari desert1 he said1 ,you never can cross that country to the tribes beyond2 it is utterly impossible even for us black men1 except in certain seasons1 when more than the usual supply of rain falls1 and an extraordinary growth of watermelons follows4 ,even we who know the country would certainly perish without them4 ,reasserting my belief in the words of ,christ1 we parted2 and it will be seen farther on that ,sechele himself assisted me in crossing that desert which had previously proved an insurmountable barrier to so many adventurers4 ,as soon as he had an opportunity of learning1 he set himself to read with such close application that1 from being comparatively thin1 the effect of having been fond of the chase1 he became quite corpulent from want of exercise4 ,mr4 ,oswell gave him his first lesson in figures1 and he acquired the alphabet on the first day of my residence at ,chonuane4 ,he was by no means an ordinary specimen of the people1 for ,i never went into the town but ,i was pressed to hear him read some chapters of the ,bible4 ,isaiah was a great favorite with him2 and he was wont to use the same phrase nearly which the professor of ,greek at ,glasgow1 ,sir ,d4 ,k4 ,sandford1 once used respecting the ,apostle ,paul1 when reading his speeches in the ,acts3 ,he was a fine fellow1 that ,paul6 ,he was a fine man1 that ,isaiah2 he knew how to speak4 ,sechele invariably offered me something to eat on every occasion of my visiting him4 ,seeing me anxious that his people should believe the words of ,christ1 he once said1 ,do you imagine these people will ever believe by your merely talking to them8 ,i can make them do nothing except by thrashing them2 and if you like1 ,i shall call my head men1 and with our litupa 7whips of rhinoceros hide7 we will soon make them all believe together4 ,the idea of using entreaty and persuasion to subjects to become ,christians--whose opinion on no other matter would he condescend to ask--was especially surprising to him4 ,he considered that they ought only to be too happy to embrace ,christianity at his command4 ,during the space of two years and a half he continued to profess to his people his full conviction of the truth of ,christianity2 and in all discussions on the subject he took that side1 acting at the same time in an upright manner in all the relations of life4 ,he felt the difficulties of his situation long before ,i did1 and often said1 ,oh1 ,i wish you had come to this country before ,i became entangled in the meshes of our customs6 ,in fact1 he could not get rid of his superfluous wives1 without appearing to be ungrateful to their parents1 who had done so much for him in his adversity4 ,in the hope that others would be induced to join him in his attachment to ,christianity1 he asked me to begin family worship with him in his house4 ,i did so2 and by-and-by was surprised to hear how well he conducted the prayer in his own simple and beautiful style1 for he was quite a master of his own language4 ,at this time we were suffering from the effects of a drought1 which will be described further on1 and none except his family1 whom he ordered to attend1 came near his meeting4 ,in former times1 said he1 when a chief was fond of hunting1 all his people got dogs1 and became fond of hunting too4 ,if he was fond of dancing or music1 all showed a liking to these amusements too4 ,if the chief loved beer1 they all rejoiced in strong drink4 ,but in this case it is different4 ,i love the ,word of ,god1 and not one of my brethren will join me4 ,one reason why we had no volunteer hypocrites was the hunger from drought1 which was associated in their minds with the presence of ,christian instruction2 and hypocrisy is not prone to profess a creed which seems to insure an empty stomach4 ,sechele continued to make a consistent profession for about three years2 and perceiving at last some of the difficulties of his case1 and also feeling compassion for the poor women1 who were by far the best of our scholars1 ,i had no desire that he should be in any hurry to make a full profession by baptism1 and putting away all his wives but one4 ,his principal wife1 too1 was about the most unlikely subject in the tribe ever to become any thing else than an out-and-out greasy disciple of the old school4 ,she has since become greatly altered1 ,i hear1 for the better2 but again and again have ,i seen ,sechele send her out of church to put her gown on1 and away she would go with her lips shot out1 the very picture of unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions4 ,when he at last applied for baptism1 ,i simply asked him how he1 having the ,bible in his hand1 and able to read it1 thought he ought to act4 ,he went home1 gave each of his superfluous wives new clothing1 and all his own goods1 which they had been accustomed to keep in their huts for him1 and sent them to their parents with an intimation that he had no fault to find with them1 but that in parting with them he wished to follow the will of ,god4 ,on the day on which he and his children were baptized1 great numbers came to see the ceremony4 ,some thought1 from a stupid calumny circulated by enemies to ,christianity in the south1 that the converts would be made to drink an infusion of dead men's brains1 and were astonished to find that water only was used at baptism4 ,seeing several of the old men actually in tears during the service1 ,i asked them afterward the cause of their weeping2 they were crying to see their father1 as the ,scotch remark over a case of suicide1 ,,so ,,far ,,left ,,to ,,himself4 ,they seemed to think that ,i had thrown the glamour over him1 and that he had become mine4 ,here commenced an opposition which we had not previously experienced4 ,all the friends of the divorced wives became the opponents of our religion4 ,the attendance at school and church diminished to very few besides the chief's own family4 ,they all treated us still with respectful kindness1 but to ,sechele himself they said things which1 as he often remarked1 had they ventured on in former times1 would have cost them their lives4 ,it was trying1 after all we had done1 to see our labors so little appreciated2 but we had sown the good seed1 and have no doubt but it will yet spring up1 though we may not live to see the fruits4 ,leaving this sketch of the chief1 ,i proceed to give an equally rapid one of our dealing with his people1 the ,bakena1 or ,bakwains4 ,a small piece of land1 sufficient for a garden1 was purchased when we first went to live with them1 though that was scarcely necessary in a country where the idea of buying land was quite new4 ,it was expected that a request for a suitable spot would have been made1 and that we should have proceeded to occupy it as any other member of the tribe would4 ,but we explained to them that we wished to avoid any cause of future dispute when land had become more valuable2 or when a foolish chief began to reign1 and we had erected large or expensive buildings1 he might wish to claim the whole4 ,these reasons were considered satisfactory4 ,about #e ,pounds worth of goods were given for a piece of land1 and an arrangement was come to that a similar piece should be allotted to any other missionary1 at any other place to which the tribe might remove4 ,the particulars of the sale sounded strangely in the ears of the tribe1 but were nevertheless readily agreed to4 ,in our relations with this people we were simply strangers exercising no authority or control whatever4 ,our influence depended entirely on persuasion2 and having taught them by kind conversation as well as by public instruction1 ,i expected them to do what their own sense of right and wrong dictated4 ,we never wished them to do right merely because it would be pleasing to us1 nor thought ourselves to blame when they did wrong1 although we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect4 ,we saw that our teaching did good to the general mind of the people by bringing new and better motives into play4 ,five instances are positively known to me in which1 by our influence on public opinion1 war was prevented2 and where1 in individual cases1 we failed1 the people did no worse than they did before we came into the country4 ,in general they were slow1 like all the ,african people hereafter to be described1 in coming to a decision on religious subjects2 but in questions affecting their worldly affairs they were keenly alive to their own interests4 ,they might be called stupid in matters which had not come within the sphere of their observation1 but in other things they showed more intelligence than is to be met with in our own uneducated peasantry4 ,they are remarkably accurate in their knowledge of cattle1 sheep1 and goats1 knowing exactly the kind of pasturage suited to each2 and they select with great judgment the varieties of soil best suited to different kinds of grain4 ,they are also familiar with the habits of wild animals1 and in general are well up in the maxims which embody their ideas of political wisdom4 ,the place where we first settled with the ,bakwains is called ,chonuane1 and it happened to be visited1 during the first year of our residence there1 by one of those droughts which occur from time to time in even the most favored districts of ,africa4 ,the belief in the gift or power of ,,rain-,,making is one of the most deeply-rooted articles of faith in this country4 ,the chief ,sechele was himself a noted rain-doctor1 and believed in it implicitly4 ,he has often assured me that he found it more difficult to give up his faith in that than in any thing else which ,christianity required him to abjure4 ,i pointed out to him that the only feasible way of watering the gardens was to select some good1 never-failing river1 make a canal1 and irrigate the adjacent lands4 ,this suggestion was immediately adopted1 and soon the whole tribe was on the move to the ,kolobeng1 a stream about forty miles distant4 ,the experiment succeeded admirably during the first year4 ,the ,bakwains made the canal and dam in exchange for my labor in assisting to build a square house for their chief4 ,they also built their own school under my superintendence4 ,our house at the ,river ,kolobeng1 which gave a name to the settlement1 was the third which ,i had reared with my own hands4 ,a native smith taught me to weld iron2 and having improved by scraps of information in that line from ,mr4 ,moffat1 and also in carpentering and gardening1 ,i was becoming handy at almost any trade1 besides doctoring and preaching2 and as my wife could make candles1 soap1 and clothes1 we came nearly up to what may be considered as indispensable in the accomplishments of a missionary family in ,central ,africa1 namely1 the husband to be a jack-of-all-trades without doors1 and the wife a maid-of-all-work within4 ,but in our second year again no rain fell4 ,in the third the same extraordinary drought followed4 ,indeed1 not ten inches of water fell during these two years1 and the ,kolobeng ran dry2 so many fish were killed that the hyaenas from the whole country round collected to the feast1 and were unable to finish the putrid masses4 ,a large old alligator1 which had never been known to commit any depredations1 was found left high and dry in the mud among the victims4 ,the fourth year was equally unpropitious1 the fall of rain being insufficient to bring the grain to maturity4 ,nothing could be more trying4 ,we dug down in the bed of the river deeper and deeper as the water receded1 striving to get a little to keep the fruit-trees alive for better times1 but in vain4 ,needles lying out of doors for months did not rust2 and a mixture of sulphuric acid and water1 used in a galvanic battery1 parted with all its water to the air1 instead of imbibing more from it1 as it would have done in ,england4 ,the leaves of indigenous trees were all drooping1 soft1 and shriveled1 though not dead2 and those of the mimosae were closed at midday1 the same as they are at night4 ,in the midst of this dreary drought1 it was wonderful to see those tiny creatures1 the ants1 running about with their accustomed vivacity4 ,i put the bulb of a thermometer three inches under the soil1 in the sun1 at midday1 and found the mercury to stand at #acb ,deg4 to #acd ,deg42 and if certain kinds of beetles were placed on the surface1 they ran about a few seconds and expired4 ,but this broiling heat only augmented the activity of the long-legged black ants3 they never tire2 their organs of motion seem endowed with the same power as is ascribed by physiologists to the muscles of the human heart1 by which that part of the frame never becomes fatigued1 and which may be imparted to all our bodily organs in that higher sphere to which we fondly hope to rise4 ,where do these ants get their moisture8 ,our house was built on a hard ferruginous conglomerate1 in order to be out of the way of the white ant1 but they came in despite the precaution2 and not only were they1 in this sultry weather1 able individually to moisten soil to the consistency of mortar for the formation of galleries1 which1 in their way of working1 is done by night 7so that they are screened from the observation of birds by day in passing and repassing toward any vegetable matter they may wish to devour71 but1 when their inner chambers were laid open1 these were also surprisingly humid4 ,yet there was no dew1 and1 the house being placed on a rock1 they could have no subterranean passage to the bed of the river1 which ran about three hundred yards below the hill4 ,can it be that they have the power of combining the oxygen and hydrogen of their vegetable food by vital force so as to form water899 99 ,when we come to ,angola1 ,i shall describe an insect there which distills several pints of water every night4 ,rain1 however1 would not fall4 ,the ,bakwains believed that ,i had bound ,sechele with some magic spell1 and ,i received deputations1 in the evenings1 of the old counselors1 entreating me to allow him to make only a few showers3 ,the corn will die if you refuse1 and we shall become scattered4 ,only let him make rain this once1 and we shall all1 men1 women1 and children1 come to the school1 and sing and pray as long as you please4 ,it was in vain to protest that ,i wished ,sechele to act just according to his own ideas of what was right1 as he found the law laid down in the ,bible1 and it was distressing to appear hard-hearted to them4 ,the clouds often collected promisingly over us1 and rolling thunder seemed to portend refreshing showers1 but next morning the sun would rise in a clear1 cloudless sky2 indeed1 even these lowering appearances were less frequent by far than days of sunshine are in ,london4 ,the natives1 finding it irksome to sit and wait helplessly until ,god gives them rain from heaven1 entertain the more comfortable idea that they can help themselves by a variety of preparations1 such as charcoal made of burned bats1 inspissated renal deposit of the mountain cony--',hyrax capensis'--7which1 by the way1 is used1 in the form of pills1 as a good antispasmodic1 under the name of stone-sweat9971 the internal parts of different animals--as jackals' livers1 baboons' and lions' hearts1 and hairy calculi from the bowels of old cows--serpents' skins and vertebrae1 and every kind of tuber1 bulb1 root1 and plant to be found in the country4 ,although you disbelieve their efficacy in charming the clouds to pour out their refreshing treasures1 yet1 conscious that civility is useful every where1 you kindly state that you think they are mistaken as to their power4 ,the rain-doctor selects a particular bulbous root1 pounds it1 and administers a cold infusion to a sheep1 which in five minutes afterward expires in convulsions4 ,part of the same bulb is converted into smoke1 and ascends toward the sky2 rain follows in a day or two4 ,the inference is obvious4 ,were we as much harassed by droughts1 the logic would be irresistible in ,england in #aheg4 99 ,the name arises from its being always voided on one spot1 in the manner practiced by others of the rhinocerontine family2 and1 by the action of the sun1 it becomes a black1 pitchy substance4 ,as the ,bakwains believed that there must be some connection between the presence of ,god's ,word in their town and these successive and distressing droughts1 they looked with no good will at the church bell1 but still they invariably treated us with kindness and respect4 ,i am not aware of ever having had an enemy in the tribe4 ,the only avowed cause of dislike was expressed by a very influential and sensible man1 the uncle of ,sechele4 ,we like you as well as if you had been born among us2 you are the only white man we can become familiar with 7thoaela72 but we wish you to give up that everlasting preaching and praying2 we can not become familiar with that at all4 ,you see we never get rain1 while those tribes who never pray as we do obtain abundance4 ,this was a fact2 and we often saw it raining on the hills ten miles off1 while it would not look at us even with one eye4 ,if the ,prince of the power of the air had no hand in scorching us up1 ,i fear ,i often gave him the credit of doing so4 ,as for the rain-makers1 they carried the sympathies of the people along with them1 and not without reason4 ,with the following arguments they were all acquainted1 and in order to understand their force1 we must place ourselves in their position1 and believe1 as they do1 that all medicines act by a mysterious charm4 ,the term for cure may be translated charm 7'alaha'74 ,,medical ,,doctor4 ,hail1 friend6 ,how very many medicines you have about you this morning6 ,why1 you have every medicine in the country here4 ,,rain ,,doctor4 ,very true1 my friend2 and ,i ought2 for the whole country needs the rain which ,i am making4 ,m4 ,d4 ,so you really believe that you can command the clouds8 ,i think that can be done by ,god alone4 ,r4 ,d4 ,we both believe the very same thing4 ,it is ,god that makes the rain1 but ,i pray to him by means of these medicines1 and1 the rain coming1 of course it is then mine4 ,it was ,i who made it for the ,bakwains for many years1 when they were at ,shokuane2 through my wisdom1 too1 their women became fat and shining4 ,ask them2 they will tell you the same as ,i do4 ,m4 ,d4 ,but we are distinctly told in the parting words of our ,savior that we can pray to ,god acceptably in his name alone1 and not by means of medicines4 ,r4 ,d4 ,truly6 but ,god told us differently4 ,he made black men first1 and did not love us as he did the white men4 ,he made you beautiful1 and gave you clothing1 and guns1 and gunpowder1 and horses1 and wagons1 and many other things about which we know nothing4 ,but toward us he had no heart4 ,he gave us nothing except the assegai1 and cattle1 and rain-making2 and he did not give us hearts like yours4 ,we never love each other4 ,other tribes place medicines about our country to prevent the rain1 so that we may be dispersed by hunger1 and go to them1 and augment their power4 ,we must dissolve their charms by our medicines4 ,god has given us one little thing1 which you know nothing of4 ,he has given us the knowledge of certain medicines by which we can make rain4 ,,we do not despise those things which you possess1 though we are ignorant of them4 ,we don't understand your book1 yet we don't despise it4 ,,you ought not to despise our little knowledge1 though you are ignorant of it4 ,m4 ,d4 ,i don't despise what ,i am ignorant of2 ,i only think you are mistaken in saying that you have medicines which can influence the rain at all4 ,r4 ,d4 ,that's just the way people speak when they talk on a subject of which they have no knowledge4 ,when we first opened our eyes1 we found our forefathers making rain1 and we follow in their footsteps4 ,you1 who send to ,kuruman for corn1 and irrigate your garden1 may do without rain2 ,,we can not manage in that way4 ,if we had no rain1 the cattle would have no pasture1 the cows give no milk1 our children become lean and die1 our wives run away to other tribes who do make rain and have corn1 and the whole tribe become dispersed and lost2 our fire would go out4 ,m4 ,d4 ,i quite agree with you as to the value of the rain2 but you can not charm the clouds by medicines4 ,you wait till you see the clouds come1 then you use your medicines1 and take the credit which belongs to ,god only4 ,r4 ,d4 ,i use my medicines1 and you employ yours2 we are both doctors1 and doctors are not deceivers4 ,you give a patient medicine4 ,sometimes ,god is pleased to heal him by means of your medicine2 sometimes not--he dies4 ,when he is cured1 you take the credit of what ,god does4 ,i do the same4 ,sometimes ,god grants us rain1 sometimes not4 ,when he does1 we take the credit of the charm4 ,when a patient dies1 you don't give up trust in your medicine1 neither do ,i when rain fails4 ,if you wish me to leave off my medicines1 why continue your own8 ,m4 ,d4 ,i give medicine to living creatures within my reach1 and can see the effects1 though no cure follows2 you pretend to charm the clouds1 which are so far above us that your medicines never reach them4 ,the clouds usually lie in one direction1 and your smoke goes in another4 ,god alone can command the clouds4 ,only try and wait patiently2 ,god will give us rain without your medicines4 ,r4 ,d4 ,mahala-ma-kapa-a-a66 ,well1 ,i always thought white men were wise till this morning4 ,who ever thought of making trial of starvation8 ,is death pleasant1 then8 ,m4 ,d4 ,could you make it rain on one spot and not on another8 ,r4 ,d4 ,i wouldn't think of trying4 ,i like to see the whole country green1 and all the people glad2 the women clapping their hands1 and giving me their ornaments for thankfulness1 and lullilooing for joy4 ,m4 ,d4 ,i think you deceive both them and yourself4 ,r4 ,d4 ,well1 then1 there is a pair of us 7meaning both are rogues74 ,the above is only a specimen of their way of reasoning1 in which1 when the language is well understood1 they are perceived to be remarkably acute4 ,these arguments are generally known1 and ,i never succeeded in convincing a single individual of their fallacy1 though ,i tried to do so in every way ,i could think of4 ,their faith in medicines as charms is unbounded4 ,the general effect of argument is to produce the impression that you are not anxious for rain at all2 and it is very undesirable to allow the idea to spread that you do not take a generous interest in their welfare4 ,an angry opponent of rain-making in a tribe would be looked upon as were some ,greek merchants in ,england during the ,russian war4 ,the conduct of the people during this long-continued drought was remarkably good4 ,the women parted with most of their ornaments to purchase corn from more fortunate tribes4 ,the children scoured the country in search of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain life1 and the men engaged in hunting4 ,very great numbers of the large game1 buffaloes1 zebras1 giraffes1 tsessebes1 kamas or hartebeests1 kokongs or gnus1 pallahs1 rhinoceroses1 etc41 congregated at some fountains near ,kolobeng1 and the trap called hopo was constructed1 in the lands adjacent1 for their destruction4 ,the hopo consists of two hedges in the form of the letter ,v1 which are very high and thick near the angle4 ,instead of the hedges being joined there1 they are made to form a lane of about fifty yards in length1 at the extremity of which a pit is formed1 six or eight feet deep1 and about twelve or fifteen in breadth and length4 ,trunks of trees are laid across the margins of the pit1 and more especially over that nearest the lane where the animals are expected to leap in1 and over that farthest from the lane where it is supposed they will attempt to escape after they are in4 ,the trees form an overlapping border1 and render escape almost impossible4 ,the whole is carefully decked with short green rushes1 making the pit like a concealed pitfall4 ,as the hedges are frequently about a mile long1 and about as much apart at their extremities1 a tribe making a circle three or four miles round the country adjacent to the opening1 and gradually closing up1 are almost sure to inclose a large body of game4 ,driving it up with shouts to the narrow part of the hopo1 men secreted there throw their javelins into the affrighted herds1 and on the animals rush to the opening presented at the converging hedges1 and into the pit1 till that is full of a living mass4 ,some escape by running over the others1 as a ,smithfield market-dog does over the sheep's backs4 ,it is a frightful scene4 ,the men1 wild with excitement1 spear the lovely animals with mad delight2 others of the poor creatures1 borne down by the weight of their dead and dying companions1 every now and then make the whole mass heave in their smothering agonies4 ,the ,bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy head of large game at the different hopos in a single week2 and as every one1 both rich and poor1 partook of the prey1 the meat counteracted the bad effects of an exclusively vegetable diet4 ,when the poor1 who had no salt1 were forced to live entirely on roots1 they were often troubled with indigestion4 ,such cases we had frequent opportunities of seeing at other times1 for1 the district being destitute of salt1 the rich alone could afford to buy it4 ,the native doctors1 aware of the cause of the malady1 usually prescribed some of that ingredient with their medicines4 ,the doctors themselves had none1 so the poor resorted to us for aid4 ,we took the hint1 and henceforth cured the disease by giving a teaspoonful of salt1 minus the other remedies4 ,either milk or meat had the same effect1 though not so rapidly as salt4 ,long afterward1 when ,i was myself deprived of salt for four months1 at two distinct periods1 ,i felt no desire for that condiment1 but ,i was plagued by very great longing for the above articles of food4 ,this continued as long as ,i was confined to an exclusively vegetable diet1 and when ,i procured a meal of flesh1 though boiled in perfectly fresh rain-water1 it tasted as pleasantly saltish as if slightly impregnated with the condiment4 ,milk or meat1 obtained in however small quantities1 removed entirely the excessive longing and dreaming about roasted ribs of fat oxen1 and bowls of cool thick milk gurgling forth from the big-bellied calabashes2 and ,i could then understand the thankfulness to ,mrs4 ,l4 often expressed by poor ,bakwain women1 in the interesting condition1 for a very little of either4 ,in addition to other adverse influences1 the general uncertainty1 though not absolute want of food1 and the necessity of frequent absence for the purpose of either hunting game or collecting roots and fruits1 proved a serious barrier to the progress of the people in knowledge4 ,our own education in ,england is carried on at the comfortable breakfast and dinner table1 and by the cosy fire1 as well as in the church and school4 ,few ,english people with stomachs painfully empty would be decorous at church any more than they are when these organs are overcharged4 ,ragged schools would have been a failure had not the teachers wisely provided food for the body as well as food for the mind2 and not only must we show a friendly interest in the bodily comfort of the objects of our sympathy as a ,christian duty1 but we can no more hope for healthy feelings among the poor1 either at home or abroad1 without feeding them into them1 than we can hope to see an ordinary working-bee reared into a queen-mother by the ordinary food of the hive4 ,sending the ,gospel to the heathen must1 if this view be correct1 include much more than is implied in the usual picture of a missionary1 namely1 a man going about with a ,bible under his arm4 ,the promotion of commerce ought to be specially attended to1 as this1 more speedily than any thing else1 demolishes that sense of isolation which heathenism engenders1 and makes the tribes feel themselves mutually dependent on1 and mutually beneficial to each other4 ,with a view to this1 the missionaries at ,kuruman got permission from the government for a trader to reside at the station1 and a considerable trade has been the result2 the trader himself has become rich enough to retire with a competence4 ,those laws which still prevent free commercial intercourse among the civilized nations seem to be nothing else but the remains of our own heathenism4 ,my observations on this subject make me extremely desirous to promote the preparation of the raw materials of ,european manufactures in ,africa1 for by that means we may not only put a stop to the slave-trade1 but introduce the negro family into the body corporate of nations1 no one member of which can suffer without the others suffering with it4 ,success in this1 in both ,eastern and ,western ,africa1 would lead1 in the course of time1 to a much larger diffusion of the blessings of civilization than efforts exclusively spiritual and educational confined to any one small tribe4 ,these1 however1 it would of course be extremely desirable to carry on at the same time at large central and healthy stations1 for neither civilization nor ,christianity can be promoted alone4 ,in fact1 they are inseparable4 ,chapter #b4 ,the ,boers--,their ,treatment of the ,natives--,seizure of native ,children for ,slaves--,english ,traders--,alarm of the ,boers--,native ,espionage--,the ,tale of the ,cannon--,the ,boers threaten ,sechele--,in violation of ,treaty1 they stop ,english ,traders and expel ,missionaries--,they attack the ,bakwains--,their ,mode of ,fighting--,the ,natives killed and the ,school-children carried into ,slavery--,destruction of ,english ,property--,african ,housebuilding and ,housekeeping--,mode of ,spending the ,day--,scarcity of ,food--,locusts--,edible ,frogs--,scavenger ,beetle--,continued ,hostility of the ,boers--,the ,journey north--,preparations--,fellow-travelers- -,the ,kalahari ,desert-- ,vegetation--,watermelons--,the ,inhabitants--,the ,bushmen--,their nomad ,mode of ,life--,appearance--,the ,bakalahari--,their ,love for ,agriculture and for domestic ,animals--,timid ,character--,mode of obtaining ,water--,female ,water-suckers--,the ,desert--,water hidden4 ,another adverse influence with which the mission had to contend was the vicinity of the ,boers of the ,cashan ,mountains1 otherwise named ,magaliesberg4 ,these are not to be counfounded with the ,cape colonists1 who sometimes pass by the name4 ,the word ,boer simply means farmer1 and is not synonymous with our word boor4 ,indeed1 to the ,boers generally the latter term would be quite inappropriate1 for they are a sober1 industrious1 and most hospitable body of peasantry4 ,those1 however1 who have fled from ,english law on various pretexts1 and have been joined by ,english deserters and every other variety of bad character in their distant localities1 are unfortunately of a very different stamp4 ,the great objection many of the ,boers had1 and still have1 to ,english law1 is that it makes no distinction between black men and white4 ,they felt aggrieved by their supposed losses in the emancipation of their ,hottentot slaves1 and determined to erect themselves into a republic1 in which they might pursue1 without molestation1 the proper treatment of the blacks4 ,it is almost needless to add that the proper treatment has always contained in it the essential element of slavery1 namely1 compulsory unpaid labor4 ,one section of this body1 under the late ,mr4 ,hendrick ,potgeiter1 penetrated the interior as far as the ,cashan ,mountains1 whence a ,zulu or ,caffre chief1 named ,mosilikatze1 had been expelled by the well-known ,caffre ,dingaan2 and a glad welcome was given them by the ,bechuana tribes1 who had just escaped the hard sway of that cruel chieftain4 ,they came with the prestige of white men and deliverers2 but the ,bechuanas soon found1 as they expressed it1 that ,mosilikatze was cruel to his enemies1 and kind to those he conquered2 but that the ,boers destroyed their enemies1 and made slaves of their friends4 ,the tribes who still retain the semblance of independence are forced to perform all the labor of the fields1 such as manuring the land1 weeding1 reaping1 building1 making dams and canals1 and at the same time to support themselves4 ,i have myself been an eye-witness of ,boers coming to a village1 and1 according to their usual custom1 demanding twenty or thirty women to weed their gardens1 and have seen these women proceed to the scene of unrequited toil1 carrying their own food on their heads1 their children on their backs1 and instruments of labor on their shoulders4 ,nor have the ,boers any wish to conceal the meanness of thus employing unpaid labor2 on the contrary1 every one of them1 from ,mr4 ,potgeiter and ,mr4 ,gert ,krieger1 the commandants1 downward1 lauded his own humanity and justice in making such an equitable regulation4 ,we make the people work for us1 in consideration of allowing them to live in our country4 ,i can appeal to the ,commandant ,krieger if the foregoing is not a fair and impartial statement of the views of himself and his people4 ,i am sensible of no mental bias toward or against these ,boers2 and during the several journeys ,i made to the poor enslaved tribes1 ,i never avoided the whites1 but tried to cure and did administer remedies to their sick1 without money and without price4 ,it is due to them to state that ,i was invariably treated with respect2 but it is most unfortunate that they should have been left by their own ,church for so many years to deteriorate and become as degraded as the blacks1 whom the stupid prejudice against color leads them to detest4 ,this new species of slavery which they have adopted serves to supply the lack of field-labor only4 ,the demand for domestic servants must be met by forays on tribes which have good supplies of cattle4 ,the ,portuguese can quote instances in which blacks become so degraded by the love of strong drink as actually to sell themselves2 but never in any one case1 within the memory of man1 has a ,bechuana chief sold any of his people1 or a ,bechuana man his child4 ,hence the necessity for a foray to seize children4 ,and those individual ,boers who would not engage in it for the sake of slaves can seldom resist the two-fold plea of a well-told story of an intended uprising of the devoted tribe1 and the prospect of handsome pay in the division of the captured cattle besides4 ,it is difficult for a person in a civilized country to conceive that any body of men possessing the common attributes of humanity 7and these ,boers are by no means destitute of the better feelings of our nature7 should with one accord set out1 after loading their own wives and children with caresses1 and proceed to shoot down in cold blood men and women1 of a different color1 it is true1 but possessed of domestic feelings and affections equal to their own4 ,i saw and conversed with children in the houses of ,boers who had1 by their own and their masters' account1 been captured1 and in several instances ,i traced the parents of these unfortunates1 though the plan approved by the long-headed among the burghers is to take children so young that they soon forget their parents and their native language also4 ,it was long before ,i could give credit to the tales of bloodshed told by native witnesses1 and had ,i received no other testimony but theirs ,i should probably have continued skeptical to this day as to the truth of the accounts2 but when ,i found the ,boers themselves1 some bewailing and denouncing1 others glorying in the bloody scenes in which they had been themselves the actors1 ,i was compelled to admit the validity of the testimony1 and try to account for the cruel anomaly4 ,they are all traditionally religious1 tracing their descent from some of the best men 7,huguenots and ,dutch7 the world ever saw4 ,hence they claim to themselves the title of ,christians1 and all the colored race are black property or creatures4 ,they being the chosen people of ,god1 the heathen are given to them for an inheritance1 and they are the rod of divine vengeance on the heathen1 as were the ,jews of old4 ,living in the midst of a native population much larger than themselves1 and at fountains removed many miles from each other1 they feel somewhat in the same insecure position as do the ,americans in the ,southern ,states4 ,the first question put by them to strangers is respecting peace2 and when they receive reports from disaffected or envious natives against any tribe1 the case assumes all the appearance and proportions of a regular insurrection4 ,severe measures then appear to the most mildly disposed among them as imperatively called for1 and1 however bloody the massacre that follows1 no qualms of conscience ensue3 it is a dire necessity for the sake of peace4 ,indeed1 the late ,mr4 ,hendrick ,potgeiter most devoutly believed himself to be the great peacemaker of the country4 ,but how is it that the natives1 being so vastly superior in numbers to the ,boers1 do not rise and annihilate them8 ,the people among whom they live are ,bechuanas1 not ,caffres1 though no one would ever learn that distinction from a ,boer2 and history does not contain one single instance in which the ,bechuanas1 even those of them who possess fire-arms1 have attacked either the ,boers or the ,english4 ,if there is such an instance1 ,i am certain it is not generally known1 either beyond or in the ,cape ,colony4 ,they have defended themselves when attacked1 as in the case of ,sechele1 but have never engaged in offensive war with ,europeans4 ,we have a very different tale to tell of the ,caffres1 and the difference has always been so evident to these border ,boers that1 ever since those magnificent savages99 obtained possession of fire-arms1 not one ,boer has ever attempted to settle in ,caffreland1 or even face them as an enemy in the field4 ,the ,boers have generally manifested a marked antipathy to any thing but long-shot warfare1 and1 sidling away in their emigrations toward the more effeminate ,bechuanas1 have left their quarrels with the ,caffres to be settled by the ,english1 and their wars to be paid for by ,english gold4 99 ,the ,united ,service ,journal so styles them4 ,the ,bakwains at ,kolobeng had the spectacle of various tribes enslaved before their eyes--the ,bakatla1 the ,batlokua1 the ,bahukeng1 the ,bamosetla1 and two other tribes of ,bakwains were all groaning under the oppression of unrequited labor4 ,this would not have been felt as so great an evil but that the young men of those tribes1 anxious to obtain cattle1 the only means of rising to respectability and importance among their own people1 were in the habit of sallying forth1 like our ,irish and ,highland reapers1 to procure work in the ,cape ,colony4 ,after laboring there three or four years1 in building stone dikes and dams for the ,dutch farmers1 they were well content if at the end of that time they could return with as many cows4 ,on presenting one to their chief1 they ranked as respectable men in the tribe ever afterward4 ,these volunteers were highly esteemed among the ,dutch1 under the name of ,mantatees4 ,they were paid at the rate of one shilling a day and a large loaf of bread between six of them4 ,numbers of them1 who had formerly seen me about twelve hundred miles inland from the ,cape1 recognized me with the loud laughter of joy when ,i was passing them at their work in the ,roggefelt and ,bokkefelt1 within a few days of ,cape ,town4 ,i conversed with them and with elders of the ,dutch ,church1 for whom they were working1 and found that the system was thoroughly satisfactory to both parties4 ,i do not believe that there is one ,boer1 in the ,cashan or ,magaliesberg country1 who would deny that a law was made1 in consequence of this labor passing to the colony1 to deprive these laborers of their hardly-earned cattle1 for the very cogent reason that1 if they want to work1 let them work for us their masters1 though boasting that in their case it would not be paid for4 ,i can never cease to be most unfeignedly thankful that ,i was not born in a land of slaves4 ,no one can understand the effect of the unutterable meanness of the slave-system on the minds of those who1 but for the strange obliquity which prevents them from feeling the degradation of not being gentlemen enough to pay for services rendered1 would be equal in virtue to ourselves4 ,fraud becomes as natural to them as paying one's way is to the rest of mankind4 ,wherever a missionary lives1 traders are sure to come2 they are mutually dependent1 and each aids in the work of the other2 but experience shows that the two employments can not very well be combined in the same person4 ,such a combination would not be morally wrong1 for nothing would be more fair1 and apostolical too1 than that the man who devotes his time to the spiritual welfare of a people should derive temporal advantage from upright commerce1 which traders1 who aim exclusively at their own enrichment1 modestly imagine ought to be left to them4 ,but1 though it is right for missionaries to trade1 the present system of missions renders it inexpedient to spend time in so doing4 ,no missionary with whom ,i ever came in contact1 traded2 and while the traders1 whom we introduced and rendered secure in the country1 waxed rich1 the missionaries have invariably remained poor1 and have died so4 ,the ,jesuits1 in ,africa at least1 were wiser in their generation than we2 theirs were large1 influential communities1 proceeding on the system of turning the abilities of every brother into that channel in which he was most likely to excel2 one1 fond of natural history1 was allowed to follow his bent2 another1 fond of literature1 found leisure to pursue his studies2 and he who was great in barter was sent in search of ivory and gold-dust2 so that while in the course of performing the religious acts of his mission to distant tribes1 he found the means of aiding effectually the brethren whom he had left in the central settlement499 ,we ,protestants1 with the comfortable conviction of superiority1 have sent out missionaries with a bare subsistence only1 and are unsparing in our laudations of some for not being worldly-minded whom our niggardliness made to live as did the prodigal son4 ,i do not speak of myself1 nor need ,i to do so1 but for that very reason ,i feel at liberty to interpose a word in behalf of others4 ,i have before my mind at this moment facts and instances which warrant my putting the case in this way3 ,the command to go into all the world and preach the ,gospel to every creature must be obeyed by ,christians either personally or by substitute4 ,now it is quite possible to find men whose love for the heathen and devotion to the work will make them ready to go forth on the terms bare subsistence1 but what can be thought of the justice1 to say nothing of the generosity1 of ,christians and churches who not only work their substitutes at the lowest terms1 but regard what they give as charity6 ,the matter is the more grave in respect to the ,protestant missionary1 who may have a wife and family4 ,the fact is1 there are many cases in which it is right1 virtuous1 and praiseworthy for a man to sacrifice every thing for a great object1 but in which it would be very wrong for others1 interested in the object as much as he1 to suffer or accept the sacrifice1 if they can prevent it4 99 ,the ,dutch clergy1 too1 are not wanting in worldly wisdom4 ,a fountain is bought1 and the lands which it can irrigate parceled out and let to villagers4 ,as they increase in numbers1 the rents rise and the church becomes rich4 ,with #bjj ,pounds per annum in addition from government1 the salary amounts to #djj or #ejj ,pounds a year4 ,the clergymen then preach abstinence from politics as a ,christian duty4 ,it is quite clear that1 with #djj ,pounds a year1 but little else except pure spirituality is required4 ,english traders sold those articles which the ,boers most dread1 namely1 arms and ammunition2 and when the number of guns amounted to five1 so much alarm was excited among our neighbors that an expedition of several hundred ,boers was seriously planned to deprive the ,bakwains of their guns4 ,knowing that the latter would rather have fled to the ,kalahari ,desert than deliver up their weapons and become slaves1 ,i proceeded to the commandant1 ,mr4 ,gert ,krieger1 and1 representing the evils of any such expedition1 prevailed upon him to defer it2 but that point being granted1 the ,boer wished to gain another1 which was that ,i should act as a spy over the ,bakwains4 ,i explained the impossibility of my complying with his wish1 even though my principles as an ,englishman had not stood in the way1 by referring to an instance in which ,sechele had gone with his whole force to punish an under-chief without my knowledge4 ,this man1 whose name was ,kake1 rebelled1 and was led on in his rebellion by his father-in-law1 who had been regicide in the case of ,sechele's father4 ,several of those who remained faithful to that chief were maltreated by ,kake while passing to the ,desert in search of skins4 ,we had just come to live with the ,bakwains when this happened1 and ,sechele consulted me4 ,i advised mild measures1 but the messengers he sent to ,kake were taunted with the words1 ,he only pretends to wish to follow the advice of the teacher3 ,sechele is a coward2 let him come and fight if he dare4 ,the next time the offense was repeated1 ,sechele told me he was going to hunt elephants2 and as ,i knew the system of espionage which prevails among all the tribes1 ,i never made inquiries that would convey the opinion that ,i distrusted them4 ,i gave credit to his statement4 ,he asked the loan of a black-metal pot to cook with1 as theirs of pottery are brittle4 ,i gave it and a handful of salt1 and desired him to send back two tit-bits1 the proboscis and fore-foot of the elephant4 ,he set off1 and ,i heard nothing more until we saw the ,bakwains carrying home their wounded1 and heard some of the women uttering the loud wail of sorrow for the dead1 and others pealing forth the clear scream of victory4 ,it was then clear that ,sechele had attacked and driven away the rebel4 ,mentioning this to the commandant in proof of the impossibility of granting his request1 ,i had soon an example how quickly a story can grow among idle people4 ,the five guns were1 within one month1 multiplied into a tale of five hundred1 and the cooking-pot1 now in a museum at ,cape ,town1 was magnified into a cannon2 ,i had myself confessed to the loan4 ,where the five hundred guns came from1 it was easy to divine2 for1 knowing that ,i used a sextant1 my connection with government was a thing of course2 and1 as ,i must know all her majesty's counsels1 ,i was questioned on the subject of the indistinct rumors which had reached them of ,lord ,rosse's telescope4 ,what right has your government to set up that large glass at the ,cape to look after us behind the ,cashan ,mountains8 ,many of the ,boers visited us afterward at ,kolobeng1 some for medical advice1 and others to trade in those very articles which their own laws and policy forbid4 ,when ,i happened to stumble upon any of them in the town1 with his muskets and powder displayed1 he would begin an apology1 on the ground that he was a poor man1 etc41 which ,i always cut short by frankly saying that ,i had nothing to do with either the ,boers or their laws4 ,many attempts were made during these visits to elicit the truth about the guns and cannon2 and ignorant of the system of espionage which prevails1 eager inquiries were made by them among those who could jabber a little ,dutch4 ,it is noticeable that the system of espionage is as well developed among the savage tribes as in ,austria or ,russia4 ,it is a proof of barbarism4 ,every man in a tribe feels himself bound to tell the chief every thing that comes to his knowledge1 and1 when questioned by a stranger1 either gives answers which exhibit the utmost stupidity1 or such as he knows will be agreeable to his chief4 ,i believe that in this way have arisen tales of their inability to count more than ten1 as was asserted of the ,bechuanas about the very time when ,sechele's father counted out one thousand head of cattle as a beginning of the stock of his young son4 ,in the present case1 ,sechele1 knowing every question put to his people1 asked me how they ought to answer4 ,my reply was1 ,tell the truth4 ,every one then declared that no cannon existed there2 and our friends1 judging the answer by what they themselves would in the circumstances have said1 were confirmed in the opinion that the ,bakwains actually possessed artillery4 ,this was in some degree beneficial to us1 inasmuch as fear prevented any foray in our direction for eight years4 ,during that time no winter passed without one or two tribes in the ,east country being plundered of both cattle and children by the ,boers4 ,the plan pursued is the following3 one or two friendly tribes are forced to accompany a party of mounted ,boers1 and these expeditions can be got up only in the winter1 when horses may be used without danger of being lost by disease4 ,when they reach the tribe to be attacked1 the friendly natives are ranged in front1 to form1 as they say1 a shield2 the ,boers then coolly fire over their heads till the devoted people flee and leave cattle1 wives1 and children to the captors4 ,this was done in nine cases during my residence in the interior1 and on no occasion was a drop of ,boer's blood shed4 ,news of these deeds spread quickly among the ,bakwains1 and letters were repeatedly sent by the ,boers to ,sechele1 ordering him to come and surrender himself as their vassal1 and stop ,english traders from proceeding into the country with fire-arms for sale4 ,but the discovery of ,lake ,ngami1 hereafter to be described1 made the traders come in five-fold greater numbers1 and ,sechele replied1 ,i was made an independent chief and placed here by ,god1 and not by you4 ,i was never conquered by ,mosilikatze1 as those tribes whom you rule over2 and the ,english are my friends4 ,i get every thing ,i wish from them4 ,i can not hinder them from going where they like4 ,those who are old enough to remember the threatened invasion of our own island may understand the effect which the constant danger of a ,boerish invasion had on the minds of the ,bakwains2 but no others can conceive how worrying were the messages and threats from the endless self-constituted authorities of the ,magaliesberg ,boers2 and when to all this harassing annoyance was added the scarcity produced by the drought1 we could not wonder at1 though we felt sorry for1 their indisposition to receive instruction4 ,the myth of the black pot assumed serious proportions4 ,i attempted to benefit the tribes among the ,boers of ,magaliesberg by placing native teachers at different points4 ,you must teach the blacks1 said ,mr4 ,hendrick ,potgeiter1 the commandant in chief1 that they are not equal to us4 ,other ,boers told me1 ,i might as well teach the baboons on the rocks as the ,africans1 but declined the test which ,i proposed1 namely1 to examine whether they or my native attendants could read best4 ,two of their clergymen came to baptize the children of the ,boers2 so1 supposing these good men would assist me in overcoming the repugnance of their flock to the education of the blacks1 ,i called on them2 but my visit ended in a 'ruse' practiced by the ,boerish commandant1 whereby ,i was led1 by professions of the greatest friendship1 to retire to ,kolobeng1 while a letter passed me by another way to the other missionaries in the south1 demanding my instant recall for lending a cannon to their enemies4 ,the colonial government was also gravely informed that the story was true1 and ,i came to be looked upon as a most suspicious character in consequence4 ,these notices of the ,boers are not intended to produce a sneer at their ignorance1 but to excite the compassion of their friends4 ,they are perpetually talking about their laws2 but practically theirs is only the law of the strongest4 ,the ,bechuanas could never understand the changes which took place in their commandants4 ,why1 one can never know who is the chief among these ,boers4 ,like the ,bushmen1 they have no king--they must be the ,bushmen of the ,english4 ,the idea that any tribe of men could be so senseless as not to have an hereditary chief was so absurd to these people1 that1 in order not to appear equally stupid1 ,i was obliged to tell them that we ,english were so anxious to preserve the royal blood1 that we had made a young lady our chief4 ,this seemed to them a most convincing proof of our sound sense4 ,we shall see farther on the confidence my account of our queen inspired4 ,the ,boers1 encouraged by the accession of ,mr4 ,pretorius1 determined at last to put a stop to ,english traders going past ,kolobeng1 by dispersing the tribe of ,bakwains1 and expelling all the missionaries4 ,sir ,george ,cathcart proclaimed the independence of the ,boers1 the best thing that could have been done had they been between us and the ,caffres4 ,a treaty was entered into with these ,boers2 an article for the free passage of ,englishmen to the country beyond1 and also another1 that no slavery should be allowed in the independent territory1 were duly inserted1 as expressive of the views of her majesty's government at home4 ,but what about the missionaries8 inquired the ,boers4 ,,you ,,may ,,do ,,as ,,you ,,please ,,with ,,them1 is said to have been the answer of the ,commissioner4 ,this remark1 if uttered at all1 was probably made in joke3 designing men1 however1 circulated it1 and caused the general belief in its accuracy which now prevails all over the country1 and doubtless led to the destruction of three mission stations immediately after4 ,the ,boers1 four hundred in number1 were sent by the late ,mr4 ,pretorius to attack the ,bakwains in #aheb4 ,boasting that the ,english had given up all the blacks into their power1 and had agreed to aid them in their subjugation by preventing all supplies of ammunition from coming into the ,bechuana country1 they assaulted the ,bakwains1 and1 besides killing a considerable number of adults1 carried off two hundred of our school children into slavery4 ,the natives under ,sechele defended themselves till the approach of night enabled them to flee to the mountains2 and having in that defense killed a number of the enemy1 the very first ever slain in this country by ,bechuanas1 ,i received the credit of having taught the tribe to kill ,boers6 ,my house1 which had stood perfectly secure for years under the protection of the natives1 was plundered in revenge4 ,english gentlemen1 who had come in the footsteps of ,mr4 ,cumming to hunt in the country beyond1 and had deposited large quantities of stores in the same keeping1 and upward of eighty head of cattle as relays for the return journeys1 were robbed of all1 and1 when they came back to ,kolobeng1 found the skeletons of the guardians strewed all over the place4 ,the books of a good library--my solace in our solitude--were not taken away1 but handfuls of the leaves were torn out and scattered over the place4 ,my stock of medicines was smashed2 and all our furniture and clothing carried off and sold at public auction to pay the expenses of the foray4 ,i do not mention these things by way of making a pitiful wail over my losses1 nor in order to excite commiseration2 for1 though ,i do feel sorry for the loss of lexicons1 dictionaries1 c41 which had been the companions of my boyhood1 yet1 after all1 the plundering only set me entirely free for my expedition to the north1 and ,i have never since had a moment's concern for any thing ,i left behind4 ,the ,boers resolved to shut up the interior1 and ,i determined to open the country1 and we shall see who have been most successful in resolution1 they or ,i4 ,a short sketch of ,african housekeeping may not prove uninteresting to the reader4 ,the entire absence of shops led us to make every thing we needed from the raw materials4 ,you want bricks to build a house1 and must forthwith proceed to the field1 cut down a tree1 and saw it into planks to make the brick-moulds2 the materials for doors and windows1 too1 are standing in the forest2 and1 if you want to be respected by the natives1 a house of decent dimensions1 costing an immense amount of manual labor1 must be built4 ,the people can not assist you much2 for1 though most willing to labor for wages1 the ,bakwains have a curious inability to make or put things square3 like all ,bechuanas1 their dwellings are made round4 ,in the case of three large houses1 erected by myself at different times1 every brick and stick had to be put square by my own right hand4 ,having got the meal ground1 the wife proceeds to make it into bread2 an extempore oven is often constructed by scooping out a large hole in an anthill1 and using a slab of stone for a door4 ,another plan1 which might be adopted by the ,australians to produce something better than their dampers1 is to make a good fire on a level piece of ground1 and1 when the ground is thoroughly heated1 place the dough in a small1 short-handled frying-pan1 or simply on the hot ashes2 invert any sort of metal pot over it1 draw the ashes around1 and then make a small fire on the top4 ,dough1 mixed with a little leaven from a former baking1 and allowed to stand an hour or two in the sun1 will by this process become excellent bread4 ,we made our own butter1 a jar serving as a churn2 and our own candles by means of moulds2 and soap was procured from the ashes of the plant salsola1 or from wood-ashes1 which in ,africa contain so little alkaline matter that the boiling of successive leys has to be continued for a month or six weeks before the fat is saponified4 ,there is not much hardship in being almost entirely dependent on ourselves2 there is something of the feeling which must have animated ,alexander ,selkirk on seeing conveniences springing up before him from his own ingenuity2 and married life is all the sweeter when so many comforts emanate directly from the thrifty striving housewife's hands4 ,to some it may appear quite a romantic mode of life2 it is one of active benevolence1 such as the good may enjoy at home4 ,take a single day as a sample of the whole4 ,we rose early1 because1 however hot the day may have been1 the evening1 night1 and morning at ,kolobeng were deliciously refreshing2 cool is not the word1 where you have neither an increase of cold nor heat to desire1 and where you can sit out till midnight with no fear of coughs or rheumatism4 ,after family worship and breakfast between six and seven1 we went to keep school for all who would attend--men1 women1 and children being all invited4 ,school over at eleven o'clock1 while the missionary's wife was occupied in domestic matters1 the missionary himself had some manual labor as a smith1 carpenter1 or gardener1 according to whatever was needed for ourselves or for the people2 if for the latter1 they worked for us in the garden1 or at some other employment2 skilled labor was thus exchanged for the unskilled4 ,after dinner and an hour's rest1 the wife attended her infant-school1 which the young1 who were left by their parents entirely to their own caprice1 liked amazingly1 and generally mustered a hundred strong2 or she varied that with a sewing-school1 having classes of girls to learn the art2 this1 too1 was equally well relished4 ,during the day every operation must be superintended1 and both husband and wife must labor till the sun declines4 ,after sunset the husband went into the town to converse with any one willing to do so1 sometimes on general subjects1 at other times on religion4 ,on three nights of the week1 as soon as the milking of the cows was over and it had become dark1 we had a public religious service1 and one of instruction on secular subjects1 aided by pictures and specimens4 ,these services were diversified by attending upon the sick and prescribing for them1 giving food1 and otherwise assisting the poor and wretched4 ,we tried to gain their affections by attending to the wants of the body4 ,the smallest acts of friendship1 an obliging word and civil look1 are1 as ,st4 ,xavier thought1 no despicable part of the missionary armor4 ,nor ought the good opinion of the most abject to be uncared for1 when politeness may secure it4 ,their good word in the aggregate forms a reputation which may be well employed in procuring favor for the ,gospel4 ,show kind attention to the reckless opponents of ,christianity on the bed of sickness and pain1 and they never can become your personal enemies4 ,here1 if any where1 love begets love4 ,when at ,kolobeng1 during the droughts we were entirely dependent on ,kuruman for supplies of corn4 ,once we were reduced to living on bran1 to convert which into fine meal we had to grind it three times over4 ,we were much in want of animal food1 which seems to be a greater necessary of life there than vegetarians would imagine4 ,being alone1 we could not divide the butcher-meat of a slaughtered animal with a prospect of getting a return with regularity4 ,sechele had1 by right of chieftainship1 the breast of every animal slaughtered either at home or abroad1 and he most obligingly sent us a liberal share during the whole period of our sojourn4 ,but these supplies were necessarily so irregular that we were sometimes fain to accept a dish of locusts4 ,these are quite a blessing in the country1 so much so that the ,,rain-,,doctors sometimes promised to bring them by their incantations4 ,the locusts are strongly vegetable in taste1 the flavor varying with the plants on which they feed4 ,there is a physiological reason why locusts and honey should be eaten together4 ,some are roasted and pounded into meal1 which1 eaten with a little salt1 is palatable4 ,it will keep thus for months4 ,boiled1 they are disagreeable2 but when they are roasted ,i should much prefer locusts to shrimps1 though ,i would avoid both if possible4 ,in traveling we sometimes suffered considerably from scarcity of meat1 though not from absolute want of food4 ,this was felt more especially by my children2 and the natives1 to show their sympathy1 often gave them a large kind of caterpillar1 which they seemed to relish2 these insects could not be unwholesome1 for the natives devoured them in large quantities themselves4 ,another article of which our children partook with eagerness was a very large frog1 called ,matlametlo499 99 ,the ,pyxicephalus adspersus of ,dr4 ,smith4 ,length of head and body1 #e-a_/b inches2 fore legs1 #c inches2 hind legs1 #f inches4 ,width of head posteriorly1 #c inches2 of body1 #d-a_/b inches4 ,these enormous frogs1 which1 when cooked1 look like chickens1 are supposed by the natives to fall down from thunder-clouds1 because after a heavy thunder-shower the pools1 which are filled and retain water a few days1 become instantly alive with this loud-croaking1 pugnacious game4 ,this phenomenon takes place in the driest parts of the desert1 and in places where1 to an ordinary observer1 there is not a sign of life4 ,having been once benighted in a district of the ,kalahari where there was no prospect of getting water for our cattle for a day or two1 ,i was surprised to hear in the fine still evening the croaking of frogs4 ,walking out until ,i was certain that the musicians were between me and our fire1 ,i found that they could be merry on nothing else but a prospect of rain4 ,from the ,bushmen ,i afterward learned that the matlametlo makes a hole at the root of certain bushes1 and there ensconces himself during the months of drought4 ,as he seldom emerges1 a large variety of spider takes advantage of the hole1 and makes its web across the orifice4 ,he is thus furnished with a window and screen gratis2 and no one but a ,bushman would think of searching beneath a spider's web for a frog4 ,they completely eluded my search on the occasion referred to2 and as they rush forth into the hollows filled by the thunder-shower when the rain is actually falling1 and the ,bechuanas are cowering under their skin garments1 the sudden chorus struck up simultaneously from all sides seems to indicate a descent from the clouds4 ,the presence of these matlametlo in the desert in a time of drought was rather a disappointment1 for ,i had been accustomed to suppose that the note was always emitted by them when they were chin-deep in water4 ,their music was always regarded in other spots as the most pleasant sound that met the ear after crossing portions of the thirsty desert2 and ,i could fully appreciate the sympathy for these animals shown by ,aesop1 himself an ,african1 in his fable of the ,boys and the ,frogs4 ,it is remarkable that attempts have not been made to any extent to domesticate some of the noble and useful creatures of ,africa in ,england4 ,the eland1 which is the most magnificent of all antelopes1 would grace the parks of our nobility more than deer4 ,this animal1 from the excellence of its flesh1 would be appropriate to our own country2 and as there is also a splendid esculent frog nearly as large as a chicken1 it would no doubt tend to perpetuate the present alliance if we made a gift of that to ,france4 ,the scavenger beetle is one of the most useful of all insects1 as it effectually answers the object indicated by the name4 ,where they abound1 as at ,kuruman1 the villages are sweet and clean1 for no sooner are animal excretions dropped than1 attracted by the scent1 the scavengers are heard coming booming up the wind4 ,they roll away the droppings of cattle at once1 in round pieces often as large as billiard-balls2 and when they reach a place proper by its softness for the deposit of their eggs and the safety of their young1 they dig the soil out from beneath the ball till they have quite let it down and covered it3 they then lay their eggs within the mass4 ,while the larvae are growing1 they devour the inside of the ball before coming above ground to begin the world for themselves4 ,the beetles with their gigantic balls look like ,atlas with the world on his back2 only they go backward1 and1 with their heads down1 push with the hind legs1 as if a boy should roll a snow-ball with his legs while standing on his head4 ,as we recommend the eland to ,john ,bull1 and the gigantic frog to ,france1 we can confidently recommend this beetle to the dirty ,italian towns and our own ,sanitary ,commissioners4 ,in trying to benefit the tribes living under the ,boers of the ,cashan ,mountains1 ,i twice performed a journey of about three hundred miles to the eastward of ,kolobeng4 ,sechele had become so obnoxious to the ,boers that1 though anxious to accompany me in my journey1 he dared not trust himself among them4 ,this did not arise from the crime of cattle-stealing2 for that crime1 so common among the ,caffres1 was never charged against his tribe1 nor1 indeed1 against any ,bechuana tribe4 ,it is1 in fact1 unknown in the country1 except during actual warfare4 ,his independence and love of the ,english were his only faults4 ,in my last journey there1 of about two hundred miles1 on parting at the ,river ,marikwe he gave me two servants1 to be1 as he said1 his arms to serve me1 and expressed regret that he could not come himself4 ,suppose we went north1 ,i said1 would you come8 ,he then told me the story of ,sebituane having saved his life1 and expatiated on the far-famed generosity of that really great man4 ,this was the first time ,i had thought of crossing the ,desert to ,lake ,ngami4 ,the conduct of the ,boers1 who1 as will be remembered1 had sent a letter designed to procure my removal out of the country1 and their well-known settled policy which ,i have already described1 became more fully developed on this than on any former occasion4 ,when ,i spoke to ,mr4 ,hendrick ,potgeiter of the danger of hindering the ,gospel of ,christ among these poor savages1 he became greatly excited1 and called one of his followers to answer me4 ,he threatened to attack any tribe that might receive a native teacher1 yet he promised to use his influence to prevent those under him from throwing obstacles in our way4 ,i could perceive plainly that nothing more could be done in that direction1 so ,i commenced collecting all the information ,i could about the desert1 with the intention of crossing it1 if possible4 ,sekomi1 the chief of the ,bamangwato1 was acquainted with a route which he kept carefully to himself1 because the ,lake country abounded in ivory1 and he drew large quantities thence periodically at but small cost to himself4 ,sechele1 who valued highly every thing ,european1 and was always fully alive to his own interest1 was naturally anxious to get a share of that inviting field4 ,he was most anxious to visit ,sebituane too1 partly1 perhaps1 from a wish to show off his new acquirements1 but chiefly1 ,i believe1 from having very exalted ideas of the benefits he would derive from the liberality of that renowned chieftain4 ,in age and family ,sechele is the elder and superior of ,sekomi2 for when the original tribe broke up into ,bamangwato1 ,bangwaketse1 and ,bakwains1 the ,bakwains retained the hereditary chieftainship2 so their chief1 ,sechele1 possesses certain advantages over ,sekomi1 the chief of the ,bamangwato4 ,if the two were traveling or hunting together1 ,sechele would take1 by right1 the heads of the game shot by ,sekomi4 ,there are several vestiges1 besides1 of very ancient partitions and lordships of tribes4 ,the elder brother of ,sechele's father1 becoming blind1 gave over the chieftainship to ,sechele's father4 ,the descendants of this man pay no tribute to ,sechele1 though he is the actual ruler1 and superior to the head of that family2 and ,sechele1 while in every other respect supreme1 calls him ,kosi1 or ,chief4 ,the other tribes will not begin to eat the early pumpkins of a new crop until they hear that the ,bahurutse have bitten it1 and there is a public ceremony on the occasion--the son of the chief being the first to taste of the new harvest4 ,sechele1 by my advice1 sent men to ,sekomi1 asking leave for me to pass along his path1 accompanying the request with the present of an ox4 ,sekomi's mother1 who possesses great influence over him1 refused permission1 because she had not been propitiated4 ,this produced a fresh message2 and the most honorable man in the ,bakwain tribe1 next to ,sechele1 was sent with an ox for both ,sekomi and his mother4 ,this1 too1 was met by refusal4 ,it was said1 ,the ,matebele1 the mortal enemies of the ,bechuanas1 are in the direction of the lake1 and1 should they kill the white man1 we shall incur great blame from all his nation4 ,the exact position of the ,lake ,ngami had1 for half a century at least1 been correctly pointed out by the natives1 who had visited it when rains were more copious in the ,desert than in more recent times1 and many attempts had been made to reach it by passing through the ,desert in the direction indicated2 but it was found impossible1 even for ,griquas1 who1 having some ,bushman blood in them1 may be supposed more capable of enduring thirst than ,europeans4 ,it was clear1 then1 that our only chance of success was by going round1 instead of through1 the ,desert4 ,the best time for the attempt would have been about the end of the rainy season1 in ,march or ,april1 for then we should have been likely to meet with pools of rain-water1 which always dry up during the rainless winter4 ,i communicated my intention to an ,african traveler1 ,colonel ,steele1 then aid-de-camp to the ,marquis of ,tweedale at ,madras1 and he made it known to two other gentlemen1 whose friendship we had gained during their ,african travel1 namely1 ,major ,vardon and ,mr4 ,oswell4 ,all of these gentlemen were so enamored with ,african hunting and ,african discovery that the two former must have envied the latter his good fortune in being able to leave ,india to undertake afresh the pleasures and pains of desert life4 ,i believe ,mr4 ,oswell came from his high position at a very considerable pecuniary sacrifice1 and with no other end in view but to extend the boundaries of geographical knowledge4 ,before ,i knew of his coming1 ,i had arranged that the payment for the guides furnished by ,sechele should be the loan of my wagon1 to bring back whatever ivory he might obtain from the chief at the lake4 ,when1 at last1 ,mr4 ,oswell came1 bringing ,mr4 ,murray with him1 he undertook to defray the entire expenses of the guides1 and fully executed his generous intention4 ,sechele himself would have come with us1 but1 fearing that the much-talked-of assault of the ,boers might take place during our absence1 and blame be attached to me for taking him away1 ,i dissuaded him against it by saying that he knew ,mr4 ,oswell would be as determined as himself to get through the ,desert4 ,before narrating the incidents of this journey1 ,i may give some account of the great ,kalahari ,desert1 in order that the reader may understand in some degree the nature of the difficulties we had to encounter4 ,the space from the ,orange ,river in the south1 lat4 #bi ,degrees1 to ,lake ,ngami in the north1 and from about #bd ,degrees east long4 to near the west coast1 has been called a desert simply because it contains no running water1 and very little water in wells4 ,it is by no means destitute of vegetation and inhabitants1 for it is covered with grass and a great variety of creeping plants2 besides which there are large patches of bushes1 and even trees4 ,it is remarkably flat1 but interesected in different parts by the beds of ancient rivers2 and prodigious herds of certain antelopes1 which require little or no water1 roam over the trackless plains4 ,the inhabitants1 ,bushmen and ,bakalahari1 prey on the game and on the countless rodentia and small species of the feline race which subsist on these4 ,in general1 the soil is light-colored soft sand1 nearly pure silica4 ,the beds of the ancient rivers contain much alluvial soil2 and as that is baked hard by the burning sun1 rain-water stands in pools in some of them for several months in the year4 ,the quantity of grass which grows on this remarkable region is astonishing1 even to those who are familiar with ,india4 ,it usually rises in tufts with bare spaces between1 or the intervals are occupied by creeping plants1 which1 having their roots buried far beneath the soil1 feel little the effects of the scorching sun4 ,the number of these which have tuberous roots is very great2 and their structure is intended to supply nutriment and moisture1 when1 during the long droughts1 they can be obtained nowhere else4 ,here we have an example of a plant1 not generally tuber-bearing1 becoming so under circumstances where that appendage is necessary to act as a reservoir for preserving its life2 and the same thing occurs in ,angola to a species of grape-bearing vine1 which is so furnished for the same purpose4 ,the plant to which ,i at present refer is one of the cucurbitaceae1 which bears a small1 scarlet-colored1 eatable cucumber4 ,another plant1 named ,leroshua1 is a blessing to the inhabitants of the ,desert4 ,we see a small plant with linear leaves1 and a stalk not thicker than a crow's quill2 on digging down a foot or eighteen inches beneath1 we come to a tuber1 often as large as the head of a young child2 when the rind is removed1 we find it to be a mass of cellular tissue1 filled with fluid much like that in a young turnip4 ,owing to the depth beneath the soil at which it is found1 it is generally deliciously cool and refreshing4 ,another kind1 named ,mokuri1 is seen in other parts of the country1 where long-continued heat parches the soil4 ,this plant is an herbaceous creeper1 and deposits under ground a number of tubers1 some as large as a man's head1 at spots in a circle a yard or more1 horizontally1 from the stem4 ,the natives strike the ground on the circumference of the circle with stones1 till1 by hearing a difference of sound1 they know the water-bearing tuber to be beneath4 ,they then dig down a foot or so1 and find it4 ,but the most surprising plant of the ,desert is the ,kengwe or ,keme 7',cucumis caffer'71 the watermelon4 ,in years when more than the usual quantity of rain falls1 vast tracts of the country are literally covered with these melons2 this was the case annually when the fall of rain was greater than it is now1 and the ,bakwains sent trading parties every year to the lake4 ,it happens commonly once every ten or eleven years1 and for the last three times its occurrence has coincided with an extraordinarily wet season4 ,then animals of every sort and name1 including man1 rejoice in the rich supply4 ,the elephant1 true lord of the forest1 revels in this fruit1 and so do the different species of rhinoceros1 although naturally so diverse in their choice of pasture4 ,the various kinds of antelopes feed on them with equal avidity1 and lions1 hyaenas1 jackals1 and mice1 all seem to know and appreciate the common blessing4 ,these melons are not1 however1 all of them eatable2 some are sweet1 and others so bitter that the whole are named by the ,boers the bitter watermelon4 ,the natives select them by striking one melon after another with a hatchet1 and applying the tongue to the gashes4 ,they thus readily distinguish between the bitter and sweet4 ,the bitter are deleterious1 but the sweet are quite wholesome4 ,this peculiarity of one species of plant bearing both sweet and bitter fruits occurs also in a red1 eatable cucumber1 often met with in the country4 ,it is about four inches long1 and about an inch and a half in diameter4 ,it is of a bright scarlet color when ripe4 ,many are bitter1 others quite sweet4 ,even melons in a garden may be made bitter by a few bitter kengwe in the vicinity4 ,the bees convey the pollen from one to the other4 ,the human inhabitants of this tract of country consist of ,bushmen and ,bakalahari4 ,the former are probably the aborigines of the southern portion of the continent1 the latter the remnants of the first emigration of ,bechuanas4 ,the ,bushmen live in the ,desert from choice1 the ,bakalahari from compulsion1 and both possess an intense love of liberty4 ,the ,bushmen are exceptions in language1 race1 habits1 and appearance4 ,they are the only real nomads in the country2 they never cultivate the soil1 nor rear any domestic animal save wretched dogs4 ,they are so intimately acquainted with the habits of the game that they follow them in their migrations1 and prey upon them from place to place1 and thus prove as complete a check upon their inordinate increase as the other carnivora4 ,the chief subsistence of the ,bushmen is the flesh of game1 but that is eked out by what the women collect of roots and beans1 and fruits of the ,desert4 ,those who inhabit the hot sandy plains of the ,desert possess generally thin1 wiry forms1 capable of great exertion and of severe privations4 ,many are of low stature1 though not dwarfish2 the specimens brought to ,europe have been selected1 like costermongers' dogs1 on account of their extreme ugliness2 consequently1 ,english ideas of the whole tribe are formed in the same way as if the ugliest specimens of the ,english were exhibited in ,africa as characteristic of the entire ,british nation4 ,that they are like baboons is in some degree true1 just as these and other simiae are in some points frightfully human4 ,the ,bakalahari are traditionally reported to be the oldest of the ,bechuana tribes1 and they are said to have possessed enormous herds of the large horned cattle mentioned by ,bruce1 until they were despoiled of them and driven into the ,desert by a fresh migration of their own nation4 ,living ever since on the same plains with the ,bushmen1 subjected to the same influences of climate1 enduring the same thirst1 and subsisting on similar food for centuries1 they seem to supply a standing proof that locality is not always sufficient of itself to account for difference in races4 ,the ,bakalahari retain in undying vigor the ,bechuana love for agriculture and domestic animals4 ,they hoe their gardens annually1 though often all they can hope for is a supply of melons and pumpkins4 ,and they carefully rear small herds of goats1 though ,i have seen them lift water for them out of small wells with a bit of ostrich egg-shell1 or by spoonfuls4 ,they generally attach themselves to influential men in the different ,bechuana tribes living adjacent to their desert home1 in order to obtain supplies of spears1 knives1 tobacco1 and dogs1 in exchange for the skins of the animals they may kill4 ,these are small carnivora of the feline species1 including two species of jackal1 the dark and the golden2 the former1 motlose 7',megalotis capensis' or ',cape fennec'71 has the warmest fur the country yields2 the latter1 pukuye 7',canis mesomelas' and ',c4 aureus'71 is very handsome when made into the skin mantle called kaross4 ,next in value follow the tsipa or small ocelot 7',felis nigripes'71 the tuane or lynx1 the wild cat1 the spotted cat1 and other small animals4 ,great numbers of 'puti' 7'duiker'7 and 'puruhuru' 7'steinbuck'7 skins are got too1 besides those of lions1 leopards1 panthers1 and hyaenas4 ,during the time ,i was in the ,bechuana country1 between twenty and thirty thousand skins were made up into karosses2 part of them were worn by the inhabitants1 and part sold to traders3 many1 ,i believe1 find their way to ,china4 ,the ,bakwains bought tobacco from the eastern tribes1 then purchased skins with it from the ,bakalahari1 tanned them1 and sewed them into karosses1 then went south to purchase heifer-calves with them1 cows being the highest form of riches known1 as ,i have often noticed from their asking if ,queen ,victoria had many cows4 ,the compact they enter into is mutually beneficial1 but injustice and wrong are often perpetrated by one tribe of ,bechuanas going among the ,bakalahari of another tribe1 and compelling them to deliver up the skins which they may be keeping for their friends4 ,they are a timid race1 and in bodily development often resemble the aborigines of ,australia4 ,they have thin legs and arms1 and large1 protruding abdomens1 caused by the coarse1 indigestible food they eat4 ,their children's eyes lack lustre4 ,i never saw them at play4 ,a few ,bechuanas may go into a village of ,bakalahari1 and domineer over the whole with impunity2 but when these same adventurers meet the ,bushmen1 they are fain to change their manners to fawning sycophancy2 they know that1 if the request for tobacco is refused1 these free sons of the ,desert may settle the point as to its possession by a poisoned arrow4 ,the dread of visits from ,bechuanas of strange tribes causes the ,bakalahari to choose their residences far from water2 and they not unfrequently hide their supplies by filling the pits with sand and making a fire over the spot4 ,when they wish to draw water for use1 the women come with twenty or thirty of their water-vessels in a bag or net on their backs4 ,these water-vessels consist of ostrich egg-shells1 with a hole in the end of each1 such as would admit one's finger4 ,the women tie a bunch of grass to one end of a reed about two feet long1 and insert it in a hole dug as deep as the arm will reach2 then ram down the wet sand firmly round it4 ,applying the mouth to the free end of the reed1 they form a vacuum in the grass beneath1 in which the water collects1 and in a short time rises into the mouth4 ,an egg-shell is placed on the ground alongside the reed1 some inches below the mouth of the sucker4 ,a straw guides the water into the hole of the vessel1 as she draws mouthful after mouthful from below4 ,the water is made to pass along the outside1 not through the straw4 ,if any one will attempt to squirt water into a bottle placed some distance below his mouth1 he will soon perceive the wisdom of the ,bushwoman's contrivance for giving the stream direction by means of a straw4 ,the whole stock of water is thus passed through the woman's mouth as a pump1 and1 when taken home1 is carefully buried4 ,i have come into villages where1 had we acted a domineering part1 and rummaged every hut1 we should have found nothing2 but by sitting down quietly1 and waiting with patience until the villagers were led to form a favorable opinion of us1 a woman would bring out a shellful of the precious fluid from ,i know not where4 ,the so-called ,desert1 it may be observed1 is by no means a useless tract of country4 ,besides supporting multitudes of both small and large animals1 it sends something to the market of the world1 and has proved a refuge to many a fugitive tribe--to the ,bakalahari first1 and to the other ,bechuanas in turn--as their lands were overrun by the tribe of true ,caffres1 called ,matebele4 ,the ,bakwains1 the ,bangwaketze1 and the ,bamangwato all fled thither2 and the ,matebele marauders1 who came from the well-watered east1 perished by hundreds in their attempts to follow them4 ,one of the ,bangwaketze chiefs1 more wily than the rest1 sent false guides to lead them on a track where1 for hundreds of miles1 not a drop of water could be found1 and they perished in consequence4 ,many ,bakwains perished too4 ,their old men1 who could have told us ancient stories1 perished in these flights4 ,an intelligent ,mokwain related to me how the ,bushmen effectually balked a party of his tribe which lighted on their village in a state of burning thirst4 ,believing1 as he said1 that nothing human could subsist without water1 they demanded some1 but were coolly told by these ,bushmen that they had none1 and never drank any4 ,expecting to find them out1 they resolved to watch them night and day4 ,they persevered for some days1 thinking that at last the water must come forth2 but1 notwithstanding their watchfulness1 kept alive by most tormenting thirst1 the ,bakwains were compelled to exclaim1 ,yak6 yak6 these are not men2 let us go4 ,probably the ,bushmen had been subsisting on a store hidden under ground1 which had eluded the vigilance of their visitors4 ,chapter #c4 ,departure from ,kolobeng1 #ast ,june1 #ahdi--;,companions--,our ,route-- ,abundance of ,grass--,serotli1 a ,fountain in the ,desert--,mode of digging ,wells--,the ,eland--,animals of the ,desert--,the ,hyaena--,the ,chief ,sekomi--,dangers--,the wandering ,guide--,cross ,purposes--,slow ,progress--,want of ,water--,capture of a ,bushwoman--,the ,salt-pan at ,nchokotsa--,the ,mirage--,reach the ,river ,zouga--,the ,quakers of ,africa--,discovery of ,lake ,ngami1 #ast ,august1 #ahdi--;,its ,extent--,small ,depth of ,water--,position as the ,reservoir of a great ,river ,system--,the ,bamangwato and their ,chief--,desire to visit ,sebituane1 the ,chief of the ,makololo--,refusal of ,lechulatebe to furnish us with ,guides--,resolve to return to the ,cape--,the ,banks of the ,zouga--,pitfalls--,trees of the ,district--,elephants--,new ,species of ,antelope--,fish in the ,zouga4 ,such was the desert which we were now preparing to cross--a region formerly of terror to the ,bechuanas from the numbers of serpents which infested it and fed on the different kinds of mice1 and from the intense thirst which these people often endured when their water-vessels were insufficient for the distances to be traveled over before reaching the wells4 ,just before the arrival of my companions1 a party of the people of the lake came to ,kolobeng1 stating that they were sent by ,lechulatebe1 the chief1 to ask me to visit that country4 ,they brought such flaming accounts of the quantities of ivory to be found there 7cattle-pens made of elephants' tusks of enormous size1 c471 that the guides of the ,bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reaching the lake as any one of us could desire4 ,this was fortunate1 as we knew the way the strangers had come was impassable for wagons4 ,messrs4 ,oswell and ,murray came at the end of ,may1 and we all made a fair start for the unknown region on the #ast of ,june1 #ahdi4 ,proceeding northward1 and passing through a range of tree-covered hills to ,shokuane1 formerly the residence of the ,bakwains1 we soon after entered on the high road to the ,bamangwato1 which lies generally in the bed of an ancient river or wady that must formerly have flowed ,n4 to ,s4 ,the adjacent country is perfectly flat1 but covered with open forest and bush1 with abundance of grass2 the trees generally are a kind of acacia called ,monato1 which appears a little to the south of this region1 and is common as far as ,angola4 ,a large caterpillar1 called ,nato1 feeds by night on the leaves of these trees1 and comes down by day to bury itself at the root in the sand1 in order to escape the piercing rays of the sun4 ,the people dig for it there1 and are fond of it when roasted1 on account of its pleasant vegetable taste4 ,when about to pass into the chrysalis state1 it buries itself in the soil1 and is sometimes sought for as food even then4 ,if left undisturbed1 it comes forth as a beautiful butterfly3 the transmutation was sometimes employed by me with good effect when speaking with the natives1 as an illustration of our own great change and resurrection4 ,the soil is sandy1 and there are here and there indications that at spots which now afford no water whatever there were formerly wells and cattle stations4 ,boatlanama1 our next station1 is a lovely spot in the otherwise dry region4 ,the wells from which we had to lift out the water for our cattle are deep1 but they were well filled4 ,a few villages of ,bakalahari were found near them1 and great numbers of pallahs1 springbucks1 ,guinea-fowl1 and small monkeys4 ,lopepe came next4 ,this place afforded another proof of the desiccation of the country4 ,the first time ,i passed it1 ,lopepe was a large pool with a stream flowing out of it to the south2 now it was with difficulty we could get our cattle watered by digging down in the bottom of a well4 ,at ,mashue--where we found a never-failing supply of pure water in a sandstone rocky hollow--we left the road to the ,bamangwato hills1 and struck away to the north into the ,desert4 ,having watered the cattle at a well called ,lobotani1 about ,n4,w4 of ,bamangwato1 we next proceeded to a real ,kalahari fountain1 called ,serotli4 ,the country around is covered with bushes and trees of a kind of leguminosae1 with lilac flowers4 ,the soil is soft white sand1 very trying to the strength of the oxen1 as the wheels sink into it over the felloes and drag heavily4 ,at ,serotli we found only a few hollows like those made by the buffalo and rhinoceros when they roll themselves in the mud4 ,in a corner of one of these there appeared water1 which would have been quickly lapped up by our dogs1 had we not driven them away4 ,and yet this was all the apparent supply for some eighty oxen1 twenty horses1 and about a score of men4 ,our guide1 ,ramotobi1 who had spent his youth in the ,desert1 declared that1 though appearances were against us1 there was plenty of water at hand4 ,we had our misgivings1 for the spades were soon produced2 but our guides1 despising such new-fangled aid1 began in good earnest to scrape out the sand with their hands4 ,the only water we had any promise of for the next seventy miles--that is1 for a journey of three days with the wagons--was to be got here4 ,by the aid of both spades and fingers two of the holes were cleared out1 so as to form pits six feet deep and about as many broad4 ,our guides were especially earnest in their injunctions to us not to break through the hard stratum of sand at the bottom1 because they knew1 if it were broken through1 the water would go away4 ,they are quite correct1 for the water seems to lie on this flooring of incipient sandstone4 ,the value of the advice was proved in the case of an ,englishman whose wits were none of the brightest1 who1 disregarding it1 dug through the sandy stratum in the wells at ,mohotluani3 the water immediately flowed away downward1 and the well became useless4 ,when we came to the stratum1 we found that the water flowed in on all sides close to the line where the soft sand came in contact with it4 ,allowing it to collect1 we had enough for the horses that evening2 but as there was not sufficient for the oxen1 we sent them back to ,lobotani1 where1 after thirsting four full days 7ninety-six hours71 they got a good supply4 ,the horses were kept by us as necessary to procure game for the sustenance of our numerous party4 ,next morning we found the water had flowed in faster than at first1 as it invariably does in these reservoirs1 owing to the passages widening by the flow4 ,large quantities of the sand come into the well with the water1 and in the course of a few days the supply1 which may be equal to the wants of a few men only1 becomes sufficient for oxen as well4 ,in these sucking-places the ,bakalahari get their supplies2 and as they are generally in the hollows of ancient river-beds1 they are probably the deposits from rains gravitating thither2 in some cases they may be the actual fountains1 which1 though formerly supplying the river's flow1 now no longer rise to the surface4 ,here1 though the water was perfectly inaccessible to elands1 large numbers of these fine animals fed around us2 and1 when killed1 they were not only in good condition1 but their stomachs actually contained considerable quantities of water4 ,i examined carefully the whole alimentary canal1 in order to see if there were any peculiarity which might account for the fact that this animal can subsist for months together without drinking1 but found nothing4 ,other animals1 such as the duiker 7',cephalopus mergens'7 or puti 7of the ,bechuanas71 the steinbuck 7',tragulus rupestris'7 or puruhuru1 the gemsbuck 7',oryx capensis'7 or kukama1 and the porcupine 7',hystrix cristata'71 are all able to subsist without water for many months at a time by living on bulbs and tubers containing moisture4 ,they have sharp-pointed hoofs well adapted for digging1 and there is little difficulty in comprehending their mode of subsistence4 ,some animals1 on the other hand1 are never seen but in the vicinity of water4 ,the presence of the rhinoceros1 of the buffalo and gnu 7',catoblepas gnu'71 of the giraffe1 the zebra1 and pallah 7',antilope melampus'71 is always a certain indication of water being within a distance of seven or eight miles2 but one may see hundreds of elands 7',boselaphus oreas'71 gemsbuck1 the tolo or koodoo 7',strepsiceros capensis'71 also springbucks 7',gazella euchore'7 and ostriches1 without being warranted thereby in inferring the presence of water within thirty or forty miles4 ,indeed1 the sleek1 fat condition of the eland in such circumstances would not remove the apprehension of perishing by thirst from the mind of even a native4 ,i believe1 however1 that these animals can subsist only where there is some moisture in the vegetation on which they feed2 for in one year of unusual drought we saw herds of elands and flocks of ostriches crowding to the ,zouga from the ,desert1 and very many of the latter were killed in pitfalls on the banks4 ,as long as there is any sap in the pasturage they seldom need water4 ,but should a traveler see the spoor of a rhinoceros1 or buffalo1 or zebra1 he would at once follow it up1 well assured that before he had gone many miles he would certainly reach water4 ,in the evening of our second day at ,serotli1 a hyaena1 appearing suddenly among the grass1 succeeded in raising a panic among our cattle4 ,this false mode of attack is the plan which this cowardly animal always adopts4 ,his courage resembles closely that of a turkey-cock4 ,he will bite1 if an animal is running away2 but if the animal stand still1 so does he4 ,seventeen of our draught oxen ran away1 and in their flight went right into the hands of ,sekomi1 whom1 from his being unfriendly to our success1 we had no particular wish to see4 ,cattle-stealing1 such as in the circumstances might have occurred in ,caffraria1 is here unknown2 so ,sekomi sent back our oxen1 and a message strongly dissuading us against attempting the ,desert4 ,where are you going8 ,you will be killed by the sun and thirst1 and then all the white men will blame me for not saving you4 ,this was backed by a private message from his mother4 ,why do you pass me8 ,i always made the people collect to hear the word that you have got4 ,what guilt have ,i1 that you pass without looking at me8 ,we replied by assuring the messengers that the white men would attribute our deaths to our own stupidity and hard-headedness 7tlogo1 e thata71 as we did not intend to allow our companions and guides to return till they had put us into our graves4 ,we sent a handsome present to ,sekomi1 and a promise that1 if he allowed the ,bakalahari to keep the wells open for us1 we would repeat the gift on our return4 ,after exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attempts to persuade us to return1 the under-chief1 who headed the party of ,sekomi's messengers1 inquired1 ,who is taking them8 ,looking round1 he exclaimed1 with a face expressive of the most unfeigned disgust1 ,it is ,ramotobi6 ,our guide belonged to ,sekomi's tribe1 but had fled to ,sechele2 as fugitives in this country are always well received1 and may even afterward visit the tribe from which they had escaped1 ,ramotobi was in no danger1 though doing that which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests of his own chief and tribe4 ,all around ,serotli the country is perfectly flat1 and composed of soft white sand4 ,there is a peculiar glare of bright sunlight from a cloudless sky over the whole scene2 and one clump of trees and bushes1 with open spaces between1 looks so exactly like another1 that if you leave the wells1 and walk a quarter of a mile in any direction1 it is difficult to return4 ,oswell and ,murray went out on one occasion to get an eland1 and were accompanied by one of the ,bakalahari4 ,the perfect sameness of the country caused even this son of the ,desert to lose his way2 a most puzzling conversation forthwith ensued between them and their guide4 ,one of the most common phrases of the people is ,kia itumela1 ,i thank you1 or ,i am pleased2 and the gentlemen were both quite familiar with it1 and with the word metse1 water4 ,but there is a word very similar in sound1 ,kia timela1 ,i am wandering2 its perfect is ,ki timetse1 ,i have wandered4 ,the party had been roaming about1 perfectly lost1 till the sun went down2 and1 through their mistaking the verb wander for to be pleased1 and water1 the colloquy went on at intervals during the whole bitterly cold night in somewhat the following style3 ,where are the wagons8 ,,real ,,answer4 ,i don't know4 ,i have wandered4 ,i never wandered before4 ,i am quite lost4 ,,supposed ,,answer4 ,i don't know4 ,i want water4 ,i am glad1 ,i am quite pleased4 ,i am thankful to you4 ,take us to the wagons1 and you will get plenty of water4 ,,real ,,answer 7looking vacantly around74 ,how did ,i wander8 ,perhaps the well is there1 perhaps not4 ,i don't know4 ,i have wandered4 ,,supposed ,,answer4 ,something about thanks2 he says he is pleased1 and mentions water again4 ,the guide's vacant stare while trying to remember is thought to indicate mental imbecility1 and the repeated thanks were supposed to indicate a wish to deprecate their wrath4 ,well1 ,livingstone ,,has played us a pretty trick1 giving us in charge of an idiot4 ,catch us trusting him again4 ,what can this fellow mean by his thanks and talk about water8 ,oh1 you born fool6 take us to the wagons1 and you will get both meat and water4 ,wouldn't a thrashing bring him to his senses again8 ,no1 no1 for then he will run away1 and we shall be worse off than we are now4 ,the hunters regained the wagons next day by their own sagacity1 which becomes wonderfully quickened by a sojourn in the ,desert2 and we enjoyed a hearty laugh on the explanation of their midnight colloquies4 ,frequent mistakes of this kind occur4 ,a man may tell his interpreter to say that he is a member of the family of the chief of the white men2 ,,yes1 ,,you ,,speak ,,like ,a ,,chief1 is the reply1 meaning1 as they explain it1 that a chief may talk nonsense without any one daring to contradict him4 ,they probably have ascertained1 from that same interpreter1 that this relative of the white chief is very poor1 having scarcely any thing in his wagon4 ,i sometimes felt annoyed at the low estimation in which some of my hunting friends were held2 for1 believing that the chase is eminently conducive to the formation of a brave and noble character1 and that the contest with wild beasts is well adapted for fostering that coolness in emergencies1 and active presence of mind1 which we all admire1 ,i was naturally anxious that a higher estimate of my countrymen should be formed in the native mind4 ,have these hunters1 who come so far and work so hard1 no meat at home8--,why1 these men are rich1 and could slaughter oxen every day of their lives4--,and yet they come here1 and endure so much thirst for the sake of this dry meat1 none of which is equal to beef8--,yes1 it is for the sake of play besides 7the idea of sport not being in the language74 ,this produces a laugh1 as much as to say1 ,ah6 you know better2 or1 ,your friends are fools4 ,when they can get a man to kill large quantities of game for them1 whatever ,,he may think of himself or of his achievements1 ,,they pride themselves in having adroitly turned to good account the folly of an itinerant butcher4 ,the water having at last flowed into the wells we had dug in sufficient quantity to allow a good drink to all our cattle1 we departed from ,serotli in the afternoon2 but as the sun1 even in winter1 which it now was1 is always very powerful by day1 the wagons were dragged but slowly through the deep1 heavy sand1 and we advanced only six miles before sunset4 ,we could only travel in the mornings and evenings1 as a single day in the hot sun and heavy sand would have knocked up the oxen4 ,next day we passed ,pepacheu 7white tufa71 a hollow lined with tufa1 in which water sometimes stands1 but it was now dry2 and at night our trocheamer99 showed that we had made but twenty-five miles from ,serotli4 99 ,this is an instrument which1 when fastened on the wagon-wheel1 records the number of revolutions made4 ,by multiplying this number by the circumference of the wheel1 the actual distance traveled over is at once ascertained4 ,ramotobi was angry at the slowness of our progress1 and told us that1 as the next water was three days in front1 if we traveled so slowly we should never get there at all4 ,the utmost endeavors of the servants1 cracking their whips1 screaming and beating1 got only nineteen miles out of the poor beasts4 ,we had thus proceeded forty-four miles from ,serotli2 and the oxen were more exhausted by the soft nature of the country1 and the thirst1 than if they had traveled double the distance over a hard road containing supplies of water3 we had1 as far as we could judge1 still thirty miles more of the same dry work before us4 ,at this season the grass becomes so dry as to crumble to powder in the hands2 so the poor beasts stood wearily chewing1 without taking a single fresh mouthful1 and lowing painfully at the smell of water in our vessels in the wagons4 ,we were all determined to succeed2 so we endeavored to save the horses by sending them forward with the guide1 as a means of making a desperate effort in case the oxen should fail4 ,murray went forward with them1 while ,oswell and ,i remained to bring the wagons on their trail as far as the cattle could drag them1 intending then to send the oxen forward too4 ,the horses walked quickly away from us2 but1 on the morning of the third day1 when we imagined the steeds must be near the water1 we discovered them just alongside the wagons4 ,the guide1 having come across the fresh footprints of some ,bushmen who had gone in an opposite direction to that which we wished to go1 turned aside to follow them4 ,an antelope had been ensnared in one of the ,bushmen's pitfalls4 ,murray followed ,ramotobi most trustingly along the ,bushmen's spoor1 though that led them away from the water we were in search of2 witnessed the operation of slaughtering1 skinning1 and cutting up the antelope2 and then1 after a hard day's toil1 found himself close upon the wagons6 ,the knowledge still retained by ,ramotobi of the trackless waste of scrub1 through which we were now passing1 seemed admirable4 ,for sixty or seventy miles beyond ,serotli1 one clump of bushes and trees seemed exactly like another2 but1 as we walked together this morning1 he remarked1 ,when we come to that hollow we shall light upon the highway of ,sekomi2 and beyond that again lies the ,river ,mokoko2 which1 though we passed along it1 ,i could not perceive to be a river-bed at all4 ,after breakfast1 some of the men1 who had gone forward on a little path with some footprints of water-loving animals upon it1 returned with the joyful tidings of metse1 water1 exhibiting the mud on their knees in confirmation of the news being true4 ,it does one's heart good to see the thirsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain-water1 as this was4 ,in they dash until the water is deep enough to be nearly level with their throat1 and then they stand drawing slowly in the long1 refreshing mouthfuls1 until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would burst4 ,so much do they imbibe1 that a sudden jerk1 when they come out on the bank1 makes some of the water run out again from their mouths2 but1 as they have been days without food too1 they very soon commence to graze1 and of grass there is always abundance every where4 ,this pool was called ,mathuluani2 and thankful we were to have obtained so welcome a supply of water4 ,after giving the cattle a rest at this spot1 we proceeded down the dry bed of the ,river ,mokoko4 ,the name refers to the water-bearing stratum before alluded to2 and in this ancient bed it bears enough of water to admit of permanent wells in several parts of it4 ,we had now the assurance from ,ramotobi that we should suffer no more from thirst4 ,twice we found rain-water in the ,mokoko before we reached ,mokokonyani1 where the water1 generally below ground elsewhere1 comes to the surface in a bed of tufa4 ,the adjacent country is all covered with low1 thorny scrub1 with grass1 and here and there clumps of the wait-a-bit thorn1 or ',acacia detinens'4 ,at ,lotlakani 7a little reed71 another spring three miles farther down1 we met with the first ,palmyra trees which we had seen in ,south ,africa2 they were twenty-six in number4 ,the ancient ,mokoko must have been joined by other rivers below this1 for it becomes very broad1 and spreads out into a large lake1 of which the lake we were now in search of formed but a very small part4 ,we observed that1 wherever an ant-eater had made his hole1 shells were thrown out with the earth1 identical with those now alive in the lake4 ,when we left the ,mokoko1 ,ramotobi seemed1 for the first time1 to be at a loss as to which direction to take4 ,he had passed only once away to the west of the ,mokoko1 the scenes of his boyhood4 ,mr4 ,oswell1 while riding in front of the wagons1 happened to spy a ,bushwoman running away in a bent position1 in order to escape observation4 ,thinking it to be a lion1 he galloped up to her4 ,she thought herself captured1 and began to deliver up her poor little property1 consisting of a few traps made of cords2 but1 when ,i explained that we only wanted water1 and would pay her if she led us to it1 she consented to conduct us to a spring4 ,it was then late in the afternoon1 but she walked briskly before our horses for eight miles1 and showed us the water of ,nchokotsa4 ,after leading us to the water1 she wished to go away home1 if indeed she had any--she had fled from a party of her countrymen1 and was now living far from all others with her husband--but as it was now dark1 we wished her to remain4 ,as she believed herself still a captive1 we thought she might slip away by night2 so1 in order that she should not go away with the impression that we were dishonest1 we gave her a piece of meat and a good large bunch of beads2 at the sight of the latter she burst into a merry laugh1 and remained without suspicion4 ,at ,nchokotsa we came upon the first of a great number of salt-pans1 covered with an efflorescence of lime1 probably the nitrate4 ,a thick belt of mopane-trees 7a ',bauhinia'7 hides this salt-pan1 which is twenty miles in circumference1 entirely from the view of a person coming from the southeast2 and1 at the time the pan burst upon our view1 the setting sun was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white incrustations1 making the whole look exactly like a lake4 ,oswell threw his hat up in the air at the sight1 and shouted out a huzza which made the poor ,bushwoman and the ,bakwains think him mad4 ,i was a little behind him1 and was as completely deceived by it as he2 but1 as we had agreed to allow each other to behold the lake at the same instant1 ,i felt a little chagrined that he had1 unintentionally1 got the first glance4 ,we had no idea that the long-looked-for lake was still more than three hundred miles distant4 ,one reason of our mistake was1 that the ,river ,zouga was often spoken of by the same name as the lake1 viz41 ,noka ea ,batletli 7,river of the ,batletli74 ,the mirage on these salinas was marvelous4 ,it is never1 ,i believe1 seen in perfection1 except over such saline incrustations4 ,here not a particle of imagination was necessary for realizing the exact picture of large collections of water2 the waves danced along above1 and the shadows of the trees were vividly reflected beneath the surface in such an admirable manner1 that the loose cattle1 whose thirst had not been slaked sufficiently by the very brackish water of ,nchokotsa1 with the horses1 dogs1 and even the ,hottentots ran off toward the deceitful pools4 ,a herd of zebras in the mirage looked so exactly like elephants that ,oswell began to saddle a horse in order to hunt them2 but a sort of break in the haze dispelled the illusion4 ,looking to the west and northwest from ,nchokotsa1 we could see columns of black smoke1 exactly like those from a steam-engine1 rising to the clouds1 and were assured that these arose from the burning reeds of the ,noka ea ,batletli4 ,on the #dth of ,july we went forward on horseback toward what we supposed to be the lake1 and again and again did we seem to see it2 but at last we came to the veritable water of the ,zouga1 and found it to be a river running to the ,n4,e4 ,a village of ,bakurutse lay on the opposite bank2 these live among ,batletli1 a tribe having a click in their language1 and who were found by ,sebituane to possess large herds of the great horned cattle4 ,they seem allied to the ,hottentot family4 ,mr4 ,oswell1 in trying to cross the river1 got his horse bogged in the swampy bank4 ,two ,bakwains and ,i managed to get over by wading beside a fishing-weir4 ,the people were friendly1 and informed us that this water came out of the ,ngami4 ,this news gladdened all our hearts1 for we now felt certain of reaching our goal4 ,we might1 they said1 be a moon on the way2 but we had the ,river ,zouga at our feet1 and by following it we should at last reach the broad water4 ,next day1 when we were quite disposed to be friendly with every one1 two of the ,bamangwato1 who had been sent on before us by ,sekomi to drive away all the ,bushmen and ,bakalahari from our path1 so that they should not assist or guide us1 came and sat down by our fire4 ,we had seen their footsteps fresh in the way1 and they had watched our slow movements forward1 and wondered to see how we1 without any ,bushmen1 found our way to the waters4 ,this was the first time they had seen ,ramotobi4 ,you have reached the river now1 said they2 and we1 quite disposed to laugh at having won the game1 felt no ill-will to any one4 ,they seemed to feel no enmity to us either2 but1 after an apparently friendly conversation1 proceeded to fulfill to the last the instructions of their chief4 ,ascending the ,zouga in our front1 they circulated the report that our object was to plunder all the tribes living on the river and lake2 but when they had got half way up the river1 the principal man sickened of fever1 turned back some distance1 and died4 ,his death had a good effect1 for the villagers connected it with the injury he was attempting to do to us4 ,they all saw through ,sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in our attempt2 and though they came to us at first armed1 kind and fair treatment soon produced perfect confidence4 ,when we had gone up the bank of this beautiful river about ninety-six miles from the point where we first struck it1 and understood that we were still a considerable distance from the ,ngami1 we left all the oxen and wagons1 except ,mr4 ,oswell's1 which was the smallest1 and one team1 at ,ngabisane1 in the hope that they would be recruited for the home journey1 while we made a push for the lake4 ,the ,bechuana chief of the ,lake region1 who had sent men to ,sechele1 now sent orders to all the people on the river to assist us1 and we were received by the ,bakoba1 whose language clearly shows that they bear an affinity to the tribes in the north4 ,they call themselves ,bayeiye1 i4e41 men2 but the ,bechuanas call them ,bakoba1 which contains somewhat of the idea of slaves4 ,they have never been known to fight1 and1 indeed1 have a tradition that their forefathers1 in their first essays at war1 made their bows of the ,palma ,christi1 and1 when these broke1 they gave up fighting altogether4 ,they have invariably submitted to the rule of every horde which has overrun the countries adjacent to the rivers on which they specially love to dwell4 ,they are thus the ,quakers of the body politic in ,africa4 ,a long time after the period of our visit1 the chief of the ,lake1 thinking to make soldiers of them1 took the trouble to furnish them with shields4 ,ah6 we never had these before2 that is the reason we have always succumbed4 ,now we will fight4 ,but a marauding party came from the ,makololo1 and our ,friends at once paddled quickly1 night and day1 down the ,zouga1 never daring to look behind them till they reached the end of the river1 at the point where we first saw it4 ,the canoes of these inland sailors are truly primitive craft3 they are hollowed out of the trunks of single trees by means of iron adzes2 and if the tree has a bend1 so has the canoe4 ,i liked the frank and manly bearing of these men1 and1 instead of sitting in the wagon1 preferred a seat in one of the canoes4 ,i found they regarded their rude vessels as the ,arab does his camel4 ,they have always fires in them1 and prefer sleeping in them while on a journey to spending the night on shore4 ,on land you have lions1 say they1 serpents1 hyaenas1 and your enemies2 but in your canoe1 behind a bank of reed1 nothing can harm you4 ,their submissive disposition leads to their villages being frequently visited by hungry strangers4 ,we had a pot on the fire in the canoe by the way1 and when we drew near the villages devoured the contents4 ,when fully satisfied ourselves1 ,i found we could all look upon any intruders with perfect complacency1 and show the pot in proof of having devoured the last morsel4 ,while ascending in this way the beautifully-wooded river1 we came to a large stream flowing into it4 ,this was the ,river ,tamunak'le4 ,i inquired whence it came4 ,oh1 from a country full of rivers--so many no one can tell their number--and full of large trees4 ,this was the first confirmation of statements ,i had heard from the ,bakwains who had been with ,sebituane1 that the country beyond was not the large sandy plateau of the philosophers4 ,the prospect of a highway capable of being traversed by boats to an entirely unexplored and very populous region1 grew from that time forward stronger and stronger in my mind2 so much so that1 when we actually came to the lake1 this idea occupied such a large portion of my mental vision that the actual discovery seemed of but little importance4 ,i find ,i wrote1 when the emotions caused by the magnificent prospects of the new country were first awakened in my breast1 that they might subject me to the charge of enthusiasm1 a charge which ,i wished ,i deserved1 as nothing good or great had ever been accomplished in the world without it499 99 ,letters published by the ,royal ,geographical ,society4 ,read #aath ,february and #hth ,april1 #ahej4 ,twelve days after our departure from the wagons at ,ngabisane we came to the northeast end of ,lake ,ngami2 and on the #ast of ,august1 #ahdi1 we went down together to the broad part1 and1 for the first time1 this fine-looking sheet of water was beheld by ,europeans4 ,the direction of the lake seemed to be ,n4,n4,e4 and ,s4,s4,w4 by compass4 ,the southern portion is said to bend round to the west1 and to receive the ,teoughe from the north at its northwest extremity4 ,we could detect no horizon where we stood looking ,s4,s4,w41 nor could we form any idea of the extent of the lake1 except from the reports of the inhabitants of the district2 and1 as they professed to go round it in three days1 allowing twenty-five miles a day would make it seventy-five1 or less than seventy geographical miles in circumference4 ,other guesses have been made since as to its circumference1 ranging between seventy and one hundred miles4 ,it is shallow1 for ,i subsequently saw a native punting his canoe over seven or eight miles of the northeast end2 it can never1 therefore1 be of much value as a commercial highway4 ,in fact1 during the months preceding the annual supply of water from the north1 the lake is so shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can approach the water through the boggy1 reedy banks4 ,these are low on all sides1 but on the west there is a space devoid of trees1 showing that the waters have retired thence at no very ancient date4 ,this is another of the proofs of desiccation met with so abundantly throughout the whole country4 ,a number of dead trees lie on this space1 some of them imbedded in the mud1 right in the water4 ,we were informed by the ,bayeiye1 who live on the lake1 that when the annual inundation begins1 not only trees of great size1 but antelopes1 as the springbuck and tsessebe 7',acronotus lunata'71 are swept down by its rushing waters2 the trees are gradually driven by the winds to the opposite side1 and become imbedded in mud4 ,the water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full1 but brackish when low2 and that coming down the ,tamunak'le we found to be so clear1 cold1 and soft1 the higher we ascended1 that the idea of melting snow was suggested to our minds4 ,we found this region1 with regard to that from which we had come1 to be clearly a hollow1 the lowest point being ,lake ,kumadau2 the point of the ebullition of water1 as shown by one of ,newman's barometric thermometers1 was only between #bjg-a_/b ,deg4 and #bjf ,deg41 giving an elevation of not much more than two thousand feet above the level of the sea4 ,we had descended above two thousand feet in coming to it from ,kolobeng4 ,it is the southern and lowest part of the great river system beyond1 in which large tracts of country are inundated annually by tropical rains1 hereafter to be described4 ,a little of that water1 which in the countries farther north produces inundation1 comes as far south as #bj;d #bj'1 the latitude of the upper end of the lake1 and instead of flooding the country1 falls into the lake as into a reservoir4 ,it begins to flow down the ,embarrah1 which divides into the rivers ,tzo and ,teoughe4 ,the ,tzo divides into the ,tamunak'le and ,mababe2 the ,tamunak'le discharges itself into the ,zouga1 and the ,teoughe into the lake4 ,the flow begins either in ,march or ,april1 and the descending waters find the channels of all these rivers dried out1 except in certain pools in their beds1 which have long dry spaces between them4 ,the lake itself is very low4 ,the ,zouga is but a prolongation of the ,tamunak'le1 and an arm of the lake reaches up to the point where the one ends and the other begins4 ,the last is narrow and shallow1 while the ,zouga is broad and deep4 ,the narrow arm of the lake1 which on the map looks like a continuation of the ,zouga1 has never been observed to flow either way4 ,it is as stagnant as the lake itself4 ,the ,teoughe and ,tamunak'le1 being essentially the same river1 and receiving their supplies from the same source 7the ,embarrah or ,varra71 can never outrun each other4 ,if either could1 or if the ,teoughe could fill the lake--a thing which has never happened in modern times--then this little arm would prove a convenient escapement to prevent inundation4 ,if the lake ever becomes lower than the bed of the ,zouga1 a little of the water of the ,tamunak'le might flow into it instead of down the ,zouga2 we should then have the phenomenon of a river flowing two ways2 but this has never been observed to take place here1 and it is doubtful if it ever can occur in this locality4 ,the ,zouga is broad and deep when it leaves the ,tamunak'le1 but becomes gradually narrower as you descend about two hundred miles2 there it flows into ,kumadau1 a small lake about three or four miles broad and twelve long4 ,the water1 which higher up begins to flow in ,april1 does not make much progress in filling this lake till the end of ,june4 ,in ,september the rivers cease to flow4 ,when the supply has been more than usually abundant1 a little water flows beyond ,kumadau1 in the bed first seen by us on the #dth of ,july2 if the quantity were larger1 it might go further in the dry rocky bed of the ,zouga1 since seen still further to the east4 ,the water supply of this part of the river system1 as will be more fully explained further on1 takes place in channels prepared for a much more copious flow4 ,it resembles a deserted ,eastern garden1 where all the embankments and canals for irrigation can be traced1 but where1 the main dam and sluices having been allowed to get out of repair1 only a small portion can be laid under water4 ,in the case of the ,zouga the channel is perfect1 but water enough to fill the whole channel never comes down2 and before it finds its way much beyond ,kumadau1 the upper supply ceases to run and the rest becomes evaporated4 ,the higher parts of its bed even are much broader and more capacious than the lower toward ,kumadau4 ,the water is not absorbed so much as lost in filling up an empty channel1 from which it is to be removed by the air and sun4 ,there is1 ,i am convinced1 no such thing in the country as a river running into sand and becoming lost4 ,the phenomenon1 so convenient for geographers1 haunted my fancy for years2 but ,i have failed in discovering any thing except a most insignificant approach to it4 ,my chief object in coming to the lake was to visit ,sebituane1 the great chief of the ,makololo1 who was reported to live some two hundred miles beyond4 ,we had now come to a half-tribe of the ,bamangwato1 called ,batauana4 ,their chief was a young man named ,lechulatebe4 ,sebituane had conquered his father ,moremi1 and ,lechulatebe received part of his education while a captive among the ,bayeiye4 ,his uncle1 a sensible man1 ransomed him2 and1 having collected a number of families together1 abdicated the chieftainship in favor of his nephew4 ,as ,lechulatebe had just come into power1 he imagined that the proper way of showing his abilities was to act directly contrary to every thing that his uncle advised4 ,when we came1 the uncle recommended him to treat us handsomely1 therefore the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only4 ,it ought to have been an ox4 ,so ,i proposed to my companions to loose the animal and let him go1 as a hint to his master4 ,they1 however1 did not wish to insult him4 ,i1 being more of a native1 and familiar with their customs1 knew that this shabby present was an insult to us4 ,we wished to purchase some goats or oxen2 ,lechulatebe offered us elephants' tusks4 ,no1 we can not eat these2 we want something to fill our stomachs4 ,neither can ,i2 but ,i hear you white men are all very fond of these bones1 so ,i offer them2 ,i want to put the goats into my own stomach4 ,a trader1 who accompanied us1 was then purchasing ivory at the rate of ten good large tusks for a musket worth thirteen shillings4 ,they were called bones2 and ,i myself saw eight instances in which the tusks had been left to rot with the other bones where the elephant fell4 ,the ,batauana never had a chance of a market before2 but1 in less than two years after our discovery1 not a man of them could be found who was not keenly alive to the great value of the article4 ,on the day after our arrival at the lake1 ,i applied to ,lechulatebe for guides to ,sebituane4 ,as he was much afraid of that chief1 he objected1 fearing lest other white men should go thither also1 and give ,sebituane guns2 whereas1 if the traders came to him alone1 the possession of fire-arms would give him such a superiority that ,sebituane would be afraid of him4 ,it was in vain to explain that ,i would inculcate peace between them--that ,sebituane had been a father to him and ,sechele1 and was as anxious to see me as he1 ,lechulatebe1 had been4 ,he offered to give me as much ivory as ,i needed without going to that chief2 but when ,i refused to take any1 he unwillingly consented to give me guides4 ,next day1 however1 when ,oswell and ,i were prepared to start1 with the horses only1 we received a senseless refusal2 and like ,sekomi1 who had thrown obstacles in our way1 he sent men to the ,bayeiye with orders to refuse us a passage across the river4 ,trying hard to form a raft at a narrow part1 ,i worked many hours in the water2 but the dry wood was so worm-eaten it would not bear the weight of a single person4 ,i was not then aware of the number of alligators which exist in the ,zouga1 and never think of my labor in the water without feeling thankful that ,i escaped their jaws4 ,the season was now far advanced2 and as ,mr4 ,oswell1 with his wonted generous feelings1 volunteered1 on the spot1 to go down to the ,cape and bring up a boat1 we resolved to make our way south again4 ,coming down the ,zouga1 we had now time to look at its banks4 ,these are very beautiful1 resembling closely many parts of the ,river ,clyde above ,glasgow4 ,the formation is soft calcareous tufa1 such as forms the bottom of all this basin4 ,the banks are perpendicular on the side to which the water swings1 and sloping and grassy on the other4 ,the slopes are selected for the pitfalls designed by the ,bayeiye to entrap the animals as they come to drink4 ,these are about seven or eight feet deep1 three or four feet wide at the mouth1 and gradually decrease till they are only about a foot wide at the bottom4 ,the mouth is an oblong square 7the only square thing made by the ,bechuanas1 for every thing else is round71 and the long diameter at the surface is about equal to the depth4 ,the decreasing width toward the bottom is intended to make the animal wedge himself more firmly in by his weight and struggles4 ,the pitfalls are usually in pairs1 with a wall a foot thick left uncut between the ends of each1 so that if the beast1 when it feels its fore legs descending1 should try to save itself from going in altogether by striding the hind legs1 he would spring forward and leap into the second with a force which insures the fall of his whole body into the trap4 ,they are covered with great care4 ,all the excavated earth is removed to a distance1 so as not to excite suspicion in the minds of the animals4 ,reeds and grass are laid across the top2 above this the sand is thrown1 and watered so as to appear exactly like the rest of the spot4 ,some of our party plumped into these pitfalls more than once1 even when in search of them1 in order to open them to prevent the loss of our cattle4 ,if an ox sees a hole1 he carefully avoids it2 and old elephants have been known to precede the herd and whisk off the coverings of the pitfalls on each side all the way down to the water4 ,we have known instances in which the old among these sagacious animals have actually lifted the young out of the trap4 ,the trees which adorn the banks are magnificent4 ,two enormous baobabs 7',adansonia digitata'71 or mowanas1 grow near its confluence with the lake where we took the observations for the latitude 7#bj;d #bj' ,s474 ,we were unable to ascertain the longitude of the lake1 as our watches were useless2 it may be between #bb ,deg4 and #bc ,deg4 ,e4 ,the largest of the two baobabs was #gf feet in girth4 ,the palmyra appears here and there among trees not met with in the south4 ,the mokuchong1 or moshoma1 bears an edible fruit of indifferent quality1 but the tree itself would be a fine specimen of arboreal beauty in any part of the world4 ,the trunk is often converted into canoes4 ,the motsouri1 which bears a pink plum containing a pleasant acid juice1 resembles an orange-tree in its dark evergreen foliage1 and a cypress in its form4 ,it was now winter-time1 and we saw nothing of the flora4 ,the plants and bushes were dry2 but wild indigo abounded1 as indeed it does over large tracts of ,africa4 ,it is called mohetolo1 or the changer1 by the boys1 who dye their ornaments of straw with the juice4 ,there are two kinds of cotton in the country1 and the ,mashona1 who convert it into cloth1 dye it blue with this plant4 ,we found the elephants in prodigious numbers on the southern bank4 ,they come to drink by night1 and after having slaked their thirst--in doing which they throw large quantities of water over themselves1 and are heard1 while enjoying the refreshment1 screaming with delight--they evince their horror of pitfalls by setting off in a straight line to the desert1 and never diverge till they are eight or ten miles off4 ,they are smaller here than in the countries farther south4 ,at the ,limpopo1 for instance1 they are upward of twelve feet high2 here1 only eleven3 farther north we shall find them nine feet only4 ,the koodoo1 or tolo1 seemed smaller1 too1 than those we had been accustomed to see4 ,we saw specimens of the kuabaoba1 or straight-horned rhinoceros 7',r4 ,oswellii'71 which is a variety of the white 7',r4 simus'72 and we found that1 from the horn being projected downward1 it did not obstruct the line of vision1 so that this species is able to be much more wary than its neighbors4 ,we discovered an entirely new species of antelope1 called leche or lechwi4 ,it is a beautiful water-antelope of a light brownish-yellow color4 ,its horns--exactly like those of the ',aigoceros ellipsiprimnus'1 the waterbuck1 or tumogo1 of the ,bechuanas--rise from the head with a slight bend backward1 then curve forward at the points4 ,the chest1 belly1 and orbits are nearly white1 the front of the legs and ankles deep brown4 ,from the horns1 along the nape to the withers1 the male has a small mane of the same yellowish color with the rest of the skin1 and the tail has a tuft of black hair4 ,it is never found a mile from water2 islets in marshes and rivers are its favorite haunts1 and it is quite unknown except in the central humid basin of ,africa4 ,having a good deal of curiosity1 it presents a noble appearance as it stands gazing1 with head erect1 at the approaching stranger4 ,when it resolves to decamp1 it lowers its head1 and lays its horns down to a level with the withers2 it then begins with a waddling trot1 which ends in its galloping and springing over bushes like the pallahs4 ,it invariably runs to the water1 and crosses it by a succession of bounds1 each of which appears to be from the bottom4 ,we thought the flesh good at first1 but soon got tired of it4 ,great shoals of excellent fish come down annually with the access of waters4 ,the mullet 7',mugil ,africanus'7 is the most abundant4 ,they are caught in nets4 ,the ',glanis siluris'1 a large1 broad-headed fish1 without scales1 and barbed--called by the natives mosala--attains an enormous size and fatness4 ,they are caught so large that when a man carries one over his shoulder the tail reaches the ground4 ,it is a vegetable feeder1 and in many of its habits resembles the eel4 ,like most lophoid fishes1 it has the power of retaining a large quantity of water in a part of its great head1 so that it can leave the river1 and even be buried in the mud of dried-up pools1 without being destroyed4 ,another fish closely resembling this1 and named ',clarias capensis' by ,dr4 ,smith1 is widely diffused throughout the interior1 and often leaves the rivers for the sake of feeding in pools4 ,as these dry up1 large numbers of them are entrapped by the people4 ,a water-snake1 yellow-spotted and dark brown1 is often seen swimming along with its head above the water3 it is quite harmless1 and is relished as food by the ,bayeiye4 ,they mention ten kinds of fish in their river2 and1 in their songs of praise to the ,zouga1 say1 ,the messenger sent in haste is always forced to spend the night on the way by the abundance of food you place before him4 ,the ,bayeiye live much on fish1 which is quite an abomination to the ,bechuanas of the south2 and they catch them in large numbers by means of nets made of the fine1 strong fibres of the hibiscus1 which grows abundantly in all moist places4 ,their float-ropes are made of the ife1 or1 as it is now called1 the ',sanseviere ,angolensis'1 a flag-looking plant1 having a very strong fibre1 that abounds from ,kolobeng to ,angola2 and the floats themselves are pieces of a water-plant containing valves at each joint1 which retain the air in cells about an inch long4 ,the mode of knotting the nets is identical with our own4 ,they also spear the fish with javelins having a light handle1 which readily floats on the surface4 ,they show great dexterity in harpooning the hippopotamus2 and1 the barbed blade of the spear being attached to a rope made of the young leaves of the palmyra1 the animal can not rid himself of the canoe1 attached to him in whale fashion1 except by smashing it1 which he not unfrequently does by his teeth or by a stroke of his hind foot4 ,on returning to the ,bakurutse1 we found that their canoes for fishing were simply large bundles of reeds tied together4 ,such a canoe would be a ready extemporaneous pontoon for crossing any river that had reedy banks4 ,chapter #d4 ,leave ,kolobeng again for the ,country of ,sebituane--,reach the ,zouga-- ,the ,tsetse--,a ,party of ,englishmen--,death of ,mr4 ,rider--,obtain ,guides--,children fall sick with ,fever--,relinquish the ,attempt to reach ,sebituane--,mr4 ,oswell's ,elephant-hunting--,return to ,kolobeng--,make a third ,start thence--,reach ,nchokotsa--,salt-pans--,links1 or ,springs--,bushmen--,our ,guide ,shobo--,the ,banajoa--,an ugly ,chief--,the ,tsetse--,bite fatal to domestic ,animals1 but harmless to wild ,animals and ,man--,operation of the ,poison--,losses caused by it--,the ,makololo-- ,our ,meeting with ,sebituane--,sketch of his ,career--,his ,courage and ,conquests--,manoeuvres of the ,batoka--,he outwits them--,his ,wars with the ,matebele--,predictions of a native ,prophet--,successes of the ,makololo--,renewed ,attacks of the ,matebele--,the ,island of ,loyelo--,defeat of the ,matebele--,sebituane's ,policy--,his ,kindness to ,strangers and to the ,poor--,his sudden ,illness and ,death--,succeeded by his ,daughter--,her ,friendliness to us--,discovery1 in ,june1 #ahea1 of the ,zambesi flowing in the ,centre of the ,continent--,its ,size--,the ,mambari--,the ,slave-trade--,determine to send ,family to ,england--,return to the ,cape in ,april1 #aheb--,safe ,transit through the ,caffre ,country during ,hostilities--,need of a ,special ,correspondent--,kindness of the ,london ,missionary ,society--,assistance afforded by the ,astronomer ,royal at the ,cape4 ,having returned to ,kolobeng1 ,i remained there till ,april1 #ahej1 and then left in company with ,mrs4 ,livingstone1 our three children1 and the chief ,sechele--who had now bought a wagon of his own--in order to go across the ,zouga at its lower end1 with the intention of proceeding up the northern bank till we gained the ,tamunak'le1 and of then ascending that river to visit ,sebituane in the north4 ,sekomi had given orders to fill up the wells which we had dug with so much labor at ,serotli1 so we took the more eastern route through the ,bamangwato town and by ,letloche4 ,that chief asked why ,i had avoided him in our former journeys4 ,i replied that my reason was that ,i knew he did not wish me to go to the lake1 and ,i did not want to quarrel with him4 ,well1 he said1 you beat me then1 and ,i am content4 ,parting with ,sechele at the ford1 as he was eager to visit ,lechulatebe1 we went along the northern woody bank of the ,zouga with great labor1 having to cut down very many trees to allow the wagons to pass4 ,our losses by oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy4 ,the ,bayeiye kindly opened the pits when they knew of our approach2 but when that was not the case1 we could blame no one on finding an established custom of the country inimical to our interests4 ,on approaching the confluence of the ,tamunak'le we were informed that the fly called tsetse99 abounded on its banks4 ,this was a barrier we never expected to meet2 and1 as it might have brought our wagons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness1 where no supplies for the children could be obtained1 we were reluctantly compelled to recross the ,zouga4 99 ',glossina morsitans'1 the first specimens of which were brought to ,england in #ahdh by my friend ,major ,vardon1 from the banks of the ,limpopo4 ,from the ,bayeiye we learned that a party of ,englishmen1 who had come to the lake in search of ivory1 were all laid low by fever1 so we traveled hastily down about sixty miles to render what aid was in our power4 ,we were grieved to find1 as we came near1 that ,mr4 ,alfred ,rider1 an enterprising young artist who had come to make sketches of this country and of the lake immediately after its discovery1 had died of fever before our arrival2 but by the aid of medicines and such comforts as could be made by the only ,english lady who ever visited the lake1 the others happily recovered4 ,the unfinished drawing of ,lake ,ngami was made by ,mr4 ,rider just before his death1 and has been kindly lent for this work by his bereaved mother4 ,sechele used all his powers of eloquence with ,lechulatebe to induce him to furnish guides that ,i might be able to visit ,sebituane on ox-back1 while ,mrs4 ,livingstone and the children remained at ,lake ,ngami4 ,he yielded at last4 ,i had a very superior ,london-made gun1 the gift of ,lieutenant ,arkwright1 on which ,i placed the greatest value1 both on account of the donor and the impossibility of my replacing it4 ,lechulatebe fell violently in love with it1 and offered whatever number of elephants' tusks ,i might ask for it4 ,i too was enamored with ,sebituane2 and as he promised in addition that he would furnish ,mrs4 ,livingstone with meat all the time of my absence1 his arguments made me part with the gun4 ,though he had no ivory at the time to pay me1 ,i felt the piece would be well spent on those terms1 and delivered it to him4 ,all being ready for our departure1 ,i took ,mrs4 ,livingstone about six miles from the town1 that she might have a peep at the broad part of the lake4 ,next morning we had other work to do than part1 for our little boy and girl were seized with fever4 ,on the day following1 all our servants were down too with the same complaint4 ,as nothing is better in these cases than change of place1 ,i was forced to give up the hope of seeing ,sebituane that year2 so1 leaving my gun as part payment for guides next year1 we started for the pure air of the ,desert4 ,some mistake had happened in the arrangement with ,mr4 ,oswell1 for we met him on the ,zouga on our return1 and he devoted the rest of this season to elephant-hunting1 at which the natives universally declare he is the greatest adept that ever came into the country4 ,he hunted without dogs4 ,it is remarkable that this lordly animal is so completely harassed by the presence of a few yelping curs as to be quite incapable of attending to man4 ,he makes awkward attempts to crush them by falling on his knees2 and sometimes places his forehead against a tree ten inches in diameter2 glancing on one side of the tree and then on the other1 he pushes it down before him1 as if he thought thereby to catch his enemies4 ,the only danger the huntsman has to apprehend is the dogs running toward him1 and thereby leading the elephant to their master4 ,mr4 ,oswell has been known to kill four large old male elephants a day4 ,the value of the ivory in these cases would be one hundred guineas4 ,we had reason to be proud of his success1 for the inhabitants conceived from it a very high idea of ,english courage2 and when they wished to flatter me would say1 ,if you were not a missionary you would just be like ,oswell2 you would not hunt with dogs either4 ,when1 in #aheb1 we came to the ,cape1 my black coat eleven years out of fashion1 and without a penny of salary to draw1 we found that ,mr4 ,oswell had most generously ordered an outfit for the half-naked children1 which cost about #bjj ,pounds1 and presented it to us1 saying he thought ,mrs4 ,livingstone had a right to the game of her own preserves4 ,foiled in this second attempt to reach ,sebituane1 we returned again to ,kolobeng1 whither we were soon followed by a number of messengers from that chief himself4 ,when he heard of our attempts to visit him1 he dispatched three detachments of his men with thirteen brown cows to ,lechulatebe1 thirteen white cows to ,sekomi1 and thirteen black cows to ,sechele1 with a request to each to assist the white men to reach him4 ,their policy1 however1 was to keep him out of view1 and act as his agents in purchasing with his ivory the goods he wanted4 ,this is thoroughly ,african2 and that continent being without friths and arms of the sea1 the tribes in the centre have always been debarred from ,european intercourse by its universal prevalence among all the people around the coasts4 ,before setting out on our third journey to ,sebituane1 it was necessary to visit ,kuruman2 and ,sechele1 eager1 for the sake of the commission thereon1 to get the ivory of that chief into his own hands1 allowed all the messengers to leave before our return4 ,sekomi1 however1 was more than usually gracious1 and even furnished us with a guide1 but no one knew the path beyond ,nchokotsa which we intended to follow4 ,when we reached that point1 we found that the main spring of the gun of another of his men1 who was well acquainted with the ,bushmen1 through whose country we should pass1 had opportunely broken4 ,i never undertook to mend a gun with greater zest than this2 for1 under promise of his guidance1 we went to the north instead of westward4 ,all the other guides were most liberally rewarded by ,mr4 ,oswell4 ,we passed quickly over a hard country1 which is perfectly flat4 ,a little soil lying on calcareous tufa1 over a tract of several hundreds of miles1 supports a vegetation of fine sweet short grass1 and mopane and baobab trees4 ,on several parts of this we found large salt-pans1 one of which1 ,ntwetwe1 is fifteen miles broad and one hundred long4 ,the latitude might have been taken on its horizon as well as upon the sea4 ,although these curious spots seem perfectly level1 all those in this direction have a gentle slope to the northeast3 thither the rain-water1 which sometimes covers them1 gently gravitates4 ,this1 it may be recollected1 is the direction of the ,zouga4 ,the salt dissolved in the water has by this means all been transferred to one pan in that direction1 named ,chuantsa2 on it we see a cake of salt and lime an inch and a half thick4 ,all the others have an efflorescence of lime and one of the nitrates only1 and some are covered thickly with shells4 ,these shells are identical with those of the mollusca of ,lake ,ngami and the ,zouga4 ,there are three varieties1 spiral1 univalve1 and bivalve4 ,in every salt-pan in the country there is a spring of water on one side4 ,i can remember no exception to this rule4 ,the water of these springs is brackish1 and contains the nitrate of soda4 ,in one instance there are two springs1 and one more saltish than the other4 ,if this supply came from beds of rock salt the water would not be drinkable1 as it generally is1 and in some instances1 where the salt contained in the pan in which these springs appear has been removed by human agency1 no fresh deposit occurs4 ,it is therefore probable that these deposits of salt are the remains of the very slightly brackish lakes of antiquity1 large portions of which must have been dried out in the general desiccation4 ,we see an instance in ,lake ,ngami1 which1 when low1 becomes brackish1 and this view seems supported by the fact that the largest quantities of salt have been found in the deepest hollows or lowest valleys1 which have no outlet or outgoing gorge2 and a fountain1 about thirty miles south of the ,bamangwato--the temperature of which is upward of #ajj ,deg4--while strongly impregnated with pure salt1 being on a flat part of the country1 is accompanied by no deposit4 ,when these deposits occur in a flat tufaceous country like the present1 a large space is devoid of vegetation1 on account of the nitrates dissolving the tufa1 and keeping it in a state unfavorable to the growth of plants4 ,we found a great number of wells in this tufa4 ,a place called ,matlomagan-yana1 or the ,links1 is quite a chain of these never-failing springs4 ,as they occasionally become full in seasons when no rain falls1 and resemble somewhat in this respect the rivers we have already mentioned1 it is probable they receive some water by percolation from the river system in the country beyond4 ,among these links we found many families of ,bushmen2 and1 unlike those on the plains of the ,kalahari1 who are generally of short stature and light yellow color1 these were tall1 strapping fellows1 of dark complexion4 ,heat alone does not produce blackness of skin1 but heat with moisture seems to insure the deepest hue4 ,one of these ,bushmen1 named ,shobo1 consented to be our guide over the waste between these springs and the country of ,sebituane4 ,shobo gave us no hope of water in less than a month4 ,providentially1 however1 we came sooner than we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of pools4 ,it is impossible to convey an idea of the dreary scene on which we entered after leaving this spot3 the only vegetation was a low scrub in deep sand2 not a bird or insect enlivened the landscape4 ,it was1 without exception1 the most uninviting prospect ,i ever beheld2 and1 to make matters worse1 our guide ,shobo wandered on the second day4 ,we coaxed him on at night1 but he went to all points of the compass on the trails of elephants which had been here in the rainy season1 and then would sit down in the path1 and in his broken ,sichuana say1 ,no water1 all country only2 ,shobo sleeps2 he breaks down2 country only2 and then coolly curl himself up and go to sleep4 ,the oxen were terribly fatigued and thirsty2 and on the morning of the fourth day1 ,shobo1 after professing ignorance of every thing1 vanished altogether4 ,we went on in the direction in which we last saw him1 and about eleven o'clock began to see birds2 then the trail of a rhinoceros4 ,at this we unyoked the oxen1 and they1 apparently knowing the sign1 rushed along to find the water in the ,river ,mahabe1 which comes from the ,tamunak'le1 and lay to the west of us4 ,the supply of water in the wagons had been wasted by one of our servants1 and by the afternoon only a small portion remained for the children4 ,this was a bitterly anxious night2 and next morning the less there was of water1 the more thirsty the little rogues became4 ,the idea of their perishing before our eyes was terrible4 ,it would almost have been a relief to me to have been reproached with being the entire cause of the catastrophe2 but not one syllable of upbraiding was uttered by their mother1 though the tearful eye told the agony within4 ,in the afternoon of the fifth day1 to our inexpressible relief1 some of the men returned with a supply of that fluid of which we had never before felt the true value4 ,the cattle1 in rushing along to the water in the ,mahabe1 probably crossed a small patch of trees containing tsetse1 an insect which was shortly to become a perfect pest to us4 ,shobo had found his way to the ,bayeiye1 and appeared1 when we came up to the river1 at the head of a party2 and1 as he wished to show his importance before his friends1 he walked up boldly and commanded our whole cavalcade to stop1 and to bring forth fire and tobacco1 while he coolly sat down and smoked his pipe4 ,it was such an inimitably natural way of showing off1 that we all stopped to admire the acting1 and1 though he had left us previously in the lurch1 we all liked ,shobo1 a fine specimen of that wonderful people1 the ,bushmen4 ,next day we came to a village of ,banajoa1 a tribe which extends far to the eastward4 ,they were living on the borders of a marsh in which the ,mahabe terminates4 ,they had lost their crop of corn 7',holcus sorghum'71 and now subsisted almost entirely on the root called tsitla1 a kind of aroidoea1 which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tasted starch4 ,when dried1 pounded into meal1 and allowed to ferment1 it forms a not unpleasant article of food4 ,the women shave all the hair off their heads1 and seem darker than the ,bechuanas4 ,their huts were built on poles1 and a fire is made beneath by night1 in order that the smoke may drive away the mosquitoes1 which abound on the ,mababe and ,tamunak'le more than in any other part of the country4 ,the head man of this village1 ,majane1 seemed a little wanting in ability1 but had had wit enough to promote a younger member of the family to the office4 ,this person1 the most like the ugly negro of the tobacconists' shops ,i ever saw1 was called ,moroa ,majane1 or son of ,majane1 and proved an active guide across the ,river ,sonta1 and to the banks of the ,chobe1 in the country of ,sebituane4 ,we had come through another tsetse district by night1 and at once passed our cattle over to the northern bank to preserve them from its ravages4 ,a few remarks on the ,tsetse1 or ',glossina morsitans'1 may here be appropriate4 ,it is not much larger than the common house-fly1 and is nearly of the same brown color as the common honey-bee2 the after part of the body has three or four yellow bars across it2 the wings project beyond this part considerably1 and it is remarkably alert1 avoiding most dexterously all attempts to capture it with the hand at common temperatures2 in the cool of the mornings and evenings it is less agile4 ,its peculiar buzz when once heard can never be forgotten by the traveler whose means of locomotion are domestic animals2 for it is well known that the bite of this poisonous insect is certain death to the ox1 horse1 and dog4 ,in this journey1 though we were not aware of any great number having at any time lighted on our cattle1 we lost forty-three fine oxen by its bite4 ,we watched the animals carefully1 and believe that not a score of flies were ever upon them4 ,a most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is its perfect harmlessness in man and wild animals1 and even calves1 so long as they continue to suck the cows4 ,we never experienced the slightest injury from them ourselves1 personally1 although we lived two months in their ,,habitat1 which was in this case as sharply defined as in many others1 for the south bank of the ,chobe was infested by them1 and the northern bank1 where our cattle were placed1 only fifty yards distant1 contained not a single specimen4 ,this was the more remarkable1 as we often saw natives carrying over raw meat to the opposite bank with many tsetse settled upon it4 ,the poison does not seem to be injected by a sting1 or by ova placed beneath the skin2 for1 when one is allowed to feed freely on the hand1 it is seen to insert the middle prong of three portions1 into which the proboscis divides1 somewhat deeply into the true skin2 it then draws it out a little way1 and it assumes a crimson color as the mandibles come into brisk operation4 ,the previously shrunken belly swells out1 and1 if left undisturbed1 the fly quietly departs when it is full4 ,a slight itching irritation follows1 but not more than in the bite of a mosquito4 ,in the ox this same bite produces no more immediate effects than in man4 ,it does not startle him as the gad-fly does2 but a few days afterward the following symptoms supervene3 the eye and nose begin to run1 the coat stares as if the animal were cold1 a swelling appears under the jaw1 and sometimes at the navel2 and1 though the animal continues to graze1 emaciation commences1 accompanied with a peculiar flaccidity of the muscles1 and this proceeds unchecked until1 perhaps months afterward1 purging comes on1 and the animal1 no longer able to graze1 perishes in a state of extreme exhaustion4 ,those which are in good condition often perish soon after the bite is inflicted with staggering and blindness1 as if the brain were affected by it4 ,sudden changes of temperature produced by falls of rain seem to hasten the progress of the complaint2 but1 in general1 the emaciation goes on uninterruptedly for months1 and1 do what we will1 the poor animals perish miserably4 ,when opened1 the cellular tissue on the surface of the body beneath the skin is seen to be injected with air1 as if a quantity of soap-bubbles were scattered over it1 or a dishonest1 awkward butcher had been trying to make it look fat4 ,the fat is of a greenish-yellow color and of an oily consistence4 ,all the muscles are flabby1 and the heart often so soft that the fingers may be made to meet through it4 ,the lungs and liver partake of the disease4 ,the stomach and bowels are pale and empty1 and the gall-bladder is distended with bile4 ,these symptoms seem to indicate what is probably the case1 a poison in the blood1 the germ of which enters when the proboscis is inserted to draw blood4 ,the poison-germ1 contained in a bulb at the root of the proboscis1 seems capable1 although very minute in quantity1 of reproducing itself1 for the blood after death by tsetse is very small in quantity1 and scarcely stains the hands in dissection4 ,i shall have by-and-by to mention another insect1 which by the same operation produces in the human subject both vomiting and purging4 ,the mule1 ass1 and goat enjoy the same immunity from the tsetse as man and the game4 ,many large tribes on the ,zambesi can keep no domestic animals except the goat1 in consequence of the scourge existing in their country4 ,our children were frequently bitten1 yet suffered no harm2 and we saw around us numbers of zebras1 buffaloes1 pigs1 pallahs and other antelopes1 feeding quietly in the very habitat of the tsetse1 yet as undisturbed by its bite as oxen are when they first receive the fatal poison4 ,there is not so much difference in the natures of the horse and zebra1 the buffalo and ox1 the sheep and antelope1 as to afford any satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon4 ,is a man not as much a domestic animal as a dog8 ,the curious feature in the case1 that dogs perish though fed on milk1 whereas the calves escape so long as they continue sucking1 made us imagine that the mischief might be produced by some plant in the locality1 and not by tsetse2 but ,major ,vardon1 of the ,madras ,army1 settled that point by riding a horse up to a small hill infested by the insect without allowing him time to graze1 and1 though he only remained long enough to take a view of the country and catch some specimens of tsetse on the animal1 in ten days afterward the horse was dead4 ,the well-known disgust which the tsetse shows to animal excreta1 as exhibited when a village is placed in its habitat1 has been observed and turned to account by some of the doctors4 ,they mix droppings of animals1 human milk1 and some medicines together1 and smear the animals that are about to pass through a tsetse district2 but this1 though it proves a preventive at the time1 is not permanent4 ,there is no cure yet known for the disease4 ,a careless herdsman allowing a large number of cattle to wander into a tsetse district loses all except the calves2 and ,sebituane once lost nearly the entire cattle of his tribe1 very many thousands1 by unwittingly coming under its influence4 ,inoculation does not insure immunity1 as animals which have been slightly bitten in one year may perish by a greater number of bites in the next2 but it is probable that with the increase of guns the game will perish1 as has happened in the south1 and the tsetse1 deprived of food1 may become extinct simultaneously with the larger animals4 ,the ,makololo whom we met on the ,chobe were delighted to see us2 and as their chief ,sebituane was about twenty miles down the river1 ,mr4 ,oswell and ,i proceeded in canoes to his temporary residence4 ,he had come from the ,barotse town of ,naliele down to ,sesheke as soon as he heard of white men being in search of him1 and now came one hundred miles more to bid us welcome into his country4 ,he was upon an island1 with all his principal men around him1 and engaged in singing when we arrived4 ,it was more like church music than the sing-song ee ee ee1 ae ae ae1 of the ,bechuanas of the south1 and they continued the tune for some seconds after we approached4 ,we informed him of the difficulties we had encountered1 and how glad we were that they were all at an end by at last reaching his presence4 ,he signified his own joy1 and added1 ,your cattle are all bitten by the tsetse1 and will certainly die2 but never mind1 ,i have oxen1 and will give you as many as you need4 ,we1 in our ignorance1 then thought that as so few tsetse had bitten them no great mischief would follow4 ,he then presented us with an ox and a jar of honey as food1 and handed us over to the care of ,mahale1 who had headed the party to ,kolobeng1 and would now fain appropriate to himself the whole credit of our coming4 ,prepared skins of oxen1 as soft as cloth1 were given to cover us through the night2 and1 as nothing could be returned to this chief1 ,mahale became the owner of them4 ,long before it was day ,sebituane came1 and sitting down by the fire1 which was lighted for our benefit behind the hedge where we lay1 he narrated the difficulties he had himself experienced1 when a young man1 in crossing that same desert which we had mastered long afterward4 ,as he has been most remarkable in his career1 and was unquestionably the greatest man in all that country1 a short sketch of his life may prove interesting to the reader4 ,sebituane was about forty-five years of age2 of a tall and wiry form1 an olive or coffee-and-milk color1 and slightly bald2 in manner cool and collected1 and more frank in his answers than any other chief ,i ever met4 ,he was the greatest warrior ever heard of beyond the colony2 for1 unlike ,mosilikatse1 ,dingaan1 and others1 he always led his men into battle himself4 ,when he saw the enemy1 he felt the edge of his battle-axe1 and said1 ,aha6 it is sharp1 and whoever turns his back on the enemy will feel its edge4 ,so fleet of foot was he1 that all his people knew there was no escape for the coward1 as any such would be cut down without mercy4 ,in some instances of skulking he allowed the individual to return home2 then calling him1 he would say1 ,ah6 you prefer dying at home to dying in the field1 do you8 ,you shall have your desire4 ,this was the signal for his immediate execution4 ,he came from the country near the sources of the ,likwa and ,namagari rivers in the south1 so we met him eight hundred or nine hundred miles from his birth-place4 ,he was not the son of a chief1 though related closely to the reigning family of the ,basutu2 and when1 in an attack by ,sikonyele1 the tribe was driven out of one part1 ,sebituane was one in that immense horde of savages driven back by the ,griquas from ,kuruman in #ahbd499 ,he then fled to the north with an insignificant party of men and cattle4 ,at ,melita the ,bangwaketse collected the ,bakwains1 ,bakatla1 and ,bahurutse1 to eat them up4 ,placing his men in front1 and the women behind the cattle1 he routed the whole of his enemies at one blow4 ,having thus conquered ,makabe1 the chief of the ,bangwaketse1 he took immediate possession of his town and all his goods4 99 ,see an account of this affair in ,moffat's ,missionary ,enterprise in ,africa4 ,sebituane subsequently settled at the place called ,litubaruba1 where ,sechele now dwells1 and his people suffered severely in one of those unrecorded attacks by white men1 in which murder is committed and materials laid up in the conscience for a future judgment4 ,a great variety of fortune followed him in the northern part of the ,bechuana country2 twice he lost all his cattle by the attacks of the ,matabele1 but always kept his people together1 and retook more than he lost4 ,he then crossed the ,desert by nearly the same path that we did4 ,he had captured a guide1 and1 as it was necessary to travel by night in order to reach water1 the guide took advantage of this and gave him the slip4 ,after marching till morning1 and going as they thought right1 they found themselves on the trail of the day before4 ,many of his cattle burst away from him in the phrensy of thirst1 and rushed back to ,serotli1 then a large piece of water1 and to ,mashue and ,lopepe1 the habitations of their original owners4 ,he stocked himself again among the ,batletli1 on ,lake ,kumadau1 whose herds were of the large-horned species of cattle499 ,conquering all around the lake1 he heard of white men living at the west coast2 and1 haunted by what seems to have been the dream of his whole life1 a desire to have intercourse with the white man1 he passed away to the southwest1 into the parts opened up lately by ,messrs4 ,galton and ,andersson4 ,there1 suffering intensely from thirst1 he and his party came to a small well4 ,he decided that the men1 not the cattle1 should drink it1 the former being of most value1 as they could fight for more should these be lost4 ,in the morning they found the cattle had escaped to the ,damaras4 99 ,we found the ,batauana in possession of this breed when we discovered ,lake ,ngami4 ,one of these horns1 brought to ,england by ,major ,vardon1 will hold no less than twenty-one imperial pints of water2 and a pair1 brought by ,mr4 ,oswell1 and now in the possession of ,colonel ,steele1 measures from tip to tip eight and a half feet4 ,returning to the north poorer than he started1 he ascended the ,teoughe to the hill ,sorila1 and crossed over a swampy country to the eastward4 ,pursuing his course onward to the low-lying basin of the ,leeambye1 he saw that it presented no attraction to a pastoral tribe like his1 so he moved down that river among the ,bashubia and ,batoka1 who were then living in all their glory4 ,his narrative resembled closely the ,commentaries of ,caesar1 and the history of the ,british in ,india4 ,he was always forced to attack the different tribes1 and to this day his men justify every step he took as perfectly just and right4 ,the ,batoka lived on large islands in the ,leeambye or ,zambesi1 and1 feeling perfectly secure in their fastnesses1 often allured fugitive or wandering tribes on to uninhabited islets on pretense of ferrying them across1 and there left them to perish for the sake of their goods4 ,sekomi1 the chief of the ,bamangwato1 was1 when a child1 in danger of meeting this fate2 but a man still living had compassion on him1 and enabled his mother to escape with him by night4 ,the river is so large that the sharpest eye can not tell the difference between an island and the bend of the opposite bank2 but ,sebituane1 with his usual foresight1 requested the island chief who ferried him across to take his seat in the canoe with him1 and detained him by his side till all his people and cattle were safely landed4 ,the whole ,batoka country was then densely peopled1 and they had a curious taste for ornamenting their villages with the skulls of strangers4 ,when ,sebituane appeared near the great falls1 an immense army collected to make trophies of the ,makololo skulls2 but1 instead of succeeding in this1 they gave him a good excuse for conquering them1 and capturing so many cattle that his people were quite incapable of taking any note of the sheep and goats4 ,he overran all the high lands toward the ,kafue1 and settled in what is called a pastoral country1 of gently undulating plains1 covered with short grass and but little forest4 ,the ,makololo have never lost their love for this fine1 healthy region4 ,but the ,matebele1 a ,caffre or ,zulu tribe1 under ,mosilikatse1 crossed the ,zambesi1 and1 attacking ,sebituane in this choice spot1 captured his cattle and women4 ,rallying his men1 he followed and recaptured the whole4 ,a fresh attack was also repulsed1 and ,sebituane thought of going farther down the ,zambesi1 to the country of the white men4 ,he had an idea1 whence imbibed ,i never could learn1 that if he had a cannon he might live in peace4 ,he had led a life of war1 yet no one apparently desired peace more than he did4 ,a prophet induced him to turn his face again to the westward4 ,this man1 by name ,tlapane1 was called a senoga--one who holds intercourse with the gods4 ,he probably had a touch of insanity1 for he was in the habit of retiring no one knew whither1 but perhaps into some cave1 to remain in a hypnotic or mesmeric state until the moon was full4 ,then1 returning to the tribe quite emaciated1 he excited himself1 as others do who pretend to the prophetic ,,afflatus1 until he was in a state of ecstasy4 ,these pretended prophets commence their operations by violent action of the voluntary muscles4 ,stamping1 leaping1 and shouting in a peculiarly violent manner1 or beating the ground with a club1 they induce a kind of fit1 and while in it pretend that their utterances are unknown to themselves4 ,tlapane1 pointing eastward1 said1 ,there1 ,sebituane1 ,i behold a fire3 shun it2 it is a fire which may scorch thee4 ,the gods say1 go not thither4 ,then1 turning to the west1 he said1 ,i see a city and a nation of black men--men of the water2 their cattle are red2 thine own tribe1 ,sebituane1 is perishing1 and will be all consumed2 thou wilt govern black men1 and1 when thy warriors have captured red cattle1 let not the owners be killed2 they are thy future tribe--they are thy city2 let them be spared to cause thee to build4 ,and thou1 ,ramosinii1 thy village will perish utterly4 ,if ,mokari removes from that village he will perish first1 and thou1 ,ramosinii1 wilt be the last to die4 ,concerning himself he added1 ,the gods have caused other men to drink water1 but to me they have given bitter water of the chukuru 7rhinoceros74 ,they call me away myself4 ,i can not stay much longer4 ,this vaticination1 which loses much in the translation1 ,i have given rather fully1 as it shows an observant mind4 ,the policy recommended was wise1 and the deaths of the senoga and of the two men he had named1 added to the destruction of their village1 having all happened soon after1 it is not wonderful that ,sebituane followed implicitly the warning voice4 ,the fire pointed to was evidently the ,portuguese fire-arms1 of which he must have heard4 ,the black men referred to were the ,barotse1 or1 as they term themselves1 ,baloiana2 and ,sebituane spared their chiefs1 even though they attacked him first4 ,he had ascended the ,barotse valley1 but was pursued by the ,matebele1 as ,mosilikatse never could forgive his former defeats4 ,they came up the river in a very large body4 ,sebituane placed some goats on one of the large islands of the ,zambesi as a bait to the warriors1 and some men in canoes to co-operate in the manoeuvre4 ,when they were all ferried over to the island1 the canoes were removed1 and the ,matebele found themselves completely in a trap1 being perfectly unable to swim4 ,they subsisted for some time on the roots of grass after the goats were eaten1 but gradually became so emaciated that1 when the ,makololo landed1 they had only to perform the part of executioners on the adults1 and to adopt the rest into their own tribe4 ,afterward ,mosilikatse was goaded on by his warriors to revenge this loss2 so he sent an immense army1 carrying canoes with them1 in order that no such mishap might occur again4 ,sebituane had by this time incorporated the ,barotse1 and taught his young men to manage canoes2 so he went from island to island1 and watched the ,matebele on the main land so closely that they could not use their canoes to cross the river any where without parting their forces4 ,at last all the ,makololo and their cattle were collected on the island of ,loyelo1 and lay all around1 keeping watch night and day over the enemy4 ,after some time spent in this way1 ,sebituane went in a canoe toward them1 and1 addressing them by an interpreter1 asked why they wished to kill him2 he had never attacked them1 never harmed their chief3 ,au6 he continued1 the guilt is on your side4 ,the ,matebele made no reply2 but the ,makololo next day saw the canoes they had carried so far lying smashed1 and the owners gone4 ,they returned toward their own country1 and fever1 famine1 and the ,batoka completed their destruction2 only five men returned to ,mosilikatse4 ,sebituane had now not only conquered all the black tribes over an immense tract of country1 but had made himself dreaded even by the terrible ,mosilikatse4 ,he never could trust this ferocious chief1 however2 and1 as the ,batoka on the islands had been guilty of ferrying his enemies across the ,zambesi1 he made a rapid descent upon them1 and swept them all out of their island fastnesses4 ,he thus unwittingly performed a good service to the country by completely breaking down the old system which prevented trade from penetrating into the great central valley4 ,of the chiefs who escaped1 he said1 ,they love ,mosilikatse1 let them live with him3 the ,zambesi is my line of defense2 and men were placed all along it as sentinels4 ,when he heard of our wish to visit him1 he did all he could to assist our approach4 ,sechele1 ,sekomi1 and ,lechulatebe owed their lives to his clemency2 and the latter might have paid dearly for his obstructiveness4 ,sebituane knew every thing that happened in the country1 for he had the art of gaining the affections both of his own people and of strangers4 ,when a party of poor men came to his town to sell their hoes or skins1 no matter how ungainly they might be1 he soon knew them all4 ,a company of these indigent strangers1 sitting far apart from the ,makololo gentlemen around the chief1 would be surprised to see him come alone to them1 and1 sitting down1 inquire if they were hungry4 ,he would order an attendant to bring meal1 milk1 and honey1 and1 mixing them in their sight1 in order to remove any suspicion from their minds1 make them feast1 perhaps for the first time in their lives1 on a lordly dish4 ,delighted beyond measure with his affability and liberality1 they felt their hearts warm toward him1 and gave him all the information in their power2 and as he never allowed a party of strangers to go away without giving every one of them1 servants and all1 a present1 his praises were sounded far and wide4 ,he has a heart6 he is wise6 were the usual expressions we heard before we saw him4 ,he was much pleased with the proof of confidence we had shown in bringing our children1 and promised to take us to see his country1 so that we might choose a part in which to locate ourselves4 ,our plan was1 that ,i should remain in the pursuit of my objects as a missionary1 while ,mr4 ,oswell explored the ,zambesi to the east4 ,poor ,sebituane1 however1 just after realizing what he had so long ardently desired1 fell sick of inflammation of the lungs1 which originated in and extended from an old wound got at ,melita4 ,i saw his danger1 but1 being a stranger1 ,i feared to treat him medically1 lest1 in the event of his death1 ,i should be blamed by his people4 ,i mentioned this to one of his doctors1 who said1 ,your fear is prudent and wise2 this people would blame you4 ,he had been cured of this complaint1 during the year before1 by the ,barotse making a large number of free incisions in the chest4 ,the ,makololo doctors1 on the other hand1 now scarcely cut the skin4 ,on the ,sunday afternoon in which he died1 when our usual religious service was over1 ,i visited him with my little boy ,robert4 ,come near1 said ,sebituane1 and see if ,i am any longer a man4 ,i am done4 ,he was thus sensible of the dangerous nature of his disease1 so ,i ventured to assent1 and added a single sentence regarding hope after death4 ,why do you speak of death8 said one of a relay of fresh doctors2 ,sebituane will never die4 ,if ,i had persisted1 the impression would have been produced that by speaking about it ,i wished him to die4 ,after sitting with him some time1 and commending him to the mercy of ,god1 ,i rose to depart1 when the dying chieftain1 raising himself up a little from his prone position1 called a servant1 and said1 ,take ,robert to ,maunku 7one of his wives71 and tell her to give him some milk4 ,these were the last words of ,sebituane4 ,we were not informed of his death until the next day4 ,the burial of a ,bechuana chief takes place in his cattle-pen1 and all the cattle are driven for an hour or two around and over the grave1 so that it may be quite obliterated4 ,we went and spoke to the people1 advising them to keep together and support the heir4 ,they took this kindly2 and in turn told us not to be alarmed1 for they would not think of ascribing the death of their chief to us2 that ,sebituane had just gone the way of his fathers2 and though the father had gone1 he had left children1 and they hoped that we would be as friendly to his children as we intended to have been to himself4 ,he was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief ,i ever met4 ,i never felt so much grieved by the loss of a black man before2 and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the world of which he had just heard before he was called away1 and to realize somewhat of the feelings of those who pray for the dead4 ,the deep1 dark question of what is to become of such as he1 must1 however1 be left where we find it1 believing that1 assuredly1 the ,judge of all the earth will do right4 ,at ,sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved1 as her father intended1 on a daughter named ,ma-mochisane4 ,he had promised to show us his country and to select a suitable locality for our residence4 ,we had now to look to the daughter1 who was living twelve days to the north1 at ,naliele4 ,we were obliged1 therefore1 to remain until a message came from her2 and when it did1 she gave us perfect liberty to visit any part of the country we chose4 ,mr4 ,oswell and ,i then proceeded one hundred and thirty miles to the northeast1 to ,sesheke2 and in the end of ,june1 #ahea1 we were rewarded by the discovery of the ,zambesi1 in the centre of the continent4 ,this was a most important point1 for that river was not previously known to exist there at all4 ,the ,portuguese maps all represent it as rising far to the east of where we now were2 and if ever any thing like a chain of trading stations had existed across the country between the latitudes #ab ,deg4 and #ah ,deg4 south1 this magnificent portion of the river must have been known before4 ,we saw it at the end of the dry season1 at the time when the river is about at its lowest1 and yet there was a breadth of from three hundred to six hundred yards of deep flowing water4 ,mr4 ,oswell said he had never seen such a fine river1 even in ,india4 ,at the period of its annual inundation it rises fully twenty feet in perpendicular height1 and floods fifteen or twenty miles of lands adjacent to its banks4 ,the country over which we had traveled from the ,chobe was perfectly flat1 except where there were large ant-hills1 or the remains of former ones1 which had left mounds a few feet high4 ,these are generally covered with wild date-trees and palmyras1 and in some parts there are forests of mimosae and mopane4 ,occasionally the country between the ,chobe and ,zambesi is flooded1 and there are large patches of swamps lying near the ,chobe or on its banks4 ,the ,makololo were living among these swamps for the sake of the protection the deep reedy rivers afforded them against their enemies4 ,now1 in reference to a suitable locality for a settlement for myself1 ,i could not conscientiously ask them to abandon their defenses for my convenience alone4 ,the healthy districts were defenseless1 and the safe localities were so deleterious to human life1 that the original ,basutos had nearly all been cut off by the fever2 ,i therefore feared to subject my family to the scourge4 ,as we were the very first white men the inhabitants had ever seen1 we were visited by prodigious numbers4 ,among the first who came to see us was a gentleman who appeared in a gaudy dressing-gown of printed calico4 ,many of the ,makololo1 besides1 had garments of blue1 green1 and red baize1 and also of printed cottons2 on inquiry1 we learned that these had been purchased1 in exchange for boys1 from a tribe called ,mambari1 which is situated near ,bihe4 ,this tribe began the slave-trade with ,sebituane only in #ahej1 and but for the unwillingness of ,lechulatebe to allow us to pass1 we should have been with ,sebituane in time to have prevented it from commencing at all4 ,the ,mambari visited in ancient times the chief of the ,barotse1 whom ,sebituane conquered1 and he refused to allow any one to sell a child4 ,they never came back again till #ahej2 and as they had a number of old ,portuguese guns marked ,legitimo de ,braga1 which ,sebituane thought would be excellent in any future invasion of ,matebele1 he offered to purchase them with cattle or ivory1 but the ,mambari refused every thing except boys about fourteen years of age4 ,the ,makololo declare they never heard of people being bought and sold till then1 and disliked it1 but the desire to possess the guns prevailed1 and eight old guns were exchanged for as many boys2 these were not their own children1 but captives of the black races they had conquered4 ,i have never known in ,africa an instance of a parent selling his own offspring4 ,the ,makololo were afterward incited to make a foray against some tribes to the eastward2 the ,mambari bargaining to use their guns in the attack for the captives they might take1 and the ,makololo were to have all the cattle4 ,they went off with at least two hundred slaves that year4 ,during this foray the ,makololo met some ,arabs from ,zanzibar1 who presented them with three ,english muskets1 and in return received about thirty of their captives4 ,in talking with my companions over these matters1 the idea was suggested that1 if the slave-market were supplied with articles of ,european manufacture by legitimate commerce1 the trade in slaves would become impossible4 ,it seemed more feasible to give the goods1 for which the people now part with their servants1 in exchange for ivory and other products of the country1 and thus prevent the trade at the beginning1 than to try to put a stop to it at any of the subsequent steps4 ,this could only be effected by establishing a highway from the coast into the centre of the country4 ,as there was no hope of the ,boers allowing the peaceable instruction of the natives at ,kolobeng1 ,i at once resolved to save my family from exposure to this unhealthy region by sending them to ,england1 and to return alone1 with a view to exploring the country in search of a healthy district that might prove a centre of civilization1 and open up the interior by a path to either the east or west coast4 ,this resolution led me down to the ,cape in ,april1 #aheb1 being the first time during eleven years that ,i had visited the scenes of civilization4 ,our route to ,cape ,town led us to pass through the centre of the colony during the twentieth month of a ,caffre war2 and if those who periodically pay enormous sums for these inglorious affairs wish to know how our little unprotected party could quietly travel through the heart of the colony to the capital with as little sense or sign of danger as if we had been in ,england1 they must engage a ',times' ,special ,correspondent for the next outbreak to explain where the money goes1 and who have been benefited by the blood and treasure expended4 ,having placed my family on board a homeward-bound ship1 and promised to rejoin them in two years1 we parted1 for1 as it subsequently proved1 nearly five years4 ,the ,directors of the ,london ,missionary ,society signified their cordial approval of my project by leaving the matter entirely to my own discretion2 and ,i have much pleasure in acknowledging my obligations to the gentlemen composing that body for always acting in an enlightened spirit1 and with as much liberality as their constitution would allow4 ,i have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness to the ,astronomer ,royal at the ,cape1 ,thomas ,maclear1 ,esq41 for enabling me to recall the little astronomical knowledge which constant manual labor and the engrossing nature of missionary duties had effaced from my memory1 and in adding much that ,i did not know before4 ,the promise he made on parting1 that he would examine and correct all my observations1 had more effect in making me persevere in overcoming the difficulties of an unassisted solitary observer than any thing else2 so whatever credit may be attached to the geographical positions laid down in my route must be attributed to the voluntary aid of the excellent and laborious astronomer of the ,cape observatory4 ,having given the reader as rapid a sketch as possible of events which attracted notice between #ahdj and #aheb1 ,i now proceed to narrate the incidents of the last and longest journey of all1 performed in #aheb-f4 ,chapter #e4 ,start in ,june1 #aheb1 on the last and longest ,journey from ,cape ,town-- ,companions--,wagon-traveling--,physical ,divisions of ,africa--,the ,eastern1 ,central1 and ,western ,zones--,the ,kalahari ,desert--,its ,vegetation--,increasing ,value of the ,interior for ,colonization-- ,our ,route--,dutch ,boers--,their ,habits--,sterile ,appearance of the ,district--,failure of ,grass--,succeeded by other ,plants-- ,vines--,animals--,the ,boers as ,farmers--,migration of ,springbucks-- ,wariness of ,animals--,the ,orange ,river--,territory of the ,griquas and ,bechuanas--,the ,griquas--,the ,chief ,waterboer--,his wise and energetic ,government--,his ,fidelity--,ill-considered ,measures of the ,colonial ,government in regard to ,supplies of ,gunpowder--,success of the ,missionaries among the ,griquas and ,bechuanas--,manifest ,improvement of the native ,character--,dress of the ,natives--,a full-dress ,costume--,a ,native's ,description of the ,natives--,articles of ,commerce in the ,country of the ,bechuanas--,their ,unwillingness to learn1 and ,readiness to criticise4 ,having sent my family home to ,england1 ,i started in the beginning of ,june1 #aheb1 on my last journey from ,cape ,town4 ,this journey extended from the southern extremity of the continent to ,st4 ,paul de ,loando1 the capital of ,angola1 on the west coast1 and thence across ,south ,central ,africa in an oblique direction to ,kilimane 7,quilimane7 in ,eastern ,africa4 ,i proceeded in the usual conveyance of the country1 the heavy1 lumbering ,cape wagon drawn by ten oxen1 and was accompanied by two ,christian ,bechuanas from ,kuruman--than whom ,i never saw better servants any where--by two ,bakwain men1 and two young girls1 who1 having come as nurses with our children to the ,cape1 were returning to their home at ,kolobeng4 ,wagon-traveling in ,africa has been so often described that ,i need say no more than that it is a prolonged system of picnicking1 excellent for the health1 and agreeable to those who are not over-fastidious about trifles1 and who delight in being in the open air4 ,our route to the north lay near the centre of the cone-shaped mass of land which constitutes the promontory of the ,cape4 ,if we suppose this cone to be divided into three zones or longitudinal bands1 we find each presenting distinct peculiarities of climate1 physical appearance and population4 ,these are more marked beyond than within the colony4 ,at some points one district seems to be continued in and to merge into the other1 but the general dissimilarity warrants the division1 as an aid to memory4 ,the eastern zone is often furnished with mountains1 well wooded with evergreen succulent trees1 on which neither fire nor droughts can have the smallest effect 7',strelitzia'1 ',zamia horrida'1 ',portulacaria afra'1 ',schotia speciosa'1 ',euphorbias'1 and ',aloes arborescens'72 and its seaboard gorges are clad with gigantic timber4 ,it is also comparatively well watered with streams and flowing rivers4 ,the annual supply of rain is considerable1 and the inhabitants 7,caffres or ,zulus7 are tall1 muscular1 and well made2 they are shrewd1 energetic1 and brave2 altogether they merit the character given them by military authorities1 of being magnificent savages4 ,their splendid physical development and form of skull show that1 but for the black skin and woolly hair1 they would take rank among the foremost ,europeans4 ,the next division1 that which embraces the centre of the continent1 can scarcely be called hilly1 for what hills there are are very low4 ,it consists for the most part of extensive1 slightly undulating plains4 ,there are no lofty mountains1 but few springs1 and still fewer flowing streams4 ,rain is far from abundant1 and droughts may be expected every few years4 ,without artificial irrigation no ,european grain can be raised1 and the inhabitants 7,bechuanas71 though evidently of the same stock1 originally1 with those already mentioned1 and closely resembling them in being an agricultural as well as a pastoral people1 are a comparatively timid race1 and inferior to the ,caffres in physical development4 ,the western division is still more level than the middle one1 being rugged only near the coast4 ,it includes the great plain called the ,kalahari ,desert1 which is remarkable for little water and very considerable vegetation4 ,the reason1 probably1 why so little rain falls on this extensive plain is that the prevailing winds of most of the interior country are easterly1 with a little southing4 ,the moisture taken up by the atmosphere from the ,indian ,ocean is deposited on the eastern hilly slope2 and when the moving mass of air reaches its greatest elevation1 it is then on the verge of the great valley1 or1 as in the case of the ,kalahari1 the great heated inland plains2 there1 meeting with the rarefied air of that hot1 dry surface1 the ascending heat gives it greater capacity for retaining all its remaining humidity1 and few showers can be given to the middle and western lands in consequence of the increased hygrometric power4 ,this is the same phenomenon1 on a gigantic scale1 as that which takes place on ,table ,mountain1 at the ,cape1 in what is called the spreading of the table-cloth4 ,the southeast wind causes a mass of air1 equal to the diameter of the mountain1 suddenly to ascend at least three thousand feet2 the dilatation produced by altitude1 with its attendant cold1 causes the immediate formation of a cloud on the summit2 the water in the atmosphere becomes visible2 successive masses of gliding-up and passing-over air cause the continual formation of clouds1 but the top of the vapory mass1 or table-cloth1 is level1 and seemingly motionless2 on the lee side1 however1 the thick volumes of vapor curl over and descend1 but when they reach the point below1 where greater density and higher temperature impart enlarged capacity for carrying water1 they entirely disappear4 ,now if1 instead of a hollow on the lee side of ,table ,mountain1 we had an elevated heated plain1 the clouds which curl over that side1 and disappear as they do at present when a southeaster is blowing1 might deposit some moisture on the windward ascent and top2 but the heat would then impart the increased capacity the air now receives at the lower level in its descent to leeward1 and1 instead of an extended country with a flora of the ',disa grandiflora'1 'gladiolus'1 'rushes'1 and 'lichens'1 which now appear on ,table ,mountain1 we should have only the hardy vegetation of the ,kalahari4 ,why there should be so much vegetation on the ,kalahari may be explained by the geological formation of the country4 ,there is a rim or fringe of ancient rocks round a great central valley1 which1 dipping inward1 form a basin1 the bottom of which is composed of the oldest silurian rocks4 ,this basin has been burst through and filled up in many parts by eruptive traps and breccias1 which often bear in their substances angular fragments of the more ancient rocks1 as shown in the fossils they contain4 ,now1 though large areas have been so dislocated that but little trace of the original valley formation appears1 it is highly probable that the basin shape prevails over large tracts of the country2 and as the strata on the slopes1 where most of the rain falls1 dip in toward the centre1 they probably guide water beneath the plains but ill supplied with moisture from the clouds4 ,the phenomenon of stagnant fountains becoming by a new and deeper outlet never-failing streams may be confirmatory of the view that water is conveyed from the sides of the country into the bottom of the central valley2 and it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that the wonderful river system in the north1 which1 if native information be correct1 causes a considerable increase of water in the springs called ,matlomagan-yana 7the ,links71 extends its fertilizing influence beneath the plains of the ,kalahari4 ,the peculiar formation of the country may explain why there is such a difference in the vegetation between the #bjth and #cjth parallels of latitude in ,south ,africa and the same latitudes in ,central ,australia4 ,the want of vegetation is as true of some parts too in the centre of ,south ,america as of ,australia2 and the cause of the difference holds out a probability for the success of artesian wells in extensive tracts of ,africa now unpeopled solely on account of the want of surface water4 ,we may be allowed to speculate a little at least on the fact of much greater vegetation1 which1 from whatever source it comes1 presents for ,south ,africa prospects of future greatness which we can not hope for in ,central ,australia4 ,as the interior districts of the ,cape ,colony are daily becoming of higher value1 offering to honest industry a fair remuneration for capital1 and having a climate unequaled in salubrity for consumptive patients1 ,i should unhesitatingly recommend any farmer at all afraid of that complaint in his family to try this colony4 ,with the means of education already possessed1 and the onward and upward movement of the ,cape population1 he need entertain no apprehensions of his family sinking into barbarism4 ,the route we at this time followed ran along the middle1 or skirted the western zone before alluded to1 until we reached the latitude of ,lake ,ngami1 where a totally different country begins4 ,while in the colony1 we passed through districts inhabited by the descendants of ,dutch and ,french refugees who had fled from religious persecution4 ,those living near the capital differ but little from the middle classes in ,english counties1 and are distinguished by public spirit and general intelligence2 while those situated far from the centres of civilization are less informed1 but are a body of frugal1 industrious1 and hospitable peasantry4 ,a most efficient system of public instruction was established in the time of ,governor ,sir ,george ,napier1 on a plan drawn up in a great measure by that accomplished philosopher1 ,sir ,john ,herschel4 ,the system had to contend with less sectarian rancor than elsewhere2 indeed1 until quite recently1 that spirit1 except in a mild form1 was unknown4 ,the population here described ought not to be confounded with some ,boers who fled from ,british rule on account of the emancipation of their ,hottentot slaves1 and perhaps never would have been so had not every now and then some ,rip ,van ,winkle started forth at the ,cape to justify in the public prints the deeds of blood and slave-hunting in the far interior4 ,it is therefore not to be wondered at if the whole race is confounded and held in low estimation by those who do not know the real composition of the ,cape community4 ,population among the ,boers increases rapidly2 they marry soon1 are seldom sterile1 and continue to have children late4 ,i once met a worthy matron whose husband thought it right to imitate the conduct of ,abraham while ,sarah was barren2 she evidently agreed in the propriety of the measure1 for she was pleased to hear the children by a mother of what has been thought an inferior race address her as their mother4 ,orphans are never allowed to remain long destitute2 and instances are frequent in which a tender-hearted farmer has adopted a fatherless child1 and when it came of age portioned it as his own4 ,two centuries of the ,south ,african climate have not had much effect upon the physical condition of the ,boers4 ,they are a shade darker1 or rather ruddier1 than ,europeans1 and are never cadaverous-looking1 as descendants of ,europeans are said to be elsewhere4 ,there is a tendency to the development of steatopyga1 so characteristic of ,arabs and other ,african tribes2 and it is probable that the interior ,boers in another century will become in color what the learned imagine our progenitors1 ,adam and ,eve1 to have been4 ,the parts of the colony through which we passed were of sterile aspect2 and1 as the present winter had been preceded by a severe drought1 many farmers had lost two thirds of their stock4 ,the landscape was uninviting2 the hills1 destitute of trees1 were of a dark brown color1 and the scanty vegetation on the plains made me feel that they deserved the name of ,desert more than the ,kalahari4 ,when first taken possession of1 these parts are said to have been covered with a coating of grass1 but that has disappeared with the antelopes which fed upon it1 and a crop of mesembryanthemums and crassulas occupies its place4 ,it is curious to observe how1 in nature1 organizations the most dissimilar are mutually dependent on each other for their perpetuation4 ,here the original grasses were dependent for dissemination on the grass-feeding animals1 which scattered the seeds4 ,when1 by the death of the antelopes1 no fresh sowing was made1 the ,african droughts proved too much for this form of vegetation4 ,but even this contingency was foreseen by the ,omniscient ,one2 for1 as we may now observe in the ,kalahari ,desert1 another family of plants1 the mesembryanthemums1 stood ready to neutralize the aridity which must otherwise have followed4 ,this family of plants possesses seed-vessels which remain firmly shut on their contents while the soil is hot and dry1 and thus preserve the vegetative power intact during the highest heat of the torrid sun2 but when rain falls1 the seed-vessel opens and sheds its contents just when there is the greatest probability of their vegetating4 ,in other plants heat and drought cause the seed-vessels to burst and shed their charge4 ,one of this family is edible 7',mesembryanthemum edule'72 another possesses a tuberous root1 which may be eaten raw2 and all are furnished with thick1 fleshy leaves1 having pores capable of imbibing and retaining moisture from a very dry atmosphere and soil1 so that1 if a leaf is broken during a period of the greatest drought1 it shows abundant circulating sap4 ,the plants of this family are found much farther north1 but the great abundance of the grasses prevents them from making any show4 ,there1 however1 they stand ready to fill up any gap which may occur in the present prevailing vegetation2 and should the grasses disappear1 animal life would not necessarily be destroyed1 because a reserve supply1 equivalent to a fresh act of creative power1 has been provided4 ,one of this family1 ',m4 turbiniforme'1 is so colored as to blend in well with the hue of the soil and stones around it2 and a 'gryllus' of the same color feeds on it4 ,in the case of the insect1 the peculiar color is given as compensation for the deficiency of the powers of motion to enable it to elude the notice of birds4 ,the continuation of the species is here the end in view4 ,in the case of the plant the same device is adopted for a sort of double end1 viz41 perpetuation of the plant by hiding it from animals1 with the view that ultimately its extensive appearance will sustain that race4 ,as this new vegetation is better adapted for sheep and goats in a dry country than grass1 the ,boers supplant the latter by imitating the process by which graminivorous antelopes have so abundantly disseminated the seed of grasses4 ,a few wagon-loads of mesembryanthemum plants1 in seed1 are brought to a farm covered with a scanty crop of coarse grass1 and placed on a spot to which the sheep have access in the evenings4 ,as they eat a little every night1 the seeds are dropped over the grazing grounds in this simple way1 with a regularity which could not be matched except at the cost of an immense amount of labor4 ,the place becomes in the course of a few years a sheep-farm1 as these animals thrive on such herbage4 ,as already mentioned1 some plants of this family are furnished with an additional contrivance for withstanding droughts1 viz41 oblong tubers1 which1 buried deep enough beneath the soil for complete protection from the scorching sun1 serve as reservoirs of sap and nutriment during those rainless periods which recur perpetually in even the most favored spots of ,africa4 ,i have adverted to this peculiarity as often seen in the vegetation of the ,desert2 and1 though rather out of place1 it may be well--while noticing a clever imitation of one process in nature by the ,cape farmers--to suggest another for their consideration4 ,the country beyond south lat4 #ah ,deg4 abounds in three varieties of grape-bearing vines1 and one of these is furnished with oblong tubers every three or four inches along the horizontal root4 ,they resemble closely those of the asparagus4 ,this increase of power to withstand the effects of climate might prove of value in the more arid parts of the ,cape colony1 grapes being well known to be an excellent restorative in the debility produced by heat3 by ingrafting1 or by some of those curious manipulations which we read of in books on gardening1 a variety might be secured better adapted to the country than the foreign vines at present cultivated4 ,the ,americans find that some of their native vines yield wines superior to those made from the very best imported vines from ,france and ,portugal4 ,what a boon a vine of the sort contemplated would have been to a ,rhenish missionary ,i met at a part in the west of the colony called ,ebenezer1 whose children had never seen flowers1 though old enough to talk about them6 ,the slow pace at which we wound our way through the colony made almost any subject interesting4 ,the attention is attracted to the names of different places1 because they indicate the former existence of buffaloes1 elands1 and elephants1 which are now to be found only hundreds of miles beyond4 ,a few blesbucks 7',antilope pygarga'71 gnus1 bluebucks 7',a4 cerulea'71 steinbucks1 and the ostrich 7',struthio camelus'71 continue1 like the ,bushmen1 to maintain a precarious existence when all the rest are gone4 ,the elephant1 the most sagacious1 flees the sound of fire-arms first2 the gnu and ostrich1 the most wary and the most stupid1 last4 ,the first emigrants found the ,hottentots in possession of prodigious herds of fine cattle1 but no horses1 asses1 or camels4 ,the original cattle1 which may still be seen in some parts of the frontier1 must have been brought south from the north-northeast1 for from this point the natives universally ascribe their original migration4 ,they brought cattle1 sheep1 goats1 and dogs2 why not the horse1 the delight of savage hordes8 ,horses thrive well in the ,cape ,colony when imported4 ,naturalists point out certain mountain ranges as limiting the habitat of certain classes of animals2 but there is no ,cordillera in ,africa to answer that purpose1 there being no visible barrier between the northeastern ,arabs and the ,hottentot tribes to prevent the different hordes1 as they felt their way southward1 from indulging their taste for the possession of this noble animal4 ,i am here led to notice an invisible barrier1 more insurmountable than mountain ranges1 but which is not opposed to the southern progress of cattle1 goats1 and sheep4 ,the tsetse would prove a barrier only until its well-defined habitat was known1 but the disease passing under the term of horse-sickness 7peripneumonia7 exists in such virulence over nearly seven degrees of latitude that no precaution would be sufficient to save these animals4 ,the horse is so liable to this disease1 that only by great care in stabling can he be kept any where between #bj ,deg4 and #bg ,deg4 ,s4 during the time between ,december and ,april4 ,the winter1 beginning in the latter month1 is the only period in which ,englishmen can hunt on horseback1 and they are in danger of losing all their studs some months before ,december4 ,to this disease the horse is especially exposed1 and it is almost always fatal4 ,one attack1 however1 seems to secure immunity from a second4 ,cattle1 too1 are subject to it1 but only at intervals of a few1 sometimes many years2 but it never makes a clean sweep of the whole cattle of a village1 as it would do of a troop of fifty horses4 ,this barrier1 then1 seems to explain the absence of the horse among the ,hottentots1 though it is not opposed to the southern migration of cattle1 sheep1 and goats4 ,when the flesh of animals that have died of this disease is eaten1 it causes a malignant carbuncle1 which1 when it appears over any important organ1 proves rapidly fatal4 ,it is more especially dangerous over the pit of the stomach4 ,the effects of the poison have been experienced by missionaries who had eaten properly cooked food1 the flesh of sheep really but not visibly affected by the disease4 ,the virus in the flesh of the animal is destroyed neither by boiling nor roasting4 ,this fact1 of which we have had innumerable examples1 shows the superiority of experiments on a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists and chemists in the laboratory1 for a well known physician of ,paris1 after careful investigation1 considered that the virus in such cases was completely neutralized by boiling4 ,this disease attacks wild animals too4 ,during our residence at ,chonuan great numbers of tolos1 or koodoos1 were attracted to the gardens of the ,bakwains1 abandoned at the usual period of harvest because there was no prospect of the corn 7',holcus sorghum'7 bearing that year4 ,the koodoo is remarkably fond of the green stalks of this kind of millet4 ,free feeding produced that state of fatness favorable for the development of this disease1 and no fewer than twenty-five died on the hill opposite our house4 ,great numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause1 but the mortality produced no sensible diminution in the numbers of the game1 any more than the deaths of many of the ,bakwains who persisted1 in spite of every remonstrance1 in eating the dead meat1 caused any sensible decrease in the strength of the tribe4 ,the farms of the ,boers consist generally of a small patch of cultivated land in the midst of some miles of pasturage4 ,they are thus less an agricultural than a pastoral people4 ,each farm must have its fountain2 and where no such supply of water exists1 the government lands are unsalable4 ,an acre in ,england is thus generally more valuable than a square mile in ,africa4 ,but the country is prosperous1 and capable of great improvement4 ,the industry of the ,boers augurs well for the future formation of dams and tanks1 and for the greater fruitfulness that would certainly follow4 ,as cattle and sheep farmers the colonists are very successful4 ,larger and larger quantities of wool are produced annually1 and the value of colonial farms increases year by year4 ,but the system requires that with the increase of the population there should be an extension of territory4 ,wide as the country is1 and thinly inhabited1 the farmers feel it to be too limited1 and they are gradually spreading to the north4 ,this movement proves prejudicial to the country behind1 for labor1 which would be directed to the improvement of the colony1 is withdrawn and expended in a mode of life little adapted to the exercise of industrial habits4 ,that1 however1 does not much concern the rest of mankind4 ,nor does it seem much of an evil for men who cultivate the soil to claim a right to appropriate lands for tillage which other men only hunt over1 provided some compensation for the loss of sustenance be awarded4 ,the original idea of a title seems to have been that subduing or cultivating gave that right4 ,but this rather ,chartist principle must be received with limitations1 for its recognition in ,england would lead to the seizure of all our broad ancestral acres by those who are willing to cultivate them4 ,and1 in the case under consideration1 the encroachments lead at once to less land being put under the plow than is subjected to the native hoe1 for it is a fact that the ,basutos and ,zulus1 or ,caffres of ,natal1 cultivate largely1 and undersell our farmers wherever they have a fair field and no favor4 ,before we came to the ,orange ,river we saw the last portion of a migration of springbucks 7',gazella euchore'1 or tsepe74 ,they come from the great ,kalahari ,desert1 and1 when first seen after crossing the colonial boundary1 are said often to exceed forty thousand in number4 ,i can not give an estimate of their numbers1 for they appear spread over a vast expanse of