,,the ,,book ,,of ,,household ,,management2 ,comprising ,information for the ,,mistress1 ,,housekeeper1 ,,cook1 ,,kitchen-,,maid1 ,,butler1 ,,footman1 ,,coachman1 ,,valet1 ,,upper ,,and ,,under ,,house-,,maids1 ,,lady',s-,,maid1 ,,maid-,,of-,,all-,,work1 ,,laundry-,,maid1 ,,nurse ,,and ,,nurse-,,maid1 ,,monthly1 ,,wet1 ,,and ,,sick ,,nurses1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 ,,also1 ,,sanitary1 ,,medical1 ,,legal ,,memoranda2 ,,with ,a ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,origin1 ,,properties1 ,,and ,,uses ,,of ,,all ,,things ,,connected ,,with ,,home ,,life ,,and ,,comfort4 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,isabella ,,beeton4 ,nothing lovelier can be found ,in ,woman1 than to study household good4--,,milton4 ,published ,originally ,by ,s4 ,o4 ,beeton in #bd ,monthly ,parts #ahei-ahfa4 ,first ,published in a ,bound ,edition #ahfa4 ,,preface4 ,i must frankly own1 that if ,i had known1 beforehand1 that this book would have cost me the labour which it has1 ,i should never have been courageous enough to commence it4 ,what moved me1 in the first instance1 to attempt a work like this1 was the discomfort and suffering which ,i had seen brought upon men and women by household mismanagement4 ,i have always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than a housewife's badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways4 ,men are now so well served out of doors1--at their clubs1 well-ordered taverns1 and dining-houses1 that in order to compete with the attractions of these places1 a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery1 as well as be perfectly conversant with all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable home4 ,in this book ,i have attempted to give1 under the chapters devoted to cookery1 an intelligible arrangement to every recipe1 a list of the ingredients1 a plain statement of the mode of preparing each dish1 and a careful estimate of its cost1 the number of people for whom it is sufficient1 and the time when it is seasonable4 ,for the matter of the recipes1 ,i am indebted1 in some measure1 to many correspondents of the ,englishwoman's ,domestic ,magazine1 who have obligingly placed at my disposal their formulas for many original preparations4 ,a large private circle has also rendered me considerable service4 ,a diligent study of the works of the best modern writers on cookery was also necessary to the faithful fulfilment of my task4 ,friends in ,england1 ,scotland1 ,ireland1 ,france1 and ,germany1 have also very materially aided me4 ,i have paid great attention to those recipes which come under the head of ,,cold ,,meat ,,cookery4 ,but in the department belonging to the ,cook ,i have striven1 too1 to make my work something more than a ,cookery ,book1 and have1 therefore1 on the best authority that ,i could obtain1 given an account of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which we use as food4 ,i have followed the animal from his birth to his appearance on the table2 have described the manner of feeding him1 and of slaying him1 the position of his various joints1 and1 after giving the recipes1 have described the modes of carving ,meat1 ,poultry1 and ,game4 ,skilful artists have designed the numerous drawings which appear in this work1 and which illustrate1 better than any description1 many important and interesting items4 ,the coloured plates are a novelty not without value4 ,besides the great portion of the book which has especial reference to the cook's department1 there are chapters devoted to those of the other servants of the household1 who have all1 ,i trust1 their duties clearly assigned to them4 ,towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the ,management of ,children----,the ,doctor1 the latter principally referring to accidents and emergencies1 some of which are certain to occur in the experience of every one of us2 and the last chapter contains ,legal ,memoranda1 which will be serviceable in cases of doubt as to the proper course to be adopted in the relations between ,landlord and ,tenant1 ,tax-gatherer and ,tax-payer1 and ,tradesman and ,customer4 ,these chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully entitled to confidence2 those on medical subjects by an experienced surgeon1 and the legal matter by a solicitor4 ,i wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations ,i have received during the progress of this work1 and have only further to add1 that ,i trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which ,i have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen and countrywomen4 ,,isabella ,,beeton4 ,,general ,,contents ,,chap4 ,i4--,,the ,,mistress4 #b4--,,the ,,housekeeper4 #c4--;,,arrangement ,,and ,,economy ,,of ,,the ,,kitchen4 #d4--;,,introduction ,,to ,,cookery4 #e4--;,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,soups4 #f4--,,recipes4 #g4--,,the ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,fishes4 #h4--,,recipes4 #i4--,,sauces1 ,,pickles1 ,,gravies1 ,,and ,,forcemeats4--,,general ,,remarks4 #aj4--,,recipes4 #aa4--,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,cooking ,,meat4 #ab4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,quadrupeds4 #ac4--,,recipes4 #ad4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,sheep ,,and ,,lamb4 #ae4--,,recipes4 #af4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,common ,,hog4 #ag4--,,recipes4 #ah4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,calf4 #ai4--,,recipes4 #bj4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,birds4 #ba4--,,recipes4 #bb4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,game4 #bc4--,,recipes4 #bd4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,vegetables4 #be4--,,recipes4 #bf4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,puddings ,,and ,,pastry4 #bg4--,,recipes #bh4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,creams1 ,,jellies1 ,,souffl,s1 ,,omelets1 ,,and ,,sweet ,,dishes4 #bi--,,recipes4 #cj4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,preserves1 ,,confectionery1 ,,ices1 ,,and ,,dessert ,,dishes4 #ca4--,,recipes4 #cb4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,milk1 ,,butter1 ,,cheese1 ,,and ,,eggs4 #cc4--,,recipes4 #cd4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,bread1 ,,biscuits1 ,,and ,,cakes4 #ce4--,,recipes4 #cf4--;,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,beverages4 #cg4--,,recipes4 #ch4--;,,invalid ,,cookery4 #ci4--,,recipes4 #dj4--;,,dinners ,,and ,,dining4 #da4--;,,domestic ,,servants4 #db4--,,the ,,rearing ,,and ,,management ,,of ,,children1 ,,and ,,diseases ,,of ,,infancy ,,and ,,childhood4 #dc4--,,the ,,doctor #dd4--,,legal ,,memoranda ,,analytical ,,index4 ,,note4--,where a p occurs before the number for reference1 the page1 and not the paragraph1 is to be sought4 ,accidents1 injuries1 c4 remarks on #begh ,agreements #bgje-g ,alexanders #aajh ,alkalis #bfed ,allium1 the genus #aabi ,allspice #dch ,almond1 the #abai ,bitter #abbj ,cake #ageb ,cheesecakes #abai ,flowers #acaf ,icing for cakes #agce ,paste1 for second-course dishes #abbj ,pudding1 baked #abba ,puddings1 small #abbb ,puffs #abbc ,soup #aaj ,tree #aaj1 #adhg ,uses of the ,sweet #abba ,almonds1 and raisins #afje ,husks of #abbb ,anchovy1 the #bbf ,butter #afcg ,butter or paste #bbg ,paste #bbh ,sauce #cfb ,toast #bbh ,anchovies1 fried #bbf ,potted #bbg ,animals1 period between birth and maturity #ib ,quality of the flesh of #ic-e ,saxon names of #gji ,tails of #fdj ,tongues of #fge ,apoplexy #bfcd-f ,apple1 the #aaa ,charlotte #adbj ,charlotte aux pommes #adah an easy method of making #adai ,cheesecakes #abbf ,constituents of the #abbi ,custard1 baked #achi ,dumplings1 baked #abbe boiled #abbg ,fritters #acic ,ginger #adbd1 #aeaf ,jam #aeag ,jelly #aeah-ai clear #acif or marmalade #acie ,pudding1 baked1 rich #abbh more economical #abbi very good #abca boiled #abcb iced #abij rich1 sweet #abcj ,sauce1 brown #cfd for geese or pork #cfc ,snow #adja ,snowballs #abce ,souffl #adjb ,soup #aaa ,tart1 creamed #abcd or pie #abcc ,tourte or cake #abcf ,trifle #adjd ,universally popular #abcf ,uses of the #abbe-f ,apples1 la ,portugaise #acih ,and rice #adjj a pretty dish #acig ,buttered #acij ,compote of #aeae ,dish of #afjc ,flanc of #acia-b ,ginger #adbd ,ices #acid ,in red jelly #acii ,stewed1 and custard #adjc ,to preserve in quarters 7imitation of ginger7 #aebj ,apprentices #bgbd ,apricot1 cream #adje ,jam or marmalade #aebb ,pudding #abch ,qualities of the #abci ,tart #abci ,apricots1 compote of #aeba ,flanc of #adjf ,arrowroot1 biscuits1 or drops #agch ,blancmange #adjg ,arrowroot1 ,manufacture of #chg1 #abdj ,pudding1 baked or boiled #abdj ,sauce for puddings #acef ,to make #ahee ,what ,miss ,nightingale says of #ahee ,arsenic #bfef ,artichoke1 composite or composite flowers of #ajhj ,constituent properties of the #ajhc ,jerusalem #ajhf ,uses of the #ajhd ,artichokes1 a ,french mode of cooking #ajhb ,a l',italienne #ajhc ,fried #ajha ,jerusalem1 boiled #ajhd mashed #ajhe soup #aab with white sauce #ajhf ,to boil #ajhj ,asparagus1 ancient notion of #aad ,boiled #ajhg ,island #ajhg ,medicinal uses of #ajhh ,peas #ajhh ,pudding #ajhi ,sauce #cfe ,soup #aac-ad ,aspic1 or ornamental savoury jelly #cff ,attestation to wills #bgej ,bachelor's omelet #adfb ,pudding #abda ,bacon1 boiled #hjd ,broiled rashers of #hjc ,curing of #hbb and keeping it free from rust #hjf-i in the ,devonshire way #hba in the ,wiltshire way #hje ,fried rashers of1 and poached eggs #hjb ,bain-,marie #dcj ,bakewell pudding1 very rich #abdb ,plainer #abdc ,ball suppers pp4 #ieg-h ,bandoline1 to make #bbee ,bantam1 the #ici ,barbel1 the #bbi ,to dress #bbi ,barberries1 in bunches #aebc ,barberry1 description of the #abde ,tart #abde ,barley1 #aaf ,gruel #ahef ,soup #aaf ,sugar #aebd ,water1 to make #aheg ,baroness pudding #abdd ,basil #agc ,baths and fomentations1 remarks on #beii ,cold #bfjc ,heat of #bfjj ,warm and hot bath #bfja ,batter pudding1 baked #abdf with fruits #abdg boiled #abdh orange #abdi ,bay or laurel1 varieties of #ahj ,consecrated by priests #eab ,bean1 haricot1 the #aabj ,beans1 boiled1 broad or ,windsor #ajib ,french #ajij ,broad1 la poulette #ajic ,french mode of cooking #ajia ,haricots and minced onions #aaba blancs la maitre d'htel #aabj blancs1 or white haricots #aaai and lentils #aaai ,nutritive properties of #ajib ,origin and varieties of #ajic ,bchamel1 or ,french white sauce #cfg ,maigre1 or without meat #cfh ,sauce #djf ,beef1 aitchbone of1 boiled #fjg to carve an p4 #caf ,a la mode #fja-b ,baked #eih-i ,baron of #fgi ,bones1 broiled #fad ,brisket of1 la ,flamande #fdi to carve a p4 #cag to stew #fdi ,broiled1 and mushroom sauce #fab oyster sauce #fac ,cake #faj ,carving p4 #caf ,collared #fag ,collops #ah minced #fai ,curried #fbj ,different seasons for #faa ,dripping1 to clarify #fba-b ,fillet of roast1 larded #fbc ,french #fdi ,frenchman's opinion of #fbf ,fricandeau of #fbd ,fried1 salt #fbe ,fritters #fbg ,hashed #fbh-i ,hung1 to prepare #fcj ,hunter's #fca ,kidney1 to dress #fcb-d ,marrow-bones boiled #fce ,minced #fcf ,miriton of #fcg ,names of the several joints #eig ,olives #fej-a ,palates1 to dress #fec ,pickle for #fed ,potted #fdb-c ,qualities of #eii ,ragot of #fef ,rib bones of #fdd ,ribs of1 boned and rolled1 roast 7joint for a small family7 #feh roast #feg to carve p4 #cag ,rissoles #fae ,roast #feh ,rolled #fdf ,rolls #fdg ,round of1 boiled #fjh miniature #fah to carve a p4 #cah ,round of1 to pickle part of a #fee ,rump of1 stewed #fgj steak #fff ,sausages #ffb ,seasons for #faa ,shin of1 stewed #fga ,sirloin of1 roast #fei to carve a p4 #cag ,sliced and broiled #ffd ,spiced 7to serve cold7 #ffe ,steak1 a fried rump #fbf and kidney pudding #fjc oyster sauce #fjc broiled #faa pie #fjd pudding1 baked #fej rolled1 roasted1 and stuffed #ffc stewed1 and celery sauce #ffg with oysters #ffh with fried potatoes #fjf ,tea1 baked #ahfj savoury #ahei to make #aheh ,tongue1 boiled #fgc pickle for #fda to carve a p4 #cah to cure a #fgd-e to pickle and dress a1 to eat cold #fgf ,to salt #ffj ,dutch way #ffa ,beef-tea1 ,dr4 ,christison's #ahei ,miss ,nightingale's opinion of #aheh ,beer1 table #aia ,beetroot #ajid ,boiled #ajid ,pickled #cfi ,benton sauce #cgj ,bequests1 legacies1 c4 #bgdd-i ,beverages1 general observations on #aghi1 #ahjf ,bills of fare1 for ,january pp4 #iji-ac ,february #iad-ag ,march #iah-ba ,april #ibb-be ,may #ibf-bi ,june #icj-cc ,july #icd-cf ,august #icg-ci ,september #idj-db ,october #idc-de ,november #idf-dh ,december #idi-eb ball supper for #fj persons p4 #ieg ball supper1 cold collation1 for a summer entertainment for #gj or #hj persons p4 #ieh breakfasts #iei game dinner for #cj persons p4 #iec luncheons and suppers p4 #iei menu1 service la ,russe pp4 #ied-e picnic for #dj persons #ifj suppers p4 #ief ,birds1 general observations on #iag-be ,biscuit powder #agcg ,biscuits1 arrowroot #agch ,cocoa nut #agdj ,crisp #agda ,dessert #agdb ,lemon #agdc ,macaroons #agdd ,ratafias #agde ,remarks on #agab-ae ,rice #agdf ,rock #agdg ,savoy #agdh ,seed #agdi ,simple1 hard #agej ,soda #agea ,bites and stings1 general remarks on #bfji of insects #bfaj-aa of snakes #bfab ,of dogs #bfac ,blackcock1 heathcock1 c4 #ajai ,roast #ajai ,to carve a #ajed ,blancmange #adjh ,arrowroot4 #adjg ,cheap #adji ,lemon #addb ,rice #adgf ,bleeding1 from the nose #bfjg ,operation of #bfje-f ,blonde1 to clean #bbfe ,blood1 spitting of #bfjh ,boar's head1 importance of the #hae ,the ,westphalian #ghg ,bones1 dislocation of #bfad ,fracture of #bfae ,bonnets #bbdd ,books of account #bgca ,boots1 polish for #bbdj-a ,bottled fresh fruit #aedb-c with sugar #aedd ,boudin1 la reine #ifa ,brain1 concussion of1 stunning #bfbc ,brandy1 cherry #aebf ,lemon #dfj ,orange #ahbf ,varieties of #acbh ,bread1 and bread-making #affh-agjc ,and-butter fritters #adaj pudding #abee ,crumbs1 fried #dbd ,fried for borders #dbf ,indian-corn-flour #agba ,making in ,spain #aggf ,origin of #aag ,properties of #abeb ,pudding1 baked #abej boiled #abeb brown #abec miniature #abed very plain #abed ,rice #agbj ,sauce #cga-b ,sippets of1 fried #dbe ,soda #agbb ,bread1 soup #aag ,to make a peck of good #agai ,to make good home-made #agah ,to make yeast for #agaf ,breakfasts p4 #iei1 par #badd-f ,breath1 shortness of1 or difficult breathing #bfgj ,bride-cake1 rich #agec ,bridles #bbah ,brill1 the #bcj ,to carve a pp4 #age-f ,brilla soup #aff ,brocoli1 boiled #ajie ,broth1 calf's-foot #ahfb ,chicken #ahfc ,eel #ahff ,mutton to make #ahgb ,mutton to quickly make #ahgc ,brown roux for thickening gravies #ebe ,browning1 for sauces and gravies #cgc ,for stock #ajh ,bruises1 lacerations1 and cuts #bfag ,treatment of #bfah ,brushes1 to wash #bbej ,brussels sprouts1 boiled #ajif ,bubble-and-squeak #faf ,bullock's heart1 to dress a #fae ,buns1 light #agca ,plain #agbi ,to make good plain #agcj ,victoria #agcb ,burns and scalds #bfai ,treatment of the first class of #bfbj ,treatment of the second class #bfba ,treatment of the third class #bfbb ,butler1 care of plate and house #bafb ,duties of the1 at breakfast1 luncheon1 dinner1 and dessert #baeg-i luncheon1 in the drawing-room #bafa ,lights1 attention to #bafj ,wine1 bottling #bafg-gj ,wine1 cellar #bafc-e ,wine1 fining #baff ,butter1 anchovy #bbg1afcg ,antiquity of #abje ,beurre noir1 or brown butter 7a ,french sauce7 #cgd ,clarified #cge ,colouring of #afcf ,curled #afce ,easily digested #abee ,fairy #afcf ,general observations on #afae-ai ,how to keep #afce ,how to keep fresh #abjg ,in haste #abjf ,maitre d'htel #dfe ,melted #cgf-g ,melted 7the ,french sauce blanche7 #cgh ,melted made with milk #chj ,moulds for moulding fresh butter #afcd ,thickened #cgi ,to keep and choose1 fresh #afcb ,to preserve and to choose1 salt #afcc ,what to do with rancid #abjh ,cabbage1 the #aah ,boiled #ajih ,colewort1 or wild #ajii ,green kale1 or borecole #ajig ,kohl-,rabi1 or turnip #ajie ,qualities of the #aafi ,red1 pickled #dii ,red1 stewed #ajii ,savoy1 and ,brussels sprouts #ajif ,savoy1 description of the #adj ,soup #aah ,tribe and their origin #ajih ,turnip tops and greens #aafi ,cabinet1 or chancellor's pudding #abef ,plain1 or boiled bread-and-butter pudding #abeg ,caf au lait #ahab ,noir #ahac ,cake1 almond #ageb ,breakfast1 nice #agci ,bride or ,christening #agec ,christmas #aged ,cocoa-nut #agdj ,economical #agef ,good holiday #agfc ,honey #ageh ,lemon #agfd ,luncheon #agfe ,nice useful #ageg ,pavini #agga ,plain #agff ,plain for children #agfg ,plum1 common #agfh ,plum1 nice #agfi ,pound #aggj ,queen #aggc ,rice #agdf1 #aggb ,saucer1 for tea #aggd ,savoy #agdh1 #aghb ,scrap #aggi ,seed1 common #agge seed1 very good #aggf ,snow #aggg-h ,soda #agha ,sponge #aghc-d ,sponge ,small1 to make #aghe ,tea #aghf ,tea to toast #aghg ,tipsy #adhg ,tipsy an easy way of making #adhh ,yeast #aghh ,cakes1 hints on making and baking #agjd-aa ,calf1 the #agc ,birth of the #hic ,breeding of the #heh ,fattening the #ijc ,feeding a #hfb ,general observations on the #hde-ec ,in ,america #hfd ,names of the #hii ,symbol of ,divine power #hij ,the golden #hgc ,when it should be killed #hfj ,calf's feet1 baked or stewed #ahfa ,calf's feet1 boiled with parsley and butter #hfj ,calf's feet1 broth #ahfb ,calf's feet1 fricasseed #hfa jelly #adaf ,head1 la ,maitre d'htel #hfd boiled #hgf-g collared #hfb club #hfg fricasseed #hfc hashed #hgh soup #afg to carve a #iac ,liver and bacon #hha aux fines herbes #hhj larded and roasted #hhb ,udder1 for ,french forcemeats #dba ,calomel #bfeh ,camp-vinegar #cha ,canary-pudding #abeh ,candlesticks #bcaa ,cannelons1 or fried puffs #adag ,caper-sauce1 for boiled mutton #chb ,for fish #chc ,substitute for #chd ,capercalzie1 the #ajbf ,capers #chc ,capsicums1 pickled #che ,carbonate of soda #agfe ,carp1 the #bdb ,age of the #bdc ,baked #bdb ,stewed #bdc ,carpet sweeping #bcab ,carriages #bbbe-i ,carrot1 the #aba ,constituents of the #aaja ,jam1 to imitate apricot preserve #aebe ,nutritive properties of the #aajb ,origin of the #aajj ,pudding1 boiled or baked #abei ,seed of the #aajc ,soup #abj-a ,varieties of the #aagb ,carrots1 boiled #aajj ,sliced #aajc ,stewed #aajb ,to dress in the ,german way #aaja ,carving1 beef p4 #caf aitchbone of p4 #caf brisket of p4 #cag ribs of p4 #cag round of p4 #cah sirloin of p4 #cag ,blackcock #ajed ,brill pp4 #age-f ,calf's head #iac ,codfish p4 #agd ,duck #iii wild #ajee ,fowl #ajjj-a ,goose #ajjb ,grouse #ajeh ,ham #hdc ,hare #ajef ,lamb #gfd-e ,landrail #ajfc ,mutton1 haunch of #gei leg of #gfj loin of #gfa mutton1 saddle of #gfb shoulder of #gfc ,partridge #ajeg ,pheasant #ajei ,pigeon #ajfc ,plover #ajff ,pork #hdb leg of #hdd ,ptarmigan #ajfd ,quail #ajfe ,rabbit #ajjd ,salmon p4 #age ,snipe #ajfj ,soles p4 #age ,sucking-pig #hdb ,teal #ajfg ,tongue p4 #cah ,turbot p4 #age ,turkey #ajje ,veal #hed breast of #iab fillet of #iad knuckle of #iae loin of #iaf ,venison1 haunch of #ajfa ,widgeon #ajfh ,woodcock #ajfb ,cauliflower1 description of the #aaje ,properties of the #aaea ,cauliflowers1 la sauce blanche #aaje ,boiled #aajd ,with ,parmesan cheese #aajf ,cayenne1 varieties of #cfb ,vinegar or essence of cayenne #chf ,celery1 indigenous to ,britain #abb ,origin of #aaji ,sauce for boiled turkey1 poultry1 c4 #chg 7a more simple recipe7 #chh ,soup #abb ,stewed #aaaj la crme #aajh with white sauce #aaji-aj ,to dress #aajg ,various uses of #dda1 #aajg ,vinegar #chi ,champagne #ahcb ,cup #ahcb ,chanticleer and his companions #idg ,chantilly soup #abc ,char1 the #bdc ,charlotte apple1 very simple #adbj ,aux pommes1 an easy method of making #adah-ai ,russe #adba ,cheese #afch ,cayenne #afdb ,cream #afbb ,damson #aecf ,decomposed #afch ,fondue #afdc ,brillat ,savarin's #afdd ,general observations on #afbj-b ,macaroni1 as usually served with #afde-g ,mode of serving #afdj ,pork #gii ,paragraph ,pounded #afdh ,raisin #aehg ,ramakins1 to serve with #afdi-ej ,sandwiches #afda ,scotch rarebit #afea ,smoking #afdj ,stilton #afci ,toasted1 or ,scotch rarebit #afea ,welsh #afeb ,cheesecakes1 almond #abai ,apple #abbf ,lemon #abib ,cherokee or store sauce #ebh ,cherries1 dried #aebg ,morello1 to preserve #aefa ,to preserve in syrup #aebi ,cherry1 brandy #aebf ,jam #aebh ,sauce for sweet puddings #aceg ,tart #abfa ,tree in ,rome #aefa ,varieties of the #abfa ,chervil1 peculiarities of #abi ,chestnut sauce1 brown #cia for fowls or turkey #cij ,spanish1 soup #abd ,uses of the #abd ,chicken1 boiled #ich ,broth #ahfc ,curried #idb ,cutlets #ibf ,french #ibg ,fricasseed #ide ,or fowl patties #ibh pie #ibi ,potted #icj ,pox1 or glass-pox #bech-db ,salad #ica ,chickens1 age and flavour of #ica ,chili vinegar #cic ,china chilo #gab ,chocolate1 box of #aejb ,cream #adcj ,history of #adcj ,souffl #adbg ,to make #ahjg ,cholera1 and autumnal complaints #bfbd ,christmas1 cake #aged ,plum-pudding1 very good #acbh ,pudding1 plain1 for children #acbg ,christopher ,north's sauce for game or meat #cid ,chub1 the #bdc ,churning #bcfe ,churns #bcfb ,cleaning the #bcfh ,cinnamon-tree1 the #ebd ,citron1 uses of the #acbi ,varieties of the #adcf ,claret cup #ahca ,varieties of #ahca ,cleanings1 periodical #bcbf-i ,cleanliness1 advantages of #bfhi ,clothes1 cleaning #bbci ,clove1 derivation of the name #dcf ,tree #cfg ,coach-house and stables #bbjd ,coach-house and stables1 furniture of the #bbji ,harness-room #bbjh ,heat of stables #bbje ,horse1 the #bbjc ,stalls #bbjg ,ventilation of stables #bbjf ,coachman1 carriages #bbbe-i ,choosing horses #bbca ,driving #bbcb ,duties of the #bbaj ,pace of driving #bbcj ,whip1 the #bbcc ,cock-a-,leekie #acd ,cocoa and chocolate1 various uses of #ahjg ,to make #ahaf ,cocoa-nut1 the #abe ,cakes or biscuits #agdj ,soup #abe ,cod1 fecundity of the #bda ,food of the #bcg ,habitat of the #bci ,method of preserving #bcc ,season for fishing for the #bdj ,sounds #bcd ,tribe1 the #bca ,codfish1 the #bca ,a la ,bchamel #bci crme #bcc ,a l',italienne #bda ,a la maitre d'htel #bdj ,curried #bcg ,head and shoulders of #bcb to carve p4 #agd ,pie #bce-f ,preserving #bcc ,salt1 7commonly called salt fish7 #bcc ,sounds #bcc en poule #bcd ,to choose #bcb ,coffee1 ,caf au lait #ahab ,caf noir #ahac ,essence of #ahjh ,miss ,nightingale's opinion on #ahfe ,nutritious #ahfd ,plant #ahaa ,simple method of making #ahaa ,to make #ahaj ,to roast #ahji ,cold-meat cookery3-- ,beef1 baked #eih-i bones1 broiled #fad broiled1 and mushroom sauce #fab oyster sauce #fac bubble-and-squeak #faf cake #faj curried #fbj fried salt #fbe fritters #fbg hashed #fbh-i minced #fcf miriton of #fcg olives #fea potted #fac ragot #fef rissoles #fae rolls #fdg sliced and broiled #ffd stewed1 and celery sauce #ffg with oysters #ffh ,calf's head1 a la maitre d'htel #hfd fricasseed #hfc hashed #hgh ,chicken1 cutlets #ibg or fowl patties #ibh potted #icj salad #ica ,duck1 hashed #icb stewed and peas #ice turnips #icg wild1 hashed #ajbj ragot of #ajba ,fish1 and oyster pie #beg cake #beh cod1 la ,bchamel #bci la crme #bch curried #bcg pie #bce-f salmon1 curried #cje scallop #cej-a turbot1 la crme #cda au gratin #cdb fillets of1 baked #cci l',italienne #cdj ,fowl1 la ,mayonnaise #ifb boudin1 la ,reine #ifa croquettes of #iec-d fricasseed #idf fried #idg-h hashed #iee ,indian fashion #ieg ,indian dish of #iei minced #ief la ,bchamel #iej or chicken1 curried #idb ragot #iea scollops #feh saut1 with peas #ifj ,game1 hashed #ajbc ,goose1 hashed #ifg ,hare1 broiled #ajbi hashed #ajcj ,lamb1 hashed1 and broiled bladebone #gdi ,mutton1 baked minced #gjc broiled and tomato sauce #gaj collops #gca curried #gac cutlets #gad dormers #gae haricot #gah hashed #gai hodge-podge #gbj pie #gcc ragot of neck #gcf toad in hole #gdc ,pork1 cheese #gif cutlets #gif hashed #hja ,turkey1 croquettes of #ihg fricasseed #ihh hashed #ihi ,veal1 baked #hef cake #hei collops1 ,scotch #hgj-a curried #hfe fillet of1 au ,bchamel #hhc loin of1 au ,bchamel #hhg minced #hhi-ib olive pie #hie patties1 fried #hif ragout of #ijj rissoles #ija rolis #ijb tte de veau en tortue #iaa ,venison1 hashed #ajej ,cold1 to cure a #bfbe ,on the chest #bfbf ,college pudding #abfc ,collops1 cooking #hga ,scotch #hgj ,scotch white #hga ,combs1 to clean #bbea ,compote of1 ,apples #aeae ,apricots #aeba ,damsons #aecg ,figs1 green #aeda ,gooseberries #aeae ,greengages #aeea ,oranges #aefe ,peaches #aegb ,compotes1 to make syrup for #aeab ,confectionary1 general observations on #aejh ,consomm1 or white stock for many sauces #cie ,constructive notices #bfii ,convulsions or fits #beai-bb ,cook1 duties of the cook1 kitchen1 and scullery-maids #gi ,early rising #hj ,first duty of the #ha ,general directions to the #ge duties of the #hb-d ,cookery1 cleanliness of utensils used in #gb ,excellence in the art of #gh ,explanation of ,french terms used in #hg ,introduction to #gf ,measures used in #gg ,copper #bfei ,coriander plant1 the #agd ,corks1 with wooden tops #ddf ,corrosive sublimate #bfeg ,cow1 cheese #afeb ,heel1 fried #fci stock for jellies #adab ,pox1 or vaccination #bedc-f or variola #ijf ,cows1 cost of keep for #bcgj ,cowslip wine #ahag ,crab1 hot #bde ,sauce1 for fish #cif ,to dress #bdd ,tribe1 the #bde ,crape1 to make old look like new #bbgg ,crayfish1 the #bdf ,crayfish1 how preserved #aic ,potted #bdg ,soup #aic ,cream1 la ,valois #adbb ,apricot #adje ,chocolate #adcj ,devonshire #afcj ,ginger #adcb ,italian #adcg ,lemon #addc economical #addd or custards #addf very good #adde ,noyeau #adeb ,orange1 ,seville #adfd sweet #adfc ,peculiarities of #ache ,raspberry #adge ,sauce for fish or white dishes #cig ,stone1 of tous les mois #adhc ,swiss #adhe ,to make ice fruit #aeee ,vanilla #adij ,whipped #adib ,creams1 general observations on #ache ,croquettes of1 fowl #iec-d ,rice #adgg ,croup #befh ,symptoms of #befi ,treatment of #begj-c ,crumpets #agbh ,crust1 butter1 for boiled puddings #abac ,common1 for raised pies #abag ,dripping1 for kitchen puddings and pies #abad ,for fruit tarts1 very good #abaj ,lard or flead #abah ,pt brise1 or ,french1 for raised pies #abaf ,short1 common #abab good #abaa ,suet1 for pies and puddings #abae ,cucumber1 antiquity of the #abg1 #djb ,chate #aaad ,geographical distribution of the #aaaa ,indigestible #aaeb ,properties and uses of the #aaac ,sauce #cih white #djj ,soup #abg ,vinegar 7a very nice addition to salads7 #dia ,cucumbers1 la poulette #aaab ,fried #aaac ,for winter use #djb ,pickled #cii ,preserving 7an excellent way7 #djc ,stewed #aaad with onions #aaae ,to dress #aaaa ,curds and whey #afbi ,currant1 dumplings #abfd ,fritters #adbi ,jam1 black #aecj red #aecb ,jelly1 black #aeca red #aecc white #aecd ,pudding1 black or red #abff boiled #abfe ,red1 and raspberry tart #abfg ,currants1 iced #aeeh ,uses of #abff ,zante1 description of #abfd ,curry powder #ddi ,custard1 apple1 baked #achi ,boiled #adbc ,creams1 or lemon #addf ,pudding1 baked #abfh boiled #abfi ,sauce for sweet puddings or tarts #djd ,tartlets1 or ,fanchonnettes #acae ,cutlets1 chicken #ibf ,french #ibg ,invalid's #ahfe ,lamb #gdg ,mutton #gcb ,italian #gbc of cold #gad ,pheasant #ajdj ,pork #gif-h ,salmon #cjf ,sauce for #eac ,veal #hff la ,maintenon #hfh ,cygnet1 the #iih ,dace1 the #bdc ,dairy1 the #bceh ,butter1 colouring of #bcff milk #bcfh washing #bcfg ,churning #bcfe ,churns #bcfb ,cleaning the churn1 c4 #bcfh ,cows1 cost of keep for #bcgj ,devonshire system #bcfi ,hair sieve #bcfj ,maid1 charge of dairy produce #bcga duties of the #bceg ,milk1 dishes #bcfa general management of #bcfd pails #bcei ,situation of the #bcfc ,dampfnudeln1 or ,german puddings #abhj ,damson1 the #abgj ,a very nice preserve #aeci ,cheese #aecf ,jam #aech ,pudding #abga ,tart #abgj ,damsons1 baked for winter use #aece ,compote of #aecg ,to preserve1 or any other kind of plums #aedj ,darioles1 la vanille #adbh ,date1 the #afje ,debts #bgee ,estate chargeable with #bgdh ,decanters1 to clean #baih1 #bccf ,deer1 the #ajdi ,fallow #ajej ,roebuck #ajea ,deer1 stag #ajea ,delhi pudding #abgb ,dentition #beji ,dessert1 biscuits #agdb ,dishes #aeih general remarks on #aeji ,devonshire1 cream #afcj ,junket #afca ,diarrhoea #begd-g ,dilapidations #bgah ,dinners1 and dining #ahgi-hf ,a la ,russe #bacg-h menu p4 #iee ,bills of fare for1 from #f to #ah persons1 from ,january to ,december pp4 #iji-eb ,bills of fare for game1 for #cj persons p4 #iec ,bills of fare for plain family pp4 #iac1 #iag1 #iba1 #ibe1 #ibi1 #icc1 #icf1 #ici1 #idb1 #ide1 #idh1 #ieb ,diseases of infancy and childhood #beji-gg ,dishes1 a hundred different #dcd ,domestics1 general remarks on #baec-f ,dormers #gae ,downs1 the #gbe ,draught1 for summer #ahcg ,dress and dressing of infants #bdia-f ,drink for warm weather1 pleasant #ahcf ,dripping1 to clarify #fba-b ,driving #bbcb-c ,drowning1 treatment after #bfgf ,duck1 the #icb ,american mode of capturing the #icf ,aylesbury #ice ,bow-bill #icf ,buenos ,ayres #icc ,eggs of the #icd1 #afeh ,fattening #icf ,hashed #icb ,hatching #ice ,man and dog1 decoy #icg ,roast #icd to carve a #iii ,rouen #icd ,snares in ,lincolnshire #icg ,stewed1 and peas #ice-f and turnips #icg ,to ragot a whole #icc ,varieties of the #icc ,wild1 the #icd1 #icg1 #ajbb hashed #ajbj ragot of #ajba roast #ajbb to carve a #ajee ,ducklings1 cooping and feeding #ice ,dumplings1 baked apple #abbe ,boiled apple #abbg ,currant #abfd ,lemon #abid ,marrow #acjf ,sussex1 or hard #acgf ,yeast #achc ,dusting #bcac ,dutch flummery #adbf ,sauce1 for fish #dje ,green1 or ,hollandaise verte #djf ,eel1 broth #ahff ,haunts of the #bed ,pie #bec ,productiveness of the #beb ,soup #aid ,tenacity of life of the #bef ,the common #bej ,tribe1 the #bdi ,voracity of the #bec ,eels1 la ,tartare #bee ,boiled #bdi ,collared #bed ,en matelote #bef ,fried #beb ,stewed #bej-a ,egg1 balls for soups and made dishes #djh ,sauce for salt fish #dji ,soup #abh ,wine #ahfg ,eggs1 la maitre d'htel #affj ,a la tripe #affg ,boiled for breakfast1 salads1 c4 #afef ,buttered #afeg ,ducks' #afeh ,for hatching #ibg-bh ,fried #afei ,general remarks on #afbc-f ,liaison of1 for thickening sauces #dfa ,oeufs au plat1 or au miroir #affa ,plovers' #affb ,poached #affc with cream #affd ,primitive method of cooking #afeh ,quality of #afed-e ,scotch #afff ,snow1 or oeufs la neige #adhb ,to choose #afed keep fresh for several weeks #afee pickle #djg ,veneration for #afei ,white of #achg ,will crack if dropped in boiling water #afef ,elderberry wine #ahah ,emetic1 tartar #bffj ,empress pudding #abgc ,endive1 la ,franaise #aaah ,genus of #aaaf ,plant #afi ,stewed #aaag ,to dress #aaaf ,entre1 beef or rump steak1 stewed #fff ,beef1 minced collops #fai ,boudin la reine #ifa ,calf's head1 fricasseed #hfc liver1 larded and roasted #hhb ,chicken and rice croquettes #iec-d cutlets #ibf or fowl1 fricasseed #ide ,fowl1 hashed #iee saut with peas #ifj ,lamb1 cutlets #gdg sweetbreads and asparagus #geg another way to dress #geh ,lark pie #iga ,lobster-curry #bgd ,entre1 lobster cutlets #bge patties #bgg ,oyster patties #bhi ,sweetbreads1 baked #ijf fried #ijg stewed #ijh ,veal cutlets #hff la ,maintenon #hfh broiled #hfg collops #hgi fricandeau of #hgd-e tendons de veau #iji-aj tte de veau #iaa ,vol au vent #acgi ,epaulettes of gold or silver #bbhg ,epicurean sauce #daj ,espagnole1 or brown ,spanish sauce #daa ,everton toffee #aeig ,exeter pudding #abgd ,eye1 lime in the #bfbi ,sore #bfbh ,stye in the #bfcj ,substances in the #bfbg ,eyelids1 inflammation of the #bfca ,fairy butter #afcf ,fanchonnettes1 or custard tartlets #acae ,fasting #bfcb ,feathers #bbhd ,fennel #dab ,sauce for mackerel #dab ,fig pudding #abge ,figs1 green1 compote of #aeda ,fish1 addendum and anecdote of p4 #agc ,and oyster pie #beg ,as an article of human food #baa-ah ,average prices #bbf ,cake #beh ,general directions for carving p44#agd-f dressing #bai-be rule in choosing #bbf ,in season ,january to ,december pp4 #cc-g ,kettle #cch ,pie with tench and eels #cdi ,sauce #dac1 #eab ,scallop #cej-a ,soup #aib ,stock #aib ,supply of1 for the ,london market #cec ,to smoke at home #hbj ,fishes1 natural history of #aii-baj ,fits #bfcc ,apoplexy #bfcd-f and drunkenness1 distinctions between #bfch epilepsy1 distinctions between #bfcg hysterics distinctions between #bfci poisoning by opium1 distinctions between #bfdj ,epilepsy #bfda ,fainting #bfdb ,hysterics #bfdc ,the consequence of dentition #beai-bb ,fixtures #bgac ,fleece1 the golden #gae ,floorcloth1 to clean #bcce ,flounder1 the #bei ,flounders1 boiled #bei ,fried #bfj ,flour1 nutritious qualities of #abah ,flowers1 to preserve cut #bbhi after packing #bbij ,flummery1 ,dutch #adbf ,fomentations #bfjb-c ,fondue1 ,brillat ,savarin's #afdd ,to make #afdc ,food for infants1 and its preparation #bdii1 #bejh ,footgear #bbde ,footman1 boot-cleaning #bagd ,boot tops #bagf ,breakfast1 laying cloth1 c4 #baha-c ,brushing clothes #bahj ,decanters #baih ,dinner #bahe-f ,dinners la ,russe #bahh ,dress and livery #bagb ,during dinner #baia ,early rising #bagc ,furniture-rubbing #bagi ,general duties #baga ,glass-washing #baig-h ,going out with the carriage #baij ,knives #bagg ,lamp-trimming #bagh ,letters and messages #bbjj ,luncheon1 duties at #bahd ,management of work #baif ,manners1 modesty1 c4 #baij ,opening wine #baib ,pantry #baie ,patent leather boots #bage ,politeness #bbja ,receptions and evening parties #bbjb ,removal of dishes #baic ,salt-cellars #bahg ,tea #baid ,waiting at table #bahi ,where a valet is not kept #bahb ,forcemeat1 balls for fish soups #dad ,boiled calf's udder for ,french #dba ,for baked pike #dac cold savoury pies #dae various kinds of fish #daf veal1 turkeys1 fowls1 hare1 c4 #dag ,french #dai-bj ,or quenelles1 for turtle soup1 ,soyer's receipt for #dbc ,oyster #dhi ,fowl1 la ,mayonnaise #ifb ,and rice croquettes #iec ,boiled #ich la ,bchamel #idc to carve #ajjj with oysters #idd rice #idj ,boudin la reine #ifa ,broiled and mushroom sauce #ici ,croquettes #ied ,curried #ida-b ,fricasseed #ide-f ,fried #idg-h ,hashed #iee an ,indian dish #ieg ,house1 the #idd stocking the #ide ,indian dish of #iej ,minced #ief la ,bchamel #iej ,pillau #ifc ,poulet aux cressons #ifd la ,marengo #idi ,ragot of #iea ,roast #ieb stuffed #ife to carve a #ajja ,saut1 with peas #ifj ,scallops #ieh ,to bone for fricassees #iie ,fowls1 la ,marengo #idi ,as food #ibf ,bantam #ici feather-legged #ieh ,best to fatten #iea way to fatten #idh ,black ,spanish #ifb ,characteristics of health and power #idf ,chip in #iec ,cochin ,china #idb ,common1 or domestic #ibf ,diseases of1 and how to cure #ieb ,dorking #idj ,eggs for hatching #ibg ,feeding and cooping #icj ,game #ich ,guinea #igj ,hatching #ibh ,moulting season1 the #ief ,obstruction of the crop #iee ,pencilled ,hamburg #ife ,poland #ida ,scour1 or ,dysentery in #ieg ,serai ,ta-ook1 or fowls of the ,sultan #ifc ,sir ,john ,sebright's bantams #ifa ,sitting #ibg ,skin disease in #iee ,space for #idc ,speckled ,hamburg #iei ,turn in #ied ,various modes of fattening #idh ,young #ibi ,freezing apparatus1 method of working the #abij ,french terms used in cookery #hg ,fritters1 apple #acic ,beef #fbg ,bread-and-butter #adaj ,currant #adbi ,indian #adce ,orange #adfe ,peach #adfi ,pineapple #adgb ,plain #adgc ,potato #adgd ,rice #adgh ,fruit1 dish of mixed #afja summer #afjd ,fresh to bottle #aedb-c ,ice creams1 to make #aeee ,in season1 ,january to ,december pp4 #cc-g ,spots1 to remove #bbgj ,to bottle with sugar #aedd ,turnovers #abgh ,water ices1 to make #aeef ,fuel #gc ,fungi1 analysis of #aabh ,varieties of #aabd ,furniture cleaning #bcjg1 #bcac ,gloss1 ,german #bcci ,polish #bcjh-i ,furs1 feathers1 and woollens #bbhd ,game1 general observations on #ajjf-ah ,hashed #ajbc ,in season1 ,january to ,december pp4 #cc-g ,garlic #cib ,geneva wafers #adca ,genevese sauce #dbg ,german pudding #abgi or ,dampfnudeln #abhj ,gherkins1 or young cucumbers #dbh ,pickled #dbh ,giblet pie #ife ,soup #afh ,gilt frames1 to brighten #bccg ,ginger1 apples #adbd ,beer #ahcc ,cream #adcb ,preserved #adcb ,pudding #abha ,qualities of #djg ,wine #ahai ,gingerbread1 nuts1 rich sweetmeat #agei ,sunderland #agfa ,thick #agfi ,white #agfb ,glaize1 cold joints to #dcj ,for covering cold hams1 tongues1 c #dcj ,kettle #dcj ,godfrey's cordial #bffc ,golden fleece1 order of the #gjh1 #gae ,pudding #abhb ,goose1 ,brent #iff ,description of the #ifh ,egyptian #ifi ,hashed #ifg ,roast #ifh to carve a #ajjb ,stuffing for 7,soyer's7 #eje ,to dress a green #ifi ,wild #ifg ,gooseberries1 compote of #aedf ,gooseberry1 the #abhe ,fool #adcc ,indigenous to ,british isles #dbi ,jam #aedg-h white or green #aedi ,jelly #aeej ,pudding1 baked #abhc ,gooseberry pudding1 boiled #abhd ,sauce for boiled mackerel #dbi ,tart #abhe ,trifle #adcd ,vinegar #ahbj ,wine1 effervescing #ahba ,grapes1 qualities of #afja ,grates #bbih1 #bbii1 #bcch ,gravy1 a quickly-made #dcd ,beef1 for poultry or game 7good7 #dce ,brown #dcf without meat #dcg ,cheap1 for minced veal #ddc hashes #ddj ,for roast meat #dcc venison #ddd ,general stock for #dcb ,jugged1 excellent #dda ,kettle #dcb ,made without meat1 for fowls #dci ,orange #dhh ,rich1 for hashes and ragouts #dch ,roux1 for thickening brown #ebe white #ebf ,soup #afi ,veal1 for white sauces1 fricassees #ddb ,greengage jam #aeeb ,greengages1 compote of #aeea ,to preserve dry #aeec in syrup #aeed ,green sauce #dca ,greens1 boiled1 turnip #aafi ,turnip-tops1 and cabbage #aafi ,groom1 bridles #bbah ,cleaning fawn or yellow leather #bbbc ,duties of the #bbaa ,exercising the horses #bbac ,feeding the horses #bbad-ae ,harness #bbai cleaning old #bbba-b paste #bbbj ,shoeing #bbag ,watering horses #bbab1 #bbaf ,wheel-grease #bbbd ,grouse1 description of the #afbe-bf ,pie #ajbd ,roast #ajbe ,salad #ajbf ,to carve a #ajeh ,gruel1 barley #ahcf ,to make #ahfh ,gudgeon1 the #bfa ,habitat of the #bfa ,guinea-fowl1 description of the #igj ,roast #igj ,guinea-pig1 the #iig ,gurnet1 the #bfb ,to dress #bfb ,haddock1 habitat of the #bfc ,finnan #bff ,weight of the #bfd ,haddocks1 baked #bfc ,boiled #bfd ,dried #bfe-f ,hair-dressing #bbdh-i ,hair1 pomade for #bbec-d ,to promote growth of #bbeg ,wash for #bbeb ,ham1 fried and eggs #hdc ,omelet #adeg ,potted #had-e ,to bake a #haj boil a #haa carve a #hdc give it an excellent flavour #hab glaize #dcj ,hams1 curing of #hbb ,for curing #haf ,to cure in the ,devonshire way #hba sweet1 in the ,westmoreland way #hah pickle #hai salt two #hag smoke at home #hbj ,hare1 broiled #ajbi ,extreme timidity of the #ajbg ,hashed #ajcj ,jugged #ajca-b ,potted #ajbh ,roast #ajbg ,soup #agj ,to carve a #ajef ,the common #agj ,haricot1 beans1 and minced onions #aaba ,blancs la matre d'htel #aabj ,mutton #gaf-ag-ah ,to boil blancs1 or white haricot beans #aaai ,harness1 cleaning old #bbba-b ,paste #bbbj ,room1 the #bbjh ,heart1 palpitation of the #bfdf ,henbane1 hemlock1 nightshade1 and foxglove #bffd ,herbs1 to dry for winter use #dde ,powder of1 for flavouring #ddf ,sweet #dag ,heradotus pudding #abhg ,herring1 the #bfh ,red #bfg ,herrings1 baked1 white #bfh ,red1 or ,yarmouth bleaters #bfg ,to choose #bfh ,hessian soup #aga ,hidden mountain1 the #adch ,hodge-podge #aia1 #gbj ,hog1 antiquity of the #hbf1 #hcd ,fossil remains of the #hbi ,general observations on the common #gfe-ie ,in ,england #hcg ,not bacon #hjg ,universality of the #hcc ,wild and domestic #hbc ,holly leaves1 to frost #aede ,honey cake #ageh ,hooping cough #bdfh1 #befd ,symptoms of #befe ,treatment of #beff-g ,horse1 the #bbjc ,horses1 choosing #bbca ,exercising #bbac ,horses feeding #bbbd-ae ,watering #bbab1 #bbaf ,horseradish1 the #ddg ,medical properties of the #aabb ,sauce #ddg ,vinegar #ddh ,hot spice #ebd ,housekeeper1 daily duties of the #eh-fa ,general duties of the #ee ,knowledge of cookery #eg ,necessary qualifications for a #ef ,housemaid1 bedroom1 attention to #bcjf1 #bcbc-d ,bright grates #bbih ,candlestick and lamp-cleaning #bccj ,carpet-sweeping #bcab ,chips broken off furniture #bccj ,cleanings1 periodical #bcbf-i ,dress of the #bcai ,dusting #bcac ,duties after dinner #bcba evening #bcbb general #bbib-d ,fire-lighting #bbif-g ,furniture-cleaning #bcjg1 #bcac ,general directions to the #bcjj-e ,hartshorn1 for plate-cleaning #bcaf ,laying dinner-table #bcad-e ,marble1 to clean #bccc-d ,needlework #bcbe ,plate1 to clean #bcag rags for daily use #bcah ,upper and under #bbia ,waiting at table #bcbj ,recipe1 ,brunswick black1 to make #bbie cement for joining broken glass or china #bcca-b decanters1 to clean #bccf floorcloth1 to clean #bcce furniture gloss1 ,german #bcci paste #bcaj polish #bcjh-i gilt frames1 to brighten #bccg grates and fire irons1 to preserve from rust #bcch polish for bright grates #bbii ,hunter's pudding #abhh ,husband and wife #bgbe-i ,hysterics #bfdc ,ice1 fruit creams1 to make #aeee ,lemon-water #aeeg ,to ice1 or glaze pastry #accd ,iced1 apple pudding #abij ,apples1 or apple hedgehog #acid ,currants #aeeh ,oranges #aefd ,pudding #abhi ,ices1 fruit-water1 to make #aeef ,general observations on #aeaj-aa ,icing1 for cakes1 almond #agce sugar #agcf ,indian1 ,chetney sauce #deb ,corn-flour bread #agba ,curry powder #ddi ,fritters #adce ,mustard #dej ,pickle #dea ,trifle #adcf ,infant1 the #bdfj-begg ,ink-spots1 to remove #bbga ,invalid cookery1 rules to be observed in #ahda-ed ,invalid's cutlet1 the #ahfe ,jelly #ahfi ,lemonade #ahgj ,insurance #bgjh-aj ,i4 ,o4 ,u41 the #bgbc ,irish stew #gba-b ,ironing #bbhb1 #bcic-f ,isinglass #adac ,italian1 cream #adcg ,mutton cutlets #gbc ,rusks #agcc ,sauce1 brown #dec white #dea ,jam1 apple #aeag ,apricot1 or marmalade #aebb ,carrot #aebe ,cherry #aebh ,currant1 black #aecj red #aech ,damson #aech ,gooseberry #aedg-h white or green #aedi ,greengage #aeeb ,omelet #adfj ,plum #aehj ,raspberry #aehh ,rhubarb #aeij and orange #aeia ,roly pudding #abia ,strawberry #aeid ,jaunemange #adci ,jelly1 apple #aeah-ai clear #acif thick1 or marmalade #acie ,bag1 how to make #adaa ,bottled1 how to mould #adad ,calf's foot #adaf ,cow-heel1 stock for #adab ,currant1 black #aeca red #aecc white #aecd ,general observations on #achf ,gooseberry #aeej ,invalid's #ahfi ,isinglass or gelatine #adac ,lemon #addg ,liqueur #addi ,moulded with fresh fruit #addj with slices of orange #adee ,of two colours #adda ,open with whipped cream #adec ,orange #aded ,quince #aehe ,raspberry #aehi ,savoury1 for meat pies #eba ,stock for1 and to clarify it #adaa ,strawberry #adhd ,to clarify syrup for #adae ,jewels #bbhf ,john dory1 the #bdh ,to dress the #bdh ,joints1 injuries to #bfaf ,julienne1 soup la #aia ,junket1 ,devonshire #afca ,kale brose #acb ,kegeree #bfi ,ketchup1 mushroom #dgb ,oyster #dij ,walnut #ece-f ,kettles for fish #cch ,kidney and beefsteak pudding #fje ,omelet #adeh ,kidneys1 broiled #gbd ,fried #gbe ,kitchen1 distribution of a #fb ,essential requirements of the #gj ,fuel for the #gc ,ranges #fe-f ,maid1 duties of the #he ,necessity for cleanliness #gb ,scullery maid1 duties of the #hf ,utensils1 ancient and modern #fi list of for the #ga ,kitchens of the ,middle ,ages #fb ,knives #bagg ,kohl ,rabi1 or turnip-cabbage #ajie ,lace collars1 to clean #bbff ,lady's maid1 arranging the dressing room #bbdf-g ,attention to bonnets #bbdd ,chausserie1 or foot-gear #bbde ,dressing1 remarks on #bbeh-i ,duties of the #bbac1 #bbfj-b when from home #bbhj evening #bbha ,epaulettes of gold or silver #bbhg ,fashions1 repairs1 c #bbfc ,hairdressing #bbdh lessons in #bbdi ,ironing #bbhb ,jewels #bbhf ,linen1 attention to #bbgh ,packing #bbgi ,rules of conduct #bbhh ,recipe1 bandoline1 to make #bbee ,blonde1 to clean #bbfe ,brushes1 to wash #bbej ,combs1 to clean #bbea ,crape1 to make old look like new #bbgg ,essence of lemon1 use of #bbgd ,flowers1 to preserve cut #bbhi to revive after packing #bbij ,fruit-spots1 to remove #bbgj ,furs1 feathers1 and woollens #bbhd ,grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials1 to remove #bbfh from silks or moires1 to remove #bbfi ,hair1 a good pomade for the #bbec-d ,hair1 a good wash for the #bbec to promote the growth of #bbeg ,lace collars1 to clean #bbff ,moths1 preservatives against the ravages of #bbhe ,paint1 to remove from silk cloth #bbgf ,pomatum1 an excellent #bbef ,ribbons or silk1 to clean #bbge ,scorched linen to restore #bbhc ,stains of syrup or preserved fruit1 to remove #bbgc ,to remove ink-spots #bbga ,wax1 to remove #bbgb ,lamb1 as a sacrifice #gdd ,breast of1 and green peas #gdd stewed #gde ,carving #gfa ,chops #gdf ,cutlets and spinach #gdg ,fore quarter1 to carve a #gfd to roast a #gej ,fry #gdh ,general observations on the #fih-gjb ,hashed and broiled blade-bone of #gdi ,leg of1 boiled #gea roast #geb ,loin of1 braised #gec ,saddle of #ged ,shoulder of #gee stuffed #gef ,lamb's sweetbreads1 larded #geg another way to dress #geh ,lambswool1 or lamasool #abbg ,lamp-cleaning #bagh1bcaa ,lamprey1 the #bef ,landlord and tenant1 relations of #bgjj ,landrail or corn-crake #ajcc ,roast #ajcc ,to carve #ajfc ,lard1 to melt #fbe ,larding #hbh ,lark-pie #iga ,larks1 roast #igb ,laundry1 situation of1 and necessary apparatus #bcgc-d ,maid1 cleaning and washing utensils #bchf ,general duties of the #bcgb ,ironing #bcic-f ,mangling and ironing #bchg-i ,rinsing #bcgi ,soaking linen #bcgf ,sorting linen #bcge ,starch1 to make #bcia-b ,starching #bcij ,washing #bcgg-h coloured muslins1 c #bchj flannels #bcha greasy cloths #bchb satin and silk ribbons #bchd silk handkerchiefs #bchc silks #bche ,laurel1 or bay #ahj ,law1 general remarks on #bfid ,lead1 and its preparations #bffa ,leamington sauce #dei ,lease1 breaks in the #bgaa ,leases1 general remarks on #bgjb-d ,leek1 badge of the ,welsh #acd ,soup #acc ,legacies #bgea-d ,bequests1 c #bgdd-i ,legal memoranda #bfid-bgea ,lemon1 anti venomous #dee ,biscuits #agdc ,blancmange #addb ,brandy #dfj ,cake #agfd ,cheesecakes #abib ,cream #addc 7economical7 #addd ,creams #adde or custards #addf ,dumplings #abid ,essence of #bbgd ,fruit of the #dje ,jelly #addg ,juice of the #def ,mincemeat #abic ,pudding1 baked #abie-g boiled #abih plain #abii ,rind or peel #dfj ,sauce for boiled fowls #deg for sweet puddings #aceh ,sponge #addh ,syrup #ahbb ,thyme #deh ,to pickle with the peel on #dee without the peel #def ,water ice #aeeg ,white sauce for fowls or fricassees #deh ,uses of the #abif ,wine #ahbc ,lemonade #ahcd ,for invalids #ahgj ,most harmless of acids #ahcd ,nourishing #ahga ,lentil1 the #abf ,lettuce1 corrective properties of the #acf ,varieties of the #aabc ,lettuces1 to dress #aabc ,leveret1 to dress a #ajcd ,liaison #dfa ,lightning1 treatment after a person has been struck by #bfgg ,linen1 attention to #bbgh ,scorched1 to restore #bbhc ,soaking #bcgf ,sorting #bcge ,liqueur ,jelly #addi ,liver1 and lemon sauce for poultry #dfb ,and parsley sauce for poultry #dfc ,complaints and spasms #bfdd ,lobster1 the #bgj ,a la mode ,franaise #bgc ,ancient mode of cooking the #bge ,celerity of the #bgc ,curry 7an entre7 #bgd ,cutlets 7an entre7 #bge ,hot #bga ,how it feeds #bgh ,local attachment of the #bgg ,patties 7an entre7 #bgg ,potted #bgh ,salad #bgb ,sauce #dfd ,shell of the #bgb ,soup #aie ,to boil #bgj ,to dress #bgf ,lumbago #bfde ,luncheon cake #agfe ,luncheons and suppers #badg-dh ,lungs1 respiration of #bdec-f ,macaroni1 as usually served with cheese course #afde-g ,manufacture of #ace1 #acja ,pudding1 sweet #acja ,soup #ace ,sweet dish of #adej ,macaroons #agdd ,mace #cga ,macedoine de fruits #addj ,mackerel1 the #bha ,baked #bgi ,boiled #bhj ,broiled #bha ,fillets of #bhb ,garum #bhc ,pickled #bhc ,to choose #bha ,weight of the #bgi ,voracity of the #bhb ,maid-of-all-work1 after breakfast #bcdd dinner #bcej-a ,bedrooms1 attention to #bceb daily work in #bcde ,before retiring to bed #bced ,breakfast1 preparation for #bcdc ,cleaning hall #bcdb ,cooking dinner #bcdf ,early morning duties #bcda ,general duties #bcdj routine #bcec ,knife-cleaning #bcea ,laying dinner-cloth #bcdg ,needlework1 time for #bcef ,waiting at table #bcdh-i ,washing #bcee ,maigre1 soup #acf ,matre d'htel #dfe butter #dfe sauce 7hot7 #dff ,maize #agba ,cobbett a cultivator of #aagd ,or ,indian wheat1 boiled #aagd ,malt wine #ahbd ,manchester pudding #acjj ,mangling and ironing #bchg-i ,mango chetney1 ,bengal recipe for making #cib ,manna kroup pudding #acjb ,qualities of #acjb ,mansfield pudding #acjc ,marble1 to clean #bccc-d ,marjoram1 species of #agc1 #dae ,marlborough pudding #acjd ,marmalade1 and vermicelli pudding #acje ,of ,apricots #aebb ,orange #aeff-g an easy way of making #aefh made with honey #aefi ,quince #aehf ,marrow1 bones #fce ,boiled #fce ,dumplings #acjf ,pudding1 boiled or baked #acjg ,mayonnaise #dfh ,measles #bedg-ei ,meat1 action of salt on #fjg ,bad #fje ,baking #ffe ,good #fjb ,in season1 ,january to ,december pp #cc-g ,modes of cooking #edj-hd ,pies1 savoury jelly for #eba ,to buy economically #gbf ,meats1 preserved #fdc ,medical memoranda #bfhi-ic ,melon1 description of the #aeei ,introduced into ,england #aaae ,uses of the #aeei ,melons #aefi ,meringues #adea ,military puddings #acjh ,milk1 and cream1 separation of #afbg to keep in hot weather #afbh ,and suckling #bdgb-ij ,excellence of #afbg ,general observations on #afjh-ad ,or cream1 substitute for #ahae ,qualities of #afbh ,soup #acg ,millet1 ,italian #agah ,pannicled #agcc ,mince pies #acaa ,minced collops #fai ,mincemeat1 to make #acji ,excellent #acaj ,lemon #abic ,mint #dfi ,sauce #dfi ,vinegar #dgj ,mistress1 after-dinner invitations #ci ,charity and benevolence1 duties of #ad ,choice of acquaintances #f ,cleanliness indispensable to health #d ,conversation1 trifling occurrences #i ,daily duties #bb-f ,departure of guests #de-f ,dessert #cg-h ,dinner announced #ce ,domestics1 engaging #ag giving characters to #bj obtaining #ah treatment of #ai yearly wages1 table of #ba ,mistress1 dress and fashion #aa of the #ac ,early rising #c ,etiquette of evening parties #dj-c the ball room #dd ,evenings at home #dh ,family dinner at home #dg ,friendships should not be hastily formed #g ,good temper1 cultivation of #aj ,guests at dinner-table #cf ,half-hour before dinner #cd ,home virtues #e ,hospitality1 excellence of #h ,household duties #a-b ,house-hunting1 locality1 aspect1 ventilation1 rent #ed ,housekeeping account-book #af ,introductions #ea ,invitations for dinner #cc ,letters of introduction #eb-c ,marketing #ae ,morning calls and visits #bg-cb ,purchasing of wearing apparel #ab ,retiring for the night #di ,mock-turtle soup #agb-c ,morello cherries1 to preserve #aefa ,moths1 preservatives against #bbhe ,muffins #agbg ,mulberries1 preserved #acfj ,mulberry1 description of the #acfj ,mullagatawny soup #agd ,mullet1 grey #bhd ,red #bhe ,muriatic acid #bfea ,mushroom1 the cultivated #dgc ,growth of the #dgf ,how to distinguish the #dgb ,ketchup #dgb ,localities of the #aabf ,nature of the #dgh ,powder #dgg ,sauce1 brown #dgd very rich and good #dgi white #dge-f ,varieties of the #aabe ,mushrooms1 baked #aabd ,broiled #aabe ,pickled #dgh ,stewed #aabg in gravy #aabh ,to dry #dgc preserve #aabf procure #aabg ,mustard #dhj ,how to mix #dhj ,indian #dhj ,tartar #dha ,mutton1 baked minced #gjc ,breast of1 boiled #gjd 7excellent way to cook a7 #gji ,broiled1 and tomato sauce #gaj ,broth1 quickly made #ahgc to make #ahgb ,carving #gei-fc ,china chilo #gab ,mutton1 chops1 broiled #gaa ,collops #gca ,curried #gac ,cutlets1 of cold #gad ,italian #gbc with mashed potatoes #gcb ,dormers #gae ,fillet of1 braised #gjg ,haricot #gaf-ah ,hashed #gai ,haunch of1 roast #gbf to carve a #gei ,hodge-podge #gbj ,irish stew #gba-b ,kidney1 broiled #gbd fried #gbe ,leg of1 boiled #gje boned and stuffed #gjf braised #gjh roast #gbg to carve a #gfj ,loin of1 to carve a #gfa roast #gbh rolled #gbi ,neck of1 boiled #gcj ragot of #gcf roast #gcg ,pie #gcc-d ,pudding #gce ,qualities of various #gjg ,saddle of1 roast #gch to carve a #gfb ,shoulder of1 roast #gci to carve a #gfc ,soup1 good #age ,nasturtium1 uses of the #dhb ,nasturtiums1 pickled #dhb ,nature and art in nursing #bdde-bdeb ,navet1 description of the #aafh ,nectar1 ,welsh #ahcj ,nectarines1 preserved #aefb ,needlework #bcbe ,negus1 to make #ahce ,nesselrode pudding #acac ,nitric acid #bfej ,normandy pippins1 stewed #aefc ,notice to quit #bgaf ,noxious trades #bgab ,noyeau cream #adeb ,homemade #ahbe ,nurse1 attention to children's dispositions #bdja ,carrying an infant #bcih ,convulsion fits #bdjf ,croup #bdjg ,dentition #bdje ,general duties of the #bdjb-d ,habits of cleanliness in children #bdjj ,hooping-cough #bdjh ,measles and scarlatina #bdaj-ab ,miss ,nightingale's remarks on children #bdad-e ,worms #bdji ,nursemaids1 upper and under #bcig ,nurse1 ,monthly1 age of #bdca ,nurse1 ,monthly1 attention to cleanliness in the patient's room #bdcc ,choice of a #bdbi ,doctor's instructions must be observed #bdcj ,general duties of the #bdcb ,infant must not be exposed to light or cold too early #bdcd ,nurse1 ,sick1 airing the bed #bdbe ,attention to food #bdbg ,bad smells must be removed #bdbb ,cleanliness1 necessity of #bdba ,diet suitable to the patient's taste #bdbh ,duties of the #bdaf ,necessity for pure air in the sick-room #bdag ,night air injurious1 a fallacy #bdbf ,opening of windows and doors #bdah-i ,patient must not be waked #bdbd ,quiet in the patient's room #bdbc ,ventilation necessary in febrile cases #bdjb ,nurse1 ,wet1 abstinence from improper food #bdaa ,age of the #bdci ,diet of the #bddb ,general remarks on the #bdce-h ,health and morality of the #bddj ,spirits1 wines1 and narcotics to be avoided #bddc ,nutmeg1 the #cgh ,nuts1 dish of #aeii hazel and filbert #aeii ,olive and olive oil #ejf ,omelet1 au ,thon #adid ,aux confitures1 or jam omelet #adfj ,bachelor's #adfb ,ham #adeg ,kidney #adeh ,plain1 sweet #adei ,souffl #adfa ,the ,cure's p4 #gec ,to make a plain #adef ,onion before the ,christian era #aci ,history of the #dhe ,origin of the #aaca ,properties of the #aacj ,sauce1 brown #dhe or ,soubise1 ,french #dhc white #dhd ,soup #ach-i ,onions1 burnt1 for gravies #aacj ,pickled #dhf-g ,spanish1 baked #aabi pickled #ebg stewed #aaca ,open jam tart #acfe ,opium and its preparations #bffb ,orange1 and cloves #aefe ,brandy #ahbf ,cream #adfc-d ,fritters #adfe ,gravy #dhc ,in ,portugal1 the #aefe ,jelly #aded ,orange1 jelly1 moulded with slices of orange #adee ,marmalade #aeff-g an easy way of making #aefh made with honey #aefi ,pudding1 baked #acad ,salad #aega ,seville #adfd ,tree1 the first in ,france #aefd ,uses of the #acad ,wine #ahbg ,oranges1 a pretty dish of #adff ,compote of #aefe ,iced #aefd ,to preserve #aegj ,ox1 the #agf ,cheek1 soup #agf stewed #fch ,feet1 or cowheel1 fried #fci ,tail1 broiled #feb soup #agg ,tails1 stewed #faj ,oxalic acid #bfeb ,oyster1 and scallop #bhh ,excellence of the ,english #bia ,fishery #bhi ,forcemeat #dhi ,ketchup #dij ,patties #bhi ,sauce #dib ,season #aig ,soup #aif-g ,the edible #bhf ,oysters1 fried #bhf in batter #bia ,pickled #dia ,scalloped #bhg ,stewed #bhh ,to keep #bij ,paint1 to remove from silk cloth #bbgf ,pan kail #adj ,panada #dbj ,pancakes1 ,french #adbe ,richer #adfh ,to make #adfg ,parsley1 and butter #dic ,fried #did ,how used by the ancients #abc1 #dic ,juice 7for colouring various dishes7 #die ,to preserve through the winter #dif ,parsnip1 description of the #ada1 #aacb ,soup #ada ,parsnips1 to boil #aacb ,partridge1 the #agh1ajci ,broiled #ajce ,hashed1 or salmi de perdrix #ajch ,pie #ajcf ,potted #ajcg ,roast #ajci ,soup #agh ,to carve a #ajeg ,paste1 almond #abbj ,common1 for family pies #abjg ,french puff1 or feuilletage #abjh ,paste1 medium puff #abjf ,soyer's recipe for puff #abji ,very good puff #abje ,pastry1 and puddings1 general observations on #aage-i ,ramakins to serve with cheese course #afej ,sandwiches #acah ,to ice or glaze #accd-e ,patties1 chicken or fowl #ibh ,fried #hif ,lobster #bbg ,oyster #bhi ,pavini cake #agga ,pea1 origin of the #aacc ,soup #add green #adb winter1 yellow #adc ,sweet and heath or wood #aace ,varieties of the #adc1 #aacd ,peas1 green #aacc la ,franaise #aacd stewed #aace ,peach1 and nectarine #aegb ,description of the #adfi ,fritters #adfi ,peaches1 compote of #aegb ,preserved in brandy #aegc ,pear #aegd ,bon ,chrtien #aegf ,pears1 l',allemande #adgj ,baked #aegd ,moulded #adga ,preserved #aege ,stewed #aegf ,pepper1 black #cfi ,long #cii ,plant1 growth of the #eaf ,white #cff ,perch1 the #bib ,boiled #bib ,fried #bic ,stewed with wine #bid ,pestle and ,mortar #dba ,petites bouches #acai ,pheasant1 the #ajda ,broiled #ajdc ,cutlets #ajdj ,height of excellence in the #ajdc ,roast #ajda ,brillat ,savarin's recipe for #ajdb ,soup #agi ,to carve a #ajei ,pickle1 an excellent #dig ,beetroot1 to #cfi ,capsicums1 to #che ,cucumbers1 to #cii ,for tongues or beef #faa ,gherkins1 to #dbh ,indian 7very superior7 #dea ,lemons1 to #def with the peel on #dee ,mixed #dga ,mushrooms1 to #dgh ,nasturtiums1 to #dhb ,onions1 to #dhf-g ,spanish1 to #ebg ,oysters1 to #dia ,red cabbage1 to #dic ,universal #ecc ,walnuts1 to #ecd ,pickles of the ,greeks and ,romans #deb ,keeping #dea ,pie1 apple1 or tart #abcc ,beef-steak #fjd ,chicken or fowl #ibi ,eel #bec ,fish and oyster #beg ,giblet #iff ,grouse #ajbd ,lark #iga ,mince #acaa ,mutton #gcc-d ,partridge #ajcf ,pigeon #ige ,pork1 raised #hce little #hcf ,poultry or game1 raised #acdj ,rabbit #iha ,sole or cod #cbb ,tench and eel #cdi ,veal #hig and ham #hih raised #acda olive #hie ,pig1 ,guinea #iig ,how roast pig was discovered #hda to silence a #hab ,novel way of recovering a stolen #hai ,sucking1 to carve a #hdb roast #hda to scald #hdj ,the learned #hdj ,pig's cheeks1 to dry #hcj ,face1 collared #hbc ,fry1 to dress #hbd ,liver #hca ,pettitocs #hcb ,pigs1 ,austrian mode of herding #gif ,english mode of hunting and ,indian sticking #hjj ,how pastured and fed formerly #hje ,pigeon1 the #igd ,barb #igf ,breeding #igd ,carrier #igd ,fantail #igf ,house or dovecot1 aspect of #igd ,jacobin #igf ,necessity of cleanliness in the #igd ,nun #ige ,owl #igf ,pie #ige ,pouter #igc ,rock #igf ,runt #ige ,to carve a #ajjc ,trumpeter #ige ,tumbler #ige ,turbit #igf ,wood or wild #ige ,pigeons1 broiled #igc ,roast #igd ,stewed #igj ,pike1 the #bic ,baked #bif ,boiled #bie ,pineapple #adgb1 #adgh ,chips #aegg ,fritters #adgb ,in ,heathendom #aegh ,preserved #aegh for present use #aegi ,pippins1 stewed1 ,normandy #aefc ,plaice1 the #bih ,fried #big ,stewed #bih ,plate-cleaning #bcag-ah ,plover1 description of the #ajdd ,to carve a #ajff dress a #ajdd ,plovers' eggs #afbf ,plum1 an excellent pudding #acbe ,cake1 common #agfh nice #agfi ,jam #aehj ,pudding1 baked #acbd ,pudding sauce #dii ,tart #acca ,plums #accj ,french1 box of #afjj stewed #aehc ,cultivation of #aehb ,origin of the names of #aehj ,preserved #aeha ,to preserve dry #aehb ,poisonous food #bffe ,mushrooms #bfff ,poisons #bfdg ,calomel #bfeh ,copper #bfei ,emetic tartar #bfef ,lead1 and its preparations #bffa ,opium and its preparations #bffb ,symptoms of having inhaled strong fumes of smelling salts #bfee swallowed #bfah alkalis #bfed arsenic #bfef corrosive sublimate #bfeg muriatic acid #bfea nitric acid #bfej oxalic acid #bfeb prussic acid #bfec sulphuric acid #bfdi ,syrup of poppies and ,godfrey's cordial #bffc ,treatment after taking henbane hemlock1 nightshade1 or foxglove #bffd ,polish tartlets #acbj ,pomatum1 an excellent #bbef ,pork1 carving #hdb ,cheese #gii ,cutlets #gif ,cutlets or chops #gig-h ,griskin of1 roast #hbg ,hashed #hja ,leg of1 boiled #hbf roast #hjj to carve a #hdd ,loin of1 roast #hbi ,pickled1 to boil #hcd ,pies #hce little1 raised #hcf ,sausages1 to make #hcg ,to pickle #hcc ,portable soup #ahj ,potato1 the #adg ,analysis of #aach ,as an article of food #aadh ,bread #aada ,fritters #adgd ,patty #accb ,properties of the #aacg ,pudding #accc ,qualities of the #aadg ,rissoles #aadg ,salad #aaed ,snow #aadh ,soup #ade-f-g ,starch #aaci ,sugar #aacf ,uses of the #aadj ,varieties of the #aadf ,potatoes1 la matre d'htel #aadd ,baked #aacf ,fried1 ,french fashion #aadb ,german way of cooking #aadc ,how to use cold #aada ,mashed #aade ,preserving #aadc ,pure de pommes de terre #aadf ,to boil #aacg in their jackets #aach new #aaci ,to steam #aadj ,potted beef #fdb-c ,chicken or fowl #icj ,ham #hae ,hare #ajbh ,partridge #ajcg ,shrimps #cab ,veal #hii ,poulet1 la ,marengo #idi ,aux cressons #ifd ,poultry1 in season1 ,january to ,december pp4 #cc-g ,pound cake #aggj ,pounded cheese #afdh ,prawn1 the #aih ,soup #aih ,prawns or shrimps1 buttered #cac ,to boil #bii ,to dress #cjj ,prescriptions1 general remarks on #behj ,blister1 an ordinary #beih ,clyster #behb ,draught #beha common black #behg ,drugs1 list of1 necessary to carry out all instructions #begi ,liniment #behc ,lotion #behd ,goulard #behe ,opodeldoc #behf ,mixtures1 aperient #behh fever #behi ,pills #beib compound iron #beia myrrh and aloes #beij ,poultice #bfjd ,abernethy's plan for making a bread-and-water #beie linseed meal #beif mustard #beig ,powders #beic ,preserved1 and dried greengages #aeec ,cherries in syrup #aebi ,damsons #aeci or any other kind of plums #aedj ,ginger #adcb ,greengages in syrup #aeed ,morello cherries #aefa ,mulberries #aefj ,nectarines #aefb ,oranges #aegj ,peaches in brandy #aegc ,pineapple #aegh ,plums #aeha ,pumpkin #aehd ,strawberries in wine #aeie whole #aeif ,preserves1 general observations on #adie1 #aejg ,primitive ages1 simplicity of the #fc-d ,prince of ,wales soup #adh ,property law #bfif-h ,prussic acid #bfec ,ptarmigan1 or white grouse #ajde ,to carve a #ajfd ,to dress a #ajde ,pudding1 ,alma #abcg ,almond1 baked #abba small #abbb ,apple1 baked1 very good #abca economical #abbi rich #abbh boiled #abcb iced #abij rich sweet #abcj ,apricot1 baked #abch ,arrowroot1 baked or boiled #abdi ,asparagus #ajhi ,aunt ,nelly's #abbd ,bachelor's #abda ,bakewell #abdb-c ,baroness #abdd ,batter1 baked #abdf with dried or fresh fruit #abdg boiled #abdh ,beefsteak and kidney #fje baked #fjj ,bread1 baked #abej boiled #abeb brown #abec ,bread1 miniature #abed very plain #abea ,bread-and-butter1 baked #abee ,cabinet1 or chancellor's #abef plain1 or boiled bread-and-butter #abeg ,canary #abeh ,carrot1 baked or boiled #abei ,christmas1 for children1 plain #acbg plum #acbh ,cold #abfb ,college #abfc ,currant1 black or red #abff boiled #abfe ,custard1 baked #abfh boiled #abfi ,damson #abga ,delhi #abgb ,empress #abgc ,exeter #abgd ,fig #abge ,staffordshire recipe #abgf ,folkestone pudding pies #abgg ,german #abgi or ,dampfnudeln #abhj ,ginger #abha ,golden #abhb ,gooseberry1 baked #abhc boiled #abhd ,half-pay #abhf ,herodotus #abhg ,hunter's #abhh ,iced #abhi ,lemon1 baked #abie-g boiled #abih plain #abii ,macaroni1 sweet #acja ,manchester #acjj ,manna kroup #acjb ,mansfield #acjc ,marlborough #acjd ,marmalade and vermicelli #acje ,marrow1 boiled or baked #acjg ,military #acjh ,monday's #acab ,mutton #gce ,nesselrode #acac ,orange1 baked #acad batter #abdi ,paradise #acbb ,pease #acbc ,plum1 an excellent #acbe baked #acbd fresh fruit #accj ,potato #accc ,pound1 plum #acbi an unrivalled #acbf ,quickly made #acff ,raisin1 baked #accf boiled #accg ,rhubarb1 boiled #acch ,rice1 baked #acdb more economical #acdc boiled with dried and fresh fruit #acde-f ,french1 or gteau de riz #aceb ground1 boiled or baked #acec iced #aced miniature #acee plain1 boiled #acdd ,roly-poly jam #abia ,royal ,coburg #abfj ,sago #acfg ,semolina1 baked #acfi ,somersetshire #acgd ,suet1 to serve with roast meat #acge ,tapioca #acgj ,treacle1 rolled #acgb ,toad-in-the-hole #fgb of cold meat #gdc ,vermicelli #acgg ,vicarage #acgh ,west ,indian #achb ,yorkshire #achd ,puddings and pastry1 directions for making #aahj1 #abjd general observations on #aage-aagi ,puits d'amour1 or puff-paste rings #acba ,pumpkin1 preserved #aehd ,punch #ahci ,to make hot #ahci ,purchasing a house #bfie-ih ,quadrupeds1 general observations on #ehe1 #eig ,quail1 description of the #ajdf ,to carve a #ajfe ,to dress a #ajdf ,queen-cakes #aggc ,quenelles tortue #ahi ,veal #dbb ,quince1 the #abcc ,jelly #aehe ,marmalade #aehf ,quin's sauce #ejj ,rabbit1 la minute #ihj ,angora #ihe ,boiled #igg ,common wild #igh ,curried #igh ,fecundity of the #iha ,fried #igi ,habitat of the #igg ,hare #ihe ,himalaya #ihe ,house #ihb ,hutch #ihc ,pie #iha ,ragot of1 or hare #ihb ,roast or baked #ihc ,soup #aha ,stewed #ihd in milk #ahgd larded #ihe ,to carve a #ajjd ,varieties of the #igi ,rabbits1 fancy #ihd ,radish1 varieties of the #aaeb ,raised pie1 of poultry or game #acdj ,pork #hce-f ,veal and ham #ahda ,raisin1 the #acbg ,raisins1 cheese #aehg ,grape #acbd ,pudding1 baked #accf boiled #accg ,ramakins1 pastry #afej ,to serve with cheese course #afdi ,raspberry1 and currant salad #aeib tart #abfg ,cream #aage ,jam #aehh ,jelly #aehi ,vinegar #ahbh ,raspberries1 red and white #abfg ,ratafias #agde ,ravigotte1 a ,french salad sauce #eja ,reading sauce #ejb ,rearing by hand #bdig-h ,rearing1 management1 and diseases of infancy and childhood #bdae-begg ,receipts #bgcj ,regency soup #ahb ,rmoulade1 or ,french salad dressing #ejc ,rent1 recovery of #bgai-bb ,rhubarb1 and orange jam #aeia ,description of #acci ,jam #aeij ,pudding1 boiled #acch ,tart #acci ,wine #ahbi ,ribbons1 or silk1 to clean #bbge ,rice1 and apples #adjj ,biscuits or cakes #agdf ,blancmange #adgf ,boiled for curries #acdg ,bread #agbj ,buttered #acdi ,cake #aggb ,casserole of1 savoury #acej sweet #acea ,croquettes #adgg ,esteemed by the ancients #acdi ,fritters #adgh ,ground #agdf boiled #acec ,iced #aced ,indian1 origin of #aej ,milk #ahge ,paddy #acdg ,pudding1 baked #acdb more economical #acdc boiled #acde plain #acdd with dried or fresh fruit #acdf ,french1 or gteau de riz #aceb ,miniature #acee ,qualities of #acdb ,snowballs #adgi ,souffl #adhj ,soup #aej-a ,to boil for curries #acdh ,varieties of #acde ,ringworm1 cure for #bffg ,alterative powders for #bffh ,rinsing #bcgi ,rissoles1 beef #dfe ,roach1 the #bdc ,roasting1 age of #fe ,memoranda in #feg ,rock biscuits #agdg ,rolls1 excellent #agbc ,fluted #acag ,hot #agbd ,meat1 or sausage #acgc ,roux1 brown1 for thickening sauces #ebe ,white1 #ebf ,rusks1 ,italian #agcc ,to make #agcd ,sage #dbg ,and onion stuffing #eja ,sago1 alimentary properties of #acfg ,how procured #aeb ,pudding #acfg ,sauce for sweet puddings #acfh ,soup #aeb ,salad1 a poetic recipe for #ejh ,boiled #aaea ,chicken #ica ,dressing #ejf-h ,french #ejc ,grouse #ajbf ,lobster #bgb ,orange #aega ,potato #aaed ,scarcity of1 in ,england #eje ,summer #aaeb ,winter #aaec ,salads #aaec ,salmi de perdrix1 or hashed partridge #ajch ,salmon1 la ,genevese #cjg ,and caper sauce #cjb ,aversion of the #cji ,boiled #cja ,collared #cjc ,crimped #cjd ,curried #cje ,cutlets #cjf ,growth of the #cje ,habitat of the #cjc ,migratory habits of the #cjb ,pickled #cjh ,potted #cji ,to carve p4 #age choose #cja cure #cjh ,tribe #cjd ,salsify1 description of #aadi ,to dress #aadi ,salt1 action of on meat #fjg ,common #djc ,fish #bcc ,meat1 ,soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in #fji ,sandwiches1 of cheese #afaa ,pastry #acah ,toast #ahgg ,victoria #adia ,sauce1 l',aurore #eaa ,a la matelote #eab ,allemande1 or ,german sauce #eji ,anchovy1 for fish #cfb ,sauce1 apple1 brown #cfd for geese or pork #cfc ,aristocratique #eaj ,arrowroot1 for puddings #acef ,asparagus #cfe ,bchamel1 or ,french white sauce #cfg maigre #cfh ,benton #cgj ,beurre noir1 or browned butter1 a ,french sauce #cgd ,bread #cga-b ,browning for #cgc ,butter1 melted #cgf-g made with milk #chj maitre d'htel #dfe thickened #cgi ,camp vinegar #cha ,caper1 for boiled mutton #chb for fish #chc a substitute for #chd ,celery1 for boiled turkey1 poultry1 c4 #chg a more simple recipe #chh ,cherry1 for sweet puddings #aceg ,chestnut1 brown #cia for turkey or fowls #cij ,chili vinegar #cic ,christopher ,north's1 for game or meat #cid ,consomm1 or white stock for #cie ,crab1 for fish #cif ,cream1 for fish or white dishes #cig ,cucumber #cih white #djj ,custard1 for sweet puddings or tart #djd ,dutch1 for fish #dje green1 or ,hollandaise verte #djf ,egg1 for salt fish #dji ,epicurean #daj ,espagnole1 or brown ,spanish #daa ,fennel1 for mackerel #dab ,fish #dac ,for boiled puddings #ead steaks #eaf wildfowl #eai ,genevese1 for salmon1 trout1 c4 #dbg ,gooseberry1 for boiled mackerel #dbi ,green1 for green geese or ducklings #dca ,horseradish #ddg ,hot spice #ebd ,indian chetney #deb ,italian1 brown #dec white #ded ,leamington #dei ,lemon1 for boiled fowls #deg for fowls and fricassees1 white #deh for sweet puddings #aceh ,liaison of eggs for thickening #dfa ,liver and lemon1 for poultry #dfb parsley #dfc ,lobster #dfd ,maigre matre d'htel 7hot7 #dfg ,matre d'htel 7hot7 #dff ,mango chetney 7,bengal recipe7 #cib ,mayonnaise #dfh ,melted butter #cgf-h ,mint #dfi ,mushroom1 a very rich and good #dgi brown #dgd ketchup #dgb white #dge-f ,onion1 brown #dhe ,french1 or ,soubise #dhc white #dhd ,oyster #dib ,parsley and butter #dic ,piquante #eac ,plum-pudding #dii ,quin's 7an excellent fish-sauce7 #ejj ,ravigotte #eja ,reading #ejb ,robert #eae ,sago1 for sweet puddings #acfh ,shrimp #ebb ,soyer's1 for plum-puddings #acei ,store1 or ,cherokee #ebh ,sweet1 for puddings #acfj venison #eah ,thickening for #ebe-f ,tomato #ebi-cb ,tourne #eag ,vanilla custard #acfa ,wine1 excellent for puddings #acfb for puddings #acfd or brandy #acfc white #ecg-i ,sauces and gravies1 in the ,middle ,ages #dcc ,manufacture of #eaj ,pickles1 gravies1 and forcemeats1 remarks on #ced1 #cfa ,saucer-cakes1 for tea #aggd ,sausage1 meat cakes #hci ,meat stuffing #ebj ,or meat rolls #acgc ,sausages1 beef #ffb ,pork1 fried #hch to make #hcg ,veal #ijd ,savory #ddf ,savoury jelly for meat pies #eba ,savoy1 the #adj ,biscuits or cakes #agdh ,cake #aghb ,scarlatina1 or scarlet fever #befj-c ,scotch1 collops #hgj white #hga ,eggs #afff ,rarebit1 or toasted cheese #afea ,shortbread #aghj ,woodcock #afec ,scrap cakes #aggi ,scratches #bffi ,sea-bream1 the #caj baked #caj ,mr4 ,yarrell's recipe #caj ,kale1 description of #aaej ,to boil #aaej ,seed1 biscuits #agdi ,cake1 common #agge very good #aggf ,semolina1 pudding1 baked #acfi ,qualities of #aec ,soup #aec ,uses of #acfi ,shad1 the #caa ,to dress #caa ,shalot1 or ,eschalot #daj ,sheep1 the #age ,general observations on the #fgh1 #fig ,poets on the #gcj ,sheep's brains1 en matelote #gdj ,feet1 or trotters #gda ,head1 to dress #gdb singed #gdb ,shepherd1 the ,ettrick #gci ,the ,good #gje ,shepherds and their flocks #gaj ,sherry #adaf ,pale #adbf ,shortbread1 ,scotch #aghj ,shrimp1 the #cac ,sauce #ebb ,shrimps1 or prawns1 buttered #cac to boil #bii ,potted #cab ,sick-rooms1 caution in visiting #bfib ,sirloin1 origin of the word #fei ,skate1 the #cae ,boiled #cad ,crimped #cae ,small1 fried #cag ,species of #cag ,to choose #cae ,with caper sauce 7 la ,franaise7 #caf ,smelt1 the #cai ,odour of the #cah ,smelts1 to bake #cah ,to fry #cai ,snipe1 description of the #ajdg ,snipes1 to carve #ajfj ,to dress #ajdg ,snow cake #aggg-h ,eggs1 or oeufs la neige #adhb ,snowballs1 apple #abce ,rice #adgi ,soda1 biscuits #agea ,bread #agbb ,cake #agha ,carbonate of #agfe ,sole1 the #cbj ,flavour of the #cbd ,or cod pie #cbb ,soles1 a favourite dish of the ancient ,greeks #cbc ,baked #cbj ,boiled #cba or fried1 to carve p4 #age ,filleted1 l',italienne #cbd ,fricasseed #cbe ,fried #cbg filleted #cbf ,how caught #cbe ,to choose #cbj ,with cream sauce #cbc mushrooms #cbh ,sorrel #aca ,qualities of #dca ,souffl1 apple #adjb ,chocolate #adbg ,omelette #adfa ,rice #adhj ,to make a #adha ,souffls1 general observations on #achh ,soup1 la cantatrice #aai ,crecy #abf ,flamande #abi-cj ,julienne #aca ,reine #ahc-d ,solferino #aed ,almond #aaj ,apple #aaa ,artichoke1 ,jerusalem #aab ,asparagus #aac-ad ,baked #aae ,barley #aaf ,bread #aag ,brilla #aff ,broth and bouillon1 general remarks on #ia-e ,cabbage #aah ,calf's head #afg ,carrot #abj-a ,celery #abb ,chantilly #abc ,chemistry and economy of making #if1 #ajc ,chestnut1 ,spanish #abd ,cock-a ,leekie #acd ,cocoa-nut #abe ,crayfish #aic ,cucumber #abg ,eel #aid ,egg #abh ,family1 a good #aij ,fish1 stock #aib ,general directions for making #hh ,giblet #afh ,gravy #afi ,hare #agj ,hessian #aga ,hodge-podge #aia ,in season1 ,january to ,december pp4 #eg1 #ajd ,kale brose #acb ,leek #acc ,lobster #aie ,macaroni #ace ,maigre #acf ,making1 the chemistry of #if-ajc ,milk #acg ,mock-turtle #agb-c ,mutton1 good #age ,ox-cheek #agf ,ox-tail #agg ,oyster #aif-g ,pan kail #adj ,parsnip #ada ,partridge #agh ,pea1 green #add inexpensive #adb winter1 yellow #adc ,pheasant #agi ,portable #ahj ,potage printanier #adi ,potato #ade-g ,prawn #aih ,prince of ,wales #adh ,rabbit #aha ,regency #ahb ,rice #aej-a ,sago #aeb ,seasonings for #ij ,semolina #aec ,spanish chestnut #abd ,spinach #aee ,spring #adi ,stew #ahf-g of salt meat #ahe ,tapioca #aef ,turkey #ahh ,turnip #aeg ,turtle #ahi ,useful for benevolent purposes #afe ,vegetable #aei-afa marrow #aeh ,vermicelli #afb-c ,white #afd ,sow1 ,berkshire #gha ,chinese #ghe ,cumberland #ghd ,essex #ghb ,price of1 in ,africa #haf ,yorkshire #ghc ,soy #dig ,soyer's recipe for goose stuffing #eje ,spanish onions pickled #ebg ,spiced beef #ffe ,spinach1 description of #aaef ,dressed with cream1 la ,franaise #aaef ,french mode of dressing #aaeg ,green1 for colouring dishes #ebc ,soup #aee ,to boil1 ,english mode #aaee ,varieties of #aee1 #aaee ,sponge cake #aghc ,small1 to make #aghe ,lemon #addh ,sprains #bfga ,sprat1 the #cca ,sprats #cbi ,dried #cca ,fried in batter #ccj ,sprouts #ajif ,boiled1 ,brussels #ajif ,to boil young greens1 or #ajig ,stables and coach-house #bbjd ,heat of #bbje ,stains of syrup1 or preserved fruits1 to remove #bbgc ,stalls #bbjg ,stammering #bfgc ,cure for #bfgb ,stamp duties #bgdb ,starch1 to make #bcia-b ,starching #bcij ,stew soup #ahe-g ,stilton cheese #afci ,stock1 browning for #ajh ,stock1 cow-heel #adab ,economical #ajf ,for gravies1 general #dcb ,for jelly #adaa ,medium #aje ,rich strong #ajd ,to clarify #aji ,white #ajg ,stomach1 digestion #bdeg-i ,stone cream #adhc ,store sauce1 or ,cherokee #ebh ,strawberry1 jam #aeid ,jelly #adhd ,name of1 among the ,greeks #acha ,origin of the name #acfe ,strawberries1 and cream #aeic ,dish of #afjf ,to preserve whole #aeif in wine #aeie ,stuffing1 for geese1 ducks1 pork1 c #ejd ,sausage meat for turkey #ebj ,soyer's recipe for #eje ,sturgeon1 the #ccb ,baked #ccb ,estimate of1 by the ancients #ccc ,roast #ccc ,stye in the eye #bfcj ,substitute for milk and cream #ahae ,sucking-pig1 to carve #hdb ,to roast #hda scald #hdj ,suffocation1 apparent #bfgd ,carbonic acid gas1 choke-damp of mines #bfge ,sugar1 and beetroot #abaa ,cane #accd ,french #abaa ,icing for cakes #agcf ,introduction of #accf ,potato #aacf ,qualities of #abab ,to boil to caramel #aead ,sulphuric acid #bfdi ,sultana grape #acbf ,suppers #baci-da ,sweetbreads1 baked #ijf ,fried #ijg ,stewed #ijh ,sweet dishes1 general observations on #ache-h ,swine1 flesh of1 in hot climates #hce ,swineherds of antiquity #hcf ,saxon #hch ,swiss cream #adhe ,syllabub1 to make #adhf ,whipped #adic ,syrup1 for compotes1 to make #aeab ,lemon #ahbb ,of poppies #bffc ,to clarify #aeac ,tails1 strange #feb ,tapioca pudding #acgj ,soup #aef ,wholesomeness of #aef1 #acgj ,tart1 apple creamed #abcd ,apricot #abci ,barberry1 #abde ,cherry #abfa ,damson #abgj ,gooseberry #abhe ,plum #acca ,raspberry and currant #abfg ,rhubarb #acci ,strawberry1 or any other kind of preserve1 open #acfe ,tartlets #acga ,polish #acbj ,tarragon #ejc ,taxes #bgad ,tea #ahad ,and coffee #ahac ,miss ,nightingale's opinion on the use of #ahfd ,to make #ahad ,teacakes #aghf ,to toast #aghg ,teal1 to carve #ajfg ,to roast a #ajdh ,teething #beaj-ah ,tenancy1 by sufferance #bgja ,general remarks on #bgag ,tench1 the #ccd ,and eel-pie #cdi ,matelote of #ccd ,singular quality in the #cce ,stewed with wine #cce ,terms used in cookery1 ,french #hg ,thrush and its treatment #bebc-cg ,thyme #aff ,tipsy-cake #adhg an easy way of making #adhh ,toad-in-the-hole #fgb of cold meat #gdc ,toast1 and water1 to make #ahgf ,sandwiches #ahgg ,tea-cakes1 to #aghg ,to make dry #agbe hot buttered #agbf ,toffee1 ,everton1 to make #aeig ,tomato1 analysis of the #aaei ,extended cultivation of the #aafj ,immense importance in cookery #aaec ,sauce #ebi for keeping #ecj-b ,stewed #aaei-fj ,uses of the #fbi1 #ebh1 #bfij ,tomatoes1 baked1 excellent #aaeh ,tongue1 boiled #fgc ,pickle for #fda ,to cure #fgd-e ,to pickle and dress to eat cold #fgf ,tongues of animals #fge ,toothache1 cure for the #bfgh-i ,tourte apple or cake #abcf ,treacle1 or molasses1 description of #abbd ,pudding1 rolled #acgb ,trifle1 apple #adjd ,gooseberry #adcd ,indian #adcf ,to make a #adhi ,tripe1 to dress #fgg ,trout1 the #ccf ,stewed #ccf ,truffle1 the common #aafa ,impossibility of regular culture of the #aafb ,uses of the #aafd ,truffles1 l' ,italienne #aafd ,au naturel #aafa ,italian mode of dressing #aafc ,to dress with champagne #aafb ,where found #aafc ,turbot1 the #ccc la crme #cda ,ancient ,romans' estimate of the #cdj ,au gratin #cdb ,boiled #ccg ,fillet of1 baked #cci a l',italienne #cdj ,garnish for1 or other large fish #cch ,to carve a p4 #age ,to choose #cch ,turkey1 boiled #ihf ,croquettes of #ihg ,difficult to rear the #ahh ,disposition of the #ihh ,english #iij ,feathers of the #iia ,fricasseed #ihh ,habits of the #ihh ,hashed #ihi ,hunting #ihi ,native of ,america #ihf ,or fowl1 to bone without opening #iib-d ,poults1 roast #iia ,roast #iij ,stuffing for #ebj ,soup #ahh ,to carve a roast #ajje ,wild #ihg ,turnip greens boiled #aafi ,or the ,french navet #aafh ,qualities of the #aafg ,soup #aeg ,uses of the #aafe ,whence introduced #aeg ,turnips1 boiled #aafe ,german mode of cooking #aafg ,in white sauce #aafh ,mashed #aaff ,turnovers1 fruit #abgh ,turtle1 mock #agb-c ,soup1 cost of #ahi ,the green #ahi ,valet1 cleaning clothes #bbci ,duties of the #bbcd-h1 #bbdb ,polish for boots #bbdj-a ,vanilla cream #adij ,custard sauce #acfa ,vanille or ,vanilla #adij ,veal1 a la bourgeoise #hfi ,and ham pie #hih ,baked #hef ,breast of1 roast #heg stewed and peas #heh to carve #iab ,cake #hei ,collops #hgi ,scotch #hgj ,veal1 collops1 ,scotch1 white #hga ,colour of #hfa ,curried #hfe ,cutlets #hff la ,maintenon #hfh broiled #hfg ,dinner1 a very #hig ,fillet of1 au ,bchamel #hhc roast #hgb stewed #hgc to carve a #iad ,frenchman's opinion of #iaa ,fricandeau of #hgd-e ,knuckle of1 ragot #hhd stewed #hhe to carve a #iae ,loin of au ,daube #hhh au ,bchamel #hhg roast #hhf to carve #iaf ,manner of cutting up #hed ,minced #hia-hib and macaroni #hia ,neck of1 braised #hic roast #hid ,olive pie #hie ,patties1 fried #hif ,pie #hig ,potted #hii ,quenelles #dbb ,ragot of1 cold #ijj ,rissoles #ija ,rolls #ijb ,sausages #ijd ,season and choice of #ijh ,shoulder of #ijc ,stewed #ije tendons de veau #iji-aj ,tte de veau en tortue #iaa ,vegetable1 a variety of the goard #aeh ,fried #aaga ,marrow1 a tropical plant #aaga boiled #aagj in white sauce #aagc ,soup #aeh1 #aei-fa ,vegetables1 acetarious #aaea ,and herbs1 various #hi ,cut for soups #aagb ,general observations on #ajfi1 #ajgi ,reduced to pure #aaff ,in season1 ,january to ,december pp4 #cc-g ,venison #ajdi ,antiquity of1 as food #ddd ,hashed #ajej ,haunch of1 roast #ajdi ,sauce for #eah ,stewed #ajea ,the new #ajea ,to carve #ajfa ,ventilation1 necessity of1 in rooms lighted with gas #bfic of stables #bbjf ,vermicelli #afb1 #acgg ,pudding #acgg ,soup #afb-c ,vicarage pudding #acgh ,victoria sandwiches #adia ,vinegar1 camp4 #cha ,cayenne #che ,celery #chi ,chili #cic ,cucumber #dja ,gooseberry #ahbj ,horseradish #dah ,mint #dgj ,raspberry #ahbh ,use of1 by the ,romans #dea ,vol-au-vent1 an entre #acgi ,of fresh strawberries with whipped cream #acha ,sweet1 with fresh fruit #achj ,wafers1 ,geneva #adca ,walnut1 the #ecf ,ketchup #ece-f ,walnuts1 pickled #ecd ,properties of the #aeii ,to have fresh throughout the season #afjg ,warts #bfhj ,washing #bcgg-h ,coloured muslins1 c4 #bchj ,flannels #bcha ,greasy cloths #bchb ,satin and silk ribbons #bchd ,silks #bche ,water1 rate #bgae ,souchy #ceb-c ,supply of in ,rome #abaf ,warm #bfia ,what the ancients thought of #abad ,wax1 to remove #bbgb ,welsh1 nectar #ahcj ,rarebit1 or toasted cheese #afeb ,west-,indian pudding #achb ,wheat1 diseases of #aggi ,egyptian or mummy #aghc ,polish and ,pomeranian #agbb ,red varieties of #agai ,wheatear1 the #iif ,wheatears1 to dress #iif ,whipped1 cream #adib ,syllabubs #adic ,whisky cordial #ahdj ,whitebait #cdh ,to dress #cdh ,whiting1 the #cdc ,au gratin1 or baked #cdf ,aux fines herbes #cdg ,buckhorn #cdd ,boiled #cdc ,broiled #cdd ,fried #cde ,pout and pollack #cdg ,to carve a p4 #agf choose #cdc ,whitlow1 to cure a #bfha ,widgeon1 to carve a #ajfh ,roast #ajeb ,will1 attestation of a #bgeg ,advice in making a #bgef ,witnesses to a #bgdf1 #bgeh ,wills #bgcb-ch ,form of #bgdj-a ,wine1 cowslip #ahag ,elder #ahah ,ginger #ahai ,gooseberry1 effervescing #ahba ,lemon #ahbc ,malt #ahbd ,orange #ahbg ,rhubarb #ahbi ,to mull #ahch ,wire-basket #did ,witnesses #bgci-ea ,woodcock1 description of the #ajec ,scotch #afec ,to carve a #ajfb ,woodcock1 to roast a #ajec ,woollen manufactures #gcg ,woollens #bbhd ,worms #bdji ,wounds #bfhb ,incised1 or cuts #bfhc1 #bfhf ,lacerated or torn #bfhd1 #bfhg ,punctured or penetrating #bfhe1 #bfhh ,yeast #achc ,cake1 nice #aghh ,dumplings #achc ,kirkleatham #agag ,to make1 for bread #agaf ,yorkshire pudding #achd ,,engravings4 ,almond and blossom #aaj ,puddings #abbb ,almonds and raisins #aeih ,anchovy #bbf ,apple1 and blossom #abbf ,compote of #aeae ,jelly stuck with almonds #acie ,apples1 dish of #aeih ,arrowroot #chg ,artichoke1 cardoon #ajhj ,jerusalem #ajhd ,artichokes #ajhj ,asparagus #aad ,on toast #ajhg ,tongs #ajhg ,bacon1 boiled #hjd ,for larding1 and needles #hbh ,bain ,marie #dcj ,bantams1 black #ici ,feather-legged #ieh ,barbel #bbi ,barberry #abde ,barley #aaf ,basil #dag ,basin1 pudding #abjj ,basket1 wire #did ,bay1 the #eab ,bean1 broad #ajib ,french #aaea ,haricot #aabj ,scarlet runner #ajij ,beef1 aitchbone of #fgg ,brisket of1 to carve a #fgg ,collared #fag ,ribs of1 to carve a #fgg ,round of1 to carve a #fgg ,beef1 side of1 showing the several joints #eie ,sirloin of #fei to carve a #fgg ,steak pie #fjd ,tongue #fge to carve a #fgg ,beetroot #ajid ,birds #iag ,blackcock #ajai ,roast #ajai to carve a #ajed ,blacking-brush box #bcdb ,blancmange #adji ,mould for #adjh1 #addb ,boar1 ,westphalian #ghg ,bread1 c4 #afeh ,loaf of1 cottage #agah ,tin #agah ,brill1 the #bcj ,brocoli #ajie ,boiled #ajie ,broom1 carpet #bbic ,long hair #bcjf ,brush1 banister #bcjb ,cornice #bcbg ,crumb #bcba ,dusting #bcbg ,furniture #bcaj ,plate #bcag ,scrubbing #bcjf ,staircase #bcjb ,stove #bbid ,buns #agca ,butler's tray and stand #bcae ,butter1 dish #afcb ,dish of1 rolled #afcd ,cabbage1 seeding #aah ,cake-moulds #agef1agfa1aggb ,calf1 side of1 showing the several joints #hed ,calf's-head #hgg ,half a #hgg ,to carve a #iac ,calves #hde ,sweetbreads of #ijf ,caper1 the #chc ,capercalzie1 the #ajbf ,capsicum1 the #cfb ,carp1 the #bdb ,carpet brooms #bbic ,carrots #aajj ,cauliflower1 the #aajd ,boiled #aajd ,celery #dda ,in glass #aajg ,char1 the #bdc ,charlotte aux pommes #adah ,cheese glass #afdj ,hot-water dish for #afea ,stilton #afci ,cherry #abfa ,chervil #aaea ,chestnut #abd ,chocolate1 box of #aeih ,milk #ahjg ,christmas pudding1 c4 #aage ,chub1 the #bdc ,cinnamon #ebd ,citron1 the #adcf ,claret-cup #ahca ,clove1 the #cfg ,coal1 sections of #gc ,cocoa-bean #ahae ,nut and blossom #abe palm #abe ,cod1 the #bca ,cod's head and shoulders1 to carve #agd ,coffee #ahaa ,colander1 ancient #fh ,modern #fh ,coriander #agd ,cork1 with wooden top #ddf ,cow and bull1 ,alderney #eib ,galloway #eic ,long-horn #eia ,short-horn #eij ,crab1 the #bde ,crayfish #aic ,cream-mould #adcj ,crumpets #agbh ,cucumber1 the #djb1aaaa ,slice #aaeb ,sliced #aaaa ,currants #abff ,zante #abfd ,custards1 in glasses #adbc ,cygnet #iih ,dace1 the #bdc ,damson1 the #abgj ,deer1 the #ddd ,eland1 bull and cow #ajea ,fallow1 buck and doe #ajej ,roebuck #ajea ,the stag and hind #ajea ,dessert #adie ,dishes #aeih ,dish1 baking #eea ,pie #aaij ,sussex pudding #fie ,dripping-pan1 ancient #fh ,modern #fh ,and basting-ladle #ehj ,duck1 ,aylesbury #ice ,bowbill #icf ,buenos ,ayres #icc ,call #icg ,roast #icd to carve a #iii ,rouen #icd ,wild #ajbb roast #ajbb to carve a #ajee ,eel1 the #bdi ,egg poacher1 tin #affc ,stand for breakfast-table #afef ,eggs1 basket of #affg ,comparative sizes of #affe ,fried on bacon #afei ,poached1 on toast #affc ,elder-berries #ahah ,endive #afi ,ewe1 heath #fij ,leicester #fhb ,romney-,marsh #fia ,south-,down #fhg ,fennel #dab ,figs1 compote of #aeda ,fish #aii ,flounders #bei ,flowers and fruit #fa1 #ajc1 #ehd1 #ibe ,fowl1 black bantams #ici ,black ,spanish #ifb ,boiled #ich to carve a #ajjj ,cochin-,china #idb ,dorking #idj ,feather-legged bantams #ieh ,game #ich ,guinea #igj ,pencilled ,hamburgs #ife ,roast #ieb to carve a #ajja ,sebright bantams #ifa ,spangled ,polands #ida ,speckled ,hamburgs #iei ,sultans #ifc ,fritter mould1 star #adgc ,scroll #adgd ,fruit1 dish of1 mixed #aeih ,dish of1 mixed summer #aeih ,game #ajjf ,garlic #cib ,gherkins #dbh ,ginger #djg ,gingerbread #agfj ,glass measure1 graduated #gg ,goose1 ,emden #ifh ,roast #ajjb to carve a #ajjb ,toulouse #ifi ,gooseberry #dbi ,grape1 raisin #acbd ,sultana #acbf ,gridiron1 ancient #fh ,modern #fh ,revolving #efi ,grouse1 red #ajbe ,roast #ajbe to carve a #ajeh ,gudgeon1 the #bfa ,gurnet1 the #bfb ,haddock1 the #bfc ,ham1 boiled #haa ,to carve #hdc ,hare1 the common #agj1 #ajbg ,roast #ajbg to carve a #ajef ,herring1 the #bfh ,horseradish #ddg ,hotplate #efh ,housemaid's box #bbid ,ice-pail and spattle #abij ,ices1 dish of #aeef ,jack-bottle #ehj ,jam-pot #aecb ,jar-potting #fdb ,jellies1 c #ache ,jelly1 bag #adaa ,mould #adaa1 #adaf oval #addi ,moulded with cherries #addj ,of two colours #adda ,open with whipped cream #adec ,john ,dory #bdh ,kettle1 glaze #dcj ,fish #bbe ,gravy #dcb ,kidneys #gbd ,knife-cleaning machine #eabc ,lamb1 fore-quarter of #gej to carve a #gfd ,leg of #geb ,loin of #gec ,ribs of #ged ,saddle of #ged ,side of #gja ,lamprey1 the #bef ,landrail1 the #ajcc ,leaf in puff paste #abde ,pastry #adib ,leeks #acd ,lemon1 the #dje1 #abif ,cream mould #addc ,dumplings #abid ,lentil1 the #abf ,lettuce1 the #acf ,lobster1 the #bgj ,macaroni #ace ,macaroons #agdd ,mace #cga ,mackerel1 the #bha ,maize1 ear of #agba ,plant #agba ,marjoram #dae ,marrow-bones #fce ,milking cow #afjh ,millet1 ,italian #agah ,panicled #agcc ,mince pies #acaa ,mint #dfi ,mould1 baked pudding or cake #acbi ,blancmange #adjh1 #addb ,boiled pudding #aaif-h ,cake #agef1 #agfd1 #aggb ,cream #adcj ,for ,christmas plum-pudding #acbh ,for an open tart #acfe ,iced pudding #abhi ,jelly #adaa1 #adaf oval #addi ,lemon cream #addc ,open #aded1 #adfc ,raised pie1 closed and open #aaij ,raspberry cream #adge ,vanilla cream #adij ,muffins #agbg ,mulberry1 the #aefj ,mullet1 grey #bhd ,striped red #bhe ,mushroom1 the #dgc ,mushrooms #aabe ,broiled #aabe ,mustard #dej ,mutton1 cutlets #gcb ,haunch of #gbf to carve a #gei ,leg of #gbg to carve a #gfj ,loin of #gbh to carve a #gfa ,neck of #gcg ,saddle of #gch to carve a #gfb ,side of1 showing the several joints #fie ,shoulder of #gci to carve a #gfc ,nasturtiums #dhb ,nutmeg1 the #cgh ,nuts1 dish of #aeih ,olive1 the #ejf ,omelet #adef ,pan #adeh ,onion1 the #aci ,orange1 the #acad ,oranges1 compote of #aefe ,oyster1 edible #bhf ,pail1 house #bcbg ,pancakes #adfg ,parsley #dic ,parsnip1 the #aacb ,partridge1 the #ajci ,roast #ajci to carve a #ajeg ,baste1 board and rolling-pin #aahf ,cutter and corner-cutter #aahi ,ornamental cutter #aahi ,pincers and jagger #aahf ,patty-pans1 plain and fluted #aaij ,pea1 the #adc ,peach1 the #adfi ,pear1 bon ,chrtien #aegf ,pears1 stewed #aegf ,peas1 green #aace ,pepper1 black #cfi ,long #cii ,perch1 the #bib ,pestle and ,mortar #dba ,pheasant1 the #ajda ,roast #ajda to carve a #ajei ,pickle1 ,indian #eea ,pie1 raised #acdj ,pig1 ,guinea #iig ,roast1 sucking #hda to carve a #hdb ,pig's face #hbc ,pigs #gfe ,pigeon1 barb #igf ,blue rock #igf ,carrier #igd ,fantail #igf ,jacobin #igf ,nun #ige ,owl #igf ,pouter #igc ,roast #igd ,runt #ige ,to carve a #ajjc ,trumpeter #ige ,tumbler #ige ,turbit #igf ,wood #ige ,pike1 the #bie ,pimento #dch ,plaice1 the #bih ,plover1 the #ajdd ,plum1 the #accj ,pork1 fore loin of #hbi ,griskin of #hbg ,hind loin of #hbi ,leg of1 to carve a #hdd roast #hjj ,side of1 showing joints #gie ,spare rib of #hbg ,pot1 boiling #efg ,potato1 the #adg ,pasty pan #accc ,rissoles #aadg ,sweet #aadf ,potatoes1 baked1 served in napkin #aacf ,pound cake #aggj ,prawn1 the #aih ,ptarmigan1 or white grouse #ajde ,pudding1 boiled fruit #abhd ,cabinet #abhf ,punch-bowl and ladle #ahci ,quadrupeds #ehe ,quail1 the #ajdf ,quern1 or grinding-mill #aag ,quince1 the #abcc ,rabbit1 ,angora #ihc ,boiled #igg to carve a #ajjd ,hare1 the #ihe ,himalaya #ihe ,lop-eared #ihd ,roast #ihc to carve a #ajjd ,wild #igh ,radish1 long #aaeb ,turnip #aaeb ,raisin1 grape #acbd ,ram1 heath #fhi ,leicester #fhh ,romney-,marsh and ewe #fia ,south-down and ewe #fhg ,range1 modern #fe ,raspberry1 the #abfg ,cream mould #adge ,ratafias #agde ,rhubarb #acci ,rice1 casserole of #acej ,ears of #aej ,roach1 the #bdc ,rolls #agbc ,rusks #agcd ,sage #dbg ,sago palm #aeb ,salad1 in bowl #aaeb ,salmon1 the #cjd ,to carve a p4 #age ,salt-mine at ,northwich #djc ,saucepan1 ancient #fh ,modern #fh ,sauce tureen1 boat1 c4 #ced ,sausages1 fried #hch ,saut-pan #ega ,ancient #fh ,modern #fh ,scales1 ancient and modern #gj ,screen1 meat #ehb ,sea-bream1 the #caj ,sea-kale #aaej ,boiled #aaej ,shad1 the #caa ,shalot1 the #daj ,sheep #fgh ,heath ram #fhi ewe #fij ,romney-,marsh ram and ewe #fia ,south-,down ram and ewe #fhg ,shortbread #aghj ,shrimp1 the #cac ,skate1 thornback #cae ,snipe1 the #ajdg ,roast #ajdg to carve a #ajfj ,sole1 the #cbj ,sorrel #dca ,souffl pan #adha ,sow1 and pigs #gfe ,berkshire #gha ,chinese #ghe ,cumberland #ghd ,essex #ghb ,yorkshire #ghc ,spinach #aee ,garnished with crotons #aaee ,sponge cake #aghc ,sprat1 the #cca ,sprouts1 ,brussels #ajih ,stewpan #efg ,stock-pot1 ancient #ff ,bronze #ff ,modern #ff ,stove1 gas #ege ,family kitchener #fe ,leamington #fe1 #edj ,pompeiian #fe ,strawberries1 dish of #aeih ,sturgeon1 the #ccb ,sugar-cane1 the #acce ,sultana grape1 the #acbf ,swans #ed ,tarragon #ejc ,tart1 open #acfe ,open mould for a #acfe ,plum #acca ,tartlets1 dish of #acga ,tazza and carrot leaves #aba ,tea #ahad ,teacakes #aghg ,tench1 the #ccd ,thyme1 lemon #deh ,tipsy cake #adhg ,tomato1 the #ebi ,tomatoes1 stewed #aaei ,trifle #adhi ,trout1 the #ccf ,truffles #aafa ,turbot1 the #cch ,kettle #cch ,to carve a #agf ,tureen1 soup #hh ,turkey1 boiled #ihf ,roast #iij to carve a #ajje ,turnip #aeg ,turnips #aafe ,turret on old ,abbey kitchen #fb ,turtle1 the #ahi ,urns1 ,loysell's hydrostatic #ahaj ,utensils for cooking1 ancient and modern #ff-h ,vanilla cream mould #adij ,veal1 breast of #heg to carve a #iab ,cutlets #hff ,fillet of #hgb to carve a #iad ,knuckle of #hhe to carve a #iae ,loin of #hhe to carve a #iaf ,vegetable1 cutter #aagc ,strips of #aca ,vegetable marrow #aeh ,in white sauce #aagc ,on toast #aagj ,vegetables #ajfi ,cellular development of #ajge ,siliceous cuticles of #ajge ,venison1 haunch of #ajfa roast #ajdi to carve a #ajfa ,vermicelli #afb ,vessels for beverages #aghi ,vol-au-vent #acgi ,small #acgi ,walnut1 the #ecf ,wheat #aggi ,egyptian1 or mummy #aghc ,polish #agbb ,red winter #agai ,whitebait #cdh ,whiting1 the #cdc ,window and flowers #ge ,wirebasket #did ,woodcock1 the #ajec ,roast #ajec ,scotch #afec ,to carve a #ajfb ,yorkshire pudding #achd ,,coloured ,,plates4 ,apples in custard ,beef1 round of1 boiled ,roast sirloin of ,calf's head1 boiled ,charlotte aux pommes ,cod's head and shoulders ,crab1 dressed ,duck1 wild ,ducks1 couple of1 roast ,eggs1 poached1 and spinach ,fowl1 boiled with cauliflower ,roast1 with watercresses ,fruits1 centre dish of various ,goose1 roast ,grouse ,ham1 cold glazed ,hare1 roast ,jelly1 two colours of ,lobsters1 dressed ,mackerel1 boiled ,mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes ,haunch of roast ,saddle of roast ,mutton1 shoulder of roast ,oysters1 scalloped ,partridge ,pheasant ,pie1 raised ,pig1 sucking1 roast or baked ,pigeon ,plum-pudding1 ,christmas1 in mould ,rabbit1 boiled ,or fowl1 curried ,raspberry cream ,rissoles ,salmon1 boiled ,snipe ,soles1 dish of filleted ,spinach and poached eggs ,strawberries1 au naturel1 in ornamental flower-pot ,tongue1 cold boiled ,trifle ,turbot1 or brill1 boiled ,turkey1 roast ,veal1 fricandeau of ,vol-au-vent ,whiting1 dish of1 fried ,woodcock ,,the ,,book ,,of ,,household ,,management4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,mistress4 ,strength1 and honour are her clothing2 and she shall rejoice in time to come4 ,she openeth her mouth with wisdom2 and in her tongue is the law of kindness4 ,she looketh well to the ways of her household2 and eateth not the bread of idleness4 ,her children arise up1 and call her blessed2 her husband also1 and he praiseth her4--,proverbs1 xxxi4 #be-bh4 ,i4 ,,as ,,with ,,the ,,commander ,,of ,,an ,,army1 or the leader of any enterprise1 so is it with the mistress of a house4 ,her spirit will be seen through the whole establishment2 and just in proportion as she performs her duties intelligently and thoroughly1 so will her domestics follow in her path4 ,of all those acquirements1 which more particularly belong to the feminine character1 there are none which take a higher rank1 in our estimation1 than such as enter into a knowledge of household duties2 for on these are perpetually dependent the happiness1 comfort1 and well-being of a family4 ,in this opinion we are borne out by the author of ,the ,vicar of ,wakefield1 who says3 ,the modest virgin1 the prudent wife1 and the careful matron1 are much more serviceable in life than petticoated philosophers1 blustering heroines1 or virago queens4 ,she who makes her husband and her children happy1 who reclaims the one from vice and trains up the other to virtue1 is a much greater character than ladies described in romances1 whose whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts from their quiver1 or their eyes4 #b4 ,,pursuing ,,this ,,picture1 we may add1 that to be a good housewife does not necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusing recreation2 and we think it the more necessary to express this1 as the performance of the duties of a mistress may1 to some minds1 perhaps seem to be incompatible with the enjoyment of life4 ,let us1 however1 now proceed to describe some of those home qualities and virtues which are necessary to the proper management of a ,household1 and then point out the plan which may be the most profitably pursued for the daily regulation of its affairs4 #c4 ,,early ,,rising ,,is ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,most ,,essential ,,qualities which enter into good ,household ,management1 as it is not only the parent of health1 but of innumerable other advantages4 ,indeed1 when a mistress is an early riser1 it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and well-managed4 ,on the contrary1 if she remain in bed till a late hour1 then the domestics1 who1 as we have before observed1 invariably partake somewhat of their mistress's character1 will surely become sluggards4 ,to self-indulgence all are more or less disposed1 and it is not to be expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of houses4 ,the great ,lord ,chatham thus gave his advice in reference to this subject3--,i would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed1 and the walls of your chamber1 ',if you do not rise early1 you can make progress in nothing4' #d4 ,,cleanliness ,,is ,,also ,,indispensable ,,to ,,health1 and must be studied both in regard to the person and the house1 and all that it contains4 ,cold or tepid baths should be employed every morning1 unless1 on account of illness or other circumstances1 they should be deemed objectionable4 ,the bathing of children will be treated of under the head of ,,management ,,of ,,children4 #e4 ,,frugality ,,and ,,economy ,,are ,,home ,,virtues1 without which no household can prosper4 ,dr4 ,johnson says3 ,frugality may be termed the daughter of ,prudence1 the sister of ,temperance1 and the parent of ,liberty4 ,he that is extravagant will quickly become poor1 and poverty will enforce dependence and invite corruption4 ,the necessity of practising economy should be evident to every one1 whether in the possession of an income no more than sufficient for a family's requirements1 or of a large fortune1 which puts financial adversity out of the question4 ,we must always remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage a little well4 ,he is a good waggoner1 says ,bishop ,hall1 that can turn in a little room4 ,to live well in abundance is the praise of the estate1 not of the person4 ,i will study more how to give a good account of my little1 than how to make it more4 ,in this there is true wisdom1 and it may be added1 that those who can manage a little well1 are most likely to succeed in their management of larger matters4 ,economy and frugality must never1 however1 be allowed to degenerate into parsimony and meanness4 #f4 ,,the ,,choice ,,of ,,acquaintances is very important to the happiness of a mistress and her family4 ,a gossiping acquaintance1 who indulges in the scandal and ridicule of her neighbours1 should be avoided as a pestilence4 ,it is likewise all-necessary to beware1 as ,thomson sings1 ,the whisper'd tale1 ,that1 like the fabling ,nile1 no fountain knows2-- ,fair-laced ,deceit1 whose wily1 conscious aye ,ne'er looks direct2 the tongue that licks the dust ,but1 when it safely dares1 as prompt to sting4 ,if the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of a mistress1 society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to the mutual interchange of general and interesting information4 #g4 ,,friendships ,,should ,,not ,,be ,,hastily ,,formed1 nor the heart given1 at once1 to every new-comer4 ,there are ladies who uniformly smile at1 and approve everything and everybody1 and who possess neither the courage to reprehend vice1 nor the generous warmth to defend virtue4 ,the friendship of such persons is without attachment1 and their love without affection or even preference4 ,they imagine that every one who has any penetration is ill-natured1 and look coldly on a discriminating judgment4 ,it should be remembered1 however1 that this discernment does not always proceed from an uncharitable temper1 but that those who possess a long experience and thorough knowledge of the world1 scrutinize the conduct and dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the first fair appearances4 ,addison1 who was not deficient in a knowledge of mankind1 observes that a friendship1 which makes the least noise1 is very often the most useful2 for which reason1 ,i should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one4 ,and ,joanna ,baillie tells us that ,friendship is no plant of hasty growth1 ,though planted in esteem's deep-fixed soil1 ,the gradual culture of kind intercourse ,must bring it to perfection4 #h4 ,,hospitality ,,is ,a ,,most ,,excellent ,,virtue2 but care must be taken that the love of company1 for its own sake1 does not become a prevailing passion2 for then the habit is no longer hospitality1 but dissipation4 ,reality and truthfulness in this1 as in all other duties of life1 are the points to be studied2 for1 as ,washington ,irving well says1 ,there is an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality1 which cannot be described1 but is immediately felt1 and puts the stranger at once at his ease4 ,with respect to the continuance of friendships1 however1 it may be found necessary1 in some cases1 for a mistress to relinquish1 on assuming the responsibility of a household1 many of those commenced in the earlier part of her life4 ,this will be the more requisite1 if the number still retained be quite equal to her means and opportunities4 #i4 ,,in ,,conversation1 ,,trifling ,,occurrences1 such as small disappointments1 petty annoyances1 and other every-day incidents1 should never be mentioned to your friends4 ,the extreme injudiciousness of repeating these will be at once apparent1 when we reflect on the unsatisfactory discussions which they too frequently occasion1 and on the load of advice which they are the cause of being tendered1 and which is1 too often1 of a kind neither to be useful nor agreeable4 ,greater events1 whether of joy or sorrow1 should be communicated to friends2 and1 on such occasions1 their sympathy gratifies and comforts4 ,if the mistress be a wife1 never let an account of her husband's failings pass her lips2 and in cultivating the power of conversation1 she should keep the versified advice of ,cowper continually in her memory1 that it ,should flow like water after summer showers1 ,not as if raised by mere mechanic powers4 ,in reference to its style1 ,dr4 ,johnson1 who was himself greatly distinguished for his colloquial abilities1 says that no style is more extensively acceptable than the narrative1 because this does not carry an air of superiority over the rest of the company2 and1 therefore1 is most likely to please them4 ,for this purpose we should store our memory with short anecdotes and entertaining pieces of history4 ,almost every one listens with eagerness to extemporary history4 ,vanity often co-operates with curiosity2 for he that is a hearer in one place wishes to qualify himself to be a principal speaker in some inferior company2 and therefore more attention is given to narrations than anything else in conversation4 ,it is true1 indeed1 that sallies of wit and quick replies are very pleasing in conversation2 but they frequently tend to raise envy in some of the company3 but the narrative way neither raises this1 nor any other evil passion1 but keeps all the company nearly upon an equality1 and1 if judiciously managed1 will at once entertain and improve them all4 #aj4 ,,good ,,temper ,,should ,,be ,,cultivated by every mistress1 as upon it the welfare of the household may be said to turn2 indeed1 its influence can hardly be over-estimated1 as it has the effect of moulding the characters of those around her1 and of acting most beneficially on the happiness of the domestic circle4 ,every head of a household should strive to be cheerful1 and should never fail to show a deep interest in all that appertains to the well-being of those who claim the protection of her roof4 ,gentleness1 not partial and temporary1 but universal and regular1 should pervade her conduct2 for where such a spirit is habitually manifested1 it not only delights her children1 but makes her domestics attentive and respectful2 her visitors are also pleased by it1 and their happiness is increased4 #aa4 ,,on ,,the ,,important ,,subject ,,of ,,dress ,,and ,,fashion we cannot do better than quote an opinion from the eighth volume of the ,englishwoman's ,domestic ,magazine4 ,the writer there says1 ,let people write1 talk1 lecture1 satirize1 as they may1 it cannot be denied that1 whatever is the prevailing mode in attire1 let it intrinsically be ever so absurd1 it will never look as ridiculous as another1 or as any other1 which1 however convenient1 comfortable1 or even becoming1 is totally opposite in style to that generally worn4 #ab4 ,,in ,,purchasing ,,articles ,,of ,,wearing ,,apparel1 whether it be a silk dress1 a bonnet1 shawl1 or riband1 it is well for the buyer to consider three things3 ,i4 ,that it be not too expensive for her purse4 ,,ii4 ,that its colour harmonize with her complexion1 and its size and pattern with her figure4 ,,iii4 ,that its tint allow of its being worn with the other garments she possesses4 ,the quaint ,fuller observes1 that the good wife is none of our dainty dames1 who love to appear in a variety of suits every day new1 as if a gown1 like a stratagem in war1 were to be used but once4 ,but our good wife sets up a sail according to the keel of her husband's estate2 and1 if of high parentage1 she doth not so remember what she was by birth1 that she forgets what she is by match4 ,to ,brunettes1 or those ladies having dark complexions1 silks of a grave hue are adapted4 ,for ,blondes1 or those having fair complexions1 lighter colours are preferable1 as the richer1 deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter4 ,the colours which go best together are green with violet2 gold-colour with dark crimson or lilac2 pale blue with scarlet2 pink with black or white2 and gray with scarlet or pink4 ,a cold colour generally requires a warm tint to give life to it4 ,gray and pale blue1 for instance1 do not combine well1 both being cold colours4 #ac4 ,,the ,,dress ,,of ,,the ,,mistress should always be adapted to her circumstances1 and be varied with different occasions4 ,thus1 at breakfast she should be attired in a very neat and simple manner1 wearing no ornaments4 ,if this dress should decidedly pertain only to the breakfast-hour1 and be specially suited for such domestic occupations as usually follow that meal1 then it would be well to exchange it before the time for receiving visitors1 if the mistress be in the habit of doing so4 ,it is still to be remembered1 however1 that1 in changing the dress1 jewellery and ornaments are not to be worn until the full dress for dinner is assumed4 ,further information and hints on the subject of the toilet will appear under the department of the ,,lady',s-,,maid4 ,the advice of ,polonius to his son ,laertes1 in ,shakspeare's tragedy of ,hamlet1 is most excellent2 and although given to one of the male sex1 will equally apply to a fayre ladye3-- ,costly thy habit as thy purse can buy1 ,but not express'd in fancy2 rich1 not gaudy2 ,for the apparel oft proclaims the man4 #ad4 ,,charity ,,and ,,benevolence ,,are ,,duties which a mistress owes to herself as well as to her fellow-creatures2 and there is scarcely any income so small1 but something may be spared from it1 even if it be but the widow's mite4 ,it is to be always remembered1 however1 that it is the spirit of charity which imparts to the gift a value far beyond its actual amount1 and is by far its better part4 ,true ,charity1 a plant divinely nursed1 ,fed by the love from which it rose at first1 ,thrives against hope1 and1 in the rudest scene1 ,storms but enliven its unfading green2 ,exub'rant is the shadow it supplies1 ,its fruit on earth1 its growth above the skies4 ,visiting the houses of the poor is the only practical way really to understand the actual state of each family2 and although there may be difficulties in following out this plan in the metropolis and other large cities1 yet in country towns and rural districts these objections do not obtain4 ,great advantages may result from visits paid to the poor2 for there being1 unfortunately1 much ignorance1 generally1 amongst them with respect to all household knowledge1 there will be opportunities for advising and instructing them1 in a pleasant and unobtrusive manner1 in cleanliness1 industry1 cookery1 and good management4 #ae4 ,,in ,,marketing1 ,,that ,,the ,,best ,,articles ,,are ,,the ,,cheapest1 may be laid down as a rule2 and it is desirable1 unless an experienced and confidential housekeeper be kept1 that the mistress should herself purchase all provisions and stores needed for the house4 ,if the mistress be a young wife1 and not accustomed to order things for the house1 a little practice and experience will soon teach her who are the best tradespeople to deal with1 and what are the best provisions to buy4 ,under each particular head of ,,fish1 ,,meat1 ,,poultry1 ,,game1 c41 will be described the proper means of ascertaining the quality of these comestibles4 #af4 ,a ,,housekeeping ,,account-,,book should invariably be kept1 and kept punctually and precisely4 ,the plan for keeping household accounts1 which we should recommend1 would be to make an entry1 that is1 write down into a daily diary every amount paid on that particular day1 be it ever so small2 then1 at the end of the month1 let these various payments be ranged under their specific heads of ,butcher1 ,baker1 c42 and thus will be seen the proportions paid to each tradesman1 and any one month's expenses may be contrasted with another4 ,the housekeeping accounts should be balanced not less than once a month2 so that you may see that the money you have in hand tallies with your account of it in your diary4 ,judge ,haliburton never wrote truer words than when he said1 ,no man is rich whose expenditure exceeds his means1 and no one is poor whose incomings exceed his outgoings4 ,when1 in a large establishment1 a housekeeper is kept1 it will be advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly4 ,then any increase of expenditure which may be apparent1 can easily be explained1 and the housekeeper will have the satisfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her department well and economically1 have been successful4 #ag4 ,,engaging ,,domestics is one of those duties in which the judgment of the mistress must be keenly exercised4 ,there are some respectable registry-offices1 where good servants may sometimes be hired2 but the plan rather to be recommended is1 for the mistress to make inquiry amongst her circle of friends and acquaintances1 and her tradespeople4 ,the latter generally know those in their neighbourhood1 who are wanting situations1 and will communicate with them1 when a personal interview with some of them will enable the mistress to form some idea of the characters of the applicants1 and to suit herself accordingly4 ,we would here point out an error--and a grave one it is--into which some mistresses fall4 ,they do not1 when engaging a servant1 expressly tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform4 ,this is an act of omission severely to be reprehended4 ,every portion of work which the maid will have to do1 should be plainly stated by the mistress1 and understood by the servant4 ,if this plan is not carefully adhered to1 domestic contention is almost certain to ensue1 and this may not be easily settled2 so that a change of servants1 which is so much to be deprecated1 is continually occurring4 #ah4 ,,in ,,obtaining ,a ,,servant',s ,,character1 it is not well to be guided by a written one from some unknown quarter2 but it is better to have an interview1 if at all possible1 with the former mistress4 ,by this means you will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servant for your place1 from the appearance of the lady and the state of her house4 ,negligence and want of cleanliness in her and her household generally1 will naturally lead you to the conclusion1 that her servant has suffered from the influence of the bad example4 ,the proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal interview with the lady is this3--,the servant in search of the situation must be desired to see her former mistress1 and ask her to be kind enough to appoint a time1 convenient to herself1 when you may call on her2 this proper observance of courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger4 ,your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of her former servant2 and if no objection is stated in that respect1 her other qualifications are then to be ascertained4 ,inquiries should be very minute1 so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble1 by knowing the weak points of your domestic4 #ai4 ,,the ,,treatment ,,of ,,servants is of the highest possible moment1 as well to the mistress as to the domestics themselves4 ,on the head of the house the latter will naturally fix their attention2 and if they perceive that the mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles1 they will not fail to respect her4 ,if1 also1 a benevolent desire is shown to promote their comfort1 at the same time that a steady performance of their duty is exacted1 then their respect will not be unmingled with affection1 and they will be still more solicitous to continue to deserve her favour4 #bj4 ,,in ,,giving ,a ,,character1 it is scarcely necessary to say that the mistress should be guided by a sense of strict justice4 ,it is not fair for one lady to recommend to another1 a servant she would not keep herself4 ,the benefit1 too1 to the servant herself is of small advantage2 for the failings which she possesses will increase if suffered to be indulged with impunity4 ,it is hardly necessary to remark1 on the other hand1 that no angry feelings on the part of a mistress towards her late servant1 should ever be allowed1 in the slightest degree1 to influence her1 so far as to induce her to disparage her maid's character4 #ba4 ,,the ,,following ,,table ,,of ,,the ,,average ,,yearly ,,wages paid to domestics1 with the various members of the household placed in the order in which they are usually ranked1 will serve as a guide to regulate the expenditure of an establishment3-- ,when not found in ,when found in ,livery4 ,livery4 ,the ,house ,steward ,from #aj to #hj -- ,the ,valet #be to #ej ,from #bj to #cj ,the ,butler #be to #ej -- ,the ,cook #bj to #dj -- ,the ,gardener #bj to #dj -- ,the ,footman #bj to #dj #ae to #be ,the ,under ,butler #ae to #cj #ae to #be ,the ,coachman -- #bj to #ce ,the ,groom #ae to #cj #ab to #bj ,the ,under ,footman -- #ab to #bj ,the ,page or ,footboy #h to #ah #f to #ad ,the ,stableboy #f to #ab -- ,when no extra ,when an extra allowance is made for allowance is made for ,tea1 ,sugar1 and ,beer4 ,tea1 ,sugar1 and ,beer4 ,the ,housekeeper ,from #bj to #ae ,from #ah to #dj ,the ,lady's-maid #ab to #be #aj to #bj ,the ,head ,nurse #ae to #cj #ac to #bf ,the ,cook #aa to #cj #ab to #bf ,the ,upper ,housemaid #ab to #bj #aj to #ag ,the ,upper ,laundry-maid #ab to #ah #aj to #ae ,the ,maid-of-all-work #i to #ad #g-a_/b to #aa ,the ,under ,housemaid #h to #ab #f-a_/b to #aj ,the ,still-room ,maid #i to #ad #h to #ac ,the ,nursemaid #h to #ab #e to #aj ,the ,under ,laundry-maid #i to #aa #h to #ab ,the ,kitchen-maid #i to #ad #h to #ab ,the ,scullery-maid #e to #i #d to #h ,these quotations of wages are those usually given in or near the metropolis2 but1 of course1 there are many circumstances connected with locality1 and also having reference to the long service on the one hand1 or the inexperience on the other1 of domestics1 which may render the wages still higher or lower than those named above4 ,all the domestics mentioned in the above table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman4 ,the number of servants1 of course1 would become smaller in proportion to the lesser size of the establishment2 and we may here enumerate a scale of servants suited to various incomes1 commencing with-- ,about #a1jjj a year--,a cook1 upper housemaid1 nursemaid1 under housemaid1 and a man servant4 ,about #gej a year--,a cook1 housemaid1 nursemaid1 and footboy4 ,about #ejj a year--,a cook1 housemaid1 and nursemaid4 ,about #cjj a year--,a maid-of-all-work and nursemaid4 ,about #bjj or #aej a year--,a maid-of-all-work 7and girl occasionally74 #bb4 ,,having ,,thus ,,indicated some of the more general duties of the mistress1 relative to the moral government of her household1 we will now give a few specific instructions on matters having a more practical relation to the position which she is supposed to occupy in the eye of the world4 ,to do this the more clearly1 we will begin with her earliest duties1 and take her completely through the occupations of a day4 #bc4 ,,having ,,risen ,,early1 as we have already advised 7see #c71 and having given due attention to the bath1 and made a careful toilet1 it will be well at once to see that the children have received their proper ablutions1 and are in every way clean and comfortable4 ,the first meal of the day1 breakfast1 will then be served1 at which all the family should be punctually present1 unless illness1 or other circumstances1 prevent4 #bd4 ,,after ,,breakfast ,,is ,,over1 it will be well for the mistress to make a round of the kitchen and other offices1 to see that all are in order1 and that the morning's work has been properly performed by the various domestics4 ,the orders for the day should then be given1 and any questions which the domestics desire to ask1 respecting their several departments1 should be answered1 and any special articles they may require1 handed to them from the store-closet4 ,in those establishments where there is a housekeeper1 it will not be so necessary for the mistress1 personally1 to perform the above-named duties4 #be4 ,,after ,,this ,,general ,,superintendence of her servants1 the mistress1 if a mother of a young family1 may devote herself to the instruction of some of its younger members1 or to the examination of the state of their wardrobe1 leaving the later portion of the morning for reading1 or for some amusing recreation4 ,recreation1 says ,bishop ,hall1 is intended to the mind as whetting is to the scythe1 to sharpen the edge of it1 which would otherwise grow dull and blunt4 ,he1 therefore1 that spends his whole time in recreation is ever whetting1 never mowing2 his grass may grow and his steed starve2 as1 contrarily1 he that always toils and never recreates1 is ever mowing1 never whetting1 labouring much to little purpose4 ,as good no scythe as no edge4 ,then only doth the work go forward1 when the scythe is so seasonably and moderately whetted that it may cut1 and so cut1 that it may have the help of sharpening4 ,unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed1 and she be obliged to devote a great deal of her time to the making of her children's clothes1 and other economical pursuits1 it is right that she should give some time to the pleasures of literature1 the innocent delights of the garden1 and to the improvement of any special abilities for music1 painting1 and other elegant arts1 which she may1 happily1 possess4 #bf4 ,,these ,,duties ,,and ,,pleasures ,,being ,,performed ,,and ,,enjoyed1 the hour of luncheon will have arrived4 ,this is a very necessary meal between an early breakfast and a late dinner1 as a healthy person1 with good exercise1 should have a fresh supply of food once in four hours4 ,it should be a light meal2 but its solidity must1 of course1 be1 in some degree1 proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to wait for your dinner1 and the amount of exercise you take in the mean time4 ,at this time1 also1 the servants' dinner will be served4 ,in those establishments where an early dinner is served1 that will1 of course1 take the place of the luncheon4 ,in many houses1 where a nursery dinner is provided for the children and about one o'clock1 the mistress and the elder portion of the family make their luncheon at the same time from the same joint1 or whatever may be provided4 ,a mistress will arrange1 according to circumstances1 the serving of the meal2 but the more usual plan is for the lady of the house to have the joint brought to her table1 and afterwards carried to the nursery4 #bg4 ,,after ,,luncheon1 ,,morning ,,calls ,,and ,,visits may be made and received4 ,these may be divided under three heads3 those of ceremony1 friendship1 and congratulation or condolence4 ,visits of ceremony1 or courtesy1 which occasionally merge into those of friendship1 are to be paid under various circumstances4 ,thus1 they are uniformly required after dining at a friend's house1 or after a ball1 picnic1 or any other party4 ,these visits should be short1 a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being quite sufficient4 ,a lady paying a visit may remove her boa or neckerchief2 but neither her shawl nor bonnet4 ,when other visitors are announced1 it is well to retire as soon as possible1 taking care to let it appear that their arrival is not the cause4 ,when they are quietly seated1 and the bustle of their entrance is over1 rise from your chair1 taking a kind leave of the hostess1 and bowing politely to the guests4 ,should you call at an inconvenient time1 not having ascertained the luncheon hour1 or from any other inadvertence1 retire as soon as possible1 without1 however1 showing that you feel yourself an intruder4 ,it is not difficult for any well-bred or even good-tempered person1 to know what to say on such an occasion1 and1 on politely withdrawing1 a promise can be made to call again1 if the lady you have called on1 appear really disappointed4 #bh4 ,,in ,,paying ,,visits ,,of ,,friendship1 it will not be so necessary to be guided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony2 and if a lady be pressed by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet1 it can be done if it will not interfere with her subsequent arrangements4 ,it is1 however1 requisite to call at suitable times1 and to avoid staying too long1 if your friend is engaged4 ,the courtesies of society should ever be maintained1 even in the domestic circle1 and amongst the nearest friends4 ,during these visits1 the manners should be easy and cheerful1 and the subjects of conversation such as may be readily terminated4 ,serious discussions or arguments are to be altogether avoided1 and there is much danger and impropriety in expressing opinions of those persons and characters with whom1 perhaps1 there is but a slight acquaintance4 7,see #f1 #g1 and #i47 ,it is not advisable1 at any time1 to take favourite dogs into another lady's drawing-room1 for many persons have an absolute dislike to such animals2 and besides this1 there is always a chance of a breakage of some article occurring1 through their leaping and bounding here and there1 sometimes very much to the fear and annoyance of the hostess4 ,her children1 also1 unless they are particularly well-trained and orderly1 and she is on exceedingly friendly terms with the hostess1 should not accompany a lady in making morning calls4 ,where a lady1 however1 pays her visits in a carriage1 the children can be taken in the vehicle1 and remain in it until the visit is over4 #bi4 ,,for ,,morning ,,calls1 it is well to be neatly attired2 for a costume very different to that you generally wear1 or anything approaching an evening dress1 will be very much out of place4 ,as a general rule1 it may be said1 both in reference to this and all other occasions1 it is better to be under-dressed than over-dressed4 ,a strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits1 and notice how soon your visits have been returned4 ,an opinion may thus be formed as to whether your frequent visits are1 or are not1 desirable4 ,there are1 naturally1 instances when the circumstances of old age or ill health will preclude any return of a call2 but when this is the case1 it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty4 #cj4 ,,in ,,paying ,,visits ,,of ,,condolence1 it is to be remembered that they should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them4 ,if the acquaintance1 however1 is but slight1 then immediately after the family has appeared at public worship4 ,a lady should send in her card1 and if her friends be able to receive her1 the visitor's manner and conversation should be subdued and in harmony with the character of her visit4 ,courtesy would dictate that a mourning card should be used1 and that visitors1 in paying condoling visits1 should be dressed in black1 either silk or plain-coloured apparel4 ,sympathy with the affliction of the family1 is thus expressed1 and these attentions are1 in such cases1 pleasing and soothing4 ,in all these visits1 if your acquaintance or friend be not at home1 a card should be left4 ,if in a carriage1 the servant will answer your inquiry and receive your card2 if paying your visits on foot1 give your card to the servant in the hall1 but leave to go in and rest should on no account be asked4 ,the form of words1 ,not at home1 may be understood in different senses2 but the only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true4 ,you may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home1 and that she would make an exception in your favour1 or you may think that your acquaintance is not desired2 but1 in either case1 not the slightest word is to escape you1 which would suggest1 on your part1 such an impression4 #ca4 ,,in ,,receiving ,,morning ,,calls1 the foregoing description of the etiquette to be observed in paying them1 will be of considerable service4 ,it is to be added1 however1 that the occupations of drawing1 music1 or reading should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors4 ,if a lady1 however1 be engaged with light needlework1 and none other is appropriate in the drawing-room1 it may not be1 under some circumstances1 inconsistent with good breeding to quietly continue it during conversation1 particularly if the visit be protracted1 or the visitors be gentlemen4 ,formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the house to the door1 and there take leave of them2 but modern society1 which has thrown off a great deal of this kind of ceremony1 now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat1 shake hands1 or courtesy1 in accordance with the intimacy she has with her guests1 and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door4 ,in making a first call1 either upon a newly-married couple1 or persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood1 a lady should leave her husband's card together with her own1 at the same time1 stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the visit1 with her4 ,it is a custom with many ladies1 when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood1 to leave or send their own and husband's cards1 with the letters ,p4 ,p4 ,c4 in the right-hand corner4 ,these letters are the initials of the ,french words1 ,pour prendre cong1 meaning1 ,to take leave4 #cb4 ,,the ,,morning ,,calls ,,being ,,paid ,,or ,,received1 and their etiquette properly attended to1 the next great event of the day in most establishments is ,the ,dinner2 and we only propose here to make a few general remarks on this important topic1 as1 in future pages1 the whole ,art of ,dining will be thoroughly considered1 with reference to its economy1 comfort1 and enjoyment4 #cc4 ,,in ,,giving ,,or ,,accepting ,,an ,,invitation ,,for ,,dinner1 the following is the form of words generally made use of4 ,they1 however1 can be varied in proportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guests3-- ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,a---- present their compliments to ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,b----1 and request the honour1 or hope to have the pleasure of their company to dinner on ,wednesday1 the #fth of ,december next4 ,a---- ,,street1 ,november #acth1 #ahei4 ,r4 ,s4 ,v4 ,p4 ,the letters in the corner imply ,rpondez1 s'il vous plat2 meaning1 an answer will oblige4 ,the reply1 accepting the invitation1 is couched in the following terms3-- ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,b---- present their compliments to ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,a---1 and will do themselves the honour of1 or will have much pleasure in accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the #fth of ,december next4 ,b---- ,,square1 ,november #ahth1 #ahei4 ,cards1 or invitations for a dinner-party1 should be issued a fortnight or three weeks 7sometimes even a month7 beforehand1 and care should be taken by the hostess1 in the selection of the invited guests1 that they should be suited to each other4 ,much also of the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the arrangement of the guests at table1 so as to form a due admixture of talkers and listeners1 the grave and the gay4 ,if an invitation to dinner is accepted1 the guests should be punctual1 and the mistress ready in her drawing-room to receive them4 ,at some periods it has been considered fashionable to come late to dinner1 but lately nous avons chang tout cela4 #cd4 ,,the ,,half-,,hour ,,before ,,dinner has always been considered as the great ordeal through which the mistress1 in giving a dinner-party1 will either pass with flying colours1 or1 lose many of her laurels4 ,the anxiety to receive her guests1--her hope that all will be present in due time1--her trust in the skill of her cook1 and the attention of the other domestics1 all tend to make these few minutes a trying time4 ,the mistress1 however1 must display no kind of agitation1 but show her tact in suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation1 which will be much aided by the introduction of any particular new book1 curiosity of art1 or article of vertu1 which may pleasantly engage the attention of the company4 ,waiting for ,dinner1 however1 is a trying time1 and there are few who have not felt-- ,how sad it is to sit and pine1 ,the long half-hour before we dine6 ,upon our watches oft to look1 ,then wonder at the clock and cook1 99 99 99 99 99 ,and strive to laugh in spite of ,fate6 ,but laughter forced soon quits the room1 ,and leaves it in its former gloom4 ,but lo6 the dinner now appears1 ,the object of our hopes and fears1 ,the end of all our pain6 ,in giving an entertainment of this kind1 the mistress should remember that it is her duty to make her guests feel happy1 comfortable1 and quite at their ease2 and the guests should also consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be happy4 ,thus an opportunity is given to all for innocent enjoyment and intellectual improvement1 when also acquaintances may be formed that may prove invaluable through life1 and information gained that will enlarge the mind4 ,many celebrated men and women have been great talkers2 and1 amongst others1 the genial ,sir ,walter ,scott1 who spoke freely to every one1 and a favourite remark of whom it was1 that he never did so without learning something he didn't know before4 #ce4 ,,dinner ,,being ,,announced1 the host offers his arm to1 and places on his right hand at the dinner-table1 the lady to whom he desires to pay most respect1 either on account of her age1 position1 or from her being the greatest stranger in the party4 ,if this lady be married and her husband present1 the latter takes the hostess to her place at table1 and seats himself at her right hand4 ,the rest of the company follow in couples1 as specified by the master and mistress of the house1 arranging the party according to their rank and other circumstances which may be known to the host and hostess4 ,it will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table1 to have the names of the guests neatly 7and correctly7 written on small cards1 and placed at that part of the table where it is desired they should sit4 ,with respect to the number of guests1 it has often been said1 that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the ,graces1 or more than that of the ,muses4 ,a party of ten or twelve is1 perhaps1 in a general way1 sufficient to enjoy themselves and be enjoyed4 ,white kid gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties1 but should be taken off before the business of dining commences4 #cf4 ,,the ,,guests ,,being ,,seated ,,at ,,the ,,dinner-,,table1 the lady begins to help the soup1 which is handed round1 commencing with the gentleman on her right and on her left1 and continuing in the same order till all are served4 ,it is generally established as a rule1 not to ask for soup or fish twice1 as1 in so doing1 part of the company may be kept waiting too long for the second course1 when1 perhaps1 a little revenge is taken by looking at the awkward consumer of a second portion4 ,this rule1 however1 may1 under various circumstances1 not be considered as binding4 ,it is not usual1 where taking wine is en rgle1 for a gentleman to ask a lady to take wine until the fish or soup is finished1 and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the right of the hostess1 may politely inquire if she will do him the honour of taking wine with him4 ,this will act as a signal to the rest of the company1 the gentleman of the house most probably requesting the same pleasure of the ladies at his right and left4 ,at many tables1 however1 the custom or fashion of drinking wine in this manner1 is abolished1 and the servant fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to the course which is in progress4 #cg4 ,,when ,,dinner ,,is ,,finished1 ,,the ,,dessert is placed on the table1 accompanied with finger-glasses4 ,it is the custom of some gentlemen to wet a corner of the napkin2 but the hostess1 whose behaviour will set the tone to all the ladies present1 will merely wet the tips of her fingers1 which will serve all the purposes required4 ,the ,french and other continentals have a habit of gargling the mouth2 but it is a custom which no ,english gentlewoman should1 in the slightest degree1 imitate4 #ch4 ,,when ,,fruit ,,has ,,been ,,taken1 and a glass or two of wine passed round1 the time will have arrived when the hostess will rise1 and thus give the signal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen1 and retire to the drawing-room4 ,the gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time1 and he who is nearest the door1 will open it for the ladies1 all remaining courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn4 ,dr4 ,johnson has a curious paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men4 ,before dinner1 he says1 men meet with great inequality of understanding2 and those who are conscious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk4 ,when they have drunk wine1 every man feels himself happy1 and loses that modesty1 and grows impudent and vociferous2 but he is not improved1 he is only not sensible of his defects4 ,this is rather severe1 but there may be truth in it4 ,in former times1 when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests1 it was necessary for the ladies to retire earlier than they do at present1 for the gentlemen of the company soon became unfit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential in the presence of ladies4 ,thanks1 however1 to the improvements in modern society1 and the high example shown to the nation by its most illustrious personages1 temperance is1 in these happy days1 a striking feature in the character of a gentleman4 ,delicacy of conduct towards the female sex has increased with the esteem in which they are now universally held1 and thus1 the very early withdrawing of the ladies from the dining-room is to be deprecated4 ,a lull in the conversation will seasonably indicate the moment for the ladies' departure4 #ci4 ,,after-,,dinner ,,invitations ,,may ,,be ,,given2 by which we wish to be understood1 invitations for the evening4 ,the time of the arrival of these visitors will vary according to their engagements1 or sometimes will be varied in obedience to the caprices of fashion4 ,guests invited for the evening are1 however1 generally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best suit themselves1--usually between nine and twelve1 unless earlier hours are specifically named4 ,by this arrangement1 many fashionable people and others1 who have numerous engagements to fulfil1 often contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the course of one evening4 #dj4 ,,the ,,etiquette ,,of ,,the ,,dinner-,,party ,,table being disposed of1 let us now enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball4 ,the invitations issued and accepted for either of these1 will be written in the same style as those already described for a dinner-party4 ,they should be sent out at least three weeks before the day fixed for the event1 and should be replied to within a week of their receipt4 ,by attending to these courtesies1 the guests will have time to consider their engagements and prepare their dresses1 and the hostess will1 also1 know what will be the number of her party4 ,if the entertainment is to be simply an evening party1 this must be specified on the card or note of invitation4 ,short or verbal invitations1 except where persons are exceedingly intimate1 or are very near relations1 are very far from proper1 although1 of course1 in this respect and in many other respects1 very much always depends on the manner in which the invitation is given4 ,true politeness1 however1 should be studied even amongst the nearest friends and relations2 for the mechanical forms of good breeding are of great consequence1 and too much familiarity may have1 for its effect1 the destruction of friendship4 #da4 ,,as ,,the ,,ladies ,,and ,,gentlemen ,,arrive1 each should be shown to a room exclusively provided for their reception2 and in that set apart for the ladies1 attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking1 and helping to arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it4 ,it will be found convenient1 in those cases where the number of guests is large1 to provide numbered tickets1 so that they can be attached to the cloaks and shawls of each lady1 a duplicate of which should be handed to the guest4 ,coffee is sometimes provided in this1 or an ante-room1 for those who would like to partake of it4 #db4 ,,as ,,the ,,visitors ,,are ,,announced ,,by ,,the ,,servant1 it is not necessary for the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door1 but merely to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies and congratulations4 ,if1 indeed1 the hostess wishes to show particular favour to some peculiarly honoured guests1 she may introduce them to others1 whose acquaintance she may imagine will be especially suitable and agreeable4 ,it is very often the practice of the master of the house to introduce one gentleman to another1 but occasionally the lady performs this office2 when it will1 of course1 be polite for the persons thus introduced to take their seats together for the time being4 ,the custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses1 and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them4 ,the servant1 indeed1 calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive1 but1 in many instances1 mispronounces them2 so that it will not be well to follow this information1 as if it were an unerring guide4 ,in our opinion1 it is a cheerless and depressing custom1 although1 in thus speaking1 we do not allude to the large assemblies of the aristocracy1 but to the smaller parties of the middle classes4 #dc4 ,a ,,separate ,,room ,,or ,,convenient ,,buffet should be appropriated for refreshments1 and to which the dancers may retire2 and cakes and biscuits1 with wine negus1 lemonade1 and ices1 handed round4 ,a supper is also mostly provided at the private parties of the middle classes2 and this requires1 on the part of the hostess1 a great deal of attention and supervision4 ,it usually takes place between the first and second parts of the programme of the dances1 of which there should be several prettily written or printed copies distributed about the ball-room4 ,in private parties1 a lady is not to refuse the invitation of a gentleman to dance1 unless she be previously engaged4 ,the hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of unblemished character1 as well as pretty equal in position2 and thus1 to decline the offer of any gentleman present1 would be a tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the house4 ,it may be mentioned here1 more especially for the young who will read this book1 that introductions at balls or evening parties1 cease with the occasion that calls them forth1 no introduction1 at these times1 giving a gentleman a right to address1 afterwards1 a lady4 ,she is1 consequently1 free1 next morning1 to pass her partner at a ball of the previous evening without the slightest recognition4 #dd4 ,,the ,,ball ,,is ,,generally ,,opened1 that is1 the first place in the first quadrille is occupied1 by the lady of the house4 ,when anything prevents this1 the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady who is either the highest in rank1 or the greatest stranger4 ,it will be well for the hostess1 even if she be very partial to the amusement1 and a graceful dancer1 not to participate in it to any great extent1 lest her lady guests should have occasion to complain of her monopoly of the gentlemen1 and other causes of neglect4 ,a few dances will suffice to show her interest in the entertainment1 without unduly trenching on the attention due to her guests4 ,in all its parts a ball should be perfect1-- ,the music1 and the banquet1 and the wine2 ,the garlands1 the rose-odours1 and the flowers4 ,the hostess or host1 during the progress of a ball1 will courteously accost and chat with their friends1 and take care that the ladies are furnished with seats1 and that those who wish to dance are provided with partners4 ,a gentle hint from the hostess1 conveyed in a quiet ladylike manner1 that certain ladies have remained unengaged during several dances1 is sure not to be neglected by any gentleman4 ,thus will be studied the comfort and enjoyment of the guests1 and no lady1 in leaving the house1 will be able to feel the chagrin and disappointment of not having been invited to stand up in a dance during the whole of the evening4 #de4 ,,when ,,any ,,of ,,the ,,carriages ,,of ,,the ,,guests ,,are ,,announced1 or the time for their departure arrived1 they should make a slight intimation to the hostess1 without1 however1 exciting any observation1 that they are about to depart4 ,if this cannot be done1 however1 without creating too much bustle1 it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking their leave4 ,during the course of the week1 the hostess will expect to receive from every guest a call1 where it is possible1 or cards expressing the gratification experienced from her entertainment4 ,this attention is due to every lady for the pains and trouble she has been at1 and tends to promote social1 kindly feelings4 #df4 ,,having ,,thus ,,discoursed of parties of pleasure1 it will be an interesting change to return to the more domestic business of the house1 although all the details we have been giving of dinner-parties1 balls1 and the like1 appertain to the department of the mistress4 ,without a knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions1 a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly pleasant meetings which give1 as it were1 a fillip to life1 and make the quiet happy home of an ,english gentlewoman appear the more delightful and enjoyable4 ,in their proper places1 all that is necessary to be known respecting the dishes and appearance of the breakfast1 dinner1 tea1 and supper tables1 will be set forth in this work4 #dg4 ,a ,,family ,,dinner ,,at ,,home1 compared with either giving or going to a dinner-party1 is1 of course1 of much more frequent occurrence1 and many will say1 of much greater importance4 ,both1 however1 have to be considered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment2 and the latter more particularly with reference to economy4 ,these points will be especially noted in the following pages on ,household ,cookery4 ,here we will only say1 that for both mistress and servants1 as well in large as small households1 it will be found1 by far1 the better plan1 to cook and serve the dinner1 and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard1 with the same cleanliness1 neatness1 and scrupulous exactness1 whether it be for the mistress herself alone1 a small family1 or for company4 ,if this rule be strictly adhered to1 all will find themselves increase in managing skill2 whilst a knowledge of their daily duties will become familiar1 and enable them to meet difficult occasions with ease1 and overcome any amount of obstacles4 #dh4 ,,of ,,the ,,manner ,,of ,,passing ,,evenings ,,at ,,home1 there is none pleasanter than in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind from its severer duties1 whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight4 ,where there are young people forming a part of the evening circle1 interesting and agreeable pastime should especially be promoted4 ,it is of incalculable benefit to them that their homes should possess all the attractions of healthful amusement1 comfort1 and happiness2 for if they do not find pleasure there1 they will seek it elsewhere4 ,it ought1 therefore1 to enter into the domestic policy of every parent1 to make her children feel that home is the happiest place in the world2 that to imbue them with this delicious home-feeling is one of the choicest gifts a parent can bestow4 ,light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's recreation for the ladies of the household1 and this may be varied by an occasional game at chess or backgammon4 ,it has often been remarked1 too1 that nothing is more delightful to the feminine members of a family1 than the reading aloud of some good standard work or amusing publication4 ,a knowledge of polite literature may be thus obtained by the whole family1 especially if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult passages of the book1 and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties it may contain4 ,this plan1 in a great measure1 realizes the advice of ,lord ,bacon1 who says1 ,read not to contradict and refute1 nor to believe and take for granted1 nor to find talk and discourse1 but to weigh and consider4 #di4 ,,in ,,retiring ,,for ,,the ,,night1 it is well to remember that early rising is almost impossible1 if late going to bed be the order1 or rather disorder1 of the house4 ,the younger members of a family should go early and at regular hours to their beds1 and the domestics as soon as possible after a reasonably appointed hour4 ,either the master or the mistress of a house should1 after all have gone to their separate rooms1 see that all is right with respect to the lights and fires below2 and no servants should1 on any account1 be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have retired4 #ej4 ,,having ,,thus ,,gone ,,from ,,early ,,rising ,,to ,,early ,,retiring1 there remain only now to be considered a few special positions respecting which the mistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information4 #ea4 ,,when ,a ,,mistress ,,takes ,a ,,house in a new locality1 it will be etiquette for her to wait until the older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call upon her2 thus evincing a desire1 on their part1 to become acquainted with the new comer4 ,it may be1 that the mistress will desire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours2 but it is to be specially borne in mind that all visits1 whether of ceremony1 friendship1 or condolence1 should be punctiliously returned4 #eb4 ,,you ,,may ,,perhaps ,,have ,,been ,,favoured with letters of introduction from some of your friends1 to persons living in the neighbourhood to which you have just come4 ,in this case inclose the letter of introduction in an envelope with your card4 ,then1 if the person1 to whom it is addressed1 calls in the course of a few days1 the visit should be returned by you within the week1 if possible4 ,any breach of etiquette1 in this respect1 will not readily be excused4 ,in the event of your being invited to dinner under the above circumstances1 nothing but necessity should prevent you from accepting the invitation4 ,if1 however1 there is some distinct reason why you cannot accept1 let it be stated frankly and plainly1 for politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied4 ,an opportunity should1 also1 be taken to call in the course of a day or two1 in order to politely express your regret and disappointment at not having been able to avail yourself of their kindness4 #ec4 ,,in ,,giving ,a ,,letter ,,of ,,introduction1 it should always be handed to your friend1 unsealed4 ,courtesy dictates this1 as the person whom you are introducing would1 perhaps1 wish to know in what manner he or she was spoken of4 ,should you receive a letter from a friend1 introducing to you any person known to and esteemed by the writer1 the letter should be immediately acknowledged1 and your willingness expressed to do all in your power to carry out his or her wishes4 #ed4 ,,such ,,are ,,the ,,onerous ,,duties which enter into the position of the mistress of a house1 and such are1 happily1 with a slight but continued attention1 of by no means difficult performance4 ,she ought always to remember that she is the first and the last1 the ,alpha and the ,omega in the government of her establishment2 and that it is by her conduct that its whole internal policy is regulated4 ,she is1 therefore1 a person of far more importance in a community than she usually thinks she is4 ,on her pattern her daughters model themselves2 by her counsels they are directed2 through her virtues all are honoured2--her children rise up and call her blessed2 her husband1 also1 and he praiseth her4 ,therefore1 let each mistress always remember her responsible position1 never approving a mean action1 nor speaking an unrefined word4 ,let her conduct be such that her inferiors may respect her1 and such as an honourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife and the mother of his children4 ,let her think of the many compliments and the sincere homage that have been paid to her sex by the greatest philosophers and writers1 both in ancient and modern times4 ,let her not forget that she has to show herself worthy of ,campbell's compliment when he said1-- ,the world was sad6 the garden was a wild6 ,and man the hermit sigh'd1 till woman smiled4 ,let her prove herself1 then1 the happy companion of man1 and able to take unto herself the praises of the pious prelate1 ,jeremy ,taylor1 who says1--,a good wife is ,heaven's last best gift to man1--his angel and minister of graces innumerable1--his gem of many virtues1--his casket of jewels--her voice is sweet music--her smiles his brightest day2--her kiss1 the guardian of his innocence2--her arms1 the pale of his safety1 the balm of his health1 the balsam of his life2--her industry1 his surest wealth2--her economy1 his safest steward2--her lips1 his faithful counsellors2--her bosom1 the softest pillow of his cares2 and her prayers1 the ablest advocates of ,heaven's blessings on his head4 ,cherishing1 then1 in her breast the respected utterances of the good and the great1 let the mistress of every house rise to the responsibility of its management2 so that1 in doing her duty to all around her1 she may receive the genuine reward of respect1 love1 and affection6 ,note4--,many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting1 and it is well known that three removes are as good 7or bad1 rather7 as a fire4 ,nevertheless1 it being quite evident that we must1 in these days at least1 live in houses1 and are sometimes obliged to change our residences1 it is well to consider some of the conditions which will add to1 or diminish1 the convenience and comfort of our homes4 ,although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many different circumstances with different people1 that to give any specific directions on this head would be impossible and useless2 yet it will be advantageous1 perhaps1 to many1 if we point out some of those general features as to locality1 soil1 aspect1 c41 to which the attention of all house-takers should be carefully directed4 ,regarding the locality1 we may say1 speaking now more particularly of a town house1 that it is very important to the health and comfort of a family1 that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind1 producing unwholesome effluvia or smells1 should be strictly avoided4 ,neither is it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade is carried on1 as it is unpleasant to the feelings1 and tends to increase any existing irritation of the system4 ,referring to soils2 it is held as a rule1 that a gravel soil is superior to any other1 as the rain drains through it very quickly1 and it is consequently drier and less damp than clay1 upon which water rests a far longer time4 ,a clay country1 too1 is not so pleasant for walking exercise as one in which gravel predominates4 ,the aspect of the house should be well considered1 and it should be borne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house1 the healthier is the habitation4 ,the close1 fetid smell which assails one on entering a narrow court1 or street1 in towns1 is to be assigned to the want of light1 and1 consequently1 air4 ,a house with a south or south-west aspect1 is lighter1 warmer1 drier1 and consequently more healthy1 than one facing the north or north-east4 ,great advances have been made1 during the last few years1 in the principles of sanitary knowledge1 and one most essential point to be observed in reference to a house1 is its drainage1 as it has been proved in an endless number of cases1 that bad or defective drainage is as certain to destroy health as the taking of poisons4 ,this arises from its injuriously affecting the atmosphere2 thus rendering the air we breathe unwholesome and deleterious4 ,let it be borne in mind1 then1 that unless a house is effectually drained1 the health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer2 and they will be susceptible of ague1 rheumatism1 diarrhoea1 fevers1 and cholera4 ,we now come to an all-important point1--that of the water supply4 ,the value of this necessary article has also been lately more and more recognized in connection with the question of health and life2 and most houses are well supplied with every convenience connected with water4 ,let it1 however1 be well understood1 that no house1 however suitable in other respects1 can be desirable1 if this grand means of health and comfort is1 in the slightest degree1 scarce or impure4 ,no caution can be too great to see that it is pure and good1 as well as plentiful2 for1 knowing1 as we do1 that not a single part of our daily food is prepared without it1 the importance of its influence on the health of the inmates of a house cannot be over-rated4 ,ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked4 ,in a general way1 enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors and windows2 but if this be not the case1 the chimney will smoke2 and other plans1 such as the placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in the upper part of the window1 must be used4 ,cold air should never be admitted under the doors1 or at the bottom of a room1 unless it be close to the fire or stove2 for it will flow along the floor towards the fireplace1 and thus leave the foul air in the upper part of the room1 unpurified1 cooling1 at the same time1 unpleasantly and injuriously1 the feet and legs of the inmates4 ,the rent of a house1 it has been said1 should not exceed one-eighth of the whole income of its occupier2 and1 as a general rule1 we are disposed to assent to this estimate1 although there may be many circumstances which would not admit of its being considered infallible4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,housekeeper4 #ee4 ,,as ,,second ,,in ,,command ,,in ,,the ,,house1 except in large establishments1 where there is a house steward1 the housekeeper must consider herself as the immediate representative of her mistress1 and bring1 to the management of the household1 all those qualities of honesty1 industry1 and vigilance1 in the same degree as if she were at the head of her own family4 ,constantly on the watch to detect any wrong-doing on the part of any of the domestics1 she will overlook all that goes on in the house1 and will see that every department is thoroughly attended to1 and that the servants are comfortable1 at the same time that their various duties are properly performed4 ,cleanliness1 punctuality1 order1 and method1 are essentials in the character of a good housekeeper4 ,without the first1 no household can be said to be well managed4 ,the second is equally all-important2 for those who are under the housekeeper will take their cue from her2 and in the same proportion as punctuality governs her movements1 so will it theirs4 ,order1 again1 is indispensable2 for by it we wish to be understood that there should be a place for everything1 and everything in its place4 ,method1 too1 is most necessary2 for when the work is properly contrived1 and each part arranged in regular succession1 it will be done more quickly and more effectually4 #ef4 ,a ,,necessary ,,qualification ,,for ,a ,,housekeeper is1 that she should thoroughly understand accounts4 ,she will have to write in her books an accurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose1 all the current expenses of the house1 tradesmen's bills1 and other extraneous matter4 ,as we have mentioned under the head of the ,mistress 7see #af71 a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically balanced1 and examined by the head of the house4 ,nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both employer and employed1 than this arrangement4 ,short reckonings make long friends1 stands good in this case1 as in others4 ,it will be found an excellent plan to take an account of every article which comes into the house connected with housekeeping1 and is not paid for at the time4 ,the book containing these entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the various tradesmen1 so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right4 ,an intelligent housekeeper will1 by this means1 too1 be better able to judge of the average consumption of each article by the household2 and if that quantity be1 at any time1 exceeded1 the cause may be discovered and rectified1 if it proceed from waste or carelessness4 #eg4 ,,although ,,in ,,the ,,department ,,of ,,the ,,cook1 the housekeeper does not generally much interfere1 yet it is necessary that she should possess a good knowledge of the culinary art1 as1 in many instances1 it may be requisite for her to take the superintendence of the kitchen4 ,as a rule1 it may be stated1 that the housekeeper1 in those establishments where there is no house steward or man cook1 undertakes the preparation of the confectionary1 attends to the preserving and pickling of fruits and vegetables2 and1 in a general way1 to the more difficult branches of the art of cookery4 ,much of these arrangements will depend1 however1 on the qualifications of the cook2 for instance1 if she be an able artiste1 there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper to interfere1 except in the already noticed articles of confectionary1 c4 ,on the contrary1 if the cook be not so clever an adept in her art1 then it will be requisite for the housekeeper to give more of her attention to the business of the kitchen1 than in the former case4 ,it will be one of the duties of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing1 in the absence of either a house steward or man cook4 #eh4 ,,the ,,daily ,,duties ,,of ,a ,,housekeeper are regulated1 in a great measure1 by the extent of the establishment she superintends4 ,she should1 however1 rise early1 and see that all the domestics are duly performing their work1 and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for the preparation of the breakfast for the household and family4 ,after breakfast1 which1 in large establishments1 she will take in the housekeeper's room with the lady's-maid1 butler1 and valet1 and where they will be waited on by the still-room maid1 she will1 on various days set apart for each purpose1 carefully examine the household linen1 with a view to its being repaired1 or to a further quantity being put in hand to be made2 she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is well rubbed and polished2 and will1 besides1 attend to all the necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen4 ,the housekeeper's room is generally made use of by the lady's-maid1 butler1 and valet1 who take there their breakfast1 tea1 and supper4 ,the lady's-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room1 when not engaged with her lady1 or with some other duties1 which would call her elsewhere4 ,in different establishments1 according to their size and the rank of the family1 different rules of course prevail4 ,for instance1 in the mansions of those of very high rank1 and where there is a house steward1 there are two distinct tables kept1 one in the steward's room for the principal members of the household1 the other in the servants' hall1 for the other domestics4 ,at the steward's dinner-table1 the steward and housekeeper preside2 and here1 also1 are present the lady's-maid1 butler1 valet1 and head gardener4 ,should any visitors be staying with the family1 their servants1 generally the valet and lady's-maid1 will be admitted to the steward's table4 #ei4 ,,after ,,dinner1 the housekeeper1 having seen that all the members of the establishment have regularly returned to their various duties1 and that all the departments of the household are in proper working order1 will have many important matters claiming her attention4 ,she will1 possibly1 have to give the finishing touch to some article of confectionary1 or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes of the still-room4 ,there may also be the dessert to arrange1 ice-creams to make2 and all these employments call for no ordinary degree of care1 taste1 and attention4 ,the still-room was formerly much more in vogue than at present2 for in days of auld lang syne1 the still was in constant requisition for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters for the purposes of cookery1 scents and aromatic substances used in the preparation of the toilet1 and cordials in cases of accidents and illness4 ,there are some establishments1 however1 in which distillation is still carried on1 and in these1 the still-room maid has her old duties to perform4 ,in a general way1 however1 this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper4 ,for the latter she lights the fire1 dusts her room1 prepares the breakfast-table1 and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper's room 7see #eh74 ,a still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connection with the housekeeper1 and if she be active and intelligent1 may soon fit herself for a better position in the household4 #fj4 ,,in ,,the ,,evening1 the housekeeper will often busy herself with the necessary preparations for the next day's duties4 ,numberless small1 but still important arrangements1 will have to be made1 so that everything may move smoothly4 ,at times1 perhaps1 attention will have to be paid to the breaking of lump-sugar1 the stoning of raisins1 the washing1 cleansing1 and drying of currants1 c4 ,the evening1 too1 is the best time for setting right her account of the expenditure1 and duly writing a statement of moneys received and paid1 and also for making memoranda of any articles she may require for her storeroom or other departments4 ,periodically1 at some convenient time1--for instance1 quarterly or half-yearly1 it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory of everything she has under her care1 and compare this with the lists of a former period2 she will then be able to furnish a statement1 if necessary1 of the articles which1 on account of time1 breakage1 loss1 or other causes1 it has been necessary to replace or replenish4 #fa4 ,,in ,,concluding ,,these ,,remarks on the duties of the housekeeper1 we will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches to her position4 ,like ,caesar's wife1 she should be above suspicion1 and her honesty and sobriety unquestionable2 for there are many temptations to which she is exposed4 ,in a physical point of view1 a housekeeper should be healthy and strong1 and be particularly clean in her person1 and her hands1 although they may show a degree of roughness1 from the nature of some of her employments1 yet should have a nice inviting appearance4 ,in her dealings with the various tradesmen1 and in her behaviour to the domestics under her1 the demeanour and conduct of the housekeeper should be such as1 in neither case1 to diminish1 by an undue familiarity1 her authority or influence4 ,note4--,it will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know the best seasons for various occupations connected with ,household ,management2 and we1 accordingly1 subjoin a few hints which we think will prove valuable4 ,as1 in the winter months1 servants have much more to do1 in consequence of the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughout the household1 not much more than the ordinary every-day work can be attempted4 ,in the summer1 and when the absence of fires gives the domestics more leisure1 then any extra work that is required1 can be more easily performed4 ,the spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning1 and removing all the dust and dirt1 which will necessarily1 with the best of housewives1 accumulate during the winter months1 from the smoke of the coal1 oil1 gas1 c4 ,this season is also well adapted for washing and bleaching linen1 c41 as1 the weather1 not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in washing counterpanes1 blankets1 and heavy things in general1 the work is better and more easily done than in the intense heats of ,july1 which month some recommend for these purposes4 ,winter curtains should be taken down1 and replaced by the summer white ones2 and furs and woollen cloths also carefully laid by4 ,the former should be well shaken and brushed1 and then pinned upon paper or linen1 with camphor to preserve them from the moths4 ,furs1 c41 will be preserved in the same way4 ,included1 under the general description of house-cleaning1 must be understood1 turning out all the nooks and corners of drawers1 cupboards1 lumber-rooms1 lofts1 c41 with a view of getting rid of all unnecessary articles1 which only create dirt and attract vermin2 sweeping of chimneys1 taking up carpets1 painting and whitewashing the kitchen and offices1 papering rooms1 when needed1 and1 generally speaking1 the house putting on1 with the approaching summer1 a bright appearance1 and a new face1 in unison with nature4 ,oranges now should be preserved1 and orange wine made4 ,the summer will be found1 as we have mentioned above1 in consequence of the diminution of labour for the domestics1 the best period for examining and repairing household linen1 and for putting to rights all those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during the dark winter days4 ,in direct reference to this matter1 we may here remark1 that sheets should be turned sides to middle before they are allowed to get very thin4 ,otherwise1 patching1 which is uneconomical from the time it consumes1 and is unsightly in point of appearance1 will have to be resorted to4 ,in ,june and ,july1 gooseberries1 currants1 raspberries1 strawberries1 and other summer fruits1 should be preserved1 and jams and jellies made4 ,in ,july1 too1 the making of walnut ketchup should be attended to1 as the green walnuts will be approaching perfection for this purpose4 ,mixed pickles may also be now made1 and it will be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice 7for the making of which all information will be given in future pages71 into which to put occasionally some young ,french beans1 cauliflowers1 c4 ,in the early autumn1 plums of various kinds are to be bottled and preserved1 and jams and jellies made4 ,a little later1 tomato sauce1 a most useful article to have by you1 may be prepared2 a supply of apples laid in1 if you have a place to keep them1 as also a few keeping pears and filberts4 ,endeavour to keep also a large vegetable marrow1--it will be found delicious in the winter4 ,in ,october and ,november1 it will be necessary to prepare for the cold weather1 and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the family4 ,the white summer curtains will now be carefully put away1 the fireplaces1 grates1 and chimneys looked to1 and the ,house put in a thorough state of repair1 so that no loose tile may1 at a future day1 interfere with your comfort1 and extract something considerable from your pocket4 ,in ,december1 the principal household duty lies in preparing for the creature comforts of those near and dear to us1 so as to meet old ,christmas with a happy face1 a contented mind1 and a full larder2 and in stoning the plums1 washing the currants1 cutting the citron1 beating the eggs1 and ,,mixing ,,the ,,pudding1 a housewife is not unworthily greeting the genial season of all good things4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,arrangement ,,and ,,economy ,,of ,,the ,,kitchen4 #fb4 ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,a ,,kitchen1 says ,count ,rumford1 the celebrated philosopher and physician1 who wrote so learnedly on all subjects connected with domestic economy and architecture1 must always depend so much on local circumstances1 that general rules can hardly be given respecting it2 the principles1 however1 on which this distribution ought1 in all cases1 to be made1 are simple and easy to be understood1 and1 in his estimation1 these resolve themselves into symmetry of proportion in the building and convenience to the cook4 ,the requisites of a good kitchen1 however1 demand something more special than is here pointed out4 ,it must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of every household1 and that much of the weal or woe1 as far as regards bodily health1 depends upon the nature of the preparations concocted within its walls4 ,a good kitchen1 therefore1 should be erected with a view to the following particulars4 #a4 ,convenience of distribution in its parts1 with largeness of dimension4 #b4 ,excellence of light1 height of ceiling1 and good ventilation4 #c4 ,easiness of access1 without passing through the house4 #d4 ,sufficiently remote from the principal apartments of the house1 that the members1 visitors1 or guests of the family1 may not perceive the odour incident to cooking1 or hear the noise of culinary operations4 #e4 ,plenty of fuel and water1 which1 with the scullery1 pantry1 and storeroom1 should be so near it1 as to offer the smallest possible trouble in reaching them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,the kitchens of the ,middle ,ages1 in ,england1 are said to have been constructed after the fashion of those of the ,romans4 ,they were generally octagonal1 with several fireplaces1 but no chimneys2 neither was there any wood admitted into the building4 ,the accompanying cut1 fig4 #a1 represents the turret which was erected on the top of the conical roof of the kitchen at ,glastonbury ,abbey1 and which was perforated with holes to allow the smoke of the fire1 as well as the steam from cooking1 to escape4 ,some kitchens had funnels or vents below the eaves to let out the steam1 which was sometimes considerable1 as the ,anglo-,saxons used their meat chiefly in a boiled state4 ,from this circumstance1 some of their large kitchens had four ranges1 comprising a boiling-place for small boiled meats1 and a boiling-house for the great boiler4 ,in private houses the culinary arrangements were no doubt different2 for ,du ,cange mentions a little kitchen with a chamber1 even in a solarium1 or upper floor4 #fc4 ,,the ,,simplicity ,,of ,,the ,,primitive ,,ages has frequently been an object of poetical admiration1 and it delights the imagination to picture men living upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth1 and desiring no other beverages to slake their thirst1 but such as fountains and rivers supply4 ,thus we are told1 that the ancient inhabitants of ,argos lived principally on pears2 that the ,arcadians revelled in acorns1 and the ,athenians in figs4 ,this1 of course1 was in the golden age1 before ploughing began1 and when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plenty without having to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow4 ,this delightful period1 however1 could not last for ever1 and the earth became barren1 and continued unfruitful till ,ceres came and taught the art of sowing1 with several other useful inventions4 ,the first whom she taught to till the ground was ,triptolemus1 who communicated his instructions to his countrymen the ,athenians4 ,thence the art was carried into ,achaia1 and thence into ,arcadia4 ,barley was the first grain that was used1 and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to ,pan4 ,the use of fire1 as an instrument of cookery1 must have been coeval with this invention of bread1 which1 being the most necessary of all kinds of food1 was frequently used in a sense so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink4 ,it was1 by the ,greeks1 baked under the ashes4 #fd4 ,,in ,,the ,,primary ,,ages it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh1 and when mankind began to depart from their primitive habits1 the flesh of swine was the first that was eaten4 ,for several ages1 it was pronounced unlawful to slaughter oxen1 from an estimate of their great value in assisting men to cultivate the ground2 nor was it usual to kill young animals1 from a sentiment which considered it cruel to take away the life of those that had scarcely tasted the joys of existence4 ,at this period no cooks were kept1 and we know from ,homer that his ancient heroes prepared and dressed their victuals with their own hands4 ,ulysses1 for example1 we are told1 like a modern charwoman1 excelled at lighting a fire1 whilst ,achilles was an adept at turning a spit4 ,subsequently1 heralds1 employed in civil and military affairs1 filled the office of cooks1 and managed marriage feasts2 but this1 no doubt1 was after mankind had advanced in the art of living1 a step further than roasting1 which1 in all places1 was the ancient manner of dressing meat4 #fe4 ,,the ,,age ,,of ,,roasting we may consider as that in which the use of the metals would be introduced as adjuncts to the culinary art2 and amongst these1 iron1 the most useful of them all1 would necessarily take a prominent place4 ,this metal is easily oxidized1 but to bring it to a state of fusibility1 it requires a most intense heat4 ,of all the metals1 it is the widest diffused and most abundant2 and few stones or mineral bodies are without an admixture of it4 ,it possesses the valuable property of being welded by hammering2 and hence its adaptation to the numerous purposes of civilized life4 ,metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries1 and a twelfth of the weight of the wood of dried oak is said to consist of this metal4 ,blood owes its colour of redness to the quantity of iron it contains1 and rain and snow are seldom perfectly free from it4 ,in the arts it is employed in three states1--as cast iron1 wrought iron1 and steel4 ,in each of these it largely enters into the domestic economy1 and stoves1 grates1 and the general implements of cookery1 are usually composed of it4 ,in antiquity1 its employment was1 comparatively speaking1 equally universal4 ,the excavations made at ,pompeii have proved this4 ,the accompanying cuts present us with specimens of stoves1 both ancient and modern4 ,fig4 #b is the remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of ,pansa1 at ,pompeii1 and would seem1 in its perfect state1 not to have been materially different from such as are in use at the present day4 ,fig4 #c is a self-acting1 simple open range in modern use1 and may be had of two qualities1 ranging1 according to their dimensions1 from #c4 #ajs4 and #c4 #ahs4 respectively1 up to #d4 #ajs4 and #g4 #es4 ,they are completely fitted up with oven1 boiler1 sliding cheek1 wrought-iron bars1 revolving shelves1 and brass tap4 ,fig4 #d1 is called the ,improved ,leamington ,kitchener1 and is said to surpass any other range in use1 for easy cooking by one fire4 ,it has a hot plate1 which is well calculated for an ironing-stove1 and on which as many vessels as will stand upon it1 may be kept boiling1 without being either soiled or injured4 ,besides1 it has a perfectly ventilated and spacious wrought-iron roaster1 with movable shelves1 draw-out stand1 double dripping-pan1 and meat-stand4 ,the roaster can be converted into an oven by closing the valves1 when bread and pastry can be baked in it in a superior manner4 ,it also has a large iron boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe1 round and square gridirons for chops and steaks1 ash-pan1 open fire for roasting1 and a set of ornamental covings with plate-warmer attached4 ,it took a first-class prize and medal in the ,great ,exhibition of #ahea1 and was also exhibited1 with all the recent improvements1 at the ,dublin ,exhibition in #ahec4 ,fig4 #e is another kitchener1 adapted for large families4 ,it has on the one side1 a large ventilated oven2 and on the other1 the fire and roaster4 ,the hot plate is over all1 and there is a back boiler1 made of wrought iron1 with brass tap and steam-pipe4 ,in other respects it resembles ,fig4 #d1 with which it possesses similar advantages of construction4 ,either maybe had at varying prices1 according to size1 from #e4 #aes4 up to #bc4 #ajs4 ,they are supplied by ,messrs4 ,richard ,john ,slack #ccf1 ,strand1 ,london4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 #ff4 ,,from ,,kitchen ,,ranges to the implements used in cookery is but a step4 ,with these1 every kitchen should be well supplied1 otherwise the cook must not be expected to perform her office in a satisfactory manner4 ,of the culinary utensils of the ancients1 our knowledge is very limited2 but as the art of living1 in every civilized country1 is pretty much the same1 the instruments for cooking must1 in a great degree1 bear a striking resemblance to each other4 ,on referring to classical antiquities1 we find mentioned1 among household utensils1 leather bags1 baskets constructed of twigs1 reeds1 and rushes2 boxes1 basins1 and bellows2 bread-moulds1 brooms1 and brushes2 caldrons1 colanders1 cisterns1 and chafing-dishes2 cheese-rasps1 knives1 and ovens of the ,dutch kind2 funnels and frying-pans2 handmills1 soup-ladles1 milk-pails1 and oil-jars2 presses1 scales1 and sieves2 spits of different sizes1 but some of them large enough to roast an ox2 spoons1 fire-tongs1 trays1 trenchers1 and drinking-vessels2 with others for carrying food1 preserving milk1 and holding cheese4 ,this enumeration1 if it does nothing else1 will1 to some extent1 indicate the state of the simpler kinds of mechanical arts among the ancients4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,in so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the kitchen utensils enumerated above1 they bore a great resemblance to our own4 ,this will be seen by the accompanying cuts4 ,fig4 #f is an ancient stock-pot in bronze1 which seems to have been made to hang over the fire1 and was found in the buried city of ,pompeii4 ,fig4 #g is one of modern make1 and may be obtained either of copper or wrought iron1 tinned inside4 ,fig4 #h is another of antiquity1 with a large ladle and colander1 with holes attached4 ,it is taken from the column of ,trajan4 ,the modern ones can be obtained at all prices1 according to size1 from #acs4 #f;d4 up to #a4 #as4 #fg4 ,,in ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,these ,,utensils1 bronze metal seems to have been much in favour with the ancients4 ,it was chosen not only for their domestic vessels1 but it was also much used for their public sculptures and medals4 ,it is a compound1 composed of from six to twelve parts of tin to one hundred of copper4 ,it gives its name to figures and all pieces of sculpture made of it4 ,brass was another favourite metal1 which is composed of copper and zinc4 ,it is more fusible than copper1 and not so apt to tarnish4 ,in a pure state it is not malleable1 unless when hot1 and after it has been melted twice it will not bear the hammer4 ,to render it capable of being wrought1 it requires #g lb4 of lead to be put to #a cwt4 of its own material4 ,the ,corinthian brass of antiquity was a mixture of silver1 gold1 and copper4 ,a fine kind of brass1 supposed to be made by the cementation of copper plates with calamine1 is1 in ,germany1 hammered out into leaves1 and is called ,dutch metal in this country4 ,it is employed in the same way as gold leaf4 ,brass is much used for watchworks1 as well as for wire4 #fh4 ,the braziers1 ladles1 stewpans1 saucepans1 gridirons1 and colanders of antiquity might generally pass for those of the ,english manufacture of the present day1 in so far as shape is concerned4 ,in proof of this we have placed together the following similar articles of ancient and modern pattern1 in order that the reader may1 at a single view1 see wherein any difference that is between them1 consists4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,modern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,ancient4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,modern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,ancient4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,modern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,ancient4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,modern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,modern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,ancient4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,ancient4 ,figs4 #i and #aj are flat sauce or saut pans1 the ancient one being fluted in the handle1 and having at the end a ram's head4 ,figs4 #aa and #ab are colanders1 the handle of the ancient one being adorned1 in the original1 with carved representations of a cornucopia1 a satyr1 a goat1 pigs1 and other animals4 ,any display of taste in the adornment of such utensils1 might seem to be useless2 but when we remember how much more natural it is for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly1 than of the plain and cheap1 it may even become a question in the economy of a kitchen1 whether it would not1 in the long run1 be cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity in their manufacture1 than such as are so perfectly plain as to have no attractions whatever beyond their mere suitableness to the purposes for which they are made4 ,figs4 #ac and #ad are saucepans1 the ancient one being of bronze1 originally copied from the cabinet of ,m4 l',abb ,charlet1 and engraved in the ,antiquities of ,montfaucon4 ,figs4 #ae and #ag are gridirons1 and #af and #ah dripping-pans4 ,in all these utensils the resemblance between such as were in use #b1jjj years ago1 and those in use at the present day1 is strikingly manifest4 #fi4 ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,ancient ,,utensils represented in the above cuts1 are copied from those found amid the ruins of ,herculaneum and ,pompeii4 ,these ,roman cities were1 in the first century1 buried beneath the lava of an eruption of ,vesuvius1 and continued to be lost to the world till the beginning of the last century1 when a peasant1 in digging for a well1 gradually discovered a small temple with some statues4 ,little notice1 however1 was taken of this circumstance till #agcf1 when the king of ,naples1 desiring to erect a palace at ,portici1 caused extensive excavations to be made1 when the city of ,herculaneum was slowly unfolded to view4 ,pompeii was discovered about #agej1 and being easier cleared from the lava in which it had so long been entombed1 disclosed itself as it existed immediately before the catastrophe which overwhelmed it1 nearly two thousand years ago4 ,it presented1 to the modern world1 the perfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient ,roman city4 ,the interior of its habitations1 shops1 baths1 theatres1 and temples1 were all disclosed1 with many of the implements used by the workmen in their various trades1 and the materials on which they were employed1 when the doomed city was covered with the lavian stream4 #gj4 ,,amongst ,,the ,,most ,,essential ,,requirements of the kitchen are scales or weighing-machines for family use4 ,these are found to have existed among the ancients1 and must1 at a very early age1 have been both publicly and privately employed for the regulation of quantities4 ,the modern ,english weights were adjusted by the #bgth chapter of ,magna ,charta1 or the great charter forced1 by the barons1 from ,king ,john at ,runnymede1 in ,surrey4 ,therein it is declared that the weights1 all over ,england1 shall be the same1 although for different commodities there were two different kinds1 ,troy and ,avoirdupois4 ,the origin of both is taken from a grain of wheat gathered in the middle of an ear4 ,the standard of measures was originally kept at ,winchester1 and by a law of ,king ,edgar was ordained to be observed throughout the kingdom4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,fig4 #ai is an ancient pair of common scales1 with two basins and a movable weight1 which is made in the form of a head1 covered with the pileus1 because ,mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence4 ,it is engraved on a stone in the gallery of ,florence4 ,fig4 #bj represents a modern weighing-machine1 of great convenience1 and generally in use in those establishments where a great deal of cooking is carried on4 #ga4 ,,accompanying ,,the ,,scales1 or weighing-machines1 there should be spice-boxes1 and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japanned tin4 ,the covers of these should fit tightly1 in order to exclude the air1 and if necessary1 be lettered in front1 to distinguish them4 ,the white metal of which they are usually composed1 loses its colour when exposed to the air1 but undergoes no further change4 ,it enters largely into the composition of culinary utensils1 many of them being entirely composed of tinned sheet-iron2 the inside of copper and iron vessels also1 being usually what is called tinned4 ,this art consists of covering any metal with a thin coating of tin2 and it requires the metal to be covered1 to be perfectly clean and free from rust1 and also that the tin1 itself1 be purely metallic1 and entirely cleared from all ashes or refuse4 ,copper boilers1 saucepans1 and other kitchen utensils1 are tinned after they are manufactured1 by being first made hot and the tin rubbed on with resin4 ,in this process1 nothing ought to be used but pure grain-tin4 ,lead1 however1 is sometimes mixed with that metal1 not only to make it lie more easily1 but to adulterate it--a pernicious practice1 which in every article connected with the cooking and preparation of food1 cannot be too severely reprobated4--,the following list1 supplied by ,messrs4 ,richard ,john ,slack1 #ccf1 ,strand1 will show the articles required for the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life1 although it does not contain all the things that may be deemed necessary for some families1 and may contain more than are required for others4 ,as ,messrs4 ,slack themselves1 however1 publish a useful illustrated catalogue1 which may be had at their establishment gratis1 and which it will be found advantageous to consult by those about to furnish1 it supersedes the necessity of our enlarging that which we give3-- s4 d4 #a ,tea-kettle #f #f #a ,toasting-fork #a #j #a ,bread-grater #a #j #a ,pair of ,brass ,candlesticks #c #f #a ,teapot and ,tray #f #f #a ,bottle-jack #i #f #f ,spoons #a #f #b ,candlesticks #b #f #a ,candle-box #a #d #f ,knives and ,forks #e #c #b ,sets of ,skewers #a #j #a ,meat-chopper #a #i #a ,cinder-sifter #a #c #a ,coffee-pot #b #c #a ,colander #a #f #c ,block-tin ,saucepans #e #i #e ,iron ,saucepans #ab #j #a ,ditto and ,steamer #f #f #a ,large ,boiling-pot #aj #j #d ,iron ,stewpans #h #i #a ,dripping-pan and ,stand #f #f #a ,dustpan #a #j #a ,fish and ,egg-slice #a #i #b ,fish-kettles #aj #j #a ,flour-box #a #j #c ,flat-irons #c #f #b ,frying-pans #d #j #a ,gridiron #b #j #a ,mustard-pot #a #j #a ,salt-cellar #j #h #a ,pepper-box #j #f #a ,pair of ,bellows #b #j #c ,jelly-moulds #h #j #a ,plate-basket #e #f #a ,cheese-toaster #a #aj #a ,coal-shovel #b #f #a ,wood ,meat-screen #cj #j ,the ,set #h #aa #a #gb4 ,,as ,,not ,,only ,,health ,,but ,,life may be said to depend on the cleanliness of culinary utensils1 great attention must be paid to their condition generally1 but more especially to that of the saucepans1 stewpans1 and boilers4 ,inside they should be kept perfectly clean1 and where an open fire is used1 the outside as clean as possible4 ,with a ,leamington range1 saucepans1 stewpans1 c41 can be kept entirely free from smoke and soot on the outside1 which is an immense saving of labour to the cook or scullery-maid4 ,care should be taken that the lids fit tight and close1 so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation4 ,they should be made to keep the steam in and the smoke out1 and should always be bright on the upper rim1 where they do not immediately come in contact with the fire4 ,soup-pots and kettles should be washed immediately ,after being used1 and dried before the fire1 and they should be kept in a dry place1 in order that they may escape the deteriorating influence of rust1 and1 thereby1 be destroyed4 ,copper utensils should never be used in the kitchen unless tinned1 and the utmost care should be taken1 not to let the tin be rubbed off4 ,if by chance this should occur1 have it replaced before the vessel is again brought into use4 ,neither soup nor gravy should1 at any time1 be suffered to remain in them longer than is absolutely necessary1 as any fat or acid that is in them1 may affect the metal1 so as to impregnate with poison what is intended to be eaten4 ,stone and earthenware vessels should be provided for soups and gravies not intended for immediate use1 and1 also1 plenty of common dishes for the larder1 that the table-set may not be used for such purposes4 ,it is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour1 when they are apt to corrode glazed red-ware1 and even metals1 and frequently1 thereby1 to become impregnated with poisonous particles4 ,the vinegar also in pickles1 by its acidity1 does the same4 ,consideration1 therefore1 should be given to these facts1 and great care also taken that all sieves1 jelly-bags1 and tapes for collared articles1 be well scalded and kept dry1 or they will impart an unpleasant flavour when next used4 ,to all these directions the cook should pay great attention1 nor should they1 by any means1 be neglected by the mistress of the household1 who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen gives health and happiness to home1 whilst economy will immeasurably assist in preserving them4 #gc4 ,,without ,,fuel1 ,a ,,kitchen might be pronounced to be of little use2 therefore1 to discover and invent materials for supplying us with the means of domestic heat and comfort1 has exercised the ingenuity of man4 ,those now known have been divided into five classes2 the first comprehending the fluid inflammable bodies2 the second1 peat or turf2 the third1 charcoal of wood2 the fourth1 pit-coal charred2 and the fifth1 wood or pit-coal in a crude state1 with the capacity of yielding a copious and bright flame4 ,the first may be said seldom to be employed for the purposes of cookery2 but peat1 especially amongst rural populations1 has1 in all ages1 been regarded as an excellent fuel4 ,it is one of the most important productions of an alluvial soil1 and belongs to the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom4 ,it may be described as composed of wet1 spongy black earth1 held together by decayed vegetables4 ,formerly it covered extensive tracts in ,england1 but has greatly disappeared before the genius of agricultural improvement4 ,charcoal is a kind of artificial coal1 used principally where a strong and clear fire is desired4 ,it is a black1 brittle1 insoluble1 inodorous1 tasteless substance1 and1 when newly-made1 possesses the remarkable property of absorbing certain quantities of the different gases4 ,its dust1 when used as a polishing powder1 gives great brilliancy to metals4 ,it consists of wood half-burned1 and is manufactured by cutting pieces of timber into nearly the same size1 then disposing them in heaps1 and covering them with earth1 so as to prevent communication with the air1 except when necessary to make them burn4 ,when they have been sufficiently charred1 the fire is extinguished by stopping the vents through which the air is admitted4 ,of coal there are various species2 as1 pit1 culm1 slate1 cannel1 ,kilkenny1 sulphurous1 bovey1 jet1 c4 ,these have all their specific differences1 and are employed for various purposes2 but are all1 more or less1 used as fuel4 ,the use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the ,romans4 ,in ,britain it was discovered about fifty years before the birth of ,christ1 in ,lancashire1 not tar from where ,manchester now stands2 but for ages after its discovery1 so long as forests abounded1 wood continued to be the fuel used for firing4 ,the first public notice of coal is in the reign of ,henry ,,iii41 who1 in #abgb1 granted a charter to the town of ,newcastle1 permitting the inhabitants to dig for coal4 ,it took some centuries more1 however1 to bring it into common use1 as this did not take place till about the first quarter of the seventeenth century1 in the time of ,charles ,i4 ,a few years after the ,restoration1 we find that about #bjj1jjj chaldrons were consumed in ,london4 ,although several countries possess mines of coal1 the quality of their mineral is1 in general1 greatly inferior to that of ,great ,britain1 where it is found mostly in undulating districts abounding with valleys1 and interspersed with plains of considerable extent4 ,it lies usually between the strata of other substances1 and rarely in an horizontal position1 but with a dip or inclination to one side4 ,our cut1 ,fig4 #ba1 represents a section of coal as it is found in the stratum4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 #gd4 ,,to ,,be ,,acquainted ,,with ,,the ,,periods when things are in season1 is one of the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the ,art of ,cookery4 ,we have1 therefore1 compiled the following list1 which will serve to show for every month in the year the ,,times ,,when ,,things ,,are ,,in ,,season4 ,,january4 ,,fish4--,barbel1 brill1 carp1 cod1 crabs1 crayfish1 dace1 eels1 flounders1 haddocks1 herrings1 lampreys1 lobsters1 mussels1 oysters1 perch1 pike1 plaice1 prawns1 shrimps1 skate1 smelts1 soles1 sprats1 sturgeon1 tench1 thornback1 turbot1 whitings4 ,,meat4--,beef1 house lamb1 mutton1 pork1 veal1 venison4 ,,poultry4--,capons1 fowls1 tame pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits1 turkeys4 ,,game4--,grouse1 hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipe1 wild-fowl1 woodcock4 ,,vegetables4--,beetroot1 broccoli1 cabbages1 carrots1 celery1 chervil1 cresses1 cucumbers 7forced71 endive1 lettuces1 parsnips1 potatoes1 savoys1 spinach1 turnips1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 grapes1 medlars1 nuts1 oranges1 pears1 walnuts1 crystallized preserves 7foreign71 dried fruits1 such as almonds and raisins2 ,french and ,spanish plums2 prunes1 figs1 dates4 ,,february4 ,,fish4--,barbel1 brill1 carp1 cod may be bought1 but is not so good as in ,january1 crabs1 crayfish1 dace1 eels1 flounders1 haddocks1 herrings1 lampreys1 lobsters1 mussels1 oysters1 perch1 pike1 plaice1 prawns1 shrimps1 skate1 smelts1 soles1 sprats1 sturgeon1 tench1 thornback1 turbot1 whiting4 ,,meat4--,beef1 house lamb1 mutton1 pork1 veal4 ,,poultry4--,capons1 chickens1 ducklings1 tame and wild pigeons1 pullets with eggs1 turkeys1 wild-fowl1 though now not in full season4 ,,game4--,grouse1 hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipes1 woodcock4 ,,vegetables4--,beetroot1 broccoli 7purple and white71 ,brussels sprouts1 cabbages1 carrots1 celery1 chervil1 cresses1 cucumbers 7forced71 endive1 kidney-beans1 lettuces1 parsnips1 potatoes1 savoys1 spinach1 turnips1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples 7golden and ,dutch pippins71 grapes1 medlars1 nuts1 oranges1 pears 7,bon ,chrtien71 walnuts1 dried fruits 7foreign71 such as almonds and raisins2 ,french and ,spanish plums2 prunes1 figs1 dates1 crystallized preserves4 ,,march4 ,,fish4--,barbel1 brill1 carp1 crabs1 crayfish1 dace1 eels1 flounders1 haddocks1 herrings1 lampreys1 lobsters1 mussels1 oysters1 perch1 pike1 plaice1 prawns1 shrimps1 skate1 smelts1 soles1 sprats1 sturgeon1 tench1 thornback1 turbot1 whiting4 ,,meat4--,beef1 house lamb1 mutton1 pork1 veal4 ,,poultry4--,capons1 chickens1 ducklings1 tame and wild pigeons1 pullets with eggs1 turkeys1 wild-fowl1 though now not in full season4 ,,game4--,grouse1 hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipes1 woodcock4 ,,vegetables4--,beetroot1 broccoli 7purple and white71 ,brussels sprouts1 cabbages1 carrots1 celery1 chervil1 cresses1 cucumbers 7forced71 endive1 kidney-beans1 lettuces1 parsnips1 potatoes1 savoys1 sea-kale1 spinach1 turnips1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples 7golden and ,dutch pippins71 grapes1 medlars1 nuts1 oranges1 pears 7,bon ,chrtien71 walnuts1 dried fruits 7foreign71 such as almonds and raisins2 ,french and ,spanish plums2 prunes1 figs1 dates1 crystallized preserves4 ,,april4 ,,fish4--,brill1 carp1 cockles1 crabs1 dory1 flounders1 ling1 lobsters1 red and gray mullet1 mussels1 oysters1 perch1 prawns1 salmon 7but rather scarce and expensive71 shad1 shrimps1 skate1 smelts1 soles1 tench1 turbot1 whitings4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducklings1 fowls1 leverets1 pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits4 ,,game4--,hares4 ,,vegetables4--,broccoli1 celery1 lettuces1 young onions1 parsnips1 radishes1 small salad1 sea-kale1 spinach1 sprouts1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 nuts1 pears1 forced cherries1 e4 for tarts1 rhubarb1 dried fruits1 crystallized preserves4 ,,may4 ,,fish4--,carp1 chub1 crabs1 crayfish1 dory1 herrings1 lobsters1 mackerel1 red and gray mullet1 prawns1 salmon1 shad1 smelts1 soles1 trout1 turbot4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducklings1 fowls1 green geese1 leverets1 pullets1 rabbits4 ,,vegetables4--,asparagus1 beans1 early cabbages1 carrots1 cauliflowers1 creases1 cucumbers1 lettuces1 pease1 early potatoes1 salads1 sea-kale1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 green apricots1 cherries1 currants for tarts1 gooseberries1 melons1 pears1 rhubarb1 strawberries4 ,,june4 ,,fish4--,carp1 crayfish1 herrings1 lobsters1 mackerel1 mullet1 pike1 prawns1 salmon1 soles1 tench1 trout1 turbot4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal1 buck venison4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducklings1 fowls1 green geese1 leverets1 plovers1 pullets1 rabbits1 turkey poults1 wheatears4 ,,vegetables4--,artichokes1 asparagus1 beans1 cabbages1 carrots1 cucumbers1 lettuces1 onions1 parsnips1 pease1 potatoes1 radishes1 small salads1 sea-kale1 spinach1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apricots1 cherries1 currants1 gooseberries1 melons1 nectarines1 peaches1 pears1 pineapples1 raspberries1 rhubarb1 strawberries4 ,,july4 ,,fish4--,carp1 crayfish1 dory1 flounders1 haddocks1 herrings1 lobsters1 mackerel1 mullet1 pike1 plaice1 prawns1 salmon1 shrimps1 soles1 sturgeon1 tench1 thornback4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal1 buck venison4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducklings1 fowls1 green geese1 leverets1 plovers1 pullets1 rabbits1 turkey poults1 wheatears1 wild ducks 7called flappers74 ,,vegetables4--,artichokes1 asparagus1 beans1 cabbages1 carrots1 cauliflowers1 celery1 cresses1 endive1 lettuces1 mushrooms1 onions1 pease1 radishes1 small salading1 sea-kale1 sprouts1 turnips1 vegetable marrow1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apricots1 cherries1 currants1 figs1 gooseberries1 melons1 nectarines1 pears1 pineapples1 plums1 raspberries1 strawberries1 walnuts in high season1 and pickled4 ,,august4 ,,fish4--,brill1 carp1 chub1 crayfish1 crabs1 dory1 eels1 flounders1 grigs1 herrings1 lobsters1 mullet1 pike1 prawns1 salmon1 shrimps1 skate1 soles1 sturgeon1 thornback1 trout1 turbot4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal1 buck venison4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducklings1 fowls1 green geese1 pigeons1 plovers1 pullets1 rabbits1 turkey poults1 wheatears1 wild ducks4 ,,game4--,leverets1 grouse1 blackcock4 ,,vegetables4--,artichokes1 asparagus1 beans1 carrots1 cabbages1 cauliflowers1 celery1 cresses1 endive1 lettuces1 mushrooms1 onions1 pease1 potatoes1 radishes1 sea-bale1 small salading1 sprouts1 turnips1 various kitchen herbs1 vegetable marrows4 ,,fruit4--,currants1 figs1 filberts1 gooseberries1 grapes1 melons1 mulberries1 nectarines1 peaches1 pears1 pineapples1 plums1 raspberries1 walnuts4 ,,september4 ,,fish4--,brill1 carp1 cod1 eels1 flounders1 lobsters1 mullet1 oysters1 plaice1 prawns1 skate1 soles1 turbot1 whiting1 whitebait4 ,,meat4--,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 pork1 veal4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 ducks1 fowls1 geese1 larks1 pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits1 teal1 turkeys4 ,,game4--,blackcock1 buck venison1 grouse1 hares1 partridges1 pheasants4 ,,vegetables4--,artichokes1 asparagus1 beans1 cabbage sprouts1 carrots1 celery1 lettuces1 mushrooms1 onions1 pease1 potatoes1 salading1 sea-kale1 sprouts1 tomatoes1 turnips1 vegetable marrows1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,bullaces1 damsons1 figs1 filberts1 grapes1 melons1 morella-cherries1 mulberries1 nectarines1 peaches1 pears1 plums1 quinces1 walnuts4 ,,october4 ,,fish4--,barbel1 brill1 cod1 crabs1 eels1 flounders1 gudgeons1 haddocks1 lobsters1 mullet1 oysters1 plaice1 prawns1 skate1 soles1 tench1 turbot1 whiting4 ,,meat4--,beef1 mutton1 pork1 veal1 venison4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 fowls1 geese1 larks1 pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits1 teal1 turkeys1 widgeons1 wild ducks4 ,,game4--,blackcock1 grouse1 hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipes1 woodcocks1 doe venison4 ,,vegetables4--,artichokes1 beets1 cabbages1 cauliflowers1 carrots1 celery1 lettuces1 mushrooms1 onions1 potatoes1 sprouts1 tomatoes1 turnips1 vegetable marrows1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 black and white bullaces1 damsons1 figs1 filberts1 grapes1 pears1 quinces1 walnuts4 ,,november4 ,,fish4--,brill1 carp1 cod1 crabs1 eels1 gudgeons1 haddocks1 oysters1 pike1 soles1 tench1 turbot1 whiting4 ,,meat4--,beef1 mutton1 veal1 doe venison4 ,,poultry4--,chickens1 fowls1 geese1 larks1 pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits1 teal1 turkeys1 widgeons1 wild duck4 ,,game4--,hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipes1 woodcocks4 ,,vegetables4--,beetroot1 cabbages1 carrots1 celery1 lettuces1 late cucumbers1 onions1 potatoes1 salading1 spinach1 sprouts1--various herbs4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 bullaces1 chestnuts1 filberts1 grapes1 pears1 walnuts4 ,,december4 ,,fish4--,barbel1 brill1 carp1 cod1 crabs1 eels1 dace1 gudgeons1 haddocks1 herrings1 lobsters1 oysters1 porch1 pike1 shrimps1 skate1 sprats1 soles1 tench1 thornback1 turbot1 whiting4 ,,meat4--,beef1 house lamb1 mutton1 pork1 venison4 ,,poultry4--,capons1 chickens1 fowls1 geese1 pigeons1 pullets1 rabbits1 teal1 turkeys1 widgeons1 wild ducks4 ,,game4--,hares1 partridges1 pheasants1 snipes1 woodcocks4 ,,vegetables4--,broccoli1 cabbages1 carrots1 celery1 leeks1 onions1 potatoes1 parsnips1 ,scotch kale1 turnips1 winter spinach4 ,,fruit4--,apples1 chestnuts1 filberts1 grapes1 medlars1 oranges1 pears1 walnuts1 dried fruits1 such as almonds and raisins1 figs1 dates1 c41--crystallized preserves4 #ge4 ,,when ,,fuel ,,and ,,food ,,are ,,procured1 the next consideration is1 how the latter may be best preserved1 with a view to its being suitably dressed4 ,more waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment1 or of necessary care in this particular1 than by any other cause4 ,in the absence of proper places for keeping provisions1 a hanging safe1 suspended in an airy situation1 is the best substitute4 ,a well-ventilated larder1 dry and shady1 is better for meat and poultry1 which require to be kept for some time2 and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of proper attention to this particular4 ,though it is advisable that annual food should be hung up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness1 yet1 if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness1 its flavour has become deteriorated1 and1 as a wholesome comestible1 it has lost many of its qualities conducive to health4 ,as soon1 therefore1 as the slightest trace of putrescence is detected1 it has reached its highest degree of tenderness1 and should be dressed immediately4 ,during the sultry summer months1 it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or tainted4 ,it should1 therefore1 be well examined when it comes in1 and if flies have touched it1 the part must be cut off1 and the remainder well washed4 ,in very cold weather1 meat and vegetables touched by the frost1 should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning1 and soaked in cold water4 ,in loins of meat1 the long pipe that runs by the bone should be taken out1 as it is apt to taint2 as also the kernels of beef4 ,rumps and edgebones of beef1 when bruised1 should not be purchased4 ,all these things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager1 and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away1 or suffered to be wasted in the kitchen1 which might1 by proper management1 be turned to a good account4 ,the shank-bones of mutton1 so little esteemed in general1 give richness to soups or gravies1 if well soaked and brushed before they are added to the boiling4 ,they are also particularly nourishing for sick persons4 ,roast-beef bones1 or shank-bones of ham1 make excellent stock for pea-soup4--,when the whites of eggs are used for jelly1 confectionary1 or other purposes1 a pudding or a custard should be made1 that the yolks may be used4 ,all things likely to be wanted should be in readiness3 sugars of different sorts2 currants washed1 picked1 and perfectly dry2 spices pounded1 and kept in very small bottles closely corked1 or in canisters1 as we have already directed 7#gb74 ,not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to be used in the course of a month4 ,much waste is always prevented by keeping every article in the place best suited to it4 ,vegetables keep best on a stone floor1 if the air be excluded2 meat1 in a cold dry place2 as also salt1 sugar1 sweet-meats1 candles1 dried meats1 and hams4 ,rice1 and all sorts of seed for puddings1 should be closely covered to preserve them from insects2 but even this will not prevent them from being affected by these destroyers1 if they are long and carelessly kept4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,introduction ,,to ,,cookery4 #gf4 ,,as ,,in ,,the ,,fine ,,arts1 the progress of mankind from barbarism to civilization is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude materialities of nature1 so in the art of cookery is the progress gradual from the earliest and simplest modes1 to those of the most complicated and refined4 ,plain or rudely-carved stones1 tumuli1 or mounds of earth1 are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the events of their history1 to be succeeded1 only in the long course of a series of ages1 by beautifully-proportioned columns1 gracefully-sculptured statues1 triumphal arches1 coins1 medals1 and the higher efforts of the pencil and the pen1 as man advances by culture and observation to the perfection of his facilities4 ,so is it with the art of cookery4 ,man1 in his primitive state1 lives upon roots and the fruits of the earth1 until1 by degrees1 he is driven to seek for new means1 by which his wants may be supplied and enlarged4 ,he then becomes a hunter and a fisher4 ,as his species increases1 greater necessities come upon him1 when he gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the more stationary pursuits of the herdsman4 ,these beget still more settled habits1 when he begins the practice of agriculture1 forms ideas of the rights of property1 and has his own1 both defined and secured4 ,the forest1 the stream1 and the sea are now no longer his only resources for food4 ,he sows and he reaps1 pastures and breeds cattle1 lives on the cultivated produce of his fields1 and revels in the luxuries of the dairy2 raises flocks for clothing1 and assumes1 to all intents and purposes1 the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of a farmer4 ,this is the fourth stage of social progress1 up to which the useful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves1 when trade and commerce begin4 ,through these various phases1 only to live has been the great object of mankind2 but1 by-and-by1 comforts are multiplied1 and accumulating riches create new wants4 ,the object1 then1 is not only to live1 but to live economically1 agreeably1 tastefully1 and well4 ,accordingly1 the art of cookery commences2 and although the fruits of the earth1 the fowls of the air1 the beasts of the field1 and the fish of the sea1 are still the only food of mankind1 yet these are so prepared1 improved1 and dressed by skill and ingenuity1 that they are the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyments4 ,everything that is edible1 and passes under the hands of the cook1 is more or less changed1 and assumes new forms4 ,hence the influence of that functionary is immense upon the happiness of a household4 #gg4 ,in order that the duties of the ,cook may be properly performed1 and that he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty1 all terms of indecision should be banished from his art4 ,accordingly1 what is known only to him1 will1 in these pages1 be made known to others4 ,in them all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this1 some of that1 a small piece of that1 and a handful of the other1 shall never be made use of1 but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated4 ,with a desire1 also1 that all ignorance on this most essential part of the culinary art should disappear1 and that a uniform system of weights and measures should be adopted1 we give an account of the weights which answer to certain measures4 ,a ,,table-,,spoonful is frequently mentioned in a recipe1 in the prescriptions of medical men1 and also in medical1 chemical1 and gastronomical works4 ,by it is generally meant and understood a measure or bulk equal to that which would be produced by half an ounce of water4 ,a ,,dessert-,,spoonful is the half of a table-spoonful2 that is to say1 by it is meant a measure or bulk equal to a quarter of an ounce of water4 ,a ,,tea-,,spoonful is equal in quantity to a drachm of water4 ,a ,,drop4--,this is the name of a vague kind of measure1 and is so called on account of the liquid being dropped from the mouth of a bottle4 ,its quantity1 however1 will vary1 either from the consistency of the liquid or the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle4 ,the ,college of ,physicians determined the quantity of a drop to be one grain1 #fj drops making one fluid drachm4 ,their drop1 or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm1 is called a minim4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,graduated class measures can be obtained at any chemist's1 and they save much trouble4 ,one of these1 containing a wine pint1 is divided into #af oz41 and the oz1 into #h drachms of water2 by which1 any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be accurately measured out4 ,home-made measures of this kind can readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given measure1 and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies4 ,this mark can easily be made with a file4 ,it will be interesting to many readers to know the basis on which the ,french found their system of weights and measures1 for it certainly possesses the grandeur of simplicity4 ,the metre1 which is the basis of the whole system of ,french weights and measures1 is the exact measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the earth4 #gh4 ,,excellence ,,in ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,cookery1 as in all other things1 is only attainable by practice and experience4 ,in proportion1 therefore1 to the opportunities which a cook has had of these1 so will be his excellence in the art4 ,it is in the large establishments of princes1 noblemen1 and very affluent families alone1 that the man cook is found in this country4 ,he1 also1 superintends the kitchens of large hotels1 clubs1 and public institutions1 where he1 usually1 makes out the bills of fare1 which are generally submitted to the principal for approval4 ,to be able to do this1 therefore1 it is absolutely necessary that he should be a judge of the season of every dish1 as well as know perfectly the state of every article he undertakes to prepare4 ,he must also be a judge of every article he buys2 for no skill1 however great it may be1 will enable him to1 make that good which is really bad4 ,on him rests the responsibility of the cooking generally1 whilst a speciality of his department1 is to prepare the rich soups1 stews1 ragouts1 and such dishes as enter into the more refined and complicated portions of his art1 and such as are not usually understood by ordinary professors4 ,he1 therefore1 holds a high position in a household1 being inferior in rank1 as already shown 7#ba71 only to the house steward1 the valet1 and the butler4 ,in the luxurious ages of ,grecian antiquity1 ,sicilian cooks were the most esteemed1 and received high rewards for their services4 ,among them1 one called ,trimalcio was such an adept in his art1 that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes4 ,a chief cook in the palmy days of ,roman voluptuousness had about #hjj a year1 and ,antony rewarded the one that cooked the supper which pleased ,cleopatra1 with the present of a city4 ,with the fall of the empire1 the culinary art sank into less consideration4 ,in the middle ages1 cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their sauces1 which they composed of strange combinations1 for the sake of novelty1 as well as singularity4 #gi4 ,,the ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,cook1 ,,the ,,kitchen ,,and ,,the ,,scullery ,,maids1 are so intimately associated1 that they can hardly be treated of separately4 ,the cook1 however1 is at the head of the kitchen2 and in proportion to her possession of the qualities of cleanliness1 neatness1 order1 regularity1 and celerity of action1 so will her influence appear in the conduct of those who are under her2 as it is upon her that the whole responsibility of the business of the kitchen rests1 whilst the others must lend her1 both a ready and a willing assistance1 and be especially tidy in their appearance1 and active1 in their movements4 ,in the larger establishments of the middle ages1 cooks1 with the authority of feudal chiefs1 gave their orders from a high chair in which they ensconced themselves1 and commanded a view of all that was going on throughout their several domains4 ,each held a long wooden spoon1 with which he tasted1 without leaving his seat1 the various comestibles that were cooking on the stoves1 and which he frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated over their diligence and temperance4 #hj4 ,,if1 ,,as ,,we ,,have ,,said 7#c71 ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,early ,,rising be of the first importance to the mistress1 what must it be to the servant6 ,let it1 therefore1 be taken as a long-proved truism1 that without it1 in every domestic1 the effect of all things else1 so far as work is concerned1 may1 in a great measure1 be neutralized4 ,in a cook1 this quality is most essential2 for an hour lost in the morning1 will keep her toiling1 absolutely toiling1 all day1 to overtake that which might otherwise have been achieved with ease4 ,in large establishments1 six is a good hour to rise in the summer1 and seven in the winter4 #ha4 ,,her ,,first ,,duty1 in large establishments and where it is requisite1 should be to set her dough for the breakfast rolls1 provided this has not been done on the previous night1 and then to engage herself with those numerous little preliminary occupations which may not inappropriately be termed laying out her duties for the day4 ,this will bring in the breakfast hour of eight1 after which1 directions must be given1 and preparations made1 for the different dinners of the household and family4 #hb4 ,,in ,,those ,,numerous ,,households where a cook and housemaid are only kept1 the general custom is1 that the cook should have the charge of the dining-room4 ,the hall1 the lamps and the doorstep are also committed to her care1 and any other work there may be on the outside of the house4 ,in establishments of this kind1 the cook will1 after having lighted her kitchen fire1 carefully brushed the range1 and cleaned the hearth1 proceed to prepare for breakfast4 ,she will thoroughly rinse the kettle1 and1 filling it with fresh water1 will put it on the fire to boil4 ,she will then go to the breakfast-room1 or parlour1 and there make all things ready for the breakfast of the family4 ,her attention will next be directed to the hall1 which she will sweep and wipe2 the kitchen stairs1 if there be any1 will now be swept2 and the hall mats1 which have been removed and shaken1 will be again put in their places4 ,the cleaning of the kitchen1 pantry1 passages1 and kitchen stairs must always be over before breakfast1 so that it may not interfere with the other business of the day4 ,everything should be ready1 and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect when the heads of the house and members of the family make their appearance4 ,nothing1 it may be depended on1 will so please the mistress of an establishment1 as to notice that1 although she has not been present to see that the work was done1 attention to smaller matters has been carefully paid1 with a view to giving her satisfaction and increasing her comfort4 #hc4 ,,by ,,the ,,time ,,that ,,the ,,cook has performed the duties mentioned above1 and well swept1 brushed1 and dusted her kitchen1 the breakfast-bell will most likely summon her to the parlour1 to bring in the breakfast4 ,it is the cook's department1 generally1 in the smaller establishments1 to wait at breakfast1 as the housemaid1 by this time1 has gone up-stairs into the bedrooms1 and has there applied herself to her various duties4 ,the cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the early part of the morning1 as the tradesmen1 with whom it is her more special business to speak1 call at these hours4 #hd4 ,,it ,,is ,,in ,,her ,,preparation ,,of ,,the ,,dinner that the cook begins to feel the weight and responsibility of her situation1 as she must take upon herself all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes1 which her skill and ingenuity have mostly prepared4 ,whilst these1 however1 are cooking1 she must be busy with her pastry1 soups1 gravies1 ragouts1 c4 ,stock1 or what the ,french call consomm1 being the basis of most made dishes1 must be always at hand1 in conjunction with her sweet herbs and spices for seasoning4 ,a place for everything1 and everything in its place1 must be her rule1 in order that time may not be wasted in looking for things when they are wanted1 and in order that the whole apparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-adjusted machine2--all must go on simultaneously4 ,the vegetables and sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany1 and in order that they may be suitable1 the smallest oversight must not be made in their preparation4 ,when the dinner-hour has arrived1 it is the duty of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may1 without injury1 stand1 for some time1 covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet2 but such as are of a more important or recherch kind1 must be delayed until the order to serve is given from the drawing-room4 ,then comes haste2 but there must be no hurry1--all must work with order4 ,the cook takes charge of the fish1 soups1 and poultry2 and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables1 sauces1 and gravies4 ,these she puts into their appropriate dishes1 whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook4 ,everything must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold1 whilst great care should be taken1 that1 between the first and second courses1 no more time is allowed to elapse than is necessary1 for fear that the company in the dining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner4 ,when the dinner has been served1 the most important feature in the daily life of the cook is at an end4 ,she must1 however1 now begin to look to the contents of her larder1 taking care to keep everything sweet and clean1 so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies1 milk1 or meat that may be there4 ,these are the principal duties of a cook in a first-rate establishment4 ,in smaller establishments1 the housekeeper often conducts the higher department of cooking 7see #eh1 #ei1 #fj71 and the cook1 with the assistance of a scullery-maid1 performs some of the subordinate duties of the kitchen-maid4 ,when circumstances render it necessary1 the cook engages to perform the whole of the work of the kitchen1 and1 in some places1 a portion of the house-work also4 #he4 ,,whilst ,,the ,,cook ,,is ,,engaged ,,with ,,her ,,morning ,,duties1 the kitchen-maid is also occupied with hers4 ,her first duty1 after the fire is lighted1 is to sweep and clean the kitchen1 and the various offices belonging to it4 ,this she does every morning1 besides cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house1 the halls1 the passages1 and the stairs which lead to the kitchen4 ,her general duties1 besides these1 are to wash and scour all these places twice a week1 with the tables1 shelves1 and cupboards4 ,she has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners1 to prepare all fish1 poultry1 and vegetables1 trim meat joints and cutlets1 and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into the cook's department in a subordinate degree4 #hf4 ,,the ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,scullery-,,maid are to assist the cook2 to keep the scullery clean1 and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchen utensils4 ,the position of scullery-maid is not1 of course1 one of high rank1 nor is the payment for her services large4 ,but if she be fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever cook1 she may very soon learn to perform various little duties connected with cooking operations1 which may be of considerable service in fitting her for a more responsible place4 ,now1 it will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers1 that the fascinations connected with the position of the scullery-maid1 are not so great as to induce many people to leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery4 ,but we are acquainted with one instance in which the desire1 on the part of a young girl1 was so strong to become connected with the kitchen and cookery1 that she absolutely left her parents1 and engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house4 ,here she showed herself so active and intelligent1 that she very quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid2 and from this1 so great was her gastronomical genius1 she became1 in a short space of time1 one of the best women-cooks in ,england4 ,after this1 we think1 it must be allowed1 that a cook1 like a poet1 nascitur1 non fit4 #hg4 ,,modern ,,cookery stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic propensities of our ,french neighbours1 that many of their terms are adopted and applied by ,english artists to the same as well as similar preparations of their own4 ,a vocabulary of these is1 therefore1 indispensable in a work of this kind4 ,accordingly1 the following will be found sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes3-- ,,explanation ,,of ,,french ,,terms ,,used ,,in ,,modern ,,household ,,cookery4 ,,aspic4--,a savoury jelly1 used as an exterior moulding for cold game1 poultry1 fish1 c4 ,this1 being of a transparent nature1 allows the bird which it covers to be seen through it4 ,this may also be used for decorating or garnishing4 ,,assiette 7plate74--,assiettes are the small entres and hors-d'oeuvres1 the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold4 ,at dessert1 fruits1 cheese1 chestnuts1 biscuits1 c41 if served upon a plate1 are termed assiettes4--,,assiette ,,volante is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests1 but is not placed upon the table4 ,small cheese souffls and different dishes1 which ought to be served very hot1 are frequently made assielles volantes4 ,,au-,,bleu4--,fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance4 ,,bain-,,marie4--,an open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water1 in which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming4 ,this is very useful for keeping articles hot1 without altering their quantity or quality4 ,if you keep sauce1 broth1 or soup by the fireside1 the soup reduces and becomes too strong1 and the sauce thickens as well as reduces2 but this is prevented by using the bain-marie1 in which the water should be very hot1 but not boiling4 ,b,,chamel4--,french white sauce1 now frequently used in ,english cookery4 ,,blanch4--,to whiten poultry1 vegetables1 fruit1 c41 by plunging them into boiling water for a short time1 and afterwards plunging them into cold water1 there to remain until they are cold4 ,,blanquette4--,a sort of fricassee4 ,,bouilli4--,beef or other meat boiled2 but1 generally speaking1 boiled beef is understood by the term4 ,,bouillie4--,a ,french dish resembling hasty-pudding4 ,,bouillon4--,a thin broth or soup4 ,,braise4--,to stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender1 it having previously been blanched4 ,,braisi,,re4--,a saucepan having a lid with ledges1 to put fire on the top4 ,,brider4--,to pass a packthread through poultry1 game1 c41 to keep together their members4 ,,caramel 7burnt sugar74--,this is made with a piece of sugar1 of the size of a nut1 browned in the bottom of a saucepan2 upon which a cupful of stock is gradually poured1 stirring all the time a glass of broth1 little by little4 ,it may be used with the feather of a quill1 to colour meats1 such as the upper part of fricandeaux2 and to impart colour to sauces4 ,caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour comptes and other entremets4 ,,casserole4--,a crust of rice1 which1 after having been moulded into the form of a pie1 is baked1 and then filled with a fricassee of white meat or a pure of game4 ,,compote4--,a stew1 as of fruit or pigeons4 ,,consomm4--,rich stock1 or gravy4 ,,croquette4--,ball of fried rice or potatoes4 ,,croutons4--,sippets of bread4 ,,daubi,,re4--,an oval stewpan1 in which daubes are cooked2 daubes being meat or fowl stewed in sauce4 ,d,,sosser4--,to bone1 or take out the bones from poultry1 game1 or fish4 ,this is an operation requiring considerable experience4 ,,entr,,es4--,small side or corner dishes1 served with the first course4 ,,entremets4--,small side or corner dishes1 served with the second course4 ,,escalopes4--,collops2 small1 round1 thin pieces of tender meat1 or of fish1 beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender4 ,,feuilletage4--,puff-paste4 ,,flamber4--,to singe fowl or game1 after they have been picked4 ,,foncer4--,to put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham1 veal1 or thin broad slices of bacon4 ,,galette4--,a broad thin cake4 ,g,,teau4--,a cake1 correctly speaking2 but used sometimes to denote a pudding and a kind of tart4 ,,glacer4--,to glaze1 or spread upon hot meats1 or larded fowl1 a thick and rich sauce or gravy1 called glaze4 ,this is laid on with a feather or brush1 and in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry with sugar1 which glistens on hardening4 ,,hors-,d',,oeuvres4--,small dishes1 or assiettes volantes of sardines1 anchovies1 and other relishes of this kind1 served to the guests during the first course4 7,see ,,assiettes ,,volantes47 ,,lit4--,a bed or layer2 articles in thin slices are placed in layers1 other articles1 or seasoning1 being laid between them4 ,,maigre4--,broth1 soup1 or gravy1 made without meat4 ,,matelote4--,a rich fish-stew1 which is generally composed of carp1 eels1 trout1 or barbel4 ,it is made with wine4 ,,mayonnaise4--,cold sauce1 or salad dressing4 ,,menu4--,the bill of fare4 ,,meringue4--,a kind of icing1 made of whites of eggs and sugar1 well beaten4 ,,miroton4--,larger slices of meat than collops2 such as slices of beef for a vinaigrette1 or ragout or stew of onions4 ,,mouiller4--,to add water1 broth1 or other liquid1 during the cooking4 ,,paner4--,to cover over with very fine crumbs of bread1 meats1 or any other articles to be cooked on the gridiron1 in the oven1 or frying-pan4 ,,piquer4--,to lard with strips of fat bacon1 poultry1 game1 meat1 c4 ,this should always be done according to the vein of the meat1 so that in carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat4 ,,po,l,e4--,stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys1 sweetbreads1 fowls1 and vegetables1 to render them less insipid4 ,this is rather an expensive preparation4 ,,pur,e4--,vegetables1 or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp1 which is afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of very thick soup4 ,,ragout4--,stew or hash4 ,,remoulade4--,salad dressing4 ,,rissoles4--,pastry1 made of light puff-paste1 and cut into various forms1 and fried4 ,they may be filled with fish1 meat1 or sweets4 ,,roux4--,brown and white2 ,french thickening4 ,,salmi4--,ragout of game previously roasted4 ,,sauce ,,piquante4--,a sharp sauce1 in which somewhat of a vinegar flavour predominates4 ,,sauter4--,to dress with sauce in a saucepan1 repeatedly moving it about4 ,,tamis4--,tammy1 a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain broth and sauces1 so as to rid them of small bones1 froth1 c4 ,,tourte4--,tart4 ,fruit pie4 ,,trousser4--,to truss a bird2 to put together the body and tie the wings and thighs1 in order to round it for roasting or boiling1 each being tied then with packthread1 to keep it in the required form4 ,,vol-,,au-,,vent4--,a rich crust of very fine puff-paste1 which may be filled with various delicate ragouts or fricassees1 of fish1 flesh1 or fowl4 ,fruit may also be inclosed in a vol-au-vent4 ,illustration ,,soups4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,soups4 #hh4 ,,lean1 ,,juicy ,,beef1 ,,mutton1 ,,and ,,veal1 form the basis of all good soups2 therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford the richest succulence1 and such as are fresh-killed4 ,stale meat renders them bad1 and fat is not so well adapted for making them4 ,the principal art in composing good rich soup1 is so to proportion the several ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another1 and that all the articles of which it is composed1 shall form an agreeable whole4 ,to accomplish this1 care must be taken that the roots and herbs are perfectly well cleaned1 and that the water is proportioned to the quantity of meat and other ingredients4 ,generally a quart of water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups1 and half the quantity for gravies4 ,in making soups or gravies1 gentle stewing or simmering is incomparably the best4 ,it may be remarked1 however1 that a really good soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel1 although1 perhaps1 greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air4 ,soups will1 in general1 take from three to six hours doing1 and are much better prepared the day before they are wanted4 ,when the soup is cold1 the fat may be much more easily and completely removed2 and when it is poured off1 care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel1 which are so fine that they will escape through a sieve4 ,a tamis is the best strainer1 and if the soup is strained while it is hot1 let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water4 ,clear soups must be perfectly transparent1 and thickened soups about the consistence of cream4 ,to thicken and give body to soups and gravies1 potato-mucilage1 arrow-root1 bread-raspings1 isinglass1 flour and butter1 barley1 rice1 or oatmeal1 in a little water rubbed well together1 are used4 ,a piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp1 with a bit of butter and flour1 and rubbed through a sieve1 and gradually incorporated with the soup1 will be found an excellent addition4 ,when the soup appears to be too thin or too weak1 the cover of the boiler should be taken off1 and the contents allowed to boil till some of the watery parts have evaporated2 or some of the thickening materials1 above mentioned1 should be added4 ,when soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot weather1 they should be warmed up every day1 and put into fresh scalded pans or tureens1 and placed in a cool cellar4 ,in temperate weather1 every other day may be sufficient4 #hi4 ,,various ,,herbs ,,and ,,vegetables are required for the purpose of making soups and gravies4 ,of these the principal are1--,scotch barley1 pearl barley1 wheat flour1 oatmeal1 bread-raspings1 pease1 beans1 rice1 vermicelli1 macaroni1 isinglass1 potato-mucilage1 mushroom or mushroom ketchup1 champignons1 parsnips1 carrots1 beetroot1 turnips1 garlic1 shalots1 and onions4 ,sliced onions1 fried with butter and flour till they are browned1 and then rubbed through a sieve1 are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces1 and form the basis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook4 ,the older and drier the onion1 the stronger will be its flavour4 ,leeks1 cucumber1 or burnet vinegar2 celery or celery-seed pounded4 ,the latter1 though equally strong1 does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable2 and when used as a substitute1 its flavour should be corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar4 ,cress-seed1 parsley1 common thyme1 lemon thyme1 orange thyme1 knotted marjoram1 sage1 mint1 winter savoury1 and basil4 ,as fresh green basil is seldom to be procured1 and its fine flavour is soon lost1 the best way of preserving the extract is by pouring wine on the fresh leaves4 #ij4 ,,for ,,the ,,seasoning ,,of ,,soups1 bay-leaves1 tomato1 tarragon1 chervil1 burnet1 allspice1 cinnamon1 ginger1 nutmeg1 clove1 mace1 black and white pepper1 essence of anchovy1 lemon-peel1 and juice1 and ,seville orange-juice1 are all taken4 ,the latter imparts a finer flavour than the lemon1 and the acid is much milder4 ,these materials1 with wine1 mushroom ketchup1 ,harvey's sauce1 tomato sauce1 combined in various proportions1 are1 with other ingredients1 manipulated into an almost endless variety of excellent soups and gravies4 ,soups1 which are intended to constitute the principal part of a meal1 certainly ought not to be flavoured like sauces1 which are only designed to give a relish to some particular dish4 ,,soup1 ,,broth ,,and ,,bouillon4 #ia4 ,,it ,,has ,,been ,,asserted1 that ,english cookery is1 nationally speaking1 far from being the best in the world4 ,more than this1 we have been frequently told by brilliant foreign writers1 half philosophers1 half chefs1 that we are the worst cooks on the face of the earth1 and that the proverb which alludes to the divine origin of food1 and the precisely opposite origin of its preparers1 is peculiarly applicable to us islanders4 ,not1 however1 to the inhabitants of the whole island2 for1 it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations1 north of the ,tweed1 that the broth of ,scotland claims1 for excellence and wholesomeness1 a very close second place to the bouillon1 or common soup of ,france4 ,three hot meals of broth and meat1 for about the price of ,,one roasting joint1 our ,scottish brothers and sisters get1 they say2 and we hasten to assent to what we think is now a very well-ascertained fact4 ,we are glad to note1 however1 that soups of vegetables1 fish1 meat1 and game1 are now very frequently found in the homes of the ,english middle classes1 as well as in the mansions of the wealthier and more aristocratic2 and we take this to be one evidence1 that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system of cookery4 ,one great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cooked meats which are brought to our tables1 arises1 we think1 and most will agree with us1 from a non-acquaintance with common1 every-day things4 ,entertaining this view1 we intend to preface the chapters of this work with a simple scientific rsum of all those causes and circumstances which relate to the food we have to prepare1 and the theory and chemistry of the various culinary operations4 ,accordingly1 this is the proper place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals1 and describe some of the circumstances which influence it for good or bad4 ,we will1 therefore1 commence with the circumstance of age1 and examine how far this affects the quality of meat4 #ib4 ,,during ,,the ,,period ,,between ,,the ,,birth ,,and ,,maturity ,,of ,,animals1 their flesh undergoes very considerable changes4 ,for instance1 when the animal is young1 the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain1 possess a large proportion of what is called albumen4 ,this albumen1 which is also the chief component of the white of eggs1 possesses the peculiarity of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature1 like the white of a boiled egg1 into a soft1 white fluid1 no longer soluble1 or capable of being dissolved in water4 ,as animals grow older1 this peculiar animal matter gradually decreases1 in proportion to the other constituents of the juice of the flesh4 ,thus1 the reason why veal1 lamb1 and young pork are white1 and without gravy when cooked1 is1 that the large quantity of albumen they contain hardens1 or becomes coagulated4 ,on the other hand1 the reason why beef and mutton are brown1 and have gravy1 is1 that the proportion of albumen they contain1 is small1 in comparison with their greater quantity of fluid which is soluble1 and not coagulable4 #ic4 ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,the ,,flesh ,,of ,,an ,,animal is considerably influenced by the nature of the food on which it has been fed2 for the food supplies the material which produces the flesh4 ,if the food be not suitable and good1 the meat cannot be good either2 just as the paper on which these words are printed1 could not be good1 if the rags from which it is made1 were not of a fine quality4 ,to the experienced in this matter1 it is well known that the flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce1 such as corn1 pulse1 c41 is firm1 well-flavoured1 and also economical in the cooking2 that the flesh of those fed on succulent and pulpy substances1 such as roots1 possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree2 whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil1 as linseed1 is greasy1 high coloured1 and gross in the fat1 and if the food has been used in large quantities1 possessed of a rank flavour4 #id4 ,,it ,,is ,,indispensable ,,to ,,the ,,good ,,quality ,,of ,,meat1 that the animal should be perfectly healthy at the time of its slaughter4 ,however slight the disease in an animal may be1 inferiority in the quality of its flesh1 as food1 is certain to be produced4 ,in most cases1 indeed1 as the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction1 it becomes not only unwholesome1 but absolutely poisonous1 on account of the absorption of the virus of the unsound meat into the systems of those who partake of it4 ,the external indications of good and bad meat will be described under its own particular head1 but we may here premise that the layer of all wholesome meat1 when freshly killed1 adheres firmly to the bone4 #ie4 ,,another ,,circumstance ,,greatly ,,affecting ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,meat1 is the animal's treatment before it is slaughtered4 ,this influences its value and wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree4 ,it will be easy to understand this1 when we reflect on those leading principles by which the life of an animal is supported and maintained4 ,these are1 the digestion of its food1 and the assimilation of that food into its substance4 ,nature1 in effecting this process1 first reduces the food in the stomach to a state of pulp1 under the name of chyme1 which passes into the intestines1 and is there divided into two principles1 each distinct from the other4 ,one1 a milk-white fluid1--the nutritive portion1--is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous membrane1 or inner coat of the intestines4 ,these vessels1 or absorbents1 discharge the fluid into a common duct1 or road1 along which it is conveyed to the large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart4 ,here it is mixed with the venous blood 7which is black and impure7 returning from every part of the body1 and then it supplies the waste which is occasioned in the circulating stream by the arterial 7or pure7 blood having furnished matter for the substance of the animal4 ,the blood of the animal having completed its course through all parts1 and having had its waste recruited by the digested food1 is now received into the heart1 and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs1 there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales4 ,again returning to the heart1 it is forced through the arteries1 and thence distributed1 by innumerable ramifications1 called capillaries1 bestowing to every part of the animal1 life and nutriment4 ,the other principle--the innutritive portion--passes from the intestines1 and is thus got rid of4 ,it will now be readily understood how flesh is affected for bad1 if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood has been increased by over-driving1 ill-usage1 or other causes of excitement1 to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for the capillaries to perform their functions1 and causing the blood to be congealed in its minuter vessels4 ,where this has been the case1 the meat will be dark-coloured1 and become rapidly putrid2 so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man4 ,,the ,,chemistry ,,and ,,economy ,,of ,,soup-,,making4 #if4 ,,stock ,,being ,,the ,,basis of all meat soups1 and1 also1 of all the principal sauces1 it is essential to the success of these culinary operations1 to know the most complete and economical method of extracting1 from a certain quantity of meat1 the best possible stock or broth4 ,the theory and philosophy of this process we will1 therefore1 explain1 and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted4 #ig4 ,,as ,,all ,,meat is principally composed of fibres1 fat1 gelatine1 osmazome1 and albumen1 it is requisite to know that the ,,fibres are inseparable1 constituting almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone a long boiling4 #ih4 ,,fat is dissolved by boiling2 but as it is contained in cells covered by a very fine membrane1 which never dissolves1 a portion of it always adheres to the fibres4 ,the other portion rises to the surface of the stock1 and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not whole1 or which have burst by boiling4 #ii4 ,,gelatine is soluble3 it is the basis and the nutritious portion of the stock4 ,when there is an abundance of it1 it causes the stock1 when cold1 to become a jelly4 #ajj4 ,,osmazome is soluble even when cold1 and is that part of the meat which gives flavour and perfume to the stock4 ,the flesh of old animals contains more osmazome than that of young ones4 ,brown meats contain more than white1 and the former make the stock more fragrant4 ,by roasting meat1 the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties2 so1 by putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot1 you obtain a better flavour4 #aja4 ,,albumen is of the nature of the white of eggs2 it can be dissolved in cold or tepid water1 but coagulates when it is put into water not quite at the boiling-point4 ,from this property in albumen1 it is evident that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils1 or after this is made to boil up quickly1 the albumen1 in both cases1 hardens4 ,in the first it rises to the surface1 in the second it remains in the meat1 but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from dissolving2 and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained4 ,it ought to be known1 too1 that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat1 always takes place1 more or less1 according to the size of the piece1 as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that degree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it4 #ajb4 ,,bones ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot4 ,they are composed of an earthy substance1--to which they owe their solidity1--of gelatine1 and a fatty fluid1 something like marrow4 ,two ounces of them contain as much gelatine as one pound of meat2 but in them1 this is so incased in the earthy substance1 that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of whole bones4 ,by breaking them1 however1 you can dissolve more1 because you multiply their surfaces2 and by reducing them to powder or paste1 you can dissolve them entirely2 but you must not grind them dry4 ,we have said 7#ii7 that gelatine forms the basis of stock2 but