country1 and make a quivering motion as they feed1 and move1 and toss their graceful horns4 ,they feed chiefly on grass2 and as they come from the north about the time when the grass most abounds1 it can not be want of food that prompts the movement4 ,nor is it want of water1 for this antelope is one of the most abstemious in that respect4 ,their nature prompts them to seek as their favorite haunts level plains with short grass1 where they may be able to watch the approach of an enemy4 ,the ,bakalahari take advantage of this feeling1 and burn off large patches of grass1 not only to attract the game by the new crop when it comes up1 but also to form bare spots for the springbuck to range over4 ,it is not the springbuck alone that manifests this feeling4 ,when oxen are taken into a country of high grass1 they are much more ready to be startled2 their sense of danger is increased by the increased power of concealment afforded to an enemy by such cover1 and they will often start off in terror at the ill-defined outlines of each other4 ,the springbuck1 possessing this feeling in an intense degree1 and being eminently gregarious1 becomes uneasy as the grass of the ,kalahari becomes tall4 ,the vegetation being more sparse in the more arid south1 naturally induces the different herds to turn in that direction4 ,as they advance and increase in numbers1 the pasturage becomes more scarce2 it is still more so the further they go1 until they are at last obliged1 in order to obtain the means of subsistence1 to cross the ,orange ,river1 and become the pest of the sheep-farmer in a country which contains scarcely any of their favorite grassy food4 ,if they light on a field of wheat in their way1 an army of locusts could not make a cleaner sweep of the whole than they will do4 ,it is questionable whether they ever return1 as they have never been seen as a returning body4 ,many perish from want of food1 the country to which they have migrated being unable to support them2 the rest become scattered over the colony2 and in such a wide country there is no lack of room for all4 ,it is probable that1 notwithstanding the continued destruction by fire-arms1 they will continue long to hold their place4 ,on crossing the ,orange ,river we come into independent territory inhabited by ,griquas and ,bechuanas4 ,by ,griquas is meant any mixed race sprung from natives and ,europeans4 ,those in question were of ,dutch extraction1 through association with ,hottentot and ,bushwomen4 ,half-castes of the first generation consider themselves superior to those of the second1 and all possess in some degree the characteristics of both parents4 ,they were governed for many years by an elected chief1 named ,waterboer1 who1 by treaty1 received a small sum per annum from the colonial government for the support of schools in his country1 and proved a most efficient guard of our northwest boundary4 ,cattle-stealing was totally unknown during the whole period of this able chief's reign2 and he actually drove back1 single-handed1 a formidable force of marauding ,mantatees that threatened to invade the colony499 ,but for that brave ,christian man1 ,waterboer1 there is every human probability that the northwest would have given the colonists as much trouble as the eastern frontier2 for large numbers among the original ,griquas had as little scruple about robbing farmers of cattle as the ,caffres are reputed to have4 ,on the election of ,waterboer to the chieftainship1 he distinctly declared ,,that ,,no ,,marauding ,,should ,,be ,,allowed4 ,as the government of none of these tribes is despotic1 some of his principal men1 in spite of this declaration1 plundered some villages of ,corannas living to the south of the ,orange ,river4 ,he immediately seized six of the ringleaders1 and1 though the step put his own position in jeopardy1 he summoned his council1 tried1 condemned1 and publicly executed the whole six4 ,this produced an insurrection1 and the insurgents twice attacked his capital1 ,griqua ,town1 with the intention of deposing him2 but he bravely defeated both attempts1 and from that day forth1 during his long reign of thirty years1 not a single plundering expedition ever left his territory4 ,having witnessed the deleterious effects of the introduction of ardent spirits among his people1 he1 with characteristic energy1 decreed that any ,boer or ,griqua bringing brandy into the country should have his property in ardent spirits confiscated and poured out on the ground4 ,the ,griqua chiefs living farther east were unable to carry this law into effect as he did1 hence the greater facility with which ,boers in that direction got the ,griquas to part with their farms4 99 ,for an account of this1 see ,moffat's ,scenes and ,labors in ,south ,africa4 ,ten years after he was firmly established in power he entered into a treaty with the colonial government1 and during the twenty years which followed not a single charge was ever brought against either him or his people2 on the contrary1 his faithful adherence to the stipulated provisions elicited numerous expressions of approbation from successive governments4 ,a late governor1 however1 of whom it is impossible to speak without respect1 in a paroxysm of generalship which might have been good1 had it not been totally inappropriate to the case1 set about conciliating a band of rebellious ,british subjects 7,boers71 who murdered the ,honorable ,captain ,murray1 by proclaiming their independence while still in open rebellion1 and not only abrogated the treaty with the ,griquas1 but engaged to stop the long-accustomed supplies of gunpowder for the defense of the frontier1 and even to prevent them from purchasing it for their own defense by lawful trade4 ,if it had been necessary to prevent supplies of ammunition from finding their way into the country1 as it probably was1 one might imagine that the exception should not have been made in favor of either ,boers or ,caffres1 our openly-avowed enemies2 but1 nevertheless1 the exception was made1 and is still continued in favor of the ,boers1 while the ,bechuanas and ,griquas1 our constant friends1 are debarred from obtaining a single ounce for either defense or trade2 indeed1 such was the state of ignorance as to the relation of the border tribes with the ,english1 even at ,cape ,town1 that the magistrates1 though willing to aid my researches1 were sorely afraid to allow me to purchase more than ten pounds of gunpowder1 lest the ,bechuanas should take it from me by force4 ,as it turned out1 ,i actually left more than that quantity for upward of two years in an open box in my wagon at ,linyanti4 ,the lamented ,sir ,george ,cathcart1 apparently unconscious of what he was doing1 entered into a treaty with the ,transvaal ,boers1 in which articles were introduced for the free passage of ,english traders to the north1 and for the entire prohibition of slavery in the free state4 ,then passed the gunpowder ordinance1 by which the ,bechuanas1 whom alone the ,boers dare attempt to enslave1 were rendered quite defenseless4 ,the ,boers never attempt to fight with ,caffres1 nor to settle in ,caffreland4 ,we still continue to observe the treaty4 ,the ,boers never did1 and never intended to abide by its provisions2 for1 immediately on the proclamation of their independence1 a slave-hunt was undertaken against the ,bechuanas of ,sechele by four hundred ,boers1 under ,mr4 ,peit ,scholz1 and the plan was adopted which had been cherished in their hearts ever since the emancipation of the ,hottentots4 ,thus1 from unfortunate ignorance of the country he had to govern1 an able and sagacious governor adopted a policy proper and wise had it been in front of our enemies1 but altogether inappropriate for our friends against whom it has been applied4 ,such an error could not have been committed by a man of local knowledge and experience1 such as that noble of colonial birth1 ,sir ,andries ,stockenstrom2 and such instances of confounding friend and foe1 in the innocent belief of thereby promoting colonial interests1 will probably lead the ,cape community1 the chief part of which by no means feels its interest to lie in the degradation of the native tribes1 to assert the right of choosing their own governors4 ,this1 with colonial representation in the ,imperial ,parliament1 in addition to the local self-government already so liberally conceded1 would undoubtedly secure the perpetual union of the colony to the ,english crown4 ,many hundreds of both ,griquas and ,bechuanas have become ,christians and partially civilized through the teaching of ,english missionaries4 ,my first impressions of the progress made were that the accounts of the effects of the ,gospel among them had been too highly colored4 ,i expected a higher degree of ,christian simplicity and purity than exists either among them or among ourselves4 ,i was not anxious for a deeper insight in detecting shams than others1 but ,i expected character1 such as we imagine the primitive disciples had--and was disappointed499 ,when1 however1 ,i passed on to the true heathen in the countries beyond the sphere of missionary influence1 and could compare the people there with the ,christian natives1 ,i came to the conclusion that1 if the question were examined in the most rigidly severe or scientific way1 the change effected by the missionary movement would be considered unquestionably great4 99 ,the popular notion1 however1 of the primitive ,church is perhaps not very accurate4 ,those societies especially which consisted of converted ,gentiles--men who had been accustomed to the vices and immoralities of heathenism--were certainly any thing but pure4 ,in spite of their conversion1 some of them carried the stains and vestiges of their former state with them when they passed from the temple to the church4 ,if the instructed and civilized ,greek did not all at once rise out of his former self1 and understand and realize the high ideal of his new faith1 we should be careful1 in judging of the work of missionaries among savage tribes1 not to apply to their converts tests and standards of too great severity4 ,if the scoffing ,lucian's account of the impostor ,peregrinus may be believed1 we find a church probably planted by the apostles manifesting less intelligence even than modern missionary churches4 ,peregrinus1 a notoriously wicked man1 was elected to the chief place among them1 while ,romish priests1 backed by the power of ,france1 could not find a place at all in the mission churches of ,tahiti and ,madagascar4 ,we can not fairly compare these poor people with ourselves1 who have an atmosphere of ,christianity and enlightened public opinion1 the growth of centuries1 around us1 to influence our deportment2 but let any one from the natural and proper point of view behold the public morality of ,griqua ,town1 ,kuruman1 ,likatlong1 and other villages1 and remember what even ,london was a century ago1 and he must confess that the ,christian mode of treating aborigines is incomparably the best4 ,the ,griquas and ,bechuanas were in former times clad much like the ,caffres1 if such a word may be used where there is scarcely any clothing at all4 ,a bunch of leather strings about eighteen inches long hung from the lady's waist in front1 and a prepared skin of a sheep or antelope covered the shoulders1 leaving the breast and abdomen bare3 the men wore a patch of skin1 about the size of the crown of one's hat1 which barely served for the purposes of decency1 and a mantle exactly like that of the women4 ,to assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the influence of the sun by day and of the cold by night1 all smeared themselves with a mixture of fat and ochre2 the head was anointed with pounded blue mica schist mixed with fat2 and the fine particles of shining mica1 falling on the body and on strings of beads and brass rings1 were considered as highly ornamental1 and fit for the most fastidious dandy4 ,now these same people come to church in decent though poor clothing1 and behave with a decorum certainly superior to what seems to have been the case in the time of ,mr4 ,samuel ,pepys in ,london4 ,sunday is well observed1 and1 even in localities where no missionary lives1 religious meetings are regularly held1 and children and adults taught to read by the more advanced of their own fellow-countrymen2 and no one is allowed to make a profession of faith by baptism unless he knows how to read1 and understands the nature of the ,christian religion4 ,the ,bechuana ,mission has been so far successful that1 when coming from the interior1 we always felt1 on reaching ,kuruman1 that we had returned to civilized life4 ,but ,i would not give any one to understand by this that they are model ,christians--we can not claim to be model ,christians ourselves--or even in any degree superior to the members of our country churches4 ,they are more stingy and greedy than the poor at home2 but in many respects the two are exactly alike4 ,on asking an intelligent chief what he thought of them1 he replied1 ,you white men have no idea of how wicked we are2 we know each other better than you2 some feign belief to ingratiate themselves with the missionaries2 some profess ,christianity because they like the new system1 which gives so much more importance to the poor1 and desire that the old system may pass away2 and the rest--a pretty large number--profess because they are really true believers4 ,this testimony may be considered as very nearly correct4 ,there is not much prospect of this country ever producing much of the materials of commerce except wool4 ,at present the chief articles of trade are karosses or mantles--the skins of which they are composed come from the ,desert2 next to them1 ivory1 the quantity of which can not now be great1 inasmuch as the means of shooting elephants is sedulously debarred entrance into the country4 ,a few skins and horns1 and some cattle1 make up the remainder of the exports4 ,english goods1 sugar1 tea1 and coffee are the articles received in exchange4 ,all the natives of these parts soon become remarkably fond of coffee4 ,the acme of respectability among the ,bechuanas is the possession of cattle and a wagon4 ,it is remarkable that1 though these latter require frequent repairs1 none of the ,bechuanas have ever learned to mend them4 ,forges and tools have been at their service1 and teachers willing to aid them1 but1 beyond putting together a camp-stool1 no effort has ever been made to acquire a knowledge of the trades4 ,they observe most carefully a missionary at work until they understand whether a tire is well welded or not1 and then pronounce upon its merits with great emphasis1 but there their ambition rests satisfied4 ,it is the same peculiarity among ourselves which leads us in other matters1 such as book-making1 to attain the excellence of fault-finding without the wit to indite a page4 ,it was in vain ,i tried to indoctrinate the ,bechuanas with the idea that criticism did not imply any superiority over the workman1 or even equality with him4 ,chapter #f4 ,kuruman--,its fine ,fountain--,vegetation of the ,district--,remains of ancient ,forests--,vegetable ,poison--,the ,bible translated by ,mr4 ,moffat--,capabilities of the ,language--,christianity among the ,natives--,the ,missionaries should extend their ,labors more beyond the ,cape ,colony--,model ,christians--,disgraceful ,attack of the ,boers on the ,bakwains--,letter from ,sechele--,details of the ,attack--,numbers of ,school-children carried away into ,slavery--,destruction of ,house and ,property at ,kolobeng--,the ,boers vow ,vengeance against me--,consequent ,difficulty of getting ,servants to accompany me on my ,journey--,start in ,november1 #aheb--,meet ,sechele on his way to ,england to obtain ,redress from the ,queen--,he is unable to proceed beyond the ,cape--,meet ,mr4 ,macabe on his ,return from ,lake ,ngami--,the hot ,wind of the ,desert--,electric ,state of the ,atmosphere--,flock of ,swifts--,reach ,litubaruba--,the ,cave ,lepelole--,superstitions regarding it--,impoverished ,state of the ,bakwains--,retaliation on the ,boers--,slavery--,attachment of the ,bechuanas to ,children--,hydrophobia unknown--,diseases of the ,bakwains few in number--,yearly ,epidemics--,hasty ,burials--,ophthalmia--,native ,doctors--,knowledge of ,surgery at a very low ,ebb--,little ,attendance given to ,women at their ,confinements--,the ,child ,medicine--,salubrity of the ,climate well adapted for ,invalids suffering from pulmonary ,complaints4 ,the permanence of the station called ,kuruman depends entirely on the fine ever-flowing fountain of that name4 ,it comes from beneath the trap-rock1 of which ,i shall have to speak when describing the geology of the entire country2 and as it usually issues at a temperature of #gb ,deg4 ,fahr41 it probably comes from the old silurian schists1 which formed the bottom of the great primeval valley of the continent4 ,i could not detect any diminution in the flow of this gushing fountain during my residence in the country2 but when ,mr4 ,moffat first attempted a settlement here1 thirty-five years ago1 he made a dam six or seven miles below the present one1 and led out the stream for irrigation1 where not a drop of the fountain-water ever now flows4 ,other parts1 fourteen miles below the ,kuruman gardens1 are pointed out as having contained1 within the memory of people now living1 hippopotami1 and pools sufficient to drown both men and cattle4 ,this failure of water must be chiefly ascribed to the general desiccation of the country1 but partly also to the amount of irrigation carried on along both banks of the stream at the mission station4 ,this latter circumstance would have more weight were it not coincident with the failure of fountains over a wide extent of country4 ,without at present entering minutely into this feature of the climate1 it may be remarked that the ,kuruman district presents evidence of this dry southern region having1 at no very distant date1 been as well watered as the country north of ,lake ,ngami is now4 ,ancient river-beds and water-courses abound1 and the very eyes of fountains long since dried up may be seen1 in which the flow of centuries has worn these orifices from a slit to an oval form1 having on their sides the tufa so abundantly deposited from these primitive waters2 and just where the splashings1 made when the stream fell on the rock below1 may be supposed to have reached and evaporated1 the same phenomenon appears4 ,many of these failing fountains no longer flow1 because the brink over which they ran is now too high1 or because the elevation of the western side of the country lifts the land away from the water supply below2 but let a cutting be made from a lower level than the brink1 and through it to a part below the surface of the water1 and water flows perennially4 ,several of these ancient fountains have been resuscitated by the ,bechuanas near ,kuruman1 who occasionally show their feelings of self-esteem by laboring for months at deep cuttings1 which1 having once begun1 they feel bound in honor to persevere in1 though told by a missionary that they can never force water to run up hill4 ,it is interesting to observe the industry of many ,boers in this region in making long and deep canals from lower levels up to spots destitute of the slightest indication of water existing beneath except a few rushes and a peculiar kind of coarse1 reddish-colored grass growing in a hollow1 which anciently must have been the eye of a fountain1 but is now filled up with soft tufa4 ,in other instances1 the indication of water below consists of the rushes growing on a long1 sandy ridge a foot or two in height instead of in a furrow4 ,a deep transverse cutting made through the higher part of this is rewarded by a stream of running water4 ,the reason why the ground covering this water is higher than the rest of the locality is that the winds carry quantities of fine dust and sand about the country1 and hedges1 bushes1 and trees cause its deposit4 ,the rushes in this case perform the part of the hedges1 and the moisture rising as dew by night fixes the sand securely among the roots1 and a height1 instead of a hollow1 is the result4 ,while on this subject it may be added that there is no perennial fountain in this part of the country except those that come from beneath the quartzose trap1 which constitutes the filling up of the ancient valley2 and as the water supply seems to rest on the old silurian schists which form its bottom1 it is highly probable that ,artesian wells would in several places perform the part which these deep cuttings now do4 ,the aspect of this part of the country during most of the year is of a light yellow color2 for some months during the rainy season it is of a pleasant green mixed with yellow4 ,ranges of hills appear in the west1 but east of them we find hundreds of miles of grass-covered plains4 ,large patches of these flats are covered with white calcareous tufa resting on perfectly horizontal strata of trap4 ,there the vegetation consists of fine grass growing in tufts among low bushes of the wait-a-bit thorn 7',acacia detinens'71 with its annoying fish-hook-like spines4 ,where these rocks do not appear on the surface1 the soil consists of yellow sand and tall1 coarse grasses1 growing among berry-yielding bushes1 named moretloa 7',grewia flava'7 and mohatla 7',tarchonanthus'71 which has enough of aromatic resinous matter to burn brightly1 though perfectly green4 ,in more sheltered spots we come on clumps of the white-thorned mimosa 7',acacia horrida'1 also ',a4 atomiphylla'71 and great abundance of wild sage 7',salvia ,africana'71 and various leguminosae1 ixias1 and large-flowering bulbs3 the ',amaryllis toxicaria' and ',a4 ,brunsvigia multiflora' 7the former a poisonous bulb7 yield in the decayed lamellae a soft1 silky down1 a good material for stuffing mattresses4 ,in some few parts of the country the remains of ancient forests of wild olive-trees 7',olea similis'7 and of the camel-thorn 7',acacia giraffe'7 are still to be met with2 but when these are leveled in the proximity of a ,bechuana village1 no young trees spring up to take their places4 ,this is not because the wood has a growth so slow as not to be appreciable in its increase during the short period that it can be observed by man1 which might be supposed from its being so excessively hard2 for having measured a young tree of this species growing in the corner of ,mr4 ,moffat's garden near the water1 ,i found that it increased at the rate of a quarter of an inch in diameter annually during a number of years4 ,moreover1 the larger specimens1 which now find few or no successors1 if they had more rain in their youth1 can not be above two or three hundred years old4 ,it is probable that this is the tree of which the ,ark of the ,covenant and the ,tabernacle were constructed1 as it is reported to be found where the ,israelites were at the time these were made4 ,it is an imperishable wood1 while that usually pointed out as the shittim 7or ',acacia nilotica'7 soon decays and wants beauty4 ,in association with it we always observe a curious plant1 named ngotuane1 which bears such a profusion of fine yellow strong-scented flowers as quite to perfume the air4 ,this plant forms a remarkable exception to the general rule1 that nearly all the plants in the dry parts of ,africa are scentless1 or emit only a disagreeable odor4 ,it1 moreover1 contains an active poison2 a ,french gentleman1 having imbibed a mouthful or two of an infusion of its flowers as tea1 found himself rendered nearly powerless4 ,vinegar has the peculiar property of rendering this poison perfectly inert1 whether in or out of the body4 ,when mixed with vinegar1 the poison may be drunk with safety1 while1 if only tasted by itself1 it causes a burning sensation in the throat4 ,this gentleman described the action of the vinegar1 when he was nearly deprived of power by the poison imbibed1 to have been as if electricity had run along his nerves as soon as he had taken a single glassful4 ,the cure was instantaneous and complete4 ,i had always to regret want of opportunity for investigating this remarkable and yet controllable agent on the nervous system4 ,its usual proximity to camel-thorn-trees may be accounted for by the ,,probability that the giraffe1 which feeds on this tree1 ,,may make use of the plant as a medicine4 ,during the period of my visit at ,kuruman1 ,mr4 ,moffat1 who has been a missionary in ,africa during upward of forty years1 and is well known by his interesting work1 ,scenes and ,labors in ,south ,africa1 was busily engaged in carrying through the press1 with which his station is furnished1 the ,bible in the language of the ,bechuanas1 which is called ,sichuana4 ,this has been a work of immense labor2 and as he was the first to reduce their speech to a written form1 and has had his attention directed to the study for at least thirty years1 he may be supposed to be better adapted for the task than any man living4 ,some idea of the copiousness of the language may be formed from the fact that even he never spends a week at his work without discovering new words2 the phenomenon1 therefore1 of any man who1 after a few months' or years' study of a native tongue1 cackles forth a torrent of vocables1 may well be wondered at1 if it is meant to convey instruction4 ,in my own case1 though ,i have had as much intercourse with the purest idiom as most ,englishmen1 and have studied the language carefully1 yet ,i can never utter an important statement without doing so very slowly1 and repeating it too1 lest the foreign accent1 which is distinctly perceptible in all ,europeans1 should render the sense unintelligible4 ,in this ,i follow the example of the ,bechuana orators1 who1 on important matters1 always speak slowly1 deliberately1 and with reiteration4 ,the capabilities of this language may be inferred from the fact that the ,pentateuch is fully expressed in ,mr4 ,moffat's translation in fewer words than in the ,greek ,septuagint1 and in a very considerably smaller number than in our own ,english version4 ,the language is1 however1 so simple in its construction1 that its copiousness by no means requires the explanation that the people have fallen from a former state of civilization and culture4 ,language seems to be an attribute of the human mind and thought2 and the inflections1 various as they are in the most barbarous tongues1 as that of the ,bushmen1 are probably only proofs of the race being human1 and endowed with the power of thinking2 the fuller development of language taking place as the improvement of our other faculties goes on4 ,it is fortunate that the translation of the ,bible has been effected before the language became adulterated with half-uttered foreign words1 and while those who have heard the eloquence of the native assemblies are still living2 for the young1 who are brought up in our schools1 know less of the language than the missionaries2 and ,europeans born in the country1 while possessed of the idiom perfectly1 if not otherwise educated1 can not be referred to for explanation of any uncommon word4 ,a person who acted as interpreter to ,sir ,george ,cathcart actually told his excellency that the language of the ,basutos was not capable of expressing the substance of a chief's diplomatic paper1 while every one acquainted with ,moshesh1 the chief who sent it1 well knows that he could in his own tongue have expressed it without study all over again in three or four different ways4 ,the interpreter could scarcely have done as much in ,english4 ,this language both rich and poor speak correctly2 there is no vulgar style2 but children have a 'patois' of their own1 using many words in their play which men would scorn to repeat4 ,the ,bamapela have adopted a click into their dialect1 and a large infusion of the ringing ny1 which seems to have been for the purpose of preventing others from understanding them4 ,the fact of the complete translation of the ,bible at a station seven hundred miles inland from the ,cape naturally suggests the question whether it is likely to be permanently useful1 and whether ,christianity1 as planted by modern missions1 is likely to retain its vitality without constant supplies of foreign teaching8 ,it would certainly be no cause for congratulation if the ,bechuana ,bible seemed at all likely to meet the fate of ,elliot's ,choctaw version1 a specimen of which may be seen in the library of one of the ,american colleges--as ,god's word in a language which no living tongue can articulate1 nor living mortal understand2 but a better destiny seems in store for this1 for the ,sichuana language has been introduced into the new country beyond ,lake ,ngami4 ,there it is the court language1 and will take a stranger any where through a district larger than ,france4 ,the ,bechuanas1 moreover1 in all probability possess that imperishability which forms so remarkable a feature in the entire ,african race4 ,when converts are made from heathenism by modern missionaries1 it becomes an interesting question whether their faith possesses the elements of permanence1 or is only an exotic too tender for self-propagation when the fostering care of the foreign cultivators is withdrawn4 ,if neither habits of self-reliance are cultivated1 nor opportunities given for the exercise of that virtue1 the most promising converts are apt to become like spoiled children4 ,in ,madagascar1 a few ,christians were left with nothing but the ,bible in their hands2 and though exposed to persecution1 and even death itself1 as the penalty of adherence to their profession1 they increased ten-fold in numbers1 and are1 if possible1 more decided believers now than they were when1 by an edict of the queen of that island1 the missionaries ceased their teaching4 ,in ,south ,africa such an experiment could not be made1 for such a variety of ,christian sects have followed the footsteps of the ,london ,missionary ,society's successful career1 that converts of one denomination1 if left to their own resources1 are eagerly adopted by another1 and are thus more likely to become spoiled than trained to the manly ,christian virtues4 ,another element of weakness in this part of the missionary field is the fact of the missionary societies considering the ,cape ,colony itself as a proper sphere for their peculiar operations4 ,in addition to a well-organized and efficient ,dutch ,reformed ,established ,church1 and schools for secular instruction1 maintained by government1 in every village of any extent in the colony1 we have a number of other sects1 as the ,wesleyans1 ,episcopalians1 ,moravians1 all piously laboring at the same good work4 ,now it is deeply to be regretted that so much honest zeal should be so lavishly expended in a district wherein there is so little scope for success4 ,when we hear an agent of one sect urging his friends at home to aid him quickly to occupy some unimportant nook1 because1 if it is not speedily laid hold of1 he will not have room for the sole of his foot1 one can not help longing that both he and his friends would direct their noble aspirations to the millions of untaught heathen in the regions beyond1 and no longer continue to convert the extremity of the continent into1 as it were1 a dam of benevolence4 ,i would earnestly recommend all young missionaries to go at once to the real heathen1 and never to be content with what has been made ready to their hands by men of greater enterprise4 ,the idea of making model ,christians of the young need not be entertained by any one who is secretly convinced1 as most men who know their own hearts are1 that he is not a model ,christian himself4 ,the ,israelitish slaves brought out of ,egypt by ,moses were not converted and elevated in one generation1 though under the direct teaching of ,god himself4 ,notwithstanding the numbers of miracles he wrought1 a generation had to be cut off because of unbelief4 ,our own elevation1 also1 has been the work of centuries1 and1 remembering this1 we should not indulge in overwrought expectations as to the elevation which those who have inherited the degradation of ages may attain in our day4 ,the principle might even be adopted by missionary societies1 that one ordinary missionary's lifetime of teaching should be considered an ample supply of foreign teaching for any tribe in a thinly-peopled country1 for some never will receive the ,gospel at all1 while in other parts1 when ,christianity is once planted1 the work is sure to go on4 ,a missionary is soon known to be supported by his friends at home2 and though the salary is but a bare subsistence1 to ,africans it seems an enormous sum2 and1 being unable to appreciate the motives by which he is actuated1 they consider themselves entitled to various services at his hands1 and defrauded if these are not duly rendered4 ,this feeling is all the stronger when a young man1 instead of going boldly to the real heathen1 settles down in a comfortable house and garden prepared by those into whose labors he has entered4 ,a remedy for this evil might be found in appropriating the houses and gardens raised by the missionaries' hands to their own families4 ,it is ridiculous to call such places as ,kuruman1 for instance1 ,missionary ,society's property4 ,this beautiful station was made what it is1 not by ,english money1 but by the sweat and toil of fathers whose children have1 notwithstanding1 no place on earth which they can call a home4 ,the ,society's operations may be transferred to the north1 and then the strong-built mission premises become the home of a ,boer1 and the stately stone church his cattle-pen4 ,this place has been what the monasteries of ,europe are said to have been when pure4 ,the monks did not disdain to hold the plow4 ,they introduced fruit-trees1 flowers1 and vegetables1 in addition to teaching and emancipating the serfs4 ,their monasteries were mission stations1 which resembled ours in being dispensaries for the sick1 almshouses for the poor1 and nurseries of learning4 ,can we learn nothing from them in their prosperity as the schools of ,europe1 and see naught in their history but the pollution and laziness of their decay8 ,can our wise men tell us why the former mission stations 7primitive monasteries7 were self-supporting1 rich1 and flourishing as pioneers of civilization and agriculture1 from which we even now reap benefits1 and modern mission stations are mere pauper establishments1 without that permanence or ability to be self-supporting which they possessed8 ,protestant missionaries of every denomination in ,south ,africa all agree in one point1 that no mere profession of ,christianity is sufficient to entitle the converts to the ,christian name4 ,they are all anxious to place the ,bible in the hands of the natives1 and1 with ability to read that1 there can be little doubt as to the future4 ,we believe ,christianity to be divine1 and equal to all it has to perform2 then let the good seed be widely sown1 and1 no matter to what sect the converts may belong1 the harvest will be glorious4 ,let nothing that ,i have said be interpreted as indicative of feelings inimical to any body of ,christians1 for ,i never1 as a missionary1 felt myself to be either ,presbyterian1 ,episcopalian1 or ,independent1 or called upon in any way to love one denomination less than another4 ,my earnest desire is1 that those who really have the best interests of the heathen at heart should go to them2 and assuredly1 in ,africa at least1 self-denying labors among real heathen will not fail to be appreciated4 ,christians have never yet dealt fairly by the heathen and been disappointed4 ,when ,sechele understood that we could no longer remain with him at ,kolobeng1 he sent his children to ,mr4 ,moffat1 at ,kuruman1 for instruction in all the knowledge of the white men4 ,mr4 ,moffat very liberally received at once an accession of five to his family1 with their attendants4 ,having been detained at ,kuruman about a fortnight by the breaking of a wagon-wheel1 ,i was thus providentially prevented from being present at the attack of the ,boers on the ,bakwains1 news of which was brought1 about the end of that time1 by ,masebele1 the wife of ,sechele4 ,she had herself been hidden in a cleft of a rock1 over which a number of ,boers were firing4 ,her infant began to cry1 and1 terrified lest this should attract the attention of the men1 the muzzles of whose guns appeared at every discharge over her head1 she took off her armlets as playthings to quiet the child4 ,she brought ,mr4 ,moffat a letter1 which tells its own tale4 ,nearly literally translated it was as follows3 ,friend of my heart's love1 and of all the confidence of my heart1 ,i am ,sechele4 ,i am undone by the ,boers1 who attacked me1 though ,i had no guilt with them4 ,they demanded that ,i should be in their kingdom1 and ,i refused4 ,they demanded that ,i should prevent the ,english and ,griquas from passing 7northward74 ,i replied1 ,these are my friends1 and ,i can prevent no one 7of them74 ,they came on ,saturday1 and ,i besought them not to fight on ,sunday1 and they assented4 ,they began on ,monday morning at twilight1 and fired with all their might1 and burned the town with fire1 and scattered us4 ,they killed sixty of my people1 and captured women1 and children1 and men4 ,and the mother of ,baleriling 7a former wife of ,sechele7 they also took prisoner4 ,they took all the cattle and all the goods of the ,bakwains2 and the house of ,livingstone they plundered1 taking away all his goods4 ,the number of wagons they had was eighty-five1 and a cannon2 and after they had stolen my own wagon and that of ,macabe1 then the number of their wagons 7counting the cannon as one7 was eighty-eight4 ,all the goods of the hunters 7certain ,english gentlemen hunting and exploring in the north7 were burned in the town2 and of the ,boers were killed twenty-eight4 ,yes1 my beloved friend1 now my wife goes to see the children1 and ,kobus ,hae will convey her to you4 ,i am1 ,,sechele1 ,the ,son of ,mochoasele4 ,this statement is in exact accordance with the account given by the native teacher ,mebalwe1 and also that sent by some of the ,boers themselves to the public colonial papers4 ,the crime of cattle-stealing1 of which we hear so much near ,caffreland1 was never alleged against these people1 and1 if a single case had occurred when ,i was in the country1 ,i must have heard of it1 and would at once say so4 ,but the only crime imputed in the papers was that ,sechele was getting too saucy4 ,the demand made for his subjection and service in preventing the ,english traders passing to the north was kept out of view4 ,very soon after ,pretorius had sent the marauding party against ,kolobeng1 he was called away to the tribunal of infinite justice4 ,his policy is justified by the ,boers generally from the instructions given to the ,jewish warriors in ,deuteronomy #bj3aj-ad4 ,hence1 when he died1 the obituary notice ended with ,blessed are the dead who die in the ,lord4 ,i wish he had not forbidden us to preach unto the ,gentiles that they may be saved4 ,the report of this outrage on the ,bakwains1 coupled with denunciations against myself for having1 as it was alleged1 taught them to kill ,boers1 produced such a panic in the country1 that ,i could not engage a single servant to accompany me to the north4 ,i have already alluded to their mode of warfare1 and in all previous ,boerish forays the killing had all been on one side2 now1 however1 that a tribe where an ,englishman had lived had begun to shed ,,their blood as well1 it was considered the strongest presumptive evidence against me4 ,loud vows of vengeance were uttered against my head1 and threats of instant pursuit by a large party on horseback1 should ,i dare to go into or beyond their country2 and as these were coupled with the declaration that the ,english government had given over the whole of the native tribes to their rule1 and would assist in their entire subjection by preventing fire-arms and ammunition from entering the country1 except for the use of the ,boers1 it was not to be wondered at that ,i was detained for months at ,kuruman from sheer inability to get wagon-drivers4 ,the ,english name1 from being honored and respected all over the country1 had become somewhat more than suspected2 and as the policy of depriving those friendly tribes of the means of defense was represented by the ,boers as proof positive of the wish of the ,english that they should be subjugated1 the conduct of a government which these tribes always thought the paragon of justice and friendship was rendered totally incomprehensible to them2 they could neither defend themselves against their enemies1 nor shoot the animals in the produce of which we wished them to trade4 ,at last ,i found three servants willing to risk a journey to the north2 and a man of color named ,george ,fleming1 who had generously been assisted by ,mr4 ,h4 ,e4 ,rutherford1 a mercantile gentleman of ,cape ,town1 to endeavor to establish a trade with the ,makololo1 had also managed to get a similar number2 we accordingly left ,kuruman on the #bjth of ,november1 and proceeded on our journey4 ,our servants were the worst possible specimens of those who imbibe the vices without the virtues of ,europeans1 but we had no choice1 and were glad to get away on any terms4 ,when we reached ,motito1 forty miles off1 we met ,sechele on his way1 as he said1 to the ,queen of ,england4 ,two of his own children1 and their mother1 a former wife1 were among the captives seized by the ,boers2 and being strongly imbued with the then very prevalent notion of ,england's justice and generosity1 he thought that in consequence of the violated treaty he had a fair case to lay before her majesty4 ,he employed all his eloquence and powers of persuasion to induce me to accompany him1 but ,i excused myself on the ground that my arrangements were already made for exploring the north4 ,on explaining the difficulties of the way1 and endeavoring to dissuade him from the attempt1 on account of the knowledge ,i possessed of the governor's policy1 he put the pointed question1 ,will the queen not listen to me1 supposing ,i should reach her8 ,i replied1 ,i believe she would listen1 but the difficulty is to get to her4 ,well1 ,i shall reach her1 expressed his final determination4 ,others explained the difficulties more fully1 but nothing could shake his resolution4 ,when he reached ,bloemfontein he found the ,english army just returning from a battle with the ,basutos1 in which both parties claimed the victory1 and both were glad that a second engagement was not tried4 ,our officers invited ,sechele to dine with them1 heard his story1 and collected a handsome sum of money to enable him to pursue his journey to ,england4 ,the commander refrained from noticing him1 as a single word in favor of the restoration of the children of ,sechele would have been a virtual confession of the failure of his own policy at the very outset4 ,sechele proceeded as far as the ,cape2 but his resources being there expended1 he was obliged to return to his own country1 one thousand miles distant1 without accomplishing the object of his journey4 ,on his return he adopted a mode of punishment which he had seen in the colony1 namely1 making criminals work on the public roads4 ,and he has since1 ,i am informed1 made himself the missionary to his own people4 ,he is tall1 rather corpulent1 and has more of the negro feature than common1 but has large eyes4 ,he is very dark1 and his people swear by ,black ,sechele4 ,he has great intelligence1 reads well1 and is a fluent speaker4 ,great numbers of the tribes formerly living under the ,boers have taken refuge under his sway1 and he is now greater in power than he was before the attack on ,kolobeng4 ,having parted with ,sechele1 we skirted along the ,kalahari ,desert1 and sometimes within its borders1 giving the ,boers a wide berth4 ,a larger fall of rain than usual had occurred in #aheb1 and that was the completion of a cycle of eleven or twelve years1 at which the same phenomenon is reported to have happened on three occasions4 ,an unusually large crop of melons had appeared in consequence4 ,we had the pleasure of meeting with ,mr4 ,j4 ,macabe returning from ,lake ,ngami1 which he had succeeded in reaching by going right across the ,desert from a point a little to the south of ,kolobeng4 ,the accounts of the abundance of watermelons were amply confirmed by this energetic traveler2 for1 having these in vast quantities1 his cattle subsisted on the fluid contained in them for a period of no less than twenty-one days2 and when at last they reached a supply of water1 they did not seem to care much about it4 ,coming to the lake from the southeast1 he crossed the ,teoughe1 and went round the northern part of it1 and is the only ,european traveler who had actually seen it all4 ,his estimate of the extent of the lake is higher than that given by ,mr4 ,oswell and myself1 or from about ninety to one hundred miles in circumference4 ,before the lake was discovered1 ,macabe wrote a letter in one of the ,cape papers recommending a certain route as likely to lead to it4 ,the ,transvaal ,boers fined him #ejj dollars for writing about ouze felt1 ,,our country1 and imprisoned him1 too1 till the fine was paid4 ,i now learned from his own lips that the public report of this is true4 ,mr4 ,macabe's companion1 ,mahar1 was mistaken by a tribe of ,barolongs for a ,boer1 and shot as he approached their village4 ,when ,macabe came up and explained that he was an ,englishman1 they expressed the utmost regret1 and helped to bury him4 ,this was the first case in recent times of an ,englishman being slain by the ,bechuanas4 ,we afterward heard that there had been some fighting between these ,barolongs and the ,boers1 and that there had been capturing of cattle on both sides4 ,if this was true1 ,i can only say that it was the first time that ,i ever heard of cattle being taken by ,bechuanas4 ,this was a ,caffre war in stage the second2 the third stage in the development is when both sides are equally well armed and afraid of each other2 the fourth1 when the ,english take up a quarrel not their own1 and the ,boers slip out of the fray4 ,two other ,english gentlemen crossed and recrossed the ,desert about the same time1 and nearly in the same direction4 ,on returning1 one of them1 ,captain ,shelley1 while riding forward on horseback1 lost himself1 and was obliged to find his way alone to ,kuruman1 some hundreds of miles distant4 ,reaching that station shirtless1 and as brown as a ,griqua1 he was taken for one by ,mrs4 ,moffat1 and was received by her with a salutation in ,dutch1 that being the language spoken by this people4 ,his sufferings must have been far more severe than any we endured4 ,the result of the exertions of both ,shelley and ,macabe is to prove that the general view of the ,desert always given by the natives has been substantially correct4 ,occasionally1 during the very dry seasons which succeed our winter and precede our rains1 a hot wind blows over the ,desert from north to south4 ,it feels somewhat as if it came from an oven1 and seldom blows longer at a time than three days4 ,it resembles in its effects the harmattan of the north of ,africa1 and at the time the missionaries first settled in the country1 thirty-five years ago1 it came loaded with fine reddish-colored sand4 ,though no longer accompanied by sand1 it is so devoid of moisture as to cause the wood of the best seasoned ,english boxes and furniture to shrink1 so that every wooden article not made in the country is warped4 ,the verls of ramrods made in ,england are loosened1 and on returning to ,europe fasten again4 ,this wind is in such an electric state that a bunch of ostrich feathers held a few seconds against it becomes as strongly charged as if attached to a powerful electrical machine1 and clasps the advancing hand with a sharp crackling sound4 ,when this hot wind is blowing1 and even at other times1 the peculiarly strong electrical state of the atmosphere causes the movement of a native in his kaross to produce therein a stream of small sparks4 ,the first time ,i noticed this appearance was while a chief was traveling with me in my wagon4 ,seeing part of the fur of his mantle1 which was exposed to slight friction by the movement of the wagon1 assume quite a luminous appearance1 ,i rubbed it smartly with the hand1 and found it readily gave out bright sparks1 accompanied with distinct cracks4 ,don't you see this8 said ,i4 ,the white men did not show us this1 he replied2 we had it long before white men came into the country1 we and our forefathers of old4 ,unfortunately1 ,i never inquired the name which they gave to this appearance1 but ,i have no doubt there is one for it in the language4 ,otto von ,guerrike is said1 by ,baron ,humboldt1 to have been the first that ever observed this effect in ,europe1 but the phenomenon had been familiar to the ,bechuanas for ages4 ,nothing came of that1 however1 for they viewed the sight as if with the eyes of an ox4 ,the human mind has remained here as stagnant to the present day1 in reference to the physical operations of the universe1 as it once did in ,england4 ,no science has been developed1 and few questions are ever discussed except those which have an intimate connection with the wants of the stomach4 ,very large flocks of swifts 7',cypselus apus'7 were observed flying over the plains north of ,kuruman4 ,i counted a stream of them1 which1 by the time it took to pass toward the reeds of that valley1 must have numbered upward of four thousand4 ,only a few of these birds breed at any time in this country4 ,i have often observed them1 and noticed that there was no appearance of their having paired2 there was no chasing of each other1 nor any playing together4 ,there are several other birds which continue in flocks1 and move about like wandering gipsies1 even during the breeding season1 which in this country happens in the intervals between the cold and hot seasons1 cold acting somewhat in the same way here as the genial warmth of spring does in ,europe4 ,are these the migratory birds of ,europe1 which return there to breed and rear their young8 ,on the #cast of ,december1 #aheb1 we reached the town of ,sechele1 called1 from the part of the range on which it is situated1 ,litubaruba4 ,near the village there exists a cave named ,lepelole2 it is an interesting evidence of the former existence of a gushing fountain4 ,no one dared to enter the ,lohaheng1 or cave1 for it was the common belief that it was the habitation of the ,deity4 ,as we never had a holiday from ,january to ,december1 and our ,sundays were the periods of our greatest exertions in teaching1 ,i projected an excursion into the cave on a week-day to see the god of the ,bakwains4 ,the old men said that every one who went in remained there forever1 adding1 ,if the teacher is so mad as to kill himself1 let him do so alone1 we shall not be to blame4 ,the declaration of ,sechele1 that he would follow where ,i led1 produced the greatest consternation4 ,it is curious that in all their pretended dreams or visions of their god he has always a crooked leg1 like the ,egyptian ,thau4 ,supposing that those who were reported to have perished in this cave had fallen over some precipice1 we went well provided with lights1 ladder1 lines1 c42 but it turned out to be only an open cave1 with an entrance about ten feet square1 which contracts into two water-worn branches1 ending in round orifices through which the water once flowed4 ,the only inhabitants it seems ever to have had were baboons4 ,i left at the end of the upper branch one of ,father ,mathew's leaden teetotal tickets4 ,i never saw the ,bakwains looking so haggard and lean as at this time4 ,most of their cattle had been swept away by the ,boers1 together with about eighty fine draught oxen2 and much provision left with them by two officers1 ,captains ,codrington and ,webb1 to serve for their return journey south1 had been carried off also4 ,on their return these officers found the skeletons of the ,bakwains where they expected to find their own goods4 ,all the corn1 clothing1 and furniture of the people1 too1 had been consumed in the flames which the ,boers had forced the subject tribes to apply to the town during the fight1 so that its inhabitants were now literally starving4 ,sechele had given orders to his people not to commit any act of revenge pending his visit to the ,queen of ,england2 but some of the young men ventured to go to meet a party of ,boers returning from hunting1 and1 as the ,boers became terrified and ran off1 they brought their wagons to ,litubaruba4 ,this seems to have given the main body of ,boers an idea that the ,bakwains meant to begin a guerrilla war upon them4 ,this ,caffre war was1 however1 only in embryo1 and not near that stage of development in which the natives have found out that the hide-and-seek system is the most successful4 ,the ,boers1 in alarm1 sent four of their number to ask for peace6 ,i1 being present1 heard the condition3 ,sechele's children must be restored to him4 ,i never saw men so completely and unconsciously in a trap as these four ,boers were4 ,strong parties of armed ,bakwains occupied every pass in the hills and gorges around2 and had they not promised much more than they intended1 or did perform1 that day would have been their last4 ,the commandant ,scholz had appropriated the children of ,sechele to be his own domestic slaves4 ,i was present when one little boy1 ,khari1 son of ,sechele1 was returned to his mother2 the child had been allowed to roll into the fire1 and there were three large unbound open sores on different parts of his body4 ,his mother and the women received him with a flood of silent tears4 ,slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in some places4 ,the ,boers assert that they are the best of masters1 and that1 if the ,english had possessed the ,hottentot slaves1 they would have received much worse treatment than they did3 what that would have been it is difficult to imagine4 ,i took down the names of some scores of boys and girls1 many of whom ,i knew as our scholars2 but ,i could not comfort the weeping mothers by any hope of their ever returning from slavery4 ,the ,bechuanas are universally much attached to children4 ,a little child toddling near a party of men while they are eating is sure to get a handful of the food4 ,this love of children may arise1 in a great measure1 from the patriarchal system under which they dwell4 ,every little stranger forms an increase of property to the whole community1 and is duly reported to the chief--boys being more welcome than girls4 ,the parents take the name of the child1 and often address their children as ,ma 7mother71 or ,ra 7father74 ,our eldest boy being named ,robert1 ,mrs4 ,livingstone was1 after his birth1 always addressed as ,ma-,robert1 instead of ,mary1 her ,christian name4 ,i have examined several cases in which a grandmother has taken upon herself to suckle a grandchild4 ,masina of ,kuruman had no children after the birth of her daughter ,sina1 and had no milk after ,sina was weaned1 an event which usually is deferred till the child is two or three years old4 ,sina married when she was seventeen or eighteen1 and had twins2 ,masina1 after at least fifteen years' interval since she had suckled a child1 took possession of one of them1 applied it to her breast1 and milk flowed1 so that she was able to nurse the child entirely4 ,masina was at this time at least forty years of age4 ,i have witnessed several other cases analogous to this4 ,a grandmother of forty1 or even less1 for they become withered at an early age1 when left at home with a young child1 applies it to her own shriveled breast1 and milk soon follows4 ,in some cases1 as that of ,ma-bogosing1 the chief wife of ,mahure1 who was about thirty-five years of age1 the child was not entirely dependent on the grandmother's breast1 as the mother suckled it too4 ,i had witnessed the production of milk so frequently by the simple application of the lips of the child1 that ,i was not therefore surprised when told by the ,portuguese in ,eastern ,africa of a native doctor who1 by applying a poultice of the pounded larvae of hornets to the breast of a woman1 aided by the attempts of the child1 could bring back the milk4 ,is it not possible that the story in the ,cloud of ,witnesses of a man1 during the time of persecution in ,scotland1 putting his child to his own breast1 and finding1 to the astonishment of the whole country1 that milk followed the act1 may have been literally true8 ,it was regarded and is quoted as a miracle2 but the feelings of the father toward the child of a murdered mother must have been as nearly as possible analogous to the maternal feeling2 and1 as anatomists declare the structure of both male and female breasts to be identical1 there is nothing physically impossible in the alleged result4 ,the illustrious ,baron ,humboldt quotes an instance of the male breast yielding milk2 and1 though ,i am not conscious of being over-credulous1 the strange instances ,i have examined in the opposite sex make me believe that there is no error in that philosopher's statement4 ,the ,boers know from experience that adult captives may as well be left alone1 for escape is so easy in a wild country that no fugitive-slave-law can come into operation2 they therefore adopt the system of seizing only the youngest children1 in order that these may forget their parents and remain in perpetual bondage4 ,i have seen mere infants in their houses repeatedly4 ,this fact was formerly denied2 and the only thing which was wanting to make the previous denial of the practice of slavery and slave-hunting by the ,transvaal ,boers no longer necessary was the declaration of their independence4 ,in conversation with some of my friends here ,i learned that ,maleke1 a chief of the ,bakwains1 who formerly lived on the hill ,litubaruba1 had been killed by the bite of a mad dog4 ,my curiosity was strongly excited by this statement1 as rabies is so rare in this country4 ,i never heard of another case1 and could not satisfy myself that even this was real hydrophobia4 ,while ,i was at ,mabotsa1 some dogs became affected by a disease which led them to run about in an incoherent state2 but ,i doubt whether it was any thing but an affection of the brain4 ,no individual or animal got the complaint by inoculation from the animals' teeth2 and from all that ,i could hear1 the prevailing idea of hydrophobia not existing within the tropics seems to be quite correct4 ,the diseases known among the ,bakwains are remarkably few4 ,there is no consumption nor scrofula1 and insanity and hydrocephalus are rare4 ,cancer and cholera are quite unknown4 ,small-pox and measles passed through the country about twenty years ago1 and committed great ravages2 but1 though the former has since broken out on the coast repeatedly1 neither disease has since traveled inland4 ,for small-pox1 the natives employed1 in some parts1 inoculation in the forehead with some animal deposit2 in other parts1 they employed the matter of the small-pox itself2 and in one village they seem to have selected a virulent case for the matter used in the operation1 for nearly all the village was swept off by the disease in a malignant confluent form4 ,where the idea came from ,i can not conceive4 ,it was practiced by the ,bakwains at a time when they had no intercourse1 direct or indirect1 with the southern missionaries4 ,they all adopt readily the use of vaccine virus when it is brought within their reach4 ,a certain loathsome disease1 which decimates the ,north ,american ,indians1 and threatens extirpation to the ,south ,sea ,islanders1 dies out in the interior of ,africa without the aid of medicine2 and the ,bangwaketse1 who brought it from the west coast1 lost it when they came into their own land southwest of ,kolobeng4 ,it seems incapable of permanence in any form in persons of pure ,african blood any where in the centre of the country4 ,in persons of mixed blood it is otherwise2 and the virulence of the secondary symptoms seemed to be1 in all the cases that came under my care1 in exact proportion to the greater or less amount of ,european blood in the patient4 ,among the ,corannas and ,griquas of mixed breed it produces the same ravages as in ,europe2 among half-blood ,portuguese it is equally frightful in its inroads on the system2 but in the pure ,negro of the central parts it is quite incapable of permanence4 ,among the ,barotse ,i found a disease called manassah1 which closely resembles that of the 'foeda mulier' of history4 ,equally unknown is stone in the bladder and gravel4 ,i never met with a case1 though the waters are often so strongly impregnated with sulphate of lime that kettles quickly become incrusted internally with the salt2 and some of my patients1 who were troubled with indigestion1 believed that their stomachs had got into the same condition4 ,this freedom from calculi would appear to be remarkable in the negro race1 even in the ,united ,states2 for seldom indeed have the most famed lithotomists there ever operated on a negro4 ,the diseases most prevalent are the following3 pneumonia1 produced by sudden changes of temperature1 and other inflammations1 as of the bowels1 stomach1 and pleura2 rheumatism2 disease of the heart--but these become rare as the people adopt the ,european dress--various forms of indigestion and ophthalmia2 hooping-cough comes frequently2 and every year the period preceding the rains is marked by some sort of epidemic4 ,sometimes it is general ophthalmia1 resembling closely the ,egyptian4 ,in another year it is a kind of diarrhoea1 which nothing will cure until there is a fall of rain1 and any thing acts as a charm after that4 ,one year the epidemic period was marked by a disease which looked like pneumonia1 but had the peculiar symptom strongly developed of great pain in the seventh cervical process4 ,many persons died of it1 after being in a comatose state for many hours or days before their decease4 ,no inspection of the body being ever allowed by these people1 and the place of sepulture being carefully concealed1 ,i had to rest satisfied with conjecture4 ,frequently the ,bakwains buried their dead in the huts where they died1 for fear lest the witches 7,baloi7 should disinter their friends1 and use some part of the body in their fiendish arts4 ,scarcely is the breath out of the body when the unfortunate patient is hurried away to be buried4 ,an ant-eater's hole is often selected1 in order to save the trouble of digging a grave4 ,on two occasions while ,i was there this hasty burial was followed by the return home of the men1 who had been buried alive1 to their affrighted relatives4 ,they had recovered1 while in their graves1 from prolonged swoons4 ,in ophthalmia the doctors cup on the temples1 and apply to the eyes the pungent smoke of certain roots1 the patient1 at the same time1 taking strong draughts of it up his nostrils4 ,we found the solution of nitrate of silver1 two or three grains to the ounce of rain-water1 answer the same end so much more effectually1 that every morning numbers of patients crowded round our house for the collyrium4 ,it is a good preventive of an acute attack when poured into the eyes as soon as the pain begins1 and might prove valuable for travelers4 ,cupping is performed with the horn of a goat or antelope1 having a little hole pierced in the small end4 ,in some cases a small piece of wax is attached1 and a temporary hole made through it to the horn4 ,when the air is well withdrawn1 and kept out by touching the orifice1 at every inspiration1 with the point of the tongue1 the wax is at last pressed together with the teeth1 and the little hole in it closed up1 leaving a vacuum within the horn for the blood to flow from the already scarified parts4 ,the edges of the horn applied to the surface are wetted1 and cupping is well performed1 though the doctor occasionally1 by separating the fibrine from the blood in a basin of water by his side1 and exhibiting it1 pretends that he has extracted something more than blood4 ,he can thus explain the rationale of the cure by his own art1 and the ocular demonstration given is well appreciated4 ,those doctors who have inherited their profession as an heirloom from their fathers and grandfathers generally possess some valuable knowledge1 the result of long and close observation2 but if a man can not say that the medical art is in his family1 he may be considered a quack4 ,with the regular practitioners ,i always remained on the best terms1 by refraining from appearing to doubt their skill in the presence of their patients4 ,any explanation in private was thankfully received by them1 and wrong treatment changed into something more reasonable with cordial good-will1 if no one but the doctor and myself were present at the conversation4 ,english medicines were eagerly asked for and accepted by all2 and we always found medical knowledge an important aid in convincing the people that we were really anxious for their welfare4 ,we can not accuse them of ingratitude2 in fact1 we shall remember the kindness of the ,bakwains to us as long as we live4 ,the surgical knowledge of the native doctors is rather at a low ebb4 ,no one ever attempted to remove a tumor except by external applications4 ,those with which the natives are chiefly troubled are fatty and fibrous tumors2 and as they all have the 'vis medicatrix naturae' in remarkable activity1 ,i safely removed an immense number4 ,in illustration of their want of surgical knowledge may be mentioned the case of a man who had a tumor as large as a child's head4 ,this was situated on the nape of his neck1 and prevented his walking straight4 ,he applied to his chief1 and he got some famous strange doctor from the ,east ,coast to cure him4 ,he and his assistants attempted to dissolve it by kindling on it a little fire made of a few small pieces of medicinal roots4 ,i removed it for him1 and he always walked with his head much more erect than he needed to do ever afterward4 ,both men and women submit to an operation without wincing1 or any of that shouting which caused young students to faint in the operating theatre before the introduction of chloroform4 ,the women pride themselves on their ability to bear pain4 ,a mother will address her little girl1 from whose foot a thorn is to be extracted1 with1 ,now1 ma1 you are a woman2 a woman does not cry4 ,a man scorns to shed tears4 ,when we were passing one of the deep wells in the ,kalahari1 a boy1 the son of an aged father1 had been drowned in it while playing on its brink4 ,when all hope was gone1 the father uttered an exceedingly great and bitter cry4 ,it was sorrow without hope4 ,this was the only instance ,i ever met with of a man weeping in this country4 ,their ideas on obstetrics are equally unscientific1 and a medical man going near a woman at her confinement appeared to them more out of place than a female medical student appears to us in a dissecting-room4 ,a case of twins1 however1 happening1 and the ointment of all the doctors of the town proving utterly insufficient to effect the relief which a few seconds of ,english art afforded1 the prejudice vanished at once4 ,as it would have been out of the question for me to have entered upon this branch of the profession--as indeed it would be inexpedient for any medical man to devote himself exclusively1 in a thinly-peopled country1 to the practice of medicine--,i thereafter reserved myself for the difficult cases only1 and had the satisfaction of often conferring great benefits on poor women in their hour of sorrow4 ,the poor creatures are often placed in a little hut built for the purpose1 and are left without any assistance whatever1 and the numbers of umbilical herniae which are met with in consequence is very great4 ,the women suffer less at their confinement than is the case in civilized countries2 perhaps from their treating it1 not as a disease1 but as an operation of nature1 requiring no change of diet except a feast of meat and abundance of fresh air4 ,the husband on these occasions is bound to slaughter for his lady an ox1 or goat1 or sheep1 according to his means4 ,my knowledge in the above line procured for me great fame in a department in which ,i could lay no claim to merit4 ,a woman came a distance of one hundred miles for relief in a complaint which seemed to have baffled the native doctors2 a complete cure was the result4 ,some twelve months after she returned to her husband1 she bore a son4 ,her husband having previously reproached her for being barren1 she sent me a handsome present1 and proclaimed all over the country that ,i possessed a medicine for the cure of sterility4 ,the consequence was1 that ,i was teased with applications from husbands and wives from all parts of the country4 ,some came upward of two hundred miles to purchase the great boon1 and it was in vain for me to explain that ,i had only cured the disease of the other case4 ,the more ,i denied1 the higher their offers rose2 they would give any money for the child medicine2 and it was really heart-rending to hear the earnest entreaty1 and see the tearful eye1 which spoke the intense desire for offspring3 ,i am getting old2 you see gray hairs here and there on my head1 and ,i have no child2 you know how ,bechuana husbands cast their old wives away2 what can ,i do8 ,i have no child to bring water to me when ,i am sick1 etc4 ,the whole of the country adjacent to the ,desert1 from ,kuruman to ,kolobeng1 or ,litubaruba1 and beyond up to the latitude of ,lake ,ngami1 is remarkable for its great salubrity of climate4 ,not only the natives1 but ,europeans whose constitutions have been impaired by an ,indian climate1 find the tract of country indicated both healthy and restorative4 ,the health and longevity of the missionaries have always been fair1 though mission-work is not very conducive to either elsewhere4 ,cases have been known in which patients have come from the coast with complaints closely resembling1 if they were not actually1 those of consumption2 and they have recovered by the influence of the climate alone4 ,it must always be borne in mind that the climate near the coast1 from which we received such very favorable reports of the health of the ,british troops1 is actually inferior for persons suffering from pulmonary complaints to that of any part not subjected to the influence of sea-air4 ,i have never seen the beneficial effects of the inland climate on persons of shattered constitutions1 nor heard their high praises of the benefit they have derived from traveling1 without wishing that its bracing effects should become more extensively known in ,england4 ,no one who has visited the region ,i have above mentioned fails to remember with pleasure the wild1 healthful gipsy life of wagon-traveling4 ,a considerable proportion of animal diet seems requisite here4 ,independent of the want of salt1 we required meat in as large quantity daily as we do in ,england1 and no bad effects1 in the way of biliousness1 followed the free use of flesh1 as in other hot climates4 ,a vegetable diet causes acidity and heartburn4 ,mr4 ,oswell thought this climate much superior to that of ,peru1 as far as pleasure is concerned2 the want of instruments unfortunately prevented my obtaining accurate scientific data for the medical world on this subject2 and were it not for the great expense of such a trip1 ,i should have no hesitation in recommending the borders of the ,kalahari ,desert as admirably suited for all patients having pulmonary complaints4 ,it is the complete antipodes to our cold1 damp1 ,english climate4 ,the winter is perfectly dry2 and as not a drop of rain falls during that period1 namely1 from the beginning of ,may to the end of ,august1 damp and cold are never combined4 ,however hot the day may have been at ,kolobeng--and the thermometer sometimes rose1 previous to a fall of rain1 up to #if ,deg4 in the coolest part of our house--yet the atmosphere never has that steamy feeling nor those debilitating effects so well known in ,india and on the coast of ,africa itself4 ,in the evenings the air becomes deliciously cool1 and a pleasant refreshing night follows the hottest day4 ,the greatest heat ever felt is not so oppressive as it is when there is much humidity in the air2 and the great evaporation consequent on a fall of rain makes the rainy season the most agreeable for traveling4 ,nothing can exceed the balmy feeling of the evenings and mornings during the whole year4 ,you wish for an increase neither of cold nor heat2 and you can sit out of doors till midnight without ever thinking of colds or rheumatism2 or you may sleep out at night1 looking up to the moon till you fall asleep1 without a thought or sign of moon-blindness4 ,indeed1 during many months there is scarcely any dew4 ,chapter #g4 ,departure from the ,country of the ,bakwains--,large black ,ant--,land ,tortoises--,diseases of wild ,animals--,habits of old ,lions--,cowardice of the ,lion--,its ,dread of a ,snare--,major ,vardon's ,note--,the ,roar of the ,lion resembles the ,cry of the ,ostrich--,seldom attacks full-grown ,animals--,buffaloes and ,lions--,mice--,serpents--,treading on one--,venomous and harmless ,varieties--,fascination--,sekomi's ,ideas of ,honesty--,ceremony of the ,sechu for ,boys--,the ,boyale for young ,women--,bamangwato ,hills--,the ,unicorn's ,pass--,the ,country beyond--,grain--,scarcity of ,water--,honorable ,conduct of ,english ,gentlemen--,gordon ,cumming's hunting ,adventures--,a ,word of ,advice for young ,sportsmen--,bushwomen drawing ,water--,ostrich--,silly ,habit--,paces--,eggs--,food4 ,having remained five days with the wretched ,bakwains1 seeing the effects of war1 of which only a very inadequate idea can ever be formed by those who have not been eye-witnesses of its miseries1 we prepared to depart on the #aeth of ,january1 #ahec4 ,several dogs1 in better condition by far than any of the people1 had taken up their residence at the water4 ,no one would own them2 there they had remained1 and1 coming on the trail of the people1 long after their departure from the scene of conflict1 it was plain they had ,held o'er the dead their carnival4 ,hence the disgust with which they were viewed4 ,on our way from ,khopong1 along the ancient river-bed which forms the pathway to ,boatlanama1 ,i found a species of cactus1 being the third ,i have seen in the country1 namely1 one in the colony with a bright red flower1 one at ,lake ,ngami1 the flower of which was liver-colored1 and the present one1 flower unknown4 ,that the plant is uncommon may be inferred from the fact that the ,bakwains find so much difficulty in recognizing the plant again after having once seen it1 that they believe it has the power of changing its locality4 ,on the #bast of ,january we reached the wells of ,boatlanama1 and found them for the first time empty4 ,lopepe1 which ,i had formerly seen a stream running from a large reedy pool1 was also dry4 ,the hot salt spring of ,serinane1 east of ,lopepe1 being undrinkable1 we pushed on to ,mashue for its delicious waters4 ,in traveling through this country1 the olfactory nerves are frequently excited by a strong disagreeable odor4 ,this is caused by a large jet-black ant named ,leshonya4 ,it is nearly an inch in length1 and emits a pungent smell when alarmed1 in the same manner as the skunk4 ,the scent must be as volatile as ether1 for1 on irritating the insect with a stick six feet long1 the odor is instantly perceptible4 ,occasionally we lighted upon land tortoises1 which1 with their unlaid eggs1 make a very agreeable dish4 ,we saw many of their trails leading to the salt fountain2 they must have come great distances for this health-giving article4 ,in lieu thereof they often devour wood-ashes4 ,it is wonderful how this reptile holds its place in the country4 ,when seen1 it never escapes4 ,the young are taken for the sake of their shells2 these are made into boxes1 which1 filled with sweet-smelling roots1 the women hang around their persons4 ,when older it is used as food1 and the shell converted into a rude basin to hold food or water4 ,it owes its continuance neither to speed nor cunning4 ,its color1 yellow and dark brown1 is well adapted1 by its similarity to the surrounding grass and brushwood1 to render it indistinguishable2 and1 though it makes an awkward attempt to run on the approach of man1 its trust is in its bony covering1 from which even the teeth of a hyaena glance off foiled4 ,when this long-lived creature is about to deposit her eggs1 she lets herself into the ground by throwing the earth up round her shell1 until only the top is visible2 then covering up the eggs1 she leaves them until the rains begin to fall and the fresh herbage appears2 the young ones then come out1 their shells still quite soft1 and1 unattended by their dam1 begin the world for themselves4 ,their food is tender grass and a plant named thotona1 and they frequently resort to heaps of ashes and places containing efflorescence of the nitrates for the salts these contain4 ,inquiries among the ,bushmen and ,bakalahari1 who are intimately acquainted with the habits of the game1 lead to the belief that many diseases prevail among wild animals4 ,i have seen the kokong or gnu1 kama or hartebeest1 the tsessebe1 kukama1 and the giraffe1 so mangy as to be uneatable even by the natives4 ,reference has already been made to the peripneumonia which cuts off horses1 tolos or koodoos4 ,great numbers also of zebras are found dead with masses of foam at the nostrils1 exactly as occurs in the common horse-sickness4 ,the production of the malignant carbuncle called kuatsi1 or selonda1 by the flesh when eaten1 is another proof of the disease of the tame and wild being identical4 ,i once found a buffalo blind from ophthalmia standing by the fountain ,otse2 when he attempted to run he lifted up his feet in the manner peculiar to blind animals4 ,the rhinoceros has often worms on the conjunction of his eyes2 but these are not the cause of the dimness of vision which will make him charge past a man who has wounded him1 if he stands perfectly still1 in the belief that his enemy is a tree4 ,it probably arises from the horn being in the line of vision1 for the variety named kuabaoba1 which has a straight horn directed downward away from that line1 possesses acute eyesight1 and is much more wary4 ,all the wild animals are subject to intestinal worms besides4 ,i have observed bunches of a tape-like thread and short worms of enlarged sizes in the rhinoceros4 ,the zebra and elephants are seldom without them1 and a thread-worm may often be seen under the peritoneum of these animals4 ,short red larvae1 which convey a stinging sensation to the hand1 are seen clustering round the orifice of the windpipe 7trachea7 of this animal at the back of the throat2 others are seen in the frontal sinus of antelopes2 and curious flat1 leech-like worms1 with black eyes1 are found in the stomachs of leches4 ,the zebra1 giraffe1 eland1 and kukama have been seen mere skeletons from decay of their teeth as well as from disease4 ,the carnivora1 too1 become diseased and mangy2 lions become lean and perish miserably by reason of the decay of the teeth4 ,when a lion becomes too old to catch game1 he frequently takes to killing goats in the villages2 a woman or child happening to go out at night falls a prey too2 and as this is his only source of subsistence now1 he continues it4 ,from this circumstance has arisen the idea that the lion1 when he has once tasted human flesh1 loves it better than any other4 ,a man-eater is invariably an old lion2 and when he overcomes his fear of man so far as to come to villages for goats1 the people remark1 ,his teeth are worn1 he will soon kill men4 ,they at once acknowledge the necessity of instant action1 and turn out to kill him4 ,when living far away from population1 or when1 as is the case in some parts1 he entertains a wholesome dread of the ,bushmen and ,bakalahari1 as soon as either disease or old age overtakes him1 he begins to catch mice and other small rodents1 and even to eat grass2 the natives1 observing undigested vegetable matter in his droppings1 follow up his trail in the certainty of finding him scarcely able to move under some tree1 and dispatch him without difficulty4 ,the grass may have been eaten as medicine1 as is observed in dogs4 ,that the fear of man often remains excessively strong in the carnivora is proved from well-authenticated cases in which the lioness1 in the vicinity of towns where the large game had been unexpectedly driven away by fire-arms1 has been known to assuage the paroxysms of hunger by devouring her own young4 ,it must be added1 that1 though the effluvium which is left by the footsteps of man is in general sufficient to induce lions to avoid a village1 there are exceptions2 so many came about our half-deserted houses at ,chonuane while we were in the act of removing to ,kolobeng1 that the natives who remained with ,mrs4 ,livingstone were terrified to stir out of doors in the evenings4 ,bitches1 also1 have been known to be guilty of the horridly unnatural act of eating their own young1 probably from the great desire for animal food1 which is experienced by the inhabitants as well4 ,when a lion is met in the daytime1 a circumstance by no means unfrequent to travelers in these parts1 if preconceived notions do not lead them to expect something very noble or majestic1 they will see merely an animal somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw1 and partaking very strongly of the canine features2 the face is not much like the usual drawings of a lion1 the nose being prolonged like a dog's2 not exactly such as our painters make it--though they might learn better at the ,zoological ,gardens--their ideas of majesty being usually shown by making their lions' faces like old women in nightcaps4 ,when encountered in the daytime1 the lion stands a second or two1 gazing1 then turns slowly round1 and walks as slowly away for a dozen paces1 looking over his shoulder2 then begins to trot1 and1 when he thinks himself out of sight1 bounds off like a greyhound4 ,by day there is not1 as a rule1 the smallest danger of lions which are not molested attacking man1 nor even on a clear moonlight night1 except when they possess the breeding storgh99 7natural affection72 this makes them brave almost any danger2 and if a man happens to cross to the windward of them1 both lion and lioness will rush at him1 in the manner of a bitch with whelps4 ,this does not often happen1 as ,i only became aware of two or three instances of it4 ,in one case a man1 passing where the wind blew from him to the animals1 was bitten before he could climb a tree2 and occasionally a man on horseback has been caught by the leg under the same circumstances4 ,so general1 however1 is the sense of security on moonlight nights1 that we seldom tied up our oxen1 but let them lie loose by the wagons2 while on a dark1 rainy night1 if a lion is in the neighborhood1 he is almost sure to venture to kill an ox4 ,his approach is always stealthy1 except when wounded2 and any appearance of a trap is enough to cause him to refrain from making the last spring4 ,this seems characteristic of the feline species2 when a goat is picketed in ,india for the purpose of enabling the huntsmen to shoot a tiger by night1 if on a plain1 he would whip off the animal so quickly by a stroke of the paw that no one could take aim2 to obviate this1 a small pit is dug1 and the goat is picketed to a stake in the bottom2 a small stone is tied in the ear of the goat1 which makes him cry the whole night4 ,when the tiger sees the appearance of a trap1 he walks round and round the pit1 and allows the hunter1 who is lying in wait1 to have a fair shot4 99 7,greek7 sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta4 ,when a lion is very hungry1 and lying in wait1 the sight of an animal may make him commence stalking it4 ,in one case a man1 while stealthily crawling towards a rhinoceros1 happened to glance behind him1 and found to his horror a lion ,,stalking ,,him2 he only escaped by springing up a tree like a cat4 ,at ,lopepe a lioness sprang on the after quarter of ,mr4 ,oswell's horse1 and when we came up to him we found the marks of the claws on the horse1 and a scratch on ,mr4 ,o4's hand4 ,the horse1 on feeling the lion on him1 sprang away1 and the rider1 caught by a wait-a-bit thorn1 was brought to the ground and rendered insensible4 ,his dogs saved him4 ,another ,english gentleman 7,captain ,codrington7 was surprised in the same way1 though not hunting the lion at the time1 but turning round he shot him dead in the neck4 ,by accident a horse belonging to ,codrington ran away1 but was stopped by the bridle catching a stump2 there he remained a prisoner two days1 and when found the whole space around was marked by the footprints of lions4 ,they had evidently been afraid to attack the haltered horse from fear that it was a trap4 ,two lions came up by night to within three yards of oxen tied to a wagon1 and a sheep tied to a tree1 and stood roaring1 but afraid to make a spring4 ,on another occasion one of our party was lying sound asleep and unconscious of danger between two natives behind a bush at ,mashue2 the fire was nearly out at their feet in consequence of all being completely tired out by the fatigues of the previous day2 a lion came up to within three yards of the fire1 and there commenced roaring instead of making a spring3 the fact of their riding-ox being tied to the bush was the only reason the lion had for not following his instinct1 and making a meal of flesh4 ,he then stood on a knoll three hundred yards distant1 and roared all night1 and continued his growling as the party moved off by daylight next morning4 ,nothing that ,i ever learned of the lion would lead me to attribute to it either the ferocious or noble character ascribed to it elsewhere4 ,it possesses none of the nobility of the ,newfoundland or ,st4 ,bernard dogs4 ,with respect to its great strength there can be no doubt4 ,the immense masses of muscle around its jaws1 shoulders1 and forearms proclaim tremendous force4 ,they would seem1 however1 to be inferior in power to those of the ,indian tiger4 ,most of those feats of strength that ,i have seen performed by lions1 such as the taking away of an ox1 were not carrying1 but dragging or trailing the carcass along the ground3 they have sprung on some occasions on to the hind-quarters of a horse1 but no one has ever seen them on the withers of a giraffe4 ,they do not mount on the hind-quarters of an eland even1 but try to tear him down with their claws4 ,messrs4 ,oswell and ,vardon once saw three lions endeavoring to drag down a buffalo1 and they were unable to do so for a time1 though he was then mortally wounded by a two-ounce ball499 99 ,this singular encounter1 in the words of an eye-witness1 happened as follows3 ,my ,south ,african ,journal is now before me1 and ,i have got hold of the account of the lion and buffalo affair2 here it is3 '#aeth ,september1 #ahdf4 ,oswell and ,i were riding this afternoon along the banks of the ,limpopo1 when a waterbuck started in front of us4 ,i dismounted1 and was following it through the jungle1 when three buffaloes got up1 and1 after going a little distance1 stood still1 and the nearest bull turned round and looked at me4 ,a ball from the two-ouncer crashed into his shoulder1 and they all three made off4 ,oswell and ,i followed as soon as ,i had reloaded1 and when we were in sight of the buffalo1 and gaining on him at every stride1 three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute2 he bellowed most lustily as he kept up a kind of running fight1 but he was1 of course1 soon overpowered and pulled down4 ,we had a fine view of the struggle1 and saw the lions on their hind legs tearing away with teeth and claws in most ferocious style4 ,we crept up within thirty yards1 and1 kneeling down1 blazed away at the lions4 ,my rifle was a single barrel1 and ,i had no spare gun4 ,one lion fell dead almost ,,on the buffalo2 he had merely time to turn toward us1 seize a bush with his teeth1 and drop dead with the stick in his jaws4 ,the second made off immediately2 and the third raised his head1 coolly looked round for a moment1 then went on tearing and biting at the carcass as hard as ever4 ,we retired a short distance to load1 then again advanced and fired4 ,the lion made off1 but a ball that he received ,,ought to have stopped him1 as it went clean through his shoulder-blade4 ,he was followed up and killed1 after having charged several times4 ,both lions were males4 ,it is not often that one ,,bags a brace of lions and a bull buffalo in about ten minutes4 ,it was an exciting adventure1 and ,i shall never forget it4' ,such1 my dear ,livingstone1 is the plain unvarnished account4 ,the buffalo had1 of course1 gone close to where the lions were lying down for the day2 and they1 seeing him lame and bleeding1 thought the opportunity too good a one to be lost4 ,ever yours1 ,frank ,vardon4 ,in general the lion seizes the animal he is attacking by the flank near the hind leg1 or by the throat below the jaw4 ,it is questionable whether he ever attempts to seize an animal by the withers4 ,the flank is the most common point of attack1 and that is the part he begins to feast on first4 ,the natives and lions are very similar in their tastes in the selection of tit-bits3 an eland may be seen disemboweled by a lion so completely that he scarcely seems cut up at all4 ,the bowels and fatty parts form a full meal for even the largest lion4 ,the jackal comes sniffing about1 and sometimes suffers for his temerity by a stroke from the lion's paw laying him dead4 ,when gorged1 the lion falls fast asleep1 and is then easily dispatched4 ,hunting a lion with dogs involves very little danger as compared with hunting the ,indian tiger1 because the dogs bring him out of cover and make him stand at bay1 giving the hunter plenty of time for a good deliberate shot4 ,where game is abundant1 there you may expect lions in proportionately large numbers4 ,they are never seen in herds1 but six or eight1 probably one family1 occasionally hunt together4 ,one is in much more danger of being run over when walking in the streets of ,london1 than he is of being devoured by lions in ,africa1 unless engaged in hunting the animal4 ,indeed1 nothing that ,i have seen or heard about lions would constitute a barrier in the way of men of ordinary courage and enterprise4 ,the same feeling which has induced the modern painter to caricature the lion1 has led the sentimentalist to consider the lion's roar the most terrific of all earthly sounds4 ,we hear of the majestic roar of the king of beasts4 ,it is1 indeed1 well calculated to inspire fear if you hear it in combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that country1 on a night so pitchy dark that every flash of the intensely vivid lightning leaves you with the impression of stone-blindness1 while the rain pours down so fast that your fire goes out1 leaving you without the protection of even a tree1 or the chance of your gun going off4 ,but when you are in a comfortable house or wagon1 the case is very different1 and you hear the roar of the lion without any awe or alarm4 ,the silly ostrich makes a noise as loud1 yet he never was feared by man4 ,to talk of the majestic roar of the lion is mere majestic twaddle4 ,on my mentioning this fact some years ago1 the assertion was doubted1 so ,i have been careful ever since to inquire the opinions of ,europeans1 who have heard both1 if they could detect any difference between the roar of a lion and that of an ostrich2 the invariable answer was1 that they could not when the animal was at any distance4 ,the natives assert that they can detect a variation between the commencement of the noise of each4 ,there is1 it must be admitted1 considerable difference between the singing noise of a lion when full1 and his deep1 gruff growl when hungry4 ,in general the lion's voice seems to come deeper from the chest than that of the ostrich1 but to this day ,i can distinguish between them with certainty only by knowing that the ostrich roars by day and the lion by night4 ,the ,african lion is of a tawny color1 like that of some mastiffs4 ,the mane in the male is large1 and gives the idea of great power4 ,in some lions the ends of the hair of the mane are black2 these go by the name of black-maned lions1 though as a whole all look of the yellow tawny color4 ,at the time of the discovery of the lake1 ,messrs4 ,oswell and ,wilson shot two specimens of another variety4 ,one was an old lion1 whose teeth were mere stumps1 and his claws worn quite blunt2 the other was full grown1 in the prime of life1 with white1 perfect teeth2 both were entirely destitute of mane4 ,the lions in the country near the lake give tongue less than those further south4 ,we scarcely ever heard them roar at all4 ,the lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides man4 ,he seldom attacks full-grown animals2 but frequently1 when a buffalo calf is caught by him1 the cow rushes to the rescue1 and a toss from her often kills him4 ,one we found was killed thus2 and on the ,leeambye another1 which died near ,sesheke1 had all the appearance of having received his death-blow from a buffalo4 ,it is questionable if a single lion ever attacks a full-grown buffalo4 ,the amount of roaring heard at night1 on occasions when a buffalo is killed1 seems to indicate there are always more than one lion engaged in the onslaught4 ,on the plain1 south of ,sebituane's ford1 a herd of buffaloes kept a number of lions from their young by the males turning their heads to the enemy4 ,the young and the cows were in the rear4 ,one toss from a bull would kill the strongest lion that ever breathed4 ,i have been informed that in one part of ,india even the tame buffaloes feel their superiority to some wild animals1 for they have been seen to chase a tiger up the hills1 bellowing as if they enjoyed the sport4 ,lions never go near any elephants except the calves1 which1 when young1 are sometimes torn by them2 every living thing retires before the lordly elephant1 yet a full-grown one would be an easier prey than the rhinoceros2 the lion rushes off at the mere sight of this latter beast4 ,in the country adjacent to ,mashue great numbers of different kinds of mice exist4 ,the ground is often so undermined with their burrows that the foot sinks in at every step4 ,little haycocks1 about two feet high1 and rather more than that in breadth1 are made by one variety of these little creatures4 ,the same thing is done in regions annually covered with snow for obvious purposes1 but it is difficult here to divine the reason of the haymaking in the climate of ,africa499 99 ',euryotis unisulcatus' 7,f4 ,cuvier71 ',mus pumelio' 7,spar471 and ',mus lehocla' 7,smith71 all possess this habit in a greater or less degree4 ,the first-named may be seen escaping danger with its young hanging to the after-part of its body4 ,wherever mice abound1 serpents may be expected1 for the one preys on the other4 ,a cat in a house is therefore a good preventive against the entrance of these noxious reptiles4 ,occasionally1 however1 notwithstanding every precaution1 they do find their way in1 but even the most venomous sorts bite only when put in bodily fear themselves1 or when trodden upon1 or when the sexes come together4 ,i once found a coil of serpents' skins1 made by a number of them twisting together in the manner described by the ,druids of old4 ,when in the country1 one feels nothing of that alarm and loathing which we may experience when sitting in a comfortable ,english room reading about them2 yet they are nasty things1 and we seem to have an instinctive feeling against them4 ,in making the door for our ,mabotsa house1 ,i happened to leave a small hole at the corner below4 ,early one morning a man came to call for some article ,i had promised4 ,i at once went to the door1 and1 it being dark1 trod on a serpent4 ,the moment ,i felt the cold scaly skin twine round a part of my leg1 my latent instinct was roused1 and ,i jumped up higher than ,i ever did before or hope to do again1 shaking the reptile off in the leap4 ,i probably trod on it near the head1 and so prevented it biting me1 but did not stop to examine4 ,some of the serpents are particularly venomous4 ,one was killed at ,kolobeng of a dark brown1 nearly black color1 #h feet #c inches long4 ,this species 7picakholu7 is so copiously supplied with poison that1 when a number of dogs attack it1 the first bitten dies almost instantaneously1 the second in about five minutes1 the third in an hour or so1 while the fourth may live several hours4 ,in a cattle-pen it produces great mischief in the same way4 ,the one we killed at ,kolobeng continued to distill clear poison from the fangs for hours after its head was cut off4 ,this was probably that which passes by the name of the spitting serpent1 which is believed to be able to eject its poison into the eyes when the wind favors its forcible expiration4 ,they all require water1 and come long distances to the ,zouga1 and other rivers and pools1 in search of it4 ,we have another dangerous serpent1 the puff adder1 and several vipers4 ,one1 named by the inhabitants ,noga-put-sane1 or serpent of a kid1 utters a cry by night exactly like the bleating of that animal4 ,i heard one at a spot where no kid could possibly have been4 ,it is supposed by the natives to lure travelers to itself by this bleating4 ,several varieties1 when alarmed1 emit a peculiar odor1 by which the people become aware of their presence in a house4 ,we have also the cobra 7',naia haje'1 ,smith7 of several colors or varieties4 ,when annoyed1 they raise their heads up about a foot from the ground1 and flatten the neck in a threatening manner1 darting out the tongue and retracting it with great velocity1 while their fixed glassy eyes glare as if in anger4 ,there are also various species of the genus ',dendrophis'1 as the ',bucephalus viridis'1 or green tree-climber4 ,they climb trees in search of birds and eggs1 and are soon discovered by all the birds in the neighborhood collecting and sounding an alarm499 ,their fangs are formed not so much for injecting poison on external objects as for keeping in any animal or bird of which they have got hold4 ,in the case of the ',dasypeltis inornatus' 7,smith71 the teeth are small1 and favorable for the passage of thin-shelled eggs without breaking4 ,the egg is taken in unbroken till it is within the gullet1 or about two inches behind the head4 ,the gular teeth placed there break the shell without spilling the contents1 as would be the case if the front teeth were large4 ,the shell is then ejected4 ,others appear to be harmless1 and even edible4 ,of the latter sort is the large python1 metse pallah1 or tari4 ,the largest specimens of this are about #ae or #bj feet in length4 ,they are perfectly harmless1 and live on small animals1 chiefly the rodentia2 occasionally the steinbuck and pallah fall victims1 and are sucked into its comparatively small mouth in boa-constrictor fashion4 ,one we shot was #aa feet #aj inches long1 and as thick as a man's leg4 ,when shot through the spine1 it was capable of lifting itself up about five feet high1 and opened its mouth in a threatening manner1 but the poor thing was more inclined to crawl away4 ,the flesh is much relished by the ,bakalahari and ,bushmen4 ,they carry away each his portion1 like logs of wood1 over their shoulders4 99 ,as this snake1 ',bucephalus ,capensis'1 in our opinion1 is not provided with a poisonous fluid to instill into wounds which these fangs may inflict1 they must consequently be intended for a purpose different to those which exist in poisonous reptiles4 ,their use seems to be to offer obstacles to the retrogression of animals1 such as birds1 etc41 while they are only partially within the mouth2 and from the circumstance of these fangs being directed backward1 and not admitting of being raised so as to form an angle with the edge of the jaw1 they are well fitted to act as powerful holders when once they penetrate the skin and soft parts of the prey which their possessors may be in the act of swallowing4 ,without such fangs escapes would be common2 with such they are rare4 ,the natives of ,south ,africa regard the ',bucephalus ,capensis' as poisonous2 but in their opinion we can not concur1 as we have not been able to discover the existence of any glands manifestly organized for the secretion of poison4 ,the fangs are inclosed in a soft1 pulpy sheath1 the inner surface of which is commonly coated with a thin glairy secretion4 ,this secretion possibly may have something acrid and irritating in its qualities1 which may1 when it enters a wound1 cause pain and even swelling1 but nothing of greater importance4 ,the ',bucephalus ,capensis' is generally found on trees1 to which it resorts for the purpose of catching birds1 upon which it delights to feed4 ,the presence of a specimen in a tree is generally soon discovered by the birds of the neighborhood1 who collect around it and fly to and fro1 uttering the most piercing cries1 until some one1 more terror-struck than the rest1 actually scans its lips1 and1 almost without resistance1 becomes a meal for its enemy4 ,during such a proceeding the snake is generally observed with its head raised about ten or twelve inches above the branch round which its body and tail are entwined1 with its mouth open and its neck inflated1 as if anxiously endeavoring to increase the terror which it would almost appear it was aware would sooner or later bring within its grasp some one of the feathered group4 ,whatever may be said in ridicule of fascination1 it is nevertheless true that birds1 and even quadrupeds1 are1 under certain circumstances1 unable to retire from the presence of certain of their enemies2 and1 what is even more extraordinary1 unable to resist the propensity to advance from a situation of actual safety into one of the most imminent danger4 ,this ,i have often seen exemplified in the case of birds and snakes2 and ,i have heard of instances equally curious1 in which antelopes and other quadrupeds have been so bewildered by the sudden appearance of crocodiles1 and by the grimaces and contortions they practiced1 as to be unable to fly or even move from the spot toward which they were approaching to seize them4--,dr4 ,andrew ,smith's ,reptilia4 ,in addition to these interesting statements of the most able naturalist from whom ,i have taken this note1 it may be added that fire exercises a fascinating effect on some kinds of toads4 ,they may be seen rushing into it in the evenings without ever starting back on feeling pain4 ,contact with the hot embers rather increases the energy with which they strive to gain the hottest parts1 and they never cease their struggles for the centre even when their juices are coagulating and their limbs stiffening in the roasting heat4 ,various insects1 also1 are thus fascinated2 but the scorpions may be seen coming away from the fire in fierce disgust1 and they are so irritated as to inflict at that time their most painful stings4 ,some of the ,bayeiye we met at ,sebituane's ,ford pretended to be unaffected by the bite of serpents1 and showed the feat of lacerating their arms with the teeth of such as are unfurnished with the poison-fangs4 ,they also swallow the poison1 by way of gaining notoriety2 but ,dr4 ,andrew ,smith put the sincerity of such persons to the test by offering them the fangs of a really poisonous variety1 and found they shrank from the experiment4 ,when we reached the ,bamangwato1 the chief1 ,sekomi1 was particularly friendly1 collected all his people to the religious services we held1 and explained his reasons for compelling some ,englishmen to pay him a horse4 ,they would not sell him any powder1 though they had plenty2 so he compelled them to give it and the horse for nothing4 ,he would not deny the extortion to me2 that would be 'boherehere' 7swindling74 ,he thus thought extortion better than swindling4 ,i could not detect any difference in the morality of the two transactions1 but ,sekomi's ideas of honesty are the lowest ,i have met with in any ,bechuana chief1 and this instance is mentioned as the only approach to demanding payment for leave to pass that ,i have met with in the south4 ,in all other cases the difficulty has been to get a chief to give us men to show the way1 and the payment has only been for guides4 ,englishmen have always very properly avoided giving that idea to the native mind which we shall hereafter find prove troublesome1 that payment ought to be made for passage through a country4 ,all the ,bechuana and ,caffre tribes south of the ,zambesi practice circumcision 7'boguera'71 but the rites observed are carefully concealed4 ,the initiated alone can approach1 but in this town ,i was once a spectator of the second part of the ceremony of the circumcision1 called sechu4 ,just at the dawn of day1 a row of boys of nearly fourteen years of age stood naked in the kotla1 each having a pair of sandals as a shield on his hands4 ,facing them stood the men of the town in a similar state of nudity1 all armed with long thin wands1 of a tough1 strong1 supple bush called moretloa 7',grewia flava'71 and engaged in a dance named koha1 in which questions are put to the boys1 as ,will you guard the chief well8 ,will you herd the cattle well8 and1 while the latter give an affirmative response1 the men rush forward to them1 and each aims a full-weight blow at the back of one of the boys4 ,shielding himself with the sandals above his head1 he causes the supple wand to descend and bend into his back1 and every stroke inflicted thus makes the blood squirt out of a wound a foot or eighteen inches long4 ,at the end of the dance1 the boys' backs are seamed with wounds and weals1 the scars of which remain through life4 ,this is intended to harden the young soldiers1 and prepare them for the rank of men4 ,after this ceremony1 and after killing a rhinoceros1 they may marry a wife4 ,in the koha the same respect is shown to age as in many other of their customs4 ,a younger man1 rushing from the ranks to exercise his wand on the backs of the youths1 may be himself the object of chastisement by the older1 and1 on the occasion referred to1 ,sekomi received a severe cut on the leg from one of his gray-haired people4 ,on my joking with some of the young men on their want of courage1 notwithstanding all the beatings of which they bore marks1 and hinting that our soldiers were brave without suffering so much1 one rose up and said1 ,ask him if1 when he and ,i were compelled by a lion to stop and make a fire1 ,i did not lie down and sleep as well as himself4 ,in other parts a challenge to try a race would have been given1 and you may frequently see grown men adopting that means of testing superiority1 like so many children4 ,the sechu is practiced by three tribes only4 ,boguera is observed by all the ,bechuanas and ,caffres1 but not by the negro tribes beyond #bj ,deg4 south4 ,the boguera is a civil rather than a religious rite4 ,all the boys of an age between ten and fourteen or fifteen are selected to be the companions for life of one of the sons of the chief4 ,they are taken out to some retired spot in the forest1 and huts are erected for their accommodation2 the old men go out and teach them to dance1 initiating them1 at the same time1 into all the mysteries of ,african politics and government4 ,each one is expected to compose an oration in praise of himself1 called a leina or name1 and to be able to repeat it with sufficient fluency4 ,a good deal of beating is required to bring them up to the required excellency in different matters1 so that1 when they return from the close seclusion in which they are kept1 they have generally a number of scars to show on their backs4 ,these bands or regiments1 named mepato in the plural and mopato in the singular1 receive particular appellations2 as1 the ,matsatsi--the suns2 the ,mabusa--the rulers2 equivalent to our ,coldstreams or ,enniskillens2 and1 though living in different parts of the town1 they turn out at the call1 and act under the chief's son as their commander4 ,they recognize a sort of equality and partial communism ever afterward1 and address each other by the title of molekane or comrade4 ,in cases of offence against their rules1 as eating alone when any of their comrades are within call1 or in cases of cowardice or dereliction of duty1 they may strike one another1 or any member of a younger mopato1 but never any one of an older band2 and when three or four companies have been made1 the oldest no longer takes the field in time of war1 but remains as a guard over the women and children4 ,when a fugitive comes to a tribe1 he is directed to the mopato analogous to that to which in his own tribe he belongs1 and does duty as a member4 ,no one of the natives knows how old he is4 ,if asked his age1 he answers by putting another question1 ,does a man remember when he was born8 ,age is reckoned by the number of mepato they have seen pass through the formulae of admission4 ,when they see four or five mepato younger than themselves1 they are no longer obliged to bear arms4 ,the oldest individual ,i ever met boasted he had seen eleven sets of boys submit to the boguera4 ,supposing him to have been fifteen when he saw his own1 and fresh bands were added every six or seven years1 he must have been about forty when he saw the fifth1 and may have attained seventy-five or eighty years1 which is no great age2 but it seemed so to them1 for he had now doubled the age for superannuation among them4 ,it is an ingenious plan for attaching the members of the tribe to the chief's family1 and for imparting a discipline which renders the tribe easy of command4 ,on their return to the town from attendance on the ceremonies of initiation1 a prize is given to the lad who can run fastest1 the article being placed where all may see the winner run up to snatch it4 ,they are then considered men 7banona1 viri71 and can sit among the elders in the kotla4 ,formerly they were only boys 7basimane1 pueri74 ,the first missionaries set their faces against the boguera1 on account of its connection with heathenism1 and the fact that the youths learned much evil1 and became disobedient to their parents4 ,from the general success of these men1 it is perhaps better that younger missionaries should tread in their footsteps2 for so much evil may result from breaking down the authority on which1 to those who can not read1 the whole system of our influence appears to rest1 that innovators ought to be made to propose their new measures as the ,locrians did new laws--with ropes around their necks4 ,probably the boguera was only a sanitary and political measure2 and there being no continuous chain of tribes practicing the rite between the ,arabs and the ,bechuanas1 or ,caffres1 and as it is not a religious ceremony1 it can scarcely be traced1 as is often done1 to a ,mohammedan source4 ,a somewhat analogous ceremony 7boyale7 takes place for young women1 and the protegees appear abroad drilled under the surveillance of an old lady to the carrying of water4 ,they are clad during the whole time in a dress composed of ropes made of alternate pumpkin-seeds and bits of reed strung together1 and wound round the body in a figure-of-eight fashion4 ,they are inured in this way to bear fatigue1 and carry large pots of water under the guidance of the stern old hag4 ,they have often scars from bits of burning charcoal having been applied to the forearm1 which must have been done to test their power of bearing pain4 ,the ,bamangwato hills are part of the range called ,bakaa4 ,the ,bakaa tribe1 however1 removed to ,kolobeng1 and is now joined to that of ,sechele4 ,the range stands about #gjj or #hjj feet above the plains1 and is composed of great masses of black basalt4 ,it is probably part of the latest series of volcanic rocks in ,south ,africa4 ,at the eastern end these hills have curious fungoid or cup-shaped hollows1 of a size which suggests the idea of craters4 ,within these are masses of the rock crystallized in the columnar form of this formation4 ,the tops of the columns are quite distinct1 of the hexagonal form1 like the bottom of the cells of a honeycomb1 but they are not parted from each other as in the ,cave of ,fingal4 ,in many parts the lava-streams may be recognized1 for there the rock is rent and split in every direction1 but no soil is yet found in the interstices4 ,when we were sitting in the evening1 after a hot day1 it was quite common to hear these masses of basalt split and fall among each other with the peculiar ringing sound which makes people believe that this rock contains much iron4 ,several large masses1 in splitting thus by the cold acting suddenly on parts expanded by the heat of the day1 have slipped down the sides of the hills1 and1 impinging against each other1 have formed cavities in which the ,bakaa took refuge against their enemies4 ,the numerous chinks and crannies left by these huge fragments made it quite impossible for their enemies to smoke them out1 as was done by the ,boers to the people of ,mankopane4 ,this mass of basalt1 about six miles long1 has tilted up the rocks on both the east and west2 these upheaved rocks are the ancient silurian schists which formed the bottom of the great primaeval valley1 and1 like all the recent volcanic rocks of this country1 have a hot fountain in their vicinity1 namely1 that of ,serinane4 ,in passing through these hills on our way north we enter a pass named ,manakalongwe1 or ,unicorn's ,pass4 ,the unicorn here is a large edible caterpillar1 with an erect1 horn-like tail4 ,the pass was also called ,porapora 7or gurgling of water71 from a stream having run through it4 ,the scene must have been very different in former times from what it is now4 ,this is part of the ,river ,mahalapi1 which so-called river scarcely merits the name1 any more than the meadows of ,edinburgh deserve the title of ,north ,loch4 ,these hills are the last we shall see for months4 ,the country beyond consisted of large patches of trap-covered tufa1 having little soil or vegetation except tufts of grass and wait-a-bit thorns1 in the midst of extensive sandy1 grass-covered plains4 ,these yellow-colored1 grassy plains1 with moretloa and mahatla bushes1 form quite a characteristic feature of the country4 ,the yellow or dun-color prevails during a great part of the year4 ,the ,bakwain hills are an exception to the usual flat surface1 for they are covered with green trees to their tops1 and the valleys are often of the most lovely green4 ,the trees are larger too1 and even the plains of the ,bakwain country contain trees instead of bushes4 ,if you look north from the hills we are now leaving1 the country partakes of this latter character4 ,it appears as if it were a flat covered with a forest of ordinary-sized trees from #bj to #cj feet high1 but when you travel over it they are not so closely planted but that a wagon with care may be guided among them4 ,the grass grows in tufts of the size of one's hat1 with bare soft sand between4 ,nowhere here have we an approach to ,english lawns1 or the pleasing appearance of ,english greensward4 ,in no part of this country could ,european grain be cultivated without irrigation4 ,the natives all cultivate the dourrha or holcus sorghum1 maize1 pumpkins1 melons1 cucumbers1 and different kinds of beans2 and they are entirely dependent for the growth of these on rains4 ,their instrument of culture is the hoe1 and the chief labor falls on the female portion of the community4 ,in this respect the ,bechuanas closely resemble the ,caffres4 ,the men engage in hunting1 milk the cows1 and have the entire control of the cattle2 they prepare the skins1 make the clothing1 and in many respects may be considered a nation of tailors4 ,when at ,sekomi's we generally have heard his praises sounded by a man who rises at break of day1 and utters at the top of his voice the oration which that ruler is said to have composed at his boguera4 ,this repetition of his leina1 or oration1 is so pleasing to a chief1 that he generally sends a handsome present to the man who does it4 ,,january #bh,,th4 ,passing on to ,letloche1 about twenty miles beyond the ,bamangwato1 we found a fine supply of water4 ,this is a point of so much interest in that country that the first question we ask of passers by is1 ,have you had water8 the first inquiry a native puts to a fellow-countryman is1 ,where is the rain8 and1 though they are by no means an untruthful nation1 the answer generally is1 ,i don't know--there is none--we are killed with hunger and by the sun4 ,if news is asked for1 they commence with1 ,there is no news3 ,i heard some lies only1 and then tell all they know4 ,this spot was ,mr4 ,gordon ,cumming's furthest station north4 ,our house at ,kolobeng having been quite in the hunting-country1 rhinoceros and buffaloes several times rushed past1 and ,i was able to shoot the latter twice from our own door4 ,we were favored by visits from this famous hunter during each of the five years of his warfare with wild animals4 ,many ,english gentlemen following the same pursuits paid their guides and assistants so punctually that in making arrangements for them we had to be careful that four did not go where two only were wanted3 they knew so well that an ,englishman would pay that they depended implicitly on his word of honor1 and not only would they go and hunt for five or six months in the north1 enduring all the hardships of that trying mode of life1 with little else but meat of game to subsist on1 but they willingly went seven hundred or eight hundred miles to ,graham's ,town1 receiving for wages only a musket worth fifteen shillings4 ,no one ever deceived them except one man2 and as ,i believed that he was afflicted with a slight degree of the insanity of greediness1 ,i upheld the honor of the ,english name by paying his debts4 ,as the guides of ,mr4 ,cumming were furnished through my influence1 and usually got some strict charges as to their behavior before parting1 looking upon me in the light of a father1 they always came to give me an account of their service1 and told most of those hunting adventures which have since been given to the world1 before we had the pleasure of hearing our friend relate them himself by our own fireside4 ,i had thus a tolerably good opportunity of testing their accuracy1 and ,i have no hesitation in saying that for those who love that sort of thing ,mr4 ,cumming's book conveys a truthful idea of ,south ,african hunting4 ,some things in it require explanation1 but the numbers of animals said to have been met with and killed are by no means improbable1 considering the amount of large game then in the country4 ,two other gentlemen hunting in the same region destroyed in one season no fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses alone4 ,sportsmen1 however1 would not now find an equal number1 for as guns are introduced among the tribes all these fine animals melt away like snow in spring4 ,in the more remote districts1 where fire-arms have not yet been introduced1 with the single exception of the rhinoceros1 the game is to be found in numbers much greater than ,mr4 ,cumming ever saw4 ,the tsetse is1 however1 an insuperable barrier to hunting with horses there1 and ,europeans can do nothing on foot4 ,the step of the elephant when charging the hunter1 though apparently not quick1 is so long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a canter4 ,a young sportsman1 no matter how great among pheasants1 foxes1 and hounds1 would do well to pause before resolving to brave fever for the excitement of risking such a terrific charge2 the scream or trumpeting of this enormous brute when infuriated is more like what the shriek of a ,french steam-whistle would be to a man standing on the dangerous part of a rail-road than any other earthly sound3 a horse unused to it will sometimes stand shivering instead of taking his rider out of danger4 ,it has happened often that the poor animal's legs do their duty so badly that he falls and causes his rider to be trodden into a mummy2 or1 losing his presence of mind1 the rider may allow the horse to dash under a tree and crack his cranium against a branch4 ,as one charge from an elephant has made embryo ,nimrods bid a final adieu to the chase1 incipient ,gordon ,cummings might try their nerves by standing on railways till the engines were within a few yards of them4 ,hunting elephants on foot would be not less dangerous199 unless the ,ceylon mode of killing them by one shot could be followed3 it has never been tried in ,africa4 99 ,since writing the above statement1 it has received confirmation in the reported death of ,mr4 ,wahlberg while hunting elephants on foot at ,lake ,ngami4 ,advancing to some wells beyond ,letloche1 at a spot named ,kanne1 we found them carefully hedged round by the people of a ,bakalahari village situated near the spot4 ,we had then sixty miles of country in front without water1 and very distressing for the oxen1 as it is generally deep soft sand4 ,there is one sucking-place1 around which were congregated great numbers of ,bushwomen with their egg-shells and reeds4 ,mathuluane now contained no water1 and ,motlatsa only a small supply1 so we sent the oxen across the country to the deep well ,nkauane1 and half were lost on the way4 ,when found at last they had been five whole days without water4 ,very large numbers of elands were met with as usual1 though they seldom can get a sip of drink4 ,many of the plains here have large expanses of grass without trees1 but you seldom see a treeless horizon4 ,the ostrich is generally seen quietly feeding on some spot where no one can approach him without being detected by his wary eye4 ,as the wagon moves along far to the windward he thinks it is intending to circumvent him1 so he rushes up a mile or so from the leeward1 and so near to the front oxen that one sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird4 ,when he begins to run all the game in sight follow his example4 ,i have seen this folly taken advantage of when he was feeding quietly in a valley open at both ends4 ,a number of men would commence running1 as if to cut off his retreat from the end through which the wind came2 and although he had the whole country hundreds of miles before him by going to the other end1 on he madly rushed to get past the men1 and so was speared4 ,he never swerves from the course he once adopts1 but only increases his speed4 ,when the ostrich is feeding his pace is from twenty to twenty-two inches2 when walking1 but not feeding1 it is twenty-six inches2 and when terrified1 as in the case noticed1 it is from eleven and a half to thirteen and even fourteen feet in length4 ,only in one case was ,i at all satisfied of being able to count the rate of speed by a stop-watch1 and1 if ,i am not mistaken1 there were thirty in ten seconds2 generally one's eye can no more follow the legs than it can the spokes of a carriage-wheel in rapid motion4 ,if we take the above number1 and twelve feet stride as the average pace1 we have a speed of twenty-six miles an hour4 ,it can not be very much above that1 and is therefore slower than a railway locomotive4 ,they are sometimes shot by the horseman making a cross cut to their undeviating course1 but few ,englishmen ever succeed in killing them4 ,the ostrich begins to lay her eggs before she has fixed on a spot for a nest1 which is only a hollow a few inches deep in the sand1 and about a yard in diameter4 ,solitary eggs1 named by the ,bechuanas lesetla1 are thus found lying forsaken all over the country1 and become a prey to the jackal4 ,she seems averse to risking a spot for a nest1 and often lays her eggs in that of another ostrich1 so that as many as forty-five have been found in one nest4 ,some eggs contain small concretions of the matter which forms the shell1 as occurs also in the egg of the common fowl3 this has given rise to the idea of stones in the eggs4 ,both male and female assist in the incubations2 but the numbers of females being always greatest1 it is probable that cases occur in which the females have the entire charge4 ,several eggs lie out of the nest1 and are thought to be intended as food for the first of the newly-hatched brood till the rest come out and enable the whole to start in quest of food4 ,i have several times seen newly-hatched young in charge of the cock1 who made a very good attempt at appearing lame in the plover fashion1 in order to draw off the attention of pursuers4 ,the young squat down and remain immovable when too small to run far1 but attain a wonderful degree of speed when about the size of common fowls4 ,it can not be asserted that ostriches are polygamous1 though they often appear to be so4 ,when caught they are easily tamed1 but are of no use in their domesticated state4 ,the egg is possessed of very great vital power4 ,one kept in a room during more than three months1 in a temperature about #fj ,deg41 when broken was found to have a partially-developed live chick in it4 ,the ,bushmen carefully avoid touching the eggs1 or leaving marks of human feet near them1 when they find a nest4 ,they go up the wind to the spot1 and with a long stick remove some of them occasionally1 and1 by preventing any suspicion1 keep the hen laying on for months1 as we do with fowls4 ,the eggs have a strong1 disagreeable flavor1 which only the keen appetite of the ,desert can reconcile one to4 ,the ,hottentots use their trowsers to carry home the twenty or twenty-five eggs usually found in a nest2 and it has happened that an ,englishman1 intending to imitate this knowing dodge1 comes to the wagons with blistered legs1 and1 after great toil1 finds all the eggs uneatable1 from having been some time sat upon4 ,our countrymen invariably do best when they continue to think1 speak1 and act in their own proper character4 ,the food of the ostrich consists of pods and seeds of different kinds of leguminous plants1 with leaves of various plants2 and1 as these are often hard and dry1 he picks up a great quantity of pebbles1 many of which are as large as marbles4 ,he picks up also some small bulbs1 and occasionally a wild melon to afford moisture1 for one was found with a melon which had choked him by sticking in his throat4 ,it requires the utmost address of the ,bushmen1 crawling for miles on their stomachs1 to stalk them successfully2 yet the quantity of feathers collected annually shows that the numbers slain must be considerable1 as each bird has only a few in the wings and tail4 ,the male bird is of a jet black glossy color1 with the single exception of the white feathers1 which are objects of trade4 ,nothing can be finer than the adaptation of those flossy feathers for the climate of the ,kalahari1 where these birds abound2 for they afford a perfect shade to the body1 with free ventilation beneath them4 ,the hen ostrich is of a dark brownish-gray color1 and so are the half-grown cocks4 ,the organs of vision in this bird are placed so high that he can detect an enemy at a great distance1 but the lion sometimes kills him4 ,the flesh is white and coarse1 though1 when in good condition1 it resembles in some degree that of a tough turkey4 ,it seeks safety in flight2 but when pursued by dogs it may be seen to turn upon them and inflict a kick1 which is vigorously applied1 and sometimes breaks the dog's back4 ,chapter #h4 ,effects of ,missionary ,efforts--,belief in the ,deity--,ideas of the ,bakwains on ,religion--,departure from their ,country--,salt-pans--,sour ,curd--,nchokotsa--,bitter ,waters--,thirst suffered by the wild ,animals--,wanton ,cruelty in ,hunting--,ntwetwe--,mowana-trees--,thei r extraordinary ,vitality--,the ,mopane-tree--,the ,morala--,the ,bushmen--,their ,superstitions--,elephant-hunting--,supe riority of civilized over barbarous ,sportsmen--,the ,chief ,kaisa--,his ,fear of ,responsibility--,beauty of the ,country at ,unku--,the ,mohonono ,bush--,severe ,labor in cutting our ,way--,party seized with ,fever--,escape of our ,cattle--,bakwain ,mode of recapturing them--,vagaries of sick ,servants-- ,discovery of grape-bearing ,vines--,an ,ant-eater--,difficulty of passing through the ,forest--,sickness of my ,companion--,the ,bushmen--,their ,mode of destroying ,lions--,poisons--,the solitary ,hill--,a picturesque ,valley--,beauty of the ,country--,arrive at the ,sanshureh ,river--,the flooded ,prairies--,a pontooning ,expedition--,a night ,bivouac--,the ,chobe-- ,arrive at the ,village of ,moremi--,surprise of the ,makololo at our sudden ,appearance--,cross the ,chobe on our way to ,linyanti4 ,the ,bakalahari1 who live at ,motlatsa wells1 have always been very friendly to us1 and listen attentively to instruction conveyed to them in their own tongue4 ,it is1 however1 difficult to give an idea to a ,european of the little effect teaching produces1 because no one can realize the degradation to which their minds have been sunk by centuries of barbarism and hard struggling for the necessaries of life3 like most others1 they listen with respect and attention1 but1 when we kneel down and address an unseen ,being1 the position and the act often appear to them so ridiculous that they can not refrain from bursting into uncontrollable laughter4 ,after a few services they get over this tendency4 ,i was once present when a missionary attempted to sing among a wild heathen tribe of ,bechuanas1 who had no music in their composition2 the effect on the risible faculties of the audience was such that the tears actually ran down their cheeks4 ,nearly all their thoughts are directed to the supply of their bodily wants1 and this has been the case with the race for ages4 ,if asked1 then1 what effect the preaching of the ,gospel has at the commencement on such individuals1 ,i am unable to tell1 except that some have confessed long afterward that they then first began to pray in secret4 ,of the effects of a long-continued course of instruction there can be no reasonable doubt1 as mere nominal belief has never been considered sufficient proof of conversion by any body of missionaries2 and1 after the change which has been brought about by this agency1 we have good reason to hope well for the future--those ,i have myself witnessed behaving in the manner described1 when kindly treated in sickness often utter imploring words to ,jesus1 and ,i believe sometimes really do pray to him in their afflictions4 ,as that great ,redeemer of the guilty seeks to save all he can1 we may hope that they find mercy through ,his blood1 though little able to appreciate the sacrifice ,he made4 ,the indirect and scarcely appreciable blessings of ,christian missionaries going about doing good are thus probably not so despicable as some might imagine2 there is no necessity for beginning to tell even the most degraded of these people of the existence of a ,god or of a future state1 the facts being universally admitted4 ,every thing that can not be accounted for by common causes is ascribed to the ,deity1 as creation1 sudden death1 etc4 ,how curiously ,god made these things6 is a common expression2 as is also1 ,he was not killed by disease1 he was killed by ,god4 ,and1 when speaking of the departed--though there is naught in the physical appearance of the dead to justify the expression--they say1 ,he has gone to the gods1 the phrase being identical with abiit ad plures4 ,on questioning intelligent men among the ,bakwains as to their former knowledge of good and evil1 of ,god and the future state1 they have scouted the idea of any of them ever having been without a tolerably clear conception on all these subjects4 ,respecting their sense of right and wrong1 they profess that nothing we indicate as sin ever appeared to them as otherwise1 except the statement that it was wrong to have more wives than one2 and they declare that they spoke in the same way of the direct influence exercised by ,god in giving rain in answer to prayers of the rain-makers1 and in granting deliverances in times of danger1 as they do now1 before they ever heard of white men4 ,the want1 however1 of any form of public worship1 or of idols1 or of formal prayers or sacrifice1 make both ,caffres and ,bechuanas appear as among the most godless races of mortals known any where4 ,but1 though they all possess a distinct knowledge of a deity and of a future state1 they show so little reverence1 and feel so little connection with either1 that it is not surprising that some have supposed them entirely ignorant on the subject4 ,at ,lotlakani we met an old ,bushman who at first seemed to have no conception of morality whatever2 when his heart was warmed by our presents of meat1 he sat by the fire relating his early adventures3 among these was killing five other ,bushmen4 ,two1 said he1 counting on his fingers1 were females1 one a male1 and the other two calves4 ,what a villain you are1 to boast of killing women and children of your own nation6 what will ,god say when you appear before him8 ,he will say1 replied he1 that ,i was a very clever fellow4 ,this man now appeared to me as without any conscience1 and1 of course1 responsibility2 but1 on trying to enlighten him by further conversation1 ,i discovered that1 though he was employing the word that is used among the ,bakwains when speaking of the ,deity1 he had only the idea of a chief1 and was all the while referring to ,sekomi1 while his victims were a party of rebel ,bushmen against whom he had been sent4 ,if ,i had known the name of ,god in the ,bushman tongue the mistake could scarcely have occurred4 ,it must1 however1 be recollected1 while reflecting on the degradation of the natives of ,south ,africa1 that the farther north1 the more distinct do the native ideas on religious subjects become1 and ,i have not had any intercourse with either ,caffres or ,bushmen in their own tongues4 ,leaving ,motlatsa on the #hth of ,february1 #ahec1 we passed down the ,mokoko1 which1 in the memory of persons now living1 was a flowing stream4 ,we ourselves once saw a heavy thunder-shower make it assume its ancient appearance of running to the north4 ,between ,lotlakani and ,nchokotsa we passed the small well named ,orapa2 and another called ,thutsa lay a little to our right--its water is salt and purgative2 the salt-pan ,chuantsa1 having a cake of salt one inch and a half in thickness1 is about ten miles to the northeast of ,orapa4 ,this deposit contains a bitter salt in addition1 probably the nitrate of lime2 the natives1 in order to render it palatable and wholesome1 mix the salt with the juice of a gummy plant1 then place it in the sand and bake it by making a fire over it2 the lime then becomes insoluble and tasteless4 ,the ,bamangwato keep large flocks of sheep and goats at various spots on this side of the ,desert4 ,they thrive wonderfully well wherever salt and bushes are to be found4 ,the milk of goats does not coagulate with facility1 like that of cows1 on account of its richness2 but the natives have discovered that the infusion of the fruit of a solanaceous plant1 ,toluane1 quickly produces the effect4 ,the ,bechuanas put their milk into sacks made of untanned hide1 with the hair taken off4 ,hung in the sun1 it soon coagulates2 the whey is then drawn off by a plug at the bottom1 and fresh milk added1 until the sack is full of a thick1 sour curd1 which1 when one becomes used to it1 is delicious4 ,the rich mix this in the porridge into which they convert their meal1 and1 as it is thus rendered nutritious and strength-giving1 an expression of scorn is sometimes heard respecting the poor or weak1 to the effect that they are water-porridge men4 ,it occupies the place of our roast beef4 ,at ,nchokotsa1 the rainy season having this year been delayed beyond the usual time1 we found during the day the thermometer stand at #if ,deg4 in the coolest possible shade4 ,this height at ,kolobeng always portended rain at hand4 ,at ,kuruman1 when it rises above #hd ,deg41 the same phenomenon may be considered near2 while farther north it rises above #ajj ,deg4 before the cooling influence of the evaporation from rain may be expected4 ,here the bulb of the thermometer1 placed two inches beneath the soil1 stood at #abh ,deg4 ,all around ,nchokotsa the country looked parched1 and the glare from the white efflorescence which covers the extensive pans on all sides was most distressing to the eyes4 ,the water of ,nchokotsa was bitter1 and presented indications not to be mistaken of having passed through animal systems before4 ,all these waters contain nitrates1 which stimulate the kidneys and increase the thirst4 ,the fresh additions of water required in cooking meat1 each imparting its own portion of salt1 make one grumble at the cook for putting too much seasoning in1 while in fact he has put in none at all1 except that contained in the water4 ,of bitter1 bad1 disgusting waters ,i have drunk not a few nauseous draughts2 you may try alum1 vitriol1 boiling1 etc41 etc41 to convince yourself that you are not more stupid than travelers you will meet at home1 but the ammonia and other salts are there still2 and the only remedy is to get away as quickly as possible to the north4 ,we dug out several wells2 and as we had on each occasion to wait till the water flowed in again1 and then allow our cattle to feed a day or two and slake their thirst thoroughly1 as far as that could be done1 before starting1 our progress was but slow4 ,at ,koobe there was such a mass of mud in the pond1 worked up by the wallowing rhinoceros to the consistency of mortar1 that only by great labor could we get a space cleared at one side for the water to ooze through and collect in for the oxen4 ,should the rhinoceros come back1 a single roll in the great mass we had thrown on one side would have rendered all our labor vain4 ,it was therefore necessary for us to guard the spot at night4 ,on these great flats all around we saw in the white sultry glare herds of zebras1 gnus1 and occasionally buffaloes1 standing for days1 looking wistfully toward the wells for a share of the nasty water4 ,it is mere wanton cruelty to take advantage of the necessities of these poor animals1 and shoot them down one after another1 without intending to make the smallest use of either the flesh1 skins1 or horns4 ,in shooting by night1 animals are more frequently wounded than killed2 the flowing life-stream increases the thirst1 so that in desperation they come slowly up to drink in spite of the danger1 ,i must drink1 though ,i die4 ,the ostrich1 even when not wounded1 can not1 with all his wariness1 resist the excessive desire to slake his burning thirst4 ,it is ,bushman-like practice to take advantage of its piteous necessities1 for most of the feathers they obtain are procured in this way2 but they eat the flesh1 and are so far justifiable4 ,i could not order my men to do what ,i would not do myself1 but1 though ,i tried to justify myself on the plea of necessity1 ,i could not adopt this mode of hunting4 ,if your object is to secure the best specimens for a museum1 it may be allowable1 and even deserving of commendation1 as evincing a desire to kill only those really wanted2 but if1 as has been practiced by some ,griquas and others who came into the country after ,mr4 ,cumming1 and fired away indiscriminately1 great numbers of animals are wounded and allowed to perish miserably1 or are killed on the spot and left to be preyed on by vultures and hyenas1 and all for the sole purpose of making a bag1 then ,i take it to be evident that such sportsmen are pretty far gone in the hunting form of insanity4 ,my men shot a black rhinoceros in this way1 and ,i felt glad to get away from the only place in which ,i ever had any share in night-hunting4 ,we passed over the immense pan ,ntwetwe1 on which the latitude could be taken as at sea4 ,great tracts of this part of the country are of calcareous tufa1 with only a thin coating of soil2 numbers of baobab and mopane trees abound all over this hard1 smooth surface4 ,about two miles beyond the northern bank of the pan we unyoked under a fine specimen of the baobab1 here called1 in the language of ,bechuanas1 ,mowana2 it consisted of six branches united into one trunk4 ,at three feet from the ground it was eighty-five feet in circumference4 ,these mowana-trees are the most wonderful examples of vitality in the country2 it was therefore with surprise that we came upon a dead one at ,tlomtla1 a few miles beyond this spot4 ,it is the same as those which ,adamson and others believed1 from specimens seen in ,western ,africa1 to have been alive before the flood4 ,arguing with a peculiar mental idiosyncracy resembling color-blindness1 common among the ,french of the time1 these savans came to the conclusion that therefore there never was any flood at all4 ,i would back a true mowana against a dozen floods1 provided you do not boil it in hot sea-water2 but ,i can not believe that any of those now alive had a chance of being subjected to the experiment of even the ,noachian deluge4 ,the natives make a strong cord from the fibres contained in the pounded bark4 ,the whole of the trunk1 as high as they can reach1 is consequently often quite denuded of its covering1 which in the case of almost any other tree would cause its death1 but this has no effect on the mowana except to make it throw out a new bark1 which is done in the way of granulation4 ,this stripping of the bark is repeated frequently1 so that it is common to see the lower five or six feet an inch or two less in diameter than the parts above2 even portions of the bark which have broken in the process of being taken off1 but remain separated from the parts below1 though still connected with the tree above1 continue to grow1 and resemble closely marks made in the necks of the cattle of the island of ,mull and of ,caffre oxen1 where a piece of skin is detached and allowed to hang down4 ,no external injury1 not even a fire1 can destroy this tree from without2 nor can any injury be done from within1 as it is quite common to find it hollow2 and ,i have seen one in which twenty or thirty men could lie down and sleep as in a hut4 ,nor does cutting down exterminate it1 for ,i saw instances in ,angola in which it continued to grow in length after it was lying on the ground4 ,those trees called exogenous grow by means of successive layers on the outside4 ,the inside may be dead1 or even removed altogether1 without affecting the life of the tree4 ,this is the case with most of the trees of our climate4 ,the other class is called endogenous1 and increases by layers applied to the inside2 and when the hollow there is full1 the growth is stopped--the tree must die4 ,any injury is felt most severely by the first class on the bark2 by the second on the inside2 while the inside of the exogenous may be removed1 and the outside of the endogenous may be cut1 without stopping the growth in the least4 ,the mowana possesses the powers of both4 ,the reason is that each of the laminae possesses its own independent vitality2 in fact1 the baobab is rather a gigantic bulb run up to seed than a tree4 ,each of eighty-four concentric rings had1 in the case mentioned1 grown an inch after the tree had been blown over4 ,the roots1 which may often be observed extending along the surface of the ground forty or fifty yards from the trunk1 also retain their vitality after the tree is laid low2 and the ,portuguese now know that the best way to treat them is to let them alone1 for they occupy much more room when cut down than when growing4 ,the wood is so spongy and soft that an axe can be struck in so far with a good blow that there is great difficulty in pulling it out again4 ,in the dead mowana mentioned the concentric rings were well seen4 ,the average for a foot at three different places was eighty-one and a half of these rings4 ,each of the laminae can be seen to be composed of two1 three1 or four layers of ligneous tubes2 but supposing each ring the growth of one year1 and the semidiameter of a mowana of one hundred feet in circumference about seventeen feet1 if the central point were in the centre of the tree1 then its age would lack some centuries of being as old as the ,christian era 7#adjj74 ,though it possesses amazing vitality1 it is difficult to believe that this great baby-looking bulb or tree is as old as the ,pyramids4 ,the mopane-tree 7'bauhinia'7 is remarkable for the little shade its leaves afford4 ,they fold together and stand nearly perpendicular during the heat of the day1 so that only the shadow of their edges comes to the ground4 ,on these leaves the small larvae of a winged insect appear covered over with a sweet1 gummy substance4 ,the people collect this in great quantities1 and use it as food299 and the lopane--large caterpillars three inches long1 which feed on the leaves1 and are seen strung together--share the same fate4 99 ,i am favored with ,mr4 ,westwood's remarks on this insect as follows3 ,taylor ,institution1 ,oxford1 ,july #i1 #aheg4 ,the insect 7and its secretion7 on the leaves of the bauhinia1 and which is eaten by the ,africans1 proves to be a species of ,psylla1 a genus of small1 very active ,homoptera1 of which we have one very common species in the box2 but our species1 ,psylla buxi1 emits its secretion in the shape of very long1 white1 cotton-like filaments4 ,but there is a species in ,new ,holland1 found on the leaves of the ,eucalyptus1 which emits a secretion very similar to that of ,dr4 ,livingstone's species4 ,this ,australian secretion 7and its insect originator7 is known by the name of wo-me-la1 and1 like ,dr4 ,livingstone's1 it is scraped off the leaves and eaten by the aborigines as a saccharine dainty4 ,the insects found beneath the secretion1 brought home by ,dr4 ,livingstone1 are in the pupa state1 being flattened1 with large scales at the sides of the body1 inclosing the future wings of the insect4 ,the body is pale yellowish-colored1 with dark-brown spots4 ,it will be impossible to describe the species technically until we receive the perfect insect4 ,the secretion itself is flat and circular1 apparently deposited in concentric rings1 gradually increasing in size till the patches are about a quarter or a third of an inch in diameter4 ,jno4 ,o4 ,westwood4 ,in passing along we see every where the power of vegetation in breaking up the outer crust of tufa4 ,a mopane-tree1 growing in a small chink1 as it increases in size rends and lifts up large fragments of the rock all around it1 subjecting them to the disintegrating influence of the atmosphere4 ,the wood is hard1 and of a fine red color1 and is named iron-wood by the ,portuguese4 ,the inhabitants1 observing that the mopane is more frequently struck by lightning than other trees1 caution travelers never to seek its shade when a thunder-storm is near--,lightning hates it2 while another tree1 the ,morala1 which has three spines opposite each other on the branches1 and has never been known to be touched by lightning1 is esteemed1 even as far as ,angola1 a protection against the electric fluid4 ,branches of it may be seen placed on the houses of the ,portuguese for the same purpose4 ,the natives1 moreover1 believe that a man is thoroughly protected from an enraged elephant if he can get into the shade of this tree4 ,there may not be much in this1 but there is frequently some foundation of truth in their observations4 ,at ,rapesh we came among our old friends the ,bushmen1 under ,horoye4 ,this man1 ,horoye1 a good specimen of that tribe1 and his son ,mokantsa and others1 were at least six feet high1 and of a darker color than the ,bushmen of the south4 ,they have always plenty of food and water2 and as they frequent the ,zouga as often as the game in company with which they live1 their life is very different from that of the inhabitants of the thirsty plains of the ,kalahari4 ,the animal they refrain from eating is the goat1 which fact1 taken in connection with the superstitious dread which exists in every tribe toward a particular animal1 is significant of their feelings to the only animals they could have domesticated in their desert home4 ,they are a merry laughing set1 and do not tell lies wantonly4 ,they have in their superstitious rites more appearance of worship than the ,bechuanas2 and at a ,bushman's grave we once came to on the ,zouga1 the observances showed distinctly that they regarded the dead as still in another state of being2 for they addressed him1 and requested him not to be offended even though they wished still to remain a little while longer in this world4 ,those among whom we now were kill many elephants1 and when the moon is full choose that time for the chase1 on account of its coolness4 ,hunting this animal is the best test of courage this country affords4 ,the ,bushmen choose the moment succeeding a charge1 when the elephant is out of breath1 to run in and give him a stab with their long-bladed spears4 ,in this case the uncivilized have the advantage over us1 but ,i believe that with half their training ,englishmen would beat the ,bushmen4 ,our present form of civilization does not necessarily produce effeminacy1 though it unquestionably increases the beauty1 courage1 and physical powers of the race4 ,when at ,kolobeng ,i took notes of the different numbers of elephants killed in the course of the season by the various parties which went past our dwelling1 in order to form an idea of the probable annual destruction of this noble animal4 ,there were parties of ,griquas1 ,bechuanas1 ,boers1 and ,englishmen4 ,all were eager to distinguish themselves1 and success depended mainly on the courage which leads the huntsman to go close to the animal1 and not waste the force of his shot on the air4 ,it was noticeable that the average for the natives was under one per man1 for the ,griquas one per man1 for the ,boers two1 and for the ,english officers twenty each4 ,this was the more remarkable1 as the ,griquas1 ,boers1 and ,bechuanas employed both dogs and natives to assist them1 while the ,english hunters generally had no assistance from either4 ,they approached to within thirty yards of the animal1 while the others stood at a distance of a hundred yards1 or even more1 and of course spent all the force of their bullets on the air4 ,one elephant was found by ,mr4 ,oswell with quite a crowd of bullets in his side1 all evidently fired in this style1 and they had not gone near the vital parts4 ,it would thus appear that our more barbarous neighbors do not possess half the courage of the civilized sportsman4 ,and it is probable that in this respect1 as well as in physical development1 we are superior to our ancestors4 ,the coats of mail and greaves of the ,knights of ,malta1 and the armor from the ,tower exhibited at the ,eglinton tournament1 may be considered decisive as to the greater size attained by modern civilized men4 ,at ,maila we spent a ,sunday with ,kaisa1 the head man of a village of ,mashona1 who had fled from the iron sway of ,mosilikatse1 whose country lies east of this4 ,i wished him to take charge of a packet of letters for ,england1 to be forwarded when1 as is the custom of the ,bamangwato1 the ,bechuanas come hither in search of skins and food among the ,bushmen2 but he could not be made to comprehend that there was no danger in the consignment4 ,he feared the responsibility and guilt if any thing should happen to them2 so ,i had to bid adieu to all hope of letting my family hear of my welfare till ,i should reach the west coast4 ,at ,unku we came into a tract of country which had been visited by refreshing showers long before1 and every spot was covered with grass run up to seed1 and the flowers of the forest were in full bloom4 ,instead of the dreary prospect around ,koobe and ,nchokotsa1 we had here a delightful scene1 all the ponds full of water1 and the birds twittering joyfully4 ,as the game can now obtain water every where1 they become very shy1 and can not be found in their accustomed haunts4 #a,,st ,,march4 ,the thermometer in the shade generally stood at #ih ,degrees from #a to #c ,p4,m41 but it sank as low as #fe ,deg4 by night1 so that the heat was by no means exhausting4 ,at the surface of the ground1 in the sun1 the thermometer marked #abe ,deg41 and three inches below it #ach ,deg4 ,the hand can not be held on the ground1 and even the horny soles of the feet of the natives must be protected by sandals of hide2 yet the ants were busy working on it4 ,the water in the ponds was as high as #ajj ,deg42 but as water does not conduct heat readily downward1 deliciously cool water may be obtained by any one walking into the middle and lifting up the water from the bottom to the surface with his hands4 ,proceeding to the north1 from ,kama-kama1 we entered into dense ,mohonono bush1 which required the constant application of the axe by three of our party for two days4 ,this bush has fine silvery leaves1 and the bark has a sweet taste4 ,the elephant1 with his usual delicacy of taste1 feeds much on it4 ,on emerging into the plains beyond1 we found a number of ,bushmen1 who afterward proved very serviceable4 ,the rains had been copious1 but now great numbers of pools were drying up4 ,lotus-plants abounded in them1 and a low1 sweet-scented plant covered their banks4 ,breezes came occasionally to us from these drying-up pools1 but the pleasant odor they carried caused sneezing in both myself and people2 and on the #ajth of ,march 7when in lat4 #ai;d #af' #aa ,s41 long4 #bd;d #bd' ,e47 we were brought to a stand by four of the party being seized with fever4 ,i had seen this disease before1 but did not at once recognize it as the ,african fever2 ,i imagined it was only a bilious attack1 arising from full feeding on flesh1 for1 the large game having been very abundant1 we always had a good supply2 but instead of the first sufferers recovering soon1 every man of our party was in a few days laid low1 except a ,bakwain and myself4 ,he managed the oxen1 while ,i attended to the wants of the patients1 and went out occasionally with the ,bushmen to get a zebra or buffalo1 so as to induce them to remain with us4 ,here for the first time ,i had leisure to follow the instructions of my kind teacher1 ,mr4 ,maclear1 and calculated several longitudes from lunar distances4 ,the hearty manner in which that eminent astronomer and frank1 friendly man had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my work1 conduced more than any thing else to inspire me with perseverance in making astronomical observations throughout the journey4 ,the grass here was so tall that the oxen became uneasy1 and one night the sight of a hyaena made them rush away into the forest to the east of us4 ,on rising on the morning of the #aith1 ,i found that my ,bakwain lad had run away with them4 ,this ,i have often seen with persons of this tribe1 even when the cattle are startled by a lion4 ,away go the young men in company with them1 and dash through bush and brake for miles1 till they think the panic is a little subsided2 they then commence whistling to the cattle in the manner they do when milking the cows3 having calmed them1 they remain as a guard till the morning4 ,the men generally return with their shins well peeled by the thorns4 ,each comrade of the ,mopato would expect his fellow to act thus1 without looking for any other reward than the brief praise of the chief4 ,our lad1 ,kibopechoe1 had gone after the oxen1 but had lost them in the rush through the flat1 trackless forest4 ,he remained on their trail all the next day and all the next night4 ,on ,sunday morning1 as ,i was setting off in search of him1 ,i found him near the wagon4 ,he had found the oxen late in the afternoon of ,saturday1 and had been obliged to stand by them all night4 ,it was wonderful how he managed without a compass1 and in such a country1 to find his way home at all1 bringing about forty oxen with him4 ,the ,bechuanas will keep on the sick-list as long as they feel any weakness2 so ,i at last began to be anxious that they should make a little exertion to get forward on our way4 ,one of them1 however1 happening to move a hundred yards from the wagon1 fell down1 and1 being unobserved1 remained the whole night in the pouring rain totally insensible2 another was subjected to frequent swooning2 but1 making beds in the wagons for these our worst cases1 with the help of the ,bakwain and the ,bushmen1 we moved slowly on4 ,we had to nurse the sick like children2 and1 like children recovering from illness1 the better they became the more impudent they grew4 ,this was seen in the peremptory orders they would give with their now piping voices4 ,nothing that we did pleased them2 and the laughter with which ,i received their ebullitions1 though it was only the real expression of gladness at their recovery1 and amusement at the ridiculous part they acted1 only increased their chagrin4 ,the want of power in the man who guided the two front oxen1 or1 as he was called1 the leader1 caused us to be entangled with trees1 both standing and fallen1 and the labor of cutting them down was even more severe than ordinary2 but1 notwithstanding an immense amount of toil1 my health continued good4 ,we wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path1 so kept a course on the magnetic meridian from ,lurilopepe4 ,the necessity of making a new path much increased our toil4 ,we were1 however1 rewarded in lat4 #ah ,degrees with a sight we had not enjoyed the year before1 namely1 large patches of grape-bearing vines4 ,there they stood before my eyes2 but the sight was so entirely unexpected that ,i stood some time gazing at the clusters of grapes with which they were loaded1 with no more thought of plucking than if ,i had been beholding them in a dream4 ,the ,bushmen know and eat them2 but they are not well flavored on account of the great astringency of the seeds1 which are in shape and size like split peas4 ,the elephants are fond of the fruit1 plant1 and root alike4 ,i here found an insect which preys on ants2 it is about an inch and a quarter long1 as thick as a crow-quill1 and covered with black hair4 ,it puts its head into a little hole in the ground1 and quivers its tail rapidly2 the ants come near to see it1 and it snaps up each as he comes within the range of the forceps on its tail4 ,as its head is beneath the ground1 it becomes a question how it can guide its tail to the ants4 ,it is probably a new species of ant-lion 7',myrmeleon formicaleo'71 great numbers of which1 both in the larvae and complete state1 are met with4 ,the ground under every tree is dotted over with their ingenious pitfalls1 and the perfect insect1 the form of which most persons are familiar with in the dragon-fly1 may be seen using its tail in the same active manner as this insect did4 ,two may be often seen joined in their flight1 the one holding on by the tail-forceps to the neck of the other4 ,on first observing this imperfect insect1 ,i imagined the forceps were on its head2 but when the insect moved1 their true position was seen4 ,the forest1 through which we were slowly toiling1 daily became more dense1 and we were kept almost constantly at work with the axe2 there was much more leafiness in the trees here than farther south4 ,the leaves are chiefly of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms1 and are exceedingly beautiful when seen against the sky2 a great variety of the papilionaceous family grow in this part of the country4 ,fleming had until this time always assisted to drive his own wagon1 but about the end of ,march he knocked up1 as well as his people4 ,as ,i could not drive two wagons1 ,i shared with him the remaining water1 half a caskful1 and went on1 with the intention of coming back for him as soon as we should reach the next pool4 ,heavy rain now commenced2 ,i was employed the whole day in cutting down trees1 and every stroke of the axe brought down a thick shower on my back1 which in the hard work was very refreshing1 as the water found its way down into my shoes4 ,in the evening we met some ,bushmen1 who volunteered to show us a pool2 and having unyoked1 ,i walked some miles in search of it4 ,as it became dark they showed their politeness--a quality which is by no means confined entirely to the civilized--by walking in front1 breaking the branches which hung across the path1 and pointing out the fallen trees4 ,on returning to the wagon1 we found that being left alone had brought out some of ,fleming's energy1 for he had managed to come up4 ,as the water in this pond dried up1 we were soon obliged to move again4 ,one of the ,bushmen took out his dice1 and1 after throwing them1 said that ,god told him to go home4 ,he threw again in order to show me the command1 but the opposite result followed2 so he remained and was useful1 for we lost the oxen again by a lion driving them off to a very great distance4 ,the lions here are not often heard4 ,they seem to have a wholesome dread of the ,bushmen1 who1 when they observe evidence of a lion's having made a full meal1 follow up his spoor so quietly that his slumbers are not disturbed4 ,one discharges a poisoned arrow from a distance of only a few feet1 while his companion simultaneously throws his skin cloak on the beast's head4 ,the sudden surprise makes the lion lose his presence of mind1 and he bounds away in the greatest confusion and terror4 ,our friends here showed me the poison which they use on these occasions4 ,it is the entrails of a caterpillar called ,n'gwa1 half an inch long4 ,they squeeze out these1 and place them all around the bottom of the barb1 and allow the poison to dry in the sun4 ,they are very careful in cleaning their nails after working with it1 as a small portion introduced into a scratch acts like morbid matter in dissection wounds4 ,the agony is so great that the person cuts himself1 calls for his mother's breast as if he were returned in idea to his childhood again1 or flies from human habitations a raging maniac4 ,the effects on the lion are equally terrible4 ,he is heard moaning in distress1 and becomes furious1 biting the trees and ground in rage4 ,as the ,bushmen have the reputation of curing the wounds of this poison1 ,i asked how this was effected4 ,they said that they administer the caterpillar itself in combination with fat2 they also rub fat into the wound1 saying that the ,n'gwa wants fat1 and1 when it does not find it in the body1 kills the man3 we give it what it wants1 and it is content3 a reason which will commend itself to the enlightened among ourselves4 ,the poison more generally employed is the milky juice of the tree ,euphorbia 7',e4 arborescens'74 ,this is particularly obnoxious to the equine race4 ,when a quantity is mixed with the water of a pond a whole herd of zebras will fall dead from the effects of the poison before they have moved away two miles4 ,it does not1 however1 kill oxen or men4 ,on them it acts as a drastic purgative only4 ,this substance is used all over the country1 though in some places the venom of serpents and a certain bulb1 ',amaryllis toxicaria'1 are added1 in order to increase the virulence4 ,father ,pedro1 a ,jesuit1 who lived at ,zumbo1 made a balsam1 containing a number of plants and ,,castor ,,oil1 as a remedy for poisoned arrow-wounds4 ,it is probable that he derived his knowledge from the natives as ,i did1 and that the reputed efficacy of the balsam is owing to its fatty constituent4 ,in cases of the bites of serpents a small key ought to be pressed down firmly on the wound1 the orifice of the key being applied to the puncture1 until a cupping-glass can be got from one of the natives4 ,a watch-key pressed firmly on the point stung by a scorpion extracts the poison1 and a mixture of fat or oil and ipecacuanha relieves the pain4 ,the ,bushmen of these districts are generally fine1 well-made men1 and are nearly independent of every one4 ,we observed them to be fond of a root somewhat like a kidney potato1 and the kernel of a nut1 which ,fleming thought was a kind of betel2 the tree is a fine1 large-spreading one1 and the leaves palmate4 ,from the quantities of berries and the abundance of game in these parts1 the ,bushmen can scarcely ever be badly off for food4 ,as ,i could1 without much difficulty1 keep them well supplied with meat1 and wished them to remain1 ,i proposed that they should bring their wives to get a share1 but they remarked that the women could always take care of themselves4 ,none of the men of our party had died1 but two seemed unlikely to recover2 and ,kibopechoe1 my willing ,mokwain1 at last became troubled with boils1 and then got all the symptoms of fever4 ,as he lay down1 the others began to move about1 and complained of weakness only4 ,believing that frequent change of place was conducive to their recovery1 we moved along as much as we could1 and came to the hill ,n'gwa 7lat4 #ah;d #bg' #bj ,s41 long4 #bd;d #ac' #cf ,e474 ,this being the only hill we had seen since leaving ,bamangwato1 we felt inclined to take off our hats to it4 ,it is three or four hundred feet high1 and covered with trees4 ,its geographical position is pretty accurately laid down from occultation and other observations4 ,i may mention that the valley on its northern side1 named ,kandehy or ,kandehai1 is as picturesque a spot as is to be seen in this part of ,africa4 ,the open glade1 surrounded by forest trees of various hues1 had a little stream meandering in the centre4 ,a herd of reddish-colored antelopes 7pallahs7 stood on one side1 near a large baobab1 looking at us1 and ready to run up the hill2 while gnus1 tsessebes1 and zebras gazed in astonishment at the intruders4 ,some fed carelessly1 and others put on the peculiar air of displeasure which these animals sometimes assume before they resolve on flight4 ,a large white rhinoceros came along the bottom of the valley with his slow sauntering gait without noticing us2 he looked as if he meant to indulge in a mud bath4 ,several buffaloes1 with their dark visages1 stood under the trees on the side opposite to the pallahs4 ,it being ,sunday1 all was peace1 and1 from the circumstances in which our party was placed1 we could not but reflect on that second stage of our existence which we hope will lead us into scenes of perfect beauty4 ,if pardoned in that free way the ,bible promises1 death will be a glorious thing2 but to be consigned to wait for the ,judgment-day1 with nothing else to ponder on but sins we would rather forget1 is a cheerless prospect4 ,our ,bushmen wished to leave us1 and1 as there was no use in trying to thwart these independent gentlemen1 ,i paid them1 and allowed them to go4 ,the payment1 however1 acted as a charm on some strangers who happened to be present1 and induced them to volunteer their aid4 ,the game hereabouts is very tame4 ,koodoos and giraffes stood gazing at me as a strange apparition when ,i went out with the ,bushmen4 ,on one occasion a lion came at daybreak1 and went round and round the oxen4 ,i could only get a glimpse of him occasionally from the wagon-box2 but1 though barely thirty yards off1 ,i could not get a shot4 ,he then began to roar at the top of his voice2 but the oxen continuing to stand still1 he was so disgusted that he went off1 and continued to use his voice for a long time in the distance4 ,i could not see that he had a mane2 if he had not1 then even the maneless variety can use their tongues4 ,we heard others also roar2 and1 when they found they could not frighten the oxen1 they became equally angry4 ,this we could observe in their tones4 ,as we went north the country became very lovely2 many new trees appeared2 the grass was green1 and often higher than the wagons2 the vines festooned the trees1 among which appeared the real banian 7',ficus ,indica'71 with its drop-shoots1 and the wild date and palmyra1 and several other trees which were new to me2 the hollows contained large patches of water4 ,next came water-courses1 now resembling small rivers1 twenty yards broad and four feet deep4 ,the further we went1 the broader and deeper these became2 their bottoms contained great numbers of deep holes1 made by elephants wading in them2 in these the oxen floundered desperately1 so that our wagon-pole broke1 compelling us to work up to the breast in water for three hours and a half2 yet ,i suffered no harm4 ,we at last came to the ,sanshureh1 which presented an impassable barrier1 so we drew up under a magnificent baobab-tree1 7lat4 #ah;d #d' #bg ,s41 long4 #bd;d #f' #bj ,e471 and resolved to explore the river for a ford4 ,the great quantity of water we had passed through was part of the annual inundation of the ,chobe2 and this1 which appeared a large1 deep river1 filled in many parts with reeds1 and having hippopotami in it1 is only one of the branches by which it sends its superabundant water to the southeast4 ,from the hill ,n'gwa a ridge of higher land runs to the northeast1 and bounds its course in that direction4 ,we1 being ignorant of this1 were in the valley1 and the only gap in the whole country destitute of tsetse4 ,in company with the ,bushmen ,i explored all the banks of the ,sanshureh to the west till we came into tsetse on that side4 ,we waded a long way among the reeds in water breast deep1 but always found a broad1 deep space free from vegetation and unfordable4 ,a peculiar kind of lichen1 which grows on the surface of the soil1 becomes detached and floats on the water1 giving out a very disagreeable odor1 like sulphureted hydrogen1 in some of these stagnant waters4 ,we made so many attempts to get over the ,sanshureh1 both to the west and east of the wagon1 in the hope of reaching some of the ,makololo on the ,chobe1 that my ,bushmen friends became quite tired of the work4 ,by means of presents ,i got them to remain some days2 but at last they slipped away by night1 and ,i was fain to take one of the strongest of my still weak companions and cross the river in a pontoon1 the gift of ,captains ,codrington and ,webb4 ,we each carried some provisions and a blanket1 and penetrated about twenty miles to the westward1 in the hope of striking the ,chobe4 ,it was much nearer to us in a northerly direction1 but this we did not then know4 ,the plain1 over which we splashed the whole of the first day1 was covered with water ankle deep1 and thick grass which reached above the knees4 ,in the evening we came to an immense wall of reeds1 six or eight feet high1 without any opening admitting of a passage4 ,when we tried to enter1 the water always became so deep that we were fain to desist4 ,we concluded that we had come to the banks of the river we were in search of1 so we directed our course to some trees which appeared in the south1 in order to get a bed and a view of the adjacent locality4 ,having shot a leche1 and made a glorious fire1 we got a good cup of tea and had a comfortable night4 ,while collecting wood that evening1 ,i found a bird's nest consisting of live leaves sewn together with threads of the spider's web4 ,nothing could exceed the airiness of this pretty contrivance2 the threads had been pushed through small punctures and thickened to resemble a knot4 ,i unfortunately lost it4 ,this was the second nest ,i had seen resembling that of the tailor-bird of ,india4 ,next morning1 by climbing the highest trees1 we could see a fine large sheet of water1 but surrounded on all sides by the same impenetrable belt of reeds4 ,this is the broad part of the ,river ,chobe1 and is called ,zabesa4 ,two tree-covered islands seemed to be much nearer to the water than the shore on which we were1 so we made an attempt to get to them first4 ,it was not the reeds alone we had to pass through2 a peculiar serrated grass1 which at certain angles cut the hands like a razor1 was mingled with the reed1 and the climbing convolvulus1 with stalks which felt as strong as whipcord1 bound the mass together4 ,we felt like pigmies in it1 and often the only way we could get on was by both of us leaning against a part and bending it down till we could stand upon it4 ,the perspiration streamed off our bodies1 and as the sun rose high1 there being no ventilation among the reeds1 the heat was stifling1 and the water1 which was up to the knees1 felt agreeably refreshing4 ,after some hours' toil we reached one of the islands4 ,here we met an old friend1 the bramble-bush4 ,my strong moleskins were quite worn through at the knees1 and the leather trowsers of my companion were torn and his legs bleeding4 ,tearing my handkerchief in two1 ,i tied the pieces round my knees1 and then encountered another difficulty4 ,we were still forty or fifty yards from the clear water1 but now we were opposed by great masses of papyrus1 which are like palms in miniature1 eight or ten feet high1 and an inch and a half in diameter4 ,these were laced together by twining convolvulus1 so strongly that the weight of both of us could not make way into the clear water4 ,at last we fortunately found a passage prepared by a hippopotamus4 ,eager as soon as we reached the island to look along the vista to clear water1 ,i stepped in and found it took me at once up to the neck4 ,returning nearly worn out1 we proceeded up the bank of the ,chobe till we came to the point of departure of the branch ,sanshureh2 we then went in the opposite direction1 or down the ,chobe1 though from the highest trees we could see nothing but one vast expanse of reed1 with here and there a tree on the islands4 ,this was a hard day's work2 and when we came to a deserted ,bayeiye hut on an ant-hill1 not a bit of wood or any thing else could be got for a fire except the grass and sticks of the dwelling itself4 ,i dreaded the ,tampans1 so common in all old huts2 but outside of it we had thousands of mosquitoes1 and cold dew began to be deposited1 so we were fain to crawl beneath its shelter4 ,we were close to the reeds1 and could listen to the strange sounds which are often heard there4 ,by day ,i had seen water-snakes putting up their heads and swimming about4 ,there were great numbers of otters 7',lutra inunguis'1 ,f4 ,cuvier71 which have made little spoors all over the plains in search of the fishes1 among the tall grass of these flooded prairies2 curious birds1 too1 jerked and wriggled among these reedy masses1 and we heard human-like voices and unearthly sounds1 with splash1 guggle1 jupp1 as if rare fun were going on in their uncouth haunts4 ,at one time something came near us1 making a splashing like that of a canoe or hippopotamus2 thinking it to be the ,makololo1 we got up1 listened1 and shouted2 then discharged a gun several times2 but the noise continued without intermission for an hour4 ,after a damp1 cold night we set to1 early in the morning1 at our work of exploring again1 but left the pontoon in order to lighten our labor4 ,the ant-hills are here very high1 some thirty feet1 and of a base so broad that trees grow on them2 while the lands1 annually flooded1 bear nothing but grass4 ,from one of these ant-hills we discovered an inlet to the ,chobe2 and1 having gone back for the pontoon1 we launched ourselves on a deep river1 here from eighty to one hundred yards wide4 ,i gave my companion strict injunctions to stick by the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should look at us2 nor was this caution unnecessary1 for one came up at our side and made a desperate plunge off4 ,we had passed over him4 ,the wave he made caused the pontoon to glide quickly away from him4 ,we paddled on from midday till sunset4 ,there was nothing but a wall of reed on each bank1 and we saw every prospect of spending a supperless night in our float2 but just as the short twilight of these parts was commencing1 we perceived on the north bank the village of ,moremi1 one of the ,makololo1 whose acquaintance ,i had made on our former visit1 and who was now located on the island ,mahonta 7lat4 #ag;d #eh' ,s41 long4 #bd;d #f' ,e474 ,the villagers looked as we may suppose people do who see a ghost1 and in their figurative way of speaking said1 ,he has dropped among us from the clouds1 yet came riding on the back of a hippopotamus6 ,we ,makololo thought no one could cross the ,chobe without our knowledge1 but here he drops among us like a bird4 ,next day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands1 and found that1 in our absence1 the men had allowed the cattle to wander into a very small patch of wood to the west containing the tsetse2 this carelessness cost me ten fine large oxen4 ,after remaining a few days1 some of the head men of the ,makololo came down from ,linyanti1 with a large party of ,barotse1 to take us across the river4 ,this they did in fine style1 swimming and diving among the oxen more like alligators than men1 and taking the wagons to pieces and carrying them across on a number of canoes lashed together4 ,we were now among friends2 so going about thirty miles to the north1 in order to avoid the still flooded lands on the north of the ,chobe1 we turned westward toward ,linyanti 7lat4 #ah;d #ag' #bj ,s41 long4 #bc;d #ej' #i ,e471 where we arrived on the #bc;d of ,may1 #ahec4 ,this is the capital town of the ,makololo1 and only a short distance from our wagon-stand of #ahea 7lat4 #ah;d #bj' ,s41 long4 #bc;d #ej' ,e474 ,chapter #i4 ,reception at ,linyanti--,the court ,herald--,sekeletu obtains the ,chieftainship from his ,sister--,mpepe's ,plot--,slave-trading ,mambari --,their sudden ,flight--,sekeletu narrowly escapes ,assassination-- ,execution of ,mpepe--,the ,courts of ,law--,mode of trying ,offenses-- ,sekeletu's ,reason for not learning to read the ,bible--,the ,disposition made of the ,wives of a deceased ,chief--,makololo ,women--,they work but little--,employ ,serfs--,their ,drink1 ,dress1 and ,ornaments--,public ,religious ,services in the ,kotla--,unfavorable ,associations of the place--,native ,doctors--,proposals to teach the ,makololo to read--,sekeletu's ,present--,reason for accepting it--,trading in ,ivory--,accidental ,fire--,presents for ,sekeletu--,two ,breeds of native ,cattle--,ornamenting the ,cattle--,the ,women and the ,looking-glass--,mode of preparing the ,skins of ,oxen for ,mantles and for ,shields--,throwing the ,spear4 ,the whole population of ,linyanti1 numbering between six and seven thousand souls1 turned out en masse to see the wagons in motion4 ,they had never witnessed the phenomenon before1 we having on the former occasion departed by night4 ,sekeletu1 now in power1 received us in what is considered royal style1 setting before us a great number of pots of boyaloa1 the beer of the country4 ,these were brought by women1 and each bearer takes a good draught of the beer when she sets it down1 by way of tasting1 to show that there is no poison4 ,the court herald1 an old man who occupied the post also in ,sebituane's time1 stood up1 and after some antics1 such as leaping1 and shouting at the top of his voice1 roared out some adulatory sentences1 as1 ,don't ,i see the white man8 ,don't ,i see the comrade of ,sebituane8 ,don't ,i see the father of ,sekeletu8--,we want sleep4--,give your son sleep1 my lord1 etc41 etc4 ,the perquisites of this man are the heads of all the cattle slaughtered by the chief1 and he even takes a share of the tribute before it is distributed and taken out of the kotla4 ,he is expected to utter all the proclamations1 call assemblies1 keep the kotla clean1 and the fire burning every evening1 and when a person is executed in public he drags away the body4 ,i found ,sekeletu a young man of eighteen years of age1 of that dark yellow or coffee-and-milk color1 of which the ,makololo are so proud1 because it distinguishes them considerably from the black tribes on the rivers4 ,he is about five feet seven in height1 and neither so good looking nor of so much ability as his father was1 but is equally friendly to the ,english4 ,sebituane installed his daughter ,mamochisane into the chieftainship long before his death1 but1 with all his acuteness1 the idea of her having a husband who should not be her lord did not seem to enter his mind4 ,he wished to make her his successor1 probably in imitation of some of the negro tribes with whom he had come into contact2 but1 being of the ,bechuana race1 he could not look upon the husband except as the woman's lord2 so he told her all the men were hers--she might take any one1 but ought to keep none4 ,in fact1 he thought she might do with the men what he could do with the women2 but these men had other wives2 and1 according to a saying in the country1 the tongues of women can not be governed1 they made her miserable by their remarks4 ,one man whom she chose was even called her wife1 and her son the child of ,mamochisane's wife2 but the arrangement was so distasteful to ,mamochisane herself that1 as soon as ,sebituane died1 she said she never would consent to govern the ,makololo so long as she had a brother living4 ,sekeletu1 being afraid of another member of the family1 ,mpepe1 who had pretensions to the chieftainship1 urged his sister strongly to remain as she had always been1 and allow him to support her authority by leading the ,makololo when they went forth to war4 ,three days were spent in public discussion on the point4 ,mpepe insinuated that ,sekeletu was not the lawful son of ,sebituane1 on account of his mother having been the wife of another chief before her marriage with ,sebituane2 ,mamochisane1 however1 upheld ,sekeletu's claims1 and at last stood up in the assembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears3 ,i have been a chief only because my father wished it4 ,i always would have preferred to be married and have a family like other women4 ,you1 ,sekeletu1 must be chief1 and build up your father's house4 ,this was a death-blow to the hopes of ,mpepe4 ,as it will enable the reader to understand the social and political relations of these people1 ,i will add a few more particulars respecting ,mpepe4 ,sebituane1 having no son to take the leadership of the ,mopato of the age of his daughter1 chose him1 as the nearest male relative1 to occupy that post2 and presuming from ,mpepe's connection with his family that he would attend to his interests and relieve him from care1 he handed his cattle over to his custody4 ,mpepe removed to the chief town1 ,naliele1 and took such effectual charge of all the cattle that ,sebituane saw he could only set matters on their former footing by the severe measure of ,mpepe's execution4 ,being unwilling to do this1 and fearing the enchantments which1 by means of a number of ,barotse doctors1 ,mpepe now used in a hut built for the purpose1 and longing for peaceful retirement after thirty years' fighting1 he heard with pleasure of our arrival at the lake1 and came down as far as ,sesheke to meet us4 ,he had an idea1 picked up from some of the numerous strangers who visited him1 that white men had a pot 7a cannon7 in their towns which would burn up any attacking party2 and he thought if he could only get this he would be able to sleep the remainder of his days in peace4 ,this he hoped to obtain from the white men4 ,hence the cry of the herald1 ,give us sleep4 ,it is remarkable how anxious for peace those who have been fighting all their lives appear to be4 ,when ,sekeletu was installed in the chieftainship1 he felt his position rather insecure1 for it was believed that the incantations of ,mpepe had an intimate connection with ,sebituane's death4 ,indeed1 the latter had said to his son1 ,that hut of incantation will prove fatal to either you or me4 ,when the ,mambari1 in #ahej1 took home a favorable report of this new market to the west1 a number of half-caste ,portuguese slave-traders were induced to come in #ahec2 and one1 who resembled closely a real ,portuguese1 came to ,linyanti while ,i was there4 ,this man had no merchandise1 and pretended to have come in order to inquire what sort of goods were necessary for the market4 ,he seemed much disconcerted by my presence there4 ,sekeletu presented him with an elephant's tusk and an ox2 and when he had departed about fifty miles to the westward1 he carried off an entire village of the ,bakalahari belonging to the ,makololo4 ,he had a number of armed slaves with him2 and as all the villagers--men1 women1 and children--were removed1 and the fact was unknown until a considerable time afterward1 it is not certain whether his object was obtained by violence or by fair promises4 ,in either case1 slavery must have been the portion of these poor people4 ,he was carried in a hammock1 slung between two poles1 which appearing to be a bag1 the ,makololo named him ,father of the ,bag4 ,mpepe favored these slave-traders1 and they1 as is usual with them1 founded all their hopes of influence on his successful rebellion4 ,my arrival on the scene was felt to be so much weight in the scale against their interests4 ,a large party of ,mambari had come to ,linyanti when ,i was floundering on the prairies south of the ,chobe4 ,as the news of my being in the neighborhood reached them their countenances fell2 and when some ,makololo1 who had assisted us to cross the river1 returned with hats which ,i had given them1 the ,mambari betook themselves to precipitate flight4 ,it is usual for visitors to ask formal permission before attempting to leave a chief1 but the sight of the hats made the ,mambari pack up at once4 ,the ,makololo inquired the cause of the hurry1 and were told that1 if ,i found them there1 ,i should take all their slaves and goods from them2 and1 though assured by ,sekeletu that ,i was not a robber1 but a man of peace1 they fled by night1 while ,i was still sixty miles off4 ,they went to the north1 where1 under the protection of ,mpepe1 they had erected a stockade of considerable size4 ,there1 several half-caste slave-traders1 under the leadership of a native ,portuguese1 carried on their traffic1 without reference to the chief into whose country they had unceremoniously introduced themselves2 while ,mpepe1 feeding them with the cattle of ,sekeletu1 formed a plan of raising himself1 by means of their fire-arms1 to be the head of the ,makololo4 ,the usual course which the slave-traders adopt is to take a part in the political affairs of each tribe1 and1 siding with the strongest1 get well paid by captures made from the weaker party4 ,long secret conferences were held by the slave-traders and ,mpepe1 and it was deemed advisable for him to strike the first blow2 so he provided himself with a small battle-axe1 with the intention of cutting ,sekeletu down the first time they met4 ,my object being first of all to examine the country for a healthy locality1 before attempting to make a path to either the ,east or ,west ,coast1 ,i proposed to ,sekeletu the plan of ascending the great river which we had discovered in #ahea4 ,he volunteered to accompany me1 and1 when we got about sixty miles away1 on the road to ,sesheke1 we encountered ,mpepe4 ,the ,makololo1 though possessing abundance of cattle1 had never attempted to ride oxen until ,i advised it in #ahea4 ,the ,bechuanas generally were in the same condition1 until ,europeans came among them and imparted the idea of riding4 ,all their journeys previously were performed on foot4 ,sekeletu and his companions were mounted on oxen1 though1 having neither saddle nor bridle1 they were perpetually falling off4 ,mpepe1 armed with his little axe1 came along a path parallel to1 but a quarter of a mile distant from1 that of our party1 and1 when he saw ,sekeletu1 he ran with all his might toward us2 but ,sekeletu1 being on his guard1 galloped off to an adjacent village4 ,he then withdrew somewhere till all our party came up4 ,mpepe had given his own party to understand that he would cut down ,sekeletu1 either on their first meeting1 or at the breaking up of their first conference4 ,the former intention having been thus frustrated1 he then determined to effect his purpose after their first interview4 ,i happened to sit down between the two in the hut where they met4 ,being tired with riding all day in the sun1 ,i soon asked ,sekeletu where ,i should sleep1 and he replied1 ,come1 ,i will show you4 ,as we rose together1 ,i unconsciously covered ,sekeletu's body with mine1 and saved him from the blow of the assassin4 ,i knew nothing of the plot1 but remarked that all ,mpepe's men kept hold of their arms1 even after we had sat down--a thing quite unusual in the presence of a chief2 and when ,sekeletu showed me the hut in which ,i was to spend the night1 he said to me1 ,that man wishes to kill me4 ,i afterward learned that some of ,mpepe's attendants had divulged the secret2 and1 bearing in mind his father's instructions1 ,sekeletu put ,mpepe to death that night4 ,it was managed so quietly1 that1 although ,i was sleeping within a few yards of the scene1 ,i knew nothing of it till the next day4 ,nokuane went to the fire1 at which ,mpepe sat1 with a handful of snuff1 as if he were about to sit down and regale himself therewith4 ,mpepe said to him1 ,nsepisa 7cause me to take a pinch72 and1 as he held out his hand1 ,nokuane caught hold of it1 while another man seized the other hand1 and1 leading him out a mile1 speared him4 ,this is the common mode of executing criminals4 ,they are not allowed to speak2 though on one occasion a man1 feeling his wrist held too tightly1 said1 ,hold me gently1 can't you8 you will soon be led out in the same way yourselves4 ,mpepe's men fled to the ,barotse1 and1 it being unadvisable for us to go thither during the commotion which followed on ,mpepe's death1 we returned to ,linyanti4 ,the foregoing may be considered as a characteristic specimen of their mode of dealing with grave political offenses4 ,in common cases there is a greater show of deliberation4 ,the complainant asks the man against whom he means to lodge his complaint to come with him to the chief4 ,this is never refused4 ,when both are in the kotla1 the complainant stands up and states the whole case before the chief and the people usually assembled there4 ,he stands a few seconds after he has done this1 to recollect if he has forgotten any thing4 ,the witnesses to whom he has referred then rise up and tell all they themselves have seen or heard1 but not any thing that they have heard from others4 ,the defendant1 after allowing some minutes to elapse so that he may not interrupt any of the opposite party1 slowly rises1 folds his cloak around him1 and1 in the most quiet1 deliberate way he can assume--yawning1 blowing his nose1 etc4--begins to explain the affair1 denying the charge1 or admitting it1 as the case may be4 ,sometimes1 when galled by his remarks1 the complainant utters a sentence of dissent2 the accused turns quietly to him1 and says1 ,be silent3 ,i sat still while you were speaking2 can't you do the same8 ,do you want to have it all to yourself8 ,and as the audience acquiesce in this bantering1 and enforce silence1 he goes on till he has finished all he wishes to say in his defense4 ,if he has any witnesses to the truth of the facts of his defense1 they give their evidence4 ,no oath is administered2 but occasionally1 when a statement is questioned1 a man will say1 ,by my father1 or ,by the chief1 it is so4 ,their truthfulness among each other is quite remarkable2 but their system of government is such that ,europeans are not in a position to realize it readily4 ,a poor man will say1 in his defense against a rich one1 ,i am astonished to hear a man so great as he make a false accusation2 as if the offense of falsehood were felt to be one against the society which the individual referred to had the greatest interest in upholding4 ,if the case is one of no importance1 the chief decides it at once2 if frivolous1 he may give the complainant a scolding1 and put a stop to the case in the middle of the complaint1 or he may allow it to go on without paying any attention to it whatever4 ,family quarrels are often treated in this way1 and then a man may be seen stating his case with great fluency1 and not a soul listening to him4 ,but if it is a case between influential men1 or brought on by under-chiefs1 then the greatest decorum prevails4 ,if the chief does not see his way clearly to a decision1 he remains silent2 the elders then rise one by one and give their opinions1 often in the way of advice rather than as decisions2 and when the chief finds the general sentiment agreeing in one view1 he delivers his judgment accordingly4 ,he alone speaks sitting2 all others stand4 ,no one refuses to acquiesce in the decision of the chief1 as he has the power of life and death in his hands1 and can enforce the law to that extent if he chooses2 but grumbling is allowed1 and1 when marked favoritism is shown to any relative of the chief1 the people generally are not so astonished at the partiality as we would be in ,england4 ,this system was found as well developed among the ,makololo as among the ,bakwains1 or even better1 and is no foreign importation4 ,when at ,cassange1 my men had a slight quarrel among themselves1 and came to me1 as to their chief1 for judgment4 ,this had occurred several times before1 so without a thought ,i went out of the ,portuguese merchant's house in which ,i was a guest1 sat down1 and heard the complaint and defense in the usual way4 ,when ,i had given my decision in the common admonitory form1 they went off apparently satisfied4 ,several ,portuguese1 who had been viewing the proceedings with great interest1 complimented me on the success of my teaching them how to act in litigation2 but ,i could not take any credit to myself for the system which ,i had found ready-made to my hands4 ,soon after our arrival at ,linyanti1 ,sekeletu took me aside1 and pressed me to mention those things ,i liked best and hoped to get from him4 ,any thing1 either in or out of his town1 should be freely given if ,i would only mention it4 ,i explained to him that my object was to elevate him and his people to be ,christians2 but he replied he did not wish to learn to read the ,book1 for he was afraid it might change his heart1 and make him content with only one wife1 like ,sechele4 ,it was of little use to urge that the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife equal to his present complacency in polygamy4 ,such a preference after the change of mind could not now be understood by him any more than the real1 unmistakable pleasure of religious services can by those who have not experienced what is known by the term the new heart4 ,i assured him that nothing was expected but by his own voluntary decision4 ,no1 no2 he wanted always to have five wives at least4 ,i liked the frankness of ,sekeletu1 for nothing is so wearying to the spirit as talking to those who agree with every thing advanced4 ,sekeletu1 according to the system of the ,bechuanas1 became possessor of his father's wives1 and adopted two of them2 the children by these women are1 however1 in these cases1 termed brothers4 ,when an elder brother dies1 the same thing occurs in respect of his wives2 the brother next in age takes them1 as among the ,jews1 and the children that may be born of those women he calls brothers also4 ,he thus raises up seed to his departed relative4 ,an uncle of ,sekeletu1 being a younger brother of ,sebituane1 got that chieftain's head-wife or queen3 there is always one who enjoys this title4 ,her hut is called the great house1 and her children inherit the chieftainship4 ,if she dies1 a new wife is selected for the same position1 and enjoys the same privileges1 though she may happen to be a much younger woman than the rest4 ,the majority of the wives of ,sebituane were given to influential under-chiefs2 and1 in reference to their early casting off the widow's weeds1 a song was sung1 the tenor of which was that the men alone felt the loss of their father ,sebituane1 the women were so soon supplied with new husbands that their hearts had not time to become sore with grief4 ,the women complain because the proportions between the sexes are so changed now that they are not valued as they deserve4 ,the majority of the real ,makololo have been cut off by fever4 ,those who remain are a mere fragment of the people who came to the north with ,sebituane4 ,migrating from a very healthy climate in the south1 they were more subject to the febrile diseases of the valley in which we found them than the black tribes they conquered4 ,in comparison with the ,barotse1 ,batoka1 and ,banyeti1 the ,makololo have a sickly hue4 ,they are of a light brownish-yellow color1 while the tribes referred to are very dark1 with a slight tinge of olive4 ,the whole of the colored tribes consider that beauty and fairness are associated1 and women long for children of light color so much1 that they sometimes chew the bark of a certain tree in hopes of producing that effect4 ,to my eye the dark color is much more agreeable than the tawny hue of the half-caste1 which that of the ,makololo ladies closely resembles4 ,the women generally escaped the fever1 but they are less fruitful than formerly1 and1 to their complaint of being undervalued on account of the disproportion of the sexes1 they now add their regrets at the want of children1 of whom they are all excessively fond4 ,the ,makololo women work but little4 ,indeed1 the families of that nation are spread over the country1 one or two only in each village1 as the lords of the land4 ,they all have lordship over great numbers of subjected tribes1 who pass by the general name ,makalaka1 and who are forced to render certain services1 and to aid in tilling the soil2 but each has his own land under cultivation1 and otherwise lives nearly independent4 ,they are proud to be called ,makololo1 but the other term is often used in reproach1 as betokening inferiority4 ,this species of servitude may be termed serfdom1 as it has to be rendered in consequence of subjection by force of arms1 but it is necessarily very mild4 ,it is so easy for any one who is unkindly treated to make his escape to other tribes1 that the ,makololo are compelled to treat them1 to a great extent1 rather as children than slaves4 ,some masters1 who fail from defect of temper or disposition to secure the affections of the conquered people1 frequently find themselves left without a single servant1 in consequence of the absence and impossibility of enforcing a fugitive-slave law1 and the readiness with which those who are themselves subjected assist the fugitives across the rivers in canoes4 ,the ,makololo ladies are liberal in their presents of milk and other food1 and seldom require to labor1 except in the way of beautifying their own huts and court-yards4 ,they drink large quantities of boyaloa or o-alo1 the buza of the ,arabs1 which1 being made of the grain called holcus sorghum or durasaifi1 in a minute state of subdivision1 is very nutritious1 and gives that plumpness of form which is considered beautiful4 ,they dislike being seen at their potations by persons of the opposite sex4 ,they cut their woolly hair quite short1 and delight in having the whole person shining with butter4 ,their dress is a kilt reaching to the knees2 its material is ox-hide1 made as soft as cloth4 ,it is not ungraceful4 ,a soft skin mantle is thrown across the shoulders when the lady is unemployed1 but when engaged in any sort of labor she throws this aside1 and works in the kilt alone4 ,the ornaments most coveted are large brass anklets as thick as the little finger1 and armlets of both brass and ivory1 the latter often an inch broad4 ,the rings are so heavy that the ankles are often blistered by the weight pressing down2 but it is the fashion1 and is borne as magnanimously as tight lacing and tight shoes among ourselves4 ,strings of beads are hung around the neck1 and the fashionable colors being light green and pink1 a trader could get almost any thing he chose for beads of these colors4 ,at our public religious services in the kotla1 the ,makololo women always behaved with decorum from the first1 except at the conclusion of the prayer4 ,when all knelt down1 many of those who had children1 in following the example of the rest1 bent over their little ones2 the children1 in terror of being crushed to death1 set up a simultaneous yell1 which so tickled the whole assembly there was often a subdued titter1 to be turned into a hearty laugh as soon as they heard ,amen4 ,this was not so difficult to overcome in them as similar peccadilloes were in the case of the women farther south4 ,long after we had settled at ,mabotsa1 when preaching on the most solemn subjects1 a woman might be observed to look round1 and1 seeing a neighbor seated on her dress1 give her a hunch with the elbow to make her move off2 the other would return it with interest1 and perhaps the remark1 ,take the nasty thing away1 will you8 ,then three or four would begin to hustle the first offenders1 and the men to swear at them all1 by way of enforcing silence4 ,great numbers of little trifling things like these occur1 and would not be worth the mention but that one can not form a correct idea of missionary work except by examination of the minutiae4 ,at the risk of appearing frivolous to some1 ,i shall continue to descend to mere trifles4 ,the numbers who attended at the summons of the herald1 who acted as beadle1 were often from five to seven hundred4 ,the service consisted of reading a small portion of the ,bible and giving an explanatory address1 usually short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention4 ,so long as we continue to hold services in the kotla1 the associations of the place are unfavorable to solemnity2 hence it is always desirable to have a place of worship as soon as possible2 and it is of importance1 too1 to treat such place with reverence1 as an aid to secure that serious attention which religious subjects demand4 ,this will appear more evident when it is recollected that1 in the very spot where we had been engaged in acts of devotion1 half an hour after a dance would be got up2 and these habits can not be at first opposed without the appearance of assuming too much authority over them4 ,it is always unwise to hurt their feelings of independence4 ,much greater influence will be gained by studying how you may induce them to act aright1 with the impression that they are doing it of their own free will4 ,our services having necessarily been all in the open air1 where it is most difficult to address large bodies of people1 prevented my recovering so entirely from the effects of clergyman's sore throat as ,i expected1 when my uvula was excised at the ,cape4 ,to give an idea of the routine followed for months together1 on other days as well as on ,sundays1 ,i may advert to my habit of treating the sick for complaints which seemed to surmount the skill of their own doctors4 ,i refrained from going to any one unless his own doctor wished it1 or had given up the case4 ,this led to my having a selection of the severer cases only1 and prevented the doctors being offended at my taking their practice out of their hands4 ,when attacked by fever myself1 and wishing to ascertain what their practices were1 ,i could safely intrust myself in their hands on account of their well-known friendly feelings4 ,the plan of showing kindness to the natives in their bodily ailments secures their friendship2 this is not the case to the same degree in old missions1 where the people have learned to look upon relief as a right--a state of things which sometimes happens among ourselves at home4 ,medical aid is therefore most valuable in young missions1 though at all stages it is an extremely valuable adjunct to other operations4 ,i proposed to teach the ,makololo to read1 but1 for the reasons mentioned1 ,sekeletu at first declined2 after some weeks1 however1 ,motibe1 his father-in-law1 and some others1 determined to brave the mysterious book4 ,to all who have not acquired it1 the knowledge of letters is quite unfathomable2 there is naught like it within the compass of their observation2 and we have no comparison with any thing except pictures1 to aid them in comprehending the idea of signs of words4 ,it seems to them supernatural that we see in a book things taking place1 or having occurred at a distance4 ,no amount of explanation conveys the idea unless they learn to read4 ,machinery is equally inexplicable1 and money nearly as much so until they see it in actual use4 ,they are familiar with barter alone2 and in the centre of the country1 where gold is totally unknown1 if a button and sovereign were left to their choice1 they would prefer the former on account of its having an eye4 ,in beginning to learn1 ,motibe seemed to himself in the position of the doctor1 who was obliged to drink his potion before the patient1 to show that it contained nothing detrimental2 after he had mastered the alphabet1 and reported the thing so far safe1 ,sekeletu and his young companions came forward to try for themselves4 ,he must have resolved to watch the effects of the book against his views on polygamy1 and abstain whenever he perceived any tendency1 in reading it1 toward enforcing him to put his wives away4 ,a number of men learned the alphabet in a short time and were set to teach others1 but before much progress could be made ,i was on my way to ,loanda4 ,as ,i had declined to name any thing as a present from ,sekeletu1 except a canoe to take me up the river1 he brought ten fine elephants' tusks and laid them down beside my wagon4 ,he would take no denial1 though ,i told him ,i should prefer to see him trading with ,fleming1 a man of color from the ,west ,indies1 who had come for the purpose4 ,i had1 during the eleven years of my previous course1 invariably abstained from taking presents of ivory1 from an idea that a religious instructor degraded himself by accepting gifts from those whose spiritual welfare he professed to seek4 ,my precedence of all traders in the line of discovery put me often in the way of very handsome offers1 but ,i always advised the donors to sell their ivory to traders1 who would be sure to follow1 and when at some future time they had become rich by barter1 they might remember me or my children4 ,when ,lake ,ngami was discovered ,i might have refused permission to a trader who accompanied us2 but when he applied for leave to form part of our company1 knowing that ,mr4 ,oswell would no more trade than myself1 and that the people of the lake would be disappointed if they could not dispose of their ivory1 ,i willingly granted a sanction1 without which his people would not at that time have ventured so far4 ,this was surely preferring the interest of another to my own4 ,the return ,i got for this was a notice in one of the ,cape papers that this man was the true discoverer of the lake6 ,the conclusion ,i had come to was1 that it is quite lawful1 though perhaps not expedient1 for missionaries to trade2 but barter is the only means by which a missionary in the interior can pay his way1 as money has no value4 ,in all the journeys ,i had previously undertaken for wider diffusion of the ,gospel1 the extra expenses were defrayed from my salary of #ajj ,pounds per annum4 ,this sum is sufficient to enable a missionary to live in the interior of ,south ,africa1 supposing he has a garden capable of yielding corn and vegetables2 but should he not1 and still consider that six or eight months can not lawfully be spent simply in getting goods at a lower price than they can be had from itinerant traders1 the sum mentioned is barely sufficient for the poorest fare and plainest apparel4 ,as we never felt ourselves justified in making journeys to the colony for the sake of securing bargains1 the most frugal living was necessary to enable us to be a little charitable to others2 but when to this were added extra traveling expenses1 the wants of an increasing family1 and liberal gifts to chiefs1 it was difficult to make both ends meet4 ,the pleasure of missionary labor would be enhanced if one could devote his life to the heathen1 without drawing a salary from a society at all4 ,the luxury of doing good from one's own private resources1 without appearing to either natives or ,europeans to be making a gain of it1 is far preferable1 and an object worthy the ambition of the rich4 ,but few men of fortune1 however1 now devote themselves to ,christian missions1 as of old4 ,presents were always given to the chiefs whom we visited1 and nothing accepted in return2 but when ,sebituane 7in #ahea7 offered some ivory1 ,i took it1 and was able by its sale to present his son with a number of really useful articles of a higher value than ,i had ever been able to give before to any chief4 ,in doing this1 of course1 ,i appeared to trade1 but1 feeling ,i had a right to do so1 ,i felt perfectly easy in my mind2 and1 as ,i still held the view of the inexpediency of combining the two professions1 ,i was glad of the proposal of one of the most honorable merchants of ,cape ,town1 ,mr4 ,h4 ,e4 ,rutherford1 that he should risk a sum of money in ,fleming's hands for the purpose of attempting to develop a trade with the ,makololo4 ,it was to this man ,i suggested ,sekeletu should sell the tusks which he had presented for my acceptance1 but the chief refused to take them back from me4 ,the goods which ,fleming had brought were ill adapted for the use of the natives1 but he got a pretty good load of ivory in exchange2 and though it was his first attempt at trading1 and the distance traveled over made the expenses enormous1 he was not a loser by the trip4 ,other traders followed1 who demanded #ij lbs4 of ivory for a musket4 ,the ,makololo1 knowing nothing of steelyards1 but supposing that they were meant to cheat them1 declined to trade except by exchanging one bull and one cow elephant's tusk for each gun4 ,this would average #gj lbs4 of ivory1 which sells at the ,cape for #es4 per pound1 for a second-hand musket worth #ajs4 ,i1 being sixty miles distant1 did not witness this attempt at barter1 but1 anxious to enable my countrymen to drive a brisk trade1 told the ,makololo to sell my ten tusks on their own account for whatever they would bring4 ,seventy tusks were for sale1 but1 the parties not understanding each other's talk1 no trade was established2 and when ,i passed the spot some time afterward1 ,i found that the whole of that ivory had been destroyed by an accidental fire1 which broke out in the village when all the people were absent4 ,success in trade is as much dependent on knowledge of the language as success in traveling4 ,i had brought with me as presents an improved breed of goats1 fowls1 and a pair of cats4 ,a superior bull was bought1 also as a gift to ,sekeletu1 but ,i was compelled to leave it on account of its having become foot-sore4 ,as the ,makololo are very fond of improving the breed of their domestic animals1 they were much pleased with my selection4 ,i endeavored to bring the bull1 in performance of a promise made to ,sebituane before he died4 ,admiring a calf which we had with us1 he proposed to give me a cow for it1 which in the native estimation was offering three times its value4 ,i presented it to him at once1 and promised to bring him another and a better one4 ,sekeletu was much gratified by my attempt to keep my word given to his father4 ,they have two breeds of cattle among them4 ,one1 called the ,batoka1 because captured from that tribe1 is of diminutive size1 but very beautiful1 and closely resembles the short-horns of our own country4 ,the little pair presented by the ,king of ,portugal to ,h4,r4,h4 the prince consort1 is of this breed4 ,they are very tame1 and remarkably playful2 they may be seen lying on their sides by the fires in the evening2 and1 when the herd goes out1 the herdsman often precedes them1 and has only to commence capering to set them all a gamboling4 ,the meat is superior to that of the large animal4 ,the other1 or ,barotse ox1 is much larger1 and comes from the fertile ,barotse ,valley4 ,they stand high on their legs1 often nearly six feet at the withers2 and they have large horns4 ,those of one of a similar breed that we brought from the lake measured from tip to tip eight and a half feet4 ,the ,makololo are in the habit of shaving off a little from one side of the horns of these animals when still growing1 in order to make them curve in that direction and assume fantastic shapes4 ,the stranger the curvature1 the more handsome the ox is considered to be1 and the longer this ornament of the cattle-pen is spared to beautify the herd4 ,this is a very ancient custom in ,africa1 for the tributary tribes of ,ethiopia are seen1 on some of the most ancient ,egyptian monuments1 bringing contorted-horned cattle into ,egypt4 ,all are remarkably fond of their cattle1 and spend much time in ornamenting and adorning them4 ,some are branded all over with a hot knife1 so as to cause a permanent discoloration of the hair1 in lines like the bands on the hide of a zebra4 ,pieces of skin two or three inches long and broad are detached1 and allowed to heal in a dependent position around the head--a strange style of ornament2 indeed1 it is difficult to conceive in what their notion of beauty consists4 ,the women have somewhat the same ideas with ourselves of what constitutes comeliness4 ,they came frequently and asked for the looking-glass2 and the remarks they made--while ,i was engaged in reading1 and apparently not attending to them--on first seeing themselves therein1 were amusingly ridiculous4 ,is that me8 ,what a big mouth ,i have6 ,my ears are as big as pumpkin-leaves4 ,i have no chin at all4 ,or1 ,i would have been pretty1 but am spoiled by these high cheek-bones4 ,see how my head shoots up in the middle6 laughing vociferously all the time at their own jokes4 ,they readily perceive any defect in each other1 and give nicknames accordingly4 ,one man came alone to have a quiet gaze at his own features once1 when he thought ,i was asleep2 after twisting his mouth about in various directions1 he remarked to himself1 ,people say ,i am ugly1 and how very ugly ,i am indeed6 ,the ,makololo use all the skins of their oxen for making either mantles or shields4 ,for the former1 the hide is stretched out by means of pegs1 and dried4 ,ten or a dozen men then collect round it with small adzes1 which1 when sharpened with an iron bodkin1 are capable of shaving off the substance of the skin on the fleshy side until it is quite thin2 when sufficiently thin1 a quantity of brain is smeared over it1 and some thick milk4 ,then an instrument made of a number of iron spikes tied round a piece of wood1 so that the points only project beyond it1 is applied to it in a carding fashion1 until the fibres of the bulk of it are quite loose4 ,milk or butter is applied to it again1 and it forms a garment nearly as soft as cloth4 ,the shields are made of hides partially dried in the sun1 and then beaten with hammers until they are stiff and dry4 ,two broad belts of a differently-colored skin are sewed into them longitudinally1 and sticks inserted to make them rigid and not liable to bend easily4 ,the shield is a great protection in their way of fighting with spears1 but they also trust largely to their agility in springing aside from the coming javelin4 ,the shield assists when so many spears are thrown that it is impossible not to receive some of them4 ,their spears are light javelins2 and1 judging from what ,i have seen them do in elephant-hunting1 ,i believe1 when they have room to make a run and discharge them with the aid of the jerk of stopping1 they can throw them between forty and fifty yards4 ,they give them an upward direction in the discharge1 so that they come down on the object with accelerated force4 ,i saw a man who in battle had received one in the shin2 the excitement of the moment prevented his feeling any pain2 but1 when the battle was over1 the blade was found to have split the bone1 and become so impacted in the cleft that no force could extract it4 ,it was necessary to take an axe and press the split bone asunder before the weapon could be taken out4 ,chapter #aj4 ,the ,fever--,its ,symptoms--,remedies of the native ,doctors--,hospitality of ,sekeletu and his ,people--,one of their ,reasons for ,polygamy--,they cultivate largely--,the ,makalaka or subject ,tribes--,sebituane's ,policy respecting them--,their ,affection for him--,products of the ,soil--,instrument of ,culture--,the ,tribute--,distributed by the ,chief--,a warlike ,demonstration--,lechulatebe's ,provocations--,the ,makololo determine to punish him--,the ,bechuanas--,meaning of the ,term--,three ,divisions of the great ,family of ,south ,africans4 ,on the #cjth of ,may ,i was seized with fever for the first time4 ,we reached the town of ,linyanti on the #bc;d2 and as my habits were suddenly changed from great exertion to comparative inactivity1 at the commencement of the cold season ,i suffered from a severe attack of stoppage of the secretions1 closely resembling a common cold4 ,warm baths and drinks relieved me1 and ,i had no idea but that ,i was now recovering from the effects of a chill1 got by leaving the warm wagon in the evening in order to conduct family worship at my people's fire4 ,but on the #b;d of ,june a relapse showed to the ,makololo1 who knew the complaint1 that my indisposition was no other than the fever1 with which ,i have since made a more intimate acquaintance4 ,cold east winds prevail at this time2 and as they come over the extensive flats inundated by the ,chobe1 as well as many other districts where pools of rain-water are now drying up1 they may be supposed to be loaded with malaria and watery vapor1 and many cases of fever follow4 ,the usual symptoms of stopped secretion are manifested--shivering and a feeling of coldness1 though the skin is quite hot to the touch of another4 ,the heat in the axilla1 over the heart and region of the stomach1 was in my case #ajj ,deg42 but along the spine and at the nape of the neck #ajc ,deg4 ,the internal processes were all1 with the exception of the kidneys and liver1 stopped2 the latter1 in its efforts to free the blood of noxious particles1 often secretes enormous quantities of bile4 ,there were pains along the spine1 and frontal headache4 ,anxious to ascertain whether the natives possessed the knowledge of any remedy of which we were ignorant1 ,i requested the assistance of one of ,sekeletu's doctors4 ,he put some roots into a pot with water1 and1 when it was boiling1 placed it on a spot beneath a blanket thrown around both me and it4 ,this produced no immediate effect2 he then got a small bundle of different kinds of medicinal woods1 and1 burning them in a potsherd nearly to ashes1 used the smoke and hot vapor arising from them as an auxiliary to the other in causing diaphoresis4 ,i fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than our own medicines afford2 but after being stewed in their vapor-baths1 smoked like a red herring over green twigs1 and charmed 'secundem artem'1 ,i concluded that ,i could cure the fever more quickly than they can4 ,if we employ a wet sheet and a mild aperient in combination with quinine1 in addition to the native remedies1 they are an important aid in curing the fever1 as they seem to have the same stimulating effects on the alimentary canal as these means have on the external surface4 ,purgatives1 general bleedings1 or indeed any violent remedies1 are injurious2 and the appearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded as an evidence that no internal organ is in danger4 ,there is a good deal in not giving in to this disease4 ,he who is low-spirited1 and apt to despond at every attack1 will die sooner than the man who is not of such a melancholic nature4 ,the ,makololo had made a garden and planted maize for me1 that1 as they remarked when ,i was parting with them to proceed to the ,cape1 ,i might have food to eat when ,i returned1 as well as other people4 ,the maize was now pounded by the women into fine meal4 ,this they do in large wooden mortars1 the counterpart of which may be seen depicted on the ,egyptian monuments499 ,sekeletu added to this good supply of meal ten or twelve jars of honey1 each of which contained about two gallons4 ,liberal supplies of ground-nuts 7',arachis hypogoea'7 were also furnished every time the tributary tribes brought their dues to ,linyanti1 and an ox was given for slaughter every week or two4 ,sekeletu also appropriated two cows to be milked for us every morning and evening4 ,this was in accordance with the acknowledged rule throughout this country1 that the chief should feed all strangers who come on any special business to him and take up their abode in his kotla4 ,a present is usually given in return for the hospitality1 but1 except in cases where their aboriginal customs have been modified1 nothing would be asked4 ,europeans spoil the feeling that hospitality is the sacred duty of the chiefs by what in other circumstances is laudable conduct4 ,no sooner do they arrive than they offer to purchase food1 and1 instead of waiting till a meal is prepared for them in the evening1 cook for themselves1 and then often decline even to partake of that which has been made ready for their use4 ,a present is also given1 and before long the natives come to expect a gift without having offered any equivalent4 99 ,unfortunately1 the illustration shown with this paragraph cannot be shown in this ,,ascii file4 ,it has the following caption3 ',egyptian ,pestle and ,mortar1 ,sieves1 ,corn ,vessels1 and ,kilt1 identical with those in use by the ,makololo and ,makalaka4--,from ,sir ,g4 ,wilkinson's ,ancient ,egyptians4'--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,strangers frequently have acquaintances among the under-chiefs1 to whose establishments they turn aside1 and are treated on the same principle that others are when they are the guests of the chief4 ,so generally is the duty admitted1 that one of the most cogent arguments for polygamy is that a respectable man with only one wife could not entertain strangers as he ought4 ,this reason has especial weight where the women are the chief cultivators of the soil1 and have the control over the corn1 as at ,kolobeng4 ,the poor1 however1 who have no friends1 often suffer much hunger1 and the very kind attention ,sebituane lavished on all such was one of the reasons of his great popularity in the country4 ,the ,makololo cultivate a large extent of land around their villages4 ,those of them who are real ,basutos still retain the habits of that tribe1 and may be seen going out with their wives with their hoes in hand--a state of things never witnessed at ,kolobeng1 or among any other ,bechuana or ,caffre tribe4 ,the great chief ,moshesh affords an example to his people annually by not only taking the hoe in hand1 but working hard with it on certain public occasions4 ,his ,basutos are of the same family with the ,makololo to whom ,i refer4 ,the younger ,makololo1 who have been accustomed from their infancy to lord it over the conquered ,makalaka1 have unfortunately no desire to imitate the agricultural tastes of their fathers1 and expect their subjects to perform all the manual labor4 ,they are the aristocracy of the country1 and once possessed almost unlimited power over their vassals4 ,their privileges were1 however1 much abridged by ,sebituane himself4 ,i have already mentioned that the tribes which ,sebituane subjected in this great country pass by the general name of ,makalaka4 ,the ,makololo were composed of a great number of other tribes1 as well as of these central negroes4 ,the nucleus of the whole were ,basuto1 who came with ,sebituane from a comparatively cold and hilly region in the south4 ,when he conquered various tribes of the ,bechuanas1 as ,bakwains1 ,bangwaketze1 ,bamangwato1 ,batauana1 etc41 he incorporated the young of these tribes into his own4 ,great mortality by fever having taken place in the original stock1 he wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a large scale with the ,makalaka4 ,so we found him with even the sons of the chiefs of the ,barotse closely attached to his person2 and they say to this day1 if any thing else but natural death had assailed their father1 every one of them would have laid down his life in his defense4 ,one reason for their strong affection was their emancipation by the decree of ,sebituane1 all are children of the chief4 ,the ,makalaka cultivate the ',holcus sorghum'1 or dura1 as the principal grain1 with maize1 two kinds of beans1 ground-nuts 7',arachis hypogoea'71 pumpkins1 watermelons1 and cucumbers4 ,they depend for success entirely upon rain4 ,those who live in the ,barotse valley cultivate in addition the sugar-cane1 sweet potato1 and manioc 7',jatropha manihot'74 ,the climate there1 however1 is warmer than at ,linyanti1 and the ,makalaka increase the fertility of their gardens by rude attempts at artificial irrigation4 ,the instrument of culture over all this region is a hoe1 the iron of which the ,batoka and ,banyeti obtain from the ore by smelting4 ,the amount of iron which they produce annually may be understood when it is known that most of the hoes in use at ,linyanti are the tribute imposed on the smiths of those subject tribes4 ,sekeletu receives tribute from a great number of tribes in corn or dura1 ground-nuts1 hoes1 spears1 honey1 canoes1 paddles1 wooden vessels1 tobacco1 mutokuane 7',cannabis sativa'71 various wild fruits 7dried71 prepared skins1 and ivory4 ,when these articles are brought into the kotla1 ,sekeletu has the honor of dividing them among the loungers who usually congregate there4 ,a small portion only is reserved for himself4 ,the ivory belongs nominally to him too1 but this is simply a way of making a fair distribution of the profits4 ,the chief sells it only with the approbation of his counselors1 and the proceeds are distributed in open day among the people as before4 ,he has the choice of every thing2 but if he is not more liberal to others than to himself1 he loses in popularity4 ,i have known instances in this and other tribes in which individuals aggrieved1 because they had been overlooked1 fled to other chiefs4 ,one discontented person1 having fled to ,lechulatebe1 was encouraged to go to a village of the ,bapalleng1 on the ,river ,cho or ,tso1 and abstracted the tribute of ivory thence which ought to have come to ,sekeletu4 ,this theft enraged the whole of the ,makololo1 because they all felt it to be a personal loss4 ,some of ,lechulatebe's people having come on a visit to ,linyanti1 a demonstration was made1 in which about five hundred ,makololo1 armed1 went through a mimic fight2 the principal warriors pointed their spears toward the lake where ,lechulatebe lives1 and every thrust in that direction was answered by all with the shout1 ,ho-o6 while every stab on the ground drew out a simultaneous ,huzz6 ,on these occasions all capable of bearing arms1 even the old1 must turn out at the call4 ,in the time of ,sebituane1 any one remaining in his house was searched for and killed without mercy4 ,this offense of ,lechulatebe was aggravated by repetition1 and by a song sung in his town accompanying the dances1 which manifested joy at the death of ,sebituane4 ,he had enjoined his people to live in peace with those at the lake1 and ,sekeletu felt disposed to follow his advice2 but ,lechulatebe had now got possession of fire-arms1 and considered himself more than a match for the ,makololo4 ,his father had been dispossessed of many cattle by ,sebituane1 and1 as forgiveness is not considered among the virtues by the heathen1 ,lechulatebe thought he had a right to recover what he could4 ,as ,i had a good deal of influence with the ,makololo1 ,i persuaded them that1 before they could have peace1 they must resolve to give the same blessing to others1 and they never could do that without forgiving and forgetting ancient feuds4 ,it is hard to make them feel that shedding of human blood is a great crime2 they must be conscious that it is wrong1 but1 having been accustomed to bloodshed from infancy1 they are remarkably callous to the enormity of the crime of destroying human life4 ,i sent a message at the same time to ,lechulatebe advising him to give up the course he had adopted1 and especially the song2 because1 though ,sebituane was dead1 the arms with which he had fought were still alive and strong4 ,sekeletu1 in order to follow up his father's instructions and promote peace1 sent ten cows to ,lechulatebe to be exchanged for sheep2 these animals thrive well in a bushy country like that around the lake1 but will scarcely live in the flat prairies between the net-work of waters north of the ,chobe4 ,the men who took the cows carried a number of hoes to purchase goats besides4 ,lechulatebe took the cows and sent back an equal number of sheep4 ,now1 according to the relative value of sheep and cows in these parts1 he ought to have sent sixty or seventy4 ,one of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in a village without formal leave from ,lechulatebe2 this chief punished him by making him sit some hours on the broiling hot sand 7at least #acj ,deg474 ,this farther offense put a stop to amicable relations between the two tribes altogether4 ,it was a case in which a very small tribe1 commanded by a weak and foolish chief1 had got possession of fire-arms1 and felt conscious of ability to cope with a numerous and warlike race4 ,such cases are the only ones in which the possession of fire-arms does evil4 ,the universal effect of the diffusion of the more potent instruments of warfare in ,africa is the same as among ourselves4 ,fire-arms render wars less frequent and less bloody4 ,it is indeed exceedingly rare to hear of two tribes having guns going to war with each other2 and1 as nearly all the feuds1 in the south at least1 have been about cattle1 the risk which must be incurred from long shots generally proves a preventive to the foray4 ,the ,makololo were prevailed upon to keep the peace during my residence with them1 but it was easy to perceive that public opinion was against sparing a tribe of ,bechuanas for whom the ,makololo entertained the most sovereign contempt4 ,the young men would remark1 ,lechulatebe is herding our cows for us2 let us only go1 we shall 'lift' the price of them in sheep1 etc4 ,as the ,makololo are the most northerly of the ,bechuanas1 we may glance back at this family of ,africans before entering on the branch of the negro family which the ,makololo distinguish by the term ,makalaka4 ,the name ,bechuana seems derived from the word ,chuana--alike1 or equal--with the personal pronoun ,ba 7they7 prefixed1 and therefore means fellows or equals4 ,some have supposed the name to have arisen from a mistake of some traveler1 who1 on asking individuals of this nation concerning the tribes living beyond them1 received the answer1 ,bachuana1 they 7are7 alike2 meaning1 ,they are the same as we are2 and that this nameless traveler1 who never wrote a word about them1 managed to ingraft his mistake as a generic term on a nation extending from the ,orange ,river to #ah ,deg4 south latitude499 99 ,the ,makololo have conquered the country as far as #ad ,deg4 south1 but it is still peopled chiefly by the black tribes named ,makalaka4 ,as the name was found in use among those who had no intercourse with ,europeans1 before we can receive the above explanation we must believe that the unknown traveler knew the language sufficiently well to ask a question1 but not to understand the answer4 ,we may add1 that the way in which they still continue to use the word seems to require no fanciful interpretation4 ,when addressed with any degree of scorn1 they reply1 ,we are ,bachuana1 or equals--we are not inferior to any of our nation1 in exactly the same sense as ,irishmen or ,scotchmen1 in the same circumstances1 would reply1 ,we are ,britons1 or ,we are ,englishmen4 ,most other tribes are known by the terms applied to them by strangers only1 as the ,caffres1 ,hottentots1 and ,bushmen4 ,the ,bechuanas alone use the term to themselves as a generic one for the whole nation4 ,they have managed1 also1 to give a comprehensive name to the whites1 viz41 ,makoa1 though they can not explain the derivation of it any more than of their own4 ,it seems to mean handsome1 from the manner in which they use it to indicate beauty2 but there is a word so very like it meaning infirm1 or weak1 that ,burchell's conjecture is probably the right one4 ,the different ,hottentot tribes were known by names terminating in 'kua'1 which means 'man'1 and the ,bechuanas simply added the prefix ,ma1 denoting a nation4 ,they themselves were first known as ,briquas1 or goat-men4 ,the language of the ,bechuanas is termed ,sichuana2 that of the whites 7or ,makoa7 is called ,sekoa4 ,the ,makololo1 or ,basuto1 have carried their powers of generalization still farther1 and arranged the other parts of the same great family of ,south ,africans into three divisions3 #ast4 ,the ,matebele1 or ,makonkobi--the ,caffre family living on the eastern side of the country2 #b;d4 ,the ,bakoni1 or ,basuto2 and1 #c;d4 ,the ,bakalahari1 or ,bechuanas1 living in the central parts1 which includes all those tribes living in or adjacent to the great ,kalahari ,desert4 #ast4 ,the ,caffres are divided by themselves into various subdivisions1 as ,amakosa1 ,amapanda1 and other well-known titles4 ,they consider the name ,caffre as an insulting epithet4 ,the ,zulus of ,natal belong to the same family1 and they are as famed for their honesty as their brethren who live adjacent to our colonial frontier are renowned for cattle-lifting4 ,the ,recorder of ,natal declared of them that history does not present another instance in which so much security for life and property has been enjoyed1 as has been experienced1 during the whole period of ,english occupation1 by ten thousand colonists1 in the midst of one hundred thousand ,zulus4 ,the ,matebele of ,mosilikatse1 living a short distance south of the ,zambesi1 and other tribes living a little south of ,tete and ,senna1 are members of this same family4 ,they are not known beyond the ,zambesi ,river4 ,this was the limit of the ,bechuana progress north too1 until ,sebituane pushed his conquests farther4 #b;d4 ,the ,bakoni and ,basuto division contains1 in the south1 all those tribes which acknowledge ,moshesh as their paramount chief4 ,among them we find the ,batau1 the ,baputi1 ,makolokue1 etc41 and some mountaineers on the range ,maluti1 who are believed1 by those who have carefully sifted the evidence1 to have been at one time guilty of cannibalism4 ,this has been doubted1 but their songs admit the fact to this day1 and they ascribe their having left off the odious practice of entrapping human prey to ,moshesh having given them cattle4 ,they are called ,marimo and ,mayabathu1 men-eaters1 by the rest of the ,basuto1 who have various subdivisions1 as ,makatla1 ,bamakakana1 ,matlapatlapa1 etc4 ,the ,bakoni farther north than the ,basuto are the ,batlou1 ,baperi1 ,bapo1 and another tribe of ,bakuena1 ,bamosetla1 ,bamapela or ,balaka1 ,babiriri1 ,bapiri1 ,bahukeng1 ,batlokua1 ,baakhahela1 etc41 etc42 the whole of which tribes are favored with abundance of rain1 and1 being much attached to agriculture1 raise very large quantities of grain4 ,it is on their industry that the more distant ,boers revel in slothful abundance1 and follow their slave-hunting and cattle-stealing propensities quite beyond the range of ,english influence and law4 ,the ,basuto under ,moshesh are equally fond of cultivating the soil4 ,the chief labor of hoeing1 driving away birds1 reaping1 and winnowing1 falls to the willing arms of the hard-working women2 but as the men1 as well as their wives1 as already stated1 always work1 many have followed the advice of the missionaries1 and now use plows and oxen instead of the hoe4 #c;d4 ,the ,bakalahari1 or western branch of the ,bechuana family1 consists of ,barolong1 ,bahurutse1 ,bakuena1 ,bangwaketse1 ,bakaa1 ,bamangwato1 ,bakurutse1 ,batauana1 ,bamatlaro1 and ,batlapi4 ,among the last the success of missionaries has been greatest4 ,they were an insignificant and filthy people when first discovered2 but1 being nearest to the colony1 they have had opportunities of trading2 and the long-continued peace they have enjoyed1 through the influence of religious teaching1 has enabled them to amass great numbers of cattle4 ,the young1 however1 who do not realize their former degradation1 often consider their present superiority over the less-favored tribes in the interior to be entirely owing to their own greater wisdom and more intellectual development4 ,chapter #aa4 ,departure from ,linyanti for ,sesheke--,level ,country--,ant-hills--,wild ,date-trees--,appearance of our ,attendants on the ,march--,the ,chief's ,guard--,they attempt to ride on ,ox-back--,vast ,herds of the new ,antelopes1 ,leches1 and ,nakongs--,the native way of hunting them--,reception at the ,villages--,presents of ,beer and ,milk--,eating with the ,hand--,the ,chief provides the ,oxen for ,slaughter--,social ,mode of ,eating--,the ,sugar-cane--,sekeletu's novel ,test of ,character-- ,cleanliness of ,makololo ,huts--,their ,construction and ,appearance--,the ,beds--,cross the ,leeambye--,aspect of this part of the ,country--,the small ,antelope ,tianyane unknown in the ,south--,hunting on foot--,an ,eland4 ,having waited a month at ,linyanti 7lat4 #ah;d #ag' #bj ,s41 long4 #bc;d #ej' #i ,e471 we again departed1 for the purpose of ascending the river from ,sesheke 7lat4 #ag;d #ca' #ch ,s41 long4 #be;d #ac' ,e474 ,to the ,barotse country1 the capital of which is ,nariele or ,naliele 7lat4 #ae;d #bd' #ag ,s41 long4 #bc;d #e' #ed ,e471 ,i went in company with ,sekeletu and about one hundred and sixty attendants4 ,we had most of the young men with us1 and many of the under-chiefs besides4 ,the country between ,linyanti and ,sesheke is perfectly flat1 except patches elevated only a few feet above the surrounding level4 ,there are also many mounds where the gigantic ant-hills of the country have been situated or still appear3 these mounds are evidently the work of the termites4 ,no one who has not seen their gigantic structures can fancy the industry of these little laborers2 they seem to impart fertility to the soil which has once passed through their mouths1 for the ,makololo find the sides of ant-hills the choice spots for rearing early maize1 tobacco1 or any thing on which they wish to bestow especial care4 ,in the parts through which we passed the mounds are generally covered with masses of wild date-trees2 the fruit is small1 and no tree is allowed to stand long1 for1 having abundance of food1 the ,makololo have no inclination to preserve wild fruit-trees2 accordingly1 when a date shoots up to seed1 as soon as the fruit is ripe they cut down the tree rather than be at the trouble of climbing it4 ,the other parts of the more elevated land have the camel-thorn 7',acacia giraffae'71 white-thorned mimosa 7',acacia horrida'71 and baobabs4 ,in sandy spots there are palmyras somewhat similar to the ,indian1 but with a smaller seed4 ,the soil on all the flat parts is a rich1 dark1 tenacious loam1 known as the cotton-ground in ,india2 it is covered with a dense matting of coarse grass1 common on all damp spots in this country4 ,we had the ,chobe on our right1 with its scores of miles of reed occupying the horizon there4 ,it was pleasant to look back on the long-extended line of our attendants1 as it twisted and bent according to the curves of the footpath1 or in and out behind the mounds1 the ostrich feathers of the men waving in the wind4 ,some had the white ends of ox-tails on their heads1 ,hussar fashion1 and others great bunches of black ostrich feathers1 or caps made of lions' manes4 ,some wore red tunics1 or various-colored prints which the chief had bought from ,fleming2 the common men carried burdens2 the gentlemen walked with a small club of rhinoceros-horn in their hands1 and had servants to carry their shields2 while the ,machaka1 battle-axe men1 carried their own1 and were liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an errand1 and expected to run all the way4 ,sekeletu is always accompanied by his own ,mopato1 a number of young men of his own age4 ,when he sits down they crowd around him2 those who are nearest eat out of the same dish1 for the ,makololo chiefs pride themselves on eating with their people4 ,he eats a little1 then beckons his neighbors to partake4 ,when they have done so1 he perhaps beckons to some one at a distance to take a share2 that person starts forward1 seizes the pot1 and removes it to his own companions4 ,the comrades of ,sekeletu1 wishing to imitate him in riding on my old horse1 leaped on the backs of a number of half-broken ,batoka oxen as they ran1 but1 having neither saddle nor bridle1 the number of tumbles they met with was a source of much amusement to the rest4 ,troops of leches1 or1 as they are here called1 lechwes1 appeared feeding quite heedlessly all over the flats2 they exist here in prodigious herds1 although the numbers of them and of the nakong that are killed annually must be enormous4 ,both are water antelopes1 and1 when the lands we now tread upon are flooded1 they betake themselves to the mounds ,i have alluded to4 ,the ,makalaka1 who are most expert in the management of their small1 thin1 light canoes1 come gently toward them2 the men stand upright in the canoe1 though it is not more than fifteen or eighteen inches wide and about fifteen feet long2 their paddles1 ten feet in height1 are of a kind of wood called molompi1 very light1 yet as elastic as ash4 ,with these they either punt or paddle1 according to the shallowness or depth of the water4 ,when they perceive the antelopes beginning to move they increase their speed1 and pursue them with great velocity4 ,they make the water dash away from the gunwale1 and1 though the leche goes off by a succession of prodigious bounds1 its feet appearing to touch the bottom at each spring1 they manage to spear great numbers of them4 ,the nakong often shares a similar fate4 ,this is a new species1 rather smaller than the leche1 and in shape has more of paunchiness than any antelope ,i ever saw4 ,its gait closely resembles the gallop of a dog when tired4 ,the hair is long and rather sparse1 so that it is never sleek-looking4 ,it is of a grayish-brown color1 and has horns twisted in the manner of a koodoo1 but much smaller1 and with a double ridge winding round each of them4 ,its habitat is the marsh and the muddy bogs2 the great length of its foot between the point of the toe and supplemental hoofs enables it to make a print about a foot in length2 it feeds by night1 and lies hid among the reeds and rushes by day2 when pursued1 it dashes into sedgy places containing water1 and immerses the whole body1 leaving only the point of the nose and ends of the horns exposed4 ,the hunters burn large patches of reed in order to drive the nakong out of his lair2 occasionally the ends of the horns project above the water2 but when it sees itself surrounded by enemies in canoes1 it will rather allow its horns to be scorched in the burning reed than come forth from its hiding-place4 ,when we arrived at any village the women all turned out to lulliloo their chief4 ,their shrill voices1 to which they give a tremulous sound by a quick motion of the tongue1 peal forth1 ,great lion6 ,great chief6 ,sleep1 my lord6 etc4 ,the men utter similar salutations2 and ,sekeletu receives all with becoming indifference4 ,after a few minutes' conversation and telling the news1 the head man of the village1 who is almost always a ,makololo1 rises1 and brings forth a number of large pots of beer4 ,calabashes1 being used as drinking-cups1 are handed round1 and as many as can partake of the beverage do so1 grasping the vessels so eagerly that they are in danger of being broken4 ,they bring forth also large pots and bowls of thick milk2 some contain six or eight gallons2 and each of these1 as well as of the beer1 is given to a particular person1 who has the power to divide it with whom he pleases4 ,the head man of any section of the tribe is generally selected for this office4 ,spoons not being generally in fashion1 the milk is conveyed to the mouth with the hand4 ,i often presented my friends with iron spoons1 and it was curious to observe how their habit of hand-eating prevailed1 though they were delighted with the spoons4 ,they lifted out a little with the utensil1 then put it on the left hand1 and ate it out of that4 ,as the ,makololo have great abundance of cattle1 and the chief is expected to feed all who accompany him1 he either selects an ox or two of his own from the numerous cattle stations that he possesses at different spots all over the country1 or is presented by the head men of the villages he visits with as many as he needs by way of tribute4 ,the animals are killed by a thrust from a small javelin in the region of the heart1 the wound being purposely small in order to avoid any loss of blood1 which1 with the internal parts1 are the perquisites of the men who perform the work of the butcher2 hence all are eager to render service in that line4 ,each tribe has its own way of cutting up and distributing an animal4 ,among the ,makololo the hump and ribs belong to the chief2 among the ,bakwains the breast is his perquisite4 ,after the oxen are cut up1 the different joints are placed before ,sekeletu1 and he apportions them among the gentlemen of the party4 ,the whole is rapidly divided by their attendants1 cut into long strips1 and so many of these are thrown into the fires at once that they are nearly put out4 ,half broiled and burning hot1 the meat is quickly handed round2 every one gets a mouthful1 but no one except the chief has time to masticate4 ,it is not the enjoyment of eating they aim at1 but to get as much of the food into the stomach as possible during the short time the others are cramming as well as themselves1 for no one can eat more than a mouthful after the others have finished4 ,they are eminently gregarious in their eating2 and1 as they despise any one who eats alone1 ,i always poured out two cups of coffee at my own meals1 so that the chief1 or some one of the principal men1 might partake along with me4 ,they all soon become very fond of coffee2 and1 indeed1 some of the tribes attribute greater fecundity to the daily use of this beverage4 ,they were all well acquainted with the sugar-cane1 as they cultivate it in the ,barotse country1 but knew nothing of the method of extracting the sugar from it4 ,they use the cane only for chewing4 ,sekeletu1 relishing the sweet coffee and biscuits1 of which ,i then had a store1 said he knew my heart loved him by finding his own heart warming to my food4 ,he had been visited during my absence at the ,cape by some traders and ,griquas1 and their coffee did not taste half so nice as mine1 because they loved his ivory and not himself4 ,this was certainly an original mode of discerning character4 ,sekeletu and ,i had each a little gipsy-tent in which to sleep4 ,the ,makololo huts are generally clean1 while those of the ,makalaka are infested with vermin4 ,the cleanliness of the former is owing to the habit of frequently smearing the floors with a plaster composed of cowdung and earth4 ,if we slept in the tent in some villages1 the mice ran over our faces and disturbed our sleep1 or hungry prowling dogs would eat our shoes and leave only the soles4 ,when they were guilty of this and other misdemeanors1 we got the loan of a hut4 ,the best sort of ,makololo huts consist of three circular walls1 with small holes as doors1 each similar to that in a dog-house2 and it is necessary to bend down the body to get in1 even when on all-fours4 ,the roof is formed of reeds or straight sticks1 in shape like a ,chinaman's hat1 bound firmly together with circular bands1 which are lashed with the strong inner bark of the mimosa-tree4 ,when all prepared except the thatch1 it is lifted on to the circular wall1 the rim resting on a circle of poles1 between each of which the third wall is built4 ,the roof is thatched with fine grass1 and sewed with the same material as the lashings2 and1 as it projects far beyond the walls1 and reaches within four feet of the ground1 the shade is the best to be found in the country4 ,these huts are very cool in the hottest day1 but are close and deficient in ventilation by night4 ,the bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with twine2 the hip-bone soon becomes sore on the hard flat surface1 as we are not allowed to make a hole in the floor to receive the prominent part called trochanter by anatomists1 as we do when sleeping on grass or sand4 ,our course at this time led us to a part above ,sesheke1 called ,katonga1 where there is a village belonging to a ,bashubia man named ,sekhosi--latitude #ag;d #bi' #ac1 longitude #bd;d #cc'4 ,the river here is somewhat broader than at ,sesheke1 and certainly not less than six hundred yards4 ,it flows somewhat slowly in the first part of its eastern course4 ,when the canoes came from ,sekhosi to take us over1 one of the comrades of ,sebituane rose1 and1 looking to ,sekeletu1 called out1 ,the elders of a host always take the lead in an attack4 ,this was understood at once2 and ,sekeletu1 with all the young men1 were obliged to give the elders the precedence1 and remain on the southern bank and see that all went orderly into the canoes4 ,it took a considerable time to ferry over the whole of our large party1 as1 even with quick paddling1 from six to eight minutes were spent in the mere passage from bank to bank4 ,several days were spent in collecting canoes from different villages on the river1 which we now learned is called by the whole of the ,barotse the ,liambai or ,leeambye4 ,this we could not ascertain on our first visit1 and1 consequently1 called the river after the town ,sesheke4 ,this term ,sesheke means white sand-banks1 many of which exist at this part4 ,there is another village in the valley of the ,barotse likewise called ,sesheke1 and for the same reason2 but the term ,leeambye means the large river1 or the river ,,par ,,excellence4 ,luambeji1 ,luambesi1 ,ambezi1 ,ojimbesi1 and ,zambesi1 etc41 are names applied to it at different parts of its course1 according to the dialect spoken1 and all possess a similar signification1 and express the native idea of this magnificent stream being the main drain of the country4 ,in order to assist in the support of our large party1 and at the same time to see the adjacent country1 ,i went several times1 during our stay1 to the north of the village for game4 ,the country is covered with clumps of beautiful trees1 among which fine open glades stretch away in every direction2 when the river is in flood these are inundated1 but the tree-covered elevated spots are much more numerous here than in the country between the ,chobe and the ,leeambye4 ,the soil is dark loam1 as it is every where on spots reached by the inundation1 while among the trees it is sandy1 and not covered so densely with grass as elsewhere4 ,a sandy ridge covered with trees1 running parallel to1 and about eight miles from the river1 is the limit of the inundation on the north2 there are large tracts of this sandy forest in that direction1 till you come to other districts of alluvial soil and fewer trees4 ,the latter soil is always found in the vicinity of rivers which either now overflow their banks annually1 or formerly did so4 ,the people enjoy rain in sufficient quantity to raise very large supplies of grain and ground-nuts4 ,this district contains great numbers of a small antelope named ,tianyane1 unknown in the south4 ,it stands about eighteen inches high1 is very graceful in its movements1 and utters a cry of alarm not unlike that of the domestic fowl2 it is of a brownish-red color on the sides and back1 with the belly and lower part of the tail white2 it is very timid1 but the maternal affection that the little thing bears to its young will often induce it to offer battle even to a man approaching it4 ,when the young one is too tender to run about with the dam1 she puts one foot on the prominence about the seventh cervical vertebra1 or withers2 the instinct of the young enables it to understand that it is now required to kneel down1 and to remain quite still till it hears the bleating of its dam4 ,if you see an otherwise gregarious she-antelope separated from the herd1 and going alone any where1 you may be sure she has laid her little one to sleep in some cozy spot4 ,the color of the hair in the young is better adapted for assimilating it with the ground than that of the older animals1 which do not need to be screened from the observation of birds of prey4 ,i observed the ,arabs at ,aden1 when making their camels kneel down1 press the thumb on the withers in exactly the same way the antelopes do with their young2 probably they have been led to the custom by seeing this plan adopted by the gazelle of the ,desert4 ,great numbers of buffaloes1 zebras1 tsessebes1 tahaetsi1 and eland1 or pohu1 grazed undisturbed on these plains1 so that very little exertion was required to secure a fair supply of meat for the party during the necessary delay4 ,hunting on foot1 as all those who have engaged in it in this country will at once admit1 is very hard work indeed4 ,the heat of the sun by day is so great1 even in winter1 as it now was1 that1 had there been any one on whom ,i could have thrown the task1 he would have been most welcome to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart4 ,but the ,makololo shot so badly1 that1 in order to save my powder1 ,i was obliged to go myself4 ,we shot a beautiful cow-eland1 standing in the shade of a fine tree4 ,it was evident that she had lately had her calf killed by a lion1 for there were five long deep scratches on both sides of her hind-quarters1 as if she had run to the rescue of her calf1 and the lion1 leaving it1 had attacked herself1 but was unable to pull her down4 ,when lying on the ground1 the milk flowing from the large udder showed that she must have been seeking the shade1 from the distress its non-removal in the natural manner caused4 ,she was a beautiful creature1 and ,lebeole1 a ,makololo gentleman who accompanied me1 speaking in reference to its size and beauty1 said1 ,jesus ought to have given us these instead of cattle4 ,it was a new1 undescribed variety of this splendid antelope4 ,it was marked with narrow white bands across the body1 exactly like those of the koodoo1 and had a black patch of more than a handbreadth on the outer side of the fore-arm4 ,chapter #ab4 ,procure ,canoes and ascend the ,leeambye--,beautiful ,islands--,winter ,landscape--,industry and ,skill of the ,banyeti--,rapids--,falls of ,gonye--,tradition--,annual ,inundations--,fertility of the great ,barotse ,valley--,execution of two ,conspirators--,the ,slave-dealer's ,stockade--,naliele1 the ,capital1 built on an artificial ,mound--,santuru1 a great ,hunter--,the ,barotse ,method of commemorating any remarkable ,event--,better ,treatment of ,women--,more religious ,feeling--,belief in a future ,state1 and in the ,existence of spiritual ,beings--,gardens--,fish1 ,fruit1 and ,game--,proceed to the ,limits of the ,barotse ,country-- ,sekeletu provides ,rowers and a ,herald--,the ,river and ,vicinity-- ,hippopotamus-hunters--,no healthy ,location--,determine to go to ,loanda-- ,buffaloes1 ,elands1 and ,lions above ,libonta--,interview with the ,mambari-- ,two ,arabs from ,zanzibar--,their ,opinion of the ,portuguese and the ,english --,reach the ,town of ,ma-,sekeletu--,joy of the ,people at the first ,visit of their ,chief--,return to ,sesheke--,heathenism4 ,having at last procured a sufficient number of canoes1 we began to ascend the river4 ,i had the choice of the whole fleet1 and selected the best1 though not the largest2 it was thirty-four feet long by twenty inches wide4 ,i had six paddlers1 and the larger canoe of ,sekeletu had ten4 ,they stand upright1 and keep the stroke with great precision1 though they change from side to side as the course demands4 ,the men at the head and stern are selected from the strongest and most expert of the whole4 ,the canoes1 being flat bottomed1 can go into very shallow water2 and whenever the men can feel the bottom they use the paddles1 which are about eight feet long1 as poles to punt with4 ,our fleet consisted of thirty-three canoes1 and about one hundred and sixty men4 ,it was beautiful to see them skimming along so quickly1 and keeping the time so well4 ,on land the ,makalaka fear the ,makololo2 on water the ,makololo fear them1 and can not prevent them from racing with each other1 dashing along at the top of their speed1 and placing their masters' lives in danger4 ,in the event of a capsize1 many of the ,makololo would sink like stones4 ,a case of this kind happened on the first day of our voyage up4 ,the wind1 blowing generally from the east1 raises very large waves on the ,leeambye4 ,an old doctor of the ,makololo had his canoe filled by one of these waves1 and1 being unable to swim1 was lost4 ,the ,barotse who were in the canoe with him saved themselves by swimming1 and were afraid of being punished with death in the evening for not saving the doctor as well4 ,had he been a man of more influence1 they certainly would have suffered death4 ,we proceeded rapidly up the river1 and ,i felt the pleasure of looking on lands which had never been seen by a ,european before4 ,the river is1 indeed1 a magnificent one1 often more than a mile broad1 and adorned with many islands of from three to five miles in length4 ,both islands and banks are covered with forest1 and most of the trees on the brink of the water send down roots from their branches like the banian1 or ',ficus ,indica'4 ,the islands at a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan vegetation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream4 ,the beauty of the scenery of some of the islands is greatly increased by the date-palm1 with its gracefully curved fronds and refreshing light green color1 near the bottom of the picture1 and the lofty palmyra towering far above1 and casting its feathery foliage against a cloudless sky4 ,it being winter1 we had the strange coloring on the banks which many parts of ,african landscape assume4 ,the country adjacent to the river is rocky and undulating1 abounding in elephants and all other large game1 except leches and nakongs1 which seem generally to avoid stony ground4 ,the soil is of a reddish color1 and very fertile1 as is attested by the great quantity of grain raised annually by the ,banyeti4 ,a great many villages of this poor and very industrious people are situated on both banks of the river3 they are expert hunters of the hippopotami and other animals1 and very proficient in the manufacture of articles of wood and iron4 ,the whole of this part of the country being infested with the tsetse1 they are unable to rear domestic animals4 ,this may have led to their skill in handicraft works4 ,some make large wooden vessels with very neat lids1 and wooden bowls of all sizes2 and since the idea of sitting on stools has entered the ,makololo mind1 they have shown great taste in the different forms given to the legs of these pieces of furniture4 ,other ,banyeti1 or ,manyeti1 as they are called1 make neat and strong baskets of the split roots of a certain tree1 while others excel in pottery and iron4 ,i can not find that they have ever been warlike4 ,indeed1 the wars in the centre of the country1 where no slave-trade existed1 have seldom been about any thing else but cattle4 ,so well known is this1 that several tribes refuse to keep cattle because they tempt their enemies to come and steal4 ,nevertheless1 they have no objection to eat them when offered1 and their country admits of being well stocked4 ,i have heard of but one war having occurred from another cause4 ,three brothers1 ,barolongs1 fought for the possession of a woman who was considered worth a battle1 and the tribe has remained permanently divided ever since4 ,from the bend up to the north1 called ,katima-molelo 7,i quenched fire71 the bed of the river is rocky1 and the stream runs fast1 forming a succession of rapids and cataracts1 which prevent continuous navigation when the water is low4 ,the rapids are not visible when the river is full1 but the cataracts of ,nambwe1 ,bombwe1 and ,kale must always be dangerous4 ,the fall at each of these is between four and six feet4 ,but the falls of ,gonye present a much more serious obstacle4 ,there we were obliged to take the canoes out of the water1 and carry them more than a mile by land4 ,the fall is about thirty feet4 ,the main body of water1 which comes over the ledge of rock when the river is low1 is collected into a space seventy or eighty yards wide before it takes the leap1 and1 a mass of rock being thrust forward against the roaring torrent1 a loud sound is produced4 ,tradition reports the destruction in this place of two hippopotamus-hunters1 who1 over-eager in the pursuit of a wounded animal1 were1 with their intended prey1 drawn down into the frightful gulf4 ,there is also a tradition of a man1 evidently of a superior mind1 who left his own countrymen1 the ,barotse1 and came down the river1 took advantage of the falls1 and led out a portion of the water there for irrigation4 ,such minds must have arisen from time to time in these regions1 as well as in our own country1 but1 ignorant of the use of letters1 they have left no memorial behind them4 ,we dug out some of an inferior kind of potato 7',sisinyane'7 from his garden1 for when once planted it never dies out4 ,this root is bitter and waxy1 though it is cultivated4 ,it was not in flower1 so ,i can not say whether it is a solanaceous plant or not4 ,one never expects to find a grave nor a stone of remembrance set up in ,africa2 the very rocks are illiterate1 they contain so few fossils4 ,those here are of reddish variegated1 hardened sandstone1 with madrepore holes in it4 ,this1 and broad horizontal strata of trap1 sometimes a hundred miles in extent1 and each layer having an inch or so of black silicious matter on it1 as if it had floated there while in a state of fusion1 form a great part of the bottom of the central valley4 ,these rocks1 in the southern part of the country especially1 are often covered with twelve or fifteen feet of soft calcareous tufa4 ,at ,bombwe we have the same trap1 with radiated zeolite1 probably mesotype1 and it again appears at the confluence of the ,chobe1 farther down4 ,as we passed up the river1 the different villages of ,banyeti turned out to present ,sekeletu with food and skins1 as their tribute4 ,one large village is placed at ,gonye1 the inhabitants of which are required to assist the ,makololo to carry their canoes past the falls4 ,the tsetse here lighted on us even in the middle of the stream4 ,this we crossed repeatedly1 in order to make short cuts at bends of the river4 ,the course is1 however1 remarkably straight among the rocks2 and here the river is shallow1 on account of the great breadth of surface which it covers4 ,when we came to about #af;d #af' ,s4 latitude1 the high wooded banks seemed to leave the river1 and no more tsetse appeared4 ,viewed from the flat1 reedy basin in which the river then flowed1 the banks seemed prolonged into ridges1 of the same wooded character1 two or three hundred feet high1 and stretched away to the ,n4,n4,e4 and ,n4,n4,w4 until they were twenty or thirty miles apart4 ,the intervening space1 nearly one hundred miles in length1 with the ,leeambye winding gently near the middle1 is the true ,barotse valley4 ,it bears a close resemblance to the valley of the ,nile1 and is inundated annually1 not by rains1 but by the ,leeambye1 exactly as ,lower ,egypt is flooded by the ,nile4 ,the villages of the ,barotse are built on mounds1 some of which are said to have been raised artificially by ,santuru1 a former chief of the ,barotse1 and during the inundation the whole valley assumes the appearance of a large lake1 with the villages on the mounds like islands1 just as occurs in ,egypt with the villages of the ,egyptians4 ,some portion of the waters of inundation comes from the northwest1 where great floodings also occur1 but more comes from the north and northeast1 descending the bed of the ,leeambye itself4 ,there are but few trees in this valley3 those which stand on the mounds were nearly all transplanted by ,santuru for shade4 ,the soil is extremely fertile1 and the people are never in want of grain1 for1 by taking advantage of the moisture of the inundation1 they can take two crops a year4 ,the ,barotse are strongly attached to this fertile valley2 they say1 ,here hunger is not known4 ,there are so many things besides corn which a man can find in it for food1 that it is no wonder they desert from ,linyanti to return to this place4 ,the great valley is not put to a tithe of the use it might be4 ,it is covered with coarse succulent grasses1 which afford ample pasturage for large herds of cattle2 these thrive wonderfully1 and give milk copiously to their owners4 ,when the valley is flooded1 the cattle are compelled to leave it and go to the higher lands1 where they fall off in condition2 their return is a time of joy4 ,it is impossible to say whether this valley1 which contains so much moisture1 would raise wheat as the valley of the ,nile does4 ,it is probably too rich1 and would make corn run entirely to straw1 for one species of grass was observed twelve feet high1 with a stem as thick as a man's thumb4 ,at present the pasturage is never eaten off1 though the ,makololo possess immense herds of cattle4 ,there are no large towns1 the mounds on which the towns and villages are built being all small1 and the people require to live apart on account of their cattle4 ,this visit was the first ,sekeletu had made to these parts since he attained the chieftainship4 ,those who had taken part with ,mpepe were consequently in great terror4 ,when we came to the town of ,mpepe's father1 as he and another man had counseled ,mamochisane to put ,sekeletu to death and marry ,mpepe1 the two were led forth and tossed into the river4 ,nokuane was again one of the executioners4 ,when ,i remonstrated against human blood being shed in the offhand way in which they were proceeding1 the counselors justified their acts by the evidence given by ,mamochisane1 and calmly added1 ,you see we are still ,boers2 we are not yet taught4 ,mpepe had given full permission to the ,mambari slave-dealers to trade in all the ,batoka and ,bashukulompo villages to the east of this4 ,he had given them cattle1 ivory1 and children1 and had received in return a large blunderbuss to be mounted as a cannon4 ,when the slight circumstance of my having covered the body of the chief with my own deranged the whole conspiracy1 the ,mambari1 in their stockade1 were placed in very awkward circumstances4 ,it was proposed to attack them and drive them out of the country at once2 but1 dreading a commencement of hostilities1 ,i urged the difficulties of that course1 and showed that a stockade defended by perhaps forty muskets would be a very serious affair4 ,hunger is strong enough for that1 said an under-chief2 a very great fellow is he4 ,they thought of attacking them by starvation4 ,as the chief sufferers in case of such an attack would have been the poor slaves chained in gangs1 ,i interceded for them1 and the result of an intercession of which they were ignorant was that they were allowed to depart in peace4 ,naliele1 the capital of the ,barotse1 is built on a mound which was constructed artificially by ,santuru1 and was his store-house for grain4 ,his own capital stood about five hundred yards to the south of that1 in what is now the bed of the river4 ,all that remains of the largest mound in the valley are a few cubic yards of earth1 to erect which cost the whole of the people of ,santuru the labor of many years4 ,the same thing has happened to another ancient site of a town1 ,linangelo1 also on the left bank4 ,it would seem1 therefore1 that the river in this part of the valley must be wearing eastward4 ,no great rise of the river is required to submerge the whole valley2 a rise of ten feet above the present low-water mark would reach the highest point it ever attains1 as seen in the markings of the bank on which stood ,santuru's ancient capital1 and two or three feet more would deluge all the villages4 ,this never happens1 though the water sometimes comes so near the foundations of the huts that the people can not move outside the walls of reeds which encircle their villages4 ,when the river is compressed among the high rocky banks near ,gonye1 it rises sixty feet4 ,the influence of the partial obstruction it meets with there is seen in the more winding course of the river north of #af ,deg42 and when the swell gets past ,katima-molelo1 it spreads out on the lands on both banks toward ,sesheke4 ,santuru1 at whose ancient granary we are staying1 was a great hunter1 and very fond of taming wild animals4 ,his people1 aware of his taste1 brought to him every young antelope they could catch1 and1 among other things1 two young hippopotami4 ,these animals gamboled in the river by day1 but never failed to remember to come up to ,naliele for their suppers of milk and meal4 ,they were the wonder of the country1 till a stranger1 happening to come to visit ,santuru1 saw them reclining in the sun1 and speared one of them on the supposition that it was wild4 ,the same unlucky accident happened to one of the cats ,i had brought to ,sekeletu4 ,a stranger1 seeing an animal he had never viewed before1 killed it1 and brought the trophy to the chief1 thinking that he had made a very remarkable discovery2 we thereby lost the breed of cats1 of which1 from the swarms of mice1 we stood in great need4 ,on making inquiries to ascertain whether ,santuru1 the ,moloiana1 had ever been visited by white men1 ,i could find no vestige of any such visit299 there is no evidence of any of ,santuru's people having ever seen a white man before the arrival of ,mr4 ,oswell and myself in #ahea4 ,the people have1 it is true1 no written records2 but any remarkable event here is commemorated in names1 as was observed by ,park to be the case in the countries he traversed4 ,the year of our arrival is dignified by the name of the year when the white men came1 or of ,sebituane's death2 but they prefer the former1 as they avoid1 if possible1 any direct reference to the departed4 ,after my wife's first visit1 great numbers of children were named ,ma-,robert1 or mother of ,robert1 her eldest child2 others were named ,gun1 ,horse1 ,wagon1 ,monare1 ,jesus1 etc42 but though our names1 and those of the native ,portuguese who came in #ahec1 were adopted1 there is not a trace of any thing of the sort having happened previously among the ,barotse3 the visit of a white man is such a remarkable event1 that1 had any taken place during the last three hundred years1 there must have remained some tradition of it4 99 ,the ,barotse call themselves the ,baloiana or little ,baloi1 as if they had been an offset from ,loi1 or ,lui1 as it is often spelt4 ,as ,lui had been visited by ,portuguese1 but its position not well ascertained1 my inquiries referred to the identity of ,naliele with ,lui4 ,on asking the head man of the ,mambari party1 named ,porto1 whether he had ever heard of ,naliele being visited previously1 he replied in the negative1 and stated that he had himself attempted to come from ,bihe three times1 but had always been prevented by the tribe called ,ganguellas4 ,he nearly succeeded in #aheb1 but was driven back4 ,he now 7in #ahec7 attempted to go eastward from ,naliele1 but came back to the ,barotse on being unable to go beyond ,kainko's village1 which is situated on the ,bashukulompo ,river1 and eight days distant4 ,the whole party was anxious to secure a reward believed to be promised by the ,portuguese government4 ,their want of success confirmed my impression that ,i ought to go westward4 ,porto kindly offered to aid me1 if ,i would go with him to ,bihe2 but when ,i declined1 he preceded me to ,loanda1 and was publishing his ,journal when ,i arrived at that city4 ,ben ,habib told me that ,porto had sent letters to ,mozambique by the ,arab1 ,ben ,chombo1 whom ,i knew2 and he has since asserted1 in ,portugal1 that he himself went to ,mozambique as well as his letters6 ,but ,santuru was once visited by the ,mambari1 and a distinct recollection of that visit is retained4 ,they came to purchase slaves1 and both ,santuru and his head men refused them permission to buy any of the people4 ,the ,makololo quoted this precedent when speaking of the ,mambari1 and said that they1 as the present masters of the country1 had as good a right to expel them as ,santuru4 ,the ,mambari reside near ,bihe1 under an ,ambonda chief named ,kangombe4 ,they profess to use the slaves for domestic purposes alone4 ,some of these ,mambari visited us while at ,naliele4 ,they are of the ,ambonda family1 which inhabits the country southeast of ,angola1 and speak the ,bunda dialect1 which is of the same family of languages with the ,barotse1 ,bayeiye1 etc41 or those black tribes comprehended under the general term ,makalaka4 ,they plait their hair in three-fold cords1 and lay them carefully down around the sides of the head4 ,they are quite as dark as the ,barotse1 but have among them a number of half-castes1 with their peculiar yellow sickly hue4 ,on inquiring why they had fled on my approach to ,linyanti1 they let me know that they had a vivid idea of the customs of ,english cruisers on the coast4 ,they showed also their habits in their own country by digging up and eating1 even here where large game abounds1 the mice and moles which infest the country4 ,the half-castes1 or native ,portuguese1 could all read and write1 and the head of the party1 if not a real ,portuguese1 had ,european hair1 and1 influenced probably by the letter of recommendation which ,i held from the ,chevalier ,duprat1 his most faithful majesty's ,arbitrator in the ,british and ,portuguese ,mixed ,commission at ,cape ,town1 was evidently anxious to show me all the kindness in his power4 ,these persons ,i feel assured were the first individuals of ,portuguese blood who ever saw the ,zambesi in the centre of the country1 and they had reached it two years after our discovery in #ahea4 ,the town or mound of ,santuru's mother was shown to me2 this was the first symptom of an altered state of feeling with regard to the female sex that ,i had observed4 ,there are few or no cases of women being elevated to the headships of towns further south4 ,the ,barotse also showed some relics of their chief1 which evinced a greater amount of the religious feeling than ,i had ever known displayed among ,bechuanas4 ,his more recent capital1 ,lilonda1 built1 too1 on an artificial mound1 is covered with different kinds of trees1 transplanted when young by himself4 ,they form a grove on the end of the mound1 in which are to be seen various instruments of iron just in the state he left them4 ,one looks like the guard of a basket-hilted sword2 another has an upright stem of the metal1 on which are placed branches worked at the ends into miniature axes1 hoes1 and spears2 on these he was accustomed to present offerings1 according as he desired favors to be conferred in undertaking hewing1 agriculture1 or fighting4 ,the people still living there1 in charge of these articles1 were supported by presents from the chief2 and the ,makololo sometimes follow the example4 ,this was the nearest approach to a priesthood ,i met4 ,when ,i asked them to part with one of these relics1 they replied1 ,oh no1 he refuses4 ,who refuses8 ,santuru1 was their reply1 showing their belief in a future state of existence4 ,after explaining to them1 as ,i always did when opportunity offered1 the nature of true worship1 and praying with them in the simple form which needs no offering from the worshiper except that of the heart1 and planting some fruit-tree seeds in the grove1 we departed4 ,another incident1 which occurred at the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye1 may be mentioned here1 as showing a more vivid perception of the existence of spiritual beings1 and greater proneness to worship than among the ,bechuanas4 ,having taken lunar observations in the morning1 ,i was waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for the latitude2 my chief boatman was sitting by1 in order to pack up the instruments as soon as ,i had finished2 there was a large halo1 about #bj ,deg4 in diameter1 round the sun2 thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere1 which this indicated1 might betoken rain1 ,i asked him if his experience did not lead him to the same view4 ,oh no1 replied he2 it is the ,barimo 7gods or departed spirits71 who have called a picho2 don't you see they have the ,lord 7sun7 in the centre8 ,while still at ,naliele ,i walked out to ,katongo 7lat4 #ae;d #af' #cc71 on the ridge which bounds the valley of the ,barotse in that direction1 and found it covered with trees4 ,it is only the commencement of the lands which are never inundated2 their gentle rise from the dead level of the valley much resembles the edge of the ,desert in the valley of the ,nile4 ,but here the ,banyeti have fine gardens1 and raise great quantities of maize1 millet1 and native corn 7',holcus sorghum'71 of large grain and beautifully white4 ,they grow1 also1 yams1 sugar-cane1 the ,egyptian arum1 sweet potato 7',convolulus batata'71 two kinds of manioc or cassava 7',jatropha manihot' and ',j4 utilissima'1 a variety containing scarcely any poison71 besides pumpkins1 melons1 beans1 and ground-nuts4 ,these1 with plenty of fish in the river1 its branches and lagoons1 wild fruits and water-fowl1 always make the people refer to the ,barotse as the land of plenty4 ,the scene from the ridge1 on looking back1 was beautiful4 ,one can not see the western side of the valley in a cloudy day1 such as that was when we visited the stockade1 but we could see the great river glancing out at different points1 and fine large herds of cattle quietly grazing on the green succulent herbage1 among numbers of cattle-stations and villages which are dotted over the landscape4 ,leches in hundreds fed securely beside them1 for they have learned only to keep out of bow-shot1 or two hundred yards4 ,when guns come into a country the animals soon learn their longer range1 and begin to run at a distance of five hundred yards4 ,i imagined the slight elevation 7,katongo7 might be healthy1 but was informed that no part of this region is exempt from fever4 ,when the waters begin to retire from this valley1 such masses of decayed vegetation and mud are exposed to the torrid sun that even the natives suffer severely from attacks of fever4 ,the grass is so rank in its growth that one can not see the black alluvial soil of the bottom of this periodical lake4 ,even when the grass falls down in winter1 or is laid by its own weight1 one is obliged to lift the feet so high1 to avoid being tripped up by it1 as to make walking excessively fatiguing4 ,young leches are hidden beneath it by their dams2 and the ,makololo youth complain of being unable to run in the ,barotse land on this account4 ,there was evidently no healthy spot in this quarter2 and the current of the river being about four and a half miles per hour 7one hundred yards in sixty seconds71 ,i imagined we might find what we needed in the higher lands1 from which the river seemed to come4 ,i resolved1 therefore1 to go to the utmost limits of the ,barotse country before coming to a final conclusion4 ,katongo was the best place we had seen2 but1 in order to accomplish a complete examination1 ,i left ,sekeletu at ,naliele1 and ascended the river4 ,he furnished me with men1 besides my rowers1 and among the rest a herald1 that ,i might enter his villages in what is considered a dignified manner4 ,this1 it was supposed1 would be effected by the herald shouting out at the top of his voice1 ,here comes the lord2 the great lion2 the latter phrase being tau e tona1 which1 in his imperfect way of pronunciation1 became ,sau e tona1 and so like the great sow that ,i could not receive the honor with becoming gravity1 and had to entreat him1 much to the annoyance of my party1 to be silent4 ,in our ascent we visited a number of ,makololo villages1 and were always received with a hearty welcome1 as messengers to them of peace1 which they term sleep4 ,they behave well in public meetings1 even on the first occasion of attendance1 probably from the habit of commanding the ,makalaka1 crowds of whom swarm in every village1 and whom the ,makololo women seem to consider as especially under their charge4 ,the river presents the same appearance of low banks without trees as we have remarked it had after we came to #af;d #af'1 until we arrive at ,libonta 7#ad;d #ei' ,s4 lat474 ,twenty miles beyond that1 we find forest down to the water's edge1 and tsetse4 ,here ,i might have turned back1 as no locality can be inhabited by ,europeans where that scourge exists2 but hearing that we were not far from the confluence of the ,river of ,londa or ,lunda1 named ,leeba or ,loiba1 and the chiefs of that country being reported to be friendly to strangers1 and therefore likely to be of use to me on my return from the west coast1 ,i still pushed on to latitude #ad;d #aa' #c ,s4 ,there the ,leeambye assumes the name ,kabompo1 and seems to be coming from the east4 ,it is a fine large river1 about three hundred yards wide1 and the ,leeba two hundred and fifty4 ,the ,loeti1 a branch of which is called ,langebongo1 comes from ,w4,n4,w41 through a level grassy plain named ,mango2 it is about one hundred yards wide1 and enters the ,leeambye from the west2 the waters of the ,loeti are of a light color1 and those of the ,leeba of a dark mossy hue4 ,after the ,loeti joins the ,leeambye the different colored waters flow side by side for some distance unmixed4 ,before reaching the ,loeti we came to a number of people from the ,lobale region1 hunting hippopotami4 ,they fled precipitately as soon as they saw the ,makololo1 leaving their canoes and all their utensils and clothing4 ,my own ,makalaka1 who were accustomed to plunder wherever they went1 rushed after them like furies1 totally regardless of my shouting4 ,as this proceeding would have destroyed my character entirely at ,lobale1 ,i took my stand on a commanding position as they returned1 and forced them to lay down all the plunder on a sand-bank1 and leave it there for its lawful owners4 ,it was now quite evident that no healthy location could be obtained in which the ,makololo would be allowed to live in peace4 ,i had thus a fair excuse1 if ,i had chosen to avail myself of it1 of coming home and saying that the door was shut1 because the ,lord's time had not yet come4 ,but believing that it was my duty to devote some portion of my life to these 7to me at least7 very confiding and affectionate ,makololo1 ,i resolved to follow out the second part of my plan1 though ,i had failed in accomplishing the first4 ,the ,leeba seemed to come from the ,n4 and by ,w41 or ,n4,n4,w42 so1 having an old ,portuguese map1 which pointed out the ,coanza as rising from the middle of the continent in #i ,deg4 ,s4 lat41 ,i thought it probable that1 when we had ascended the ,leeba 7from #ad;d #aa'7 two or three degrees1 we should then be within one hundred and twenty miles of the ,coanza1 and find no difficulty in following it down to the coast near ,loanda4 ,this was the logical deduction2 but1 as is the case with many a plausible theory1 one of the premises was decidedly defective4 ,the ,coanza1 as we afterward found1 does not come from any where near the centre of the country4 ,the numbers of large game above ,libonta are prodigious1 and they proved remarkably tame4 ,eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before our fire one evening1 within gunshot2 and herds of splendid elands stood by day1 without fear1 at two hundred yards distance4 ,they were all of the striped variety1 and with their forearm markings1 large dewlaps1 and sleek skins1 were a beautiful sight to see4 ,the lions here roar much more than in the country near the lake1 ,zouga1 and ,chobe4 ,one evening we had a good opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal can make in that line4 ,we had made our beds on a large sand-bank1 and could be easily seen from all sides4 ,a lion on the opposite shore amused himself for hours by roaring as loudly as he could1 putting1 as is usual in such cases1 his mouth near the ground1 to make the sound reverberate4 ,the river was too broad for a ball to reach him1 so we let him enjoy himself1 certain that he durst not have been guilty of the impertinence in the ,bushman country4 ,wherever the game abounds1 these animals exist in proportionate numbers4 ,here they were very frequently seen1 and two of the largest ,i ever saw seemed about as tall as common donkeys2 but the mane made their bodies appear rather larger4 ,a party of ,arabs from ,zanzibar were in the country at this time4 ,sekeletu had gone from ,naliele to the town of his mother before we arrived from the north1 but left an ox for our use1 and instructions for us to follow him thither4 ,we came down a branch of the ,leeambye called ,marile1 which departs from the main river in latitude #ae;d #ae' #dc ,s41 and is a fine deep stream about sixty yards wide4 ,it makes the whole of the country around ,naliele an island4 ,when sleeping at a village in the same latitude as ,naliele town1 two of the ,arabs mentioned made their appearance4 ,they were quite as dark as the ,makololo1 but1 having their heads shaved1 ,i could not compare their hair with that of the inhabitants of the country4 ,when we were about to leave they came to bid adieu1 but ,i asked them to stay and help us to eat our ox4 ,as they had scruples about eating an animal not blooded in their own way1 ,i gained their good-will by saying ,i was quite of their opinion as to getting quit of the blood1 and gave them two legs of an animal slaughtered by themselves4 ,they professed the greatest detestation of the ,portuguese1 because they eat pigs2 and disliked the ,english1 because they thrash them for selling slaves4 ,i was silent about pork2 though1 had they seen me at a hippopotamus two days afterward1 they would have set me down as being as much a heretic as any of that nation2 but ,i ventured to tell them that ,i agreed with the ,english1 that it was better to let the children grow up and comfort their mothers when they became old1 than to carry them away and sell them across the sea4 ,this they never attempt to justify2 they want them only to cultivate the land1 and take care of them as their children4 ,it is the same old story1 justifying a monstrous wrong on pretense of taking care of those degraded portions of humanity which can not take care of themselves2 doing evil that good may come4 ,these ,arabs1 or ,moors1 could read and write their own language readily2 and1 when speaking about our ,savior1 ,i admired the boldness with which they informed me that ,christ was a very good prophet1 but ,mohammed was far greater4 ,and with respect to their loathing of pork1 it may have some foundation in their nature2 for ,i have known ,bechuanas1 who had no prejudice against the wild animal1 and ate the tame without scruple1 yet1 unconscious of any cause of disgust1 vomit it again4 ,the ,bechuanas south of the lake have a prejudice against eating fish1 and allege a disgust to eating any thing like a serpent4 ,this may arise from the remnants of serpent-worship floating in their minds1 as1 in addition to this horror of eating such animals1 they sometimes render a sort of obeisance to living serpents by clapping their hands to them1 and refusing to destroy the reptiles2 but in the case of the hog they are conscious of no superstitious feeling4 ,having parted with our ,arab friends1 we proceeded down the ,marile till we re-entered the ,leeambye1 and went to the town of ,ma-,sekeletu 7mother of ,sekeletu71 opposite the island of ,loyela4 ,sekeletu had always supplied me most liberally with food1 and1 as soon as ,i arrived1 presented me with a pot of boiled meat1 while his mother handed me a large jar of butter1 of which they make great quantities for the purpose of anointing their bodies4 ,he had himself sometimes felt the benefit of my way of putting aside a quantity of the meat after a meal1 and had now followed my example by ordering some to be kept for me4 ,according to their habits1 every particle of an ox is devoured at one meal2 and as the chief can not1 without a deviation from their customs1 eat alone1 he is often compelled to suffer severely from hunger before another meal is ready4 ,we henceforth always worked into each other's hands by saving a little for each other2 and when some of the sticklers for use and custom grumbled1 ,i advised them to eat like men1 and not like vultures4 ,as this was the first visit which ,sekeletu had paid to this part of his dominions1 it was to many a season of great joy4 ,the head men of each village presented oxen1 milk1 and beer1 more than the horde which accompanied him could devour1 though their abilities in that line are something wonderful4 ,the people usually show their joy and work off their excitement in dances and songs4 ,the dance consists of the men standing nearly naked in a circle1 with clubs or small battle-axes in their hands1 and each roaring at the loudest pitch of his voice1 while they simultaneously lift one leg1 stamp heavily twice with it1 then lift the other and give one stamp with that2 this is the only movement in common4 ,the arms and head are often thrown about also in every direction2 and all this time the roaring is kept up with the utmost possible vigor2 the continued stamping makes a cloud of dust ascend1 and they leave a deep ring in the ground where they stood4 ,if the scene were witnessed in a lunatic asylum it would be nothing out of the way1 and quite appropriate even1 as a means of letting off the excessive excitement of the brain2 but here gray-headed men joined in the performance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse for making the perspiration stream off their bodies with the exertion4 ,motibe asked what ,i thought of the ,makololo dance4 ,i replied1 ,it is very hard work1 and brings but small profit4 ,it is1 replied he1 but it is very nice1 and ,sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him4 ,he usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is over4 ,the women stand by1 clapping their hands1 and occasionally one advances into the circle1 composed of a hundred men1 makes a few movements1 and then retires4 ,as ,i never tried it1 and am unable to enter into the spirit of the thing1 ,i can not recommend the ,makololo polka to the dancing world1 but ,i have the authority of no less a person than ,motibe1 ,sekeletu's father-in-law1 for saying it is very nice4 ,they often asked if white people ever danced4 ,i thought of the disease called ,st4 ,vitus's dance1 but could not say that all our dancers were affected by it1 and gave an answer which1 ,i ought to be ashamed to own1 did not raise some of our young countrywomen in the estimation of the ,makololo4 ,as ,sekeletu had been waiting for me at his mother's1 we left the town as soon as ,i arrived1 and proceeded down the river4 ,our speed with the stream was very great1 for in one day we went from ,litofe to ,gonye1 a distance of forty-four miles of latitude2 and if we add to this the windings of the river1 in longitude the distance will not be much less than sixty geographical miles4 ,at this rate we soon reached ,sesheke1 and then the town of ,linyanti4 ,i had been1 during a nine weeks' tour1 in closer contact with heathenism than ,i had ever been before2 and though all1 including the chief1 were as kind and attentive to me as possible1 and there was no want of food 7oxen being slaughtered daily1 sometimes ten at a time1 more than sufficient for the wants of all71 yet to endure the dancing1 roaring1 and singing1 the jesting1 anecdotes1 grumbling1 quarreling1 and murdering of these children of nature1 seemed more like a severe penance than any thing ,i had before met with in the course of my missionary duties4 ,i took thence a more intense disgust at heathenism than ,i had before1 and formed a greatly elevated opinion of the latent effects of missions in the south1 among tribes which are reported to have been as savage as the ,makololo4 ,the indirect benefits which1 to a casual observer1 lie beneath the surface and are inappreciable1 in reference to the probable wide diffusion of ,christianity at some future time1 are worth all the money and labor that have been expended to produce them4 ,chapter #ac4 ,preliminary ,arrangements for the ,journey--,a ,picho--,twenty-seven ,men appointed to accompany me to the ,west--,eagerness of the ,makololo for direct ,trade with the ,coast--,effects of ,fever--,a ,makololo ,question--,the lost ,journal--,reflections--,the ,outfit for the ,journey--#aath ,november1 #ahec1 leave ,linyanti1 and embark on the ,chobe--,dangerous ,hippopotami--,banks of ,chobe--,trees--,the ,course of the ,river--,the ,island ,mparia at the ,confluence of the ,chobe and the ,leeambye-- ,anecdote--,ascend the ,leeambye--,a ,makalaka ,mother defies the ,authority of the ,makololo ,head ,man at ,sesheke--,punishment of ,thieves--,observance of the new ,moon--,public ,addresses at ,sesheke--,attention of the ,people--,results--,proceed up the ,river--,the ,fruit which yields ',nux vomica'--,other ,fruits--,the ,rapids--,birds--,fish--,hippopotami and their ,young4 ,linyanti1 ,,september1 #ahec4 ,the object proposed to the ,makololo seemed so desirable that it was resolved to proceed with it as soon as the cooling influence of the rains should be felt in ,november4 ,the longitude and latitude of ,linyanti 7lat4 #ah;d #ag' #bj ,s41 long4 #bc;d #ej' #i ,e47 showed that ,st4 ,philip de ,benguela was much nearer to us than ,loanda2 and ,i might have easily made arrangements with the ,mambari to allow me to accompany them as far as ,bihe1 which is on the road to that port2 but it is so undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave-traders that ,i preferred to find out another line of march4 ,accordingly1 men were sent at my suggestion to examine all the country to the west1 to see if any belt of country free from tsetse could be found to afford us an outlet4 ,the search was fruitless4 ,the town and district of ,linyanti are surrounded by forests infested by this poisonous insect1 except at a few points1 as that by which we entered at ,sanshureh and another at ,sesheke4 ,but the lands both east and west of the ,barotse valley are free from this insect plague4 ,there1 however1 the slave-trade had defiled the path1 and no one ought to follow in its wake unless well armed4 ,the ,mambari had informed me that many ,english lived at ,loanda1 so ,i prepared to go thither4 ,the prospect of meeting with countrymen seemed to overbalance the toils of the longer march4 ,a picho was called to deliberate on the steps proposed4 ,in these assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed2 and on this occasion one of the old diviners said1 ,where is he taking you to8 ,this white man is throwing you away4 ,your garments already smell of blood4 ,it is curious to observe how much identity of character appears all over the world4 ,this man was a noted croaker4 ,he always dreamed something dreadful in every expedition1 and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened the propriety of flight4 ,but ,sebituane formerly set his visions down to cowardice1 and ,sekeletu only laughed at him now4 ,the general voice was in my favor2 so a band of twenty-seven were appointed to accompany me to the west4 ,these men were not hired1 but sent to enable me to accomplish an object as much desired by the chief and most of his people as by me4 ,they were eager to obtain free and profitable trade with white men4 ,the prices which the ,cape merchants could give1 after defraying the great expenses of a long journey hither1 being very small1 made it scarce worth while for the natives to collect produce for that market2 and the ,mambari1 giving only a few bits of print and baize for elephants' tusks worth more pounds than they gave yards of cloth1 had produced the belief that trade with them was throwing ivory away4 ,the desire of the ,makololo for direct trade with the sea-coast coincided exactly with my own conviction that no permanent elevation of a people can be effected without commerce4 ,neither could there be a permanent mission here1 unless the missionaries should descend to the level of the ,makololo1 for even at ,kolobeng we found that traders demanded three or four times the price of the articles we needed1 and expected us to be grateful to them besides for letting us have them at all4 ,the three men whom ,i had brought from ,kuruman had frequent relapses of the fever2 so1 finding that instead of serving me ,i had to wait on them1 ,i decided that they should return to the south with ,fleming as soon as he had finished his trading4 ,i was then entirely dependent on my twenty-seven men1 whom ,i might name ,zambesians1 for there were two ,makololo only1 while the rest consisted of ,barotse1 ,batoka1 ,bashubia1 and two of the ,ambonda4 ,the fever had caused considerable weakness in my own frame1 and a strange giddiness when ,i looked up suddenly to any celestial object1 for every thing seemed to rush to the left1 and if ,i did not catch hold of some object1 ,i fell heavily on the ground3 something resembling a gush of bile along the duct from the liver caused the same fit to occur at night1 whenever ,i turned suddenly round4 ,the ,makololo now put the question1 ,in the event of your death1 will not the white people blame us for having allowed you to go away into an unhealthy1 unknown country of enemies8 ,i replied that none of my friends would blame them1 because ,i would leave a book with ,sekeletu1 to be sent to ,mr4 ,moffat in case ,i did not return1 which would explain to him all that had happened until the time of my departure4 ,the book was a volume of my ,journal2 and1 as ,i was detained longer than ,i expected at ,loanda1 this book1 with a letter1 was delivered by ,sekeletu to a trader1 and ,i have been unable to trace it4 ,i regret this now1 as it contained valuable notes on the habits of wild animals1 and the request was made in the letter to convey the volume to my family4 ,the prospect of passing away from this fair and beautiful world thus came before me in a pretty plain1 matter-of-fact form1 and it did seem a serious thing to leave wife and children--to break up all connection with earth1 and enter on an untried state of existence2 and ,i find myself in my journal pondering over that fearful migration which lands us in eternity1 wondering whether an angel will soothe the fluttering soul1 sadly flurried as it must be on entering the spirit world1 and hoping that ,jesus might speak but one word of peace1 for that would establish in the bosom an everlasting calm4 ,but as ,i had always believed that1 if we serve ,god at all1 it ought to be done in a manly way1 ,i wrote to my brother1 commending our little girl to his care1 as ,i was determined to succeed or perish in the attempt to open up this part of ,africa4 ,the ,boers1 by taking possession of all my goods1 had saved me the trouble of making a will2 and1 considering the light heart now left in my bosom1 and some faint efforts to perform the duty of ,christian forgiveness1 ,i felt that it was better to be the plundered party than one of the plunderers4 ,when ,i committed the wagon and remaining goods to the care of the ,makololo1 they took all the articles except one box into their huts2 and two warriors1 ,ponuane and ,mahale1 brought forward each a fine heifer calf4 ,after performing a number of warlike evolutions1 they asked the chief to witness the agreement made between them1 that whoever of the two should kill a ,matebele warrior first1 in defense of the wagon1 should possess both the calves4 ,i had three muskets for my people1 a rifle and double-barreled smooth-bore for myself2 and1 having seen such great abundance of game in my visit to the ,leeba1 ,i imagined that ,i could easily supply the wants of my party4 ,wishing also to avoid the discouragement which would naturally be felt on meeting any obstacles if my companions were obliged to carry heavy loads1 ,i took only a few biscuits1 a few pounds of tea and sugar1 and about twenty of coffee1 which1 as the ,arabs find1 though used without either milk or sugar1 is a most refreshing beverage after fatigue or exposure to the sun4 ,we carried one small tin canister1 about fifteen inches square1 filled with spare shirting1 trowsers1 and shoes1 to be used when we reached civilized life1 and others in a bag1 which were expected to wear out on the way2 another of the same size for medicines2 and a third for books1 my stock being a ,nautical ,almanac1 ,thomson's ,logarithm ,tables1 and a ,bible2 a fourth box contained a magic lantern1 which we found of much use4 ,the sextant and artificial horizon1 thermometer1 and compasses were carried apart4 ,my ammunition was distributed in portions through the whole luggage1 so that1 if an accident should befall one part1 we could still have others to fall back upon4 ,our chief hopes for food were upon that2 but in case of failure1 ,i took about #bj lbs4 of beads1 worth #djs41 which still remained of the stock ,i brought from ,cape ,town1 a small gipsy tent1 just sufficient to sleep in1 a sheep-skin mantle as a blanket1 and a horse-rug as a bed4 ,as ,i had always found that the art of successful travel consisted in taking as few impedimenta as possible1 and not forgetting to carry my wits about me1 the outfit was rather spare1 and intended to be still more so when we should come to leave the canoes4 ,some would consider it injudicious to adopt this plan1 but ,i had a secret conviction that if ,i did not succeed1 it would not be for want of the knick-knacks advertised as indispensable for travelers1 but from want of pluck1 or because a large array of baggage excited the cupidity of the tribes through whose country we wished to pass4 ,the instruments ,i carried1 though few1 were the best of their kind4 ,a sextant1 by the famed makers ,troughton and ,sims1 of ,fleet ,street2 a chronometer watch1 with a stop to the seconds hand--an admirable contrivance for enabling a person to take the exact time of observations3 it was constructed by ,dent1 of the ,strand 7#fa71 for the ,royal ,geographical ,society1 and selected for the service by the ,president1 ,admiral ,smythe1 to whose judgment and kindness ,i am in this and other matters deeply indebted4 ,it was pronounced by ,mr4 ,maclear to equal most chronometers in performance4 ,for these excellent instruments ,i have much pleasure in recording my obligations to my good friend ,colonel ,steele1 and at the same time to ,mr4 ,maclear for much of my ability to use them4 ,besides these1 ,i had a thermometer by ,dollond2 a compass from the ,cape ,observatory1 and a small pocket one in addition2 a good small telescope with a stand capable of being screwed into a tree4 #aa,,th ,,of ,,november1 #ahec4 ,left the town of ,linyanti1 accompanied by ,sekeletu and his principal men1 to embark on the ,chobe4 ,the chief came to the river in order to see that all was right at parting4 ,we crossed five branches of the ,chobe before reaching the main stream3 this ramification must be the reason why it appeared so small to ,mr4 ,oswell and myself in #ahea4 ,when all the departing branches re-enter1 it is a large1 deep river4 ,the spot of embarkation was the identical island where we met ,sebituane1 first known as the island of ,maunku1 one of his wives4 ,the chief lent me his own canoe1 and1 as it was broader than usual1 ,i could turn about in it with ease4 ,the ,chobe is much infested by hippopotami1 and1 as certain elderly males are expelled the herd1 they become soured in their temper1 and so misanthropic as to attack every canoe that passes near them4 ,the herd is never dangerous1 except when a canoe passes into the midst of it when all are asleep1 and some of them may strike the canoe in terror4 ,to avoid this1 it is generally recommended to travel by day near the bank1 and by night in the middle of the stream4 ,as a rule1 these animals flee the approach of man4 ,the solitaires1 however1 frequent certain localities well known to the inhabitants on the banks1 and1 like the rogue elephants1 are extremely dangerous4 ,we came1 at this time1 to a canoe which had been smashed to pieces by a blow from the hind foot of one of them4 ,i was informed by my men that1 in the event of a similar assault being made upon ours1 the proper way was to dive to the bottom of the river1 and hold on there for a few seconds1 because the hippopotamus1 after breaking a canoe1 always looks for the people on the surface1 and1 if he sees none1 he soon moves off4 ,i have seen some frightful gashes made on the legs of the people who have had the misfortune to be attacked1 and were unable to dive4 ,this animal uses his teeth as an offensive weapon1 though he is quite a herbivorous feeder4 ,one of these bachelors1 living near the confluence1 actually came out of his lair1 and1 putting his head down1 ran after some of our men who were passing with very considerable speed4 ,the part of the river called ,zabesa1 or ,zabenza1 is spread out like a little lake1 surrounded on all sides by dense masses of tall reeds4 ,the river below that is always one hundred or one hundred and twenty yards broad1 deep1 and never dries up so much as to become fordable4 ,at certain parts1 where the partial absence of reeds affords a view of the opposite banks1 the ,makololo have placed villages of observation against their enemies the ,matebele4 ,we visited all these in succession1 and found here1 as every where in the ,makololo country1 orders had preceded us1 that ,nake 7nyake means doctor7 must not be allowed to become hungry4 ,the banks of the ,chobe1 like those of the ,zouga1 are of soft calcareous tufa1 and the river has cut out for itself a deep1 perpendicular-sided bed4 ,where the banks are high1 as at the spot where the wagons stood in #ahea1 they are covered with magnificent trees1 the habitat of tsetse1 and the retreat of various antelopes1 wild hogs1 zebras1 buffaloes1 and elephants4 ,among the trees may be observed some species of the ',ficus ,indica'1 light-green colored acacias1 the splendid motsintsela1 and evergreen cypress-shaped motsouri4 ,the fruit of the last-named was ripe1 and the villagers presented many dishes of its beautiful pink-colored plums2 they are used chiefly to form a pleasant acid drink4 ,the motsintsela is a very lofty tree1 yielding a wood of which good canoes are made2 the fruit is nutritious and good1 but1 like many wild fruits of this country1 the fleshy parts require to be enlarged by cultivation3 it is nearly all stone4 ,the course of the river we found to be extremely tortuous2 so much so1 indeed1 as to carry us to all points of the compass every dozen miles4 ,some of us walked from a bend at the village of ,moremi to another nearly due east of that point1 in six hours1 while the canoes1 going at more than double our speed1 took twelve to accomplish the voyage between the same two places4 ,and though the river is from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth at its lowest ebb1 and broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it1 the suddenness of the bendings would prevent navigation2 but1 should the country ever become civilized1 the ,chobe would be a convenient natural canal4 ,we spent forty-two and a half hours1 paddling at the rate of five miles an hour1 in coming from ,linyanti to the confluence2 there we found a dike of amygdaloid lying across the ,leeambye4 ,this amygdaloid with analami and mesotype contains crystals1 which the water gradually dissolves1 leaving the rock with a worm-eaten appearance4 ,it is curious to observe that the water flowing over certain rocks1 as in this instance1 imbibes an appreciable1 though necessarily most minute1 portion of the minerals they contain4 ,the water of the ,chobe up to this point is of a dark mossy hue1 but here it suddenly assumes a lighter tint2 and wherever this light color shows a greater amount of mineral1 there are not mosquitoes enough to cause serious annoyance to any except persons of very irritable temperaments4 ,the large island called ,mparia stands at the confluence4 ,this is composed of trap 7zeolite1 probably mesotype7 of a younger age than the deep stratum of tufa in which the ,chobe has formed its bed1 for1 at the point where they come together1 the tufa has been transformed into saccharoid limestone4 ,the actual point of confluence of these two rivers1 the ,chobe and the ,leeambye1 is ill defined1 on account of each dividing into several branches as they inosculate2 but when the whole body of water collects into one bed1 it is a goodly sight for one who has spent many years in the thirsty south4 ,standing on one bank1 even the keen eye of the natives can not detect whether two large islands1 a few miles east of the junction1 are main land or not4 ,during a flight in former years1 when the present chief ,sekomi was a child in his mother's arms1 the ,bamangwato men were separated from their women1 and inveigled on to one of these islands by the ,makalaka chief of ,mparia1 on pretense of ferrying them across the ,leeambye4 ,they were left to perish after seeing their wives taken prisoners by these cruel lords of the ,leeambye1 and ,sekomi owed his life to the compassion of one of the ,bayeiye1 who1 pitying the young chieftain1 enabled his mother to make her escape by night4 ,after spending one night at the ,makololo village on ,mparia1 we left the ,chobe1 and1 turning round1 began to ascend the ,leeambye2 on the #aith of ,november we again reached the town of ,sesheke4 ,it stands on the north bank of the river1 and contains a large population of ,makalaka1 under ,moriantsane1 brother-in-law of ,sebituane4 ,there are parties of various tribes here1 assembled under their respective head men1 but a few ,makololo rule over all4 ,their sway1 though essentially despotic1 is considerably modified by certain customs and laws4 ,one of the ,makalaka had speared an ox belonging to one of the ,makololo1 and1 being unable to extract the spear1 was thereby discovered to be the perpetrator of the deed4 ,his object had been to get a share of the meat1 as ,moriantsane is known to be liberal with any food that comes into his hands4 ,the culprit was bound hand and foot1 and placed in the sun to force him to pay a fine1 but he continued to deny his guilt4 ,his mother1 believing in the innocence of her son1 now came forward1 with her hoe in hand1 and1 threatening to cut down any one who should dare to interfere1 untied the cords with which he had been bound and took him home4 ,this open defiance of authority was not resented by ,moriantsane1 but referred to ,sekeletu at ,linyanti4 ,the following circumstance1 which happened here when ,i was present with ,sekeletu1 shows that the simple mode of punishment1 by forcing a criminal to work out a fine1 did not strike the ,makololo mind until now4 ,a stranger having visited ,sesheke for the purpose of barter1 was robbed by one of the ,makalaka of most of his goods4 ,the thief1 when caught1 confessed the theft1 and that he had given the articles to a person who had removed to a distance4 ,the ,makololo were much enraged at the idea of their good name being compromised by this treatment of a stranger4 ,their customary mode of punishing a crime which causes much indignation is to throw the criminal into the river2 but1 as this would not restore the lost property1 they were sorely puzzled how to act4 ,the case was referred to me1 and ,i solved the difficulty by paying for the loss myself1 and sentencing the thief to work out an equivalent with his hoe in a garden4 ,this system was immediately introduced1 and thieves are now sentenced to raise an amount of corn proportioned to their offenses4 ,among the ,bakwains1 a woman who had stolen from the garden of another was obliged to part with her own entirely3 it became the property of her whose field was injured by the crime4 ,there is no stated day of rest in any part of this country1 except the day after the appearance of the new moon1 and the people then refrain only from going to their gardens4 ,a curious custom1 not to be found among the ,bechuanas1 prevails among the black tribes beyond them4 ,they watch most eagerly for the first glimpse of the new moon1 and1 when they perceive the faint outline after the sun has set deep in the west1 they utter a loud shout of ,kua6 and vociferate prayers to it4 ,my men1 for instance1 called out1 ,let our journey with the white man be prosperous6 ,let our enemies perish1 and the children of ,nake become rich6 ,may he have plenty of meat on this journey6 etc41 etc4 ,i gave many public addresses to the people of ,sesheke under the outspreading camel-thorn-tree1 which serves as a shade to the kotla on the high bank of the river4 ,it was pleasant to see the long lines of men1 women1 and children winding along from different quarters of the town1 each party following behind their respective head men4 ,they often amounted to between five and six hundred souls1 and required an exertion of voice which brought back the complaint for which ,i had got the uvula excised at the ,cape4 ,they were always very attentive2 and ,moriantsane1 in order1 as he thought1 to please me1 on one occasion rose up in the middle of the discourse1 and hurled his staff at the heads of some young fellows whom he saw working with a skin instead of listening4 ,my hearers sometimes put very sensible questions on the subjects brought before them2 at other times they introduced the most frivolous nonsense immediately after hearing the most solemn truths4 ,some begin to pray to ,jesus in secret as soon as they hear of the white man's ,god1 with but little idea of what they are about2 and no doubt are heard by ,him who1 like a father1 pitieth his children4 ,others1 waking by night1 recollect what has been said about the future world so clearly that they tell next day what a fright they got by it1 and resolve not to listen to the teaching again2 and not a few keep to the determination not to believe1 as certain villagers in the south1 who put all their cocks to death because they crowed the words1 ,tlang lo rapeleng--,come along to prayers4 ,on recovering partially from a severe attack of fever which remained upon me ever since our passing the village of ,moremi on the ,chobe1 we made ready for our departure up the river by sending messages before us to the villages to prepare food4 ,we took four elephants' tusks1 belonging to ,sekeletu1 with us1 as a means of testing the difference of prices between the ,portuguese1 whom we expected to reach1 and the white traders from the south4 ,moriantsane supplied us well with honey1 milk1 and meal4 ,the rains were just commencing in this district2 but1 though showers sufficient to lay the dust had fallen1 they had no influence whatever on the amount of water in the river1 yet never was there less in any part than three hundred yards of a deep flowing stream4 ,our progress up the river was rather slow2 this was caused by waiting opposite different villages for supplies of food4 ,we might have done with much less than we got2 but my ,makololo man1 ,pitsane1 knew of the generous orders of ,sekeletu1 and was not at all disposed to allow them to remain a dead letter4 ,the villages of the ,banyeti contributed large quantities of mosibe1 a bright red bean yielded by a large tree4 ,the pulp inclosing the seed is not much thicker than a red wafer1 and is the portion used4 ,it requires the addition of honey to render it at all palatable4 ,to these were added great numbers of the fruit which yields a variety of the nux vomica1 from which we derive that virulent poison strychnia4 ,the pulp between the nuts is the part eaten1 and it is of a pleasant juicy nature1 having a sweet acidulous taste4 ,the fruit itself resembles a large yellow orange1 but the rind is hard1 and1 with the pips and bark1 contains much of the deadly poison4 ,they evince their noxious qualities by an intensely bitter taste4 ,the nuts1 swallowed inadvertently1 cause considerable pain1 but not death2 and to avoid this inconvenience1 the people dry the pulp before the fire1 in order to be able the more easily to get rid of the noxious seeds4 ,a much better fruit1 called mobola1 was also presented to us4 ,this bears1 around a pretty large stone1 as much of the fleshy part as the common date1 and it is stripped off the seeds and preserved in bags in a similar manner to that fruit4 ,besides sweetness1 the mobola has the flavor of strawberries1 with a touch of nauseousness4 ,we carried some of them1 dried as provisions1 more than a hundred miles from this spot4 ,the next fruit1 named mamosho 7mother of morning71 is the most delicious of all4 ,it is about the size of a walnut1 and1 unlike most of the other uncultivated fruits1 has a seed no larger than that of a date4 ,the fleshy part is juicy1 and somewhat like the cashew-apple1 with a pleasant acidity added4 ,fruits similar to those which are here found on trees are found on the plains of the ,kalahari1 growing on mere herbaceous plants4 ,there are several other examples of a similar nature4 ,shrubs1 well known as such in the south1 assume the rank of trees as we go to the north2 and the change is quite gradual as our latitude decreases1 the gradations being herbaceous plants1 shrubs1 bushes1 small1 then large trees4 ,but it is questionable if1 in the cases of mamosho1 mobola1 and mawa1 the tree and shrub are identical1 though the fruits so closely resemble each other2 for ,i found both the dwarf and tree in the same latitude4 ,there is also a difference in the leaves1 and they bear at different seasons4 ,the banks of the river were at this time appearing to greater advantage than before4 ,many trees were putting on their fresh green leaves1 though they had got no rain1 their lighter green contrasting beautifully with the dark motsouri1 or moyela1 now covered with pink plums as large as cherries4 ,the rapids1 having comparatively little water in them1 rendered our passage difficult4 ,the canoes must never be allowed to come broadside on to the stream1 for1 being flat-bottomed1 they would1 in that case1 be at once capsized1 and every thing in them be lost4 ,the men work admirably1 and are always in good humor2 they leap into the water without the least hesitation1 to save the canoe from being caught by eddies or dashed against the rocks4 ,many parts were now quite shallow1 and it required great address and power in balancing themselves to keep the vessel free from rocks1 which lay just beneath the surface4 ,we might have got deeper water in the middle1 but the boatmen always keep near the banks1 on account of danger from the hippopotami4 ,but1 though we might have had deeper water farther out1 ,i believe that no part of the rapids is very deep4 ,the river is spread out more than a mile1 and the water flows rapidly over the rocky bottom4 ,the portions only three hundred yards wide are very deep1 and contain large volumes of flowing water in narrow compass1 which1 when spread over the much larger surface at the rapids1 must be shallow4 ,still1 remembering that this was the end of the dry season1 when such rivers as the ,orange do not even contain a fifth part of the water of the ,chobe1 the difference between the rivers of the north and south must be sufficiently obvious4 ,the rapids are caused by rocks of dark brown trap1 or of hardened sandstone1 stretching across the stream4 ,in some places they form miles of flat rocky bottom1 with islets covered with trees4 ,at the cataracts noted in the map1 the fall is from four to six feet1 and1 in guiding up the canoe1 the stem goes under the water1 and takes in a quantity before it can attain the higher level4 ,we lost many of our biscuits in the ascent through this4 ,these rocks are covered with a small1 hard aquatic plant1 which1 when the surface is exposed1 becomes dry and crisp1 crackling under the foot as if it contained much stony matter in its tissue4 ,it probably assists in disintegrating the rocks2 for1 in parts so high as not to be much exposed to the action of the water or the influence of the plant1 the rocks are covered with a thin black glaze4 ,in passing along under the overhanging trees of the banks1 we often saw the pretty turtle-doves sitting peacefully on their nests above the roaring torrent4 ,an ibis99 had perched her home on the end of a stump4 ,her loud1 harsh scream of ,wa-wa-wa1 and the piping of the fish-hawk1 are sounds which can never be forgotten by any one who has sailed on the rivers north of #bj ,deg4 south4 ,if we step on shore1 the ',charadrius caruncula'1 a species of plover1 a most plaguy sort of public-spirited individual1 follows you1 flying overhead1 and is most persevering in its attempts to give fair warning to all the animals within hearing to flee from the approaching danger4 ,the alarm-note1 tinc-tinc-tinc1 of another variety of the same family 7',pluvianus armatus' of ,burchell7 has so much of a metallic ring1 that this bird is called setula-tsipi1 or hammering-iron4 ,it is furnished with a sharp spur on its shoulder1 much like that on the heel of a cock1 but scarcely half an inch in length4 ,conscious of power1 it may be seen chasing the white-necked raven with great fury1 and making even that comparatively large bird call out from fear4 ,it is this bird which is famed for its friendship with the crocodile of the ,nile by the name 'siksak'1 and which ,mr4 ,st4 ,john actually saw performing the part of toothpicker to the ugly reptile4 ,they are frequently seen on the sand-banks with the alligator1 and1 to one passing by1 often appear as if on that reptile's back2 but ,i never had the good fortune to witness the operation described not only by ,st4 ,john and ,geoffrey ,st4 ,hilaire1 but also by ,herodotus4 ,however1 that which none of these authors knew my head boatman1 ,mashauana1 stopped the canoe to tell us1 namely1 that a water-turtle which1 in trying to ascend a steep bank to lay her eggs1 had toppled on her back1 thus enabling us to capture her1 was an infallible omen of good luck for our journey4 99 ,the ',hagidash'1 ,latham2 or ',tantalus capensis' of ,lich4 ,among the forest-trees which line the banks of the rocky parts of the ,leeambye several new birds were observed4 ,some are musical1 and the songs are pleasant in contrast with the harsh voice of the little green1 yellow-shouldered parrots of the country4 ,there are also great numbers of jet-black weavers1 with yellowish-brown band on the shoulders4 ,here we saw1 for the first time1 a pretty little bird1 colored dark blue1 except the wings and tail1 which were of a chocolate hue4 ,from the tail two feathers are prolonged beyond the rest six inches4 ,also1 little birds colored white and black1 of great vivacity1 and always in companies of six or eight together1 and various others4 ,from want of books of reference1 ,i could not decide whether they were actually new to science4 ,francolins and ,guinea-fowl abound along the banks2 and on every dead tree and piece of rock may be seen one or two species of the web-footed ',plotus'1 darter1 or snake-bird4 ,they sit most of the day sunning themselves over the stream1 sometimes standing erect with their wings outstretched2 occasionally they may be seen engaged in fishing by diving1 and1 as they swim about1 their bodies are so much submerged that hardly any thing appears above the water but their necks4 ,the chief time of feeding is by night1 and1 as the sun declines1 they may be seen in flocks flying from their roosting-places to the fishing-grounds4 ,this is a most difficult bird to catch when disabled4 ,it is thoroughly expert in diving--goes down so adroitly and comes up again in the most unlikely places1 that the people1 though most skillful in the management of the canoes1 can rarely secure them4 ,the rump of the darter is remarkably prolonged1 and capable of being bent1 so as to act both as a rudder in swimming1 and as a lever to lift the bird high enough out of the water to give free scope to its wings4 ,it can rise at will from the water by means of this appendage4 ,the fine fish-hawk1 with white head and neck1 and reddish-chocolate colored body1 may also frequently be seen perched on the trees1 and fish are often found dead which have fallen victims to its talons4 ,one most frequently seen in this condition is itself a destroyer of fish4 ,it is a stout-bodied fish1 about fifteen or eighteen inches long1 of a light yellow color1 and gayly ornamented with stripes and spots4 ,it has a most imposing array of sharp1 conical teeth outside the lips--objects of dread to the fisherman1 for it can use them effectually4 ,one which we picked up dead had killed itself by swallowing another fish1 which1 though too large for its stomach and throat1 could not be disgorged4 ,this fish-hawk generally kills more prey than it can devour4 ,it eats a portion of the back of the fish1 and leaves the rest for the ,barotse1 who often had a race across the river when they saw an abandoned morsel lying on the opposite sand-banks4 ,the hawk is1 however1 not always so generous1 for1 as ,i myself was a witness on the ,zouga1 it sometimes plunders the purse of the pelican4 ,soaring over head1 and seeing this large1 stupid bird fishing beneath1 it watches till a fine fish is safe in the pelican's pouch2 then descending1 not very quickly1 but with considerable noise of wing1 the pelican looks up to see what is the matter1 and1 as the hawk comes near1 he supposes that he is about to be killed1 and roars out ,murder6 ,the opening of his mouth enables the hawk to whisk the fish out of the pouch1 upon which the pelican does not fly away1 but commences fishing again1 the fright having probably made him forget he had any thing in his purse4 ,a fish called mosheba1 about the size of a minnow1 often skims along the surface for several yards1 in order to get out of the way of the canoe4 ,it uses the pectoral fins1 as the flying-fish do1 but never makes a clean flight4 ,it is rather a succession of hops along the surface1 made by the aid of the side fins4 ,it never becomes large4 ,numbers of iguanos 7mpulu7 sit sunning themselves on overhanging branches of the trees1 and splash into the water as we approach4 ,they are highly esteemed as an article of food1 the flesh being tender and gelatinous4 ,the chief boatman1 who occupies the stem1 has in consequence a light javelin always at hand to spear them if they are not quickly out of sight4 ,these1 and large alligators gliding in from the banks with a heavy plunge as we come round a sudden bend of the stream1 were the occurrences of every hour as we sped up the river4 ,the rapids in the part of the river between ,katima-molelo and ,nameta are relieved by several reaches of still1 deep water1 fifteen or twenty miles long4 ,in these very large herds of hippopotami are seen1 and the deep furrows they make1 in ascending the banks to graze during the nights1 are every where apparent4 ,they are guided back to the water by the scent1 but a long continued pouring rain makes it impossible for them to perceive1 by that means1 in which direction the river lies1 and they are found bewildered on the land4 ,the hunters take advantage of their helplessness on these occasions to kill them4 ,it is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd1 for they are almost always hidden beneath the waters2 but as they require to come up every few minutes to breathe1 when there is a constant succession of heads thrown up1 then the herd is supposed to be large4 ,they love a still reach of the stream1 as in the more rapid parts of the channel they are floated down so quickly that much exertion is necessary to regain the distance lost by frequently swimming up again3 such constant exertion disturbs them in their nap4 ,they prefer to remain by day in a drowsy1 yawning state1 and1 though their eyes are open1 they take little notice of things at a distance4 ,the males utter a loud succession of snorting grunts1 which may be heard a mile off4 ,the canoe in which ,i was1 in passing over a wounded one1 elicited a distinct grunting1 though the animal lay entirely under water4 ,the young1 when very little1 take their stand on the neck of the dam1 and the small head1 rising above the large1 comes soonest to the surface4 ,the dam1 knowing the more urgent need of her calf1 comes more frequently to the surface when it is in her care4 ,but in the rivers of ,londa1 where they are much in danger of being shot1 even the hippopotamus gains wit by experience2 for1 while those in the ,zambesi put up their heads openly to blow1 those referred to keep their noses among water-plants1 and breathe so quietly that one would not dream of their existence in the river except by footprints on the banks4 ,chapter #ad4 ,increasing ,beauty of the ,country--,mode of spending the ,day--,the ,people and the ,falls of ,gonye--,a ,makololo ,foray--,a second prevented1 and ,captives delivered up--,politeness and ,liberality of the ,people-- ,the ,rains--,present of ,oxen--,the fugitive ,barotse--,sekobinyane's ,misgovernment--,bee-eaters and other ,birds--,fresh-water ,sponges--,current--,death from a ,lion's ,bite at ,libonta--,continued ,kindness--,arrangements for spending the ,night during the ,journey--,cooking and ,washing--,abundance of animal ,life--,different ,species of ,birds--,water-fowl--,egyptian ,geese--,alligators--,narrow ,escape of one of my ,men--,superstitious ,feelings respecting the ,alligator--,large ,game--,the most vulnerable ,spot--,gun ,medicine--,a ,sunday--,birds of ,song--,depravity2 its ,treatment--,wild ,fruits--,green ,pigeons--,shoals of ,fish--,hippopotami4 #cj,,th ,,of ,,november1 #ahec4 ,at ,gonye ,falls4 ,no rain has fallen here1 so it is excessively hot4 ,the trees have put on their gayest dress1 and many flowers adorn the landscape1 yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at midday and look languid for want of rain4 ,if the country increases as much in beauty in front as it has done within the last four degrees of latitude1 it will be indeed a lovely land4 ,we all felt great lassitude in traveling4 ,the atmosphere is oppressive both in cloud and sunshine4 ,the evaporation from the river must be excessively great1 and ,i feel as if the fluids of the system joined in the general motion of watery vapor upward1 as enormous quantities of water must be drunk to supply its place4 ,when under way our usual procedure is this3 ,we get up a little before five in the morning2 it is then beginning to dawn4 ,while ,i am dressing1 coffee is made2 and1 having filled my pannikin1 the remainder is handed to my companions1 who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage4 ,the servants are busy loading the canoes1 while the principal men are sipping the coffee1 and1 that being soon over1 we embark4 ,the next two hours are the most pleasant part of the day's sail4 ,the men paddle away most vigorously2 the ,barotse1 being a tribe of boatmen1 have large1 deeply-developed chests and shoulders1 with indifferent lower extremities4 ,they often engage in loud scolding of each other in order to relieve the tedium of their work4 ,about eleven we land1 and eat any meat which may have remained from the previous evening meal1 or a biscuit with honey1 and drink water4 ,after an hour's rest we again embark and cower under an umbrella4 ,the heat is oppressive1 and1 being weak from the last attack of fever1 ,i can not land and keep the camp supplied with flesh4 ,the men1 being quite uncovered in the sun1 perspire profusely1 and in the afternoon begin to stop1 as if waiting for the canoes which have been left behind4 ,sometimes we reach a sleeping-place two hours before sunset1 and1 all being troubled with languor1 we gladly remain for the night4 ,coffee again1 and a biscuit1 or a piece of coarse bread made of maize meal1 or that of the native corn1 make up the bill of fare for the evening1 unless we have been fortunate enough to kill something1 when we boil a potful of flesh4 ,this is done by cutting it up into long strips and pouring in water till it is covered4 ,when that is boiled dry1 the meat is considered ready4 ,the people at ,gonye carry the canoes over the space requisite to avoid the falls by slinging them on poles tied on diagonally4 ,they place these on their shoulders1 and1 setting about the work with good humor1 soon accomplish the task4 ,they are a merry set of mortals2 a feeble joke sets them off in a fit of laughter4 ,here1 as elsewhere1 all petitioned for the magic lantern1 and1 as it is a good means of conveying instruction1 ,i willingly complied4 ,the falls of ,gonye have not been made by wearing back1 like those of ,niagara1 but are of a fissure form4 ,for many miles below1 the river is confined in a narrow space of not more than one hundred yards wide4 ,the water goes boiling along1 and gives the idea of great masses of it rolling over and over1 so that even the most expert swimmer would find it difficult to keep on the surface4 ,here it is that the river1 when in flood1 rises fifty or sixty feet in perpendicular height4 ,the islands above the falls are covered with foliage as beautiful as can be seen any where4 ,viewed from the mass of rock which overhangs the fall1 the scenery was the loveliest ,i had seen4 ,nothing worthy of note occurred on our way up to ,nameta4 ,there we heard that a party of the ,makololo1 headed by ,lerimo1 had made a foray to the north and up the ,leeba1 in the very direction in which we were about to proceed4 ,mpololo1 the uncle of ,sekeletu1 is considered the head man of the ,barotse valley2 and the perpetrators had his full sanction1 because ,masiko1 a son of ,santuru1 the former chief of the ,barotse1 had fled high up the ,leeambye1 and1 establishing himself there1 had sent men down to the vicinity of ,naliele to draw away the remaining ,barotse from their allegiance4 ,lerimo's party had taken some of this ,masiko's subjects prisoners1 and destroyed several villages of the ,balonda1 to whom we were going4 ,this was in direct opposition to the policy of ,sekeletu1 who wished to be at peace with these northern tribes2 and ,pitsane1 my head man1 was the bearer of orders to ,mpololo to furnish us with presents for the very chiefs they had attacked4 ,thus we were to get large pots of clarified butter and bunches of beads1 in confirmation of the message of peace we were to deliver4 ,when we reached ,litofe1 we heard that a fresh foray was in contemplation1 but ,i sent forward orders to disband the party immediately4 ,at ,ma-,sekeletu's town we found the head offender1 ,mpololo himself1 and ,i gave him a bit of my mind1 to the effect that1 as ,i was going with the full sanction of ,sekeletu1 if any harm happened to me in consequence of his ill-advised expedition1 the guilt would rest with him4 ,ma-,sekeletu1 who was present1 heartily approved all ,i said1 and suggested that all the captives taken by ,lerimo should be returned by my hand1 to show ,masiko that the guilt of the foray lay not with the superior persons of the ,makololo1 but with a mere servant4 ,her good sense appeared in other respects besides1 and1 as this was exactly what my own party had previously resolved to suggest1 we were pleased to hear ,mpololo agree to do what he was advised4 ,he asked me to lay the matter before the under-chiefs of ,naliele1 and when we reached that place1 on the #ith of ,december1 ,i did so in a picho1 called expressly for the purpose4 ,lerimo was present1 and felt rather crestfallen when his exploit was described by ,mohorisi1 one of my companions1 as one of extreme cowardice1 he having made an attack upon the defenseless villagers of ,londa1 while1 as we had found on our former visit1 a lion had actually killed eight people of ,naliele without his daring to encounter it4 ,the ,makololo are cowardly in respect to animals1 but brave against men4 ,mpololo took all the guilt upon himself before the people1 and delivered up a captive child whom his wife had in her possession2 others followed his example1 till we procured the release of five of the prisoners4 ,some thought1 as ,masiko had tried to take their children by stratagem1 they ought to take his by force1 as the two modes suited the genius of each people--the ,makalaka delight in cunning1 and the ,makololo in fighting2 and others thought1 if ,sekeletu meant them to be at peace with ,masiko1 he ought to have told them so4 ,it is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a marauding party with men of the same tribe as the aggressors1 but my people were in good spirits1 and several volunteers even offered to join our ranks4 ,we1 however1 adhered strictly to the orders of ,sekeletu as to our companions1 and refused all others4 ,the people of every village treated us most liberally1 presenting1 besides oxen1 butter1 milk1 and meal1 more than we could stow away in our canoes4 ,the cows in this valley are now yielding1 as they frequently do1 more milk than the people can use1 and both men and women present butter in such quantity that ,i shall be able to refresh my men as we move along4 ,anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of the fluids of the body1 and acts as clothing in both sun and shade4 ,they always made their presents gracefully4 ,when an ox was given1 the owner would say1 ,here is a little bit of bread for you4 ,this was pleasing1 for ,i had been accustomed to the ,bechuanas presenting a miserable goat1 with the pompous exclamation1 ,behold an ox6 ,the women persisted in giving me copious supplies of shrill praises1 or lullilooing2 but1 though ,i frequently told them to modify their great lords and great lions to more humble expressions1 they so evidently intended to do me honor that ,i could not help being pleased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success4 ,the rains began while we were at ,naliele2 this is much later than usual2 but1 though the ,barotse valley has been in need of rain1 the people never lack abundance of food4 ,the showers are refreshing1 but the air feels hot and close2 the thermometer1 however1 in a cool hut1 stands only at #hd ,deg4 ,the access of the external air to any spot at once raises its temperature above #ij ,deg4 ,a new attack of fever here caused excessive languor2 but1 as ,i am already getting tired of quoting my fevers1 and never liked to read travels myself where much was said about the illnesses of the traveler1 ,i shall henceforth endeavor to say little about them4 ,we here sent back the canoe of ,sekeletu1 and got the loan of others from ,mpololo4 ,eight riding oxen1 and seven for slaughter1 were1 according to the orders of that chief1 also furnished2 some were intended for our own use1 and others as presents to the chiefs of the ,balonda4 ,mpololo was particularly liberal in giving all that ,sekeletu ordered1 though1 as he feeds on the cattle he has in charge1 he might have felt it so much abstracted from his own perquisites4 ,mpololo now acts the great man1 and is followed every where by a crowd of toadies1 who sing songs in disparagement of ,mpepe1 of whom he always lived in fear4 ,while ,mpepe was alive1 he too was regaled with the same fulsome adulation1 and now they curse him4 ,they are very foul-tongued2 equals1 on meeting1 often greet each other with a profusion of oaths1 and end the volley with a laugh4 ,in coming up the river to ,naliele we met a party of fugitive ,barotse returning to their homes1 and1 as the circumstance illustrates the social status of these subjects of the ,makololo1 ,i introduce it here4 ,the villagers in question were the children1 or serfs1 if we may use the term1 of a young man of the same age and tribe as ,sekeletu1 who1 being of an irritable temper1 went by the nickname of ,sekobinyane--a little slavish thing4 ,his treatment of his servants was so bad that most of them had fled2 and when the ,mambari came1 and1 contrary to the orders of ,sekeletu1 purchased slaves1 ,sekobinyane sold one or two of the ,barotse children of his village4 ,the rest fled immediately to ,masiko1 and were gladly received by that ,barotse chief as his subjects4 ,when ,sekeletu and ,i first ascended the ,leeambye1 we met ,sekobinyane coming down1 on his way to ,linyanti4 ,on being asked the news1 he remained silent about the loss of his village1 it being considered a crime among the ,makololo for any one to treat his people so ill as to cause them to run away from him4 ,he then passed us1 and1 dreading the vengeance of ,sekeletu for his crime1 secretly made his escape from ,linyanti to ,lake ,ngami4 ,he was sent for1 however1 and the chief at the lake delivered him up1 on ,sekeletu declaring that he had no intention of punishing him otherwise than by scolding4 ,he did not even do that1 as ,sekobinyane was evidently terrified enough1 and also became ill through fear4 ,the fugitive villagers remained only a few weeks with their new master ,masiko1 and then fled back again1 and were received as if they had done nothing wrong4 ,all united in abusing the conduct of ,sekobinyane1 and no one condemned the fugitives2 and the cattle1 the use of which they had previously enjoyed1 never having been removed from their village1 they re-established themselves with apparent gladness4 ,this incident may give some idea of the serfdom of the subject tribes1 and1 except that they are sometimes punished for running away and other offenses1 ,i can add nothing more by way of showing the true nature of this form of servitude4 ,leaving ,naliele1 amid abundance of good wishes for the success of our expedition1 and hopes that we might return accompanied with white traders1 we began again our ascent of the river4 ,it was now beginning to rise1 though the rains had but just commenced in the valley4 ,the banks are low1 but cleanly cut1 and seldom sloping4 ,at low water they are from four to eight feet high1 and make the river always assume very much the aspect of a canal4 ,they are in some parts of whitish1 tenacious clay1 with strata of black clay intermixed1 and black loam in sand1 or pure sand stratified4 ,as the river rises it is always wearing to one side or the other1 and is known to have cut across from one bend to another1 and to form new channels4 ,as we coast along the shore1 pieces which are undermined often fall in with a splash like that caused by the plunge of an alligator1 and endanger the canoe4 ,these perpendicular banks afford building-places to a pretty bee-eater199 which loves to breed in society4 ,the face of the sand-bank is perforated with hundreds of holes leading to their nests1 each of which is about a foot apart from the other2 and as we pass they pour out of their hiding-places1 and float overhead4 99 ',merops apiaster' and ',m4 bullockoides' 7,smith74 ,a speckled kingfisher is seen nearly every hundred yards1 which builds in similar spots1 and attracts the attention of herd-boys1 who dig out its nest for the sake of the young4 ,this1 and a most lovely little blue and orange kingfisher1 are seen every where along the banks1 dashing down like a shot into the water for their prey4 ,a third1 seen more rarely1 is as large as a pigeon1 and is of a slaty color4 ,another inhabitant of the banks is the sand-martin1 which also likes company in the work of raising a family4 ,they never leave this part of the country4 ,one may see them preening themselves in the very depth of winter1 while the swallows1 of which we shall yet speak1 take winter trips4 ,i saw sand-martins at the ,orange ,river during a period of winter frost2 it is1 therefore1 probable that they do not migrate even from thence4 ,around the reeds1 which in some parts line the banks1 we see fresh-water sponges4 ,they usually encircle the stalk1 and are hard and brittle1 presenting numbers of small round grains near their circumference4 ,the river was running at the rate of five miles an hour1 and carried bunches of reed and decaying vegetable matter on its surface2 yet the water was not discolored4 ,it had1 however1 a slightly yellowish-green tinge1 somewhat deeper than its natural color4 ,this arose from the quantity of sand carried by the rising flood from sand-banks1 which are annually shifted from one spot to another1 and from the pieces falling in as the banks are worn2 for when the water is allowed to stand in a glass1 a few seconds suffice for its deposit at the bottom4 ,this is considered an unhealthy period4 ,when waiting1 on one occasion1 for the other canoes to come up1 ,i felt no inclination to leave the one ,i was in2 but my head boatman1 ,mashauana1 told me never to remain on board while so much vegetable matter was floating down the stream4 #ag,,th ,,december4 ,at ,libonta4 ,we were detained for days together collecting contributions of fat and butter1 according to the orders of ,sekeletu1 as presents to the ,balonda chiefs4 ,much fever prevailed1 and ophthalmia was rife1 as is generally the case before the rains begin4 ,some of my own men required my assistance1 as well as the people of ,libonta4 ,a lion had done a good deal of mischief here1 and when the people went to attack it two men were badly wounded2 one of them had his thigh-bone quite broken1 showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws4 ,the inflammation produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to one of them4 ,here we demanded the remainder of the captives1 and got our number increased to nineteen4 ,they consisted of women and children1 and one young man of twenty4 ,one of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as we embarked4 ,the ,makololo under-chiefs often act in direct opposition to the will of the head chief1 trusting to circumstances and brazenfacedness to screen themselves from his open displeasure2 and as he does not always find it convenient to notice faults1 they often go to considerable lengths in wrong-doing4 ,libonta is the last town of the ,makololo2 so1 when we parted from it1 we had only a few cattle-stations and outlying hamlets in front1 and then an uninhabited border country till we came to ,londa or ,lunda4 ,libonta is situated on a mound like the rest of the villages in the ,barotse valley1 but here the tree-covered sides of the valley begin to approach nearer the river4 ,the village itself belongs to two of the chief wives of ,sebituane1 who furnished us with an ox and abundance of other food4 ,the same kindness was manifested by all who could afford to give any thing2 and as ,i glance over their deeds of generosity recorded in my journal1 my heart glows with gratitude to them1 and ,i hope and pray that ,god may spare me to make them some return4 ,before leaving the villages entirely1 we may glance at our way of spending the nights4 ,as soon as we land1 some of the men cut a little grass for my bed1 while ,mashauana plants the poles of the little tent4 ,these are used by day for carrying burdens1 for the ,barotse fashion is exactly like that of the natives of ,india1 only the burden is fastened near the ends of the pole1 and not suspended by long cords4 ,the bed is made1 and boxes ranged on each side of it1 and then the tent pitched over all4 ,four or five feet in front of my tent is placed the principal or kotla fire1 the wood for which must be collected by the man who occupies the post of herald1 and takes as his perquisite the heads of all the oxen slaughtered1 and of all the game too4 ,each person knows the station he is to occupy1 in reference to the post of honor at the fire in front of the door of the tent4 ,the two ,makololo occupy my right and left1 both in eating and sleeping1 as long as the journey lasts4 ,but ,mashauana1 my head boatman1 makes his bed at the door of the tent as soon as ,i retire4 ,the rest1 divided into small companies according to their tribes1 make sheds all round the fire1 leaving a horseshoe-shaped space in front sufficient for the cattle to stand in4 ,the fire gives confidence to the oxen1 so the men are always careful to keep them in sight of it4 ,the sheds are formed by planting two stout forked poles in an inclined direction1 and placing another over these in a horizontal position4 ,a number of branches are then stuck in the ground in the direction to which the poles are inclined1 the twigs drawn down to the horizontal pole and tied with strips of bark4 ,long grass is then laid over the branches in sufficient quantity to draw off the rain1 and we have sheds open to the fire in front1 but secure from beasts behind4 ,in less than an hour we were usually all under cover4 ,we never lacked abundance of grass during the whole journey4 ,it is a picturesque sight at night1 when the clear bright moon of these climates glances on the sleeping forms around1 to look out upon the attitudes of profound repose both men and beasts assume4 ,there being no danger from wild animals in such a night1 the fires are allowed almost to go out2 and as there is no fear of hungry dogs coming over sleepers and devouring the food1 or quietly eating up the poor fellows' blankets1 which at best were but greasy skins1 which sometimes happened in the villages1 the picture was one of perfect peace4 ,the cooking is usually done in the natives' own style1 and1 as they carefully wash the dishes1 pots1 and the hands before handling food1 it is by no means despicable4 ,sometimes alterations are made at my suggestion1 and then they believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion4 ,the cook always comes in for something left in the pot1 so all are eager to obtain the office4 ,i taught several of them to wash my shirts1 and they did it well1 though their teacher had never been taught that work himself4 ,frequent changes of linen and sunning of my blanket kept me more comfortable than might have been anticipated1 and ,i feel certain that the lessons of cleanliness rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood helped to maintain that respect which these people entertain for ,european ways4 ,it is questionable if a descent to barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savages4 ,when quite beyond the inhabited parts1 we found the country abounding in animal life of every form4 ,there are upward of thirty species of birds on the river itself4 ,hundreds of the ',ibis religiosa' come down the ,leeambye with the rising water1 as they do on the ,nile2 then large white pelicans1 in flocks of three hundred at a time1 following each other in long extending line1 rising and falling as they fly so regularly all along as to look like an extended coil of birds2 clouds of a black shell-eating bird1 called linongolo 7',anastomus lamelligerus'72 also plovers1 snipes1 curlews1 and herons without number4 ,there are1 besides the more common1 some strange varieties4 ,the pretty white 'ardetta' is seen in flocks1 settling on the backs of large herds of buffaloes1 and following them on the wing when they run2 while the kala 7',textor erythrorhynchus'7 is a better horseman1 for it sits on the withers when the animal is at full speed4 ,then those strange birds1 the scissor-bills1 with snow-white breast1 jet-black coat1 and red beak1 sitting by day on the sand-banks1 the very picture of comfort and repose4 ,their nests are only little hollows made on these same sand-banks1 without any attempt of concealment2 they watch them closely1 and frighten away the marabou and crows from their eggs by feigned attacks at their heads4 ,when man approaches their nests1 they change their tactics1 and1 like the lapwing and ostrich1 let one wing drop and make one leg limp1 as if lame4 ,the upper mandible being so much shorter than the lower1 the young are more helpless than the stork in the fable with the flat dishes1 and must have every thing conveyed into the mouth by the parents till they are able to provide for themselves4 ,the lower mandible1 as thin as a paper-knife1 is put into the water while the bird skims along the surface1 and scoops up any little insects it meets4 ,it has great length of wing1 and can continue its flight with perfect ease1 the wings acting1 though kept above the level of the body4 ,the wonder is1 how this plowing of the surface of the water can be so well performed as to yield a meal1 for it is usually done in the dark4 ,like most aquatic feeders1 they work by night1 when insects and fishes rise to the surface4 ,they have great affection for their young1 its amount being increased in proportion to the helplessness of the offspring4 ,there are also numbers of spoonbills1 nearly white in plumage2 the beautiful1 stately flamingo2 the ,numidian crane1 or demoiselle1 some of which1 tamed at ,government ,house1 ,cape ,town1 struck every one as most graceful ornaments to a noble mansion1 as they perched on its pillars4 ,there are two cranes besides--one light blue1 the other also light blue1 but with a white neck2 and gulls 7',procellaria'7 of different sizes abound4 ,one pretty little wader1 an avoset1 appears as if standing on stilts1 its legs are so long2 and its bill seems bent the wrong way1 or upward4 ,it is constantly seen wading in the shallows1 digging up little slippery insects1 the peculiar form of the bill enabling it to work them easily out of the sand4 ,when feeding1 it puts its head under the water to seize the insect at the bottom1 then lifts it up quickly1 making a rapid gobbling1 as if swallowing a wriggling worm4 ,the ',parra ,africana' runs about on the surface1 as if walking on water1 catching insects4 ,it too has long1 thin legs1 and extremely long toes1 for the purpose of enabling it to stand on the floating lotus-leaves and other aquatic plants4 ,when it stands on a lotus-leaf five inches in diameter1 the spread of the toes1 acting on the principle of snow-shoes1 occupies all the surface1 and it never sinks1 though it obtains a livelihood1 not by swimming or flying1 but by walking on the water4 ,water-birds1 whose prey or food requires a certain aim or action in one direction1 have bills quite straight in form1 as the heron and snipe2 while those which are intended to come in contact with hard substances1 as breaking shells1 have the bills gently curved1 in order that the shock may not be communicated to the brain4 ,the ,barotse valley contains great numbers of large black geese499 ,they may be seen every where walking slowly about1 feeding4 ,they have a strong black spur on the shoulder1 like the armed plover1 and as strong as that on the heel of a cock1 but are never seen to use them1 except in defense of their young4 ,they choose ant-hills for their nests1 and in the time of laying the ,barotse consume vast quantities of their eggs4 ,there are also two varieties of geese1 of somewhat smaller size1 but better eating4 ,one of these1 the ,egyptian goose1 or ,vulpanser1 can not rise from the water1 and during the floods of the river great numbers are killed by being pursued in canoes4 ,the third is furnished with a peculiar knob on the beak4 ,these1 with myriads of ducks of three varieties1 abound every where on the ,leeambye4 ,on one occasion the canoe neared a bank on which a large flock was sitting4 ,two shots furnished our whole party with a supper1 for we picked up seventeen ducks and a goose4 ,no wonder the ,barotse always look back to this fruitful valley as the ,israelites did to the flesh-pots of ,egypt4 ,the poorest persons are so well supplied with food from their gardens1 fruits from the forest trees1 and fish from the river1 that their children1 when taken into the service of the ,makololo1 where they have only one large meal a day1 become quite emaciated1 and pine for a return to their parents4 99 ',anser leucagaster' and 'melanogaster'4 ,part of our company marched along the banks with the oxen1 and part went in the canoes1 but our pace was regulated by the speed of the men on shore4 ,their course was rather difficult1 on account of the numbers of departing and re-entering branches of the ,leeambye1 which they had to avoid or wait at till we ferried them over4 ,the number of alligators is prodigious1 and in this river they are more savage than in some others4 ,many children are carried off annually at ,sesheke and other towns2 for1 notwithstanding the danger1 when they go down for water they almost always must play a while4 ,this reptile is said by the natives to strike the victim with its tail1 then drag him in and drown him4 ,when lying in the water watching for prey1 the body never appears4 ,many calves are lost also1 and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at ,sesheke without some loss4 ,i never could avoid shuddering on seeing my men swimming across these branches1 after one of them had been caught by the thigh and taken below4 ,he1 however1 retained1 as nearly all of them in the most trying circumstances do1 his full presence of mind1 and1 having a small1 square1 ragged-edged javelin with him1 when dragged to the bottom gave the alligator a stab behind the shoulder4 ,the alligator1 writhing in pain1 left him1 and he came out with the deep marks of the reptile's teeth on his thigh4 ,here the people have no antipathy to persons who have met with such an adventure1 but1 in the ,bamangwato and ,bakwain tribes1 if a man is either bitten or even has had water splashed over him by the reptile's tail1 he is expelled his tribe4 ,when on the ,zouga we saw one of the ,bamangwato living among the ,bayeiye1 who had the misfortune to have been bitten and driven out of his tribe in consequence4 ,fearing that ,i would regard him with the same disgust which his countrymen profess to feel1 he would not tell me the cause of his exile1 but the ,bayeiye informed me of it1 and the scars of the teeth were visible on his thigh4 ,if the ,bakwains happened to go near an alligator they would spit on the ground1 and indicate its presence by saying ,boleo ki bo--,there is sin4 ,they imagine the mere sight of it would give inflammation of the eyes2 and though they eat the zebra without hesitation1 yet if one bites a man he is expelled the tribe1 and obliged to take his wife and family away to the ,kalahari4 ,these curious relics of the animal-worship of former times scarcely exist among the ,makololo4 ,sebituane acted on the principle1 ,whatever is food for men is food for me2 so no man is here considered unclean4 ,the ,barotse appear inclined to pray to alligators and eat them too1 for when ,i wounded a water-antelope1 called mochose1 it took to the water2 when near the other side of the river an alligator appeared at its tail1 and then both sank together4 ,mashauana1 who was nearer to it than ,i1 told me that1 though he had called to it to let his meat alone1 it refused to listen4 ,one day we passed some ,barotse lads who had speared an alligator1 and were waiting in expectation of its floating soon after4 ,the meat has a strong musky odor1 not at all inviting for any one except the very hungry4 ,when we had gone thirty or forty miles above ,libonta we sent eleven of our captives to the west1 to the chief called ,makoma1 with an explanatory message4 ,this caused some delay2 but as we were loaded with presents of food from the ,makololo1 and the wild animals were in enormous herds1 we fared sumptuously4 ,it was grievous1 however1 to shoot the lovely creatures1 they were so tame4 ,with but little skill in stalking1 one could easily get within fifty or sixty yards of them4 ,there ,i lay1 looking at the graceful forms and motions of beautiful pokus199 leches1 and other antelopes1 often till my men1 wondering what was the matter1 came up to see1 and frightened them away4 ,if we had been starving1 ,i could have slaughtered them with as little hesitation as ,i should cut off a patient's leg2 but ,i felt a doubt1 and the antelopes got the benefit of it4 ,have they a guardian spirit over them8 ,i have repeatedly observed1 when ,i approached a herd lying beyond an ant-hill with a tree on it1 and viewed them with the greatest caution1 they very soon showed symptoms of uneasiness4 ,they did not sniff danger in the wind1 for ,i was to leeward of them2 but the almost invariable apprehension of danger which arose1 while unconscious of the direction in which it lay1 made me wonder whether each had what the ancient physicians thought we all possessed1 an archon1 or presiding spirit4 99 ,i propose to name this new species ',antilope ,vardonii'1 after the ,african traveler1 ,major ,vardon4 ,if we could ascertain the most fatal spot in an animal1 we could dispatch it with the least possible amount of suffering2 but as that is probably the part to which the greatest amount of nervous influence is directed at the moment of receiving the shot1 if we can not be sure of the heart or brain1 we are never certain of speedy death4 ,antelopes1 formed for a partially amphibious existence1 and other animals of that class1 are much more tenacious of life than those which are purely terrestrial4 ,most antelopes1 when in distress or pursued1 make for the water4 ,if hunted1 they always do4 ,a leche shot right through the body1 and no limb-bone broken1 is almost sure to get away1 while a zebra1 with a wound of no greater severity1 will probably drop down dead4 ,i have seen a rhinoceros1 while standing apparently chewing the cud1 drop down dead from a shot in the stomach1 while others shot through one lung and the stomach go off as if little hurt4 ,but if one should crawl up silently to within twenty yards either of the white or black rhinoceros1 throwing up a pinch of dust every now and then1 to find out that the anxiety to keep the body concealed by the bushes has not led him to the windward side1 then sit down1 rest the elbow on the knees1 and aim1 slanting a little upward1 at a dark spot behind the shoulders1 it falls stone dead4 ,to show that a shock on the part of the system to which much nervous force is at the time directed will destroy life1 it may be mentioned that an eland1 when hunted1 can be dispatched by a wound which does little more than injure the muscular system2 its whole nervous force is then imbuing the organs of motion2 and a giraffe1 when pressed hard by a good horse only two or three hundred yards1 has been known to drop down dead1 without any wound being inflicted at all4 ,a full gallop by an eland or giraffe quite dissipates its power1 and the hunters1 aware of this1 always try to press them at once to it1 knowing that they have but a short space to run before the animals are in their power4 ,in doing this1 the old sportsmen are careful not to go too close to the giraffe's tail1 for this animal can swing his hind foot round in a way which would leave little to choose between a kick with it and a clap from the arm of a windmill4 ,when the nervous force is entire1 terrible wounds may be inflicted without killing2 a tsessebe having been shot through the neck while quietly feeding1 we went to him1 and one of the men cut his throat deep enough to bleed him largely4 ,he started up after this and ran more than a mile1 and would have got clear off had not a dog brought him to bay under a tree1 where we found him standing4 ,my men1 having never had fire-arms in their hands before1 found it so difficult to hold the musket steady at the flash of fire in the pan1 that they naturally expected me to furnish them with gun medicine1 without which1 it is almost universally believed1 no one can shoot straight4 ,great expectations had been formed when ,i arrived among the ,makololo on this subject2 but1 having invariably declined to deceive them1 as some for their own profit have done1 my men now supposed that ,i would at last consent1 and thereby relieve myself from the hard work of hunting by employing them after due medication4 ,this ,i was most willing to do1 if ,i could have done it honestly2 for1 having but little of the hunting 'furore' in my composition1 ,i always preferred eating the game to killing it4 ,sulphur is the remedy most admired1 and ,i remember ,sechele giving a large price for a very small bit4 ,he also gave some elephants' tusks1 worth #cj ,pounds1 for another medicine which was to make him invulnerable to musket balls4 ,as ,i uniformly recommended that these things should be tested by experiment1 a calf was anointed with the charm and tied to a tree4 ,it proved decisive1 and ,sechele remarked it was pleasanter to be deceived than undeceived4 ,i offered sulphur for the same purpose1 but that was declined1 even though a person came to the town afterward and rubbed his hands with a little before a successful trial of shooting at a mark4 ,i explained to my men the nature of a gun1 and tried to teach them1 but they would soon have expended all the ammunition in my possession4 ,i was thus obliged to do all the shooting myself ever afterward4 ,their inability was rather a misfortune2 for1 in consequence of working too soon after having been bitten by the lion1 the bone of my left arm had not united well4 ,continual hard manual labor1 and some falls from ox-back1 lengthened the ligament by which the ends of the bones were united1 and a false joint was the consequence4 ,the limb has never been painful1 as those of my companions on the day of the rencounter with the lion have been1 but1 there being a joint too many1 ,i could not steady the rifle1 and was always obliged to shoot with the piece resting on the left shoulder4 ,i wanted steadiness of aim1 and it generally happened that the more hungry the party became1 the more frequently ,i missed the animals4 ,we spent a ,sunday on our way up to the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye4 ,rains had fallen here before we came1 and the woods had put on their gayest hue4 ,flowers of great beauty and curious forms grow every where2 they are unlike those in the south1 and so are the trees4 ,many of the forest-tree leaves are palmated and largely developed2 the trunks are covered with lichens1 and the abundance of ferns which appear in the woods shows we are now in a more humid climate than any to the south of the ,barotse valley4 ,the ground begins to swarm with insect life2 and in the cool1 pleasant mornings the welkin rings with the singing of birds1 which is not so delightful as the notes of birds at home1 because ,i have not been familiar with them from infancy4 ,the notes here1 however1 strike the mind by their loudness and variety1 as the wellings forth from joyous hearts of praise to ,him who fills them with overflowing gladness4 ,all of us rise early to enjoy the luscious balmy air of the morning4 ,we then have worship2 but1 amid all the beauty and loveliness with which we are surrounded1 there is still a feeling of want in the soul in viewing one's poor companions1 and hearing bitter1 impure words jarring on the ear in the perfection of the scenes of ,nature1 and a longing that both their hearts and ours might be brought into harmony with the ,great ,father of ,spirits4 ,i pointed out1 in1 as usual1 the simplest words ,i could employ1 the remedy which ,god has presented to us1 in the inexpressibly precious gift of ,his own ,son1 on whom the ,lord laid the iniquity of us all4 ,the great difficulty in dealing with these people is to make the subject plain4 ,the minds of the auditors can not be understood by one who has not mingled much with them4 ,they readily pray for the forgiveness of sins1 and then sin again2 confess the evil of it1 and there the matter ends4 ,i shall not often advert to their depravity4 ,my practice has always been to apply the remedy with all possible earnestness1 but never allow my own mind to dwell on the dark shades of men's characters4 ,i have never been able to draw pictures of guilt1 as if that could awaken ,christian sympathy4 ,the evil is there4 ,but all around in this fair creation are scenes of beauty1 and to turn from these to ponder on deeds of sin can not promote a healthy state of the faculties4 ,i attribute much of the bodily health ,i enjoy to following the plan adopted by most physicians1 who1 while engaged in active1 laborious efforts to assist the needy1 at the same time follow the delightful studies of some department of natural history4 ,the human misery and sin we endeavor to alleviate and cure may be likened to the sickness and impurity of some of the back slums of great cities4 ,one contents himself by ministering to the sick and trying to remove the causes1 without remaining longer in the filth than is necessary for his work2 another1 equally anxious for the public good1 stirs up every cesspool1 that he may describe its reeking vapors1 and1 by long contact with impurities1 becomes himself infected1 sickens1 and dies4 ,the men went about during the day1 and brought back wild fruits of several varieties1 which ,i had not hitherto seen4 ,one1 called mogametsa1 is a bean with a little pulp round it1 which tastes like sponge-cake2 another1 named mawa1 grows abundantly on a low bush4 ,there are many berries and edible bulbs almost every where4 ,the mamosho or moshomosho1 and milo 7a medlar71 were to be found near our encampment4 ,these are both good1 if indeed one can be a fair judge who felt quite disposed to pass a favorable verdict on every fruit which had the property of being eatable at all4 ,many kinds are better than our crab-apple or sloe1 and1 had they the care and culture these have enjoyed1 might take high rank among the fruits of the world4 ,all that the ,africans have thought of has been present gratification2 and now1 as ,i sometimes deposit date-seeds in the soil1 and tell them ,i have no hope whatever of seeing the fruit1 it seems to them as the act of the ,south ,sea ,islanders appears to us1 when they planted in their gardens iron nails received from ,captain ,cook4 ,there are many fruits and berries in the forests1 the uses of which are unknown to my companions4 ,great numbers of a kind of palm ,i have never met with before were seen growing at and below the confluence of the ,loeti and ,leeambye2 the seed probably came down the former river4 ,it is nearly as tall as the palmyra4 ,the fruit is larger than of that species2 it is about four inches long1 and has a soft yellow pulp round the kernel or seed2 when ripe1 it is fluid and stringy1 like the wild mango1 and not very pleasant to eat4 ,before we came to the junction of the ,leeba and ,leeambye we found the banks twenty feet high1 and composed of marly sandstone4 ,they are covered with trees1 and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants4 ,i suspect the fly has some connection with this animal1 and the ,portuguese in the district of ,tete must think so too1 for they call it the ',musca da elephant' 7the elephant fly74 ,the water of inundation covers even these lofty banks1 but does not stand long upon them2 hence the crop of trees4 ,where it remains for any length of time1 trees can not live4 ,on the right bank1 or that in which the ,loeti flows1 there is an extensive flat country called ,manga1 which1 though covered with grass1 is destitute in a great measure of trees4 ,flocks of green pigeons rose from the trees as we passed along the banks1 and the notes of many birds told that we were now among strangers of the feathered tribe4 ,the beautiful trogon1 with bright scarlet breast and black back1 uttered a most peculiar note1 similar to that we read of as having once been emitted by ,memnon1 and likened to the tuning of a lyre4 ,the boatmen answered it by calling ,nama1 nama6--meat1 meat--as if they thought that a repetition of the note would be a good omen for our success in hunting4 ,many more interesting birds were met2 but ,i could make no collection1 as ,i was proceeding on the plan of having as little luggage as possible1 so as not to excite the cupidity of those through whose country we intended to pass4 ,vast shoals of fish come down the ,leeambye with the rising waters1 as we observed they also do in the ,zouga4 ,they are probably induced to make this migration by the increased rapidity of the current dislodging them from their old pasture-grounds higher up the river4 ,insects constitute but a small portion of the food of many fish4 ,fine vegetable matter1 like slender mosses1 growing on the bottom1 is devoured greedily2 and as the fishes are dislodged from the main stream by the force of the current1 and find abundant pasture on the flooded plains1 the whole community becomes disturbed and wanders4 ,the mosala 7',clarias ,capensis' and ',glanis siluris'71 the mullet 7',mugil ,africanus'71 and other fishes1 spread over the ,barotse valley in such numbers that when the waters retire all the people are employed in cutting them up and drying them in the sun4 ,the supply exceeds the demand1 and the land in numerous places is said to emit a most offensive smell4 ,wherever you see the ,zambesi in the centre of the country1 it is remarkable for the abundance of animal life in and upon its waters1 and on the adjacent banks4 ,we passed great numbers of hippopotami4 ,they are very numerous in the parts of the river where they are never hunted4 ,the males appear of a dark color1 the females of yellowish brown4 ,there is not such a complete separation of the sexes among them as among elephants4 ,they spend most of their time in the water1 lolling about in a listless1 dreamy manner4 ,when they come out of the river by night1 they crop off the soft succulent grasses very neatly4 ,when they blow1 they puff up the water about three feet high4 ,chapter #ae4 ,message to ,masiko1 the ,barotse ,chief1 regarding the ,captives-- ,navigation of the ,leeambye--,capabilities of this ,district--,the ,leeba--,flowers and ,bees--,buffalo-hunt--,field for a ,botanist--,young ,alligators2 their savage ,nature--,suspicion of the ,balonda--,sekelenke's ,present--,a ,man and his two ,wives--,hunters--,message from ,manenko1 a female ,chief--,mambari ,traders--,a ,dream--,sheakondo and his ,people--,teeth-filing--,desire for ,butter--,interview with ,nyamoana1 another female ,chief--,court ,etiquette--,hair versus ,wool--,increase of ,superstition--,arrival of ,manenko2 her ,appearance and ,husband--,mode of ,salutation--,anklets--,embassy1 with a ,present from ,masiko--,roast ,beef--,manioc--,magic ,lantern--,manenko an accomplished ,scold3 compels us to wait--,unsuccessful ,zebra-hunt4 ,on the #bgth of ,december we were at the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye 7lat4 #ad;d #aj' #eb ,s41 long4 #bc;d #ce' #dj ,e474 ,masiko1 the ,barotse chief1 for whom we had some captives1 lived nearly due east of this point4 ,they were two little boys1 a little girl1 a young man1 and two middle-aged women4 ,one of these was a member of a ,babimpe tribe1 who knock out both upper and lower front teeth as a distinction4 ,as we had been informed by the captives on the previous ,sunday that ,masiko was in the habit of seizing all orphans1 and those who have no powerful friend in the tribe whose protection they can claim1 and selling them for clothing to the ,mambari1 we thought the objection of the women to go first to his town before seeing their friends quite reasonable1 and resolved to send a party of our own people to see them safely among their relatives4 ,i told the captive young man to inform ,masiko that he was very unlike his father ,santuru1 who had refused to sell his people to ,mambari4 ,he will probably be afraid to deliver such a message himself1 but it is meant for his people1 and they will circulate it pretty widely1 and ,masiko may yet feel a little pressure from without4 ,we sent ,mosantu1 a ,batoka man1 and his companions1 with the captives4 ,the ,barotse whom we had were unwilling to go to ,masiko1 since they owe him allegiance as the son of ,santuru1 and while they continue with the ,makololo are considered rebels4 ,the message by ,mosantu was1 that ,i was sorry to find that ,santuru had not borne a wiser son4 ,santuru loved to govern men1 but ,masiko wanted to govern wild beasts only1 as he sold his people to the ,mambari2 adding an explanation of the return of the captives1 and an injunction to him to live in peace1 and prevent his people kidnapping the children and canoes of the ,makololo1 as a continuance in these deeds would lead to war1 which ,i wished to prevent4 ,he was also instructed to say1 if ,masiko wanted fuller explanation of my views1 he must send a sensible man to talk with me at the first town of the ,balonda1 to which ,i was about to proceed4 ,we ferried ,mosantu over to the left bank of the ,leeba4 ,the journey required five days1 but it could not have been at a quicker rate than ten or twelve miles per day2 the children were between seven and eight years of age1 and unable to walk fast in a hot sun4 ,leaving ,mosantu to pursue his course1 we shall take but one glance down the river1 which we are now about to leave1 for it comes at this point from the eastward1 and our course is to be directed to the northwest1 as we mean to go to ,loanda in ,angola4 ,from the confluence1 where we now are1 down to ,mosioatunya1 there are many long reaches1 where a vessel equal to the ,thames steamers plying between the bridges could run as freely as they do on the ,thames4 ,it is often1 even here1 as broad as that river at ,london ,bridge1 but1 without accurate measurement of the depth1 one could not say which contained most water4 ,there are1 however1 many and serious obstacles to a continued navigation for hundreds of miles at a stretch4 ,about ten miles below the confluence of the ,loeti1 for instance1 there are many large sand-banks in the stream2 then you have a hundred miles to the ,river ,simah1 where a ,thames steamer could ply at all times of the year2 but1 again1 the space between ,simah and ,katima-molelo has five or six rapids with cataracts1 one of which1 ,gonye1 could not be passed at any time without portage4 ,between these rapids there are reaches of still1 deep water1 of several miles in length4 ,beyond ,katima-molelo to the confluence of the ,chobe you have nearly a hundred miles again1 of a river capable of being navigated in the same way as in the ,barotse valley4 ,now ,i do not say that this part of the river presents a very inviting prospect for extemporaneous ,european enterprise2 but when we have a pathway which requires only the formation of portages to make it equal to our canals for hundreds of miles1 where the philosophers supposed there was naught but an extensive sandy desert1 we must confess that the future partakes at least of the elements of hope4 ,my deliberate conviction was and is that the part of the country indicated is as capable of supporting millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands4 ,the grass of the ,barotse valley1 for instance1 is such a densely-matted mass that1 when laid1 the stalks bear each other up1 so that one feels as if walking on the sheaves of a hay-stack1 and the leches nestle under it to bring forth their young4 ,the soil which produces this1 if placed under the plow1 instead of being mere pasturage1 would yield grain sufficient to feed vast multitudes4 ,we now began to ascend the ,leeba4 ,the water is black in color as compared with the main stream1 which here assumes the name of ,kabompo4 ,the ,leeba flows placidly1 and1 unlike the parent river1 receives numbers of little rivulets from both sides4 ,it winds slowly through the most charming meadows1 each of which has either a soft1 sedgy centre1 large pond1 or trickling rill down the middle4 ,the trees are now covered with a profusion of the freshest foliage1 and seem planted in groups of such pleasant1 graceful outline that art could give no additional charm4 ,the grass1 which had been burned off and was growing again after the rains1 was short and green1 and all the scenery so like that of a carefully-tended gentleman's park1 that one is scarcely reminded that the surrounding region is in the hands of simple nature alone4 ,i suspect that the level meadows are inundated annually1 for the spots on which the trees stand are elevated three or four feet above them1 and these elevations1 being of different shapes1 give the strange variety of outline of the park-like woods4 ,numbers of a fresh-water shell are scattered all over these valleys4 ,the elevations1 as ,i have observed elsewhere1 are of a soft1 sandy soil1 and the meadows of black1 rich alluvial loam4 ,there are many beautiful flowers1 and many bees to sip their nectar4 ,we found plenty of honey in the woods1 and saw the stages on which the ,balonda dry their meat1 when they come down to hunt and gather the produce of the wild hives4 ,in one part we came upon groups of lofty trees as straight as masts1 with festoons of orchilla-weed hanging from the branches4 ,this1 which is used as a dye-stuff1 is found nowhere in the dry country to the south4 ,it prefers the humid climate near the west coast4 ,a large buffalo was wounded1 and ran into the thickest part of the forest1 bleeding profusely4 ,the young men went on his trail2 and1 though the vegetation was so dense that no one could have run more than a few yards1 most of them went along quite carelessly1 picking and eating a fruit of the melon family called ,mponko4 ,when the animal heard them approach he always fled1 shifting his stand and doubling on his course in the most cunning manner4 ,in other cases ,i have known them to turn back to a point a few yards from their own trail1 and then lie down in a hollow waiting for the hunter to come up4 ,though a heavy1 lumbering-looking animal1 his charge is then rapid and terrific4 ,more accidents happen by the buffalo and the black rhinoceros than by the lion4 ,though all are aware of the mischievous nature of the buffalo when wounded1 our young men went after him quite carelessly4 ,they never lose their presence of mind1 but1 as a buffalo charges back in a forest1 dart dexterously out of his way behind a tree1 and1 wheeling round1 stab him as he passes4 ,a tree in flower brought the pleasant fragrance of hawthorn hedges back to memory2 its leaves1 flowers1 perfumes1 and fruit resembled those of the hawthorn1 only the flowers were as large as dog-roses1 and the haws like boys' marbles4 ,here the flowers smell sweetly1 while few in the south emit any scent at all1 or only a nauseous odor4 ,a botanist would find a rich harvest on the banks of the ,leeba4 ,this would be his best season1 for the flowers all run rapidly to seed1 and then insects of every shape spring into existence to devour them4 ,the climbing plants display great vigor of growth1 being not only thick in the trunk1 but also at the very point1 in the manner of quickly-growing asparagus4 ,the maroro or malolo now appears1 and is abundant in many parts between this and ,angola4 ,it is a small bush with a yellow fruit1 and in its appearance a dwarf anona4 ,the taste is sweet1 and the fruit is wholesome3 it is full of seeds1 like the custard-apple4 ,on the #bhth we slept at a spot on the right bank from which had just emerged two broods of alligators4 ,we had seen many young ones as we came up1 so this seems to be their time of coming forth from the nests1 for we saw them sunning themselves on sand-banks in company with the old ones4 ,we made our fire in one of the deserted nests1 which were strewed all over with the broken shells4 ,at the ,zouga we saw sixty eggs taken out of one such nest alone4 ,they are about the size of those of a goose1 only the eggs of the alligator are of the same diameter at both ends1 and the white shell is partially elastic1 from having a strong internal membrane and but little lime in its composition4 ,the distance from the water was about ten feet1 and there were evidences of the same place having been used for a similar purpose in former years4 ,a broad path led up from the water to the nest1 and the dam1 it was said by my companions1 after depositing the eggs1 covers them up1 and returns afterward to assist the young out of the place of confinement and out of the egg4 ,she leads them to the edge of the water1 and then leaves them to catch small fish for themselves4 ,assistance to come forth seems necessary1 for here1 besides the tough membrane of the shell1 they had four inches of earth upon them2 but they do not require immediate aid for food1 because they all retain a portion of yolk1 equal to that of a hen's egg1 in a membrane in the abdomen1 as a stock of nutriment1 while only beginning independent existence by catching fish4 ,fish is the principal food of both small and large1 and they are much assisted in catching them by their broad1 scaly tails4 ,sometimes an alligator1 viewing a man in the water from the opposite bank1 rushes across the stream with wonderful agility1 as is seen by the high ripple he makes on the surface caused by his rapid motion at the bottom2 but in general they act by stealth1 sinking underneath as soon as they see man4 ,they seldom leave the water to catch prey1 but often come out by day to enjoy the pleasure of basking in the sun4 ,in walking along the bank of the ,zouga once1 a small one1 about three feet long1 made a dash at my feet1 and caused me to rush quickly in another direction2 but this is unusual1 for ,i never heard of a similar case4 ,a wounded leche1 chased into any of the lagoons in the ,barotse valley1 or a man or dog going in for the purpose of bringing out a dead one1 is almost sure to be seized1 though the alligators may not appear on the surface4 ,when employed in looking for food they keep out of sight2 they fish chiefly by night4 ,when eating1 they make a loud1 champing noise1 which when once heard is never forgotten4 ,the young1 which had come out of the nests where we spent the night1 did not appear wary2 they were about ten inches long1 with yellow eyes1 and pupil merely a perpendicular slit4 ,they were all marked with transverse slips of pale green and brown1 half an inch broad4 ,when speared1 they bit the weapon savagely1 though their teeth were but partially developed1 uttering at the same time a sharp bark like that of a whelp when it first begins to use its voice4 ,i could not ascertain whether the dam devours them1 as reported1 or whether the ichneumon has the same reputation here as in ,egypt4 ,probably the ,barotse and ,bayeiye would not look upon it as a benefactor2 they prefer to eat the eggs themselves1 and be their own ichneumons4 ,the white of the egg does not coagulate1 but the yolk does1 and this is the only part eaten4 ,as the population increases1 the alligators will decrease1 for their nests will be oftener found2 the principal check on their inordinate multiplication seems to be man4 ,they are more savage and commit more mischief in the ,leeambye than in any other river4 ,after dancing long in the moonlight nights1 young men run down to the water to wash off the dust and cool themselves before going to bed1 and are thus often carried away4 ,one wonders they are not afraid2 but the fact is1 they have as little sense of danger impending over them as the hare has when not actually pursued by the hound1 and in many rencounters1 in which they escape1 they had not time to be afraid1 and only laugh at the circumstance afterward3 there is a want of calm reflection4 ,in many cases1 not referred to in this book1 ,i feel more horror now in thinking on dangers ,i have run than ,i did at the time of their occurrence4 ,when we reached the part of the river opposite to the village of ,manenko1 the first female chief whom we encountered1 two of the people called ,balunda1 or ,balonda1 came to us in their little canoe4 ,from them we learned that ,kolimbota1 one of our party1 who had been in the habit of visiting these parts1 was believed by the ,balonda to have acted as a guide to the marauders under ,lerimo1 whose captives we were now returning4 ,they very naturally suspected this1 from the facility with which their villages had been found1 and1 as they had since removed them to some distance from the river1 they were unwilling to lead us to their places of concealment4 ,we were in bad repute1 but1 having a captive boy and girl to show in evidence of ,sekeletu and ourselves not being partakers in the guilt of inferior men1 ,i could freely express my desire that all should live in peace4 ,they evidently felt that ,i ought to have taught the ,makololo first1 before coming to them1 for they remarked that what ,i advanced was very good1 but guilt lay at the door of the ,makololo for disturbing the previously existing peace4 ,they then went away to report us to ,manenko4 ,when the strangers visited us again in the evening1 they were accompanied by a number of the people of an ,ambonda chief named ,sekelenke4 ,the ,ambonda live far to the ,n4,w42 their language1 the ,bonda1 is the common dialect in ,angola4 ,sekelenke had fled1 and was now living with his village as a vassal of ,masiko4 ,as notices of such men will perhaps convey the best idea of the state of the inhabitants to the reader1 ,i shall hereafter allude to the conduct of ,sekelenke1 whom ,i at present only introduce4 ,sekelenke had gone with his villagers to hunt elephants on the right bank of the ,leeba1 and was now on his way back to ,masiko4 ,he sent me a dish of boiled zebra's flesh1 and a request that ,i should lend him a canoe to ferry his wives and family across the river to the bank on which we were encamped4 ,many of ,sekelenke's people came to salute the first white man they ever had an opportunity of seeing2 but ,sekelenke himself did not come near4 ,we heard he was offended with some of his people for letting me know he was among the company4 ,he said that ,i should be displeased with him for not coming and making some present4 ,this was the only instance in which ,i was shunned in this quarter4 ,as it would have been impolitic to pass ,manenko1 or any chief1 without at least showing so much respect as to call and explain the objects of our passing through the country1 we waited two entire days for the return of the messengers to ,manenko2 and as ,i could not hurry matters1 ,i went into the adjacent country to search for meat for the camp4 ,the country is furnished largely with forest1 having occasionally open lawns covered with grass1 not in tufts as in the south1 but so closely planted that one can not see the soil4 ,we came upon a man and his two wives and children1 burning coarse rushes and the stalks of tsitla1 growing in a brackish marsh1 in order to extract a kind of salt from the ashes4 ,they make a funnel of branches of trees1 and line it with grass rope1 twisted round until it is1 as it were1 a beehive-roof inverted4 ,the ashes are put into water1 in a calabash1 and then it is allowed to percolate through the small hole in the bottom and through the grass4 ,when this water is evaporated in the sun1 it yields sufficient salt to form a relish with food4 ,the women and children fled with precipitation1 but we sat down at a distance1 and allowed the man time to gain courage enough to speak4 ,he1 however1 trembled excessively at the apparition before him2 but when we explained that our object was to hunt game1 and not men1 he became calm1 and called back his wives4 ,we soon afterward came to another party on the same errand with ourselves4 ,the man had a bow about six feet long1 and iron-headed arrows about thirty inches in length2 he had also wooden arrows neatly barbed1 to shoot in cases where he might not be quite certain of recovering them again4 ,we soon afterward got a zebra1 and gave our hunting acquaintances such a liberal share that we soon became friends4 ,all whom we saw that day then came with us to the encampment to beg a little meat2 and as they have so little salt1 ,i have no doubt they felt grateful for what we gave4 ,sekelenke and his people1 twenty-four in number1 defiled past our camp carrying large bundles of dried elephants' meat4 ,most of them came to say good-by1 and ,sekelenke himself sent to say that he had gone to visit a wife living in the village of ,manenko4 ,it was a mere ,african manoeuvre to gain information1 and not commit himself to either one line of action or another with respect to our visit4 ,as he was probably in the party before us1 ,i replied that it was all right1 and when my people came up from ,masiko ,i would go to my wife too4 ,another zebra came to our camp1 and1 as we had friends near1 it was shot4 ,it was the ',equus montanus'1 though the country is perfectly flat1 and was finely marked down to the feet1 as all the zebras are in these parts4 ,to our first message1 offering a visit of explanation to ,manenko1 we got an answer1 with a basket of manioc roots1 that we must remain where we were till she should visit us4 ,having waited two days already for her1 other messengers arrived with orders for me to come to her4 ,after four days of rains and negotiation1 ,i declined going at all1 and proceeded up the river to the small stream ,makondo 7lat4 #ac;d #bc' #ab ,s471 which enters the ,leeba from the east1 and is between twenty and thirty yards broad4 ,,january #a,,st1 #ahed4 ,we had heavy rains almost every day2 indeed1 the rainy season had fairly set in4 ,baskets of the purple fruit called mawa were frequently brought to us by the villagers2 not for sale1 but from a belief that their chiefs would be pleased to hear that they had treated us well2 we gave them pieces of meat in return4 ,when crossing at the confluence of the ,leeba and ,makondo1 one of my men picked up a bit of a steel watch-chain of ,english manufacture1 and we were informed that this was the spot where the ,mambari cross in coming to ,masiko4 ,their visits explain why ,sekelenke kept his tusks so carefully4 ,these ,mambari are very enterprising merchants3 when they mean to trade with a town1 they deliberately begin the affair by building huts1 as if they knew that little business could be transacted without a liberal allowance of time for palaver4 ,they bring ,manchester goods into the heart of ,africa2 these cotton prints look so wonderful that the ,makololo could not believe them to be the work of mortal hands4 ,on questioning the ,mambari they were answered that ,english manufactures came out of the sea1 and beads were gathered on its shore4 ,to ,africans our cotton mills are fairy dreams4 ,how can the irons spin1 weave1 and print so beautifully8 ,our country is like what ,taprobane was to our ancestors--a strange realm of light1 whence came the diamond1 muslin1 and peacocks2 an attempt at explanation of our manufactures usually elicits the expression1 ,truly ye are gods6 ,when about to leave the ,makondo1 one of my men had dreamed that ,mosantu was shut up a prisoner in a stockade3 this dream depressed the spirits of the whole party1 and when ,i came out of my little tent in the morning1 they were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow4 ,i asked if we were to be guided by dreams1 or by the authority ,i derived from ,sekeletu1 and ordered them to load the boats at once2 they seemed ashamed to confess their fears2 the ,makololo picked up courage and upbraided the others for having such superstitious views1 and said this was always their way2 if even a certain bird called to them1 they would turn back from an enterprise1 saying it was unlucky4 ,they entered the canoes at last1 and were the better of a little scolding for being inclined to put dreams before authority4 ,it rained all the morning1 but about eleven we reached the village of ,sheakondo1 on a small stream named ,lonkonye4 ,we sent a message to the head man1 who soon appeared with two wives1 bearing handsome presents of manioc3 ,sheakondo could speak the language of the ,barotse well1 and seemed awestruck when told some of the words of ,god4 ,he manifested no fear1 always spoke frankly1 and when he made an asseveration1 did so by simply pointing up to the sky above him4 ,the ,balonda cultivate the manioc or cassava extensively2 also dura1 ground-nuts1 beans1 maize1 sweet potatoes1 and yams1 here called lekoto1 but as yet we see only the outlying villages4 ,the people who came with ,sheakondo to our bivouac had their teeth filed to a point by way of beautifying them1 though those which were left untouched were always the whitest2 they are generally tattooed in various parts1 but chiefly on the abdomen3 the skin is raised in small elevated cicatrices1 each nearly half an inch long and a quarter of an inch in diameter1 so that a number of them may constitute a star1 or other device4 ,the dark color of the skin prevents any coloring matter being deposited in these figures1 but they love much to have the whole surface of their bodies anointed with a comfortable varnish of oil4 ,in their unassisted state they depend on supplies of oil from the ,palma ,christi1 or castor-oil plant1 or from various other oliferous seeds1 but they are all excessively fond of clarified butter or ox fat4 ,sheakondo's old wife presented some manioc roots1 and then politely requested to be anointed with butter3 as ,i had been bountifully supplied by the ,makololo1 ,i gave her as much as would suffice1 and as they have little clothing1 ,i can readily believe that she felt her comfort greatly enhanced thereby4 ,the favorite wife1 who was also present1 was equally anxious for butter4 ,she had a profusion of iron rings on her ankles1 to which were attached little pieces of sheet iron1 to enable her to make a tinkling as she walked in her mincing ,african style2 the same thing is thought pretty by our own dragoons in walking jauntingly4 ,we had so much rain and cloud that ,i could not get a single observation for either longitude or latitude for a fortnight4 ,yet the ,leeba does not show any great rise1 nor is the water in the least discolored4 ,it is slightly black1 from the number of mossy rills which fall into it4 ,it has remarkably few birds and fish1 while the ,leeambye swarms with both4 ,it is noticeable that alligators here possess more of the fear of man than in the ,leeambye4 ,the ,balonda have taught them1 by their poisoned arrows1 to keep out of sight4 ,we did not see one basking in the sun4 ,the ,balonda set so many little traps for birds that few appear4 ,i observed1 however1 many 7to me7 new small birds of song on its banks4 ,more rain has been falling in the east than here1 for the ,leeambye was rising fast and working against the sandy banks so vigorously that a slight yellow tinge was perceptible in it4 ,one of our men was bitten by a non-venomous serpent1 and of course felt no harm4 ,the ,barotse concluded that this was owing to many of them being present and seeing it1 as if the sight of human eyes could dissolve the poison and act as a charm4 ,on the #fth of ,january we reached the village of another female chief1 named ,nyamoana1 who is said to be the mother of ,manenko1 and sister of ,shinte or ,kabompo1 the greatest ,balonda chief in this part of the country4 ,her people had but recently come to the present locality1 and had erected only twenty huts4 ,her husband1 ,samoana1 was clothed in a kilt of green and red baize1 and was armed with a spear and a broadsword of antique form1 about eighteen inches long and three broad4 ,the chief and her husband were sitting on skins placed in the middle of a circle thirty paces in diameter1 a little raised above the ordinary level of the ground1 and having a trench round it4 ,outside the trench sat about a hundred persons of all ages and both sexes4 ,the men were well armed with bows1 arrows1 spears1 and broadswords4 ,beside the husband sat a rather aged woman1 having a bad outward squint in the left eye4 ,we put down our arms about forty yards off1 and ,i walked up to the centre of the circular bench1 and saluted him in the usual way by clapping the hands together in their fashion4 ,he pointed to his wife1 as much as to say1 the honor belongs to her4 ,i saluted her in the same way1 and a mat having been brought1 ,i squatted down in front of them4 ,the talker was then called1 and ,i was asked who was my spokesman4 ,having pointed to ,kolimbota1 who knew their dialect best1 the palaver began in due form4 ,i explained the real objects ,i had in view1 without any attempt to mystify or appear in any other character than my own1 for ,i have always been satisfied that1 even though there were no other considerations1 the truthful way of dealing with the uncivilized is unquestionably the best4 ,kolimbota repeated to ,nyamoana's talker what ,i had said to him4 ,he delivered it all verbatim to her husband1 who repeated it again to her4 ,it was thus all rehearsed four times over1 in a tone loud enough to be heard by the whole party of auditors4 ,the response came back by the same roundabout route1 beginning at the lady to her husband1 etc4 ,after explanations and re-explanations1 ,i perceived that our new friends were mixing up my message of peace and friendship with ,makololo affairs1 and stated that it was not delivered on the authority of any one less than that of their ,creator1 and that if the ,makololo did again break ,his laws and attack the ,balonda1 the guilt would rest with the ,makololo and not with me4 ,the palaver then came to a close4 ,by way of gaining their confidence1 ,i showed them my hair1 which is considered a curiosity in all this region4 ,they said1 ,is that hair8 ,it is the mane of a lion1 and not hair at all4 ,some thought that ,i had made a wig of lion's mane1 as they sometimes do with fibres of the ife1 and dye it black1 and twist it so as to resemble a mass of their own wool4 ,i could not return the joke by telling them that theirs was not hair1 but the wool of sheep1 for they have none of these in the country2 and even though they had1 as ,herodotus remarked1 the ,african sheep are clothed with hair1 and men's heads with wool4 ,so ,i had to be content with asserting that mine was the real original hair1 such as theirs would have been had it not been scorched and frizzled by the sun4 ,in proof of what the sun could do1 ,i compared my own bronzed face and hands1 then about the same in complexion as the lighter-colored ,makololo1 with the white skin of my chest4 ,they readily believed that1 as they go nearly naked and fully exposed to that influence1 we might be of common origin after all4 ,here1 as every where1 when heat and moisture are combined1 the people are very dark1 but not quite black4 ,there is always a shade of brown in the most deeply colored4 ,i showed my watch and pocket compass1 which are considered great curiosities2 but1 though the lady was called on by her husband to look1 she would not be persuaded to approach near enough4 ,these people are more superstitious than any we had yet encountered2 though still only building their village1 they had found time to erect two little sheds at the chief dwelling in it1 in which were placed two pots having charms in them4 ,when asked what medicine they contained1 they replied1 ,medicine for the ,barimo2 but when ,i rose and looked into them1 they said they were medicine for the game4 ,here we saw the first evidence of the existence of idolatry in the remains of an old idol at a deserted village4 ,it was simply a human head carved on a block of wood4 ,certain charms mixed with red ochre and white pipe-clay are dotted over them when they are in use2 and a crooked stick is used in the same way for an idol when they have no professional carver4 ,as the ,leeba seemed still to come from the direction in which we wished to go1 ,i was desirous of proceeding farther up with the canoes2 but ,nyamoana was anxious that we should allow her people to conduct us to her brother ,shinte2 and when ,i explained the advantage of water-carriage1 she represented that her brother did not live near the river1 and1 moreover1 there was a cataract in front1 over which it would be difficult to convey the canoes4 ,she was afraid1 too1 that the ,balobale1 whose country lies to the west of the river1 not knowing the objects for which we had come1 would kill us4 ,to my reply that ,i had been so often threatened with death if ,i visited a new tribe that ,i was now more afraid of killing any one than of being killed1 she rejoined that the ,balobale would not kill me1 but the ,makololo would all be sacrificed as their enemies4 ,this produced considerable effect on my companions1 and inclined them to the plan of ,nyamoana1 of going to the town of her brother rather than ascending the ,leeba4 ,the arrival of ,manenko herself on the scene threw so much weight into the scale on their side that ,i was forced to yield the point4 ,manenko was a tall1 strapping woman about twenty1 distinguished by a profusion of ornaments and medicines hung round her person2 the latter are supposed to act as charms4 ,her body was smeared all over with a mixture of fat and red ochre1 as a protection against the weather2 a necessary precaution1 for1 like most of the ,balonda ladies1 she was otherwise in a state of frightful nudity4 ,this was not from want of clothing1 for1 being a chief1 she might have been as well clad as any of her subjects1 but from her peculiar ideas of elegance in dress4 ,when she arrived with her husband1 ,sambanza1 they listened for some time to the statements ,i was making to the people of ,nyamoana1 after which the husband1 acting as spokesman1 commenced an oration1 stating the reasons for their coming1 and1 during every two or three seconds of the delivery1 he picked up a little sand1 and rubbed it on the upper part of his arms and chest4 ,this is a common mode of salutation in ,londa2 and when they wish to be excessively polite1 they bring a quantity of ashes or pipe-clay in a piece of skin1 and1 taking up handfuls1 rub it on the chest and upper front part of each arm2 others1 in saluting1 drum their ribs with their elbows2 while others still touch the ground with one cheek after the other1 and clap their hands4 ,the chiefs go through the manoeuvre of rubbing the sand on the arms1 but only make a feint at picking up some4 ,when ,sambanza had finished his oration1 he rose up1 and showed his ankles ornamented with a bundle of copper rings2 had they been very heavy1 they would have made him adopt a straggling walk4 ,some chiefs have really so many as to be forced1 by the weight and size1 to keep one foot apart from the other1 the weight being a serious inconvenience in walking4 ,the gentlemen like ,sambanza1 who wish to imitate their betters1 do so in their walk2 so you see men1 with only a few ounces of ornament on their legs1 strutting along as if they had double the number of pounds4 ,when ,i smiled at ,sambanza's walk1 the people remarked1 ,that is the way in which they show off their lordship in these parts4 ,manenko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy of friendship with the ,makololo which we recommended2 and1 by way of cementing the bond1 she and her counselors proposed that ,kolimbota should take a wife among them4 ,by this expedient she hoped to secure his friendship1 and also accurate information as to the future intentions of the ,makololo4 ,she thought that he would visit the ,balonda more frequently afterward1 having the good excuse of going to see his wife2 and the ,makololo would never1 of course1 kill the villagers among whom so near a relative of one of their own children dwells4 ,kolimbota1 ,i found1 thought favorably of the proposition1 and it afterward led to his desertion from us4 ,on the evening of the day in which ,manenko arrived1 we were delighted by the appearance of ,mosantu and an imposing embassy from ,masiko4 ,it consisted of all his under-chiefs1 and they brought a fine elephant's tusk1 two calabashes of honey1 and a large piece of blue baize1 as a present4 ,the last was intended perhaps to show me that he was a truly great chief1 who had such stores of white men's goods at hand that he could afford to give presents of them2 it might also be intended for ,mosantu1 for chiefs usually remember the servants2 ,i gave it to him4 ,masiko expressed delight1 by his principal men1 at the return of the captives1 and at the proposal of peace and alliance with the ,makololo4 ,he stated that he never sold any of his own people to the ,mambari1 but only captives whom his people kidnapped from small neighboring tribes4 ,when the question was put whether his people had been in the habit of molesting the ,makololo by kidnapping their servants and stealing canoes1 it was admitted that two of his men1 when hunting1 had gone to the ,makololo gardens1 to see if any of their relatives were there4 ,as the great object in all native disputes is to get both parties to turn over a new leaf1 ,i explained the desirableness of forgetting past feuds1 accepting the present ,makololo professions as genuine1 and avoiding in future to give them any cause for marauding4 ,i presented ,masiko with an ox1 furnished by ,sekeletu as provision for ourselves4 ,all these people are excessively fond of beef and butter1 from having been accustomed to them in their youth1 before the ,makololo deprived them of cattle4 ,they have abundance of game1 but ,i am quite of their opinion that1 after all1 there is naught in the world equal to roast beef1 and that in their love for it the ,english show both good taste and sound sense4 ,the ox was intended for ,masiko1 but his men were very anxious to get my sanction for slaughtering it on the spot4 ,i replied that when it went out of my hands ,i had no more to do with it4 ,they1 however1 wished the responsibility of slaughtering it to rest with me2 if ,i had said they might kill it1 not many ounces would have remained in the morning4 ,i would have given permission1 but had nothing else to offer in return for ,masiko's generosity4 ,we were now without any provisions except a small dole of manioc roots each evening from ,nyamoana1 which1 when eaten raw1 produce poisonous effects4 ,a small loaf1 made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal from ,libonta1 was my stock1 and our friends from ,masiko were still more destitute2 yet we all rejoiced so much at their arrival that we resolved to spend a day with them4 ,the ,barotse of our party1 meeting with relatives and friends among the ,barotse of ,masiko1 had many old tales to tell2 and1 after pleasant hungry converse by day1 we regaled our friends with the magic lantern by night1 and1 in order to make the thing of use to all1 we removed our camp up to the village of ,nyamoana4 ,this is a good means of arresting the attention1 and conveying important facts to the minds of these people4 ,when erecting our sheds at the village1 ,manenko fell upon our friends from ,masiko in a way that left no doubt on our minds but that she is a most accomplished scold4 ,masiko had1 on a former occasion1 sent to ,samoana for a cloth1 a common way of keeping up intercourse1 and1 after receiving it1 sent it back1 because it had the appearance of having had witchcraft medicine on it2 this was a grave offense1 and now ,manenko had a good excuse for venting her spleen1 the embassadors having called at her village1 and slept in one of the huts without leave4 ,if her family was to be suspected of dealing in evil charms1 why were ,masiko's people not to be thought guilty of leaving the same in her hut8 ,she advanced and receded in true oratorical style1 belaboring her own servants as well for allowing the offense1 and1 as usual in more civilized feminine lectures1 she leaned over the objects of her ire1 and screamed forth all their faults and failings ever since they were born1 and her despair of ever seeing them become better1 until they were all killed by alligators4 ,masiko's people followed the plan of receiving this torrent of abuse in silence1 and1 as neither we nor they had any thing to eat1 we parted next morning4 ,in reference to ,masiko selling slaves to the ,mambari1 they promised to explain the relationship which exists between even the most abject of his people and our common ,father2 and that no more kidnapping ought to be allowed1 as he ought to give that peace and security to the smaller tribes on his eastern borders which he so much desired to obtain himself from the ,makololo4 ,we promised to return through his town when we came back from the sea-coast4 ,manenko gave us some manioc roots in the morning1 and had determined to carry our baggage to her uncle's1 ,kabompo or ,shinte4 ,we had heard a sample of what she could do with her tongue2 and as neither my men nor myself had much inclination to encounter a scolding from this black ,mrs4 ,caudle1 we made ready the packages2 but she came and said the men whom