this1 though very nourishing1 is entirely without taste2 and to make the stock savoury1 it must contain osmazome4 ,of this1 bones do not contain a particle2 and that is the reason why stock made entirely of them1 is not liked2 but when you add meat to the broken or pulverized bones1 the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficiently savoury4 #ajc4 ,in concluding this part of our subject1 the following condensed hints and directions should be attended to in the economy of soup-making3-- ,i4 ,,beef ,,makes ,,the ,,best ,,stock2 veal stock has less colour and taste2 whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell1 far from agreeable1 unless the meat has been previously roasted or broiled4 ,fowls add very little to the flavour of stock1 unless they be old and fat4 ,pigeons1 when they are old1 add the most flavour to it2 and a rabbit or partridge is also a great improvement4 ,from the freshest meat the best stock is obtained4 ,,ii4 ,,if ,,the ,,meat ,,be ,,boiled solely to make stock1 it must be cut up into the smallest possible pieces2 but1 generally speaking1 if it is desired to have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well1 it is necessary to put a rather large piece into the stock-pot1 say sufficient for two or three days1 during which time the stock will keep well in all weathers4 ,choose the freshest meat1 and have it cut as thick as possible2 for if it is a thin1 flat piece1 it will not look well1 and will be very soon spoiled by the boiling4 ,,iii4 ,,never ,,wash ,,meat1 as it deprives its surface of all its juices2 separate it from the bones1 and tie it round with tape1 so that its shape may be preserved1 then put it into the stock-pot1 and for each pound of meat1 let there be one pint of water2 press it down with the hand1 to allow the air1 which it contains1 to escape1 and which often raises it to the top of the water4 ,,iv4 ,,put ,,the ,,stock-,,pot ,,on ,a ,,gentle ,,fire1 so that it may heat gradually4 ,the albumen will first dissolve1 afterwards coagulate2 and as it is in this state lighter than the liquid1 it will rise to the surface2 bringing with it all its impurities4 ,it is this which makes the scum4 ,the rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifying stock as the white of eggs2 and1 as a rule1 it may be said that the more scum there is1 the clearer will be the stock4 ,always take care that the fire is very regular4 ,v4 ,,remove ,,the ,,scum when it rises thickly1 and do not let the stock boil1 because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved1 and the other go to the bottom of the pot2 thus rendering it very difficult to obtain a clear broth4 ,if the fire is regular1 it will not be necessary to add cold water in order to make the scum rise2 but if the fire is too large at first1 it will then be necessary to do so4 ,,vi4 ,,when ,,the ,,stock ,,is ,,well ,,skimmed1 and begins to boil1 put in salt and vegetables1 which may be two or three carrots1 two turnips1 one parsnip1 a bunch of leeks and celery tied together4 ,you can add1 according to taste1 a piece of cabbage1 two or three cloves stuck in an onion1 and a tomato4 ,the latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock4 ,if fried onion be added1 it ought1 according to the advice of a famous ,french chef1 to be tied in a little bag3 without this precaution1 the colour of the stock is liable to be clouded4 ,,vii4 ,,by ,,this ,,time we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones which were separated from the meat1 and those which were left from the roast meat of the day before4 ,remember1 as was before pointed out1 that the more these are broken1 the more gelatine you will have4 ,the best way to break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar1 adding1 from time to time1 a little water1 to prevent them getting heated4 ,it is a great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat1 which1 in too many ,english families1 we fear1 are entirely wasted2 for it is certain1 as previously stated 7,no4 #ajb71 that two ounces of bone contain as much gelatine 7which is the nutritive portion of stock7 as one pound of meat4 ,in their broken state tie them up in a bag1 and put them in the stock-pot2 adding the gristly parts of cold meat1 and trimmings1 which can be used for no other purpose4 ,if1 to make up the weight1 you have received from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal1 broil it slightly over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot1 and be very careful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt4 ,,viii4 ,,add ,,now ,,the ,,vegetables1 which1 to a certain extent1 will stop the boiling of the stock4 ,wait1 therefore1 till it simmers well up again1 then draw it to the side of the fire1 and keep it gently simmering till it is served1 preserving1 as before said1 your fire always the same4 ,cover the stock-pot well1 to prevent evaporation2 do not fill it up1 even if you take out a little stock1 unless the meat is exposed2 in which case a little boiling water may be added1 but only enough to cover it4 ,after six hours' slow and gentle simmering1 the stock is done2 and it should not be continued on the fire1 longer than is necessary1 or it will tend to insipidity4 ,note4--,it is on a good stock1 or first good broth and sauce1 that excellence in cookery depends4 ,if the preparation of this basis of the culinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons1 and the stock is not well skimmed1 but indifferent results will be obtained4 ,the stock will never be clear2 and when it is obliged to be clarified1 it is deteriorated both in quality and flavour4 ,in the proper management of the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved1 inasmuch as one stock1 in a small dinner1 serves for all purposes4 ,above all things1 the greatest economy1 consistent with excellence1 should be practised1 and the price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly ascertained4 ,the theory of this part of ,household ,management may appear trifling2 but its practice is extensive1 and therefore it requires the best attention4 ,illustration ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fruit ,,and ,,vegetable ,,soups4 ,it will be seen1 by reference to the following ,recipes1 that an entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in explaining the preparation of each dish4 ,we would recommend the young housekeeper1 cook1 or whoever may be engaged in the important task of getting ready the dinner1 or other meal1 to follow precisely the order in which the recipes are given4 ,thus1 let them first place on their table all the ,,ingredients necessary2 then the modus operandi1 or ,,mode of preparation1 will be easily managed4 ,by a careful reading1 too1 of the recipes1 there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a repast for any number of persons1 and an accurate notion will be gained of the ,,time the cooling of each dish will occupy1 of the periods at which it is ,,seasonable1 as also of its ,,average ,,cost4 ,the addition of the natural history1 and the description of the various properties of the edible articles in common use in every family1 will be serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view4 ,speaking specially of the ,recipes for ,soups1 it may be added1 that by the employment of the ,,best1 ,,medium1 or ,,common ,,stock1 the quality of the ,soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened4 ,,stocks ,,for ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,soups4 ,,rich ,,strong ,,stock4 #ajd4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of shin of beef1 #d lbs4 of knuckle of veal1 #c_/d lb4 of good lean ham2 any poultry trimmings2 #c small onions1 #c small carrots1 #c turnips 7the latter should be omitted in summer1 lest they ferment71 #a head of celery1 a few chopped mushrooms1 when obtainable2 #a tomato1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 not forgetting parsley2 #a-a_/b oz4 of salt1 #ab white peppercorns1 #f cloves1 #c small blades of mace1 #d quarts of water4 ,mode4--,line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broad slices1 carefully trimming off all its rusty fat2 cut up the beef and veal in pieces about #c inches square1 and lay them on the ham2 set it on the stove1 and draw it down1 and stir frequently4 ,when the meat is equally browned1 put in the beef and veal bones1 the poultry trimmings1 and pour in the cold water4 ,skim well1 and occasionally add a little cold water1 to stop its boiling1 until it becomes quite clear2 then put in all the other ingredients1 and simmer very slowly for #e hours4 ,do not let it come to a brisk boil1 that the stock be not wasted1 and that its colour may be preserved4 ,strain through a very fine hair sieve1 or tammy1 and it will be fit for use4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,,medium ,,stock4 #aje4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of shin of beef1 or #d lbs4 of knuckle of veal1 or #b lbs4 of each2 any bones1 trimmings of poultry1 or fresh meat1 #a_/b a lb4 of lean bacon or ham1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b large onions1 each stuck with #c cloves2 #a turnip1 #c carrots1 #a_/b a leek1 #a head of celery1 #b oz4 of salt1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of whole pepper1 #a large blade of mace1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs1 #d quarts and #a_/b pint of cold water4 ,mode4--,cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about #c inches square2 rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan2 put in #a_/b a pint of water1 the meat1 and all the other ingredients4 ,cover the stewpan1 and place it on a sharp fire1 occasionally stirring its contents4 ,when the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale1 jelly-like substance1 add #d quarts of cold water1 and simmer very gently for #e hours4 ,as we have said before1 do not let it boil quickly4 ,skim off every particle of grease whilst it is doing1 and strain it through a fine hair sieve4 ,this is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned1 and will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes4 ,time4--#e-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per quart4 ,,economical ,,stock4 #ajf4 ,,ingredients4--,the liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled1 say #d quarts2 trimmings of fresh meat or poultry1 shank-bones1 c41 roast-beef bones1 any pieces the larder may furnish2 vegetables1 spices1 and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe4 ,mode4--,let all the ingredients simmer gently for #f hours1 taking care to skim carefully at first4 ,strain it off1 and put by for use4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 per quart4 ,,white ,,stock4 7,to be ,used in the ,preparation of ,white ,soups47 #ajg4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of knuckle of veal1 any poultry trimmings1 #d slices of lean ham1 #a carrot1 #b onions1 #a head of celery1 #ab white peppercorns1 #a oz4 of salt1 #a blade of mace1 #a oz4 butter1 #d quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the veal1 and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry1 and the ham1 into the stewpan1 which has been rubbed with the butter4 ,moisten with #a_/b a pint of water1 and simmer till the gravy begins to flow4 ,then add the #d quarts of water and the remainder of the ingredients2 simmer for #e hours4 ,after skimming and straining it carefully through a very fine hair sieve1 it will be ready for use4 ,time4--#e-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per quart4 ,note4--,when stronger stock is desired1 double the quantity of veal1 or put in an old fowl4 ,the liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled1 is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups4 ,,browning ,,for ,,stock4 #ajh4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of powdered sugar1 and #a_/b a pint of water4 ,mode4--,place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins to melt1 keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black1 then add the water1 and let it dissolve4 ,cork closely1 and use a few drops when required4 ,note4--,in ,france1 burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of browning4 ,as a general rule1 the process of browning is to be discouraged1 as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the stock1 and1 consequently1 all soups made from it4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,stock4 #aji4 ,,ingredients4--,the whites of #b eggs1 #a_/b pint of water1 #b quarts of stock4 ,mode4--,supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear1 and that its quantity is #b quarts1 take the whites of #b eggs1 carefully separated from their yolks1 whisk them well together with the water1 and add gradually the #b quarts of boiling stock1 still whisking4 ,place the soup on the fire1 and when boiling and well skimmed1 whisk the eggs with it till nearly boiling again2 then draw it from the fire1 and let it settle1 until the whites of the eggs become separated4 ,pass through a fine cloth1 and the soup should be clear4 ,note4--,the rule is1 that all clear soups should be of a light straw colour1 and should not savour too strongly of the meat2 and that all white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot4 ,all pures should be somewhat thicker4 ,,almond ,,soup4 #aaj4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of lean beef or veal1 #a_/b a scrag of mutton1 #a oz4 of vermicelli1 #d blades of mace1 #f cloves1 #a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 the yolks of #f eggs1 #a gill of thick cream1 rather more than #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,boil the beef1 or veal1 and the mutton1 gently in water that will cover them1 till the gravy is very strong1 and the meat very tender2 then strain off the gravy1 and set it on the fire with the specified quantities of vermicelli1 mace1 and cloves1 to #b quarts4 ,let it boil till it has the flavour of the spices4 ,have ready the almonds1 blanched and pounded very fine2 the yolks of the eggs boiled hard2 mixing the almonds1 whilst pounding1 with a little of the soup1 lest the latter should grow oily4 ,pound them till they are a mere pulp1 and keep adding to them1 by degrees1 a little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together4 ,let the soup be cool when mixing1 and do it perfectly smooth4 ,strain it through a sieve1 set it on the fire1 stir frequently1 and serve hot4 ,just before taking it up1 add the cream4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost per quart1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,almond ,,blossom4 ,,the ,,almond-,,tree4--,this tree is indigenous to the northern parts of ,asia and ,africa1 but it is now cultivated in ,europe1 especially in the south of ,france1 ,italy1 and ,spain4 ,it flowers in spring1 and produces its fruit in ,august4 ,although there are two kinds of almonds1 the sweet and the bitter1 they are considered as only varieties of the same species4 ,the best sweet almonds brought to ,england1 are called the ,syrian or ,jordan1 and come from ,malaga2 the inferior qualities are brought from ,valentia and ,italy4 ,bitter almonds come principally from ,magadore4 ,anciently1 the almond was much esteemed by the nations of the ,east4 ,jacob included it among the presents which he designed for ,joseph4 ,the ,greeks called it the ,greek or ,thasian nut1 and the ,romans believed that by eating half a dozen of them1 they were secured against drunkenness1 however deeply they might imbibe4 ,almonds1 however1 are considered as very indigestible4 ,the bitter contain1 too1 principles which produce two violent poisons1--prussic acid and a kind of volatile oil4 ,it is consequently dangerous to eat them in large quantities4 ,almonds pounded together with a little sugar and water1 however1 produce a milk similar to that which is yielded by animals4 ,their oil is used for making fine soap1 and their cake as a cosmetic4 ,,apple ,,soup4 #aaa4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of good boiling apples1 #c_/d teaspoonful of white pepper1 #f cloves1 cayenne or ginger to taste1 #c quarts of medium stock4 ,mode4--,peel and quarter the apples1 taking out their cores2 put them into the stock1 stew them gently till tender4 ,rub the whole through a strainer1 add the seasoning1 give it one boil up1 and serve4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,december4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,illustration3 ,,apple ,,and ,,blossom4 ,,the ,,apple4--,this useful fruit is mentioned in ,holy ,writ2 and ,homer describes it as valuable in his time4 ,it was brought from the ,east by the ,romans1 who held it in the highest estimation4 ,indeed1 some of the citizens of the ,eternal city distinguished certain favourite apples by their names4 ,thus the ,manlians were called after ,manlius1 the ,claudians after ,claudius1 and the ,appians after ,appius4 ,others were designated after the country whence they were brought2 as the ,sidonians1 the ,epirotes1 and the ,greeks4 ,the best varieties are natives of ,asia1 and have1 by grafting them upon others1 been introduced into ,europe4 ,the crab1 found in our hedges1 is the only variety indigenous to ,britain2 therefore1 for the introduction of other kinds we are1 no doubt1 indebted to the ,romans4 ,in the time of the ,saxon heptarchy1 both ,devon and ,somerset were distinguished as the apple country2 and there are still existing in ,herefordshire some trees said to have been planted in the time of ,william the ,conqueror4 ,from that time to this1 the varieties of this precious fruit have gone on increasing1 and are now said to number upwards of #a1ejj4 ,it is peculiar to the temperate zone1 being found neither in ,lapland1 nor within the tropics4 ,the best baking apples for early use are the ,colvilles2 the best for autumn are the rennets and pearmains2 and the best for winter and spring are russets4 ,the best table1 or eating apples1 are the ,margarets for early use2 the ,kentish codlin and summer pearmain for summer2 and for autumn1 winter1 or spring1 the ,dowton1 golden and other pippins1 as the ribstone1 with small russets4 ,as a food1 the apple cannot be considered to rank high1 as more than the half of it consists of water1 and the rest of its properties are not the most nourishing4 ,it is1 however1 a useful adjunct to other kinds of food1 and1 when cooked1 is esteemed as slightly laxative4 ,,artichoke 7,,jerusalem7 ,,soup4 7,a ,white ,soup47 #aab4 ,,ingredients4--#c slices of lean bacon or ham1 #a_/b a head of celery1 #a turnip1 #a onion1 #c oz4 of butter1 #d lbs4 of artichokes1 #a pint of boiling milk1 or #a_/b pint of boiling cream1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #b lumps of sugar1 #b-a_/b quarts of white stock4 ,mode4--,put the bacon and vegetables1 which should be cut into thin slices1 into the stewpan with the butter4 ,braise these for #a_/d of an hour1 keeping them well stirred4 ,wash and pare the artichokes1 and after cutting them into thin slices1 add them1 with a pint of stock1 to the other ingredients4 ,when these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp1 put in the remainder of the stock4 ,stir it well1 adding the seasoning1 and when it has simmered for five minutes1 pass it through a strainer4 ,now pour it back into the stewpan1 let it again simmer five minutes1 taking care to skim it well1 and stir it to the boiling milk or cream4 ,serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 #b;d4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,october4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,asparagus ,,soup4 ,i4 #aac4 ,,ingredients4--#e lbs4 of lean beef1 #c slices of bacon1 #a_/b pint of pale ale1 a few leaves of white beet1 spinach1 #a cabbage lettuce1 a little mint1 sorrel1 and marjoram1 a pint of asparagus-tops cut small1 the crust of #a ,french roll1 seasoning to taste1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,put the beef1 cut in pieces and rolled in flour1 into a stewpan1 with the bacon at the bottom2 cover it close1 and set it on a slow fire1 stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn4 ,put in the water and ale1 and season to taste with pepper and salt1 and let it stew gently for #b hours2 then strain the liquor1 and take off the fat1 and add the white beet1 spinach1 cabbage lettuce1 and mint1 sorrel1 and sweet marjoram1 pounded4 ,let these boil up in the liquor1 then put in the asparagus-tops cut small1 and allow them to boil till all is tender4 ,serve hot1 with the ,french roll in the dish4 ,time4--,altogether #c hours4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,august4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,ii4 #aad4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of split peas1 a teacupful of gravy1 #d young onions1 #a lettuce cut small1 #a_/b a head of celery1 #a_/b a pint of asparagus cut small1 #a_/b a pint of cream1 #c quarts of water3 colour the soup with spinach juice4 ,mode4--,boil the peas1 and rub them through a sieve2 add the gravy1 and then stew by themselves the celery1 onions1 lettuce1 and asparagus1 with the water4 ,after this1 stew altogether1 and add the colouring and cream1 and serve4 ,time4--,peas #b-a_/b hours1 vegetables #a hour2 altogether #d hours4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 ,illustration3 ,,asparagus4 ,,asparagus4--,the ancients called all the sprouts of young vegetables asparagus1 whence the name1 which is now limited to a particular species1 embracing artichoke1 alisander1 asparagus1 cardoon1 rampion1 and sea-kale4 ,they are originally mostly wild seacoast plants2 and1 in this state1 asparagus may still be found on the northern as well as southern shores of ,britain4 ,it is often vulgarly called1 in ,london1 sparrowgrass2 and1 in it's cultivated form1 hardly bears any resemblance to the original plant4 ,immense quantities of it are raised for the ,london market1 at ,mortlake and ,deptford2 but it belongs rather to the classes of luxurious than necessary food4 ,it is light and easily digested1 but is not very nutritious4 ,,baked ,,soup4 #aae4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of any kind of meat1 any trimmings or odd pieces2 #b onions1 #b carrots1 #b oz4 of rice1 #a pint of split peas1 pepper and salt to taste1 #d quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut the meat and vegetables in slices1 add to them the rice and peas1 season with pepper and salt4 ,put the whole in a jar1 fill up with the water1 cover very closely1 and bake for #d hours4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #b-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #aj or #ab persons4 ,note4--,this will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup1 and will be convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than boiling4 ,,barley ,,soup4 #aaf4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of shin of beef1 #a_/d lb4 of pearl barley1 a large bunch of parsley1 #d onions1 #f potatoes1 salt and pepper1 #d quarts of water4 ,mode4--,put in all the ingredients1 and simmer gently for #c hours4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #b-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable for winter4 ,illustration3 ,,barley4 ,,barley4--,this1 in the order of cereal grasses1 is1 in ,britain1 the next plant to wheat in point of value1 and exhibits several species and varieties4 ,from what country it comes originally1 is not known1 but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of antiquity1 as the ,egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it in the ear1 in the time of ,moses4 ,it was a favourite grain with the ,athenians1 but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the ,romans4 ,notwithstanding this1 however1 it was much used by them1 as it was in former times by the ,english1 and still is1 in the ,border counties1 in ,cornwall1 and also in ,wales4 ,in other parts of ,england1 it is used mostly for malting purposes4 ,it is less nutritive than wheat2 and in #ajj parts1 has of starch #gi1 gluten #f1 saccharine matter #g1 husk #h4 ,it is1 however1 a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat1 which renders a decoction of it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak4 ,,bread ,,soup4 7,economical47 #aag4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of bread crusts1 #b oz4 butter1 #a quart of common stock4 ,mode4--,boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter2 beat the whole with a spoon1 and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are well mixed4 ,season with a little salt4 ,time4--,half an hour4 ,average cost per quart1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,note4--,this is a cheap recipe1 and will be found useful where extreme economy is an object4 ,illustration3 ,,quern1 or ,,grinding-,,mill4 ,,bread4--,the origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of distant ages4 ,the ,greeks attributed its invention to ,pan2 but before they1 themselves1 had an existence1 it was1 no doubt1 in use among the primitive nations of mankind4 ,the ,chaldeans and the ,egyptians were acquainted with it1 and ,sarah1 the companion of ,abraham1 mixed flour and water together1 kneaded it1 and covered it with ashes on the hearth4 ,the ,scriptures inform us that leavened bread was known to the ,israelites1 but it is not known when the art of fermenting it was discovered4 ,it is said that the ,romans learnt it during their wars with ,perseus1 king of ,macedon1 and that it was introduced to the imperial city about #bjj years before the birth of ,christ4 ,with them it no doubt found its way into ,britain2 but after their departure from the island1 it probably ceased to be used4 ,we know that ,king ,alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's cottage2 and that1 even in the sixteenth century1 unfermented cakes1 kneaded by the women1 were the only kind of bread known to the inhabitants of ,norway and ,sweden4 ,the ,italians of this day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of polenta1 or soft pudding1 vermicelli1 and macaroni2 and1 in the remoter districts of ,scotland1 much unfermented bread is still used4 ,we give a cut of the quern grinding-mill1 which1 towards the end of the last century1 was in use in that country1 and which is thus described by ,dr4 ,johnson in his ,journey to the ,hebrides3--,it consists of two stones about a foot and half in diameter2 the lower is a little convex1 to which the concavity of the upper must be fitted4 ,in the middle of the upper stone is a round hole1 and on one side is a long handle4 ,the grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one hand1 and works the handle round with the other4 ,the corn slides down the convexity of the lower stone1 and by the motion of the upper1 is ground in its passage4 ,such a primitive piece of machinery1 it may safely be said1 has entirely disappeared from this country4--,in other parts of this work1 we shall have opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making1 which1 from its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind1 has emphatically been called the staff of life4 ,the necessity1 therefore1 of having it both pure and good is of the first importance4 ,,cabbage ,,soup4 #aah4 ,,ingredients4--#a large cabbage1 #c carrots1 #b onions1 #d or #e slices of lean bacon1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b quarts of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,scald the cabbage1 exit it up and drain it4 ,line the stewpan with the bacon1 put in the cabbage1 carrots1 and onions2 moisten with skimmings from the stock1 and simmer very gently1 till the cabbage is tender2 add the stock1 stew softly for half an hour1 and carefully skim off every particle of fat4 ,season and serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,cabbage ,,seeding4 ,,the ,,cabbage4--,it is remarkable1 that although there is no country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables than ,great ,britain1 yet the greater number of these had no existence in it before the time of ,henry ,,viii4 ,anderson1 writing under the date of #aedh1 says1 ,the ,english cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two centuries4 ,at the commencement of the reign1 of ,henry ,,viii4 neither salad1 nor carrots1 nor cabbages1 nor radishes1 nor any other comestibles of a like nature1 were grown in any part of the kingdom2 they came from ,holland and ,flanders4 ,the original of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant sea-colewort1 which is to be found wasting whatever sweetness it may have on the desert air1 on many of the cliffs of the south coast of ,england4 ,in this state1 it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce1 yet1 in a cultivated state1 to what dimensions can it be made to grow6 ,however greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among the moderns1 by the ancients they were held in yet higher estimation4 ,the ,egyptians adored and raised altars to them1 and the ,greeks and ,romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues to them4 ,cato affirmed1 that the cabbage cured all diseases1 and declared1 that it was to its use that the ,romans were enabled to live in health and without the assistance of physicians for #fjj years4 ,it was introduced by that people into ,germany1 ,gaul1 and1 no doubt1 ,britain2 although1 in this last1 it may have been suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries4 ,the whole tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive1 and forms a valuable adjunct to animal food4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,cantatrice4 7,an ,excellent ,soup1 very ,beneficial for the ,voice47 #aai4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of sago1 #a_/b pint of cream1 the yolks of #c eggs1 #a lump of sugar1 and seasoning to taste1 #a bay-leaf 7if liked71 #b quarts of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,having washed the sago in boiling water1 let it be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock4 ,simmer for #a_/b an hour1 when it should be well dissolved4 ,beat up the yolks of the eggs1 add to them the boiling cream2 stir these quickly in the soup1 and serve immediately4 ,do not let the soup boil1 or the eggs will curdle4 ,time4--#dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this is a soup1 the principal ingredients of which1 sago and eggs1 have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat4 ,in various quantities1 and in different preparations1 these have been partaken of by the principal singers of the day1 including the celebrated ,swedish ,nightingale1 ,jenny ,lind1 and1 as they have always avowed1 with considerable advantage to the voice1 in singing4 ,,carrot ,,soup4 ,i4 #abj4 ,,ingredients4--#d quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled1 a few beef-bones1 #f large carrots1 #b large onions1 #a turnip2 seasoning of salt and pepper to taste2 cayenne4 ,mode4--,put the liquor1 bones1 onions1 turnip1 pepper1 and salt1 into a stewpan1 and simmer for #c hours4 ,scrape and cut the carrots thin1 strain the soup on them1 and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth2 then boil the pulp with the soup1 which should be of the consistency of pea-soup4 ,add cayenne4 ,pulp only the red part of the carrot1 and make this soup the day before it is wanted4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost per quart1 #a-a_/b;d4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,ii4 #aba4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of carrots1 #c oz4 of butter1 seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne1 #b quarts of stock or gravy soup4 ,mode4--,scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots1 wash1 and wipe them dry1 and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices4 ,put the butter into a large stewpan1 and when it is melted1 add #b lbs4 of the sliced carrots1 and let them stew gently for an hour without browning4 ,add to them the soup1 and allow them to simmer till tender1--say for nearly an hour4 ,press them through a strainer with the soup1 and add salt and cayenne if required4 ,boil the whole gently for #e minutes1 skim well1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 #a;d4 ,illustration3 ,,tazza ,,and ,,carrot ,,leaves4 ,,the ,,carrot4--,there is a wild carrot which grows in ,england2 but it is white and small1 and not much esteemed4 ,the garden carrot in general use1 was introduced in the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth1 and was1 at first1 so highly esteemed1 that the ladies wore leaves of it in their head-dresses4 ,it is of great value in the culinary art1 especially for soups and stews4 ,it can be used also for beer instead of malt1 and1 in distillation1 it yields a large quantity of spirit4 ,the carrot is proportionably valuable as it has more of the red than the yellow part4 ,there is a large red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter4 ,as a garden vegetable1 it is what is called the orange-carrot that is usually cultivated4 ,as a fattening food for cattle1 it is excellent2 but for man it is indigestible1 on account of its fibrous matter4 ,of #a1jjj parts1 #ie consist of sugar1 and #c of starch4--,the accompanying cut represents a pretty winter ornament1 obtained by placing a cut from the top of the carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water1 when the young leaves spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness4 ,,celery ,,soup4 #abb4 ,,ingredients4--#i heads of celery1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 nutmeg to taste1 #a lump of sugar1 #a_/b pint of strong stock1 a pint of cream1 and #b quarts of boiling water4 ,mode4--,cut the celery into small pieces2 throw it into the water1 seasoned with the nutmeg1 salt1 and sugar4 ,boil it till sufficiently tender2 pass it through a sieve1 add the stock1 and simmer it for half an hour4 ,now put in the cream1 bring it to the boiling point1 and serve immediately4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,this soup can be made brown1 instead of white1 by omitting the cream1 and colouring it a little4 ,when celery cannot be procured1 half a drachm of the seed1 finely pounded1 will give a flavour to the soup1 if put in a quarter of an hour before it is done4 ,a little of the essence of celery will answer the same purpose4 ,,celery4--,this plant is indigenous to ,britain1 and1 in its wild state1 grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the seacoast4 ,in this state it is called smallaqe1 and1 to some extent1 is a dangerous narcotic4 ,by cultivation1 however1 it has been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant possesses4 ,in the vicinity of ,manchester it is raised to an enormous size4 ,when our natural observation is assisted by the accurate results ascertained by the light of science1 how infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the products of nature6 ,to know1 for example1 that the endless variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by the rays of the sun1 is to know a truism sublime by its very comprehensiveness4 ,the cause of the whiteness of celery is nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation1 and in order that this effect may be produced1 the plant is almost wholly covered with earth2 the tops of the leaves alone being suffered to appear above the ground4 ,,chantilly ,,soup4 #abc4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of young green peas1 a small bunch of parsley1 #b young onions1 #b quarts of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,boil the peas till quite tender1 with the parsley and onions2 then rub them through a sieve1 and pour the stock to them4 ,do not let it boil after the peas are added1 or you will spoil the colour4 ,serve very hot4 ,time4--,half an hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,june to the end of ,august4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,cold peas pounded in a mortar1 with a little stock added to them1 make a very good soup in haste4 ,parsley4--,among the ,greeks1 in the classic ages1 a crown of parsley was awarded1 both in the ,nemaean and ,isthmian games1 and the voluptuous ,anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the emblem of joy and festivity4 ,it has an elegant leaf1 and is extensively used in the culinary art4 ,when it was introduced to ,britain is not known4 ,there are several varieties1--the plain-leaved and the curled-leaved1 celery-parsley1 ,hamburg parsley1 and purslane4 ,the curled is the best1 and1 from the form of its leaf1 has a beautiful appearance on a dish as a garnish4 ,its flavour is1 to many1 very agreeable in soups2 and although to rabbits1 hares1 and sheep it is a luxury1 to parrots it is a poison4 ,the celery-parsley is used as a celery1 and the ,hamburg is cultivated only for its roots1 which are used as parsnips or carrots1 to eat with meat4 ,the purslane is a native of ,south ,america1 and is not now much in use4 ,,chestnut 7,,spanish7 ,,soup4 #abd4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of ,spanish chestnuts1 #a_/d pint of cream2 seasoning to taste of salt1 cayenne1 and mace2 #a quart of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,take the outer rind from the chestnuts1 and put them into a large pan of warm water4 ,as soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it1 take out the chestnuts1 peel them quickly1 and immerse them in cold water1 and wipe and weigh them4 ,now cover them with good stock1 and stew them gently for rather more than #c_/d of an hour1 or until they break when touched with a fork2 then drain1 pound1 and rub them through a fine sieve reversed2 add sufficient stock1 mace1 cayenne1 and salt1 and stir it often until it boils1 and put in the cream4 ,the stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup1 when its sweetness is not objected to1 or it may1 in part1 be added to it2 and the rule is1 that #c_/d lb4 of chestnuts should be given to each quart of soup4 ,time4--rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,february4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,illustration3 ,,chestnut4 ,,the ,,chestnut4--,this fruit is said1 by some1 to have originally come from ,sardis1 in ,lydia2 and by others1 from ,castanea1 a city of ,thessaly1 from which it takes its name4 ,by the ancients it was much used as a food1 and is still common in ,france and ,italy1 to which countries it is1 by some1 considered indigenous4 ,in the southern part of the ,european continent1 it is eaten both raw and roasted4 ,the tree was introduced into ,britain by the ,romans2 but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the island1 the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in ,scotland4 ,it attains a great age1 as well as an immense size4 ,as a food1 it is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts1 and1 therefore1 the easiest of digestion4 ,the tree called the horse chestnut is very different1 although its fruit very much resembles that of the other4 ,its nuts1 though eaten by horses and some other animals1 are unsuitable for human food4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,soup4 #abe4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of grated cocoa-nut1 #f oz4 of rice flour1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of mace2 seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt2 #a_/d of a pint of boiling cream1 #c quarts of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut1 and grate it down small on a clean grater2 weigh it1 and allow1 for each quart of stock1 #b oz4 of the cocoa-nut4 ,simmer it gently for #a hour in the stock1 which should then be strained closely from it1 and thickened for table4 ,time4--#b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost per quart1 #as4 #c;d4 ,seasonable in ,autumn4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,illustration3 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,palm4 ,illustration3 ,,nut ,,blossom4 ,,the ,,cocoa-,,nut4--,this is the fruit of one of the palms1 than which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree marking1 in itself1 so abundantly the goodness of ,providence1 in making provision for the wants of man4 ,it grows wild in the ,indian seas1 and in the eastern parts of ,asia2 and thence it has been introduced into every part of the tropical regions4 ,to the natives of those climates1 its bark supplies the material for creating their dwellings2 its leaves1 the means of roofing them2 and the leaf-stalks1 a kind of gauze for covering their windows1 or protecting the baby in the cradle4 ,it is also made into lanterns1 masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun1 baskets1 wicker-work1 and even a kind of paper for writing on4 ,combs1 brooms1 torches1 ropes1 matting1 and sailcloth are made of its fibers4 ,with these1 too1 beds are made and cushions stuffed4 ,oars are supplied by the leaves2 drinking-cups1 spoons1 and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts2 milk by its juice1 of which1 also1 a kind of honey and sugar are prepared4 ,when fermented1 it furnishes the means of intoxication2 and when the fibres are burned1 their ashes supply an alkali for making soap4 ,the buds of the tree bear a striking resemblance to cabbage when boiled2 but when they are cropped1 the tree dies4 ,in a fresh state1 the kernel is eaten raw1 and its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage4 ,when the nut is imported to this country1 its fruit is1 in general1 comparatively dry1 and is considered indigestible4 ,the tree is one of the least productive of the palm tribe4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,crecy4 #abf4 ,,ingredients4--#d carrots1 #b sliced onions1 #a cut lettuce1 and chervil2 #b oz4 butter1 #a pint of lentils1 the crumbs of #b ,french rolls1 half a teacupful of rice1 #b quarts of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan1 and let them simmer #e minutes2 then add the lentils and #a pint of the stock1 and stew gently for half an hour4 ,now fill it up with the remainder of the stock1 let it boil another hour1 and put in the crumb of the rolls4 ,when well soaked1 rub all through a tammy4 ,have ready the rice boiled2 pour the soup over this1 and serve4 ,time4--#a-c_/d hour4 ,average cost1#as4 #b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,lentil4 ,,the ,,lentil4--,this belongs to the legumious or pulse kind of vegetables1 which rank next to the corn plants in their nutritive properties4 ,the lentil is a variety of the bean tribe1 but in ,england is not used as human food1 although considered the best of all kinds for pigeons4 ,on the ,continent it is cultivated for soups1 as well as for other preparations for the table2 and among the presents which ,david received from ,shobi1 as recounted in the ,scriptures1 were beans1 lentils1 and parched pulse4 ,among the ,egyptians it was extensively used1 and among the ,greeks1 the ,stoics had a maxim1 which declared1 that a wise man acts always with reason1 and prepares his own lentils4 ,among the ,romans it was not much esteemed1 and from them the ,english may have inherited a prejudice against it1 on account1 it is said1 of its rendering men indolent4 ,it takes its name from lentus 'slow1' and1 according to ,pliny1 produces mildness and moderation of temper4 ,,cucumber ,,soup 7,french ,recipe74 #abg4 ,,ingredients4--#a large cucumber1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces1 salt and pepper to taste1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #a gill of cream1 #a quart of medium stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,pare the cucumber1 quarter it1 and take out the seeds2 cut it in thin slices1 put these on a plate with a little salt1 to draw the water from them2 drain1 and put them in your stewpan1 with the butter4 ,when they are warmed through1 without being browned1 pour the stock on them4 ,add the sorrel1 chervil1 and seasoning1 and boil for #dj minutes4 ,mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream1 which add at the moment of serving4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,september4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,the ,,cucumber4--,the antiquity of this fruit is very great4 ,in the sacred writings we find that the people of ,israel regretted it1 whilst sojourning in the desert2 and at the present time1 the cucumber1 and other fruits of its class1 form a large portion of the food of the ,egyptian people4 ,by the ,eastern nations generally1 as well as by the ,greeks and ,romans1 it was greatly esteemed4 ,like the melon1 it was originally brought from ,asia by the ,romans1 and in the #adth century it was common in ,england1 although1 in the time of the wars of the ,roses1 it seems no longer to have been cultivated4 ,it is a cold food1 and of difficult digestion when eaten raw4 ,as a preserved sweetmeat1 however1 it is esteemed one of the most agreeable4 ,,egg ,,soup4 #abh4 ,,ingredients4--,a tablespoonful of flour1 #d eggs1 #b small blades of finely-pounded mace1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock1 and put in the eggs2 throw them into boiling stock1 stirring all the time4 ,simmer for #a_/d of an hour4 ,season and serve with a ,french roll in the tureen1 or fried sippets of bread4 ,time4 #a_/b an hour4 ,average cost1#aa;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,flamande 7,flemish74 ,i4 #abi4 ,,ingredients4--#a turnip1 #a small carrot1 #a_/b head of celery1 #f green onions shred very fine1 #a lettuce cut small1 chervil1 #a_/d pint of asparagus cut small1 #a_/d pint of peas1 #b oz4 butter1 the yolks of #d eggs1 #a_/b pint of cream1 salt to taste1 #a lump of sugar1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour with a teacupful of stock2 then add the remainder of the stock1 and simmer for another hour4 ,now beat the yolks of the eggs well1 mix with the cream 7previously boiled71 and strain through a hair sieve4 ,take the soup off the fire1 put the eggs1 c4 to it1 and keep stirring it well4 ,bring it to a boil1 but do not leave off stirring1 or the eggs will curdle4 ,season with salt1 and add the sugar4 ,time4--#bd hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,august4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,chervil4--,although the roots of this plant are poisonous1 its leaves are tender1 and are used in salads4 ,in antiquity it made a relishing dish1 when prepared with oil1 wine1 and gravy4 ,it is a native of various parts of ,europe2 and the species cultivated in the gardens of ,paris1 has beautifully frizzled leaves4 ,,ii4 #acj4 ,,ingredients4--#e onions1 #e heads of celery1 #aj moderate-sized potatoes1 #c oz4 butter1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,slice the onions1 celery1 and potatoes1 and put them with the butter and water into a stewpan1 and simmer for an hour4 ,then fill up the stewpan with stock1 and boil gently till the potatoes are done1 which will be in about an hour4 ,rub all through a tammy1 and add the cream 7previously boiled74 ,do not let it boil after the cream is put in4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1#as4 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,may4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this soup can be made with water instead of stock4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,julienne4 ,illustration3 ,,strips ,,of ,,vegetable4 #aca4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of carrots1 #a_/b pint of turnips1 #a_/d pint of onions1 #b or #c leeks1 #a_/b head of celery1 #a lettuce1 a little sorrel and chervil1 if liked1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,cut the vegetables into strips of about #a-a_/d inch long1 and be particular they are all the same size1 or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp4 ,cut the lettuce1 sorrel1 and chervil into larger pieces2 fry the carrots in the butter1 and pour the stock boiling to them4 ,when this is done1 add all the other vegetables1 and herbs1 and stew gently for at least an hour4 ,skim off all the fat1 pour the soup over thin slices of bread1 cut round about the size of a shilling1 and serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,in summer1 green peas1 asparagus-tops1 ,french beans1 c4 can be added4 ,when the vegetables are very strong1 instead of frying them in butter at first1 they should be blanched1 and afterwards simmered in the stock4 ,,sorrel4--,this is one of the spinaceous plants1 which take their name from spinach1 which is the chief among them4 ,it is little used in ,english cookery1 but a great deal in ,french1 in which it is employed for soups1 sauces1 and salads4 ,in ,english meadows it is usually left to grow wild2 but in ,france1 where it is cultivated1 its flavour is greatly improved4 ,,kale ,,brose 7a ,scotch ,recipe74 #acb4 ,,ingredients4--,half an ox-head or cow-heel1 a teacupful of toasted oatmeal1 salt to taste1 #b handfuls of greens1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel1 and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor1 then boil the greens1 shred1 in it4 ,put the oatmeal1 with a little salt1 into a basin1 and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth3 it should not run into one doughy mass1 but form knots4 ,stir it into the whole1 give one boil1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,leek ,,soup4 ,i4 #acc4 ,,ingredients4--,a sheep's head1 #c quarts of water1 #ab leeks cut small1 pepper and salt to taste1 oatmeal to thicken4 ,mode4--,prepare the head1 either by skinning or cleaning the skin very nicely2 split it in two2 take out the brains1 and put it into boiling water2 add the leeks and seasoning1 and simmer very gently for #d hours4 ,mix smoothly1 with cold water1 as much oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably thick2 pour it into the soup2 continue stirring till the whole is blended and well done1 and serve4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,ii4 ,,commonly ,,called ,,cock-,a-,,leekie4 #acd4 ,,ingredients4--,a capon or large fowl 7sometimes an old cock1 from which the recipe takes its name1 is used71 which should be trussed as for boiling2 #b or #c bunches of fine leeks1 #e quarts of stock ,no4 #aje1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,well wash the leeks 7and1 if old1 scald them in boiling water for a few minutes71 taking off the roots and part of the heads1 and cut them into lengths of about an inch4 ,put the fowl into the stock1 with1 at first1 one half of the leeks1 and allow it to simmer gently4 ,in half an hour add the remaining leeks1 and then it may simmer for #c or #d hours longer4 ,it should be carefully skimmed1 and can be seasoned to taste4 ,in serving1 take out the fowl1 and carve it neatly1 placing the pieces in a tureen1 and pouring over them the soup1 which should be very thick of leeks 7a pure of leeks the ,french would call it74 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per quart2 or1 with stock ,no4 #ajf1 #as4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,without the fowl1 the above1 which would then be merely called leek soup1 is very good1 and also economical4 ,cock-a-leekie was largely consumed at the ,burns ,centenary ,festival at the ,crystal ,palace1 ,sydenham1 in #ahei4 ,illustration3 ,,leeks4 ,,the ,,leek4--,as in the case of the cucumber1 this vegetable was bewailed by the ,israelites in their journey through the desert4 ,it is one of the alliaceous tribe1 which consists of the onion1 garlic1 chive1 shallot1 and leek4 ,these1 as articles of food1 are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than any other genus of edible plants4 ,it is the national badge of the ,welsh1 and tradition ascribes to ,st4 ,david its introduction to that part of ,britain4 ,the origin of the wearing of the leek on ,st4 ,david's day1 among that people1 is thus given in ,,beeton',s ,,dictionary of ,,universal ,,information3--,it probably originated from the custom of ,cymhortha1 or the friendly aid1 practised among farmers4 ,in some districts of ,south ,wales1 all the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plough his land1 and the like2 and1 at such time1 it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup4 7,see ,,st4 ,,david47 ,others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of ,cressy4 ,the plant1 when grown in ,wales and ,scotland1 is sharper than it is in ,england1 and its flavour is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth4 ,it is very wholesome1 and1 to prevent its tainting the breath1 should be well boiled4 ,,macaroni ,,soup4 #ace4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of macaroni1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 salt to taste1 #b quarts of clear stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water1 with a pinch of salt1 and simmer for #a_/b an hour4 ,when it is tender1 drain and cut it into thin rings or lengths1 and drop it into the boiling stock4 ,stew gently for #ae minutes1 and serve grated ,parmesan cheese with it4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,macaroni4 ,,macaroni4--,this is the favourite food of ,italy1 where1 especially among the ,neapolitans1 it may be regarded as the staff of life4 ,the crowd of ,london1 says ,mr4 ,forsyth1 is a double line in quick motion2 it is the crowd of business4 ,the crowd of ,naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down1 and in the middle of this tide1 a hundred eddies of men4 ,you are stopped by a carpenter's bench1 you are lost among shoemakers' stalls1 and you dash among the pots of a macaroni stall4 ,this article of food is nothing more than a thick paste1 made of the best wheaten flour1 with a small quantity of water4 ,when it has been well worked1 it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel1 pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom4 ,through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the cylinder4 ,whilst issuing from the holes1 it is partially baked by a fire placed below the cylinder1 and is1 at the same time1 drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room1 in order to dry4 ,in a few days it is fit for use4 ,as it is both wholesome and nutritious1 it ought to be much more used by all classes in ,england than it is4 ,it generally accompanies ,parmesan cheese to the tables of the rich1 but is also used for thickening soups and making puddings4 ,,soup ,,maigre 7i4e4 without ,meat74 #acf4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 butter1 #f onions sliced1 #d heads of celery1 #b lettuces1 a small bunch of parsley1 #b handfuls of spinach1 #c pieces of bread-crust1 #b blades of mace1 salt and pepper to taste1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #c teaspoonfuls of vinegar1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,melt the butter in a stewpan1 and put in the onions to stew gently for #c or #d minutes2 then add the celery1 spinach1 lettuces1 and parsley1 cut small4 ,stir the ingredients well for #aj minutes4 ,now put in the water1 bread1 seasoning1 and mace4 ,boil gently for #a-a_/b hour1 and1 at the moment of serving1 beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar1 but do not let it boil1 or the eggs will curdle4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,lettuce4 ,,the ,,lettuce4--,this is one of the acetarious vegetables1 which comprise a large class1 chiefly used as pickles1 salads1 and other condiments4 ,the lettuce has in all antiquity been distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant4 ,it was1 without preparation1 eaten by the ,hebrews with the ,paschal lamb2 the ,greeks delighted in it1 and the ,romans1 in the time of ,domitian1 had it prepared with eggs1 and served in the first course at their tables1 merely to excite their appetites4 ,its botanical name is ,lactuca1 so called from the milky juice it exudes when its stalks are cut4 ,it possesses a narcotic virtue1 noticed by ancient physicians2 and even in our day a lettuce supper is deemed conducive to repose4 ,its proper character1 however1 is that of a cooling summer vegetable1 not very nutritive1 but serving as a corrective1 or diluent of animal food4 ,,milk ,,soup 7a ,nice ,dish for ,children74 #acg4 ,,ingredients4--#b quarts of milk1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 #a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon1 #c teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar1 or more if liked1 #d thin slices of bread1 the yolks of #f eggs4 ,mode4--,boil the milk with the salt1 cinnamon1 and sugar2 lay the bread in a deep dish1 pour over it a little of the milk1 and keep it hot over a stove1 without burning4 ,beat up the yolks of the eggs1 add them to the milk1 and stir it over the fire till it thickens4 ,do not let it curdle4 ,pour it upon the bread1 and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d of an hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #aj children4 ,,onion ,,soup4 #ach4 ,,ingredients4--#f large onions1 #b oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a_/d pint of cream1 #a quart of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,chop the onions1 put them in the butter1 stir them occasionally1 but do not let them brown4 ,when tender1 put the stock to them1 and season2 strain the soup1 and add the boiling cream4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,cheap ,,onion ,,soup4 #aci4 ,,ingredients4--#h middling-sized onions1 #c oz4 of butter1 a tablespoonful of rice-flour1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut the onions small1 put them in the stewpan with the butter1 and fry them well2 mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water1 add the onions1 seasoning1 and sugar1 and simmer till tender4 ,thicken with butter and flour1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1#d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,onion4 ,,the ,,onion4--,like the cabbage1 this plant was erected into an object of worship by the idolatrous ,egyptians #b1jjj years before the ,christian era1 and it still forms a favourite food in the country of these people1 as well as in other parts of ,africa4 ,when it was first introduced to ,england1 has not been ascertained2 but it has long been in use1 and esteemed as a favourite seasoning plant to various dishes4 ,in warmer climates it is much milder in its flavour2 and such as are grown in ,spain and ,portugal1 are1 comparatively speaking1 very large1 and are often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state4 ,the ,strasburg is the most esteemed2 and1 although all the species have highly nutritive properties1 they impart such a disagreeable odour to the breath1 that they are often rejected even where they are liked4 ,chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this odour4 ,,pan ,,kail4 #adj4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of cabbage1 or ,savoy greens2 #a_/d lb4 of butter or dripping1 salt and pepper to taste1 oatmeal for thickening1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,chop the cabbage very fine1 thicken the water with oatmeal1 put in the cabbage and butter1 or dripping2 season and simmer for #a-a_/b hour4 ,it can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens1 adding any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in1 and then further thicken with bread or pounded biscuit4 ,time--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,the ,,savoy4--,this is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage1 sweet and tender1 especially the middle leaves1 and in season from ,november to spring4 ,the yellow species bears hard weather without injury1 whilst the dwarf kind are improved and rendered more tender by frost4 ,,parsnip ,,soup4 #ada4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of sliced parsnips1 #b oz4 of butter1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #a quart of stock ,no4 #ajf4 ,mode4--,put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter1 which has been previously melted1 and simmer them till quite tender4 ,then add nearly a pint of stock1 and boil together for half an hour4 ,pass all through a fine strainer1 and put to it the remainder of the stock4 ,season1 boil1 and serve immediately4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,april4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,the ,,parsnip4--,this is a biennial plant1 with a root like a carrot1 which1 in nutritive and saccharine matter1 it nearly equals4 ,it is a native of ,britain1 and1 in its wild state1 may be found1 in many parts1 growing by the road-sides4 ,it is also to be found1 generally distributed over ,europe2 and1 in ,catholic countries1 is mostly used with salt fish1 in ,lent4 ,in ,scotland it forms an excellent dish1 when beat up with butter and potatoes2 it is1 also1 excellent when fried4 ,in ,ireland it is found to yield1 in conjunction with the hop1 a pleasant beverage2 and it contains as much spirit as the carrot1 and makes an excellent wine4 ,its proportion of nutritive matter is #ii parts in #a1jjj2 #i being mucilage and #ij sugar4 ,,pea ,,soup 7,,green74 #adb4 ,,ingredients4--#c pints of green peas1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b or three thin slices of ham1 #f onions sliced1 #d shredded lettuces1 the crumb of #b ,french rolls1 #b handfuls of spinach1 #a lump of sugar1 #b quarts of common stock4 ,mode4--,put the butter1 ham1 #a quart of the peas1 onions1 and lettuces1 to a pint of stock1 and simmer for an hour2 then add the remainder of the stock1 with the crumb of the ,french rolls1 and boil for another hour4 ,now boil the spinach1 and squeeze it very dry4 ,rub the soup through a sieve1 and the spinach with it1 to colour it4 ,have ready a pint of young peas boiled2 add them to the soup1 put in the sugar1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,if necessary1 add salt4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,june to the end of ,august4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,it will be well to add1 if the peas are not quite young1 a little sugar4 ,where economy is essential1 water may be used instead of stock for this soup1 boiling in it likewise the pea-shells2 but use a double quantity of vegetables4 ,,winter ,,pea ,,soup 7,,yellow74 #adc4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of split peas1 #b lbs4 of shin of beef1 trimmings of meat or poultry1 a slice of bacon1 #b large carrots1 #b turnips1 #e large onions1 #a head of celery1 seasoning to taste1 #b quarts of soft water1 any bones left from roast meat1 #b quarts of common stock1 or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled4 ,mode4--,put the peas to soak over-night in soft water1 and float off such as rise to the top4 ,boil them in the water till tender enough to pulp2 then add the ingredients mentioned above1 and simmer for #b hours1 stirring it occasionally4 ,pass the whole through a sieve1 skim well1 season1 and serve with toasted bread cut in dice4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year round1 but more suitable for cold weather4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,illustration3 ,,pea4 ,,the ,,pea4--,it is supposed that the common gray pea1 found wild in ,greece1 and other parts of the ,levant1 is the original of the common garden pea1 and of all the domestic varieties belonging to it4 ,the gray1 or field pea1 called bisallie by the ,french1 is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds1 and is considered by some1 perhaps on that account1 to be the wild plant1 retaining still a large proportion of its original habit4 ,from the tendency of all other varieties to run away and become different to what they originally were1 it is very difficult to determine the races to which they belong4 ,the pea was well known to the ,romans1 and1 probably1 was introduced to ,britain at an early period2 for we find peas mentioned by ,lydgate1 a poet of the #aeth century1 as being hawked in ,london4 ,they seem1 however1 for a considerable time1 to have fallen out of use2 for1 in the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth1 ,fuller tells us they were brought from ,holland1 and were accounted fit dainties for ladies1 they came so far and cost so dear4 ,there are some varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods1 which are eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans4 ,they are called sugar peas1 and the best variety is the large crooked sugar1 which is also very good1 used in the common way1 as a culinary vegetable4 ,there is also a white sort1 which readily splits when subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart1 so as not to grind them4 ,these are used largely for soups1 and especially for sea-stores4 ,from the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine matter contained in the pea1 it is highly nutritious as an article of food4 ,,pea ,,soup 7inexpensive74 #add4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of onions1 #a_/d lb4 of carrots1 #b oz4 of celery1 #c_/d lb4 of split peas1 a little mint1 shred fine2 #a tablespoonful of coarse brown sugar1 salt and pepper to taste1 #d quarts of water1 or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled4 ,mode4--,fry the vegetables for #aj minutes in a little butter or dripping1 previously cutting them up in small pieces2 pour the water on them1 and when boiling add the peas4 ,let them simmer for nearly #c hours1 or until the peas are thoroughly done4 ,add the sugar1 seasoning1 and mint2 boil for #a_/d of an hour1 and serve4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,,potato ,,soup4 ,i4 #ade4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of mealy potatoes1 boiled or steamed very dry1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,when the potatoes are boiled1 mash them smoothly1 that no lumps remain1 and gradually put them to the boiling stock2 pass it through a sieve1 season1 and simmer for #e minutes4 ,skim well1 and serve with fried bread4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,ii4 #adf4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of shin of beef1 #a lb4 of potatoes1 #a onion1 #a_/b a pint of peas1 #b oz4 of rice1 #b heads of celery1 pepper and salt to taste1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into thin slices1 chop the potatoes and onion1 and put them in a stewpan with the water1 peas1 and rice4 ,stew gently till the gravy is drawn from the meat2 strain it off1 take out the beef1 and pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve4 ,put the pulp back in the soup1 cut up the celery in it1 and simmer till this is tender4 ,season1 and serve with fried bread cut into it4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,,iii4 7,very ,economical47 #adg4 ,,ingredients4--#d middle-sized potatoes well pared1 a thick slice of bread1 #f leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the white extends upwards from the roots1 a teacupful of rice1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and half that of pepper1 and #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,the water must be completely boiling before anything is put into it2 then add the whole of the ingredients at once1 with the exception of the rice1 the salt1 and the pepper4 ,cover1 and let these come to a brisk boil2 put in the others1 and let the whole boil slowly for an hour1 or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done1 and their several juices extracted and mixed4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 per quart4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,illustration3 ,,potatoes4 ,,the ,,potato4--,humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of ,south ,america2 but it has been found growing wild both in ,chili and ,buenos ,ayres4 ,it was first brought to ,spain from the neighbourhood of ,quito1 in the early part of the sixteenth century1 first to ,england from ,virginia1 in #aehf1 and first planted by ,sir ,walter ,raleigh1 on his estate of ,youghal1 near ,cork1 in ,ireland4 ,thence it was brought and planted in ,lancashire1 in ,england1 and was1 at first1 recommended to be eaten as a delicate dish1 and not as common food4 ,this was in #aehg4 ,nutritious ,properties4--,of a thousand parts of the potato1 ,sir ,h4 ,davy found about a fourth nutritive2 say1 #bjj mucilage or starch1 #bj sugar1 and #cj gluten4 ,,prince ,,of ,,wales',s ,,soup4 #adh4 ,,ingredients4--#ab turnips1 #a lump of sugar1 #b spoonfuls of strong veal stock1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #b quarts of very bright stock1 ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,peel the turnips1 and with a cutter cut them in balls as round as possible1 but very small4 ,put them in the stock1 which must be very bright1 and simmer till tender4 ,add the veal stock and seasoning4 ,have little pieces of bread cut round1 about the size of a shilling2 moisten them with stock2 put them into a tureen and pour the soup over without shaking1 for fear of crumbling the bread1 which would spoil the appearance of the soup1 and make it look thick4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,seasonable in the winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,the ,,prince ,of ,,wales4--,this soup was invented by a philanthropic friend of the ,editress1 to be distributed among the poor of a considerable village1 when the ,prince of ,wales attained his majority1 on the #ith ,november1 #ahei4 ,accompanying this fact1 the following notice1 which appears in ,,beeton',s ,,dictionary ,,of ,,universal ,,information may appropriately be introduced1 premising that ,british princes attain their majority in their #ahth year1 whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that period till their #bast4--,,albert ,,edward1 ,prince of ,wales1 and heir to the ,british throne1 merits a place in this work on account of the high responsibilities which he is1 in all probability1 destined to fulfil as sovereign of the ,british empire4 ,on the #ajth of ,november1 #aheh1 he was gazetted as having been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army4 ,speaking of this circumstance1 the ,times said1--',the significance of this event is1 that it marks the period when the heir to the ,british throne is about to take rank among men1 and to enter formally upon a career1 which every loyal subject of the queen will pray may be a long and a happy one1 for his own sake and for the sake of the vast empire which1 in the course of nature1 he will one day be called to govern4 ,the best wish that we can offer for the young prince is1 that in his own path he may ever keep before him the bright example of his royal mother1 and show himself worthy of her name4' ,there are few in these realms who will not give a fervent response to these sentiments4 ,b4 ,november #ith1 #ahda4 ,,potage ,,printanier1 ,,or ,,spring ,,soup4 #adi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b a pint of green peas1 if in season1 a little chervil1 #b shredded lettuces1 #b onions1 a very small bunch of parsley1 #b oz4 of butter1 the yolks of #c eggs1 #a pint of water1 seasoning to taste1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,put in a very clean stewpan the chervil1 lettuces1 onions1 parsley1 and butter1 to #a pint of water1 and let them simmer till tender4 ,season with salt and pepper2 when done1 strain off the vegetables1 and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the stock4 ,beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third1 give it a toss over the fire1 and at the moment of serving1 add this1 with the vegetables which you strained off1 to the soup4 ,time4--#c_/d of an hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,october4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,rice ,,soup4 ,i4 #aej4 ,,ingredients4--#d oz4 of ,patna rice1 salt1 cayenne1 and mace1 #b quarts of white stock4 ,mode4--,throw the rice into boiling water1 and let it remain #e minutes2 then pour it into a sieve1 and allow it to drain well4 ,now add it to the stock boiling1 and allow it to stew till it is quite tender2 season to taste4 ,serve quickly4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,ears ,,of ,,rice4 ,,rice4--,this is a plant of ,indian origin1 and has formed the principal food of the ,indian and ,chinese people from the most remote antiquity4 ,both ,pliny and ,dioscorides class it with the cereals1 though ,galen places it among the vegetables4 ,be this as it may1 however1 it was imported to ,greece1 from ,india1 about #bhf years before ,christ1 and by the ancients it was esteemed both nutritious and fattening4 ,there are three kinds of rice1--the ,hill rice1 the ,patna1 and the ,carolina1 of the ,united ,states4 ,of these1 only the two latter are imported to this country1 and the ,carolina is considered the best1 as it is the dearest4 ,the nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior to those of wheat2 but it is both a light and a wholesome food4 ,in combination with other foods1 its nutritive qualities are greatly increased2 but from its having little stimulating power1 it is apt1 when taken in large quantities alone1 to lie long on the stomach4 ,,ii4 #aea4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 the yolks of #d eggs1 #a_/b a pint of cream1 rather more than #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,boil the rice in the stock1 and rub half of it through a tammy2 put the stock in the stewpan1 add all the rice1 and simmer gently for #e minutes4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs1 mix them with the cream 7previously boiled71 and strain through a hair sieve2 take the soup off the fire1 add the eggs and cream1 stirring frequently4 ,heat it gradually1 stirring all the time2 but do not let it boil1 or the eggs will curdle4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,sago ,,soup4 #aeb4 ,,ingredients4--#e oz4 of sago1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,wash the sago in boiling water1 and add it1 by degrees1 to the boiling stock1 and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved1 and forms a sort of jelly4 ,time4--,nearly an hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per quart4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,note4--,the yolks of #b eggs1 beaten up with a little cream1 previously boiled1 and added at the moment of serving1 much improves this soup4 ,illustration3 ,,sago ,,palm4 ,,sago4--,the farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of the ,,sago tree 7the ,sagus farinifera of ,linnaeus71 which grows spontaneously in the ,east ,indies and in the archipelago of the ,indian ,ocean4 ,there it forms the principal farinaceous diet of the inhabitants4 ,in order to procure it1 the tree is felled and sawn in pieces4 ,the pith is then taken out1 and put in receptacles of cold water1 where it is stirred until the flour separates from the filaments1 and sinks to the bottom1 where it is suffered to remain until the water is poured off1 when it is taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry4 ,to give it the round granular form in which we find it come to this country1 it is passed through a colander1 then rubbed into little balls1 and dried4 ,the tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a growth of seven years1 when a single trunk will yield #fjj lbs4 weight2 and1 as an acre of ground will grow #dcj of these trees1 a large return of flour is the result4 ,the best quality has a slightly reddish hue1 and easily dissolves to a jelly1 in hot water4 ,as a restorative diet1 it is much used4 ,,semolina ,,soup4 #aec4 ,,ingredients4--#e oz4 of semolina1 #b quarts of boiling stock1 ,no4 #aje1 or #ajf4 ,mode4--,drop the semolina into the boiling stock1 and keep stirring1 to prevent its burning4 ,simmer gently for half an hour1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b an hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per quart1 or #d;d4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,semolina4--,this is the heart of the grano duro wheat of ,italy1 which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli4 ,it has a coarse appearance1 and may be purchased at the ,italian warehouses4 ,it is also called soojee2 and semoletta is another name for a finer sort4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,solferino 7,sardinian ,recipe74 #aed4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b oz4 of fresh butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 a little flour to thicken1 #b quarts of bouillon1 ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,beat the eggs1 put them into a stewpan1 and add the cream1 butter1 and seasoning2 stir in as much flour as will bring it to the consistency of dough2 make it into balls1 either round or egg-shaped1 and fry them in butter2 put them in the tureen1 and pour the boiling bouillon over them4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this recipe was communicated to the ,editress by an ,english gentleman1 who was present at the battle of ,solferino1 on ,june #bd1 #ahei1 and who was requested by some of ,victor ,emmanuel's troops1 on the day before the battle1 to partake of a portion of their potage4 ,he willingly enough consented1 and found that these clever campaigners had made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials4 ,in sending the recipe for insertion in this work1 he has1 however1 ,anglicised1 and somewhat1 he thinks1 improved it4 ,,spinach ,,soup 7,french ,recipe74 #aee4 ,,ingredients4--,as much spinach as1 when boiled1 will half fill a vegetable-dish1 #b quarts of very clear medium stock1 ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg1 and slip them into the soup-tureen4 ,this is a very elegant soup1 the green of the spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1#as4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,june4 ,illustration3 ,,spinach4 ,,spinach4--,this plant was unknown by the ancients1 although it was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the middle of the #adth century4 ,some say1 that it was originally brought from ,spain2 but there is a wild species growing in ,england1 and cultivated in ,lincolnshire1 in preference to the other4 ,there are three varieties in use2 the round-leaved1 the triangular-leaved1 and ,flanders spinach1 known by its large leaves4 ,they all form a useful ingredient in soup2 but the leaves are sometimes boiled alone1 mashed1 and eaten as greens4 ,,tapioca ,,soup4 #aef4 ,,ingredients4--#e oz4 of tapioca1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje or #ajf4 ,mode4--,put the tapioca into cold stock1 and bring it gradually to a boil4 ,simmer gently till tender1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost4 #as4 or #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,tapioca4--,this excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the pith of the cassava-tree1 and is made in the ,east ,indies1 and also in ,brazil4 ,it is1 by washing1 procured as a starch from the tree1 then dried1 either in the sun or on plates of hot iron1 and afterwards broken into grains1 in which form it is imported into this country4 ,its nutritive properties are large1 and as a food for persons of delicate digestion1 or for children1 it is in great estimation4 ,no amylaceous substance1 says ,dr4 ,christison1 is so much relished by infants about the time of weaning2 and in them it is less apt to become sour during digestion than any other farinaceous food1 even arrowroot not excepted4 ,,turnip ,,soup4 #aeg4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of butter1 #i good-sized turnips1 #d onions1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #ajf1 seasoning to taste4 ,mode4--,melt the butter in the stewpan1 but do not let it boil2 wash1 drain1 and slice the turnips and onions very thin2 put them in the butter1 with a teacupful of stock1 and stew very gently for an hour4 ,then add the remainder of the stock1 and simmer another hour4 ,rub it through a tammy1 put it back into the stewpan1 but do not let it boil4 ,serve very hot4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,by adding a little cream1 this soup will be much improved4 ,illustration3 ,,turnip4 ,,the ,,turnip4--,although turnips grow wild in ,england1 they are not the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this country4 ,in ancient times they were grown for cattle by the ,romans1 and in ,germany and the ,low ,countries they have from time immemorial been raised for the same purpose4 ,in their cultivated state1 they are generally supposed to have been introduced to ,england from ,hanover1 in the time of ,george ,i42 but this has been doubted1 as ,george ,,ii4 caused a description of the ,norfolk system to be sent to his ,hanoverian subjects1 for their enlightenment in the art of turnip culture4 ,as a culinary vegetable1 it is excellent1 whether eaten alone1 mashed1 or mixed with soups und stews4 ,its nutritious matter1 however1 is small1 being only #db parts in #a1jjj4 ,,vegetable-,,marrow ,,soup4 #aeh4 ,,ingredients4--#d young vegetable marrows1 or more1 if very small1 #a_/b pint of cream1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #b quarts of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the marrows1 and put them in the stock boiling4 ,when done almost to a mash1 press them through a sieve1 and at the moment of serving1 add the boiling cream and seasoning4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in summer4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 ,,the ,,vegetable ,,marrow4--,this is a variety of the gourd family1 brought from ,persia by an ,east-,india ship1 and only recently introduced to ,britain4 ,it is already cultivated to a considerable extent1 and1 by many1 is highly esteemed when fried with butter4 ,it is1 however1 dressed in different ways1 either by stewing or boiling1 and1 besides1 made into pies4 ,,vegetable ,,soup4 ,i4 #aei4 ,,ingredients4--#g oz4 of carrot1 #aj oz4 of parsnip1 #aj oz4 of potato1 cut into thin slices2 #a-a_/d oz4 of butter1 #e teaspoonfuls of flour1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 salt and pepper to taste1 the yolks of #b eggs1 rather more than #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,boil the vegetables in the water #b-a_/b hours2 stir them often1 and if the water boils away too quickly1 add more1 as there should be #b quarts of soup when done4 ,mix up in a basin the butter and flour1 mustard1 salt1 and pepper1 with a teacupful of cold water2 stir in the soup1 and boil #aj minutes4 ,have ready the yolks of the eggs in the tureen2 pour on1 stir well1 and serve4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,ii4 #afj4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of onions1 carrots1 turnips2 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 a crust of toasted bread1 #a head of celery1 a faggot of herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 #b quarts of common stock or boiling water4 ,allow #c_/d lb4 of vegetables to #b quarts of stock1 ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,cut up the onions1 carrots1 and turnips2 wash and drain them well1 and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar4 ,toss the whole over a sharp fire for #aj minutes1 but do not let them brown1 or you will spoil the flavour of the soup4 ,when done1 pour the stock or boiling water on them2 add the bread1 celery1 herbs1 and seasoning2 stew for #c hours2 skim well and strain it off4 ,when ready to serve1 add a little sliced carrot1 celery1 and turnip1 and flavour with a spoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 or a little ketchup4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1#f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,iii4 7,good and ,cheap1 made without ,meat47 #afa4 ,,ingredients4--#f potatoes1 #d turnips1 or #b if very large2 #b carrots1 #b onions2 if obtainable1 #b mushrooms2 #a head of celery1 #a large slice of bread1 #a small saltspoonful of salt1 #a_/d saltspoonful of ground black pepper1 #b teaspoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce1 #f quarts of water4 ,mode4--,peel the vegetables1 and cut them up into small pieces2 toast the bread rather brown1 and put all into a stewpan with the water and seasoning4 ,simmer gently for #c hours1 or until all is reduced to a pulp1 and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup1 which it should resemble in consistence2 but it should be a dark brown colour4 ,warm it up again when required2 put in the ,harvey's sauce1 and1 if necessary1 add to the flavouring4 ,time4--#c hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1#a;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #af persons4 ,note4--,this recipe was forwarded to the ,editress by a lady in the county of ,durham1 by whom it was strongly recommended4 ,,vermicelli ,,soup4 ,i4 #afb4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of bacon1 stuck with cloves2 #a_/b oz4 of butter1 worked up in flour2 #a small fowl1 trussed for boiling2 #b oz4 of vermicelli1 #b quarts of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg4 ,mode4--,put the stock1 bacon1 butter1 and fowl into the stewpan1 and stew for #c_/d of an hour4 ,take the vermicelli1 add it to a little of the stock1 and set it on the fire1 till it is quite tender4 ,when the soup is ready1 take out the fowl and bacon1 and put the bacon on a dish4 ,skim the soup as clean as possible2 pour it1 with the vermicelli1 over the fowl4 ,cut some bread thin1 put in the soup1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl and bacon1 #aj;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,illustration3 ,,vermicelli4 ,,vermicelli4--,this is a preparation of ,italian origin1 and is made in the same way as macaroni1 only the yolks of eggs1 sugar1 saffron1 and cheese1 are added to the paste4 ,,ii4 #afc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of vermicelli1 #b quarts of clear gravy stock1 ,no4 #afi4 ,mode4--,put the vermicelli in the soup1 boiling2 simmer very gently for #a_/b an hour1 and stir frequently4 ,time--#a_/b an hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,white ,,soup4 #afd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/d lb4 of cold veal or poultry1 a thick slice of stale bread1 a piece of fresh lemon-peel1 #a blade of mace1 pounded1 #c_/d pint of cream1 the yolks of #b hard-boiled eggs1 #b quarts of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg4 ,mode4--,reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste1 with a spoonful of water1 and add to them the meat1 which should be previously pounded with the bread4 ,beat all together1 and add the lemon-peel1 very finely chopped1 and the mace4 ,pour the boiling stock on the whole1 and simmer for an hour4 ,rub the eggs in the cream1 put in the soup1 bring it to a boil1 and serve immediately4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,a more economical white soup may be made by using common veal stock1 and thickening with rice1 flour1 and milk4 ,vermicelli should be served with it4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 per quart4 ,,useful ,,soup ,,for ,,benevolent ,,purposes4 #afe4 ,,ingredients4--,an ox-cheek1 any pieces of trimmings of beef1 which may be bought very cheaply 7say #d lbs471 a few bones1 any pot-liquor the larder may furnish1 #a_/d peck of onions1 #f leeks1 a large bunch of herbs1 #a_/b lb4 of celery 7the outside pieces1 or green tops1 do very well72 #a_/b lb4 of carrots1 #a_/b lb4 of turnips1 #a_/b lb4 of coarse brown sugar1 #a_/b a pint of beer1 #d lbs4 of common rice1 or pearl barley2 #a_/b lb4 of salt1 #a oz4 of black pepper1 a few raspings1 #aj gallons of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the meat in small pieces1 break the bones1 put them in a copper1 with the #aj gallons of water1 and stew for #a_/b an hour4 ,cut up the vegetables1 put them in with the sugar and beer1 and boil for #d hours4 ,two hours before the soup is wanted1 add the rice and raspings1 and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup1 which simmer gently4 ,if the liquor reduces too much1 fill up with water4 ,time4--#f-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 per quart4 ,note4--,the above recipe was used in the winter of #aheh by the ,editress1 who made1 each week1 in her copper1 #h or #i gallons of this soup1 for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village near which she lives4 ,the cost1 as will be seen1 was not great2 but she has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked1 and gave to the members of those families1 a dish of warm1 comforting food1 in place of the cold meat and piece of bread which form1 with too many cottagers1 their usual meal1 when1 with a little more knowledge of the cooking4 art1 they might have1 for less expense1 a warm dish1 every day4 ,,meat1 ,,poultry1 ,,and ,,game ,,soups4 ,,brilla ,,soup4 #aff4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of shin of beef1 #c carrots1 #b turnips1 a large sprig of thyme1 #b onions1 #a head of celery1 salt and pepper to taste1 #d quarts water4 ,mode4--,take the beef1 cut off all the meat from the bone1 in nice square pieces1 and boil the bone for #d hours4 ,strain the liquor1 let it cool1 and take off the fat2 then put the pieces of meat in the cold liquor2 cut small the carrots1 turnips1 and celery2 chop the onions1 add them with the thyme and seasoning1 and simmer till the meat is tender4 ,if not brown enough1 colour it with browning4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,thyme4--,this sweet herb was known to the ,romans1 who made use of it in culinary preparations1 as well as in aromatic liqueurs4 ,there are two species of it growing wild in ,britain1 but the garden thyme is a native of the south of ,europe1 and is more delicate in its perfume than the others4 ,its young leaves give an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces2 they are also used in stuffings4 ,,calf',s-,,head ,,soup4 #afg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b a calf's head1 #a onion stuck with cloves1 a very small bunch of sweet herbs1 #b blades of mace1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #f oz4 of rice-flour1 #c tablespoonfuls of ketchup1 #c quarts of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 or pot-liquor1 or water4 ,mode4--,rub the head with salt1 soak it for #f hours1 and clean it thoroughly2 put it in the stewpan1 and cover it with the stock1 or pot-liquor1 or water1 adding the onion and sweet herbs4 ,when well skimmed and boiled for #a-a_/b hour1 take out the head1 and skim and strain the soup4 ,mix the rice-flour with the ketchup1 thicken the soup with it1 and simmer for #e minutes4 ,now cut up the head into pieces about two inches long1 and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are quite tender4 ,season with white pepper and mace finely pounded1 and serve very hot4 ,when the calf's head is taken out of the soup1 cover it up1 or it will discolour4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1#as4 #i;d4 per quart1 with stock ,no4 #ajg4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,october4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,force-meat balls can be added1 and the soup may be flavoured with a little lemon-juice1 or a glass of sherry or ,madeira4 ,the bones from the head may be stewed down again1 with a few fresh vegetables1 and it will make a very good common stock4 ,,giblet ,,soup4 #afh4 ,,ingredients4--#c sets of goose or duck giblets1 #b lbs4 of shin of beef1 a few bones1 #a ox-tail1 #b mutton-shanks1 #b large onions1 #b carrots1 #a large faggot of herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a_/d pint of cream1 #a oz4 of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,scald the giblets1 cut the gizzards in #h pieces1 and put them in a stewpan with the beef1 bones1 ox-tail1 mutton-shanks1 onions1 herbs1 pepper1 and salt2 add the #c quarts of water1 and simmer till the giblets are tender1 taking care to skim well4 ,when the giblets are done1 take them out1 put them in your tureen1 strain the soup through a sieve1 add the cream and butter1 mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour1 boil it up a few minutes1 and pour it over the giblets4 ,it can be flavoured with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup1 instead of cream4 ,add salt to taste4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1#i;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,gravy ,,soup4 #afi4 ,,ingredients4--#f lbs4 of shin of beef1 a knuckle of veal weighing #e lbs41 a few pieces or trimmings1 #b slices of nicely-flavoured lean1 ham2 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b onions1 #b carrots1 #a turnip1 nearly a head of celery1 #a blade of mace1 #f cloves1 a hunch of savoury herb with endive1 seasoning of salt and pepper to taste1 #c lumps of sugar1 #e quarts of boiling soft water4 ,it can be flavoured with ketchup1 ,leamington sauce 7see ,,sauces71 ,harvey's sauce1 and a little soy4 ,mode4--,slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter1 but do not let them burn4 ,when this is done1 pour to it the water1 and as the scum rises1 take it off2 when no more appears1 add all the other ingredients1 and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for #f hours without stirring it any more from the bottom2 take it off1 and let it settle2 skim off all the fat you can1 and pass it through a tammy4 ,when perfectly cold1 you can remove all the fat1 and leave the sediment untouched1 which serves very nicely for thick gravies1 hashes1 c4 ,time4--#g hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #ad persons4 ,,endive4--,this plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of vegetables1 and is supposed to have originally come from ,china and ,japan4 ,it was known to the ancients2 but was not introduced to ,england till about the middle of the #afth century4 ,it is consumed in large quantities by the ,french1 and in ,london1--in the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance2--it is greatly used as a winter salad1 as well as in soups and stews4 ,,hare ,,soup4 ,i4 #agj4 ,,ingredients4--,a hare fresh-killed1 #a lb4 of lean gravy-beef1 a slice of ham1 #a carrot1 #b onions1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/d oz4 of whole black pepper1 a little browned flour1 #a_/d pint of port wine1 the crumb of two ,french rolls1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,skin and paunch the hare1 saving the liver and as much blood as possible4 ,cut it in pieces1 and put it in a stewpan with all the ingredients1 and simmer gently for #h hours4 ,this soup should be made the day before it is wanted4 ,strain through a sieve1 put the best parts of the hare in the soup1 and serve4 ,,or1 ,,ii4 ,proceed as above2 but1 instead of putting the joints of the hare in the soup1 pick the meat from the bones1 pound it in a mortar1 and add it1 with the crumb of two ,french rolls1 to the soup4 ,rub all through a sieve2 heat slowly1 but do not let it boil4 ,send it to table immediately4 ,time4-#h hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,illustration3 ,,hare4 ,,the ,,common ,,hare4--,this little animal is found throughout ,europe1 and1 indeed1 in most of the northern parts of the world2 and as it is destitute of natural weapons of defence1 ,providence has endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear4 ,as if to awaken the vigilance of this passion1 too1 ,he has furnished it with long and tubular ears1 in order that it may catch the remotest sounds2 and with full1 prominent eyes1 which enable it to see1 at one and the same time1 both before and behind it4 ,the hare feeds in the evenings1 and sleeps1 in its form1 during the day2 and1 as it generally lies on the ground1 its feet1 both below and above1 are protected with a thick covering of hair4 ,its flesh1 though esteemed by the ,romans1 was forbidden by the ,druids and by the earlier ,britons4 ,it is now1 though very dark and dry1 and devoid of fat1 much esteemed by ,europeans1 on account of the peculiarity of its flavour4 ,in purchasing this animal1 it ought to be remembered that both hares and rabbits1 when old1 have their claws rugged and blunt1 their haunches thick1 and their ears dry and tough4 ,the ears of a young hare easily tear1 and it has a narrow cleft in the lip2 whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp4 ,,hessian ,,soup4 #aga4 ,,ingredients4--,half an ox's head1 #a pint of split peas1 #c carrots1 #f turnips1 #f potatoes1 #f onions1 #a head of celery1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b blades of mace1 a little allspice1 #d cloves1 the crumb of a ,french roll1 #f quarts of water4 ,mode4--,clean the head1 rub it with salt and water1 and soak it for #e hours in warm water4 ,simmer it in the water till tender1 put it into a pan and let it cool2 skim off all the fat2 take out the head1 and add the vegetables cut up small1 and the peas which have been previously soaked2 simmer them without the meat1 till they are done enough to pulp through a sieve4 ,add the seasoning1 with pieces of the meat cut up2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #af persons4 ,note4--,an excellent hash or ragot can be made by cutting up the nicest parts of the head1 thickening and seasoning more highly a little of the soup1 and adding a glass of port wine and #b tablespoonfuls of ketchup4 ,,mock ,,turtle4 ,i4 #agb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b a calf's head1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of lean ham1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 a little minced lemon thyme1 sweet marjoram1 basil1 #b onions1 a few chopped mushrooms 7when obtainable71 #b shallots1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a_/d bottle of ,madeira or sherry1 force-meat balls1 cayenne1 salt and mace to taste1 the juice of #a lemon and #a ,seville orange1 #a dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar1 #c quarts of best stock1 ,no4 #ajd4 ,mode4--,scald the head with the skin on1 remove the brain1 tie the head up in a cloth1 and let it boil for #a hour4 ,then take the meat from the bones1 cut it into small square pieces1 and throw them into cold water4 ,now take the meat1 put it into a stewpan1 and cover with stock2 let it boil gently for an hour1 or rather more1 if not quite tender1 and set it on one side4 ,melt the butter in another stewpan1 and add the ham1 cut small1 with the herbs1 parsley1 onions1 shallots1 mushrooms1 and nearly a pint of stock2 let these simmer slowly for #b hours1 and then dredge in as much flour as will dry up the butter4 ,fill up with the remainder of the stock1 add the wine1 let it stew gently for #aj minutes1 rub it through a tammy1 and put it to the calf's head2 season with cayenne1 and1 if required1 a little salt2 add the juice of the orange and lemon2 and when liked1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pounded mace1 and the sugar4 ,put in the force-meat balls1 simmer #e minutes1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 per quart1 or #bs4 #f;d4 without wine or force-meat balls4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,the bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it was first boiled in1 and will make good white stock1 flavoured with vegetables1 etc4 ,,ii4 7,more ,economical47 #agc4 ,,ingredients4--,a knuckle of veal weighing #e or #f lbs41 #b cow-heels1 #b large onions stuck with cloves1 #a bunch of sweet herbs1 #c blades of mace1 salt to taste1 #ab peppercorns1 #a glass of sherry1 #bd force-meat balls1 a little lemon-juice1 #d quarts of water4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients1 except the force-meat balls and lemon-juice1 in an earthen jar1 and stew for #f hours4 ,do not open it till cold4 ,when wanted for use1 skim off all the fat1 and strain carefully2 place it on the fire1 cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half squares1 put it1 with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice1 into the soup1 and serve4 ,it can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy1 or ,harvey's sauce4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,average cost1#as4 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,the ,,calf--,the flesh of this animal is called veal1 and when young1 that is1 under two months old1 yields a large quantity of soluble extract1 and is1 therefore1 much employed for soups and broths4 ,the ,essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for fattening calves better than any others in ,england1 where they are plentifully supplied with milk1 a thing impossible to be done in the immediate neighbourhood of ,london4 ,,marjoram4--,there are several species of this plant2 but that which is preferred for cookery is a native of ,portugal1 and is called sweet or knotted marjoram4 ,when its leaves are dried1 they have an agreeable aromatic flavour2 and hence are used for soups1 stuffings1 c4 ,,basil4--,this is a native of the ,east ,indies1 and is highly aromatic1 having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves4 ,it is not much employed in ,english cookery1 but is a favourite with ,french cooks1 by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads4 ,,mullagatawny ,,soup4 #agd4 ,,ingredients4--#b tablespoonfuls of curry powder1 #f onions1 #a clove of garlic1 #a oz4 of pounded almonds1 a little lemon-pickle1 or mango-juice1 to taste2 #a fowl or rabbit1 #d slices of lean bacon2 #b quarts of medium stock1 or1 if wanted very good1 best stock4 ,mode4-,slice and fry the onions of a nice colour2 line the stewpan with the bacon2 cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints1 and slightly brown them2 put in the fried onions1 the garlic1 and stock1 and simmer gently till the meat is tender2 skim very carefully1 and when the meat is done1 rub the curry powder to a smooth batter2 add it to the soup with the almonds1 which must be first pounded with a little of the stock4 ,put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste1 and serve boiled rice with it4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per quart1 with stock ,no4 #aje4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this soup can also be made with breast of veal1 or calf's head4 ,vegetable ,mullagatawny is made with veal stock1 by boiling and pulping chopped vegetable marrow1 cucumbers1 onions1 and tomatoes1 and seasoning with curry powder and cayenne4 ,nice pieces of meat1 good curry powder1 and strong stock1 are necessary to make this soup good4 ,illustration3 ,,coriander4 ,,coriander4--,this plant1 which largely enters into the composition of curry powder with turmeric1 originally comes from the ,east2 but it has long been cultivated in ,england1 especially in ,essex1 where it is reared for the use of confectioners and druggists4 ,in private gardens1 it is cultivated for the sake of its tender leaves1 which are highly aromatic1 and are employed in soups and salads4 ,its seeds are used in large quantities for the purposes of distillation4 ,a ,,good ,,mutton ,,soup4 #age4 ,,ingredients4--,a neck of mutton about #e or #f lbs41 #c carrots1 #c turnips1 #b onions1 a large bunch of sweet herbs1 including parsley2 salt and pepper to taste2 a little sherry1 if liked2 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire1 and let them remain there the whole day1 stirring occasionally4 ,the next day put the whole into a stewpan1 and place it on a brisk fire4 ,when it commences to boil1 take the pan off the fire1 and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done4 ,when ready for use1 take out the meat1 dish it up with carrots and turnips1 and send it to table2 strain the soup1 let it cool1 skim off all the fat1 season and thicken it with a tablespoonful1 or rather more1 of arrowroot2 flavour with a little sherry1 simmer for #e minutes1 and serve4 ,time4--#ae hours4 ,average cost1 including the meat1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,the ,,sheep4--,this animal formed the principal riches of the patriarchs1 in the days of old1 and1 no doubt1 multiplied1 until its species were spread over the greater part of ,western ,asia2 but at what period it was introduced to ,britain is not known4 ,it is now found in almost every part of the globe1 although1 as a domestic animal1 it depends almost entirely upon man for its support4 ,its value1 however1 amply repays him for whatever care and kindness he may bestow upon it2 for1 like the ox1 there is scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful purpose4 ,the fleece1 which serves it for a covering1 is appropriated by man1 to serve the same end to himself1 whilst its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life4 ,its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments1 and its bones are calcined1 and employed as tests in the trade of the refiner4 ,its milk1 being thicker than that of the cow1 yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese1 and its flesh is among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten4 ,thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep1 when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool4 ,behold1 where bound1 and of its robe bereft ,by needy man1 that all-depending lord1 ,how meek1 how patient1 the mild creature lies6 ,what softness in his melancholy face1 ,what dumb complaining innocence appears6 ,,ox-,,cheek ,,soup4 #agf4 ,,ingredients4--,an ox-cheek1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c or #d slices of lean ham or bacon1 #a parsnip1 #c carrots1 #b onions1 #c heads of celery1 #c blades of mace1 #d cloves1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a bay-leaf1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half that of pepper1 #a head of celery1 browning1 the crust of a ,french roll1 #f quarts of water4 ,mode4--,lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan1 with the butter2 break the bones of the cheek1 wash it clean1 and put it on the ham4 ,cut the vegetables small1 add them to the other ingredients1 and set the whole over a slow fire for #a_/d of an hour4 ,now put in the water1 and simmer gently till it is reduced to #d quarts2 take out the fleshy part of the cheek1 and strain the soup into a clean stewpan2 thicken with flour1 put in a head of sliced celery1 and simmer till the celery is tender4 ,if not a good colour1 use a little browning4 ,cut the meat into small square pieces1 pour the soup over1 and serve with the crust of a ,french roll in the tureen4 ,a glass of sherry much improves this soup4 ,time4--#c to #d hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,,the ,,ox4--,of the quadrupedal animals1 the flesh of those that feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human food4 ,in the early ages1 the ox was used as a religious sacrifice1 and1 in the eyes of the ,egyptians was deemed so sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent ,taurus1 one of the twelve signs of the zodiac4 ,to this day1 the ,hindoos venerate the cow1 whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten1 and whose fat1 supposed to have been employed to grease the cartridges of the ,indian army1 was one of the proximate causes of the great ,sepoy rebellion of #aheg4 ,there are no animals of greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs4 ,there is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the arts and purposes of civilized life4 ,of their horns are made combs1 knife-handles1 boxes1 spoons1 and drinking-cups4 ,they are also made into transparent plates for lanterns2 an invention ascribed1 in ,england1 to ,king ,alfred4 ,glue is made from their gristles1 cartilages1 and portions of their hides4 ,their bones often form a substitute for ivory2 their skins1 when calves1 are manufactured into vellum2 their blood is the basis of ,prussian blue2 their sinews furnish fine and strong threads1 used by saddlers2 their hair enters into various manufactures2 their tallow is made into candles2 their flesh is eaten1 and the utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known4 ,,ox-,,tail ,,soup4 #agg4 ,,ingredients4--#b ox-tails1 #b slices of ham1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b carrots1 #b turnips1 #c onions1 #a leek1 #a head of celery1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a bay-leaf1 #ab whole peppercorns1 #d cloves1 a tablespoonful of salt1 #b tablespoonfuls of ketchup1 #a_/b glass of port wine1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the tails1 separating them at the joints2 wash them1 and put them in a stewpan1 with the butter4 ,cut the vegetables in slices1 and add them1 with the peppercorns and herbs4 ,put in #a_/b pint of water1 and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn4 ,fill up the stewpan with the water1 and1 when boiling1 add the salt4 ,skim well1 and simmer very gently for #d hours1 or until the tails are tender4 ,take them out1 skim and strain the soup1 thicken with flour1 and flavour with the ketchup and port wine4 ,put back the tails1 simmer for #e minutes1 and serve4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,partridge ,,soup4 #agh4 ,,ingredients4--#b partridges1 #c slices of lean ham1 #b shred onions1 #a head of celery1 #a large carrot1 and #a turnip cut into any fanciful shapes1 #a small lump of sugar1 #b oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje1 or common1 ,no4 #ajf4 ,mode4--,cut the partridges into pieces1 and braise them in the butter and ham until quite tender2 then take out the legs1 wings1 and breast1 and set them by4 ,keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise1 and add the onions and celery2 any remains of cold game can be put in1 and #c pints of stock4 ,simmer slowly for #a hour1 strain it1 and skim the fat off as clean as possible2 put in the pieces that were taken out1 give it one boil1 and skim again to have it quite clear1 and add the sugar and seasoning4 ,now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in #a pint of stock2 when quite tender1 put them to the partridges1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 or #as4 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,the meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a ,french roll1 and worked with the soup through a sieve4 ,serve with stewed celery cut in slices1 and put in the tureen4 ,,the ,,partridge4--,this is a timorous bird1 being easily taken4 ,it became known to the ,greeks and ,romans1 whose tables it helped to furnish with food4 ,formerly1 the ,red was scarce in ,italy1 but its place was supplied by the ,white1 which1 at considerable expense1 was frequently procured from the ,alps4 ,the ,athenians trained this bird for fighting1 and ,severus used to lighten the cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats4 ,the ,greeks esteemed its leg most highly1 and rejected the other portions as unfashionable to be eaten4 ,the ,romans1 however1 ventured a little further1 and ate the breast1 whilst we consider the bird as wholly palatable4 ,it is an inhabitant of all the temperate countries of ,europe1 but1 on account of the geniality of the climate1 it abounds most in the ,ukraine4 ,,pheasant ,,soup4 #agi4 ,,ingredients4--#b pheasants1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b slices of ham1 #b large onions sliced1 #a_/b head of celery1 the crumb of two ,french rolls1 the yolks of #b eggs boiled hard1 salt and cayenne to taste1 a little pounded mace1 if liked2 #c quarts of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,cut up the pheasants1 flour and braise them in the butter and ham till they are of a nice brown1 but not burnt4 ,put them in a stewpan1 with the onions1 celery1 and seasoning1 and simmer for #b hours4 ,strain the soup2 pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously soaked1 and the yolks of the eggs2 put it to the soup1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #aj;d4 per quart1 or1 if made with fragments of gold game1 #as4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,february4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,note4--,fragments1 pieces and bones of cold game1 may be used to great advantage in this soup1 and then #a pheasant will suffice4 ,,portable ,,soup4 #ahj4 ,,ingredients4--#b knuckles of veal1 #c shins of beef1 #a large faggot of herbs1 #b bay-leaves1 #b heads of celery1 #c onions1 #c carrots1 #b blades of mace1 #f cloves1 a teaspoonful of salt1 sufficient water to cover all the ingredients4 ,mode4--,take the marrow from the bones2 put all the ingredients in a stock-pot1 and simmer slowly for #ab hours1 or more1 if the meat be not done to rags2 strain it off1 and put it in a very cool place2 take off all the fat1 reduce the liquor in a shallow pan1 by setting it over a sharp fire1 but be particular that it does not burn2 boil it fast and uncovered for #h hours1 and keep it stirred4 ,put it into a deep dish1 and set it by for a day4 ,have ready a stewpan of boiling water1 place the dish in it1 and keep it boiling2 stir occasionally1 and when the soup is thick and ropy1 it is done4 ,form it into little cakes by pouring a small quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins2 when cold1 turn them out on a flannel to dry4 ,keep them from the air in tin canisters4 ,average cost of this quantity1 #afs4 ,note4--,soup can be made in #e minutes with this1 by dissolving a small piece1 about the size of a walnut1 in a pint of warm water1 and simmering for #b minutes4 ,vermicelli1 macaroni1 or other ,italian pastes1 may be added4 ,,the ,,laurel or ,,bay4--,the leaves of this tree frequently enter into the recipes of cookery2 but they ought not to be used without the greatest caution1 and not at all unless the cook is perfectly aware of their effects4 ,it ought to be known1 that there are two kinds of bay-trees1--the ,classic laurel1 whose leaves are comparatively harmless1 and the ,cherry-laurel1 which is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery4 ,they have a kernel-like flavour1 and are used in blanc-mange1 puddings1 custards c42 but when acted upon by water1 they develop prussic acid1 and1 therefore1 but a small number of the leaves should be used at a time4 ,,rabbit ,,soup4 #aha4 ,,ingredients4--#b large rabbits1 or #c small ones2 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/b head of celery1 #b carrots1 #a onion1 #a blade of mace1 salt and white pepper to taste1 a little pounded mace1 #a_/b pint of cream1 the yolks of #b eggs boiled hard1 the crumb of a ,french roll1 nearly #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit1 and keep the nice pieces for a dish or entre4 ,put them into warm water1 and draw the blood2 when quite clean1 put them in a stewpan1 with a faggot of herbs1 and a teacupful1 or rather more1 of veal stock or water4 ,simmer slowly till done through1 and add the #c quarts of water1 and boil for an hour4 ,take out the rabbet1 pick the meat from the bones1 covering it up to keep it white2 put the bones back in the liquor1 add the vegetables1 and simmer for #b hours2 skim and strain1 and let it cool4 ,now pound the meat in a mortar1 with the yolks of the eggs1 and the crumb of the roll previously soaked2 rub it through a tammy1 and gradually add it to the strained liquor1 and simmer for #ae minutes4 ,mix arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream 7say #b dessert-spoonfuls71 and stir in the soup2 bring it to a boil1 and serve4 ,this soup must be very white1 and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour1 vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock1 and put in #e minutes before serving4 ,time4--,nearly #d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,,regency ,,soup4 #ahb4 ,ingredients4--,any bones and remains of any cold game1 such as of pheasants1 partridges1 c42 #b carrots1 #b small onions1 #a head of celery1 #a turnip1 #a_/d lb4 of pearl barley1 the yolks of #c eggs boiled hard1 #a_/d pint of cream1 salt to taste1 #b quarts of stock ,no4 #aje1 or common stock1 ,no4 #ajf4 ,mode4--,place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan1 with the vegetables sliced2 pour over the stock1 and simmer for #b hours2 skim off all the fat1 and strain it4 ,wash the barley1 and boil it in #b or #c waters before putting it to the soup2 finish simmering in the soup1 and when the barley is done1 take out half1 and pound the other half with the yolks of the eggs4 ,when you have finished pounding1 rub it through a clean tammy1 add the cream1 and salt if necessary2 give one boil1 and serve very hot1 putting in the barley that was taken out first4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per quart1 if made with medium stock1 or #f;d4 per quart1 with common stock4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,reine4 ,i4 #ahc4 ,,ingredients4--#a large fowl1 #a oz4 of sweet almonds1 the crumb of #a #a_/b ,french roll1 #a_/b pint of cream1 salt to taste1 #a small lump of sugar1 #b quarts of good white veal stock1 ,no4 #ajg4 ,mode4--,boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender1 which will be in about an hour1 or rather more2 take out the fowl1 pull the meat from the bones1 and put it into a mortar with the almonds1 and pound very fine4 ,when beaten enough1 put the meat back in the stock1 with the crumb of the rolls1 and let it simmer for an hour2 rub it through a tammy1 add the sugar1 #a_/b pint of cream that has boiled1 and1 if you prefer1 cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces1 and pour the soup over it1 when you serve4 ,time4--#b hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #g;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,all white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another of boiling water4 7,see ,,bain ,,marie1 ,no4 #hg47 ,,ii4 7,economical47 #ahd4 ,,ingredients4--,any remains of roast chickens1 #a_/b teacupful of rice1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a quart of stock ,no4 #ajf4 ,mode4--,take all the white meat and pound it with the rice1 which has been slightly cooked1 but not much4 ,when it is all well pounded1 dilute with the stock1 and pass through a sieve4 ,this soup should neither be too clear nor too thick4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,note4--,if stock is not at hand1 put the chicken-bones in water1 with an onion1 carrot1 a few sweet herbs1 a blade of mace1 pepper and salt1 and stew for #c hours4 ,,stew ,,soup ,,of ,,salt ,,meat4 #ahe4 ,,ingredients4--,any pieces of salt beef or pork1 say #b lbs42 #d carrots1 #d parsnips1 #d turnips1 #d potatoes1 #a cabbage1 #b oz4 of oatmeal or ground rice1 seasoning of salt and pepper1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the meat small1 add the water1 and let it simmer for #bc_/d hours4 ,now add the vegetables1 cut in thin small slices2 season1 and boil for #a hour4 ,thicken with the oatmeal1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 per quart without the meat4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,note4--,if rice is used instead of oatmeal1 put it in with the vegetables4 ,,stew ,,soup4 ,i4 #ahf4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of beef1 #e onions1 #e turnips1 #c_/d lb4 of rice1 a large bunch of parsley1 a few sweet herbs1 pepper and salt1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut the beef up in small pieces1 add the other ingredients1 and boil gently for #ba_/b hours4 ,oatmeal or potatoes would be a great improvement4 ,time4-#ba_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,,ii4 #ahg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of beef1 mutton1 or pork2 #a_/b pint of split peas1 #d turnips1 #h potatoes1 #b onions1 #b oz4 of oatmeal or #c oz4 of rice1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut the meat in small pieces1 as also the vegetables1 and add them1 with the peas1 to the water4 ,boil gently for #c hours2 thicken with the oatmeal1 boil for another #a_/d hour1 stirring all the time1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,time4--#c-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been boiled1 by adding vegetables1 seasoning1 rice1 c4 ,,turkey ,,soup 7a ,seasonable ,dish at ,christmas74 #ahh4 ,,ingredients4--#b quarts of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje1 the remains of a cold roast turkey1 #b oz4 of rice-flour or arrowroot1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a tablespoonful of ,harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut up the turkey in small pieces1 and put it in the stock2 let it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean4 ,take the bones out1 and work the soup through a sieve2 when cool1 skim well4 ,mix the rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup2 add it with the seasoning and sauce1 or ketchup4 ,give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at ,christmas4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,instead of thickening this soup1 vermicelli or macaroni may be served in it4 ,,the ,,turkey4--,the common turkey is a native of ,north ,america1 and was thence introduced to ,england1 in the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 ,according to ,tusser's ,five ,hundred ,points of ,good ,husbandry1 about the year #aehe it begun to form a dish at our rural ,christmas feasts4 ,beef1 mutton1 and pork1 shred pies of the best1 ,pig1 veal1 goose1 and capon1 and turkey well dress'd1 ,cheese1 apples1 and nuts1 jolly carols to hear1 ,as then in the country is counted good cheer4 ,it is one of the most difficult birds to rear1 of any that we have2 yet1 in its wild state1 is found in great abundance in the forests of ,canada1 where1 it might have been imagined that the severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever becoming plentiful4 ,they are very fond of the seeds of nettles1 and the seeds of the foxglove poison them4 ,,turtle ,,soup 7founded on ,m4 ,ude's ,recipe74 #ahi4 ,,ingredients4--,a turtle1 #f slices of ham1 #b knuckles of veal1 #a large bunch of sweet herbs1 #c bay-leaves1 parsley1 green onions1 #a onion1 #f cloves1 #d blades of mace1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a bottle of ,madeira1 #a lump of sugar4 ,for the ,quenelles ,tortue1 #a lb4 of veal1 #a lb4 of bread crumbs1 milk1 #g eggs1 cayenne1 salt1 spices1 chopped parsley1 the juice of #b lemons4 ,mode4--,to make this soup with less difficulty1 cut off the head of the turtle the preceding day4 ,in the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back1 whilst you cut this off all round4 ,turn it upright on its end1 that all the water1 c4 may run out1 when the flesh should be cut off along the spine1 with the knife sloping towards the bones1 for fear of touching the gall1 which sometimes might escape the eye4 ,when all the flesh about the members is obtained1 wash these clean1 and let them drain4 ,have ready1 on the fire1 a large vessel full of boiling water1 into which put the shells2 and when you perceive that they come easily off1 take them out of the water1 and prick them all1 with those of the back1 belly1 fins1 head1 c4 ,boil the back and belly till the bones can be taken off1 without1 however1 allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done1 as they will be boiled again in the soup4 ,when these latter come off easily1 lay them on earthen dishes singly1 for fear they should stick together1 and put them to cool4 ,keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts1 and let the bones stew thoroughly in it1 as this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces4 ,all the flesh of the interior parts1 the four legs and head1 must be drawn down in the following manner3--,lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan1 over them the knuckles of veal1 according to the size of the turtle2 then the inside flesh of the turtle1 and over the whole the members4 ,now moisten with the water in which you are boiling the shell1 and draw it down thoroughly4 ,it may now be ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat4 ,if no blood appears1 it is time to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones1 c4 have been boiling4 ,put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a turtle1--sweet basil1 sweet marjoram1 lemon thyme1 winter savory1 #b or #c bay-leaves1 common thyme1 a handful of parsley and green onions1 and a large onion stuck with #f cloves4 ,let the whole be thoroughly done4 ,with respect to the members1 probe them1 to see whether they are done1 and if so1 drain and send them to the larder1 as they are to make their appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed4 ,when the flesh is also completely done1 strain it through a silk sieve1 and make a very thin white roux2 for turtle soup must not be much thickened4 ,when the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire1 and has a good colour1 moisten it with the liquor1 keeping it over the fire till it boils4 ,ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin2 then draw the stewpan on the side of the stove1 to skim off the white scum1 and all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce4 ,by this time all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold2 when they must be cut to about the size of one or two inches square1 and thrown into the soup1 which must now be left to simmer gently4 ,when done1 skim off all the fat and froth4 ,take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock1--sweet basil1 sweet marjoram1 lemon thyme1 winter savory1 #b or #c bay-leaves1 common thyme1 a handful of parsley and green onions1 and a large onion cut in four pieces1 with a few blades of mace4 ,put these in a stewpan1 with about #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 and let it simmer on a slow fire till quite melted1 when pour in #a bottle of good ,madeira1 adding a small bit of sugar1 and let it boil gently for #a hour4 ,when done1 rub it through a tammy1 and add it to the soup4 ,let this boil1 till no white scum rises2 then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the sauce1 and put them in a clean stewpan3 when you have all out1 pour the soup over the bits of turtle1 through a tammy1 and proceed as follows3-- ,,quenelles ,,tortue4--,make some quenelles tortue1 which being substitutes for eggs1 do not require to be very delicate4 ,take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal1 about #a lb41 scrape off all the meat1 without leaving any sinews or fat1 and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of bread4 ,when the bread is well soaked1 squeeze it1 and put it into a mortar1 with the veal1 a small quantity of calf's udder1 a little butter1 the yolks of #d eggs1 boiled hard1 a little cayenne pepper1 salt1 and spices1 and pound the whole very fine2 then thicken the mixture with #b whole eggs1 and the yolk of another4 ,next try this farce or stuffing in boiling-hot water1 to ascertain its consistency3 if it is too thin1 add the yolk of an egg4 ,when the farce is perfected1 take half of it1 and put into it some chopped parsley4 ,let the whole cool1 in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg2 poach it in salt and boiling water1 and when very hard1 drain on a sieve1 and put it into the turtle4 ,before you send up1 squeeze the juice of #b or #c lemons1 with a little cayenne pepper1 and pour that into the soup4 ,,the ,,fins may be served as a plat d'entre with a little turtle sauce2 if not1 on the following day you may warm the turtle au bain marie1 and serve the members entire1 with a matelote sauce1 garnished with mushrooms1 cocks' combs1 quenelles1 c4 ,when either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper has been introduced1 no boiling must take place4 ,note4--,it is necessary to observe1 that the turtle prepared a day before it is used1 is generally preferable1 the flavour being more uniform4 ,be particular1 when you dress a very large turtle1 to preserve the green fat 7be cautious not to study a very brown colour1--the natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true connoisseur7 in a separate stewpan1 and likewise when the turtle is entirely done1 to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time4 ,you cannot put the whole in a large vessel1 for many reasons3 first1 it will be long in cooling2 secondly1 when you take some out1 it will break all the rest into rags4 ,if you warm in a bain marie1 the turtle will always retain the same taste2 but if you boil it often1 it becomes strong1 and loses the delicacy of its flavour4 ,,the ,,cost ,,of ,,turtle ,,soup4--,this is the most expensive soup brought to table4 ,it is sold by the quart1--one guinea being the standard price for that quantity4 ,the price of live turtle ranges from #h;d4 to #bs4 per lb41 according to supply and demand4 ,when live turtle is dear1 many cooks use the tinned turtle1 which is killed when caught1 and preserved by being put in hermetically-sealed canisters1 and so sent over to ,england4 ,the cost of a tin1 containing #b quarts1 or #d lbs41 is about #b1 and for a small one1 containing the green fat1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,from these about #f quarts of good soup may be made4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,turtle4 ,,the ,,green ,,turtle4--,this reptile is found in large numbers on the coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics1 in both the old and new worlds4 ,their length is often five feet and upwards1 and they range in weight from #ej to #ejj or #fjj lbs4 ,as turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they frequent1 they are not of a quarrelsome disposition1 as the submarine meadows in which they pasture1 yield plenty for them all4 ,like other species of amphibia1 too1 they have the power of living many months without food2 so that they live harmlessly and peaceably together1 notwithstanding that they seem to have no common bond of association1 but merely assemble in the same places as if entirely by accident4 ,england is mostly supplied with them from the ,west ,indies1 whence they are brought alive and in tolerable health4 ,the green turtle is highly prized on account of the delicious quality of its flesh1 the fat of the upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest and most delicate parts4 ,the soup1 however1 is apt to disagree with weak stomachs4 ,as an article of luxury1 the turtle has only come into fashion within the last #ajj years1 and some hundreds of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord mayor's dinner in ,guildhall4 ,a ,,good ,,family ,,soup4 #aij4 ,,ingredients4--,remains of a cold tongue1 #b lbs4 of shin of beef1 any cold pieces of meat or beef-bones1 #b turnips1 #b carrots1 #b onions1 #a parsnip1 #a head of celery1 #d quarts of water1 #a_/b teacupful of rice2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients in a stewpan1 and simmer gently for #d hours1 or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat4 ,strain off the soup1 and let it stand to get cold4 ,the kernels and soft parts of the tongue must be saved4 ,when the soup is wanted for use1 skim off all the fat1 put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue1 slice in a small quantity of fresh carrot1 turnip1 and onion2 stew till the vegetables are tender1 and serve with toasted bread4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1#c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,,hodge-,,podge4 #aia4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of shin of beef1 #c quarts of water1 #a pint of table-beer1 #b onions1 #b carrots1 #b turnips1 #a head of celery2 pepper and salt to taste2 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,put the meat1 beer1 and water in a stewpan2 simmer for a few minutes1 and skim carefully4 ,add the vegetables and seasoning2 stew gently till the meat is tender4 ,thicken with the butter and flour1 and serve with turnips and carrots1 or spinach and celery4 ,time4--#c hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #ab persons4 ,,table ,,beer4--,this is nothing more than a weak ale1 and is not made so much with a view to strength1 as to transparency of colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste4 ,it is1 or ought to be1 manufactured by the ,london professional brewers1 from the best pale malt1 or amber and malt4 ,six barrels are usually drawn from one quarter of malt1 with which are mixed #d or #e lbs4 of hops4 ,as a beverage1 it is agreeable when fresh2 but it is not adapted to keep long4 ,,fish ,,soups4 ,,fish ,,stock4 #aib4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of beef or veal 7these can be omitted71 any kind of white fish trimmings1 of fish which are to be dressed for table1 #b onions1 the rind of #a_/b a lemon1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 #b carrots1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the fish1 and put it1 with the other ingredients1 into the water4 ,simmer for #b hours2 skim the liquor carefully1 and strain it4 ,when a richer stock is wanted1 fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 with meat1 #aj;d4 per quart2 without1 #c;d4 ,note4--,do not make fish stock long before it is wanted1 as it soon turns sour4 ,,crayfish ,,soup4 #aic4 ,,ingredients4--#ej crayfish1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #f anchovies1 the crumb of #a ,french roll1 a little lobster-spawn1 seasoning to taste1 #b quarts of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje1 or fish stock1 ,no4 #aib4 ,mode4--,shell the crayfish1 and put the fish between two plates until they are wanted2 pound the shells in a mortar1 with the butter and anchovies2 when well beaten1 add a pint of stock1 and simmer for #c_/d of an hour4 ,strain it through a hair sieve1 put the remainder of the stock to it1 with the crumb of the rolls2 give it one boil1 and rub it through a tammy1 with the lobster-spawn4 ,put in the fish1 but do not let the soup boil1 after it has been rubbed through the tammy4 ,if necessary1 add seasoning4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #c;d4 or #as4 #i;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,january to ,july4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,illustration3 ,,crayfish4 ,,the ,,crayfish4--,this is one of those fishes that were highly esteemed by the ancients4 ,the ,greeks preferred it when brought from ,alexandria1 and the ,romans ate it boiled with cumin1 and seasoned with pepper and other condiments4 ,a recipe tells us1 that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with fresh grass1 such as the nettle1 or in a bucket with about three-eighths of an inch of water4 ,more water would kill them1 because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the water in which they are kept1 to be continually renewed4 ,,eel ,,soup4 #aid4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of eels1 #a onion1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c blades of mace1 #a bunch of sweet herbs1 #a_/d oz4 of peppercorns1 salt to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a_/d pint of cream1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,wash the eels1 cut them into thin slices1 and put them in the stewpan with the butter2 let them simmer for a few minutes1 then pour the water to them1 and add the onion1 cut in thin slices1 the herbs1 mace1 and seasoning4 ,simmer till the eels are tender1 but do not break the fish4 ,take them out carefully1 mix the flour smoothly to a batter with the cream1 bring it to a boil1 pour over the eels1 and serve4 ,time4--#a hour1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream1 and adding a little ketchup or ,harvey's sauce4 ,,lobster ,,soup4 #aie4 ,,ingredients4--#c large lobsters1 or #f small ones2 the crumb of a ,french roll1 #b anchovies1 #a onion1 #a small bunch of sweet herbs1 #a strip of lemon-peel1 #b oz4 of butter1 a little nutmeg1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #a pint of cream1 #a pint of milk2 forcemeat balls1 mace1 salt and pepper to taste1 bread crumbs1 #a egg1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the lobsters1 and beat the fins1 chine1 and small claws in a mortar1 previously taking away the brown fin and the bag in the head4 ,put it in a stewpan1 with the crumb of the roll1 anchovies1 onions1 herbs1 lemon-peel1 and the water2 simmer gently till all the goodness is extracted1 and strain it off4 ,pound the spawn in a mortar1 with the butter1 nutmeg1 and flour1 and mix with it the cream and milk4 ,give one boil up1 at the same time adding the tails cut in pieces4 ,make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster1 seasoned with mace1 pepper1 and salt1 adding a little flour1 and a few bread crumbs2 moisten them with the egg1 heat them in the soup1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #cs #f;d per quart4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,october4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,oyster ,,soup4 ,i4 #aif4 ,,ingredients4--#f dozen of oysters1 #b quarts of white stock1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a-a_/b oz4 of flour2 salt1 cayenne1 and mace to taste4 ,mode4--,scald the oysters in their own liquor2 take them out1 beard them1 and put them in a tureen4 ,take a pint of the stock1 put in the beards and the liquor1 which must be carefully strained1 and simmer for #a_/b an hour4 ,take it off the fire1 strain it again1 and add the remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace4 ,bring it to a boil1 add the thickening of butter and flour1 simmer for #e minutes1 stir in the boiling cream1 pour it over the oysters1 and serve4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #h;d4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream1 and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour4 ,,ii4 #aig4 ,,ingredients4--#b quarts of good mutton broth1 #f dozen oysters1 #b oz4 butter1 #a oz4 of flour4 ,mode4--,beard the oysters1 and scald them in their own liquor2 then add it1 well strained1 to the broth2 thicken with the butter and flour1 and simmer for #a_/d of an hour4 ,put in the oysters1 stir well1 but do not let it boil1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per quart4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,,season ,,of ,,oysters4--,from ,april and ,may to the end of ,july1 oysters are said to be sick2 but by the end of ,august they become healthy1 having recovered from the effects of spawning4 ,when they are not in season1 the males have a black1 and the females a milky substance in the gill4 ,from some lines of ,oppian1 it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the oyster is generally found adhering to rocks4 ,the starfish is one of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves4 ,the poet says3-- ,the prickly star creeps on with full deceit ,to force the oyster from his close retreat4 ,when gaping lids their widen'd void display1 ,the watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray1 ,of all its treasures spoils the rifled case1 ,and empty shells the sandy hillock grace4 ,,prawn ,,soup4 #aih4 ,,ingredients4--#b quarts of fish stock or water1 #b pints of prawns1 the crumbs of a ,french roll1 anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste1 #a blade of mace1 #a pint of vinegar1 a little lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,pick out the tails of the prawns1 put the bodies in a stewpan with #a blade of mace1 #a_/b pint of vinegar1 and the same quantity of water2 stew them for #a_/d hour1 and strain off the liquor4 ,put the fish stock or water into a stewpan2 add the strained liquor1 pound the prawns with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup1 rub them through a tammy1 and mix them by degrees with the soup2 add ketchup or anchovy sauce to taste1 with a little lemon-juice4 ,when it is well cooked1 put in a few picked prawns2 let them get thoroughly hot1 and serve4 ,if not thick enough1 put in a little butter and flour4 ,time4--hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 per quart1 if made with water4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,note4--,this can be thickened with tomatoes1 and vermicelli served in it1 which makes it a very tasteful soup4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,prawn4 ,,the ,,prawn4--,this little fish bears a striking resemblance to the shrimp1 but is neither so common nor so small4 ,it is to be found on most of the sandy shores of ,europe4 ,the ,isle of ,wight is famous for shrimps1 where they are potted2 but both the prawns and the shrimps vended in ,london1 are too much salted for the excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved4 ,they are extremely lively little animals1 as seen in their native retreats4 ,illustration ,,fish4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,fishes4 #aii4 ,,in ,,natural ,,history1 ,,fishes form the fourth class in the system of ,linnaeus1 and are described as having long under-jaws1 eggs without white1 organs of sense1 fins for supporters1 bodies covered with concave scales1 gills to supply the place of lungs for respiration1 and water for the natural element of their existence4 ,had mankind no other knowledge of animals than of such as inhabit the land and breathe their own atmosphere1 they would listen with incredulous wonder1 if told that there were other kinds of beings which existed only in the waters1 and which would die almost as soon as they were taken from them4 ,however strongly these facts might be attested1 they would hardly believe them1 without the operation of their own senses1 as they would recollect the effect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water1 and the impossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened period of time4 ,experience1 however1 has taught them1 that the great deep is crowded with inhabitants of various sizes1 and of vastly different constructions1 with modes of life entirely distinct from those which belong to the animals of the land1 and with peculiarities of design1 equally wonderful with those of any other works which have come from the hand of the ,creator4 ,the history of these races1 however1 must remain for ever1 more or less1 in a state of darkness1 since the depths in which they live1 are beyond the power of human exploration1 and since the illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirely out of the reach of human accessibility4 #bjj4 ,,in ,,studying ,,the ,,conformation ,,of ,,fishes1 we naturally conclude that they are1 in every respect1 well adapted to the element in which they have their existence4 ,their shape has a striking resemblance to the lower part of a ship2 and there is no doubt that the form of the fish originally suggested the form of the ship4 ,the body is in general slender1 gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities1 and flattened on each of its sides4 ,this is precisely the form of the lower part of the hull of a ship2 and it enables both the animal and the vessel1 with comparative ease1 to penetrate and divide the resisting medium for which they have been adapted4 ,the velocity of a ship1 however1 in sailing before the wind1 is by no means to be compared to that of a fish4 ,it is well known that the largest fishes will1 with the greatest ease1 overtake a ship in full sail1 play round it without effort1 and shoot ahead of it at pleasure4 ,this arises from their great flexibility1 which1 to compete with mocks the labours of art1 and enables them to migrate thousands of miles in a season1 without the slightest indications of languor or fatigue4 #bja4 ,,the ,,principal ,,instruments ,,employed ,,by ,,fishes to accelerate their motion1 are their air-bladder1 fins1 and tail4 ,by means of the air-bladder they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of their bodies4 ,when they wish to sink1 they compress the muscles of the abdomen1 and eject the air contained in it2 by which1 their weight1 compared with that of the water1 is increased1 and they consequently descend4 ,on the other hand1 when they wish to rise1 they relax the compression of the abdominal muscles1 when the air-bladder fills and distends1 and the body immediately ascends to the surface4 ,how simply1 yet how wonderfully1 has the ,supreme ,being adapted certain means to the attainment of certain ends6 ,those fishes which are destitute of the air-bladder are heavy in the water1 and have no great alacrity in rising4 ,the larger proportion of them remain at the bottom1 unless they are so formed as to be able to strike their native element downwards with sufficient force to enable them to ascend4 ,when the air-bladder of a fish is burst1 its power of ascending to the surface has for ever passed away4 ,from a knowledge of this fact1 the fishermen of cod are enabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in their well-boats4 ,the means they adopt to accomplish this1 is to perforate the sound1 or air-bladder1 with a needle1 which disengages the air1 when the fishes immediately descend to the bottom of the well1 into which they are thrown4 ,without this operation1 it would be impossible to keep the cod under water whilst they had life4 ,in swimming1 the fins enable fishes to preserve their upright position1 especially those of the belly1 which act like two feet4 ,without those1 they would swim with their bellies upward1 as it is in their backs that the centre of gravity lies4 ,in ascending and descending1 these are likewise of great assistance1 as they contract and expand accordingly4 ,the tail is an instrument of great muscular force1 and largely assists the fish in all its motions4 ,in some instances it acts like the rudder of a ship1 and enables it to turn sideways2 and when moved from side to side with a quick vibratory motion1 fishes are made1 in the same manner as the screw propeller makes a steamship1 to dart forward with a celerity proportioned to the muscular force with which it is employed4 #bjb4 ,,the ,,bodies ,,of ,,fishes are mostly covered with a kind of horny scales2 but some are almost entirely without them1 or have them so minute as to be almost invisible2 as is the case with the eel4 ,the object of these is to preserve them from injury by the pressure of the water1 or the sudden contact with pebbles1 rocks1 or sea-weeds4 ,others1 again1 are enveloped in a fatty1 oleaginous substance1 also intended as a defence against the friction of the water2 and those in which the scales are small1 are supplied with a larger quantity of slimy matter4 #bjc4 ,,the ,,respiration ,,of ,,fishes is effected by means of those comb-like organs which are placed on each side of the neck1 and which are called gills4 ,it is curious to watch the process of breathing as it is performed by the finny tribes4 ,it seems to be so continuous1 that it might almost pass for an illustration of the vexed problem which conceals the secret of perpetual motion4 ,in performing it1 they fill their mouths with water1 which they drive backwards with a force so great as to open the large flap1 to allow it to escape behind4 ,in this operation all1 or a great portion1 of the air contained in the water1 is left among the feather-like processes of the gills1 and is carried into the body1 there to perform its part in the animal economy4 ,in proof of this1 it has been ascertained that1 if the water in which fishes are put1 is1 by any means1 denuded of its air1 they immediately seek the surface1 and begin to gasp for it4 ,hence1 distilled water is to them what a vacuum made by an air-pump1 is to most other animals4 ,for this reason1 when a fishpond1 or other aqueous receptacle in which fishes are kept1 is entirely frozen over1 it is necessary to make holes in the ice1 not so especially for the purpose of feeding them1 as for that of giving them air to breathe4 #bjd4 ,,the ,,positions ,,of ,,the ,,teeth ,,of ,,fishes are well calculated to excite our amazement2 for1 in some cases1 these are situated in the jaws1 sometimes on the tongue or palate1 and sometimes even in the throat4 ,they are in general sharp-pointed and immovable2 but in the carp they are obtuse1 and in the pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeper hold than such as the mere skin can afford4 ,in the herring1 the tongue is set with teeth1 to enable it the better1 it is supposed1 to retain its food4 #bje4 ,,although ,,naturalists ,,have ,,divided ,,fishes into two great tribes1 the osseous and the cartilaginous1 yet the distinction is not very precise2 for the first have a great deal of cartilage1 and the second1 at any rate1 a portion of calcareous matter in their bones4 ,it may1 therefore1 be said that the bones of fishes form a kind of intermediate substance between true bones and cartilages4 ,the backbone extends through the whole length of the body1 and consists of vertebrae1 strong and thick towards the head1 but weaker and more slender as it approaches the tail4 ,each species has a determinate number of vertebrae1 which are increased in size in proportion with the body4 ,the ribs are attached to the processes of the vertebrae1 and inclose the breast and abdomen4 ,some kinds1 as the rays1 have no ribs2 whilst others1 as the sturgeon and eel1 have very short ones4 ,between the pointed processes of the vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal 7back7 and the anal 7below the tail7 fins1 which are connected with the processes by a ligament4 ,at the breast are the sternum or breastbone1 clavicles or collar-bones1 and the scapulae or shoulder-blades1 on which the pectoral or breast fins are placed4 ,the bones which support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis4 ,besides these principal bones1 there are often other smaller ones1 placed between the muscles to assist their motion4 #bjf4 ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,organs ,,of ,,sense ,,in ,,fishes are supposed to be possessed by them in a high degree1 and others much more imperfectly4 ,of the latter kind are the senses of touch and taste1 which are believed to be very slightly developed4 ,on the other hand1 those of hearing1 seeing1 and smelling1 are ascertained to be acute1 but the first in a lesser degree than both the second and third4 ,their possession of an auditory organ was long doubted1 and even denied by some physiologists2 but it has been found placed on the sides of the skull1 or in the cavity which contains the brain4 ,it occupies a position entirely distinct and detached from the skull1 and1 in this respect1 differs in the local disposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds4 ,in some fishes1 as in those of the ray kind1 the organ is wholly encompassed by those parts which contain the cavity of the skull2 whilst in the cod and salmon kind it is in the part within the skull4 ,its structure is1 in every way1 much more simple than that of the same sense in those animals which live entirely in the air2 but there is no doubt that they have the adaptation suitable to their condition4 ,in some genera1 as in the rays1 the external orifice or ear is very small1 and is placed in the upper surface of the head2 whilst in others there is no visible external orifice whatever4 ,however perfect the sight of fishes may be1 experience has shown that this sense is of much less use to them than that of smelling1 in searching for their food4 ,the optic nerves in fishes have this peculiarity1--that they are not confounded with one another in their middle progress between their origin and their orbit4 ,the one passes over the other without any communication2 so that the nerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes distinctly to the right eye1 and that which comes from the right goes distinctly to the left4 ,in the greater part of them1 the eye is covered with the same transparent skin that covers the rest of the head4 ,the object of this arrangement1 perhaps1 is to defend it from the action of the water1 as there are no eyelids4 ,the globe in front is somewhat depressed1 and is furnished behind with a muscle1 which serves to lengthen or flatten it1 according to the necessities of the animal4 ,the crystalline humour1 which in quadrupeds is flattened1 is1 in fishes1 nearly globular4 ,the organ of smelling in fishes is large1 and is endued1 at its entry1 with a dilating and contracting power1 which is employed as the wants of the animal may require4 ,it is mostly by the acuteness of their smell that fishes are enabled to discover their food2 for their tongue is not designed for nice sensation1 being of too firm a cartilaginous substance for this purpose4 #bjg4 ,,with ,,respect ,,to ,,the ,,food ,,of ,,fishes1 this is almost universally found in their own element4 ,they are mostly carnivorous1 though they seize upon almost anything that comes in their way3 they even devour their own offspring1 and manifest a particular predilection for all living creatures4 ,those1 to which ,nature has meted out mouths of the greatest capacity1 would seem to pursue everything with life1 and frequently engage in fierce conflicts with their prey4 ,the animal with the largest mouth is usually the victor2 and he has no sooner conquered his foe than he devours him4 ,innumerable shoals of one species pursue those of another1 with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to the equator1 through all the varying temperatures and depths of their boundless domain4 ,in these pursuits a scene of universal violence is the result2 and many species must have become extinct1 had not ,nature accurately proportioned the means of escape1 the production1 and the numbers1 to the extent and variety of the danger to which they are exposed4 ,hence the smaller species are not only more numerous1 but more productive than the larger2 whilst their instinct leads them in search of food and safety near the shores1 where1 from the shallowness of the waters1 many of their foes are unable to follow them4 #bjh4 ,,the ,,fecundity ,,of ,,fishes has been the wonder of every natural philosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject4 ,they are in general oviparous1 or egg-producing2 but there are a few1 such as the eel and the blenny1 which are viviparous1 or produce their young alive4 ,the males have the milt and the females the roe2 but some individuals1 as the sturgeon and the cod tribes1 are said to contain both4 ,the greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel2 but some of those which dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggs to sea-weeds4 ,in every instance1 however1 their fruitfulness far surpasses that of any other race of animals4 ,according to ,lewenhoeck1 the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs1 contained in a single roe4 ,the flounder produces one million2 the mackerel above five hundred thousand2 a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand2 a carp fourteen inches in length1 according to ,petit1 contained two hundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four2 a perch deposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty2 and a female sturgeon seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand two hundred4 ,the viviparous species are by no means so prolific2 yet the blenny brings forth two or three hundred at a time1 which commence sporting together round their parent the moment they have come into existence4 #bji4 ,,in ,,reference ,,to ,,the ,,longevity ,,of ,,fishes1 it is affirmed to surpass that of all other created beings2 and it is supposed they are1 to a great extent1 exempted from the diseases to which the flesh of other animals is heir4 ,in place of suffering from the rigidity of age1 which is the cause of the natural decay of those that live and move and have their being on the land1 their bodies continue to grow with each succeeding supply of food1 and the conduits of life to perform their functions unimpaired4 ,the age of fishes has not been properly ascertained1 although it is believed that the most minute of the species has a longer lease of life than man4 ,the mode in which they die has been noted by the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,white1 the eminent naturalist of ,selbourne4 ,as soon as the fish sickens1 the head sinks lower and lower1 till the animal1 as it were1 stands upon it4 ,after this1 as it becomes weaker1 it loses its poise1 till the tail turns over1 when it comes to the surface1 and floats with its belly upwards4 ,the reason for its floating in this manner is on account of the body being no longer balanced by the fins of the belly1 and the broad muscular back preponderating1 by its own gravity1 over the belly1 from this latter being a cavity1 and consequently lighter4 #baj4 ,,fishes ,,are ,,either ,,solitary ,,or ,,gregarious1 and some of them migrate to great distances1 and into certain rivers1 to deposit their spawn4 ,of sea-fishes1 the cod1 herring1 mackerel1 and many others1 assemble in immense shoals1 and migrate through different tracts of the ocean2 but1 whether considered in their solitary or gregarious capacity1 they are alike wonderful to all who look through ,nature up to ,nature's ,god1 and consider1 with due humility1 yet exalted admiration1 the sublime variety1 beauty1 power1 and grandeur of ,his productions1 as manifested in the ,creation4 ,,fish ,,as ,,an ,,article ,,of ,,human ,,food4 #baa4 ,,as ,,the ,,nutritive ,,properties ,,of ,,fish are deemed inferior to those of what is called butchers' meat1 it would appear1 from all we can learn1 that1 in all ages1 it has held only a secondary place in the estimation of those who have considered the science of gastronomy as a large element in the happiness of mankind4 ,among the ,jews of old it was very little used1 although it seems not to have been entirely interdicted1 as ,moses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor fins4 ,the ,egyptians1 however1 made fish an article of diet1 notwithstanding that it was rejected by their priests4 ,egypt1 however1 is not a country favourable to the production of fish1 although we read of the people1 when hungry1 eating it raw2 of epicures among them having dried it in the sun2 and of its being salted and preserved1 to serve as a repast on days of great solemnity4 ,the modern ,egyptians are1 in general1 extremely temperate in regard to food4 ,even the richest among them take little pride1 and1 perhaps1 experience as little delight1 in the luxuries of the table4 ,their dishes mostly consist of pilaus1 soups1 and stews1 prepared principally of onions1 cucumbers1 and other cold vegetables1 mixed with a little meat cut into small pieces4 ,on special occasions1 however1 a whole sheep is placed on the festive board2 but during several of the hottest months of the year1 the richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable diet4 ,the poor are contented with a little oil or sour milk1 in which they may dip their bread4 #bab4 ,,passing ,,from ,,africa ,,to ,,europe1 we come amongst a people who have1 almost from time immemorial1 occupied a high place in the estimation of every civilized country2 yet the ,greeks1 in their earlier ages1 made very little use of fish as an article of diet4 ,in the eyes of the heroes of ,homer it had little favour2 for ,menelaus complained that hunger pressed their digestive organs1 and they had been obliged to live upon fish4 ,subsequently1 however1 fish became one of the principal articles of diet amongst the ,hellenes2 and both ,aristophanes and ,athenaeus allude to it1 and even satirize their countrymen for their excessive partiality to the turbot and mullet4 ,so infatuated were many of the ,greek gastronomes with the love of fish1 that some of them would have preferred death from indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious dainties with which a few of the species supplied them4 ,philoxenes of ,cythera was one of these4 ,on being informed by his physician that he was going to die of indigestion1 on account of the quantity he was consuming of a delicious fish1 ,be it so1 he calmly observed2 but before ,i die1 let me finish the remainder4 #bac4 ,,the ,,geographical ,,situation ,,of ,,greece was highly favourable for the development of a taste for the piscatory tribes2 and the skill of the ,greek cooks was so great1 that they could impart every variety of relish to the dish they were called upon to prepare4 ,athenaeus has transmitted to posterity some very important precepts upon their ingenuity in seasoning with salt1 oil1 and aromatics4 ,at the present day the food of the ,greeks1 through the combined influence of poverty and the long fasts which their religion imposes upon them1 is1 to a large extent1 composed of fish1 accompanied with vegetables and fruit4 ,caviare1 prepared from the roes of sturgeons1 is the national ragout1 which1 like all other fish dishes1 they season with aromatic herbs4 ,snails dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish4 #bad4 ,,as ,,the ,,romans1 in a great measure1 took their taste in the fine arts from the ,greeks1 so did they1 in some measure1 their piscine appetites4 ,the eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fish dishes of the ,roman epicures2 whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one of the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table4 ,with all the elegance1 taste1 and refinement of ,roman luxury1 it was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great barbarity4 ,in proof of this1 the mention of the red mullet suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the1 to us1 horrible entertainment of the fashionable in ,roman circles4 ,it may be premised1 that as ,england has1 ,rome1 in her palmy days1 had1 her fops1 who had1 no doubt1 through the medium of their cooks1 discovered that when the scales of the red mullet were removed1 the flesh presented a fine pink-colour4 ,having discovered this1 it was further observed that at the death of the animal1 this colour passed through a succession of beautiful shades1 and1 in order that these might be witnessed and enjoyed in their fullest perfection1 the poor mullet was served alive in a glass vessel4 #bae4 ,,the ,,love ,,of ,,fish among the ancient ,romans rose to a real mania4 ,apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine compounded of the liver of red mullets2 and ,lucullus had a canal cut through a mountain1 in the neighbourhood of ,naples1 that fish might be the more easily transported to the gardens of his villa4 ,hortensius1 the orator1 wept over the death of a turbot which he had fed with his own hands2 and the daughter of ,druses adorned one that she had1 with rings of gold4 ,these were1 surely1 instances of misplaced affection2 but there is no accounting for tastes4 ,it was but the other day that we read in the ,times of a wealthy living ,english hermit1 who delights in the companionship of rats6 ,the modern ,romans are merged in the general name of ,italians1 who1 with the exception of macaroni1 have no specially characteristic article of food4 #baf4 ,,from ,,rome ,,to ,,gaul is1 considering the means of modern locomotion1 no great way2 but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give us little information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of its inhabitants4 ,louis ,,xii4 engaged six fishmongers to furnish his board with fresh-water animals1 and ,francis ,i4 had twenty-two1 whilst ,henry the ,great extended his requirements a little further1 and had twenty-four4 ,in the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 the cooks had attained to such a degree of perfection in their art1 that they could convert the form and flesh of the trout1 pike1 or carp1 into the very shape and flavour of the most delicious game4 ,the ,french long enjoyed a ,european reputation for their skill and refinement in the preparing of food4 ,in place of plain joints1 ,french cookery delights in the marvels of what are called made dishes1 ragouts1 stews1 and fricassees1 in which no trace of the original materials of which they are compounded is to be found4 #bag4 ,,from ,,gaul ,,we ,,cross ,,to ,,britain1 where it has been asserted1 by1 at least1 one authority1 that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish4 ,however this may be1 we know that the ,british shores1 particularly those of the ,north ,sea1 have always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish1 which we may reasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants1 or likely to be lost upon them for the lack of knowledge as to how they tasted4 ,by the time of ,edward ,,ii41 fish had1 in ,england1 become a dainty1 especially the sturgeon1 which was permitted to appear on no table but that of the king4 ,in the fourteenth century1 a decree of ,king ,john informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises2 whilst in the days of the ,troubadours1 whales were fished for and caught in the ,mediterranean ,sea1 for the purpose of being used as human food4 ,whatever checks the ancient ,british may have had upon their piscatory appetites1 there are happily none of any great consequence upon the modern1 who delight in wholesome food of every kind4 ,their taste is1 perhaps1 too much inclined to that which is accounted solid and substantial2 but they really eat more moderately1 even of animal food1 than either the ,french or the ,germans4 ,roast beef1 or other viands cooked in the plainest manner1 are1 with them1 a sufficient luxury2 yet they delight in living well1 whilst it is easy to prove how largely their affections are developed by even the prospect of a substantial cheer4 ,in proof of this we will just observe1 that if a great dinner is to be celebrated1 it is not uncommon for the appointed stewards and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner among themselves1 in order to arrange the great one1 and after that1 to have another dinner to discharge the bill which the great one cost4 ,this enjoyable disposition we take to form a very large item in the aggregate happiness of the nation4 #bah4 ,,the ,,general ,,use ,,of ,,fish1 as an article of human food among civilized nations1 we have thus sufficiently shown1 and will conclude this portion of our subject with the following hints1 which ought to be remembered by all those who are fond of occasionally varying their dietary with a piscine dish3-- ,i4 ,fish shortly before they spawn are1 in general1 best in condition4 ,when the spawning is just over1 they are out of season1 and unfit for human food4 ,,ii4 ,when fish is out of season1 it has a transparent1 bluish tinge1 however much it may be boiled2 when it is in season1 its muscles are firm1 and boil white and curdy4 ,,iii4 ,as food for invalids1 white fish1 such as the ling1 cod1 haddock1 coal-fish1 and whiting1 are the best2 flat fish1 as soles1 skate1 turbot1 and flounders1 are also good4 ,,iv4 ,salmon1 mackerel1 herrings1 and trout soon spoil or decompose after they are killed2 therefore1 to be in perfection1 they should be prepared for the table on the day they are caught4 ,with flat fish1 this is not of such consequence1 as they will keep longer4 ,the turbot1 for example1 is improved by being kept a day or two4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,dressing ,,fish4 #bai4 ,,in ,,dressing ,,fish1 of any kind1 the first point to be attended to1 is to see that it be perfectly clean4 ,it is a common error to wash it too much2 as by doing so the flavour is diminished4 ,if the fish is to be boiled1 a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water1 to give it firmness1 after it is cleaned4 ,cod-fish1 whiting1 and haddock1 are far better if a little salted1 and kept a day2 and if the weather be not very hot1 they will be good for two days4 #bbj4 ,,when ,,fish ,,is ,,cheap ,,and ,,plentiful1 and a larger quantity is purchased than is immediately wanted1 the overplus of such as will bear it should be potted1 or pickled1 or salted1 and hung up2 or it may be fried1 that it may serve for stewing the next day4 ,fresh-water fish1 having frequently a muddy smell and taste1 should be soaked in strong salt and water1 after it has been well cleaned4 ,if of a sufficient size1 it may be scalded in salt and water1 and afterwards dried and dressed4 #bba4 ,,fish ,,should ,,be ,,put ,,into ,,cold ,,water1 and set on the fire to do very gently1 or the outside will break before the inner part is done4 ,unless the fishes are small1 they should never be put into warm water2 nor should water1 either hot or cold1 be poured on to the fish1 as it is liable to break the skin3 if it should be necessary to add a little water whilst the fish is cooking1 it ought to be poured in gently at the side of the vessel4 ,the fish-plate may be drawn up1 to see if the fish be ready1 which may be known by its easily separating from the bone4 ,it should then be immediately taken out of the water1 or it will become woolly4 ,the fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle1 to keep hot for serving1 and a clean cloth over the fish1 to prevent its losing its colour4 #bbb4 ,,in ,,garnishing ,,fish1 great attention is required1 and plenty of parsley1 horseradish1 and lemon should be used4 ,if fried parsley be used1 it must be washed and picked1 and thrown into fresh water4 ,when the lard or dripping boils1 throw the parsley into it immediately from the water1 and instantly it will be green and crisp1 and must be taken up with a slice4 ,when well done1 and with very good sauce1 fish is more appreciated than almost any other dish4 ,the liver and roe1 in some instances1 should be placed on the dish1 in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving2 but to each recipe will be appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing4 #bbc4 ,,if ,,fish ,,is ,,to ,,be ,,fried ,,or ,,broiled1 it must be dried in a nice soft cloth1 after it is well cleaned and washed4 ,if for frying1 brush it over with egg1 and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread4 ,if done a second time with the egg and bread1 the fish will look so much the better4 ,if required to be very nice1 a sheet of white blotting-paper must be placed to receive it1 that it may be free from all grease4 ,it must also be of a beautiful colour1 and all the crumbs appear distinct4 ,butter gives a bad colour2 lard and clarified dripping are most frequently used2 but oil is the best1 if the expense be no objection4 ,the fish should be put into the lard when boiling1 and there should be a sufficiency of this to cover it4 #bbd4 ,,when ,,fish ,,is ,,broiled1 it must be seasoned1 floured1 and laid on a very clean gridiron1 which1 when hot1 should be rubbed with a bit of suet1 to prevent the fish from sticking4 ,it must be broiled over a very clear fire1 that it may not taste smoky2 and not too near1 that it may not be scorched4 #bbe4 ,,in ,,choosing ,,fish1 it is well to remember that it is possible it may be fresh1 and yet not good4 ,under the head of each particular fish in this work1 are appended rules for its choice and the months when it is in season4 ,nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to have the fish good2 as if this important course in a dinner does not give satisfaction1 it is rarely that the repast goes off well4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,fish4 ,nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of ,fish1 inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will1 in the space of one day1 cause such a difference in its supply1 that the same fish--a turbot for instance--which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings1 will1 to-morrow1 be1 in the ,london markets1 worth1 perhaps1 almost as many pounds4 ,the average costs1 therefore1 which will be found appended to each recipe1 must be understood as about the average price for the different kinds of fish1 when the market is supplied upon an average1 and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality4 ,,general ,,rule ,,in ,,choosing ,,fish4--,a proof of freshness and goodness in most fishes1 is their being covered with scales2 for1 if deficient in this respect1 it is a sign of their being stale1 or having been ill-used4 ,,fried ,,anchovies4 #bbf4 ,,ingredients4--#a tablespoonful of oil1 #a_/b a glass of white wine1 sufficient flour to thicken2 #ab anchovies4 ,mode4--,mix the oil and wine together1 with sufficient flour to make them into a thickish paste2 cleanse the anchovies1 wipe them1 dip them in the paste1 and fry of a nice brown colour4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #i;d4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,anchovy4 ,,the ,,anchovy4--,in his book of ,british ,fishes1 ,mr4 ,yarrell states that the anchovy is a common fish in the ,mediterranean1 from ,greece to ,gibraltar1 and was well known to the ,greeks and ,romans1 by whom the liquor prepared from it1 called garum1 was in great estimation4 ,its extreme range is extended into the ,black ,sea4 ,the fishing for them is carried on during the night1 and lights are used with the nets4 ,the anchovy is common on the coasts of ,portugal1 ,spain1 and ,france4 ,it occurs1 ,i have no doubt1 at the ,channel ,islands1 and has been taken on the ,hampshire coast1 and in the ,bristol ,channel4 ,other fish1 of inferior quality1 but resembling the real ,gorgona anchovy1 are frequently sold for it1 and passed off as genuine4 ,,anchovy ,,butter ,,or ,,paste4 #bbg4 ,,ingredients4--#b dozen anchovies1 #a_/b lb4 of fresh butter4 ,mode4--,wash the anchovies thoroughly2 bone and dry them1 and pound them in a mortar to a paste4 ,mix the butter gradually with them1 and rub the whole through a sieve4 ,put it by in small pots for use1 and carefully exclude the air with a bladder1 as it soon changes the colour of anchovies1 besides spoiling them4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #bs4 ,,potted ,,anchovies4 ,,potted ,,anchovies are made in the same way1 by adding pounded mace1 cayenne1 and nutmeg to taste4 ,,anchovy ,,toast4 #bbh4 ,,ingredients4--,toast #b or #c slices of bread1 or1 if wanted very savoury1 fry them in clarified butter1 and spread on them the paste1 ,no4 #bbg4 ,made mustard1 or a few grains of cayenne1 may be added to the paste before laying it on the toast4 ,,anchovy ,,paste4--,when some delicate zest1 says a work just issued on the adulterations of trade1 is required to make the plain ,english breakfast more palatable1 many people are in the habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies4 ,these fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle1 carefully corked down1 and surrounded by a red-looking liquor1 resembling in appearance diluted clay4 ,the price is moderate1 one shilling only being demanded for the luxury4 ,when these anchovies are what is termed potted1 it implies that the fish have been pounded into the consistency of a paste1 and then placed in flat pots1 somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum4 ,this paste is usually eaten spread upon toast1 and is said to form an excellent bonne bouche1 which enables gentlemen at wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto4 ,unfortunately1 in six cases out of ten1 the only portion of these preserved delicacies1 that contains anything indicative of anchovies1 is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot1 on which the word itself is printed4444 ,all the samples of anchovy paste1 analyzed by different medical men1 have been found to be highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole ,armenian4 ,the anchovy itself1 when imported1 is of a dark dead colour1 and it is to make it a bright handsome-looking sauce that this red earth is used4 ,,barbel4 #bbi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of port wine1 a saltspoonful of salt1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #b sliced onions1 a faggot of sweet herbs1 nutmeg and mace to taste1 the juice of a lemon1 #b anchovies2 #a or #b barbels1 according to size4 ,mode--,boil the barbels in salt and water till done2 pour off some of the water1 and1 to the remainder1 put the ingredients mentioned above4 ,simmer gently for #a_/b hour1 or rather more1 and strain4 ,put in the fish2 heat it gradually2 but do not let it boil1 or it will be broken4 ,time4--,altogether #a hour4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,november4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,barbel4 ,,the ,,barbel1--,this fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels at its mouth2 and1 in ,england1 is esteemed as one of the worst of the fresh-water fish4 ,it was1 however1 formerly1 if not now1 a favourite with the ,jews1 excellent cookers of fish4 ,others would boil with it a piece of bacon1 that it might have a relish4 ,it is to be met with from two to three or four feet long1 and is said to live to a great age4 ,from ,putney upwards1 in the ,thames1 some are found of large size2 but they are valued only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle4 ,,brill4 #bcj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water2 a little vinegar4 ,mode4--,clean the brill1 cut off the fins1 and rub it over with a little lemon-juice1 to preserve its whiteness4 ,set the fish in sufficient cold water to cover it2 throw in salt1 in the above proportions1 and a little vinegar1 and bring it gradually to boil2 simmer very gently till the fish is done1 which will be in about #aj minutes2 but the time for boiling1 of course1 depends entirely on the size of the fish4 ,serve it on a hot napkin1 and garnish with cut lemon1 parsley1 horseradish1 and a little lobster coral sprinkled over the fish4 ,send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table with it4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 a small brill1 #aj minutes2 a large brill1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 from #ds4 to #hs4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,april4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,brill4 ,,the ,,brill4--,this fish resembles the sole1 but is broader1 and when large1 is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than the turbot1 whilst it is much cheaper4 ,it is a fine fish1 and is abundant in the ,london market4 ,,to ,,choose ,,brill4--,the flesh of this fish1 like that of turbot1 should be of a yellowish tint1 and should be chosen on account of its thickness4 ,if the flesh has a bluish tint1 it is not good4 ,,codfish4 #bca4 ,cod may be boiled whole2 but a large head and shoulders are quite sufficient for a dish1 and contain all that is usually helped1 because1 when the thick part is done1 the tail is insipid and overdone4 ,the latter1 cut in slices1 makes a very good dish for frying2 or it may be salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips4 ,cod1 when boiled quite fresh1 is watery2 salting a little1 renders it firmer4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cod4 ,,the ,,cod ,,tribe4--,the ,jugular1 characterized by bony gills1 and ventral fins before the pectoral ones1 commences the second of the ,linnaean orders of fishes1 and is a numerous tribe1 inhabiting only the depths of the ocean1 and seldom visiting the fresh waters4 ,they have a smooth head1 and the gill membrane has seven rays4 ,the body is oblong1 and covered with deciduous scales4 ,the fins are all inclosed in skin1 whilst their rays are unarmed4 ,the ventral fins are slender1 and terminate in a point4 ,their habits are gregarious1 and they feed on smaller fish and other marine animals4 ,,cod',s ,,head ,,and ,,shoulders4 #bcb4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient water to cover the fish2 #e oz4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse the fish thoroughly1 and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside of the fish1 #a or #b hours before dressing it1 as this very much improves the flavour4 ,lay it in the fish-kettle1 with sufficient cold water to cover it4 ,be very particular not to pour the water on the fish1 as it is liable to break it1 and only keep it just simmering4 ,if the water should boil away1 add a little by pouring it in at the side of the kettle1 and not on the fish4 ,add salt in the above proportion1 and bring it gradually to a boil4 ,skim very carefully1 draw it to the side of the fire1 and let it gently simmer till done4 ,take it out and drain it2 serve on a hot napkin1 and garnish with cut lemon1 horseradish1 the roe and liver4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,c47 ,time4--,according to size1 #a_/b an hour1 more or less4 ,average cost1 from #cs4 to #fs4 ,sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,note4--,oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with this4 ,,to ,,choose ,,cod4--,the cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump and round near the tail1 when the hollow behind the head is deep1 and when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed4 ,the glutinous parts about the head lose their delicate flavour1 after the fish has been twenty-four hours out of the water4 ,the great point by which the cod should be judged is the firmness of its flesh2 and1 although the cod is not firm when it is alive1 its quality may be arrived at by pressing the finger into the flesh4 ,if this rises immediately1 the fish is good2 if not1 it is stale4 ,another sign of its goodness is1 if the fish1 when it is cut1 exhibits a bronze appearance1 like the silver side of a round of beef4 ,when this is the case1 the flesh will be firm when cooked4 ,stiffness in a cod1 or in any other fish1 is a sure sign of freshness1 though not always of quality4 ,sometimes1 codfish1 though exhibiting signs of rough usage1 will eat much better than those with red gills1 so strongly recommended by many cookery-books4 ,this appearance is generally caused by the fish having been knocked about at sea1 in the well-boats1 in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market4 ,,salt ,,cod1 ,,commonly ,,called ,,salt-,,fish4 #bcc4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient water to cover the fish4 ,mode4--,wash the fish1 and lay it all night in water1 with a #a_/d pint of vinegar4 ,when thoroughly soaked1 take it out1 see that it is perfectly clean1 and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it4 ,heat it gradually1 but do not let it boil much1 or the fish will be hard4 ,skim well1 and when done1 drain the fish and put it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings4 ,time4--,about #a hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable in the spring4 ,sufficient for each person1 #a_/d lb4 ,note4--,serve with egg sauce and parsnips4 ,this is an especial dish on ,ash ,wednesday4 ,,preserving ,,cod4--,immediately as the cod are caught1 their heads are cut off4 ,they are then opened1 cleaned1 and salted1 when they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel1 in beds of five or six yards square1 head to tail1 with a layer of salt to each layer of fish4 ,when they have lain in this state three or four days1 in order that the water may drain from them1 they are shifted into a different part of the vessel1 and again salted4 ,here they remain till the vessel is loaded1 when they are sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the greater convenience of carriage4 ,,cod ,,sounds4 ,should be well soaked in salt and water1 and thoroughly washed before dressing them4 ,they are considered a great delicacy1 and may either be broiled1 fried1 or boiled3 if they are boiled1 mix a little milk with the water4 ,,cod ,,sounds1 ,,en ,,poule4 #bcd4 ,,ingredients4--,for forcemeat1 #ab chopped oysters1 #c chopped anchovies1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b eggs2 seasoning of salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and mace to taste2 #d cod sounds4 ,mode4--,make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together4 ,wash the sounds1 and boil them in milk and water for #a_/b an hour2 take them out and let them cool4 ,cover each with a layer of forcemeat1 roll them up in a nice form1 and skewer them4 ,rub over with lard1 dredge with flour1 and cook them gently before the fire in a ,dutch oven4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,the ,,sounds ,,in ,,codfish4--,these are the air or swimming bladders1 by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in the water4 ,in the ,newfoundland fishery they are taken out previous to incipient putrefaction1 washed from their slime and salted for exportation4 ,the tongues are also cured and packed up in barrels2 whilst1 from the livers1 considerable quantities of oil are extracted1 this oil having been found possessed of the most nourishing properties1 and particularly beneficial in cases of pulmonary affections4 ,,cod ,,pie4 7,economical47 ,i4 #bce4 ,,ingredients4--,any remains of cold cod1 #ab oysters1 sufficient melted butter to moisten it2 mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish4 ,mode4--,flake the fish from the bone1 and carefully take away all the skin4 ,lay it in a pie-dish1 pour over the melted butter and oysters 7or oyster sauce1 if there is any left71 and cover with mashed potatoes4 ,bake for #a_/b an hour1 and send to table of a nice brown colour4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,ii4 #bcf4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of cod2 pepper and salt to taste2 #a_/b a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a large blade of pounded mace1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of stock ,no4 #ajg1 a paste crust 7see ,pastry74 ,for sauce1 #a tablespoonful of stock1 #a_/d pint of cream or milk1 thickening of flour or butter2 lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste2 #ab oysters4 ,mode4--,lay the cod in salt for #d hours1 then wash it and place it in a dish2 season1 and add the butter and stock2 cover with the crust1 and bake for #a hour1 or rather more4 ,now make the sauce1 by mixing the ingredients named above2 give it one boil1 and pour it into the pie by a hole made at the top of the crust1 which can easily be covered by a small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape--such as a leaf1 or otherwise4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with fresh fish1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,note4--,the remains of cold fish may be used for this pie4 ,,curried ,,cod4 #bcg4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of large cod1 or the remains of any cold fish2 #c oz4 of butter1 #a onion sliced1 a teacupful of white stock1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a small teaspoonful of curry-powder1 #a_/d pint of cream1 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,flake the fish1 and fry it of a nice brown colour with the butter and onions2 put this in a stewpan1 add the stock and thickening1 and simmer for #aj minutes4 ,stir the curry-powder into the cream2 put it1 with the seasoning1 to the other ingredients2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 with fresh fish1 #cs4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,the ,,food ,,of ,,the ,,cod4--,this chiefly consists of the smaller species of the scaly tribes1 shell-fish1 crabs1 and worms4 ,their voracity is very great1 and they will bite at any small body they see moved by the water1 even stones and pebbles1 which are frequently found in their stomachs4 ,they sometimes attain a great size1 but their usual weight is from #ad to #dj lbs4 ,,cod ,a ,,la ,,creme4 #bch4 ,,ingredients4--#a large slice of cod1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a chopped shalot1 a little minced parsley1 #a_/d teacupful of white stock1 #a_/d pint of milk or cream1 flour to thicken1 cayenne and lemon-juice to taste1 #a_/d teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,boil the cod1 and while hot1 break it into flakes2 put the butter1 shalot1 parsley1 and stock into a stewpan1 and let them boil for #e minutes4 ,stir in sufficient flour to thicken1 and pour to it the milk or cream4 ,simmer for #aj minutes1 add the cayenne and sugar1 and1 when liked1 a little lemon-juice4 ,put the fish in the sauce to warm gradually1 but do not let it boil4 ,serve in a dish garnished with crotons4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with cream1 #bs4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,note4--,the remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for this dish4 ,,cod ,a ,,la ,,bechamel4 #bci4 ,,ingredients4--,any remains of cold cod1 #d tablespoonfuls of bchamel 7see ,sauces71 #b oz4 butter2 seasoning to taste of pepper and salt2 fried bread1 a few bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,flake the cod carefully1 leaving out all skin and bone2 put the bchamel in a stewpan with the butter1 and stir it over the fire till the latter is melted2 add seasoning1 put in the fish1 and mix it well with the sauce4 ,make a border of fried bread round the dish1 lay in the fish1 sprinkle over with bread crumbs1 and baste with butter4 ,brown either before the fire or with a salamander1 and garnish with toasted bread cut in fanciful shapes4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fish1 #f;d4 ,,the ,,habitat ,,of ,,the ,,cod4--,this fish is found only in the seas of the northern parts of the world1 between the latitudes of #de and #ff4 ,its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of ,newfoundland1 ,nova ,scotia1 ,cape ,breton1 and ,new ,england4 ,these places are its favourite resorts2 for there it is able to obtain great quantities of worms1 a food peculiarly grateful to it4 ,another cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on account of the vicinity to the ,polar seas1 where it returns to spawn4 ,few are taken north of ,iceland1 and the shoals never reach so far south as the ,straits of ,gibraltar4 ,many are taken on the coasts of ,norway1 in the ,baltic1 and off the ,orkneys1 which1 prior to the discovery of ,newfoundland1 formed one of the principal fisheries4 ,the ,london market is supplied by those taken between the ,dogger ,bank1 the ,well ,bank1 and ,cromer1 on the east coast of ,england4 ,,cod ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel4 #bdj4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of cod1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 a little chopped shalot and parsley2 pepper to taste1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 or rather less1 when the flavour is not liked2 the juice of #a_/d lemon4 ,mode4--,boil the cod1 and either leave it whole1 or1 what is still better1 flake it from the bone1 and take off the skin4 ,put it into a stewpan with the butter1 parsley1 shalot1 pepper1 and nutmeg4 ,melt the butter gradually1 and be very careful that it does not become like oil4 ,when all is well mixed and thoroughly hot1 add the lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d42 with remains of cold fish1 #e;d4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,note4--,cod that has been left will do for this4 ,,the ,,season ,,for ,,fishing ,,cod4--,the best season for catching cod is from the beginning of ,february to the end of ,april2 and although each fisherman engaged in taking them1 catches no more than one at a time1 an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a day4 ,the employment is excessively fatiguing1 from the weight of the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate4 ,,cod ,a ,l',,italienne4 #bda4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of crimped cod1 #a shalot1 #a slice of ham minced very fine1 #a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg2 when liked1 #a_/b teacupful of cream2 salt to taste2 a few drops of garlic vinegar1 a little lemon-juice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,chop the shalots1 mince the ham very fine1 pour on the stock1 and simmer for #ae minutes4 ,if the colour should not be good1 add cream in the above proportion1 and strain it through a fine sieve2 season it1 and put in the vinegar1 lemon-juice1 and sugar4 ,now boil the cod1 take out the middle bone1 and skin it2 put it on the dish without breaking1 and pour the sauce over it4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d41 with fresh fish4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,the ,,fecundity ,,of ,,the ,,cod4--,in our preceding remarks on the natural history of fishes1 we have spoken of the amazing fruitfulness of this fish2 but in this we see one more instance of the wise provision which ,nature has made for supplying the wants of man4 ,so extensive has been the consumption of this fish1 that it is surprising that it has not long ago become extinct2 which would certainly have been the case1 had it not been for its wonderful powers of reproduction4 ,so early as #acfh1 says ,dr4 ,cloquet1 the inhabitants of ,amsterdam had dispatched fishermen to the coast of ,sweden2 and in the first quarter of #agib1 from the ports of ,france only1 #baj vessels went out to the cod-fisheries4 ,every year1 however1 upwards of #aj1jjj vessels1 of all nations1 are employed in this trade1 and bring into the commercial world more than #dj1jjj1jjj of salted and dried cod4 ,if we add to this immense number1 the havoc made among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great deep1 and take into account the destruction to which the young are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas1 besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident1 it becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them are still in existence1 and ready to continue the exhaustless supply4 ,yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that the female can every year give birth to more than #i1jjj1jjj at a time4 ,,baked ,,carp4 #bdb4 ,,ingredients--#a carp1 forcemeat1 bread crumbs1 #a oz4 butter1 #a_/b pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #a_/b pint of port wine1 #f anchovies1 #b onions sliced1 #a bay-leaf1 a faggot of sweet herbs1 flour to thicken1 the juice of #a lemon2 cayenne and salt to taste2 #a_/b teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat1 after thoroughly cleansing it1 and sew it up to prevent the stuffing from falling out4 ,rub it over with an egg1 and sprinkle it with bread crumbs1 lay it in a deep earthen dish1 and drop the butter1 oiled1 over the bread crumbs4 ,add the stock1 onions1 bay-leaf1 herbs1 wine1 and anchovies1 and bake for #a hour4 ,put #a oz4 of butter into a stewpan1 melt it1 and dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up2 put in the strained liquor from the carp1 stir frequently1 and when it has boiled1 add the lemon-juice and seasoning4 ,serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley and cut lemon1 and the sauce in a boat4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost4 ,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,sufficient for #a or #b persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,carp4 ,,the ,,carp4--,this species of fish inhabit the fresh waters1 where they feed on worms1 insects1 aquatic plants1 small fish1 clay1 or mould4 ,some of them are migratory4 ,they have very small mouths and no teeth1 and the gill membrane has three rays4 ,the body is smooth1 and generally whitish4 ,the carp both grows and increases very fast1 and is accounted the most valuable of all fish for the stocking of ponds4 ,it has been pronounced the queen of river-fish1 and was first introduced to this country about three hundred years ago4 ,of its sound1 or air-bladder1 a kind of glue is made1 and a green paint of its gall4 ,,stewed ,,carp4 #bdc4 ,,ingredients4--#a carp1 salt1 stock ,no4 #aje1 #b onions1 #f cloves1 #ab peppercorns1 #a blade of mace1 #a_/d pint of port wine1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 cayenne and salt to taste1 a faggot of savoury herbs4 ,mode4--,scale the fish1 clean it nicely1 and1 if very large1 divide it2 lay it in the stewpan1 after having rubbed a little salt on it1 and put in sufficient stock to cover it2 add the herbs1 onions1 and spices1 and stew gently for #a hour1 or rather more1 should it be very large4 ,dish up the fish with great care1 strain the liquor1 and add to it the port wine1 lemon-juice1 and cayenne2 give one boil1 pour it over the fish1 and serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost4 ,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,sufficient for #a or #b persons4 ,note4--,this fish can be boiled plain1 and served with parsley and butter4 ,chub and ,char may be cooked in the same manner as the above1 as also ,dace and ,roach4 ,,the ,,age ,,of ,,carp4--,this fish has been found to live #aej years4 ,the pond in the garden of ,emmanuel ,college1 ,cambridge1 contained one that had lived there #gj years1 and ,gesner mentions an instance of one #ajj years old4 ,they are1 besides1 capable of being tamed4 ,dr4 ,smith1 in his ,tour on the ,continent1 says1 in reference to the prince of ,cond's seat at ,chantilly1 ,the most pleasing things about it were the immense shoals of very large carp1 silvered over with age1 like silver-fish1 and perfectly tame2 so that1 when any passengers approached their watery habitation1 they used to come to the shore in such numbers as to heave each other out of the water1 begging for bread1 of which a quantity was always kept at hand1 on purpose to feed them4 ,they would even allow themselves to be handled4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,chub4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,char4 ,,the ,,chub4--,this fish takes its name from its head1 not only in ,england1 but in other countries4 ,it is a river-fish1 and resembles the carp1 but is somewhat longer4 ,its flesh is not in much esteem1 being coarse1 and1 when out of season1 full of small hairy bones4 ,the head and throat are the best parts4 ,the roe is also good4 ,,the ,,char4--,this is one of the most delicious of fish1 being esteemed by some superior to the salmon4 ,it is an inhabitant of the deep lakes of mountainous countries4 ,its flesh is rich and red1 and full of fat4 ,the largest and best kind is found in the lakes of ,westmoreland1 and1 as it is considered a rarity1 it is often potted and preserved4 ,,the ,,dace1 ,,or ,,dare4--,this fish is gregarious1 and is seldom above ten inches long2 although1 according to ,linnaeus1 it grows a foot and a half in length4 ,its haunts are in deep water1 near piles of bridges1 where the stream is gentle1 over gravelly1 sandy1 or clayey bottoms2 deep holes that are shaded1 water-lily leaves1 and under the foam caused by an eddy4 ,in the warm months they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near to streams4 ,they are in season about the end of ,april1 and gradually improve till ,february1 when they attain their highest condition4 ,in that month1 when just taken1 scotched 7crimped71 and broiled1 they are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring4 ,,the ,,roach4--,this fish is found throughout ,europe1 and the western parts of ,asia1 in deep still rivers1 of which it is an inhabitant4 ,it is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight1 and is in season from ,september till ,march4 ,it is plentiful in ,england1 and the finest are caught in the ,thames4 ,the proverb1 as sound as a roach1 is derived from the ,french name of this fish being roche1 which also means rock4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,dace4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,roach4 ,,to ,,dress ,,crab4 #bdd4 ,,ingredients4--#a crab1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #a ditto of oil2 salt1 white pepper1 and cayenne1 to taste4 ,mode4--,empty the shells1 and thoroughly mix the meat with the above ingredients1 and put it in the large shell4 ,garnish with slices of cut lemon and parsley4 ,the quantity of oil may be increased when it is much liked4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,i47 ,average cost1 from #aj;d4 to #bs4 ,seasonable all the year2 but not so good in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,,to ,,choose ,,crab4--,the middle-sized crab is the best2 and the crab1 like the lobster1 should be judged by its weight2 for if light1 it is watery4 ,,hot ,,crab4 #bde4 ,,ingredients4--#a crab1 nutmeg1 salt and pepper to taste1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #c tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,mode4--,after having boiled the crab1 pick the meat out from the shells1 and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning4 ,cut up the butter in small pieces1 and add the bread crumbs and vinegar4 ,mix altogether1 put the whole in the large shell1 and brown before the fire or with a salamander4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 from #aj;d4 to #bs4 ,seasonable all the year2 but not so good in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,crab4 ,,the ,,crab ,,tribe4--,the whole of this tribe of animals have the body covered with a hard and strong shell1 and they live chiefly in the sea4 ,some1 however1 inhabit fresh waters1 and a few live upon land4 ,they feed variously1 on aquatic or marine plants1 small fish1 molluscae1 or dead bodies4 ,the black-clawed species is found on the rocky coasts of both ,europe and ,india1 and is the same that is introduced to our tables1 being much more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the tribe4 ,the most remarkable feature in their history1 is the changing of their shells1 and the reproduction of their broken claws4 ,the former occurs once a year1 usually between ,christmas and ,easter1 when the crabs retire to cavities in the rocks1 or conceal themselves under great stones4 ,fishermen say that they will live confined in a pot or basket for several months together1 without any other food than what is collected from the sea-water2 and that1 even in this situation1 they will not decrease in weight4 ,the hermit crab is another of the species1 and has the peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some other animal1 as it has none of its own4 ,this circumstance was known to the ancients1 and is alluded to in the following lines from ,oppian3-- ,the hermit fish1 unarm'd by ,nature1 left ,helpless and weak1 grow strong by harmless theft4 ,fearful they stroll1 and look with panting wish ,for the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish2 ,or such as empty lie1 and deck the shore1 ,whose first and rightful owners are no more4 ,they make glad seizure of the vacant room1 ,and count the borrow'd shell their native home2 ,screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case1 ,and boldly herd with the crustaceous race4 ,,crayfish4 #bdf4 ,crayfish should be thrown into boiling water1 to which has been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar4 ,when done1 which will be in #a_/d hour1 take them out and drain them4 ,let them cool1 arrange them on a napkin1 and garnish with plenty of double parsley4 ,note4--,this fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey1 boiled fowl1 calf's head1 turbot1 and all kinds of boiled fish4 ,,potted ,,crayfish4 #bdg4 ,,ingredients4--#ajj crayfish2 pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b oz4 butter4 ,mode4--,boil the fish in salt and water2 pick out all the meat and pound it in a mortar to a paste4 ,whilst pounding1 add the butter gradually1 and mix in the spice and seasoning4 ,put it in small pots1 and pour over it clarified butter1 carefully excluding the air4 ,time4--#ae minutes to boil the crayfish4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,john ,,dory4 #bdh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,this fish1 which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy1 is dressed in the same way as a turbot1 which it resembles in firmness1 but not in richness4 ,cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins2 lay it in a fish-kettle1 cover with cold water1 and add salt in the above proportion4 ,bring it gradually to a boil1 and simmer gently for #a_/d hour1 or rather longer1 should the fish be very large4 ,serve on a hot napkin1 and garnish with cut lemon and parsley4 ,lobster1 anchovy1 or shrimp sauce1 and plain melted butter1 should be sent to table with it4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #a_/d to #a_/b hour1 according to size4 ,average cost1 #cs4 to #es4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,september to ,january4 ,note4--,small ,john ,dorie are very good1 baked4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,john ,,dory4 ,,the ,,doru1 or ,,john ,,dory4--,this fish is of a yellowish golden colour1 and is1 in general1 rare1 although it is sometimes taken in abundance on the ,devon and ,cornish coasts4 ,it is highly esteemed for the table1 and its flesh1 when dressed1 is of a beautiful clear white4 ,when fresh caught1 it is tough1 and1 being a ground fish1 it is not the worse for being kept two1 or even three days before it is cooked4 ,,boiled ,,eels4 #bdi4 ,,ingredients4--#d small eels1 sufficient water to cover them2 a large bunch of parsley4 ,mode4--,choose small eels for boiling2 put them in a stewpan with the parsley1 and just sufficient water to cover them2 simmer till tender4 ,take them out1 pour a little parsley and butter over them1 and serve some in a tureen4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,eel4 ,,the ,,eel ,,tribe4--,the ,apodal1 or bony-gilled and ventral-finned fish1 of which the eel forms the first ,linnaean tribe1 in their general aspect and manners1 approach1 in some instances1 very nearly to serpents4 ,they have a smooth head and slippery skin1 are in general naked1 or covered with such small1 soft1 and distant scales1 as are scarcely visible4 ,their bodies are long and slender1 and they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal substances4 ,there are about nine species of them1 mostly found in the seas4 ,one of them frequents our fresh waters1 and three of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores4 ,,stewed ,,eels4 ,i4 #bej4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of eels1 #a pint of rich strong stock1 ,no4 #ajd1 #a onion1 #c cloves1 a piece of lemon-peel1 #a glass of port or ,madeira1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream2 thickening of flour2 cayenne and lemon-juice to taste4 ,mode4--,wash and skin the eels1 and cut them into pieces about #c inches long2 pepper and salt them1 and lay them in a stewpan2 pour over the stock1 add the onion stuck with cloves1 the lemon-peel1 and the wine4 ,stew gently for #a_/b hour1 or rather more1 and lift them carefully on a dish1 which keep hot4 ,strain the gravy1 stir to the cream sufficient flour to thicken2 mix altogether1 boil for #b minutes1 and add the cayenne and lemon-juice2 pour over the eels and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,the ,,common ,,eel4--,this fish is known frequently to quit its native element1 and to set off on a wandering expedition in the night1 or just about the close of clay1 over the meadows1 in search of snails and other prey4 ,it also1 sometimes1 betakes itself to isolated ponds1 apparently for no other pleasure than that which may be supposed to be found in a change of habitation4 ,this1 of course1 accounts for eels being found in waters which were never suspected to contain them4 ,this rambling disposition in the eel has been long known to naturalists1 and1 from the following lines1 it seems to have been known to the ancients3-- ,thus the mail'd tortoise1 and the wand'ring2 eel1 ,oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal4 ,,ii4 #bea4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of middling-sized eels1 #a pint of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje1 #a_/d pint of port wine2 salt1 cayenne1 and mace to taste2 #a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy1 the juice of #a_/b a lemon4 ,mode4--,skin1 wash1 and clean the eels thoroughly2 cut them into pieces #c inches long1 and put them into strong salt and water for #a hour2 dry them well with a cloth1 and fry them brown4 ,put the stock on with the heads and tails of the eels1 and simmer for #a_/b hour2 strain it1 and add all the other ingredients4 ,put in the eels1 and stew gently for #a_/b hour1 when serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,fried ,,eels4 #beb4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of eels1 #a egg1 a few bread crumbs1 hot lard4 ,mode4--,wash the eels1 cut them into pieces #c inches long1 trim and wipe them very dry2 dredge with flour1 rub them over with egg1 and cover with bread crumbs2 fry of a nice brown in hot lard4 ,if the eels are small1 curl them round1 instead of cutting them up4 ,garnish with fried parsley4 ,time4--#bj minutes1 or rather less4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,note4--,garfish may be dressed like eels1 and either broiled or baked4 ,,the ,,productiveness ,,of ,,the ,,eel4--,having occasion1 says ,dr4 ,anderson1 in the ,bee1 to be once on a visit to a friend's house on ,dee-side1 in ,aberdeenshire1 ,i frequently delighted to walk by the banks of the river4 ,i1 one day1 observed something like a black string moving along the edge of the water where it was quite shallow4 ,upon closer inspection1 ,i discovered that this was a shoal of young eels1 so closely joined together as to appear1 on a superficial view1 on continued body1 moving briskly up against the stream4 ,to avoid the retardment they experienced from the force of the current1 they kept close along the water's edge the whole of the way1 following all the bendings and sinuosities of the river4 ,where they were embayed1 and in still water1 the shoal dilated in breadth1 so as to be sometimes nearly a foot broad2 but when they turned a cape1 where the current was strong1 they were forced to occupy less space and press close to the shore1 struggling very hard till they passed it4 ,this shoal continued to move on1 night and day without interruption for several weeks4 ,their progress might be at the rate of about a mile an hour4 ,it was easy to catch the animals1 though they were very active and nimble4 ,they were eels perfectly well formed in every respect1 but not exceeding two inches in length4 ,i conceive that the shoal did not contain1 on an average1 less than from twelve to twenty in breadth2 so that the number that passed1 on the whole1 must have been very great4 ,whence they came or whither they went1 ,i know not2 but the place where ,i saw this1 was six miles from the sea4 ,,eel ,,pie4 #bec4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of eels1 a little chopped parsley1 #a shalot2 grated nutmeg2 pepper and salt to taste2 the juice of #a_/b a lemon1 small quantity of forcemeat1 #a_/d pint of bchamel 7see ,sauces72 puff paste4 ,mode4--,skin and wash the eels1 cut them into pieces #b inches long1 and line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat4 ,put in the eels1 and sprinkle them with the parsley1 shalots1 nutmeg1 seasoning1 and lemon-juice1 and cover with puff-paste4 ,bake for #a hour1 or rather more2 make the bchamel hot1 and pour it into the pie4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,collared ,,eel4 #bed4 ,,ingredients4--#a large eel2 pepper and salt to taste2 #b blades of mace1 #b cloves1 a little allspice very finely pounded1 #f leaves of sage1 and a small bunch of herbs minced very small4 ,mode4--,bone the eel and skin it2 split it1 and sprinkle it over with the ingredients1 taking care that the spices are very finely pounded1 and the herbs chopped very small4 ,roll it up and bind with a broad piece of tape1 and boil it in water1 mixed with a little salt and vinegar1 till tender4 ,it may either be served whole or cut in slices2 and when cold1 the eel should be kept in the liquor it was boiled in1 but with a little more vinegar put to it4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,haunts ,,of ,,the ,,eel4--,these are usually in mud1 among weeds1 under roots or stumps of trees1 or in holes in the banks or the bottoms of rivers4 ,here they often grow to an enormous size1 sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds4 ,they seldom come forth from their hiding-places except in the night2 and1 in winter1 bury themselves deep in the mud1 on account of their great susceptibility of cold4 ,,eels ,a ,,la ,,tartare4 #bee4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of eels1 #a carrot1 #a onion1 a little flour1 #a glass of sherry2 salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg to taste2 bread crumbs1 #a egg1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,mode4--,rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan2 cut up the carrot and onion1 and stir them over the fire for #e minutes2 dredge in a little flour1 add the wine and seasoning1 and boil for #a_/b an hour4 ,skin and wash the eels1 cut them into pieces1 put them to the other ingredients1 and simmer till tender4 ,when they are done1 take them out1 let them get cold1 cover them with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry them of a nice brown4 ,put them on a dish1 pour sauce piquante over1 and serve them hot4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d41 exclusive of the sauce piquante4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,voracity ,,of ,,the ,,eel4--,we find in a note upon ,isaac ,walton1 by ,sir ,john ,hawkins1 that he knew of eels1 when kept in ponds1 frequently destroying ducks4 ,from a canal near his house at ,twickenham he himself missed many young ducks2 and on draining1 in order to clean it1 great numbers of large eels were caught in the mud4 ,when some of these were opened1 there were found in their stomachs the undigested heads of the quacking tribe which had become their victims4 ,,eels ,,en ,,matelote4 #bef4 ,,ingredients4--#e or #f young onions1 a few mushrooms1 when obtainable2 salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg to taste2 #a laurel-leaf1 #a_/b pint of port wine1 #a_/b pint of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje2 butter and flour to thicken2 #b lbs4 of eels4 ,mode4--,rub the stewpan with butter1 dredge in a little flour1 add the onions cut very small1 slightly brown them1 and put in all the other ingredients4 ,wash1 and cut up the eels into pieces #c inches long2 put them in the stewpan1 and simmer for #a_/b hour4 ,make round the dish1 a border of croutons1 or pieces of toasted bread2 arrange the eels in a pyramid in the centre1 and pour over the sauce4 ,serve very hot4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 for this quantity4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,tenacity ,,of ,,life ,,in ,,the ,,eel4--,there is no fish so tenacious of life as this4 ,after it is skinned and cut in pieces1 the parts will continue to move for a considerable time1 and no fish will live so long out of water4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,lamprey4 ,,the ,,lamprey4--,with the ,romans1 this fish occupied a respectable rank among the piscine tribes1 and in ,britain it has at various periods stood high in public favour4 ,it was the cause of the death of ,henry ,i4 of ,england1 who ate so much of them1 that it brought on an attack of indigestion1 which carried him off4 ,it is an inhabitant of the sea1 ascending rivers1 principally about the end of winter1 and1 after passing a few months in fresh water1 returning again to its oceanic residence4 ,it is most in season in ,march1 ,april1 and ,may1 but is1 by some1 regarded as an unwholesome food1 although looked on by others as a great delicacy4 ,they are dressed as eels4 ,,fish ,,and ,,oyster ,,pie4 #beg4 ,,ingredients4--,any remains of cold fish1 such as cod or haddock2 #b dozen oysters1 pepper and salt to taste1 bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish2 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley4 ,mode4--,clear the fish from the bones1 and put a layer of it in a pie-dish1 which sprinkle with pepper and salt2 then a layer of bread crumbs1 oysters1 nutmeg1 and chopped parsley4 ,repeat this till the dish is quite full4 ,you may form a covering either of bread crumbs1 which should be browned1 or puff-paste1 which should be cut into long strips1 and laid in cross-bars over the fish1 with a line of the paste first laid round the edge4 ,before putting on the top1 pour in some made melted butter1 or a little thin white sauce1 and the oyster-liquor1 and bake4 ,time4--,if made of cooked fish1 #a_/d hour2 if made of fresh fish and puff-paste1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,note4--,a nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish1 adding a few oysters1 seasoning with pepper and salt1 and covering with mashed potatoes2 #a_/d hour will bake it4 ,,fish ,,cake4 #beh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of any cold fish1 #a onion1 #a faggot of sweet herbs2 salt and pepper to taste1 #a pint of water1 equal quantities of bread crumbs and cold potatoes1 #a_/b teaspoonful of parsley1 #a egg1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the bones of the fish1 which latter put1 with the head and fins1 into a stewpan with the water2 add pepper and salt1 the onion and herbs1 and stew slowly for gravy about #b hours2 chop the fish fine1 and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold potatoes1 adding the parsley and seasoning2 make the whole into a cake with the white of an egg1 brush it over with egg1 cover with bread crumbs1 and fry of a light brown2 strain the gravy1 pour it over1 and stew gently for #a_/d hour1 stirring it carefully once or twice4 ,serve hot1 and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley4 ,time--#a_/b hour1 after the gravy is made4 ,,boiled ,,flounders4 #bei4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient water to cover the flounders1 salt in the proportion of #f oz4 to each gallon1 a little vinegar4 ,mode4--,pat on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders1 lay in the fish1 add salt and vinegar in the above proportions1 and when it boils1 simmer very gently for #e minutes4 ,they must not boil fast1 or they will break4 ,serve with plain melted butter1 or parsley and butter4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #e minutes4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 each4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,november4 ,illustration3 ,,flounders4 ,,the ,,flounder4--,this comes under the tribe usually denominated ,flat-fish1 and is generally held in the smallest estimation of any among them4 ,it is an inhabitant of both the seas and the rivers1 while it thrives in ponds4 ,on the ,english coasts it is very abundant1 and the ,london market consumes it in large quantities4 ,it is considered easy of digestion1 and the ,thames flounder is esteemed a delicate fish4 ,,fried ,,flounders4 #bfj4 ,,ingredients4--,flounders1 egg1 and bread crumbs2 boiling lard4 ,mode4--,cleanse the fish1 and1 two hours before they are wanted1 rub them inside and out with salt1 to render them firm2 wash and wipe them very dry1 dip them into egg1 and sprinkle over with bread crumbs2 fry them in boiling lard1 dish on a hot napkin1 and garnish with crisped parsley4 ,time4--,from #e to #aj minutes1 according to size4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 each4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,november4 ,sufficient1 #a for each person4 ,,gudgeons4 #bfa4 ,,ingredients4--,egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish2 hot lard4 ,mode4--,do not scrape off the scales1 but take out the gills and inside1 and cleanse thoroughly2 wipe them dry1 flour and dip them into egg1 and sprinkle over with bread crumbs4 ,fry of a nice brown4 ,time4--#c or #d minutes4 ,average cost4 ,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,july4 ,sufficient1 #c for each person4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,gudgeon4 ,,the ,,gudgeon4--,this is a fresh-water fish1 belonging to the carp genus1 and is found in placid streams and lakes4 ,it was highly esteemed by the ,greeks1 and was1 at the beginning of supper1 served fried at ,rome4 ,it abounds both in ,france and ,germany2 and is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of ,england4 ,its flesh is firm1 well-flavoured1 and easily digested4 ,,gurnet1 or ,,gurnard4 #bfb4 ,,ingredients4--#a gurnet1 #f oz4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse the fish thoroughly1 and cut off the fins2 have ready some boiling water1 with salt in the above proportion2 put the fish in1 and simmer very gently for #a_/b hour4 ,parsley and butter1 or anchovy sauce1 should be served with it4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost4 ,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march1 but in perfection in ,october4 ,sufficient1 a middling sized one for #b persons4 ,note4--,this fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,gurnet4 ,,the ,,gurnet4-,if ,i be not ashamed of my soldiers1 ,i am a souced gurnet1 says ,falstaff2 which shows that this fish has been long known in ,england4 ,it is very common on the ,british coasts1 and is an excellent fish as food4 ,,baked ,,haddocks4 #bfc4 ,,ingredients4--,a nice forcemeat 7see ,forcemeats71 butter to taste1 egg and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,scale and clean the fish1 without cutting it open much2 put in a nice delicate forcemeat1 and sew up the slit4 ,brush it over with egg1 sprinkle over bread crumbs1 and baste frequently with butter4 ,garnish with parsley and cut lemon1 and serve with a nice brown gravy1 plain melted butter1 or anchovy sauce4 ,the egg and bread crumbs can be omitted1 and pieces of butter placed over the fish4 ,time4--,large haddock1 #c_/d hour2 moderate size1 #a_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,february4 ,average cost1 from #i;d4 upwards4 ,note4--,haddocks may be filleted1 rubbed over with egg and bread crumbs1 and fried a nice brown2 garnish with crisped parsley4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,haddock4 ,,the ,,haddock4--,this fish migrates in immense shoals1 and arrives on the ,yorkshire coast about the middle of winter4 ,it is an inhabitant of the northern seas of ,europe1 but does not enter the ,baltic1 and is not known in the ,mediterranean4 ,on each side of the body1 just beyond the gills1 it has a dark spot1 which superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and thumb of ,st4 ,peter1 when taking the tribute money out of a fish of this species4 ,,boiled ,,haddock4 #bfd4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient water to cover the fish2 #a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,scrape the fish1 take out the inside1 wash it thoroughly1 and lay it in a kettle1 with enough water to cover it and salt in the above proportion4 ,simmer gently from #ae to #bj minutes1 or rather more1 should the fish be very large4 ,for small haddocks1 fasten the tails in their mouths1 and put them into boiling water4 #aj to #ae minutes will cook them4 ,serve with plain melted butter1 or anchovy sauce4 ,time4--,large haddock1 #a_/b hour2 small1 #a_/d hour1 or rather less4 ,average cost1 from #i;d4 upwards4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,february4 ,,weight ,,of ,,the ,,haddock4--,the haddock seldom grows to any great size4 ,in general1 they do not weigh more than two or three pounds1 or exceed ten or twelve inches in size4 ,such are esteemed very delicate eating2 but they have been caught three feet long1 when their flesh is coarse4 ,,dried ,,haddock4 ,i4 #bfe4 ,dried haddock should be gradually warmed through1 either before or over a nice clear fire4 ,hub a little piece of butter over1 just before sending it to table4 ,,ii4 #bff4 ,,ingredients4--#a large thick haddock1 #b bay-leaves1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs1 not forgetting parsley1 a little butter and pepper2 boiling water4 ,mode4--,cut up the haddock into square pieces1 make a basin hot by means of hot water1 which pour out4 ,lay in the fish1 with the bay-leaves and herbs2 cover with boiling water2 put a plate over to keep in the steam1 and let it remain for #aj minutes4 ,take out the slices1 put them in a hot dish1 rub over with butter and pepper1 and serve4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,seasonable at any time1 but best in winter4 ,,the ,,finnan ,,haddock4--,this is the common haddock cured and dried1 and takes its name from the fishing-village of ,findhorn1 near ,aberdeen1 in ,scotland1 where the art has long attained to perfection4 ,the haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in the smoke of peat1 when they are ready for cooking1 and are esteemed1 by the ,scotch1 a great delicacy4 ,in ,london1 an imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with pyroligneous acid1 and hanging it up in a dry place for a few days4 ,,red ,,herrings1 or ,,yarmouth ,,bloaters4 #bfg4 ,the best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across the fish1 because they do not then require to be so long on the fire1 and will be far better than when cut open4 ,the hard roe makes a nice relish by pounding it in a mortar1 with a little anchovy1 and spreading it on toast4 ,if very dry1 soak in warm water #a hour before dressing4 ,,the ,,red ,,herring4--,red herrings lie twenty-four hours in the brine1 when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house formed to receive them4 ,a brushwood fire is then kindled beneath them1 and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried1 they are put into barrels for carriage4 ,,baked ,,white ,,herrings4 #bfh4 ,,ingredients4--#ab herrings1 #d bay-leaves1 #ab cloves1 #ab allspice1 #b small blades of mace1 cayenne pepper and salt to taste1 sufficient vinegar to fill up the dish4 ,mode4--,take the herrings1 cut off the heads1 and gut them4 ,put them in a pie-dish1 heads and tails alternately1 and1 between each layer1 sprinkle over the above ingredients4 ,cover the fish with the vinegar1 and bake for #a_/b hour1 but do not use it till quite cold4 ,the herrings may be cut down the front1 the backbone taken out1 and closed again4 ,sprats done in this way are very delicious4 ,time4--#a_/b an hour4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,,to ,,choose ,,the ,,herring4--,the more scales this fish has1 the surer the sign of its freshness4 ,it should also have a bright and silvery look2 but if red about the head1 it is a sign that it has been dead for some time4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,herring4 ,,the ,,herring4--,the herring tribe are found in the greatest abundance in the highest northern latitudes1 where they find a quiet retreat1 and security from their numerous enemies4 ,here they multiply beyond expression1 and1 in shoals1 come forth from their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep4 ,in ,june they are found about ,shetland1 whence they proceed down to the ,orkneys1 where they divide1 and surround the islands of ,great ,britain and ,ireland4 ,the principal ,british herring-fisheries are off the ,scotch and ,norfolk coasts2 and the fishing is always carried on by means of nets1 which are usually laid at night2 for1 if stretched by day1 they are supposed to frighten the fish away4 ,the moment the herring is taken out of the water it dies4 ,hence the origin of the common saying1 dead as a herring4 ,,kegeree4 #bfi4 ,,ingredients4--,any cold fish1 #a teacupful of boiled rice1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of mustard1 #b soft-boiled eggs1 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,pick the fish carefully from the bones1 mix with the other ingredients1 and serve very hot4 ,the quantities may be varied according to the amount of fish used4 ,time4--#a_/d hour after the rice is boiled4 ,average cost1 #e;d41 exclusive of the fish4 ,,to ,,boil ,,lobsters4 #bgj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,buy the lobsters alive1 and choose those that are heavy and full of motion1 which is an indication of their freshness4 ,when the shell is incrusted1 it is a sign they are old3 medium-sized lobsters are the best4 ,have ready a stewpan of boiling water1 salted in the above proportion2 put in the lobster1 and keep it boiling quickly from #bj minutes to #c_/d hour1 according to its size1 and do not forget to skim well4 ,if it boils too long1 the meat becomes thready1 and if not done enough1 the spawn is not red3 this must be obviated by great attention4 ,hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil1 which wipe off again4 ,time4--,small lobster1 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour2 large ditto1 #a_/b to #a_/c hour4 ,average cost1 medium size1 #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,march to ,october4 ,,to ,,choose ,,lobsters4--,this shell-fish1 if it has been cooked alive1 as it ought to have been1 will have a stiffness in the tail1 which1 if gently raised1 will return with a spring4 ,care1 however1 must be taken in thus proving it2 for if the tail is pulled straight out1 it will not return2 when the fish might be pronounced inferior1 which1 in reality1 may not be the case4 ,in order to be good1 lobsters should be weighty for their bulk2 if light1 they will be watery2 and those of the medium size1 are always the best4 ,small-sized lobsters are cheapest1 and answer very well for sauce4 ,in boiling lobsters1 the appearance of the shell will be much improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on being immediately taken from the pot4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,lobster4 ,,the ,,lobster4--,this is one of the crab tribe1 and is found on most of the rocky coasts of ,great ,britain4 ,some are caught with the hand1 but the larger number in pots1 which serve all the purposes of a trap1 being made of osiers1 and baited with garbage4 ,they are shaped like a wire mousetrap2 so that when the lobsters once enter them1 they cannot get out again4 ,they are fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea1 and their place marked by a buoy4 ,the fish is very prolific1 and deposits of its eggs in the sand1 where they are soon hatched4 ,on the coast of ,norway1 they are very abundant1 and it is from there that the ,english metropolis is mostly supplied4 ,they are rather indigestible1 and1 as a food1 not so nurtritive as they are generally supposed to be4 ,,hot ,,lobster4 #bga4 ,,ingredients4--#a lobster1 #b oz4 of butter1 grated nutmeg2 salt1 pepper1 and pounded mace1 to taste2 bread crumbs1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butter and seasoning1 and add a few bread crumbs4 ,beat the eggs1 and make the whole mixture into the form of a lobster2 pound the spawn1 and sprinkle over it4 ,bake #a_/d hour1 and just before serving1 lay over it the tail and body shell1 with the small claws underneath1 to resemble a lobster4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,lobster ,,salad4 #bgb4 ,,ingredients4--#a hen lobster1 lettuces1 endive1 small salad 7whatever is in season71 a little chopped beetroot1 #b hard-boiled eggs1 a few slices of cucumber4 ,for dressing1 equal quantities of oil and vinegar1 #a teaspoonful of made mustard1 the yolks of #b eggs2 cayenne and salt to taste2 #c teaspoonful of anchovy sauce4 ,these ingredients should be mixed perfectly smooth1 and form a creamy-looking sauce4 ,mode4--,wash the salad1 and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth4 ,cut up the lettuces and endive1 pour the dressing on them1 and lightly throw in the small salad4 ,mix all well together with the pickings from the body of the lobster2 pick the meat from the shell1 cut it up into nice square pieces1 put half in the salad1 the other half reserve for garnishing4 ,separate the yolks from the whites of #b hard-boiled eggs2 chop the whites very fine1 and rub the yolks through a sieve1 and afterwards the coral from the inside4 ,arrange the salad lightly on a glass dish1 and garnish1 first with a row of sliced cucumber1 then with the pieces of lobster1 the yolks and whites of the eggs1 coral1 and beetroot placed alternately1 and arranged in small separate bunches1 so that the colours contrast nicely4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,october2 may be had all the year1 but salad is scarce and expensive in winter4 ,note4--,a few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad4 ,,the ,,shell ,,of ,,the ,,lobster4--,like the others of its tribe1 the lobster annually casts its shell4 ,previously to its throwing off the old one1 it appears sick1 languid1 and restless1 but in the course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of armour4 ,whilst it is in a defenceless state1 however1 it seeks some lonely place1 where it may lie undisturbed1 and escape the horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who have the advantage of still being encased in their mail4 ,,lobster 7a la ,mode ,francaise74 #bgc4 ,,ingredients4--#a lobster1 #d tablespoonfuls of white stock1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream1 pounded mace1 and cayenne to taste2 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the shell1 and cut it up into small square pieces2 put the stock1 cream1 and seasoning into a stewpan1 add the lobster1 and let it simmer gently for #f minutes4 ,serve it in the shell1 which must be nicely cleaned1 and have a border of puff-paste2 cover it with bread crumbs1 place small pieces of butter over1 and brown before the fire1 or with a salamander4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,celerity ,,of ,,the ,,lobster4--,in its element1 the lobster is able to run with great speed upon its legs1 or small claws1 and1 if alarmed1 to spring1 tail foremost1 to a considerable distance1 even1 it is said1 with the swiftness of a bird flying4 ,fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a wonderful degree of swiftness4 ,when frightened1 they will take their spring1 and1 like a chamois of the ,alps1 plant themselves upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves4 ,,lobster ,,curry 7an ,entree74 #bgd4 ,,ingredients4--#a lobster1 #b onions1 #a oz4 butter1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 #a_/b pint of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje1 the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the shell1 and cut it into nice square pieces2 fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter1 stir in the curry-powder and stock1 and simmer till it thickens1 when put in the lobster2 stew the whole slowly for #a_/b hour1 and stir occasionally2 and just before sending to table1 put in the lemon-juice4 ,serve boiled rice with it1 the same as for other curries4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #cs4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lobster ,,cutlets 7an ,entree74 #bge4 ,,ingredients4--#a large hen lobster1 #a oz4 fresh butter1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 pounded mace1 grated nutmeg1 cayenne and white pepper to taste1 egg1 and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the shell1 and pound it in a mortar with the butter1 and gradually add the mace and seasoning1 well mixing the ingredients2 beat all to a smooth paste1 and add a little of the spawn2 divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size1 and shape them like cutlets4 ,they should not be very thick4 ,brush them over with egg1 and sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and stick a short piece of the small claw in the top of each2 fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard1 and drain them before the fire1 on a sieve reversed2 arrange them nicely on a dish1 and pour bchamel in the middle1 but not over the cutlets4 ,time4--,about #h minutes after the cutlets are made4 ,average cost for this dish1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,ancient ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking ,,the ,,lobster4--,when this fish was to be served for the table1 among the ancients1 it was opened lengthwise1 and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and pepper4 ,it was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked1 whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with which the flesh had become impregnated4 ,,to ,,dress ,,lobsters4 #bgf4 ,when the lobster is boiled1 rub it over with a little salad-oil1 which wipe off again2 separate the body from the tail1 break off the great claws1 and crack them at the joints1 without injuring the meat2 split the tail in halves1 and arrange all neatly in a dish1 with the body upright in the middle1 and garnish with parsley4 7,see ,coloured ,plate1 ,h47 ,,lobster ,,patties 7an ,entree74 #bgg4 ,,ingredients4--,minced lobster1 #d tablespoonfuls of bchamel1 #f drops of anchovy sauce1 lemon-juice1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,line the patty-pans with puff-paste1 and put into each a small piece of bread3 cover with paste1 brush over with egg1 and bake of a light colour4 ,take as much lobster as is required1 mince the meat very fine1 and add the above ingredients2 stir it over the fire for #f minutes2 remove the lids of the patty-cases1 take out the bread1 fill with the mixture1 and replace the covers4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,local ,,attachment ,,of ,,the ,,lobster4--,it is said that the attachment of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea1 a circumstance celebrated in the following lines3-- ,nought like their home the constant lobsters prize1 ,and foreign shores and seas unknown despise4 ,though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel1 ,and force the captive from his native cell1 ,he will1 if freed1 return with anxious care1 ,find the known rock1 and to his home repair2 ,no novel customs learns in different seas1 ,but wonted food and home-taught manners please4 ,,potted ,,lobster4 #bgh4 ,,ingredients4--#b lobsters2 seasoning to taste1 of nutmeg1 pounded mace1 white pepper1 and salt2 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #c or #d bay-leaves4 ,mode4--,take out the meat carefully from the shell1 but do not cut it up4 ,put some butter at the bottom of a dish1 lay in the lobster as evenly as possible1 with the bay-leaves and seasoning between4 ,cover with butter1 and bake for #c_/d hour in a gentle oven4 ,when done1 drain the whole on a sieve1 and lay the pieces in potting-jars1 with the seasoning about them4 ,when cold1 pour over it clarified butter1 and1 if very highly seasoned1 it will keep some time4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #ds4 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,potted lobster may be used cold1 or as fricassee with cream sauce4 ,how the ,lobster ,feeds4--,the pincers of the lobster's large claws are furnished with nobs1 and those of the other1 are always serrated4 ,with the former1 it keeps firm hold of the stalks of submarine plants1 and with the latter1 it cuts and minces its food with great dexterity4 ,the knobbed1 or numb claw1 as it is called by fishermen1 is sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left1 indifferently4 ,,baked ,,mackerel4 #bgi4 ,,ingredients4--#d middling-sized mackerel1 a nice delicate forcemeat 7see ,forcemeats71 #c oz4 of butter2 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,clean the fish1 take out the roes1 and fill up with forcemeat1 and sew up the slit4 ,flour1 and put them in a dish1 heads and tails alternately1 with the roes2 and1 between each layer1 put some little pieces of butter1 and pepper and salt4 ,bake for #a_/b an hour1 and either serve with plain melted butter or a matre d'htel sauce4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #aj;d4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,note4--,baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings 7see ,no4 #bfh71 and may also be stewed in wine4 ,,weight ,,of ,,the ,,mackerel4--,the greatest weight of this fish seldom exceeds #b lbs41 whilst their ordinary length runs between #ad and #bj inches4 ,they die almost immediately after they are taken from their element1 and1 for a short time1 exhibit a phosphoric light4 ,,boiled ,,mackerel4 #bhj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly1 and lay it in the kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above2 bring it gradually to boil1 skim well1 and simmer gently till done2 dish them on a hot napkin1 heads and tails alternately1 and garnish with fennel4 ,fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to boiled mackerel2 but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it4 7,see ,coloured ,plate1 ,f47 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #aj minutes2 for large mackerel1 allow more time4 ,average cost1 from #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,note4--,when variety is desired1 fillet the mackerel1 boil it1 and pour over parsley and butter2 send some of this1 besides1 in a tureen4 ,,broiled ,,mackerel4 #bha4 ,,ingredients4--,pepper and salt to taste1 a small quantity of oil4 ,mode4--,mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled1 but merely wiped very clean and dry1 after taking out the gills and insides4 ,open the back1 and put in a little pepper1 salt1 and oil2 broil it over a clear fire1 turn it over on both sides1 and also on the back4 ,when sufficiently cooked1 the flesh can be detached from the bone1 which will be in about #ae minutes for a small mackerel4 ,chop a little parsley1 work it up in the butter1 with pepper and salt to taste1 and a squeeze of lemon-juice1 and put it in the back4 ,serve before the butter is quite melted1 with a matre d'htel sauce in a tureen4 ,time4--,small mackerel #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 from #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mackerel4 ,,the ,,mackerel4--,this is not only one of the most elegantly-formed1 but one of the most beautifully-coloured fishes1 when taken out of the sea1 that we have4 ,death1 in some degree1 impairs the vivid splendour of its colours2 but it does not entirely obliterate them4 ,it visits the shores of ,great ,britain in countless shoals1 appearing about ,march1 off the ,land's ,end2 in the bays of ,devonshire1 about ,april2 off ,brighton in the beginning of ,may2 and on the coast of ,suffolk about the beginning of ,june4 ,in the ,orkneys they are seen till ,august2 but the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of ,england4 ,,to ,,choose ,,mackerel4--,in choosing this fish1 purchasers should1 to a great extent1 be regulated by the brightness of its appearance4 ,if it have a transparent1 silvery hue1 the flesh is good2 but if it be red about the head1 it is stale4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,mackerel4 #bhb4 ,,ingredients4--#b large mackerel1 #a oz4 butter1 #a small bunch of chopped herbs1 #c tablespoonfuls of medium stock1 ,no4 #aje1 #c tablespoonfuls of bchamel 7see ,sauces72 salt1 cayenne1 and lemon-juice to taste4 ,mode4--,clean the fish1 and fillet it2 scald the herbs1 chop them fine1 and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan4 ,lay in the mackerel1 and simmer very gently for #aj minutes2 take them out1 and put them on a hot dish4 ,dredge in a little flour1 add the other ingredients1 give one boil1 and pour it over the mackerel4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,note4--,fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs1 and fried of a nice brown4 ,serve with matre d'htel sauce and plain melted butter4 ,,the ,,voracity ,,of ,,the ,,mackerel4--,the voracity of this fish is very great1 and1 from their immense numbers1 they are bold in attacking objects of which they might1 otherwise1 be expected to have a wholesome dread4 ,pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the coast of ,norway1 who1 having gone into the sea to bathe1 was suddenly missed by his companions2 in the course of a few minutes1 however1 he was seen on the surface1 with great numbers of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths4 ,his comrades hastened in a boat to his assistance2 but when they had struck the fishes from him and got him up1 they found he was so severely bitten1 that he shortly afterward expired4 ,,pickled ,,mackerel4 #bhc4 ,,ingredients4--#ab peppercorns1 #b bay-leaves1 #a_/b pint of vinegar1 #d mackerel4 ,mode4--,boil the mackerel as in the recipe ,no4 #bhb1 and lay them in a dish2 take half the liquor they were boiled in2 add as much vinegar1 peppercorns1 and bay-leaves2 boil for #aj minutes1 and when cold1 pour over the fish4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,,mackerel ,,garum4--,this brine1 so greatly esteemed by the ancients1 was manufactured from various kinds of fishes4 ,when mackerel was employed1 a few of them were placed in a small vase1 with a large quantity of salt1 which was well stirred1 and then left to settle for some hours4 ,on the following day1 this was put into an earthen pot1 which was uncovered1 and placed in a situation to get the rays of the sun4 ,at the end of two or three months1 it was hermetically sealed1 after having had added to it a quantity of old wine1 equal to one third of the mixture4 ,,grey ,,mullet4 #bhd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,if the fish be very large1 it should be laid in cold water1 and gradually brought to a boil2 if small1 put it in boiling water1 salted in the above proportion4 ,serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted butter4 ,time4--,according to size1 #a_/d to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,october4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,grey ,,mullet4 ,,the ,,grey ,,mullet4--,this is quite a different fish from the red mullet1 is abundant on the sandy coasts of ,great ,britain1 and ascends rivers for miles4 ,on the south coast it is very plentiful1 and is considered a fine fish4 ,it improves more than any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds4 ,,red ,,mullet4 #bhe4 ,,ingredients4--,oiled paper1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a_/b teaspoonful of anchovy sauce1 #a glass of sherry2 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,clean the fish1 take out the gills1 but leave the inside1 fold in oiled paper1 and bake them gently4 ,when done1 take the liquor that flows from the fish1 add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour2 put in the other ingredients1 and let it boil for #b minutes4 ,serve the sauce in a tureen1 and the fish1 either with or without the paper cases4 ,time4--,about #be minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 each4 ,seasonable at any time1 but more plentiful in summer4 ,note4--,red mullet may be broiled1 and should be folded in oiled paper1 the same as in the preceding recipe1 and seasoned with pepper and salt4 ,they may be served without sauce2 but if any is required1 use melted butter1 ,italian or anchovy sauce4 ,they should never be plain boiled4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,striped ,,red ,,mullet4 ,,the ,,striped ,,red ,,mullet4--,this fish was very highly esteemed by the ancients1 especially by the ,romans1 who gave the most extravagant prices for it4 ,those of #b lbs4 weight were valued at about #ae each2 those of #d lbs4 at #fj1 and1 in the reign of ,tiberius1 three of them were sold for #bji4 ,to witness the changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies1 was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid for one of these fishes4 ,it frequents our ,cornish and ,sussex coasts1 and is in high request1 the flesh being firm1 white1 and well flavoured4 ,,fried ,,oysters4 #bhf4 ,,ingredients4--#c dozen oysters1 #b oz4 butter1 #a tablespoonful of ketchup1 a little chopped lemon-peel1 #a_/b teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,mode4--,boil the oysters for #a minute in their own liquor1 and drain them2 fry them with the butter1 ketchup1 lemon-peel1 and parsley2 lay them on a dish1 and garnish with fried potatoes1 toasted sippets1 and parsley4 ,this is a delicious delicacy1 and is a favourite ,italian dish4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,edible ,,oyster4 ,,the ,,edible ,,oyster3--,this shell-fish is almost universally distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes1 and they especially abound on the coasts of ,france and ,britain4 ,the coasts most celebrated1 in ,england1 for them1 are those of ,essex and ,suffolk4 ,here they are dredged up by means of a net with an iron scraper at the mouth1 that is dragged by a rope from a boat over the beds4 ,as soon as taken from their native beds1 they are stored in pits1 formed for the purpose1 furnished with sluices1 through which1 at the spring tides1 the water is suffered to flow4 ,this water1 being stagnant1 soon becomes green in warm weather2 and1 in a few days afterwards1 the oysters acquire the same tinge1 which increases their value in the market4 ,they do not1 however1 attain their perfection and become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks4 ,oysters are not considered proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old2 so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale1 till1 at least1 the ,september twelvemonth afterwards4 ,,scalloped ,,oysters4 ,i4 #bhg4 ,,ingredients4--,oysters1 say #a pint1 #a oz4 butter1 flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of white stock1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream2 pepper and salt to taste2 bread crumbs1 oiled butter4 ,mode4--,scald the oysters in their own liquor1 take them out1 beard them1 and strain the liquor free from grit4 ,put #a oz4 of batter into a stewpan2 when melted1 dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up2 add the stock1 cream1 and strained liquor1 and give one boil4 ,put in the oysters and seasoning2 let them gradually heat through1 but not boil4 ,have ready the scallop-shells buttered2 lay in the oysters1 and as much of the liquid as they will hold2 cover them over with bread crumbs1 over which drop a little oiled butter4 ,brown them in the oven1 or before the fire1 and serve quickly1 and very hot4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,ii4 ,prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe1 and put them in a scallop-shell or saucer1 and between each layer sprinkle over a few bread crumbs1 pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg2 place small pieces of butter over1 and bake before the fire in a ,dutch oven4 ,put sufficient bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface1 as the oysters should not be seen4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #b;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,stewed ,,oysters4 #bhh4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of oysters1 #a oz4 of butter1 flour1 #a_/c pint of cream2 cayenne and salt to taste2 #a blade of pounded mace4 ,mode4--,scald the oysters in their own liquor1 take them out1 beard them1 and strain the liquor2 put the butter into a stewpan1 dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up1 add the oyster-liquor and mace1 and stir it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon2 when it comes to a boil1 add the cream1 oysters1 and seasoning4 ,let all simmer for #a or #b minutes1 but not longer1 or the oysters would harden4 ,serve on a hot dish1 and garnish with croutons1 or toasted sippets of bread4 ,a small piece of lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor1 and taken out before the cream is added1 will be found an improvement4 ,time4--,altogether #ae minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,,the ,,oyster ,,and ,,the ,,scallop4--,the oyster is described as a bivalve shell-fish1 having the valves generally unequal4 ,the hinge is without teeth1 but furnished with a somewhat oval cavity1 and mostly with lateral transverse grooves4 ,from a similarity in the structure of the hinge1 oysters and scallops have been classified as one tribe2 but they differ very essentially both in their external appearance and their habits4 ,oysters adhere to rocks1 or1 as in two or three species1 to roots of trees on the shore2 while the scallops are always detached1 and usually lurk in the sand4 ,,oyster ,,patties 7an ,entree74 #bhi4 ,,ingredients4--#b dozen oysters1 #b oz4 butter1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream1 a little lemon-juice1 #a blade of pounded mace2 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,scald the oysters in their own liquor1 beard them1 and cut each one into #c pieces4 ,put the butter into a stewpan1 dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up2 add the strained oyster-liquor with the other ingredients2 put in the oysters1 and let them heat gradually1 but not boil fast4 ,make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties1 ,no4 #bgg3 fill with the oyster mixture1 and replace the covers4 ,time4--#b minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the patty-cases1 #as4 #a;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,the ,,oyster ,,fishery4--,the oyster fishery in ,britain is esteemed of so much importance1 that it is regulated by a ,court of ,admiralty4 ,in the month of ,may1 the fishermen are allowed to take the oysters1 in order to separate the spawn from the cultch1 the latter of which is thrown in again1 to preserve the bed for the future4 ,after this month1 it is felony to carry away the cultch1 and otherwise punishable to take any oyster1 between the shells of which1 when closed1 a shilling will rattle4 ,,to ,,keep ,,oysters4 #bij4 ,put them in a tub1 and cover them with salt and water4 ,let them remain for #ab hours1 when they are to be taken out1 and allowed to stand for another #ab hours without water4 ,if left without water every alternate #ab hours1 they will be much better than if constantly kept in it4 ,never put the same water twice to them4 ,,oysters ,,fried ,,in ,,batter4 #bia4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of oysters1 #b eggs1 #a_/b pint of milk1 sufficient flour to make the batter2 pepper and salt to taste2 when liked1 a little nutmeg2 hot lard4 ,mode4--,scald the oysters in their own liquor1 beard them1 and lay them on a cloth1 to drain thoroughly4 ,break the eggs into a basin1 mix the flour with them1 add the milk gradually1 with nutmeg and seasoning1 and put the oysters in the batter4 ,make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan1 put in the oysters1 one at a time2 when done1 take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer1 and dish them on a napkin4 ,fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish1 and then a few bread crumbs should be added to the flour4 ,time4--#e or #f minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #aj;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,,excellence ,,of ,,the ,,english ,,oyster4--,the ,french assert that the ,english oysters1 which are esteemed the best in ,europe1 were originally procured from ,cancalle ,bay1 near ,st4 ,malo2 but they assign no proof for this4 ,it is a fact1 however1 that the oysters eaten in ancient ,rome were nourished in the channel which then parted the ,isle of ,thanet from ,england1 and which has since been filled up1 and converted into meadows4 ,,boiled ,,perch4 #bib4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,scale the fish1 take out the gills and clean it thoroughly2 lay it in boiling water1 salted as above1 and simmer gently for #aj minutes4 ,if the fish is very large1 longer time must be allowed4 ,garnish with parsley1 and serve with plain melted butter1 or ,dutch sauce4 ,perch do not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any other way4 ,time4--,middling-sized perch1 #a_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,november4 ,note4--,tench may be boiled the same way1 and served with the same sauces4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,perch4 ,,the ,,perch4--,this is one of the best1 as it is one of the most common1 of our fresh-water fishes1 and is found in nearly all the lakes and rivers in ,britain and ,ireland1 as well as through the whole of ,europe within the temperate zone4 ,it is extremely voracious1 and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious1 which is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey4 ,the best season to angle for it is from the beginning of ,may to the middle of ,july4 ,large numbers of this fish are bred in the ,hampton ,court and ,bushy ,park ponds1 all of which are well supplied with running water and with plenty of food2 yet they rarely attain a large size4 ,in the ,regent's ,park they are also very numerous2 but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a pound4 ,,fried ,,perch4 #bic4 ,,ingredients4--,egg and bread crumbs1 hot lard4 ,mode4--,scale and clean the fish1 brush it over with egg1 and cover with bread crumbs4 ,have ready some boiling lard2 put the fish in1 and fry a nice brown4 ,serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,november4 ,note4--,fry tench in the same way4 ,,perch ,,stewed ,,with ,,wine4 #bid4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of stock ,no4 #aje and sherry1 #a bay-leaf1 #a clove of garlic1 a small bunch of parsley1 #b cloves1 salt to taste2 thickening of butter and flour1 pepper1 grated nutmeg1 #a_/b teaspoonful of anchovy sauce4 ,mode4--,scale the fish and take out the gills1 and clean them thoroughly2 lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry just to cover them4 ,put in the bay-leaf1 garlic1 parsley1 cloves1 and salt1 and simmer till tender4 ,when done1 take out the fish1 strain the liquor1 add a thickening of butter and flour1 the pepper1 nutmeg1 and the anchovy sauce1 and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced1 when pour over the fish1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,november4 ,,boiled ,,pike4 #bie4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water2 a little vinegar4 ,mode4--,scale and clean the pike1 and fasten the tail in its mouth by means of a skewer4 ,lay it in cold water1 and when it boils1 throw in the salt and vinegar4 ,the time for boiling depends1 of course1 on the size of the fish2 but a middling-sized pike will take about #a_/b an hour4 ,serve with ,dutch or anchovy sauce1 and plain melted butter4 ,time4--,according to size1 #a_/b to #a hour4--,average cost4 ,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pike4 ,,the ,,pike4--,this fish is1 on account of its voracity1 termed the freshwater shark1 and is abundant in most of the ,european lakes1 especially those of the northern parts4 ,it grows to an immense size1 some attaining to the measure of eight feet1 in ,lapland and ,russia4 ,the smaller lakes1 of this country and ,ireland1 vary in the kinds of fish they produce2 some affording trout1 others pike2 and so on4 ,where these happen to be together1 however1 the trout soon becomes extinct4 ,within a short distance of ,castlebar1 says a writer on sports1 there is a small bog-lake called ,derreens4 ,ten years ago it was celebrated for its numerous well-sized trouts4 ,accidentally pike effected a passage into the lake from the ,minola river1 and now the trouts are extinct1 or1 at least1 none of them are caught or seen4 ,previous to the intrusion of the pikes1 half a dozen trouts would be killed in an evening in ,derreens1 whose collective weight often amounted to twenty pounds4 ,as an eating fish1 the pike is in general dry4 ,,baked ,,pike4 #bif4 ,,ingredients4--#a or #b pike1 a nice delicate stuffing 7see ,forcemeats71 #a egg1 bread crumbs1 #a_/d lb4 butter4 ,mode4--,scale the fish1 take out the gills1 wash1 and wipe it thoroughly dry2 stuff it with forcemeat1 sew it up1 and fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a skewer2 brush it over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and baste with butter1 before putting it in the oven1 which must be well heated4 ,when the pike is of a nice brown colour1 cover it with buttered paper1 as the outside would become too dry4 ,if #b are dressed1 a little variety may be made by making one of them green with a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs4 ,serve anchovy or ,dutch sauce1 and plain melted butter with it4 ,time4--,according to size1 #a hour1 more or less4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,pike la gnvese may be stewed in the same manner as salmon la gnvese4 ,,fried ,,plaice4 #big4--;,,ingredients4--,hot lard1 or clarified dripping2 egg and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,this fish is fried in the same manner as soles4 ,wash and wipe them thoroughly dry1 and let them remain in a cloth until it is time to dress them4 ,brush them over with egg1 and cover with bread crumbs mixed with a little flour4 ,fry of a nice brown in hot dripping or lard1 and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon4 ,send them to table with shrimp-sauce and plain melted butter4 ,time4--,about #e minutes4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 each4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,november4 ,sufficient1 #d plaice for #d persons4 ,note4--,plaice may be boiled plain1 and served with melted butter4 ,garnish with parsley and cut lemon4 ,,stewed ,,plaice4 #bih4 ,,ingredients4--#d or #e plaice1 #b onions1 #a_/b oz4 ground ginger1 #a pint of lemon-juice1 #a_/d pint water1 #f eggs2 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the fish into pieces about #b inches wide1 salt them1 and let them remain #a_/d hour4 ,slice and fry the onions a light brown2 put them in a stewpan1 on the top of which put the fish without washing1 and add the ginger1 lemon-juice1 and water4 ,cook slowly for #a_/b hour1 and do not let the fish boil1 or it will break4 ,take it out1 and when the liquor is cool1 add #f well-beaten eggs2 simmer till it thickens1 when pour over the fish1 and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,november4 ,sufficient for #d persons2 according to size4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,plaice4 ,,the ,,plaice4--,this fish is found both in the ,baltic and the ,mediterranean1 and is also abundant on the coast of ,england4 ,it keeps well1 and1 like all ground-fish1 is very tenacious of life4 ,its flesh is inferior to that of the sole1 and1 as it is a low-priced fish1 it is generally bought by the poor4 ,the best brought to the ,london market are called ,dowers plaice1 from their being caught in the ,dowers1 or flats1 between ,hastings and ,folkstone4 ,,to ,,boil ,,prawns ,,or ,,shrimps4 #bii4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,prawns should be very red1 and have no spawn under the tail2 much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked4 ,throw them into boiling water1 salted as above1 and keep them boiling for about #g or #h minutes4 ,shrimps should be done in the same way2 but less time must be allowed4 ,it may easily be known when they are done by their changing colour4 ,care should be taken that they are not over-boiled1 as they then become tasteless and indigestible4 ,time4--,prawns1 about #h minutes2 shrimps1 about #e minutes4 ,average cost1 prawns1 #bs4 per lb42 shrimps1 #f;d4 per pint4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,to ,,dress ,,prawns4 #cjj4 ,cover a dish with a large cup reversed1 and over that lay a small white napkin4 ,arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid1 and garnish with plenty of parsley4 ,,boiled ,,salmon4 #cja4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of salt to each gallon of water1--sufficient water to cover the fish4 ,mode4--,scale and clean the fish1 and be particular that no blood is left inside2 lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it1 adding salt in the above proportion4 ,bring it quickly to a boil1 take off all the scum1 and let it simmer gently till the fish is done1 which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone4 ,experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish2 but it is especially to be remembered1 that it should never be underdressed1 as then nothing is more unwholesome4 ,neither let it remain in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked1 as that would render it insipid1 watery1 and colourless4 ,drain it1 and if not wanted for a few minutes1 keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it4 ,serve on a hot napkin1 garnish with cut lemon and parsley1 and send lobster or shrimp sauce1 and plain melted butter to table with it4 ,a dish of dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish4 ,time4--#h minutes to each lb4 for large thick salmon2 #f minutes for thin fish4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 #c;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,august4 ,sufficient1 #a_/b lb41 or rather less1 for each person4 ,note4--,cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish2 and a little of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable addition4 ,boiled peas are also1 by some connoisseurs1 considered especially adapted to be served with salmon4 ,,to ,,choose ,,salmon4--,to be good1 the belly should be firm and thick1 which may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger4 ,the circumstance of this fish having red gills1 though given as a standing rule in most cookery-books1 as a sign of its goodness1 is not at all to be relied on1 as this quality can be easily given them by art4 ,,salmon ,,and ,,caper ,,sauce4 #cjb4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of salmon1 #a_/d lb4 batter1 #a_/b teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 #a shalot2 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,lay the salmon in a baking-dish1 place pieces of butter over it1 and add the other ingredients1 rubbing a little of the seasoning into the fish2 baste it frequently2 when done1 take it out and drain for a minute or two2 lay it in a dish1 pour caper sauce over it1 and serve4 ,salmon dressed in this way1 with tomato sauce1 is very delicious4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,august4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,the ,,migratory ,,habits ,,of ,,the ,,salmon4--,the instinct with which the salmon revisits its native river1 is one of the most curious circumstances in its natural history4 ,as the swallow returns annually to its nest1 so it returns to the same spot to deposit its ova4 ,this fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved4 ,m4 ,de ,lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail1 and found that1 for three successive seasons1 it returned to the same place4 ,dr4 ,bloch states that gold and silver rings have been attached by eastern princes to salmon1 to prove that a communication existed between the ,persian ,gulf and the ,caspian and ,northern ,seas1 and that the experiment succeeded4 ,,collared ,,salmon4 #cjc4 ,,ingredients4--,a piece of salmon1 say #c lbs41 a high seasoning of salt1 pounded mace1 and pepper2 water and vinegar1 #c bay-leaves4 ,mode4--,split the fish2 scale1 bone1 and wash it thoroughly clean2 wipe it1 and rub in the seasoning inside and out2 roll it up1 and bind firmly2 lay it in a kettle1 cover it with vinegar and water 7#a_/c vinegar1 in proportion to the water72 add the bay-leaves and a good seasoning of salt and whole pepper1 and simmer till done4 ,do not remove the lid4 ,serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce4 ,for preserving the collared fish1 boil up the liquor in which it was cooked1 and add a little more vinegar4 ,pour over when cold4 ,time4--#c_/d hour1 or rather more4 ,,habitat ,,of ,,the ,,salmon4--,the salmon is styled by ,walton the king of fresh-water fish1 and is found distributed over the north of ,europe and ,asia1 from ,britain to ,kamschatka1 but is never found in warm latitudes1 nor has it ever been caught even so far south as the ,mediterranean4 ,it lives in fresh as well as in salt waters1 depositing its spawn in the former1 hundreds of miles from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been known to resort4 ,in #ahei1 great efforts were made to introduce this fish into the ,australian colonies2 and it is believed that the attempt1 after many difficulties1 which were very skilfully overcome1 has been successful4 ,,crimped ,,salmon4 #cjd4 ,salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionable tables1 but must be very fresh1 and cut into slices #b or #c inches thick4 ,lay these in cold salt and water for #a hour2 have ready some boiling water1 salted1 as in recipe ,no4 #cja1 and well skimmed2 put in the fish1 and simmer gently for #a_/d hour1 or rather more2 should it be very thick1 garnish the same as boiled salmon1 and serve with the same sauces4 ,time4--#a_/d hour1 more or less1 according to size4 ,note4--,never use vinegar with salmon1 as it spoils the taste and colour of the fish4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,salmon4 ,,the ,,salmon ,,tribe4--,this is the ,abdominal fish1 forming the fourth of the orders of ,linnaeus4 ,they are distinguished from the other fishes by having two dorsal fins1 of which the hindmost is fleshy and without rays4 ,they have teeth both on the tongue and in the jaws1 whilst the body is covered with round and minutely striated scales4 ,,curried ,,salmon4 #cje4 ,,ingredients4--,any remains of boiled salmon1 #c_/d pint of strong or medium stock 7,no4 #aje71 #a onion1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 #a teaspoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 #a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce1 #a oz4 of butter1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut up the onions into small pieces1 and fry them of a pale brown in the butter2 add all the ingredients but the salmon1 and simmer gently till the onion is tender1 occasionally stirring the contents2 cut the salmon into small square pieces1 carefully take away all skin and bone1 lay it in the stewpan1 and let it gradually heat through2 but do not allow it to boil long4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fish1 #i;d4 ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,salmon4--,at the latter end of the year--some as soon as ,november--salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as they can reach1 in order to deposit their spawn1 which they do in the sand or gravel1 about eighteen inches deep4 ,here it lies buried till the spring1 when1 about the latter end of ,march1 it begins to exclude the young1 which gradually increase to four or five inches in length1 and are then termed smelts or smouts4 ,about the beginning of ,may1 the river seems to be alive with them1 and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without having seen them4 ,a seasonable flood1 however1 comes1 and hurries them to the great deep2 whence1 about the middle of ,june1 they commence their return to the river again4 ,by this time they are twelve or sixteen inches long1 and progressively increase1 both in number and size1 till about the end of ,july1 when they have become large enough to be denominated grilse4 ,early in ,august they become fewer in numbers1 but of greater size1 haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds4 ,this rapidity of growth appears surprising1 and realizes the remark of ,walton1 that the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short a time as a gosling becomes a goose4 ,recent writers have1 however1 thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the salmon4 ,,salmon ,,cutlets4 #cjf4 ,cut the slices #a inch thick1 and season them with pepper and salt2 butter a sheet of white paper1 lay each slice on a separate piece1 with their ends twisted2 broil gently over a clear fire1 and serve with anchovy or caper sauce4 ,when higher seasoning is required1 add a few chopped herbs and a little spice4 ,time4--#e to #aj minutes4 ,,salmon ,a ,,la ,,genevese4 #cjg4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of salmon1 #b chopped shalots1 a little parsley1 a small bunch of herbs1 #b bay-leaves1 #b carrots1 pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 #d tablespoonfuls of ,madeira1 #a_/b pint of white stock 7,no4 #ajg71 thickening of butter and flour1 #a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 the juice of #a lemon1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter1 and put in the shalots1 herbs1 bay-leaves1 carrots1 mace1 and seasoning2 stir them for #aj minutes over a clear fire1 and add the ,madeira or sherry2 simmer gently for #a_/b hour1 and strain through a sieve over the fish1 which stew in this gravy4 ,as soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked1 take away all the liquor1 except a little to keep the salmon moist1 and put it into another stewpan2 add the stock1 thicken with butter and flour1 and put in the anchovies1 lemon-juice1 cayenne1 and salt2 lay the salmon on a hot dish1 pour over it part of the sauce1 and serve the remainder in a tureen4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,pickled ,,salmon4 #cjh4 ,,ingredients4--,salmon1 #a_/b oz4 of whole pepper1 #a_/b oz4 of whole allspice1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #b bay-leaves1 equal quantities of vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled4 ,mode4--,after the fish comes from table1 lay it in a nice dish with a cover to it1 as it should be excluded from the air1 and take away the bone2 boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for #aj minutes1 and let it stand to get cold2 pour it over the salmon1 and in #ab hours this will be fit for the table4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,,to ,,cure ,,salmon4--,this process consists in splitting the fish1 rubbing it with salt1 and then putting it into pickle in tubs provided for the purpose4 ,here it is kept for about six weeks1 when it is taken out1 pressed and packed in casks1 with layers of salt4 ,,potted ,,salmon4 #cji4 ,,ingredients4--,salmon2 pounded mace1 cloves1 and pepper to taste2 #c bay-leaves1 #a_/d lb4 butter4 ,mode4--,skin the salmon1 and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth 7water would spoil it72 cut it into square pieces1 which rub with salt2 let them remain till thoroughly drained1 then lay them in a dish with the other ingredients1 and bake4 ,when quite done1 drain them from the gravy1 press into pots for use1 and1 when cold1 pour over it clarified butter4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,,an ,,aversion ,,in ,,the ,,salmon4--,the salmon is said to have an aversion to anything red2 hence1 fishermen engaged in catching it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour4 ,pontoppidan also says1 that it has an abhorrence of carrion1 and if any happens to be thrown into the places it haunts1 it immediately forsakes them4 ,the remedy adopted for this in ,norway1 is to throw into the polluted water a lighted torch4 ,as food1 salmon1 when in perfection1 is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our fish4 ,,baked ,,sea-,,bream4 #caj4 ,,ingredients4--#a bream4 ,seasoning to taste of salt1 pepper1 and cayenne2 #a_/d lb4 of butter4 ,mode4--,well wash the bream1 but do not remove the scales1 and wipe away all moisture with a nice dry cloth4 ,season it inside and out with salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 and lay it in a baking-dish4 ,place the butter1 in small pieces1 upon the fish1 and bake for rather more than #a_/b an hour4 ,to stuff this fish before baking1 will be found a great improvement4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b an hour4 ,seasonable in summer4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sea-,,bream4 ,note4--,this fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire1 and served with a good brown gravy or white sauce1 or it may be stewed in wine4 ,,the ,,sea-,,bream4--,this is an abundant fish in ,cornwall1 and it is frequently found in the fish-market of ,hastings during the summer months1 but it is not in much esteem4 ,,mr4 ,,yarrell',s ,,recipe4 ,when thoroughly cleansed1 the fish should be wiped dry1 but none of the scales should be taken off4 ,in this state it should be broiled1 turning it often1 and if the skin cracks1 flour it a little to keep the outer case entire4 ,when on table1 the whole skin and scales turn off without difficulty1 and the muscle beneath1 saturated in its own natural juices1 which the outside covering has retained1 will be of good flavour4 ,,to ,,dress ,,shad4 #caa4 ,,ingredients4--#a shad1 oil1 pepper1 and salt4 ,mode4--,scale1 empty and wash the fish carefully1 and make two or three incisions across the back4 ,season it with pepper and salt1 and let it remain in oil for #a_/b hour4 ,broil it on both sides over a clear fire1 and serve with caper sauce4 ,this fish is much esteemed by the ,french1 and by them is considered excellent4 ,time4--,nearly #a hour4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,june4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,shad4 ,,the ,,shad4--,this is a salt-water fish1 but is held in little esteem4 ,it enters our rivers to spawn in ,may1 and great numbers of them are taken opposite the ,isle of ,dogs1 in the ,thames4 ,,potted ,,shrimps4 #cab4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of shelled shrimps1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a blade of pounded mace1 cayenne to taste2 when liked1 a little nutmeg4 ,mode4--,have ready a pint of picked shrimps1 and put them1 with the other ingredients1 into a stewpan2 let them heat gradually in the butter1 but do not let it boil4 ,pour into small pots1 and when cold1 cover with melted butter1 and carefully exclude the air4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to soak in the butter4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #c;d4 ,,buttered ,,prawns ,,or ,,shrimps4 #cac4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of picked prawns or shrimps1 #c_/d pint of stock ,no4 #ajd1 thickening of butter and flour2 salt1 cayenne1 and nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,pick the prawns or shrimps1 and put them in a stewpan with the stock2 add a thickening of butter and flour2 season1 and simmer gently for #c minutes4 ,serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted sippets4 ,cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy4 ,time4--#c minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #d;d4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,shrimp4 ,,the ,,shrimp4--,this shell-fish is smaller than the prawn1 and is greatly relished in ,london as a delicacy4 ,it inhabits most of the sandy shores of ,europe1 and the ,isle of ,wight is especially famous for them4 ,,boiled ,,skate4 #cad4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse and skin the skate1 lay it in a fish-kettle1 with sufficient water to cover it1 salted in the above proportion4 ,let it simmer very gently till done2 then dish it on a hot napkin1 and serve with shrimp1 lobster1 or caper sauce4 ,time4--,according to size1 from #a_/b to #a hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,april4 ,,crimped ,,skate4 #cae4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/h lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,clean1 skin1 and cut the fish into slices1 which roll and tie round with string4 ,have ready some water highly salted1 put in the fish1 and boil till it is done4 ,drain well1 remove the string1 dish on a hot napkin1 and serve with the same sauces as above4 ,skate should never be eaten out of season1 as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other diseases4 ,it may be dished without a napkin1 and the sauce poured over4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,april4 ,,to ,,choose ,,skate4--,this fish should be chosen for its firmness1 breadth1 and thickness1 and should have a creamy appearance4 ,when crimped1 it should not be kept longer than a day or two1 as all kinds of crimped fish soon become sour4 ,illustration3 ,,thornback ,,skate4 ,,the ,,skate4--,this is one of the ray tribe1 and is extremely abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of ,england4 ,the flesh is white1 thick1 and nourishing2 but1 we suppose1 from its being so plentiful1 it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of its nutritive properties1 and the ease with which it is digested4 ,it is much improved by crimping2 in which state it is usually sold in ,london4 ,the ,,thornback differs from the true skate by having large spines in its back1 of which the other is destitute4 ,it is taken in great abundance during the spring and summer months1 but its flesh is not so good as it is in ,november4 ,it is1 in regard to quality1 inferior to that of the true skate4 ,,skate ,,with ,,caper ,,sauce 7a la ,francaise7 #caf4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c slices of skate1 #a_/b pint of vinegar1 #b oz4 of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper1 #a sliced onion1 a small bunch of parsley1 #b bay-leaves1 #b or #c sprigs of thyme1 sufficient water to cover the fish4 ,mode4--,put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients1 and simmer the skate in them till tender4 ,when it is done1 skin it neatly1 and pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling4 ,drain it1 put it on a hot dish1 pour over it caper sauce1 and send some of the latter to table in a tureen4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,april4 ,note4--,skate may also be served with onion sauce1 or parsley and butter4 ,,small ,,skate ,,fried4 #cag4 ,,ingredients4--,skate1 sufficient vinegar to cover them1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a sliced onion1 a small bunch of parsley1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 hot dripping4 ,mode4--,cleanse the skate1 lay them in a dish1 with sufficient vinegar to cover them2 add the salt1 pepper1 onion1 parsley1 and lemon-juice1 and let the fish remain in this pickle for #a-a_/b hour4 ,then drain them well1 flour them1 and fry of a nice brown1 in hot dripping4 ,they may be served either with or without sauce4 ,skate is not good if dressed too fresh1 unless it is crimped2 it should1 therefore1 be kept for a day1 but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,april4 ,,other ,,species ,,of ,,skate4--,besides the true skate1 there are several other species found in our seas4 ,these are known as the white skate1 the long-nosed skate1 and the ,homelyn ray1 which are of inferior quality1 though often crimped1 and sold for true skate4 ,,to ,,bake ,,smelts4 #cah4 ,,ingredients4--#ab smelts1 bread crumbs1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #b blades of pounded mace2 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,wash1 and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth1 and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish4 ,cover them with fine bread crumbs1 and place little pieces of butter all over them4 ,season and bake for #ae minutes4 ,just before serving1 add a squeeze of lemon-juice1 and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per dozen4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,may4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,,to ,,choose ,,smelts4--,when good1 this fish is of a fine silvery appearance1 and when alive1 their backs are of a dark brown shade1 which1 after death1 fades to a light fawn4 ,they ought to have a refreshing fragrance1 resembling that of a cucumber4 ,,the ,,odour ,,of ,,the ,,smelt4--,this peculiarity in the smelt has been compared1 by some1 to the fragrance of a cucumber1 and by others1 to that of a violet4 ,it is a very elegant fish1 and formerly abounded in the ,thames4 ,the ,atharine1 or sand smelt1 is sometimes sold for the true one2 but it is an inferior fish1 being drier in the quality of its flesh4 ,on the south coast of ,england1 where the true smelt is rare1 it is plentiful4 ,,to ,,fry ,,smelts4 #cai4 ,,ingredients4--,egg and bread crumbs1 a little flour2 boiling lard4 ,mode4--,smelts should be very fresh1 and not washed more than is necessary to clean them4 ,dry them in a cloth1 lightly flour1 dip them in egg1 and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs1 and put them into boiling lard4 ,fry of a nice pale brown1 and be careful not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs1 or their beauty will be spoiled4 ,dry them before the fire on a drainer1 and servo with plain melted butter4 ,this fish is often used as a garnishing4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per dozen4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,may4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,smelt4 ,,the ,,smelt4--,this is a delicate little fish1 and is in high esteem4 ,mr4 ,yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety confined to the western and eastern coasts of ,britain4 ,it very rarely ventures far from the shore1 and is plentiful in ,november1 ,december1 and ,january4 ,,baked ,,soles4 #cbj4 ,,ingredients4--#b soles1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 egg1 and bread crumbs1 minced parsley1 #a glass of sherry1 lemon-juice2 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,clean1 skin1 and well wash the fish1 and dry them thoroughly in a cloth4 ,brush them over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley1 lay them in a large flat baking-dish1 white side uppermost2 or if it will not hold the two soles1 they may each be laid on a dish by itself2 but they must not be put one on the top of the other4 ,melt the butter1 and pour it over the whole1 and bake for #bj minutes4 ,take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish1 add the wine1 lemon-juice1 and seasoning1 give it one boil1 skim1 pour it under the fish1 and serve4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,to ,,choose ,,soles4--,this fish should be both thick and firm4 ,if the skin is difficult to be taken off1 and the flesh looks grey1 it is good4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sole4 ,,the ,,sole4--,this ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence among our flat fish4 ,it is abundant on the ,british coasts1 but those of the western shores are much superior in size to those taken on the northern4 ,the finest are caught in ,torbay1 and frequently weigh #h or #aj lbs4 per pair4 ,its flesh being firm1 white1 and delicate1 is greatly esteemed4 ,,boiled ,,soles4 #cba4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse and wash the fish carefully1 cut off the fins1 but do not skin it4 ,lay it in a fish-kettle1 with sufficient cold water to cover it1 salted in the above proportion4 ,let it gradually come to a boil1 and keep it simmering for a few minutes1 according to the size of the fish4 ,dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it1 and garnish with parsley and cut lemon4 ,shrimp1 or lobster sauce1 and plain melted butter1 are usually sent to table with this dish4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #g minutes for a middling-sized sole4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient1--#a middling-sized sole for #b persons4 ,,sole ,,or ,,cod ,,pie4 #cbb4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold boiled sole or cod1 seasoning to taste of pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace1 #a dozen oysters to each lb4 of fish1 #c tablespoonfuls of white stock1 #a teacupful of cream thickened with flour1 puff paste4 ,mode4--,clear the fish from the bones1 lay it in a pie-dish1 and between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning2 add the stock1 and1 when liked1 a small quantity of butter2 cover with puff paste1 and bake for #a_/b hour4 ,boil the cream with sufficient flour to thicken it2 pour in the pie1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #aj;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,soles ,,with ,,cream ,,sauce4 #cbc4 ,,ingredients4--#b soles2 salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace to taste2 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 salt and water1 #a_/b pint of cream4 ,mode4--,skin1 wash1 and fillet the soles1 and divide each fillet in #b pieces2 lay them in cold salt and water1 which bring gradually to a boil4 ,when the water boils1 take out the fish1 lay it in a delicately clean stewpan1 and cover with the cream4 ,add the seasoning1 simmer very gently for ten minutes1 and1 just before serving1 put in the lemon-juice4 ,the fillets may be rolled1 and secured by means of a skewer2 but this is not so economical a way of dressing them1 as double the quantity of cream is required4 ,time4--#aj minutes in the cream4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,this will be found a most delicate and delicious dish4 ,,the ,,sole ,a ,,favourite ,,with ,,the ,,ancient ,,greeks4--,this fish was much sought after by the ancient ,greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities4 ,the brill1 the flounder1 the diamond and ,dutch plaice1 which1 with the sole1 were known under the general name of passeres1 were all equally esteemed1 and had generally the same qualities attributed to them4 ,,filleted ,,soles ,a ,l',,italienne4 #cbd4 ,,ingredients4--#b soles2 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg to taste2 egg and bread crumbs1 butter1 the juice of #a lemon4 ,mode4--,skin1 and carefully wash the soles1 separate the meat from the bone1 and divide each fillet in two pieces4 ,brush them over with white of egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning1 and put them in a baking-dish4 ,place small pieces of butter over the whole1 and bake for #a_/b hour4 ,when they are nearly done1 squeeze the juice of a lemon over them1 and serve on a dish1 with ,italian sauce 7see ,sauces7 poured over4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #f persons4 ,,whiting may be dressed in the same manner1 and will be found very delicious4 ,,the ,,flavour ,,of ,,the ,,sole4--,this1 as a matter of course1 greatly depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the animal feeds4 ,its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish4 ,its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds2 for if this be white1 then the sole is called the white1 or lemon sole2 but if the bottom be muddy1 then it is called the black sole4 ,small-sized soles1 caught in shallow water on the coasts1 are the best in flavour4 ,,fricasseed ,,soles4 #cbe4 ,,ingredients4--#b middling-sized soles1 #a small one1 #a_/b teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel1 #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 a little grated bread2 salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg to taste2 #a egg1 #b oz4 butter1 #a_/b pint of good gravy1 #b tablespoonfuls of port wine1 cayenne and lemon-juice to taste4 ,mode4--,fry the soles of a nice brown1 as directed in recipe ,no4 #cbg1 and drain them well from fat4 ,take all the meat from the small sole1 chop it fine1 and mix with it the lemon-peel1 parsley1 bread1 and seasoning2 work altogether1 with the yolk of an egg and the butter2 make this into small balls1 and fry them4 ,thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour1 add the port wine1 cayenne1 and lemon-juice2 lay in the #b soles and balls2 let them simmer gently for #f minutes2 serve hot1 and garnish with cut lemon4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the soles4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #cs4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,how ,,soles ,,are ,,caught4--,the instrument usually employed is a trawl net1 which is shaped like a pocket1 of from sixty to eighty feet long1 and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty feet1 and three deep4 ,this is dragged along the ground by the vessel1 and on the art of the fisherman in its employment1 in a great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches4 ,if1 for example1 he drags the net too quickly1 all that are caught are swept rapidly to the end of the net1 where they are smothered1 and sometimes destroyed4 ,a medium has to be observed1 in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net1 and as many as possible preserved alive in it4 ,,fried ,,filleted ,,soles4 #cbf4 ,soles for filleting should be large1 as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones1 and there is less waste4 ,skin and wash the fish1 and raise the meat carefully from the bones1 and divide it into nice handsome pieces4 ,the more usual way is to roll the fillets1 after dividing each one in two pieces1 and either bind them round with twine1 or run a small skewer through them4 ,brush over with egg1 and cover with bread crumbs2 fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe1 and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon4 ,when a pretty dish is desired1 this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles1 as they look much better than when fried whole4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,a47 ,instead of rolling the fillets1 they may be cut into square pieces1 and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient1--#b large soles for #f persons4 ,,fried ,,soles4 #cbg4 ,,ingredients4--#b middling-sized soles1 hot lard or clarified dripping1 egg1 and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,skin and carefully wash the soles1 and cut off the fins1 wipe them very dry1 and let them remain in the cloth until it is time to dress them4 ,have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg2 dredge the soles with a little flour1 brush them over with egg1 and cover with bread crumbs4 ,put them in a deep pan1 with plenty of clarified dripping or lard 7when the expense is not objected to1 oil is still better7 heated1 so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden4 ,when they are sufficiently cooked on one side1 turn them carefully1 and brown them on the other3 they may be considered ready when a thick smoke rises4 ,lift them out carefully1 and lay them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper1 to absorb the fat4 ,particular attention should be paid to this1 as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy fish3 this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time1 and allowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp1 and free from greasy moisture4 ,dish them on a hot napkin1 garnish with cut lemon and fried parsley1 and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter4 ,time4--#aj minutes for large soles2 less time for small ones4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #bs4 per pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,soles ,,with ,,mushrooms4 #cbh4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #a pint of water1 #a oz4 butter1 #a oz4 salt1 a little lemon-juice1 #b middling-sized soles4 ,mode4--,cleanse the soles1 but do not skin them1 and lay them in a fish-kettle1 with the milk1 water1 butter1 salt1 and lemon-juice4 ,bring them gradually to boil1 and let them simmer very gently till done1 which will be in about #g minutes4 ,take them up1 drain them well on a cloth1 put them on a hot dish1 and pour over them a good mushroom sauce4 7,see ,sauces47 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #g minutes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,,sprats4 #cbi4 ,sprats should be cooked very fresh1 which can be ascertained by their bright and sparkling eyes4 ,wipe them dry2 fasten them in rows by a skewer run through the eyes2 dredge with flour1 and broil them on a gridiron over a nice clear fire4 ,the gridiron should be rubbed with suet4 ,serve very hot4 ,time1--#c or #d minutes4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,to ,,choose ,,sprats4--,choose these from their silvery appearance1 as the brighter they are1 so are they the fresher4 ,,sprats ,,fried ,,in ,,batter4 #ccj4 ,,ingredients4--#b eggs1 flour1 bread crumbs2 seasoning of salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,wipe the sprats1 and dip them in a batter made of the above ingredients4 ,fry of a nice brown1 serve very hot1 and garnish with fried parsley4 ,sprats may be baked like herrings4 7,see ,no4 #bfh47 ,,dried ,,sprats4 #cca4 ,dried sprats should be put into a basin1 and boiling water poured over them2 they may then be skinned and served1 and this will be found a much better way than boiling them4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sprat4 ,,the ,,sprat4--,this migratory fish1 is rarely found longer than four or five inches1 and visits the shores of ,britain after the herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from them4 ,on the coasts of ,suffolk1 ,essex1 and ,kent1 they are very abundant1 and from #djj to #ejj boats are employed in catching them during the winter season4 ,besides plentifully supplying the ,london market1 they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to farmers for manuring purposes4 ,they enter the ,thames about the beginning of ,november1 and leave it in ,march4 ,at ,yarmouth and ,gravesend they are cured like red herrings4 ,,baked ,,sturgeon4 #ccb4 ,,ingredients4--#a small sturgeon1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a small bunch of herbs1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a pint of white wine4 ,mode1--,cleanse the fish thoroughly1 skin it1 and split it along the belly without separating it2 have ready a large baking-dish1 in which lay the fish1 sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced1 and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine4 ,place the butter in small pieces over the whole of the fish1 put it in the oven1 and baste frequently2 brown it nicely1 and serve with its own gravy4 ,time4--,nearly #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sturgeon4 ,,the ,,sturgeon4--,this fish commences the sixth of ,linnaean order1 and all the species are large1 seldom measuring1 when full-grown1 less than three or four feet in length4 ,its flesh is reckoned extremely delicious1 and1 in the time of the emperor ,severus1 was so highly valued by the ancients1 that it was brought to table by servants crowned with coronets1 and preceded by a band of music4 ,it is an inhabitant of the ,baltic1 the ,mediterranean1 the ,caspian1 and the ,black ,sea1 and of the ,danube1 the ,volga1 the ,don1 and other large rivers4 ,it is abundant in the rivers of ,north ,america1 and is occasionally taken in the ,thames1 as well as in the ,eske and the ,eden4 ,it is one of those fishes considered as royal property4 ,it is from its roe that caviare1 a favourite food of the ,russians1 is prepared4 ,its flesh is delicate1 firm1 and white1 but is rare in the ,london market1 where it sells for #as4 or #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,,the ,,sterlet is a smaller species of sturgeon1 found in the ,caspian ,sea and some ,russian rivers4 ,it also is greatly prized on account of the delicacy of its flesh4 ,,roast ,,sturgeon4 #ccc4 ,,ingredients4--,veal stuffing1 buttered paper1 the tail-end of a sturgeon4 ,mode4--,cleanse the fish1 bone and skin it2 make a nice veal stuffing 7see ,forcemeats71 and fill it with the part where the bones came from2 roll it in buttered paper1 bind it up firmly with tape1 like a fillet of veal1 and roast it in a ,dutch oven before a clear fire4 ,serve with good brown gravy1 or plain melted butter4 ,time4--,about #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,note4--,sturgeon may be plain-boiled1 and served with ,dutch sauce4 ,the fish is very firm1 and requires long boiling4 ,,estimate ,,of ,,the ,,sturgeon ,,by ,,the ,,ancients4--,by the ancients1 the flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the immortals4 ,the poet ,martial passes a high eulogium upon it1 and assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the ,palatine ,mount4 ,if we may credit a modern traveller in ,china1 the people of that country generally entirely abstain from it1 and the sovereign of the ,celestial ,empire confines it to his own kitchen1 or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest favourites4 ,,matelot ,,of ,,tench4 #ccd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #a_/b pint of port wine1 #a dozen button onions1 a few mushrooms1 a faggot of herbs1 #b blades of mace1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 thyme1 #a shalot1 #b anchovies1 #a teacupful of stock ,no4 #aje1 flour1 #a dozen oysters1 the juice of #a_/b lemon2 the number of tench1 according to size4 ,mode4--,scale and clean the tench1 cut them into pieces1 and lay them in a stewpan2 add the stock1 wine1 onions1 mushrooms1 herbs1 and mace1 and simmer gently for #a_/b hour4 ,put into another stewpan all the remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice1 and boil slowly for #aj minutes1 when add the strained liquor from the tench1 and keep stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced4 ,rub it through a sieve1 pour it over the tench with the oysters1 which must be previously scalded in their own liquor1 squeeze in the lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,garnish with croutons4 ,time4 #c_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,june4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,tench4 ,,the ,,tench4--,this fish is generally found in foul and weedy waters1 and in such places as are well supplied with rushes4 ,they thrive best in standing waters1 and are more numerous in pools and ponds than in rivers4 ,those taken in the latter1 however1 are preferable for the table4 ,it does not often exceed four or five pounds in weight1 and is in ,england esteemed as a delicious and wholesome food4 ,as1 however1 they are sometimes found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid1 their flavour1 if cooked immediately on being caught1 is often very unpleasant2 but if they are transferred into clear water1 they soon recover from the obnoxious taint4 ,,tench ,,stewed ,,with ,,wine4 #cce4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #a_/b pint of ,madeira or sherry1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a bay-leaf1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,clean and crimp the tench2 carefully lay it in a stewpan with the stock1 wine1 salt and pepper1 and bay-leaf2 let it stew gently for #a_/b hour2 then take it out1 put it on a dish1 and keep hot4 ,strain the liquor1 and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together1 and stew for #e minutes4 ,if not perfectly smooth1 squeeze it through a tammy1 add a very little cayenne1 and pour over the fish4 ,garnish with balls of veal forcemeat4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,june4 ,a ,,singular ,,quality ,,in ,,the ,,tench4--,it is said that the tench is possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes1 that even the voracious pike spares it on this account4 ,the pike1 fell tyrant of the liquid plain1 ,with ravenous waste devours his fellow train2 ,yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined1 ,the tench he spares1 a medicinal kind2 ,for when by wounds distress'd1 or sore disease1 ,he courts the salutary fish for ease2 ,close to his scales the kind physician glides1 ,and sweats a healing balsam from his sides4 ,in our estimation1 however1 this self-denial in the pike may be attributed to a less poetical cause2 namely1 from the mud-loving disposition of the tench1 it is enabled to keep itself so completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts1 that it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour4 ,,stewed ,,trout4 #ccf4 ,,ingredients4--#b middling-sized trout1 #a_/b onion cut in thin slices1 a little parsley1 #b cloves1 #a blade of mace1 #b bay-leaves1 a little thyme1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a pint of medium stock ,no4 #aje1 #a glass of port wine1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,wash the fish very clean1 and wipe it quite dry4 ,lay it in a stewpan1 with all the ingredients but the butter and flour1 and simmer gently for #a_/b hour1 or rather more1 should not the fish be quite done4 ,take it out1 strain the gravy1 add the thickening1 and stir it over a sharp fire for #e minutes2 pour it over the trout1 and serve4 ,time4--,according to size1 #a_/b hour or more4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,september1 and fatter from the middle to the end of ,august than at any other time4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce1 baked in buttered paper1 or fried whole like smelts4 ,trout dressed a la ,gnvese is extremely delicate2 for this proceed the same as with salmon1 ,no4 #cjg4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,trout4 ,,the ,,trout4--,this fish1 though esteemed by the moderns for its delicacy1 was little regarded by the ancients4 ,although it abounded in the lakes of the ,roman empire1 it is generally mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its colours4 ,about the end of ,september1 they quit the deep water to which they had retired during the hot weather1 for the purpose of spawning4 ,this they always do on a gravelly bottom1 or where gravel and sand are mixed among stones1 towards the end or by the sides of streams4 ,at this period they become black about the head and body1 and become soft and unwholesome4 ,they are never good when they are large with roe2 but there are in all trout rivers some barren female fish1 which continue good throughout the winter4 ,in the common trout1 the stomach is uncommonly strong and muscular1 shell-fish forming a portion of the food of the animal2 and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones in order to assist in comminuting it4 ,,boiled ,,turbot4 #ccg4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode--,choose a middling-sized turbot2 for they are invariably the most valuable3 if very large1 the meat will be tough and thready4 ,three or four hours before dressing1 soak the fish in salt and water to take off the slime2 then thoroughly cleanse it1 and with a knife make an incision down the middle of the back1 to prevent the skin of the belly from cracking4 ,rub it over with lemon1 and be particular not to cut off the fins4 ,lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle1 with sufficient cold water to cover it1 and salt in the above proportion4 ,let it gradually come to a boil1 and skim very carefully2 keep it gently simmering1 and on no account let it boil fast1 as the fish would have a very unsightly appearance4 ,when the meat separates easily from the bone1 it is done2 then take it out1 let it drain well1 and dish it on a hot napkin4 ,rub a little lobster spawn through a sieve1 sprinkle it over the fish1 and garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon4 ,lobster or shrimp sauce1 and plain melted butter1 should be sent to table with it4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,e47 ,time4--,after the water boils1 about #a_/b hour for a large turbot2 middling size1 about #bj minutes4 ,average cost1--large turbot1 from #ajs4 to #abs42 middling size1 from #abs4 to #aes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient1 #a middling-sized turbot for #h persons4 ,note4--,an amusing anecdote is related1 by ,miss ,edgeworth1 of a bishop1 who1 descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot1 and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins1 immediately commenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers4 ,this dignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages4 ,,garnish ,,for ,,turbot ,,or ,,other ,,large ,,fish4 #cch4 ,take the crumb of a stale loaf1 cut it into small pyramids with flat tops1 and on the top of each pyramid1 put rather more than a tablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth4 ,over this1 sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour4 ,arrange these on the napkin round the fish1 one green and one brown alternately4 ,,to ,,choose ,,turbot4--,see that it is thick1 and of a yellowish white2 for if of a bluish tint1 it is not good4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,turbot4 ,,the ,,turbot4--,this is the most esteemed of all our flat fish4 ,the northern parts of the ,english coast1 and some places off the coast of ,holland1 produce turbot in great abundance1 and in greater excellence than any other parts of the world4 ,the ,london market is chiefly supplied by ,dutch fishermen1 who bring to it nearly #ij1jjj a year4 ,the flesh is firm1 white1 rich1 and gelatinous1 and is the better for being kept a day or two previous to cooking it4 ,in many parts of the country1 turbot and halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other4 ,they are1 however1 perfectly distinct2 the upper parts of the former being marked with large1 unequal1 and obtuse tubercles1 while those of the other are quite smooth1 and covered with oblong soft scales1 which firmly adhere to the body4 ,illustration3 ,,turbot-,,kettle4 ,,fish-,,kettles are made in an oblong form1 and have two handles1 with a movable bottom1 pierced full of holes1 on which the fish is laid1 and on which it may be lifted from the water1 by means of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom4 ,this is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish1 as it would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan4 ,in the list of ,messrs4 ,richard and ,john ,slack 7see #ga71 the price of two of these is set down at #ajs4 ,the turbot-kettle1 as will be seen by our cut1 is made differently from ordinary fish-kettles1 it being less deep1 whilst it is wider1 and more pointed at the sides2 thus exactly answering to the shape of the fish which it is intended should be boiled in it4 ,it may be obtained from the same manufacturers1 and its price is #a4 ,,baked ,,fillets ,,of ,,turbot4 #cci4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold turbot1 lobster sauce left from the preceding day1 egg1 and bread crumbs2 cayenne and salt to taste2 minced parsley1 nutmeg1 lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,after having cleared the fish from all skin and bone1 divide it into square pieces of an equal size2 brush them over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning4 ,lay the fillets in a baking-dish1 with sufficient butter to baste with4 ,bake for #a_/d hour1 and do not forget to keep them well moistened with the butter4 ,put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster sauce2 make it hot1 and pour over the fish1 which must be well drained from the butter4 ,garnish with parsley and cut lemon4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be found much nicer than putting the fish again in water4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,turbot ,a ,l',,italienne4 #cdj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold turbot1 ,italian sauce4 7,see ,sauces47 ,mode4--,clear the fish carefully from the bone1 and take away all skin1 which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce4 ,make the sauce hot1 lay in the fish to warm through1 but do not let it boil4 ,garnish with croutons4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,the ,,ancient ,,romans' ,,estimate ,,of ,,turbot4--,as this luxurious people compared soles to partridges1 and sturgeons to peacocks1 so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant4 ,in the time of ,domitian1 it is said one was taken of such dimensions as to require1 in the imperial kitchen1 a new stove to be erected1 and a new dish to be made for it1 in order that it might be cooked and served whole3 not even imperial ,rome could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous animal4 ,where it was caught1 we are not aware2 but the turbot of the ,adriatic ,sea held a high rank in the ,eternal ,city4 ,,turbot ,a ,,la ,,creme4 #cda4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold turbot4 ,for sauce1 #b oz4 of butter1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream2 salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace to taste4 ,mode4--,clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot1 which should be done when it comes from table1 as it causes less waste when trimmed hot4 ,cut the flesh into nice square pieces1 as equally as possible2 put into a stewpan the butter1 let it melt1 and add the cream and seasoning2 let it just simmer for one minute1 but not boil4 ,lay in the fish to warm1 and serve it garnished with croutons or a paste border4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way1 and the above mixture may be served in a vol-au-vent4 ,,turbot ,,au ,,gratin4 #cdb4 ,,ingredients4--,remains of cold turbot1 bchamel 7see ,sauces71 bread crumbs1 butter4 ,mode4--,cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice1 carefully freeing it from all skin and bone4 ,put them into a stewpan1 and moisten with #d or #e tablespoonfuls of bchamel4 ,let it get thoroughly hot1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,spread the mixture on a dish1 cover with finely-grated bread crumbs1 and place small pieces of butter over the top4 ,brown it in the oven1 or with a salamander4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,whiting4 #cdc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of salt to each gallon of water4 ,mode4--,cleanse the fish1 but do not skin them2 lay them in a fish-kettle1 with sufficient cold water to cover them1 and salt in the above proportion4 ,bring them gradually to a boil1 and simmer gently for about #e minutes1 or rather more should the fish be very large4 ,dish them on a hot napkin1 and garnish with tufts of parsley4 ,serve with anchovy or caper sauce1 and plain melted butter4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 #e minutes4 ,average cost for small whitings1 #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient1 #a small whiting for each person4 ,to ,,choose ,,whiting4--,choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery hue of its appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,whiting4 ,the ,whiting4--,this fish forms a light1 tender1 and delicate food1 easy of digestion4 ,it appears in our seas in the spring1 within three miles of the shores1 where it arrives in large shoals to deposit its spawn4 ,it is caught by line1 and is usually between ten and twelve inches long1 and seldom exceeding a pound and a half in weight4 ,on the edge of the ,dogger ,bank1 however1 it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to seven or eight pounds4 ,when less than six inches long1 it is not allowed to be caught4 ,,broiled ,,whiting4 #cdd4 ,,ingredients4--,salt and water1 flour4 ,mode4--,wash the whiting in salt and water1 wipe them thoroughly1 and let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture4 ,flour them well1 and broil over a very clear fire4 ,serve with matre d'htel sauce1 or plain melted butter 7see ,sauces74 ,be careful to preserve the liver1 as by some it is considered very delicate4 ,time4--#e minutes for a small whiting4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient1 #a small whiting for each person4 ,buckhorn4--,whitings caught in ,cornwall are salted and dried1 and in winter taken to the markets1 and sold under the singular name of ,buckhorn4 ,,fried ,,whiting4 #cde4 ,,ingredients4--,egg and bread crumbs1 a little flour1 hot lard or clarified dripping4 ,mode4--,take off the skin1 clean1 and thoroughly wipe the fish free from all moisture1 as this is most essential1 in order that the egg and bread crumbs may properly adhere4 ,fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a small skewer1 brush the fish over with egg1 dredge with a little flour1 and cover with bread crumbs4 ,fry them in hot lard or clarified dripping of a nice colour1 and serve them on a napkin1 garnished with fried parsley4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,d47 ,send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter4 ,time4--,about #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient1 #a small whiting for each person4 ,note4--,large whitings may be filleted1 rolled1 and served as fried filleted soles 7see ,coloured ,plato ,a74 ,small fried whitings are frequently used for garnishing large boiled fish1 such as turbot1 cod1 etc4 ,,whiting ,,au ,,gratin1 or ,,baked ,,whiting4 #cdf4 ,,ingredients4--#d whiting1 butter1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable2 pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg to taste2 butter1 #b glasses of sherry or ,madeira1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter1 and over it1 strew some minced parsley and mushrooms4 ,scale1 empty1 and wash the whitings1 and wipe them thoroughly dry1 carefully preserving the livers4 ,lay them in the dish1 sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning1 adding a little grated nutmeg1 and also a little more minced parsley and mushrooms4 ,place small pieces of butter over the whiting1 moisten with the wine1 and bake for #bj minutes in a hot oven4 ,if there should be too much sauce1 reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes1 and pour under the fish4 ,serve with a cut lemon1 and no other sauce4 ,time4---#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient4--,this quantity for #d or #e persons4 ,,whiting ,,aux ,,fine ,,herbes4 #cdg4 ,,ingredients4-#a bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine2 butter4 ,mode4--,clean and skin the fish1 fasten the tails in the mouths2 and lay them in a baking-dish4 ,mince the herbs very fine1 strew them over the fish1 and place small pieces of butter over2 cover with another dish1 and let them simmer in a ,dutch oven for #a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,turn the fish once or twice1 and serve with the sauce poured over4 ,time4--#a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,october to ,march4 ,sufficient1 #a small whiting for each person4 ,,the ,,whiting ,,pout1 ,,and ,,pollack4--,about the mouth of the ,thames1 and generally all round the ,english coasts1 as well as in the northern seas1 the pout is plentiful4 ,it bears a striking resemblance to the whiting1 and is esteemed as an excellent fish4--,the pollack is also taken all round our coasts1 and likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting2 indeed1 it is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish2 its flesh being considered by many equally delicate4 ,,to ,,dress ,,whitebait4 #cdh4 ,,ingredients4--,a little flour1 hot lard1 seasoning of salt4 ,mode4--,this fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought1 unless they are cooked immediately4 ,drain them from the water in a colander1 and have ready a nice clean dry cloth1 over which put #b good handfuls of flour4 ,toss in the whitebait1 shake them lightly in the cloth1 and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous flour4 ,throw them into a pan of boiling lard1 very few at a time1 and let them fry till of a whitey-brown colour4 ,directly they are done1 they must he taken out1 and laid before the fire for a minute or two on a sieve reversed1 covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat4 ,dish them on a hot napkin1 arrange the fish very high in the centre1 and sprinkle a little salt over the whole4 ,time4--#c minutes4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,whitebait4 ,,whitebait4--,this highly-esteemed little fish appears in innumerable multitudes in the river ,thames1 near ,greenwich and ,blackwall1 during the month of ,july1 when it forms1 served with lemon and brown bread and butter1 a tempting dish to vast numbers of ,londoners1 who flock to the various taverns of these places1 in order to gratify their appetites4 ,the fish has been supposed be the fry of the shad1 the sprat1 the smelt1 or the bleak4 ,mr4 ,yarrell1 however1 maintains that it is a species in itself1 distinct from every other fish4 ,when fried with flour1 it is esteemed a great delicacy4 ,the ministers of the ,crown have had a custom1 for many years1 of having a whitebait dinner just before the close of the session4 ,it is invariably the precursor of the prorogation of ,parliament1 and the repast is provided by the proprietor of the ,trafalgar1 ,greenwich4 ,,fish ,,pie1 ,,with ,,tench ,,and ,,eels4 #cdi4 ,,ingredients4--#b tench1 #b eels1 #b onions1 a faggot of herbs1 #d blades of mace1 #c anchovies1 #a pint of water1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 the yolks of #f hard-boiled eggs1 puff paste4 ,mode4--,clean and bone the tench1 skin and bone the eels1 and cut them into pieces #b inches long1 and leave the sides of the tench whole4 ,put the bones into a stewpan with the onions1 herbs1 mace1 anchovies1 water1 and seasoning1 and let them simmer gently for #a hour4 ,strain it off1 put it to cool1 and skim off all the fat4 ,lay the tench and eels in a pie-dish1 and between each layer put seasoning1 chopped parsley1 and hard-boiled eggs2 pour in part of the strained liquor1 cover in with puff paste1 and bake for #a_/b hour or rather more4 ,the oven should be rather quick1 and when done1 heat the remainder of the liquor1 which pour into the pie4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to bake1 or rather more if the oven is slow4 ,,fish ,,scallop4 ,i4 #cej4 ,,ingredients4--,remains of cold fish of any sort1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #a_/b tablespoonful of anchovy sauce1 #a_/b teaspoonful of made mustard1 ditto of walnut ketchup1 pepper and salt to taste 7the above quantities are for #a_/b lb4 of fish when picked72 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a stewpan1 carefully picking the fish from the bones2 set it on the fire1 let it remain till nearly hot1 occasionally stir the contents1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,when done1 put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell1 with a good quantity of bread crumbs2 place small pieces of butter on the top1 set in a ,dutch oven before the fire to brown1 or use a salamander4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fish1 #aj;d4 ,,ii4 #cea4 ,,ingredients4--,any cold fish1 #a egg1 milk1 #a large blade of pounded mace1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce1 pepper and salt to taste1 bread crumbs1 butter4 ,mode4--,pick the fish carefully from the bones1 and moisten with milk and the egg2 add the other ingredients1 and place in a deep dish or scallop shells2 cover with bread crumbs1 butter the top1 and brown before the fire2 when quite hot1 serve4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fish1 #d;d4 ,,water ,,souchy4 #ceb4 ,perch1 tench1 soles1 eels1 and flounders are considered the best fish for this dish4 ,for the souchy1 put some water into a stewpan with a bunch of chopped parsley1 some roots1 and sufficient salt to make it brackish4 ,let these simmer for #a hour1 and then stew the fish in this water4 ,when they are done1 take them out to drain1 have ready some finely-chopped parsley1 and a few roots cut into slices of about one inch thick and an inch in length4 ,put the fish in a tureen or deep dish1 strain the liquor over them1 and add the minced parsley and roots4 ,serve with brown bread and butter4 #cec4 ,,supply ,,of ,,fish ,,to ,,the ,,london ,,market4--,from ,mr4 ,mayhew's work on ,london ,labour and the ,london ,poor1 and other sources1 we are enabled to give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the ,london market3-- ,description of ,fish4 ,number of ,weight of ,fish ,fish in lbs ,,wet ,,fish4 ,salmon and ,salmon-,trout7#bi1jjj boxes1 #ad fish per box7 #djf1jjj #c1dhj1jjj ,turbot1 from #h to #af lbs4 #hjj1jjj #e1fjj1jjj ,live ,cod1 averaging #aj lbs4 each #djj1jjj #d1jjj1jjj ,soles1 averaging #a_/d lbs4 each #ig1ebj1jjj #bf1hhj1jjj ,brill and ,mullet1 averaging #c lbs4 each #a1bbj1jjj #c1cff1jjj ,whiting1 averaging #f oz4 each #ag1ibj1jjj #f1gbj1jjj ,haddock1 averaging #b lbs4 each #b1dgj1jjj #d1idj1jjj ,plaice1 averaging #a lb4 each #cc1fjj1jjj #cc1fjj1jjj ,mackerel1 averaging #a lb ach #bc1ebj1jjj #bc1ebj1jjj ,fresh herrings 7#bej1jjj barrels1 #gjj fish per barrel7 #age1jjj1jjj #db1jjj1jjj ,ditto in bulk #a1jej1jjj1jjj #beb1jjj1jjj ,sprats -- #d1jjj1jjj ,eels 7from ,holland principally7 ,england and ,ireland #i1gig1gfj #a1fcb1ifj ,flounders #bei1bjj #dh1bjj ,dabs #bgj1jjj #dh1gej ,,dry ,,fish4 ,barrelled ,cod7#ae1jjj barrels1 #dj fish per barrel7 #gej1jjj #d1bjj1jjj ,dried ,salt ,cod1 #e lbs each #a1fjj1jjj #h1jjj1jjj ,smoked ,haddock7#fe1jjj barrels1 #cjj fish per barrel7 #ai1ejj1jjj #aj1ibj1jjj ,bloaters1 #bfe1jjj baskets7#aej fish per basket7 #adg1jjj1jjj #aj1fjj1jjj ,red ,herrings1 #ajj1jjj barrels7#ejj fish per barrel7 #ej1jjj1jjj #ad1jjj1jjj ,dried ,sprats1 #i1fjj large bundles 7#cj fish per bundle7 #bhh1jjj #i1fjj ,,shell ,,fish4 ,oysters #die1hif1jjj ,lobsters1 averaging #a lb each #a1bjj1jjj #a1bjj1jjj ,crabs1 averaging #a lb each #fjj1jjj #fjj1jjj ,shrimps1 #cbd to a pint #dih1dbh1fdh ,whelks1 #bbg to a half-bushel #d1idc1bjj ,mussels1 #ajjj to ditto #ej1djj1jjj ,cockles1 #bjjj to ditto #fg1cib1jjj ,periwinkles1 #djjj to ditto #cjd1jjj1jjj ,the whole of the above may be1 in round numbers1 reckoned to amount to the enormous number of #c1jjj1jjj1jjj fish1 with a weight of #cjj1jjj tons4 ,,addendum ,,and ,,anecdote4 ,it will be seen1 from the number and variety of the recipes which we have been enabled to give under the head of ,,fish1 that there exists in the salt ocean1 and fresh-water rivers1 an abundance of aliment1 which the present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce to the table in the most agreeable forms1 and oftentimes at a very moderate cost4 ,less nutritious as a food than the flesh of animals1 more succulent than vegetables1 fish may be termed a middle dish1 suited to all temperaments and constitutions2 and one which those who are recovering from illness may partake of with safety and advantage4 ,as to which is the best fish1 there has been much discussion4 ,the old ,latin proverb1 however1 de gustibus non disputandum1 and the more modern ,spanish one1 sobre los gustos no hai disputa1 declare1 with equal force1 that where taste is concerned1 no decision can be arrived at4 ,each person's palate may be differently affected--pleased or displeased2 and there is no standard by which to judge why a red mullet1 a sole1 or a turbot1 should be better or worse than a salmon1 trout1 pike1 or a tiny tench4 ,fish1 as we have explained1 is less nourishing than meat2 for it is lighter in weight1 size for size1 and contains no ozmazome 7see ,no4 #ajj74 ,shell-fish1 oysters particularly1 furnish but little nutriment2 and this is the reason why so many of the latter can be eaten without injury to the system4 ,in ,brillat ,savarin's ,footnote3 ,brillat ,savarin was a ,french lawyer and judge of considerable eminence and great talents1 and wrote1 under the above title1 a book on gastronomy1 full of instructive information1 enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote4 clever and amusing volume1 ,the ,physiology of ,taste1 he says1 that towards the end of the eighteenth century it was a most common thing for a well-arranged entertainment in ,paris to commence with oysters1 and that many guests were not contented without swallowing twelve dozen4 ,being anxious to know the weight of this advanced-guard1 he ascertained that a dozen oysters1 fluid included1 weighed #d ounces1--thus1 the twelve dozen would weigh about #c lbs42 and there can be no doubt1 that the same persons who made no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters1 would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same weight of chicken or mutton4 ,an anecdote1 perfectly well authenticated1 is narrated of a ,french gentleman 7,m4 ,laperte71 residing at ,versailles1 who was extravagantly fond of oysters1 declaring he never had enough4 ,savarin resolved to procure him the satisfaction1 and gave him an invitation to dinner1 which was duly accepted4 ,the guest arrived1 and his host kept company with him in swallowing the delicious bivalves up to the tenth dozen1 when1 exhausted1 he gave up1 and let ,m4 ,laperte go on alone4 ,this gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an hour1 and would doubtless have got through more1 but the person who opened them is described as not being very skilful4 ,in the interim ,savarin was idle1 and at length1 tired with his painful state of inaction1 he said to ,laperte1 whilst the latter was still in full career1 ,mon cher1 you will not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant2 let us dine4 ,they dined1 and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as if he had fasted for a week4 ,,fish ,,carving4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,carving ,,fish4 ,in carving fish1 care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes1 as1 if these are broken1 the beauty of the fish is lost4 ,the carver should be acquainted1 too1 with the choicest parts and morsels2 and to give each guest an equal share of these titbits should be his maxim4 ,steel knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish1 as these are liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour4 ,where silver fish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought1 good electro-plated ones answer very well1 and are inexpensive4 ,the prices set down for them by ,messrs4 ,slack1 of the ,strand1 are from a guinea upwards4 ,,cod',s ,,head ,,and ,,shoulders4 7,for recipe1 see ,no4 #bcb2 and for mode of serving1 ,coloured ,plate ,c47 ,illustration ,first run the knife along the centre of the side of the fish1 namely1 from d to b1 down to the bone2 then carve it in unbroken slices downwards from d to e1 or upwards from d to c1 as shown in the engraving4 ,the carver should ask the guests if they would like a portion of the roe and liver4 ,note4--,of this fish1 the parts about the backbone and shoulders are the firmest1 and most esteemed by connoisseurs4 ,the sound1 which lines the fish beneath the backbone1 is considered a delicacy1 as are also the gelatinous parts about the head and neck4 ,,salmon4 7,for recipe1 see ,no4 #cja2 and for mode of dressing1 ,coloured ,plate ,b47 ,illustration ,first run the knife quite down to the bone1 along the side of the fish1 from a to b1 and also from c to d4 ,then help the thick part lengthwise1 that is1 in the direction of the lines from a to b2 and the thin part breadthwise1 that is1 in the direction of the lines from e to f1 as shown in the engraving4 ,a slice of the thick part should always be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly1 where lies the fat of the fish4 ,note4--,many persons1 in carving salmon1 make the mistake of slicing the thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that we have stated2 and thus1 by the breaking of the flakes1 the beauty of its appearance is destroyed4 ,,boiled ,,or ,,fried ,,sole4 7,for recipes1 see ,nos4 #cba and #cbg47 ,the usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through1 bone and all1 distributing it in nice and not too large pieces4 ,a moderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices2 namely1 the head1 middle1 and tail4 ,the guests should be asked which of these they prefer4 ,a small one will only give two slices4 ,if the sole is very large1 the upper side may be raised from the bone1 and then divided into pieces2 and the under side afterwards served in the same way4 ,in helping ,,filleted ,,soles1 one fillet is given to each person4 7,for mode of serving1 see ,coloured ,plate ,a47 ,,turbot4 7,for recipe1 see ,no4 #ccg2 and for mode of serving1 ,coloured ,plate ,e47 ,first run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish1 quite through to the bone1 from a to b1 and then cut handsome and regular slices in the direction of the lines downwards1 from c to e1 and upwards from c to d1 as shown in the engraving4 ,when the carver has removed all the meat from the upper side of the fish1 the backbone should be raised1 put on one side of the dish1 and the under side helped as the upper4 ,a ,,brill and ,,john ,,dory are carved in the same manner as a ,turbot4 ,illustration ,note4--,the thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices in a turbot2 and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish1 as well as a little of the thick part of the fins1 are dainty morsels1 and should be placed on each plate4 ,,whiting1 c4 ,whiting1 pike1 haddock1 and other fish1 when of a sufficiently large size1 may be carved in the same manner as salmon4 ,when small1 they may be cut through1 bone and all1 and helped in nice pieces1 a middling-sized whiting serving for two slices4 ,note4--,the ,,thick part of the ,,eel is reckoned the best2 and this holds good of all flat fish4 ,the ,,tail of the ,,lobster is the prime part1 and next to that the ,,claws4 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,carvers4 ,illustration ,,sauces1 ,,pickles1 ,,gravies1 ,,and ,,forcemeats4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,general ,,remarks4 #ced4 ,,an ,,anecdote ,,is ,,told of the prince de ,soubise1 who1 intending to give an entertainment1 asked for the bill of fare4 ,his chef came1 presenting a list adorned with vignettes1 and the first article of which1 that met the prince's eye1 was fifty hams4 ,bertrand1 said the prince1 ,i think you must be extravagant2 ,fifty hams6 do you intend to feast my whole regiment8 ,no1 ,prince1 there will be but one on the table1 and the surplus ,i need for my ,espagnole1 blondes1 garnitures1 c4 ,bertrand1 you are robbing me3 this item will not do4 ,monseigneur1 said the artiste1 you do not appreciate me4 ,give me the order1 and ,i will put those fifty hams in a crystal flask no longer than my thumb4 ,the prince smiled1 and the hams were passed4 ,this was all very well for the prince de ,soubise2 but as we do not write for princes and nobles alone1 but that our ,british sisters may make the best dishes out of the least expensive ingredients1 we will also pass the hams1 and give a few general directions concerning ,sauces1 c4 #cee4 ,,the ,,preparation ,,and ,,appearance ,,of ,,sauces ,,and ,,gravies are of the highest consequence1 and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself4 ,their special adaptability to the various viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied1 in order that they may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly1 so to speak1 as does a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer4 #cef4 ,,the ,,general ,,basis ,,of ,,most ,,gravies and some sauces is the same stock as that used for soups 7see ,nos4 #ajd1 #aje1 #ajf1 and #ajg72 and1 by the employment of these1 with1 perhaps1 an additional slice of ham1 a little spice1 a few herbs1 and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or ketchup1 very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure4 ,a milt 7either of a bullock or sheep71 the shank-end of mutton that has already been dressed1 and the necks and feet of poultry1 may all be advantageously used for gravy1 where much is not required4 ,it may1 then1 be established as a rule1 that there exists no necessity for good gravies to be expensive1 and that there is no occasion1 as many would have the world believe1 to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat1 in order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy4 #ceg4 ,,brown ,,sauces1 generally speaking1 should scarcely be so thick as white sauces2 and it is well to bear in mind1 that all those which are intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat1 should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured4 ,for browning and thickening sauces1 c41 browned flour may be properly employed4 #ceh4 ,,sauces ,,should ,,possess ,a ,,decided ,,character2 and whether sharp or sweet1 savoury or plain1 they should carry out their names in a distinct manner1 although1 of course1 not so much flavoured as to make them too piquant on the one hand1 or too mawkish on the other4 #cei4 ,,gravies ,,and ,,sauces ,,should ,,be ,,sent ,,to ,,table ,,very ,,hot2 and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point1 as1 from their being usually served in small quantities1 they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body4 ,those sauces1 of which cream or eggs form a component part1 should be well stirred1 as soon as these ingredients are added to them1 and must never be allowed to boil2 as1 in that case1 they would instantly curdle4 #cfj4 ,,although ,,pickles ,,may ,,be ,,purchased at shops at as low a rate as they can usually be made for at home1 or perhaps even for less1 yet we would advise all housewives1 who have sufficient time and convenience1 to prepare their own4 ,the only general rules1 perhaps1 worth stating here1--as in the recipes all necessary details will be explained1 are1 that the vegetables and fruits used should be sound1 and not over ripe1 and that the very best vinegar should be employed4 #cfa4 ,,for ,,forcemeats1 ,,special ,,attention ,,is ,,necessary4 ,the points which cooks should1 in this branch of cookery1 more particularly observe1 are the thorough chopping of the suet1 the complete mincing of the herbs1 the careful grating of the bread-crumbs1 and the perfect mixing of the whole4 ,these are the three principal ingredients of forcemeats1 and they can scarcely be cut too small1 as nothing like a lump or fibre should be anywhere perceptible4 ,to conclude1 the flavour of no one spice or herb should be permitted to predominate4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,sauces1 ,,pickles1 ,,gravies1 ,,and ,,forcemeats4 ,,anchovy ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish4 #cfb4 ,,ingredients4--#d anchovies1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,bone the anchovies1 and pound them in a mortar to a paste1 with #a oz4 of butter4 ,make the melted butter hot1 stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne2 simmer for #c or #d minutes2 and if liked1 add a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,a more general and expeditious way of making this sauce is to stir in #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to #a_/b pint of melted butter1 and to add seasoning to taste4 ,boil the whole up for #a minute1 and serve hot4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 for #a_/b pint4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a brill1 small turbot1 #c or #d soles1 c4 ,,anchovy ,,butter 7see ,no4 #bbg74 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,capiscum4 ,,cayenne4--,this is the most acrid and stimulating spice with which we are acquainted4 ,it is a powder prepared from several varieties of the capsicum annual ,east-,india plants1 of which there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able to grow in the open air3 these are the ,guinea1 the ,cherry1 and the ,bell pepper4 ,all the pods of these are extremely pungent to the taste1 and in the green state are used by us as a pickle4 ,when ripe1 they are ground into cayenne pepper1 and sold as a condiment4 ,the best of this1 however1 is made in the ,west ,indies1 from what is called the ,bird pepper1 on account of hens and turkeys being extremely partial to it4 ,it is imported ready for use4 ,of the capiscum species of plants there are five2 but the principal are1--#a4 ,capsicum annuum1 the common long-podded capsicum1 which is cultivated in our gardens1 and of which there are two varieties1 one with red1 and another with yellow fruit4 #b4 ,capsicum baccatum1 or bird pepper1 which rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet high1 with its berries growing at the division of the branches3 this is small1 oval-shaped1 and of a bright-red colour1 from which1 as we have said1 the best cayenne is made4 #c4 ,capsicum grossum1 the bell-pepper3 the fruit of this is red1 and is the only kind fit for pickling4 ,,apple ,,sauce ,,for ,,geese1 ,,pork1 c4 #cfc4 ,,ingredients4--#f good-sized apples1 sifted sugar to taste1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 water4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and quarter the apples1 and throw them into cold water to preserve their whiteness4 ,put them in a saucepan1 with sufficient water to moisten them1 and boil till soft enough to pulp4 ,beat them up1 adding sugar to taste1 and a small piece of butter ,this quantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen4 ,time4--,according to the apples1 about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a goose or couple of ducks4 ,,brown ,,apple ,,sauce4 #cfd4 ,,ingredients4--#f good-sized apples1 #a_/b pint of brown gravy1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4 ,put the gravy in a stewpan1 and add the apples1 after having pared1 cored1 and quartered them4 ,let them simmer gently till tender2 beat them to a pulp1 and season with cayenne4 ,this sauce is preferred by many to the preceding4 ,time4--,according to the apples1 about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,,asparagus ,,sauce4 #cfe4 ,,ingredients4--#a bunch of green asparagus1 salt1 #a oz4 of fresh butter1 #a small bunch of parsley1 #c or #d green onions1 #a large lump of sugar1 #d tablespoonfuls of sauce tourne4 ,mode4--,break the asparagus in the tender part1 wash well1 and put them into boiling salt and water to render them green4 ,when they are tender1 take them out1 and put them into cold water2 drain them on a cloth till all moisture is absorbed from them4 ,put the butter in a stewpan1 with the parsley and onions2 lay in the asparagus1 and fry the whole over a sharp fire for #e minutes4 ,add salt1 the sugar and sauce tourne1 and simmer for another #e minutes4 ,rub all through a tammy1 and if not a very good colour1 use a little spinach green4 ,this sauce should be rather sweet4 ,time4--,altogether #dj minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #as4 #d;d4 ,,aspic1 or ,,ornamental ,,savoury ,,jelly4 #cff4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of knuckle of veal1 #a cow-heel1 #c or #d slices of ham1 any poultry trimmings1 #b carrots1 #a onion1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a glass of sherry1 #c quarts of water2 seasoning to taste of salt and whole white pepper2 #c eggs4 ,mode4--,lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan1 cut up the veal and cow-heel into small pieces1 and lay them on the ham2 add the poultry trimmings1 vegetables1 herbs1 sherry1 and water1 and let the whole simmer very gently for #d hours1 carefully taking away all scum that may rise to the surface2 strain through a fine sieve1 and pour into an earthen pan to get cold4 ,have ready a clean stewpan1 put in the jelly1 and be particular to leave the sediment behind1 or it will not be clear4 ,add the whites of #c eggs1 with salt and pepper1 to clarify2 keep stirring over the fire1 till the whole becomes very white2 then draw it to the side1 and let it stand till clear4 ,when this is the case1 strain it through a cloth or jelly-bag1 and use it for moulding poultry1 etc4 7,see ,explanation of ,french ,terms1 page #dd47 ,tarragon vinegar may be added to give an additional flavour4 ,time4--,altogether #d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #ds4 ,,white ,,pepper4--,this is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the black pepper1 from which it is manufactured by steeping this in lime and water1 and rubbing it between the hands till the coats come off4 ,the best berries only will bear this operation2 hence the superior qualities of white pepper fetch a higher price than those of the other4 ,it is less acrid than the black1 and is much prized among the ,chinese4 ,it is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour1 as the black is with burnt bread4 ,the berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty1 and are1 when ripe1 of a bright-red colour4 ,after being gathered1 which is done when they are green1 they are spread out in the sun1 where they dry and become black and shrivelled1 when they are ready for being prepared for the market4 ,,bechamel1 or ,,french ,,white ,,sauce4 #cfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a small bunch of parsley1 #b cloves1 #a_/b bay-leaf1 #a small faggot of savoury herbs1 salt to taste2 #c or #d mushrooms1 when obtainable2 #b pints of white stock1 #a pint of cream1 #a tablespoonful of arrowroot4 ,mode4--,put the stock into a stewpan1 with the parsley1 cloves1 bay-leaf1 herbs1 and mushrooms2 add a seasoning of salt1 but no pepper1 as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance1 and should be avoided4 ,when it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour of the herbs1 etc41 strain it1 and boil it up quickly again1 until it is nearly half-reduced4 ,now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream1 and let it simmer very gently for #e minutes over a slow fire2 pour to it the reduced stock1 and continue to simmer slowly for #aj minutes1 if the sauce be thick4 ,if1 on the contrary1 it be too thin1 it must be stirred over a sharp fire till it thickens4 ,this is the foundation of many kinds of sauces1 especially white sauces4 ,always make it thick1 as you can easily thin it with cream1 milk1 or white stock4 ,time4--,altogether1 #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per pint4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,clove4 ,,the ,,clove4--,the clove-tree is a native of the ,molucca ,islands1 particularly ,amboyna1 and attains the height of a laurel-tree1 and no verdure is ever seen under it4 ,from the extremities of the branches quantities of flowers grow1 first white2 then they become green1 and next red and hard1 when they have arrived at their clove state4 ,when they become dry1 they assume a yellowish hue1 which subsequently changes into a dark brown4 ,as an aromatic1 the clove is highly stimulating1 and yields an abundance of oil4 ,there are several varieties of the clove2 the best is called the royal clove1 which is scarce1 and which is blacker and smaller than the other kinds4 ,it is a curious fact1 that the flowers1 when fully developed1 are quite inodorous1 and that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic4 ,the form is that of a nail1 having a globular head1 formed of the four petals of the corolla1 and four leaves of the calyx not expanded1 with a nearly cylindrical germen1 scarcely an inch in length1 situate below4 ,,bechamel ,,maigre1 or ,,without ,,meat4 #cfh4 ,,ingredients4--#b onions1 #a blade of mace1 mushroom trimmings1 a small bunch of parsley1 #a oz4 of butter1 flour1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a pint of milk1 salt1 the juice of #a lemon1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,put in a stewpan the milk1 and #a_/b pint of water1 with the onions1 mace1 mushrooms1 parsley1 and salt4 ,let these simmer gently for #bj minutes4 ,in the mean time1 rub on a plate #a oz4 of flour and butter2 put it to the liquor1 and stir it well till it boils up2 then place it by the side of the fire1 and continue stirring until it is perfectly smooth4 ,now strain it through a sieve into a basin1 after which put it back in the stewpan1 and add the lemon-juice4 ,beat up the yolks of the eggs with about #d dessertspoonfuls of milk2 strain this to the sauce1 keep stirring it over the fire1 but do not let it boil1 lest it curdle4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 per pint4 ,this is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a bad colour4 ,,pickled ,,beetroot4 #cfi4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient vinegar to cover the beets1 #b oz4 of whole pepper1 #b oz4 of allspice to each gallon of vinegar4 ,mode4--,wash the beets free from dirt1 and be very careful not to prick the outside skin1 or they would lose their beautiful colour4 ,put them into boiling water1 let them simmer gently1 and when about three parts done1 which will be in #a-a_/b hour1 take them out and let them cool4 ,boil the vinegar with pepper and allspice1 in the above proportion1 for ten minutes1 and when cold1 pour it on the beets1 which must be peeled and cut into slices about #a_/b inch thick4 ,cover with bladder to exclude the air1 and in a week they will be fit for use4 ,average cost1 #cs4 per gallon4 ,illustration3 ,,black ,,pepper4 ,,black ,,pepper4--,this well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a species of climbing vine1 and is a native of the ,east ,indies1 and is extensively cultivated in ,malabar and the eastern islands of ,borneo1 ,sumatra1 and ,java1 and others in the same latitude4 ,it was formerly confined to these countries1 but it has now been introduced to ,cayenne4 ,it is generally employed as a condiment2 but it should never be forgotten1 that1 even in small quantities1 it produces detrimental effects on inflammatory constitutions4 ,dr4 ,paris1 in his work on ,diet1 says1 ,foreign spices were not intended by ,nature for the inhabitants of temperate climes2 they are heating1 and highly stimulant4 ,i am1 however1 not anxious to give more weight to this objection than it deserves4 ,man is no longer the child of ,nature1 nor the passive inhabitant of any particular region4 ,he ranges over every part of the globe1 and elicits nourishment from the productions of every climate4 ,nature is very kind in favouring the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer our local wants4 ,those climates1 for instance1 which engender endemic diseases1 are1 in general1 congenial to the growth of plants that operate as antidotes to them4 ,but if we go to the ,east for tea1 there is no reason why we should not go to the ,west for sugar4 ,the dyspeptic invalid1 however1 should be cautious in their use2 they may afford temporary benefit1 at the expense of permanent mischief4 ,it has been well said1 that the best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite1 and their worst to destroy1 by insensible degrees1 the tone of the stomach4 ,the intrinsic goodness of meats should always be suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for their natural want of sapidity4 ,the quality of pepper is known by rubbing it between the hands3 that which withstands this operation is good1 that which is reduced to powder by it is bad4 ,the quantity of pepper imported into ,europe is very great4 ,,benton ,,sauce 7to serve with ,hot or ,cold ,roast ,beef74 #cgj4 ,,ingredients4--#a tablespoonful of scraped horseradish1 #a teaspoonful of made mustard1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,mode4--,grate or scrape the horseradish very fine1 and mix it with the other ingredients1 which must be all well blended together2 serve in a tureen4 ,with cold meat1 this sauce is a very good substitute for pickles4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #b;d4 ,,bread ,,sauce 7to serve with ,roast ,turkey1 ,fowl1 ,game1 c474 ,i4 #cga4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #c_/d of the crumb of a stale loaf1 #a onion2 pounded mace1 cayenne1 and salt to taste2 #a oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,peel and quarter the onion1 and simmer it in the milk till perfectly tender4 ,break the bread1 which should be stale1 into small pieces1 carefully picking out any hard outside pieces2 put it in a very clean saucepan1 strain the milk over it1 cover it up1 and let it remain for an hour to soak4 ,now beat it up with a fork very smoothly1 add a seasoning of pounded mace1 cayenne1 and salt1 with #a oz4 of butter2 give the whole one boil1 and serve4 ,to enrich this sauce1 a small quantity of cream may be added just before sending it to table4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a-c_/d hour4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #d;d4 ,sufficient to serve with a turkey1 pair of fowls1 or brace of partridges4 ,illustration3 ,,mace4 ,,mace4--,this is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg4 ,its general qualities are the same as those of the nutmeg1 producing an agreeable aromatic odour1 with a hot and acrid taste4 ,it is of an oleaginous nature1 is yellowish in its hue1 and is used largely as a condiment4 ,in ,beeton's ,dictionary we find that the four largest of the ,banda ,islands produce #aej1jjj lbs4 of it annually1 which1 with nutmegs1 are their principal articles of export4 ,,ii4 #cgb4 ,,ingredients4--,giblets of poultry1 #c_/d lb4 of the crumb of a stale loaf1 #a onion1 #ab whole peppers1 #a blade of mace1 salt to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter1 #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,put the giblets1 with the head1 neck1 legs1 c41 into a stewpan2 add the onion1 pepper1 mace1 salt1 and rather more than #a pint of water4 ,let this simmer for an hour1 when strain the liquor over the bread1 which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces4 ,cover up the saucepan1 and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire2 then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain1 and the whole is nice and smooth4 ,let it boil for #c or #d minutes2 keep stirring it until it is rather thick2 when add #c tablespoonfuls of good melted butter or cream1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,,browning ,,for ,,gravies ,,and ,,sauces4 #cgc4 ,the browning for soups 7see ,no4 #ajh7 answers equally well for sauces and gravies1 when it is absolutely necessary to colour them in this manner2 but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup1 wine1 browned flour1 tomatoes1 or any colour sauce1 it is far preferable4 ,as1 however1 in cooking1 so much depends on appearance1 perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the artificial means 7,no4 #ajh74 ,when no browning is at hand1 and you wish to heighten the colour of your gravy1 dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire2 when it is in a liquid state1 drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot4 ,care1 however1 must be taken not to put in too much1 as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour4 ,,beurre ,,noir1 or ,,browned ,,butter 7a ,french ,sauce74 #cgd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #c tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire1 and when it smokes1 throw in the parsley1 and add the vinegar and seasoning4 ,let the whole simmer for a minute or two1 when it is ready to serve4 ,this is a very good sauce for skate4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,,clarified ,,butter4 #cge4 ,put the butter in a basin before the fire1 and when it melts1 stir it round once or twice1 and let it settle4 ,do not strain it unless absolutely necessary1 as it causes so much waste4 ,pour it gently off into a clean dry jar1 carefully leaving all sediment behind4 ,let it cool1 and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder1 or piece of wash-leather1 tied over4 ,if the butter is salt1 it may be washed before melting1 when it is to be used for sweet dishes4 ,,melted ,,butter4 ,i4 #cgf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a wineglassful of water1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the butter up into small pieces1 put it in a saucepan1 dredge over the flour1 and add the water and a seasoning of salt2 stir it one way constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended4 ,let it just boil1 when it is ready to serve4 ,if the butter is to be melted with cream1 use the same quantity as of water1 but omit the flour2 keep stirring it1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #d;d4 ,,ii4 7,more ,economical47 #cgg4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 salt to taste1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,mix the flour and water to a smooth batter1 which put into a saucepan4 ,add the butter and a seasoning of salt1 keep stirring one way till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth2 let the whole boil for a minute or two1 and serve4 ,time4--#b minutes to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #b;d4 ,,melted ,,butter 7the ,french ,sauce ,blanche74 #cgh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 salt to taste1 #a_/b gill of water1 #a_/b spoonful of white vinegar1 a very little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,mix the flour and water to a smooth batter1 carefully rubbing down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear4 ,put it in a saucepan with all the other ingredients1 and let it thicken on the fire1 but do not allow it to boil1 lest it should taste of the flour4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 for this quantity4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,nutmeg4 ,,nutmeg4--,this is a native of the ,moluccas1 and was long kept from being spread in other places by the monopolizing spirit of the ,dutch1 who endeavoured to keep it wholly to themselves by eradicating it from every other island4 ,we find it stated in ,beeton's ,dictionary of ,universal ,information1 under the article ,banda ,islands1 that the four largest are appropriated to the cultivation of nutmegs1 of which about #ejj1jjj lbs4 are annually produced4 ,the plant1 through the enterprise of the ,british1 has now found its way into ,penang and ,bencooleu1 where it flourishes and produces well4 ,it has also been tried to be naturalized in the ,west ,indies1 and it bears fruit all the year round4 ,there are two kinds of nutmeg1--one wild1 and long and oval-shaped1 the other cultivated1 and nearly round4 ,the best is firm and hard1 and has a strong aromatic odour1 with a hot and acrid taste4 ,it ought to be used with caution by those who are of paralytic or apoplectic habits4 ,,thickened ,,butter4 #cgi4--;,,ingredients4--#a_/d pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf1 the yolks of #b eggs1 a little lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,make the butter quite hot1 and be careful not to colour it4 ,well whisk the yolks of the eggs1 pour them to the butter1 beating them all the while4 ,make the sauce hot over the fire1 but do not let it boil2 add a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,,melted ,,butter ,,made ,,with ,,milk4 #chj4 ,,ingredients4--#a teaspoonful of flour1 #b oz4 butter1 #a_/c pint of milk1 a few grains of salt4 ,mode4--,mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate1 put it into a lined saucepan1 and pour in the milk4 ,keep stirring it one way over a sharp fire2 let it boil quickly for a minute or two1 and it is ready to serve4 ,this is a very good foundation for onion1 lobster1 or oyster sauce3 using milk instead of water makes it look so much whiter and more delicate4 ,time4--,altogether1 #aj minutes4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #c;d4 ,,camp ,,vinegar4 #cha4 ,,ingredients4--#a head of garlic1 #a_/b oz4 cayenne1 #b teaspoonfuls of soy1 #b ditto walnut ketchup1 #a pint of vinegar1 cochineal to colour4 ,mode4--,slice the garlic1 and put it1 with all the above ingredients1 into a clean bottle4 ,let it stand to infuse for a month1 when strain it off quite clear1 and it will be fit for use4 ,keep it in small bottles well sealed1 to exclude the air4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #h;d4 ,,caper ,,sauce ,,for ,,boiled ,,mutton4 #chb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter 7,no4 #cgf71 #c tablespoonfuls of capers or nasturtiums1 #a tablespoonful of their liquor4 ,mode4--,chop the capers twice or thrice1 and add them1 with their liquor1 to #a_/b pint of melted butter1 made very smoothly2 keep stirring well2 let the sauce just simmer1 and serve in a tureen4 ,pickled nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured1 and by many are eaten in preference to capers4 ,they make an excellent sauce4 ,time4--#b minutes to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #h;d4 ,sufficient to serve with a leg of mutton4 ,,caper ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish4 #chc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter ,no4 #cgf1 #c dessertspoonfuls of capers1 #a dessertspoonful of their liquor1 a small piece of glaze1 if at hand 7this may be dispensed with71 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt1 ditto of pepper1 #a tablespoonful of anchovy essence4 ,mode4--,cut the capers across once or twice1 but do not chop them fine2 put them in a saucepan with #a_/b pint of good melted butter1 and add all the other ingredients4 ,keep stirring the whole until it just simmers1 when it is ready to serve4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #e;d4 ,sufficient to serve with a skate1 or #b or #c slices of salmon4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,caper4 ,,capers4--,these are the unopened buds of a low trailing shrub1 which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of ,greece1 as well as in northern ,africa3 the plant1 however1 has come to be cultivated in the south of ,europe4 ,after being pickled in vinegar and salt1 they are imported from ,sicily1 ,italy1 and the south of ,france4 ,the best are from ,toulon4 ,a ,,substitute ,,for ,,caper ,,sauce4 #chd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf1 #b tablespoonfuls of cut parsley1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 #a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,mode4--,boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour2 cut1 but do not chop it fine4 ,add it to #a_/b pint of smoothly-made melted butter1 with salt and vinegar in the above proportions4 ,boil up and serve4 ,time4--#b minutes to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #c;d4 ,,pickled ,,capsicums4 #che4 ,,ingredients4--,vinegar1 #a_/d oz4 of pounded mace1 and #a_/d oz4 of grated nutmeg1 to each quart2 brine4 ,mode4--,gather the pods with the stalks on1 before they turn red2 slit them down the side with a small-pointed knife1 and remove the seeds only2 put them in a strong brine for #c days1 changing it every morning2 then take them out1 lay them on a cloth1 with another one over them1 until they are perfectly free from moisture4 ,boil sufficient vinegar to cover them1 with mace and nutmeg in the above proportions2 put the pods in a jar1 pour over the vinegar when cold1 and exclude them from the air by means of a wet bladder tied over4 ,,cayenne ,,vinegar1 or ,,essence ,,of ,,cayenne4 #chf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b oz4 of cayenne pepper1 #a_/b pint of strong spirit1 or #a pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,put the vinegar1 or spirit1 into a bottle1 with the above proportion of cayenne1 and let it steep for a month1 when strain off and bottle for use4 ,this is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces1 but must be used very sparingly4 ,,celery ,,sauce1 ,,for ,,boiled ,,turkey1 ,,poultry1 c4 #chg4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of celery1 #a pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 #b blades of mace1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs2 thickening of butter and flour1 or arrowroot1 #a_/b pint of cream1 lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,boil the celery in salt and water1 until tender1 and cut it into pieces #b inches long4 ,put the stock into a stewpan with the mace and herbs1 and let it simmer for #a_/b hour to extract their flavour4 ,then strain the liquor1 add the celery and a thickening of butter kneaded with flour1 or1 what is still better1 with arrowroot2 just before serving1 put in the cream1 boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon-juice4 ,if necessary1 add a seasoning of salt and white pepper4 ,time4--#be minutes to boil the celery4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a boiled turkey4 ,this sauce may be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock1 and flavouring it with mushroom ketchup or ,harvey's sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,arrowroot4 ,,arrowroot4--,this nutritious fecula is obtained from the roots of a plant which is cultivated in both the ,east and ,west ,indies4 ,when the roots are about a year old1 they are dug up1 and1 after being well washed1 are beaten to a pulp1 which is afterwards1 by means of water1 separated from the fibrous part4 ,after being passed through a sieve1 once more washed1 and then suffered to settle1 the sediment is dried in the sun1 when it has become arrowroot4 ,the best is obtained from the ,west ,indies1 but a large quantity of what is sold in ,london is adulterated with potato-starch4 ,as a means of knowing arrowroot when it is good1 it may be as well to state1 that the genuine article1 when formed into a jelly1 will remain firm for three or four days1 whilst the adulterated will become as thin as milk in the course of twelve hours4 ,,celery ,,sauce 7a ,more ,simple ,recipe74 #chh4 ,,ingredients4--#d heads of celery1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 made with milk 7,no4 #chj71 #a blade of pounded mace2 salt and white pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,wash the celery1 boil it in salt and water till tender1 and cut it into pieces #b inches long2 make #a_/b pint melted butter by recipe ,no4 #chj2 put in the celery1 pounded mace1 and seasoning2 simmer for three minutes1 when the sauce will be ready to serve4 ,time4--#be minutes to boil the celery4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a boiled fowl4 ,,celery ,,vinegar4 #chi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d oz4 of celery-seed1 #a pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar2 boil the vinegar1 and when cold1 pour it to the seed2 let it infuse for a fortnight1 when strain and bottle off for use4 ,this is frequently used in salads4 ,,chestnut ,,sauce ,,for ,,fowls ,,or ,,turkey4 #cij4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of chestnuts1 #a_/b pint of white stock1 #b strips of lemon-peel1 cayenne to taste1 #a_/d pint of cream or milk4 ,mode4--,peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts1 and put them into boiling water for a few minutes2 take off the thin inside peel1 and put them into a saucepan1 with the white stock and lemon-peel1 and let them simmer for #a-a_/b hour1 or until the chestnuts are quite tender4 ,rub the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon2 add seasoning and the cream2 let it just simmer1 but not boil1 and keep stirring all the time4 ,serve very hot2 and quickly4 ,if milk is used instead of cream1 a very small quantity of thickening may be required3 that1 of course1 the cook will determine4 ,time4--,altogether nearly two hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a turkey4 ,,brown ,,chestnut ,,sauce4 #cia4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of chestnuts1 #a_/b pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #b lumps of sugar1 #d tablespoonfuls of ,spanish sauce 7see ,sauces74 ,mode4--,prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe1 by scalding and peeling them2 put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar1 and simmer them till tender4 ,when done1 add ,spanish sauce in the above proportion1 and rub the whole through a tammy4 ,keep this sauce rather liquid1 as it is liable to thicken4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to simmer the chestnuts4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,,bengal ,,recipe ,,for ,,making ,,mango ,,chetney4 #cib4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lbs4 of moist sugar1 #c_/d lb4 of salt1 #a_/d lb4 of garlic1 #a_/d lb4 of onions1 #c_/d lb4 of powdered ginger1 #a_/d lb4 of dried chilies1 #c_/d lb4 of mustard-seed1 #c_/d lb4 of stoned raisins1 #b bottles of best vinegar1 #cj large unripe sour apples4 ,mode4--,the sugar must be made into syrup2 the garlic1 onions1 and ginger be finely pounded in a mortar2 the mustard-seed be washed in cold vinegar1 and dried in the sun2 the apples be peeled1 cored1 and sliced1 and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar4 ,when all this is done1 and the apples are quite cold1 put them into a large pan1 and gradually mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients1 including the remaining half-bottle of vinegar4 ,it must be well stirred until the whole is thoroughly blended1 and then put into bottles for use4 ,tie a piece of wet bladder over the mouths of the bottles1 after they are well corked4 ,this chetney is very superior to any which can be bought1 and one trial will prove it to be delicious4 ,note4--,this recipe was given by a native to an ,english lady1 who had long been a resident in ,india1 and who1 since her return to her native country1 has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for the excellence of this ,eastern relish4 ,illustration3 ,,garlic4 ,,garlic4--,the smell of this plant is generally considered offensive1 and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the whole of the alliaceous tribe4 ,in #aedh it was introduced to ,england from the shores of the ,mediterranean1 where it is abundant1 and in ,sicily it grows naturally4 ,it was in greater repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves1 although it is still used as a seasoning herb4 ,on the continent1 especially in ,italy1 it is much used1 and the ,french consider it an essential in many made dishes4 ,,chili ,,vinegar4 #cic4 ,,ingredients4--#ej fresh red ,english chilies1 #a pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,pound or cut the chilies in half1 and infuse them in the vinegar for a fortnight1 when it will be fit for use4 ,this will be found an agreeable relish to fish1 as many people cannot eat it without the addition of an acid and cayenne pepper4 ,,christopher ,,north',s ,,sauce ,,for ,,meat ,,or ,,game4 #cid4 ,,ingredients4-#a glass of port wine1 #b tablespoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce1 #a dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup1 ditto of pounded white sugar1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of cayenne pepper1 ditto of salt4 ,mode4--,mix all the ingredients thoroughly together1 and heat the sauce gradually1 by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,do not allow it to boil1 and serve directly it is ready4 ,this sauce1 if bottled immediately1 will keep good for a fortnight1 and will be found excellent4 ,,consomme1 or ,,white ,,stock ,,for ,,many ,,sauces4 #cie4 ,consomm is made precisely in the same manner as stock ,no4 #ajg1 and1 for ordinary purposes1 will be found quite good enough4 ,when1 however1 a stronger stock is desired1 either put in half the quantity of water1 or double that of the meat4 ,this is a very good foundation for all white sauces4 ,,crab ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish 7equal to ,lobster ,sauce74 #cif4 ,,ingredients4--#a crab2 salt1 pounded mace1 and cayenne to taste2 #a_/b pint of melted butter made with milk 7see ,no4 #chj74 ,mode4--,choose a nice fresh crab1 pick all the meat away from the shell1 and cut it into small square pieces4 ,make #a_/b pint of melted butter by recipe ,no4 #chj1 put in the fish and seasoning2 let it gradually warm through1 and simmer for #b minutes4 ,it should not boil4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,,cream ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish ,,or ,,white ,,dishes4 #cig4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/c pint of cream1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 salt and cayenne to taste2 when liked1 a small quantity of pounded mace or lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,put the butter in a very clean saucepan1 dredge in the flour1 and keep shaking round till the butter is melted4 ,add the seasoning and cream1 and stir the whole till it boils2 let it just simmer for #e minutes1 when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste1 to give it a flavour4 ,time4--#e minutes to simmer4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #g;d4 ,this sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot4 ,,cucumber ,,sauce4 #cih4 ,,ingredients4--#c or #d cucumbers1 #b oz4 of butter1 #f tablespoonfuls of brown gravy4 ,mode4--,peel the cucumbers1 quarter them1 and take out the seeds2 cut them into small pieces2 put them in a cloth1 and rub them well1 to take out the water which hangs about them4 ,put the butter in a saucepan1 add the cucumbers1 and shake them over a sharp fire until they are of a good colour4 ,then pour over it the gravy1 mix this with the cucumbers1 and simmer gently for #aj minutes1 when it will be ready to serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,,pickled ,,cucumbers4 #cii4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of whole pepper1 #a oz4 of bruised ginger2 sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers4 ,mode4--,cut the cucumbers in thick slices1 sprinkle salt over them1 and let them remain for #bd hours4 ,the next day1 drain them well for #f hours1 put them into a jar1 pour boiling vinegar over them1 and keep them in a warm place4 ,in a short time1 boil up the vinegar again1 add pepper and ginger in the above proportion1 and instantly cover them up4 ,tie them down with bladder1 and in a few days they will be fit for use4 ,illustration3 ,,long ,,pepper4 ,,long ,,pepper4--,this is the produce of a different plant from that which produces the black1 it consisting of the half-ripe flower-heads of what naturalists call ,piper longum and chaba4 ,it is the growth1 however1 of the same countries2 indeed1 all the spices are the produce of tropical climates only4 ,originally1 the most valuable of these were found in the ,spice ,islands1 or ,moluccas1 of the ,indian ,ocean1 and were highly prized by the nations of antiquity4 ,the ,romans indulged in them to a most extravagant degree4 ,the long pepper is less aromatic than the black1 but its oil is more pungent4 ,,cucumber ,,sauce1 ,,white4 #djj4 ,,ingredients4--#c or four cucumbers1 #a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 cayenne and salt to taste1 the yolks of #c eggs4 ,mode4--,cut the cucumbers into small pieces1 after peeling them and taking out the seeds4 ,put them in a stewpan with the white stock and seasoning2 simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender1 which will be in about #a_/d hour4 ,then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten2 stir them to the sauce1 but do not allow it to boil1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,,cucumber ,,vinegar 7a very nice ,addition to ,salads74 #dja4 ,,ingredients4--#aj large cucumbers1 or #ab smaller ones1 #a quart of vinegar1 #b onions1 #b shalots1 #a tablespoonful of salt1 #b tablespoonfuls of pepper1 #a_/d teaspoonful of cayenne4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the cucumbers1 put them in a stone jar or wide-mouthed bottle1 with the vinegar2 slice the onions and shalots1 and add them1 with all the other ingredients1 to the cucumbers4 ,let it stand #d or #e days1 boil it all up1 and when cold1 strain the liquor through a piece of muslin1 and store it away in small bottles well sealed4 ,this vinegar is a very nice addition to gravies1 hashes1 e41 as well as a great improvement to salads1 or to eat with cold meat4 ,,german ,,method ,,of ,,keeping ,,cucumbers ,,for ,,winter ,,use4 #djb4 ,,ingredients4--,cucumbers1 salt4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the cucumbers 7as for the table71 sprinkle well with salt1 and let them remain for #bd hours2 strain off the liquor1 pack in jars1 a thick layer of cucumbers and salt alternately2 tie down closely1 and1 when wanted for use1 take out the quantity required4 ,now wash them well in fresh water1 and dress as usual with pepper1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cucumber4 ,,the ,,cucumber4--,though the melon is far superior in point of flavour to this fruit1 yet it is allied to the cucumber1 which is known to naturalists as ,cucumia sativus4 ,the modern ,egyptians1 as did their forefathers1 still eat it1 and others of its class4 ,cucumbers were observed1 too1 by ,bishop ,heber1 beyond the ,ganges1 in ,india2 and ,burckhardt noticed them in ,palestine4 7,see ,no4 #abg47 ,,an ,,excellent ,,way ,,of ,,preserving ,,cucumbers4 #djc4 ,,ingredients4--,salt and water2 #a lb4 of lump sugar1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a oz4 of ginger1 cucumbers4 ,mode4--,choose the greenest cucumbers1 and those that are most free from seeds2 put them in strong salt and water1 with a cabbage-leaf to keep them down2 tie a paper over them1 and put them in a warm place till they are yellow2 then wash them and set them over the fire in fresh water1 with a very little salt1 and another cabbage-leaf over them2 cover very closely1 but take care they do not boil4 ,if they are not a fine green1 change the water again1 cover them as before1 and make them hot4 ,when they are a good colour1 take them off the fire and let them cool2 cut them in quarters1 take out the seeds and pulp1 and put them into cold water4 ,let them remain for #b days1 changing the water twice each day1 to draw out the salt4 ,put the sugar1 with #a_/d pint of water1 in a saucepan over the fire2 remove the scum as it rises1 and add the lemon-peel and ginger with the outside scraped off2 when the syrup is tolerably thick1 take it off the fire1 and when cold1 wipe the cucumbers dry1 and put them in4 ,boil the syrup once in #b or #c days for #c weeks2 strengthen it if required1 and let it be quite cold before the cucumbers are put in4 ,great attention must be paid to the directions in the commencement of this recipe1 as1 if these are not properly carried out1 the result will be far from satisfactory4 ,seasonable4--,this recipe should be used in ,june1 ,july1 or ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,salt-,,mine ,,at ,,northwich4 ,,common ,,salt4--,by this we mean salt used for cooking purposes1 which is found in great abundance both on land and in the waters of the ocean4 ,sea or salt water1 as it is often called1 contains1 it has been discovered1 about three per cent1 of salt on an average4 ,solid rocks of salt are also found in various parts of the world1 and the county of ,chester contains many of these mines1 and it is from there that much of our salt comes4 ,some springs are so highly impregnated with salt1 as to have received the name of brine springs1 and are supposed to have become so by passing through the salt rocks below ground1 and thus dissolving a portion of this mineral substance4 ,we here give an engraving of a salt-mine at ,northwich1 ,cheshire1 where both salt-mines and brine-springs are exceedingly productive1 and are believed to have been wrought so far back as during the occupation of ,britain by the ,romans4 ,,custard ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings ,,or ,,tarts4 #djd4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #b eggs1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,mode4--,put the milk in a very clean saucepan1 and let it boil4 ,beat the eggs1 stir to them the milk and pounded sugar1 and put the mixture into a jug4 ,place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water2 keep stirring well until it thickens1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,serve the sauce in a tureen1 stir in the brandy1 and grate a little nutmeg over the top4 ,this sauce may be made very much nicer by using cream instead of milk2 but the above recipe will be found quite good enough for ordinary purposes4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for #b fruit tarts1 or #a pudding4 ,,dutch ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish4 #dje4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b teaspoonful of flour1 #b oz4 of butter1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 the yolks of #b eggs1 the juice of #a_/b lemon2 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients1 except the lemon-juice1 into a stew-pan2 set it over the fire1 and keep continually stirring4 ,when it is sufficiently thick1 take it off1 as it should not boil4 ,if1 however1 it happens to curdle1 strain the sauce through a tammy1 add the lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain1 and1 by many1 is considered far preferable4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,note4--,this sauce may be poured hot over salad1 and left to get quite cold1 when it should be thick1 smooth1 and somewhat stiff4 ,excellent salads may be made of hard eggs1 or the remains of salt fish flaked nicely from the bone1 by pouring over a little of the above mixture when hot1 and allowing it to cool4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,lemon4 ,,the ,,lemon4--,this fruit is a native of ,asia1 and is mentioned by ,virgil as an antidote to poison4 ,it is hardier than the orange1 and1 as one of the citron tribe1 was brought into ,europe by the ,arabians4 ,the lemon was first cultivated in ,england in the beginning of the #agth century1 and is now often to be found in our green-houses4 ,the kind commonly sold1 however1 is imported from ,portugal1 ,spain1 and the ,azores4 ,some also come from ,st4 ,helena2 but those from ,spain are esteemed the best4 ,its juice is now an essential for culinary purposes2 but as an antiscorbutic its value is still greater4 ,this juice1 which is called citric acid1 may be preserved in bottles for a considerable time1 by covering it with a thin stratum of oil4 ,shrub is made from it with rum and sugar4 ,,green ,,dutch ,,sauce1 or ,,hollandaise ,,verte4 #djf4 ,,ingredients4--#f tablespoonfuls of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne1 a little parsley-green to colour1 the juice of #a_/b a lemon4 ,mode4--,put the ,bchamel into a saucepan with the seasoning1 and bring it to a boil4 ,make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in a mortar1 and squeezing all the juice from it4 ,let this just simmer1 when add it to the sauce4 ,a moment before serving1 put in the lemon-juice1 but not before2 for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow1 and its appearance be thus spoiled4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,b,,chamel ,,sauce--,this sauce takes its name from a ,monsieur ,bchamel1 a rich ,french financier1 who1 according to ,borne authorities1 invented it2 whilst others affirm he only patronized it4 ,be this as it may1 it is one of the most pleasant sauces which come to table1 and should be most carefully and intelligently prepared4 ,it is frequently used1 as in the above recipe1 as a principal ingredient and basis for other sauces4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,eggs4 #djg4 ,,ingredients4--#af eggs1 #a quart of vinegar1 #a_/b oz4 of ,black pepper1 #a_/b oz4 of ,jamaica pepper1 #a_/b oz4 of ginger4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs for #ab minutes1 then dip them into cold water1 and take off the shells4 ,put the vinegar1 with the pepper and ginger1 into a stewpan1 and let it simmer for #aj minutes4 ,now place the eggs in a jar1 pour over them the vinegar1 c41 boiling hot1 and1 when cold1 tie them down with bladder to exclude the air4 ,this pickle will be ready for use in a month4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made about ,easter1 as at this time eggs are plentiful and cheap4 ,a store of pickled eggs will be found very useful and ornamental in serving with many first and second course dishes4 ,illustration3 ,,ginger4 ,the ginger-plant1 known to naturalists as ,zingiber officinale1 is a native1 of the ,east and ,west ,indies4 ,it grows somewhat like the lily of the valley1 but its height is about three feet4 ,in ,jamaica it flowers about ,august or ,september1 fading about the end of the year4 ,the fleshy creeping roots1 which form the ginger of commerce1 are in a proper state to be dug when the stalks are entirely withered4 ,this operation is usually performed in ,january and ,february2 and when the roots are taken out of the earth1 each one is picked1 scraped1 separately washed1 and afterwards very carefully dried4 ,ginger is generally considered as less pungent and heating to the system than might he expected from its effects on the organs of taste1 and it is frequently used1 with considerable effect1 as an anti-spasmodic and carminative4 ,,egg ,,balls ,,for ,,soups ,,and ,,made ,,dishes4 #djh4 ,,ingredients4--#h eggs1 a little flour2 seasoning to taste of salt4 ,mode4--,boil #f eggs for #bj minutes1 strip off the shells1 take the yolks and pound them in a mortar4 ,beat the yolks of the other #b eggs2 add them1 with a little flour and salt1 to those pounded2 mix all well together1 and roll into balls4 ,boil them before they are put into the soup or other dish they may be intended for4 ,time4--#bj minutes to boil the eggs4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #h;d4 ,sufficient1 #b dozen balls for #a tureen of soup4 ,,egg ,,sauce ,,for ,,salt ,,fish4 #dji4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf2 when liked1 a very little lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs until quite hard1 which will be in about #bj minutes1 and put them into cold water for #a_/b hour4 ,strip off the shells1 chop the eggs into small pieces1 not1 however1 too fine4 ,make the melted butter very smoothly1 by recipe ,no4 #cgf1 and1 when boiling1 stir in the eggs1 and serve very hot4 ,lemon-juice may be added at pleasure4 ,time4--#bj minutes to boil the eggs4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient4--,this quantity for #c or #d lbs4 of fish4 ,note4--,when a thicker sauce is required1 use one or two more eggs to the same quantity of melted butter4 ,,epicurean ,,sauce ,,for ,,steaks1 ,,chops1 ,,gravies1 ,,or ,,fish4 #daj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d pint of walnut ketchup1 #a_/d pint of mushroom ditto1 #b tablespoonfuls of ,indian soy1 #b tablespoonfuls of port wine2 #a_/d oz4 of white pepper1 #b oz4 of shalots1 #a_/d oz4 of cayenne1 #a_/d oz4 of cloves1 #c_/d pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle1 and let it remain for a fortnight in a warm place1 occasionally shaking up the contents4 ,strain1 and bottle off for use4 ,this sauce will be found an agreeable addition to gravies1 hashes1 stews1 c4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 #f;d4 ,illustration3 ,,shalot4 ,,shalot1 ,,or ,,eschalot4--,this plant is supposed to have been introduced to ,england by the ,crusaders1 who found it growing wild in the vicinity of ,ascalon4 ,it is a bulbous root1 and when full grown1 its leaves wither in ,july4 ,they ought to be taken up in the autumn1 and when dried in the house1 will keep till spring4 ,it is called by old authors the barren onion1 and is used in sauces and pickles1 soups and made dishes1 and as an accompaniment to chops and steaks4 ,,espagnole1 ,,or ,,brown ,,spanish ,,sauce4 #daa4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of lean ham1 #a lb4 of veal1 #a-a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg2 #b or #c sprigs of parsley1 #a_/b a bay-leaf1 #b or #c sprigs of savoury herbs1 #f green onions1 #c shalots1 #b cloves1 #a blade of mace1 #b glasses of sherry or ,madeira1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces1 and put them into a stewpan4 ,moisten these with #a_/b pint of the stock ,no4 #ajg1 and simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-coloured glaze1 when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it4 ,add the remainder of the stock1 with the spices1 herbs1 shalots1 and onions1 and simmer very gently for #a hour4 ,strain and skim off every particle of fat1 and when required for use1 thicken with butter and flour1 or with a little roux4 ,add the wine1 and1 if necessary1 a seasoning of cayenne2 when it will be ready to serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per pint4 ,note4--,the wine in this sauce may be omitted1 and an onion sliced and fried of a nice brown substituted for it4 ,this sauce or gravy is used for many dishes1 and with most people is a general favourite4 ,,fennel ,,sauce ,,for ,,mackerel4 #dab4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf1 rather more than #a tablespoonful of chopped fennel4 ,mode4--,make the melted butter very smoothly1 by recipe ,no4 #cgf2 chop the fennel rather small1 carefully cleansing it from any grit or dirt1 and put it to the butter when this is on the point of boiling4 ,simmer for a minute or two1 and serve in a tureen4 ,time4--#b minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient to serve with #e or #f mackerel4 ,illustration3 ,,fennel4 ,,fennel4--,this elegantly-growing plant1 of which the ,latin name is ,anethum foeniculum1 grows best in chalky soils1 where1 indeed1 it is often found wild4 ,it is very generally cultivated in gardens1 and has much improved on its original form4 ,various dishes are frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful leaves1 and these are sometimes boiled in soups1 although it is more usually confined1 in ,english cookery1 to the mackerel sauce as here given4 ,,fish ,,sauce4 #dac4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of cayenne1 #b tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup1 #b tablespoonfuls of soy1 a few shreds of garlic and shalot1 #a quart of vinegar4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a large bottle1 and shake well every day for a fortnight4 ,keep it in small bottles well sealed1 and in a few days it will be fit for use4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 ,,forcemeat ,,balls ,,for ,,fish ,,soups4 #dad4 ,,ingredients4--#a middling-sized lobster1 #a_/b an anchovy1 #a head of boiled celery1 the yolk of a hard-boiled egg2 salt1 cayenne1 and mace to taste2 #d tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,pick the meat from the shell of the lobster1 and pound it1 with the soft parts1 in a mortar2 add the celery1 the yolk of the hard-boiled egg1 seasoning1 and bread crumbs4 ,continue pounding till the whole is nicely amalgamated4 ,warm the butter till it is in a liquid state2 well whisk the eggs1 and work these up with the pounded lobster-meat4 ,make into balls of about an inch in diameter1 and fry of a nice pale brown4 ,sufficient1 from #ah to #bj balls for #a tureen of soup4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,cold ,,savoury ,,pies4 #dae4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of veal1 #a lb4 of fat bacon2 salt1 cayenne1 pepper1 and pounded mace to taste2 a very little nutmeg1 the same of chopped lemon-peel1 #a_/b teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs1 #a or #b eggs4 ,mode4--,chop the veal and bacon together1 and put them in a mortar with the other ingredients mentioned above4 ,pound well1 and bind with #a or #b eggs which have been previously beaten and strained4 ,work the whole well together1 and the forcemeat will be ready for use4 ,if the pie is not to be eaten immediately1 omit the herbs and parsley1 as these would prevent it from keeping4 ,mushrooms or truffles may be added4 ,sufficient for #b small pies4 ,illustration3 ,,marjoram4 ,,marjoram4--,although there are several species of marjoram1 that which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram1 is the one usually preferred in cookery4 ,it is a native of ,portugal1 and when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb1 they have an agreeable aromatic flavour4 ,the winter sweet marjoram used for the same purposes1 is a native of ,greece1 and the pot-marjoram is another variety brought from ,sicily4 ,all of them are favourite ingredients in soups1 stuffings1 c4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,pike1 ,,carp1 ,,haddock1 ,,and ,,various ,,kinds ,,of ,,fish4 #daf4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of fresh butter1 #a oz4 of suet1 #a oz4 of fat bacon1 #a small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs1 including parsley2 a little onion1 when liked1 shredded very fine2 salt1 nutmeg1 and cayenne to taste2 #d oz4 of bread crumbs1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,mix all the ingredients well together1 carefully mincing them very finely2 beat up the egg1 moisten with it1 and work the whole very smoothly together4 ,oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat1 and will be found a great improvement4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized haddock or pike4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,veal1 ,,turkeys1 ,,fowls1 ,,hare1 c4 #dag4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of ham or lean bacon1 #a_/d lb4 of suet1 the rind of half a lemon1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 #a teaspoonful of minced sweet herbs2 salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace to taste2 #f oz4 of bread crumbs1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,shred the ham or bacon1 chop the suet1 lemon-peel1 and herbs1 taking particular care that all be very finely minced2 add a seasoning to taste1 of salt1 cayenne1 and mace1 and blend all thoroughly together with the bread crumbs1 before wetting4 ,now beat and strain the eggs1 work these up with the other ingredients1 and the forcemeat will be ready for use4 ,when it is made into balls1 fry of a nice brown1 in boiling lard1 or put them on a tin and bake for #a_/b hour in a moderate oven4 ,as we have stated before1 no one flavour should predominate greatly1 and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to cut with a knife1 and yet not dry and heavy4 ,for very delicate forcemeat1 it is advisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg2 but for ordinary cooking1 mincing very finely answers the purpose4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for a turkey1 a moderate-sized fillet of veal1 or a hare4 ,note4--,in forcemeat for ,,hare1 the liver of the animal is sometimes added4 ,boil for #e minutes1 mince it very small1 and mix it with the other ingredients4 ,if it should be in an unsound state1 it must be on no account made use of4 ,illustration3 ,,basil4 ,,sweet ,,herbs4--,those most usually employed for purposes of cooking1 such as the flavouring of soups1 sauces1 forcemeats1 c41 are thyme1 sage1 mint1 marjoram1 savory1 and basil4 ,other sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes of medicine and perfumery3 they are most grateful both to the organs of taste and smelling2 and to the aroma derived from them is due1 in a great measure1 the sweet and exhilarating fragrance of our flowery meads4 ,in town1 sweet herbs have to be procured at the greengrocers' or herbalists'1 whilst1 in the country1 the garden should furnish all that are wanted1 the cook taking great care to have some dried in the autumn for her use throughout the winter months4 ,,forcemeat ,,for ,,baked ,,pike4 #dah4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of bread crumbs1 #a teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs1 #h oysters1 #b anchovies 7these may be dispensed with71 #b oz4 of suet2 salt1 pepper1 and pounded mace to taste2 #f tablespoonfuls of cream or milk1 the yolks of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,beard and mince the oysters1 prepare and mix the other ingredients by recipe ,no4 #daf1 and blend the whole thoroughly together4 ,moisten with the cream and eggs1 put all into a stewpan1 and stir it over the fire till it thickens1 when put it into the fish1 which should have previously been cut open1 and sew it up4 ,time4--#d or #f minutes to thicken4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized pike4 ,,french ,,forcemeat4 #dai4 ,it will be well to state1 in the beginning of this recipe1 that ,french forcemeat1 or quenelles1 consist of the blending of three separate processes2 namely1 panada1 udder1 and whatever meat you intend using4 ,,panada4 #dbj4 ,,ingredients4--,the crumb of #b penny rolls1 #d tablespoonfuls of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a slice of ham1 #a bay-leaf1 a little minced parsley1 #b shalots1 #a clove1 #b blades of mace1 a few mushrooms 7when obtainable71 butter1 the yolks of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about #a_/b hour1 then take it out1 and squeeze so as to press the milk from it2 put the soaked bread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock1 and set it on one side2 then put into a separate stewpan #a oz4 of butter1 a slice of lean ham cut small1 with a bay-leaf1 herbs1 mushrooms1 spices1 c41 in the above proportions1 and fry them gently over a slow fire4 ,when done1 moisten with #b teacupfuls of white stock1 boil for #bj minutes1 and strain the whole through a sieve over the panada in the other stewpan4 ,place it over the fire1 keep constantly stirring1 to prevent its burning1 and when quite dry1 put in a small piece of butter4 ,let this again dry up by stirring over the fire2 then add the yolks of #b eggs1 mix well1 put the panada to cool on a clean plate1 and use it when required4 ,panada should always be well flavoured1 as the forcemeat receives no taste from any of the other ingredients used in its preparation4 ,boiled ,calf's ,udder for ,french ,forcemeats4 #dba4 ,put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it2 let it stew gently till quite done1 when take it out to cool4 ,trim all the upper parts1 cut it into small pieces1 and pound well in a mortar1 till it can be rubbed through a sieve4 ,that portion which passes through the strainer is one of the three ingredients of which ,french forcemeats are generally composed2 but many cooks substitute butter for this1 being a less troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation4 ,illustration3 ,,pestle ,,and ,,mortar4 ,,pestle ,,and ,,mortar4--,no cookery can be perfectly performed without the aid of the useful instruments shown in the engraving4 ,for pounding things sufficiently fine1 they are invaluable1 and the use of them will save a good deal of time1 besides increasing the excellence of the preparations4 ,they are made of iron1 and1 in that material1 can be bought cheap2 but as these are not available1 for all purposes1 we should recommend1 as more economical in the end1 those made of ,wedgwood1 although these are considerably more expensive than the former4 ,veal ,quenelles4 #dbb4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of veal1 panada 7,no4 #dbj71 and calf's udder 7,no4 #dba71 #b eggs2 seasoning to taste of pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace1 or grated nutmeg2 a little flour4 ,mode4--,take the fleshy part of veal1 scrape it with a knife1 till all the meat is separated from the sinews1 and allow about #a_/b lb4 for an entre4 ,chop the meat1 and pound it in a mortar till reduced to a paste2 then roll it into a ball2 make another of panada 7,no4 #dbj71 the same size1 and another of udder 7,no4 #dba71 taking care that these three balls be of the same size4 ,it is to be remembered1 that equality of size1 and not of weight1 is here necessary4 ,when the three ingredients are properly prepared1 pound them altogether in a mortar for some time2 for the more quenelles are pounded1 the more delicate they are4 ,now moisten with the eggs1 whites and yolks1 and continue pounding1 adding a seasoning of pepper1 spices1 c4 ,when the whole is well blended together1 mould it into balls1 or whatever shape is intended1 roll them in flour1 and poach in boiling water1 to which a little salt should have been added4 ,if the quenelles are not firm enough1 add the yolk of another egg1 but omit the white1 which only makes them hollow and puffy inside4 ,in the preparation of this recipe1 it would be well to bear in mind that the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned1 and must be made hard or soft according to the dishes they are intended for4 ,for brown or white ragots they should be firm1 and when the quenelles are used very small1 extreme delicacy will be necessary in their preparation4 ,their flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit1 fowl1 hare1 pheasant1 grouse1 or an extra quantity of mushroom1 parsley1 c4 ,time1--,about #a_/d hour to poach in boiling water4 ,sufficient1 #a_/b lb4 of veal or other meat1 with other ingredients in proportion1 for #a entre4 ,note4--,the ,french are noted for their skill in making forcemeats2 one of the principal causes of their superiority in this respect being1 that they pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly4 ,any one with the slightest pretensions to refined cookery1 must1 in this particular1 implicitly follow the example of our friends across the ,channel4 ,,forcemeat1 or ,,quenelles1 ,,for ,,turtle ,,soup4 7,see ,no4 #ahi47 #dbc4 ,,soyer',s ,,recipe ,,for ,,forcemeats4--,take a pound and a half of lean veal from the fillet1 and cut it in long thin slices2 scrape with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains2 put it in a mortar1 pound it #aj minutes1 or until in a pure2 pass it through a wire sieve 7use the remainder in stock72 then take #a pound of good fresh beef suet1 which skin1 shred1 and chop very fine2 put it in a mortar and pound it2 then add #f oz4 of panada 7that is1 bread soaked in milk and boiled till nearly dry7 with the suet2 pound them well together1 and add the veal2 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of pepper1 half that of nutmeg2 work all well together2 then add four eggs by degrees1 continually pounding the contents of the mortar4 ,when well mixed1 take a small piece in a spoon1 and poach it in some boiling water2 and if it is delicate1 firm1 and of a good flavour1 it is ready for use4 ,,fried ,,bread ,,crumbs4 #dbd4 ,cut the bread into thin slices1 place them in a cool oven overnight1 and when thoroughly dry and crisp1 roll them down into fine crumbs4 ,put some lard1 or clarified dripping1 into a frying-pan2 bring it to the boiling-point1 throw in the crumbs1 and fry them very quickly4 ,directly they are done1 lift them out with a slice1 and drain them before the fire from all greasy moisture4 ,when quite crisp1 they are ready for use4 ,the fat they are fried in should be clear1 and the crumbs should not have the slightest appearance or taste of having been1 in the least degree1 burnt4 ,,fried ,,sippets ,,of ,,bread 7for ,garnishing many ,dishes74 #dbe4 ,cut the bread into thin slices1 and stamp them out in whatever shape you like1--rings1 crosses1 diamonds1 c4 c4 ,fry them in the same manner as the bread crumbs1 in clear boiling lard1 or clarified dripping1 and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the fire4 ,when variety is desired1 fry some of a pale colour1 and others of a darker hue4 ,,fried ,,bread ,,for ,,borders4 #dbf4 ,proceed as above1 by frying some slices of bread cut in any fanciful shape4 ,when quite crisp1 dip one side of the sippet into the beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour1 and place it on the edge of the dish4 ,continue in this manner till the border is completed1 arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately4 ,,genevese ,,sauce ,,for ,,salmon1 ,,trout1 c4 #dbg4 ,,ingredients4--#a small carrot1 a small faggot of sweet herbs1 including parsley1 #a onion1 #e or #f mushrooms 7when obtainable71 #a bay-leaf1 #f cloves1 #a blade of mace1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a glass of sherry1 #a-a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 thickening of butter and flour1 the juice of half a lemon4 ,mode4--,cut up the onion and carrot into small rings1 and put them into a stewpan with the herbs1 mushrooms1 bay-leaf1 cloves1 and mace2 add the butter1 and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until the onion is quite tender4 ,pour in the stock and sherry1 and stew slowly for #a hour1 when strain it off into a clean saucepan4 ,now make a thickening of butter and flour1 put it to the sauce1 stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth and mellow1 add the lemon-juice1 give one boil1 when it will be ready for table4 ,time4--,altogether #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d per pint4 ,sufficient1 half this quantity for two slices of salmon4 ,illustration3 ,,sage4 ,,sage4--,this was originally a native of the south of ,europe1 but it has long been cultivated in the ,english garden4 ,there are several kinds of it1 known as the green1 the red1 the small-leaved1 and the broad-leaved balsamic4 ,in cookery1 its principal use is for stuffings and sauces1 for which purpose the red is the most agreeable1 and the green the next4 ,the others are used for medical purposes4 ,,pickled ,,gherkins4 #dbh4 ,,ingredients4--,salt and water1 #a oz4 of bruised ginger1 #a_/b oz4 of whole black pepper1 #a_/d oz4 of whole allspice1 #d cloves1 #b blades of mace1 a little horseradish4 ,this proportion of pepper1 spices1 c41 for #a quart of vinegar4 ,mode4--,let the gherkins remain in salt and water for #c or #d days1 when take them out1 wipe perfectly dry1 and put them into a stone jar4 ,boil sufficient vinegar to cover them1 with spices and pepper1 c41 in the above proportion1 for #aj minutes2 pour it1 quite boiling1 over the gherkins1 cover the jar with vine-leaves1 and put over them a plate1 setting them near the fire1 where they must remain all night4 ,next day drain off the vinegar1 boil it up again1 and pour it hot over them4 ,cover up with fresh leaves1 and let the whole remain till quite cold4 ,now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air1 and in a month or two1 they will be fit for use4 ,time4--#d days4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,july to the end of ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,gherkins4 ,,gherkins4--,gherkins are young cucumbers2 and the only way in which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them1 as by the recipe here given4 ,not having arrived at maturity1 they have not1 of course1 so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers1 and1 as a pickle1 they are very general favourites4 ,,gooseberry ,,sauce ,,for ,,boiled ,,mackerel4 #dbi4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of green gooseberries1 #c tablespoonfuls of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg 7veal gravy may be substituted for this71 #b oz4 of fresh butter2 seasoning to taste of salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender2 strain them1 and rub them through a sieve4 ,put into a saucepan the ,bchamel or gravy1 with the butter and seasoning2 add the pulp from the gooseberries1 mix all well together1 and heat gradually through4 ,a little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement1 as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit4 ,time4--,boil the gooseberries from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a large dish of mackerel4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,july4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,gooseberry4 ,,the ,,gooseberry4--,this useful and wholesome fruit 7,ribes grossularia7 is thought to be indigenous to the ,british ,isles1 and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the eastern counties1 although1 when uncultivated1 it is but a very small and inferior berry4 ,the high state of perfection to which it has been here brought1 is due to the skill of the ,english gardeners2 for in no other country does it attain the same size and flavour4 ,the humidity of the ,british climate1 however1 has doubtless something to do with the result2 and it is said that gooseberries produced in ,scotland as far north as ,inverness1 are of a very superior character4 ,malic and citric acid blended with sugar1 produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry2 and upon the proper development of these properties depends the success of all cooking operations with which they are connected4 ,,glaze ,,for ,,covering ,,cold ,,hams1 ,,tongues1 c4 #dcj4 ,,ingredients4--,stock ,no4 #ajd or #ajg1 doubling the quantity of meat in each4 ,mode4--,we may remark at the outset1 that unless glaze is wanted in very large quantities1 it is seldom made expressly4 ,either of the stocks mentioned above1 boiled down and reduced very considerably1 will be found to produce a very good glaze4 ,put the stock into a stewpan1 over a nice clear fire2 let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff1 when keep stirring1 to prevent its burning4 ,the moment it is sufficiently reduced1 and comes to a glaze1 turn it out into the glaze-pot1 of which we have here given an engraving4 ,as1 however1 this is not to be found in every establishment1 a white earthenware jar would answer the purpose2 and this may be placed in a vessel of boiling water1 to melt the glaze when required4 ,it should never be warmed in a saucepan1 except on the principle of the bain marie1 lest it should reduce too much1 and become black and bitter4 ,if the glaze is wanted of a pale colour1 more veal than beef should be used in making the stock2 and it is as well to omit turnips and celery1 as these impart a disagreeable bitter flavour4 ,,to ,,glaze ,,cold ,,joints1 c4--,melt the glaze by placing the vessel which contains it1 into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling water2 brush it over the meat with a paste-brush1 and if in places it is not quite covered1 repeat the operation4 ,the glaze should not be too dark a colour4 7,see ,coloured ,cut of ,glazed ,ham1 ,p47 ,illustration3 ,,glaze-,,kettle4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bain ,,marie4 ,,glaze-,,kettle4--,this is a kettle used for keeping the strong stock boiled down to a jelly1 which is known by the name of glaze4 ,it is composed of two tin vessels1 as shown in the cut1 one of which1 the upper1--containing the glaze1 is inserted into one of larger diameter and containing boiling water4 ,a brush is put in the small hole at the top of the lid1 and is employed for putting the glaze on anything that may require it4 ,,the ,,bain ,,marie4--,so long ago as the time when emperors ruled in ,rome1 and the yellow ,tiber passed through a populous and wealthy city1 this utensil was extensively employed2 and it is frequently mentioned by that profound culinary chemist of the ancients1 ,apicius4 ,it is an open kind of vessel 7as shown in the engraving and explained in our paragraph ,no4 #hg1 on the ,french terms used in modern cookery71 filled with boiling or nearly boiling water2 and into this water should be put all the stewpans containing those ingredients which it is desired to keep hot4 ,the quantity and quality of the contents of these vessels are not at all affected2 and if the hour of dinner is uncertain in any establishment1 by reason of the nature of the master's business1 nothing is so certain a means of preserving the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain marie4 ,,green ,,sauce ,,for ,,green ,,geese ,,or ,,ducklings4 #dca4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d pint of sorrel-juice1 #a glass of sherry1 #a_/b pint of green gooseberries1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #a oz4 of fresh butter4 ,mode4--,boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender2 mash them and press them through a sieve2 put the pulp into a saucepan with the above ingredients2 simmer for #c or #d minutes1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#c or #d minutes4 ,note4--,we have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese1 thinking that some of our readers might sometimes require it2 but1 at the generality of fashionable tables1 it is now seldom or never served4 ,illustration3 ,,sorrel4 ,,sorrel4--,we gather from the pages of ,pliny and ,apicius1 that sorrel was cultivated by the ,romans in order to give it more strength and flavour1 and that they also partook of it sometimes stewed with mustard1 being seasoned with a little oil and vinegar4 ,at the present day1 ,english cookery is not much indebted to this plant 7,rumex ,acetosa71 although the ,french make use of it to a considerable extent4 ,it is found in most parts of ,great ,britain1 and also on the continent1 growing wild in the grass meadows1 and1 in a few gardens1 it is cultivated4 ,the acid of sorrel is very prononc1 and is what chemists term a binoxalate of potash2 that is1 a combination of oxalic acid with potash4 ,,general ,,stock ,,for ,,gravies4 #dcb4 ,either of the stocks1 ,nos4 #ajd1 #aje1 or #ajg1 will be found to answer very well for the basis of many gravies1 unless these are wanted very rich indeed4 ,by the addition of various store sauces1 thickening and flavouring1 the stocks here referred to may be converted into very good gravies4 ,it should be borne in mind1 however1 that the goodness and strength of spices1 wines1 flavourings1 c41 evaporate1 and that they lose a great deal of their fragrance1 if added to the gravy a long time before they are wanted4 ,if this point is attended to1 a saving of one half the quantity of these ingredients will be effected1 as1 with long boiling1 the flavour almost entirely passes away4 ,the shank-bones of mutton1 previously well soaked1 will be found a great assistance in enriching gravies2 a kidney or melt1 beef skirt1 trimmings of meat1 c4 c41 answer very well when only a small quantity is wanted1 and1 as we have before observed1 a good gravy need not necessarily be so very expensive2 for economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes found as savoury and wholesome as dearer ones4 ,the cook should also remember that the fragrance of gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice1 or any strong essences1 and that they should always be warmed in a bain marie1 after they are flavoured1 or else in a jar or jug placed in a saucepan full of boiling water4 ,the remains of roast-meat gravy should always be saved2 as1 when no meat is at hand1 a very nice gravy in haste may be made from it1 and when added to hashes1 ragots1 c41 is a great improvement4 ,illustration3 ,,gravy-,,kettle4 ,,gravy-,,kettle4--,this is a utensil which will not be found in every kitchen2 but it is a useful one where it is necessary to keep gravies hot for the purpose of pouring over various dishes as they are cooking4 ,it is made of copper1 and should1 consequently1 be heated over the hot plate1 if there be one1 or a charcoal stove4 ,the price at which it can be purchased is set down by ,messrs4 ,slack at #ads4 ,,gravy ,,for ,,roast ,,meat4 #dcc4 ,,ingredients4--,gravy1 salt4 ,mode4--,put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under the meat1 about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire4 ,when the dish is full1 take it away1 baste the meat1 and pour the gravy into the dish on which the joint is to be served4 ,,sauces ,,and ,,gravies ,,in ,,the ,,middle ,,ages4--,neither poultry1 butcher's meat1 nor roast game were eaten dry in the middle ages1 any more than fried fish is now4 ,different sauces1 each having its own peculiar flavour1 were served with all these dishes1 and even with the various parts of each animal4 ,strange and grotesque sauces1 as1 for example1 eggs cooked on the spit1 butter fried and roasted1 were invented by the cooks of those days2 but these preparations had hardly any other merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make4 ,a ,,quickly-,,made ,,gravy4 #dcd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of shin of beef1 #a_/b onion1 #a_/d carrot1 #b or #c sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs1 a piece of butter about the size of a walnut2 cayenne and mace to taste1 #c_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the meat into very small pieces1 slice the onion and carrot1 and put them into a small saucepan with the butter4 ,keep stirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour1 when add the water and the remaining ingredients4 ,simmer for #a_/b hour1 skim well1 strain1 and flavour1 when it will be ready for use4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #e;d4 ,a ,,hundred ,,different ,,dishes4--,modern housewives know pretty well how much care1 and attention1 and foresight are necessary in order to serve well a little dinner for six or eight persons1--a dinner which will give credit to the mnage1 and satisfaction and pleasure to the guests4 ,a quickly-made gravy1 under some circumstances that we have known occur1 will be useful to many housekeepers when they have not much time for preparation4 ,but1 talking of speed1 and time1 and preparation1 what a combination of all these must have been necessary for the feast at the wedding of ,charles ,,vi4 of ,france4 ,on that occasion1 as ,froissart the chronicler tells us1 the art of cooking1 with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces1 with gravy1 pepper1 cinnamon1 garlic1 scallion1 brains1 gravy soups1 milk potage1 and ragots1 had a signal triumph4 ,the skilful chef-de-cuisine of the royal household covered the great marble table of the regal palace with no less than a hundred different dishes1 prepared in a hundred different ways4 ,a ,,good ,,beef ,,gravy ,,for ,,poultry1 ,,game1 c4 #dce4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of lean beef1 #a_/b pint of cold water1 #a shalot or small onion1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of salt1 a little pepper1 #a tablespoonful of ,harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of arrowroot4 ,mode4--,cut up the beef into small pieces1 and put it1 with the water1 into a stewpan4 ,add the shalot and seasoning1 and simmer gently for #c hours1 taking care that it does not boil fast4 ,a short time before it is required1 take the arrowroot1 and having mixed it with a little cold water1 pour it into the gravy1 which keep stirring1 adding the ,harvey's sauce1 and just letting it boil4 ,strain off the gravy in a tureen1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per pint4 ,,brown ,,gravy4 #dcf4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of butter1 #b large onions1 #b lbs4 of shin of beef1 #b small slices of lean bacon 7if at hand71 salt and whole pepper to taste1 #c cloves1 #b quarts of water4 ,for thickening1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c oz4 of flour4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a stewpan2 set this on the fire1 throw in the onions cut in rings1 and fry them a light brown2 then add the beef and bacon1 which should be cut into small square pieces2 season1 and pour in a teacupful of water2 let it boil for about ten minutes1 or until it is of a nice brown colour1 occasionally stirring the contents4 ,now fill up with water in the above proportion2 let it boil up1 when draw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for #a-a_/b hour2 strain1 and when cold1 take off all the fat4 ,in thickening this gravy1 melt #c oz4 of butter in a stewpan1 add #b oz4 of flour1 and stir till of a light-brown colour2 when cold1 add it to the strained gravy1 and boil it up quickly4 ,this thickening may be made in larger quantities1 and kept in a stone jar for use when wanted4 ,time4--,altogether1 #b hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per pint4 ,,cloves4--,this very agreeable spice is the unexpanded flower-buds of the ,caryophyllus aromaticus1 a handsome1 branching tree1 a native of the ,malacca ,islands4 ,they take their name from the ,latin word clavus1 or the ,french clou1 both meaning a nail1 and to which the clove has a considerable resemblance4 ,cloves were but little known to the ancients1 and ,pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions them2 and he says1 vaguely enough1 that some were brought to ,rome1 very similar to grains of pepper1 but somewhat longer2 that they were only to be found in ,india1 in a wood consecrated to the gods2 and that they served in the manufacture of perfumes4 ,the ,dutch1 as in the case of the nutmeg 7see #cgh71 endeavoured1 when they gained possession of the ,spice ,islands1 to secure a monopoly of cloves1 and1 so that the cultivation of the tree might be confined to ,amboyna1 their chief island1 bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all trees found elsewhere4 ,the ,amboyna1 or royal clove1 is said to be the best1 and is rare2 but other kinds1 nearly equally good1 are produced in other parts of the world1 and they come to ,europe from ,mauritius1 ,bourbon1 ,cayenne1 and ,martinique1 as also from ,st4 ,kitts1 ,st4 ,vincent's1 and ,trinidad4 ,the clove contains about #bj per cent4 of volatile aromatic oil1 to which it owes its peculiar pungent flavour1 its other parts being composed of woody fibre1 water1 gum1 and resin4 ,,brown ,,gravy ,,without ,,meat4 #dcg4 ,,ingredients4--#b large onions1 #a large carrot1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c pints of boiling water1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 a wineglassful of good beer2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,slice1 flour1 and fry the onions and carrots in the butter until of a nice light-brown colour2 then add the boiling water and the remaining ingredients2 let the whole stew gently for about an hour2 then strain1 and when cold1 skim off all the fat4 ,thicken it in the same manner as recipe ,no4 #dcf1 and1 if thought necessary1 add a few drops of colouring ,no4 #ajh4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per pint4 ,note4--,the addition of a small quantity of mushroom ketchup or ,harvey's sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy4 ,,rich ,,gravy ,,for ,,hashes1 ,,ragouts1 c4 #dch4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of shin of beef1 #a large onion or a few shalots1 a little flour1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b blades of mace1 #b or #c cloves1 #d whole allspice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of whole pepper1 #a slice of lean ham or bacon1 #a_/b a head of celery 7when at hand71 #b pints of boiling water2 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into thin slices1 as also the onions1 dredge them with flour1 and fry of a pale brown1 but do not allow them to get black2 pour in the boiling water1 let it boil up2 and skim4 ,add the remaining ingredients1 and simmer the whole very gently for #b hours1 or until all the juices are extracted from the meat2 put it by to get cold1 when take off all the fat4 ,this gravy may be flavoured with ketchup1 store sauces1 wine1 or1 in fact1 anything that may give additional and suitable relish to the dish it is intended for4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per pint4 ,illustration3 ,,pimento4 ,,allspice4--,this is the popular name given to pimento1 or ,jamaica pepper1 known to naturalists as ,eugenia pimenta1 and belonging to the order of ,myrtaceae4 ,it is the berry of a fine tree in the ,west ,indies and ,south ,america1 which attains a height of from fifteen to twenty feet3 the berries are not allowed to ripen1 but1 being gathered green1 are then dried in the sun1 and then become black4 ,it is an inexpensive spice1 and is considered more mild and innocent than most other spices2 consequently1 it is much used for domestic purposes1 combining a very agreeable variety of flavours4 ,,gravy ,,made ,,without ,,meat ,,for ,,fowls4 #dci4 ,,ingredients4--,the necks1 feet1 livers1 and gizzards of the fowls1 #a slice of toasted bread1 #a_/b onion1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a_/b pint of water1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a dessertspoonful of ketchup4 ,mode4--,wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean1 and cut them and the neck into small pieces4 ,put these into a stewpan with the bread1 onion1 herbs1 seasoning1 livers1 and gizzards2 pour the water over them and simmer gently for #a hour4 ,now take out the liver1 pound it1 and strain the liquor to it4 ,add a thickening of butter and flour1 and a flavouring of mushroom ketchup2 boil it up and serve4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per pint4 ,a ,,cheap ,,gravy ,,for ,,hashes1 c4 #ddj4 ,,ingredients4--,bones and trimmings of the cooked joint intended for hashing1 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/d teaspoonful of whole pepper1 #a_/d teaspoonful of whole allspice1 a small faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/b head of celery1 #a onion1 #a oz4 of butter1 thickening1 sufficient boiling water to cover the bones4 ,mode4--,chop the bones in small pieces1 and put them in a stewpan1 with the trimmings1 salt1 pepper1 spice1 herbs1 and celery4 ,cover with boiling water1 and let the whole simmer gently for #a-a_/b or #b hours4 ,slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown1 and mix it gradually with the gravy made from the bones2 boil for #a_/d hour1 and strain into a basin2 now put it back into the stewpan2 flavour with walnut pickle or ketchup1 pickled-onion liquor1 or any store sauce that may be preferred4 ,thicken with a little butter and flour1 kneaded together on a plate1 and the gravy will be ready for use4 ,after the thickening is added1 the gravy should just boil1 to take off the rawness of the flour4 ,time4--#b hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #d;d41 exclusive of the bones and trimmings4 ,,jugged ,,gravy 7,excellent74 #dda4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of shin of beef1 #a_/d lb4 of lean ham1 #a onion or a few shalots1 #b pints of water1 salt and whole pepper to taste1 #a blade of mace1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/b a large carrot1 #a_/b a head of celery4 ,mode4--,cut up the beef and ham into small pieces1 and slice the vegetables2 take a jar1 capable of holding two pints of water1 and arrange therein1 in layers1 the ham1 meat1 vegetables1 and seasoning1 alternately1 filling up with the above quantity of water2 tie down the jar1 or put a plate over the top1 so that the steam may not escape2 place it in the oven1 and let it remain there from #f to #h hours2 should1 however1 the oven be very hot1 less time will be required4 ,when sufficiently cooked1 strain the gravy1 and when cold1 remove the fat4 ,it may be flavoured with ketchup1 wines1 or any other store sauce that may be preferred4 ,it is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven over-night1 to draw the gravy2 and then it will not require so long baking the following day4 ,time4--,from #f to #h hours1 according to the oven4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per pint4 ,illustration3 ,,celery4 ,,celery4--,as in the above recipe1 the roots of celery are principally used in ,england for flavouring soups1 sauces1 and gravies1 and for serving with cheese at the termination of a dinner1 and as an ingredient for salad4 ,in ,italy1 however1 the green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups1 and the seeds are also more frequently made use of on the continent than in our own islands4 ,in ,germany1 celery is very highly esteemed2 and it is there boiled and served up as a dish by itself1 as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes4 ,we ourselves think that this mild aromatic plant might oftener be cooked than it is2 for there are very few nicer vegetable preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of stewed celery4 ,,veal ,,gravy ,,for ,,white ,,sauces1 ,,fricassees1 c4 #ddb4 ,,ingredients4--#b slices of nicely flavoured lean ham1 any poultry trimmings1 #c lbs4 of lean veal1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 a few green onions 7or #a large onion may be substituted for these71 a few mushrooms1 when obtainable2 #a blade of mace1 salt to taste1 #c pints of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces1 put these in a stewpan1 moistening them with a small quantity of water2 place them over the fire to draw down4 ,when the bottom of the stewpan becomes covered with a white glaze1 fill up with water in the above proportion2 add the remaining ingredients1 stew very slowly for #c or #d hours1 and do not forget to skim well the moment it boils4 ,put it by1 and1 when cold1 take off all the fat4 ,this may be used for ,bchamel1 sauce tourne1 and many other white sauces4 ,time4--#c or #d hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per pint4 ,,cheap ,,gravy ,,for ,,minced ,,veal4 #ddc4 ,,ingredients4--,bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 #a onion1 #a_/d teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt1 #a blade of pounded mace1 the juice of #a_/d lemon2 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a stewpan1 except the thickening and lemon-juice1 and let them simmer very gently for rather more than #a hour1 or until the liquor is reduced to a pint1 when strain through a hair-sieve4 ,add a thickening of butter and flour1 and the lemon-juice2 set it on the fire1 and let it just boil up1 when it will be ready for use4 ,it may be flavoured with a little tomato sauce1 and1 where a rather dark-coloured gravy is not objected to1 ketchup1 or ,harvey's sauce1 may be added at pleasure4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 ,,gravy ,,for ,,venison4 #ddd4 ,,ingredients4--,trimmings of venison1 #c or #d mutton shank-bones1 salt to taste1 #a pint of water1 #b teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup4 ,mode4--,brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire1 and put them in a stewpan with the shank-bones and water2 simmer gently for #b hours1 strain and skim1 and add the walnut ketchup and a seasoning of salt4 ,let it just boil1 when it is ready to serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,deer4 ,,venison4--,far1 far away in ages past1 our fathers loved the chase1 and what it brought2 and it is usually imagined that when ,isaac ordered his son ,esau to go out with his weapons1 his quiver and his bow1 and to prepare for him savoury meat1 such as he loved1 that it was venison he desired4 ,the wise ,solomon1 too1 delighted in this kind of fare2 for we learn that1 at his table1 every day were served the wild ox1 the roebuck1 and the stag4 ,xenophon informs us1 in his ,history1 that ,cyrus1 king of ,persia1 ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts2 and of the effeminate ,greeks it was the delight4 ,the ,romans1 also1 were devoted admirers of the flesh of the deer2 and our own kings and princes1 from the ,great ,alfred down to the ,prince ,consort1 have hunted1 although1 it must be confessed1 under vastly different circumstances1 the swift buck1 and relished their haunch all the more keenly1 that they had borne themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal4 ,,to ,,dry ,,herbs ,,for ,,winter ,,use4 #dde4 ,on a very dry day1 gather the herbs1 just before they begin to flower4 ,if this is done when the weather is damp1 the herbs will not be so good a colour4 7,it is very necessary to be particular in little matters like this1 for trifles constitute perfection1 and herbs nicely dried will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on the ground4 ,it is hardly necessary1 however1 to state that the flavour and fragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably finer47 ,they should be perfectly freed from dirt and dust1 and be divided into small bunches1 with their roots cut off4 ,dry them quickly in a very hot oven1 or before the fire1 as by this means most of their flavour will be preserved1 and be careful not to burn them2 tie them up in paper bags1 and keep in a dry place4 ,this is a very general way of preserving dried herbs2 but we would recommend the plan described in a former recipe4 ,seasonable4--,from the month of ,july to the end of ,september is the proper time for storing herbs for winter use4 ,,herb ,,powder ,,for ,,flavouring1 when ,fresh ,herbs are not obtainable4 #ddf4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of dried lemon-thyme1 #a oz4 of dried winter savory1 #a oz4 of dried sweet marjoram and basil1 #b oz4 of dried parsley1 #a oz4 of dried lemon-peel4 ,mode4--,prepare and dry the herbs by recipe ,no4 #dde2 pick the leaves from the stalks1 pound them1 and sift them through a hair-sieve2 mix in the above proportions1 and keep in glass bottles1 carefully excluding the air4 ,this1 we think1 a far better method of keeping herbs1 as the flavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when they are merely put in paper bags4 ,preparing them in this way1 you have them ready for use at a moment's notice4 ,mint1 sage1 parsley1 c41 dried1 pounded1 and each put into separate bottles1 will be found very useful in winter4 ,illustration3 ,,cork ,,with ,,wooden ,,top4 ,,corks ,,with ,,wooden ,,tops4--,these are the best corks to use when it is indispensable that the air should not be admitted to the ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use4 ,the top1 which1 as will be seen by the accompanying little cut1 is larger than the cork1 is made of wood2 and1 besides effectually covering the whole top of the bottle1 can be easily removed and again used1 as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out4 ,,savory4--,this we find described by ,columella1 a voluminous ,roman writer on agriculture1 as an odoriferous herb1 which1 in the brave days of old1 entered into the seasoning of nearly every dish4 ,verily1 there are but few new things under the sun1 and we don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy1 at least beyond what was known to the ancient inhabitants of ,italy4 ,we possess two varieties of this aromatic herb1 known to naturalists as ,satureja4 ,they are called summer and winter savory1 according to the time of the year when they are fit for gathering4 ,both sorts are in general cultivation throughout ,england4 ,,horseradish ,,sauce1 to serve with ,roast ,beef4 #ddg4 ,,ingredients4--#d tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper1 #b teaspoonfuls of made mustard2 vinegar4 ,mode4--,grate the horseradish1 and mix it well with the sugar1 salt1 pepper1 and mustard2 moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it the consistency of cream1 and serve in a tureen3 #c or #d tablespoonfuls of cream added to the above1 very much improve the appearance and flavour of this sauce4 ,to heat it to serve with hot roast beef1 put it in a bain marie or a jar1 which place in a saucepan of boiling water2 make it hot1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,note4--,this sauce is a great improvement on the old-fashioned way of serving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef4 ,the mixing of the cold vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils everything on the plate4 ,of course1 with cold meat1 the sauce should be served cold4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,horseradish4 ,,the ,,horseradish4--,this has been1 for many years1 a favourite accompaniment of roast beef1 and is a native of ,england4 ,it grows wild in wet ground1 but has long been cultivated in the garden1 and is1 occasionally1 used in winter salads and in sauces4 ,on account of the great volatility of its oil1 it should never be preserved by drying1 but should be kept moist by being buried in sand4 ,so rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate1 that even when scraped for the table1 it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the air4 ,,horseradish ,,vinegar4 #ddh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of scraped horseradish1 #a oz4 of minced shalot1 #a drachm of cayenne1 #a quart of vinegar4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a bottle1 which shake well every day for a fortnight4 ,when it is thoroughly steeped1 strain and bottle1 and it will be fit for use immediately4 ,this will be found an agreeable relish to cold beef1 c4 ,seasonable4--,this vinegar should be made either in ,october or ,november1 as horseradish is then in its highest perfection4 ,,indian ,,curry-,,powder1 founded on ,dr4 ,kitchener's ,recipe4 #ddi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of coriander-seed1 #a_/d lb4 of turmeric1 #b oz4 of cinnamon-seed1 #a_/b oz4 of cayenne1 #a oz4 of mustard1 #a oz4 of ground ginger1 #a_/b ounce of allspice1 #b oz4 of fenugreek-seed4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients in a cool oven1 where they should remain one night2 then pound them in a mortar1 rub them through a sieve1 and mix thoroughly together2 keep the powder in a bottle1 from which the air should be completely excluded4 ,note4--,we have given this recipe for curry-powder1 as some persons prefer to make it at home2 but that purchased at any respectable shop is1 generally speaking1 far superior1 and1 taking all things into consideration1 very frequently more economical4 ,,indian ,,mustard1 an excellent ,relish to ,bread and ,butter1 or any cold ,meat4 #dej4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of the best mustard1 #a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/b oz4 of salt1 #d shalots1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #d tablespoonfuls of ketchup1 #a_/d bottle of anchovy sauce4 ,mode4--,put the mustard1 flour1 and salt into a basin1 and make them into a stiff paste with boiling water4 ,boil the shalots with the vinegar1 ketchup1 and anchovy sauce1 for #aj minutes1 and pour the whole1 boiling1 over the mixture in the basin2 stir well1 and reduce it to a proper thickness2 put it into a bottle1 with a bruised shalot at the bottom1 and store away for use4 ,this makes an excellent relish1 and if properly prepared will keep for years4 ,illustration3 ,,mustard4 ,,mustard4--,before the year #agbi1 mustard was not known at ,english tables4 ,about that time an old woman1 of the name of ,clements1 residing in ,durham1 began to grind the seed in a mill1 and to pass the flour through several processes necessary to free the seed from its husks4 ,she kept her secret for many years to herself1 during which she sold large quantities of mustard throughout the country1 but especially in ,london4 ,here it was introduced to the royal table1 when it received the approval of ,george ,i4 ,from the circumstance of ,mrs4 ,clements being a resident at ,durham1 it obtained the name of ,durham mustard4 ,in the county of that name it is still principally cultivated1 and the plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth4 ,it is the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive organs1 and even in its previously coarsely-pounded state1 had a high reputation with our ancestors4 ,,indian ,,pickle 7very ,superior74 #dea4 ,,ingredients4--,to each gallon of vinegar allow #f cloves of garlic1 #ab shalots1 #b sticks of sliced horseradish1 #a_/d lb4 of bruised ginger1 #b oz4 of whole black pepper1 #a oz4 of long pepper1 #a oz4 of allspice1 #ab cloves1 #a_/d oz4 of cayenne1 #b oz4 of mustard-seed1 #a_/d lb4 of mustard1 #a oz4 of turmeric2 a white cabbage1 cauliflowers1 radish-pods1 ,french beans1 gherkins1 small round pickling-onions1 nasturtiums1 capsicums1 chilies1 c4 ,mode4--,cut the cabbage1 which must be hard and white1 into slices1 and the cauliflowers into small branches2 sprinkle salt over them in a large dish1 and let them remain two days2 then dry them1 and put them into a very large jar1 with garlic1 shalots1 horseradish1 ginger1 pepper1 allspice1 and cloves1 in the above proportions4 ,boil sufficient vinegar to cover them1 which pour over1 and1 when cold1 cover up to keep them free from dust4 ,as the other things for the pickle ripen at different times1 they may be added as they are ready3 these will be radish-pods1 ,french beans1 gherkins1 small onions1 nasturtiums1 capsicums1 chilies1 c4 c4 ,as these are procured1 they must1 first of all1 be washed in a little cold vinegar1 wiped1 and then simply added to the other ingredients in the large jar1 only taking care that they are covered by the vinegar4 ,if more vinegar should be wanted to add to the pickle1 do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the rest4 ,when you have collected all the things you require1 turn all out in a large pan1 and thoroughly mix them4 ,now put the mixed vegetables into smaller jars1 without any of the vinegar2 then boil the vinegar again1 adding as much more as will be required to fill the different jars1 and also cayenne1 mustard-seed1 turmeric1 and mustard1 which must be well mixed with a little cold vinegar1 allowing the quantities named above to each gallon of vinegar4 ,pour the vinegar1 boiling hot1 over the pickle1 and when cold1 tie down with a bladder4 ,if the pickle is wanted for immediate use1 the vinegar should be boiled twice more1 but the better way is to make it during one season for use during the next4 ,it will keep for years1 if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered by the vinegar4 ,this recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle was always pronounced excellent by all who tasted it1 and who has1 for many years1 exactly followed the recipe given above4 ,note4--,for small families1 perhaps the above quantity of pickle will be considered too large2 but this may be decreased at pleasure1 taking care to properly proportion the various ingredients4 ,illustration3 ,,india ,,pickle4 ,,keeping ,,pickles4--,nothing shows more1 perhaps1 the difference between a tidy thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these desirable epithets may not honestly be applied1 than the appearance of their respective store-closets4 ,the former is able1 the moment anything2 is wanted1 to put her hand on it at once2 no time is lost1 no vexation incurred1 no dish spoilt for the want of just little something1--the latter1 on the contrary1 hunts all over her cupboard for the ketchup the cook requires1 or the pickle the husband thinks he should like a little of with his cold roast beef or mutton-chop1 and vainly seeks for the ,embden groats1 or arrowroot1 to make one of her little boys some gruel4 ,one plan1 then1 we strenuously advise all who do not follow1 to begin at once1 and that is1 to label all their various pickles and store sauces1 in the same way as the cut here shows4 ,it will occupy a little time at first1 but there will be economy of it in the long run4 ,,vinegar4--,this term is derived from the two ,french words vin aigre1 'sour wine1' and should1 therefore1 be strictly applied to that which is made only from wine4 ,as the acid is the same1 however it is procured1 that made from ale also takes the same name4 ,nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of vinegar4 ,we learn in ,ruth1 that the reapers in the ,east soaked their bread in it to freshen it4 ,the ,romans kept large quantities of it in their cellars1 using it1 to a great extent1 in their seasonings and sauces4 ,this people attributed very beneficial qualities to it1 as it was supposed to be digestive1 antibilious1 and antiscorbutic1 as well as refreshing4 ,spartianus1 a ,latin historian1 tells us that1 mixed with water1 it was the drink of the soldiers1 and that1 thanks to this beverage1 the veterans of the ,roman army braved1 by its use1 the inclemency and variety of all the different seasons and climates of ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa4 ,it is said1 the ,spanish peasantry1 and other inhabitants of the southern parts of ,europe1 still follow this practice1 and add to a gallon of water about a gill of wine vinegar1 with a little salt2 and that this drink1 with a little bread1 enables them1 under the heat of their burning sun1 to sustain the labours of the field4 ,,indian ,,chetney ,,sauce4 #deb4 ,,ingredients4--#h oz4 of sharp1 sour apples1 pared and cored2 #h oz4 of tomatoes1 #h oz4 of salt1 #h oz4 of brown1 sugar1 #h oz4 of stoned raisins1 #d oz4 of cayenne1 #d oz4 of powdered ginger1 #b oz4 of garlic1 #b oz4 of shalots1 #c quarts of vinegar1 #a quart of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,chop the apples in small square pieces1 and add to them the other ingredients4 ,mix the whole well together1 and put in a well-covered jar4 ,keep this in a warm place1 and stir every day for a month1 taking care to put on the lid after this operation2 strain1 but do not squeeze it dry2 store it away in clean jars or bottles for use1 and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish4 ,seasonable4--,make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season1 that is1 from the beginning of ,september to the end of ,october4 ,,pickles4--,the ancient ,greeks and ,romans held their pickles in high estimation4 ,they consisted of flowers1 herbs1 roots1 and vegetables1 preserved in vinegar1 and which were kept1 for a long time1 in cylindrical vases with wide mouths4 ,their cooks prepared pickles with the greatest care1 and the various ingredients were macerated in oil1 brine1 and vinegar1 with which they were often impregnated drop by drop4 ,meat1 also1 after having been cut into very small pieces1 was treated in the same manner4 ,,italian ,,sauce 7,brown74 #dec4 ,,ingredients4--,a few chopped mushrooms and shalots1 #a_/b pint of stock1 ,no4 #aje1 #a_/b glass of ,madeira1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,mode4--,put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms1 shalots1 and ,madeira1 and stew gently for #a_/d hour1 then add the remaining ingredients1 and let them just boil4 ,when the sauce is done enough1 put it in another stewpan1 and warm it in a bain marie4 7,see ,no4 #dcj47 ,the mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted1 as they will then become black4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for a small dish4 ,,italian ,,sauce 7,white74 #ded4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg2 #b tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms1 #a dessertspoonful of chopped shalots1 #a slice of ham1 minced very fine2 #a_/d pint of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg2 salt to taste1 a few drops of garlic vinegar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 a squeeze of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and ham1 and simmer very gently for #a_/b hour1 when add the ,bchamel4 ,let it just boil up1 and then strain it through a tammy2 season with the above ingredients1 and serve very hot4 ,if this sauce should not have retained a nice white colour1 a little cream may be added4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized dish4 ,note4--,to preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling1 throw them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,lemons ,,with ,,the ,,peel ,,on4 #dee4 ,,ingredients4--#f lemons1 #b quarts of boiling water2 to each quart of vinegar allow #a_/b oz4 of cloves1 #a_/b oz4 of white pepper1 #a oz4 of bruised ginger1 #a_/d oz4 of mace and chilies1 #a oz4 of mustard-seed1 #a_/b stick of sliced horseradish1 a few cloves of garlic4 ,mode4--,put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg2 let them remain in it #f days1 stirring them every day2 have ready #b quarts of boiling water1 put in the lemons1 and allow them to boil for #a_/d hour2 take them out1 and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold4 ,boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons1 with all the above ingredients1 allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of vinegar4 ,pack the lemons in a jar1 pour over the vinegar1 c4 boiling hot1 and tie down with a bladder4 ,they will be fit for use in about #ab months1 or rather sooner4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made from ,november to ,april4 ,,the ,,lemon4--,in the earlier ages of the world1 the lemon does not appear to have been at all known1 and the ,romans only became acquainted with it at a very late period1 and then only used it to keep moths from their garments4 ,its acidity would seem to have been unpleasant to them2 and in ,pliny's time1 at the commencement of the ,christian era1 this fruit was hardly accepted1 otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the effects of poison4 ,many anecdotes have been related concerning the anti-venomous properties of the lemon2 ,athenaeus1 a ,latin writer1 telling us1 that on one occasion1 two men felt no effects from the bites of dangerous serpents1 because they had previously eaten of this fruit4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,lemons ,,without ,,the ,,peel4 #def4 ,,ingredients4--#f lemons1 #a lb4 of fine salt2 to each quart of vinegar1 the same ingredients as ,no4 #dee4 ,mode4--,peel the lemons1 slit each one down #c times1 so as not to divide them1 and rub the salt well into the divisions2 place them in a pan1 where they must remain for a week1 turning them every other day2 then put them in a ,dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has become perfectly dry2 then arrange them in a jar4 ,pour over sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them1 to which have been added the ingredients mentioned in the foregoing recipe2 tie down closely1 and in about #i months they will be fit for use4 ,seasonable4--,the best time to make this is from ,november to ,april4 ,note4--,after this pickle has been made from #d to #e months1 the liquor may be strained and bottled1 and will be found an excellent lemon ketchup4 ,,lemon-,,juice4--,citric acid is the principal component part of lemon-juice1 which1 in addition to the agreeableness of its flavour1 is also particularly cooling and grateful4 ,it is likewise an antiscorbutic2 and this quality enhances its value4 ,in order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews of ships at sea1 a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served out to the men2 and by this practice1 the disease has almost entirely disappeared4 ,by putting the juice into bottles1 and pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it1 it may be preserved for a considerable time4 ,italy and ,turkey export great quantities of it in this manner4 ,,lemon ,,sauce ,,for ,,boiled ,,fowls4 #deg4 ,,ingredients4--#a small lemon1 #c_/d pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #chj4 ,mode4--,cut the lemon into very thin slices1 and these again into very small dice4 ,have ready #c_/d pint of melted butter1 made by recipe ,no4 #chj2 put in the lemon2 let it just simmer1 but not boil1 and pour it over the fowls4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a pair of large fowls4 ,,lemon ,,white ,,sauce1 ,,for ,,fowls1 ,,fricassees1 c4 #deh4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d pint of cream1 the rind and juice of #a lemon1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole white pepper1 #a sprig of lemon thyme1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a teacupful of white stock2 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put the cream into a very clean saucepan 7a lined one is best71 with the lemon-peel1 pepper1 and thyme1 and let these infuse for #a_/b hour1 when simmer gently for a few minutes1 or until there is a nice flavour of lemon4 ,strain it1 and add a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions2 stir this well in1 and put in the lemon-juice at the moment of serving2 mix the stock with the cream1 and add a little salt4 ,this sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient1 this quantity1 for a pair of large boiled fowls4 ,note4--,where the expense of the cream is objected to1 milk may be substituted for it4 ,in this case1 an additional dessertspoonful1 or rather more1 of flour must be added4 ,illustration3 ,,lemon ,,thyme4 ,,lemon ,,thyme4--,two or three tufts of this species of thyme1 ,thymus citriodorus1 usually find a place in the herb compartment of the kitchen-garden4 ,it is a trailing evergreen1 is of smaller growth than the common kind 7see ,no4 #aff71 and is remarkable for its smell1 which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon4 ,hence its distinctive name4 ,it is used for some particular dishes1 in which the fragrance of the lemon is desired to slightly predominate4 ,,leamington ,,sauce 7an ,excellent ,sauce for ,flavouring ,gravies1 ,hashes1 ,soups1 c474 7,author's ,recipe47 #dei4 ,,ingredients4--,walnuts4 ,to each quart of walnut-juice allow #c quarts of vinegar1 #a pint of ,indian soy1 #a oz4 of cayenne1 #b oz4 of shalots1 #c_/d oz4 of garlic1 #a_/b pint of port wine4 ,mode4--,be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market2 for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled4 ,pound them in a mortar to a pulp1 strew some salt over them1 and let them remain thus for two or three days1 occasionally stirring and moving them about4 ,press out the juice1 and to each quart of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar1 soy1 cayenne1 shalots1 garlic1 and port wine4 ,pound each ingredient separately in a mortar1 then mix them well together1 and store away for use in small bottles4 ,the corks should be well sealed4 ,seasonable4--,this sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable1 from the beginning to the middle of ,july4 ,,lemon ,,brandy4 #dfj4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of brandy1 the rind of two small lemons1 #b oz4 of loaf-sugar1 #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,peel the lemons rather thin1 taking care to have none of the white pith4 ,put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy1 and let them infuse for #bd hours1 when they should be strained4 ,now boil the sugar with the water for a few minutes1 skim it1 and1 when cold1 add it to the brandy4 ,a dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards4 ,,lemon ,,rind ,,or ,,peel4--,this contains an essential oil of a very high flavour and fragrance1 and is consequently esteemed both a wholesome and agreeable stomachic4 ,it is used1 as will be seen by many recipes in this book1 as an ingredient for flavouring a number of various dishes4 ,under the name of ,,candied ,,lemon-,,peel1 it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar1 when it becomes an excellent sweetmeat4 ,by the ancient medical philosopher ,galen1 and others1 it may be added1 that dried lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives1 and recommended to weak and delicate persons4 ,,liaison ,,of ,,eggs ,,for ,,thickening ,,sauces4 #dfa4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #c eggs1 #h tablespoonfuls of milk or cream4 ,mode4--,beat up the yolks of the eggs1 to which add the milk1 and strain the whole through a hair-sieve4 ,when the liaison is being added to the sauce it is intended to thicken1 care must be exercised to keep stirring it during the whole time1 or1 otherwise1 the eggs will curdle4 ,it should only just simmer1 but not boil4 ,,liver ,,and ,,lemon ,,sauce ,,for ,,poultry4 #dfb4 ,,ingredients4--,the liver of a fowl1 one lemon1 salt to taste1 #a_/b pint of melted butter4 ,no4 #cgf4 ,mode4--,wash the liver1 and let it boil for a few minutes2 peel the lemon very thin1 remove the white part and pips1 and cut it into very small dice2 mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine2 add these ingredients to #a_/b pint of smoothly-made melted butter2 season with a little salt1 put in the cut lemon1 heat it gradually1 but do not allow it to boil1 lest the butter should oil4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,sufficient to serve with a pair of small fowls4 ,,liver ,,and ,,parsley ,,sauce ,,for ,,poultry4 #dfc4 ,,ingredients4--,the liver of a fowl1 one tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf4 ,mode4--,wash and score the liver1 boil it for a few minutes1 and mince it very fine2 blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley1 of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon2 add this1 with the minced liver1 to #a_/b pint of smoothly-made melted butter2 let it just boil2 when serve4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,sufficient for a pair of small fowls4 ,,lobster ,,sauce1 to serve with ,turbot1 ,salmon1 ,brill1 c4 7,very ,good47 #dfd4 ,,ingredients4--#a middling-sized hen lobster1 #c_/d pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf2 #a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce1 #a_/b oz4 of butter1 salt and cayenne to taste1 a little pounded mace when liked1 #b or #c tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,mode4--,choose a hen lobster1 as this is indispensable1 in order to render this sauce as good as it ought to be4 ,pick the meat from the shells1 and cut it into small square pieces2 put the spawn1 which will be found under the tail of the lobster1 into a mortar with #a_/b oz4 of butter1 and pound it quite smooth2 rub it through a hair-sieve1 and cover up till wanted4 ,make #c_/d pint of melted butter by recipe ,no4 #cgf2 put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat1 and well mix the sauce before the lobster is added to it1 as it should retain its square form1 and not come to table shredded and ragged4 ,put in the meat1 let it get thoroughly hot1 but do not allow it to boil1 as the colour would immediately be spoiled2 for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance4 ,if it is intended to be served with turbot or brill1 a little of the spawn 7dried and rubbed through a sieve without butter7 should be saved to garnish with2 but as the goodness1 flavour1 and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having a proper quantity of spawn1 the less used for garnishing the better4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #bs4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient to serve with a small turbot1 a brill1 or salmon for #f persons4 ,note4--,melted butter made with milk1 ,no4 #chj1 will be found to answer very well for lobster sauce1 as by employing it a nice white colour will be obtained4 ,less quantity than the above may be made by using a very small lobster1 to which add only #a_/b pint of melted butter1 and season as above4 ,where economy is desired1 the cream may be dispensed with1 and the remains of a cold lobster left from table1 may1 with a little care1 be converted into a very good sauce4 ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,butter1 for putting into ,broiled ,fish just before it is sent to ,table4 #dfe4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b dessertspoonfuls of minced parsley1 salt and pepper to taste1 the juice of #a large lemon4 ,mode4--,work the above ingredients well together1 and let them be thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon4 ,if this is used as a sauce1 it may be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be served with4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #e;d4 ,note4--#d tablespoonfuls of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 #b do4 of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 with #b oz4 of the above matre d'htel butter stirred into it1 and just allowed to simmer for #a minute1 will be found an excellent hot matre d'htel sauce4 ,,the ,,ma,,tre ,d',h,,tel4--,the house-steward of ,england is synonymous with the matre d'htel of ,france2 and1 in ancient times1 amongst the ,latins1 he was called procurator1 or major-domo4 ,in ,rome1 the slaves1 after they had procured the various articles necessary for the repasts of the day1 would return to the spacious kitchen laden with meat1 game1 sea-fish1 vegetables1 fruit1 c4 ,each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the major-domo1 who would examine its contents and register them on his tablets1 placing in the pantry contiguous to the dining-room1 those of the provisions which need no preparation1 and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the cooks4 ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,sauce 7,,hot71 to serve with ,calf's ,head1 ,boiled ,eels1 and different ,fish4 #dff4 ,,ingredients4--#a slice of minced ham1 a few poultry-trimmings1 #b shalots1 #a clove of garlic1 #a bay-leaf1 #c_/d pint of water1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley2 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne to taste2 the juice of #a_/b large lemon1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham1 and over it the poultry-trimmings 7if these are not at hand1 veal should be substituted71 with the shalots1 garlic1 and bay-leaf4 ,pour in the water1 and let the whole simmer gently for #a hour1 or until the liquor is reduced to a full #a_/b pint4 ,then strain this gravy1 put it in another saucepan1 make a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions1 and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire1 until it is perfectly smooth and rather thick1 care being taken that the butter does not float on the surface4 ,skim well1 add the remaining ingredients1 let the sauce gradually heat1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,if this sauce is intended for an entre1 it is necessary to make it of a sufficient thickness1 so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient for re-warming the remains of #a_/b calf's head1 or a small dish of cold flaked turbot1 cod1 c4 ,,maigre ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,sauce 7,,hot74 7,made without ,meat47 #dfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf2 #a heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper to taste1 the juice of #a_/b large lemon2 when liked1 #b minced shalots4 ,mode4--,make #a_/b pint of melted butter1 by recipe ,no4 #cgf2 stir in the above ingredients1 and let them just boil2 when it is ready to serve4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per pint4 ,,mayonnaise1 a ,sauce or ,salad-,dressing for cold ,chicken1 ,meat1 and other cold ,dishes4 #dfh4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #b eggs1 #f tablespoonfuls of salad-oil1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #a tablespoonful of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,mode4--,put the yolks of the eggs into a basin1 with a seasoning of pepper and salt2 have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar1 in separate vessels2 add them very gradually to the eggs2 continue stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon1 as herein consists the secret of having a nice smooth sauce4 ,it cannot be stirred too frequently1 and it should be made in a very cool place1 or1 if ice is at hand1 it should be mixed over it4 ,when the vinegar and oil are well incorporated with the eggs1 add the stock and cream1 stirring all the time1 and it will then be ready for use4 ,for a fish ,mayonnaise1 this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn1 pounded2 and for poultry or meat1 where variety is desired1 a little parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance4 ,cucumber1 ,tarragon1 or any other flavoured vinegar1 may be substituted for plain1 where they are liked4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for a small salad4 ,note4--,in mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs1 put in first a few drops of oil1 and then a few drops of vinegar1 never adding a large quantity of either at one time4 ,by this means1 you can be more certain of the sauce not curdling4 ,patience and practice1 let us add1 are two essentials for making this sauce good4 ,,mint ,,sauce1 to serve with ,roast ,lamb4 #dfi4 ,,ingredients4--#d dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint1 #b dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar1 #a_/d pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,wash the mint1 which should be young and fresh-gathered1 free from grit2 pick the leaves from the stalks1 mince them very fine1 and put them into a tureen2 add the sugar and vinegar1 and stir till the former is dissolved4 ,this sauce is better by being made #b or #c hours before wanted for table1 as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with the flavour of the mint4 ,by many persons1 the above proportion of sugar would not be considered sufficient2 but as tastes vary1 we have given the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 ,sufficient to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb4 ,note4--,where green mint is scarce and not obtainable1 mint vinegar may be substituted for it1 and will be found very acceptable in early spring4 ,illustration3 ,,mint4 ,,mint4--,the common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the ,mentha viridis1 and is employed in different culinary processes1 being sometimes boiled with certain dishes1 and afterwards withdrawn4 ,it has an agreeable aromatic flavour1 and forms an ingredient in soups1 and sometimes is used in spring salads4 ,it is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic2 on which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup4 ,several of its species grow wild in low situations in the country4 ,,mint ,,vinegar4 #dgj4 ,,ingredients4--,vinegar1 mint4 ,mode4--,procure some nice fresh mint1 pick the leaves from the stalks1 and fill a bottle or jar with them4 ,add vinegar to them until the bottle is full2 cover closely to exclude the air1 and let it infuse for a fortnight4 ,then strain the liquor1 and put it into small bottles for use1 of which the corks should be sealed4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made in ,june1 ,july1 or ,august4 ,,mixed ,,pickle4 7,very ,good47 #dga4 ,,ingredients4--,to each gallon of vinegar allow #a_/d lb4 of bruised ginger1 #a_/d lb4 of mustard1 #a_/d lb4 of salt1 #b oz4 of mustard-seed1 #a-a_/b oz4 of turmeric1 #a oz4 of ground black pepper1 #a_/d oz4 of cayenne1 cauliflowers1 onions1 celery1 sliced cucumbers1 gherkins1 ,french beans1 nasturtiums1 capsicums4 ,mode4--,have a large jar1 with a tightly-fitting lid1 in which put as much vinegar as required1 reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste4 ,put into a basin the mustard1 turmeric1 pepper1 and cayenne2 mix them with vinegar1 and stir well until no lumps remain2 add all the ingredients to the vinegar1 and mix well4 ,keep this liquor in a warm place1 and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon1 when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it4 ,as these come into season1 have them gathered on a dry day1 and1 after merely wiping them with a cloth1 to free them from moisture1 put them into the pickle4 ,the cauliflowers1 it may be said1 must be divided into small bunches4 ,put all these into the pickle raw1 and at the end of the season1 when there have been added as many of the vegetables as could be procured1 store it away in jars1 and tie over with bladder4 ,as none of the ingredients are boiled1 this pickle will not be fit to eat till #ab months have elapsed4 ,whilst the pickle is being made1 keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar2 and its contents1 it may be repeated1 must be stirred every morning4 ,seasonable4--,make the pickle-liquor in ,may or ,june1 as the season arrives for the various vegetables to be picked4 ,,mushroom ,,ketchup4 #dgb4 ,,ingredients4--,to each peck of mushrooms #a_/b lb4 of salt2 to each quart of mushroom-liquor #a_/d oz4 of cayenne1 #a_/b oz4 of allspice1 #a_/b oz4 of ginger1 #b blades of pounded mace4 ,mode4--,choose full-grown mushroom-flaps1 and take care they are perfectly fresh-gathered when the weather is tolerably dry2 for1 if they are picked during very heavy rain1 the ketchup from which they are made is liable to get musty1 and will not keep long4 ,put a layer of them in a deep pan1 sprinkle salt over them1 and then another layer of mushrooms1 and so on alternately4 ,let them remain for a few hours1 when break them up with the hand2 put them in a nice cool place for #c days1 occasionally stirring and mashing them well1 to extract from them as much juice as possible4 ,now measure the quantity of liquor without straining1 and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices1 c4 ,put all into a stone jar1 cover it up very closely1 put it in a saucepan of boiling water1 set it over the fire1 and let it boil for #c hours4 ,have ready a nice clean stewpan2 turn into it the contents of the jar1 and let the whole simmer very gently for #a_/b hour2 pour it into a jug1 where it should stand in a cool place till the next day2 then pour it off into another jug1 and strain it into very dry clean bottles1 and do not squeeze the mushrooms4 ,to each pint of ketchup add a few drops of brandy4 ,be careful not to shake the contents1 but leave all the sediment behind in the jug2 cork well1 and either seal or rosin the cork1 so as perfectly to exclude the air4 ,when a very clear bright ketchup is wanted1 the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve1 or flannel bag1 after it has been very gently poured off2 if the operation is not successful1 it must be repeated until you have quite a clear liquor4 ,it should be examined occasionally1 and if it is spoiling1 should be reboiled with a few peppercorns4 ,seasonable from the beginning of ,september to the middle of ,october1 when this ketchup should be made4 ,note4--,this flavouring ingredient1 if genuine and well prepared1 is one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook1 and no trouble should be spared in its preparation4 ,double ketchup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity2 for example1 #a quart must be boiled down to #a pint4 ,this goes farther than ordinary ketchup1 as so little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy4 ,the sediment may also be bottled for immediate use1 and will be found to answer for flavouring thick soups or gravies4 ,,how ,,to ,,distinguish ,,mushrooms ,,from ,,toadstools4--,the cultivated mushroom1 known as ,agaricus campestris1 may be distinguished from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or flesh-coloured gills1 or under-side1 and by its invariably having an agreeable smell1 which the toadstool has not4 ,when young1 mushrooms are like a small round button1 both the stalk and head being white4 ,as they grow larger1 they expand their heads by degrees into a flat form1 the gills underneath being at first of a pale flesh-colour1 but becoming1 as they stand longer1 dark brown or blackish4 ,nearly all the poisonous kinds are brown1 and have in general a rank and putrid smell4 ,edible mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures1 but seldom grow in woods1 where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found4 ,,to ,,dry ,,mushrooms4 #dgc4 ,mode4--,wipe them clean1 take away the brown part1 and peel off the skin2 lay them on sheets of paper to dry1 in a cool oven1 when they will shrivel considerably4 ,keep them in paper bags1 which hang in a dry place4 ,when wanted for use1 put them into cold gravy1 bring them gradually to simmer1 and it will be found that they will regain nearly their usual size4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mushroom4 ,,the ,,mushroom4--,the cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of fungus1 which1 in ,england1 is considered the best1 and is there usually eaten4 ,the tribe1 however1 is numerous1 and a large proportion of them are poisonous2 hence it is always dangerous to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state4 ,in some parts of ,europe1 as in ,germany1 ,russia1 and ,poland1 many species grow wild1 and are used as food2 but in ,britain1 two only are generally eaten4 ,these are mostly employed for the flavouring of dishes1 and are also dried and pickled4 ,,catsup1 or ,,ketchup1 is made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice4 ,the young1 called buttons1 are the best for pickling when in the globular form4 ,,brown ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 to serve with ,roast ,meat1 c4 #dgd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of button mushrooms1 #a_/b pint of good beef gravy1 ,no4 #dce1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup 7if at hand71 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,put the gravy into a saucepan1 thicken it1 and stir over the fire until it boils4 ,prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks and wiping them free from grit and dirt2 the large flap mushrooms cut into small pieces will answer for a brown sauce1 when the buttons are not obtainable2 put them into the gravy1 and let them simmer very gently for about #aj minutes2 then add the ketchup1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #aj minutes4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,note4--,when fresh mushrooms are not obtainable1 the powder ,no4 #dgg may be used as a substitute for brown sauce4 ,,white ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 to serve with ,boiled ,fowls1 ,cutlets1 c4 ,i4 #dge4 ,,ingredients4--,rather more than #a_/b pint of button mushrooms1 lemon-juice and water1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice and water1 having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectly free from grit4 ,chop them1 and put them in a stewpan with the butter4 ,when the mushrooms are softened1 add the ,bchamel1 and simmer for about #e minutes2 should they1 however1 not be done enough1 allow rather more time4 ,they should not boil longer than necessary1 as they would then lose their colour and flavour4 ,rub the whole through a tammy1 and serve very hot4 ,after this1 it should be warmed in a bain marie4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,ii4 ,a ,more ,simple ,method4 #dgf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter1 made with milk1 ,no4 #chj2 #a_/b pint of button mushrooms1 #a dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup1 if at hand2 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,make the melted butter by recipe ,no4 #chj1 and add to it the mushrooms1 which must be nicely cleaned1 and free from grit1 and the stalks cut off4 ,let them simmer gently for about #aj minutes1 or until they are quite tender4 ,put in the seasoning and ketchup2 let it just boil1 when serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,mushroom ,,and ,,other ,,fungi4--,the quick growth of the mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of time they live1 and the numerous dangers they resist while they continue in the dormant state4 ,to spring up like a mushroom in a night is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity2 and this completely accords with all the observations which have been made concerning this curious class of plants4 ,mr4 ,sowerby remarks--,i have often placed specimens of the ,phallus caninus by a window over-night1 while in the egg-form1 and they have been fully grown by the morning4 ,,mushroom ,,powder 7a valuable addition to ,sauces and ,gravies1 when fresh ,mushrooms are not obtainable74 #dgg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b peck of large mushrooms1 #b onions1 #ab cloves1 #a_/d oz4 of pounded mace1 #b teaspoonfuls of white pepper4 ,mode4--,peel the mushrooms1 wipe them perfectly free from grit and dirt1 remove the black fur1 and reject all those that are at all worm-eaten2 put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients1 but without water2 shake them over a clear fire1 till all the liquor is dried up1 and be careful not to let them burn2 arrange them on tins1 and dry them in a slow oven2 pound them to a fine powder1 which put into small dry bottles2 cork well1 seal the corks1 and keep it in a dry place4 ,in using this powder1 add it to the gravy just before serving1 when it will merely require one boil-up4 ,the flavour imparted by this means to the gravy1 ought to be exceedingly good4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made in ,september1 or at the beginning of ,october4 ,note4--,if the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectly dry1 as1 also the mushroom powder1 it will keep good but a very short time4 ,,pickled ,,mushrooms4 #dgh4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms2 to each quart of mushrooms1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a oz4 of ground pepper1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling1 and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt1 and cut off the stalks2 if very large1 take out the red inside1 and reject the black ones1 as they are too old4 ,put them in a stewpan1 sprinkle salt over them1 with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion2 shake them well over a clear fire until the liquor flows1 and keep them there until it is all dried up again2 then add as much vinegar as will cover them2 just let it simmer for #a minute1 and store it away in stone jars for use4 ,when cold1 tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place2 they will remain good for a length of time1 and are generally considered delicious4 ,seasonable4--,make this the same time as ketchup1 from the beginning of ,september to the middle of ,october4 ,,nature ,,of ,,the ,,mushroom4--,locality has evidently a considerable influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom2 for it has been discovered1 after fatal experience1 that some species1 which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and pasturelands1 become virulently poisonous when they happen to grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and vegetable substances4 ,what the precise nature of the poison in fungi may be1 has not been accurately ascertained4 ,a ,,very ,,rich ,,and ,,good ,,mushroom ,,sauce1 to serve with ,fowls or ,rabbits4 #dgi4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of mushroom-buttons1 salt to taste1 a little grated nutmeg1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a pint of cream1 #b oz4 of butter1 flour to thicken4 ,mode4--,rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt1 to take off the skin2 cut off the stalks1 and put them in a stewpan with the above ingredients1 previously kneading together the butter and flour2 boil the whole for about ten minutes1 stirring all the time4 ,pour some of the sauce over the fowls1 and the remainder serve in a tureen4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient to serve with a pair of fowls4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,how ,,to ,,mix ,,mustard4 #dhj4 ,,ingredients4--,mustard1 salt1 and water4 ,mode4--,mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and allowed to cool2 hot water destroys its essential properties1 and raw cold water might cause it to ferment4 ,put the mustard in a cup1 with a small pinch of salt1 and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery4 ,stir and mix well1 and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon1 as well-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these4 ,the mustard-pot should not be more than half full1 or rather less if it will not be used in a day or two1 as it is so much better when freshly mixed4 ,,tartar ,,mustard4 #dha4 ,,ingredients4--,horseradish vinegar1 cayenne1 #a_/b a teacupful of mustard4 ,mode4--,have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the above proportion of mustard2 put the mustard in a cup1 with a slight seasoning of cayenne2 mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar1 adding this a little at a time2 rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear1 and do not let it be too thin4 ,mustard may be flavoured in various ways1 with ,tarragon1 shalot1 celery1 and many other vinegars1 herbs1 spices1 c42 but this is more customary in ,france than in ,england1 as there it is merely considered a vehicle of flavours1 as it has been termed4 ,,pickled ,,nasturtiums 7a very good ,substitute for ,capers7 #dhb4 ,,ingredients4--,to each pint of vinegar1 #a oz4 of salt1 #f peppercorns1 nasturtiums4 ,mode4--,gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day1 and wipe them clean with a cloth2 put them in a dry glass bottle1 with vinegar1 salt1 and pepper in the above proportion4 ,if you cannot find enough ripe to fill a bottle1 cork up what you have got until you have some more fit3 they may be added from day to day4 ,bung up the bottles1 and seal or rosin the tops4 ,they will be fit for use in #aj or #ab months2 and the best way is to make them one season for the next4 ,seasonable4--,look for nasturtium-pods from the end of ,july to the end of ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,nasturtiums4 ,,nasturtiums4--,the elegant nasturtium-plant1 called by naturalists ,tropoeolum1 and which sometimes goes by the name of ,indian cress1 came originally from ,peru1 but was easily made to grow in these islands4 ,its young leaves and flowers are of a slightly hot nature1 and many consider them a good adjunct to salads1 to which they certainly add a pretty appearance4 ,when the beautiful blossoms1 which may be employed with great effect in garnishing dishes1 are off1 then the fruit is used as described in the above recipe4 ,,french ,,onion ,,sauce1 or ,,soubise4 #dhc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 #a bay-leaf1 seasoning to taste of pounded mace and cayenne1 #f onions1 a small piece of ham4 ,mode4--,peel the onions and cut them in halves2 put them in a stewpan1 with just sufficient water to cover them1 and add the bay-leaf1 ham1 cayenne1 and mace2 be careful to keep the lid closely shut1 and simmer them until tender4 ,take them out and drain thoroughly2 rub them through a tammy or sieve 7an old one does for the purpose7 with a wooden spoon1 and put them to #a_/b pint of ,bchamel2 keep stirring over the fire until it boils1 when serve4 ,if it should require any more seasoning1 add it to taste4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to boil the onions4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 for this quantity4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized dish4 ,,white ,,onion ,,sauce1 for ,boiled ,rabbits1 ,roast ,shoulder of ,mutton1 c4 #dhd4 ,,ingredients4--#i large onions1 or #ab middling-sized ones1 #a pint of melted butter made with milk 7,no4 #chj71 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 or rather more4 ,mode4--,peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt has been added1 to preserve their whiteness1 and let them remain for #a_/d hour4 ,then put them in a stewpan1 cover them with water1 and let them boil until tender1 and1 if the onions should be very strong1 change the water after they have been boiling for #a_/d hour4 ,drain them thoroughly1 chop them1 and rub them through a tammy or sieve4 ,make #a pint of melted butter1 by recipe ,no4 #chj1 and when that boils1 put in the onions1 with a seasoning of salt2 stir it till it simmers1 when it will be ready to serve4 ,if these directions are carefully attended to1 this onion sauce will be delicious4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour1 to boil the onions4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton1 or boiled rabbit4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,note4--,to make this sauce very mild and delicate1 use ,spanish onions1 which can be procured from the beginning of ,september to ,christmas4 #b or #c tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving1 will be found to improve its appearance very much4 ,small onions1 when very young1 may be cooked whole1 and served in melted butter4 ,a sieve or tammy should be kept expressly for onions3 an old one answers the purpose1 as it is liable to retain the flavour and smell1 which of course would be excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations4 ,,brown ,,onion ,,sauce4 #dhe4 ,,ingredients4--#f large onions1 rather more than #a_/b pint of good gravy1 #b oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan1 with the above quantity of butter1 keeping them well stirred1 that they do not get black4 ,when a nice colour1 pour over the gravy1 and let them simmer gently until tender4 ,now skim off every particle of fat1 add the seasoning1 and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve2 put it back in the saucepan to warm1 and when it boils1 serve4 ,time4--,altogether #a hour4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,note4--,where a very high flavouring is liked1 add #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 or a small quantity of port wine4 ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,onion4--,it is not supposed that any variety of the onion is indigenous to ,britain1 as when the large and mild roots imported from warmer climates1 have been cultivated in these islands a few years1 they deteriorate both in size and sweetness4 ,it is therefore most likely that this plant was first introduced into ,england from continental ,europe1 and that it originally was produced in a southern climate1 and has gradually become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere4 7,see ,no4 #aci47 ,,pickled ,,onions 7a very ,simple ,method1 and exceedingly ,good74 #dhf4 ,,ingredients4--,pickling onions2 to each quart of vinegar1 #b teaspoonfuls of allspice1 #b teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper4 ,mode4--,have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe1 and1 with the fingers1 take off the thin outside skin2 then1 with a silver knife 7steel should not be used1 as it spoils the colour of the onions71 remove one more skin1 when the onion will look quite clear4 ,have ready some very dry bottles or jars1 and as fast as they are peeled1 put them in4 ,pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them1 with pepper and allspice in the above proportions1 taking care that each jar has its share of the latter ingredients4 ,tie down with bladder1 and put them in a dry place1 and in a fortnight they will be fit for use4 ,this is a most simple recipe and very delicious1 the onions being nice and crisp4 ,they should be eaten within #f or #h months after being done1 as the onions are liable to become soft4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,july to the end of ,august4 ,,pickled ,,onions4 #dhg4 ,,ingredients4--#a gallon of pickling onions1 salt and water1 milk2 to each #a_/b gallon of vinegar1 #a oz4 of bruised ginger1 #a_/d teaspoonful of cayenne1 #a oz4 of allspice1 #a oz4 of whole black pepper1 #a_/d oz4 of whole nutmeg bruised1 #h cloves1 #a_/d oz4 of mace4 ,mode4--,gather the onions1 which should not be too small1 when they are quite dry and ripe2 wipe off the dirt1 but do not pare them2 make a strong solution of salt and water1 into which put the onions1 and change this1 morning and night1 for #c days1 and save the last brine they were put in4 ,then take the outside skin off1 and put them into a tin saucepan capable of holding them all1 as they are always better done together4 ,now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions were in1 and pour this to them2 to this add #b large spoonfuls of salt1 put them over the fire1 and watch them very attentively4 ,keep constantly turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer1 those at the bottom to the top1 and vice vers2 and let the milk and water run through the holes of the skimmer4 ,remember1 the onions must never boil1 or1 if they do1 they will be good for nothing2 and they should be quite transparent4 ,keep the onions stirred for a few minutes1 and1 in stirring them1 be particular not to break them4 ,then have ready a pan with a colander1 into which turn the onions to drain1 covering them with a cloth to keep in the steam4 ,place on a table an old cloth1 #b or #c times double2 put the onions on it when quite hot1 and over them an old piece of blanket2 cover this closely over them1 to keep in the steam4 ,let them remain till the next day1 when they will be quite cold1 and look yellow and shrivelled2 take off the shrivelled skins1 when they should be as white as snow4 ,put them in a pan1 make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining ingredients1 boil all these up1 and pour hot over the onions in the pan4 ,cover very closely to keep in all the steam1 and let them stand till the following day1 when they will be quite cold4 ,put them into jars or bottles well bunged1 and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the top of each jar or bottle4 ,tie them down with bladder1 and let them stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks1 when they will be fit for use4 ,they should be beautifully white1 and eat crisp1 without the least softness1 and will keep good many months4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,july to the end of ,august4 ,,orange ,,gravy1 for ,wildfowl1 ,widgeon1 ,teal1 c4 #dhh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 #a small onion1 #c or #d strips of lemon or orange peel1 a few leaves of basil1 if at hand1 the juice of a ,seville orange or lemon1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,put the onion1 cut in slices1 into a stewpan with the stock1 orange-peel1 and basil1 and let them simmer very gently for #a_/d hour or rather longer1 should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel4 ,strain it off1 and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients2 let the whole heat through1 and1 when on the point of boiling1 serve very hot in a tureen which should have a cover to it4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,sufficient for a small tureen4 ,,oyster ,,forcemeat1 for ,roast or ,boiled ,turkey4 #dhi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of bread crumbs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of chopped suet or butter1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/d saltspoonful of grated nutmeg1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b eggs1 #ah oysters4 ,mode4--,grate the bread very fine1 and be careful that no large lumps remain2 put it into a basin with the suet1 which must be very finely minced1 or1 when butter is used1 that must be cut up into small pieces4 ,add the herbs1 also chopped as small as possible1 and seasoning2 mix all these well together1 until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled4 ,open and beard the oysters1 chop them1 but not too small1 and add them to the other ingredients4 ,beat up the eggs1 and1 with the hand1 work altogether1 until it is smoothly mixed4 ,the turkey should not be stuffed too full3 if there should be too much forcemeat1 roll it into balls1 fry them1 and use them as a garnish4 ,sufficient for #a turkey4 ,,oyster ,,ketchup4 #dij4 ,,ingredients4--,sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure1 #a pint of sherry1 #c oz4 of salt1 #a drachm of cayenne1 #b drachms of pounded mace4 ,mode4--,procure the oysters very fresh1 and open sufficient to fill a pint measure2 save the liquor1 and scald the oysters in it with the sherry2 strain the oysters1 and put them in a mortar with the salt1 cayenne1 and mace2 pound the whole until reduced to a pulp1 then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded2 boil it again five minutes1 and skim well2 rub the whole through a sieve1 and1 when cold1 bottle and cork closely4 ,the corks should be sealed4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,note4--,cider may be substituted for the sherry4 ,,pickled ,,oysters4 #dia4 ,,ingredients4--#ajj oysters2 to each #a_/b pint of vinegar1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a strip of lemon-peel1 #ab black peppercorns4 ,mode4--,get the oysters in good condition1 open them1 place them in a saucepan1 and let them simmer in their own liquor for about #aj minutes1 very gently2 then take them out1 one by one1 and place them in a jar1 and cover them1 when cold1 with a pickle made as follows3--,measure the oyster-liquor2 add to it the same quantity of vinegar1 with mace1 lemon-peel1 and pepper in the above proportion1 and boil it for #e minutes2 when cold1 pour over the oysters1 and tie them down very closely1 as contact with the air spoils them4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,note4--,put this pickle away in small jars2 because directly one is opened1 its contents should immediately