she had ordered for the service had not yet come2 they would arrive to-morrow4 ,being on low and disagreeable diet1 ,i felt annoyed at this further delay1 and ordered the packages to be put into the canoes to proceed up the river without her servants2 but ,manenko was not to be circumvented in this way2 she came forward with her people1 and said her uncle would be angry if she did not carry forward the tusks and goods of ,sekeletu1 seized the luggage1 and declared that she would carry it in spite of me4 ,my men succumbed sooner to this petticoat government than ,i felt inclined to do1 and left me no power2 and1 being unwilling to encounter her tongue1 ,i was moving off to the canoes1 when she gave me a kind explanation1 and1 with her hand on my shoulder1 put on a motherly look1 saying1 ,now1 my little man1 just do as the rest have done4 ,my feelings of annoyance of course vanished1 and ,i went out to try and get some meat4 ,the only game to be found in these parts are the ,,zebra1 the ,,kualata or tahetsi 7',aigoceros equina'71 kama 7',bubalus caama'71 buffaloes1 and the small antelope hakitenwe 7',philantomba'74 ,the animals can be seen here only by following on their trail for many miles4 ,urged on by hunger1 we followed that of some zebras during the greater part of the day3 when within fifty yards of them1 in a dense thicket1 ,i made sure of one1 but1 to my infinite disgust1 the gun missed fire1 and off they bounded4 ,the climate is so very damp1 from daily heavy rains1 that every thing becomes loaded with moisture1 and the powder in the gun-nipples can not be kept dry4 ,it is curious to mark the intelligence of the game2 in districts where they are much annoyed by fire-arms1 they keep out on the most open spots of country they can find1 in order to have a widely-extended range of vision1 and a man armed is carefully shunned4 ,from the frequency with which ,i have been allowed to approach nearer without than with a gun1 ,i believe they know the difference between safety and danger in the two cases4 ,but here1 where they are killed by the arrows of the ,balonda1 they select for safety the densest forest1 where the arrow can not be easily shot4 ,the variation in the selection of standing-spots during the day may1 however1 be owing partly to the greater heat of the sun1 for here it is particularly sharp and penetrating4 ,however accounted for1 the wild animals here do select the forests by day1 while those farther south generally shun these covers1 and1 on several occasions1 ,i have observed there was no sunshine to cause them to seek for shade4 ,chapter #af4 ,nyamoana's ,present--,charms--,manenko's pedestrian ,powers--,an ,idol-- ,balonda ,arms--,rain--,hunger--,palisades--,dens e ,forests--,artificial ,beehives--,mushrooms--,villagers lend the ,roofs of their ,houses --,divination and ,idols--,manenko's ,whims--,a night ,alarm--,shinte's ,messengers and ,present--,the proper ,way to approach a ,village--,a ,merman--,enter ,shinte's ,town3 its ,appearance--,meet two half-caste ,slave-traders--,the ,makololo scorn them--,the ,balonda real ,negroes--,grand ,reception from ,shinte--,his ,kotla--,ceremony of ,introduction--,the ,orators--,women--,musicians and ,musical ,instruments--,a disagreeable ,request--,private ,interviews with ,shinte--,give him an ,ox--,fertility of ,soil--,manenko's new ,hut--,conversation with ,shinte--,kolimbota's ,proposal--,balonda's ,punctiliousness--,selling ,children--,kidnapping-- ,shinte's ,offer of a ,slave--,magic ,lantern--,alarm of ,women-- ,delay--,sambanza returns intoxicated--,the last and greatest ,proof of ,shinte's ,friendship4 #aa,,th ,,of ,,january1 #ahed4 ,on starting this morning1 ,samoana 7or rather ,nyamoana1 for the ladies are the chiefs here7 presented a string of beads1 and a shell highly valued among them1 as an atonement for having assisted ,manenko1 as they thought1 to vex me the day before4 ,they seemed anxious to avert any evil which might arise from my displeasure2 but having replied that ,i never kept my anger up all night1 they were much pleased to see me satisfied4 ,we had to cross1 in a canoe1 a stream which flows past the village of ,nyamoana4 ,manenko's doctor waved some charms over her1 and she took some in her hand and on her body before she ventured upon the water4 ,one of my men spoke rather loudly when near the doctor's basket of medicines4 ,the doctor reproved him1 and always spoke in a whisper himself1 glancing back to the basket as if afraid of being heard by something therein4 ,so much superstition is quite unknown in the south1 and is mentioned here to show the difference in the feelings of this new people1 and the comparative want of reverence on these points among ,caffres and ,bechuanas4 ,manenko was accompanied by her husband and her drummer2 the latter continued to thump most vigorously until a heavy1 drizzling mist set in and compelled him to desist4 ,her husband used various incantations and vociferations to drive away the rain1 but down it poured incessantly1 and on our ,amazon went1 in the very lightest marching order1 and at a pace that few of the men could keep up with4 ,being on ox-back1 ,i kept pretty close to our leader1 and asked her why she did not clothe herself during the rain1 and learned that it is not considered proper for a chief to appear effeminate4 ,he or she must always wear the appearance of robust youth1 and bear vicissitudes without wincing4 ,my men1 in admiration of her pedestrian powers1 every now and then remarked1 ,manenko is a soldier2 and thoroughly wet and cold1 we were all glad when she proposed a halt to prepare our night's lodging on the banks of a stream4 ,the country through which we were passing was the same succession of forest and open lawns as formerly mentioned3 the trees were nearly all evergreens1 and of good1 though not very gigantic size4 ,the lawns were covered with grass1 which1 in thickness of crop1 looked like ordinary ,english hay4 ,we passed two small hamlets surrounded by gardens of maize and manioc1 and near each of these ,i observed1 for the first time1 an ugly idol common in ,londa--the figure of an animal1 resembling an alligator1 made of clay4 ,it is formed of grass1 plastered over with soft clay2 two cowrie-shells are inserted as eyes1 and numbers of the bristles from the tail of an elephant are stuck in about the neck4 ,it is called a lion1 though1 if one were not told so1 he would conclude it to be an alligator4 ,it stood in a shed1 and the ,balonda pray and beat drums before it all night in cases of sickness4 ,some of the men of ,manenko's train had shields made of reeds1 neatly woven into a square shape1 about five feet long and three broad4 ,with these1 and short broadswords and sheaves of iron-headed arrows1 they appeared rather ferocious4 ,but the constant habit of wearing arms is probably only a substitute for the courage they do not possess4 ,we always deposited our fire-arms and spears outside a village before entering it1 while the ,balonda1 on visiting us at our encampment1 always came fully armed1 until we ordered them either to lay down their weapons or be off4 ,next day we passed through a piece of forest so dense that no one could have penetrated it without an axe4 ,it was flooded1 not by the river1 but by the heavy rains which poured down every day1 and kept those who had clothing constantly wet4 ,i observed1 in this piece of forest1 a very strong smell of sulphureted hydrogen4 ,this ,i had observed repeatedly in other parts before4 ,i had attacks of fever of the intermittent type again and again1 in consequence of repeated drenchings in these unhealthy spots4 ,on the #aath and #abth we were detained by incessant rains1 and so heavy ,i never saw the like in the south4 ,i had a little tapioca and a small quantity of ,libonta meal1 which ,i still reserved for worse times4 ,the patience of my men under hunger was admirable2 the actual want of the present is never so painful as the thought of getting nothing in the future4 ,we thought the people of some large hamlets very niggardly and very independent of their chiefs1 for they gave us and ,manenko nothing1 though they had large fields of maize in an eatable state around them4 ,when she went and kindly begged some for me1 they gave her five ears only4 ,they were subjects of her uncle2 and1 had they been ,makololo1 would have been lavish in their gifts to the niece of their chief4 ,i suspected that they were dependents of some of ,shinte's principal men1 and had no power to part with the maize of their masters4 ,each house of these hamlets has a palisade of thick stakes around it1 and the door is made to resemble the rest of the stockade2 the door is never seen open2 when the owner wishes to enter1 he removes a stake or two1 squeezes his body in1 then plants them again in their places1 so that an enemy coming in the night would find it difficult to discover the entrance4 ,these palisades seem to indicate a sense of insecurity in regard to their fellow-men1 for there are no wild beasts to disturb them2 the bows and arrows have been nearly as efficacious in clearing the country here as guns have in the country farther south4 ,this was a disappointment to us1 for we expected a continuance of the abundance of game in the north which we found when we first came up to the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye4 ,a species of the silver-tree of the ,cape 7',leucodendron argenteum'7 is found in abundance in the parts through which we have traveled since leaving ,samoana's4 ,as it grows at a height of between two and three thousand feet above the level of the sea1 on the ,cape ,table ,mountain1 and again on the northern slope of the ,cashan ,mountains1 and here at considerably greater heights 7four thousand feet71 the difference of climate prevents the botanical range being considered as affording a good approximation to the altitude4 ,the rapid flow of the ,leeambye1 which once seemed to me evidence of much elevation of the country from which it comes1 ,i now found1 by the boiling point of water1 was fallacious499 99 ,on examining this subject when ,i returned to ,linyanti1 ,i found that1 according to ,dr4 ,arnott1 a declivity of three inches per mile gives a velocity in a smooth1 straight channel of three miles an hour4 ,the general velocity of the ,zambesi is three miles and three quarters per hour1 though in the rocky parts it is sometimes as much as four and a half4 ,if1 however1 we make allowances for roughness of bottom1 bendings of channel1 and sudden descents at cataracts1 and say the declivity is even seven inches per mile1 those #hjj miles between the east coast and the great falls would require less than #ejj feet to give the observed velocity1 and the additional distance to this point would require but #aej feet of altitude more4 ,if my observation of this altitude may be depended on1 we have a steeper declivity for the ,zambesi than for some other great rivers4 ,the ,ganges1 for instance1 is said to be at #ahjj miles from its mouth only #hjj feet above the level of the sea1 and water requires a month to come that distance4 ,but there are so many modifying circumstances1 it is difficult to draw any reliable conclusion from the currents4 ,the ,chobe is sometimes heard of as flooded1 about #dj miles above ,linyanti1 a fortnight before the inundation reaches that point1 but it is very tortuous4 ,the great river ,magdalena falls only #ejj feet in a thousand miles2 other rivers much more4 ,the forests became more dense as we went north4 ,we traveled much more in the deep gloom of the forest than in open sunlight4 ,no passage existed on either side of the narrow path made by the axe4 ,large climbing plants entwined themselves around the trunks and branches of gigantic trees like boa constrictors1 and they often do constrict the trees by which they rise1 and1 killing them1 stand erect themselves4 ,the bark of a fine tree found in abundance here1 and called motuia1 is used by the ,barotse for making fish-lines and nets1 and the molompi1 so well adapted for paddles by its lightness and flexibility1 was abundant4 ,there were other trees quite new to my companions2 many of them ran up to a height of fifty feet of one thickness1 and without branches4 ,in these forests we first encountered the artificial beehives so commonly met with all the way from this to ,angola4 ,they consist of about five feet of the bark of a tree fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter4 ,two incisions are made right round the tree at points five feet apart1 then one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other2 the workman next lifts up the bark on each side of this slit1 and detaches it from the trunk1 taking care not to break it1 until the whole comes from the tree4 ,the elasticity of the bark makes it assume the form it had before2 the slit is sewed or pegged up with wooden pins1 and ends made of coiled grass-rope are inserted1 one of which has a hole for the ingress of the bees in the centre1 and the hive is complete4 ,these hives are placed in a horizontal position on high trees in different parts of the forest1 and in this way all the wax exported from ,benguela and ,loanda is collected4 ,it is all the produce of free labor4 ,a piece of medicine is tied round the trunk of the tree1 and proves sufficient protection against thieves4 ,the natives seldom rob each other1 for all believe that certain medicines can inflict disease and death2 and though they consider that these are only known to a few1 they act on the principle that it is best to let them all alone4 ,the gloom of these forests strengthens the superstitious feelings of the people4 ,in other quarters1 where they are not subjected to this influence1 ,i have heard the chiefs issue proclamations to the effect that real witchcraft medicines had been placed at certain gardens from which produce had been stolen1 the thieves having risked the power of the ordinary charms previously placed there4 ,this being the rainy season1 great quantities of mushrooms were met with1 and were eagerly devoured by my companions3 the edible variety is always found growing out of ant-hills1 and attains the diameter of the crown of a hat2 they are quite white1 and very good1 even when eaten raw2 they occupy an extensive region of the interior2 some1 not edible1 are of a brilliant red1 and others are of the same light blue as the paper used by apothecaries to put up their medicines4 ,there was a considerable pleasure1 in spite of rain and fever1 in this new scenery4 ,the deep gloom contrasted strongly with the shadeless glare of the ,kalahari1 which had left an indelible impression on my memory4 ,though drenched day by day at this time1 and for months afterward1 it was long before ,i could believe that we were getting too much of a good thing4 ,nor could ,i look at water being thrown away without a slight1 quick impression flitting across the mind that we were guilty of wasting it4 ,every now and then we emerged from the deep gloom into a pretty little valley1 having a damp portion in the middle2 which1 though now filled with water1 at other times contains moisture enough for wells only4 ,these wells have shades put over them in the form of little huts4 ,we crossed1 in canoes1 a little never-failing stream1 which passes by the name of ,lefuje1 or the rapid4 ,it comes from a goodly high mountain1 called ,monakadzi 7the woman71 which gladdened our eyes as it rose to our sight about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our course4 ,it is of an oblong shape1 and seemed at least eight hundred feet above the plains4 ,the ,lefuje probably derives its name from the rapid descent of the short course it has to flow from ,monakadzi to the ,leeba4 ,the number of little villages seemed about equal to the number of valleys4 ,at some we stopped and rested1 the people becoming more liberal as we advanced4 ,others we found deserted1 a sudden panic having seized the inhabitants1 though the drum of ,manenko was kept beaten pretty constantly1 in order to give notice of the approach of great people4 ,when we had decided to remain for the night at any village1 the inhabitants lent us the roofs of their huts1 which in form resemble those of the ,makololo1 or a ,chinaman's hat1 and can be taken off the walls at pleasure4 ,they lifted them off1 and brought them to the spot we had selected as our lodging1 and1 when my men had propped them up with stakes1 they were then safely housed for the night4 ,every one who comes to salute either ,manenko or ourselves rubs the upper parts of the arms and chest with ashes2 those who wish to show profounder reverence put some also on the face4 ,we found that every village had its idols near it4 ,this is the case all through the country of the ,balonda1 so that1 when we came to an idol in the woods1 we always knew that we were within a quarter of an hour of human habitations4 ,one very ugly idol we passed rested on a horizontal beam placed on two upright posts4 ,this beam was furnished with two loops of cord1 as of a chain1 to suspend offerings before it4 ,on remarking to my companions that these idols had ears1 but that they heard not1 etc41 ,i learned that the ,balonda1 and even the ,barotse1 believe that divination may be performed by means of these blocks of wood and clay2 and though the wood itself could not hear1 the owners had medicines by which it could be made to hear and give responses1 so that if an enemy were approaching they would have full information4 ,manenko having brought us to a stand on account of slight indisposition and a desire to send forward notice of our approach to her uncle1 ,i asked why it was necessary to send forward information of our movements1 if ,shinte had idols who could tell him every thing4 ,she did it only199 was the reply4 ,it is seldom of much use to show one who worships idols the folly of idolatry without giving something else as an object of adoration instead4 ,they do not love them4 ,they fear them1 and betake themselves to their idols only when in perplexity and danger4 99 ,this is a curious ,african idiom1 by which a person implies he had no particular reason for his act4 ,while delayed1 by ,manenko's management1 among the ,balonda villages1 a little to the south of the town of ,shinte1 we were well supplied by the villagers with sweet potatoes and green maize2 ,sambanza went to his mother's village for supplies of other food4 ,i was laboring under fever1 and did not find it very difficult to exercise patience with her whims2 but it being ,saturday1 ,i thought we might as well go to the town for ,sunday 7#aeth74 ,no2 her messenger must return from her uncle first4 ,being sure that the answer of the uncle would be favorable1 ,i thought we might go on at once1 and not lose two days in the same spot4 ,no1 it is our custom2 and every thing else ,i could urge was answered in the genuine pertinacious lady style4 ,she ground some meal for me with her own hands1 and when she brought it told me she had actually gone to a village and begged corn for the purpose4 ,she said this with an air as if the inference must be drawn by even a stupid white man3 ,i know how to manage1 don't ,i8 ,it was refreshing to get food which could be eaten without producing the unpleasantness described by the ,rev4 ,john ,newton1 of ,st4 ,mary's1 ,woolnoth1 ,london1 when obliged to eat the same roots while a slave in the ,west ,indies4 ,the day 7,january #adth71 for a wonder1 was fair1 and the sun shone1 so as to allow us to dry our clothing and other goods1 many of which were mouldy and rotten from the long-continued damp4 ,the guns rusted1 in spite of being oiled every evening4 ,during the night we were all awakened by a terrific shriek from one of ,manenko's ladies4 ,she piped out so loud and long that we all imagined she had been seized by a lion1 and my men snatched up their arms1 which they always place so as to be ready at a moment's notice1 and ran to the rescue2 but we found the alarm had been caused by one of the oxen thrusting his head into her hut and smelling her3 she had put her hand on his cold1 wet nose1 and thought it was all over with her4 ,on ,sunday afternoon messengers arrived from ,shinte1 expressing his approbation of the objects we had in view in our journey through the country1 and that he was glad of the prospect of a way being opened by which white men might visit him1 and allow him to purchase ornaments at pleasure4 ,manenko now threatened in sport to go on1 and ,i soon afterward perceived that what now seemed to me the dilly-dallying way of this lady was the proper mode of making acquaintance with the ,balonda2 and much of the favor with which ,i was received in different places was owing to my sending forward messengers to state the object of our coming before entering each town and village4 ,when we came in sight of a village we sat down under the shade of a tree and sent forward a man to give notice who we were and what were our objects4 ,the head man of the village then sent out his principal men1 as ,shinte now did1 to bid us welcome and show us a tree under which we might sleep4 ,before ,i had profited by the rather tedious teaching of ,manenko1 ,i sometimes entered a village and created unintentional alarm4 ,the villagers would continue to look upon us with suspicion as long as we remained4 ,shinte sent us two large baskets of manioc and six dried fishes4 ,his men had the skin of a monkey1 called in their tongue poluma 7',colobus guereza'71 of a jet black color1 except the long mane1 which is pure white3 it is said to be found in the north1 in the country of ,matiamvo1 the paramount chief of all the ,balonda4 ,we learned from them that they are in the habit of praying to their idols when unsuccessful in killing game or in any other enterprise4 ,they behaved with reverence at our religious services4 ,this will appear important if the reader remembers the almost total want of prayer and reverence we encountered in the south4 ,our friends informed us that ,shinte would be highly honored by the presence of three white men in his town at once4 ,two others had sent forward notice of their approach from another quarter 7the west72 could it be ,barth or ,krapf8 ,how pleasant to meet with ,europeans in such an out-of-the-way region6 ,the rush of thoughts made me almost forget my fever4 ,are they of the same color as ,i am8 ,yes2 exactly so4 ,and have the same hair8 ,is that hair8 we thought it was a wig2 we never saw the like before2 this white man must be of the sort that lives in the sea4 ,henceforth my men took the hint1 and always sounded my praises as a true specimen of the variety of white men who live in the sea4 ,only look at his hair2 it is made quite straight by the sea-water6 ,i explained to them again and again that1 when it was said we came out of the sea1 it did not mean that we came from beneath the water2 but the fiction has been widely spread in the interior by the ,mambari that the real white men live in the sea1 and the myth was too good not to be taken advantage of by my companions2 so1 notwithstanding my injunctions1 ,i believe that1 when ,i was out of hearing1 my men always represented themselves as led by a genuine merman3 ,just see his hair6 ,if ,i returned from walking to a little distance1 they would remark of some to whom they had been holding forth1 ,these people want to see your hair4 ,as the strangers had woolly hair like themselves1 ,i had to give up the idea of meeting any thing more ,european than two half-caste ,portuguese1 engaged in trading for slaves1 ivory1 and bees'-wax4 #af,,th4 ,after a short march we came to a most lovely valley about a mile and a half wide1 and stretching away eastward up to a low prolongation of ,monakadzi4 ,a small stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant green glen2 and on a little rill1 which flows into it from the western side1 stands the town of ,kabompo1 or1 as he likes best to be called1 ,shinte4 7,lat4 #ab;d #cg' #ce ,s41 long4 #bb;d #dg' ,e47 ,when ,manenko thought the sun was high enough for us to make a lucky entrance1 we found the town embowered in banana and other tropical trees having great expansion of leaf2 the streets are straight1 and present a complete contrast to those of the ,bechuanas1 which are all very tortuous4 ,here1 too1 we first saw native huts with square walls and round roofs4 ,the fences or walls of the courts which surround the huts are wonderfully straight1 and made of upright poles a few inches apart1 with strong grass or leafy bushes neatly woven between4 ,in the courts were small plantations of tobacco1 and a little solanaceous plant which the ,balonda use as a relish2 also sugar-cane and bananas4 ,many of the poles have grown again1 and trees of the ',ficus ,indica' family have been planted around1 in order to give to the inhabitants a grateful shade3 they regard this tree with some sort of veneration as a medicine or charm4 ,goats were browsing about1 and1 when we made our appearance1 a crowd of negroes1 all fully armed1 ran toward us as if they would eat us up2 some had guns1 but the manner in which they were held showed that the owners were more accustomed to bows and arrows than to white men's weapons4 ,after surrounding and staring at us for an hour1 they began to disperse4 ,the two native ,portuguese traders of whom we had heard had erected a little encampment opposite the place where ours was about to be made4 ,one of them1 whose spine had been injured in youth--a rare sight in this country--came and visited us4 ,i returned the visit next morning4 ,his tall companion had that sickly yellow hue which made him look fairer than myself1 but his head was covered with a crop of unmistakable wool4 ,they had a gang of young female slaves in a chain1 hoeing the ground in front of their encampment to clear it of weeds and grass2 these were purchased recently in ,lobale1 whence the traders had now come4 ,there were many ,mambari with them1 and the establishment was conducted with that military order which pervades all the arrangements of the ,portuguese colonists4 ,a drum was beaten and trumpet sounded at certain hours1 quite in military fashion4 ,it was the first time most of my men had seen slaves in chains4 ,they are not men1 they exclaimed 7meaning they are beasts71 who treat their children so4 ,the ,balonda are real negroes1 having much more wool on their heads and bodies than any of the ,bechuana or ,caffre tribes4 ,they are generally very dark in color1 but several are to be seen of a lighter hue2 many of the slaves who have been exported to ,brazil have gone from this region2 but while they have a general similarity to the typical negro1 ,i never could1 from my own observation1 think that our ideal negro1 as seen in tobacconists' shops1 is the true type4 ,a large proportion of the ,balonda1 indeed1 have heads somewhat elongated backward and upward1 thick lips1 flat noses1 elongated 'ossa calces'1 etc41 etc42 but there are also many good-looking1 well-shaped heads and persons among them4 #ag,,th1 ,,tuesday4 ,we were honored with a grand reception by ,shinte about eleven o'clock4 ,sambanza claimed the honor of presenting us1 ,manenko being slightly indisposed4 ,the native ,portuguese and ,mambari went fully armed with guns1 in order to give ,shinte a salute2 their drummer and trumpeter making all the noise that very old instruments would produce4 ,the kotla1 or place of audience1 was about a hundred yards square1 and two graceful specimens of a species of banian stood near one end2 under one of these sat ,shinte1 on a sort of throne covered with a leopard's skin4 ,he had on a checked jacket1 and a kilt of scarlet baize edged with green2 many strings of large beads hung from his neck1 and his limbs were covered with iron and copper armlets and bracelets2 on his head he wore a helmet made of beads woven neatly together1 and crowned with a great bunch of goose-feathers4 ,close to him sat three lads with large sheaves of arrows over their shoulders4 ,when we entered the kotla1 the whole of ,manenko's party saluted ,shinte by clapping their hands1 and ,sambanza did obeisance by rubbing his chest and arms with ashes4 ,one of the trees being unoccupied1 ,i retreated to it for the sake of the shade1 and my whole party did the same4 ,we were now about forty yards from the chief1 and could see the whole ceremony4 ,the different sections of the tribe came forward in the same way that we did1 the head man of each making obeisance with ashes which he carried with him for the purpose2 then came the soldiers1 all armed to the teeth1 running and shouting toward us1 with their swords drawn1 and their faces screwed up so as to appear as savage as possible1 for the purpose1 ,i thought1 of trying whether they could not make us take to our heels4 ,as we did not1 they turned round toward ,shinte and saluted him1 then retired4 ,when all had come and were seated1 then began the curious capering usually seen in pichos4 ,a man starts up1 and imitates the most approved attitudes observed in actual fight1 as throwing one javelin1 receiving another on the shield1 springing to one side to avoid a third1 running backward or forward1 leaping1 etc4 ,this over1 ,sambanza and the spokesman of ,nyamoana stalked backward and forward in front of ,shinte1 and gave forth1 in a loud voice1 all they had been able to learn1 either from myself or people1 of my past history and connection with the ,makololo2 the return of the captives2 the wish to open the country to trade2 the ,bible as a word from heaven2 the white man's desire for the tribes to live in peace3 he ought to have taught the ,makololo that first1 for the ,balonda never attacked them1 yet they had assailed the ,balonda3 perhaps he is fibbing1 perhaps not2 they rather thought he was2 but as the ,balonda had good hearts1 and ,shinte had never done harm to any one1 he had better receive the white man well1 and send him on his way4 ,sambanza was gayly attired1 and1 besides a profusion of beads1 had a cloth so long that a boy carried it after him as a train4 ,behind ,shinte sat about a hundred women1 clothed in their best1 which happened to be a profusion of red baize4 ,the chief wife of ,shinte1 one of the ,matebele or ,zulus1 sat in front with a curious red cap on her head4 ,during the intervals between the speeches1 these ladies burst forth into a sort of plaintive ditty2 but it was impossible for any of us to catch whether it was in praise of the speaker1 of ,shinte1 or of themselves4 ,this was the first time ,i had ever seen females present in a public assembly4 ,in the south the women are not permitted to enter the kotla2 and even when invited to come to a religious service there1 would not enter until ordered to do so by the chief2 but here they expressed approbation by clapping their hands1 and laughing to different speakers2 and ,shinte frequently turned round and spoke to them4 ,a party of musicians1 consisting of three drummers and four performers on the piano1 went round the kotla several times1 regaling us with their music4 ,their drums are neatly carved from the trunk of a tree1 and have a small hole in the side covered with a bit of spider's web3 the ends are covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on2 and when they wish to tighten it1 they hold it to the fire to make it contract3 the instruments are beaten with the hands4 ,the piano1 named marimba1 consists of two bars of wood placed side by side1 here quite straight1 but1 farther north1 bent round so as to resemble half the tire of a carriage-wheel2 across these are placed about fifteen wooden keys1 each of which is two or three inches broad1 and fifteen or eighteen inches long2 their thickness is regulated according to the deepness of the note required3 each of the keys has a calabash beneath it2 from the upper part of each a portion is cut off to enable them to embrace the bars1 and form hollow sounding-boards to the keys1 which also are of different sizes1 according to the note required2 and little drumsticks elicit the music4 ,rapidity of execution seems much admired among them1 and the music is pleasant to the ear4 ,in ,angola the ,portuguese use the marimba in their dances4 ,when nine speakers had concluded their orations1 ,shinte stood up1 and so did all the people4 ,he had maintained true ,african dignity of manner all the while1 but my people remarked that he scarcely ever took his eyes off me for a moment4 ,about a thousand people were present1 according to my calculation1 and three hundred soldiers4 ,the sun had now become hot2 and the scene ended by the ,mambari discharging their guns4 #ah,,th4 ,we were awakened during the night by a message from ,shinte1 requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hour4 ,as ,i was just in the sweating stage of an intermittent1 and the path to the town lay through a wet valley1 ,i declined going4 ,kolimbota1 who knows their customs best1 urged me to go2 but1 independent of sickness1 ,i hated words of the night and deeds of darkness4 ,i was neither a hyaena nor a witch4 ,kolimbota thought that we ought to conform to their wishes in every thing3 ,i thought we ought to have some choice in the matter as well1 which put him into high dudgeon4 ,however1 at ten next morning we went1 and were led into the courts of ,shinte1 the walls of which were woven rods1 all very neat and high4 ,many trees stood within the inclosure and afforded a grateful shade4 ,these had been planted1 for we saw some recently put in1 with grass wound round the trunk to protect them from the sun4 ,the otherwise waste corners of the streets were planted with sugar-cane and bananas1 which spread their large light leaves over the walls4 ,the ,ficus ,indica tree1 under which we now sat1 had very large leaves1 but showed its relationship to the ,indian banian by sending down shoots toward the ground4 ,shinte soon came1 and appeared a man of upward of fifty-five years of age1 of frank and open countenance1 and about the middle height4 ,he seemed in good humor1 and said he had expected yesterday that a man who came from the gods would have approached and talked to him4 ,that had been my own intention in going to the reception2 but when we came and saw the formidable preparations1 and all his own men keeping at least forty yards off from him1 ,i yielded to the solicitations of my men1 and remained by the tree opposite to that under which he sat4 ,his remark confirmed my previous belief that a frank1 open1 fearless manner is the most winning with all these ,africans4 ,i stated the object of my journey and mission1 and to all ,i advanced the old gentleman clapped his hands in approbation4 ,he replied through a spokesman2 then all the company joined in the response by clapping of hands too4 ,after the more serious business was over1 ,i asked if he had ever seen a white man before4 ,he replied1 ,never2 you are the very first ,i have seen with a white skin and straight hair2 your clothing1 too1 is different from any we have ever seen4 ,they had been visited by native ,portuguese and ,mambari only4 ,on learning from some of the people that ,shinte's mouth was bitter for want of tasting ox-flesh1 ,i presented him with an ox1 to his great delight2 and1 as his country is so well adapted for cattle1 ,i advised him to begin a trade in cows with the ,makololo4 ,he was pleased with the idea1 and when we returned from ,loanda1 we found that he had profited by the hint1 for he had got three1 and one of them justified my opinion of the country1 for it was more like a prize heifer for fatness than any we had seen in ,africa4 ,he soon afterward sent us a basket of green maize boiled1 another of manioc-meal1 and a small fowl4 ,the maize shows by its size the fertility of the black soil of all the valleys here1 and so does the manioc1 though no manure is ever applied4 ,we saw manioc attain a height of six feet and upward1 and this is a plant which requires the very best soil4 ,during this time ,manenko had been extremely busy with all her people in getting up a very pretty hut and court-yard1 to be1 as she said1 her residence always when white men were brought by her along the same path4 ,when she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle1 she came forward to us with the air of one wronged1 and explained that this white man belonged to her2 she had brought him here1 and therefore the ox was hers1 not ,shinte's4 ,she ordered her men to bring it1 got it slaughtered by them1 and presented her uncle with a leg only4 ,shinte did not seem at all annoyed at the occurrence4 #ai,,th4 ,i was awakened at an early hour by a messenger from ,shinte2 but the thirst of a raging fever being just assuaged by the bursting forth of a copious perspiration1 ,i declined going for a few hours4 ,violent action of the heart all the way to the town did not predispose me to be patient with the delay which then occurred1 probably on account of the divination being unfavorable3 ,they could not find ,shinte4 ,when ,i returned to bed1 another message was received1 ,shinte wished to say all he had to tell me at once4 ,this was too tempting an offer1 so we went1 and he had a fowl ready in his hand to present1 also a basket of manioc-meal1 and a calabash of mead4 ,referring to the constantly-recurring attacks of fever1 he remarked that it was the only thing which would prevent a successful issue to my journey1 for he had men to guide me who knew all the paths which led to the white men4 ,he had himself traveled far when a young man4 ,on asking what he would recommend for the fever1 ,drink plenty of the mead1 and as it gets in1 it will drive the fever out4 ,it was rather strong1 and ,i suspect he liked the remedy pretty well1 even though he had no fever4 ,he had always been a friend to ,sebituane1 and1 now that his son ,sekeletu was in his place1 ,shinte was not merely a friend1 but a father to him2 and if a son asks a favor1 the father must give it4 ,he was highly pleased with the large calabashes of clarified butter and fat which ,sekeletu had sent him1 and wished to detain ,kolimbota1 that he might send a present back to ,sekeletu by his hands4 ,this proposition we afterward discovered was ,kolimbota's own1 as he had heard so much about the ferocity of the tribes through which we were to pass that he wished to save his skin4 ,it will be seen farther on that he was the only one of our party who returned with a wound4 ,we were particularly struck1 in passing through the village1 with the punctiliousness of manners shown by the ,balonda4 ,the inferiors1 on meeting their superiors in the street1 at once drop on their knees and rub dust on their arms and chest2 they continue the salutation of clapping the hands until the great ones have passed4 ,sambanza knelt down in this manner till the son of ,shinte had passed him4 ,we several times saw the woman who occupies the office of drawer of water for ,shinte2 she rings a bell as she passes along to give warning to all to keep out of her way2 it would be a grave offense for any one to come near her1 and exercise an evil influence by his presence on the drink of the chief4 ,i suspect that offenses of the slightest character among the poor are made the pretext for selling them or their children to the ,mambari4 ,a young man of ,lobale had fled into the country of ,shinte1 and located himself without showing himself to the chief4 ,this was considered an offense sufficient to warrant his being seized and offered for sale while we were there4 ,he had not reported himself1 so they did not know the reason of his running away from his own chief1 and that chief might accuse them of receiving a criminal4 ,it was curious to notice the effect of the slave-trade in blunting the moral susceptibility3 no chief in the south would treat a fugitive in this way4 ,my men were horrified at the act1 even though old ,shinte and his council had some show of reason on their side2 and both the ,barotse and the ,makololo declared that1 if the ,balonda only knew of the policy pursued by them to fugitives1 but few of the discontented would remain long with ,shinte4 ,my men excited the wonder of his people by stating that every one of them had one cow at least in his possession4 ,another incident1 which occurred while we were here1 may be mentioned1 as of a character totally unknown in the south4 ,two children1 of seven and eight years old1 went out to collect firewood a short distance from their parents' home1 which was a quarter of a mile from the village1 and were kidnapped2 the distracted parents could not find a trace of them4 ,this happened so close to the town1 where there are no beasts of prey1 that we suspect some of the high men of ,shinte's court were the guilty parties3 they can sell them by night4 ,the ,mambari erect large huts of a square shape to stow these stolen ones in2 they are well fed1 but aired by night only4 ,the frequent kidnapping from outlying hamlets explains the stockades we saw around them2 the parents have no redress1 for even ,shinte himself seems fond of working in the dark4 ,one night he sent for me1 though ,i always stated ,i liked all my dealings to be aboveboard4 ,when ,i came he presented me with a slave girl about ten years old2 he said he had always been in the habit of presenting his visitors with a child4 ,on my thanking him1 and saying that ,i thought it wrong to take away children from their parents1 that ,i wished him to give up this system altogether1 and trade in cattle1 ivory1 and bees'-wax1 he urged that she was to be a child to bring me water1 and that a great man ought to have a child for the purpose1 yet ,i had none4 ,as ,i replied that ,i had four children1 and should be very sorry if my chief were to take my little girl and give her away1 and that ,i would prefer this child to remain and carry water for her own mother1 he thought ,i was dissatisfied with her size1 and sent for one a head taller2 after many explanations of our abhorrence of slavery1 and how displeasing it must be to ,god to see his children selling one another1 and giving each other so much grief as this child's mother must feel1 ,i declined her also4 ,if ,i could have taken her into my family for the purpose of instruction1 and then returned her as a free woman1 according to a promise ,i should have made to the parents1 ,i might have done so2 but to take her away1 and probably never be able to secure her return1 would have produced no good effect on the minds of the ,balonda2 they would not then have seen evidence of our hatred to slavery1 and the kind attentions of my friends would1 as it almost always does in similar cases1 have turned the poor thing's head4 ,the difference in position between them and us is as great as between the lowest and highest in ,england1 and we know the effects of sudden elevation on wiser heads than hers1 whose owners had not been born to it4 ,shinte was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic lantern2 but fever had so weakening an effect1 and ,i had such violent action of the heart1 with buzzing in the ears1 that ,i could not go for several days2 when ,i did go for the purpose1 he had his principal men and the same crowd of court beauties near him as at the reception4 ,the first picture exhibited was ,abraham about to slaughter his son ,isaac2 it was shown as large as life1 and the uplifted knife was in the act of striking the lad2 the ,balonda men remarked that the picture was much more like a god than the things of wood or clay they worshiped4 ,i explained that this man was the first of a race to whom ,god had given the ,bible we now held1 and that among his children our ,savior appeared4 ,the ladies listened with silent awe2 but1 when ,i moved the slide1 the uplifted dagger moving toward them1 they thought it was to be sheathed in their bodies instead of ,isaac's4 ,mother6 mother6 all shouted at once1 and off they rushed helter-skelter1 tumbling pell-mell over each other1 and over the little idol-huts and tobacco-bushes3 we could not get one of them back again4 ,shinte1 however1 sat bravely through the whole1 and afterward examined the instrument with interest4 ,an explanation was always added after each time of showing its powers1 so that no one should imagine there was aught supernatural in it2 and had ,mr4 ,murray1 who kindly brought it from ,england1 seen its popularity among both ,makololo and ,balonda1 he would have been gratified with the direction his generosity then took4 ,it was the only mode of instruction ,i was ever pressed to repeat4 ,the people came long distances for the express purpose of seeing the objects and hearing the explanations4 ,one can not get away quickly from these chiefs2 they like to have the honor of strangers residing in their villages4 ,here we had an additional cause of delay in frequent rains2 twenty-four hours never elapsed without heavy showers2 every thing is affected by the dampness2 surgical instruments become all rusty1 clothing mildewed1 and shoes mouldy2 my little tent was now so rotten and so full of small holes that every smart shower caused a fine mist to descend on my blanket1 and made me fain to cover the head with it4 ,heavy dews lay on every thing in the morning1 even inside the tent2 there is only a short time of sunshine in the afternoon1 and even that is so interrupted by thunder-showers that we can not dry our bedding4 ,the winds coming from the north always bring heavy clouds and rain2 in the south1 the only heavy rains noticed are those which come from the northeast or east4 ,the thermometer falls as low as #gb ,degrees when there is no sunshine1 though1 when the weather is fair1 the protected thermometer generally rises as high as #hb ,degrees1 even in the mornings and evenings4 #bd,,th4 ,we expected to have started to-day1 but ,sambanza1 who had been sent off early in the morning for guides1 returned at midday without them1 and drunk4 ,this was the first case of real babbling intoxication we had seen in this region4 ,the boyaloa1 or beer of the country1 has more of a stupefying than exciting nature2 hence the beer-bibbers are great sleepers2 they may frequently be seen lying on their faces sound asleep4 ,this peculiarity of posture was ascribed1 by no less an authority than ,aristotle1 to wine1 while those who were sent asleep by beer were believed to lie upon their backs4 ,sambanza had got into a state of inebriation from indulging in mead1 similar to that which ,shinte presented to us1 which is much more powerful than boyaloa4 ,as far as we could collect from his incoherent sentences1 ,shinte had said the rain was too heavy for our departure1 and the guides still required time for preparation4 ,shinte himself was busy getting some meal ready for my use in the journey4 ,as it rained nearly all day1 it was no sacrifice to submit to his advice and remain4 ,sambanza staggered to ,manenko's hut2 she1 however1 who had never promised to love1 honor1 and obey him1 had not been nursing her wrath to keep it warm1 so she coolly bundled him into the hut1 and put him to bed4 ,as the last proof of friendship1 ,shinte came into my tent1 though it could scarcely contain more than one person1 looked at all the curiosities1 the quicksilver1 the looking-glass1 books1 hair-brushes1 comb1 watch1 etc41 etc41 with the greatest interest2 then closing the tent1 so that none of his own people might see the extravagance of which he was about to be guilty1 he drew out from his clothing a string of beads1 and the end of a conical shell1 which is considered1 in regions far from the sea1 of as great value as the ,lord ,mayor's badge is in ,london4 ,he hung it round my neck1 and said1 ,there1 now you ,,have a proof of my friendship4 ,my men informed me that these shells are so highly valued in this quarter1 as evidences of distinction1 that for two of them a slave might be bought1 and five would be considered a handsome price for an elephant's tusk worth ten pounds4 ,at our last interview old ,shinte pointed out our principal guide1 ,intemese1 a man about fifty1 who was1 he said1 ordered to remain by us till we should reach the sea2 that ,i had now left ,sekeletu far behind1 and must henceforth look to ,shinte alone for aid1 and that it would always be most cheerfully rendered4 ,this was only a polite way of expressing his wishes for my success4 ,it was the good words only of the guides which were to aid me from the next chief1 ,katema1 on to the sea2 they were to turn back on reaching him2 but he gave a good supply of food for the journey before us1 and1 after mentioning as a reason for letting us go even now that no one could say we had been driven away from the town1 since we had been several days with him1 he gave a most hearty salutation1 and we parted with the wish that ,god might bless him4 ,chapter #ag4 ,leave ,shinte--,manioc ,gardens--,mode of preparing the poisonous kind--,its general ,use--,presents of ,food--,punctiliousness of the ,balonda-- ,their ,idols and ,superstition--,dress of the ,balonda--,villages beyond ,lonaje--,cazembe--,our ,guides and the ,makololo--,night ,rains--,inquiries for ,english cotton ,goods--,intemese's ,fiction--,visit from an old ,man--,theft--,industry of our ,guide--,loss of ,pontoon--,plains covered with ,water--,affection of the ,balonda for their ,mothers--,a ,night on an ,island--,the ,grass on the ,plains--,source of the ,rivers--,loan of the ,roofs of ,huts--,a ,halt--,fertility of the ,country through which the ,lokalueje flows--,omnivorous ,fish--,natives' ,mode of catching them-- ,the ,village of a ,half-brother of ,katema1 his ,speech and ,present--,our ,guide's ,perversity--,mozenkwa's pleasant ,home and ,family--,clear ,water of the flooded ,rivers--,a ,messenger from ,katema--,quendende's ,village3 his ,kindness--,crop of ,wool--,meet ,people from the ,town of ,matiamvo--,fireside ,talk--,matiamvo's ,character and ,conduct--,presentation at ,katema's ,court3 his ,present1 good ,sense1 and ,appearance--,interview on the following ,day--,cattle--,a ,feast and a ,makololo ,dance--,arrest of a ,fugitive-- ,dignified old ,courtier--,katema's lax ,government--,cold ,wind from the ,north--,canaries and other singing ,birds--,spiders1 their ,nests and ,webs--,lake ,dilolo--,tradition--,sagacity of ,ants4 #bf,,th4 ,leaving ,shinte1 with eight of his men to aid in carrying our luggage1 we passed1 in a northerly direction1 down the lovely valley on which the town stands1 then went a little to the west through pretty open forest1 and slept at a village of ,balonda4 ,in the morning we had a fine range of green hills1 called ,saloisho1 on our right1 and were informed that they were rather thickly inhabited by the people of ,shinte1 who worked in iron1 the ore of which abounds in these hills4 ,the country through which we passed possessed the same general character of flatness and forest that we noticed before4 ,the soil is dark1 with a tinge of red--in some places it might be called red--and appeared very fertile4 ,every valley contained villages of twenty or thirty huts1 with gardens of manioc1 which here is looked upon as the staff of life4 ,very little labor is required for its cultivation4 ,the earth is drawn up into oblong beds1 about three feet broad and one in height1 and in these are planted pieces of the manioc stalk1 at four feet apart4 ,a crop of beans or ground-nuts is sown between them1 and when these are reaped the land around the manioc is cleared of weeds4 ,in from ten to eighteen months after planting1 according to the quality of the soil1 the roots are fit for food4 ,there is no necessity for reaping soon1 as the roots do not become bitter and dry until after three years4 ,when a woman takes up the roots1 she thrusts a piece or two of the upper stalks into the hole she has made1 draws back the soil1 and a new crop is thereby begun4 ,the plant grows to a height of six feet1 and every part of it is useful3 the leaves may be cooked as a vegetable4 ,the roots are from three to four inches in diameter1 and from twelve to eighteen inches long4 ,there are two varieties of the manioc or cassava--one sweet and wholesome1 the other bitter and containing poison1 but much more speedy in its growth than the former4 ,this last property causes its perpetuation4 ,when we reached the village of ,kapende1 on the banks of the rivulet ,lonaje1 we were presented with so much of the poisonous kind that we were obliged to leave it4 ,to get rid of the poison1 the people place it four days in a pool of water4 ,it then becomes partially decomposed1 and is taken out1 stripped of its skin1 and exposed to the sun4 ,when dried1 it is easily pounded into a fine white meal1 closely resembling starch1 which has either a little of the peculiar taste arising from decomposition1 or no more flavor than starch4 ,when intended to be used as food1 this meal is stirred into boiling water3 they put in as much as can be moistened1 one man holding the vessel and the other stirring the porridge with all his might4 ,this is the common mess of the country4 ,though hungry1 we could just manage to swallow it with the aid of a little honey1 which ,i shared with my men as long as it lasted4 ,it is very unsavory 7,scottice3 wersh72 and no matter how much one may eat1 two hours afterward he is as hungry as ever4 ,when less meal is employed1 the mess is exactly like a basin of starch in the hands of a laundress2 and if the starch were made from diseased potatoes1 some idea might be formed of the ,balonda porridge1 which hunger alone forced us to eat4 ,santuru forbade his nobles to eat it1 as it caused coughing and expectoration4 ,our chief guide1 ,intemese1 sent orders to all the villages around our route that ,shinte's friends must have abundance of provisions4 ,our progress was impeded by the time requisite for communicating the chief's desire and consequent preparation of meal4 ,we received far more food from ,shinte's people than from himself4 ,kapende1 for instance1 presented two large baskets of meal1 three of manioc roots steeped and dried in the sun and ready to be converted into flour1 three fowls1 and seven eggs1 with three smoke-dried fishes2 and others gave with similar liberality4 ,i gave to the head men small bunches of my stock of beads1 with an apology that we were now on our way to the market for these goods4 ,the present was always politely received4 ,we had an opportunity of observing that our guides had much more etiquette than any of the tribes farther south4 ,they gave us food1 but would not partake of it when we had cooked it1 nor would they eat their own food in our presence4 ,when it was cooked they retired into a thicket and ate their porridge2 then all stood up1 and clapped their hands1 and praised ,intemese for it4 ,the ,makololo1 who are accustomed to the most free and easy manners1 held out handfuls of what they had cooked to any of the ,balonda near1 but they refused to taste4 ,they are very punctilious in their manners to each other4 ,each hut has its own fire1 and when it goes out they make it afresh for themselves rather than take it from a neighbor4 ,i believe much of this arises from superstitious fears4 ,in the deep1 dark forests near each village1 as already mentioned1 you see idols intended to represent the human head or a lion1 or a crooked stick smeared with medicine1 or simply a small pot of medicine in a little shed1 or miniature huts with little mounds of earth in them4 ,but in the darker recesses we meet with human faces cut in the bark of trees1 the outlines of which1 with the beards1 closely resemble those seen on ,egyptian monuments4 ,frequent cuts are made on the trees along all the paths1 and offerings of small pieces of manioc roots or ears of maize are placed on branches4 ,there are also to be seen every few miles heaps of sticks1 which are treated in cairn fashion1 by every one throwing a small branch to the heap in passing2 or a few sticks are placed on the path1 and each passer-by turns from his course1 and forms a sudden bend in the road to one side4 ,it seems as if their minds were ever in doubt and dread in these gloomy recesses of the forest1 and that they were striving to propitiate1 by their offerings1 some superior beings residing there4 ,the dress of the ,balonda men consists of the softened skins of small animals1 as the jackal or wild cat1 hung before and behind from a girdle round the loins4 ,the dress of the women is of a nondescript character2 but they were not immodest4 ,they stood before us as perfectly unconscious of any indecorum as we could be with our clothes on4 ,but1 while ignorant of their own deficiency1 they could not maintain their gravity at the sight of the nudity of my men behind4 ,much to the annoyance of my companions1 the young girls laughed outright whenever their backs were turned to them4 ,after crossing the ,lonaje1 we came to some pretty villages1 embowered1 as the negro villages usually are1 in bananas1 shrubs1 and manioc1 and near the banks of the ,leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of serpents1 one of which bit one of our men1 but the wound was harmless4 ,the people of the surrounding villages presented us with large quantities of food1 in obedience to the mandate of ,shinte1 without expecting any equivalent4 ,one village had lately been transferred hither from the country of ,matiamvo4 ,they1 of course1 continue to acknowledge him as paramount chief2 but the frequent instances which occur of people changing from one part of the country to another1 show that the great chiefs possess only a limited power4 ,the only peculiarity we observed in these people is the habit of plaiting the beard into a three-fold cord4 ,the town of the ,balonda chief ,cazembe was pointed out to us as lying to the ,n4,e4 and by ,e4 from the town of ,shinte1 and great numbers of people in this quarter have gone thither for the purpose of purchasing copper anklets1 made at ,cazembe's1 and report the distance to be about five days' journey4 ,i made inquiries of some of the oldest inhabitants of the villages at which we were staying respecting the visit of ,pereira and ,lacerda to that town4 ,an old gray-headed man replied that they had often heard of white men before1 but never had seen one1 and added that one had come to ,cazembe when our informant was young1 and returned again without entering this part of the country4 ,the people of ,cazembe are ,balonda or ,baloi1 and his country has been termed ,londa1 ,lunda1 or ,lui1 by the ,portuguese4 ,it was always difficult to get our guides to move away from a place4 ,with the authority of the chief1 they felt as comfortable as king's messengers could1 and were not disposed to forego the pleasure of living at free quarters4 ,my ,makololo friends were but ill drilled as yet2 and since they had never left their own country before1 except for purposes of plunder1 they did not take readily to the peaceful system we now meant to follow4 ,they either spoke too imperiously to strangers1 or1 when reproved for that1 were disposed to follow the dictation of every one we met4 ,when ,intemese1 our guide1 refused to stir toward the ,leeba on the #cast of ,january1 they would make no effort to induce him to go2 but1 having ordered them to get ready1 ,intemese saw the preparations1 and soon followed the example4 ,it took us about four hours to cross the ,leeba1 which is considerably smaller here than where we left it--indeed1 only about a hundred yards wide4 ,it has the same dark mossy hue4 ,the villagers lent us canoes to effect our passage2 and1 having gone to a village about two miles beyond the river1 ,i had the satisfaction of getting observations for both longitude and latitude--for the former1 the distance between ,saturn and the ,moon1 and for the latter a meridian altitude of ,canopus4 ,long4 #bb;d #eg' ,e41 lat4 #ab;d #f' #f ,s4 ,these were the only opportunities ,i had of ascertaining my whereabouts in this part of ,londa4 ,again and again did ,i take out the instruments1 and1 just as all was right1 the stars would be suddenly obscured by clouds4 ,i had never observed so great an amount of cloudiness in any part of the south country2 and as for the rains1 ,i believe that years at ,kolobeng would not have made my little tent so rotten and thin as one month had done in ,londa4 ,i never observed in the south the heavy night and early morning rains we had in this country4 ,they often continued all night1 then became heavier about an hour before dawn4 ,or if fair during the night1 as day drew nigh1 an extremely heavy1 still1 pouring rain set in without warning4 ,five out of every six days we had this pouring rain1 at or near break of day1 for months together2 and it soon beat my tent so thin1 that a mist fell through on my face and made every thing damp4 ,the rains were occasionally1 but not always1 accompanied with very loud thunder4 ,,february #a,,st4 ,this day we had a fine view of two hills called ,piri 7,peeri71 meaning two1 on the side of the river we had left4 ,the country there is named ,mokwankwa4 ,and there ,intemese informed us one of ,shinte's children was born1 when he was in his progress southward from the country of ,matiamvo4 ,this part of the country would thus seem not to have been inhabited by the people of ,shinte at any very remote period4 ,he told me himself that he had come into his present country by command of ,matiamvo4 ,here we were surprised to hear ,english cotton cloth much more eagerly inquired after than beads and ornaments4 ,they are more in need of clothing than the ,bechuana tribes living adjacent to the ,kalahari ,desert1 who have plenty of skins for the purpose4 ,animals of all kinds are rare here1 and a very small piece of calico is of great value4 ,in the midst of the heavy rain1 which continued all the morning1 ,intemese sent to say he was laid up with pains in the stomach1 and must not be disturbed2 but when it cleared up1 about eleven1 ,i saw our friend walking off to the village1 and talking with a very loud voice4 ,on reproaching him for telling an untruth1 he turned it off with a laugh by saying he really had a complaint in his stomach1 which ,i might cure by slaughtering one of the oxen and allowing him to eat beef4 ,he was evidently reveling in the abundance of good food the chief's orders brought us2 and he did not feel the shame ,i did when ,i gave a few beads only in return for large baskets of meal4 ,a very old man visited us here with a present of maize3 like the others1 he had never before seen a white man1 and1 when conversing with him1 some of the young men remarked that they were the true ancients1 for they had now seen more wonderful things than their forefathers4 ,one of ,intemese's men stole a fowl given me by a lady of the village4 ,when charged with the theft1 every one of ,intemese's party vociferated his innocence and indignation at being suspected1 continuing their loud asseverations and gesticulations for some minutes4 ,one of my men1 ,loyanke1 went off to the village1 brought the lady who had presented the fowl to identify it1 and then pointed to the hut in which it was hidden4 ,the ,balonda collected round him1 evincing great wrath2 but ,loyanke seized his battle-axe in the proper manner for striking1 and1 placing himself on a little hillock1 soon made them moderate their tones4 ,intemese then called on me to send one of my people to search the huts if ,i suspected his people4 ,the man sent soon found it1 and brought it out1 to the confusion of ,intemese and the laughter of our party4 ,this incident is mentioned to show that the greater superstition which exists here does not lead to the practice of the virtues4 ,we never met an instance like this of theft from a white man among the ,makololo1 though they complain of the ,makalaka as addicted to pilfering4 ,the honesty of the ,bakwains has been already noticed4 ,probably the estimation in which ,i was held as a public benefactor1 in which character ,i was not yet known to the ,balonda1 may account for the sacredness with which my property was always treated before4 ,but other incidents which happened subsequently showed1 as well as this1 that idolaters are not so virtuous as those who have no idols4 ,as the people on the banks of the ,leeba were the last of ,shinte's tribe over which ,intemese had power1 he was naturally anxious to remain as long as possible4 ,he was not idle1 but made a large wooden mortar and pestle for his wife during our journey4 ,he also carved many wooden spoons and a bowl2 then commenced a basket2 but as what he considered good living was any thing but agreeable to us1 who had been accustomed to milk and maize1 we went forward on the #b;d without him4 ,he soon followed1 but left our pontoon1 saying it would be brought by the head man of the village4 ,this was a great loss1 as we afterward found2 it remained at this village more than a year1 and when we returned a mouse had eaten a hole in it4 ,we entered on an extensive plain beyond the ,leeba1 at least twenty miles broad1 and covered with water1 ankle deep in the shallowest parts4 ,we deviated somewhat from our ,n4,w4 course by the direction of ,intemese1 and kept the hills ,piri nearly on our right during a great part of the first day1 in order to avoid the still more deeply flooded plains of ,lobale 7,luval87 on the west4 ,these1 according to ,intemese1 are at present impassable on account of being thigh deep4 ,the plains are so perfectly level that rain-water1 which this was1 stands upon them for months together4 ,they were not flooded by the ,leeba1 for that was still far within its banks4 ,here and there1 dotted over the surface1 are little islands1 on which grow stunted date-bushes and scraggy trees4 ,the plains themselves are covered with a thick sward of grass1 which conceals the water1 and makes the flats appear like great pale yellow-colored prairie-lands1 with a clear horizon1 except where interrupted here and there by trees4 ,the clear rain-water must have stood some time among the grass1 for great numbers of lotus-flowers were seen in full blow2 and the runs of water tortoises and crabs were observed2 other animals also1 which prey on the fish that find their way to the plains4 ,the continual splashing of the oxen keeps the feet of the rider constantly wet1 and my men complain of the perpetual moisture of the paths by which we have traveled in ,londa as softening their horny soles4 ,the only information we can glean is from ,intemese1 who points out the different localities as we pass along1 and among the rest ,mokala a ,mama1 his mamma's home4 ,it was interesting to hear this tall gray-headed man recall the memories of boyhood4 ,all the ,makalaka children cleave to the mother in cases of separation1 or removal from one part of the country to another4 ,this love for mothers does not argue superior morality in other respects1 or else ,intemese has forgotten any injunctions his mamma may have given him not to tell lies4 ,the respect1 however1 with which he spoke of her was quite characteristic of his race4 ,the ,bechuanas1 on the contrary1 care nothing for their mothers1 but cling to their fathers1 especially if they have any expectation of becoming heirs to their cattle4 ,our ,bakwain guide to the lake1 ,rachosi1 told me that his mother lived in the country of ,sebituane1 but1 though a good specimen of the ,bechuanas1 he laughed at the idea of going so far as from the ,lake ,ngami to the ,chobe merely for the purpose of seeing her4 ,had he been one of the ,makalaka1 he never would have parted from her4 ,we made our beds on one of the islands1 and were wretchedly supplied with firewood4 ,the booths constructed by the men were but sorry shelter1 for the rain poured down without intermission till midday4 ,there is no drainage for the prodigious masses of water on these plains1 except slow percolation into the different feeders of the ,leeba1 and into that river itself4 ,the quantity of vegetation has prevented the country from becoming furrowed by many rivulets or nullahs4 ,were it not so remarkably flat1 the drainage must have been effected by torrents1 even in spite of the matted vegetation4 ,that these extensive plains are covered with grasses only1 and the little islands with but scraggy trees1 may be accounted for by the fact1 observable every where in this country1 that1 where water stands for any length of time1 trees can not live4 ,the want of speedy drainage destroys them1 and injures the growth of those that are planted on the islands1 for they have no depth of earth not subjected to the souring influence of the stagnant water4 ,the plains of ,lobale1 to the west of these1 are said to be much more extensive than any we saw1 and their vegetation possesses similar peculiarities4 ,when the stagnant rain-water has all soaked in1 as must happen during the months in which there is no rain1 travelers are even put to straits for want of water4 ,this is stated on native testimony2 but ,i can very well believe that level plains1 in which neither wells nor gullies are met with1 may1 after the dry season1 present the opposite extreme to what we witnessed4 ,water1 however1 could always be got by digging1 a proof of which we had on our return when brought to a stand on this very plain by severe fever3 about twelve miles from the ,kasai my men dug down a few feet1 and found an abundant supply2 and we saw on one of the islands the garden of a man who1 in the dry season1 had drunk water from a well in like manner4 ,plains like these can not be inhabited while the present system of cultivation lasts4 ,the population is not yet so very large as to need them4 ,they find garden-ground enough on the gentle slopes at the sides of the rivulets1 and possess no cattle to eat off the millions of acres of fine hay we were now wading through4 ,any one who has visited the ,cape ,colony will understand me when ,i say that these immense crops resemble sown grasses more than the tufty vegetation of the south4 ,i would here request the particular attention of the reader to the phenomena these periodically deluged plains present1 because they have a most important bearing on the physical geography of a very large portion of this country4 ,the plains of ,lobale1 to the west of this1 give rise to a great many streams1 which unite1 and form the deep1 never-failing ,chobe4 ,similar extensive flats give birth to the ,loeti and ,kasai1 and1 as we shall see further on1 all the rivers of an extensive region owe their origin to oozing bogs1 and not to fountains4 ,when released from our island by the rain ceasing1 we marched on till we came to a ridge of dry inhabited land in the ,n4,w4 ,the inhabitants1 according to custom1 lent us the roofs of some huts to save the men the trouble of booth-making4 ,i suspect that the story in ,park's ,travels1 of the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion1 referred to the roof only4 ,we leave them for the villagers to replace at their leisure4 ,no payment is expected for the use of them4 ,by night it rained so copiously that all our beds were flooded from below2 and from this time forth we always made a furrow round each booth1 and used the earth to raise our sleeping-places4 ,my men turned out to work in the wet most willingly2 indeed1 they always did4 ,i could not but contrast their conduct with that of ,intemese4 ,he was thoroughly imbued with the slave spirit1 and lied on all occasions without compunction4 ,untruthfulness is a sort of refuge for the weak and oppressed4 ,we expected to move on the #dth1 but he declared that we were so near ,katema's1 if we did not send forward to apprise that chief of our approach1 he would certainly impose a fine4 ,it rained the whole day1 so we were reconciled to the delay2 but on ,sunday1 the #eth1 he let us know that we were still two days distant from ,katema4 ,we unfortunately could not manage without him1 for the country was so deluged1 we should have been brought to a halt before we went many miles by some deep valley1 every one of which was full of water4 ,intemese continued to plait his basket with all his might1 and would not come to our religious service4 ,he seemed to be afraid of our incantations1 but was always merry and jocular4 #f,,th4 ,soon after starting we crossed a branch of the ,lokalueje by means of a canoe1 and in the afternoon passed over the main stream by a like conveyance4 ,the former1 as is the case with all branches of rivers in this country1 is called nyuana ,kalueje 7child of the ,kalueje74 ,hippopotami exist in the ,lokalueje1 so it may be inferred to be perennial1 as the inhabitants asserted4 ,we can not judge of the size of the stream from what we now saw4 ,it had about forty yards of deep1 fast-flowing water1 but probably not more than half that amount in the dry season4 ,besides these1 we crossed numerous feeders in our ,n4,n4,w4 course1 and1 there being no canoes1 got frequently wet in the course of the day4 ,the oxen in some places had their heads only above water1 and the stream1 flowing over their backs1 wetted our blankets1 which we used as saddles4 ,the arm-pit was the only safe spot for carrying the watch1 for there it was preserved from rains above and waters below4 ,the men on foot crossed these gullies holding up their burdens at arms' length4 ,the ,lokalueje winds from northeast to southwest into the ,leeba4 ,the country adjacent to its banks is extremely fine and fertile1 with here and there patches of forest or clumps of magnificent trees4 ,the villagers through whose gardens we passed continue to sow and reap all the year round4 ,the grains1 as maize1 lotsa 7',pennisetum typhoideum'71 lokesh or millet1 are to be seen at all stages of their growth--some just ripe1 while at this time the ,makololo crops are not half grown4 ,my companions1 who have a good idea of the different qualities of soils1 expressed the greatest admiration of the agricultural capabilities of the whole of ,londa1 and here they were loud in their praises of the pasturage4 ,they have an accurate idea of the varieties of grasses best adapted for different kinds of stock1 and lament because here there are no cows to feed off the rich green crop1 which at this time imparts special beauty to the landscape4 ,great numbers of the omnivorous feeding fish1 ',glanis siluris'1 or mosala1 spread themselves over the flooded plains1 and1 as the waters retire1 try to find their way back again to the rivers4 ,the ,balonda make earthen dikes and hedges across the outlets of the retreating waters1 leaving only small spaces through which the chief part of the water flows4 ,in these open spaces they plant creels1 similar in shape to our own1 into which the fish can enter1 but can not return4 ,they secure large quantities of fish in this way1 which1 when smoke-dried1 make a good relish for their otherwise insipid food4 ,they use also a weir of mats made of reeds sewed together1 with but half an inch between each4 ,open spaces are left for the insertion of the creels as before4 ,in still water1 a fish-trap is employed of the same shape and plan as the common round wire mouse-trap1 which has an opening surrounded with wires pointing inward4 ,this is made of reeds and supple wands1 and food is placed inside to attract the fish4 ,besides these means of catching fish1 they use a hook of iron without a barb2 the point is bent inward instead1 so as not to allow the fish to escape4 ,nets are not so common as in the ,zouga and ,leeambye1 but they kill large quantities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a shrub1 which may be seen planted beside every village in the country4 ,on the #gth we came to the village of ,soana ,molopo1 a half-brother of ,katema1 a few miles beyond the ,lokalueje4 ,when we went to visit him1 we found him sitting with about one hundred men4 ,he called on ,intemese to give some account of us1 though no doubt it had been done in private before4 ,he then pronounced the following sentences3 ,the journey of the white man is very proper1 but ,shinte has disturbed us by showing the path to the ,makololo who accompany him4 ,he ought to have taken them through the country without showing them the towns4 ,we are afraid of the ,makololo4 ,he then gave us a handsome present of food1 and seemed perplexed by my sitting down familiarly1 and giving him a few of our ideas4 ,when we left1 ,intemese continued busily imparting an account of all we had given to ,shinte and ,masiko1 and instilling the hope that ,soana ,molopo might obtain as much as they had received4 ,accordingly1 when we expected to move on the morning of the #hth1 we got some hints about the ox which ,soana ,molopo expected to eat1 but we recommended him to get the breed of cattle for himself1 seeing his country was so well adapted for rearing stock4 ,intemese also refused to move2 he1 moreover1 tried to frighten us into parting with an ox by saying that ,soana ,molopo would send forward a message that we were a marauding party2 but we packed up and went on without him4 ,we did not absolutely need him1 but he was useful in preventing the inhabitants of secluded villages from betaking themselves to flight4 ,we wished to be on good terms with all1 and therefore put up with our guide's peccadilloes4 ,his good word respecting us had considerable influence1 and he was always asked if we had behaved ourselves like men on the way4 ,the ,makololo are viewed as great savages1 but ,intemese could not justly look with scorn on them1 for he has the mark of a large gash on his arm1 got in fighting2 and he would never tell the cause of battle1 but boasted of his powers as the ,makololo do1 till asked about a scar on his back1 betokening any thing but bravery4 ,intemese was useful in cases like that of ,monday1 when we came upon a whole village in a forest enjoying their noonday nap4 ,our sudden appearance in their midst so terrified them that one woman nearly went into convulsions from fear4 ,when they saw and heard ,intemese1 their terror subsided4 ,as usual1 we were caught by rains after leaving ,soana ,molopo's1 and made our booths at the house of ,mozinkwa1 a most intelligent and friendly man belonging to ,katema4 ,he had a fine large garden in cultivation1 and well hedged round4 ,he had made the walls of his compound1 or court-yard1 of branches of the banian1 which1 taking root1 had grown to be a live hedge of that tree4 ,mozinkwa's wife had cotton growing all round her premises1 and several plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of the country4 ,she cultivated also the common castor-oil plant1 and a larger shrub 7',jatropha curcas'71 which also yields a purgative oil4 ,here1 however1 the oil is used for anointing the heads and bodies alone4 ,we saw in her garden likewise the ,indian bringalls1 yams1 and sweet potatoes4 ,several trees were planted in the middle of the yard1 and in the deep shade they gave stood the huts of his fine family4 ,his children1 all by one mother1 very black1 but comely to view1 were the finest negro family ,i ever saw4 ,we were much pleased with the frank friendship and liberality of this man and his wife4 ,she asked me to bring her a cloth from the white man's country2 but1 when we returned1 poor ,mozinkwa's wife was in her grave1 and he1 as is the custom1 had abandoned trees1 garden1 and huts to ruin4 ,they can not live on a spot where a favorite wife has died1 probably because unable to bear the remembrance of the happy times they have spent there1 or afraid to remain in a spot where death has once visited the establishment4 ,if ever the place is revisited1 it is to pray to her1 or make some offering4 ,this feeling renders any permanent village in the country impossible4 ,we learned from ,mozinkwa that ,soana ,molopo was the elder brother of ,katema1 but that he was wanting in wisdom2 and ,katema1 by purchasing cattle and receiving in a kind manner all the fugitives who came to him1 had secured the birthright to himself1 so far as influence in the country is concerned4 ,soana's first address to us did not savor much of ,african wisdom4 ,,friday1 #aj,,th4 ,on leaving ,mozinkwa's hospitable mansion we crossed another stream1 about forty yards wide1 in canoes4 ,while this tedious process was going on1 ,i was informed that it is called the ,mona-,kalueje1 or brother of ,kalueje1 as it flows into that river2 that both the ,kalueje and ,livoa flow into the ,leeba2 and that the ,chifumadze1 swollen by the ,lotembwa1 is a feeder of that river also1 below the point where we lately crossed it4 ,it may be remarked here that these rivers were now in flood1 and that the water was all perfectly clear4 ,the vegetation on the banks is so thickly planted that the surface of the earth is not abraded by the torrents4 ,the grass is laid flat1 and forms a protection to the banks1 which are generally a stiff black loam4 ,the fact of canoes being upon them shows that1 though not large1 they are not like the southern rivulets1 which dry up during most of the year1 and render canoes unnecessary4 ,as we were crossing the river we were joined by a messenger from ,katema1 called ,shakatwala4 ,this person was a sort of steward or factotum to his chief4 ,every chief has one attached to his person1 and1 though generally poor1 they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability4 ,they act the part of messengers on all important occasions1 and possess considerable authority in the chief's household4 ,shakatwala informed us that ,katema had not received precise information about us1 but if we were peaceably disposed1 as he loved strangers1 we were to come to his town4 ,we proceeded forthwith1 but were turned aside1 by the strategy of our friend ,intemese1 to the village of ,quendende1 the father-in-law of ,katema4 ,this fine old man was so very polite that we did not regret being obliged to spend ,sunday at his village4 ,he expressed his pleasure at having a share in the honor of a visit as well as ,katema1 though it seemed to me that the conferring that pleasure required something like a pretty good stock of impudence1 in leading twenty-seven men through the country without the means of purchasing food4 ,my men did a little business for themselves in the begging line2 they generally commenced every interview with new villagers by saying ,i have come from afar2 give me something to eat4 ,i forbade this at first1 believing that1 as the ,makololo had a bad name1 the villagers gave food from fear4 ,but1 after some time1 it was evident that in many cases maize and manioc were given from pure generosity4 ,the first time ,i came to this conclusion was at the house of ,mozinkwa2 scarcely any one of my men returned from it without something in his hand2 and as they protested they had not begged1 ,i asked himself1 and found that it was the case1 and that he had given spontaneously4 ,in other parts the chiefs attended to my wants1 and the common people gave liberally to my men4 ,i presented some of my razors and iron spoons to different head men1 but my men had nothing to give2 yet every one tried to appropriate an individual in each village as ,molekane1 or comrade1 and the villagers often assented2 so1 if the reader remembers the molekane system of the ,mopato1 he may perceive that those who presented food freely would expect the ,makololo to treat them in like manner1 should they ever be placed in similar circumstances4 ,their country is so fertile that they are in no want of food themselves2 however1 their generosity was remarkable2 only one woman refused to give some of my men food1 but her husband calling out to her to be more liberal1 she obeyed1 scolding all the while4 ,in this part of the country1 buffaloes1 elands1 koodoos1 and various antelopes are to be found1 but we did not get any1 as they are exceedingly wary from being much hunted4 ,we had the same woodland and meadow as before1 with here and there pleasant negro villages2 and being all in good health1 could enjoy the fine green scenery4 ,quendende's head was a good specimen of the greater crop of wool with which the negroes of ,londa are furnished4 ,the front was parted in the middle1 and plaited into two thick rolls1 which1 falling down behind the ears1 reached the shoulders2 the rest was collected into a large knot1 which lay on the nape of the neck4 ,as he was an intelligent man1 we had much conversation together3 he had just come from attending the funeral of one of his people1 and ,i found that the great amount of drum-beating which takes place on these occasions was with the idea that the ,barimo1 or spirits1 could be drummed to sleep4 ,there is a drum in every village1 and we often hear it going from sunset to sunrise4 ,they seem to look upon the departed as vindictive beings1 and1 ,i suspect1 are more influenced by fear than by love4 ,in beginning to speak on religious subjects with those who have never heard of ,christianity1 the great fact of the ,son of ,god having come down from heaven to die for us is the prominent theme4 ,no fact more striking can be mentioned4 ,he actually came to men4 ,he himself told us about his ,father1 and the dwelling-place whither he has gone4 ,we have his words in this book1 and he really endured punishment in our stead from pure love1 etc4 ,if this fails to interest them1 nothing else will succeed4 ,we here met with some people just arrived from the town of ,matiamvo 7,muata yanvo71 who had been sent to announce the death of the late chieftain of that name4 ,matiamvo is the hereditary title1 muata meaning lord or chief4 ,the late ,matiamvo seems1 from the report of these men1 to have become insane1 for he is said to have sometimes indulged the whim of running a muck in the town and beheading whomsoever he met1 until he had quite a heap of human heads4 ,matiamvo explained this conduct by saying that his people were too many1 and he wanted to diminish them4 ,he had absolute power of life and death4 ,on inquiring whether human sacrifices were still made1 as in the time of ,pereira1 at ,cazembe's1 we were informed that these had never been so common as was represented to ,pereira1 but that it occasionally happened1 when certain charms were needed by the chief1 that a man was slaughtered for the sake of some part of his body4 ,he added that he hoped the present chief would not act like his 7mad7 predecessor1 but kill only those who were guilty of witchcraft or theft4 ,these men were very much astonished at the liberty enjoyed by the ,makololo2 and when they found that all my people held cattle1 we were told that ,matiamvo alone had a herd4 ,one very intelligent man among them asked1 ,if he should make a canoe1 and take it down the river to the ,makololo1 would he get a cow for it8 ,this question1 which my men answered in the affirmative1 was important1 as showing the knowledge of a water communication from the country of ,matiamvo to the ,makololo2 and the river runs through a fertile country abounding in large timber4 ,if the tribes have intercourse with each other1 it exerts a good influence on their chiefs to hear what other tribes think of their deeds4 ,the ,makololo have such a bad name1 on account of their perpetual forays1 that they have not been known in ,londa except as ruthless destroyers4 ,the people in ,matiamvo's country submit to much wrong from their chiefs1 and no voice can be raised against cruelty1 because they are afraid to flee elsewhere4 ,we left ,quendende's village in company with ,quendende himself1 and the principal man of the embassadors of ,matiamvo1 and after two or three miles' march to the ,n4,w41 came to the ford of the ,lotembwa1 which flows southward4 ,a canoe was waiting to ferry us over1 but it was very tedious work2 for1 though the river itself was only eighty yards wide1 the whole valley was flooded1 and we were obliged to paddle more than half a mile to get free of the water4 ,a fire was lit to warm old ,quendende1 and enable him to dry his tobacco-leaves4 ,the leaves are taken from the plant1 and spread close to the fire until they are quite dry and crisp2 they are then put into a snuff-box1 which1 with a little pestle1 serves the purpose of a mill to grind them into powder2 it is then used as snuff4 ,as we sat by the fire1 the embassadors communicated their thoughts freely respecting the customs of their race4 ,when a chief dies1 a number of servants are slaughtered with him to form his company in the other world4 ,the ,barotse followed the same custom1 and this and other usages show them to be genuine negroes1 though neither they nor the ,balonda resemble closely the typical form of that people4 ,quendende said if he were present on these occasions he would hide his people1 so that they might not be slaughtered4 ,as we go north1 the people become more bloodily superstitious4 ,we were assured that if the late ,matiamvo took a fancy to any thing1 such1 for instance1 as my watch-chain1 which was of silver wire1 and was a great curiosity1 as they had never seen metal plaited before1 he would order a whole village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger4 ,when a slave-trader visited him1 he took possession of all his goods2 then1 after ten days or a fortnight1 he would send out a party of men to pounce upon some considerable village1 and1 having killed the head man1 would pay for all the goods by selling the inhabitants4 ,this has frequently been the case1 and nearly all the visitants he ever had were men of color4 ,on asking if ,matiamvo did not know he was a man1 and would be judged1 in company with those he destroyed1 by a ,lord who is no respector of persons8 the embassador replied1 ,we do not go up to ,god1 as you do2 we are put into the ground4 ,i could not ascertain that even those who have such a distinct perception of the continued existence of departed spirits had any notion of heaven2 they appear to imagine the souls to be always near the place of sepulture4 ,after crossing the ,river ,lotembwa we traveled about eight miles1 and came to ,katema's straggling town 7lat4 #aa;d #ce' #di ,s41 long4 #bb;d #bg' ,e474 ,it is more a collection of villages than a town4 ,we were led out about half a mile from the houses1 that we might make for ourselves the best lodging we could of the trees and grass1 while ,intemese was taken to ,katema to undergo the usual process of pumping as to our past conduct and professions4 ,katema soon afterward sent a handsome present of food4 ,next morning we had a formal presentation1 and found ,katema seated on a sort of throne1 with about three hundred men on the ground around1 and thirty women1 who were said to be his wives1 close behind him4 ,the main body of the people were seated in a semicircle1 at a distance of fifty yards4 ,each party had its own head man stationed at a little distance in front1 and1 when beckoned by the chief1 came near him as councilors4 ,intemese gave our history1 and ,katema placed sixteen large baskets of meal before us1 half a dozen fowls1 and a dozen eggs1 and expressed regret that we had slept hungry3 he did not like any stranger to suffer want in his town2 and added1 ,go home1 and cook and eat1 and you will then be in a fit state to speak to me at an audience ,i will give you to-morrow4 ,he was busily engaged in hearing the statements of a large body of fine young men who had fled from ,kangenke1 chief of ,lobale1 on account of his selling their relatives to the native ,portuguese who frequent his country4 ,katema is a tall man1 about forty years of age1 and his head was ornamented with a helmet of beads and feathers4 ,he had on a snuff-brown coat1 with a broad band of tinsel down the arms1 and carried in his hand a large tail made of the caudal extremities of a number of gnus4 ,this has charms attached to it1 and he continued waving it in front of himself all the time we were there4 ,he seemed in good spirits1 laughing heartily several times4 ,this is a good sign1 for a man who shakes his sides with mirth is seldom difficult to deal with4 ,when we rose to take leave1 all rose with us1 as at ,shinte's4 ,returning next morning1 ,katema addressed me thus3 ,i am the great ,moene 7lord7 ,katema1 the fellow of ,matiamvo4 ,there is no one in the country equal to ,matiamvo and me4 ,i have always lived here1 and my forefathers too4 ,there is the house in which my father lived4 ,you found no human skulls near the place where you are encamped4 ,i never killed any of the traders2 they all come to me4 ,i am the great ,moene ,katema1 of whom you have heard4 ,he looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy1 and dreamed of his greatness4 ,on explaining my objects to him1 he promptly pointed out three men who would be our guides1 and explained that the northwest path was the most direct1 and that by which all traders came1 but that the water at present standing on the plains would reach up to the loins2 he would therefore send us by a more northerly route1 which no trader had yet traversed4 ,this was more suited to our wishes1 for we never found a path safe that had been trodden by slave-traders4 ,we presented a few articles1 which pleased him highly3 a small shawl1 a razor1 three bunches of beads1 some buttons1 and a powder-horn4 ,apologizing for the insignificance of the gift1 ,i wished to know what ,i could bring him from ,loanda1 saying1 not a large thing1 but something small4 ,he laughed heartily at the limitation1 and replied1 ,every thing of the white people would be acceptable1 and he would receive any thing thankfully2 but the coat he then had on was old1 and he would like another4 ,i introduced the subject of the ,bible1 but one of the old councilors broke in1 told all he had picked up from the ,mambari1 and glided off into several other subjects4 ,it is a misery to speak through an interpreter1 as ,i was now forced to do4 ,with a body of men like mine1 composed as they were of six different tribes1 and all speaking the language of the ,bechuanas1 there was no difficulty in communicating on common subjects with any tribe we came to2 but doling out a story in which they felt no interest1 and which ,i understood only sufficiently well to perceive that a mere abridgment was given1 was uncommonly slow work4 ,neither could ,katema's attention be arrested1 except by compliments1 of which they have always plenty to bestow as well as receive4 ,we were strangers1 and knew that1 as ,makololo1 we had not the best of characters1 yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and liberal4 ,i complimented him on the possession of cattle1 and pleased him by telling him how he might milk the cows4 ,he has a herd of about thirty1 really splendid animals1 all reared from two which he bought from the ,balobale when he was young4 ,they are generally of a white color1 and are quite wild1 running off with graceful ease like a herd of elands on the approach of a stranger4 ,they excited the unbounded admiration of the ,makololo1 and clearly proved that the country was well adapted for them4 ,when ,katema wishes to slaughter one1 he is obliged to shoot it as if it were a buffalo4 ,matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle in a similar state4 ,i never could feel certain as to the reason why they do not all possess cattle in a country containing such splendid pasturage4 ,as ,katema did not offer an ox1 as would have been done by a ,makololo or ,caffre chief1 we slaughtered one of our own1 and all of us were delighted to get a meal of meat1 after subsisting so long on the light porridge and green maize of ,londa4 ,on occasions of slaughtering an animal1 some pieces of it are in the fire before the skin is all removed from the body4 ,a frying-pan full of these pieces having been got quickly ready1 my men crowded about their father1 and ,i handed some all round4 ,it was a strange sight to the ,balonda1 who were looking on1 wondering4 ,i offered portions to them too1 but these were declined1 though they are excessively fond of a little animal food to eat with their vegetable diet4 ,they would not eat with us1 but they would take the meat and cook it in their own way1 and then use it4 ,i thought at one time that they had imported something from the ,mohammedans1 and the more especially as an exclamation of surprise1 ,allah1 sounds like the ,illah of the ,arabs2 but we found1 a little farther on1 another form of salutation1 of ,christian 787 origin1 ,ave-rie 7,ave ,marie74 ,the salutations probably travel farther than the faith4 ,my people1 when satisfied with a meal like that which they enjoy so often at home1 amused themselves by an uproarious dance4 ,katema sent to ask what ,i had given them to produce so much excitement4 ,intemese replied it was their custom1 and they meant no harm4 ,the companion of the ox we slaughtered refused food for two days1 and went lowing about for him continually4 ,he seemed inconsolable for his loss1 and tried again and again to escape back to the ,makololo country4 ,my men remarked1 ,he thinks they will kill me as well as my friend4 ,katema thought it the result of art1 and had fears of my skill in medicine1 and of course witchcraft4 ,he refused to see the magic lantern4 ,one of the affairs which had been intrusted by ,shinte to ,intemese was the rescue of a wife who had eloped with a young man belonging to ,katema4 ,as this was the only case ,i have met with in the interior in which a fugitive was sent back to a chief against his own will1 ,i am anxious to mention it4 ,on ,intemese claiming her as his master's wife1 she protested loudly against it1 saying she knew she was not going back to be a wife again2 she was going back to be sold to the ,mambari4 ,my men formed many friendships with the people of ,katema1 and some of the poorer classes said in confidence1 ,we wish our children could go back with you to the ,makololo country2 here we are all in danger of being sold4 ,my men were of opinion that it was only the want of knowledge of the southern country which prevented an exodus of all the lower portions of ,londa population thither4 ,it is remarkable how little people living in a flat forest country like this know of distant tribes4 ,an old man1 who said he had been born about the same time as the late ,matiamvo1 and had been his constant companion through life1 visited us2 and as ,i was sitting on some grass in front of the little gipsy tent mending my camp stool1 ,i invited him to take a seat on the grass beside me4 ,this was peremptorily refused3 he had never sat on the ground during the late chief's reign1 and he was not going to degrade himself now4 ,one of my men handed him a log of wood taken from the fire1 and helped him out of the difficulty4 ,when ,i offered him some cooked meat on a plate1 he would not touch that either1 but would take it home4 ,so ,i humored him by sending a servant to bear a few ounces of meat to the town behind him4 ,he mentioned the ,lolo 7,lulua7 as the branch of the ,leeambye which flows southward or ,s4,s4,e42 but the people of ,matiamvo had never gone far down it1 as their chief had always been afraid of encountering a tribe whom1 from the description given1 ,i could recognize as the ,makololo4 ,he described five rivers as falling into the ,lolo1 viz41 the ,lishish1 ,liss or ,lise1 ,kalileme1 ,ishidish1 and ,molong4 ,none of these are large1 but when they are united in the ,lolo they form a considerable stream4 ,the country through which the ,lolo flows is said to be flat1 fertile1 well peopled1 and there are large patches of forest4 ,in this report he agreed perfectly with the people of ,matiamvo1 whom we had met at ,quendende's village4 ,but we never could get him1 or any one in this quarter1 to draw a map on the ground1 as people may readily be got to do in the south4 ,katema promised us the aid of some of his people as carriers1 but his rule is not very stringent or efficient1 for they refused to turn out for the work4 ,they were ,balobale2 and he remarked on their disobedience that1 though he received them as fugitives1 they did not feel grateful enough to obey1 and if they continued rebellious he must drive them back whence they came2 but there is little fear of that1 as all the chiefs are excessively anxious to collect men in great numbers around them4 ,these ,balobale would not go1 though our guide ,shakatwala ran after some of them with a drawn sword4 ,this degree of liberty to rebel was very striking to us1 as it occurred in a country where people may be sold1 and often are so disposed of when guilty of any crime2 and we well knew that open disobedience like this among the ,makololo would be punished with death without much ceremony4 ,on ,sunday1 the #aith1 both ,i and several of our party were seized with fever1 and ,i could do nothing but toss about in my little tent1 with the thermometer above #ij ,deg41 though this was the beginning of winter1 and my men made as much shade as possible by planting branches of trees all round and over it4 ,we have1 for the first time in my experience in ,africa1 had a cold wind from the north4 ,all the winds from that quarter are hot1 and those from the south are cold1 but they seldom blow from either direction4 #bj,,th4 ,we were glad to get away1 though not on account of any scarcity of food2 for my men1 by giving small presents of meat as an earnest of their sincerity1 formed many friendships with the people of ,katema4 ,we went about four or five miles in a ,n4,n4,w4 direction1 then two in a westerly one1 and came round the small end of ,lake ,dilolo4 ,it seemed1 as far as we could at this time discern1 to be like a river a quarter of a mile wide4 ,it is abundantly supplied with fish and hippopotami2 the broad part1 which we did not this time see1 is about three miles wide1 and the lake is almost seven or eight long4 ,if it be thought strange that ,i did not go a few miles to see the broad part1 which1 according to ,katema1 had never been visited by any of the traders1 it must be remembered that in consequence of fever ,i had eaten nothing for two entire days1 and1 instead of sleep1 the whole of the nights were employed in incessant drinking of water1 and ,i was now so glad to get on in the journey and see some of my fellow fever-patients crawling along1 that ,i could not brook the delay1 which astronomical observations for accurately determining the geographical position of this most interesting spot would have occasioned4 ,we observed among the people of ,katema a love for singing-birds4 ,one pretty little songster1 named cabazo1 a species of canary1 is kept in very neatly made cages1 having traps on the top to entice its still free companions4 ,on asking why they kept them in confinement1 ,because they sing sweetly1 was the answer4 ,they feed them on the lotsa 7',pennisetum typhoideum'71 of which great quantities are cultivated as food for man1 and these canaries plague the gardeners here1 very much in the same way as our sparrows do at home4 ,i was pleased to hear the long-forgotten cry of alarm of the canaries in the woods1 and observed one warbling forth its song1 and keeping in motion from side to side1 as these birds do in the cage4 ,we saw also tame pigeons2 and the ,barotse1 who always take care to exalt ,santuru1 reminded us that this chief had many doves1 and kept canaries which had reddish heads when the birds attained maturity4 ,those we now see have the real canary color on the breast1 with a tinge of green2 the back1 yellowish green1 with darker longitudinal bands meeting in the centre2 a narrow dark band passes from the bill over the eye and back to the bill again4 ,the birds of song here set up quite a merry chorus in the mornings1 and abound most near the villages4 ,some sing as loudly as our thrushes1 and the king-hunter 7',halcyon ,senegalensis'7 makes a clear whirring sound like that of a whistle with a pea in it4 ,during the heat of the day all remain silent1 and take their siesta in the shadiest parts of the trees1 but in the cool of the evening they again exert themselves in the production of pleasant melody4 ,it is remarkable that so many songbirds abound where there is a general paucity of other animal life4 ,as we went forward we were struck by the comparative absence of game and the larger kind of fowls4 ,the rivers contain very few fish4 ,common flies are not troublesome1 as they are wherever milk is abundant2 they are seen in company with others of the same size and shape1 but whose tiny feet do not tickle the skin1 as is the case with their companions4 ,mosquitoes are seldom so numerous as to disturb the slumbers of a weary man4 ,but1 though this region is free from common insect plagues1 and from tsetse1 it has others4 ,feeling something running across my forehead as ,i was falling asleep1 ,i put up the hand to wipe it off1 and was sharply stung both on the hand and head2 the pain was very acute4 ,on obtaining a light1 we found that it had been inflicted by a light-colored spider1 about half an inch in length1 and1 one of the men having crushed it with his fingers1 ,i had no opportunity of examining whether the pain had been produced by poison from a sting or from its mandibles4 ,no remedy was applied1 and the pain ceased in about two hours4 ,the ,bechuanas believe that there is a small black spider in the country whose bite is fatal4 ,i have not met with an instance in which death could be traced to this insect1 though a very large black1 hairy spider1 an inch and a quarter long and three quarters of an inch broad1 is frequently seen1 having a process at the end of its front claws similar to that at the end of the scorpion's tail1 and when the bulbous portion of it is pressed1 the poison may be seen oozing out from the point4 ,we have also spiders in the south which seize their prey by leaping upon it from a distance of several inches4 ,when alarmed1 they can spring about a foot away from the object of their own fear4 ,of this kind there are several varieties4 ,a large reddish spider 7',mygale'7 obtains its food in a different manner than either patiently waiting in ambush or by catching it with a bound4 ,it runs about with great velocity in and out1 behind and around every object1 searching for what it may devour1 and1 from its size and rapid motions1 excites the horror of every stranger4 ,i never knew it to do any harm except frightening the nervous1 and ,i believe few could look upon it for the first time without feeling himself in danger4 ,it is named by the natives selali1 and is believed to be the maker of a hinged cover for its nest4 ,you see a door1 about the size of a shilling1 lying beside a deep hole of nearly similar diameter4 ,the inside of the door lying upward1 and which attracts your notice1 is of a pure white silky substance1 like paper4 ,the outer side is coated over with earth1 precisely like that in which the hole is made4 ,if you try to lift it1 you find it is fastened by a hinge on one side1 and1 if it is turned over upon the hole1 it fits it exactly1 and the earthy side being then uppermost1 it is quite impossible to detect the situation of the nest4 ,unfortunately1 this cavity for breeding is never seen except when the owner is out1 and has left the door open behind her4 ,in some parts of the country there are great numbers of a large1 beautiful yellow-spotted spider1 the webs of which are about a yard in diameter4 ,the lines on which these webs are spun are suspended from one tree to another1 and are as thick as coarse thread4 ,the fibres radiate from a central point1 where the insect waits for its prey4 ,the webs are placed perpendicularly1 and a common occurrence in walking is to get the face enveloped in them as a lady is in a veil4 ,another kind of spider lives in society1 and forms so great a collection of webs placed at every angle1 that the trunk of a tree surrounded by them can not be seen4 ,a piece of hedge is often so hidden by this spider that the branches are invisible4 ,another is seen on the inside of the walls of huts among the ,makololo in great abundance4 ,it is round in shape1 spotted1 brown in color1 and the body half an inch in diameter2 the spread of the legs is an inch and a half4 ,it makes a smooth spot for itself on the wall1 covered with the above-mentioned white silky substance4 ,there it is seen standing the whole day1 and ,i never could ascertain how it fed4 ,it has no web1 but a carpet1 and is a harmless1 though an ugly neighbor4 ,immediately beyond ,dilolo there is a large flat about twenty miles in breadth4 ,here ,shakatwala insisted on our remaining to get supplies of food from ,katema's subjects1 before entering the uninhabited watery plains4 ,when asked the meaning of the name ,dilolo1 ,shakatwala gave the following account of the formation of the lake4 ,a female chief1 called ,moene 7lord7 ,monenga1 came one evening to the village of ,mosogo1 a man who lived in the vicinity1 but who had gone to hunt with his dogs4 ,she asked for a supply of food1 and ,mosogo's wife gave her a sufficient quantity4 ,proceeding to another village standing on the spot now occupied by the water1 she preferred the same demand1 and was not only refused1 but1 when she uttered a threat for their niggardliness1 was taunted with the question1 ,what could she do though she were thus treated8 ,in order to show what she could do1 she began a song1 in slow time1 and uttered her own name1 ,monenga-wo-o4 ,as she prolonged the last note1 the village1 people1 fowls1 and dogs sank into the space now called ,dilolo4 ,when ,kasimakate1 the head man of this village1 came home and found out the catastrophe1 he cast himself into the lake1 and is supposed to be in it still4 ,the name is derived from ilolo1 despair1 because this man gave up all hope when his family was destroyed4 ,monenga was put to death4 ,this may be a faint tradition of the ,deluge1 and it is remarkable as the only one ,i have met with in this country4 ,heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front 7,n4,n4,w47 in one day1 and the constant wading among the grass hurt the feet of the men4 ,there is a footpath all the way across1 but as this is worn down beneath the level of the rest of the plain1 it is necessarily the deepest portion1 and the men1 avoiding it1 make a new walk by its side4 ,a path1 however narrow1 is a great convenience1 as any one who has traveled on foot in ,africa will admit4 ,the virtual want of it here caused us to make slow and painful progress4 ,ants surely are wiser than some men1 for they learn by experience4 ,they have established themselves even on these plains1 where water stands so long annually as to allow the lotus1 and other aqueous plants1 to come to maturity4 ,when all the ant horizon is submerged a foot deep1 they manage to exist by ascending to little houses built of black tenacious loam on stalks of grass1 and placed higher than the line of inundation4 ,this must have been the result of experience2 for1 if they had waited till the water actually invaded their terrestrial habitations1 they would not have been able to procure materials for their aerial quarters1 unless they dived down to the bottom for every mouthful of clay4 ,some of these upper chambers are about the size of a bean1 and others as large as a man's thumb4 ,they must have built in anticipation1 and if so1 let us humbly hope that the sufferers by the late inundations in ,france may be possessed of as much common sense as the little black ants of the ,dilolo plains4 ,chapter #ah4 ,the ,watershed between the northern and southern ,rivers--,a deep ,valley-- ,rustic ,bridge--,fountains on the ,slopes of the ,valleys--,village of ,kabinje--,good ,effects of the ,belief in the ,power of ,charms--,demand for ,gunpowder and ,english ,calico--,the ,kasai--,vexatious ,trick--,want of ,food--,no ,game--,katende's unreasonable ,demand--,a grave ,offense--,toll-bridge ,keeper--,greedy ,guides--,flooded ,valleys--,swim the ,nyuana ,loke--,prompt ,kindness of my ,men--,makololo ,remarks on the rich uncultivated ,valleys--,difference in the ,color of ,africans--,reach a ,village of the ,chiboque--,the ,head ,man's impudent ,message--,surrounds our ,encampment with his ,warriors--,the ,pretense--,their ,demand--,prospect of a ,fight--,way in which it was averted--,change our ,path--,summer-- ,fever--,beehives and the ,honey-guide--,instinct of ,trees--,climbers--,the ,ox ,sinbad--,absence of ,thorns in the ,forests--,plant peculiar to a forsaken ,garden--,bad ,guides--,insubordination suppressed--,beset by ,enemies--,a ,robber ,party--,more ,troubles--,detained by ,ionga ,panza--,his ,village--,annoyed by ,bangala ,traders--,my ,men discouraged--,their ,determination and ,precaution4 #bd,,th ,,of ,,february4 ,on reaching unflooded lands beyond the plain1 we found the villages there acknowledged the authority of the chief named ,katende1 and we discovered1 also1 to our surprise1 that the almost level plain we had passed forms the watershed between the southern and northern rivers1 for we had now entered a district in which the rivers flowed in a northerly direction into the ,kasai or ,loke1 near to which we now were1 while the rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running southward4 ,having met with kind treatment and aid at the first village1 ,katema's guides returned1 and we were led to the ,n4,n4,w4 by the inhabitants1 and descended into the very first really deep valley we had seen since leaving ,kolobeng4 ,a stream ran along the bottom of a slope of three or four hundred yards from the plains above4 ,we crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged thigh-deep by the rains4 ,the trees growing along the stream of this lovely valley were thickly planted and very high4 ,many had sixty or eighty feet of clean straight trunk1 and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath them4 ,ascending the opposite side1 we came1 in two hours' time1 to another valley1 equally beautiful1 and with a stream also in its centre4 ,it may seem mere trifling to note such an unimportant thing as the occurrence of a valley1 there being so many in every country under the sun2 but as these were branches of that in which the ,kasai or ,loke flows1 and both that river and its feeders derive their water in a singular manner from the valley sides1 ,i may be excused for calling particular attention to the more furrowed nature of the country4 ,at different points on the slopes of these valleys which we now for the first time entered1 there are oozing fountains1 surrounded by clumps of the same evergreen1 straight1 large-leaved trees we have noticed along the streams4 ,these spots are generally covered with a mat of grassy vegetation1 and possess more the character of bogs than of fountains4 ,they slowly discharge into the stream below1 and are so numerous along both banks as to give a peculiar character to the landscape4 ,these groups of sylvan vegetation are generally of a rounded form1 and the trunks of the trees are tall and straight1 while those on the level plains above are low and scraggy in their growth4 ,there can be little doubt but that the water1 which stands for months on the plains1 soaks in1 and finds its way into the rivers and rivulets by percolating through the soil1 and out by these oozing bogs2 and the difference between the growth of these trees1 though they be of different species1 may be a proof that the stuntedness of those on the plains is owing to being1 in the course of each year1 more subjected to drought than moisture4 ,reaching the village of ,kabinje1 in the evening he sent us a present of tobacco1 ,mutokuane or bang 7',cannabis sativa'71 and maize1 by the man who went forward to announce our arrival1 and a message expressing satisfaction at the prospect of having trade with the coast4 ,the westing we were making brought us among people who are frequently visited by the ,mambari as slave-dealers4 ,this trade causes bloodshed2 for when a poor family is selected as the victims1 it is necessary to get rid of the older members of it1 because they are supposed to be able to give annoyance to the chief afterward by means of enchantments4 ,the belief in the power of charms for good or evil produces not only honesty1 but a great amount of gentle dealing4 ,the powerful are often restrained in their despotism from a fear that the weak and helpless may injure them by their medical knowledge4 ,they have many fears4 ,a man at one of the villages we came to showed us the grave of his child1 and1 with much apparent feeling1 told us she had been burned to death in her hut4 ,he had come with all his family1 and built huts around it in order to weep for her4 ,he thought1 if the grave were left unwatched1 the witches would come and bewitch them by putting medicines on the body4 ,they have a more decided belief in the continued existence of departed spirits than any of the more southerly tribes4 ,even the ,barotse possess it in a strong degree1 for one of my men of that tribe1 on experiencing headache1 said1 with a sad and thoughtful countenance1 ,my father is scolding me because ,i do not give him any of the food ,i eat4 ,i asked where his father was4 ,among the ,barimo1 was the reply4 ,when we wished to move on1 ,kabinje refused a guide to the next village because he was at war with it2 but1 after much persuasion1 he consented1 provided that the guide should be allowed to return as soon as he came in sight of the enemy's village4 ,this we felt to be a misfortune1 as the people all suspect a man who comes telling his own tale2 but there being no help for it1 we went on1 and found the head man of a village on the rivulet ,kalomba1 called ,kangenke1 a very different man from what his enemy represented4 ,we found1 too1 that the idea of buying and selling took the place of giving for friendship4 ,as ,i had nothing with which to purchase food except a parcel of beads which were preserved for worse times1 ,i began to fear that we should soon be compelled to suffer more from hunger than we had done4 ,the people demanded gunpowder for every thing4 ,if we had possessed any quantity of that article1 we should have got on well1 for here it is of great value4 ,on our return1 near this spot we found a good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of gunpowder4 ,next to that1 ,english calico was in great demand1 and so were beads2 but money was of no value whatever4 ,gold is quite unknown2 it is thought to be brass2 trade is carried on by barter alone4 ,the people know nothing of money4 ,a purse-proud person would here feel the ground move from beneath his feet4 ,occasionally a large piece of copper1 in the shape of a ,st4 ,andrew's cross1 is offered for sale4 ,,february #bg,,th4 ,kangenke promptly furnished guides this morning1 so we went briskly on a short distance1 and came to a part of the ,kasye1 ,kasai1 or ,loke1 where he had appointed two canoes to convey us across4 ,this is a most beautiful river1 and very much like the ,clyde in ,scotland4 ,the slope of the valley down to the stream is about five hundred yards1 and finely wooded4 ,it is1 perhaps1 one hundred yards broad1 and was winding slowly from side to side in the beautiful green glen1 in a course to the north and northeast4 ,in both the directions from which it came and to which it went it seemed to be alternately embowered in sylvan vegetation1 or rich meadows covered with tall grass4 ,the men pointed out its course1 and said1 ,though you sail along it for months1 you will turn without seeing the end of it4 ,while at the ford of the ,kasai we were subjected to a trick1 of which we had been forewarned by the people of ,shinte4 ,a knife had been dropped by one of ,kangenke's people in order to entrap my men2 it was put down near our encampment1 as if lost1 the owner in the mean time watching till one of my men picked it up4 ,nothing was said until our party was divided1 one half on this1 and the other on that bank of the river4 ,then the charge was made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife4 ,certain of my people's honesty1 ,i desired the man1 who was making a great noise1 to search the luggage for it2 the unlucky lad who had taken the bait then came forward and confessed that he had the knife in a basket1 which was already taken over the river4 ,when it was returned1 the owner would not receive it back unless accompanied with a fine4 ,the lad offered beads1 but these were refused with scorn4 ,a shell hanging round his neck1 similar to that which ,shinte had given me1 was the object demanded1 and the victim of the trick1 as we all knew it to be1 was obliged to part with his costly ornament4 ,i could not save him from the loss1 as all had been forewarned2 and it is the universal custom among the ,makololo and many other tribes to show whatever they may find to the chief person of their company1 and make a sort of offer of it to him4 ,this lad ought to have done so to me2 the rest of the party always observed this custom4 ,i felt annoyed at the imposition1 but the order we invariably followed in crossing a river forced me to submit4 ,the head of the party remained to be ferried over last2 so1 if ,i had not come to terms1 ,i would have been1 as ,i always was in crossing rivers which we could not swim1 completely in the power of the enemy4 ,it was but rarely we could get a head man so witless as to cross a river with us1 and remain on the opposite bank in a convenient position to be seized as a hostage in case of my being caught4 ,this trick is but one of a number equally dishonorable which are practiced by tribes that lie adjacent to the more civilized settlements4 ,the ,balonda farther east told us1 by way of warning1 that many parties of the more central tribes had at various periods set out1 in order to trade with the white men themselves1 instead of through the ,mambari1 but had always been obliged to return without reaching their destination1 in consequence of so many pretexts being invented by the tribes encountered in the way for fining them of their ivory4 ,this ford was in #aa;d #ae' #dg ,s4 latitude1 but the weather was so excessively cloudy we got no observation for longitude4 ,we were now in want of food1 for1 to the great surprise of my companions1 the people of ,kangenke gave nothing except by way of sale1 and charged the most exorbitant prices for the little meal and manioc they brought4 ,the only article of barter my men had was a little fat saved from the ox we slaughtered at ,katema's1 so ,i was obliged to give them a portion of the stock of beads4 ,one day 7#bith7 of westing brought us from the ,kasai to near the village of ,katende1 and we saw that we were in a land where no hope could be entertained of getting supplies of animal food1 for one of our guides caught a light-blue colored mole and two mice for his supper4 ,the care with which he wrapped them up in a leaf and slung them on his spear told that we could not hope to enjoy any larger game4 ,we saw no evidence of any animals besides2 and1 on coming to the villages beyond this1 we often saw boys and girls engaged in digging up these tiny quadrupeds4 ,katende sent for me on the day following our arrival1 and1 being quite willing to visit him1 ,i walked1 for this purpose1 about three miles from our encampment4 ,when we approached the village we were desired to enter a hut1 and1 as it was raining at the time1 we did so4 ,after a long time spent in giving and receiving messages from the great man1 we were told that he wanted either a man1 a tusk1 beads1 copper rings1 or a shell1 as payment for leave to pass through his country4 ,no one1 we were assured1 was allowed that liberty1 or even to behold him1 without something of the sort being presented4 ,having humbly explained our circumstances1 and that he could not expect to catch a humble cow by the horns--a proverb similar to ours that you can't draw milk out of a stone--we were told to go home1 and he would speak again to us next day4 ,i could not avoid a hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage1 and made the best of my way home in the still pouring rain4 ,my men were rather nettled at this want of hospitality1 but1 after talking over the matter with one of ,katende's servants1 he proposed that some small article should be given1 and an attempt made to please ,katende4 ,i turned out my shirts1 and selected the worst one as a sop for him1 and invited ,katende to come and choose any thing else ,i had1 but added that1 when ,i should reach my own chief naked1 and was asked what ,i had done with my clothes1 ,i should be obliged to confess that ,i had left them with ,katende4 ,the shirt was dispatched to him1 and some of my people went along with the servant2 they soon returned1 saying that the shirt had been accepted1 and guides and food too would be sent to us next day4 ,the chief had1 moreover1 expressed a hope to see me on my return4 ,he is reported to be very corpulent4 ,the traders who have come here seem to have been very timid1 yielding to every demand made on the most frivolous pretenses4 ,one of my men1 seeing another much like an acquaintance at home1 addressed him by the name of the latter in sport1 telling him1 at the same time1 why he did so2 this was pronounced to be a grave offense1 and a large fine demanded2 when the case came before me ,i could see no harm in what had been done1 and told my people not to answer the young fellow4 ,the latter felt himself disarmed1 for it is chiefly in a brawl they have power2 then words are spoken in anger which rouse the passions of the complainant's friends4 ,in this case1 after vociferating some time1 the would-be offended party came and said to my man that1 if they exchanged some small gift1 all would be right1 but1 my man taking no notice of him1 he went off rather crestfallen4 ,my men were as much astonished as myself at the demand for payment for leave to pass1 and the almost entire neglect of the rules of hospitality4 ,katende gave us only a little meal and manioc1 and a fowl4 ,being detained two days by heavy rains1 we felt that a good stock of patience was necessary in traveling through this country in the rainy season4 ,passing onward without seeing ,katende1 we crossed a small rivulet1 the ,sengko1 by which we had encamped1 and after two hours came to another1 the ,totelo1 which was somewhat larger1 and had a bridge over it4 ,at the farther end of this structure stood a negro1 who demanded fees4 ,he said the bridge was his2 the path his2 the guides were his children2 and if we did not pay him he would prevent farther progress4 ,this piece of civilization ,i was not prepared to meet1 and stood a few seconds looking at our bold toll-keeper1 when one of my men took off three copper bracelets1 which paid for the whole party4 ,the negro was a better man than he at first seemed1 for he immediately went to his garden and brought us some leaves of tobacco as a present4 ,when we had got fairly away from the villages1 the guides from ,kangenke sat down and told us that there were three paths in front1 and1 if we did not at once present them with a cloth1 they would leave us to take whichever we might like best4 ,as ,i had pointed out the direction in which ,loanda lay1 and had only employed them for the sake of knowing the paths between villages which lay along our route1 and always objected when they led us in any other than the ,loanda direction1 ,i wished my men now to go on without the guides1 trusting to ourselves to choose the path which would seem to lead us in the direction we had always followed4 ,but ,mashauana1 fearing lest we might wander1 asked leave to give his own cloth1 and when the guides saw that1 they came forward shouting ,averie1 ,averie6 ,in the afternoon of this day we came to a valley about a mile wide1 filled with clear1 fast-flowing water4 ,the men on foot were chin deep in crossing1 and we three on ox-back got wet to the middle1 the weight of the animals preventing them from swimming4 ,a thunder-shower descending completed the partial drenching of the plain1 and gave a cold1 uncomfortable packing in a wet blanket that night4 ,next day we found another flooded valley about half a mile wide1 with a small and now deep rivulet in its middle1 flowing rapidly to the ,s4,s4,e41 or toward the ,kasai4 ,the middle part of this flood1 being the bed of what at other times is the rivulet1 was so rapid that we crossed by holding on to the oxen1 and the current soon dashed them to the opposite bank2 we then jumped off1 and1 the oxen being relieved of their burdens1 we could pull them on to the shallower part4 ,the rest of the valley was thigh deep and boggy1 but holding on by the belt which fastened the blanket to the ox1 we each floundered through the nasty slough as well as we could4 ,these boggy parts1 lying parallel to the stream1 were the most extensive we had come to3 those mentioned already were mere circumscribed patches2 these extended for miles along each bank2 but even here1 though the rapidity of the current was very considerable1 the thick sward of grass was laid flat along the sides of the stream1 and the soil was not abraded so much as to discolor the flood4 ,when we came to the opposite side of this valley1 some pieces of the ferruginous conglomerate1 which forms the capping to all other rocks in a large district around and north of this1 cropped out1 and the oxen bit at them as if surprised by the appearance of stone as much as we were2 or it may have contained some mineral of which they stood in need4 ,we had not met with a stone since leaving ,shinte's4 ,the country is covered with deep alluvial soil of a dark color and very fertile4 ,in the afternoon we came to another stream1 nyuana ,loke 7or child of ,loke71 with a bridge over it4 ,the men had to swim off to each end of the bridge1 and when on it were breast deep2 some preferred holding on by the tails of the oxen the whole way across4 ,i intended to do this too2 but1 riding to the deep part1 before ,i could dismount and seize the helm the ox dashed off with his companions1 and his body sank so deep that ,i failed in my attempt even to catch the blanket belt1 and if ,i pulled the bridle the ox seemed as if he would come backward upon me1 so ,i struck out for the opposite bank alone4 ,my poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed when they saw me parted from the cattle1 and about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush into the water for my rescue1 and just as ,i reached the opposite bank one seized my arm1 and another threw his around my body4 ,when ,i stood up1 it was most gratifying to see them all struggling toward me4 ,some had leaped off the bridge1 and allowed their cloaks to float down the stream4 ,part of my goods1 abandoned in the hurry1 were brought up from the bottom after ,i was safe4 ,great was the pleasure expressed when they found that ,i could swim1 like themselves1 without the aid of a tail1 and ,i did and do feel grateful to these poor heathens for the promptitude with which they dashed in to save1 as they thought1 my life4 ,i found my clothes cumbersome in the water2 they could swim quicker from being naked4 ,they swim like dogs1 not frog-fashion1 as we do4 ,in the evening we crossed the small rivulet ,lozeze1 and came to some villages of the ,kasabi1 from whom we got some manioc in exchange for beads4 ,they tried to frighten us by telling of the deep rivers we should have to cross in our way4 ,i was drying my clothes by turning myself round and round before the fire4 ,my men laughed at the idea of being frightened by rivers4 ,we can all swim3 who carried the white man across the river but himself8 ,i felt proud of their praise4 ,,saturday1 #d,,th ,,march4 ,came to the outskirts of the territory of the ,chiboque4 ,we crossed the ,konde and ,kaluze rivulets4 ,the former is a deep1 small stream with a bridge1 the latter insignificant2 the valleys in which these rivulets run are beautifully fertile4 ,my companions are continually lamenting over the uncultivated vales in such words as these3 ,what a fine country for cattle6 ,my heart is sore to see such fruitful valleys for corn lying waste4 ,at the time these words were put down ,i had come to the belief that the reason why the inhabitants of this fine country possess no herds of cattle was owing to the despotic sway of their chiefs1 and that the common people would not be allowed to keep any domestic animals1 even supposing they could acquire them2 but on musing on the subject since1 ,i have been led to the conjecture that the rich1 fertile country of ,londa must formerly have been infested by the tsetse1 but that1 as the people killed off the game on which1 in the absence of man1 the tsetse must subsist1 the insect was starved out of the country4 ,it is now found only where wild animals abound1 and the ,balonda1 by the possession of guns1 having cleared most of the country of all the large game1 we may have happened to come just when it was possible to admit of cattle4 ,hence the success of ,katema1 ,shinte1 and ,matiamvo with their herds4 ,it would not be surprising1 though they know nothing of the circumstance2 a tribe on the ,zambesi1 which ,i encountered1 whose country was swarming with tsetse1 believed that they could not keep any cattle1 because no one loved them well enough to give them the medicine of oxen2 and even the ,portuguese at ,loanda accounted for the death of the cattle brought from the interior to the sea-coast by the prejudicial influence of the sea air6 ,one ox1 which ,i took down to the sea from the interior1 died at ,loanda1 with all the symptoms of the poison injected by tsetse1 which ,i saw myself in a district a hundred miles from the coast4 ,while at the villages of the ,kasabi we saw no evidences of want of food among the people4 ,our beads were very valuable1 but cotton cloth would have been still more so2 as we traveled along1 men1 women1 and children came running after us1 with meal and fowls for sale1 which we would gladly have purchased had we possessed any ,english manufactures4 ,when they heard that we had no cloth1 they turned back much disappointed4 ,the amount of population in the central parts of the country may be called large only as compared with the ,cape ,colony or the ,bechuana country4 ,the cultivated land is as nothing compared with what might be brought under the plow4 ,there are flowing streams in abundance1 which1 were it necessary1 could be turned to the purpose of irrigation with but little labor4 ,miles of fruitful country are now lying absolutely waste1 for there is not even game to eat off the fine pasturage1 and to recline under the evergreen1 shady groves which we are ever passing in our progress4 ,the people who inhabit the central region are not all quite black in color4 ,many incline to that of bronze1 and others are as light in hue as the ,bushmen1 who1 it may be remembered1 afford a proof that heat alone does not cause blackness1 but that heat and moisture combined do very materially deepen the color4 ,wherever we find people who have continued for ages in a hot1 humid district1 they are deep black1 but to this apparent law there are exceptions1 caused by the migrations of both tribes and individuals2 the ,makololo1 for instance1 among the tribes of the humid central basin1 appear of a sickly sallow hue when compared with the aboriginal inhabitants2 the ,batoka also1 who lived in an elevated region1 are1 when seen in company with the ,batoka of the rivers1 so much lighter in color1 they might be taken for another tribe2 but their language1 and the very marked custom of knocking out the upper front teeth1 leave no room for doubt that they are one people4 ,apart from the influences of elevation1 heat1 humidity1 and degradation1 ,i have imagined that the lighter and darker colors observed in the native population run in five longitudinal bands along the southern portion of the continent4 ,those on the seaboard of both the east and west are very dark2 then two bands of lighter color lie about three hundred miles from each coast1 of which the westerly one1 bending round1 embraces the ,kalahari ,desert and ,bechuana countries2 and then the central basin is very dark again4 ,this opinion is not given with any degree of positiveness4 ,it is stated just as it struck my mind in passing across the country1 and if incorrect1 it is singular that the dialects spoken by the different tribes have arranged themselves in a fashion which seems to indicate migration along the lines of color4 ,the dialects spoken in the extreme south1 whether ,hottentot or ,caffre1 bear a close affinity to those of the tribes living immediately on their northern borders2 one glides into the other1 and their affinities are so easily detected that they are at once recognized to be cognate4 ,if the dialects of extreme points are compared1 as that of the ,caffres and the tribes near the equator1 it is more difficult to recognize the fact1 which is really the case1 that all the dialects belong to but two families of languages4 ,examination of the roots of the words of the dialects1 arranged in geographical order1 shows that they merge into each other1 and there is not nearly so much difference between the extremes of east and west as between those of north and south1 the dialect spoken at ,tete resembling closely that in ,angola4 ,having1 on the afore-mentioned date1 reached the village of ,njambi1 one of the chiefs of the ,chiboque1 we intended to pass a quiet ,sunday2 and our provisions being quite spent1 ,i ordered a tired riding-ox to be slaughtered4 ,as we wished to be on good terms with all1 we sent the hump and ribs to ,njambi1 with the explanation that this was the customary tribute to chiefs in the part from which we had come1 and that we always honored men in his position4 ,he returned thanks1 and promised to send food4 ,next morning he sent an impudent message1 with a very small present of meal2 scorning the meat he had accepted1 he demanded either a man1 an ox1 a gun1 powder1 cloth1 or a shell2 and in the event of refusal to comply with his demand1 he intimated his intention to prevent our further progress4 ,we replied1 we should have thought ourselves fools if we had scorned his small present1 and demanded other food instead2 and even supposing we had possessed the articles named1 no black man ought to impose a tribute on a party that did not trade in slaves4 ,the servants who brought the message said that1 when sent to the ,mambari1 they had always got a quantity of cloth from them for their master1 and now expected the same1 or something else as an equivalent1 from me4 ,we heard some of the ,chiboque remark1 ,they have only five guns2 and about midday1 ,njambi collected all his people1 and surrounded our encampment4 ,their object was evidently to plunder us of every thing4 ,my men seized their javelins1 and stood on the defensive1 while the young ,chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them with great fury4 ,some even pointed their guns at me1 and nodded to each other1 as much as to say1 ,this is the way we shall do with him4 ,i sat on my camp-stool1 with my double-barreled gun across my knees1 and invited the chief to be seated also4 ,when he and his counselors had sat down on the ground in front of me1 ,i asked what crime we had committed that he had come armed in that way4 ,he replied that one of my men1 ,pitsane1 while sitting at the fire that morning1 had1 in spitting1 allowed a small quantity of the saliva to fall on the leg of one of his men1 and this guilt he wanted to be settled by the fine of a man1 ox1 or gun4 ,pitsane admitted the fact of a little saliva having fallen on the ,chiboque1 and in proof of its being a pure accident1 mentioned that he had given the man a piece of meat1 by way of making friends1 just before it happened1 and wiped it off with his hand as soon as it fell4 ,in reference to a man being given1 ,i declared that we were all ready to die rather than give up one of our number to be a slave2 that my men might as well give me as ,i give one of them1 for we were all free men4 ,then you can give the gun with which the ox was shot4 ,as we heard some of his people remarking even now that we had only five guns1 we declined1 on the ground that1 as they were intent on plundering us1 giving a gun would be helping them to do so4 ,this they denied1 saying they wanted the customary tribute only4 ,i asked what right they had to demand payment for leave to tread on the ground of ,god1 our common ,father4 ,if we trod on their gardens1 we would pay1 but not for marching on land which was still ,god's1 and not theirs4 ,they did not attempt to controvert this1 because it is in accordance with their own ideas1 but reverted again to the pretended crime of the saliva4 ,my men now entreated me to give something2 and after asking the chief if he really thought the affair of the spitting a matter of guilt1 and receiving an answer in the affirmative1 ,i gave him one of my shirts4 ,the young ,chiboque were dissatisfied1 and began shouting and brandishing their swords for a greater fine4 ,as ,pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this disagreeable affair1 he asked me to add something else4 ,i gave a bunch of beads1 but the counselors objected this time1 so ,i added a large handkerchief4 ,the more ,i yielded1 the more unreasonable their demands became1 and at every fresh demand a shout was raised by the armed party1 and a rush made around us with brandishing of arms4 ,one young man made a charge at my head from behind1 but ,i quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth1 and he retreated4 ,i pointed him out to the chief1 and he ordered him to retire a little4 ,i felt anxious to avoid the effusion of blood2 and though sure of being able1 with my ,makololo1 who had been drilled by ,sebituane1 to drive off twice the number of our assailants1 though now a large body1 and well armed with spears1 swords1 arrows1 and guns1 ,i strove to avoid actual collision4 ,my men were quite unprepared for this exhibition1 but behaved with admirable coolness4 ,the chief and counselors1 by accepting my invitation to be seated1 had placed themselves in a trap1 for my men very quietly surrounded them1 and made them feel that there was no chance of escaping their spears4 ,i then said that1 as one thing after another had failed to satisfy them1 it was evident that ,,they wanted to fight1 while ,,we only wanted to pass peaceably through the country2 that they must begin first1 and bear the guilt before ,god3 we would not fight till they had struck the first blow4 ,i then sat silent for some time4 ,it was rather trying for me1 because ,i knew that the ,chiboque would aim at the white man first2 but ,i was careful not to appear flurried1 and1 having four barrels ready for instant action1 looked quietly at the savage scene around4 ,the ,chiboque countenance1 by no means handsome1 is not improved by the practice which they have adopted of filing the teeth to a point4 ,the chief and counselors1 seeing that they were in more danger than ,i1 did not choose to follow our decision that they should begin by striking the first blow1 and then see what we could do1 and were perhaps influenced by seeing the air of cool preparation which some of my men displayed at the prospect of a work of blood4 ,the ,chiboque at last put the matter before us in this way3 ,you come among us in a new way1 and say you are quite friendly3 how can we know it unless you give us some of your food1 and you take some of ours8 ,if you give us an ox1 we will give you whatever you may wish1 and then we shall be friends4 ,in accordance with the entreaties of my men1 ,i gave an ox2 and when asked what ,i should like in return1 mentioned food as the thing which we most needed4 ,in the evening ,njambi sent us a very small basket of meal1 and two or three pounds of the flesh of our own ox6 with the apology that he had no fowls1 and very little of any other food4 ,it was impossible to avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous creatures4 ,i was truly thankful1 nevertheless1 that1 though resolved to die rather than deliver up one of our number to be a slave1 we had so far gained our point as to be allowed to pass on without having shed human blood4 ,in the midst of the commotion1 several ,chiboque stole pieces of meat out of the sheds of my people1 and ,mohorisi1 one of the ,makololo1 went boldly into the crowd and took back a marrow-bone from one of them4 ,a few of my ,batoka seemed afraid1 and would perhaps have fled had the affray actually begun1 but1 upon the whole1 ,i thought my men behaved admirably4 ,they lamented having left their shields at home by command of ,sekeletu1 who feared that1 if they carried these1 they might be more disposed to be overbearing in their demeanor to the tribes we should meet4 ,we had proceeded on the principles of peace and conciliation1 and the foregoing treatment shows in what light our conduct was viewed2 in fact1 we were taken for interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of the tribe4 ,they had been accustomed to get a slave or two from every slave-trader who passed them1 and now that we disputed the right1 they viewed the infringement on what they considered lawfully due with most virtuous indignation4 ,,march #f,,th4 ,we were informed that the people on the west of the ,chiboque of ,njambi were familiar with the visits of slave-traders2 and it was the opinion of our guides from ,kangenke that so many of my companions would be demanded from me1 in the same manner as the people of ,njambi had done1 that ,i should reach the coast without a single attendant2 ,i therefore resolved to alter our course and strike away to the ,n4,n4,e41 in the hope that at some point farther north ,i might find an exit to the ,portuguese settlement of ,cassange4 ,we proceeded at first due north1 with the ,kasabi villages on our right1 and the ,kasau on our left4 ,during the first twenty miles we crossed many small1 but now swollen streams1 having the usual boggy banks1 and wherever the water had stood for any length of time it was discolored with rust of iron4 ,we saw a nakong antelope one day1 a rare sight in this quarter2 and many new and pretty flowers adorned the valleys4 ,we could observe the difference in the seasons in our northing in company with the sun4 ,summer was now nearly over at ,kuruman1 and far advanced at ,linyanti1 but here we were in the middle of it2 fruits1 which we had eaten ripe on the ,leeambye1 were here quite green2 but we were coming into the region where the inhabitants are favored with two rainy seasons and two crops1 i4e41 when the sun is going south1 and when he comes back on his way to the north1 as was the case at present4 ,on the #hth1 one of the men had left an ounce or two of powder at our sleeping-place1 and went back several miles for it4 ,my clothing being wet from crossing a stream1 ,i was compelled to wait for him2 had ,i been moving in the sun ,i should have felt no harm1 but the inaction led to a violent fit of fever4 ,the continuance of this attack was a source of much regret1 for we went on next day to a small rivulet called ,chihune1 in a lovely valley1 and had1 for a wonder1 a clear sky and a clear moon2 but such was the confusion produced in my mind by the state of my body1 that ,i could scarcely manage1 after some hours' trial1 to get a lunar observation in which ,i could repose confidence4 ,the ,chihune flows into the ,longe1 and that into the ,chihombo1 a feeder of the ,kasai4 ,those who know the difficulties of taking altitudes1 times1 and distances1 and committing all of them to paper1 will sympathize with me in this and many similar instances4 ,while at ,chihune1 the men of a village brought wax for sale1 and1 on finding that we wished honey1 went off and soon brought a hive4 ,all the bees in the country are in possession of the natives1 for they place hives sufficient for them all4 ,after having ascertained this1 we never attended the call of the honey-guide1 for we were sure it would only lead us to a hive which we had no right to touch4 ,the bird continues its habit of inviting attention to the honey1 though its services in this district are never actually needed4 ,my ,makololo lamented that they never knew before that wax could be sold for any thing of value4 ,as we traverse a succession of open lawns and deep forests1 it is interesting to observe something like instinct developed even in trees4 ,one which1 when cut1 emits a milky juice1 if met with on the open lawns1 grows as an ordinary umbrageous tree1 and shows no disposition to be a climber2 when planted in a forest it still takes the same form1 then sends out a climbing branch1 which twines round another tree until it rises thirty or forty feet1 or to the level of the other trees1 and there spreads out a second crown where it can enjoy a fair share of the sun's rays4 ,in parts of the forest still more dense than this1 it assumes the form of a climber only1 and at once avails itself of the assistance of a tall neighbor by winding vigorously round it1 without attempting to form a lower head4 ,it does not succeed so well as parasites proper1 but where forced to contend for space it may be mistaken for one which is invariably a climber4 ,the paths here were very narrow and very much encumbered with gigantic creepers1 often as thick as a man's leg4 ,there must be some reason why they prefer1 in some districts1 to go up trees in the common form of the thread of a screw rather than in any other4 ,on the one bank of the ,chihune they appeared to a person standing opposite them to wind up from left to right1 on the other bank from right to left4 ,i imagined this was owing to the sun being at one season of the year on their north and at another on their south4 ,but on the ,leeambye ,i observed creepers winding up on opposite sides of the same reed1 and making a figure like the lacings of a sandal4 ,in passing through these narrow paths ,i had an opportunity of observing the peculiarities of my ox ,sinbad4 ,he had a softer back than the others1 but a much more intractable temper4 ,his horns were bent downward and hung loosely1 so he could do no harm with them2 but as we wended our way slowly along the narrow path1 he would suddenly dart aside4 ,a string tied to a stick put through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of a bridle3 if you jerk this back1 it makes him run faster on2 if you pull it to one side1 he allows the nose and head to go1 but keeps the opposite eye directed to the forbidden spot1 and goes in spite of you4 ,the only way he can be brought to a stand is by a stroke with a wand across the nose4 ,when ,sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the path so low that ,i could not stoop under it1 ,i was dragged off and came down on the crown of my head2 and he never allowed an opportunity of the kind to pass without trying to inflict a kick1 as if ,i neither had nor deserved his love4 ,a remarkable peculiarity in the forests of this country is the absence of thorns3 there are but two exceptions2 one a tree bearing a species of 'nux vomica'1 and a small shrub very like the plant of the sarsaparilla1 bearing1 in addition to its hooked thorns1 bunches of yellow berries4 ,the thornlessness of the vegetation is especially noticeable to those who have been in the south1 where there is so great a variety of thorn-bearing plants and trees4 ,we have thorns of every size and shape2 thorns straight1 thin and long1 short and thick1 or hooked1 and so strong as to be able to cut even leather like a knife4 ,seed-vessels are scattered every where by these appendages4 ,one lies flat as a shilling with two thorns in its centre1 ready to run into the foot of any animal that treads upon it1 and stick there for days together4 ,another 7the ',uncaria procumbens'1 or ,grapple-plant7 has so many hooked thorns as to cling most tenaciously to any animal to which it may become attached2 when it happens to lay hold of the mouth of an ox1 the animal stands and roars with pain and a sense of helplessness4 ,whenever a part of the forest has been cleared for a garden1 and afterward abandoned1 a species of plant1 with leaves like those of ginger1 springs up1 and contends for the possession of the soil with a great crop of ferns4 ,this is the case all the way down to ,angola1 and shows the great difference of climate between this and the ,bechuana country1 where a fern1 except one or two hardy species1 is never seen4 ,the plants above mentioned bear a pretty pink flower close to the ground1 which is succeeded by a scarlet fruit full of seeds1 yielding1 as so many fruits in this country do1 a pleasant acid juice1 which1 like the rest1 is probably intended as a corrective to the fluids of the system in the hot climate4 ,on leaving the ,chihune we crossed the ,longe1 and1 as the day was cloudy1 our guides wandered in a forest away to the west till we came to the ,river ,chihombo1 flowing to the ,e4,n4,e4 ,my men depended so much on the sun for guidance that1 having seen nothing of the luminary all day1 they thought we had wandered back to the ,chiboque1 and1 as often happens when bewildered1 they disputed as to the point where the sun should rise next morning4 ,as soon as the rains would allow next day1 we went off to the ,n4,e4 ,it would have been better to have traveled by compass alone1 for the guides took advantage of any fears expressed by my people1 and threatened to return if presents were not made at once4 ,but my men had never left their own country before except for rapine and murder4 ,when they formerly came to a village they were in the habit of killing numbers of the inhabitants1 and then taking a few young men to serve as guides to the next place4 ,as this was their first attempt at an opposite line of conduct1 and as they were without their shields1 they felt defenseless among the greedy ,chiboque1 and some allowance must be made for them on that account4 ,,saturday1 #aa,,th4 ,reached a small village on the banks of a narrow stream4 ,i was too ill to go out of my little covering except to quell a mutiny which began to show itself among some of the ,batoka and ,ambonda of our party4 ,they grumbled1 as they often do against their chiefs1 when they think them partial in their gifts1 because they supposed that ,i had shown a preference in the distribution of the beads2 but the beads ,i had given to my principal men were only sufficient to purchase a scanty meal1 and ,i had hastened on to this village in order to slaughter a tired ox1 and give them all a feast as well as a rest on ,sunday1 as preparation for the journey before us4 ,i explained this to them1 and thought their grumbling was allayed4 ,i soon sank into a state of stupor1 which the fever sometimes produced1 and was oblivious to all their noise in slaughtering4 ,on ,sunday the mutineers were making a terrible din in preparing a skin they had procured4 ,i requested them twice1 by the man who attended me1 to be more quiet1 as the noise pained me2 but as they paid no attention to this civil request1 ,i put out my head1 and1 repeating it myself1 was answered by an impudent laugh4 ,knowing that discipline would be at an end if this mutiny were not quelled1 and that our lives depended on vigorously upholding authority1 ,i seized a double-barreled pistol1 and darted forth from the domicile1 looking1 ,i suppose1 so savage as to put them to a precipitate flight4 ,as some remained within hearing1 ,i told them that ,i must maintain discipline1 though at the expense of some of their limbs2 so long as we traveled together they must remember that ,i was master1 and not they4 ,there being but little room to doubt my determination1 they immediately became very obedient1 and never afterward gave me any trouble1 or imagined that they had any right to my property4 #ac,,th4 ,we went forward some miles1 but were brought to a stand by the severity of my fever on the banks of a branch of the ,loajima1 another tributary of the ,kasai4 ,i was in a state of partial coma until late at night1 when it became necessary for me to go out2 and ,i was surprised to find that my men had built a little stockade1 and some of them took their spears and acted as a guard4 ,i found that we were surrounded by enemies1 and a party of ,chiboque lay near the gateway1 after having preferred the demand of a man1 an ox1 a gun1 or a tusk4 ,my men had prepared for defense in case of a night attack1 and when the ,chiboque wished to be shown where ,i lay sick1 they very properly refused to point me out4 ,in the morning ,i went out to the ,chiboque1 and found that they answered me civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country1 teaching them1 etc41 etc4 ,they admitted that their chiefs would be pleased with the prospect of friendship1 and now only wished to exchange tokens of good-will with me1 and offered three pigs1 which they hoped ,i would accept4 ,the people here are in the habit of making a present1 and then demanding whatever they choose in return4 ,we had been forewarned of this by our guides1 so ,i tried to decline1 by asking if they would eat one of the pigs in company with us4 ,to this proposition they said that they durst not accede4 ,i then accepted the present in the hope that the blame of deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me1 and presented a razor1 two bunches of beads1 and twelve copper rings1 contributed by my men from their arms4 ,they went off to report to their chief2 and as ,i was quite unable to move from excessive giddiness1 we continued in the same spot on ,tuesday evening1 when they returned with a message couched in very plain terms1 that a man1 tusk1 gun1 or even an ox1 alone would be acceptable2 that he had every thing else in his possession but oxen1 and that1 whatever ,i should please to demand from him1 he would gladly give it4 ,as this was all said civilly1 and there was no help for it if we refused but bloodshed1 ,i gave a tired riding-ox4 ,my late chief mutineer1 an ,ambonda man1 was now over-loyal1 for he armed himself and stood at the gateway4 ,he would rather die than see his father imposed on2 but ,i ordered ,mosantu to take him out of the way1 which he did promptly1 and allowed the ,chiboque to march off well pleased with their booty4 ,i told my men that ,i esteemed one of their lives of more value than all the oxen we had1 and that the only cause which could induce me to fight would be to save the lives and liberties of the majority4 ,in the propriety of this they all agreed1 and said that1 if the ,chiboque molested us who behaved so peaceably1 the guilt would be on their heads4 ,this is a favorite mode of expression throughout the whole country4 ,all are anxious to give explanation of any acts they have performed1 and conclude the narration with1 ,i have no guilt or blame 7molatu74 ,they have the guilt4 ,i never could be positive whether the idea in their minds is guilt in the sight of the ,deity1 or of mankind only4 ,next morning the robber party came with about thirty yards of strong striped ,english calico1 an axe1 and two hoes for our acceptance1 and returned the copper rings1 as the chief was a great man1 and did not need the ornaments of my men1 but we noticed that they were taken back again4 ,i divided the cloth among my men1 and pleased them a little by thus compensating for the loss of the ox4 ,i advised the chief1 whose name we did not learn1 as he did not deign to appear except under the alias ,matiamvo1 to get cattle for his own use1 and expressed sorrow that ,i had none wherewith to enable him to make a commencement4 ,rains prevented our proceeding till ,thursday morning1 and then messengers appeared to tell us that their chief had learned that all the cloth sent by him had not been presented2 that the copper rings had been secreted by the persons ordered to restore them to us1 and that he had stripped the thievish emissaries of their property as a punishment4 ,our guides thought these were only spies of a larger party1 concealed in the forest through which we were now about to pass4 ,we prepared for defense by marching in a compact body1 and allowing no one to straggle far behind the others4 ,we marched through many miles of gloomy forest in gloomier silence1 but nothing disturbed us4 ,we came to a village1 and found all the men absent1 the guides thought1 in the forest1 with their countrymen4 ,i was too ill to care much whether we were attacked or not4 ,though a pouring rain came on1 as we were all anxious to get away out of a bad neighborhood1 we proceeded4 ,the thick atmosphere prevented my seeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them2 so ,pitsane1 ,mohorisi1 and ,i1 who alone were mounted1 were often caught2 and as there is no stopping the oxen when they have the prospect of giving the rider a tumble1 we came frequently to the ground4 ,in addition to these mishaps1 ,sinbad went off at a plunging gallop1 the bridle broke1 and ,i came down backward on the crown of my head4 ,he gave me a kick on the thigh at the same time4 ,i felt none the worse for this rough treatment1 but would not recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever6 ,this last attack of fever was so obstinate that it reduced me almost to a skeleton4 ,the blanket which ,i used as a saddle on the back of the ox1 being frequently wet1 remained so beneath me even in the hot sun1 and1 aided by the heat of the ox1 caused extensive abrasion of the skin1 which was continually healing and getting sore again4 ,to this inconvenience was now added the chafing of my projecting bones on the hard bed4 ,on ,friday we came to a village of civil people on the banks of the ,loajima itself1 and we were wet all day in consequence of crossing it4 ,the bridges over it1 and another stream which we crossed at midday1 were submerged1 as we have hitherto invariably found1 by a flood of perfectly clear water4 ,at the second ford we were met by a hostile party who refused us further passage4 ,i ordered my men to proceed in the same direction we had been pursuing1 but our enemies spread themselves out in front of us with loud cries4 ,our numbers were about equal to theirs this time1 so ,i moved on at the head of my men4 ,some ran off to other villages1 or back to their own village1 on pretense of getting ammunition2 others called out that all traders came to them1 and that we must do the same4 ,as these people had plenty of iron-headed arrows and some guns1 when we came to the edge of the forest ,i ordered my men to put the luggage in our centre2 and1 if our enemies did not fire1 to cut down some young trees and make a screen as quickly as possible1 but do nothing to them except in case of actual attack4 ,i then dismounted1 and1 advancing a little toward our principal opponent1 showed him how easily ,i could kill him1 but pointed upward1 saying1 ,i fear ,god4 ,he did the same1 placing his hand on his heart1 pointing upward1 and saying1 ,i fear to kill2 but come to our village2 come--do come4 ,at this juncture1 the old head man1 ,ionga ,panza1 a venerable negro1 came up1 and ,i invited him and all to be seated1 that we might talk the matter over4 ,ionga ,panza soon let us know that he thought himself very ill treated in being passed by4 ,as most skirmishes arise from misunderstanding1 this might have been a serious one2 for1 like all the tribes near the ,portuguese settlements1 people here imagine that they have a right to demand payment from every one who passes through the country2 and now1 though ,ionga ,panza was certainly no match for my men1 yet they were determined not to forego their right without a struggle4 ,i removed with my men to the vicinity of the village1 thankful that no accident had as yet brought us into actual collision4 ,the reason why the people have imbibed the idea so strongly that they have a right to demand payment for leave to pass through the country is probably this4 ,they have seen no traders except those either engaged in purchasing slaves1 or who have slaves in their employment4 ,these slave-traders have always been very much at the mercy of the chiefs through whose country they have passed2 for if they afforded a ready asylum for runaway slaves1 the traders might be deserted at any moment1 and stripped of their property altogether4 ,they are thus obliged to curry favor with the chiefs1 so as to get a safe conduct from them4 ,the same system is adopted to induce the chiefs to part with their people1 whom all feel to be the real source of their importance in the country4 ,on the return of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves1 it is so easy for a chief who may be so disposed to take away a chain of eight or ten unresisting slaves1 that the merchant is fain to give any amount of presents in order to secure the good-will of the rulers4 ,the independent chiefs1 not knowing why their favor is so eagerly sought1 become excessively proud and supercilious in their demands1 and look upon white men with the greatest contempt4 ,to such lengths did the ,bangala1 a tribe near to which we had now approached1 proceed a few years ago1 that they compelled the ,portuguese traders to pay for water1 wood1 and even grass1 and every possible pretext was invented for levying fines2 and these were patiently submitted to so long as the slave-trade continued to flourish4 ,we had unconsciously come in contact with a system which was quite unknown in the country from which my men had set out4 ,an ,english trader may there hear a demand for payment of guides1 but never1 so far as ,i am aware1 is he asked to pay for leave to traverse a country4 ,the idea does not seem to have entered the native mind1 except through slave-traders1 for the aborigines all acknowledge that the untilled land1 not needed for pasturage1 belongs to ,god alone1 and that no harm is done by people passing through it4 ,i rather believe that1 wherever the slave-trade has not penetrated1 the visits of strangers are esteemed a real privilege4 ,the village of old ,ionga ,panza 7lat4 #aj;d #be' ,s41 long4 #bj;d #ae' ,e47 is small1 and embowered in lofty evergreen trees1 which were hung around with fine festoons of creepers4 ,he sent us food immediately1 and soon afterward a goat1 which was considered a handsome gift1 there being but few domestic animals1 though the country is well adapted for them4 ,i suspect this1 like the country of ,shinte and ,katema1 must have been a tsetse district1 and only recently rendered capable of supporting other domestic animals besides the goat1 by the destruction of the game through the extensive introduction of fire-arms4 ,we might all have been as ignorant of the existence of this insect plague as the ,portuguese1 had it not been for the numerous migrations of pastoral tribes which took place in the south in consequence of ,zulu irruptions4 ,during these exciting scenes ,i always forgot my fever1 but a terrible sense of sinking came back with the feeling of safety4 ,the same demand of payment for leave to pass was made on the #bjth by old ,ionga ,panza as by the other ,chiboque4 ,i offered the shell presented by ,shinte1 but ,ionga ,panza said he was too old for ornaments4 ,we might have succeeded very well with him1 for he was by no means unreasonable1 and had but a very small village of supporters2 but our two guides from ,kangenke complicated our difficulties by sending for a body of ,bangala traders1 with a view to force us to sell the tusks of ,sekeletu1 and pay them with the price4 ,we offered to pay them handsomely if they would perform their promise of guiding us to ,cassange1 but they knew no more of the paths than we did2 and my men had paid them repeatedly1 and tried to get rid of them1 but could not4 ,they now joined with our enemies1 and so did the traders4 ,two guns and some beads belonging to the latter were standing in our encampment1 and the guides seized them and ran off4 ,as my men knew that we should be called upon to replace them1 they gave chase1 and when the guides saw that they would be caught1 they threw down the guns1 directed their flight to the village1 and rushed into a hut4 ,the doorway is not much higher than that of a dog's kennel4 ,one of the guides was reached by one of my men as he was in the act of stooping to get in1 and a cut was inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have made any one in that posture wince4 ,the guns were restored1 but the beads were lost in the flight4 ,all ,i had remaining of my stock of beads could not replace those lost2 and though we explained that we had no part in the guilt of the act1 the traders replied that we had brought the thieves into the country2 these were of the ,bangala1 who had been accustomed to plague the ,portuguese in the most vexatious way4 ,we were striving to get a passage through the country1 and1 feeling anxious that no crime whatever should be laid to our charge1 tried the conciliatory plan here1 though we were not1 as in the other instances1 likely to be overpowered by numbers4 ,my men offered all their ornaments1 and ,i offered all my beads and shirts2 but1 though we had come to the village against our will1 and the guides had also followed us contrary to our desire1 and had even sent for the ,bangala traders without our knowledge or consent1 yet matters could not be arranged without our giving an ox and one of the tusks4 ,we were all becoming disheartened1 and could not wonder that native expeditions from the interior to the coast had generally failed to reach their destinations4 ,my people were now so much discouraged that some proposed to return home2 the prospect of being obliged to return when just on the threshold of the ,portuguese settlements distressed me exceedingly4 ,after using all my powers of persuasion1 ,i declared to them that if they returned ,i would go on alone1 and went into my little tent with the mind directed to ,him who hears the sighing of the soul1 and was soon followed by the head of ,mohorisi1 saying1 ,we will never leave you4 ,do not be disheartened4 ,wherever you lead we will follow4 ,our remarks were made only on account of the injustice of these people4 ,others followed1 and with the most artless simplicity of manner told me to be comforted--they were all my children2 they knew no one but ,sekeletu and me1 and they would die for me2 they had not fought because ,i did not wish it2 they had just spoken in the bitterness of their spirit1 and when feeling that they could do nothing2 but if these enemies begin you will see what we can do4 ,one of the oxen we offered to the ,chiboque had been rejected because he had lost part of his tail1 as they thought that it had been cut off and witchcraft medicine inserted2 and some mirth was excited by my proposing to raise a similar objection to all the oxen we still had in our possession4 ,the remaining four soon presented a singular shortness of their caudal extremities1 and though no one ever asked whether they had medicine in the stumps or no1 we were no more troubled by the demand for an ox6 ,we now slaughtered another ox1 that the spectacle might not be seen of the owners of the cattle fasting while the ,chiboque were feasting4 ,chapter #ai4 ,guides prepaid--,bark ,canoes--,deserted by ,guides--,mistakes respecting the ,coanza--,feelings of freed ,slaves--,gardens and ,villages--,native ,traders--,a ,grave--,valley of the ,quango--,bamboo--,white ,larvae used as ,food--,bashinje ,insolence--,a posing ,question--,the ,chief ,sansawe--,his ,hostility--,pass him safely--,the ,river ,quango--,chief's mode of dressing his ,hair--,opposition--,opportune ,aid by ,cypriano--,his generous ,hospitality--,ability of ,half-castes to read and write--,books and ,images--,marauding ,party burned in the ,grass--,arrive at ,cassange--,a good ,supper--,kindness of ,captain ,neves--,portuguese ,curiosity and ,questions-- ,anniversary of the ,resurrection--,no ,prejudice against ,color--,country around ,cassange--,sell ,sekeletu's ,ivory--,makololo's ,surprise at the high ,price obtained--,proposal to return ,home1 and ,reasons-- ,soldier-guide--,hill ,kasala--,tala ,mungongo1 ,village of--,civility of ,basongo--,true ,negroes--,a ,field of ,wheat-- ,carriers--,sleeping-places--,fever--,en ter ,district of ,ambaca--,good ,fruits of ,jesuit ,teaching--,the ',tampan'2 its ,bite--,universal ,hospitality of the ,portuguese--,a ,tale of the ,mambari--,exhilarating ,effects of ,highland ,scenery--,district of ,golungo ,alto--,want of good ,roads--,fertility--,forests of gigantic ,timber--,native ,carpenters--,coffee ,estate--,sterility of ,country near the ,coast--,mosquitoes--,fears of the ,makololo--,welcome by ,mr4 ,gabriel to ,loanda4 #bd,,th4 ,ionga ,panza's sons agreed to act as guides into the territory of the ,portuguese if ,i would give them the shell given by ,shinte4 ,i was strongly averse to this1 and especially to give it beforehand1 but yielded to the entreaty of my people to appear as if showing confidence in these hopeful youths4 ,they urged that they wished to leave the shell with their wives1 as a sort of payment to them for enduring their husbands' absence so long4 ,having delivered the precious shell1 we went west-by-north to the ,river ,chikapa1 which here 7lat4 #aj;d #bb' ,s47 is forty or fifty yards wide1 and at present was deep2 it was seen flowing over a rocky1 broken cataract with great noise about half a mile above our ford4 ,we were ferried over in a canoe1 made out of a single piece of bark sewed together at the ends1 and having sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs4 ,the word ,chikapa means bark or skin2 and as this is the only river in which we saw this kind of canoe used1 and we heard that this stream is so low during most of the year as to be easily fordable1 it probably derives its name from the use made of the bark canoes when it is in flood4 ,we now felt the loss of our pontoon1 for the people to whom the canoe belonged made us pay once when we began to cross1 then a second time when half of us were over1 and a third time when all were over but my principal man ,pitsane and myself4 ,loyanke took off his cloth and paid my passage with it4 ,the ,makololo always ferried their visitors over rivers without pay1 and now began to remark that they must in future fleece the ,mambari as these ,chiboque had done to us2 they had all been loud in condemnation of the meanness1 and when ,i asked if they could descend to be equally mean1 ,i was answered that they would only do it in revenge4 ,they like to have a plausible excuse for meanness4 ,next morning our guides went only about a mile1 and then told us they would return home4 ,i expected this when paying them beforehand1 in accordance with the entreaties of the ,makololo1 who are rather ignorant of the world4 ,very energetic remonstrances were addressed to the guides1 but they slipped off one by one in the thick forest through which we were passing1 and ,i was glad to hear my companions coming to the conclusion that1 as we were now in parts visited by traders1 we did not require the guides1 whose chief use had been to prevent misapprehension of our objects in the minds of the villagers4 ,the country was somewhat more undulating now than it had been1 and several fine small streams flowed in deep woody dells4 ,the trees are very tall and straight1 and the forests gloomy and damp2 the ground in these solitudes is quite covered with yellow and brown mosses1 and light-colored lichens clothe all the trees4 ,the soil is extremely fertile1 being generally a black loam covered with a thick crop of tall grasses4 ,we passed several villages too4 ,the head man of a large one scolded us well for passing1 when he intended to give us food4 ,where slave-traders have been in the habit of coming1 they present food1 then demand three or four times its value as a custom4 ,we were now rather glad to get past villages without intercourse with the inhabitants4 ,we were traveling ,w4,n4,w41 and all the rivulets we here crossed had a northerly course1 and were reported to fall into the ,kasai or ,loke2 most of them had the peculiar boggy banks of the country4 ,as we were now in the alleged latitude of the ,coanza1 ,i was much astonished at the entire absence of any knowledge of that river among the natives of this quarter4 ,but ,i was then ignorant of the fact that the ,coanza rises considerably to the west of this1 and has a comparatively short course from its source to the sea4 ,the famous ,dr4 ,lacerda seems to have labored under the same mistake as myself1 for he recommended the government of ,angola to establish a chain of forts along the banks of that river1 with a view to communication with the opposite coast4 ,as a chain of forts along its course would lead southward instead of eastward1 we may infer that the geographical data within reach of that eminent man were no better than those according to which ,i had directed my course to the ,coanza where it does not exist4 #bf,,th4 ,we spent ,sunday on the banks of the ,quilo or ,kweelo1 here a stream of about ten yards wide4 ,it runs in a deep glen1 the sides of which are almost five hundred yards of slope1 and rocky1 the rocks being hardened calcareous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below1 with a capping of ferruginous conglomerate4 ,the scenery would have been very pleasing1 but fever took away much of the joy of life1 and severe daily intermittents rendered me very weak and always glad to recline4 ,as we were now in the slave-market1 it struck me that the sense of insecurity felt by the natives might account for the circumstance that those who have been sold as slaves and freed again1 when questioned1 profess to like the new state better than their primitive one4 ,they lived on rich1 fertile plains1 which seldom inspire that love of country which the mountains do4 ,if they had been mountaineers1 they would have pined for home4 ,to one who has observed the hard toil of the poor in old civilized countries1 the state in which the inhabitants here live is one of glorious ease4 ,the country is full of little villages4 ,food abounds1 and very little labor is required for its cultivation2 the soil is so rich that no manure is required2 when a garden becomes too poor for good crops of maize1 millet1 etc41 the owner removes a little farther into the forest1 applies fire round the roots of the larger trees to kill them1 cuts down the smaller1 and a new1 rich garden is ready for the seed4 ,the gardens usually present the appearance of a large number of tall1 dead trees standing without bark1 and maize growing between them4 ,the old gardens continue to yield manioc for years after the owners have removed to other spots for the sake of millet and maize4 ,but1 while vegetable aliment is abundant1 there is a want of salt and animal food1 so that numberless traps are seen1 set for mice1 in all the forests of ,londa4 ,the vegetable diet leaves great craving for flesh1 and ,i have no doubt but that1 when an ordinary quantity of mixed food is supplied to freed slaves1 they actually do feel more comfortable than they did at home4 ,their assertions1 however1 mean but little1 for they always try to give an answer to please1 and if one showed them a nugget of gold1 they would generally say that these abounded in their country4 ,one could detect1 in passing1 the variety of character found among the owners of gardens and villages4 ,some villages were the pictures of neatness4 ,we entered others enveloped in a wilderness of weeds1 so high that1 when sitting on ox-back in the middle of the village1 we could only see the tops of the huts4 ,if we entered at midday1 the owners would come lazily forth1 pipe in hand1 and leisurely puff away in dreamy indifference4 ,in some villages weeds are not allowed to grow2 cotton1 tobacco1 and different plants used as relishes are planted round the huts2 fowls are kept in cages1 and the gardens present the pleasant spectacle of different kinds of grain and pulse at various periods of their growth4 ,i sometimes admired the one class1 and at times wished ,i could have taken the world easy for a time like the other4 ,every village swarms with children1 who turn out to see the white man pass1 and run along with strange cries and antics2 some run up trees to get a good view3 all are agile climbers throughout ,londa4 ,at friendly villages they have scampered alongside our party for miles at a time4 ,we usually made a little hedge around our sheds2 crowds of women came to the entrance of it1 with children on their backs1 and long pipes in their mouths1 gazing at us for hours4 ,the men1 rather than disturb them1 crawled through a hole in the hedge1 and it was common to hear a man in running off say to them1 ,i am going to tell my mamma to come and see the white man's oxen4 ,in continuing our ,w4,n4,w4 course1 we met many parties of native traders1 each carrying some pieces of cloth and salt1 with a few beads to barter for bees'-wax4 ,they are all armed with ,portuguese guns1 and have cartridges with iron balls4 ,when we meet we usually stand a few minutes4 ,they present a little salt1 and we give a bit of ox-hide1 or some other trifle1 and then part with mutual good wishes4 ,the hide of the oxen we slaughtered had been a valuable addition to our resources1 for we found it in so great repute for girdles all through ,loanda that we cut up every skin into strips about two inches broad1 and sold them for meal and manioc as we went along4 ,as we came nearer ,angola we found them of less value1 as the people there possess cattle themselves4 ,the village on the ,kweelo1 at which we spent ,sunday1 was that of a civil1 lively old man1 called ,sakandala1 who offered no objections to our progress4 ,we found we should soon enter on the territory of the ,bashinje 7,chinge of the ,portuguese71 who are mixed with another tribe1 named ,bangala1 which have been at war with the ,babindele or ,portuguese4 ,rains and fever1 as usual1 helped to impede our progress until we were put on the path which leads from ,cassange and ,bihe to ,matiamvo1 by a head man named ,kamboela4 ,this was a well-beaten footpath1 and soon after entering upon it we met a party of half-caste traders from ,bihe1 who confirmed the information we had already got of this path leading straight to ,cassange1 through which they had come on their way from ,bihe to ,cabango4 ,they kindly presented my men with some tobacco1 and marveled greatly when they found that ,i had never been able to teach myself to smoke4 ,on parting with them we came to a trader's grave4 ,this was marked by a huge cone of sticks placed in the form of the roof of a hut1 with a palisade around it4 ,at an opening on the western side an ugly idol was placed3 several strings of beads and bits of cloth were hung around4 ,we learned that he had been a half-caste1 who had died on his way back from ,matiamvo4 ,as we were now alone1 and sure of being on the way to the abodes of civilization1 we went on briskly4 ,on the #cjth we came to a sudden descent from the high land1 indented by deep1 narrow valleys1 over which we had lately been traveling4 ,it is generally so steep that it can only be descended at particular points1 and even there ,i was obliged to dismount1 though so weak that ,i had to be led by my companions to prevent my toppling over in walking down4 ,it was annoying to feel myself so helpless1 for ,i never liked to see a man1 either sick or well1 giving in effeminately4 ,below us lay the valley of the ,quango4 ,if you sit on the spot where ,mary ,queen of ,scots viewed the battle of ,langside1 and look down on the vale of ,clyde1 you may see in miniature the glorious sight which a much greater and richer valley presented to our view4 ,it is about a hundred miles broad1 clothed with dark forest1 except where the light green grass covers meadow-lands on the ,quango1 which here and there glances out in the sun as it wends its way to the north4 ,the opposite side of this great valley appears like a range of lofty mountains1 and the descent into it about a mile1 which1 measured perpendicularly1 may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet4 ,emerging from the gloomy forests of ,londa1 this magnificent prospect made us all feel as if a weight had been lifted off our eyelids4 ,a cloud was passing across the middle of the valley1 from which rolling thunder pealed1 while above all was glorious sunlight2 and when we went down to the part where we saw it passing1 we found that a very heavy thunder-shower had fallen under the path of the cloud2 and the bottom of the valley1 which from above seemed quite smooth1 we discovered to be intersected and furrowed by great numbers of deep-cut streams4 ,looking back from below1 the descent appears as the edge of a table-land1 with numerous indented dells and spurs jutting out all along1 giving it a serrated appearance4 ,both the top and sides of the sierra are covered with trees1 but large patches of the more perpendicular parts are bare1 and exhibit the red soil1 which is general over the region we have now entered4 ,the hollow affords a section of this part of the country2 and we find that the uppermost stratum is the ferruginous conglomerate already mentioned4 ,the matrix is rust of iron 7or hydrous peroxide of iron and hematite71 and in it are imbedded water-worn pebbles of sandstone and quartz4 ,as this is the rock underlying the soil of a large part of ,londa1 its formation must have preceded the work of denudation by an arm of the sea1 which washed away the enormous mass of matter required before the valley of ,cassange could assume its present form4 ,the strata under the conglomerate are all of red clay shale of different degrees of hardness1 the most indurated being at the bottom4 ,this red clay shale is named keele in ,scotland1 and has always been considered as an indication of gold2 but the only thing we discovered was that it had given rise to a very slippery clay soil1 so different from that which we had just left that ,mashauana1 who always prided himself on being an adept at balancing himself in the canoe on water1 and so sure of foot on land that he could afford to express contempt for any one less gifted1 came down in a very sudden and undignified manner1 to the delight of all whom he had previously scolded for falling4 ,here we met with the bamboo as thick as a man's arm1 and many new trees4 ,others1 which we had lost sight of since leaving ,shinte1 now reappeared2 but nothing struck us more than the comparative scragginess of the trees in this hollow4 ,those on the high lands we had left were tall and straight2 here they were stunted1 and not by any means so closely planted together4 ,the only way ,i could account for this was by supposing1 as the trees were of different species1 that the greater altitude suited the nature of those above better than the lower altitude did the other species below4 ,,sunday1 ,,april #b;,d4 ,we rested beside a small stream1 and our hunger being now very severe1 from having lived on manioc alone since leaving ,ionza ,panza's1 we slaughtered one of our four remaining oxen4 ,the people of this district seem to feel the craving for animal food as much as we did1 for they spend much energy in digging large white larvae out of the damp soil adjacent to their streams1 and use them as a relish to their vegetable diet4 ,the ,bashinje refused to sell any food for the poor old ornaments my men had now to offer4 ,we could get neither meal nor manioc1 but should have been comfortable had not the ,bashinje chief ,sansawe pestered us for the customary present4 ,the native traders informed us that a display of force was often necessary before they could pass this man4 ,sansawe1 the chief of a portion of the ,bashinje1 having sent the usual formal demand for a man1 an ox1 or a tusk1 spoke very contemptuously of the poor things we offered him instead4 ,we told his messengers that the tusks were ,sekeletu's3 every thing was gone except my instruments1 which could be of no use to them whatever4 ,one of them begged some meat1 and1 when it was refused1 said to my men1 ,you may as well give it1 for we shall take all after we have killed you to-morrow4 ,the more humbly we spoke1 the more insolent the ,bashinje became1 till at last we were all feeling savage and sulky1 but continued to speak as civilly as we could4 ,they are fond of argument1 and when ,i denied their right to demand tribute from a white man1 who did not trade in slaves1 an old white-headed negro put rather a posing question3 ,you know that ,god has placed chiefs among us whom we ought to support4 ,how is it that you1 who have a book that tells you about him1 do not come forward at once to pay this chief tribute like every one else8 ,i replied by asking1 ,how could ,i know that this was a chief1 who had allowed me to remain a day and a half near him without giving me any thing to eat8 ,this1 which to the uninitiated may seem sophistry1 was to the ,central ,africans quite a rational question1 for he at once admitted that food ought to have been sent1 and added that probably his chief was only making it ready for me1 and that it would come soon4 ,after being wearied by talking all day to different parties sent by ,sansawe1 we were honored by a visit from himself3 he is quite a young man1 and of rather a pleasing countenance4 ,there can not have been much intercourse between real ,portuguese and these people even here1 so close to the ,quango1 for ,sansawe asked me to show him my hair1 on the ground that1 though he had heard of it1 and some white men had even passed through his country1 he had never seen straight hair before4 ,this is quite possible1 as most of the slave-traders are not ,portuguese1 but half-castes4 ,the difference between their wool and our hair caused him to burst into a laugh1 and the contrast between the exposed and unexposed parts of my skin1 when exhibited in evidence of our all being made of one stock originally1 and the children of one ,maker1 seemed to strike him with wonder4 ,i then showed him my watch1 and wished to win my way into his confidence by conversation2 but1 when about to exhibit my pocket compass1 he desired me to desist1 as he was afraid of my wonderful things4 ,i told him1 if he knew my aims as the tribes in the interior did1 and as ,i hoped he would yet know them and me1 he would be glad to stay1 and see also the pictures of the magic lantern2 but1 as it was now getting dark1 he had evidently got enough of my witchery1 and began to use some charms to dispel any kindly feelings he might have found stealing round his heart4 ,he asked leave to go1 and when his party moved off a little way1 he sent for my spokesman1 and told him that1 if we did not add a red jacket and a man to our gift of a few copper rings and a few pounds of meat1 we must return by the way we had come4 ,i said in reply that we should certainly go forward next day1 and if he commenced hostilities1 the blame before ,god would be that of ,sansawe2 and my man added of his own accord1 ,how many white men have you killed in this path8 which might be interpreted into1 ,you have never killed any white man1 and you will find ours more difficult to manage than you imagine4 ,it expressed a determination1 which we had often repeated to each other1 to die rather than yield one of our party to be a slave4 ,hunger has a powerful effect on the temper4 ,when we had got a good meal of meat1 we could all bear the petty annoyances of these borderers on the more civilized region in front with equanimity2 but having suffered considerably of late1 we were all rather soured in our feelings1 and not unfrequently ,i overheard my companions remark in their own tongue1 in answer to threats of attack1 ,that's what we want3 only begin then2 or with clenched teeth they would exclaim to each other1 ,these things have never traveled1 and do not know what men are4 ,the worrying1 of which ,i give only a slight sketch1 had considerable influence on my own mind1 and more especially as it was impossible to make any allowance for the ,bashinje1 such as ,i was willing to award to the ,chiboque4 ,they saw that we had nothing to give1 nor would they be benefited in the least by enforcing the impudent order to return whence we had come4 ,they were adding insult to injury1 and this put us all into a fighting spirit1 and1 as nearly as we could judge1 we expected to be obliged to cut our way through the ,bashinje next morning4 #c;,d ,,april4 ,as soon as day dawned we were astir1 and1 setting off in a drizzling rain1 passed close to the village4 ,this rain probably damped the ardor of the robbers4 ,we1 however1 expected to be fired upon from every clump of trees1 or from some of the rocky hillocks among which we were passing2 and it was only after two hours' march that we began to breathe freely1 and my men remarked1 in thankfulness1 ,we are children of ,jesus4 ,we continued our course1 notwithstanding the rain1 across the bottom of the ,quango ,valley1 which we found broken by clay shale rocks jutting out1 though lying nearly horizontally4 ,the grass in all the hollows1 at this time quite green1 was about two feet higher than my head while sitting on ox-back4 ,this grass1 wetted by the rain1 acted as a shower-bath on one side of our bodies2 and some deep gullies1 full of ,,discolored water1 completed the cooling process4 ,we passed many villages during this drenching1 one of which possessed a flock of sheep2 and after six hours we came to a stand near the ,river ,quango 7lat4 #i;d #ec' ,s41 long4 #ah;d #cg' ,e471 which may be called the boundary of the ,portuguese claims to territory on the west4 ,as ,i had now no change of clothing1 ,i was glad to cower under the shelter of my blanket1 thankful to ,god for his goodness in bringing us so far without losing one of the party4 #d,,th ,,april4 ,we were now on the banks of the ,quango1 a river one hundred and fifty yards wide1 and very deep4 ,the water was discolored--a circumstance which we had observed in no river in ,londa or in the ,makololo country4 ,this fine river flows among extensive meadows clothed with gigantic grass and reeds1 and in a direction nearly north4 ,the ,quango is said by the natives to contain many venomous water-snakes1 which congregate near the carcass of any hippopotamus that may be killed in it4 ,if this is true1 it may account for all the villages we saw being situated far from its banks4 ,we were advised not to sleep near it2 but1 as we were anxious to cross to the western side1 we tried to induce some of the ,bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose4 ,this brought out the chief of these parts1 who informed us that all the canoe-men were his children1 and nothing could be done without his authority4 ,he then made the usual demand for a man1 an ox1 or a gun1 adding that otherwise we must return to the country from which we had come4 ,as ,i did not believe that this man had any power over the canoes of the other side1 and suspected that if ,i gave him my blanket--the only thing ,i now had in reserve--he might leave us in the lurch after all1 ,i tried to persuade my men to go at once to the bank1 about two miles off1 and obtain possession of the canoes before we gave up the blanket2 but they thought that this chief might attack us in the act of crossing1 should we do so4 ,the chief came himself to our encampment and made his demand again4 ,my men stripped off the last of their copper rings and gave them2 but he was still intent on a man4 ,he thought1 as others did1 that my men were slaves4 ,he was a young man1 with his woolly hair elaborately dressed3 that behind was made up into a cone1 about eight inches in diameter at the base1 carefully swathed round with red and black thread4 ,as ,i resisted the proposal to deliver up my blanket until they had placed us on the western bank1 this chief continued to worry us with his demands till ,i was tired4 ,my little tent was now in tatters1 and having a wider hole behind than the door in front1 ,i tried in vain to lie down out of sight of our persecutors4 ,we were on a reedy flat1 and could not follow our usual plan of a small stockade1 in which we had time to think over and concoct our plans4 ,as ,i was trying to persuade my men to move on to the bank in spite of these people1 a young half-caste ,portuguese sergeant of militia1 ,cypriano di ,abreu1 made his appearance1 and gave the same advice4 ,he had come across the ,quango in search of bees'-wax4 ,when we moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us1 his people opened a fire from our sheds1 and continued to blaze away some time in the direction we were going1 but none of the bullets reached us4 ,it is probable that they expected a demonstration of the abundance of ammunition they possessed would make us run2 but when we continued to move quietly to the ford1 they proceeded no farther than our sleeping-place4 ,cypriano assisted us in making a more satisfactory arrangement with the ferrymen than parting with my blanket2 and as soon as we reached the opposite bank we were in the territory of the ,bangala1 who are subjects of the ,portuguese1 and often spoken of as the ,cassanges or ,cassantse2 and happily all our difficulties with the border tribes were at an end4 ,passing with light hearts through the high grass by a narrow footpath for about three miles to the west of the river1 we came to several neat square houses1 with many cleanly-looking half-caste ,portuguese standing in front of them to salute us4 ,they are all enrolled in the militia1 and our friend ,cypriano is the commander of a division established here4 ,the ,bangala were very troublesome to the ,portuguese traders1 and at last proceeded so far as to kill one of them2 the government of ,angola then sent an expedition against them1 which being successful1 the ,bangala were dispersed1 and are now returning to their former abodes as vassals4 ,the militia are quartered among them1 and engage in trade and agriculture for their support1 as no pay is given to this branch of the service by the government4 ,we came to the dwelling of ,cypriano after dark1 and ,i pitched my little tent in front of it for the night4 ,we had the company of mosquitoes here4 ,we never found them troublesome on the banks of the pure streams of ,londa4 ,on the morning of the #eth ,cypriano generously supplied my men with pumpkins and maize1 and then invited me to breakfast1 which consisted of ground-nuts and roasted maize1 then boiled manioc roots and ground-nuts1 with guavas and honey as a dessert4 ,i felt sincerely grateful for this magnificent breakfast4 ,at dinner ,cypriano was equally bountiful1 and several of his friends joined us in doing justice to his hospitality4 ,before eating1 all had water poured on the hands by a female slave to wash them4 ,one of the guests cut up a fowl with a knife and fork4 ,neither forks nor spoons were used in eating4 ,the repast was partaken of with decency and good manners1 and concluded by washing the hands as at first4 ,all of them could read and write with ease4 ,i examined the books they possessed1 and found a small work on medicine1 a small cyclopaedia1 and a ,portuguese dictionary1 in which the definition of a priest seemed strange to a ,protestant1 namely1 one who takes care of the conscience4 ,they had also a few tracts containing the ,lives of the ,saints1 and ,cypriano had three small wax images of saints in his room4 ,one of these was ,st4 ,anthony1 who1 had he endured the privations he did in his cell in looking after these lost sheep1 would have lived to better purpose4 ,neither ,cypriano nor his companions knew what the ,bible was1 but they had relics in ,german-silver cases hung round their necks1 to act as charms and save them from danger by land or by water1 in the same way as the heathen have medicines4 ,it is a pity that the ,church to which they belong1 when unable to attend to the wants of her children1 does not give them the sacred writings in their own tongue2 it would surely be better to see them good ,protestants1 if these would lead them to be so1 than entirely ignorant of ,god's message to man4 ,for my part1 ,i would much prefer to see the ,africans good ,roman ,catholics than idolatrous heathen4 ,much of the civility shown to us here was1 no doubt1 owing to the flattering letters of recommendation ,i carried from the ,chevalier ,du ,prat1 of ,cape ,town2 but ,i am inclined to believe that my friend ,cypriano was influenced1 too1 by feelings of genuine kindness1 for he quite bared his garden in feeding us during the few days which ,i remained1 anxiously expecting the clouds to disperse1 so far as to allow of my taking observations for the determination of the position of the ,quango4 ,he slaughtered an ox for us1 and furnished his mother and her maids with manioc roots1 to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey to ,cassange1 and never even hinted at payment4 ,my wretched appearance must have excited his compassion4 ,the farina is prepared by washing the roots well1 then rasping them down to a pulp4 ,next1 this is roasted slightly on a metal plate over a fire1 and is then used with meat as a vegetable4 ,it closely resembles wood-sawings1 and on that account is named wood-meal4 ,it is insipid1 and employed to lick up any gravy remaining on one's plate4 ,those who have become accustomed to it relish it even after they have returned to ,europe4 ,the manioc cultivated here is of the sweet variety2 the bitter1 to which we were accustomed in ,londa1 is not to be found very extensively in this fertile valley4 ,may is the beginning of winter1 yet many of the inhabitants were busy planting maize2 that which we were now eating was planted in the beginning of ,february4 ,the soil is exceedingly fertile1 of a dark red color1 and covered with such a dense1 heavy crop of coarse grass1 that when a marauding party of ,ambonda once came for plunder while it was in a dried state1 the ,bangala encircled the common enemy with a fire which completely destroyed them4 ,this1 which is related on the authority of ,portuguese who were then in the country1 ,i can easily believe to be true1 for the stalks of the grass are generally as thick as goose-quills1 and no flight could be made through the mass of grass in any direction where a footpath does not exist4 ,probably1 in the case mentioned1 the direction of the wind was such as to drive the flames across the paths1 and prevent escape along them4 ,on one occasion ,i nearly lost my wagon by fire1 in a valley where the grass was only about three feet high4 ,we were roused by the roar1 as of a torrent1 made by the fire coming from the windward4 ,i immediately set fire to that on our leeward1 and had just time to drag the wagon on to the bare space there before the windward flames reached the place where it had stood4 ,we were detained by rains and a desire to ascertain our geographical position till ,monday1 the #ajth1 and only got the latitude #i;d #ej' ,s42 and1 after three days' pretty hard traveling through the long grass1 reached ,cassange1 the farthest inland station of the ,portuguese in ,western ,africa4 ,we crossed several fine little streams running into the ,quango2 and as the grass continued to tower about two feet over our heads1 it generally obstructed our view of the adjacent country1 and sometimes hung over the path1 making one side of the body wet with the dew every morning1 or1 when it rained1 kept me wet during the whole day4 ,i made my entrance in a somewhat forlorn state as to clothing among our ,portuguese allies4 ,the first gentleman ,i met in the village asked if ,i had a passport1 and said it was necessary to take me before the authorities4 ,as ,i was in the same state of mind in which individuals are who commit a petty depredation in order to obtain the shelter and food of a prison1 ,i gladly accompanied him to the house of the commandant or ,chefe1 ,senhor de ,silva ,rego4 ,having shown my passport to this gentleman1 he politely asked me to supper1 and1 as we had eaten nothing except the farina of ,cypriano from the ,quango to this1 ,i suspect ,i appeared particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen around the table4 ,they seemed1 however1 to understand my position pretty well1 from having all traveled extensively themselves2 had they not been present1 ,i might have put some in my pocket to eat by night2 for1 after fever1 the appetite is excessively keen1 and manioc is one of the most unsatisfying kinds of food4 ,captain ,antonio ,rodrigues ,neves then kindly invited me to take up my abode in his house4 ,next morning this generous man arrayed me in decent clothing1 and continued during the whole period of my stay to treat me as if ,i had been his brother4 ,i feel deeply grateful to him for his disinterested kindness4 ,he not only attended to my wants1 but also furnished food for my famishing party free of charge4 ,the village of ,cassange 7pronounced ,kassanje7 is composed of thirty or forty traders' houses1 scattered about without any regularity1 on an elevated flat spot in the great ,quango or ,cassange valley4 ,they are built of wattle and daub1 and surrounded by plantations of manioc1 maize1 etc4 ,behind them there are usually kitchen gardens1 in which the common ,european vegetables1 as potatoes1 peas1 cabbages1 onions1 tomatoes1 etc41 etc41 grow4 ,guavas and bananas appear1 from the size and abundance of the trees1 to have been introduced many years ago1 while the land was still in the possession of the natives2 but pine-apples1 orange1 fig1 and cashew trees have but lately been tried4 ,there are about forty ,portuguese traders in this district1 all of whom are officers in the militia1 and many of them have become rich from adopting the plan of sending out ,pombeiros1 or native traders1 with large quantities of goods1 to trade in the more remote parts of the country4 ,some of the governors of ,loanda1 the capital of this1 the kingdom of ,angola1 have insisted on the observance of a law which1 from motives of humanity1 forbids the ,portuguese themselves from passing beyond the boundary4 ,they seem to have taken it for granted that1 in cases where the white trader was killed1 the aggression had been made by him1 and they wished to avoid the necessity of punishing those who had been provoked to shed ,portuguese blood4 ,this indicates a much greater impartiality than has obtained in our own dealings with the ,caffres1 for we have engaged in most expensive wars with them without once inquiring whether any of the fault lay with our frontier colonists4 ,the ,cassange traders seem inclined to spread along the ,quango1 in spite of the desire of their government to keep them on one spot1 for mutual protection in case of war4 ,if ,i might judge from the week of feasting ,i passed among them1 they are generally prosperous4 ,as ,i always preferred to appear in my own proper character1 ,i was an object of curiosity to these hospitable ,portuguese4 ,they evidently looked upon me as an agent of the ,english government1 engaged in some new movement for the suppression of slavery4 ,they could not divine what a missionario had to do with the latitudes and longitudes1 which ,i was intent on observing4 ,when we became a little familiar1 the questions put were rather amusing3 ,is it common for missionaries to be doctors8 ,are you a doctor of medicine and a 'doutor mathematico' too8 ,you must be more than a missionary to know how to calculate the longitude6 ,come1 tell us at once what rank you hold in the ,english army4 ,they may have given credit to my reason for wearing the mustache1 as that explains why men have beards and women have none2 but that which puzzled many besides my ,cassange friends was the anomaly of my being a sacerdote1 with a wife and four children6 ,i usually got rid of the last question by putting another3 ,is it not better to have children with a wife1 than to have children without a wife8 ,but all were most kind and hospitable2 and as one of their festivals was near1 they invited me to partake of the feast4 ,the anniversary of the ,resurrection of our ,savior was observed on the #afth of ,april as a day of rejoicing1 though the ,portuguese have no priests at ,cassange4 ,the colored population dressed up a figure intended to represent ,judas ,iscariot1 and paraded him on a riding-ox about the village2 sneers and maledictions were freely bestowed on the poor wretch thus represented4 ,the slaves and free colored population1 dressed in their gayest clothing1 made visits to all the principal merchants1 and wishing them a good feast1 expected a present in return4 ,this1 though frequently granted in the shape of pieces of calico to make new dresses1 was occasionally refused1 but the rebuff did not much affect the petitioner4 ,at ten ,a4,m4 we went to the residence of the commandant1 and on a signal being given1 two of the four brass guns belonging to the government commenced firing1 and continued some time1 to the great admiration of my men1 whose ideas of the power of a cannon are very exalted4 ,the ,portuguese flag was hoisted and trumpets sounded1 as an expression of joy at the resurrection of our ,lord4 ,captain ,neves invited all the principal inhabitants of the place1 and did what he could to feast them in a princely style4 ,all manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine from ,portugal1 biscuits from ,america1 butter from ,cork1 and beer from ,england1 were displayed1 and no expense spared in rendering the entertainment joyous4 ,after the feast was over they sat down to the common amusement of card-playing1 which continued till eleven o'clock at night4 ,as far as a mere traveler could judge1 they seemed to be polite and willing to aid each other4 ,they live in a febrile district1 and many of them had enlarged spleens4 ,they have neither doctor1 apothecary1 school1 nor priest1 and1 when taken ill1 trust to each other and to ,providence4 ,as men left in such circumstances must think for themselves1 they have all a good idea of what ought to be done in the common diseases of the country1 and what they have of either medicine or skill they freely impart to each other4 ,none of these gentlemen had ,portuguese wives4 ,they usually come to ,africa in order to make a little money1 and return to ,lisbon4 ,hence they seldom bring their wives with them1 and never can be successful colonists in consequence4 ,it is common for them to have families by native women4 ,it was particularly gratifying to me1 who had been familiar with the stupid prejudice against color1 entertained only by those who are themselves becoming tawny1 to view the liberality with which people of color were treated by the ,portuguese4 ,instances1 so common in the ,south1 in which half-caste children are abandoned1 are here extremely rare4 ,they are acknowledged at table1 and provided for by their fathers as if ,european4 ,the colored clerks of the merchants sit at the same table with their employers without any embarrassment4 ,the civil manners of superiors to inferiors is probably the result of the position they occupy--a few whites among thousands of blacks2 but nowhere else in ,africa is there so much good-will between ,europeans and natives as here4 ,if some border colonists had the absolute certainty of our government declining to bear them out in their arrogance1 we should probably hear less of ,caffre insolence4 ,it is insolence which begets insolence4 ,from the village of ,cassange we have a good view of the surrounding country3 it is a gently undulating plain1 covered with grass and patches of forest4 ,the western edge of the ,quango valley appears1 about twenty miles off1 as if it were a range of lofty mountains1 and passes by the name of ,tala ,mungongo1 ,behold the ,range4 ,in the old ,portuguese map1 to which ,i had been trusting in planning my route1 it is indicated as ,talla ,mugongo1 or ,castle of ,rocks6 and the ,coanza is put down as rising therefrom2 but here ,i was assured that the ,coanza had its source near ,bihe1 far to the southwest of this1 and we should not see that river till we came near ,pungo ,andonga4 ,it is somewhat remarkable that more accurate information about this country has not been published4 ,captain ,neves and others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers1 and communicated their knowledge freely2 yet about this time maps were sent to ,europe from ,angola representing the ,quango and ,coanza as the same river1 and ,cassange placed about one hundred miles from its true position4 ,the frequent recurrence of the same name has probably helped to increase the confusion4 ,i have crossed several ,quangos1 but all insignificant1 except that which drains this valley4 ,the repetition of the favorite names of chiefs1 as ,catende1 is also perplexing1 as one ,catende may be mistaken for another4 ,to avoid this confusion as much as possible1 ,i have refrained from introducing many names4 ,numerous villages are studded all over the valley2 but these possess no permanence1 and many more existed previous to the ,portuguese expedition of #ahej to punish the ,bangala4 ,this valley1 as ,i have before remarked1 is all fertile in the extreme4 ,my men could never cease admiring its capability for raising their corn 7',holcus sorghum'71 and despising the comparatively limited cultivation of the inhabitants4 ,the ,portuguese informed me that no manure is ever needed1 but that1 the more the ground is tilled1 the better it yields4 ,virgin soil does not give such a heavy crop as an old garden1 and1 judging from the size of the maize and manioc in the latter1 ,i can readily believe the statement4 ,cattle do well1 too4 ,viewing the valley as a whole1 it may be said that its agricultural and pastoral riches are lying waste4 ,both the ,portuguese and their descendants turn their attention almost exclusively to trade in wax and ivory1 and though the country would yield any amount of corn and dairy produce1 the native ,portuguese live chiefly on manioc1 and the ,europeans purchase their flour1 bread1 butter1 and cheese from the ,americans4 ,as the traders of ,cassange were the first white men we had come to1 we sold the tusks belonging to ,sekeletu1 which had been brought to test the difference of prices in the ,makololo and white men's country4 ,the result was highly satisfactory to my companions1 as the ,portuguese give much larger prices for ivory than traders from the ,cape can possibly give1 who labor under the disadvantage of considerable overland expenses and ruinous restrictions4 ,two muskets1 three small barrels of gunpowder1 and ,english calico and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party1 with large bunches of beads1 all for one tusk1 were quite delightful for those who had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun4 ,with another tusk we procured calico1 which here is the chief currency1 to pay our way down to the coast4 ,the remaining two were sold for money to purchase a horse for ,sekeletu at ,loanda4 ,the superiority of this new market was quite astounding to the ,makololo1 and they began to abuse the traders by whom they had1 while in their own country1 been visited1 and1 as they now declared1 cheated4 ,they had no idea of the value of time and carriage1 and it was somewhat difficult for me to convince them that the reason of the difference of prices lay entirely in what they themselves had done in coming here1 and that1 if the ,portuguese should carry goods to their country1 they would by no means be so liberal in their prices4 ,they imagined that1 if the ,cassange traders came to ,linyanti1 they would continue to vend their goods at ,cassange prices4 ,i believe ,i gave them at last a clear idea of the manner in which prices were regulated by the expenses incurred2 and when we went to ,loanda1 and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate1 they concluded that it would be better for them to come to that city1 than to turn homeward at ,cassange4 ,it was interesting for me to observe the effects of the restrictive policy pursued by the ,cape government toward the ,bechuanas4 ,like all other restrictions on trade1 the law of preventing friendly tribes from purchasing arms and ammunition only injures the men who enforce it4 ,the ,cape government1 as already observed1 in order to gratify a company of independent ,boers1 whose well-known predilection for the practice of slavery caused them to stipulate that a number of peaceable1 honest tribes should be kept defenseless1 agreed to allow free trade in arms and ammunition to the ,boers1 and prevent the same trade to the ,bechuanas4 ,the ,cape government thereby unintentionally aided1 and continues to aid1 the ,boers to enslave the natives4 ,but arms and ammunition flow in on all sides by new channels1 and where formerly the price of a large tusk procured but one musket1 one tusk of the same size now brings ten4 ,the profits are reaped by other nations1 and the only persons really the losers1 in the long run1 are our own ,cape merchants1 and a few defenseless tribes of ,bechuanas on our immediate frontier4 ,mr4 ,rego1 the commandant1 very handsomely offered me a soldier as a guard to ,ambaca4 ,my men told me that they had been thinking it would be better to turn back here1 as they had been informed by the people of color at ,cassange that ,i was leading them down to the sea-coast only to sell them1 and they would be taken on board ship1 fattened1 and eaten1 as the white men were cannibals4 ,i asked if they had ever heard of an ,englishman buying or selling people2 if ,i had not refused to take a slave when she was offered to me by ,shinte2 but1 as ,i had always behaved as an ,english teacher1 if they now doubted my intentions1 they had better not go to the coast2 ,i1 however1 who expected to meet some of my countrymen there1 was determined to go on4 ,they replied that they only thought it right to tell me what had been told to them1 but they did not intend to leave me1 and would follow wherever ,i should lead the way4 ,this affair being disposed of for the time1 the commandant gave them an ox1 and me a friendly dinner before parting4 ,all the merchants of ,cassange accompanied us1 in their hammocks carried by slaves1 to the edge of the plateau on which their village stands1 and we parted with the feeling in my mind that ,i should never forget their disinterested kindness4 ,they not only did every thing they could to make my men and me comfortable during our stay2 but1 there being no hotels in ,loanda1 they furnished me with letters of recommendation to their friends in that city1 requesting them to receive me into their houses1 for without these a stranger might find himself a lodger in the streets4 ,may ,god remember them in their day of need6 ,the latitude and longitude of ,cassange1 the most easterly station of the ,portuguese in ,western ,africa1 is lat4 #i;d #cg' #cj ,s41 and long4 #ag;d #di' ,e42 consequently we had still about #cjj miles to traverse before we could reach the coast4 ,we had a black militia corporal as a guide4 ,he was a native of ,ambaca1 and1 like nearly all the inhabitants of that district1 known by the name of ,ambakistas1 could both read and write4 ,he had three slaves with him1 and was carried by them in a tipoia1 or hammock slung to a pole4 ,his slaves were young1 and unable to convey him far at a time1 but he was considerate enough to walk except when we came near to a village4 ,he then mounted his tipoia and entered the village in state2 his departure was made in the same manner1 and he continued in the hammock till the village was out of sight4 ,it was interesting to observe the manners of our soldier-guide4 ,two slaves were always employed in carrying his tipoia1 and the third carried a wooden box1 about three feet long1 containing his writing materials1 dishes1 and clothing4 ,he was cleanly in all his ways1 and1 though quite black himself1 when he scolded any one of his own color1 abused him as a negro4 ,when he wanted to purchase any article from a village1 he would sit down1 mix a little gunpowder as ink1 and write a note in a neat hand to ask the price1 addressing it to the shopkeeper with the rather pompous title1 ,illustrissimo ,senhor 7,most ,illustrious ,sir74 ,this is the invariable mode of address throughout ,angola4 ,the answer returned would be in the same style1 and1 if satisfactory1 another note followed to conclude the bargain4 ,there is so much of this note correspondence carried on in ,angola1 that a very large quantity of paper is annually consumed4 ,some other peculiarities of our guide were not so pleasing4 ,a land of slaves is a bad school for even the free2 and ,i was sorry to find less truthfulness and honesty in him than in my own people4 ,we were often cheated through his connivance with the sellers of food1 and could perceive that he got a share of the plunder from them4 ,the food is very cheap1 but it was generally made dear enough1 until ,i refused to allow him to come near the place where we were bargaining4 ,but he took us safely down to ,ambaca1 and ,i was glad to see1 on my return to ,cassange1 that he was promoted to be sergeant-major of a company of militia4 ,having left ,cassange on the #bast1 we passed across the remaining portion of this excessively fertile valley to the foot of ,tala ,mungongo4 ,we crossed a fine little stream called the ,lui on the #bb;d1 and another named the ,luare on the #bdth1 then slept at the bottom of the height1 which is from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet4 ,the clouds came floating along the valley1 and broke against the sides of the ascent1 and the dripping rain on the tall grass made the slaps in the face it gave1 when the hand or a stick was not held up before it1 any thing but agreeable4 ,this edge of the valley is exactly like the other2 jutting spurs and defiles give the red ascent the same serrated appearance as that which we descended from the highlands of ,londa4 ,the whole of this vast valley has been removed by denudation1 for pieces of the plateau which once filled the now vacant space stand in it1 and present the same structure of red horizontal strata of equal altitudes with those of the acclivity which we are now about to ascend4 ,one of these insulated masses1 named ,kasala1 bore ,e4,s4,e4 from the place where we made our exit from the valley1 and about ten miles ,w4,s4,w4 from the village of ,cassange4 ,it is remarkable for its perpendicular sides2 even the natives find it extremely difficult1 almost impossible1 to reach its summit1 though there is the temptation of marabou-nests and feathers1 which are highly prized4 ,there is a small lake reported to exist on its southern end1 and1 during the rainy season1 a sort of natural moat is formed around the bottom4 ,what an acquisition this would have been in feudal times in ,england6 ,there is land sufficient for considerable cultivation on the top1 with almost perpendicular sides more than a thousand feet in height4 ,we had not yet got a clear idea of the nature of ,tala ,mungongo4 ,a gentleman of ,cassange described it as a range of very high mountains1 which it would take four hours to climb2 so1 though the rain and grass had wetted us miserably1 and ,i was suffering from an attack of fever got while observing by night for the position of ,cassange1 ,i eagerly commenced the ascent4 ,the path was steep and slippery2 deep gorges appear on each side of it1 leaving but a narrow path along certain spurs of the sierra for the traveler2 but we accomplished the ascent in an hour1 and when there1 found we had just got on to a table-land similar to that we had left before we entered the great ,quango valley4 ,we had come among lofty trees again4 ,one of these1 bearing a fruit about the size of a thirty-two pounder1 is named ,mononga-zambi4 ,we took a glance back to this valley1 which equals that of the ,mississippi in fertility1 and thought of the vast mass of material which had been scooped out and carried away in its formation4 ,this naturally led to reflection on the countless ages required for the previous formation and deposition of that same material 7clay shale71 then of the rocks1 whose abrasion formed ,,that1 until the mind grew giddy in attempting to ascend the steps which lead up through a portion of the eternity before man4 ,the different epochs of geology are like landmarks in that otherwise shoreless sea4 ,our own epoch1 or creation1 is but another added to the number of that wonderful series which presents a grand display of the mighty power of ,god3 every stage of progress in the earth and its habitants is such a display4 ,so far from this science having any tendency to make men undervalue the power or love of ,god1 it leads to the probability that the exhibition of mercy we have in the gift of his ,son may possibly not be the only manifestation of grace which has taken place in the countless ages during which works of creation have been going on4 ,situated a few miles from the edge of the descent1 we found the village of ,tala ,mungongo1 and were kindly accommodated with a house to sleep in1 which was very welcome1 as we were all both wet and cold4 ,we found that the greater altitude and the approach of winter lowered the temperature so much that many of my men suffered severely from colds4 ,at this1 as at several other ,portuguese stations1 they have been provident enough to erect travelers' houses on the same principle as khans or caravanserais of the ,east4 ,they are built of the usual wattle and daub1 and have benches of rods for the wayfarer to make his bed on2 also chairs1 and a table1 and a large jar of water4 ,these benches1 though far from luxurious couches1 were better than the ground under the rotten fragments of my gipsy-tent1 for we had still showers occasionally1 and the dews were very heavy4 ,i continued to use them for the sake of the shelter they afforded1 until ,i found that they were lodgings also for certain inconvenient bedfellows4 #bg,,th4 ,five hours' ride through a pleasant country of forest and meadow1 like those of ,londa1 brought us to a village of ,basongo1 a tribe living in subjection to the ,portuguese4 ,we crossed several little streams1 which were flowing in the westerly direction in which we were marching1 and unite to form the ,quize1 a feeder of the ,coanza4 ,the ,basongo were very civil1 as indeed all the tribes were who had been conquered by the ,portuguese4 ,the ,basongo and ,bangala are yet only partially subdued4 ,the farther west we go from this1 the less independent we find the black population1 until we reach the vicinity of ,loanda1 where the free natives are nearly identical in their feelings toward the government with the slaves4 ,but the governors of ,angola wisely accept the limited allegiance and tribute rendered by the more distant tribes as better than none4 ,all the inhabitants of this region1 as well as those of ,londa1 may be called true negroes1 if the limitations formerly made be borne in mind4 ,the dark color1 thick lips1 heads elongated backward and upward and covered with wool1 flat noses1 with other negro peculiarities1 are general2 but1 while these characteristics place them in the true negro family1 the reader would imbibe a wrong idea if he supposed that all these features combined are often met with in one individual4 ,all have a certain thickness and prominence of lip1 but many are met with in every village in whom thickness and projection are not more marked than in ,europeans4 ,all are dark1 but the color is shaded off in different individuals from deep black to light yellow4 ,as we go westward1 we observe the light color predominating over the dark1 and then again1 when we come within the influence of damp from the sea air1 we find the shade deepen into the general blackness of the coast population4 ,the shape of the head1 with its woolly crop1 though general1 is not universal4 ,the tribes on the eastern side of the continent1 as the ,caffres1 have heads finely developed and strongly ,european4 ,instances of this kind are frequently seen1 and after ,i became so familiar with the dark color as to forget it in viewing the countenance1 ,i was struck by the strong resemblance some natives bore to certain of our own notabilities4 ,the ,bushmen and ,hottentots are exceptions to these remarks1 for both the shape of their heads and growth of wool are peculiar2 the latter1 for instance1 springs from the scalp in tufts with bare spaces between1 and when the crop is short1 resembles a number of black pepper-corns stuck on the skin1 and very unlike the thick frizzly masses which cover the heads of the ,balonda and ,maravi4 ,with every disposition to pay due deference to the opinions of those who have made ethnology their special study1 ,i have felt myself unable to believe that the exaggerated features usually put forth as those of the typical negro characterize the majority of any nation of south ,central ,africa4 ,the monuments of the ancient ,egyptians seem to me to embody the ideal of the inhabitants of ,londa better than the figures of any work of ethnology ,i have met with4 ,passing through a fine1 fertile1 and well-peopled country to ,sanza1 we found the ,quize ,river again touching our path1 and here we had the pleasure of seeing a field of wheat growing luxuriantly without irrigation4 ,the ears were upward of four inches long1 an object of great curiosity to my companions1 because they had tasted my bread at ,linyanti1 but had never before seen wheat growing4 ,this small field was cultivated by ,mr4 ,miland1 an agreeable ,portuguese merchant4 ,his garden was interesting1 as showing what the land at this elevation is capable of yielding2 for1 besides wheat1 we saw ,european vegetables in a flourishing condition1 and we afterward discovered that the coffee-plant has propagated itself on certain spots of this same district4 ,it may be seen on the heights of ,tala ,mungongo1 or nearly #cjj miles from the west coast1 where it was first introduced by the ,jesuit missionaries4 ,we spent ,sunday1 the #cjth of ,april1 at ,ngio1 close to the ford of the ,quize as it crosses our path to fall into the ,coanza4 ,the country becomes more open1 but is still abundantly fertile1 with a thick crop of grass between two and three feet high4 ,it is also well wooded and watered4 ,villages of ,basongo are dotted over the landscape1 and frequently a square house of wattle and daub1 belonging to native ,portuguese1 is placed beside them for the purposes of trade4 ,the people here possess both cattle and pigs4 ,the different sleeping-places on our path1 from eight to ten miles apart1 are marked by a cluster of sheds made of sticks and grass4 ,there is a constant stream of people going and returning to and from the coast4 ,the goods are carried on the head1 or on one shoulder1 in a sort of basket attached to the extremities of two poles between five and six feet long1 and called ,motete4 ,when the basket is placed on the head1 the poles project forward horizontally1 and when the carrier wishes to rest himself1 he plants them on the ground and the burden against a tree1 so he is not obliged to lift it up from the ground to the level of the head4 ,it stands against the tree propped up by the poles at that level4 ,the carrier frequently plants the poles on the ground1 and stands holding the burden until he has taken breath1 thus avoiding the trouble of placing the burden on the ground and lifting it up again4 ,when a company of these carriers1 or our own party1 arrives at one of these sleeping-places1 immediate possession is taken of the sheds4 ,those who come late1 and find all occupied1 must then erect others for themselves2 but this is not difficult1 for there is no lack of long grass4 ,no sooner do any strangers appear at the spot1 than the women may be seen emerging from their villages bearing baskets of manioc-meal1 roots1 ground-nuts1 yams1 bird's-eye pepper1 and garlic for sale4 ,calico1 of which we had brought some from ,cassange1 is the chief medium of exchange4 ,we found them all civil1 and it was evident1 from the amount of talking and laughing in bargaining1 that the ladies enjoyed their occupation4 ,they must cultivate largely1 in order to be able to supply the constant succession of strangers4 ,those1 however1 near to the great line of road1 purchase also much of the food from the more distant villages for the sake of gain4 ,pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of fever1 and it was no wonder1 for the dampness and evaporation from the ground was excessive4 ,when at any time ,i attempted to get an observation of a star1 if the trough of mercury were placed on the ground1 so much moisture was condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it that it was with difficulty the reflection of the star could be seen4 ,when the trough was placed on a box to prevent the moisture entering from below1 so much dew was deposited on the outside of the roof that it was soon necessary1 for the sake of distinct vision1 to wipe the glass4 ,this would not have been of great consequence1 but a short exposure to this dew was so sure to bring on a fresh fever1 that ,i was obliged to give up observations by night altogether4 ,the inside of the only covering ,i now had was not much better1 but under the blanket one is not so liable to the chill which the dew produces4 ,it would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a more intimate acquaintance with the inhabitants of this part of the country1 but the vertigo produced by frequent fevers made it as much as ,i could do to stick on the ox and crawl along in misery4 ,in crossing the ,lombe1 my ox ,sinbad1 in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out a new path for himself1 plunged overhead into a deep hole1 and so soused me that ,i was obliged to move on to dry my clothing1 without calling on the ,europeans who live on the bank4 ,this ,i regretted1 for all the ,portuguese were very kind1 and1 like the ,boers placed in similar circumstances1 feel it a slight to be passed without a word of salutation4 ,but we went on to a spot where orange-trees had been planted by the natives themselves1 and where abundance of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale4 ,on entering the district of ,ambaca1 we found the landscape enlivened by the appearance of lofty mountains in the distance1 the grass comparatively short1 and the whole country at this time looking gay and verdant4 ,on our left we saw certain rocks of the same nature with those of ,pungo ,andongo1 and which closely resemble the ,stonehenge group on ,salisbury ,plain1 only the stone pillars here are of gigantic size4 ,this region is all wonderfully fertile1 famed for raising cattle1 and all kinds of agricultural produce1 at a cheap rate4 ,the soil contains sufficient ferruginous matter1 to impart a red tinge to nearly the whole of it4 ,it is supplied with a great number of little flowing streams which unite in the ,lucalla4 ,this river drains ,ambaca1 then falls into the ,coanza to the southwest at ,massangano4 ,we crossed the ,lucalla by means of a large canoe kept there by a man who farms the ferry from the government1 and charges about a penny per head4 ,a few miles beyond the ,lucalla we came to the village of ,ambaca1 an important place in former times1 but now a mere paltry village1 beautifully situated on a little elevation in a plain surrounded on all hands by lofty mountains4 ,it has a jail1 and a good house for the commandant1 but neither fort nor church1 though the ruins of a place of worship are still standing4 ,we were most kindly received by the commandant of ,ambaca1 ,arsenio de ,carpo1 who spoke a little ,english4 ,he recommended wine for my debility1 and here ,i took the first glass of that beverage ,i had taken in ,africa4 ,i felt much refreshed1 and could then realize and meditate on the weakening effects of the fever4 ,they were curious even to myself2 for1 though ,i had tried several times since we left ,ngio to take lunar observations1 ,i could not avoid confusion of time and distance1 neither could ,i hold the instrument steady1 nor perform a simple calculation2 hence many of the positions of this part of the route were left till my return from ,loanda4 ,often1 on getting up in the mornings1 ,i found my clothing as wet from perspiration as if it had been dipped in water4 ,in vain had ,i tried to learn or collect words of the ,bunda1 or dialect spoken in ,angola4 ,i forgot the days of the week and the names of my companions1 and1 had ,i been asked1 ,i probably could not have told my own4 ,the complaint itself occupied many of my thoughts4 ,one day ,i supposed that ,i had got the true theory of it1 and would certainly cure the next attack1 whether in myself or companions2 but some new symptoms would appear1 and scatter all the fine speculations which had sprung up1 with extraordinary fertility1 in one department of my brain4 ,this district is said to contain upward of #dj1jjj souls4 ,some ten or twelve miles to the north of the village of ,ambaca there once stood the missionary station of ,cahenda1 and it is now quite astonishing to observe the great numbers who can read and write in this district4 ,this is the fruit of the labors of the ,jesuit and ,capuchin missionaries1 for they taught the people of ,ambaca2 and ever since the expulsion of the teachers by the ,marquis of ,pombal1 the natives have continued to teach each other4 ,these devoted men are still held in high estimation throughout the country to this day4 ,all speak well of them 7os padres ,jesuitas72 and1 now that they are gone from this lower sphere1 ,i could not help wishing that these our ,roman ,catholic fellow-,christians had felt it to be their duty to give the people the ,bible1 to be a light to their feet when the good men themselves were gone4 ,when sleeping in the house of the commandant1 an insect1 well known in the southern country by the name ,tampan1 bit my foot4 ,it is a kind of tick1 and chooses by preference the parts between the fingers or toes for inflicting its bite4 ,it is seen from the size of a pin's head to that of a pea1 and is common in all the native huts in this country4 ,it sucks the blood until quite full1 and is then of a dark blue color1 and its skin so tough and yielding that it is impossible to burst it by any amount of squeezing with the fingers4 ,i had felt the effects of its bite in former years1 and eschewed all native huts ever after2 but as ,i was here again assailed in a ,european house1 ,i shall detail the effects of the bite4 ,these are a tingling sensation of mingled pain and itching1 which commences ascending the limb until the poison imbibed reaches the abdomen1 where it soon causes violent vomiting and purging4 ,where these effects do not follow1 as we found afterward at ,tete1 fever sets in2 and ,i was assured by intelligent ,portuguese there that death has sometimes been the result of this fever4 ,the anxiety my friends at ,tete manifested to keep my men out of the reach of the tampans of the village made it evident that they had seen cause to dread this insignificant insect4 ,the only inconvenience ,i afterward suffered from this bite was the continuance of the tingling sensation in the point bitten for about a week4 ,,may #ab,,th4 ,as we were about to start this morning1 the commandant1 ,senhor ,arsenio1 provided bread and meat most bountifully for my use on the way to the next station1 and sent two militia soldiers as guides1 instead of our ,cassange corporal1 who left us here4 ,about midday we asked for shelter from the sun in the house of ,senhor ,mellot1 at ,zangu1 and1 though ,i was unable to sit and engage in conversation1 ,i found1 on rising from his couch1 that he had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for my use2 and at parting he gave me a glass of wine1 which prevented the violent fit of shivering ,i expected that afternoon4 ,the universal hospitality of the ,portuguese was most gratifying1 as it was quite unexpected2 and even now1 as ,i copy my journal1 ,i remember it all with a glow of gratitude4 ,we spent ,sunday1 the #adth of ,may1 at ,cabinda1 which is one of the stations of the sub-commandants1 who are placed at different points in each district of ,angola as assistants of the head-commandant1 or chefe4 ,it is situated in a beautiful glen1 and surrounded by plantations of bananas and manioc4 ,the country was gradually becoming more picturesque the farther we proceeded west4 ,the ranges of lofty blue mountains of ,libollo1 which1 in coming toward ,ambaca1 we had seen thirty or forty miles to our south1 were now shut from our view by others nearer at hand1 and the gray ranges of ,cahenda and ,kiwe1 which1 while we were in ,ambaca1 stood clearly defined eight or ten miles off to the north1 were now close upon our right4 ,as we looked back toward the open pastoral country of ,ambaca1 the broad green gently undulating plains seemed in a hollow surrounded on all sides by rugged mountains1 and as we went westward we were entering upon quite a wild-looking mountainous district1 called ,golungo ,alto4 ,we met numbers of ,mambari on their way back to ,bihe4 ,some of them had belonged to the parties which had penetrated as far as ,linyanti1 and foolishly showed their displeasure at the prospect of the ,makololo preferring to go to the coast markets themselves to intrusting them with their ivory4 ,the ,mambari repeated the tale of the mode in which the white men are said to trade4 ,the ivory is left on the shore in the evening1 and next morning the seller finds a quantity of goods placed there in its stead by the white men who live in the sea4 ,now1 added they to my men1 how can you ,makololo trade with these ',mermen'8 ,can you enter into the sea1 and tell them to come ashore8 ,it was remarkable to hear this idea repeated so near the sea as we now were4 ,my men replied that they only wanted to see for themselves2 and1 as they were now getting some light on the nature of the trade carried on by the ,mambari1 they were highly amused on perceiving the reasons why the ,mambari would rather have met them on the ,zambesi than so near the sea-coast4 ,there is something so exhilarating to one of ,highland blood in being near or on high mountains1 that ,i forgot my fever as we wended our way among the lofty tree-covered masses of mica schist which form the highlands around the romantic residence of the chefe of ,golungo ,alto4 7,lat4 #i;d #h' #cj ,s41 long4 #ae;d #b' ,e47 ,the whole district is extremely beautiful4 ,the hills are all bedecked with trees of various hues of foliage1 and among them towers the graceful palm1 which yields the oil of commerce for making our soaps1 and the intoxicating toddy4 ,some clusters of hills look like the waves of the sea driven into a narrow open bay1 and have assumed the same form as if1 when all were chopping up perpendicularly1 they had suddenly been congealed4 ,the cottages of the natives1 perched on the tops of many of the hillocks1 looked as if the owners possessed an eye for the romantic1 but they were probably influenced more by the desire to overlook their gardens1 and keep their families out of the reach of the malaria1 which is supposed to prevail most on the banks of the numerous little streams which run among the hills4 ,we were most kindly received by the commandant1 ,lieutenant ,antonio ,canto e ,castro1 a young gentleman whose whole subsequent conduct will ever make me regard him with great affection4 ,like every other person of intelligence whom ,i had met1 he lamented deeply the neglect with which this fine country has been treated4 ,this district contained by the last census #bf1jjj hearths or fires2 and if to each hearth we reckon four souls1 we have a population of #ajd1jjj4 ,the number of carregadores 7carriers7 who may be ordered out at the pleasure of government to convey merchandise to the coast is in this district alone about #fjjj1 yet there is no good road in existence4 ,this system of compulsory carriage of merchandise was adopted in consequence of the increase in numbers and activity of our cruisers1 which took place in #ahde4 ,each trader who went1 previous to that year1 into the interior1 in the pursuit of his calling1 proceeded on the plan of purchasing ivory and beeswax1 and a sufficient number of slaves to carry these commodities4 ,the whole were intended for exportation as soon as the trader reached the coast4 ,but when the more stringent measures of #ahde came into operation1 and rendered the exportation of slaves almost impossible1 there being no roads proper for the employment of wheel conveyances1 this new system of compulsory carriage of ivory and beeswax to the coast was resorted to by the government of ,loanda4 ,a trader who requires two or three hundred carriers to convey his merchandise to the coast now applies to the general government for aid4 ,an order is sent to the commandant of a district to furnish the number required4 ,each head man of the villages to whom the order is transmitted must furnish from five to twenty or thirty men1 according to the proportion that his people bear to the entire population of the district4 ,for this accommodation the trader must pay a tax to the government of #ajjj reis1 or about three shillings per load carried4 ,the trader is obliged to pay the carrier also the sum of #ej reis1 or about twopence a day1 for his sustenance4 ,and as a day's journey is never more than from eight to ten miles1 the expense which must be incurred for this compulsory labor is felt to be heavy by those who were accustomed to employ slave labor alone4 ,yet no effort has been made to form a great line of road for wheel carriages4 ,the first great want of a country has not been attended to1 and no development of its vast resources has taken place4 ,the fact1 however1 of a change from one system of carriage to another1 taken in connection with the great depreciation in the price of slaves near this coast1 proves the effectiveness of our efforts at repressing the slave-trade on the ocean4 ,the latitude of ,golungo ,alto1 as observed at the residence of the commandant1 was #i;d #h' #cj ,s41 longitude #ae;d #b' ,e4 ,a few days' rest with this excellent young man enabled me to regain much of my strength1 and ,i could look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his door4 ,we were quite shut in among green hills1 many of which were cultivated up to their tops with manioc1 coffee1 cotton1 ground-nuts1 bananas1 pine-apples1 guavas1 papaws1 custard-apples1 pitangas1 and jambos1 fruits brought from ,south ,america by the former missionaries4 ,the high hills all around1 with towering palms on many points1 made this spot appear more like the ,bay of ,rio de ,janeiro in miniature than any scene ,i ever saw2 and all who have seen that confess it to be unequaled in the world beside4 ,the fertility evident in every spot of this district was quite marvelous to behold1 but ,i shall reserve further notices of this region till our return from ,loanda4 ,we left ,golungo ,alto on the #bdth of ,may1 the winter in these parts4 ,every evening clouds come rolling in great masses over the mountains in the west1 and pealing thunder accompanies the fall of rain during the night or early in the morning4 ,the clouds generally remain on the hills till the morning is well spent1 so that we become familiar with morning mists1 a thing we never once saw at ,kolobeng4 ,the thermometer stands at #hj ,degrees by day1 but sinks as low as #gf ,degrees by night4 ,in going westward we crossed several fine little gushing streams which never dry4 ,they unite in the ,luinha 7pronounced ,lueenya7 and ,lucalla4 ,as they flow over many little cascades1 they might easily be turned to good account1 but they are all allowed to run on idly to the ocean4 ,we passed through forests of gigantic timber1 and at an open space named ,cambondo1 about eight miles from ,golungo ,alto1 found numbers of carpenters converting these lofty trees into planks1 in exactly the same manner as was followed by the illustrious ,robinson ,crusoe4 ,a tree of three or four feet in diameter1 and forty or fifty feet up to the nearest branches1 was felled4 ,it was then cut into lengths of a few feet1 and split into thick junks1 which again were reduced to planks an inch thick by persevering labor with the axe4 ,the object of the carpenters was to make little chests1 and they drive a constant trade in them at ,cambondo4 ,when finished with hinges1 lock1 and key1 all of their own manufacture1 one costs only a shilling and eightpence4 ,my men were so delighted with them that they carried several of them on their heads all the way to ,linyanti4 ,at ,trombeta we were pleased to observe a great deal of taste displayed by the sub-commandant in the laying out of his ground and adornment of his house with flowers4 ,this trifling incident was the more pleasing1 as it was the first attempt at neatness ,i had seen since leaving the establishment of ,mozinkwa in ,londa4 ,rows of trees had been planted along each side of the road1 with pine-apples and flowers between4 ,this arrangement ,i had an opportunity of seeing in several other districts of this country1 for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree if it is only kept from being choked by weeds4 ,this gentleman had now a fine estate1 which but a few years ago was a forest1 and cost him only #af ,pounds4 ,he had planted about #ijj coffee-trees upon it1 and as these begin to yield in three years from being planted1 and in six attain their maximum1 ,i have no doubt but that ere now his #af ,pounds yields him sixty fold4 ,all sorts of fruit-trees and grape-vines yield their fruit twice in each year1 without any labor or irrigation being bestowed on them4 ,all grains and vegetables1 if only sown1 do the same2 and if advantage is taken of the mists of winter1 even three crops of pulse may be raised4 ,cotton was now standing in the pods in his fields1 and he did not seem to care about it4 ,i understood him to say that this last plant flourishes1 but the wet of one of the two rainy seasons with which this country is favored sometimes proves troublesome to the grower4 ,i am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried1 but ,i saw both figs and grapes bearing well4 ,the great complaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry their produce to market4 ,here all kinds of food are remarkably cheap4 ,farther on we left the mountainous country1 and1 as we descended toward the west coast1 saw the lands assuming a more sterile1 uninviting aspect4 ,on our right ran the ,river ,senza1 which nearer the sea takes the name of ,bengo4 ,it is about fifty yards broad1 and navigable for canoes4 ,the low plains adjacent to its banks are protected from inundation by embankments1 and the population is entirely occupied in raising food and fruits for exportation to ,loanda by means of canoes4 ,the banks are infested by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes ,i ever met4 ,not one of our party could get a snatch of sleep4 ,i was taken into the house of a ,portuguese1 but was soon glad to make my escape and lie across the path on the lee side of the fire1 where the smoke blew over my body4 ,my host wondered at my want of taste1 and ,i at his want of feeling2 for1 to our astonishment1 he and the other inhabitants had actually become used to what was at least equal to a nail through the heel of one's boot1 or the tooth-ache4 ,as we were now drawing near to the sea1 my companions were looking at every thing in a serious light4 ,one of them asked me if we should all have an opportunity of watching each other at ,loanda4 ,suppose one went for water1 would the others see if he were kidnapped8 ,i replied1 ,i see what you are driving at2 and if you suspect me1 you may return1 for ,i am as ignorant of ,loanda as you are2 but nothing will happen to you but what happens to myself4 ,we have stood by each other hitherto1 and will do so to the last4 ,the plains adjacent to ,loanda are somewhat elevated and comparatively sterile4 ,on coming across these we first beheld the sea3 my companions looked upon the boundless ocean with awe4 ,on describing their feelings afterward1 they remarked that we marched along with our father1 believing that what the ancients had always told us was true1 that the world has no end2 but all at once the world said to us1 ',i am finished2 there is no more of me6' ,they had always imagined that the world was one extended plain without limit4 ,they were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering want1 and ,i was unable to allay their fears with any promise of supply1 for my own mind was depressed by disease and care4 ,the fever had induced a state of chronic dysentery1 so troublesome that ,i could not remain on the ox more than ten minutes at a time2 and as we came down the declivity above the city of ,loanda on the #cast of ,may1 ,i was laboring under great depression of spirits1 as ,i understood that1 in a population of twelve thousand souls1 there was but one genuine ,english gentleman4 ,i naturally felt anxious to know whether he were possessed of good-nature1 or was one of those crusty mortals one would rather not meet at all4 ,this gentleman1 ,mr4 ,gabriel1 our commissioner for the suppression of the slave-trade1 had kindly forwarded an invitation to meet me on the way from ,cassange1 but1 unfortunately1 it crossed me on the road4 ,when we entered his porch1 ,i was delighted to see a number of flowers cultivated carefully1 and inferred from this circumstance that he was1 what ,i soon discovered him to be1 a real whole-hearted ,englishman4 ,seeing me ill1 he benevolently offered me his bed4 ,never shall ,i forget the luxurious pleasure ,i enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good ,english couch1 after six months' sleeping on the ground4 ,i was soon asleep2 and ,mr4 ,gabriel1 coming in almost immediately1 rejoiced at the soundness of my repose4 ,chapter #bj4 ,continued ,sickness--,kindness of the ,bishop of ,angola and her ,majesty's ,officers--,mr4 ,gabriel's unwearied ,hospitality--,serious ,deportment of the ,makololo--,they visit ,ships of ,war--,politeness of the ,officers and ,men--,the ,makololo attend ,mass in the ,cathedral--,their ,remarks--,find ,employment in collecting ,firewood and unloading ,coal--,their superior ,judgment respecting ,goods--,beneficial ,influence of the ,bishop of ,angola--,the ,city of ,st4 ,paul de ,loanda--,the ,harbor--,custom-house--,no ,english ,merchants--,sincerity of the ,portuguese ,government in suppressing the ,slave-trade--,convict ,soldiers--,presents from ,bishop and ,merchants for ,sekeletu--,outfit--,leave ,loanda #bjth ,september1 #ahed--;,accompanied by ,mr4 ,gabriel as far as ,icollo i ,bengo--,sugar ,manufactory--,geology of this part of the ,country--,women spinning ,cotton--,its ,price--,native ,weavers--,market-places--,cazengo2 its ,coffee ,plantations--,south ,american ,trees--,ruins of ,iron ,foundry--,native ,miners--,the ,banks of the ,lucalla-- ,cottages with ,stages--,tobacco-plants--,town of ,massangano--,sugar and ,rice--,superior ,district for ,cotton--,portuguese ,merchants and foreign ,enterprise--,ruins--,the ,fort and its ancient ,guns--,former ,importance of ,massangano--,fires--,the ,tribe ,kisama--,peculiar ,variety of ,domestic ,fowl--,coffee ,plantations--,return to ,golungo ,alto--,self-complacency of the ,makololo--,fever--,jaundice--,insanity4 ,in the hope that a short enjoyment of ,mr4 ,gabriel's generous hospitality would restore me to my wonted vigor1 ,i continued under his roof2 but my complaint having been caused by long exposure to malarious influences1 ,i became much more reduced than ever1 even while enjoying rest4 ,several ,portuguese gentlemen called on me shortly after my arrival2 and the ,bishop of ,angola1 the ,right ,reverend ,joaquim ,moreira ,reis1 then the acting governor of the province1 sent his secretary to do the same1 and likewise to offer the services of the government physician4 ,some of her majesty's cruisers soon came into the port1 and1 seeing the emaciated condition to which ,i was reduced1 offered to convey me to ,st4 ,helena or homeward2 but1 though ,i had reached the coast1 ,i had found that1 in consequence of the great amount of forest1 rivers1 and marsh1 there was no possibility of a highway for wagons1 and ,i had brought a party of ,sekeletu's people with me1 and found the tribes near the ,portuguese settlement so very unfriendly1 that it would be altogether impossible for my men to return alone4 ,i therefore resolved to decline the tempting offers of my naval friends1 and take back my ,makololo companions to their chief1 with a view of trying to make a path from his country to the east coast by means of the great river ,zambesi or ,leeambye4 ,i1 however1 gladly availed myself of the medical assistance of ,mr4 ,cockin1 the surgeon of the ,polyphemus1 at the suggestion of his commander1 ,captain ,phillips4 ,mr4 ,cockin's treatment1 aided by the exhilarating presence of the warm-hearted naval officers1 and ,mr4 ,gabriel's unwearied hospitality and care1 soon brought me round again4 ,on the #adth ,i was so far well as to call on the bishop1 in company with my party1 who were arrayed in new robes of striped cotton cloth and red caps1 all presented to them by ,mr4 ,gabriel4 ,he received us1 as head of the provisional government1 in the grand hall of the palace4 ,he put many intelligent questions respecting the ,makololo1 and then gave them free permission to come to ,loanda as often as they pleased4 ,this interview pleased the ,makololo extremely4 ,every one remarked the serious deportment of the ,makololo4 ,they viewed the large stone houses and churches in the vicinity of the great ocean with awe4 ,a house with two stories was1 until now1 beyond their comprehension4 ,in explanation of this strange thing1 ,i had always been obliged to use the word for hut2 and as huts are constructed by the poles being let into the earth1 they never could comprehend how the poles of one hut could be founded upon the roof of another1 or how men could live in the upper story1 with the conical roof of the lower one in the middle4 ,some ,makololo1 who had visited my little house at ,kolobeng1 in trying to describe it to their countrymen at ,linyanti1 said1 ,it is not a hut2 it is a mountain with several caves in it4 ,commander ,bedingfeld and ,captain ,skene invited them to visit their vessels1 the ,pluto and ,philomel4 ,knowing their fears1 ,i told them that no one need go if he entertained the least suspicion of foul play4 ,nearly the whole party went2 and when on deck1 ,i pointed to the sailors1 and said1 ,now these are all my countrymen1 sent by our queen for the purpose of putting down the trade of those that buy and sell black men4 ,they replied1 ,truly6 they are just like you6 and all their fears seemed to vanish at once1 for they went forward among the men1 and the jolly tars1 acting much as the ,makololo would have done in similar circumstances1 handed them a share of the bread and beef which they had for dinner4 ,the commander allowed them to fire off a cannon2 and1 having the most exalted ideas of its power1 they were greatly pleased when ,i told them1 ,that is what they put down the slave-trade with4 ,the size of the brig-of-war amazed them4 ,it is not a canoe at all2 it is a town6 ,the sailors' deck they named the ,kotla2 and then1 as a climax to their description of this great ark1 added1 ,and what sort of a town is it that you must climb up into with a rope8 ,the effect of the politeness of the officers and men on their minds was most beneficial4 ,they had behaved with the greatest kindness to me all the way from ,linyanti1 and ,i now rose rapidly in their estimation2 for1 whatever they may have surmised before1 they now saw that ,i was respected among my own countrymen1 and always afterward treated me with the greatest deference4 ,on the #aeth there was a procession and service of the mass in the ,cathedral2 and1 wishing to show my men a place of worship1 ,i took them to the church1 which now serves as the chief one of the see of ,angola and ,congo4 ,there is an impression on some minds that a gorgeous ritual is better calculated to inspire devotional feelings than the simple forms of the ,protestant worship4 ,but here the frequent genuflexions1 changing of positions1 burning of incense1 with the priests' back turned to the people1 the laughing1 talking1 and manifest irreverence of the singers1 with firing of guns1 etc41 did not convey to the minds of my men the idea of adoration4 ,i overheard them1 in talking to each other1 remark that they had seen the white men charming their demons2 a phrase identical with one they had used when seeing the ,balonda beating drums before their idols4 ,in the beginning of ,august ,i suffered a severe relapse1 which reduced me to a mere skeleton4 ,i was then unable to attend to my men for a considerable time2 but when in convalescence from this last attack1 ,i was thankful to find that ,i was free from that lassitude which1 in my first recovery1 showed the continuance of the malaria in the system4 ,i found that my men1 without prompting1 had established a brisk trade in fire-wood4 ,they sallied forth at cock-crowing in the mornings1 and by daylight reached the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country1 collected a bundle of fire-wood1 and returned to the city4 ,it was then divided into smaller fagots1 and sold to the inhabitants2 and as they gave larger quantities than the regular wood-carriers1 they found no difficulty in selling4 ,a ship freighted with coal for the cruisers having arrived from ,england1 ,mr4 ,gabriel procured them employment in unloading her at sixpence a day4 ,they continued at this work for upward of a month1 and nothing could exceed their astonishment at the vast amount of cargo one ship contained4 ,as they themselves always afterward expressed it1 they had labored every day from sunrise to sunset for a moon and a half1 unloading1 as quickly as they could1 stones that burn1 and were tired out1 still leaving plenty in her4 ,with the money so obtained they purchased clothing1 beads1 and other articles to take back to their own country4 ,their ideas of the value of different kinds of goods rather astonished those who had dealt only with natives on the coast4 ,hearing it stated with confidence that the ,africans preferred the thinnest fabrics1 provided they had gaudy colors and a large extent of surface1 the idea was so new to my experience in the interior that ,i dissented1 and1 in order to show the superior good sense of the ,makololo1 took them to the shop of ,mr4 ,schut4 ,when he showed them the amount of general goods which they might procure at ,loanda for a single tusk1 ,i requested them1 without assigning any reason1 to point out the fabrics they prized most4 ,they all at once selected the strongest pieces of ,english calico and other cloths1 showing that they had regard to strength without reference to color4 ,i believe that most of the ,bechuana nation would have done the same4 ,but ,i was assured that the people near the coast1 with whom the ,portuguese have to deal1 have not so much regard to durability4 ,this probably arises from calico being the chief circulating medium2 quantity being then of more importance than quality4 ,during the period of my indisposition1 the bishop sent frequently to make inquiries1 and1 as soon as ,i was able to walk1 ,i went to thank him for his civilities4 ,his whole conversation and conduct showed him to be a man of great benevolence and kindness of heart4 ,alluding to my being a ,protestant1 he stated that he was a ,catholic from conviction2 and though sorry to see others1 like myself1 following another path1 he entertained no uncharitable feelings1 nor would he ever sanction persecuting measures4 ,he compared the various sects of ,christians1 in their way to heaven1 to a number of individuals choosing to pass down the different streets of ,loanda to one of the churches--all would arrive at the same point at last4 ,his good influence1 both in the city and the country1 is universally acknowledged3 he was promoting the establishment of schools1 which1 though formed more on the monastic principle than ,protestants might approve1 will no doubt be a blessing4 ,he was likewise successfully attempting to abolish the non-marriage custom of the country2 and several marriages had taken place in ,loanda among those who1 but for his teaching1 would have been content with concubinage4 ,st4 ,paul de ,loanda has been a very considerable city1 but is now in a state of decay4 ,it contains about twelve thousand inhabitants1 most of whom are people of color499 ,there are various evidences of its former magnificence1 especially two cathedrals1 one of which1 once a ,jesuit college1 is now converted into a workshop2 and in passing the other1 we saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding within its stately walls4 ,three forts continue in a good state of repair4 ,many large stone houses are to be found4 ,the palace of the governor and government offices are commodious structures1 but nearly all the houses of the native inhabitants are of wattle and daub4 ,trees are planted all over the town for the sake of shade1 and the city presents an imposing appearance from the sea4 ,it is provided with an effective police1 and the custom-house department is extremely well managed4 ,all parties agree in representing the ,portuguese authorities as both polite and obliging2 and if ever any inconvenience is felt by strangers visiting the port1 it must be considered the fault of the system1 and not of the men4 99 ,from the census of #ahej-ea we find the population of this city arranged thus3 #hcj whites1 only #afj of whom are females4 ,this is the largest collection of whites in the country1 for ,angola itself contains only about #ajjj whites4 ,there are #bdjj half-castes in ,loanda1 and only #abj of them slaves2 and there are #ijjj blacks1 more than #ejjj of whom are slaves4 ,the harbor is formed by the low1 sandy island of ,loanda1 which is inhabited by about #acjj souls1 upward of #fjj of whom are industrious native fishermen1 who supply the city with abundance of good fish daily4 ,the space between it and the main land1 on which the city is built1 is the station for ships4 ,when a high southwest wind blows1 the waves of the ocean dash over part of the island1 and1 driving large quantities of sand before them1 gradually fill up the harbor4 ,great quantities of soil are also washed in the rainy season from the heights above the city1 so that the port1 which once contained water sufficient to float the largest ships close to the custom-house1 is now at low water dry4 ,the ships are compelled to anchor about a mile north of their old station4 ,nearly all the water consumed in ,loanda is brought from the ,river ,bengo by means of launches1 the only supply that the city affords being from some deep wells of slightly brackish water4 ,unsuccessful attempts have been made by different governors to finish a canal1 which the ,dutch1 while in possession of ,loanda during the seven years preceding #afdh1 had begun1 to bring water from the ,river ,coanza to the city4 ,there is not a single ,english merchant at ,loanda1 and only two ,american4 ,this is the more remarkable1 as nearly all the commerce is carried on by means of ,english calico brought hither via ,lisbon4 ,several ,english houses attempted to establish a trade about #ahde1 and accepted bills on ,rio de ,janeiro in payment for their goods1 but the increased activity of our cruisers had such an effect upon the mercantile houses of that city that most of them failed4 ,the ,english merchants lost all1 and ,loanda got a bad name in the commercial world in consequence4 ,one of the arrangements of the custom-house may have had some influence in preventing ,english trade4 ,ships coming here must be consigned to some one on the spot2 the consignee receives one hundred dollars per mast1 and he generally makes a great deal more for himself by putting a percentage on boats and men hired for loading and unloading1 and on every item that passes through his hands4 ,the port charges are also rendered heavy by twenty dollars being charged as a perquisite of the secretary of government1 with a fee for the chief physician1 something for the hospital1 custom-house officers1 guards1 etc41 etc4 ,but1 with all these drawbacks1 the ,americans carry on a brisk and profitable trade in calico1 biscuit1 flour1 butter1 etc41 etc4 ,the ,portuguese home government has not generally received the credit for sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade which ,i conceive to be its due4 ,in #ahci1 my friend ,mr4 ,gabriel saw #cg slave-ships lying in this harbor1 waiting for their cargoes1 under the protection of the guns of the forts4 ,at that time slavers had to wait many months at a time for a human freight1 and a certain sum per head was paid to the government for all that were exported4 ,the duties derived from the exportation of slaves far exceeded those from other commerce1 and1 by agreeing to the suppression of this profitable traffic1 the government actually sacrificed the chief part of the export revenue4 ,since that period1 however1 the revenue from lawful commerce has very much exceeded that on slaves4 ,the intentions of the home ,portuguese government1 however good1 can not be fully carried out under the present system4 ,the pay of the officers is so very small that they are nearly all obliged to engage in trade2 and1 owing to the lucrative nature of the slave-trade1 the temptation to engage in it is so powerful1 that the philanthropic statesmen of ,lisbon need hardly expect to have their humane and enlightened views carried out4 ,the law1 for instance1 lately promulgated for the abolition of the carrier system 7carregadores7 is but one of several equally humane enactments against this mode of compulsory labor1 but there is very little probability of the benevolent intentions of the ,legislature being carried into effect4 ,loanda is regarded somewhat as a penal settlement1 and those who leave their native land for this country do so with the hope of getting rich in a few years1 and then returning home4 ,they have thus no motive for seeking the permanent welfare of the country4 ,the ,portuguese law preventing the subjects of any other nation from holding landed property unless they become naturalized1 the country has neither the advantage of native nor foreign enterprise1 and remains very much in the same state as our allies found it in #aege4 ,nearly all the ,european soldiers sent out are convicts1 and1 contrary to what might be expected from men in their position1 behave remarkably well4 ,a few riots have occurred1 but nothing at all so serious as have taken place in our own penal settlements4 ,it is a remarkable fact that the whole of the arms of ,loanda are every night in the hands of those who have been convicts4 ,various reasons for this mild behavior are assigned by the officers1 but none of these1 when viewed in connection with our own experience in ,australia1 appear to be valid4 ,religion seems to have no connection with the change4 ,perhaps the climate may have some influence in subduing their turbulent disposition1 for the inhabitants generally are a timid race2 they are not half so brave as our ,caffres4 ,the people of ,ambriz ran away like a flock of sheep1 and allowed the ,portuguese to take possession of their copper mines and country without striking a blow4 ,if we must have convict settlements1 attention to the climate might be of advantage in the selection4 ,here even bulls are much tamer than with us4 ,i never met with a ferocious one in this country1 and the ,portuguese use them generally for riding2 an ox is seldom seen4 ,the objects which ,i had in view in opening up the country1 as stated in a few notes of my journey1 published in the newspapers of ,angola1 so commended themselves to the general government and merchants of ,loanda1 that1 at the instance of his excellency the bishop1 a handsome present for ,sekeletu was granted by the ,board of ,public ,works 7,junta da ,fazenda ,publica74 ,it consisted of a colonel's complete uniform and a horse for the chief1 and suits of clothing for all the men who accompanied me4 ,the merchants also made a present1 by public subscription1 of handsome specimens of all their articles of trade1 and two donkeys1 for the purpose of introducing the breed into his country1 as tsetse can not kill this beast of burden4 ,these presents were accompanied by letters from the bishop and merchants2 and ,i was kindly favored with letters of recommendation to the ,portuguese authorities in ,eastern ,africa4 ,i took with me a good stock of cotton cloth1 fresh supplies of ammunition and beads1 and gave each of my men a musket4 ,as my companions had amassed considerable quantities of goods1 they were unable to carry mine1 but the bishop furnished me with twenty carriers1 and sent forward orders to all the commandants of the districts through which we were to pass to render me every assistance in their power4 ,being now supplied with a good new tent made by my friends on board the ,philomel1 we left ,loanda on the #bjth of ,september1 #ahed1 and passed round by sea to the mouth of the ,river ,bengo4 ,ascending this river1 we went through the district in which stand the ruins of the convent of ,st4 ,antonio2 thence into ,icollo i ,bengo1 which contains a population of #fecj blacks1 #agb mulattoes1 and #aa whites1 and is so named from having been the residence of a former native king4 ,the proportion of slaves is only #c4ch per cent4 of the inhabitants4 ,the commandant of this place1 ,laurence ,jose ,marquis1 is a frank old soldier and a most hospitable man2 he is one of the few who secure the universal approbation of their fellow-men for stern1 unflinching honesty1 and has risen from the ranks to be a major in the army4 ,we were accompanied thus far by our generous host1 ,edmund ,gabriel1 ,esq41 who1 by his unwearied attentions to myself1 and liberality in supporting my men1 had become endeared to all our hearts4 ,my men were strongly impressed with a sense of his goodness1 and often spoke of him in terms of admiration all the way to ,linyanti4 ,while here we visited a large sugar manufactory belonging to a lady1 ,donna ,anna da ,sousa4 ,the flat alluvial lands on the banks of the ,senza or ,bengo are well adapted for raising sugar-cane1 and this lady had a surprising number of slaves1 but somehow the establishment was far from being in a flourishing condition4 ,it presented such a contrast to the free-labor establishments of the ,mauritius1 which ,i have since seen1 where1 with not one tenth of the number of hands1 or such good soil1 a man of color had1 in one year1 cleared #ejjj ,pounds by a single crop1 that ,i quote the fact1 in hopes it may meet the eye of ,donna ,anna4 ,the water of the river is muddy1 and it is observed that such rivers have many more mosquitoes than those which have clear water4 ,it was remarked to us here that these insects are much more numerous at the period of new moon than at other times2 at any rate1 we were all thankful to get away from the ,senza and its insect plagues4 ,the whole of this part of the country is composed of marly tufa1 containing the same kind of shells as those at present alive in the seas4 ,as we advanced eastward and ascended the higher lands1 we found eruptive trap1 which had tilted up immense masses of mica and sandstone schists4 ,the mica schist almost always dipped toward the interior of the country1 forming those mountain ranges of which we have already spoken as giving a highland character to the district of ,golungo ,alto4 ,the trap has frequently run through the gorges made in the upheaved rocks1 and at the points of junction between the igneous and older rocks there are large quantities of strongly magnetic iron ore4 ,the clayey soil formed by the disintegration of the mica schist and trap is the favorite soil for the coffee2 and it is on these mountain sides1 and others possessing a similar red clay soil1 that this plant has propagated itself so widely4 ,the meadow-lands adjacent to the ,senza and ,coanza being underlaid by that marly tufa which abounds toward the coast1 and containing the same shells1 show that1 previous to the elevation of that side of the country1 this region possessed some deeply-indented bays4 #bh,,th ,,september1 ,,kalungwembo4--,we were still on the same path by which we had come1 and1 there being no mosquitoes1 we could now better enjoy the scenery4 ,ranges of hills occupy both sides of our path1 and the fine level road is adorned with a beautiful red flower named ,bolcamaria4 ,the markets or sleeping-places are well supplied with provisions by great numbers of women1 every one of whom is seen spinning cotton with a spindle and distaff1 exactly like those which were in use among the ancient ,egyptians4 ,a woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fields1 though with a pot on her head1 a child on her back1 and the hoe over her shoulder1 but she is employed in this way4 ,the cotton was brought to the market for sale1 and ,i bought a pound for a penny4 ,this was the price demanded1 and probably double what they ask from each other4 ,we saw the cotton growing luxuriantly all around the market-places from seeds dropped accidentally4 ,it is seen also about the native huts1 and1 so far as ,i could learn1 it was the ,american cotton1 so influenced by climate as to be perennial4 ,we met in the road natives passing with bundles of cops1 or spindles full of cotton thread1 and these they were carrying to other parts to be woven into cloth4 ,the women are the spinners1 and the men perform the weaving4 ,each web is about #e feet long1 and #ae or #ah inches wide4 ,the loom is of the simplest construction1 being nothing but two beams placed one over the other1 the web standing perpendicularly4 ,the threads of the web are separated by means of a thin wooden lath1 and the woof passed through by means of the spindle on which it has been wound in spinning4 ,the mode of spinning and weaving in ,angola1 and1 indeed1 throughout ,south ,central ,africa1 is so very like the same occupations in the hands of the ancient ,egyptians1 that ,i introduce a woodcut from the interesting work of ,sir ,gardner ,wilkinson4 ,the lower figures are engaged in spinning in the real ,african method1 and the weavers in the left-hand corner have their web in the ,angolese fashion499 99 ,unfortunately1 this woodcut can not be represented in this ,,ascii text4 ,the caption reads1 ',ancient ,spinning and ,weaving1 perpetuated in ,africa at the present day4 ,from ,wilkinson's ,ancient ,egyptians1 p4 #he1 #hf4' ,the web1 or cloth on the loom1 mentioned1 has the vertical threads1 or the warp1 hanging1 perhaps five feet1 from a horizontal beam4 ,the woof is passed through from side to side4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,numbers of other articles are brought for sale to these sleeping-places4 ,the native smiths there carry on their trade4 ,i bought ten very good table-knives1 made of country iron1 for twopence each4 ,labor is extremely cheap1 for ,i was assured that even carpenters1 masons1 smiths1 etc41 might be hired for fourpence a day1 and agriculturists would gladly work for half that sum499 99 ,in order that the reader may understand the social position of the people of this country1 ,i here give the census of the district of ,golungo ,alto for the year #ahed1 though the numbers are evidently not all furnished3 #bch householders or yeomen4 #dbbd patrons1 or head men of several hamlets4 #bc native chiefs or sovas4 #bib macotas or councilors4 #ehch carriers4 #abf carpenters4 #gb masons4 #cjj shoemakers4 #aha potters4 #be tailors4 #ab barbers4 #bjf iron-founders4 #dhf bellows-blowers4 #ehf coke-makers4 #agc iron-miners4 #ahd soldiers of militia4 #cfjc privileged gentlemen1 i4e41 who may wear boots4 #ah vagabonds4 #gag old men4 #ed blind men and women4 #ha lame men and women4 #ggj slave men4 #hjg slave women4 #iegh free women4 #cic possessors of land4 #cjj female gardeners4 #aci hunters of wild animals4 #ihj smiths4 #cad mat-makers4 #djfe males under #g years of age4 #fjab females under #g years of age4 ,these people possess #cjj idol-houses1 #fjj sheep1 #ejjj goats1 #ejj oxen1 #cih gardens1 #be1abj hearths4 ,the authorities find great difficulty in getting the people to furnish a correct account of their numbers4 ,this census is quoted merely for the purpose of giving a general idea of the employments of the inhabitants4 ,the following is taken from the census of ,icollo i ,bengo1 and is added for a similar reason3 #cbcb living without the marriage tie4 7,all those who have not been married by a priest are so distinguished47 #d orphans--#b black and #b white4 #i native chiefs4 #b carpenters4 #ba potters4 #aa tailors4 #b shoemakers4 #c barbers4 #e mat-makers4 #ab sack-makers4 #ba basket-makers4 ,the cattle in the district are3 #aj asses1 #dja oxen1 #dib cows1 #cicc sheep1 #afii goats1 #iji swine2 and as an annual tax is levied of sixpence per head on all stock1 it is probable that the returns are less than the reality4 ,being anxious to obtain some more knowledge of this interesting country and its ancient missionary establishments than the line of route by which we had come afforded1 ,i resolved to visit the town of ,massangano1 which is situated to the south of ,golungo ,alto1 and at the confluence of the rivers ,lucalla and ,coanza4 ,this led me to pass through the district of ,cazengo1 which is rather famous for the abundance and excellence of its coffee4 ,extensive coffee plantations were found to exist on the sides of the several lofty mountains that compose this district4 ,they were not planted by the ,portuguese4 ,the ,jesuit and other missionaries are known to have brought some of the fine old ,mocha seed1 and these have propagated themselves far and wide2 hence the excellence of the ,angola coffee4 ,some have asserted that1 as new plantations were constantly discovered even during the period of our visit1 the coffee-tree was indigenous2 but the fact that pine-apples1 bananas1 yams1 orange-trees1 custard apple-trees1 pitangas1 guavas1 and other ,south ,american trees1 were found by me in the same localities with the recently-discovered coffee1 would seem to indicate that all foreign trees must have been introduced by the same agency4 ,it is known that the ,jesuits also introduced many other trees for the sake of their timber alone4 ,numbers of these have spread over the country1 some have probably died out1 and others failed to spread1 like a lonely specimen which stands in what was the ,botanic ,garden of ,loanda1 and1 though most useful in yielding a substitute for frankincense1 is the only one of the kind in ,africa4 ,a circumstance which would facilitate the extensive propagation of the coffee on the proper clay soil is this3 ,the seed1 when buried beneath the soil1 generally dies1 while that which is sown broadcast1 with no covering except the shade of the trees1 vegetates readily4 ,the agent in sowing in this case is a bird1 which eats the outer rind1 and throws the kernel on the ground4 ,this plant can not bear the direct rays of the sun2 consequently1 when a number of the trees are discovered in the forest1 all that is necessary is to clear away the brushwood1 and leave as many of the tall forest-trees as will afford good shade to the coffee-plants below4 ,the fortunate discoverer has then a flourishing coffee plantation4 ,this district1 small though it be1 having only a population of #ac1hbb1 of whom ten only are white1 nevertheless yields an annual tribute to the government of thirteen hundred cotton cloths1 each #e feet by #ah or #bj inches1 of their own growth and manufacture4 ,accompanied by the commandant of ,cazengo1 who was well acquainted with this part of the country1 ,i proceeded in a canoe down the ,river ,lucalla to ,massangano4 ,this river is about #he yards wide1 and navigable for canoes from its confluence with the ,coanza to about six miles above the point where it receives the ,luinha4 ,near this latter point stand the strong1 massive ruins of an iron foundry1 erected in the times 7#agfh7 and by the order of the famous ,marquis of ,pombal4 ,the whole of the buildings were constructed of stone1 cemented with oil and lime4 ,the dam for water-power was made of the same materials1 and #bg feet high4 ,this had been broken through by a flood1 and solid blocks1 many yards in length1 were carried down the stream1 affording an instructive example of the transporting power of water4 ,there was nothing in the appearance of the place to indicate unhealthiness2 but eight ,spanish and ,swedish workmen1 being brought hither for the purpose of instructing the natives in the art of smelting iron1 soon fell victims to disease and irregularities4 ,the effort of the marquis to improve the mode of manufacturing iron was thus rendered abortive4 ,labor and subsistence are1 however1 so very cheap that almost any amount of work can be executed1 at a cost that renders expensive establishments unnecessary4 ,a party of native miners and smiths is still kept in the employment of the government1 who1 working the rich black magnetic iron ore1 produce for the government from #dhj to #ejj bars of good malleable iron every month4 ,they are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of a small fresh-water fish1 called ,cacusu1 a portion of the tax levied upon the fishermen of the ,coanza4 ,this fish is so much relished in the country that those who do not wish to eat them can easily convert them into money4 ,the commandant of the district of ,massangano1 for instance1 has a right to a dish of three hundred every morning1 as part of his salary4 ,shell-fish are also found in the ,coanza1 and the ,peixemulher1 or woman-fish of the ,portuguese1 which is probably a ,manatee4 ,the banks of the ,lucalla are very pretty1 well planted with orange-trees1 bananas1 and the palm 7',elaeis ,guineensis'7 which yields the oil of commerce4 ,large plantations of maize1 manioc1 and tobacco are seen along both banks1 which are enlivened by the frequent appearance of native houses imbosomed in dense shady groves1 with little boys and girls playing about them4 ,the banks are steep1 the water having cut out its bed in dark red alluvial soil4 ,before every cottage a small stage is erected1 to which the inhabitants may descend to draw water without danger from the alligators4 ,some have a little palisade made in the water for safety from these reptiles1 and others use the shell of the fruit of the baobab-tree attached to a pole about ten feet long1 with which1 while standing on the high bank1 they may draw water without fear of accident4 ,many climbing plants run up the lofty silk1 cotton1 and baobab trees1 and hang their beautiful flowers in gay festoons on the branches4 ,as we approach ,massangano1 the land on both banks of the ,lucalla becomes very level1 and large portions are left marshy after the annual floods2 but all is very fertile4 ,as an illustration of the strength of the soil1 ,i may state that we saw tobacco-plants in gardens near the confluence eight feet high1 and each plant had thirty-six leaves1 which were eighteen inches long by six or eight inches broad4 ,but it is not a pastoral district4 ,in our descent we observed the tsetse1 and consequently the people had no domestic animals save goats4 ,we found the town of ,massangano on a tongue of rather high land1 formed by the left bank of the ,lucalla and right bank of the ,coanza1 and received true ,portuguese hospitality from ,senhor ,lubata4 ,the town has more than a thousand inhabitants2 the district has #bh1jfc1 with only #cae slaves4 ,it stands on a mound of calcareous tufa1 containing great numbers of fossil shells1 the most recent of which resemble those found in the marly tufa close to the coast4 ,the fort stands on the south side of the town1 on a high perpendicular bank overhanging the ,coanza4 ,this river is here a noble stream1 about a hundred and fifty yards wide1 admitting navigation in large canoes from the bar at its mouth to ,cambambe1 some thirty miles above this town4 ,there1 a fine waterfall hinders farther ascent4 ,ten or twelve large canoes laden with country produce pass ,massangano every day4 ,four galleons were constructed here as long ago as #afej1 which must have been of good size1 for they crossed the ocean to ,rio ,janeiro4 ,massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice1 while ,cambambe is a very superior field for cotton2 but the bar at the mouth of the ,coanza would prevent the approach of a steamer into this desirable region1 though a small one could ply on it with ease when once in4 ,it is probable that the objects of those who attempted to make a canal from ,calumbo to ,loanda were not merely to supply that city with fresh water1 but to afford facilities for transportation4 ,the remains of the canal show it to have been made on a scale suited for the ,coanza canoes4 ,the ,portuguese began another on a smaller scale in #ahaa1 and1 after three years' labor1 had finished only #fjjj yards4 ,nothing great or useful will ever be effected here so long as men come merely to get rich1 and then return to ,portugal4 ,the latitude of the town and fort of ,massangano is #i;d #cg' #df ,s41 being nearly the same as that of ,cassange4 ,the country between ,loanda and this point being comparatively flat1 a railroad might be constructed at small expense4 ,the level country is prolonged along the north bank of the ,coanza to the edge of the ,cassange basin1 and a railway carried thither would be convenient for the transport of the products of the rich districts of ,cassange1 ,pungo ,andongo1 ,ambaca1 ,cambambe1 ,golungo ,alto1 ,cazengo1 ,muchima1 and ,calumbo2 in a word1 the whole of ,angola and independent tribes adjacent to this kingdom4 ,the ,portuguese merchants generally look to foreign enterprise and to their own government for the means by which this amelioration might be effected2 but1 as ,i always stated to them when conversing on the subject1 foreign capitalists would never run the risk1 unless they saw the ,angolese doing something for themselves1 and the laws so altered that the subjects of other nations should enjoy the same privileges in the country with themselves4 ,the government of ,portugal has indeed shown a wise and liberal policy by its permission for the alienation of the crown lands in ,angola2 but the law giving it effect is so fenced round with limitations1 and so deluged with verbiage1 that to plain people it seems any thing but a straightforward license to foreigners to become 'bona fide' landholders and cultivators of the soil4 ,at present the tolls paid on the different lines of roads for ferries and bridges are equal to the interest of large sums of money1 though but a small amount has been expended in making available roads4 ,there are two churches and a hospital in ruins at ,massangano2 and the remains of two convents are pointed out1 one of which is said to have been an establishment of black ,benedictines1 which1 if successful1 considering the materials the brethren had to work on1 must have been a laborious undertaking4 ,there is neither priest nor schoolmaster in the town1 but ,i was pleased to observe a number of children taught by one of the inhabitants4 ,the cultivated lands attached to all these conventual establishments in ,angola are now rented by the government of ,loanda1 and thither the bishop lately removed all the gold and silver vessels belonging to them4 ,the fort of ,massangano is small1 but in good repair2 it contains some very ancient guns1 which were loaded from the breech1 and must have been formidable weapons in their time4 ,the natives of this country entertain a remarkable dread of great guns1 and this tends much to the permanence of the ,portuguese authority4 ,they dread a cannon greatly1 though the carriage be so rotten that it would fall to pieces at the first shot2 the fort of ,pungo ,andongo is kept securely by cannon perched on cross sticks alone6 ,massangano was a very important town at the time the ,dutch held forcible possession of ,loanda and part of ,angola2 but when1 in the year #afdh1 the ,dutch were expelled from this country by a small body of ,portuguese1 under the ,governor ,salvador ,correa de ,sa ,benevides1 ,massangano was left to sink into its present decay4 ,since it was partially abandoned by the ,portuguese1 several baobab-trees have sprung up and attained a diameter of eighteen or twenty inches1 and are about twenty feet high4 ,no certain conclusion can be drawn from these instances1 as it is not known at what time after #afdh they began to grow2 but their present size shows that their growth is not unusually slow4 ,several fires occurred during our stay1 by the thatch having1 through long exposure to a torrid sun1 become like tinder4 ,the roofs became ignited without any visible cause except the intense solar rays1 and excited terror in the minds of the inhabitants1 as the slightest spark carried by the wind would have set the whole town in a blaze4 ,there is not a single inscription on stone visible in ,massangano4 ,if destroyed to-morrow1 no one could tell where it and most ,portuguese interior villages stood1 any more than we can do those of the ,balonda4 ,during the occupation of this town the ,coanza was used for the purpose of navigation1 but their vessels were so frequently plundered by their ,dutch neighbors that1 when they regained the good port of ,loanda1 they no longer made use of the river4 ,we remained here four days1 in hopes of obtaining an observation for the longitude1 but at this season of the year the sky is almost constantly overcast by a thick canopy of clouds of a milk-and-water hue2 this continues until the rainy season 7which was now close at hand7 commences4 ,the lands on the north side of the ,coanza belong to the ,quisamas 7,kisamas71 an independent tribe1 which the ,portuguese have not been able to subdue4 ,the few who came under my observation possessed much of the ,bushman or ,hottentot feature1 and were dressed in strips of soft bark hanging from the waist to the knee4 ,they deal largely in salt1 which their country produces in great abundance4 ,it is brought in crystals of about #ab inches long and #a-a_/b in diameter4 ,this is hawked about every where in ,angola1 and1 next to calico1 is the most common medium of barter4 ,the ,kisama are brave2 and when the ,portuguese army followed them into their forests1 they reduced the invaders to extremity by tapping all the reservoirs of water1 which were no other than the enormous baobabs of the country hollowed into cisterns4 ,as the ,kisama country is ill supplied with water otherwise1 the ,portuguese were soon obliged to retreat4 ,their country1 lying near to ,massangano1 is low and marshy1 but becomes more elevated in the distance1 and beyond them lie the lofty dark mountain ranges of the ,libollo1 another powerful and independent people4 ,near ,massangano ,i observed what seemed to be an effort of nature to furnish a variety of domestic fowls1 more capable than the common kind of bearing the heat of the sun4 ,this was a hen and chickens with all their feathers curled upward1 thus giving shade to the body without increasing the heat4 ,they are here named ,kisafu by the native population1 who pay a high price for them when they wish to offer them as a sacrifice1 and by the ,portuguese they are termed ,arripiada1 or shivering4 ,there seems to be a tendency in nature to afford varieties adapted to the convenience of man4 ,a kind of very short-legged fowl among the ,boers was obtained1 in consequence of observing that such were more easily caught for transportation in their frequent removals in search of pasture4 ,a similar instance of securing a variety occurred with the short-limbed sheep in ,america4 ,returning by ascending the ,lucalla into ,cazengo1 we had an opportunity of visiting several flourishing coffee plantations1 and observed that several men1 who had begun with no capital but honest industry1 had1 in the course of a few years1 acquired a comfortable subsistence4 ,one of these1 ,mr4 ,pinto1 generously furnished me with a good supply of his excellent coffee1 and my men with a breed of rabbits to carry to their own country4 ,their lands1 granted by government1 yielded1 without much labor1 coffee sufficient for all the necessaries of life4 ,the fact of other avenues of wealth opening up so readily seems like a providential invitation to forsake the slave-trade and engage in lawful commerce4 ,we saw the female population occupied1 as usual1 in the spinning of cotton and cultivation of their lands4 ,their only instrument for culture is a double-handled hoe1 which is worked with a sort of dragging motion4 ,many of the men were employed in weaving4 ,the latter appear to be less industrious than the former1 for they require a month to finish a single web4 ,there is1 however1 not much inducement to industry1 for1 notwithstanding the time consumed in its manufacture1 each web is sold for only two shillings4 ,on returning to ,golungo ,alto ,i found several of my men laid up with fever4 ,one of the reasons for my leaving them there was that they might recover from the fatigue of the journey from ,loanda1 which had much more effect upon their feet than hundreds of miles had on our way westward4 ,they had always been accustomed to moisture in their own well-watered land1 and we certainly had a superabundance of that in ,loanda4 ,the roads1 however1 from ,loanda to ,golungo ,alto were both hard and dry1 and they suffered severely in consequence2 yet they were composing songs to be sung when they should reach home4 ,the ,argonauts were nothing to them2 and they remarked very impressively to me1 ,it was well you came with ,makololo1 for no tribe could have done what we have accomplished in coming to the white man's country3 we are the true ancients1 who can tell wonderful things4 ,two of them now had fever in the continued form1 and became jaundiced1 the whites or conjunctival membrane of their eyes becoming as yellow as saffron2 and a third suffered from an attack of mania4 ,he came to his companions one day1 and said1 ,remain well4 ,i am called away by the gods6 and set off at the top of his speed4 ,the young men caught him before he had gone a mile1 and bound him4 ,by gentle treatment and watching for a few days he recovered4 ,i have observed several instances of this kind in the country1 but very few cases of idiocy1 and ,i believe that continued insanity is rare4 ,chapter #ba4 ,visit a deserted ,convent--,favorable ,report of ,jesuits and their ,teaching --,gradations of native ,society--,punishment of ,thieves--,palm-toddy2 its baneful ,effects--,freemasons--,marriages and ,funerals--,litigation--,mr4 ,canto's ,illness--,bad ,behavior of his ,slaves--,an ,entertainment--,ideas on ,free ,labor--,loss of ,american ,cotton-seed--,abundance of ,cotton in the country--,sickness of ,sekeletu's ,horse--,eclipse of the ,sun--,insects which distill ,water--,experiments with them--,proceed to ,ambaca--,sickly ,season--,office of ,commandant--,punishment of official ,delinquents-- ,present from ,mr4 ,schut of ,loanda--,visit ,pungo ,andongo--,its good ,pasturage1 ,grain1 ,fruit1 etc4--,the ,fort and columnar ,rocks--,the ,queen of ,jinga--,salubrity of ,pungo ,andongo--,price of a ,slave--,a ,merchant-prince--,his ,hospitality--,hear of the ,loss of my ,papers in ,forerunner--,narrow ,escape from an ,alligator--,ancient ,burial-places--,neglect of ,agriculture in ,angola--,manioc the staple ,product--,its ,cheapness--,sickness--,friendly ,visit from a colored ,priest--,the ,prince of ,congo--,no ,priests in the ,interior of ,angola4 ,while waiting for the recovery of my men1 ,i visited1 in company with my friend ,mr4 ,canto1 the deserted convent of ,st4 ,hilarion1 at ,bango1 a few miles northwest of ,golungo ,alto4 ,it is situated in a magnificent valley1 containing a population numbering #djjj hearths4 ,this is the abode of the ,sova1 or ,chief ,bango1 who still holds a place of authority under the ,portuguese4 ,the garden of the convent1 the church1 and dormitories of the brethren are still kept in a good state of repair4 ,i looked at the furniture1 couches1 and large chests for holding the provisions of the brotherhood with interest1 and would fain have learned something of the former occupants2 but all the books and sacred vessels had lately been removed to ,loanda1 and even the graves of the good men stand without any record3 their resting-places are1 however1 carefully tended4 ,all speak well of the ,jesuits and other missionaries1 as the ,capuchins1 etc41 for having attended diligently to the instruction of the children4 ,they were supposed to have a tendency to take the part of the people against the government1 and were supplanted by priests1 concerning whom no regret is expressed that they were allowed to die out4 ,in viewing the present fruits of former missions1 it is impossible not to feel assured that1 if the ,jesuit teaching has been so permanent1 that of ,protestants1 who leave the ,bible in the hands of their converts1 will not be less abiding4 ,the chief ,bango has built a large two-story house close by the convent1 but superstitious fears prevent him from sleeping in it4 ,the ,portuguese take advantage of all the gradations into which native society has divided itself4 ,this man1 for instance1 is still a sova or chief1 has his councilors1 and maintains the same state as when the country was independent4 ,when any of his people are guilty of theft1 he pays down the amount of goods stolen at once1 and reimburses himself out of the property of the thief so effectually as to be benefited by the transaction4 ,the people under him are divided into a number of classes4 ,there are his councilors1 as the highest1 who are generally head men of several villages1 and the carriers1 the lowest free men4 ,one class above the last obtains the privilege of wearing shoes from the chief by paying for it2 another1 the soldiers or militia1 pay for the privilege of serving1 the advantage being that they are not afterward liable to be made carriers4 ,they are also divided into gentlemen and little gentlemen1 and1 though quite black1 speak of themselves as white men1 and of the others1 who may not wear shoes1 as blacks4 ,the men of all these classes trust to their wives for food1 and spend most of their time in drinking the palm-toddy4 ,this toddy is the juice of the palm-oil-tree 7',elaeis ,guineensis'71 which1 when tapped1 yields a sweet1 clear liquid1 not at all intoxicating while fresh1 but1 when allowed to stand till the afternoon1 causes inebriation and many crimes4 ,this toddy1 called malova1 is the bane of the country4 ,culprits are continually brought before the commandants for assaults committed through its influence4 ,men come up with deep gashes on their heads2 and one1 who had burned his father's house1 ,i saw making a profound bow to ,mr4 ,canto1 and volunteering to explain why he did the deed4 ,there is also a sort of fraternity of freemasons1 named ,empacasseiros1 into which no one is admitted unless he is an expert hunter1 and can shoot well with the gun4 ,they are distinguished by a fillet of buffalo hide around their heads1 and are employed as messengers in all cases requiring express4 ,they are very trustworthy1 and1 when on active service1 form the best native troops the ,portuguese possess4 ,the militia are of no value as soldiers1 but cost the country nothing1 being supported by their wives4 ,their duties are chiefly to guard the residences of commandants1 and to act as police4 ,the chief recreations of the natives of ,angola are marriages and funerals4 ,when a young woman is about to be married1 she is placed in a hut alone and anointed with various unguents1 and many incantations are employed in order to secure good fortune and fruitfulness4 ,here1 as almost every where in the south1 the height of good fortune is to bear sons4 ,they often leave a husband altogether if they have daughters only4 ,in their dances1 when any one may wish to deride another1 in the accompanying song a line is introduced1 ,so and so has no children1 and never will get any4 ,she feels the insult so keenly that it is not uncommon for her to rush away and commit suicide4 ,after some days the bride elect is taken to another hut1 and adorned with all the richest clothing and ornaments that the relatives can either lend or borrow4 ,she is then placed in a public situation1 saluted as a lady1 and presents made by all her acquaintances are placed around her4 ,after this she is taken to the residence of her husband1 where she has a hut for herself1 and becomes one of several wives1 for polygamy is general4 ,dancing1 feasting1 and drinking on such occasions are prolonged for several days4 ,in case of separation1 the woman returns to her father's family1 and the husband receives back what he gave for her4 ,in nearly all cases a man gives a price for the wife1 and in cases of mulattoes1 as much as #fj ,pounds is often given to the parents of the bride4 ,this is one of the evils the bishop was trying to remedy4 ,in cases of death the body is kept several days1 and there is a grand concourse of both sexes1 with beating of drums1 dances1 and debauchery1 kept up with feasting1 etc41 according to the means of the relatives4 ,the great ambition of many of the blacks of ,angola is to give their friends an expensive funeral4 ,often1 when one is asked to sell a pig1 he replies1 ,i am keeping it in case of the death of any of my friends4 ,a pig is usually slaughtered and eaten on the last day of the ceremonies1 and its head thrown into the nearest stream or river4 ,a native will sometimes appear intoxicated on these occasions1 and1 if blamed for his intemperance1 will reply1 ,why6 my mother is dead6 as if he thought it a sufficient justification4 ,the expenses of funerals are so heavy that often years elapse before they can defray them4 ,these people are said to be very litigious and obstinate3 constant disputes are taking place respecting their lands4 ,a case came before the weekly court of the commandant involving property in a palm-tree worth twopence4 ,the judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case1 as the mere expenses of entering it would be much more than the cost of the tree4 ,oh no1 said he2 ,i have a piece of calico with me for the clerk1 and money for yourself4 ,it's my right2 ,i will not forego it4 ,the calico itself cost three or four shillings4 ,they rejoice if they can say of an enemy1 ,i took him before the court4 ,my friend ,mr4 ,canto1 the commandant1 being seized with fever in a severe form1 it afforded me much pleasure to attend ,,him in his sickness1 who had been so kind to ,,me in mine4 ,he was for some time in a state of insensibility1 and ,i1 having the charge of his establishment1 had thus an opportunity of observing the workings of slavery4 ,when a master is ill1 the slaves run riot among the eatables4 ,i did not know this until ,i observed that every time the sugar-basin came to the table it was empty4 ,on visiting my patient by night1 ,i passed along a corridor1 and unexpectedly came upon the washerwoman eating pine-apples and sugar4 ,all the sweetmeats were devoured1 and it was difficult for me to get even bread and butter until ,i took the precaution of locking the pantry door4 ,probably the slaves thought that1 as both they and the luxuries were the master's property1 there was no good reason why they should be kept apart4 ,debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoyment1 they took to killing the fowls and goats1 and1 when the animal was dead1 brought it to me1 saying1 ,we found this thing lying out there4 ,they then enjoyed a feast of flesh4 ,a feeling of insecurity prevails throughout this country4 ,it is quite common to furnish visitors with the keys of their rooms4 ,when called on to come to breakfast or dinner1 each locks his door and puts the key in his pocket4 ,at ,kolobeng we never locked our doors by night or by day for months together2 but there slavery is unknown4 ,the ,portuguese do not seem at all bigoted in their attachment to slavery1 nor yet in their prejudices against color4 ,mr4 ,canto gave an entertainment in order to draw all classes together and promote general good-will4 ,two sovas or native chiefs were present1 and took their places without the least appearance of embarrassment4 ,the ,sova of ,kilombo appeared in the dress of a general1 and the ,sova of ,bango was gayly attired in a red coat1 profusely ornamented with tinsel4 ,the latter had a band of musicians with him consisting of six trumpeters and four drummers1 who performed very well4 ,these men are fond of titles1 and the ,portuguese government humors them by conferring honorary captaincies1 etc43 the ,sova of ,bango was at present anxious to obtain the title of ,major of all the ,sovas4 ,at the tables of other gentlemen ,i observed the same thing constantly occurring4 ,at this meeting ,mr4 ,canto communicated some ideas which ,i had written out on the dignity of labor1 and the superiority of free over slave labor4 ,the ,portuguese gentlemen present were anxiously expecting an arrival of ,american cotton-seed from ,mr4 ,gabriel4 ,they are now in the transition state from unlawful to lawful trade1 and turn eagerly to cotton1 coffee1 and sugar as new sources of wealth4 ,mr4 ,canto had been commissioned by them to purchase three sugar-mills4 ,our cruisers have been the principal agents in compelling them to abandon the slave-trade2 and our government1 in furnishing them with a supply of cotton-seed1 showed a generous intention to aid them in commencing a more honorable course4 ,it can scarcely be believed1 however1 that after ,lord ,clarendon had been at the trouble of procuring fresh cotton-seed through our minister at ,washington1 and had sent it out to the care of ,h4 ,m4 ,commissioner at ,loanda1 probably from having fallen into the hands of a few incorrigible slave-traders1 it never reached its destination4 ,it was most likely cast into the sea of ,ambriz1 and my friends at ,golungo ,alto were left without the means of commencing a new enterprise4 ,mr4 ,canto mentioned that there is now much more cotton in the country than can be consumed2 and if he had possession of a few hundred pounds1 he would buy up all the oil and cotton at a fair price1 and thereby bring about a revolution in the agriculture of the country4 ,these commodities are not produced in greater quantity1 because the people have no market for those which now spring up almost spontaneously around them4 ,the above was put down in my journal when ,i had no idea that enlarged supplies of cotton from new sources were so much needed at home4 ,it is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance1 and cultivate beans1 potatoes1 and manioc sufficient only for their own consumption4 ,i have the impression that cotton1 which is deciduous in ,america1 is perennial here2 for the plants ,i saw in winter were not dead1 though going by the name ,algodao ,americana1 or ,american cotton4 ,the rents paid for gardens belonging to the old convents are merely nominal1 varying from one shilling to three pounds per annum4 ,the higher rents being realized from those in the immediate vicinity of ,loanda1 none but ,portuguese or half-castes can pay them4 ,when about to start1 the horse which the governor had kindly presented for ,sekeletu was seized with inflammation1 which delayed us some time longer1 and we ultimately lost it4 ,we had been careful to watch it when coming through the district of ,matamba1 where we had discovered the tsetse1 that no insect might light upon it4 ,the change of diet here may have had some influence in producing the disease2 for ,i was informed by ,dr4 ,welweitsch1 an able ,german naturalist1 whom we found pursuing his arduous labors here1 and whose life we hope may be spared to give his researches to the world1 that1 of fifty-eight kinds of grasses found at ,loanda1 only three or four species exist here1 and these of the most diminutive kinds4 ,the twenty-four different species of grass of ,golungo ,alto are nearly all gigantic4 ,indeed1 gigantic grasses1 climbers1 shrubs and trees1 with but few plants1 constitute the vegetation of this region4 ,,november #bj,,th4 ,an eclipse of the sun1 which ,i had anxiously hoped to observe with a view of determining the longitude1 happened this morning1 and1 as often took place in this cloudy climate1 the sun was covered four minutes before it began4 ,when it shone forth the eclipse was in progress1 and a few minutes before it should 7according to my calculations7 have ended the sun was again completely obscured4 ,the greatest patience and perseverance are required1 if one wishes to ascertain his position when it is the rainy season4 ,before leaving1 ,i had an opportunity of observing a curious insect1 which inhabits trees of the fig family 7',ficus'71 upward of twenty species of which are found here4 ,seven or eight of them cluster round a spot on one of the smaller branches1 and there keep up a constant distillation of a clear fluid1 which1 dropping to the ground1 forms a little puddle below4 ,if a vessel is placed under them in the evening1 it contains three or four pints of fluid in the morning4 ,the natives say that1 if a drop falls into the eyes1 it causes inflammation of these organs4 ,to the question whence is this fluid derived1 the people reply that the insects suck it out of the tree1 and our own naturalists give the same answer4 ,i have never seen an orifice1 and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much4 ,a similar but much smaller homopterous insect1 of the family ',cercopidae'1 is known in ,england as the frog-hopper 7',aphrophora spumaria'71 when full grown and furnished with wings1 but while still in the pupa state it is called ,cuckoo-spit1 from the mass of froth in which it envelops itself4 ,the circulation of sap in plants in our climate1 especially of the graminaceae1 is not quick enough to yield much moisture4 ,the ,african species is five or six times the size of the ,english4 ,in the case of branches of the fig-tree1 the point the insects congregate on is soon marked by a number of incipient roots1 such as are thrown out when a cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose of starting another tree4 ,i believe that both the ,english and ,african insects belong to the same family1 and differ only in size1 and that the chief part of the moisture is derived from the atmosphere4 ,i leave it for naturalists to explain how these little creatures distill both by night and day as much water as they please1 and are more independent than her majesty's steam-ships1 with their apparatus for condensing steam2 for1 without coal1 their abundant supplies of sea-water are of no avail4 ,i tried the following experiment3 ,finding a colony of these insects busily distilling on a branch of the ',ricinus communis'1 or castor-oil plant1 ,i denuded about #bj inches of the bark on the tree side of the insects1 and scraped away the inner bark1 so as to destroy all the ascending vessels4 ,i also cut a hole in the side of the branch1 reaching to the middle1 and then cut out the pith and internal vessels4 ,the distillation was then going on at the rate of one drop each #fg seconds1 or about #b ounces #e-a_/b drams in #bd hours4 ,next morning the distillation1 so far from being affected by the attempt to stop the supplies1 supposing they had come up through the branch from the tree1 was increased to a drop every #e seconds1 or #ab drops per minute1 making #a pint 7#af ounces7 in every #bd hours4 ,i then cut the branch so much that1 during the day1 it broke2 but they still went on at the rate of a drop every #e seconds1 while another colony on a branch of the same tree gave a drop every #ag seconds only1 or at the rate of about #aj ounces #d-d_/e drams in #bd hours4 ,i finally cut off the branch2 but this was too much for their patience1 for they immediately decamped1 as insects will do from either a dead branch or a dead animal1 which ,indian hunters soon know1 when they sit down on a recently-killed bear4 ,the presence of greater moisture in the air increased the power of these distillers3 the period of greatest activity was in the morning1 when the air and every thing else was charged with dew4 ,having but one day left for experiment1 ,i found again that another colony on a branch denuded in the same way yielded a drop every #b seconds1 or #d pints #aj ounces in #bd hours1 while a colony on a branch untouched yielded a drop every #aa seconds1 or #af ounces #b-ai_/bj drams in #bd hours4 ,i regretted somewhat the want of time to institute another experiment1 namely1 to cut a branch and place it in water1 so as to keep it in life1 and then observe if there was any diminution of the quantity of water in the vessel4 ,this alone was wanting to make it certain that they draw water from the atmosphere4 ,i imagine that they have some power of which we are not aware1 besides that nervous influence which causes constant motion to our own involuntary muscles1 the power of life-long action without fatigue4 ,the reader will remember1 in connection with this insect1 the case of the ants already mentioned4 ,,december #ad,,th4 ,both myself and men having recovered from severe attacks of fever1 we left the hospitable residence of ,mr4 ,canto with a deep sense of his kindness to us all1 and proceeded on our way to ,ambaca4 7,lat4 #i;d #af' #ce ,s41 long4 #ae;d #bc' ,e47 ,frequent rains had fallen in ,october and ,november1 which were nearly always accompanied with thunder4 ,occasionally the quantity of moisture in the atmosphere is greatly increased without any visible cause3 this imparts a sensation of considerable cold1 though the thermometer exhibits no fall of the mercury4 ,the greater humidity in the air1 affording a better conducting medium for the radiation of heat from the body1 is as dangerous as a sudden fall of the thermometer3 it causes considerable disease among the natives1 and this season is denominated ,carneirado1 as if by the disease they were slaughtered like sheep4 ,the season of these changes1 which is the most favorable for ,europeans1 is the most unhealthy for the native population2 and this is by no means a climate in which either natives or ,europeans can indulge in irregularities with impunity4 ,owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick1 we were able to march but short distances4 ,three hours and a half brought us to the banks of the ,caloi1 a small stream which flows into the ,senza4 ,this is one of the parts of the country reputed to yield petroleum1 but the geological formation1 being mica schist1 dipping toward the eastward1 did not promise much for our finding it4 ,our hospitable friend1 ,mr4 ,mellot1 accompanied us to another little river1 called the ,quango1 where ,i saw two fine boys1 the sons of the sub-commandant1 ,mr4 ,feltao1 who1 though only from six to eight years old1 were subject to fever4 ,we then passed on in the bright sunlight1 the whole country looking so fresh and green after the rains1 and every thing so cheering1 one could not but wonder to find it so feverish4 ,we found1 on reaching ,ambaca1 that the gallant old soldier1 ,laurence ,jose ,marquis1 had1 since our passing ,icollo i ,bengo1 been promoted1 on account of his stern integrity1 to the government of this important district4 ,the office of commandant is much coveted by the officers of the line who come to ,angola1 not so much for the salary as for the perquisites1 which1 when managed skillfully1 in the course of a few years make one rich4 ,an idea may be formed of the conduct of some of these officials from the following extract from the ,boletin of ,loanda of the #bhth of ,october1 #ahed3 ,the acting governor-general of the province of ,angola and its dependencies determines as follows3 ,having instituted an investigation 7,syndecancia7 against the commandant of the fort of----1 a captain of the army of ,portugal in commission in this province1----1 on account of numerous complaints1 which have come before this government1 of violences and extortions practiced by the said commandant1 and those complaints appearing by the result of the investigation to be well founded1 it will be convenient to exonerate the captain referred to from the command of the fort of----1 to which he had been nominated by the portfolio of this general government1 ,no4 #da1 of #bgth ,december of the past year2 and if not otherwise determined1 the same official shall be judged by a council of war for the criminal acts which are to him attributed4 ,even this public mention of his crimes attaches no stigma to the man's character4 ,the council of war1 by which these delinquents always prefer to be judged1 is composed of men who eagerly expect to occupy the post of commandant themselves1 and anticipate their own trial for similar acts at some future time4 ,the severest sentence a council of war awards is a few weeks' suspension from office in his regiment4 ,this want of official integrity1 which is not at all attributable to the home government of ,portugal1 would prove a serious impediment in the way of foreign enterprise developing the resources of this rich province4 ,and to this cause1 indeed1 may be ascribed the failure of the ,portuguese laws for the entire suppression of the slave-trade4 ,the officers ought to receive higher pay1 if integrity is expected from them4 ,at present1 a captain's pay for a year will only keep him in good uniform4 ,the high pay our own officers receive has manifest advantages4 ,before leaving ,ambaca we received a present of ten head of cattle from ,mr4 ,schut of ,loanda1 and1 as it shows the cheapness of provisions here1 ,i may mention that the cost was only about a guinea per head4 ,on crossing the ,lucalla we made a detour to the south1 in order to visit the famous rocks of ,pungo ,andongo4 ,as soon as we crossed the rivulet ,lotete1 a change in the vegetation of the country was apparent4 ,we found trees identical with those to be seen south of the ,chobe4 ,the grass1 too1 stands in tufts1 and is of that kind which the natives consider to be best adapted for cattle4 ,two species of grape-bearing vines abound every where in this district1 and the influence of the good pasturage is seen in the plump condition of the cattle4 ,in all my previous inquiries respecting the vegetable products of ,angola1 ,i was invariably directed to ,pungo ,andongo4 ,do you grow wheat8 ,oh1 yes1 in ,pungo ,andongo4--,grapes1 figs1 or peaches8 ,oh1 yes1 in ,pungo ,andongo4--,do you make butter1 cheese1 etc48 ,the uniform answer was1 ,oh1 yes1 there is abundance of all these in ,pungo ,andongo4 ,but when we arrived here1 we found that the answers all referred to the activity of one man1 ,colonel ,manuel ,antonio ,pires4 ,the presence of the wild grape shows that vineyards might be cultivated with success2 the wheat grows well without irrigation2 and any one who tasted the butter and cheese at the table of ,colonel ,pires would prefer them to the stale produce of the ,irish dairy1 in general use throughout that province4 ,the cattle in this country are seldom milked1 on account of the strong prejudice which the ,portuguese entertain against the use of milk4 ,they believe that it may be used with safety in the morning1 but1 if taken after midday1 that it will cause fever4 ,it seemed to me that there was not much reason for carefully avoiding a few drops in their coffee1 after having devoured ten times the amount in the shape of cheese at dinner4 ,the fort of ,pungo ,andongo 7lat4 #i;d #db' #ad ,s41 long4 #ae;d #cj' ,e47 is situated in the midst of a group of curious columnar-shaped rocks1 each of which is upward of three hundred feet in height4 ,they are composed of conglomerate1 made up of a great variety of rounded pieces in a matrix of dark red sandstone4 ,they rest on a thick stratum of this last rock1 with very few of the pebbles in its substance4 ,on this a fossil palm has been found1 and if of the same age as those on the eastern side of the continent1 on which similar palms now lie1 there may be coal underneath this1 as well as under that at ,tete4 ,the asserted existence of petroleum springs at ,dande1 and near ,cambambe1 would seem to indicate the presence of this useful mineral1 though ,i am not aware of any one having actually seen a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in ,angola1 as we have at ,tete4 ,the gigantic pillars of ,pungo ,andongo have been formed by a current of the sea coming from the ,s4,s4,e42 for1 seen from the top1 they appear arranged in that direction1 and must have withstood the surges of the ocean at a period of our world's history1 when the relations of land and sea were totally different from what they are now1 and long before the morning stars sang together1 and all the sons of ,god shouted for joy to see the abodes prepared which man was soon to fill4 ,the imbedded pieces in the conglomerate are of gneiss1 clay shale1 mica and sandstone schists1 trap1 and porphyry1 most of which are large enough to give the whole the appearance of being the only remaining vestiges of vast primaeval banks of shingle4 ,several little streams run among these rocks1 and in the central part of the pillars stands the village1 completely environed by well-nigh inaccessible rocks4 ,the pathways into the village might be defended by a small body of troops against an army2 and this place was long the stronghold of the tribe called ,jinga1 the original possessors of the country4 ,we were shown a footprint carved on one of these rocks4 ,it is spoken of as that of a famous queen1 who reigned over all this region4 ,in looking at these rude attempts at commemoration1 one feels the value of letters4 ,in the history of ,angola we find that the famous queen ,donna ,anna de ,souza came from the vicinity1 as embassadress from her brother1 ,gola ,bandy1 ,king of the ,jinga1 to ,loanda1 in #afba1 to sue for peace1 and astonished the governor by the readiness of her answers4 ,the governor proposed1 as a condition of peace1 the payment by the ,jinga of an annual tribute4 ,people talk of tribute after they have conquered1 and not before it2 we come to talk of peace1 not of subjection1 was the ready answer4 ,the governor was as much nonplussed as our ,cape governors often are when they tell the ,caffres to put it all down in writing1 and they will then be able to answer them4 ,she remained some time in ,loanda1 gained all she sought1 and1 after being taught by the missionaries1 was baptized1 and returned to her own country with honor4 ,she succeeded to the kingdom on the death of her brother1 whom it was supposed she poisoned1 but in a subsequent war with the ,portuguese she lost nearly all her army in a great battle fought in #afbg4 ,she returned to the ,church after a long period of apostasy1 and died in extreme old age2 and the ,jinga still live as an independent people to the north of this their ancient country4 ,no ,african tribe has ever been destroyed4 ,in former times the ,portuguese imagined that this place was particularly unhealthy1 and banishment to the black rocks of ,pungo ,andongo was thought by their judges to be a much severer sentence than transportation to any part of the coast2 but this district is now well known to be the most healthy part of ,angola4 ,the water is remarkably pure1 the soil is light1 and the country open and undulating1 with a general slope down toward the ,river ,coanza1 a few miles distant4 ,that river is the southern boundary of the ,portuguese1 and beyond1 to the ,s4 and ,s4,w41 we see the high mountains of the ,libollo4 ,on the ,s4,e4 we have also a mountainous country1 inhabited by the ,kimbonda or ,ambonda1 who are said by ,colonel ,pires to be a very brave and independent people1 but hospitable and fair in their dealings4 ,they are rich in cattle1 and their country produces much beeswax1 which is carefully collected1 and brought to the ,portuguese1 with whom they have always been on good terms4 ,the ,ako 7,haco71 a branch of this family1 inhabit the left bank of the ,coanza above this village1 who1 instead of bringing slaves for sale1 as formerly1 now occasionally bring wax for the purchase of a slave from the ,portuguese4 ,i saw a boy sold for twelve shillings3 he said that he belonged to the country of ,matiamvo4 ,here ,i bought a pair of well-made boots1 of good tanned leather1 which reached above the knee1 for five shillings and eightpence1 and that was just the price given for one pound of ivory by ,mr4 ,pires2 consequently1 the boy was worth two pairs of boots1 or two pounds of ivory4 ,the ,libollo on the ,s4 have not so good a character1 but the ,coanza is always deep enough to form a line of defense4 ,colonel ,pires is a good example of what an honest industrious man in this country may become4 ,he came as a servant in a ship1 and1 by a long course of persevering labor1 has raised himself to be the richest merchant in ,angola4 ,he possesses some thousands of cattle2 and1 on any emergency1 can appear in the field with several hundred armed slaves4 ,while enjoying the hospitality of this merchant-prince in his commodious residence1 which is outside the rocks1 and commands a beautiful view of all the adjacent country1 ,i learned that all my dispatches1 maps1 and journal had gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail-packet ,forerunner4 ,i felt so glad that my friend ,lieutenant ,bedingfeld1 to whose care ,i had committed them1 though in the most imminent danger1 had not shared a similar fate1 that ,i was at once reconciled to the labor of rewriting4 ,i availed myself of the kindness of ,colonel ,pires1 and remained till the end of the year reproducing my lost papers4 ,colonel ,pires having another establishment on the banks of the ,coanza1 about six miles distant1 ,i visited it with him about once a week for the purpose of recreation4 ,the difference of temperature caused by the lower altitude was seen in the cashew-trees2 for while1 near the rocks1 these trees were but coming into flower1 those at the lower station were ripening their fruit4 ,cocoanut trees and bananas bear well at the lower station1 but yield little or no fruit at the upper4 ,the difference indicated by the thermometer was #g ,deg4 ,the general range near the rocks was #fg ,deg4 at #g ,a4,m41 #gd ,deg4 at midday1 and #gb ,deg4 in the evening4 ,a slave-boy belonging to ,colonel ,pires1 having stolen and eaten some lemons in the evening1 went to the river to wash his mouth1 so as not to be detected by the flavor4 ,an alligator seized him and carried him to an island in the middle of the stream2 there the boy grasped hold of the reeds1 and baffled all the efforts of the reptile to dislodge him1 till his companions1 attracted by his cries1 came in a canoe to his assistance4 ,the alligator at once let go his hold2 for1 when out of his own element1 he is cowardly4 ,the boy had many marks of the teeth in his abdomen and thigh1 and those of the claws on his legs and arms4 ,the slaves in ,colonel ,pires' establishments appeared more like free servants than any ,i had elsewhere seen4 ,every thing was neat and clean1 while generally1 where slaves are the only domestics1 there is an aspect of slovenliness1 as if they went on the principle of always doing as little for their masters as possible4 ,in the country near to this station were a large number of the ancient burial-places of the ,jinga4 ,these are simply large mounds of stones1 with drinking and cooking vessels of rude pottery on them4 ,some are arranged in a circular form1 two or three yards in diameter1 and shaped like a haycock4 ,there is not a single vestige of any inscription4 ,the natives of ,angola generally have a strange predilection for bringing their dead to the sides of the most frequented paths4 ,they have a particular anxiety to secure the point where cross-roads meet4 ,on and around the graves are planted tree euphorbias and other species of that family4 ,on the grave itself they also place water-bottles1 broken pipes1 cooking vessels1 and sometimes a little bow and arrow4 ,the ,portuguese government1 wishing to prevent this custom1 affixed a penalty on any one burying in the roads1 and appointed places of public sepulture in every district in the country4 ,the people persist1 however1 in spite of the most stringent enforcement of the law1 to follow their ancient custom4 ,the country between the ,coanza and ,pungo ,andongo is covered with low trees1 bushes1 and fine pasturage4 ,in the latter1 we were pleased to see our old acquaintances1 the gaudy gladiolus1 ,amaryllis toxicaria1 hymanthus1 and other bulbs in as flourishing a condition as at the ,cape4 ,it is surprising that so little has been done in the way of agriculture in ,angola4 ,raising wheat by means of irrigation has never been tried2 no plow is ever used2 and the only instrument is the native hoe1 in the hands of slaves4 ,the chief object of agriculture is the manioc1 which does not contain nutriment sufficient to give proper stamina to the people4 ,the half-caste ,portuguese have not so much energy as their fathers4 ,they subsist chiefly on the manioc1 and1 as that can be eaten either raw1 roasted1 or boiled1 as it comes from the ground2 or fermented in water1 and then roasted or dried after fermentation1 and baked or pounded into fine meal2 or rasped into meal and cooked as farina2 or made into confectionary with butter and sugar1 it does not so soon pall upon the palate as one might imagine1 when told that it constitutes their principal food4 ,the leaves boiled make an excellent vegetable for the table2 and1 when eaten by goats1 their milk is much increased4 ,the wood is a good fuel1 and yields a large quantity of potash4 ,if planted in a dry soil1 it takes two years to come to perfection1 requiring1 during that time1 one weeding only4 ,it bears drought well1 and never shrivels up1 like other plants1 when deprived of rain4 ,when planted in low alluvial soils1 and either well supplied with rain or annually flooded1 twelve1 or even ten months1 are sufficient to bring it to maturity4 ,the root rasped while raw1 placed upon a cloth1 and rubbed with the hands while water is poured upon it1 parts with its starchy glutinous matter1 and this1 when it settles at the bottom of the vessel1 and the water poured off1 is placed in the sun till nearly dry1 to form tapioca4 ,the process of drying is completed on an iron plate over a slow fire1 the mass being stirred meanwhile with a stick1 and when quite dry it appears agglutinated into little globules1 and is in the form we see the tapioca of commerce4 ,this is never eaten by weevils1 and so little labor is required in its cultivation that on the spot it is extremely cheap4 ,throughout the interior parts of ,angola1 fine manioc meal1 which could with ease have been converted either into superior starch or tapioca1 is commonly sold at the rate of about ten pounds for a penny4 ,all this region1 however1 has no means of transport to ,loanda other than the shoulders of the carriers and slaves over a footpath4 ,cambambe1 to which the navigation of the ,coanza reaches1 is reported to be thirty leagues below ,pungo ,andongo4 ,a large waterfall is the limit on that side2 and another exists higher up1 at the confluence of the ,lombe 7lat4 #i;d #da' #bf ,s41 and about long4 #af;d ,e471 over which hippopotami and elephants are sometimes drawn and killed4 ,the river between is rapid1 and generally rushes over a rocky bottom4 ,its source is pointed out as ,s4,e4 or ,s4,s4,e4 of its confluence with the ,lombe1 and near ,bihe4 ,the situation of ,bihe is not well known4 ,when at ,sanza we were assured that it lies nearly south of that point1 and eight days distant4 ,this statement seemed to be corroborated by our meeting many people going to ,matiamvo and to ,loanda from ,bihe4 ,both parties had come to ,sanza1 and then branched off1 one to the east1 the other to the west4 ,the source of the ,coanza is thus probably not far from ,sanza4 ,i had the happiness of doing a little good in the way of administering to the sick1 for there are no doctors in the interior of ,angola4 ,notwithstanding the general healthiness of this fine district and its pleasant temperature1 ,i was attacked by fever myself4 ,while confined to my room1 a gentleman of color1 a canon of the ,church1 kindly paid me a visit4 ,he was on a tour of visitation in the different interior districts for the purpose of baptizing and marrying4 ,he had lately been on a visit to ,lisbon in company with the ,prince of ,congo1 and had been invested with an order of honor by the ,king of ,portugal as an acknowledgment of his services4 ,he had all the appearance of a true negro1 but commanded the respect of the people2 and ,colonel ,p41 who had known him for thirty years1 pronounced him to be a good man4 ,there are only three or four priests in ,loanda1 all men of color1 but educated for the office4 ,about the time of my journey in ,angola1 an offer was made to any young men of ability who might wish to devote themselves to the service of the ,church1 to afford them the requisite education at the ,university of ,coimbra in ,portugal4 ,i was informed1 on what seemed good authority1 that the ,prince of ,congo is professedly a ,christian1 and that there are no fewer than twelve churches in that kingdom1 the fruits of the mission established in former times at ,san ,salvador1 the capital4 ,these churches are kept in partial repair by the people1 who also keep up the ceremonies of the ,church1 pronouncing some gibberish over the dead1 in imitation of the ,latin prayers which they had formerly heard4 ,many of them can read and write4 ,when a ,king of ,congo dies1 the body is wrapped up in a great many folds of cloth until a priest can come from ,loanda to consecrate his successor4 ,the ,king of ,congo still retains the title of ,lord of ,angola1 which he had when the ,jinga1 the original possessors of the soil1 owed him allegiance2 and1 when he writes to the ,governor of ,angola1 he places his own name first1 as if addressing his vassal4 ,the ,jinga paid him tribute annually in cowries1 which were found on the island that shelters ,loanda harbor1 and1 on refusing to continue payment1 the ,king of ,congo gave over the island to the ,portuguese1 and thus their dominion commenced in this quarter4 ,there is not much knowledge of the ,christian religion in either ,congo or ,angola1 yet it is looked upon with a certain degree of favor4 ,the prevalence of fever is probably the reason why no priest occupies a post in any part of the interior4 ,they come on tours of visitation like that mentioned1 and it is said that no expense is incurred1 for all the people are ready not only to pay for their services1 but also to furnish every article in their power gratuitously4 ,in view of the desolate condition of this fine missionary field1 it is more than probable that the presence of a few ,protestants would soon provoke the priests1 if not to love1 to good works4 ,chapter #bb4 ,leave ,pungo ,andongo--,extent of ,portuguese ,power--,meet ,traders and ,carriers--,red ,ants2 their fierce ,attack2 ,usefulness2 ,numbers--,descend the ,heights of ,tala ,mungongo--,fruit-trees in the ,valley of ,cassange--,edible ,muscle--,birds--,cassange ,village--,quinine and ,cathory-- ,sickness of ,captain ,neves' ,infant--,a ,diviner thrashed--,death of the ,child--,mourning--,loss of ,life from the ,ordeal--,wide-spread ,superstitions--,the ,chieftainship--,charms--,receive ,copies of the ,times--,trading ,pombeiros--,present for ,matiamvo--,fever after westerly ,winds--,capabilities of ,angola for producing the raw ,materials of ,english ,manufacture--,trading ,parties with ,ivory--,more ,fever--,a ,hyaena's ,choice--,makololo ,opinion of the ,portuguese--,cypriano's ,debt--,a ,funeral--,dread of disembodied ,spirits--,beautiful ,morning ,scenes-- ,crossing the ,quango--,ambakistas called ,the ,jews of ,angola--,fashions of the ,bashinje--,approach the ,village of ,sansawe--,his ,idea of ,dignity--,the ,pombeiros' ,present--,long ,detention--,a ,blow on the ,beard--,attacked in a ,forest--,sudden ,conversion of a fighting ,chief to ,peace ,principles by means of a ,revolver--,no ,blood shed in consequence--,rate of ,traveling--,slave ,women--,way of addressing ,slaves--,their thievish ,propensities--,feeders of the ,congo or ,zaire--,obliged to refuse ,presents--,cross the ,loajima--,appearance of ,people2 ,hair ,fashions4 ,,january #a1 #ahee4 ,having1 through the kindness of ,colonel ,pires1 reproduced some of my lost papers1 ,i left ,pungo ,andongo the first day of this year1 and at ,candumba1 slept in one of the dairy establishments of my friend1 who had sent forward orders for an ample supply of butter1 cheese1 and milk4 ,our path lay along the right bank of the ,coanza4 ,this is composed of the same sandstone rock1 with pebbles1 which forms the flooring of the country4 ,the land is level1 has much open forest1 and is well adapted for pasturage4 ,on reaching the confluence of the ,lombe1 we left the river1 and proceeded in a northeasterly direction1 through a fine open green country1 to the village of ,malange1 where we struck into our former path4 ,a few miles to the west of this a path branches off to a new district named the ,duke ,braganza4 ,this path crosses the ,lucalla and several of its feeders4 ,the whole of the country drained by these is described as extremely fertile4 ,the territory west of ,braganza is reported to be mountainous1 well wooded and watered2 wild coffee is abundant1 and the people even make their huts of coffee-trees4 ,the rivers ,dande1 ,senza1 and ,lucalla are said to rise in one mountain range4 ,numerous tribes inhabit the country to the north1 who are all independent4 ,the ,portuguese power extends chiefly over the tribes through whose lands we have passed4 ,it may be said to be firmly seated only between the rivers ,dande and ,coanza4 ,it extends inland about three hundred miles to the ,river ,quango2 and the population1 according to the imperfect data afforded by the census1 given annually by the commandants of the fifteen or sixteen districts into which it is divided1 can not be under #fjj1jjj souls4 ,leaving ,malange1 we passed quickly1 without deviation1 along the path by which we had come4 ,at ,sanza 7lat4 #i;d #cg' #df ,s41 long4 #af;d #ei' ,e47 we expected to get a little seed-wheat1 but this was not now to be found in ,angola4 ,the underlying rock of the whole of this section is that same sandstone which we have before noticed1 but it gradually becomes finer in the grain1 with the addition of a little mica1 the farther we go eastward2 we enter upon clay shale at ,tala ,mungongo 7lat4 #i;d #db' #cg ,s41 long4 #ag;d #bg' ,e471 and find it dipping a little to the west4 ,the general geological structure is a broad fringe of mica and sandstone schist 7about #ae ,deg4 ,e471 dipping in toward the centre of the country1 beneath these horizontal and sedimentary rocks of more recent date1 which form an inland basin4 ,the fringe is not1 however1 the highest in altitude1 though the oldest in age4 ,while at this latter place we met a native of ,bihe who has visited the country of ,shinte three times for the purposes of trade4 ,he gave us some of the news of that distant part1 but not a word of the ,makololo1 who have always been represented in the countries to the north as a desperately savage race1 whom no trader could visit with safety4 ,the half-caste traders whom we met at ,shinte's had returned to ,angola with sixty-six slaves and upward of fifty tusks of ivory4 ,as we came along the path1 we daily met long lines of carriers bearing large square masses of beeswax1 each about a hundred pounds weight1 and numbers of elephants' tusks1 the property of ,angolese merchants4 ,many natives were proceeding to the coast also on their own account1 carrying beeswax1 ivory1 and sweet oil4 ,they appeared to travel in perfect security2 and at different parts of the road we purchased fowls from them at a penny each4 ,my men took care to celebrate their own daring in having actually entered ships1 while the natives of these parts1 who had endeavored to frighten them on their way down1 had only seen them at a distance4 ,poor fellows6 they were more than ever attentive to me2 and1 as they were not obliged to erect sheds for themselves1 in consequence of finding them already built at the different sleeping-places1 all their care was bestowed in making me comfortable4 ,mashauana1 as usual1 made his bed with his head close to my feet1 and never during the entire journey did ,i have to call him twice for any thing ,i needed4 ,during our stay at ,tala ,mungongo1 our attention was attracted to a species of red ant which infests different parts of this country4 ,it is remarkably fond of animal food4 ,the commandant of the village having slaughtered a cow1 slaves were obliged to sit up the whole night1 burning fires of straw around the meat1 to prevent them from devouring most of it4 ,these ants are frequently met with in numbers like a small army4 ,at a little distance they appear as a brownish-red band1 two or three inches wide1 stretched across the path1 all eagerly pressing on in one direction4 ,if a person happens to tread upon them1 they rush up his legs and bite with surprising vigor4 ,the first time ,i encountered this by no means contemptible enemy was near ,cassange4 ,my attention being taken up in viewing the distant landscape1 ,i accidentally stepped upon one of their nests4 ,not an instant seemed to elapse before a simultaneous attack was made on various unprotected parts1 up the trowsers from below1 and on my neck and breast above4 ,the bites of these furies were like sparks of fire1 and there was no retreat4 ,i jumped about for a second or two1 then in desperation tore off all my clothing1 and rubbed and picked them off seriatim as quickly as possible4 ,ugh6 they would make the most lethargic mortal look alive4 ,fortunately1 no one observed this rencounter1 or word might have been taken back to the village that ,i had become mad4 ,i was once assaulted in a similar way when sound asleep at night in my tent1 and it was only by holding my blanket over the fire that ,i could get rid of them4 ,it is really astonishing how such small bodies can contain so large an amount of ill-nature4 ,they not only bite1 but twist themselves round after the mandibles are inserted1 to produce laceration and pain1 more than would be effected by the single wound4 ,frequently1 while sitting on the ox1 as he happened to tread near a band1 they would rush up his legs to the rider1 and soon let him know that he had disturbed their march4 ,they possess no fear1 attacking with equal ferocity the largest as well as the smallest animals4 ,when any person has leaped over the band1 numbers of them leave the ranks and rush along the path1 seemingly anxious for a fight4 ,they are very useful in ridding the country of dead animal matter1 and1 when they visit a human habitation1 clear it entirely of the destructive white ants and other vermin4 ,they destroy many noxious insects and reptiles4 ,the severity of their attack is greatly increased by their vast numbers1 and rats1 mice1 lizards1 and even the ',python natalensis'1 when in a state of surfeit from recent feeding1 fall victims to their fierce onslaught4 ,these ants never make hills like the white ant4 ,their nests are but a short distance beneath the soil1 which has the soft appearance of the abodes of ants in ,england4 ,occasionally they construct galleries over their path to the cells of the white ant1 in order to secure themselves from the heat of the sun during their marauding expeditions4 ,,january #ae,,th1 #ahee4 ,we descended in one hour from the heights of ,tala ,mungongo4 ,i counted the number of paces made on the slope downward1 and found them to be sixteen hundred1 which may give a perpendicular height of from twelve to fifteen hundred feet4 ,water boiled at #bjf ,degrees at ,tala ,mungongo above1 and at #bjh ,deg4 at the bottom of the declivity1 the air being at #gb ,deg4 in the shade in the former case1 and #id ,deg4 in the latter4 ,the temperature generally throughout the day was from #id ,deg4 to #ig ,deg4 in the coolest shade we could find4 ,the rivulets which cut up the valley of ,cassange were now dry1 but the ,lui and ,luare contained abundance of rather brackish water4 ,the banks are lined with palm1 wild date-trees1 and many guavas1 the fruit of which was now becoming ripe4 ,a tree much like the mango abounds1 but it does not yield fruit4 ,in these rivers a kind of edible muscle is plentiful1 the shells of which exist in all the alluvial beds of the ancient rivers as far as the ,kuruman4 ,the brackish nature of the water probably enables it to exist here4 ,on the open grassy lawns great numbers of a species of lark are seen4 ,they are black1 with yellow shoulders4 ,another black bird1 with a long tail 7',centropus ,senegalensis'71 floats awkwardly1 with its tail in a perpendicular position1 over the long grass4 ,it always chooses the highest points1 and is caught on them with bird-lime1 the long black tail-feathers being highly esteemed by the natives for plumes4 ,we saw here also the ,lehututu 7',tragopan ,leadbeaterii'71 a large bird strongly resembling a turkey2 it is black on the ground1 but when it flies the outer half of the wings are white4 ,it kills serpents1 striking them dexterously behind the head4 ,it derives its native name from the noise it makes1 and it is found as far as ,kolobeng4 ,another species like it is called the ,abyssinian hornbill4 ,before we reached ,cassange we were overtaken by the commandant1 ,senhor ,carvalho1 who was returning1 with a detachment of fifty men and a field-piece1 from an unsuccessful search after some rebels4 ,the rebels had fled1 and all he could do was to burn their huts4 ,he kindly invited me to take up my residence with him2 but1 not wishing to pass by the gentleman 7,captain ,neves7 who had so kindly received me on my first arrival in the ,portuguese possessions1 ,i declined4 ,senhor ,rego had been superseded in his command1 because the ,governor ,amaral1 who had come into office since my departure from ,loanda1 had determined that the law which requires the office of commandant to be exclusively occupied by military officers of the line should once more come into operation4 ,i was again most kindly welcomed by my friend1 ,captain ,neves1 whom ,i found laboring under a violent inflammation and abscess of the hand4 ,there is nothing in the situation of this village to indicate unhealthiness1 except1 perhaps1 the rank luxuriance of the vegetation4 ,nearly all the ,portuguese inhabitants suffer from enlargement of the spleen1 the effects of frequent intermittents1 and have generally a sickly appearance4 ,thinking that this affection of the hand was simply an effort of nature to get rid of malarious matter from the system1 ,i recommended the use of quinine4 ,he himself applied the leaf of a plant called cathory1 famed among the natives as an excellent remedy for ulcers4 ,the cathory leaves1 when boiled1 exude a gummy juice1 which effectually shuts out the external air4 ,each remedy1 of course1 claimed the merit of the cure4 ,many of the children are cut off by fever4 ,a fine boy of ,captain ,neves' had1 since my passage westward1 shared a similar fate4 ,another child died during the period of my visit4 ,during his sickness1 his mother1 a woman of color1 sent for a diviner in order to ascertain what ought to be done4 ,the diviner1 after throwing his dice1 worked himself into the state of ecstasy in which they pretend to be in communication with the ,barimo4 ,he then gave the oracular response that the child was being killed by the spirit of a ,portuguese trader who once lived at ,cassange4 ,the case was this3 on the death of the trader1 the other ,portuguese merchants in the village came together1 and sold the goods of the departed to each other1 each man accounting for the portion received to the creditors of the deceased at ,loanda4 ,the natives1 looking on1 and not understanding the nature of written mercantile transactions1 concluded that the merchants of ,cassange had simply stolen the dead man's goods1 and that now the spirit was killing the child of ,captain ,neves for the part he had taken in the affair4 ,the diviner1 in his response1 revealed the impression made on his own mind by the sale1 and likewise the native ideas of departed souls4 ,as they give the whites credit for greater stupidity than themselves in all these matters1 the mother of the child came1 and told the father that he ought to give a slave to the diviner as a fee to make a sacrifice to appease the spirit and save the life of the child4 ,the father quietly sent for a neighbor1 and1 though the diviner pretended to remain in his state of ecstasy1 the brisk application of two sticks to his back suddenly reduced him to his senses and a most undignified flight4 ,the mother of this child seemed to have no confidence in ,european wisdom1 and1 though ,i desired her to keep the child out of currents of wind1 she preferred to follow her own custom1 and even got it cupped on the cheeks4 ,the consequence was that the child was soon in a dying state1 and the father wishing it to be baptized1 ,i commended its soul to the care and compassion of ,him who said1 ,of such is the kingdom of heaven4 ,the mother at once rushed away1 and commenced that doleful wail which is so affecting1 as it indicates sorrow without hope4 ,she continued it without intermission until the child was buried4 ,in the evening her female companions used a small musical instrument1 which produced a kind of screeching sound1 as an accompaniment of the death wail4 ,in the construction of this instrument they make use of caoutchouc1 which1 with a variety of other gums1 is found in different parts of this country4 ,the intercourse which the natives have had with white men does not seem to have much ameliorated their condition4 ,a great number of persons are reported to lose their lives annually in different districts of ,angola by the cruel superstitions to which they are addicted1 and the ,portuguese authorities either know nothing of them1 or are unable to prevent their occurrence4 ,the natives are bound to secrecy by those who administer the ordeal1 which generally causes the death of the victim4 ,a person1 when accused of witchcraft1 will often travel from distant districts in order to assert her innocency and brave the test4 ,they come to a river on the ,cassange called ,dua1 drink the infusion of a poisonous tree1 and perish unknown4 ,a woman was accused by a brother-in-law of being the cause of his sickness while we were at ,cassange4 ,she offered to take the ordeal1 as she had the idea that it would but prove her conscious innocence4 ,captain ,neves refused his consent to her going1 and thus saved her life1 which would have been sacrificed1 for the poison is very virulent4 ,when a strong stomach rejects it1 the accuser reiterates his charge2 the dose is repeated1 and the person dies4 ,hundreds perish thus every year in the valley of ,cassange4 ,the same superstitious ideas being prevalent through the whole of the country north of the ,zambesi1 seems to indicate that the people must originally have been one4 ,all believe that the souls of the departed still mingle among the living1 and partake in some way of the food they consume4 ,in sickness1 sacrifices of fowls and goats are made to appease the spirits4 ,it is imagined that they wish to take the living away from earth and all its enjoyments4 ,when one man has killed another1 a sacrifice is made1 as if to lay the spirit of the victim4 ,a sect is reported to exist who kill men in order to take their hearts and offer them to the ,barimo4 ,the chieftainship is elective from certain families4 ,among the ,bangalas of the ,cassange valley the chief is chosen from three families in rotation4 ,a chief's brother inherits in preference to his son4 ,the sons of a sister belong to her brother2 and he often sells his nephews to pay his debts4 ,by this and other unnatural customs1 more than by war1 is the slave-market supplied4 ,the prejudices in favor of these practices are very deeply rooted in the native mind4 ,even at ,loanda they retire out of the city in order to perform their heathenish rites without the cognizance of the authorities4 ,their religion1 if such it may be called1 is one of dread4 ,numbers of charms are employed to avert the evils with which they feel themselves to be encompassed4 ,occasionally you meet a man1 more cautious or more timid than the rest1 with twenty or thirty charms round his neck4 ,he seems to act upon the principle of ,proclus1 in his prayer to all the gods and goddesses3 among so many he surely must have the right one4 ,the disrespect which ,europeans pay to the objects of their fear is to their minds only an evidence of great folly4 ,while here1 ,i reproduced the last of my lost papers and maps2 and as there is a post twice a month from ,loanda1 ,i had the happiness to receive a packet of the ,times1 and1 among other news1 an account of the ,russian war up to the terrible charge of the light cavalry4 ,the intense anxiety ,i felt to hear more may be imagined by every true patriot2 but ,i was forced to brood on in silent thought1 and utter my poor prayers for friends who perchance were now no more1 until ,i reached the other side of the continent4 ,a considerable trade is carried on by the ,cassange merchants with all the surrounding territory by means of native traders1 whom they term ,pombeiros4 ,two of these1 called in the history of ,angola the trading blacks 7os feirantes pretos71 ,pedro ,joao ,baptista and ,antonio ,jose1 having been sent by the first ,portuguese trader that lived at ,cassange1 actually returned from some of the ,portuguese possessions in the ,east with letters from the governor of ,mozambique in the year #ahae1 proving1 as is remarked1 the possibility of so important a communication between ,mozambique and ,loanda4 ,this is the only instance of native ,portuguese subjects crossing the continent4 ,no ,european ever accomplished it1 though this fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been ,,portuguese4 ,captain ,neves was now actively engaged in preparing a present1 worth about fifty pounds1 to be sent by ,pombeiros to ,matiamvo4 ,it consisted of great quantities of cotton cloth1 a large carpet1 an arm-chair with a canopy and curtains of crimson calico1 an iron bedstead1 mosquito curtains1 beads1 etc41 and a number of pictures rudely painted in oil by an embryo black painter at ,cassange4 ,matiamvo1 like most of the natives in the interior of the country1 has a strong desire to possess a cannon1 and had sent ten large tusks to purchase one2 but1 being government property1 it could not be sold3 he was now furnished with a blunderbuss1 mounted as a cannon1 which would probably please him as well4 ,senhor ,graca and some other ,portuguese have visited this chief at different times2 but no ,european resides beyond the ,quango2 indeed1 it is contrary to the policy of the government of ,angola to allow their subjects to penetrate further into the interior4 ,the present would have been a good opportunity for me to have visited that chief1 and ,i felt strongly inclined to do so1 as he had expressed dissatisfaction respecting my treatment by the ,chiboque1 and even threatened to punish them4 ,as it would be improper to force my men to go thither1 ,i resolved to wait and see whether the proposition might not emanate from themselves4 ,when ,i can get the natives to agree in the propriety of any step1 they go to the end of the affair without a murmur4 ,i speak to them and treat them as rational beings1 and generally get on well with them in consequence4 ,i have already remarked on the unhealthiness of ,cassange2 and ,captain ,neves1 who possesses an observing turn of mind1 had noticed that always when the west wind blows much fever immediately follows4 ,as long as easterly winds prevail1 all enjoy good health2 but in ,january1 ,february1 ,march1 and ,april1 the winds are variable1 and sickness is general4 ,the unhealthiness of the westerly winds probably results from malaria1 appearing to be heavier than common air1 and sweeping down into the valley of ,cassange from the western plateau1 somewhat in the same way as the carbonic acid gas from bean-fields is supposed by colliers to do into coal-pits4 ,in the west of ,scotland strong objections are made by that body of men to farmers planting beans in their vicinity1 from the belief that they render the mines unhealthy4 ,the gravitation of the malaria from the more elevated land of ,tala ,mungongo toward ,cassange is the only way the unhealthiness of this spot on the prevalence of the westerly winds can be accounted for4 ,the banks of the ,quango1 though much more marshy1 and covered with ranker vegetation1 are comparatively healthy2 but thither the westerly wind does not seem to convey the noxious agent4 ,,feb4 #bj,,th4 ,on the day of starting from ,cassange1 the westerly wind blew strongly1 and on the day following we were brought to a stand by several of our party being laid up with fever4 ,this complaint is the only serious drawback ,angola possesses4 ,it is in every other respect an agreeable land1 and admirably adapted for yielding a rich abundance of tropical produce for the rest of the world4 ,indeed1 ,i have no hesitation in asserting that1 had it been in the possession of ,england1 it would now have been yielding as much or more of the raw material for her manufactures as an equal extent of territory in the cotton-growing states of ,america4 ,a railway from ,loanda to this valley would secure the trade of most of the interior of ,south ,central ,africa499 99 ,the following statistics may be of interest to mercantile men4 ,they show that since the repression of the slave-trade in ,angola the value of the exports in lawful commerce has steadily augmented4 ,we have no returns since #ahej1 but the prosperity of legitimate trade has suffered no check4 ,the duties are noted in ,portuguese money1 milreis1 each of which is about three shillings in value4 ,return of the ,quantities and ,value of the ,staple ,articles1 the ,produce of the ,province of ,,angola1 exported from ,,st4 ,,paul ,,de ,,loanda between ,july #a1 #ahdh1 and ,june #cj1 #ahdi1 specifying the ,quantities and ,value of those exported in ,portuguese ,ships and in ,ships of other ,nations4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,in ,portuguese ,ships4 ,in ,ships of other ,nations4 ,articles4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,amount4 ,value4 ,amount4 ,value4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------- ,l4 s4 d4 ,l4 s4 d4 ,ivory4 4 4 ,cwt4 #aded #ce1cej #j #j #eae #ab1hge #j #j ,palm oil 4 #addj #b1afj #j #j #ffga #a qr4 #aj1jcf #ag #f ,coffee 4 4 #aeb #cjd #j #j #fhd #a1cfh #j #j ,hides4 4 4 ,no4 #ahcg #fcc #ag #f #hdi #cah #ag #f ,gum4 4 4 4 ,cwt4 #adg #bje #af #j #dgfc #f1ffh #d #j ,beeswax4 4 #aaji #f1fed #j #j #edd #c1bfd #j #j ,orchella 4 ,tons #fcj #bc1idj #j #j 4444 4444 -------------- -------------- #fi1bdg #ac #f #cd1ecj #ai #j ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,,total ,quantity and ,value of ,exports from ,,loanda4 ,l4 s4 d4 ,ivory 4 4 4 ,cwt4 #aifi 4 4 4 4 #dh1bbe #j #j ,palm oil4 4 #haaa #a qr4 4 4 4 4 #ab1aif #ag #f ,coffee4 4 4 #hcf 4 4 4 4 #a1fgb #j #j ,hides 4 4 4 ,no4 #bfhf 4 4 4 4 #ieb #ae #j ,gum 4 4 4 4 ,cwt4 #diaj 4 4 4 4 #f1hgd #j #j ,beeswax 4 4 #afec 4 4 4 4 #i1iah #j #j ,orchella4 4 ,tons #fcj 4 4 4 4 #bc1idj #j #j ------------- ,l4 #ajc1ggh #ab #f ,,abstract ,,view of the ,net ,revenue of the ,customs at ,st4 ,paul de ,loanda in quinquennial periods from #ahah-ai to #ahdc-dd1 both included2 and thence in each year to #ahdh-di4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ ,tonnage ,dues1 ,duties on ,duties on ,duties on ,duties on ,store ,rents1 ,years4 ,importation4,exportation4,re-export- ,slaves4 and other ation4 incidental ,receipts4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,mil4 reis4 ,mil4 reis4,mil4 reis4 ,mil4 reis4 ,mil4 reis4 #ahah-ai #egc #hgf 444 4444 #acg1cbj #hjj #adh1fjh #ffa #ahbc-bd #c1dij #geb #dfj #dbj 4444 #abj1hdc #jjj #acc1ddf #hib #ahbh-bi #d1gjj #fhd #hjj #bhj 4444 #abe1ccj #jjj #aci1iha #cfd #ahcc-cd #g1dij #jjj #a1eij #jjj 4444 #aci1bhj #jjj #aeh1igh #fdj #ahch-ci #be1hjj #eij #b1gbj #jjj 4444 #ace1dgj #cbj #agc1gaj #iaj #ahdc-dd #ec1bdj #jjj #d1cbj #jjj 4444 #gb1aie #bcj #ach1bee #bcj #ahdd-de #ii1chj #bfd #f1iie #jie 4444 #ag1fgf #jjj #acd1ida #cei #ahde-df #aej1bcc #ghi #i1faj #gce 4444 #e1aaf #ejj #aha1dbc #eej #ahdf-dg #abb1eja #ahf #h1fje #hba 4444 #edi #jjj #aad1eii #bce #ahdg-dh #aai1bdf #hbf #i1gah #fgf #djig #hfh #a1bca #bjj #adf1cba #dgf #ahdh-di #aca1aje #dec #i1ifi #ifj #aafd #cji #a1ahc #ejj #aeg1aeb #djj ------------------------- ------------ #gag1gfc #dbj99 #ed1gij #ihg #gef1aie #eej ,l4#ajb1fhj ,l4#ghbg ,l4#ajh1jbh ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 99 ,this figure was originally miscalculated as #gah1gfc #dbj1 which probably affected its conversion into ,pounds4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,net ,revenue ,revenue from ,total ,net ,total ,amount ,years4 of ,customs4 other ,sources4 ,revenue4 of ,charges4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------- ,l4 s4 d4 ,l4 s4 d4 ,l4 s4 d4 ,l4 s4 d4 #ahdd-de #bf1ihh #e #e #i1gja #aj #h #cf1fhi #af #a #ec1edb #e #d #ahde-df #cf1bhd #ad #b #bd1ehj #d #aj #fj1hfd #ai #j #ef1fie #i #g #ahdf-dg #bh1iai #af #aa #bc1cbg #i #aa #eb1bdg #f #aj #eb1ahj #i #g #ahdg-dh #bi1bfd #e #aj #bd1dij #aa #h #ec1ged #ag #f #ec1ddj #h #h #ahdh-di #ca1dcj #i #g #ah1hfh #c #aj #ea1bih #ac #e #ej1fhf #c #c ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------- ,the above account exhibits the total revenue and charges of the government of ,st4 ,paul de ,loanda in each year1 from #ahdd- #de to #ahdh-di1 both included4 ,the above three tables are copied from the appendix to a dispatch sent by ,mr4 ,gabriel to ,viscount ,palmerston1 dated the #eth of ,august1 #ahej1 and1 among other facts of interest1 show a very satisfactory diminution in the duties upon slaves4 ,the returns from #ahah to #ahdd have been obtained from different sources as the average revenue2 those from #ahdd to #ahdi are from the ,custom-house records4 ,as soon as we could move toward the ,quango we did so1 meeting in our course several trading-parties1 both native and ,portuguese4 ,we met two of the latter carrying a tusk weighing #abf lbs4 ,the owner afterward informed us that its fellow on the left side of the same elephant was #acj lbs4 ,it was #h feet #f-a_/b inches long1 and #ba inches in circumference at the part on which the lip of the animal rests4 ,the elephant was rather a small one1 as is common in this hot central region4 ,some idea may be formed of the strength of his neck when it is recollected that he bore a weight of #bef lbs4 ,the ivory which comes from the east and northeast of ,cassange is very much larger than any to be found further south4 ,captain ,neves had one weighing #abj lbs41 and this weight is by no means uncommon4 ,they have been found weighing even #aeh lbs4 ,before reaching the ,quango we were again brought to a stand by fever in two of my companions1 close to the residence of a ,portuguese who rejoiced in the name of ,william ,tell1 and who lived here in spite of the prohibition of the government4 ,we were using the water of a pond1 and this gentleman1 having come to invite me to dinner1 drank a little of it1 and caught fever in consequence4 ,if malarious matter existed in water1 it would have been a wonder had we escaped2 for1 traveling in the sun1 with the thermometer from #if ,degrees to #ih ,degrees in the shade1 the evaporation from our bodies causing much thirst1 we generally partook of every water we came to4 ,we had probably thus more disease than others might suffer who had better shelter4 ,mr4 ,tell remarked that his garden was rather barren1 being still1 as he said1 wild2 but when more worked it would become better1 though no manure be applied4 ,my men were busy collecting a better breed of fowls and pigeons than those in their own country4 ,mr4 ,tell presented them with some large specimens from ,rio ,janeiro4 ,of these they were wonderfully proud1 and bore the cock in triumph through the country of the ,balonda1 as evidence of having been to the sea4 ,but when at the village of ,shinte1 a hyaena came into our midst when we were all sound asleep1 and picked out the giant in his basket from eighty-four others1 and he was lost1 to the great grief of my men4 ,the anxiety these people have always shown to improve the breed of their domestic animals is1 ,i think1 a favorable point in their character4 ,on looking at the common breeds in the possession of the ,portuguese1 which are merely native cattle1 and seeing them slaughter both heifer-calves and cows1 which they themselves never do1 and likewise making no use of the milk1 they concluded that the ,portuguese must be an inferior race of white men4 ,they never ceased remarking on the fine ground for gardens over which we were passing2 and when ,i happened to mention that most of the flour which the ,portuguese consumed came from another country1 they exclaimed1 ,are they ignorant of tillage8 ,they know nothing but buying and selling3 they are not men4 ,i hope it may reach the ears of my ,angolese friends1 and that they may be stirred up to develop the resources of their fine country4 ,on coming back to ,cypriano's village on the #bhth1 we found that his step-father had died after we had passed1 and1 according to the custom of the country1 he had spent more than his patrimony in funeral orgies4 ,he acted with his wonted kindness1 though1 unfortunately1 drinking has got him so deeply in debt that he now keeps out of the way of his creditors4 ,he informed us that the source of the ,quango is eight days1 or one hundred miles1 to the south of this1 and in a range called ,mosamba1 in the country of the ,basongo4 ,we can see from this a sort of break in the high land which stretches away round to ,tala ,mongongo1 through which the river comes4 ,a death had occurred in a village about a mile off1 and the people were busy beating drums and firing guns4 ,the funeral rites are half festive1 half mourning1 partaking somewhat of the character of an ,irish wake4 ,there is nothing more heart-rending than their death wails4 ,when the natives turn their eyes to the future world1 they have a view cheerless enough of their own utter helplessness and hopelessness4 ,they fancy themselves completely in the power of the disembodied spirits1 and look upon the prospect of following them as the greatest of misfortunes4 ,hence they are constantly deprecating the wrath of departed souls1 believing that1 if they are appeased1 there is no other cause of death but witchcraft1 which may be averted by charms4 ,the whole of the colored population of ,angola are sunk in these gross superstitions1 but have the opinion1 notwithstanding1 that they are wiser in these matters than their white neighbors4 ,each tribe has a consciousness of following its own best interests in the best way4 ,they are by no means destitute of that self-esteem which is so common in other nations2 yet they fear all manner of phantoms1 and have half-developed ideas and traditions of something or other1 they know not what4 ,the pleasures of animal life are ever present to their minds as the supreme good2 and1 but for the innumerable invisibilities1 they might enjoy their luxurious climate as much as it is possible for man to do4 ,i have often thought1 in traveling through their land1 that it presents pictures of beauty which angels might enjoy4 ,how often have ,i beheld1 in still mornings1 scenes the very essence of beauty1 and all bathed in a quiet air of delicious warmth6 yet the occasional soft motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness as of a fan4 ,green grassy meadows1 the cattle feeding1 the goats browsing1 the kids skipping1 the groups of herd-boys with miniature bows1 arrows1 and spears2 the women wending their way to the river with watering-pots poised jauntily on their heads2 men sewing under the shady banians2 and old gray-headed fathers sitting on the ground1 with staff in hand1 listening to the morning gossip1 while others carry trees or branches to repair their hedges2 and all this1 flooded with the bright ,african sunshine1 and the birds singing among the branches before the heat of the day has become intense1 form pictures which can never be forgotten4 ,we were informed that a chief named ,gando1 living on the other side of the river1 having been accused of witchcraft1 was killed by the ordeal1 and his body thrown into the ,quango4 ,the ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico1 but received six thankfully4 ,the canoes were wretched1 carrying only two persons at a time2 but my men being well acquainted with the water1 we all got over in about two hours and a half4 ,they excited the admiration of the inhabitants by the manner in which they managed the cattle and donkeys in crossing4 ,the most stubborn of beasts found himself powerless in their hands4 ,five or six1 seizing hold on one1 bundled him at once into the stream1 and1 in this predicament1 he always thought it best policy to give in and swim4 ,the men sometimes swam along with the cattle1 and forced them to go on by dashing water at their heads4 ,the difference between my men and those of the native traders who accompanied us was never more apparent than now2 for1 while my men felt an interest in every thing we possessed in common1 theirs were rather glad when the oxen refused to cross1 for1 being obliged to slaughter them on such occasions1 the loss to their masters was a welcome feast to themselves4 ,on the eastern side of the ,quango we passed on1 without visiting our friend of the conical head-dress1 to the residence of some ,ambakistas who had crossed the river in order to secure the first chances of trade in wax4 ,i have before remarked on the knowledge of reading and writing that these ,ambakistas possess2 they are famed for their love of all sorts of learning within their reach1 a knowledge of the history of ,portugal1 ,portuguese law1 etc41 etc4 ,they are remarkably keen in trade1 and are sometimes called the ,jews of ,angola4 ,they are employed as clerks and writers1 their feminine delicacy of constitution enabling them to write a fine lady's hand1 a kind of writing much esteemed among the ,portuguese4 ,they are not physically equal to the ,european ,portuguese1 but possess considerable ability2 and it is said that half-castes1 in the course of a few generations1 return to the black color of the maternal ancestor4 ,the black population of ,angola has become much deteriorated4 ,they are not so strongly formed as the independent tribes4 ,a large quantity of aguardiente1 an inferior kind of spirit1 is imported into the country1 which is most injurious in its effects4 ,we saw many parties carrying casks of this baneful liquor to the independent chiefs beyond2 and were informed that it is difficult for any trader to convey it far1 carriers being in the habit of helping themselves by means of a straw1 and then injecting an equal amount of water when near the point of delivery4 ,to prevent this1 it is common to see large demijohns with padlocks on the corks4 ,these are frequently stolen4 ,in fact1 the carriers are much addicted to both lying and thieving1 as might be expected from the lowest class of a people on whom the debasing slave system has acted for two centuries4 ,the ,bashinje1 in whose country we now are1 seem to possess more of the low negro character and physiognomy than either the ,balonda or ,basongo2 their color is generally dirty black1 foreheads low and compressed1 noses flat and much expanded laterally1 though this is partly owing to the alae spreading over the cheeks1 by the custom of inserting bits of sticks or reeds in the septum2 their teeth are deformed by being filed to points2 their lips are large4 ,they make a nearer approach to a general negro appearance than any tribes ,i met2 but ,i did not notice this on my way down4 ,they cultivate pretty largely1 and rely upon their agricultural products for their supplies of salt1 flesh1 tobacco1 etc41 from ,bangalas4 ,their clothing consists of pieces of skin1 hung loosely from the girdle in front and behind4 ,they plait their hair fantastically4 ,we saw some women coming with their hair woven into the form of a ,european hat1 and it was only by a closer inspection that its nature was detected4 ,others had it arranged in tufts1 with a threefold cord along the ridge of each tuft2 while others1 again1 follow the ancient ,egyptian fashion1 having the whole mass of wool plaited into cords1 all hanging down as far as the shoulders4 ,this mode1 with the somewhat ,egyptian cast of countenance in other parts of ,londa1 reminded me strongly of the paintings of that nation in the ,british ,museum4 ,we had now rain every day1 and the sky seldom presented that cloudless aspect and clear blue so common in the dry lands of the south4 ,the heavens are often overcast by large white motionless masses1 which stand for hours in the same position1 and the intervening spaces are filled with a milk-and-water-looking haze4 ,notwithstanding these unfavorable circumstances1 ,i obtained good observations for the longitude of this important point on both sides of the ,quango1 and found the river running in #i;d #ej' ,s4 lat41 #ah;d #cc' ,e4 long4 ,on proceeding to our former station near ,sansawe's village1 he ran to meet us with wonderful urbanity1 asking if we had seen ,moene ,put1 king of the white men 7or ,portuguese72 and added1 on parting1 that he would come to receive his dues in the evening4 ,i replied that1 as he had treated us so scurvily1 even forbidding his people to sell us any food1 if he did not bring us a fowl and some eggs as part of his duty as a chief1 he should receive no present from me4 ,when he came1 it was in the usual ,londa way of showing the exalted position he occupies1 mounted on the shoulders of his spokesman1 as schoolboys sometimes do in ,england1 and as was represented to have been the case in the southern islands when ,captain ,cook visited them4 ,my companions1 amused at his idea of dignity1 greeted him with a hearty laugh4 ,he visited the native traders first1 and then came to me with two cocks as a present4 ,i spoke to him about the impolicy of treatment we had received at his hands1 and quoted the example of the ,bangalas1 who had been conquered by the ,portuguese1 for their extortionate demands of payment for firewood1 grass1 water1 etc41 and concluded by denying his right to any payment for simply passing through uncultivated land4 ,to all this he agreed2 and then ,i gave him1 as a token of friendship1 a pannikin of coarse powder1 two iron spoons1 and two yards of coarse printed calico4 ,he looked rather saucily at these articles1 for he had just received a barrel containing #ah lbs4 of powder1 #bd yards of calico1 and two bottles of brandy1 from ,senhor ,pascoal the ,pombeiro4 ,other presents were added the next day1 but we gave nothing more2 and the ,pombeiros informed me that it was necessary to give largely1 because they are accompanied by slaves and carriers who are no great friends to their masters2 and if they did not secure the friendship of these petty chiefs1 many slaves and their loads might be stolen while passing through the forests4 ,it is thus a sort of black-mail that these insignificant chiefs levy2 and the native traders1 in paying1 do so simply as a bribe to keep them honest4 ,this chief was a man of no power1 but in our former ignorance of this he plagued us a whole day in passing4 ,finding the progress of ,senhor ,pascoal and the other ,pombeiros excessively slow1 ,i resolved to forego his company to ,cabango after ,i had delivered to him some letters to be sent back to ,cassange4 ,i went forward with the intention of finishing my writing1 and leaving a packet for him at some village4 ,we ascended the eastern acclivity that bounds the ,cassange valley1 which has rather a gradual ascent up from the ,quango1 and we found that the last ascent1 though apparently not quite so high as that at ,tala ,mungongo1 is actually much higher4 ,the top is about #ejjj feet above the level of the sea1 and the bottom #cejj feet2 water boiling on the heights at #bjb ,deg41 the thermometer in the air showing #if ,deg42 and at the bottom at #bje ,deg41 the air being #ge ,deg4 ,we had now gained the summit of the western subtending ridge1 and began to descend toward the centre of the country1 hoping soon to get out of the ,chiboque territory1 which1 when we ascended from the ,cassange valley1 we had entered2 but1 on the #aith of ,april1 the intermittent1 which had begun on the #afth of ,march1 was changed into an extremely severe attack of rheumatic fever4 ,this was brought on by being obliged to sleep on an extensive plain covered with water4 ,the rain poured down incessantly1 but we formed our beds by dragging up the earth into oblong mounds1 somewhat like graves in a country church-yard1 and then placing grass upon them4 ,the rain continuing to deluge us1 we were unable to leave for two days1 but as soon as it became fair we continued our march4 ,the heavy dew upon the high grass was so cold as to cause shivering1 and ,i was forced to lie by for eight days1 tossing and groaning with violent pain in the head4 ,this was the most severe attack ,i had endured4 ,it made me quite unfit to move1 or even know what was passing outside my little tent4 ,senhor ,pascoal1 who had been detained by the severe rain at a better spot1 at last came up1 and1 knowing that leeches abounded in the rivulets1 procured a number1 and applied some dozens to the nape of the neck and the loins4 ,this partially relieved the pain4 ,he was then obliged to move forward1 in order to purchase food for his large party4 ,after many days ,i began to recover1 and wished to move on1 but my men objected to the attempt on account of my weakness4 ,when ,senhor ,pascoal had been some time at the village in front1 as he had received instructions from his employer1 ,captain ,neves1 to aid me as much as possible1 and being himself a kindly-disposed person1 he sent back two messengers to invite me to come on1 if practicable4 ,it happened that the head man of the village where ,i had lain twenty-two days1 while bargaining and quarreling in my camp for a piece of meat1 had been struck on the mouth by one of my men4 ,my principal men paid five pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement2 but the more they yielded1 the more exorbitant he became1 and he sent word to all the surrounding villages to aid him in avenging the affront of a blow on the beard4 ,as their courage usually rises with success1 ,i resolved to yield no more1 and departed4 ,in passing through a forest in the country beyond1 we were startled by a body of men rushing after us4 ,they began by knocking down the burdens of the hindermost of my men1 and several shots were fired1 each party spreading out on both sides of the path4 ,i fortunately had a six-barreled revolver1 which my friend ,captain ,henry ,need1 of her majesty's brig ,linnet1 had considerately sent to ,golungo ,alto after my departure from ,loanda4 ,taking this in my hand1 and forgetting fever1 ,i staggered quickly along the path with two or three of my men1 and fortunately encountered the chief4 ,the sight of the six barrels gaping into his stomach1 with my own ghastly visage looking daggers at his face1 seemed to produce an instant revolution in his martial feelings1 for he cried out1 ,oh6 ,i have only come to speak to you1 and wish peace only4 ,mashauana had hold of him by the hand1 and found him shaking4 ,we examined his gun1 and found that it had been discharged4 ,both parties crowded up to their chiefs4 ,one of the opposite party coming too near1 one of mine drove him back with a battle-axe4 ,the enemy protested their amicable intentions1 and my men asserted the fact of having the goods knocked down as evidence of the contrary4 ,without waiting long1 ,i requested all to sit down1 and ,pitsane1 placing his hand upon the revolver1 somewhat allayed their fears4 ,i then said to the chief1 ,if you have come with peaceable intentions1 we have no other2 go away home to your village4 ,he replied1 ,i am afraid lest you shoot me in the back4 ,i rejoined1 ,if ,i wanted to kill you1 ,i could shoot you in the face as well4 ,mosantu called out to me1 ,that's only a ,makalaka trick2 don't give him your back4 ,but ,i said1 ,tell him to observe that ,i am not afraid of him2 and1 turning1 mounted my ox4 ,there was not much danger in the fire that was opened at first1 there being so many trees4 ,the enemy probably expected that the sudden attack would make us forsake our goods1 and allow them to plunder with ease4 ,the villagers were no doubt pleased with being allowed to retire unscathed1 and we were also glad to get away without having shed a drop of blood1 or having compromised ourselves for any future visit4 ,my men were delighted with their own bravery1 and made the woods ring with telling each other how brilliant their conduct before the enemy would have been1 had hostilities not been brought to a sudden close4 ,i do not mention this little skirmish as a very frightful affair4 ,the negro character in these parts1 and in ,angola1 is essentially cowardly1 except when influenced by success4 ,a partial triumph over any body of men would induce the whole country to rise in arms1 and this is the chief danger to be feared4 ,these petty chiefs have individually but little power1 and with my men1 now armed with guns1 ,i could have easily beaten them off singly2 but1 being of the same family1 they would readily unite in vast numbers if incited by prospects of successful plunder4 ,they are by no means equal to the ,cape ,caffres in any respect whatever4 ,in the evening we came to ,moena ,kikanje1 and found him a sensible man4 ,he is the last of the ,chiboque chiefs in this direction1 and is in alliance with ,matiamvo1 whose territory commences a short distance beyond4 ,his village is placed on the east bank of the ,quilo1 which is here twenty yards wide1 and breast deep4 ,the country was generally covered with forest1 and we slept every night at some village4 ,i was so weak1 and had become so deaf from the effects of the fever1 that ,i was glad to avail myself of the company of ,senhor ,pascoal and the other native traders4 ,our rate of traveling was only two geographical miles per hour1 and the average number of hours three and a half per day1 or seven miles4 ,two thirds of the month was spent in stoppages1 there being only ten traveling days in each month4 ,the stoppages were caused by sickness1 and the necessity of remaining in different parts to purchase food2 and also because1 when one carrier was sick1 the rest refused to carry his load4 ,one of the ,pombeiros had eight good-looking women in a chain whom he was taking to the country of ,matiamvo to sell for ivory4 ,they always looked ashamed when ,i happened to come near them1 and must have felt keenly their forlorn and degraded position4 ,i believe they were captives taken from the rebel ,cassanges4 ,the way in which slaves are spoken of in ,angola and eastern ,africa must sound strangely even to the owners when they first come from ,europe4 ,in ,angola the common appellation is o diabo1 or brutu2 and it is quite usual to hear gentlemen call out1 ,o diabo6 bring fire4 ,in eastern ,africa1 on the contrary1 they apply the term bicho 7an animal71 and you hear the phrase1 ,call the ,,animal to do this or that4 ,in fact1 slave-owners come to regard their slaves as not human1 and will curse them as the race of a dog4 ,most of the carriers of my traveling companions were hired ,basongo1 and required constant vigilance to prevent them stealing the goods they carried4 ,salt1 which is one of the chief articles conveyed into the country1 became considerably lighter as we went along1 but the carriers shielded themselves by saying that it had been melted by the rain4 ,their burdens were taken from them every evening1 and placed in security under the guardianship of ,senhor ,pascoal's own slaves4 ,it was pitiable to observe the worrying life he led4 ,there was the greatest contrast possible between the conduct of his people and that of my faithful ,makololo4 ,we crossed the ,loange1 a deep but narrow stream1 by a bridge4 ,it becomes much larger1 and contains hippopotami1 lower down4 ,it is the boundary of ,londa on the west4 ,we slept also on the banks of the ,pezo1 now flooded1 and could not but admire their capabilities for easy irrigation4 ,on reaching the ,river ,chikapa 7lat4 #aj;d #aj' ,s41 long4 #ai;d #db' ,e471 the #beth of ,march1 we found it fifty or sixty yards wide1 and flowing ,e4,n4,e4 into the ,kasai4 ,the adjacent country is of the same level nature as that part of ,londa formerly described2 but1 having come farther to the eastward than our previous course1 we found that all the rivers had worn for themselves much deeper valleys than at the points we had formerly crossed them4 ,surrounded on all sides by large gloomy forests1 the people of these parts have a much more indistinct idea of the geography of their country than those who live in hilly regions4 ,it was only after long and patient inquiry that ,i became fully persuaded that the ,quilo runs into the ,chikapa4 ,as we now crossed them both considerably farther down1 and were greatly to the eastward of our first route1 there can be no doubt that these rivers take the same course as the others1 into the ,kasai1 and that ,i had been led into a mistake in saying that any of them flowed to the westward4 ,indeed1 it was only at this time that ,i began to perceive that all the western feeders of the ,kasai1 except the ,quango1 flow first from the western side toward the centre of the country1 then gradually turn1 with the ,kasai itself1 to the north2 and1 after the confluence of the ,kasai with the ,quango1 an immense body of water1 collected from all these branches1 finds its way out of the country by means of the ,river ,congo or ,zaire on the west coast4 ,the people living along the path we are now following were quite accustomed to the visits of native traders1 and did not feel in any way bound to make presents of food except for the purpose of cheating3 thus1 a man gave me a fowl and some meal1 and1 after a short time1 returned4 ,i offered him a handsome present of beads2 but these he declined1 and demanded a cloth instead1 which was far more than the value of his gift4 ,they did the same with my men1 until we had to refuse presents altogether4 ,others made high demands because ,i slept in a house of cloth1 and must be rich4 ,they seemed to think that they had a perfect right to payment for simply passing through the country4 ,beyond the ,chikapa we crossed the ,kamaue1 a small deep stream proceeding from the ,s4,s4,w41 and flowing into the ,chikapa4 ,on the #cjth of ,april we reached the ,loajima1 where we had to form a bridge to effect our passage4 ,this was not so difficult an operation as some might imagine2 for a tree was growing in a horizontal position across part of the stream1 and1 there being no want of the tough climbing plants which admit of being knitted like ropes1 ,senhor ,p4 soon constructed a bridge4 ,the ,loajima was here about twenty-five yards wide1 but very much deeper than where ,i had crossed before on the shoulders of ,mashauana4 ,the last rain of this season had fallen on the #bhth1 and had suddenly been followed by a great decrease of the temperature4 ,the people in these parts seemed more slender in form1 and their color a lighter olive1 than any we had hitherto met4 ,the mode of dressing the great masses of woolly hair which lay upon their shoulders1 together with their general features1 again reminded me of the ancient ,egyptians4 ,several were seen with the upward inclination of the outer angles of the eye1 but this was not general4 ,a few of the ladies adopt a curious custom of attaching the hair to a hoop which encircles the head1 giving it somewhat the appearance of the glory round the head of the ,virgin 7wood-cut ,no4 #a9974 ,some have a small hoop behind that represented in the wood-cut4 ,others wear an ornament of woven hair and hide adorned with beads4 ,the hair of the tails of buffaloes1 which are to be found farther east1 is sometimes added4 ,this is represented in ,no4 #b4 ,while others1 as in ,no4 #c1 weave their own hair on pieces of hide into the form of buffalo horns2 or1 as in ,no4 #d1 make a single horn in front4 ,the features given are frequently met with1 but they are by no means universal4 ,many tattoo their bodies by inserting some black substance beneath the skin1 which leaves an elevated cicatrix about half an inch long3 these are made in the form of stars1 and other figures of no particular beauty4 99 ,unfortunately these wood-cuts can not be represented in this ,,ascii text4 ,no4 #a appears like a wheel with spokes of hair connecting it to the head4 ,no4 #b appears somewhat like a tiara sloped forward1 as the bow of a ship4 ,no4 #c appears like gently curving horns4 ,there is a part in the middle1 and the hair1 on leather frames1 curls outward and upward at the temples4 ,no4 #d is likewise1 but the single horn curves outward and upward from the forehead--it is labelled ,a ,young ,man's ,fashion4 ,except for ,no4 #a1 all are represented as having the rest of their hair hanging in braids around the sides and back4 ,all of the faces1 as ,livingstone asserts1 appear much like paintings of ancient ,egyptians1 and could easily be ,european except for the shading and the slanted eyes4 ,they are all handsome4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,chapter #bc4 ,make a ,detour southward--,peculiarities of the ,inhabitants--,scarcity of ,animals--,forests--,geological ,structure of the ,country--,abundance and ,cheapness of ,food near the ,chihombo--,a ,slave lost--,the ,makololo ,opinion of ,slaveholders--,funeral ,obsequies in ,cabango--,send a ,sketch of the ,country to ,mr4 ,gabriel--,native ,information respecting the ,kasai and ,quango--,the ,trade with ,luba--,drainage of ,londa--,report of ,matiamvo's ,country and ,government--,senhor ,faria's ,present to a ,chief--,the ,balonda ,mode of spending ,time--,faithless ,guide--,makololo lament the ,ignorance of the ,balonda--,eagerness of the ,villagers for ,trade--,civility of a ,female ,chief--,the ,chief ,bango and his ,people--,refuse to eat ,beef--,ambition of ,africans to have a ,village--,winters in the ,interior--,spring at ,kolobeng--,white ,ants3 ,never could desire to eat any thing better--,young ,herbage and ,animals--,valley of the ,loembwe-- ,the white ,man a ,hobgoblin--,specimen of ,quarreling--,eager ,desire for ,calico--,want of ,clothing at ,kawawa's--,funeral ,observances--,agreeable ,intercourse with ,kawawa--,his impudent ,demand--,unpleasant ,parting--,kawawa tries to prevent our crossing the ,river ,kasai--,stratagem4 ,we made a little detour to the southward in order to get provisions in a cheaper market4 ,this led us along the rivulet called ,tamba1 where we found the people1 who had not been visited so frequently by the slave-traders as the rest1 rather timid and very civil4 ,it was agreeable to get again among the uncontaminated1 and to see the natives look at us without that air of superciliousness which is so unpleasant and common in the beaten track4 ,the same olive color prevailed4 ,they file their teeth to a point1 which makes the smile of the women frightful1 as it reminds one of the grin of an alligator4 ,the inhabitants throughout this country exhibit as great a variety of taste as appears on the surface of society among ourselves4 ,many of the men are dandies2 their shoulders are always wet with the oil dropping from their lubricated hair1 and every thing about them is ornamented in one way or another4 ,some thrum a musical instrument the livelong day1 and1 when they wake at night1 proceed at once to their musical performance4 ,many of these musicians are too poor to have iron keys to their instrument1 but make them of bamboo1 and persevere1 though no one hears the music but themselves4 ,others try to appear warlike by never going out of their huts except with a load of bows and arrows1 or a gun ornamented with a strip of hide for every animal they have shot2 and others never go any where without a canary in a cage4 ,ladies may be seen carefully tending little lap-dogs1 which are intended to be eaten4 ,their villages are generally in forests1 and composed of groups of irregularly-planted brown huts1 with banana and cotton trees1 and tobacco growing around4 ,there is also at every hut a high stage erected for drying manioc roots and meal1 and elevated cages to hold domestic fowls4 ,round baskets are laid on the thatch of the huts for the hens to lay in1 and on the arrival of strangers1 men1 women1 and children ply their calling as hucksters with a great deal of noisy haggling2 all their transactions are conducted with civil banter and good temper4 ,my men1 having the meat of the oxen which we slaughtered from time to time for sale1 were entreated to exchange it for meal2 no matter how small the pieces offered were1 it gave them pleasure to deal4 ,the landscape around is green1 with a tint of yellow1 the grass long1 the paths about a foot wide1 and generally worn deeply in the middle4 ,the tall overhanging grass1 when brushed against by the feet and legs1 disturbed the lizards and mice1 and occasionally a serpent1 causing a rustling among the herbage4 ,there are not many birds2 every animal is entrapped and eaten4 ,gins are seen on both sides of the path every ten or fifteen yards1 for miles together4 ,the time and labor required to dig up moles and mice from their burrows would1 if applied to cultivation1 afford food for any amount of fowls or swine1 but the latter are seldom met with4 ,we passed on through forests abounding in climbing-plants1 many of which are so extremely tough that a man is required to go in front with a hatchet2 and when the burdens of the carriers are caught1 they are obliged to cut the climbers with their teeth1 for no amount of tugging will make them break4 ,the paths in all these forests are so zigzag that a person may imagine he has traveled a distance of thirty miles1 which1 when reckoned as the crow flies1 may not be fifteen4 ,we reached the ,river ,moamba 7lat4 #i;d #ch' ,s41 long4 #bj;d #ac' #cd ,e47 on the #gth ,may4 ,this is a stream of thirty yards wide1 and1 like the ,quilo1 ,loange1 ,chikapa1 and ,loajima1 contains both alligators and hippopotami4 ,we crossed it by means of canoes4 ,here1 as on the slopes down to the ,quilo and ,chikapa1 we had an opportunity of viewing the geological structure of the country--a capping of ferruginous conglomerate1 which in many parts looks as if it had been melted1 for the rounded nodules resemble masses of slag1 and they have a smooth scale on the surface2 but in all probability it is an aqueous deposit1 for it contains water-worn pebbles of all sorts1 and generally small4 ,below this mass lies a pale red hardened sandstone1 and beneath that a trap-like whinstone4 ,lowest of all lies a coarse-grained sandstone containing a few pebbles1 and1 in connection with it1 a white calcareous rock is occasionally met with1 and so are banks of loose round quartz pebbles4 ,the slopes are longer from the level country above the further we go eastward1 and every where we meet with circumscribed bogs on them1 surrounded by clumps of straight1 lofty evergreen trees1 which look extremely graceful on a ground of yellowish grass4 ,several of these bogs pour forth a solution of iron1 which exhibits on its surface the prismatic colors4 ,the level plateaus between the rivers1 both east and west of the ,moamba1 across which we traveled1 were less woody than the river glens4 ,the trees on them are scraggy and wide apart4 ,there are also large open grass-covered spaces1 with scarcely even a bush4 ,on these rather dreary intervals between the rivers it was impossible not to be painfully struck with the absence of all animal life4 ,not a bird was to be seen1 except occasionally a tomtit1 some of the ',sylviadae' and ',drymoica'1 also a black bird 7',dicrurus ,ludwigii'1 ,smith7 common throughout the country4 ,we were gladdened by the voice of birds only near the rivers1 and there they are neither numerous nor varied4 ,the ,senegal longclaw1 however1 maintains its place1 and is the largest bird seen4 ,we saw a butcher-bird in a trap as we passed4 ,there are remarkably few small animals1 they having been hunted almost to extermination1 and few insects except ants1 which abound in considerable number and variety4 ,there are scarcely any common flies to be seen1 nor are we ever troubled by mosquitoes4 ,the air is still1 hot1 and oppressive2 the intensely bright sunlight glances peacefully on the evergreen forest leaves1 and all feel glad when the path comes into the shade4 ,the want of life in the scenery made me long to tread again the banks of the ,zambesi1 and see the graceful antelopes feeding beside the dark buffaloes and sleek elands4 ,here hippopotami are known to exist only by their footprints on the banks4 ,not one is ever seen to blow or put his head up at all2 they have learned to breathe in silence and keep out of sight4 ,we never heard one uttering the snorting sound so common on the ,zambesi4 ,we crossed two small streams1 the ,kanesi and ,fombeji1 before reaching ,cabango1 a village situated on the banks of the ,chihombo4 ,the country was becoming more densely peopled as we proceeded1 but it bears no population compared to what it might easily sustain4 ,provisions were to be had in great abundance2 a fowl and basket of meal weighing #bj lbs4 were sold for a yard and a half of very inferior cotton cloth1 worth not more than threepence4 ,an idea of the cheapness of food may be formed from the fact that ,captain ,neves purchased #chj lbs4 of tobacco from the ,bangalas for about two pounds sterling4 ,this1 when carried into central ,londa1 might purchase seven thousand five hundred fowls1 or feed with meal and fowls seven thousand persons for one day1 giving each a fowl and #e lbs4 of meal4 ,when food is purchased here with either salt or coarse calico1 four persons can be well fed with animal and vegetable food at the rate of one penny a day4 ,the chief vegetable food is the manioc and lotsa meal4 ,these contain a very large proportion of starch1 and1 when eaten alone for any length of time produce most distressing heartburn4 ,as we ourselves experienced in coming north1 they also cause a weakness of vision1 which occurs in the case of animals fed on pure gluten or amylaceous matter only4 ,i now discovered that when these starchy substances are eaten along with a proportion of ground-nuts1 which contain a considerable quantity of oil1 no injurious effects follow4 ,while on the way to ,cabango we saw fresh tracks of elands1 the first we had observed in this country4 ,a poor little slave girl1 being ill1 turned aside in the path1 and1 though we waited all the next day making search for her1 she was lost4 ,she was tall and slender for her age1 as if of too quick growth1 and probably1 unable to bear the fatigue of the march1 lay down and slept in the forest1 then1 waking in the dark1 went farther and farther astray4 ,the treatment of the slaves witnessed by my men certainly did not raise slaveholders in their estimation4 ,their usual exclamation was ,ga ba na pelu 7,they have no heart72 and they added1 with reference to the slaves1 ,why do they let them8 as if they thought that the slaves had the natural right to rid the world of such heartless creatures1 and ought to do it4 ,the uneasiness of the trader was continually showing itself1 and1 upon the whole1 he had reason to be on the alert both day and night4 ,the carriers perpetually stole the goods intrusted to their care1 and he could not openly accuse them1 lest they should plunder him of all1 and leave him quite in the lurch4 ,he could only hope to manage them after getting all the remaining goods safely into a house in ,cabango2 he might then deduct something from their pay for what they had purloined on the way4 ,cabango 7lat4 #i;d #ca' ,s41 long4 #bj;d #ca' or #cb' ,e47 is the dwelling-place of ,muanzanza1 one of ,matiamvo's subordinate chiefs4 ,his village consists of about two hundred huts and ten or twelve square houses1 constructed of poles with grass interwoven4 ,the latter are occupied by half-caste ,portuguese from ,ambaca1 agents for the ,cassange traders4 ,the cold in the mornings was now severe to the feelings1 the thermometer ranging from #eh ,deg4 to #fj ,deg41 though1 when protected1 sometimes standing as high as #fd ,deg4 at six ,a4,m4 ,when the sun is well up1 the thermometer in the shade rises to #hj ,deg41 and in the evenings it is about #gh ,deg4 ,a person having died in this village1 we could transact no business with the chief until the funeral obsequies were finished4 ,these occupy about four days1 during which there is a constant succession of dancing1 wailing1 and feasting4 ,guns are fired by day1 and drums beaten by night1 and all the relatives1 dressed in fantastic caps1 keep up the ceremonies with spirit proportionate to the amount of beer and beef expended4 ,when there is a large expenditure1 the remark is often made afterward1 ,what a fine funeral that was6 ,a figure1 consisting chiefly of feathers and beads1 is paraded on these occasions1 and seems to be regarded as an idol4 ,having met with an accident to one of my eyes by a blow from a branch in passing through a forest1 ,i remained some days here1 endeavoring1 though with much pain1 to draw a sketch of the country thus far1 to be sent back to ,mr4 ,gabriel at ,loanda4 ,i was always anxious to transmit an account of my discoveries on every possible occasion1 lest1 any thing happening in the country to which ,i was going1 they should be entirely lost4 ,i also fondly expected a packet of letters and papers which my good angel at ,loanda would be sure to send if they came to hand1 but ,i afterward found that1 though he had offered a large sum to any one who would return with an assurance of having delivered the last packet he sent1 no one followed me with it to ,cabango4 ,the unwearied attentions of this good ,englishman1 from his first welcome to me when1 a weary1 dejected1 and worn-down stranger1 ,i arrived at his residence1 and his whole subsequent conduct1 will be held in lively remembrance by me to my dying day4 ,several of the native traders here having visited the country of ,luba1 lying far to the north of this1 and there being some visitors also from the town of ,mai1 which is situated far down the ,kasai1 ,i picked up some information respecting those distant parts4 ,in going to the town of ,mai the traders crossed only two large rivers1 the ,loajima and ,chihombo4 ,the ,kasai flows a little to the east of the town of ,mai1 and near it there is a large waterfall4 ,they describe the ,kasai as being there of very great size1 and that it thence bends round to the west4 ,on asking an old man1 who was about to return to his chief ,mai1 to imagine himself standing at his home1 and point to the confluence of the ,quango and ,kasai1 he immediately turned1 and1 pointing to the westward1 said1 ,when we travel five days 7thirty-five or forty miles7 in that direction1 we come to it4 ,he stated also that the ,kasai received another river1 named the ,lubilash4 ,there is but one opinion among the ,balonda respecting the ,kasai and ,quango4 ,they invariably describe the ,kasai as receiving the ,quango1 and1 beyond the confluence1 assuming the name of ,zaire or ,zerezere4 ,and the ,kasai1 even previous to the junction1 is much larger than the ,quango1 from the numerous branches it receives4 ,besides those we have already crossed1 there is the ,chihombo at ,cabango2 and forty-two miles beyond this1 eastward1 runs the ,kasai itself2 fourteen miles beyond that1 the ,kaunguesi2 then1 forty-two miles farther east1 flows the ,lolua2 besides numbers of little streams1 all of which contribute to swell the ,kasai4 ,about thirty-four miles east of the ,lolua1 or a hundred and thirty-two miles ,e4,n4,e4 of ,cabango1 stands the town of ,matiamvo1 the paramount chief of all the ,balonda4 ,the town of ,mai is pointed out as to the ,n4,n4,w4 of ,cabango1 and thirty-two days or two hundred and twenty-four miles distant1 or about lat4 ,s4 #e;d #de'4 ,the chief town of ,luba1 another independent chief1 is eight days farther in the same direction1 or lat4 ,s4 #d;d #ej'4 ,judging from the appearance of the people who had come for the purposes of trade from ,mai1 those in the north are in quite as uncivilized a condition as the ,balonda4 ,they are clad in a kind of cloth made of the inner bark of a tree4 ,neither guns nor native traders are admitted into the country1 the chief of ,luba entertaining a dread of innovation4 ,if a native trader goes thither1 he must dress like the common people in ,angola1 in a loose robe resembling a kilt4 ,the chief trades in shells and beads only4 ,his people kill the elephants by means of spears1 poisoned arrows1 and traps4 ,all assert that elephants' tusks from that country are heavier and of greater length than any others4 ,it is evident1 from all the information ,i could collect both here and elsewhere1 that the drainage of ,londa falls to the north and then runs westward4 ,the countries of ,luba and ,mai are evidently lower than this1 and yet this is of no great altitude--probably not much more than #cejj feet above the level of the sea4 ,having here received pretty certain information on a point in which ,i felt much interest1 namely1 that the ,kasai is not navigable from the coast1 owing to the large waterfall near the town of ,mai1 and that no great kingdom exists in the region beyond1 between this and the equator1 ,i would fain have visited ,matiamvo4 ,this seemed a very desirable step1 as it is good policy as well as right to acknowledge the sovereign of a country2 and ,i was assured1 both by ,balonda and native traders1 that a considerable branch of the ,zambesi rises in the country east of his town1 and flows away to the south4 ,the whole of this branch1 extending down even to where it turns westward to ,masiko1 is probably placed too far eastward on the map4 ,it was put down when ,i believed ,matiamvo and ,cazembe to be farther east than ,i have since seen reason to believe them4 ,all1 being derived from native testimony1 is offered to the reader with diffidence1 as needing verification by actual explorers4 ,the people of that part1 named ,kanyika and ,kanyoka1 living on its banks1 are represented as both numerous and friendly1 but ,matiamvo will on no account permit any white person to visit them1 as his principal supplies of ivory are drawn from them4 ,thinking that we might descend this branch of the ,zambesi to ,masiko1 and thence to the ,barotse1 ,i felt a strong inclination to make the attempt4 ,the goods1 however1 we had brought with us to pay our way1 had1 by the long detention from fever and weakness in both myself and men1 dwindled to a mere fragment2 and1 being but slightly acquainted with the ,balonda dialect1 ,i felt that ,i could neither use persuasion nor presents to effect my object4 ,from all ,i could hear of ,matiamvo1 there was no chance of my being allowed to proceed through his country to the southward4 ,if ,i had gone merely to visit him1 all the goods would have been expended by the time ,i returned to ,cabango2 and we had not found mendicity so pleasant on our way to the north as to induce us to desire to return to it4 ,the country of ,matiamvo is said to be well peopled1 but they have little or no trade4 ,they receive calico1 salt1 gunpowder1 coarse earthenware1 and beads1 and give in return ivory and slaves4 ,they possess no cattle1 ,matiamvo alone having a single herd1 which he keeps entirely for the sake of the flesh4 ,the present chief is said to be mild in his government1 and will depose an under-chief for unjust conduct4 ,he occasionally sends the distance of a hundred miles or more to behead an offending officer4 ,but1 though ,i was informed by the ,portuguese that he possesses absolute power1 his name had less influence over his subjects with whom ,i came in contact than that of ,sekeletu has over his people living at a much greater distance from the capital4 ,as we thought