be eaten1 as they soon spoil4 ,the pickle should not be kept more than #b or #c months4 ,,oyster ,,sauce1 to serve with ,fish1 ,boiled ,poultry1 c4 #dib4 ,,ingredients4--#c dozen oysters1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 made with milk1 ,no4 #chj4 ,mode4--,open the oysters carefully1 and save their liquor2 strain it into a clean saucepan 7a lined one is best71 put in the oysters1 and let them just come to the boiling-point1 when they should look plump4 ,take them off the fire immediately1 and put the whole into a basin4 ,strain the liquor from them1 mix with it sufficient milk to make #a_/b pint altogether1 and follow the directions of ,no4 #chj4 ,when the melted butter is ready and very smooth1 put in the oysters1 which should be previously bearded1 if you wish the sauce to be really nice4 ,set it by the side of the fire to get thoroughly hot1 but do not allow it to boil1 or the oysters will immediately harden4 ,using cream instead of milk makes this sauce extremely delicious4 ,when liked1 add a seasoning of cayenne1 or anchovy sauce2 but1 as we have before stated1 a plain sauce should be plain1 and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences2 therefore we recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed1 and no seasoning added4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,never allow fewer than #f oysters to #a person1 unless the party is very large4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,a more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of oysters1 and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce3 this may answer the purpose1 but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish1 c4 ,,parsley ,,and ,,butter1 to serve with ,calf's ,head4 ,boiled ,fowls1 c4 #dic4 ,,ingredients4--#b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 #a_/b pint of melted butter1 ,no4 #cgf4 ,mode4--,put into a saucepan a small quantity of water1 slightly salted1 and when it boils1 throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been previously washed and tied together in a bunch2 let it boil for #e minutes1 drain it1 mince the leaves very fine1 and put the above quantity in a tureen2 pour over it #a_/b pint of smoothly-made melted butter2 stir once1 that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed1 and serve4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil the parsley4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #a large fowl2 allow rather more for a pair4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,sometimes1 in the middle of winter1 parsley-leaves are not to be had1 when the following will be found an excellent substitute3--,tie up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin1 and boil it for #aj minutes in a small quantity of water2 use this water to make the melted butter with1 and throw into it a little boiled spinach1 minced rather fine1 which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley4 ,illustration3 ,,parsley4 ,,parsley4--,if there be nothing new under the sun1 there are1 at any rate1 different uses found for the same thing2 for this pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times1 as we learn from mythological narrative1 to adorn the head of a hero1 no less than ,hercules2 and now--was ever fall so great8--we moderns use it in connection with the head of--a calf4 ,according to ,homer's ,iliad1 warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley2 and ,pliny acquaints us with the fact that1 as a symbol of mourning1 it was admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the ,romans4 ,egypt1 some say1 first produced this herb2 thence it was introduced1 by some unknown voyager1 into ,sardinia1 where the ,carthaginians found it1 and made it known to the inhabitants of ,marseilles4 7,see ,no4 #abc47 ,,fried ,,parsley1 for ,garnishing4 #did4 ,,ingredients4--,parsley1 hot lard or clarified dripping4 ,mode4--,gather some young parsley2 wash1 pick1 and dry it thoroughly in a cloth2 put it into the wire basket of which we have given an engraving1 and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two4 ,directly it is done1 lift out the basket1 and let it stand before the fire1 that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp2 and the quicker it is fried the better4 ,should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article1 throw the parsley into the frying-pan1 and when crisp1 lift it out with a slice1 dry it before the fire1 and when thoroughly crisp1 it will be ready for use4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,basket4 ,,wire ,,basket4--,for this recipe1 a wire basket1 as shown in the annexed engraving1 will be found very useful4 ,it is very light and handy1 and may be used for other similar purposes besides that described above4 ,,parsley ,,juice1 for ,colouring various ,dishes4 #die4 ,procure some nice young parsley2 wash it and dry it thoroughly in a cloth2 pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted1 and put the juice in a teacup or small jar2 place this in a saucepan of boiling water1 and warm it on the bain marie principle just long enough to take off its rawness2 let it drain1 and it will be ready for colouring4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,parsley ,,through ,,the ,,winter4 #dif4 ,use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping1 and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt2 put it into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed1 and then let it boil for #b or #c minutes2 take it out1 let it drain1 and lay it on a sieve in front of the fire1 when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible4 ,store it away in a very dry place in bottles1 and when wanted for use1 pour over it a little warm water1 and let it stand for about #e minutes4 ,seasonable4--,this may be done at any time between ,june and ,october4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,pickle4 #dig4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of medium-sized onions1 cucumbers1 and sauce-apples2 #a-a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 #c_/d teaspoonful of cayenne1 #a wineglassful of soy1 #a wineglassful of sherry2 vinegar4 ,mode4--,slice sufficient cucumbers1 onions1 and apples to fill a pint stone jar1 taking care to cut the slices very thin2 arrange them in alternate layers1 shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the above proportion2 pour in the soy and wine1 and fill up with vinegar4 ,it will be fit for use the day it is made4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,this recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber to the ,englishwoman's ,domestic ,magazine4 ,mrs4 ,beeton1 not having tested it1 cannot vouch for its excellence2 but the contributor spoke very highly in its favour4 ,,soy4--,this is a sauce frequently made use of for fish1 and comes from ,japan1 where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant called ,dolichos ,soja4 ,the ,chinese also manufacture it2 but that made by the ,japanese is said to be the best4 ,all sorts of statements have been made respecting the very general adulteration of this article in ,england1 and we fear that many of them are too true4 ,when genuine1 it is of an agreeable flavour1 thick1 and of a clear brown colour4 ,,pickled ,,red ,,cabbage4 #dih4 ,,ingredients4--,red cabbages1 salt and water2 to each quart of vinegar1 #a_/b oz4 of ginger well bruised1 #a oz4 of whole black pepper1 and1 when liked1 a little cayenne4 ,mode4--,take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage1 cut it in quarters1 remove the stalks1 and cut it across in very thin slices4 ,lay these on a dish1 and strew them plentifully with salt1 covering them with another dish4 ,let them remain for #bd hours1 turn into a colander to drain1 and1 if necessary1 wipe lightly with a clean soft cloth4 ,put them in a jar2 boil up the vinegar with spices in the above proportion1 and1 when cold1 pour it over the cabbage4 ,it will be fit for use in a week or two1 and1 if kept for a very long time1 the cabbage is liable get soft and to discolour4 ,to be really nice and crisp1 and of a good red colour1 it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made4 ,a little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the appearance of this pickle4 ,tie down with bladder1 and keep in a dry place4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august1 but the pickle will be much more crisp if the frost has just touched the leaves4 ,,red ,,cabbage4--,this plant1 in its growth1 is similar in form to that of the white1 but is of a bluish-purple colour1 which1 however1 turns red on the application of acid1 as is the case with all vegetable blues4 ,it is principally from the white vegetable that the ,germans make their sauer kraut2 a dish held in such high estimation with the inhabitants of ,vaderland1 but which requires1 generally speaking1 with strangers1 a long acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its numerous merits4 ,the large red ,dutch is the kind generally recommended for pickling4 ,,plum-,,pudding ,,sauce4 #dii4 ,,ingredients4--#a wineglassful of brandy1 #b oz4 of very fresh butter1 #a glass of ,madeira1 pounded sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,put the pounded sugar in a basin1 with part of the brandy and the butter2 let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and the sugar and butter are dissolved2 then add the rest of the brandy1 with the ,madeira4 ,either pour it over the pudding1 or serve in a tureen4 ,this is a very rich and excellent sauce4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 for this quantity4 ,sufficient for a pudding made for #f persons4 ,,quin',s ,,sauce1 an excellent ,fish ,sauce4 #ejj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of walnut pickle1 #a_/b pint of port wine1 #a pint of mushroom ketchup1 #a dozen anchovies1 #a dozen shalots1 #a_/d pint of soy1 #a_/b teaspoonful of cayenne4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a saucepan1 having previously chopped the shalots and anchovies very small2 simmer for #ae minutes1 strain1 and1 when cold1 bottle off for use3 the corks should be well sealed to exclude the air4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ravigotte1 a ,french ,salad ,sauce4 ,mons4 ,ude's ,recipe4 #eja4 ,,ingredients4--#a teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a teaspoonful of cavice1 #a teaspoonful of ,chili vinegar1 #a teaspoonful of ,reading sauce1 a piece of butter the size of an egg1 #c tablespoonfuls of thick ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,scald the parsley1 mince the leaves very fine1 and add it to all the other ingredients2 after mixing the whole together thoroughly1 the sauce will be ready for use4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #aj;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,reading ,,sauce4 #ejb4 ,,ingredients4--#b-a_/b pints of walnut pickle1 #a-a_/b oz4 of shalots1 #a quart of spring water1 #c_/d pint of ,indian soy1 #a_/b oz4 of bruised ginger1 #a_/b oz4 of long pepper1 #a oz4 of mustard-seed1 #a anchovy1 #a_/b oz4 of cayenne1 #a_/d oz4 of dried sweet bay-leaves4 ,mode4--,bruise the shalots in a mortar1 and put them in a stone jar with the walnut-liquor2 place it before the fire1 and let it boil until reduced to #b pints4 ,then1 into another jar1 put all the ingredients except the bay-leaves1 taking care that they are well bruised1 so that the flavour may be thoroughly extracted2 put this also before the fire1 and let it boil for #a hour1 or rather more4 ,when the contents of both jars are sufficiently cooked1 mix them together1 stirring them well as you mix them1 and submit them to a slow boiling for #a_/b hour2 cover closely1 and let them stand #bd hours in a cool place2 then open the jar and add the bay-leaves2 let it stand a week longer closed down1 when strain through a flannel bag1 and it will be ready for use4 ,the above quantities will make #a_/b gallon4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c hours4 ,seasonable4--,this sauce may be made at any time4 ,,remoulade1 or ,,french ,,salad-,,dressing4 #ejc4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a_/b tablespoonful of made mustard1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #c tablespoonfuls of olive-oil1 #a tablespoonful of tarragon or plain vinegar4 ,mode4--,boil #c eggs quite hard for about #a_/d hour1 put them into cold water1 and let them remain in it for a few minutes2 strip off the shells1 put the yolks in a mortar1 and pound them very smoothly2 add to them1 very gradually1 the mustard1 seasoning1 and vinegar1 keeping all well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon4 ,put in the oil drop by drop1 and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other ingredients1 add the yolk of a raw egg1 and stir well1 when it will be ready for use4 ,this sauce should not be curdled2 and to prevent this1 the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time1 and not to cease stirring4 ,the quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or diminished according to taste1 as many persons would prefer a smaller proportion of the former ingredient4 ,,green ,,remoulade is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain1 and colouring with a little parsley-juice1 ,no4 #die4 ,harvey's sauce1 or ,chili vinegar1 may be added at pleasure4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to boil the eggs4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for a salad made for #d or #f persons4 ,illustration3 ,,tarragon4 ,,tarragon4--,the leaves of this plant1 known to naturalists as ,artemisia dracunculus1 are much used in ,france as a flavouring ingredient for salads4 ,from it also is made the vinegar known as tarragon vinegar1 which is employed by the ,french in mixing their mustard4 ,it originally comes from ,tartary1 and does not seed in ,france4 ,,sage-,,and-,,onion ,,stuffing1 for ,geese1 ,ducks1 and ,pork4 #ejd4 ,,ingredients4--#d large onions1 #aj sage-leaves1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,peel the onions1 put them into boiling water1 let them simmer for #e minutes or rather longer1 and1 just before they are taken out1 put in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness4 ,chop both these very fine1 add the bread1 seasoning1 and butter1 and work the whole together with the yolk of an egg1 when the stuffing will be ready for use4 ,it should be rather highly seasoned1 and the sage-leaves should be very finely chopped4 ,many cooks do not parboil the onions in the manner just stated1 but merely use them raw4 ,the stuffing then1 however1 is not nearly so mild1 and1 to many tastes1 its strong flavour would be very objectionable4 ,when made for goose1 a portion of the liver of the bird1 simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced1 is frequently added to this stuffing2 and where economy is studied1 the egg may be dispensed with4 ,time4--,rather more than #e minutes to simmer the onions4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #a goose1 or a pair of ducks4 #eje4 ,,soyer',s ,,recipe ,,for ,,goose ,,stuffing4--,take #d apples1 peeled and cored1 #d onions1 #d leaves of sage1 and #d leaves of lemon thyme not broken1 and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them2 when done1 pulp them through a sieve1 removing the sage and thyme2 then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry without sticking to the hand2 add pepper and salt1 and stuff the bird4 ,,salad ,,dressing 7,excellent74 ,i4 #ejf4 ,,ingredients4--#a teaspoonful of mixed mustard1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #b tablespoonfuls of salad oil1 #d tablespoonfuls of milk1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar1 and add the oil drop by drop1 carefully stirring and mixing all these ingredients well together4 ,proceed in this manner with the milk and vinegar1 which must be added very gradually1 or the sauce will curdle4 ,put in the seasoning1 when the mixture will be ready for use4 ,if this dressing is properly made1 it will have a soft creamy appearance1 and will be found very delicious with crab1 or cold fried fish 7the latter cut into dice71 as well as with salads4 ,in mixing salad dressings1 the ingredients cannot be added too gradually1 or stirred too much4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #c;d4 ,sufficient for a small salad4 ,this recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress1 to whom it was given by an intimate friend noted for her salads4 ,,scarcity ,,of ,,salads ,,in ,,england4--,three centuries ago1 very few vegetables were cultivated in ,england1 and an author writing of the period of ,henry ,,viii4's reign1 tells us that neither salad1 nor carrots1 nor cabbages1 nor radishes1 nor any other comestibles of a like nature1 were grown in any part of the kingdom3 they came from ,holland and ,flanders4 ,we further learn1 that ,queen ,catharine herself1 with all her royalty1 could not procure a salad of ,english growth for her dinner4 ,the king was obliged to mend this sad state of affairs1 and send to ,holland for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs1 in the growth of which ,england is now1 perhaps1 not behind any other country in ,europe4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,olive4 ,,the ,,olive ,,and ,,olive ,,oil4--,this tree assumes a high degree of interest from the historical circumstances with which it is connected4 ,a leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove1 when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great deep1 and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding4 ,among the ,greeks1 the prize of the victor in the ,olympic games was a wreath of wild olive2 and the ,mount of ,olives is rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the ,scriptures as near to ,jerusalem4 ,the tree is indigenous in the north of ,africa1 ,syria1 and ,greece2 and the ,romans introduced it to ,italy4 ,in ,spain and the south of ,france it is now cultivated2 and although it grows in ,england1 its fruit does not ripen in the open air4 ,both in ,greece and ,portugal the fruit is eaten in its ripe state2 but its taste is not agreeable to many palates4 ,to the ,italian shepherd1 bread and olives1 with a little wine1 form a nourishing diet2 but in ,england1 olives are usually only introduced by way of dessert1 to destroy the taste of the viands which have been previously eaten1 that the flavour of the wine may be the better enjoyed4 ,there are three kinds of olives imported to ,london1--the ,french1 ,spanish1 and ,italian3 the first are from ,provence1 and are generally accounted excellent2 the second are larger1 but more bitter2 and the last are from ,lucca1 and are esteemed the best4 ,the oil extracted from olives1 called olive oil1 or salad oil1 is1 with the continentals1 in continual request1 more dishes being prepared with than without it1 we should imagine4 ,with us1 it is principally used in mixing a salad1 and when thus employed1 it tends to prevent fermentation1 and is an antidote against flatulency4 ,,ii4 #ejg4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a teaspoonful of mixed mustard1 #a_/d teaspoonful of white pepper1 half that quantity of cayenne1 salt to taste1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 vinegar4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs until hard1 which will be in about #a_/d hour or #bj minutes2 put them into cold water1 take off the shells1 and pound the yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste4 ,then add all the other ingredients1 except the vinegar1 and stir them well until the whole are thoroughly incorporated one with the other4 ,pour in sufficient vinegar to make it of the consistency of cream1 taking care to add but little at a time4 ,the mixture will then be ready for use4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized salad4 ,note4--,the whites of the eggs1 cut into rings1 will serve very well as a garnishing to the salad4 ,,iii4 #ejh4 ,,ingredients4--#a egg1 #a teaspoonful of salad oil1 #a teaspoonful of mixed mustard1 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #f tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,mode4--,prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe1 and be very particular that the whole is well stirred4 ,note4--,in making salads1 the vegetables1 c41 should never be added to the sauce very long before they are wanted for table2 the dressing1 however1 may always be prepared some hours before required4 ,where salads are much in request1 it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing for a few days' consumption1 as1 thereby1 much time and trouble are saved4 ,if kept in a cool place1 it will remain good for #d or #e days4 ,,poetic ,,recipe ,,for ,,salad4--,the ,rev4 ,sydney ,smith1 the witty canon of ,st4 ,paul's1 who thought that an enjoyment of the good things of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher1 wrote the following excellent recipe for salad1 which we should advise our readers not to pass by without a trial1 when the hot weather invites to a dish of cold lamb4 ,may they find the flavour equal to the rhyme4-- ,two large potatoes1 pass'd through kitchen sieve1 ,smoothness and softness to the salad give3 ,of mordent mustard add a single spoon1 ,distrust the condiment that bites too soon2 ,but deem it not1 thou man of herbs1 a fault4 ,to add a double quantity of salt3 ,four times the spoon with oil of ,lucca crown1 ,and twice with vinegar procured from 'town2 ,true flavour needs it1 and your poet begs1 ,the pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs4 ,let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole2 ,and1 lastly1 in the flavour'd compound toss ,a magic spoonful of anchovy sauce4 ,oh6 great and glorious1 and herbaceous treat1 ',twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat4 ,back to the world he'd turn his weary soul1 ,and plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl4 ,,sauce ,,allemande1 or ,,german ,,sauce4 #eji4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of sauce tourne 7,no4 #eag71 the yolks of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,put the sauce into a stewpan1 heat it1 and stir to it the beaten yolks of #b eggs1 which have been previously strained4 ,let it just simmer1 but not boil1 or the eggs will curdle2 and after they are added to the sauce1 it must be stirred without ceasing4 ,this sauce is a general favourite1 and is used for many made dishes4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,,sauce ,,aristocratique 7a ,store ,sauce74 #eaj4 ,,ingredients4--,green walnuts4 ,to every pint of juice1 #a lb4 of anchovies1 #a drachm of cloves1 #a drachm of mace1 #a drachm of ,jamaica ginger bruised1 #h shalots4 ,to every pint of the boiled liquor1 #a_/b pint of vinegar1 #a_/d pint of port wine1 #b tablespoonfuls of soy4 ,mode4--,pound the walnuts in a mortar1 squeeze out the juice through a strainer1 and let it stand to settle4 ,pour off the clear juice1 and to every pint of it1 add anchovies1 spices1 and cloves in the above proportion4 ,boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved1 then strain the juice again1 put in the shalots 7#h to every pint71 and boil again4 ,to every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar1 wine1 and soy1 in the above quantities1 and bottle off for use4 ,cork well1 and seal the corks4 ,seasonable4--,make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of ,july1 when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 for a quart4 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,sauces4--,in ,france1 during the reign of ,louis ,,xii41 at the latter end of the #adth century1 there was formed a company of sauce-manufacturers1 who obtained1 in those days of monopolies1 the exclusive privilege of making sauces4 ,the statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous sauce la cameline1 sold by them1 was to be composed or good cinnamon1 good ginger1 good cloves1 good grains of paradise1 good bread1 and good vinegar4 ,the sauce ,tence1 was to be made of good sound almonds1 good ginger1 good wine1 and good verjuice4 ,may we respectfully express a hope--not that we desire to doubt it in the least--that the ,english sauce-manufacturers of the #aith century are equally considerate and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various well-known preparations4 ,,sauce ,a ,l',,aurore1 for ,trout1 ,soles1 c4 #eaa4 ,,ingredients4--,the spawn of #a lobster1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of ,bchamel 7,no4 #cfg71 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 a high seasoning of salt and cayenne4 ,mode4--,take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter1 until quite smooth1 and work it through a hair sieve4 ,put the ,bchamel into a stewpan1 add the pounded spawn1 the lemon-juice1 which must be strained1 and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt2 let it just simmer1 but do not allow it to boil1 or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will be spoiled4 ,a small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at pleasure4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 ,sufficient for a pair of large soles4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sauce ,a ,,la ,,matelote1 for ,fish4 #eab4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of ,espagnole 7,no4 #daa71 #c onions1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 #a_/b glass of port wine1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 #a_/b bay-leaf1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a clove1 #b berries of allspice1 a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled1 lemon-juice1 and anchovy sauce4 ,mode4--,slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour1 and put them into a stewpan with the ,espagnole1 ketchup1 wine1 and a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled4 ,add the seasoning1 herbs1 and spices1 and simmer gently for #aj minutes1 stirring well the whole time2 strain it through a fine hair sieve1 put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce1 and pour it over the fish4 ,this sauce may be very much enriched by adding a few small quenelles1 or forcemeat balls made of fish1 and also glazed onions or mushrooms4 ,these1 however1 should not be added to the matelote till it is dished4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,this sauce originally took its name as being similar to that which the ,french sailor 7matelot7 employed as a relish to the fish he caught and ate4 ,in some cases1 cider and perry were substituted for the wine4 ,the ,norman matelotes were very celebrated4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bay4 ,,the ,,bay4--,we have already described 7see ,no4 #ahj7 the difference between the cherry-laurel 7,prunus ,laurus cerasus7 and the classic laurel 7,laurus nobilis71 the former only being used for culinary purposes4 ,the latter beautiful evergreen was consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes1 and used in their sacrifices4 ,a crown of bay was the earnestly-desired reward for great enterprises1 and for the display of uncommon genius in oratory or writing4 ,it was more particularly sacred to ,apollo1 because1 according to the fable1 the nymph ,daphne was changed into a laurel-tree4 ,the ancients believed1 too1 that the laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy1 as well as poetic genius2 and1 when they wished to procure pleasant dreams1 would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed4 ,it was the symbol1 too1 of victory1 and it was thought that the laurel could never be struck by lightning4 ,from this word comes that of laureate2 ,alfred ,tennyson being the present poet laureate1 crowned with laurel as the first of living bards4 ,,sauce ,,piquante1 for ,cutlets1 ,roast ,meat1 c4 #eac4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of butter1 #a small carrot1 #f shalots1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 #a_/b a bay-leaf1 #b slices of lean ham1 #b cloves1 #f peppercorns1 #a blade of mace1 #c whole allspice1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #a_/b pint of stock 7,no4 #ajd or #aje71 #a small lump of sugar1 #a_/d saltspoonful of cayenne1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put into a stewpan the butter1 with the carrot and shalots1 both of which must be cut into small slices2 add the herbs1 bay-leaf1 spices1 and ham 7which must be minced rather finely71 and let these ingredients simmer over a slow fire1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brown glaze4 ,keep stirring with a wooden spoon1 and put in the remaining ingredients4 ,simmer very gently for #a_/d hour1 skim off every particle of fat1 strain the sauce through a sieve1 and serve very hot4 ,care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid1 although it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name4 ,of course the above quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure1 according to taste4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for a medium-sized dish of cutlets4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,good ,,sauce ,,for ,,various ,,boiled ,,puddings4 #ead4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of pounded sugar1 a wineglassful of brandy or rum4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream1 until no lumps remain2 add the pounded sugar1 and brandy or rum2 stir once or twice until the whole is thoroughly mixed1 and serve4 ,this sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen1 according to the taste or fancy of the cook or mistress4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 for this quantity4 ,sufficient for a pudding4 ,,sauce ,,robert1 for ,steaks1 c4 #eae4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of butter1 #c onions1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #d tablespoonfuls of gravy1 or stock ,no4 #aje1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of made mustard1 #a teaspoonful of vinegar1 the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a stewpan1 set it on the fire1 and1 when browning1 throw in the onions1 which must be cut into small slices4 ,fry them brown1 but do not burn them2 add the flour1 shake the onions in it1 and give the whole another fry4 ,put in the gravy and seasoning1 and boil it gently for #aj minutes2 skim off the fat1 add the mustard1 vinegar1 and lemon-juice2 give it one boil1 and pour round the steaks1 or whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for4 ,time4---,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,sufficient for about #b lbs4 of steak4 ,note4--,this sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast goose1 pork1 mutton cutlets1 and various other dishes4 ,a ,,good ,,sauce ,,for ,,steaks4 #eaf4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of whole black pepper1 #a_/b oz4 of allspice1 #a oz4 of salt1 #a_/b oz4 grated horseradish1 #a_/b oz4 of pickled shalots1 #a pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle4 ,mode4--,pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar1 and put them into the ketchup or walnut-liquor4 ,let them stand for a fortnight1 when strain off the liquor and bottle for use4 ,either pour a little of the sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy4 ,seasonable4--,this can be made at any time4 ,note4--,in using a jar of pickled walnuts1 there is frequently left a large quantity of liquor2 this should be converted into a sauce like the above1 and will be found a very useful relish4 ,,the ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,pepper-,,plant4--,our readers will see at ,nos4 #cfi and #cii1 a description1 with engravings1 of the qualities of black and long pepper1 and an account of where these spices are found4 ,we will here say something of the manner of the growth of the pepper-plant4 ,like the vine1 it requires support1 and it is usual to plant a thorny tree by its side1 to which it may cling4 ,in ,malabar1 the chief pepper district of ,india1 the jacca-tree 7,artocarpus integrifolia7 is made thus to yield its assistance1 the same soil being adapted to the growth of both plants4 ,the stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support to a considerable height2 the flexile branches then droop downwards1 bearing at their extremities1 as well as at other parts1 spikes of green flowers1 which are followed by the pungent berries4 ,these hang in large bunches1 resembling in shape those of grapes2 but the fruit grows distinct1 each on a little stalk1 like currants4 ,each berry contains a single seed1 of a globular form and brownish colour1 but which changes to a nearly black when dried2 and this is the pepper of commerce4 ,the leaves are not unlike those of the ivy1 but are larger and of rather lighter colour2 they partake strongly of the peculiar smell and pungent taste of the berry4 ,,sauce ,,tournee4 #eag4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of white stock 7,no4 #ajg71 thickening of flour and butter1 or white roux 7,no4 #ebf71 a faggot of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 #f chopped mushrooms1 #f green onions4 ,mode4--,put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs1 onions1 and mushrooms1 and let it simmer very gently for about #a_/b hour2 stir in sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency2 let it boil for a few minutes1 then skim off all the fat1 strain and serve4 ,this sauce1 with the addition of a little cream1 is now frequently called velout4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #f;d4 ,note4--,if poultry trimmings are at hand1 the stock should be made of these2 and the above sauce should not be made too thick1 as it does not then admit of the fat being nicely removed4 ,,sweet ,,sauce1 for ,venison4 #eah4 ,,ingredients4--,a small jar of red-currant jelly1 #a glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,put the above ingredients into a stewpan1 set them over the fire1 and1 when melted1 pour in a tureen and serve4 ,it should not be allowed to boil4 ,time4--#e minutes to melt the jelly4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,wildfowl4 #eai4 ,,ingredients4--#a glass of port wine1 #a tablespoonful of ,leamington sauce 7,no4 #dei71 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a slice of lemon-peel1 #a large shalot cut in slices1 #a blade of mace1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a stewpan1 set it over the fire1 and let it simmer for about #e minutes2 then strain and serve the sauce in a tureen4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #h;d4 ,,sausage-,,meat ,,stuffing1 for ,turkey4 #ebj4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of lean pork1 #f oz4 of fat pork1 both weighed after being chopped 7beef suet may be substituted for the latter71 #b oz4 of bread crumbs1 #a small tablespoonful of minced sage1 #a blade of pounded mace1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,chop the meat and fat very finely1 mix with them the other ingredients1 taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated4 ,moisten with the egg1 and the stuffing will be ready for use4 ,equal quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat1 ,no4 #dag1 will be found to answer very well1 as the herbs1 lemon-peel1 c4 in the latter1 impart a very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat4 ,as preparations1 however1 like stuffings and forcemeats1 are matters to be decided by individual tastes1 they must be left1 to a great extent1 to the discrimination of the cook1 who should study her employer's taste in this1 as in every other respect4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for a small turkey4 ,,savoury ,,jelly ,,for ,,meat ,,pies4 #eba4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of shin of beef1 #a calf's-foot1 #c lbs4 of knuckle of veal1 poultry trimmings 7if for game pies1 any game trimmings71 #b onions stuck with cloves1 #b carrots1 #d shalots1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b bay-leaves2 when liked1 #b blades of mace and a little spice2 #b slices of lean ham1 rather more than #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the ingredients except the water2 set it over a slow fire to draw down1 and1 when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat1 pour in the water4 ,let it boil up1 then carefully take away all scum from the top4 ,cover the stewpan closely1 and let the stock simmer very gently for #d hours3 if rapidly boiled1 the jelly will not be clear4 ,when done1 strain it through a fine sieve or flannel bag2 and when cold1 the jelly should be quite transparent4 ,if this is not the case1 clarify it with the whites of eggs1 as described in recipe ,no4 #aji4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #es4 ,,shrimp ,,sauce1 for ,various ,kinds of ,fish4 #ebb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/c pint of melted butter 7,no4 #cgf71 #a_/d pint of picked shrimps1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe ,no4 #cgf1 shell the shrimps 7sufficient to make #a_/d pint when picked71 and put them into the butter2 season with cayenne1 and let the sauce just simmer1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,when liked1 a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be added4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,,spinach ,,green ,,for ,,colouring ,,various ,,dishes4 #ebc4 ,,ingredients4--#b handfuls of spinach4 ,mode4--,pick and wash the spinach free from dirt1 and pound the leaves in a mortar to extract the juice2 then press it through a hair sieve1 and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar4 ,place this in a bain marie1 or saucepan of boiling water1 and let it set4 ,watch it closely1 as it should not boil2 and1 as soon as it is done1 lay it in a sieve1 so that all the water may drain from it1 and the green will then be ready for colouring4 ,if made according to this recipe1 the spinach-green will be found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way4 ,,hot ,,spice1 a ,delicious ,adjunct to ,chops1 ,steaks1 ,gravies1 c4 #ebd4 ,,ingredients4--#c drachms each of ginger1 black pepper1 and cinnamon1 #g cloves1 #a_/b oz4 mace1 #a_/d oz4 of cayenne1 #a oz4 grated nutmeg1 #a-a_/b oz4 white pepper4 ,mode4--,pound the ingredients1 and mix them thoroughly together1 taking care that everything is well blended4 ,put the spice in a very dry glass bottle for use4 ,the quantity of cayenne may be increased1 should the above not be enough to suit the palate4 ,illustration3 ,,cinnamon4 ,,cinnamon4--,the cinnamon-tree 7,laurus ,cinnamomum7 is a valuable and beautiful species of the laurel family1 and grows to the height of #bj or #cj feet4 ,the trunk is short and straight1 with wide-spreading branches1 and it has a smooth ash-like bark4 ,the leaves are upon short stalks1 and are of an oval shape1 and #c to #e inches long4 ,the flowers are in panicles1 with six small petals1 and the fruit is about the size of an olive1 soft1 insipid1 and of a deep blue4 ,this incloses a nut1 the kernel of which germinates soon after it falls4 ,the wood of the tree is white and not very solid1 and its root is thick and branching1 exuding a great quantity of camphor4 ,the inner bark of the tree forms the cinnamon of commerce4 ,ceylon was thought to be its native island2 but it has been found in ,malabar1 ,cochin-,china1 ,sumatra1 and the ,eastern ,islands2 also in the ,brazils1 the ,mauritius1 ,jamaica1 and other tropical localities4 ,,brown ,,roux1 a ,french ,thickening for ,gravies and ,sauces4 #ebe4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of butter1 #i oz4 of flour4 ,mode4--,melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire1 and dredge in1 very gradually1 the flour2 stir it till of a light-brown colour--to obtain this do it very slowly1 otherwise the flour will burn and impart a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with4 ,pour it in a jar1 and keep it for use3 it will remain good some time4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,,white ,,roux1 for thickening ,white ,sauces4 #ebf4 ,allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the preceding recipe1 and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux1 but do not keep it on the fire too long1 and take care not to let it colour4 ,this is used for thickening white sauce4 ,pour it into a jar to use when wanted4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient1--,a dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy4 ,note4--,besides the above1 sauces may be thickened with potato flour1 ground rice1 baked flour1 arrowroot1 c43 the latter will be found far preferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces4 ,a slice of bread1 toasted and added to gravies1 answers the two purposes of thickening and colouring them4 ,,spanish ,,onions--,,pickled4 #ebg4 ,,ingredients4--,onions1 vinegar2 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the onions in thin slices2 put a layer of them in the bottom of a jar2 sprinkle with salt and cayenne2 then add another layer of onions1 and season as before4 ,proceeding in this manner till the jar is full1 pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole1 and the pickle will be fit for use in a month4 ,seasonable4--,may be had in ,england from ,september to ,february4 ,,store ,,sauce1 or ,,cherokee4 #ebh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b oz4 of cayenne pepper1 #e cloves of garlic1 #b tablespoonfuls of soy1 #a tablespoonful of walnut ketchup1 #a pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,boil all the ingredients gently for about #a_/b hour2 strain the liquor1 and bottle off for use4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable4--,this sauce can be made at any time4 ,,tomato ,,sauce--,,hot1 to serve with ,cutlets1 ,roast ,meats1 c4 #ebi4 ,,ingredients4--#f tomatoes1 #b shalots1 #a clove1 #a blade of mace1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #a_/d pint of gravy1 ,no4 #dcf1 or stock ,no4 #ajd4 ,mode4--,cut the tomatoes in two1 and squeeze the juice and seeds out2 put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients1 and let them simmer gently until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp2 rub the whole through a sieve1 boil it for a few minutes1 and serve4 ,the shalots and spices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to4 ,time4--#a hour1 or rather more1 to simmer the tomatoes4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 ,in full season in ,september and ,october4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,tomato4 ,,tomato1 ,,or ,,love-,,apple4--,the plant which bears this fruit is a native of ,south ,america1 and takes its name from a ,portuguese word4 ,the tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato1 and is chiefly used in soups1 sauces1 and gravies4 ,it is sometimes served to table roasted or boiled1 and when green1 makes a good ketchup or pickle4 ,in its unripe state1 it is esteemed as excellent sauce for roast goose or pork1 and when quite ripe1 a good store sauce may be prepared from it4 ,,tomato ,,sauce ,,for ,,keeping 7,excellent74 ,i4 #ecj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every quart of tomato-pulp allow #a pint of cayenne vinegar 7,no4 #chf71 #c_/d oz4 of shalots1 #c_/d oz4 of garlic1 peeled and cut in slices2 salt to taste4 ,to every six quarts of liquor1 #a pint of soy1 #a pint of anchovy sauce4 ,mode4--,gather the tomatoes quite ripe2 bake them in a slow oven till tender2 rub them through a sieve1 and to every quart of pulp add cayenne vinegar1 shalots1 garlic1 and salt1 in the above proportion2 boil the whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft2 then rub it through a sieve1 put it again into a saucepan1 and1 to every six quarts of the liquor1 add #a pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce1 and boil altogether for about #bj minutes2 bottle off for use1 and carefully seal or rosin the corks4 ,this will keep good for #b or #c years1 but will be fit for use in a week4 ,a useful and less expensive sauce may be made by omitting the anchovy and soy4 ,time4--,altogether #a hour4 ,seasonable4--,make this from the middle of ,september to the end of ,october4 ,,ii4 #eca4 ,,ingredients4--#a dozen tomatoes1 #b teaspoonfuls of the best powdered ginger1 #a dessertspoonful of salt1 #a head of garlic chopped fine1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #a dessertspoonful of ,chili vinegar 7a small quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this74 ,mode4--,choose ripe tomatoes1 put them into a stone jar1 and stand them in a cool oven until quite tender2 when cold1 take the skins and stalks from them1 mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar1 but do not strain it2 add all the other ingredients1 mix well together1 and put it into well-sealed bottles4 ,stored away in a cool dry place1 it will keep good for years4 ,it is ready for use as soon as made1 but the flavour is better after a week or two4 ,should it not appear to keep1 turn it out1 and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne4 ,for immediate use1 the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with a little of the different ingredients1 and they will be found very nice for hashes or stews4 ,time4--#d or #e hours in a cool oven4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,september to the end of ,october4 ,,iii4 #ecb4 ,,ingredients4--#c dozen tomatoes2 to every pound of tomato-pulp allow #a pint of ,chili vinegar1 #a oz4 of garlic1 #a oz4 of shalot1 #b oz4 of salt1 #a large green capsicum1 #a_/b teaspoonful of cayenne1 #b pickled gherkins1 #f pickled onions1 #a pint of common vinegar1 and the juice of #f lemons4 ,mode4--,choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red2 put them in a jar with a cover to it1 and bake them till tender4 ,the better way is to put them in the oven overnight1 when it will not be too hot1 and examine them in the morning to see if they are tender4 ,do not allow them to remain in the oven long enough to break them2 but they should be sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve4 ,measure the pulp1 and to each pound of pulp1 add the above proportion of vinegar and other ingredients1 taking care to chop very fine the garlic1 shalot1 capsicum1 onion1 and gherkins4 ,boil the whole together till everything is tender2 then again rub it through a sieve1 and add the lemon-juice4 ,now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream1 and keep continually stirring2 bottle it when quite cold1 cork well1 and seal the corks4 ,if the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked1 diminish the quantities4 ,time4--,bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,september to the end of ,october4 ,note4--,a quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes1 which must be put through the sieve with the rest4 ,keep it well stirred while on the fire1 and use a wooden spoon4 ,,universal ,,pickle4 #ecc4 ,,ingredients4--,to #f quarts of vinegar allow #a lb4 of salt1 #a_/d lb4 of ginger1 #a oz4 of mace1 #a_/b lb4 of shalots1 #a tablespoonful of cayenne1 #b oz4 of mustard-seed1 #a-a_/b oz4 of turmeric4 ,mode4--,boil all the ingredients together for about #bj minutes2 when cold1 put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose1 such as radish-pods1 ,french beans1 cauliflowers1 gherkins1 c4 c41 as these come into season2 put them in fresh as you gather them1 having previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit4 ,this pickle will be fit for use in about #h or #i months4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,seasonable4--,make the pickle in ,may or ,june1 to be ready for the various vegetables4 ,note4--,as this pickle takes #b or #c months to make1--that is to say1 nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are added1--care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle well covered1 either with a closely-fitting lid1 or a piece of bladder securely tied over1 so as perfectly to exclude the air4 ,,pickled ,,walnuts 7,very ,good74 #ecd4 ,,ingredients4--#ajj walnuts1 salt and water4 ,to each quart of vinegar allow #b oz4 of whole black pepper1 #a oz4 of allspice1 #a oz4 of bruised ginger4 ,mode4--,procure the walnuts while young2 be careful they are not woody1 and prick them well with a fork2 prepare a strong brine of salt and water 7#d lbs4 of salt to each gallon of water71 into which put the walnuts1 letting them remain #i days1 and changing the brine every third day2 drain them off1 put them on a dish1 place it in the sun until they become perfectly black1 which will be in #b or #c days2 have ready dry jars1 into which place the walnuts1 and do not quite fill the jars4 ,boil sufficient vinegar to cover them1 for #aj minutes1 with spices in the above proportion1 and pour it hot over the walnuts1 which must be quite covered with the pickle2 tie down with bladder1 and keep in a dry place4 ,they will be fit for use in a month1 and will keep good #b or #c years4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,seasonable4--,make this from the beginning to the middle of ,july1 before the walnuts harden4 ,note4--,when liked1 a few shalots may be added to the vinegar1 and boiled with it4 ,,walnut ,,ketchup4 ,i4 #ece4 ,,ingredients4--#ajj walnuts1 #a handful of salt1 #a quart of vinegar1 #a_/d oz4 of mace1 #a_/d oz4 of nutmeg1 #a_/d oz4 of cloves1 #a_/d oz4 of ginger1 #a_/d oz4 of whole black pepper1 a small piece of horseradish1 #bj shalots1 #a_/d lb4 of anchovies1 #a pint of port wine4 ,mode4--,procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them1 slightly bruise1 and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar1 let them stand #h days1 stirring every day2 then drain the liquor from them1 and boil it1 with the above ingredients1 for about #a_/b hour4 ,it may be strained or not1 as preferred1 and1 if required1 a little more vinegar or wine can be added1 according to taste4 ,when bottled well1 seal the corks4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable4--,make this from the beginning to the middle of ,july1 when walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes4 ,,ii4 #ecf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b sieve of walnut-shells1 #b quarts of water1 salt1 #a_/b lb4 of shalots1 #a oz4 of cloves1 #a oz4 of mace1 #a oz4 of whole pepper1 #a oz4 of garlic4 ,mode4--,put the walnut-shells into a pan1 with the water1 and a large quantity of salt2 let them stand for #aj days1 then break the shells up in the water1 and let it drain through a sieve1 putting a heavy weight on the top to express the juice2 place it on the fire1 and remove all scum that may arise4 ,now boil the liquor with the shalots1 cloves1 mace1 pepper1 and garlic1 and let all simmer till the shalots sink2 then put the liquor into a pan1 and1 when cold1 bottle1 and cork closely4 ,it should stand #f months before using3 should it ferment during that time1 it must be again boiled and skimmed4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour4 ,seasonable in ,september1 when the walnut-shells are obtainable4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,walnut4 ,,the ,,walnut4--,this nut is a native of ,persia1 and was introduced into ,england from ,france4 ,as a pickle1 it is much used in the green state2 and grated walnuts in ,spain are much employed1 both in tarts and other dishes4 ,on the continent it is occasionally employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking2 but it is apt1 under such circumstances1 to become rancid4 ,the matter which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly nutritious for poultry4 ,it is called mare1 and in ,switzerland is eaten under the name of pain amer by the poor4 ,the oil is frequently manufactured into a kind of soap1 and the leaves and green husks yield an extract1 which1 as a brown dye1 is used to stain hair1 wool1 and wood4 ,,white ,,sauce 7,good74 #ecg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of white stock 7,no4 #ajg71 #a_/b pint of cream1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,have ready a delicately-clean saucepan1 into which put the stock1 which should be well flavoured with vegetables1 and rather savoury2 mix the flour smoothly with the cream1 add it to the stock1 season with a little salt1 and boil all these ingredients very gently for about #aj minutes1 keeping them well stirred the whole time1 as this sauce is very liable to burn4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for a pair of fowls4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,white ,,sauce1 made without ,meat4 #ech4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of butter1 #b small onions1 #a carrot1 #a_/b a small teacupful of flour1 #a pint of new milk1 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,cut up the onions and carrot very small1 and put them into a stewpan with the butter2 simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up2 then stir in the flour1 and add the milk2 boil the whole gently until it thickens1 strain it1 season with salt and cayenne1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 ,sufficient for a pair of fowls4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,white ,,sauce 7a very ,simple and ,inexpensive ,method74 #eci4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of milk1 #a-a_/b oz4 of rice1 #a strip of lemon-peel1 #a small blade of pounded mace1 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter is perfectly tender1 then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk and rice together2 put it back into the stewpan to warm1 add the mace and seasoning1 give it one boil1 and serve4 ,this sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream4 ,time4--,about #a-a_/b hour to boil the rice4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for a pair of fowls4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,leamington ,,stove1 ,,or ,,kitchener4 ,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,cooking ,,meat4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,general ,,remarks4 #edj4 ,in ,our ,,introduction ,,to ,,cookery 7see ,no4 #gf7 we have described the gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery1 the probability being1 that the human race1 for a long period1 lived wholly on fruits4 ,man's means of attacking animals1 even if he had the desire of slaughtering them1 were very limited1 until he acquired the use of arms4 ,he1 however1 made weapons for himself1 and1 impelled by a carnivorous instinct1 made prey of the animals that surrounded him4 ,it is natural that man should seek to feed on flesh2 he has too small a stomach to be supported alone by fruit1 which has not sufficient nourishment to renovate him4 ,it is possible he might subsist on vegetables2 but their preparation needs the knowledge of art1 only to be obtained after the lapse of many centuries4 ,man's first weapons were the branches of trees1 which were succeeded by bows and arrows1 and it is worthy of remark1 that these latter weapons have been found with the natives of all climates and latitudes4 ,it is singular how this idea presented itself to individuals so differently placed4 #eda4 ,,brillat ,,savarin says1 that raw flesh has but one inconvenience1--from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth4 ,he goes on to say1 that it is not1 however1 disagreeable2 but1 when seasoned with salt1 that it is easily digested4 ,he tells a story of a ,croat captain1 whom he invited to dinner in #ahae1 during the occupation of ,paris by the allied troops4 ,this officer was amazed at his host's preparations1 and said1 ,when we are campaigning1 and get hungry1 we knock over the first animal we find1 cut off a steak1 powder it with salt1 which we always have in the sabretasche1 put it under the saddle1 gallop over it for half a mile1 and then dine like princes4 ,again1 of the huntsmen of ,dauphiny it is said1 that when they are out shooting in ,september1 they take with them both pepper and salt4 ,if they kill a very fat bird1 they pluck and season it1 and1 after carrying it some time in their caps1 eat it4 ,this1 they declare1 is the best way of serving it up4 #edb4 ,,subsequently ,,to ,,the ,,croat ,,mode1 which1 doubtless1 was in fashion in the earlier ages of the world1 fire was discovered4 ,this was an accident2 for fire is not1 although we are accustomed to call it so1 an element1 or spontaneous4 ,many savage nations have been found utterly ignorant of it1 and many races had no other way of dressing their food than by exposing it to the rays of the sun4 #edc4 ,,the ,,inhabitants ,,of ,,the ,,marian ,,islands1 which were discovered in #aeba1 had no idea of fire4 ,never was astonishment greater than theirs when they first saw it1 on the descent of ,magellan1 the navigator1 on one of their isles4 ,at first they thought it a kind of animal1 that fixed itself to and fed upon wood4 ,some of them1 who approached too near1 being burnt1 the rest were terrified1 and durst only look upon it at a distance4 ,they were afraid1 they said1 of being bit1 or lest that dreadful animal should wound with his violent respiration and dreadful breath2 for these were the first notions they formed of the heat and flame4 ,such1 too1 probably1 were the notions the ,greeks originally formed of them4 #edd4 ,,fire ,,having ,,been ,,discovered1 mankind endeavoured to make use of it for drying1 and afterwards for cooking their meat2 but they were a considerable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods of employing it in the preparation of their food4 #ede4 ,,meat1 ,,then1 ,,placed ,,on ,,burning ,,fuel was found better than when raw3 it had more firmness1 was eaten with less difficulty1 and the ozmazome being condensed by the carbonization1 gave it a pleasing perfume and flavour4 ,still1 however1 the meat cooked on the coal would become somewhat befouled1 certain portions of the fuel adhering to it4 ,this disadvantage was remedied by passing spits through it1 and placing it at a suitable height above the burning fuel4 ,thus grilling was invented2 and it is well known that1 simple as is this mode of cookery1 yet all meat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly flavoured4 ,in ,homer's time1 the1 art of cookery had not advanced much beyond this2 for we read in the ,iliad1 how the great ,achilles and his friend ,patroclus regaled the three ,grecian leaders on bread1 wine1 and broiled meat4 ,it is noticeable1 too1 that ,homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in his poems4 ,later1 however1 the ,jews1 coming out of their captivity in ,egypt1 had made much greater progress4 ,they undoubtedly possessed kettles2 and in one of these1 ,esau's mess of pottage1 for which he sold his birthright1 must have been prepared4 #edf4 ,,having ,,thus ,,briefly ,,traced ,a ,,history ,,of ,,gastronomical ,,progresses1 we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking meat1 and make a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in each of the operations4 #edg4 ,,in ,,this ,,country1 plain boiling1 roasting1 and baking are the usual methods of cooking animal food4 ,to explain the philosophy of these simple culinary operations1 we must advert to the effects that are produced by heat on the principal constituents of flesh4 ,when finely-chopped mutton or beef is steeped for some time in a small quantity of clean water1 and then subjected to slight pressure1 the juice of the meat is extracted1 and there is left a white tasteless residue1 consisting chiefly of muscular fibres4 ,when this residue is heated to between #aeh and #agg ,fahrenheit1 the fibres shrink together1 and become hard and horny4 ,the influence of an elevated temperature on the soluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable4 ,when the watery infusion1 which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat1 is gradually heated1 it soon becomes turbid2 and1 when the temperature reaches #acc1 flakes of whitish matter separate4 ,these flakes are albumen1 a substance precisely similar1 in all its properties1 to the white of egg 7see ,no4 #aja74 ,when the temperature of the watery extract is raised to #aeh1 the colouring matter of the blood coagulates1 and the liquid1 which was originally tinged red by this substance1 is left perfectly clear1 and almost colourless4 ,when evaporated1 even at a gentle heat1 this residual liquid gradually becomes brown1 and acquires the flavour of roast meat4 #edh4 ,,these ,,interesting ,,facts1 discovered in the laboratory1 throw a flood of light upon the mysteries of the kitchen4 ,the fibres of meat are surrounded by a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state1 just as it exists in the unboiled egg4 ,during the operation of boiling or roasting1 this substance coagulates1 and thereby prevents the contraction and hardening of the fibres4 ,the tenderness of well-cooked meat is consequently proportioned to the amount of albumen deposited in its substance4 ,meat is underdone when it has been heated throughout only to the temperature of coagulating albumen3 it is thoroughly done when it has been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which the colouring matter of the blood coagulates3 it is overdone when the heat has been continued long enough to harden the fibres4 #edi4 ,,the ,,juice ,,of ,,flesh ,,is ,,water1 holding in solution many substances besides albumen1 which are of the highest possible value as articles of food4 ,in preparing meat for the table1 great care should be taken to prevent the escape of this precious juice1 as the succulence and sapidity of the meat depend on its retention4 ,the meat to be cooked should be exposed at first to a quick heat1 which immediately coagulates the albumen on and near the surface4 ,a kind of shell is thus formed1 which effectually retains the whole of the juice within the meat4 #eej4 ,,during ,,the ,,operations ,,of ,,boiling1 ,,boasting1 ,,and ,,baking1 fresh beef and mutton1 when moderately fat1 lose1 according to ,johnston1 on an average about-- ,in boiling4 ,in baking4 ,in roasting4 #d lbs4 of beef lose #a lb4 #a lb4 #c oz4 #a lb4 #e oz4 #d lbs4 of mutton lose #ad oz4 #a lb4 #d oz4 #a lb4 #f oz4 ,,baking4 ,illustration3 ,,baking ,,dish4 #eea4 ,,the ,,difference ,,between ,,roasting ,,meat ,,and ,,baking ,,it1 may be generally described as consisting in the fact1 that1 in baking it1 the fumes caused by the operation are not carried off in the same way as occurs in roasting4 ,much1 however1 of this disadvantage is obviated by the improved construction of modern ovens1 and of especially those in connection with the ,leamington kitchener1 of which we give an engraving here1 and a full description of which will be seen at paragraph ,no4 #fe1 with the prices at which they can be purchased of ,messrs4 ,r4 and ,j4 ,slack1 of the ,strand4 ,with meat baked in the generality of ovens1 however1 which do not possess ventilators on the principle of this kitchener1 there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste1 which does not at all equal the flavour developed by roasting meat4 ,the chemistry of baking may be said to be the same as that described in roasting4 #eeb4 ,,should ,,the ,,oven ,,be ,,very ,,brisk1 it will be found necessary to cover the joint with a piece of white paper1 to prevent the meat from being scorched and blackened outside1 before the heat can penetrate into the inside4 ,this paper should be removed half an hour before the time of serving dinner1 so that the joint may take a good colour4 #eec4 ,,by ,,means ,,of ,a ,,jar1 many dishes1 which will be enumerated under their special heads1 may be economically prepared in the oven4 ,the principal of these are soup1 gravies1 jugged hare1 beef tea2 and this mode of cooking may be advantageously adopted with a ham1 which has previously been covered with a common crust of flour and water4 #eed4 ,,all ,,dishes ,,prepared ,,for ,,baking should be more highly seasoned than when intended to be roasted4 ,there are some dishes which1 it may be said1 are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster2 thus1 a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes1 a fillet or breast of veal1 a sucking pig1 a hare1 well basted1 will be received by connoisseurs as well1 when baked1 as if they had been roasted4 ,indeed1 the baker's oven1 or the family oven1 may often1 as has been said1 be substituted for the cook and the spit with greater economy and convenience4 #eee4 ,a ,,baking-,,dish1 of which we give an engraving1 should not be less than #f or #g inches deep2 so that the meat1 which of course cannot be basted1 can stew in its own juices4 ,in the recipe for each dish1 full explanations concerning any special points in relation to it will be given4 ,,boiling4 #eef4 ,,boiling1 or the preparation of meat by hot water1 though one of the easiest processes in cookery1 requires skilful management4 ,boiled meat should be tender1 savoury1 and full of its own juice1 or natural gravy2 but1 through the carelessness and ignorance of cooks1 it is too often sent to table hard1 tasteless1 and innutritious4 ,to insure a successful result in boiling flesh1 the heat of the fire must be judiciously regulated1 the proper quantity of water must be kept up in the pot1 and the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed4 #eeg4 ,,many ,,writers ,,on ,,cookery assert that the meat to be boiled should be put into cold water1 and that the pot should be heated gradually2 but ,liebig1 the highest authority on all matters connected with the chemistry of food1 has shown that meat so treated loses some of its most nutritious constituents4 ,if the flesh1 says the great chemist1 be introduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of brisk ebullition1 and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes1 and the pot then placed in a warm place1 so that the temperature of the water is kept at #aeh to #afe1 we have the united conditions for giving to the flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten4 ,when a piece of meat is plunged into boiling water1 the albumen which is near the surface immediately coagulates1 forming an envelope1 which prevents the escape of the internal juice1 and most effectually excludes the water1 which1 by mixing with this juice1 would render the meat insipid4 ,meat treated thus is juicy and well-flavoured1 when cooked1 as it retains most of its savoury constituents4 ,on the other hand1 if the piece of meat be set on the fire with cold water1 and this slowly heated to boiling1 the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and nutritious substances1 while1 as a matter of course1 the soup becomes richer in these matters4 ,the albumen is gradually dissolved from the surface to the centre2 the fibre loses1 more or less1 its quality of shortness or tenderness1 and becomes hard and tough3 the thinner the piece of meat is1 the greater is its loss of savoury constituents4 ,in order to obtain well-flavoured and eatable meat1 we must relinquish the idea of making good soup from it1 as that mode of boiling which yields the best soup gives the driest1 toughest1 and most vapid meat4 ,slow boiling whitens the meat2 and1 we suspect1 that it is on this account that it is in such favour with the cooks4 ,the wholesomeness of food is1 however1 a matter of much greater moment than the appearance it presents on the table4 ,it should be borne in mind1 that the whiteness of meat that has been boiled slowly1 is produced by the loss of some important alimentary properties4 #eeh4 ,,the ,,objections ,,we ,,have ,,raised to the practice of putting meat on the fire in cold water1 apply with equal force to the practice of soaking meat before cooking it1 which is so strongly recommended by some cooks4 ,fresh meat ought never to be soaked1 as all its most nutritive constituents are soluble in water4 ,soaking1 however1 is an operation that cannot be entirely dispensed with in the preparation of animal food4 ,salted and dried meats require to be soaked for some time in water before they are cooked4 #eei4 ,,for ,,boiling ,,meat1 the softer the water is1 the better4 ,when spring water is boiled1 the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness1 is precipitated4 ,this chalk stains the meat1 and communicates to it an unpleasant earthy taste4 ,when nothing but hard water can be procured1 it should be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is used for culinary purposes4 #efj4 ,,the ,,fire ,,must ,,be ,,watched with great attention during the operation of boiling1 so that its heat may be properly regulated4 ,as a rule1 the pot should be kept in a simmering state2 a result which cannot be attained without vigilance4 #efa4 ,,the ,,temperature ,,at ,,which ,,water ,,boils1 under usual circumstances1 is #bab ,fahr4 ,water does not become hotter after it has begun to boil1 however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued4 ,this fact is of great importance in cookery1 and attention to it will save much fuel4 ,water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of a moderate heat is just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong fire with the greatest possible violence4 ,when once water has been brought to the boiling point1 the fire may be considerably reduced1 as a very gentle heat will suffice to keep the water at its highest temperature4 #efb4 ,,the ,,scum ,,which ,,rises to the surface of the pot during the operation of boiling must be carefully removed1 otherwise it will attach itself to the meat1 and thereby spoil its appearance4 ,the cook must not neglect to skim during the whole process1 though by far the greater part of the scum rises at first4 ,the practice of wrapping meat in a cloth may be dispensed with if the skimming be skillfully managed4 ,if the scum be removed as fast as it rises1 the meat will be cooked clean and pure1 and come out of the vessel in which it was boiled1 much more delicate and firm than when cooked in a cloth4 #efc4 ,,when ,,taken ,,from ,,the ,,pot1 the meat must be wiped with a clean cloth1 or1 what will be found more convenient1 a sponge previously dipped in water and wrung dry4 ,the meat should not be allowed to stand a moment longer than necessary1 as boiled meat1 as well as roasted1 cannot be eaten too hot4 #efd4 ,,the ,,time ,,allowed ,,for ,,the ,,operation ,,of ,,boiling must be regulated according to the size and quality of the meat4 ,as a general rule1 twenty minutes1 reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences1 may be allowed for every pound of meat4 ,all the best authorities1 however1 agree in this1 that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation4 #efe4 ,a ,,few ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,nutritive ,,value ,,of ,,salted ,,meat may be properly introduced in this place4 ,every housewife knows that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine4 ,the application of salt causes the fibres of the meat to contract1 and the juice to flow out from its pores3 as much as one-third of the juice of the meat is often forced out in this manner4 ,now1 as this juice is pure extract of meat1 containing albumen1 osmazome1 and other valuable principles1 it follows that meat which has been preserved by the action of salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat4 #eff4 ,,the ,,vessels ,,used ,,for ,,boiling should be made of cast-iron1 well tinned within1 and provided with closely-fitting lids4 ,they must be kept scrupulously clean1 otherwise they will render the meat cooked in them unsightly and unwholesome4 ,copper pans1 if used at all1 should be reserved for operations that are performed with rapidity2 as1 by long contact with copper1 food may become dangerously contaminated4 ,the kettle in which a joint is dressed should be large enough to allow room for a good supply of water2 if the meat be cramped and be surrounded with but little water1 it will be stewed1 not boiled4 #efg4 ,,in ,,stewing1 ,,it ,,is ,,not ,,requisite to have so great a heat as in boiling4 ,a gentle simmering in a small quantity of water1 so that the meat is stewed almost in its own juices1 is all that is necessary4 ,it is a method much used on the continent1 and is wholesome and economical4 ,illustration3 ,,boiling-,,pot4 ,illustration3 ,,stewpan4 ,two useful culinary vessels are represented above4 ,one is a boiling-pot1 in which large joints may be boiled2 the other is a stewpan1 with a closely-fitting lid1 to which is attached a long handle2 so that the cover can be removed without scalding the fingers4 ,illustration3 ,,hot-,,plate4 #efh4 ,,the ,,hot-,,plate is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges1 being used for boiling and stewing4 ,it is a plate of cast iron1 having a closed fire burning beneath it1 by which it is thoroughly well heated4 ,on this plate are set the various saucepans1 stewpans1 c42 and1 by this convenient and economical method1 a number of dishes may be prepared at one time4 ,the culinary processes of braising and stewing are1 in this manner1 rendered more gradual1 and consequently the substance acted on becomes more tender1 and the gravy is not so much reduced4 ,,broiling4 ,illustration3 ,,revolving ,,gridiron4 #efi4 ,,generally ,,speaking1 small dishes only are prepared by this mode of cooking2 amongst these1 the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitary ,english diner may be mentioned as celebrated all the world over4 ,our beef-steak1 indeed1 has long crossed the ,channel2 and1 with a view of pleasing the ,britons1 there is in every carte at every ,french restaurant1 by the side of la ,marengo1 and la ,mayonnaise1--bifteck d',angleterre4 ,in order to succeed in a broil1 the cook must have a bright1 clear fire2 so that the surface of the meat may be quickly heated4 ,the result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting2 namely1 that a crust1 so to speak1 is formed outside1 and thus the juices of the meat are retained4 ,the appetite of an invalid1 so difficult to minister to1 is often pleased with a broiled dish1 as the flavour and sapidity of the meat are so well preserved4 #egj4 ,,the ,,utensils ,,used ,,for ,,broiling need but little description4 ,the common gridiron1 for which see engraving at ,no4 #fh1 is the same as it has been for ages past1 although some little variety has been introduced into its manufacture1 by the addition of grooves to the bars1 by means of which the liquid fat is carried into a small trough4 ,one point it is well to bear in mind1 viz41 that the gridiron should be kept in a direction slanting towards the cook1 so that as little fat as possible may fall into the fire4 ,it has been observed1 that broiling is the most difficult manual office the general cook has to perform1 and one that requires the most unremitting attention2 for she may turn her back upon the stewpan or the spit1 but the gridiron can never be left with impunity4 ,the revolving gridiron1 shown in the engraving1 possesses some advantages of convenience1 which will be at once apparent4 ,,frying4 ,illustration3 ,,saut ,,pan4 #ega4 ,,this ,,very ,,favourite ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking may be accurately described as boiling in fat or oil4 ,substances dressed in this way are generally well received1 for they introduce an agreeable variety1 possessing1 as they do1 a peculiar flavour4 ,by means of frying1 cooks can soon satisfy many requisitions made on them1 it being a very expeditious mode of preparing dishes for the table1 and one which can be employed when the fire is not sufficiently large for the purposes of roasting and boiling4 ,the great point to be borne in mind in frying1 is that the liquid must be hot enough to act instantaneously1 as all the merit of this culinary operation lies in the invasion of the boiling liquid1 which carbonizes or burns1 at the very instant of the immersion of the body placed in it4 ,it may be ascertained if the fat is heated to the proper degree1 by cutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying-pan for five or six seconds2 and if it be firm and of a dark brown when taken out1 put in immediately what you wish to prepare2 if it be not1 let the fat be heated until of the right temperature4 ,this having been effected1 moderate the fire1 so that the action may not be too hurried1 and that by a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved1 and its flavour enhanced4 #egb4 ,,the ,,philosophy ,,of ,,frying consists in this1 that liquids subjected to the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat4 ,being differently constituted in their nature1 they possess different capacities for caloric4 ,thus1 you may1 with impunity1 dip your finger in boiling spirits of wine2 you would take it very quickly from boiling brandy1 yet more rapidly from water2 whilst the effects of the most rapid immersion in boiling oil need not be told4 ,as a consequence of this1 heated fluids act differently on the sapid bodies presented to them4 ,those put in water1 dissolve1 and are reduced to a soft mass2 the result being bouillon1 stock1 c4 7see ,no4 #ajc74 ,those substances1 on the contrary1 treated with oil1 harden1 assume a more or less deep colour1 and are finally carbonized4 ,the reason of these different results is1 that1 in the first instance1 water dissolves and extracts the interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it2 whilst1 in the second1 the juices are preserved2 for they are insoluble in oil4 #egc4 ,,it ,,is ,,to ,,be ,,especially ,,remembered1 in connection with frying1 that all dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper1 or sieve reversed1 and there left for a few minutes1 so that any superfluous greasy moisture may be removed4 #egd4 ,,the ,,utensils ,,used ,,for ,,the ,,purposes ,,of ,,frying are confined to frying-pans1 although these are of various sizes2 and1 for small and delicate dishes1 such as collops1 fritters1 pancakes1 c41 the saut pan1 of which we give an engraving1 is used4 ,,cooking ,,by ,,gas4 ,illustration3 ,,gas ,,stove4 #ege4 ,,gas-,,cooking can scarcely now be considered a novelty1--many establishments1 both small and large1 have been fitted with apparatus for cooking by this mode1 which undoubtedly exhibits some advantages4 ,thus the heat may be more regularly supplied to the substance cooking1 and the operation is essentially a clean one1 because there can be no cinders or other dirt to be provided for4 ,some labour and attention necessary1 too1 with a coal fire or close stove1 may be saved2 and1 besides this1 it may1 perhaps1 be said that culinary operations are reduced1 by this means1 to something like a certainty4 #egf4 ,,there ,,are1 ,,however1 ,,we ,,think1 ,,many ,,objections to this mode of cooking1 more especially when applied to small domestic establishments4 ,for instance1 the ingenious machinery necessary for carrying it out1 requires cooks perfectly conversant with its use2 and if the gas1 when the cooking operations are finished1 be not turned off1 there will be a large increase in the cost of cooking1 instead of the economy which it has been supposed to bring4 ,for large establishments1 such as some of the immense ,london warehouses1 where a large number of young men have to be catered for daily1 it may be well adapted1 as it is just possible that a slight increase in the supply of gas necessary for a couple of joints1 may serve equally to cook a dozen dishes4 ,,roasting4 #egg4 ,,of ,,the ,,various ,,methods ,,of ,,preparing ,,meat1 ,,roasting is that which most effectually preserves its nutritive qualities4 ,meat is roasted by being exposed to the direct influence of the fire4 ,this is done by placing the meat before an open grate1 and keeping it in motion to prevent the scorching on any particular part4 ,when meat is properly roasted1 the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated1 and thus presents a barrier to the exit of the juice4 ,in roasting meat1 the heat must be strongest at first1 and it should then be much reduced4 ,to have a good juicy roast1 therefore1 the fire must be red and vigorous at the very commencement of the operation4 ,in the most careful roasting1 some of the juice is squeezed out of the meat3 this evaporates on the surface of the meat1 and gives it a dark brown colour1 a rich lustre1 and a strong aromatic taste4 ,besides these effects on the albumen and the expelled juice1 roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine1 and melts the fat out of the fat-cells4 #egh4 ,,if ,a ,,spit is used to support the meat before the fire1 it should be kept quite bright4 ,sand and water ought to be used to scour it with1 for brickdust and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat4 ,when well scoured1 it must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth2 and1 in spitting the meat1 the prime parts should be left untouched1 so as to avoid any great escape of its juices4 #egi4 ,,kitchens ,,in ,,large ,,establishments are usually fitted with what are termed smoke-jacks4 ,by means of these1 several spits1 if required1 may be turned at the same time4 ,this not being1 of course1 necessary in smaller establishments1 a roasting apparatus1 more economical in its consumption of coal1 is more frequently in use4 ,illustration3 ,,bottle-,,jack1 ,,with ,,wheel ,,and ,,hook4 #ehj4 ,,the ,,bottle-,,jack1 of which we here give an illustration1 with the wheel and hook1 and showing the precise manner of using it1 is now commonly used in many kitchens4 ,this consists of a spring inclosed in a brass cylinder1 and requires winding up before it is used1 and sometimes1 also1 during the operation of roasting4 ,the joint is fixed to an iron hook1 which is suspended by a chain connected with a wheel1 and which1 in its turn1 is connected with the bottle-jack4 ,beneath it stands the dripping-pan1 which we have also engraved1 together with the basting-ladle1 the use of which latter should not be spared2 as there can be no good roast without good basting4 ,spare the rod1 and spoil the child1 might easily be paraphrased into ,spare the basting1 and spoil the meat4 ,if the joint is small and light1 and so turns unsteadily1 this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of the kitchen weights4 ,sometimes this jack is fixed inside a screen2 but there is this objection to this apparatus1--that the meat cooked in it resembles the flavour of baked meat4 ,this is derived from its being so completely surrounded with the tin1 that no sufficient current of air gets to it4 ,it will be found preferable to make use of a common meat-screen1 such as is shown in the woodcut4 ,this contains shelves for warming plates and dishes2 and with this1 the reflection not being so powerful1 and more air being admitted to the joint1 the roast may be very excellently cooked4 ,illustration3 ,,dripping-,,pan ,,and ,,basting-,,ladle4 #eha4 ,,in ,,stirring ,,the ,,fire1 or putting fresh coals on it1 the dripping-pan should always be drawn back1 so that there may be no danger of the coal1 cinders1 or ashes falling down into it4 #ehb4 ,,under ,,each ,,particular ,,recipe there is stated the time required for roasting each joint2 but1 as a general rule1 it may be here given1 that for every pound of meat1 in ordinary-sized joints1 a quarter of an hour may be allotted4 ,illustration3 ,,heat-,,screen4 #ehc4 ,,white ,,meats1 ,,and ,,the ,,meat ,,of ,,young ,,animals1 require to be very well roasted1 both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion4 ,thus veal1 pork1 and lamb1 should be thoroughly done to the centre4 #ehd4 ,,mutton ,,and ,,beef1 on the other hand1 do not1 generally speaking1 require to be so thoroughly done1 and they should be dressed to the point1 that1 in carving them1 the gravy should just run1 but not too freely4 ,of course in this1 as in most other dishes1 the tastes of individuals vary2 and there are many who cannot partake1 with satisfaction1 of any joint unless it is what others would call overdressed4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,quadrupeds4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,quadrupeds4 #ehe4 ,,by ,,the ,,general ,,assent ,,of ,,mankind1 ,,the ,,empire ,,of ,,nature has been divided into three kingdoms2 the first consisting of minerals1 the second of vegetables1 and the third of animals4 ,the ,mineral ,kingdom comprises all substances which are without those organs necessary to locomotion1 and the due performance of the functions of life4 ,they are composed of the accidental aggregation of particles1 which1 under certain circumstances1 take a constant and regular figure1 but which are more frequently found without any definite conformation4 ,they also occupy the interior parts of the earth1 as well as compose those huge masses by which we see the land in some parts guarded against the encroachments of the sea4 ,the ,vegetable ,kingdom covers and beautifies the earth with an endless variety of form and colour4 ,it consists of organized bodies1 but destitute of the power of locomotion4 ,they are nourished by means of roots2 they breathe by means of leaves2 and propagate by means of seed1 dispersed within certain limits4 ,the ,animal ,kingdom consists of sentient beings1 that enliven the external parts of the earth4 ,they possess the powers of voluntary motion1 respire air1 and are forced into action by the cravings of hunger or the parching of thirst1 by the instincts of animal passion1 or by pain4 ,like the vegetable kingdom1 they are limited within the boundaries of certain countries by the conditions of climate and soil2 and some of the species prey upon each other4 ,linnaeus has divided them into six classes2--,mammalia1 ,birds1 ,fishes1 ,amphibious ,animals1 ,insects1 and ,worms4 ,the three latter do not come within the limits of our domain2 of fishes we have already treated1 of birds we shall treat1 and of mammalia we will now treat4 #ehf4 ,,this ,,class ,,of ,,animals embraces all those that nourish their young by means of lacteal glands1 or teats1 and are so constituted as to have a warm or red blood4 ,in it the whale is placed1--an order which1 from external habits1 has usually been classed with the fishes2 but1 although this animal exclusively inhabits the water1 and is supplied with fins1 it nevertheless exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds4 ,it has warm blood1 and produces its young alive2 it nourishes them with milk1 and1 for that purpose1 is furnished with teats4 ,it is also supplied with lungs1 and two auricles and two ventricles to the heart2 all of which bring it still closer into an alliance with the quadrupedal species of the animal kingdom4 #ehg4 ,,the ,,general ,,characteristics ,,of ,,the ,,mammalia have been frequently noticed4 ,the bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with hair1 a kind of clothing which is both soft and warm1 little liable to injury1 and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and the nature of the climate it inhabits4 ,in all the higher orders of animals1 the head is the principal seat of the organs of sense4 ,it is there that the eyes1 the ears1 the nose1 and the mouth are placed4 ,through the last they receive their nourishment4 ,in it are the teeth1 which1 in most of the mammalia1 are used not only for the mastication of food1 but as weapons of offence4 ,they are inserted into two movable bones called jaws1 and the front teeth are so placed that their sharp edges may easily be brought in contact with their food1 in order that its fibres may readily be separated4 ,next to these1 on each side1 are situated the canine teeth1 or tusks1 which are longer than the other teeth1 and1 being pointed1 are used to tear the food4 ,in the back jaws are placed another form of teeth1 called grinders4 ,these are for masticating the food2 and in those animals that live on vegetables1 they are flattened at the top2 but1 in carnivora1 their upper surfaces are furnished with sharp-pointed protuberances4 ,from the numbers1 form1 and disposition of the teeth1 the various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged4 ,the nose is a cartilaginous body1 pierced with two holes1 which are called nostrils4 ,through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell2 and in some it is prominent1 whilst in others it is flat1 compressed1 turned upwards1 or bent downwards4 ,in beasts of prey1 it is frequently longer than the lips2 and in some other animals it is elongated into a movable trunk or proboscis1 whilst1 in the rhinoceros tribe1 it is armed with a horn4 ,the eyes of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable lids1 on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair1 called eyelashes4 ,the opening of the pupil is in general circular2 but to some species1 as in those of the ,cat and ,hare1 it is contracted into a perpendicular line1 whilst in the ,horse1 the ,ox1 and a few others1 it forms a transverse bar4 ,the ears are openings1 generally accompanied with a cartilage which defends and covers them1 called the external ears4 ,in water-animals the latter are wanting2 sound1 in them1 being transmitted merely through orifices in the head1 which have the name of auditory-holes4 ,the most defenceless animals are extremely delicate in the sense of hearing1 as are likewise most beasts of prey4 ,most of the mammiferous animals walk on four feet1 which1 at the extremities1 are usually divided into toes or fingers4 ,in some1 however1 the feet end in a single corneous substance called a hoof4 ,the toes of a few end in broad1 flat nails1 and of most others1 in pointed claws4 ,some1 again1 have the toes connected by a membrane1 which is adapted to those that are destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water4 ,others1 again1 as in the ,bat1 have the digitations of the anterior feet greatly elongated1 the intervening space being filled by a membrane1 which extends round the hinder legs and tail1 and by means of which they are enabled to rise into the air4 ,in ,man1 the hand alone comprises fingers1 separate1 free1 and flexible2 but ,apes1 and some other kinds of animals1 have fingers both to the hands and feet4 ,these1 therefore1 are the only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand4 ,others1 such as ,rats and ,squirrels1 have the fingers sufficiently small and flexible to enable them to pick up objects2 but they are compelled to hold them in both hands4 ,others1 again1 have the toes shorter1 and must rest on the fore-feet1 as is the case with dogs and cats when they wish to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws4 ,there are still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin1 or enveloped in corneous hoofs1 and are thereby enabled to exercise no prehensile power whatever4 #ehh4 ,,according ,,to ,,the ,,design ,,and ,,end ,,of ,,nature1 mammiferous animals are calculated1 when arrived at maturity1 to subsist on various kinds of food1--some to live wholly upon flesh1 others upon grain1 herbs1 or fruits2 but in their infant state1 milk is the appropriate food of the whole4 ,that this food may never fail them1 it is universally ordained1 that the young should no sooner come into the world1 than the milk should flow in abundance into the members with which the mother is supplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid4 ,by a wonderful instinct of ,nature1 too1 the young animal1 almost as soon as it has come into life1 searches for the teat1 and knows perfectly1 at the first1 how1 by the process of suction1 it will be able to extract the fluid necessary to its existence4 #ehi4 ,,in ,,the ,,general ,,economy ,,of ,,nature1 this class of animals seems destined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animated beings that hold their existence on the surface of the earth4 ,to man they are immediately useful in various ways4 ,some of their bodies afford him food1 their skin shoes1 and their fleece clothes4 ,some of them unite with him in participating the dangers of combat with an enemy1 and others assist him in the chase1 in exterminating wilder sorts1 or banishing them from the haunts of civilization4 ,many1 indeed1 are injurious to him2 but most of them1 in some shape or other1 he turns to his service4 ,of these there is none he has made more subservient to his purposes than the common ox1 of which there is scarcely a part that he has not been able to convert into some useful purpose4 ,of the horns he makes drinking-vessels1 knife-handles1 combs1 and boxes2 and when they are softened by means of boiling water1 he fashions them into transparent plates for lanterns4 ,this invention is ascribed to ,king ,alfred1 who is said to have been the first to use them to preserve his candle time-measures from the wind4 ,glue is made of the cartilages1 gristles1 and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings of the hides4 ,their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory4 ,the thinnest of the calf-skins are manufactured into vellum4 ,their blood is made the basis of ,prussian blue1 and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared from their sinews4 ,the hair is used in various valuable manufactures2 the suet1 fat1 and tallow1 are moulded into candles2 and the milk and cream of the cow yield butter and cheese4 ,thus is every part of this animal valuable to man1 who has spared no pains to bring it to the highest state of perfection4 ,illustration3 ,,short-,,horn ,,cow4 ,illustration3 ,,short-,,horn ,,bull4 #eij4 ,,among ,,the ,,various ,,breeds ,,of ,,the ,,ox1 upon which man has bestowed his highest powers of culture1 there is now none takes a higher place than that known by the name of ,short-,horns4 ,from the earliest ages1 ,great ,britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds of cattle1 and there are none in ,england that have obtained greater celebrity than those which have this name1 and which originated1 about seventy years ago1 on the banks of the ,tees4 ,thence they have spread into the valleys of the ,tweed2 thence to the ,lothians1 in ,scotland2 and southward1 into the fine pastures of ,england4 ,they are now esteemed the most profitable breed of cattle1 as there is no animal which attains sooner to maturity1 and none that supplies meat of a superior quality4 ,the value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous4 ,at the sale of ,mr4 ,charles ,colling1 a breeder in ,yorkshire1 in #ahaj1 his bull ,comet sold for #a1jjj guineas4 ,at the sale of ,earl ,spencer's herd in #ahdf1 #ajd cows1 heifers1 and calves1 with nineteen bulls1 fetched #h1dfh4 #es42 being an average of #fh4 #ags4 apiece4 ,the value of such animals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted with the care with which they are tended1 and with the anxious attention which is paid to the purity of their breed4 ,a modern writer1 well acquainted with this subject1 says1 ,there are now1 at least1 five hundred herds1 large and small1 in this kingdom1 and from six to seven thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book4 ,the necessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might1 at first sight1 be imagined1 as it tends directly to preserve the character of the cattle1 while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of the animal thus entered4 ,besides1 many of the ,americans1 and large purchasers for the foreign market1 will not look at an animal without the breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference4 ,of short-horned stock1 there is annually sold from #dj1jjj to #ej1jjj worth by public auction1 independent of the vast numbers disposed of by private contract4 ,the brood is highly prized in ,belgium1 ,prussia1 ,france1 ,italy1 and ,russia2 it is imported into most of the ,british colonies1 and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairy produce1 wherever it is known4 ,the quickness with which it takes on flesh1 and the weight which it frequently makes1 are well known2 but we may mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to five years old realize a weight of from #hjj to #a1jjj lbs4 ,such animals command from the butcher from #cj to #dj per head1 according to the quality2 whilst others1 of two or three years old1 and1 of course1 of less ,weight1 bring as much as #bj apiece4 ,illustration3 ,,long-,,horn ,,bull4 ,illustration3 ,,long-,,horn ,,cow4 #eia4 ,,long-,,horns4--,this is the prevailing breed in our midland counties and in ,ireland2 but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns1 and are fast being supplanted by them4 ,even where they have been cultivated with the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection1 they are inferior to the others1 and must ultimately be driven from the farm4 ,illustration3 ,,alderney ,,cow4 ,illustration3 ,,alderney ,,bull4 #eib4 ,,the ,,alderney4--,among the dairy breeds of ,england1 the ,alderney takes a prominent place1 not on account of the quantity of milk which it yields1 but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butter which are produced from it4 ,its docility is marvellous1 and in appearance it greatly resembles the ,ayrshire breed of ,scotland1 the excellence of which is supposed to be1 in some degree1 derived from a mixture of the ,alderney blood with that breed4 ,the distinction between them1 however1 lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk which they severally produce2 that of the ,alderney being rich in quality1 and that of the ,ayrshire abundant in quantity4 ,the merit of the former1 however1 ends with its milk1 for as a grazer it is worthless4 ,illustration3 ,,galloway ,,bull4 ,illustration3 ,,galloway ,,cow4 #eic4 ,,scottish ,,breeds4--,of these the ,kyloe1 which belongs to the ,highlands of ,scotland2 the ,galloway1 which has been called the ,kyloe without horns2 and the ,ayrshire1 are the breeds most celebrated4 ,the first has kept his place1 and on account of the compactness of his form1 and the excellent quality of his flesh1 he is a great favourite with butchers who have a select family trade4 ,it is alike unsuitable for the dairy and the arable farm2 but in its native ,highlands it attains to great perfection1 thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which it gathers on the sides of the mountains4 ,the ,galloway has a larger frame1 and when fattened makes excellent beef4 ,but it has given place to the short-horns in its native district1 where turnip-husbandry is pursued with advantage4 ,the ,ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy1 and for the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its native district4 ,in this it stands unrivalled1 and there is no other breed capable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butter and cheese4 ,it is difficult to fatten1 however1 and its beef is of a coarse quality4 ,we have chosen these as among the principal representative breeds of the ox species2 but there are other breeds which1 at all events1 have a local if not a general celebrity4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,of ,,beef1 ,,showing ,,the ,,several ,,joints4 #eid4 ,the general ,mode of ,slaughtering ,oxen in this country is by striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head1 a little above the eyes4 ,by this means1 when the blow is skilfully given1 the beast is brought down at one blow1 and1 to prevent recovery1 a cane is generally inserted1 by which the spinal cord is perforated1 which instantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain4 ,in ,spain1 and some other countries on the continent1 it is also usual to deprive oxen of life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the neck1 close to the back part of the head4 ,this is1 in effect1 the same mode as is practised in the celebrated ,spanish bull-fights by the matador1 and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation1 if the operator be skilful4 ,we hope and believe that those men whose disagreeable duty it is to slaughter the beasts of the field to provide meat for mankind1 inflict as little punishment and cause as little suffering as possible4 #eie4 ,,the ,,manner ,,in ,,which ,a ,,side ,,of ,,beef is cut up in ,london1 is shown in the engraving on this page4 ,in the metropolis1 on account of the large number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the best of everything1 the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great1 the price1 at the same time1 being much higher for these than for the other parts4 ,the consequence is1 that in ,london the carcass is there divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most esteemed joints4 ,in many places1 however1 where1 from a greater equality in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants1 the demand and prices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized1 there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so large4 #eif4 ,,the ,,meat ,,on ,,those ,,parts ,,of ,,the ,,animal in which the muscles are least called into action1 is most tender and succulent2 as1 for instance1 along the back1 from the rump to the hinder part of the shoulder2 whilst the limbs1 shoulder1 and neck1 are the toughest1 driest1 and least-esteemed4 #eig4 ,,the ,,names ,,of ,,the ,,several ,,joints in the hind and fore quarters of a side of beef1 and the purposes for which they are used1 are as follows3-- ,,hind ,,quarter4 #a4 ,sirloin4--,the two sirloins1 cut together in one joint1 form a baron2 this1 when roasted1 is the famous national dish of ,englishmen1 at entertainments1 on occasion of rejoicing4 #b4 ,rump1--the finest part for steaks4 #c4 ,aitch-bone1--boiling piece4 #d4 ,buttock1--prime boiling piece4 #e4 ,mouse-round1--boiling or stewing4 #f4 ,hock1--stewing4 #g4 ,thick flank1 cut with the udder-fat1--primest boiling piece4 #h4 ,thin flank1--boiling4 ,,fore ,,quarter4 #i4 ,five ribs1 called the fore-rib4--,this is considered the primest roasting piece4 #aj4 ,four ribs1 called the middle-rib1--greatly esteemed by housekeepers as the most economical joint for roasting4 #aa4 ,two ribs1 called the chuck-rib1--used for second quality of steaks4 #ab4 ,leg-of-mutton piece1--the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the breast4 #ac4 ,brisket1 or breast1--used for boiling1 after being salted4 #ad4 ,neck1 clod1 and sticking-piece1--used for soups1 gravies1 stocks1 pies1 and mincing for sausages4 #ae4 ,shin1--stewing4 ,the following is a classification of the qualities of meat1 according to the several joints of beef1 when cut up in the ,london manner4 ,first class4--includes the sirloin1 with the kidney suet 7#a71 the rump-steak piece 7#b71 the fore-rib 7#i74 ,second class4--,the buttock 7#d71 the thick flank 7#g71 the middle-rib 7#aj74 ,third class4--,the aitch-bone 7#c71 the mouse-round 7#e71 the thin flank 7#h71 the chuck 7#aa71 the leg-of-mutton piece 7#ab71 the brisket 7#ac74 ,fourth class4--,the neck1 clod1 and sticking-piece 7#ad74 ,fifth class4--,the hock 7#f71 the shin 7#ae74 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,baked ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 ,i4 #eih4 ,,ingredients4--,about #b lbs4 of cold roast beef1 #b small onions1 #a large carrot or two small ones1 #a turnip1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 #d tablespoonfuls of gravy1 #c tablespoonfuls of ale1 crust or mashed potatoes4 ,mode4--,cut the beef in slices1 allowing a small amount of fat to each slice2 place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish1 with a portion of the onions1 carrots1 and turnips1 which must be sliced2 mince the herbs1 strew them over the meat1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,then put another layer of meat1 vegetables1 and seasoning2 and proceed in this manner until all the ingredients are used4 ,pour in the gravy and ale 7water may be substituted for the former1 but it is not so nice71 cover with a crust or mashed potatoes1 and bake for #a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,it is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding them to the meat1 and to use some of the liquor in which they were boiled as a substitute for gravy2 that is to say1 when there is no gravy at hand4 ,be particular to cut the onions in very thin slices4 ,,ii4 #eii4 ,,ingredients4--,slices of cold roast beef1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a sliced onion1 #a teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs1 #e or #f tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind1 mashed potatoes4 ,mode4--,butter the sides of a deep dish1 and spread mashed potatoes over the bottom of it2 on this place layers of beef in thin slices 7this may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices71 well seasoned with pepper and salt1 and a very little onion end herbs1 which should be previously fried of a nice brown2 then put another layer of mashed potatoes1 and beef1 and other ingredients1 as before2 pour in the gravy or sauce1 cover the whole with another layer of potatoes1 and bake for #a_/b hour4 ,this may be served in the dish1 or turned out4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold beef1 #f;d4 ,sufficient4--,a large pie-dish full for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef4--,the quality of beef depends on various circumstances2 such as the age1 the sex1 the breed of the animal1 and also on the food upon which it has been raised4 ,bull beef is1 in general1 dry and tough1 and by no means possessed of an agreeable flavour2 whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly nourishing and digestible1 but1 if not too old1 extremely agreeable4 ,the flesh of the cow is1 also1 nourishing1 but it is not so agreeable as that of the ox1 although that of a heifer is held in high estimation4 ,the flesh of the smaller breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger1 which is best when the animal is about seven years old4 ,that of the smaller breeds is best at about five years1 and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too young4 ,,baked ,,beef-,,steak ,,pudding4 #fjj4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of flour1 #b eggs1 not quite #a pint of milk1 salt to taste1 #a-a_/b lb4 of rump-steaks1 #a kidney1 pepper and salt4 ,mode4--,cut the steaks into nice square pieces1 with a small quantity of fat1 and the kidney divide into small pieces4 ,make a batter of flour1 eggs1 and milk in the above proportion2 lay a little of it at the bottom of a pie-dish2 then put in the steaks and kidney1 which should be well seasoned with pepper and salt1 and pour over the remainder of the batter1 and bake for #a-a_/b hour in a brisk but not fierce oven4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef ,a ,,la ,,mode4 7,economical47 #fja4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c lbs4 of clod or sticking of beef1 #b oz4 of clarified dripping1 #a large onion1 flour1 #b quarts of water1 #ab berries of allspice1 #b bay-leaves1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole black pepper1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into small pieces1 and roll them in flour2 put the dripping into a stewpan with the onion1 which should be sliced thin4 ,let it get quite hot2 lay in the pieces of beef1 and stir them well about4 ,when nicely browned all over1 add by degrees boiling water in the above proportion1 and1 as the water is added1 keep the whole well stirred4 ,put in the spice1 bay-leaves1 and seasoning1 cover the stewpan closely1 and set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently1 till the meat becomes quite tender1 which will be in about #c hours1 when it will be ready to serve4 ,remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to table4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef ,a ,,la ,,mode4 #fjb4 ,,ingredients4--#f or #g lbs4 of the thick flank of beef1 a few slices of fat bacon1 #a teacupful of vinegar1 black pepper1 allspice1 #b cloves well mixed and finely pounded1 making altogether #a heaped teaspoonful2 salt to taste1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 all finely minced and well mixed2 #c onions1 #b large carrots1 #a turnip1 #a head of celery1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 #a glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,slice and fry the onions of a pale brown1 and cut up the other vegetables in small pieces1 and prepare the beef for stewing in the following manner3--,choose a fine piece of beef1 cut the bacon into long slices1 about an inch in thickness1 dip them into vinegar1 and then into a little of the above seasoning of spice1 c41 mixed with the same quantity of minced herbs4 ,with a sharp knife make holes deep enough to let in the bacon2 then rub the beef over with the remainder of the seasoning and herbs1 and bind it up in a nice shape with tape4 ,have ready a well-tinned stewpan 7it should not be much larger than the piece of meat you are cooking71 into which put the beef1 with the vegetables1 vinegar1 and water4 ,let it simmer very gently for #e hours1 or rather longer1 should the meat not be extremely tender1 and turn it once or twice4 ,when ready to serve1 take out the beef1 remove the tape1 and put it on a hot dish4 ,skim off every particle of fat from the gravy1 add the port wine1 just let it boil1 pour it over the beef1 and it is ready to serve4 ,great care must be taken that this does not boil fast1 or the meat will be tough and tasteless2 it should only just bubble4 ,when convenient1 all kinds of stews1 c41 should be cooked on a hot-plate1 as the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire4 ,time4--#e hours1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable for a winter dish4 ,,good ,,meat4--,the lyer of meat when freshly killed1 and the animal1 when slaughtered1 being in a state of perfect health1 adheres firmly to the bones4 ,beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour2 and when the animal has approached maturity1 and been well fed1 the lean is intermixed with fat1 giving it the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed4 ,it is also full of juice1 which resembles in colour claret wine4 ,the fat of the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency1 of a colour resembling that of the finest grass butter2 bright in appearance1 neither greasy nor friable to the touch1 but moderately unctuous1 in a medium degree between the last-mentioned properties4 ,,beef-,,steaks ,,and ,,oyster ,,sauce4 #fjc4 ,,ingredients4--#c dozen oysters1 ingredients for oyster sauce 7see ,no4 #dib71 #b lbs4 of rump-steak1 seasoning to taste of pepper and salt4 ,mode4--,make the oyster sauce by recipe ,no4 #dib1 and when that is ready1 put it by the side of the fire1 but do not let it keep boiling4 ,have the steaks cut of an equal thickness1 broil them over a very clear fire1 turning them often1 that the gravy may not escape4 ,in about #h minutes they will be done1 then put them on a very hot dish2 smother with the oyster sauce1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,serve quickly4 ,time4--,about #h to #aj minutes1 according to the thickness of the steak4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,beef-,,steak ,,pie4 #fjd4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of rump-steak1 seasoning to taste of salt1 cayenne1 and black pepper1 crust1 water1 the yolk of an egg4 ,mode4--,have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days1 that they may be tender1 and be particular that every portion is perfectly sweet4 ,cut the steaks into pieces about #c inches long and #b wide1 allowing a small piece of fat to each piece of lean1 and arrange the meat in layers in a pie-dish4 ,between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt1 pepper1 and1 when liked1 a few grains of cayenne4 ,fill the dish sufficiently with meat to support the crust1 and to give it a nice raised appearance when baked1 and not to look flat and hollow4 ,pour in sufficient water to half fill the dish1 and border it with paste 7see ,pastry72 brush it over with a little water1 and put on the cover2 slightly press down the edges with the thumb1 and trim off close to the dish4 ,ornament the pie with leaves1 or pieces of paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct1 brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg2 make a hole in the top of the crust1 and bake in a hot oven for about #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--,in a hot oven1 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for this size1 #cs #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways1 with oysters and their liquor1 mushrooms1 minced onions1 c4 ,for family pies1 suet may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust1 and clarified beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object4 ,pieces of underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously2 but always remove the bone from pie-meat1 unless it be chicken or game4 ,we have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the case2 for on trial we have found it much more tender1 more easily helped1 and with more gravy1 than when put into the dish in one or two large steaks4 ,illustration3 ,,sherry ,,pudding ,,dish4 ,,beef-,,steak ,,and ,,kidney ,,pudding4 #fje4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of rump-steak1 #b kidneys1 seasoning to taste of salt and black pepper1 suet crust made with milk 7see ,pastry71 in the proportion of #f oz4 of suet to each #a lb4 of flour4 ,mode4--,procure some tender rump steak 7that which has been hung a little time71 and divide it into pieces about an inch square1 and cut each kidney into #h pieces4 ,line the dish 7of which we have given an engraving7 with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion1 leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge4 ,then cover the bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney2 season with salt and pepper 7some add a little flour to thicken the gravy1 but it is not necessary71 and then add another layer of steak1 kidney1 and seasoning4 ,proceed in this manner till the dish is full1 when pour in sufficient water to come within #b inches of the top of the basin4 ,moisten the edges of the crust1 cover the pudding over1 press the two crusts together1 that the gravy may not escape1 and turn up the overhanging paste4 ,wring out a cloth in hot water1 flour it1 and tie up the pudding2 put it into boiling water1 and let it boil for at least #d hours4 ,if the water diminishes1 always replenish with some1 hot in a jug1 as the pudding should be kept covered all the time1 and not allowed to stop boiling4 ,when the cloth is removed1 cut out a round piece in the top of the crust1 to prevent the pudding bursting1 and send it to table in the basin1 either in an ornamental dish1 or with a napkin pinned round it4 ,serve quickly4 ,time4--,for a pudding with #b lbs4 of steak and #b kidneys allow #d hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable in winter4 ,note4--,beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few oysters or mushrooms4 ,the above recipe was contributed to this work by a ,sussex lady1 in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury puddings4 ,it differs from the general way of making them1 as the meat is cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped3 on trial1 this pudding will be found far nicer1 and more full of gravy1 than when laid in large pieces in the dish4 ,,bad ,,meat4 ,in the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering acute inflammation or fever1 the hollow fibres1 or capillaries1 as they are called1 which form the substance of the lyer1 are filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid1 which1 from its impurity1 gives the lyer a dark colour1 and produces a tendency to rapid putrefaction4 ,in a more advanced stage of such disease1 serous1 and sometimes purulent matter1 is formed in the cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh2 and when such is the case1 nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable carrion4 ,in the flesh of animals killed whilst under the influence of any disease of an emaciating effect1 the lyer adheres but slightly to the bones1 with its fibres contracted and dry2 and the little fat that there may be is friable1 and shrunk within its integuments4 ,the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst under considerable depression of vital energy 7as from previous bleeding7 has a diminished tendency to stiffen after death1 the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to the degree of depression4 ,it presents1 also1 an unnatural blue or pallid appearance1 has a faint and slightly sour smell1 and soon becomes putrid4 ,when an animal has died otherwise than by slaughtering1 its flesh is flaccid and clammy1 emits a peculiar faint and disagreeable smell1 and1 it need scarcely be added1 spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly4 ,,beef-,,steaks ,,with ,,fried ,,potatoes1 or ,,biftek ,,aux ,,pommes-,,de-,,terre 7a la mode ,francaise74 #fjf4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of steak1 #h potatoes1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of minced herbs4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a frying or saut pan1 set it over the fire1 and let it get very hot2 peel1 and cut the potatoes into long thin slices2 put them into the hot butter1 and fry them till of a nice brown colour4 ,now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire1 turning them frequently1 that every part may be equally done3 as they should not be thick1 #e minutes will broil them4 ,put the herbs and seasoning in the butter the potatoes were fried in1 pour it under the steak1 and place the fried potatoes round1 as a garnish4 ,to have this dish in perfection1 a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used1 as the meat is generally so much more tender than that of the rump1 and the steaks should be cut about #a_/c of an inch in thickness4 ,time4--#e minutes to broil the steaks1 and about the same time to fry the potatoes4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable all the year2 but not so good in warm weather1 as the meat cannot hang to get tender4 ,illustration3 ,,aitch-,,bone ,,of ,,beef4 ,,boiled ,,aitch-,,bone ,,of ,,beef4 #fjg4 ,,ingredients4--,beef1 water4 ,mode4--,after this joint has been in salt #e or #f days1 it will be ready for use1 and will not take so long boiling3 as a round1 for it is not so solid4 ,wash the meat1 and1 if too salt1 soak it for a few hours1 changing the water once or twice1 till the required freshness is obtained4 ,put into a saucepan1 or boiling-pot1 sufficient water to cover the meat2 set it over the fire1 and when it boils1 plunge in the joint 7see ,no4 #eeg71 and let it boil up quickly4 ,now draw the pot to the side of the fire1 and let the process be very gradual1 as the water must only simmer1 or the meat will be hard and tough4 ,carefully remove the scum from the surface of the water1 and continue doing this for a few minutes after it first boils4 ,carrots and turnips are served with this dish1 and sometimes suet dumplings1 which may be boiled with the beef4 ,garnish with a few of the carrots and turnips1 and serve the remainder in a vegetable-dish4 ,time4--,an aitch-bone of #aj lbs41 #b-a_/b hours after the water boils2 one of #bj lbs41 #d hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--#aj lbs4 for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,the liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily converted into a very excellent pea-soup4 ,it will require very few vegetables1 as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled with the meat4 ,,the ,,action ,,of ,,salt ,,on ,,meat4--,the manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to understand4 ,by its strong affinity1 it1 in the first place1 extracts the juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution with the water contained in the juice1 and the meat then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt4 ,in this way1 matter incapable of putrefaction takes the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable4 ,such1 however1 is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat2 it acts also by its astringency in contracting the fibres of the muscles1 and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the substance of the meat4 ,the last-mentioned operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied4 ,the astringent action of saltpetre on meat is much greater than that of salt1 and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard2 but1 in small quantities1 it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt1 and also prevents the destruction of the florid colour of meat1 which is caused by the application of salt4 ,thus1 it will be perceived1 from the foregoing statement1 that the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes1 in a considerable degree1 the nutritive1 and1 to some extent1 the wholesome qualities of meat2 and1 therefore1 in their use1 the quantity applied should be as small as possible1 consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat4 ,,boiled ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 #fjh4 ,,ingredients4--,beef1 water4 ,mode4--,as a whole round of beef1 generally speaking1 is too large for small families1 and very seldom required1 we here give the recipe for dressing a portion of the silver side of the round4 ,take from #ab to #af lbs41 after it has been in salt about #aj days2 just wash off the salt1 skewer it up in a nice round-looking form1 and bind it with tape to keep the skewers in their places4 ,put it in a saucepan of boiling water1 as in the preceding recipe1 set it upon a good fire1 and when it begins to boil1 carefully remove all scum from the surface1 as1 if this is not attended to1 it sinks on to the meat1 and when brought to table1 presents a very unsightly appearance4 ,when it is well skimmed1 draw the pot to the corner of the fire1 and let it simmer very gently until done4 ,remove the tape and skewers1 which should be replaced by a silver one2 pour over a little of the pot-liquor1 and garnish with carrots4 7,see coloured plate #b47 ,carrots1 turnips1 parsnips1 and sometimes suet dumplings1 accompany this dish2 and these may all be boiled with the beef4 ,the pot-liquor should be saved1 and converted into pea-soup2 and the outside slices1 which are generally hard1 and of an uninviting appearance1 may be out off before being sent to table1 and potted4 ,these make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table4 ,time4--,part of a round of beef weighing #ab lbs41 about #c hours after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #aj persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable for winter4 #fji4 ,,soyer',s ,,recipe ,,for ,,preserving ,,the ,,gravy ,,in ,,salt ,,meat1 ,,when ,,it ,,is ,,to ,,be ,,served ,,cold4--,fill two tubs with cold water1 into which throw a few pounds of rough ice2 and when the meat is done1 put it into one of the tubs of ice-water2 let it remain #a minute1 when take out1 and put it into the other tub4 ,fill the first tub again with water1 and continue this process for about #bj minutes2 then set it upon a dish1 and let it remain until quite cold4 ,when cut1 the fat will be as white as possible1 besides having saved the whole1 of the gravy4 ,if there is no ice1 spring water will answer the same purpose1 but will require to be more frequently changed4 ,note4--,the ,,brisket and ,,rump may be boiled by the above recipe2 of course allowing more or less time1 according to the size of the joint4 ,,beef ,,cake4 #faj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast beef2 to each pound of cold meat allow #a_/d lb4 of bacon or ham2 seasoning to taste of pepper and salt1 #a small bunch of minced savoury herbs1 #a or #b eggs4 ,mode4--,mince the beef very finely 7if underdone it will be better71 add to it the bacon1 which must also be chopped very small1 and mix well together4 ,season1 stir in the herbs1 and bind with an egg1 or #b should #a not be sufficient4 ,make it into small square cakes1 about #a_/b inch thick1 fry them in hot dripping1 and serve in a dish with good gravy poured round them4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,broiled ,,beef-,,steaks or ,,rump-,,steaks4 #faa4 ,,ingredients4--,steaks1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or ,harvey's sauce4 ,mode4--,as the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of the fire1 see that it is bright and clear1 and perfectly free from smoke1 and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the gridiron4 ,sprinkle a little salt over the fire1 put on the gridiron for a few minutes1 to get thoroughly hot through2 rub it with a piece of fresh1 suet1 to prevent the meat from sticking1 and lay on the steaks1 which should be cut of an equal thickness1 about #c_/d of an inch1 or rather thinner1 and level them by beating them as little as possible with a rolling-pin4 ,turn them frequently with steak-tongs 7if these are not at hand1 stick a fork in the edge of the fat1 that no gravy escapes71 and in from #h to #aj minutes they will be done4 ,have ready a very hot dish1 into which put the ketchup1 and1 when liked1 a little minced shalot2 dish up the steaks1 rub them over with butter1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,the exact time for broiling steaks must be determined by taste1 whether they are liked underdone or well done2 more than from #h to #aj minutes for a steak #c_/d inch in thickness1 we think1 would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat4 ,great expedition is necessary in sending broiled steaks to table2 and1 to have them in perfection1 they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for dinner has been dished up1 as their excellence entirely depends on their being served very hot4 ,garnish with scraped horseradish1 or slices of cucumber4 ,oyster1 tomato1 onion1 and many other sauces1 are frequent accompaniments to rump-steak1 but true lovers of this ,english dish generally reject all additions but pepper and salt4 ,time4--#h to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a_/b lb4 to each person2 if the party consist entirely of gentlemen1 #c_/d lb4 will not be too much4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not good in the height of summer1 as the meat cannot hang long enough to be tender4 ,,different ,,seasons ,,for ,,beef4--,we have already stated 7see ,no4 #eic7 that the ,scots breed of oxen1 like the ,south-down in mutton1 stands first in excellence4 ,it should be borne in mind1 however1 that each county has its particular season1 and that the ,london and other large markets are always supplied by those counties whose meat1 from local circumstances1 is in the best condition at the time4 ,thus1 the season in ,norfolk1 from which the ,scots come 7these being the principal oxen bred by the ,norfolk and ,suffolk graziers71 commences about ,christmas and terminates about ,june1 when this breed begins to fall off1 their place being taken by grass-fed oxen4 ,a large quantity of most excellent meat is sent to the dead markets from ,scotland1 and some of the best ,london butchers are supplied from this source4 ,,broiled ,,beef ,,and ,,mushroom ,,sauce4 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fab4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c dozen small button mushrooms1 #a oz4 of butter1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 mashed potatoes1 slices of cold roast beef4 ,mode4--,wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel1 and salt2 put them in a stewpan with the butter1 seasoning1 and ketchup2 stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done1 when pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes1 browned4 ,then place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef1 nicely broiled1 over a clear fire4 ,in making the mushroom sauce1 the ketchup may be dispensed with1 if there is sufficient gravy4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #h;d4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,broiled ,,beef ,,and ,,oyster ,,sauce 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fac4 ,,ingredients4--#b dozen oysters1 #c cloves1 #a blade of mace1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b teaspoonful of flour1 cayenne and salt to taste1 mashed potatoes1 a few slices of cold roast beef4 ,mode4--,put the oysters in a stewpan1 with their liquor strained2 add the cloves1 mace1 butter1 flour1 and seasoning1 and let them simmer gently for #e minutes4 ,have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of mashed potatoes1 browned2 into the middle pour the oyster sauce1 quite hot1 and round the potatoes place1 in layers1 slices of the beef1 which should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 #as1 #f;d41 exclusive of the cold meat4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,broiled ,,beef-,,bones4 #fad4 ,,ingredients4--,the bones of ribs or sirloin2 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne4 ,mode4--,separate the bones1 taking care that the meat on them is not too thick in any part2 sprinkle them well with the above seasoning1 and broil over a very clear fire4 ,when nicely browned they are done2 but do not allow them to blacken4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,bullock',s ,,heart4 #fae4 ,,ingredients4--#a heart1 stuffing of veal forcemeat1 ,no4 #dag4 ,mode4--,put the heart into warm water to soak for #b hours2 then wipe it well with a cloth1 and1 after cutting off the lobes1 stuff the inside with a highly-seasoned forcemeat 7,no4 #dag74 ,fasten it in1 by means of a needle and coarse thread2 tie the heart up in paper1 and set it before a good fire1 being very particular to keep it well basted1 or it will eat dry1 there being very little of its own fat4 ,two or three minutes before serving1 remove the paper1 baste well1 and serve with good gravy and red-currant jelly or melted butter4 ,if the heart is very large1 it will require #b hours1 and1 covered with a caul1 may be baked as well as roasted4 ,time4--,large heart1 #b hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,note4--,this is an excellent family dish1 is very savoury1 and1 though not seen at many good tables1 may be recommended for its cheapness and economy4 ,,bubble-,,and-,,squeak 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #faf4 ,,ingredients4--,a few thin slices of cold boiled beef2 butter1 cabbage1 #a sliced onion1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter1 taking care not to dry them up4 ,lay them on a flat dish1 and cover with fried greens4 ,the greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys4 ,they should be boiled till tender1 well drained1 minced1 and placed1 till quite hot1 in a frying-pan1 with butter1 a sliced onion1 and seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,when the onion is done1 it is ready to serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold beef1 #c;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,collared ,,beef4 ,,collared ,,beef4 #fag4 ,,ingredients4--#g lbs4 of the thin end of the flank of beef1 #b oz4 of coarse sugar1 #f oz4 of salt1 #a oz1 of saltpetre1 #a large handful of parsley minced1 #a dessertspoonful of minced sage1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded allspice2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,choose fine tender beef1 but not too fat2 lay it in a dish2 rub in the sugar1 salt1 and saltpetre1 and let it remain in the pickle for a week or ten days1 turning and rubbing it every day4 ,then bone it1 remove all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part1 and sprinkle it thickly with parsley1 herbs1 spice1 and seasoning in the above proportion1 taking care that the former are finely minced1 and the latter well pounded4 ,roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible1 in the same shape as shown in the engraving2 bind it firmly with broad tape1 and boil it gently for #f hours4 ,immediately on taking it out of the pot1 put it under a good weight1 without undoing it1 and let it remain until cold4 ,this dish is a very nice addition to the breakfast-table4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #ds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,during the time the beef is in pickle1 it should be kept cool1 and regularly rubbed and turned every day4 ,,beef-,,collops4 #fah4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of rump-steak1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a pint of gravy 7water may be substituted for this71 salt and pepper to taste1 #a shalot finely minced1 #a_/b pickled walnut1 #a teaspoonful of capers4 ,mode4--,have the steak cut thin1 and divide it in pieces about #c inches long2 beat these with the blade of a knife1 and dredge with flour4 ,put them in a frying-pan with the butter1 and let them fry for about #c minutes2 then lay them in a small stewpan1 and pour over them the gravy4 ,add a piece of butter1 kneaded with a little flour1 put in the seasoning and all the other ingredients1 and let the whole simmer1 but not boil1 for #aj minutes4 ,serve in a hot covered dish4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,minced ,,collops 7an ,entree74 #fai4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of rump-steak1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a onion minced1 #a_/d pint of water1 #a tablespoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 or lemon-juice1 or mushroom ketchup2 #a small bunch of savoury herbs4 ,mode4--,mince the beef and onion very small1 and fry the latter in butter until of a pale brown4 ,put all the ingredients together in a stewpan1 and boil gently for about #aj minutes2 garnish with sippets of toasted bread1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #b or #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,curried ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fbj4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled beef1 #c oz4 of butter1 #b onions1 #a wineglassful of beer1 #a dessertspoonful of curry powder4 ,mode4--,cut up the beef into pieces about #a inch square1 put the butter into a stewpan with the onions sliced1 and fry them of a lightly-brown colour4 ,add all the other ingredients1 and stir gently over a brisk fire for about #aj minutes4 ,should this be thought too dry1 more beer1 or a spoonful or two of gravy or water1 may be added2 but a good curry should not be very thin4 ,place it in a deep dish1 with an edging of dry boiled rice1 in the same manner as for other curries4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,beef ,,dripping4 ,i4 #fba4 ,good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything except game and poultry1 and1 when well clarified1 serves for frying nearly as well as lard2 it should be kept in a cool place1 and will remain good some time4 ,to clarify it1 put the dripping into a basin1 pour over it boiling water1 and keep stirring the whole to wash away the impurities4 ,let it stand to cool1 when the water and dirty sediment will settle at the bottom of the basin4 ,remove the dripping1 and put it away in jars or basins for use4 ,,another ,,way4 #fbb4 ,put the dripping into a clean saucepan1 and let it boil for a few minutes over a slow fire1 and be careful to skim it well4 ,let it stand to cool a little1 then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for use4 ,beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes1 as1 with mutton dripping1 there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell4 ,,roast ,,fillet ,,of ,,beef 7,larded74 #fbc4 ,,ingredients4--,about #d lbs4 of the inside fillet of the sirloin1 #a onion1 a small bunch of parsley1 salt and pepper to taste1 sufficient vinegar to cover the meat1 glaze1 ,spanish sauce1 ,no4 #daa4 ,mode4--,lard the beef with bacon1 and put it into a pan with sufficient vinegar to cover it1 with an onion sliced1 parsley1 and seasoning1 and let it remain in this pickle for #ab hours4 ,roast it before a nice clear fire for about #a-a_/d hour1 and1 when done1 glaze it4 ,pour some ,spanish sauce round the beef1 and the remainder serve in a tureen4 ,it may be garnished with ,spanish onions boiled and glazed4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the sauce1 #ds4 ,sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,beef4 #fbd4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c lbs4 of the inside fillet of the sirloin 7a piece of the rump may be substituted for this71 pepper and salt to taste1 #c cloves1 #b blades of mace1 #f whole allspice1 #a pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 or water1 #a glass of sherry1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b shalots1 bacon4 ,mode4--,cut some bacon into thin strips1 and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt1 mixed with cloves1 mace1 and allspice1 well pounded4 ,lard the beef with these1 put it into a stewpan with the stock or water1 sherry1 herbs1 shalots1 #b cloves1 and more pepper and salt4 ,stew the meat gently until tender1 when take it out1 cover it closely1 skim off all the fat from the gravy1 and strain it4 ,set it on the fire1 and boil1 till it becomes a glaze4 ,glaze the larded side of the beef with this1 and serve on sorrel sauce1 which is made as follows3--,wash and pick some sorrel1 and put it into a stewpan with only the water that hangs about it4 ,keep stirring1 to prevent its burning1 and when done1 lay it in a sieve to drain4 ,chop it1 and stew it with a small piece of butter and #d or #f tablespoonfuls of good gravy1 for an hour1 and rub it through a tammy4 ,if too acid1 add a little sugar2 and a little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an improvement4 ,time4--#b hours to gently stew the meat4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #ds4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fried ,,salt ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fbe4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold salt beef1 pepper to taste1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 mashed potatoes4 ,mode4--,cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices1 fry them gently in butter1 and season with a little pepper4 ,have ready some very hot mashed potatoes1 lay the slices of beef on them1 and garnish with #c or #d pickled gherkins4 ,cold salt beef1 warmed in a little liquor from mixed pickle1 drained1 and served as above1 will be found good4 ,time4--,about #e minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fried ,,rump-,,steak4 #fbf4 ,,ingredients4--,steaks1 butter or clarified dripping4 ,mode4 ,although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to frying them1 yet1 when the cook is not very expert1 the latter mode may be adopted2 and1 when properly done1 the dish may really look very inviting1 and the flavour be good4 ,the steaks should be cut rather thinner than for broiling1 and with a small quantity of fat to each4 ,put some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan2 let it get quite hot1 then lay in the steaks4 ,turn them frequently until done1 which will be in about #h minutes1 or rather more1 should the steaks be very thick4 ,serve on a very hot dish1 in which put a small piece of butter and a tablespoonful of ketchup1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,they should be sent to table quickly1 as1 when cold1 the steaks are entirely spoiled4 ,time4--#h minutes for a medium-sized steak1 rather longer for a very thick one4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not good in summer1 as the meat cannot hang to get tender4 ,note4--,where much gravy is liked1 make it in the following manner3--,as soon as the steaks are done1 dish them1 pour a little boiling water into the frying-pan1 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 a small piece of butter1 and a tablespoonful of ,harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup4 ,hold the pan over the fire for a minute or two1 just let the gravy simmer1 then pour on the steak1 and serve4 ,a ,,frenchman',s ,,opinion ,,of ,,beef4 ,the following is translated from a celebrated modern ,french work1 the production of one who in ,paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist3--,the flesh of the ox1 to be in the best condition1 should be taken from an animal of from four to six years old1 and neither too fat nor too lean4 ,this meat1 which possesses in the highest degree the most nutritive qualities1 is generally easily digested2 stock is made from it1 and it is eaten boiled1 broiled1 roasted1 stewed1 braised1 and in a hundred other different ways4 ,beef is the foundation of stock1 gravies1 braises1 c42 its nutritious and succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragots4 ,it is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist1 and is truly the king of the kitchen4 ,without it1 no soup1 no gravy2 and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized world6 ,,beef ,,fritters 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fbg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast beef1 pepper and salt to taste1 #c_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of water1 #b oz4 of butter1 the whites of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,mix very smoothly1 and by degrees1 the flour with the above proportion of water2 stir in #b oz4 of butter1 which must be melted1 but not oiled1 and1 just before it is to be used1 add the whites of two well-whisked eggs4 ,should the batter be too thick1 more water must be added4 ,pare down the cold beef into thin shreds1 season with pepper and salt1 and mix it with the batter4 ,drop a small quantity at a time into a pan of boiling lard1 and fry from #g to #aj minutes1 according to the size4 ,when done on one side1 turn and brown them on the other4 ,let them dry for a minute or two before the fire1 and serve on a folded napkin4 ,a small quantity of finely-minced onions1 mixed with the batter1 is an improvement4 ,time4--,from #g to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,hashed ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 ,i4 #fbh4 ,,ingredients4--,gravy saved from the meat1 #a teaspoonful of tomato sauce1 #a teaspoonful of ,harvey's sauce1 #a teaspoonful of good mushroom ketchup1 #a_/b glass of port wine or strong ale1 pepper and salt to taste1 a little flour to thicken1 #a onion finely minced1 a few slices of cold roast beef4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted2 let these simmer gently for #aj minutes1 then take the stewpan off the fire2 let the gravy cool1 and skim off the fat4 ,cut the beef into thin slices1 dredge them with flour1 and lay them in the gravy2 let the whole simmer gently for #e minutes1 but not boil1 or the meat will be tough and hard4 ,serve very hot1 and garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 #fbi4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of ribs or sirloin of beef1 #b onions1 #a carrot1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/b blade of pounded mace1 thickening of flour1 rather more than #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of beef2 remove the outside brown and gristle2 place the meat on one side1 and well stew the bones and pieces1 with the above ingredients1 for about #b hours1 till it becomes a strong gravy1 and is reduced to rather more than #a_/b pint2 strain this1 thicken with a teaspoonful of flour1 and let the gravy cool2 skim off all the fat2 lay in the meat1 let it get hot through1 but do not allow it to boil1 and garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,the gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #b;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed potatoes browned2 in which case the sippets should be omitted4 ,be careful that hashed meat does not boil1 or it will become tough4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,hung ,,beef4 #fcj4 ,this is preserved by salting and drying1 either with or without smoke4 ,hang up the beef #c or #d days1 till it becomes tender1 but take care it does not begin to spoil2 then salt it in the usual way1 either by dry-salting or by brine1 with bay-salt1 brown sugar1 saltpetre1 and a little pepper and allspice2 afterwards roll it tight in a cloth1 and hang it up in a warm1 but not hot place1 for a fortnight or more1 till it is sufficiently hard4 ,if required to have a little of the smoky flavour1 it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner1 or smoked in any other way3 it will keep a long time4 ,,hunter',s ,,beef4 #fca4 ,,ingredients4--,for a round of beef weighing #be lbs4 allow #c oz4 of saltpetre1 #c oz4 of coarse sugar1 #a oz4 of cloves1 #a grated nutmeg1 #a_/b oz4 of allspice1 #a lb4 of salt1 #a_/b lb4 bay-salt4 ,mode4--,let the beef hang for #b or #c days1 and remove the bone4 ,pound spices1 salt1 c4 in the above proportion1 and let them be reduced to the finest powder4 ,put the beef into a pan1 rub all the ingredients well into it1 and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight4 ,when it has been sufficiently long in pickle1 wash the meat1 bind it up securely with tape1 and put it into a pan with #a_/b pint of water at the bottom2 mince some suet1 cover the top of the meat with it1 and over the pan put a common crust of flour and water2 bake for #f hours1 and1 when cold1 remove the paste4 ,save the gravy that flows from it1 as it adds greatly to the flavour of hashes1 stews1 c4 ,the beef may be glazed and garnished with meat jelly4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,note4--,in salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption1 it not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time1 a less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat1 may be employed1 which could not be adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to be preserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country4 ,sugar1 which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great degree1 without the pungency and astringency of salt1 may be1 and is1 very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption4 ,although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat1 as is the case in the action of salt1 and1 therefore1 does not impair its mellowness1 yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect1 without the addition of other antiseptics1 would impart a flavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons4 ,it may be used1 however1 together with salt1 with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured meat1 in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture2 and1 perhaps1 now that sugar is so much lower in price than it was in former years1 one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed4 ,,to ,,dress ,,beef ,,kidney4 ,i4 #fcb4 ,,ingredients4--#a kidney1 clarified butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,cut the kidneys into neat slices1 put them into warm water to soak for #b hours1 and change the water #b or #c times2 then put them on a clean cloth to dry the water from them1 and lay them in a frying-pan with some clarified butter1 and fry them of a nice brown2 season each side with pepper and salt1 put them round the dish1 and the gravy in the middle4 ,before pouring the gravy in the dish1 add the lemon-juice and sugar4 ,time4--,from #e to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 #fcc4 ,,ingredients4--#a kidney1 #a dessertspoonful of minced parsley1 #a teaspoonful of minced shalot1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a_/d pint of gravy1 ,no4 #dch1 #c tablespoonfuls of sherry4 ,mode4--,take off a little of the kidney fat1 mince it very fine1 and put it in a frying-pan2 slice the kidney1 sprinkle over it parsley and shalots in the above proportion1 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and fry it of a nice brown4 ,when it is done enough1 dredge over a little flour1 and pour in the gravy and sherry4 ,let it just simmer1 but not boil any more1 or the kidney would harden2 serve very hot1 and garnish with crotons4 ,where the flavour of the shalot is disliked1 it may be omitted1 and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it4 ,time4--,from #e to #aj minutes1 according to the thickness of the slices4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,iii4 ,a more ,simple ,method4 #fcd4 ,cut the kidney into thin slices1 flour them1 and fry of a nice brown4 ,when done1 make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat1 putting in a small piece of butter1 #a_/d pint of boiling water1 pepper and salt1 and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,let the gravy just boil up1 pour over the kidney1 and serve4 ,,boiled ,,marrow-,,bones4 #fce4 ,,ingredients4--,bones1 a small piece of common paste1 a floured cloth4 ,mode4--,have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes1 and cover the ends with a small piece of common crust1 made with flour and water4 ,over this tie a floured cloth1 and place them upright in a saucepan of boiling water1 taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones4 ,boil them for #b hours1 remove the cloth and paste1 and serve them upright on a napkin with dry toast4 ,many persons clear the marrow from the bones after they are cooked1 spread it over a slice of toast and add a seasoning of pepper2 when served in this manner1 it must be very expeditiously sent to table1 as it so soon gets cold4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the preceding recipe2 they should be laid in a deep dish1 and baked for #b hours4 ,illustration3 ,,marrow-,,bones4 ,,marrow-,,bones4--,bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of membranous matter1 made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts2 of which1 phosphate of lime is the most abundant4 ,in a large bone1 the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such a manner as to leave a cavity1 into which a fatty substance1 distinguished by the name of marrow1 is thrown4 ,hollow cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness in a remarkable degree4 ,if bones were entirely solid1 they would be unnecessarily heavy2 and if their materials were brought into smaller compass1 they would be weaker1 because the strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its fibres are from the centre4 ,some animals1 it must1 however1 be observed1 have no cavities in the centre of their bones2 such as the whale tribe1 skate1 and turtles4 ,,minced ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fcf4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of butter1 #a small onion1 #b tablespoonfuls of gravy left from the meat1 #a tablespoonful of strong ale1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of flour1 salt and pepper to taste1 a few slices of lean roast beef4 ,mode4--,put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine2 add the gravy1 ale1 and #a_/b a teaspoonful of flour to thicken2 season with pepper and salt1 and stir these ingredients over the fire until the onion is a rich brown4 ,cut1 but do not chop the meat very fine1 add it to the gravy1 stir till quite hot1 and serve4 ,garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the meat is added1 as it would render it hard and tough4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #c;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,miroton ,,of ,,beef4 #fcg4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold roast beef1 #c oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #c onions1 #a_/b pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the cold beef and butter2 place it over the fire1 and keep turning and stirring the ingredients to prevent them burning4 ,when of a pale brown1 add the gravy and seasoning2 let it simmer for a few minutes1 and serve very hot4 ,this dish is excellent and economical4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,stewed ,,ox-,,cheek4 #fch4 ,,ingredients4--#a cheek1 salt and water1 #d or #e onions1 butter and flour1 #f cloves1 #c turnips1 #b carrots1 #a bay-leaf1 #a head of celery1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 cayenne1 black pepper and salt to taste1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b dessertspoonfuls of flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of ,chili vinegar1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 #b tablespoonfuls of port wine1 #b tablespoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce4 ,mode4--,have the cheek boned1 and prepare it the day before it is to be eaten1 by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water4 ,the next day1 wipe it dry and clean1 and put it into a stewpan4 ,just cover it with water1 skim well when it boils1 and let it gently simmer till the meat is quite tender4 ,slice and fry #c onions in a little butter and flour1 and put them into the gravy2 add #b whole onions1 each stuck with #c cloves1 #c turnips quartered1 #b carrots sliced1 a bay-leaf1 #a head of celery1 a bunch of herbs1 and seasoning to taste of cayenne1 black pepper1 and salt4 ,let these stew till perfectly tender2 then take out the cheek1 divide into pieces fit to help at table1 skim and strain the gravy1 and thicken #a-a_/b pint of it with butter and flour in the above proportions4 ,add the vinegar1 ketchup1 and port wine2 put in the pieces of cheek2 let the whole boil up1 and serve quite hot4 ,send it to table in a ragout-dish4 ,if the colour of the gravy should not be very good1 add a tablespoonful of the browning1 ,no4 #ajh4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fried ,,ox-,,feet1 or ,,cow-,,heel4 #fci4 ,,ingredients4--,ox-feet1 the yolk of #a egg1 bread crumbs1 parsley1 salt and cayenne to taste1 boiling butter4 ,mode4--,wash1 scald1 and thoroughly clean the feet1 and cut them into pieces about #b inches long2 have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley1 cayenne1 and salt2 dip the pieces of heel into the yolk of egg1 sprinkle them with the bread crumbs1 and fry them until of a nice brown in boiling butter4 ,time4-#a hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,ox-feet may be dressed in various ways1 stowed in gravy or plainly boiled and served with melted butter4 ,when plainly boiled1 the liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies1 and also to give richness to soups or gravies4 ,,stewed ,,ox-,,tails4 #fdj4 ,,ingredients4--#b ox-tails1 #a onion1 #c cloves1 #a blade of mace1 #a teaspoonful of whole black pepper1 #a teaspoonful of allspice1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of salt1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,divide the tails at the joints1 wash1 and put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them1 and set them on the fire2 when the water boils1 remove the scum1 and add the onion cut into rings1 the spice1 seasoning1 and herbs4 ,cover the stewpan closely1 and let the tails simmer very gently until tender1 which will be in about #b-a_/b hours4 ,take them out1 make a thickening of butter and flour1 add it to the gravy1 and let it boil for #a_/d hour4 ,strain it through a sieve into a saucepan1 put back the tails1 add the lemon-juice and ketchup2 let the whole just boil up1 and serve4 ,garnish with crotons or sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours to stew the tails4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 to #as4 #f;d41 according to the season4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,the ,,tails ,,of ,,animals4--,in the class ,mammalia1 the vertebral column or backbone presents only slight modifications1 and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man1 who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom4 ,the length of this column1 however1 varies much1 and the number of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform4 ,these numerical differences principally depend on the unequal development of the caudal portion1 or tail-end1 of the column4 ,thus1 the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all1--amongst certain bats for example2 in other instances we reckon forty1 fifty1 and even upwards of sixty of these bones4 ,among the greater number of mammals1 the tail is of little use for locomotion1 except that it acts in many cases as does the rudder of a ship1 steadying the animal in his rapid movements1 and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly4 ,among some animals1 it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression4 ,thus1 in the kangaroos and jerboas1 the tail forms1 with the hind feet1 a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring4 ,with most of the ,american monkeys it is prehensile1 and serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees2 and1 lastly1 among the whales1 it grows to an enormous size1 and becomes the principal instrument for swimming4 ,a ,,pickle ,,for ,,tongues ,,or ,,beef 7,newmarket ,recipe74 #fda4 ,,ingredients4--#a gallon of soft water1 #c lbs4 of coarse salt1 #f oz4 of coarse brown sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of saltpetre4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a saucepan1 and let them boil for #a_/b hour1 clear off the scum as it rises1 and when done pour the pickle into a pickling-pan4 ,let it get cold1 then put in the meat1 and allow it to remain in the pickle from #h to #ad days1 according to the size4 ,it will keep good for #f months if well boiled once a fortnight4 ,tongues will take #a month or #f weeks to be properly cured2 and1 in salting meat1 beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels4 ,time4--,a moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a month1 and be turned every day4 ,illustration3 ,,potting-,,jar4 ,,potted ,,beef4 ,i4 #fdb4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of lean beef1 #a tablespoonful of water1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 a seasoning to taste of salt1 cayenne1 pounded mace1 and black pepper4 ,mode4--,procure a nice piece of lean beef1 as free as possible from gristle1 skin1 c41 and put it into a jar 7if at hand1 one with a lid7 with #a tablespoonful of water4 ,cover it closely1 and put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water1 letting the water come within #b inches of the top of the jar4 ,boil gently for #c-a_/b hours1 then take the beef1 chop it very small with a chopping-knife1 and pound it thoroughly in a mortar4 ,mix with it by degrees all1 or a portion1 of the gravy that will have run from it1 and a little clarified butter2 add the seasoning1 put it in small pots for use1 and cover with a little butter just warmed and poured over4 ,if much gravy is added to it1 it will keep but a short time2 on the contrary1 if a large proportion of butter is used1 it may be preserved for some time4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,potted ,,beef 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 ,,ii4 #fdc4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled beef1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 cayenne to taste1 #b blades of pounded mace4 ,mode4--,as we have stated in recipe ,no4 #fjh1 the outside slices of boiled beef may1 with a little trouble1 be converted into a very nice addition to the breakfast-table4 ,cut up the meat into small pieces and pound it well1 with a little butter1 in a mortar2 add a seasoning of cayenne and mace1 and be very particular that the latter ingredient is reduced to the finest powder4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 put it into glass or earthen potting-pots1 and pour on the top a coating of clarified butter4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,if cold roast beef is used1 remove all pieces of gristle and dry outside pieces1 as these do not pound well4 ,,preserved ,,meats4--,when an organic substance1 like the flesh of animals1 is heated to the boiling-point1 it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation and decay4 ,fresh animal milk1 as is well known1 coagulates1 after having been kept for two or three days1 into a gelatinous mass2 but it may be preserved for an indefinite period1 as a perfectly sweet liquid1 if it be heated daily to the boiling-point4 ,the knowledge of this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of industry1--namely1 the preparation of preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service4 ,at ,leith1 in the neighbourhood of ,edinburgh1 at ,aberdeen1 at ,bordeaux1 at ,marseilles1 and in many parts of ,germany1 establishments of enormous magnitude exist1 in which soup1 vegetables1 and viands of every description are prepared1 in such a manner that they retain their freshness for years4 ,the prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron plate1 the covers are soldered air-tight1 and the canisters exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four hours4 ,the aliments thus acquire a stability1 which one may almost say is eternal2 and when a canister is opened1 after the lapse of several years1 its contents are found to be unaltered in taste1 colour1 and smell4 ,we are indebted to the ,french philosopher ,gay-,lussac for this beautiful practical application of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation4 ,an exclusive salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health2 and1 in former times1 thousands of mariners lost their lives for the want of fresh aliments during long voyages4 ,we are sorry to say that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared1 and1 though the statement seems incredible1 sometimes adulterated4 ,dr4 ,lankester1 who has done so much to expose the frauds of trade1 that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor1 says that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food1 shipped as preserved meats4 ,surely1 as he observes1 there ought to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of food that are taken on board ship1 so that the poor men who have been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being starved or poisoned on their way home4 ,,rib ,,of ,,beef ,,bones4 7,a ,pretty ,dish47 #fdd4 ,,ingredients4--,rib of beef bones1 #a onion chopped fine1 a few slices of carrot and turnip1 #a_/d pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,the bones for this dish should have left on them a slight covering of meat2 saw them into pieces #c inches long2 season them with pepper and salt1 and put them into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients4 ,stew gently1 until the vegetables are tender1 and serve on a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the bones1 #b;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef ,,rissoles 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fde4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast beef2 to each pound of meat allow #c_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 a few chopped savoury herbs1 #a_/b a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a or #b eggs1 according to the quantity of meat4 ,mode4--,mince the beef very fine1 which should be rather lean1 and mix with this bread crumbs1 herbs1 seasoning1 and lemon-peel1 in the above proportion1 to each pound of meat4 ,make all into a thick paste with #a or #b eggs2 divide into balls or cones1 and fry a rich brown4 ,garnish the dish with fried parsley1 and send with them to table some good brown gravy in a tureen4 ,instead of garnishing with fried parsley1 gravy may be poured in the dish1 round the rissoles3 in this case1 it will not be necessary to send any in a tureen4 ,time4--,from #e to #aj minutes1 according to size4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #e;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rolled ,,beef1 to eat like ,hare4 #fdf4 ,,ingredients4--,about #e lbs4 of the inside of the sirloin1 #b glasses of port wine1 #b glasses of vinegar1 a small quantity of forcemeat 7,no4 #dag71 #a teaspoonful of pounded allspice4 ,mode4--,take the inside of a large sirloin1 soak it in #a glass of port wine and #a glass of vinegar1 mixed1 and let it remain for #b days4 ,make a forcemeat by recipe ,no4 #dag1 lay it on the meat1 and bind it up securely4 ,roast it before a nice clear fire1 and baste it with #a glass each of port wine and vinegar1 with which mix a teaspoonful of pounded allspice4 ,serve1 with a good gravy in the dish1 and send red-currant jelly to table with it4 ,time4--,a piece of #e lbs4 about #a-a_/b hour before a brisk fire4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #es4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef ,,rolls 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fdg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled beef1 seasoning to taste of salt1 pepper1 and minced herbs2 puff paste4 ,mode4--,mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own fat2 add a seasoning of pepper1 salt1 and chopped herbs2 put the whole into a roll of puff paste1 and bake for #a_/b hour1 or rather longer1 should the roll be very large4 ,beef patties may be made of cold meat1 by mincing and seasoning beef as directed above1 and baking in a rich puff paste in patty-tins4 ,time1--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,miniature ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 7,an ,excellent ,dish for a ,small ,family47 #fdh4 ,,ingredients4--,from #e to #aj lbs4 of rib of beef1 sufficient brine to cover the meat4 ,mode4--,choose a fine rib1 have the bone removed1 rub some salt over the inside1 and skewer the meat up into a nice round form1 and bind it with tape4 ,put it into sufficient brine to cover it 7the brine should be made by recipe ,no4 #fed71 and let it remain for #f days1 turning the meat every day4 ,when required to be dressed1 drain from the pickle1 and put the meat into very hot water2 let it boil rapidly for a few minutes1 when draw the pot to the side of the fire1 and let it simmer very gently until done4 ,remove the skewer1 and replace it by a plated or silver one4 ,carrots and turnips should be served with this dish1 and may be boiled with the meat4 ,time4--,a small round of #h lbs41 about #b hours after the water boils2 one of #ab lbs41 about #c hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,should the joint be very small1 #d or #e days will be sufficient time to salt it4 ,,brisket ,,of ,,beef1 a la ,flamande4 #fdi4 ,,ingredients4--,about #f or #h lbs4 of the brisket of beef1 #d or #e slices of bacon1 #b carrots1 #a onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 #d cloves1 #d whole allspice1 #b blades of mace4 ,mode4--,choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle1 trim it1 and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon1 which should be put under and over the meat4 ,add the vegetables1 herbs1 spices1 and seasoning1 and cover with a little weak stock or water2 close the stewpan as hermetically as possible1 and simmer very gently for #d hours4 ,strain the liquor1 reserve a portion of it for sauce1 and the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze1 with which glaze the meat4 ,garnish the dish with scooped carrots and turnips1 and when liked1 a little cabbage2 all of which must be cooked separately4 ,thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce1 pour it round the meat1 and serve4 ,the beef may also be garnished with glazed onions1 artichoke-bottoms1 c4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,french ,,beef4--,it has been all but universally admitted1 that the beef of ,france is greatly inferior in quality to that of ,england1 owing to inferiority of pasturage4 ,m4 ,curmer1 however1 one of the latest writers on the culinary art1 tells us that this is a vulgar error1 and that ,french beef is far superior to that of ,england4 ,this is mere vaunting on the part of our neighbours1 who seem to want la gloire in everything2 and we should not deign to notice it1 if it had occurred in a work of small pretensions2 but ,m4 ,curmer's book professes to be a complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery1 and holds a high rank in the didactic literature of ,france4 ,we half suspect that ,m4 ,curmer obtained his knowledge of ,english beef in the same way as did the poor ,frenchman1 whom the late ,mr4 ,mathews1 the comedian1 so humorously described4 ,mr4 ,lewis1 in his ,physiology of ,common ,life1 has thus revived the story of the beef-eating son of ,france3--,a ,frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by ,englishmen for the beef of ,france1 which he1 for his part1 did not find so inferior to that of ,england4 ',i have been two times in ,england1' he remarked1 but ,i nevre find the bif so suprieur to ours4 ,i find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on leetle pieces of stick1 for one penny3 but ,i do not find the bif suprieur4' ,on hearing this1 the ,englishman1 red with astonishment1 exclaimed1 ',good heavens1 sir6 you have been eating cat's meat4' ,no1 ,m4 ,curmer1 we are ready to acknowledge the superiority of your cookery1 but we have long since made up our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material4 ,,beef ,,olives4 ,i4 #fej4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of rump-steak1 #a egg1 #a tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a pint of stock1 ,no4 #aje1 #b or #c slices of bacon1 #b tablespoonfuls of any store sauce1 a slight thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,have the steaks cut rather thin1 slightly beat them to make them level1 cut them into #f or #g pieces1 brush over with egg1 and sprinkle with herbs1 which should be very finely minced2 season with pepper and salt1 and roll up the pieces tightly1 and fasten with a small skewer4 ,put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them1 for by being pressed together1 they will keep their shape better2 lay in the rolls of meat1 cover them with the bacon1 cut in thin slices1 and over that put a piece of paper4 ,stew them very gently for full #b hours2 for the slower they are done the better4 ,take them out1 remove the skewers1 thicken the gravy with butter and flour1 and flavour with any store sauce that may be preferred4 ,give one boil1 pour over the meat1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per pound4 ,sufficient for #d or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 7,economical47 #fea4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of underdone cold roast beef1 bread crumbs1 #a shalot finely minced1 pepper and salt to taste1 gravy made from the beef bones1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch thick2 sprinkle over them some bread crumbs1 minced shalot1 and a little of the fat and seasoning2 roll them1 and fasten with a small skewer4 ,have ready some gravy made from the beef bones2 put in the pieces of meat1 and stew them till tender1 which will be in about #a-a_/d hour1 or rather longer4 ,arrange the meat in a dish1 thicken and flavour the gravy1 and pour it over the meat1 when it is ready to serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the beef1 #b;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,broiled ,,ox-,,tail 7an ,entree74 #feb4 ,,ingredients4--#b tails1 #a-a_/b pint of stock1 ,no4 #aje1 salt and cayenne to taste1 bread crumbs1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces1 and put them into a stewpan1 with the stock1 cayenne1 and salt1 and1 if liked very savoury1 a bunch of sweet herbs4 ,let them simmer gently for about #b-a_/b hours2 then take them out1 drain them1 and let them cool4 ,beat an egg upon a plate2 dip in each piece of tail1 and1 afterwards1 throw them into a dish of bread crumbs2 broil them over a clear fire1 until of a brownish colour on both sides1 and serve with a good gravy1 or any sauce that may be preferred4 ,time4--,about #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 from #i;d4 to #as4 #f;d41 according to the season4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,these may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in a brisk oven1 after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb2 and1 when brown1 they are done4 ,they must be boiled the same time as for broiling4 ,,strange ,,tails4--,naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of the strange tails borne by animals4 ,in the ,egyptian and ,syrian sheep1 for instance1 the tail grows so large1 that it is not infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart1 in order to prevent inconvenience to the animal4 ,thin monstrous appendage sometimes attains a weight of seventy1 eighty1 or even a hundred pounds4 ,,to ,,dress ,,beef ,,palates 7an ,entree74 #fec4 ,,ingredients4--#d palates1 sufficient gravy to cover them 7,no4 #dch71 cayenne to taste1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of pickled-onion liquor1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,wash the palates1 and put them into a stewpan1 with sufficient water to cover them1 and let them boil until perfectly tender1 or until the upper skin may be easily peeled off4 ,have ready sufficient gravy 7,no4 #dch7 to cover them2 add a good seasoning of cayenne1 and thicken with roux1 ,no4 #fbe1 or a little butter kneaded with flour2 let it boil up1 and skim4 ,cut the palates into square pieces1 put them in the gravy1 and let them simmer gently for #a_/b hour2 add ketchup and onion-liquor1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--,from #c to #e hours to boil the palates4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tourne1 good onion sauce1 tomato sauce1 and also served in a vol-au-vent2 but the above will be found a more simple method of dressing them4 ,,beef ,,pickle1 which may also be used for any kind of ,meat1 ,tongues1 or ,hams4 #fed4 ,,ingredients4--#f lbs4 of salt1 #b lbs4 of fine sugar1 #c oz4 of powdered saltpetre1 #c gallons of spring water4 ,mode4--,boil all the ingredients gently together1 so long as any scum or impurity arises1 which carefully remove2 when quite cold1 pour it over the meat1 every part of which must be covered with the brine4 ,this may be used for pickling any kind of meat1 and may be kept for some time1 if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the ingredients4 ,time4--,a ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight2 a piece of beef weighing #ad lbs41 #ab or #ae days2 a tongue1 #aj days or a fortnight4 ,note4--,for salting and pickling meat1 it is a good plan to rub in only half the quantity of salt directed1 and to let it remain for a day or two to disgorge and effectually to get rid of the blood and slime2 then rub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients1 and proceed as above4 ,this rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given for salting and pickling meat4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,part ,,of ,a ,,round ,,of ,,beef ,,for ,,hanging4 #fee4 ,,ingredients4--,for #ad lbs4 of a round of beef allow #a-a_/b lb4 of salt1 #a_/b oz4 of powdered saltpetre2 or1 #a lb4 of salt1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #d oz4 of powdered saltpetre4 ,mode4--,rub in1 and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on #ad lbs4 of meat4 ,keep it in an earthenware pan1 or a deep wooden tray1 and turn twice a week during #c weeks2 then bind up the beef tightly with coarse linen tape1 and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept1 for #c weeks4 ,pork1 hams1 and bacon may be cured in a similar way1 but will require double the quantity of the salting mixture2 and1 if not smoke-dried1 they should be taken down from hanging after #c or #d weeks1 and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs1 amongst dry oat-husks4 ,time4--#b or #c weeks to remain in the brine2 to be hung #c weeks4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle1 instead of smoking it4 ,,beep ,,ragout 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #fef4 ,,ingredients4--,about #b lbs4 of cold roast beef1 #f onions1 pepper1 salt1 and mixed spices to taste2 #a_/b pint of boiling water1 #c tablespoonfuls of gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into rather large pieces1 and put them into a stewpan with the onions1 which must be sliced4 ,season well with pepper1 salt1 and mixed spices1 and pour over about #a_/b pint of boiling water1 and gravy in the above proportion 7gravy saved from the meat answers the purpose72 let the whole stew very gently for about #b hours1 and serve with pickled walnuts1 gherkins1 or capers1 just warmed in the gravy4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,roast ,,ribs ,,of ,,beef4 #feg4 ,,ingredients4--,beef1 a little salt4 ,mode4---,the fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece1 but the middle-rib is considered the most economical4 ,let the meat be well hung 7should the weather permit71 and cut off the thin ends of the bones1 which should be salted for a few days1 and then boiled4 ,put the meat down to a nice clear fire1 put some clean dripping into the pan1 dredge the joint with a little flour1 and keep continually basting the whole time4 ,sprinkle some fine salt over it 7this must never be done until the joint is dished1 as it draws the juices from the meat72 pour the dripping from the pan1 put in a little boiling3 water slightly salted1 and strain the gravy over the meat4 ,garnish with tufts of scraped horseradish1 and send horseradish sauce to table with it 7see ,no4 #ddg74 ,a ,yorkshire pudding 7see ,puddings7 sometimes accompanies this dish1 and1 if lightly made and well cooked1 will be found a very agreeable addition4 ,time4--#aj lbs4 of beef1 #b-a_/b hours2 #ad to #af lbs41 from #c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a joint of #aj lbs4 sufficient for #h or #i persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,memoranda ,,in ,,roasting4--,the management of the fire is a point of primary importance in roasting4 ,a radiant fire throughout the operation is absolutely necessary to insure a good result4 ,when the article to be dressed is thin and delicate1 the fire may be small2 but when the joint is large1 the fire must fill the grate4 ,meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted fire1 which may soon want recruiting2 on the other hand1 if the heat of the fire becomes too fierce1 the meat must be removed to a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated4 ,some cooks always fail in their roasts1 though they succeed in nearly everything else4 ,a ,french writer on the culinary art says that anybody can learn how to cook1 but one must be born a roaster4 ,according to ,liebig1 beef or mutton cannot be said to be sufficiently roasted until it has acquired1 throughout the whole mass1 a temperature of #aeh2 but poultry may be well cooked when the inner parts have attained a temperature of from #acj to #adj4 ,this depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and mutton contain1 the colouring matter of blood not being coagulable under #aeh4 ,,roast ,,ribs ,,of ,,beef1 ,boned and ,rolled 7a very ,convenient ,joint for a ,small ,family74 #feh4 ,,ingredients4--#a or #b ribs of beef4 ,mode4--,choose a fine rib of beef1 and have it cut according to the weight you require1 either wide or narrow4 ,bone and roll the meat round1 secure it with wooden skewers1 and1 if necessary1 bind it round with a piece of tape4 ,spit the beef firmly1 or1 if a bottle-jack is used1 put the joint on the hook1 and place it near a nice clear fire4 ,let it remain so till the outside of the meat is set1 when draw it to a distance1 and keep continually basting until the meat is done1 which can be ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire4 ,as this joint is solid1 rather more than #a_/d hour must be allowed for each lb4 ,remove the skewers1 put in a plated or silver one1 and send the joint to table with gravy in the dish1 and garnish with tufts of horseradish4 ,horseradish sauce1 ,no4 #ddg1 is a great improvement to roast beef4 ,time4--,for #aj lbs4 of the rolled ribs1 #c hours 7as the joint is very solid1 we have allowed an extra #a_/b hour72 for #f lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a joint of #aj lbs4 for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,note4--,when the weight exceeds #aj lbs41 we would not advise the above method of boning and rolling2 only in the case of #a or #b ribs1 when the joint cannot stand upright in the dish1 and would look awkward4 ,the bones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs1 and made into stock4 ,,roast ,,beef has long been a national dish in ,england4 ,in most of our patriotic songs it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs1 popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet of ,frenchmen4 ,o the roast beef of old ,england1 ,and ,o the old ,english roast beef4 ,this national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer wishes to account for the valour displayed by ,englishmen at sea or on land4 ,,roast ,,sirloin ,,of ,,beef4 #fei4 ,,ingredients4--,beef1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,as a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire1 see that it is well made up about #c_/d hour before it is required1 so that when the joint is put down1 it is clear and bright4 ,choose a nice sirloin1 the weight of which should not exceed #af lbs41 as the outside would be too much done1 whilst the inside would not be done enough4 ,spit it or hook it on to the jack firmly1 dredge it slightly with flour1 and place it near the fire at first1 as directed in the preceding recipe4 ,then draw it to a distance1 and keep continually basting until the meat is done4 ,sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it1 empty the dripping-pan of all the dripping1 pour in some boiling water slightly salted1 stir it about1 and strain over the meat4 ,garnish with tufts of horseradish1 and send horseradish sauce and ,yorkshire pudding to table with it4 ,for carving1 see p4 #cag4 ,time4--,a sirloin of #aj lbs41 #b-a_/b hours2 #ad to #af lbs41 about #d or #d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a joint of #aj lbs4 for #h or #i persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,the rump1 round1 and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same manner1 allowing for solid joints2 #a_/d hour to every lb4 ,note4---,the above is the usual method of roasting moat2 but to have it in perfection and the juices kept in1 the meat should at first be laid close to the fire1 and when the outside is set and firm1 drawn away to a good distance1 and then left to roast very slowly2 where economy is studied1 this plan would not answer1 as the meat requires to be at the fire double the time of the ordinary way of cooking2 consequently1 double the quantity of fuel would be consumed4 ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,word ,,sirloin4--,the loin of beef is said to have been knighted by ,king ,charles ,,ii41 at ,friday ,hall1 ,chingford4 ,the ,merry ,monarch returned to this hospitable mansion for ,epping ,forest literally as hungry as a hunter1 and beheld1 with delight1 a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table4 ,a noble joint6 exclaimed the king4 ,by ,st4 ,george1 it shall have a title6 ,then drawing his sword1 he raised it above the meat1 and cried1 with mock dignity1 ,loin1 we dub thee knight2 henceforward be ,sir ,loin6 ,this anecdote is doubtless apocryphal1 although the oak table upon which the joint was supposed to have received its knighthood1 might have been seen by any one who visited ,friday-,hill ,house1 a few years ago4 ,it is1 perhaps1 a pity to spoil so noble a story2 but the interests of truth demand that we declare that sirloin is probably a corruption of surloin1 which signifies the upper part of a loin1 the prefix sur being equivalent to over or above4 ,in ,french we find this joint called surlonge1 which so closely resembles our sirloin1 that we may safely refer the two words to a common origin4 ,,to ,,salt ,,beef4 #ffj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b round of beef1 #d oz4 of sugar1 #a oz4 of powdered saltpetre1 #b oz4 of black pepper1 #a_/d lb4 of bay-salt1 #a_/b lb4 of common salt4 ,mode4--,rub the meat well with salt1 and let it remain for a day1 to disgorge and clear it from slime4 ,the next day1 rub it well with the above ingredients on every side1 and let it remain in the pickle for about a fortnight1 turning it every day4 ,it may be boiled fresh from the pickle1 or smoked4 ,time4--#a_/b round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the aitch-bone1 flank1 or brisket may be salted and pickled by any of the recipes we have given for salting beef1 allowing less time for small joints to remain in the pickle2 for instance1 a joint of #h or #i lbs4 will be sufficiently salt in about a week4 ,,the ,,dutch ,,way ,,to ,,salt ,,beef4 #ffa4 ,,ingredients4--#aj lbs4 of lean beef1 #a lb4 of treacle1 #a oz4 of saltpetre1 #a lb4 of common salt4 ,mode4--,rub the beef well with the treacle1 and let it remain for #c days1 turning and rubbing it often2 then wipe it1 pound the salt and saltpetre very fine1 rub these well in1 and turn it every day for #aj days4 ,roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth1 and press it under a large weight2 have it smoked1 and turn it upside down every day4 ,boil it1 and1 on taking it out of the pot1 put a heavy weight on it to press it4 ,time4--#ag days4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef ,,sausages4 #ffb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of suet allow #b lbs4 of lean beef2 seasoning to taste of salt1 pepper1 and mixed spices4 ,mode4--,clear the suet from skin1 and chop that and the beef as finely as possible2 season with pepper1 salt1 and spices1 and mix the whole well together4 ,make it into flat cakes1 and fry of a nice brown4 ,many persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped 7 but this is not necessary when the meat is minced finely47 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,beef-,,steak1 ,rolled1 ,roasted1 and ,stuffed4 #ffc4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of rump-steak1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 pepper and salt to taste1 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump of beef1 and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,make a forcemeat by recipe ,no4 #dag2 spread it over half of the steak2 roll it up1 bind and skewer it firmly1 that the forcemeat may not escape1 and roast it before a nice clear fire for about #a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer1 should the roll be very large and thick4 ,keep it constantly basted with butter1 and serve with brown gravy1 some of which must be poured round the steak1 and the remainder sent to table in a tureen4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but best in winter4 ,,sliced ,,and ,,broiled ,,beef--a ,pretty ,dish 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ffd4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold roast beef1 #d or #e potatoes1 a thin batter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple2 fry the parings in a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper1 until they are of a light brown colour1 and place them on a dish over some slices of beef1 which should be nicely seasoned and broiled4 ,time4--#e minutes to broil the meat4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,spiced ,,beef 7to ,serve ,cold74 #ffe4 ,,ingredients4--#ad lbs4 of the thick flank or rump of beef1 #a_/b lb4 of coarse sugar1 #a oz4 of saltpetre1 #a_/d lb4 of pounded allspice1 #a lb4 of common salt4 ,mode4--,rub the sugar well into the beef1 and let it lay for #ab hours2 then rub the saltpetre and allspice1 both of which should be pounded1 over the meat1 and let it remain for another #ab hours2 then rub in the salt4 ,turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight1 soak it for a few hours in water1 dry with a cloth1 cover with a coarse paste1 put a little water at the bottom of the pan1 and bake in a moderate oven for #d hours4 ,if it is not covered with a paste1 be careful to put the beef into a deep vessel1 and cover with a plate1 or it will be too crisp4 ,during the time the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or twice4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baking ,,meat4--,baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat1 rendering it less savoury and less agreeable than meat which has been roasted4 ,those who have travelled in ,germany and ,france1 writes ,mr4 ,lewis1 one of our most popular scientific authors1 must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in the flavour1 or want of flavour1 of the various 'roasts' served up at the table-d'hte4 ,the general explanation is1 that the ,german and ,french meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of ,england and ,holland1 owing to the inferiority of pasturage2 and doubtless this is one cause1 but it is not the chief cause4 ,the meat is inferior1 but the cooking is mainly at fault4 ,the meat is scarcely ever roasted1 because there is no coal1 and firewood is expensive4 ,the meat is therefore baked2 and the consequence of this baking is1 that no meat is eatable or eaten1 with its own gravy1 but is always accompanied by some sauce more or less piquant4 ,the ,germans generally believe that in ,england we eat our beef and mutton almost raw2 they shudder at our gravy1 as if it were so much blood4 ,,stewed ,,beef or ,,rump ,,steak 7an ,entree74 #fff4 ,,ingredients4--,about #b lbs4 of beef or rump steak1 #c onions1 #b turnips1 #c carrots1 #b or #c oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b do4 of pepper1 #a tablespoonful of ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,mode4--,have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean2 divide them into convenient-sized pieces1 and fry them in the butter a nice brown on both sides4 ,cleanse and pare the vegetables1 cut the onions and carrots into thin slices1 and the turnips into dice1 and fry these in the same fat that the steaks were done in4 ,put all into a saucepan1 add #a_/b pint of water1 or rather more should it be necessary1 and simmer very gently for #b-a_/b or #c hours2 when nearly done1 skim well1 add salt1 pepper1 and ketchup in the above proportions1 and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour mixed with #b of cold water4 ,let it boil up for a minute or two after the thickening is added1 and serve4 ,when a vegetable-scoop is at hand1 use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful shapes1 and tomato1 ,harvey's sauce1 or walnut-liquor may be used to flavour the gravy4 ,it is less rich if stewed the previous day1 so that the fat may be taken off when cold2 when wanted for table1 it will merely require warming through4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,stewed ,,beef ,,and ,,celery ,,sauce 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ffg4 ,,ingredients4--#c roots of celery1 #a pint of gravy1 ,no4 #dcf1 #b onions sliced1 #b lbs4 of cold roast or boiled beef4 ,mode4--,cut the celery into #b-;inch pieces1 put them in a stew-pan1 with the gravy and onions1 simmer gently until the celery is tender1 when add the beef cut into rather thick pieces2 stew gently for #aj minutes1 and serve with fried potatoes4 ,time4--,from #bj to #be minutes to stew the celery4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,,stewed ,,beef ,,with ,,oysters 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ffh4 ,,ingredients4--,a few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a onion sliced1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/b glass of port wine1 a little flour to thicken1 #a or #b dozen oysters1 rather more than #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,cut the steaks rather thick1 from cold sirloin or ribs of beef2 brown them lightly in a stewpan1 with the butter and a little water2 add #a_/b pint of water1 the onion1 pepper1 and salt1 and cover the stewpan closely1 and let it simmer very gently for #a_/b hour2 then mix about a teaspoonful of flour smoothly with a little of the liquor2 add the port wine and oysters1 their liquor having been previously strained and put into the stewpan2 stir till the oysters plump1 and serve4 ,it should not boil after the oysters are added1 or they will harden4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #as4 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,stewed ,,brisket ,,of ,,beef4 #ffi4 ,,ingredients4--#g lbs4 of a brisket of beef1 vinegar and salt1 #f carrots1 #f turnips1 #f small onions1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #b whole allspice pounded1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of ketchup2 stock1 or water4 ,mode4--,about an hour before dressing it1 rub the meat over with vinegar and salt2 put it into a stewpan1 with sufficient stock to cover it 7when this is not at hand1 water may be substituted for it71 and be particular that the stewpan is not much larger than the meat4 ,skim well1 and when it has simmered very gently for #a hour1 put in the vegetables1 and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender4 ,draw out the bones1 dish the meat1 and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower or braised cabbage cut in quarters4 ,thicken as much gravy as required1 with a little butter and flour2 add spices and ketchup in the above proportion1 give one boil1 pour some of it over the meat1 and the remainder send in a tureen4 ,time4--rather more than #c hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may be served as a soup1 or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen4 ,,stewed ,,rump ,,of ,,beef4 #fgj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b rump of beef1 sufficient stock to cover it 7,no4 #aje71 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #b tablespoonfuls of ketchup1 #a large bunch of savoury herbs1 #b onions1 #ab cloves1 pepper and salt to taste1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,cut out the bone1 sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne 7this must be sparingly used71 and bind and tie it firmly up with tape2 put it into a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it1 and add vinegar1 ketchup1 herbs1 onions1 cloves1 and seasoning in the above proportion1 and simmer very gently for #d or #e hours1 or until the meat is perfectly tender1 which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer4 ,when done1 remove the tape1 lay it into a deep dish1 which keep hot2 strain and skim the gravy1 thicken it with butter and flour1 add a glass of port wine and any flavouring to make the gravy rich and palatable2 let it boil up1 pour over the meat1 and serve4 ,this dish may be very much enriched by garnishing with forcemeat balls1 or filling up the space whence the bone is taken with a good forcemeat2 sliced carrots1 turnips1 and onions boiled with the meat1 are also a great improvement1 and1 where expense is not objected to1 it may be glazed4 ,this1 however1 is not necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat4 ,time4--#a_/b rump stewed gently from #d to #e hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #h or #aj persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,a stock or gravy in which to boil the meat1 may be made of the bone and trimmings1 by boiling them with water1 and adding carrots1 onions1 turnips1 and a bunch of sweet herbs4 ,to make this dish richer and more savoury1 half-roast the rump1 and afterwards stew it in strong stock and a little ,madeira4 ,this is an expensive method1 and is not1 after all1 much better than a plainer-dressed joint4 ,,the ,,baron ,,of ,,beef4--,this noble joint1 which consisted of two sirloins not cut asunder1 was a favourite dish of our ancestors4 ,it is rarely seen nowadays2 indeed1 it seems out of place on a modern table1 as it requires the grim boar's head and ,christmas pie as supporters4 ,sir ,walter ,scott has described a feast at which the baron of beef would have appeared to great advantage4 ,we will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when ,england was merry ,england1 and when hospitality was thought to be the highest virtue4 ,the fire1 with well-dried logs supplied1 ,went roaring up the chimney wide2 ,the huge hall-table's oaken face1 ,scrubb'd till it shone1 the day to grace1 ,bore then1 upon its massive board1 ,no mark to part the squire and lord4 ,then was brought in the lusty brawn1 ,by old blue-coated serving-man2 ,then the grim boar's head frown'd on high1 ,crested with bays and rosemary4 ,well can the green-garb'd ranger tell ,how1 when1 and where the monster fell2 ,what dogs before his death he tore1 ,and all the baiting of the boar2 ,while round the merry wassel bowl1 ,garnish'd with ribbons1 blithe did trowl4 ,there the huge sirloin reek'd2 hard by ,plum-porridge stood1 and ,christmas pie2 ,nor fail'd old ,scotland to produce1 ,at such high tide1 her savoury goose4 ,when a lord's son came of age1 in the olden time1 the baron of beef was too small a joint1 by many degrees1 to satisfy the retainers who would flock to the hall2 a whole ox was therefore generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs4 ,we may here mention1 that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen ,thames1 in the early part of the present century4 ,,stewed ,,shin ,,of ,,beef4 #fga4 ,,ingredients4--,a shin of beef1 #a head of celery1 #a onion1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/b teaspoonful of allspice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole black pepper1 #d carrots1 #ab button onions1 #b turnips1 thickening of butter and flour1 #c tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 #b tablespoonfuls of port wine2 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,have the bone sawn into #d or #e pieces1 cover with hot water1 bring it to a boil1 and remove any scum that may rise to the surface4 ,put in the celery1 onion1 herbs1 spice1 and seasoning1 and simmer very gently until the meat is tender4 ,peel the vegetables1 cut them into any shape fancy may dictate1 and boil them with the onions until tender2 lift out the beef1 put it on a dish1 which keep hot1 and thicken with butter and flour as much of the liquor as will be wanted for gravy2 keep stirring till it boils1 then strain and skim4 ,put the gravy back in the stewpan1 add the seasoning1 port wine1 and ketchup1 give one boil1 and pour it over the beef2 garnish with the boiled carrots1 turnips1 and onions4 ,time4--,the meat to be stewed about #d hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per lb4 with bone4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,toad-,,in-,,the-,,hole 7a ,homely but ,savoury ,dish74 #fgb4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of rump-steak1 #a sheep's kidney1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,for the batter1 #c eggs1 #a pint of milk1 #d tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces1 and put them into a pie-dish1 with a good seasoning of salt and pepper2 mix the flour with a small quantity of milk at first1 to prevent its being lumpy2 add the remainder1 and the #c eggs1 which should be well beaten2 put in the salt1 stir the batter for about #e minutes1 and pour it over the steak4 ,place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately1 and bake for #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the remains of cold beef1 rather underdone1 may be substituted for the steak1 and1 when liked1 the smallest possible quantity of minced onion or shalot may be added4 ,,boiled ,,tongue4 #fgc4 ,,ingredients4--#a tongue1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 water4 ,mode4--,in choosing a tongue1 ascertain how long it has been dried or pickled1 and select one with a smooth skin1 which denotes its being young and tender4 ,if a dried one1 and rather hard1 soak it at least for #ab hours previous to cooking it2 if1 however1 it is fresh from the pickle1 #b or #c hours will be sufficient for it to remain in sock4 ,put the tongue in a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs2 let it gradually come to a boil1 skim well and simmer very gently until tender4 ,peel off the skin1 garnish with tufts of cauliflowers or ,brussels sprouts1 and serve4 ,boiled tongue is frequently sent to table with boiled poultry1 instead of ham1 and is1 by many persons1 preferred4 ,if to serve cold1 peel it1 fasten it down to a piece of board by sticking a fork through the root1 and another through the top1 to straighten it4 ,when cold1 glaze it1 and put a paper ruche round the root1 and garnish with tufts of parsley4 ,time4--,a large smoked tongue1 #d to #d-a_/b hours2 a small one1 #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,a large unsmoked tongue1 #c to #c-a_/b hours2 a small one1 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 for a moderate sized tongue1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,cure ,,tongues4 ,i4 #fgd4 ,,ingredients4--,for a tongue of #g lbs41 #a oz4 of saltpetre1 #a_/b oz4 of black pepper1 #d oz4 of sugar1 #c oz4 of juniper berries1 #f oz4 of salt4 ,mode4--,rub the above ingredients well into the tongue1 and let it remain in the pickle for #aj days or a fortnight2 then drain it1 tie it up in brown paper1 and have it smoked for about #bj days over a wood fire2 or it may be boiled out of this pickle4 ,time4--,from #aj to #ad days to remain in the pickle2 to be smoked #bd days4 ,average cost1 for a medium-sized uncured tongue1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,if not wanted immediately1 the tongue will keep #c or #d weeks without being too salt2 then it must not be rubbed1 but only turned in the pickle4 ,,ii4 #fge4 ,,ingredients4--#i lbs4 of salt1 #h oz4 of sugar1 #i oz4 of powdered saltpetre4 ,mode4--,rub the above ingredients well into the tongues1 and keep them in this curing mixture for #b months1 turning them every day4 ,drain them from the pickle1 cover with brown paper1 and have them smoked for about #c weeks4 ,time4--,the tongues to remain in pickle #b months2 to be smoked #c weeks4 ,sufficient4--,the above quantity of brine sufficient for #ab tongues1 of #e lbs4 each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,beef ,,tongue4 ,,the ,,tongues ,,of ,,animals4--,the tongue1 whether in the ox or in man1 is the seat of the sense of taste4 ,this sense warns the animal against swallowing deleterious substances4 ,dr4 ,carpenter says1 that1 among the lower animals1 the instinctive perceptions connected with this sense1 are much more remarkable than our own2 thus1 an omnivorous monkey will seldom touch fruits of a poisonous character1 although their taste may be agreeable4 ,however this may be1 man's instinct has decided that ox-tongue is better than horse-tongue2 nevertheless1 the latter is frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former4 ,the horse's tongue may be readily distinguished by a spoon-like expansion at its end4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,and ,,dress ,a ,,tongue ,,to ,,eat ,,cold4 #fgf4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of salt1 #b oz4 of bay-salt1 #a oz4 of saltpetre1 #c oz4 of coarse sugar2 cloves1 mace1 and allspice to taste2 butter1 common crust of flour and water4 ,mode4--,lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle1 turn it every day1 and be particular that the spices are well pounded2 put it into a small pan just large enough to hold it1 place some pieces of butter on it1 and cover with a common crust4 ,bake in a slow oven until so tender that a straw would penetrate it2 take off the skin1 fasten it down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and another through the tip1 at the same time straightening it and putting it into shape4 ,when cold1 glaze it1 put a paper ruche round the root1 which is generally very unsightly1 and garnish with tufts of parsley4 ,time4--,from #c or #d hours in a slow oven1 according to size4 ,average cost1 for a medium-sized uncured tongue1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,dress ,,tripe4 #fgg4 ,,ingredients4--,tripe1 onion sauce1 ,no4 #dhd1 milk and water4 ,mode4--,ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh1 and have it cleaned and dressed4 ,cut away the coarsest fat1 and boil it in equal proportions of milk and water for #c_/d hour4 ,should the tripe be entirely undressed1 more than double that time should be allowed for it4 ,have ready some onion sauce made by recipe ,no4 #d,s#d1 dish the tripe1 smother it with the sauce1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,time4--#a hour3 for undressed tripe1 from #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways3 it may be cut in pieces and fried in batter1 stewed in gravy with mushrooms1 or cut into collops1 sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs1 and fried a nice brown in clarified butter4 ,,beef ,,carving4 ,,aitchbone ,,of ,,beef4 ,a boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve1 as will be seen on reference to the accompanying engraving4 ,by following with the knife the direction of the line from #a to #b1 nice slices will be easily cut4 ,it may be necessary1 as in a round of beef1 to cut a thick slice off the outside before commencing to serve4 ,illustration ,,brisket ,,of ,,beef4 ,there is but little description necessary to add1 to show the carving of a boiled brisket of beef1 beyond the engraving here inserted4 ,the only point to be observed is1 that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly quite across the bones1 so that1 on its reappearance at table1 it should not have a jagged and untidy look4 ,illustration ,,ribs ,,of ,,beef4 ,this dish resembles the sirloin1 except that it has no fillet or undercut4 ,as explained in the recipes1 the end piece is often cut off1 salted and boiled4 ,the mode of carving is similar to that of the sirloin1 viz41 in the direction of the dotted line from #a to #b4 ,this joint will be the more easily cut if the plan be pursued which is suggested in carving the sirloin2 namely1 the inserting of the knife immediately between the bone and the moat1 before commencing to cut it into slices4 ,all joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin slices4 ,horseradish1 finely scraped1 may be served as a garnish2 but horseradish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef4 ,illustration ,,sirloin ,,of ,,beef4 ,this dish is served differently at various tables1 some preferring it to come to table with the fillet1 or1 as it is usually called1 the undercut1 uppermost4 ,the reverse way1 as shown in the cut1 is that most usually adopted4 ,still the undercut is best eaten when hot2 consequently1 the carver himself may raise the joint1 and cut some slices from the under side1 in the direction of from #a to #b1 as the fillet is very much preferred by some eaters4 ,the upper part of the sirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from #e to #f1 and care should be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices4 ,it will be found a great assistance1 in carving this joint well1 if the knife be first inserted just above the bone at the bottom1 and run sharply along between the bone and meat1 and also to divide the meat from the bone in the same way at the side of the joint4 ,the slices will then come away more readily4 ,illustration ,some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across1 as shown by the line from #c to #d2 but this is a wasteful plan1 and one not to be recommended4 ,with the sirloin1 very finely-scraped horseradish is usually served1 and a little given1 when liked1 to each guest4 ,horseradish sauce is preferable1 however1 for serving on the plate1 although the scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish4 ,illustration ,a ,,round ,,of ,,beef4 ,a round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef1 and to manage it properly1 a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is necessary4 ,off the outside of the joint1 at its top1 a thick slice should first be cut1 so as to leave the surface smooth2 then thin and even slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line #a to #b2 and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel of the fat should be served4 ,illustration ,,beef ,,tongue4 ,passing the knife down in the direction of from #a to #b1 a not too thin slice should be helped2 and the carving of a tongue may be continued in this way until the best portions of the upper side are served4 ,the fat which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning the tongue1 and cutting in the direction of from #c to #d4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,sheep ,,and ,,lamb4 #fgh4 ,,of ,,all ,,wild or ,,domesticated ,,animals1 the sheep is1 without exception1 the most useful to man as a food1 and the most necessary to his health and comfort2 for it not only supplies him with the lightest and most nutritious of meats1 but1 in the absence of the cow1 its udder yields him milk1 cream1 and a sound though inferior cheese2 while from its fat he obtains light1 and from its fleece broadcloth1 kerseymere1 blankets1 gloves1 and hose4 ,its bones when burnt make an animal charcoal--ivory black--to polish his boots1 and when powdered1 a manure for the cultivation of his wheat2 the skin1 either split or whole1 is made into a mat for his carriage1 a housing for his horse1 or a lining for his hat1 and many other useful purposes besides1 being extensively employed in the manufacture of parchment2 and finally1 when oppressed by care and sorrow1 the harmonious strains that carry such soothing contentment to the heart1 are elicited from the musical strings1 prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep4 #fgi4 ,,this ,,valuable ,,animal1 of which ,england is estimated to maintain an average stock of #cb1jjj1jjj1 belongs to the class already indicated under the ox1--the ,mammalia2 to the order of ,rumenantia1 or cud-chewing animal2 to the tribe of ,capridae1 or horned quadrupeds2 and the genus ,ovis1 or the sheep4 ,the sheep may be either with or without horns2 when present1 however1 they have always this peculiarity1 that they spring from a triangular base1 are spiral in form1 and lateral1 at the side of the head1 in situation4 ,the fleece of the sheep is of two sorts1 either short and harsh1 or soft and woolly2 the wool always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care1 attention1 and amount of domestication bestowed on the animal4 ,the generic peculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the horns1 always larger in the male when present1 but absent in the most cultivated species2 having sinuses at the base of all the toes of the four feet1 with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs1 two inguinal teats to the udder1 with a short tail in the wild breed1 but of varying length in the domesticated2 have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw1 but in their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum1 on which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds2 in the lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side of both jaws1 making in all #cb teeth4 ,the fleece consists of two coats1 one to keep the animal warm1 the other to carry off the water without wetting the skin4 ,the first is of wool1 the weight and fineness of which depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock2 the other of hair1 that pierces the wool and overlaps it1 and is in excess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention with which the animal is treated4 #fhj4 ,,the ,,great ,,object ,,of ,,the ,,grazier is to procure an animal that will yield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time2 or1 in other words1 soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine fleece4 ,all sheep will not do this alike2 some1 like men1 are so restless and irritable1 that no system of feeding1 however good1 will develop their frames or make them fat4 ,the system adopted by the breeder to obtain a valuable animal for the butcher1 is to enlarge the capacity and functions of the digestive organs1 and reduce those of the head and chest1 or the mental and respiratory organs4 ,in the first place1 the mind should be tranquillized1 and those spaces that can never produce animal fibre curtailed1 and greater room afforded1 as in the abdomen1 for those that can4 ,and as nothing militates against the fattening process so much as restlessness1 the chief wish of the grazier is to find a dull1 indolent sheep1 one who1 instead of frisking himself1 leaping his wattles1 or even condescending to notice the butting gambols of his silly companions1 silently fills his paunch with pasture1 and then seeking a shady nook1 indolently and luxuriously chows his cud with closed eyes and blissful satisfaction1 only rising when his delicious repast is ended1 to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat the pleasing process of laying in more provender1 and then returning to his dreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination4 ,such animals are said to have a lymphatic temperament1 and are of so kindly a nature1 that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily4 ,the ,leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented animal1 and the active ,orkney1 who is half goat in his habits1 of the restless and unprofitable4 ,the rich pasture of our midland counties would take years in making the wiry ,orkney fat and profitable1 while one day's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would probably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded ,leicester4 #fha4 ,,the ,,more ,,removed ,,from ,,the ,,nature of the animal is the food on which it lives1 the more difficult is the process of assimilation1 and the more complex the chain of digestive organs2 for it must be evident to all1 that the same apparatus that converts flesh into flesh1 is hardly calculated to transmute grass into flesh4 ,as the process of digestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple1 these organs are found to be remarkably short1 seldom exceeding the length of the animal's body2 while1 where digestion is more difficult1 from the unassimilating nature of the aliment1 as in the ruminant order1 the alimentary canal1 as is the case with the sheep1 is twenty-seven times the length of the body4 ,the digestive organ in all ruminant animals consists of four stomachs1 or1 rather1 a capacious pouch1 divided by doorways and valves into four compartments1 called1 in their order of position1 the ,paunch1 the ,reticulum1 the ,omasum1 and the ,abomasum4 ,when the sheep nibbles the grass1 and is ignorantly supposed to be eating1 he is1 in fact1 only preparing the raw material of his meal1 in reality only mowing the pasture1 which1 as he collects1 is swallowed instantly1 passing into the first receptacle1 the paunch1 where it is surrounded by a quantity of warm saliva1 in which the herbage undergoes a process of maceration or softening1 till the animal having filled this compartment1 the contents pass through a valve into the second or smaller bag1--the reticulum1 where1 having again filled the paunch with a reserve1 the sheep lies down and commences that singular process of chewing the cud1 or1 in other words1 masticating the food he has collected4 ,by the operation of a certain set of muscles1 a small quantity of this softened food from the reticulum1 or second bag1 is passed into the mouth1 which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep to grind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp1 the operation being further assisted by a flow of saliva1 answering the double purpose of increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of the mass4 ,having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful1 it is swallowed a second time2 but instead of returning to the paunch or reticulum1 it passes through another valve into a side cavity1--the omasum1 where1 after a maceration in more saliva for some hours1 it glides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch1--the abomasum1 an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of animals1 and where the process of digestion1 begun and carried on in the previous three1 is here consummated1 and the nutrient principle1 by means of the bile1 eliminated from the digested aliment4 ,such is the process of digestion in sheep and oxen4 #fhb4 ,,no ,,other ,,animal1 even of the same order1 possesses in so remarkable a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the ,leicestershire sheep2 the ,south ,down and ,cheviot1 the two next breeds in quality1 are1 in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal's nature1 not equal to it in that respect1 though in both the brain and chest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs of digestion4 ,besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces1 the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in those parts of the carcase most esteemed as food1 or1 what are called in the trade prime joints2 and so far has this been effected1 that the comparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test of quality in the breed1 the butchers in some markets charging twopence a pound more for that portion of the sheep4 ,indeed1 so superior are the hind quarters of mutton now regarded1 that very many of the ,west-end butchers never deal in any other part of the sheep4 #fhc4 ,,the ,,difference ,,in ,,the ,,quality ,,of ,,the ,,flesh in various breeds is a well-established fact1 not alone in flavour1 but also in tenderness2 and that the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the flavour of the meat1 is equally certain1 and shown in the estimation in which those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of ,bamstead in ,sussex4 ,it is also a well-established truth1 that the larger the frame of the animal1 the coarser is the meat1 and that small bones are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and the delicacy of the flesh4 ,the sex too has much to do in determining the quality of the meat2 in the males1 the lean is closer in fibre1 deeper in colour1 harder in texture1 less juicy1 and freer from fat1 than in the female1 and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion2 but probably age1 and the character of the pasturage on which they are reared1 has1 more than any other cause1 an influence on the quality and tenderness of the meat4 #fhd4 ,,the ,,numerous ,,varieties of sheep inhabiting the different regions of the earth have been reduced by ,cuvier to three1 or at most four1 species3 the ,ovis ,amman1 or the ,argali1 the presumed parent stock of all the rest2 the ,ovis ,tragelaphus1 the bearded sheep of ,africa2 the ,ovis ,musmon1 the ,musmon of ,southern ,europe2 and the ,ovis ,montana1 the ,mouflon of ,america2 though it is believed by many naturalists that this last is so nearly identical with the ,indian ,argali as to be undeserving a separate place4 ,it is still a controversy to which of these three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication2 the ,argali1 however1 by general belief1 has been considered as the most probable progenitor of the present varieties4 #fhe4 ,,the ,,effects ,,produced ,,by ,,change ,,of ,,climate1 accident1 and other causes1 must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical alteration as the primitive ,argali must have undergone before the ,musmon1 or ,mouflon of ,corsica1 the immediate progenitor of all our ,european breeds1 assumed his present appearance4 ,the ,argali is about a fifth larger in size than the ordinary ,english sheep1 and being a native of a tropical clime1 his fleece is of hair instead of wool1 and of a warm reddish brown1 approaching to yellow2 a thick mane of darker hair1 about seven inches long1 commences from two long tufts at the angle of the jaws1 and1 running under the throat and neck1 descends down the chest1 dividing1 at the fore fork1 into two parts1 one running down the front of each leg1 as low as the shank4 ,the horns1 unlike the character of the order generally1 have a quadrangular base1 and1 sweeping inwards1 terminate in a sharp point4 ,the tail1 about seven inches long1 ends in a tuft of stiff hairs4 ,from this remarkable muffler-looking beard1 the ,french have given the species the name of ,mouflon manchettes4 ,from the primitive stock eleven varieties have been reared in this country1 of the domesticated sheep1 each supposed by their advocates to possess some one or more special qualities4 ,these eleven1 embracing the ,shetland or ,orkney2 the ,dun-woolled2 ,black-faced1 or heath-bred2 the ,moorland1 or ,devonshire2 the ,cheviot2 the ,horned1 of ,norfolk the ,ryeland2 ,south-,down2 the ,merino2 the ,old ,leicester1 and the ,teeswater1 or ,new ,leicester1 have of late years been epitomized2 and1 for all useful and practical purposes1 reduced to the following four orders3-- #fhf4 ,,the ,,south-,,down1 the ,,leicester1 the ,,black-,,faced1 and the ,,cheviot4 ,illustration3 ,,south-,,down ,,ram4 ,illustration3 ,,south-,,down ,,ewe4 #fhg4 ,,south-,,downs4--,it appears1 as far as our investigation can trace the fact1 that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in ,england1 the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the south-west and south of ,sussex and ,hampshire1 and known as the ,south-,downs1 has been famous for a superior race of sheep2 and we find the ,romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at ,winchester1 where they may be said to terminate1 which rose to such estimation1 from the fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth1 that the produce was kept as only worthy to clothe emperors4 ,from this1 it may be inferred that sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract4 ,though boasting so remote a reputation1 it is comparatively within late years that the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed has been effected1 the ,south-,down new ranking1 for symmetry of shape1 constitution1 and early maturity1 with any stock in the kingdom4 ,the ,south-,down has no horns1 is covered with a fine wool from two to three inches long1 has a small head1 and legs and face of a grey colour4 ,it is1 however1 considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest4 ,a marked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher than the fore1 the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds4 ,illustration3 ,,leicester ,,ram4 ,illustration3 ,,leicester ,,ewe4 #fhh4 ,,the ,,leicester4--,it was not till the year #agee that ,mr4 ,robert ,bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of sheep1 and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place4 ,the ,leicester is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds1 very productive1 and yielding a good fleece4 ,he has a small head1 covered with short white hairs1 a clean muzzle1 an open countenance1 full eye1 long thin ear1 tapering neck1 well-arched ribs1 and straight back4 ,the meat is indifferent1 its flavour not being so good as that of the ,south-,down1 and there is a very large proportion of fat4 ,average weight of carcase from #ij to #ajj lbs4 ,illustration3 ,,heath ,,ram4 ,illustration3 ,,heath ,,ewe4 #fhi4 ,,black-,,faced1 on ,,heath-,,bred ,,sheep4--,this is the most hardy of all our native breeds1 and originally came from ,ettrick ,forest4 ,the face and legs are black1 or sometimes mottled1 the horns spiral1 and on the top of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than on the face2 has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue1 and what shepherds call a mealy mouth2 the eye is full of vivacity and fire1 and well open2 the body long1 round1 and firm1 and the limbs robust4 ,the wool is thin1 coarse1 and light4 ,weight of the quarter1 from #aj to #af lbs4 #fij4 ,,the ,,cheviot4--,from the earliest traditions1 these hills in the ,north1 like the chalk-ridges in the ,south1 have possessed a race of large-carcased sheep1 producing a valuable fleece4 ,to these physical advantages1 they added a sound constitution1 remarkable vigour1 and capability to endure great privation4 ,both sexes are destitute of horns1 face white1 legs long and clean1 carries the head erect1 has the throat and neck well covered1 the cars long and open1 and the face animated4 ,the ,cheviot is a small-boned sheep1 and well covered with wool to the hough2 the only defect in this breed1 is in a want of depth in the chest4 ,weight of the quarter1 from #ab to #ah lbs4 ,illustration3 ,,romney-,,marsh ,,ram4 ,illustration3 ,,romney-,,marsh ,,ewe4 #fia4 ,,though ,,the ,,romney ,,marshes1 that wide tract of morass and lowland moor extending from the ,weald 7or ancient forest7 of ,kent into ,sussex1 has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of sheep to be pastured on1 it has yet1 from the earliest date1 been famous for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality1 and especially for size1 length1 thickness1 and quantity of wool1 and what is called thickness of stocking2 and on this account for ages held pre-eminence over every other breed in the kingdom4 ,so satisfied were the ,kentish men with the superiority of their sheep1 that they long resisted any crossing in the breed4 ,at length1 however1 this was effected1 and from the ,old ,romney and ,new ,leicester a stock was produced that proved1 in an eminent degree1 the advantage of the cross2 and though the breed was actually smaller than the original1 it was found that the new stock did not consume so much food1 the stocking was increased1 they were ready for the market a year sooner2 that the fat formed more on the exterior of the carcase1 where it was of most advantage to the grazier1 rather than as formerly in the interior1 where it went to the butcher as offal2 and though the wool was shorter and lighter1 it was of a better colour1 finer1 and possessed of superior felting properties4 #fib4 ,,the ,,romney ,,marsh ,,breed is a large animal1 deep1 close1 and compact1 with white face and legs1 and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple quality4 ,the general structure is1 however1 considered defective1 the chest being narrow and the extremities coarse2 nevertheless its tendency to fatten1 and its early maturity1 are universally admitted4 ,the ,romney ,marsh1 therefore1 though not ranking as a first class in respect of perfection and symmetry of breed1 is a highly useful1 profitable1 and generally advantageous variety of the ,english domestic sheep4 #fic4 ,,different ,,names ,,have ,,been ,,given to sheep by their breeders1 according to their age and sex4 ,the male is called a ram1 or tup2 after weaning1 he is said to be a hog1 or hogget1 or a lamb-hog1 tup-hog1 or teg2 later he is a wether1 or wether-hog2 after the first shearing1 a shearing1 or dinmont2 and after each succeeding shearing1 a two1 three1 or four-shear ram1 tup1 or wether1 according to circumstances4 ,the female is called a ewe1 or gimmer-lamb1 till weaned1 when she becomes1 according to the shepherd's nomenclature1 a gimmer-ewe1 hog1 or teg2 after shearing1 a gimmer or shearing-ewe1 or theave2 and in future a two1 three1 or four-shear ewe1 or theave4 #fid4 ,,the ,,mode ,,of ,,slaughtering ,,sheep is perhaps as humane and expeditious a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought3 the animal being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool1 the butcher1 while pressing the body with his knee1 transfixes the throat near the angle of the jaw1 passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck2 thus dividing the jugulars1 carotids1 and large vessels1 the death being very rapid from such a hemorrhage4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,of ,,mutton1 ,,showing ,,the ,,several ,,joints4 #fie4 ,,almost ,,every ,,large ,,city has a particular manner of cutting up1 or1 as it is called1 dressing the carcase4 ,in ,london this process is very simple1 and as our butchers have found that much skewering back1 doubling one part over another1 or scoring the inner cuticle or fell1 tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep1 they avoid all such treatment entirely4 ,the carcase when flayed 7which operation is performed while yet warm71 the sheep when hung up and the head removed1 presents the profile shown in our cut2 the small numerals indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut4 ,after separating the hind from the fore quarters1 with eleven ribs to the latter1 the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in the sketch1 in which the several joins are defined by the intervening lines and figures4 ,hind quarter3 ,no4 #a1 the leg2 #b1 the loin--the two1 when cut in one piece1 being called the saddle4 ,fore quarter3 ,no4 #c1 the shoulder2 #d and #e the neck2 ,no4 #e being called1 for distinction1 the scrag1 which is generally afterwards separated from #d1 the lower and better joint2 ,no4 #f1 the breast4 ,the haunch of mutton1 so often served at public dinners and special entertainments1 comprises all the leg and so much of the loin1 short of the ribs or lap1 as is indicated on the upper part of the carcase by a dotted line4 #fif4 ,,the ,,gentle ,,and ,,timid ,,disposition of the sheep1 and its defenceless condition1 must very early have attached it to man for motives less selfish than either its fleece or its flesh2 for it has been proved beyond a doubt that1 obtuse as we generally regard it1 it is susceptible of a high degree of domesticity1 obedience1 and affection4 ,in many parts of ,europe1 where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone1 it is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its name1 and follow the keeper like a dog4 ,in the mountains of ,scotland1 when a flock is invaded by a savage dog1 the rams have been known to form the herd into a circle1 and placing themselves on the outside line1 keep the enemy at bay1 or charging on him in a troop1 have despatched him with their horns4 #fig4 ,,the ,,value ,,of ,,the ,,sheep seems to have been early understood by ,adam in his fallen state2 his skin not only affording him protection for his body1 but a covering for his tent2 and accordingly1 we find ,abel intrusted with this portion of his father's stock2 for the ,bible tells us that ,abel was a keeper of sheep4 ,what other animals were domesticated at that time we can only conjecture1 or at what exact period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man1 is equally1 if not uncertain1 open to controversy4 ,for though some authorities maintain the contrary1 it is but natural to suppose that when ,abel brought firstlings of his flock1 and the fat thereof1 as a sacrifice1 the less dainty portions1 not being oblations1 were hardly likely to have been flung away as refuse4 ,indeed1 without supposing ,adam and his descendants to have eaten animal food1 we cannot reconcile the fact of ,jubal ,cain1 ,cain's son1 and his family1 living in tents1 as they are reported to have done1 knowing that both their own garments and the coverings of the tents1 were made from the hides and skins of the animals they bred2 for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations only1 would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary purposes4 ,the opposite opinion is1 that animal food was not eaten till after the ,flood1 when the ,lord renewed his covenant with ,noah4 ,from ,scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the sheep3 the first1 that mutton fat was considered the most delicious portion of any meat1 and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite morsel in the whole body2 consequently1 such were regarded as especially fit for the offer of sacrifice4 ,from this fact we may reasonably infer that the animal still so often met with in ,palestine and ,syria1 and known as the ,fat-tailed sheep1 was in use in the days of the patriarchs1 though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to2 a supposition that gains greater strength1 when it is remembered that the ram ,abraham found in the bush1 when he went to offer up ,isaac1 was a horned animal1 being entangled in the brake by his curved horns2 so far proving that it belonged to the tribe of the ,capridae1 the fat-tailed sheep appertaining to the same family4 ,,lambs4 #fih4 ,,though ,,the ,,lambing ,,season ,,in ,,this ,,country usually commences in ,march1 under the artificial system1 so much pursued now to please the appetite of luxury1 lambs can be procured at all seasons4 ,when1 however1 the sheep lambs in mid-winter1 or the inclemency of the weather would endanger the lives of mother and young1 if exposed to its influence1 it is customary to rear the lambs within-doors1 and under the shelter of stables or barns1 where1 foddered on soft hay1 and part fed on cow's milk1 the little creatures thrive rapidly3 to such it is customary to give the name of ,house ,lamb1 to distinguish it from that reared in the open air1 or grass-fed4 ,the ewe goes five months with her young1 about #aeb days1 or close on #bb weeks4 ,the weaning season commences on poor lands1 about the end of the third month1 but on rich pasture not till the close of the fourth--sometimes longer4 #fii4 ,,from ,,the ,,large ,,proportion ,,of ,,moisture ,,or ,,fluids contained in the tissues of all young animals1 the flesh of lamb and veal is much more prone1 in close1 damp weather1 to become tainted and spoil than the flesh of the more mature1 drier1 and closer-textured beef and mutton4 ,among epicures1 the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the ,south-,down breed1 known by their black feet2 and of these1 those which have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe1 are considered the finest4 ,next to these in estimation are those fed on the milk of several dams1 and last of all1 though the fattest1 the grass-fed lamb2 this1 however1 implies an age much greater than either of the others4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,of ,,lamb4 #gjj4 ,,lamb1 in the early part of the season1 however reared1 is in ,london1 and indeed generally1 sold in quarters1 divided with eleven ribs to the forequarter2 but1 as the season advances1 these are subdivided into two1 and the hind-quarter in the same manner2 the first consisting of the shoulder1 and the neck and breast2 the latter1 of the leg and the loin1--as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton4 ,as lamb1 from the juicy nature of its flesh1 is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather1 it should be frequently wiped1 so as to remove any moisture that may form on it4 #gja4 ,,in ,,the ,,purchasing ,,of ,,lamb ,,for ,,the ,,table1 there are certain signs by which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion whether the animal has been lately slaughtered1 and whether the joints possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat4 ,the first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and dilated appearance of the eye2 the quality of the fore-quarter can always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular1 or vein of the neck2 while the rigidity of the knuckle1 and the firm1 compact feel of the kidney1 will answer in an equally positive manner for the integrity of the hind-quarter4 #gjb4 ,,mode ,,of ,,cutting ,,up ,a ,,side ,,of ,,lamb ,,in ,,london4--#a1 #a4 ,ribs2 #b4 ,breast2 #c4 ,shoulder2 #d4 ,loin2 #e4 ,leg2 #a1b1c4 ,fore ,quarter4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,baked ,,minced ,,mutton 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gjc4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of any joint of cold roast mutton1 #a or #b onions1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b blades of pounded mace or nutmeg1 #b tablespoonfuls of gravy1 mashed potatoes4 ,mode4--,mince an onion rather fine1 and fry it a light-brown colour2 add the herbs and mutton1 both of which should be also finely minced and well mixed2 season with pepper and salt1 and a little pounded mace or nutmeg1 and moisten with the above proportion of gravy4 ,put a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish1 then the mutton1 and then another layer of potatoes1 and bake for about #a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,if there should be a large quantity of meat1 use #b onions instead of #a4 ,,boiled ,,breast ,,of ,,mutton ,,and ,,caper ,,sauce4 #gjd4 ,,ingredients4--,breast of mutton1 bread crumbs1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs 7put a large proportion of parsley71 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut off the superfluous fat2 bone it2 sprinkle over a layer of bread crumbs1 minced herbs1 and seasoning2 roll1 and bind it up firmly4 ,boil gently for #b hours1 remove the tape1 and serve with caper sauce1 ,no4 #chb1 a little of which should be poured over the meat4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #f persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,boiled ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 #gje4 ,,ingredients4--,mutton1 water1 salt4 ,mode4--,a4 leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long1 as it will not look a good colour when dressed4 ,cut off the shank-bone1 trim the knuckle1 and wash and wipe it very clean2 plunge it into sufficient boiling water to cover it2 let it boil up1 then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire1 where it should remain till the finger can be borne in the water4 ,then place it sufficiently near the fire1 that the water may gently simmer1 and be very careful that it does not boil fast1 or the meat will be hard4 ,skim well1 add a little salt1 and in about #b-a_/d hours after the water begins to simmer1 a moderate-sized leg of mutton will be done4 ,serve with carrots and mashed turnips1 which may be boiled with the meat1 and send caper sauce 7,no4 #chb7 to table with it in a tureen4 ,time4--,a moderate-sized leg of mutton of #i lbs41 #b-a_/d hours after the water boils2 one of #ab lbs41 #c hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a moderate-sized leg of mutton for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable nearly all the year1 but not so good in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,note4--,when meat is liked very thoroughly cooked1 allow more time than stated above4 ,the liquor this joint was boiled in should be converted into soup4 ,,the ,,good ,,shepherd4--,the sheep's complete dependence upon the shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently referred to in the ,bible2 thus the ,psalmist likens himself to a lost sheep1 and prays the ,almighty to seek his servant2 and our ,saviour1 when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach the ,gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren1 compares them to lambs going amongst wolves4 ,the shepherd of the ,east1 by kind treatment1 calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of affection4 ,the sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by which he calls them1 and they follow him in and out of the fold4 ,the beautiful figure of the good shepherd1 which so often occurs in the ,new ,testament1 expresses the tenderness of the ,saviour for mankind4 ,the good shepherd giveth his life for the sheep4--,john1 x4 #aa4 ,i am the good shepherd1 and know my sheep1 and am known by mine4--,john1 x4 #ad4 ,and other sheep ,i have which are not of this fold3 them also ,i must bring1 and they shall hear my voice3 and there shall be one fold and one shepherd4--,john1 x4 #af4 ,,boned ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton ,,stuffed4 #gjf4 ,,ingredients4--,a small leg of mutton1 weighing #f or #g lbs41 forcemeat1 ,no4 #dag1 #b shalots finely minced4 ,mode4--,make a forcemeat by recipe ,no4 #dag1 to which add #b finely-minced shalots4 ,bone the leg of mutton1 without spoiling the skin1 and cut off a great deal of the fat4 ,fill the hole up whence the bone was taken1 with the forcemeat1 and sew it up underneath1 to prevent its falling out4 ,bind and tie it up compactly1 and roast it before a nice clear fire for about #b-a_/b hours or rather longer2 remove the tape and send it to table with a good gravy4 ,it may be glazed or not1 as preferred4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,braised ,,fillet ,,of ,,mutton1 with ,french ,beans4 #gjg4 ,,ingredients4--,the chump end of a loin of mutton1 buttered paper1 ,french beans1 a little glaze1 #a pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper1 roast it for #b hours1 and do not allow it to acquire the least colour4 ,have ready some ,french beans1 boiled1 and drained on a sieve2 remove the paper from the mutton1 glaze it2 just heat up the beans in the gravy1 and lay them on the dish with the meat over them4 ,the remainder of the gravy may be strained1 and sent to table in a tureen4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,various ,,qualities ,,of ,,mutton--,mutton is1 undoubtedly1 the meat most generally used in families2 and1 both by connoisseurs and medical men1 it stands first in favour1 whether its the favour1 digestible qualifications1 or general wholesomeness1 be considered4 ,of all mutton1 that furnished by ,south-,down sheep is the most highly esteemed2 it is also the dearest1 on account of its scarcity1 and the great demand of it4 ,therefore1 if the housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his shop1 it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser4 ,the ,london and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep called half-breeds1 which are a cross between the ,down and ,lincoln or ,leicester4 ,these half-breeds make a greater weight of mutton than the true ,south-,downs1 and1 for this very desirable qualification1 they are preferred by the great sheep-masters4 ,the legs of this mutton range from #g to #aa lbs4 in weight2 the shoulders1 necks1 or loins1 about #f to #i lbs42 and if care is taken not to purchase it2 the shoulders1 necks1 or loins1 about #h to #i lbs42 and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat1 it will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that can be bought4 ,,braised ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 #gjh4 ,,ingredients4--#a small leg of mutton1 #d carrots1 #c onions1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 a bunch of parsley1 seasoning to taste of pepper and salt1 a few slices of bacon1 a few veal trimmings1 #a_/b pint of gravy or water4 ,mode4--,line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon1 put in the carrots1 onions1 herbs1 parsley1 and seasoning1 and over these place the mutton4 ,cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon and the veal trimmings1 pour in the gravy or water1 and stew very gently for #d hours4 ,strain the gravy1 reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire1 glaze the mutton with it1 and send it to table1 placed on a dish of white haricot beans boiled tender1 or garnished with glazed onions4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #es4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,order ,,of ,,the ,,golden ,,fleece4--,this order of knighthood was founded by ,philip the ,good1 duke of ,burgundy1 in #adbi1 on the day of his marriage with the ,princess ,isabella of ,portugal4 ,the number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one1 including the sovereign1 as the head and chief of the institution4 ,in #aeaf1 ,pope ,leo ,x4 consented to increase the number to fifty-two1 including the head4 ,in #agjj the ,german emperor ,charles ,,vi4 and ,king ,philip of ,spain both laid claim to the order4 ,the former1 however1 on leaving ,spain1 which he could not maintain by force of arms1 took with him1 to ,vienna1 the archives of the order1 the inauguration of which he solemnized there in #agac1 with great magnificence2 but ,philip ,v4 of ,spain declared himself ,grand ,master1 and formally protested1 at the congress of ,cambrai 7#agba71 against the pretensions of the emperor4 ,the dispute1 though subsequently settled by the intercession of ,france1 ,england1 and ,holland1 was frequently renewed1 until the order was tacitly introduced into both countries1 and it now passes by the respective names of the ,spanish or ,austrian ,order of the ,golden ,fleece1 according to the country where it is issued4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,way ,,to ,,cook ,a ,,breast ,,of ,,mutton4 #gji4 ,,ingredients4--,breast of mutton1 #b onions1 salt and pepper to taste1 flour1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 green peas4 ,mode4--,cut the mutton into pieces about #b inches square1 and let it be tolerably lean2 put it into a stewpan1 with a little fat or butter1 and fry it of a nice brown2 then dredge in a little flour1 slice the onions1 and put it with the herbs in the stewpan2 pour in sufficient water just to cover the meat1 and simmer the whole gently until the mutton is tender4 ,take out the meat1 strain1 and skim off all the fat from the gravy1 and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan2 add about a quart of young green peas1 and let them boil gently until done4 #b or #c slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional flavour2 and1 to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour1 they may be boiled in water separately1 and added to the stew at the moment of serving4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august4 ,,names ,,of ,,animals ,,saxon1 ,,and ,,of ,,their ,,flesh ,,norman4--,the names of all our domestic animals are of ,saxon origin2 but it is curious to observe that ,norman names have been given to the different sorts of flesh which these animals yield4 ,how beautifully this illustrates the relative position of ,saxon and ,norman after the ,conquest4 ,the ,saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding the domestic animals1 but only that they might appear on the table of his ,norman lord4 ,thus 'ox1' 'steer1' 'cow1' are ,saxon1 but 'beef' is ,norman2 'calf' is ,saxon1 but 'veal' ,norman2 'sheep' is ,saxon1 but 'mutton' ,norman2 so it is severally with 'deer' and 'venison1' 'swine' and 'pork1' 'fowl' and 'pullet4' ',bacon1' the only flesh which1 perhaps1 ever came within his reach1 is the single exception4 ,,broiled ,,mutton ,,and ,,tomato ,,sauce 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gaj4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold mutton1 tomato sauce1 ,no4 #ebi4 ,mode4--,cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton2 season them with pepper and salt1 and broil over a clear fire4 ,make some tomato sauce by recipe ,no4 #ebi1 pour it over the mutton1 and serve4 ,this makes an excellent dish1 and must be served very hot4 ,time4--,about #e minutes to broil the mutton4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october1 when tomatoes are plentiful and seasonable4 ,,shepherds ,,and ,,their ,,flocks4--,the shepherd's crook is older than either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword4 ,we are told that ,abel was a keeper of sheep4 ,many passages in holy writ enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern nations2 and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks1 when we read that ,jacob gave the children of ,hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field1 and that the king of ,israel received a hundred thousand every year from the king of ,moab1 his tributary1 and a like number of rams covered with their fleece4 ,the tendency which most sheep have to ramble1 renders it necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd4 ,to keep a flock within bounds1 is no easy task2 but the watchful shepherd manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep4 ,in the ,highlands of ,scotland1 where the herbage is scanty1 the sheep-farm requires to be very large1 and to be watched over by many shepherds4 ,the farms of some of the great ,scottish landowners are of enormous extent4 ,how many sheep have you on your estate8 asked ,prince ,esterhazy of the duke of ,argyll4 ,i have not the most remote idea1 replied the duke2 but ,i know the shepherds number several thousands4 ,,broiled ,,mutton ,,chops4 #gaa4 ,,ingredients4--,loin of mutton1 pepper and salt1 a small piece of butter4 ,mode4--,cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton1 remove a portion of the fat1 and trim them into a nice shape2 slightly beat and level them2 place the gridiron over a bright clear fire1 rub the bars with a little fat1 and lay on the chops4 ,whilst broiling1 frequently turn them1 and in about #h minutes they will be done4 ,season with pepper and salt1 dish them on a very hot dish1 rub a small piece of butter on each chop1 and serve very hot and expeditiously4 ,time4--,about #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a chop to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,china ,,chilo4 #gab4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of leg1 loin1 or neck of mutton1 #b onions1 #b lettuces1 #a pint of green peas1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a teaspoonful of pepper1 #a_/d pint of water1 #a_/d lb4 of clarified butter2 when liked1 a little cayenne4 ,mode4--,mince the above quantity of undressed leg1 loin1 or neck of mutton1 adding a little of the fat1 also minced2 put it into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients1 previously shredding the lettuce and onion rather fine2 closely cover the stewpan1 after the ingredients have been well stirred1 and simmer gently for rather more than #b hours4 ,serve in a dish1 with a border of rice round1 the same as for curry4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august4 ,,curried ,,mutton 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gac4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of any joint of cold mutton1 #b onions1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of curry powder1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 salt to taste1 #a_/d pint of stock or water4 ,mode4--,slice the onions in thin rings1 and put them into a stewpan with the butter1 and fry of a light brown2 stir in the curry powder1 flour1 and salt1 and mix all well together4 ,cut the meat into nice thin slices 7if there is not sufficient to do this1 it may be minced71 and add it to the other ingredients2 when well browned1 add the stock or gravy1 and stew gently for about #a_/b hour4 ,serve in a dish with a border of boiled rice1 the same as for other curries4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,cutlets ,,of ,,cold ,,mutton 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gad4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton1 #a egg1 bread crumbs1 brown gravy 7,no4 #dcf71 or tomato sauce 7,no4 #ebi74 ,mode4--,cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets1 trim them1 and take away a portion of the fat1 should there be too much2 dip them in beaten egg1 and sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and fry them a nice brown in hot dripping4 ,arrange them on a dish1 and pour round them either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce4 ,time4--,about #g minutes4 ,seasonable4--,tomatoes to be had most reasonably in ,september and ,october4 ,,dormers4 #gae4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of cold mutton1 #b oz4 of beef suet1 pepper and salt to taste1 #c oz4 of boiled rice1 #a egg1 bread crumbs1 made gravy4 ,mode4--,chop the meat1 suet1 and rice finely2 mix well together1 and add a high seasoning of pepper and salt1 and roll into sausages2 cover them with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown4 ,serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them1 and a little in a tureen4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to fry the sausages4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,golden ,,fleece4--,the ancient fable of the ,golden ,fleece may be thus briefly told3--,phryxus1 a son of ,athamus1 king of ,thebes1 to escape the persecutions of his stepmother ,ino1 paid a visit to his friend ,aeetes1 king of ,colchis4 ,a ram1 whose fleece was of pure gold1 carried the youth through the air in a most obliging manner to the court of his friend4 ,when safe ,at ,colchis1 ,phryxus offered the ram on the altars of ,mars1 and pocketed the fleece4 ,the king received him with great kindness1 and gave him his daughter ,chalciope in marriage2 but1 some time after1 he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the precious fleece4 ,the murder of ,phryxus was amply revenged by the ,greeks4 ,it gave rise to the famous ,argonautic expedition1 undertaken by ,jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of ,greece4 ,the ,argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the celebrated sorceress ,medea1 daughter of ,aeetes1 who fell desperately in love with the gallant but faithless ,jason4 ,in the story of the voyage of the ,argo1 a substratum of truth probably exists1 though overlaid by a mass of fiction4 ,the ram which carried ,phryxus to ,colchis is by some supposed to have been the name of the ship in which he embarked4 ,the fleece of gold is thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from ,thebes4 ,the alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly convinced that the ,golden ,fleece was a treatise on the transmutation of metals1 written on sheepskin4 ,,haricot ,,mutton4 ,i4 #gaf4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of the middle or best end of the neck of mutton1 #c carrots1 #c turnips1 #c onions1 popper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of ketchup or ,harvey's sauce4 ,mode4--,trim off some of the fat1 cut the mutton into rather thin chops1 and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings4 ,fry of a pale brown1 but do not cook them enough for eating4 ,cut the carrots and turnips into dice1 and the onions into slices1 and slightly fry them in the same fat that the mutton was browned in1 but do not allow them to take any colour4 ,now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan1 then the vegetables1 and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the whole4 ,give one boil1 skim well1 and then set the pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender4 ,skim off every particle of fat1 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and a little ketchup1 and serve4 ,this dish is very much better if made the day before it is wanted for table1 as the fat can be so much more easily removed when the gravy is cold4 ,this should be particularly attended to1 as it is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made4 ,it should be served in rather a deep dish4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours to simmer gently4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 #gag4 ,,ingredients4--,breast or scrag of mutton1 flour1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a large onion1 #c cloves1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a blade of mace1 carrots and turnips1 sugar4 ,mode4--,cut the mutton into square pieces1 and fry them a nice colour2 then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,put all into a stewpan1 and moisten with boiling water1 adding the onion1 stuck with #c cloves1 the mace1 and herbs4 ,simmer gently till the meat is nearly done1 skim off all the fat1 and then add the carrots and turnips1 which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a little sugar to colour them4 ,let the whole simmer again for #aj minutes2 take out the onion and bunch of herbs1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #c hours to simmer4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,haricot ,,mutton 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gah4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold neck or loin of mutton1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c onions1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of good gravy1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of port wine1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #b carrots1 #b turnips1 #a head of celery4 ,mode4--,cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops1 and take off the fat2 slice the onions1 and fry them with the chops1 in a little butter1 of a nice brown colour2 stir in the flour1 add the gravy1 and let it stew gently nearly an hour4 ,in the mean time boil the vegetables until nearly tender1 slice them1 and add them to the mutton about #a_/d hour before it is to be served4 ,season with pepper and salt1 add the ketchup and port wine1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #i;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,hashed ,,mutton4 #gai4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton1 #f whole peppers1 #f whole allspice1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a_/b head of celery1 #a onion1 #b oz4 of butter1 flour4 ,mode4--,cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones1 trimming off all superfluous fat and gristle2 chop the bones and fragments of the joint1 put them into a stewpan with the pepper1 spice1 herbs1 and celery2 cover with water1 and simmer for #a hour4 ,slice and fry the onion of a nice pale-brown colour1 dredge in a little flour to make it thick1 and add this to the bones1 c4 ,stew for #a_/d hour1 strain the gravy1 and let it cool2 then skim off every particle of fat1 and put it1 with the meat1 into a stewpan4 ,flavour with ketchup1 ,harvey's sauce2 tomato sauce1 or any flavouring that may be preferred1 and let the meat gradually warm through1 but not boil1 or it will harden4 ,to hash meat properly1 it should be laid in cold gravy1 and only left on the fire just long enough to warm through4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to simmer the gravy4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,hashed ,,mutton4--,many persons express a decided aversion to hashed mutton2 and1 doubtless1 this dislike has arisen from the fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served with this dish4 ,if properly done1 however1 the meat tender 7it ought to be as tender as when first roasted71 the gravy abundant and well flavoured1 and the sippets nicely toasted1 and the whole served neatly2 then1 hashed mutton is by no means to be despised1 and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than the cold leg or shoulder1 of which fathers and husbands1 and their bachelor friends1 stand in such natural awe4 ,,hodge-,,podge 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gbj4 ,,ingredients4--,about #a lb4 of underdone cold mutton1 #b lettuces1 #a pint of green peas1 #e or #f green onions1 #b oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/b teacupful of water4 ,mode4--,mince the mutton1 and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices4 ,put these in a stewpan1 with all the ingredients except the peas1 and let these simmer very gently for #c_/d hour1 keeping them well stirred4 ,boil the peas separately1 mix these with the mutton1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from the end of ,may to ,august4 ,,irish ,,stew4 ,i4 #gba4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of the loin or neck of mutton1 #e lbs4 of potatoes1 #e large onions1 pepper and salt to taste1 rather more than #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neck of mutton1 and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness4 ,pare and halve the potatoes1 and cut the onions into thick slices4 ,put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan1 then a layer of mutton and onions1 and season with pepper and salt2 proceed in this manner until the stewpan is full1 taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top4 ,pour in the water1 and let it stew very gently for #b-a_/b hours1 keeping the lid of the stewpan closely shut the whole time1 and occasionally shaking it to prevent its burning4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #bs4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,more suitable for a winter dish4 ,,ii4 #gbb4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c lbs4 of the breast of mutton1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 salt and pepper to taste1 #d lbs4 of potatoes1 #d large onions4 ,mode4--,put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt1 and let it stew gently for an hour2 cut the meat into small pieces1 skim the fat from the gravy1 and pare and slice the potatoes and onions4 ,put all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers1 first a layer of vegetables1 then one of meat1 and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and salt between each layer2 cover closely1 and let the whole stew very gently for #a hour of rather more1 shaking it frequently to prevent its burning4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a winter dish4 ,note4--,irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above1 but baked in a jar instead of boiled4 ,about #b hours or rather more in a moderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it4 ,,italian ,,mutton ,,cutlets4 #gbc4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c lbs4 of the neck of mutton1 clarified butter1 the yolk of #a egg1 #d tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs1 #a tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #a teaspoonful of minced shalot1 #a saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel2 pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace to taste2 flour1 #a_/b pint of hot broth or water1 #b teaspoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce1 #a teaspoonful of soy1 #b teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar1 #a tablespoonful of port wine4 ,mode4--,cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets1 flatten them1 and trim off some of the fat1 dip them in clarified butter1 and then1 into the beaten yolk of an egg4 ,mix well together bread crumbs1 herbs1 parsley1 shalot1 lemon-peel1 and seasoning in the above proportion1 and cover the cutlets with these ingredients4 ,melt some butter in a frying-pan1 lay in the cutlets1 and fry them a nice brown2 take them1 out1 and keep them hot before the fire4 ,dredge some flour into the pan1 and if there is not sufficient butter1 add a little more2 stir till it looks brown1 then pour in the hot broth or water1 and the remaining ingredients2 give one boil1 and pour round the cutlets4 ,if the gravy should not be thick enough1 add a little more flour4 ,mushrooms1 when obtainable1 are a great improvement to this dish1 and when not in season1 mushroom-powder may be substituted for them4 ,time4--#aj minutes2--rather longer1 should the cutlets be very thick4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,downs4--,the well-known substance chalk1 which the chemist regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime1 and the microscopist as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals1 forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of ,england4 ,the chalk-hills known as the ,south ,downs start from the bold promontory of ,beachy ,head1 traverse the county of ,sussex from east to west1 and pass through ,hampshire into ,surrey4 ,the ,north ,downs extend from ,godalming1 by ,godstone1 into ,kent1 and terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from ,dover to ,ramsgate4 ,the ,downs are clothed with short verdant turf2 but the layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support trees and shrubs4 ,the hills have rounded summits1 and their smooth1 undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral monuments of the early inhabitants of the country4 ,the coombes and furrows1 which ramify and extend into deep valleys1 appear like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets4 ,from time immemorial1 immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these downs4 ,the herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious2 and whilst the natural healthiness of the climate1 consequent on the dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land1 is eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep1 the arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the ,downs affords the means of a supply of other food1 when the natural produce of the hills fails4 ,the mutton of the ,south-,down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour1 and the wool for its fineness2 but the best specimens of this breed1 when imported from ,england into the ,west ,indies1 become miserably lean in the course of a year or two1 and their woolly fleece gives place to a covering of short1 crisp1 brownish hair4 ,,broiled ,,kidneys 7a ,breakfast or ,supper ,dish74 #gbd4 ,,ingredients4--,sheep kidneys1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,ascertain that the kidneys are fresh1 and cut them open very evenly1 lengthwise1 down to the root1 for should one half be thicker than the other1 one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried1 but do not separate them2 skin them1 and pass a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat1 and broil over a nice clear fire1 placing the inside downwards2 turn them when done enough on one side1 and cook them on the other4 ,remove the skewers1 place the kidneys on a very hot dish1 season with pepper and salt1 and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each2 serve very hot and quickly1 and send very hot plates to table4 ,time4--#f to #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a for each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,a prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape4 ,in this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement4 ,illustration3 ,,kidneys4 ,,fried ,,kidneys4 #gbe4 ,,ingredients4--,kidneys1 butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them1 remove the skin1 and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan4 ,when the butter is melted1 lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards1 and fry them for #g or #h minutes1 turning them when they are half-done4 ,serve on a piece of dry toast1 season with pepper and salt1 and put a small piece of butter in each kidney2 pour the gravy from the pan over them1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#g or #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a kidney to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,roast ,,haunch ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,haunch ,,of ,,mutton4 #gbf4 ,,ingredients4--,haunch of mutton1 a little salt1 flour4 ,mode4--,let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming tainted1 and while hanging dust flour over it1 which keeps off the flies1 and prevents the air from getting to it4 ,if not well hung1 the joint1 when it comes to table1 will neither do credit to the butcher or the cook1 as it will not be tender4 ,wash the outside well1 lest it should have a bad flavour from keeping2 then flour it and put it down to a nice brisk fire1 at some distance1 so that it may gradually warm through4 ,keep continually basting1 and about #a_/b hour before it is served1 draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown4 ,sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat1 pour off the dripping1 add a little boiling water slightly salted1 and strain this over the joint4 ,place a paper ruche on the bone1 and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen to table with it4 ,time4--,about #d hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #h to #aj persons4 ,seasonable4--,in best season from ,september to ,march4 ,,how ,,to ,,buy ,,meat ,,economically4--,if the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner1 there is oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it4 ,it often occurs1 for instance1 that the butcher may have a superfluity of certain joints1 and these he would be glad to get rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as #a;d4 or #a-a_/b;d4 per lb41 and thus1 in a joint of #h or #i lbs41 will be saved enough to buy #b quartern loaves4 ,it frequently happens with many butchers1 that1 in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton1 they have only shoulders left1 and these they will be glad to sell at a reduction4 ,,roast ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 #gbg4 ,,ingredients4--,leg of mutton1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,as mutton1 when freshly killed1 is never tender1 hang it almost as long as it will keep2 flour it1 and put it in a cool airy place for a few days1 if the weather will permit4 ,wash off the flour1 wipe it very dry1 and cut off the shank-bone2 put it down to a brisk clear fire1 dredge with flour1 and keep continually basting the whole time it is cooking4 ,about #bj minutes before serving1 draw it near the fire to get nicely brown2 sprinkle over it a little salt1 dish the meat1 pour off the dripping1 add some boiling water slightly salted1 strain it over the joint1 and serve4 ,time4--,a leg of mutton weighing #aj lbs41 about #b-a_/d or #b-a_/b hours2 one of #g lbs41 about #b hours1 or rather less4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for #f or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time1 but not so good in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton4 #gbh4 ,,ingredients4--,loin of mutton1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,cut and trim off the superfluous fat1 and see that the butcher joints the meat properly1 as thereby much annoyance is saved to the carver1 when it comes to table4 ,have ready a nice clear fire 7it need not be a very wide large one71 put down the meat1 dredge with flour1 and baste well until it is done4 ,make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton1 and serve very hot4 ,illustration3 ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton4 ,time4--,a loin of mutton weighing #f lbs41 #a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rolled ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton 7,very ,excellent74 #gbi4 ,,ingredients4--,about #f lbs4 of a loin of mutton1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pounded allspice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of mace1 #a_/d teaspoonful of nutmeg1 #f cloves1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 #a glass of port wine1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,hang the mutton till tender1 bone it1 and sprinkle over it pepper1 mace1 cloves1 allspice1 and nutmeg in the above proportion1 all of which must be pounded very fine4 ,let it remain for a day1 then make a forcemeat by recipe ,no4 #dag1 cover the meat with it1 and roll and bind it up firmly4 ,half bake it in a slow oven1 let it grow cold1 take off the fat1 and put the gravy into a stewpan2 flour the meat1 put it in the gravy1 and stew it till perfectly tender4 ,now take out the meat1 unbind it1 add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above1 give one boil1 and pour over the meat4 ,serve with red-currant jelly2 and1 if obtainable1 a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy1 will be found a great improvement4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to bake the meat1 #a-a_/b hour to stew gently4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,this joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed1 as here directed1 and plainly roasted4 ,it should be well basted1 and served with a good gravy and currant jelly4 ,,boiled ,,neck ,,of ,,mutton4 #gcj4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of the middle1 or best end of the neck of mutton2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,trim off a portion of the fat1 should there be too much1 and if it is to look particularly nice1 the chine-bone should be sawn down1 the ribs stripped halfway down1 and the ends of the bones chopped off2 this is1 however1 not necessary4 ,put the meat into sufficient boiling water to cover it2 when it boils1 add a little salt and remove all the scum4 ,draw the saucepan to the side of the fire1 and let the water get so cool that the finger may be borne in it2 then simmer very slowly and gently until the meat is done1 which will be in about #a-a_/b hour1 or rather more1 reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer4 ,serve with turnips and caper sauce1 ,no4 #chb1 and pour a little of it over the meat4 ,the turnips should be boiled with the mutton2 and1 when at hand1 a few carrots will also be found an improvement4 ,these1 however1 if very large and thick1 must be cut into long thinnish pieces1 or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready4 ,garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the mutton4 ,time4--#d lbs4 of the neck of mutton1 about #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,poets ,,on ,,sheep4--,the keeping of flocks seems to have been the first employment of mankind2 and the most ancient sort of poetry was probably pastoral4 ,the poem known as the ,pastoral gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the golden age1 who are supposed to have beguiled their time in singing4 ,in all pastorals1 repeated allusions are made to the fleecy flocks1 the milk-white lambs1 and the tender ewes2 indeed1 the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only to that of the shepherds who tend them4 ,the nibbling sheep has ever been a favourite of the poets1 and has supplied them with figures and similes without end4 ,shakspere frequently compares men to sheep4 ,when ,gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of ,henry ,,vi41 the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness2-- ,so flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf3 ,so first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece1 ,and next his throat1 unto the butcher's knife4 ,in the ,two ,gentlemen of ,verona1 we meet with the following humorous comparison3-- ,proteus4 ,the sheep for fodder follow the shepherd1 the shepherd for food follows not the sheep3 thou for wages followest thy master1 thy master for wages follows not thee2 therefore1 thou art a sheep4 ,speed4 ,such another proof will make me cry baa4 ,the descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep4 ,every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in ,thomson's ,seasons3-- ,heavy and dripping1 to the breezy brow ,slow move the harmless race2 where1 as they spread ,their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray1 ,inly disturb'd1 and wond'ring what this wild ,outrageous tumult means1 their loud complaints ,the country fill2 and1 toss'd from rock to rock1 ,incessant bleatings run around the hills4 ,what an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the oft-quoted line from ,gray's ,elegy3-- ,and drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold4 ,from ,dyer's quaint poem of ,the ,fleece we could cull a hundred passages relating to sheep2 but we have already exceeded our space4 ,we cannot1 however1 close this brief notice of the allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets1 without quoting a couple of verses from ,robert ,burns's ,elegy on ,poor ,mailie1 his only pet yowe3-- ,thro' a' the town she troll'd by him2 ,a lang half-mile she could descry him2 ,wi' kindly bleat1 when she did spy him4 ,she ran wi' speed2 ,a friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him ,than ,mailie dead4 ,i wat she was a sheep o' sense4 ,an' could behave hersel' wi' mense2 ,i'll say't1 she never brak a fence1 ,thro' thievish greed4 ,our bardie1 lanely1 keeps the spence1 ,sin' ,mailie's dead4 ,,mutton ,,collops 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gca4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs minced very fine1 #b or #c shalots1 #b or #c oz4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loin of mutton2 sprinkle them with pepper1 salt1 pounded mace1 minced savoury herbs1 and minced shalot2 fry them in butter1 stir in a dessertspoonful of flour1 add the gravy and lemon-juice1 simmer very gently about #e or #g minutes1 and serve immediately4 ,time4--#e to #g minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,mutton ,,cutlets4 ,,mutton ,,cutlets ,,with ,,mashed ,,potatoes4 #gcb4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c lbs4 of the best end of the neck of mutton1 salt and pepper to taste1 mashed potatoes4 ,mode4--,procure a well-hung neck of mutton1 saw off about #c inches of the top of the bones1 and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness4 ,shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone2 beat them flat with a cutlet-chopper1 and scrape quite clean1 a portion of the top of the bone4 ,broil them over a nice clear fire for about #g or #h minutes1 and turn them frequently4 ,have ready some smoothly-mashed white potatoes2 place these in the middle of the dish2 when the cutlets are done1 season with pepper and salt2 arrange them round the potatoes1 with the thick end of the cutlets downwards1 and serve very hot and quickly4 7,see ,coloured ,plate47 ,time4--#g or #h minutes4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #bs4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,cutlets may be served in various ways2 with peas1 tomatoes1 onions1 sauce piquante1 c4 ,,mutton ,,pie 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gcc4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold leg1 loin1 or neck of mutton1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley1 #a teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs2 when liked1 a little minced onion or shalot2 #c or #d potatoes1 #a teacupful of gravy2 crust4 ,mode4--,cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned and mixed with a few herbs2 if the leg is used1 cut it into very thin slices2 if the loin or neck1 into thin cutlets4 ,place some at the bottom of the dish2 season well with pepper1 salt1 mace1 parsley1 and herbs2 then put a layer of potatoes sliced1 then more mutton1 and so on till the dish is full2 add the gravy1 cover with a crust1 and bake for #a hour4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into a very good family pudding1 by cutting the meat into slices1 and putting them into a basin lined with a suet crust4 ,it should be seasoned well with pepper1 salt1 and minced shalot1 covered with a crust1 and boiled for about #c hours4 ,,mutton ,,pie4 #gcd4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of the neck or loin of mutton1 weighed after being boned2 #b kidneys1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b teacupfuls of gravy or water1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley2 when liked1 a little minced onion or shalot2 puff crust4 ,mode4--,bone the mutton1 and cut the meat into steaks all of the same thickness1 and leave but very little fat4 ,cut up the kidneys1 and arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish2 sprinkle over them the minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 pour in the gravy1 and cover with a tolerably good puff crust4 ,bake for #a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer1 should the pie be very large1 and let the oven be rather brisk4 ,a well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust1 and will be found exceedingly good4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #f or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,mutton ,,pudding4 #gce4 ,,ingredients4--,about #b lbs4 of the chump end of the loin of mutton1 weighed after being boned2 pepper and salt to taste1 suet crust made with milk 7see ,pastry71 in the proportion of #f oz4 of suet to each pound of flour2 a very small quantity of minced onion 7this may be omitted when the flavour is not liked74 ,mode4--,cut the meat into rather thin slices1 and season them with pepper and salt2 line the pudding-dish with crust2 lay in the meat1 and nearly1 but do not quite1 fill it up with water2 when the flavour is liked1 add a small quantity of minced onion2 cover with crust1 and proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe ,no4 #fje1 using the same kind of pudding-dish as there mentioned4 ,time4--,about #c hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but more suitable in winter4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,cold ,,neck ,,of ,,mutton 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gcf4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton1 #b oz4 of butter1 a little flour1 #b onions sliced1 #a_/d pint of water1 #b small carrots1 #b turnips1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the mutton into small chops1 and trim off the greater portion of the fat2 put the butter into a stewpan1 dredge in a little flour1 add the sliced onions1 and keep stirring till brown2 then put in the meat4 ,when this is quite brown1 add the water1 and the carrots and turnips1 which should be cut into very thin slices2 season with pepper and salt1 and stew till quite tender1 which will be in about #c_/d hour4 ,when in season1 green peas may be substituted for the carrots and turnips3 they should be piled in the centre of the dish1 and the chops laid round4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable1 with peas1 from ,june to ,august4 ,,roast ,,neck ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,neck ,,of ,,mutton #a-b4 ,best end4 #b-c4 ,scrag4 #gcg4 ,,ingredients4--,neck of mutton2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,for roasting1 choose the middle1 or the best end1 of the neck of mutton1 and if there is a very large proportion of fat1 trim off some of it1 and save it for making into suet puddings1 which will be found exceedingly good4 ,let the bones be cut short and see that it is properly jointed before it is laid down to the fire1 as they will be more easily separated when they come to table4 ,place the joint at a nice brisk fire1 dredge it with flour1 and keep continually basting until done4 ,a few minutes before serving1 draw it nearer the the fire to acquire a nice colour1 sprinkle over it a little salt1 pour off the dripping1 add a little boiling water slightly salted1 strain this over the meat and serve4 ,red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it4 ,time4--#d lbs4 of the neck of mutton1 rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,woollen ,,manufactures4--,the distinction between hair and wool is rather arbitrary than natural1 consisting in the greater or less degrees of fineness1 softness and pliability of the fibres4 ,when the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable to be used as an article of dress1 they are called wool4 ,the sheep1 llama1 ,angora goat1 and the goat of ,thibet1 are the animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained4 ,the finest of all wools is that from the goat of ,thibet1 of which the ,cashmere shawls are made4 ,of ,european wools1 the finest is that yielded by the ,merino sheep1 the ,spanish and ,saxon breeds taking the precedence4 ,the ,merino sheep1 as now naturalized in ,australia1 furnishes an excellent fleece2 but all varieties of sheep-wool1 reared either in ,europe or ,australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in ,india1 and to that of the llama of the ,andes4 ,the best of our ,british wools are inferior in fineness to any of the above-mentioned1 being nearly twelve times the thickness of the finest ,spanish merino2 but for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer1 they are unrivalled4 ,,roast ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 #gch4 ,,ingredients4--,saddle of mutton2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,to insure this joint being tender1 let it hang for ten days or a fortnight1 if the weather permits4 ,cut off the tail and flaps and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten1 and have the skin taken off and skewered on again4 ,put it down to a bright1 clear fire1 and1 when the joint has been cooking for an hour1 remove the skin and dredge it with flour4 ,it should not be placed too near the fire1 as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt4 ,keep constantly basting1 both before and after the skin is removed2 sprinkle some salt over the joint4 ,make a little gravy in the dripping-pan2 pour it over the meat1 which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and red-currant jelly4 ,time4--,a saddle of mutton weighing #aj lbs41 #b-a_/b hours2 #ad lbs41 #c-a_/d hours4 ,when liked underdone1 allow rather less time4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,a moderate-sized saddle of #aj lbs4 for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year2 not so good when lamb is in full season4 ,,roast ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 #gci4 ,,ingredients4--,shoulder of mutton2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,put the joint down to a bright1 clear fire2 flour it well1 and keep continually basting4 ,about #a_/d hour before serving1 draw it near the fire1 that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour1 but not sufficiently near to blacken the fat4 ,sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat1 empty the dripping-pan of its contents1 pour in a little boiling water slightly salted1 and strain this over the joint4 ,onion sauce1 or stewed ,spanish onions1 are usually sent to table with this dish1 and sometimes baked potatoes4 ,time4--,a shoulder of mutton weighing #f or #g lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways2 boiled1 and served with onion sauce2 boned1 and stuffed with a good veal forcemeat2 or baked1 with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan4 ,,the ,,ettrick ,,shepherd4--,james ,hogg was perhaps the most remarkable man that ever wore the maud of a shepherd4 ,under the garb1 aspect1 and bearing of a rude peasant 7and rude enough he was in most of these things1 even after no inconsiderable experience of society71 the world soon discovered a true poet4 ,he taught himself to write1 by copying the letters of a printed book as he lay watching his flock on the hillside1 and believed that he had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he first found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the ewe-milker who partook the shelter of his mantle during the passing storm4 ,if the shepherd of ,professor ,wilson's ,noctes ,ambrosianae may be taken as a true portrait of ,james ,hogg1 we must admit that1 for quaintness of humour1 the poet of ,ettrick ,forest had few rivals4 ,sir ,walter ,scott said that ,hogg's thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more entertainment than the best comedy that ever set the pit in a roar4 ,among the written productions of the shepherd-poet1 is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending1 called ,the ,shepherd's ,calender4 ,this work contains a vast amount of useful information upon sheep1 their diseases1 habits1 and management4 ,the ,ettrick ,shepherd died in #ahce4 ,,sheep',s ,,brains1 ,,en ,,matelote 7an ,entree74 #gdj4 ,,ingredients4--#f sheep's brains1 vinegar1 salt1 a few slices of bacon1 #a small onion1 #b cloves1 a small bunch of parsley1 sufficient stock or weak broth to cover the brains1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 matelote sauce1 ,no4 #eab4 ,mode4--,detach the brains from the heads without breaking them1 and put them into a pan of warm water2 remove the skin1 and let them remain for two hours4 ,have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 add a little vinegar and salt1 and put in the brains4 ,when they are quite firm1 take them out and put them into very cold water4 ,place #b or #c slices of bacon in a stewpan1 put in the brains1 the onion stuck with #b cloves1 the parsley1 and a good seasoning of pepper and salt2 cover with stock1 or weak broth1 and boil them gently for about #be minutes4 ,have ready some crotons2 arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains1 and cover with a matelote sauce1 ,no4 #eab1 to which has been added the above proportion of lemon-juice4 ,time4--#be minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sheep',s ,,feet or ,,trotters 7,soyer's ,recipe74 #gda4 ,,ingredients4--#ab feet1 #a_/d lb4 of beef or mutton suet1 #b onions1 #a carrot1 #b bay-leaves1 #b sprigs of thyme1 #a oz4 of salt1 #a_/d oz4 of pepper1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #b-a_/b quarts of water1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #c_/d teaspoonful of pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 the juice of #a lemon1 #a gill of milk1 the yolks of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,have the feet cleaned1 and the long bone extracted from them4 ,put the suet into a stewpan1 with the onions and carrot sliced1 the bay-leaves1 thyme1 salt1 and pepper1 and let these simmer for #e minutes4 ,add #b tablespoonfuls of flour and the water1 and keep stirring till it boils2 then put in the feet4 ,let these simmer for #c hours1 or until perfectly tender1 and take them and lay them on a sieve4 ,mix together1 on a plate1 with the back of a spoon1 butter1 salt1 flour 7#a teaspoonful71 pepper1 nutmeg1 and lemon-juice as above1 and put the feet1 with a gill of milk1 into a stewpan4 ,when very hot1 add the butter1 c41 and stir continually till melted4 ,now mix the yolks of #b eggs with #e tablespoonfuls of milk2 stir this to the other ingredients1 keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two1 but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added4 ,serve in a very hot dish1 and garnish with crotons1 or sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,sheep',s ,,head4 #gdb4 ,,ingredients4--#a sheep's head1 sufficient water to cover it1 #c carrots1 #c turnips1 #b or #c parsnips1 #c onions1 a small bunch of parsley1 #a teaspoonful of pepper1 #c teaspoonfuls of salt1 #a_/d lb4 of ,scotch oatmeal4 ,mode4--,clean the head well1 and let it soak in warm water for #b hours1 to get rid of the blood2 put it into a saucepan1 with sufficient cold water to cover it1 and when it boils1 add the vegetables1 peeled and sliced1 and the remaining ingredients2 before adding the oatmeal1 mix it to a smooth batter with a little of the liquor4 ,keep stirring till it boils up2 then shut the saucepan closely1 and let it stew gently for #a-a_/b or #b hours4 ,it may be thickened with rice or barley1 but oatmeal is preferable4 ,time4--#a-a_/b or #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,singed ,,sheep',s ,,head4--,the village of ,dudingston1 which stands within a mile of ,edinburgh town1 was formerly celebrated for this ancient and homely ,scottish dish4 ,in the summer months1 many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace themselves over singed sheep's heads1 boiled or baked4 ,the sheep fed upon the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at this village1 and the carcases were sent to town2 but the heads were left to be consumed in the place4 ,we are not aware whether the custom of eating sheep's heads at ,dudingston is still kept up by the good folks of ,edinburgh4 ,,toad-,,in-,,the-,,hole 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gdc4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of flour1 #a pint of milk1 #c eggs1 butter1 a few slices of cold mutton1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b kidneys4 ,mode4--,make a smooth batter of flour1 milk1 and eggs in the above proportion2 butter a baking-dish1 and pour in the batter4 ,into this place a few slices of cold mutton1 previously well seasoned1 and the kidneys1 which should be cut into rather small pieces2 bake about #a hour1 or rather longer1 and send it to table in the dish it was baked in4 ,oysters or mushrooms may be substituted for the kidneys1 and will be found exceedingly good4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,breast ,,of ,,lamb ,,and ,,green ,,peas4 #gdd4 ,,ingredients4--#a breast of lamb1 a few slices of bacon1 #a_/d pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #a lemon1 #a onion1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 green peas4 ,mode4--,remove the skin from a breast of lamb1 put it into a saucepan of boiling water1 and let it simmer for #e minutes4 ,take it out and lay it in cold water4 ,line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of bacon2 lay the lamb on these2 peel the lemon1 cut it into slices1 and put these on the meat1 to keep it white and make it tender2 cover with #a or #b more slices of bacon2 add the stock1 onion1 and herbs1 and set it on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender4 ,have ready some green peas1 put these on a dish1 and place the lamb on the top of these4 ,the appearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb1 and spinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,seasonable1--grass lamb1 from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,the ,,lamb ,,as ,a ,,sacrifice4--,the number of lambs consumed in sacrifices by the ,hebrews must have been very considerable4 ,two lambs of the first year were appointed to be sacrificed daily for the morning and evening sacrifice2 and a lamb served as a substitute for the first-born of unclean animals1 such as the ass1 which could not be accepted as an offering to the ,lord4 ,every year1 also1 on the anniversary of the deliverance of the children of ,israel from the bondage of ,egypt1 every family was ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid1 and to sprinkle some of its blood upon the door-posts1 in commemoration of the judgment of ,god upon the ,egyptians4 ,it was to be eaten roasted1 with unleavened bread and bitter herbs1 in haste1 with the loins girded1 the shoes on the feet1 and the staff in the hand2 and whatever remained until the morning was to be burnt4 ,the sheep was also used in the numerous special1 individual1 and national sacrifices ordered by the ,jewish law4 ,on extraordinary occasions1 vast quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once2 thus ,solomon1 on the completion of the temple1 offered sheep and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude4 ,,stewed ,,breast ,,of ,,lamb4 #gde4 ,,ingredients4--#a breast of lamb1 pepper and salt to taste1 sufficient stock1 ,no4 #aje1 to cover it1 #a glass of sherry1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,skin the lamb1 cut it into pieces1 and season them with pepper and salt2 lay these in a stewpan1 pour in sufficient stock or gravy to cover them1 and stew very gently until tender1 which will be in about #a-a_/b hour4 ,just before serving1 thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour2 add the sherry1 give one boil1 and pour it over the meat4 ,green peas1 or stewed mushrooms1 may be strewed over the meat1 and will be found a very great improvement4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,seasonable1--grass lamb1 from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,lamb ,,chops4 #gdf4 ,,ingredients4--,loin of lamb1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb1 aid cut it into chops about #c_/d inch in thickness4 ,have ready a bright clear fire2 lay the chops on a gridiron1 and broil them of a nice pale brown1 turning them when required4 ,season them with pepper and salt2 serve very hot and quickly1 and garnish with crisped parsley1 or place them on mashed potatoes4 ,asparagus1 spinach1 or peas are the favourite accompaniments to lamb chops4 ,time4--,about #h or #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b chops to each person4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,lamb ,,cutlets ,,and ,,spinach 7an ,entree74 #gdg4 ,,ingredients4--#h cutlets1 egg and bread crumbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 a little clarified butter4 ,mode4--,cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb1 and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone4 ,trim off most of the fat and all the skin1 and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean4 ,brush the cutlets over with egg1 sprinkle them with bread crumbs1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,now dip them into clarified butter1 sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs1 and fry them over a sharp fire1 turning them when required4 ,lay them before the fire to drain1 and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre1 which should be previously well boiled1 drained1 chopped1 and seasoned4 ,time4--,about #g or #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,note4--,peas1 asparagus1 or ,french beans1 may be substituted for the spinach2 or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers1 ,soubise sauce1 c4 c4 ,,lamb',s ,,fry4 #gdh4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of lamb's fry1 #c pints of water1 egg and bread crumbs1 #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,boil the fry for #a_/d hour in the above proportion of water1 take it out and dry it in a cloth2 grate some bread down finely1 mix with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg1 sprinkle over the bread crumbs1 and fry for #e minutes4 ,serve very hot on a napkin in a dish1 and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley4 ,time4-#a hour to simmer the fry1 #e minutes to fry it4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #b or #c persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,hashed ,,lamb ,,and ,,broiled ,,blade-,,bone4 #gdi4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold shoulder of lamb1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 about #a_/b pint of stock or gravy1 #a tablespoonful of shalot vinegar1 #c or #d pickled gherkins4 ,mode4--,take the blade-bone from the shoulder1 and cut the meat into collops as neatly as possible4 ,season the bone with pepper and salt1 pour a little oiled butter over it1 and place it in the oven to warm through4 ,put the stock into a stewpan1 add the ketchup and shalot vinegar1 and lay in the pieces of lamb4 ,let these heat gradually through1 but do not allow them to boil4 ,take the blade-bone out of the oven1 and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown4 ,slice the gherkins1 put them into the hash1 and dish it with the blade-bone in the centre4 ,it may be garnished with croutons or sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable1--house lamb1 from ,christmas to ,march2 grass lamb1 from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,illustration3 ,,fore-,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 ,,roast ,,fore-,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 #gej4 ,,ingredients4--,lamb1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,to obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection1 it should not be long kept2 time to cool is all that it requires2 and though the meat may be somewhat thready1 the juices and flavour will be infinitely superior to that of lamb that has been killed #b or #c days4 ,make up the fire in good time1 that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down4 ,place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning1 and baste it constantly till the moment of serving4 ,lamb should be very thoroughly done without being dried up1 and not the slightest appearance of red gravy should be visible1 as in roast mutton3 this rule is applicable to all young white meats4 ,serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan1 the same as for other roasts1 and send to table with it a tureen of mint sauce1 ,no4 #dfi1 and a fresh salad4 ,a cut lemon1 a small piece of fresh butter1 and a little cayenne1 should also be placed on the table1 so that when the carver separates the shoulder from the ribs1 they may be ready for his use2 if1 however1 he should not be very expert1 we would recommend that the cook should divide these joints nicely before coming to table4 ,time4--,fore-quarter of lamb weighing #aj lbs41 #a-c_/d to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable1--grass lamb1 from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,boiled ,,leg ,,of ,,lamb ,a ,,la ,,bechamel4 #gea4 ,,ingredients4--,leg of lamb1 ,bchamel sauce1 ,no4 #cfg4 ,mode4--,do not choose a very large joint1 but one weighing about #e lbs4 ,have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 into which plunge the lamb1 and when it boils up again1 draw it to the side of the fire1 and let the water cool a little4 ,then stew very gently for about #a-a_/d hour1 reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer4 ,make some ,bchamel by recipe ,no4 #cfg1 dish the lamb1 pour the sauce over it1 and garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots4 ,when liked1 melted butter may be substituted for the ,bchamel3 this is a more simple method1 but not nearly so nice4 ,send to table with it some of the sauce in a tureen1 and boiled cauliflowers or spinach1 with whichever vegetable the dish is garnished4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour after the water simmers4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,roast ,,leg ,,of ,,lamb4 #geb4 ,,ingredients4--,lamb1 a little salt4 ,illustration3 ,,leg ,,of ,,lamb4 ,mode4--,place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first1 and baste well the whole time it is cooking4 ,when nearly done1 draw it nearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour4 ,sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat1 empty the dripping-pan of its contents2 pour in a little boiling water1 and strain this over the meat4 ,serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad1 and for vegetables send peas1 spinach1 or cauliflowers to table with it4 ,time4--,a leg of lamb weighing #e lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,braised ,,loin ,,of ,,lamb4 ,illustration3 ,,loin ,,of ,,lamb4 #gec4 ,,ingredients4--#a loin of lamb1 a few slices of bacon1 #a bunch of green onions1 #e or #f young carrots1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a pint of stock1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,bone a loin of lamb1 and line the bottom of a stewpan just capable of holding it1 with a few thin slices of fat bacon2 add the remaining ingredients1 cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon1 pour in the stock1 and simmer very gently for #b hours2 take it up1 dry it1 strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze1 with which glaze the meat1 and serve it either on stewed peas1 spinach1 or stewed cucumbers4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #aa;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,illustration3 ,,saddle ,,of ,,lamb4 ,,ribs ,,of ,,lamb4 ,,roast ,,saddle ,,of ,,lamb4 #ged4 ,,ingredients4--,lamb2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,this joint is now very much in vogue1 and is generally considered a nice one for a small party4 ,have ready a clear brisk fire2 put down the joint at a little distance1 to prevent the fat from scorching1 and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking4 ,serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad1 and send to table with it1 either peas1 cauliflowers1 or spinach4 ,time4--,a small saddle1 #a-a_/b hour2 a large one1 #b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,note4--,loin and ribs of lamb are roasted in the same manner1 and served with the same sauces as the above4 ,a loin will take about #a-a_/d hour2 ribs1 from #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,,roast ,,shoulder ,,of ,,lamb4 #gee4 ,,ingredients4--,lamb2 a little salt4 ,mode4--,have ready a clear brisk fire1 and put down the joint at a sufficient distance from it1 that the fat may not burn4 ,keep constantly basting until done1 and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan1 and send mint sauce to table with it4 ,peas1 spinach1 or cauliflowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb1 and also a fresh salad4 ,time4--,a shoulder of lamb rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #ajs4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,lamb ,,stuffed4 #gef4 ,,ingredients4--,shoulder of lamb1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 trimmings of veal or beef1 #b onions1 #a_/b head of celery1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 a few slices of fat bacon1 #a quart of stock ,no4 #aje4 ,mode4--,take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb1 fill up its place with forcemeat1 and sew it up with coarse thread4 ,put it into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb1 and add the remaining ingredients4 ,stew very gently for rather more than #b hours4 ,reduce the gravy1 with which glaze the meat1 and serve with peas1 stewed cucumbers1 or sorrel sauce4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,lamb',s ,,sweetbreads1 ,,larded1 ,,and ,,asparagus 7an ,entree74 #geg4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c sweetbreads1 #a_/b pint of veal stock1 white pepper and salt to taste1 a small bunch of green onions1 #a blade of pounded mace1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b eggs1 nearly #a_/b pint of cream1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 a very little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water1 and put them into a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them1 and let them simmer for #aj minutes2 then take them out and put them into cold water4 ,now lard them1 lay them in a stewpan1 add the stock1 seasoning1 onions1 mace1 and a thickening of butter and flour1 and stew gently for #a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,beat up the egg with the cream1 to which add the minced parsley and a very little grated nutmeg4 ,put this to the other ingredients2 stir it well till quite hot1 but do not let it boil after the cream is added1 or it will curdle4 ,have ready some asparagus-tops1 boiled2 add these to the sweetbreads1 and serve4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 to #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient--#c sweetbreads for #a entre4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,another ,,way ,,to ,,dress ,,sweetbreads 7an ,entree74 #geh4 ,,ingredients4--,sweetbreads1 egg and bread crumbs1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 ,no4 #ddb1 #a_/b glass of sherry4 ,mode4--,soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour1 and throw them into boiling water to render them firm4 ,let them stew gently for about #a_/d hour1 take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the water from them4 ,brush them over with egg1 sprinkle them with bread crumbs1 and either brown them in the oven or before the fire4 ,have ready the above quantity of gravy1 to which add #a_/b glass of sherry2 dish the sweetbreads1 pour the gravy under them1 and garnish with water-cresses4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 to #cs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient--#c sweetbreads for #a entre4 ,seasonable from ,easter to ,michaelmas4 ,,mutton ,,and ,,lamb ,,carving4 ,,haunch ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,haunch ,,of ,,mutton4 #gei4 ,a deep cut should1 in the first place1 be made quite down to the bone1 across the knuckle-end of the joint1 along the line #a to #b4 ,this will let the gravy escape2 and then it should be carved1 in not too thick slices1 along the whole length of the haunch1 in the direction of the line from #d to #c4 ,illustration3 ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 #gfj4 ,this homely1 but capital ,english joint1 is almost invariably served at table as shown in the engraving4 ,the carving of it is not very difficult3 the knife should be carried sharply down in the direction of the line from #a to #b1 and slices taken from either side1 as the guests may desire1 some liking the knuckle-end1 as well done1 and others preferring the more underdone part4 ,the fat should be sought near the line #c to #d4 ,some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished with the under-side uppermost1 so as to get at the finely-grained meat lying under that part of the meat1 known as the ,pope's eye2 but this is an extravagant fashion1 and one that will hardly find favour in the eyes of many economical ,british housewives and housekeepers4 ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton4 #gfa4 ,there is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton which includes every other2 that is1 that the joint should be thoroughly well jointed by the butcher before it is cooked4 ,this knack of jointing requires practice and the proper tools2 and no one but the butcher is supposed to have these4 ,if the bones be not well jointed1 the carving of a loin of mutton is not a gracious business2 whereas1 if that has been attended to1 it is an easy and untroublesome task4 ,the knife should be inserted at fig4 #a1 and after feeling your way between the bones1 it should be carried sharply in the direction of the line #a to #b4 ,as there are some people who prefer the outside cut1 while others do not like it1 the question as to their choice of this should be asked4 ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton4 #gfb4 ,although we have heard1 at various intervals1 growlings expressed at the inevitable saddle of mutton at the dinner-parties of our middle classes1 yet we doubt whether any other joint is better liked1 when it has been well hung and artistically cooked4 ,there is a diversity of opinion respecting the mode of sending this joint to table2 but it has only reference to whether or no there shall be any portion of the tail1 or1 if so1 how many joints of the tail4 ,we ourselves prefer the mode as shown in our coloured illustration ,o2 but others may1 upon equally good grounds1 like the way shown in the engraving on this page4 ,some trim the tail with a paper frill4 ,the carving is not difficult3 it is usually cut in the direction of the line from #b to #a1 quite down to the bones1 in evenly-sliced pieces4 ,a fashion1 however1 patronized by some1 is to carve it obliquely1 in the direction of the line from #d to #c2 in which case the joint would be turned round the other way1 having the tail end on the right of the carver4 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 ,illustration3 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 #gfc4 ,this is a joint not difficult to carve4 ,the knife should be drawn from the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line from #a to #b1 until the bone of the shoulder is reached4 ,as many slices as can be carved in this manner should be taken1 and afterwards the meat lying on either side of the blade-bone should be served1 by carving in the direction of #c to #d and #c to #d4 ,the uppermost side of the shoulder being now finished1 the joint should be turned1 and slices taken off along its whole length4 ,there are some who prefer this under-side of the shoulder for its juicy flesh1 although the grain of the meat is not so fine as that on the other side4 ,,fore-,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 ,illustration3 ,,fore-,,quarter ,,of ,,lamb4 #gfd4 ,we always think that a good and practised carver delights in the manipulation of this joint1 for there is a little field for his judgment and dexterity which does not always occur4 ,the separation of the shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to2 this is done by passing the knife lightly round the dotted line1 as shown by the figures #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 and #e1 so as to cut through the skin1 and then1 by raising with a little force the shoulder1 into which the fork should be firmly fixed1 it will come away with just a little more exercise of the knife4 ,in dividing the shoulder and breast1 the carver should take care not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter1 as that would rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed4 ,the breast and shoulder being separated1 it is usual to lay a small piece of butter1 and sprinkle a little cayenne1 lemon-juice1 and salt between them2 and when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy1 the shoulder may1 as more convenient1 be removed into another dish4 ,the1 next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket1 by cutting through the meat on the line #e to #f4 ,the joint is then ready to be served to the guests2 the ribs being carved in the direction of the lines from #i to #aj1 and the brisket from #g to #h4 ,the carver should ask those at the table what parts they prefer-ribs1 brisket1 or a piece of the shoulder4 ,,leg ,,of ,,lamb1 ,,loin ,,of ,,lamb1 ,,saddle ,,of ,,lamb1 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,lamb1 are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of mutton4 7,see ,nos4 #gfj1 #gfa1 #gfb1 #gfc47 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,common ,,hog4 #gfe4 ,,the ,,hog belongs to the order ,mammalia1 the genus ,sus scrofa1 and the species ,pachydermata1 or thick-skinned2 and its generic characters are1 a small head1 with long flexible snout truncated2 #db teeth1 divided into #d upper incisors1 converging1 #f lower incisors1 projecting1 #b upper and #b lower canine1 or tusks1--the former short1 the latter projecting1 formidable1 and sharp1 and #ad molars in each jaw2 cloven feet furnished with #d toes1 and tail1 small1 short1 and twisted2 while1 in some varieties1 this appendage is altogether wanting4 #gff4 ,,from ,,the ,,number ,,and ,,position ,,of ,,the ,,teeth1 physiologists are enabled to define the nature and functions of the animal2 and from those of the ,sus1 or hog1 it is evident that he is as much a grinder as a biter1 or can live as well on vegetable as on animal food2 though a mixture of both is plainly indicated as the character of food most conducive to the integrity and health of its physical system4 #gfg4 ,,thus ,,the ,,pig ,,tribe1 though not a ruminating mammal1 as might be inferred from the number of its molar teeth1 is yet a link between the herbivorous and the carnivorous tribes1 and is consequently what is known as an omnivorous quadruped2 or1 in other words1 capable of converting any kind of aliment into nutriment4 #gfh4 ,,though ,,the ,,hoof ,,in ,,the ,,hog is1 as a general rule1 cloven1 there are several remarkable exceptions1 as in the species native to ,norway1 ,illyria1 ,sardinia1 and formerly to the ,berkshire variety of the ,british domesticated pig1 in which the hoof is entire and uncleft4 #gfi4 ,,whatever ,,difference ,,in ,,its ,,physical ,,nature1 climate and soil may produce in this animal1 his functional characteristics are the same in whatever part of the world he may be found2 and whether in the trackless forests of ,south ,america1 the coral isles of ,polynesia1 the jungles of ,india1 or the spicy brakes of ,sumatra1 he is everywhere known for his gluttony1 laziness1 and indifference to the character and quality of his food4 ,and though he occasionally shows an epicure's relish for a succulent plant or a luscious carrot1 which he will discuss with all his salivary organs keenly excited1 he will1 the next moment1 turn with equal gusto to some carrion offal that might excite the forbearance of the unscrupulous cormorant4 ,it is this coarse and repulsive mode of feeding that has1 in every country and language1 obtained for him the opprobrium of being an unclean animal4 #ggj4 ,,in ,,the ,,mosaical ,,law1 the pig is condemned as an unclean beast1 and consequently interdicted to the ,israelites1 as unfit for human food4 ,and the swine1 though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed1 yet he cheweth not the cud4 ,he is unclean to you4--,lev4 xi4 #g4 ,strict1 however1 as the law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-divided animals1 the ,jews1 with their usual perversity and violation of the divine commands1 seem afterwards to have ignored the prohibition2 for1 unless they ate pork1 it is difficult to conceive for what purpose they kept troves of swine1 as from the circumstance recorded in ,matthew xviii4 #cb1 when ,jesus was in ,galilee1 and the devils1 cast out of the two men1 were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were feeding on the hills in the neighbourhood of the ,sea of ,tiberias1 it is very evident they did4 ,there is only one interpretation by which we can account for a prohibition that debarred the ,jews from so many foods which we regard as nutritious luxuries1 that1 being fat and the texture more hard of digestion than other meats1 they were likely1 in a hot dry climate1 where vigorous exercise could seldom be taken1 to produce disease1 and especially cutaneous affections2 indeed1 in this light1 as a code of sanitary ethics1 the book of ,leviticus is the most admirable system of moral government ever conceived for man's benefit4 #gga4 ,,setting ,,his ,,coarse ,,feeding ,,and ,,slovenly ,,habits ,,out ,,of ,,the ,,question1 there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as the much-maligned pig1 or any that yields him a more varied or more luxurious repast4 ,the prolific powers of the pig are extraordinary1 even under the restraint of domestication2 but when left to run wild in favourable situations1 as in the islands of the ,south ,pacific1 the result1 in a few years1 from two animals put on shore and left undisturbed1 is truly surprising2 for they breed so fast1 and have such numerous litters1 that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews1 they would degenerate into vermin4 ,in this country the pig has usually two litters1 or farrows1 in a year1 the breeding seasons being ,april and ,october2 and the period the female goes with her young is about four months1--#af weeks or #abb days4 ,the number produced at each litter depends upon the character of the breed2 #ab being the average number in the small variety1 and #aj in the large2 in the mixed breeds1 however1 the average is between #aj and #ae1 and in some instances has reached as many as #bj4 ,but however few1 or however many1 young pigs there may be to the farrow1 there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle1 a poor1 little1 shrivelled1 half-starved anatomy1 with a small melancholy voice1 a staggering gait1 a woe-begone countenance1 and a thread of a tail1 whose existence the complacent mother ignores1 his plethoric brothers and sisters repudiate1 and for whose emaciated jaws there is never a spare or supplemental teat1 till one of the favoured gormandizers1 overtaken by momentary oblivion1 drops the lacteal fountain1 and gives the little squeaking straggler the chance of a momentary mouthful4 ,this miserable little object1 which may be seen bringing up the rear of every litter1 is called the ,tony pig1 or the ,anthony2 so named1 it is presumed1 from being the one always assigned to the ,church1 when tithe was taken in kind2 and as ,st4 ,anthony was the patron of husbandry1 his name was given in a sort of bitter derision to the starveling that constituted his dues2 for whether there are ten or fifteen farrows to the litter1 the ,anthony is always the last of the family to come into the world4 #ggb4 ,,from ,,the ,,grossness ,,of ,,his ,,feeding1 the large amount of aliment he consumes1 his gluttonous way of eating it1 from his slothful habits1 laziness1 and indulgence in sleep1 the pig is particularly liable to disease1 and especially indigestion1 heartburn1 and affections of the skin4 #ggc4 ,,to ,,counteract ,,the ,,consequence ,,of ,a ,,violation ,,of ,,the ,,physical ,,laws1 a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to seek for relief and medicine4 ,to open the pores of his skin1 blocked up with mud1 and excite perspiration1 he resorts to a tree1 a stump1 or his trough--anything rough and angular1 and using it as a curry-comb to his body1 obtains the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticular evaporation2 he next proceeds with his long supple snout to grub up antiscorbutic roots1 cooling salads of mallow and dandelion1 and1 greatest treat of all1 he stumbles on a piece of chalk or a mouthful of delicious cinder1 which1 he knows by instinct1 is the most sovereign remedy in the world for that hot1 unpleasant sensation he has had all the morning at his stomach4 #ggd4 ,,it ,,is ,a ,,remarkable ,,fact that1 though every one who keeps a pig knows how prone he is to disease1 how that disease injures the quality of the meat1 and how eagerly he pounces on a bit of coal or cinder1 or any coarse dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which he lives1 and by affording soda to his system1 correct the vitiated fluids of his body1--yet very few have the judgment to act on what they see1 and by supplying the pig with a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty1 save the necessity of his rooting for what is so needful to his health4 ,instead of this1 however1 and without supplying the animal with what its instinct craves for1 his nostril is bored with a red-hot iron1 and a ring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to be absolutely necessary for his health2 and ignoring the fact that1 in a domestic state at least1 the pig lives on the richest of all food1--scraps of cooked animal substances1 boiled vegetables1 bread1 and other items1 given in that concentrated essence of aliment for a quadruped called wash1 and that he eats to repletion1 takes no exercise1 and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating1 and then1 when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which would obviate the evil of such a forcing diet1 his keeper1 instead of meeting his animal instinct by human reason1 and giving him what he seeks1 has the inhumanity to torture him by a ring1 that1 keeping up a perpetual raw in the pig's snout1 prevents his digging for those corrective drugs which would remove the evils of his artificial existence4 #gge4 ,,though ,,subject ,,to ,,so ,,many ,,diseases1 no domestic animal is more easily kept in health1 cleanliness1 and comfort1 and this without the necessity of ringing1 or any excessive desire of the hog to roam1 break through his sty1 or plough up his pound4 ,whatever the kind of food may be on which the pig is being fed or fattened1 a teaspoonful or more of salt should always be given in his mess of food1 and a little heap of well-burnt cinders1 with occasional bits of chalk1 should always be kept by the side of his trough1 as well as a vessel of clean water3 his pound1 or the front part of his sty1 should be totally free from straw1 the brick flooring being every day swept out and sprinkled with a layer of sand4 ,his lair1 or sleeping apartment1 should be well sheltered by roof and sides from cold1 wet1 and all changes of weather1 and the bed made up of a good supply of clean straw1 sufficiently deep to enable the pig to burrow his unprotected body beneath it4 ,all the refuse of the garden1 in the shape of roots1 leaves1 and stalks1 should be placed in a corner of his pound or feeding-chamber1 for the delectation of his leisure moments2 and once a week1 on the family washing-day1 a pail of warm soap-suds should be taken into his sty1 and1 by means of a scrubbing-brush and soap1 his back1 shoulders1 and flanks should be well cleaned1 a pail of clean warm water being thrown over his body at the conclusion1 before he is allowed to retreat to his clean straw to dry himself4 ,by this means1 the excessive nutrition of his aliment will be corrected1 a more perfect digestion insured1 and1 by opening the pores of the skin1 a more vigorous state of health acquired than could have been obtained under any other system4 #ggf4 ,,we ,,have ,,already ,,said that no other animal yields man so many kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the flesh of the hog differently prepared2 for almost every part of the animal1 either fresh1 salted1 or dried1 is used for food2 and even those viscera not so employed are of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view4 #ggg4 ,,though ,,destitute ,,of ,,the ,,hide1 ,,horns1 ,,and ,,hoofs1 constituting the offal of most domestic animals1 the pig is not behind the other mammalia in its usefulness to man4 ,its skin1 especially that of the boar1 from its extreme closeness of texture1 when tanned1 is employed for the seats of saddles1 to cover powder1 shot1 and drinking-flasks2 and the hair1 according to its colour1 flexibility1 and stubbornness1 is manufactured into tooth1 nail1 and hairbrushes1--others into hat1 clothes1 and shoe-brushes2 while the longer and finer qualities are made into long and short brooms and painters' brushes2 and a still more rigid description1 under the name of bristles1 are used by the shoemaker as needles for the passage of his wax-end4 ,besides so many benefits and useful services conferred on man by this valuable animal1 his fat1 in a commercial sense1 is quite as important as his flesh1 and brings a price equal to the best joints in the carcase4 ,this fat is rendered1 or melted out of the caul1 or membrane in which it is contained1 by boiling water1 and1 while liquid1 run into prepared bladders1 when1 under the name of lard1 it becomes an article of extensive trade and value4 #ggh4 ,,of ,,the ,,numerous ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,domesticated ,,hog1 the following list of breeds may be accepted as the best1 presenting severally all those qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock1 as affecting both the breeder and the consumer4 ,native--,berkshire1 ,essex1 ,york1 and ,cumberland2 ,foreign--the ,chinese4 ,before1 however1 proceeding with the consideration of the different orders1 in the series we have placed them1 it will be necessary to make a few remarks relative to the pig generally4 ,in the first place1 the ,black ,pig is regarded by breeders as the best and most eligible animal1 not only from the fineness and delicacy of the skin1 but because it is less affected by the heat in summer1 and far less subject to cuticular disease than either the white or brindled hog1 but more particularly from its kindlier nature and greater aptitude to fatten4 #ggi4 ,,the ,,great ,,quality ,,first ,,sought ,,for ,,in ,a ,,hog is a capacious stomach1 and next1 a healthy power of digestion2 for the greater the quantity he can eat1 and the more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten1 the more quickly will he fatten2 and the faster he can be made to increase in flesh1 without a material increase of bone1 the better is the breed considered1 and the more valuable the animal4 ,in the usual order of nature1 the development of flesh and enlargement of bone proceed together2 but here the object is to outstrip the growth of the bones by the quicker development of their fleshy covering4 #ghj4 ,,the ,,chief ,,points ,,sought ,,for ,,in ,,the ,,choice ,,of ,a ,,hog are breadth of chest1 depth of carcase1 width of loin1 chine1 and ribs1 compactness of form1 docility1 cheerfulness1 and general beauty of appearance4 ,the head in a well-bred hog must not be too long1 the forehead narrow and convex1 cheeks full1 snout fine1 mouth small1 eyes small and quick1 ears short1 thin1 and sharp1 pendulous1 and pointing forwards2 neck full and broad1 particularly on the top1 where it should join very broad shoulders2 the ribs1 loin1 and haunch should be in a uniform line1 and the tail well set1 neither too high nor too low2 at the same time the back is to be straight or slightly curved1 the chest deep1 broad1 and prominent1 the legs short and thick2 the belly1 when well fattened1 should nearly touch the ground1 the hair be long1 thin1 fine1 and having few bristles1 and whatever the colour1 uniform1 either white1 black1 or blue2 but not spotted1 speckled1 brindled1 or sandy4 ,such are the features and requisites that1 among breeders and judges1 constitute the beau idal of a perfect pig4 ,illustration3 ,,berkshire ,,sow4 #gha4 ,,the ,,berkshire ,,pig ,,is ,,the ,,best ,,known ,,and ,,most ,,esteemed of all our ,english domestic breeds1 and so highly is it regarded1 that even the varieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breed itself4 ,the characteristics of the ,berkshire hog are that it has a tawny colour1 spotted with black1 large ears hanging over the eyes1 a thick1 close1 and well-made body1 legs short and small in the bone2 feeds up to a great weight1 fattens quickly1 and is good either for pork or bacon4 ,the ,new or ,improved ,berkshire possesses all the above qualities1 but is infinitely more prone to fatten1 while the objectionable colour has been entirely done away with1 being now either all white or completely black4 ,illustration3 ,,essex ,,sow4 #ghb4 ,,next ,,to ,,the ,,former1 ,,the ,,essex takes place in public estimation1 always competing1 and often successfully1 with the ,berkshire4 ,the peculiar characters of the ,essex breed are that it is tip-eared1 has a long sharp head1 is roach-backed1 with a long flat body1 standing high on the legs2 is rather bare of hair1 is a quick feeder1 has an enormous capacity of stomach and belly1 and an appetite to match its receiving capability4 ,its colour is white1 or else black and white1 and it has a restless habit and an unquiet disposition4 ,the present valuable stock has sprung from a cross between the common native animal and either the ,white ,chinese or ,black ,neapolitan breeds4 ,illustration3 ,,yorkshire ,,sow4 #ghc4 ,,the ,,yorkshire1 ,,called ,,also ,,the ,,old ,,lincolnshire1 was at one time the largest stock of the pig family in ,england1 and perhaps1 at that time1 the worst4 ,it was long-legged1 weak in the loins1 with coarse white curly hair1 and flabby flesh4 ,now1 however1 it has undergone as great a change as any breed in the kingdom1 and by judicious crossing has become the most valuable we possess1 being a very well-formed pig throughout1 with a good head1 a pleasant docile countenance1 with moderate-sized drooping ears1 a broad back1 slightly curved1 large chine and loins1 with deep sides1 full chest1 and well covered with long thickly-set white hairs4 ,besides these qualities of form1 he is a quick grower1 feeds fast1 and will easily make from #bj to #be stone before completing his first year4 ,the quality of the meat is also uncommonly good1 the fat and lean being laid on in almost equal proportions4 ,so capable is this species of development1 both in flesh and stature1 that examples of the ,yorkshire breed have been exhibited weighing as much as a ,scotch ox4 ,illustration3 ,,cumberland ,,sow4 #ghd4 ,,though ,,almost ,,every ,,country ,,in ,,england can boast some local variety or other of this useful animal1 obtained from the native stock by crossing with some of the foreign kinds1 ,cumberland and the north-west parts of the kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of white pigs1 with a thick1 compact1 and well-made body1 short in the legs1 the head and back well formed1 ears slouching and a little downwards1 and on the whole1 a hardy1 profitable animal1 and one well disposed to fatten4 #ghe4 ,,there ,,is ,,no ,,variety ,,of ,,this ,,useful ,,animal that presents such peculiar features as the species known to us as the ,chinese pig2 and as it is the general belief that to this animal and the ,neapolitan hog we are indebted for that remarkable improvement which has taken place in the breeds of the ,english pig1 it is necessary to be minute in the description of this1 in all respects1 singular animal4 ,the ,chinese1 in the first place1 consists of many varieties1 and presents as many forms of body as differences of colour2 the best kind1 however1 has a beautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy2 the hair too is perfectly white1 and thinly set over the body1 with here and there a few bristles4 ,he has a broad snout1 short head1 eyes bright and fiery1 very small fine pink ears1 wide cheeks1 high chine1 with a neck of such immense thickness1 that when the animal is fat it looks like an elongated carcase1--a mass of fat1 without shape or form1 like a feather pillow4 ,the belly is dependent1 and almost trailing on the ground1 the legs very short1 and the tail so small as to be little more than a rudiment4 ,it has a ravenous appetite1 and will eat anything that the wonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest2 and to that capability1 there seems no limit in the whole range of animal or vegetable nature4 ,the consequence of this perfect and singularly rapid digestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity1 a process of fattening that1 once commenced1 goes on with such rapid development1 that1 in a short time1 it loses all form1 depositing such an amount of fat1 that it in fact ceases to have any refuse part or offal1 and1 beyond the hair on its back and the callous extremity of the snout1 the whole carcase is eatable4 ,illustration3 ,,chinese ,,sow4 #ghf4 ,,when ,,judiciously ,,fed ,,on ,,vegetable ,,diet1 and this obese tendency checked1 the flesh of the ,chinese pig is extremely delicate and delicious2 but when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food1 it becomes oily1 coarse1 and unpleasant4 ,perhaps there is no other instance in nature where the effect of rapid and perfect digestion is so well shown as in this animal1 which thrives on everything1 and turns to the benefit of its physical economy1 food of the most opposite nature1 and of the most unwholesome and offensive character4 ,when fully fattened1 the thin cuticle1 that is one of its characteristics1 cracks1 from the adipose distension beneath1 exposing the fatty mass1 which discharges a liquid oil from the adjacent tissues4 ,the great fault in this breed is the remarkably small quantity of lean laid down1 to the immense proportion of fat4 ,some idea of the growth of this species may be inferred from the fact of their attaining to #ah stone before two years1 and when further advanced1 as much as #dj stone4 ,in its pure state1 except for roasters1 the ,chinese pig is too disproportionate for the ,english market2 but when crossed with some of our lean stock1 the breed becomes almost invaluable4 ,illustration3 ,,westphalian ,,boar4 #ghg4 ,,the ,,wild ,,boar is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than the domesticated hog2 he is longer in the snout1 has his ears shorter and his tusks considerably longer1 very frequently measuring as much as #aj inches4 ,they are extremely sharp1 and are bent in an upward circle4 ,unlike his domestic brother1 who roots up here and there1 or wherever his fancy takes1 the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines or furrows4 ,the boar1 when selected as the parent of a stock1 should have a small head1 be deep and broad in the chest2 the chine should be arched1 the ribs and barrel well rounded1 with the haunches falling full down nearly to the hock2 and he should always be more compact and smaller than the female4 ,the colour of the wild boar is always of a uniform hue1 and generally of an iron grey2 shading off into a black4 ,the hair of the boar is of considerable length1 especially about the head and mane2 he stands1 in general1 from #bj to #cj inches in height at the shoulders1 though instances have occurred where he has reached #db inches4 ,the young are of a pale yellowish tint1 irregularly brindled with light brown4 ,the boar of ,germany is a large and formidable animal1 and the hunting of him1 with a small species of mastiff1 is still a national sport4 ,from living almost exclusively on acorns and nuts1 his flesh is held in great esteem1 and in ,westphalia his legs are made into hams by a process which1 it is said1 enhances the flavour and quality of the meat in a remarkable degree4 #ghh4 ,,there ,,are ,,two ,,points to be taken into consideration by all breeders of pigs--to what ultimate use is the flesh to be put2 for1 if meant to be eaten fresh1 or simply salted1 the small breed of pigs is host suited for the purpose2 if for hams or bacon1 the large variety of the animal is necessary4 ,pigs are usually weaned between six and eight weeks after birth1 after which they are fed on soft food1 such as mashed potatoes in skimmed or butter-milk4 ,the general period at which the small hogs are killed for the market is from #ab to #af weeks2 from #d to #e mouths1 they are called store pigs1 and are turned out to graze till the animal has acquired its full stature4 ,as soon as this point has been reached1 the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible2 he should therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard1 and shut up on boiled potatoes1 buttermilk1 and peas-meal1 after a time to be followed by grains1 oil-cake1 wash1 barley1 and ,indian meal2 supplying his sty at the same time with plenty of water1 cinders1 and a quantity of salt in every mess of food presented to him4 #ghi4 ,,the ,,estimated ,,number ,,of ,,pigs ,,in ,,great ,,britain is supposed to exceed #bj millions2 and1 considering the third of the number as worth #b apiece1 and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of #ajs4 each1 would give a marketable estimate of over #bj1jjj1jjj for this animal alone4 #gij4 ,,the ,,best ,,and ,,most ,,humane ,,mode ,,of ,,killing ,,all ,,large ,,hogs is to strike them down like a bullock1 with the pointed end of a poleaxe1 on the forehead1 which has the effect of killing the animal at once2 all the butcher has then to do1 is to open the aorta and great arteries1 and laying the animal's neck over a trough1 let out the blood as quickly as possible4 ,the carcase is then to be scalded1 either on a board or by immersion in a tub of very hot water1 and all the hair and dirt rapidly scraped off1 till the skin is made perfectly white1 when it is hung up1 opened1 and dressed1 as it is called1 in the usual way4 ,it is then allowed to cool1 a sheet being thrown around the carcase1 to prevent the air from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin4 ,when meant for bacon1 the hair is singed instead of being scalded off4 #gia4 ,,in ,,the ,,country1 where for ordinary consumption the pork killed for sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the ,london consumer1 it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean1 and1 salting that1 roast what remains of the joint4 ,pork goes further1 and is consequently a more economical food than other meats1 simply because the texture is closer1 and there is less waste in the cooking1 either in roasting or boiling4 #gib4 ,,in ,,fresh ,,pork1 the leg is the most economical family joint1 and the loin the richest4 #gic4 ,,comparatively ,,speaking1 very little difference exists between the weight of the live and dead pig1 and this1 simply because there is neither the head nor the hide to be removed4 ,it has been proved that pork loses in cooking #ac-a_/b1 per cent4 of its weight4 ,a salted hand weighing #d lbs4 #e oz4 lost in the cooking #aa oz42 after cooking1 the meat weighing only #c lbs4 #a oz41 and the bone #i oz4 ,the original cost was #g-a_/b;d4 a pound2 but by this deduction1 the cost rose to #i;d4 per pound with the bone1 and #aj-a_/d;d4 without it4 #gid4 ,,pork1 ,,to ,,be ,,preserved1 is cured in several ways1--either by covering it with salt1 or immersing it in ready-made brine1 where it is kept till required2 or it is only partially salted1 and then hung up to dry1 when the meat is called white bacon2 or1 after salting1 it is hung in wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from the wood4 ,the ,wiltshire bacon1 which is regarded as the finest in the kingdom1 is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large wooden troughs1 and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered bay-salt1 made hot in a frying-pan4 ,this process is repeated for four days2 they are then left for three weeks1 merely turning the flitches every other day4 ,after that time they are hung up to dry4 ,the hogs usually killed for purposes of bacon in ,england average from #ah to #bj stone2 on the other hand1 the hogs killed in the country for farm-house purposes1 seldom weigh less than #bf stone4 ,the legs of boars1 hogs1 and1 in ,germany1 those of bears1 are prepared differently1 and called hams4 #gie4 ,,the ,,practice ,,in ,,vogue ,,formerly in this country was to cut out the hams and cure them separately2 then to remove the ribs1 which were roasted as spare-ribs1 and1 curing the remainder of the side1 call it a gammon of bacon4 ,small pork to cut for table in joints1 is cut up1 in most places throughout the kingdom1 as represented in the engraving4 ,the sale is divided with nine ribs to the fore quarter2 and the following is an enumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters3-- #a4 ,the leg4 ,,hind ,,quarter #b4 ,the loin4 #c4 ,the spring1 or belly4 #d4 ,the hand4 ,,fore ,,quarter #e4 ,the fore-loin4 #f4 ,the cheek4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,of ,a ,,pig1 ,,showing ,,the ,,several ,,joints4 ,the weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may be as follows2 viz43-- ,the leg #h lbs4 ,the loin and spring #g lbs4 ,the hand #f lbs4 ,the chine #g lbs4 ,the cheek from #b to #c lbs4 ,of a bacon pig1 the legs are reserved for curing1 and when cured are called hams3 when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade and bones and cured1 it is called bacon4 ,the bones1 with part of the meat left on them1 are divided into spare-ribs1 griskins1 and chines4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,pork ,,cutlets 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #gif4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast loin of pork1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b onions1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard4 ,mode4--,cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets1 trim off most of the fat1 and chop the onions4 ,put the butter into a stewpan1 lay in the cutlets and chopped onions1 and fry a light brown2 then add the remaining ingredients1 simmer gently for #e or #g minutes1 and serve4 ,time4--#e to #g minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,austrian ,,method ,,of ,,herding ,,pigs4--,in the ,austrian empire there are great numbers of wild swine1 while1 among the wandering tribes peopling the interior of ,hungary1 and spreading over the vast steppes of that country1 droves of swine form a great portion of the wealth of the people1 who chiefly live on a coarse bread and wind-dried bacon4 ,in ,german ,switzerland1 the ,tyrol1 and other mountainous districts of continental ,europe1 though the inhabitants1 almost everywhere1 as in ,england1 keep one or more pigs1 they are at little or no trouble in feeding them1 one or more men being employed by one or several villages as swine-herds2 who1 at a certain hour1 every morning1 call for the pig or pigs1 and driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and in the wood1 take custody of the herd till1 on the approach of night1 they are collected into a compact body and driven home for a night's repose in their several sties4 ,the amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in these mountain regions1 is much more considerable than that usually allowed to this animal1 and the manner in which these immense herds of swine are collected1 and again distributed1 without an accident or mistake1 is a sight both curious and interesting2 for it is all done without the assistance of a dog1 or the aid even of the human voice1 and solely by the crack of the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip1 which the swine-herd carries1 and cracks much after the fashion of the ,french postilion2 and which1 though he frequently cracks1 waking a hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks1 he seldom has to use correctionally2 the animal soon acquiring a thorough knowledge of the meaning of each crack2 and once having felt its leaded thong1 a lasting remembrance of its power4 ,at early dawn1 the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the first village1 and begins flourishing through the misty air his immensely long lash1 keeping a sort of rude time with the crack1 crack1 crack1 crack1 crack1 crack of his whip4 ,the nearest pigs1 hearing the well-remembered sound1 rouse from their straw1 and rush from their sties into the road1 followed by all their litters4 ,as soon as a sufficient number are collected1 the drove is set in motion1 receiving1 right and left1 as they advance1 fresh numbers2 whole communities1 or solitary individuals1 streaming in from all quarters1 and taking their place1 without distinction1 in the general herd2 and1 as if conscious where their breakfast lay1 without wasting a moment on idle investigation1 all eagerly push on to the mountains4 ,in this manner village after village is collected1 till the drove not unfrequently consists of several thousands4 ,the feeding-ground has1 of course1 often to be changed1 and the drove have sometimes to be driven many miles1 and to a considerable height up the mountain1 before the whip gives the signal for the dispersion of the body and the order to feed1 when the herdsman proceeds to form himself a shelter1 and look after his own comfort for the rest of the day4 ,as soon as twilight sets in1 the whip is again heard echoing the signal for muster2 and in the same order in which they were collected1 the swine are driven back1 each group tailing off to its respective sty1 as the herd approaches the villages1 till the last grunter1 having found his home1 the drover seeks his cottage and repose4 ,,pork ,,cutlets ,,or ,,chops4 ,i4 #gig4 ,,ingredients4--,loin of pork1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork1 bone and trim them neatly1 and cut away the greater portion of the fat4 ,season them with pepper2 place the gridiron on the fire2 when quite hot1 lay on the chops and broil them for about #a_/d hour1 turning them #c or #d times2 and be particular that they are thoroughly done1 but not dry4 ,dish them1 sprinkle over a little fine salt1 and serve plain1 or with tomato sauce1 sauce piquante1 or pickled gherkins1 a few of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 for chops4 ,sufficient4--,allow #f for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,ii4 7,another ,way47 #gih4 ,,ingredients4--,loin or fore-loin1 of pork1 egg and bread crumbs1 salt and pepper to taste2 to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow #a_/b teaspoonful of minced sage2 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,cut the cutlets from a loin1 or fore-loin1 of pork2 trim them the same as mutton cutlets1 and scrape the top part of the bone4 ,brush them over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs1 with which have been mixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 drop a little clarified butter on them1 and press the crumbs well down4 ,put the frying-pan on the fire1 put in some lard2 when this is hot1 lay in the cutlets1 and fry them a light brown on both sides4 ,take them out1 put them before the fire to dry the greasy moisture from them1 and dish them on mashed potatoes4 ,serve with them any sauce that may be preferred2 such as tomato sauce1 sauce piquante1 sauce ,robert1 or pickled gherkins4 ,time4--,from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 for chops4 ,sufficient4--,allow #f cutlets for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,note4--,the remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the same manner4 ,,pork ,,cheese 7an ,excellent ,breakfast ,dish74 #gii4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of cold roast pork1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a dessertspoonful of minced parsley1 #d leaves of sage1 a very small bunch of savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 a little nutmeg1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel2 good strong gravy1 sufficient to fill the mould4 ,mode4--,cut1 but do not chop1 the pork into fine pieces1 and allow #a_/d lb4 of fat to each pound of lean4 ,season with pepper and salt2 pound well the spices1 and chop finely the parsley1 sage1 herbs1 and lemon-peel1 and mix the whole nicely together4 ,put it into a mould1 fill up with good strong well-flavoured gravy1 and bake rather more than one hour4 ,when cold1 turn it out of the mould4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,roast ,,leg ,,of ,,pork4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,leg ,,of ,,pork4 #hjj4 ,,ingredients4--,leg of pork1 a little oil for stuffing4 7,see ,recipe ,no4 #ejd47 ,mode4--,choose a small leg of pork1 and score the skin across in narrow strips1 about #a_/d inch apart4 ,cut a slit in the knuckle1 loosen the skin1 and fill it with a sage-and-onion stuffing1 made by ,recipe ,no4 #ejd4 ,brush the joint over with a little salad-oil 7this makes the crackling crisper1 and a better colour71 and put it down to a bright1 clear fire1 not too near1 as that would cause the skin to blister4 ,baste it well1 and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan1 and do not omit to send to table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce4 7,sec ,no4 #cfc47 ,time4--,a leg of pork weighing #h lbs41 about #c hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,english ,,mode ,,of ,,hunting1 ,,and ,,indian ,,pig-,,sticking4--,the hunting of the wild boar has been in all times1 and in all countries1 a pastime of the highest interest and excitement1 and from the age of ,nimrod1 has only been considered second to the more dangerous sport of lion-hunting4 ,the buried treasures of ,nineveh1 restored to us by ,mr4 ,layard1 show us1 on their sculptured annals1 the kings of ,assyria in their royal pastime of boar-hunting4 ,that the ,greeks were passionately attached to this sport1 we know both from history and the romantic fables of the poets4 ,marc ,antony1 at one of his breakfasts with ,cleopatra1 had eight wild boars roasted whole2 and though the ,romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting1 wild-boar fights formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre4 ,in ,france1 ,germany1 and ,britain1 from the earliest time1 the boar-hunt formed one of the most exciting of sports2 but it was only in this country that the sport was conducted without dogs1--a real hand-to-hand contest of man and beast2 the hunter1 armed only with a boar-spear1 a weapon about four feet long1 the ash staff1 guarded by plates of steel1 and terminating in a long1 narrow1 and very sharp blade3 this1 with a hunting-knife1 or hanger1 completed his offensive arms4 ,thus equipped1 the hunter would either encounter his enemy face to face1 confront his desperate charge1 as with erect tail1 depressed head1 and flaming eyes1 he rushed with his foamy tusks full against him1 who either sought to pierce his vitals through his counter1 or driving his spear through his chine1 transfix his heart2 or failing those more difficult aims1 plunge it into his flank1 and1 without withdrawing the weapon1 strike his ready hanger into his throat4 ,but expert as the hunter might be1 it was not often the formidable brute was so quickly dispatched2 for he would sometimes seize the spear in his powerful teeth1 and nip it off like a reed1 or1 coming full tilt on his enemy1 by his momentum and weight bear him to the earth1 ripping up1 with a horrid gash1 his leg or side1 and before the writhing hunter could draw his knife1 the infuriated beast would plunge his snout in the wound1 and rip1 with savage teeth1 the bowels of his victim4 ,at other times1 he would suddenly swerve from his charge1 and doubling on his opponent1 attack the hunter in the rear4 ,from his speed1 great weight1 and savage disposition1 the wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist1 and requires great courage1 coolness1 and agility on the part of the hunter4 ,the continental sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade1 with music and dogs1--a kind of small hound or mastiff1 and leaving all the honorary part of the contest to them1 when the boar is becoming weary1 and while beset by the dogs1 rides up1 and drives his lance home in the beast's back or side4 ,boar-hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in ,england1 the animal no longer existing in a wild state among us2 but in our ,indian empire1 and especially in ,bengal1 the pastime is pursued by our countrymen with all the daring of the national character2 and as the animal which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe1 the sport is attended with great excitement4 ,the hunters1 mounted on small1 active horses1 and armed only with long lances1 ride1 at early daylight1 to the skirts of the jungle1 and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover1 wait till the tusked monster comes crashing from among the canes1 when chase is immediately given1 till he is come up with1 and transfixed by the first weapon4 ,instead of flight1 however1 he often turns to bay1 and by more than one dead horse and wounded hunter1 shows how formidable he is1 and what those polished tusks1 sharp as pitch-forks1 can effect1 when the enraged animal defends his life4 ,,to ,,glaze ,,ham4--7,see ,recipe ,no4 #dcj47 ,,hashed ,,pork4 #hja4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast pork1 #b onions1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #b cloves1 #a tablespoonful of vinegar1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown1 cut the pork into thin slices1 season them with pepper and salt1 and add these to the remaining ingredients4 ,stew gently for about #a_/b hour1 and serve garnished with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #c;d4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,fried ,,rashers ,,of ,,bacon ,,and ,,poached ,,eggs4 #hjb4 ,,ingredients4--,bacon2 eggs4 ,mode4--,cut the bacon into thin slices1 trim away the rusty parts1 and cut off the rind4 ,put it into a cold frying-pan1 that is to say1 do not place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it4 ,turn it #b or #c times1 and dish it on a very hot dish4 ,poach the eggs and slip them on to the bacon1 without breaking the yolks1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--#c or #d minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 for the primest parts4 ,sufficient4--,allow #f eggs for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,fried rashers of bacon1 curled1 serve as a pretty garnish to many dishes2 and1 for small families1 answer very well as a substitute for boiled bacon1 to serve with a small dish of poultry1 c4 ,,broiled ,,rashers ,,of ,,bacon 7a ,breakfast ,dish74 #hjc4 ,before purchasing bacon1 ascertain that it is perfectly free from rust1 which may easily be detected by its yellow colour2 and for broiling1 the streaked part of the thick flank1 is generally the most esteemed4 ,cut it into thin slices1 take off the rind1 and broil over a nice clear fire2 turn it #b or #c times1 and serve very hot4 ,should there be any cold bacon left from the previous day1 it answers very well for breakfast1 cut into slices1 and broiled or fried4 ,time4--#c or #d minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 for the primest parts4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,when the bacon is cut very thin1 the slices may be curled round and fastened by means of small skewers1 and fried or toasted before the fire4 ,,boiled ,,bacon4 #hjd4 ,,ingredients4--,bacon2 water4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,bacon4 ,mode4--,as bacon is frequently excessively salt1 let it be soaked in warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it2 then pare off the rusty parts1 and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible4 ,put it into a saucepan of cold water1 let it come gradually to a boil1 and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water1 remove it4 ,let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done2 then take it up1 strip off the skin1 and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread raspings1 and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or ,brussels sprouts4 ,when served alone1 young and tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accompaniments4 ,time4--#a lb4 of bacon1 #a_/d hour2 #b lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 for the primest parts4 ,sufficient4--#b lbs41 when served with poultry or veal1 sufficient for #aj persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,cure ,,bacon ,,in ,,the ,,wiltshire ,,way4 #hje4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of coarse sugar1 #a-a_/b lb4 of bay-salt1 #f oz4 of saltpetre1 #a lb4 of common salt4 ,mode4--,sprinkle each flitch with salt1 and let the blood drain off for #bd hours2 then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rub it well into the meat1 which should be turned every day for a month2 then hang it to dry1 and afterwards smoke it for #aj days4 ,time4--,to remain in the pickle #a month1 to be smoked #aj days4 ,sufficient4--,the above quantity of salt for #a pig4 ,,how ,,pigs ,,were ,,formerly ,,pastured ,,and ,,fed4--,though unquestionably far greater numbers of swine are now kept in ,england than formerly1 every peasant having one or more of that useful animal1 in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the franklings and barons2 in those days the swine-herds being a regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household1 their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the castle-yard1 or outlying farm1 to the nearest woods1 chase1 or forest1 where the frankling or vavasour had1 either by right or grant1 what was called free warren1 or the liberty to feed his hogs off the acorns1 beech1 and chestnuts that lay in such abundance on the earth1 and far exceeded the power of the royal or privileged game to consume4 ,indeed1 it was the license granted the nobles of free warren1 especially for their swine1 that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date1 and covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts of wood and brake1 to the injury of agriculture and the misery of the people4 ,some idea of the extent to which swine were grazed in the feudal times1 may be formed by observing the number of pigs still fed in ,epping ,forest1 the ,forest of ,dean1 and the ,new ,forest1 in ,hampshire1 where1 for several months of the year1 the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a diet4 ,in ,germany1 where the chestnut is so largely cultivated1 the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous2 and consequently the pig1 both wild and domestic1 has1 for a considerable portion of the year1 an unfailing supply of admirable nourishment4 ,impressed with the value of this fruit for the food of pigs1 the ,prince ,consort has1 with great judgment1 of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in ,windsor ,park1 and by giving a small reward to old people and children for every bushel collected1 has not only found an occupation for many of the unemployed poor1 but1 by providing a gratuitous food for their pig1 encouraged a feeling of providence and economy4 ,,for ,,curing ,,bacon1 ,,and ,,keeping ,,it ,,free ,,from ,,rust 7,cobbett's ,recipe74 #hjf4 ,,the ,,two ,,sides ,,that ,,remain1 and which are called flitches1 are to be cured for bacon4 ,they are first rubbed with salt on their insides1 or flesh sides1 then placed one on the other1 the flesh sides uppermost1 in a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine2 for1 to have sweet and fine bacon1 the flitches must not be sopping in brine1 which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and sea pork have4 ,every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state2 therefore change the salt often1--once in #d or #e days2 let it melt and sink in1 but not lie too long2 twice change the flitches1 put that at bottom which was first on the top3 this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode1 but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine1 nor keep so well4 ,as for the time required in making your flitches sufficiently salt1 it depends on circumstances4 ,it takes a longer time for a thick than a thin flitch1 and longer in dry than in damp weather1 or in a dry than in a damp place2 but for the flitches of a hog of five score1 in weather not very dry or damp1 about #f weeks may do2 and as yours is to be fat1 which receives little injury from over-salting1 give time enough1 for you are to have bacon until ,christmas comes again4 #hjg4 ,,the ,,place ,,for ,,salting ,,should1 like a dairy1 always be cool1 but well ventilated2 confined air1 though cool1 will taint meat sooner than the midday day sun accompanied by a breeze4 ,with regard to smoking the bacon1 two precautions are necessary3 first1 to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them2 and next1 that the smoke must proceed from wood1 not peat1 turf1 or coal4 ,as to the time required to smoke a flitch1 it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath2 and whether the fire be large or small3 a month will do1 if the fire be pretty constant and rich1 as a farmhouse fire usually is2 but over-smoking1 or rather too long hanging in the air1 makes the bacon rust2 great attention should therefore be paid to this matter4 ,the flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board1 and yet it ought to be perfectly dry4 ,before you hang it up1 lay it on the floor1 scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran1 or with some fine sawdust1 not of deal or fir2 rub it on the flesh1 or pat it well down upon it3 this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings1 and makes a sort of crust to be dried on4 #hjh4 ,to ,,keep ,,the ,,bacon ,,sweet ,,and ,,good1 and free from hoppers1 sift fine some clean and dry wood ashes4 ,put some at the bottom of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon2 lay in one flitch1 and then put in more ashes1 then another flitch1 and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes4 ,the place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry1 and should the ashes become damp1 they should be put in the fireplace to dry1 and when cold1 put back again4 ,with these precautions1 the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day4 #hji4 ,,for ,,simple ,,general ,,rules2 these may be safely taken as a guide2 and those who implicitly follow the directions given1 will possess at the expiration of from #f weeks to #b months well-flavoured and well-cured bacon4 ,,hog ,,not ,,bacon4 ,,anecdote ,,of ,,lord ,,bacon4--,as ,lord ,bacon1 on one occasion1 was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the name of ,hogg1 who had just been tried for a long career of crime1 the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of judgment1 saying1 with an expression of arch confidence as he addressed the bench1 ,i claim indulgence1 my lord1 on the plea of relationship2 for ,i am convinced your lordship will never be unnatural enough to hang one of your own family4 ,indeed1 replied the judge1 with some amazement1 ,i was not aware that ,i had the honour of your alliance2 perhaps you will be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity4 ,i am sorry1 my lord1 returned the impudent thief1 ,i cannot trace the links of consanguinity2 but the moral evidence is sufficiently pertinent4 ,my name1 my lord1 is ,hogg1 your lordship's is ,bacon2 and all the world will allow that bacon and hog are very closely allied4 ,i am sorry1 replied his lordship1 ,i cannot admit the truth of your instance3 hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged2 and so1 before ,i can admit your plea1 or acknowledge the family compact1 ,hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning4 ,,to ,,bake ,a ,,ham4 #haj4 ,,ingredients4--,ham2 a common crust4 ,mode4--,as a ham for baking should be well soaked1 let it remain in water for at least #ab hours4 ,wipe it dry1 trim away any rusty places underneath1 and cover it with a common crust1 taking care that this is of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in4 ,place it in a moderately-heated oven1 and bake for nearly #d hours4 ,take off the crust1 and skin1 and cover with raspings1 the same as for boiled ham1 and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill4 ,this method of cooking a ham is1 by many persons1 considered far superior to boiling it1 as it cuts fuller of gravy and has a finer flavour1 besides keeping a much longer time good4 ,time4--,a medium-sized ham1 #d hours4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 by the whole ham4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,ham4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,ham4 #haa4 ,,ingredients4--,ham1 water1 glaze or raspings4 ,mode4--,in choosing a ham1 ascertain that it is perfectly sweet1 by running a sharp knife into it1 close to the bone2 and if1 when the knife is withdrawn1 it has an agreeable smell1 the ham is good2 if1 on the contrary1 the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell1 the ham is bad4 ,if it has been long hung1 and is very dry and salt1 let it remain in soak for #bd hours1 changing the water frequently4 ,this length of time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard2 from #h to #ab hours would be sufficient for a ,yorkshire or ,westmoreland ham4 ,wash it thoroughly clean1 and trim away from the under-side1 all the rusty and smoked parts1 which would spoil the appearance4 ,put it into a boiling-pot1 with sufficient cold water to cover it2 bring it gradually to boil1 and as the scum rises1 carefully remove it4 ,keep it simmering very gently until tender1 and be careful that it does not stop boiling1 nor boil too quickly4 ,when done1 take it out of the pot1 strip off the skin1 and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings1 put a frill of cut paper round the knuckle1 and serve4 ,if to be eaten cold1 let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold3 by this method the juices are kept in1 and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of the water hot2 it should1 however1 be borne in mind that the ham must not remain in the saucepan all night4 ,when the skin is removed1 sprinkle over bread-raspings1 or1 if wanted particularly nice1 glaze it4 ,place a paper frill round the knuckle1 and garnish with parsley or cut vegetable flowers4 7,see ,coloured ,plate ,p47 ,time4--,a ham weighing #aj lbs41 #d hours to simmer gently2 #ae lbs41 #e hours2 a very large one1 about #e hours4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 by the whole ham4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,how ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,ham ,,to ,,give ,,it ,,an ,,excellent ,,flavour4 #hab4 ,,ingredients4--,vinegar and water1 #b heads of celery1 #b turnips1 #c onions1 a large bunch of savoury herbs4 ,mode4--,prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe1 and let it soak for a few hours in vinegar and water4 ,put it on in cold water1 and when it boils1 add the vegetables and herbs4 ,simmer very gently until tender1 take it out1 strip off the skin1 cover with bread-raspings1 and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle4 ,time4--,a ham weighing #aj lbs41 #d hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 by the whole ham4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,how ,,to ,,silence ,a ,,pig4 ,,anecdote ,,of ,,charles ,v4--,when the emperor ,charles ,v4 was one day walking in the neighbourhood of ,vienna1 full of pious considerations1 engendered by the thoughts of the ,dominican cloister he was about to visit1 he was much annoyed by the noise of a pig1 which a country youth was carrying a little way before him4 ,at length1 irritated by the unmitigated noise1 ,have you not learned how to quiet a pig demanded the imperial traveller1 tartly4 ,noa1 replied the ingenuous peasant1 ignorant of the quality of his interrogator2--noa2 and ,i should very much like to know how to do it1 changing the position of his burthen1 and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the ear1 which immediately altered the tone and volume of his complaining4 ,why1 take the pig by the tail1 said the emperor1 and you will see how quiet he will become4 ,struck by the novelty of the suggestion1 the countryman at once dangled his noisy companion by the tail1 and soon discovered that1 under the partial congestion caused by its inverted position1 the pig had indeed become silent2 when1 looking with admiration on his august adviser1 he exclaimed1-- ,ah1 you must have learned the trade much longer than ,i1 for you understand it a great deal better4 ,,fried ,,ham ,,and ,,eggs 7a ,breakfast ,dish74 #hac4 ,,ingredients4--,ham2 eggs4 ,mode4--,cut the ham into slices1 and take care that they are of the same thickness in every part4 ,cut off the rind1 and if the ham should be particularly hard and salt1 it will be found an improvement to soak it for about #aj minutes in hot water1 and then dry it in a cloth4 ,put it into a cold frying-pan1 set it over the fire1 and turn the slices #c or #d times whilst they are cooking4 ,when done1 place them on a dish1 which should be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs are being poached4 ,poach the eggs1 slip them on to the slices of ham1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--#g or #h minutes to broil the ham4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 by the whole ham4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,ham may also be toasted or broiled2 but1 with the latter method1 to insure its being well cooked1 the fire must be beautifully clear1 or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable4 ,,potted ,,ham1 that will keep ,good for some time4 ,i4 #had4 ,,ingredients4--,to #d lbs4 of lean ham allow #a lb4 of fat1 #b teaspoonfuls of pounded mace1 #a_/b nutmeg grated1 rather more than #a_/b teaspoonful of cayenne1 clarified lard4 ,mode4--,mince the ham1 fat and lean together in the above proportion1 and pound it well in a mortar1 seasoning it with cayenne pepper1 pounded mace1 and nutmeg2 put the mixture into a deep baking-dish1 and bake for #a_/b hour2 then press it well into a stone jar1 fill up the jar with clarified lard1 cover it closely1 and paste over it a piece of thick paper4 ,if well seasoned1 it will keep a long time in winter1 and will be found very convenient for sandwiches1 c4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 7,a nice addition to the ,breakfast or ,luncheon table47 #hae4 ,,ingredients4--,to #b lbs4 of lean ham allow #a_/b lb4 of fat1 #a teaspoonful of pounded mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded allspice1 #a_/b nutmeg1 pepper to taste1 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham1 mince them small1 and to every #b lbs4 of lean1 allow the above proportion of fat4 ,pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste1 with the fat1 gradually add the seasoning and spices1 and be very particular that all the ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded4 ,press the mixture into potting-pots1 pour over clarified butter1 and keep it in a cool place4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,importance ,,of ,,the ,,boar',s ,,head1 ,,scottish ,,feuds1 c4--,the boar's head1 in ancient times1 formed the most important dish on the table1 and was invariably the first placed on the board upon ,christmas-day1 being preceded by a body of servitors1 a flourish of trumpets1 and other marks of distinction and reverence1 and carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord of the feast4 ,at some of our colleges and inns of court1 the serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on ,christmas-day is a custom still followed2 and till very lately1 a bore's head was competed for at ,christmas time by the young men of a rural parish in ,essex4 ,indeed1 so highly was the grizzly boar's head regarded in former times1 that it passed into a cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm3 thus it was not only the crest of the ,nevills and ,warwicks1 with their collateral houses1 but it was the cognizance of ,richard ,,iii41 that-- ,wretched1 bloody1 and usurping boar1 ,that spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines1 ,swills your warm blood like wash1 and makes his trough ,in your embowell'd bosoms1-- and whose nature it was supposed to typify2 and was universally used as a sign to taverns4 ,the ,boar's ,head in ,eastcheap1 which1 till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all its primitive quaintness1 though removed to make way for the ,london-bridge approaches1 will live vividly in the mind of every reader of ,shakspeare1 as the resort of the prince of ,wales1 ,poins1 and his companions1 and the residence of ,falstaff and his coney-catching knaves1 ,bardolph1 ,pistol1 and ,nym2 and whose sign was a boar's head1 carved in stone over the door1 and a smaller one in wood on each side of the doorway4 ,the traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in all parts of ,europe4 ,but the most remarkable connected with the subject in this country1 were two events that occurred in ,scotland1 about the #aath and #aeth centuries4 ,a border family having been dispossessed of their castle and lands by a more powerful chief1 were reduced for many years to great indigence1 the expelled owner only living in the hope of wreaking a terrible vengeance1 which1 agreeably to the motto of his house1 he was content to bide his time for4 ,the usurper having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in his new domains1 and a feast after in the great hall1 returned from the chase1 and discovering the feast not spread1 vented his wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors4 ,at length a menial approached1 followed by a line of servants1 and placing the boar's head on the table1 the guests rushed forward to begin the meal2 when1 to their horror1 they discovered1 not a boar's but a bull's head1--a sign of death4 ,the doors were immediately closed1 and the false servants1 who were the adherents of the dispossessed chief1 threw off their disguise1 and falling on the usurper and his friends1 butchered them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival faction4 ,a tribe of caterans1 or mountain robbers1 in the ,western ,highlands1 having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of the district1 waylaid him and his retinue1 put them all to the sword1 and cutting off the chief's head1 repaired to his castle1 where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food and drink4 ,to appease their savage humour1 the lady gave order for their entertainment1 and on returning to the hall to see her orders were complied with1 discovered1 in place of the boar's head that should have graced the board1 her husband's bleeding head2 the savage caterans1 in rude derision1 as a substitute for the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws1 having thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth4 ,,for ,,curing ,,hams 7,mons4 ,ude's ,recipe74 #haf4 ,,ingredients4--,for #b hams weighing about #af or #ah lbs4 each1 allow #a lb4 of moist sugar1 #a lb4 of common salt1 #b oz4 of saltpetre1 #a quart of good vinegar4 ,mode4--,as soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up1 take the #b hams and rub them well with common salt1 and leave them in a large pan for #c days4 ,when the salt has drawn out all the blood1 drain the hams1 and throw the brine away4 ,mix sugar1 salt1 and saltpetre together in the above proportion1 rub the hams well with these1 and put them into a vessel large enough to hold them1 always keeping the salt over them4 ,let them remain for #c days1 then pour over them a quart of good vinegar4 ,turn them in the brine every day for a month1 then drain them well1 and rub them with bran4 ,have them smoked over a wood fire1 and be particular that the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire2 otherwise the fat will melt1 and they will become dry and hard4 ,time4--,to be pickled #a month2 to be smoked #a month4 ,sufficient for #b hams of #ah lbs4 each4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,the ,,price ,,of ,a ,,sow ,,in ,,africa4--,in one of the native states of ,africa1 a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth2 upon which the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her hovel to ascertain the cause2 and seeing the purloining pig make off munching his booty1 the woman in her heat struck the grunter so smart a blow1 that the surly rascal took it into his head to go home very much indisposed1 and after a certain time resolved to die1--a resolution that he accordingly put into practice2 upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the ,star ,chamber court of his tribe1 against the husband and family of the woman whose rash act had led to such results2 and as the pig happened to be a sow1 in the very flower of her age1 the prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs1 with the expenses attending so high a tribunal1 swelled the damages and costs to such a sum1 that it was found impossible to pay them4 ,and as1 in the barbarous justice existing among these rude people1 every member of a family is equally liable as the individual who committed the wrong1 the father1 mother1 children1 relatives1--an entire community1 to the number of thirty-two souls1 were sold as slaves1 and a fearful sum of human misery perpetrated1 to pay the value of a thieving old sow4 ,,to ,,salt ,,two ,,hams1 about #ab or #ae lbs4 each4 #hag4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of treacle1 #a_/b lb4 of saltpetre1 #a lb4 of bay-salt1 #b pounds of common salt4 ,mode4--,two days before they are put into pickle1 rub the hams well with salt1 to draw away all slime and blood4 ,throw what comes from them away1 and then rub them with treacle1 saltpetre1 and salt4 ,lay them in a deep pan1 and let them remain one day2 boil the above proportion of treacle1 saltpetre1 bay-salt1 and common salt for #a_/d hour1 and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams3 there should be sufficient of it to cover them4 ,for a day or two rub them well with it2 afterwards they will only require turning4 ,they ought to remain in this pickle for #c weeks or a month1 and then be sent to be smoked1 which will take nearly or quite a month to do4 ,an ox-tongue pickled in this way is most excellent1 to be eaten either green or smoked4 ,time4--,to remain in the pickle #c weeks or a month2 to be smoked about a month4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,to ,,cure ,,sweet ,,hams ,,in ,,the ,,westmoreland ,,way4 #hah4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of common salt1 #c lbs4 of coarse sugar1 #a lb4 of bay-salt1 #c quarts of strong beer4 ,mode4--,before the hams are put into pickle1 rub them the preceding day well with salt1 and drain the brine well from them4 ,put the above ingredients into a saucepan1 and boil for #a_/d hour2 pour over the hams1 and let them remain a month in the pickle4 ,rub and turn them every day1 but do not take them out of the pickling-pan2 and have them smoked for a month4 ,time4--,to be pickled #a month2 to be smoked #a month4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,hams 7,suffolk ,recipe74 #hai4 ,,ingredients4--,to a ham from #aj to #ab lbs41 allow #a lb4 of coarse sugar1 #c_/d lb4 of salt1 #a oz4 of saltpetre1 #a_/b a teacupful of vinegar4 ,mode4--,rub the hams well with common salt1 and leave them for a day or two to drain2 then rub well in1 the above proportion of sugar1 salt1 saltpetre1 and vinegar1 and turn them every other day4 ,keep them in the pickle #a month1 drain them1 and send them to be smoked over a wood fire for #c weeks or a month4 ,time4--,to remain in the pickle #a month4 ,to be smoked #c weeks or #a month4 ,sufficient4--,the above proportion of pickle sufficient for #a ham4 ,seasonable4--,hams should be pickled from ,october to ,march4 ,,novel ,,way ,,of ,,recovering ,a ,,stolen ,,pig4--,it is a well-known fact1 that in ,ireland the pig is1 in every respect1 a domesticated animal1 sharing often both the bed and board of the family1 and making an outer ring to the domestic circle1 as1 seated round the pot of potatoes1 they partake of the midday meal called dinner4 ,an ,irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting member of his household1 in the form of a promising young porker1 consulted his priest on the occasion1 and having hinted at the person he suspected of purloining the illegant slip of a pig he was advised to take no further notice of the matter1 but leave the issue to his spiritual adviser4 ,next ,sunday his reverence1 after mass1 came to the front of the altar-rails1 and looking very hard at the supposed culprit1 exclaimed1 ,who stole ,pat ,doolan's pig8 ,to this inquiry there was of course no answer2--the priest did not expect there would be any4 ,the following ,sunday the same query was propounded a little stronger--,who of you was it1 ,i say1 who stole poor ,pat ,doolan's pig8 ,it now became evident that the culprit was a hardened sinner2 so on the third ,sunday1 instead of repeating the unsatisfactory inquiry1 the priest1 after1 as usual1 eyeing the obdurate offender1 said1 in a tone of pious sorrow1 ,mike ,regan1 ,mike ,regan1 you treat me with contempt6 ,that night1 when the family was all asleep1 the latch of the door was noiselessly lifted1 and the illegant slip of a pig cautiously slipped into the cabin4 ,,to ,,smoke ,,hams ,,and ,,fish ,,at ,,home4 #hbj4 ,take an old hogshead1 stop up all the crevices1 and fix a place to put a cross-stick near the bottom1 to hang the articles to be smoked on4 ,next1 in the side1 cut a hole near the top1 to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood4 ,having turned the tub upside down1 hang the articles upon the cross-stick1 introduce the iron pan in the opening1 and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan1 cover it with sawdust1 and all will be complete4 ,let a large ham remain #dj hours1 and keep up a good smoke4 ,,to ,,cure ,,bacon ,,or ,,hams ,,in ,,the ,,devonshire ,,way4 #hba4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #ad lbs4 of meat1 allow #b oz4 of saltpetre1 #b oz4 of salt prunella1 #a lb4 of common salt4 ,for the pickle1 #c gallons of water1 #e lbs4 of common salt1 #g lbs4 of coarse sugar1 #c lbs4 of bay-salt4 ,mode4--,weigh the sides1 hams1 and cheeks1 and to every #ad lbs4 allow the above proportion of saltpetre1 salt prunella1 and common salt4 ,pound and mix these together1 and rub well into the meat2 lay it in a stone trough or tub1 rubbing it thoroughly1 and turning it daily for #b successive days4 ,at the end of the second day1 pour on it a pickle made as follows3--,put the above ingredients into a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and stir frequently2 remove all the scum1 allow it to boil for #a_/d hour1 and pour it hot over the meat4 ,let the hams1 c41 be well rubbed and turned daily2 if the meat is small1 a fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle1 and the hams #c weeks2 if from #cj lbs4 and upwards1 #c weeks will be required for the sides1 c41 and from #d to #e weeks for the hams4 ,on taking the pieces out1 let them drain for an hour1 cover with dry sawdust1 and smoke from a fortnight to #c weeks4 ,boil and carefully skim the pickle after using1 and it will keep good1 closely corked1 for #b years4 ,when boiling it for use1 add about #b lbs4 of common salt1 and the same of treacle1 to allow for waste4 ,tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold1 having been first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt1 and allowed to remain #bd hours1 not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of the tongue1 so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily4 ,a fortnight or #c weeks1 according to the size of the tongue1 will be sufficient4 ,time--,small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight1 hams #c weeks2 to be smoked from a fortnight to #c weeks4 ,the following is from ,morton's ,cyclopaedia of ,agriculture1 and will be found fully worthy of the high character of that publication4 ,,curing ,,of ,,hams ,,and ,,bacon4 #hbb4 ,the carcass of the hog1 after hanging over-night to cool1 is laid on a strong bench or stool1 and the head is separated from the body at the neck1 close behind the ears2 the feet and also the internal fat are removed4 ,the carcass is next divided into two sides in the following manner3--,the ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side1 and the spine1 with the ends of the ribs attached1 together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys1 and also the flesh above it1 throughout the whole length of the sides1 are removed4 ,the portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge--the breadth of the interior consisting of the breadth of the spine1 and about an inch of the ribs on each side1 being diminished to about half an inch at the exterior or skin along the back4 ,the breast-bone1 and also the first anterior rib1 are also dissected from the side4 ,sometimes the whole of the ribs are removed2 but this1 for reasons afterwards to be noticed1 is a very bad practice4 ,when the hams are cured separately from the sides1 which is generally the case1 they are cut out so as to include the hock-bone1 in a similar manner to the ,london mode of cutting a haunch of mutton4 ,the carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted1 which process1 in large caring establishments1 is generally as follows4 ,the skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts by weight of salt1 and one part of saltpetre in powder1 and the incised parts of the ham or flitch1 and the inside of the flitch covered with the same4 ,the salted bacon1 in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other1 is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined1 and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house1 to be afterwards used for pickling pork for navy purposes4 ,in this state the bacon remains a fortnight1 which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of a carcass weight less than #ae stone 7#ad lbs4 to the stone74 ,flitches of a larger size1 at the expiration of that time1 are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile1 having1 at the same time1 about half the first quantity of fresh1 dry1 common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts2 after which they remain on the benches for another week4 ,hams being thicker than flitches1 will require1 when less than #bj lbs4 weight1 #c weeks2 and when above that weight1 #d weeks to remain under the above-described process4 ,the next and last process in the preparation of bacon and hams1 previous to being sent to market1 is drying4 ,this is effected by hanging the flitches and hams for #b or #c weeks in a room heated by stoves1 or in a smoke-house1 in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or other hard wood4 ,the latter mode of completing the curing process has some advantages over the other1 as by it the meat is subject to the action of creosote1 a volatile oil produced by the combustion of the sawdust1 which is powerfully antiseptic4 ,the process also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish1 excludes the air not only from the muscle but also from the fat2 thus effectually preventing the meat from becoming rusted2 and the principal reasons for condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork are1 that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting1 and by being more opposed to the action of the air1 becomes sooner and more extensively rusted4 ,notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing1 the flavour which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons1 and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile curers4 ,a very impure variety of pyroligneous acid1 or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood1 is sometimes used1 on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains1 and also to impart the smoke-flavour2 in which latter object1 however1 the coarse flavour of tar is given1 rather than that derived from the smoke from combustion of wood4 ,a considerable portion of the bacon and hams salted in ,ireland is exported from that country packed amongst salt1 in bales1 immediately from the salting process1 without having been in any degree dried4 ,in the process of salting above described1 pork loses from eight to ten per cent4 of its weight1 according to the size and quality of the meat2 and a further diminution of weight1 to the extent of five to six per cent41 takes place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt2 so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for market1 is not less on an average than fifteen per cent4 on the weight of the fresh pork4 ,,collared ,,pig',s ,,face 7a ,breakfast or ,luncheon ,dish74 #hbc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pig's face2 salt4 ,for brine1 #a gallon of spring water1 #a lb4 of common salt1 #a_/b handful of chopped juniper-berries1 #f bruised cloves1 #b bay-leaves1 a few sprigs of thyme1 basil1 sage1 #a_/d oz4 of saltpetre4 ,for forcemeat1 #a_/b lb4 of ham1 #a_/b lb4 bacon1 #a teaspoonful of mixed spices1 pepper to taste1 #a_/d lb4 of lard1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #f young onions4 ,illustration3 ,,pig',s ,,face4 ,mode4--,singe the head carefully1 bone it without breaking the skin1 and rub it well with salt4 ,make the brine by boiling the above ingredients for #a_/d hour1 and letting it stand to cool4 ,when cold1 pour it over the head1 and let it steep in this for #aj days1 turning and rubbing it often4 ,then wipe1 drain1 and dry it4 ,for the forcemeat1 pound the ham and bacon very finely1 and mix with these the remaining ingredients1 taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated4 ,spread this equally over the head1 roll it tightly in a cloth1 and bind it securely with broad tape4 ,put it into a saucepan with a few meat trimmings1 and cover it with stock2 let it simmer gently for #d hours1 and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time4 ,when quite tender1 take it up1 put it between #b dishes with a heavy weight on the top1 and when cold1 remove the cloth and tape4 ,it should be sent to table on a napkin1 or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a ruche at the top4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 from #bs4 to #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,the ,,wild ,,and ,,domestic ,,hog4--,the domestic hog is the descendant of a race long since banished from this island2 and it is remarkable1 that while the tamed animal has been and is kept under surveillance1 the wild type whence this race sprung1 has maintained itself in its ancient freedom1 the fierce denizen of the forest1 and one of the renowned beasts of the chase4 ,whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog1 the horse1 the ox1 and others1 or as to whether their original race is yet extant or not1 these doubts do not apply to the domestic hog4 ,its wild source still exists1 and is universally recognized3 like the wolf1 however1 it has been expelled from our island2 but1 like that animal1 it still roams through the vast wooded tracts of ,europe and ,asia4 ,,to ,,dress ,,pig',s ,,fry 7a ,savoury ,dish74 #hbd4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of pig's fry1 #b onions1 a few sage-leaves1 #c lbs4 of potatoes1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish1 sprinkle over it some minced sage and onion1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 slice the potatoes2 put a layer of these on the seasoning1 then the fat fry1 then more seasoning1 and a layer of potatoes at the top4 ,fill the dish with boiling water1 and bake for #b hours1 or rather longer4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,to ,,melt ,,lard4 #hbe4 ,melt the inner fat of the pig1 by putting it in a stone jar1 and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water1 previously stripping off the skin4 ,let it simmer gently over a bright fire1 and as it melts1 pour it carefully from the sediment4 ,put it into small jars or bladders for use1 and keep it in a cool place4 ,the flead or inside fat of the pig1 before it is melted1 makes exceedingly light crust1 and is particularly wholesome4 ,it may be preserved a length of time by salting it well1 and occasionally changing the brine4 ,when wanted for use1 wash and wipe it1 and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,,boiled ,,leg ,,of ,,pork4 #hbf4 ,,ingredients4--,leg of pork2 salt4 ,mode4--,for boiling1 choose a small1 compact1 well-filled leg1 and rub it well with salt2 let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days1 turning and rubbing it every day4 ,an hour before dressing it1 put it into cold water for an hour1 which improves the colour4 ,if the pork is purchased ready salted1 ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle1 and soak it accordingly4 ,put it into a boiling-pot1 with sufficient cold water to cover it2 let it gradually come to a boil1 and remove the scum as it rises4 ,simmer it very gently until tender1 and do not allow it to boil fast1 or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done4 ,carrots1 turnips1 or parsnips may be boiled with the pork1 some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish1 and a well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment4 ,time4--,a leg of pork weighing #h lbs41 #c hours after the water boils1 and to be simmered very gently4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,the liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled1 makes excellent pea-soup4 ,,antiquity ,,of ,,the ,,hog4--,the hog has survived changes which have swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of our earth4 ,it still presents the same characteristics1 both physical and moral1 which the earliest writers1 whether sacred or profane1 have faithfully delineated4 ,although the domestic has been more or less modified by long culture1 yet the wild species remains unaltered1 insomuch that the fossil relics may be identified with the bones of their existing descendants4 ,,roast ,,griskin ,,of ,,pork4 #hbg4 ,,ingredients4--,pork2 a little powdered sage4 ,illustration3 ,,spare-,,rib ,,of ,,pork4 ,illustration3 ,,griskin ,,of ,,pork4 ,mode4--,as this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry1 particular care should be taken that it is well basted4 ,put it down to a bright fire1 and flour it4 ,about #aj minutes before taking it up1 sprinkle over some powdered sage2 make a little gravy in the dripping-pan1 strain it over the meat1 and serve with a tureen of apple sauce4 ,this joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is left on1 consequently1 should have the greatest attention that it be not dried up4 ,time4--,griskin of pork weighing #f lbs41 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,a spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above1 and would take #a-a_/b hour for one weighing about #f lbs4 ,illustration3 ,,bacon ,,for ,,larding1 ,,and ,,larding-,,needle4 ,,larding4 #hbh4 ,,ingredients4--,bacon and larding-needle4 ,mode4--,bacon for larding should be firm and fat1 and ought to be cured without any saltpetre1 as this reddens white meats4 ,lay it on a table1 the rinds downwards2 trim off any rusty part1 and cut it into slices of an equal thickness4 ,place the slices one on the top of another1 and cut them evenly into narrow strips1 so arranging it that every piece of bacon is of the same size4 ,bacon for fricandeau1 poultry1 and game1 should be about #b inches in length1 and rather more than one-eighth of an inch in width4 ,if for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal1 the pieces of bacon must be thicker4 ,the following recipe of ,soyer is1 we think1 very explicit2 and any cook1 by following the directions here given1 may be able to lard1 if not well1 sufficiently for general use4 ,have the fricandeau trimmed1 lay it1 lengthwise1 upon a clean napkin across your hand1 forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at2 then with the point of the larding-needle make three distinct lines across1 #a_/b inch apart2 run the needle into the third line1 at the further side of the fricandeau1 and bring it out at the first1 placing one of the lardoons in it2 draw the needle through1 leaving out #a_/d inch of the bacon at each line2 proceed thus to the end of the row2 then make another line1 #a_/b inch distant1 stick in another row of lardoons1 bringing them out at the second line1 leaving the ends of the bacon out all the same length2 make the next row again at the same distance1 bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the first row1 proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded in chequered rows4 ,everything else is larded in a similar way2 and1 in the case of poultry1 hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one minute1 or dip it into boiling water1 in order to make the flesh firm4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,pork4 #hbi4 ,,ingredients4--,pork2 a little salt4 ,illustration3 ,,fore ,,loin ,,of ,,pork4 ,illustration3 ,,hind ,,loin ,,of ,,pork4 ,mode4--,score the skin in strips rather more than #a_/d inch apart1 and place the joint at a good distance from the fire1 on account of the crackling1 which would harden before the meat would be heated through1 were it placed too near4 ,if very lean1 it should be rubbed over with a little salad oil1 and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire4 ,pork should be very thoroughly cooked1 but not dry2 and be careful never to send it to table the least underdone1 as nothing is more unwholesome and disagreeable than underdressed white meats4 ,serve with apple sauce1 ,no4 #cfc1 and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan4 ,a stuffing of sage and onion may be made separately1 and baked in a flat dish3 this method is better than putting it in the meat1 as many persons have so great an objection to the flavour4 ,time4--,a loin of pork weighing #e lbs41 about #b hours3 allow more time should it be very fat4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,fossil ,,remains ,,of ,,the ,,hog4--,in ,british strata1 the oldest fossil remains of the hog which ,professor ,owen states that he has examined1 were from fissures in the red crag 7probably miocene7 of ,newbourne1 near ,woodbridge1 ,suffolk4 ,they were associated with teeth of an extinct felis about the size of a leopard1 with those of a bear1 and with remains of a large cervus4 ,these mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the red crag3 they had undergone the same process of trituration1 and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived from the regular strata of the red crag4 ,these mammaliferous beds have been proved by ,mr4 ,lyell to be older than the fluvio-marine1 or ,norwich crag1 in which remains of the mastodon1 rhinoceros1 and horse have been discovered2 and still older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits1 from which the remains of the mammoth1 rhinoceros1 c4 are obtained in such abundance4 ,i have met1 says the professor1 in addition1 with some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains of a species of hog with those of the mammoth1 in the newer pliocene freshwater formations of ,england4 ,,to ,,dry ,,pigs' ,,cheeks4 #hcj4 ,,ingredients4--,salt1 #d oz4 of saltpetre1 #b oz4 of bay-salt1 #d oz4 of coarse sugar4 ,mode4--,cut out the snout1 remove the brains1 and split the head1 taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape2 rub it well with salt2 next day take away the brine1 and salt it again the following day2 cover the head with saltpetre1 bay-salt1 and coarse sugar1 in the above proportion1 adding a little common salt4 ,let the head be often turned1 and when it has been in the pickle for #aj days1 smoke it for a week or rather longer4 ,time4--,to remain in the pickle #aj days2 to be smoked #a week4 ,seasonable4--,should be made from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,a pig's check1 or ,bath chap1 will take about #b hours after the water boils4 ,,pig',s ,,liver 7a ,savoury and ,economical ,dish74 #hca4 ,,ingredients4--,the liver and lights of a pig1 #f or #g slices of bacon1 potatoes1 #a large bunch of parsley1 #b onions1 #b sage-leaves1 pepper and salt to taste1 a little broth or water4 ,mode4--,slice the liver and lights1 and wash these perfectly clean1 and parboil the potatoes2 mince the parsley and sage1 and chop the onion rather small4 ,put the meat1 potatoes1 and bacon into a deep tin dish1 in alternate layers1 with a sprinkling of the herbs1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt between each2 pour on a little water or broth1 and bake in a moderately-heated oven for #b hours4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,pig',s ,,pettitoes4 #hcb4 ,,ingredients4--,a thin slice of bacon1 #a onion1 #a blade of mace1 #f peppercorns1 #c or #d sprigs of thyme1 #a pint of gravy1 pepper and salt to taste1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,put the liver1 heart1 and pettitoes into a stewpan with the bacon1 mace1 peppercorns1 thyme1 onion1 and gravy1 and simmer these gently for #a_/d hour2 then take out the heart and liver1 and mince them very fine4 ,keep stewing the feet until quite tender1 which will be in from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 reckoning from the time that they boiled up first2 then put back the minced liver1 thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour1 season with pepper and salt1 and simmer over a gentle fire for #e minutes1 occasionally stirring the contents4 ,dish the mince1 split the feet1 and arrange them round alternately with sippets of toasted bread1 and pour the gravy in the middle4 ,time4--,altogether #dj minutes4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,to ,,pickle ,,pork4 #hcc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of saltpetre2 salt4 ,mode4--,as pork does not keep long without being salted1 cut it into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold4 ,rub the pieces of pork well with salt1 and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it between each piece3 as it melts on the top1 strew on more4 ,lay a coarse cloth over the pan1 a board over that1 and a weight on the board1 to keep the pork down in the brine4 ,if excluded from the air1 it will continue good for nearly #b years4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 for the prime parts4 ,seasonable4--,the best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn4 ,,the ,,universality ,,of ,,the ,,hog4--,a singular circumstance in the domestic history of the hog1 is the extent of its distribution over the surface of the earth2 being found even in insulated places1 where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous1 and where the wild species is entirely unknown4 ,the ,south-,sea islands1 for example1 were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a small black hog2 and the traditionary belief of the people was that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves4 ,yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar1 or any other animal of the hog kind1 from which the domestic breed might be supposed to be derived4 ,in these islands the hog is the principal quadruped1 and the fruit of the bread-tree is its principal food1 although it is also fed with yams1 eddoes1 and other vegetables4 ,this nutritious diet1 which it has in great abundance1 is1 according to ,foster1 the reason of its flesh being so delicious1 so full of juice1 and so rich in fat1 which is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter4 ,,to ,,boil ,,pickled ,,pork4 #hcd4 ,,ingredients4--,pork2 water4 ,mode4--,should the pork be very salt1 let it remain in water about #b hours before it is dressed2 put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it1 let it gradually come to a boil1 then gently simmer until quite tender4 ,allow ample time for it to cook1 as nothing is more disagreeable than underdone pork1 and when boiled fast1 the meat becomes hard4 ,this is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal1 instead of bacon3 when tender1 and not over salt1 it will be found equally good4 ,time4--,a piece of pickled pork weighing #b lbs41 #a-a_/d hour2 #d lbs41 rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 for the primest parts4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,antiquity ,,of ,,the ,,hog4--,by what nation and in what period the hog was reclaimed1 is involved in the deepest obscurity4 ,so far back as we have any records of history1 we find notices of this animal1 and of its flesh being used as the food of man4 ,by some nations1 however1 its flesh was denounced as unclean1 and therefore prohibited to be used1 whilst by others it was esteemed as a great delicacy4 ,by the ,mosaic law it was forbidden to be eaten by the ,jews1 and the ,mahometans hold it in utter abhorrence4 ,dr4 ,kitto1 however1 says that there does not appear to be any reason in the law of ,moses why the hog should be held in such peculiar abomination4 ,there seems nothing to have prevented the ,jews1 if they had been so inclined1 to rear pigs for sale1 or for the use of the land4 ,in the ,talmud there are some indications that this was actually done2 and it was1 probably1 for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in the ,new ,testament were kept1 although it is usual to consider that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land4 ,indeed1 the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the ,hebrews to the hog1 assumes that it did not originate until about #acj years before ,christ1 and that1 previously1 some ,jews were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated4 ,,pork ,,pies 7,warwickshire ,recipe74 #hce4 ,,ingredients4--,for the crust1 #e lbs4 of lard to #ad lbs4 of flour1 milk1 and water4 ,for filling the pies1 to every #c lbs4 of meat allow #a oz4 of salt1 #b-a_/d oz4 of pepper1 a small quantity of cayenne1 #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,rub into the flour a portion of the lard2 the remainder put with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust1 and boil this gently for #a_/d hour4 ,pour it boiling on the flour1 and knead and beat it till perfectly smooth4 ,now raise the crust in either a round or oval form1 cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut1 season it in the above proportion1 and press it compactly into the pie1 in alternate layers of fat and lean1 and pour in a small quantity of water2 lay on the lid1 cut the edges smoothly round1 and pinch them together4 ,bake in a brick oven1 which should be slow1 as the meat is very solid4 ,very frequently1 the inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust4 ,she should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold1 or it will fall immediately3 to prevent this1 the operation should be performed as near the fire as possible4 ,as considerable dexterity and expertness are necessary to raise the crust with the hand only1 a glass bottle or small jar may be placed in the middle of the paste1 and the crust moulded on this2 but be particular that it is kept warm the whole time4 ,sufficient4--,the proportions for #a pie are #a lb4 of flour and #c lbs4 of meat4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,the ,,flesh ,,of ,,swine ,,in ,,hot ,,climates4--,it is observed by ,m4 ,sonini1 that the flesh of swine1 in hot climates1 is considered unwholesome1 and therefore may account for its proscription by the legislators and priests of the ,east4 ,in ,egypt1 ,syria1 and even the southern parts of ,greece1 although both white and delicate1 it is so flabby and surcharged with fat1 that it disagrees with the strongest stomachs4 ,abstinence from it in general was1 therefore1 indispensable to health under the burning suns of ,egypt and ,arabia4 ,the ,egyptians were permitted to eat it only once a year1--on the feast of the moon2 and then they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet4 ,at other seasons1 should any one even touch a hog1 he was obliged immediately to plunge into the river ,nile1 as he stood1 with his clothes on1 in order to purify himself from the supposed contamination he had contracted by the touch4 ,,little ,,raised ,,pork ,,pies4 #hcf4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of mutton suet1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #d lbs4 of the neck of pork1 #a dessertspoonful of powdered sage4 ,mode4--,well dry the flour1 mince the suet1 and put these with the butter into a saucepan1 to be made hot1 and add a little salt4 ,when melted1 mix it up into a stiff paste1 and put it before the fire with a cloth over it until ready to make up2 chop the pork into small pieces1 season it with white pepper1 salt1 and powdered sage2 divide the paste into rather small pieces1 raise it in a round or oval form1 fill with the meat1 and bake in a brick oven4 ,these pies will require a fiercer oven than those in the preceding recipe1 as they are made so much smaller1 and consequently do not require so soaking a heat4 ,time4--,if made small1 about #a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,swineherds ,,of ,,antiquity4--,from the prejudice against the hog among the ancients1 those who tended them formed an isolated class1 and were esteemed as the outcasts of society4 ,however much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the ,greeks and ,romans1 yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic writers or the poets who1 in ancient ,greece and ,rome1 painted rural life4 ,we have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending to the occupation of keeping swine4 ,the swineherd is never introduced into the idyls of ,theocritus1 nor has ,virgil admitted him into his eclogues4 ,the ,eumaeus of ,homer is the only exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the eyes of a poet of antiquity4 ,this may be accounted for1 on the supposition that the prejudices of the ,egyptians relative to this class of men1 extended to both ,greece and ,italy1 and imparted a bias to popular opinion4 ,,to ,,make ,,sausages4 7,author's ,oxford ,recipe47 #hcg4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of pork1 fat and lean1 without skin or gristle2 #a lb4 of lean veal1 #a lb4 of beef suet1 #a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #a small nutmeg1 #f sage-leaves1 #a teaspoonful of pepper1 #b teaspoonfuls of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of savory1 #a_/b teaspoonful of marjoram4 ,mode4--,chop the pork1 veal1 and suet finely together1 add the bread crumbs1 lemon-peel 7which should be well minced71 and a small nutmeg grated4 ,wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely2 add these with the remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat1 and when thoroughly mixed1 either put the meat into skins1 or1 when wanted for table1 form it into little cakes1 which should be floured and fried4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for about #cj moderate-sized sausages4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march4 ,,the ,,hog ,,in ,,england4--,from time immemorial1 in ,england1 this animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance4 ,in the ,anglo-,saxon period1 vast herds of swine were tended by men1 who watched over their safety1 and who collected them under shelter at night4 ,at that time1 the flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption in every family1 and a large portion of the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these animals4 ,hence it was common to make bequests of swine1 with lands for their support2 and to these were attached rights and privileges in connection with their feeding1 and the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in accordance with established rules4 ,this is proved by an ancient ,saxon grant1 quoted by ,sharon ,turner1 in his ,history of the ,anglo-,saxons1 where the right of pasturage is conveyed in a deed by the following words3--,i give food for seventy swine in that woody allotment which the countrymen call ,wolferdinlegh4 ,,fried ,,sausages4 ,illustration3 ,,fried ,,sausages4 #hch4 ,,ingredients4--,sausages2 a small piece of butter4 ,mode4--,prick the sausages with a fork 7this prevents them from bursting71 and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter4 ,keep moving the pan about1 and turn the sausages #c or #d times4 ,in from #aj to #ab minutes they will be sufficiently cooked1 unless they are very large1 when a little more time should be allowed for them4 ,dish them with or without a piece of toast under them1 and serve very hot4 ,in some counties1 sausages are boiled and served on toast4 ,they should be plunged into boiling water1 and simmered for about #aj or #ab minutes4 ,time4--#aj to #ab minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable4--,good from ,september to ,march4 ,note4--,sometimes1 in close warm weather1 sausages very soon turn sour2 to prevent this1 put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small piece of butter to keep them moist4 ,when wanted for table1 they will not require so long frying as uncooked sausages4 ,,the ,,saxon ,,swineherd4--,the men employed in herding swine during the ,anglo-,saxon period of our history were1 in general1 thralls or born slaves of the soil1 who were assisted by powerful dogs1 capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue4 ,in the ,ivanhoe of ,sir ,walter ,scott1 we have an admirable picture1 in the character of ,gurth1 an ,anglo-,saxon swineherd1 as we also have of his master1 a large landed proprietor1 a great portion of whose wealth consisted of swine1 and whose rude but plentiful board was liberally supplied with the flesh4 ,,sausage-,,meat ,,cakes4 #hci4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of lean pork1 add #c_/d lb4 of fat bacon1 #a_/d oz4 of salt1 #a saltspoonful of pepper1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley4 ,mode4--,remove from the pork all skin1 gristle1 and bone1 and chop it finely with the bacon2 add the remaining ingredients1 and carefully mix altogether4 ,pound it well in a mortar1 make it into convenient-sized cakes1 flour these1 and fry them a nice brown for about #aj minutes4 ,this is a very simple method of making sausage-meat1 and on trial will prove very good1 its great recommendation being1 that it is so easily made4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,to ,,scald ,a ,,sucking-,,pig4 #hdj4 ,put the pig into cold water directly it is killed2 let it remain for a few minutes1 then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for #b minutes4 ,take it out1 lay it on a table1 and pull off the hair as quickly as possible4 ,when the skin looks clean1 make a slit down the belly1 take out the entrails1 well clean the nostrils and ears1 wash the pig in cold water1 and wipe it thoroughly dry4 ,take off the feet at the first joint1 and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over4 ,if not to be dressed immediately1 fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air4 ,,the ,,learned ,,pig4--,that the pig is capable of education1 is a fact long known to the world2 and though1 like the ass1 naturally stubborn and obstinate1 that he is equally amenable with other animals to caresses and kindness1 has been shown from very remote time2 the best modern evidence of his docility1 however1 is the instance of the learned pig1 first exhibited about a century since1 but which has been continued down to our own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put together all the letters or figures that compose the day1 month1 hour1 and date of the exhibition1 besides many other unquestioned evidences of memory4 ,the instance already given of breaking a sow into a pointer1 till she became more stanch even than the dog itself1 though surprising1 is far less wonderful than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an animal may be taught not only to spell1 but couple figures and give dates correctly4 ,,roast ,,sucking-,,pig4 #hda4 ,,ingredients4--,pig1 #f oz4 of bread crumbs1 #af sage-leaves1 pepper and salt to taste1 a piece of butter the size of an egg1 salad oil or butter to baste with1 about #a_/b pint of gravy1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,sucking-,,pig4 ,mode4--,a sucking-pig1 to be eaten in perfection1 should not be more than three weeks old1 and should be dressed the same day that it is killed4 ,after preparing the pig for cooking1 as in the preceding recipe1 stuff it with finely-grated bread crumbs1 minced sage1 pepper1 salt1 and a piece of butter the size of an egg1 all of which should be well mixed together1 and put into the body of the pig4 ,sew up the slit neatly1 and truss the legs back1 to allow the inside to be roasted1 and the under part to be crisp4 ,put the pig down to a bright clear fire1 not too near1 and let it lay till thoroughly dry2 then have ready some butter tied up in a piece of thin cloth1 and rub the pig with this in every part4 ,keep it well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting1 and do not allow the crackling to become blistered or burnt4 ,when half-done1 hang a pig-iron before the middle part 7if this is not obtainable1 use a flat iron71 to prevent its being scorched and dried up before the ends are done4 ,before it is taken from the fire1 cut off the head1 and part that and the body down the middle4 ,chop the brains and mix them with the stuffing2 add #a_/b pint of good gravy1 a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 and the gravy that flowed from the pig2 put a little of this on the dish with the pig1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,place the pig back to back in the dish1 with one half of the head on each side1 and one of the ears at each end1 and send it to table as hot as possible4 ,instead of butter1 many cooks take salad oil for basting1 which makes the crackling crisp2 and as this is one of the principal things to be considered1 perhaps it is desirable to use it2 but be particular that it is very pure1 or it will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat4 ,the brains and stuffing may be stirred into a tureen of melted butter instead of gravy1 when the latter is not liked4 ,apple sauce and the old-fashioned currant sauce are not yet quite obsolete as an accompaniment to roast pig4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours for a small pig4 ,average cost1 #es4 to #fs4 ,sufficient for #i or #aj persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,how ,,roast ,,pig ,,was ,,discovered4--,charles ,lamb1 who1 in the early part of this century1 delighted the reading public by his quaint prose sketches1 written under the title of ,essays of ,elia1 has1 in his own quiet humorous way1 devoted one paper to the subject of ,roast ,pig1 and more especially to that luxurious and toothsome dainty known as ,,crackling2 and shows1 in a manner peculiarly his own1 how crackling first came into the world4 ,according to this erudite authority1 man in the golden age1 or at all events the primitive age1 eat his pork and bacon raw1 as1 indeed1 he did his beef and mutton2 unless1 as ,hudibras tells us1 he was an epicure1 when he used to make a saddle of his saddle of mutton1 and after spreading it on his horse's back1 and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed1 he sat down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn4 ,at the epoch of the story1 however1 a citizen of some ,scythian community had the misfortune to have his hut1 or that portion of it containing his live stock of pigs1 burnt down4 ,in going over the dbris on the following day1 and picking out all the available salvage1 the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot1 which caused him to shake his hand with great energy1 and clap the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth4 ,the act was simple and natural1 but the result was wonderful4 ,he rolled his eyes in ecstatic pleasure1 his frame distended1 and1 conscious of a celestial odour1 his nostrils widened1 and1 while drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume1 he sucked his fingers with a gusto he had never1 in his most hungry moments1 conceived4 ,clearing away the rubbish from beneath him1 he at last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs1 roasted to death4 ,stooping down to examine this curious object1 and touching its body1 a fragment of the burnt skin was detached1 which1 with a sort of superstitious dread1 he at length1 and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry1 put into his mouth4 ,ye gods6 the felicity he then enjoyed1 no pen can chronicle6 ,then it was that he--the world--first tasted crackling4 ,like a miser with his gold1 the ,scythian hid his treasure from the prying eyes of the world1 and feasted1 in secret1 more sumptuously than the gods4 ,when he had eaten up all his pig1 the poor man fell into a melancholy2 he refused the most tempting steak1 though cooked on the horse's back1 and turned every half-hour after his own favourite recipe2 he fell1 in fact1 from his appetite1 and was reduced to a shadow1 till1 unable longer to endure the torments of memory he hourly suffered1 he rose one night and secretly set fire to his hut1 and once more was restored to flesh and manhood4 ,finding it impossible to live in future without roast-pig1 he set fire to his house every time his larder became empty2 till at last his neighbours1 scandalized by the frequency of these incendiary acts1 brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation4 ,to avert the penalty that awaited him1 he brought his judges to the smouldering ruins1 and discovering the secret1 invited them to eat2 which having done1 with tears of gratitude1 the august synod embraced him1 and1 with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy1 dedicated a statue to the memory of the man who first instituted roast pork4 ,,pork ,,carving4 ,,sucking-,,pig4 ,illustration3 ,,sucking-,,pig4 #hdb4 ,a sucking-pig seems1 at first sight1 rather an elaborate dish1 or rather animal1 to carve2 but by carefully mastering the details of the business1 every difficulty will vanish2 and if a partial failure be at first made1 yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second trial4 ,a sucking-pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in the engraving 7and also in coloured plate ,s71 and the first point to be attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase1 by carrying the knife quickly and neatly round the circular line1 as shown by the figures #a1 #b1 #c2--the shoulder will then easily come away4 ,the next step is to take off the leg2 and this is done in the same way1 by cutting round this joint in the direction shown by the figures #a1 #b1 #c1 in the same way as the shoulder4 ,the ribs then stand fairly open to the knife1 which should be carried down in the direction of the line #d to #e2 and two or three helpings will dispose of these4 ,the other half of the pig is served1 of course1 in the same manner4 ,different parts of the pig are variously esteemed2 some preferring the flesh of the neck2 others1 the ribs2 and others1 again1 the shoulders4 ,the truth is1 the whole of a sucking-pig is delicious1 delicate eating2 but1 in carving it1 the host should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests1 keeping the larger joints1 generally1 for the gentlemen of the party4 ,,ham4 ,illustration3 ,,ham4 #hdc4 ,in cutting a ham1 the carver must be guided according as he desires to practise economy1 or have1 at once1 fine slices out of the prime part4 ,under the first supposition1 he will commence at the knuckle end1 and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham4 ,to reach the choicer portion1 the knife1 which must be very sharp and thin1 should be carried quite down to the bone1 in the direction of the line #a to #b4 ,the slices should be thin and even1 and always cut down to the bone4 ,there are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top1 and then slicing pieces off inside the hole1 gradually enlarging the circle2 but we think this a plan not to be recommended4 ,a ham1 when hot1 is usually sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle2 when cold1 it is served in the manner shown by coloured plate ,p4 ,,leg ,,of ,,pork4 ,illustration3 ,,leg ,,of ,,pork4 #hdd4 ,this joint1 which is such a favourite one with many people1 is easy to carve4 ,the knife should be carried sharply down to the bone1 clean through the crackling1 in the direction of the line #a to #b4 ,sago and onion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with this dish1--sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed1--and the guests should be asked if they will have either or both4 ,a frequent plan1 and we think a good one1 is now pursued1 of sending sage and onion to table separately from the joint1 as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this stuffing is agreeable4 ,note4--,the other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as to their carving or helping4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,the ,,calf4 #hde4 ,,any ,,remarks ,,made ,,on ,,the ,,calf ,,or ,,the ,,lamb must naturally be in a measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the parent stock of either4 ,as the calf1 at least as far as it is identified with veal1 is destined to die young1--to be1 indeed1 cut off in its comparative infancy1--it may1 at first sight1 appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what particular variety1 or breed of the general stock1 his sire or dam may belong4 ,the great art1 however1 in the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable1 but1 at the same time1 a constitution free from all taint1 a frame that shall rapidly attain bulk and stature1 and a disposition so kindly that every quantum of food it takes shall1 without drawback or procrastination1 be eliminated into fat and muscle4 ,the breed1 then1 is of very considerable consequence in determining1 not only the quality of the meat to the consumer1 but its commercial value to the breeder and butcher4 #hdf4 ,,under ,,the ,,artificial ,,system adopted in the rearing of domestic cattle1 and stock in general1 to gratify the arbitrary mandates of luxury and fashion1 we can have veal1 like lamb1 at all seasons in the market1 though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its appearance is about the beginning of ,february4 #hdg4 ,,the ,,cow ,,goes ,,with ,,young ,,for ,,nine ,,months1 and the affection and solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness mid intensity than is displayed by any other animal2 and her distress when she hears its bleating1 and is not allowed to reach it with her distended udders1 is often painful to witness1 and when the calf has died1 or been accidentally killed1 her grief frequently makes her refuse to give down her milk4 ,at such times1 the breeder has adopted the expedient of flaying the dead carcase1 and1 distending the skin with hay1 lays the effigy before her1 and then taking advantage of her solicitude1 milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue4 #hdh4 ,,in ,a ,,state ,,of ,,nature1 the cow1 like the deer1 hides her young in the tall ferns and brakes1 and the most secret places2 and only at stated times1 twice or thrice a day1 quits the herd1 and1 hastening to the secret cover1 gives suck to her calf1 and with the same1 circumspection returns to the community4 #hdi4 ,,in ,,some ,,countries1 to please the epicurean taste of vitiated appetites1 it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately after birth1 and any accident that forestalls that event1 is considered to enhance its value4 ,we are happy to say1 however1 that in this country1 as far as ,england and ,scotland are concerned1 the taste for very young veal has entirely gone out1 and ,staggering ,bob1 as the poor little animal was called in the language of the shambles1 is no longer to be met with in such a place4 #hej4 ,,the ,,weaning ,,of ,,calves is a process that requires a great amount of care and judgment2 for though they are in reality not weaned till between the eighth and the twelfth week1 the process of rearing them by hand commences in fact from the birth1 the calf never being allowed to suck its dam4 ,as the rearing of calves for the market is a very important and lucrative business1 the breeder generally arranges his stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same time2 and then1 by setting aside one or two1 to find food for the entire family1 gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of milk1 to carry on the operations of his dairy4 ,some people have an idea that skimmed milk1 if given in sufficient quantity1 is good enough for the weaning period of calf-feeding2 but this is a very serious mistake1 for the cream1 of which it has been deprived1 contained nearly all the oleaginous principles1 and the azote or nitrogen1 on which the vivifying properties of that fluid depends4 ,indeed1 so remarkably correct has this fact proved to be1 that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with five of water1 will thrive and look well2 while another1 treated with unlimited skimmed milk1 will be poor1 thin1 and miserable4 #hea4 ,,it ,,is ,,sometimes ,a ,,matter ,,of ,,considerable ,,trouble to induce the blundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck1 and that he will do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge of imbibition1 that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk1 and1 opening his mouth1 pour the contents down his throat4 ,the manner1 however1 by which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction1 is by putting his allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl2 the nurse then puts her hand into the milk1 and1 by bending her fingers upwards1 makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his lips1 when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers1 causes the milk to rise along them into his mouth4 ,in this manner one by one the whole family are to be fed three times a day2 care being taken1 that new-born calves are not1 at first1 fed on milk from a cow who has some days calved4 #heb4 ,,as ,,the ,,calf ,,progresses ,,towards ,,his ,,tenth ,,week1 his diet requires to be increased in quantity and quality2 for these objects1 his milk can be thickened with flour or meal1 and small pieces of softened oil-cake are to be slipped into his mouth after sucking1 that they may dissolve there1 till he grows familiar with1 and to like the taste1 when it may be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water4 ,after a time1 sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable quantities2 then succulent grasses2 and finally1 hay may be added to the others4 ,some farmers1 desirous of rendering their calves fat for the butcher in as short a time as possible1 forget both the natural weakness of the digestive powers1 and the contracted volume of the stomach1 and allow the animals either to suck ad libitum1 or give them1 if brought up at the pail or by hand1 a larger quantity of milk than they can digest4 ,the idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to their minds4 ,they suppose that the more food the young creature consumes1 the sooner it will be fat1 and they allow it no exercise whatever1 for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh4 ,under such circumstances1 the stomach soon becomes deranged2 its functions are no longer capable of acting2 the milk1 subjected to the acid of the stomach1 coagulates1 and forms a hardened mass of curd1 when the muscles become affected with spasms1 and death frequently ensues4 #hec4 ,,there ,,was ,,no ,,species ,,of ,,slaughtering practised in this country so inhuman and disgraceful as that1 till very lately1 employed in killing this poor animal2 when1 under the plea of making the flesh white1 the calf was bled day by day1 till1 when the final hour came1 the animal was unable to stand4 ,this inhumanity is1 we believe1 now everywhere abolished1 and the calf is at once killed1 and with the least amount of pain2 a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck1 severing all the large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae4 ,the skin is then taken off to the knee1 which is disjointed1 and to the head1 which is removed2 it is then reflected backwards1 and the carcase having been opened and dressed1 is kept apart by stretchers1 and the thin membrane1 the caul1 extended over the organs left in the carcase1 as the kidneys and sweet-bread2 some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole interior1 giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat1 that is thought to add to its beauty2 the whole is then hung up to cool and harden4 #hed4 ,,the ,,manner ,,of ,,cutting ,,up ,,veal for the ,english market is to divide the carcase into four quarters1 with eleven ribs to each fore quarter2 which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,of ,a ,,calf1 ,,showing ,,the ,,several ,,joints4 ,hind quarter3-- #a4 ,the loin4 #b4 ,the chump1 consisting of the rump and hock-bone4 #c4 ,the fillet4 #d4 ,the hock1 or hind knuckle4 ,fore quarter3-- #e4 ,the shoulder4 #f4 ,the neck4 #g4 ,the breast4 #h4 ,the fore knuckle4 #hee4 ,,the ,,several ,,parts ,,of ,a ,,moderately-,,sized ,,well-,,fed ,,calf1 about eight weeks old1 are nearly of the following weights3--loin and chump #ah lbs41 fillet #ab-a_/b lbs41 hind knuckle #e-a_/b lbs41 shoulder #aa lbs1 neck #aa lbs41 breast #i lbs41 and fore knuckle #e lbs42 making a total of #add lbs4 weight4 ,the ,london mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than that pursued in ,edinburgh1 as giving three roasting joints1 and one boiling1 in each quarter2 besides the pieces being more equally divided1 as regards flesh1 and from the handsomer appearance they make on the table4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,baked ,,veal 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hef4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of cold roast veal1 a few slices of bacon1 #a pint of bread crumbs1 #a_/b pint of good veal gravy1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a blade of pounded mace1 cayenne and salt to taste1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,mince finely the veal and bacon2 add the bread crumbs1 gravy1 and seasoning1 and stir these ingredients well together4 ,beat up the eggs thoroughly2 add these1 mix the whole well together1 put into a dish1 and bake from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,when liked1 a little good gravy may be served in a tureen as an accompaniment4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,roast ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 #heg4 ,,ingredients4--,veal2 a little flour4 ,mode4--,wash the veal1 well wipe it1 and dredge it with flour2 put it down to a bright fire1 not too near1 as it should not be scorched4 ,baste it plentifully until done2 dish it1 pour over the meat some good melted butter1 and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut lemon4 ,time4--,from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,stewed ,,breast ,,of ,,veal ,,and ,,peas4 #heh4 ,,ingredients4--,breast of veal1 #b oz4 of butter1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley2 #b blades of pounded mace1 #b cloves1 #e or #f young onions1 #a strip of lemon-peel1 #f allspice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of sherry1 #b tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 green peas4 ,mode4--,cut the breast in half1 after removing the bone underneath1 and divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces4 ,put the butter into a frying-pan1 lay in the pieces of veal1 and fry until of a nice brown colour4 ,now place these in a stewpan with the herbs1 mace1 cloves1 onions1 lemon-peel1 allspice1 and seasoning2 pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the meat2 well close the lid1 and let the whole simmer very gently for about #b hours4 ,strain off as much gravy as is required1 thicken it with butter and flour1 add the remaining ingredients1 skim well1 let it simmer for about #aj minutes1 then pour it over the meat4 ,have ready some green peas1 boiled separately2 sprinkle these over the veal1 and serve4 ,it may be garnished with forcemeat balls1 or rashers of bacon curled and fried4 ,instead of cutting up the meat1 many persons prefer it dressed whole2--in that case it should be half-roasted before the water1 c4 are put to it4 ,time4--#b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #h-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,breeding ,,of ,,calves4--,the forwarding of calves to maturity1 whether intended to be reared for stock1 or brought to an early market as veal1 is always a subject of great importance1 and requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection of the best course1 to adopt for either end4 ,when meant to be reared as stock1 the breeding should be so arranged that the cow shall calve about the middle of ,may4 ,as our subject1 however1 has more immediate reference to the calf as meat than as stock1 we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure adopted in the former case2 and here1 the first process adopted is that of weaning2 which consists in separating the calf entirely from the cow1 but1 at the same time1 rearing it on the mother's milk4 ,as the business of the dairy would be suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young1 and butter1 cheese1 and cream become desiderata1--things to be desired1 but not possessed1 a system of economical husbandry becomes necessary1 so as to retain our dairy produce1 and yet1 for some weeks at least1 nourish the calf on its mother's milk1 but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself3 this1 with the proper substituted food on which to rear the young animal1 is called weaning4 ,,veal ,,cake 7a ,convenient ,dish for a ,picnic74 #hei4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold roast veal1 a few slices of cold ham1 #b hard-boiled eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 a little pepper1 good gravy4 ,mode4--,cut off all the brown outside from the veal1 and cut the eggs into slices4 ,procure a pretty mould2 lay veal1 ham1 eggs1 and parsley in layers1 with a little pepper between each1 and when the mould is full1 get some strong stock1 and fill up the shape4 ,bake for #a_/b hour1 and when cold1 turn it out4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,calf',s ,,feet ,,and ,,parsley ,,and ,,butter4 #hfj4 ,,ingredients4--#b calf's feet1 #b slices of bacon1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice1 salt and whole pepper to taste1 #a onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #d cloves1 #a blade of mace1 water1 parsley and butter ,no4 #dic4 ,mode4--,procure #b white calf's feet2 bone them as far as the first joint1 and put them into warm water to soak for #b hours4 ,then put the bacon1 butter1 lemon-juice1 onion1 herbs1 spices1 and seasoning into a stewpan2 lay in the feet1 and pour in just sufficient water to cover the whole4 ,stew gently for about #c hours2 take out the feet1 dish them1 and cover with parsley and butter1 made by recipe ,no4 #dic4 ,the liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use3 it will be found very good as an addition to gravies1 c4 c4 ,time4--,rather more than #c hours4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,when ,a ,,calf ,,should ,,be ,,killed4--,the age at which a calf ought to be killed should not be under four weeks3 before that time the flesh is certainly not wholesome1 wanting firmness1 due development of muscular fibre1 and those animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend1 whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the contrary4 ,in ,france1 a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of calves under six weeks of age4 ,the calf is considered in prime condition at ten weeks1 when he will weigh from sixteen to eighteen stone1 and sometimes even twenty4 ,,fricasseed ,,calf',s ,,feet4 #hfa4 ,,ingredients4--,a set of calf's feet2 for the batter allow for each egg #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a tablespoonful of bread crumbs1 hot lard or clarified dripping1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,if the feet are purchased uncleaned1 dip them into warm water repeatedly1 and scrape off the hair1 first one foot and then the other1 until the skin looks perfectly clean1 a saucepan of water being kept by the fire until they are finished4 ,after washing and soaking in cold water1 boil them in just sufficient water to cover them1 until the bones come easily away4 ,then pick them out1 and after straining the liquor into a clean vessel1 put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day4 ,now cut it down in slices about #a_/b inch thick1 lay on them a stiff batter made of egg1 flour1 and bread crumbs in the above proportion2 season with pepper and salt1 and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard4 ,fry the slices a nice brown1 dry them before the fire for a minute or two1 dish them on a napkin1 and garnish with tufts of parsley4 ,this should be eaten with melted butter1 mustard1 and vinegar4 ,be careful to have the lard boiling to set the batter1 or the pieces of feet will run about the pan4 ,the liquor they were boiled in should be saved1 and will be found useful for enriching gravies1 making jellies1 e4 e4 ,time4--,about #c hours to stew the feet1 #aj or #ae minutes to fry them4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,this dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons4 ,,colour ,,of ,,veal4--,as whiteness of flesh is considered a great advantage in veal1 butchers1 in the selection of their calves1 are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth1 and noting the colour of the calf's eyes2 alleging that1 from the signs they there see1 they can prognosticate whether the veal will be white or florid4 ,,collared ,,calf',s ,,head4 #hfb4 ,,ingredients4--,a calf's head1 #d tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 #d blades of pounded mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 white pepper to taste1 a few thick slices of ham1 the yolks of #f eggs boiled hard4 ,mode4--,scald the head for a few minutes2 take it out of the water1 and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair4 ,clean it nicely1 divide the head and remove the brains4 ,boil it tender enough to take out the bones1 which will be in about #b hours4 ,when the head is boned1 flatten it on the table1 sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley1 then a layer of ham1 and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a seasoning of pounded mace1 nutmeg1 and white pepper between each layer2 roll the head up in a cloth1 and tie it up as tightly as possible4 ,boil it for #d hours1 and when it is taken out of the pot1 place a heavy weight on the top1 the same as for other collars4 ,let it remain till cold2 then remove the cloth and binding1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,time4--,altogether #f hours4 ,average cost1 #es4 to #gs4 each4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,feeding ,a ,,calf4--,the amount of milk necessary for a calf for some time1 will be about four quarts a day1 though1 after the first fortnight1 that quantity should be gradually increased1 according to its development of body1 when1 if fed exclusively on milk1 as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for the due health and requirements of the animal4 ,if the weather is fine and genial1 it should be turned into an orchard or small paddock for a few hours each day1 to give it an opportunity to acquire a relish for the fresh pasture1 which1 by the tenth or twelfth week1 it will begin to nibble and enjoy4 ,after a certain time1 the quantity of milk may be diminished1 and its place supplied by water thickened with meal4 ,hay-tea and linseed-jelly are also highly nutritious substances1 and may be used either as adjuncts or substitutes4 ,,fricasseed ,,calf',s ,,head 7an ,entree74 #hfc4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a boiled calf's head1 #a-a_/b pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a onion minced1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 salt and white pepper to taste1 thickening of butter and flour1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 forcemeat balls4 ,mode4--,remove all the bones from the head1 and cut the meat into nice square pieces4 ,put #a-a_/b pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan1 with mace1 onion1 herbs1 and seasoning in the above proportion2 let this simmer gently for #c_/d hour1 then strain it and put in the meat4 ,when quite hot through1 thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour1 and1 just before dishing the fricassee1 put in the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice2 but be particular1 after these two latter ingredients are added1 that the sauce does not boil1 or it will curdle4 ,garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled bacon4 ,to insure the sauce being smooth1 it is a good plan to dish the meat first1 and then to add the eggs to the gravy3 when these are set1 the sauce may be poured over the meat4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,,calf',s ,,head a la ,maitre d',hotel4 #hfd4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold calf's head1 rather more than #a_/b pint of ,maitre d'htel sauce ,no4 #dff4 ,mode4--,make the sauce by recipe ,no4 #dff1 and have it sufficiently thick that it may nicely cover the meat2 remove the bones from the head1 and cut the meat into neat slices4 ,when the sauce is ready1 lay in the meat2 let it gradually warm through1 and1 after it boils up1 let it simmer very gently for #e minutes1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #as4 #b;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,the ,,calf ,,in ,,america4--,in ,america1 the calf is left with the mother for three or four days1 when it is removed1 and at once fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel1 #a quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in #ab quarts of water4 ,one quart of this certainly nutritious gruel1 is to be given1 lukewarm1 morning and evening4 ,in ten days1 a bundle of soft hay is put beside the calf1 which he soon begins to eat1 and1 at the same time1 some of the dry meal is placed in his manger for him to lick4 ,this process1 gradually increasing the quantity of gruel twice a day1 is continued for two months1 till the calf is fit to go to grass1 and1 as it is said1 with the best possible success4 ,but1 in this country1 the mode pointed out in ,no4 #hfb has received the sanction of the best experience4 ,,curried ,,veal 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hfe4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast veal1 #d onions1 #b apples sliced1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of broth or water1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,slice the onions and apples1 and fry them in a little butter2 then take them out1 cut the meat into neat cutlets1 and fry these of a pale brown2 add the curry-powder and flour1 put in the onion1 apples1 and a little broth or water1 and stew gently till quite tender2 add the lemon-juice1 and serve with an edging of boiled rice4 ,the curry may be ornamented with pickles1 capsicums1 and gherkins arranged prettily on the top4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,,cutlets 7an ,entree74 #hff4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c lbs4 of the prime part of the leg of veal1 egg and bread crumbs1 #c tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs1 salt and popper to taste1 a small piece of butter4 ,illustration3 ,,veal ,,cutlets4 ,mode4--,have the veal cut into slices about #c_/d of an inch in thickness1 and1 if not cut perfectly even1 level the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin4 ,shape and trim the cutlets1 and brush them over with egg4 ,sprinkle with bread crumbs1 with which have been mixed minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and press the crumbs down4 ,fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter1 and be careful not to burn them4 ,they should be very thoroughly done1 but not dry4 ,if the cutlets be thick1 keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a good distance from the fire1 after they have acquired a good colour3 by this means1 the meat will be done through4 ,lay the cutlets in a dish1 keep them hot1 and make a gravy in the pan as follows3 ,dredge in a little flour1 add a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 brown it1 then pour as much boiling water as is required over it1 season with pepper and salt1 add a little lemon-juice1 give one boil1 and pour it over the cutlets4 ,they should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon1 and a few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this dish4 ,time4--,for cutlets of a moderate thickness1 about #ab minutes2 if very thick1 allow more time4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown2 the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe4 ,they may also be cut from the loin or neck1 as shown in the engraving4 ,,broiled ,,veal ,,cutlets a l',italienne 7an ,entree74 #hfg4 ,,ingredients4--,neck of veal1 salt and pepper to taste1 the yolk of #a egg1 bread crumbs1 #a_/b pint of ,italian sauce ,no4 #dec4 ,mode4--,cut the veal into cutlets1 flatten and trim them nicely2 powder over them a little salt and pepper2 brush them over with the yolk of an egg1 dip them into bread crumbs1 then into clarified butter1 and1 afterwards1 in the bread crumbs again2 broil or fry them over a clear fire1 that they may acquire a good brown colour4 ,arrange them in the dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham1 and pour the sauce1 made by recipe ,no4 #dec1 in the middle4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes1 according to the thickness of the cutlets4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,the ,,calf',s-,,head ,,club4--,when the restoration of ,charles ,,ii4 took the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the ,commonwealth period1 and gave a loose rein to the long-compressed spirits of the people1 there still remained a large section of society wedded to the former state of things4 ,the elders of this party retired from public sight1 where1 unoffended by the reigning saturnalia1 they might dream in seclusion over their departed ,utopia4 ,the young bloods of this school1 however1 who were compelled to mingle in the world1 yet detesting the politics which had become the fashion1 adopted a novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments1 and mark their contempt of the reigning family4 ,they accordingly met1 in considerable numbers1 at some convenient inn1 on the #cjth of ,january in each year1--the anniversary of ,charles's death1 and dined together off a feast prepared from calves' heads1 dressed in every possible variety of way1 and with an abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the house of ,stuart1 and glory to the memory of old ,holl ,cromwell2 and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard1 the club of fast young ,puritans1 with their white handkerchiefs stained red in wine1 and one of the party in a mask1 bearing an axe1 followed by the chairman1 carrying a calf's head pinned up in a napkin1 marched in mock procession to the bonfire1 into which1 with great shouts and uproar1 they flung the enveloped head4 ,this odd custom was continued for some time1 and even down to the early part of this century it was customary for men of republican politics always to dine off calf's head on the #cjth of ,january4 ,,veal ,,cutlets a la ,maintenon 7an ,entree74 #hfh4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c lbs4 of veal cutlets1 egg and bread crumbs1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 a little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,cut the cutlets about #c_/d inch in thickness1 flatten them1 and brush them over with the yolk of an egg2 dip them into bread crumbs and minced herbs1 season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg1 and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper4 ,broil them1 and send them to table with melted butter or a good gravy4 ,time4--,from #ae to #ah minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,a ,,la ,,bourgeoise4 7,excellent47 #hfi4 ,,ingredients4--#b to #c lbs4 of the loin or neck of veal1 #aj or #ab young carrots1 a bunch of green onions1 #b slices of lean bacon1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 a few new potatoes1 #a pint of green peas4 ,mode4--,cut the veal into cutlets1 trim them1 and put the trimmings into a stewpan with a little butter2 lay in the cutlets and fry them a nice brown colour on both sides4 ,add the bacon1 carrots1 onions1 spice1 herbs1 and seasoning2 pour in about a pint of boiling water1 and stew gently for #b hours on a very slow fire4 ,when done1 skim off the fat1 take out the herbs1 and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and ketchup4 ,have ready the peas and potatoes1 boiled separately2 put them with the veal1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august with peas2--rather earlier when these are omitted4 ,,scotch ,,collops 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hgj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast veal1 a little butter1 flour1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a onion1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel1 #b tablespoonfuls of sherry1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets1 rather larger than a crown-piece2 flour the meat well1 and fry a light brown in butter2 dredge again with flour1 and add #a_/b pint of water1 pouring it in by degrees2 set it on the fire1 and when it boils1 add the onion and mace1 and let it simmer very gently about #c_/d hour2 flavour the gravy with lemon-juice1 peel1 wine1 and ketchup1 in the above proportion2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,scotch ,,collops1 ,,white 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hga4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast veal1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #b blades of pounded mace1 cayenne and salt to taste1 a little butter1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/d pint of water1 #a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a teaspoonful of lemon-peel1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a tablespoonful of sherry4 ,mode4--,cut the veal into thin slices about #c inches in width2 hack them with a knife1 and grate on them the nutmeg1 mace1 cayenne1 and salt1 and fry them in a little butter4 ,dish them1 and make a gravy in the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients4 ,give one boil1 and pour it over the collops2 garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon1 rolled4 ,forcemeat balls may be added to this dish4 ,if cream is not at hand1 substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk4 ,time4--,about #e or #g minutes4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,october4 ,,cooking ,,collops4--,dean ,ramsay1 who tells us1 in his ,reminiscences of ,scottish ,life and ,character1 a number of famous stories of the strong-headed1 warm-hearted1 and plain-spoken old dames of the north1 gives1 amongst them1 the following3--,a strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the character of a cook she was about to hire4 ,the lady who was giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral qualifications1 and described her as a very decent woman2 to which the astounding reply--this was #fj years ago1 and a ,dean tells the story--,oh1 d--n her decency2 can she make good collops8 ,,roast ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 #hgb4 ,,ingredients4--,veal1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 melted butter4 ,mode4--,have the fillet cut according to the size required2 take out the bone1 and after raising the skin from the meat1 put under the flap a nice forcemeat1 made by recipe ,no4 #dag4 ,prepare sufficient of this1 as there should be some left to eat cold1 and to season and flavour a mince if required4 ,skewer and bind the veal up in a round form2 dredge well with flour1 put it down at some distance from the fire at first1 and baste continually4 ,about #a_/b hour before serving1 draw it nearer the fire1 that it may acquire more colour1 as the outside should be of a rich brown1 but not burnt4 ,dish it1 remove the skewers1 which replace by a silver one2 pour over the joint some good melted butter1 and serve with either boiled ham1 bacon1 or pickled pork4 ,never omit to send a cut lemon to table with roast veal4 ,illustration3 ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 ,time4--,a fillet of veal weighing #ab lbs41 about #d hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #i or #aj persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,stewed ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 #hgc4 ,,ingredients4--,a small fillet of veal1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 thickening of butter and flour1 a few mushrooms1 white pepper to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a_/b glass of sherry4 ,mode4--,if the whole of the leg is purchased1 take off the knuckle to stew1 and also the square end1 which will serve for cutlets or pies4 ,remove the bone1 and fill the space with a forcemeat ,no4 #dag4 ,roll and skewer it up firmly2 place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to prevent the meat from sticking1 and cover the veal with a little weak stock4 ,let it simmer very gently until tender1 as the more slowly veal is stewed1 the better4 ,strain and thicken the sauce1 flavour it with lemon-juice1 mace1 sherry1 and white pepper2 give one boil1 and pour it over the meat4 ,the skewers should be removed1 and replaced by a silver one1 and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon4 ,time4--,a4 fillet of veal weighing #f lbs41 #c hours' very gentle stewing4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,the ,,golden ,,calf4--,we are told in the book of ,genesis1 that ,aaron1 in the lengthened absence of ,moses1 was constrained by the impatient people to make them an image to worship2 and that ,aaron1 instead of using his delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes1 and appease the discontented ,jews1 at once complied with their demand1 and1 telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets1 fashioned out of their willing contributions a calf of gold1 before which the multitude fell down and worshipped4 ,whether this image was a solid figure of gold1 or a wooden effigy merely1 coated with metal1 is uncertain4 ,to suppose the former1--knowing the size of the image made from such trifling articles as rings1 we must presuppose the ,israelites to have spoiled the ,egyptians most unmercifully3 the figure1 however1 is of more consequence than the weight or size of the idol4 ,that the ,israelite brought away more from ,goshen than the plunder of the ,egyptians1 and that they were deeply imbued with ,egyptian superstition1 the golden calf is only one1 out of many instances of proof2 for a gilded ox1 covered with a pall1 was in that country an emblem of ,osiris1 one of the gods of the ,egyptian trinity4 ,besides having a sacred cow1 and many varieties of the holy bull1 this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the sun1 and offered to it divine honours1 as the emblem of frugality1 industry1 and husbandry4 ,it is therefore probable that1 in borrowing so familiar a type1 the ,israelites1 in their calf-worship1 meant1 under a well-understood cherubic symbol1 to acknowledge the full force of those virtues1 under an emblem of divine power and goodness4 ,the prophet ,hosea is full of denunciations against calf-worship in ,israel1 and alludes to the custom of kissing these idols1 ,hosea1 viii1 #d-f4 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal 7an ,entree74 #hgd4 ,,ingredients4--,a piece of the fat side of a leg of veal 7about #c lbs471 lardoons1 #b carrots1 #b large onions1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #f whole allspice1 #b bay-leaves1 pepper to taste1 a few slices of fat bacon1 #a pint of stock ,no4 #ajg4 ,illustration3 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal4 ,mode4--,the veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality1 or it will not be good4 ,it may be known by the meat being white and not thready4 ,take off the skin1 flatten the veal on the table1 then at one stroke of the knife1 cut off as much as is required1 for a fricandeau with an uneven surface never looks well4 ,trim it1 and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle1 that it may taste more of the seasoning4 ,now lard it thickly with fat bacon1 as lean gives a red colour to the fricandeau4 ,slice the vegetables1 and put these1 with the herbs and spices1 in the middle of a stewpan1 with a few slices of bacon at the top3 these should form a sort of mound in the centre for the veal to rest upon4 ,lay the fricandeau over the bacon1 sprinkle over it a little salt1 and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon1 c41 without touching the veal4 ,let it gradually come to a boil2 then put it over a slow and equal fire1 and let it simmer very gently for about #b-a_/b hours1 or longer should it be very large4 ,baste it frequently with the liquor1 and a short time before serving1 put it into a brisk oven1 to make the bacon firm1 which otherwise would break when it was glazed4 ,dish the fricandeau1 keep it hot1 skim off the fat from the liquor1 and reduce it quickly to a glaze1 with which glaze the fricandeau1 and serve with a pure of whatever vegetable happens to be in season--spinach1 sorrel1 asparagus1 cucumbers1 peas1 c4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours4 ,if very large1 allow more time4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal 7,more economical47 #hge4 ,,ingredients4--,the best end of a neck of veal 7about #b-a_/b lbs471 lardoons1 #b carrots1 #b onions1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #b blades of mace1 #b bay-leaves1 a little whole white pepper1 a few slices of fat bacon4 ,mode4--,cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a sharp knife1 scooping it from the bones4 ,put the bones in with a little water1 which will serve to moisten the fricandeau3 they should stew about #a-a_/b hour4 ,lard the veal1 proceed in the same way as in the preceding recipe1 and be careful that the gravy does not touch the fricandeau4 ,stew very gently for #c hours2 glaze1 and serve it on sorrel1 spinach1 or with a little gravy in the dish4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,when the prime part of the leg is cut off1 it spoils the whole2 consequently1 to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant4 ,the best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well4 ,,boiled ,,calf',s ,,head 7with the ,skin on74 #hgf4 ,,ingredients4--,calf's head1 boiling water1 bread crumbs1 #a large bunch of parsley1 butter1 white pepper and salt to taste1 #d tablespoonfuls of melted butter1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #b or #c grains of cayenne4 ,mode4--,put the head into boiling water1 and let it remain by the side of the fire for #c or #d minutes2 take it out1 hold it by the ear1 and with the back of a knife1 scrape off the hair 7should it not come off easily1 dip the head again into boiling water74 ,when perfectly clean1 take the eyes out1 cut off the ears1 and remove the brain1 which soak for an hour in warm water4 ,put the head into hot water to soak for a few minutes1 to make it look white1 and then have ready a stewpan1 into which lay the head2 cover it with cold water1 and bring it gradually to boil4 ,remove the scum1 and add a little salt1 which assists to throw it up4 ,simmer it very gently from #b-a_/b to #c hours1 and when nearly done1 boil the brains for #a_/d hour2 skin and chop them1 not too finely1 and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and stir the brains1 parsley1 c41 into about #d tablespoonfuls of melted butter2 add the lemon-juice and cayenne1 and keep these hot by the side of the fire4 ,take up the head1 cut out the tongue1 skin it1 put it on a small dish with the brains round it2 sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley2 brown these before the fire1 and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter1 and either boiled bacon1 ham1 or pickled pork as an accompaniment4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 according to the season1 from #cs4 to #gs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #h or #i persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,boiled ,,calf',s ,,head 7without the ,skin74 #hgg4 ,,ingredients4--,calf's head1 water1 a little salt1 #d tablespoonfuls of melted butter1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,illustration3 ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,illustration3 ,,half ,a ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,mode4--,after the head has been thoroughly cleaned1 and the brains removed1 soak it in warm water to blanch it4 ,lay the brains also into warm water to soak1 and let them remain for about an hour4 ,put the head into a stewpan1 with sufficient cold water to cover it1 and when it boils1 add a little salt2 take off every particle of scum as it rises1 and boil the head until perfectly tender4 ,boil the brains1 chop them1 and mix with them melted butter1 minced parsley1 pepper1 salt1 and lemon-juice in the above proportion4 ,take up the head1 skin the tongue1 and put it on a small dish with the brains round it4 ,have ready some parsley and butter1 smother the head with it1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,bacon1 ham1 pickled pork1 or a pig's cheek1 are indispensable with calf's head4 ,the brains are sometimes chopped with hard-boiled eggs1 and mixed with a little ,bchamel or white sauce4 ,time4--,from #a-a_/b to #b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 according to the season1 from #cs4 to #es4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,the liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved3 it makes excellent soup1 and will be found a nice addition to gravies1 c4 ,half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one1 it being a more convenient-sized joint for a small family4 ,it is cooked in the same manner1 and served with the same sauces1 as in the preceding recipe4 ,,hashed ,,calf',s ,,head 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hgh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold boiled calf's head1 #a quart of the liquor in which it was boiled1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a onion1 #a carrot1 a strip of lemon-peel1 #b blades of pounded mace1 salt and white pepper to taste1 a very little cayenne1 rather more than #b tablespoonfuls of sherry1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 forcemeat balls4 ,mode4--,cut the meat into neat slices1 and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was boiled in4 ,add a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a onion1 #a carrot1 a strip of lemon-peel1 and #b blades of pounded mace1 and let these boil for #a hour1 or until the gravy is reduced nearly half4 ,strain it into a clean stewpan1 thicken it with a little butter and flour1 and add a flavouring of sherry1 lemon-juice1 and ketchup1 in the above proportion2 season with pepper1 salt1 and a little cayenne2 put in the meat1 let it gradually warm through1 but not boil more than two or three minutes4 ,garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon rolled and toasted1 placed alternately1 and send it to table very hot4 ,time4--,altogether #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the remains of the head1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,,collops 7an ,entree74 #hgi4 ,,ingredients4--,about #b lbs4 of the prime part of the leg of veal1 a few slices of bacon1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 cayenne to taste1 egg and bread crumbs1 gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the veal into long thin collops1 flatten them1 and lay on each a piece of thin bacon of the same size2 have ready some forcemeat1 made by recipe ,no4 #dag1 which spread over the bacon1 sprinkle over all a little cayenne1 roll them up tightly1 and do not let them be more than #b inches long4 ,skewer each one firmly1 egg and bread crumb them1 and fry them a nice brown in a little butter1 turning them occasionally1 and shaking the pan about4 ,when done1 place them on a dish before the fire2 put a small piece of butter in the pan1 dredge in a little flour1 add #a_/d pint of water1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice1 a seasoning of salt1 pepper1 and pounded mace2 let the whole boil up1 and pour it over the collops4 ,time4--,from #aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,calf',s ,,liver ,,aux ,,fines ,,herbes ,,sauce ,,piquante4 #hhj4 ,,ingredients4--,a calf's liver1 flour1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley2 when liked1 #b minced shalots2 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #a tablespoonful of vinegar1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/d pint water4 ,mode4--,procure a calf's liver as white as possible1 and cut it into slices of a good and equal shape4 ,dip them in flour1 and fry them of a good colour in a little butter4 ,when they are done1 put them on a dish1 which keep hot before the fire4 ,mince the herbs very fine1 put them in the frying-pan with a little more butter2 add the remaining ingredients1 simmer gently until the herbs are done1 and pour over the liver4 ,time4--,according to the thickness of the slices1 from #e to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,calf',s ,,liver ,,and ,,bacon4 #hha4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c lbs4 of liver1 bacon1 pepper and salt to taste1 a small piece of butter1 flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice1 #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,cut the liver in thin slices1 and cut as many slices of bacon as there are of liver2 fry the bacon first1 and put that on a hot dish before the fire4 ,fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon1 after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very little flour4 ,turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning1 and when done1 lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each4 ,pour away the bacon fat1 put in a small piece of butter1 dredge in a little flour1 add the lemon-juice and water1 give one boil1 and pour it in the middle of the dish4 ,it may be garnished with slices of cut lemon1 or forcemeat balls4 ,time4--,according to the thickness of the slices1 from #e to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,calf',s ,,liver ,,larded ,,and ,,roasted 7an ,entree74 #hhb4 ,,ingredients4--,a calf's liver1 vinegar1 #a onion1 #c or #d sprigs of parsley and thyme1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a bay-leaf1 lardoons1 brown gravy4 ,mode4--,take a fine white liver1 and lard it the same as a fricandeau2 put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices1 parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 and seasoning in the above proportion4 ,let it remain in this pickle for #bd hours1 then roast and baste it frequently with the vinegar1 c42 glaze it1 serve under it a good brown gravy1 or sauce piquante1 and send it to table very hot4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 to which has been added a little fat bacon1 will be found a very savoury dish4 ,it should be larded or wrapped in buttered paper1 and roasted before a clear fire4 ,brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it4 ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal ,,au ,,bechamel 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hhc4 ,,ingredients4--,a small fillet of veal1 #a pint of ,bchamel sauce ,no4 #cfg1 a few bread crumbs1 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,a fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will answer very well for this dish4 ,cut the middle out rather deep1 leaving a good margin round1 from which to cut nice slices1 and if there should be any cracks in the veal1 fill them up with forcemeat4 ,mince finely the meat that was taken out1 mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to flavour1 and stir to it sufficient ,bchamel to make it of a proper consistency4 ,warm the veal in the oven for about an hour1 taking care to baste it well1 that it may not be dry2 put the mince in the place where the meat was taken out1 sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it1 and drop a little clarified butter on the bread crumbs2 put it into the oven for #a_/d hour to brown1 and pour ,bchamel round the sides of the dish4 ,time4--,altogether #a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,to ,,ragout ,a ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal4 #hhd4 ,,ingredients4--,knuckle of veal1 pepper and salt to taste1 flour1 #a onion1 #a head of celery1 or a little celery-seed1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 thickening of butter and flour1 a few young carrots1 #a tablespoonful of ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of tomato sauce1 #c tablespoonfuls of sherry1 the juice of #a_/d lemon4 ,mode4--,cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices1 season with pepper and salt1 and dredge them with flour4 ,fry them in a little butter of a pale brown1 and put them into a stewpan with the bone 7which should be chopped in several places72 add the celery1 herbs1 mace1 and carrots2 pour over all about #a pint of hot water1 and let it simmer very gently for #b hours1 over a slow but clear fire4 ,take out the slices of meat and carrots1 strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour2 add the remaining ingredients1 give one boil1 put back the meat and carrots1 let these get hot through1 and serve4 ,when in season1 a few green peas1 boiled separately1 and added to this dish at the moment of serving1 would be found a very agreeable addition4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 to #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #f persons4 ,,stewed ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal ,,and ,,rice4 #hhe4 ,,ingredients4--,knuckle of veal1 #a onion1 #b blades of mace1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b lb4 of rice4 ,illustration3 ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal4 ,mode4--,have the knuckle cut small1 or cut some cutlets from it1 that it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed1 as cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish4 ,break the shank-bone1 wash it clean1 and put the meat into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it4 ,let it gradually come to a boil1 put in the salt1 and remove the scum as fast as it rises4 ,when it has simmered gently for about #c_/d hour1 add the remaining ingredients1 and stew the whole gently for #b-a_/d hours4 ,put the meat into a deep dish1 pour over it the rice1 c41 and send boiled bacon1 and a tureen of parsley and butter to table with it4 ,time4--,a knuckle of veal weighing #f lbs41 #c hours' gentle stewing4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 to #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,macaroni1 instead of rice1 boiled with the veal1 will be found good2 or the rice and macaroni may be omitted1 and the veal sent to table smothered in parsley and butter4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 #hhf4 ,,ingredients4--,veal2 melted butter4 ,mode4--,paper the kidney fat2 roll in and skewer the flap1 which makes the joint a good shape2 dredge it well with flour1 and put it down to a bright fire4 ,should the loin be very large1 skewer the kidney back for a time to roast thoroughly4 ,keep it well basted1 and a short time before serving1 remove the paper from the kidney1 and allow it to acquire a nice brown colour1 but it should not be burnt4 ,have ready some melted butter1 put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its contents1 pour it over the veal1 and serve4 ,garnish the dish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls1 and send to table with it1 boiled bacon1 ham1 pickled pork1 or pig's cheek4 ,time4--,a large loin1 #c hours4 ,average cost1 #i-a_/b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,a piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the veal is dished4 ,,loin ,,of ,,veal ,,au ,,bechamel 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hhg4 ,,ingredients4--,loin of veal1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 rather more than #a_/b pint of ,bchamel or white sauce4 ,mode4--,a loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken off1 answers very well for this dish4 ,cut off the meat from the inside1 mince it1 and mix with it some minced lemon-peel2 put it into sufficient ,bchamel to warm through4 ,in the mean time1 wrap the joint in buttered paper1 and place it in the oven to warm4 ,when thoroughly hot1 dish the mince1 place the loin above it1 and pour over the remainder of the ,bchamel4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to warm the meat in the oven4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,loin ,,of ,,veal1 a la ,daube4 #hhh4 ,,ingredients4--,the chump end of a loin of veal1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 a few slices of bacon1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b blades of mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole white pepper1 #a pint of veal stock or water1 #e or #f green onions4 ,mode4--,cut off the chump from a loin of veal1 and take out the bone2 fill the cavity with forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 tie it up tightly1 and lay it in a stewpan with the bones and trimmings1 and cover the veal with a few slices of bacon4 ,add the herbs1 mace1 pepper1 and onions1 and stock or water2 cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid1 and simmer for #b hours1 shaking the stewpan occasionally4 ,take out the bacon1 herbs1 and onions2 reduce the gravy1 if not already thick enough1 to a glaze1 with which glaze the meat1 and serve with tomato1 mushroom1 or sorrel sauce4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,minced ,,veal1 with ,bchamel ,sauce 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 7,very ,good47 #hhi4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a fillet of veal1 #a pint of ,bchamel sauce ,no4 #cfg1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 forcemeat balls4 ,mode4--,cut--but do not chop--a few slices of cold roast veal as finely as possible1 sufficient to make rather more than #a lb41 weighed after being minced4 ,make the above proportion of ,bchamel1 by recipe ,no4 #cfg2 add the lemon-peel1 put in the veal1 and let the whole gradually warm through4 ,when it is at the point of simmering1 dish it1 and garnish with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread4 ,time4--,to simmer #a minute4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,minced ,,veal4 7,more ,economical47 #hij4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal1 rather more than #a pint of water1 #a onion1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #b or #c young carrots1 a faggot of sweet herbs1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream or milk4 ,mode4--,take about #a lb4 of veal1 and should there be any bones1 dredge them with flour1 and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside1 and a few meat trimmings2 add rather more than a pint of water1 the onion cut in slices1 lemon-peel1 seasoning1 mace1 carrots1 and herbs2 simmer these well for rather more than #a hour1 and strain the liquor4 ,rub a little flour into some butter2 add this to the gravy1 set it on the fire1 and1 when it boils1 skim well4 ,mince the veal finely by cutting1 and not chopping it2 put it in the gravy2 let it get warmed through gradually2 add the lemon-juice and cream1 and1 when it is on the point of boiling1 serve4 ,garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and slices of bacon rolled and toasted4 ,forcemeat balls may also be added4 ,if more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above1 put a little very finely minced to the veal1 after it is warmed in the gravy4 ,time4--#a hour to make the gravy4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,the ,,calf ,a ,,symbol ,,of ,,divine ,,power4--,a singular symbolical ceremony existed among the ,hebrews1 in which the calf performed a most important part4 ,the calf being a type or symbol of ,divine power1 or what was called the ,elohim1--the ,almighty intelligence that brought them out of ,egypt1--was looked upon much in the same light by the ,jews1 as the cross subsequently was by the ,christians1 a mystical emblem of the ,divine passion and goodness4 ,consequently1 an oath taken on either the calf or the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by ,jew or ,nazarene1 and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on themselves1 and an insult and profanation directly offered to the ,almighty4 ,to render the oath more impressive and solemn1 it was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple1 when1 the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of parts1 and with intervening spaces1 arranged the severed limbs on the marble pavement1 the one1 or all the party1 if there were many individuals1 to be bound by the oath1 repeating the words of the compact1 threaded their way in and out through the different spaces1 till they had taken the circuit of each portion of the divided calf1 when the ceremony was concluded4 ,to avert the anger of the ,lord1 when ,jerusalem was threatened by ,nebuchadnezzar and his ,babylonian host1 the ,jews had made a solemn to ,god1 ratified by the ceremony of the calf1 if ,he released them from their dreaded foe1 to cancel the servitude of their ,hebrew brethren4 ,after investing the city for some time1 and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and privation1 the ,babylonians1 hearing that ,pharaoh1 whom the ,jews had solicited for aid1 was rapidly approaching with a powerful army1 hastily raised the siege1 and1 removing to a distance1 took up a position where they could intercept the ,egyptians1 and still cover the city4 ,no sooner did the ,jews behold the retreat of the enemy1 than they believed all danger was past1 and1 with their usual turpitude1 they repudiated their oath1 and refused to liberate their oppressed countrymen4 ,for this violation of their covenant with the ,lord1 they were given over to all the horrors of the sword1 pestilence1 and famine--,jeremiah1 xxxiv4 #ae-ag4 ,,minced ,,veal ,,and ,,macaroni4 7,a pretty side or corner dish47 #hia4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of minced cold roast veal1 #c oz4 of ham1 #a tablespoonful of gravy1 pepper and salt to taste1 #c teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/d lb4 of macaroni1 #a or #b eggs to bind1 a small piece of butter4 ,mode4--,cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal1 trim off the brown outside1 and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of ham3 should the meat be very dry1 add a spoonful of good gravy4 ,season highly with pepper and salt1 add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs1 and mix these ingredients with #a or #b eggs well beaten1 which should bind the mixture and make it like forcemeat4 ,in the mean time1 boil the macaroni in salt and water1 and drain it2 butter a mould1 put some of the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it1 in whatever form is liked2 mix the remainder with the forcemeat1 fill the mould up to the top1 put a plate or small dish on it1 and steam for #a_/b hour4 ,turn it out carefully1 and serve with good gravy poured round1 but not over1 the meat4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #aj;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,to make a variety1 boil some carrots and turnips separately in a little salt and water2 when done1 cut them into pieces about #a_/h inch in thickness2 butter an oval mould1 and place these in it1 in white and red stripes alternately1 at the bottom and sides4 ,proceed as in the foregoing recipe1 and be very careful in turning it out of the mould4 ,,moulded ,,minced ,,veal 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hib4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of cold roast veal1 a small slice of bacon1 #a_/d teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a_/b onion chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 and pounded mace to taste1 a slice of toast soaked in milk1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,mince the meat very fine1 after removing from it all skin and outside pieces1 and chop the bacon2 mix these well together1 adding the lemon-peel1 onion1 seasoning1 mace1 and toast4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated1 heat up an egg1 with which bind the mixture4 ,butter a shape1 put in the meat1 and hake for #c_/d hour2 turn it out of the mould carefully1 and pour round it a good brown gravy4 ,a sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,braised ,,neck ,,of ,,veal4 #hic4 ,,ingredients4--,the best end of the neck of veal 7from #c to #d lbs471 bacon1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg to taste2 #a onion1 #b carrots1 a little celery 7when this is not obtainable1 use the seed71 #a_/b glass of sherry1 thickening of butter and flour1 lemon-juice1 #a blade of pounded mace4 ,mode4--,prepare the bacon for larding1 and roll it in minced parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg2 lard the veal1 put it into a stewpan with a few slices of lean bacon or ham1 an onion1 carrots1 and celery2 and do not quite cover it with water4 ,stew it gently for #b hours1 or until it is quite tender2 strain off the liquor2 stir together over the fire1 in a stewpan1 a little flour and butter until brown2 lay the veal in this1 the upper side to the bottom of the pan1 and let it remain till of a nice brown colour4 ,place it in the dish2 pour into the stewpan as much gravy as is required1 boil it up1 skim well1 add the wine1 pounded mace1 and lemon-juice2 simmer for #c minutes1 pour it over the meat1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,birth ,,of ,,calves4--,the cow seldom produces more than a single calf2 sometimes1 twins1 and1 very rarely1 three4 ,a ,french newspaper1 however1--the ,nouveau ,bulletin des ,sciences1--gave a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced nine calves in all1 at three successive births1 in three successive years4 ,the first year1 four cow calves2 the second year1 three calves1 two of them females2 the third year1 two calves1 both females4 ,with the exception of two belonging to the first birth1 all were suckled by the mother4 ,,roast ,,neck ,,of ,,veal4 #hid4 ,,ingredients4--,veal1 melted butter1 forcemeat balls4 ,mode4--,have the veal cut from the best end of the neck2 dredge it with flour1 and put it down to a bright clear fire2 keep it well basted2 dish it1 pour over it some melted butter1 and garnish the dish with fried forcemeat balls2 send to table with a cut lemon4 ,the scrag may be boiled or stewed in various ways1 with rice1 onion-sauce1 or parsley and butter4 ,time4--,about #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--#d or #e lbs4 for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,,olive ,,pie 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hie4 ,,ingredients4--,a few thin slices of cold fillet of veal1 a few thin slices of bacon1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 a cupful of gravy1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 puff-crust4 ,mode4--,cut thin slices from a fillet of veal1 place on them thin slices of bacon1 and over them a layer of forcemeat1 made by recipe ,no4 #dag1 with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne2 roll them tightly1 and fill up a pie-dish with them2 add the gravy and cream1 cover with a puff-crust1 and bake for #a to #a-a_/b hour3 should the pie be very large1 allow #b hours4 ,the pieces of rolled veal should be about #c inches in length1 and about #c inches round4 ,time4--,moderate-sized pie1 #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,fried ,,patties 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #hif4 ,,ingredients4--,cold roast veal1 a few slices of cold ham1 #a egg boiled hard1 pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 gravy1 cream1 #a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 good puff-paste4 ,mode4--,mince a little cold veal and ham1 allowing one-third ham to two-thirds veal2 add an egg boiled hard and chopped1 and a seasoning of pounded mace1 salt1 pepper1 and lemon-peel2 moisten with a little gravy and cream4 ,make a good puff-paste2 roll rather thin1 and cut it into round or square pieces2 put the mince between two of them1 pinch the edges to keep in the gravy1 and fry a light brown4 ,they may be also baked in patty-pans3 in that case1 they should be brushed over with the yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven4 ,to make a variety1 oysters may be substituted for the ham4 ,time4--#ae minutes to fry the patties4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,,pie4 #hig4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of veal cutlets1 #a or #b slices of lean bacon or ham1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 crust1 #a teacupful of gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the cutlets into square pieces1 and season them with pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace2 put them in a pie-dish with the savoury herbs sprinkled over1 and #a or #b slices of lean bacon or ham placed at the top3 if possible1 this should be previously cooked1 as undressed bacon makes the veal red1 and spoils its appearance4 ,pour in a little water1 cover with crust1 ornament it in any way that is approved2 brush it over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake in a well-heated oven for about #a-a_/b hour4 ,pour in a good gravy after baking1 which is done by removing the top ornament1 and replacing it after the gravy is added4 ,time4--,about #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,a ,,very ,,veal ,,dinner4--,at a dinner given by ,lord ,polkemmet1 a ,scotch nobleman and judge1 his guests saw1 when the covers were removed1 that the fare consisted of veal broth1 a roasted fillet of veal1 veal cutlets1 a veal pie1 a calf's head1 and calf's-foot jelly4 ,the judge1 observing the surprise of his guests1 volunteered an explanation4--,oh1 ay1 it's a' cauf2 when we kill a beast1 we just eat up ae side1 and doun the tither4 ,,veal ,,and ,,ham ,,pie4 #hih4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of veal cutlets1 #a_/b lb4 of boiled ham1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #b blades of pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 a strip of lemon-peel finely minced1 the yolks of #b hard-boiled eggs1 #a_/b pint of water1 nearly #a_/b pint of good strong gravy1 puff-crust4 ,mode4--,cut the veal into nice square pieces1 and put a layer of them at the bottom of a pie-dish2 sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs1 spices1 seasoning1 lemon-peel1 and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices2 cut the ham very thin1 and put a layer of this in4 ,proceed in this manner until the dish is full1 so arranging it that the ham comes at the top4 ,lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish1 and pour in about #a_/b pint of water2 cover with crust1 ornament it with leaves1 brush it over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake in a well-heated oven for #a to #a-a_/b hour1 or longer1 should the pie be very large4 ,when it is taken out of the oven1 pour in at the top1 through a funnel1 nearly #a_/b pint of strong gravy3 this should be made sufficiently good that1 when cold1 it may cut in a firm jelly4 ,this pie may be very much enriched by adding a few mushrooms1 oysters1 or sweetbreads2 but it will be found very good without any of the last-named additions4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour1 or longer1 should the pie be very large4 ,average cost1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,potted ,,veal 7for ,breakfast74 #hii4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of veal allow #a_/d lb4 of ham1 cayenne and pounded mace to taste1 #f oz4 of fresh butter2 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible1 and pound well in a mortar1 with cayenne1 pounded mace1 and fresh butter in the above proportion4 ,when reduced to a perfectly smooth paste1 press it into potting-pots1 and cover with clarified butter4 ,if kept in a cool place1 it will remain good some days4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,names ,,of ,,calves1 c4--,during the time the young male calf is suckled by his mother1 he is called a bull-or ox-calf2 when turned a year old1 he is called a stirk1 stot1 or yearling2 on the completion of his second year1 he is called a two-year-old bull or steer 7and in some counties a twinter72 then1 a three-year-old steer2 and at four1 an ox or a bullock1 which latter names are retained till death4 ,it may be here remarked1 that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for neat cattle1 in a specific sense1 and irrespective of sex2 as the ,british ox1 the ,indian ox4 ,the female is termed cow1 but while sucking the mother1 a cow-calf2 at the age of a year1 she is called a yearling quey2 in another year1 a heifer1 or twinter2 then1 a three-year-old quey or twinter2 and1 at four years old1 a cow4 ,other names1 to be regarded as provincialisms1 may exist in different districts4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,cold ,,veal 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ijj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold veal1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 thickening of butter and flour1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of sherry1 #a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 forcemeat balls4 ,mode4--,any part of veal will make this dish4 ,cut the meat into nice-looking pieces1 put them in a stewpan with #a oz4 of butter1 and fry a light brown2 add the gravy 7hot water may be substituted for this71 thicken with a little butter and flour1 and stew gently about #a_/d hour2 season with pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace2 add the ketchup1 sherry1 and lemon-juice2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and fried rashers of bacon4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold meat1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,note4--,the above recipe may be varied1 by adding vegetables1 such as peas1 cucumbers1 lettuces1 green onions cut in slices1 a dozen or two of green gooseberries 7not seedy71 all of which should be fried a little with the meat1 and then stewed in the gravy4 ,,veal ,,rissoles 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ija4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of cold roast veal1 a few slices of ham or bacon1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #a tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs1 #a blade of pounded mace1 a very little grated nutmeg1 cayenne and salt to taste1 #b eggs well beaten1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon2 add the parsley1 herbs1 spices1 and seasoning2 mix into a paste with an egg2 form into balls or cones2 brush these over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and fry a rich brown4 ,serve with brown gravy1 and garnish the dish with fried parsley4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to fry the rissoles4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,veal ,,rolls 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ijb4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of a cold fillet of veal1 egg and bread crumbs1 a few slices of fat bacon1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag4 ,mode4--,cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal #a_/b inch thick2 rub them over with egg2 lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of veal2 brush these with the egg1 and over this spread the forcemeat thinly2 roll up each piece tightly1 egg and bread crumb them1 and fry them a rich brown4 ,serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes to fry the rolls4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,veal1 ,stuffed and ,stewed4 #ijc4 ,,ingredients4--,a shoulder of veal1 a few slices of ham or bacon1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 #c carrots1 #b onions1 salt and pepper to taste1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #c blades of pounded mace1 water1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the blade-bone on one side1 and then on the other1 being particular not to pierce the skin2 then cut the bone from the knuckle1 and take it out4 ,fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dag4 ,roll and bind the veal up tightly2 put it into a stew-pan with the carrots1 onions1 seasoning1 herbs1 and mace2 pour in just sufficient water to cover it1 and let it stew very gently for about #e hours4 ,before taking it up1 try if it is properly done by thrusting a larding-needle in it3 if it penetrates easily1 it is sufficiently cooked4 ,strain and skim the gravy1 thicken with butter and flour1 give one boil1 and pour it round the meat4 ,a few young carrots may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish1 and1 when in season1 green peas should always be served with this dish4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #h or #i persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,the ,,fattening ,,of ,,calves4--,the fattening of calves for the market is an important business in ,lanarkshire or ,clydesdale1 and numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from the farmers of the adjacent districts1 in order to be prepared for the butcher4 ,the mode of feeding them is very simple2 milk is the chief article of their diet1 and of this the calves require a sufficient supply from first to last4 ,added to this1 they must be kept in a well-aired place1 neither too hot nor too cold1 and freely supplied with dry litter4 ,it is usual to exclude the light1--at all events to a great degree1 and to put within their reach a lump of chalk1 which they are very fond of licking4 ,thus fed1 calves1 at the end of #h or #i weeks1 often attain a very large size2 viz41 #ah to #bj stone1 exclusive of the offal4 ,far heavier weights have occurred1 and without any deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh4 ,this mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very expensive1 but it is not so1 when all things are taken into consideration2 for at the age of #i or #aj weeks a calf1 originally purchased for #h shillings1 will realize nearly the same number of pounds4 ,for #d1 or even #f weeks1 the milk of one cow is sufficient1--indeed half that quantity is enough for the first fortnight2 but after the #eth or #fth week it will consume the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows2 but then it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed1 nor any other food4 ,usually1 however1 the calves are not kept beyond the age of #f weeks1 and will then sell for #e or #f pounds each3 the milk of the cow is then ready for a successor4 ,in this manner a relay of calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the end of summer1 a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding one to a useless degree of corpulency4 ,,veal ,,sausages4 #ijd4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal2 to every lb4 of meat1 allow #a teaspoonful of minced sage1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,chop the meat and bacon finely1 and to every lb4 allow the above proportion of very finely-minced sage2 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 mix the whole well together1 make it into flat cakes1 and fry a nice brown4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,stewed ,,veal1 with ,peas1 young ,carrots1 and new ,potatoes4 #ije4 ,,ingredients4--#c or #d lbs4 of the loin or neck of veal1 #ae young carrots1 a few green onions1 #a pint of green peas1 #ab new potatoes1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #b tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,dredge the meat with flour1 and roast or bake it for about #c_/d hour3 it should acquire a nice brown colour4 ,put the meat into a stewpan with the carrots1 onions1 potatoes1 herbs1 pepper1 and salt2 pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover it1 and stew gently for #b hours4 ,take out the meat and herbs1 put it in a deep dish1 skim off all the fat from the gravy1 and flavour it with lemon-juice1 tomato sauce1 and mushroom ketchup in the above proportion4 ,have ready a pint of green peas boiled2 put these with the meat1 pour over it the gravy1 and serve4 ,the dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls4 ,the meat1 when preferred1 may be cut into chops1 and floured and fried instead of being roasted2 and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found extremely savoury and good4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable1 with peas1 from ,june to ,august4 ,,baked ,,sweetbreads 7an ,entree74 #ijf4 ,,ingredients4--#c sweetbreads1 egg and bread crumbs1 oiled butter1 #c slices of toast1 brown gravy4 ,illustration3 ,,sweetbreads4 ,mode4--,choose large white sweetbreads2 put them into warm water to draw out the blood1 and to improve their colour2 let them remain for rather more than #a hour2 then put them into boiling water1 and allow them to simmer for about #aj minutes1 which renders them firm4 ,take them up1 drain them1 brush over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs2 dip them in egg again1 and then into more bread crumbs4 ,drop on them a little oiled butter1 and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated oven1 and let them bake for nearly #c_/d hour4 ,make #c pieces of toast2 place the sweetbreads on the toast1 and pour round1 but not over them1 a good brown gravy4 ,time4--,to soak #a hour1 to be boiled #aj minutes1 baked #dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #es4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable4--,in full season from ,may to ,august4 ,,fried ,,sweetbreads a la ,maitre d',hotel 7an ,entree74 #ijg4 ,,ingredients4--#c sweetbreads1 egg and bread crumbs1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 rather more than #a_/b pint of ,matre d'htel sauce ,no4 #dff4 ,mode4--,soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour2 then boil them for #aj minutes2 cut them in slices1 egg and bread crumb them1 season with pepper and salt1 and put them into a frying-pan1 with the above proportion of butter4 ,keep turning them until done1 which will be in about #aj minutes2 dish them1 and pour over them a ,matre d'htel sauce1 made by recipe ,no4 #dff4 ,the dish may be garnished with slices of cut lemon4 ,time4--,to soak #a hour1 to be broiled #aj minutes1 to be fried about #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #es41 according to the season4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable4--,in full season from ,may to ,august4 ,note4--,the egg and bread crumb may be omitted1 and the slices of sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead1 and a good gravy may be substituted for the maitre d'htel sauce4 ,this is a very simple method of dressing them4 ,,stewed ,,sweetbreads 7an ,entree74 #ijh4 ,,ingredients4--#c sweetbreads1 #a pint of white stock ,no4 #ajg1 thickening of butter and flour1 #f tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a blade of pounded mace1 white pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,soak the sweetbreads in warm water for #a hour1 and boil them for #aj minutes2 take them out1 put them into cold water for a few minutes2 lay them in a stewpan with the stock1 and simmer them gently for rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,dish them2 thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour2 let it boil up1 add the remaining ingredients1 allow the sauce to get quite hot1 but not boil1 and pour it over the sweetbreads4 ,time4--,to soak #a hour1 to be boiled #aj minutes1 stewed rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #es41 according to the season4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable4--,in full season from ,may to ,august4 ,note4--,a few mushrooms added to this dish1 and stewed with the sweetbreads1 will be found an improvement4 ,,season ,,and ,,choice ,,of ,,veal4--,veal1 like all other meats1 has its season of plenty4 ,the best veal1 and the largest supply1 are to be had from ,march to the end of ,july4 ,it comes principally from the western counties1 and is generally of the ,alderney breed4 ,in purchasing veal1 its whiteness and fineness of grain should be considered1 the colour being especially of the utmost consequence4 ,veal may be bought at all times of the year and of excellent quality1 but is generally very dear1 except in the months of plenty4 ,,stewed ,,tendrons ,,de ,,veau 7an ,entree74 #iji4 ,,ingredients4--,the gristles from #b breasts of veal1 stock ,no4 #ajg1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #d cloves1 #b carrots1 #b onions1 a strip of lemon-peel4 ,mode4--,the tendrons or gristles1 which are found round the front of a breast of veal1 are now very frequently served as an entre1 and when well dressed1 make a nice and favourite dish4 ,detach the gristles from the bone1 and cut them neatly out1 so as not to spoil the joint for roasting or stewing4 ,put them into a stewpan1 with sufficient stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 to cover them2 add the herbs1 mace1 cloves1 carrots1 onions1 and lemon1 and simmer these for nearly1 or quite1 #d hours4 ,they should be stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily4 ,take them up1 drain them1 strain the gravy1 boil it down to a glaze1 with which glaze the meat4 ,dish the tendrons in a circle1 with crotons fried of a nice colour placed between each2 and put mushroom sauce1 or a pure of green peas or tomatoes1 in the middle4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,sufficient for one entre4 ,seasonable4--,with peas1 from ,june to ,august4 ,,cow-,,pox1 ,,or ,,variola4--,it is to ,dr4 ,jenner1 of ,berkeley1 ,gloucestershire1 who died in #ahbc1 that we owe the practice of vaccination1 as a preservative from the attack of that destructive scourge of the human race1 the small-pox4 ,the experiments of this philosophic man were begun in #agig1 and published the next year4 ,he had observed that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats1 and that those persons who became affected by it1 while milking the cattle1 escaped the small-pox raging around them4 ,this fact1 known to farmers from time immemorial1 led him to a course of experiments1 the result of which all are acquainted with4 ,,tendrons ,,de ,,veau 7an ,entree74 #iaj4 ,,ingredients4--,the gristles from #b breasts of veal1 stock ,no4 #ajg1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #d cloves1 #b carrots1 #b onions1 a strip of lemon-peel1 egg and bread crumbs1 #b tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of sherry1 the yolk of #a egg1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,mode4--,after removing the gristles from a breast of veal1 stew them for #d hours1 as in the preceding recipe1 with stock1 herbs1 mace1 cloves1 carrots1 onions1 and lemon-peel4 ,when perfectly tender1 lift them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining4 ,put them between two dishes1 with a weight on the top1 and when cold1 cut them into slices4 ,brush these over with egg1 sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and fry a pale brown4 ,take #a_/b pint of the gravy they were boiled in1 add #b tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms1 a seasoning of salt and pepper1 the sherry1 and the yolk of an egg beaten with #c tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens2 when it is on the point of boiling1 dish the tendrons in a circle1 and pour the sauce in the middle4 ,tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways1--with sauce l',espagnole1 vegetables of all kinds3 when they are served with a pure1 they should always be glazed4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost4--,usually bought with breast of veal4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,tete ,,de ,,veau ,,en ,,tortue 7an ,entree74 #iaa4 ,,ingredients4--,half a calf's head1 or the remains of a cold boiled one2 rather more than #a pint of good white stock1 ,no4 #ajg1 #a glass of sherry or ,madeira1 cayenne and salt to taste1 about #ab mushroom-buttons 7when obtainable71 #f hard-boiled eggs1 #d gherkins1 #h quenelles or forcemeat balls1 ,no4 #dbb or #dbc1 #ab crayfish1 #ab crotons4 ,mode4--,half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entre1 and if there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day1 it will answer very well for this dish4 ,after boiling the head until tender1 remove the bones1 and cut the meat into neat pieces2 put the stock into a stewpan1 add the wine1 and a seasoning of salt and cayenne2 fry the mushrooms in butter for #b or #c minutes1 and add these to the gravy4 ,boil this quickly until somewhat reduced2 then put in the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs whole1 the whites cut in small pieces1 and the gherkins chopped4 ,have ready a few veal quenelles1 made by recipe ,no4 #dbb or #dbc2 add these1 with the slices of head1 to the other ingredients1 and let the whole get thoroughly hot1 without boiling4 ,arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as possible2 pour over them the ragout1 and garnish with the crayfish and crotons placed alternately4 ,a little of the gravy should also be served in a tureen4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to reduce the stock4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the calf's head1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,a ,,frenchman',s ,,opinion ,,of ,,veal4--,a great authority in his native ,paris tells us1 that veal1 as a meat1 is but little nourishing1 is relaxing1 and sufficiently difficult of digestion4 ,lending itself1 as it does1 he says1 in all the flowery imagery of the ,french tongue and manner1 to so many metamorphoses1 it may be called1 without exaggeration1 the chameleon of the kitchen4 ,who has not eaten calf's head au naturel1 simply boiled with the skin on1 its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp8 ,it is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable1 and one that the most inexperienced cook may serve with success4 ,calf's feet la poulette1 au gratin1 fried1 c42 les cervelles1 served in the same manner1 and under the same names2 sweetbreads en fricandeau1 piqus en fin1--all these offer most satisfactory entres1 which the art of the cook1 more or less1 varies for the gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites4 ,we have not spoken1 in the above catalogue1 either of the liver1 or of the fraise1 or of the ears1 which also share the honour of appearing at our tables4 ,where is the man not acquainted with calf's liver la bourgeoise1 the most frequent and convenient dish at unpretentious tables8 ,the fraise1 cooked in water1 and eaten with vinegar1 is a wholesome and agreeable dish1 and contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons4 ,calf's ears have1 in common with the feet and cervelles1 the advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or la poulette2 and besides1 can be made into a farce1 with the addition of peas1 onions1 cheese1 c4 ,neither is it confined to the calf's tongue1 or even the eyes1 that these shall dispute alone the glory of awakening the taste of man2 thus1 the fressure 7which1 as is known1 comprises the heart1 the mou1 and the rate71 although not a very recherch dish1 lends itself to all the caprices of an expert artist1 and may1 under various marvellous disguises1 deceive1 and please1 and even awaken our appetite4--,verily1 we might say1 after this rhapsody of our neighbour1 that his country's weal will not suffer in him as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer4 ,,veal ,,carving4 ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,breast ,,of ,,veal4 #iab4 ,the carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a fore-quarter of lamb1 when the shoulder has been taken off4 ,the breast of veal consists of two parts1--the rib-bones and the gristly brisket4 ,these two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife in the direction of the lines #a1 #b2 when they are entirely divided1 the rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines #e to #f2 and the brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction #c to #d4 ,the carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the brisket or ribs2 and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish1 as it often is with roast breast of veal1 each person should receive a piece4 ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,illustration3 ,,calf',s ,,head4 #iac4 ,this is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is put before a carver for the first time2 there is not much real difficulty in the operation1 however1 when the head has been attentively examined1 and1 after the manner of a phrenologist1 you get to know its bumps1 good and bad4 ,in the first place1 inserting the knife quite down to the bone1 cut slices in the direction of the line #a to #b2 with each of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat sweetbread1 cut in the direction of from #c to #d4 ,the eye1 and the flesh round1 are favourite morsels with many1 and should be given to those at the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs4 ,the jawbone being removed1 there will then be found some nice lean2 and the palate1 which is reckoned by some a tit-bit1 lies under the head4 ,on a separate dish there is always served the tongue and brains1 and each guest should be asked to take some of these4 ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal4 #iad4 ,the carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef4 ,slices1 not too thick1 in the direction of the line #a to #b are cut2 and the only point to be careful about is1 that the veal be evenly carved4 ,between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted1 and a small portion of this should be served to every guest4 ,the persons whom the host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious brown outside slice1 as this1 by many1 is exceedingly relished4 ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,knuckle ,,of ,,veal4 #iae4 ,the engraving1 showing the dotted line from #a to #b1 sufficiently indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving this dish4 ,the best slices are those from the thickest part of the knuckle1 that is1 outside the line #a to #b4 ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 ,illustration3 ,,loin ,,of ,,veal4 #iaf4 ,as is the case with a loin of mutton1 the careful jointing of a loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it4 ,if the butcher be negligent in this matter1 he should be admonished2 for there is nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones4 ,when the jointing is properly performed1 there is little difficulty in carrying the knife down in the direction of the line #a to #b4 ,to each guest should be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat1 which lie underneath1 and are considered great delicacies4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,birds4 ,birds1 the free tenants of land1 air1 and ocean1 ,their forms all symmetry1 their motions grace2 ,in plumage delicate and beautiful2 ,thick without burthen1 close as fishes' scales1 ,or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze4 ,the ,pelican ,island4 #iag4 ,,the ,,divisions ,,of ,,birds are founded principally on their habits of life1 and the natural resemblance which their external parts1 especially their bills1 bear to each other4 ,according to ,mr4 ,vigors1 there are five orders1 each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the globe2 so that the air1 the forest1 the land1 the marsh1 and the water1 has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants4 ,these are respectively designated as ,,birds ,,of ,,prey1 ,,perchers1 ,,walkers1 ,,waders1 and ,,swimmers2 and1 in contemplating their variety1 lightness1 beauty1 and wonderful adaptation to the regions they severally inhabit1 and the functions they are destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation1 our hearts are lifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity1 power1 and wisdom of ,,him who has1 in producing them1 so strikingly manifested ,his handiwork4 ,not only these1 however1 but all classes of animals1 have their peculiar ends to fulfil2 and1 in order that this may be effectually performed1 they are constructed in such a manner as will enable them to carry out their conditions4 ,thus the quadrupeds1 that are formed to tread the earth in common with man1 are muscular and vigorous2 and1 whether they have passed into the servitude of man1 or are permitted to range the forest or the field1 they still retain1 in a high degree1 the energies with which they were originally endowed4 ,birds1 on the contrary1 are generally feeble1 and1 therefore1 timid4 ,accordingly1 wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air1 and thus elude the force which1 by nature1 they are unable to resist4 ,notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre of the earth1 birds1 when raised in the atmosphere1 glide through it with the greatest ease1 rapidity1 and vigour4 ,there1 they are in their natural element1 and can vary their course with the greatest promptitude--can mount or descend with the utmost facility1 and can light on any spot with the most perfect exactness1 and without the slightest injury to themselves4 #iah4 ,,the ,,mechanism ,,which ,,enables ,,birds to wing their course through the air1 is both singular and instructive4 ,their bodies are covered with feathers1 which are much lighter than coverings of hair1 with which quadrupeds are usually clothed4 ,the feathers are so placed as to overlap each other1 like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house4 ,they are also arranged from the fore-part backwards2 by which the animals are enabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air4 ,their bones are tubular or hollow1 and extremely light compared with those of terrestrial animals4 ,this greatly facilitates their rising from the earth1 whilst their heads1 being comparatively small1 their bills shaped like a wedge1 their bodies slender1 sharp below1 and round above1--all these present a union of conditions1 favourable1 in the last degree1 to cutting their way through the arial element to which they are considered as more peculiarly to belong4 ,with all these conditions1 however1 birds could not fly without wings4 ,these1 therefore1 are the instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion1 and are constructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion when struck in a downward direction4 ,if we except1 in this action1 the slight hollow which takes place on the under-side1 they become almost two planes4 ,in order that the downward action may be accomplished to the necessary extent1 the muscles which move the wings have been made exceedingly large2 so large1 indeed1 that1 in some instances1 they have been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body4 ,therefore1 when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly1 it takes a leap1 and immediately stretching its wings1 strikes them out with great force4 ,by this act these are brought into an oblique direction1 being turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards4 ,that part of the force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the bird1 whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward4 ,the stroke being completed1 it moves upon its wings1 which1 being contracted and having their edges turned upwards1 obviate1 in a great measure1 the resistance of the air4 ,when it is sufficiently elevated1 it makes a second stroke downwards1 and the impulse of the air again moves it forward4 ,these successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken in the air4 ,when the bird desires to direct its course to the right or the left1 it strikes strongly with the opposite wing1 which impels it to the proper side4 ,in the motions of the animal1 too1 the tail takes a prominent part1 and acts like the rudder of a ship1 except that1 instead of sideways1 it moves upwards and downwards4 ,if the bird wishes to rise1 it raises its tail2 and if to fall1 it depresses it2 and1 whilst in a horizontal position1 it keeps it steady4 ,there are few who have not observed a pigeon or a crow preserve1 for some time1 a horizontal flight without any apparent motion of the wings4 ,this is accomplished by the bird having already acquired sufficient velocity1 and its wings being parallel to the horizon1 meeting with but small resistance from the atmosphere4 ,if it begins to fall1 it can easily steer itself upward by means of its tail1 till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent1 when it must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings4 ,on alighting1 a bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air1 as a ship1 in tacking round1 backs her sails1 in order that they may meet with all the resistance possible4 #iai4 ,,in ,,the ,,construction ,,of ,,the ,,eyes of birds1 there is a peculiarity necessary to their condition4 ,as they pass a great portion of their lives among thickets and hedges1 they are provided for the defence of their eyes from external injuries1 as well as from the effects of the light1 when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun1 with a nictating or winking membrane1 which can1 at pleasure1 be drawn over the whole eye like a curtain4 ,this covering is neither opaque nor wholly pellucid1 but is somewhat transparent2 and it is by its means that the eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun4 ,in birds1 says a writer on this subject1 we find that the sight is much more piercing1 extensive1 and exact1 than in the other orders of animals4 ,the eye is much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head1 than in any of these4 ,this is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding utility3 it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence4 ,were this organ in birds dull1 or in the least degree opaque1 they would be in danger1 from the rapidity of their motion1 of striking against various objects in their flight4 ,in this case their celerity1 instead of being an advantage1 would become an evil1 and their flight be restrained by the danger resulting from it4 ,indeed we may consider the velocity with which an animal moves1 as a sure indication of the perfection of its vision4 ,among the quadrupeds1 the sloth has its sight greatly limited2 whilst the hawk1 as it hovers in the air1 can espy a lark sitting on a clod1 perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man or a dog could perceive it4 #ibj4 ,,amongst ,,the ,,many ,,peculiarities ,,in ,,the ,,construction ,,of ,,birds1 not the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished4 ,this is effected by means of air-vessels1 which extend throughout the body1 and adhere to the under-surface of the bones4 ,these1 by their motion1 force the air through the true lungs1 which are very small1 and placed in the uppermost part of the chest1 and closely braced down to the back and ribs4 ,the lungs1 which are never expanded by air1 are destined to the sole purpose of oxidizing the blood4 ,in the experiments made by ,mr4 ,john ,hunter1 to discover the use of this general diffusion of air through the bodies of birds1 he found that it prevents their respiration from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motion through a resisting medium4 ,it is well known that1 in proportion to celerity of motion1 the air becomes resistive2 and were it possible for a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow1 as he is not provided with an internal construction similar to that of birds1 the resistance of the air would soon suffocate him4 #iba4 ,,birds ,,are ,,distributed ,,over ,,every ,,part ,,of ,,the ,,globe1 being found in the coldest as well as the hottest regions1 although some species are restricted to particular countries1 whilst others are widely dispersed4 ,at certain seasons of the year1 many of them change their abodes1 and migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of life1 for a time1 than those which they leave4 ,many of the birds of ,britain1 directed by an unerring instinct1 take their departure from the island before the commencement of winter1 and proceed to the more congenial warmth of ,africa1 to return with the next spring4 ,the causes assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are1 either a deficiency of food1 or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment of their young4 ,their migrations are generally performed in large companies1 and1 in the day1 they follow a leader1 which is occasionally changed4 ,during the night1 many of the tribes send forth a continual cry1 to keep themselves together2 although one would think that the noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that purpose4 ,the flight of birds across the ,mediterranean was noticed three thousand years ago1 as we find it said in the book of ,numbers1 in the ,scriptures1 that ,there went forth a wind from the ,lord1 and brought quails from the sea1 and let them fall upon the camp1 and a day's journey round about it1 to the height of two cubits above the earth4 #ibb4 ,,if ,,the ,,beauty ,,of ,,birds were not a recommendation to their being universally admired1 their general liveliness1 gaiety1 and song would endear them to mankind4 ,it appears1 however1 from accurate observations founded upon experiment1 that the notes peculiar to different kinds of birds are altogether acquired1 and that they are not innate1 any more than language is to man4 ,the attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been compared to the endeavour of a child to talk4 ,the first attempts do not seem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song2 but1 as the bird grows older and becomes stronger1 it is easily perceived to be aiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song4 ,whilst the scholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes1 when he is once sure of a passage1 he usually raises his tone1 but drops it again when he finds himself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken4 ,many well-authenticated facts1 says an ingenious writer1 seem decisively to prove that birds have no innate notes1 but that1 like mankind1 the language of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth1 will be their language in after-life4 ,it would appear1 however1 somewhat unaccountable why1 in a wild state1 they adhere so steadily to the song of their own species only1 when the notes of so many others are to be heard around them4 ,this is said to arise from the attention paid by the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only1 generally disregarding the notes of all the rest4 ,persons2 however1 who have an accurate ear1 and who have given their attention to the songs of birds1 can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed with those of another species2 but this is in general so trifling1 that it can hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincial dialects4 #ibc4 ,,in ,,reference ,,to ,,the ,,food ,,of ,,birds1 we find that it varies1 as it does in quadrupeds1 according to the species4 ,some are altogether carnivorous2 others1 as so many of the web-footed tribes1 subsist on fish2 others1 again1 on insects and worms2 and others on grain and fruit4 ,the extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous tribes1 in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion1 would1 were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded on experiment1 appear to exceed all credibility4 ,tin tubes1 full of grain1 have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys1 and in twenty-four hours have been found broken1 compressed1 and distorted into every shape4 ,twelve small lancets1 very sharp both at the point and edges1 have been fixed in a ball of lead1 covered with a case of paper1 and given to a turkey-cock1 and left in its stomach for eight hours4 ,after that time the stomach was opened1 when nothing appeared except the naked ball4 ,the twelve lancets were broken to pieces1 whilst the stomach remained perfectly sound and entire4 ,from these facts1 it is concluded that the stones1 so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes1 are highly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain and other hard substances which constitute their food4 ,the stones1 themselves1 being also ground down and separated by the powerful action of the gizzard1 are mixed with the food1 and1 no doubt1 contribute very greatly to the health1 as well as to the nourishment of the animals4 #ibd4 ,,all ,,birds ,,being ,,oviparous1 the eggs which they produce after the process of incubation1 or sitting for a certain length of time1 are1 in the various species1 different both in figure and colour1 as well as in point of number4 ,they contain the elements of the future young1 for the perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed at the large end1 between the shell and the inside skin4 ,it is supposed that from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confined air1 its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor1 and1 at the same time1 its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction4 ,by this means1 pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg1 which1 in some inscrutable way1 gradually promote the formation and growth of the young1 till the time comes for its escaping from the shell4 ,to preserve an egg perfectly fresh1 and even fit for incubation1 for #e or #f months after it has been laid1 ,raumur1 the ,french naturalist1 has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet4 #ibe4 ,,birds ,,however1 ,,do ,,not ,,lay ,,eggs before they have some place to put them2 accordingly1 they construct nests for themselves with astonishing art4 ,as builders1 they exhibit a degree of architectural skill1 niceness1 and propriety1 that would seem even to mock the imitative talents of man1 however greatly these are marked by his own high intelligence and ingenuity4 ,each circumstance ,most artfully contrived to favour warmth4 ,here read the reason of the vaulted roof2 ,how ,providence compensates1 ever kind1 ,the enormous disproportion that subsists ,between the mother and the numerous brood ,which her small bulk must quicken into life4 ,in building their nests1 the male and female generally assist each other1 and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches2 so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in search of it4 ,this art of nidification is one of the most wonderful contrivances which the wide field of ,nature can show1 and which1 of itself1 ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief1 that they and every other part of the creation1 are constantly under the protecting power of a superintending ,being1 whose benign dispensations seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited4 ,illustration ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,chicken ,,cutlets 7an ,entree74 #ibf4 ,,ingredients4--#b chickens2 seasoning to taste of salt1 white pepper1 and cayenne2 #b blades of pounded mace1 egg and bread crumbs1 clarified butter1 #a strip of lemon-rind1 #b carrots1 #a onion1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens2 cut the meat into neat pieces after having skinned it1 and season the cutlets with pepper1 salt1 pounded mace1 and cayenne4 ,put the bones1 trimmings1 c41 into a stewpan with #a pint of water1 adding carrots1 onions1 and lemon-peel in the above proportion2 stew gently for #a-a_/b hour1 and strain the gravy4 ,thicken it with butter and flour1 add the ketchup and #a egg well beaten2 stir it over the fire1 and bring it to the simmering-point1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,in the mean time1 egg and bread-crumb the cutlets1 and give them a few drops of clarified butter2 fry them a delicate brown1 occasionally turning them2 arrange them pyramidically on the dish1 and pour over them the sauce4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the cutlets4 ,average cost1 #bs4 each4 ,sufficient for an entre4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,,fowls ,,as ,,food4--,brillat ,savarin1 pre-eminent in gastronomic taste1 says that he believes the whole gallinaceous family was made to enrich our larders and furnish our tables2 for1 from the quail to the turkey1 he avers their flesh is a light aliment1 full of flavour1 and fitted equally well for the invalid as for the man of robust health4 ,the fine flavour1 however1 which ,nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of poultry1 man has not been satisfied with1 and has used many means--such as keeping them in solitude and darkness1 and forcing them to eat--to give them an unnatural state of fatness or fat4 ,this fat1 thus artificially produced1 is doubtless delicious1 and the taste and succulence of the boiled and roasted bird draw forth the praise of the guests around the table4 ,well-fattened and tender1 a fowl is to the cook what the canvas is to the painter2 for do we not see it served boiled1 roasted1 fried1 fricasseed1 hashed1 hot1 cold1 whole1 dismembered1 boned1 broiled1 stuffed1 on dishes1 and in pies1--always handy and ever acceptable8 ,,the ,,common ,,or ,,domestic ,,fowl4--,from time immemorial1 the common or domestic fowl has been domesticated in ,england1 and is supposed to be originally the offspring of some wild species which abound in the forests of ,india4 ,it is divided into a variety of breeds1 but the most esteemed are1 the ,poland or ,black1 the ,dorking1 the ,bantam1 the ,game ,fowl1 and the ,malay or ,chittagong4 ,the common1 or barn-door fowl1 is one of the most delicate of the varieties2 and at ,dorking1 in ,surrey1 the breed is brought to great perfection4 ,till they are four months old1 the term chicken is applied to the young female2 after that age they are called pullets1 till they begin to lay1 when they are called hens4 ,the ,english counties most productive in poultry are ,surrey1 ,sussex1 ,norfolk1 ,herts1 ,devon1 and ,somerset4 ,,french ,,chicken ,,cutlets 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ibg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled fowl1 fried bread1 clarified butter1 the yolk of #a egg1 bread crumbs1 #a_/b teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel2 salt1 cayenne1 and mace to taste4 ,for sauce1--#a oz4 of butter1 #b minced shalots1 a few slices of carrot1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #f peppercorns1 #a_/d pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible2 take a corresponding number of sippets about the same size1 all cut one shape2 fry them a pale brown1 put them before the fire1 then dip the cutlets into clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg1 cover with bread crumbs seasoned in the above proportion1 with lemon-peel1 mace1 salt1 and cayenne2 fry them for about #e minutes1 put each piece on one of the sippets1 pile them high in the dish1 and serve with the following sauce1 which should be made ready for the cutlets4 ,put the butter into a stewpan1 add the shalots1 carrot1 herbs1 mace1 and peppercorns2 fry for #aj minutes or rather longer2 pour in #a_/b pint of good gravy1 made of the chicken bones1 stew gently for #bj minutes1 strain it1 and serve4 ,time4--#e minutes to fry the cutlets2 #ce minutes to make the gravy4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the chicken1 #i;d4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,july4 ,,eggs ,,for ,,hatching4--,eggs intended for hatching should be removed as soon as laid1 and placed in bran in a dry1 cool place4 ,choose those that are near of a size2 and1 as a rule1 avoid those that are equally thick at both ends1--such1 probably1 contain a double yolk1 and will come to no good4 ,eggs intended for hatching should never be stored longer than a month1 as much less the better4 ,nine eggs may be placed under a ,bantam hen1 and as many as fifteen under a ,dorking4 ,the odd number is considered preferable1 as more easily packed4 ,it will be as well to mark the eggs you give the hen to sit on1 so that you may know if she lays any more3 if she does1 you must remove them2 for1 if hatched at all1 they would be too late for the brood4 ,if during incubation an egg should be broken1 remove it1 and take out the remainder1 and cleanse them in luke-warm water1 or it is probable the sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg will make the others cling to the hen's feathers2 and they1 too1 may be fractured4 ,,hens ,,sitting4--,some hens are very capricious as regards sitting2 they will make a great fuss1 and keep pining for the nest1 and1 when they are permitted to take to it1 they will sit just long enough to addle the eggs1 and then they're off again4 ,the safest way to guard against such annoyance1 is to supply the hen with some hard-boiled eggs2 if she sits on them a reasonable time1 and seems steadily inclined1 like a good matron1 you may then give her proper eggs1 and let her set about the business in earnest4 ,,chicken ,,or ,,fowl ,,patties4 #ibh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast chicken or fowl2 to every #a_/d lb4 of meat allow #b oz4 of ham1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream1 #b tablespoonfuls of veal gravy1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel2 cayenne1 salt1 and pepper to taste2 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a oz4 of butter rolled in flour2 puff paste4 ,mode4--,mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl1 after removing all the skin2 weigh it1 and to every #a_/d lb4 of meat allow the above proportion of minced ham4 ,put these into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients1 stir over the fire for #aj minutes or #a_/d hour1 taking care that the mixture does not burn4 ,roll out some puff paste about #a_/d inch in thickness2 line the patty-pans with this1 put upon each a small piece of bread1 and cover with another layer of paste2 brush over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake in a brisk oven for about #a_/d hour4 ,when done1 cut a round piece out of the top1 and1 with a small spoon1 take out the bread 7be particular in not breaking the outside border of the crust71 and fill the patties with the mixture4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to prepare the meat2 not quite #a_/d hour to bake the crust4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,hatching4--,sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to break away from its prison2 for the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners' clue1 when the poor chick is in a terrible fix4 ,an able writer says1 ,assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely1 and thence unnecessarily1 but only in the case of the chick being plainly unable to release itself2 then1 indeed1 an addition may probably be made to the brood1 as great numbers are always lost in this way4 ,the chick makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg1 and a section of about one-third of the length of the shell being separated1 delivers the prisoner1 provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell4 ,between the body of the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid1 the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation1 until it becomes a positive glue4 ,when this happens1 the feathers stick fast to the shell1 and the chicks remain confined1 and must perish1 if not released4 ,the method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in releasing themselves from the shell1 is to take the egg in the hand1 and dipping the finger or a piece of linen rag in warm water1 to apply it to the fastened parts until they are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers4 ,the chick1 then1 being returned to the nest1 will extricate itself1--a mode generally to be observed1 since1 if violence were used1 it would prove fatal4 ,nevertheless1 breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary2 and separating with the fingers1 as gently as may be1 the membrane from the feathers1 which are still to be moistened as mentioned above1 to facilitate the operation4 ,the points of small scissors may be useful1 and when there is much resistance1 as also apparent pain to the bird1 the process must be conducted in the gentlest manner1 and the shell separated into a number of small pieces4 ,the signs of a need of assistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped1 and the cluck discontinuing its efforts for five of six hours4 ,weakness from cold may disable the chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell1 which must then be artificially performed with a circular fracture1 such as is made by the bird itself4 ,,chicken ,,or ,,fowl ,,pie4 #ibi4 ,,ingredients4--#b small fowls or #a large one1 white pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded mace1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 a few slices of ham1 #c hard-boiled eggs1 #a_/b pint of water1 puff crust4 ,mode4--,skin and cut up the fowls into joints1 and put the neck1 leg1 and backbones in a stewpan1 with a little water1 an onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 and a blade of mace2 let these stew for about an hour1 and1 when done1 strain off the liquor3 this is for gravy4 ,put a layer of fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish1 then a layer of ham1 then one of forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings2 between the layers put a seasoning of pounded mace1 nutmeg1 pepper1 and salt4 ,proceed in this manner until the dish is full1 and pour in about #a_/b pint of water2 border the edge of the dish with puff crust1 put on the cover1 ornament the top1 and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk of an egg4 ,bake from #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour1 should the pie be very large1 and1 when done1 pour in1 at the top1 the gravy made from the bones4 ,if to be eaten cold1 and wished particularly nice1 the joints of the fowls should be boned1 and placed in the dish with alternate layers of forcemeat2 sausage-meat may also be substituted for the forcemeat1 and is now very much used4 ,when the chickens are boned1 and mixed with sausage-meat1 the pie will take about #b hours to bake4 ,it should be covered with a piece of paper when about half-done1 to prevent the paste from being dried up or scorched4 ,time4--,for a pie with unboned meat1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour2 with boned meat and sausage or forcemeat1 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 with #b fowls1 #fs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,young ,,chicks4--,the chicks that are hatched first should be taken from underneath the hen1 lest she might think her task at an end1 and leave the remaining eggs to spoil4 ,as soon as the young birds are taken from the mother1 they must be placed in a basket lined with soft wool1 flannel1 or hay1 and stood in the sunlight if it be summer time1 or by the fire if the weather be cold4 ,it is a common practice to cram young chicks with food as soon as they are born4 ,this is quite unnecessary4 ,they will1 so long as they are kept warm1 come to no harm if they take no food for twenty-four hours following their birth4 ,should the whole of the brood not be hatched by that time1 those that are born may be fed with bread soaked in milk1 and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg4 ,,potted ,,chicken ,,or ,,fowl 7a ,luncheon or ,breakfast ,dish74 #icj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast chicken2 to every lb4 of meat allow #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #a teaspoonful of pounded mace1 #a_/d small nutmeg4 ,mode4--,strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl2 when it is freed from gristle and skin1 weigh it1 and1 to every lb4 of meat1 allow the above proportion of butter1 seasoning1 and spices4 ,cut the meat into small pieces1 pound it well with the fresh butter1 sprinkle in the spices gradually1 and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste4 ,put it into potting-pots for use1 and cover it with clarified butter1 about #a_/d inch in thickness1 and1 if to be kept for some time1 tie over a bladder3 #b or #c slices of ham1 minced and pounded with the above ingredients1 will be found an improvement4 ,it should be kept in a dry place4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,feeding ,,and ,,cooping ,,the ,,chicks4--,when all the chicks are hatched1 they should be placed along with the mother under a coop in a warm dry spot4 ,if two hens happen to have their broods at the same time1 their respective chicks should be carefully kept separate2 as1 if they get mixed1 and so go under the wrong coop1 the hens will probably maim and destroy those who have mistaken their dwelling4 ,after being kept snug beneath the coop for a week 7the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall71 the chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest part of the day4 ,they should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg1 instead of which grits or boiled barley should be given2 in #h or #aj days their stomachs will be strong enough to receive bruised barley1 and at the end of #c weeks1 if your chicks be healthy1 they will be able to take care of themselves4 ,it will be well1 however1 to keep your eye on them a week or so longer1 as the elder chickens may drive them from their food4 ,great care should be taken that the very young chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass1 as this is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease4 ,while under the coop with their mother1 a shallow pan or plate of water should be supplied to the chicks1 as in a deeper vessel they are liable to drench themselves and take cold1 or possibly to get drowned4 ,,chicken ,,or ,,fowl ,,salad4 #ica4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled chicken1 #b lettuces1 a little endive1 #a cucumber1 a few slices of boiled beetroot1 salad-dressing ,no4 #ejf4 ,mode4--,trim neatly the remains of the chicken2 wash1 dry1 and slice the lettuces1 and place in the middle of a dish2 put the pieces of fowl on the top1 and pour the salad-dressing over them4 ,garnish the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings1 sliced cucumber1 and boiled beetroot cut in slices4 ,instead of cutting the eggs in rings1 the yolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve1 and the whites chopped very finely1 and arranged on the salad in small bunches1 yellow and white alternately4 ,this should not be made long before it is wanted for table4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold chicken1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,age ,,and ,,flavour ,,of ,,chickens4--,it has been the opinion of the medical faculty of all ages and all countries1 that the flesh of the young chicken is the must delicate and easy to digest of all animal food4 ,it is less alkalescent than the flesh of any other animal1 and its entire freedom from any irritating quality renders it a fit dish for the ailing1 or those whose stomachs are naturally weak4 ,in no animal1 however1 does age work such a change1 in regard to the quality of its flesh1 as it does in domestic fowls4 ,in their infancy1 cocks and hens are equally tender and toothsome2 but as time overtakes them it is the cock whose flesh toughens first4 ,a year-old cock1 indeed1 is fit for little else than to be converted into soup1 while a hen at the same age1 although sufficiently substantial1 is not callous to the insinuations of a carving-knife4 ,as regards capons1 however1 the rule respecting age does not hold good4 ,there is scarcely to be found a more delicious animal than a well-fed1 well-dressed capon4 ,age does not dry up his juices2 indeed1 like wine1 he seems but to mellow4 ,at three years old1 even1 he is as tender as a chick1 with the additional advantage of his proper chicken flavour being fully developed4 ,the above remarks1 however1 concerning the capon1 only apply to such as are naturally fed1 and not crammed4 ,the latter process may produce a handsome-looking bird1 and it may weigh enough to satisfy the whim or avarice of its stuffer2 but1 when before the fire1 it will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected1 and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears4 ,you will never find heart enough to place such a grief-worn guest at the head of your table4 ,it should be borne in mind as a rule1 that small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the contrary sort in delicacy of colour1 flavour1 and fineness of flesh4 ,,hashed ,,duck 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #icb4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast duck1 rather more than #a pint of weak stock or water1 #a onion1 #a oz4 of butter1 thickening of butter and flour1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/b glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,cut the duck into nice joints1 and put the trimmings into a stewpan2 slice and fry the onion in a little butter2 add these to the trimmings1 pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water1 and stew gently for #a hour4 ,strain the liquor1 thicken it with butter and flour1 season with salt and cayenne1 and add the remaining ingredients2 boil it up and skim well2 lay in the pieces of duck1 and let them get thoroughly hot through by the side of the fire1 but do not allow them to boil3 they should soak in the gravy for about #a_/b hour4 ,garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,the hash may be made richer by using a stronger and more highly-flavoured gravy2 a little spice or pounded mace may also be added1 when their flavour is liked4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold duck1 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february2 ducklings from ,may to ,august4 ,,the ,,duck4--,this bird belongs to the order of ,natatores1 or ,swimmers2 the most familiar tribes of which are ducks1 swans1 geese1 auks1 penguins1 petrels1 pelicans1 guillemots1 gulls1 and terns4 ,they mostly live in the water1 feeding on fish1 worms1 and aquatic plants4 ,they are generally polygamous1 and make their nests among reeds1 or in moist places4 ,the flesh of many of the species is eatable1 but that of some is extremely rank and oily4 ,the duck is a native of ,britain1 but is found on the margins of most of the ,european lakes4 ,it is excessively greedy1 and by no means a nice feeder4 ,it requires a mixture of vegetable and animal food2 but aquatic insects1 corn1 and vegetables1 are its proper food4 ,its flesh1 however1 is savoury1 being not so gross as that of the goose1 and of easier digestion4 ,in the green-pea season it is usually found on an ,english table2 but1 according to ,ude1 ,november is its proper season1 when it is plump and fat4 ,,to ,,ragout ,a ,,duck ,,whole4 #icc4 ,,ingredients4--#a large duck1 pepper and salt to taste1 good beef gravy1 #b onions sliced1 #d sage-leaves1 a few leaves of lemon thyme1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,after having emptied and singed the duck1 season it inside with pepper and salt1 and truss it4 ,roast it before a clear fire for about #bj minutes1 and let it acquire a nice brown colour4 ,put it into a stewpan with sufficient well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it2 slice and fry the onions1 and add these1 with the sage-leaves and lemon thyme1 both of which should be finely minced1 to the stock4 ,simmer gently until the duck is tender2 strain1 skim1 and thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour2 boil it up1 pour over the duck1 and serve4 ,when in season1 about1 #a-a_/b pint of young green peas1 boiled separately1 and put in the ragot1 very much improve this dish4 ,time4--#bj minutes to roast the duck2 #bj minutes to stew it4 ,average cost1 from #bs4 #c;d4 to #bs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february2 ducklings from ,april to ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,buenos ,,ayres ,,ducks4 ,,the ,,buenos ,,ayres ,,duck4--,the ,buenos ,ayres duck is of ,east-,indian birth1 and is chiefly valuable as an ornament2 for we suppose one would as soon think of picking a ,chinese teal for luncheon1 or a gold fish for breakfast1 as to consign the handsome ,buenos ,ayres to the spit4 ,the prevailing colour of this bird is black1 with a metallic lustre1 and a gleaming of blue steel about its breast and wings4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,ducks4--,naturalists count nearly a hundred different species of ducks2 and there is no doubt that the intending keeper of these harmless and profitable birds may easily take his choice from amongst twenty different sorts4 ,there is1 however1 so little difference in the various members of the family1 either as regards hardiness1 laying1 or hatching1 that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his taste without danger of making a bad bargain4 ,in connection with their value for table1 light-coloured ducks are always of milder flavour than those that are dark-coloured1 the white ,aylesbury's being general favourites4 ,ducks reared exclusively on vegetable diet will have a whiter and more delicate flesh than those allowed to feed on animal offal2 while the flesh of birds fattened on the latter food1 will be firmer than that of those which have only partaken of food of a vegetable nature4 ,,roast ,,ducks4 #icd4 ,,ingredients4--,a couple of ducks2 sage-and-onion stuffing ,no4 #ejd2 a little flour4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose ducks with plump bellies1 and with thick and yellowish feet4 ,they should be trussed with the feet on1 which should be scalded1 and the skin peeled off1 and then turned up close to the legs4 ,run a skewer through the middle of each leg1 after having drawn them as close as possible to the body1 to plump up the breast1 passing the same quite through the body4 ,cut off the heads and necks1 and the pinions at the first joint2 bring these close to the sides1 twist the feet round1 and truss them at the back of the bird4 ,after the duck is stuffed1 both ends should be secured with string1 so as to keep in the seasoning4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,duck4 ,mode4--,to insure ducks being tender1 never dress them the same day they are killed2 and if the weather permits1 they should hang a day or two4 ,make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck1 and leave the other unseasoned1 as the flavour is not liked by everybody4 ,put them down to a brisk clear fire1 and keep them well basted the whole of the time they are cooking4 ,a few minutes before serving1 dredge them lightly with flour1 to make them froth and look plump2 and when the steam draws towards the fire1 send them to table hot and quickly1 with a good brown gravy poured round1 but not over the ducks1 and a little of the same in a tureen4 ,when in season1 green peas should invariably accompany this dish4 ,time4--,full-grown ducks from #c_/d to #a hour2 ducklings from #be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 from #bs4 #c;d4 to #bs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,a4 couple of ducks for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable4--,ducklings from ,april to ,august2 ducks from ,november to ,february4 ,note4--,ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner1 and served with the same sauces and accompaniments4 ,when in season1 serve apple sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,rouen ,,ducks4 ,,the ,,rouen ,,duck4--,the ,rouen1 or ,rhone duck1 is a large and handsome variety1 of ,french extraction4 ,the plumage of the ,rouen duck is somewhat sombre2 its flesh is also much darker1 and1 though of higher flavour1 not near so delicate as that of our own ,aylesbury4 ,it is with this latter breed that the ,rouen duck is generally mated2 and the result is said to be increase of size and strength4 ,in ,normandy and ,brittany these ducks1 as well as other sorts1 greatly abound2 and the duck-liver pts are there almost as popular as the pt de foie gras of ,strasburg4 ,in order to bring the livers of the wretched duck to the fashionable and unnatural size1 the same diabolical cruelty is resorted to as in the case of the ,strasburg goose4 ,the poor birds are nailed by the feet to a board placed close to a fire1 and1 in that position1 plentifully supplied with food and water4 ,in a few days1 the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow1 while the liver has grown monstrously4 ,we would rather abstain from the acquaintance of a man who ate pt de foie gras1 knowing its component parts4 ,,duck',s ,,eggs4--,the ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a tendency to curve upwards1 are better layers than those whose beaks do not thus point1 is1 we need hardly say1 simply absurd3 all ducks are good layers1 if they are carefully fed and tended4 ,ducks generally lay at night1 or early in the morning4 ,while they are in perfect health1 they will do this2 and one of the surest signs of indisposition1 among birds of this class1 is irregularity in laying4 ,the eggs laid will approach nearly the colour of the layer1--light-coloured ducks laying white eggs1 and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs2 dark-coloured birds laying the largest eggs4 ,one time of day the notion was prevalent that a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own2 and although this is not true1 it will be1 nevertheless1 as well to match the duck's own eggs as closely as possible2 for we have known instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and destroyed eggs differing from her own in size and colour4 ,,ducks4--,the ,mallard1 or ,wild ,duck1 from which is derived the domestic species1 is prevalent throughout ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,america4 ,the mallard's most remarkable characteristic is one which sets at defiance the speculations of the most profound ornithologist4 ,the female bird is extremely plain1 but the male's plumage is a splendour of greens and browns1 and browns and blues4 ,in the spring1 however1 the plumage of the male begins to fade1 and in two months1 every vestige of his finery has departed1 and he is not to be distinguished from his soberly-garbed wife4 ,then the greens1 and the blues1 and the browns begin to bud out again1 and by ,october he is once more a gorgeous drake4 ,it is to be regretted that domestication has seriously deteriorated the moral character of the duck4 ,in a wild state1 he is a faithful husband1 desiring but one wife1 and devoting himself to her2 but no sooner is he domesticated than he becomes polygamous1 and makes nothing of owning ten or a dozen wives at a time4 ,as regards the females1 they are much more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild state than a tame4 ,should a tame duck's duckling get into mortal trouble1 its mother will just signify her sorrow by an extra quack1 or so1 and a flapping of her wings2 but touch a wild duck's little one if you dare6 she will buffet you with her broad wings1 and dash boldly at your face with her stout beak4 ,if you search for her nest amongst the long grass1 she will try no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it1 her favourite ruse being to pretend lameness1 to delude you into the notion that you have only to pursue her vigorously1 and her capture is certain2 so you persevere for half a mile or so1 and then she is up and away1 leaving you to find your way back to the nest if you can4 ,among the ancients1 opinion was at variance respecting the wholesomeness and digestibility of goose flesh1 but concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed2 indeed1 they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for exquisite flavour and delicacy1 they even attributed to it medicinal powers of the highest order4 ,not only the ,roman medical writers of the time make mention of it1 but likewise the philosophers of the period4 ,plutarch assures us that ,cato preserved his whole household in health1 in a season when plague and disease were rife1 through dieting them on roast duck4 ,,stewed ,,duck ,,and ,,peas 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ice4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast duck1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c or #d slices of lean ham or bacon1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #b pints of thin gravy1 #a1 or a small bunch of green onions1 #c sprigs of parsley1 #c cloves1 #a pint of young green peas1 cayenne and salt to taste1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a stewpan2 cut up the duck into joints1 lay them in with the slices of lean ham or bacon2 make it brown1 then dredge in a tablespoonful of flour1 and stir this well in before adding the gravy4 ,put in the onion1 parsley1 cloves1 and gravy1 and when it has simmered for #a_/d hour1 add a pint of young green peas1 and stew gently for about #a_/b hour4 ,season with cayenne1 salt1 and sugar2 take out the duck1 place it round the dish1 and the peas in the middle4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold duck1 #as4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august4 ,,ducks ,,hatching4--,concerning incubation by ducks1 a practised writer says1 ,the duck requires a secret and safe place1 rather than any attendance1 and will1 at nature's call1 cover her eggs and seek her food4 ,on hatching1 there is not often a necessity for taking away any of the brood2 and1 having hatched1 let the mother retain her young ones upon the nest her own time4 ,on her moving with her brood1 let a coop be prepared upon the short grass1 if the weather be fine1 and under shelter1 if otherwise4 ,,cooping ,,and ,,feeding ,,ducklings4--,brood ducks should be cooped at some distance from any other4 ,a wide and flat dish of water1 to be often renewed1 should stand just outside the coop1 and barley1 or any other meal1 be the first food of the ducklings4 ,it will be needful1 if it be wet weather1 to clip their tails1 lest these draggle1 and so weaken the bird4 ,the period of the duck's confinement to the coop will depend on the weather1 and on the strength of the ducklings4 ,a fortnight is usually the extent of time necessary1 and they may even be sometimes permitted to enjoy the luxury of a swim at the end of a week4 ,they should not1 however1 be allowed to stay too long in the water at first2 for they will then become ill1 their feathers get rough1 and looseness of the bowels ensue4 ,in the latter case1 let them be closely cooped for a few days1 and bean-meal or oatmeal be mixed with their ordinary food4 ,illustration3 ,,aylesbury ,,ducks4 ,,the ,,aylesbury ,,duck4--,the white ,aylesbury duck is1 and deservedly1 a universal favourite4 ,its snowy plumage and comfortable comportment make it a credit to the poultry-yard1 while its broad and deep breast1 and its ample back1 convey the assurance that your satisfaction will not cease at its death4 ,in parts of ,buckinghamshire1 this member of the duck family is bred on an extensive scale2 not on plains and commons1 however1 as might be naturally imagined1 but in the abodes of the cottagers4 ,round the walls of the living-rooms1 and of the bedroom even1 are fixed rows of wooden boxes1 lined with hay2 and it is the business of the wife and children to nurse and comfort the feathered lodgers1 to feed the little ducklings1 and to take the old ones out for an airing4 ,sometimes the stock ducks are the cottager's own property1 but it more frequently happens that they are intrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder1 who pays him so much per score for all ducklings properly raised4 ,to be perfect1 the ,aylesbury duck should be plump1 pure white1 with yellow feet1 and a flesh-coloured beak4 ,,stewed ,,duck ,,and ,,peas 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #icf4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast duck1 #a_/b pint of good gravy1 cayenne and salt to taste1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #b oz1 of butter rolled in flour1 #a-a_/b pint of green peas4 ,mode4--,cut up the duck into joints1 lay it in the gravy1 and add a seasoning of cayenne1 salt1 and minced lemon-peel2 let tins gradually warm through1 but not boil4 ,throw the peas into boiling water slightly salted1 and boil them rapidly until tender4 ,drain them1 stir in the pounded sugar1 and the butter rolled in flour2 shake them over the fire for two or three minutes1 and serve in the centre of the dish1 with the duck laid round4 ,time4--#ae minutes to boil the peas1 when they are full grown4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold duck1 #aj;d4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august4 ,,fattening ,,ducks4--,many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in the shape of food1 letting them wander about and pick up a living for themselves2 and they will seem to get fat even upon this precarious feeding4 ,unless1 however1 ducks are supplied with1 besides chance food1 a liberal feed of solid corn1 or grain1 morning and evening1 their flesh will become flabby and insipid4 ,the simple way to fatten ducks is to let them have as much1 substantial food as they will eat1 bruised oats and pea-meal being the standard fattening food for them4 ,no cramming is required1 as with the turkey and some other poultry3 they will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation4 ,at the same time1 plenty of exercise and clean water should be at their service4 ,,american ,,mode ,,of ,,capturing ,,ducks4--,on the ,american rivers1 the modes of capture are various4 ,sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft1 and which is so weighted that the sham birds squat naturally on the water4 ,this is quite sufficient to attract the notice of a passing flock1 who descend to cultivate the acquaintance of the isolated few when the concealed hunter1 with his fowling-piece1 scatters a deadly leaden shower amongst them4 ,in the winter1 when the water is covered with rubble ice1 the fowler of the ,delaware paints his canoe entirely white1 lies flat in the bottom of it1 and floats with the broken ice2 from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to distinguish it4 ,so floats the canoe till he within it understands1 by the quacking1 and fluttering1 and whirring of wings1 that he is in the midst of a flock1 when he is up in a moment with the murderous piece1 and dying quacks and lamentations rend the still air4 ,illustration3 ,,bow-,,bill ,,ducks4 ,bow-,,bill ,,ducks1 c4--,every one knows how awkward are the ,anatidae1 waddling along on their unelastic webbed toes1 and their short legs1 which1 being placed considerably backward1 make the fore part of the body preponderate4 ,some1 however1 are formed more adapted to terrestrial habits than others1 and notably amongst these may be named ,dendronessa sponsa1 the summer duck of ,america4 ,this beautiful bird rears her young in the holes of trees1 generally overhanging the water4 ,when strong enough1 the young scramble to the mouth of the hole1 launch into the air with their little wings and feet spread out1 and drop into their favourite element4 ,whenever their birthplace is at some distance from the water1 the mother carries them to it1 one by one1 in her bill1 holding them so as not to injure their yet tender frame4 ,on several occasions1 however1 when the hole was #cj1 #dj1 or more yards from a piece of water1 ,audubon observed that the mother suffered the young to fall on the grass and dried leaves beneath the tree1 and afterwards led them directly to the nearest edge of the next pool or creek4 ,there are some curious varieties of the domestic duck1 which only appear interesting from their singularity1 for there does not seem to be anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which distinguish them2 thus1 the bow-bill duck1 as shown in the engraving1 called by some writers the hook-bill1 is remarkable for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak1 and the tuft on the top of its head4 ,the penguin duck1 again1 waddles in an upright position1 like the penguin1 on account of the unnatural situation of its legs4 ,these odd peculiarities add nothing of value to the various breeds1 and may be set down as only the result of accidental malformation1 transmitted from generation to generation4 ,,stewed ,,duck ,,and ,,turnips 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #icg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast duck1 #a_/b pint of good gravy1 #d shalots1 a few slices of carrot1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a lb4 of turnips1 weighed after being peeled1 #b oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut up the duck into joints1 fry the shalots1 carrots1 and herbs1 and put them1 with the duck1 into the gravy2 add the pounded mace1 and stew gently for #bj minutes or #a_/b hour4 ,cut about #a lb4 of turnips1 weighed after being peeled1 into #a_/b-;inch squares1 put the butter into a stewpan1 and stew them till quite tender1 which will be in about #a_/b hour1 or rather more2 season with pepper and salt1 and serve in the centre of the dish1 with the duck1 c4 laid round4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour to stew the turnips4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold duck1 #as4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,,the ,,wild ,,duck4--,in many parts of ,england the wild duck is to be found1 especially in those desolate fenny parts where water abounds4 ,in ,lincolnshire they are plentiful1 and are annually taken in the decoys1 which consist of ponds situate in the marshes1 and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from1 being disturbed4 ,in these the birds sleep during the day2 and as soon as evening sets in1 the decoy rises1 and the wild fowl feed during the night4 ,now is the time for the decoy ducks to entrap the others4 ,from the ponds diverge1 in different directions1 certain canals1 at the end of which funnel nets are placed2 along these the decoy ducks1 trained for the purpose1 lead the others in search of food4 ,after they have got a certain length1 a decoy-man appears1 and drives them further on1 until they are finally taken in the nets4 ,it is from these decoys1 in ,lincolnshire1 that the ,london market is mostly supplied4 ,the ,chinese have a singular mode of catching these ducks4 ,a person wades in the water up to the chin1 and1 having his head covered with an empty calabash1 approaches the place where the ducks are4 ,as the birds have no suspicion of the nature of the object which is concealed under the calabash1 they suffer its approach1 and allow it to move at will among their flock4 ,the man1 accordingly1 walks about in the midst of his game1 and1 whenever he pleases1 pulls them by the legs under the water1 and fixes them to his belt1 until he has secured as many as he requires1 and then moves off as he went amongst them1 without exciting the slightest suspicion of the trick he has been playing them4 ,this singular mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the ,ganges1 the earthen vessels of the ,hindoos being used instead of calabashes4 ,these vessels1 being those in which the inhabitants boil their rice1 are considered1 after once being used1 as defiled1 and are accordingly thrown into the river4 ,the duck-takers1 finding them suitable for their purpose1 put them on their heads2 and as the ducks1 from seeing them constantly floating down the stream1 are familiar with their appearance1 they regard them as objects from which no danger is to be expected4 ,illustration3 ,,call-,,ducks4 ,,duck-,,snares ,,in ,,the ,,lincolnshire ,,fens4--,the following interesting account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the ,lincolnshire fens1 was published some years ago1 in a work entitled the ,feathered ,tribes4--,in the lakes to which they resorted1 their favourite haunts were observed1 and in the most sequestered part of a haunt1 a pipe or ditch was cut across the entrance1 decreasing gradually in width from the entrance to the further end1 which was not more than two feet wide4 ,the ditch was of a circular form1 but did not bend much for the first ten yards4 ,the banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept clear of weeds and close herbage1 in order that the ducks might get on them to sit and dress themselves4 ,along the ditch1 poles were driven into the ground close to the edge on each side1 and the tops were bent over across the ditch and tied together4 ,the poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch1 and formed an arch1 the top of which was tea feet distant from the surface of the water2 the arch was made to decrease in height as the ditch decreased in width1 so that the remote end was not more than eighteen inches in height4 ,the poles were placed about six feet from each other1 and connected by poles laid lengthwise across the arch1 and tied together4 ,over the whole was thrown a net1 which was made fast to a reed fence at the entrance and nine or ten yards up the ditch1 and afterwards strongly pegged to the ground4 ,at the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance1 was fixed what was called a tunnel-net1 of about four yards in length1 of a round form1 and kept open by a number of hoops about eighteen inches in diameter1 placed at a small distance from each other to keep it distended4 ,supposing the circular bend of the ditch to be to the right1 when one stands with his back to the lake1 then on the left-hand side1 a number of reed fences were constructed1 called shootings1 for the purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation1 and1 in such a manner1 that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed while he was driving those that were in the pipe4 ,these shootings1 which were ten in number1 were about four yards in length and about six feet high4 ,from the end of the last shooting a person could not see the lake1 owing to the bend of the ditch2 and there was then no further occasion for shelter4 ,were it not for these shootings1 the fowl that remained about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed1 if the person driving the fowl already under the net should have been exposed1 and would have become so shy as entirely to forsake the place4 ,,the ,,decoy ,,man1 ,,dog1 ,,and ,,ducks4--,the first thing the decoy-man did1 on approaching the ditch1 was to take a piece of lighted peat or turf1 and to hold it near his mouth1 to prevent the birds from smelling him4 ,he was attended by a dog trained to render him assistance4 ,he walked very silently about halfway up the shootings1 where a small piece of wood was thrust through the reed fence1 which made an aperture just large enough to enable him to see if there were any fowl within2 if not1 he walked to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch4 ,if there were1 he stopped1 made a motion to his dog1 and gave him a piece of cheese to eat1 when the dog went directly to a hole through the reed fence1 and the birds immediately flew off the back into the water4 ,the dog returned along the bank between the reed fences1 and came out to his master at another hole4 ,the man then gave the dog something more to encourage him1 and the dog repeated his rounds1 till the birds were attracted by his motions1 and followed him into the mouth of the ditch--an operation which was called 'working them4' ,the man now retreated further back1 working the dog at different holes1 until the ducks were sufficiently under the net4 ,he then commanded his dog to lie down under the fence1 and going himself forward to the end of the ditch next the lake1 he took off his hat1 and gave it a wave between the shootings4 ,all the birds that were under the net could then see him1 but none that were in the lake could4 ,the former flew forward1 and the man then ran to the next shooting1 and waved his hat1 and so on1 driving them along until they came into the tunnel-net1 into which they crept4 ,when they were all in1 the man gave the net a twist1 so as to prevent them getting back4 ,he then took the net off from the end of the ditch1 and taking out1 one by one1 the ducks that were in it1 dislocated their necks4 ,,boiled ,,fowls ,,or ,,chickens4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,fowl4 #ich4 ,,ingredients4--,a pair of fowls2 water4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,in choosing fowls for boiling1 it should be borne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally much whiter when dressed4 ,pick1 draw1 singe1 wash1 and truss them in the following manner1 without the livers in the wings2 and1 in drawing1 be careful not to break the gall-bladder3--,cut off the neck1 leaving sufficient skin to skewer back4 ,cut the feet off to the first joint1 tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly1 twist the wings over the back of the fowl1 and secure the top of the leg and the bottom of the wing together by running a skewer through them and the body4 ,the other side must be done in the same manner4 ,should the fowl be very large and old1 draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in4 ,make a slit in the apron of the fowl1 large enough to admit the parson's nose1 and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place4 ,mode4--,when1 they are firmly trussed1 put them into a stewpan with plenty of hot water2 bring it to boil1 and carefully remove all the scum as it rises4 ,simmer very gently until the fowl is tender1 and bear in mind that the slower it boils1 the plumper and whiter will the fowl be4 ,many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth to preserve the colour1 and to prevent the scum from clinging to them2 in this case1 a few slices of lemon should be placed on the breasts2 over these a sheet of buttered paper1 and then the cloth2 cooking them in this manner renders the flesh very white4 ,boiled ham1 bacon1 boiled tongue1 or pickled pork1 are the usual accompaniments to boiled fowls1 and they may be served with ,bchamel1 white sauce1 parsley and butter1 oyster1 lemon1 liver1 celery1 or mushroom sauce4 ,a little should be poured over the fowls1 after the skewers are removed1 and the remainder sent in a tureen to table4 ,time4--,large fowl1 #a hour2 moderate-sized one1 #c_/d hour2 chicken1 from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #es4 the pair4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but scarce in early spring4 ,illustration3 ,,game-,,fowls4 ,,the ,,game ,,fowl4--,respecting the period at which this well-known member of the ,gallus family became domesticated1 history is silent4 ,there is little doubt1 however1 that1 like the dog1 it has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to civilization4 ,although the social position of this bird is1 at the present time1 highly respectable1 it is nothing to what it was when ,rome was mistress of the world4 ,writing at that period1 ,pliny says1 respecting the domestic cock1 ,the gait of the cock is proud and commanding2 he walks with head erect and elevated crest2 alone1 of all birds1 he habitually looks up to the sky1 raising1 at the same time1 his curved and scythe-formed tail1 and inspiring terror in the lion himself1 that most intrepid of animals4----,they regulate the conduct of our magistrates1 and open or close to them their own houses4 ,they prescribe rest or movement to the ,roman fasces3 they command or prohibit battles4 ,in a word1 they lord it over the masters of the world4 ,as well among the ancient ,greeks as the ,romans1 was the cock regarded with respect1 and even awe4 ,the former people practised divinations by means of this bird4 ,supposing there to be a doubt in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle1 the letter of every day in the week would be placed face downwards1 and a grain of corn placed on each2 then the sacred cock would be let loose1 and1 according to the letters he pecked his corn from1 so would the battle-time be regulated4 ,on one momentous occasion1 however1 a person inimical to priestly interest officiously examined the grain1 and found that those lying on the letters not wanted were made of wax1 and the birds1 preferring the true grain1 left these untouched4 ,it is needless to add that1 after this1 divination through the medium of cocks and grain fell out of fashion4 ,whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were of the game breed1 is unknown2 but that the birds were bred for the inhuman sport of fighting many hundred years before the ,christian era1 there can be no doubt4 ,themistocles1 the ,athenian king1 who flourished more than two thousand years ago1 took advantage of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to harangue his soldiers on courage4 ,observe1 said he1 with what intrepid valour they fight1 inspired by no other motive than lore of victory2 whereas you have to contend for your religion and your liberty1 for your wives and children1 and for the tombs of your ancestors4 ,and to this day his courage has not degenerated4 ,he still preserves his bold and elegant gait1 his sparkling eye1 while his wedge-shaped beak and cruel spurs are ever ready to support his defiant crow4 ,it is no wonder that the breed is not plentiful--first1 on account of the few eggs laid by the hen2 and1 secondly1 from the incurable pugnacity of the chicks4 ,half fledged broods may be found blind as bats from fighting1 and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be at it again4 ,without doubt1 the flesh of game fowls is every way superior to that of every chicken of the family4 ,,broiled ,,fowl ,,and ,,mushroom ,,sauce4 #ici4 ,,ingredients4--,a large fowl1 seasoning1 to taste1 of pepper and salt1 #b handfuls of button mushrooms1 #a slice of lean ham1 #c_/d pint of thickened gravy1 #a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,cut the fowl into quarters1 roast it until three-parts done1 and keep it well basted whilst at the fire4 ,take the fowl up1 broil it for a few minutes over a clear fire1 and season it with pepper and salt4 ,have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner4 ,put the mushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter1 the ham1 a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and the gravy2 simmer these gently for #a_/b hour1 add the lemon-juice and sugar1 dish the fowl1 and pour the sauce round them4 ,time4--,to roast the fowl1 #ce minutes2 to broil it1 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable4--,in full season from ,may to ,january4 ,illustration3 ,,black ,,bantams4 ,,the ,,bantam4--,no one will dispute that for beauty1 animation1 plumage1 and courage the ,bantam is entitled to rank next to the game fowl4 ,as its name undoubtedly implies1 the bird is of ,asiatic origin4 ,the choicest sorts are the buff-coloured1 and those that are entirely black4 ,a year-old ,bantam cock of pure breed will not weigh more than sixteen ounces4 ,despite its small size1 however1 it is marvellously bold1 especially in defence of its progeny4 ,a friend of the writer's1 residing at ,kensington1 possessed a pair of thorough-bred ,bantams1 that were allowed the range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kennelled4 ,the hen had chicks2 and1 when about three weeks old1 one of them strayed into the dog-kennel4 ,the grim beast within took no notice of the tiny fledgling2 but1 when the anxious mother ventured in to fetch out the truant1 with a growl the dog woke1 and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws4 ,the cock bird saw the tragic fate of its partner2 but1 nothing daunted1 flew at the dog with a fierce cry1 and pecked savagely at its face4 ,the odds1 however1 were too great2 and1 when the terrier had sufficiently recovered from the astonishment caused by the sudden and unexpected attack1 he seized the audacious ,bantam1 and shook him to death2 and1 in five minutes1 the devoted couple were entombed in ,pincher's capacious maw4 ,,boiled ,,fowl ,,and ,,rice4 #idj4 ,,ingredients4--#a fowl1 mutton broth1 #b onions1 #b small blades of pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/d pint of rice1 parsley and butter4 ,mode4--,truss the fowl as for boiling1 and put it into a stewpan with sufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it2 add the onion1 mace1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 stew very gently for about #a hour1 should the fowl be large1 and about #a_/b hour before it is ready put in the rice1 which should be well washed and soaked4 ,when the latter is tender1 strain it from the liquor1 and put it on a sieve reversed to dry before the fire1 and1 in the mean time1 keep the fowl hot4 ,dish it1 put the rice round as a border1 pour a little parsley and butter over the fowl1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,time4--,a large fowl1 #a hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but scarce in early spring4 ,illustration3 ,,dorkings4 ,,the ,,dorking4--,this bird takes its name from that of a town in ,surrey1 where the breed is to be found in greater numbers1 and certainly in greater perfection1 than elsewhere4 ,it is generally believed that this particular branch of poultry was found in the town above mentioned as long ago as the ,roman era4 ,the ,dorking's chief characteristic is that he has five claws on each foot2 the extra claw1 however1 is never of sufficient length to encumber the foot1 or to cause it to drag its nest1 or scratch out the eggs4 ,the colour of the true ,dorking is pure white2 long in the body1 short in the legs1 and a prolific layer4 ,thirty years ago1 there was much controversy respecting the origin of the ,dorking4 ,the men of ,sussex declared that the bird belonged to them1 and brought birds indigenous to their weald1 and possessing all the ,dorking fine points and peculiarities1 in proof of the declaration4 ,others inclined to the belief that the ,poland bird was the father of the ,dorking1 and not without at least a show of reason1 as the former bird much resembles the latter in shape2 and1 despite its sombre hue1 it is well known that the ,poland cock will occasionally beget thorough white stock from white ,english hens4 ,the commotion has1 however1 long ago subsided1 and ,dorking still retains its fair reputation for fowl4 ,,curried ,,fowl4 #ida4 ,,ingredients4--#a fowl1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c onions sliced1 #a pint of white veal gravy1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a apple1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a stewpan1 with the onions sliced1 the fowl cut into small joints1 and the apple peeled1 cored1 and minced4 ,fry of a pale brown1 add the stock1 and stew gently for #bj minutes2 rub down the curry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy1 quite smoothly1 and stir this to the other ingredients2 simmer for rather more than #a_/b hour1 and just before serving1 add the above proportion of hot cream and lemon-juice4 ,serve with boiled rice1 which may either be heaped lightly on a dish by itself1 or put round the curry as a border4 ,time4--#ej minutes4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable in the winter4 ,note4--,this curry may be made of cold chicken1 but undressed meat will be found far superior4 ,,the ,,poland4--,this bird1 a native of ,holland1 is a great favourite with fowl-keepers1 especially those who have on eye to profit rather than to amusement4 ,those varieties known as the silver spangled and the gold spangled are handsome enough to please the most fastidious2 but the common black breed1 with the bushy crown of white feathers1 is but a plain bird4 ,the chief value of the common ,poland lies in the great number of eggs they produce2 indeed1 in many parts1 they are as well known as everlasting layers as by their proper name4 ,however1 the experienced breeder would take good care to send the eggs of his everlasting layers to market1 and not use them for home consumption1 as1 although they may be as large as those laid by other hens1 the amount of nutriment contained in them is not nearly so great4 ,mr4 ,mowbray once kept an account of the number of eggs produced by this prolific bird1 with the following result3--,from the #beth of ,october to the #beth of the following ,september five hens laid #ejc eggs2 the average weight of each egg was one ounce five drachms1 and the total weight of the whole1 exclusive of the shells1 #ej-a_/d pounds4 ,taking the weight of the birds at the fair average of five pounds each1 we thus see them producing within a year double their weight of egg alone2 and1 supposing every egg to contain a chick1 and allowing the chick to1 grow1 in less than eighteen months from the laying of the first egg1 two thousand five hundred pounds of chicken-meat would be the result4 ,the ,poland is easily fattened1 and its flesh is generally considered juicier and of richer flavour than most others4 ,illustration3 ,,spangled ,,polands4 ,,curried ,,fowl ,,or ,,chicken 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #idb4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowls1 #b large onions1 #a apple1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a dessertspoonful of curry-powder1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,slice the onions1 peel1 core1 and chop the apple1 and cut the fowl into neat joints2 fry these in the butter of a nice brown2 then add the curry-powder1 flour1 and gravy1 and stew for about #bj minutes4 ,put in the lemon-juice1 and serve with boiled rice1 either placed in a ridge round the dish or separately4 ,two or three shallots or a little garlic may be added1 if approved4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,av4 cost1 exclusive of the cold fowl1 #f;d4 ,seasonable in the winter4 ,illustration3 ,,cochin-,,chinas4 ,,the ,,cochin-,,china4--,about fifteen years ago1 the arrival of this distinguished ,asiatic created in ,england as great a sensation as might be expected from the landing of an invading host4 ,the first pair that ever made their appearance here were natives of ,shanghai1 and were presented to the queen1 who exhibited them at the ,dublin poultry-show of #ahah4 ,then began the ,cochin furor4 ,as soon as it was discovered1 despite the most strenuous endeavours to keep the tremendous secret1 that a certain dealer was possessed of a pair of these birds1 straightway the avenues to that dealer's shop were blocked by broughams1 and chariots1 and hack cabs1 until the shy poulterer had been tempted by a sufficiently high sum to part with his treasure4 ,bank-notes were exchanged for ,cochin chicks1 and ,cochin eggs were in as great demand as though they had been laid by the fabled golden goose4 ,the reign of the ,cochin ,china was1 however1 of inconsiderable duration4 ,the bird that1 in #ahdg1 would fetch thirty guineas1 is now counted but ordinary chicken-meat1 and its price is regulated according to its weight when ready for the spit4 ,as for the precious buff eggs1 against which1 one time of day1 guineas were weighed1--send for sixpenn'orth at the cheesemonger's1 and you will get at least five2 which is just as it should be4 ,for elegance of shape or quality of flesh1 the ,cochin cannot for a moment stand comparison with our handsome dunghill2 neither can the indescribable mixture of growling and braying1 peculiar to the former1 vie with the musical trumpeting of our own morning herald3 yet our poultry-breeders have been immense gainers by the introduction of the ungainly celestial1 inasmuch as new blood has been infused into the ,english chicken family4 ,of this incalculable advantage we may be sure2 while1 as to the ,cochin's defects1 they are certain to be lost in the process of cross and cross breeding4 ,,boiled ,,fowls ,a ,,la ,,bechamel4 #idc4 ,,ingredients4--,a pair of fowls1 #a pint of ,bchamel1 ,no1 #cfg1 a few bunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower4 ,mode4--,truss and boil the fowls by recipe ,no4 #ich2 make a pint of ,bchamel sauce by recipe ,no4 #cfg2 pour some of this over the fowls1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,garnish the dish with bunches of boiled cauliflowers or brocoli1 and serve very hot4 ,the sauce should be made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls2 that for the tureen should be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #a hour1 according to size4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #es4 a pair4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but scarce in early spring4 ,,space ,,for ,,fowls4--,we are no advocates for converting the domestic fowl into a cage-bird4 ,we have known amateur fowl-keepers--worthy souls1 who would butter the very barley they gave their pets1 if they thought they would the more enjoy it--coop up a male bird and three or four hens in an ordinary egg-chest placed on its side1 and with the front closely barred with iron hooping6 ,this system will not do4 ,every animal1 from man himself to the guinea-pig1 must have what is vulgarly1 but truly1 known as elbow-room2 and it must be self-evident how emphatically this rule applies to winged animals4 ,it may be urged1 in the case of domestic fowls1 that from constant disuse1 and from clipping and plucking1 and other sorts of maltreatment1 their wings can hardly be regarded as instruments of flight2 we maintain1 however1 that you may pluck a fowl's wing-joints as bare as a pumpkin1 but you will not erase from his memory that he is a fowl1 and that his proper sphere is the open air4 ,if he likewise reflects that he is an ill-used fowl--a prison-bird--he will then come to the conclusion1 that there is not the least use1 under such circumstances1 for his existence2 and you must admit that the decision is only logical and natural4 ,,boiled ,,fowl1 with ,oysters4 7,excellent47 #idd4 ,,ingredients4--#a young fowl1 #c dozen oysters1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #a_/d pint of cream4 ,mode4--,truss a young fowl as for boiling2 fill the inside with oysters which have been bearded and washed in their own liquor2 secure the ends of the fowl1 put it into a jar1 and plunge the jar into a saucepan of boiling water4 ,keep it boiling for #a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer2 then take the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl1 of which there will be a good quantity2 stir in the cream and yolks of eggs1 add a few oysters scalded in their liquor2 let the sauce get quite hot1 but do not allow it to boil2 pour some of it over the fowl1 and the remainder send to table in a tureen4 ,a blade of pounded mace added to the sauce1 with the cream and eggs1 will be found an improvement4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,april4 ,,the ,,fowl-,,house4--,in building a fowl-house1 take care that it be1 if possible1 built against a wall or fence that faces the south1 and thus insure its inmates against many cold winds1 driving rains1 and sleets they will otherwise suffer4 ,let the floor of the house slope half an inch to the foot from back to front1 so as to insure drainage2 let it also be close1 hard1 and perfectly smooth2 so that it may be cleanly swept out4 ,a capital plan is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth1 spread it over the floor1 and pay a paviour's labourer a trifle to hammer it level with his rammer4 ,the fowl-house should be seven feet high1 and furnished with perches at least two feet apart4 ,the perches must be level1 and not one above the other1 or unpleasant consequences may ensue to the undermost row4 ,the perches should be ledged 7not fixed--just dropped into sockets1 that they may be easily taken out and cleaned7 not lower than five feet from the ground1 convenient slips of wood being driven into the wall1 to render the ascent as easy as possible4 ,the front of the fowl-house should be latticed1 taking care that the interstices be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl through4 ,nesting-boxes1 containing soft hay1 and fitted against the walls1 so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder1 should be supplied4 ,it will be as well to keep by you a few portable doors1 so that you may hang one before the entrance to a nesting-box1 when the hen goes in to sit4 ,this will prevent other hens from intruding1 a habit to which some are much addicted4 ,,fricasseed ,,fowl ,,or ,,chicken 7an ,entree74 #ide4 ,,ingredients4--#b small fowls or #a large one1 #c oz4 of butter1 a bunch of parsley and green onions1 #a clove1 #b blades of mace1 #a shalot1 #a bay-leaf1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #a_/d pint of cream1 the yolks of #c eggs4 ,mode4--,choose a couple of fat plump chickens1 and1 after drawing1 singeing1 and washing them1 skin1 and carve them into joints2 blanch these in boiling water for #b or #c minutes2 take them out1 and immerse them in cold water to render them white4 ,put the trimmings1 with the necks and legs1 into a stewpan2 add the parsley1 onions1 clove1 mace1 shalot1 bay-leaf1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 pour to these the water that the chickens were blanched in1 and simmer gently for rather more than #a hour4 ,have ready another stewpan2 put in the joints of fowl1 with the above proportion of butter2 dredge them with flour1 let them get hot1 but do not brown them much2 then moisten the fricassee with the gravy made from the trimmings1 c41 and stew very gently for #a_/b hour4 ,lift the fowl into another stewpan1 skim the sauce1 reduce it quickly over the fire1 by letting it boil fast1 and strain it over them4 ,add the cream1 and a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne2 let it boil up1 and when ready to serve1 stir to it the well-beaten yolks of #c eggs3 these should not be put in till the last moment1 and the sauce should be made hot1 but must not boil1 or it will instantly curdle4 ,a few button-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many persons considered an improvement4 ,time4--#a hour to make the gravy1 #a_/b hour to simmer the fowl4 ,average cost1 #es4 the pair4 ,sufficient4--#a large fowl for one entre4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,stocking ,,the ,,fowl-,,house4--,take care that the birds with which you stock your house are young4 ,the surest indications of old age are fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a dingy brick-colour1 general paleness of plumage1 brittleness of the feathers1 length and size of the claws1 and the scales of the legs and feet assuming a ragged and corny appearance4 ,your cock and hens should be as near two years old as possible4 ,hens will lay at a year old1 but the eggs are always insignificant in size1 and the layers giddy and unsteady sitters4 ,the hen-bird is in her prime for breeding at three years old1 and will continue so1 under favourable circumstances1 for two years longer2 after which she will decline4 ,crowing hens1 and those that have large combs1 are generally looked on with mistrust2 but this is mere silliness and superstition--though it is possible that a spruce young cock would as much object to a spouse with such peculiar addictions1 as a young fellow of our own species would to a damsel who whistled and who wore whiskers4 ,fowls with yellow legs should be avoided2 they are generally of a tender constitution1 loose-fleshed1 and of indifferent flavour4 ,,fricasseed ,,fowl 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #idf4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #a strip of lemon-peel1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a onion1 popper and salt to taste1 #a pint of water1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #a_/d pint of cream1 the yolks of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,carve the fowls into nice joints2 make gravy of the trimmings and legs1 by stewing them with the lemon-peel1 mace1 herbs1 onion1 seasoning1 and water1 until reduced to #a_/b pint2 then strain1 and put in the fowl4 ,warm it through1 and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour2 stir the yolks of the eggs into the cream2 add these to the sauce1 let it get thoroughly hot1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,time4--#a hour to make the gravy1 #a_/d hour to warm the fowl4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold chicken1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,characteristics ,,of ,,health ,,and ,,power4--,the chief characteristics of health in a fowl are brightness and dryness of eye and nostrils1 the comb and wattles firm and ruddy1 the feathers elastic and glossy4 ,the most useful cock is generally the greatest tyrant1 who struts among his hens despotically1 with his head erect and his eyes ever watchful4 ,there is likely to be handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold1 active--even savage--bird reigns1 than where the lord of the hen-house is a weak1 meek creature1 who bears the abuse and peckings of his wives without a remonstrance4 ,i much prefer dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage4 ,a cock1 to be handsome1 should be of middling size2 his bill should be short1 comb bright-red1 wattles large1 breast broad1 and wings strong4 ,his head should be rather small than otherwise1 his legs short and sturdy1 and his spurs well-formed2 his feathers should be short and close1 and the more frequently and heartily he crows1 the better father he is likely to become4 ,the common error of choosing hens above the ordinary stature of their respective varieties should be avoided1 as the best breeding-hens are those of medium size4 ,,fried ,,fowls 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 ,i4 #idg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowls1 vinegar1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #c or #d minced shalots4 ,for the batter1--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of hot water1 #b oz4 of butter1 the whites of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,cut the fowl into nice joints2 steep them for an hour in a little vinegar1 with salt1 cayenne1 and minced shalots4 ,make the batter by mixing the flour and water smoothly together2 melt in it the butter1 and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth2 take out the pieces of fowl1 dip them in the batter1 and fry1 in boiling lard1 a nice brown4 ,pile them high in the dish1 and garnish with fried parsley or rolled bacon4 ,when approved1 a sauce or gravy may be served with them4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the fowl4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fowl1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,chanticleer ,,and ,,his ,,companions4--,on bringing the male and female birds together for the first time1 it will be necessary to watch the former closely1 as it is a very common occurrence with him to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his wives1 and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some distance of the others2 indeed1 ,i know many cases where the capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause of his resentment and killed her outright4 ,in all such cases1 the hen objected to should be removed and replaced by another4 ,if the cock should1 by any accident1 get killed1 considerable delicacy is required in introducing a new one4 ,the hens may mope1 and refuse to associate with their new husband1 clustering in corners1 and making odious comparisons between him and the departed2 or the cock may have his own peculiar notions as to what a wife should be1 and be by no means satisfied with those you have provided him4 ,the plan is1 to keep him by himself nearly the whole day1 supplying him plentifully with exhilarating food1 then to turn him loose among the hens1 and to continue this practice1 allowing him more of the society of his wives each day1 until you suffer him to abide with them altogether4 ,,ii4 #idh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 vinegar1 salt and cayenne to taste1 #d minced shalots1 yolk of egg2 to every teacupful of bread crumbs allow #a blade of pounded mace1 #e teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 a few grains of cayenne4 ,mode4--,steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe1 then dip them into the yolk of an egg or clarified butter2 sprinkle over bread crumbs with which have been mixed salt1 mace1 cayenne1 and lemon-peel in the above proportion4 ,fry a light brown1 and serve with or without gravy1 as may be preferred4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the fowl4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fowl1 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,fattening ,,fowls4--,it would1 ,i think1 be a difficult matter to find1 among the entire fraternity of fowl-keepers1 a dozen whose mode of fattening stock is the same4 ,some say that the grand f secret is to give them abundance of saccharine food2 others say nothing beats heavy corn steeped in milk2 while another breeder1 celebrated in his day1 and the recipient of a gold medal from a learned society1 says1 ,the best method is as follows3-,the chickens are to be taken from the hen the night after they are hatched1 and fed with eggs hard-boiled1 chopped1 and mixed with crumbs of bread1 as larks and other small birds are fed1 for the first fortnight2 after which give them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble1 of which the chickens are very fond1 and thrive so fast that1 at the end of two months1 they will be as large as full-grown fowls4 ,others there are who insist that nothing beats oleaginous diet1 and cram their birds with ground oats and suet4 ,but1 whatever the course of diet favoured1 on one point they seem agreed2 and that is1 that1 while fattening1 the fowls should be kept in the dark4 ,supposing the reader to be a dealer--a breeder of gross chicken meat for the market 7against which supposition the chances are #aj1jjj to #a71 and beset with as few scruples as generally trouble the huckster1 the advice is valuable4 ,laugh and grow fat is a good maxim enough2 but ,sleep and grow fat is1 as is well known to folks of porcine attributes1 a better4 ,the poor birds1 immured in their dark dungeons1 ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad1 tuck their heads under their wings and make a long night of it2 while their digestive organs1 having no harder work than to pile up fat1 have an easy time enough4 ,but1 unless we are mistaken1 he who breeds poultry for his own eating1 bargains for a more substantial reward than the questionable pleasure of burying his carving-knife in chicken grease4 ,tender1 delicate1 and nutritious flesh is the great aim2 and these qualities1 ,i can affirm without fear of contradiction1 were never attained by a dungeon-fatted chicken3 perpetual gloom and darkness is as incompatible with chicken life as it is with human4 ,if you wish to be convinced of the absurdity of endeavouring to thwart nature's laws1 plant a tuft of grass1 or a cabbage-plant1 in the darkest corner of your coal-cellar4 ,the plant or the tuft may increase in length and breadth1 but its colour will be as wan and pale1 almost1 as would be your own face under the circumstances4 ,,poulet ,a ,,la ,,marengo4 #idi4 ,,ingredients4--#a large fowl1 #d tablespoonfuls of salad oil1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 or water1 about #bj mushroom-buttons1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of powdered sugar1 a very small piece of garlic4 ,mode4--,cut the fowl into #h or #aj pieces2 put them with the oil into a stewpan1 and brown them over a moderate fire2 dredge in the above proportion of flour2 when that is browned1 pour in the stock or water2 let it simmer very slowly for rather more than #a_/b hour1 and skim off the fat as it rises to the top2 add the mushrooms2 season with salt1 pepper1 garlic1 and sugar2 take out the fowl1 which arrange pyramidically on the dish1 with the inferior joints at the bottom4 ,reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire1 keeping it stirred until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon2 pour over the fowl1 and serve4 ,time4--,altogether #ej minutes4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,fowl ,,la ,,marengo4--,the following is the origin of the well-known dish ,poulet la ,marengo3--,on the evening of the battle the first consul was very hungry after the agitation of the day1 and a fowl was ordered with all expedition4 ,the fowl was procured1 but there was no butter at hand1 and unluckily none could be found in the neighbourhood4 ,there was oil in abundance1 however2 and the cook having poured a certain quantity into his skillet1 put in the fowl1 with a clove of garlic and other seasoning1 with a little white wine1 the best the country afforded2 he then garnished it with mushrooms1 and served it up hot4 ,this dish proved the second conquest of the day1 as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate1 and expressed his satisfaction4 ,ever since1 a fowl la ,marengo is a favourite dish with all lovers of good cheer4 ,,minced ,,fowl ,a ,,la ,,bechamel4 #iej4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #f tablespoonfuls of ,bchamel sauce ,no4 #cfg1 #f tablespoonfuls of white stock ,no4 #ajg1 the white of #a egg1 bread crumbs1 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,take the remains of roast fowls1 mince the white meat very small1 and put it into a stewpan with the ,bchamel and stock2 stir it well over the fire1 and just let it boil up4 ,pour the mince into a dish1 beat up the white of egg1 spread it over1 and strew on it a few grated bread crumbs2 pour a very little clarified butter on the whole1 and brown either before the fire or with a salamander4 ,this should be served in a silver dish1 if at hand4 ,time4--#b or #c minutes to simmer in the sauce4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,best ,,way ,,to ,,fatten ,,fowls4--,the barn-door fowl is in itself a complete refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of feeding practised by some4 ,this fowl1 which has the common run of the farm-yard1 living on dairy-scraps and offal from the stable1 begins to grow fat at threshing-time4 ,he has his fill of the finest corn2 he has his fill of fresh air and natural exercise1 and at last he comes smoking to the table1--a dish for the gods4 ,in the matter of unnaturally stuffing and confining fowls1 ,mowbray is exactly of our opinion4 ,he says3 ,the ,london chicken-butchers1 as they are termed1 are said to be1 of all others1 the most expeditious and dexterous feeders1 putting up a coop of fowls1 and making them thoroughly fat within the space of a fortnight1 using much grease1 and that perhaps not of the most delicate kind1 in the food4 ,in this way ,i have no boasts to make1 having always found it necessary to allow a considerable number of weeks for the purpose of making fowls fat in coops4 ,in the common way this business is often badly managed1 fowls being huddled together in a small coop1 tearing each other to pieces1 instead of enjoying that repose which alone can insure1 the wished-for object--irregularly fed and cleaned1 until they become so stenched and poisoned in their own excrement1 that their flesh actually smells and tastes when smoking upon the table4 ,sussex produces the fattest and largest poultry of any county in ,england1 and the fatting process there most common is to give them a gruel made of pot-liquor and bruised oats1 with which are mixed hog's grease1 sugar1 and milk4 ,the fowls are kept very warm1 and crammed morning and night4 ,they are put into the coop1 and kept there two or three days before the cramming begins1 and then it is continued for a fortnight1 and the birds are sent to market4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,fowl4 #iea4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowls1 #c shalots1 #b blades of mace1 a faggot of savoury herbs1 #b or three slices of lean ham1 #a pint of stock or water1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a onion1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #a oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,cut the fowls up into neat pieces1 the same as for a fricassee2 put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots1 mace1 herbs1 ham1 onion1 and stock 7water may be substituted for this74 ,boil it slowly for #a hour1 strain the liquor1 and put a small piece of butter into a stewpan2 when melted1 dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the butter1 and stir it over the fire4 ,put in the strained liquor1 boil for a few minutes1 and strain it again over the pieces of fowl4 ,squeeze in the lemon-juice1 add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt1 make it hot1 but do not allow it to boil2 lay the fowl neatly on the dish1 and garnish with crotons4 ,time4--,altogether #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fowl1 #i;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,best ,,fowls ,,to ,,fatten1 c4--,the chicks most likely to fatten well are those first hatched in the brood1 and those with the shortest legs4 ,long-legged fowls1 as a rule1 are by far the most difficult to fatten4 ,the most delicate sort are those which are put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them2 for1 as says an old writer1 then they will be in fine condition1 and full of flesh1 which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of foraging for food1 and in the increase of stature2 and it may be a work of some weeks to recover it1--especially with young cocks4 ,but whether you take them in hand as chicks1 or not till they are older1 the three prime rules to be observed are1 sound and various food1 warmth1 and cleanliness4 ,there is nothing that a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as his water4 ,if water any way foul be offered him1 he will not drink it1 but sulk with his food1 and pine1 and you all the while wondering the reason why4 ,keep them separate1 allowing to each bird as much space as you can spare4 ,spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel2 take care that they are not disturbed4 ,in addition to their regular diet of good corn1 make them a cake of ground oats or beans1 brown sugar1 milk1 and mutton suet4 ,let the cake lie till it is stale1 then crumble it1 and give each bird a gill-measureful morning and evening4 ,no entire grain should be given to fowls during the time they are fattening2 indeed1 the secret of success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food without stint1 and in such a form that their digestive mills shall find no difficulty in grinding it4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,fowl4 ,,roast ,,fowls4 #ieb4 ,,ingredients4--,a pair of fowls2 a little flour4 ,mode4--,fowls to be tender should be killed a couple of days before they are dressed2 when the feathers come out easily1 then let them be picked and cooked4 ,in drawing them1 be careful not to break the gall-bag1 as1 wherever it touches1 it would impart a very bitter taste2 the liver and gizzard should also be preserved4 ,truss them in the following manner3--,after having carefully picked them1 cut off the head1 and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back4 ,cut off the claws2 dip the legs in boiling water1 and scrape them2 turn the pinions under1 run a skewer through them and the middle of the legs1 which should be passed through the body to the pinion and leg on the other side1 one skewer securing the limbs on both sides4 ,the liver and gizzard should be placed in the wings1 the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other4 ,tie the legs together by passing a trussing-needle1 threaded with twine1 through the backbone1 and secure it on the other side4 ,if trussed like a capon1 the legs are placed more apart4 ,when firmly trussed1 singe them all over2 put them down to a bright clear fire1 paper the breasts with a sheet of buttered paper1 and keep the fowls well basted4 ,roast them for #c_/d hour1 more or less1 according to the size1 and #aj minutes before serving1 remove the paper1 dredge the fowls with a little fine flour1 put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle1 and as it melts1 baste the fowls with it2 when nicely frothed and of a rich colour1 serve with good brown gravy1 a little of which should be poured over the fowls1 and a tureen of well-made bread sauce1 ,no4 #cga4 ,mushroom1 oyster1 or egg sauce are very suitable accompaniments to roast fowl4--,chicken is roasted in the same manner4 ,time4--,a very large fowl1 quite #a hour1 medium-sized one #c_/d hour1 chicken #a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #es4 a pair2 when scarce1 #gs4 #f;d4 the pair4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but scarce in early spring4 ,,the ,,diseases ,,of ,,fowls1 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,cure ,,them4--,the diseases to which ,gallus domesticus is chiefly liable1 are roup1 pip1 scouring1 and chip4 ,the first-mentioned is the most common of all1 and results from cold4 ,the ordinary symptoms1--swollen eyes1 running at the nostrils1 and the purple colour of the wattles4 ,part birds so affected from the healthy ones1 as1 when the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders among horses4 ,wash out the nostrils with warm water1 give daily a peppercorn inclosed in dough2 bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water4 ,if the head is much swollen1 bathe with warm brandy and water4 ,when the bird is getting well1 put half a spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water4 ,some fanciers prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table salt1 dissolved in half a gill of water1 in which rue has been steeped2 others1 pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter3 but the remedy first mentioned will be found far the best4 ,as there is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of the eggs laid by roupy hens1 it will be as well to throw them away4 ,the pip is a white horny skin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue4 ,it should be removed with the point of a penknife1 and the place rubbed with salt4 ,,fowl ,,and ,,rice ,,croquettes 7an ,entree74 #iec4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of rice1 #a quart of stock or broth1 #c oz4 of butter1 minced fowl1 egg1 and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or broth1 and let it boil very gently for #a_/b hour2 then add the butter1 and simmer it till quite dry and soft ,when cold1 make it into balls1 hollow out the inside1 and fill with minced fowl made by recipe ,no4 #ief4 ,the mince should be rather thick4 ,cover over with rice1 dip the balls into egg1 sprinkle them with bread crumbs1 and fry a nice brown4 ,dish them1 and garnish with fried parsley4 ,oysters1 white sauce1 or a little cream1 may be stirred into the rice before it cools4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to boil the rice1 #aj minutes to fry the croquettes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,chip4--,if the birds are allowed to puddle about on wet soil1 or to be much out in the rain1 they will get chip4 ,young chicks are especially liable to this complaint4 ,they will sit shivering in out-of-the-way corners1 perpetually uttering a dolorous chip1 chip2 seemingly frozen with cold1 though1 on handling them1 they are found to be in high fever4 ,a wholesale breeder would take no pains to attempt the cure of fowls so afflicted2 but they who keep chickens for the pleasure1 and not for the profit they yield1 will be inclined to recover them if possible4 ,give them none but warm food1 half a peppercorn rolled in a morsel of dough every night1 and a little nitre in their water4 ,above all1 keep them warm2 a corner in the kitchen fender1 for a day or two1 will do more to effect a cure than the run of a druggist's warehouse4 ,,croquettes ,,of ,,fowl 7an ,entree74 #ied4 ,,ingredients4--#c or #d shalots1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 white sauce2 pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace to taste2 #a_/b teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 the remains of cold roast fowls1 the yolks of #b eggs1 egg1 and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,mince the fowl1 carefully removing all skin and bone1 and fry the shalots in the butter2 add the minced fowl1 dredge in the flour1 put in the pepper1 salt1 mace1 pounded sugar1 and sufficient white sauce to moisten it2 stir to it the yolks of #b well-beaten eggs1 and set it by to cool4 ,then make the mixture up into balls1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and fry a nice brown4 ,they may be served on a border of mashed potatoes1 with gravy or sauce in the centre4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the balls4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,turn4--,what is termed turrling with song-birds1 is known1 as regard fowls1 as the turn4 ,its origin is the same in both cases1--over-feeing and want of exercise4 ,without a moment's warning1 a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its perch1 and unless assistance be at hand1 speedily give up the ghost4 ,the veins of the palate should be opened1 and a few drops of mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one of ammonia1 poured down its throat4 ,i have seen ignorant keepers plunge a bird1 stricken with the turn1 into cold water2 but ,i never saw it taken out again alive2 and for a good reason3 the sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the head1--of aggravating the disease indeed1 instead of relieving it4 ,,hashed ,,fowl--an ,entree 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #iee4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #a pint of water1 #a onion1 #b or three small carrots1 #a blade of pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a small bunch of savoury herbs1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a-a_/b tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut off the best joints from the fowl1 and the remainder make into gravy1 by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of water1 an onion sliced and fried of a nice brown1 the carrots1 mace1 seasoning1 and herbs4 ,let these stew gently for #a-a_/b hour1 strain the liquor1 and thicken with a little flour and butter4 ,lay in the fowl1 thoroughly warm it through1 add the ketchup1 and garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,altogether #a-c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold fowl1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,skin-,,disease ,,in ,,fowls4--,skin-disease is1 nine times out of ten1 caused by the feathers being swarmed by parasites4 ,poor feeding will induce this1 even if cleanliness be observed2 uncleanliness1 however liberal the bill of fare1 will be taken as an invitation by the little biting pests1 and heartily responded to4 ,mix half a teaspoonful of hydro-oxalic acid with twelve teaspoonfuls of water1--apply to the itching parts with an old shaving-brush4 ,,obstruction ,,of ,,the ,,crop4--,obstruction of the crop is occasioned by weakness or greediness4 ,you may know when a bird is so afflicted by his crop being distended almost to bursting4 ,mowbray tells of a hen of his in this predicament2 when the crop was opened1 a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state of vegetation4 ,the crop should be slit from the bottom to the top with a sharp pair of scissors1 the contents taken out1 and the slit sewed up again with line white thread4 ,,minced ,,fowl--an ,entree 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ief4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #b hard-boiled eggs1 salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace1 #a onion1 #a faggot of savoury herbs1 #f tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a oz4 of butter1 two teaspoonfuls of flour1 #a_/b teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,cut out from the fowl all the white meat1 and mince it finely without any skin or bone2 put the bones1 skin1 and trimmings into a stewpan with an onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 a blade of mace1 and nearly a pint of water2 let this stew for an hour1 then strain the liquor4 ,chop the eggs small2 mix them with the fowl2 add salt1 cayenne1 and pounded mace1 put in the gravy and remaining ingredients2 let the whole just boil1 and serve with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,another way to make this is to mince the fowl1 and warm it in white sauce or ,bchamel4 ,when dressed like this1 #c or #d poached eggs may be placed on the top3 oysters1 or chopped mushrooms1 or balls of oyster forcemeat1 may be laid round the dish4 ,,the ,,moulting ,,season4--,during the moulting season beginning properly at the end of ,september1 the fowls will require a little extra attention4 ,keep them dry and warm1 and feed them liberally on warm and satisfying food4 ,if in any fowl the moult should seem protracted1 examine it for broken feather-stumps still beaded in the skin3 if you find any1 extract them carefully with a pair of tweezers4 ,if a fowl is hearty and strong1 six weeks will see him out of his trouble2 if he is weakly1 or should take cold during the time1 he will not thoroughly recover in less than three months4 ,it is seldom or ever that hens will lay during the moult2 while the cock1 during the same period1 will give so little of his consideration to the frivolities of love1 that you may as well1 nay1 much better1 keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers4 ,a moulting chicken makes but a sorry dish4 ,,hashed ,,fowl1 ,indian ,fashion 7an ,entree74 #ieg4--;,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #c or #d sliced onions1 #a apple1 #b oz4 of butter1 pounded mace1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 #a pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the onions into slices1 mince the apple1 and fry these in the butter2 add pounded mace1 pepper1 salt1 curry-powder1 vinegar1 flour1 and sugar in the above proportions2 when the onion is brown1 put it the gravy1 which should be previously made from the bones and trimmings of the fowls1 and stew for #c_/d hour2 add the fowl cut into nice-sized joints1 let it warm through1 and when quite tender1 serve4 ,the dish should be garnished with au edging of boiled rice4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,scour ,,or ,,dysentery4--,the scour1 or dysentery1 or diarrhoea1 is induced variously4 ,a sudden alteration in diet will cause it1 as will a superabundance of green food4 ,the best remedy is a piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale4 ,if the disease has too tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this1 give six drops of syrup of white poppies and six drops of castor-oil1 mixed with a little oatmeal or ground rice4 ,restrict the bird's diet1 for a few days1 to dry food1--crushed beans or oats1 stale bread-crumbs1 c4 ,,fowl ,,scollops 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ieh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled fowl1 #a_/b pint of ,bchamel1 ,no4 #cfg1 or white sauce1 ,no4 #ecg or #eci4 ,mode4--,strip off the skin from the fowl2 cut the meat into thin slices1 and warm them in about #a_/b pint1 or rather more1 of ,bchamel1 or white sauce4 ,when quite hot1 serve1 and garnish the dish with rolled ham or bacon toasted4 ,time4--#a minute to simmer the slices of fowl4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,feather ,,legged ,,bantam4 ,,the ,,feather ,,legged ,,bantam4--,since the introduction of the ,bantam into ,europe1 it has ramified into many varieties1 none of which are destitute of elegance1 and some1 indeed1 remarkable for their beauty4 ,all are1 or ought to be1 of small size1 but lively and vigorous1 exhibiting in their movements both grace and stateliness4 ,the variety shown in the engraving is remarkable for the tarsi1 or beams of the legs1 being plumed to the toes1 with stiff1 long feathers1 which brush the ground4 ,owing1 possibly1 to the little care taken to preserve this variety from admixture1 it is now not frequently seen4 ,another variety is often red1 with a black breast and single dentated comb4 ,the tarsi are smooth1 and of a dusky blue4 ,when this sort of ,bantam is pure1 it yields in courage and spirit to none1 and is1 in fact1 a game-fowl in miniature1 being as beautiful and graceful as it is spirited4 ,a pure white ,bantam1 possessing all the qualifications just named1 is also bred in the royal aviary at ,windsor4 ,,an ,,indian ,,dish ,,of ,,fowl 7an ,entree74 #iei4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #c or #d sliced onions1 #a tablespoonful of curry-powder1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,divide the fowl into joints2 slice and fry the onions in a little butter1 taking care not to burn them2 sprinkle over the fowl a little curry-powder and salt2 fry these nicely1 pile them high in the centre of the dish1 cover with the onion1 and serve with a cut lemon on a plate4 ,care must be taken that the onions are not greasy3 they should be quite dry1 but not burnt4 ,time4--#e minutes to fry the onions1 #aj minutes to fry the fowl4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #d;d4 ,seasonable during the winter month4 ,illustration3 ,,speckled ,,hamburgs4 ,,the ,,speckled ,,hamburg4--,of the speckled1 or spangled ,hamburg which is a favourite breed with many persons1 there are two varieties1--the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled4 ,the general colour of the former is golden1 or orange-yellow1 each feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip1 particularly remarkable on the hackles of the cock and the wing-coverts1 and also on the darker feathers of the breast4 ,the female is yellow1 or orange-brown1 the feathers in like manner being margined with black4 ,the silver-speckled variety is distinguished by the ground-colour of the plumage being of a silver-white1 with perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow1 every leather being margined with a semi-lunar mark of glossy black4 ,both of these varieties are extremely beautiful1 the hens laying freely4 ,first-rate birds command a high price4 ,,fowl ,,saute ,,with ,,peas 7an ,entree74 #ifj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowl1 #b oz4 of butter1 pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace to taste1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of weak stock1 #a pint of green peas1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,cut the fowl into nice pieces2 put the butter into a stew-pan2 sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour1 previously sprinkling it with pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace4 ,dredge in the flour1 shake the ingredients well round1 then add the stock and peas1 and stew till the latter are tender1 which will be in about #bj minutes2 put in the pounded sugar1 and serve1 placing the chicken round1 and the peas in the middle of the dish4 ,when liked1 mushrooms may be substituted for the peas4 ,time4--,altogether #dj minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #g;d4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,august4 ,,boudin ,a ,,la ,,reine 7an ,entree74 7,m4 ,ude's ,recipe47 #ifa4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast fowls1 #a pint of ,bchamel ,no4 #cfg1 salt and cayenne to taste1 egg and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls2 cut it into small dice of an equal size1 and throw them into some good ,bchamel1 made by recipe ,no4 #cfg2 season with salt and cayenne1 and put the mixture into a dish to cool4 ,when this preparation is quite cold1 cut it into #b equal parts1 which should be made into boudins of a long shape1 the size of the dish they are intended to be served on2 roll them in flour1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and be careful that the ends are well covered with the crumbs1 otherwise they would break in the frying-pan2 fry them a nice colour1 put them before the fire to drain the greasy moisture from them1 and serve with the remainder of the ,bchamel poured round3 this should be thinned with a little stock4 ,time4--#aj minutes to fry the boudins4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the fowl1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #a entre4 ,illustration3 ,,sebright ,,bantams4 ,,sir ,,john ,,sebright',s ,,bantams4--,above all ,bantams is placed1 the celebrated and beautiful breed called ,sir ,john ,sebright's ,silver ,bantams4 ,this breed1 which ,sir ,john brought to perfection after years of careful trials1 is very small1 with un-feathered legs1 and a rose comb and short hackles4 ,the plumage is gold or silver1 spangled1 every feather being of a golden orange1 or of a silver white1 with a glossy jet-black margin2 the cocks have the tail folded like that of a hen1 with the sickle feathers shortened straight1 or nearly so1 and broader than usual4 ,the term hen-cocks is1 in consequence1 often applied to them2 but although the sickle feathers are thus modified1 no bird possesses higher courage1 or a more gallant carriage4 ,the attitude of the cock is1 indeed1 singularly proud2 and he is often seen to bear himself so haughtily1 that his head1 thrown back as if in disdain1 nearly touches the two upper feathers--sickles they can scarcely be called--of his tail4 ,half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon1 but birds of the pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense2 indeed1 some time ago1 it was almost impossible to procure either a fowl or an egg4 ,the finest1 says the writer whom we have consulted as to this breed1 we have ever seen1 were in ,sir ,john's poultry-yard1 adjacent to ,turnham-,green ,common1 in the byroad leading to ,acton4 ,,fowl ,a ,,la ,,mayonnaise4 #ifb4 ,,ingredients4--,a cold roast fowl1 ,mayonnaise sauce ,no4 #dfh1 #d or #e young lettuces1 #d hard-boiled eggs1 a few water-cresses1 endive4 ,mode4--,cut the fowl into neat joints1 lay them in a deep dish1 piling them high in the centre1 sauce the fowl with ,mayonnaise made by recipe ,no4 #dfh1 and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves1 water-cresses1 endive1 and hard-boiled eggs3 these may be sliced in rings1 or laid on the dish whole1 cutting off at the bottom a piece of the white1 to make the egg stand4 ,all kinds of cold meat and solid fish may be dressed la ,mayonnaise1 and make excellent luncheon or supper dishes4 ,the sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the moment of serving4 ,should a very large ,mayonnaise be required1 use #b fowls instead of #a1 with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients4 ,average cost1 with one fowl1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized dish4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,black ,,spanish4 ,,black ,,spanish4--,the real ,spanish fowl is recognized by its uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green2 its peculiar white face1 and the large development of its comb and wattle4 ,the hens are excellent layers1 and their eggs are of a very large size4 ,they are1 however1 bad nurses2 consequently1 their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be hatched4 ,in purchasing ,spanish1 says an authority1 blue legs1 the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage1 and a large1 white face1 with a very large high comb1 which should be erect in the cock1 though pendent in the hens1 should be insisted on4 ,the flesh of this fowl is esteemed2 but1 from the smallness of its body when compared with that of the ,dorking1 it is not placed on an equality with it for the table4 ,otherwise1 however1 they are profitable birds1 and their handsome carriage1 and striking contrast of colour in the comb1 face1 and plumage1 are a high recommendation to them as kept fowls4 ,for a town fowl1 they are perhaps better adapted than any other variety4 ,,fowl ,,pillau1 based on ,m4 ,soyer's ,recipe 7an ,indian ,dish74 #ifc4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of rice1 #b oz4 of butter1 a fowl1 #b quarts of stock or good broth1 #dj cardamum-seeds1 #a_/b oz4 of coriander-seed1 #a_/d oz4 of cloves1 #a_/d oz4 of allspice1 #a_/d oz4 of mace1 #a_/d oz4 of cinnamon1 #a_/b oz4 of peppercorns1 #d onions1 #f thin slices of bacon1 #b hard-boiled eggs4 ,mode4--,well wash #a lb4 of the best ,patna rice1 put it into a frying-pan with the butter1 which keep moving over a slow fire until the rice is lightly browned4 ,truss the fowl as for boiling1 put it into a stewpan with the stock or broth2 pound the spices and seeds thoroughly in a mortar1 tie them in a piece of muslin1 and put them in with the fowl4 ,let it boil slowly until it is nearly done2 then add the rice1 which should stew until quite tender and almost dry2 cut the onions into slices1 sprinkle them with flour1 and fry1 without breaking them1 of a nice brown colour4 ,have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled1 and the eggs boiled hard4 ,lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a dish1 smother with the rice1 garnish with the bacon1 fried onions1 and the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters1 and serve very hot4 ,before taking the rice out1 remove the spices4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to stew the fowl without the rice2 #a_/b hour with it4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,sultans4 ,,the ,,serai ,,ta-,,ook1 ,,or ,,fowls ,,of ,,the ,,sultan4--,this fowl is the size of our ,english ,polands1 and is the latest species introduced to ,england4 ,they have a white and flowing plumage1 a full-sized1 compact ,poland tuft on the head1 are muffed1 have a full flowing tail1 short legs well feathered1 and five toes upon each foot4 ,their comb consists merely of two little points1 and their wattles are very small3 their colour is that of a pure white4 ,in ,january1 #ahed1 they arrived in this country from ,constantinople2 and they take their name from sarai1 the ,turkish word for sultan's palace1 and ta-ook1 the ,turkish for fowl4 ,they are thus called the fowls of the sultan1 a name which has the twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by which they have been known in their own country1 and of designating the country whence they come4 ,their habits are described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered1 but not so easily kept in as ,cochin-,chinas4 ,they are excellent layers2 but they are non-sitters and small eaters3 their eggs are large and white4 ,brahmas or ,cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run long before they will1 and1 with scattered food1 they soon satisfy themselves and walk away4 ,,poulet ,,aux ,,cressons4 #ifd4 ,,ingredients4--,a fowl1 a large bunch of water-cresses1 #c tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 #a_/d pint of gravy4 ,mode4--,truss and roast a fowl by recipe ,no4 #ieb1 taking care that it is nicely frothed and brown4 ,wash and dry the water-cresses1 pick them nicely1 and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish4 ,sprinkle over a little salt and the above proportion of vinegar2 place over these the fowl1 and pour over it the gravy4 ,a little gravy should be served in a tureen4 ,when not liked1 the vinegar may be omitted4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #a hour1 according to size4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #bs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,roast ,,fowl1 ,stuffed4 #ife4 ,,ingredients4--,a large fowl1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 a little flour4 ,mode4--,select a large plump fowl1 fill the breast with forcemeat1 made by recipe ,no4 #dag1 truss it firmly1 the same as for a plain roast fowl1 dredge it with flour1 and put it down to a bright fire4 ,roast it for nearly or quite an hour1 should it be very large2 remove the skewers1 and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce4 ,time4--,large fowl1 nearly or quite #a hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #bs4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but scarce in early spring4 ,note4--,sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above3 this is now a very general mode of serving fowl4 ,illustration3 ,,pencilled ,,hamburg4 ,,pencilled ,,hamburg4--,this variety of the ,hamburg fowl is of two colours1 golden and silver1 and is very minutely marked4 ,the hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with several bars of black1 and the hackle in both1 sexes should be perfectly free from dark marks4 ,the cocks do not exhibit the pencillings1 but are white or brown in the golden or silver birds respectively4 ,their form is compact1 and their attitudes graceful and sprightly4 ,the hens do not sit1 but lay extremely well2 hence one of their common names1 that of ,dutch every-day layers4 ,they are also known in different parts of the country1 as ,chitteprats1 ,creoles1 or ,corals1 ,bolton bays and grays1 and1 in some parts of ,yorkshire1 by the wrong name of ,corsican fowls4 ,they are imported in large numbers from ,holland1 but those bred in this country are greatly superior in size4 ,,giblet ,,pie4 #iff4 ,,ingredients4--,a set of duck or goose giblets1 #a lb4 of rump-steak1 #a onion1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole black pepper1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 plain crust4 ,mode4--,clean1 and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion1 whole pepper1 and a bunch of savoury herbs2 add rather more than a pint of water1 and simmer gently for about #a-a_/b hour4 ,take them out1 let them cool1 and cut them into pieces2 line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few pieces of rump-steak2 add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of steak2 season with pepper and salt1 and pour in the gravy 7which should be strained71 that the giblets were stewed in2 cover with a plain crust1 and bake for rather more than #a-a_/b hour in a brisk oven4 ,cover a piece of paper over the pie1 to prevent the crust taking too much colour4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to stew the giblets1 about #a hour to bake the pie4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the giblets1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,the ,,brent ,,goose4--,this is the smallest and most numerous species of the geese which visit the ,british islands4 ,it makes its appearance in winter1 and ranges over the whole of the coasts and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese4 ,mr4 ,selby states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the mainland and ,holy ,island1 on the ,northumbrian coast1 and which are covered by every flow of the tide4 ,this part of the coast appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial1 where they have always received the name of ,ware geese1 no doubt from their continually feeding on marine vegetables4 ,their flesh is very agreeable4 ,,hashed ,,goose4 #ifg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast goose1 #b onions1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a pint of boiling water1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of port wine1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut up the goose into pieces of the size required2 the inferior joints1 trimmings1 c41 put into a stewpan to make the gravy2 slice and fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown2 add these to the trimmings1 and pour over about a pint of boiling water2 stew these gently for #c_/d hour1 then skim and strain the liquor4 ,thicken it with flour1 and flavour with port wine and ketchup1 in the above proportion2 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and put in the pieces of goose2 let these get thoroughly hot through1 but do not allow them to boil1 and serve with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,altogether1 rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold goose1 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,the ,,wild ,,goose4--,this bird is sometimes called the ,gray-lag and is the original of the domestic goose4 ,it is1 according to ,pennant1 the only species which the ,britons could take young1 and familiarize4 ,the ,gray-lag1 says ,mr4 ,gould1 is known to ,persia1 and we believe it is generally dispersed over ,asia ,minor4 ,it is the bird that saved the ,capitol by its vigilance1 and by the ,romans was cherished accordingly4 ,,roast ,,goose4 #ifh4 ,,ingredients4--,goose1 #d large onions1 #aj sage-leaves1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a egg4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,select a goose with a clean white skin1 plump breast1 and yellow feet3 if these latter are red1 the bird is old4 ,should the weather permit1 let it hang for a few days3 by so doing1 the flavour will be very much improved4 ,pluck1 singe1 draw1 and carefully wash and wipe the goose2 cut off the neck close to the back1 leaving the skin long enough to turn over2 cut off the feet at the first joint1 and separate the pinions at the first joint4 ,beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin1 put a skewer through the under part of each wing1 and having drawn up the legs closely1 put a skewer into the middle of each1 and pass the same quite through the body4 ,insert another skewer into the small of the leg1 bring it close down to the side bone1 run it through1 and do the same to the other side4 ,now cut off the end of the vent1 and make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump1 in order to keep in the seasoning4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,goose4 ,mode4--,make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients1 by recipe ,no4 #ejd2 put it into the body of the goose1 and secure it firmly at both ends1 by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin1 and the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back2 by this means the seasoning will not escape4 ,put it down to a brisk fire1 keep it well basted1 and roast from #a-a_/b to #b hours1 according to the size4 ,remove the skewers1 and serve with a tureen of good gravy1 and one of well-made apple-sauce4 ,should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred1 the onions should not be parboiled1 but minced raw3 of the two methods1 the mild seasoning is far superior4 ,a ragot1 or pie1 should be made of the giblets1 or they may be stewed down to make gravy4 ,be careful to serve the goose before the breast falls1 or its appearance will be spoiled by coming flattened to table4 ,as this is rather a troublesome joint to carve1 a large quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose1 but sent in a tureen4 ,time4--,a large goose1 #a-c_/d hour2 a moderate-sized one1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march2 but in perfection from ,michaelmas to ,christmas4 ,average cost1 #es4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #h or #i persons4 ,note4--,a teaspoonful of made mustard1 a saltspoonful of salt1 a few grains of cayenne1 mixed with a glass of port wine1 are sometimes poured into the goose by a slit made in the apron4 ,this sauce is1 by many persons1 considered an improvement4 ,illustration3 ,,emden ,,goose4 ,,the ,,goose4--,this bird is pretty generally distributed over the face of the globe1 being met with in ,north ,america1 ,lapland1 ,iceland1 ,arabia1 and ,persia4 ,its varieties are numerous2 but in ,england there is only one species1 which is supposed to be a native breed4 ,the best geese are found on the borders of ,suffolk1 and in ,norfolk and ,berkshire2 but the largest flocks are reared in the fens of ,lincolnshire and ,cambridge4 ,they thrive best where they have an easy access to water1 and large herds of them are sent every year to ,london1 to be fattened by the metropolitan poulterers4 ,a ,michaelmas goose1 says ,dr4 ,kitchener1 is as famous in the mouths of the million as the minced-pie at ,christmas2 yet for those who eat with delicacy1 it is1 at that time1 too full-grown4 ,the true period when the goose is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its full growth1 and not begun to harden2 if the ,march goose is insipid1 the ,michaelmas goose is rank4 ,the fine time is between both2 from the second week in ,june to the first in ,september4 ,it is said that the ,michaelmas goose is indebted to ,queen ,elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season4 ,her majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an ,english baronet1 when she received the news of the discomfiture of the ,spanish ,armada4 ,in commemoration of this event1 she commanded the goose to make its appearance at table on every ,michaelmas4 ,we here give an engraving of the ,emden goose4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,green ,,goose4 #ifi4 ,,ingredients4--,goose1 #c oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,geese are called green till they are about four months old1 and should not be stuffed4 ,after it has been singed and trussed1 the same as in the preceding recipe1 put into the body a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and the butter to moisten it inside4 ,roast before a clear fire for about #c_/d hour1 froth and brown it nicely1 and serve with a brown gravy1 and1 when liked1 gooseberry-sauce4 ,this dish should be garnished with water-cresses4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,toulouse ,,goose4 ,,the ,,egyptian ,,goose4--,especial attention has been directed to this bird by ,herodotus1 who says it was held sacred by the ancient ,egyptians1 which has been partially confirmed by modern travellers4 ,mr4 ,salt remarks1 ,horus ,apollo says the old geese stay with their young in the most imminent danger1 at the risk of their own lives1 which ,i have myself frequently witnessed4 ,vielpanser is the goose of the ,nile1 and wherever this goose is represented on the walls of the temples in colours1 the resemblance may be clearly traced4 ,the goose is also said to have been a bird under the care of ,isis4 ,it has been placed by ,mr4 ,gould amongst the birds of ,europe2 not from the number of half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in ,britain1 but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the southern parts of the continent from its native country1 ,africa4 ,the ,toulouse goose1 of which we give an engraving1 is a well-known bird4 ,,roast ,,guinea-,,fowl1 ,larded4 #igj4 ,,ingredients4--,a ,guinea-fowl1 lardoons1 flour1 and salt4 ,mode4--,when this bird is larded1 it should be trussed the same as a pheasant2 if plainly roasted1 truss it like a turkey4 ,after larding and trussing it1 put it down to roast at a brisk fire2 keep it well basted1 and a short time before serving1 dredge it with a little flour1 and let it froth nicely4 ,serve with a little gravy in the dish1 and a tureen of the same1 and one of well-made bread-sauce4 ,time4--,guinea-fowl1 larded1 #a-a_/d hour2 plainly roasted1 about #a hour4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,note4--,the breast1 if larded1 should be covered with a piece of paper1 and removed about #aj minutes before serving4 ,illustration3 ,,guinea-,,fowls4 ,,the ,,guinea-,,fowl4--,the bird takes its name from ,guinea1 in ,africa1 where it is found--wild1 and in great abundance4 ,it is gregarious in its habits1 associating in flocks of two or three hundred1 delighting in marshy grounds1 and at night perching upon trees1 or on high situations4 ,its size is about the same as that of a common hen1 but it stands higher on its legs4 ,though domesticated1 it retains much of its wild nature1 and is apt to wander4 ,the hens lay abundantly1 and the eggs are excellent4 ,in their flesh1 however1 they are not so white as the common fowl1 but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant1 for which it frequently makes a good substitute at table4 ,the flesh is both savoury and easy of digestion1 and is in season when game is out of season4 ,,lark ,,pie 7an ,entree74 #iga4 ,,ingredients4--,a few thin slices of beef1 the same of bacon1 #i larks1 flour2 for stuffing1 #a teacupful of bread crumbs1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 #a egg1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a teaspoonful of chopped shalot1 #a_/b pint of weak stock or water1 puff-paste4 ,mode4--,make a stuffing of bread crumbs1 minced lemon-peel1 parsley1 and the yolk of an egg1 all of which should be well mixed together2 roll the larks in flour1 and stuff them4 ,line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few slices of beef and bacon2 over these place the larks1 and season with salt1 pepper1 minced parsley1 and chopped shalot1 in the above proportion4 ,pour in the stock or water1 cover with crust1 and bake for an hour in a moderate oven4 ,during the time the pie is baking1 shake it #b or #c times1 to assist in thickening the gravy1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 a dozen4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,in full season in ,november4 ,,roast ,,larks4 #igb4 ,,ingredients4--,larks1 egg and bread crumbs1 fresh butter4 ,mode4--,these birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy1 and may be either roasted or broiled4 ,pick1 gut1 and clean them2 when they are trussed1 brush them over with the yolk of an egg2 sprinkle with bread crumbs1 and roast them before a quick fire2 baste them continually with fresh butter1 and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the birds are well covered4 ,dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified butter1 and garnish the dish with slices of lemon4 ,broiled larks are also very excellent3 they should be cooked over a clear fire1 and would take about #aj minutes or #a_/d hour4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to roast2 #aj minutes to broil4 ,seasonable4--,in full season in ,november4 ,note4--,larks may also be plainly roasted1 without covering them with egg and bread crumbs2 they should be dished on fried crumbs4 ,,broiled ,,pigeons4 #igc4 ,,ingredients4--,pigeons1 #c oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,take care that the pigeons are quite fresh1 and carefully pluck1 draw1 and wash them2 split the backs1 rub the birds over with butter1 season them with pepper and salt1 and broil them over a moderate fire for #a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,serve very hot1 with either mushroom-sauce or a good gravy4 ,pigeons may also be plainly boiled1 and served with parsley and butter2 they should be trussed like boiled fowls1 and take from #a_/d hour to #bj minutes to boil4 ,time4--,to broil a pigeon1 from #a_/d hour to #bj minutes2 to boil one1 the same time4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #i;d4 each4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,september1 but in the greatest perfection from midsummer to ,michaelmas4 ,,the ,,pouter ,,pigeon4--,this is a very favourite pigeon1 and1 without doubt1 the most curious of his species4 ,he is a tail strong bird1 as he had need be to carry about his great inflated crop1 frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized turnip4 ,a perfect pouter1 seen on a windy day1 is certainly a ludicrous sight3 his feathered legs have the appearance of white trousers2 his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat2 his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy protuberance2 and1 altogether1 he reminds you of a little swell of a past century1 staggering under a bale of linen4 ,the most common pouters are the blues1 buffs1 and whites1 or an intermixture of all these various colours4 ,the pouter is not a prolific breeder1 is a bad nurse1 and more likely to degenerate1 if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with ,irish stock1 than any other pigeon3 nevertheless1 it is a useful bird to keep if you are founding a new colony1 as it is much attached to its home1 and little apt to stray2 consequently it is calculated to induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves comfortable4 ,if you wish to breed pouters1 you cannot do worse than intrust them with the care of their own eggs4 ,,roast ,,pigeons4 #igd4 ,,ingredients4--,pigeons1 #c oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,trussing4--,pigeons1 to be good1 should be eaten fresh 7if kept a little1 the flavour goes off71 and they should be drawn as soon as killed4 ,cut off the heads and necks1 truss the wings over the backs1 and cut off the toes at the first joint3 previous to trussing1 they should be carefully cleaned1 as no bird requires so much washing4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,pigeon4 ,mode4--,wipe the birds very dry1 season them inside with pepper and salt1 and put about #c_/d oz4 of butter into the body of each3 this makes them moist4 ,put them down to a bright fire1 and baste them well the whole of the time they are cooking 7they will be done enough in from #bj to #cj minutes72 garnish with fried parsley1 and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter4 ,bread-sauce and gravy1 the same as for roast fowl1 are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons1 as also egg-sauce4 ,time4--,from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #i;d4 each4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,september2 but in the greatest perfection from ,midsummer to ,michaelmas4 ,,the ,,pigeon--,the pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the passerine birds and poultry4 ,they are widely distributed over the world1 some of the species being found even in the arctic regions4 ,their chief food is grain1 and they drink much2 not at intervals1 like other birds1 but by a continuous draught1 like quadrupeds4 ,the wild pigeon1 or stockdove1 is the parent whence all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived4 ,in the wild state it is still found in many parts of this island1 making its nest in the holes of rocks1 in the hollows of trees1 or in old towers1 but never1 like the ringdove1 on branches4 ,the blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the table in this country1 and is produced from our farmyards in great numbers4 ,when young1 and still fed by their parents1 they are most preferable for the table1 and are called squabs2 under six months they are denominated squeakers1 and at six months they begin to breed4 ,their flesh is accounted savoury1 delicate1 and stimulating1 and the dark-coloured birds are considered to have the highest flavour1 whilst the light are esteemed to have the more delicate flesh4 ,,the ,,pigeon-,,house1 ,,or ,,dovecot4--,the first thing to be done towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for their reception2 and the next is1 to provide the pigeons themselves4 ,the situation or size of the dovecot will necessarily depend on convenience2 but there is one point which must invariably be observed1 and that is1 that every pair of pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in4 ,this is indispensable1 as1 without it1 there will be no security1 but the constant prospect of confusion1 breaking of eggs1 and the destruction of young4 ,the proper place for the pigeon-house is the poultry-yard2 but it does very well near dwellings1 stables1 brewhouses1 bakehouses1 or such offices4 ,some persons keep pigeons in rooms1 and have them making their nests on the floor4 ,the object is to escape the danger of the young falling out2 but in such cases1 there is a great risk of rats or other vermin getting at the pigeons4 ,,aspect ,,of ,,the ,,pigeon-,,house4--,the front of the pigeon-house should have a southwest aspect1 and1 if a room be selected for the purpose1 it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the building for the passage of the pigeons1 but which can be closed at convenience4 ,a platform ought to be laid at the entrance for the pigeons to perch upon1 with some kind of defence against strange cats1 which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot4 ,yet1 although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds1 they are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice1 which will not only suck the eggs1 but destroy the birds4 ,the platform should be painted white1 and renewed as the paint wears off1 white being a favourite colour with pigeons1 and also most conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house4 ,the boxes ought also to be similarly painted1 and renewed when necessary1 for which purpose lime and water will do very well4 ,,the ,,necessity ,,of ,,cleanliness4--,as cleanliness in human habitations is of the first importance1 so is it in the pigeon-house4 ,there the want of it will soon render the place a nuisance not to be approached1 and the birds1 both young and old1 will be so covered with vermin and filth1 that they will neither enjoy health nor comforts1 whilst early mortality amongst them will be almost certain4 ,in some cases1 the pigeon-house is cleaned daily2 but it should always be done1 at any rate1 once a week1 and the floor covered with sifted gravel1 frequently renewed4 ,pigeons being exceedingly fond of water1 and having a prescience of the coming of rain1 they may be seen upon the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening1 and then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the refreshing shower4 ,when they are confined in a room1 therefore1 they should be allowed a wide pan of water1 to be often renewed4 ,this serves them for a bath1 which cools1 refreshes1 and assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin4 ,,breeding ,,pigeons4--,in breeding pigeons1 it is necessary to match a cock and hen1 and shut them up together1 or place them near to each other1 and in the course of a day or two there is little doubt of their mating4 ,various rules have been laid down for the purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen pigeon2 but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is generally so remarkable1 that he is easily ascertained4 ,the pigeon being monogamous1 the male attaches and confines himself to one female1 and the attachment is reciprocal1 and the fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial4 ,at the age of six months1 young pigeons are termed squeakers1 and then begin to breed1 when properly managed4 ,their courtship1 and the well-known tone of voice in the cock1 just then acquired and commencing1 are indications of their approaching union4 ,nestlings1 while fed by cock and hen1 are termed squabs1 and are1 at that age1 sold and used for the table4 ,the dove-house pigeon is said to breed monthly1 when well supplied with food4 ,at all events1 it may be depended on1 that pigeons of almost any healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine times in the year2 whence it may readily be conceived how vast are the numbers that may be raised4 ,illustration3 ,,carrier ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,carrier ,,pigeon4--,without doubt the carrier is entitled to rank first in the pigeon family1 with the exception1 perhaps1 of the blue-rock pigeons4 ,no domestic fowl can be traced to so remote an antiquity4 ,when ,greece was in its glory1 carrier pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the victors at the ,olympian games4 ,during the holy war1 when ,acre was besieged by ,king ,richard1 ,saladin habitually corresponded with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons4 ,a shaft from an ,english crossbow1 however1 happened to bring one of those feathered messengers to the ground1 and the stratagem was discovered1 the design of the ,saracens revealed1 and so turned against the designers1 that ,acre was in the hands of the ,christians before the wily ,saladin dreamt of such a thing4 ,,pigeon ,,pie 7,epsom ,grand-,stand ,recipe74 #ige4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of rump-steak1 #b or #c pigeons1 #c slices of ham1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 #d eggs1 puff crust4 ,mode4--,cut the steak into pieces about #c inches square1 and with it line the bottom of a pie-dish1 seasoning it well with pepper and salt4 ,clean the pigeons1 rub them with pepper and salt inside and out1 and put into the body of each rather more than #a_/b oz4 of butter2 lay them on the steak1 and a piece of ham on each pigeon4 ,add the yolks of #d eggs1 and half fill the dish with stock2 place a border of puff paste round the edge of the dish1 put on the cover1 and ornament it in any way that may be preferred4 ,clean three of the feet1 and place them in a hole made in the crust at the top3 this shows what kind of pie it is4 ,glaze the crust1--that is to say1 brush it over with the yolk of an egg1--and bake it in a well-heated oven for about #a-a_/d hour4 ,when liked1 a seasoning of pounded mace may be added4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour1 or rather less4 ,average cost1 #es4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,tumbler ,,pigeons4 ,,tumbler ,,pigeons4--,the smaller the size of this variety1 the greater its value4 ,the head should be round and smooth1 the neck thin1 and the tail similar to that of the turbit4 ,highly-bred birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight beyond that of any other pigeons2 and it is in seeing these little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the fanciers take such delight4 ,for four or five hours tumblers have been known to keep on the wing2 and it is when they are almost lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those pantomimic feats which give them their name1 and which are marked by a tumbling over-and-over process1 which suggests the idea of their having suddenly become giddy1 been deprived of their self-control1 or overtaken by some calamity4 ,this acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some to the absence of a proper power in the tail2 but is nothing more than a natural habit1 for which no adequate reason can be assigned4 ,of this variety1 the ,almond ,tumbler is the most beautiful2 and the greater the variation of the colour in the flight and tail1 the greater their value4 ,illustration3 ,,runt ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,runt ,,pigeon4--,this is generally esteemed among the largest of the pigeon varieties1 and being possessed of proportionate strength1 with a strong propensity to exercise it1 they keep the dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering over the weaker inmates4 ,they breed tolerably well1 however1 and are valuable for the table4 ,there is both the ,leghorn and the ,spanish ,runt1 variously plumaged2 but when red1 white1 or black mottled1 are most highly esteemed4 ,one of the great advantages connected with the ,runt is1 that he is not likely to fly away from home4 ,being heavy birds1 they find it difficult1 when well fed1 to mount even to a low housetop4 ,again1 they require no loft1 or special dwelling-place1 but1 if properly tended1 will be perfectly satisfied1 and thrive as well1 in a rabbit-hutch as any where4 ,their flavour is very good2 and it is not an uncommon thing for a squeaker ,runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in weight4 ,illustration3 ,,nun ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,nun ,,pigeon4--,the ,tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this variety1 which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising from the back of the head1 and which1 on the whole1 is an extremely pretty little bird4 ,according to the colour of the head1 it is called the red1 black1 or yellow-headed ,nun4 ,to be a perfect bird1 it should have a small head and beak2 and the larger the tuft at the back of his head1 the handsomer the bird is esteemed1 and proportionately valuable in the eyes of pigeon-fanciers4 ,illustration3 ,,trumpeter ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,trumpeter ,,pigeon4--,from the circumstance of this bird imitating the sound of a trumpet1 instead of cooing1 like other pigeons1 it has received its designation4 ,it is of the middle size1 having its legs and feet covered with feathers1 and its plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white4 ,it has a tuft springing from the root of its beak1 and the larger this topknot is1 the higher the estimation in which the breed is held4 ,in their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others2 and whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of themselves1 we cannot say2 but they are rather select in the choice of their company4 ,if two of them are put in a pigeon-house with other doves1 it will be found that they confine their association almost entirely to each other4 ,as much as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of this kind4 ,illustration3 ,,wood-,,pigeon4 ,,the ,,wood1 ,,or ,,wild ,,pigeon4--,buffon enumerates upwards of thirty varieties of the pigeon1 which he derives from one root1--viz4 the stockdove1 or common wild pigeon4 ,all the varieties of colour and form which we witness1 he attributes to human contrivance and fancy4 ,nevertheless1 there exist essentially specific differences in these birds1 which would appear to be attributable rather to the nature of the region1 soil1 and climate to which they are indigenous1 than to the art and ingenuity of man4 ,the stockdove1 in its wild state1 is still found in some parts of ,britain1 forming its nest in the holes of rocks1 old towers1 and in the hollows of trees2 it never1 however1 like the ringdove1 nestles in the branches4 ,multitudes of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter1 coming from their more northerly retreats1 making their appearance about ,november1 and retiring again in the spring4 ,when forests of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country1 these birds used to haunt them in myriads1 frequently covering a mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to feed4 ,,stewed ,,pigeons4 #igf4 ,,ingredients4--#f pigeons1 a few slices of bacon1 #c oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 sufficient stock ,no4 #ajd to cover the pigeons1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of port wine4 ,mode4--,empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly1 mince the livers1 add to these the parsley and butter1 and put it into the insides of the birds4 ,truss them with the legs inward1 and put them into a stewpan1 with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them2 add the stock1 and stew gently for rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,dish the pigeons1 strain the gravy1 thicken it with butter and flour1 add the ketchup and port wine1 give one boil1 pour over the pigeons1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,april to ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,fantail ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,fantail ,,pigeon4--,this curious variety is inferior in point of size to most of the other varieties1 and is characterized by having a short1 slender bill1 pendent wings1 and naked legs and feet4 ,it has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a turkey-cock2 during which action1 especially when paying court to it's mate1 it trembles or shakes1 like the peacock when moving about with his train expanded and in full display4 ,this power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the male bird alone3 the female possesses the same power to an equal extent1 and otherwise resembles the male in every respect4 ,it is not very prolific1 and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or pigeon-house as most of the other kinds4 ,illustration3 ,,jacobin ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,jacobin ,,pigeon4--,this variety1 having the power to transmit to posterity a form precisely similar1 with all its peculiar characters undiminished1 is1 among pigeon-fanciers1 designated as of a pure or permanent race4 ,it is distinguished by a remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers1 which1 commencing behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast1 forms a kind of hood1 not unlike that worn by a monk4 ,from this circumstance1 it has obtained its ,gallic name of nonnain capuchin4 ,in size it is one of the smallest of the domestic pigeons1 and its form is light and elegant4 ,it is a very productive species1 and1 having its flight considerably impeded by the size and form of its hooded frill1 keeps much at home1 and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where pigeons are confined4 ,illustration3 ,,turbit ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,turbit ,,pigeon4--,this variety bears a strong resemblance to the ,jacobin1 having a kind of frill in the fore part of its neck1 occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and standing straight out4 ,the species is classed in accordance with the colour of the shoulders1 similarly as the ,nuns are by the colour of their heads4 ,their characteristics of excellence are a full frill1 short bill1 and small round head4 ,in ,germany it is called the ruffle pigeon1 in allusion to the feathers on its breast2 and it has rarely any feathers on its feet4 ,there is a peculiarity connected with this bird1 which somewhat lowers it in the estimation of fanciers3 it seldom rears more than one at a time1 which1 therefore1 marks it as a bird rather for amusement than profit4 ,illustration3 ,,barb ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,barb ,,pigeon4--,the name of this variety is a contraction of ,barbary1 from which country it originally comes4 ,it is both prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse4 ,the kind most esteemed is that of one uniform colour1 that of blue-black being preferable to any other4 ,speckled or mottled ,barbs are esteemed the most common of all pigeons4 ,it is not unlike the ,carrier pigeon1 and1 at a small distance1 might easily be mistaken for the latter4 ,it has a short beak and a small wattle4 ,a spongy1 pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic1 however1 and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years old4 ,this peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young birds4 ,illustration3 ,,blue ,,rock-,,pigeon4 ,,the ,,rock ,,pigeon4--,this variety1 in its wild state1 is found upon the rocky parts of the west of ,scotland1 and the bold shores of the ,western ,isles1 more abundant than in any other parts of the ,british islands4 ,as the shores of the mainland are exposed to the muds of the ,atlantic1 and the comparatively small islands are surrounded by that ocean1 the low grounds exposed to the west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time1 and thus the birds easily find a supply of food4 ,the numbers which there congregate are often very great1 and the din of their united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming4 ,the love of home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in the rock-pigeon or biset1 as it is called by the ,french4 ,flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the feeding-grounds2 but when the time of returning to rest comes round1 each one keeps to its own party4 ,illustration3 ,,owl ,,pigeons4 ,,the ,,owl ,,pigeon4--,this pigeon does not seem to be so well known as it formerly was1 if we may judge from the fact that few modern writers mention it4 ,like the ,turbit pigeon1 the ,owl has a remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast1 it having been compared by some to the frill of a shirt1 and by others to a full-blown white rose4 ,in size1 it is not quite so large a pigeon as the ,jacobin4 ,it is said to be preferred in ,france1 above other varieties1 as a bird to rear and kill for the table4 ,in ,england it is very far from being common2 indeed1 we have applied to several keepers of pigeons1 who have fancied themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird1 and they have been able to tell us nothing of it4 ,mr4 ,harrison ,weir1 our artist1 however1 has made his portrait from the life4 ,,boiled ,,rabbit4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,rabbit4 #igg4 ,,ingredients4--,rabbit2 water4 ,mode4--,for boiling1 choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws1 as that denotes they are young3 should these be blunt and rugged1 the ears dry and tough1 the animal is old4 ,after emptying and skinning it1 wash it well in cold water1 and let it soak for about #a_/d hour in warm water1 to draw out the blood4 ,bring the head round to the side1 and fasten it there by means of a skewer run through that and the body4 ,put the rabbit into sufficient hot water to cover it1 let it boil very gently until tender1 which will be in from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 according to its size and age4 ,dish it1 and smother it either with onion1 mushroom1 or liver sauce1 or parsley-and-butter2 the former is1 however1 generally preferred to any of the last-named sauces4 ,when liver-sauce is preferred1 the liver should be boiled for a few minutes1 and minced very finely1 or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce4 ,time4--,a very young rabbit1 #a_/b hour2 a large one1 #c_/d hour2 an old one1 #a hour or longer4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,the ,,rabbit4--,though this animal is an inhabitant of most temperate climates1 it does not reach so far north as the hare4 ,the wild rabbit is a native of ,great ,britain1 and is found in large numbers in the sandy districts of ,norfolk and ,cambridgeshire4 ,its flesh is1 by some1 considered to have a higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit1 although it is neither so white nor so delicate4 ,the animal1 however1 becomes larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state2 but it is not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made4 ,,curried ,,rabbit4 #igh4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c onions1 #a pint of stock ,no4 #ajd1 #a tablespoonful of curry powder1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a teaspoonful of mushroom powder1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/b lb4 of rice4 ,mode4--,empty1 skin1 and wash the rabbit thoroughly1 and cut it neatly into joints4 ,put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions1 and let them acquire a nice brown colour1 but do not allow them to blacken4 ,pour in the stock1 which should be boiling2 mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with a little water1 add it to the stock1 with the mushroom powder1 and simmer gently for rather more than #a_/b hour2 squeeze in the lemon-juice1 and serve in the centre of a dish1 with an edging of boiled rice all round4 ,where economy is studied1 water may be substituted for the stock2 in this case1 the meat and onions must be very nicely browned4 ,a little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewed with the curry will be found a great improvement4 ,time4--,altogether #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,illustration3 ,,wild ,,rabbits4 ,,the ,,common ,,or ,,wild ,,rabbit4--,warrens1 or inclosures1 are frequently made in favourable localities1 and some of them are so large as to comprise #b1jjj acres4 ,the common wild rabbit is of a grey colour1 and is esteemed the best for the purposes of food4 ,its skin is valuable as an article of commerce1 being used for the making of hats4 ,another variety of the rabbit1 however1 called the silver-grey1 has been lately introduced to this country1 and is still more valuable4 ,its colour is a black ground1 thickly interspersed with grey hairs2 and its powers as a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be enormous1 especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity of a rabbit-warren4 ,,fried ,,rabbit4 #igi4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 flour1 dripping1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of minced shalot1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut the rabbit into neat joints1 and flour them well2 make the dripping boiling in a fryingpan1 put in the rabbit1 and fry it a nice brown4 ,have ready a very hot dish1 put in the butter1 shalot1 and ketchup2 arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this1 and serve as quickly as possible4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,note4--,the rabbit may be brushed over with egg1 and sprinkled with bread crumbs1 and fried as above4 ,when cooked in this manner1 make a gravy in the pan by recipe ,no4 #hff1 and pour it round1 but not over1 the pieces of rabbit4 ,,varieties ,,in ,,rabbits4--,almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a furry animal1 that lives on plants1 and burrows in the ground2 that it has its varieties as well as other animals1 and that it is frequently an especial favourite with boys4 ,among its varieties1 the short-legged1 with width and substance of loin1 is the most hardy1 and fattens the most expeditiously4 ,it has1 besides1 the soundest liver1 rabbits generally being subject to defects of that part4 ,it is also the smallest variety4 ,there is a very large species of the hare-colour1 having much bone1 length and depth of carcase1 large and long ears1 with full eyes1 resembling those of the hare3 it might readily be taken for a hybrid or mule1 but for the objection to its breeding4 ,its flesh is high-coloured1 substantial1 and more savoury than that of the common rabbit2 and1 cooked like the hare1 it makes a good dish4 ,the large white1 and yellow and white species1 have whiter and more delicate flesh1 and1 cooked in the same way1 will rival the turkey4 ,rabbits are divided into four kinds1 distinguished as warreners1 parkers1 hedgehogs1 and sweethearts4 ,the warrener1 as his name implies1 is a member of a subterranean community1 and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell upon the earth and have the world at their will1 and his fur is the most esteemed4 ,after him1 comes the parker1 whose favourite resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground1 where he usually breeds in great numbers1 and from which he frequently drives away the hares4 ,the hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit1 that1 tinker like1 roams about the country1 and would have a much better coat on his back if he was more settled in his habits1 and remained more at home4 ,the sweetheart is a tame rabbit1 with its fur so sleek1 soft1 and silky1 that it is also used to some extent in the important branch of hat-making4 ,,rabbit ,a ,,la ,,minute4 #ihj4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #c dried mushrooms1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced parsley1 #b teaspoonfuls of flour1 #b glasses of sherry1 #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,empty1 skin1 and wash the rabbit thoroughly1 and cut it into joints4 ,put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit2 add salt1 pepper1 and pounded mace1 and let it cook until three parts done2 then put in the remaining ingredients1 and boil for about #aj minutes3 it will then be ready to serve4 ,fowls or hare may be dressed in the same manner4 ,time4--,altogether1 #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,rabbit ,,pie4 #iha4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 a few slices of ham1 salt and white pepper to taste1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 a few forcemeat balls1 #c hard-boiled eggs1 #a_/b pint of gravy1 puff crust4 ,mode4--,cut up the rabbit 7which should be young71 remove the breastbone1 and bone the legs4 ,put the rabbit1 slices of ham1 forcemeat balls1 and hard eggs1 by turns1 in layers1 and season each layer with pepper1 salt1 pounded mace1 and grated nutmeg4 ,pour in about #a_/b pint of water1 cover with crust1 and bake in a well-heated oven for about #a-a_/b hour4 ,should the crust acquire too much colour1 place a piece of paper over it to prevent its burning4 ,when done1 pour in at the top1 by means of the hole in the middle of the crust1 a little good gravy1 which may be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and #b or #c shank-bones1 flavoured with onion1 herbs1 and spices4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,note4--,the liver of the rabbit may be boiled1 minced1 and mixed with the forcemeat balls1 when the flavour is liked4 ,,fecundity ,,of ,,the ,,rabbit4--,the fruitfulness of this animal has been the subject of wonder to all naturalists4 ,it breeds seven times in the year1 and generally begets seven or eight young ones at a time4 ,if we suppose this to happen regularly for a period of four years1 the progeny that would spring from a single pair would amount to more than a million4 ,as the rabbit1 however1 has many enemies1 it can never be permitted to increase in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind2 for it not only furnishes man with an article of food1 but is1 by carnivorous animals of every description1 mercilessly sacrificed4 ,notwithstanding this1 however1 in the time of the ,roman power1 they once infested the ,balearic islands to such an extent1 that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force from ,augustus to exterminate them4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,rabbit ,,or ,,hare4 #ihb4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 #c teaspoonfuls of flour1 #c sliced onions1 #b oz4 of butter1 a few thin slices of bacon1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b slices of lemon1 #a bay-leaf1 #a glass of port wine4 ,mode4--,slice the onions1 and put them into a stewpan with the flour and butter2 place the pan near the fire1 stir well as the butter melts1 till the onions become a rich brown colour1 and add1 by degrees1 a little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream4 ,cut some thin slices of bacon2 lay in these with the rabbit1 cut into neat joints2 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 the lemon and bay-leaf1 and let the whole simmer until tender4 ,pour in the port wine1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to simmer the rabbit4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,the ,,rabbit-,,house4--,rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a few individuals in almost every town1 and by a few in almost every part of the country4 ,forty years ago1 there were in the metropolis one or two considerable feeders1 who1 according to report1 kept from #a1fjj to #b1jjj breeding does4 ,these large establishments1 however1 have ceased to exist1 and ,london receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from the country4 ,where they are kept1 however1 the rabbit-house should be placed upon a dry foundation1 and be well ventilated4 ,exposure to rain1 whether externally or internally1 is fatal to rabbits1 which1 like sheep1 are liable to the rot1 springing from the same causes4 ,thorough ventilation and good air are indispensable where many rabbits are kept1 or they will neither prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time4 ,a thorough draught or passage for the air is1 therefore1 absolutely necessary1 and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or windows4 ,,roast ,,or ,,baked ,,rabbit4 #ihc4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 buttered paper1 sausage-meat4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,rabbit4 ,mode4--,empty1 skin1 and thoroughly wash the rabbit2 wipe it dry1 line the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dag1 and to which has been added the minced liver4 ,sew the stuffing inside1 skewer back the head between the shoulders1 cut off the fore-joints of the shoulders and legs1 bring3 them close to the body1 and secure them by means of a skewer4 ,wrap the rabbit in buttered paper1 and put it down to a bright clear fire2 keep it well basted1 and a few minutes before it is done remove the paper1 flour and froth it1 and let it acquire a nice brown colour4 ,take out the skewers1 and serve with brown gravy and red-currant jelly4 ,to bake the rabbit1 proceed in the same manner as above2 in a good oven1 it will take about the same time as roasting4 ,time4--,a young rabbit1 #ce minutes2 a large one1 about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,the ,,hutch4--,hutches are generally placed one above another to the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of the room4 ,where a large stock is kept1 to make the most of room1 the hutches may be placed in rows1 with a sufficient interval between for feeding and cleaning1 instead of being1 in the usual way1 joined to the wall4 ,it is preferable to rest the hutches upon stands1 about a foot above the ground1 for the convenience of cleaning under them4 ,each of the hutches intended for breeding should have two rooms1--a feeding and a bed-room4 ,those are single for the use of the weaned rabbits1 or for the bucks1 which are always kept separate4 ,the floors should be planed smooth1 that wet may run off1 and a common hoe1 with a short handle1 and a short broom1 are most convenient implements for cleaning these houses4 ,,stewed ,,rabbit4 #ihd4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 #b large onions1 #f cloves1 #a small teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel1 a few forcemeat balls1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut the rabbit into small joints2 put them into a stewpan1 add the onions sliced1 the cloves1 and minced lemon-peel4 ,pour in sufficient water to cover the meat1 and1 when the rabbit is nearly done1 drop in a few forcemeat balls1 to which has been added the liver1 finely chopped4 ,thicken the gravy with flour and butter1 put in the ketchup1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,lop-,,eared ,,rabbit4 ,,fancy ,,rabbits4--,the graceful fall of the ears is the first thing that is looked to by the fancier2 next1 the dewlap1 if the animal is in its prime2 then the colours and marked points1 and1 lastly1 the shape and general appearance4 ,the ears of a fine rabbit should extend not less than seven inches1 measured from tip to tip in a line across the skull2 but even should they exceed this length1 they are admitted with reluctance into a fancy stock1 unless they have a uniform and graceful droop4 ,the dewlap1 which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat1 is only seen in fancy rabbits1 after they have attained their full growth3 it commences immediately under the jaw1 and adds greatly to the beauty of their appearance4 ,it goes down the throat and between the fore legs1 and is so broad that it projects beyond the chin4 ,the difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back1 independent of the ears1 is sufficient to strike the common observer4 ,fancy rabbits fetch a very high price2 so much as five and ten guineas1 and even more1 is sometimes given for a first-rate doe4 ,if young ones are first procured from a good family1 the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for a much smaller sum4 ,sometimes the ears1 instead of drooping down1 slope backwards3 a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a fancy lot1 and is not considered worth more than the common variety4 ,the next position is when one ear lops outwards1 and the other stands erect3 rabbits of this kind possess but little value1 however fine the shape and beautiful the colour1 although they sometimes breed as good specimens as finer ones4 ,the forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the half-lop3 the ears1 in this case1 slope forward and down over the forehead4 ,rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in other respects1 with the exception of the droop of the ears1 and often become the parents of perfect young ones3 does of this kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect4 ,in the ear-lop1 the ears spread out in an horizontal position1 like the wings of a bird in flight1 or the arms of a man swimming4 ,a great many excellent does have this characteristic1 and some of the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so4 ,sometimes a rabbit drops one ear completely1 but raises the other so neatly horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop3 this is superior to all others1 except the perfect fall1 which is so rarely to be met with1 that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered as valuable rabbits1 if well bred and with other good qualities4 ,the real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek1 slanting somewhat outward in their descent1 with the open part of the ear inward1 and sometimes either backwards or forwards instead of perpendicular3 when the animals stand in an easy position1 the tips of the ears touch the ground4 ,the hollows of the ears1 in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind1 should be turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them should remain in front3 they should match exactly in their descent1 and should slant outwards as little as possible4 ,the same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare1 that a breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect does would consider himself lucky if1 in the course of a year1 he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all4 ,as regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder says3-- ,the fur of fancy rabbits may be blue1 or rather lead-colour1 and white1 or black and white1 or tawny and white1 that is1 tortoiseshell-coloured4 ,but it is not of so much importance what colours the coat of a rabbit displays1 as it is that those colours shall be arranged in a particular manner1 forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects4 ,hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by distinctive designations4 ,what is termed 'the blue butterfly smut' was1 for some time1 considered the most valuable of fancy rabbits4 ,it is thus named on account of having bluish or lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose1 having some resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly1 what may be termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white4 ,a black and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar manner1 constituting a 'black butterfly smut4' ,but ,a good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks1 without which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind4 ,there should be a black or blue patch on its back1 called the saddle2 the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout2 while the legs should be all white2 and there ought to be dark stripes on both sides of the body in front1 passing backwards to meet the saddle1 and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the part called the withers in a horse4 ,these stripes form what is termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or collar hanging round the neck4 ,among thorough-bred fancy rabbits1 perhaps not one in a hundred will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on the coat2 but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a rabbit approach to the pattern described1 the greater will be its value1 so far1 at least1 as relates to colour4 ,the beauty and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit1 however1 depends a good deal on its shape1 or what is styled its carriage4 ,a rabbit is said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched1 rising full two inches above the top of its head1 which must be held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to reach almost to the ground4 ,,stewed ,,rabbit1 ,larded4 #ihe4 ,,ingredients4--#a rabbit1 a few strips of bacon1 rather more than #a pint of good broth or stock1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 salt and pepper to taste1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a glass of sherry4 ,mode4--,well wash the rabbit1 cut it into quarters1 lard them with ,blips of bacon1 and fry them2 then put them into a stewpan with the broth1 herbs1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 simmer gently until the rabbit is tender1 then strain the gravy1 thicken it with butter and flour1 add the sherry1 give one boil1 pour it over the rabbit1 and serve4 ,garnish with slices of cut lemon4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,hare-,,rabbit4 ,,the ,,hare-,,rabbit4--,there has been lately introduced to ,french tables an animal called the ,hare-rabbit1 partaking of the nature1 characteristics1 and qualifications of both the hare and the rabbit4 ,it is highly spoken of1 both as regards flesh and flavour2 and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to perpetuate its race4 ,we hope that some enterprising individual will soon secure for ,english1 tables what would seem to be a really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes2 although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its proper position1 as within or without the meaning of game1 as by law established4 ,only a few specimens have been seen in ,england at present1 but there is no reason to doubt that our rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion1 and cope successfully with our neighbours across the ,channel in introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen4 ,illustration3 ,,angora ,,rabbit4 ,,the ,,angora ,,rabbit4--,this is one of the handsomest of all rabbits4 ,it takes its name from being an inhabitant of ,angora1 a city and district of ,asia ,minor4 ,like the well-known ,angora goat and cat1 both of which are valuable on account of the fineness of their wool and fur1 this rabbit is prized for its long1 waved1 silky fur1 which1 as an article of commerce is highly esteemed4 ,we are not aware whether it is eaten by the inhabitants1 and but few specimens have been introduced into ,england1 where1 doubtless1 the beauty of its coat would materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character of the climate4 ,to the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous district of ,angora the words of the wise man would seem most to apply1 ,the conies are but feeble folk1 yet make they their houses in the rocks4 ,illustration3 ,,himalaya ,,rabbits4 ,,the ,,himalaya ,,rabbit4--,amidst the mighty ,himalaya mountains1 whose peaks are the highest on the globe1 the pretty rabbit here portrayed is found2 and his colour seems to be like the snow1 which1 above the altitude of from #ac1jjj to #af1jjj feet1 perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world4 ,it is1 at present1 a very rare animal in ,england1 but will1 doubtless1 be more extensively known in the course of a few years4 ,from the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal1 ,martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification1 mining1 and covered roads4 ,,boiled ,,turkey4 #ihf4 ,,ingredients4--,turkey2 forcemeat ,no4 #dag4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,hen turkeys are preferable for boiling1 on account of their whiteness and tenderness1 and one of moderate size should be selected1 as a large one is not suitable for this mode of cooking4 ,they should not be dressed until they have been killed #c or #d days1 as they will neither look white1 nor will they be tender4 ,pluck the bird1 carefully draw1 and singe it with a piece of white paper1 wash it inside and out1 and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth4 ,cut off the head and neck1 draw the strings or sinews of the thighs1 and cut off the legs at the first joint2 draw the legs into the body1 fill the breast with forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dag2 run a skewer through the wing and the middle joint of the leg1 quite into the leg and wing on the opposite side2 break the breastbone1 and make the bird look as round and as compact as possible4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,turkey4 ,mode4--,put the turkey into sufficient hot water to cover it2 let it come to a boil1 then carefully remove all the scum3 if this is attended to1 there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth2 but it should be well covered with the water4 ,let it simmer very gently for about #a-a_/b hour to #a-c_/d hour1 according to the size1 and serve with either white1 celery1 oyster1 or mushroom sauce1 or parsley-and-butter1 a little of which should be poured over the turkey4 ,boiled ham1 bacon1 tongue1 or pickled pork1 should always accompany this dish2 and when oyster sauce is served1 the turkey should be stuffed with oyster forcemeat4 ,time4--,a small turkey1 #a-a_/b hour2 a large one1 #a-c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #es4 #f;d4 to #gs4 #f;d4 each1 but more expensive at ,christmas1 on account of the great demand4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,december to ,february4 ,,the ,,turkey4--,the turkey1 for which fine bird we are indebted to ,america1 is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by the ,new ,world to the ,old4 ,some1 indeed1 assert that this bird was known to the ancients1 and that it was served at the wedding-feast of ,charlemagne4 ,this opinion1 however1 has been controverted by first-rate authorities1 who declare that the ,french name of the bird1 dindon1 proves its origin2 that the form of the bird is altogether foreign1 and that it is found in ,america alone in a wild state4 ,there is but little doubt1 from the information which has been gained at considerable trouble1 that it appeared1 generally1 in ,europe about the end of the #agth century2 that it was first imported into ,france by ,jesuits1 who had been sent out missionaries to the ,west2 and that from ,france it spread over ,europe4 ,to this day1 in many localities in ,france1 a turkey is called a ,jesuit4 ,on the farms of ,n4 ,america1 where turkeys are very common1 they are raised either from eggs which have been found1 or from young ones caught in the woods3 they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage4 ,the turkey only became gradually acclimated1 both on the continent and in ,england3 in the middle of the #ahth century1 scarcely #aj out of #bj young turkeys lived2 now1 generally speaking1 #ae out of the same number arrive at maturity4 ,,croquettes ,,of ,,turkey 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ihg4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold turkey2 to every #a_/b lb4 of meat allow #b oz4 of ham or bacon1 #b shalots1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 the yolks of #b eggs1 egg and bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,the smaller pieces1 that will not do for a fricasse or hash1 answer very well for this dish4 ,mince the meat finely with ham or bacon in the above proportion2 make a gravy of the bones and trimmings1 well seasoning it2 mince the shalots1 put them into a stewpan with the butter1 add the flour2 mix well1 then put in the mince1 and about #a_/b pint of the gravy made from the bones4 7,the proportion of the butter must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince47 ,when just boiled1 add the yolks of #b eggs2 put the mixture out to cool1 and then shape it in a wineglass4 ,cover the croquettes with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry them a delicate brown4 ,put small pieces of parsley-stems for stalks1 and serve with1 rolled bacon cut very thin4 ,time4--#h minutes to fry the croquettes4 ,seasonable from ,december to ,february4 ,,the ,,wild ,,turkey4--,in its wild state1 the turkey is gregarious1 going together in extensive flocks1 numbering as many as five hundred4 ,these frequent the great swamps of ,america1 where they roost2 but1 at sunrise1 leave these situations to repair to the dry woods1 in search of berries and acorns4 ,they perch on the boughs of trees1 and1 by rising from branch to branch1 attain the height they desire4 ,they usually mount to the highest tops1 apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they are the further they are out of danger4 ,they fly awkwardly1 but run with great swiftness1 and1 about the month of ,march become so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four hundred yards1 and are then1 also1 easily run down by a horseman4 ,now1 however1 it rarely happens that wild turkeys are seen in the inhabited parts of ,america4 ,it is only in the distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great numbers4 ,,fricasseed ,,turkey 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ihh4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast or boiled turkey2 a strip of lemon-peel1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a onion1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a pint of water1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 the yolk of an egg4 ,mode4--,cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey1 and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan1 with the lemon-peel1 herbs1 onion1 pepper1 salt1 add the water2 stew for an hour1 strain the gravy1 and lay in the pieces of turkey4 ,when warm through1 add the cream and the yolk of an egg2 stir it well round1 and1 when getting thick1 take out the pieces1 lay them on a hot dish1 and pour the sauce over4 ,garnish the fricasse with sippets of toasted bread4 ,celery or cucumbers1 cut into small pieces1 may be put into the sauce2 if the former1 it must be boiled first4 ,time4--#a hour to make the gravy4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold turkey1 #d;d4 ,seasonable from ,december to ,february4 ,,the ,,turkey4--,this is one of the gallinaceous birds1 the principal genera of which are ,pheasants1 ,turkeys1 ,peacocks1 ,bustards1 ,pintatoes1 and ,grouse4 ,they live mostly on the ground1 scraping the earth with their feet1 and feeding on seeds and grains1 which1 previous to digestion1 are macerated in their crops4 ,they usually associate in families1 consisting of one male and several females4 ,turkeys are particularly fond of the seeds of nettles1 whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison them4 ,the common turkey is a native of ,north ,america1 and1 in the reign of ,henry ,,viii41 was introduced into ,england4 ,according to ,tusser's ,five ,hundred ,points of ,good ,husbandry1 it began about the year #aehe to form a dish at our rural ,christmas feasts3-- ,beefe1 mutton1 and pork1 shred pies of the best1 ,pig1 veal1 goose1 and capon1 and turkey well drest2 ,cheese1 apples1 and nuts1 jolly carols to hear1 ,as then in the country is counted good cheer4 ,the turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear1 and its flesh is much esteemed4 ,,the ,,disposition ,,of ,,the ,,turkey4--,among themselves1 turkeys are extremely furious1 whilst amongst other animals they are usually both weak and cowardly4 ,the domestic cock frequently makes them keep at a distance1 whilst they will rarely attack him but in a united body1 when the cock is rather crushed by their weight than defeated by their prowess4 ,the disposition of the female is in general much more gentle than that of the male4 ,when leading forth her young to collect their food1 though so large and apparently so powerful a bird1 she gives them very slight protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may appear against them4 ,she rather warns them of their danger than offers to defend them2 yet she is extremely affectionate to her young4 ,,hashed ,,turkey4 #ihi4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast turkey1 #a onion1 pepper and salt to taste1 rather more than #a pint of water1 #a carrot1 #a turnip1 #a blade of mace1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 #a tablespoonful of port wine1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,cut the turkey into neat joints2 the best pieces reserve for the hash1 the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an onion cut in slices1 pepper and salt1 a carrot1 turnip1 mace1 herbs1 and water in the above proportion2 simmer these for an hour1 then strain the gravy1 thicken it with butter and flour1 flavour with ketchup and port wine1 and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through2 if there is any stuffing left1 put that in also1 as it so much improves the flavour of the gravy4 ,when it boils1 serve1 and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#a hour to make the gravy4 ,seasonable from ,december to ,february4 ,,hunting ,,turkeys4--,formerly1 in ,canada1 hunting turkeys was one of the principal diversions of the natives of that country4 ,when they discovered the retreat of the birds1 which was generally near a field of nettles1 or where grain of any kind was plentiful1 they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of the flock4 ,the turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they would run off at full speed1 and with such swiftness that they would leave the dog far behind4 ,he1 however1 would follow in their wake1 and as they could not1 for a great length of time1 continue at their speed1 they were at last forced to seek shelter in the trees4 ,there they would sit1 spent with fatigue1 till the hunters would approach1 and1 with long poles1 knock them down one after the other4 ,,roast ,,turkey4 #iij4 ,,ingredients4--,turkey2 forcemeat ,no4 #dag4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose cock turkeys by their short spurs and black legs1 in which case they are young2 if the spurs are long1 and the legs pale and rough1 they are old4 ,if the bird has been long killed1 the eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry2 but1 if fresh1 the contrary will be the case4 ,middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many persons considered superior to those of an immense growth1 as they are1 generally speaking1 much more tender4 ,they should never be dressed the same day they are killed2 but1 in cold weather1 should hang at least #h days2 if the weather is mild1 #d or #e days will be found sufficient4 ,carefully pluck the bird1 singe it with white paper1 and wipe it thoroughly with a cloth2 draw it1 preserve the liver and gizzard1 and be particular not to break the gall-bag1 as no washing will remove the bitter taste it imparts where it once touches4 ,wash it inside well1 and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth2 the outside merely requires nicely wiping1 as we have just stated4 ,cut off the neck close to the back1 but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over2 break the leg-bone close below the knee1 draw out the strings from the thighs1 and flatten the breastbone to make it look plump4 ,have ready a forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dag2 fill the breast with this1 and1 if a trussing-needle is used1 sew the neck over to the back2 if a needle is not at hand1 a skewer will answer the purpose4 ,run a skewer through the pinion and thigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side1 and press the legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones1 and put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other4 ,pass a string across the back of the bird1 catch it over the points of the skewer1 tie it in the centre of the back1 and be particular that the turkey is very firmly trussed4 ,this may be more easily accomplished with a needle and twine than with skewers4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,turkey4 ,mode4--,fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird1 put it down to a bright fire1 at some little distance at first 7afterwards draw it nearer71 and keep it well basted the whole of the time it is cooking4 ,about #a_/d hour before serving1 remove the paper1 dredge the turkey lightly with flour1 and put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle2 as the butter melts1 baste the bird with it4 ,when of a nice brown and well frothed1 serve with a tureen of good brown gravy and one of bread sauce4 ,fried sausages are a favourite addition to roast turkey2 they make a pretty garnish1 besides adding very much to the flavour4 ,when these are not at hand1 a few forcemeat balls should be placed round the dish as a garnish4 ,turkey may also be stuffed with sausage-meat1 and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is1 by many persons1 much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish4--,see coloured plate1 ,a#a4 ,time4--,small turkey1 #a-a_/b hour2 moderate-sized one1 about #aj lbs41 #b hours2 large turkey1 #b-a_/b hours1 or longer4 ,average cost1 from #ajs4 to #abs41 but expensive at ,christmas1 on account of the great demand4 ,sufficient4--,a moderate-sized turkey for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,december to ,february4 ,,english ,,turkeys4--,these are reared in great numbers in ,suffolk1 ,norfolk1 and several other counties1 whence they were wont to be driven to the ,london market in flocks of several hundreds2 the improvements in our modes of travelling now1 however1 enable them to be brought by railway4 ,their drivers used to manage them with great facility1 by means of a bit of red rag tied to the end of a long stick1 which1 from the antipathy these birds have to that colour1 effectually answered the purpose of a scourge4 ,there are three varieties of the turkey in this country1--the black1 the white1 and the speckled1 or copper-coloured4 ,the black approaches nearest to the original stock1 and is esteemed the best4 ,its flesh is white and tender1 delicate1 nourishing1 and of excellent flavour2 it greatly deteriorates with age1 however1 and is then good for little but stewing4 ,,roast ,,turkey ,,poults4 #iia4 ,,ingredients4--,turkey poult2 butter4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose a plump bird1 and truss it in the following manner3--,after it has been carefully plucked1 drawn1 and singed1 skin the neck1 and fasten the head under the wing2 turn the legs at the first joint1 and bring the feet close to the thighs1 as a woodcock should be trussed1 and do not stuff it4 ,mode4--,put it down to a bright fire1 keep it well basted1 and at first place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too much colour4 ,about #aj minutes before serving1 dredge it lightly with flour1 and baste well2 when nicely frothed1 send it to table immediately1 with a little gravy in the dish1 and some in a tureen4 ,if at hand1 a few water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish1 or it may be larded4 ,time4--,about #a hour4 ,average cost1 #gs4 to #hs4 each4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable4--,in full season from ,june to ,october4 ,,the ,,future ,,of ,,the ,,turkey4--,human ingenuity subjects almost every material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one4 ,the ,american ,indians convert then into an elegant clothing1 and1 by twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string1 with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree1 work it like matting4 ,this fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine as silk shag4 ,the natives of ,louisiana used to make fans of the tail2 and four of that appendage joined together was formerly constructed into a parasol by the ,french4 ,,to ,,bone ,a ,,turkey ,,or ,,fowl ,,without ,,opening ,,it4 7,miss ,acton's ,recipe47 #iib4 ,after the fowl has been drawn and singed1 wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth1 but do not wash it4 ,take off the head1 cut through the skin all round the first joint of the legs1 and pull them from the fowl1 to draw out the large tendons4 ,raise the flesh first from the lower part of the backbone1 and a little also from the end of the breastbone1 if necessary2 work the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh2 with the point of the knife detach the joint from it1 take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers1 and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next joint1 round which pass the point of the knife carefully1 and when the skin is loosened from it in every part1 cut round the next bone1 keeping2 the edge of the knife close to it1 until the whole of the leg is done4 ,remove the bones of the other leg in the same manner2 then detach the flesh from the back--and breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings2 proceed with these as with the legs1 but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint3 it is usual to leave the pinions unboned1 in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when it is dressed4 ,the merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut away1 the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided1 and the breastbone separated carefully from the flesh 7which1 as the work progresses1 must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl1 until it is completely inside out74 ,after the one remaining bone is removed1 draw the wings and legs back to their proper form1 and turn the fowl right side outwards4 #iic4 ,a turkey is boned exactly in the same manner2 but as it requires a very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely1 the logs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body1 to diminish the expense of this4 ,if very securely trussed1 and sewn1 the bird may be either boiled1 or stewed in rich gravy1 as well as roasted1 after being boned and forced2 but it must be most gently cooled1 or it may burst4 ,,another ,,mode ,,of ,,boning ,a ,,turkey ,,or ,,fowl4 7,miss ,acton's ,recipe47 #iid4 ,cut through the skin down the centre of the back1 and raise the flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife1 until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached4 ,till a little practice has been gained1 it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints before proceeding further2 but after they are once detached from it1 the whole of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire3 only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed4 ,the bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form1 by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat1 and the body with the livers of two or three fowls1 mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue freed from the rind1 fine sausage-meat1 or veal forcemeat1 or thin slices of the nicest bacon1 or aught else of good flavour1 which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved2 and then be sewn up and trussed as usual2 or the legs and wings may be drawn inside the body1 and the bird being first flattened on a table1 may be covered with sausage-meat1 and the various other ingredients we have named1 so placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part2 then tightly rolled1 bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape1 wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth1 closely tied at both ends1 and dressed as follows3--,put it into a braising-pan1 stewpan1 or thick iron saucepan1 bright in the inside1 and fitted as nearly as may be to its size2 add all the chicken-bones1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 two carrots1 two bay-leaves1 a large blade of mace1 twenty-four white peppercorns1 and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand2 cover the whole with good veal broth1 add salt1 if needed1 and stew it very softly1 from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half2 let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed2 and after it is lifted out1 boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it2 let it become cold1 clear off the fat1 and serve it cut into large dice or roughed1 and laid round the fowl1 which is to be served cold4 ,if restored to its form1 instead of being rolled1 it must be stewed gently for an hour1 and may then be sent to table hot1 covered with mushroom1 or any other good sauce that may be preferred2 or it may be left until the following day1 and served garnished with the jelly1 which should be firm1 and very clear and well-flavoured3 the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down1 added to the broth1 will give it the necessary degree of consistence4 ,,to ,,bone ,,fowls ,,for ,,fricassees1 ,,curries1 ,,pies4 #iie4 ,first carve them entirely into joints1 then remove the bones1 beginning with the legs and wings1 at the head of the largest bone2 hold this with the fingers1 and work the knife as directed in the recipe above4 ,the remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions4 ,,to ,,dress ,,wheatears4 #iif4 ,,ingredients4--,wheatears2 fresh butter4 ,mode4--,after the birds are picked1 gutted1 and cleaned1 truss them like larks1 put them down to a quick fire1 and baste them well with fresh butter4 ,when done1 which will be in about #bj minutes1 dish them on fried bread crumbs1 and garnish the dish with slices of lemon4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,october4 ,,the ,,wheatear4--,the wheatear is an annual visitor of ,england3 it arrives about the middle of ,march and leaves in ,september4 ,the females come about a fortnight before the males1 and continue to arrive till the middle of ,may4 ,they are in season from ,july to ,october1 and are taken in large numbers on the ,south ,downs1 in the neighbourhood of ,eastbourne1 ,brighton1 and other parts of ,sussex4 ,they are taken by means of snares and nets1 and numbers of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants4 ,the larger ones are sent to ,london and potted1 where they are by many as much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent4 ,mr4 ,pennant assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about ,eastbourne1 the existence of a species of fly which forms their favourite food1 and which feeds on the wild thyme on the adjacent hills4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,guinea-,,pig4 #iig4 ,,the ,,guinea-,,pig4--,this common hutch-companion of the rabbit1 although originally a native of ,brazil1 propagates freely in ,england and other ,european countries4 ,were it not that they suffer cruelly from cats1 and numerous other enemies1 and that it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring1 their numbers would soon become overwhelming4 ,rats1 however1 it is said1 carefully avoid them2 and for this reason they are frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers1 by way of protection for their young stock against those troublesome vermin4 ,the lower tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the guinea-pig3 here1 as he runs loose1 he will devour the waste food of his more admired companion4 ,home naturalists assert that the guinea-pig will breed at two months old1 the litter varying from four to twelve at a time4 ,it is varied in colour1--white1 fawn1 and black1 and a mixture of the three colours1 forming a tortoiseshell1 which is the more generally admired hue4 ,occasionally1 the white ones have red eyes1 like those of the ferret and the white rabbit4 ,their flesh1 although eatable1 is decidedly unfit for food2 they have been tasted1 however1 we presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of science1 or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new pleasure for his palate4 ,unless it has been that they deter rats from intruding within the rabbit-hutch1 they are as useless as they are harmless4 ,the usual ornament of an animal's hind quarters is denied them2 and were it not for this fact1 and also for their difference in colour1 the ,shaksperean locution1 a rat without a tail1 would designate them very properly4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cygnet4 #iih4 ,,the ,,cygnet4--,the ,cygnet1 or the young ,swan1 was formerly much esteemed2 but it has fallen from its high estate1 and is now rarely seen upon the table4 ,we are not sure that it is not still fattened in ,norwich for the corporation of that place4 ,persons who have property on the river there1 take the young birds1 and send them to some one who is employed by the corporation1 to be fed2 and for this trouble he is paid1 or was wont to be paid1 about half a guinea a bird4 ,it is as the future bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly admired2 when it has become old enough to grace the waters1 then it is that all admire her1 when she with ,archd neck1 ,between her white wings mantling1 proudly rows ,her state with oary feet4 ,,poultry ,,carving4 ,,roast ,,duck4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,duck4 #iii4 ,no dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as do game and poultry2 for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly the proper point4 ,a tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a carver's powers and temper1 and1 indeed1 sometimes of the good humour of those in the neighbourhood of the carver2 for a sudden tilt of the dish may eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the right or left-hand supporter of the host4 ,we will endeavour to assist those who are unacquainted with the gentle art of carving1 and also those who are but slightly acquainted with it1 by simply describing the rules to follow1 and referring to the distinctly-marked ,illustrations of each dish1 which will further help to bring light to the minds of the uninitiated4 ,if the bird be a young duckling1 it may be carved like a fowl1 viz41 by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side1 as described at ,no4 #ajjj2 but in cases where the duckling is very small1 it will be as well not to separate the leg from the wing1 as they will not then form too large a portion for a single serving4 ,after the legs and wings are disposed of1 the remainder of the duck will be also carved in the same manner as a fowl2 and not much difficulty will be experienced1 as ducklings are tender1 and the joints are easily broken by a little gentle forcing1 or penetrated by the knife4 ,in cases where the duck is a large bird1 the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose1 that is1 by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by the lines marked from #a to #b1 commencing to carve the slices close to the wing1 and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone4 ,if more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the breast1 then the legs and wings must be attacked1 in the same way as is described in connection with carving a fowl4 ,it may be here remarked1 that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of a fowl1 their position causing the waddling motion of the bird1 the thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than in a chicken3 this is the only difference worth mentioning4 ,the carver should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable2 and in order to get at this1 a cut should be made below the breast1 as shown by the line from #c to #d1 at the part called the apron1 and the spoon inserted4 7,as described in the recipe1 it is an excellent plan1 when a couple of ducks are served1 to have one with1 and the other without stuffing47 ,as to the prime parts of a duck1 it has been said that the wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer are severally the best portions4 ,some persons are fond of the feet of the duck2 and1 in trussing1 these should never be taken off4 ,the leg1 wing1 and neckbone are here shown2 so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be when cut off4 ,illustration3 ,,leg1 ,,wing1 ,,and ,,neckbone ,,of ,,duck4 ,,boiled ,,fowl4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,fowl4 ,illustration3 ,,leg1 ,,wing1 ,,and ,,neckbone ,,of ,,fowl4 #ajjj4 ,this will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry family to carve1 unless1 as may happen1 a very old farmyard occupant1 useless for egg-laying purposes1 has1 by some unlucky mischance1 been introduced info the kitchen as a fine young chicken4 ,skill1 however1 and the application of a small amount of strength1 combined with a fine keeping of the temper1 will even get over that difficulty4 ,fixing the fork firmly in the breast1 let the knife be sharply passed along the line shown from #a to #b2 then cut downwards from that line to fig4 #c2 and the wing1 it will be found1 can be easily withdrawn4 ,the shape of the wing should be like the accompanying engraving4 ,let the fork be placed inside the leg1 which should be gently forced away from the body of the fowl2 and the joint1 being thus discovered1 the carver can readily cut through it1 and the leg can be served4 ,when the leg is displaced1 it should be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut4 ,the legs and wings on either side having been taken off1 the carver should draw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line #d to #e3 by this means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought1 which1 being lifted up and pressed backward1 will immediately come off4 ,the collar--or neck-bones are the next to consider3 these lie on each side of the merrythought1 close under the upper part of the wings2 and1 in order to free these from the fowl1 they must also be raised by the knife at their broad end1 and turned from the body towards the breastbone1 until the shorter piece of the bone1 as shown in the cut1 breaks off4 ,there will now be left only the breast1 with the ribs4 ,the breast can be1 without difficulty1 disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the latter1 which will offer little impediment4 ,the side-bones are now to be taken off2 and to do this1 the lower end of the back should be turned from the carver1 who should press the point of the knife through the top of the backbone1 near the centre1 bringing it down towards the end of the back completely through the bone4 ,if the knife is now turned in the opposite direction1 the joint will be easily separated from the vertebra4 ,the backbone being now uppermost1 the fork should be pressed firmly down on it1 whilst at the same time the knife should be employed in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork1 and thus the back will be dislocated about its middle4 ,the wings1 breast1 and merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl1 and are usually served to the ladies of the company1 to whom legs1 except as a matter of paramount necessity1 should not be given4 ,byron gave it as one reason why he did not like dining with ladies1 that they always had the wings of the fowls1 which he himself preferred4 ,we heard a gentleman who1 when he might have had a wing1 declare his partiality for a leg1 saying that he had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time1 that he had at last come to like them better than the other more prized parts4 ,if the fowl is1 capon-like1 very large1 slices maybe carved from its breast in the same manner as from a turkey's4 ,,roast ,,fowl4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,fowl4 #ajja4 ,generally speaking1 it is not necessary so completely to cut up a fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs1 unless1 indeed1 a large family party is assembled1 and there are a number of little mouths to be filled1 or some other such circumstances prevail4 ,a roast fowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl1 ,no4 #ajjj2 viz41 by cutting along the line from4 #a to #b1 and then round the leg between it and the wing4 ,the markings and detached pieces1 as shown in the engravings under the heading of ,boiled ,fowl1 supersede the necessity of our lengthily again describing the operation4 ,it may be added1 that the liver1 being considered a delicacy1 should be divided1 and one half served with each wing4 ,in the case of a fowl being shifted1 it will be proper to give each guest a portion1 unless it be not agreeable to some one of the party4 ,,roast ,,goose4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,goose4 ,illustration3 ,,leg1 ,,wing1 ,,and ,,neck-,,bone ,,of ,,goose4 #ajjb4 ,it would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal of happiness to an inexperienced carver1 especially if there is a large party to serve1 and the slices off the breast should not suffice to satisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites1 produced1 may be1 by the various sports in vogue at ,michaelmas and ,christmas4 ,the beginning of the task1 however1 is not in any way difficult4 ,evenly-cut slices1 not too thick or too thin1 should be carved from the breast in the direction of the line from #b to #c2 after the first slice has been cut1 a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron1 passing it round the line1 as indicated by the figures #a1 #a1 #a3 here the stuffing is located1 and some of this should be served on each plate1 unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of some one guest4 ,if the carver manages cleverly1 he will be able to cut a very large number of fine slices off the breast1 and the more so if he commences close down by the wing1 and carves upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone4 ,as many slices as can be taken from the breast being carved1 the wings should be cut off2 and the same process as described in carving boiled fowl1 is made use of in this instance1 only more dexterity and greater force will most probably be required3 the shape of the leg1 when disengaged from the body of the goose1 should be like that shown in the accompanying engraving4 ,it will be necessary1 perhaps1 in taking off the leg1 to turn the goose on its side1 and then1 pressing down the small end of the leg1 the knife should be passed under it from the top quite down to the joint2 the leg being now turned back by the fork1 the knife must cut through the joint1 loosening the thigh-bone from its socket4 ,the merrythought1 which in a goose is not so large as might be expected1 is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl--by passing the knife under it1 and pressing it backwards towards the neck4 ,the neck-bones1 of which we give a cut1 are freed by the same process as are those of a fowl2 and the same may be said of all the other parts of this bird4 ,the breast of a goose is the part most esteemed2 all parts1 however1 are good1 and full of juicy flavour4 ,,pigeon4 ,illustration3 ,,pigeon4 #ajjc4 ,a very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon3 the knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from #a to #b1 entirely through the bird1 cutting it into two precisely equal and similar parts4 ,if it is necessary to make three pieces of it1 a small wing should be cut off with the leg on either side1 thus serving two guests2 and1 by this means1 there will be sufficient meat left on the breast to send to the third guest4 ,,rabbits4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,rabbit4 #ajjd4 ,in carving a boiled rabbit1 let the knife be drawn on each side of the backbone1 the whole length of the rabbit1 as shown by the dotted line #c to #d3 thus the rabbit will be in three parts4 ,now let the back be divided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from #a to #b2 then let the leg be taken off1 as shown by the line #e to #f1 and the shoulder1 as shown by the line #g to #h4 ,this1 in our opinion1 is the best plan to carve a rabbit1 although there are other modes which are preferred by some4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,rabbit4 ,a roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to be boiled2 but the carving is nearly similar1 as will be seen by the cut4 ,the back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give1 and the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as those of the boiled animal4 ,,roast ,,turkey4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,turkey4 #ajje4 ,a noble dish is a turkey1 roast or boiled4 ,a ,christmas dinner1 with the middle classes of this empire1 would scarcely be a ,christmas dinner without its turkey2 and we can hardly imagine an object of greater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familias carving1 at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity1 his own fat turkey1 and carving it well4 ,the only art consists1 as in the carving of a goose1 in getting from the breast as many fine slices as possible2 and all must have remarked the very great difference in the large number of people whom a good carver will find slices for1 and the comparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving4 ,as we have stated in both the carving of a duck and goose1 the carver should commence cutting slices close to the wing from1 #b to #c1 and then proceed upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone3 this is not the usual plan1 but1 in practice1 will be found the best4 ,the breast is the only part which is looked on as fine in a turkey1 the legs being very seldom cut off and eaten at table3 they are usually removed to the kitchen1 where they are taken off1 as here marked1 to appear only in a form which seems to have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table1--we mean devilled3 served in this way1 they are especially liked and relished4 ,a boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,game4 #ajjf4 ,,the ,,common ,,law ,,of ,,england has a maxim1 that goods1 in which no person can claim any property1 belong1 by his or her prerogative1 to the king or queen4 ,accordingly1 those animals1 those ferae naturae1 which come under the denomination of game1 are1 in our laws1 styled his or her majesty's1 and may therefore1 as a matter of course1 be granted by the sovereign to another2 in consequence of which another may prescribe to possess the same within a certain precinct or lordship4 ,from this circumstance arose the right of lords of manors or others to the game within their respective liberties2 and to protect these species of animals1 the game laws were originated1 and still remain in force4 ,there are innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties on persons who may illegally kill game1 and some of them are very severe2 but they cannot be said to answer their end1 nor can it be expected that they ever will1 whilst there are so many persons of great wealth who have not otherwise the means of procuring game1 except by purchase1 and who will have it4 ,these must necessarily encourage poaching1 which1 to a very large extent1 must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to their intended effects upon the rustic population4 #ajjg4 ,,the ,,object ,,of ,,these ,,laws1 however1 is not wholly confined to the restraining of the illegal sportsman4 ,even qualified or privileged persons must not kill game at all seasons4 ,during the day1 the hours allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise till one hour after sunset2 whilst the time of killing certain species is also restricted to certain seasons4 ,for example1 the season for bustard-shooting is from ,december #a to ,march #a2 for grouse1 or red grouse1 from ,august #ab to ,december #aj2 heath-fowl1 or black-game1 from ,august #bj to ,december #bj2 partridges from ,september #a to ,february #ab2 pheasants from ,october #a to ,february #a2 widgeons1 wild ducks1 wild geese1 wild fowls1 at any time but in ,june1 ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,hares may be killed at any time of the year1 under certain restrictions defined by an act of parliament of the #ajth of ,george ,,iii4 #ajjh4 ,,the ,,exercise ,,or ,,diversion ,,of ,,pursuing ,,four-,,footed ,,beasts ,,of ,,game is called hunting1 which1 to this day1 is followed in the field and the forest1 with gun and greyhound4 ,birds1 on the contrary1 are not hunted1 but shot in the air1 or taken with nets and other devices1 which is called fowling2 or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey1 which is called hawking1 a species of sport now fallen almost entirely into desuetude in ,england1 although1 in some parts1 showing signs of being revived4 #ajji4 ,,in ,,pursuing ,,four-,,footed ,,beasts1 such as deer1 boars1 and hares1 properly termed hunting1 mankind were1 from the earliest ages1 engaged4 ,it was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human support before the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced4 ,it is an employment1 however1 requiring both art and contrivance1 as well as a certain fearlessness of character1 combined with the power of considerable physical endurance4 ,without these1 success could not be very great2 but1 at best1 the occupation is usually accompanied with rude and turbulent habits2 and1 when combined with these1 it constitutes what is termed the savage state of man4 ,as culture advances1 and as the soil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenance of the tamer or more domesticated animals1 the range of the huntsman is proportionably limited2 so that when a country has attained to a high state of cultivation1 hunting becomes little else than an amusement of the opulent4 ,in the case of fur-bearing animals1 however1 it is somewhat different2 for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with one of its most valuable materials of commerce4 #ajaj4 ,,the ,,themes ,,which ,,form ,,the ,,minstrelsy ,,of ,,the ,,earliest ,,ages1 either relate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field4 ,even the sacred writings introduce us to ,nimrod1 the first mighty hunter before the ,lord1 and tell us that ,ishmael1 in the solitudes of ,arabia1 became a skilful bow-man2 and that ,david1 when yet young1 was not afraid to join in combat with the lion or the bear4 ,the ,greek mythology teems with hunting exploits4 ,hercules overthrows the ,nemaean lion1 the ,erymanthean boar1 and the hydra of ,lerna2 ,diana descends to the earth1 and pursues the stag2 whilst ,aesculapius1 ,nestor1 ,theseus1 ,ulysses1 and ,achilles are all followers of the chase4 ,aristotle1 sage as he was1 advises young men to apply themselves early to it2 and ,plato finds in it something divine4 ,horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for the path of glory1 and several of the heroes of ,homer are its ardent votaries4 ,the ,romans followed the hunting customs of the ,greeks1 and the ancient ,britons were hunters before ,julius ,caesar invaded their shores4 #ajaa4 ,,although ,,the ,,ancient ,,britons ,,followed ,,hunting1 however1 they did not confine themselves solely to its pursuit4 ,they bred cattle and tilled the ground1 and1 to some extent1 indicated the rudimentary state of a pastoral and agricultural life2 but1 in every social change1 the sports of the field maintained their place4 ,after the expulsion of the ,danes1 and during the brief restoration of the ,saxon monarchy1 these were still followed3 even ,edward the ,confessor1 who would join in no other secular amusements1 took the greatest delight1 says ,william of ,malmesbury1 to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game1 and to cheer them with his voice4 #ajab4 ,,nor ,,was ,,edward the only ,english sovereign who delighted in the pleasures of the chase4 ,william the ,norman1 and his two sons who succeeded him1 were passionately fond of the sport1 and greatly circumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to the killing of game4 ,the privilege of hunting in the royal forests was confined to the king and his favourites2 and in order that these umbrageous retreats might be made more extensive1 whole villages were depopulated1 places of worship levelled with the ground1 and every means adopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space1 in accordance with the royal pleasure1 for the beasts of the chase4 ,king ,john was likewise especially attached to the sports of the field2 whilst ,edward ,,iii4 was so enamoured of the exercise1 that even during his absence at the wars in ,france1 he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as many hare-hounds1 and every day amused himself either with hunting or hawking4 ,great in wisdom as the ,scotch ,solomon1 ,james ,i41 conceited himself to be1 he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting1 hawking1 and shooting4 ,yea1 it is oven asserted that his precious time was divided between hunting1 the bottle1 and his standish3 to the first he gave his fair weather1 to the second his dull1 and to the third his cloudy4 ,from his days down to the present1 the sports of the field have continued to hold their high reputation1 not only for the promotion of health1 but for helping to form that manliness of character which enters so largely into the composition of the sons of the ,british soil4 ,that it largely helps to do this there can be no doubt4 ,the late duke of ,grafton1 when hunting1 was1 on one occasion1 thrown into a ditch4 ,a young curate1 engaged in the same chase1 cried out1 ,lie still1 my lord6 leapt over him1 and pursued his sport4 ,such an apparent want of feeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke2 but not so4 ,on his being helped up by his attendant1 he said1 ,that man shall have the first good living that falls to my disposal3 had he stopped to have given me his sympathy1 ,i never would have given him anything4 ,such was the manly sentiment of the duke1 who delighted in the exemplification of a spirit similarly ardent as his own in the sport1 and above the baseness of an assumed sorrow4 #ajac4 ,,that ,,hunting ,,has ,,in ,,many ,,instances ,,been ,,carried ,,to ,,an ,,excess is well known1 and the match given by the ,prince ,esterhazy1 regent of ,hungary1 on the signing of the treaty of peace with ,france1 is not the least extraordinary upon record4 ,on that occasion1 there were killed #afj deer1 #ajj wild boars1 #cjj hares1 and #hj foxes3 this was the achievement of one day4 ,enormous1 however1 as this slaughter may appear1 it is greatly inferior to that made by the contemporary king of ,naples on a hunting expedition4 ,that sovereign had a larger extent of ground at his command1 and a longer period for the exercise of his talents2 consequently1 his sport1 if it can so be called1 was proportionably greater4 ,it was pursued during his journey to ,vienna1 in ,austria1 ,bohemia1 and ,moravia2 when he killed #e bears1 #a1hbj boars1 #a1iej deer1 #a1ade does1 #a1fbe roebucks1 #aa1aba rabbits1 #ac wolves1 #ag badgers1 #af1ced hares1 and #ced foxes4 ,in birds1 during the same expedition1 he killed #ae1cej pheasants and #ab1cce partridges4 ,such an amount of destruction can hardly be called sport2 it resembles more the indiscriminate slaughter of a battle-field1 where the scientific engines of civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages4 #ajad4 ,,deer ,,and ,,hares may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals now hunted in ,britain for the table2 and even those are not followed with the same ardour as they were wont to be4 ,still1 there is no country in the world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such an extent as in ,great ,britain1 and where the pleasures of the chase are so well understood1 and conducted on such purely scientific principles4 ,the ,fox1 of all the beasts of the field1 is now considered to afford the best sport4 ,for this1 it is infinitely superior to the stag2 for the real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for and found like other game which are pursued with hounds4 ,in the case of finding an outlying fallow-deer1 which is unharboured1 in this manner1 great sport is frequently obtained2 but this is now rarely to be met with in ,britain4 ,in reference to hare-hunting1 it is much followed in many parts of this and the sister island2 but1 by the true foxhunter1 it is considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and old men4 ,although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase1 however1 it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding which the other requires4 #ajae4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,taking ,,or ,,killing ,,birds is called fowling1 and is either practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property1 or for a livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus4 ,when practised as an amusement1 it principally consists of killing them with a light firearm called a fowling-piece1 and the sport is secured to those who pursue it by the game laws4 ,the other means by which birds are taken1 consist in imitating their voices1 or leading them1 by other artifices1 into situations where they become entrapped by nets1 birdlime1 or otherwise4 ,for taking large numbers of birds1 the pipe or call is the most common means employed2 and this is done during the months of ,september and ,october4 ,we will here briefly give a description of the modus operandi pursued in this sport4 ,a thin wood is usually the spot chosen1 and1 under a tree at a little distance from the others1 a cabin is erected1 and there are only such branches left on the tree as are necessary for the placing of the birdlime1 and which are covered with it4 ,around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches1 also covered with birdlime4 ,having thus prepared all that is necessary1 the birdcatcher places himself in the cabin1 and1 at sunrise and sunset1 imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance4 ,supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated1 immediately different kinds of birds will flock together at the cry of their common enemy1 when1 at every instant1 they will be seen falling to the ground1 their wings being of no use to them1 from their having come in contact with the birdlime4 ,the cries of those which are thus situated now attract others1 and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time4 ,if owls were themselves desired to be taken1 it is only during the night that this can be done1 by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse4 ,larks1 other birds1 and water-fowl1 are sometimes taken by nets2 but to describe fully the manner in which this is done1 would here occupy too much space4 #ajaf4 ,,feathered ,,game ,,have ,,from ,,time ,,immemorial given gratification to the palate of man4 ,with the exception of birds of prey1 and some other species1 ,moses permitted his people to eat them2 and the ,egyptians made offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds4 ,the ancient ,greeks commenced their repasts with little roasted birds2 and feathered game1 amongst the ,romans1 was served as the second course4 ,indeed1 several of the ancient gourmands of the imperial city were so fond of game1 that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and pheasants4 ,some modern nations1 the ,french among others1 says ,monsieur ,soyer1 formerly ate the heron1 crane1 crow1 stork1 swan1 cormorant1 and bittern4 ,the first three especially were highly esteemed2 and ,laillevant1 cook of ,charles ,,vii41 teaches us how to prepare these meagre1 tough birds4 ,belon says1 that in spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it1 the bittern is1 however1 among the delicious treats of the ,french4 ,this writer also asserts1 that a falcon or a vulture1 either roasted or boiled1 is excellent eating2 and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game1 the falconer instantly cooked it4 ,lebaut calls the heron a royal viand4 #ajag4 ,,the ,,heron ,,was ,,hunted ,,by ,,the ,,hawk1 and the sport of hawking is usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be practised in the country4 ,this precedency it probably obtained from its being a pastime to generally followed by the nobility1 not in ,great ,britain only1 but likewise on the continent4 ,in former times1 persons of high rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks3 the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one country to another1 and sometimes even took them to battle with them1 and would not part with them when taken prisoners1 even to obtain their own liberty4 ,such birds were esteemed as the ensigns of nobility1 and no action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than that of giving up his hawk4 ,we have already alluded to the hunting propensities of our own ,edward ,,iii41 and we may also allude to his being equally addicted to hawking4 ,according to ,froissart1 when this sovereign invaded ,france1 he took with him thirty falconers on horseback1 who had charge of his hawks1 and every day1 as his royal fancy inclined him1 he either hunted1 or went to the river for the purpose of hawking4 ,in the great and powerful1 the pursuit of game as a sport is allowable1 but in those who have to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow1 it is to be condemned4 ,in ,burton's ,anatomy of ,melancholy we find a humorous story1 told by ,poggius1 the ,florentine1 who reprobates this folly in such persons4 ,it is this4 ,a physician of ,milan1 that cured madmen1 had a pit of water in his house1 in which he kept his patients1 some up to the knees1 some to the girdle1 some to the chin1 pro modo insaniae1 as they were more or less affected4 ,one of them by chance1 that was well recovered1 stood in the door1 and seeing a gallant pass by with a hawk on his fist1 well mounted1 with his spaniels after him1 would needs know to what use all this preparation served4 ,he made answer1 ,to kill certain fowl4 ,the patient demanded again1 what his fowl might be worth which he killed in a year8 ,he replied1 ,five or ten crowns2 and when he urged him further1 what his dogs1 horse1 and hawks stood him in1 he told him four hundred crowns4 ,with that the patient bade him begone1 as he loved his life and welfare2 for if our master come and find thee here1 he will put thee in the pit1 amongst the madmen1 up to the chin4 ,thus reproving the madness of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports1 to the neglect of their business and necessary affairs4 #ajah4 ,,as ,,the ,,inevitable ,,result ,,of ,,social ,,progress is1 at least to limit1 if not entirely to suppress1 such sports as we have here been treating of1 much of the romance of country life has passed away4 ,this is more especially the case with falconry1 which had its origin about the middle of the fourth century1 although1 lately1 some attempts have been rather successfully made to institute a revival of the gentle art of hawking4 ,julius ,firmicus1 who lived about that time1 is1 so far as we can find1 the first ,latin author who speaks of falconers1 and the art of teaching one species of birds to fly after and catch others4 ,the occupation of these functionaries has now1 however1 all but ceased4 ,new and nobler efforts characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their civilization1 and the sports of the field have1 to a large extent1 been superseded by other exercises1 it may be less healthful and invigorating1 but certainly more elegant1 intellectual1 and humanizing4 ,illustration ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,roast ,,black-,,cock4 #ajai4 ,,ingredients4--,black-cock1 butter1 toast4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,black-,,cock4 ,mode4--,let these birds hang for a few days1 or they will be tough and tasteless1 if not well kept4 ,pluck and draw them1 and wipe the insides and outsides with a damp cloth1 as washing spoils the flavour4 ,cut off the heads1 and truss them1 the same as a roast fowl1 cutting off the toes1 and scalding and peeling the feet4 ,trussing them with the head on1 as shown in the engraving1 is still practised by many cooks1 but the former method is now considered the best4 ,put them down to a brisk fire1 well baste them with butter1 and serve with a piece of toast under1 and a good gravy and bread sauce4 ,after trussing1 some cooks cover the breast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon1 and then roast them4 ,they should be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments as with the plainly-roasted birds4 ,time4--#de to #ej minutes4 ,average cost1 from #es4 to #fs4 the brace2 but seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#b or #c for a dish4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,august to the end of ,december4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,black-,,cock4 ,,the ,,black-,,cock1 ,,heath-,,cock1 ,,moor-,,fowl1 ,,or ,,heath-,,poult4--,this bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds1 and the hen about two4 ,it is at present confined to the more northern parts of ,britain1 culture and extending population having united in driving it into more desolate regions1 except1 perhaps1 in a few of the more wild and less-frequented portions of ,england4 ,it may still be found in the ,new ,forest1 in ,hampshire1 ,dartmoor1 and ,sedgmoor1 in ,devonshire1 and among the hills of ,somersetshire1 contiguous to the latter4 ,it may also be found in ,staffordshire1 in ,north ,wales1 and again in the north of ,england2 but nowhere so plentiful as in some parts of the ,highlands of ,scotland4 ,the males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are about half-grown1 when the black feathers begin to appear1 first about the sides and breast4 ,their food consists of the tops of birch and heath1 except when the mountain berries are ripe1 at which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the bilberries and cranberries from the bushes4 ,large numbers of these birds are found in ,norway1 almost rivalling the turkey in point of size4 ,some of them have begun to be imported into ,london1 where they are vended in the shops2 but the flavour of their flesh is not equal to that of the ,scotch bird4 ,,hashed ,,wild ,,duck4 #ajbj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast wild duck1 #a pint of good brown gravy1 #b tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs1 #a glass of claret1 salt1 cayenne1 and mixed spices to taste2 #a tablespoonful of lemon or ,seville orange-juice4 ,mode4--,cut the remains of the duck into neat joints1 put them into a stewpan1 with all the above ingredients2 let them get gradually hot by the side of the fire1 and occasionally stir the contents2 when on the point of boiling1 serve1 and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,wild ,,duck4 #ajba4 ,,ingredients4--#b wild ducks1 #d shalots1 #a pint of stock ,no4 #aje1 #a glass of port wine1 #a oz4 of butter1 a little flour1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day will answer for this dish4 ,cut them into joints1 reserve the legs1 wings1 and breasts until wanted2 put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots and stock1 and let them simmer for about #a_/b hour1 and strain the gravy4 ,put the butter into a stewpan2 when melted1 dredge in a little flour1 and pour in the gravy made from the bones2 give it one boil1 and strain it again2 add the wine1 lemon-juice1 and cayenne2 lay in the pieces of duck1 and let the whole gradually warm through1 but do not allow it to boil1 or the duck will be hard4 ,the gravy should not be too thick1 and should be very highly seasoned4 ,the squeeze of a ,seville orange is a great improvement to this dish4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to make the gravy2 #a_/d hour for the duck gradually to warm through4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,,roast ,,wild ,,duck4 #ajbb4 ,,ingredients4--,wild duck1 flour1 butter4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,wild ,,duck4 ,mode4--,carefully pluck and draw them2 ,cut off the heads close to the necks1 leaving sufficient skin to turn over1 and do not cut off the feet2 some twist each leg at the knuckle1 and rest the claws on each side of the breast2 others truss them as shown in our ,illustration4 ,roast the birds before a quick fire1 and1 when they are first put down1 let them remain for #e minutes without basting 7this will keep the gravy in72 afterwards baste plentifully with butter1 and a few minutes before serving dredge them lightly with flour2 baste well1 and send them to table nicely frothed1 and full of gravy4 ,if overdone1 the birds will lose their flavour4 ,serve with a good gravy in the dish1 or orange gravy1 ,no4 #dhh2 and send to table with them a cut lemon4 ,to take off the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have1 baste them for a few minutes with hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt2 then take away the pan1 and baste with butter4--,see coloured plate1 ,g#a4 ,time4--,when liked underdressed1 #bj to #be minutes2 well done1 #be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 to #es4 the couple4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,wild ,,duck4 ,,the ,,wild ,,duck4--,the male of the wild dock is called a mallard2 and the young ones are called flappers4 ,the time to try to find a brood of these is about the month of ,july1 among the rushes of the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream1 where1 if the old bird is sprung1 it may be taken as a certainty that its brood is not far off4 ,when once found1 flappers are easily killed1 as they attain their full growth before their wings are fledged4 ,consequently1 the sport is more like hunting water-rats than shooting birds4 ,when the flappers take wing1 they assume the name of wild ducks1 and about the month of ,august repair to the corn-fields1 where they remain until they are disturbed by the harvest-people4 ,they then frequent the rivers pretty early in the evening1 and give excellent sport to those who have patience to wait for them4 ,in order to know a wild duck1 it is necessary only to look at the claws1 which should be black4 ,,hashed ,,game 7,cold ,meat ,cookery74 #ajbc4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold game1 #a onion stuck with #c cloves1 a few whole peppers1 a strip of lemon-peel1 salt to taste1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a glass of port wine1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a tablespoonful of ketchup1 #a pint of water or weak stock4 ,mode4--,cut the remains of cold game into joints1 reserve the best pieces1 and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the onion1 pepper1 lemon-peel1 salt1 and water or weak stock2 stew these for about an hour1 and strain the gravy2 thicken it with butter and flour2 add the wine1 lemon-juice1 and ketchup2 lay in the pieces of game1 and let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire2 do not allow it to boil1 or the game will be hard4 ,when on the point of simmering1 serve1 and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,altogether #a-a_/d hour4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,note4--,any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe1 and the flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars1 curvy powder1 c42 but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients1 as a dish of game should really have a gamy taste2 and if too many sauces1 essences1 c41 are added to the gravy1 they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the dish should possess4 ,,grouse ,,pie4 #ajbd4 ,,ingredients4--,grouse2 cayenne1 salt1 and pepper to taste2 #a lb4 of rump-steak1 #a_/b pint of well-seasoned broth1 puff paste4 ,mode4--,line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat pieces1 and1 should the grouse be large1 cut them into joints2 but1 if small1 they may be laid in the pie whole2 season highly with salt1 cayenne1 and black pepper2 pour in the broth1 and cover with a puff paste2 brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,if the grouse is cut into joints1 the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy1 by stewing them with an onion1 a little sherry1 a bunch of herbs1 and a blade of mace3 this should be poured in after the pie is baked4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the grouse1 which are seldom bought1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable from the #abth of ,august to the beginning of ,december4 ,,roast ,,grouse4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,grouse4 #ajbe4 ,,ingredients4--,grouse1 butter1 a thick slice of toasted bread4 ,mode4--,let the birds hang as long as possible2 pluck and draw them2 wipe1 but do not wash them1 inside and out1 and truss them without the head1 the same as for a roast fowl4 ,many persons still continue to truss them with the head under the wing1 but the former is now considered the most approved method4 ,put them down to a sharp clear fire2 keep them well basted the whole of the time they are cooking1 and serve them on a buttered toast1 soaked in the dripping-pan1 with a little melted butter poured over them1 or with bread-sauce and gravy4--,see coloured plate1 ,l#a4 ,time4--#a_/b hour2 if liked very thoroughly done1 #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 to #bs4 #f;d4 the brace2 but seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from the #abth of ,august to the beginning of ,december4 ,illustration3 ,,red ,,grouse4 ,,grouse4--,these birds are divided into wood grouse1 black grouse1 red grouse1 and white grouse4 ,the wood grouse is further distinguished as the cock of the wood1 or capercalzie1 and is as large as the turkey1 being about two feet nine inches in length1 and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds4 ,the female is considerably less than the male1 and1 in the colour of her feathers1 differs widely from the other4 ,this beautiful species is found principally in lofty1 mountainous regions1 and is very rare in ,great ,britain2 but in the pine forests of ,russia1 ,sweden1 and other northern countries1 it is very common4 ,in these it has its habitat1 feeding on the cones of the trees1 and the fruits of various kinds of plants1 especially the berry of the jumper4 ,black grouse is also distinguished as black-game1 or the black-cock4 ,it is not larger than the common hen1 and weighs only about four pounds4 ,the female is about one-third less than the male1 and also differs considerably from him in point of colour4 ,like the former1 they are found chiefly in high situations1 and are common in ,russia1 ,siberia1 and other northern countries4 ,they are also found in the northern parts of ,great ,britain1 feeding in winter on the various berries and fruits belonging to mountainous countries1 and1 in summer1 frequently descending to the lower lands1 to feed upon corn4 ,the red grouse1 gorcock1 or moor-cock1 weighs about nineteen ounces1 and the female somewhat less4 ,in the wild heathy tracts of the northern counties of ,england it is plentiful1 also in ,wales and the ,highlands of ,scotland4 ,mr4 ,pennant considered it peculiar to ,britain1 those found in the mountainous parts of ,spain1 ,france1 and ,italy1 being only varieties of the same bird4 ,white grouse1 white game1 or ptarmigan1 is nearly the same size as the red grouse1 and is found in lofty situations1 where it supports itself in the severest weather4 ,it is to be met with in most of the northern countries of ,europe1 and appears even in ,greenland4 ,in the ,hebrides1 ,orkneys1 and the ,highlands of ,scotland1 it is also found2 and sometimes1 though rarely1 among the fells of ,northumberland and ,cumberland4 ,in winter they fly in flocks1 and are so little familiar with the sight of man1 that they are easily shot1 and even snared4 ,they feed on the wild produce of the hills1 which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but not unpalatable taste4 ,according to ,buffon1 it is dark-coloured1 and somewhat flavoured like the hare4 ,,grouse ,,salad4 7,soyer's ,recipe47 #ajbf4 ,,ingredients4--#h eggs1 butter1 fresh salad1 #a or #b grouse2 for the sauce1 #a teaspoonful of minced shalot1 #a teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 the yolk of #a egg1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 #a_/d oz4 of salt1 #d tablespoonfuls of oil1 #b tablespoonfuls of ,chili vinegar1 #a gill of cream4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs hard1 shell them1 throw them into cold water cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in the dish1 cut each one into four lengthwise1 and make a very thin flat border of butter1 about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is to be served on2 fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other1 the yolk outside1 or the yolk and white alternately2 lay in the centre a fresh salad of whatever is in season1 and1 having previously roasted the grouse rather underdone1 cut it into eight or ten pieces1 and prepare the sauce as follows3--,put the shalots into a basin1 with the sugar1 the yolk of an egg1 the parsley1 and salt1 and mix in by degrees the oil and vinegar2 when these ingredients are well mixed1 put the sauce on ice or in a cool place4 ,when ready to serve1 whip the cream rather thick1 which lightly mix with it2 then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad1 sauce over so as to cover each piece1 then lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse1 pour the rest of the sauce over1 and serve4 ,the eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on the point4 ,anchovy and gherkin1 cut into small diamonds1 may be placed between1 or cut gherkins in slices1 and a border of them laid round4 ,tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition4 ,the remains of cold black-game1 pheasant1 or partridge may be used in the above manner1 and will make a very delicate dish4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable from the #abth of ,august to the beginning of ,december4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,capercalzie4 ,,the ,,capercalzie4--,this bird was to be met with formerly both in ,ireland and ,scotland1 but is now extinct4 ,the male lives separate from the females1 except in the breeding season4 ,its manners and habits are very like those of black grouse1 except that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine1 on the tender shoots of which it feeds4 ,it is by no means uncommon in the woods of ,norway1 whence we received it4 ,it is also found abundant in ,russia1 ,siberia1 ,italy1 and in some portions of the ,alps4 ,it was1 in #agfj1 last seen in ,scotland1 in the woods of ,strathglass4 ,recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it into that country1 but without success2 principally owing1 as we should imagine1 to the want of sufficient food suitable for its sustenance4 ,,grouse4--,under this general term are included several species of game birds1 called black1 red1 woodland1 and white grouse4 ,the black is larger than the red 7see ,no4 #ajbe71 and is not so common1 and therefore held in higher estimation4 ,the red1 however1 is a bird of exquisite flavour1 and is a native of the mountainous districts of ,scotland and the north of ,england4 ,it feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst them3 its colour is a rich chestnut1 striped with black4 ,the woodland1 or cock of the wood1 is the largest among the bird tribes which pass under the denomination of game4 ,it is smaller than the turkey1 and was originally common in our mountains2 but it is now to be found only in the mountains of ,scotland1 though it still abounds in the north of ,europe1 ,germany1 and in the ,alps4 ,it is esteemed as delicious eating1 and its plumage is extremely beautiful4 ,the white grouse1 or ptarmigan1 is not a plentiful bird in ,britain2 but it is still found in the islands1 and weighs about half a pound4 ,the ,london market is supplied by ,norway and ,scotland2 those from the former country being esteemed the best4 ,when young1 it is held in high estimation1 being considered as little different from common grouse4 ,,roast ,,hare4 #ajbg4 ,,ingredients4--,hare1 forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 a little milk1 butter4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose a young hare2 which may be known by its smooth and sharp claws1 and by the cleft in the lip not being much spread4 ,to be eaten in perfection1 it must hang for some time2 and1 if properly taken care of1 it may be kept for several days4 ,it is better to hang without being paunched2 but should it be previously emptied1 wipe the inside every day1 and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger1 to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions1 and which also affects the stuffing4 ,after it is skinned1 wash it well1 and soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood2 if old1 let it lie in vinegar for a short time1 but wash it well afterwards in several waters4 ,make a forcemeat by recipe ,no4 #dag1 wipe the hare dry1 fill the belly with it1 and sew it up4 ,bring the hind and fore legs close to the body towards the head1 run a skewer through each1 fix the head between the shoulders by means of another skewer1 and be careful to leave the ears on4 ,pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer1 and tie it above the back4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,hare4 ,mode4--,the hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is first laid down1 or the outside will become dry and hard before the inside is done4 ,baste it well with milk for a short time1 and afterwards with butter2 and particular attention must be paid to the basting1 so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive4 ,when it is almost roasted enough1 flour the hare1 and baste well with butter4 ,when nicely frothed1 dish it1 remove the skewers1 and send it to table with a little gravy in the dish1 and a tureen of the same4 ,red-currant jelly must also not be forgotten1 as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast hare4 ,for economy1 good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk and butter to baste with2 but the basting1 as we have before stated1 must be continued without intermission4 ,if the liver is good1 it maybe parboiled1 minced1 and mixed with the stuffing2 but it should not be used unless quite fresh4--,see coloured plate1 ,e#a4 ,time4--,a middling-sized hare1 #a-a_/d hour2 a large hare1 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 from #ds4 to #fs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,,the ,,hare4--,this little animal is found generally distributed over ,europe1 and1 indeed1 in most parts of the northern world4 ,its extreme timidity is the endowment which ,providence has bestowed upon it as a means of defence2 it is therefore attentive to every sound1 and is supplied with ears both long and tubular1 with which it can hear with great acuteness4 ,its eyes1 also1 are so constructed1 and placed so prominent in its head1 that it can see both before and behind it4 ,it lives entirely upon vegetables1 but its flesh is considered dry1 notwithstanding that it is deemed1 in many respects1 superior to that of the rabbit1 being more savoury1 and of a much higher flavour4 ,its general time of feeding is the evening2 but during the day1 if not disturbed1 it adheres closely to its form4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,hare4 ,,potted ,,hare 7a ,luncheon or ,breakfast ,dish74 #ajbh4 ,,ingredients4--#a hare1 a few slices of bacon1 a large bunch of savoury herbs1 #d cloves1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole allspice1 #b carrots1 #b onions1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a pint of water1 #b glasses of sherry4 ,mode4--,skin1 empty1 and wash the hare2 cut it down the middle1 and put it into a stewpan1 with a few slices of bacon under and over it2 add the remaining ingredients1 and stew very gently until the hare is tender1 and the flesh will separate easily from the bones4 ,when done enough1 take it up1 remove the bones1 and pound the meat1 with the bacon1 in a mortar1 until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste4 ,should it not be sufficiently seasoned1 add a little cayenne1 salt1 and pounded mace1 but be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients4 ,press the meat into potting-pots1 pour over clarified butter1 and keep in a dry place4 ,the liquor that the hare was stewed in1 should be saved for hashes1 soups1 c4 c4 ,time4--,about #ba_/b hours to stew the hare4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,,broiled ,,hare 7a ,supper or ,luncheon ,dish74 #ajbi4 ,,ingredients4--,the leg and shoulders of a roast hare1 cayenne and salt to taste1 a little butter4 ,mode4--,cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare1 season them highly with salt and cayenne1 and broil them over a very clear fire for #e minutes4 ,dish them on a hot dish1 rub over them a little cold butter1 and send to table very quickly4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,,hashed ,,hare4 #ajcj4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold roast hare1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #b or #c allspice1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a onion1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #c tablespoonfuls of port wine1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup4 ,mode4--,cut the cold hare into neat slices1 and put the head1 bones1 and trimmings into a stewpan1 with #c_/d pint of water2 add the mace1 allspice1 seasoning1 onion1 and herbs1 and stew for nearly an hour1 and strain the gravy2 thicken it with butter and flour1 add the wine and ketchup1 and lay in the pieces of hare1 with any stuffing that may be left4 ,let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire1 and1 when it has simmered for about #e minutes1 serve1 and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,send red-currant jelly to table with it4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cold hare1 #f;d4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,,jugged ,,hare4 7,very ,good47 #ajca4 ,,ingredients4--#a hare1 #a-a_/b lb4 of gravy beef1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a onion1 #a lemon1 #f cloves2 pepper1 cayenne1 and salt to taste2 #a_/b pint of port wine4 ,mode4--,skin1 paunch1 and wash the hare1 cut it into pieces1 dredge them with flour1 and fry in boiling butter4 ,have ready #a-a_/b pint of gravy1 made from the above proportion of beef1 and thickened with a little flour4 ,put this into a jar2 add the pieces of fried hare1 an onion stuck with six cloves1 a lemon peeled and cut in half1 and a good seasoning of pepper1 cayenne1 and salt2 cover the jar down tightly1 put it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water1 and let it stew until the hare is quite tender1 taking care to keep the water boiling4 ,when nearly done1 pour in the wine1 and add a few forcemeat balls1 made by recipe ,no4 #dag3 these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few minutes before they are put to the gravy4 ,serve with red-currant jelly4 ,time1--#c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,if the hare is very old1 allow #d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #gs4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,,ii4 7,a ,quicker and more ,economical ,way47 #ajcb4 ,,ingredients4--#a hare1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 #b onions1 each stuck with #c cloves1 #f whole allspice1 #a_/b teaspoonful of black pepper1 a strip of lemon-peel1 thickening of butter and flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup1 #a_/d pint of port wine4 ,mode4--,wash the hare nicely1 cut it up into joints 7not too large71 and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe2 then put them into a stewpan with the herbs1 onions1 cloves1 allspice1 pepper1 and lemon-peel2 cover with hot water1 and when it boils1 carefully remove all the scum1 and let it simmer gently till tender1 which will be in about #a-c_/d hour1 or longer1 should the hare be very old4 ,take out the pieces of hare1 thicken the gravy with flour and butter1 add the ketchup and port wine1 let it boil for about #aj minutes1 strain it through a sieve over the hare1 and serve4 ,a few fried forcemeat balls should be added at the moment of serving1 or instead of frying them1 they may be stewed in the gravy1 about #aj minutes before the hare is wanted for table4 ,do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it4 ,time4--,altogether #b hours4 ,average cost1 #es4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to the end of ,february4 ,note4--,should there be any left1 rewarm it the next day by putting the hare1 c4 into a covered jar1 and placing this jar in a saucepan of boiling water3 this method prevents a great deal of waste4 ,,roast ,,landrail1 ,,or ,,corn-,,crake4 #ajcc4 ,,ingredients4--#c or #d birds1 butter1 fried bread crumbs4 ,illustration3 ,,landrails4 ,mode4--,pluck and draw the birds1 wipe them inside and out with damp cloths1 and truss them in the following manner3--,bring the head round under the wing1 and the thighs close to the sides2 pass a skewer through them and the body1 and keep the legs straight4 ,roast them before a clear fire1 keep them well basted1 and serve on fried bread crumbs1 with a tureen of brown gravy4 ,when liked1 bread-sauce may also be sent to table with them4 ,time4--#ab to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1--,seldom bought4 ,sufficient4--,allow--#a for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,august #abth to the middle of ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,landrail4 ,,the ,,landrail1 ,,or ,,corn-,,crake4--,this bird is migratory in its habits1 yet from its formation1 it seems ill adapted for long arial passages1 its wings being short1 and placed so forward out of the centre of gravity1 that it flies in an extremely heavy and embarrassed manner1 and with its legs hanging down4 ,when it alights1 it can hardly be sprung a second time1 as it runs very fast1 and seems to depend for its safety more on the swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings4 ,it makes its appearance in ,england about the same time as the quail1 that is1 in the months of ,april and ,may1 and frequents the same places4 ,its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes long enough to shelter it1 and it continues to be heard until the grass is cut4 ,the bird1 however1 is seldom seen1 for it constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage1 and runs so nimbly through it1 doubling and winding in every direction1 that it is difficult to get near it4 ,it leaves this island before the winter1 and repairs to other countries in search of its food1 which principally consists of slugs1 large numbers of which it destroys4 ,it is very common in ,ireland1 and1 whilst migrating to this country1 is seen in great numbers in the island of ,anglesea4 ,on its first arrival in ,england1 it is so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces2 before its departure1 however1 it has been known to exceed eight ounces1 and is then most delicious eating4 ,,to ,,dress ,a ,,leveret4 #ajcd4 ,,ingredients4--#b leverets1 butter1 flour4 ,mode4--,leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare1 but they do not require stuffing4 ,roast them before a clear fire1 and keep them well basted all the time they are cooking4 ,a few minutes before serving1 dredge them lightly with flour1 and froth them nicely4 ,serve with plain gravy in the dish1 and send to table red-currant jelly with them4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #ds4 each4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,august1 but cheapest in ,july and ,august4 ,,broiled ,,partridge 7a ,luncheon1 ,breakfast1 or ,supper ,dish74 #ajce4 ,,ingredients4--#c partridges1 salt and cayenne to taste1 a small piece of butter1 brown gravy or mushroom sauce4 ,mode4--,pluck1 draw1 and cut the partridges in half1 and wipe the inside thoroughly with a damp cloth4 ,season them with salt and cayenne1 broil them over a very clear fire1 and dish them on a hot dish2 rub a small piece of butter over each half1 and send them to table with brown gravy or mushroom sauce4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 a brace4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,september to the beginning of ,february4 ,,partridge ,,pie4 #ajcf4 ,,ingredients4--#c partridges1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley 7when obtainable1 a few mushrooms71 #c_/d lb4 of veal cutlet1 a slice of ham1 #a_/b pint of stock1 puff paste4 ,mode4--,line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet2 over that place a slice of ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,pluck1 draw1 and wipe the partridges2 cut off the legs at the first joint1 and season them inside with pepper1 salt1 minced parsley1 and a small piece of butter2 place them in the dish1 and pour over the stock2 line the edges of the dish with puff paste1 cover with the same1 brush it over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake for #c_/d to #a hour4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 a brace4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,september to the beginning of ,february4 ,note4--,should the partridges be very large1 split them in half2 they will then lie in the dish more compactly4 ,when at hand1 a few mushrooms should always be added4 ,,potted ,,partridge4 #ajcg4 ,,ingredients4--,partridges2 seasoning to taste of mace1 allspice white pepper1 and salt2 butter1 coarse paste4 ,mode4--,pluck and draw the birds1 and wipe them inside with a damp cloth4 ,pound well some mace1 allspice1 white pepper1 and salt2 mix together1 and rub every part of the partridges with this4 ,pack the birds as closely as possible in a baking-pan1 with plenty of butter over them1 and cover with a coarse flour and water crust4 ,tie a paper over this1 and bake for rather more than #a-a_/b hour2 let the birds get cold1 then cut them into pieces for keeping1 pack them closely into a large potting-pot1 and cover with clarified butter4 ,this should be kept in a cool dry place4 ,the butter used for potted things will answer for basting1 or for paste for meat pies4--,see coloured plate1 ,d#a4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,september to the beginning of ,february4 ,,salmi ,,de ,,perdrix1 or ,,hashed ,,partridges4 #ajch4 ,,ingredients4--#c young partridges1 #c shalots1 a slice of lean ham1 #a carrot1 #c or #d mushrooms1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b cloves1 #f whole peppers1 #c_/d pint of stock1 #a glass of sherry or ,madeira1 a small lump of sugar4 ,mode4--,after the partridges are plucked and drawn1 roast them rather underdone1 and cover them with paper1 as they should not be browned2 cut them into joints1 take off the skin from the wings1 legs1 and breasts2 put these into a stewpan1 cover them up1 and set by until the gravy is ready4 ,cut a slice of ham into small pieces1 and put them1 with the carrots sliced1 the shalots1 mushrooms1 herbs1 cloves1 and pepper1 into a stewpan2 fry them lightly in a little butter1 pour in the stock1 add the bones and trimming from the partridges1 and simmer for #a_/d hour4 ,strain the gravy1 let it cool1 and skim off every particle of fat2 put it to the legs1 wings1 and breasts1 add a glass of sherry or ,madeira and a small lump of sugar1 let all gradually warm through by the side of the fire1 and when on the point of boiling1 serve1 and garnish the dish with crotons4 ,the remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in this way1 although not so good as when the birds are in the first instance only half-roasted4 ,this recipe is equally suitable for pheasants1 moor-game1 c42 but care must be taken always to skin the joints4 ,time4--,altogether #a hour4 ,sufficient4--#b or #c partridges for an entre4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,september to the beginning of ,february4 ,,roast ,,partridge4 #ajci4 ,,ingredients4--,partridge2 butter4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose young birds1 with dark-coloured bills and yellowish legs1 and let them hang a few days1 or there will be no flavour to the flesh1 nor will it be tender4 ,the time they should be kept1 entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended1 as what some persons would consider delicious1 would be to others disgusting and offensive4 ,they may be trussed with or without the head1 the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable4 ,pluck1 draw1 and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out2 cut off the head1 leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back2 bring the legs close to the breast1 between it and the side-bones1 and pass a skewer through the pinions and the thick part of the thighs4 ,when the head is left on1 it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,partridge4 ,mode4--,when the bird is firmly and plumply trussed1 roast it before a nice bright fire2 keep it well basted1 and a few minutes before serving1 flour and froth it well4 ,dish it1 and serve with gravy and bread sauce1 and send to table hot and quickly4 ,a little of the gravy should be poured over the bird4--,see coloured plate1 ,d#a4 ,time4--#be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 is #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 a brace4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,september to the beginning of ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,partridges4 ,,the ,,partridge4--,this bird is to be found in nearly all the temperate countries of ,europe1 but is most abundant in the ,ukraine1 although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate1 whether hot or cold4 ,it was formerly very common in ,france1 and is considered a table luxury in ,england4 ,the instinct of this bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner1 for the preservation of its young4 ,i have seen it often1 says a very celebrated writer1 and an accurate observer of nature1 and once in particular1 ,i saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's solicitude to save its brood4 ,as ,i was hunting with a young pointer1 the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges2 the old bird cried1 fluttered1 and ran tumbling along just before the dog's nose1 till she had drawn him to a considerable distance1 when she took wing1 and flew still further off1 but not out of the field2 on this the dog returned to me1 near the place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass1 which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us1 settled just before the dog's nose again1 and by rolling and tumbling about1 drew off his attention from her young1 and thus preserved her brood a second time4 ,i have also seen1 when a kite has been hovering over a covey of young partridges1 the old birds fly up at the bird of prey1 screaming and fighting with all their might to preserve their brood4 ,partridges should be chosen young2 if old1 they are valueless4 ,the young ones are generally known by their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills4 ,,pheasant ,,cutlets4 #ajdj4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c pheasants1 egg and bread crumbs1 cayenne and salt to taste1 brown gravy4 ,mode4--,procure #c young pheasants that have been hung a few days2 pluck1 draw1 and wipe them inside2 cut them into joints2 remove the bones from the best of these2 and the backbones1 trimmings1 c41 put into a stewpan1 with a little stock1 herbs1 vegetables1 seasoning1 c41 to make the gravy4 ,flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape1 egg and bread crumb them1 broil them over a clear fire1 pile them high in the dish1 and pour under them the gravy made from the bones1 which should be strained1 flavoured1 and thickened4 ,one of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 to #cs4 each4 ,sufficient for #b entres4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,october to the beginning of ,february4 ,,roast ,,pheasant4 #ajda4 ,,ingredients4--,pheasant1 flour1 butter4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,old pheasants may be known by the length and sharpness of their spurs2 in young ones they are short and blunt4 ,the cock bird is generally reckoned the best1 except when the hen is with egg4 ,they should hang some time before they are dressed1 as1 if they are cooked fresh1 the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless4 ,after the bird is plucked and drawn1 wipe the inside with a damp cloth1 and truss it in the same manner as partridge1 ,no4 #ajci4 ,if the head is left on1 as shown in the engraving1 bring it round under the wing1 and fix it on to the point of the skewer4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,pheasant4 ,mode4--,roast it before a brisk fire1 keep it well basted1 and flour and froth it nicely4 ,serve with brown gravy1 a little of which should be poured round the bird1 and a tureen of bread sauce4 #b or #c of the pheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an ornament2 but the fashion is not much to be commended4--,see coloured plate1 ,f#a4 ,time4--#a_/b to #a hour1 according to the size4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 to #cs4 each4 ,sufficient1--#a for a dish4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,october to the beginning of ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pheasant4 ,,the ,,pheasant4--,this beautiful bird is said to have been discovered by the ,argonauts on the banks of the ,phasis1 near ,mount ,ararat1 in their expedition to ,colchis4 ,it is common1 however1 in almost all the southern parts of the ,european continent1 and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most woody counties of ,england4 ,it is very common in ,france2 indeed1 so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers4 ,although it has been domesticated1 this is not easily accomplished1 nor is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state4 ,mr4 ,ude says--,it is not often that pheasants are met with possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping1 as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept as long as they are in other countries4 ,the hens1 in general1 are the most delicate4 ,the cocks show their age by their spurs4 ,they are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from the bill1 which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed4 ,the flesh is white1 tender1 and has a good flavour1 if you keep it long enough2 if not1 it is not much different from that of a common fowl or hen4 ,,brillat ,,savarin',s ,,recipe ,,for ,,roast ,,pheasant1 a la ,sainte ,alliance4 #ajdb4 ,when the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked 7see ,no4 #ajda71 it should be plucked1 and not before4 ,the bird should then be stuffed in the following manner3--,take two snipes1 and draw them1 putting the bodies on one plate1 and the livers1 c41 on another4 ,take off the flesh1 and mince it finely with a little beef1 lard1 a few truffles1 pepper and salt to taste1 and stuff the pheasant carefully with this4 ,cut a slice of bread1 larger considerably than the bird1 and cover it with the liver1 c41 and a few truffles3 an anchovy and a little fresh butter added to these will do no harm4 ,put the bread1 c41 into the dripping-pan1 and1 when the bird is roasted1 place it on the preparation1 and surround it with ,florida oranges4 ,do not be uneasy1 ,savarin adds1 about your dinner2 for a pheasant served in this way is fit for beings better than men4 ,the pheasant itself is a very good bird2 and1 imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the truffle and snipe1 it becomes thrice better4 ,,broiled ,,pheasant 7a ,breakfast or ,luncheon ,dish74 #ajdc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pheasant1 a little lard1 egg and bread crumbs1 salt and cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the legs off at the first joint1 and the remainder of the bird into neat pieces2 put them into a fryingpan with a little lard1 and when browned on both sides1 and about half done1 take them out and drain them2 brush the pieces over with egg1 and sprinkle with bread crumbs with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt4 ,broil them over a moderate fire for about #aj minutes1 or rather longer1 and serve with mushroom-sauce1 sauce piquante1 or brown gravy1 in which a few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed4 ,time4--,altogether #a_/b hour4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from the #ast of ,october to the beginning of ,february4 ,,the ,,height ,,of ,,excellence ,,in ,a ,,pheasant4--,things edible have their degrees of excellence under various circumstances3 thus1 asparagus1 capers1 peas1 and partridges are best when young4 ,perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity3 let us say1 for example1 melons and nearly all fruits 7we must except1 perhaps1 the medlar71 with the majority of those animals whose flesh we eat4 ,but others1 again1 are not good until decomposition is about to set in2 and here we may mention particularly the snipe and the pheasant4 ,if the latter bird be eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed1 it then has no peculiarity of flavour2 a pullet would be more relished1 and a quail would surpass it in aroma4 ,kept1 however1 a proper length of time1--and this can be ascertained by a slight smell and change of colour1--then it becomes a highly1 flavoured dish1 occupying1 so to speak1 the middle distance between chicken and venison4 ,it is difficult to define any exact time to hang a pheasant2 but any one possessed of the instincts of gastronomical science1 can at once detect the right moment when a pheasant should be taken down1 in the same way as a good cook knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit1 or have a turn or two more4 ,,to ,,dress ,,plovers4 #ajdd4 ,,ingredients4--#c plovers1 butter1 flour1 toasted bread4 ,choosing and ,trussing4--,choose those that feel hard at the vent1 as that shows their fatness4 ,there are three sorts1--the grey1 green1 and bastard plover1 or lapwing4 ,they will keep good for some time1 but if very stale1 the feet will be very dry4 ,plovers are scarcely fit for anything but roasting2 they are1 however1 sometimes stewed1 or made into a ragot1 but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended4 ,mode4--,pluck off the feathers1 wipe the outside of the birds with a damp cloth1 and do not draw them2 truss with the head under the wing1 put them down to a clear fire1 and lay slices of moistened toast in the dripping-pan1 to catch the trail4 ,keep them well basted1 dredge them lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done1 and let them be nicely frothed4 ,dish them on the toasts1 over which the trail should be equally spread4 ,pour round the toast a little good gravy1 and send some to table in a tureen4 ,time4--#aj minutes to #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 the brace1 if plentiful4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable4--,in perfection from the beginning of ,september to the end of ,january4 ,,the ,,plover4--,there are two species of this bird1 the grey and the green1 the former being larger than the other1 and somewhat less than the woodcock4 ,it has generally been classed with those birds which chiefly live in the water2 but it would seem only to seek its food there1 for many of the species breed upon the loftiest mountains4 ,immense flights of these birds are to be seen in the ,hebrides1 and other parts of ,scotland2 and1 in the winter1 large numbers are sent to the ,london market1 which is sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very cheap4 ,previous to dressing1 they are kept till they have a game flavour2 and although their flesh is a favourite with many1 it is not universally relished4 ,the green is preferred to the grey1 but both are inferior to the woodcock4 ,their eggs are esteemed as a great delicacy4 ,birds of this kind are migratory4 ,they arrive in ,england in ,april1 live with us all the spring and summer1 and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by getting together in flocks4 ,it is supposed that they then retire to ,spain1 and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country abounds4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,plover4 ,,to ,,dress ,,the ,,ptarmigan4 #ajde4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c birds2 butter1 flour1 fried bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,the ptarmigan1 or white grouse1 when young and tender1 are exceedingly fine eating1 and should be kept as long as possible1 to be good4 ,pluck1 draw1 and truss them in the same manner as grouse1 ,no4 #ajbe1 and roast them before a brisk fire4 ,flour and froth them nicely1 and serve on buttered toast1 with a tureen of brown gravy4 ,bread sauce1 when liked1 may be sent to table with them1 and fried bread crumbs substituted for the toasted bread4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from the beginning of ,february to the end of ,april4 ,,the ,,ptarmigan1 ,,or ,,white ,,grouse4--,this bird is nearly the same size as red grouse1 and is fond of lofty situations1 where it braves the severest weather1 and is found in most parts of ,europe1 as well as in ,greenland4 ,at ,hudson's ,bay they appear in such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently taken at once in a net4 ,as they are as tame as chickens1 this is done without difficulty4 ,buffon says that the ,ptarmigan avoids the solar heat1 and prefers the frosts of the summits of the mountains2 for1 as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains1 it ascends till it gains the top1 where it makes a hole1 and burrows in the snow4 ,in winter1 it flies in flocks1 and feeds on the wild vegetation of the hills1 which imparts to its flesh a bitter1 but not altogether an unpalatable taste4 ,it is dark-coloured1 and has something of the flavour of the hare1 and is greatly relished1 and much sought after by some sportsmen4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,ptarmigan4 ,,to ,,dress ,,quails4 #ajdf4 ,,ingredients4--,quails1 butter1 toast4 ,mode4--,these birds keep good several days1 and should be roasted without drawing4 ,truss them in the same manner as woodcocks1 ,no4 #ajfb2 roast them before a clear fire1 keep them well basted1 and serve on toast4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,sufficient #b for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,december4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,quail4 ,,the ,,quail4--,quails are almost universally diffused over ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa4 ,being birds of passage1 they are seen in immense flocks1 traversing the ,mediterranean ,sea from ,europe to ,africa1 in the autumn1 and returning again in the spring1 frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of the ,archipelago1 which1 with their vast numbers1 they almost completely cover4 ,on the western coasts of the kingdom of ,naples1 they have appeared in such prodigious numbers1 that1 within the compass of four or five miles1 as many as a hundred thousand have been taken in a day4 ,from these circumstances1 says a writer on natural history1 it appears highly probable that the quails which supplied the ,israelites with food during their journey through the wilderness1 were sent thither1 on their passage to the north1 by a wind from the south-west1 sweeping over ,egypt and ,ethiopia towards the shores of the ,red ,sea4 ,in ,england they are not very numerous1 although they breed in it2 and many of them are said to remain throughout the year1 changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country for the seacoast4 ,,to ,,dress ,,snipes4 #ajdg4 ,,ingredients4--,snipes1 butter1 flour1 toast4 ,mode4--,these1 like woodcocks1 should be dressed without being drawn4 ,pluck1 and wipe them outside1 and truss them with the head under the wing1 having previously skinned that and the neck4 ,twist the legs at the first joint1 press the feet upon the thighs1 and pass a skewer through these and the body4 ,place four on a skewer1 tie them on to the jack or spit1 and roast before a clear fire for about #a_/d hour4 ,put some pieces of buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails2 flour and froth the birds nicely1 dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on them1 and pour round1 but not over them1 a little good brown gravy4 ,they should be sent to table very hot and expeditiously1 or they will not be worth eating4--,see coloured plate ,m#a4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,snipe4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 the brace4 ,sufficient1--#d for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,note4--,ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,snipe4 ,,the ,,snipe4--,this is a migratory bird1 and is generally distributed over ,europe4 ,it is found in most parts of ,england1 in the high as well as the low lands1 depending much on the weather4 ,in very wet seasons it resorts to the hills1 but at other times frequents marshes1 where it can penetrate the earth with its bill1 hunting for worms1 which form its principal food4 ,in the ,hebrides and the ,orkneys snipes are plentiful1 and they are fattest in frosty weather4 ,in the breeding season the snipe changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter4 ,the male will keep on wing for an hour together1 mounting like a lark1 and uttering a shrill piping noise2 then1 with a bleating sound1 not unlike that made by an old goat1 it will descend with great velocity1 especially if the female be sitting in her nest1 from which it will not wander far4 ,,roast ,,teal4 #ajdh4 ,,ingredients4--,teal1 butter1 a little flour4 ,mode4--,choose fat plump birds1 after the frost has set in1 as they are generally better flavoured2 truss them in the same manner as wild duck1 ,no4 #ajbb2 roast them before a brisk fire1 and keep them well basted4 ,serve with brown or orange gravy1 water-cresses1 and a cut lemon4 ,the remains of teal make excellent hash4 ,time4--,from #i to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 each2 but seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,february4 ,,roast ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 #ajdi4 ,,ingredients4--,venison1 coarse flour-and-water paste1 a little flour4 ,mode4--,choose a haunch with clear1 bright1 and thick fat1 and the cleft of the hoof smooth and close2 the greater quantity of fat there is1 the better quality will the meat be4 ,as many people object to venison when it has too much haut got1 ascertain how long it has been kept1 by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone2 when this is withdrawn1 its sweetness can be judged of4 ,with care and attention1 it will keep good a fortnight1 unless the weather is very mild4 ,keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the least damp remains1 and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper1 as a preventative against the fly4 ,when required for use1 wash it in warm water1 and dry it well with a cloth2 butter a sheet of white paper1 put it over the fat1 lay a coarse paste1 about #a_/b inch in thickness1 over this1 and then a sheet or two of strong paper4 ,tie the whole firmly on to the haunch with twine1 and put the joint down to a strong close fire2 baste the venison immediately1 to prevent the paper and string from burning1 and continue this operation1 without intermission1 the whole of the time it is cooking4 ,about #bj minutes before it is done1 carefully remove the paste and paper1 dredge the joint with flour1 and baste well with butter until it is nicely frothed1 and of a nice pale-brown colour2 garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper1 and serve with a good1 strong1 but unflavoured gravy1 in a tureen1 and currant jelly2 or melt the jelly with a little port wine1 and serve that also in a tureen4 ,as the principal object in roasting venison is to preserve the fat1 the above is the best mode of doing so where expense is not objected to2 but1 in ordinary cases1 the paste may be dispensed with1 and a double paper placed over the roast instead3 it will not require so long cooking without the paste4 ,do not omit to send very hot plates to table1 as the venison fat so soon freezes3 to be thoroughly enjoyed by epicures1 it should be eaten on hot-water plates4 ,the neck and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 ,time4--,a large haunch of buck venison1 with the paste1 #d to #e hours2 haunch of doe venison1 #c-a_/d to #c-c_/d hours4 ,allow less time without the paste4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #ah persons4 ,seasonable4--,buck venison in greatest perfection from ,june to ,michaelmas2 doe venison from ,november to the end of ,january4 ,,the ,,deer4--,this active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild and woody regions4 ,in their contentions1 both with each other and the rest of the brute creation1 these animals not only use their horns1 but strike very furiously with their fore feet4 ,some of the species are employed as beasts of draught1 whilst the flesh of the whole is wholesome1 and that of some of the kinds1 under the name of venison1 is considered very delicious4 ,persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized3 thus the stag is called1 the first year1 a calf1 or hind-calf2 the second1 a knobber2 the third1 a brock2 the fourth1 a staggard2 the fifth1 a stag2 and the sixth1 a hart4 ,the female is1 the first year1 called a calf2 the second1 a hearse2 and the third1 a hind4 ,in ,britain1 the stag has become scarcer than it formerly was2 but1 in the ,highlands of ,scotland1 herds of four or five hundred may still be seen1 ranging over the vast mountains of the north2 and some of the stags of a great size4 ,in former times1 the great feudal chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns1 assembling some thousands of their clans1 who drove the deer into the toils1 or to such stations as were occupied by their chiefs4 ,as this sport1 however1 was occasionally used as a means for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of concocting rebellion1 an act was passed prohibitory of such assemblages4 ,in the ,waverley of ,sir ,walter ,scott1 a deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described4 ,,venison4--,this is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer1 and is esteemed as very delicious4 ,different species of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates1 and are in several instances invaluable to man4 ,this is especially the case with the ,laplander1 whose reindeer constitutes a large proportion of his wealth4 ,there-- ,the reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play1 ,and safely o'er ,odin's steep precipice stray1 ,whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly1 ,and howl to the moon as she glides through the sky4 ,in that country it is the substitute for the horse1 the cow1 the goat1 and the sheep4 ,from its milk is produced cheese2 from its skin1 clothing2 from its tendons1 bowstrings and thread2 from its horns1 glue2 from its bones1 spoons2 and its flesh furnishes food4 ,in ,england we have the stag1 an animal of great beauty1 and much admired4 ,he is a native of many parts of ,europe1 and is supposed to have been originally introduced into this country from ,france4 ,about a century back he was to be found wild in some of the rough and mountainous parts of ,wales1 as well as in the forests of ,exmoor1 in ,devonshire1 and the woods on the banks of the ,tamar4 ,in the middle ages the deer formed food for the not over abstemious monks1 as represented by ,friar ,tuck's larder1 in the admirable fiction of ,ivanhoe2 and at a later period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the ingenious ,william ,shakspeare to ,london1 to become a common player1 and the greatest dramatist that ever lived4 ,,hashed ,,venison4 #ajej4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of roast venison1 its own or mutton gravy1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,cut the meat from the bones in neat slices1 and1 if there is sufficient of its own gravy left1 put the meat into this1 as it is preferable to any other4 ,should there not be enough1 put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan1 with about a pint of mutton gravy2 let them stew gently for an hour1 and strain the gravy4 ,put a little flour and butter into the stewpan1 keep stirring until brown1 then add the strained gravy1 and give it a boil up2 skim and strain again1 and1 when a little cool1 put in the slices of venison4 ,place the stewpan by the side of the fire1 and1 when on the point of simmering1 serve3 do not allow it to boil1 or the meat will be hard4 ,send red-currant jelly to table with it4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a-a_/b hour4 ,seasonable4--,buck venison1 from ,june to ,michaelmas2 doe venison1 from ,november to the end of ,january4 ,note4--,a small quantity of ,harvey's sauce1 ketchup1 or port wine1 may be added to enrich the gravy3 these ingredients must1 however1 be used very sparingly1 or they will overpower the flavour of the venison4 ,illustration3 ,,fallow-,,deer 7,,buck74 ,,fallow-,,deer 7,,doe74 ,,the ,,fallow-,,deer4--,this is the domestic or park deer2 and no two animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag and it1 and yet no two animals keep more distinct1 or avoid each other with a more inveterate animosity4 ,they never herd or intermix together1 and consequently never give rise to an intermediate race2 it is even rare1 unless they have been transported thither1 to find fellow-deer in a country where stags are numerous4 ,he is very easily tamed1 and feeds upon many things which the stag refuses3 he also browzes closer than the stag1 and preserves his venison better4 ,the doe produces one fawn1 sometimes two1 but rarely three4 ,in short1 they resemble the stag in all his natural habits1 and the greatest difference between them is the duration of their lives3 the stag1 it is said1 lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years1 and the fallow-deer does not live more than twenty4 ,as they are smaller than the stag1 it is probable that their growth is sooner completed4 ,,stewed ,,venison4 #ajea4 ,,ingredients4--,a shoulder of venison1 a few slices of mutton fat1 #b glasses of port wine1 pepper and allspice to taste1 #a-a_/b pint of weak stock or gravy1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole pepper1 #a_/b teaspoonful of whole allspice4 ,mode4--,hang the venison till tender2 take out the bone1 flatten the meat with a rolling-pin1 and place over it a few slices of mutton fat1 which have been previously soaked for #b or #c hours in port wine2 sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper1 roll the meat up1 and bind and tie it securely4 ,put it into a stewpan with the bone and the above proportion of weak stock or gravy1 whole allspice1 black pepper1 and port wine2 cover the lid down closely1 and simmer1 very gently1 from #c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,when quite tender1 take off the tape1 and dish the meat2 strain the gravy over it1 and send it to table with red-currant jelly4 ,unless the joint is very fat1 the above is the best mode of cooking it4 ,time4--#c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #aj or #ab persons4 ,seasonable4--,buck venison1 from ,june to ,michaelmas2 doe venison1 from ,november to the end of ,january4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,roebuck4 ,,the ,,roebuck4--,this is the ,certuscapreolus1 or common roe1 and is of a reddish-brown colour4 ,it is an inhabitant of ,asia1 as well as of ,europe4 ,it has great grace in its movements1 and stands about two feet seven inches high1 and has a length of about three feet nine4 ,the extent of its horns is from six to eight inches4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,stag4 ,,the ,,hind4 ,,the ,,stag4--,the stag1 or hart1 is the male of the red deer1 and the hind is the female4 ,he is much larger than the fallow-deer1 and his age is indicated by his horns1 which are round instead of being palmated1 like those of the fallow-deer4 ,during the first year he has no horns1 but a horny excrescence1 which is short and rough1 and covered with a thin hairy skin4 ,the next year1 the horns are single and straight2 and in the third they have two antlers1 three the fourth1 four the fifth1 and five the sixth year2 although this number is not always certain1 for sometimes they are more1 and often less4 ,after the sixth year1 the antlers do not always increase2 and1 although in number they may amount to six or seven on each side1 yet the animal's age is then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the thickness of the branch which sustains them1 than by their variety4 ,large as these horns seem1 however1 they are shed every year1 and their place supplied by new ones4 ,this usually takes place in the spring4 ,when the old horns have fallen off1 the new ones do not make their appearance immediately2 but the bones of the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum1 or skin1 which enwraps the bones of all animals4 ,after a short time1 however1 the skin begins to swell1 and to form a sort of tumour4 ,from this1 by-and-by1 rising from the head1 shoot forth the antlers from each side2 and1 in a short time1 in proportion as the animal is in condition1 the entire horns are completed4 ,the solidity of the extremities1 however1 is not perfect until the horns have arrived at their full growth4 ,old stags usually shed their horns first1 which generally happens towards the latter end of ,february or the beginning of ,march4 ,such as are between five and six years old shed them about the middle or latter end of ,march2 those still younger in the month of ,april2 and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of ,may4 ,these rules1 though generally true1 are subject to variations2 for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the horns4--,the ,,hind has no horns1 and is less fitted for being hunted than the male4 ,she takes the greatest care of her young1 and secretes them in the most obscure thickets1 lest they become a prey to their numerous enemies4 ,all the rapacious family of the cat kind1 with the wolf1 the dog1 the eagle1 and the falcon1 are continually endeavouring to find her retreat1 whilst the stag himself is the foe of his own offspring4 ,when she has young1 therefore1 it would seem that the courage of the male is transferred to the female1 for she defends them with the most resolute bravery4 ,if pursued by the hunter1 she will fly before the hounds for half the day1 and then return to her young1 whose life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own4 ,illustration3 ,,eland 7,,bull74 ,,eland 7,,cow74 ,,the ,,new ,,venison4--,the deer population of our splendid ,english parks was1 until a few years since1 limited to two species1 the fallow and the red4 ,but as the fallow-deer itself was an acclimated animal1 of comparatively recent introduction1 it came to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park in ,england have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of deer and antelopes1 to adorn the hills1 dales1 ferny brakes1 and rich pastures of his domain8 ,the temperate regions of the whole world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant1 valuable either for their individual beauty1 or for their availability to gastronomic purposes4 ,during the last four or live years a few spirited ,english noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in their parks1 and have obtained such a decided success1 that it may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a course which will eventually give to ,england's rural scenery a new element of beauty1 and to ,english tables a fresh viand of the choicest character4 ,a practical solution of this interesting question was made by ,viscount ,hill1 at ,hawkestone ,park1 ,salop1 in ,january1 #ahji4 ,on that occasion a magnificent eland1 an acclimated scion of the species whose native home is the ,south ,african wilderness1 was killed for the table4 ,the noble beast was thus described3--,he weighed #a1agf lbs4 as he dropped2 huge as a short-horn1 but with bone not half the size2 active as a deer1 stately in all his paces1 perfect in form1 bright in colour1 with a vast dewlap1 and strong sculptured horn4 ,this eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side1 where he dwelt with his mates and their progeny1 all ,english-born1 like himself4 ,three pairs of the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the picturesque elopes throughout the day1 and to return to their home at pleasure4 ,here1 during winter1 they are assisted with roots and hay1 but in summer they have nothing but the pasture of the park2 so that1 in point of expense1 they cost no more than cattle of the best description4 ,travellers and sportsmen say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his flesh by any ruminant in ,south ,africa2 that it grows to an enormous size1 and lays on fat with as great facility as a true short-horn2 while in texture and flavour it is infinitely superior4 ,the lean is remarkably fine1 the fat firm and delicate4 ,it was tried in every fashion1--braised brisket1 roasted ribs1 broiled steaks1 filet saut1 boiled aitchbone1 c41--and in all1 gave evidence of the fact1 that a new meat of surpassing value had been added to the products of the ,english park4 ,when we hear such a gratifying account of the eland1 it is pleasing to record that ,lord ,hastings has a herd of the ,canadian wapiti1 a herd of ,indian nylghaus1 and another of the small ,indian hog-deer2 that the ,earl of ,ducie has been successful in breeding the magnificent ,persian deer4 ,the eland was first acclimated in ,england by the late ,earl of ,derby1 between the years #ahce-ahea1 at his menagerie at ,knowsley4 ,on his death1 in #ahea1 he bequeathed to the ,zoological ,society his breed of elands1 consisting of two males and three females4 ,here the animals have been treated with the greatest success1 and from the year #ahec to the present time1 the females have regularly reproduced1 without the loss of a single calf4 ,,roast ,,widgeon4 #ajeb4 ,,ingredients4--,widgeons1 a little flour1 butter4 ,mode4--,these are trussed in the same manner as wild duck1 ,no4 #ajbb1 but must not be kept so long before they are dressed4 ,put them down to a brisk fire2 flour1 and baste them continually with butter1 and1 when browned and nicely frothed1 send them to table hot and quickly4 ,serve with brown gravy1 or orange gravy1 ,no4 #dhh1 and a cut lemon4 ,time4--#a_/d hour2 if liked well done1 #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 each2 but seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,woodcock4 ,,roast ,,woodcock4 #ajec4 ,,ingredients4--,woodcocks2 butter1 flour1 toast4 ,mode4--,woodcocks should not be drawn1 as the trails are1 by epicures1 considered a great delicacy4 ,pluck1 and wipe them well outside2 truss them with the legs close to the body1 and the feet pressing upon the thighs2 skin the neck and head1 and bring the beak round under the wing4 ,place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails1 allowing a piece of toast for each bird4 ,roast before a clear fire from #ae to #be minutes2 keep them well basted1 and flour and froth them nicely4 ,when done1 dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them1 and pour round a very little gravy2 send some more to table in a tureen4 ,these are most delicious birds when well cooked1 but they should not be kept too long3 when the feathers drop1 or easily come out1 they are fit for table4--,see coloured plate1 ,i #a4 ,time4---,when liked underdone1 #ae to #bj minutes2 if liked well done1 allow an extra #e minutes4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#b for a dish4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,february4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,woodcock4 ,,the ,,woodcock4--,this bird being migratory in its habits1 has1 consequently1 no settled habitation2 it cannot be considered as the property of any one1 and is1 therefore1 not game by law4 ,it breeds in high northern latitudes1 and the time of its appearance and disappearance in ,sweden coincides exactly with that of its arrival in and return from ,great ,britain4 ,on the coast of ,suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been accurately observed4 ,in the first week of ,october it makes its appearance in small numbers1 but in ,november and ,december it appears in larger numbers1 and always after sunset1 and most gregariously4 ,in the same manner as woodcocks take their leave of us1 they quit ,france1 ,germany1 and ,italy1 making the northern and colder climates their summer rendezvous4 ,they visit ,burgundy in the latter part of ,october1 but continue there only a few weeks1 the country being hard1 and unable to supply them with such sustenance as they require4 ,in the winter1 they are found as far south as ,smyrna and ,aleppo1 and1 during the same season1 in ,barbary1 where the ,africans name them the ass of the partridge4 ,it has been asserted that they have been seen as far south as ,egypt1 which is the most remote region to which they can be traced on that side of the eastern world2 on the other side1 they are common in ,japan4 ,those which resort to the countries of the ,levant are supposed to come from the mountains of ,armenia1 or the deserts of ,tartary or ,siberia4 ,the flesh of the woodcock is held in high estimation2 hence the bird is eagerly sought after by the sportsman4 ,,game ,,carving4 ,,blackcock4 ,illustration3 ,,blackcock4 #ajed4 ,skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the guests at a dinner-table2 for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes1 than larger and more robust pices de rsistance4 ,as described at recipe ,no4 #ajai1 this bird is variously served with or without the head on2 and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the head as shown in the woodcut1 yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve it without4 ,the carving is not difficult1 but should be elegantly and deftly done4 ,slices from the breast1 cut in the direction of the dotted line from #b to #a1 should be taken off1 the merrythought displaced and the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from #c to #d1 and following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl1 ,no4 #ajjj1 reserving the thigh1 which is considered a great delicacy1 for the most honoured guests1 some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird4 ,,wild ,,duck4 ,illustration3 ,,wild ,,duck4 #ajee4 ,as game is almost universally served as a dainty1 and not as a dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite1 these dishes are not usually cut up entirely1 but only those parts are served of each1 which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest4 ,of wild-fowl1 the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating1 and slices are cut from this1 in the direction indicated by the lines1 from #a to #b2 if necessary1 the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the knife from #c to #d1 and by generally following the directions described for carving boiled fowl1 ,no4 #ajjj4 ,,roast ,,hare4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,hare4 #ajef4 ,the ,grand ,carver of olden times1 a functionary of no ordinary dignity1 was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate1 for his skill and grace had an opportunity of display4 ,diners la ,russe may possibly1 erewhile1 save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the youthful squire2 but1 until side-tables become universal1 or till we see the office of grand carver once more instituted1 it will be well for all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish1 which1 if not the most elegant in appearance1 is a very general favourite4 ,the hare1 having its head to the left1 as shown in the woodcut1 should be first served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone1 in the direction of the lines from #c to #d4 ,after these prime parts are disposed of1 the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line indicated by the figures #e to #f4 ,the shoulders will then be taken off by passing the knife round from #g to #h4 ,the back of the hare should now be divided by cutting quite through its spine1 as shown by the line #a to #b1 taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the back may be readily penetrated4 ,it is the usual plan not to serve any bone in helping hare2 and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate4 ,in large establishments1 and where men-cooks are kept1 it is often the case that the backbone of the hare1 especially in old animals1 is taken out1 and then the process of carving is1 of course1 considerably facilitated4 ,a great point to be remembered in connection with carving hare is1 that plenty of gravy should accompany each helping2 otherwise this dish1 which is naturally dry1 will lose half its flavour1 and so become a failure4 ,stuffing is also served with it2 and the ears1 which should be nicely crisp1 and the brains of the hare1 are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs4 ,,partridges4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,partridges4 #ajeg4 ,there are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird4 ,the more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone of the bird1 and cut it quite through1 thus dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts1 in the same manner as carving a pigeon1 ,no4 #ajjc4 ,another plan is to cut it into three pieces2 viz41 by severing a small wing and leg on either side from the body1 by following the line #a to #b in the upper woodcut2 thus making #b helpings1 when the breast will remain for a third plate4 ,the most elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs1 and then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line #a to #b3 this plan will give #d or more small helpings4 ,a little bread-sauce should be served to each guest4 ,,grouse4 ,illustration #ajeh4 ,,grouse may be carved in the way first described in carving partridge4 ,the backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many1 and this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured4 ,,pheasant4 ,illustration3 ,,roast ,,pheasant4 #ajei4 ,fixing the fork in the breast1 let the carver cut slices from it in the direction of the lines from #b to #a3 these are the prime pieces4 ,if there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve1 then let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in carving boiled fowl1 ,no4 #ajjj1 the point where the wing joins the neckbone being carefully found4 ,the merrythought will come off in the same way as that of a fowl4 ,the most valued parts are the same as those which are most considered in a fowl4 ,,snipe4 ,illustration3 ,,snipe4 #ajfj4 ,one of these small but delicious birds may be given1 whole1 to a gentleman2 but1 in helping a lady1 it will be better to cut them quite through the centre1 from #a to #b1 completely dividing them into equal and like portions1 and put only one half on the plate4 ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 ,illustration3 ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison4 #ajfa4 ,here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise his skill upon1 and1 what will be pleasant for many to know1 there is but little difficulty in the performance4 ,an incision being made completely down to the bone1 in the direction of the line #a to #b1 the gravy will then be able easily to flow2 when slices1 not too thick1 should be cut along the haunch1 as indicated by the line #d to #c2 that end of the joint marked #c having been turned towards the carver1 so that he may have a more complete command over the joint4 ,although some epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to others1 yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut above and below the line4 ,it should be borne in mind to serve each guest with a portion of fat2 and the most expeditious carver will be the best carver1 as1 like mutton1 venison soon begins to chill1 when it loses much of its charm4 ,,woodcock4 ,illustration3 ,,woodcock4 #ajfb4 ,this bird1 like a partridge1 may be carved by cutting it exactly into two like portions1 or made into three helpings1 as described in carving partridge 7,no4 #ajeg74 ,the backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock1 and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy4 ,this bird is served in the manner advised by ,brillat ,savarin1 in connection with the pheasant1 viz41 on toast which has received its drippings whilst roasting2 and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany each plate4 ,,landrail4 #ajfc4 ,,landrail1 being trussed like ,snipe1 with the exception of its being drawn1 may be carved in the same manner4--,see ,no4 #ajfj4 ,,ptarmigan4 #ajfd4 ,,ptarmigan1 being of much the same size1 and trussed in the same manner1 as the red-bird1 may be carved in the manner described in ,partridge and ,grouse carving1 ,nos4 #ajeg and #ajeh4 ,,quails4 #ajfe4 ,,quails1 being trussed and served like ,woodcock1 may be similarly carved4--,see ,no4 #ajfb4 ,,plovers4 #ajff4 ,,plovers may be carved like ,quails or ,woodcock1 being trussed and served in the same way as those birds4--,see ,no4 #ajee4 ,,teal4 #ajfg4 ,,teal1 being of the same character as ,widgeon and ,wild ,duck1 may be treated1 in carving1 in the same style4 ,,widgeon4 #ajfh4 ,,widgeon may be carved in the same way as described in regard to ,wild ,duck1 at ,no4 #ajee4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,vegetables4 ,strange there should be found ,who1 self-imprison'd in their proud saloons1 ,renounce the odours of the open field ,for the unscented fictions of the loom2 ,who1 satisfied with only pencilled scenes1 ,prefer to the performance of a ,god1 ,th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand6 ,lovely1 indeed1 the mimic works of art1 ,but ,nature's works far lovelier4--,,cowper4 #ajfi4 ,,the ,,animal ,,and ,,vegetable ,,kingdoms1 says ,hogg1 in his ,natural ,history of the ,vegetable ,kingdom1 may be aptly compared to the primary colours of the prismatic spectrum1 which are so gradually and intimately blended1 that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where the other begins4 ,if we had to deal with yellow and blue only1 the eye would easily distinguish the one from the other2 but when the two are blended1 and form green1 we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow begins4 ,and so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms4 ,if our powers of observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants1 if there were only mammals1 birds1 reptiles1 fishes1 and insects in the one1 and trees1 shrubs1 and herbs in the other1 we should then be able with facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms2 but as we descend the scale of each1 and arrive at the lowest forms of animals and plants1 we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure1 sometimes a mere cell1 whose organization1 modes of development and reproduction1 are so anomalous1 and partake so much of the character of both1 that we cannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals4 #ajgj4 ,,whilst ,,it ,,is ,,difficult ,,to ,,determine where the animal begins and the vegetable ends1 it is as difficult to account for many of the singularities by which numbers of plants are characterized4 ,this1 however1 can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise1 when we recollect that1 so far as it is at present known1 the vegetable kingdom is composed of upwards of #ib1jjj species of plants4 ,of this amazing number the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiest kinds4 ,these1 indeed1 may be considered as the very creators of the soil3 they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions1 many of them commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the barest rocks1 and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be supplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain4 ,when they have exhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them1 they pass into a state of decay1 and become changed into a very fine mould1 which1 in the active spontaneity of nature1 immediately begins to produce other species1 which in their turn become food for various mosses1 and also rot4 ,this process of growth and decay1 being1 from time to time1 continued1 by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for the maintenance of larger plants1 which also die and decay1 and so increase the soil1 until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak1 or even the weight of a tropical forest4 ,to create soil amongst rocks1 however1 must not be considered as the only end of the lichen2 different kinds of it minister to the elegant arts1 in the form of beautiful dyes2 thus the lichen rocella is used to communicate to silk and wool1 various shades of purple and crimson1 which greatly enhance the value of these materials4 ,this species is chiefly imported from the ,canary ,islands1 and1 when scarce1 as an article of commerce has brought as much as #ajjj per ton4 #ajga4 ,,in ,,the ,,vicinity ,,of ,,lichens1 ,,the ,,musci1 ,,or ,,mosses1 are generally to be found4 ,indeed1 wherever vegetation can be sustained1 there they are1 affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables1 and1 by their spongy texture1 retaining a moisture which preserves other plants from the withering drought of summer4 ,but even in winter we find them enlivening1 by their verdure1 the cold bosom of ,nature4 ,we see them abounding in our pastures and our woods1 attaching themselves to the living1 and still more abundantly to the dead1 trunks and branches of trees4 ,in marshy places they also abound1 and become the medium of their conversion into fruitful fields4 ,this is exemplified by the manner in which peat-mosses are formed3 on the surface of these we find them in a state of great life and vigour2 immediately below we discover them1 more or less1 in a state of decomposition2 and1 still deeper1 we find their stems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat4 ,thus are extensive tracts formed1 ultimately to be brought into a state of cultivation1 and rendered subservient to the wants of man4 #ajgb4 ,,when ,,nature ,,has ,,found ,a ,,soil1 her next care is to perfect the growth of her seeds1 and then to disperse them4 ,whilst the seed remains confined in its capsule1 it cannot answer its purpose2 hence1 when it is sufficiently ripe1 the pericardium opens1 and lets it out4 ,what must strike every observer with surprise is1 how nuts and shells1 which we can hardly crack with our teeth1 or even with a hammer1 will divide of themselves1 and make way for the little tender sprout which proceeds from the kernel4 ,there are instances1 it is said1 such as in the ,touch-me-not 7impatiens71 and the ,cuckoo-flower 7cardamine71 in which the seed-vessels1 by an elastic jerk at the moment of their explosion1 cast the seeds to a distance4 ,we are all aware1 however1 that many seeds--those of the most composite flowers1 as of the thistle and dandelion--are endowed with1 what have not been inappropriately called1 wings4 ,these consist of a beautiful silk-looking down1 by which they are enabled to float in the air1 and to be transported1 sometimes1 to considerable distances from the parent plant that produced them4 ,the swelling of this downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by which the seed is enabled to overcome the resistance of its coats1 and to force for itself a passage by which it escapes from its little prison-house4 ,illustration3 ,,beeton',s ,book of ,,household ,,management ,,edited ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,isabella ,,beeton ,illustration3 ,,the ,,free1 ,,fair ,,homes ,,of ,,england4 #ajgc4 ,,birds1 ,,as ,,well ,,as ,,quadrupeds1 are likewise the means of dispersing the seeds of plants1 and placing them in situations where they ultimately grow4 ,amongst the latter is the squirrel1 which is an extensive planter of oaks2 nay1 it may be regarded as having1 in some measure1 been one of the creators of the ,british navy4 ,we have read of a gentleman who was walking one day in some woods belonging to the ,duke of ,beaufort1 near ,troy ,house1 in ,monmouthshire1 when his attention was arrested by a squirrel1 sitting very composedly upon the ground4 ,he stopped to observe its motions1 when1 in a short time1 the little animal suddenly quitted its position1 and darted to the top of the tree beneath which it had been sitting4 ,in an instant it returned with an acorn in its mouth1 and with its paws began to burrow in the earth4 ,after digging a small hole1 it therein deposited an acorn1 which it hastily covered1 and then darted up the tree again4 ,in a moment it was down with another1 which it buried in the same manner2 and so continued its labour1 gathering and burying1 as long as the gentleman had patience to watch it4 ,this industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to lay up a store of provision for the winter2 and as it is probable that its memory is not sufficiently retentive to enable it to recollect all the spots in which it deposits its acorns1 it no doubt makes some slips in the course of the season1 and loses some of them4 ,these few spring up1 and are1 in time1 destined to supply the place of the parent tree4 ,thus may the sons of ,britain1 in some degree1 consider themselves to be indebted to the industry and defective memory of this little animal for the production of some of those wooden walls which have1 for centuries1 been the national pride1 and which have so long braved the battle and the breeze on the broad bosom of the great deep1 in every quarter of the civilized globe4 ,as with the squirrel1 so with jays and pies1 which plant among the grass and moss1 horse-beans1 and probably forget where they have secreted them4 ,mr4 ,white1 the naturalist1 says1 that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the autumn2 and he attributes the sowing of them to birds4 ,bees1 he also observes1 are much the best setters of cucumbers4 ,if they do not happen to take kindly to the frames1 the best way is to tempt them by a little honey put on the male and female bloom4 ,when they are once induced to haunt the frames1 they set all the fruit1 and will hover with impatience round the lights in a morning till the glasses are opened4 #ajgd4 ,some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of ,monmouthshire may be now in a fair way to become1 at the end of some centuries1 venerable trees2 for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strong principle of life with which they are endued4 ,in ,major ,rooke's ,sketch of the forest of ,sherwood we find it stated that1 on some timber cut down in ,berkland and ,bilhaugh1 letters were found stamped in the bodies of the trees1 denoting the king's reign in which they were marked4 ,the bark appears to have been cut off1 and then the letters to have been cut in1 and the next year's wood to have grown over them without adhering to where the bark had been cut out4 ,the ciphers were found to be of ,james ,i41 ,william and ,mary1 and one of ,king ,john4 ,one of the ciphers of ,james was about one foot within the tree1 and one foot from the centre4 ,it was cut down in #aghf4 ,the tree must have been two feet in diameter1 or two yards in circumference1 when the mark was cut4 ,a tree of this size is generally estimated at #abj years' growth2 which number being subtracted from the middle year of the reign of ,james1 would carry the year back to #adib1 which would be about the period of its being planted4 ,the tree with the cipher of ,william and ,mary displayed its mark about nine inches within the tree1 and three feet three inches from the centre4 ,this tree was felled in #aghf4 ,the cipher of ,john was eighteen inches within the tree1 and rather more than a foot from the centre4 ,the middle year of the reign of that monarch was #abjg4 ,by subtracting from this #abj1 the number of years requisite for a tree's growth to arrive at the diameter of two feet1 the date of its being planted would seem to have been #ajhe1 or about twenty years after the ,conquest4 ,illustration3 ,,cellular ,,development4 #ajge4 ,considering the great endurance of these trees1 we are necessarily led to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive at such strength and maturity2 and whether it may be considered as a humiliation we will not determine1 but1 with all the ingenious mechanical contrivances of man1 we are still unable to define the limits of the animal and vegetable kingdoms4 ,plants have been described by naturalists1 who would determine the limits of the two kingdoms1 as organized living bodies1 without volition or locomotion1 destitute of a mouth or intestinal cavity1 which1 when detached from their place of growth1 die1 and1 in decay1 ferment1 but do not putrefy1 and which1 on being subjected to analysis1 furnish an excess of carbon and no nitrogen4 ,the powers of chemistry1 and of the microscope1 however1 instead of confirming these views1 tend more and more to show that a still closer affinity exists between plants and animals2 for it is now ascertained that nitrogen1 which was believed to be present only in animals1 enters largely into the composition of plants also4 ,when the microscope is brought to aid our powers of observation1 we find that there are organized bodies belonging to the vegetable kingdom which possess very evident powers of locomotion1 and which change about in so very remarkable a manner1 that no other cause than that of volition can be assigned to it4 ,thus it would seem that1 in this particular at least1 some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal life2 and when we consider the manner in which they are supplied with nourishment1 and perform the functions of their existence1 the resemblance would seem still closer4 ,if1 for example1 we take a thin transverse slice of the stem of any plant1 or a slice cut across its stem1 and immerse it in a little pure water1 and place it under a microscope1 we will find that it consists principally of cells1 more or less regular1 and resembling those of a honeycomb or a network of cobweb4 ,the size of these varies in different plants1 as it does in different parts of the same plant1 and they are sometimes so minute as to require a million to cover a square inch of surface4 ,this singular structure1 besides containing water and air1 is the repository or storehouse of various secretions4 ,through it1 the sap1 when produced1 is diffused sideways through the plant1 and by it numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its cells4 ,the forms of the cells are various2 they are also subject to various transformations4 ,sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end to end1 and1 by the absorption of the transverse partitions1 form a continuous tube1 as in the sap-vessels of plants1 or in muscular and nervous fibre2 and when cells are thus woven together1 they are called cellular tissue1 which1 in the human body1 forms a fine net-like membrane1 enveloping or connecting most of its structures4 ,in pulpy fruits1 the cells may be easily separated one from the other2 and within the cells are smaller cells1 commonly known as pulp4 ,among the cell-contents of some plants are beautiful crystals1 called raphides4 ,the term is derived from ,greek3 rhaphis a needle1 on account of the resemblance of the crystal to a needle4 ,they are composed of the phosphate and oxalate of lime2 but there is great difference of opinion as to their use in the economy of the plant1 and one of the ,french philosophers endeavoured to prove that crystals are the possible transition of the inorganic to organic matter4 ,the differences1 however1 between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of organic life known1 viz41 a simple reproductive cell1 are so manifold and striking1 that the attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic matter passes into organic1 is almost totally regarded as futile4 ,in a layer of an onion1 a fig1 a section of garden rhubarb1 in some species of aloe1 in the bark of many trees1 and in portions of the cuticle of the medicinal squill1 bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be found4 ,some of them are as large as #a-djth of an inch1 others are as small as the #a-ajjjth4 ,they are found in all parts of the plant1--in the stem1 bark1 leaves1 stipules1 petals1 fruit1 roots1 and even in the pollen1 with some few exceptions1 and they are always situated in the interior of cells4 ,some plants1 as many of the cactus tribe1 are made up almost entirely of these needle-crystals2 in some instances1 every cell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals2 in others1 the whole interior is full of them1 rendering the plant so exceedingly brittle1 that the least touch will occasion a fracture2 so much so1 that some specimens of ,cactus senilis1 said to be a thousand years old1 which were sent a few years since to ,kew1 from ,south ,america1 were obliged to be packed in cotton1 with all the care of the most delicate jewellery1 to preserve them during transport4 ,illustration3 ,,siliceous ,,cuticle ,,from ,,under-,,side ,,of ,,leaf ,,of ,,deutzia ,,scabra4 ,illustration3 ,,siliceous ,,cuticle ,,of ,,grass4 #ajgf4 ,besides the cellular tissue1 there is what is called a vascular system1 which consists of another set of small vessels4 ,if1 for example1 we1 early in the spring1 cut a branch transversely1 we will perceive the sap oozing out from numerous points over the whole of the divided surface1 except on that part occupied by the pith and the bark2 and if a twig1 on which the leaves are already unfolded1 be cut from the tree1 and placed with its cut end in a watery solution of ,brazil-wood1 the colouring matter will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the top of the twig4 ,in both these cases1 a close examination with a powerful microscope1 will discover the sap perspiring from the divided portion of the stem1 and the colouring matter rising through real tubes to the top of the twig3 these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant4 ,if1 however1 we examine a transverse section of the vine1 or of any other tree1 at a later period of the season1 we find that the wood is apparently dry1 whilst the bark1 particularly that part next the wood1 is swelled with fluid4 ,this is contained in vessels of a different kind from those in which the sap rises4 ,they are found in the bark only in trees1 and may be called returning vessels1 from their carrying the sap downwards after its preparation in the leaf4 ,it is believed that the passage of the sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similar to that of the blood in man1 from the regular contraction and expansion of the vessels2 but1 on account of their extreme minuteness1 it is almost an impossibility to be certain upon this point4 ,numerous observations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldom exceeds a #bijth part of a line1 or a #c1jjjth part of an inch4 ,leuwenhoeck reckoned #bj1jjj vessels in a morsel of oak about one nineteenth of an inch square4 #ajgg4 ,in the vascular system of a plant1 we at once see the great analogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system2 but neither it1 nor the cellular tissue combined1 is all that is required to perfect the production of a vegetable4 ,there is1 besides1 a tracheal system1 which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes1 designed for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant4 ,there are also fibres1 which consist of collections of these cells and vessels closely united together4 ,these form the root and the stem4 ,if we attempt to cut them transversely1 we meet with difficulty1 because we have to force our way across the tubes1 and break them2 but if we slit the wood lengthwise1 the vessels are separated without breaking4 ,the layers of wood1 which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cut transversely1 consist of different zones of fibres1 each the produce of one year's growth1 and separated by a coat of cellular tissue1 without which they could not be well distinguished4 ,besides all these1 there is the cuticle1 which extends over every part of the plant1 and covers the bark with three distinct coats4 ,the liber1 or inner bark1 is said to be formed of hollow tubes1 which convey the sap downwards to increase the solid diameter of the tree4 #ajgh4 ,,the ,,root ,,and ,,the ,,stem ,,now ,,demand ,a ,,slight ,,notice4 ,the former is designed1 not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil1 but also to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance of nourishment3 it is therefore furnished with pores1 or spongioles1 as they are called1 from their resemblance to a sponge1 to suck up whatever comes within its reach4 ,it is found in a variety of forms1 and hence its adaptation to a great diversity of soils and circumstances4 ,we have heard of a willow-tree being dug up and its head planted where its roots were1 and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches4 ,in course of time1 the roots became branches1 and the branches roots1 or rather1 roots rose from the branches beneath the ground1 and branches shot from the roots above4 ,some roots last one year1 others two1 and others1 like the shrubs and trees which they produce1 have an indefinite period of existence2 but they all consist of a collection of fibres1 composed of vascular and cellular tissue1 without tracheae1 or breathing-vessels4 ,the stem is the grand distributor of the nourishment taken up by the roots1 to the several parts of the plant4 ,the seat of its vitality is said to be in the point or spot called the neck1 which separates the stem from the root4 ,if the root of a young plant be cut off1 it will shoot out afresh2 if even the stem be taken away1 it will be renewed2 but if this part be injured1 the plant will assuredly die4 #ajgi4 ,,in ,,accordance ,,with ,,the ,,plan ,,of ,,this ,,work1 special notices of culinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they are spoken of2 but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it as our conviction1 that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamental plant into our island1 ought justly to be considered1 to a large extent1 a benefactor to the country4 ,no one can calculate the benefits which may spring from this very vegetable1 after its qualities have become thoroughly known4 ,if viewed in no other light1 it is pleasing to consider it as bestowing upon us a share of the blessings of other climates1 and enabling us to participate in the luxury which a more genial sun has produced4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,boiled ,,artichokes4 #ajhj4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 a piece of soda the size of a shilling2 artichokes4 ,illustration3 ,,artichokes4 ,mode4--,wash the artichokes well in several waters2 see that no insects remain about them1 and trim away the leaves at the bottom4 ,cut off the stems and put them into boiling water1 to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportion4 ,keep the saucepan uncovered1 and let them boil quickly until tender2 ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them1 or by trying if the leaves can be easily removed4 ,take them out1 let them drain for a minute or two1 and serve in a napkin1 or with a little white sauce poured over4 ,a tureen of melted butter should accompany them4 ,this vegetable1 unlike any other1 is considered better for being gathered two or three days2 but they must be well soaked and washed previous to dressing4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes1 after the water boils4 ,sufficient1--a dish of #e or #f for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to the beginning of ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,cardoon ,,artichoke4 ,,the ,,compositae1 ,,or ,,composite ,,flowers4--,this family is so extensive1 as to contain nearly a twelfth part of the whole of the vegetable kingdom4 ,it embraces about #i1jjj species1 distributed over almost every country2 and new discoveries are constantly being made and added to the number4 ,towards the poles their numbers diminish1 and slightly1 also1 towards the equator2 but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical islands1 and in the tracts of continent not far from the sea-shore4 ,among esculent vegetables1 the ,lettuce1 ,salsify1 ,scorzonera1 ,cardoon1 and ,artichoke belong to the family4 ,,fried ,,artichokes4 7,entremets1 or ,small ,dish1 to be served with the ,second ,course47 #ajha4 ,,ingredients4--#e or #f artichokes1 salt and water3 for the batter1--#a_/d lb4 of flour1 a little salt1 the yolk of #a egg1 milk4 ,mode4--,trim and boil the artichokes by recipe ,no4 #ajhj1 and rub them over with lemon-juice1 to keep them white4 ,when they are quite tender1 take them up1 remove the chokes1 and divide the bottoms2 dip each piece into batter1 fry them in hot lard or dripping1 and garnish the dish with crisped parsley4 ,serve with plain melted butter4 ,time4--#bj minutes to boil the artichokes1 #e to #g minutes to fry them4 ,sufficient1--#e or #f for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to the beginning of ,september4 ,a ,,french ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking ,,artichokes4 #ajhb4 ,,ingredients4--#e or #f artichokes2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper1 #a bunch of savoury herbs1 #b oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,cut the ends of the leaves1 as also the stems2 put the artichokes into boiling water1 with the above proportion of salt1 pepper1 herbs1 and butter2 let them boil quickly until tender1 keeping the lid of the saucepan off1 and when the leaves come out easily1 they are cooked enough4 ,to keep them a beautiful green1 put a large piece of cinder into a muslin bag1 and let it boil with them4 ,serve with plain melted butter4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes4 ,sufficient1--#e or #f sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to the beginning of ,september4 ,,artichokes ,a ,l',,italienne4 #ajhc4 ,,ingredients4--#d or #f artichokes1 salt and butter1 about #a_/b pint of good gravy4 ,mode4--,trim and cut the artichokes into quarters1 and boil them until tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter4 ,when done1 drain them well1 and lay them all round the dish1 with the leaves outside4 ,have ready some good gravy1 highly flavoured with mushrooms2 reduce it until quite thick1 and pour it round the artichokes1 and serve4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes to boil the artichokes4 ,sufficient for one side-dish4 ,seasonable from ,july to the beginning of ,september4 ,,constituent ,,properties ,,of ,,the ,,artichoke4--,according to the analysis of ,braconnet1 the constituent elements of an artichoke are1--starch #cj1 albumen #aj1 uncrystallizable sugar #adh1 gum #ab1 fixed oil #a1 woody fibre #ab1 inorganic matter #bg1 and water #ggj4 ,,boiled ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 #ajhd4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 artichokes4 ,mode4--,wash1 peel1 and shape the artichokes in a round or oval form1 and put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them1 salted in the above proportion4 ,let them boil gently until tender2 take them up1 drain them1 and serve them in a napkin1 or plain1 whichever mode is preferred2 send to table with them a tureen of melted butter or cream sauce1 a little of which may be poured over the artichokes when they are not served in a napkin4 ,illustration3 ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient1--#aj for a dish for #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,june4 ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,jerusalem ,,artichoke4--,this being a tuberous-rooted plant1 with leafy stems from four to six feet high1 it is alleged that its tops will afford as much fodder per acre as a crop of oats1 or more1 and its roots half as many tubers as an ordinary crop of potatoes4 ,the tubers1 being abundant in the market-gardens1 are to be had at little more than the price of potatoes4 ,the fibres of the stems may be separated by maceration1 and manufactured into cordage or cloth2 and this is said to be done in some parts of the north and west of ,france1 as about ,hagenau1 where this plant1 on the poor sandy soils1 is an object of field culture4 ,,mashed ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes4 #ajhe4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a gallon of water allow #a oz4 of salt2 #ae or #af artichokes1 #a oz4 butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender2 drain and press the water from them1 and beat them up with a fork4 ,when thoroughly mashed and free from lumps1 put them into a saucepan with the butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt2 keep stirring over the fire until the artichokes are quite hot1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,june4 ,,jerusalem ,,artichokes ,,with ,,white ,,sauce4 7,entremets1 or to be served with the ,second ,course as a ,side-dish47 #ajhf4 ,,ingredients4--#ab to #ae artichokes1 #ab to #ae ,brussels sprouts1 #a_/b pint of white sauce1 ,no4 #ech4 ,mode4--,peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear2 cut a piece off the bottom of each1 that they may stand upright in the dish1 and boil them in salt and water until tender4 ,have ready #a_/b pint of white sauce1 made by recipe ,no4 #ech2 dish the artichokes1 pour over them the sauce1 and place between each a fine ,brussels sprout3 these should be boiled separately1 and not with the artichokes4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,june4 ,,the ,,jerusalem ,,artichoke4--,this plant is well known1 being1 for its tubers1 cultivated not only as a garden vegetable1 but also as an agricultural crop4 ,by many it is much esteemed as an esculent1 when cooked in various ways2 and the domesticated animals eat both the fresh foliage1 and the tubers with great relish4 ,by some1 they are not only considered nourishing1 but even fattening4 ,,boiled ,,asparagus4 #ajhg4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 asparagus4 ,illustration3 ,,asparagus ,,on ,,toast4 ,,asparagus ,,tongs4 ,mode4--,asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is cut1 although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks into cold water2 yet1 to be good1 like every other vegetable1 it cannot be cooked too fresh4 ,scrape the white part of the stems1 beginning from the head1 and throw them into cold water2 then tie them into bundles of about #bj each1 keeping the heads all one way1 and cut the stalks evenly1 that they may all be the same length2 put them into boiling water1 with salt in the above proportion2 keep them boiling quickly until tender1 with the saucepan uncovered4 ,when the asparagus is done1 dish it upon toast1 which should be dipped in the water it was cooked in1 and leave the white ends outwards each war1 with the points meeting in the middle4 ,serve with a tureen of melted butter4 ,time4--#ae to #ah minutes after the water boils4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #bs4 #f;d4 the #ajj heads4 ,sufficient4--,allow about #ej heads for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable4--,may be had1 forced1 from ,january but cheapest in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,illustration3 ,,asparagus4 ,,asparagus4--,this plant belongs to the variously-featured family of the order ,liliaceae1 which1 in the temperate regions of both hemispheres1 are most abundant1 and1 between the tropics1 gigantic in size and arborescent in form4 ,asparagus is a native of ,great ,britain1 and is found on various parts of the seacoast1 and in the fens of ,lincolnshire4 ,at ,kynarve ,cove1 in ,cornwall1 there is an island called ,asparagus ,island1 from the abundance in which it is there found4 ,the uses to which the young shoots are applied1 and the manure in which they are cultivated in order to bring them to the highest state of excellence1 have been a study with many kitchen-gardeners4 ,,asparagus ,,peas4 7,entremets1 or to be served as a ,side-dish with the ,second ,course47 #ajhh4 ,,ingredients4--#ajj heads of asparagus1 #b oz4 of butter1 a small bunch of parsley1 #b or #c green onions1 flour1 #a lump of sugar1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 salt4 ,mode4--,carefully scrape the asparagus1 cut it into pieces of an equal size1 avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough1 and throw them into cold water4 ,then boil the asparagus in salt and water until three-parts done2 take it out1 drain1 and place it on a cloth to dry the moisture away from it4 ,put it into a stewpan with the butter1 parsley1 and onions1 and shake over a brisk fire for #aj minutes4 ,dredge in a little flour1 add the sugar1 and moisten with boiling water4 ,when boiled a short time and reduced1 take out the parsley and onions1 thicken with the yolks of #b eggs beaten with the cream2 add a seasoning of salt1 and1 when the whole is on the point of simmering1 serve4 ,make the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 a pint4 ,seasonable in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,,medicinal ,,uses ,,of ,,asparagus4--,this plant not only acts as a wholesome and nutritious vegetable1 but also as a diuretic1 aperient1 and deobstruent4 ,the chemical analysis of its juice discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable principle1 called asparagin1 albumen1 mannite1 malic acid1 and some salts4 ,thours says1 the cellular tissue contains a substance similar to sage4 ,the berries are capable of undergoing vinous fermentation1 and affording alcohol by distillation4 ,in their unripe state they possess the same properties as the roots1 and probably in a much higher degree4 ,,asparagus ,,pudding4 7,a delicious ,dish1 to be served with the ,second ,course47 #ajhi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of asparagus peas1 #d eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a tablespoonful of very finely minced ham1 #a oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 milk4 ,mode4--,cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus1 about the size of peas2 put them into a basin with the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and the flour1 ham1 butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,mix all these ingredients well together1 and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter2 put it into a pint buttered mould1 tie it down tightly with a floured cloth1 place it in boiling water1 and let it boil for #b hours2 turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish1 and pour plain melted butter round1 but not over1 the pudding4 ,green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner1 substituting peas for the asparagus4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per pint4 ,seasonable in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,,boiled ,,french ,,beans4 #ajij4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 a very small piece of soda4 ,illustration3 ,scarlet ,runner4 ,mode4--,this vegetable should always be eaten young1 as1 when allowed to grow too long1 it tastes stringy and tough when cooked4 ,cut off the heads and tails1 and a thin strip on each side of the beans1 to remove the strings4 ,then divide each bean into #d or #f pieces1 according to size1 cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction1 and1 as they are cut1 put them into cold water1 with a small quantity of salt dissolved in it4 ,have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 with salt and soda in the above proportion2 put in the beans1 keep them boiling quickly1 with the lid uncovered1 and be careful that they do not get smoked4 ,when tender1 which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan1 take them up1 throw them into a colander2 and when drained1 dish and serve with plain melted butter4 ,when very young1 beans are sometimes served whole3 when they are thus dressed1 their colour and flavour are much better preserved2 but the more general way of dressing them is to cut them into thin strips4 ,time4--,very young beans1 #aj to #ab minutes2 moderate size1 #ae to #bj minutes1 after the water boils4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 #d;d4 a peck2 but1 when forced1 very expensive4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a_/b peck for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,july to the end of ,september2 but may be had1 forced1 from ,february to the beginning of ,june4 ,,french ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking ,,french ,,beans4 #ajia4 ,,ingredients4--,a quart of ,french beans1 #c oz4 of fresh butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe1 and when tender1 put them into a stewpan1 and shake over the fire1 to dry away the moisture from the beans4 ,when quite dry and hot1 add the butter1 pepper1 salt1 and lemon-juice2 keep moving the stewpan1 without using a spoon1 as that would break the beans2 and when the butter is melted1 and all is thoroughly hot1 serve4 ,if the butter should not mix well1 add a tablespoonful of gravy1 and serve very quickly4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour to boil the beans2 #aj minutes to shake them over the fire4 ,average cost1 in full season1 about #as4 #d;d4 a peck4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from the middle of ,july to the end of ,september4 ,,boiled ,,broad ,,or ,,windsor ,,beans4 #ajib4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 beans4 ,illustration3 ,,broad ,,bean4 ,mode4--,this is a favourite vegetable with many persons1 but to be nice1 should be young and freshly gathered4 ,after shelling the beans1 put them into boiling water1 salted in the above proportion1 and let them boil rapidly until tender4 ,drain them well in a colander2 dish1 and serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter4 ,boiled bacon should always accompany this vegetable1 but the beans should be cooked separately4 ,it is usually served with the beans laid round1 and the parsley and butter in a tureen4 ,beans also make an excellent garnish to a ham1 and when used for this purpose1 if very old1 should have their skins removed4 ,time4--,very young beans1 #ae minutes2 when of a moderate size1 #bj to #be minutes1 or longer4 ,average cost1 unshelled1 #f;d4 per peck4 ,sufficient4--,allow one peck for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august4 ,,nutritive ,,properties ,,of ,,the ,,bean4--,the produce of beans in meal is1 like that of peas1 more in proportion to the grain than in any of the cereal grasses4 ,a bushel of beans is supposed to yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats2 and a bushel of peas eighteen pounds more1 or1 according to some1 twenty pounds4 ,a thousand parts of bean flour were found by ,sir ,,ii4 ,davy to yield #egj parts of nutritive matter1 of which #dbf were mucilage or starch1 #ajc gluten1 and #da extract1 or matter rendered insoluble during the process4 ,,broad ,,beans ,a ,,la ,,poulette4 #ajic4 ,,ingredients4--#b pints of broad beans1 #a_/b pint of stock or broth1 a small bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 a small lump of sugar1 the yolk of #a egg1 #a_/d pint of cream1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,procure some young and freshly-gathered beans1 and shell sufficient to make #b pints2 boil them1 as in the preceding recipe1 until nearly done2 then drain them and put them into a stewpan1 with the stock1 finely-minced herbs1 and sugar4 ,stew the beans until perfectly tender1 and the liquor has dried away a little2 then beat up the yolk of an egg with the cream1 add this to the beans1 let the whole get thoroughly hot1 and when on the point of simmering1 serve4 ,should the beans be very large1 the skin should be removed previously to boiling them4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the beans1 #ae minutes to stew them in the stock4 ,average cost1 unshelled1 #f;d4 per peck4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august4 ,,origin ,,and ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,bean4--,this valuable plant is said to be a native of ,egypt1 but1 like other plants which have been domesticated1 its origin is uncertain4 ,it has been cultivated in ,europe and ,asia from time immemorial1 and has been long known in ,britain4 ,its varieties may be included under two general heads1--the white1 or garden beans1 and the grey1 or field beans1 of the former1 sown in the fields1 the mazagan and long-pod are almost the only sorts2 of the latter1 those known as the horse-bean1 the small or ticks1 and the prolific of ,heligoland1 are the principal sorts4 ,new varieties are procured in the same manner as in other plants4 ,,boiled ,,beetroot4 #ajid4 ,,ingredients1--,beetroot2 boiling water4 ,mode4--,when large1 young1 and juicy1 this vegetable makes a very excellent addition to winter salads1 and may easily be converted into an economical and quickly-made pickle4 7,see ,no4 #cfi47 ,beetroot is more frequently served cold than hot3 when the latter mode is preferred1 melted butter should be sent to table with it4 ,it may also be stewed with button onions1 or boiled and served with roasted onions4 ,wash the beets thoroughly2 but do not prick or break the skin before they are cooked1 or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling4 ,put them into boiling water1 and let them boil until tender1 keeping them well covered4 ,if to be served hot1 remove the peel quickly1 cut the beetroot into thick slices1 and send to table melted butter4 ,for salads1 pickle1 c41 let the root cool1 then peel1 and cut it into slices4 ,time4--,small beetroot1 #a-a_/b to #b hours2 large1 #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #b;d4 each4 ,seasonable4--,may be had at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,beetroot4 ,,beetroot4--,the geographical distribution of the order ,saltworts 7,salxolaceae71 to which beetroot belongs1 is most common in extra-tropical and temperate regions1 where they are common weeds1 frequenting waste places1 among rubbish1 and on marshes by the seashore4 ,in the tropics they are rare4 ,they are characterized by the large quantities of mucilage1 sugar1 starch1 and alkaline salts which are found in them4 ,many of them are used as potherbs1 and some are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties4 ,the root of garden or red beet is exceedingly wholesome and nutritious1 and ,dr4 ,lyon ,playfair has recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down this root with an equal quantity of flour4 ,he says that the average quality of flour contains about #ab per cent4 of azotized principles adapted for the formation of flesh1 and the average quality of beet contains about #b per cent4 of the same materials4 ,,boiled ,,brocoli4 #ajie4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 brocoli4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,brocoli4 ,mode4--,strip off the dead outside leaves1 and the inside ones cut off level with the flower2 cut off the stalk close at the bottom1 and put the brocoli into cold salt and water1 with the heads downwards4 ,when they have remained in this for about #c_/d hour1 and they are perfectly free from insects1 put them into a saucepan of boiling water1 salted in the above proportion1 and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk fire1 with the saucepan uncovered4 ,take them up with a slice the moment they are done2 drain them well1 and serve with a tureen of melted butter1 a little of which should be poured over the brocoli4 ,if left in the water after it is done1 it will break1 its colour will be spoiled1 and its crispness gone4 ,time4--,small brocoli1 #aj to #ae minutes2 large one1 #bj to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 each4 ,sufficient1--#b for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,march2 plentiful in ,february and ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,brocoli4 ,,the ,,kohl-,,rabi1 ,,or ,,turnip-,,cabbage4--,this variety presents a singular development1 inasmuch as the stem swells out like a large turnip on the surface of the ground1 the leaves shooting from it all round1 and the top being surmounted by a cluster of leaves issuing from it4 ,although not generally grown as a garden vegetable1 if used when young and tender1 it is wholesome1 nutritious1 and very palatable4 ,,boiled ,,brussels ,,sprouts4 #ajif4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 a very small piece of soda4 ,mode4--,clean the sprouts from insects1 nicely wash them1 and pick off any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides2 put them into a saucepan of boiling water1 with salt and soda in the above proportion2 keep the pan uncovered1 and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire until tender2 drain1 dish1 and serve with a tureen of melted butter1 or with a matre d'htel sauce poured over them4 ,another mode of serving is1 when they are dished1 to stir in about #a-a_/b oz4 of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,they must1 however1 be sent to table very quickly1 as1 being so very small1 this vegetable soon cools4 ,where the cook is very expeditious1 this vegetable1 when cooked1 may be arranged on the dish in the form of a pineapple1 and1 so served1 has a very pretty appearance4 ,time4--,from #i to #ab minutes after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 per peck4 ,sufficient4--,allow between #dj and #ej for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,savoys ,,and ,,brussels ,,sprouts4--,when the ,green ,kale1 or ,borecole1 has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement1 it assumes the headed or hearting character1 with blistered leaves2 it is then known by the name of ,savoys and ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,another of its headed forms1 but with smooth glaucous leaves1 is the cultivated ,cabbage of our gardens 7the ,borecole oleracea capitula of science72 and all its varieties of green1 red1 dwarf1 tall1 early1 late1 round1 conical1 flat1 and all the forms into which it is possible to put it4 ,,to ,,boil ,,young ,,greens ,,or ,,sprouts4 #ajig4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 a very small piece of soda4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels ,,sprouts4 ,mode4--,pick away all the dead leaves1 and wash the greens well in cold water2 drain them in a colander1 and put them into fast-boiling water1 with salt and soda in the above proportion4 ,keep them boiling quickly1 with the lid uncovered1 until tender2 and the moment they are done1 take them up1 or their colour will be spoiled2 when well drained1 serve4 ,the great art in cooking greens properly1 and to have them a good colour1 is to put them into plenty of fast-boiling water1 to let them boil very quickly1 and to take them up the moment they become tender4 ,time4--,brocoli sprouts1 #aj to #ab minutes2 young greens1 #aj to #ab minutes2 sprouts1 #ab minutes1 after the water boils4 ,seasonable4--,sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year4 ,,green ,,kale1 ,,or ,,borecole4--,when ,colewort1 or ,wild ,cabbage1 is brought into a state of cultivation1 its character becomes greatly improved1 although it still retains the loose open leaves1 and in this form it is called ,green ,kale1 or ,borecole4 ,the scientific name is ,borecole oleracea acephala1 and of it there are many varieties1 both as regards the form and colour of the leaves1 as well as the height which the plants attain4 ,we may observe1 that among them1 are included the ,thousand-headed1 and the ,cow or ,tree ,cabbage4 ,,boiled ,,cabbage4 #ajih4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 a very small piece of soda4 ,mode4--,pick off all the dead outside leaves1 cut off as much of the stalk as possible1 and cut the cabbages across twice1 at the stalk end2 if they should be very large1 quarter them4 ,wash them well in cold water1 place them in a colander1 and drain2 then put them into plenty of fast-boiling water1 to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions4 ,stir them down once or twice in the water1 keep the pan uncovered1 and let them boil quickly until tender4 ,the instant they are done1 take them up into a colander1 place a plate over them1 let them thoroughly drain1 dish1 and serve4 ,time4--,large cabbages1 or savoys1 #a_/c to #c_/d hour1 young summer cabbage1 #aj to #ab minutes1 after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 each in full season4 ,sufficient1--#b large ones for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable4--,cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time4 ,,the ,,cabbage ,,tribe3 ,,their ,,origin4--,of all the tribes of the ,cruciferae this is by far the most important4 ,its scientific name is ,brassiceae1 and it contains a collection of plants which1 both in themselves and their products1 occupy a prominent position in agriculture1 commerce1 and domestic economy4 ,on the cliffs of ,dover1 and in many places on the coasts of ,dorsetshire1 ,cornwall1 and ,yorkshire1 there grows a wild plant1 with variously-indented1 much-waved1 and loose spreading leaves1 of a sea-green colour1 and large yellow flowers4 ,in spring1 the leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants1 who1 after boiling them in two waters1 to remove the saltness1 use them as a vegetable along with their meat4 ,this is the ,brassica oleracea of science1 the ,wild ,cabbage1 or ,colewort1 from which have originated all the varieties of ,cabbage1 ,cauliflower1 ,greens1 and ,brocoli4 ,,stewed ,,red ,,cabbage4 #ajii4 ,,ingredients4--#a red cabbage1 a small slice of ham1 #a_/b oz4 of fresh butter1 #a pint of weak stock or broth1 #a gill of vinegar1 salt and pepper to taste1 #a tablespoonful of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,cut the cabbage into very thin slices1 put it into a stewpan1 with the ham cut in dice1 the butter1 #a_/b pint of stock1 and the vinegar2 cover the pan closely1 and let it stew for #a hour4 ,when it is very tender1 add the remainder of the stock1 a seasoning of salt and pepper1 and the pounded sugar2 mix all well together1 stir over the fire until nearly all the liquor is dried away1 and serve4 ,fried sausages are usually sent to table with this dish3 they should be laid round and on the cabbage1 as a garnish4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,,the ,,wild ,,cabbage1 ,,or ,,colewort4--,this plant1 as it is found on the sea-cliffs of ,england1 presents us with the origin of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form4 ,in this state it is the true ,collet1 or ,colewort1 although the name is now applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart4 ,,boiled ,,carrots4 #aajj4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 carrots4 ,mode4--,cut off the green tops1 wash and scrape the carrots1 and should there be any black specks1 remove them4 ,if very large1 cut them in halves1 divide them lengthwise into four pieces1 and put them into boiling water1 salted in the above proportion2 let them boil until tender1 which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them3 dish1 and serve very hot4 ,this vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to boiled beef4 ,when thus served1 it is usually boiled with the beef2 a few carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish1 and the remainder sent to table in a vegetable-dish4 ,young carrots do not require nearly so much boiling1 nor should they be divided3 these make a nice addition to stewed veal1 c4 ,time4--,large carrots1 #a-c_/d to #b-a_/d hours2 young ones1 about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #h;d1 per bunch of #ah4 ,sufficient1--#d large carrots for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,young carrots from ,april to ,june1 old ones at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,carrots4 ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,carrot4--,in its wild state1 this vegetable is found plentifully in ,britain1 both in cultivated lands and by waysides1 and is known by the name of birds-nest1 from its umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup1 like a birds-nest4 ,in this state its root is whitish1 slender1 and hard1 with an acrid1 disagreeable taste1 and a strong aromatic smell1 and was formerly used as an aperient4 ,when cultivated1 it is reddish1 thick1 fleshy1 with a pleasant odour1 and a peculiar1 sweet1 mucilaginous taste4 ,the carrot is said by naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter1 and1 generally speaking1 is somewhat difficult of digestion4 ,,to ,,dress ,,carrots ,,in ,,the ,,german ,,way4 #aaja4 ,,ingredients4--#h large carrots1 #c oz4 of butter1 salt to taste1 a very little grated nutmeg1 #a tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley1 #a dessertspoonful of minced onion1 rather more than #a pint of weak stock or broth1 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,mode4--,wash and scrape the carrots1 and cut them into rings of about #a_/d inch in thickness4 ,put the butter into a stewpan2 when it is melted1 lay in the carrots1 with salt1 nutmeg1 parsley1 and onion in the above proportions4 ,toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes1 and when the carrots are well saturated with the butter1 pour in the stock1 and simmer gently until they are nearly tender4 ,then put into another stewpan a small piece of butter2 dredge in about a tablespoonful of flour2 stir this over the fire1 and when of a nice brown colour1 add the liquor that the carrots have been boiling in2 let this just boil up1 pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan1 and let them finish simmering until quite tender4 ,serve very hot4 ,this vegetable1 dressed as above1 is a favourite accompaniment of roast pork1 sausages1 c4 c4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #h;d4 per bunch of #ah4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable4--,young carrots from ,april to ,june1 old ones at any time4 ,,constituents ,,of ,,the ,,carrot4--,these are crystallizable and uncrystallizable sugar1 a little starch1 extractive1 gluten1 albumen1 volatile oil1 vegetable jelly1 or pectin1 saline matter1 malic acid1 and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red neuter principle1 without odour or taste1 called carotin4 ,this vegetable jelly1 or pectin1 so named from its singular property of gelatinizing1 is considered by some as another form of gum or mucilage1 combined with vegetable acid4 ,it exists more or less in all vegetables1 and is especially abundant in those roots and fruits from which jellies are prepared4 ,,stewed ,,carrots4 #aajb4 ,,ingredients4--#g or #h large carrots1 #a teacupful of broth1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/b teacupful of cream1 thickening of butter and flour4 ,mode4--,scrape the carrots nicely2 half-boil1 and slice them into a stewpan2 add the broth1 pepper and salt1 and cream2 simmer till tender1 and be careful the carrots are not broken4 ,a few minutes before serving1 mix a little flour with about #a oz4 of butter2 thicken the gravy with this2 let it just boil up1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to parboil the carrots1 about #bj minutes to cook them after they are sliced4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #h;d4 per bunch of #ah4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,young carrots from ,april to ,june1 old ones at any time4 ,,nutritive ,,properties ,,of ,,the ,,carrot4--,sir ,h4 ,davy ascertained the nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts in one thousand2 of which ninety-five are sugar and three are starch4 ,it is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give colour and flavour to butter2 and it is excellent in stews1 haricots1 soups1 and1 when boiled whole1 with salt beef4 ,in the distillery1 owing to the great proportion of sugar in its composition1 it yields more spirit than the potato4 ,the usual quantity is twelve gallons per ton4 ,,sliced ,,carrots4 7,entremets1 or to be served with the ,second ,course1 as a ,side-dish47 #aajc4 ,,ingredients4--#e or #f large carrots1 a large lump of sugar1 #a pint of weak stock1 #c oz4 of fresh butter1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,scrape and wash the carrots1 cut them into slices of an equal size1 and boil them in salt and water1 until half done2 drain them well1 put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock1 and let them boil over a brisk fire4 ,when reduced to a glaze1 add the fresh butter and a seasoning of salt2 shake the stewpan about well1 and when the butter is well mixed with the carrots1 serve4 ,there should be no sauce in the dish when it comes to table1 but it should all adhere to the carrots4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #h;d4 per bunch of #ah4 ,sufficient for #a dish4 ,seasonable4--,young carrots from ,april to ,june1 old ones at any time4 ,,the ,,seed ,,of ,,the ,,carrot4--,in order to save the seed of carrots1 the plan is1 to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped roots in the taking-up season1 and either preserve them in sand in a cellar till spring1 or plant them immediately in an open airy part of the garden1 protecting them with litter during severe frost1 or earthing them over1 and uncovering them in ,march following4 ,the seed is in no danger from being injured by any other plant4 ,in ,august it is fit to gather1 and is best preserved on the stalks till wanted4 ,,boiled ,,cauliflowers4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,cauliflower4 ,illustration3 ,,cauliflower4 #aajd4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,choose cauliflowers that are close and white2 trim off the decayed outside leaves1 and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom4 ,open the flower a little in places to remove the insects1 which generally are found about the stalk1 and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water for an hour previous to dressing them1 with their heads downwards3 this will effectually draw out all the vermin4 ,then put them into fast-boiling water1 with the addition of salt in the above proportion1 and let them boil briskly over a good fire1 keeping the saucepan uncovered4 ,the water should be well skimmed2 and1 when the cauliflowers are tender1 take them up with a slice2 let them drain1 and1 if large enough1 place them upright in the dish4 ,serve with plain melted butter1 a little of which may be poured over the flower4 ,time4--,small cauliflower1 #ab to #ae minutes1 large one1 #bj to #be minutes1 after the water boils4 ,average cost1 for large cauliflowers1 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a large cauliflower for #c persons4 ,seasonable from the beginning of ,june to the end of ,september4 ,,cauliflowers ,a ,,la ,,sauce ,,blanche4 7,entremets1 or ,side-dish1 to be served with the ,second ,course47 #aaje4 ,,ingredients4--#c cauliflowers1 #a_/b pint of sauce blanche1 or ,french melted butter1 ,no4 #cgh2 #c oz4 of butter2 salt and water4 ,mode4--,cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe1 and cut the stalks off flat at the bottom2 boil them until tender in salt and water1 to which the above proportion of butter has been added1 and be careful to take them up the moment they are done1 or they will break1 and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled4 ,drain them well1 and dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower4 ,have ready #a_/b pint of sauce1 made by recipe ,no4 #cgh1 pour it over the flowers1 and serve hot and quickly4 ,time4--,small cauliflowers1 #ab to #ae minutes1 large ones1 #bj to #be minutes1 after the water boils4 ,average cost1--large cauliflowers1 in full season1 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient1--#a large cauliflower for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from the beginning of ,june to the end of ,september4 ,,cauliflower ,,and ,,brocoli4--,these are only forms of the wild ,cabbage in its cultivated state4 ,they are both well known2 but we may observe1 that the purple and white ,brocoli are only varieties of the ,cauliflower4 ,,cauliflowers ,,with ,,parmesan ,,cheese4 7,entremets1 or ,side-dish1 to be served with the ,second ,course47 #aajf4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c cauliflowers1 rather more than #a_/b pint of white sauce ,no4 #cgh1 #b tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese1 #b oz4 of fresh butter1 #c tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe ,no4 #aajd1 and drain them and dish them with the flowers standing upright4 ,have ready the above proportion of white sauce2 pour sufficient of it over the cauliflowers just to cover the top2 sprinkle over this some rasped ,parmesan cheese and bread crumbs1 and drop on these the butter1 which should be melted1 but not oiled4 ,brown with a salamander1 or before the fire1 and pour round1 but not over1 the flowers the remainder of the sauce1 with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 for large cauliflowers1 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient1--#c small cauliflowers for #a dish4 ,seasonable from the beginning of ,june to the end of ,september4 ,,celery4 ,illustration3 ,,celery ,,in ,,glass4 #aajg4 ,with a good heart1 and nicely blanched1 this vegetable is generally eaten raw1 and is usually served with the cheese4 ,let the roots be washed free from dirt1 all the decayed and outside leaves being cut off1 preserving as much of the stalk as possible1 and all specks or blemishes being carefully removed4 ,should the celery be large1 divide it lengthwise into quarters1 and place it1 root downwards1 in a celery-glass1 which should be rather more than half filled with water4 ,the top leaves may be curled1 by shredding them in narrow strips with the point of a clean skewer1 at a distance of about #d inches from the top4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per head4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b heads for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,april4 ,note4--,this vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups1 sauces1 c41 and makes a very nice addition to winter salad4 ,,stewed ,,celery ,a ,,la ,,creme4 #aajh4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of celery2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #a_/c pint of cream4 ,mode4--,wash the celery thoroughly2 trim1 and boil it in salt and water until tender4 ,put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan2 shake it over the fire until the cream thickens1 dish the celery1 pour over the sauce1 and serve4 ,time4--,large heads of celery1 #be minutes2 small ones1 #ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost4 #b;d4 per head4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,april4 ,,alexanders4--,this plant is the ,smyrnium olustratum of science1 and is used in this country in the same way in which celery is4 ,it is a native of ,great ,britain1 and is found in its wild state near the seacoast4 ,it received its name from the ,italian herba ,alexandrina1 and is supposed to have been originally brought from ,alexandria2 but1 be this as it may1 its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned4 ,,stewed ,,celery 7with ,white ,sauce74 ,i4 #aaji4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of celery1 #a oz4 of butter2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 #a_/b pint of white sauce1 ,no4 #ecg or #ech4 ,mode4--,have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery1 with salt and butter in the above proportion4 ,wash the celery well2 cut off the decayed outside leaves1 trim away the green tops1 and shape the root into a point2 put it into the boiling water2 let it boil rapidly until tender2 then take it out1 drain well1 place it upon a dish1 and pour over about #a_/b pint of white sauce1 made by either of the recipes ,no4 #ecg or #ech4 ,it may also be plainly boiled as above1 placed on toast1 and melted butter poured over1 the same as asparagus is dished4 ,time4--,large heads of celery1 #be minutes1 small ones1 #ae to #bj minutes1 after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per head4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,april4 ,,origin ,,of ,,celery4--,in the marshes and ditches of this country there is to be found a very common plant1 known by the name of ,smallage4 ,this is the wild form of celery2 but1 by being subjected to cultivation1 it loses its acrid nature1 and becomes mild and sweet4 ,in its natural state1 it has a peculiar rank1 coarse taste and smell1 and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of the five greater aperient roots4 ,there is a variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large4 ,it is called ,celeriae1 and is extensively used by the ,germans1 and preferred by them to celery4 ,in a raw state1 this plant does not suit weak stomachs2 cooked1 it is less difficult of digestion1 although a large quantity should not he taken4 ,illustration3 ,,celery44 ,,ii4 #aaaj4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of celery1 #a_/b pint of white stock or weak broth1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a blade of pounded mace1 a very little grated nutmeg2 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,wash the celery1 strip off the outer leaves1 and cut it into lengths of about #d inches4 ,put these into a saucepan1 with the broth1 and stew till tender1 which will be in from #bj to #be minutes2 then add the remaining ingredients1 simmer altogether for #d or #e minutes1 pour into a dish1 and serve4 ,it may be garnished with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per head4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,april4 ,note4--,by cutting the celery into smaller pieces1 by stewing it a little longer1 and1 when done1 by pressing it through a sieve1 the above stew may be converted into a puree of celery4 ,,to ,,dress ,,cucumbers4 #aaaa4 ,,ingredients4--#c tablespoonfuls of salad-oil1 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 salt and pepper to taste2 cucumber4 ,mode4--,pare the cucumber1 cut it equally into very thin slices1 and commence cutting from the thick end2 if commenced at the stalk1 the cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste1 far from agreeable4 ,put the slices into a dish1 sprinkle over salt and pepper1 and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion2 turn the cucumber about1 and it is ready to serve4 ,this is a favourite accompaniment to boiled salmon1 is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads1 and makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad4 ,illustration3 ,,sliced ,,cucumbers4 ,illustration3 ,,cucumber4 ,average cost1 when scarce1 #as4 to #bs4 #f;d42 when cheapest1 may be had for #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable4--,forced from the beginning of ,march to the end of ,june2 in full season in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,,geographical ,,distribution ,,of ,,the ,,cucumbers4--,this family is not known in the frigid zone1 is somewhat rare in the temperate1 but in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are abundant4 ,they are most plentiful in the continent of ,hindostan2 but in ,america are not near so plentiful4 ,many of the kinds supply useful articles of consumption for food1 and others are actively medicinal in their virtues4 ,generally speaking1 delicate stomachs should avoid this plant1 for it is cold and indigestible4 ,,cucumbers ,a ,,la ,,poulette4 #aaab4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c cucumbers1 salt and vinegar1 #b oz4 of butter1 flour1 #a_/b pint of broth1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 a lump of sugar1 the yolks of #b eggs1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness1 and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for #a_/b hour2 then drain them in a cloth1 and put them into a stewpan with the butter4 ,fry them over a brisk fire1 but do not brown them1 and then dredge over them a little flour2 add the broth1 skim off all the fat1 which will rise to the surface1 and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced2 but the cucumber should not be broken4 ,stir in the yolks of the eggs1 add the parsley1 sugar1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 bring the whole to the point of boiling1 and serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #d;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september2 but may be had1 forced1 from the beginning of ,march4 ,,fried ,,cucumbers4 #aaac4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c cucumbers1 pepper and salt to taste1 flour1 oil or butter4 ,mode4--,pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal thickness1 commencing to slice from the thick1 and not the stalk end of the cucumber4 ,wipe the slices dry with a cloth1 dredge them with flour1 and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter2 ,keep turning them about until brown2 lift them out of the pan1 let them drain1 and serve1 piled lightly in a dish4 ,these will be found a great improvement to rump-steak3 they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top4 ,time4--#e minutes4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #d;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable4--,forced from the beginning of ,march to the end of ,june2 in full season in ,july and ,august4 ,,properties ,,and ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,cucurbits4--,the common cucumber is the ,c4 sativus of science1 and although the whole of the family have a similar action in the animal economy1 yet there are some which present us with great anomalies4 ,the roots of those which are perennial contain1 besides fecula1 which is their base1 a resinous1 acrid1 and bitter principle4 ,the fruits of this family1 however1 have in general a sugary taste1 and are more or less dissolving and perfumed1 as we find in the melons1 gourds1 cucumbers1 vegetable-marrows1 and squashes4 ,but these are slightly laxative if partaken of largely4 ,in tropical countries1 this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of their food1 which1 even in the most arid deserts and most barren islands1 is of the finest quality4 ,in ,china1 ,cashmere1 and ,persia1 they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating collections of weeds common in these localities4 ,in ,india they are everywhere abundant1 either in a cultivated or wild state1 and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous4 ,,stewed ,,cucumbers4 #aaad4 ,,ingredients4--#c large cucumbers1 flour1 butter1 rather more than #a_/b pint of good brown gravy4 ,mode4--,cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are intended to be served in2 empty them of the seeds1 and put them into boiling water with a little salt1 and let them simmer for #e minutes2 then take them out1 place them in another stewpan1 with the gravy1 and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender4 ,should these be bitter1 add a lump of sugar2 carefully dish them1 skim the sauce1 pour over the cucumbers1 and serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #a;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august2 but may be had1 forced1 from the beginning of ,march4 ,,the ,,chate4--,this cucumber is a native of ,egypt and ,arabia1 and produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the ,melon4 ,in ,egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives1 as well as by ,europeans1 as the most pleasant fruit they have4 ,,stewed ,,cucumbers ,,with ,,onions4 #aaae4 ,,ingredients4--#f cucumbers1 #c moderate-sized onions1 not quite #a pint of white stock1 cayenne and salt to taste1 the yolks of #b eggs1 a very little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the cucumbers1 take out the seeds1 and cut the onions into thin slices2 put these both into a stewpan1 with the stock1 and let them boil for #a_/d hour or longer1 should the cucumbers be very large4 ,beat up the yolks of #b eggs2 stir these into the sauce2 add the cayenne1 salt1 and grated nutmeg2 bring it to the point of boiling1 and serve4 ,do not allow the sauce to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,this is a favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops1 rump-steaks1 c4 ,time4--,altogether1 #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #d;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september2 but may be had1 forced1 from the beginning of ,march4 ,,the ,,melon4--,this is another species of the cucumber1 and is highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit4 ,it was introduced to this country from ,jamaica1 in #aegj2 since which period it has continued to be cultivated4 ,it was formerly called the ,musk ,melon4 ,,endive4 ,illustration3 ,,endive4 #aaaf4 ,this vegetable1 so beautiful in appearance1 makes an excellent addition to winter salad1 when lettuces and other salad herbs are not obtainable4 ,it is usually placed in the centre of the dish1 and looks remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot1 hard-boiled eggs1 and curled celery placed round it1 so that the colours contrast nicely4 ,in preparing it1 carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects1 which are generally found near the heart2 remove any decayed or dead leaves1 and dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth4 ,this vegetable may also be served hot1 stewed in cream1 brown gravy1 or butter2 but when dressed thus1 the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned1 as that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 per head4 ,sufficient1--#a head for a salad for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,endive4--,this is the ,c4 endivium of science1 and is much used as a salad4 ,it belongs to the family of the ,compositae1 with ,chicory1 common ,goats-beard1 and others of the same genus4 ,withering states1 that before the stems of the common ,goats-beard shoot up the roots1 boiled like asparagus1 have the same flavour1 and are nearly as nutritious4 ,we are also informed by ,villars that the children in ,dauphin universally eat the stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear1 with great avidity4 ,the fresh juice of these tender herbs is said to be the best solvent of bile4 ,,stewed ,,endive4 #aaag4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of endive1 salt and water1 #a pint of broth1 thickening of butter and flour1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 a small lump of sugar4 ,mode4--,wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects1 remove the green part of the leaves1 and put it into boiling water1 slightly salted4 ,let it remain for #aj minutes2 then take it out1 drain it till there is no water remaining1 and chop it very fine4 ,put it into a stewpan with the broth2 add a little salt and a lump of sugar1 and boil until the endive is perfectly tender4 ,when done1 which may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger1 add a thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice3 let the sauce boil up1 and serve4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil1 #e minutes to simmer in the broth4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 per head4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,endive ,a ,,la ,,francaise4 #aaah4 ,,ingredients4--#f heads of endive1 #a pint of broth1 #c oz4 of fresh butter2 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe2 chop it rather fine1 and put into a stewpan with the broth2 boil over a brisk fire until the sauce is all reduced2 then put in the butter1 pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg 7the latter must be very sparingly used72 mix all well together1 bring it to the boiling point1 and serve very hot4 ,time1--#aj minutes to boil1 #e minutes to simmer in the broth4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 per head4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,to ,,boil ,,haricots ,,blancs1 or ,,white ,,haricot ,,beans4 #aaai4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of white haricot beans1 #b quarts of soft water1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,put the beans into cold water1 and let them soak from #b to #d hours1 according to their age2 then put them into cold water1 salted in the above proportion1 bring them to boil1 and let them simmer very slowly until tender2 pour the water away from them1 let them stand by the side of the fire1 with the lid of the saucepan partially off1 to allow the beans to dry2 then add #a oz4 of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,shake the beans about for a minute or two1 and serve3 do not stir them with a spoon1 for fear of breaking them to pieces4 ,time4--,after the water boils1 from #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in winter1 when other vegetables are scarce4 ,note4--,haricots blancs1 when new and fresh1 should be put into boiling water1 and do not require any soaking previous to dressing4 ,,haricots ,,and ,,lentils4--,although these vegetables are not much used in this country1 yet in ,france1 and other ,catholic countries1 from their peculiar constituent properties1 they form an excellent substitute for animal food during ,lent and maigre days4 ,at the time of the prevalence of the ,roman religion in this country1 they were probably much more generally used than at present4 ,as reformations are often carried beyond necessity1 possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse1 as an article of diet amongst ,protestants1 for fear the use of them might be considered a sign of popery4 ,,haricots ,,blancs ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel4 #aabj4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of white haricot beans1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 pepper and salt to taste1 the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,illustration3 ,,haricot ,,beans4 ,mode4--,should the beans be very dry1 soak them for an hour or two in cold water1 and boil them until perfectly tender1 as in the preceding recipe4 ,if the water should boil away1 replenish it with a little more cold1 which makes the skin of the beans tender4 ,let them be very thoroughly done2 drain them well2 then add to them the butter1 minced parsley1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,keep moving the stewpan over the fire without using a spoon1 as this would break the beans2 and1 when the various ingredients are well mixed with them1 squeeze in the lemon-juice1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--,from #b to #b-a_/b hours to boil the beans4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,haricot ,,beans4--,this is the haricot blanc of the ,french1 and is a native of ,india4 ,it ripens readily1 in dry summers1 in most parts of ,britain1 but its culture has hitherto been confined to gardens in ,england2 but in ,germany and ,switzerland it is grown in fields4 ,it is usually harvested by pulling up the plants1 which1 being dried1 are stacked and thrashed4 ,the haulm is both of little bulk and little use1 but the seed is used in making the esteemed ,french dish called haricot1 with which it were well if the working classes of this country were acquainted4 ,there is1 perhaps1 no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked1 and1 at the same time1 so agreeable and nourishing4 ,the beans are boiled1 and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter1 and a little milk or water and flour4 ,from #c1hdj parts of kidney-bean ,einholff obtained #a1hje parts of matter analogous to starch1 #cea of vegeto-animal matter1 and #gii parts of mucilage4 ,,haricot ,,beans ,,and ,,minced ,,onions4 #aaba4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of white haricot beans1 #d middling-sized onions1 #a_/d pint of good brown gravy1 pepper and salt to taste1 a little flour4 ,mode4--,peel and mince the onions not too finely1 and fry them in butter of a light brown colour2 dredge over them a little flour1 and add the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,have ready a pint of haricot beans well boiled and drained2 put them with the onions and gravy1 mix all well together1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--,from #b to #b-a_/b hours to boil the beans2 #e minutes to fry the onions4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per quart4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,horseradish4 #aabb4 ,this root1 scraped1 is always served with hot roast beef1 and is used for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish4 ,let the horseradish remain in cold water for an hour2 wash it well1 and with a sharp knife scrape it into very thin shreds1 commencing from the thick end of the root4 ,arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish1 and the remainder use for garnishing the joint3 it should be placed in tufts round the border of the dish1 with #a or #b bunches on the meat4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per stick4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,june4 ,illustration3 ,,horseradish4 ,,the ,,horseradish4--,this belongs to the tribe ,alyssidae1 and is highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach4 ,it has been recommended in chronic rheumatism1 palsy1 dropsical complaints1 and in cases of enfeebled digestion4 ,its principal use1 however1 is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive organs4 ,the horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty per cent1 in the number of its elements2 and it is to the presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the radish is sometimes distilled1 are turned into a black colour4 ,it is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we have1 and forms the basis of several medical preparations1 in the form of wines1 tinctures1 and syrups4 ,,lettuces4 #aabc4 ,these form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads2 should be nicely blanched1 and be eaten young4 ,they are seldom served in any other way1 but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravy flavoured with lemon-juice4 ,in preparing them for a salad1 carefully wash them free from dirt1 pick off all the decayed and outer leaves1 and dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth4 ,cut off the stalks1 and either halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces4 ,the manner of cutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they are intended4 ,in ,france the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth and not washed1 the cooks there declaring that the act of washing them injuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant3 in this case scrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf1 and the grit thoroughly wiped away4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #a;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b lettuces for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,march to the end of ,august1 but may be had all the year4 ,illustration3 ,,lettuce4 ,,the ,,lettuce4--,all the varieties of the garden lettuce have originated from the ,lactuca sativa of science1 which has never yet been found in a wild state4 ,hence it may be concluded that it is merely another form of some species1 changed through the effects of cultivation4 ,in its young state1 the lettuce forms a well-known and wholesome salad1 containing a bland pellucid juice1 with little taste or smell1 and having a cooling and soothing influence on the system4 ,this arises from the large quantities of water and mucilage it contains1 and not from any narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess4 ,during the period of flowering1 it abounds in a peculiar milky juice1 which flows from the stem when wounded1 and which has been found to be possessed of decided medicinal properties4 ,,baked ,,mushrooms4 7,a ,breakfast1 ,luncheon1 or ,supper ,dish47 #aabd4 ,,ingredients4--#af to #bj mushroom-flaps1 butter1 pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,for this mode of cooking1 the mushroom flaps are better than the buttons1 and should not be too large4 ,cut off a portion of the stalk1 peel the top1 and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt4 ,put them into a tin baking-dish1 with a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom2 sprinkle over a little pepper1 and let them bake for about #bj minutes1 or longer should the mushrooms be very large4 ,have ready a very hot dish1 pile the mushrooms high in the centre1 pour the gravy round1 and send them to table quickly1 with very hot plates4 ,time4--#bj minutes2 large mushrooms1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each for large mushroom-flaps4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,meadow mushrooms in ,september and ,october2 cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time4 ,,fungi4--,these are common parasitical plants1 originating in the production of copious filamentous threads1 called the mycelium1 or spawn4 ,rounded tubers appear on the mycelium2 some of these enlarge rapidly1 burst an outer covering1 which is left at the base1 and protrude a thick stalk1 bearing at its summit a rounded body1 which in a short time expands into the pileus or cap4 ,the gills1 which occupy its lower surface1 consist of parallel plates1 bearing naked sporules over their whole surface4 ,some of the cells1 which are visible by the microscope1 produce four small cells at their free summit1 apparently by germination and constriction4 ,these are the sporules1 and this is the development of the ,agarics4 ,,broiled ,,mushrooms4 7,a ,breakfast1 ,luncheon1 or ,supper ,dish47 #aabe4 ,,ingredients4--,mushroom-flaps1 pepper and salt to taste1 butter1 lemon-juice4 ,illustration3 ,,broiled ,,mushrooms4 ,mode4--,cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt2 cut off a portion of the stalk1 and peel the tops3 broil them over a clear fire1 turning them once1 and arrange them on a very hot dish4 ,put a small piece of butter on each mushroom1 season with pepper and salt1 and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice4 ,place the dish before the fire1 and when the butter is melted1 serve very hot and quickly4 ,moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of cooking than the buttons3 the latter are better in stews4 ,time4--#aj minutes for medium-sized mushrooms4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each for large mushrooms4 ,sufficient4--,allow #c or #d mushrooms to each person4 ,seasonable4--,meadow mushrooms in ,september and ,october2 cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,mushrooms4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,mushroom4--,the common mushroom found in our pastures is the ,agaricus campestris of science1 and another edible ,british species is ,a4 ,georgii2 but ,a4 primulus is affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom4 ,the morel is ,morchella esculenta1 and ,tuber cibarium is the common truffle4 ,there is in ,new ,zealand a long fungus1 which grows from the head of a caterpillar1 and which forms a horn1 as it were1 and is called ,sphaeria ,robertsii4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,mushrooms4 #aabf4 ,,ingredients4--,to each quart of mushrooms1 allow #c oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 the juice of #a lemon1 clarified butter4 ,mode4--,peel the mushrooms1 put them into cold water1 with a little lemon-juice2 take them out and dry them very carefully in a cloth4 ,put the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms2 when it is melted1 add the mushrooms1 lemon-juice1 and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 draw them down over a slow fire1 and let them remain until their liquor is boiled away1 and they have become quite dry1 but be careful in not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan4 ,when done1 put them into pots1 and pour over the top clarified butter4 ,if wanted for immediate use1 they will keep good a few days without being covered over4 ,to re-warm them1 put the mushrooms into a stewpan1 strain the butter from them1 and they will be ready for use4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,seasonable4--,meadow mushrooms in ,september and ,october2 cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time4 ,,localities ,,of ,,the ,,mushroom4--,mushrooms are to be met with in pastures1 woods1 and marshes1 but are very capricious and uncertain in their places of growth1 multitudes being obtained in one season where few or none were to be found in the preceding4 ,they sometimes grow solitary1 but more frequently they are gregarious1 and rise in a regular circular form4 ,many species are employed by man as food2 but1 generally speaking1 they are difficult of digestion1 and by no means very nourishing4 ,many of them are also of suspicious qualities4 ,little reliance can be placed either on their taste1 smell1 or colour1 as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate2 and even the same plant1 it is affirmed1 may be innocent when young1 but become noxious when advanced in age4 ,,stewed ,,mushrooms4 #aabg4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint mushroom-buttons1 #c oz4 of fresh butter1 white pepper and salt to taste1 lemon-juice1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 cream or milk1 #a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,cut off the ends of the stalks1 and pare neatly a pint of mushroom-buttons2 put them into a basin of water1 with a little lemon-juice1 as they are done4 ,when all are prepared1 take them from the water with the hands1 to avoid the sediment1 and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter1 white pepper1 salt1 and the juice of #a_/b lemon2 cover the pan closely1 and let the mushrooms stew gently from #bj to #be minutes2 then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour1 add gradually sufficient cream1 or cream and milk1 to make the sauce of a proper consistency1 and put in the grated nutmeg4 ,if the mushrooms are not perfectly tender1 stew them for #e minutes longer1 remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #i;d4 to #bs4 per pint4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,meadow mushrooms in ,september and ,october4 ,,to ,,procure ,,mushrooms4--,in order to obtain mushrooms at all seasons1 several methods of propagation have been had recourse to4 ,it is said that1 in some parts of ,italy1 a species of stone is used for this purpose1 which is described as being of two different kinds2 the one is found in the chalk hills near ,naples1 and has a white1 porous1 stalactical appearance2 the other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near ,florence4 ,these stones are kept in cellars1 and occasionally moistened with water which has been used in the washing of mushrooms1 and are thus supplied with their minute seeds4 ,in this country1 gardeners provide themselves with what is called spawn1 either from the old manure of cucumber-beds1 or purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it4 ,when thus procured1 it is usually made up for sale in quadrils1 consisting of numerous white fibrous roots1 having a strong smell of mushrooms4 ,this is planted in rows1 in a dry situation1 and carefully attended to for five or six weeks1 when the bed begins to produce1 and continues to do so for several months4 ,,stewed ,,mushrooms ,,in ,,gravy4 #aabh4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of mushroom-buttons1 #a pint of brown gravy ,no4 #dcf1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,make a pint of brown gravy by recipe #dcf2 cut nearly all the stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops2 put them into a stewpan1 with the gravy1 and simmer them gently from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 to #bs4 per pint4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,meadow mushrooms in ,september and ,october4 ,,analysis ,,of ,,fungi4--,the fungi have been examined chemically with much care1 both by ,,mm4 ,bracannot and ,vauquelin1 who designate the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin1 and the soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic acids4 ,,baked ,,spanish ,,onions4 #aabi4 ,,ingredients4--#d or #e ,spanish onions1 salt1 and water4 ,mode4--,put the onions1 with their skins on1 into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted1 and let them boil quickly for an hour4 ,then take them out1 wipe them thoroughly1 wrap each one in a piece of paper separately1 and bake them in a moderate oven for #b hours1 or longer1 should the onions be very large4 ,they may be served in their skins1 and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt2 or they may be peeled1 and a good brown gravy poured over them4 ,time4--#a hour to boil1 #b hours to bake4 ,average cost1 medium-sized1 #b;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,illustration3 ,,onion4 ,,the ,,genus ,,allium4--,the ,onion1 like the ,leek1 ,garlic1 and ,shalot1 belongs to the genus ,allium1 which is a numerous species of vegetable2 and every one of them possesses1 more or less1 a volatile and acrid penetrating principle1 pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids2 and all are very similar in their properties4 ,in the whole of them the bulb is the most active part1 and any one of them may supply the place of the other2 for they are all irritant1 excitant1 and vesicant4 ,with many1 the onion is a very great favourite1 and is considered an extremely nutritive vegetable4 ,the ,spanish kind is frequently taken for supper1 it being simply boiled1 and then seasoned with salt1 pepper1 and butter4 ,some dredge on a little flour1 but many prefer it without this4 ,,burnt ,,onions ,,for ,,gravies4 #aacj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of onions1 #a_/c pint of water1 #a_/b lb4 of moist sugar1 #a_/c pint of vinegar4 ,mode4--,peel and chop the onions fine1 and put them into a stewpan 7not tinned71 with the water2 let them boil for #e minutes1 then add the sugar1 and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and throws out bubbles of smoke4 ,have ready the above proportion of boiling vinegar1 strain the liquor gradually to it1 and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it is well incorporated4 ,when cold1 bottle for use4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour4 ,,properties ,,of ,,the ,,onion4--,the onion is possessed of a white1 acrid1 volatile oil1 holding sulphur in solution1 albumen1 a good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage2 phosphoric acid1 both free and combined with lime2 acetic acid1 citrate of lime1 and lignine4 ,of all the species of allium1 the onion has the volatile principle in the greatest degree2 and hence it is impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes being affected4 ,the juice is sensibly acid1 and is capable of being1 by fermentation1 converted into vinegar1 and1 mixed with water or the dregs of beer1 yields1 by distillation1 an alcoholic liquor4 ,although used as a common esculent1 onions are not suited to all stomachs2 there are some who cannot eat them either fried or roasted1 whilst others prefer them boiled1 which is the best way of using them1 as1 by the process they then undergo1 they are deprived of their essential oil4 ,the pulp of roasted onions1 with oil1 forms an excellent anodyne and emollient poultice to suppurating tumours4 ,,stewed ,,spanish ,,onions4 #aaca--;,,ingredients4--#e or #f ,spanish onions1 #a pint of good broth or gravy4 ,mode4--,peel the onions1 taking care not to cut away too much of the tops or tails1 or they would then fall to pieces2 put them into a stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on the top of another2 add the broth or gravy1 and simmer very gently until the onions are perfectly tender4 ,dish them1 pour the gravy round1 and serve4 ,instead of using broth1 ,spanish onions may be stewed with a large piece of butter3 they must be done very gradually over a slow fire or hot-plate1 and will produce plenty of gravy4 ,time4--,to stew in gravy1 #b hours1 or longer if very large4 ,average cost4--medium-sized1 #b;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,note4--,stewed ,spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast shoulder of mutton4 ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,onion4--,this vegetable is thought to have originally come from ,india1 through ,egypt1 where it became an object of worship4 ,thence it was transmitted to ,greece1 thence to ,italy1 and ultimately it was distributed throughout ,europe1 in almost every part of which it has1 from time immemorial1 been cultivated4 ,in warm climates it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes2 and in ,spain it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion1 as an ,englishman would an apple4 ,spanish onions1 which are imported to this country during the winter months1 are1 when properly roasted1 perfectly sweet1 and equal to many preserves4 ,,boiled ,,parsnips4 #aacb4 ,,ingredients4--,parsnips2 to each gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,wash the parsnips1 scrape them thoroughly1 and1 with the point of the knife1 remove any black specks about them1 and1 should they be very large1 cut the thick part into quarters4 ,put them into a saucepan of boiling water salted in the above proportion1 boil them rapidly until tender1 which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them2 take them up1 drain them1 and serve in a vegetable-dish4 ,this vegetable is usually served with salt fish1 boiled pork1 or boiled beef3 when sent to table with the latter1 a few should be placed alternately with carrots round the dish1 as a garnish4 ,time4--,large parsnips1 #a to #a-a_/b hour2 small ones1 #a_/b to #a hour4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a for each person4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,may4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,parsnip4 ,,the ,,parsnip4--,this vegetable is found wild in meadows all over ,europe1 and1 in ,england1 is met with very frequently on dry banks in a chalky soil4 ,in its wild state1 the root is white1 mucilaginous1 aromatic1 and sweet1 with some degree of acrimony3 when old1 it has been known to cause vertigo4 ,willis relates that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its roots1 and cattle never touch it in its wild state4 ,in domestic economy the parsnip is much used1 and is found to be a highly nutritious vegetable4 ,in times of scarcity1 an excellent bread has been made from the roots1 and they also furnish an excellent wine1 resembling the malmsey of ,madeira and the ,canaries3 a spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from carrots4 ,the composition of the parsnip-root has been found to be #gi4d of water1 #j4i starch and fibre1 #f4a gum1 #e4e sugar1 and #b4a of albumen4 ,,boiled ,,green ,,peas4 #aacc4 ,,ingredients4--,green peas2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a small teaspoonful of moist sugar1 #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,this delicious vegetable1 to be eaten in perfection1 should be young1 and not gathered or shelled long before it is dressed4 ,shell the peas1 wash them well in cold water1 and drain them2 then put them into a saucepan with plenty of fast-boiling water1 to which salt and moist sugar have been added in the above proportion2 let them boil quickly over a brisk fire1 with the lid of the saucepan uncovered1 and be careful that the smoke does not draw in4 ,when tender1 pour them into a colander2 put them into a hot vegetable-dish1 and quite in the centre of the peas place a piece of butter1 the size of a walnut4 ,many cooks boil a small bunch of mint with the peas1 or garnish them with it1 by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves4 ,should the peas be very old1 and difficult to boil a good colour1 a very tiny piece of soda may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in2 but this must be very sparingly used1 as it causes the peas1 when boiled1 to have a smashed and broken appearance4 ,with young peas1 there is not the slightest occasion to use it4 ,time4--,young peas1 #aj to #ae minutes2 the large sorts1 such as marrowfats1 c41 #ah to #bd minutes2 old peas1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 when cheapest1 #f;d4 per peck2 when first in season1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 per peck4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a peck of unshelled peas for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to the end of ,august4 ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,pea4--,all the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the ,pisum sativum1 a native of the south of ,europe2 and field peas are varieties of ,pisum arvense4 ,the ,everlasting ,pea is ,lathyrus latifolius1 an old favourite in flower-gardens4 ,it is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees1 which are remarkably fond of it4 ,in this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial2 but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage1 plants1 and roots4 ,,green ,,peas ,a ,,la ,,francaise4 #aacd4 ,,ingredients4--#b quarts of green peas1 #c oz4 of fresh butter1 a bunch of parsley1 #f green onions1 flour1 a small lump of sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 a teaspoonful of flour4 ,mode4--,shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill #b quarts2 put them into cold water1 with the above proportion of butter1 and stir them about until they are well covered with the butter2 drain them in a colander1 and put them in a stewpan1 with the parsley and onions2 dredge over them a little flour1 stir the peas well1 and moisten them with boiling water2 boil them quickly over a large fire for #bj minutes1 or until there is no liquor remaining4 ,dip a small lump of sugar into some water1 that it may soon melt2 put it with the peas1 to which add #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,take a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 work it together with a teaspoonful of flour2 and add this to the peas1 which should be boiling when it is put in4 ,keep shaking the stewpan1 and1 when the peas are nicely thickened1 dress them high in the dish1 and serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per peck4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to the end of ,august4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,pea4--,the varieties of the ,pea are numerous2 but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the ripened seed1 and those grown for gathering in a green state4 ,the culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods of large towns1 and may be considered as in part rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those of the agriculturist4 ,the grey varieties are the early grey1 the late grey1 and the purple grey2 to which some add the ,marlborough grey and the horn grey4 ,the white varieties grown in fields are the pearl1 early ,charlton1 golden hotspur1 the common white1 or ,suffolk1 and other ,suffolk varieties4 ,,stewed ,,green ,,peas4 #aace4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of peas1 #a ,lettuce1 #a onion1 #b oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a egg1 #a_/b teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,shell the peas1 and cut the onion and lettuce into slices2 put these into a stewpan1 with the butter1 pepper1 and salt1 but with no more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing4 ,stew the whole very gently for rather more than #a hour2 then stir to it a well-beaten egg1 and about #a_/b teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,when the peas1 c41 are nicely thickened1 serve but1 after the egg is added1 do not allow them to boil4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per peck4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,june to the end of ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,green ,,pea4 ,,the ,,sweet-,,pea ,,and ,,the ,,heath ,,or ,,wood-,,pea4--,the well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis1 or lattice-work in a flower-garden4 ,its gay and fragrant flowers1 with its rambling habit1 render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose4 ,the wood-pea1 or heath-pea1 is found in the heaths of ,scotland1 and the ,highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them1 and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey4 ,they also regard them as good against chest complaints1 and say that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and thirst for a long time4 ,the peas have a sweet taste1 somewhat like the root of liquorice1 and1 when boiled1 have an agreeable flavour1 and are nutritive4 ,in times of scarcity they have served as an article of food4 ,when well boiled1 a fork will pass through them2 and1 slightly dried1 they are roasted1 and in ,holland and ,flanders served up like chestnuts4 ,,baked ,,potatoes4 #aacf4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes4 ,illustration3 ,,baked ,,potatoes ,,served ,,in ,,napkin4 ,mode4--,choose large potatoes1 as much of a size as possible2 wash them in lukewarm water1 and scrub them well1 for the browned skin of a baked potato is by many persons considered the better part of it4 ,put them into a moderate oven1 and bake them for about #b hours1 turning them three or four times whilst they are cooking4 ,serve them in a napkin immediately they are done1 as1 if kept a long time in the oven1 they have a shrivelled appearance4 ,potatoes may also be roasted before the fire1 in an ,american oven2 but when thus cooked1 they must be done very slowly4 ,do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter4 ,time4--,large potatoes1 in a hot oven #a-a_/b hour to #b hours2 in a cool oven1 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b to each person4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season4 ,,potato-,,sugar4--,this sugary substance1 found in the tubers of potatoes1 is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle1 and has not yet been crystallized4 ,it resembles the sugar of grapes1 has a very sweet taste1 and may be used for making sweetmeats1 and as a substitute for honey4 ,sixty pounds of potatoes1 yielding eight pounds of dry starch1 will produce seven and a half pounds of sugar4 ,in ,russia it is extensively made1 as good1 though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar4 ,a spirit is also distilled from the tubers1 which resembles brandy1 but is milder1 and has a flavour as if it were charged with the odour of violets or raspberries4 ,in ,france this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively1 and five hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of spirit1 the pulp being given to cattle4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes4 #aacg4 ,,ingredients4--#aj or #ab potatoes2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,choose potatoes of an equal size1 pare them1 take out all the eyes and specks1 and as they are peeled1 throw them into cold water4 ,put them into a saucepan1 with sufficient cold water to cover them1 with salt in the above proportion1 and let them boil gently until tender4 ,ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them1 and take them up the moment they feel soft through2 for if they are left in the water afterwards1 they become waxy or watery4 ,drain away the water1 put the saucepan by the side of the fire1 with the lid partially uncovered1 to allow the steam to escape1 and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry1 and do not allow them to get burnt4 ,their superfluous moisture will evaporate1 and the potatoes1 if a good sort1 should be perfectly mealy and dry4 ,potatoes vary so much in quality and size1 that it is difficult to give the exact time for boiling2 they should be attentively watched1 and probed with a fork1 to ascertain when they are cooked4 ,send them to table quickly1 and very hot1 and with an opening in the cover of the dish1 that a portion of the steam may evaporate1 and not fall back on the potatoes4 ,time4--,moderate-sized old potatoes1 #ae to #bj minutes after the water boils2 large ones1 #a_/b hour to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season4 ,note4--,to keep potatoes hot1 after draining the water from them1 put a folded cloth or flannel 7kept for the purpose7 on the top of them1 keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered4 ,this will absorb the moisture1 and keep them hot some time without spoiling4 ,,the ,,potato4--,the potato belongs to the family of the ,solanaceae1 the greater number of which inhabit the tropics1 and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of both hemispheres1 but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic zones4 ,the whole of the family are suspicious2 a great number are narcotic1 and many are deleterious4 ,the roots partake of the properties of the plants1 and are sometimes even more active4 ,the tubercles of such as produce them1 are amylaceous and nutritive1 as in those of the potato4 ,the leaves are generally narcotic2 but they lose this principle in boiling1 as is the case with the ,solanum nigrum1 which are used as a vegetable when cooked4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes ,,in ,,their ,,jackets4 #aach4 ,,ingredients4--#aj or #ab potatoes2 to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,to obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in perfection1 it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on4 ,in ,ireland1 where1 perhaps1 the cooking of potatoes is better understood than in any country1 they are always served so4 ,wash the potatoes well1 and if necessary1 use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from them2 and if possible1 choose the potatoes so that they may all be as nearly the same size as possible4 ,when thoroughly cleansed1 fill the saucepan half full with them1 and just cover the potatoes with cold water1 salted in the above proportion3 they are more quickly boiled with a small quantity of water1 and1 besides1 are more savoury than when drowned in it4 ,bring them to boil1 then draw the pan to the side of the fire1 and let them simmer gently until tender4 ,ascertain when they are done by probing them with a fork2 then pour off the water1 uncover the saucepan1 and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire1 taking care not to let them burn4 ,peel them quickly1 put them in a very hot vegetable-dish1 either with or without a napkin1 and serve very quickly4 ,after potatoes are cooked1 they should never be entirely covered up1 as the steam1 instead of escaping1 falls down on them1 and makes them watery and insipid4 ,in ,ireland they are usually served up with the skins on1 and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest4 ,time4--,moderate-sized potatoes1 with their skins on1 #bj to #be minutes after the water boils2 large potatoes1 #be minutes to #c_/d hour1 or longer2 #e minutes to dry them4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient for #f persons4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season4 ,,analysis ,,of ,,the ,,potato4--,next to the cereals1 the potato is the most valuable plant for the production of human food4 ,its tubers1 according to analysis conducted by ,mr4 ,fromberg1 in the laboratory of the ,agricultural ,chemical ,association in ,scotland1 contain the following ingredients3--#ge4eb per cent4 of water1 #ae4gb starch1 ,o4#ee dextrine1 #c4c of impure saccharine matter1 and #c4be of fibre with coagulated albumen4 ,in a dried state the tuber contains #fd4b per cent1 of starch1 #b4be of dextrine1 #ac4dg of impure saccharine matter1 #e4gg of caseine1 gluten1 and albumen1 #a of fatty matter1 and #ac4ca of fibre with coagulated albumen4 ,,to ,,boil ,,new ,,potatoes4 #aaci4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed1 as they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time4 ,well wash them1 rub off the skins with a coarse cloth1 and put them into boiling water salted in the above proportion4 ,let them boil until tender2 try them with a fork1 and when done1 pour the water away from them2 let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the saucepan partially uncovered1 and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry1 put them into a hot vegetable-dish1 with a piece of butter the size of a walnut2 pile the potatoes over this1 and serve4 ,if the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed off1 boil them in their jackets2 drain1 peel1 and serve them as above1 with a piece of butter placed in the midst of them4 ,time4--#a_/d to #a_/b hour1 according to the size4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #a;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--,allow #c lbs4 for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,may and ,june1 but may be had1 forced1 in ,march4 ,,potato ,,starch4--,this fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance1 and is inodorous1 soft to the touch1 insoluble in cold1 but readily soluble in boiling water4 ,it is on this starch that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend4 ,as an aliment1 it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate constitution4 ,it may be used in the form of arrow-root1 and eaten with milk or sugar4 ,for pastry of all kinds it is more light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of wheat4 ,in confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies1 and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces4 ,it accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children1 for whom it is well adapted2 and it is an aliment that cannot be too generally used1 as much on account of its wholesomeness as its cheapness1 and the ease with which it is kept1 which are equal1 if not superior1 to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae2 as1 salep1 tapioca1 sago1 and arrow-root4 ,,to ,,steam ,,potatoes4 #aadj4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes2 boiling water4 ,mode4--,this mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue1 particularly where they are wanted on a large scale1 it being so very convenient4 ,pare the potatoes1 throw them into cold water as they are peeled1 then put them into a steamer4 ,place the steamer over a saucepan of boiling water1 and steam the potatoes from #bj to #dj minutes1 according to the size and sort4 ,when a fork goes easily through them1 they are done2 then take them up1 dish1 and serve very quickly4 ,time4--#bj to #dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b large potatoes to each person4 ,seasonable all the year1 but not so good whilst new potatoes are in season4 ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,potato4--,potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour milk form a sort of cheese1 which is made in ,saxony2 and1 when kept in close vessels1 may be preserved for several years4 ,it is generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled is injurious2 and as instances are recorded where cattle having drunk it were seriously affected1 it may be well to err on the safe side1 and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose4 ,potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green1 are very unwholesome4 ,cadet de ,vaux asserts that potatoes will clean linen as well as soap2 and it is well known that the berries of the ,s4 saponaceum are used in ,peru for the same purpose4 ,,how ,,to ,,use ,,cold ,,potatoes4 #aada4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold potatoes2 to every lb4 allow #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #b ditto of minced onions1 #a oz4 of butter1 milk4 ,mode4--,mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps2 stir in the other ingredients1 and add sufficient milk to moisten them well2 press the potatoes into a mould1 and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown1 which will be in from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,turn them out of the mould1 and serve4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,potato ,,bread4--,the manner in which this is made is very simple4 ,the adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten flour or meal2 it may1 however1 be made into cakes in the following manner3--,a small wooden frame1 nearly square1 is laid on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved1 and so constructed that1 by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove1 the cake is at once fashioned1 according to the dimensions of the mould4 ,the frame containing the farina may be almost immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan2 because1 from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat1 it will speedily admit of being safely handled3 it must not1 however1 be fried too hastily4 ,it will then eat very palatably1 and might from time to time be soaked for puddings1 like tapioca1 or might be used like the cassada-cake1 for1 when well buttered and toasted1 it will be found an excellent accompaniment to breakfast4 ,in ,scotland1 cold boiled potatoes are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal1 and an excellent cake1 or scon1 obtained4 ,,fried ,,potatoes 7,french ,fashion74 #aadb4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes1 hot butter or clarified dripping1 salt4 ,mode4--,peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices1 as nearly the same size as possible2 make some butter or dripping quite hot in a frying-pan2 put in the potatoes1 and fry them on both sides of a nice brown4 ,when they are crisp and done1 take them up1 place them on a cloth before the fire to drain the grease from them1 and serve very hot1 after sprinkling them with salt4 ,these are delicious with rump-steak1 and1 in ,france1 are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish4 ,the remains of cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe1 but the slices must be cut a little thicker4 ,time4--,sliced raw potatoes1 #e minutes2 cooked potatoes1 #e minutes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient1--#f sliced potatoes for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,german ,,method ,,of ,,cooking ,,potatoes4 #aadc4 ,,ingredients4--#h to #aj middling-sized potatoes1 #c oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a_/b pint of broth1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,mode4--,put the butter and flour into a stewpan2 stir over the fire until the butter is of a nice brown colour1 and add the broth and vinegar2 peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices1 lay them in the gravy1 and let them simmer gently until tender1 which will be in from #aj to #ae minutes1 and serve very hot4 ,a laurel-leaf simmered with the potatoes is an improvement4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,preserving ,,potatoes4--,in general1 potatoes are stored or preserved in pits1 cellars1 pies1 or camps2 but1 whatever mode is adopted1 it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry2 otherwise1 they will surely rot2 and a few rotten potatoes will contaminate a whole mass4 ,the pie1 as it is called1 consists of a trench1 lined and covered with straw2 the potatoes in it being piled in the shape of a house roof1 to the height of about three feet4 ,the camps are shallow pits1 filled and ridged up in a similar manner1 covered up with the excavated mould of the pit4 ,in ,russia and ,canada1 the potato is preserved in boxes1 in houses or cellars1 heated1 when necessary1 to a temperature one or two degrees above the freezing-point1 by stoves4 ,to keep potatoes for a considerable time1 the best way is to place them in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar3 there1 the temperature being always below that of active vegetation1 they will not sprout2 while1 not being above one or two degrees below the freezing-point1 the tubers will not be frostbitten4 ,another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop1 and keep the roots buried in earth2 a third mode is to destroy the vital principle1 by kiln-drying1 steaming1 or scalding2 a fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil1 that no change of temperature will reach them2 and thus1 being without air1 they will remain upwards of a year without vegetating4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel4 #aadd4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes1 salt and water2 to every #f potatoes allow #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #b oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 #d tablespoonfuls of gravy1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,wash the potatoes clean1 and boil them in salt and water by recipe ,no4 #aach2 when they are done1 drain them1 let them cool2 then peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices3 if these are too thin1 they would break in the sauce4 ,put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper1 salt1 gravy1 and parsley2 mix these ingredients well together1 put in the potatoes1 shake them two or three times1 that they may be well covered with the sauce1 and1 when quite hot through1 squeeze in the lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour to boil the potatoes2 #aj minutes for them to heat in the sauce4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient for #c persons4 ,seasonable all the year4 ,,mashed ,,potatoes4 #aade4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes2 to every lb4 of mashed potatoes allow #a oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of milk1 salt to taste4 ,mode4--,boil the potatoes in their skins2 when done1 drain them1 and let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire2 then peel them1 and1 as they are peeled1 put them into a clean saucepan1 and with a large fork beat them to a light paste2 add butter1 milk1 and salt in the above proportion1 and stir all the ingredients well over the fire4 ,when thoroughly hot1 dish them lightly1 and draw the fork backwards over the potatoes to make the surface rough1 and serve4 ,when dressed in this manner1 they may be browned at the top with a salamander1 or before the fire4 ,some cooks press the potatoes into moulds1 then turn them out1 and brown them in the oven3 this is a pretty mode of serving1 but it makes them heavy4 ,in whatever way they are sent to table1 care must be taken to have them quite free from lumps4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #c_/d hour to boil the potatoes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient1--#a lb4 of mashed potatoes for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,puree ,,de ,,pommes ,,de ,,terre1 or1 ,very ,thin-mashed ,potatoes4 #aadf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of mashed potatoes allow #a_/d pint of good broth or stock1 #b oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,boil the potatoes1 well drain them1 and pound them smoothly in a mortar1 or beat them up with a fork2 add the stock or broth1 and rub the potatoes through a sieve4 ,put the puree into a very clean saucepan with the butter2 stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot1 and it will then be ready to serve4 ,a puree should be rather thinner than mashed potatoes1 and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets4 ,cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the latter is not at hand4 ,a casserole of potatoes1 which is often used for ragots instead of rice1 is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly1 placing them on a dish1 and making an opening in the centre4 ,after having browned the potatoes in the oven1 the dish should be wiped clean1 and the ragout or fricasse poured in4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to boil the potatoes2 #f or #g minutes to warm the pure4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a lb4 of cooked potatoes for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,sweet ,,potato4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,potato4--,these are very numerous4 ,they differ1 says an authority1 in their leaves and bulk of haulm2 in the colour of the skin of the tubers2 in the colour of the interior1 compared with that of the skin2 in the time of ripening2 in being farinaceous1 glutinous1 or watery2 in tasting agreeably or disagreeably2 in cooking readily or tediously2 in the length of the subterraneous stolones to which the tubers are attached2 in blossoming or not blossoming2 and finally1 in the soil which they prefer4 ,the earliest varieties grown in fields are1--the ,early ,kidney1 the ,nonsuch1 the ,early ,shaw1 and the ,early ,champion4 ,this last is the most generally cultivated round ,london3 it is both mealy and hardy4 ,the sweet potato is but rarely eaten in ,britain2 but in ,america it is often served at table1 and is there very highly esteemed4 ,,potato ,,rissoles4 #aadg4 ,,ingredients4--,mashed potatoes1 salt and pepper to taste2 when liked1 a very little minced parsley1 egg1 and bread crumbs4 ,illustration3 ,,potato ,,rissoles4 ,mode4--,boil and mash the potatoes by recipe ,no4 #aade2 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and1 when liked1 a little minced parsley4 ,roll the potatoes into small balls1 cover them with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot lard for about #aj minutes2 let them drain before the fire1 dish them on a napkin1 and serve4 ,time1--#aj minutes to fry the rissoles4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by adding finely-minced tongue or ham1 or even chopped onions1 when these are liked4 ,,qualities ,,of ,,potatoes4--,in making a choice from the many varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found1 the best way is to get a sample and taste them1 and then fix upon the kind which best pleases your palate4 ,the ,shaw is one of the most esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture2 and the ,kidney and ,bread-fruit are also good sorts4 ,the ,lancashire ,pink is also a good potato1 and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of ,liverpool4 ,as late or long-keeping potatoes1 the ,tartan or ,red-apple stands very high in favour4 ,,potato ,,snow4 #aadh4 ,,ingredients4--,potatoes1 salt1 and water4 ,mode4--,choose large white potatoes1 as free from spots as possible2 boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender2 drain and dry them thoroughly by the side of the fire1 and peel them4 ,put a hot dish before the fire1 rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to this dish2 do not touch them afterwards1 or the flakes will fall1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour to boil the potatoes4 ,average cost1 #ds4 per bushel4 ,sufficient1--#f potatoes for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,potato ,,as ,,an ,,article ,,of ,,human ,,food4--,this valuable esculent1 next to wheat1 is of the greatest importance in the eye of the political economist4 ,from no other crop that can be cultivated does the public derive so much benefit2 and it has been demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat4 ,,to ,,dress ,,salsify4 #aadi4 ,,ingredients4--,salsify2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,scrape the roots gently1 so as to strip them only of their outside peel2 cut them into pieces about #d inches long1 and1 as they are peeled1 throw them into water with which has been mixed a little lemon-juice1 to prevent their discolouring4 ,put them into boiling water1 with salt1 butter1 and lemon-juice in the above proportion1 and let them boil rapidly until tender2 try them with a fork2 and1 when it penetrates easily1 they are done4 ,drain the salsify1 and serve with a good white sauce or ,french melted butter4 ,time4--#cj to #ej minutes4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,note4--,this vegetable may be also boiled1 sliced1 and fried in batter of a nice brown4 ,when crisp and a good colour1 they should be served with fried parsley in the centre of the dish1 and a little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify4 ,,salsify4--,this esculent is1 for the sake of its roots1 cultivated in gardens4 ,it belongs to the ,composite class of flowers1 which is the most extensive family in the vegetable kingdom4 ,this family is not only one of the most natural and most uniform in structure1 but there is also a great similarity existing in the properties of the plants of which it is composed4 ,generally speaking1 all composite flowers are tonic or stimulant in their medical virtues4 ,,boiled ,,sea-,,kale4 #aaej4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled ,,sea-,,kale4 ,mode4--,well wash the kale1 cut away any wormeaten pieces1 and tie it into small bunches2 put it into boiling water1 salted in the above proportion1 and let it boil quickly until tender4 ,take it out1 drain1 untie the bunches1 and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce1 a little of which may be poured over the kale4 ,sea-kale may also be parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy3 it will then take about #a_/b hour altogether4 ,time4--#ae minutes2 when liked very thoroughly done1 allow an extra #e minutes4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 per basket4 ,sufficient4--,allow #ab heads for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,february to ,june4 ,illustration3 ,,sea-,,kale4 ,,sea-,,kale4--,this plant belongs to the ,asparagus tribe1 and grows on seashores1 especially in the ,west of ,england1 and in the neighbourhood of ,dublin4 ,although it is now in very general use1 it did not come into repute till #agid4 ,it is easily cultivated1 and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous to ,britain4 ,as a vegetable1 it is stimulating to the appetite1 easily digestible1 and nutritious4 ,it is so light that the most delicate organizations may readily eat it4 ,the flowers form a favourite resort for bees1 as their petals contain a great amount of saccharine matter4 ,,boiled ,,salad4 #aaea4 ,,ingredients4--#b heads of celery1 #a pint of ,french beans1 lettuce1 and endive4 ,illustration3 ,,french ,,beans4 ,illustration3 ,,chervil4 ,mode4--,boil the celery and beans separately until tender1 and cut the celery into pieces about #b inches long4 ,put these into a salad-bowl or dish2 pour over either of the sauces ,no4 #ejf1 #ejg1 or #ejh1 and garnish the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped1 blanched endive1 or a few tufts of boiled cauliflower4 ,this composition1 if less agreeable than vegetables in their raw state1 is more wholesome2 for salads1 however they may be compounded1 when eaten uncooked1 prove to some people indigestible4 ,tarragon1 chervil1 burnet1 and boiled onion1 may be added to the above salad with advantage1 as also slices of cold meat1 poultry1 or fish4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,october4 ,,acetarious ,,vegetables4--,by the term ,acetarious vegetables1 is expressed a numerous class of plants1 of various culture and habit1 which are principally used as salads1 pickles1 and condiments4 ,they are to be considered rather as articles of comparative luxury than as ordinary food1 and are more desirable for their coolness1 or their agreeable flavour1 than for their nutritive powers4 ,,cauliflower4--,the cauliflower is less indigestible than the cabbage2 it possesses a most agreeable flavour1 and is sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy4 ,it is a wholesome vegetable1 but should be eaten moderately1 as it induces flatulence4 ,persons of weak constitutions and delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as possible4 ,they may be prepared in a variety of ways2 and1 in selecting them1 the whitest should be chosen2 those tinged with green or yellow being of indifferent quality4 ,,summer ,,salad4 #aaeb4 ,,ingredients4--#c lettuces1 #b handfuls of mustard-and-cress1 #aj young radishes1 a few slices of cucumber4 ,illustration3 ,,salad ,,in ,,bowl4 ,mode4--,let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad1 and1 if at all stale or dead-looking1 let them lie in water for an hour or two1 which will very much refresh them4 ,wash and carefully pick them over1 remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves1 and drain them thoroughly by swinging them gently in a clean cloth4 ,with a silver knife1 cut the lettuces into small pieces1 and the radishes and cucumbers into thin slices2 arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish1 with the mustard-and-cress1 and pour under1 but not over the salad1 either of the sauces ,no4 #ejf1 #ejg1 or #ejh1 and do not stir it up until it is to be eaten4 ,it may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs1 cut in slices1 sliced cucumbers1 nasturtiums1 cut vegetable-flowers1 and many other things that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish4 ,in making a good salad1 care must be taken to have the herbs freshly gathered1 and thoroughly drained before the sauce is added to them1 or it will be watery and thin4 ,young spring onions1 cut small1 are by many persons considered an improvement to salads2 but1 before these are added1 the cook should always consult the taste of her employer4 ,slices of cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient and quickly-made summer luncheon-dish2 or cold fish1 flaked1 will also be found exceedingly nice1 mixed with it4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 for a salad for #e or #f persons2 but more expensive when the herbs are forced4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,september4 ,,cucumbers4--,the cucumber is refreshing1 but neither nutritious nor digestible1 and should be excluded from the regimen of the delicate4 ,there are various modes of preparing cucumbers4 ,when gathered young1 they are called gherkins3 these1 pickled1 are much used in seasonings4 ,illustration3 ,,cucumber-,,slice4 ,,radishes4--,this is the common name given to the root of the ,raphanus satious1 one of the varieties of the cultivated horseradish4 ,there are red and white radishes2 and the ,french have also what they call violet and black ones1 of which the black are the larger4 ,radishes are composed of nearly the same constituents as turnips1 that is to say1 mostly fibre and nitrogen2 and1 being generally eaten raw1 it is on the last of these that their flavour depends4 ,they do not agree with people1 except those who are in good health1 and have active digestive powers2 for they are difficult of digestion1 and cause flatulency and wind1 and are the cause of headaches when eaten to excess4 ,besides being eaten raw1 they are sometimes1 but rarely1 boiled2 and they also serve as a pretty garnish for salads4 ,in ,china1 the radish may be found growing naturally1 without cultivation2 and may be occasionally met with in ,england as a weed1 in similar places to where the wild turnip grows2 it1 however1 thrives best in the garden1 and the ground it likes best is a deep open loam1 or a well-manured sandy soil4 ,illustration3 ,,turnip ,,radishes4 ,illustration3 ,,long ,,radishes4 ,,winter ,,salad4 #aaec4 ,,ingredients4--,endive1 mustard-and-cress1 boiled beetroot1 #c or #d hard-boiled eggs1 celery4 ,mode4--,the above ingredients form the principal constituents of a winter salad1 and may be converted into a very pretty dish1 by nicely contrasting the various colours1 and by tastefully garnishing it4 ,shred the celery into thin pieces1 after having carefully washed and cut away all wormeaten pieces2 cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free from grit1 and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish2 garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot1 both of which should be cut in slices2 and pour into the dish1 but not over the salad1 either of the sauces ,no4 #ejf1 #ejg1 or #ejh4 ,never dress a salad long before it is required for table1 as1 by standing1 it loses its freshness and pretty crisp and light appearance2 the sauce1 however1 may always be prepared a few hours beforehand1 and when required for use1 the herbs laid lightly over it4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 for a salad for #e or #f persons4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from the end of ,september to ,march4 ,,salads4--,salads are raw vegetables1 of which1 among us1 the lettuce is the most generally used2 several others1 however1 such as cresses1 celery1 onions1 beetroot1 c41 are occasionally employed4 ,as vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment on the stomach1 and as they have very little stimulative power upon that organ1 they are usually dressed with some condiments1 such as pepper1 vinegar1 salt1 mustard1 and oil4 ,respecting the use of these1 medical men disagree1 especially in reference to oil1 which is condemned by some and recommended by others4 ,,potato ,,salad4 #aaed4 ,,ingredients4--#aj or #ab cold boiled potatoes1 #d tablespoonfuls of tarragon or plain vinegar1 #f tablespoonfuls of salad-oil1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley4 ,mode4--,cut the potatoes into slices about #a_/b inch in thickness2 put these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion2 season with pepper1 salt1 and a teaspoonful of minced parsley2 stir the salad well1 that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated1 and it is ready to serve4 ,this should be made two or three hours before it is wanted for table4 ,anchovies1 olives1 or pickles may be added to this salad1 as also slices of cold beef1 fowl1 or turkey4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,chicken ,,salad4--7,see ,no4 #ica47 ,,grouse ,,salad4--7,see ,no4 #ajbj47 ,,lobster ,,salad4--7,see ,no4 #bgb47 ,,to ,,boil ,,spinach 7,english ,mode74 #aaee4 ,,ingredients4--#b pailfuls of spinach1 #b heaped tablespoonfuls of salt1 #a oz4 of butter1 pepper to taste4 ,illustration3 ,,spinach ,,garnished ,,with ,,cro,,tons4 ,mode4--,pick the spinach carefully1 and see that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it2 wash it in several waters1 and1 to prevent it being gritty1 act in the following manner3--,have ready two large pans or tubs filled with water2 put the spinach into one of these1 and thoroughly wash it2 then1 with the hands1 take out the spinach1 and put it into the other tub of water 7by this means all the grit will be left at the bottom of the tub72 wash it again1 and1 should it not be perfectly free from dirt1 repeat the process4 ,put it into a very large saucepan1 with about #a_/b pint of water1 just sufficient to keep the spinach from burning1 and the above proportion of salt4 ,press it down frequently with a wooden spoon1 that it may be done equally2 and when it has boiled for rather more than #aj minutes1 or until it is perfectly tender1 drain it in a colander1 squeeze it quite dry1 and chop it finely4 ,put the spinach into a clean stewpan1 with the butter and a seasoning of pepper2 stir the whole over the fire until quite hot2 then put it on a hot dish1 and garnish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes to boil the spinach1 #e minutes to warm with the butter4 ,average cost for the above quantity1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,spring spinach from ,march to ,july2 winter spinach from ,november to ,march4 ,note4--,grated nutmeg1 pounded mace1 or lemon-juice may also be added to enrich the flavour2 and poached eggs are also frequently served with spinach3 they should be placed on the top of it1 and it should be garnished with sippets of toasted bread4--,see coloured plate ,u4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,spinach4--,these comprise the ,strawberry spinach1 which1 under that name1 was wont to be grown in our flower-gardens2 the ,good ,king ,harry1 the ,garden ,oracle1 the ,prickly1 and the ,round1 are the varieties commonly used4 ,the ,oracle is a hardy sort1 much esteemed in ,france1 and is a native of ,tartary1 introduced in #aedh4 ,the common spinach has its leaves round1 and is softer and more succulent than any of the ,brassica tribe4 ,,spinach ,,dressed ,,with ,,cream1 a la ,francaise4 #aaef4 ,,ingredients4--#b pailfuls of spinach1 #b tablespoonfuls of salt1 #b oz4 of butter1 #h tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a small teaspoonful of pounded sugar1 a very little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,boil and drain the spinach as in recipe ,no4 #aaee2 chop it finely1 and put it into a stewpan with the butter2 stir over a gentle fire1 and1 when the butter has dried away1 add the remaining ingredients1 and simmer for about #e minutes4 ,previously to adding the cream1 boil it first1 in case it should curdle4 ,serve on a hot dish1 and garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes to boil the spinach2 #aj minutes to stew with the cream4 ,average cost for the above quantity1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,spring spinach from ,march to ,july2 winter spinach from ,november to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,spinach4 ,,spinach4--,this is a ,persian plant4 ,it has been cultivated in our gardens about two hundred years1 and is the most wholesome of vegetables4 ,it is not very nutritious1 but is very easily digested4 ,it is very light and laxative4 ,wonderful properties have been ascribed to spinach4 ,it is an excellent vegetable1 and very beneficial to health4 ,plainly dressed1 it is a resource for the poor2 prepared luxuriantly1 it is a choice dish for the rich4 ,,spinach4--,this vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the ,salsolaceae1 or saltworts1 and is classified under the head of ,spirolobeae1 with leaves shaped like worms1 and of a succulent kind4 ,in its geographical distribution it is commonly found in extratropical and temperate regions1 where they grow as weeds in waste places1 and among rubbish1 and in marshes by the seashore4 ,in the tropics the order is rarely found4 ,many of them are used as potherbs1 and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties4 ,,french ,,mode ,,of ,,dressing ,,spinach4 #aaeg4 ,,ingredients4--#b pailfuls of spinach1 #b tablespoonfuls of salt1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #h tablespoonfuls of good gravy2 when liked1 a very little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,pick1 wash1 and boil the spinach1 as in recipe ,no4 #aaee1 and when quite tender1 drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the water that hangs about it4 ,chop it very fine1 put the butter into a stewpan1 and lay the spinach over that2 stir it over a gentle fire1 and dredge in the flour4 ,add the gravy1 and let it boil quickly for a few minutes1 that it may not discolour4 ,when the flavour of nutmeg is liked1 grate some to the spinach1 and when thoroughly hot1 and the gravy has dried away a little1 serve4 ,garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes to boil the spinach2 #aj minutes to simmer in the gravy4 ,average cost for the above quantity1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,spring spinach from ,march to ,july2 winter spinach from ,october to ,february4 ,note4--,for an entremets or second-course dish1 spinach1 dressed by the above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould2 it should then be turned out quickly1 and served very hot4 ,,baked ,,tomatoes4 7,excellent47 #aaeh4 ,,ingredients4--#h or #aj tomatoes1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,take off the stalks from the tomatoes2 cut them into thick slices1 and put them into a deep baking-dish2 add a plentiful seasoning of pepper and salt1 and butter in the above proportion2 cover the whole with bread crumbs2 drop over these a little clarified butter2 bake in a moderate oven from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 and serve very hot4 ,this vegetable1 dressed as above1 is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all kinds of roast meat4 ,the tomatoes1 instead of being cut in slices1 may be baked whole2 but they will take rather longer time to cook4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 per basket4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october2 but may be had1 forced1 much earlier4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,tomato4 ,,tomatoes4--,the ,tomato is a native of tropical countries1 but is now cultivated considerably both in ,france and ,england4 ,its skin is of a brilliant red1 and its flavour1 which is somewhat sour1 has become of immense importance in the culinary art4 ,it is used both fresh and preserved4 ,when eaten fresh1 it is served as an entremets2 but its principal use is in sauce and gravy2 its flavour stimulates the appetite1 and is almost universally approved4 ,the ,tomato is a wholesome fruit1 and digests easily4 ,from ,july to ,september1 they gather the tomatoes green in ,france1 not breaking them away from the stalk2 they are then hung1 head downwards1 in a dry and not too cold place2 and there they ripen4 ,,hot ,,tomato ,,sauce1 or ,,puree ,,of ,,tomatoes4 7,see ,no4 #ebi47 ,illustration3 ,,stewed ,,tomatoes4 ,,stewed ,,tomatoes4 ,i4 #aaei4 ,,ingredients4--#h tomatoes1 pepper and salt to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,mode4--,slice the tomatoes into a lined saucepan2 season them with pepper and salt1 and place small pieces of butter on them4 ,cover the lid down closely1 and stew from #bj to #be minutes1 or until the tomatoes are perfectly tender2 add the vinegar1 stir two or three times1 and serve with any kind of roast meat1 with which they will be found a delicious accompaniment4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 per basket4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october2 but may be had1 forced1 much earlier4 ,,analysis ,,of ,,the ,,tomato4--,the fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as an esculent1 and it has been found to contain a particular acid1 a volatile oil1 a brown1 very fragrant extracto-resinous matter1 a vegeto-mineral matter1 muco-saccharine1 some salts1 and1 in all probability1 an alkaloid4 ,the whole plant has a disagreeable odour1 and its juice1 subjected to the action of the fire1 emits a vapour so powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting4 ,,ii4 #aafj4 ,,ingredients4--#h tomatoes1 about #a_/b pint of good gravy1 thickening of butter and flour1 cayenne and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,take out the stalks of the tomatoes2 put them into a wide stewpan1 pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy1 and stew gently until they are tender1 occasionally carefully turning them1 that they may be equally done4 ,thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour worked together on a plate2 let it just boil up after the thickening is added1 and serve4 ,if it be at hand1 these should be served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes1 very gentle stewing4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 per basket4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october2 but maybe had1 forced1 much earlier4 ,,the ,,tomato1 ,,or ,,love-,,apple4--,this vegetable is a native of ,mexico and ,south ,america1 but is also found in the ,east ,indies1 where it is supposed to have been introduced by the ,spaniards4 ,in this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was2 and the more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable forms in which the fruit can be prepared1 the more widely will its cultivation be extended4 ,for ketchup1 soups1 and sauces1 it is equally applicable1 and the unripe fruit makes