it best to strike away to the ,s4,e4 from ,cabango to our old friend ,katema1 ,i asked a guide from ,muanzanza as soon as the funeral proceedings were over4 ,he agreed to furnish one1 and also accepted a smaller present from me than usual1 when it was represented to him by ,pascoal and ,faria that ,i was not a trader4 ,he seemed to regard these presents as his proper dues2 and as a cargo of goods had come by ,senhor ,pascoal1 he entered the house for the purpose of receiving his share1 when ,senhor ,faria gravely presented him with the commonest earthenware vessel1 of which great numbers are brought for this trade4 ,the chief received it with expressions of abundant gratitude1 as these vessels are highly valued1 because from their depth they can hold so much food or beer4 ,the association of ideas is sometimes so very ludicrous that it is difficult to maintain one's gravity4 ,several of the children of the late ,matiamvo came to beg from me1 but never to offer any food4 ,having spoken to one young man named ,liula 7,heavens7 about their stinginess1 he soon brought bananas and manioc4 ,i liked his appearance and conversation1 and believe that the ,balonda would not be difficult to teach1 but their mode of life would be a drawback4 ,the ,balonda in this quarter are much more agreeable-looking than any of the inhabitants nearer the coast4 ,the women allow their teeth to remain in their beautifully white state1 and would be comely but for the custom of inserting pieces of reed into the cartilage of the nose4 ,they seem generally to be in good spirits1 and spend their time in everlasting talk1 funeral ceremonies1 and marriages4 ,this flow of animal spirits must be one reason why they are such an indestructible race4 ,the habitual influence on their minds of the agency of unseen spirits may have a tendency in the same direction1 by preserving the mental quietude of a kind of fatalism4 ,we were forced to prepay our guide and his father too1 and he went but one day1 although he promised to go with us to ,katema4 ,he was not in the least ashamed at breaking his engagements1 and probably no disgrace will be attached to the deed by ,muanzanza4 ,among the ,bakwains he would have been punished4 ,my men would have stripped him of the wages which he wore on his person1 but thought that1 as we had always acted on the mildest principles1 they would let him move off with his unearned gains4 ,they frequently lamented the want of knowledge in these people1 saying1 in their own tongue1 ,ah6 they don't know that we are men as well as they1 and that we are only bearing with their insolence with patience because we are men4 ,then would follow a hearty curse1 showing that the patience was nearly expended2 but they seldom quarreled in the language of the ,balonda4 ,the only one who ever lost his temper was the man who struck a head man of one of the villages on the mouth1 and he was the most abject individual in our company4 ,the reason why we needed a guide at all was to secure the convenience of a path1 which1 though generally no better than a sheep-walk1 is much easier than going straight in one direction1 through tangled forests and tropical vegetation4 ,we knew the general direction we ought to follow1 and also if any deviation occurred from our proper route2 but1 to avoid impassable forests and untreadable bogs1 and to get to the proper fords of the rivers1 we always tried to procure a guide1 and he always followed the common path from one village to another when that lay in the direction we were going4 ,after leaving ,cabango on the #bast1 we crossed several little streams running into the ,chihombo on our left1 and in one of them ,i saw tree ferns 7',cyathea dregei'7 for the first time in ,africa4 ,the trunk was about four feet high and ten inches in diameter4 ,we saw also grass trees of two varieties1 which1 in damp localities1 had attained a height of forty feet4 ,on crossing the ,chihombo1 which we did about twelve miles above ,cabango1 we found it waist-deep and rapid4 ,we were delighted to see the evidences of buffalo and hippopotami on its banks4 ,as soon as we got away from the track of the slave-traders1 the more kindly spirit of the southern ,balonda appeared1 for an old man brought a large present of food from one of the villages1 and volunteered to go as guide himself4 ,the people1 however1 of the numerous villages which we passed always made efforts to detain us1 that they might have a little trade in the way of furnishing our suppers4 ,at one village1 indeed1 they would not show us the path at all unless we remained at least a day with them4 ,having refused1 we took a path in the direction we ought to go1 but it led us into an inextricable thicket4 ,returning to the village again1 we tried another footpath in a similar direction1 but this led us into an equally impassable and trackless forest4 ,we were thus forced to come back and remain4 ,in the following morning they put us in the proper path1 which in a few hours led us through a forest that would otherwise have taken us days to penetrate4 ,beyond this forest we found the village of ,nyakalonga1 a sister of the late ,matiamvo1 who treated us handsomely4 ,she wished her people to guide us to the next village1 but this they declined unless we engaged in trade4 ,she then requested us to wait an hour or two till she could get ready a present of meal1 manioc roots1 ground-nuts1 and a fowl4 ,it was truly pleasant to meet with people possessing some civility1 after the hauteur we had experienced on the slave-path4 ,she sent her son to the next village without requiring payment4 ,the stream which ran past her village was quite impassable there1 and for a distance of about a mile on either side1 the bog being soft and shaky1 and1 when the crust was broken through1 about six feet deep4 ,on the #bhth we reached the village of the chief ,bango 7lat4 #ab;d #bb' #ec ,s41 long4 #bj;d #eh' ,e471 who brought us a handsome present of meal1 and the meat of an entire pallah4 ,we here slaughtered the last of the cows presented to us by ,mr4 ,schut1 which ,i had kept milked until it gave only a teaspoonful at a time4 ,my men enjoyed a hearty laugh when they found that ,i had given up all hope of more1 for they had been talking among themselves about my perseverance4 ,we offered a leg of the cow to ,bango1 but he informed us that neither he nor his people ever partook of beef1 as they looked upon cattle as human1 and living at home like men4 ,none of his people purchased any of the meat1 which was always eagerly done every where else4 ,there are several other tribes who refuse to keep cattle1 though not to eat them when offered by others1 because1 say they1 oxen bring enemies and war2 but this is the first instance ,i have met with in which they have been refused as food4 ,the fact of killing the pallahs for food shows that the objection does not extend to meat in general4 ,the little streams in this part of the country did not flow in deep dells1 nor were we troubled with the gigantic grasses which annoyed our eyes on the slopes of the streams before we came to ,cabango4 ,the country was quite flat1 and the people cultivated manioc very extensively4 ,there is no large collection of the inhabitants in any one spot4 ,the ambition of each seems to be to have his own little village2 and we see many coming from distant parts with the flesh of buffaloes and antelopes as the tribute claimed by ,bango4 ,we have now entered again the country of the game1 but they are so exceedingly shy that we have not yet seen a single animal4 ,the arrangement into many villages pleases the ,africans vastly1 for every one who has a few huts under him feels himself in some measure to be a chief4 ,the country at this time is covered with yellowish grass quite dry4 ,some of the bushes and trees are green2 others are shedding their leaves1 the young buds pushing off the old foliage4 ,trees1 which in the south stand bare during the winter months1 have here but a short period of leaflessness4 ,occasionally1 however1 a cold north wind comes up even as far as ,cabango1 and spreads a wintry aspect on all the exposed vegetation4 ,the tender shoots of the evergreen trees on the south side become as if scorched2 the leaves of manioc1 pumpkins1 and other tender plants are killed2 while the same kinds1 in spots sheltered by forests1 continue green through the whole year4 ,all the interior of ,south ,africa has a distinct winter of cold1 varying in intensity with the latitudes4 ,in the central parts of the ,cape ,colony the cold in the winter is often severe1 and the ground is covered with snow4 ,at ,kuruman snow seldom falls1 but the frost is keen4 ,there is frost even as far as the ,chobe1 and a partial winter in the ,barotse valley1 but beyond the ,orange ,river we never have cold and damp combined4 ,indeed1 a shower of rain seldom or never falls during winter1 and hence the healthiness of the ,bechuana climate4 ,from the ,barotse valley northward it is questionable if it ever freezes2 but1 during the prevalence of the south wind1 the thermometer sinks as low as #db ,deg41 and conveys the impression of bitter cold4 ,nothing can exceed the beauty of the change from the wintry appearance to that of spring at ,kolobeng4 ,previous to the commencement of the rains1 an easterly wind blows strongly by day1 but dies away at night4 ,the clouds collect in increasing masses1 and relieve in some measure the bright glare of the southern sun4 ,the wind dries up every thing1 and when at its greatest strength is hot1 and raises clouds of dust4 ,the general temperature during the day rises above #if ,deg43 then showers begin to fall2 and if the ground is but once well soaked with a good day's rain1 the change produced is marvelous4 ,in a day or two a tinge of green is apparent all over the landscape1 and in five or six days the fresh leaves sprouting forth1 and the young grass shooting up1 give an appearance of spring which it requires weeks of a colder climate to produce4 ,the birds1 which in the hot1 dry1 windy season had been silent1 now burst forth into merry twittering songs1 and are busy building their nests4 ,some of them1 indeed1 hatch several times a year4 ,the lowering of the temperature1 by rains or other causes1 has much the same effect as the increasing mildness of our own spring4 ,the earth teems with myriads of young insects2 in some parts of the country hundreds of centipedes1 myriapedes1 and beetles emerge from their hiding-places1 somewhat as our snails at home do2 and in the evenings the white ants swarm by thousands4 ,a stream of them is seen to rush out of a hole1 and1 after flying one or two hundred yards1 they descend2 and if they light upon a piece of soil proper for the commencement of a new colony1 they bend up their tails1 unhook their wings1 and1 leaving them on the surface1 quickly begin their mining operations4 ,if an attempt is made to separate the wings from the body by drawing them away backward1 they seem as if hooked into the body1 and tear away large portions of the insect2 but if turned forward1 as the ant itself does1 they snap off with the greatest ease4 ,indeed1 they seem formed only to serve the insect in its short flight to a new habitation1 and then to be thrown aside4 ,nothing can exceed the eagerness with which1 at the proper time1 they rush out from their birth-place4 ,occasionally this occurs in a house1 and then1 in order to prevent every corner from being filled with them1 ,i have seen a fire placed over the orifice2 but they hesitate not even to pass through the fire4 ,while swarming they appear like snow-flakes floating about in the air1 and dogs1 cats1 hawks1 and almost every bird1 may be seen busily devouring them4 ,the natives1 too1 profit by the occasion1 and actively collect them for food1 they being about half an inch long1 as thick as a crow-quill1 and very fat4 ,when roasted they are said to be good1 and somewhat resemble grains of boiled rice4 ,an idea may be formed of this dish by what once occurred on the banks of the ,zouga4 ,the ,bayeiye chief ,palani visiting us while eating1 ,i gave him a piece of bread and preserved apricots2 and as he seemed to relish it much1 ,i asked him if he had any food equal to that in his country4 ,ah6 said he1 did you ever taste white ants8 ,as ,i never had1 he replied1 ,well1 if you had1 you never could have desired to eat any thing better4 ,the general way of catching them is to dig into the ant-hill1 and wait till the builders come forth to repair the damage1 then brush them off quickly into a vessel1 as the ant-eater does into his mouth4 ,the fall of the rain makes all the cattle look fresh and clean1 and both men and women proceed cheerily to their already hoed gardens1 and sow the seed4 ,the large animals in the country leave the spots where they had been compelled to congregate for the sake of water1 and become much wilder4 ,occasionally a herd of buffaloes or antelopes smell rain from afar1 and set off in a straight line toward the place4 ,sometimes they make mistakes1 and are obliged to return to the water they had left4 ,very large tracts of country are denuded of old grass during the winter by means of fire1 in order to attract the game to that which there springs up unmixed with the older crop4 ,this new herbage has a renovating tendency1 for as long as they feed on the dry grass of the former season they continue in good condition2 but no sooner are they able to indulge their appetites on the fresh herbage1 than even the marrow in their bones becomes dissolved1 and a red1 soft1 uneatable mass is left behind4 ,after this commences the work of regaining their former plumpness4 ,,may #cj,,th4 ,we left ,bango1 and proceeded to the ,river ,loembwe1 which flows to the ,n4,n4,e41 and abounds in hippopotami4 ,it is about sixty yards wide1 and four feet deep1 but usually contains much less water than this1 for there are fishing-weirs placed right across it4 ,like all the ,african rivers in this quarter1 it has morasses on each bank1 yet the valley in which it winds1 when seen from the high lands above1 is extremely beautiful4 ,this valley is about the fourth of a mile wide1 and it was easy to fancy the similarity of many spots on it to the goodly manors in our own country1 and feel assured that there was still ample territory left for an indefinite increase of the world's population4 ,the villages are widely apart and difficult of access1 from the paths being so covered with tall grass that even an ox can scarcely follow the track4 ,the grass cuts the feet of the men2 yet we met a woman with a little child1 and a girl1 wending their way home with loads of manioc4 ,the sight of a white man always infuses a tremor into their dark bosoms1 and in every case of the kind they appeared immensely relieved when ,i had fairly passed without having sprung upon them4 ,in the villages the dogs run away with their tails between their legs1 as if they had seen a lion4 ,the women peer from behind the walls till he comes near them1 and then hastily dash into the house4 ,when a little child1 unconscious of danger1 meets you in the street1 he sets up a scream at the apparition1 and conveys the impression that he is not far from going into fits4 ,among the ,bechuanas ,i have been obliged to reprove the women for making a hobgoblin of the white man1 and telling their children that they would send for him to bite them4 ,having passed the ,loembwe1 we were in a more open country1 with every few hours a small valley1 through which ran a little rill in the middle of a bog4 ,these were always difficult to pass1 and being numerous1 kept the lower part of the person constantly wet4 ,at different points in our course we came upon votive offerings to the ,barimo4 ,these usually consisted of food2 and every deserted village still contained the idols and little sheds with pots of medicine in them4 ,one afternoon we passed a small frame house with the head of an ox in it as an object of worship4 ,the dreary uniformity of gloomy forests and open flats must have a depressing influence on the minds of the people4 ,some villages appear more superstitious than others1 if we may judge from the greater number of idols they contain4 ,only on one occasion did we witness a specimen of quarreling4 ,an old woman1 standing by our camp1 continued to belabor a good-looking young man for hours with her tongue4 ,irritated at last1 he uttered some words of impatience1 when another man sprang at him1 exclaiming1 ,how dare you curse my ',mama'8 ,they caught each other1 and a sort of pushing1 dragging wrestling-match ensued4 ,the old woman who had been the cause of the affray wished us to interfere1 and the combatants themselves hoped as much2 but we1 preferring to remain neutral1 allowed them to fight it out4 ,it ended by one falling under the other1 both1 from their scuffling1 being in a state of nudity4 ,they picked up their clothing and ran off in different directions1 each threatening to bring his gun and settle the dispute in mortal combat4 ,only one1 however1 returned1 and the old woman continued her scolding till my men1 fairly tired of her tongue1 ordered her to be gone4 ,this trifling incident was one of interest to me1 for1 during the whole period of my residence in the ,bechuana country1 ,i never saw unarmed men strike each other4 ,their disputes are usually conducted with great volubility and noisy swearing1 but they generally terminate by both parties bursting into a laugh4 ,at every village attempts were made to induce us to remain a night4 ,sometimes large pots of beer were offered to us as a temptation4 ,occasionally the head man would peremptorily order us to halt under a tree which he pointed out4 ,at other times young men volunteered to guide us to the impassable part of the next bog1 in the hope of bringing us to a stand1 for all are excessively eager to trade2 but food was so very cheap that we sometimes preferred paying them to keep it1 and let us part in good humor4 ,a good-sized fowl could be had for a single charge of gunpowder4 ,each native who owns a gun carries about with him a measure capable of holding but one charge1 in which he receives his powder4 ,throughout this region the women are almost entirely naked1 their gowns being a patch of cloth frightfully narrow1 with no flounces2 and nothing could exceed the eagerness with which they offered to purchase strips of calico of an inferior description4 ,they were delighted with the large pieces we gave1 though only about two feet long1 for a fowl and a basket of upward of #bj lbs4 of meal4 ,as we had now only a small remnant of our stock1 we were obliged to withstand their importunity1 and then many of their women1 with true maternal feelings1 held up their little naked babies1 entreating us to sell only a little rag for them4 ,the fire1 they say1 is their only clothing by night1 and the little ones derive heat by sticking closely to their parents4 ,instead of a skin or cloth to carry their babies in1 the women plait a belt about four inches broad1 of the inner bark of a tree1 and this1 hung from the one shoulder to the opposite side1 like a soldier's belt1 enables them to support the child by placing it on their side in a sitting position4 ,their land is very fertile1 and they can raise ground-nuts and manioc in abundance4 ,here ,i observed no cotton1 nor any domestic animals except fowls and little dogs4 ,the chief possessed a few goats1 and ,i never could get any satisfactory reason why the people also did not rear them4 ,on the evening of the #b;d of ,june we reached the village of ,kawawa1 rather an important personage in these parts4 ,this village consists of forty or fifty huts1 and is surrounded by forest4 ,drums were beating over the body of a man who had died the preceding day1 and some women were making a clamorous wail at the door of his hut1 and addressing the deceased as if alive4 ,the drums continued beating the whole night1 with as much regularity as a steam-engine thumps on board ship4 ,we observed that a person dressed fantastically with a great number of feathers left the people at the dance and wailing1 and went away into the deep forest in the morning1 to return again to the obsequies in the evening2 he is intended to represent one of the ,barimo4 ,in the morning we had agreeable intercourse with ,kawawa2 he visited us1 and we sat and talked nearly the whole day with him and his people4 ,when we visited him in return1 we found him in his large court-house1 which1 though of a beehive shape1 was remarkably well built4 ,as ,i had shown him a number of curiosities1 he now produced a jug1 of ,english ware1 shaped like an old man holding a can of beer in his hand1 as the greatest curiosity he had to exhibit4 ,we had now an opportunity of hearing a case brought before him for judgment4 ,a poor man and his wife were accused of having bewitched the man whose wake was now held in the village4 ,before ,kawawa even heard the defense1 he said1 ,you have killed one of my children2 bring all yours before me1 that ,i may choose which of them shall be mine instead4 ,the wife eloquently defended herself1 but this availed little1 for these accusations are the means resorted to by some chiefs to secure subjects for the slave-market4 ,he probably thought that ,i had come to purchase slaves1 though ,i had already given a pretty full explanation of my pursuits both to himself and his people4 ,we exhibited the pictures of the magic lantern in the evening1 and all were delighted except ,kawawa himself4 ,he showed symptoms of dread1 and several times started up as if to run away1 but was prevented by the crowd behind4 ,some of the more intelligent understood the explanations well1 and expatiated eloquently on them to the more obtuse4 ,nothing could exceed the civilities which had passed between us during this day2 but ,kawawa had heard that the ,chiboque had forced us to pay an ox1 and now thought he might do the same4 ,when1 therefore1 ,i sent next morning to let him know that we were ready to start1 he replied in his figurative way1 ,if an ox came in the way of a man1 ought he not to eat it8 ,i had given one to the ,chiboque1 and must give him the same1 together with a gun1 gunpowder1 and a black robe1 like that he had seen spread out to dry the day before2 that1 if ,i refused an ox1 ,i must give one of my men1 and a book by which he might see the state of ,matiamvo's heart toward him1 and which would forewarn him1 should ,matiamvo ever resolve to cut off his head4 ,kawawa came in the coolest manner possible to our encampment after sending this message1 and told me he had seen all our goods1 and must have all he asked1 as he had command of the ,kasai in our front1 and would prevent us from passing it unless we paid this tribute4 ,i replied that the goods were my property and not his2 that ,i would never have it said that a white man had paid tribute to a black1 and that ,i should cross the ,kasai in spite of him4 ,he ordered his people to arm themselves1 and when some of my men saw them rushing for their bows1 arrows1 and spears1 they became somewhat panic-stricken4 ,i ordered them to move away1 and not to fire unless ,kawawa's people struck the first blow4 ,i took the lead1 and expected them all to follow1 as they usually had done1 but many of my men remained behind4 ,when ,i knew this1 ,i jumped off the ox1 and made a rush to them with the revolver in my hand4 ,kawawa ran away among his people1 and they turned their backs too4 ,i shouted to my men to take up their luggage and march2 some did so with alacrity1 feeling that they had disobeyed orders by remaining2 but one of them refused1 and was preparing to fire at ,kawawa1 until ,i gave him a punch on the head with the pistol1 and made him go too4 ,i felt here1 as elsewhere1 that subordination must be maintained at all risks4 ,we all moved into the forest1 the people of ,kawawa standing about a hundred yards off1 gazing1 but not firing a shot or an arrow4 ,it is extremely unpleasant to part with these chieftains thus1 after spending a day or two in the most amicable intercourse1 and in a part where the people are generally civil4 ,this ,kawawa1 however1 is not a good specimen of the ,balonda chiefs1 and is rather notorious in the neighborhood for his folly4 ,we were told that he has good reason to believe that ,matiamvo will some day cut off his head for his disregard of the rights of strangers4 ,kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by the unceremonious way in which we had left him2 for1 when we had reached the ford of the ,kasai1 about ten miles distant1 we found that he had sent four of his men1 with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage4 ,we were here duly informed that we must deliver up all the articles mentioned1 and one of our men besides4 ,this demand for one of our number always nettled every heart4 ,the canoes were taken away before our eyes1 and we were supposed to be quite helpless without them1 at a river a good hundred yards broad1 and very deep4 ,pitsane stood on the bank1 gazing with apparent indifference on the stream1 and made an accurate observation of where the canoes were hidden among the reeds4 ,the ferrymen casually asked one of my ,batoka if they had rivers in his country1 and he answered with truth1 ,no1 we have none4 ,kawawa's people then felt sure we could not cross4 ,i thought of swimming when they were gone2 but after it was dark1 by the unasked loan of one of the hidden canoes1 we soon were snug in our bivouac on the southern bank of the ,kasai4 ,i left some beads as payment for some meal which had been presented by the ferrymen2 and1 the canoe having been left on their own side of the river1 ,pitsane and his companions laughed uproariously at the disgust our enemies would feel1 and their perplexity as to who had been our paddler across4 ,they were quite sure that ,kawawa would imagine that we had been ferried over by his own people1 and would be divining to find out who had done the deed4 ,when ready to depart in the morning1 ,kawawa's people appeared on the opposite heights1 and could scarcely believe their eyes when they saw us prepared to start away to the south4 ,at last one of them called out1 ,ah6 ye are bad1 to which ,pitsane and his companions retorted1 ,ah6 ye are good1 and we thank you for the loan of your canoe4 ,we were careful to explain the whole of the circumstances to ,katema and the other chiefs1 and they all agreed that we were perfectly justifiable under the circumstances1 and that ,matiamvo would approve our conduct4 ,when any thing that might bear an unfavorable construction happens among themselves1 they send explanations to each other4 ,the mere fact of doing so prevents them from losing their character1 for there is public opinion even among them4 ,chapter #bd4 ,level ,plains--,vultures and other ,birds--,diversity of ,color in ,flowers of the same ,species--,the ,sundew--,twenty-seventh ,attack of ,fever--,a ,river which flows in opposite ,directions--,lake ,dilolo the ,watershed between the ,atlantic and ,indian ,oceans--,position of ,rocks--,sir ,roderick ,murchison's ,explanation--,characteristics of the ,rainy ,season in connection with the ,floods of the ,zambesi and the ,nile--,probable ,reason of ,difference in ,amount of ,rain ,south and ,north of the ,equator--,arab ,reports of ,region east of ,londa--,probable ,watershed of the ,zambesi and the ,nile--,lake ,dilolo--,reach ,katema's ,town3 his renewed ,hospitality2 desire to appear like a ,white ,man2 ludicrous ,departure--,jackdaws-- ,ford southern ,branch of ,lake ,dilolo--,small ,fish--,project for a ,makololo ,village near the ,confluence of the ,leeba and the ,leeambye--,hearty ,welcome from ,shinte--,kolimbota's ,wound--,plant-seeds and ,fruit-trees brought from ,angola--,masiko and ,limboa's ,quarrel--,nyamoana now a ,widow--,purchase ,canoes and descend the ,leeba--,herds of wild ,animals on its ,banks--,unsuccessful ,buffalo-hunt--,frogs--,sinbad and the ,tsetse-- ,dispatch a ,message to ,manenko--,arrival of her ,husband ,sambanza--,the ,ceremony called ,kasendi--,unexpected ,fee for performing a surgical ,operation--,social ,condition of the ,tribes--,desertion of ,mboenga--,stratagem of ,mambowe ,hunters--,water-turtles--,charged by a ,buffalo--,reception from the ,people of ,libonta--,explain the ,causes of our long ,delay--,pitsane's ,speech--,thanksgiving ,services--,appearance of my ,braves--,wonderful ,kindness of the ,people4 ,after leaving the ,kasai1 we entered upon the extensive level plains which we had formerly found in a flooded condition4 ,the water on them was not yet dried up1 as it still remained in certain hollow spots4 ,vultures were seen floating in the air1 showing that carrion was to be found2 and1 indeed1 we saw several of the large game1 but so exceedingly wild as to be unapproachable4 ,numbers of caterpillars mounted the stalks of grass1 and many dragonflies and butterflies appeared1 though this was winter4 ,the caprimulgus or goat-sucker1 swifts1 and different kinds of swallows1 with a fiery-red bee-eater in flocks1 showed that the lowest temperature here does not destroy the insects on which they feed4 ,jet-black larks1 with yellow shoulders1 enliven the mornings with their songs1 but they do not continue so long on the wing as ours1 nor soar so high4 ,we saw many of the pretty white ardea1 and other water-birds1 flying over the spots not yet dried up2 and occasionally wild ducks1 but these only in numbers sufficient to remind us that we were approaching the ,zambesi1 where every water-fowl has a home4 ,while passing across these interminable-looking plains1 the eye rests with pleasure on a small flower1 which exists in such numbers as to give its own hue to the ground4 ,one broad band of yellow stretches across our path4 ,on looking at the flowers which formed this golden carpet1 we saw every variety of that color1 from the palest lemon to the richest orange4 ,crossing a hundred yards of this1 we came upon another broad band of the same flower1 but blue1 and this color is varied from the lightest tint to dark blue1 and even purple4 ,i had before observed the same flower possessing different colors in different parts of the country1 and once a great number of liver-colored flowers1 which elsewhere were yellow4 ,even the color of the birds changed with the district we passed through2 but never before did ,i see such a marked change as from yellow to blue1 repeated again and again on the same plain4 ,another beautiful plant attracted my attention so strongly on these plains that ,i dismounted to examine it4 ,to my great delight ,i found it to be an old home acquaintance1 a species of ,drosera1 closely resembling our own sundew 7',drosera ,anglia'74 ,the flower-stalk never attains a height of more than two or three inches1 and the leaves are covered with reddish hairs1 each of which has a drop of clammy fluid at its tip1 making the whole appear as if spangled over with small diamonds4 ,i noticed it first in the morning1 and imagined the appearance was caused by the sun shining on drops of dew2 but1 as it continued to maintain its brilliancy during the heat of the day1 ,i proceeded to investigate the cause of its beauty1 and found that the points of the hairs exuded pure liquid1 in1 apparently1 capsules of clear1 glutinous matter4 ,they were thus like dewdrops preserved from evaporation4 ,the clammy fluid is intended to entrap insects1 which1 dying on the leaf1 probably yield nutriment to the plant4 ,during our second day on this extensive plain ,i suffered from my twenty-seventh attack of fever1 at a part where no surface-water was to be found4 ,we never thought it necessary to carry water with us in this region2 and now1 when ,i was quite unable to move on1 my men soon found water to allay my burning thirst by digging with sticks a few feet beneath the surface4 ,we had thus an opportunity of observing the state of these remarkable plains at different seasons of the year4 ,next day we pursued our way1 and on the #hth of ,june we forded the ,lotembwa to the ,n4,w4 of ,dilolo1 and regained our former path4 ,the ,lotembwa here is about a mile wide1 about three feet deep1 and full of the lotus1 papyrus1 arum1 mat-rushes1 and other aquatic plants4 ,i did not observe the course in which the water flowed while crossing2 but1 having noticed before that the ,lotembwa on the other side of the ,lake ,dilolo flowed in a southerly direction1 ,i supposed that this was simply a prolongation of the same river beyond ,dilolo1 and that it rose in this large marsh1 which we had not seen in our progress to the ,n4,w4 ,but when we came to the ,southern ,lotembwa1 we were informed by ,shakatwala that the river we had crossed flowed in an opposite direction--not into ,dilolo1 but into the ,kasai4 ,this phenomenon of a river running in opposite directions struck even his mind as strange2 and1 though ,i did not observe the current1 simply from taking it for granted that it was toward the lake1 ,i have no doubt that his assertion1 corroborated as it was by others1 is correct1 and that the ,dilolo is actually the watershed between the river systems that flow to the east and west4 ,i would have returned in order to examine more carefully this most interesting point1 but1 having had my lower extremities chilled in crossing the ,northern ,lotembwa1 ,i was seized with vomiting of blood1 and1 besides1 saw no reason to doubt the native testimony4 ,the distance between ,dilolo and the valleys leading to that of the ,kasai is not more than fifteen miles1 and the plains between are perfectly level2 and1 had ,i returned1 ,i should only have found that this little lake ,dilolo1 by giving a portion to the ,kasai and another to the ,zambesi1 distributes its waters to the ,atlantic and ,indian ,oceans4 ,i state the fact exactly as it opened to my own mind1 for it was only now that ,i apprehended the true form of the river systems and continent4 ,i had seen the various rivers of this country on the western side flowing from the subtending ridges into the centre1 and had received information from natives and ,arabs that most of the rivers on the eastern side of the same great region took a somewhat similar course from an elevated ridge there1 and that all united in two main drains1 the one flowing to the north and the other to the south1 and that the northern drain found its way out by the ,congo to the west1 and the southern by the ,zambesi to the east4 ,i was thus on the watershed1 or highest point of these two great systems1 but still not more than #djjj feet above the level of the sea1 and #ajjj feet lower than the top of the western ridge we had already crossed2 yet1 instead of lofty snow-clad mountains appearing to verify the conjectures of the speculative1 we had extensive plains1 over which one may travel a month without seeing any thing higher than an ant-hill or a tree4 ,i was not then aware that any one else had discovered the elevated trough form of the centre of ,africa4 ,i had observed that the old schistose rocks on the sides dipped in toward the centre of the country1 and their strike nearly corresponded with the major axis of the continent2 and also that where the later erupted trap rocks had been spread out in tabular masses over the central plateau1 they had borne angular fragments of the older rocks in their substance2 but the partial generalization which the observations led to was1 that great volcanic action had taken place in ancient times1 somewhat in the same way it does now1 at distances of not more than three hundred miles from the sea1 and that this igneous action1 extending along both sides of the continent1 had tilted up the lateral rocks in the manner they are now seen to lie4 ,the greater energy and more extended range of igneous action in those very remote periods when ,africa was formed1 embracing all the flanks1 imparted to it its present very simple literal outline4 ,this was the length to which ,i had come4 ,the trap rocks1 which now constitute the filling up of the great valley1 were always a puzzle to me till favored with ,sir ,roderick ,murchison's explanation of the original form of the continent1 for then ,i could see clearly why these trap rocks1 which still lie in a perfectly horizontal position on extensive areas1 held in their substance angular fragments1 containing algae of the old schists1 which form the bottom of the original lacustrine basin3 the traps1 in bursting through1 had broken them off and preserved them4 ,there are1 besides1 ranges of hills in the central parts1 composed of clay and sandstone schists1 with the ripple mark distinct1 in which no fossils appear2 but as they are usually tilted away from the masses of horizontal trap1 it is probable that they too were a portion of the original bottom1 and fossils may yet be found in them499 99 ,after dwelling upon the geological structure of the ,cape ,colony as developed by ,mr4 ,a4 ,bain1 and the existence in very remote periods of lacustrine conditions in the central part of ,south ,africa1 as proved by fresh-water and terrestrial fossils1 ,sir ,roderick ,murchison thus writes3 ,such as ,south ,africa is now1 such have been her main features during countless past ages anterior to the creation of the human race2 for the old rocks which form her outer fringe unquestionably circled round an interior marshy or lacustrine country1 in which the ,dicynodon flourished1 at a time when not a single animal was similar to any living thing which now inhabits the surface of our globe4 ,the present central and meridian zone of waters1 whether lakes or marshes1 extending from ,lake ,tchad to ,lake ',ngami1 with hippopotami on their banks1 are therefore but the great modern residual geographical phenomena of those of a mesozoic age4 ,the differences1 however1 between the geological past of ,africa and her present state are enormous4 ,since that primeval time1 the lands have been much elevated above the sea-level-- eruptive rocks piercing in parts through them2 deep rents and defiles have been suddenly formed in the subtending ridges through which some rivers escape outward4 ,travelers will eventually ascertain whether the basin-shaped structure1 which is here announced as having been the great feature of the most ancient1 as it is of the actual geography of ,south ,africa 7i4e41 from primeval times to the present day71 does1 or does not1 extend into ,northern ,africa4 ,looking at that much broader portion of the continent1 we have some reason to surmise that the higher mountains also form1 in a general sense1 its flanks only4--,president's ,address1 ,royal ,geographical ,society1 #aheb1 p4 cxxiii4 ,the characteristics of the rainy season in this wonderfully humid region may account in some measure for the periodical floods of the ,zambesi1 and perhaps the ,nile4 ,the rains seem to follow the course of the sun1 for they fall in ,october and ,november1 when the sun passes over this zone on his way south4 ,on reaching the tropic of ,capricorn in ,december1 it is dry2 and ,december and ,january are the months in which injurious droughts are most dreaded near that tropic 7from ,kolobeng to ,linyanti74 ,as he returns again to the north in ,february1 ,march1 and ,april1 we have the great rains of the year2 and the plains1 which in ,october and ,november were well moistened1 and imbibed rain like sponges1 now become supersaturated1 and pour forth those floods of clear water which inundate the banks of the ,zambesi4 ,somewhat the same phenomenon probably causes the periodical inundations of the ,nile4 ,the two rivers rise in the same region2 but there is a difference in the period of flood1 possibly from their being on opposite sides of the equator4 ,the waters of the ,nile are said to become turbid in ,june2 and the flood attains its greatest height in ,august1 or the period when we may suppose the supersaturation to occur4 ,the subject is worthy the investigation of those who may examine the region between the equator and #aj ,deg4 ,s42 for the ,nile does not show much increase when the sun is at its farthest point north1 or tropic of ,cancer1 but at the time of its returning to the equator1 exactly as in the other case when he is on ,capricorn1 and the ,zambesi is affected499 99 ,the above is from my own observation1 together with information derived from the ,portuguese in the interior of ,angola2 and ,i may add that the result of many years' observation by ,messrs4 ,gabriel and ,brand at ,loanda1 on the west coast1 is in accordance therewith4 ,it rains there between the #ast and #cjth of ,november1 but ,january and ,december are usually both warm and dry4 ,the heavier rains commence about the #ast of ,february1 and last until the #aeth of ,may4 ,then no rain falls between the #bjth of ,may and the #ast of ,november4 ,the rain averages from #ab to #ae inches per annum4 ,in #aheb it was #ab4jcd inches2 in #ahec1 #ae4dgc inches4 ,although ,i had no means of measuring the amount of rain which fell in ,londa1 ,i feel certain that the annual quantity exceeds very much that which falls on the coast1 because for a long time we noticed that every dawn was marked by a deluging shower1 which began without warning-drops or thunder4 ,i observed that the rain ceased suddenly on the #bhth of ,april1 and the lesser rains commenced about a fortnight before the beginning of ,november4 ,from information derived from ,arabs of ,zanzibar1 whom ,i met at ,naliele in the middle of the country1 the region to the east of the parts of ,londa over which we have traveled resembles them in its conformation4 ,they report swampy steppes1 some of which have no trees1 where the inhabitants use grass1 and stalks of native corn1 for fuel4 ,a large shallow lake is also pointed out in that direction1 named ,tanganyenka1 which requires three days for crossing in canoes4 ,it is connected with another named ,kalagwe 7,garague871 farther north1 and may be the ,nyanja of the ,maravim4 ,from this lake is derived1 by numerous small streams1 the ,river ,loapula1 the eastern branch of the ,zambesi1 which1 coming from the ,n4,e41 flows past the town of ,cazembe4 ,the southern end of this lake is ten days northeast of the town of ,cazembe2 and as that is probably more than five days from ,shinte1 we can not have been nearer to it than #aej miles4 ,probably this lake is the watershed between the ,zambesi and the ,nile1 as ,lake ,dilolo is that between the ,leeba and ,kasai4 ,but1 however this may be1 the phenomena of the rainy season show that it is not necessary to assume the existence of high snowy mountains until we get reliable information4 ,this1 it is to be hoped1 will be one of the results of the researches of ,captain ,burton in his present journey4 ,the original valley formation of the continent determined the northern and southern course of the ,zambesi in the centre1 and also of the ancient river which once flowed from the ,linyanti basin to the ,orange ,river4 ,it also gave direction to the southern and northern flow of the ,kasai and the ,nile4 ,we find that between the latitudes1 say #f ,deg4 and #ab ,deg4 ,s41 from which1 in all probability1 the head waters of those rivers diverge1 there is a sort of elevated partition in the great longitudinal valley4 ,presuming on the correctness of the native information1 which places the humid region to which the ,nile and ,zambesi probably owe their origin within the latitudes indicated1 why does so much more rain fall there than in the same latitudes north of the equator8 ,why does ,darfur not give rise to great rivers1 like ,londa and the country east of it8 ,the prevailing winds in the ocean opposite the territory pointed out are said to be from the ,n4,e4 and ,s4,e4 during a great part of the year2 they extend their currents on one side at least of the equator quite beyond the middle of the continent1 and even until in ,angola they meet the sea-breeze from the ,atlantic4 ,if the reader remembers the explanation given at page #aji199 that the comparative want of rain on the ,kalahari ,desert is caused by the mass of air losing its humidity as it passes up and glides over the subtending ridge1 and will turn to the map1 he may perceive that the same cause is in operation in an intense degree by the mountains of ,abyssinia to render the region about ,darfur still more arid1 and that the flanking ranges mentioned lie much nearer the equator than those which rob the ,kalahari of humidity4 ,the ,nile1 even while running through a part of that region1 receives remarkably few branches4 ,observing also that there is no known abrupt lateral mountain-range between #f ,deg4 and #ab ,deg4 ,s41 but that there is an elevated partition there1 and that the southing and northing of the southeasters and northeasters probably cause a confluence of the two great atmospheric currents1 he will perceive an accumulation of humidity on the flanks and crown of the partition1 instead of1 as elsewhere1 opposite the ,kalahari and ,darfur1 a deposition of the atmospheric moisture on the eastern slopes of the subtending ridges4 ,this explanation is offered with all deference to those who have made meteorology their special study1 and as a hint to travelers who may have opportunity to examine the subject more fully4 ,i often observed1 while on a portion of the partition1 that the air by night was generally quite still1 but as soon as the sun's rays began to shoot across the upper strata of the atmosphere in the early morning1 a copious discharge came suddenly down from the accumulated clouds4 ,it always reminded me of the experiment of putting a rod into a saturated solution of a certain salt1 causing instant crystallization4 ,this1 too1 was the period when ,i often observed the greatest amount of cold4 99 ,since the explanation in page #aji ,chapter #e ,paragraph #e was printed1 ,i have been pleased to see the same explanation given by the popular astronomer and natural philosopher1 ,m4 ,babinet1 in reference to the climate of ,france4 ,it is quoted from a letter of a correspondent of the ',times' in ,paris3 ,in the normal meteorological state of ,france and ,europe1 the west wind1 which is the counter-current of the trade-winds that constantly blow from the east under the tropics--the west wind1 ,i say1 after having touched ,france and ,europe by the western shores1 re-descends by ,marseilles and the ,mediterranean1 ,constantinople and the ,archipelago1 ,astrakan and the ,caspian ,sea1 in order to merge again into the great circuit of the general winds1 and be thus carried again into the equatorial current4 ,whenever these masses of air1 impregnated with humidity during their passage over the ocean1 meet with an obstacle1 such as a chain of mountains1 for example1 they slide up the acclivity1 and1 when they reach the crest1 find themselves relieved from a portion of the column of air which pressed upon them4 ,thus1 dilating by reason of their elasticity1 they cause a considerable degree of cold1 and a precipitation of humidity in the form of fogs1 clouds1 rain1 or snow4 ,a similar effect occurs whatever be the obstacle they find in their way4 ,now this is what had gradually taken place before #ahef4 ,by some cause or other connected with the currents of the atmosphere1 the warm current from the west had annually ascended northward1 so that1 instead of passing through ,france1 it came from the ,baltic and the north of ,germany1 thus momentarily disturbing the ordinary law of the temperatures of ,europe4 ,but in #ahef a sudden change occurred4 ,the western current again passed1 as before1 through the centre of ,france4 ,it met with an obstacle in the air which had not yet found its usual outlet toward the west and south4 ,hence a stoppage1 a rising1 a consequent dilation and fall of temperature1 extraordinary rains and inundations4 ,but1 now that the natural state of things is restored1 nothing appears to prognosticate the return of similar disasters4 ,were the western current found annually to move further north1 we might again experience meteorological effects similar to those of #ahef4 ,hence the regular seasons may be considered re-established in ,france for several years to come4 ,the important meteorological communications which the ,imperial ,observatory is daily establishing with the other countries of ,europe1 and the introduction of apparatus for measuring the velocity of the aerial currents and prevailing winds1 will soon afford prognostics sufficiently certain to enable an enlightened government to provide in time against future evils4 ,after crossing the ,northern ,lotembwa we met a party of the people of ,kangenke1 who had treated us kindly on our way to the north1 and sent him a robe of striped calico1 with an explanation of the reason for not returning through his village4 ,we then went on to the ,lake ,dilolo4 ,it is a fine sheet of water1 six or eight miles long1 and one or two broad1 and somewhat of a triangular shape4 ,a branch proceeds from one of the angles1 and flows into the ,southern ,lotembwa4 ,though laboring under fever1 the sight of the blue waters1 and the waves lashing the shore1 had a most soothing influence on the mind1 after so much of lifeless1 flat1 and gloomy forest4 ,the heart yearned for the vivid impressions which are always created by the sight of the broad expanse of the grand old ocean4 ,that has life in it2 but the flat uniformities over which we had roamed made me feel as if buried alive4 ,we found ,moene ,dilolo 7,lord of the ,lake7 a fat1 jolly fellow1 who lamented that when they had no strangers they had plenty of beer1 and always none when they came4 ,he gave us a handsome present of meal and putrid buffalo's flesh4 ,meat can not be too far gone for them1 as it is used only in small quantities1 as a sauce to their tasteless manioc4 ,they were at this time hunting antelopes1 in order to send the skins as a tribute to ,matiamvo4 ,great quantities of fish are caught in the lake2 and numbers of young water-fowl are now found in the nests among the reeds4 ,our progress had always been slow1 and ,i found that our rate of traveling could only be five hours a day for five successive days4 ,on the sixth1 both men and oxen showed symptoms of knocking up4 ,we never exceeded two and a half or three miles an hour in a straight line1 though all were anxious to get home4 ,the difference in the rate of traveling between ourselves and the slave-traders was our having a rather quicker step1 a longer day's journey1 and twenty traveling days a month instead of their ten4 ,when one of my men became ill1 but still could walk1 others parted his luggage among them2 yet we had often to stop one day a week1 besides ,sundays1 simply for the sake of rest4 ,the latitude of ,lake ,dilolo is #aa;d #cb' #a ,s41 long4 #bb;d #bg' ,e4 ,,june #ad,,th4 ,we reached the collection of straggling villages over which ,katema rules1 and were thankful to see old familiar faces again4 ,shakatwala performed the part of a chief by bringing forth abundant supplies of food in his master's name4 ,he informed us that ,katema1 too1 was out hunting skins for ,matiamvo4 ,in different parts of this country1 we remarked that when old friends were inquired for1 the reply was1 ,ba hola 7,they are getting better72 or if the people of a village were inquired for1 the answer was1 ,they are recovering1 as if sickness was quite a common thing4 ,indeed1 many with whom we had made acquaintance in going north we now found were in their graves4 ,on the #aeth ,katema came home from his hunting1 having heard of our arrival4 ,he desired me to rest myself and eat abundantly1 for1 being a great man1 ,i must feel tired2 and he took good care to give the means of doing so4 ,all the people in these parts are exceedingly kind and liberal with their food1 and ,katema was not behindhand4 ,when he visited our encampment1 ,i presented him with a cloak of red baize1 ornamented with gold tinsel1 which cost thirty shillings1 according to the promise ,i had made in going to ,londa2 also a cotton robe1 both large and small beads1 an iron spoon1 and a tin pannikin containing a quarter of a pound of powder4 ,he seemed greatly pleased with the liberality shown1 and assured me that the way was mine1 and that no one should molest me in it if he could help it4 ,we were informed by ,shakatwala that the chief never used any part of a present before making an offer of it to his mother1 or the departed spirit to whom he prayed4 ,katema asked if ,i could not make a dress for him like the one ,i wore1 so that he might appear as a white man when any stranger visited him4 ,one of the councilors1 imagining that he ought to second this by begging1 ,katema checked him by saying1 ,whatever strangers give1 be it little or much1 ,i always receive it with thankfulness1 and never trouble them for more4 ,on departing1 he mounted on the shoulders of his spokesman1 as the most dignified mode of retiring4 ,the spokesman being a slender man1 and the chief six feet high1 and stout in proportion1 there would have been a break-down had he not been accustomed to it4 ,we were very much pleased with ,katema2 and next day he presented us with a cow1 that we might enjoy the abundant supplies of meal he had given with good animal food4 ,he then departed for the hunting-ground1 after assuring me that the town and every thing in it were mine1 and that his factotum1 ,shakatwala1 would remain and attend to every want1 and also conduct us to the ,leeba4 ,on attempting to slaughter the cow ,katema had given1 we found the herd as wild as buffaloes2 and one of my men having only wounded it1 they fled many miles into the forest1 and were with great difficulty brought back4 ,even the herdsman was afraid to go near them4 ,the majority of them were white1 and they were all beautiful animals4 ,after hunting it for two days it was dispatched at last by another ball4 ,here we saw a flock of jackdaws1 a rare sight in ,londa1 busy with the grubs in the valley1 which are eaten by the people too4 ,leaving ,katema's town on the #aith1 and proceeding four miles to the eastward1 we forded the southern branch of ,lake ,dilolo4 ,we found it a mile and a quarter broad2 and1 as it flows into the ,lotembwa1 the lake would seem to be a drain of the surrounding flats1 and to partake of the character of a fountain4 ,the ford was waist-deep1 and very difficult1 from the masses of arum and rushes through which we waded4 ,going to the eastward about three miles1 we came to the ,southern ,lotembwa itself1 running in a valley two miles broad4 ,it is here eighty or ninety yards wide1 and contains numerous islands covered with dense sylvan vegetation4 ,in the rainy season the valley is flooded1 and as the waters dry up great multitudes of fish are caught4 ,this happens very extensively over the country1 and fishing-weirs are met with every where4 ,a species of small fish1 about the size of the minnow1 is caught in bagfuls and dried in the sun4 ,the taste is a pungent aromatic bitter1 and it was partaken of freely by my people1 although they had never met with it before4 ,on many of the paths which had been flooded a nasty sort of slime of decayed vegetable matter is left behind1 and much sickness prevails during the drying up of the water4 ,we did not find our friend ,mozinkwa at his pleasant home on the ,lokaloeje2 his wife was dead1 and he had removed elsewhere4 ,he followed us some distance1 but our reappearance seemed to stir up his sorrows4 ,we found the pontoon at the village in which we left it4 ,it had been carefully preserved1 but a mouse had eaten a hole in it and rendered it useless4 ,we traversed the extended plain on the north bank of the ,leeba1 and crossed this river a little farther on at ,kanyonke's village1 which is about twenty miles west of the ,peri hills1 our former ford4 ,the first stage beyond the ,leeba was at the rivulet ,loamba1 by the village of ,chebende1 nephew of ,shinte2 and next day we met ,chebende himself returning from the funeral of ,samoana1 his father4 ,he was thin and haggard-looking compared to what he had been before1 the probable effect of the orgies in which he had been engaged4 ,pitsane and ,mohorisi1 having concocted the project of a ,makololo village on the banks of the ,leeba1 as an approach to the white man's market1 spoke to ,chebende1 as an influential man1 on the subject1 but he cautiously avoided expressing an opinion4 ,the idea which had sprung up in their own minds of an establishment somewhere near the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye1 commended itself to my judgment at the time as a geographically suitable point for civilization and commerce4 ,the right bank of the ,leeba there is never flooded2 and from that point there is communication by means of canoes to the country of the ,kanyika1 and also to ,cazembe and beyond1 with but one or two large waterfalls between4 ,there is no obstruction down to the ,barotse valley2 and there is probably canoe navigation down the ,kafue or ,bashukulompo ,river1 though it is reported to contain many cataracts4 ,it flows through a fertile country1 well peopled with ,bamasasa1 who cultivate the native produce largely4 ,as this was the middle of winter1 it may be mentioned that the temperature of the water in the morning was #dg ,deg41 and that of the air #ej ,deg41 which1 being loaded with moisture1 was very cold to the feelings4 ,yet the sun was very hot by day1 and the temperature in the coolest shade from #hh ,deg4 to #ij ,deg42 in the evenings from #gf ,deg4 to #gh ,deg4 ,before reaching the town of ,shinte we passed through many large villages of the ,balobale1 who have fled from the chief ,kangenke4 ,the ,mambari from ,bihe come constantly to him for trade2 and1 as he sells his people1 great numbers of them escape to ,shinte and ,katema1 who refuse to give them up4 ,we reached our friend ,shinte1 and received a hearty welcome from this friendly old man1 and abundant provisions of the best he had4 ,on hearing the report of the journey given by my companions1 and receiving a piece of cotton cloth about two yards square1 he said1 ,these ,mambari cheat us by bringing little pieces only2 but the next time you pass ,i shall send men with you to trade for me in ,loanda4 ,when ,i explained the use made of the slaves he sold1 and that he was just destroying his own tribe by selling his people1 and enlarging that of the ,mambari for the sake of these small pieces of cloth1 it seemed to him quite a new idea4 ,he entered into a long detail of his troubles with ,masiko1 who had prevented him from cultivating that friendship with the ,makololo which ,i had inculcated1 and had even plundered the messengers he had sent with ,kolimbota to the ,barotse valley4 ,shinte was particularly anxious to explain that ,kolimbota had remained after my departure of his own accord1 and that he had engaged in the quarrels of the country without being invited2 that1 in attempting to capture one of the children of a ,balobale man1 who had offended the ,balonda by taking honey from a hive which did not belong to him1 ,kolimbota had got wounded by a shot in the thigh1 but that he had cured the wound1 given him a wife1 and sent a present of cloth to ,sekeletu1 with a full account of the whole affair4 ,from the statement of ,shinte we found that ,kolimbota had learned1 before we left his town1 that the way we intended to take was so dangerous that it would be better for him to leave us to our fate2 and1 as he had taken one of our canoes with him1 it seemed evident that he did not expect us to return4 ,shinte1 however1 sent a recommendation to his sister ,nyamoana to furnish as many canoes as we should need for our descent of the ,leeba and ,leeambye4 ,as ,i had been desirous of introducing some of the fruit-trees of ,angola1 both for my own sake and that of the inhabitants1 we had carried a pot containing a little plantation of orange1 cashew-trees1 custard-apple-trees 7'anona'71 and a fig-tree1 with coffee1 aracas 7',araca pomifera'71 and papaws 7',carica papaya'74 ,fearing that1 if we took them farther south at present1 they might be killed by the cold1 we planted them out in an inclosure of one of ,shinte's principal men1 and1 at his request1 promised to give ,shinte a share when grown4 ,they know the value of fruits1 but at present have none except wild ones4 ,a wild fruit we frequently met with in ,londa is eatable1 and1 when boiled1 yields a large quantity of oil1 which is much used in anointing both head and body4 ,he eagerly accepted some of the seeds of the palm-oil-tree 7',elaeis ,guineensis'71 when told that this would produce oil in much greater quantity than their native tree1 which is not a palm4 ,there are very few palm-trees in this country1 but near ,bango we saw a few of a peculiar palm1 the ends of the leaf-stalks of which remain attached to the trunk1 giving it a triangular shape4 ,it is pleasant to observe that all the tribes in ,central ,africa are fond of agriculture4 ,my men had collected quantities of seeds in ,angola1 and now distributed them among their friends4 ,some even carried onions1 garlic1 and bird's-eye pepper1 growing in pannikins4 ,the courts of the ,balonda1 planted with tobacco1 sugar-cane1 and plants used as relishes1 led me to the belief that care would be taken of my little nursery4 ,the thermometer early in the mornings ranged from #db ,deg4 to #eb ,deg41 at noon #id ,deg4 to #if ,deg41 and in the evening about #gj ,deg4 ,it was placed in the shade of my tent1 which was pitched under the thickest tree we could find4 ,the sensation of cold1 after the heat of the day1 was very keen4 ,the ,balonda at this season never leave their fires till nine or ten in the morning4 ,as the cold was so great here1 it was probably frosty at ,linyanti2 ,i therefore feared to expose my young trees there4 ,the latitude of ,shinte's town is #ab;d #cg' #ce ,s41 longitude #bb;d #dg' ,e4 ,we remained with ,shinte till the #fth of ,july1 he being unwilling to allow us to depart before hearing in a formal manner1 in the presence of his greatest councilor ,chebende1 a message from ,limboa1 the brother of ,masiko4 ,when ,masiko fled from the ,makololo country in consequence of a dislike of being in a state of subjection to ,sebituane1 he came into the territory of ,shinte1 who received him kindly1 and sent orders to all the villages in his vicinity to supply him with food4 ,limboa fled in a westerly direction with a number of people1 and also became a chief4 ,his country was sometimes called ,nyenko1 but by the ,mambari and native ,portuguese traders ,mboela--the place where they turned again1 or back4 ,as one of the fruits of polygamy1 the children of different mothers are always in a state of variance4 ,each son endeavors to gain the ascendency by enticing away the followers of the others4 ,the mother of ,limboa being of a high family1 he felt aggrieved because the situation chosen by ,masiko was better than his4 ,masiko lived at a convenient distance from the ,saloisho hills1 where there is abundance of iron ore1 with which the inhabitants manufacture hoes1 knives1 etc4 ,they are also skillful in making wooden vessels4 ,limboa felt annoyed because he was obliged to apply for these articles through his brother1 whom he regarded as his inferior1 and accordingly resolved to come into the same district4 ,as this was looked upon as an assertion of superiority which ,masiko would resist1 it was virtually a declaration of war4 ,both ,masiko and ,shinte pleaded my injunction to live in peace and friendship1 but ,limboa1 confident of success1 now sent the message which ,i was about to hear--,that he1 too1 highly approved of the 'word' ,i had given1 but would only for once transgress a little1 and live at peace for ever afterward4 ,he now desired the aid of ,shinte to subdue his brother4 ,messengers came from ,masiko at the same time1 desiring assistance to repel him4 ,shinte felt inclined to aid ,limboa1 but1 as he had advised them both to wait till ,i came1 ,i now urged him to let the quarrel alone1 and he took my advice4 ,we parted on the best possible terms with our friend ,shinte1 and proceeded by our former path to the village of his sister ,nyamoana1 who is now a widow4 ,she received us with much apparent feeling1 and said1 ,we had removed from our former abode to the place where you found us1 and had no idea then that it was the spot where my husband was to die4 ,she had come to the ,river ,lofuje1 as they never remain in a place where death has once visited them4 ,we received the loan of five small canoes from her1 and also one of those we had left here before1 to proceed down the ,leeba4 ,after viewing the ,coanza at ,massangano1 ,i thought the ,leeba at least a third larger1 and upward of two hundred yards wide4 ,we saw evidence of its rise during its last flood having been upward of forty feet in perpendicular height2 but this is probably more than usual1 as the amount of rain was above the average4 ,my companions purchased also a number of canoes from the ,balonda4 ,these are very small1 and can carry only two persons4 ,they are made quite thin and light1 and as sharp as racing-skiffs1 because they are used in hunting animals in the water4 ,the price paid was a string of beads equal to the length of the canoe4 ,we advised them to bring canoes for sale to the ,makololo1 as they would gladly give them cows in exchange4 ,in descending the ,leeba we saw many herds of wild animals1 especially the tahetsi 7',aigoceros equina'71 one magnificent antelope1 the putokuane 7',antilope niger'71 and two fine lions4 ,the ,balobale1 however1 are getting well supplied with guns1 and will soon thin out the large game4 ,at one of the villages we were entreated to attack some buffaloes which grazed in the gardens every night and destroyed the manioc4 ,as we had had no success in shooting at the game we had seen1 and we all longed to have a meal of meat1 we followed the footprints of a number of old bulls4 ,they showed a great amount of cunning by selecting the densest parts of very closely-planted forests to stand or recline in during the day4 ,we came within six yards of them several times before we knew that they were so near4 ,we only heard them rush away among the crashing branches1 catching only a glimpse of them4 ,it was somewhat exciting to feel1 as we trod on the dry leaves with stealthy steps1 that1 for any thing we knew1 we might next moment be charged by one of the most dangerous beasts of the forest4 ,we threaded out their doublings for hours1 drawn on by a keen craving for animal food1 as we had been entirely without salt for upward of two months1 but never could get a shot4 ,in passing along the side of the water every where except in ,londa1 green frogs spring out at your feet1 and light in the water as if taking a header2 and on the ,leeambye and ,chobe we have great numbers of small green frogs 7',rana fasciata'1 ,boie71 which light on blades of grass with remarkable precision2 but on coming along the ,leeba ,i was struck by the sight of a light green toad about an inch long4 ,the leaf might be nearly perpendicular1 but it stuck to it like a fly4 ,it was of the same size as the ',brachymerus bi-fasciatus' 7,smith7199 which ,i saw only once in the ,bakwain country4 ,though small1 it was hideous1 being colored jet black1 with vermilion spots4 99 ,the discovery of this last species is thus mentioned by that accomplished naturalist1 ,dr4 ,smith3 ,on the banks of the ,limpopo ,river1 close to the tropic of ,capricorn1 a massive tree was cut down to obtain wood to repair a wagon4 ,the workman1 while sawing the trunk longitudinally nearly along its centre1 remarked1 on reaching a certain point1 ',it is hollow1 and will not answer the purpose for which it is wanted4' ,he persevered1 however1 and when a division into equal halves was effected1 it was discovered that the saw in its course had crossed a large hole1 in which were five specimens of the species just described1 each about an inch in length4 ,every exertion was made to discover a means of communication between the external air and the cavity1 but without success4 ,every part of the latter was probed with the utmost care1 and water was kept in each half for a considerable time1 without any passing into the wood4 ,the inner surface of the cavity was black1 as if charred1 and so was likewise the adjoining wood for half an inch from the cavity4 ,the tree1 at the part where the latter existed1 was #ai inches in diameter2 the length of the trunk was #ah feet4 ,when the ,batrachia above mentioned were discovered1 they appeared inanimate1 but the influence of a warm sun to which they were subjected soon imparted to them a moderate degree of vigor4 ,in a few hours from the time they were liberated they were tolerably active1 and able to move from place to place apparently with great ease4 ,before reaching the ,makondo rivulet1 latitude #ac;d #bc' #ab ,s41 we came upon the tsetse in such numbers that many bites were inflicted on my poor ox1 in spite of a man with a branch warding them off4 ,the bite of this insect does not affect the donkey as it does cattle4 ,the next morning1 the spots on which my ox had been bitten were marked by patches of hair about half an inch broad being wetted by exudation4 ,poor ,sinbad had carried me all the way from the ,leeba to ,golungo ,alto1 and all the way back again1 without losing any of his peculiarities1 or ever becoming reconciled to our perversity in forcing him away each morning from the pleasant pasturage on which he had fed4 ,i wished to give the climax to his usefulness1 and allay our craving for animal food at the same time2 but my men having some compunction1 we carried him to end his days in peace at ,naliele4 ,having dispatched a message to our old friend ,manenko1 we waited a day opposite her village1 which was about fifteen miles from the river4 ,her husband was instantly dispatched to meet us with liberal presents of food1 she being unable to travel in consequence of a burn on the foot4 ,sambanza gave us a detailed account of the political affairs of the country1 and of ,kolimbota's evil doings1 and next morning performed the ceremony called ,kasendi1 for cementing our friendship4 ,it is accomplished thus3 ,the hands of the parties are joined 7in this case ,pitsane and ,sambanza were the parties engaged72 small incisions are made on the clasped hands1 on the pits of the stomach of each1 and on the right cheeks and foreheads4 ,a small quantity of blood is taken off from these points in both parties by means of a stalk of grass4 ,the blood from one person is put into a pot of beer1 and that of the second into another2 each then drinks the other's blood1 and they are supposed to become perpetual friends or relations4 ,during the drinking of the beer1 some of the party continue beating the ground with short clubs1 and utter sentences by way of ratifying the treaty4 ,the men belonging to each then finish the beer4 ,the principals in the performance of ,kasendi are henceforth considered blood-relations1 and are bound to disclose to each other any impending evil4 ,if ,sekeletu should resolve to attack the ,balonda1 ,pitsane would be under obligation to give ,sambanza warning to escape1 and so on the other side4 ,they now presented each other with the most valuable presents they had to bestow4 ,sambanza walked off with ,pitsane's suit of green baize faced with red1 which had been made in ,loanda1 and ,pitsane1 besides abundant supplies of food1 obtained two shells similar to that ,i had received from ,shinte4 ,on one occasion ,i became blood-relation to a young woman by accident4 ,she had a large cartilaginous tumor between the bones of the fore-arm1 which1 as it gradually enlarged1 so distended the muscles as to render her unable to work4 ,she applied to me to excise it4 ,i requested her to bring her husband1 if he were willing to have the operation performed1 and1 while removing the tumor1 one of the small arteries squirted some blood into my eye4 ,she remarked1 when ,i was wiping the blood out of it1 ,you were a friend before1 now you are a blood-relation2 and when you pass this way1 always send me word1 that ,i may cook food for you4 ,in creating these friendships1 my men had the full intention of returning2 each one had his ',molekane' 7friend7 in every village of the friendly ,balonda4 ,mohorisi even married a wife in the town of ,katema1 and ,pitsane took another in the town of ,shinte4 ,these alliances were looked upon with great favor by the ,balonda chiefs1 as securing the good-will of the ,makololo4 ,in order that the social condition of the tribes may be understood by the reader1 ,i shall mention that1 while waiting for ,sambanza1 a party of ,barotse came from ,nyenko1 the former residence of ,limboa1 who had lately crossed the ,leeba on his way toward ,masiko4 ,the head man of this party had brought ,limboa's son to his father1 because the ,barotse at ,nyenko had1 since the departure of ,limboa1 elected ,nananko1 another son of ,santuru1 in his stead2 and our visitor1 to whom the boy had been intrusted as a guardian1 thinking him to be in danger1 fled with him to his father4 ,the ,barotse1 whom ,limboa had left behind at ,nyenko1 on proceeding to elect ,nananko1 said1 ,no1 it is quite too much for ,limboa to rule over two places4 ,i would have gone to visit ,limboa and ,masiko too1 in order to prevent hostilities1 but the state of my ox would not allow it4 ,i therefore sent a message to ,limboa by some of his men1 protesting against war with his brother1 and giving him formal notice that the path up the ,leeba had been given to us by the ,balonda1 the owners of the country1 and that no attempt must ever be made to obstruct free intercourse4 ,on leaving this place we were deserted by one of our party1 ,mboenga1 an ,ambonda man1 who had accompanied us all the way to ,loanda and back4 ,his father was living with ,masiko1 and it was natural for him to wish to join his own family again4 ,he went off honestly1 with the exception of taking a fine tari skin given me by ,nyamoana1 but he left a parcel of gun-flints which he had carried for me all the way from ,loanda4 ,i regretted parting with him thus1 and sent notice to him that he need not have run away1 and if he wished to come to ,sekeletu again he would be welcome4 ,we subsequently met a large party of ,barotse fleeing in the same direction2 but when ,i represented to them that there was a probability of their being sold as slaves in ,londa1 and none in the country of ,sekeletu1 they concluded to return4 ,the grievance which the ,barotse most feel is being obliged to live with ,sekeletu at ,linyanti1 where there is neither fish nor fowl1 nor any other kind of food1 equal in quantity to what they enjoy in their own fat valley4 ,a short distance below the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye we met a number of hunters belonging to the tribe called ,mambowe1 who live under ,masiko4 ,they had dried flesh of hippopotami1 buffaloes1 and alligators4 ,they stalk the animals by using the stratagem of a cap made of the skin of a leche's or poku's head1 having the horns still attached1 and another made so as to represent the upper white part of the crane called jabiru 7',mycteru ,senegalensis'71 with its long neck and beak above4 ,with these on1 they crawl through the grass2 they can easily put up their heads so far as to see their prey without being recognized until they are within bow-shot4 ,they presented me with three fine water-turtles199 one of which1 when cooked1 had upward of forty eggs in its body4 ,the shell of the egg is flexible1 and it is of the same size at both ends1 like those of the alligator4 ,the flesh1 and especially the liver1 is excellent4 ,the hunters informed us that1 when the message inculcating peace among the tribes came to ,masiko1 the common people were so glad at the prospect of binding up the spears1 that they ran to the river1 and bathed and plunged in it for joy4 ,this party had been sent by ,masiko to the ,makololo for aid to repel their enemy1 but1 afraid to go thither1 had spent the time in hunting4 ,they have a dread of the ,makololo1 and hence the joy they expressed when peace was proclaimed4 ,the ,mambowe hunters were much alarmed until my name was mentioned4 ,they then joined our party1 and on the following day discovered a hippopotamus dead1 which they had previously wounded4 ,this was the first feast of flesh my men had enjoyed1 for1 though the game was wonderfully abundant1 ,i had quite got out of the way of shooting1 and missed perpetually4 ,once ,i went with the determination of getting so close that ,i should not miss a zebra4 ,we went along one of the branches that stretch out from the river in a small canoe1 and two men1 stooping down as low as they could1 paddled it slowly along to an open space near to a herd of zebras and pokus4 ,peering over the edge of the canoe1 the open space seemed like a patch of wet ground1 such as is often seen on the banks of a river1 made smooth as the resting-place of alligators4 ,when we came within a few yards of it1 we found by the precipitate plunging of the reptile that this was a large alligator itself4 ,although ,i had been most careful to approach near enough1 ,i unfortunately only broke the hind leg of a zebra4 ,my two men pursued it1 but the loss of a hind leg does not prevent this animal from a gallop4 ,as ,i walked slowly after the men on an extensive plain covered with a great crop of grass1 which was 'laid' by its own weight1 ,i observed that a solitary buffalo1 disturbed by others of my own party1 was coming to me at a gallop4 ,i glanced around1 but the only tree on the plain was a hundred yards off1 and there was no escape elsewhere4 ,i therefore cocked my rifle1 with the intention of giving him a steady shot in the forehead when he should come within three or four yards of me4 ,the thought flashed across my mind1 ,what if your gun misses fire8 ,i placed it to my shoulder as he came on at full speed1 and that is tremendous1 though generally he is a lumbering-looking animal in his paces4 ,a small bush and bunch of grass fifteen yards off made him swerve a little1 and exposed his shoulder4 ,i just heard the ball crack there as ,i fell flat on my face4 ,the pain must have made him renounce his purpose1 for he bounded close past me on to the water1 where he was found dead4 ,in expressing my thankfulness to ,god among my men1 they were much offended with themselves for not being present to shield me from this danger4 ,the tree near me was a camel-thorn1 and reminded me that we had come back to the land of thorns again1 for the country we had left is one of evergreens4 99 ,it is probably a species allied to the ',sternotherus sinuatus' of ,dr4 ,smith1 as it has no disagreeable smell4 ,this variety annually leaves the water with so much regularity for the deposit of its eggs1 that the natives decide on the time of sowing their seed by its appearance4 ,,july #bg,,th4 ,we reached the town of ,libonta1 and were received with demonstrations of joy such as ,i had never witnessed before4 ,the women came forth to meet us1 making their curious dancing gestures and loud lulliloos4 ,some carried a mat and stick1 in imitation of a spear and shield4 ,others rushed forward and kissed the hands and cheeks of the different persons of their acquaintance among us1 raising such a dust that it was quite a relief to get to the men assembled and sitting with proper ,african decorum in the kotla4 ,we were looked upon as men risen from the dead1 for the most skillful of their diviners had pronounced us to have perished long ago4 ,after many expressions of joy at meeting1 ,i arose1 and1 thanking them1 explained the causes of our long delay1 but left the report to be made by their own countrymen4 ,formerly ,i had been the chief speaker1 now ,i would leave the task of speaking to them4 ,pitsane then delivered a speech of upward of an hour in length1 giving a highly flattering picture of the whole journey1 of the kindness of the white men in general1 and of ,mr4 ,gabriel in particular4 ,he concluded by saying that ,i had done more for them than they expected2 that ,i had not only opened up a path for them to the other white men1 but conciliated all the chiefs along the route4 ,the oldest man present rose and answered this speech1 and1 among other things1 alluded to the disgust ,i felt at the ,makololo for engaging in marauding expeditions against ,lechulatebe and ,sebolamakwaia1 of which we had heard from the first persons we met1 and which my companions most energetically denounced as mashue hela1 entirely bad4 ,he entreated me not to lose heart1 but to reprove ,sekeletu as my child4 ,another old man followed with the same entreaties4 ,the following day we observed as our thanksgiving to ,god for his goodness in bringing us all back in safety to our friends4 ,my men decked themselves out in their best1 and ,i found that1 although their goods were finished1 they had managed to save suits of ,european clothing1 which1 being white1 with their red caps1 gave them rather a dashing appearance4 ,they tried to walk like the soldiers they had seen in ,loanda1 and called themselves my braves 7batlabani74 ,during the service they all sat with their guns over their shoulders1 and excited the unbounded admiration of the women and children4 ,i addressed them all on the goodness of ,god in preserving us from all the dangers of strange tribes and disease4 ,we had a similar service in the afternoon4 ,the men gave us two fine oxen for slaughter1 and the women supplied us abundantly with milk1 meal1 and butter4 ,it was all quite gratuitous1 and ,i felt ashamed that ,i could make no return4 ,my men explained the total expenditure of our means1 and the ,libontese answered gracefully1 ,it does not matter2 you have opened a path for us1 and we shall have sleep4 ,strangers came flocking from a distance1 and seldom empty-handed4 ,their presents ,i distributed among my men4 ,our progress down the ,barotse valley was just like this4 ,every village gave us an ox1 and sometimes two4 ,the people were wonderfully kind4 ,i felt1 and still feel1 most deeply grateful1 and tried to benefit them in the only way ,i could1 by imparting the knowledge of that ,savior who can comfort and supply them in the time of need1 and my prayer is that he may send his good ,spirit to instruct them and lead them into his kingdom4 ,even now ,i earnestly long to return1 and make some recompense to them for their kindness4 ,in passing them on our way to the north1 their liberality might have been supposed to be influenced by the hope of repayment on our return1 for the white man's land is imagined to be the source of every ornament they prize most4 ,but1 though we set out from ,loanda with a considerable quantity of goods1 hoping both to pay our way through the stingy ,chiboque1 and to make presents to the kind ,balonda and still more generous ,makololo1 the many delays caused by sickness made us expend all my stock1 and all the goods my men procured by their own labor at ,loanda1 and we returned to the ,makololo as poor as when we set out4 ,yet no distrust was shown1 and my poverty did not lessen my influence4 ,they saw that ,i had been exerting myself for their benefit alone1 and even my men remarked1 ,though we return as poor as we went1 we have not gone in vain4 ,they began immediately to collect tusks of hippopotami and other ivory for a second journey4 ,chapter #be4 ,colony of ,birds called ,linkololo--,the ,village of ,chitlane--,murder of ,mpololo's ,daughter--,execution of the ,murderer and his ,wife--,my ,companions find that their ,wives have married other ,husbands-- ,sunday--,a ,party from ,masiko--,freedom of ,speech--,canoe struck by a ,hippopotamus--,gonye--,appearance of ,trees at the end of ,winter--,murky ,atmosphere--,surprising ,amount of organic ,life--,hornets--,the ,packages forwarded by ,mr4 ,moffat--,makololo ,suspicions and ,reply to the ,matebele who brought them--,convey the ,goods to an ,island and build a ,hut over them--,ascertain that ,sir ,r4 ,murchison had recognized the true ,form of ,african ,continent--,arrival at ,linyanti--,a grand ,picho--,shrewd ,inquiry-- ,sekeletu in his ,uniform--,a ,trading-party sent to ,loanda with ,ivory-- ,mr4 ,gabriel's ,kindness to them--,difficulties in ,trading--,two ,makololo ,forays during our ,absence--,report of the ,country to the ,n4,e4--,death of influential ,men--,the ,makololo desire to be nearer the ,market --,opinions upon a ,change of ,residence--,climate of ,barotse ,valley-- ,diseases--,author's ,fevers not a fair ,criterion in the ,matter--,the ,interior an inviting ,field for the ,philanthropist--,consultations about a ,path to the ,east ,coast--,decide on descending ,north ,bank of ,zambesi-- ,wait for the ,rainy ,season--,native way of spending ,time during the period of greatest ,heat--,favorable ,opening for ,missionary ,enterprise--,ben ,habib wishes to marry--,a ,maiden's ,choice--,sekeletu's ,hospitality-- ,sulphureted ,hydrogen and ,malaria--,conversations with ,makololo--,their moral ,character and ,conduct--,sekeletu wishes to purchase a ,sugar-mill1 etc4--,the ,donkeys--,influence among the ,natives--,food fit for a ,chief--,parting ,words of ,mamire--,motibe's ,excuses4 ,on the #cast of ,july we parted with our kind ,libonta friends4 ,we planted some of our palm-tree seeds in different villages of this valley4 ,they began to sprout even while we were there1 but1 unfortunately1 they were always destroyed by the mice which swarm in every hut4 ,at ,chitlane's village we collected the young of a colony of the linkololo 7',anastomus lamalligerus'71 a black1 long-legged bird1 somewhat larger than a crow1 which lives on shellfish 7',ampullaria'71 and breeds in society at certain localities among the reeds4 ,these places are well known1 as they continue there from year to year1 and belong to the chiefs1 who at particular times of the year gather most of the young4 ,the produce of this harvest1 as they call it1 which was presented to me1 was a hundred and seventy-five unfledged birds4 ,they had been rather late in collecting them1 in consequence of waiting for the arrival of ,mpololo1 who acts the part of chief1 but gave them to me1 knowing that this would be pleasing to him1 otherwise this colony would have yielded double the amount4 ,the old ones appear along the ,leeambye in vast flocks1 and look lean and scraggy4 ,the young are very fat1 and1 when roasted1 are esteemed one of the dainties of the ,barotse valley4 ,in presents of this kind1 as well as of oxen1 it is a sort of feast of joy1 the person to whom they are presented having the honor of distributing the materials of the feast4 ,we generally slaughtered every ox at the village where it was presented1 and then our friends and we rejoiced together4 ,the village of ,chitlane is situated1 like all others in the ,barotse valley1 on an eminence1 over which floods do not rise2 but this last year the water approached nearer to an entire submergence of the whole valley than has been known in the memory of man4 ,great numbers of people were now suffering from sickness1 which always prevails when the waters are drying up1 and ,i found much demand for the medicines ,i had brought from ,loanda4 ,the great variation of the temperature each day must have a trying effect upon the health4 ,at this village there is a real ,indian banian-tree1 which has spread itself over a considerable space by means of roots from its branches2 it has been termed1 in consequence1 the tree with legs 7more oa maotu74 ,it is curious that trees of this family are looked upon with veneration1 and all the way from the ,barotse to ,loanda are thought to be preservatives from evil4 ,on reaching ,naliele on the #ast of ,august we found ,mpololo in great affliction on account of the death of his daughter and her child4 ,she had been lately confined2 and her father naturally remembered her when an ox was slaughtered1 or when the tribute of other food1 which he receives in lieu of ,sekeletu1 came in his way1 and sent frequent presents to her4 ,this moved the envy of one of the ,makololo who hated ,mpololo1 and1 wishing to vex him1 he entered the daughter's hut by night1 and strangled both her and her child4 ,he then tried to make fire in the hut and burn it1 so that the murder might not be known2 but the squeaking noise of rubbing the sticks awakened a servant1 and the murderer was detected4 ,both he and his wife were thrown into the river2 the latter having known of her husband's intentions1 and not revealing them4 ,she declared she had dissuaded him from the crime1 and1 had any one interposed a word1 she might have been spared4 ,mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply us with other canoes1 and we left ,shinte's with him4 ,the ,mambowe were well received1 and departed with friendly messages to their chief ,masiko4 ,my men were exceedingly delighted with the cordial reception we met with every where2 but a source of annoyance was found where it was not expected4 ,many of their wives had married other men during our two years' absence4 ,mashauana's wife1 who had borne him two children1 was among the number4 ,he wished to appear not to feel it much1 saying1 ,why1 wives are as plentiful as grass1 and ,i can get another3 she may go2 but he would add1 ,if ,i had that fellow1 ,i would open his ears for him4 ,as most of them had more wives than one1 ,i tried to console them by saying that they had still more than ,i had1 and that they had enough yet2 but they felt the reflection to be galling1 that while they were toiling1 another had been devouring their corn4 ,some of their wives came with very young infants in their arms4 ,this excited no discontent2 and for some ,i had to speak to the chief to order the men1 who had married the only wives some of my companions ever had1 to restore them4 ,,sunday1 ,,august #e,,th4 ,a large audience listened most attentively to my morning address4 ,surely some will remember the ideas conveyed1 and pray to our merciful ,father1 who would never have thought of ,him but for this visit4 ,the invariably kind and respectful treatment ,i have received from these1 and many other heathen tribes in this central country1 together with the attentive observations of many years1 have led me to the belief that1 if one exerts himself for their good1 he will never be ill treated4 ,there may be opposition to his doctrine1 but none to the man himself4 ,while still at ,naliele1 a party which had been sent after me by ,masiko arrived4 ,he was much disappointed because ,i had not visited him4 ,they brought an elephant's tusk1 two calabashes of honey1 two baskets of maize1 and one of ground-nuts1 as a present4 ,masiko wished to say that he had followed the injunction which ,i had given as the will of ,god1 and lived in peace until his brother ,limboa came1 captured his women as they went to their gardens1 and then appeared before his stockade4 ,masiko offered to lead his men out2 but they objected1 saying1 ,let us servants be killed1 you must not be slain4 ,those who said this were young ,barotse who had been drilled to fighting by ,sebituane1 and used shields of ox-hide4 ,they beat off the party of ,limboa1 ten being wounded1 and ten slain in the engagement4 ,limboa subsequently sent three slaves as a self-imposed fine to ,masiko for attacking him4 ,i succeeded in getting the ,makololo to treat the messengers of ,masiko well1 though1 as they regarded them as rebels1 it was somewhat against the grain at first to speak civilly to them4 ,mpololo1 attempting to justify an opposite line of conduct1 told me how they had fled from ,sebituane1 even though he had given them numbers of cattle after their subjection by his arms1 and was rather surprised to find that ,i was disposed to think more highly of them for having asserted their independence1 even at the loss of milk4 ,for this food1 all who have been accustomed to it from infancy in ,africa have an excessive longing4 ,i pointed out how they might be mutually beneficial to each other by the exchange of canoes and cattle4 ,there are some very old ,barotse living here who were the companions of the old chief ,santuru4 ,these men1 protected by their age1 were very free in their comments on the upstart ,makololo4 ,one of them1 for instance1 interrupted my conversation one day with some ,makololo gentlemen with the advice not to believe them1 for they were only a set of thieves2 and it was taken in quite a good-natured way4 ,it is remarkable that none of the ancients here had any tradition of an earthquake having occurred in this region4 ,their quick perception of events recognizable by the senses1 and retentiveness of memory1 render it probable that no perceptible movement of the earth has taken place between #g ,deg4 and #bg ,deg4 ,s4 in the centre of the continent during the last two centuries at least4 ,there is no appearance of recent fracture or disturbance of rocks to be seen in the central country1 except the falls of ,gonye2 nor is there any evidence or tradition of hurricanes4 ,i left ,naliele on the #acth of ,august1 and1 when proceeding along the shore at midday1 a hippopotamus struck the canoe with her forehead1 lifting one half of it quite out of the water1 so as nearly to overturn it4 ,the force of the butt she gave tilted ,mashauana out into the river2 the rest of us sprang to the shore1 which was only about ten yards off4 ,glancing back1 ,i saw her come to the surface a short way off1 and look to the canoe1 as if to see if she had done much mischief4 ,it was a female1 whose young one had been speared the day before4 ,no damage was done except wetting person and goods4 ,this is so unusual an occurrence1 when the precaution is taken to coast along the shore1 that my men exclaimed1 ,is the beast mad8 ,there were eight of us in the canoe at the time1 and the shake it received shows the immense power of this animal in the water4 ,on reaching ,gonye1 ,mokwala1 the head man1 having presented me with a tusk1 ,i gave it to ,pitsane1 as he was eagerly collecting ivory for the ,loanda market4 ,the rocks of ,gonye are reddish gray sandstone1 nearly horizontal1 and perforated by madrepores1 the holes showing the course of the insect in different directions4 ,the rock itself has been impregnated with iron1 and that hardened1 forms a glaze on the surface--an appearance common to many of the rocks of this country4 ,,august #bb;,d4 ,this is the end of winter4 ,the trees which line the banks begin to bud and blossom1 and there is some show of the influence of the new sap1 which will soon end in buds that push off the old foliage by assuming a very bright orange color4 ,this orange is so bright that ,i mistook it for masses of yellow blossom4 ,there is every variety of shade in the leaves--yellow1 purple1 copper1 liver-color1 and even inky black4 ,having got the loan of other canoes from ,mpololo1 and three oxen as provision for the way1 which made the number we had been presented with in the ,barotse valley amount to thirteen1 we proceeded down the river toward ,sesheke1 and were as much struck as formerly with the noble river4 ,the whole scenery is lovely1 though the atmosphere is murky in consequence of the continuance of the smoky tinge of winter4 ,this peculiar tinge of the atmosphere was observed every winter at ,kolobeng1 but it was not so observable in ,londa as in the south1 though ,i had always considered that it was owing to the extensive burnings of the grass1 in which hundreds of miles of pasturage are annually consumed4 ,as the quantity burned in the north is very much greater than in the south1 and the smoky tinge of winter was not observed1 some other explanation than these burnings must be sought for4 ,i have sometimes imagined that the lowering of the temperature in the winter rendered the vapor in the upper current of air visible1 and imparted this hazy appearance4 ,the amount of organic life is surprising4 ,at the time the river begins to rise1 the ',ibis religiosa' comes down in flocks of fifties1 with prodigious numbers of other water-fowl4 ,some of the sand-banks appear whitened during the day with flocks of pelicans--,i once counted three hundred2 others are brown with ducks 7',anas histrionica'7--,i got fourteen of these by one shot 7',querquedula ,hottentota'1 ,smith71 and other kinds4 ,great numbers of gulls 7',procellaria turtur'1 ,smith71 and several others1 float over the surface4 ,the vast quantity of small birds1 which feed on insects1 show that the river teems also with specimens of minute organic life4 ,in walking among bushes on the banks we are occasionally stung by a hornet1 which makes its nest in form like that of our own wasp1 and hangs it on the branches of trees4 ,the breeding storgh99 is so strong in this insect that it pursues any one twenty or thirty yards who happens to brush too closely past its nest4 ,the sting1 which it tries to inflict near the eye1 is more like a discharge of electricity from a powerful machine1 or a violent blow1 than aught else4 ,it produces momentary insensibility1 and is followed by the most pungent pain4 ,yet this insect is quite timid when away from its nest4 ,it is named ,murotuani by the ,bechuanas4 99 7,greek7 sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta4 ,we have tsetse between ,nameta and ,sekhosi4 ,an insect of prey1 about an inch in length1 long-legged and gaunt-looking1 may be observed flying about and lighting upon the bare ground4 ,it is a tiger in its way1 for it springs upon tsetse and other flies1 and1 sucking out their blood1 throws the bodies aside4 ,long before reaching ,sesheke we had been informed that a party of ,matebele1 the people of ,mosilikatse1 had brought some packages of goods for me to the south bank of the river1 near the ,victoria ,falls1 and1 though they declared that they had been sent by ,mr4 ,moffat1 the ,makololo had refused to credit the statement of their sworn enemies4 ,they imagined that the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick1 whereby to place witchcraft-medicine into the hands of the ,makololo4 ,when the ,matebele on the south bank called to the ,makololo on the north to come over in canoes and receive the goods sent by ,moffat to ,nake1 the ,makololo replied1 ,go along with you1 we know better than that2 how could he tell ,moffat to send his things here1 he having gone away to the north8 ,the ,matebele answered1 ,here are the goods2 we place them now before you1 and if you leave them to perish the guilt will be yours4 ,when they had departed the ,makololo thought better of it1 and1 after much divination1 went over with fear and trembling1 and carried the packages carefully to an island in the middle of the stream2 then1 building a hut over them to protect them from the weather1 they left them2 and there ,i found they had remained from ,september1 #ahed1 till ,september1 #ahee1 in perfect safety4 ,here1 as ,i had often experienced before1 ,i found the news was very old1 and had lost much of its interest by keeping1 but there were some good eatables from ,mrs4 ,moffat4 ,among other things1 ,i discovered that my friend1 ,sir ,roderick ,murchison1 while in his study in ,london1 had arrived at the same conclusion respecting the form of the ,african continent as ,i had lately come to on the spot 7see note p4 #eab footnote to ,chapter #bd ,paragraph #g72 and that1 from the attentive study of the geological map of ,mr4 ,bain and other materials1 some of which were furnished by the discoveries of ,mr4 ,oswell and myself1 he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar configuration as an hypothesis in his discourse before the ,geographical ,society in #aheb1 but had even the assurance to send me out a copy for my information6 ,there was not much use in nursing my chagrin at being thus fairly cut out by the man who had foretold the existence of the ,australian gold before its discovery1 for here it was in black and white4 ,in his easy-chair he had forestalled me by three years1 though ,i had been working hard through jungle1 marsh1 and fever1 and1 since the light dawned on my mind at ,dilolo1 had been cherishing the pleasing delusion that ,i should be the first to suggest the idea that the interior of ,africa was a watery plateau of less elevation than flanking hilly ranges4 ,having waited a few days at ,sesheke till the horses which we had left at ,linyanti should arrive1 we proceeded to that town1 and found the wagon1 and every thing we had left in ,november1 #ahec1 perfectly safe4 ,a grand meeting of all the people was called to receive our report1 and the articles which had been sent by the governor and merchants of ,loanda4 ,i explained that none of these were my property1 but that they were sent to show the friendly feelings of the white men1 and their eagerness to enter into commercial relations with the ,makololo4 ,i then requested my companions to give a true account of what they had seen4 ,the wonderful things lost nothing in the telling1 the climax always being that they had finished the whole world1 and had turned only when there was no more land4 ,one glib old gentleman asked1 ,then you reached ,ma ,robert 7,mrs4 ,l478 ,they were obliged to confess that she lived a little beyond the world4 ,the presents were received with expressions of great satisfaction and delight2 and on ,sunday1 when ,sekeletu made his appearance at church in his uniform1 it attracted more attention than the sermon2 and the kind expressions they made use of respecting myself were so very flattering that ,i felt inclined to shut my eyes4 ,their private opinion must have tallied with their public report1 for ,i very soon received offers from volunteers to accompany me to the east coast4 ,they said they wished to be able to return and relate strange things like my recent companions2 and ,sekeletu immediately made arrangements with the ,arab ,ben ,habib to conduct a fresh party with a load of ivory to ,loanda4 ,these1 he said1 must go with him and learn to trade3 they were not to have any thing to do in the disposal of the ivory1 but simply look and learn4 ,my companions were to remain and rest themselves1 and then return to ,loanda when the others had come home4 ,sekeletu consulted me as to sending presents back to the governor and merchants of ,loanda1 but1 not possessing much confidence in this ,arab1 ,i advised him to send a present by ,pitsane1 as he knew who ought to receive it4 ,since my arrival in ,england1 information has been received from ,mr4 ,gabriel that this party had arrived on the west coast1 but that the ivory had been disposed of to some ,portuguese merchants in the interior1 and the men had been obliged to carry it down to ,loanda4 ,they had not been introduced to ,mr4 ,gabriel1 but that gentleman1 having learned that they were in the city1 went to them1 and pronounced the names ,pitsane1 ,mashauana1 when all started up and crowded round him4 ,when ,mr4 ,g4 obtained an interpreter1 he learned that they had been ordered by ,sekeletu to be sure and go to my brother1 as he termed him4 ,mr4 ,g4 behaved in the same liberal manner as he had done to my companions1 and they departed for their distant home after bidding him a formal and affectionate adieu4 ,it was to be expected that they would be imposed upon in their first attempt at trading1 but ,i believe that this could not be so easily repeated4 ,it is1 however1 unfortunate that in dealing with the natives in the interior there is no attempt made at the establishment of fair prices4 ,the trader shows a quantity of goods1 the native asks for more1 and more is given4 ,the native1 being ignorant of the value of the goods or of his ivory1 tries what another demand will bring4 ,after some haggling1 an addition is made1 and that bargain is concluded to the satisfaction of both parties4 ,another trader comes1 and perhaps offers more than the first2 the customary demand for an addition is made1 and he yields4 ,the natives by this time are beginning to believe that the more they ask the more they will get3 they continue to urge1 the trader bursts into a rage1 and the trade is stopped1 to be renewed next day by a higher offer4 ,the natives naturally conclude that they were right the day before1 and a most disagreeable commercial intercourse is established4 ,a great amount of time is spent in concluding these bargains4 ,in other parts1 it is quite common to see the natives going from one trader to another till they have finished the whole village2 and some give presents of brandy to tempt their custom4 ,much of this unpleasant state of feeling between natives and ,europeans results from the commencements made by those who were ignorant of the language1 and from the want of education being given at the same time4 ,during the time of our absence at ,loanda1 the ,makololo had made two forays1 and captured large herds of cattle4 ,one1 to the lake1 was in order to punish ,lechulatebe for the insolence he had manifested after procuring some fire-arms2 and the other to ,sebola ,makwaia1 a chief living far to the ,n4,e4 ,this was most unjustifiable1 and had been condemned by all the influential ,makololo4 ,ben ,habib1 however1 had1 in coming from ,zanzibar1 visited ,sebola ,makwaia1 and found that the chief town was governed by an old woman of that name4 ,she received him kindly1 and gave him a large quantity of magnificent ivory1 sufficient to set him up as a trader1 at a very small cost2 but1 his party having discharged their guns1 ,ben ,habib observed that the female chief and her people were extremely alarmed1 and would have fled and left their cattle in a panic1 had he not calmed their fears4 ,ben ,habib informed the uncle of ,sekeletu that he could easily guide him thither1 and he might get a large number of cattle without any difficulty4 ,this uncle advised ,sekeletu to go2 and1 as the only greatness he knew was imitation of his father's deeds1 he went1 but was not so successful as was anticipated4 ,sebola ,makwaia had fled on hearing of the approach of the ,makololo2 and1 as the country is marshy and intersected in every direction by rivers1 they could not easily pursue her4 ,they captured canoes1 and1 pursuing up different streams1 came to a small lake called ,shuia4 ,having entered the ,loangwa1 flowing to the eastward1 they found it advisable to return1 as the natives in those parts became more warlike the further they went in that direction4 ,before turning1 the ,arab pointed out an elevated ridge in the distance1 and said to the ,makololo1 ,when we see that1 we always know that we are only ten or fifteen days from the sea4 ,on seeing him afterward1 he informed me that on the same ridge1 but much further to the north1 the ,banyassa lived1 and that the rivers flowed from it toward the ,s4,w4 ,he also confirmed the other ,arab's account that the ,loapula1 which he had crossed at the town of ,cazembe1 flowed in the same direction1 and into the ,leeambye4 ,several of the influential ,makololo who had engaged in these marauding expeditions had died before our arrival1 and ,nokwane had succumbed to his strange disease4 ,ramosantane had perished through vomiting blood from over-fatigue in the march1 and ,lerimo was affected by a leprosy peculiar to the ,barotse valley4 ,in accordance with the advice of my ,libonta friends1 ,i did not fail to reprove my child ,sekeletu for his marauding4 ,this was not done in an angry manner1 for no good is ever achieved by fierce denunciations4 ,motibe1 his father-in-law1 said to me1 ,scold him much1 but don't let others hear you4 ,the ,makololo expressed great satisfaction with the route we had opened up to the west1 and soon after our arrival a picho was called1 in order to discuss the question of removal to the ,barotse valley1 so that they might be nearer the market4 ,some of the older men objected to abandoning the line of defense afforded by the rivers ,chobe and ,zambesi against their southern enemies the ,matebele4 ,the ,makololo generally have an aversion to the ,barotse valley1 on account of the fevers which are annually engendered in it as the waters dry up4 ,they prefer it only as a cattle station2 for1 though the herds are frequently thinned by an epidemic disease 7peripneumonia71 they breed so fast that the losses are soon made good4 ,wherever else the ,makololo go1 they always leave a portion of their stock in the charge of herdsmen in that prolific valley4 ,some of the younger men objected to removal1 because the rankness of the grass at the ,barotse did not allow of their running fast1 and because there it never becomes cool4 ,sekeletu at last stood up1 and1 addressing me1 said1 ,i am perfectly satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of the path which you have opened1 and think that we ought to go to the ,barotse1 in order to make the way from us to ,loanda shorter2 but with whom am ,i to live there8 ,if you were coming with us1 ,i would remove to-morrow2 but now you are going to the white man's country to bring ,ma ,robert1 and when you return you will find me near to the spot on which you wish to dwell4 ,i had then no idea that any healthy spot existed in the country1 and thought only of a convenient central situation1 adapted for intercourse with the adjacent tribes and with the coast1 such as that near to the confluence of the ,leeba and ,leeambye4 ,the fever is certainly a drawback to this otherwise important missionary field4 ,the great humidity produced by heavy rains and inundations1 the exuberant vegetation caused by fervid heat in rich moist soil1 and the prodigious amount of decaying vegetable matter annually exposed after the inundations to the rays of a torrid sun1 with a flat surface often covered by forest through which the winds can not pass1 all combine to render the climate far from salubrious for any portion of the human family4 ,but the fever1 thus caused and rendered virulent1 is almost the only disease prevalent in it4 ,there is no consumption or scrofula1 and but little insanity4 ,smallpox and measles visited the country some thirty years ago and cut off many1 but they have since made no return1 although the former has been almost constantly in one part or another of the coast4 ,singularly enough1 the people used inoculation for this disease2 and in one village1 where they seem to have chosen a malignant case from which to inoculate the rest1 nearly the whole village was cut off4 ,i have seen but one case of hydrocephalus1 a few of epilepsy1 none of cholera or cancer1 and many diseases common in ,england are here quite unknown4 ,it is true that ,i suffered severely from fever1 but my experience can not be taken as a fair criterion in the matter4 ,compelled to sleep on the damp ground month after month1 exposed to drenching showers1 and getting the lower extremities wetted two or three times every day1 living on native food 7with the exception of sugarless coffee1 during the journey to the north and the latter half of the return journey71 and that food the manioc roots and meal1 which contain so much uncombined starch that the eyes become affected 7as in the case of animals fed for experiment on pure gluten or starch71 and being exposed during many hours each day in comparative inaction to the direct rays of the sun1 the thermometer standing above #if ,deg4 in the shade--these constitute a more pitiful hygiene than any missionaries who may follow will ever have to endure4 ,i do not mention these privations as if ,i considered them to be sacrifices1 for ,i think that the word ought never to be applied to any thing we can do for ,him who came down from heaven and died for us2 but ,i suppose it is necessary to notice them1 in order that no unfavorable opinion may be formed from my experience as to what that of others might be1 if less exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather and change of diet4 ,i believe that the interior of this country presents a much more inviting field for the philanthropist than does the west coast1 where missionaries of the ,church ,missionary1 ,united ,presbyterian1 and other societies have long labored with most astonishing devotedness and never-flagging zeal4 ,there the fevers are much more virulent and more speedily fatal than here1 for from #h ,deg4 south they almost invariably take the intermittent or least fatal type2 and their effect being to enlarge the spleen1 a complaint which is best treated by change of climate1 we have the remedy at hand by passing the #bjth parallel on our way south4 ,but ,i am not to be understood as intimating that any of the numerous tribes are anxious for instruction3 they are not the inquiring spirits we read of in other countries2 they do not desire the ,gospel1 because they know nothing about either it or its benefits2 but there is no impediment in the way of instruction4 ,every head man would be proud of a ,european visitor or resident in his territory1 and there is perfect security for life and property all over the interior country4 ,the great barriers which have kept ,africa shut are the unhealthiness of the coast1 and the exclusive1 illiberal disposition of the border tribes4 ,it has not within the historic period been cut into by deep arms of the sea1 and only a small fringe of its population have come into contact with the rest of mankind4 ,race has much to do in the present circumstances of nations2 yet it is probable that the unhealthy coast-climate has reacted on the people1 and aided both in perpetuating their own degradation and preventing those more inland from having intercourse with the rest of the world4 ,it is to be hoped that these obstacles will be overcome by the more rapid means of locomotion possessed in the present age1 if a good highway can become available from the coast into the interior4 ,having found it impracticable to open up a carriage-path to the west1 it became a question as to which part of the east coast we should direct our steps4 ,the ,arabs had come from ,zanzibar through a peaceful country4 ,they assured me that the powerful chiefs beyond the ,cazembe on the ,n4,e41 viz41 ,moatutu1 ,moaroro1 and ,mogogo1 chiefs of the tribes ,batutu1 ,baroro1 and ,bagogo1 would have no objection to my passing through their country4 ,they described the population there as located in small villages like the ,balonda1 and that no difficulty is experienced in traveling among them4 ,they mentioned also that1 at a distance of ten days beyond ,cazembe1 their path winds round the end of ,lake ,tanganyenka4 ,but when they reach this lake1 a little to the northwest of its southern extremity1 they find no difficulty in obtaining canoes to carry them over4 ,they sleep on islands1 for it is said to require three days in crossing1 and may thus be forty or fifty miles broad4 ,here they punt the canoes the whole way1 showing that it is shallow4 ,there are many small streams in the path1 and three large rivers4 ,this1 then1 appeared to me to be the safest2 but my present object being a path admitting of water rather than land carriage1 this route did not promise so much as that by way of the ,zambesi or ,leeambye4 ,the ,makololo knew all the country eastward as far as the ,kafue1 from having lived in former times near the confluence of that river with the ,zambesi1 and they all advised this path in preference to that by the way of ,zanzibar4 ,the only difficulty that they assured me of was that in the falls of ,victoria4 ,some recommended my going to ,sesheke1 and crossing over in a ,n4,e4 direction to the ,kafue1 which is only six days distant1 and descending that river to the ,zambesi4 ,others recommended me to go on the south bank of the ,zambesi until ,i had passed the falls1 then get canoes and proceed farther down the river4 ,all spoke strongly of the difficulties of traveling on the north bank1 on account of the excessively broken and rocky nature of the country near the river on that side4 ,and when ,ponuane1 who had lately headed a foray there1 proposed that ,i should carry canoes along that side till we reached the spot where the ,leeambye becomes broad and placid again1 others declared that1 from the difficulties he himself had experienced in forcing the men of his expedition to do this1 they believed that mine would be sure to desert me if ,i attempted to impose such a task upon them4 ,another objection to traveling on either bank of the river was the prevalence of the tsetse1 which is so abundant that the inhabitants can keep no domestic animals except goats4 ,while pondering over these different paths1 ,i could not help regretting my being alone4 ,if ,i had enjoyed the company of my former companion1 ,mr4 ,oswell1 one of us might have taken the ,zambesi1 and the other gone by way of ,zanzibar4 ,the latter route was decidedly the easiest1 because all the inland tribes were friendly1 while the tribes in the direction of the ,zambesi were inimical1 and ,i should now be obliged to lead a party1 which the ,batoka of that country view as hostile invaders1 through an enemy's land2 but1 as the prospect of permanent water-conveyance was good1 ,i decided on going down the ,zambesi1 and keeping on the north bank1 because1 in the map given by ,bowditch1 ,tete1 the farthest inland station of the ,portuguese1 is erroneously placed on that side4 ,being near the end of ,september1 the rains were expected daily2 the clouds were collecting1 and the wind blew strongly from the east1 but it was excessively hot4 ,all the ,makololo urged me strongly to remain till the ground should be cooled by the rains2 and as it was probable that ,i should get fever if ,i commenced my journey now1 ,i resolved to wait4 ,the parts of the country about #ag ,deg4 and #ah ,deg4 suffer from drought and become dusty4 ,it is but the commencement of the humid region to the north1 and partakes occasionally of the character of both the wet and dry regions4 ,some idea may be formed of the heat in ,october by the fact that the thermometer 7protected7 stood1 in the shade of my wagon1 at #ajj ,deg4 through the day4 ,it rose to #aaj ,deg4 if unprotected from the wind2 at dark it showed #hi ,deg42 at #aj o'clock1 #hj ,deg42 and then gradually sunk till sunrise1 when it was #gj ,deg4 ,that is usually the period of greatest cold in each twenty-four hours in this region4 ,the natives1 during the period of greatest heat1 keep in their huts1 which are always pleasantly cool by day1 but close and suffocating by night4 ,those who are able to afford it sit guzzling beer or boyaloa4 ,the perspiration produced by copious draughts seems to give enjoyment1 the evaporation causing a feeling of coolness4 ,the attendants of the chief1 on these occasions1 keep up a continuous roar of bantering1 raillery1 laughing1 and swearing4 ,the dance is kept up in the moonlight till past midnight4 ,the women stand clapping their hands continuously1 and the old men sit admiringly1 and say1 ,it is really very fine4 ,as crowds came to see me1 ,i employed much of my time in conversation1 that being a good mode of conveying instruction4 ,in the public meetings for worship the people listened very attentively1 and behaved with more decorum than formerly4 ,they really form a very inviting field for a missionary4 ,surely the oft-told tale of the goodness and love of our heavenly ,father1 in giving up his own ,son to death for us sinners1 will1 by the power of his ,holy ,spirit1 beget love in some of these heathen hearts4 #a,,st ,,october4 ,before ,ben ,habib started for ,loanda1 he asked the daughter of ,sebituane in marriage4 ,this is the plan the ,arabs adopt for gaining influence in a tribe1 and they have been known to proceed thus cautiously to form connections1 and gradually gain so much influence as to draw all the tribe over to their religion4 ,i never heard of any persecution1 although the ,arabs with whom ,i came in contact seemed much attached to their religion4 ,this daughter of ,sebituane1 named ,manchunyane1 was about twelve years of age4 ,as ,i was the bosom-friend of her father1 ,i was supposed to have a voice in her disposal1 and1 on being asked1 objected to her being taken away1 we knew not whither1 and where we might never see her again4 ,as her name implies1 she was only a little black1 and1 besides being as fair as any of the ,arabs1 had quite the ,arab features2 but ,i have no doubt that ,ben ,habib will renew his suit more successfully on some other occasion4 ,in these cases of marriage1 the consent of the young women is seldom asked4 ,a maid-servant of ,sekeletu1 however1 pronounced by the ,makololo to be good-looking1 was at this time sought in marriage by five young men4 ,sekeletu1 happening to be at my wagon when one of these preferred his suit1 very coolly ordered all five to stand in a row before the young woman1 that she might make her choice4 ,two refused to stand1 apparently1 because they could not brook the idea of a repulse1 although willing enough to take her if ,sekeletu had acceded to their petition without reference to her will4 ,three dandified fellows stood forth1 and she unhesitatingly decided on taking one who was really the best looking4 ,it was amusing to see the mortification exhibited on the black faces of the unsuccessful candidates1 while the spectators greeted them with a hearty laugh4 ,during the whole of my stay with the ,makololo1 ,sekeletu supplied my wants abundantly1 appointing some cows to furnish me with milk1 and1 when he went out to hunt1 sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be given4 ,that the food was not given in a niggardly spirit may be inferred from the fact that1 when ,i proposed to depart on the #bjth of ,october1 he protested against my going off in such a hot sun4 ,only wait1 said he1 for the first shower1 and then ,i will let you go4 ,this was reasonable1 for the thermometer1 placed upon a deal box in the sun1 rose to #ach ,deg4 ,it stood at #ajh ,deg4 in the shade by day1 and #if ,deg4 at sunset4 ,if my experiments were correct1 the blood of a ,european is of a higher temperature than that of an ,african4 ,the bulb1 held under my tongue1 stood at #ajj ,deg42 under that of the natives1 at #ih ,deg4 ,there was much sickness in the town1 and no wonder1 for part of the water left by the inundation still formed a large pond in the centre4 ,even the plains between ,linyanti and ,sesheke had not yet been freed from the waters of the inundation4 ,they had risen higher than usual1 and for a long time canoes passed from the one place to the other1 a distance of upward of #abj miles1 in nearly a straight line4 ,we found many patches of stagnant water1 which1 when disturbed by our passing through them1 evolved strong effluvia of sulphureted hydrogen4 ,at other times these spots exhibit an efflorescence of the nitrate of soda2 they also contain abundance of lime1 probably from decaying vegetable matter1 and from these may have emanated the malaria which caused the present sickness4 ,i have often remarked this effluvium in sickly spots1 and can not help believing but that it has some connection with fever1 though ,i am quite aware of ,dr4 ,mac,williams's unsuccessful efforts to discover sulphureted hydrogen1 by the most delicate tests1 in the ,niger expedition4 ,i had plenty of employment1 for1 besides attending to the severer cases1 ,i had perpetual calls on my attention4 ,the town contained at least #gjjj inhabitants1 and every one thought that he might come1 and at least look at me4 ,in talking with some of the more intelligent in the evenings1 the conversation having turned from inquiries respecting eclipses of the sun and moon to that other world where ,jesus reigns1 they let me know that my attempts to enlighten them had not been without some small effect4 ,many of the children1 said they1 talk about the strange things you bring to their ears1 but the old men show a little opposition by saying1 ',do we know what he is talking about8' ,ntlaria and others complain of treacherous memories1 and say1 ,when we hear words about other things1 we hold them fast2 but when we hear you tell much more wonderful things than any we have ever heard before1 we don't know how it is1 they run away from our hearts4 ,these are the more intelligent of my ,makololo friends4 ,on the majority the teaching produces no appreciable effect2 they assent to the truth with the most perplexing indifference1 adding1 ,but we don't know1 or1 ,we do not understand4 ,my medical intercourse with them enabled me to ascertain their moral status better than a mere religious teacher could do4 ,they do not attempt to hide the evil1 as men often do1 from their spiritual instructors2 but ,i have found it difficult to come to a conclusion on their character4 ,they sometimes perform actions remarkably good1 and sometimes as strangely the opposite4 ,i have been unable to ascertain the motive for the good1 or account for the callousness of conscience with which they perpetrate the bad4 ,after long observation1 ,i came to the conclusion that they are just such a strange mixture of good and evil as men are every where else4 ,there is not among them an approach to that constant stream of benevolence flowing from the rich to the poor which we have in ,england1 nor yet the unostentatious attentions which we have among our own poor to each other4 ,yet there are frequent instances of genuine kindness and liberality1 as well as actions of an opposite character4 ,the rich show kindness to the poor in expectation of services1 and a poor person who has no relatives will seldom be supplied even with water in illness1 and1 when dead1 will be dragged out to be devoured by the hyaenas instead of being buried4 ,relatives alone will condescend to touch a dead body4 ,it would be easy to enumerate instances of inhumanity which ,i have witnessed4 ,an interesting-looking girl came to my wagon one day in a state of nudity1 and almost a skeleton4 ,she was a captive from another tribe1 and had been neglected by the man who claimed her4 ,having supplied her wants1 ,i made inquiry for him1 and found that he had been unsuccessful in raising a crop of corn1 and had no food to give her4 ,i volunteered to take her2 but he said he would allow me to feed her and make her fat1 and then take her away4 ,i protested against his heartlessness2 and1 as he said he could not part with his child1 ,i was precluded from attending to her wants4 ,in a day or two she was lost sight of4 ,she had gone out a little way from the town1 and1 being too weak to return1 had been cruelly left to perish4 ,another day ,i saw a poor boy going to the water to drink1 apparently in a starving condition4 ,this case ,i brought before the chief in council1 and found that his emaciation was ascribed to disease and want combined4 ,he was not one of the ,makololo1 but a member of a subdued tribe4 ,i showed them that any one professing to claim a child1 and refusing proper nutriment1 would be guilty of his death4 ,sekeletu decided that the owner of this boy should give up his alleged right rather than destroy the child4 ,when ,i took him he was so far gone as to be in the cold stage of starvation1 but was soon brought round by a little milk given three or four times a day4 ,on leaving ,linyanti ,i handed him over to the charge of his chief1 ,sekeletu1 who feeds his servants very well4 ,on the other hand1 ,i have seen instances in which both men and women have taken up little orphans and carefully reared them as their own children4 ,by a selection of cases of either kind1 it would not be difficult to make these people appear excessively good or uncommonly bad4 ,i still possessed some of the coffee which ,i had brought from ,angola1 and some of the sugar which ,i had left in my wagon4 ,so long as the sugar lasted1 ,sekeletu favored me with his company at meals2 but the sugar soon came to a close4 ,the ,makololo1 as formerly mentioned1 were well acquainted with the sugar-cane1 as it is cultivated by the ,barotse1 but never knew that sugar could be got from it4 ,when ,i explained the process by which it was produced1 ,sekeletu asked if ,i could not buy him an apparatus for the purpose of making sugar4 ,he said that he would plant the cane largely if he only had the means of making the sugar from it4 ,i replied that ,i was unable to purchase a mill1 when he instantly rejoined1 ,why not take ivory to buy it8 ,as ,i had been living at his expense1 ,i was glad of the opportunity to show my gratitude by serving him2 and when he and his principal men understood that ,i was willing to execute a commission1 ,sekeletu gave me an order for a sugar-mill1 and for all the different varieties of clothing that he had ever seen1 especially a mohair coat1 a good rifle1 beads1 brass-wire1 etc41 etc41 and wound up by saying1 ,and any other beautiful thing you may see in your own country4 ,as to the quantity of ivory required to execute the commission1 ,i said ,i feared that a large amount would be necessary4 ,both he and his councilors replied1 ,the ivory is all your own2 if you leave any in the country it will be your own fault4 ,he was also anxious for horses4 ,the two ,i had left with him when ,i went to ,loanda were still living1 and had been of great use to him in hunting the giraffe and eland1 and he was now anxious to have a breed4 ,this1 ,i thought1 might be obtained at the ,portuguese settlements4 ,all were very much delighted with the donkeys we had brought from ,loanda4 ,as we found that they were not affected by the bite of the tsetse1 and there was a prospect of the breed being continued1 it was gratifying to see the experiment of their introduction so far successful4 ,the donkeys came as frisky as kids all the way from ,loanda until we began to descend the ,leeambye4 ,there we came upon so many interlacing branches of the river1 and were obliged to drag them through such masses of tangled aquatic plants1 that we half drowned them1 and were at last obliged to leave them somewhat exhausted at ,naliele4 ,they excited the unbounded admiration of my men by their knowledge of the different kinds of plants1 which1 as they remarked1 the animals had never before seen in their own country2 and when the donkeys indulged in their music1 they startled the inhabitants more than if they had been lions4 ,we never rode them1 nor yet the horse which had been given by the bishop1 for fear of hurting them by any work4 ,although the ,makololo were so confiding1 the reader must not imagine that they would be so to every individual who might visit them4 ,much of my influence depended upon the good name given me by the ,bakwains1 and that ,i secured only through a long course of tolerably good conduct4 ,no one ever gains much influence in this country without purity and uprightness4 ,the acts of a stranger are keenly scrutinized by both young and old1 and seldom is the judgment pronounced1 even by the heathen1 unfair or uncharitable4 ,i have heard women speaking in admiration of a white man because he was pure1 and never was guilty of any secret immorality4 ,had he been1 they would have known it1 and1 untutored heathen though they be1 would have despised him in consequence4 ,secret vice becomes known throughout the tribe2 and while one1 unacquainted with the language1 may imagine a peccadillo to be hidden1 it is as patent to all as it would be in ,london had he a placard on his back4 #bg,,th ,,october1 #ahee4 ,the first continuous rain of the season commenced during the night1 the wind being from the ,n4,e41 as it always was on like occasions at ,kolobeng4 ,the rainy season was thus begun1 and ,i made ready to go4 ,the mother of ,sekeletu prepared a bag of ground-nuts1 by frying them in cream with a little salt1 as a sort of sandwiches for my journey4 ,this is considered food fit for a chief4 ,others ground the maize from my own garden into meal1 and ,sekeletu pointed out ,sekwebu and ,kanyata as the persons who should head the party intended to form my company4 ,sekwebu had been captured by the ,matebele when a little boy1 and the tribe in which he was a captive had migrated to the country near ,tete2 he had traveled along both banks of the ,zambesi several times1 and was intimately acquainted with the dialects spoken there4 ,i found him to be a person of great prudence and sound judgment1 and his subsequent loss at the ,mauritius has been1 ever since1 a source of sincere regret4 ,he at once recommended our keeping well away from the river1 on account of the tsetse and rocky country1 assigning also as a reason for it that the ,leeambye beyond the falls turns round to the ,n4,n4,e4 ,mamire1 who had married the mother of ,sekeletu1 on coming to bid me farewell before starting1 said1 ,you are now going among people who can not be trusted because we have used them badly2 but you go with a different message from any they ever heard before1 and ,jesus will be with you and help you1 though among enemies2 and if he carries you safely1 and brings you and ,ma ,robert back again1 ,i shall say he has bestowed a great favor upon me4 ,may we obtain a path whereby we may visit and be visited by other tribes1 and by white men6 ,on telling him my fears that he was still inclined to follow the old marauding system1 which prevented intercourse1 and that he1 from his influential position1 was especially guilty in the late forays1 he acknowledged all rather too freely for my taste1 but seemed quite aware that the old system was far from right4 ,mentioning my inability to pay the men who were to accompany me1 he replied1 ,a man wishes1 of course1 to appear among his friends1 after a long absence1 with something of his own to show2 the whole of the ivory in the country is yours1 so you must take as much as you can1 and ,sekeletu will furnish men to carry it4 ,these remarks of ,mamire are quoted literally1 in order to show the state of mind of the most influential in the tribe4 ,and as ,i wish to give the reader a fair idea of the other side of the question as well1 it may be mentioned that ,motibe parried the imputation of the guilt of marauding by every possible subterfuge4 ,he would not admit that they had done wrong1 and laid the guilt of the wars in which the ,makololo had engaged on the ,boers1 the ,matebele1 and every other tribe except his own4 ,when quite a youth1 ,motibe's family had been attacked by a party of ,boers2 he hid himself in an ant-eater's hole1 but was drawn out and thrashed with a whip of hippopotamus hide4 ,when enjoined to live in peace1 he would reply1 ,teach the ,boers to lay down their arms first4 ,yet ,motibe1 on other occasions1 seemed to feel the difference between those who are ,christians indeed and those who are so only in name4 ,in all our discussions we parted good friends4 ,chapter #bf4 ,departure from ,linyanti--,a ,thunder-storm--,an ,act of genuine ,kindness-- ,fitted out a second time by the ,makololo--,sail down the ,leeambye-- ,sekote's ,kotla and human ,skulls2 his ,grave adorned with ,elephants' ,tusks--,victoria ,falls--,native ,names--,columns of ,vapor--,gigantic ,crack-- ,wear of the ,rocks--,shrines of the ,barimo--,the ,pestle of the ,gods-- ,second ,visit to the ,falls--,island ,garden--,store-house ,island-- ,native ,diviners--,a ,european ,diviner--,makololo ,foray--,marauder to be fined--,mambari--,makololo wish to stop ,mambari ,slave-trading--,part with ,sekeletu--,night ,traveling--,river ,lekone--,ancient fresh-water ,lakes--,formation of ,lake ,ngami--,native ,traditions--,drainage of the ,great ,valley--,native ,reports of the ,country to the ,north--,maps--,moyara's ,village--,savage ,customs of the ,batoka--,a ,chain of ,trading ,stations--,remedy against ,tsetse--,the ,well of ,joy--,first ,traces of ,trade with ,europeans--,knocking out the front ,teeth--,facetious ,explanation--,degradation of the ,batoka--,description of the ,traveling ,party--,cross the ,unguesi--,geological ,formation--,ruins of a large ,town-- ,productions of the ,soil similar to those in ,angola--,abundance of ,fruit4 ,on the #c;d of ,november we bade adieu to our friends at ,linyanti1 accompanied by ,sekeletu and about #bjj followers4 ,we were all fed at his expense1 and he took cattle for this purpose from every station we came to4 ,the principal men of the ,makololo1 ,lebeole1 ,ntlarie1 ,nkwatlele1 etc41 were also of the party4 ,we passed through the patch of the tsetse1 which exists between ,linyanti and ,sesheke1 by night4 ,the majority of the company went on by daylight1 in order to prepare our beds4 ,sekeletu and ,i1 with about forty young men1 waited outside the tsetse till dark4 ,we then went forward1 and about ten o'clock it became so pitchy dark that both horses and men were completely blinded4 ,the lightning spread over the sky1 forming eight or ten branches at a time1 in shape exactly like those of a tree4 ,this1 with great volumes of sheet-lightning1 enabled us at times to see the whole country4 ,the intervals between the flashes were so densely dark as to convey the idea of stone-blindness4 ,the horses trembled1 cried out1 and turned round1 as if searching for each other1 and every new flash revealed the men taking different directions1 laughing1 and stumbling against each other4 ,the thunder was of that tremendously loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries1 and which friends from ,india have assured me is louder in ,africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere4 ,then came a pelting rain1 which completed our confusion4 ,after the intense heat of the day1 we soon felt miserably cold1 and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance4 ,this had been made by some people on their march2 for this path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and from the capital4 ,my clothing having gone on1 ,i lay down on the cold ground1 expecting to spend a miserable night2 but ,sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket1 and lay uncovered himself4 ,i was much affected by this act of genuine kindness4 ,if such men must perish by the advance of civilization1 as certain races of animals do before others1 it is a pity4 ,god grant that ere this time comes they may receive that ,gospel which is a solace for the soul in death6 ,while at ,sesheke1 ,sekeletu supplied me with twelve oxen--three of which were accustomed to being ridden upon--hoes1 and beads to purchase a canoe when we should strike the ,leeambye beyond the falls4 ,he likewise presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey1 and did every thing in his power to make me comfortable for the journey4 ,i was entirely dependent on his generosity1 for the goods ,i originally brought from the ,cape were all expended by the time ,i set off from ,linyanti to the west coast4 ,i there drew #gj ,pounds of my salary1 paid my men with it1 and purchased goods for the return journey to ,linyanti4 ,these being now all expended1 the ,makololo again fitted me out1 and sent me on to the east coast4 ,i was thus dependent on their bounty1 and that of other ,africans1 for the means of going from ,linyanti to ,loanda1 and again from ,linyanti to the east coast1 and ,i feel deeply grateful to them4 ,coin would have been of no benefit1 for gold and silver are quite unknown4 ,we were here joined by ,moriantsane1 uncle of ,sekeletu and head man of ,sesheke1 and1 entering canoes on the #acth1 some sailed down the river to the confluence of the ,chobe1 while others drove the cattle along the banks1 spending one night at ,mparia1 the island at the confluence of the ,chobe1 which is composed of trap1 having crystals of quartz in it coated with a pellicle of green copper ore4 ,attempting to proceed down the river next day1 we were detained some hours by a strong east wind raising waves so large as to threaten to swamp the canoes4 ,the river here is very large and deep1 and contains two considerable islands1 which from either bank seem to be joined to the opposite shore4 ,while waiting for the wind to moderate1 my friends related the traditions of these islands1 and1 as usual1 praised the wisdom of ,sebituane in balking the ,batoka1 who formerly enticed wandering tribes to them1 and starved them1 by compelling the chiefs to remain by his side till all his cattle and people were ferried over4 ,the ,barotse believe that at certain parts of the river a tremendous monster lies hid1 and that it will catch a canoe1 and hold it fast and motionless1 in spite of the utmost exertions of the paddlers4 ,while near ,nameta they even objected to pass a spot supposed to be haunted1 and proceeded along a branch instead of the main stream4 ,they believe that some of them possess a knowledge of the proper prayer to lay the monster4 ,it is strange to find fables similar to those of the more northern nations even in the heart of ,africa4 ,can they be the vestiges of traditions of animals which no longer exist8 ,the fossil bones which lie in the calcareous tufa of this region will yet1 we hope1 reveal the ancient fauna4 ,having descended about ten miles1 we came to the island of ,nampene1 at the beginning of the rapids1 where we were obliged to leave the canoes and proceed along the banks on foot4 ,the next evening we slept opposite the island of ,chondo1 and1 then crossing the ,lekone or ,lekwine1 early the following morning were at the island of ,sekote1 called ,kalai4 ,this ,sekote was the last of the ,batoka chiefs whom ,sebituane rooted out4 ,the island is surrounded by a rocky shore and deep channels1 through which the river rushes with great force4 ,sekote1 feeling secure in his island home1 ventured to ferry over the ,matebele enemies of ,sebituane4 ,when they had retired1 ,sebituane made one of those rapid marches which he always adopted in every enterprise4 ,he came down the ,leeambye from ,naliele1 sailing by day along the banks1 and during the night in the middle of the stream1 to avoid the hippopotami4 ,when he reached ,kalai1 ,sekote took advantage of the larger canoes they employ in the rapids1 and fled during the night to the opposite bank4 ,most of his people were slain or taken captive1 and the island has ever since been under the ,makololo4 ,it is large enough to contain a considerable town4 ,on the northern side ,i found the kotla of the elder ,sekote1 garnished with numbers of human skulls mounted on poles3 a large heap of the crania of hippopotami1 the tusks untouched except by time1 stood on one side4 ,at a short distance1 under some trees1 we saw the grave of ,sekote1 ornamented with seventy large elephants' tusks planted round it with the points turned inward1 and there were thirty more placed over the resting-places of his relatives4 ,these were all decaying from the effects of the sun and weather2 but a few1 which had enjoyed the shade1 were in a pretty good condition4 ,i felt inclined to take a specimen of the tusks of the hippopotami1 as they were the largest ,i had ever seen1 but feared that the people would look upon me as a resurrectionist if ,i did1 and regard any unfavorable event which might afterward occur as a punishment for the sacrilege4 ,the ,batoka believe that ,sekote had a pot of medicine buried here1 which1 when opened1 would cause an epidemic in the country4 ,these tyrants acted much on the fears of their people4 ,as this was the point from which we intended to strike off to the northeast1 ,i resolved on the following day to visit the falls of ,victoria1 called by the natives ,mosioatunya1 or more anciently ,shongwe4 ,of these we had often heard since we came into the country2 indeed1 one of the questions asked by ,sebituane was1 ,have you smoke that sounds in your country8 ,they did not go near enough to examine them1 but1 viewing them with awe at a distance1 said1 in reference to the vapor and noise1 ,mosi oa tunya 7smoke does sound there74 ,it was previously called ,shongwe1 the meaning of which ,i could not ascertain4 ,the word for a pot resembles this1 and it may mean a seething caldron1 but ,i am not certain of it4 ,being persuaded that ,mr4 ,oswell and myself were the very first ,europeans who ever visited the ,zambesi in the centre of the country1 and that this is the connecting link between the known and unknown portions of that river1 ,i decided to use the same liberty as the ,makololo did1 and gave the only ,english name ,i have affixed to any part of the country4 ,no better proof of previous ignorance of this river could be desired than that an untraveled gentleman1 who had spent a great part of his life in the study of the geography of ,africa1 and knew every thing written on the subject from the time of ,ptolemy downward1 actually asserted in the ,athenaeum1 while ,i was coming up the ,red ,sea1 that this magnificent river1 the ,leeambye1 had no connection with the ,zambesi1 but flowed under the ,kalahari ,desert1 and became lost2 and that1 as all the old maps asserted1 the ,zambesi took its rise in the very hills to which we have now come4 ,this modest assertion smacks exactly as if a native of ,timbuctoo should declare that the ,thames and the ,pool were different rivers1 he having seen neither the one nor the other4 ,leeambye and ,zambesi mean the very same thing1 viz41 the ,,river4 ,sekeletu intended to accompany me1 but1 one canoe only having come instead of the two he had ordered1 he resigned it to me4 ,after twenty minutes' sail from ,kalai we came in sight1 for the first time1 of the columns of vapor appropriately called smoke1 rising at a distance of five or six miles1 exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in ,africa4 ,five columns now arose1 and1 bending in the direction of the wind1 they seemed placed against a low ridge covered with trees2 the tops of the columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds4 ,they were white below1 and higher up became dark1 so as to simulate smoke very closely4 ,the whole scene was extremely beautiful2 the banks and islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety of color and form4 ,at the period of our visit several trees were spangled over with blossoms4 ,trees have each their own physiognomy4 ,there1 towering over all1 stands the great burly baobab1 each of whose enormous arms would form the trunk of a large tree1 beside groups of graceful palms1 which1 with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted on the sky1 lend their beauty to the scene4 ,as a hieroglyphic they always mean far from home1 for one can never get over their foreign air in a picture or landscape4 ,the silvery mohonono1 which in the tropics is in form like the cedar of ,lebanon1 stands in pleasing contrast with the dark color of the motsouri1 whose cypress-form is dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit4 ,some trees resemble the great spreading oak1 others assume the character of our own elms and chestnuts2 but no one can imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed in ,england4 ,it had never been seen before by ,european eyes2 but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight4 ,the only want felt is that of mountains in the background4 ,the falls are bounded on three sides by ridges #cjj or #djj feet in height1 which are covered with forest1 with the red soil appearing among the trees4 ,when about half a mile from the falls1 ,i left the canoe by which we had come down thus far1 and embarked in a lighter one1 with men well acquainted with the rapids1 who1 by passing down the centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused by many jutting rocks1 brought me to an island situated in the middle of the river1 and on the edge of the lip over which the water rolls4 ,in coming hither there was danger of being swept down by the streams which rushed along on each side of the island2 but the river was now low1 and we sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the water is high4 ,but1 though we had reached the island1 and were within a few yards of the spot1 a view from which would solve the whole problem1 ,i believe that no one could perceive where the vast body of water went2 it seemed to lose itself in the earth1 the opposite lip of the fissure into which it disappeared being only #hj feet distant4 ,at least ,i did not comprehend it until1 creeping with awe to the verge1 ,i peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad ,zambesi1 and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet1 and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards4 ,the entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic rock from the right to the left bank of the ,zambesi1 and then prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or forty miles of hills4 ,if one imagines the ,thames filled with low1 tree-covered hills immediately beyond the tunnel1 extending as far as ,gravesend1 the bed of black basaltic rock instead of ,london mud1 and a fissure made therein from one end of the tunnel to the other down through the keystones of the arch1 and prolonged from the left end of the tunnel through thirty miles of hills1 the pathway being #ajj feet down from the bed of the river instead of what it is1 with the lips of the fissure from #hj to #ajj feet apart1 then fancy the ,thames leaping bodily into the gulf1 and forced there to change its direction1 and flow from the right to the left bank1 and then rush boiling and roaring through the hills1 he may have some idea of what takes place at this1 the most wonderful sight ,i had witnessed in ,africa4 ,in looking down into the fissure on the right of the island1 one sees nothing but a dense white cloud1 which1 at the time we visited the spot1 had two bright rainbows on it4 7,the sun was on the meridian1 and the declination about equal to the latitude of the place47 ,from this cloud rushed up a great jet of vapor exactly like steam1 and it mounted #bjj or #cjj feet high2 there condensing1 it changed its hue to that of dark smoke1 and came back in a constant shower1 which soon wetted us to the skin4 ,this shower falls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure1 and a few yards back from the lip there stands a straight hedge of evergreen trees1 whose leaves are always wet4 ,from their roots a number of little rills run back into the gulf1 but1 as they flow down the steep wall there1 the column of vapor1 in its ascent1 licks them up clean off the rock1 and away they mount again4 ,they are constantly running down1 but never reach the bottom4 ,on the left of the island we see the water at the bottom1 a white rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of the fissure1 which branches off near the left bank of the river4 ,a piece of the rock has fallen off a spot on the left of the island1 and juts out from the water below1 and from it ,i judged the distance which the water falls to be about #ajj feet4 ,the walls of this gigantic crack are perpendicular1 and composed of one homogeneous mass of rock4 ,the edge of that side over which the water falls is worn off two or three feet1 and pieces have fallen away1 so as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance4 ,that over which the water does not fall is quite straight1 except at the left corner1 where a rent appears1 and a piece seems inclined to fall off4 ,upon the whole1 it is nearly in the state in which it was left at the period of its formation4 ,the rock is dark brown in color1 except about ten feet from the bottom1 which is discolored by the annual rise of the water to that or a greater height4 ,on the left side of the island we have a good view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns of vapor to ascend1 as it leaps quite clear of the rock1 and forms a thick unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom4 ,its whiteness gave the idea of snow1 a sight ,i had not seen for many a day4 ,as it broke into 7if ,i may use the term7 pieces of water1 all rushing on in the same direction1 each gave off several rays of foam1 exactly as bits of steel1 when burned in oxygen gas1 give off rays of sparks4 ,the snow-white sheet seemed like myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction1 each of which left behind its nucleus rays of foam4 ,i never saw the appearance referred to noticed elsewhere4 ,it seemed to be the effect of the mass of water leaping at once clear of the rock1 and but slowly breaking up into spray4 ,i have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapor ascending from this strange abyss4 ,they are evidently formed by the compression suffered by the force of the water's own fall into an unyielding wedge-shaped space4 ,of the five columns1 two on the right and one on the left of the island were the largest1 and the streams which formed them seemed each to exceed in size the falls of the ,clyde at ,stonebyres when that river is in flood4 ,this was the period of low water in the ,leeambye2 but1 as far as ,i could guess1 there was a flow of five or six hundred yards of water1 which1 at the edge of the fall1 seemed at least three feet deep4 ,i write in the hope that others1 more capable of judging distances than myself1 will visit the scene1 and ,i state simply the impressions made on my mind at the time4 ,i thought1 and do still think1 the river above the falls to be one thousand yards broad2 but ,i am a poor judge of distances on water1 for ,i showed a naval friend what ,i supposed to be four hundred yards in the ,bay of ,loanda1 and1 to my surprise1 he pronounced it to be nine hundred4 ,i tried to measure the ,leeambye with a strong thread1 the only line ,i had in my possession1 but1 when the men had gone two or three hundred yards1 they got into conversation1 and did not hear us shouting that the line had become entangled4 ,by still going on they broke it1 and1 being carried away down the stream1 it was lost on a snag4 ,in vain ,i tried to bring to my recollection the way ,i had been taught to measure a river by taking an angle with the sextant4 ,that ,i once knew it1 and that it was easy1 were all the lost ideas ,i could recall1 and they only increased my vexation4 ,however1 ,i measured the river farther down by another plan1 and then ,i discovered that the ,portuguese had measured it at ,tete1 and found it a little over one thousand yards4 ,at the falls it is as broad as at ,tete1 if not more so4 ,whoever may come after me will not1 ,i trust1 find reason to say ,i have indulged in exaggeration499 ,with respect to the drawing1 it must be borne in mind that it was composed from a rude sketch as viewed from the island1 which exhibited the columns of vapor only1 and a ground plan4 ,the artist has given a good idea of the scene1 but1 by way of explanation1 he has shown more of the depth of the fissure than is visible except by going close to the edge4 ,the left-hand column1 and that farthest off1 are the smallest1 and all ought to have been a little more tapering at the tops4 99 ,the river is about one mile 7#a4f km7 wide at the falls1 and plunges over #cej feet at the centre4 ,livingstone greatly underestimated both distances4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,the fissure is said by the ,makololo to be very much deeper farther to the eastward2 there is one part at which the walls are so sloping that people accustomed to it can go down by descending in a sitting position4 ,the ,makololo on one occasion1 pursuing some fugitive ,batoka1 saw them1 unable to stop the impetus of their flight at the edge1 literally dashed to pieces at the bottom4 ,they beheld the stream like a white cord at the bottom1 and so far down 7probably #cjj feet7 that they became giddy1 and were fain to go away holding on to the ground4 ,now1 though the edge of the rock over which the river falls does not show wearing more than three feet1 and there is no appearance of the opposite wall being worn out at the bottom in the parts exposed to view1 yet it is probable that1 where it has flowed beyond the walls1 the sides of the fissure may have given way1 and the parts out of sight may be broader than the white cord on the surface4 ,there may even be some ramifications of the fissure1 which take a portion of the stream quite beneath the rocks2 but this ,i did not learn4 ,if we take the want of much wear on the lip of hard basaltic rock as of any value1 the period when this rock was riven is not geologically very remote4 ,i regretted the want of proper means of measuring and marking its width at the falls1 in order that1 at some future time1 the question whether it is progressive or not might be tested4 ,it seemed as if a palm-tree could be laid across it from the island4 ,and if it is progressive1 as it would mark a great natural drainage being effected1 it might furnish a hope that ,africa will one day become a healthy continent4 ,it is1 at any rate1 very much changed in respect to its lakes within a comparatively recent period4 ,at three spots near these falls1 one of them the island in the middle1 on which we were1 three ,batoka chiefs offered up prayers and sacrifices to the ,barimo4 ,they chose their places of prayer within the sound of the roar of the cataract1 and in sight of the bright bows in the cloud4 ,they must have looked upon the scene with awe4 ,fear may have induced the selection4 ,the river itself is to them mysterious4 ,the words of the canoe-song are1 ,the ,leeambye6 ,nobody knows ,whence it comes and whither it goes4 ,the play of colors of the double iris on the cloud1 seen by them elsewhere only as the rainbow1 may have led them to the idea that this was the abode of ,deity4 ,some of the ,makololo1 who went with me near to ,gonye1 looked upon the same sign with awe4 ,when seen in the heavens it is named motse oa barimo--the pestle of the gods4 ,here they could approach the emblem1 and see it stand steadily above the blustering uproar below--a type of ,him who sits supreme--alone unchangeable1 though ruling over all changing things4 ,but1 not aware of ,his true character1 they had no admiration of the beautiful and good in their bosoms4 ,they did not imitate ,his benevolence1 for they were a bloody1 imperious crew1 and ,sebituane performed a noble service in the expulsion from their fastnesses of these cruel ,lords of the ,isles4 ,having feasted my eyes long on the beautiful sight1 ,i returned to my friends at ,kalai1 and saying to ,sekeletu that he had nothing else worth showing in his country1 his curiosity was excited to visit it the next day4 ,i returned with the intention of taking a lunar observation from the island itself1 but the clouds were unfavorable1 consequently all my determinations of position refer to ,kalai4 7,lat4 #ag;d #ea' #ed ,s41 long4 #be;d #da' ,e47 ,sekeletu acknowledged to feeling a little nervous at the probability99 of being sucked into the gulf before reaching the island4 ,his companions amused themselves by throwing stones down1 and wondered to see them diminishing in size1 and even disappearing1 before they reached the water at the bottom4 99 ,in modern ,american ,english1 the word possibility is more appropriate here1 and elsewhere in the text where probability is used4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,i had another object in view in my return to the island4 ,i observed that it was covered with trees1 the seeds of which had probably come down with the stream from the distant north1 and several of which ,i had seen nowhere else1 and every now and then the wind wafted a little of the condensed vapor over it1 and kept the soil in a state of moisture1 which caused a sward of grass1 growing as green as on an ,english lawn4 ,i selected a spot--not too near the chasm1 for there the constant deposition of the moisture nourished numbers of polypi of a mushroom shape and fleshy consistence1 but somewhat back--and made a little garden4 ,i there planted about a hundred peach and apricot stones1 and a quantity of coffee-seeds4 ,i had attempted fruit-trees before1 but1 when left in charge of my ,makololo friends1 they were always allowed to wither1 after having vegetated1 by being forgotten4 ,i bargained for a hedge with one of the ,makololo1 and if he is faithful1 ,i have great hopes of ,mosioatunya's abilities as a nursery-man4 ,my only source of fear is the hippopotami1 whose footprints ,i saw on the island4 ,when the garden was prepared1 ,i cut my initials on a tree1 and the date #ahee4 ,this was the only instance in which ,i indulged in this piece of vanity4 ,the garden stands in front1 and1 were there no hippopotami1 ,i have no doubt but this will be the parent of all the gardens which may yet be in this new country4 ,we then went up to ,kalai again4 ,on passing up we had a view of the hut on the island where my goods had lain so long in safety4 ,it was under a group of palm-trees1 and ,sekeletu informed me that1 so fully persuaded were most of the ,makololo of the presence of dangerous charms in the packages1 that1 had ,i not returned to tell them the contrary1 they never would have been touched4 ,some of the diviners had been so positive in their decisions on the point1 that the men who lifted a bag thought they felt a live kid in it4 ,the diviners always quote their predictions when they happen to tally with the event4 ,they declared that the whole party which went to ,loanda had perished2 and as ,i always quoted the instances in which they failed1 many of them refused to throw the bola 7instruments of divination7 when ,i was near4 ,this was a noted instance of failure4 ,it would have afforded me equal if not greater pleasure to have exposed the failure1 if such it had been1 of the ,european diviner whose paper lay a whole year on this island1 but ,i was obliged to confess that he had been successful with his bola1 and could only comfort myself with the idea that1 though ,sir ,roderick ,murchison's discourse had lain so long within sight and sound of the magnificent falls1 ,i had been cut out by no one in their discovery4 ,i saw the falls at low water1 and the columns of vapor when five or six miles distant4 ,when the river is full1 or in flood1 the columns1 it is said1 can be seen ten miles off1 and the sound is quite distinct somewhat below ,kalai1 or about an equal distance4 ,no one can then go to the island in the middle4 ,the next visitor must bear these points in mind in comparing his description with mine4 ,we here got information of a foray which had been made by a ,makololo man in the direction we were going4 ,this instance of marauding was so much in accordance with the system which has been pursued in this country that ,i did not wonder at it4 ,but the man had used ,sekeletu's name as having sent him1 and1 the proof being convincing1 he would undoubtedly be fined4 ,as that would be the first instance of a fine being levied for marauding1 ,i looked upon it as the beginning of a better state of things4 ,in tribes which have been accustomed to cattle-stealing1 the act is not considered immoral in the way that theft is4 ,before ,i knew the language well1 ,i said to a chief1 ,you stole the cattle of so and so4 ,no1 ,i did not steal them1 was the reply1 ,i only ,,lifted them4 ,the word gapa is identical with the ,highland term for the same deed4 ,another point came to our notice here4 ,some ,mambari had come down thus far1 and induced the ,batoka to sell a very large tusk which belonged to ,sekeletu for a few bits of cloth4 ,they had gone among the ,batoka who need hoes1 and1 having purchased some of these from the people near ,sesheke1 induced the others living farther east to sell both ivory and children4 ,they would not part with children for clothing or beads1 but agriculture with wooden hoes is so laborious1 that the sight of the hoes prevailed4 ,the ,makololo proposed to knock the ,mambari on the head as the remedy the next time they came2 but on my proposing that they should send hoes themselves1 and thereby secure the ivory in a quiet way1 all approved highly of the idea1 and ,pitsane and ,mohorisi expatiated on the value of the ivory1 their own willingness to go and sell it at ,loanda1 and the disgust with which the ,mambari whom we met in ,angola had looked upon their attempt to reach the proper market4 ,if nothing untoward happens1 ,i think there is a fair prospect of the trade in slaves being abolished in a natural way in this quarter1 ,pitsane and ,mohorisi having again expressed their willingness to go away back to ,loanda if ,sekeletu would give them orders4 ,this was the more remarkable1 as both have plenty of food and leisure at home4 #bj,,th ,,november4 ,sekeletu and his large party having conveyed me thus far1 and furnished me with a company of #aad men to carry the tusks to the coast1 we bade adieu to the ,makololo1 and proceeded northward to the ,lekone4 ,the country around is very beautiful1 and was once well peopled with ,batoka1 who possessed enormous herds of cattle4 ,when ,sebituane came in former times1 with his small but warlike party of ,makololo1 to this spot1 a general rising took place of the ,batoka through the whole country1 in order to eat him up2 but his usual success followed him1 and1 dispersing them1 the ,makololo obtained so many cattle that they could not take any note of the herds of sheep and goats4 ,the tsetse has been brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly cattle abounded4 ,this obliged us to travel the first few stages by night4 ,we could not well detect the nature of the country in the dim moonlight2 the path1 however1 seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have been the ancient bed of the ,zambesi before the fissure was made4 ,the ,lekone now winds in it in an opposite direction to that in which the ancient river must have flowed4 ,both the ,lekone and ,unguesi flow back toward the centre of the country1 and in an opposite direction to that of the main stream4 ,it was plain1 then1 that we were ascending the farther we went eastward4 ,the level of the lower portion of the ,lekone is about two hundred feet above that of the ,zambesi at the falls1 and considerably more than the altitude of ,linyanti2 consequently1 when the river flowed along this ancient bed instead of through the rent1 the whole country between this and the ridge beyond ,libebe westward1 ,lake ,ngami and the ,zouga southward1 and eastward beyond ,nchokotsa1 was one large fresh-water lake4 ,there is abundant evidence of the existence and extent of this vast lake in the longitudes indicated1 and stretching from #ag ,deg4 to #ba ,deg4 south latitude4 ,the whole of this space is paved with a bed of tufa1 more or less soft1 according as it is covered with soil1 or left exposed to atmospheric influences4 ,wherever ant-eaters make deep holes in this ancient bottom1 fresh-water shells are thrown out1 identical with those now existing in the ,lake ,ngami and the ,zambesi4 ,the ,barotse valley was another lake of a similar nature2 and one existed beyond ,masiko1 and a fourth near the ,orange ,river4 ,the whole of these lakes were let out by means of cracks or fissures made in the subtending sides by the upheaval of the country4 ,the fissure made at the ,victoria ,falls let out the water of this great valley1 and left a small patch in what was probably its deepest portion1 and is now called ,lake ,ngami4 ,the ,falls of ,gonye furnished an outlet to the lake of the ,barotse valley1 and so of the other great lakes of remote times4 ,the ,congo also finds its way to the sea through a narrow fissure1 and so does the ,orange ,river in the west2 while other rents made in the eastern ridge1 as the ,victoria ,falls and those to the east of ,tanganyenka1 allowed the central waters to drain eastward4 ,all the ,african lakes hitherto discovered are shallow1 in consequence of being the mere 'residua' of very much larger ancient bodies of water4 ,there can be no doubt that this continent was1 in former times1 very much more copiously supplied with water than at present1 but a natural process of drainage has been going on for ages4 ,deep fissures are made1 probably by the elevation of the land1 proofs of which are seen in modern shells imbedded in marly tufa all round the coast-line4 ,whether this process of desiccation is as rapid throughout the continent as1 in a letter to the late ,dean ,buckland1 in #ahdc1 ,i showed to have been the case in the ,bechuana country1 it is not for me to say2 but1 though there is a slight tradition of the waters having burst through the low hills south of the ,barotse1 there is none of a sudden upheaval accompanied by an earthquake4 ,the formation of the crack of ,mosioatunya is perhaps too ancient for that2 yet1 although information of any remarkable event is often transmitted in the native names1 and they even retain a tradition which looks like the story of ,solomon and the harlots1 there is not a name like ,tom ,earthquake or ,sam ,shake-the-ground in the whole country4 ,they have a tradition which may refer to the building of the ,tower of ,babel1 but it ends in the bold builders getting their crowns cracked by the fall of the scaffolding2 and that they came out of a cave called ,loey 7,noe87 in company with the beasts1 and all point to it in one direction1 viz41 the ,n4,n4,e4 ,loey1 too1 is an exception in the language1 as they use masculine instead of neuter pronouns to it4 ,if we take a glance back at the great valley1 the form the rivers have taken imparts the idea of a lake slowly drained out1 for they have cut out for themselves beds exactly like what we may see in the soft mud of a shallow pool of rain-water1 when that is let off by a furrow4 ,this idea would probably not strike a person on coming first into the country1 but more extensive acquaintance with the river system certainly would convey the impression4 ,none of the rivers in the valley of the ,leeambye have slopes down to their beds4 ,indeed1 many parts are much like the ,thames at the ,isle of ,dogs1 only the ,leeambye has to rise twenty or thirty feet before it can overflow some of its meadows4 ,the rivers have each a bed of low water--a simple furrow cut sharply out of the calcareous tufa which lined the channel of the ancient lake--and another of inundation4 ,when the beds of inundation are filled1 they assume the appearance of chains of lakes4 ,when the ,clyde fills the holms 7haughs7 above ,bothwell ,bridge and retires again into its channel1 it resembles the river we are speaking of1 only here there are no high lands sloping down toward the bed of inundation1 for the greater part of the region is not elevated fifty feet above them4 ,even the rocky banks of the ,leeambye below ,gonye1 and the ridges bounding the ,barotse valley1 are not more than two or three hundred feet in altitude over the general dead level4 ,many of the rivers are very tortuous in their course1 the ,chobe and ,simah particularly so2 and1 if we may receive the testimony of the natives1 they form what anatomists call 'anastamosis'1 or a network of rivers4 ,thus1 for instance1 they assured me that if they go up the ,simah in a canoe1 they can enter the ,chobe1 and descend that river to the ,leeambye2 or they may go up the ,kama and come down the ,simah2 and so in the case of the ,kafue4 ,it is reputed to be connected in this way with the ,leeambye in the north1 and to part with the ,loangwa2 and the ,makololo went from the one into the other in canoes4 ,and even though the interlacing may not be quite to the extent believed by the natives1 the country is so level and the rivers so tortuous that ,i see no improbability in the conclusion that here is a network of waters of a very peculiar nature4 ,the reason why ,i am disposed to place a certain amount of confidence in the native reports is this3 when ,mr4 ,oswell and ,i discovered the ,zambesi in the centre of the continent in #ahea1 being unable to ascend it at the time ourselves1 we employed the natives to draw a map embodying their ideas of that river4 ,we then sent the native map home with the same view that ,i now mention their ideas of the river system1 namely1 in order to be an aid to others in farther investigations4 ,when ,i was able to ascend the ,leeambye to #ad ,deg4 south1 and subsequently descend it1 ,i found1 after all the care ,i could bestow1 that the alterations ,i was able to make in the original native plan were very trifling4 ,the general idea their map gave was wonderfully accurate2 and now ,i give1 in the larger map appended1 their views of the other rivers1 in the hope that they may prove helpful to any traveler who may pursue the investigation farther4 #bd,,th4 ,we remained a day at the village of ,moyara4 ,here the valley in which the ,lekone flows trends away to the eastward1 while our course is more to the northeast4 ,the country is rocky and rough1 the soil being red sand1 which is covered with beautiful green trees1 yielding abundance of wild fruits4 ,the father of ,moyara was a powerful chief1 but the son now sits among the ruins of the town1 with four or five wives and very few people4 ,at his hamlet a number of stakes are planted in the ground1 and ,i counted fifty-four human skulls hung on their points4 ,these were ,matebele1 who1 unable to approach ,sebituane on the island of ,loyela1 had returned sick and famishing4 ,moyara's father took advantage of their reduced condition1 and after putting them to death1 mounted their heads in the ,batoka fashion4 ,the old man who perpetrated this deed now lies in the middle of his son's huts1 with a lot of rotten ivory over his grave4 ,one can not help feeling thankful that the reign of such wretches is over4 ,they inhabited the whole of this side of the country1 and were probably the barrier to the extension of the ,portuguese commerce in this direction4 ,when looking at these skulls1 ,i remarked to ,moyara that many of them were those of mere boys4 ,he assented readily1 and pointed them out as such4 ,i asked why his father had killed boys4 ,to show his fierceness1 was the answer4 ,is it fierceness to kill boys8 ,yes2 they had no business here4 ,when ,i told him that this probably would insure his own death if the ,matebele came again1 he replied1 ,when ,i hear of their coming ,i shall hide the bones4 ,he was evidently proud of these trophies of his father's ferocity1 and ,i was assured by other ,batoka that few strangers ever returned from a visit to this quarter4 ,if a man wished to curry favor with a ,batoka chief1 he ascertained when a stranger was about to leave1 and waylaid him at a distance from the town1 and when he brought his head back to the chief1 it was mounted as a trophy1 the different chiefs vieing with each other as to which should mount the greatest number of skulls in his village4 ,if1 as has been asserted1 the ,portuguese ever had a chain of trading stations across the country from ,caconda to ,tete1 it must have passed through these people2 but the total ignorance of the ,zambesi flowing from north to south in the centre of the country1 and the want of knowledge of the astonishing falls of ,victoria1 which excite the wonder of even the natives1 together with the absence of any tradition of such a chain of stations1 compel me to believe that they existed only on paper4 ,this conviction is strengthened by the fact that when a late attempt was made to claim the honor of crossing the continent for the ,portuguese1 the only proof advanced was the journey of two black traders formerly mentioned1 adorned with the name of ,portuguese4 ,if a chain of stations had existed1 a few hundred names of the same sort might easily have been brought forward2 and such is the love of barter among all the central ,africans1 that1 had there existed a market for ivory1 its value would have become known1 and even that on the graves of the chiefs would not have been safe4 ,when about to leave ,moyara on the #beth1 he brought a root which1 when pounded and sprinkled over the oxen1 is believed to disgust the tsetse1 so that it flies off without sucking the blood4 ,he promised to show me the plant or tree if ,i would give him an ox2 but1 as we were traveling1 and could not afford the time required for the experiment1 so as not to be cheated 7as ,i had too often been by my medical friends71 ,i deferred the investigation till ,i returned4 ,it is probably but an evanescent remedy1 and capable of rendering the cattle safe during one night only4 ,moyara is now quite a dependent of the ,makololo1 and my new party1 not being thoroughly drilled1 forced him to carry a tusk for them4 ,when ,i relieved him1 he poured forth a shower of thanks at being allowed to go back to sleep beneath his skulls4 ,next day we came to ,namilanga1 or ,the ,well of ,joy4 ,it is a small well dug beneath a very large fig-tree1 the shade of which renders the water delightfully cool4 ,the temperature through the day was #ajd ,deg4 in the shade and #id ,deg4 after sunset1 but the air was not at all oppressive4 ,this well received its name from the fact that1 in former times1 marauding parties1 in returning with cattle1 sat down here and were regaled with boyaloa1 music1 and the lullilooing of the women from the adjacent towns4 ,all the surrounding country was formerly densely peopled1 though now desolate and still4 ,the old head man of the place told us that his father once went to ,bambala1 where white traders lived1 when our informant was a child1 and returned when he had become a boy of about ten years4 ,he went again1 and returned when it was time to knock out his son's teeth4 ,as that takes place at the age of puberty1 he must have spent at least five years in each journey4 ,he added that many who went there never returned1 because they liked that country better than this4 ,they had even forsaken their wives and children2 and children had been so enticed and flattered by the finery bestowed upon them there1 that they had disowned their parents and adopted others4 ,the place to which they had gone1 which they named ,bambala1 was probably ,dambarari1 which was situated close to ,zumbo4 ,this was the first intimation we had of intercourse with the whites4 ,the ,barotse1 and all the other tribes in the central valley1 have no such tradition as this1 nor have either the one or the other any account of a trader's visit to them in ancient times4 ,all the ,batoka tribes follow the curious custom of knocking out the upper front teeth at the age of puberty4 ,this is done by both sexes2 and though the under teeth1 being relieved from the attrition of the upper1 grow long and somewhat bent out1 and thereby cause the under lip to protrude in a most unsightly way1 no young woman thinks herself accomplished until she has got rid of the upper incisors4 ,this custom gives all the ,batoka an uncouth1 old-man-like appearance4 ,their laugh is hideous1 yet they are so attached to it that even ,sebituane was unable to eradicate the practice4 ,he issued orders that none of the children living under him should be subjected to the custom by their parents1 and disobedience to his mandates was usually punished with severity2 but1 notwithstanding this1 the children would appear in the streets without their incisors1 and no one would confess to the deed4 ,when questioned respecting the origin of this practice1 the ,batoka reply that their object is to be like oxen1 and those who retain their teeth they consider to resemble zebras4 ,whether this is the true reason or not1 it is difficult to say2 but it is noticeable that the veneration for oxen which prevails in many tribes should here be associated with hatred to the zebra1 as among the ,bakwains2 that this operation is performed at the same age that circumcision is in other tribes2 and that here that ceremony is unknown4 ,the custom is so universal that a person who has his teeth is considered ugly1 and occasionally1 when the ,batoka borrowed my looking-glass1 the disparaging remark would be made respecting boys or girls who still retained their teeth1 ,look at the great teeth6 ,some of the ,makololo give a more facetious explanation of the custom3 they say that the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten her husband's hand1 he1 in revenge1 ordered her front teeth to be knocked out1 and all the men in the tribe followed his example2 but this does not explain why they afterward knocked out their own4 ,the ,batoka of the ,zambesi are generally very dark in color1 and very degraded and negro-like in appearance1 while those who live on the high lands we are now ascending are frequently of the color of coffee and milk4 ,we had a large number of the ,batoka of ,mokwine in our party1 sent by ,sekeletu to carry his tusks4 ,their greater degradation was probably caused by the treatment of their chiefs--the barbarians of the islands4 ,i found them more difficult to manage than any of the rest of my companions1 being much less reasonable and impressible than the others4 ,my party consisted of the head men aforementioned1 ,sekwebu1 and ,kanyata4 ,we were joined at the falls by another head man of the ,makololo1 named ,monahin1 in command of the ,batoka4 ,we had also some of the ,banajoa under ,mosisinyane1 and1 last of all1 a small party of ,bashubia and ,barotse under ,tuba ,mokoro1 which had been furnished by ,sekeletu because of their ability to swim4 ,they carried their paddles with them1 and1 as the ,makololo suggested1 were able to swim over the rivers by night and steal canoes1 if the inhabitants should be so unreasonable as to refuse to lend them4 ,these different parties assorted together into messes2 any orders were given through their head man1 and when food was obtained he distributed it to the mess4 ,each party knew its own spot in the encampment2 and as this was always placed so that our backs should be to the east1 the direction from whence the prevailing winds came1 no time was lost in fixing the sheds of our encampment4 ,they each took it in turn to pull grass to make my bed1 so ,i lay luxuriously4 ,,november #bf,,th4 ,as the oxen could only move at night1 in consequence of a fear that the buffaloes in this quarter might have introduced the tsetse1 ,i usually performed the march by day on foot1 while some of the men brought on the oxen by night4 ,on coming to the villages under ,marimba1 an old man1 we crossed the ,unguesi1 a rivulet which1 like the ,lekone1 runs backward4 ,it falls into the ,leeambye a little above the commencement of the rapids4 ,the stratified gneiss1 which is the underlying rock of much of this part of the country1 dips toward the centre of the continent1 but the strata are often so much elevated as to appear nearly on their edges4 ,rocks of augitic trap are found in various positions on it2 the general strike is north and south2 but when the gneiss was first seen1 near to the basalt of the falls1 it was easterly and westerly1 and the dip toward the north1 as if the eruptive force of the basalt had placed it in that position4 ,we passed the remains of a very large town1 which1 from the only evidence of antiquity afforded by ruins in this country1 must have been inhabited for a long period2 the millstones of gneiss1 trap1 and quartz were worn down two and a half inches perpendicularly4 ,the ivory grave-stones soon rot away4 ,those of ,moyara's father1 who must have died not more than a dozen years ago1 were crumbling into powder2 and we found this to be generally the case all over the ,batoka country4 ,the region around is pretty well covered with forest2 but there is abundance of open pasturage1 and1 as we are ascending in altitude1 we find the grass to be short1 and altogether unlike the tangled herbage of the ,barotse valley4 ,it is remarkable that we now meet with the same trees we saw in descending toward the west coast4 ,a kind of sterculia1 which is the most common tree at ,loanda1 and the baobab1 flourish here2 and the tree called moshuka1 which we found near ,tala ,mungongo1 was now yielding its fruit1 which resembles small apples4 ,the people brought it to us in large quantities3 it tastes like a pear1 but has a harsh rind1 and four large seeds within4 ,we found prodigious quantities of this fruit as we went along4 ,the tree attains the height of #ae or #bj feet1 and has leaves1 hard and glossy1 as large as one's hand4 ,the tree itself is never found on the lowlands1 but is mentioned with approbation at the end of the work of ,bowditch4 ,my men almost lived upon the fruit for many days4 ,the rains had fallen only partially3 in many parts the soil was quite dry and the leaves drooped mournfully1 but the fruit-trees are unaffected by a drought1 except when it happens at the time of their blossoming4 ,the ,batoka of my party declared that no one ever dies of hunger here4 ,we obtained baskets of maneko1 a curious fruit1 with a horny rind1 split into five pieces3 these sections1 when chewed1 are full of a fine glutinous matter1 and sweet like sugar4 ,the seeds are covered with a yellow silky down1 and are not eaten3 the entire fruit is about the size of a walnut4 ,we got also abundance of the motsouri and mamosho4 ,we saw the ,batoka eating the beans called nju1 which are contained in a large square pod2 also the pulp between the seeds of nux vomica1 and the motsintsela4 ,other fruits become ripe at other seasons1 as the motsikiri1 which yields an oil1 and is a magnificent tree1 bearing masses of dark evergreen leaves2 so that1 from the general plenty1 one can readily believe the statement made by the ,batoka4 ,we here saw trees allowed to stand in gardens1 and some of the ,batoka even plant them1 a practice seen nowhere else among natives4 ,a species of leucodendron abounds4 ,when we meet with it on a spot on which no rain has yet fallen1 we see that the young ones twist their leaves round during the heat of the day1 so that the edge only is exposed to the rays of the sun2 they have then a half twist on the petiole4 ,the acacias in the same circumstances1 and also the mopane 7',bauhania'71 fold their leaves together1 and1 by presenting the smallest possible surface to the sun1 simulate the eucalypti of ,australia4 ,chapter #bg4 ,low ,hills--,black ,soldier-,ants2 their ,cannibalism--,the ,plasterer and its ,chloroform--,white ,ants2 their ,usefulness--,mutokwane-smoking2 its ,effects--,border ,territory--,healthy ,table-lands--,geological ,formation--,cicadae--,trees--,flowers-- ,river ,kalomo--,physical ,conformation of ,country--,ridges1 sanatoria--,a wounded ,buffalo assisted--,buffalo-bird--,rhinoceros-bir d--,leaders of ,herds--,the ,honey-guide--,the ,white ,mountain--,mozuma ,river--,sebituane's old ,home--,hostile ,village--,prophetic ,phrensy--,food of the ,elephant-- ,ant-hills--,friendly ,batoka--,clothing despised--,method of ,salutation-- ,wild ,fruits--,the ,captive released--,longings for ,peace--,pingola's ,conquests--,the ,village of ,monze--,aspect of the ,country--,visit from the ,chief ,monze and his ,wife--,central healthy ,locations--,friendly ,feelings of the ,people in reference to a white ,resident--,fertility of the ,soil--,bashukulompo ,mode of dressing their ,hair--,gratitude of the ,prisoner we released--,kindness and ,remarks of ,monze's ,sister--,dip of the ,rocks--,vegetation--,generosity of the ,inhabitants--,their ,anxiety for ,medicine--,hooping-cough--,birds and ,rain4 ,,november #bg,,th4 ,still at ,marimba's4 ,in the adjacent country palms abound1 but none of that species which yields the oil2 indeed1 that is met with only near the coast4 ,there are numbers of flowers and bulbs just shooting up from the soil4 ,the surface is rough1 and broken into gullies2 and1 though the country is parched1 it has not that appearance1 so many trees having put forth their fresh green leaves at the time the rains ought to have come4 ,among the rest stands the mola1 with its dark brownish-green color and spreading oak-like form4 ,in the distance there are ranges of low hills4 ,on the north we have one called ,kanjele1 and to the east that of ,kaonka1 to which we proceed to-morrow4 ,we have made a considerable detour to the north1 both on account of our wish to avoid the tsetse and to visit the people4 ,those of ,kaonka are the last ,batoka we shall meet1 in friendship with the ,makololo4 ,walking down to the forest1 after telling these poor people1 for the first time in their lives1 that the ,son of ,god had so loved them as to come down from heaven to save them1 ,i observed many regiments of black soldier-ants returning from their marauding expeditions4 ,these ,i have often noticed before in different parts of the country2 and as we had1 even at ,kolobeng1 an opportunity of observing their habits1 ,i may give a short account of them here4 ,they are black1 with a slight tinge of gray1 about half an inch in length1 and on the line of march appear three or four abreast2 when disturbed1 they utter a distinct hissing or chirping sound4 ,they follow a few leaders who never carry any thing1 and they seem to be guided by a scent left on the path by the leaders2 for1 happening once to throw the water from my basin behind a bush where ,i was dressing1 it lighted on the path by which a regiment had passed before ,i began my toilette1 and when they returned they were totally at a loss to find the way home1 though they continued searching for it nearly half an hour4 ,it was found only by one making a long circuit round the wetted spot4 ,the scent may have indicated also the propriety of their going in one direction only4 ,if a handful of earth is thrown on the path at the middle of the regiment1 either on its way home or abroad1 those behind it are completely at a loss as to their farther progress4 ,whatever it may be that guides them1 they seem only to know that they are not to return1 for they come up to the handful of earth1 but will not cross it1 though not a quarter of an inch high4 ,they wheel round and regain their path again1 but never think of retreating to the nest1 or to the place where they have been stealing4 ,after a quarter of an hour's confusion and hissing1 one may make a circuit of a foot round the earth1 and soon all follow in that roundabout way4 ,when on their way to attack the abode of the white ants1 the latter may be observed rushing about in a state of great perturbation4 ,the black leaders1 distinguished from the rest by their greater size1 especially in the region of the sting1 then seize the white ants one by one1 and inflict a sting1 which seems to inject a portion of fluid similar in effect to chloroform1 as it renders them insensible1 but not dead1 and only able to move one or two front legs4 ,as the leaders toss them on one side1 the rank and file seize them and carry them off4 ,one morning ,i saw a party going forth on what has been supposed to be a slave-hunting expedition4 ,they came to a stick1 which1 being inclosed in a white-ant gallery1 ,i knew contained numbers of this insect2 but ,i was surprised to see the black soldiers passing without touching it4 ,i lifted up the stick and broke a portion of the gallery1 and then laid it across the path in the middle of the black regiment4 ,the white ants1 when uncovered1 scampered about with great celerity1 hiding themselves under the leaves1 but attracted little attention from the black marauders till one of the leaders caught them1 and1 applying his sting1 laid them in an instant on one side in a state of coma2 the others then promptly seized them and rushed off4 ,on first observing these marauding insects at ,kolobeng1 ,i had the idea1 imbibed from a work of no less authority than ,brougham's ,paley1 that they seized the white ants in order to make them slaves2 but1 having rescued a number of captives1 ,i placed them aside1 and found that they never recovered from the state of insensibility into which they had been thrown by the leaders4 ,i supposed then that the insensibility had been caused by the soldiers holding the necks of the white ants too tightly with their mandibles1 as that is the way they seize them2 but even the pupae which ,i took from the soldier-ants1 though placed in a favorable temperature1 never became developed4 ,in addition to this1 if any one examines the orifice by which the black ant enters his barracks1 he will always find a little heap of hard heads and legs of white ants1 showing that these black ruffians are a grade lower than slave-stealers1 being actually cannibals4 ,elsewhere ,i have seen a body of them removing their eggs from a place in which they were likely to be flooded by the rains2 ,i calculated their numbers to be #abfj2 they carried their eggs a certain distance1 then laid them down1 when others took them and carried them farther on4 ,every ant in the colony seemed to be employed in this laborious occupation1 yet there was not a white slave-ant among them4 ,one cold morning ,i observed a band of another species of black ant returning each with a captive2 there could be no doubt of their cannibal propensities1 for the brutal soldiery had already deprived the white ants of their legs4 ,the fluid in the stings of this species is of an intensely acid taste4 ,i had often noticed the stupefaction produced by the injection of a fluid from the sting of certain insects before4 ,it is particularly observable in a hymenopterous insect called the plasterer 7',pelopaeus ,eckloni'71 which in his habits resembles somewhat the mason-bee4 ,it is about an inch and a quarter in length1 jet black in color1 and may be observed coming into houses1 carrying in its fore legs a pellet of soft plaster about the size of a pea4 ,when it has fixed upon a convenient spot for its dwelling1 it forms a cell about the same length as its body1 plastering the walls so as to be quite thin and smooth inside4 ,when this is finished1 all except a round hole1 it brings seven or eight caterpillars or spiders1 each of which is rendered insensible1 but not killed1 by the fluid from its sting4 ,these it deposits in the cell1 and then one of its own larvae1 which1 as it grows1 finds food quite fresh4 ,the insects are in a state of coma1 but the presence of vitality prevents putridity1 or that drying up which would otherwise take place in this climate4 ,by the time the young insect is full grown and its wings completely developed1 the food is done4 ,it then pierces the wall of its cell at the former door1 or place last filled up by its parent1 flies off1 and begins life for itself4 ,the plasterer is a most useful insect1 as it acts as a check on the inordinate increase of caterpillars and spiders4 ,it may often be seen with a caterpillar or even a cricket much larger than itself1 but they lie perfectly still after the injection of chloroform1 and the plasterer1 placing a row of legs on each side of the body1 uses both legs and wings in trailing the victim along4 ,the fluid in each case is1 ,i suppose1 designed to cause insensibility1 and likewise act as an antiseptic1 the death of the victims being without pain4 ,without these black soldier-ants the country would be overrun by the white ants2 they are so extremely prolific1 and nothing can exceed the energy with which they work4 ,they perform a most important part in the economy of nature by burying vegetable matter as quickly beneath the soil as the ferocious red ant does dead animal substances4 ,the white ant keeps generally out of sight1 and works under galleries constructed by night to screen them from the observation of birds4 ,at some given signal1 however1 ,i never could ascertain what1 they rush out by hundreds1 and the sound of their mandibles cutting grass into lengths may be heard like a gentle wind murmuring through the leaves of the trees4 ,they drag these pieces to the doors of their abodes1 and after some hours' toil leave off work1 and many of the bits of grass may be seen collected around the orifice4 ,they continue out of sight for perhaps a month1 but they are never idle4 ,on one occasion1 a good bundle of grass was laid down for my bed on a spot which was quite smooth and destitute of plants4 ,the ants at once sounded the call to a good supply of grass4 ,i heard them incessantly nibbling and carrying away all that night2 and they continued all next day 7,sunday71 and all that night too1 with unabated energy4 ,they had thus been thirty-six hours at it1 and seemed as fresh as ever4 ,in some situations1 if we remained a day1 they devoured the grass beneath my mat1 and would have eaten that too had we not laid down more grass4 ,at some of their operations they beat time in a curious manner4 ,hundreds of them are engaged in building a large tube1 and they wish to beat it smooth4 ,at a signal1 they all give three or four energetic beats on the plaster in unison4 ,it produces a sound like the dropping of rain off a bush when touched4 ,these insects are the chief agents employed in forming a fertile soil4 ,but for their labors1 the tropical forests1 bad as they are now with fallen trees1 would be a thousand times worse4 ,they would be impassable on account of the heaps of dead vegetation lying on the surface1 and emitting worse effluvia than the comparatively small unburied collections do now4 ,when one looks at the wonderful adaptations throughout creation1 and the varied operations carried on with such wisdom and skill1 the idea of second causes looks clumsy4 ,we are viewing the direct handiwork of ,him who is the one and only ,power in the universe2 wonderful in counsel2 in whom we all live1 and move1 and have our being4 ,the ,batoka of these parts are very degraded in their appearance1 and are not likely to improve1 either physically or mentally1 while so much addicted to smoking the mutokwane 7',cannabis sativa'74 ,they like its narcotic effects1 though the violent fit of coughing which follows a couple of puffs of smoke appears distressing1 and causes a feeling of disgust in the spectator4 ,this is not diminished on seeing the usual practice of taking a mouthful of water1 and squirting it out together with the smoke1 then uttering a string of half-incoherent sentences1 usually in self-praise4 ,this pernicious weed is extensively used in all the tribes of the interior4 ,it causes a species of phrensy1 and ,sebituane's soldiers1 on coming in sight of their enemies1 sat down and smoked it1 in order that they might make an effective onslaught4 ,i was unable to prevail on ,sekeletu and the young ,makololo to forego its use1 although they can not point to an old man in the tribe who has been addicted to this indulgence4 ,i believe it was the proximate cause of ,sebituane's last illness1 for it sometimes occasions pneumonia4 ,never having tried it1 ,i can not describe the pleasurable effects it is said to produce1 but the hashish in use among the ,turks is simply an extract of the same plant1 and that1 like opium1 produces different effects on different individuals4 ,some view every thing as if looking in through the wide end of a telescope1 and others1 in passing over a straw1 lift up their feet as if about to cross the trunk of a tree4 ,the ,portuguese in ,angola have such a belief in its deleterious effects that the use of it by a slave is considered a crime4 ,,november #bh,,th4 ,the inhabitants of the last of ,kaonka's villages complained of being plundered by the independent ,batoka4 ,the tribes in front of this are regarded by the ,makololo as in a state of rebellion4 ,i promised to speak to the rebels on the subject1 and enjoined on ,kaonka the duty of giving them no offense4 ,according to ,sekeletu's order1 ,kaonka gave us the tribute of maize-corn and ground-nuts1 which would otherwise have gone to ,linyanti4 ,this had been done at every village1 and we thereby saved the people the trouble of a journey to the capital4 ,my own ,batoka had brought away such loads of provisions from their homes that we were in no want of food4 ,after leaving ,kaonka we traveled over an uninhabited1 gently undulating1 and most beautiful district1 the border territory between those who accept and those who reject the sway of the ,makololo4 ,the face of the country appears as if in long waves1 running north and south4 ,there are no rivers1 though water stands in pools in the hollows4 ,we were now come into the country which my people all magnify as a perfect paradise4 ,sebituane was driven from it by the ,matebele4 ,it suited him exactly for cattle1 corn1 and health4 ,the soil is dry1 and often a reddish sand2 there are few trees1 but fine large shady ones stand dotted here and there over the country where towns formerly stood4 ,one of the fig family ,i measured1 and found to be forty feet in circumference2 the heart had been burned out1 and some one had made a lodging in it1 for we saw the remains of a bed and a fire4 ,the sight of the open country1 with the increased altitude we were attaining1 was most refreshing to the spirits4 ,large game abound4 ,we see in the distance buffaloes1 elands1 hartebeest1 gnus1 and elephants1 all very tame1 as no one disturbs them4 ,lions1 which always accompany other large animals1 roared about us1 but1 as it was moonlight1 there was no danger4 ,in the evening1 while standing on a mass of granite1 one began to roar at me1 though it was still light4 ,the temperature was pleasant1 as the rains1 though not universal1 had fallen in many places4 ,it was very cloudy1 preventing observations4 ,the temperature at #f ,a4,m4 was #gj ,deg41 at midday #ij ,deg41 in the evening #hd ,deg4 ,this is very pleasant on the high lands1 with but little moisture in the air4 ,the different rocks to the westward of ,kaonka's1 talcose gneiss and white mica schist1 generally dip toward the west1 but at ,kaonka's1 large rounded masses of granite1 containing black mica1 began to appear4 ,the outer rind of it inclines to peel off1 and large crystals project on the exposed surface4 ,in passing through some parts where a good shower of rain has fallen1 the stridulous piercing notes of the cicadae are perfectly deafening2 a drab-colored cricket joins the chorus with a sharp sound1 which has as little modulation as the drone of a ,scottish bagpipe4 ,i could not conceive how so small a thing could raise such a sound2 it seemed to make the ground over it thrill4 ,when cicadae1 crickets1 and frogs unite1 their music may be heard at the distance of a quarter of a mile4 ,a tree attracted my attention as new1 the leaves being like those of an acacia1 but the ends of the branches from which they grew resembled closely oblong fir-cones4 ,the corn-poppy was abundant1 and many of the trees1 flowering bulbs1 and plants were identical with those in ,pungo ,andongo4 ,a flower as white as the snowdrop now begins to appear1 and farther on it spots the whole sward with its beautiful pure white4 ,a fresh crop appears every morning1 and if the day is cloudy they do not expand till the afternoon4 ,in an hour or so they droop and die4 ,they are named by the natives1 from their shape1 ,tlaku ea pitse1 hoof of zebra4 ,i carried several of the somewhat bulbous roots of this pretty flower till ,i reached the ,mauritius4 ,on the #cjth we crossed the ,river ,kalomo1 which is about #ej yards broad1 and is the only stream that never dries up on this ridge4 ,the current is rapid1 and its course is toward the south1 as it joins the ,zambesi at some distance below the falls4 ,the ,unguesi and ,lekone1 with their feeders1 flow westward1 this river to the south1 and all those to which we are about to come take an easterly direction4 ,we were thus at the apex of the ridge1 and found that1 as water boiled at #bjb ,deg41 our altitude above the level of the sea was over #ejjj feet4 ,here the granite crops out again in great rounded masses which change the dip of the gneiss and mica schist rocks from the westward to the eastward4 ,in crossing the western ridge ,i mentioned the clay shale or keele formation1 a section of which we have in the valley of the ,quango3 the strata there lie nearly horizontal1 but on this ridge the granite seems to have been the active agent of elevation1 for the rocks1 both on its east and west1 abut against it4 ,both eastern and western ridges are known to be comparatively salubrious1 and in this respect1 as well as in the general aspect of the country1 they resemble that most healthy of all healthy climates1 the interior of ,south ,africa1 near and adjacent to the ,desert4 ,this ridge has neither fountain nor marsh upon it1 and east of the ,kalomo we look upon treeless undulating plains covered with short grass4 ,from a point somewhat near to the great falls1 this ridge or oblong mound trends away to the northeast1 and there treeless elevated plains again appear4 ,then again the ridge is said to bend away from the falls to the southeast1 the ,mashona country1 or rather their mountains1 appearing1 according to ,mr4 ,moffat1 about four days east of ,matlokotloko1 the present residence of ,mosilikatse4 ,in reference to this ridge he makes the interesting remark1 ,i observed a number of the ,angora goat1 most of them being white2 and their long soft hair1 covering their entire bodies to the ground1 made them look like animals moving along without feet499 99 ,moffat's ,visit to ,mosilikatse4--,royal ,geographical ,society's ,journal1 vol4 xxvi41 p4 #if4 ,it is impossible to say how much farther to the north these subtending ridges may stretch4 ,there is reason to believe that1 though the same general form of country obtains1 they are not flanked by abrupt hills between the latitude #ab ,deg4 south and the equator4 ,the inquiry is worthy the attention of travelers4 ,as they are known to be favorable to health1 the ,makololo1 who have been nearly all cut off by fevers in the valley1 declaring that here they never had a headache1 they may even be recommended as a sanatorium for those whose enterprise leads them into ,africa1 either for the advancement of scientific knowledge1 or for the purposes of trade or benevolence4 ,in the case of the eastern ridge1 we have water carriage1 with only one short rapid as an obstruction1 right up to its base2 and if a quick passage can be effected during the healthy part of the year1 there would be no danger of loss of health during a long stay on these high lands afterward4 ,how much farther do these high ridges extend8 ,the eastern one seems to bend in considerably toward the great falls2 and the strike of the rocks indicating that1 farther to the ,n4,n4,e4 than my investigations extend1 it may not1 at a few degrees of latitude beyond1 be more than #cjj or #cej miles from the coast4 ,they at least merit inquiry1 for they afford a prospect to ,europeans of situations superior in point of salubrity to any of those on the coast2 and so on the western side of the continent2 for it is a fact that many parts in the interior of ,angola1 which were formerly thought to be unhealthy on account of their distance inland1 have been found1 as population advanced1 to be the most healthy spots in the country4 ,did the great ,niger expedition turn back when near such a desirable position for its stricken and prostrate members8 ,the distances from top to top of the ridges may be about #aj ,deg4 of longitude1 or #fjj geographical miles4 ,i can not hear of a hill ,,on either ridge1 and there are scarcely any in the space inclosed by them4 ,the ,monakadze is the highest1 but that is not more than a thousand feet above the flat valley4 ,on account of this want of hills in the part of the country which1 by gentle undulations1 leads one insensibly up to an altitude of #ejjj feet above the level of the sea1 ,i have adopted the agricultural term ridges1 for they partake very much of the character of the oblong mounds with which we are all familiar4 ,and we shall yet see that the mountains which are met with outside these ridges are only a low fringe1 many of which are not of much greater altitude than even the bottom of the great central valley4 ,if we leave out of view the greater breadth of the central basin at other parts1 and speak only of the comparatively narrow part formed by the bend to the westward of the eastern ridge1 we might say that the form of this region is a broad furrow in the middle1 with an elevated ridge about #bjj miles broad on either side1 the land sloping thence1 on both sides1 to the sea4 ,if ,i am right in believing the granite to be the cause of the elevation of this ridge1 the direction in which the strike of the rocks trends to the ,n4,n4,e4 may indicate that the same geological structure prevails farther north1 and two or three lakes which exist in that direction may be of exactly the same nature with ,lake ,ngami1 having been diminished to their present size by the same kind of agency as that which formed the falls of ,victoria4 ,we met an elephant on the ,kalomo which had no tusks4 ,this is as rare a thing in ,africa as it is to find them with tusks in ,ceylon4 ,as soon as she saw us she made off4 ,it is remarkable to see the fear of man operating even on this huge beast4 ,buffaloes abound1 and we see large herds of them feeding in all directions by day4 ,when much disturbed by man they retire into the densest parts of the forest1 and feed by night only4 ,we secured a fine large bull by crawling close to a herd4 ,when shot1 he fell down1 and the rest1 not seeing their enemy1 gazed about1 wondering where the danger lay4 ,the others came back to it1 and1 when we showed ourselves1 much to the amusement of my companions1 they lifted him up with their horns1 and1 half supporting him in the crowd1 bore him away4 ,all these wild animals usually gore a wounded companion1 and expel him from the herd2 even zebras bite and kick an unfortunate or a diseased one4 ,it is intended by this instinct that none but the perfect and healthy ones should propagate the species4 ,in this case they manifested their usual propensity to gore the wounded1 but our appearance at that moment caused them to take flight1 and this1 with the goring being continued a little1 gave my men the impression that they were helping away their wounded companion4 ,he was shot between the fourth and fifth ribs2 the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on the opposite side1 and then lodged beneath the skin4 ,but1 though it was eight ounces in weight1 yet he ran off some distance1 and was secured only by the people driving him into a pool of water and killing him there with their spears4 ,the herd ran away in the direction of our camp1 and then came bounding past us again4 ,we took refuge on a large ant-hill1 and as they rushed by us at full gallop ,i had a good opportunity of seeing that the leader of a herd of about sixty was an old cow2 all the others allowed her a full half-length in their front4 ,on her withers sat about twenty buffalo-birds 7',textor erythrorhynchus'1 ,smith71 which act the part of guardian spirits to the animals4 ,when the buffalo is quietly feeding1 this bird may be seen hopping on the ground picking up food1 or sitting on its back ridding it of the insects with which their skins are sometimes infested4 ,the sight of the bird being much more acute than that of the buffalo1 it is soon alarmed by the approach of any danger1 and1 flying up1 the buffaloes instantly raise their heads to discover the cause which has led to the sudden flight of their guardian4 ,they sometimes accompany the buffaloes in their flight on the wing1 at other times they sit as above described4 ,another ,african bird1 namely1 the ',buphaga ,africana'1 attends the rhinoceros for a similar purpose4 ,it is called kala in the language of the ,bechuanas4 ,when these people wish to express their dependence upon another1 they address him as my rhinoceros1 as if they were the birds4 ,the satellites of a chief go by the same name4 ,this bird can not be said to depend entirely on the insects on that animal1 for its hard1 hairless skin is a protection against all except a few spotted ticks2 but it seems to be attached to the beast1 somewhat as the domestic dog is to man2 and while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden flying up of its sentinel1 the rhinoceros1 not having keen sight1 but an acute ear1 is warned by the cry of its associate1 the ',buphaga ,africana'4 ,the rhinoceros feeds by night1 and its sentinel is frequently heard in the morning uttering its well-known call1 as it searches for its bulky companion4 ,one species of this bird1 observed in ,angola1 possesses a bill of a peculiar scoop or stone forceps form1 as if intended only to tear off insects from the skin2 and its claws are as sharp as needles1 enabling it to hang on to an animal's ear while performing a useful service within it4 ,this sharpness of the claws allows the bird to cling to the nearly insensible cuticle without irritating the nerves of pain on the true skin1 exactly as a burr does to the human hand2 but in the case of the ',buphaga ,africana' and 'erythrorhyncha'1 other food is partaken of1 for we observed flocks of them roosting on the reeds1 in spots where neither tame nor wild animals were to be found4 ,the most wary animal in a herd is generally the leader4 ,when it is shot the others often seem at a loss what to do1 and stop in a state of bewilderment4 ,i have seen them attempt to follow each other and appear quite confused1 no one knowing for half a minute or more where to direct the flight4 ,on one occasion ,i happened to shoot the leader1 a young zebra mare1 which at some former time had been bitten on the hind leg by a carnivorous animal1 and1 thereby made unusually wary1 had1 in consequence1 become a leader4 ,if they see either one of their own herd or any other animal taking to flight1 wild animals invariably flee4 ,the most timid thus naturally leads the rest4 ,it is not any other peculiarity1 but simply this provision1 which is given them for the preservation of the race4 ,the great increase of wariness which is seen to occur when the females bring forth their young1 causes all the leaders to be at that time females2 and there is a probability that the separation of sexes into distinct herds1 which is annually observed in many antelopes1 arises from the simple fact that the greater caution of the she antelopes is partaken of only by the young males1 and their more frequent flights now have the effect of leaving the old males behind4 ,i am inclined to believe this1 because1 though the antelopes1 as the pallahs1 etc41 are frequently in separate herds1 they are never seen in the act of expelling the males4 ,there may be some other reason in the case of the elephants2 but the male and female elephants are never seen in one herd4 ,the young males remain with their dams only until they are full grown2 and so constantly is the separation maintained1 that any one familiar with them1 on seeing a picture with the sexes mixed1 would immediately conclude that the artist had made it from his imagination1 and not from sight4 ,,december #b1 #ahee4 ,we remained near a small hill1 called ,maundo1 where we began to be frequently invited by the honey-guide 7',cuculus indicator'74 ,wishing to ascertain the truth of the native assertion that this bird is a deceiver1 and by its call sometimes leads to a wild beast and not to honey1 ,i inquired if any of my men had ever been led by this friendly little bird to any thing else than what its name implies4 ,only one of the #aad could say he had been led to an elephant instead of a hive1 like myself with the black rhinoceros mentioned before4 ,i am quite convinced that the majority of people who commit themselves to its guidance are led to honey1 and to it alone4 ,on the #c;d we crossed the ,river ,mozuma1 or ,river of ,dila1 having traveled through a beautifully undulating pastoral country4 ,to the south1 and a little east of this1 stands the hill ,taba ,cheu1 or ,white ,mountain1 from a mass of white rock1 probably dolomite1 on its top4 ,but none of the hills are of any great altitude4 ,when ,i heard this mountain described at ,linyanti ,i thought the glistening substance might be snow1 and my informants were so loud in their assertions of its exceeding great altitude that ,i was startled with the idea2 but ,i had quite forgotten that ,i was speaking with men who had been accustomed to plains1 and knew nothing of very high mountains4 ,when ,i inquired what the white substance was1 they at once replied it was a kind of rock4 ,i expected to have come nearer to it1 and would have ascended it2 but we were led to go to the northeast4 ,yet ,i doubt not that the native testimony of its being stone is true4 ,the distant ranges of hills which line the banks of the ,zambesi on the southeast1 and landscapes which permit the eye to range over twenty or thirty miles at a time1 with short grass under our feet1 were especially refreshing sights to those who had traveled for months together over the confined views of the flat forest1 and among the tangled rank herbage of the great valley4 ,the ,mozuma1 or ,river of ,dila1 was the first water-course which indicated that we were now on the slopes toward the eastern coast4 ,it contained no flowing water1 but revealed in its banks what gave me great pleasure at the time--pieces of lignite1 possibly indicating the existence of a mineral1 namely1 coal1 the want of which in the central country ,i had always deplored4 ,again and again we came to the ruins of large towns1 containing the only hieroglyphics of this country1 worn mill-stones1 with the round ball of quartz with which the grinding was effected4 ,great numbers of these balls were lying about1 showing that the depopulation had been the result of war2 for1 had the people removed in peace1 they would have taken the balls with them4 ,at the ,river of ,dila we saw the spot where ,sebituane lived1 and ,sekwebu pointed out the heaps of bones of cattle which the ,makololo had been obliged to slaughter after performing a march with great herds captured from the ,batoka through a patch of the fatal tsetse4 ,when ,sebituane saw the symptoms of the poison1 he gave orders to his people to eat the cattle4 ,he still had vast numbers2 and when the ,matebele1 crossing the ,zambesi opposite this part1 came to attack him1 he invited the ,batoka to take repossession of their herds1 he having so many as to be unable to guide them in their flight4 ,the country was at that time exceedingly rich in cattle1 and1 besides pasturage1 it is all well adapted for the cultivation of native produce4 ,being on the eastern slope of the ridge1 it receives more rain than any part of the westward4 ,sekwebu had been instructed to point out to me the advantages of this position for a settlement1 as that which all the ,makololo had never ceased to regret4 ,it needed no eulogy from ,sekwebu2 ,i admired it myself1 and the enjoyment of good health in fine open scenery had an exhilarating effect on my spirits4 ,the great want was population1 the ,batoka having all taken refuge in the hills4 ,we were now in the vicinity of those whom the ,makololo deem rebels1 and felt some anxiety as to how we should be received4 ,on the #dth we reached their first village4 ,remaining at a distance of a quarter of a mile1 we sent two men to inform them who we were1 and that our purposes were peaceful4 ,the head man came and spoke civilly1 but1 when nearly dark1 the people of another village arrived and behaved very differently4 ,they began by trying to spear a young man who had gone for water4 ,then they approached us1 and one came forward howling at the top of his voice in the most hideous manner2 his eyes were shot out1 his lips covered with foam1 and every muscle of his frame quivered4 ,he came near to me1 and1 having a small battle-axe in his hand1 alarmed my men lest he might do violence2 but they were afraid to disobey my previous orders1 and to follow their own inclination by knocking him on the head4 ,i felt a little alarmed too1 but would not show fear before my own people or strangers1 and kept a sharp look-out on the little battle-axe4 ,it seemed to me a case of ecstasy or prophetic phrensy1 voluntarily produced4 ,i felt it would be a sorry way to leave the world1 to get my head chopped by a mad savage1 though that1 perhaps1 would be preferable to hydrophobia or delirium tremens4 ,sekwebu took a spear in his hand1 as if to pierce a bit of leather1 but in reality to plunge it into the man if he offered violence to me4 ,after my courage had been sufficiently tested1 ,i beckoned with the head to the civil head man to remove him1 and he did so by drawing him aside4 ,this man pretended not to know what he was doing4 ,i would fain have felt his pulse1 to ascertain whether the violent trembling were not feigned1 but had not much inclination to go near the battle-axe again4 ,there was1 however1 a flow of perspiration1 and the excitement continued fully half an hour1 then gradually ceased4 ,this paroxysm is the direct opposite of hypnotism1 and it is singular that it has not been tried in ,europe as well as clairvoyance4 ,this second batch of visitors took no pains to conceal their contempt for our small party1 saying to each other1 in a tone of triumph1 ,they are quite a ,godsend6 literally1 ,god has apportioned them to us4 ,they are lost among the tribes6 ,they have wandered in order to be destroyed1 and what can they do without shields among so many8 ,some of them asked if there were no other parties4 ,sekeletu had ordered my men not to take their shields1 as in the case of my first company4 ,we were looked upon as unarmed1 and an easy prey4 ,we prepared against a night attack by discharging and reloading our guns1 which were exactly the same in number 7five7 as on the former occasion1 as ,i allowed my late companions to retain those which ,i purchased at ,loanda4 ,we were not molested1 but some of the enemy tried to lead us toward the ,bashukulompo1 who are considered to be the fiercest race in this quarter4 ,as we knew our direction to the confluence of the ,kafue and ,zambesi1 we declined their guidance1 and the civil head man of the evening before then came along with us4 ,crowds of natives hovered round us in the forest2 but he ran forward and explained1 and we were not molested4 ,that night we slept by a little village under a low range of hills1 which are called ,chizamena4 ,the country here is more woody than on the high lands we had left1 but the trees are not in general large4 ,great numbers of them have been broken off by elephants a foot or two from the ground3 they thus seem pollarded from that point4 ,this animal never seriously lessens the number of trees2 indeed1 ,i have often been struck by the very little damage he does in a forest4 ,his food consists more of bulbs1 tubers1 roots1 and branches1 than any thing else4 ,where they have been feeding1 great numbers of trees1 as thick as a man's body1 are seen twisted down or broken off1 in order that they may feed on the tender shoots at the tops4 ,they are said sometimes to unite in wrenching down large trees4 ,the natives in the interior believe that the elephant never touches grass1 and ,i never saw evidence of his having grazed until we came near to ,tete1 and then he had fed on grass in seed only2 this seed contains so much farinaceous matter that the natives collect it for their own food4 ,this part of the country abounds in ant-hills4 ,in the open parts they are studded over the surface exactly as haycocks are in harvest1 or heaps of manure in spring1 rather disfiguring the landscape4 ,in the woods they are as large as round haystacks1 #dj or #ej feet in diameter at the base1 and at least #bj feet high4 ,these are more fertile than the rest of the land1 and here they are the chief garden-ground for maize1 pumpkins1 and tobacco4 ,when we had passed the outskirting villages1 which alone consider themselves in a state of war with the ,makololo1 we found the ,batoka1 or ,batonga1 as they here call themselves1 quite friendly4 ,great numbers of them came from all the surrounding villages with presents of maize and masuka1 and expressed great joy at the first appearance of a white man1 and harbinger of peace4 ,the women clothe themselves better than the ,balonda1 but the men go 'in puris naturalibus'4 ,they walk about without the smallest sense of shame4 ,they have even lost the tradition of the fig-leaf4 ,i asked a fine1 large-bodied old man if he did not think it would be better to adopt a little covering4 ,he looked with a pitying leer1 and laughed with surprise at my thinking him at all indecent2 he evidently considered himself above such weak superstition4 ,i told them that1 on my return1 ,i should have my family with me1 and no one must come near us in that state4 ,what shall we put on8 we have no clothing4 ,it was considered a good joke when ,i told them that1 if they had nothing else1 they must put on a bunch of grass4 ,the farther we advanced1 the more we found the country swarming with inhabitants4 ,great numbers came to see the white man1 a sight they had never beheld before4 ,they always brought presents of maize and masuka4 ,their mode of salutation is quite singular4 ,they throw themselves on their backs on the ground1 and1 rolling from side to side1 slap the outside of their thighs as expressions of thankfulness and welcome1 uttering the words ,kina bomba4 ,this method of salutation was to me very disagreeable1 and ,i never could get reconciled to it4 ,i called out1 ,stop1 stop2 ,i don't want that2 but they1 imagining ,i was dissatisfied1 only tumbled about more furiously1 and slapped their thighs with greater vigor4 ,the men being totally unclothed1 this performance imparted to my mind a painful sense of their extreme degradation4 ,my own ,batoka were much more degraded than the ,barotse1 and more reckless4 ,we had to keep a strict watch1 so as not to be involved by their thieving from the inhabitants1 in whose country and power we were4 ,we had also to watch the use they made of their tongues1 for some within hearing of the villagers would say1 ,i broke all the pots of that village1 or1 ,i killed a man there4 ,they were eager to recount their soldier deeds1 when they were in company with the ,makololo in former times as a conquering army4 ,they were thus placing us in danger by their remarks4 ,i called them together1 and spoke to them about their folly1 and gave them a pretty plain intimation that ,i meant to insist upon as complete subordination as ,i had secured in my former journey1 as being necessary for the safety of the party4 ,happily1 it never was needful to resort to any other measure for their obedience1 as they all believed that ,i would enforce it4 ,in connection with the low state of the ,batoka1 ,i was led to think on the people of ,kuruman1 who were equally degraded and equally depraved4 ,there a man scorned to shed a tear4 ,it would have been tlolo1 or transgression4 ,weeping1 such as ,dr4 ,kane describes among the ,esquimaux1 is therefore quite unknown in that country4 ,but ,i have witnessed instances like this3 ,baba1 a mighty hunter--the interpreter who accompanied ,captain ,harris1 and who was ultimately killed by a rhinoceros--sat listening to the ,gospel in the church at ,kuruman1 and the gracious words of ,christ1 made to touch his heart1 evidently by the ,holy ,spirit1 melted him into tears2 ,i have seen him and others sink down to the ground weeping4 ,when ,baba was lying mangled by the furious beast which tore him off his horse1 he shed no tear1 but quietly prayed as long as he was conscious4 ,i had no hand in his instruction3 if these ,batoka ever become like him1 and they may1 the influence that effects it must be divine4 ,a very large portion of this quarter is covered with masuka-trees1 and the ground was so strewed with the pleasant fruit that my men kept eating it constantly as we marched along4 ,we saw a smaller kind of the same tree1 named ,molondo1 the fruit of which is about the size of marbles1 having a tender skin1 and slight acidity of taste mingled with its sweetness4 ,another tree which is said to yield good fruit is named ,sombo1 but it was not ripe at this season4 ,,december #f,,th4 ,we passed the night near a series of villages4 ,before we came to a stand under our tree1 a man came running to us with hands and arms firmly bound with cords behind his back1 entreating me to release him4 ,when ,i had dismounted1 the head man of the village advanced1 and ,i inquired the prisoner's offense4 ,he stated that he had come from the ,bashukulompo as a fugitive1 and he had given him a wife and garden and a supply of seed2 but1 on refusing a demand for more1 the prisoner had threatened to kill him1 and had been seen the night before skulking about the village1 apparently with that intention4 ,i declined interceding unless he would confess to his father-in-law1 and promise amendment4 ,he at first refused to promise to abstain from violence1 but afterward agreed4 ,the father-in-law then said that he would take him to the village and release him1 but the prisoner cried out bitterly1 ,he will kill me there2 don't leave me1 white man4 ,i ordered a knife1 and one of the villagers released him on the spot4 ,his arms were cut by the cords1 and he was quite lame from the blows he had received4 ,these villagers supplied us abundantly with ground-nuts1 maize1 and corn4 ,all expressed great satisfaction on hearing my message1 as ,i directed their attention to ,jesus as their ,savior1 whose word is ,peace on earth1 and good-will to men4 ,they called out1 ,we are tired of flight2 give us rest and sleep4 ,they of course did not understand the full import of the message1 but it was no wonder that they eagerly seized the idea of peace4 ,their country has been visited by successive scourges during the last half century1 and they are now a nation scattered and peeled4 ,when ,sebituane came1 the cattle were innumerable1 and yet these were the remnants only1 left by a chief called ,pingola1 who came from the northeast4 ,he swept across the whole territory inhabited by his cattle-loving countrymen1 devouring oxen1 cows1 and calves1 without retaining a single head4 ,he seems to have been actuated by a simple love of conquest1 and is an instance of what has occurred two or three times in every century in this country1 from time immemorial4 ,a man or more energy or ambition than his fellows rises up and conquers a large territory1 but as soon as he dies the power he built up is gone1 and his reign1 having been one of terror1 is not perpetuated4 ,this1 and the want of literature1 have prevented the establishment of any great empire in the interior of ,africa4 ,pingola effected his conquests by carrying numbers of smith's bellows with him4 ,the arrow-heads were heated before shooting into a town1 and when a wound was inflicted on either man or beast1 great confusion ensued4 ,after ,pingola came ,sebituane1 and after him the ,matebele of ,mosilikatse2 and these successive inroads have reduced the ,batoka to a state in which they naturally rejoice at the prospect of deliverance and peace4 ,we spent ,sunday1 the #ajth1 at ,monze's village1 who is considered the chief of all the ,batoka we have seen4 ,he lives near the hill ,kisekise1 whence we have a view of at least thirty miles of open undulating country1 covered with short grass1 and having but few trees4 ,these open lawns would in any other land1 as well as this1 be termed pastoral1 but the people have now no cattle1 and only a few goats and fowls4 ,they are located all over the country in small villages1 and cultivate large gardens4 ,they are said to have adopted this wide-spread mode of habitation in order to give alarm should any enemy appear4 ,in former times they lived in large towns4 ,in the distance 7southeast7 we see ranges of dark mountains along the banks of the ,zambesi1 and are told of the existence there of the rapid named ,kansala1 which is said to impede the navigation4 ,the river is reported to be placid above that as far as the territory of ,sinamane1 a ,batoka chief1 who is said to command it after it emerges smooth again below the falls4 ,kansala is the only rapid reported in the river until we come to ,kebrabasa1 twenty or thirty miles above ,tete4 ,on the north we have mountains appearing above the horizon1 which are said to be on the banks of the ,kafue4 ,the chief ,monze came to us on ,sunday morning1 wrapped in a large cloth1 and rolled himself about in the dust1 screaming ,kina bomba1 as they all do4 ,the sight of great naked men wallowing on the ground1 though intended to do me honor1 was always very painful2 it made me feel thankful that my lot had been cast in such different circumstances from that of so many of my fellow-men4 ,one of his wives accompanied him2 she would have been comely if her teeth had been spared2 she had a little battle-axe in her hand1 and helped her husband to scream4 ,she was much excited1 for she had never seen a white man before4 ,we rather liked ,monze1 for he soon felt at home among us1 and kept up conversation during much of the day4 ,one head man of a village after another arrived1 and each of them supplied us liberally with maize1 ground-nuts1 and corn4 ,monze gave us a goat and a fowl1 and appeared highly satisfied with a present of some handkerchiefs ,i had got in my supplies left at the island4 ,being of printed cotton1 they excited great admiration2 and when ,i put a gaudy-colored one as a shawl about his child1 he said that he would send for all his people to make a dance about it4 ,in telling them that my object was to open up a path whereby they might1 by getting merchandise for ivory1 avoid the guilt of selling their children1 ,i asked ,monze1 with about #aej of his men1 if they would like a white man to live among them and teach them4 ,all expressed high satisfaction at the prospect of the white man and his path3 they would protect both him and his property4 ,i asked the question1 because it would be of great importance to have stations in this healthy region1 whither agents oppressed by sickness might retire1 and which would serve1 moreover1 as part of a chain of communication between the interior and the coast4 ,the answer does not mean much more than what ,i know1 by other means1 to be the case--that a white man ,,of ,,good ,,sense would be welcome and safe in all these parts4 ,by uprightness1 and laying himself out for the good of the people1 he would be known all over the country as a ,,benefactor of the race4 ,none desire ,christian instruction1 for of it they have no idea4 ,but the people are now humbled by the scourgings they have received1 and seem to be in a favorable state for the reception of the ,gospel4 ,the gradual restoration of their former prosperity in cattle1 simultaneously with instruction1 would operate beneficially upon their minds4 ,the language is a dialect of the other negro languages in the great valley2 and as many of the ,batoka living under the ,makololo understand both it and the ,sichuana1 missionaries could soon acquire it through that medium4 ,monze had never been visited by any white man1 but had seen black native traders1 who1 he said1 came for ivory1 not for slaves4 ,he had heard of white men passing far to the east of him to ,cazembe1 referring1 no doubt1 to ,pereira1 ,lacerda1 and others1 who have visited that chief4 ,the streams in this part are not perennial2 ,i did not observe one suitable for the purpose of irrigation4 ,there is but little wood2 here and there you see large single trees1 or small clumps of evergreens1 but the abundance of maize and ground-nuts we met with shows that more rain falls than in the ,bechuana country1 for there they never attempt to raise maize except in damp hollows on the banks of rivers4 ,the pasturage is very fine for both cattle and sheep4 ,my own men1 who know the land thoroughly1 declare that it is all garden-ground together1 and that the more tender grains1 which require richer soil than the native corn1 need no care here4 ,it is seldom stony4 ,the men of a village came to our encampment1 and1 as they followed the ,bashukulompo mode of dressing their hair1 we had an opportunity of examining it for the first time4 ,a circle of hair at the top of the head1 eight inches or more in diameter1 is woven into a cone eight or ten inches high1 with an obtuse apex1 bent1 in some cases1 a little forward1 giving it somewhat the appearance of a helmet4 ,some have only a cone1 four or five inches in diameter at the base4 ,it is said that the hair of animals is added2 but the sides of the cone are woven something like basket-work4 ,the head man of this village1 instead of having his brought to a point1 had it prolonged into a wand1 which extended a full yard from the crown of his head4 ,the hair on the forehead1 above the ears1 and behind1 is all shaven off1 so they appear somewhat as if a cap of liberty were cocked upon the top of the head4 ,after the weaving is performed it is said to be painful1 as the scalp is drawn tightly up2 but they become used to it4 ,monze informed me that all his people were formerly ornamented in this way1 but he discouraged it4 ,i wished him to discourage the practice of knocking out the teeth too1 but he smiled1 as if in that case the fashion would be too strong for him1 as it was for ,sebituane4 ,monze came on ,monday morning1 and1 on parting1 presented us with a piece of a buffalo which had been killed the day before by lions4 ,we crossed the rivulet ,makoe1 which runs westward into the ,kafue1 and went northward in order to visit ,semalembue1 an influential chief there4 ,we slept at the village of ,monze's sister1 who also passes by the same name4 ,both he and his sister are feminine in their appearance1 but disfigured by the foolish custom of knocking out the upper front teeth4 ,it is not often that jail-birds turn out well1 but the first person who appeared to welcome us at the village of ,monze's sister was the prisoner we had released in the way4 ,he came with a handsome present of corn and meal1 and1 after praising our kindness to the villagers who had assembled around us1 asked them1 ,what do you stand gazing at8 ,don't you know that they have mouths like other people8 ,he then set off and brought large bundles of grass and wood for our comfort1 and a pot to cook our food in4 ,,december #ab,,th4 ,the morning presented the appearance of a continuous rain from the north1 the first time we had seen it set in from that quarter in such a southern latitude4 ,in the ,bechuana country1 continuous rains are always from the northeast or east1 while in ,londa and ,angola they are from the north4 ,at ,pungo ,andongo1 for instance1 the whitewash is all removed from the north side of the houses4 ,it cleared up1 however1 about midday1 and ,monze's sister conducted us a mile or two upon the road4 ,on parting1 she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village to send food to the point where we should sleep4 ,in expressing her joy at the prospect of living in peace1 she said it would be so pleasant to sleep without dreaming of any one pursuing them with a spear4 ,in our front we had ranges of hills called ,chamai1 covered with trees4 ,we crossed the rivulet ,nakachinta1 flowing westward into the ,kafue1 and then passed over ridges of rocks of the same mica schist which we found so abundant in ,golungo ,alto2 here they were surmounted by reddish porphyry and finely laminated felspathic grit with trap4 ,the dip1 however1 of these rocks is not toward the centre of the continent1 as in ,angola1 for ever since we passed the masses of granite on the ,kalomo1 the rocks1 chiefly of mica schist1 dip away from them1 taking an easterly direction4 ,a decided change of dip occurs again when we come near the ,zambesi1 as will be noticed farther on4 ,the hills which flank that river now appeared on our right as a high dark range1 while those near the ,kafue have the aspect of a low blue range1 with openings between4 ,we crossed two never-failing rivulets also flowing into the ,kafue4 ,the country is very fertile1 but vegetation is nowhere rank4 ,the boiling-point of water being #bjd ,deg41 showed that we were not yet as low down as ,linyanti2 but we had left the masuka-trees behind us1 and many others with which we had become familiar4 ,a feature common to the forests of ,angola and ,benguela1 namely1 the presence of orchilla-weed and lichens on the trees1 with mosses on the ground1 began to appear2 but we never1 on any part of the eastern slope1 saw the abundant crops of ferns which are met with every where in ,angola4 ,the orchilla-weed and mosses1 too1 were in but small quantities4 ,as we passed along1 the people continued to supply us with food in great abundance4 ,they had by some means or other got a knowledge that ,i carried medicine1 and1 somewhat to the disgust of my men1 who wished to keep it all to themselves1 brought their sick children for cure4 ,some of them ,i found had hooping-cough1 which is one of the few epidemics that range through this country4 ,in passing through the woods ,i for the first time heard the bird called ,mokwa reza1 or ,son-in-law of ,god 7,micropogon sulphuratus871 utter its cry1 which is supposed by the natives to be pula1 pula 7rain1 rain74 ,it is said to do this only before heavy falls of rain4 ,it may be a cuckoo1 for it is said to throw out the eggs of the white-backed ,senegal crow1 and lay its own instead4 ,this1 combined with the cry for rain1 causes the bird to be regarded with favor4 ,the crow1 on the other hand1 has a bad repute1 and1 when rain is withheld1 its nest is sought for and destroyed1 in order to dissolve the charm by which it is supposed to seal up the windows of heaven4 ,all the other birds now join in full chorus in the mornings1 and two of them1 at least1 have fine loud notes4 ,chapter #bh4 ,beautiful ,valley--,buffalo--,my young ,men kill two ,elephants--,the ,hunt--,mode of measuring ,height of live ,elephants--,wild ,animals smaller here than in the ,south1 though their ,food is more abundant--,the ,elephant a dainty ,feeder--,semalembue--,his ,presents--,joy in prospect of living in ,peace--,trade--,his ,people's way of wearing their ,hair--,their ,mode of ,salutation--,old ,encampment--,sebituane's former ,residence--,ford of ,kafue--,hippopotami--,hills and ,villages--,geological ,formation-- ,prodigious ,quantities of large ,game--,their ,tameness--,rains--,less ,sickness than in the ,journey to ,loanda--,reason--,charge from an ,elephant--,vast ,amount of animal ,life on the ,zambesi--,water of ,river discolored--,an ,island with ,buffaloes and ,men on it--,native ,devices for killing ,game--,tsetse now in ,country--,agricultural ,industry--,an ,albino murdered by his ,mother--,guilty of ,tlolo--,women who make their ,mouths like those of ,ducks--,first ,symptom of the ,slave-trade on this side--,selole's ,hostility--,an armed ,party hoaxed--,an ,italian ,marauder slain--,elephant's ,tenacity of ,life--,a ,word to young ,sportsmen-- ,mr4 ,oswell's ,adventure with an ,elephant2 narrow ,escape--,mburuma's ,village--,suspicious ,conduct of his ,people--,guides attempt to detain us--,the ,village and ,people of ,ma ,mburuma--,character our ,guides give of us4 #ac,,th4 ,the country is becoming very beautiful1 and furrowed by deep valleys2 the underlying rocks1 being igneous1 have yielded fertile soil4 ,there is great abundance of large game4 ,the buffaloes select open spots1 and often eminences1 as standing-places through the day4 ,we crossed the ,mbai1 and found in its bed rocks of pink marble4 ,some little hills near it are capped by marble of beautiful whiteness1 the underlying rock being igneous4 ,violent showers occur frequently on the hills1 and cause such sudden sweeping floods in these rivulets1 that five of our men1 who had gone to the other side for firewood1 were obliged to swim back4 ,the temperature of the air is lowered considerably by the daily rains4 ,several times the thermometer at sunrise has been as low as #fh ,deg41 and #gd ,deg4 at sunset4 ,generally1 however1 it stood at from #gb ,deg4 to #gd ,deg4 at sunrise1 #ij ,deg4 to #if ,deg4 at midday1 and #hj ,deg4 to #hd ,deg4 at sunset4 ,the sensation1 however1 as before remarked1 was not disagreeable4 #ad,,th4 ,we entered a most beautiful valley1 abounding in large game4 ,finding a buffalo lying down1 ,i went to secure him for our food4 ,three balls did not kill him1 and1 as he turned round as if for a charge1 we ran for the shelter of some rocks4 ,before we gained them1 we found that three elephants1 probably attracted by the strange noise1 had cut off our retreat on that side2 they1 however1 turned short off1 and allowed us to gain the rocks4 ,we then saw that the buffalo was moving off quite briskly1 and1 in order not to be entirely balked1 ,i tried a long shot at the last of the elephants1 and1 to the great joy of my people1 broke his fore leg4 ,the young men soon brought him to a stand1 and one shot in the brain dispatched him4 ,i was right glad to see the joy manifested at such an abundant supply of meat4 ,on the following day1 while my men were cutting up the elephant1 great numbers of the villagers came to enjoy the feast4 ,we were on the side of a fine green valley1 studded here and there with trees1 and cut by numerous rivulets4 ,i had retired from the noise1 to take an observation among some rocks of laminated grit1 when ,i beheld an elephant and her calf at the end of the valley1 about two miles distant4 ,the calf was rolling in the mud1 and the dam was standing fanning herself with her great ears4 ,as ,i looked at them through my glass1 ,i saw a long string of my own men appearing on the other side of them1 and ,sekwebu came and told me that these had gone off saying1 ,our father will see to-day what sort of men he has got4 ,i then went higher up the side of the valley1 in order to have a distinct view of their mode of hunting4 ,the goodly beast1 totally unconscious of the approach of an enemy1 stood for some time suckling her young one1 which seemed about two years old2 they then went into a pit containing mud1 and smeared themselves all over with it1 the little one frisking about his dam1 flapping his ears and tossing his trunk incessantly1 in elephantine fashion4 ,she kept flapping her ears and wagging her tail1 as if in the height of enjoyment4 ,then began the piping of her enemies1 which was performed by blowing into a tube1 or the hands closed together1 as boys do into a key4 ,they call out to attract the animal's attention1 ,o chief6 chief6 we have come to kill you4 ,o chief6 chief6 many more will die besides you1 etc4 ,the gods have said it1 etc41 etc4 ,both animals expanded their ears and listened1 then left their bath as the crowd rushed toward them4 ,the little one ran forward toward the end of the valley1 but1 seeing the men there1 returned to his dam4 ,she placed herself on the danger side of her calf1 and passed her proboscis over it again and again1 as if to assure it of safety4 ,she frequently looked back to the men1 who kept up an incessant shouting1 singing1 and piping2 then looked at her young one and ran after it1 sometimes sideways1 as if her feelings were divided between anxiety to protect her offspring and desire to revenge the temerity of her persecutors4 ,the men kept about a hundred yards in her rear1 and some that distance from her flanks1 and continued thus until she was obliged to cross a rivulet4 ,the time spent in descending and getting up the opposite bank allowed of their coming up to the edge1 and discharging their spears at about twenty yards distance4 ,after the first discharge she appeared with her sides red with blood1 and1 beginning to flee for her own life1 seemed to think no more of her young4 ,i had previously sent off ,sekwebu with orders to spare the calf4 ,it ran very fast1 but neither young nor old ever enter into a gallop2 their quickest pace is only a sharp walk4 ,before ,sekwebu could reach them1 the calf had taken refuge in the water1 and was killed4 ,the pace of the dam gradually became slower4 ,she turned with a shriek of rage1 and made a furious charge back among the men4 ,they vanished at right angles to her course1 or sideways1 and1 as she ran straight on1 she went through the whole party1 but came near no one except a man who wore a piece of cloth on his shoulders4 ,bright clothing is always dangerous in these cases4 ,she charged three or four times1 and1 except in the first instance1 never went farther than #ajj yards4 ,she often stood after she had crossed a rivulet1 and faced the men1 though she received fresh spears4 ,it was by this process of spearing and loss of blood that she was killed2 for at last1 making a short charge1 she staggered round and sank down dead in a kneeling posture4 ,i did not see the whole hunt1 having been tempted away by both sun and moon appearing unclouded4 ,i turned from the spectacle of the destruction of noble animals1 which might be made so useful in ,africa1 with a feeling of sickness1 and it was not relieved by the recollection that the ivory was mine1 though that was the case4 ,i regretted to see them killed1 and more especially the young one1 the meat not being at all necessary at that time2 but it is right to add that ,i did not feel sick when my own blood was up the day before4 ,we ought1 perhaps1 to judge those deeds more leniently in which we ourselves have no temptation to engage4 ,had ,i not been previously guilty of doing the very same thing1 ,i might have prided myself on superior humanity when ,i experienced the nausea in viewing my men kill these two4 ,the elephant first killed was a male1 not full grown2 his height at the withers1 #h feet #d inches2 circumference of the fore foot1 #dd inches 99 #b #g feet #d inches4 ,the female was full grown1 and measured in height #h feet #h inches2 circumference of the fore foot1 #dh inches 99 #b #h feet 7#if inches74 ,we afterward found that full-grown male elephants of this region ranged in height at the withers from #i feet #i inches to #i feet #aj inches1 and the circumference of the fore foot to be #d feet #i-a_/b inches 99 #b #i feet #g inches4 ,these details are given because the general rule has been observed that twice the circumference of the impression made by the fore foot on the ground is the height of the animal4 ,the print on the ground1 being a little larger than the foot itself1 would thus seem to be an accurate mode of measuring the size of any elephant that has passed2 but the above measurements show that it is applicable only to full-grown animals4 ,the greater size of the ,african elephant in the south would at once distinguish it from the ,indian one2 but here they approach more nearly to each other in bulk1 a female being about as large as a common ,indian male4 ,but the ear of the ,african is an external mark which no one will mistake even in a picture4 ,that of the female now killed was #d feet #e inches in depth1 and #d feet in horizontal breadth4 ,i have seen a native creep under one so as to be quite covered from the rain4 ,the ear of the ,indian variety is not more than a third of this size4 ,the representation of elephants on ancient coins shows that this important characteristic was distinctly recognized of old4 ,indeed1 ,cuvier remarked that it was better known by ,aristotle than by ,buffon4 ,having been anxious to learn whether the ,african elephant is capable of being tamed1 through the kindness of my friend ,admiral ,smythe ,i am enabled to give the reader conclusive evidence on this point4 ,in the two medals furnished from his work1 ,a descriptive ,catalogue of his ,cabinet of ,roman and ,imperial large brass ,medals1 the size of the ears will be at once noted as those of the true ,african elephant499 ,they were even more docile than the ,asiatic1 and were taught various feats1 as walking on ropes1 dancing1 etc4 ,one of the coins is of ,faustina senior1 the other of ,severus the ,seventh1 and struck ,a4,d4 #aig4 ,these elephants were brought from ,africa to ,rome4 ,the attempt to tame this most useful animal has never been made at the ,cape1 nor has one ever been exhibited in ,england4 ,there is only one very young calf of the species in the ,british ,museum4 99 ,unfortunately these illustrations can not be presented in this ,,ascii text4 ,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,the abundance of food in this country1 as compared with the south1 would lead one to suppose that animals here must attain a much greater size2 but actual measurement now confirms the impression made on my mind by the mere sight of the animals1 that those in the districts north of #bj ,deg4 were smaller than the same races existing southward of that latitude4 ,the first time that ,mr4 ,oswell and myself saw full-grown male elephants on the ,river ,zouga1 they seemed no larger than the females 7which are always smaller than males7 we had met on the ,limpopo4 ,there they attain a height of upward of #ab feet4 ,at the ,zouga the height of one ,i measured was #aa feet #d inches1 and in this district #i feet #aj inches4 ,there is1 however1 an increase in the size of the tusks as we approach the equator4 ,unfortunately1 ,i never made measurements of other animals in the south2 but the appearance of the animals themselves in the north at once produced the impression on my mind referred to as to their decrease in size4 ,when we first saw koodoos1 they were so much smaller than those we had been accustomed to in the south that we doubted whether they were not a new kind of antelope2 and the leche1 seen nowhere south of #bj ,deg41 is succeeded by the poku as we go north4 ,this is1 in fact1 only a smaller species of that antelope1 with a more reddish color4 ,a great difference in size prevails also among domestic animals2 but the influence of locality on them is not so well marked4 ,the cattle of the ,batoka1 for instance1 are exceedingly small and very beautiful1 possessing generally great breadth between the eyes and a very playful disposition4 ,they are much smaller than the aboriginal cattle in the south2 but it must be added that those of the ,barotse valley1 in the same latitudes as the ,batoka1 are large4 ,the breed may have come from the west1 as the cattle within the influence of the sea air1 as at ,little ,fish ,bay1 ,benguela1 ,ambriz1 and along that coast1 are very large4 ,those found at ,lake ,ngami1 with large horns and standing six feet high1 probably come from the same quarter4 ,the goats are also small1 and domestic fowls throughout this country are of a very small size1 and even dogs1 except where the inhabitants have had an opportunity of improving the breed by importation from the ,portuguese4 ,as the ,barotse cattle are an exception to this general rule1 so are the ,barotse dogs1 for they are large1 savage-looking animals1 though in reality very cowardly4 ,it is a little remarkable that a decrease in size should occur where food is the most abundant2 but tropical climates seem unfavorable for the full development of either animals or man4 ,it is not from want of care in the breeding1 for the natives always choose the larger and stronger males for stock1 and the same arrangement prevails in nature1 for it is only by overcoming their weaker rivals that the wild males obtain possession of the herd4 ,invariably they show the scars received in battle4 ,the elephant we killed yesterday had an umbilical hernia as large as a child's head1 probably caused by the charge of a rival4 ,the cow showed scars received from men2 two of the wounds in her side were still unhealed1 and there was an orifice six inches long1 and open1 in her proboscis1 and1 as it was about a foot from the point1 it must have interfered with her power of lifting water4 ,in estimating the amount of food necessary for these and other large animals1 sufficient attention has not been paid to the kinds chosen4 ,the elephant1 for instance1 is a most dainty feeder1 and particularly fond of certain sweet-tasted trees and fruits4 ,he chooses the mohonono1 the mimosa1 and other trees which contain much saccharine matter1 mucilage1 and gum4 ,he may be seen putting his head to a lofty palmyra1 and swaying it to and fro to shake off the seeds2 he then picks them up singly and eats them4 ,or he may be seen standing by the masuka and other fruit-trees patiently picking off the sweet fruits one by one4 ,he also digs up bulbs and tubers1 but none of these are thoroughly digested4 ,bruce remarked upon the undigested bits of wood seen in their droppings1 and he must have observed1 too1 that neither leaves nor seeds are changed by passing through the alimentary canal4 ,the woody fibre of roots and branches is dropped in the state of tow1 the nutritious matter alone having been extracted4 ,this capability of removing all the nourishment1 and the selection of those kinds of food which contain great quantities of mucilage and gum1 accounts for the fact that herds of elephants produce but small effect upon the vegetation of a country--quality being more requisite than quantity4 ,the amount of internal fat found in them makes them much prized by the inhabitants1 who are all very fond of it1 both for food and ointment4 ,after leaving the elephant valley we passed through a very beautiful country1 but thinly inhabited by man4 ,the underlying rock is trap1 and dikes of talcose gneiss4 ,the trap is often seen tilted on its edge1 or dipping a little either to the north or south4 ,the strike is generally to the northeast1 the direction we are going4 ,about ,losito we found the trap had given place to hornblende schist1 mica schist1 and various schorly rocks4 ,we had now come into the region in which the appearance of the rocks conveys the impression of a great force having acted along the bed of the ,zambesi4 ,indeed1 ,i was led to the belief from seeing the manner in which the rocks have been thrust away on both sides from its bed1 that the power which formed the crack of the falls had given direction to the river below1 and opened a bed for it all the way from the falls to beyond the gorge of ,lupata4 ,passing the rivulet ,losito1 and through the ranges of hills1 we reached the residence of ,semalembue on the #ahth4 ,his village is situated at the bottom of ranges through which the ,kafue finds a passage1 and close to the bank of that river4 ,the ,kafue1 sometimes called ,kahowhe or ,bashukulompo ,river1 is upward of two hundred yards wide here1 and full of hippopotami1 the young of which may be seen perched on the necks of their dams4 ,at this point we had reached about the same level as ,linyanti4 ,semalembue paid us a visit soon after our arrival1 and said that he had often heard of me1 and now that he had the pleasure of seeing me1 he feared that ,i should sleep the first night at his village hungry4 ,this was considered the handsome way of introducing a present1 for he then handed five or six baskets of meal and maize1 and an enormous one of ground-nuts4 ,next morning he gave me about twenty baskets more of meal4 ,i could make but a poor return for his kindness1 but he accepted my apologies politely1 saying that he knew there were no goods in the country from which ,i had come1 and1 in professing great joy at the words of peace ,i spoke1 he said1 ,now ,i shall cultivate largely1 in the hope of eating and sleeping in peace4 ,it is noticeable that all whom we have yet met eagerly caught up the idea of living in peace as the probable effect of the ,gospel4 ,they require no explanation of the existence of the ,deity4 ,sekwebu makes use of the term ,reza1 and they appear to understand at once4 ,like negroes in general1 they have a strong tendency to worship1 and ,i heard that ,semalembue gets a good deal of ivory from the surrounding tribes on pretense of having some supernatural power4 ,he transmits this to some other chiefs on the ,zambesi1 and receives in return ,english cotton goods which come from ,mozambique by ,babisa traders4 ,my men here began to sell their beads and other ornaments for cotton cloth4 ,semalembue was accompanied by about forty people1 all large men4 ,they have much wool on their heads1 which is sometimes drawn all together up to the crown1 and tied there in a large tapering bunch4 ,the forehead and round by the ears is shaven close to the base of this tuft4 ,others draw out the hair on one side1 and twist it into little strings4 ,the rest is taken over1 and hangs above the ear1 which gives the appearance of having a cap cocked jauntily on the side of the head4 ,the mode of salutation is by clapping the hands4 ,various parties of women came from the surrounding villages to see the white man1 but all seemed very much afraid4 ,their fear1 which ,i seldom could allay1 made them1 when addressed1 clap their hands with increasing vigor4 ,sekwebu was the only one of the ,makololo who knew this part of the country2 and this was the region which to his mind was best adapted for the residence of a tribe4 ,the natives generally have a good idea of the nature of the soil and pasturage1 and ,sekwebu expatiated with great eloquence on the capabilities of this part for supplying the wants of the ,makololo4 ,there is certainly abundance of room at present in the country for thousands and thousands more of population4 ,we passed near the ,losito1 a former encampment of the ,matebele1 with whom ,sekwebu had lived4 ,at the sight of the bones of the oxen they had devoured1 and the spot where savage dances had taken place1 though all deserted now1 the poor fellow burst out into a wild ,matebele song4 ,he pointed out also a district1 about two days and a half west of ,semalembue1 where ,sebituane had formerly dwelt4 ,there is a hot fountain on the hills there named ,nakalombo1 which may be seen at a distance emitting steam4 ,there1 said ,sekwebu1 had your ,molekane 7,sebituane7 been alive1 he would have brought you to live with him4 ,you would be on the bank of the river1 and1 by taking canoes1 you would at once sail down to the ,zambesi1 and visit the white people at the sea4 ,this part is a favorite one with the ,makololo1 and probably it would be a good one in which to form a centre of civilization4 ,there is a large1 flat district of country to the north1 said to be peopled by the ,bashukulompo and other tribes1 who cultivate the ground to a great extent1 and raise vast quantities of grain1 ground-nuts1 sweet potatoes1 etc4 ,they also grow sugar-cane4 ,if they were certain of a market1 ,i believe they would not be unwilling to cultivate cotton too1 but they have not been accustomed to the peaceful pursuits of commerce4 ,all are fond of trade1 but they have been taught none save that in ivory and slaves4 ,the ,kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of ,semalembue2 as the hill on the north is called ,bolengwe1 ,i apply that name to the gorge 7lat4 #ae;d #dh' #ai ,s41 long4 #bh;d #bb' ,e474 ,semalembue said that he ought to see us over the river1 so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile south of his village1 and when we entered among the hills we found the ford of the ,kafue4 ,on parting with ,semalembue ,i put on him a shirt1 and he went away with it apparently much delighted4 ,the ford was at least #bej yards broad1 but rocky and shallow4 ,after crossing it in a canoe1 we went along the left bank1 and were completely shut in by high hills4 ,every available spot between the river and the hills is under cultivation2 and the residence of the people here is intended to secure safety for themselves and their gardens from their enemies2 there is plenty of garden-ground outside the hills2 here they are obliged to make pitfalls to protect the grain against the hippopotami4 ,as these animals had not been disturbed by guns1 they were remarkably tame1 and took no notice of our passing4 ,we again saw numbers of young ones1 not much larger than terrier dogs1 sitting on the necks of their dams1 the little saucy-looking heads cocking up between the old one's ears2 as they become a little older they sit on the withers4 ,needing meat1 we shot a full-grown cow1 and found1 as we had often done before1 the flesh to be very much like pork4 ,the height of this animal was #d feet #aj inches1 and from the point of the nose to the root of the tail #aj feet #f4 ,they seem quarrelsome1 for both males and females are found covered with scars1 and young males are often killed by the elder ones3 we met an instance of this near the falls4 ,we came to a great many little villages among the hills1 as if the inhabitants had reason to hide themselves from the observation of their enemies4 ,while detained cutting up the hippopotamus1 ,i ascended a hill called ,mabue asula 7stones smell badly71 and1 though not the highest in sight1 it was certainly not #ajj feet lower than the most elevated4 ,the boiling-point of water showed it to be about #ijj feet above the river1 which was of the level of ,linyanti4 ,these hills seemed to my men of prodigious altitude1 for they had been accustomed to ant-hills only4 ,the mention of mountains that pierced the clouds made them draw in their breath and hold their hands to their mouths4 ,and when ,i told them that their previous description of ,taba cheu had led me to expect something of the sort1 ,i found that the idea of a cloud-capped mountain had never entered into their heads4 ,the mountains certainly look high1 from having abrupt sides2 but ,i had recognized the fact by the point of ebullition of water1 that they are of a considerably lower altitude than the top of the ridge we had left4 ,they constitute1 in fact1 a sort of low fringe on the outside of the eastern ridge1 exactly as the 7apparently7 high mountains of ,angola 7,golungo ,alto7 form an outer low fringe to the western ridge4 ,i was much struck by the similarity of conformation and nature of the rocks on both sides of the continent2 but there is a difference in the structure of the subtending ridges1 as may be understood by the annexed ideal geological section4 99,the ,,ascii edition cannot include the drawing of the cross-section1 but the comments are included in full4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,,ideal ,,section ,,across ,,south ,,central ,,africa1 ,,intended ,,to ,,show ,,the ,,elevated ,,valley ,,form ,,of ,,that ,,portion ,,of ,,the ,,continent4 -------------------------------------- ,,west4 ,terrain ,remarks ,sea4 ,,calcareous ,,tufa4 ,,trap4 ,with modern shells1 and similar to those now found in the sea adjacent1 with strongly magnetic iron ore4 ,,mica ,,schist4 ,dipping ,east4 ,,sandstone 7like that of ,east ,africa74 ,the rocks ,pungo ,andongo4 of ,pungo ,andongo are a conglomerate of rounded shingle in ,rocks #djjj feet4 a matrix of sandstone1 and stand on horizontal sandstone1 on which fossil palms appear4 ,fault4 ,,red ,,shales ,,capped ,,by ,,ferruginous ,,conglomerate4 ,soft red shale or keele4 ,g #ejjj feet4 ,r ,water boils ,e at #bjb ,deg4 ,a ,on top1 ferruginous conglomerate2 below that1 red shale1 ,t #dejj feet4 with banks of gravel4 ,lake ,dilolo4 ,c ,,tufa ,,and ,,trap4 ,in ,londa1 the bottom of the valley ,e #bejj feet4 is formed of ferruginous conglomerate on the surface2 ,n ,lake ,ngami4 hardened sandstone1 with madrepore holes1 ,t banks of gravel1 and occasionally trap2 ,r south of #ab ,degrees1 large patches of soft ,a ,,tufa4 calcareous tufa1 with pebbles of jasper1 ,l agates1 c41 lie on various horizontal traps1 amygdaloids with analami and mesotype1 which is ,p burst through by basaltic rocks forming hills1 ,l and showing that the bottom of the valley ,a ,,radiated ,,zeolite4 consists of old silurian schists2 ,t there are also various granitic rocks ,e cropping through the trap4 ,a ,u ,,basaltic ,,rocks4 ,augitic porphyry and basalt1 4 with tufa over it4 ,place of ,great ,cataract4 ,,mica ,,schist4 ,white mica schist dipping west1 and gneiss4 #ejjj feet4 ,kalomo4 ,water boils ,,granite4 ,with black mica4 at #bjb ,deg4 ,,mica ,,schist4 ,white mica schist and white marble4 ,hill tops ,,trap4 ,hot fountain2 conical hills of igneous rocks1 #djjj feet4 containing much mica4 ,bottoms #cejj feet4 ,,mica ,,schist4 ,pink marble dolomite1 on hills of mica schist1 of various colours1 with trap1 schorl in gneiss1 kyanite or disthene gneissose mica in the schist4 #aejj ft4 ,,coal ,,in ,,sandstone4 ,specular and magnetic iron on various igneous rocks2 finely laminated porphyry2 granite2 hot fountain4 ,sandstone overlying coal2 trap dykes2 syenitic porphyry dykes2 black vesicular trap1 penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country1 converting it into porcellanite1 and partially crystallizing the coal4 ,on this sandstone lie fossil palms1 and coniferous trees converted into silica1 as on a similar rock in ,angola4 ,,compact ,,siliceous ,,schist4 ,,igneous ,,rocks4 ,trappean rocks1 with hot fountain4 ,,calcareous ,,tufa4 ,arkose1 or granitic grit1 with modern shells covered by calcareous tufa4 ,sea4 ,,east4 ,the heights are given as an approximation obtained from observing the boiling point of water1 they are drawn on a scale of #a_/aj of an inch per #ajjj feet in altitude4 ,the section is necessarily exaggerated in longitude1 as it was traversed in different latitudes1 the western side being in #h;d-#ab;d1 the eastern #ae;d-#ah;d ,s4 ,we can see from this hill five distinct ranges1 of which ,bolengo is the most westerly1 and ,komanga is the most easterly4 ,the second is named ,sekonkamena1 and the third ,funze4 ,very many conical hills appear among them1 and they are generally covered with trees4 ,on their tops we have beautiful white quartz rocks1 and some have a capping of dolomite4 ,on the west of the second range we have great masses of kyanite or disthene1 and on the flanks of the third and fourth a great deal of specular iron ore which is magnetic1 and containing a very large percentage of the metal4 ,the sides of these ranges are generally very precipitous1 and there are rivulets between which are not perennial4 ,many of the hills have been raised by granite1 exactly like that of the ,kalomo4 ,dikes of this granite may be seen thrusting up immense masses of mica schist and quartz or sandstone schist1 and making the strata fold over them on each side1 as clothes hung upon a line4 ,the uppermost stratum is always dolomite or bright white quartz4 ,semalembue intended that we should go a little to the northeast1 and pass through the people called ,babimpe1 and we saw some of that people1 who invited us to come that way on account of its being smoother2 but1 feeling anxious to get back to the ,zambesi again1 we decided to cross the hills toward its confluence with the ,kafue4 ,the distance1 which in a straight line is but small1 occupied three days4 ,the precipitous nature of the sides of this mass of hills knocked up the oxen and forced us to slaughter two1 one of which1 a very large one1 and ornamented with upward of thirty pieces of its own skin detached and hanging down1 ,sekeletu had wished us to take to the white people as a specimen of his cattle4 ,we saw many elephants among the hills1 and my men ran off and killed three4 ,when we came to the top of the outer range of the hills we had a glorious view4 ,at a short distance below us we saw the ,kafue1 wending away over a forest-clad plain to the confluence1 and on the other side of the ,zambesi1 beyond that1 lay a long range of dark hills4 ,a line of fleecy clouds appeared lying along the course of that river at their base4 ,the plain below us1 at the left of the ,kafue1 had more large game on it than any where else ,i had seen in ,africa4 ,hundreds of buffaloes and zebras grazed on the open spaces1 and there stood lordly elephants feeding majestically1 nothing moving apparently but the proboscis4 ,i wished that ,i had been able to take a photograph of a scene so seldom beheld1 and which is destined1 as guns increase1 to pass away from earth4 ,when we descended we found all the animals remarkably tame4 ,the elephants stood beneath the trees1 fanning themselves with their large ears1 as if they did not see us at #bjj or #cjj yards distance4 ,the number of animals was quite astonishing1 and made me think that here ,i could realize an image of that time when ,megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval forests4 ,we saw great numbers of red-colored pigs 7',potamochoerus'7 standing gazing at us in wonder4 ,the people live on the hills1 and1 having no guns1 seldom disturb the game4 ,they have never been visited1 even by half-castes2 but ,babisa traders have come occasionally4 ,continuous rains kept us for some time on the banks of the ,chiponga1 and here we were unfortunate enough to come among the tsetse4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,n4 ,gray1 of the ,british ,museum1 has kindly obliged me with a drawing of the insect1 with the ravages of which ,i have unfortunately been too familiar4 7,for description1 see p4 #id-if ,chapter #d ,paragraphs #af-bj47 ,no4 #a is the insect somewhat smaller than life1 from the specimen having contracted in drying2 they are a little larger than the common house-fly4 ,no4 #b is the insect magnified2 and ,no4 #c shows the magnified proboscis and poison-bulb at the root499 99 ,unfortunately1 these illustrations can not be presented in this ,,ascii text4 ,fortunately1 information on the ,tsetse is no longer difficult to find4 ,the somewhat smaller than life drawing is about #a cm from head to tail1 not including wings or proboscis4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,we tried to leave one morning1 but the rain coming on afresh brought us to a stand1 and after waiting an hour1 wet to the skin1 we were fain to retrace our steps to our sheds4 ,these rains were from the east1 and the clouds might be seen on the hills exactly as the ,table-cloth on ,table ,mountain4 ,this was the first wetting we had got since we left ,sesheke1 for ,i had gained some experience in traveling4 ,in ,londa we braved the rain1 and1 as ,i despised being carried in our frequent passage through running water1 ,i was pretty constantly drenched2 but now1 when we saw a storm coming1 we invariably halted4 ,the men soon pulled grass sufficient to make a little shelter for themselves by placing it on a bush1 and1 having got my camp-stool and umbrella1 with a little grass under my feet1 ,i kept myself perfectly dry4 ,we also lighted large fires1 and the men were not chilled by streams of water running down their persons1 and abstracting the heat1 as they would have been had they been exposed to the rain4 ,when it was over they warmed themselves by the fires1 and we traveled on comfortably4 ,the effect of this care was1 that we had much less sickness than with a smaller party in journeying to ,loanda4 ,another improvement made from my experience was avoiding an entire change of diet4 ,in going to ,loanda ,i took little or no ,european food1 in order not to burden my men and make them lose spirit1 but trusted entirely to what might be got by the gun and the liberality of the ,balonda2 but on this journey ,i took some flour which had been left in the wagon1 with some got on the island1 and baked my own bread all the way in an extemporaneous oven made by an inverted pot4 ,with these precautions1 aided1 no doubt1 by the greater healthiness of the district over which we passed1 ,i enjoyed perfect health4 ,when we left the ,chipongo on the #cjth we passed among the range of hills on our left1 which are composed of mica and clay slate4 ,at the bottom we found a forest of large silicified trees1 all lying as if the elevation of the range had made them fall away from it1 and toward the river4 ,an ordinary-sized tree standing on end1 measured #bb inches in diameter3 there were #ab laminae to the inch4 ,these are easily counted1 because there is usually a scale of pure silica between each1 which has not been so much affected by the weather as the rest of the ring itself3 the edges of the rings thus stand out plainly4 ,mr4 ,quekett1 having kindly examined some specimens1 finds that it is silicified ,,coniferous ,,wood of the ,,araucarian type2 and the nearest allied wood that he knows of is that found1 also in a fossil state1 in ,new ,south ,wales4 ,the numbers of large game were quite astonishing4 ,i never saw elephants so tame as those near the ,chiponga3 they stood close to our path without being the least afraid4 ,this is different from their conduct where they have been accustomed to guns1 for there they take alarm at the distance of a mile1 and begin to run if a shot is fired even at a longer distance4 ,my men killed another here1 and rewarded the villagers of the ,chiponga for their liberality in meal by loading them with flesh4 ,we spent a night at a baobab1 which was hollow1 and would hold twenty men inside4 ,it had been used as a lodging-house by the ,babisa4 ,as we approached nearer the ,zambesi1 the country became covered with broad-leaved bushes1 pretty thickly planted1 and we had several times to shout to elephants to get out of our way4 ,at an open space1 a herd of buffaloes came trotting up to look at our oxen1 and it was only by shooting one that ,i made them retreat4 ,the meat is very much like that of an ox1 and this one was very fine4 ,the only danger we actually encountered was from a female elephant1 with three young ones of different sizes4 ,charging through the centre of our extended line1 and causing the men to throw down their burdens in a great hurry1 she received a spear for her temerity4 ,i never saw an elephant with more than one calf before4 ,we knew that we were near our ,zambesi again1 even before the great river burst upon our sight1 by the numbers of water-fowl we met4 ,i killed four geese with two shots1 and1 had ,i followed the wishes of my men1 could have secured a meal of water-fowl for the whole party4 ,i never saw a river with so much animal life around and in it1 and1 as the ,barotse say1 ,its fish and fowl are always fat4 ,when our eyes were gladdened by a view of its goodly broad waters1 we found it very much larger than it is even above the falls4 ,one might try to make his voice heard across it in vain4 ,its flow was more rapid than near ,sesheke1 being often four and a half miles an hour1 and1 what ,i never saw before1 the water was discolored and of a deep brownish-red4 ,in the great valley the ,leeambye never becomes of this color4 ,the adjacent country1 so far north as is known1 is all level1 and the soil1 being generally covered with dense herbage1 is not abraded2 but on the eastern ridge the case is different2 the grass is short1 and1 the elevation being great1 the soil is washed down by the streams1 and hence the discoloration which we now view4 ,the same thing was observed on the western ridge4 ,we never saw discoloration till we reached the ,quango2 that obtained its matter from the western slope of the western ridge1 just as this part of the ,zambesi receives its soil from the eastern slope of the eastern ridge4 ,it carried a considerable quantity of wreck of reeds1 sticks1 and trees4 ,we struck upon the river about eight miles east of the confluence with the ,kafue1 and thereby missed a sight of that interesting point4 ,the cloudiness of the weather was such that but few observations could be made for determining our position2 so1 pursuing our course1 we went down the left bank1 and came opposite the island of ,menye makaba4 ,the ,zambesi contains numerous islands2 this was about a mile and a half or two miles long1 and upward of a quarter of a mile broad4 ,besides human population1 it has a herd of buffaloes that never leave it4 ,in the distance they seemed to be upward of sixty4 ,the human and brute inhabitants understand each other2 for when the former think they ought to avenge the liberties committed on their gardens1 the leaders of the latter come out boldly to give battle4 ,they told us that the only time in which they can thin them is when the river is full and part of the island flooded4 ,they then attack them from their canoes4 ,the comparatively small space to which they have confined themselves shows how luxuriant the vegetation of this region is2 for were they in want of more pasture1 as buffaloes can swim well1 and the distance from this bank to the island is not much more than #bjj yards1 they might easily remove hither4 ,the opposite bank is much more distant4 ,ranges of hills appear now to run parallel with the ,zambesi1 and are about fifteen miles apart4 ,those on the north approach nearest to the river4 ,the inhabitants on that side are the ,batonga1 those on the south bank are the ,banyai4 ,the hills abound in buffaloes1 and elephants are numerous1 and many are killed by the people on both banks4 ,they erect stages on high trees overhanging the paths by which the elephants come1 and then use a large spear with a handle nearly as thick as a man's wrist1 and four or five feet long4 ,when the animal comes beneath they throw the spear1 and if it enters between the ribs above1 as the blade is at least twenty inches long by two broad1 the motion of the handle1 as it is aided by knocking against the trees1 makes frightful gashes within1 and soon causes death4 ,they kill them also by means of a spear inserted in a beam of wood1 which being suspended on the branch of a tree by a cord attached to a latch fastened in the path1 and intended to be struck by the animal's foot1 leads to the fall of the beam1 and1 the spear being poisoned1 causes death in a few hours4 ,we were detained by continuous rains several days at this island4 ,the clouds rested upon the tops of the hills as they came from the eastward1 and then poured down plenteous showers on the valleys below4 ,as soon as we could move1 ,tomba ,nyama1 the head man of the island1 volunteered the loan of a canoe to cross a small river1 called the ,chongwe1 which we found to be about fifty or sixty yards broad and flooded4 ,all this part of the country was well known to ,sekwebu1 and he informed us that1 when he passed through it as a boy1 the inhabitants possessed abundance of cattle1 and there were no tsetse4 ,the existence of the insect now shows that it may return in company with the larger game4 ,the vegetation along the bank was exceedingly rank1 and the bushes so tangled that it was difficult to get on4 ,the paths had been made by the wild animals alone1 for the general pathway of the people is the river1 in their canoes4 ,we usually followed the footpaths of the game1 and of these there was no lack4 ,buffaloes1 zebras1 pallahs1 and waterbucks abound1 and there is also a great abundance of wild pigs1 koodoos1 and the black antelope4 ,we got one buffalo as he was rolling himself in a pool of mud4 ,he had a large piece of skin torn off his flank1 it was believed by an alligator4 ,we were struck by the fact that1 as soon as we came between the ranges of hills which flank the ,zambesi1 the rains felt warm4 ,at sunrise the thermometer stood at from #hb ,deg4 to #hf ,deg42 at midday1 in the coolest shade1 namely1 in my little tent1 under a shady tree1 at #if ,deg4 to #ih ,deg42 and at sunset it was #hf ,deg4 ,this is different from any thing we experienced in the interior1 for these rains always bring down the mercury to #gb ,deg4 or even #fh ,deg4 ,there1 too1 we found a small black coleopterous insect1 which stung like the mosquito1 but injected less poison2 it puts us in mind of that insect1 which does not exist in the high lands we had left4 ,,january #f,,th1 #ahef4 ,each village we passed furnished us with a couple of men to take us on to the next4 ,they were useful in showing us the parts least covered with jungle4 ,when we came near a village1 we saw men1 women1 and children employed in weeding their gardens1 they being great agriculturists4 ,most of the men are muscular1 and have large plowman hands4 ,their color is the same admixture1 from very dark to light olive1 that we saw in ,londa4 ,though all have thick lips and flat noses1 only the more degraded of the population possess the ugly negro physiognomy4 ,they mark themselves by a line of little raised cicatrices1 each of which is a quarter of an inch long2 they extend from the tip of the nose to the root of the hair on the forehead4 ,it is remarkable that ,i never met with an ,albino in crossing ,africa1 though1 from accounts published by the ,portuguese1 ,i was led to expect that they were held in favor as doctors by certain chiefs4 ,i saw several in the south3 one at ,kuruman is a full-grown woman1 and a man having this peculiarity of skin was met with in the colony4 ,their bodies are always blistered on exposure to the sun1 as the skin is more tender than that of the blacks4 ,the ,kuruman woman lived some time at ,kolobeng1 and generally had on her bosom and shoulders the remains of large blisters4 ,she was most anxious to be made black1 but nitrate of silver1 taken internally1 did not produce its usual effect4 ,during the time ,i resided at ,mabotsa1 a woman came to the station with a fine boy1 an ,albino4 ,the father had ordered her to throw him away1 but she clung to her offspring for many years4 ,he was remarkably intelligent for his age4 ,the pupil of the eye was of a pink color1 and the eye itself was unsteady in vision4 ,the hair1 or rather wool1 was yellow1 and the features were those common among the ,bechuanas4 ,after ,i left the place the mother is said to have become tired of living apart from the father1 who refused to have her while she retained the son4 ,she took him out one day1 and killed him close to the village of ,mabotsa1 and nothing was done to her by the authorities4 ,from having met with no ,albinos in ,londa1 ,i suspect they are there also put to death4 ,we saw one dwarf only in ,londa1 and brands on him showed he had once been a slave2 and there is one dwarf woman at ,linyanti4 ,the general absence of deformed persons is partly owing to their destruction in infancy1 and partly to the mode of life being a natural one1 so far as ventilation and food are concerned4 ,they use but few unwholesome mixtures as condiments1 and1 though their undress exposes them to the vicissitudes of the temperature1 it does not harbor vomites4 ,it was observed that1 when smallpox and measles visited the country1 they were most severe on the half-castes who were clothed4 ,in several tribes1 a child which is said to tlola1 transgress1 is put to death4 ,tlolo1 or transgression1 is ascribed to several curious cases4 ,a child who cut the upper front teeth before the under was always put to death among the ,bakaa1 and1 ,i believe1 also among the ,bakwains4 ,in some tribes1 a case of twins renders one of them liable to death2 and an ox1 which1 while lying in the pen1 beats the ground with its tail1 is treated in the same way4 ,it is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe4 ,when ,i was coming through ,londa1 my men carried a great number of fowls1 of a larger breed than any they had at home4 ,if one crowed before midnight1 it had been guilty of tlolo1 and was killed4 ,the men often carried them sitting on their guns1 and1 if one began to crow in a forest1 the owner would give it a beating1 by way of teaching it not to be guilty of crowing at unseasonable hours4 ,the women here are in the habit of piercing the upper lip1 and gradually enlarging the orifice until they can insert a shell4 ,the lip then appears drawn out beyond the perpendicular of the nose1 and gives them a most ungainly aspect4 ,sekwebu remarked1 ,these women want to make their mouths like those of ducks2 and1 indeed1 it does appear as if they had the idea that female beauty of lip had been attained by the ',ornithorhynchus paradoxus' alone4 ,this custom prevails throughout the country of the ,maravi1 and no one could see it without confessing that fashion had never led women to a freak more mad4 ,we had rains now every day1 and considerable cloudiness1 but the sun often burst through with scorching intensity4 ,all call out against it then1 saying1 ,o the sun6 that is rain again4 ,it was worth noticing that my companions never complained of the heat while on the highlands1 but when we descended into the lowlands of ,angola1 and here also1 they began to fret on account of it4 ,i myself felt an oppressive steaminess in the atmosphere which ,i had not experienced on the higher lands4 ,as the game was abundant and my party very large1 ,i had still to supply their wants with the gun4 ,we slaughtered the oxen only when unsuccessful in hunting4 ,we always entered into friendly relations with the head men of the different villages1 and they presented grain and other food freely4 ,one man gave a basinful of rice1 the first we met with in the country4 ,it is never seen in the interior4 ,he said he knew it was white man's corn1 and when ,i wished to buy some more1 he asked me to give him a slave4 ,this was the first symptom of the slave-trade on this side of the country4 ,the last of these friendly head men was named ,mobala2 and having passed him in peace1 we had no anticipation of any thing else2 but1 after a few hours1 we reached ,selole or ,chilole1 and found that he not only considered us enemies1 but had actually sent an express to raise the tribe of ,mburuma against us4 ,all the women of ,selole had fled1 and the few people we met exhibited symptoms of terror4 ,an armed party had come from ,mburuma in obedience to the call2 but the head man of the company1 being ,mburuma's brother1 suspecting that it was a hoax1 came to our encampment and told us the whole4 ,when we explained our objects1 he told us that ,mburuma1 he had no doubt1 would receive us well4 ,the reason why ,selole acted in this foolish manner we afterward found to be this3 an ,italian named ,simoens1 and nicknamed ,siriatomba 7don't eat tobacco71 had married the daughter of a chief called ,sekokole1 living north of ,tete4 ,he armed a party of fifty slaves with guns1 and1 ascending the river in canoes some distance beyond the island ,meya makaba1 attacked several inhabited islands beyond1 securing a large number of prisoners1 and much ivory4 ,on his return1 the different chiefs1 at the instigation of his father-in-law1 who also did not wish him to set up as a chief1 united1 attacked and dispersed the party of ,simoens1 and killed him while trying to escape on foot4 ,selole imagined that ,i was another ,italian1 or1 as he expressed it1 ,siriatomba risen from the dead4 ,in his message to ,mburuma he even said that ,mobala1 and all the villages beyond1 were utterly destroyed by our fire-arms1 but the sight of ,mobala himself1 who had come to the village of ,selole1 led the brother of ,mburuma to see at once that it was all a hoax4 ,but for this1 the foolish fellow ,selole might have given us trouble4 ,we saw many of the liberated captives of this ,italian among the villages here1 and ,sekwebu found them to be ,matebele4 ,the brother of ,mburuma had a gun1 which was the first we had seen in coming eastward4 ,before we reached ,mburuma my men went to attack a troop of elephants1 as they were much in need of meat4 ,when the troop began to run1 one of them fell into a hole1 and before he could extricate himself an opportunity was afforded for all the men to throw their spears4 ,when he rose he was like a huge porcupine1 for each of the seventy or eighty men had discharged more than one spear at him4 ,as they had no more1 they sent for me to finish him4 ,in order to put him at once out of pain1 ,i went to within twenty yards1 there being a bank between us which he could not readily climb4 ,i rested the gun upon an ant-hill so as to take a steady aim2 but1 though ,i fired twelve two-ounce bullets1 all ,i had1 into different parts1 ,i could not kill him4 ,as it was becoming dark1 ,i advised my men to let him stand1 being sure of finding him dead in the morning2 but1 though we searched all the next day1 and went more than ten miles1 we never saw him again4 ,i mention this to young men who may think that they will be able to hunt elephants on foot by adopting the ,ceylon practice of killing them by one ball in the brain4 ,i believe that in ,africa the practice of standing before an elephant1 expecting to kill him with one shot1 would be certain death to the hunter2 and ,i would add1 for the information of those who may think that1 because ,i met with a great abundance of game here1 they also might find rare sport1 that the tsetse exists all along both banks of the ,zambesi1 and there can be no hunting by means of horses4 ,hunting on foot in this climate is such excessively hard work1 that ,i feel certain the keenest sportsman would very soon turn away from it in disgust4 ,i myself was rather glad1 when furnished with the excuse that ,i had no longer any balls1 to hand over all the hunting to my men1 who had no more love for the sport than myself1 as they never engaged in it except when forced by hunger4 ,some of them gave me a hint to melt down my plate by asking if it were not lead4 ,i had two pewter plates and a piece of zinc which ,i now melted into bullets4 ,i also spent the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying spears for them4 ,my men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes and killed numbers of the calves4 ,i1 too1 exerted myself greatly2 but1 as ,i am now obliged to shoot with the left arm1 ,i am a bad shot1 and this1 with the lightness of the bullets1 made me very unsuccessful4 ,the more the hunger1 the less my success1 invariably4 ,i may here add an adventure with an elephant of one who has had more narrow escapes than any man living1 but whose modesty has always prevented him from publishing any thing about himself4 ,when we were on the banks of the ,zouga in #ahej1 ,mr4 ,oswell pursued one of these animals into the dense1 thick1 thorny bushes met with on the margin of that river1 and to which the elephant usually flees for safety4 ,he followed through a narrow pathway by lifting up some of the branches and forcing his way through the rest2 but1 when he had just got over this difficulty1 he saw the elephant1 whose tail he had but got glimpses of before1 now rushing toward him4 ,there was then no time to lift up branches1 so he tried to force the horse through them4 ,he could not effect a passage2 and1 as there was but an instant between the attempt and failure1 the hunter tried to dismount1 but in doing this one foot was caught by a branch1 and the spur drawn along the animal's flank2 this made him spring away and throw the rider on the ground with his face to the elephant1 which1 being in full chase1 still went on4 ,mr4 ,oswell saw the huge fore foot about to descend on his legs1 parted them1 and drew in his breath as if to resist the pressure of the other foot1 which he expected would next descend on his body4 ,he saw the whole length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over him2 the horse got away safely4 ,i have heard of but one other authentic instance in which an elephant went over a man without injury1 and1 for any one who knows the nature of the bush in which this occurred1 the very thought of an encounter in it with such a foe is appalling4 ,as the thorns are placed in pairs on opposite sides of the branches1 and these turn round on being pressed against1 one pair brings the other exactly into the position in which it must pierce the intruder4 ,they cut like knives4 ,horses dread this bush extremely2 indeed1 most of them refuse to face its thorns4 ,on reaching ,mburuma's village1 his brother came to meet us4 ,we explained the reason of our delay1 and he told us that we were looked upon with alarm4 ,he said that ,siriatomba had been killed near the village of ,selole1 and hence that man's fears4 ,he added that the ,italian had come talking of peace1 as we did1 but had kidnapped children and bought ivory with them1 and that we were supposed to be following the same calling4 ,i pointed to my men1 and asked if any of these were slaves1 and if we had any children among them1 and ,i think we satisfied him that we were true men4 ,referring to our ill success in hunting the day before1 he said1 ,the man at whose village you remained was in fault in allowing you to want meat1 for he had only to run across to ,mburuma2 he would have given him a little meal1 and1 having sprinkled that on the ground as an offering to the gods1 you would have found your elephant4 ,the chiefs in these parts take upon themselves an office somewhat like the priesthood1 and the people imagine that they can propitiate the ,deity through them4 ,in illustration of their ideas1 it may be mentioned that1 when we were among the tribes west of ,semalembue1 several of the people came forward and introduced themselves--one as a hunter of elephants1 another as a hunter of hippopotami1 a third as a digger of pitfalls--apparently wishing me to give them medicine for success in their avocations1 as well as to cure the diseases of those to whom ,i was administering the drugs4 ,i thought they attributed supernatural power to them1 for1 like all ,africans1 they have unbounded faith in the efficacy of charms2 but ,i took pains to let them know that they must pray and trust to another power than mine for aid4 ,we never saw ,mburuma himself1 and the conduct of his people indicated very strong suspicions1 though he gave us presents of meal1 maize1 and native corn4 ,his people never came near us except in large bodies and fully armed4 ,we had to order them to place their bows1 arrows1 and spears at a distance before entering our encampment4 ,we did not1 however1 care much for a little trouble now1 as we hoped that1 if we could pass this time without much molestation1 we might yet be able to return with ease1 and without meeting sour1 suspicious looks4 ,the soil1 glancing every where with mica1 is very fertile1 and all the valleys are cultivated1 the maize being now in ear and eatable4 ,ranges of hills1 which line both banks of the river above this1 now come close up to each bank1 and form a narrow gorge1 which1 like all others of the same nature1 is called ,mpata4 ,there is a narrow pathway by the side of the river1 but we preferred a more open one in a pass among the hills to the east1 which is called ,mohango4 ,the hills rise to a height of #hjj or #ajjj feet1 and are all covered with trees4 ,the rocks were of various colored mica schist2 and parallel with the ,zambesi lay a broad band of gneiss with garnets in it4 ,it stood on edge1 and several dikes of basalt1 with dolerite1 had cut through it4 ,mburuma sent two men as guides to the ,loangwa4 ,these men tried to bring us to a stand1 at a distance of about six miles from the village1 by the notice1 ,mburuma says you are to sleep under that tree4 ,on declining to do this1 we were told that we must wait at a certain village for a supply of corn4 ,as none appeared in an hour1 ,i proceeded on the march4 ,it is not quite certain that their intentions were hostile1 but this seemed to disarrange their plans1 and one of them was soon observed running back to ,mburuma4 ,they had first of all tried to separate our party by volunteering the loan of a canoe to convey ,sekwebu and me1 together with our luggage1 by way of the river1 and1 as it was pressed upon us1 ,i thought that this was their design4 ,the next attempt was to detain us in the pass2 but1 betraying no suspicion1 we civilly declined to place ourselves in their power in an unfavorable position4 ,we afterward heard that a party of ,babisa traders1 who came from the northeast1 bringing ,english goods from ,mozambique1 had been plundered by this same people4 ,elephants were still abundant1 but more wild1 as they fled with great speed as soon as we made our appearance4 ,the country between ,mburuma's and his mother's village was all hilly and very difficult1 and prevented us from traveling more than ten miles a day4 ,at the village of ,ma ,mburuma 7mother of ,mburuma71 the guides1 who had again joined us1 gave a favorable report1 and the women and children did not flee4 ,here we found that traders1 called ,bazunga1 have been in the habit of coming in canoes1 and that ,i was named as one of them4 ,these ,i supposed to be half-caste ,portuguese1 for they said that the hair of their heads and the skin beneath their clothing were different from mine4 ,ma ,mburuma promised us canoes to cross the ,loangwa in our front4 ,it was pleasant to see great numbers of men1 women1 and boys come1 without suspicion1 to look at the books1 watch1 looking-glass1 revolver1 etc4 ,they are a strong1 muscular race1 and both men and women are seen cultivating the ground4 ,the soil contains so much comminuted talc and mica from the adjacent hills that it seems as if mixed with spermaceti4 ,they generally eat their corn only after it has begun to sprout from steeping it in water4 ,the deformed lips of the women make them look very ugly2 ,i never saw one smile4 ,the people in this part seem to understand readily what is spoken about ,god1 for they listen with great attention1 and tell in return their own ideas of departed spirits4 ,the position of the village of ,mburuma's mother was one of great beauty1 quite inclosed by high1 steep hills2 and the valleys are all occupied by gardens of native corn and maize1 which grow luxuriantly4 ,we were obliged to hurry along1 for the oxen were bitten daily by the tsetse1 which1 as ,i have before remarked1 now inhabits extensive tracts which once supported herds of cattle that were swept off by ,mpakane and other marauders1 whose devastations were well known to ,sekwebu1 for he himself had been an actor in the scenes4 ,when he told me of them he always lowered his voice1 in order that the guides might not hear that he had been one of their enemies4 ,but that we were looked upon with suspicion1 on account of having come in the footsteps of invaders1 was evident from our guides remarking to men in the gardens through which we passed1 ,they have words of peace--all very fine2 but lies only1 as the ,bazunga are great liars4 ,they thought we did not understand them2 but ,sekwebu knew every word perfectly2 and1 without paying any ostensible attention to these complimentary remarks1 we always took care to explain ever afterward that we were not ,bazunga1 but ,makoa 7,english74 ,chapter #bi4 ,confluence of ,loangwa and ,zambesi--,hostile ,appearances--,ruins of a ,church--,turmoil of ,spirit--,cross the ,river--,friendly ,parting--,ruins of stone ,houses--,the ,situation of ,zumbo for ,commerce--,pleasant ,gardens--,dr4 ,lacerda's ,visit to ,cazembe--,pereira's ,statement--,unsuccessful ,attempt to establish ,trade with the ,people of ,cazembe--,one of my ,men tossed by a ,buffalo--,meet a ,man with ,jacket and ,hat on--,hear of the ,portuguese and native ,war--,holms and ,terraces on the ,banks of a ,river--,dancing for ,corn--,beautiful ,country--,mpende's ,hostility--,incantations--,a ,fight anticipated--,courage and ,remarks of my ,men--,visit from two old ,councilors of ,mpende--,their ,opinion of the ,english--,mpende concludes not to fight us--,his subsequent ,friendship--,aids us to cross the ,river--,the ,country--,sweet ,potatoes--,bakwain ,theory of ,rain confirmed--,thunder without ,clouds--,desertion of one of my ,men--,other ,natives' ,ideas of the ,english--,dalama 7gold7--,inhabitants dislike ,slave-buyers--,meet native ,traders with ,american ,calico--,game-laws-- ,elephant ,medicine--,salt from the ,sand--,fertility of ,soil--,spotted ,hyaena--,liberality and ,politeness of the ,people--,presents--,a stingy white ,trader--,natives' ,remarks about him--,effect on their ,minds--,rain and ,wind now from an opposite ,direction--,scarcity of ,fuel--,trees for ,boat-building--,boroma--,freshets--,lea ve the ,river--,chicova1 its ,geological ,features--,small ,rapid near ,tete--,loquacious ,guide--,nyampungo1 the ,rain-charmer--,an old ,man--,no ,silver--,gold-washing--,no ,cattle4 #ad,,th4 ,we reached the confluence of the ,loangwa and the ,zambesi1 most thankful to ,god for his great mercies in helping us thus far4 ,mburuma's people had behaved so suspiciously1 that1 though we had guides from him1 we were by no means sure that we should not be attacked in crossing the ,loangwa4 ,we saw them here collecting in large numbers1 and1 though professing friendship1 they kept at a distance from our camp4 ,they refused to lend us more canoes than two1 though they have many4 ,they have no intercourse with ,europeans except through the ,babisa4 ,they tell us that this was formerly the residence of the ,bazunga1 and maintain silence as to the cause of their leaving it4 ,i walked about some ruins ,i discovered1 built of stone1 and found the remains of a church1 and on one side lay a broken bell1 with the letters ,i4 ,h4 ,s4 and a cross1 but no date4 ,there were no inscriptions on stone1 and the people could not tell what the ,bazunga called their place4 ,we found afterward it was ,zumbo4 ,i felt some turmoil of spirit in the evening at the prospect of having all my efforts for the welfare of this great region and its teeming population knocked on the head by savages to-morrow1 who might be said to know not what they do4 ,it seemed such a pity that the important fact of the existence of the two healthy ridges which ,i had discovered should not become known in ,christendom1 for a confirmation would thereby have been given to the idea that ,africa is not open to the ,gospel4 ,but ,i read that ,jesus said1 ,all power is given unto me in heaven and on earth2 go ye1 therefore1 and teach all nations 4 4 4 and lo1 ,i ,,am ,,with ,,you ,,alway1 ,,even ,,unto ,,the ,,end ,,of ,,the ,,world4 ,i took this as ,his word of honor1 and then went out to take observations for latitude and longitude1 which1 ,i think1 were very successful4 7,the church3 lat4 #ae;d #cg' #bb ,s41 long4 #cj;d #cb' ,e47 #ae,,th4 ,the natives of the surrounding country collected around us this morning1 all armed4 ,the women and children were sent away1 and one of ,mburuma's wives1 who lives in the vicinity1 was not allowed to approach1 though she had come from her village to pay me a visit4 ,only one canoe was lent to us1 though we saw two others tied to the bank4 ,the part we crossed was about a mile from the confluence1 and1 as it was now flooded1 it seemed upward of half a mile in breadth4 ,we passed all our goods first on to an island in the middle1 then the remaining cattle and men2 occupying the post of honor1 ,i1 as usual1 was the last to enter the canoe4 ,a number of the inhabitants stood armed all the time we were embarking4 ,i showed them my watch1 lens1 and other things to keep them amused1 until there only remained those who were to enter the canoe with me4 ,i thanked them for their kindness1 and wished them peace4 ,after all1 they may have been influenced only by the intention to be ready in case ,i should play them some false trick1 for they have reason to be distrustful of the whites4 ,the guides came over to bid us adieu1 and we sat under a mango-tree fifteen feet in circumference4 ,we found them more communicative now4 ,they said that the land on both sides belonged to the ,bazunga1 and that they had left of old1 on the approach of ,changamera1 ,ngaba1 and ,mpakane4 ,sekwebu was with the last named1 but he maintained that they never came to the confluence1 though they carried off all the cattle of ,mburuma4 ,the guides confirmed this by saying that the ,bazunga were not attacked1 but fled in alarm on the approach of the enemy4 ,this mango-tree he knew by its proper name1 and we found seven others and several tamarinds1 and were informed that the chief ,mburuma sends men annually to gather the fruit1 but1 like many ,africans whom ,i have known1 has not had patience to propagate more trees4 ,i gave them some little presents for themselves1 a handkerchief and a few beads1 and they were highly pleased with a cloth of red baize for ,mburuma1 which ,sekeletu had given me to purchase a canoe4 ,we were thankful to part good friends4 ,next morning we passed along the bottom of the range1 called ,mazanzwe1 and found the ruins of eight or ten stone houses4 ,they all faced the river1 and were high enough up the flanks of the hill ,mazanzwe to command a pleasant view of the broad ,zambesi4 ,these establishments had all been built on one plan--a house on one side of a large court1 surrounded by a wall2 both houses and walls had been built of soft gray sandstone cemented together with mud4 ,the work had been performed by slaves ignorant of building1 for the stones were not often placed so as to cover the seams below4 ,hence you frequently find the joinings forming one seam from the top to the bottom4 ,much mortar or clay had been used to cover defects1 and now trees of the fig family grow upon the walls1 and clasp them with their roots4 ,when the clay is moistened1 masses of the walls come down by wholesale4 ,some of the rafters and beams had fallen in1 but were entire1 and there were some trees in the middle of the houses as large as a man's body4 ,on the opposite or south bank of the ,zambesi we saw the remains of a wall on a height which was probably a fort1 and the church stood at a central point1 formed by the right bank of the ,loangwa and the left of the ,zambesi4 ,the situation of ,zumbo was admirably well chosen as a site for commerce4 ,looking backward we see a mass of high1 dark mountains1 covered with trees2 behind us rises the fine high hill ,mazanzwe1 which stretches away northward along the left bank of the ,loangwa2 to the ,s4,e4 lies an open country1 with a small round hill in the distance called ,tofulo4 ,the merchants1 as they sat beneath the verandahs in front of their houses1 had a magnificent view of the two rivers at their confluence2 of their church at the angle2 and of all the gardens which they had on both sides of the rivers4 ,in these they cultivated wheat without irrigation1 and1 as the ,portuguese assert1 of a grain twice the size of that at ,tete4 ,from the guides we learned that the inhabitants had not imbibed much idea of ,christianity1 for they used the same term for the church bell which they did for a diviner's drum4 ,from this point the merchants had water communication in three directions beyond1 namely1 from the ,loangwa to the ,n4,n4,w41 by the ,kafue to the ,w41 and by the ,zambesi to the ,s4,w4 ,their attention1 however1 was chiefly attracted to the ,n4 or ,londa2 and the principal articles of trade were ivory and slaves4 ,private enterprise was always restrained1 for the colonies of the ,portuguese being strictly military1 and the pay of the commandants being very small1 the officers have always been obliged to engage in trade2 and had they not employed their power to draw the trade to themselves by preventing private traders from making bargains beyond the villages1 and only at regulated prices1 they would have had no trade1 as they themselves were obliged to remain always at their posts4 ,several expeditions went to the north as far as to ,cazembe1 and ,dr4 ,lacerda1 himself commandant of ,tete1 went to that chief's residence4 ,unfortunately1 he was cut off while there1 and his papers1 taken possession of by a ,jesuit who accompanied him1 were lost to the world4 ,this ,jesuit probably intended to act fairly and have them published2 but soon after his return he was called away by death himself1 and the papers were lost sight of4 ,dr4 ,lacerda had a strong desire to open up communication with ,angola1 which would have been of importance then1 as affording a speedier mode of communication with ,portugal than by the way of the ,cape2 but since the opening of the overland passage to ,india1 a quicker transit is effected from ,eastern ,africa to ,lisbon by way of the ,red ,sea4 ,besides ,lacerda1 ,cazembe was visited by ,pereira1 who gave a glowing account of that chief's power1 which none of my inquiries have confirmed4 ,the people of ,matiamvo stated to me that ,cazembe was a vassal of their chief3 and1 from all the native visitors whom ,i have seen1 he appears to be exactly like ,shinte and ,katema1 only a little more powerful4 ,the term ,emperor1 which has been applied to him1 seems totally inappropriate4 ,the statement of ,pereira that twenty negroes were slaughtered in a day1 was not confirmed by any one else1 though numbers may have been killed on some particular occasion during the time of his visit1 for we find throughout all the country north of #bj ,deg41 which ,i consider to be real negro1 the custom of slaughtering victims to accompany the departed soul of a chief1 and human sacrifices are occasionally offered1 and certain parts of the bodies are used as charms4 ,it is on account of the existence of such rites1 with the similarity of the language1 and the fact that the names of rivers are repeated again and again from north to south through all that region1 that ,i consider them to have been originally one family4 ,the last expedition to ,cazembe was somewhat of the same nature as the others1 and failed in establishing a commerce1 because the people of ,cazembe1 who had come to ,tete to invite the ,portuguese to visit them1 had not been allowed to trade with whom they might4 ,as it had not been free-trade there1 ,cazembe did not see why it should be free-trade at his town2 he accordingly would not allow his people to furnish the party with food except at his price2 and the expedition1 being half starved in consequence1 came away voting unanimously that ,cazembe was a great bore4 ,when we left the ,loangwa we thought we had got rid of the hills2 but there are some behind ,mazanzwe1 though five or six miles off from the river4 ,tsetse and the hills had destroyed two riding oxen1 and when the little one that ,i now rode knocked up1 ,i was forced to march on foot4 ,the bush being very dense and high1 we were going along among the trees1 when three buffaloes1 which we had unconsciously passed above the wind1 thought that they were surrounded by men1 and dashed through our line4 ,my ox set off at a gallop1 and when ,i could manage to glance back1 ,i saw one of the men up in the air about five feet above a buffalo1 which was tearing along with a stream of blood running down his flank4 ,when ,i got back to the poor fellow1 ,i found that he had lighted on his face1 and1 though he had been carried on the horns of the buffalo about twenty yards before getting the final toss1 the skin was not pierced nor was a bone broken4 ,when the beasts appeared1 he had thrown down his load and stabbed one in the side4 ,it turned suddenly upon him1 and1 before he could use a tree for defense1 carried him off4 ,we shampooed him well1 and then went on1 and in about a week he was able to engage in the hunt again4 ,at ,zumbo we had entered upon old gray sandstone1 with shingle in it1 dipping generally toward the south1 and forming the bed of the river4 ,the ,zambesi is very broad here1 but contains many inhabited islands4 ,we slept opposite one on the #afth called ,shibanga4 ,the nights are warm1 the temperature never falling below #hj ,deg42 it was #ia ,deg4 even at sunset4 ,one can not cool the water by a wet towel round the vessel1 and we feel no pleasure in drinking warm water1 though the heat makes us imbibe large quantities4 ,we often noticed lumps of a froth-like substance on the bushes as large as cricket-balls1 which we could not explain4 ,on the morning of the #agth we were pleased to see a person coming from the island of ,shibanga with jacket and hat on4 ,he was quite black1 but had come from the ,portuguese settlement at ,tete or ,nyungwe2 and now1 for the first time1 we understood that the ,portuguese settlement was on the other bank of the river1 and that they had been fighting with the natives for the last two years4 ,we had thus got into the midst of a ,caffre war1 without any particular wish to be on either side4 ,he advised us to cross the river at once1 as ,mpende lived on this side4 ,we had been warned by the guides of ,mburuma against him1 for they said that if we could get past ,mpende we might reach the white men1 but that he was determined that no white man should pass him4 ,wishing to follow this man's advice1 we proposed to borrow his canoes2 but1 being afraid to offend the lords of the river1 he declined4 ,the consequence was1 we were obliged to remain on the enemy's side4 ,the next island belonged to a man named ,zungo1 a fine1 frank fellow1 who brought us at once a present of corn1 bound in a peculiar way in grass4 ,he freely accepted our apology for having no present to give in return1 as he knew that there were no goods in the interior1 and1 besides1 sent forward a recommendation to his brother-in-law ,pangola4 ,the country adjacent to the river is covered with dense bush1 thorny and tangled1 making one stoop or wait till the men broke or held the branches on one side4 ,there is much rank grass1 but it is not so high or rank as that of ,angola4 ,the maize1 however1 which is grown here is equal in size to that which the ,americans sell for seed at the ,cape4 ,there is usually a holm adjacent to the river1 studded with villages and gardens4 ,the holms are but partially cultivated1 and on the other parts grows rank and weedy grass4 ,there is then a second terrace1 on which trees and bushes abound2 and ,i thought ,i could detect a third and higher steppe4 ,but ,i never could discover terraces on the adjacent country1 such as in other countries show ancient sea-beaches4 ,the path runs sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other of these river terraces4 ,canoes are essentially necessary2 but ,i find that they here cost too much for my means1 and higher up1 where my hoes might have secured one1 ,i was unwilling to enter into a canoe and part with my men while there was danger of their being attacked4 #ah,,th4 ,yesterday we rested under a broad-spreading fig-tree4 ,large numbers of buffaloes and water-antelopes were feeding quietly in the meadows2 the people have either no guns or no ammunition1 or they would not be so tame4 ,pangola visited us1 and presented us with food4 ,in few other countries would one hundred and fourteen sturdy vagabonds be supported by the generosity of the head men and villagers1 and whatever they gave be presented with politeness4 ,my men got pretty well supplied individually1 for they went into the villages and commenced dancing4 ,the young women were especially pleased with the new steps they had to show1 though ,i suspect many of them were invented for the occasion1 and would say1 ,dance for me1 and ,i will grind corn for you4 ,at every fresh instance of liberality1 ,sekwebu said1 ,did not ,i tell you that these people had hearts1 while we were still at ,linyanti8 ,all agreed that the character he had given was true1 and some remarked1 ,look6 although we have been so long away from home1 not one of us has become lean4 ,it was a fact that we had been all well supplied either with meat by my gun or their own spears1 or food from the great generosity of the inhabitants4 ,pangola promised to ferry us across the ,zambesi1 but failed to fulfill his promise4 ,he seemed to wish to avoid offending his neighbor ,mpende by aiding us to escape from his hands1 so we proceeded along the bank4 ,although we were in doubt as to our reception by ,mpende1 ,i could not help admiring the beautiful country as we passed along4 ,there is1 indeed1 only a small part under cultivation in this fertile valley1 but my mind naturally turned to the comparison of it with ,kolobeng1 where we waited anxiously during months for rain1 and only a mere thunder-shower followed4 ,i shall never forget the dry1 hot east winds of that region2 the yellowish1 sultry1 cloudless sky2 the grass and all the plants drooping from drought1 the cattle lean1 the people dispirited1 and our own hearts sick from hope deferred4 ,there we often heard in the dead of the night the shrill whistle of the rain-doctor calling for rain that would not come1 while here we listened to the rolling thunder by night1 and beheld the swelling valleys adorned with plenty by day4 ,we have rain almost daily1 and every thing is beautifully fresh and green4 ,i felt somewhat as people do on coming ashore after a long voyage--inclined to look upon the landscape in the most favorable light4 ,the hills are covered with forests1 and there is often a long line of fleecy cloud lying on them about midway up2 they are very beautiful4 ,finding no one willing to aid us in crossing the river1 we proceeded to the village of the chief ,mpende4 ,a fine large conical hill now appeared to the ,n4,n4,e42 it is the highest ,i have seen in these parts1 and at some points it appears to be two cones joined together1 the northern one being a little lower than the southern4 ,another high hill stands on the same side to the ,n4,e41 and1 from its similarity in shape to an axe at the top1 is called ,motemwa4 ,beyond it1 eastward1 lies the country of ,kaimbwa1 a chief who has been engaged in actual conflict with the ,bazunga1 and beat them too1 according to the version of things here4 ,the hills on the north bank are named ,kamoenja4 ,when we came to ,mpende's village1 he immediately sent to inquire who we were1 and then ordered the guides who had come with us from the last village to go back and call their masters4 ,he sent no message to us whatever4 ,we had traveled very slowly up to this point1 the tsetse-stricken oxen being now unable to go two miles an hour4 ,we were also delayed by being obliged to stop at every village1 and send notice of our approach to the head man1 who came and received a little information1 and gave some food4 ,if we had passed on without taking any notice of them1 they would have considered it impolite1 and we should have appeared more as enemies than friends4 ,i consoled myself for the loss of time by the thought that these conversations tended to the opening of our future path4 #bc;,d4 ,this morning1 at sunrise1 a party of ,mpende's people came close to our encampment1 uttering strange cries and waving some bright red substance toward us4 ,they then lighted a fire with charms in it1 and departed1 uttering the same hideous screams as before4 ,this was intended to render us powerless1 and probably also to frighten us4 ,ever since dawn1 parties of armed men have been seen collecting from all quarters1 and numbers passed us while it was yet dark4 ,had we moved down the river at once1 it would have been considered an indication of fear or defiance1 and so would a retreat4 ,i therefore resolved to wait1 trusting in ,him who has the hearts of all men in ,his hands4 ,they evidently intended to attack us1 for no friendly message was sent2 and when three of the ,batoka the night before entered the village to beg food1 a man went round about each of them1 making a noise like a lion4 ,the villagers then called upon them to do homage1 and1 when they complied1 the chief ordered some chaff to be given them1 as if it had been food4 ,other things also showed unmistakable hostility4 ,as we were now pretty certain of a skirmish1 ,i ordered an ox to be slaughtered1 as this is a means which ,sebituane employed for inspiring courage4 ,i have no doubt that we should have been victorious2 indeed1 my men1 who were far better acquainted with fighting than any of the people on the ,zambesi1 were rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to carry the tusks for them4 ,we shall now1 said they1 get both corn and clothes in plenty4 ,they were in a sad state1 poor fellows2 for the rains we had encountered had made their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal1 and they were looked upon with disgust by the well-fed and well-clothed ,zambesians4 ,they were1 however1 veterans in marauding1 and the head men1 instead of being depressed by fear1 as the people of ,mpende intended should be the case in using their charms1 hinted broadly to me that ,i ought to allow them to keep ,mpende's wives4 ,the roasting of meat went on fast and furious1 and some of the young men said to me1 ,you have seen us with elephants1 but you don't know yet what we can do with men4 ,i believe that1 had ,mpende struck the first blow1 he would soon have found out that he never made a greater mistake in his life4 ,his whole tribe was assembled at about the distance of half a mile4 ,as the country is covered with trees1 we did not see them2 but every now and then a few came about us as spies1 and would answer no questions4 ,i handed a leg of the ox to two of these1 and desired them to take it to ,mpende4 ,after waiting a considerable time in suspense1 two old men made their appearance1 and said they had come to inquire who ,i was4 ,i replied1 ,i am a ,lekoa 7an ,englishman74 ,they said1 ,we don't know that tribe4 ,we suppose you are a ,mozunga1 the tribe with which we have been fighting4 ,as ,i was not yet aware that the term ,mozunga was applied to a ,portuguese1 and thought they meant half-castes1 ,i showed them my hair and the skin of my bosom1 and asked if the ,bazunga had hair and skin like mine4 ,as the ,portuguese have the custom of cutting the hair close1 and are also somewhat darker than we are1 they answered1 ,no2 we never saw skin so white as that2 and added1 ,ah6 you must be one of that tribe that loves 7literally1 'has heart to'7 the black men4 ,i1 of course1 gladly responded in the affirmative4 ,they returned to the village1 and we afterward heard that there had been a long discussion between ,mpende and his councilors1 and that one of the men with whom we had remained to talk the day before had been our advocate4 ,he was named ,sindese ,oalea4 ,when we were passing his village1 after some conversation1 he said to his people1 ,is that the man whom they wish to stop after he has passed so many tribes8 ,what can ,mpende say to refusing him a passage8 ,it was owing to this man1 and the fact that ,i belonged to the friendly white tribe1 that ,mpende was persuaded to allow us to pass4 ,when we knew the favorable decision of the council1 ,i sent ,sekwebu to speak about the purchase of a canoe1 as one of my men had become very ill1 and ,i wished to relieve his companions by taking him in a canoe4 ,before ,sekwebu could finish his story1 ,mpende remarked1 ,that white man is truly one of our friends4 ,see how he lets me know his afflictions6 ,sekwebu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the conversation1 and said1 ,ah6 if you only knew him as well as we do who have lived with him1 you would understand that he highly values your friendship and that of ,mburuma1 and1 as he is a stranger1 he trusts in you to direct him4 ,he replied1 ,well1 he ought to cross to the other side of the river1 for this bank is hilly and rough1 and the way to ,tete is longer on this than on the opposite bank4 ,but who will take us across1 if you do not8 ,truly6 replied ,mpende2 ,i only wish you had come sooner to tell me about him2 but you shall cross4 ,mpende said frequently he was sorry he had not known me sooner1 but that he had been prevented by his enchanter from coming near me2 and he lamented that the same person had kept him from eating the meat which ,i had presented4 ,he did every thing he could afterward to aid us on our course1 and our departure was as different as possible from our approach to his village4 ,i was very much pleased to find the ,english name spoken of with such great respect so far from the coast1 and most thankful that no collision occurred to damage its influence4 #bd,,th4 ,mpende sent two of his principal men to order the people of a large island below to ferry us across4 ,the river is very broad1 and1 though my men were well acquainted with the management of canoes1 we could not all cross over before dark4 ,it is #abjj yards from bank to bank1 and between #gjj and #hjj of deep water1 flowing at the rate of #c-c_/d miles per hour4 ,we landed first on an island2 then1 to prevent our friends playing false with us1 hauled the canoes up to our bivouac1 and slept in them4 ,next morning we all reached the opposite bank in safety4 ,we observed1 as we came along the ,zambesi1 that it had fallen two feet below the height at which we first found it1 and the water1 though still muddy enough to deposit a film at the bottom of vessels in a few hours1 is not nearly so red as it was1 nor is there so much wreck on its surface4 ,it is therefore not yet the period of the central ,zambesi inundation1 as we were aware also from our knowledge of the interior4 ,the present height of the water has been caused by rains outside the eastern ridge4 ,the people here seem abundantly supplied with ,english cotton goods4 ,the ,babisa are the medium of trade1 for we were informed that the ,bazunga1 who formerly visited these parts1 have been prevented by the war from coming for the last two years4 ,the ,babisa are said to be so fond of a tusk that they will even sell a newly-married wife for one4 ,as we were now not far from the latitude of ,mozambique1 ,i was somewhat tempted to strike away from the river to that port1 instead of going to the ,s4,e41 in the direction the river flows2 but1 the great object of my journey being to secure water-carriage1 ,i resolved to continue along the ,zambesi1 though it did lead me among the enemies of the ,portuguese4 ,the region to the north of the ranges of hills on our left is called ,senga1 from being the country of the ,basenga1 who are said to be great workers in iron1 and to possess abundance of fine iron ore1 which1 when broken1 shows veins of the pure metal in its substance4 ,it has been well roasted in the operations of nature4 ,beyond ,senga lies a range of mountains called ,mashinga1 to which the ,portuguese in former times went to wash for gold1 and beyond that are great numbers of tribes which pass under the general term ,maravi4 ,to the northeast there are extensive plains destitute of trees1 but covered with grass1 and in some places it is marshy4 ,the whole of the country to the north of the ,zambesi is asserted to be very much more fertile than that to the south4 ,the ,maravi1 for instance1 raise sweet potatoes of immense size1 but when these are planted on the southern bank they soon degenerate4 ,the root of this plant 7',convolvulus batata'7 does not keep more than two or three days1 unless it is cut into thin slices and dried in the sun1 but the ,maravi manage to preserve them for months by digging a pit and burying them therein inclosed in wood-ashes4 ,unfortunately1 the ,maravi1 and all the tribes on that side of the country1 are at enmity with the ,portuguese1 and1 as they practice night attacks in their warfare1 it is dangerous to travel among them4 #bi,,th4 ,i was most sincerely thankful to find myself on the south bank of the ,zambesi1 and1 having nothing else1 ,i sent back one of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank-offering to ,mpende4 ,the different head men along this river act very much in concert1 and if one refuses passage they all do1 uttering the sage remark1 ,if so-and-so did not lend his canoes1 he must have had some good reason4 ,the next island we came to was that of a man named ,mozinkwa4 ,here we were detained some days by continuous rains1 and thought we observed the confirmation of the ,bakwain theory of rains4 ,a double tier of clouds floated quickly away to the west1 and as soon as they began to come in an opposite direction the rains poured down4 ,the inhabitants who live in a dry region like that of ,kolobeng are nearly all as weather-wise as the rain-makers1 and any one living among them for any length of time becomes as much interested in the motions of the clouds as they are themselves4 ,mr4 ,moffat1 who was as sorely tried by droughts as we were1 and had his attention directed in the same way1 has noted the curious phenomenon of thunder without clouds4 ,mrs4 ,l4 heard it once1 but ,i never had that good fortune4 ,it is worth the attention of the observant4 ,humboldt has seen rain without clouds1 a phenomenon quite as singular4 ,i have been in the vicinity of the fall of three aerolites1 none of which ,i could afterward discover4 ,one fell into the lake ,kumadau with a report somewhat like a sharp peal of thunder4 ,the women of the ,bakurutse villages there all uttered a scream on hearing it4 ,this happened at midday1 and so did another at what is called the ,great ,chuai1 which was visible in its descent1 and was also accompanied with a thundering noise4 ,the third fell near ,kuruman1 and at night1 and was seen as a falling star by people at ,motito and at ,daniel's ,kuil1 places distant forty miles on opposite sides of the spot4 ,it sounded to me like the report of a great gun1 and a few seconds after1 a lesser sound1 as if striking the earth after a rebound4 ,does the passage of a few such aerolites through the atmosphere to the earth by day cause thunder without clouds8 ,we were detained here so long that my tent became again quite rotten4 ,one of my men1 after long sickness1 which ,i did not understand1 died here4 ,he was one of the ,batoka1 and when unable to walk ,i had some difficulty in making his companions carry him4 ,they wished to leave him to die when his case became hopeless4 ,another of them deserted to ,mozinkwa4 ,he said that his motive for doing so was that the ,makololo had killed both his father and mother1 and1 as he had neither wife nor child1 there was no reason why he should continue longer with them4 ,i did not object to his statements1 but said if he should change his mind he would be welcome to rejoin us1 and intimated to ,mozinkwa that he must not be sold as a slave4 ,we are now among people inured to slave-dealing4 ,we were visited by men who had been as far as ,tete or ,nyungwe1 and were told that we were but ten days from that fort4 ,one of them1 a ,mashona man1 who had come from a great distance to the southwest1 was anxious to accompany us to the country of the white men2 he had traveled far1 and ,i found that he had also knowledge of the ,english tribe1 and of their hatred to the trade in slaves4 ,he told ,sekwebu that the ,english were men1 an emphasis being put upon the term ,,men1 which leaves the impression that others are1 as they express it in speaking scornfully1 only ,,things4 ,several spoke in the same manner1 and ,i found that from ,mpende's downward ,i rose higher every day in the estimation of my own people4 ,even the slaves gave a very high character to the ,english1 and ,i found out afterward that1 when ,i was first reported at ,tete1 the servants of my friend the commandant said to him in joke1 ,ah6 this is our brother who is coming2 we shall all leave you and go with him4 ,we had still1 however1 some difficulties in store for us before reaching that point4 ,the man who wished to accompany us came and told us before our departure that his wife would not allow him to go1 and she herself came to confirm the decision4 ,here the women have only a small puncture in the upper lip1 in which they insert a little button of tin4 ,the perforation is made by degrees1 a ring with an opening in it being attached to the lip1 and the ends squeezed gradually together4 ,the pressure on the flesh between the ends of the ring causes its absorption1 and a hole is the result4 ,children may be seen with the ring on the lip1 but not yet punctured4 ,the tin they purchase from the ,portuguese1 and1 although silver is reported to have been found in former times in this district1 no one could distinguish it from tin4 ,but they had a knowledge of gold1 and for the first time ,i heard the word dalama 7gold7 in the native language4 ,the word is quite unknown in the interior1 and so is the metal itself4 ,in conversing with the different people1 we found the idea prevalent that those who had purchased slaves from them had done them an injury4 ,all the slaves of ,nyungwe1 said one1 are our children2 the ,bazunga have made a town at our expense4 ,when ,i asked if they had not taken the prices offered them1 they at once admitted it1 but still thought that they had been injured by being so far tempted4 ,from the way in which the lands of ,zumbo were spoken of as still belonging to the ,portuguese 7and they are said to have been obtained by purchase71 ,i was inclined to conclude that the purchase of land is not looked upon by the inhabitants in the same light as the purchase of slaves4 ,,february #a,,st4 ,we met some native traders1 and1 as many of my men were now in a state of nudity1 ,i bought some ,american calico marked ,lawrence ,mills1 ,lowell1 with two small tusks1 and distributed it among the most needy4 ,after leaving ,mozinkwa's we came to the ,zingesi1 a sand-rivulet in flood 7lat4 #ae;d #ch' #cd ,s41 long4 #ca;d #a' ,e474 ,it was sixty or seventy yards wide1 and waist-deep4 ,like all these sand-rivers1 it is for the most part dry2 but by digging down a few feet1 water is to be found1 which is percolating along the bed on a stratum of clay4 ,this is the phenomenon which is dignified by the name of a river flowing under ground4 ,in trying to ford this ,i felt thousands of particles of coarse sand striking my legs1 and the slight disturbance of our footsteps caused deep holes to be made in the bed4 ,the water1 which is almost always very rapid in them1 dug out the sand beneath our feet in a second or two1 and we were all sinking by that means so deep that we were glad to relinquish the attempt to ford it before we got half way over2 the oxen were carried away down into the ,zambesi4 ,these sand-rivers remove vast masses of disintegrated rock before it is fine enough to form soil4 ,the man who preceded me was only thigh-deep1 but the disturbance caused by his feet made it breast-deep for me4 ,the shower of particles and gravel which struck against my legs gave me the idea that the amount of matter removed by every freshet must be very great4 ,in most rivers where much wearing is going on1 a person diving to the bottom may hear literally thousands of stones knocking against each other4 ,this attrition1 being carried on for hundreds of miles in different rivers1 must have an effect greater than if all the pestles and mortars and mills of the world were grinding and wearing away the rocks4 ,the pounding to which ,i refer may be heard most distinctly in the ,vaal ,river1 when that is slightly in flood4 ,it was there ,i first heard it4 ,in the ,leeambye1 in the middle of the country1 where there is no discoloration1 and little carried along but sand1 it is not to be heard4 ,while opposite the village of a head man called ,mosusa1 a number of elephants took refuge on an island in the river4 ,there were two males1 and a third not full grown2 indeed1 scarcely the size of a female4 ,this was the first instance ,i had ever seen of a comparatively young one with the males1 for they usually remain with the female herd till as large as their dams4 ,the inhabitants were very anxious that my men should attack them1 as they go into the gardens on the islands1 and do much damage4 ,the men went1 but the elephants ran about half a mile to the opposite end of the island1 and swam to the main land with their probosces above the water1 and1 no canoe being near1 they escaped4 ,they swim strongly1 with the proboscis erect in the air4 ,i was not very desirous to have one of these animals killed1 for we understood that when we passed ,mpende we came into a country where the game-laws are strictly enforced4 ,the lands of each chief are very well defined1 the boundaries being usually marked by rivulets1 great numbers of which flow into the ,zambesi from both banks1 and1 if an elephant is wounded on one man's land and dies on that of another1 the under half of the carcass is claimed by the lord of the soil2 and so stringent is the law1 that the hunter can not begin at once to cut up his own elephant1 but must send notice to the lord of the soil on which it lies1 and wait until that personage sends one authorized to see a fair partition made4 ,if the hunter should begin to cut up before the agent of the landowner arrives1 he is liable to lose both the tusks and all the flesh4 ,the hind leg of a buffalo must also be given to the man on whose land the animal was grazing1 and a still larger quantity of the eland1 which here and every where else in the country is esteemed right royal food4 ,in the country above ,zumbo we did not find a vestige of this law2 and but for the fact that it existed in the country of the ,bamapela1 far to the south of this1 ,i should have been disposed to regard it in the same light as ,i do the payment for leave to pass--an imposition levied on him who is seen to be weak because in the hands of his slaves4 ,the only game-laws in the interior are1 that the man who first wounds an animal1 though he has inflicted but a mere scratch1 is considered the killer of it2 the second is entitled to a hind quarter1 and the third to a fore leg4 ,the chiefs are generally entitled to a share as tribute2 in some parts it is the breast1 in others the whole of the ribs and one fore leg4 ,i generally respected this law1 although exceptions are sometimes made when animals are killed by guns4 ,the knowledge that he who succeeds in reaching the wounded beast first is entitled to a share stimulates the whole party to greater exertions in dispatching it4 ,one of my men1 having a knowledge of elephant medicine1 was considered the leader in the hunt2 he went before the others1 examined the animals1 and on his decision all depended4 ,if he decided to attack a herd1 the rest went boldly on2 but if he declined1 none of them would engage4 ,a certain part of the elephant belonged to him by right of the office he held1 and such was the faith in medicine held by the slaves of the ,portuguese whom we met hunting1 that they offered to pay this man handsomely if he would show them the elephant medicine4 ,when near ,mosusa's village we passed a rivulet called ,chowe1 now running with rain-water4 ,the inhabitants there extract a little salt from the sand when it is dry1 and all the people of the adjacent country come to purchase it from them4 ,this was the first salt we had met with since leaving ,angola1 for none is to be found in either the country of the ,balonda or ,barotse2 but we heard of salt-pans about a fortnight west of ,naliele1 and ,i got a small supply from ,mpololo while there4 ,that had long since been finished1 and ,i had again lived two months without salt1 suffering no inconvenience except an occasional longing for animal food or milk4 ,in marching along1 the rich reddish-brown soil was so clammy that it was very difficult to walk4 ,it is1 however1 extremely fertile1 and the people cultivate amazing quantities of corn1 maize1 millet1 ground-nuts1 pumpkins1 and cucumbers4 ,we observed that1 when plants failed in one spot1 they were in the habit of transplanting them into another1 and they had also grown large numbers of young plants on the islands1 where they are favored by moisture from the river1 and were now removing them to the main land4 ,the fact of their being obliged to do this shows that there is less rain here than in ,londa1 for there we observed the grain in all stages of its growth at the same time4 ,the people here build their huts in gardens on high stages4 ,this is necessary on account of danger from the spotted hyaena1 which is said to be very fierce1 and also as a protection against lions and elephants4 ,the hyaena is a very cowardly animal1 but frequently approaches persons lying asleep1 and makes an ugly gash on the face4 ,mozinkwa had lost his upper lip in this way1 and ,i have heard of men being killed by them2 children1 too1 are sometimes carried off2 for1 though he is so cowardly that the human voice will make him run away at once1 yet1 when his teeth are in the flesh1 he holds on1 and shows amazing power of jaw4 ,leg-bones of oxen1 from which the natives have extracted the marrow and every thing eatable1 are by this animal crunched up with the greatest ease1 which he apparently effects by turning them round in his teeth till they are in a suitable position for being split4 ,we had now come among people who had plenty1 and were really very liberal4 ,my men never returned from a village without some corn or maize in their hands4 ,the real politeness with which food is given by nearly all the interior tribes1 who have not had much intercourse with ,europeans1 makes it a pleasure to accept4 ,again and again ,i have heard an apology made for the smallness of the present1 or regret expressed that they had not received notice of my approach in time to grind more1 and generally they readily accepted our excuse at having nothing to give in return by saying that they were quite aware that there are no white men's goods in the interior4 ,when ,i had it in my power1 ,i always gave something really useful4 ,to ,katema1 ,shinte1 and others1 ,i gave presents which cost me about #b ,pounds each1 and ,i could return to them at any time without having a character for stinginess4 ,how some men can offer three buttons1 or some other equally contemptible gift1 while they have abundance in their possession1 is to me unaccountable4 ,they surely do not know1 when they write it in their books1 that they are declaring they have compromised the honor of ,englishmen4 ,the people receive the offering with a degree of shame1 and ladies may be seen to hand it quickly to the attendants1 and1 when they retire1 laugh until the tears stand in their eyes1 saying to those about them1 ,is that a white man8 then there are niggards among them too4 ,some of them are born without hearts6 ,one white trader1 having presented an ,,old ,,gun to a chief1 became a standing joke in the tribe3 ,the white man who made a present of a gun that was new when his grandfather was sucking his great-grandmother4 ,when these tricks are repeated1 the natives come to the conclusion that people who show such a want of sense must be told their duty2 they therefore let them know what they ought to give1 and travelers then complain of being pestered with their shameless begging4 ,i was troubled by importunity on the confines of civilization only1 and when ,i first came to ,africa4 ,,february #d,,th4 ,we were much detained by rains1 a heavy shower without wind falling every morning about daybreak2 it often cleared up after that1 admitting of our moving on a few miles4 ,a continuous rain of several hours then set in4 ,the wind up to this point was always from the east1 but both rain and wind now came so generally from the west1 or opposite direction to what we had been accustomed to in the interior1 that we were obliged to make our encampment face the east1 in order to have them in our backs4 ,the country adjacent to the river abounds in large trees2 but the population is so numerous that1 those left being all green1 it is difficult to get dry firewood4 ,on coming to some places1 too1 we were warned by the villagers not to cut the trees growing in certain spots1 as they contained the graves of their ancestors4 ,there are many tamarind-trees1 and another very similar1 which yields a fruit as large as a small walnut1 of which the elephants are very fond4 ,it is called ,motondo1 and the ,portuguese extol its timber as excellent for building boats1 as it does not soon rot in water4 ,on the #fth we came to the village of ,boroma1 which is situated among a number of others1 each surrounded by extensive patches of cultivation4 ,on the opposite side of the river we have a great cluster of conical hills called ,chorichori4 ,boroma did not make his appearance1 but sent a substitute who acted civilly4 ,i sent ,sekwebu in the morning to state that we intended to move on2 his mother replied that1 as she had expected that we should remain1 no food was ready1 but she sent a basket of corn and a fowl4 ,as an excuse why ,boroma did not present himself1 she said that he was seized that morning by the ,barimo1 which probably meant that his lordship was drunk4 ,we marched along the river to a point opposite the hill ,pinkwe 7lat4 #ae;d #ci' #aa ,s41 long4 #cb;d #e' ,e471 but the late abundant rains now flooded the ,zambesi again1 and great quantities of wreck appeared upon the stream4 ,it is probable that frequent freshets1 caused by the rains on this side of the ridge1 have prevented the ,portuguese near the coast from recognizing the one peculiar flood of inundation observed in the interior1 and caused the belief that it is flooded soon after the commencement of the rains4 ,the course of the ,nile being in the opposite direction to this1 it does not receive these subsidiary waters1 and hence its inundation is recognized all the way along its course4 ,if the ,leeambye were prolonged southward into the ,cape ,colony1 its flood would be identical with that of the ,nile4 ,it would not be influenced by any streams in the ,kalahari1 for there1 as in a corresponding part of the ,nile1 there would be no feeders4 ,it is to be remembered that the great ancient river which flowed to the lake at ,boochap took this course exactly1 and probably flowed thither until the fissure of the falls was made4 ,this flood having filled the river1 we found the numerous rivulets which flow into it filled also1 and when going along the ,zambesi1 we lost so much time in passing up each little stream till we could find a ford about waist deep1 and then returning to the bank1 that ,i resolved to leave the river altogether1 and strike away to the southeast4 ,we accordingly struck off when opposite the hill ,pinkwe1 and came into a hard ,mopane country4 ,in a hole of one of the mopane-trees ,i noticed that a squirrel 7',sciurus cepapi'7 had placed a great number of fresh leaves over a store of seed4 ,it is not against the cold of winter that they thus lay up food1 but it is a provision against the hot season1 when the trees have generally no seed4 ,a great many silicified trees are met with lying on the ground all over this part of the country2 some are broken off horizontally1 and stand upright2 others are lying prone1 and broken across into a number of pieces4 ,one was #d feet #h inches in diameter1 and the wood must have been soft like that of the baobab1 for there were only six concentric rings to the inch4 ,as the semidiameter was only #bh inches1 this large tree could have been but #afh years old4 ,i found also a piece of palm-tree transformed into oxide of iron1 and the pores filled with pure silica4 ,these fossil trees lie upon soft gray sandstone containing banks of shingle1 which forms the underlying rock of the country all the way from ,zumbo to near ,lupata4 ,it is met with at ,litubaruba and in ,angola1 with similar banks of shingle imbedded exactly like those now seen on the sea-beach1 but ,i never could find a shell4 ,there are many nodules and mounds of hardened clay upon it1 which seem to have been deposited in eddies made round the roots of these ancient trees1 for they appear of different colors in wavy and twisted lines4 ,above this we have small quantities of calcareous marl4 ,as we were now in the district of ,chicova1 ,i examined the geological structure of the country with interest1 because here1 it has been stated1 there once existed silver mines4 ,the general rock is the gray soft sandstone ,i have mentioned1 but at the rivulet ,bangue we come upon a dike of basalt six yards wide1 running north and south4 ,when we cross this1 we come upon several others1 some of which run more to the eastward4 ,the sandstone is then found to have been disturbed1 and at the rivulet called ,nake we found it tilted up and exhibiting a section1 which was coarse sandstone above1 sandstone-flag1 shale1 and1 lastly1 a thin seam of coal4 ,the section was only shown for a short distance1 and then became lost by a fault made by a dike of basalt1 which ran to the ,e4,n4,e4 in the direction of ,chicova4 ,this ,chicova is not a kingdom1 as has been stated1 but a level tract1 a part of which is annually overflowed by the ,zambesi1 and is well adapted for the cultivation of corn4 ,it is said to be below the northern end of the hill ,bungwe4 ,i was very much pleased in discovering this small specimen of such a precious mineral as coal4 ,i saw no indication of silver1 and1 if it ever was worked by the natives1 it is remarkable that they have entirely lost the knowledge of it1 and can not distinguish between silver and tin4 ,in connection with these basaltic dikes1 it may be mentioned that when ,i reached ,tete ,i was informed of the existence of a small rapid in the river near ,chicova2 had ,i known this previously1 ,i certainly would not have left the river without examining it4 ,it is called ,kebrabasa1 and is described as a number of rocks which jut out across the stream4 ,i have no doubt but that it is formed by some of the basaltic dikes which we now saw1 for they generally ran toward that point4 ,i was partly influenced in leaving the river by a wish to avoid several chiefs in that direction1 who levy a heavy tribute on those who pass up or down4 ,our path lay along the bed of the ,nake for some distance1 the banks being covered with impenetrable thickets4 ,the villages are not numerous1 but we went from one to the other1 and were treated kindly4 ,here they call themselves ,bambiri1 though the general name of the whole nation is ,banyai4 ,one of our guides was an inveterate talker1 always stopping and asking for pay1 that he might go on with a merry heart4 ,i thought that he led us in the most difficult paths in order to make us feel his value1 for1 after passing through one thicket after another1 we always came into the bed of the ,nake again1 and as that was full of coarse sand1 and the water only ankle deep1 and as hot as a foot-bath from the powerful rays of the sun1 we were all completely tired out4 ,he likewise gave us a bad character at every village we passed1 calling to them that they were to allow him to lead us astray1 as we were a bad set4 ,sekwebu knew every word he said1 and1 as he became intolerable1 ,i dismissed him1 giving him six feet of calico ,i had bought from native traders1 and telling him that his tongue was a nuisance4 ,it is in general best1 when a scolding is necessary1 to give it in combination with a present1 and then end it by good wishes4 ,this fellow went off smiling1 and my men remarked1 ,his tongue is cured now4 ,the country around the ,nake is hilly1 and the valleys covered with tangled jungle4 ,the people who live in this district have reclaimed their gardens from the forest1 and the soil is extremely fertile4 ,the ,nake flows northerly1 and then to the east4 ,it is #ej or #fj yards wide1 but during most of the year is dry1 affording water only by digging in the sand4 ,we found in its bed masses of volcanic rock1 identical with those ,i subsequently recognized as such at ,aden4 #ac,,th4 ,the head man of these parts is named ,nyampungo4 ,i sent the last fragment of cloth we had1 with a request that we should be furnished with a guide to the next chief4 ,after a long conference with his council1 the cloth was returned with a promise of compliance1 and a request for some beads only4 ,this man is supposed to possess the charm for rain1 and other tribes send to him to beg it4 ,this shows that what we inferred before was correct1 that less rain falls in this country than in ,londa4 ,nyampungo behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner1 presented me with some rice1 and told my people to go among all the villages and beg for themselves4 ,an old man1 father-in-law of the chief1 told me that he had seen books before1 but never knew what they meant4 ,they pray to departed chiefs and relatives1 but the idea of praying to ,god seemed new1 and they heard it with reverence4 ,as this was an intelligent old man1 ,i asked him about the silver1 but he was as ignorant of it as the rest1 and said1 ,we never dug silver1 but we have washed for gold in the sands of the rivers ,mazoe and ,luia1 which unite in the ,luenya4 ,i think that this is quite conclusive on the question of no silver having been dug by the natives of this district4 ,nyampungo is afflicted with a kind of disease called ,sesenda1 which ,i imagine to be a species of leprosy common in this quarter1 though they are a cleanly people4 ,they never had cattle4 ,the chief's father had always lived in their present position1 and1 when ,i asked him why he did not possess these useful animals1 he said1 ,who would give us the medicine to enable us to keep them8 ,i found out the reason afterward in the prevalence of tsetse1 but of this he was ignorant1 having supposed that he could not keep cattle because he had no medicine4 ,chapter #cj4 ,an ,elephant-hunt--,offering and ,prayers to the ,barimo for ,success-- ,native ,mode of ,expression--,working of ,game-laws--,a ,feast--,laughing ,hyaenas--,numerous ,insects--,curious ,notes of ,birds of ,song-- ,caterpillars--,butterflies--,silica--,t he ,fruit ,makoronga and ,elephants --,rhinoceros ,adventure--,korwe ,bird--,its ,nest--,a real ,confinement-- ,honey and ,beeswax--,superstitious ,reverence for the ,lion--,slow ,traveling--,grapes--,the ,ue--,monina's ,village--,native ,names--,government of the ,banyai--,electing a ,chief--,youths instructed in ,bonyai--,suspected of ,falsehood--,war-dance--,insanity and ,disappearance of ,monahin--,fruitless ,search--,monina's ,sympathy--,the ,sand-river ,tangwe--,the ,ordeal ,muavi3 its ,victims--,an unreasonable ,man--,woman's ,rights--,presents--,temperance--,a winding ,course to shun ,villages-- ,banyai ,complexion and ,hair--,mushrooms--,the ,tubers1 ,mokuri--,the ,tree ,shekabakadzi--,face of the ,country--,pot-holes--,pursued by a ,party of ,natives--,unpleasant ,threat--,aroused by a ,company of ,soldiers--,a civilized ,breakfast--,arrival at ,tete4 #ad,,th4 ,we left ,nyampungo this morning4 ,the path wound up the ,molinge1 another sand-river which flows into the ,nake4 ,when we got clear of the tangled jungle which covers the banks of these rivulets1 we entered the ,mopane country1 where we could walk with comfort4 ,when we had gone on a few hours1 my men espied an elephant1 and were soon in full pursuit4 ,they were in want of meat1 having tasted nothing but grain for several days4 ,the desire for animal food made them all eager to slay him1 and1 though an old bull1 he was soon killed4 ,the people of ,nyampungo had never seen such desperadoes before4 ,one rushed up and hamstrung the beast1 while still standing1 by a blow with an axe4 ,some ,banyai elephant-hunters happened to be present when my men were fighting with him4 ,one of them took out his snuff-box1 and poured out all its contents at the root of a tree as an offering to the ,barimo for success4 ,as soon as the animal fell1 the whole of my party engaged in a wild1 savage dance round the body1 which quite frightened the ,banyai1 and he who made the offering said to me1 ,i see you are traveling with people who don't know how to pray3 ,i therefore offered the only thing ,i had in their behalf1 and the elephant soon fell4 ,one of ,nyampungo's men1 who remained with me1 ran a little forward1 when an opening in the trees gave us a view of the chase1 and uttered loud prayers for success in the combat4 ,i admired the devout belief they all possessed in the actual existence of unseen beings1 and prayed that they might yet know that benignant ,one who views us all as his own4 ,my own people1 who are rather a degraded lot1 remarked to me as ,i came up1 ,god gave it to us4 ,he said to the old beast1 ',go up there2 men are come who will kill and eat you4' ,these remarks are quoted to give the reader an idea of the native mode of expression4 ,as we were now in the country of stringent game-laws1 we were obliged to send all the way back to ,nyampungo1 to give information to a certain person who had been left there by the real owner of this district to watch over his property1 the owner himself living near the ,zambesi4 ,the side upon which the elephant fell had a short1 broken tusk2 the upper one1 which was ours1 was large and thick4 ,the ,banyai remarked on our good luck4 ,the men sent to give notice came back late in the afternoon of the following day4 ,they brought a basket of corn1 a fowl1 and a few strings of handsome beads1 as a sort of thank-offering for our having killed it on their land1 and said they had thanked the ,barimo besides for our success1 adding1 ,there it is2 eat it and be glad4 ,had we begun to cut it up before we got this permission1 we should have lost the whole4 ,they had brought a large party to eat their half1 and they divided it with us in a friendly way4 ,my men were delighted with the feast1 though1 by lying unopened a whole day1 the carcass was pretty far gone4 ,an astonishing number of hyaenas collected round1 and kept up a loud laughter for two whole nights4 ,some of them do make a very good imitation of a laugh4 ,i asked my men what the hyaenas were laughing at1 as they usually give animals credit for a share of intelligence4 ,they said that they were laughing because we could not take the whole1 and that they would have plenty to eat as well as we4 ,on coming to the part where the elephant was slain1 we passed through grass so tall that it reminded me of that in the valley of ,cassange4 ,insects are very numerous after the rains commence4 ,while waiting by the elephant1 ,i observed a great number of insects1 like grains of fine sand1 moving on my boxes4 ,on examination with a glass1 four species were apparent2 one of green and gold preening its wings1 which glanced in the sun with metallic lustre2 another clear as crystal2 a third of the color of vermilion2 and a fourth black4 ,these are probably some of those which consume the seeds of every plant that grows4 ,almost every kind has its own peculiar insect1 and when the rains are over very few seeds remain untouched4 ,the rankest poisons1 as the ,kongwhane and ,euphorbia1 are soon devoured2 the former has a scarlet insect2 and even the fiery bird's-eye pepper1 which will keep off many others from their own seeds1 is itself devoured by a maggot4 ,i observed here1 what ,i had often seen before1 that certain districts abound in centipedes4 ,here they have light reddish bodies and blue legs2 great myriapedes are seen crawling every where4 ,although they do no harm1 they excite in man a feeling of loathing4 ,perhaps our appearance produces a similar feeling in the elephant and other large animals4 ,where they have been much disturbed1 they certainly look upon us with great distrust1 as the horrid biped that ruins their peace4 ,in the quietest parts of the forest there is heard a faint but distinct hum1 which tells of insect joy4 ,one may see many whisking about in the clear sunshine in patches among the green glancing leaves2 but there are invisible myriads working with never-tiring mandibles on leaves1 and stalks1 and beneath the soil4 ,they are all brimful of enjoyment4 ,indeed1 the universality of organic life may be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world1 and imparts the idea of its being caused by the consciousness of our benignant ,father's smile on all the works of ,his hands4 ,the birds of the tropics have been described as generally wanting in power of song4 ,i was decidedly of opinion that this was not applicable to many parts in ,londa1 though birds there are remarkably scarce4 ,here the chorus1 or body of song1 was not much smaller in volume than it is in ,england4 ,it was not so harmonious1 and sounded always as if the birds were singing in a foreign tongue4 ,some resemble the lark1 and1 indeed1 there are several of that family2 two have notes not unlike those of the thrush4 ,one brought the chaffinch to my mind1 and another the robin2 but their songs are intermixed with several curious abrupt notes unlike any thing ,english4 ,one utters deliberately peek1 pak1 pok2 another has a single note like a stroke on a violin-string4 ,the mokwa reza gives forth a screaming set of notes like our blackbird when disturbed1 then concludes with what the natives say is pula1 pula 7rain1 rain71 but more like weep1 weep1 weep4 ,then we have the loud cry of francolins1 the pumpuru1 pumpuru of turtle-doves1 and the chiken1 chiken1 chik1 churr1 churr of the honey-guide4 ,occasionally1 near villages1 we have a kind of mocking-bird1 imitating the calls of domestic fowls4 ,these ,african birds have not been wanting in song2 they have only lacked poets to sing their praises1 which ours have had from the time of ,aristophanes downward4 ,ours have both a classic and a modern interest to enhance their fame4 ,in hot1 dry weather1 or at midday when the sun is fierce1 all are still3 let1 however1 a good shower fall1 and all burst forth at once into merry lays and loving courtship4 ,the early mornings and the cool evenings are their favorite times for singing4 ,there are comparatively few with gaudy plumage1 being totally unlike1 in this respect1 the birds of the ,brazils4 ,the majority have decidedly a sober dress1 though collectors1 having generally selected the gaudiest as the most valuable1 have conveyed the idea that the birds of the tropics for the most part possess gorgeous plumage4 #ae,,th4 ,several of my men have been bitten by spiders and other insects1 but no effect except pain has followed4 ,a large caterpillar is frequently seen1 called lezuntabuea4 ,it is covered with long gray hairs1 and1 the body being dark1 it resembles a porcupine in miniature4 ,if one touches it1 the hairs run into the pores of the skin1 and remain there1 giving sharp pricks4 ,there are others which have a similar means of defense2 and when the hand is drawn across them1 as in passing a bush on which they happen to be1 the contact resembles the stinging of nettles4 ,from the great number of caterpillars seen1 we have a considerable variety of butterflies4 ,one particular kind flies more like a swallow than a butterfly4 ,they are not remarkable for the gaudiness of their colors4 ,in passing along we crossed the hills ,vungue or ,mvungwe1 which we found to be composed of various eruptive rocks4 ,at one part we have breccia of altered marl or slate in quartz1 and various amygdaloids4 ,it is curious to observe the different forms which silica assumes4 ,we have it in claystone porphyry here1 in minute round globules1 no larger than turnip-seed1 dotted thickly over the matrix2 or crystallized round the walls of cavities1 once filled with air or other elastic fluid2 or it may appear in similar cavities as tufts of yellow asbestos1 or as red1 yellow1 or green crystals1 or in laminae so arranged as to appear like fossil wood4 ,vungue forms the watershed between those sand rivulets which run to the ,n4,e41 and others which flow southward1 as the ,kapopo1 ,ue1 and ,due1 which run into the ,luia4 ,we found that many elephants had been feeding on the fruit called ,mokoronga4 ,this is a black-colored plum1 having purple juice4 ,we all ate it in large quantities1 as we found it delicious4 ,the only defect it has is the great size of the seed in comparison with the pulp4 ,this is the chief fault of all uncultivated wild fruits4 ,the ,mokoronga exists throughout this part of the country most abundantly1 and the natives eagerly devour it1 as it is said to be perfectly wholesome1 or1 as they express it1 ,it is pure fat1 and fat is by them considered the best of food4 ,though only a little larger than a cherry1 we found that the elephants had stood picking them off patiently by the hour4 ,we observed the footprints of a black rhinoceros 7',rhinoceros bicornis'1 ,linn47 and her calf4 ,we saw other footprints among the hills of ,semalembue1 but the black rhinoceros is remarkably scarce in all the country north of the ,zambesi4 ,the white rhinoceros 7',rhinoceros simus' of ,burchell71 or ,mohohu of the ,bechuanas1 is quite extinct here1 and will soon become unknown in the country to the south4 ,it feeds almost entirely on grasses1 and is of a timid1 unsuspecting disposition3 this renders it an easy prey1 and they are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction of fire-arms4 ,the black possesses a more savage nature1 and1 like the ill-natured in general1 is never found with an ounce of fat in its body4 ,from its greater fierceness and wariness1 it holds its place in a district much longer than its more timid and better-conditioned neighbor4 ,mr4 ,oswell was once stalking two of these beasts1 and1 as they came slowly to him1 he1 knowing that there is but little chance of hitting the small brain of this animal by a shot in the head1 lay expecting one of them to give his shoulder till he was within a few yards4 ,the hunter then thought that by making a rush to his side he might succeed in escaping1 but the rhinoceros1 too quick for that1 turned upon him1 and1 though he discharged his gun close to the animal's head1 he was tossed in the air4 ,my friend was insensible for some time1 and1 on recovering1 found large wounds on the thigh and body3 ,i saw that on the former part still open1 and five inches long4 ,the white1 however1 is not always quite safe1 for one1 even after it was mortally wounded1 attacked ,mr4 ,oswell's horse1 and thrust the horn through to the saddle1 tossing at the time both horse and rider4 ,i once saw a white rhinoceros give a buffalo1 which was gazing intently at myself1 a poke in the chest1 but it did not wound it1 and seemed only a hint to get out of the way4 ,four varieties of the rhinoceros are enumerated by naturalists1 but my observation led me to conclude that there are but two1 and that the extra species have been formed from differences in their sizes1 ages1 and the direction of the horns1 as if we should reckon the short-horned cattle a different species from the ,alderneys or the ,highland breed4 ,i was led to this from having once seen a black rhinoceros with a horn bent downward like that of the kuabaoba1 and also because the animals of the two great varieties differ very much in appearance at different stages of their growth4 ,i find1 however1 that ,dr4 ,smith1 the best judge in these matters1 is quite decided as to the propriety of the subdivision into three or four species4 ,for common readers1 it is sufficient to remember that there are two well-defined species1 that differ entirely in appearance and food4 ,the absence of both these rhinoceroses among the reticulated rivers in the central valley may easily be accounted for1 they would be such an easy prey to the natives in their canoes at the periods of inundation2 but one can not so readily account for the total absence of the giraffe and ostrich on the high open lands of the ,batoka1 north of the ,zambesi1 unless we give credence to the native report which bounds the country still farther north by another network of waters near ,lake ,shuia1 and suppose that it also prevented their progress southward4 ,the ,batoka have no name for the giraffe or the ostrich in their language2 yet1 as the former exists in considerable numbers in the angle formed by the ,leeambye and ,chobe1 they may have come from the north along the western ridge4 ,the ,chobe would seem to have been too narrow to act as an obstacle to the giraffe1 supposing it to have come into that district from the south2 but the broad river into which that stream flows seems always to have presented an impassable barrier to both the giraffe and the ostrich1 though they abound on its southern border1 both in the ,kalahari ,desert and the country of ,mashona4 ,we passed through large tracts of ,mopane country1 and my men caught a great many of the birds called ,korwe 7',tockus erythrorhynchus'7 in their breeding-places1 which were in holes in the mopane-trees4 ,on the #aith we passed the nest of a korwe just ready for the female to enter2 the orifice was plastered on both sides1 but a space was left of a heart shape1 and exactly the size of the bird's body4 ,the hole in the tree was in every case found to be prolonged some distance upward above the opening1 and thither the korwe always fled to escape being caught4 ,in another nest we found that one white egg1 much like that of a pigeon1 was laid1 and the bird dropped another when captured4 ,she had four besides in the ovarium4 ,the first time that ,i saw this bird was at ,kolobeng1 where ,i had gone to the forest for some timber4 ,standing by a tree1 a native looked behind me and exclaimed1 ,there is the nest of a korwe4 ,i saw a slit only1 about half an inch wide and three or four inches long1 in a slight hollow of the tree4 ,thinking the word korwe denoted some small animal1 ,i waited with interest to see what he would extract2 he broke the clay which surrounded the slit1 put his arm into the hole1 and brought out a ',tockus'1 or 'red-beaked hornbill'1 which he killed4 ,he informed me that1 when the female enters her nest1 she submits to a real confinement4 ,the male plasters up the entrance1 leaving only a narrow slit by which to feed his mate1 and which exactly suits the form of his beak4 ,the female makes a nest of her own feathers1 lays her eggs1 hatches them1 and remains with the young till they are fully fledged4 ,during all this time1 which is stated to be two or three months1 the male continues to feed her and the young family4 ,the prisoner generally becomes quite fat1 and is esteemed a very dainty morsel by the natives1 while the poor slave of a husband gets so lean that1 on the sudden lowering of the temperature which sometimes happens after a fall of rain1 he is benumbed1 falls down1 and dies4 ,i never had an opportunity of ascertaining the actual length of the confinement1 but on passing the same tree at ,kolobeng about eight days afterward the hole was plastered up again1 as if1 in the short time that had elapsed1 the disconsolate husband had secured another wife4 ,we did not disturb her1 and my duties prevented me from returning to the spot4 ,this is the month in which the female enters the nest4 ,we had seen one of these1 as before mentioned1 with the plastering not quite finished2 we saw many completed2 and we received the very same account here that we did at ,kolobeng1 that the bird comes forth when the young are fully fledged1 at the period when the corn is ripe2 indeed1 her appearance abroad with her young is one of the signs they have for knowing when it ought to be so4 ,as that is about the end of ,april1 the time is between two and three months4 ,she is said sometimes to hatch two eggs1 and1 when the young of these are full-fledged1 other two are just out of the egg-shells3 she then leaves the nest with the two elder1 the orifice is again plastered up1 and both male and female attend to the wants of the young which are left4 ,on several occasions ,i observed a branch bearing the marks of the male having often sat upon it when feeding his mate1 and the excreta had been expelled a full yard from the orifice1 and often proved a means of discovering the retreat4 ,the honey-guides were very assiduous in their friendly offices1 and enabled my men to get a large quantity of honey4 ,but1 though bees abound1 the wax of these parts forms no article of trade4 ,in ,londa it may be said to be fully cared for1 as you find hives placed upon trees in the most lonesome forests4 ,we often met strings of carriers laden with large blocks of this substance1 each #hj or #ajj lbs4 in weight1 and pieces were offered to us for sale at every village2 but here we never saw a single artificial hive4 ,the bees were always found in the natural cavities of mopane-trees4 ,it is probable that the good market for wax afforded to ,angola by the churches of ,brazil led to the gradual development of that branch of commerce there4 ,i saw even on the banks of the ,quango as much as sixpence paid for a pound4 ,in many parts of the ,batoka country bees exist in vast numbers1 and the tribute due to ,sekeletu is often paid in large jars of honey2 but1 having no market nor use for the wax1 it is thrown away4 ,this was the case also with ivory at the ,lake ,ngami1 at the period of its discovery4 ,the reports brought by my other party from ,loanda of the value of wax had induced some of my present companions to bring small quantities of it to ,tete1 but1 not knowing the proper mode of preparing it1 it was so dark colored that no one would purchase it2 ,i afterward saw a little at ,kilimane which had been procured from the natives somewhere in this region4 ,though we are now approaching the ,portuguese settlement1 the country is still full of large game4 ,my men killed six buffalo calves out of a herd we met4 ,the abundance of these animals1 and also of antelopes1 shows the insufficiency of the bow and arrow to lessen their numbers4 ,there are also a great many lions and hyaenas1 and there is no check upon the increase of the former1 for the people1 believing that the souls of their chiefs enter into them1 never attempt to kill them2 they even believe that a chief may metamorphose himself into a lion1 kill any one he chooses1 and then return to the human form2 therefore1 when they see one1 they commence clapping their hands1 which is the usual mode of salutation here4 ,the consequence is1 that lions and hyaenas are so abundant that we see little huts made in the trees1 indicating the places where some of the inhabitants have slept when benighted in the fields4 ,as numbers of my men frequently left the line of march in order to take out the korwes from their nests1 or follow the honey-guides1 they excited the astonishment of our guides1 who were constantly warning them of the danger they thereby incurred from lions4 ,i was often considerably ahead of the main body of my men on this account1 and was obliged to stop every hour or two2 but1 the sun being excessively hot by day1 ,i was glad of the excuse for resting4 ,we could make no such prodigious strides as officers in the ,arctic regions are able to do4 ,ten or twelve miles a day were a good march for both the men and myself2 and it was not the length of the marches1 but continuing day after day to perform the same distance1 that was so fatiguing4 ,it was in this case much longer than appears on the map1 because we kept out of the way of villages4 ,i drank less than the natives when riding1 but all my clothing was now constantly damp from the moisture which was imbibed in large quantities at every pond4 ,one does not stay on these occasions to prepare water with alum or any thing else1 but drinks any amount without fear4 ,i never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying lands of the ,zambesi1 and yet it was becoming cooler than it was on the highlands4 ,we crossed the rivulets ,kapopo and ,ue1 now running1 but usually dry4 ,there are great numbers of wild grape-vines growing in this quarter2 indeed1 they abound every where along the banks of the ,zambesi4 ,in the ,batoka country there is a variety which yields a black grape of considerable sweetness4 ,the leaves are very large and harsh1 as if capable of withstanding the rays of this hot sun2 but the most common kinds--one with a round leaf and a greenish grape1 and another with a leaf closely resembling that of the cultivated varieties1 and with dark or purple fruit--have large seeds1 which are strongly astringent1 and render it a disagreeable fruit4 ,the natives eat all the varieties2 and ,i tasted vinegar made by a ,portuguese from these grapes4 ,probably a country which yields the wild vines so very abundantly might be a fit one for the cultivated species4 ,at this part of the journey so many of the vines had run across the little footpath we followed that one had to be constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped4 ,the ground was covered with rounded shingle1 which was not easily seen among the grass4 ,pedestrianism may be all very well for those whose obesity requires much exercise1 but for one who was becoming as thin as a lath1 through the constant perspiration caused by marching day after day in the hot sun1 the only good ,i saw in it was that it gave an honest sort of man a vivid idea of the tread-mill4 ,although the rains were not quite over1 great numbers of pools were drying up1 and the ground was in many parts covered with small green cryptogamous plants1 which gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell4 ,as we sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation which hung over our path1 we felt a sort of hot blast on our faces4 ,every thing looked unwholesome1 but we had no fever4 ,the ,ue flows between high banks of a soft red sandstone streaked with white1 and pieces of tufa4 ,the crumbling sandstone is evidently alluvial1 and is cut into #ab feet deep4 ,in this region1 too1 we met with pot-holes six feet deep and three or four in diameter4 ,in some cases they form convenient wells2 in others they are full of earth2 and in others still the people have made them into graves for their chiefs4 ,on the #bjth we came to ,monina's village 7close to the sand-river ,tangwe1 latitude #af;d #ac' #ch south1 longitude #cb;d #cb' east74 ,this man is very popular among the tribes on account of his liberality4 ,boroma1 ,nyampungo1 ,monina1 ,jira1 ,katolosa 7,monomotapa71 and ,susa1 all acknowledge the supremacy of one called ,nyatewe1 who is reported to decide all disputes respecting land4 ,this confederation is exactly similar to what we observed in ,londa and other parts of ,africa4 ,katolosa is the ,emperor ,monomotapa of history1 but he is a chief of no great power1 and acknowledges the supremacy of ,nyatewe4 ,the ,portuguese formerly honored ,monomotapa with a guard1 to fire off numbers of guns on the occasion of any funeral1 and he was also partially subsidized4 ,the only evidence of greatness possessed by his successor is his having about a hundred wives4 ,when he dies a disputed succession and much fighting are expected4 ,in reference to the term ,monomotapa1 it is to be remembered that ,mono1 ,moene1 ,mona1 ,mana1 or ,morena1 mean simply 'chief'1 and considerable confusion has arisen from naming different people by making a plural of the chief's name4 ,the names ,monomoizes1 spelled also ,monemuiges and ,monomuizes1 and ,monomotapistas1 when applied to these tribes1 are exactly the same as if we should call the ,scotch the ,lord ,douglases4 ,motape was the chief of the ,bambiri1 a tribe of the ,banyai1 and is now represented in the person of ,katolosa4 ,he was probably a man of greater energy than his successor1 yet only an insignificant chief4 ,monomoizes was formed from ,moiza or ,muiza1 the singular of the word ,babisa or ,aiza1 the proper name of a large tribe to the north4 ,in the transformation of this name the same error has been committed as in the others2 and mistakes have occurred in many other names by inattention to the meaning1 and predilection for the letter ,r4 ,the ,river ,loangwa1 for instance1 has been termed ,arroangoa1 and the ,luenya the ,ruanha4 ,the ,bazizulu1 or ,mashona1 are spoken of as the ,morururus4 ,the government of the ,banyai is rather peculiar1 being a sort of feudal republicanism4 ,the chief is elected1 and they choose the son of the deceased chief's sister in preference to his own offspring4 ,when dissatisfied with one candidate1 they even go to a distant tribe for a successor1 who is usually of the family of the late chief1 a brother1 or a sister's son1 but never his own son or daughter4 ,when first spoken to on the subject1 he answers as if he thought himself unequal to the task and unworthy of the honor2 but1 having accepted it1 all the wives1 goods1 and children of his predecessor belong to him1 and he takes care to keep them in a dependent position4 ,when any one of them becomes tired of this state of vassalage and sets up his own village1 it is not unusual for the elected chief to send a number of the young men1 who congregate about himself1 to visit him4 ,if he does not receive them with the usual amount of clapping of hands and humility1 they1 in obedience to orders1 at once burn his village4 ,the children of the chief have fewer privileges than common free men4 ,they may not be sold1 but1 rather than choose any one of them for a chief at any future time1 the free men would prefer to elect one of themselves1 who bore only a very distant relationship to the family4 ,these free men are a distinct class who can never be sold2 and under them there is a class of slaves whose appearance as well as position is very degraded4 ,monina had a great number of young men about him from twelve to fifteen years of age4 ,these were all sons of free men1 and bands of young men like them in the different districts leave their parents about the age of puberty1 and live with such men as ,monina for the sake of instruction4 ,when ,i asked the nature of the instruction1 ,i was told ,bonyai1 which ,i suppose may be understood as indicating manhood1 for it sounds as if we should say1 to teach an ,american ,americanism1 or an ,englishman to be ,english4 ,while here they are kept in subjection to rather stringent regulations4 ,they must salute carefully by clapping their hands on approaching a superior1 and when any cooked food is brought1 the young men may not approach the dish1 but an elder divides a portion to each4 ,they remain unmarried until a fresh set of youths is ready to occupy their place under the same instruction4 ,the parents send servants with their sons to cultivate gardens to supply them with food1 and also tusks to ,monina to purchase clothing for them4 ,when the lads return to the village of their parents1 a case is submitted to them for adjudication1 and if they speak well on the point1 the parents are highly gratified4 ,when we told ,monina that we had nothing to present but some hoes1 he replied that he was not in need of those articles1 and that he had absolute power over the country in front1 and if he prevented us from proceeding1 no one would say any thing to him4 ,his little boy ,boromo having come to the encampment to look at us1 ,i gave him a knife1 and he went off and brought a pint of honey for me4 ,the father came soon afterward1 and ,i offered him a shirt4 ,he remarked to his councilors1 ,it is evident that this man has nothing1 for1 if he had1 his people would be buying provisions1 but we don't see them going about for that purpose4 ,his council did not agree in this4 ,they evidently believed that we had goods1 but kept them hid1 and we felt it rather hard to be suspected of falsehood4 ,it was probably at their suggestion that in the evening a wardance was got up about a hundred yards from our encampment1 as if to put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents4 ,some of ,monina's young men had guns1 but most were armed with large bows1 arrows1 and spears4 ,they beat their drums furiously1 and occasionally fired off a gun4 ,as this sort of dance is never got up unless there is an intention to attack1 my men expected an assault4 ,we sat and looked at them for some time1 and then1 as it became dark1 lay down1 all ready to give them a warm reception4 ,but an hour or two after dark the dance ceased1 and1 as we then saw no one approaching us1 we went to sleep4 ,during the night1 one of my head men1 ,monahin1 was seen to get up1 look toward the village1 and say to one who was half awake1 ,don't you hear what these people are saying8 ,go and listen4 ,he then walked off in the opposite direction1 and never returned4 ,we had no guard set1 but every one lay with his spear in his hand4 ,the man to whom he spoke appears to have been in a dreamy condition1 for it did not strike him that he ought to give the alarm4 ,next morning ,i found to my sorrow that ,monahin was gone1 and not a trace of him could be discovered4 ,he had an attack of pleuritis some weeks before1 and had recovered1 but latterly complained a little of his head4 ,i observed him in good spirits on the way hither1 and in crossing some of the streams1 as ,i was careful not to wet my feet1 he aided me1 and several times joked at my becoming so light4 ,in the evening he sat beside my tent until it was dark1 and did not manifest any great alarm4 ,it was probably either a sudden fit of insanity1 or1 having gone a little way out from the camp1 he may have been carried off by a lion1 as this part of the country is full of them4 ,i incline to the former opinion1 because sudden insanity occurs when there is any unusual strain upon their minds4 ,monahin was in command of the ,batoka of ,mokwine in my party1 and he was looked upon with great dislike by all that chief's subjects4 ,the only difficulties ,i had with them arose in consequence of being obliged to give orders through him4 ,they said ,mokwine is reported to have been killed by the ,makololo1 but ,monahin is the individual who put forth his hand and slew him4 ,when one of these people kills in battle1 he seems to have no compunction afterward2 but when he makes a foray on his own responsibility1 and kills a man of note1 the common people make remarks to each other1 which are reported to him1 and bring the affair perpetually to his remembrance4 ,this iteration on the conscience causes insanity1 and when one runs away in a wide country like this1 the fugitive is never heard of4 ,monahin had lately become afraid of his own party from overhearing their remarks1 and said more than once to me1 ,they want to kill me4 ,i believe if he ran to any village they would take care of him4 ,i felt his loss greatly1 and spent three days in searching for him4 ,he was a sensible and most obliging man4 ,i sent in the morning to inform ,monina of this sad event1 and he at once sent to all the gardens around1 desiring the people to look for him1 and1 should he come near1 to bring him home4 ,he evidently sympathized with us in our sorrow1 and1 afraid lest we might suspect him1 added1 ,we never catch nor kidnap people here4 ,it is not our custom4 ,it is considered as guilt among all the tribes4 ,i gave him credit for truthfulness1 and he allowed us to move on without farther molestation4 ,after leaving his village we marched in the bed of a sand-river a quarter of a mile broad1 called ,tangwe4 ,walking on this sand is as fatiguing as walking on snow4 ,the country is flat1 and covered with low trees1 but we see high hills in the distance4 ,a little to the south we have those of the ,lobole4 ,this region is very much infested by lions1 and men never go any distance into the woods alone4 ,having turned aside on one occasion at midday1 and gone a short distance among grass a little taller than myself1 an animal sprung away from me which was certainly not an antelope1 but ,i could not distinguish whether it was a lion or a hyaena4 ,this abundance of carnivora made us lose all hope of ,monahin4 ,we saw footprints of many black rhinoceroses1 buffaloes1 and zebras4 ,after a few hours we reached the village of ,nyakoba4 ,two men1 who accompanied us from ,monina to ,nyakoba's1 would not believe us when we said that we had no beads4 ,it is very trying to have one's veracity doubted1 but1 on opening the boxes1 and showing them that all ,i had was perfectly useless to them1 they consented to receive some beads off ,sekwebu's waist1 and ,i promised to send four yards of calico from ,tete4 ,as we came away from ,monina's village1 a witch-doctor1 who had been sent for1 arrived1 and all ,monina's wives went forth into the fields that morning fasting4 ,there they would be compelled to drink an infusion of a plant named goho1 which is used as an ordeal4 ,this ceremony is called muavi1 and is performed in this way4 ,when a man suspects that any of his wives has bewitched him1 he sends for the witch-doctor1 and all the wives go forth into the field1 and remain fasting till that person has made an infusion of the plant4 ,they all drink it1 each one holding up her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocency4 ,those who vomit it are considered innocent1 while those whom it purges are pronounced guilty1 and put to death by burning4 ,the innocent return to their homes1 and slaughter a cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spirits4 ,the practice of ordeal is common among all the negro nations north of the ,zambesi4 ,this summary procedure excited my surprise1 for my intercourse with the natives here had led me to believe that the women were held in so much estimation that the men would not dare to get rid of them thus4 ,but the explanation ,i received was this4 ,the slightest imputation makes them eagerly desire the test2 they are conscious of being innocent1 and have the fullest faith in the muavi detecting the guilty alone2 hence they go willingly1 and even eagerly1 to drink it4 ,when in ,angola1 a half-caste was pointed out to me who is one of the most successful merchants in that country2 and the mother of this gentleman1 who was perfectly free1 went1 of her own accord1 all the way from ,ambaca to ,cassange1 to be killed by the ordeal1 her rich son making no objection4 ,the same custom prevails among the ,barotse1 ,bashubia1 and ,batoka1 but with slight variations4 ,the ,barotse1 for instance1 pour the medicine down the throat of a cock or of a dog1 and judge of the innocence or guilt of the person accused according to the vomiting or purging of the animal4 ,i happened to mention to my own men the water-test for witches formerly in use in ,scotland3 the supposed witch1 being bound hand and foot1 was thrown into a pond2 if she floated1 she was considered guilty1 taken out1 and burned2 but if she sank and was drowned1 she was pronounced innocent4 ,the wisdom of my ancestors excited as much wonder in their minds as their custom did in mine4 ,the person whom ,nyakoba appointed to be our guide1 having informed us of the decision1 came and bargained that his services should be rewarded with a hoe4 ,i had no objection to give it1 and showed him the article2 he was delighted with it1 and went off to show it to his wife4 ,he soon afterward returned1 and said that1 though he was perfectly willing to go1 his wife would not let him4 ,i said1 ,then bring back the hoe2 but he replied1 ,i want it4 ,well1 go with us1 and you shall have it4 ,but my wife won't let me4 ,i remarked to my men1 ,did you ever hear such a fool8 ,they answered1 ,oh1 that is the custom of these parts2 the wives are the masters4 ,and ,sekwebu informed me that he had gone to this man's house1 and heard him saying to his wife1 ,do you think that ,i would ever leave you8 then1 turning to ,sekwebu1 he asked1 ,do you think ,i would leave this pretty woman8 ,is she not pretty8 ,sekwebu had been making inquiries among the people1 and had found that the women indeed possessed a great deal of influence4 ,we questioned the guide whom we finally got from ,nyakoba1 an intelligent young man1 who had much of the ,arab features1 and found the statements confirmed4 ,when a young man takes a liking for a girl of another village1 and the parents have no objection to the match1 he is obliged to come and live at their village4 ,he has to perform certain services for the mother-in-law1 such as keeping her well supplied with firewood2 and when he comes into her presence he is obliged to sit with his knees in a bent position1 as putting out his feet toward the old lady would give her great offense4 ,if he becomes tired of living in this state of vassalage1 and wishes to return to his own family1 he is obliged to leave all his children behind--they belong to the wife4 ,this is only a more stringent enforcement of the law from which emanates the practice which prevails so very extensively in ,africa1 known to ,europeans as buying wives4 ,such virtually it is1 but it does not appear quite in that light to the actors4 ,so many head of cattle or goats are given to the parents of the girl to give her up1 as it is termed1 i4e41 to forego all claim on her offspring1 and allow an entire transference of her and her seed into another family4 ,if nothing is given1 the family from which she has come can claim the children as part of itself3 the payment is made to sever this bond4 ,in the case supposed1 the young man has not been able to advance any thing for that purpose2 and1 from the temptations placed here before my men1 ,i have no doubt that some prefer to have their daughters married in that way1 as it leads to the increase of their own village4 ,my men excited the admiration of the ,bambiri1 who took them for a superior breed on account of their bravery in elephant-hunting1 and wished to get them as sons-in-law on the conditions named1 but none yielded to the temptation4 ,we were informed that there is a child belonging to a half-caste ,portuguese in one of these tribes1 and the father had tried in vain to get him from the mother's parents4 ,we saw several things to confirm the impression of the higher position which women hold here2 and1 being anxious to discover if ,i were not mistaken1 when we came among the ,portuguese ,i inquired of them1 and was told that they had ascertained the same thing2 and that1 if they wished a man to perform any service for them1 he would reply1 ,well1 ,i shall go and ask my wife4 ,if she consented1 he would go1 and perform his duty faithfully2 but no amount of coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she refused4 ,the ,portuguese praised the appearance of the ,banyai1 and they certainly are a fine race4 ,we got on better with ,nyakoba than we expected4 ,he has been so much affected by the sesenda that he is quite decrepit1 and requires to be fed4 ,i at once showed his messenger that we had nothing whatever to give4 ,nyakoba was offended with him for not believing me1 and he immediately sent a basket of maize and another of corn1 saying that he believed my statement1 and would send men with me to ,tete who would not lead me to any other village4 ,the birds here sing very sweetly1 and ,i thought ,i heard the canary1 as in ,londa4 ,we had a heavy shower of rain1 and ,i observed that the thermometer sank #ad ,deg4 in one hour afterward4 ,from the beginning of ,february we experienced a sensible diminution of temperature4 ,in ,january the lowest was #ge ,deg41 and that at sunrise2 the average at the same hour 7sunrise7 being #gi ,deg42 at #c ,p4,m41 #ij ,deg42 and at sunset1 #hb ,deg4 ,in ,february it fell as low as #gj ,deg4 in the course of the night1 and the average height was #hh ,deg4 ,only once did it rise to #id ,deg41 and a thunder-storm followed this2 yet the sensation of heat was greater now than it had been at much higher temperatures on more elevated lands4 ,we passed several villages by going roundabout ways through the forest4 ,we saw the remains of a lion that had been killed by a buffalo1 and the horns of a putokwane 7black antelope71 the finest ,i had ever seen1 which had met its death by a lion4 ,the drums1 beating all night in one village near which we slept1 showed that some person in it had finished his course4 ,on the occasion of the death of a chief1 a trader is liable to be robbed1 for the people consider themselves not amenable to law until a new one is elected4 ,we continued a very winding course1 in order to avoid the chief ,katolosa1 who is said to levy large sums upon those who fall into his hands4 ,one of our guides was a fine1 tall young man1 the very image of ,ben ,habib the ,arab4 ,they were carrying dried buffalo's meat to the market at ,tete as a private speculation4 ,a great many of the ,banyai are of a light coffee-and-milk color1 and1 indeed1 this color is considered handsome throughout the whole country1 a fair complexion being as much a test of beauty with them as with us4 ,as they draw out their hair into small cords a foot in length1 and entwine the inner bark of a certain tree round each separate cord1 and dye this substance of a reddish color1 many of them put me in mind of the ancient ,egyptians4 ,the great mass of dressed hair which they possess reaches to the shoulders1 but when they intend to travel they draw it up to a bunch1 and tie it on the top of the head4 ,they are cleanly in their habits4 ,as we did not come near human habitations1 and could only take short stages on account of the illness of one of my men1 ,i had an opportunity of observing the expedients my party resorted to in order to supply their wants4 ,large white edible mushrooms are found on the ant-hills1 and are very good4 ,the mokuri1 a tuber which abounds in the ,mopane country1 they discovered by percussing the ground with stones2 and another tuber1 about the size of a turnip1 called bonga1 is found in the same situations4 ,it does not determine to the joints like the mokuri1 and in winter has a sensible amount of salt in it4 ,a fruit called ndongo by the ,makololo1 dongolo by the ,bambiri1 resembles in appearance a small plum1 which becomes black when ripe1 and is good food1 as the seeds are small4 ,many trees are known by tradition1 and one receives curious bits of information in asking about different fruits that are met with4 ,a tree named shekabakadzi is superior to all others for making fire by friction4 ,as its name implies1 women may even readily make fire by it when benighted4 ,the country here is covered over with well-rounded shingle and gravel of granite1 gneiss with much talc in it1 mica schist1 and other rocks which we saw 'in situ' between the ,kafue and ,loangwa4 ,there are great mounds of soft red sand slightly coherent1 which crumble in the hand with ease4 ,the gravel and the sand drain away the water so effectually that the trees are exposed to the heat during a portion of the year without any moisture2 hence they are not large1 like those on the ,zambesi1 and are often scrubby4 ,the rivers are all of the sandy kind1 and we pass over large patches between this and ,tete in which1 in the dry season1 no water is to be found4 ,close on our south1 the hills of ,lokole rise to a considerable height1 and beyond them flows the ,mazoe with its golden sands4 ,the great numbers of pot-holes on the sides of sandstone ridges1 when viewed in connection with the large banks of rolled shingle and washed sand which are met with on this side of the eastern ridge1 may indicate that the sea in former times rolled its waves along its flanks4 ,many of the hills between the ,kafue and ,loangwa have their sides of the form seen in mud banks left by the tide4 ,the pot-holes appear most abundant on low gray sandstone ridges here2 and as the shingle is composed of the same rocks as the hills west of ,zumbo1 it looks as if a current had dashed along from the southeast in the line in which the pot-holes now appear2 and if the current was deflected by those hills toward the ,maravi country1 north of ,tete1 it may have hollowed the rounded1 water-worn caverns in which these people store their corn1 and also hide themselves from their enemies4 ,i could detect no terraces on the land1 but1 if ,i am right in my supposition1 the form of this part of the continent must once have resembled the curves or indentations seen on the southern extremity of the ,american continent4 ,in the indentation to the ,s4,e41 ,s41 ,s4,w41 and ,w4 of this1 lie the principal gold-washings2 and the line of the current1 supposing it to have struck against the hills of ,mburuma1 shows the washings in the ,n4 and ,n4,e4 of ,tete4 ,we were tolerably successful in avoiding the villages1 and slept one night on the flanks of the hill ,zimika1 where a great number of deep pot-holes afforded an abundant supply of good rain-water4 ,here1 for the first time1 we saw hills with bare1 smooth1 rocky tops1 and we crossed over broad dikes of gneiss and syenitic porphyry3 the directions in which they lay were ,n4 and ,s4 ,as we were now near to ,tete1 we were congratulating ourselves on having avoided those who would only have plagued us2 but next morning some men saw us1 and ran off to inform the neighboring villages of our passing4 ,a party immediately pursued us1 and1 as they knew we were within call of ,katolosa 7,monomotapa71 they threatened to send information to that chief of our offense1 in passing through the country without leave4 ,we were obliged to give them two small tusks2 for1 had they told ,katolosa of our supposed offense1 we should1 in all probability1 have lost the whole4 ,we then went through a very rough1 stony country without any path4 ,being pretty well tired out in the evening of the #b;d of ,march1 ,i remained at about eight miles distance from ,tete1 ,tette1 or ,nyungwe4 ,my men asked me to go on2 ,i felt too fatigued to proceed1 but sent forward to the commandant the letters of recommendation with which ,i had been favored in ,angola by the bishop and others1 and lay down to rest4 ,our food having been exhausted1 my men had been subsisting for some time on roots and honey4 ,about two o'clock in the morning of the #c;d we were aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers1 who had been sent with the materials for a civilized breakfast and a masheela to bring me to ,tete4 7,commandant's house3 lat4 #af;d #i' #c ,s41 long4 #cc;d #bh' ,e47 ,my companions thought that we were captured by the armed men1 and called me in alarm4 ,when ,i understood the errand on which they had come1 and had partaken of a good breakfast1 though ,i had just before been too tired to sleep1 all my fatigue vanished4 ,it was the most refreshing breakfast ,i ever partook of1 and ,i walked the last eight miles without the least feeling of weariness1 although the path was so rough that one of the officers remarked to me1 ,this is enough to tear a man's life out of him4 ,the pleasure experienced in partaking of that breakfast was only equaled by the enjoyment of ,mr4 ,gabriel's bed on my arrival at ,loanda4 ,it was also enhanced by the news that ,sebastopol had fallen and the war was finished4 ,note4--,having neglected1 in referring to the footprints of the rhinoceros1 to mention what may be interesting to naturalists1 ,i add it here in a note2 that wherever the footprints are seen1 there are also marks of the animal having plowed up the ground and bushes with his horn4 ,this has been supposed to indicate that he is subject to fits of ungovernable rage2 but1 when seen1 he appears rather to be rejoicing in his strength4 ,he acts as a bull sometimes does when he gores the earth with his horns4 ,the rhinoceros1 in addition to this1 stands on a clump of bushes1 bends his back down1 and scrapes the ground with his feet1 throwing it out backward1 as if to stretch and clean his toes1 in the same way that a dog may be seen to do on a little grass3 this is certainly not rage4 ,chapter #ca4 ,kind ,reception from the ,commandant--,his ,generosity to my ,men--,the ,village of ,tete--,the ,population--,distilled ,spirits--,the ,fort--,cause of the ,decadence of ,portuguese ,power--,former ,trade--,slaves employed in ,gold-washing--,slave-trade drained the ,country of ,laborers--,the ,rebel ,nyaude's ,stockade--,he burns ,tete--,kisaka's ,revolt and ,ravages--,extensive ,field of ,sugar-cane--,the ,commandant's good ,reputation among the ,natives--,providential ,guidance--,seams of ,coal--,a hot ,spring--,picturesque ,country--,water-carriage to the ,coal-fields-- ,workmen's ,wages--,exports--,price of ,provisions--,visit ,gold-washings-- ,the ,process of obtaining the precious ,metal--,coal within a ,gold-field-- ,present from ,major ,sicard--,natives raise ,wheat1 etc4--,liberality of the ,commandant--,geographical ,information from ,senhor ,candido--,earthquakes--,native ,ideas of a ,supreme ,being--,also of the ,immortality and ,transmigration of ,souls--,fondness for ,display at ,funerals--,trade ,restrictions--,former ,jesuit ,establishment--,state of ,religion and ,education at ,tete--,inundation of the ,zambesi--,cotton cultivated--,the fibrous ,plants ,conge and ,buaze--,detained by ,fever--,the ,kumbanzo ,bark--,native ,medicines--,iron1 its ,quality--,hear of ,famine at ,kilimane--,death of a ,portuguese ,lady--,the ,funeral--,disinterested ,kindness of the ,portuguese4 ,i was most kindly received by the commandant ,tito ,augusto d',araujo ,sicard1 who did every thing in his power to restore me from my emaciated condition2 and1 as this was still the unhealthy period at ,kilimane1 he advised me to remain with him until the following month4 ,he also generously presented my men with abundant provisions of millet2 and1 by giving them lodgings in a house of his own until they could erect their own huts1 he preserved them from the bite of the tampans1 here named ,carapatos499 ,we had heard frightful accounts of this insect while among the ,banyai1 and ,major ,sicard assured me that to strangers its bite is more especially dangerous1 as it sometimes causes fatal fever4 ,it may please our homoeopathic friends to hear that1 in curing the bite of the tampan1 the natives administer one of the insects bruised in the medicine employed4 99 ,another insect1 resembling a maggot1 burrows into the feet of the natives and sucks their blood4 ,mr4 ,westwood says1 ,the tampan is a large species of mite1 closely allied to the poisonous bug 7as it is called7 of ,persia1 ',argos reflexus'1 respecting which such marvelous accounts have been recorded1 and which the statement respecting the carapato or tampan would partially confirm4 ,mr4 ,w4 also thinks that the poison- yielding larva called ,n'gwa is a species of chrysomelidae4 ,the larvae of the ,british species of that family exude a fetid yellow thickish fluid when alarmed1 but he has not heard that any of them are at all poisonous4 ,the village of ,tete is built on a long slope down to the river1 the fort being close to the water4 ,the rock beneath is gray sandstone1 and has the appearance of being crushed away from the river3 the strata have thus a crumpled form4 ,the hollow between each crease is a street1 the houses being built upon the projecting fold4 ,the rocks at the top of the slope are much higher than the fort1 and of course completely command it4 ,there is then a large valley1 and beyond that an oblong hill called ,karueira4 ,the whole of the adjacent country is rocky and broken1 but every available spot is under cultivation4 ,the stone houses in ,tete are cemented with mud instead of lime1 and thatched with reeds and grass4 ,the rains1 having washed out the mud between the stones1 give all the houses a rough1 untidy appearance4 ,no lime was known to be found nearer than ,mozambique2 some used in making seats in the verandas had actually been brought all that distance4 ,the ,portuguese evidently knew nothing of the pink and white marbles which ,i found at the ,mbai1 and another rivulet1 named the ,unguesi1 near it1 and of which ,i brought home specimens1 nor yet of the dolomite which lies so near to ,zumbo3 they might have burned the marble into lime without going so far as ,mozambique4 ,there are about thirty ,european houses2 the rest are native1 and of wattle and daub4 ,a wall about ten feet high is intended to inclose the village1 but most of the native inhabitants prefer to live on different spots outside4 ,there are about twelve hundred huts in all1 which with ,european households would give a population of about four thousand five hundred souls4 ,only a small proportion of these1 however1 live on the spot2 the majority are engaged in agricultural operations in the adjacent country4 ,generally there are not more than two thousand people resident1 for1 compared with what it was1 ,tete is now a ruin4 ,the number of ,portuguese is very small2 if we exclude the military1 it is under twenty4 ,lately1 however1 one hundred and five soldiers were sent from ,portugal to ,senna1 where in one year twenty-five were cut off by fever4 ,they were then removed to ,tete1 and here they enjoy much better health1 though1 from the abundance of spirits distilled from various plants1 wild fruits1 and grain1 in which pernicious beverage they largely indulge1 besides partaking chiefly of unwholesome native food1 better health could scarcely have been expected4 ,the natives here understand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels1 and a succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep them cool4 ,the general report of the fever here is that1 while at ,kilimane the fever is continuous1 at ,tete a man recovers in about three days4 ,the mildest remedies only are used at first1 and1 if that period be passed1 then the more severe4 ,the fort of ,tete has been the salvation of the ,portuguese power in this quarter4 ,it is a small square building1 with a thatched apartment for the residence of the troops2 and1 though there are but few guns1 they are in a much better state than those of any fort in the interior of ,angola4 ,the cause of the decadence of the ,portuguese power in this region is simply this3 ,in former times1 considerable quantities of grain1 as wheat1 millet1 and maize1 were exported2 also coffee1 sugar1 oil1 and indigo1 besides gold-dust and ivory4 ,the cultivation of grain was carried on by means of slaves1 of whom the ,portuguese possessed a large number4 ,the gold-dust was procured by washing at various points on the north1 south1 and west of ,tete4 ,a merchant took all his slaves with him to the washings1 carrying as much calico and other goods as he could muster4 ,on arriving at the washing-place1 he made a present to the chief of the value of about a pound sterling4 ,the slaves were then divided into parties1 each headed by a confidential servant1 who not only had the supervision of his squad while the washing went on1 but bought dust from the inhabitants1 and made a weekly return to his master4 ,when several masters united at one spot1 it was called a ,bara1 and they then erected a temporary church1 in which a priest from one of the missions performed mass4 ,both chiefs and people were favorable to these visits1 because the traders purchased grain for the sustenance of the slaves with the goods they had brought4 ,they continued at this labor until the whole of the goods were expended1 and by this means about #acj lbs4 of gold were annually produced4 ,probably more than this was actually obtained1 but1 as it was an article easily secreted1 this alone was submitted to the authorities for taxation4 ,at present the whole amount of gold obtained annually by the ,portuguese is from #h to #aj lbs4 only4 ,when the slave-trade began1 it seemed to many of the merchants a more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves than to pursue the slow mode of gold-washing and agriculture1 and they continued to export them until they had neither hands to labor nor to fight for them4 ,it was just the story of the goose and the golden egg4 ,the coffee and sugar plantations and gold-washings were abandoned1 because the labor had been exported to the ,brazils4 ,many of the ,portuguese then followed their slaves1 and the government was obliged to pass a law to prevent further emigration1 which1 had it gone on1 would have depopulated the ,portuguese possessions altogether4 ,a clever man of ,asiatic 7,goa7 and ,portuguese extraction1 called ,nyaude1 now built a stockade at the confluence of the ,luenya and ,zambesi2 and when the commandant of ,tete sent an officer with his company to summon him to his presence1 ,nyaude asked permission of the officer to dress himself1 which being granted1 he went into an inner apartment1 and the officer ordered his men to pile their arms4 ,a drum of war began to beat a note which is well known to the inhabitants4 ,some of the soldiers took the alarm on hearing this note1 but the officer1 disregarding their warning1 was1 with his whole party1 in a few minutes disarmed and bound hand and foot4 ,the commandant of ,tete then armed the whole body of slaves and marched against the stockade of ,nyaude1 but when they came near to it there was the ,luenya still to cross4 ,as they did not effect this speedily1 ,nyaude dispatched a strong party under his son ,bonga across the river below the stockade1 and up the left bank of the ,zambesi until they came near to ,tete4 ,they then attacked ,tete1 which was wholly undefended save by a few soldiers in the fort1 plundered and burned the whole town except the house of the commandant and a few others1 with the church and fort4 ,the women and children fled into the church2 and it is a remarkable fact that none of the natives of this region will ever attack a church4 ,having rendered ,tete a ruin1 ,bonga carried off all the cattle and plunder to his father4 ,news of this having been brought to the army before the stockade1 a sudden panic dispersed the whole2 and as the fugitives took roundabout ways in their flight1 ,katolosa1 who had hitherto pretended to be friendly with the ,portuguese1 sent out his men to capture as many of them as they could4 ,they killed many for the sake of their arms4 ,this is the account which both natives and ,portuguese give of the affair4 ,another half-caste from ,macao1 called ,kisaka or ,choutama1 on the opposite bank of the river1 likewise rebelled4 ,his father having died1 he imagined that he had been bewitched by the ,portuguese1 and he therefore plundered and burned all the plantations of the rich merchants of ,tete on the north bank4 ,as ,i have before remarked1 that bank is the most fertile1 and there the ,portuguese had their villas and plantations to which they daily retired from ,tete4 ,when these were destroyed the ,tete people were completely impoverished4 ,an attempt was made to punish this rebel1 but it was also unsuccessful1 and he has lately been pardoned by the home government4 ,one point in the narrative of this expedition is interesting4 ,they came to a field of sugar-cane so large that #djjj men eating it during two days did not finish the whole4 ,the ,portuguese were thus placed between two enemies1 ,nyaude on the right bank and ,kisaka on the left1 and not only so1 but ,nyaude1 having placed his stockade on the point of land on the right banks of both the ,luenya and ,zambesi1 and washed by both these rivers1 could prevent intercourse with the sea4 ,the ,luenya rushes into the ,zambesi with great force when the latter is low1 and1 in coming up the ,zambesi1 boats must cross it and the ,luenya separately1 even going a little way up that river1 so as not to be driven away by its current in the bed of the ,zambesi1 and dashed on the rock which stands on the opposite shore4 ,in coming up to the ,luenya for this purpose1 all boats and canoes came close to the stockade to be robbed4 ,nyaude kept the ,portuguese shut up in their fort at ,tete during two years1 and they could only get goods sufficient to buy food by sending to ,kilimane by an overland route along the north bank of the ,zambesi4 ,the mother country did not in these ,caffre wars pay the bills1 so no one either became rich or blamed the missionaries4 ,the merchants were unable to engage in trade1 and commerce1 which the slave-trade had rendered stagnant1 was now completely obstructed4 ,the present commandant of ,tete1 ,major ,sicard1 having great influence among the natives1 from his good character1 put a stop to the war more than once by his mere presence on the spot4 ,we heard of him among the ,banyai as a man with whom they would never fight1 because he had a good heart4 ,had ,i come down to this coast instead of going to ,loanda in #ahec1 ,i should have come among the belligerents while the war was still raging1 and should probably have been cut off4 ,my present approach was just at the conclusion of the peace2 and when the ,portuguese authorities here were informed1 through the kind offices of ,lord ,clarendon and ,count de ,lavradio1 that ,i was expected to come this way1 they all declared that such was the existing state of affairs that no ,european could possibly pass through the tribes4 ,some natives at last came down the river to ,tete and said1 alluding to the sextant and artificial horizon1 that the ,son of ,god had come1 and that he was able to take the sun down from the heavens and place it under his arm6 ,major ,sicard then felt sure that this was the man mentioned in ,lord ,clarendon's dispatch4 ,on mentioning to the commandant that ,i had discovered a small seam of coal1 he stated that the ,portuguese were already aware of nine such seams1 and that five of them were on the opposite bank of the river4 ,as soon as ,i had recovered from my fatigue ,i went to examine them4 ,we proceeded in a boat to the mouth of the ,lofubu or ,revubu1 which is about two miles below ,tete1 and on the opposite or northern bank4 ,ascending this about four miles against a strong current of beautifully clear water1 we landed near a small cataract1 and walked about two miles through very fertile gardens to the seam1 which we found to be in one of the feeders of the ,lofubu1 called ,muatize or ,motize4 ,the seam is in the perpendicular bank1 and dips into the rivulet1 or in a northerly direction4 ,there is1 first of all1 a seam #aj inches in diameter1 then some shale1 below which there is another seam1 #eh inches of which are seen1 and1 as the bottom touches the water of the ,muatize1 it may be more4 ,this part of the seam is about #cj yards long4 ,there is then a fault4 ,about #ajj yards higher up the stream black vesicular trap is seen1 penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country1 converting it into porcellanite1 and partially crystallizing the coal with which it came into contact4 ,on the right bank of the ,lofubu there is another feeder entering that river near its confluence with the ,muatize1 which is called the ,morongozi1 in which there is another and still larger bed of coal exposed4 ,farther up the ,lofubu there are other seams in the rivulets ,inyavu and ,makare2 also several spots in the ,maravi country have the coal cropping out4 ,this has evidently been brought to the surface by volcanic action at a later period than the coal formation4 ,i also went up the ,zambesi1 and visited a hot spring called ,nyamboronda1 situated in the bed of a small rivulet named ,nyaondo1 which shows that igneous action is not yet extinct4 ,we landed at a small rivulet called ,mokorozi1 then went a mile or two to the eastward1 where we found a hot fountain at the bottom of a high hill4 ,a little spring bubbles up on one side of the rivulet ,nyaondo1 and a great quantity of acrid steam rises up from the ground adjacent1 about #ab feet square of which is so hot that my companions could not stand on it with their bare feet4 ,there are several little holes from which the water trickles1 but the principal spring is in a hole a foot in diameter1 and about the same in depth4 ,numbers of bubbles are constantly rising4 ,the steam feels acrid in the throat1 but is not inflammable1 as it did not burn when ,i held a bunch of lighted grass over the bubbles4 ,the mercury rises to #aeh ,deg4 when the thermometer is put into the water in the hole1 but after a few seconds it stands steadily at #afj ,deg4 ,even when flowing over the stones the water is too hot for the hand4 ,little fish frequently leap out of the stream in the bed of which the fountain rises1 into the hot water1 and get scalded to death4 ,we saw a frog which had performed the experiment1 and was now cooked4 ,the stones over which the water flows are incrusted with a white salt1 and the water has a saline taste4 ,the ground has been dug out near the fountain by the natives1 in order to extract the salt it contains4 ,it is situated among rocks of syenitic porphyry in broad dikes1 and gneiss tilted on edge1 and having a strike to the ,n4,e4 ,there are many specimens of half-formed pumice1 with greenstone and lava4 ,some of the sandstone strata are dislocated by a hornblende rock and by basalt1 the sandstone nearest to the basalt being converted into quartz4 ,the country around1 as indeed all the district lying ,n4 and ,n4,w4 of ,tete1 is hilly1 and1 the hills being covered with trees1 the scenery is very picturesque4 ,the soil of the valleys is very fruitful and well cultivated4 ,there would not be much difficulty in working the coal4 ,the ,lofubu is about #fj yards broad2 it flows perennially1 and at its very lowest period1 which is after ,september1 there is water about #ah inches deep1 which could be navigated in flat-bottomed boats4 ,at the time of my visit it was full1 and the current was very strong4 ,if the small cataract referred to were to be avoided1 the land-carriage beyond would only be about two miles4 ,the other seams farther up the river may1 after passing the cataract1 be approached more easily than that in the ,muatize2 as the seam1 however1 dips down into the stream1 no drainage of the mine would be required1 for if water were come to it would run into the stream4 ,i did not visit the others1 but ,i was informed that there are seams in the independent native territory as well as in that of the ,portuguese4 ,that in the ,nake is in the ,banyai country1 and1 indeed1 ,i have no doubt but that the whole country between ,zumbo and ,lupata is a coal-field of at least #b-a_/b ,deg4 of latitude in breadth1 having many faults1 made during the time of the igneous action4 ,the gray sandstone rock having silicified trees lying on it is of these dimensions4 ,the plantation in which the seam of coal exists would be valued among the ,portuguese at about #fj dollars or #ab ,pounds1 but much more would probably be asked if a wealthy purchaser appeared4 ,they could not1 however1 raise the price very much higher1 because estates containing coal might be had from the native owners at a much cheaper rate4 ,the wages of free laborers1 when employed in such work as gold-washing1 agriculture1 or digging coal1 is #b yards of unbleached calico per day4 ,they might be got to work cheaper if engaged by the moon1 or for about #af yards per month4 ,for masons and carpenters even1 the ordinary rate is #b yards per day4 ,this is called #a braca4 ,tradesmen from ,kilimane demand #d bracas1 or #h yards1 per day4 ,english or ,american unbleached calico is the only currency used4 ,the carriage of goods up the river to ,tete adds about #aj per cent4 to their cost4 ,the usual conveyance is by means of very large canoes and launches built at ,senna4 ,the amount of merchandise brought up during the five months of peace previous to my visit was of the value of #cj1jjj dollars1 or about #fjjj ,pounds4 ,the annual supply of goods for trade is about #ae1jjj ,pounds1 being calico1 thick brass wire1 beads1 gunpowder1 and guns4 ,the quantity of the latter is1 however1 small1 as the government of ,mozambique made that article contraband after the commencement of the war4 ,goods1 when traded with in the tribes around the ,portuguese1 produce a profit of only about #aj per cent41 the articles traded in being ivory and gold-dust4 ,a little oil and wheat are exported1 but nothing else4 ,trade with the tribes beyond the exclusive ones is much better4 ,thirty brass rings cost #ajs4 at ,senna1 #a ,pound at ,tete1 and #b ,pounds beyond the tribes in the vicinity of ,tete2 these are a good price for a penful of gold-dust of the value of #b ,pounds4 ,the plantations of coffee1 which1 previous to the commencement of the slave-trade1 yielded one material for exportation1 are now deserted1 and it is difficult to find a single tree4 ,the indigo 7',indigofera argentea'1 the common wild indigo of ,africa7 is found growing every where1 and large quantities of the senna-plant99 grow in the village of ,tete and other parts1 but neither indigo nor senna is collected4 ,calumba-root1 which is found in abundance in some parts farther down the river1 is bought by the ,americans1 it is said1 to use as a dye-stuff4 ,a kind of sarsaparilla1 or a plant which is believed by the ,portuguese to be such1 is found from ,londa to ,senna1 but has never been exported4 99 ,these appear to belong to ',cassia acutifolia'1 or true senna of commerce1 found in various parts of ,africa and ,india4--,dr4 ,hooker4 ,the price of provisions is low1 but very much higher than previous to the commencement of the war4 ,two yards of calico are demanded for six fowls2 this is considered very dear1 because1 before the war1 the same quantity of calico was worth #bd fowls4 ,grain is sold in little bags made from the leaves of the palmyra1 like those in which we receive sugar4 ,they are called panjas1 and each panja weighs between #cj and #dj lbs4 ,the panja of wheat at ,tete is worth a dollar1 or #es42 but the native grain may be obtained among the islands below ,lupata at the rate of three panjas for two yards of calico4 ,the highest articles of consumption are tea and coffee1 the tea being often as high as #aes4 a pound4 ,food is cheaper down the river below ,lupata1 and1 previous to the war1 the islands which stud the ,zambesi were all inhabited1 and1 the soil being exceedingly fertile1 grain and fowls could be got to any amount4 ,the inhabitants disappeared before their enemies the ,landeens1 but are beginning to return since the peace4 ,they have no cattle1 the only place where we found no tsetse being the district of ,tete itself2 and the cattle in the possession of the ,portuguese are a mere remnant of what they formerly owned4 ,when visiting the hot fountain1 ,i examined what were formerly the gold-washings in the rivulet ,mokoroze1 which is nearly on the #afth parallel of latitude4 ,the banks are covered with large groves of fine mango-trees1 among which the ,portuguese lived while superintending the washing for the precious metal4 ,the process of washing is very laborious and tedious4 ,a quantity of sand is put into a wooden bowl with water2 a half rotatory motion is given to the dish1 which causes the coarser particles of sand to collect on one side of the bottom4 ,these are carefully removed with the hand1 and the process of rotation renewed until the whole of the sand is taken away1 and the gold alone remains4 ,it is found in very minute scales1 and1 unless ,i had been assured to the contrary1 ,i should have taken it to be mica1 for1 knowing the gold to be of greater specific gravity than the sand1 ,i imagined that a stream of water would remove the latter and leave the former2 but here the practice is to remove the whole of the sand by the hand4 ,this process was1 no doubt1 a profitable one to the ,portuguese1 and it is probable that1 with the improved plan by means of mercury1 the sands would be lucrative4 ,i had an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from different parts to the east and northeast of ,tete4 ,there are six well-known washing-places4 ,these are called ,mashinga1 ,shindundo1 ,missala1 ,kapata1 ,mano1 and ,jawa4 ,from the description of the rock ,i received1 ,i suppose gold is found both in clay shale and quartz4 ,at the range ,mushinga to the ,n4,n4,w4 the rock is said to be so soft that the women pound it into powder in wooden mortars previous to washing4 ,round toward the westward1 the old ,portuguese indicate a station which was near to ,zumbo on the ,river ,panyame1 and called ,dambarari1 near which much gold was found4 ,farther west lay the now unknown kingdom of ,abutua1 which was formerly famous for the metal2 and then1 coming round toward the east1 we have the gold-washings of the ,mashona1 or ,bazizulu1 and1 farther east1 that of ,manica1 where gold is found much more abundantly than in any other part1 and which has been supposed by some to be the ,ophir of ,king ,solomon4 ,i saw the gold from this quarter as large as grains of wheat1 that found in the rivers which run into the coal-field being in very minute scales4 ,if we place one leg of the compasses at ,tete1 and extend the other three and a half degrees1 bringing it round from the northeast of ,tete by west1 and then to the southeast1 we nearly touch or include all the known gold-producing country4 ,as the gold on this circumference is found in coarser grains than in the streams running toward the centre1 or ,tete1 ,i imagine that the real gold-field lies round about the coal-field2 and1 if ,i am right in the conjecture1 then we have coal encircled by a gold-field1 and abundance of wood1 water1 and provisions--a combination not often met with in the world4 ,the inhabitants are not unfavorable to washings1 conducted on the principle formerly mentioned4 ,at present they wash only when in want of a little calico4 ,they know the value of gold perfectly well1 for they bring it for sale in goose-quills1 and demand #bd yards of calico for one penful4 ,when the rivers in the district of ,manica and other gold-washing places have been flooded1 they leave a coating of mud on the banks4 ,the natives observe the spots which dry soonest1 and commence digging there1 in firm belief that gold lies beneath4 ,they are said not to dig deeper than their chins1 believing that if they did so the ground would fall in and kill them4 ,when they find a 'piece' or flake of gold1 they bury it again1 from the superstitious idea that this is the seed of the gold1 and1 though they know the value of it well1 they prefer losing it rather than the whole future crop4 ,this conduct seemed to me so very unlikely in men who bring the dust in quills1 and even put in a few seeds of a certain plant as a charm to prevent their losing any of it on the way1 that ,i doubted the authority of my informant2 but ,i found the report verified by all the ,portuguese who knew the native language and mode of thinking1 and give the statement for what it is worth4 ,if it is really practiced1 the custom may have been introduced by some knowing one who wished to defraud the chiefs of their due2 for we are informed in ,portuguese history that in former times these pieces or flakes of gold were considered the perquisites of the chiefs4 ,major ,sicard1 the commandant1 whose kindness to me and my people was unbounded1 presented a rosary made of the gold of the country1 the workmanship of a native of ,tete1 to my little daughter2 also specimens of the gold-dust of three different places1 which1 with the coal of ,muatize and ,morongoze1 are deposited in the ,museum of ,practical ,geology1 ,jermyn ,street1 ,london4 ,all the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native manner1 and considerable quantities of ',holcus sorghum'1 maize1 ',pennisetum typhoideum'1 or lotsa of the ,balonda1 millet1 rice1 and wheat are raised1 as also several kinds of beans--one of which1 called litloo by the ,bechuanas1 yields under ground1 as well as the ',arachis hypogaea'1 or ground-nut2 with cucumbers1 pumpkins1 and melons4 ,the wheat is sown in low-lying places which are annually flooded by the ,zambesi4 ,when the waters retire1 the women drop a few grains in a hole made with a hoe1 then push back the soil with the foot4 ,one weeding alone is required before the grain comes to maturity4 ,this simple process represents all our subsoil plowing1 liming1 manuring1 and harrowing1 for in four months after planting a good crop is ready for the sickle1 and has been known to yield a hundred-fold4 ,it flourished still more at ,zumbo4 ,no irrigation is required1 because here there are gentle rains1 almost like mist1 in winter1 which go by the name of wheat-showers1 and are unknown in the interior1 where no winter rain ever falls4 ,the rains at ,tete come from the east1 though the prevailing winds come from the ,s4,s4,e4 ,the finest portion of the flour does not make bread nearly so white as the seconds1 and here the boyaloa 7pombe71 or native beer1 is employed to mix with the flour instead of yeast4 ,it makes excellent bread4 ,at ,kilimane1 where the cocoanut palm abounds1 the toddy from it1 called sura1 is used for the same purpose1 and makes the bread still lighter4 ,as it was necessary to leave most of my men at this place1 ,major ,sicard gave them a portion of land on which to cultivate their own food1 generously supplying them with corn in the mean time4 ,he also said that my young men might go and hunt elephants in company with his servants1 and purchase goods with both the ivory and dried meat1 in order that they might have something to take with them on their return to ,sekeletu4 ,the men were delighted with his liberality1 and soon sixty or seventy of them set off to engage in this enterprise4 ,there was no calico to be had at this time in ,tete1 but the commandant handsomely furnished my men with clothing4 ,i was in a state of want myself1 and1 though ,i pressed him to take payment in ivory for both myself and men1 he refused all recompense4 ,i shall ever remember his kindness with deep gratitude4 ,he has written me1 since my arrival in ,england1 that my men had killed four elephants in the course of two months after my departure4 ,on the day of my arrival ,i was visited by all the gentlemen of the village1 both white and colored1 including the padre4 ,not one of them had any idea as to where the source of the ,zambesi lay4 ,they sent for the best traveled natives1 but none of them knew the river even as far as ,kansala4 ,the father of one of the rebels who had been fighting against them had been a great traveler to the southwest1 and had even heard of our visit to ,lake ,ngami2 but he was equally ignorant with all the others that the ,zambesi flowed in the centre of the country4 ,they had1 however1 more knowledge of the country to the north of ,tete than ,i had4 ,one man1 who had gone to ,cazembe with ,major ,monteiro1 stated that he had seen the ,luapura or ,loapula flowing past the town of that chieftain into the ,luameji or ,leeambye1 but imagined that it found its way1 somehow or other1 into ,angola4 ,the fact that sometimes rivers were seen to flow like this toward the centre of the country1 led geographers to the supposition that inner ,africa was composed of elevated sandy plains1 into which rivers ran and were lost4 ,one of the gentlemen present1 ,senhor ,candido1 had visited a lake #de days to the ,n4,n4,w4 of ,tete1 which is probably the ,lake ,maravi of geographers1 as in going thither they pass through the people of that name4 ,the inhabitants of its southern coast are named ,shiva2 those on the north1 ,mujao2 and they call the lake ,nyanja or ,nyanje1 which simply means a large water1 or bed of a large river4 ,a high mountain stands in the middle of it1 called ,murombo or ,murombola1 which is inhabited by people who have much cattle4 ,he stated that he crossed the ,nyanja at a narrow part1 and was #cf hours in the passage4 ,the canoes were punted the whole way1 and1 if we take the rate about two miles per hour1 it may be sixty or seventy miles in breadth4 ,the country all round was composed of level plains covered with grass1 and1 indeed1 in going thither they traveled seven or eight days without wood1 and cooked their food with grass and stalks of native corn alone4 ,the people sold their cattle at a very cheap rate4 ,from the southern extremity of the lake two rivers issue forth3 one1 named after itself1 the ,nyanja1 which passes into the sea on the east coast under another name2 and the ,shire1 which flows into the ,zambesi a little below ,senna4 ,the ,shire is named ,shirwa at its point of departure from the lake1 and ,senhor ,candido was informed1 when there1 that the lake was simply an expansion of the ,river ,nyanja1 which comes from the north and encircles the mountain ,murombo1 the meaning of which is junction or union1 in reference to the water having parted at its northern extremity1 and united again at its southern4 ,the ,shire flows through a low1 flat1 marshy country1 but abounding in population1 and they are said to be brave4 ,the ,portuguese are unable to navigate the ,shire up to the ,lake ,nyanja1 because of the great abundance of a water-plant which requires no soil1 and which they name alfacinya 7',pistia stratiotes'71 from its resemblance to a lettuce4 ,this completely obstructs the progress of canoes4 ,in confirmation of this ,i may state that1 when ,i passed the mouth of the ,shire1 great quantities of this same plant were floating from it into the ,zambesi1 and many parts of the banks below were covered with the dead plants4 ,senhor ,candido stated that slight earthquakes have happened several times in the country of the ,maravi1 and at no great distance from ,tete4 ,the motion seems to come from the eastward1 and never to have lasted more than a few seconds4 ,they are named in the ,maravi tongue shiwo1 and in that of the people of ,tete shitakoteko1 or shivering4 ,this agrees exactly with what has taken place in the coast of ,mozambique--a few slight shocks of short duration1 and all appearing to come from the east4 ,at ,senna1 too1 a single shock has been felt several times1 which shook the doors and windows1 and made the glasses jingle4 ,both ,tete and ,senna have hot springs in their vicinity1 but the shocks seemed to come1 not from them1 but from the east1 and proceed to the west4 ,they are probably connected with the active volcanoes in the island of ,bourbon4 ,as ,senhor ,candido holds the office of judge in all the disputes of the natives1 and knows their language perfectly1 his statement may be relied on that all the natives of this region have a clear idea of a ,supreme ,being1 the maker and governor of all things4 ,he is named ,morimo1 ,molungo1 ,reza1 ,mpambe1 in the different dialects spoken4 ,the ,barotse name him ,nyampi1 and the ,balonda ,zambi4 ,all promptly acknowledge him as the ruler over all4 ,they also fully believe in the soul's continued existence apart from the body1 and visit the graves of relatives1 making offerings of food1 beer1 etc4 ,when undergoing the ordeal1 they hold up their hands to the ,ruler of ,heaven1 as if appealing to him to assert their innocence4 ,when they escape1 or recover from sickness1 or are delivered from any danger1 they offer a sacrifice of a fowl or a sheep1 pouring out the blood as a libation to the soul of some departed relative4 ,they believe in the transmigration of souls1 and also that while persons are still living they may enter into lions and alligators1 and then return again to their own bodies4 ,while still at ,tete the son of ,monomotapa paid the commandant a visit4 ,he is named ,mozungo1 or ,white ,man1 has a narrow tapering head1 and probably none of the ability or energy his father possessed4 ,he was the favorite of his father1 who hoped that he would occupy his place4 ,a strong party1 however1 in the tribe placed ,katalosa in the chieftainship1 and the son became1 as they say1 a child of this man4 ,the ,portuguese have repeatedly received offers of territory if they would only attend the interment of the departed chief with troops1 fire off many rounds of cartridges over the grave1 and then give eclat to the installment of the new chief4 ,their presence would probably influence the election1 for many would vote on the side of power1 and a candidate might feel it worth while to grant a good piece of land1 if thereby he could secure the chieftainship to himself4 ,when the ,portuguese traders wish to pass into the country beyond ,katalosa1 they present him with about thirty-two yards of calico and some other goods1 and he then gives them leave to pass in whatever direction they choose to go4 ,they must1 however1 give certain quantities of cloth to a number of inferior chiefs beside1 and they are subject to the game-laws4 ,they have thus a body of exclusive tribes around them1 preventing direct intercourse between them and the population beyond4 ,it is strange that1 when they had the power1 they did not insist on the free navigation of the ,zambesi4 ,i can only account for this in the same way in which ,i accounted for a similar state of things in the west4 ,all the traders have been in the hands of slaves1 and have wanted that moral courage which a free man1 with free servants on whom he can depend1 usually possesses4 ,if the ,english had been here1 they would have insisted on the free navigation of this pathway as an indispensable condition of friendship4 ,the present system is a serious difficulty in the way of developing the resources of the country1 and might prove fatal to an unarmed expedition4 ,if this desirable and most fertile field of enterprise is ever to be opened up1 men must proceed on a different plan from that which has been followed1 and ,i do not apprehend there would be much difficulty in commencing a new system1 if those who undertook it insisted that it is not our custom to pay for a highway which has not been made by man4 ,the natives themselves would not deny that the river is free to those who do not trade in slaves4 ,if1 in addition to an open1 frank explanation1 a small subsidy were given to the paramount chief1 the willing consent of all the subordinates would soon be secured4 ,on the #ast of ,april ,i went to see the site of a former establishment of the ,jesuits1 called ,micombo1 about ten miles ,s4,e4 of ,tete4 ,like all their settlements ,i have seen1 both judgment and taste had been employed in the selection of the site4 ,a little stream of mineral water had been collected in a tank and conducted to their house1 before which was a little garden for raising vegetables at times of the year when no rain falls4 ,it is now buried in a deep shady grove of mango-trees4 ,i was accompanied by ,captain ,nunes1 whose great-grandfather1 also a captain in the time of the ,marquis of ,pombal1 received sealed orders1 to be opened only on a certain day4 ,when that day arrived1 he found the command to go with his company1 seize all the ,jesuits of this establishment1 and march them as prisoners to the coast4 ,the riches of the fraternity1 which were immense1 were taken possession of by the state4 ,large quantities of gold had often been sent to their superiors at ,goa1 inclosed in images4 ,the ,jesuits here do not seem to have possessed the sympathies of the people as their brethren in ,angola did4 ,they were keen traders in ivory and gold-dust4 ,all praise their industry4 ,whatever they did1 they did it with all their might1 and probably their successful labors in securing the chief part of the trade to themselves had excited the envy of the laity4 ,none of the natives here can read2 and though the ,jesuits are said to have translated some of the prayers into the language of the country1 ,i was unable to obtain a copy4 ,the only religious teachers now in this part of the country are two gentlemen of color1 natives of ,goa4 ,the one who officiates at ,tete1 named ,pedro ,antonio d',araujo1 is a graduate in ,dogmatic ,theology and ,moral ,philosophy4 ,there is but a single school in ,tete1 and it is attended only by the native ,portuguese children1 who are taught to read and write4 ,the black population is totally uncared for4 ,the soldiers are marched every ,sunday to hear mass1 and but few others attend church4 ,during the period of my stay1 a kind of theatrical representation of our ,savior's passion and resurrection was performed4 ,the images and other paraphernalia used were of great value1 but the present riches of the ,church are nothing to what it once possessed4 ,the commandant is obliged to lock up all the gold and silver in the fort for safety1 though not from any apprehension of its being stolen by the people1 for they have a dread of sacrilege4 ,the state of religion and education is1 ,i am sorry to say1 as low as that of commerce2 but the ,european ,portuguese value education highly1 and send their children to ,goa and elsewhere for instruction in the higher branches4 ,there is not a single bookseller's shop1 however1 in either eastern or western ,africa4 ,even ,loanda1 with its #ab1jjj or #ad1jjj souls1 can not boast of one store for the sale of food for the mind4 ,on the #b;d the ,zambesi suddenly rose several feet in height4 ,three such floods are expected annually1 but this year there were four4 ,this last was accompanied by discoloration1 and must have been caused by another great fall of rain east of the ridge4 ,we had observed a flood of discolored water when we reached the river at the ,kafue2 it then fell two feet1 and from subsequent rains again rose so high that we were obliged to leave it when opposite the hill ,pinkwe4 ,about the #ajth of ,march the river rose several feet with comparatively clear water1 and it continued to rise until the #bast1 with but very slight discoloration4 ,this gradual rise was the greatest1 and was probably caused by the water of inundation in the interior4 ,the sudden rise which happened on the #b;d1 being deeply discolored1 showed again the effect of rains at a comparatively short distance4 ,the fact of the river rising three or four times annually1 and the one flood of inundation being mixed with the others1 may account for the ,portuguese not recognizing the phenomenon of the periodical inundation1 so well known in the central country4 ,the independent natives cultivate a little cotton1 but it is not at all equal1 either in quantity or quality1 to what we found in ,angola4 ,the pile is short1 and it clings to the seed so much that they use an iron roller to detach it4 ,the soil1 however1 is equal to the production of any tropical plant or fruit4 ,the natives have never been encouraged to cultivate cotton for sale1 nor has any new variety been introduced4 ,we saw no palm-oil-trees1 the oil which is occasionally exported being from the ground-nut4 ,one of the merchants of ,tete had a mill of the rudest construction for grinding this nut1 which was driven by donkeys4 ,it was the only specimen of a machine ,i could exhibit to my men4 ,a very superior kind of salad oil is obtained from the seeds of cucumbers1 and is much used in native cookery4 ,an offer1 said to have been made by the ,times1 having excited attention even in this distant part1 ,i asked the commandant if he knew of any plant fit for the production of paper4 ,he procured specimens of the fibrous tissue of a species of aloe1 named ,conge1 and some also from the root of a wild date1 and1 lastly1 of a plant named ,buaze1 the fibres of which1 though useless for the manufacture of paper1 are probably a suitable substitute for flax4 ,i submitted a small quantity of these fibres to ,messrs4 ,pye1 ,brothers1 of ,london1 who have invented a superior mode for the preparation of such tissues for the manufacturer4 ,they most politely undertook the examination1 and have given a favorable opinion of the ,buaze1 as may be seen in the note below499 99 #hj ,lombard ,street1 #bjth ,march1 #aheg4 ,dear ,sir1--,we have the pleasure to return you the specimens of fibrous plants from the ,zambesi ,river1 on which you were desirous to see the effects of our treatment2 we therefore inclose to you1 ,no4 #a4 ,buaze1 in the state received from you4 #a ,a4 ,do4 as prepared by us4 #a ,b4 ,the tow which has come from it in hackling4 ,no4 #b4 ,conge1 as received from you4 #b ,a4 ,do4 as prepared by us4 ,with regard to both these fibres1 we must state that the ,,very ,,minute ,,quantity of each specimen has prevented our subjecting them to any thing like the full treatment of our process1 and we can therefore only give you an ,,approximate idea of their value4 ,the ,buaze evidently possesses a very strong and fine fibre1 assimilating to flax in its character1 but we believe1 when treated ,,in ,,quantity by our process1 it would show both a stronger and finer fibre than flax2 but being unable to apply the rolling or pressing processes with any efficiency to so very small a quantity1 the gums are not yet so perfectly extracted as they would be1 nor the fibre opened out to so fine a quality as it would then exhibit4 ,this is even yet more the case with the ,conge1 which1 being naturally a harsh fibre1 full of gums1 wants exactly that powerful treatment which our process is calculated to give it1 but which can not be applied to such miniature specimens4 ,we do not therefore consider this as more than half treated1 its fibre consequently remaining yet harsh1 and coarse1 and stiff1 as compared with what it would be if treated ,,in ,,quantity4 ,judging that it would be satisfactory to you to be in possession of the best practical opinion to be obtained on such a subject1 we took the liberty of forwarding your little specimens to ,messrs4 ,marshall1 of ,leeds1 who have kindly favored us with the following observations on them3 ,we have examined the samples you sent us yesterday1 and think the ,conge or aloe fibre would be of no use to us1 but the ,buaze fibre appears to resemble flax1 and as prepared by you will be equal to flax worth #ej ,pounds or #fj ,pounds per ton1 but we could hardly speak positively to the value unless we had #a cwt4 or #b cwt4 to try on our machinery4 ,however1 we think the result is promising1 and we hope further inquiry will be made as to the probable supply of the material4 ,we are1 dear sir1 your very obedient servants1 ,pye1 ,brothers4 ,the ,rev4 ,dr4 ,livingstone4 ,a representation of the plant is given in the annexed woodcut199 as a help to its identification4 ,i was unable to procure either the flowers or fruit2 but1 as it is not recognized at sight by that accomplished botanist and eminent traveler1 ,dr4 ,j4 ,d4 ,hooker1 it may safely be concluded that it is quite unknown to botanists4 ,it is stated by the ,portuguese to grow in large quantities in the ,maravi country north of the ,zambesi1 but it is not cultivated1 and the only known use it has been put to is in making threads on which the natives string their beads4 ,elsewhere the split tendons of animals are employed for this purpose4 ,this seems to be of equal strength1 for a firm thread of it feels like catgut in the hand1 and would rather cut the fingers than break4 99 ,unfortunately1 this woodcut can not be represented in this ,,ascii text1 but buaze1 or bwazi1 is ',securidaca longipedunculata'4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,having waited a month for the commencement of the healthy season at ,kilimane1 ,i would have started at the beginning of ,april1 but tarried a few days in order that the moon might make her appearance1 and enable me to take lunar observations on my way down the river4 ,a sudden change of temperature happening on the #dth1 simultaneously with the appearance of the new moon1 the commandant and myself1 with nearly every person in the house1 were laid up with a severe attack of fever4 ,i soon recovered by the use of my wonted remedies1 but ,major ,sicard and his little boy were confined much longer4 ,there was a general fall of #d ,deg4 of temperature from the middle of ,march1 #hd ,deg4 at #i ,a4,m41 and #hg ,deg4 at #i ,p4,m42 the greatest heat being #ij ,deg4 at midday1 and the lowest #ha ,deg4 at sunrise4 ,it afforded me pleasure to attend the invalids in their sickness1 though ,i was unable to show a tithe of the gratitude ,i felt for the commandant's increasing kindness4 ,my quinine and other remedies were nearly all expended1 and no fresh supply was to be found here1 there being no doctors at ,tete1 and only one apothecary with the troops1 whose stock of medicine was also small4 ,the ,portuguese1 however1 informed me that they had the cinchona bark growing in their country--that there was a little of it to be found at ,tete--whole forests of it at ,senna and near the delta of ,kilimane4 ,it seems quite a providential arrangement that the remedy for fever should be found in the greatest abundance where it is most needed4 ,on seeing the leaves1 ,i stated that it was not the ',cinchona longifolia' from which it is supposed the quinine of commerce is extracted1 but the name and properties of this bark made me imagine that it was a cinchonaceous tree4 ,i could not get the flower1 but when ,i went to ,senna ,i tried to bring away a few small living trees with earth in a box4 ,they1 however1 all died when we came to ,kilimane4 ,failing in this mode of testing the point1 ,i submitted a few leaves and seed-vessels to my friend1 ,dr4 ,hooker1 who kindly informs me that they belong apparently to an apocyneous plant1 very nearly allied to the ,malouetia ,heudlotii 7of ,decaisne71 a native of ,senegambia4 ,dr4 ,h4 adds1 ,various plants of this natural order are reputed powerful febrifuges1 and some of them are said to equal the cinchona in their effects4 ,it is called in the native tongue ,kumbanzo4 ,the flowers are reported to be white4 ,the pods are in pairs1 a foot or fifteen inches in length1 and contain a groove on their inner sides4 ,the thick soft bark of the root is the part used by the natives2 the ,portuguese use that of the tree itself4 ,i immediately began to use a decoction of the bark of the root1 and my men found it so efficacious that they collected small quantities of it for themselves1 and kept it in little bags for future use4 ,some of them said that they knew it in their own country1 but ,i never happened to observe it4 ,the decoction is given after the first paroxysm of the complaint is over4 ,the ,portuguese believe it to have the same effects as the quinine1 and it may prove a substitute for that invaluable medicine4 ,there are numbers of other medicines in use among the natives1 but ,i have always been obliged to regret want of time to ascertain which were useful and which of no value4 ,we find a medicine in use by a tribe in one part of the country1 and the same plant employed by a tribe a thousand miles distant4 ,this surely must arise from some inherent virtue in the plant4 ,the ,boers under ,potgeiter visited ,delgoa ,bay for the first time about ten years ago1 in order to secure a port on the east coast for their republic4 ,they had come from a part of the interior where the disease called croup occasionally prevails4 ,there was no appearance of the disease among them at the period of their visit1 but the ,portuguese inhabitants of that bay found that they had left it among them1 and several adults were cut off by a form of the complaint called ',laryngismus stridulus'1 the disease of which the great ,washington died4 ,similar cases have occurred in the ,south ,sea ,islands4 ,ships have left diseases from which no one on board was suffering at the time of their visit4 ,many of the inhabitants here were cut down1 usually in three days from their first attack1 until a native doctor adopted the plan of scratching the root of the tongue freely with a certain root1 and giving a piece of it to be chewed4 ,the cure may have been effected by the scarification only1 but the ,portuguese have the strongest faith in the virtues of the root1 and always keep some of it within reach4 ,there are also other plants which the natives use in the treatment of fever1 and some of them produce 'diaphoresis' in a short space of time4 ,it is certain that we have got the knowledge of the most potent febrifuge in our pharmacopoeia from the natives of another country4 ,we have no cure for cholera and some other diseases4 ,it might be worth the investigation of those who visit ,africa to try and find other remedies in a somewhat similar way to that in which we found the quinine499 99 ,i add the native names of a few of their remedies in order to assist the inquirer3 ,mupanda panda3 this is used in fever for producing perspiration2 the leaves are named ,chirussa2 the roots dye red1 and are very astringent4 ,goho or ,go-o3 this is the ordeal medicine2 it is both purgative and emetic4 ,mutuva or ,mutumbue3 this plant contains so much oil that it serves as lights in ,londa2 it is an emollient drink for the cure of coughs1 and the pounded leaves answer as soap to wash the head4 ,nyamucu ucu has a curious softening effect on old dry grain4 ,mussakasi is believed to remove the effects of the ,go- o4 ,mudama is a stringent vermifuge4 ,mapubuza dyes a red color4 ,musikizi yields an oil4 ,shinkondo3 a virulent poison2 the ,maravi use it in their ordeal1 and it is very fatal4 ,kanunka utare is said to expel serpents and rats by its pungent smell1 which is not at all disagreeable to man2 this is probably a kind of ',zanthoxylon'1 perhaps the ,z4 melancantha of ,western ,africa1 as it is used to expel rats and serpents there4 ,mussonzoa dyes cloth black4 ,mussio3 the beans of this also dye black4 ,kangome1 with flowers and fruit like ,mocha coffee2 the leaves are much like those of the sloe1 and the seeds are used as coffee or eaten as beans4 ,kanembe- embe3 the pounded leaves used as an extemporaneous glue for mending broken vessels4 ,katunguru is used for killing fish4 ,mutavea ,nyerere3 an active caustic4 ,mudiacoro3 also an external caustic1 and used internally4 ,kapande3 another ordeal plant1 but used to produce 'diaphoresis'4 ,karumgasura3 also diaphoretic4 ,munyazi yields an oil1 and is one of the ingredients for curing the wounds of poisoned arrows4 ,uombue3 a large root employed in killing fish4 ,kakumate3 used in intermittents4 ,musheteko3 applied to ulcers1 and the infusion also internally in amenorrhoea4 ,inyakanyanya3 this is seen in small1 dark-colored1 crooked roots of pleasant aromatic smell and slightly bitter taste1 and is highly extolled in the treatment of fever2 it is found in ,manica4 ,eskinencia3 used in croup and sore-throat4 ,itaca or ,itaka3 for diaphoresis in fever2 this root is brought as an article of barter by the ,arabs to ,kilimane2 the natives purchase it eagerly4 ,mukundukundu3 a decoction used as a febrifuge in the same way as quinine2 it grows plentifully at ,shupanga1 and the wood is used as masts for launches4 ,i may here add the recipe of ,brother ,pedro of ,zumbo for the cure of poisoned wounds1 in order to show the similarity of practice among the natives of the ,zambesi1 from whom1 in all probability1 he acquired his knowledge1 and the ,bushmen of the ,kalahari4 ,it consists of equal parts of the roots of the ,calumba1 ,musheteko1 ,abutua1 ,batatinya1 ,paregekanto1 ,itaka1 or ,kapande1 put into a bottle and covered with common castor-oil4 ,as ,i have before observed1 ,i believe the oily ingredient is the effectual one1 and ought to be tried by any one who has the misfortune to get wounded by a ,bushman's or ,banyai arrow4 ,the only other metal1 besides gold1 we have in abundance in this region1 is iron1 and that is of excellent quality4 ,in some places it is obtained from what is called the specular iron ore1 and also from black oxide4 ,the latter has been well roasted in the operations of nature1 and contains a large proportion of the metal4 ,it occurs generally in tears or rounded lumps1 and is but slightly magnetic4 ,when found in the beds of rivers1 the natives know of its existence by the quantity of oxide on the surface1 and they find no difficulty in digging it with pointed sticks4 ,they consider ,english iron as rotten2 and ,i have seen1 when a javelin of their own iron lighted on the cranium of a hippopotamus1 it curled up like the proboscis of a butterfly1 and the owner would prepare it for future use by straightening it ,,cold with two stones4 ,i brought home some of the hoes which ,sekeletu gave me to purchase a canoe1 also some others obtained in ,kilimane1 and they have been found of such good quality that a friend of mine in ,birmingham has made an ,enfield rifle of them499 99 ,the following remarks are by a practical blacksmith1 one of the most experienced men in the gun-trade4 ,in this trade various qualities of iron are used1 and close attention is required to secure for each purpose the quality of iron peculiarly adapted to it3 ,the iron in the two spades strongly resembles ,swedish or ,russian2 it is highly carbonized4 ,the same qualities are found in both spades4 ,when chilled in water it has all the properties of steel3 see the piece marked ,i1 chilled at one end1 and left soft at the other4 ,when worked hot1 it is very malleable3 but cold1 it breaks quite short and brittle4 ,the great irregularity found in the working of the iron affords evidence that it has been prepared by inexperienced hands4 ,this is shown in the bending of the small spade2 the thick portion retains its crystallized nature1 while the thin part has been changed by the hammering it has undergone4 ,the large spade shows a very brittle fracture4 ,the iron is too brittle for gun-work2 it would be liable to break4 ,this iron1 if ,,repeatedly heated and hammered1 would become decarbonized1 and would then possess the qualities found in the spear-head1 which1 after being curled up by being struck against a hard substance1 was restored1 by hammering1 to its original form without injury4 ,the piece of iron marked ,,ii is a piece of gun-iron of fibrous quality1 such as will bend without breaking4 ,the piece marked ,,iii is of crystalline quality2 it has been submitted to a process which has changed it to ,,iiii2 ,,iii and ,,iiii are cut from the same bar4 ,the spade-iron has been submitted to the same process1 but no corresponding effect can be produced4 ,the iron ore exists in great abundance1 but ,i did not find any limestone in its immediate vicinity4 ,so far as ,i could learn1 there is neither copper nor silver4 ,malachite is worked by the people of ,cazembe1 but1 as ,i did not see it1 nor any other metal1 ,i can say nothing about it4 ,a few precious stones are met with1 and some parts are quite covered with agates4 ,the mineralogy of the district1 however1 has not been explored by any one competent to the task4 ,when my friend the commandant was fairly recovered1 and ,i myself felt strong again1 ,i prepared to descend the ,zambesi4 ,a number of my men were out elephant-hunting1 and others had established a brisk trade in firewood1 as their countrymen did at ,loanda4 ,i chose sixteen of those who could manage canoes to convey me down the river4 ,many more would have come1 but we were informed that there had been a failure of the crops at ,kilimane from the rains not coming at the proper time1 and thousands had died of hunger4 ,i did not hear of a single effort having been made to relieve the famishing by sending them food down the river4 ,those who perished were mostly slaves1 and others seemed to think that their masters ought to pay for their relief4 ,the sufferers were chiefly among those natives who inhabit the delta1 and who are subject to the ,portuguese4 ,they are in a state of slavery1 but are kept on farms and mildly treated4 ,many yield a certain rental of grain only to their owners1 and are otherwise free4 ,eight thousand are said to have perished4 ,major ,sicard lent me a boat which had been built on the river1 and sent also ,lieutenant ,miranda to conduct me to the coast4 ,a ,portuguese lady who had come with her brother from ,lisbon1 having been suffering for some days from a severe attack of fever1 died about three o'clock in the morning of the #bjth of ,april4 ,the heat of the body having continued unabated till six o'clock1 ,i was called in1 and found her bosom quite as warm as ,i ever did in a living case of fever4 ,this continued for three hours more4 ,as ,i had never seen a case in which fever-heat continued so long after death1 ,i delayed the funeral until unmistakable symptoms of dissolution occurred4 ,she was a widow1 only twenty-two years of age1 and had been ten years in ,africa4 ,i attended the funeral in the evening1 and was struck by the custom of the country4 ,a number of slaves preceded us1 and fired off many rounds of gunpowder in front of the body4 ,when a person of much popularity is buried1 all the surrounding chiefs send deputations to fire over the grave4 ,on one occasion at ,tete1 more than thirty barrels of gunpowder were expended4 ,early in the morning of the #bast the slaves of the deceased lady's brother went round the village making a lamentation1 and drums were beaten all day1 as they are at such times among the heathen4 ,the commandant provided for the journey most abundantly1 and gave orders to ,lieutenant ,miranda that ,i should not be allowed to pay for any thing all the way to the coast1 and sent messages to his friends ,senhors ,ferrao1 ,isidore1 ,asevedo1 and ,nunes1 to treat me as they would himself4 ,from every one of these gentlemen ,i am happy to acknowledge that ,i received most disinterested kindness1 and ,i ought to speak well forever of ,portuguese hospitality4 ,i have noted each little act of civility received1 because somehow or other we have come to hold the ,portuguese character in rather a low estimation4 ,this may have arisen partly from the pertinacity with which some of them have pursued the slave-trade1 and partly from the contrast which they now offer to their illustrious ancestors--the foremost navigators of the world4 ,if my specification of their kindnesses will tend to engender a more respectful feeling to the nation1 ,i shall consider myself well rewarded4 ,we had three large canoes in the company which had lately come up with goods from ,senna4 ,they are made very large and strong1 much larger than any we ever saw in the interior1 and might strike with great force against a rock and not be broken4 ,the men sit at the stern when paddling1 and there is usually a little shed made over a part of the canoe to shade the passengers from the sun4 ,the boat in which ,i went was furnished with such a covering1 so ,i sat quite comfortably4 ,chapter #cb4 ,leave ,tete and proceed down the ,river--,pass the ,stockade of ,bonga-- ,gorge of ,lupata--,spine of the ,world--,width of ,river--,islands--,war ,drum at ,shiramba--,canoe ,navigation--,reach ,senna--,its ruinous ,state--,landeens levy ,fines upon the ,inhabitants--,cowardice of native ,militia--,state of the ,revenue--,no direct ,trade with ,portugal--,attempts to revive the ,trade of ,eastern ,africa--,country round ,senna--,gorongozo1 a ,jesuit ,station--,manica1 the best ,gold ,region in ,eastern ,africa--,boat-building at ,senna--,our ,departure--,capture of a ,rebel ,stockade--,plants ,alfacinya and ,njefu at the ,confluence of the ,shire--,landeen ,opinion of the ,whites--,mazaro1 the point reached by ,captain ,parker--,his ,opinion respecting the ,navigation of the ,river from this to the ,ocean--,lieutenant ,hoskins' ,remarks on the same subject--,fever1 its ,effects--,kindly received into the ,house of ,colonel ,nunes at ,kilimane--,forethought of ,captain ,nolloth and ,dr4 ,walsh--,joy imbittered--,deep ,obligations to the ,earl of ,clarendon1 etc4--,on developing ,resources of the ,interior--,desirableness of ,missionary ,societies selecting healthy ,stations--,arrangements on leaving my ,men-- ,retrospect--,probable ,influence of the ,discoveries on ,slavery--,supply of ,cotton1 ,sugar1 etc41 by ,free ,labor--,commercial ,stations--,development of the ,resources of ,africa a ,work of ,time--,site of ,kilimane-- ,unhealthiness--,death of a shipwrecked ,crew from ,fever--,the ,captain saved by ,quinine--,arrival of ,h4 ,m4 ,brig ,frolic--,anxiety of one of my ,men to go to ,england--,rough ,passage in the ,boats to the ,ship--,sekwebu's ,alarm--,sail for ,mauritius--,sekwebu on board2 he becomes insane2 drowns himself--,kindness of ,major-,general ,c4 ,m4 ,hay--,escape ,shipwreck--,reach ,home4 ,we left ,tete at noon on the #bb;d1 and in the afternoon arrived at the garden of ,senhor ,a4 ,manoel de ,gomez1 son-in-law and nephew of ,bonga4 ,the ,commandant of ,tete had sent a letter to the rebel ,bonga1 stating that he ought to treat me kindly1 and he had deputed his son-in-law to be my host4 ,bonga is not at all equal to his father ,nyaude1 who was a man of great ability4 ,he is also in bad odor with the ,portuguese1 because he receives all runaway slaves and criminals4 ,he does not trust the ,portuguese1 and is reported to be excessively superstitious4 ,i found his son-in-law1 ,manoel1 extremely friendly1 and able to converse in a very intelligent manner4 ,he was in his garden when we arrived1 but soon dressed himself respectably1 and gave us a good tea and dinner4 ,after a breakfast of tea1 roasted eggs1 and biscuits next morning1 he presented six fowls and three goats as provisions for the journey4 ,when we parted from him we passed the stockade of ,bonga at the confluence of the ,luenya1 but did not go near it1 as he is said to be very suspicious4 ,the ,portuguese advised me not to take any observation1 as the instruments might awaken fears in ,bonga's mind1 but ,manoel said ,i might do so if ,i wished2 his garden1 however1 being above the confluence1 could not avail as a geographical point4 ,there are some good houses in the stockade4 ,the trees of which it is composed seemed to me to be living1 and could not be burned4 ,it was strange to see a stockade menacing the whole commerce of the river in a situation where the guns of a vessel would have full play on it1 but it is a formidable affair for those who have only muskets4 ,on one occasion1 when ,nyaude was attacked by ,kisaka1 they fought for weeks2 and though ,nyaude was reduced to cutting up his copper anklets for balls1 his enemies were not able to enter the stockade4 ,on the #bdth we sailed only about three hours1 as we had done the day before2 but having come to a small island at the western entrance of the gorge of ,lupata1 where ,dr4 ,lacerda is said to have taken an astronomical observation1 and called it the island of ,mozambique1 because it was believed to be in the same latitude1 or #ae;d #a'1 ,i wished to verify his position1 and remained over night3 my informants must have been mistaken1 for ,i found the island of ,mozambique here to be lat4 #af;d #cd' #df ,s4 ,respecting this range1 to which the gorge has given a name1 some ,portuguese writers have stated it to be so high that snow lies on it during the whole year1 and that it is composed of marble4 ,it is not so high in appearance as the ,campsie ,hills when seen from the ,vale of ,clyde4 ,the western side is the most abrupt1 and gives the idea of the greatest height1 as it rises up perpendicularly from the water six or seven hundred feet4 ,as seen from this island1 it is certainly no higher than ,arthur's ,seat appears from ,prince's ,street1 ,edinburgh4 ,the rock is compact silicious schist of a slightly reddish color1 and in thin strata2 the island on which we slept looks as if torn off from the opposite side of the gorge1 for the strata are twisted and torn in every direction4 ,the eastern side of the range is much more sloping than the western1 covered with trees1 and does not give the idea of altitude so much as the western4 ,it extends a considerable way into the ,maganja country in the north1 and then bends round toward the river again1 and ends in the lofty mountain ,morumbala1 opposite ,senna4 ,on the other or southern side it is straighter1 but is said to end in ,gorongozo1 a mountain west of the same point4 ,the person who called this ,lupata the spine of the world evidently did not mean to say that it was a translation of the word1 for it means a defile or gorge having perpendicular walls4 ,this range does not deserve the name of either ,cordillera or ,spine1 unless we are willing to believe that the world has a very small and very crooked back-bone4 ,we passed through the gorge in two hours1 and found it rather tortuous1 and between #bjj and #cjj yards wide4 ,the river is said to be here always excessively deep2 it seemed to me that a steamer could pass through it at full speed4 ,at the eastern entrance of ,lupata stand two conical hills2 they are composed of porphyry1 having large square crystals therein4 ,these hills are called ,moenda en ,goma1 which means a footprint of a wild beast4 ,another conical hill on the opposite bank is named ,kasisi 7priest71 from having a bald top4 ,we sailed on quickly with the current of the river1 and found that it spread out to more than two miles in breadth2 it is1 however1 full of islands1 which are generally covered with reeds1 and which1 previous to the war1 were inhabited1 and yielded vast quantities of grain4 ,we usually landed to cook breakfast1 and then went on quickly4 ,the breadth of water between the islands was now quite sufficient for a sailing vessel to tack1 and work her sails in2 the prevailing winds would blow her up the stream2 but ,i regretted that ,i had not come when the river was at its lowest rather than at its highest4 ,the testimony1 however1 of ,captain ,parker and ,lieutenant ,hoskins1 hereafter to be noticed1 may be considered conclusive as to the capabilities of this river for commercial purposes4 ,the ,portuguese state that there is high water during five months of the year1 and when it is low there is always a channel of deep water4 ,but this is very winding2 and as the river wears away some of the islands and forms others1 the course of the channel is often altered4 ,i suppose that an accurate chart of it made in one year would not be very reliable the next2 but ,i believe1 from all that ,i can learn1 that the river could be navigated in a small flat-bottomed steamer during the whole year as far as ,tete4 ,at this time a steamer of large size could have floated easily4 ,the river was measured at the latter place by the ,portuguese1 and found by them to be #ajej yards broad4 ,the body of water flowing past when ,i was there was very great1 and the breadth it occupied when among the islands had a most imposing effect4 ,i could not get a glimpse of either shore4 ,all the right bank beyond ,lupata is low and flat3 on the north1 the ranges of hills and dark lines below them are seen1 but from the boat it is impossible to see the shore4 ,i only guess the breadth of the river to be two miles2 it is probably more4 ,next day we landed at ,shiramba for breakfast1 having sailed #h-a_/b hours from ,lupata4 ,this was once the residence of a ,portuguese brigadier1 who spent large sums of money in embellishing his house and gardens3 these we found in entire ruin1 as his half-caste son had destroyed all1 and then rebelled against the ,portuguese1 but with less success than either ,nyaude or ,kisaka1 for he had been seized and sent a prisoner to ,mozambique a short time before our visit4 ,all the southern shore has been ravaged by the ,caffres1 who are here named ,landeens1 and most of the inhabitants who remain acknowledge the authority of ,bonga1 and not of the ,portuguese4 ,when at breakfast1 the people of ,shiramba commenced beating the drum of war4 ,lieutenant ,miranda1 who was well acquainted with the customs of the country1 immediately started to his feet1 and got all the soldiers of our party under arms2 he then demanded of the natives why the drum was beaten while we were there4 ,they gave an evasive reply2 and1 as they employ this means of collecting their neighbors when they intend to rob canoes1 our watchfulness may have prevented their proceeding farther4 ,we spent the night of the #bfth on the island called ,nkuesi1 opposite a remarkable saddle-shaped mountain1 and found that we were just on the #agth parallel of latitude4 ,the sail down the river was very fine2 the temperature becoming low1 it was pleasant to the feelings2 but the shores being flat and far from us1 the scenery was uninteresting4 ,we breakfasted on the #bgth at ,pita1 and found some half-caste ,portuguese had established themselves there1 after fleeing from the opposite bank to escape ,kisaka's people1 who were now ravaging all the ,maganja country4 ,on the afternoon of the #bgth we arrived at ,senna4 7,commandant ,isidore's house1 #cjj yards ,s4,w4 of the mud fort on the banks of the river3 lat4 #ag;d #bg' #a ,s41 long4 #ce;d #aj' ,e47 ,we found ,senna to be twenty-three and a half hours' sail from ,tete4 ,we had the current entirely in our favor1 but met various parties in large canoes toiling laboriously against it4 ,they use long ropes1 and pull the boats from the shore4 ,they usually take about twenty days to ascend the distance we had descended in about four4 ,the wages paid to boatmen are considered high4 ,part of the men who had accompanied me gladly accepted employment from ,lieutenant ,miranda to take a load of goods in a canoe from ,senna to ,tete4 ,i thought the state of ,tete quite lamentable1 but that of ,senna was ten times worse4 ,at ,tete there is some life2 here every thing is in a state of stagnation and ruin4 ,the fort1 built of sun-dried bricks1 has the grass growing over the walls1 which have been patched in some places by paling4 ,the ,landeens visit the village periodically1 and levy fines upon the inhabitants1 as they consider the ,portuguese a conquered tribe1 and very rarely does a native come to trade4 ,senhor ,isidore1 the commandant1 a man of considerable energy1 had proposed to surround the whole village with palisades as a protection against the ,landeens1 and the villagers were to begin this work the day after ,i left4 ,it was sad to look at the ruin manifest in every building1 but the half-castes appear to be in league with the rebels and ,landeens2 for when any attempt is made by the ,portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend themselves1 information is conveyed at once to the ,landeen camp1 and1 though the commandant prohibits the payment of tribute to the ,landeens1 on their approach the half-castes eagerly ransom themselves4 ,when ,i was there1 a party of ,kisaka's people were ravaging the fine country on the opposite shore4 ,they came down with the prisoners they had captured1 and forthwith the half-castes of ,senna went over to buy slaves4 ,encouraged by this1 ,kisaka's people came over into ,senna fully armed and beating their drums1 and were received into the house of a native ,portuguese4 ,they had the village at their mercy1 yet could have been driven off by half a dozen policemen4 ,the commandant could only look on with bitter sorrow4 ,he had soldiers1 it is true1 but it is notorious that the native militia of both ,senna and ,kilimane never think of standing to fight1 but invariably run away1 and leave their officers to be killed4 ,they are brave only among the peaceable inhabitants4 ,one of them1 sent from ,kilimane with a packet of letters or expresses1 arrived while ,i was at ,senna4 ,he had been charged to deliver them with all speed1 but ,senhor ,isidore had in the mean time gone to ,kilimane1 remained there a fortnight1 and reached ,senna again before the courier came4 ,he could not punish him4 ,we gave him a passage in our boat1 but he left us in the way to visit his wife1 and1 on urgent private business1 probably gave up the service altogether1 as he did not come to ,kilimane all the time ,i was there4 ,it is impossible to describe the miserable state of decay into which the ,portuguese possessions here have sunk4 ,the revenues are not equal to the expenses1 and every officer ,i met told the same tale1 that he had not received one farthing of pay for the last four years4 ,they are all forced to engage in trade for the support of their families4 ,senhor ,miranda had been actually engaged against the enemy during these four years1 and had been highly lauded in the commandant's dispatches to the home government1 but when he applied to the ,governor of ,kilimane for part of his four years' pay1 he offered him twenty dollars only4 ,miranda resigned his commission in consequence4 ,the common soldiers sent out from ,portugal received some pay in calico4 ,they all marry native women1 and1 the soil being very fertile1 the wives find but little difficulty in supporting their husbands4 ,there is no direct trade with ,portugal4 ,a considerable number of ,banians1 or natives of ,india1 come annually in small vessels with cargoes of ,english and ,indian goods from ,bombay4 ,it is not to be wondered at1 then1 that there have been attempts made of late years by speculative ,portuguese in ,lisbon to revive the trade of ,eastern ,africa by means of mercantile companies4 ,one was formally proposed1 which was modeled on the plan of our ,east ,india ,company2 and it was actually imagined that all the forts1 harbors1 lands1 etc41 might be delivered over to a company1 which would bind itself to develop the resources of the country1 build schools1 make roads1 improve harbors1 etc41 and1 after all1 leave the ,portuguese the option of resuming possession4 ,another effort has been made to attract commercial enterprise to this region by offering any mining company permission to search for the ores and work them4 ,such a company1 however1 would gain but little in the way of protection or aid from the government of ,mozambique1 as that can but barely maintain a hold on its own small possessions2 the condition affixed of importing at the company's own cost a certain number of ,portuguese from the island of ,madeira or the ,azores1 in order to increase the ,portuguese population in ,africa1 is impolitic4 ,taxes would also be levied on the minerals exported4 ,it is noticeable that all the companies which have been proposed in ,portugal have this put prominently in the preamble1 and for the abolition of the inhuman slave-trade4 ,this shows either that the statesmen in ,portugal are enlightened and philanthropic1 or it may be meant as a trap for ,english capitalists2 ,i incline to believe the former4 ,if the ,portuguese really wish to develop the resources of the rich country beyond their possessions1 they ought to invite the co-operation of other nations on equal terms with themselves4 ,let the pathway into the interior be free to all2 and1 instead of wretched forts1 with scarcely an acre of land around them which can be called their own1 let real colonies be made4 ,if1 instead of military establishments1 we had civil ones1 and saw emigrants going out with their wives1 plows1 and seeds1 rather than military convicts with bugles and kettle-drums1 we might hope for a return of prosperity to ,eastern ,africa4 ,the village of ,senna stands on the right bank of the ,zambesi4 ,there are many reedy islands in front of it1 and there is much bush in the country adjacent4 ,the soil is fertile1 but the village1 being in a state of ruin1 and having several pools of stagnant water1 is very unhealthy4 ,the bottom rock is the akose of ,brongniart1 or granitic grit1 and several conical hills of trap have burst through it4 ,one standing about half a mile west of the village is called ,baramuana1 which has another behind it2 hence the name1 which means carry a child on the back4 ,it is #cjj or #djj feet high1 and on the top lie two dismounted cannon1 which were used to frighten away the ,landeens1 who1 in one attack upon ,senna1 killed #aej of the inhabitants4 ,the prospect from ,baramuana is very fine2 below1 on the eastward1 lies the ,zambesi1 with the village of ,senna2 and some twenty or thirty miles beyond stands the lofty mountain ,morumbala1 probably #cjjj or #djjj feet high4 ,it is of an oblong shape1 and from its physiognomy1 which can be distinctly seen when the sun is in the west1 is evidently igneous4 ,on the northern end there is a hot sulphurous fountain1 which my ,portuguese friends refused to allow me to visit1 because the mountain is well peopled1 and the mountaineers are at present not friendly with the ,portuguese4 ,they have plenty of garden-ground and running water on its summit4 ,my friends at ,senna declined the responsibility of taking me into danger4 ,to the north of ,morumbala we have a fine view of the mountains of the ,maganja2 they here come close to the river1 and terminate in ,morumbala4 ,many of them are conical1 and the ,shire is reported to flow among them1 and to run on the ,senna side of ,morumbala before joining the ,zambesi4 ,on seeing the confluence afterward1 close to a low range of hills beyond ,morumbala1 ,i felt inclined to doubt the report1 as the ,shire must then flow parallel with the ,zambesi1 from which ,morumbala seems distant only twenty or thirty miles4 ,all around to the southeast the country is flat1 and covered with forest1 but near ,senna a number of little abrupt conical hills diversify the scenery4 ,to the west and north the country is also flat forest1 which gives it a sombre appearance2 but just in the haze of the horizon southwest by south1 there rises a mountain range equal in height to ,morumbala1 and called ,nyamonga4 ,in a clear day another range beyond this may be seen1 which is ,gorongozo1 once a station of the ,jesuits4 ,gorongozo is famed for its clear cold waters and healthiness1 and there are some inscriptions engraved on large square slabs on the top of the mountain1 which have probably been the work of the fathers4 ,as this lies in the direction of a district between ,manica and ,sofala1 which has been conjectured to be the ,ophir of ,king ,solomon1 the idea that first sprang up in my mind was1 that these monuments might be more ancient than the ,portuguese2 but1 on questioning some persons who had seen them1 ,i found that they were in ,roman characters1 and did not deserve a journey of six days to see them4 ,manica lies three days northwest of ,gorongozo1 and is the best gold country known in ,eastern ,africa4 ,the only evidence the ,portuguese have of its being the ancient ,ophir is1 that at ,sofala1 its nearest port1 pieces of wrought gold have been dug up near the fort and in the gardens4 ,they also report the existence of hewn stones in the neighborhood1 but these can not have been abundant1 for all the stones of the fort of ,sofala are said to have been brought from ,portugal4 ,natives whom ,i met in the country of ,sekeletu1 from ,manica1 or ,manoa1 as they call it1 state that there are several caves in the country1 and walls of hewn stones1 which they believe to have been made by their ancestors2 and there is1 according to the ,portuguese1 a small tribe of ,arabs there1 who have become completely like the other natives4 ,two rivers1 the ,motirikwe and ,sabia1 or ,sabe1 run through their country into the sea4 ,the ,portuguese were driven out of the country by the ,landeens1 but now talk of reoccupying ,manica4 ,the most pleasant sight ,i witnessed at ,senna was the negroes of ,senhor ,isidore building boats after the ,european model1 without any one to superintend their operations4 ,they had been instructed by a ,european master1 but now go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trees1 lay down the keel1 fit in the ribs1 and make very neat boats and launches1 valued at from #bj ,pounds to #ajj ,pounds4 ,senhor ,isidore had some of them instructed also in carpentry at ,rio ,janeiro1 and they constructed for him the handsomest house in ,kilimane1 the woodwork being all of country trees1 some of which are capable of a fine polish1 and very durable4 ,a medical opinion having been asked by the commandant respecting a better site for the village1 which1 lying on the low bank of the ,zambesi1 is very unhealthy1 ,i recommended imitation of the ,jesuits1 who had chosen the high1 healthy mountain of ,gorongozo1 and to select a new site on ,morumbala1 which is perfectly healthy1 well watered1 and where the ,shire is deep enough for the purpose of navigation at its base4 ,as the next resource1 ,i proposed removal to the harbor of ,mitilone1 which is at one of the mouths of the ,zambesi1 a much better port than ,kilimane1 and where1 if they must have the fever1 they would be in the way of doing more good to themselves and the country than they can do in their present situation4 ,had the ,portuguese possessed this territory as a real colony1 this important point would not have been left unoccupied2 as it is1 there is not even a native village placed at the entrance of this splendid river to show the way in4 ,on the #ith of ,may sixteen of my men were employed to carry government goods in canoes up to ,tete4 ,they were much pleased at getting this work4 ,on the #aath the whole of the inhabitants of ,senna1 with the commandant1 accompanied us to the boats4 ,a venerable old man1 son of a judge1 said they were in much sorrow on account of the miserable state of decay into which they had sunk1 and of the insolent conduct of the people of ,kisaka now in the village4 ,we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the commandant and ,senhor ,ferrao1 and sailed pleasantly down the broad river4 ,about thirty miles below ,senna we passed the mouth of the ,river ,zangwe on our right1 which farther up goes by the name of ,pungwe2 and about five miles farther on our left1 close to the end of a low range into which ,morumbala merges1 we crossed the mouth of the ,shire1 which seemed to be about #bjj yards broad4 ,a little inland from the confluence there is another rebel stockade1 which was attacked by ,ensign ,rebeiro with three ,european soldiers1 and captured2 they disarmed the rebels and threw the guns into the water4 ,this ensign and ,miranda volunteered to disperse the people of ,kisaka who were riding roughshod over the inhabitants of ,senna2 but the offer was declined1 the few real ,portuguese fearing the disloyal half-castes among whom they dwelt4 ,slavery and immorality have here done their work2 nowhere else does the ,european name stand at so low an ebb2 but what can be expected8 ,few ,portuguese women are ever taken to the colonies1 and here ,i did not observe that honorable regard for the offspring which ,i noticed in ,angola4 ,the son of a late governor of ,tete was pointed out to me in the condition and habit of a slave4 ,there is neither priest nor school at ,senna1 though there are ruins of churches and convents4 ,on passing the ,shire we observed great quantities of the plant ,alfacinya1 already mentioned1 floating down into the ,zambesi4 ,it is probably the ',pistia stratiotes'1 a gigantic duck-weed4 ,it was mixed with quantities of another aquatic plant1 which the ,barotse named ,njefu1 containing in the petiole of the leaf a pleasant-tasted nut4 ,this was so esteemed by ,sebituane that he made it part of his tribute from the subjected tribes4 ,dr4 ,hooker kindly informs me that the njefu is probably a species of ',trapa'1 the nuts of which are eaten in the south of ,europe and in ,india4 ,government derives a large revenue from them in ,kashmir1 amounting to #ab1jjj ,pounds per annum for #abh1jjj ass-loads6 ,the ancient ,thracians are said to have eaten them largely4 ,in the south of ,france they are called water-chestnuts4 ,the existence of these plants in such abundance in the ,shire may show that it flows from large collections of still water4 ,we found them growing in all the still branches and lagoons of the ,leeambye in the far north1 and there also we met a beautiful little floating plant1 the ',azolla ,nilotica'1 which is found in the upper ,nile4 ,they are seldom seen in flowing streams4 ,a few miles beyond the ,shire we left the hills entirely1 and sailed between extensive flats4 ,the banks seen in the distance are covered with trees4 ,we slept on a large inhabited island1 and then came to the entrance of the ,river ,mutu 7latitude #ah;d #c' #cg ,s41 longitude #ce;d #df' ,e473 the point of departure is called ,mazaro1 or mouth of the ,mutu4 ,the people who live on the north are called ,baroro1 and their country ,bororo4 ,the whole of the right bank is in subjection to the ,landeens1 who1 it was imagined1 would levy a tribute upon us1 for this they are accustomed to do to passengers4 ,i regret that we did not meet them1 for1 though they are named ,caffres1 ,i am not sure whether they are of the ,zulu family or of the ,mashona4 ,i should have liked to form their acquaintance1 and to learn what they really think of white men4 ,i understood from ,sekwebu1 and from one of ,changamera's people who lives at ,linyanti1 and was present at the attack on ,senna1 that they consider the whites as a conquered tribe4 ,the ,zambesi at ,mazaro is a magnificent river1 more than half a mile wide1 and without islands4 ,the opposite bank is covered with forests of fine timber2 but the delta which begins here is only an immense flat1 covered with high1 coarse grass and reeds1 with here and there a few mango and cocoanut trees4 ,this was the point which was reached by the late lamented ,captain ,parker1 who fell at the ,sulina mouth of the ,danube4 ,i had a strong desire to follow the ,zambesi farther1 and ascertain where this enormous body of water found its way into the sea2 but on hearing from the ,portuguese that he had ascended to this point1 and had been highly pleased with the capabilities of the river1 ,i felt sure that his valuable opinion must be in possession of the ,admiralty4 ,on my arrival in ,england ,i applied to ,captain ,washington1 ,hydrographer to the ,admiralty1 and he promptly furnished the document for publication by the ,royal ,geographical ,society4 ,the river between ,mazaro and the sea must therefore be judged of from the testimony of one more competent to decide on its merits than a mere landsman like myself4 ',on the ,quilimane and ,zambesi ,rivers'4 ,from the ,journal of the late ,capt4 ,,hyde ,,parker1 ,r4,n41 ,h4 ,m4 ,brig ,pantaloon4 ,the ,luabo is the main outlet of the ,great ,zambesi4 ,in the rainy season--,january and ,february principally--the whole country is overflowed1 and the water escapes by the different rivers as far up as ,quilimane2 but in the dry season neither ,quilimane nor ,olinda communicates with it4 ,the position of the river is rather incorrect in the ,admiralty chart1 being six miles too much to the southward1 and also considerably to the westward4 ,indeed1 the coast from here up to ,tongamiara seems too far to the westward4 ,the entrance to the ,luabo ,river is about two miles broad1 and is easily distinguishable1 when abreast of it1 by a bluff 7if ,i may so term it7 of high1 straight trees1 very close together1 on the western side of the entrance4 ,the bar may be said to be formed by two series of sand-banks2 that running from the eastern point runs diagonally across 7opposite87 the entrance and nearly across it4 ,its western extremity is about two miles outside the west point4 ,the bank running out from the west point projects to the southward three miles and a half1 passing not one quarter of a mile from the eastern or cross bank4 ,this narrow passage is the ,,bar ,,passage4 ,it breaks completely across at low water1 except under very extraordinary circumstances4 ,at this time--low water--a great portion of the banks are uncovered2 in some places they are seven or eight feet above water4 ,on these banks there is a break at all times1 but in fine weather1 at high water1 a boat may cross near the east point4 ,there is very little water1 and1 in places1 a nasty race and bubble1 so that caution is requisite4 ,the best directions for going in over the regular bar passage1 according to my experience1 are as follows3 ,steer down well to the eastward of the bar passage1 so as to avoid the outer part of the western shoals1 on which there is usually a bad sea4 ,when you get near the ,,cross-,,bar1 keep along it till the bluff of trees on the west side of the entrance bears ,n4,e42 you may then steer straight for it4 ,this will clear the end of the ,,cross-,,bar1 and1 directly you are within that1 the water is smooth4 ,the worst sea is generally just without the bar passage4 ,within the points the river widens at first and then contracts again4 ,about three miles from the ,tree ,bluff is an island2 the passage up the river is the right-hand side of it1 and deep4 ,the plan will best explain it4 ,the rise and fall of the tide at the entrance of the river being at springs twenty feet1 any vessel can get in at that time1 but1 with all these conveniences for traffic1 there is none here at present4 ,the water in the river is fresh down to the bar with the ebb tide1 and in the rainy season it is fresh at the surface quite outside4 ,in the rainy season1 at the full and change of the moon1 the ,zambesi frequently overflows its banks1 making the country for an immense distance one great lake1 with only a few small eminences above the water4 ,on the banks of the river the huts are built on piles1 and at these times the communication is only in canoes2 but the waters do not remain up more than three or four days at a time4 ,the first village is about eight miles up the river1 on the western bank1 and is opposite to another branch of the river called ',muselo'1 which discharges itself into the sea about five miles to the eastward4 ,the village is extensive1 and about it there is a very large quantity of land in cultivation2 calavances1 or beans1 of different sorts1 rice1 and pumpkins1 are the principal things4 ,i saw also about here some wild cotton1 apparently of very good quality1 but none is cultivated4 ,the land is so fertile as to produce almost any 7thing87 without much trouble4 ,at this village is a very large house1 mud-built1 with a court-yard4 ,i believe it to have been used as a barracoon for slaves1 several large cargoes having been exported from this river4 ,i proceeded up the river as far as its junction with the ,quilimane ,river1 called ',boca do ,rio'1 by my computation between #gj and #hj miles from the entrance4 ,the influence of the tides is felt about #be or #cj miles up the river4 ,above that1 the stream1 in the dry season1 runs from #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b miles an hour1 but in the rains much stronger4 ,the banks of the river1 for the first #cj miles1 are generally thickly clothed with trees1 with occasional open glades4 ,there are many huts and villages on both sides1 and a great deal of cultivation4 ,at one village1 about #ag miles up on the eastern bank1 and distinguished by being surrounded by an immense number of bananas and plantain-trees1 a great quantity of excellent peas are cultivated2 also cabbages1 tomatoes1 onions1 etc4 ,above this there are not many inhabitants on the left or west bank1 although it is much the finest country1 being higher1 and abounding in cocoanut palms1 the eastern bank being sandy and barren4 ,the reason is1 that some years back the ,landeens1 or ,caffres1 ravaged all this country1 killing the men and taking the women as slaves1 but they have never crossed the river2 hence the natives are afraid to settle on the west bank1 and the ,portuguese owners of the different 'prasos' have virtually lost them4 ,the banks of the river continue mostly sandy1 with few trees1 except some cocoanut palms1 until the southern end of the large plantation of ,nyangue1 formed by the river about #bj miles from ,maruru4 ,here the country is more populous and better cultivated1 the natives a finer race1 and the huts larger and better constructed4 ,maruru belongs to ,senor ,asevedo1 of ,quilimane1 well known to all ,english officers on the east coast for his hospitality4 ,the climate here is much cooler than nearer the sea1 and ,asevedo has successfully cultivated most ,european as well as tropical vegetables4 ,the sugar-cane thrives1 as also coffee and cotton1 and indigo is a weed4 ,cattle here are beautiful1 and some of them might show with credit in ,england4 ,the natives are intelligent1 and under a good government this fine country might become very valuable4 ,three miles from ,maruru is ,mesan1 a very pretty village among palm and mango trees4 ,there is here a good house belonging to a ,senor ,ferrao2 close by is the canal 7,mutu7 of communication between the ,quilimane and ,zambesi rivers1 which in the rainy season is navigable 7874 ,i visited it in the month of ,october1 which is about the dryest time of the year2 it was then a dry canal1 about #cj or #dj yards wide1 overgrown with trees and grass1 and1 at the bottom1 at least #af or #ag feet above the level of the ,zambesi1 which was running beneath4 ,in the rains1 by the marks ,i saw1 the entrance rise of the river must be very nearly #cj feet1 and the volume of water discharged by it 7the ,zambesi7 enormous4 ,above ,maruru the country begins to become more hilly1 and the high mountains of ,boruru are in sight2 the first view of these is obtained below ,nyangue1 and they must be of considerable height1 as from this they are distant above #dj miles4 ,they are reported to contain great mineral wealth2 gold and copper being found in the range1 as also ,,coal 7874 ,the natives 7,landeens7 are a bold1 independent race1 who do not acknowledge the ,portuguese authority1 and even make them pay for leave to pass unmolested4 ,throughout the whole course of the river hippopotami were very abundant1 and at one village a chase by the natives was witnessed4 ,they harpoon the animal with a barbed lance1 to which is attached1 by a cord #c or #d fathoms long1 an inflated bladder4 ,the natives follow in their canoes1 and look out to fix more harpoons as the animal rises to blow1 and1 when exhausted1 dispatch him with their lances4 ,it is1 in fact1 nearly similar to a whale-hunt4 ,elephants and lions are also abundant on the western side2 the latter destroy many of the blacks annually1 and are much feared by them4 ,alligators are said to be numerous1 but ,i did not see any4 ,the voyage up to ,maruru occupied seven days1 as ,i did not work the men at the oar1 but it might be done in four2 we returned to the bar in two and a half days4 ,there is another mouth of the ,zambesi seven miles to the westward of ,luabo1 which was visited by the ',castor's pinnace'2 and ,i was assured by ,lieutenant ,hoskins that the bar was better than the one ,i visited4 ,the conclusions of ,captain ,parker are strengthened by those of ,lieut4 ,a4 ,h4 ,h4 ,hoskins1 who was on the coast at the same time1 and also visited this spot4 ,having applied to my friend for his deliberate opinion on the subject1 he promptly furnished the following note in ,january last3 ,the ,zambesi appears to have five principal mouths1 of which the ,luabo is the most southern and most navigable2 ,cumana1 and two whose names ,i do not know1 not having myself visited it1 lying between it and the ,quilimane1 and the rise and fall at spring tides on the bar of the ,luabo is #bb feet2 and as1 in the passage1 there is ,,never less than four feet 7,i having crossed it at dead low-water--springs71 this would give an average depth sufficient for any commercial purposes4 ,the rise and fall is six feet greater1 the passages narrow and more defined1 consequently deeper and more easily found than that of the ,quilimane ,river4 ,the river above the bar is very tortuous1 but deep2 and it is observable that the influence of the tide is felt much higher in this branch than in the others2 for whereas in the ,catrina and ,cumana ,i have obtained drinkable water a very short distance from the mouth1 in the ,luabo ,i have ascended seventy miles without finding the saltness perceptibly diminished4 ,this would facilitate navigation1 and ,i have no hesitation in saying that little difficulty would be experienced in conveying a steam-vessel of the size and capabilities of the gunboat ,i lately commanded as high as the branching off of the ,quilimane ,river 7,mazaro71 which1 in the dry season1 is observed many yards above the ,luabo 7main stream72 though ,i have been told by the ,portuguese that the freshes which come down in ,december and ,march fill it temporarily4 ,these freshes deepen the river considerably at that time of the year1 and freshen the water many miles from the coast4 ,the population of the delta1 except in the immediate neighborhood of the ,portuguese1 appeared to be very sparse4 ,antelopes and hippopotami were plentiful2 the former tame and easily shot4 ,i inquired frequently of both natives and ,portuguese if slavers were in the habit of entering there to ship their cargoes1 but could not ascertain that they have ever done so in any except the ,quilimane4 ,with common precaution the rivers are not unhealthy2 for1 during the whole time ,i was employed in them 7off and on during eighteen months71 in open boats and at all times of the year1 frequently absent from the ship for a month or six weeks at a time1 ,i had not1 in my boat's crew of fourteen men1 more than two1 and those mild1 cases of fever4 ,too much importance can not be ascribed to the use of quinine1 to which ,i attribute our comparative immunity1 and with which our judicious commander1 ,commodore ,wyvill1 kept us amply supplied4 ,i hope these few remarks may be of some little use in confirming your views of the utility of that magnificent river4 ,a4 ,h4 ,h4 ,hoskins4 ,it ought to be remembered that the testimony of these gentlemen is all the more valuable1 because they visited the river when the water was at its lowest1 and the surface of the ,zambesi was not1 as it was now1 on a level with and flowing into the ,mutu1 but sixteen feet beneath its bed4 ,the ,mutu1 at the point of departure1 was only ten or twelve yards broad1 shallow1 and filled with aquatic plants4 ,trees and reeds along the banks overhang it so much1 that1 though we had brought canoes and a boat from ,tete1 we were unable to enter the ,mutu with them1 and left them at ,mazaro4 ,during most of the year this part of the ,mutu is dry1 and we were even now obliged to carry all our luggage by land for about fifteen miles4 ,as ,kilimane is called1 in all the ,portuguese documents1 the capital of the rivers of ,senna1 it seemed strange to me that the capital should be built at a point where there was no direct water conveyance to the magnificent river whose name it bore2 and1 on inquiry1 ,i was informed that the whole of the ,mutu was large in days of yore1 and admitted of the free passage of great launches from ,kilimane all the year round1 but that now this part of the ,mutu had been filled up4 ,i was seized by a severe tertian fever at ,mazaro1 but went along the right bank of the ,mutu to the ,n4,n4,e4 and ,e4 for about fifteen miles4 ,we then found that it was made navigable by a river called the ,pangazi1 which comes into it from the north4 ,another river1 flowing from the same direction1 called the ,luare1 swells it still more2 and1 last of all1 the ,likuare1 with the tide1 make up the river of ,kilimane4 ,the ,mutu at ,mazaro is simply a connecting link1 such as is so often seen in ,africa1 and neither its flow nor stoppage affects the river of ,kilimane4 ,the waters of the ,pangazi were quite clear compared with those of the ,zambesi499 99 ,i owe the following information1 of a much later date1 also to the politeness of ,captain ,washington4 ,h4 ,m4 sloop ,grecian visited the coast in #aheb-c1 and the master remarks that the entrance to the ,luabo is in lat4 #ah;d #ea' ,s41 long4 #cf;d #ab' ,e41 and may be known by a range of hummocks on its eastern side1 and very low land to the ,s4,w4 ,the entrance is narrow1 and1 as with all the rivers on this coast1 is fronted by a bar1 which renders the navigation1 particularly for boats1 very dangerous with the wind to the south of east or west4 ,our boats proceeded twenty miles up this river1 #b fathoms on the bar1 then #b-a_/b--e--f--g fathoms4 ,it was navigable farther up1 but they did not proceed4 ,it is quite possible for a moderate-sized vessel to cross the bar at spring tides1 and be perfectly landlocked and hidden among the trees4 ,the ,maiudo1 in #ah;d #eb' ,s41 #cf;d #ab' ,e41 ,,is ,,not ,,mentioned ,,in ,,horsburgh1 ,,nor ,,laid ,,down ,,in ,,the ,,admiralty ,,chart1 but is1 nevertheless1 one of some importance1 and appears to be one of the principal stations for shipping slaves1 as the boats found two barracoons1 about #bj miles up1 bearing every indication of having been very recently occupied1 and which had good presumptive evidence that the ',cauraigo'1 a brig under ,american colors1 had embarked a cargo from thence but a short time before4 ,the river is fronted by a portion of the ,elephant ,shoals1 at the distance of three or four miles outside4 ,the eastern bank is formed by level sea-cliffs 7as seen from the ship it has that appearance71 high for this part of the coast1 and conspicuous4 ,the western side is composed of thick trees1 and terminates in dead wood1 from which we called it ',dead-wood ,point'4 ,after crossing the bar it branches off in a ,w4 and ,n4,w4 direction1 the latter being the principal arm1 up which the boats went some #cj miles1 or about #aj beyond the barracoon4 ,fresh water can be obtained almost immediately inside the entrance1 as the stream runs down very rapidly with the ebb tide4 ,the least water crossing the bar 7low-water-- springs7 was #a-a_/b fathom1 one cast only therefrom from #b to #e fathoms1 another #g fathoms nearly the whole way up4 ,the ,catrina1 latitude #ah;d #ej' south1 longitude #cf;d #bd' east4 ,the external appearance of this river is precisely similar to that of the ,maiudo1 so much so that it is difficult to distinguish them by any feature of the land4 ,the longitude is the best guide1 or1 in the absence of observation1 perhaps the angles contained by the extremes of land will be serviceable4 ,thus1 at nine miles off the ,maiudo the angle contained by the above was seven points1 the bearing being ,n4,e4 ,w4 of ,n4,w4 7872 while off the ,catrina1 at the same distance from shore 7about nine miles71 the angle was only #c-a_/b to #d points1 being ,n4 to ,n4,w4 ,as we did not send the boats up this river1 no information was obtained4 ,my fever became excessively severe in consequence of traveling in the hot sun1 and the long grass blocking up the narrow path so as to exclude the air4 ,the pulse beat with amazing force1 and felt as if thumping against the crown of the head4 ,the stomach and spleen swelled enormously1 giving me1 for the first time1 an appearance which ,i had been disposed to laugh at among the ,portuguese4 ,at ,interra we met ,senhor ,asevedo1 a man who is well known by all who ever visited ,kilimane1 and who was presented with a gold chronometer watch by the ,admiralty for his attentions to ,english officers4 ,he immediately tendered his large sailing launch1 which had a house in the stern4 ,this was greatly in my favor1 for it anchored in the middle of the stream1 and gave me some rest from the mosquitoes1 which in the whole of the delta are something frightful4 ,sailing comfortably in this commodious launch along the river of ,kilimane1 we reached that village 7latitude #ag;d #ec' #h ,s41 longitude #cf;d #dj' ,e47 on the #bjth of ,may1 #ahef1 which wanted only a few days of being four years since ,i started from ,cape ,town4 ,here ,i was received into the house of ,colonel ,galdino ,jose ,nunes1 one of the best men in the country4 ,i had been three years without hearing from my family2 letters having frequently been sent1 but somehow or other1 with but a single exception1 they never reached me4 ,i received1 however1 a letter from ,admiral ,trotter1 conveying information of their welfare1 and some newspapers1 which were a treat indeed4 ,her majesty's brig the ,frolic had called to inquire for me in the ,november previous1 and ,captain ,nolluth1 of that ship1 had most considerately left a case of wine2 and his surgeon1 ,dr4 ,james ,walsh1 divining what ,i should need most1 left an ounce of quinine4 ,these gifts made my heart overflow4 ,i had not tasted any liquor whatever during the time ,i had been in ,africa2 but when reduced in ,angola to extreme weakness1 ,i found much benefit from a little wine1 and took from ,loanda one bottle of brandy in my medicine chest1 intending to use it if it were again required2 but the boy who carried it whirled the box upside down1 and smashed the bottle1 so ,i can not give my testimony either in favor of or against the brandy4 ,but my joy on reaching the east coast was sadly imbittered by the news that ,commander ,mac,lune1 of ,h4 ,m4 brigantine ,dart1 on coming in to ,kilimane to pick me up1 had1 with ,lieutenant ,woodruffe and five men1 been lost on the bar4 ,i never felt more poignant sorrow4 ,it seemed as if it would have been easier for me to have died for them1 than that they should all be cut off from the joys of life in generously attempting to render me a service4 ,i would here acknowledge my deep obligations to the ,earl of ,clarendon1 to the admiral at the ,cape1 and others1 for the kind interest they manifested in my safety2 even the inquiries made were very much to my advantage4 ,i also refer with feelings of gratitude to the ,governor of ,mozambique for offering me a passage in the schooner ,zambesi1 belonging to that province2 and ,i shall never forget the generous hospitality of ,colonel ,nunes and his nephew1 with whom ,i remained4 ,one of the discoveries ,i have made is that there are vast numbers of good people in the world1 and ,i do most devoutly tender my unfeigned thanks to that ,gracious ,one who mercifully watched over me in every position1 and influenced the hearts of both black and white to regard me with favor4 ,with the united testimony of ,captain ,parker and ,lieutenant ,hoskins1 added to my own observation1 there can be no reasonable doubt but that the real mouth of the ,zambesi is available for the purposes of commerce4 ,the delta is claimed by the ,portuguese1 and the southern bank of the ,luabo1 or ,cuama1 as this part of the ,zambesi is sometimes called1 is owned by independent natives of the ,caffre family4 ,the ,portuguese are thus near the main entrance to the new central region2 and as they have of late years shown1 in an enlightened and liberal spirit1 their desire to develop the resources of ,eastern ,africa by proclaiming ,mozambique a free port1 it is to be hoped that the same spirit will lead them to invite mercantile enterprise up the ,zambesi1 by offering facilities to those who may be led to push commerce into the regions lying far beyond their territory4 ,their wish to co-operate in the noble work of developing the resources of the rich country beyond could not be shown better than by placing a village with ,zambesian pilots at the harbor of ,mitilone1 and erecting a light-house for the guidance of seafaring men4 ,if this were done1 no nation would be a greater gainer by it than the ,portuguese themselves1 and assuredly no other needs a resuscitation of its commerce more4 ,their kindness to me personally makes me wish for a return of their ancient prosperity2 and the most liberal and generous act of the enlightened young king ,h4 ,m4 ,don ,pedro1 in sending out orders to support my late companions at the public expense of the province of ,mozambique until my return to claim them1 leads me to hope for encouragement in every measure for either the development of commerce1 the elevation of the natives1 or abolition of the trade in slaves4 ,as far as ,i am myself concerned1 the opening of the new central country is a matter for congratulation only in so far as it opens up a prospect for the elevation of the inhabitants4 ,as ,i have elsewhere remarked1 ,i view the end of the geographical feat as the beginning of the missionary enterprise4 ,i take the latter term in its most extended signification1 and include every effort made for the amelioration of our race1 the promotion of all those means by which ,god in ,his providence is working1 and bringing all ,his dealings with man to a glorious consummation4 ,each man in his sphere1 either knowingly or unwittingly1 is performing the will of our ,father in heaven4 ,men of science1 searching after hidden truths1 which1 when discovered1 will1 like the electric telegraph1 bind men more closely together--soldiers battling for the right against tyranny--sailors rescuing the victims of oppression from the grasp of heartless men-stealers--merchants teaching the nations lessons of mutual dependence--and many others1 as well as missionaries1 all work in the same direction1 and all efforts are overruled for one glorious end4 ,if the reader has accompanied me thus far1 he may1 perhaps1 be disposed to take an interest in the objects ,i propose to myself1 should ,god mercifully grant me the honor of doing something more for ,africa4 ,as the highlands on the borders of the central basin are comparatively healthy1 the first object seems to be to secure a permanent path thither1 in order that ,europeans may pass as quickly as possible through the unhealthy region near the coast4 ,the river has not been surveyed1 but at the time ,i came down there was abundance of water for a large vessel1 and this continues to be the case during four or five months of each year4 ,the months of low water still admit of navigation by launches1 and would permit small vessels equal to the ,thames steamers to ply with ease in the deep channel4 ,if a steamer were sent to examine the ,zambesi1 ,i would recommend one of the lightest draught1 and the months of ,may1 ,june1 and ,july for passing through the delta2 and this not so much for fear of want of water as the danger of being grounded on a sand or mud bank1 and the health of the crew being endangered by the delay4 ,in the months referred to no obstruction would be incurred in the channel below ,tete4 ,twenty or thirty miles above that point we have a small rapid1 of which ,i regret my inability to speak1 as 7mentioned already7 ,i did not visit it4 ,but1 taking the distance below this point1 we have1 in round numbers1 #cjj miles of navigable river4 ,above this rapid we have another reach of #cjj miles1 with sand1 but no mud banks in it1 which brings us to the foot of the eastern ridge4 ,let it not1 however1 be thought that a vessel by going thither would return laden with ivory and gold-dust4 ,the ,portuguese of ,tete pick up all the merchandise of the tribes in their vicinity1 and1 though ,i came out by traversing the people with whom the ,portuguese have been at war1 it does not follow that it will be perfectly safe for others to go in whose goods may be a stronger temptation to cupidity than any thing ,i possessed4 ,when we get beyond the hostile population mentioned1 we reach a very different race4 ,on the latter my chief hopes at present rest4 ,all of them1 however1 are willing and anxious to engage in trade1 and1 while eager for this1 none have ever been encouraged to cultivate the raw materials of commerce4 ,their country is well adapted for cotton2 and ,i venture to entertain the hope that by distributing seeds of better kinds than that which is found indigenous1 and stimulating the natives to cultivate it by affording them the certainty of a market for all they may produce1 we may engender a feeling of mutual dependence between them and ourselves4 ,i have a twofold object in view1 and believe that1 by guiding our missionary labors so as to benefit our own country1 we shall thereby more effectually and permanently benefit the heathen4 ,seven years were spent at ,kolobeng in instructing my friends there2 but the country being incapable of raising materials for exportation1 when the ,boers made their murderous attack and scattered the tribe for a season1 none sympathized except a few ,christian friends4 ,had the people of ,kolobeng been in the habit of raising the raw materials of ,english commerce1 the outrage would have been felt in ,england2 or1 what is more likely to have been the case1 the people would have raised themselves in the scale by barter1 and have become1 like the ,basutos of ,moshesh and people of ,kuruman1 possessed of fire-arms1 and the ,boers would never have made the attack at all4 ,we ought to encourage the ,africans to cultivate for our markets1 as the most effectual means1 next to the ,gospel1 of their elevation4 ,it is in the hope of working out this idea that ,i propose the formation of stations on the ,zambesi beyond the ,portuguese territory1 but having communication through them with the coast4 ,a chain of stations admitting of easy and speedy intercourse1 such as might be formed along the flank of the eastern ridge1 would be in a favorable position for carrying out the objects in view4 ,the ,london ,missionary ,society has resolved to have a station among the ,makololo on the north bank1 and another on the south among the ,matebele4 ,the ,church--,wesleyan1 ,baptist1 and that most energetic body1 the ,free ,church--could each find desirable locations among the ,batoka and adjacent tribes4 ,the country is so extensive there is no fear of clashing4 ,all classes of ,christians find that sectarian rancor soon dies out when they are working together among and for the real heathen4 ,only let the healthy locality be searched for and fixed upon1 and then there will be free scope to work in the same cause in various directions1 without that loss of men which the system of missions on the unhealthy coasts entails4 ,while respectfully submitting the plan to these influential societies1 ,i can positively state that1 when fairly in the interior1 there is perfect security for life and property among a people who will at least listen and reason4 ,eight of my men begged to be allowed to come as far as ,kilimane1 and1 thinking that they would there see the ocean1 ,i consented to their coming1 though the food was so scarce in consequence of a dearth that they were compelled to suffer some hunger4 ,they would fain have come farther2 for when ,sekeletu parted with them1 his orders were that none of them should turn until they had reached ,ma ,robert and brought her back with them4 ,on my explaining the difficulty of crossing the sea1 he said1 ,wherever you lead1 they must follow4 ,as ,i did not know well how ,i should get home myself1 ,i advised them to go back to ,tete1 where food was abundant1 and there await my return4 ,i bought a quantity of calico and brass wire with ten of the smaller tusks which we had in our charge1 and sent the former back as clothing to those who remained at ,tete4 ,as there were still twenty tusks left1 ,i deposited them with ,colonel ,nunes1 that1 in the event of any thing happening to prevent my return1 the impression might not be produced in the country that ,i had made away with ,sekeletu's ivory4 ,i instructed ,colonel ,nunes1 in case of my death1 to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to my men2 but ,i intended1 if my life should be prolonged1 to purchase the goods ordered by ,sekeletu in ,england with my own money1 and pay myself on my return out of the price of the ivory4 ,this ,i explained to the men fully1 and they1 understanding the matter1 replied1 ,nay1 father1 you will not die2 you will return to take us back to ,sekeletu4 ,they promised to wait till ,i came back1 and1 on my part1 ,i assured them that nothing but death would prevent my return4 ,this ,i said1 though while waiting at ,kilimane a letter came from the ,directors of the ,london ,missionary ,society stating that they were restricted in their power of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the ,gospel1 and that the financial circumstances of the society were not such as to afford any ground of hope that it would be in a position1 within any definite period1 to enter upon untried1 remote1 and difficult fields of labor4 ,this has been explained since as an effusion caused by temporary financial depression2 but1 feeling perfect confidence in my ,makololo friends1 ,i was determined to return and trust to their generosity4 ,the old love of independence1 which ,i had so strongly before joining the society1 again returned4 ,it was roused by a mistaken view of what this letter meant2 for the directors1 immediately on my reaching home1 saw the great importance of the opening1 and entered with enlightened zeal on the work of sending the ,gospel into the new field4 ,it is to be hoped that their constituents will not only enable them to begin1 but to carry out their plans1 and that no material depression will ever again be permitted1 nor appearance of spasmodic benevolence recur4 ,while ,i hope to continue the same cordial co-operation and friendship which have always characterized our intercourse1 various reasons induce me to withdraw from pecuniary dependence on any society4 ,i have done something for the heathen1 but for an aged mother1 who has still more sacred claims than they1 ,i have been able to do nothing1 and a continuance of the connection would be a perpetuation of my inability to make any provision for her declining years4 ,in addition to clergyman's sore throat1 which partially disabled me from the work1 my father's death imposed new obligations2 and a fresh source of income having been opened to me without my asking1 ,i had no hesitation in accepting what would enable me to fulfill my duty to my aged parent as well as to the heathen4 ,if the reader remembers the way in which ,i was led1 while teaching the ,bakwains1 to commence exploration1 he will1 ,i think1 recognize the hand of ,providence4 ,anterior to that1 when ,mr4 ,moffat began to give the ,bible--the ,magna ,charta of all the rights and privileges of modern civilization--to the ,bechuanas1 ,sebituane went north1 and spread the language into which he was translating the sacred oracles in a new region larger than ,france4 ,sebituane1 at the same time1 rooted out hordes of bloody savages1 among whom no white man could have gone without leaving his skull to ornament some village4 ,he opened up the way for me--let us hope also for the ,bible4 ,then1 again1 while ,i was laboring at ,kolobeng1 seeing only a small arc of the cycle of ,providence1 ,i could not understand it1 and felt inclined to ascribe our successive and prolonged droughts to the wicked one4 ,but when forced by these and the ,boers to become explorer1 and open a new country in the north rather than set my face southward1 where missionaries are not needed1 the gracious ,spirit of ,god influenced the minds of the heathen to regard me with favor2 the ,divine hand is again perceived4 ,then ,i turned away westward rather than in the opposite direction1 chiefly from observing that some native ,portuguese1 though influenced by the hope of a reward from their government to cross the continent1 had been obliged to return from the east without accomplishing their object4 ,had ,i gone at first in the eastern direction1 which the course of the great ,leeambye seemed to invite1 ,i should have come among the belligerents near ,tete when the war was raging at its height1 instead of1 as it happened1 when all was over4 ,and again1 when enabled to reach ,loanda1 the resolution to do my duty by going back to ,linyanti probably saved me from the fate of my papers in the ,forerunner4 ,and then1 last of all1 this new country is partially opened to the sympathies of ,christendom1 and ,i find that ,sechele himself has1 though unbidden by man1 been teaching his own people4 ,in fact1 he has been doing all that ,i was prevented from doing1 and ,i have been employed in exploring--a work ,i had no previous intention of performing4 ,i think that ,i see the operation of the unseen hand in all this1 and ,i humbly hope that it will still guide me to do good in my day and generation in ,africa4 ,viewing the success awarded to opening up the new country as a development of ,divine ,providence in relation to the ,african family1 the mind naturally turns to the probable influence it may have on negro slavery1 and more especially on the practice of it by a large portion of our own race4 ,we now demand increased supplies of cotton and sugar1 and then reprobate the means our ,american brethren adopt to supply our wants4 ,we claim a right to speak about this evil1 and also to act in reference to its removal1 the more especially because we are of one blood4 ,it is on the ,anglo-,american race that the hopes of the world for liberty and progress rest4 ,now it is very grievous to find one portion of this race practicing the gigantic evil1 and the other aiding1 by increased demands for the produce of slave labor1 in perpetuating the enormous wrong4 ,the ,mauritius1 a mere speck on the ocean1 yields sugar1 by means of guano1 improved machinery1 and free labor1 equal in amount to one fourth part of the entire consumption of ,great ,britain4 ,on that island land is excessively dear and far from rich3 no crop can be raised except by means of guano1 and labor has to be brought all the way from ,india4 ,but in ,africa the land is cheap1 the soil good1 and free labor is to be found on the spot4 ,our chief hopes rest with the natives themselves2 and if the point to which ,i have given prominence1 of healthy inland commercial stations1 be realized1 where all the produce raised may be collected1 there is little doubt but that slavery among our kinsmen across the ,atlantic will1 in the course of some years1 cease to assume the form of a necessity to even the slaveholders themselves4 ,natives alone can collect produce from the more distant hamlets1 and bring it to the stations contemplated4 ,this is the system pursued so successfully in ,angola4 ,if ,england had possessed that strip of land1 by civilly declining to enrich her frontier colonists by ,caffre wars1 the inborn energy of ,english colonists would have developed its resources1 and the exports would not have been #ajj1jjj ,pounds as now1 but one million at least4 ,the establishment of the necessary agency must be a work of time1 and greater difficulty will be experienced on the eastern than on the western side of the continent1 because in the one region we have a people who know none but slave-traders1 while in the other we have tribes who have felt the influence of the coast missionaries and of the great ,niger expedition2 one invaluable benefit it conferred was the dissemination of the knowledge of ,english love of commerce and ,english hatred of slavery1 and it therefore was no failure4 ,but on the east there is a river which may become a good pathway to a central population who are friendly to the ,english2 and if we can conciliate the less amicable people on the river1 and introduce commerce1 an effectual blow will be struck at the slave-trade in that quarter4 ,by linking the ,africans there to ourselves in the manner proposed1 it is hoped that their elevation will eventually be the result4 ,in this hope and proposed effort ,i am joined by my brother ,charles1 who has come from ,america1 after seventeen years' separation1 for the purpose4 ,we expect success through the influence of that ,spirit who already aided the efforts to open the country1 and who has since turned the public mind toward it4 ,a failure may be experienced by sudden rash speculation overstocking the markets there1 and raising the prices against ourselves4 ,but ,i propose to spend some more years of labor1 and shall be thankful if ,i see the system fairly begun in an open pathway which will eventually benefit both ,africa and ,england4 ,the village of ,kilimane stands on a great mud bank1 and is surrounded by extensive swamps and rice-grounds4 ,the banks of the river are lined with mangrove bushes1 the roots of which1 and the slimy banks on which they grow1 are alternately exposed to the tide and sun4 ,the houses are well built of brick and lime1 the latter from ,mozambique4 ,if one digs down two or three feet in any part of the site of the village1 he comes to water2 hence the walls built on this mud bank gradually subside2 pieces are sometimes sawn off the doors below1 because the walls in which they are fixed have descended into the ground1 so as to leave the floors higher than the bottom of the doors4 ,it is almost needless to say that ,kilimane is very unhealthy4 ,a man of plethoric temperament is sure to get fever1 and concerning a stout person one may hear the remark1 ,ah6 he will not live long2 he is sure to die4 ,a ,hamburgh vessel was lost near the bar before we came down4 ,the men were much more regular in their habits than ,english sailors1 so ,i had an opportunity of observing the fever acting as a slow poison4 ,they felt out of sorts only1 but gradually became pale1 bloodless1 and emaciated1 then weaker and weaker1 till at last they sank more like oxen bitten by tsetse than any disease ,i ever saw4 ,the captain1 a strong1 robust young man1 remained in perfect health for about three months1 but was at last knocked down suddenly and made as helpless as a child by this terrible disease4 ,he had imbibed a foolish prejudice against quinine1 our sheet-anchor in the complaint4 ,this is rather a professional subject1 but ,i introduce it here in order to protest against the prejudice as almost entirely unfounded4 ,quinine is invaluable in fever1 and never produces any unpleasant effects in any stage of the disease1 ,,if ,,exhibited ,,in ,,combination ,,with ,,an ,,aperient4 ,the captain was saved by it1 without his knowledge1 and ,i was thankful that the mode of treatment1 so efficacious among natives1 promised so fair among ,europeans4 ,after waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot1 in which1 however1 by the kind attentions of ,colonel ,nunes and his nephew1 ,i partially recovered from my tertian1 ,h4 ,m4 brig ,frolic arrived off ,kilimane4 ,as the village is twelve miles from the bar1 and the weather was rough1 she was at anchor ten days before we knew of her presence about seven miles from the entrance to the port4 ,she brought abundant supplies for all my need1 and #aej ,pounds to pay my passage home1 from my kind friend ,mr4 ,thompson1 the ,society's agent at the ,cape4 ,the admiral at the ,cape kindly sent an offer of a passage to the ,mauritius1 which ,i thankfully accepted4 ,sekwebu and one attendant alone remained with me now4 ,he was very intelligent1 and had been of the greatest service to me2 indeed1 but for his good sense1 tact1 and command of the language of the tribes through which we passed1 ,i believe we should scarcely have succeeded in reaching the coast4 ,i naturally felt grateful to him2 and as his chief wished ,,all my companions to go to ,england with me1 and would probably be disappointed if none went1 ,i thought it would be beneficial for him to see the effects of civilization1 and report them to his countrymen2 ,i wished also to make some return for his very important services4 ,others had petitioned to come1 but ,i explained the danger of a change of climate and food1 and with difficulty restrained them4 ,the only one who now remained begged so hard to come on board ship that ,i greatly regretted that the expense prevented my acceding to his wish to visit ,england4 ,i said to him1 ,you will die if you go to such a cold country as mine4 ,that is nothing1 he reiterated2 let me die at your feet4 ,when we parted from our friends at ,kilimane1 the sea on the bar was frightful even to the seamen4 ,this was the first time ,sekwebu had seen the sea4 ,captain ,peyton had sent two boats in case of accident4 ,the waves were so high that1 when the cutter was in one trough1 and we in the pinnace in another1 her mast was hid4 ,we then mounted to the crest of the wave1 rushed down the slope1 and struck the water again with a blow which felt as if she had struck the bottom4 ,boats must be singularly well constructed to be able to stand these shocks4 ,three breakers swept over us4 ,the men lift up their oars1 and a wave comes sweeping over all1 giving the impression that the boat is going down1 but she only goes beneath the top of the wave1 comes out on the other side1 and swings down the slope1 and a man bales out the water with a bucket4 ,poor ,sekwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke over1 and said1 ,is this the way you go8 ,is this the way you go8 ,i smiled and said1 ,yes2 don't you see it is8 and tried to encourage him4 ,he was well acquainted with canoes1 but never had seen aught like this4 ,when we reached the ship--a fine1 large brig of sixteen guns and a crew of one hundred and thirty--she was rolling so that we could see a part of her bottom4 ,it was quite impossible for landsmen to catch the ropes and climb up1 so a chair was sent down1 and we were hoisted in as ladies usually are1 and received so hearty an ,english welcome from ,captain ,peyton and all on board that ,i felt myself at once at home in every thing except my own mother tongue4 ,i seemed to know the language perfectly1 but the words ,i wanted would not come at my call4 ,when ,i left ,england ,i had no intention of returning1 and directed my attention earnestly to the languages of ,africa1 paying none to ,english composition4 ,with the exception of a short interval in ,angola1 ,i had been three and a half years without speaking ,english1 and this1 with thirteen years of previous partial disuse of my native tongue1 made me feel sadly at a loss on board the ,frolic4 ,we left ,kilimane on the #abth of ,july1 and reached the ,mauritius on the #abth of ,august1 #ahef4 ,sekwebu was picking up ,english1 and becoming a favorite with both men and officers4 ,he seemed a little bewildered1 every thing on board a man-of-war being so new and strange2 but he remarked to me several times1 ,your countrymen are very agreeable1 and1 ,what a strange country this is--all water together6 ,he also said that he now understood why ,i used the sextant4 ,when we reached the ,mauritius a steamer came out to tow us into the harbor4 ,the constant strain on his untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax1 for during the night he became insane4 ,i thought at first that he was intoxicated4 ,he had descended into a boat1 and1 when ,i attempted to go down and bring him into the ship1 he ran to the stern and said1 ,no6 no6 it is enough that ,i die alone4 ,you must not perish2 if you come1 ,i shall throw myself into the water4 ,perceiving that his mind was affected1 ,i said1 ,now1 ,sekwebu1 we are going to ,ma ,robert4 ,this struck a chord in his bosom1 and he said1 ,oh yes2 where is she1 and where is ,robert8 and he seemed to recover4 ,the officers proposed to secure him by putting him in irons2 but1 being a gentleman in his own country1 ,i objected1 knowing that the insane often retain an impression of ill treatment1 and ,i could not bear to have it said in ,sekeletu's country that ,i had chained one of his principal men as they had seen slaves treated4 ,i tried to get him on shore by day1 but he refused4 ,in the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred2 he tried to spear one of the crew1 then leaped overboard1 and1 though he could swim well1 pulled himself down hand under hand by the chain cable4 ,we never found the body of poor ,sekwebu4 ,at the ,mauritius ,i was most hospitably received by ,major ,general ,c4 ,m4 ,hay1 and he generously constrained me to remain with him till1 by the influence of the good climate and quiet ,english comfort1 ,i got rid of an enlarged spleen from ,african fever4 ,in ,november ,i came up the ,red ,sea2 escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable management of ,captain ,powell1 of the ,peninsular and ,oriental ,steam ,company's ship ,candia1 and on the #abth of ,december was once more in dear old ,england4 ,the ,company most liberally refunded my passage-money4 ,i have not mentioned half the favors bestowed1 but ,i may just add that no one has cause for more abundant gratitude to his fellow-men and to his ,maker than ,i have2 and may ,god grant that the effect on my mind be such that ,i may be more humbly devoted to the service of the ,author of all our mercies6 ,appendix4--,latitudes and ,longitudes of ,positions4 ,the ,remarks column has been replaced1 where needed1 with remarks listed below the corresponding line1 and inclosed in square brackets4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- ,positions4 ,latitude4 ,longitude4 ,date4 ,no4 of ,sets ,south4 ,east4 of ,lunar ,distances4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- d ' d ' ,w4 ,e4 ,manakalongwe ,pass4 #bb #ee #eb 4 4 4 #ahec1 ,jan4 #bf ,letloche4 #bb #ch #j 4 4 4 ,jan4 #bh ,kanne4 #bb #bf #ef 4 4 4 ,jan4 #ca ,lotlokane1 where the first #ba #bg #dg 4 4 4 ,feb4 #aa1 #ab ,palmyra-trees occur4 ,hence path to ,nchokotsa ,n4,n4,w41 thence to ,kobe ,n4,w4 ,kobe 7#ast group74 #bj #ec #ad #bd #eb #j ,feb4 #ah1 #ai ,kama ,kama1 from whence #ai #eb #ca 4 4 4 ,mar4 #b traveled in magnetic meridian 7#ast group74 ,fever ,ponds 7#ast group74 #ai #ae #ec #bd #ee #j ,mar4 #aa1 #bh ,ten miles ,s4 of hill ,n'gwa #ah #ch #j #bd #bf #j ,apr4 #ad 7#ast group74 ,n'gwa ,hill 7a central #ah #bg #ej #bd #ac #cf ,apr4 #ae1 #af occultation of ,b4,a4,c4 #bcfd ,gemini74 ,n'gwa ,valley1 half mile #ah #bg #bj #bd #ac #cf ,apr4 #ag ,n4 of hill4 ,e4 of and in parallel of #ah #bj #j 4 4 4 ,apr4 #ag ,wagon ,station of #ahea4 ,wagon ,station on the ,chobe1 #ah #bj #j #bc #ej #j 4 4 4 three miles ,s4 of ,sekeletu's ,town4 ,sekeletu's ,town 7#ast group74 #ah #ag #bj #bc #ej #i ,june #ac ,july #ad1 #ag ,boiling-point of water #bje-a_/c ,deg42 ,alt4 #ceba feet4 ,island ,mahonta4 ,the ,chobe #ag #eh #j 7#bd #f7 ,apr4 #bf runs here in #ag;d #eh'4 ,banks of ,sanshureh ,river1 #ah #d #bg #bd #f #bj ,apr4 #bf a branch of the ,chobe 7#ast group74 ,at a well-known ,baobab-tree #i' south of ,mahonta island4 ,town of ,sesheke #ag #ca #ch #be #ac #j #ahee1 ,aug4 #ca 4 #a on the ,zambesi4 ,sekhosi's ,town on #ag #bi #ac 4 4 4 #ahec1 ,july #bf1 #bg the ,zambesi 7about #be miles ,w4 of ,sesheke74 ,cataract of ,nambwe4 #ag #ag #af 4 4 4 ,july #ca ,confluence of #ag #g #ca 4 4 4 #ahee1 ,aug4 #bb 4 #a ,njoko and ,zambesi4 ,cataract of ,bombwe4 #af #ef #cc 4 4 4 #ahec1 ,aug4 #a ,kale ,cataract4 #af #di #eb 4 4 4 #ahee1 ,aug4 #ba 4 #a ,falls of ,gonye4 #af #ch #ej #bc #ee #j #ahec1 ,aug4 #b #ahee1 ,aug4 #ai #a #b ,nameta4 #af #ab #i 4 4 4 ,aug4 #ag 4 #b ,seori sa ,mei1 #af #j #cb 4 4 4 #ahec1 ,aug4 #e or ,island of ,water4 ,litofe ,island1 town of4 #ae #ee #j 4 4 4 ,aug4 #f ,loyela1 ,s4 end of this #ae #bg #cj 4 4 4 ,aug4 #i island1 town of ,mamochisane4 ,naliele or ,nariele1 #ae #bd #ag #bc #e #ed ,aug4 #aj1 #ac chief town of ,barotse 7occultation of ,jupiter7 7#ast group74 ,linangelo1 old town #ae #ah #dj 4 4 4 ,aug4 #ai of ,santuru 7site nearly swallowed up74 ,katongo 7near ,slave #ae #af #cc 4 4 4 ,aug4 #cj ,merchants' ,stockade74 ,point of ,junction of ,nariele #ae #ae #dc 4 4 4 ,aug4 #bi ,branch with the ,main ,stream4 ,quando ,village4 #ae #f #h 4 4 4 ,aug4 #bh ,town of ,libonta4 #ad #ei #j 4 4 4 ,aug4 #ba ,island of ,tongane4 #ad #ch #f 4 4 4 ,aug4 #bc ,cowrie ,island4 #ad #bj #e 4 4 4 ,aug4 #bd ,junction of the ,loeti #ad #ah #eg 4 4 4 ,aug4 with the ,main ,stream 7,leeambye1 ,zambesi74 ,boiling-point of water #bjc ,deg4 #dgda feet4 ,confluence of the ,leeba #ad #aj #eb #bc #ce #dj ,aug4 #bd1 #be or ,lonta with the ,leeambye 7#ast group74 ,kabompo1 near the ,leeba4 #ab #cg #ce #bb #dg #j #ahed1 ,jan4 #a #ahee1 ,july #c 4 #c ,village about #b' ,n4,w4 #ab #f #f #bb #eg #j #ahed1 ,feb4 #a of the ,leeba after leaving ,kabompo town3 the hill ,peeri1 or ,piri1 bearing ,s4,s4,e41 distant about #f'4 ,village of ,soana ,molopo1 #aa #di #bb #bb #db #j ,feb4 #g #c' from ,lokalueje ,river4 ,village of ,quendende1 #aa #da #ag 4 4 4 ,feb4 #aa about #b' ,s4,e4 of the ford of the ,lotembwa1 and about #i' from the town of ,katema4 ,banks of the ,lovoa4 #aa #dj #ed 4 4 4 #ahee1 ,june #bj #b 4 ,lofuje ,river flows into #ab #eb #ce #bb #di #j ,july #g 4 #c the ,leeba2 ,nyamoana's village4 ,confluence of the ,makondo #ac #bc #ab 4 4 4 ,july #ac and ,leeba ,rivers4 ,katema's ,town1 #e' ,s4 of ,lake #aa #ce #di #bb #bg #j #ahed1 ,feb4 #ag 4 #b ,dilolo1 the source of the ,lotembwa1 one of the principal feeders of the ,leeba4 ,lake ,dilolo 7station about #aa #cb #a 4 4 4 #ahee1 ,june #ah 4 #b half a mile ,s4 of the lake74 ,june #ac 4 4 ,boiling-point of water #bjc ,deg4 #dgda feet4 ,village near the ford of #aa #ae #ee 4 4 4 #ahed1 ,feb4 #bh the ,river ,kasai1 ,kasye1 or ,loke4 ,the ford is in latitude #aa;d #ag'4 ,bango's ,village1 about #aj' #aj #bb #ec #bj #eh #j #ahee1 ,may #bh #c 4 ,w4 of the ,loembwe4 ,banks of the ,stream ,chihune4 #aj #eg #cj 7#bj #ec799a99 #ahed1 ,mar4 #h ,the longitude doubtful4 ,ionga ,panza's village4 #aj #be #j #bj #ae #j 99#b99 ,mar4 #bj ,ford of the ,river ,quango4 #i #ej #j 7#ah #bg #j7 ,apr4 #e ,cassange1 about #dj or #ej #i #cg #cj #ag #di #j ,apr4 #ac1 #ag #c #b miles ,w4 of the ,river ,quango1 and situated in a deep valley4 ,tala ,mungongo1 #b' ,e4 #i #db #cg 7#ag #bg7 ,jan4 #aa1 #ad of following station4 ,longitude not observed3 ,water boils-- ,top of #bjf ,deg41 height #caea feet4 ,bottom of descent #bjh ,deg4 #bjig feet4 ,bottom of east ascent #bje ,deg4 #cfhj feet4 ,top #bjb ,deg4 #ebgh feet4 ,banks of the ,quinze1 #i #db #cg #ag #be #j #ahee1 ,jan4 #aj 4 #a near the source1 #b' ,w4 of the sudden descent which forms the valley of ,cassange4 ,sanza1 on the ,river ,quize #i #cg #df #af #ei #j ,jan4 #g 4 #d 7about #ae yards wide74 ,pungo ,andongo1 #i #db #ad #ae #cj #j #ahed1 ,dec4 #aa 4 #d on the ,river ,coanza4 ,on the top of the rocks water boils at #bjd ,deg4 #dbaj feet4 ,on the ,river ,coanza1 #i #dg #b 4 4 4 ,dec4 #bb #b' ,w4 of ,pungo ,andongo4 ,candumba1 #ae miles ,e4 of #i #db #df 4 4 4 #ahee1 ,jan4 #b ,pungo ,andongo1 #cjj yards ,n4 of the ,coanza4 ,confluence of the ,lombe #i #da #bf 4 4 4 ,jan4 #c and ,coanza1 #h' or #aj' ,e4 of ,candumba1 and at house of ,m4 ,pires1 taken at about half a mile ,n4 of confluence4 ,here the ,coanza takes its southern bend4 ,golungo ,alto1 about midway #i #h #cj #ad #ea #j #ahed1,oct4 #bg between ,ambaca and ,loanda4 ,may #ad ,aguaes doces in ,cassange1 #i #ae #b 4 4 4 ,oct4 #f1 #g 4 #b #aj' ,w4 of ,golungo ,alto4 ,at the confluence of the ,luinha and ,luce4 ,confluence of the ,luinha #i #bf #bc 4 4 4 and ,lucalla4 ,confluence of the ,lucalla #i #cg #df 4 4 4 ,oct4 #aa1 #ab and ,coanza1 ,massangano town and fort4 ,a prominent hill in ,cazengo1 called ,zungo1 is about #f' ,s4,s4,w4 of ,aguaes doces1 and it bears ,n4,e4 by ,e4 from the house of the commandant at ,massangano4 ,ambaca1 residence of the #i #af #ce #ae #bc #j ,dec4 #f commandant of the district4 ,kalai1 #ag #ea #ed #be #da #j #ahee1 ,nov4 #ah #b #c near the ,mosioatunya ,falls4 ,lekone ,rivulet4 #ag #de #f #be #ee #j ,nov4 #bj #d #a ,water boils at #bjd-a_/b ,deg4 #cide feet4 ,between ,lekone and ,kalomo1 ,marimba #bjc-a_/d ,deg4 #dfjh feet4 ,kalomo ,river4 7#ag #c #j7 4 4 4 ,nov4 #cj 4 #a ,the lat4 and long4 doubtful4 ,top of ridge1 water boils at #bjb ,deg4 #ebgh feet4 ,rivulet of ,dela1 #af #ef #j #bf #de #j ,dec4 #b 4 #c called ,mozuma4 ,kise ,kise ,hills4 #af #bg #bj 4 4 4 ,dec4 #c ,nakachinto ,rivulet4 #af #aa #bd 4 4 4 ,dec4 #aa ,on eastern descent from ridge1 water boils at #bjd ,deg4 #dbaj feet4 ,elephant's ,grave4 7#af #c #j7 7#bh #aj7 ,dec4 #ad #a 4 ,the latitude not observed4 ,kenia ,hills1 ,rivulet ,losito 7#ae #ef #j7 7#bh #a7 ,dec4 #af #c 4 on their western flank4 ,the latitude not observed4 #f' ,e4 of ,bolengwe ,gorge1 #ae #dh #ai #bh #bb #j ,dec4 #ah #c #c and on the banks of the ,kafue4 #g' or #h' ,n4,e4 or ,e4,n4,e4 7#ae #di #j7 7#bh #cd7 99#c99 ,dec4 #bi 4 #d of the confluence of the ,kafue and ,zambesi1 at a rivulet called ,kambare4 ,the lat4 not observed2 water boils #bje-a_/b ,deg4 #cdae feet4 ,top of the hills ,semalembue1 water boils #bjd-a_/b ,deg4 #djgh feet4 ,bottom of ditto1 #bje-c_/d ,deg4 #cbhh feet4 ,confluence of ,kafue #ae #ec #j 4 4 4 and ,zambesi4 ,banks of ,zambesi1 #ae #ej #di 4 4 4 ,dec4 #cj #h' or #aj' below confluence4 ,water boils at #bji ,deg4 #aega feet4 ,village of ,ma-,mburuma1 #ae #cf #eg #cj #bb #j #ahef1 ,jan4 #ab #a #a about #aj miles from ,zumbo4 ,zumbo station1 ruins of a #ae #cg #bb #cj #cb #j ,jan4 #ac #b #c church on the right bank of the ,loangwa1 about #cjj yards from confluence with ,zambesi4 ,water boils at #bji-a_/d ,deg4 #addj feet4 ,chilonda's ,village1 quarter #ae #ch #cd #cj #eb #j ,jan4 #bj #c 4 of a mile ,n4 of ,zambesi1 near the ,kabanka ,hill4 ,opposite ,hill ,pinkwe4 #ae #ci #aa 7#cb #e7 99#d99 ,feb4 #g 4 #a ,long4 doubtful2 the moon's alt4 only #d ,deg4 ,moshua ,rivulet4 #ae #de #cc #cb #bb #j 99#e99 ,feb4 #i #a #b ,tangwe ,rivulet1 or #af #ac #ch #cb #bi #j ,feb4 #bj ,sand ,river1 #a_/d mile broad4 ,tete or ,nyungwe station1 #af #i #c #cc #bh #j ,mar4 #b1 #ag #d #h house of commandant4 ,hot ,spring ,makorozi1 #ae #ei #ce 4 4 4 ,mar4 #ac about #aj m4 up the river4 ,below ,tete1 island of #af #cd #df #cb #ea #j ,apr4 #bc #a 4 ,mozambique1 on the ,zambesi4 ,island of ,nkuesa4 #ag #a #f 4 4 4 ,apr4 #be ,senna1 #cjj yards ,s4,w4 #ag #bg #a #cd #eg #j 99#f99 ,april #bg #b #f of the ,mud ,fort on the bank ,may #h1 #i of the river4 ,islet of ,shupanga4 #ag #ea #ch 4 4 4 ,may #ab ,small islet in the middle of #ag #ei #ba 4 4 4 ,may #ac the ,zambesi1 and six or eight miles below ,shupanga4 ,mazaro or ,mutu1 #ah #c #cg #ce #eg #j ,may #ad #b #b where the ,kilimane ,river branches off the ,zambesi4 ,kilimane ,village1 #ag #ec #h #cf #dj #j 99#g99 ,june #ac1 #be1 #bg #a #f at the house of ,senor ,galdino ,jose ,nunes1 colonel of militia4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- ,positions4 ,latitude4 ,longitude4 ,date4 ,no4 of ,sets ,south4 ,east4 of ,lunar ,distances4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- 99#a99 ,probably #bj;d #be'4--;,i4 ,a4 99#b99 ,probably #bj;d #aj'4--;,i4 ,a4 99#c99 ,probably #bh;d #ef'4--;,i4 ,a4 99#d99 ,probably #ca;d #df' #cj4--;,i4 ,a4 99#e99 ,probably #ca;d #ef'4--;,i4 ,a4 99#f99 ,probably #ce;d #aj' #ae4--;,i4 ,a4 99#g99 ,probably #cf;d #ef' #h4--;,i4 ,a4 ,appendix4--,book ,review in ,harper's ,new ,monthly ,magazine1 ,february1 #aheh4 ,this review is provided to allow the reader to view ,livingstone's achievement as it was seen by a contemporary4--,a4 ,l41 #aiig4 ,livingstone's ,travels in ,south ,africa499 99 ',missionary ,travels and ,researches in ,south ,africa'4 ,by ,david ,livingstone1 ,,ll4,d41 ,d4,c4,l4 #a vol4 #hvo4 ,with ,maps and numerous ,illustrations4 ,harper and ,brothers4 ',travels and ,discoveries in ,north and ,central ,africa'4 ,by ,henry ,barth1 ,ph4,d41 ,d4,c4,l4 #c vols4 #hvo4 ,with ,map and numerous ,illustrations4 ,harper and ,brothers4 ,these two works1 each embodying the results of years of travel and research1 entirely revolutionize all our theories as to the geographical and physical character of ,central ,africa4 ,instead of lofty mountains and sandy deserts1 we have a wide basin1 or rather series of basins1 with lakes and great rivers1 and a soil fertile even when compared with the abounding exuberance of our own ,western valleys and prairies4 ,barth1 traveling southward from the ,mediterranean1 explored this region till within eight degrees of the equator4 ,livingstone1 traveling northward from the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 approached the equator from the south as nearly as ,barth did from the north4 ,he then traversed the whole breadth of the continent diagonally from the west to the east4 ,his special researches cover the entire space between the eighth and fifteenth parallels of south latitude4 ,between the regions explored by ,barth and ,livingstone lies an unexplored tract extending eight degrees on each side of the equator1 and occupying the whole breadth of the continent from east to west4 ,lieutenant ,burton1 famous for his expedition to ,mecca and ,medina1 set out from ,zanzibar a few months since1 with the design of traversing this very region4 ,if he succeeds in his purpose his explorations will fill up the void between those of ,barth and ,livingstone4 ,dr4 ,livingstone1 with whose travels we are at present specially concerned1 is no ordinary man4 ,the son of a ,presbyterian deacon and small trader in ,glasgow2 set to work in a cotton factory at ten years old2 buying a ,latin grammar with his first earnings2 working from six in the morning till eight at night1 then attending evening-school till ten1 and pursuing his studies till midnight2 at sixteen a fair classical scholar1 with no inconsiderable reading in books of science and travels1 gained1 sentence by sentence1 with the book open before him on his spinning-jenny2 botanizing and geologizing on holidays and at spare hours2 poring over books of astrology till he was startled by inward suggestions to sell his soul to the ,evil ,one as the price of the mysterious knowledge of the stars2 soundly flogged by the good deacon his father by way of imparting to him a liking for ,boston's ,fourfold ,state and ,wilberforce's ,practical ,christianity2 then convinced by the writings of the worthy ,thomas ,dick that there was no hostility between ,science and ,religion1 embracing with heart and mind the doctrines of evangelical ,christianity1 and resolving to devote his life to their extension among the heathen--such are the leading features of the early life of ,david ,livingstone4 ,he would equip himself for the warfare and afterward fight with the powers of darkness at his own cost4 ,so at the age of nineteen--a slim1 loose-jointed lad--he commenced the study of medicine and ,greek1 and afterward of theology1 in the ,university of ,glasgow1 attending lectures in the winter1 paying his expenses by working as a cotton-spinner during the summer1 without receiving a farthing of aid from any one4 ,his purpose was to go to ,china as a medical missionary1 and he would have accomplished his object solely by his own efforts had not some friends advised him to join the ,london ,missionary ,society4 ,he offered himself1 with a half hope that his application would be rejected1 for it was not quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way to become dependent in a measure upon others4 ,by the time when his medical and theological studies were completed1 the ,opium ,war had rendered it inexpedient to go to ,china1 and his destination was fixed for ,southern ,africa4 ,he reached his field of labor in #ahdj4 ,having tarried for three months at the head station at ,kuruman1 and taken to wife a daughter of the well-known missionary ,mr4 ,moffat1 he pushed still farther into the country1 and attached himself to the band of ,sechele1 chief of the ,bakwains1 or ,alligators1 a ,bechuana tribe4 ,here1 cutting himself for six months wholly off from all ,european society1 he gained an insight into the language1 laws1 modes of life1 and habits of the ,bechuanas1 which proved of incalculable advantage in all his subsequent intercourse with them4 ,sechele gave a ready ear to the missionary's instructions4 ,did your forefathers know of a future judgment8 he asked4 ,they knew of it1 replied the missionary1 who proceeded to describe the scenes of the last great day4 ,you startle me3 these words make all my bones to shake2 ,i have no more strength in me4 ,but my forefathers were living at the same time yours were2 and how is it that they did not send them word about these terrible things8 ,they all passed away into darkness without knowing whither they were going4 ,mr4 ,moffat had translated the ,bible into the ,bechuana language1 which he had reduced to writing1 and ,sechele set himself to learn to read1 with so much assiduity that he began to grow corpulent from lack of his accustomed exercise4 ,his great favorite was ,isaiah4 ,he was a fine man1 that ,isaiah2 he knew how to speak1 he was wont to say1 using the very words applied by the ,glasgow ,professor to the ,apostle ,paul4 ,having become convinced of the truth of ,christianity1 he wished his people also to become ,christians4 ,i will call them together1 he said1 and with our rhinoceros-skin whips we will soon make them all believe together4 ,livingstone1 mindful1 perhaps1 of the ill success of his worthy father in the matter of ,wilberforce on ,practical ,christianity1 did not favor the proposed line of argument4 ,he was1 in fact1 in no great haste to urge ,sechele to make a full profession of faith by receiving the ordinance of baptism2 for the chief had1 in accordance with the customs of his people1 taken a number of wives1 of whom he must1 in this case1 put away all except one4 ,the head-wife was a greasy old jade1 who was in the habit of attending church without her gown1 and when her husband sent her home to make her toilet1 she would pout out her thick lips in unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions1 while some of the other wives were the best scholars in the school4 ,after a while ,sechele took the matter into his own hands1 sent his supernumerary wives back to their friends--not empty-handed--and was baptized4 ,mr4 ,livingstone's station was in the region since rendered famous by the hunting exploits of ,gordon ,cumming4 ,he vouches for the truth of the wonderful stories told by that redoubtable ,nimrod1 who visited him during each of his excursions4 ,he himself1 indeed1 had an adventure with a lion quite equal to any thing narrated by ,cumming or ,andersson1 the result of which was one dead lion1 two ,bechuanas fearfully wounded1 his own arm marked with eleven distinct teeth-marks1 the bone crunched to splinters1 and the formation of a false joint1 which marred his shooting ever after4 ,mr4 ,livingstone has a republican contempt for the ,king of ,beasts4 ,he is nothing better than an overgrown hulking dog1 not a match1 in fair fight1 for a buffalo4 ,if a traveler encounter him by daylight1 he turns tail and sneaks out of sight like a scared greyhound4 ,all the talk about his majestic roar is sheer twaddle4 ,it takes a keen ear to distinguish the voice of the lion from that of the silly ostrich4 ,when he is gorged he falls asleep1 and a couple of natives approach him without fear4 ,one discharges an arrow1 the point of which has been anointed with a subtle poison1 made of the dried entrails of a species of caterpillar1 while the other flings his skin cloak over his head4 ,the beast bolts away incontinently1 but soon dies1 howling and biting the ground in agony4 ,in the dark1 or at all hours when breeding1 the lion is an ugly enough customer2 but if a man will stay at home by night1 and does not go out of his way to attack him1 he runs less risk in ,africa of being devoured by a lion than he does in our cities of being run over by an omnibus--so says ,mr4 ,livingstone4 ,when the lion grows old he leads a miserable life4 ,unable to master the larger game1 he prowls about the villages in the hope of picking up a stray goat4 ,a woman of child venturing out at night does not then come amiss4 ,when the natives hear of one prowling about the villages1 they say1 ,his teeth are worn2 he will soon kill men1 and thereupon turn out to kill him4 ,this is the only foundation for the common belief that when the lion has once tasted human flesh he will eat nothing else4 ,a man-eater is always an old lion1 who takes to cannibalism to avoid starvation4 ,when he lives far from human habitations1 and so can not get goats or children1 an old lion is often reduced to such straits as to be obliged to live upon mice1 and such small deer4 ,mr4 ,livingstone's strictly missionary life among the ,bakwains lasted eight or nine years4 ,the family arose early1 and1 after prayers and breakfast1 went to the school-room1 where men1 women1 and children were assembled4 ,school was over at eleven1 when the husband set about his work as gardener1 smith1 or carpenter1 while his wife busied herself with domestic matters--baking bread1 a hollow in a deserted ant-hill serving for an oven2 churning butter in an earthen jar2 running candles2 making soap from ashes containing so little alkaline matter that the ley had to be kept boiling for a month or six weeks before it was strong enough for use4 ,the wife was maid-of-all-work in doors1 while the husband was ,jack-at-all-trades outside4 ,three several times the tribe removed their place of residence1 and he was so many times compelled to build for himself a house1 every stick and brick of which was put in place by his own hands4 ,the heat of the day past1 and dinner over1 the wife betook herself to the infant and sewing schools1 while the husband walked down to the village to talk with the natives4 ,three nights in the week1 after the cows had been milked1 public meetings were held for instruction in religious and secular matters4 ,all these multifarious duties were diversified by attendance upon the sick1 and in various ways aiding the poor and wretched4 ,being in so many ways helpful to them1 and having1 besides1 shown from the first that he could knock them up at hard work or traveling1 we can not wonder that ,livingstone was popular among the ,bakwains1 though conversions seem to have been of the rarest4 ,indeed1 we are not sure but ,sechele's was the only case4 ,a great drought set in the very first year of his residence among them1 which increased year by year4 ,the river ran dry2 the canals which he had induced them to dig for the purpose of irrigating their gardens were useless2 the fish died in such numbers that the congregated hyenas of the country were unable to devour the putrid masses4 ,the rain-makers tried their spells in vain4 ,the clouds sometimes gathered promisingly overhead1 but only to roll away without discharging a drop upon the scorched plains4 ,the people began to suspect some connection between the new religion and the drought4 ,we like you1 they said1 but we wish you would give up this everlasting preaching and praying4 ,you see that we never get any rain1 while the tribes who never pray have an abundance4 ,livingstone could not deny the fact1 and he was sometimes disposed to attribute it to the malevolence of the ,prince of the ,power of the ,air1 eager to frustrate the good work4 ,the people behaved wonderfully well1 though the scarcity amounted almost to famine4 ,the women sold their ornaments to buy corn from the more fortunate tribes around2 the children scoured the country for edible roots2 the men betook themselves to hunting4 ,they constructed great traps1 called 'hopos'1 consisting of two lines of hedges1 a mile long1 far apart at the extremities1 but converging like the sides of the letter ,v1 with a deep pit at the narrow end4 ,then forming a circuit for miles around1 they drove the game--buffaloes1 zebras1 gnus1 antelopes1 and the like--into the mouth of the hopo1 and along its narrowing lane1 until they plunged pell-mell in one confused1 writhing1 struggling mass into the pit1 where they were speared at leisure4 ,the precarious mode of life occasioned by the long drought interfered sadly with the labors of the mission4 ,still worse was the conduct of ,boers who had pushed their way into the ,bechuana country4 ,their theory was very simple3 ,we are the people of ,god1 and the heathen are given to us for an inheritance4 ,of this inheritance they proceeded to make the most4 ,they compelled the natives to work for them without pay1 in consideration of the privilege of living in their country4 ,they made regular forays1 carrying off the women and children as slaves4 ,they were cowardly as well as brutal1 compelling friendly tribes to accompany them on their excursions1 putting them in front as a shield1 and coolly firing over their heads1 till the enemy fled in despair1 leaving their women1 children1 and cattle as a prey4 ,so long as fire-arms could be kept from the natives the ,boers were sure of having it all their own way4 ,but traders came in the train of the missionaries1 and sold guns and powder to the ,bechuanas4 ,sechele's tribe procured no less than five muskets4 ,the ,boers were alarmed1 and determined to drive missionaries and traders from the country4 ,in course of time ,mr4 ,livingstone became convinced that ,bibles and preaching were not all that was necessary4 ,civilization must accompany ,christianization2 and commerce was essential to civilization2 for commerce1 more speedily than any thing else1 would break down the isolation of the tribes1 by making them mutually dependent upon and serviceable to each other4 ,it was well known that northward1 beyond the desert1 lay a great lake1 in the midst of a country rich in ivory and other articles of commerce4 ,in former years1 when rains had been more abundant1 the natives had frequently crossed this desert2 and somewhere near the lake dwelt a famous chief1 named ,sebituane1 who had once lived on friendly terms in the neighborhood of ,sechele1 who was anxious to renew the old acquaintance4 ,mr4 ,livingstone determined to open intercourse with this region1 in spite of the threats and opposition of the ,boers4 ,so the missionary became a traveler and explorer4 ,while laying his plans and gathering information1 the opportune arrival of ,messrs4 ,oswell and ,murray1 two wealthy ,englishmen who had become enamored with ,african hunting1 enabled him to undertake the proposed expedition1 ,mr4 ,oswell agreeing to pay the guides1 who were furnished by ,sechele4 ,this expedition1 which resulted in the discovery of ,lake ,ngami1 set out from the missionary station at ,kolobeng on the #ast of ,june1 #ahdi4 ,the way lay across the great ,kalahari desert1 seven hundred miles in breadth4 ,this is a singular region4 ,though it has no running streams1 and few and scanty wells1 it abounds in animal and vegetable life4 ,men1 animals1 and plants accommodate themselves singularly to the scarcity of water4 ,grass is abundant1 growing in tufts2 bulbous plants abound1 among which are the 'leroshua'1 which sends up a slender stalk not larger than a crow quill1 with a tuber1 a foot or more below the surface1 as large as a child's head1 consisting of a mass of cellular tissue filled with a cool and refreshing fluid2 and the 'mokuri'1 which deposits under ground1 within a circle of a yard from its stem1 a mass of tubers of the size of a man's head4 ,during years when the rains are unusually abundant1 the ,kalahari is covered with the 'kengwe'1 a species of water-melon4 ,animals and men rejoice in the rich supply2 antelopes1 lions1 hyenas1 jackals1 mice1 and men devour it with equal avidity4 ,the people of the desert conceal their wells with jealous care4 ,they fill them with sand1 and place their dwellings at a distance1 that their proximity may not betray the precious secret4 ,the women repair to the wells with a score or so of ostrich shells in a bag slung over their shoulders4 ,digging down an arm's-length1 they insert a hollow reed1 with a bunch of grass tied to the end1 then ram the sand firmly around the tube4 ,the water slowly filters into the bunch of grass1 and is sucked up through the reed1 and squirted mouthful by mouthful into the shells4 ,when all are filled1 the women gather up their load and trudge homeward4 ,elands1 springbucks1 koodoos1 and ostriches somehow seem to get along very well without any moisture1 except that contained in the grass which they eat4 ,they appear to live for months without drinking2 but whenever rhinoceroses1 buffaloes1 or gnus are seen1 it is held to be certain proof that water exists within a few miles4 ,the passage of the ,kalahari was effected1 not without considerable difficulty1 in two months1 the expedition reaching ,lake ,ngami on the #ast of ,august4 ,as they approached it1 they came upon a considerable river4 ,whence does this come8 asked ,livingstone4 ,from a country full of rivers1 was the reply2 so many that no man can tell their number1 and full of large trees4 ,this was the first actual confirmation of the report of the ,bakwains that the country beyond was not the large sandy plateau of geographers4 ,the prospect of a highway capable of being traversed by boats to an unexplored fertile region so filled the mind of ,livingstone that1 when he came to the lake1 this discovery seemed of comparatively little importance4 ,to us1 indeed1 whose ideas of a lake are formed from ,superior and ,huron1 the ,ngami seems but an insignificant affair4 ,its circumference may be seventy or a hundred miles1 and its mean depth is but a few feet4 ,it lies two thousand feet above the level of the sea1 and as much below the southern border of the ,kalahari1 which slopes gradually toward the interior4 ,their desire to visit ,sebituane1 whose residence was considerably farther in the interior1 was frustrated by the jealousy of ,lechulatebe1 a chief near the lake1 and the expedition returned to the station at ,kolobeng4 ,the attempt was renewed the following year4 ,mrs4 ,livingstone1 their three children1 and ,sechele accompanied him4 ,the lake was reached4 ,lechulatebe1 propitiated by the present of a valuable gun1 agreed to furnish guides to ,sebituane's country2 but the children and servants fell ill1 and the attempt was for the time abandoned4 ,a third expedition was successful1 although the whole party came near perishing for want of water1 and their cattle1 which had been bitten by the ',tsetse'1 died4 ,this insect--the ',glossina moritans' of the naturalists--deserves a special paragraph4 ,it is a brown insect about as large as our common house-fly1 with three or four yellow bars across its hinder part4 ,a lively1 buzzing1 harmless-looking fellow is the tsetse4 ,its bite produces a slight itching similar to that caused by the mosquito1 and in the case of men and some species of animals no further ill effects follow4 ,but woe to the horse1 the ox1 and the dog1 when once bitten by the tsetse4 ,no immediate harm appears2 the animal is not startled as by the gad-fly2 but in a few days the eyes and the nose begin to run2 the jaws and navel swell2 the animal grazes for a while as usual1 but grows emaciated and weak1 and dies1 it may be1 weeks or months after4 ,when dissected1 the cellular tissue seems injected with air1 the fat is green and oily1 the muscles are flabby1 the heart is so soft that the finger may be pushed through it4 ,the antelope and buffalo1 the zebra and goat1 are not affected by its bite2 while to the ox1 the horse1 and the dog it is certain death4 ,the mule and donkey are not troubled by it1 nor are sucking calves1 while dogs1 though fed upon milk1 perish4 ,such different effects produced upon animals whose nature is similar1 constitute one of the most curious phenomena in natural history4 ,sebituane1 who had heard of the approach of his visitors1 came more than a hundred miles to meet them4 ,he was a tall1 wiry1 coffee-and-milk colored man1 of five-and-forty4 ,his original home was a thousand miles to the south1 in the ,bakwain country1 whence he had been driven by the ,griquas a quarter of a century before4 ,he fled northward1 fighting his way1 sometimes reduced to the utmost straits1 but still keeping his people together4 ,at length he crossed the desert1 and conquered the country around ,lake ,ngami2 then having heard of white men living on the west coast1 he passed southwestward into the desert1 hoping to be able to open intercourse with them4 ,there suffering from the thirst1 he came to a small well2 the water was not sufficient for his men and his cattle2 one or the other must perish2 he ordered the men to drink1 for if they survived they could fight for more cattle4 ,in the morning his cattle were all gone1 and he returned to the north4 ,here a long course of warfare awaited him1 but in the end he triumphed over his enemies1 and established himself for a time on the great river ,zambesi4 ,haunted with a longing for intercourse with the whites1 he proposed to descend the river to the eastern coast4 ,he was dissuaded from this purpose by the warnings of a native prophet4 ,the gods say1 ,go not thither6 he cried2 then turning to the west1 ,i see a city and a nation of black men--men of the water2 their cattle are red2 thine own tribe are perishing1 and will all be consumed2 thou wilt govern black men1 and when thy warriors have captured the red cattle1 let not their owners be killed2 they are thy future tribe2 let them be spared to cause thee to build4 ,so ,sebituane went westward1 conquered the blacks of an immense region1 spared the lives of the men1 and made them his subjects1 ruling them gently4 ,his original people are called the ,makololo2 the subject tribes are styled ,makalaka4 ,sebituane1 though the greatest warrior in the south1 always leading his men to battle in person1 was still anxious for peace4 ,he had heard of cannon1 and had somehow acquired the idea that if he could only procure one he might live in quiet4 ,he received his visitors with much favor4 ,your cattle have all been bitten by the tsetse1 he said1 and will die2 but never mind1 ,i will give you as many as you want4 ,he offered to conduct them through his country that they might choose a site for a missionary station4 ,but at this moment he fell ill of an inflammation of the lungs1 from which he soon died4 ,he was1 writes ,mr4 ,livingstone1 the best specimen of a native chief ,i ever met2 and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the world of which he had just heard when he was called away1 and to realize somewhat of the feeling of those who pray for the dead4 ,the deep1 dark question of what is to become of such as he must be left where we find it1 believing that assuredly the ,judge of all the earth will do right4 ,although he had sons1 ,sebituane left the chieftainship to his daughter ,mamochisane1 who confirmed her father's permission that the missionaries might visit her country4 ,they proceeded a hundred and thirty miles farther1 and were rewarded by the discovery of the great river ,zambesi1 the very existence of which1 in ,central ,africa1 had never been suspected4 ,it was the dry season1 and the river was at its lowest2 but it was from three to six hundred yards broad1 flowing with a deep current toward the east4 ,a grander idea than the mere founding of a missionary station now developed itself in the mind of ,mr4 ,livingstone4 ,european goods had just begun to be introduced into this region from the ,portuguese settlements on the coast2 at present slaves were the only commodity received in payment for them4 ,livingstone thought if a great highway could be opened1 ivory1 and the other products of the country1 might be bartered for these goods1 and the traffic in slaves would come to an end4 ,he therefore resolved to take his family to ,cape ,town1 and thence send them to ,england1 while he returned alone to the interior1 with the purpose of making his way either to the east or the west coast4 ,he reached the ,cape in ,april1 #aheb1 being the first time during eleven years that he had visited the scenes of civilization1 and placed his family on board a ship bound for ,england1 promising to rejoin them in two years4 ,in ,june he set out from ,cape ,town upon that long journey which was to occupy five years4 ,when he approached the missionary stations in the interior1 he learned that the long-threatened attack by the ,boers had taken place4 ,a letter from ,sechele to ,mr4 ,moffat told the story4 ,thus it ran3 ,friend of my heart's love and of all the confidence of my heart1 ,i am ,sechele4 ,i am undone by the ,boers1 who attacked me1 though ,i had no guilt with them4 ,they demanded that ,i should be in their kingdom1 and ,i refused4 ,they demanded that ,i should prevent the ,english and ,griquas from passing4 ,i replied1 ,these are my friends1 and ,i can not prevent them4 ,they came on ,saturday1 and ,i besought them not to fight on ,sunday1 and they assented4 ,they began on ,monday morning at twilight1 and fired with all their might1 and burned the town with fire1 and scattered us4 ,they killed sixty of my people1 and captured women1 and children1 and men4 ,they took all the cattle and all the goods of the ,bakwains2 and the house of ,livingstone they plundered1 taking away all his goods4 ,of the ,boers we killed twenty-eight4 ,two hundred children1 who had been gathered into schools1 were carried away as slaves4 ,mr4 ,livingstone's library was wantonly destroyed1 not carried away2 his stock of medicines was smashed1 and his furniture and clothing sold at auction to defray the expenses of the foray4 ,mr4 ,pretorius1 the leader of the marauding party1 died not long after1 and an obituary notice of him was published1 ending with the words1 ,blessed are the dead who die in the ,lord4 ,leaving his desolate home1 ,livingstone proceeded on his journey4 ,on the way he met ,sechele1 who was going1 he said1 to see the ,queen of ,england4 ,livingstone tried to dissuade him4 ,will not the ,queen listen to me8 asked the chief4 ,i believe she would listen1 but the difficulty is to get to her4 ,well1 ,i shall reach her4 ,and so they parted4 ,sechele actually made his way to the ,cape1 a distance of a thousand miles1 but could get no farther1 and returned to his own country4 ,the remnants of the tribes who had formerly lived among the ,boers gathered around him1 and he is now more powerful than ever4 ,it is slow traveling in ,africa4 ,livingstone was almost a year in accomplishing the #aejj miles between ,cape ,town and the country of the ,makololo4 ,he found that ,mamochisane1 the daughter of ,sebituane1 had voluntarily resigned the chieftainship to her younger brother1 ,sekeletu4 ,she wished to be married1 she said1 and have a family like other women4 ,the young chief ,sekeletu was very friendly1 but showed no disposition to become a convert4 ,he refused to learn to read the ,bible1 for fear it might change his heart1 and make him content with only one wife1 like ,sechele4 ,for his part he wanted at least five4 ,some months were passed in this country1 which is described as fertile and well-cultivated--producing millet1 maize1 yams1 sweet potatoes1 cassava1 beans1 pumpkins1 water-melons1 and the like4 ,the sugar-cane grows plentifully1 but the people had never learned the process of making sugar4 ,they have great numbers of cattle1 and game of various species abounds4 ,on one occasion a troop of eighty-one buffaloes defiled slowly before their evening fire1 while herds of splendid elands stood1 without fear1 at two hundred yards' distance4 ,the country is rather unhealthy1 from the mass of decayed vegetation exposed to the torrid sun4 ,after due consideration1 ,livingstone resolved to make his way to ,loanda1 a ,portuguese settlement on the western coast4 ,sekeletu1 anxious to open a trade with the coast1 appointed twenty-seven men to accompany the traveler2 and on the #aath of ,november1 #ahec1 he set out on his journey4 ,three or four small boxes contained all the baggage of the party4 ,the only provisions were a few pounds of biscuits1 coffee1 tea1 and sugar2 their main reliance being upon the game which they expected to kill1 and1 this failing1 upon the proceeds of about ten dollars' worth of beads4 ,they also took with them a few elephants' tusks1 which ,sekeletu sent by way of a trading venture4 ,the river up which they paddled abounds in hippopotami4 ,these are in general harmless1 though now and then a solitary old bull who has been expelled from the herd vents his spleen by pitching into every canoe that passes4 ,once their canoe was attacked by a female whose calf had been speared1 and nearly overturned4 ,the female carries her young upon her back1 its little round head first appearing above the surface when she comes up to breathe4 ,by the order of the chief the party had been furnished with eight oxen for riding1 and seven intended for slaughter4 ,some of the troop paddled the canoes1 while others drove the cattle along the bank4 ,african etiquette requires that a company of travelers1 when they come in sight of a village1 shall seat themselves under a tree1 and send forward a messenger to announce their arrival and state their object4 ,the chief then gives them a ceremonious reception1 with abundance of speech-making and drumming4 ,it is no easy matter to get away from these villages1 for the chiefs esteem it an honor to have strangers with them4 ,these delays1 and the frequent heavy rains1 greatly retarded the progress of the travelers4 ,they had traveled four months1 and accomplished half of their journey before encountering any show of hostility from the tribes through which they passed4 ,a chief1 named ,njambi1 then demanded tribute for passing through his country2 when this was refused he said that one of ,livingstone's men had spit on the leg of one of his people1 and this crime must be paid for by a fine of a man1 an ox1 or a gun4 ,this reasonable demand was likewise refused1 and the natives seemed about to commence hostilities2 but changed their minds upon witnessing the determined attitude of the strangers4 ,livingstone at last yielded to the entreaties of his men and gave them an ox1 upon the promise that food should be sent in exchange4 ,the niggardly chief sent them only a small bag of meal1 and two or three pounds of the meat of their own ox4 ,from this time they were subject to frequent attempts at extortion4 ,the last of these was made on the banks of the ,river ,quango1 the boundary of the ,portuguese possessions4 ,a ,bashinje chief1 whose portrait is given by ,mr4 ,livingstone1 made the usual demand of a man1 a gun1 or an ox1 otherwise they must return the way they came4 ,while negotiations were in progress the opportune arrival of a ,portuguese sergeant freed the travelers from their troubles4 ,the river was crossed1 and once on ,portuguese territory their difficulties were over4 ,at ,cassange1 the frontier settlement1 they sold ,sekeletu's ivory4 ,the ,makololo1 who had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun1 were delighted at the prices they obtained4 ,for one tusk they got two muskets1 three kegs of powder1 large bunches of beads1 and calico and baize enough to clothe all the party4 ,on the #cast of ,may1 after more than six months' travel1 ,livingstone and his companions reached the ,portuguese sea-port of ,loanda4 ,the ,makololo were lost in wonder when they first caught sight of the sea4 ,we marched along1 they said1 believing that what the ancients had told us was true1 that the world has no end2 but all at once the world said to us1 ,i am finished1 there is no more of me4 ,still greater was their wonder when they beheld the large stone houses of the town4 ,these are not huts1 they said1 but mountains with caves in them4 ,livingstone had in vain tried to make them comprehend a house of two stories4 ,they knew of no dwellings except their own conical huts1 made of poles stuck into the ground1 and could not conceive how one hut could be built on the top of another1 or how people could live in the upper story1 with the pointed roof of the lower one sticking up in the middle of the floor4 ,the vessels in the harbor were1 they said1 not canoes1 but towns1 into which one must climb by a rope4 ,at ,loanda ,livingstone was attacked by a fever1 which reduced him to a skeleton1 and for a while rendered him unable to attend to his companions4 ,but they managed very well alone4 ,some went to the forest1 cut firewood1 and brought it to town for sale2 others unloaded a coal-vessel in the harbor1 at the magnificent wages of a sixpence a day4 ,the proceeds of their labor were shrewdly invested in cloth and beads which they would take home with them in confirmation of the astounding stories they would have to tell2 for1 said they1 in coming to the white man's country1 we have accomplished what no other people in the world could have done2 we are the true ancients1 who can tell wonderful things4 ,the two years1 at the close of which ,livingstone had promised to rejoin his family1 had almost expired1 and he was offered a passage home from ,loanda4 ,but the great object of his expedition was only partially attained4 ,though he had reached the west coast in safety1 he had found that the forests1 swamps1 and rivers must render a wagon-road from the interior impracticable4 ,he feared also that his native attendants would not be able to make their way alone back to their own country1 through the unfriendly tribes4 ,so he resolved1 feeble as he was1 to return to ,sekeletu's dominions1 and thence proceed to the eastern coast4 ,in ,september he started on his return journey1 bearing considerable presents for ,sekeletu from the ,portuguese1 who were naturally anxious to open a trade with the rich ivory region of the interior4 ,the ,board of ,public ,works sent a colonel's uniform and a horse1 which unfortunately died on the way4 ,the merchants contributed specimens of all their articles of trade1 and a couple of donkeys1 which would have a special value on account of their immunity from the bite of the tsetse4 ,the men were made happy by the acquisition of a suit of ,european clothes and a gun apiece1 in addition to their own purchases4 ,in the ,bashinje country he again encountered hostile demonstrations4 ,one chief1 who came riding into the camp upon the shoulders of an attendant1 was especially annoying in his demands for tribute4 ,another1 who had quarreled with one of ,livingstone's attendants1 waylaid and fired upon the party4 ,livingstone1 who was ill of a fever1 staggered up to the chief1 revolver in hand4 ,the sight of the six mouths of that convenient implement gaping at his breast wrought an instant revolution in his martial ideas2 he fell into a fit of trembling1 protesting that he had just come to have a quiet talk1 and wanted only peace4 ,these ,bashinje have more of the low negro character and physiognomy than any tribe encountered by ,livingstone4 ,their color is a dirty black2 they have low foreheads and flat noses1 artificially enlarged by sticks run through the septum1 and file their teeth down to a point4 ,a little further to the south the complexion of the natives is much lighter1 and their features are strikingly like those depicted upon the ,egyptian monuments1 the resemblance being still further increased by some of their modes of wearing the hair4 ,livingstone indeed affirms that the ,egyptian paintings and sculptures present the best type of the general physiognomy of the central tribes4 ,the return journey was still slower than the advance had been2 and it was not till late in the summer of #ahee that they reached the villages of the ,makololo1 having been absent more than eighteen months4 ,they were received as men risen from the dead1 for the diviners had declared that they had perished long ago4 ,the returned adventurers were the lions of the day4 ,they strutted around in their gay ,european suits1 with their guns over their shoulders1 to the abounding admiration of the women and children1 calling themselves ,livingstone's braves1 who had gone over the whole world1 turning back only when there was no more land4 ,to be sure they returned about as poor as they went1 for their gun and their one suit of red and white cotton were all that they had saved1 every thing else having been expended during their long journey4 ,but never mind1 they said2 we have not gone in vain1 you have opened a path for us4 ,there was one serious drawback from their happiness4 ,some of their wives1 like those of the companions of ,ulysses of old1 wearied by their long absence1 had married other husbands4 ,they took this misfortune much to heart4 ,wives1 said one of the bereaved husbands1 are as plenty as grass--,i can get another2 but1 he added bitterly1 if ,i had that fellow ,i would slit his ears for him4 ,livingstone did the best he could for them4 ,he induced the chiefs to compel the men who had taken the only wife of any one to give her up to her former husband4 ,those--and they were the majority--who had still a number left1 he consoled by telling them that they had quite as many as was good for them--more than he himself had4 ,so1 undeterred by this single untoward result of their experiment1 the adventurers one and all set about gathering ivory for another adventure to the west4 ,livingstone had satisfied himself that the great ,river ,leeambye1 up which he had paddled so many miles on his way to the west1 was identical with the ,zambesi1 which he had discovered four years previously4 ,the two names are indeed the same1 both meaning simply ,the ,river1 in different dialects spoken on its banks4 ,this great river is an object of wonder to the natives4 ,they have a song which runs1 ,the ,leeambye6 ,nobody knows ,whence it comes1 and whither it goes4 ,livingstone had pursued it far up toward its source1 and knew whence it came2 and now he resolved to follow it down to the sea1 trusting that it would furnish a water communication into the very heart of the continent4 ,it was now ,october--the close of the hot season4 ,the thermometer stood at #ajj ,deg4 in the shade2 in the sun it sometimes rose to #acj ,deg4 ,during the day the people kept close in their huts1 guzzling a kind of beer called 'boyola'1 and seeming to enjoy the copious perspiration which it induces4 ,as evening set in the dance began1 which was kept up in the moonlight till long after midnight4 ,sekeletu1 proud of his new uniform1 and pleased with the prospect of trade which had been opened1 entertained ,livingstone hospitably1 and promised to fit him out for his eastern journey as soon as the rains had commenced1 and somewhat cooled the burning soil4 ,he set out early in ,november1 the chief with a large body of retainers accompanying him as far as the ,falls of ,mosioatunye1 the most remarkable piece of natural scenery in all ,africa1 which no ,european had ever seen or heard of4 ,the ,zambesi1 here a thousand yards broad1 seems all at once to lose itself in the earth4 ,it tumbles into a fissure in the hard basaltic rock1 running at a right-angle with the course of the stream1 and prolonged for thirty miles through the hills4 ,this fissure1 hardly eighty feet broad1 with sides perfectly perpendicular1 is fully a hundred feet in depth down to the surface of the water1 which shows like a white thread at its bottom4 ,the noise made by the descent of such a mass of water into this seething abyss is heard for miles1 and five distinct columns of vapor rise like pillars of smoke to an enormous height4 ,hence the ,makololo name for the cataract1 ',mosi oa tunye'--,smoke sounds there6--for which ,livingstone1 with questionable taste1 proposes to substitute the name of ,victoria ,falls--a change which we trust the world will not sanction4 ,from these falls the country gradually ascends toward the east1 the river finding its way by this deep fissure through the hills4 ,every thing shows that this whole region1 for hundreds of miles1 was once the bed of an immense fresh-water lake4 ,by some convulsion of nature1 occurring at a period geologically recent1 this fissure was formed1 and through it the lake was drained1 with the exception of its deepest part1 which constitutes the present ,lake ,ngami4 ,similar indications exist of the former existence of other immense bodies of water1 which have in like manner been drained by fissures through the surrounding elevations1 leaving shallow lakes at the lowest points4 ,such are1 undoubtedly1 ,tsad at the north1 ,ngami at the south1 ,dilolo at the west1 and ,taganyika and ,nyanja1 of which we have only vague reports1 at the east4 ,this great lake region of former days seems to have extended #bejj miles from north to south1 with an average breadth1 from east to west1 of #fjj or #gjj miles4 ,the true theory of the ,african continent is1 that it consists of a well-watered trough1 surrounded on all sides by an elevated rim1 composed in part of mountain ranges1 and in part of high sandy deserts4 ,livingstone1 who had wrought out this theory from his own personal observations1 was almost disappointed when1 on returning to ,england1 he found that the same theory had been announced on purely geological grounds by ,sir ,roderick ,murchison1 the same philosopher who had averred that gold must exist in ,australia1 long before the first diggings had been discovered there4 ,sekeletu had commissioned ,livingstone1 when he reached his own country1 to purchase for him a sugar-mill1 a good rifle1 different kinds of clothing1 brass wire1 beads1 and1 in a word1 any other beautiful thing he might see1 furnishing him with a considerable quantity of ivory to pay for them4 ,their way lay through the country of the ,batoka1 a fierce tribe who had a few years before attempted to eat up ,sebituane1 with ill success1 for he dispersed them and took away their cattle4 ,their country1 once populous1 is now almost desolate4 ,at one of their ruined villages ,livingstone saw five-and-forty human skulls bleaching upon stakes stuck in the ground4 ,in the old times the chiefs used to vie with each other as to whose village should be ornamented with the greatest number of these ghastly trophies2 and a skull was the most acceptable present from any one who wished to curry favor with a chief4 ,the ,batoka have an odd custom of knocking out the front teeth from the upper jaw4 ,the lower ones1 relieved from the attrition and pressure of the upper1 grow long and protruding1 forcing the lower lip out in a hideous manner4 ,they say that they wish their mouths to be like those of oxen1 and not like those of zebras4 ,no young ,batoka female can lay any claim to being a belle until she has thus acquired an ox-mouth4 ,look at the great teeth6 is the disparaging criticism made upon those who neglect to remove their incisors4 ,the women wear a little clothing1 but the men disdain even the paradisiacal fig-leaf1 and go about in a state of absolute nudity4 ,livingstone told them that he should come back some day with his family1 when none of them must come near without at least putting on a bunch of grass4 ,they thought it a capital joke4 ,their mode of salutation is to fling themselves flat on their backs1 and roll from side to side1 slapping the outside of their naked thighs4 ,the country abounds with game4 ,buffaloes and zebras by the hundred grazed on the open spaces4 ,at one time their procession was interrupted by three buffaloes who came dashing through their ranks4 ,livingstone's ox set off at a furious gallop4 ,looking back1 he saw one of his men flung up into the air by a toss from one of the beasts1 who had carried him on his horns for twenty yards before giving the final pitch4 ,the fellow came down flat on his face1 but the skin was not pierced1 and no bone was broken4 ,his comrades gave him a brisk shampooing1 and in a week he was as well as ever4 ,the border country passed1 the natives grew more friendly1 and gladly supplied all the wants of the travelers4 ,about the middle of ,december1 when their journey was half over1 they came upon the first traces of ,europeans--a deserted town1 a ruined church1 and a broken bell inscribed with a cross and the letters ,i4 ,h4 ,s41 but bearing no date4 ,a few days after they met a man wearing a hat and jacket4 ,he had come from the ,portuguese settlement of ,tete1 far down the river4 ,from him they learned that a war was going on below1 between the ,portuguese and the natives4 ,a chief1 named ,mpende1 showed signs of hostility4 ,livingstone's men1 who had become worn and ragged by their long journey1 rejoiced at the prospect of a fight4 ,now1 said they1 we shall get corn and clothes in plenty4 ,you have seen us with elephants1 but you don't know what we can do with men4 ,after a while two old men made their appearance1 to find out who the strangers were4 ,i am a ,lekoa 7,englishman71 said ,livingstone4 ,we don't know that tribe1 they replied2 we suppose you are a ,mozunga 7,portuguese74 ,upon ,livingstone's showing them his long hair and the white skin of his bosom they exclaimed1 ,we never saw so white a skin as that4 ,you must be one of that tribe that loves the black men4 ,livingstone eagerly assured him that such was the case4 ,sekwebu1 the leader of his men1 put in a word3 ,ah1 if you only knew him as well as we do1 who have lived with him1 you would know how highly he values your friendship2 and as he is a stranger he trusts in you to direct him4 ,the chief1 convinced that he was an ,englishman1 received the party hospitably and forwarded them on their way4 ,the frequent appearance of ,english goods showed that they were approaching the coast1 and not long afterward ,livingstone met a couple of native traders1 from whom1 for two small tusks1 he bought a quantity of ,american cotton marked ,lawrence ,mills1 ,lowell1 which he distributed among his men4 ,for another month they traveled slowly on through a fertile country1 abounding in animal life1 bagging an elephant or a buffalo when short of meat4 ,lions are numerous1 but the natives1 believing that the souls of their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these animals1 into which they also have the power1 when living1 of transforming themselves at will1 never kill them4 ,when they meet a lion they salute him by clapping their hands--a courtesy which his ,highness frequently returns by making a meal of them4 ,in this region the women are decidedly in the ascendant4 ,the bridegroom is obliged to come to the village of the bride to live4 ,here he must perform certain services for his mother-in-law1 such as keeping her always supplied with fire-wood4 ,above all things1 he must always1 when in her presence1 sit with his legs bent under him1 it being considered a mark of disrespect to present his feet toward her4 ,if he wishes to leave the village1 he must not take his children with him2 they belong to his wife1 or1 rather1 to her family4 ,he can1 however1 by the payment of a certain number of cattle1 buy up his wife and children4 ,when a man is desired to perform any service he always asks his wife's consent2 if she refuses1 no amount of bribery or coaxing will induce him to disobey her4 ,on the evening of ,march #b1 ,livingstone1 tired and hungry1 came within eight miles of the ,portuguese settlement of ,tete4 ,he sent forward the letters of recommendation which he had received from the ,portuguese on the other side of the continent4 ,before daylight the following morning he was aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers1 who brought the materials for a civilized breakfast--the first of which he had partaken since he left ,loanda1 eighteen months before4 ,it was1 he says1 the most refreshing breakfast of which ,i ever partook4 ,tete stands on the ,zambesi1 three hundred miles from its mouth4 ,the commandant received ,livingstone kindly1 supplied his men with provisions for immediate use1 gave them land upon which to raise future supplies1 and granted them permission to hunt elephants in the neighborhood on their own account4 ,before long they had established a brisk trade in fire-wood1 as their countrymen had done at ,loanda4 ,they certainly manifested none of the laziness which has been said to be characteristic of the ,african races4 ,thirty elephant tusks remained of those forwarded by ,sekeletu4 ,ten of these were sold for cotton cloth for the men4 ,the others were deposited with the authorities1 with directions that in case ,livingstone should never return they should be sold1 and the proceeds given to the men4 ,he told them that death alone should prevent him from coming back4 ,nay1 father1 said the men1 you will not die2 you will return1 and take us back to ,sekeletu4 ,he remained at ,tete a month1 waiting for the close of the sickly season in the low delta at the mouths of the river1 and then descended to the ,portuguese town of ,kilimane4 ,here he remained six weeks1 when an ,english vessel arrived with supplies and money for him4 ,two of his attendants only had come down the river4 ,they begged hard to be allowed to accompany him to ,england4 ,in vain ,livingstone told them that they would die if they went to so cold a country4 ,that is nothing1 said one2 let me die at your feet4 ,he at last decided to take with him ,sekwebu1 the leader of the party1 to whose good sense1 bravery1 and tact he owed much of his success4 ,the sea-waves rose high1 as the boat conveyed them to the ship4 ,sekwebu1 who had never seen a larger body of water than the shallow ,lake ,ngami1 was terrified4 ,is this the way you go8 he inquired4 ,yes2 don't you see it is8 replied ,livingstone1 encouragingly4 ,when ,livingstone reached his countrymen on the ship he could scarcely speak his native language2 the words would not come at his call4 ,he had spoken it but little for thirteen years2 and for three and a half1 except for a short time at ,loanda1 not at all4 ,sekwebu became a great favorite on shipboard1 but he was bewildered by the crowd of new ideas that rushed upon his mind4 ,what a strange country this is1 he said1 all water6 ,when they reached ,mauritius1 he became insane1 and tried to jump overboard4 ,livingstone's wife had1 during her visit to their country1 become a great favorite with the ,makololo1 who called her ',ma ,robert'--,robert's ,mother--in honor of her young son4 ,come1 ,sekwebu1 said ,livingstone1 we are going to ,ma ,robert4 ,this struck a chord in his bosom4 ,oh yes1 said he2 where is she8 ,where is ,robert8 ,and for the moment he seemed to recover4 ,but in the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred4 ,he attempted to spear one of the crew1 and then leaped overboard1 and1 though he could swim well1 pulled himself down1 hand over hand1 by the cable4 ,his body was never recovered4 ,from ,mauritius ,livingstone sailed for ,england1 which he reached on the #abth of ,december1 #ahef--;four and a half years after he had parted from his family at ,cape ,town4 ,he was received with unwonted honors4 ,the ,president of the ,royal ,geographical ,society1 at a special meeting held to welcome him1 formally invited him to give to the world a narrative of his travels4 ,some knavish booksellers paid him the less acceptable compliment of putting forth spurious accounts of his adventures1 one at least of which has been republished in this country4 ,livingstone1 so long accustomed to a life of action1 found the preparation of his book a harder task than he had imagined4 ,i think1 he says1 that ,i would rather cross the ,african continent again than undertake to write another book4 ,we trust that he will yet do both4 ,he would indeed have set out on another ,african journey nearly a year ago to conduct his faithful ,makololo attendants back to their own country1 had not the ,king of ,portugal relieved him from all anxiety on their account1 by sending out directions that they should be supported at ,tete until his return4 ,our abstract does1 at best1 but scanty justice to the most interesting1 as well as most valuable1 of modern works of travel4 ,it has revolutionized our ideas of ,african character as well as of ,african geography4 ,it shows that ,central ,africa is peopled by tribes barbarous1 indeed1 but far from manifesting those savage and degrading traits which we are wont to associate with the negro race4 ,in all his long pilgrimage ,livingstone saw scarcely a trace of the brutal rites and bloody superstitions of ,dahomey and ,ashanti4 ,the natives every where long for intercourse with the whites1 and eagerly seek the products of civilized labor4 ,in regions where no white men had ever been seen the cottons of ,lowell and ,manchester1 passed from tribe to tribe1 are even now the standard currency4 ,civilized nations have an equal interest in opening intercourse with these countries1 for they are capable of supplying those great tropical staples which the industrious temperate zones must have1 but can not produce4 ,livingstone found cotton growing wild all along his route from ,loanda to ,kilimane2 the sugar-cane flourishes spontaneously in the valley of ,the ,river2 coffee abounds on the west coast2 and indigo is a weed in the delta of the ,zambesi4 ,barth also finds these products abundant on the banks of the ,benuwe and ,shari1 and around ,lake ,tsad4 ,the prevalent idea of the inherent laziness of the ,africans must be abandoned1 for1 scattered through the narratives of both these intrepid explorers are abundant testimonies of the industrious disposition of the natives4 ,livingstone1 as befits his profession1 regards his discoveries from a religious stand-point4 ,the end of the geographical feat1 he says1 is the beginning of the missionary enterprise4 ,but he is a philosopher as well as a preacher1 recognizing as true missionaries the man of science who searches after hidden truths1 the soldier who fights against tyranny1 the sailor who puts down the slave-trade1 and the merchant who teaches practically the mutual dependence of the nations of the earth4 ,his idea of missionary labor looks to this world as well as the next4 ,had the ,bakwains possessed rifles as well as ,bibles--had they raised cotton as well as attended prayer-meetings--it would have been better for them4 ,he is clearly of the opinion that decent clothing is of more immediate use to the heathen than doctrinal sermons4 ,we ought1 he says1 to encourage the ,africans to cultivate for our markets1 as the most effectual means1 next to the ,gospel1 of their elevation4 ,his practical turn of mind suffers him to present no fancy pictures of barbarous nations longing for the ,gospel4 ,his ,makololo friends1 indeed1 listened respectfully when he discoursed of the ,saviour1 but were all earnestness when he spoke of cotton cloths and muskets4 ,sekeletu favored the missionary1 not as the man who could give him ,bibles and tracts1 but as the one by whose help he hoped to sell his ivory for a rifle1 a sugar-mill1 and brass wire4 ,livingstone's missionary scheme is accommodated to the actual state of things4 ,it rests quite as much upon traders as preachers4 ,he would open a communication by the ,zambesi to the heart of the continent4 ,upon the healthy1 elevated region overlooking the low1 fertile basin he would establish trading posts1 supplied with ,european wares4 ,we can not wonder that the directors of the ,missionary ,society looked coldly upon this scheme1 and wrote to him that they were restricted in their power of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the ,gospel2 nor can we regret that ,livingstone1 feeling his old love of independence revive1 withdrew from his connection with the ,society1 for the purpose of carrying out his own plans4 ,with all respect for the worthy persons who manage missionary societies1 we can not but believe that the man who led so large a party across the ,african continent will accomplish more for the good cause when working out his own plans than he would do by following out their ideas4 ,appendix4--,notes to etext4 ,words3 ,the names ,loanda and ,zambesi are given in most modern texts as ,luanda and ,zambezi4 ,in three cases1 the spelling used in the original was distracting enough that it has been changed3 musquito mosquito1 hachshish hashish1 and nomade nomad4 ,in three other cases1 two variant spellings of a word were used in the text4 ,these were made uniform in accordance with the modern standard4 ,they were3 water-buck waterbuck1 ,mosambique ,mozambique1 and imbody embody4 ,other notes on terms3 ,livingstone often refers to ground-nuts--this is the ,british term for a peanut4 ,mutokwane 7',cannabis sativa'7 must be some variety of marijuana4 ,symbols3 ,as the symbols for the ,british ,pound 7a crossed ,l71 ,degrees 7small circle1 in the upper half of the line of text71 and fractions cannot be represented in ,,ascii1 the following standards have been used3 ,pounds3 written out1 and capitalized1 ,,after the number of pounds1 rather than before it4 ,hence ,l#bj becomes #bj ,pounds4 7where ,l represents the ,pound symbol47 ,degrees1 ,minutes1 ,seconds3 ,degrees1 when used alone1 is either spelled out or abbreviated ,deg4--but is always capitalized where it replaces the symbol4 ,when a location is given with a combination of degrees and minutes1 or degrees1 minutes1 and seconds1 d is used to denote the symbol for degrees1 ' represents minutes1 and represents seconds--these latter two are the common symbols1 or at least as similar as ,,ascii can represent4 ,for an example1 lat4 #i;d #cg' #cj ,s4 would be latitude #i degrees #cg minutes #cj seconds south4 ,all temperatures given are in ,fahrenheit4 ,fractions3 ,where whole numbers and fractions are combined1 the whole number is separated from the fraction with a dash4 ,for example1 in ,chapter #ba3 #af ounces and #b-ai_/bj drams would translate as #af ounces and two-and-nineteen-twentieths drams4 ,incidentally1 ,livingstone uses ,british measurements1 which sometimes differ from the ,american4 ,corrected ,errors3 ,errors in the original text were corrected when the context presented compelling evidence that there was in fact an error4 ,when possible1 proper names were checked against the index for extra surety4 ,chapter #b1 ,all around ,scroti the country is perfectly flat changed to ,all around ,serotli4 ,chapter #b1 one species of plants changed to one species of plant4 ,chapter #c1 a fire specimen of arboreal beauty changed to a fine specimen4 ,chapter #ab1 till a stranger1 happening to come to visit ,santaru changed to to visit ,santuru4 ,chapter #ad1 the orders of ,sekeletu as as to our companions changed to the orders of ,sekeletu as to our companions4 ,chapter #ad1 while ,mashuana plants the poles changed to while ,mashauana4 ,chapter #ae1 ,in other cases ,i have known them turn back changed to ,in other cases ,i have known them to turn back4 ,chapter #bj1 p4 #dch1 to make a canal from ,calumbo to ,loando changed to from ,calumbo to ,loanda4 7,loando1 while correct1 is otherwise only given in the full ,portuguese name47 ,chapter #bf1 we saw the ,batoko changed to we saw the ,batoka4 ,chapter #bh1 with whom ,lekwebu had lived changed to with whom ,sekwebu4 ,accented ,characters in ,words3 ,to maintain an easily searchable text1 accented or special characters have been discarded4 ,the following is a pretty complete list of the words in the text which were originally accented4 ,they appear more or less in the order in which they first appeared with the accent--often the accents were dropped in the original4 ,in each case1 the accent follows the appropriate letter1 the ae and oe combinations are represented as 7ae7 and 7oe71 1 _/1 1 and - represent the accent that looks like them which would appear above the preceding letter4 represents an accent that looks like the bottom half of a circle1 also appearing above the letter1 is an umlaut1 and 1 represents a cedilla4 ,athen7ae7um ,athenaeum ,bakwa_/in ,bakwain ,mabo_/tsa ,mabotsa ,bechua_/na ,bechuana ,seche_/le ,sechele ,chonua_/ne ,chonuane ,bakalaha_/ri ,bakalahari hy7ae7na hyaena tse_/tse tsetse ,banajo_/a ,banajoa man7oe7uvre manoeuvre ,bato-ka ,batoka ,loye_/lo ,loyelo ,mamba_/ri ,mambari mopane_/ mopane ,balonda ,balonda ,sekele_/nke ,sekelenke ,mane_/nko ,manenko ,sheako_/ndo ,sheakondo ,nyamoa_/na ,nyamoana ,kolimbo_/ta ,kolimbota ,samba_/nza ,sambanza ,nuana ,loke_/ ,nyuana ,loke larv7ae7 larvae de_/tour detour cicad7ae7 cicadae ,korwe_/ ,korwe ,moni_/na ,monina ,bonya_/i ,bonyai ,conge_/ ,conge ,bua_/ze ,buaze ,leche_/ ,leche ,bakue_/na ,bakuena ,shokua_/ne ,shokuane ,lepelo_/le ,lepelole ,litubaru_/ba ,litubaruba ,baka_/a ,bakaa ,bamangwa_/to ,bamangwato ,makala_/ka ,makalaka ,letlo_/che ,letloche nami nyami naka nyaka ,matebe_/le ,matebele ,seko_/mi ,sekomi ,baka_/tla ,bakatla ,meba_/lwe ,mebalwe ,batla_/pi ,batlapi ,bata_/u ,batau ,bano_/ga ,banoga ,mokwa_/in ,mokwain ,leko_/a ,lekoa ,mako_/a ,makoa ,mochoase_/le ,mochoasele ,limpo_/po ,limpopo ,bangwake_/tse ,bangwaketse ,sebitua_/ne ,sebituane ,makolo_/lo ,makololo ,kalaha_/ri ,kalahari mimos7ae7 mimosae vertebr7ae7 vertebrae thoae_/la thoaela tsesse_/be tsessebe ,mosilika_/tze ,mosilikatze ,batlo_/kua ,batlokua ,bahu_/keng ,bahukeng ,bamose_/tla ,bamosetla ,manta_/tees ,mantatees ,ka-ke ,kake ,matlame_/tlo ,matlametlo 7,ae7sop ,aesop cucurbitace7ae7 cucurbitaceae ,leroshu_/a ,leroshua ,ke-me ,keme simi7ae7 simiae duiker duiker ,mona_/to ,monato ,boatlana_/ma ,boatlanama ,lope_/pe ,lopepe ,mashue ,mashue ,lobota_/ni ,lobotani leguminos7ae7 leguminosae ,ramoto_/bi ,ramotobi ,mohotlua_/ni ,mohotluani ,kia itume_/la ,kia itumela ,kia time_/la ,kia timela ,ki time_/tse ,ki timetse ,moko_/ko ,mokoko ,mathulua_/ni ,mathuluani ,mokokonya_/ni ,mokokonyani ,lotlaka_/ni ,lotlakani ,ngabisa_/ne ,ngabisane ,bako_/ba ,bakoba ,tzo- ,tzo ,bataua_/na ,batauana ,lechulate_/be ,lechulatebe ,more_/mi ,moremi moheto_/lo mohetolo kuabao-ba kuabaoba tumo-go tumogo ife_/ ife ,bakuru_/tse ,bakurutse ,ntwe_/twe ,ntwetwe ,matlomagan-ya_/na ,matlomagan-yana ,sichua_/na ,sichuana ,maha_/be ,mahabe aroid7oe7a aroidoea ,maja_/ne ,majane ,moro_/a ,moroa ,baro_/tse ,barotse ,nalie_/le ,naliele ,seshe_/ke ,sesheke e- e- e- ee ee ee 7ae7 7ae7 7ae7 ae ae ae ,maha_/le ,mahale ,namaga_/ri ,namagari ,basu_/tu ,basutu ,sikonye_/le ,sikonyele ,maka_/be ,makabe ,damara_/s ,damaras ,bashubi_/a ,bashubia ,c7ae7sar ,caesar ,kafu_/e ,kafue ,tlapa_/ne ,tlapane ,ramosi_/nii_/ ,ramosinii ,baloia_/na ,baloiana ,bihe_/ ,bihe tse_/pe tsepe acme_/ acme lamell7ae7 lamellae ngotuane_/ ngotuane diarrh7oe7a diarrhoea natur7ae7 naturae herni7ae7 herniae ,serina_/ne ,serinane ,lesho_/nya ,leshonya ka_/ma kama ta-ri tari formul7ae7 formulae prote_/ge_/es protegees prim7ae7val primaeval lamin7ae7 laminae lopane_/ lopane ,kandeha_/i ,kandehai ,mamochisa_/ne ,mamochisane ,mpe_/pe ,mpepe ,nokua_/ne ,nokuane ,nsepi_/sa ,nsepisa ,banye_/ti ,banyeti boya_/loa boyaloa o-a_/lo o-alo bu_/za buza minuti7ae7 minutiae ,moti_/be ,motibe hypog7oe7a hypogoea ,bapa_/lleng ,bapalleng ,cho- ,cho ,tso- ,tso ,ho-o-6 ,ho-o6 ,mako-a ,makoa ,seko-a ,sekoa ,makolo_/kue ,makolokue ,bape-ri ,baperi ,bapo- ,bapo ,narie_/le ,nariele giraff7ae7 giraffae lechwe_/s lechwes ,luambe_/ji ,luambeji ,luambe_/si ,luambesi ,ambe_/zi ,ambezi ,ojimbe_/si ,ojimbesi ,zambe_/si ,zambesi ,tianya_/ne ,tianyane ,lebeo_/le ,lebeole ,sisinya_/ne ,sisinyane ,moloiana ,moloiana tau e tona tau e tona ,sau e tona ,sau e tona ,londa ,londa ,ambonda ,ambonda nake nyake ,kua-6 ,kua6 moshe_/ba mosheba ,name_/ta ,nameta ,masi_/ko ,masiko ,pitsa_/ne ,pitsane ,sekobinya_/ne ,sekobinyane ,mashaua_/na ,mashauana mogame_/tsa mogametsa mamo_/sho mamosho moshomo_/sho moshomosho ,babi_/mpe ,babimpe ,mosa_/ntu ,mosantu ,mosioatu_/nya ,mosioatunya ,sima_/h ,simah ,bonda ,bonda ,lonko_/nye ,lonkonye leko_/to lekoto ,shinte_/ ,shinte ,kabo_/mpo ,kabompo ,samoa_/na ,samoana ,baloba_/le ,balobale hakite_/nwe hakitenwe polu_/ma poluma ,matia_/mvo ,matiamvo ,monaka_/dzi ,monakadzi ,inteme_/se ,intemese ,saloi_/sho ,saloisho ,scottice ,scottice ,mokwa_/nkwa ,mokwankwa ,moka_/la a ,ma_/ma ,mokala a ,mama nuana ,kalueje nyuana ,kalueje typhoideum typhoideum loke_/sh lokesh ,soa_/na ,molo_/po ,soana ,molopo ,mozi_/nkwa ,mozinkwa ,livo_/a ,livoa ,chifuma_/dze ,chifumadze ,shakatwa_/la ,shakatwala ,quende_/nde ,quendende ,muata ya_/nvo ,muata yanvo mua_/ta muata ,kange_/nke ,kangenke ,moe_/ne ,moene ,lolo ,lolo ,lishi_/sh ,lishish ,li_/ss ,liss ,kalile_/me ,kalileme ,ishidi_/sh ,ishidish ,molo_/ng ,molong sela_/li selali ,mone_/nga ,monenga ,moso_/go ,mosogo ,monenga-wo-o- ,monenga-wo-o ,kasimaka_/te ,kasimakate ilo_/lo ilolo ,kate_/nde ,katende ,loke_/ ,loke ,kalo_/mba ,kalomba ,tote_/lo ,totelo ,averie_/ ,averie ,loze_/ze ,lozeze ,kasa_/bi ,kasabi ,kalu_/ze ,kaluze ,chihune_/ ,chihune ,chiho_/mbo ,chihombo ,banga_/la ,bangala ,chika_/pa ,chikapa ,loya_/nke ,loyanke ,sakanda_/la ,sakandala ,bashinje_/ ,bashinje ,babinde_/le ,babindele ,kamboe_/la ,kamboela ,caba_/ngo ,cabango ,qua_/ngo ,quango ,sansa_/we_/ ,sansawe cyclop7ae7dia cyclopaedia ,kassanje_/ ,kassanje ,catende_/ ,catende via via ,laurence ,jose_/ ,marquis ,laurence ,jose ,marquis ,el7ae7is ,elaeis ,salvador ,correa de ,sa_/ ,benevides ,salvador ,correa de ,sa ,benevides ,algodao ,americana ,algodao ,americana ,cercopid7ae7 ,cercopidae graminace7ae7 graminaceae ,pedro ,joao ,baptista ,pedro ,joao ,baptista ,antonio ,jose_/ ,antonio ,jose ,senhor ,grac1a ,senhor ,graca al7ae7 alae ,kama_/ue ,kamaue ,sylviad7ae7 ,sylviadae ,muanza_/nza ,muanzanza ,zaire_/ ,zaire ,zere_/zere_/ ,zerezere alg7ae7 algae ,tanganye_/nka ,tanganyenka aerial aerial arac1a araca ,limbo-a ,limboa ,lofuje_/ ,lofuje ,boie_/ ,boie hygiene hygiene ,sekwe_/bu ,sekwebu ,ntlarie_/ ,ntlarie ,nkwatle_/le ,nkwatlele ,moriantsa_/ne ,moriantsane ,nampe_/ne ,nampene ,leko_/ne ,lekone ,seko_/te ,sekote ,kala_/i ,kalai motse_/ oa barimo motse oa barimo ,loye_/la ,loyela ,mokwine_/ ,mokwine mane_/ko maneko motsintse_/la motsintsela pup7ae7 pupae ,pelop7ae7us ,pelopaeus ,mburu_/ma ,mburuma ,nyungwe_/ ,nyungwe ,sindese ,oale_/a ,sindese ,oalea aerolites aerolites ,chowe_/ ,chowe ,banya_/i ,banyai ,moho_/hu ,mohohu ,cho_/be ,chobe ,boro_/ma ,boroma ,nyampu_/ngo ,nyampungo ,katolo_/sa ,katolosa ,monomota_/pa ,monomotapa ,su_/sa ,susa ,nyate_/we ,nyatewe ,more_/na ,morena ,monomoi_/zes ,monomoizes ,monemui_/ges ,monemuiges ,monomui_/zes ,monomuizes ,monomota_/pistas ,monomotapistas ,mota_/pe ,motape ,babi_/sa ,babisa ,bazizu_/lu ,bazizulu ,masho_/na ,mashona ,moruru_/rus ,morururus ,boro_/mo ,boromo ,nyako_/ba ,nyakoba moku_/ri mokuri shekabaka_/dzi shekabakadzi ,loko_/le ,lokole ,mazo_/e ,mazoe ,te_/te ,tete ,te_/tte ,tette hom7oe7opathic homoeopathic chrysomelid7ae7 chrysomelidae ,lofu_/bu ,lofubu ,revu_/bu ,revubu ,morongo_/zi ,morongozi ,nyamboro_/nda ,nyamboronda brac1a braca ,mashi_/nga ,mashinga ,shindu_/ndo ,shindundo ,missa_/la ,missala ,kapa_/ta ,kapata ,ma_/no ,mano ,ja_/wa ,jawa ,panya_/me ,panyame ,dambara_/ri ,dambarari ,abu_/tua ,abutua ,mani_/ca ,manica hypog7ae7a hypogaea ,kansa_/la ,kansala ,luapu_/ra ,luapura ,luame_/ji ,luameji ,muro_/mbo ,murombo shitakote_/ko shitakoteko ,mpa_/mbe ,mpambe ,nya_/mpi ,nyampi ,za_/mbi ,zambi e_/clat eclat pharmacop7oe7ia pharmacopoeia ,goo- ,go-o amenorrh7oe7a amenorrhoea ,inya_/kanya_/nya ,inyakanyanya ,morumba_/la ,morumbala ,nyamo_/nga ,nyamonga ,gorongo_/zo ,gorongozo ,sofa_/la ,sofala ,sabi_/a ,sabia ,senhor ,ferrao ,senhor ,ferrao ,nje_/fu ,njefu ,maza_/ro ,mazaro ,baro_/ro ,baroro ,lu_/abo ,luabo ,muse_/lo ,muselo ,nyangu_/e ,nyangue ,senor ,senor ,aseve_/do ,asevedo ,mu_/tu ,mutu ,panga_/zi ,pangazi ,lua_/re ,luare ,likua_/re ,likuare ,maiudo ,maiudo