one of the best pickles4 ,,truffles ,,au ,,naturel4 #aafa4 ,,ingredients4--,truffles1 buttered paper4 ,mode4--,select some fine truffles2 cleanse them1 by washing them in several waters with a brush1 until not a particle of sand or grit remains on them2 wrap each truffle in buttered paper1 and bake in a hot oven for quite an hour2 take off the paper1 wipe the truffles1 and serve them in a hot napkin4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost4--,not often bought in this country4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,truffles4 ,,the ,,common ,,truffle4--,this is the ,tuber cibarium of science1 and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity of their forms1 but by their chemical composition4 ,upon analysis1 they are found not only to contain the usual components of the vegetable kingdom1 such as carbon1 oxygen1 and hydrogen1 but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen2 from which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh4 ,it was long ago observed by ,dr4 ,darwin1 that all the mushrooms cooked at our tables1 as well as those used for ketchup1 possessed an animal flavour2 and soup enriched by mushrooms only has sometimes been supposed to contain meat4 ,,to ,,dress ,,truffles ,,with ,,champagne4 #aafb4 ,,ingredients4--#ab fine black truffles1 a few slices of fat bacon1 #a carrot1 #a turnip1 #b onions1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 including parsley1 #a bay-leaf1 #b cloves1 #a blade of pounded mace1 #b glasses of champagne1 #a_/b pint of stock4 ,mode4--,carefully select the truffles1 reject those that have a musty smell1 and wash them well with a brush1 in cold water only1 until perfectly clean4 ,put the bacon into a stewpan1 with the truffles and the remaining ingredients2 simmer these gently for an hour1 and let the whole cool in the stewpan4 ,when to be served1 rewarm them1 and drain them on a clean cloth2 then arrange them on a delicately white napkin1 that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles1 and serve4 ,the trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies1 stock1 sauces1 c42 and are an excellent addition to ragouts1 made dishes of fowl1 c4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost4--,not often bought in this country4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,the ,,truffle4--,the ,truffle belongs to the family of the ,mushroom4 ,it is certain that the truffle must possess1 equally with other plants1 organs of reproduction2 yet1 notwithstanding all the efforts of art and science1 it has been impossible to subject it to a regular culture4 ,truffles grow at a considerable depth under the earth1 never appearing on the surface4 ,they are found in many parts of ,france3 those of ,prigord ,magny are the most esteemed for their odour4 ,there are three varieties of the species1--the black1 the red1 and the white3 the latter are of little value4 ,the red are very rare1 and their use is restricted4 ,the black has the highest repute1 and its consumption is enormous4 ,when the peasantry go to gather truffles1 they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where they grow4 ,when that is found1 the pig turns up the surface with his snout1 and the men then dig until they find the truffles4 ,good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable perfume2 they should be light in proportion to their size1 and elastic when pressed by the finger4 ,to have them in perfection1 they should be quite fresh1 as their aroma is considerably diminished by any conserving process4 ,truffles are stimulating and beating4 ,weak stomachs digest them with difficulty4 ,some of the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more digestible2 but they should always be eaten sparingly4 ,their chief use is in seasoning and garnitures4 ,in short1 a professor has said1 ,meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes that opulence can offer to the epicure4 ,the ,truffle grows in clusters1 some inches below the surface of the soil1 and is of an irregular globular form4 ,those which grow wild in ,england are about the size of a hen's egg1 and have no roots4 ,as there is nothing to indicate the places where they are1 dogs have been trained to discriminate their scent1 by which they are discovered4 ,hogs are very fond of them1 and frequently lead to their being found1 from their rutting up the ground in search of them4 ,,italian ,,mode ,,of ,,dressing ,,truffles4 #aafc4 ,,ingredients4--#aj truffles1 #a_/d pint of salad-oil1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 a very little finely-minced garlic1 #b blades of pounded mace1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,after cleansing and brushing the truffles1 cut them into thin slices1 and put them in a baking-dish1 on a seasoning of oil1 pepper1 salt1 parsley1 garlic1 and mace in the above proportion4 ,bake them for nearly an hour1 and1 just before serving1 add the lemon-juice1 and send them to table very hot4 ,time4--,nearly #a hour4 ,average cost4--,not often bought in this country4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,where ,,truffles ,,are ,,found4--,in this country1 the common truffle is found on the downs of ,hampshire1 ,wiltshire1 and ,kent2 and they abound in dry light soils1 and more especially in oak and chestnut forests4 ,in ,france they are plentiful1 and many are imported from the south of that country and ,italy1 where they are much larger and in greater perfection3 they lose1 however1 much of their flavour by drying4 ,truffles have in ,england been tried to be propagated artificially1 but without success4 ,,truffles ,a ,l',,italienne4 #aafd4 ,,ingredients4--#aj truffles1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 #a minced shalot1 salt and pepper to taste1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 cayenne to taste4 ,mode4--,wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of a penny-piece2 put them into a saut pan1 with the parsley1 shalot1 salt1 pepper1 and #a oz4 of butter2 stir them over the fire1 that they may all be equally done1 which will be in about #aj minutes1 and drain off some of the butter2 then add a little more fresh butter1 #b tablespoonfuls of good gravy1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 and a little cayenne2 stir over the fire until the whole is on the point of boiling1 when serve4 ,time4--,altogether1 #bj minutes4 ,average cost4--,not often bought in this country4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,march4 ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,truffle4--,like the ,morel1 truffles are seldom eaten alone1 but are much used in gravies1 soups1 and ragots4 ,they are likewise dried for the winter months1 and1 when reduced to powder1 form a useful culinary ingredient2 they1 however1 have many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess4 ,their wholesomeness is1 perhaps1 questionable1 and they should be eaten with moderation4 ,,boiled ,,turnips4 #aafe4 ,,ingredients4--,turnips2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,pare the turnips1 and1 should they be very large1 divide them into quarters2 but1 unless this is the case1 let them be cooked whole4 ,put them into a saucepan of boiling water1 salted in the above proportion1 and let them boil gently until tender4 ,try them with a fork1 and1 when done1 take them up in a colander2 let them thoroughly drain1 and serve4 ,boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton1 but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole3 unless nice and young1 they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above4 ,time4--,old turnips1 #c_/d to #a-a_/d hour2 young ones1 about #ah to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per bunch4 ,sufficient4--,allow a bunch of #ab turnips for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,may be had all the year2 but in spring only useful for flavouring gravies1 c4 ,illustration3 ,,turnips4 ,,the ,,turnip4--,this vegetable is the ,brassica ,rapa of science1 and grows wild in ,england1 but cannot be brought exactly to resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state4 ,it is said to have been originally introduced from ,hanover1 and forms an excellent culinary vegetable1 much used all over ,europe1 where it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and stews4 ,they do not thrive in a hot climate2 for in ,india they1 and many more of our garden vegetables1 lose their flavour and become comparatively tasteless4 ,the ,swede is the largest variety1 but it is too coarse for the table4 ,,mashed ,,turnips4 #aaff4 ,,ingredients4--#aj or #ab large turnips2 to each #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt1 #b oz4 of butter1 cayenne or white pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,pare the turnips1 quarter them1 and put them into boiling water1 salted in the above proportion2 boil them until tender2 then drain them in a colander1 and squeeze them as dry as possible by pressing them with the back of a large plate4 ,when quite free from water1 rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander1 and put them into a very clean saucepan2 add the butter1 white pepper1 or cayenne1 and1 if necessary1 a little salt4 ,keep stirring them over the fire until the butter is well mixed with them1 and the turnips are thoroughly hot2 dish1 and serve4 ,a little cream or milk added after the turnips are pressed through the colander1 is an improvement to both the colour and flavour of this vegetable4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #c_/d hour to boil the turnips2 #aj minutes to warm them through4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per bunch4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable4--,may be had all the year2 but in spring only good for flavouring gravies4 ,,vegetables ,,reduced ,,to ,,pur,e4--,persons in the flower of youth1 having healthy stomachs1 and leading active lives1 may eat all sorts of vegetables1 without inconvenience1 save1 of course1 in excess4 ,the digestive functions possess great energy during the period of youth3 the body1 to develop itself1 needs nourishment4 ,physical exercise gives an appetite1 which it is necessary to satisfy1 and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the gastric organs4 ,as old proverb says1 ,at twenty one can digest iron4 ,but for aged persons1 the sedentary1 or the delicate1 it is quite otherwise4 ,then the gastric power has considerably diminished1 the digestive organs have lost their energy1 the process of digestion is consequently slower1 and the least excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for several days4 ,those who generally digest vegetables with difficulty1 should eat them reduced to a pulp or pure1 that is to say1 with their skins and tough fibres removed4 ,subjected to this process1 vegetables which1 when entire1 would create flatulence and wind1 are then comparatively harmless4 ,experience has established the rule1 that nourishment is not complete without the alliance of meat with vegetables4 ,we would also add1 that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety3 variety pleases the senses1 monotony is disagreeable4 ,the eye is fatigued by looking always on one object1 the ear by listening to one sound1 and the palate by tasting one flavour4 ,it is the same with the stomach3 consequently1 variety of food is one of the essentials for securing good digestion4 ,,german ,,mode ,,of ,,cooking ,,turnips4 #aafg4 ,,ingredients4--#h large turnips1 #c oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste1 rather more than #a_/b pint of weak stock or broth1 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,mode4--,make the butter hot in a stewpan1 lay in the turnips1 after having pared and cut them into dice1 and season them with pepper and salt4 ,toss them over the fire for a few minutes1 then add the broth1 and simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender4 ,brown the above proportion of flour with a little butter2 add this to the turnips1 let them simmer another #e minutes1 and serve4 ,boiled mutton is usually sent to table with this vegetable1 and may be cooked with the turnips by placing it in the midst of them3 the meat would then be very delicious1 as1 there being so little liquid with the turnips1 it would almost be steamed1 and consequently very tender4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per bunch4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable4--,may be had all the year4 ,,turnips4--,good turnips are delicate in texture1 firm1 and sweet4 ,the best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage1 uniting with the aroma a slightly acid quality1 which is completely neutralized in cooking4 ,the turnip is prepared in a variety of ways4 ,ducks stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated4 ,it is useful in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral irritations4 ,the turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft1 porous1 and stringy4 ,it is then1 consequently1 bad4 ,,turnips ,,in ,,white ,,sauce4 7,an ,entremets1 or to be served with the ,second ,course as a ,side-dish47 #aafh4 ,,ingredients4--#g or #h turnips1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of white sauce1 ,no4 #ech or #eci4 ,mode4--,peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles2 boil them in salt and water1 to which has been added a little butter1 until tender2 then take them out1 drain1 arrange them on a dish1 and pour over the white sauce made by recipe ,no4 #ech or #eci1 and to which has been added a small lump of sugar4 ,in winter1 when other vegetables are scarce1 this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish3 when approved1 a little mustard may be added to the sauce4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to boil the turnips4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per bunch4 ,sufficient for #a side-dish4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,the ,,french ,,navet4--,this is a variety of the turnip2 but1 instead of being globular1 has more the shape of the carrot4 ,its flavour being excellent1 it is much esteemed on the ,continent for soups and made dishes4 ,two or three of them will impart as much flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will4 ,accordingly1 when stewed in gravy1 they are greatly relished4 ,this flavour resides in the rind1 which is not cut off1 but scraped4 ,this variety was once grown in ,england1 but now it is rarely found in our gardens1 though highly deserving of a place there4 ,it is of a yellowish-white colour1 and is sometimes imported to the ,london market4 ,,boiled ,,turnip ,,greens4 #aafi4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 turnip-greens4 ,mode4--,wash the greens well in two or three waters1 and pick off all the decayed and dead leaves2 tie them in small bunches1 and put them into plenty of boiling water1 salted in the above proportion4 ,keep them boiling quickly1 with the lid of the saucepan uncovered1 and when tender1 pour them into a colander2 let them drain1 arrange them in a vegetable-dish1 remove the string that the greens were tied with1 and serve4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 for a dish for #c persons4 ,seasonable in ,march1 ,april1 and ,may4 ,,cabbage1 ,,turnip-,,tops1 ,,and ,,greens4--,all the cabbage tribe1 which comprises coleworts1 brocoli1 cauliflower1 sprouts1 and turnip-tops1 in order to be delicate1 should be dressed young1 when they have a rapid growth2 but1 if they have stood the summer1 in order to be tender1 they should be allowed to have a touch of frost4 ,the cabbage contains much vegetable albumen1 and several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass4 ,cabbage is heavy1 and a long time digesting1 which has led to a belief that it is very nourishing4 ,it is only fit food for robust and active persons2 the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it4 ,cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways3 it serves as a garniture to several recherch dishes1--partridge and cabbage for example4 ,bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish2 but only a good stomach can digest it4 ,,boiled ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 #aagj4 ,,ingredients4--,to each #a_/b gallon of water1 allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt2 vegetable marrows4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,on ,,toast4 ,mode4--,have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 salted in the above proportion2 put in the marrows after peeling them1 and boil them until quite tender4 ,take them up with a slice1 halve1 and1 should they be very large1 quarter them4 ,dish them on toast1 and send to table with them a tureen of melted butter1 or1 in lieu of this1 a small pat of salt butter4 ,large vegetable marrows may be preserved throughout the winter by storing them in a dry place2 when wanted for use1 a few slices should be cut and boiled in the same manner as above2 but1 when once begun1 the marrow must be eaten quickly1 as it keeps but a short time after it is cut4 ,vegetable marrows are also very delicious mashed3 they should be boiled1 then drained1 and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon4 ,heat them in a saucepan1 add a seasoning of salt and pepper1 and a small piece of butter1 and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as a garnish4 ,time4--,young vegetable marrows #aj to #bj minutes2 old ones1 #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 per dozen4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a moderate-sized marrow for each person4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september2 but may be preserved all the winter4 ,,fried ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 #aaga4 ,,ingredients4--#c medium-sized vegetable marrows1 egg and bread crumbs1 hot lard4 ,mode4--,peel1 and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water2 then drain them and cut them in quarters1 and take out the seeds4 ,when thoroughly drained1 brush the marrows over with egg1 and sprinkle with bread crumbs2 have ready some hot lard1 fry the marrow in this1 and1 when of a nice brown1 dish2 sprinkle over a little salt and pepper1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to boil the marrow1 #g minutes to fry it4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 per dozen4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 ,,the ,,vegetable ,,marrow4--,this vegetable is now extensively used1 and belongs to the ,cucurbits4 ,it is the ,c4 ovifera of science1 and1 like the melon1 gourd1 cucumber1 and squash1 is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe4 ,of the nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of the cucumber4 ,,cut ,,vegetables ,,for ,,soups1 c4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable-,,cutter4 #aagb4 ,the annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vegetables for soups1 ragouts1 stews1 c42 carrots and turnips being the usual vegetables for which this utensil is used4 ,cut the vegetables into slices about #a_/d inch in thickness1 stamp them out with the cutter1 and boil them for a few minutes in salt and water1 until tender4 ,turnips should be cut in rather thicker slices than carrots1 on account of the former boiling more quickly to a pulp than the latter4 ,,carrots4--,several species of carrots are cultivated1--the red1 the yellow1 and the which4 ,those known as the ,crecy carrots are considered the best1 and are very sweet4 ,the carrot has been classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables1 and as difficult of digestion4 ,when the root becomes old1 it is almost as hard as wood2 but the young carrot1 which has not reached its full growth1 is tender1 relishing1 nutritious1 and digests well when properly cooked4 ,,vegetable ,,marrows ,,in ,,white ,,sauce4 #aagc4 ,,ingredients4--#d or #e moderate-sized marrows1 #a_/b pint of white sauce1 ,no4 #eci4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,in ,,white ,,sauce4 ,mode4--,pare the marrows2 cut them in halves1 and shape each half at the top in a point1 leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand upright in the dish4 ,boil the marrows in salt and water until tender2 take them up very carefully1 and arrange them on a hot dish4 ,have ready #a_/b pint of white sauce1 made by recipe ,no4 #eci2 pour this over the marrows1 and serve4 ,time4--,from #ae to #bj minutes to boil the marrows4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 per dozen4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,,boiled ,,indian ,,wheat or ,,maize4 #aagd4 ,,ingredients4--,the ears of young and green ,indian wheat2 to every #a_/b gallon of water allow #a heaped tablespoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,this vegetable1 which makes one of the most delicious dishes brought to table1 is unfortunately very rarely seen in ,britain2 and we wonder that1 in the gardens of the wealthy1 it is not invariably cultivated4 ,our sun1 it is true1 possesses hardly power sufficient to ripen maize2 but1 with well-prepared ground1 and in a favourable position1 it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumn to serve as a vegetable4 ,the outside sheath being taken off and the waving fibres removed1 let the ears be placed in boiling water1 where they should remain for about #be minutes 7a longer time may be necessary for larger ears than ordinary72 and1 when sufficiently boiled and well drained1 they may be sent to table whole1 and with a piece of toast underneath them4 ,melted butter should be served with them4 ,time4--#be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost4--,seldom bought4 ,sufficient1--#a ear for each person4 ,seasonable in autumn4 ,note4--,william ,cobbett1 the ,english radical writer and politician1 was a great cultivator and admirer of maize1 and constantly ate it as a vegetable1 boiled4 ,we believe he printed a special recipe for it1 but we have been unable to lay our hands on it4 ,mr4 ,buchanan1 the present president of the ,united ,states1 was in the habit1 when ambassador here1 of receiving a supply of ,indian corn from ,america in hermetically-sealed cases2 and the publisher of this work remembers1 with considerable satisfaction1 his introduction to a dish of this vegetable1 when in ,america4 ,he found it to combine the excellences of the young green pea and the finest asparagus2 but he felt at first slightly awkward in holding the large ear with one hand1 whilst the other had to be employed in cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,puddings ,,and ,,pastry4 #aage4 ,,puddings ,,and ,,pastry1 familiar as they may be1 and unimportant as they may be held in the estimation of some1 are yet intimately connected with the development of agricultural resources in reference to the cereal grasses4 ,when they began to be made is uncertain2 but we may safely presume1 that a simple form of pudding was amongst the first dishes made after discovering a mode of grinding wheat into flour4 ,traditional history enables us to trace man back to the time of the ,deluge4 ,after that event he seems to have recovered himself in the central parts of ,asia1 and to have first risen to eminence in the arts of civilization on the banks of the ,nile4 ,from this region1 ,greece1 ,carthage1 and some other parts along the shores of the ,mediterranean ,sea1 were colonized4 ,in process of time1 ,greece gave to the ,romans the arts which she had thus received from ,egypt1 and these subsequently diffused them over ,europe4 ,how these were carried to or developed in ,india and ,china1 is not so well ascertained2 and in ,america their ancient existence rests only on very indistinct traditions4 ,as to who was the real discoverer of the use of corn1 we have no authentic knowledge4 ,the traditions of different countries ascribe it to various fabulous personages1 whose names it is here unnecessary to introduce4 ,in ,egypt1 however1 corn must have grown abundantly2 for ,abraham1 and after him ,jacob1 had recourse to that country for supplies during times of famine4 #aagf4 ,,the ,,habits ,,of ,a ,,people1 to a great extent1 are formed by the climate in which they live1 and by the native or cultivated productions in which their country abounds4 ,thus we find that the agricultural produce of the ancient ,egyptians is pretty much the same as that of the present day1 and the habits of the people are not materially altered4 ,in ,greece1 the products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds of grains and legumes as are cultivated at present1 with the vine1 the fig1 the olive1 the apple1 and other fruits4 ,so with the ,romans1 and so with other nations4 ,as to the different modes of artificially preparing those to please the taste1 it is only necessary to say that they arise from the universal desire of novelty1 characteristic of man in the development of his social conditions4 ,thus has arisen the whole science of cookery1 and thus arose the art of making puddings4 ,the porridge of the ,scotch is nothing more than a species of hasty pudding1 composed of oatmeal1 salt1 and water2 and the red pottage for which ,esau sold his birthright1 must have been something similar4 ,the barley-gruel of the ,lacedaemonians1 of the ,athenian gladiators and common people1 was the same1 with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond the simplicity of ,scottish fare4 ,here is the ancient recipe for the ,athenian national dish3--,dry near the fire1 in the oven1 twenty pounds of barley-flour2 then parch it2 add three pounds of linseed-meal1 half a pound of coriander-seed1 two ounces of salt1 and the quantity of water necessary4 ,to this sometimes a little millet was added1 in order to give the paste greater cohesion and delicacy4 #aagg4 ,,oatmeal ,,amongst ,,the ,,greeks ,,and ,,romans was highly esteemed1 as was also rice1 which they considered as beneficial to the chest4 ,they also held in high repute the ,irion1 or ,indian wheat of the moderns4 ,the flour of this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding1 and1 parched or roasted1 as eaten with a little salt4 ,the ,spelt1 or ,red wheat1 was likewise esteemed1 and its flour formed the basis of the ,carthaginian pudding1 for which we here give the scientific recipe3--,put a pound of red-wheat flour into water1 and when it has steeped some time1 transfer it to a wooden bowl4 ,add three pounds of cream cheese1 half a pound of honey1 and one egg4 ,beat the whole together1 and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan4 ,should this be considered unpalatable1 another form has been recommended4 ,sift the flour1 and1 with some water1 put it into a wooden vessel1 and1 for ten days1 renew the water twice each day4 ,at the end of that period1 press out the water and place the paste in another vessel4 ,it is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees1 and passed through a piece of new linen4 ,repeat this last operation1 then dry the mass in the sun and boil it in milk4 ,season according to taste4 ,these are specimens of the puddings of antiquity1 and this last recipe was held in especial favour by the ,romans4 #aagh4 ,,however ,,great ,,may ,,have ,,been ,,the ,,qualifications of the ancients1 however1 in the art of pudding-making1 we apprehend that such preparations as gave gratification to their palates1 would have generally found little favour amongst the insulated inhabitants of ,great ,britain4 ,here1 from the simple suet dumpling up to the most complicated ,christmas production1 the grand feature of substantiality is primarily attended to4 ,variety in the ingredients1 we think1 is held only of secondary consideration with the great body of the people1 provided that the whole is agreeable and of sufficient abundance4 #aagi4 ,,although ,,from ,,puddings ,,to ,,pastry is but a step1 it requires a higher degree of art to make the one than to make the other4 ,indeed1 pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science4 ,it unceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight as well as to the taste2 with erecting graceful monuments1 miniature fortresses1 and all kinds of architectural imitations1 composed of the sweetest and most agreeable products of all climates and countries4 ,at a very early period1 the ,orientals were acquainted with the art of manipulating in pastry2 but they by no means attained to the taste1 variety1 and splendour of design1 by which it is characterized amongst the moderns4 ,at first it generally consisted of certain mixtures of flour1 oil1 and honey1 to which it was confined for centuries1 even among the southern nations of the ,european continent4 ,at the commencement of the middle ages1 a change began to take place in the art of mixing it4 ,eggs1 butter1 and salt came into repute in the making of paste1 which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat1 seasoned with spices4 ,this advance attained1 the next step was to inclose cream1 fruit1 and marmalades2 and the next1 to build pyramids and castles2 when the summit of the art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have been achieved4 ,,directions ,,in ,,connection ,,with ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,puddings ,,and ,,pastry4 #aahj4 ,a few general remarks respecting the various ingredients of which puddings and pastry are composed1 may be acceptable as preliminary to the recipes in this department of ,household ,management4 #aaha4 ,flour should be of the best quality1 and perfectly dry1 and sifted before being used2 if in the least damp1 the paste made from it will certainly be heavy4 #aahb4 ,butter1 unless fresh is used1 should be washed from the salt1 and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth1 to get out all the water and buttermilk1 which1 if left in1 assists to make the paste heavy4 #aahc4 ,lard should be perfectly sweet1 which may be ascertained by cutting the bladder through1 and1 if the knife smells sweet1 the lard is good4 #aahd4 ,suet should be finely chopped1 perfectly free from skin1 and quite sweet2 during the process of chopping1 it should be lightly dredged with flour1 which prevents the pieces from sticking together4 ,beef suet is considered the best2 but veal suet1 or the outside fat of a loin or neck of mutton1 makes good crusts2 as also the skimmings in which a joint of mutton has been boiled1 but without vegetables4 #aahe4 ,clarified ,beef ,dripping1 directions for which will be found in recipes ,nos4 #fba and #fbb1 answers very well for kitchen pies1 puddings1 cakes1 or for family use4 ,a very good short crust may be made by mixing with it a small quantity of moist sugar2 but care must be taken to use the dripping sparingly1 or a very disagreeable flavour will be imparted to the paste4 #aahf4 ,strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making2 all the utensils used should be perfectly free from dust and dirt1 and the things required for pastry1 kept entirely for that purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,paste-,,board ,,and ,,rolling-,,pin4 #aahg4 ,in mixing paste1 add the water very gradually1 work the whole together with the knife-blade1 and knead it until perfectly smooth4 ,those who are inexperienced in pastry-making1 should work the butter in by breaking it in small pieces and covering the paste rolled out4 ,it should then be dredged with flour1 and the ends folded over and rolled out very thin again3 this process must be repeated until all the butter is used4 ,illustration3 ,,paste-,,pincers ,,and ,,jagger1 ,,for ,,ornamenting ,,the ,,edges ,,of ,,pie-,,crusts4 #aahh4 ,the art of making paste requires much practice1 dexterity1 and skill3 it should be touched as lightly as possible1 made with cool hands and in a cool place 7a marble slab is better than a board for the purpose71 and the coolest part of the house should be selected for the process during warm weather4 #aahi4 ,to insure rich paste being light1 great expedition must be used in the making and baking2 for if it stand long before it is put in the oven1 it becomes flat and heavy4 ,illustration3 ,,paste-,,cutter ,,and ,,corner-,,cutter4 ,illustration3 ,,ornamental-,,paste ,,cutter4 #aaij4 ,puff-paste requires a brisk oven1 but not too hot1 or it would blacken the crust2 on the other hand1 if the oven be too slack1 the paste will be soddened1 and will not rise1 nor will it have any colour4 ,tart-tins1 cake-moulds1 dishes for baked puddings1 pattypans1 c41 should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put in them3 things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper4 ,raised-pie paste should have a soaking heat1 and paste glazed must have rather a slack oven1 that the icing be not scorched4 ,it is better to ice tarts1 c4 when they are three-parts baked4 ,illustration3 ,,patty-,,pans1 ,,plain ,,and ,,fluted4 ,illustration3 ,,pie-,,dish4 ,illustration3 ,,raised-,,pie ,,mould4 ,illustration3 ,,raised-,,pie ,,mould1 ,,open4 #aaia4 ,to ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree for puff-paste1 put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the whole1 and then the heat can thus be judged of4 #aaib4 ,the freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance1 as one bad article will taint the whole mixture4 #aaic4 ,when the freshness of eggs is doubtful1 break each one separately in a cup1 before mixing them altogether4 ,should there be a bad one amongst them1 it can be thrown away2 whereas1 if mixed with the good ones1 the entire quantity would be spoiled4 ,the yolks and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter4 #aaid4 ,raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked1 and1 in many cases1 stoned4 ,currants should be well washed1 pressed in a cloth1 and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry2 they should then be picked carefully over1 and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them4 ,to plump them1 some cooks pour boiling water over them1 and then dry them before the fire4 #aaie4 ,batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps4 ,to insure this1 first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk1 and add the remainder by degrees4 ,should the pudding be very lumpy1 it may be strained through a hair sieve4 #aaif4 ,all boiled puddings should be put on in boiling water1 which must not be allowed to stop simmering1 and the pudding must always be covered with the water2 if requisite1 the saucepan should be kept filled up4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled-,,pudding ,,mould4 #aaig4 ,to prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan1 place a small plate or saucer underneath it1 and set the pan on a trivet over the fire4 ,if a mould is used1 this precaution is not necessary2 but care must be taken to keep the pudding well covered with water4 #aaih4 ,for dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot1 dip it into a basin of cold water1 and the cloth will then not adhere to it4 ,great expedition is necessary in sending puddings to table1 as1 by standing1 they quickly become heavy1 batter puddings particularly4 ,illustration3 ,,boiled-,,pudding ,,mould4 #aaii4 ,for baked or boiled puddings1 the moulds1 cups1 or basins1 should be always buttered before the mixture is put in them1 and they should be put into the saucepan directly they are filled4 #abjj4 ,scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness of pudding-cloths1 as1 from neglect in this particular1 the outsides of boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeably4 ,as soon as possible after it is taken off the pudding1 it should be soaked in water1 and then well washed1 without soap1 unless it be very greasy4 ,it should be dried out of doors1 then folded up and kept in a dry place4 ,when wanted for use1 dip it in boiling water1 and dredge it slightly with flour4 ,illustration3 ,,pudding-,,basin4 #abja4 ,the dry ingredients for puddings are better for being mixed some time before they are wanted2 the liquid portion should only be added just before the pudding is put into the saucepan4 #abjb4 ,a pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of puddings2 but this ingredient should be added very sparingly1 as the flavour should not be detected4 #abjc4 ,when baked puddings are sufficiently solid1 turn them out of the dish they were baked in1 bottom uppermost1 and strew over them fine sifted sugar4 #abjd4 ,when pastry or baked puddings are not done through1 and yet the outside is sufficiently brown1 cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly cooked3 this prevents them from getting burnt4 ,illustration ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,very ,,good ,,puff-,,paste4 #abje4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a lb4 of butter1 and not quite #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,carefully weigh the flour and butter1 and have the exact proportion2 squeeze the butter well1 to extract the water from it1 and afterwards wring it in a clean cloth1 that no moisture may remain4 ,sift the flour2 see that it is perfectly dry1 and proceed in the following manner to make the paste1 using a very clean paste-board and rolling-pin3--,supposing the quantity to be #a lb4 of flour1 work the whole into a smooth paste1 with not quite #a_/b pint of water1 using a knife to mix it with3 the proportion of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the discretion of the cook2 if too much be added1 the paste1 when baked1 will be tough4 ,roll it out until it is of an equal thickness of about an inch2 break #d oz4 of the butter into small pieces2 place these on the paste1 sift over it a little flour1 fold it over1 roll out again1 and put another #d oz4 of butter4 ,repeat the rolling and buttering until the paste has been rolled out #d times1 or equal quantities of flour and butter have been used4 ,do not omit1 every time the paste is rolled out1 to dredge a little flour over that and the rolling-pin1 to prevent both from sticking4 ,handle the paste as lightly as possible1 and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin4 ,the next thing to be considered is the oven1 as the baking of pastry requires particular attention4 ,do not put it into the oven until it is sufficiently hot to raise the paste2 for the best-prepared paste1 if not properly baked1 will be good for nothing4 ,brushing the paste as often as rolled out1 and the pieces of butter placed thereon1 with the white of an egg1 assists it to rise in leaves or flakes4 ,as this is the great beauty of puff-paste1 it is as well to try this method4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 per lb4 ,,butter4--,about the second century of the ,christian era1 butter was placed by ,galen amongst the useful medical agents2 and about a century before him1 ,dioscorides mentioned that he had noticed that fresh butter1 made of ewes' and goats' milk1 was served at meals instead of oil1 and that it took the place of fat in making pastry4 ,thus we have undoubted authority that1 eighteen hundred years ago1 there existed a knowledge of the useful qualities of butter4 ,the ,romans seem to have set about making it much as we do2 for ,pliny tells us1 ,butter is made from milk2 and the use of this element1 so much sought after by barbarous nations1 distinguished the rich from the common people4 ,it is obtained principally from cows' milk2 that from ewes is the fattest2 goats also supply some4 ,it is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with narrow openings3 a little water is added4 ,,medium ,,puff-,,paste4 #abjf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #h oz4 of butter1 #d oz4 of lard1 not quite #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,this paste may be made by the directions in the preceding recipe1 only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion of it4 ,mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite #a_/b pint of water2 then roll it out #c times1 the first time covering the paste with butter1 the second with lard1 and the third with butter4 ,keep the rolling-pin and paste slightly dredged with flour1 to prevent them from sticking1 and it will be ready for use4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,,butter ,,in ,,haste4--,in his ,history of ,food1 ,soyer says that to obtain butter instantly1 it is only necessary1 in summer1 to put new milk into a bottle1 some hours after it has been taken from the cow1 and shake it briskly4 ,the clots which are thus formed should be thrown into a sieve1 washed and pressed together1 and they constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can possibly be made4 ,,common ,,paste1 for ,family ,pies4 #abjg4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 rather more than #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,rub the butter lightly into the flour1 and mix it to a smooth paste with the water2 roll it out #b or #c times1 and it will be ready for use4 ,this paste may be converted into an excellent short crust for sweet tart1 by adding to the flour1 after the butter is rubbed in1 #b tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,,to ,,keep ,,butter ,,fresh4--,one of the best means to preserve butter fresh is1 first to completely press out all the buttermilk1 then to keep it under water1 renewing the water frequently1 and to remove it from the influence of heat and air1 by wrapping it in a wet cloth4 ,,french ,,puff-,,paste1 or ,,feuilletage4 7,founded on ,m4 ,ude's ,recipe47 #abjh4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of flour and butter--say #a lb4 of each2 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 the yolks of #b eggs1 rather more than #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,weigh the flour2 ascertain that it is perfectly dry1 and sift it2 squeeze all the water from the butter1 and wring it in a clean cloth till there is no moisture remaining4 ,put the flour on the paste-board1 work lightly into it #b oz4 of the butter1 and then make a hole in the centre2 into this well put the yolks of #b eggs1 the salt1 and about #a_/d pint of water 7the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the cook1 as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of it72 knead up the paste quickly and lightly1 and1 when quite smooth1 roll it out square to the thickness of about #a_/b inch4 ,presuming that the butter is perfectly free from moisture1 and as cool as possible1 roll it into a ball1 and place this ball of butter on the paste2 fold the paste over the butter all round1 and secure it by wrapping it well all over4 ,flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it is quite thin1 but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through1 and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during the process of making it4 ,this rolling gives it the first turn4 ,now fold the paste in three1 and roll out again1 and1 should the weather be very warm1 put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the several turns2 for1 unless this is particularly attended to1 the paste will be spoiled4 ,roll out the paste again twice1 put it by to cool1 then roll it out twice more1 which will make #f turnings in all4 ,now fold the paste in two1 and it will be ready for use4 ,if properly baked and well made1 this crust will be delicious1 and should rise in the oven about #e or #f inches4 ,the paste should be made rather firm in the first instance1 as the ball of butter is liable to break through4 ,great attention must also be paid to keeping the butter very cool1 as1 if this is in a liquid and soft state1 the paste will not answer at all4 ,should the cook be dexterous enough to succeed in making this1 the paste will have a much better appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butter into #d parts1 and placing it over the rolled-out paste2 but1 until experience has been acquired1 we recommend puff-paste made by recipe ,no4 #abje4 ,the above paste is used for vols-au-vent1 small articles of pastry1 and1 in fact1 everything that requires very light crust4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,with ,,rancid ,,butter4--,when butter has become very rancid1 it should be melted several times by a moderate heat1 with or without the addition of water1 and as soon as it has been well kneaded1 after the cooling1 in order to extract any water it may have retained1 it should be put into brown freestone pots1 sheltered from the contact of the air4 ,the ,french often add to it1 after it has been melted1 a piece of toasted bread1 which helps to destroy the tendency of the batter to rancidity4 ,,soyer',s ,,recipe ,,for ,,puff-,,paste4 #abji4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow the yolk of #a egg1 the juice of #a lemon1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 cold water1 #a lb4 of fresh butter4 ,mode4--,put the flour on to the paste-board2 make a hole in the centre1 into which put the yolk of the egg1 the lemon-juice1 and salt2 mix the whole with cold water 7this should be iced in summer1 if convenient7 into a soft flexible paste1 with the right hand1 and handle it as little as possible2 then squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter1 wring it in a cloth1 and roll out the paste2 place the butter on this1 and fold the edges of the paste over1 so as to hide it2 roll it out again to the thickness of #a_/d inch2 fold over one third1 over which again pass the rolling-pin2 then fold over the other third1 thus forming a square2 place it with the ends1 top1 and bottom before you1 shaking a little flour both under and over1 and repeat the rolls and turns twice again1 as before4 ,flour a baking-sheet1 put the paste on this1 and let it remain on ice or in some cool place for #a_/b hour2 then roll twice more1 turning it as before2 place it again upon the ice for #a_/d hour1 give it #b more rolls1 making #g in all1 and it is ready for use when required4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,,very ,,good ,,short ,,crust ,,for ,,fruit ,,tarts4 #abaj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #c_/d lb4 of butter1 #a tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 #a_/c pint of water4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour1 after having ascertained that the latter is perfectly dry2 add the sugar1 and mix the whole into a stiff paste1 with about #a_/c pint of water4 ,roll it out two or three times1 folding the paste over each time1 and it will be ready for use4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 per lb4 ,,another ,,good ,,short ,,crust4 #abaa4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #h oz4 of butter1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #b oz4 of sifted sugar1 about #a_/d pint of milk4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour1 add the sugar1 and mix the whole as lightly as possible to a smooth paste1 with the yolks of eggs well beaten1 and the milk4 ,the proportion of the latter ingredient must be judged of by the size of the eggs3 if these are large1 so much will not be required1 and more if the eggs are smaller4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,,sugar ,,and ,,beetroot4--,there are two sorts of ,beet1--white and red2 occasionally1 in the south1 a yellow variety is met with4 ,beetroot contains twenty parts sugar4 ,everybody knows that the beet has competed with the sugar-cane1 and a great part of the ,french sugar is manufactured from beet4 ,beetroot has a refreshing1 composing1 and slightly purgative quality4 ,the young leaves1 when cooked1 are a substitute for spinach2 they are also useful for mixing with sorrel1 to lessen its acidity4 ,the large ribs of the leaves are serviceable in various culinary preparations2 the root also may be prepared in several ways1 but its most general use is in salad4 ,some writers upon the subject have expressed their opinion that beetroot is easily digested1 but those who have taken pains to carefully analyze its qualities make quite a contrary statement4 ,youth1 of course1 can digest it2 but to persons of a certain age beet is very indigestible1 or rather1 it does not digest at all4 ,it is not the sugary pulp which is indigestible1 but its fibrous network that resists the action of the gastric organs4 ,thus1 when the root is reduced to a puree1 almost any person may eat it4 ,,french ,,sugar4--,it had long been thought that tropical heat was not necessary to form sugar1 and1 about #agdj1 it was discovered that many plants of the temperate zone1 and amongst others the beet1 contained it4 ,towards the beginning of the #aith century1 circumstances having1 in ,france1 made sugar scarce1 and consequently dear1 the government caused inquiries to be instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it4 ,accordingly1 it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole vegetable kingdom2 that it is to be found in the grape1 chestnut1 potato2 but that1 far above all1 the beet contains it in a large proportion4 ,thus the beet became an object of the most careful culture2 and many experiments went to prove that in this respect the old world was independent of the new4 ,many manufactories came into existence in all parts of ,france1 and the making of sugar became naturalized in that country4 ,,common ,,short ,,crust4 #abab4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pound of flour allow #b oz4 of sifted sugar1 #c oz4 of butter1 about #a_/b pint of boiling milk4 ,mode4--,crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible1 add the sugar1 and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boiling milk4 ,roll it out thin1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,,qualities ,,of ,,sugar4--,sugars obtained from various plants are in fact1 of the same nature1 and have no intrinsic difference when they have become equally purified by the same processes4 ,taste1 crystallization1 colour1 weight1 are absolutely identical2 and the most accurate observer cannot distinguish the one from the other4 ,,butter ,,crust1 for ,boiled ,puddings4 #abac4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #f oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,with a knife1 work the flour to a smooth paste with #a_/b pint of water2 roll the crust out rather thin2 place the butter over it in small pieces2 dredge lightly over it some flour1 and fold the paste over2 repeat the rolling once more1 and the crust will be ready for use4 ,it may be enriched by adding another #b oz4 of butter2 but1 for ordinary purposes1 the above quantity will be found quite sufficient4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per lb4 ,,dripping ,,crust1 for ,kitchen ,puddings1 ,pies1 c4 #abad4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #f oz4 of clarified beef dripping1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,after having clarified the dripping1 by either of the recipes ,no4 #fba or #fbb1 weigh it1 and to every lb4 of flour allow the above proportion of dripping4 ,with a knife1 work the flour into a smooth paste with the water1 rolling it out #c times1 each time placing on the crust #b oz4 of the dripping1 broken into small pieces4 ,if this paste is lightly made1 if good dripping is used1 and not too much of it1 it will be found good2 and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine moist sugar1 it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit pies4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per pound4 ,,water3--,,what ,,the ,,ancients ,,thought ,,of ,,it4--,all the nations of antiquity possessed great veneration for water3 thus1 the ,egyptians offered prayers and homage to water1 and the ,nile was an especial object of their adoration2 the ,persians would not wash their hands2 the ,scythians honoured the ,danube2 the ,greeks and ,romans erected altars to the fountains and rivers2 and some of the architectural embellishments executed for fountains in ,greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy4 ,the purity of the water was a great object of the care of the ancients2 and we learn that the ,athenians appointed four officers to keep watch and ward over the water in their city4 ,these men had to keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs1 so that the water might be preserved pure and limpid4 ,like officers were appointed in other ,greek cities4 ,,suet ,,crust1 for ,pies or ,puddings4 #abae4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #e or #f oz4 of beef suet1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,free the suet from skin and shreds2 chop it extremely fine1 and rub it well into the flour2 work the whole to a smooth paste with the above proportion of water2 roll it out1 and it is ready for use4 ,this crust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes1 but when a better one is desired1 use from #a_/b to #c_/d lb4 of suet to every lb4 of flour4 ,some cooks1 for rich crusts1 pound the suet in a mortar1 with a small quantity of butter4 ,it should then be laid on the paste in small pieces1 the same as for puff-crust1 and will be found exceedingly nice for hot tarts4 #e oz4 of suet to every lb4 of flour will make a very good crust2 and even #a_/d lb4 will answer very well for children1 or where the crust is wanted very plain4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 per lb4 ,,pate ,,brisee1 or ,,french ,,crust1 for ,raised ,pies4 #abaf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #b eggs1 #a_/c pint of water1 #f oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,spread the flour1 which should be sifted and thoroughly dry1 on the paste-board2 make a hole in the centre1 into which put the butter2 work it lightly into the flour1 and when quite fine1 add the salt2 work the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs 7yolks and whites7 and water1 and make it very firm4 ,knead the paste well1 and let it be rather stiff1 that the sides of the pie may be easily raised1 and that they do not afterwards tumble or shrink4 ,average cost1 #as4 per lb4 ,note4--,this paste may be very much enriched by making it with equal quantities of flour and butter2 but then it is not so easily raised as when made plainer4 ,,water ,,supply ,,in ,,rome4--,nothing in ,italy is more extraordinary than the remains of the ancient aqueducts4 ,at first1 the ,romans were contented with the water from the ,tiber4 ,ancus ,martius was the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to convey the water of the fountain of ,piconia from ,tibur to ,rome1 a distance of some #cc1jjj paces4 ,appius ,claudius continued the good work1 and to him is due the completion of the celebrated ,appian ,way4 ,in time1 the gigantic waterways greatly multiplied1 and1 by the reign of ,nero1 there were constructed nine principal aqueducts1 the pipes of which were of bricks1 baked tiles1 stone1 lead1 or wood4 ,according to the calculation of ,vigenerus1 half a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into ,rome every day1 by upwards of #aj1jjj small pipes not one-third of an inch in diameter4 ,the water was received in large closed basins1 above which rose splendid monuments3 these basins supplied other subterranean conduits1 connected with various quarters of the city1 and these conveyed water to small reservoirs furnished with taps for the exclusive use of certain streets4 ,the water which was not drinkable ran out1 by means of large pipes1 into extensive inclosures1 where it served to water cattle4 ,at these places the people wished their linen2 and here1 too1 was a supply of the necessary element in case of fire4 ,,common ,,crust ,,for ,,raised ,,pies4 #abag4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a_/b pint of water1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a-a_/b oz4 of lard1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,put into a saucepan the water2 when it boils1 add the butter and lard2 and when these are melted1 make a hole in the middle of the flour2 pour in the water gradually2 beat it well with a wooden spoon1 and be particular in not making the paste too soft4 ,when it is well mixed1 knead it with the hands until quite stiff1 dredging a little flour over the paste and board1 to prevent them from sticking4 ,when it is well kneaded1 place it before the fire1 with a cloth covered over it1 for a few minutes2 it will then be more easily worked into shape4 ,this paste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one1 but is worked with greater facility1 and answers just as well for raised pies1 for the crust is seldom eaten4 ,average cost1 #e;d1 per lb4 ,,lard ,,or ,,flead ,,crust4 #abah4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a_/b lb4 of lard or flead1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,clear the flead free from skin1 and slice it into thin flakes2 rub it into the flour1 add the salt1 and work the whole into a smooth paste1 with the above proportion of water2 fold the paste over two or three times1 beat it well with the rolling-pin1 roll it out1 and it will be ready for use4 ,the crust made from this will be found extremely light1 and may be made into cakes or tarts2 it may also be very much enriched by adding more flead to the same proportion of flour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per lb4 ,,nutritious ,,qualities ,,of ,,flour4--,the gluten of grain and the albumen of vegetable juices are identical in composition with the albumen of blood4 ,vegetable caseine has also the composition of animal caseine4 ,the finest wheat flour contains more starch than the coarser2 the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in gluten4 ,rye and rye-bread contain a substance resembling starch-gum 7or dextrine1 as it is called7 in its properties1 which is very easily converted into sugar4 ,the starch of barley approaches in many properties to cellulose1 and is1 therefore1 less digestible4 ,oats are particularly rich in plastic substances2 ,scotch oats are richer than those grown in ,england or in ,germany4 ,this kind of grain contains in its ashes1 after deduction of the silica of the husks1 very nearly the same ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice of flesh4 ,fine ,american flour is one of the varieties which is richest in gluten1 and is consequently one of the most nutritious4 ,,almond ,,cheesecakes4 #abai4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of sweet almonds1 #d bitter ones1 #c eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 the rind of #a_/d lemon1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #c oz4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar1 with a little rose- or spring-water2 stir in the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and the butter1 which should be warmed2 add the grated lemon-peel and -juice1 sweeten1 and stir well until the whole is thoroughly mixed4 ,line some pattypans with puff-paste1 put in the mixture1 and bake for #bj minutes1 or rather less in a quick oven4 ,time4--#bj minutes1 or rather less4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for about #ab cheesecakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,almond ,,and ,,blossom4 ,,almonds4--,almonds are the fruit of the ,amygdalus commenis1 and are cultivated throughout the whole of the south of ,europe1 ,syria1 ,persia1 and ,northern ,africa2 but ,england is mostly supplied with those which are grown in ,spain and the south of ,france4 ,they are distinguished into ,sweet and ,bitter1 the produce of different varieties4 ,of the sweet1 there are two varieties1 distinguished in commerce by the names of ,jordan and ,valentia almonds4 ,the former are imported from ,malaga1 and are longer1 narrower1 more pointed1 and more highly esteemed than the latter1 which are imported from ,valentia4 ,bitter almonds are principally obtained from ,morocco1 and are exported from ,mogador4 ,,almond ,,paste1 for ,second-,course ,dishes4 #abbj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of sweet almonds1 #f bitter ones1 #a lb4 of very finely sifted sugar1 the whites of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,blanch the almonds1 and dry them thoroughly2 put them into a mortar1 and pound them well1 wetting them gradually with the whites of #b eggs4 ,when well pounded1 put them into a small preserving-pan1 add the sugar1 and place the pan on a small but clear fire 7a hot-plate is better72 keep stirring until the paste is dry1 then take it out of the pan1 put it between two dishes1 and1 when cold1 make it into any shape that fancy may dictate4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 for the above quantity4 ,sufficient for #c small dishes of pastry4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,bitter ,,almonds4--,the ,bitter ,almond is a variety of the common almond1 and is injurious to animal life1 on account of the great quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains1 and is consequently seldom used in domestic economy1 unless it be to give flavour to confectionery2 and even then it should he used with great caution4 ,a single drop of the essential oil of bitter almonds is sufficient to destroy a bird1 and four drops have caused the death of a middle-sized dog4 ,,baked ,,almond ,,pudding4 7,very rich47 #abba4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of almonds1 #d bitter ditto1 #a glass of sherry1 #d eggs1 the rind and juice of #a_/b lemon1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a pint of cream1 #b tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the water2 mix these with the butter1 which should be melted2 beat up the eggs1 grate the lemon-rind1 and strain the juice2 add these1 with the cream1 sugar1 and wine1 to the other ingredients1 and stir them well together4 ,when well mixed1 put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-paste1 and bake for #a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,to make this pudding more economically1 substitute milk for the cream2 but then add rather more than #a oz4 of finely grated bread4 ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,sweet ,,almond4--,the kernels of the sweet almond are used either in a green or ripe state1 and as an article in the dessert4 ,into cookery1 confectionery1 perfumery1 and medicine1 they largely enter1 and in domestic economy1 should always be used in preference to bitter almonds4 ,the reason for advising this1 is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid1 although it is found in the leaves1 flowers1 and bark of the tree4 ,when young and green1 they are preserved in sugar1 like green apricots4 ,they furnish the almond-oil2 and the farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed1 forms the pte d'amandes of perfumers4 ,in the arts1 the oil is employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil1 and forms the basis of kalydor1 macassar oil1 ,gowland's lotion1 and many other articles of that kind vended by perfumers4 ,in medicine1 it is considered a nutritive1 laxative1 and an emollient4 ,,small ,,almond ,,puddings4 #abbb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 #f bitter ones1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #d eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,illustration3 ,,almond ,,puddings4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonful of water2 warm the butter1 mix the almonds with this1 and add the other ingredients1 leaving out the whites of #b eggs1 and be particular that these are well beaten4 ,mix well1 butter some cups1 half fill them1 and bake the puddings from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,turn them out on a dish1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,husks ,,of ,,almonds4--,in the environs of ,alicante1 the husks of almonds are ground to a powder1 and enter into the composition of common soap1 the large quantity of alkaline principle they contain rendering them suitable for this purpose4 ,it is said that in some parts of the south of ,france1 where they are extensively grown1 horses and mules are fed on the green and dry husks2 but1 to prevent any evil consequences arising from this practice1 they are mixed with chopped straw or oats4 ,,almond ,,puffs4 #abbc4 ,,ingredients4--#b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar1 #b oz4 of sweet almonds1 #d bitter almonds4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth paste2 melt the butter1 dredge in the flour1 and add the sugar and pounded almonds4 ,beat the mixture well1 and put it into cups or very tiny jelly-pots1 which should be well buttered1 and bake in a moderate oven for about #bj minutes1 or longer should the puffs be large4 ,turn them out on a dish1 the bottom of the puff upper-most1 and serve4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #b or #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,aunt ,,nelly',s ,,pudding4 #abbd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of treacle1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 the rind and juice of #a lemon1 a few strips of candied lemon-peel1 #c tablespoonfuls of cream1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely2 mix with it the flour1 treacle1 lemon-peel minced1 and candied lemon-peel2 add the cream1 lemon-juice1 and #b well-beaten eggs2 beat the pudding well1 put it into a buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil from #c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,time4--#c-a_/b to #d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time1 but more suitable for a winter pudding4 ,,treacle1 ,,or ,,molasses4--,treacle is the uncrystallizable part of the saccharine juice drained from the ,muscovado sugar1 and is either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable through some defect in the process of boiling4 ,as it contains a large quantity of sweet or saccharine principle and is cheap1 it is of great use as an article of domestic economy4 ,children are especially fond of it2 and it is accounted wholesome4 ,it is also useful for making beer1 rum1 and the very dark syrups4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,dumplings 7a ,plain ,family ,dish74 #abbe4 ,,ingredients4--#f apples1 #c_/d lb44 of suet-crust ,no4 #abae1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing them1 and make #a_/b lb4 of suet-crust by recipe ,no4 #abae2 roll the apples in the crust1 previously sweetening them with moist sugar1 and taking care to join the paste nicely4 ,when they are formed into round balls1 put them on a tin1 and bake them for about #a_/b hour1 or longer should the apples be very large2 arrange them pyramidically on a dish1 and sift over them some pounded white sugar4 ,these may be made richer by using one of the puff-pastes instead of suet4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 or longer4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march1 but flavourless after the end of ,january4 ,,uses ,,of ,,the ,,apple4--,it is well known that this fruit forms a very important article of food1 in the form of pies and puddings1 and furnishes several delicacies1 such as sauces1 marmalades1 and jellies1 and is much esteemed as a dessert fruit4 ,when flattened in the form of round cakes1 and baked in ovens1 they are called beefings2 and large quantities are annually dried in the sun in ,america1 as well as in ,normandy1 and stored for use during winter1 when they may be stewed or made into pies4 ,in a roasted state they are remarkably wholesome1 and1 it is said1 strengthening to a weak stomach4 ,in putrid and malignant fevers1 when used with the juice of lemons and currants1 they are considered highly efficacious4 ,,apple ,,cheesecakes4 #abbf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of apple pulp1 #a_/d lb4 of sifted sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #d eggs1 the rind and juice of #a lemon4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and boil sufficient apples to make #a_/b lb4 when cooked2 add to these the sugar1 the butter1 which should be melted2 the eggs1 leaving out #b of the whites1 and take grated rind and juice of #a lemon2 stir the mixture well2 line some patty-pans with puff-paste1 put in the mixture1 and bake about #bj minutes4 ,time4--,about #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 for the above quantity1 with the paste1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for about #ah or #bj cheesecakes4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,apple ,,and ,,blossom4 ,,the ,,apple4--,the most useful of all the ,british fruits is the apple1 which is a native of ,britain1 and may be found in woods and hedges1 in the form of the common wild crab1 of which all our best apples are merely seminal varieties1 produced by culture or particular circumstances4 ,in most temperate climates it is very extensively cultivated1 and in ,england1 both as regards variety and quantity1 it is excellent and abundant4 ,immense supplies are also imported from the ,united ,states and from ,france4 ,the apples grown in the vicinity of ,new ,york are universally admitted to be the finest of any2 but unless selected and packed with great care1 they are apt to spoil before reaching ,england4 ,,boiled ,,apple ,,dumplings4 #abbg4 ,,ingredients4--#f apples1 #c_/d lb4 of suet-crust ,no4 #abae1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing them2 sweeten1 and roll each apple in a piece of crust1 made by recipe ,no4 #abaa2 be particular that the paste is nicely joined2 put the dumplings into floured cloths1 tie them securely1 and put them into boiling water4 ,keep them boiling from #a_/b to #c_/d hour2 remove the cloths1 and send them hot and quickly to table4 ,dumplings boiled in knitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table4 ,the cloths should be made square1 just large enough to hold one dumpling1 and should be knitted in plain knitting1 with very coarse cotton4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour1 or longer should the dumplings be very large4 ,average cost1 #aa_/b;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march1 but flavourless after the end of ,january4 ,,lambswool1 or ,,lamasool4--,this old ,english beverage is composed of apples mixed with ale1 and seasoned with sugar and spice4 ,it takes its name from ,lamaes abhal1 which1 in ancient ,british1 signifies the day of apple fruit1 from being drunk on the apple feast in autumn4 ,in ,france1 a beverage1 called by the ,parisians raisine1 is made by boiling any given quantity of new wine1 skimming it as often as fresh scum rises1 and1 when it is boiled to half its bulk1 straining it4 ,to this apples1 pared and cut into quarters1 are added2 the whole is then allowed to simmer gently1 stirring it all the time with a long wooden spoon1 till the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor1 and the whole forms a species of marmalade1 which is extremely agreeable to the taste1 having a slight flavour of acidity1 like lemon mixed with honey4 ,,rich ,,baked ,,apple ,,pudding4 ,i4 #abbh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of the pulp of apples1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #f oz4 of butter1 the rind of #a lemon1 #f eggs1 puff-paste4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and cut the apples1 as for sauce2 put them into a stewpan1 with only just sufficient water to prevent them from burning1 and let them stew until reduced to a pulp4 ,weigh the pulp1 and to every #a_/b lb4 add sifted sugar1 grated lemon-rind1 and #f well-beaten eggs4 ,beat these ingredients well together2 then melt the butter1 stir it to the other things1 put a border of puff-paste round the dish1 and bake for rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,the butter should not be added until the pudding is ready for the oven4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,ii4 7,more ,economical47 #abbi4 ,,ingredients4--#ab large apples1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #d eggs1 #a pint of bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and cut the apples1 as for sauce1 and boil them until reduced to a pulp2 then add the butter1 melted1 and the eggs1 which should be well whisked4 ,beat up the pudding for #b or #c minutes2 butter a pie-dish2 put in a layer of bread crumbs1 then the apple1 and then another layer of bread crumbs2 flake over these a few tiny pieces of butter1 and bake for about #a_/b hour4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,note4--,a very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples1 boiled and sweetened1 with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel4 ,a layer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples1 and the pudding baked for #a_/b hour4 ,,constituents ,,of ,,the ,,apple4--,all apples contain sugar1 malic acid1 or the acid of apples2 mucilage1 or gum2 woody fibre1 and water2 together with some aroma1 on which their peculiar flavour depends4 ,the hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw2 but by the process of cooking1 a great deal of this acid is decomposed and converted into sugar4 ,the sweet and mellow kinds form a valuable addition to the dessert4 ,a great part of the acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens1 and even after it is gathered1 by natural process1 termed maturation2 but1 when apples decay1 the sugar is changed into a bitter principle1 and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive4 ,old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when eaten2 probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia of the cheese neutralizing its acid4 ,,rich ,,sweet ,,apple ,,pudding4 #abcj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of apples1 #a_/b lb4 of moist sugar1 #f eggs1 #ab sweet almonds1 #a_/b saltspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a wineglassful of brandy4 ,mode4--,chop the suet very fine2 wash the currants1 dry them1 and pick away the stalks and pieces of grit2 pare1 core1 and chop the apple1 and grate the bread into fine crumbs1 and mince the almonds4 ,mix all these ingredients together1 adding the sugar and nutmeg2 beat up the eggs1 omitting the whites of three2 stir these to the pudding1 and when all is well mixed1 add the brandy1 and put the pudding into a buttered mould2 tie down with a cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and let it boil for #c hours4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,apples4--,the best mode of preserving apples is to carry them at once to the fruit-room1 where they should be put upon shelves1 covered with white paper1 after gently wiping each of the fruit4 ,the room should be dry1 and well aired1 but should not admit the sun4 ,the finer and larger kinds of fruit should not be allowed to touch each other1 but should be kept separate4 ,for this purpose1 a number of shallow trays should be provided1 supported by racks or stands above each other4 ,in very cold frosty weather1 means should be adopted for warming the room4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,pudding4 7,very ,good47 #abca4 ,,ingredients4--#e moderate-sized apples1 #b tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet1 #c eggs1 #c tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a pint of milk1 a little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk2 add the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and put this batter into a well-buttered pie-dish4 ,wipe the apples clean1 but do not pare them2 cut them in halves1 and take out the cores2 lay them in the batter1 rind uppermost2 shake the suet on the top1 over which1 also grate a little nutmeg2 bake in a moderate oven for an hour1 and cover1 when served1 with sifted loaf sugar4 ,this pudding is also very good with the apples pared1 sliced1 and mixed with the batter4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,,boiled ,,apple ,,pudding4 #abcb4 ,,ingredients4--,crust ,no4 #abae1 apples1 sugar to taste1 #a small teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,make a butter-crust by recipe ,no4 #abac1 or a suet one by recipe ,no4 #abae1 using for a moderate-sized pudding from #c_/d to #a lb4 of flour1 with the other ingredients in proportion4 ,butter a basin2 line it with some of the paste2 pare1 core1 and cut the apples into slices1 and fill the basin with these2 add the sugar1 the lemon-peel and juice1 and cover with crust2 pinch the edges together1 flour the cloth1 place it over the pudding1 tie it securely1 and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water4 ,let it boil from #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b hours1 according to the size2 then turn it out of the basin and send to table quickly4 ,apple puddings may also be boiled in a cloth without a basin2 but1 when made in this way1 must be served without the least delay1 as the crust so soon becomes heavy4 ,apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the dinner-hour is rather uncertain1 as it does not spoil by being boiled an extra hour2 care1 however1 must be taken to keep it well covered with the water all the time1 and not to allow it to stop boiling4 ,time4--,from #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b hours1 according to the size of the pudding and the quality of the apples4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient1 made with #a lb4 of flour1 for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march2 but the apples become flavourless and scarce after ,february4 ,,apple ,,tart ,,or ,,pie4 #abcc4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste ,no4 #abje or #abjf1 apples2 to every lb4 of unpared apples allow #b oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,make #a_/b lb4 of puff-paste by either of the above-named recipes1 place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish1 and fill it with apples pared1 cored1 and cut into slices2 sweeten with moist sugar1 add the lemon-peel and juice1 and #b or #c tablespoonfuls of water2 cover with crust1 cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish1 and bake in a hot oven from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 or rather longer1 should the pie be very large4 ,when it is three-parts done1 take it out of the oven1 put the white of an egg on a plate1 and1 with the blade of a knife1 whisk it to a froth2 brush the pie over with this1 then sprinkle upon it some sifted sugar1 and then a few drops of water4 ,put the pie back into the oven1 and finish baking1 and be particularly careful that it does not catch or burn1 which it is very liable to do after the crust is iced4 ,if made with a plain crust1 the icing may be omitted4 ,time4--#a_/b hour before the crust is iced2 #aj to #ae minutes afterwards4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b lbs4 of apples for a tart for #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march2 but the apples become flavourless after ,february4 ,note4--,many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie2 some say #b or #c tablespoonfuls of beer1 others the same quantity of sherry1 which very much improve the taste2 whilst the old-fashioned addition of a few cloves is1 by many persons1 preferred to anything else1 as also a few slices of quince4 ,illustration3 ,,quince4 ,,quinces4--,the environs of ,corinth originally produced the most beautiful quinces1 but the plant was subsequently introduced into ,gaul with the most perfect success4 ,the ancients preserved the fruit by placing it1 with its branches and leaves1 in a vessel filled with honey or sweet wine1 which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition4 ,quinces may be profitably cultivated in this country as a variety with other fruit-trees1 and may be planted in espaliers or as standards4 ,a very fine-flavoured marmalade may be prepared from quinces1 and a small portion of quince in apple pie much improves its flavour4 ,the ,french use quinces for flavouring many sauces4 ,this fruit has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeable odour1 taken singly2 but when in any quantity1 or when they are stowed away in a drawer or close room1 the pleasant aroma becomes an intolerable stench1 although the fruit may be perfectly sound2 it is therefore desirable that1 as but a few quinces are required for keeping1 they should be kept in a high and dry loft1 and out of the way of the rooms used by the family4 ,,creamed ,,apple ,,tart4 #abcd4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-crust ,no4 #abje or #abjf1 apples2 to every lb4 of pared and cored apples1 allow #b oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice1 #a_/b pint of boiled custard4 ,mode4--,make an apple tart by the preceding recipe1 with the exception of omitting the icing4 ,when the tart is baked1 cut out the middle of the lid or crust1 leaving a border all round the dish4 ,fill up with a nicely-made boiled custard1 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and the pie is ready for table4 ,this tart is usually eaten cold2 is rather an old-fashioned dish1 but1 at the same time1 extremely nice4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,apple ,,snowballs4 #abce4 ,,ingredients4--#b teacupfuls of rice1 apples1 moist sugar1 cloves4 ,mode4--,boil the rice in milk until three-parts done2 then strain it off1 and pare and core the apples without dividing them4 ,put a small quantity of sugar and a clove into each apple1 put the rice round them1 and tie each ball separately in a cloth4 ,boil until the apples are tender2 then take them up1 remove the cloths1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to boil the rice separately2 #a_/b to #a hour with the apple4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,apple ,,tourte ,,or ,,cake4 7,german ,recipe47 #abcf4 ,,ingredients4--#aj or #ab apples1 sugar to taste1 the rind of #a small lemon1 #c eggs1 #a_/d pint of cream or milk1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #c_/d lb4 of good short crust ,no4 #abaa1 #c oz4 of sweet almonds4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and cut the apples into small pieces2 put sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin2 add the lemon-peel1 which should be finely minced1 and the cream2 stir these ingredients well1 whisk the eggs1 and melt the butter2 mix altogether1 add the sliced apple1 and let these be well stirred into the mixture4 ,line a large round plate with the paste1 place a narrow rim of the same round the outer edge1 and lay the apples thickly in the middle4 ,blanch the almonds1 cut them into long shreds1 and strew over the top of the apples1 and bake from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 taking care that the almonds do not get burnt3 when done1 strew some sifted sugar over the top1 and serve4 ,this tourte may be eaten either hot or cold1 and is sufficient to fill #b large-sized plates4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #b large-sized tourtes4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,apples4--,no fruit is so universally popular as the apple4 ,it is grown extensively for cider1 but many sorts are cultivated for the table4 ,the apple1 uncooked1 is less digestible than the pear2 the degree of digestibility varying according to the firmness of its texture and flavour4 ,very wholesome and delicious jellies1 marmalades1 and sweetmeats are prepared from it4 ,entremets of apples are made in great variety4 ,apples1 when peeled1 cored1 and well cooked1 are a most grateful food for the dyspeptic4 ,,alma ,,pudding4 #abcg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of fresh butter1 #a_/b lb4 of powdered sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a thick cream1 strew in1 by degrees1 the sugar1 and mix both these well together2 then dredge the flour in gradually1 add the currants1 and moisten with the eggs1 which should be well beaten4 ,when all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed1 butter a mould that will hold the mixture exactly1 tie it down with a cloth1 put the pudding into boiling water1 and boil for #e hours2 when turned out1 strew some powdered sugar over it1 and serve4 ,time4--#f hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,apricot ,,pudding4 #abch4 ,,ingredients4--#ab large apricots1 #c_/d pint of bread crumbs1 #a pint of milk1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 the yolks of #d eggs1 #a glass of sherry4 ,mode4--,make the milk boiling hot1 and pour it on to the bread crumbs2 when half cold1 add the sugar1 the well-whisked yolks of the eggs1 and the sherry4 ,divide the apricots in half1 scald them until they are soft1 and break them up with a spoon1 adding a few of the kernels1 which should be well pounded in a mortar2 then mix the fruit and other ingredients together1 put a border of paste round the dish1 fill with the mixture1 and bake the pudding from #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october4 ,,apricot ,,tart4 #abci4 ,,ingredients4--#ab or #ad apricots1 sugar to taste1 puff-paste or short crust4 ,mode4--,break the apricots in half1 take out the stones1 and put them into a pie-dish1 in the centre of which place a very small cup or jar1 bottom uppermost2 sweeten with good moist sugar1 but add no water4 ,line the edge of the dish with paste1 put on the cover1 and ornament the pie in any of the usual modes4 ,bake from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 according to size2 and if puff-paste is used1 glaze it about #aj minutes before the pie is done1 and put it into the oven again to set the glaze4 ,short crust merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before being sent to table4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october2 green ones rather earlier4 ,note4--,green apricots make very good tarts1 but they should be boiled with a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust4 ,,apricots4--,the apricot is indigenous to the plains of ,armenia1 but is now cultivated in almost every climate1 temperate or tropical4 ,there are several varieties4 ,the skin of this fruit has a perfumed flavour1 highly esteemed4 ,a good apricot1 when perfectly ripe1 is an excellent fruit4 ,it has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities1 but this has possibly arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe1 or in too great excess4 ,delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked1 without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar4 ,the apricot makes excellent jam and marmalade1 and there are several foreign preparations of it which are considered great luxuries4 ,,baked ,,or ,,boiled ,,arrowroot ,,pudding4 #abdj4 ,,ingredients4--#b tablespoonfuls of arrowroot1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #a oz4 of butter1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #b heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar1 a little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it into a smooth batter1 moderately thick2 put the remainder of the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-peel1 and let it infuse for about #a_/b hour2 when it boils1 strain it gently to the batter1 stirring it all the time to keep it smooth2 then add the butter2 beat this well in until thoroughly mixed1 and sweeten with moist sugar4 ,put the mixture into a pie-dish1 round which has been placed a border of paste1 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and bake the pudding from #a to #a-a_/d hour1 in a moderate oven1 or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered basin4 ,to enrich this pudding1 stir to the other ingredients1 just before it is put in the oven1 #c well-whisked eggs1 and add a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,for a nursery pudding1 the addition of the latter ingredients will be found quite superfluous1 as also the paste round the edge of the dish4 ,time4--#a to #a-a_/d hour1 baked or boiled4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,arrowroot4--,in ,india1 and in the colonies1 by the process of rasping1 they extract from a vegetable 7,maranta arundinacea7 a sediment nearly resembling tapioca4 ,the grated pulp is sifted into a quantity of water1 from which it is afterwards strained and dried1 and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot4 ,its qualities closely resemble those of tapioca4 ,a ,,bachelor',s ,,pudding4 #abda4 ,,ingredients4--#d oz4 of grated bread1 #d oz4 of currants1 #d oz4 of apples1 #b oz4 of sugar1 #c eggs1 a few drops of essence of lemon1 a little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and mince the apples very finely1 sufficient1 when minced1 to make #d oz42 add to these the currants1 which should be well washed1 the grated bread1 and sugar2 whisk the eggs1 beat these up with the remaining ingredients1 and1 when all is thoroughly mixed1 put the pudding into a buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil for #c hours4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,bakewell ,,pudding4 7,very ,rich47 ,i4 #abdb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of puff-paste1 #e eggs1 #f oz4 of sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a oz4 of almonds1 jam4 ,mode4--,cover a dish with thin paste1 and put over this a layer of any kind of jam1 #a_/b inch thick2 put the yolks of #e eggs into a basin with the white of #a1 and beat these well2 add the sifted sugar1 the butter1 which should be melted1 and the almonds1 which should be well pounded2 beat all together until well mixed1 then pour it into the dish over the jam1 and bake for an hour in a moderate oven4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 #abdc4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d pint of bread crumbs1 #a pint of milk1 #d eggs1 #b oz4 of sugar1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a oz4 of pounded almonds1 jam4 ,mode4--,put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish1 then over them a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred2 mix the milk and eggs together2 add the sugar1 butter1 and pounded almonds2 beat fill well together2 pour it into the dish1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a hour4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost4 #as4 #c;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baroness ,,pudding4 7,author's ,recipe47 #abdd4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of suet1 #c_/d lb4 of raisins weighed after being stoned1 #c_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,prepare the suet1 by carefully freeing it from skin1 and chop it finely2 stone the raisins1 and cut them in halves1 and mix both these ingredients with the salt and flour2 moisten the whole with the above proportion of milk1 stir the mixture well1 and tie the pudding in a floured cloth1 which has been previously wrung out in boiling water4 ,put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water1 and let it boil1 without ceasing1 #d-a_/b hours4 ,serve merely with plain sifted sugar1 a little of which may be sprinkled over the pudding4 ,time4--#d-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable in winter1 when fresh fruit is not obtainable4 ,note4--,this pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend4 ,the recipe was kindly given to her family by a lady who bore the title here prefixed to it2 and with all who have partaken of it1 it is an especial favourite4 ,nothing is of greater consequence1 in the above directions1 than attention to the time of boiling1 which should never be less than that mentioned4 ,,barberry ,,tart4 #abde4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of barberries allow #c_/d lb4 of lump sugar2 paste4 ,illustration3 ,,leaf ,,in ,,puff-,,paste4 ,mode4--,pick the barberries from the stalks1 and put the fruit into a stone jar2 place this jar in boiling water1 and let it simmer very slowly until the fruit is soft2 then put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar1 and boil gently for #ae minutes2 line a tartlet-pan with paste1 bake it1 and1 when the paste is cold1 fill with the barberries1 and ornament the tart with a few baked leaves of paste1 cut out1 as shown in the engraving4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to bake the tart4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 per pint4 ,seasonable in autumn4 ,illustration3 ,,barberry4 ,,barberries 7,berberris vulgaris47--,a fruit of such great acidity1 that even birds refuse to eat it4 ,in this respect1 it nearly approaches the tamarind4 ,when boiled with sugar1 it makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly1 according to the different modes of preparing it4 ,barberries are also used as a dry sweetmeat1 and in sugarplums or comfits2 are pickled with vinegar1 and are used for various culinary purposes4 ,they are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers4 ,the berries1 arranged on bunches of nice curled parsley1 make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper-dishes1 particularly for white meats1 like boiled fowl la ,bchamel1 the three colours1 scarlet1 green1 and white1 contrasting so well1 and producing a very good effect4 ,,baked ,,batter ,,pudding4 #abdf4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/d pint of milk1 #d tablespoonfuls of flour1 #b oz4 of butter1 #d eggs1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk2 make the remainder hot1 and pour it on to the flour1 keeping the mixture well stirred2 add the butter1 eggs1 and salt2 beat the whole well1 and put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish2 bake for #c_/d hour1 and serve with sweet sauce1 wine sauce1 or stewed fruit4 ,baked in small cups1 this makes very pretty little puddings1 and should be eaten with the same accompaniments as above4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,batter ,,pudding1 with ,dried or ,fresh ,fruit4 #abdg4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/d pint of milk1 #d tablespoonfuls of flour1 #c eggs1 #b oz4 of finely-shredded suet1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 a pinch of salt4 ,mode4--,mix the milk1 flour1 and eggs to a smooth batter2 add a little salt1 the suet1 and the currants1 which should be well washed1 picked1 and dried2 put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a-a_/d hour4 ,when fresh fruits are in season1 this pudding is exceedingly nice1 with damsons1 plums1 red currants1 gooseberries1 or apples2 when made with these1 the pudding must be thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar4 ,boiled batter pudding1 with fruit1 is made in the same manner1 by putting the fruit into a buttered basin1 and filling it up with batter made in the above proportion1 but omitting the suet4 ,it must be sent quickly to table1 and covered plentifully with sifted sugar4 ,time4--,baked batter pudding1 with fruit1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour2 boiled ditto1 #a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour1 allowing that both are made with the above proportion of batter4 ,smaller puddings will be done enough in #c_/d or #a hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time1 with dried fruits4 ,,boiled ,,batter ,,pudding4 #abdh4 ,,ingredients4--#c eggs1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a pint of milk1 #c tablespoonfuls of flour1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin1 and add sufficient milk to moisten it2 carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon1 then pour in the remainder of the milk1 and stir in the butter1 which should be previously melted2 keep beating the mixture1 add the eggs and a pinch of salt1 and when the batter is quite smooth1 put it into a well-buttered basin1 tie it down very tightly1 and put it into boiling water2 move the basin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water1 to prevent the flour settling in any part1 and boil for #a-a_/d hour4 ,this pudding may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water2 it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin4 ,send these puddings very quickly to table1 and serve with sweet sauce1 wine sauce1 stewed fruit1 or jam of any kind3 when the latter is used1 a little of it may be placed round the dish in small quantities1 as a garnish4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour in a basin1 #a hour in a cloth4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,orange ,,batter ,,pudding4 #abdi4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a pint of milk1 #a-a_/d oz4 of loaf sugar1 #c tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,mode4--,make the batter with the above ingredients1 put it into a well-buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil for #a hour4 ,as soon as it is turned out of the basin1 put a small jar of orange marmalade all over the top1 and send the pudding very quickly to table4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 with the marmalade1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time2 but more suitable for a winter pudding4 ,,baked ,,bread ,,pudding4 #abej4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of grated bread1 #a pint of milk1 #d eggs1 #d oz4 of butter1 #d oz4 of moist sugar1 #b oz4 of candied peel1 #f bitter almonds1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a stewpan1 with the bitter almonds2 let it infuse for #a_/d hour2 bring it to the boiling point2 strain it on to the bread crumbs1 and let these remain till cold2 then add the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 the butter1 sugar1 and brandy1 and beat the pudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed2 line the bottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin1 put in the mixture1 and bake for nearly #c_/d hour4 ,time4--,nearly #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,a few currants may be substituted for the candied peel1 and will be found an excellent addition to this pudding3 they should be beaten in with the mixture1 and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish4 ,,very ,,plain ,,bread ,,pudding4 #abea4 ,,ingredients4--,odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread2 to every quart allow #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 #a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #c oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a-a_/d oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,break the bread into small pieces1 and pour on them as much boiling water as will soak them well4 ,let these stand till the water is cool2 then press it out1 and mash the bread with a fork until it is quite free from lumps4 ,measure this pulp1 and to every quart stir in salt1 nutmeg1 sugar1 and currants in the above proportion2 mix all well together1 and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish4 ,smooth the surface with the back of a spoon1 and place the butter in small pieces over the top2 bake in a moderate oven for #a-a_/b hour1 and serve very hot4 ,boiling milk substituted for the boiling water would very much improve this pudding4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d41 exclusive of the bread4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,bread ,,pudding4 #abeb4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of milk1 #c_/d pint of bread crumbs1 sugar to taste1 #d eggs1 #a oz4 of butter1 #c oz4 of currants1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,make the milk boiling1 and pour it on the bread crumbs2 let these remain till cold2 then add the other ingredients1 taking care that the eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed1 picked1 and dried4 ,beat the pudding well1 and put it into a buttered basin2 tie it down tightly with a cloth1 plunge it into boiling water1 and boil for #a-a_/d hour2 turn it out of the basin1 and serve with sifted sugar4 ,any odd pieces or scraps of bread answer for this pudding2 but they should be soaked overnight1 and1 when wanted for use1 should have the water well squeezed from them4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,bread4--,bread contains1 in its composition1 in the form of vegetable albumen and vegetable fibrine1 two of the chief constituents of flesh1 and1 in its incombustible constituents1 the salts which are indispensable for sanguification1 of the same quality and in the same proportion as flesh4 ,but flesh contains1 besides these1 a number of substances which are entirely wanting in vegetable food2 and on these peculiar constituents of flesh depend certain effects1 by which it is essentially distinguished from other articles of food4 ,,brown-,,bread ,,pudding4 #abec4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of brown-bread crumbs1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #d eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream1 grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,grate #c_/d lb4 of crumbs from a stale brown loaf2 add to these the currants and suet1 and be particular that the latter is finely chopped4 ,put in the remaining ingredients2 beat the pudding well for a few minutes2 put it into a buttered basin or mould2 tie it down tightly1 and boil for nearly #d hours4 ,send sweet sauce to table with it4 ,time4--,nearly #d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time2 but more suitable for a winter pudding4 ,,miniature ,,bread ,,puddings4 #abed4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #d eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 sugar to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy1 #a teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel4 ,mode4--,make the milk boiling1 pour it on to the bread crumbs1 and let them soak for about #a_/b hour4 ,beat the eggs1 mix these with the bread crumbs1 add the remaining ingredients1 and stir well until all is thoroughly mixed4 ,butter some small cups2 rather more than half fill them with the mixture1 and bake in a moderate oven from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,a few currants may be added to these puddings3 about #c oz4 will be found sufficient for the above quantity4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h small puddings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,bread-,,and-,,butter ,,pudding4 #abee4 ,,ingredients4--#i thin slices of bread and butter1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #d eggs1 sugar to taste1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 flavouring of vanilla1 grated lemon-peel or nutmeg4 ,mode4--,cut #i slices of bread and butter not very thick1 and put them into a pie-dish1 with currants between each layer and on the top4 ,sweeten and flavour the milk1 either by infusing a little lemon-peel in it1 or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla2 well whisk the eggs1 and stir these to the milk4 ,strain this over the bread and butter1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a hour1 or rather longer4 ,this pudding may be very much enriched by adding cream1 candied peel1 or more eggs than stated above4 ,it should not be turned out1 but sent to table in the pie-dish1 and is better for being made about #b hours before it is baked4 ,time4--#a hour1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,butter4--,butter is indispensable in almost all culinary preparations4 ,good fresh butter1 used in moderation1 is easily digested2 it is softening1 nutritious1 and fattening1 and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances sometimes used in its place4 ,,cabinet or ,,chancellor',s ,,pudding4 #abef4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of candied peel1 #d oz4 of currants1 #d dozen sultanas1 a few slices of ,savoy cake1 sponge cake1 a ,french roll1 #d eggs1 #a pint of milk1 grated lemon-rind1 #a_/d nutmeg1 #c table-spoonfuls of sugar4 ,illustration3 ,,cabinet ,,pudding4 ,mode4--,melt some butter to a paste1 and with it1 well grease the mould or basin in which the pudding is to be boiled1 taking care that it is buttered in every part4 ,cut the peel into thin slices1 and place these in a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould1 and fill in the spaces between with currants and sultanas2 then add a few slices of sponge cake or ,french roll2 drop a few drops of melted butter on these1 and between each layer sprinkle a few currants4 ,proceed in this manner until the mould is nearly full2 then flavour the milk with nutmeg and grated lemon-rind2 add the sugar1 and stir to this the eggs1 which should be well beaten4 ,beat this mixture for a few minutes2 then strain it into the mould1 which should be quite full2 tie a piece of buttered paper over it1 and let it stand for #b hours2 then tie it down with a cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and let it boil slowly for #a hour4 ,in taking it up1 let it stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed2 then quickly turn it out of the mould or basin1 and serve with sweet sauce separately4 ,the flavouring of this pudding may be varied by substituting for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds2 and it may be made much richer by using cream2 but this is not at all necessary4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,plain ,,cabinet or ,,boiled ,,bread-,,and-,,butter ,,pudding4 #abeg4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of raisins1 a few thin slices of bread and butter1 #c eggs1 #a pint of milk1 sugar to taste1 #a_/d nutmeg4 ,mode4--,butter a pudding-basin1 and line the inside with a layer of raisins that have been previously stoned2 then nearly fill the basin with slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off1 and1 in another basin1 beat the eggs2 add to them the milk1 sugar1 and grated nutmeg2 mix all well together1 and pour the whole on to the bread and butter2 let it stand #a_/b hour1 then tie a floured cloth over it2 boil for #a hour1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,care must be taken that the basin is quite full before the cloth is tied over4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,canary ,,pudding4 #abeh4 ,,ingredients4--,the weight of #c eggs in sugar and butter1 the weight of #b eggs in flour1 the rind of #a small lemon1 #c eggs4 ,mode4--,melt the butter to a liquid state1 but do not allow it to oil2 stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel1 and gradually dredge in the flour1 keeping the mixture well stirred2 whisk the eggs2 add these to the pudding2 beat all the ingredients until thoroughly blended1 and put them into a buttered mould or basin2 boil for #b hours1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,or ,,boiled ,,carrot ,,pudding4 #abei4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #d oz4 of suet1 #a_/d lb4 of stoned raisins1 #c_/d lb4 of carrot1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #c eggs1 milk1 #a_/d nutmeg4 ,mode4--,boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp2 add the remaining ingredients1 and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter4 ,if to be boiled1 put the mixture into a buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil for #b-a_/b hours3 if to be baked1 put it into a pie-dish1 and bake for nearly an hour2 turn it out of the dish1 strew sifted sugar over it1 and serve4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours to boil2 #a hour to bake4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,carrots1 says ,liebig1 contain the same kind of sugar as the juice of the sugar-cane4 ,,royal ,,coburg ,,pudding4 #abfj4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of new milk1 #f oz4 of flour1 #f oz4 of sugar1 #f oz4 of butter1 #f oz4 of currants1 #f eggs1 brandy and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk1 add the remaining ingredients gradually1 and when well mixed1 put it into four basins or moulds half full2 bake for #c_/d hour1 turn the puddings out on a dish1 and serve with wine sauce4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,cherry ,,tart4 #abfa4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of cherries1 #b small tablespoonfuls of moist sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of short crust1 ,no4 #abaj or #abaa4 ,mode4--,pick the stalks from the cherries1 put them1 with the sugar1 into a deep pie-dish just capable of holding them1 with a small cup placed upside down in the midst of them4 ,make a short crust with #a_/b lb4 of flour1 by either of the recipes #abaj or #abaa2 lay a border round the edge of the dish2 put on the cover1 and ornament the edges2 bake in a brisk oven from #a_/b hour to #dj minutes2 strew finely-sifted sugar over1 and serve hot or cold1 although the latter is the more usual mode4 ,it is more economical to make two or three tarts at one time1 as the trimmings from one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for another1 and so much paste is not required as when they are made singly4 ,unless for family use1 never make fruit pies in very large dishes2 select them1 however1 as deep as possible4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to #dj minutes4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,note4--,a few currants added to the cherries will be found to impart a nice piquant taste to them4 ,illustration3 ,,cherry4 ,,cherries4--,according to ,lucullus1 the cherry-tree was known in ,asia in the year of ,rome #fhj4 ,seventy different species of cherries1 wild and cultivated1 exist1 which are distinguishable from each other by the difference of their form1 size1 and colour4 ,the ,french distil from cherries a liqueur ,darned kirsch-waser 7eau de crises72 the ,italians prepare1 from a cherry called marusca1 the liqueur named marasquin1 sweeter and more agreeable than the former4 ,the most wholesome cherries have a tender and delicate skin2 those with a hard skin should be very carefully masticated4 ,sweetmeats1 syrups1 tarts1 entremets1 c41 of cherries1 are universally approved4 ,,cold ,,pudding4 #abfb4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a pint of milk1 sugar to taste1 a little grated lemon-rind1 #b oz4 of raisins1 #d tablespoonfuls of marmalade1 a few slices of sponge cake4 ,mode4--,sweeten the milk with lump sugar1 add a little grated lemon-rind1 and stir to this the eggs1 which should be well whisked2 line a buttered mould with the raisins1 stoned and cut in half2 spread the slices of cake with the marmalade1 and place them in the mould2 then pour in the custard1 tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth1 and boil gently for #a hour3 when cold1 turn it out1 and serve4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,college ,,puddings4 #abfc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of bread crumbs1 #f oz4 of finely-chopped suet1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 a few thin slices of candied peel1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #a_/d nutmeg1 #c eggs1 #d tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,put the bread crumbs into a basin2 add the suet1 currants1 candied peel1 sugar1 and nutmeg1 grated1 and stir these ingredients until they are thoroughly mixed4 ,beat up the eggs1 moisten the pudding with these1 and put in the brandy2 beat well for a few minutes1 then form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces2 fry these in hot butter or lard1 letting them stew in it until thoroughly done1 and turn them two or three times1 till of a fine light brown2 drain them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire2 dish1 and serve with wine sauce4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #g or #h puddings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,currant ,,dumplings4 #abfd4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of suet1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 rather more than #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely1 mix it with the flour1 and add the currants1 which should be nicely washed1 picked1 and dried2 mix the whole to a limp paste with the water 7if wanted very nice1 use milk72 divide it into #g or #h dumplings2 tie them in cloths1 and boil for #a-a_/d hour4 ,they may be boiled without a cloth3 they should then be made into round balls1 and dropped into boiling water1 and should be moved about at first1 to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan4 ,serve with a cut lemon1 cold butter1 and sifted sugar4 ,time4--,in a cloth1 #a-a_/d hour2 without1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,zante ,,currants4 ,,zante ,,currants4--,the dried fruit which goes by the name of currants in grocers' shops is not a currant really1 but a small kind of grape1 chiefly cultivated in the ,morea and the ,ionian ,islands1 ,corfu1 ,zante1 c4 ,those of ,zante are cultivated in an immense plain1 under the shelter of mountains1 on the shore of the island1 where the sun has great power1 and brings them to maturity4 ,when gathered and dried by the sun and air1 on mats1 they are conveyed to magazines1 heaped together1 and left to cake1 until ready for shipping4 ,they are then dug out by iron crowbars1 trodden into casks1 and exported4 ,the fertile vale of ,zante the woody produces about #i1jjj1jjj lbs4 of currants annually4 ,in cakes and puddings this delicious little grape is most extensively used2 in fact1 we could not make a plum pudding without the currant4 ,,boiled ,,currant ,,pudding4 7,plain and ,economical47 #abfe4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 milk4 ,mode4--,wash the currants1 dry them thoroughly1 and pick away any stalks or grit2 chop the suet finely2 mix all the ingredients together1 and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a stiff batter2 tie it up in a floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil for #c-a_/b hours2 serve with a cut lemon1 cold butter1 and sifted sugar4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,black or ,,red ,,currant ,,pudding4 #abff4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of red or black currants1 measured with the stalks1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 suet crust ,no4 #abae1 or butter crust ,no4 #abac4 ,mode4--,make1 with #c_/d lb4 of flour1 either a suet crust or butter crust 7the former is usually made72 butter a basin1 and line it with part of the crust2 put in the currants1 which should be stripped from the stalks1 and sprinkle the sugar over them2 put the cover of the pudding on2 make the edges very secure1 that the juice does not escape2 tie it down with a floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil from #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,boiled without a basin1 allow #a_/b hour less4 ,we have allowed rather a large proportion of sugar2 but we find fruit puddings are so much more juicy and palatable when well sweetened before they are boiled1 besides being more economical4 ,a few raspberries added to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition3 about #a_/b pint would be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit4 ,fruit puddings are very delicious if1 when they are turned out of the basin1 the crust is browned with a salamander1 or put into a very hot oven for a few minutes to colour it3 this makes it crisp on the surface4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c hours2 without a basin1 #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,currants4 ,,currants4--,the utility of currants1 red1 black1 or white1 has long been established in domestic economy4 ,the juice of the red species1 if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar1 forms an agreeable substance called currant jelly1 much employed in sauces1 and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds4 ,the ,french mix it with sugar and water1 and thus form an agreeable beverage4 ,the juice of currants is a valuable remedy in obstructions of the bowels2 and1 in febrile complaints1 it is useful on account of its readily quenching thirst1 and for its cooling effect on the stomach4 ,white and flesh-coloured currants have1 with the exception of the fullness of flavour1 in every respect1 the same qualities as the red species4 ,both white and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert1 but the black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal purposes1 especially in the form of jelly for quinsies4 ,the leaves of the black currant make a pleasant tea4 ,,red-,,currant ,,and ,,raspberry ,,tart4 #abfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of picked currants1 #a_/b pint of raspberries1 #c heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of short crust4 ,mode4--,strip the currants from the stalks1 and put them into a deep pie-dish1 with a small cup placed in the midst1 bottom upwards2 add the raspberries and sugar2 place a border of paste round the edge of the dish1 cover with crust1 ornament the edges1 and bake from #a_/b to #c_/d hour3 strew some sifted sugar over before being sent to table4 ,this tart is more generally served cold than hot4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,illustration3 ,,raspberry4 ,,raspberries4--,there are two sorts of raspberries1 the red and the white4 ,both the scent and flavour of this fruit are very refreshing1 and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome1 and invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament4 ,we are not aware1 however1 of its being cultivated with the same amount of care which is bestowed upon some other of the berry tribe1 although it is far from improbable that a more careful cultivation would not be repaid by a considerable improvement in the size and flavour of the berry2 neither1 as an eating fruit1 is it so universally esteemed as the strawberry1 with whose lusciousness and peculiarly agreeable flavour it can bear no comparison4 ,in ,scotland1 it is found in large quantities1 growing wild1 and is eagerly sought after1 in the woods1 by children4 ,its juice is rich and abundant1 and to many1 extremely agreeable4 ,,baked ,,custard ,,pudding4 #abfh4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of milk1 the rind of #a_/d lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-rind1 and let this infuse for about #d hour1 or until the milk is well flavoured2 whisk the eggs1 yolks and whites2 pour the milk to them1 stirring all the while2 then have ready a pie-dish1 lined at the edge with paste ready baked2 strain the custard into the dish1 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and bake in a very slow oven for about #a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,the flavour of this pudding may be varied by substituting bitter almonds for the lemon-rind2 and it may be very much enriched by using half cream and half milk1 and doubling the quantity of eggs4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,this pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts4 ,,boiled ,,custard ,,pudding4 #abfi4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #d eggs1 flavouring to taste4 ,mode4--,flavour the milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind or cinnamon2 whisk the eggs1 stir the flour gradually to these1 and pour over them the milk1 and stir the mixture well4 ,butter a basin that will exactly hold it2 put in the custard1 and tie a floured cloth over2 plunge it into boiling water1 and turn it about for a few minutes1 to prevent the flour from settling in one part4 ,boil it slowly for #a_/b hour2 turn it out of the basin1 and serve4 ,the pudding may be garnished with red-currant jelly1 and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,damson ,,tart4 #abgj4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/d pint of damsons1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of short or puff crust4 ,mode4--,put the damsons1 with the sugar between them1 into a deep pie-dish1 in the midst of which1 place a small cup or jar turned upside down2 pile the fruit high in the middle1 line the edges of the dish with short or puff crust1 whichever may be preferred2 put on the cover1 ornament the edges1 and bake from #a_/b to #c_/d hour in a good oven4 ,if puff-crust is used1 about #aj minutes before the pie is done1 take it out of the oven1 brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth with the blade of a knife2 strew some sifted sugar over1 and a few drops of water1 and put the tart back to finish baking3 with short crust1 a little plain sifted sugar1 sprinkled over1 is all that will be required4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october4 ,illustration3 ,,damsons4 ,,damsons4--,whether for jam1 jelly1 pie1 pudding1 water1 ice1 wine1 dried fruit or preserved1 the damson1 or damascene 7for it was originally brought from ,damascus1 whence its name71 is invaluable4 ,it combines sugary and acid qualities in happy proportions1 when full ripe4 ,it is a fruit easily cultivated2 and1 if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks1 it will grow several feet high in the first year1 and make fine standards the year following4 ,amongst the list of the best sorts of baking plums1 the damson stands first1 not only on account of the abundance of its juice1 but also on account of its soon softening4 ,because of the roughness of its flavour1 it requires a large quantity of sugar4 ,,damson ,,pudding4 #abga4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of damsons1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #c_/d lb4 of suet or butter crust4 ,mode4--,make a suet crust with #c_/d lb4 of flour by recipe ,no4 #abae2 line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it2 fill the basin with the damsons1 sweeten them1 and put on the lid2 pinch the edges of the crust together1 that the juice does not escape2 tie over a floured cloth1 put the pudding into boiling water1 and boil from #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october4 ,,delhi ,,pudding4 #abgb4 ,,ingredients4--#d large apples1 a little grated nutmeg1 #a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #b large tablespoonfuls of sugar1 #f oz4 of currants1 #c_/d lb4 of suet crust ,no4 #abae4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and cut the apples into slices2 put them into a saucepan1 with the nutmeg1 lemon-peel1 and sugar2 stir them over the fire until soft2 then have ready the above proportion of crust1 roll it out thin1 spread the apples over the paste1 sprinkle over the currants1 roll the pudding up1 closing the ends properly1 tie it in a floured cloth1 and boil for #b hours4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,,empress ,,pudding4 #abgc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of rice1 #b oz4 of butter1 #c eggs1 jam1 sufficient milk to soften the rice4 ,mode4--,boil the rice in the milk until very soft2 then add the butter boil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in1 and set it by to cool4 ,well beat the eggs1 stir these in1 and line a dish with puff-paste2 put over this a layer of rice1 then a thin layer of any kind of jam1 then another layer of rice1 and proceed in this manner until the dish is full2 and bake in a moderate oven for #c_/d hour4 ,this pudding may be eaten hot or cold2 if the latter1 it will be much improved by having a boiled custard poured over it4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,exeter ,,pudding4 7,very rich47 #abgd4 ,,ingredients4--#aj oz4 of bread crumbs1 #d oz4 of sago1 #g oz4 of finely-chopped suet1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/d pint of rum1 #g eggs1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 #d small sponge cakes1 #b oz4 of ratafias1 #a_/b lb4 of jam4 ,mode4--,put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago1 suet1 sugar1 minced lemon-peel1 rum1 and #d eggs2 stir these ingredients well together1 then add #c more eggs and the cream1 and let the mixture be well beaten4 ,then butter a mould1 strew in a few bread crumbs1 and cover the bottom with a layer of ratafias2 then put in a layer of the mixture1 then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with any kind of jam2 then add some ratafias1 then some of the mixture and sponge cake1 and so on until the mould is full1 taking care that a layer of the mixture is on the top of the pudding4 ,bake in a good oven from #c_/d to #a hour1 and serve with the following sauce3--,put #c tablespoonfuls of black-currant jelly into a stewpan1 add #b glasses of sherry1 and1 when warm1 turn the pudding out of the mould1 pour the sauce over it1 and serve hot4 ,time4--,from #a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fig ,,pudding4 ,i4 #abge4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of figs1 #a lb4 of suet1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #b eggs1 milk4 ,mode4--,cut the figs into small pieces1 grate the bread finely1 and chop the suet very small2 mix these well together1 add the flour1 the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and sufficient milk to form the whole into a stiff paste2 butter a mould or basin1 press the pudding into it very closely1 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil for #c hours1 or rather longer2 turn it out of the mould1 and serve with melted butter1 wine-sauce1 or cream4 ,time4--#c hours1 or longer4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a winter pudding4 ,,ii4 7,staffordshire ,recipe47 #abgf4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of figs1 #f oz4 of suet1 #c_/d lb4 of flour1 milk4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely1 mix with it the flour1 and make these into a smooth paste with milk2 roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/b inch1 cut the figs in small pieces1 and strew them over the paste2 roll it up1 make the ends secure1 tie the pudding in a cloth1 and boil it from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,folkestone ,,pudding-,,pies4 #abgg4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #c oz4 of ground rice1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf1 #f eggs1 puff-paste1 currants4 ,mode4--,infuse #b laurel or bay leaves1 or the rind of #a_/b lemon1 in the milk1 and when it is well flavoured1 strain it1 and add the rice2 boil these for #a_/d hour1 stirring all the time2 then take them off the fire1 stir in the butter1 sugar1 and eggs1 and let these latter be well beaten before they are added to the other ingredients2 when nearly cold1 line some patty-pans with puff-paste1 fill with the custard1 strew over each a few currants1 and bake from #bj to #be minutes in a moderate oven4 ,time4--#bj to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 ,sufficient to fill a dozen patty-pans4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fruit ,,turnovers 7suitable for ,pic-,nics74 #abgh4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste ,no4 #abjf1 any kind of fruit1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,make some puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abjf2 roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/d inch1 and cut it out in pieces of a circular form2 pile the fruit on half of the paste1 sprinkle over some sugar1 wet the edges and turn the paste over4 ,press the edges together1 ornament them1 and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg2 sprinkle over sifted sugar1 and bake on tins1 in a brisk oven1 for about #bj minutes4 ,instead of putting the fruit in raw1 it may be boiled down with a little sugar first1 and then inclosed in the crust2 or jam1 of any kind1 may be substituted for fresh fruit4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,sufficient--#a_/b lb4 of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,german ,,pudding4 #abgi4 ,,ingredients4--#b teaspoonfuls of flour1 #a teaspoonful of arrowroot1 #a pint of milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 sugar to taste1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #d eggs1 #c tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured2 then strain it1 and mix with it the flour1 arrowroot1 butter1 and sugar4 ,boil these ingredients for a few minutes1 keeping them well stirred2 then take them off the fire and mix with them the eggs1 yolks and whites1 beaten separately and added separately4 ,boil some sugar to candy2 line a mould with this1 put in the brandy1 then the mixture2 tie down with a cloth1 and boil for rather more than #a hour4 ,when turned out1 the brandy and sugar make a nice sauce4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,dampfnudeln1 or ,,german ,,puddings4 #abhj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #e eggs1 #b small tablespoonfuls of yeast1 #b tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded sugar1 milk1 a very little salt4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin1 make a hole in the centre1 into which put the yeast1 and rather more than #a_/d pint of warm milk2 make this into a batter with the middle of the flour1 and let the sponge rise in a warm temperature4 ,when sufficiently risen1 mix the eggs1 butter1 sugar1 and salt with a little more warm milk1 and knead the whole well together with the hands1 beating the dough until it is perfectly smooth1 and it drops from the fingers4 ,then cover the basin with a cloth1 put it in a warm place1 and when the dough has nicely risen1 knead it into small balls2 butter the bottom of a deep saut-pan1 strew over some pounded sugar1 and let the dampfnudeln be laid in1 but do not let them touch one another2 then pour over sufficient milk to cover them1 put on the lid1 and let them rise to twice their original size by the side of the fire4 ,now place them in the oven for a few minutes1 to acquire a nice brown colour1 and serve them on a napkin1 with custard sauce flavoured with vanilla1 or a compte of any fruit that may be preferred4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour for the sponge to rise2 #aj to #ae minutes for the puddings to rise2 #aj minutes to bake them in a brisk oven4 ,sufficient for #aj or #ab dampfnudeln4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ginger ,,pudding4 #abha4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of suet1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #b large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger4 ,mode4--,shred the suet very fine1 mix it with the flour1 sugar1 and ginger2 stir all well together2 butter a basin1 and put the mixture in dry2 tie a cloth over1 and boil for #c hours4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,golden ,,pudding4 #abhb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/d lb4 of suet1 #a_/d lb4 of marmalade1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,put the bread crumbs into a basin2 mix with them the suet1 which should be finely minced1 the marmalade1 and the sugar2 stir all these ingredients well together1 beat the eggs to a froth1 moisten the pudding with these1 and when well mixed1 put it into a mould or buttered basin2 tie down with a floured cloth1 and boil for #b hours4 ,when turned out1 strew a little fine-sifted sugar over the top1 and serve4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #aa;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins1 arranged in any fanciful pattern1 before the mixture is poured in1 which would add very much to the appearance of the pudding4 ,for a plainer pudding1 double the quantities of the bread crumbs1 and if the eggs do not moisten it sufficiently1 use a little milk4 ,,baked ,,gooseberry ,,pudding4 #abhc4 ,,ingredients4--,gooseberries1 #c eggs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of bread crumbs1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,put the gooseberries into a jar1 previously cutting off the tops and tails2 place this jar in boiling water1 and let it boil until the gooseberries are soft enough to pulp2 then beat them through a coarse sieve1 and to every pint of pulp add #c well-whisked eggs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of bread crumbs1 and sugar to taste2 beat the mixture well1 put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish1 put in the pudding1 bake for about #dj minutes1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,july4 ,,boiled ,,gooseberry ,,pudding4 #abhd4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of suet crust ,no4 #abae1 #a-a_/b pint of green gooseberries1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar4 ,mode4--,line a pudding-basin with suet crust no4 #abae1 rolled out to about #a_/b inch in thickness1 and1 with a pair of scissors1 cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries2 fill the basin with the fruit1 put in the sugar1 and cover with crust4 ,pinch the edges of the pudding together1 tie over it a floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil from #b-a_/b to #c hours2 turn it out of the basin1 and serve with a jug of cream4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,july4 ,,gooseberry ,,tart4 #abhe4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of gooseberries1 #a_/b lb4 of short crust ,no4 #abaa1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar4 ,mode4--,with a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries2 put them into a deep pie-dish1 pile the fruit high in the centre1 and put in the sugar2 line the edge of the dish with short crust1 put on the cover1 and ornament the edges of the tart2 bake in a good oven for about #c_/d hour1 and before being sent to table1 strew over it some fine-sifted sugar4 ,a jug of cream1 or a dish of boiled or baked custards1 should always accompany this dish4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,may to ,july4 ,illustration3 ,,gooseberry4 ,,gooseberries4--,the red and the white are the two principal varieties of gooseberries4 ,the red are rather the more acid2 but1 when covered with white sugar1 are most wholesome1 because the sugar neutralizes their acidity4 ,red gooseberries make an excellent jelly1 which is light and refreshing1 but not very nourishing4 ,it is good for bilious and plethoric persons1 and to invalids generally who need light and digestible food4 ,it is a fruit from which many dishes might be made4 ,all sorts of gooseberries are agreeable when stewed1 and1 in this country especially1 there is no fruit so universally in favour4 ,in ,scotland1 there is scarcely a cottage-garden without its gooseberry-bush4 ,several of the species are cultivated with the nicest care4 ,,half-,,pay ,,pudding4 #abhf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of suet1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #a_/d lb4 of raisins1 #a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #b tablespoonfuls of treacle1 #a_/b pint of milk4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely2 mix with it the currants1 which should be nicely washed and dried1 the raisins1 which should be stoned1 the flour1 bread crumbs1 and treacle2 moisten with the milk1 beat up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed1 put them into a buttered basin1 and boil the pudding for #c-a_/b hours4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,herodotus ,,pudding4 #abhg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/b lb4 of good figs1 #f oz4 of suet1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #c eggs1 nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,mince the suet and figs very finely2 add the remaining ingredients1 taking care that the eggs are well whisked2 beat the mixture for a few minutes1 put it into a buttered mould1 tie it down with a floured cloth1 and boil the pudding for #e hours4 ,serve with wine sauce4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,hunter',s ,,pudding4 #abhh4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of raisins1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a lb4 of suet1 #a lb4 of bread crumbs1 #c lb4 of moist sugar1 #h eggs1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #c lb4 of mixed candied peel1 #a glass of brandy1 #aj drops of essence of lemon1 #aj drops of essence of almonds1 #a_/b nutmeg1 #b blades of mace1 #f cloves4 ,mode4--,stone and shred the raisins rather small1 chop the suet finely1 and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken2 pound the spice to powder1 cut the candied peel into thin shreds1 and mix all these ingredients well together1 adding the sugar4 ,beat the eggs to a strong froth1 and as they are beaten1 drop into them the essence of lemon and essence of almonds2 stir these to the dry ingredients1 mix well1 and add the brandy4 ,tie the pudding firmly in a cloth1 and boil it for #f hours at the least3 #g or #h hours would be still better for it4 ,serve with boiled custard1 or red-currant jelly1 or brandy sauce4 ,time4--#f to #h hours4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #i or #aj persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,iced ,,pudding4 7,parisian ,recipe47 ,illustration3 ,,iced-,,pudding ,,mould4 #abhi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 #b oz4 of bitter ones1 #c_/d lb4 of sugar1 #h eggs1 #a-a_/b pint of milk4 ,mode4--,blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth1 then pound them in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste2 add to these the well-beaten eggs1 the sugar1 and milk2 stir these ingredients over the fire until they thicken1 but do not allow them to boil2 then strain and put the mixture into the freezing-pot2 surround it with ice1 and freeze it as directed in recipe #abij4 ,when quite frozen1 fill an iced-pudding mould1 put on the lid1 and keep the pudding in ice until required for table2 then turn it out on the dish1 and garnish it with a compte of any fruit that may be preferred1 pouring a little over the top of the pudding4 ,this pudding may be flavoured with vanilla1 ,curaoa1 or ,maraschino4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,seasonable4--,served all the year round4 ,,iced ,,apple ,,pudding4 7,french ,recipe1 after ,carme47 #abij4 ,,ingredients4--#b dozen apples1 a small pot of apricot-jam1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #a ,seville orange1 #a_/d pint of preserved cherries1 #a_/d lb4 of raisins1 #a oz4 of citron1 #b oz4 of almonds1 #a gill of ,curaoa1 #a gill of ,maraschino1 #a pint of cream4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and cut the apples into quarters1 and simmer them over the fire until soft2 then mix with them the apricot-jam and the sugar1 on which the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed2 work all these ingredients through a sieve1 and put them into the freezing-pot4 ,stone the raisins1 and simmer them in a little syrup for a few minutes2 add these1 with the sliced citron1 the almonds cut in dice1 and the cherries drained from their syrup1 to the ingredients in the freezing-pot2 put in the ,curaoa and ,maraschino1 and freeze again2 add as much whipped cream as will be required1 freeze again1 and fill the mould4 ,put the lid on1 and plunge the mould into the ice-pot2 cover it with a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre1 where it should remain until wanted for table4 ,turn the pudding out of the mould on to a clean and neatly-folded napkin1 and serve1 as sauce1 a little iced whipped cream1 in a sauce-tureen or glass dish4 ,illustration3 ,,ice-,,spattle4 ,illustration3 ,,ice-,,freezing ,,pail4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,march4 ,method of working the freezing ,apparatus4--,put into the outer pail some pounded ice1 upon which strew some saltpetre2 then fix the pewter freezing-pot upon this1 and surround it entirely with ice and saltpetre4 ,wipe the cover and edges of the pot1 pour in the preparation1 and close the lid2 a quarter of an hour after1 begin turning the freezing-pan from right to left1 and when the mixture begins to be firm round the sides of the pot1 stir it about with the slice or spattle1 that the preparation may be equally congealed4 ,close the lid again1 keep working from right to left1 and1 from time to time1 remove the mixture from the sides1 that it may be smooth2 and when perfectly frozen1 it is ready to put in the mould2 the mould should then be placed in the ice again1 where it should remain until wanted for table4 ,,roly-,,poly ,,jam ,,pudding4 #abia4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb of suet-crust ,no4 #abae1 #c_/d lb4 of any kind of jam4 ,mode4--,make a nice light suet-crust by recipe ,no4 #abae1 and roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/b inch4 ,spread the jam equally over it1 leaving a small margin of paste without any1 where the pudding joins4 ,roll it up1 fasten the ends securely1 and tie it in a floured cloth2 put the pudding into boiling water1 and boil for #b hours4 ,mincemeat or marmalade may be substituted for the jam1 and makes excellent puddings4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for winter puddings1 when fresh fruit is not obtainable4 ,,lemon ,,cheesecakes4 #abib4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a lb4 of loaf sugar1 #f eggs1 the rind of #b lemons and the juice of #c4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a stewpan1 carefully grating the lemon-rind and straining the juice4 ,keep stirring the mixture over the fire until the sugar is dissolved1 and it begins to thicken3 when of the consistency of honey1 it is done2 then put it into small jars1 and keep in a dry place4 ,this mixture will remain good #c or #d months4 ,when made into cheesecakes1 add a few pounded almonds1 or candied peel1 or grated sweet biscuit2 line some patty-pans with good puff-paste1 rather more than half fill them with the mixture1 and bake for about #a_/d hour in a good brisk oven4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #bd cheesecakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,mincemeat4 #abic4 ,,ingredients4--#b large lemons1 #f large apples1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #b oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 #a oz4 of citron1 mixed spice to taste4 ,mode4--,pare the lemons1 squeeze them1 and boil the peel until tender enough to mash4 ,add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples1 which should be pared1 cored1 and minced2 the chopped suet1 currants1 sugar1 sliced peel1 and spice4 ,strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients1 stir the mixture well1 and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting lid4 ,stir occasionally1 and in a week or #aj days the mincemeat will be ready for use4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #ah large or #bd small pies4 ,seasonable4--,make this about the beginning of ,december4 ,,lemon ,,dumplings4 #abid4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of grated bread1 #a_/d lb4 of chopped suet1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #b eggs1 #a large lemon4 ,illustration3 ,,lemon ,,dumplings4 ,mode4--,mix the bread1 suet1 and moist sugar well together1 adding the lemon-peel1 which should be very finely minced4 ,moisten with the eggs and strained lemon-juice2 stir well1 and put the mixture into small buttered cups4 ,tie them down and boil for #c_/d hour4 ,turn them out on a dish1 strew sifted sugar over them1 and serve with wine sauce4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #f dumplings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,lemon ,,pudding4 ,i4 #abie4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #d eggs1 #d oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 puff-crust4 ,mode4--,beat the eggs to a froth2 mix with them the sugar and warmed butter2 stir these ingredients well together1 putting in the grated rind and strained juice of the lemon-peel4 ,line a shallow dish with puff-paste2 put in the mixture1 and bake in a moderate oven for #dj minutes2 turn the pudding out of the dish1 strew over it sifted sugar1 and serve4 ,time4--#dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ii4 #abif4 ,,ingredients4--#aj oz4 of bread crumbs1 #b pints of milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of pounded sugar1 #d eggs1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,mode4--,bring the milk to the boiling point1 stir in the butter1 and pour these hot over the bread crumbs2 add the sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel2 beat the eggs1 and stir these in with the brandy to the other ingredients2 put a paste round the dish1 and bake for #c_/d hour4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,lemon4 ,,lemon4--,the lemon is a variety of the citron4 ,the juice of this fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing beverages--lemonade1 which is gently stimulating and cooling1 and soon quenches the thirst4 ,it may he freely partaken by bilious and sanguine temperaments2 but persons with irritable stomachs should avoid it1 on account of its acid qualities4 ,the fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic1 and1 when dried and grated1 is used in flavouring a variety of culinary preparations4 ,lemons appear in company with the orange in most orange-growing countries4 ,they were only known to the ,romans at a very late period1 and1 at first1 were used only to keep the moths from their garments3 their acidity was unpleasant to them4 ,in the time of ,pliny1 the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an excellent counter-poison4 ,,iii4 7,very rich47 #abig4 ,,ingredients4--,the rind and juice of #b large lemons1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a_/d pint of cream1 the yolks of #h eggs1 #b oz4 of almonds1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 melted4 ,mode4--,mix the pounded sugar with the cream1 and add the yolks of eggs and the butter1 which should be previously warmed4 ,blanch and pound the almonds1 and put these1 with the grated rind and strained juice of the lemons1 to the other ingredients4 ,stir all well together2 line a dish with puff-paste1 put in the mixture1 and bake for #a hour4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,lemon ,,pudding4 #abih4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of chopped suet1 #c_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #b small lemons1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of flour1 #b eggs1 milk4 ,mode4--,mix the suet1 bread crumbs1 sugar1 and flour well together1 adding the lemon-peel1 which should be very finely minced1 and the juice1 which should be strained4 ,when these ingredients are well mixed1 moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter2 put it into a well-buttered mould1 and boil for #c-a_/b hours2 turn it out1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve with wine sauce1 or not1 at pleasure4 ,time4--#c-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,this pudding may also be baked1 and will be found very good4 ,it will take about #b hours4 ,,plain ,,lemon ,,pudding4 #abii4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of lard or dripping1 the juice of #a large lemon1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 sugar4 ,mode4--,make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth paste1 and roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/b inch4 ,squeeze the lemon-juice1 strain it into a cup1 stir the flour into it1 and as much moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste2 spread this mixture over the paste1 roll it up1 secure the ends1 and tie the pudding in a floured cloth4 ,boil for #b hours4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,manchester ,,pudding 7to eat ,cold74 #acjj4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of grated bread1 #a_/b pint of milk1 a strip of lemon-peel1 #d eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 sugar to taste1 puff-paste1 jam1 #c tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,flavour the milk with lemon-peel1 by infusing it in the milk for #a_/b hour2 then strain it on to the bread crumbs1 and boil it for #b or #c minutes2 add the eggs1 leaving out the whites of #b1 the butter1 sugar1 and brandy2 stir all these ingredients well together2 cover a pie-dish with puff-paste1 and at the bottom put a thick layer of any kind of jam2 pour the above mixture1 cold1 on the jam1 and bake the pudding for an hour4 ,serve cold1 with a little sifted sugar sprinkled over4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sweet ,,macaroni ,,pudding4 #acja4 ,,ingredients4--#b-a_/b oz4 of macaroni1 #b pints of milk1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #c eggs1 sugar and grated nutmeg to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,put the macaroni1 with a pint of the milk1 into a saucepan with the lemon-peel1 and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender2 then put it into a pie-dish without the peel2 mix the other pint of milk with the eggs2 stir these well together1 adding the sugar and brandy1 and pour the mixture over the macaroni4 ,grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a_/b hour4 ,to make this pudding look nice1 a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish1 and1 for variety1 a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni3 in this case omit the brandy4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to simmer the macaroni2 #a_/b hour to bake the pudding4 ,average cost1 #aa;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,macaroni is composed of wheaten flour1 flavoured with other articles1 and worked up with water into a paste1 to which1 by a peculiar process1 a tubular or pipe form is given1 in order that it may cook more readily in hot water4 ,that of smaller diameter than macaroni 7which is about the thickness of a goose-quill7 is called vermicelli2 and when smaller still1 fidelini4 ,the finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained ,black-,sea wheat4 ,macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts of ,italy1 particularly ,naples1 where the best is manufactured1 and from whence1 also1 it is exported in considerable quantities4 ,in this country1 macaroni and vermicelli are frequently used in soups4 ,illustration3 ,,macaroni4 ,,manna ,,kroup ,,pudding4 #acjb4 ,,ingredients4--#c tablespoonfuls of manna kroup1 #ab bitter almonds1 #a pint of milk1 sugar to taste1 #c eggs4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar2 mix them with the manna kroup2 pour over these a pint of boiling milk1 and let them steep for about #a_/d hour4 ,when nearly cold1 add sugar and the well-beaten eggs2 mix all well together2 put the pudding into a buttered dish1 and bake for #a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,manna ,,kroup1 ,,semora1 or ,,semolina1 are three names given to a flour made from ground wheat and rice4 ,the preparation is white when it is made only of these materials2 the yellow colour which it usually has1 is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of eggs4 ,next to vermicelli1 this preparation is the most useful for thickening either meat or vegetable soups4 ,as a food1 it is light1 nutritious1 wholesome1 and easily digested4 ,the best preparation is brought from ,arabia1 and1 next to that1 from ,italy4 ,,mansfield ,,pudding4 #acjc4 ,,ingredients4--,the crumb of #b rolls1 #a pint of milk1 sugar to taste1 #d eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy1 #f oz4 of chopped suet1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,mode4--,slice the roll very thin1 and pour upon it a pint of boiling milk2 let it remain covered close for #a_/d hour1 then beat it up with a fork1 and sweeten with moist sugar2 stir in the chopped suet1 flour1 currants1 and nutmeg4 ,mix these ingredients well together1 moisten with the eggs1 brandy1 and cream2 beat the mixture for #b or #c minutes1 put it into a buttered dish or mould1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a-a_/d hour4 ,turn it out1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,marlborough ,,pudding4 #acjd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of powdered lump sugar1 #d eggs1 puff-paste1 a layer of any kind of jam4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream1 stir in the powdered sugar1 whisk the eggs1 and add these to the other ingredients4 ,when these are well mixed1 line a dish with puff-paste1 spread over a layer of any kind of jam that may be preferred1 pour in the mixture1 and bake the pudding for rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,marmalade ,,and ,,vermicelli ,,pudding4 #acje4 ,,ingredients4--#a breakfastcupful of vermicelli1 #b tablespoonfuls of marmalade1 #a_/d lb4 of raisins1 sugar to taste1 #c eggs1 milk4 ,mode4--,pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli1 and let it remain covered for #aj minutes2 then mix with it the marmalade1 stoned raisins1 sugar1 and beaten eggs4 ,stir all well together1 put the mixture into a buttered mould1 boil for #a-a_/b hour1 and serve with custard sauce4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost4 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,marrow ,,dumplings1 to serve with ,roast ,meat1 in ,soup1 with ,salad1 c4 7,german ,recipe47 #acjf4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of beef marrow1 #a oz4 of butter1 #b eggs1 #b penny rolls1 #a teaspoonful of minced onion1 #a teaspoonful of minced parsley1 salt and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,beat the marrow and butter together to a cream2 well whisk the eggs1 and add these to the other ingredients4 ,when they are well stirred1 put in the rolls1 which should previously be well soaked in boiling milk1 strained1 and beaten up with a fork4 ,add the remaining ingredients1 omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much disliked1 and form the mixture into small round dumplings4 ,drop these into boiling broth1 and let them simmer for about #bj minutes or #a_/b hour4 ,they may be served in soup1 with roast meat1 or with salad1 as in ,germany1 where they are more frequently sent to table than in this country4 ,they are very good4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h dumplings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,ob ,,boiled ,,marrow ,,pudding4 #acjg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of bread crumbs1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #f oz4 of marrow1 #d eggs1 #a_/d lb4 of raisins or currants1 or #b oz4 of each2 sugar and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,make the milk boiling1 pour it hot on to the bread crumbs1 and let these remain covered for about #a_/b hour2 shred the marrow1 beat up the eggs1 and mix these with the bread crumbs2 add the remaining ingredients1 beat the mixture well1 and either put it into a buttered mould and boil it for #b-a_/b hours1 or put it into a pie-dish edged with puff-paste1 and bake for rather more than #c_/d hour4 ,before sending it to table1 sift a little pounded sugar over1 after being turned out of the mould or basin4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours to boil1 #c_/d hour to bake4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,military ,,puddings4 #acjh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of suet1 #a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/b lb4 of moist sugar1 the rind and juice of #a large lemon4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely1 mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar1 and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice2 stir these into the other ingredients1 mix well1 and put the mixture into small buttered cups1 and bake for rather more than #a_/b hour2 turn them out on the dish1 and serve with lemon-sauce4 ,the above ingredients may be made into small balls1 and boiled for about #a_/b hour2 they should then be served with the same sauce as when baked4 ,time4--,rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient to fill #f or #g moderate-sized cups4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,mincemeat4 #acji4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of raisins1 #c lbs4 of currants1 #a-a_/b lb4 of lean beef1 #c lbs4 of beef suet1 #b lbs4 of moist sugar1 #b oz4 of citron1 #b oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 #b oz4 of candied orange-peel1 #a small nutmeg1 #a pottle of apples1 the rind of #b lemons1 the juice of #a1 #a_/b pint of brandy4 ,mode4--,stone and cut the raisins once or twice across1 but do not chop them2 wash1 dry1 and pick the currants free from stalks and grit1 and mince the beef and suet1 taking care that the latter is chopped very fine2 slice the citron and candied peel1 grate the nutmeg1 and pare1 core1 and mince the apples2 mince the lemon-peel1 strain the juice1 and when all the ingredients are thus prepared1 mix them well together1 adding the brandy when the other things are well blended2 press the whole into a jar1 carefully exclude the air1 and the mincemeat will be ready for use in a fortnight4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #hs4 ,seasonable4--,make this about the beginning of ,december4 ,,excellent ,,mincemeat4 #acaj4 ,,ingredients4--#c large lemons1 #c large apples1 #a lb4 of stoned raisins1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a lb4 of suet1 #b lbs4 of moist sugar1 #a oz4 of sliced candied citron1 #a oz4 of sliced candied orange-peel1 and the same quantity of lemon-peel1 #a teacupful of brandy1 #b tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade4 ,mode4--,grate the rinds of the lemons2 squeeze out the juice1 strain it1 and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp or chop very finely4 ,then add to this pulp the apples1 which should be baked1 and their skins and cores removed2 put in the remaining ingredients one by one1 and1 as they are added1 mix everything very thoroughly together4 ,put the mincemeat into a stone jar with a closely-fitting lid1 and in a fortnight it will be ready for use4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made the first or second week in ,december4 ,,mince ,,pies4 #acaa4 ,,ingredients4--,good puff-paste ,no4 #abje1 mincemeat ,no4 #acji4 ,illustration3 ,,mince ,,pies4 ,mode4--,make some good puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abje2 roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/d inch1 and line some good-sized pattypans with it2 fill them with mincemeat1 cover with the paste1 and cut it off all round close to the edge of the tin4 ,put the pies into a brisk oven1 to draw the paste up1 and bake for #be minutes1 or longer1 should the pies be very large2 brush them over with the white of an egg1 beaten with the blade of a knife to a stiff froth2 sprinkle over pounded sugar1 and put them into the oven for a minute or two1 to dry the egg2 dish the pies on a white d'oyley1 and serve hot4 ,they may be merely sprinkled with pounded sugar instead of being glazed1 when that mode is preferred4 ,to re-warm them1 put the pies on the pattypans1 and let them remain in the oven for #aj minutes or #a_/d hour1 and they will be almost as good as if freshly made4 ,time4--#be to #cj minutes2 #aj minutes to re-warm them4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 each4 ,sufficient--#a_/b lb4 of paste for #d pies4 ,seasonable at ,christmas time4 ,,monday',s ,,pudding4 #acab4 ,,ingredients4--,the remains of cold plum-pudding1 brandy1 custard made with #e eggs to every pint of milk4 ,mode4--,cut the remains of a good cold plum-pudding into finger-pieces1 soak them in a little brandy1 and lay them cross-barred in a mould until full4 ,make a custard with the above proportion of milk and eggs1 flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind2 fill up the mould with it2 tie it down with a cloth1 and boil or steam it for an hour4 ,serve with a little of the custard poured over1 to which has been added a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the pudding1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,nesselrode ,,pudding4 7,a fashionable iced pudding--,carme's ,recipe47 #acac4 ,,ingredients4--#dj chestnuts1 #a lb4 of sugar1 flavouring of vanilla1 #a pint of cream1 the yolks of #ab eggs1 #a glass of ,maraschino1 #a oz4 of candied citron1 #b oz4 of currants1 #b oz4 of stoned raisins1 #a_/b pint of whipped cream1 #c eggs4 ,mode4--,blanch the chestnuts in boiling water1 remove the husks1 and pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth1 adding a few spoonfuls of syrup4 ,then rub them through a fine sieve1 and mix them in a basin with a pint of syrup made from #a lb4 of sugar1 clarified1 and flavoured with vanilla1 #a pint of cream1 and the yolks of #ab eggs4 ,set this mixture over a slow fire1 stirring it without ceasing1 and just as it begins to boil1 take it off and pass it through a tammy4 ,when it is cold1 put it into a freezing-pot1 adding the ,maraschino1 and make the mixture set2 then add the sliced citron1 the currants1 and stoned raisins 7these two latter should be soaked the day previously in ,maraschino and sugar pounded with vanilla72 the whole thus mingled1 add a plateful of whipped cream mixed with the whites of #c eggs1 beaten to a froth with a little syrup4 ,when the pudding is perfectly frozen1 put it into a pineapple-shaped mould2 close the lid1 place it again in the freezing-pan1 covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre1 and let it remain until required for table2 then turn the pudding out1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,seasonable from ,october to ,february4 ,,baked ,,orange ,,pudding4 #acad4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias1 #f oranges1 #a pint of milk1 #f eggs1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs1 and pour upon them the milk1 which should be boiling4 ,rub the rinds of #b of the oranges on sugar1 and add this1 with the juice of the remainder1 to the other ingredients4 ,beat up the eggs1 stir them in1 sweeten to taste1 and put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste4 ,bake for rather more than #a_/b hour2 turn it out of the dish1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,illustration3 ,,orange4 ,,orange 7,citrus ,aurantium74--,the principal varieties are the sweet1 or ,china orange1 and the bitter1 or ,seville orange2 the ,maltese is also worthy of notice1 from its red blood-like pulp4 ,the orange is extensively cultivated in the south of ,europe1 and in ,devonshire1 on walls with a south aspect1 it bears an abundance of fruit4 ,so great is the increase in the demand for the orange1 and so ample the supply1 that it promises to rival the apple in its popularity4 ,the orange-tree is considered young at the age of a hundred years4 ,the pulp of the orange consists of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and refreshing juice4 ,the orange blossom is proverbially chosen for the bridal wreath1 and1 from the same flower1 an essential oil is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of roses4 ,of all marmalades1 that made from the ,seville orange is the best4 ,the peel and juice of the orange are much used in culinary preparations4 ,from oranges are made preserves1 comfitures1 jellies1 glacs1 sherbet1 liqueurs1 and syrups4 ,the juice of the orange in a glass d'eau sucre makes a refreshing and wholesome drink4 ,from the clarified pulp of the orange the ,french make a delicious jelly1 which they serve in small pots1 and call crme4 ,the rasped peel of the orange is used in several sweet entremets1 to which it communicates its perfume4 ,the confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all parts of the orange4 ,confections of orange-peel are excellent tonics and stomachics4 ,persons with delicate stomachs should abstain from oranges at dessert1 because their acidity is likely to derange the digestive organs4 ,,small ,,dishes ,,of ,,pastry ,,for ,,entremets1 ,,supper-,,dishes1 c4 ,,fanchonnettes1 or ,,custard ,,tartlets4 #acae4 ,,ingredients4--,for the custard1 #d eggs1 #c_/d pint of milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar1 #c dessertspoonfuls of flour1 flavouring to taste2 the whites of #b eggs1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,well beat the eggs2 stir to them the milk1 the butter1 which should be beaten to a cream1 the sugar1 and flour2 mix these ingredients well together1 put them into a very clean saucepan1 and bring them to the simmering point1 but do not allow them to boil4 ,flavour with essence of vanilla1 bitter almonds1 lemon1 grated chocolate1 or any flavouring ingredient that may be preferred4 ,line some round tartlet-pans with good puff-paste2 fill them with the custard1 and bake in a moderate oven for about #bj minutes2 then take them out of the pans2 let them cool1 and in the mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth2 stir into this the pounded sugar1 and spread smoothly over the tartlets a little of this mixture4 ,put them in the oven again to set the icing1 but be particular that they do not scorch3 when the icing looks crisp1 they are done4 ,arrange them1 piled high in the centre1 on a white napkin1 and garnish the dish1 and in between the tartlets1 with strips of bright jelly1 or very firmly-made preserve4 ,time4--#bj minutes to bake the tartlets2 #e minutes after being iced4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the paste1 #as4 ,sufficient to fill #aj or #ab tartlets4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets1 and a spoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard instead3 this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish4 ,,almond ,,flowers4 #acaf4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste ,no4 #abje2 to every #a_/b lb4 of paste allow #c oz4 of almonds1 sifted sugar1 the white of an egg4 ,mode4--,roll the paste out to the thickness of #a_/d inch1 and1 with a round fluted cutter1 stamp out as many pieces as may be required4 ,work the paste up again1 roll it out1 and1 with a smaller cutter1 stamp out some pieces the size of a shilling4 ,brush the larger pieces over with the white of an egg1 and place one of the smaller pieces on each4 ,blanch and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise2 press them slanting into the paste closely round the rings2 and when they are all completed1 sift over some pounded sugar1 and bake for about #a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly1 and place in the centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam2 pile them high on the dish1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,sufficient4--#ah or #bj for a dish4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,fluted ,,rolls4 #acag4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste1 the white of an egg1 sifted sugar1 jelly or preserve4 ,mode4--,make some good puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abje 7trimmings answer very well for little dishes of this sort72 roll it out to the thickness of #a_/d inch1 and1 with a round fluted paste-cutter1 stamp out as many round pieces as may be required2 brush over the upper side with the white of an egg2 roll up the pieces1 pressing the paste lightly together where it joins2 place the rolls on a baking-sheet1 and bake for about #a_/d hour4 ,a few minutes before they are done1 brush them over with the white of an egg2 strew over sifted sugar1 put them back in the oven2 and when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour1 they are done4 ,place a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll1 dish them high on a napkin1 and serve cold4 ,time4--#a_/d hour before being iced2 #e to #aj minutes after4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient4--#a_/b lb4 of puff-paste for #b dishes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,pastry ,,sandwiches4 #acah4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste1 jam of any kind1 the white of an egg1 sifted sugar4 ,mode4--,roll the paste out thin2 put half of it on a baking-sheet or tin1 and spread equally over it apricot1 greengage1 or any preserve that may be preferred4 ,lay over this preserve another thin paste2 press the edges together all round2 and mark the paste in lines with a knife on the surface1 to show where to cut it when baked4 ,bake from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour2 and1 a short time before being done1 take the pastry out of the oven1 brush it over with the white of an egg1 sift over pounded sugar1 and put it back in the oven to colour4 ,when cold1 cut it into strips2 pile these on a dish pyramidically1 and serve4 ,these strips1 cut about #b inches long1 piled in circular rows1 and a plateful of flavoured whipped cream poured in the middle1 make a very pretty dish4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a hour4 ,average cost1 with #a_/b lb4 of paste1 #as4 ,sufficient4--#a_/b lb4 of paste will make #b dishes of sandwiches4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,petites ,,bouchees4 #acai4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/d lb4 of sifted sugar1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 the white of #a egg1 puff-paste4 ,mode4--,blanch the almonds1 and chop them fine2 rub the sugar on the lemon-rind1 and pound it in a mortar2 mix this with the almonds and the white of the egg4 ,roll some puff-paste out2 cut it in any shape that may be preferred1 such as diamonds1 rings1 ovals1 c41 and spread the above mixture over the paste4 ,bake the bouches in an oven1 not too hot1 and serve cold4 ,time4--#a_/d hour1 or rather more4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #a_/b lb4 of puff-paste4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,polish ,,tartlets4 #acbj4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste1 the white of an egg1 pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,roll some good puff-paste out thin1 and cut it into #b-a_/b-;inch squares2 brush each square over with the white of an egg1 then fold down the corners1 so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste2 slightly press the two pieces together1 brush them over with the egg1 sift over sugar1 and bake in a nice quick oven for about #a_/d hour4 ,when they are done1 make a little hole in the middle of the paste1 and fill it up with apricot jam1 marmalade1 or red-currant jelly4 ,pile them high in the centre of a dish1 on a napkin1 and garnish with the same preserve the tartlets are filled with4 ,time4--#a_/d hour or #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 with #a_/b lb4 of puff-paste1 #as4 ,sufficient for #b dishes of pastry4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,it should be borne in mind1 that1 for all dishes of small pastry1 such as the preceding1 trimmings of puff-pasty1 left from larger tarts1 answer as well as making the paste expressly4 ,,puits d',,amour1 or ,,puff-,,paste ,,rings4 #acba4 ,,ingredients4--,puff-paste ,no4 #abje1 the white of an egg1 sifted loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,make some good puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abje2 roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/d inch1 and1 with a round fluted paste-cutter1 stamp out as many pieces as may be required2 then work the paste up again1 and roll it out to the same thickness1 and with a smaller cutter1 stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones4 ,again stamp out the centre of these smaller rings2 brush over the others with the white of an egg1 place a small ring on the top of every large circular piece of paste1 egg over the tops1 and bake from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,sift over sugar1 put them back in the oven to colour them2 then fill the rings with preserve of any bright colour4 ,dish them high on a napkin1 and serve4 ,so many pretty dishes of pastry may be made by stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters1 and filling the pieces1 when baked1 with jelly or preserve1 that our space will not allow us to give a separate recipe for each of them2 but1 as they are all made from one paste1 and only the shape and garnishing varied1 perhaps it is not necessary1 and by exercising a little ingenuity1 variety may always be obtained4 ,half-moons1 leaves1 diamonds1 stars1 shamrocks1 rings1 etc41 are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry4 ,time4--#ae to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 with #a_/b lb4 of paste1 #as4 ,sufficient for #b dishes of pastry4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,paradise ,,pudding4 #acbb4 ,,ingredients4--#c eggs1 #c apples1 #a_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #c oz4 of currants1 salt and grated nutmeg to taste1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/b wineglassful of brandy4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and mince the apples into small pieces1 and mix them with the other dry ingredients2 beat up the eggs1 moisten the mixture with these1 and beat it well2 stir in the brandy1 and put the pudding into a buttered mould2 tie it down with a cloth1 boil for #a-a_/b hour1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,pease ,,pudding4 #acbc4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of split peas1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b eggs1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put the peas to soak over-night1 in rain-water1 and float off any that are wormeaten or discoloured4 ,tie them loosely in a clean cloth1 leaving a little room for them to swell1 and put them on to boil in cold rain-water1 allowing #b-a_/b hours after the water has simmered up4 ,when the peas are tender1 take them up and drain2 rub them through a colander with a wooden spoon2 add the butter1 eggs1 pepper1 and salt2 beat all well together for a few minutes1 until the ingredients are well incorporated2 then tie them tightly in a floured cloth2 boil the pudding for another hour1 turn it on to the dish1 and serve very hot4 ,this pudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork1 and is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef4 ,time4--#b-a_/b hours to boil the peas1 tied loosely in the cloth2 #a hour for the pudding4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,,baked ,,plum-,,pudding4 #acbd4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of flour1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a lb4 of raisins1 #a lb4 of suet1 #b eggs1 #a pint of milk1 a few slices of candied peel4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely2 mix with it the flour1 currants1 stoned raisins1 and candied peel2 moisten with the well-beaten eggs1 and add sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thick batter4 ,put it into a buttered dish1 and bake in a good oven from #b-a_/d to #b-a_/b hours2 turn it out1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,for a very plain pudding1 use only half the quantity of fruit1 omit the eggs1 and substitute milk or water for them4 ,the above ingredients make a large family pudding2 for a small one1 half the quantity would be found ample2 but it must be baked quite #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--,large pudding1 #b-a_/d to #b-a_/b hours2 half the size1 #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #i or #aj persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,illustration3 ,,raisin-,,grape4 ,,raisin ,,grape4--,all the kinds of raisins have much the same virtues2 they are nutritive and balsamic1 but they are very subject to fermentation with juices of any kind2 and hence1 when eaten immoderately1 they often bring on colics4 ,there are many varieties of grape used for raisins2 the fruit of ,valencia is that mostly dried for culinary purposes1 whilst most of the table kinds are grown in ,malaga1 and called ,muscatels4 ,the finest of all table raisins come from ,provence or ,italy2 the most esteemed of all are those of ,roquevaire2 they are very large and very sweet4 ,this sort is rarely eaten by any but the most wealthy4 ,the dried ,malaga1 or ,muscatel raisins1 which come to this country packed in small boxes1 and nicely preserved in bunches1 are variable in their quality1 but mostly of a rich flavour1 when new1 juicy1 and of a deep purple hue4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,plum-,,pudding1 made without ,eggs4 #acbe4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of raisins1 #f oz4 of currants1 #a_/d lb4 of chopped suet1 #a_/d lb4 of brown sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of mashed carrot1 #a_/d lb4 of mashed potatoes1 #a tablespoonful of treacle1 #a oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 #a oz4 of candied citron4 ,mode4--,mix the flour1 currants1 suet1 and sugar well together2 have ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato1 which stir into the other ingredients2 add the treacle and lemon-peel2 but put no liquid in the mixture1 or it will be spoiled4 ,tie it loosely in a cloth1 or1 if put in a basin1 do not quite fill it1 as the pudding should have room to swell1 and boil it for #d hours4 ,serve with brandy-sauce4 ,this pudding is better for being mixed over-night4 ,time4--#d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,an ,,unrivalled ,,plum-,,pudding4 #acbf4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of muscatel raisins1 #a-c_/d lb4 of currants1 #a lb4 of sultana raisins1 #b lbs4 of the finest moist sugar1 #b lbs4 of bread crumbs1 #af eggs1 #b lbs4 of finely-chopped suet1 #f oz4 of mixed candied peel1 the rind of #b lemons1 #a oz4 of ground nutmeg1 #a oz4 of ground cinnamon1 #a_/b oz4 of pounded bitter almonds1 #a_/d pint of brandy4 ,mode4--,stone and cut up the raisins1 but do not chop them2 wash and dry the currants1 and cut the candied peel into thin slices4 ,mix all the dry ingredients well together1 and moisten with the eggs1 which should be well beaten and strained1 to the pudding2 stir in the brandy1 and1 when all is thoroughly mixed1 well butter and flour a stout new pudding-cloth2 put in the pudding1 tie it down very tightly and closely1 boil from #f to #h hours1 and serve with brandy-sauce4 ,a few sweet almonds1 blanched and cut in strips1 and stuck on the pudding1 ornament it prettily4 ,this quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds4 ,for small families this is the most desirable way1 as the above will be found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions4 ,time4--#f to #h hours4 ,average cost1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,sufficient for #ab or #ad persons4 ,note4--,the muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose 7not in bunches73 they are then scarcely higher in price than the ordinary raisins1 and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding4 ,illustration3 ,,sultana ,,grape4 ,,sultana ,,grape4--,we have elsewhere stated that the small black grape grown in ,corinth and the ,ionian ,isles is1 when dried1 the common currant of the grocers' shops2 the white or yellow grape1 grown in the same places1 is somewhat larger than the black variety1 and is that which produces the ,sultana raisin4 ,it has been called ,sultana from its delicate qualities and unique growth3 the finest are those of ,smyrna4 ,they have not sufficient flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and cakes1 but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing1 that is to say1 for introducing in company with the richer sorts of ,valencias or ,muscatels4 ,in white puddings1 or cakes1 too1 where the whiteness must be preserved1 the ,sultana raisin should be used4 ,but the greatest value of this fruit in the cuisine is that of its saving labour2 for it has no stones4 ,half ,muscatels and half ,sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes4 ,a ,,plain ,,christmas ,,pudding ,,for ,,children4 #acbg4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a lb4 of bread crumbs1 #c_/d lb4 of stoned raisins1 #c_/d lb4 of currants1 #c_/d lb4 of suet1 #c or #d eggs1 milk1 #b oz4 of candied peel1 #a teaspoonful of powdered allspice1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,let the suet be finely chopped1 the raisins stoned1 and the currants well washed1 picked1 and dried4 ,mix these with the other dry ingredients1 and stir all well together2 beat and strain the eggs to the pudding1 stir these in1 and add just sufficient milk to make it mix properly4 ,tie it up in a well-floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil for at least #e hours4 ,serve with a sprig of holly placed in the middle of the pudding1 and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #i or #aj children4 ,seasonable at ,christmas4 ,,raisins4--,raisins are grapes1 prepared by suffering them to remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe1 and then drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven4 ,the sun-dried grapes are sweet1 the oven-dried of an acid flavour4 ,the common way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches of them together1 whilst yet on the vine1 and dip them into a hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of olives3 this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle1 after which they are left on the vine three or four days1 separated1 on sticks in a horizontal situation1 and then dried in the sun at leisure1 after being cut from the tree4 ,,christmas ,,plum-,,pudding4 7,very ,good47 #acbh4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of raisins1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of mixed peel1 #c_/d lb4 of bread crumbs1 #c_/d lb4 of suet1 #h eggs1 #a wineglassful of brandy4 ,illustration3 ,,christmas ,,plum-,,pudding ,,in ,,mould4 ,mode4--,stone and cut the raisins in halves1 but do not chop them2 wash1 pick1 and dry the currants1 and mince the suet finely2 cut the candied peel into thin slices1 and grate down the bread into fine crumbs4 ,when all these dry ingredients are prepared1 mix them well together2 then moisten the mixture with the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and the brandy2 stir well1 that everything may be very thoroughly blended1 and press the pudding into a buttered mould2 tie it down tightly with a floured cloth1 and boil for #e or #f hours4 ,it may be boiled in a cloth without a mould1 and will require the same time allowed for cooking4 ,as ,christmas puddings are usually made a few days before they are required for table1 when the pudding is taken out of the pot1 hang it up immediately1 and put a plate or saucer underneath to catch the water that may drain from it4 ,the day it is to be eaten1 plunge it into boiling water1 and keep it boiling for at least #b hours2 then turn it out of the mould1 and serve with brandy-sauce4 ,on ,christmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the pudding1 and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it1 which1 at the moment of serving1 is lighted1 and the pudding thus brought to table encircled in flame4 ,time4--#e or #f hours the first time of boiling2 #b hours the day it is to be served4 ,average cost1 #ds4 ,sufficient for a quart mould for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable on the #beth of ,december1 and on various festive occasions till ,march4 ,note4--,five or six of these puddings should be made at one time1 as they will keep good for many weeks1 and in cases where unexpected guests arrive1 will be found an acceptable1 and1 as it only requires warming through1 a quickly-prepared dish4 ,moulds of every shape and size are manufactured for these puddings1 and may be purchased of ,messrs4 ,r4 ,j4 ,slack1 #ccf1 ,strand4 ,,brandy is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine1 separated from the aqueous part1 the colouring matter1 c41 by distillation4 ,the word is of ,german origin1 and in its ,german form1 brantuein1 signifies burnt wine1 or wine that has undergone the action of fire2 brandies1 so called1 however1 have been made from potatoes1 carrots1 beetroot1 pears1 and other vegetable substances2 but they are all inferior to true brandy4 ,brandy is prepared in most wine countries1 but that of ,france is the most esteemed4 ,it is procured not only by distilling the wine itself1 but also by fermenting and distilling the marc1 or residue of the pressings of the grape4 ,it is procured indifferently from red or white wine1 and different wines yield very different proportions of it1 the strongest1 of course1 giving the largest quantity4 ,brandy obtained from marc has a more acrid taste than that from wine4 ,the celebrated brandy of ,cognac1 a town in the department of ,charente1 and that brought from ,andraye1 seem to owe their excellence from being made from white wine4 ,like other spirit1 brandy is colourless when recently distilled2 by mere keeping1 however1 owing1 probably1 to some change in the soluble matter contained in it1 it acquires a slight colour1 which is much increased by keeping in casks1 and is made of the required intensity by the addition of burnt sugar or other colouring matter4 ,what is called ,british brandy is not1 in fact1 brandy1 which is the name1 as we have said1 of a spirit distilled from wine2 but is a spirit made chiefly from malt spirit1 with the addition of mineral acids and various flavouring ingredients1 the exact composition being kept secret4 ,it is distilled somewhat extensively in this country2 real brandy scarcely at all4 ,the brandies imported into ,england are chiefly from ,bordeaux1 ,rochelle1 and ,cognac4 ,a ,,pound ,,plum-,,pudding4 #acbi4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of suet1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a lb4 of stoned raisins1 #h eggs1 #a_/b grated nutmeg1 #b oz4 of sliced candied peel1 #a teaspoonful of ground ginger1 #a_/b lb4 of bread crumbs1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of milk4 ,illustration3 ,,baked ,,pudding ,,or ,,cake-,,mould4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely2 mix with it the dry ingredients2 stir these well together1 and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten with4 ,beat up the mixture well1 and should the above proportion of milk not be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency1 a little more should be added4 ,press the pudding into a mould1 tie it in a floured cloth1 and boil for #e hours1 or rather longer1 and serve with brandy-sauce4 ,time4--#e hours1 or longer4 ,average cost1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,note4--,the above pudding may be baked instead of boiled2 it should be put into a buttered mould or tin1 and baked for about #b hours2 a smaller one would take about #a-a_/d hour4 ,,citron4--,the fruit of the citron-tree 7,citrus medica7 is acidulous1 antiseptic1 and antiscorbutic3 it excites the appetite1 and stops vomiting1 and1 like lemon-juice1 has been greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism1 gout1 and scurvy4 ,mixed with cordials1 it is used as an antidote to the machineel poison4 ,the candied peel is prepared in the same manner as orange or lemon-peel2 that is to say1 the peel is boiled in water until quite soft1 and then suspended in concentrated syrup 7in the cold71 after which it is either dried in a current of warm air1 or in a stove1 at a heat not exceeding #abj ,fahrenheit4 ,the syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by reboiling it once or twice during the process4 ,it may be dusted with powdered lump sugar1 if necessary4 ,the citron is supposed to be the ,median1 ,assyrian1 or ,persian apple of the ,greeks4 ,it is described by ,risso as having a majestic appearance1 its shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose beauty and size astonish the observer1 whilst their odour gratifies his senses4 ,in ,china there is an enormous variety1 but the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries4 ,,plum-,,pudding ,,of ,,fresh ,,fruit4 #accj4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of suet crust ,no4 #a-a_/b pint of ,orleans or any other kind of plum1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar4 ,mode4--,line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the thickness of about #a_/b inch2 fill the basin with the fruit1 put in the sugar1 and cover with crust4 ,fold the edges over1 and pinch them together1 to prevent the juice escaping4 ,tie over a floured cloth1 put the pudding into boiling water1 and boil from #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,turn it out of the basin1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--#b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable1 with various kinds of plums1 from the beginning of ,august to the beginning of ,october4 ,illustration3 ,,plum4 ,,plums4--,almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are agreeable and refreshing3 it is not a nourishing fruit1 and if indulged in to excess1 when unripe1 is almost certain to cause diarrhoea and cholera4 ,weak and delicate persons had better abstain from plums altogether4 ,the modes of preparing plums are as numerous as the varieties of the fruit4 ,the objections raised against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit1 which even the invalid may eat in moderation4 ,,plum ,,tart4 #acca4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of good short crust ,no4 #abaa1 #a-a_/b pint of plums1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar4 ,illustration3 ,,plum ,,tart4 ,mode4--,line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe ,no4 #abaa2 fill the dish with plums1 and place a small cup or jar1 upside down1 in the midst of them4 ,put in the sugar1 cover the pie with crust1 ornament the edges1 and bake in a good oven from #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,when puff-crust is preferred to short crust1 use that made by recipe ,no4 #abjf1 and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth with a knife2 sprinkle over a little sifted sugar1 and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable1 with various kinds of plums1 from the beginning of ,august to the beginning of ,october4 ,,potato ,,pasty4 #accb4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of rump-steak or mutton cutlets1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a_/c pint of weak broth or gravy1 #a oz4 of butter1 mashed potatoes4 ,illustration3 ,,potato-,,pasty ,,pan4 ,mode4--,place the meat1 cut in small pieces1 at the bottom of the pan2 season it with pepper and salt1 and add the gravy and butter broken1 into small pieces4 ,put on the perforated plate1 with its valve-pipe screwed on1 and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube with nicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk1 and finish the surface of them in any ornamental manner4 ,if carefully baked1 the potatoes will be covered with a delicate brown crust1 retaining all the savoury steam rising from the meat4 ,send it to table as it comes from the oven1 with a napkin folded round it4 ,time4--#dj to #fj minutes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,potato ,,pudding4 #accc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of mashed potatoes1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b eggs1 #a_/d pint of milk1 #c tablespoonfuls of sherry1 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt1 the juice and rind of #a small lemon1 #b oz4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,boil sufficient potatoes to make #a_/b lb4 when mashed2 add to these the butter1 eggs1 milk1 sherry1 lemon-juice1 and sugar2 mince the lemon-peel very finely1 and beat all the ingredients well together4 ,put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake for rather more than #a_/b hour4 ,to enrich it1 add a few pounded almonds1 and increase the quantity of eggs and butter4 ,time4--#a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,ice ,,or ,,glaze ,,pastry4 #accd4 ,to glaze pastry1 which is the usual method adopted for meat or raised pies1 break an egg1 separate the yolk from the white1 and beat the former for a short time4 ,then1 when the pastry is nearly baked1 take it out of the oven1 brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg1 and put it back in the oven to set the glaze4 #acce4 ,to ice pastry1 which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts and sweet dishes of pastry1 put the white of an egg on a plate1 and with the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth4 ,when the pastry is nearly baked1 brush it over with this1 and sift over some pounded sugar2 put it back into the oven to set the glaze1 and1 in a few minutes1 it will be done4 ,great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burn in the oven1 which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on4 ,sufficient--,allow #a egg and #a-a_/h oz4 of sugar to glaze #c tarts4 ,illustration3 ,,sugar ,,canes4 ,,sugar has been happily called the honey of reeds4 ,the sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the ,east ,indies4 ,the ,chinese have cultivated it for #b1jjj years4 ,the ,egyptians1 ,phoenicians1 and ,jews knew nothing about it4 ,the ,greek physicians are the first who speak of it4 ,it was not till the year #adga that a ,venetian discovered the method of purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar4 ,he gained an immense fortune by this discovery4 ,our supplies are now obtained from ,barbadoes1 ,jamaica1 ,mauritius1 ,ceylon1 the ,east and ,west ,indies generally1 and the ,united ,states2 but the largest supplies come from ,cuba4 ,sugar is divided into the following classes3--,refined sugar1 white clayed1 brown clayed1 brown raw1 and molasses4 ,the sugarcane grows to the height of six1 twelve1 or even sometimes twenty feet4 ,it is propagated from cuttings1 requires much hoeing and weeding1 giving employment to thousands upon thousands of slaves in the slave countries1 and attains maturity in twelve or thirteen months4 ,when ripe1 it is cut down close to the stole1 the stems are divided into lengths of about three feet1 which are made up into bundles1 and carried to the mill1 to be crushed between rollers4 ,in the process of crushing1 the juice runs down into a reservoir1 from which1 after a while1 it is drawn through a siphon2 that is to say1 the clear fluid is taken from the scum4 ,this fluid undergoes several processes of drying and refining2 the methods varying in different manufactories4 ,there are some large establishments engaged in sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of ,blackwall and ,bethnal ,green1 ,london4 ,the process is mostly in the hands of ,german workmen4 ,sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust4 ,pure sugar is highly nutritious1 adding to the fatty tissue of the body2 but it is not easy of digestion4 ,,baked ,,raisin ,,pudding4 7,plain and ,economical47 #accf4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #c_/d lb4 of stoned raisins1 #a_/b lb4 of suet1 a pinch of salt1 #a oz4 of sugar1 a little grated nutmeg1 milk4 ,mode4--,chop the suet finely2 stone the raisins and cut them in halves2 mix these with the suet1 add the salt1 sugar1 and grated nutmeg1 and moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of thick batter4 ,put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake for #a-a_/b hour1 or rather longer4 ,turn it out of the dish1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,this is a very plain recipe1 and suitable where there is a family of children4 ,it1 of course1 can be much improved by the addition of candied peel1 currants1 and rather a larger proportion of suet3 a few eggs would also make the pudding richer4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,introduction ,,of ,,sugar4--,sugar was first known as a drug1 and used by the apothecaries1 and with them was a most important article4 ,at its first appearance1 some said it was heating2 others1 that it injured the chest2 others1 that it disposed persons to apoplexy2 the truth1 however1 soon conquered these fancies1 and the use of sugar has increased every day1 and there is no household in the civilized world which can do without it4 ,,boiled ,,raisin ,,pudding4 7,plain and ,economical47 #accg4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of stoned raisins1 #a_/b lb4 of chopped suet1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 milk4 ,mode4--,after having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely1 mix them with the flour1 add the salt1 and when these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to make it into rather a stiff paste4 ,tie it up in a floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil for #d hours3 serve with sifted sugar4 ,this pudding may1 also1 be made in a long shape1 the same as a rolled jam-pudding1 and will then not require so long boiling2--#b-a_/b hours would then be quite sufficient4 ,time4--,made round1 #d hours2 in a long shape1 #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #h or #i persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,boiled ,,rhubarb ,,pudding4 #acch4 ,,ingredients4--#d or #e sticks of fine rhubarb1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #c_/d lb4 of suet-crust ,no4 #abae4 ,mode4--,make a suet-crust with #c_/d lb4 of flour1 by recipe ,no4 #abae1 and line a buttered basin with it4 ,wash and wipe the rhubarb1 and1 if old1 string it--that is to say1 pare off the outside skin4 ,cut it into inch lengths1 fill the basin with it1 put in the sugar1 and cover with crust4 ,pinch the edges of the pudding together1 tie over it a floured cloth1 put it into boiling water1 and boil from #b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,turn it out of the basin1 and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar4 ,time4--#b to #b-a_/b hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable in spring4 ,,rhubarb ,,tart4 #acci4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abjf1 about #e sticks of large rhubarb1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar4 ,mode4--,make a puff-crust by recipe ,no4 #abjf2 line the edges of a deep pie-dish with it1 and wash1 wipe1 and cut the rhubarb into pieces about #a inch long4 ,should it be old and tough1 string it1 that is to say1 pare off the outside skin4 ,pile the fruit high in the dish1 as it shrinks very much in the cooking2 put in the sugar1 cover with crust1 ornament the edges1 and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,if wanted very nice1 brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth1 then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar1 and put it in the oven just to set the glaze3 this should be done when the tart is nearly baked4 ,a small quantity of lemon-juice1 and a little of the peel minced1 are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarb tart4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in spring4 ,illustration3 ,,rhubarb4 ,,rhubarb4--,this is one of the most useful of all garden productions that are put into pies and puddings4 ,it was comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty years1 but it is now cultivated in almost every ,british garden4 ,the part used is the footstalks of the leaves1 which1 peeled and cut into small pieces1 are put into tarts1 either mixed with apples or alone4 ,when quite young1 they are much better not peeled4 ,rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out4 ,the common rhubarb is a native of ,asia2 the scarlet variety has the finest flavour4 ,turkey rhubarb1 the well-known medicinal drug1 is the root of a very elegant plant 7,rheum palmatum71 coming to greatest perfection in ,tartary4 ,for culinary purposes1 all kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched4 ,,raised ,,pie ,,of ,,poultry ,,or ,,game4 #acdj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of water1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt 7these are for the crust72 #a large fowl or pheasant1 a few slices of veal cutlet1 a few slices of dressed ham1 forcemeat1 seasoning of nutmeg1 allspice1 pepper and salt1 gravy4 ,illustration3 ,,raised ,,pie4 ,mode4--,make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter1 flour1 water1 and eggs1 and work it up very smoothly2 butter a raised-pie mould1 as shown in ,no4 #aaij1 and line it with the paste4 ,previously to making the crust1 bone the fowl1 or whatever bird is intended to be used1 lay it1 breast downwards1 upon a cloth1 and season the inside well with pounded mace1 allspice1 pepper1 and salt2 then spread over it a layer of forcemeat1 then a layer of seasoned veal1 and then one of ham1 and then another layer of forcemeat1 and roll the fowl over1 making the skin meet at the back4 ,line the pie with forcemeat1 put in the fowl1 and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal and ham and forcemeat2 wet the edges of the pie1 put on the cover1 pinch the edges together with the paste-pincers1 and decorate it with leaves2 brush it over with beaten yolk of egg1 and bake in a moderate oven for #d hours4 ,in the mean time1 make a good strong gravy from the bones1 pour it through a funnel into the hole at the top2 cover this hole with a small leaf1 and the pie1 when cold1 will be ready for use4 ,let it be remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it is poured into the pie1 as1 when cold1 it should form a firm jelly1 and not be the least degree in a liquid state4 ,this recipe is suitable for all kinds of poultry or game1 using one or more birds1 according to the size of the pie intended to be made2 but the birds must always be boned4 ,truffles1 mushrooms1 c41 added to this pie1 make it much nicer2 and1 to enrich it1 lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips of bacon4 ,this method of forming raised pies in a mould is generally called a timbale1 and has the advantage of being more easily made than one where the paste is raised by the hands2 the crust1 besides1 being eatable4 7,see coloured plate ,n #a47 ,time4--,large pie1 #d hours4 ,average cost1 #fs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable1 with poultry1 all the year2 with game1 from ,september to ,march4 ,,raised ,,pie ,,of ,,veal ,,and ,,ham4 #acda4 ,,ingredients4--#c or #d lbs4 of veal cutlets1 a few slices of bacon or ham1 seasoning of pepper1 salt1 nutmeg1 and allspice1 forcemeat ,no4 #dae1 #b lbs4 of hot-water paste ,no4 #abag1 #a_/b pint of good strong gravy4 ,mode4--,to raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficult task1 and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks4 ,the process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt1 and plenty of practice given to the making of raised pies1 as by that means only will success be insured4 ,make a hot-water paste by recipe ,no4 #abag1 and from the mass raise the pie with the hands2 if this cannot be accomplished1 cut out pieces for the top and bottom1 and a long piece for the sides2 fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg1 and pinch the edges well together2 then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dae1 put in a layer of veal1 and a plentiful seasoning of salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and allspice1 as1 let it be remembered1 these pies taste very insipid unless highly seasoned4 ,over the seasoning place a layer of sliced bacon or cooked ham1 and then a layer of forcemeat1 veal seasoning1 and bacon1 and so on until the meat rises to about an inch above the paste2 taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat1 to fill all the cavities of the pie1 and to lay in the meat firmly and compactly4 ,brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg1 put on the cover1 press the edges1 and pinch them round with paste-pincers4 ,make a hole in the middle of the lid1 and ornament the pie with leaves1 which should be stuck on with the white of an egg2 then brush it all over with the beaten yolk of an egg1 and bake the pie in an oven with a soaking heat from #c to #d hours4 ,to ascertain when it is done1 run a sharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the middle of the pie1 and if the meat feels tender1 it is sufficiently baked4 ,have ready about #a_/b pint of very strong gravy1 pour it through a funnel into the hole at the top1 stop up the hole with a small leaf of baked paste1 and put the pie away until wanted for use4 ,should it acquire too much colour in the baking1 cover it with white paper1 as the crust should not in the least degree be burnt4 ,mushrooms1 truffles1 and many other ingredients1 may be added to enrich the flavour of these pies1 and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded4 ,these pies are more frequently served cold than hot1 and form excellent dishes for cold suppers or breakfasts4 ,the cover of the pie is sometimes carefully removed1 leaving the perfect edges1 and the top decorated with square pieces of very bright aspic jelly3 this has an exceedingly pretty effect4 ,time4--,about #d hours4 ,average cost1 #fs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a very large pie4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,baked ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,i4 #acdb4 ,,ingredients4--#a small teacupful of rice1 #d eggs1 #a pint of milk1 #b oz4 of fresh butter1 #b oz4 of beef marrow1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy1 nutmeg1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 the rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan1 and let it infuse till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon2 in the mean time1 boil the rice until tender in water1 with a very small quantity of salt1 and1 when done1 let it be thoroughly drained4 ,beat the eggs1 stir to them the milk1 which should be strained1 the butter1 marrow1 currants1 and remaining ingredients2 add the rice1 and mix all well together4 ,line the edges of the dish with puff-paste1 put in the pudding1 and bake for about #c_/d hour in a slow oven4 ,slices of candied-peel may be added at pleasure1 or ,sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a winter pudding1 when fresh fruits are not obtainable4 ,,rice1 with proper management in cooking it1 forms a very valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food1 and1 in years of scarcity1 has been found eminently useful in lessening the consumption of flour4 ,when boiled1 it should be so managed that the grains1 though soft1 should be as little broken and as dry as possible4 ,the water in which it is dressed should only simmer1 and not boil hard4 ,very little water should be used1 as the grains absorb a great deal1 and1 consequently1 swell much2 and if they take up too much at first1 it is difficult to get rid of it4 ,baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing it4 ,,ii4 7,plain and ,economical2 a nice ,pudding for ,children47 #acdc4 ,,ingredients4--#a teacupful of rice1 #b tablespoonfuls of moist sugar1 #a quart of milk1 #a_/b oz4 of butter or #b small tablespoonfuls of chopped suet1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,wash the rice1 put it into a pie-dish with the sugar1 pour in the milk1 and stir these ingredients well together2 then add the butter cut up into very small pieces1 or1 instead of this1 the above proportion of finely-minced suet2 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and bake the pudding1 in a moderate oven1 from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,as the rice is not previously cooked1 care must be taken that the pudding be very slowly baked1 to give plenty of time for the rice to swell1 and for it to be very thoroughly done4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f children4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,plain ,,boiled ,,rice ,,pudding4 #acdd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of rice4 ,mode4--,wash the rice1 tie it in a pudding-cloth1 allowing room for the rice to swell1 and put it into a saucepan of cold water2 boil it gently for #b hours1 and if1 after a time1 the cloth seems tied too loosely1 take the rice up and tighten the cloth4 ,serve with sweet melted butter1 or cold butter and sugar1 or stewed fruit1 jam1 or marmalade2 any of which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice4 ,time4--#b hours after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,rice ,,pudding4 ,i4 #acde4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of rice1 #a-a_/b pint of new milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 #d eggs1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #d large tablespoonfuls of moist sugar1 flavouring to taste4 ,mode4--,stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk1 and1 when it is tender1 pour it into a basin2 stir in the butter1 and let it stand to cool2 then beat the eggs1 add these to the rice with the sugar1 salt1 and any flavouring that may be approved1 such as nutmeg1 powdered cinnamon1 grated lemon-peel1 essence of bitter almonds1 or vanilla4 ,when all is well stirred1 put the pudding into a buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 plunge it into boiling water1 and boil for #a-a_/d hour4 ,time4--#a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,rice4--,of the varieties of rice brought to our market1 that from ,bengal is chiefly of the species denominated cargo rice1 and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast1 but peculiarly sweet and large-grained2 it does not readily separate from the husk1 but it is preferred by the natives to all the others4 ,patua rice is more esteemed in ,europe1 and is of very superior qualify2 it is small-grained1 rather long and wiry1 and is remarkably white4 ,the ,carolina rice is considered as the best1 and is likewise the dearest in ,london4 ,,ii4 7,with ,dried or ,fresh fruit2 a nice dish for the ,nursery47 #acdf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of rice1 #a pint of any kind of fresh fruit that may be preferred1 or #a_/b lb4 of raisins or currants4 ,mode4--,wash the rice1 tie it in a cloth1 allowing room for it to swell1 and put it into a saucepan of cold water2 let it boil for an hour1 then take it up1 untie the cloth1 stir in the fruit1 and tie it up again tolerably tight1 and put it into the water for the remainder of the time4 ,boil for another hour1 or rather longer1 and serve with sweet sauce1 if made with dried fruit1 and with plain sifted sugar and a little cream or milk1 if made with fresh fruit4 ,time4--#a hour to boil the rice without the fruit2 #a hour1 or longer1 afterwards4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g children4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,this pudding is very good made with apples3 they should be pared cored1 and cut into thin slices4 ,,boiled ,,rice ,,for ,,curries1 c4 #acdg4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of rice1 water1 salt4 ,mode4--,pick1 wash1 and soak the rice in plenty of cold water2 then have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 drop the rice into it1 and keep it boiling quickly1 with the lid uncovered1 until it is tender1 but not soft4 ,take it up1 drain it1 and put it on a dish before the fire to dry3 do not handle it much with a spoon1 but shake it about a little with two forks1 that it may all be equally dried1 and strew over a little salt4 ,it is now ready to serve1 and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself1 or be laid round the dish as a border1 with a curry or fricassee in the centre4 ,some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon1 and then brush it over with the yolk of an egg1 and set it in the oven to colour2 but the rice well boiled1 white1 dry1 and with every grain distinct1 is by far the more preferable mode of dressing it4 ,during the process of boiling1 the rice should be attentively watched1 that it be not overdone1 as1 if this is the case1 it will have a mashed and soft appearance4 ,time4--#ae to #be minutes1 according to the quality of the rice4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 ,sufficient for a large dish of curry4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice1 in the native rough state1 with the husk on1 is called paddy1 both in ,india and ,america1 and it will keep better1 and for a much longer time1 in this state1 than after the husk has been removed2 besides which1 prepared rice is apt to become dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship1 and in the warehouses4 ,it is sometimes brought to ,england in the shape of paddy1 and the husk detached here4 ,paddy pays less duty than shelled rice4 ,,to ,,boil ,,rice ,,for ,,curries1 c4 7,soyer's ,recipe47 #acdh4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of the best ,carolina rice1 #b quarts of water1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 a little salt4 ,mode4--,wash the rice well in two waters2 make #b quarts of water boiling1 and throw the rice into it2 boil it until three-parts done1 then drain it on a sieve4 ,butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan1 put in the rice1 place the lid on tightly1 and set it by the side of the fire until the rice is perfectly tender1 occasionally shaking the pan to prevent its sticking4 ,prepared thus1 every grain should be separate and white4 ,either dish it separately1 or place it round the curry as a border4 ,time4--#ae to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #b moderate-sized curries4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,buttered ,,rice4 #acdi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of rice1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 sugar to taste1 grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon4 ,mode4--,wash and pick the rice1 drain and put it into a saucepan with the milk2 let it swell gradually1 and1 when tender1 pour off the milk2 stir in the butter1 sugar1 and nutmeg or cinnamon1 and1 when the butter is thoroughly melted1 and the whole is quite hot1 serve4 ,after the milk is poured off1 be particular that the rice does not burn3 to prevent this1 do not cease stirring it4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to swell the rice4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice was held in great esteem by the ancients3 they considered it as a very beneficial food for the chest2 therefore it was recommended in cases of consumption1 and to persons subject to spitting of blood4 ,,savoury ,,casserole ,,of ,,rice4 ,or ,rice ,border1 for ,ragouts1 ,fricassees1 c4 7an ,entree74 #acej4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of rice1 #c pints of weak stock or broth1 #b slices of fat ham1 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,illustration3 ,,casserole ,,of ,,rice4 ,mode4--,a casserole of rice1 when made in a mould1 is not such a difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand4 ,it is an elegant and inexpensive entre1 as the remains of cold fish1 flesh1 or fowl may be served as ragots1 fricassees1 c41 inclosed in the casserole4 ,it requires great nicety in its preparation1 the principal thing to attend to being the boiling of the rice1 as1 if this is not sufficiently cooked1 the casserole1 when moulded1 will have a rough appearance1 which would entirely spoil it4 ,after having washed the rice in two or three waters1 drain it well1 and put it into a stewpan with the stock1 ham1 and salt2 cover the pan closely1 and let the rice gradually swell over a slow fire1 occasionally stirring1 to prevent its sticking4 ,when it is quite soft1 strain it1 pick out the pieces of ham1 and1 with the back of a large wooden spoon1 mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste4 ,then well grease a mould 7moulds are made purposely for rice borders71 and turn it upside down for a minute or two1 to drain away the fat1 should there be too much2 put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it2 place a piece of soft bread in the middle1 and cover it with rice2 press it in equally with the spoon1 and let it cool4 ,then dip the mould into hot water1 turn the casserole carefully on to a dish1 mark where the lid is to be formed on the top1 by making an incision with the point of a knife about an inch from the edge all round1 and put it into a very hot oven4 ,brush it over with a little clarified butter1 and bake about #a_/b hour1 or rather longer2 then carefully remove the lid1 which will be formed by the incision having been made all round1 and remove the bread1 in small pieces1 with the point of a penknife1 being careful not to injure the casserole4 ,fill the centre with the ragot or fricassee1 which should be made thick2 put on the cover1 glaze it1 place it in the oven to set the glaze1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,the casserole should not be emptied too much1 as it is liable to crack from the weight of whatever is put in2 and in baking it1 let the oven be very hot1 or the casserole will probably break4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to swell the rice4 ,sufficient for #b moderate-sized casseroles4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sweet ,,casserole ,,of ,,rice 7an ,entremets74 #acea4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of rice1 #c pints of milk1 sugar to taste1 flavouring of bitter almonds1 #c oz4 of butter1 the yolks of #c eggs4 ,mode4--,this is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury casserole1 only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt4 ,put the milk into a stewpan1 with sufficient essence of bitter almonds to flavour it well2 then add the rice1 which should be washed1 picked1 and drained1 and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire4 ,when it is tender1 stir in the sugar1 butter1 and yolks of eggs2 butter a mould1 press in the rice1 and proceed in exactly the same manner as in recipe ,no4 #acej4 ,when the casserole is ready1 fill it with a compte of any fruit that may be preferred1 or with melted apricot-jam1 and serve4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour to swell the rice1 #a_/b to #c_/d hour to bake the casserole4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the compte or jam1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #b casseroles4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,french ,,rice ,,pudding1 or ,,gateau ,,de ,,riz4 #aceb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #a_/d lb4 of rice allow #a quart of milk1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 sugar to taste1 #d oz4 of butter1 #f eggs1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind1 and let it infuse for #a_/b hour1 or until the former is well flavoured2 then take out the peel2 have ready the rice washed1 picked1 and drained2 put it into the milk1 and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire4 ,stir in the butter1 salt1 and sugar1 and when properly sweetened1 add the yolks of the eggs1 and then the whites1 both of which should be well beaten1 and added separately to the rice4 ,butter a mould1 strew in some fine bread crumbs1 and let them be spread equally over it2 then carefully pour in the rice1 and bake the pudding in a slow oven for #a hour4 ,turn it out of the mould1 and garnish the dish with preserved cherries1 or any bright-coloured jelly or jam4 ,this pudding would be exceedingly nice1 flavoured with essence of vanilla4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour for the rice to swell2 to be baked #a hour in a slow oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,baked ,,or ,,boiled ,,ground ,,rice ,,pudding4 #acec4 ,,ingredients4--#b pints of milk1 #f tablespoonfuls of ground rice1 sugar to taste1 #d eggs1 flavouring of lemon-rind1 nutmeg1 bitter almonds or bay-leaf4 ,mode4--,put #a-a_/b pint of the milk into a stewpan1 with any of the above flavourings1 and bring it to the boiling-point1 and1 with the other #a_/b pint of milk1 mix the ground rice to a smooth batter2 strain the boiling milk to this1 and stir over the fire until the mixture is tolerably thick2 then pour it into a basin1 leave it uncovered1 and when nearly or quite cold1 sweeten it to taste1 and add the eggs1 which should be previously well beaten1 with a little salt4 ,put the pudding into a well-buttered basin1 tie it down with a cloth1 plunge it into boiling water1 and boil for #a-a_/b hour4 ,for a baked pudding1 proceed in precisely the same manner1 only using half the above proportion of ground rice1 with the same quantity of all the other ingredients3 an hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven4 ,stewed fruit1 or preserves1 or marmalade1 may be served with either the boiled or baked pudding1 and will be found an improvement4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour to boil1 #a hour to bake4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,iced ,,rice ,,pudding4 #aced4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 the yolks of #f eggs1 #a small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla4 ,mode4--,put the rice into a stewpan1 with the milk and sugar1 and let these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to break up into a smooth mass1 and should the milk dry away too much1 a little more may be added4 ,stir the rice occasionally1 to prevent its burning1 then beat it to a smooth mixture2 add the yolks of the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and the vanilla 7should this flavouring not be liked1 essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it72 put this rice custard into the freezing-pot1 and proceed as directed in recipe ,no4 #abij4 ,when wanted for table1 turn the pudding out of the mould1 and pour over the top1 and round it1 a compte of oranges1 or any other fruit that may be preferred1 taking care that the flavouring in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d42 exclusive of the compte1 #as4 #d;d4 ,seasonable4--,served all the year round4 ,,miniature ,,rice ,,puddings4 #acee4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of rice1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #b oz4 of fresh butter1 #d eggs1 sugar to taste2 flavouring of lemon-peel1 bitter almonds1 or vanilla2 a few strips of candied peel4 ,mode4--,let the rice swell in #a pint of the milk over a slow fire1 putting with it a strip of lemon-peel2 stir to it the butter and the other #a_/b pint of milk1 and let the mixture cool4 ,then add the well-beaten eggs1 and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of vanilla1 whichever may be preferred2 butter well some small cups or moulds1 line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin1 fill them three parts full1 and bake for about #dj minutes2 turn them out of the cups on to a white d'oyley1 and serve with sweet sauce4 ,the flavouring and candied peel might be omitted1 and stewed fruit or preserve served instead1 with these puddings4 ,time4--#dj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #f puddings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,arrowroot ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4 #acef4 ,,ingredients4--#b small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot1 #d dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar1 the juice of #a lemon1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water2 put this into a stewpan2 add the sugar1 strained lemon-juice1 and grated nutmeg4 ,stir these ingredients over the fire until they boil1 when the sauce is ready for use4 ,a small quantity of wine1 or any liqueur1 would very much improve the flavour of this sauce3 it is usually served with bread1 rice1 custard1 or any dry pudding that is not very rich4 ,time4--,altogether1 #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,,cherry ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 7,german ,recipe47 #aceg4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of cherries1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a wineglassful of port wine1 a little grated lemon-rind1 #d pounded cloves1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,stone the cherries1 and pound the kernels in a mortar to a smooth paste2 put the butter and flour into a saucepan2 stir them over the fire until of a pale brown2 then add the cherries1 the pounded kernels1 the wine1 and the water4 ,simmer these gently for #a_/d hour1 or until the cherries are quite cooked1 and rub the whole through a hair sieve2 add the remaining ingredients1 let the sauce boil for another #e minutes1 and serve4 ,this is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled batter pudding1 and when thus used1 should be sent to table poured over the pudding4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #a;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,lemon ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 #aceh4 ,,ingredients4--,the rind and juice of #a lemon1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a large wineglassful of sherry1 #a wineglassful of water1 sugar to taste1 the yolks of #d eggs4 ,mode4--,rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar2 squeeze out the juice1 and strain it2 put the butter and flour into a saucepan1 stir them over the fire1 and when of a pale brown1 add the wine1 water1 and strained lemon-juice4 ,crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on the lemon2 stir these into the sauce1 which should be very sweet4 ,when these ingredients are well mixed1 and the sugar is melted1 put in the beaten yolks of #d eggs2 keep stirring the sauce until it thickens1 when serve4 ,do not1 on any account1 allow it to boil1 or it will curdle1 and be entirely spoiled4 ,time4--,altogether1 #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,,soyer',s ,,sauce ,,for ,,plum-,,pudding4 #acei4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #c eggs1 #a tablespoonful of powdered sugar1 #a gill of milk1 a very little grated lemon-rind1 #b small wineglassfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,separate the yolks from the whites of #c eggs1 and put the former into a stewpan2 add the sugar1 milk1 and grated lemon-rind1 and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens2 but do not allow it to boil4 ,put in the brandy2 let the sauce stand by the side of the fire1 to get quite hot2 keep stirring it1 and serve in a boat or tureen separately1 or pour it over the pudding4 ,time4--,altogether1 #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,,sweet ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4 #acfj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter made with milk1 #d heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar1 flavouring2 of grated lemon-rind1 or nutmeg1 or cinnamon4 ,mode4--,make #a_/b pint of melted butter by recipe ,no4 #chj1 omitting the salt2 stir in the sugar1 add a little grated lemon-rind1 nutmeg1 or powdered cinnamon1 and serve4 ,previously to making the melted butter1 the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds1 by infusing about half a dozen of them in it for about #a_/b hour2 the milk should then be strained before it is added to the other ingredients4 ,this simple sauce may be served for children with rice1 batter1 or bread pudding4 ,time4--,altogether1 #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,,vanilla ,,custard ,,sauce1 to serve with ,puddings4 #acfa4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of milk1 #b eggs1 #b oz4 of sugar1 #aj drops of essence of vanilla4 ,mode4--,beat the eggs1 sweeten the milk2 stir these ingredients well together1 and flavour them with essence of vanilla1 regulating the proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence1 the size of the eggs1 c4 ,put the mixture into a small jug1 place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water1 and stir the sauce one way until it thickens2 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will instantly curdle4 ,serve in a boat or tureen separately1 with plum1 bread1 or any kind of dry pudding4 ,essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted for the vanilla1 when they are more in accordance with the flavouring of the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served4 ,time4--,to be stirred in the jug from #h to #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,wine ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4 #acfb4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #d eggs1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar1 #b oz4 of fresh butter1 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt1 #a_/b pint of sherry or ,madeira4 ,mode4--,put the butter and flour into a saucepan1 and stir them over the fire until the former thickens2 then add the sugar1 salt1 and wine1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,separate the yolks from the whites of #d eggs2 beat up the former1 and stir them briskly to the sauce2 let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of simmering2 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will instantly curdle4 ,this sauce is delicious with plum1 marrow1 or bread puddings2 but should be served separately1 and not poured over the pudding4 ,time4--,from #e to #g minutes to thicken the butter2 about #e minutes to stir the sauce over the fire4 ,average cost1 #as4 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,,wine ,,or ,,brandy ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4 #acfc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of melted butter ,no4 #cgg1 #c heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar2 #a large wineglassful of port or sherry1 or #c_/d of a small glassful of brandy4 ,mode4--,make #a_/b pint of melted butter by recipe ,no4 #cgg1 omitting the salt2 then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion1 and bring the sauce to the point of boiling4 ,serve in a boat or tureen separately1 and1 if liked1 pour a little of it over the pudding4 ,to convert this into punch sauce1 add to the sherry and brandy a small wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,liqueurs1 such as ,maraschino or ,curaoa substituted for the brandy1 make excellent sauces4 ,time4--,altogether1 #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,,wine ,,sauce ,,for ,,puddings4 #acfd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of sherry1 #a_/d pint of water1 the yolks of #f eggs1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel1 a few pieces of candied citron cut thin4 ,mode4--,separate the yolks from the whites of #e eggs2 beat them1 and put them into a very clean saucepan 7if at hand1 a lined one is best72 add all the other ingredients1 place them over a sharp fire1 and keep stirring until the sauce begins to thicken2 then take it off and serve4 ,if it is allowed to boil1 it will be spoiled1 as it will immediately curdle4 ,time4--,to be stirred over the fire #c or #d minutes2 but it must not boil4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for a large pudding2 allow half this quantity for a moderate-sized one4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,open ,,tart ,,of ,,strawberry ,,or ,,any ,,other ,,kind ,,of ,,preserve4 ,illustration3 ,,open ,,tart4 ,illustration3 ,,open-,,tart ,,mould4 #acfe4 ,,ingredients4--,trimmings of puff-paste1 any kind of jam4 ,mode4--,butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving1 roll out the paste to the thickness of #a_/b an inch1 and line the pan with it2 prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork1 and bake the tart in a brisk oven from #aj to #ae minutes4 ,let the paste cool a little2 then fill it with preserve1 place a few stars or leaves on it1 which have been previously cut out of the paste and baked1 and the tart is ready for table4 ,by making it in this manner1 both the flavour and colour of the jam are preserved1 which would otherwise be lost1 were it baked in the oven on the paste2 and1 besides1 so much jam is not required4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient4--#a tart for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,strawberry4--,the name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from an ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to ripen1 which is very useful to keep it moist and clean4 ,the strawberry belongs to temperate and rather cold climates2 and no fruit of these latitudes1 that ripens without the aid of artificial heat1 is at all comparable with it in point of flavour4 ,the strawberry is widely diffused1 being found in most parts of the world1 particularly in ,europe and ,america4 ,,quickly-,,made ,,puddings4 #acff4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of sifted sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a pint of milk1 #e eggs1 a little grated lemon-rind4 ,mode4--,make the milk hot2 stir in the butter1 and let it cool before the other ingredients are added to it2 then stir in the sugar1 flour1 and eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and omit the whites of #b2 flavour with a little grated lemon-rind1 and beat the mixture well4 ,butter some small cups1 rather more than half fill them2 bake from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 according to the size of the puddings1 and serve with fruit1 custard1 or wine sauce1 a little of which may be poured over them4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #f puddings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sago ,,pudding4 #acfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of milk1 #c tablespoonfuls of sago1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #d eggs1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 grated nutmeg1 puff-paste4 ,mode4--,put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan1 place it by the side of the fire1 and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured with the lemon2 then strain it1 mix with it the sago and sugar1 and simmer gently for about #ae minutes4 ,let the mixture cool a little1 and stir to it the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and the butter4 ,line the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste1 pour in the pudding1 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and bake from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour1 or longer if the oven is very slow4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the above pudding may be boiled instead of baked2 but then allow #b extra tablespoonfuls of sago1 and boil the pudding in a buttered basin from #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,,sago4--,sago is the pith of a species of palm 7,cycas circinalis74 ,its form is that of a small round grain4 ,there are two sorts of sago1--the white and the yellow2 but their properties are the same4 ,sago absorbs the liquid in which it is cooked1 becomes transparent and soft1 and retains its original shape4 ,its alimentary properties are the same as those of tapioca and arrowroot4 ,,sago ,,sauce ,,for ,,sweet ,,puddings4 #acfh4 ,,ingredients4--#a tablespoonful of sago1 #a_/c pint of water1 #a_/d pint of port or sherry1 the rind and juice of #a small lemon1 sugar to taste2 when the flavour is liked1 a little pounded cinnamon4 ,mode4--,wash the sago in two or three waters2 then put it into a saucepan1 with the water and lemon-peel2 let it simmer gently by the side of the fire for #aj minutes2 then take out the lemon-peel1 add the remaining ingredients1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,be particular to strain the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce4 ,this1 on trial1 will be found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings1 such as those made of bread1 raisins1 rice1 c4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,,baked ,,semolina ,,pudding4 #acfi4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of semolina1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #ab bitter almonds1 #c oz4 of butter1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,flavour the milk with the bitter almonds1 by infusing them in it by the side of the fire for about #a_/b hour2 then strain it1 and mix with it the semolina1 sugar1 and butter4 ,stir these ingredients over the fire for a few minutes2 then take them off1 and gradually mix in the eggs1 which should be well beaten4 ,butter a pie-dish1 line the edges with puff-paste1 put in the pudding1 and bake in rather a slow oven from #dj to #ej minutes4 ,serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit1 a little of which may be poured over the pudding4 ,time4--#dj to #ej minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,semolina4--,after vermicelli1 semolina is the most useful ingredient that can be used for thickening soups1 meat or vegetable1 of rich or simple quality4 ,semolina is softening1 light1 wholesome1 easy of digestion1 and adapted to the infant1 the aged1 and the invalid4 ,that of a clear yellow colour1 well dried and newly made1 is the fittest for use4 ,,tapioca ,,pudding4 #acgj4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of tapioca1 #a quart of milk1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #d eggs1 flavouring of vanilla1 grated lemon-rind1 or bitter almonds4 ,mode4--,wash the tapioca1 and let it stew gently in the milk by the side of the fire for #a_/d hour1 occasionally stirring it2 then let it cool a little2 mix with it the butter1 sugar1 and eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and flavour with either of the above ingredients1 putting in about #ab drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla1 whichever is preferred4 ,butter a pie-dish1 and line the edges with puff-paste2 put in the pudding1 and bake in a moderate oven for an hour4 ,if the pudding is boiled1 add a little more tapioca1 and boil it in a buttered basin #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a hour to bake1 #a-a_/b hour to boil4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,tapioca4--,tapioca is recommended to the convalescent1 as being easy of digestion4 ,it may be used in soup or broth1 or mixed with milk or water1 and butter4 ,it is excellent food for either the healthy or sick1 for the reason that it is so quickly digested without fatigue to the stomach4 ,,tartlets4 #acga4 ,,ingredients4--,trimmings of puff-paste1 any jam or marmalade that may be preferred4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,tartlets4 ,mode4--,roll out the paste to the thickness of about #a_/b inch2 butter some small round patty-pans1 line them with it1 and cut off the superfluous paste close to the edge of the pan4 ,put a small piece of bread into each tartlet 7this is to keep them in shape71 and bake in a brisk oven for about #aj minutes1 or rather longer4 ,when they are done1 and are of a nice colour1 take the pieces of bread out carefully1 and replace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade4 ,dish them high on a white d'oyley1 piled high in the centre1 and serve4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--#a lb4 of paste will make #b dishes of tartlets4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rolled ,,treacle ,,pudding4 #acgb4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of suet crust ,no4 #abae1 #a lb4 of treacle1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated ginger4 ,mode4--,make1 with #a lb4 of flour1 a suet crust by recipe ,no4 #abae2 roll it out to the thickness of #a_/b inch1 and spread the treacle equally over it1 leaving a small margin where the paste joins2 close the ends securely1 tie the pudding in a floured cloth1 plunge it into boiling water1 and boil for #b hours4 ,we have inserted this pudding1 being economical1 and a favourite one with children2 it is1 of course1 only suitable for a nursery1 or very plain family dinner4 ,made with a lard instead of a suet crust1 it would be very nice baked1 and would be sufficiently done in from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,time4--,boiled pudding1 #b hours2 baked pudding1 #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,meat ,,or ,,sausage ,,rolls4 #acgc4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abjf1 sausage-meat ,no4 #hcg1 the yolk of #a egg4 ,mode4--,make #a lb4 of puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abjf2 roll it out to the thickness of about #a_/b inch1 or rather less1 and divide it into #h1 #aj1 or #ab squares1 according to the size the rolls are intended to be4 ,place some sausage-meat on one-half of each square1 wet the edges of the paste1 and fold it over the meat2 slightly press the edges together1 and trim them neatly with a knife4 ,brush the rolls over with the yolk of an egg1 and bake them in a well-heated oven for about #a_/b hour1 or longer should they be very large4 ,the remains of cold chicken and ham1 minced and seasoned1 as also cold veal or beef1 make very good rolls4 ,time4--#a_/b hour1 or longer if the rolls are large4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient4--#a lb4 of paste for #aj or #ab rolls4 ,seasonable1 with sausage-meat1 from ,september to ,march or ,april4 ,,somersetshire ,,puddings4 #acgd4 ,,ingredients4--#c eggs1 their weight in flour1 pounded sugar and butter1 flavouring of grated lemon-rind1 bitter almonds1 or essence of vanilla4 ,mode4--,carefully weigh the various ingredients1 by placing on one side of the scales the eggs1 and on the other the flour2 then the sugar1 and then the butter4 ,warm the butter1 and with the hands beat it to a cream2 gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar1 and keep stirring and beating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth4 ,then add the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred2 butter some small cups1 rather more than half-fill them1 and bake in a brisk oven for about #a_/b hour4 ,turn them out1 dish them on a napkin1 and serve custard or wine-sauce with them4 ,a pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold1 by cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife1 and putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve1 such as apricot1 greengage1 or very bright marmalade4 ,the paste for these puddings requires a great deal of mixing1 as the more it is beaten1 the better will the puddings be4 ,when served cold1 they are usually called gteaux la ,madeleine4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g puddings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,suet ,,pudding1 to serve with ,roast ,meat4 #acge4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of finely-chopped suet1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #a_/b saltspoonful of pepper1 #a_/b pint of milk or water4 ,mode4--,chop the suet very finely1 after freeing it from skin1 and mix it well with the flour2 add the salt and pepper 7this latter ingredient may be omitted if the flavour is not liked71 and make the whole into a smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water4 ,tie the pudding in a floured cloth1 or put it into a buttered basin1 and boil from #b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,to enrich it1 substitute #c beaten eggs for some of the milk or water1 and increase the proportion of suet4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,when there is a joint roasting or baking1 this pudding may be boiled in a long shape1 and then cut into slices a few minutes before dinner is served3 these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a minute or two1 and then browned before the fire4 ,most children like this accompaniment to roast meat4 ,where there is a large family of children1 and the means of keeping them are limited1 it is a most economical plan to serve up the pudding before the meat3 as1 in this case1 the consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwise would be4 ,,sussex1 or ,,hard ,,dumplings4 #acgf4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste1 previously adding a small quantity of salt4 ,form this into small round dumplings2 drop them into boiling water1 and boil from #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,they may be served with roast or boiled meat2 in the latter case they may be cooked with the meat1 but should be dropped into the water when it is quite boiling4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,sufficient for #aj or #ab dumplings4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,vermicelli ,,pudding4 #acgg4 ,,ingredients4--#d oz4 of vermicelli1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #c oz4 of butter1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender2 then stir in the remaining ingredients1 omitting the cream1 if not obtainable4 ,flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind1 essence of bitter almonds1 or vanilla2 butter a pie-dish2 line the edges with puff-paste1 put in the pudding1 and bake in a moderate oven for about #c_/d hour4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 without cream4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,vermicelli4--,the finest vermicelli comes from ,marseilles1 ,nimes1 and ,montpellier4 ,it is a nourishing food1 and owes its name to its peculiar thread-like form4 ,vermicelli means1 little worms4 ,,vicarage ,,pudding4 #acgh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of chopped suet1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #a_/d lb4 of raisins1 #a tablespoonful of moist sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of ground ginger1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a basin1 having previously stoned the raisins1 and washed1 picked1 and dried the currants2 mix well with a clean knife2 dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water1 wring it out1 and put in the mixture4 ,have ready a saucepan of boiling water1 plunge in the pudding1 and boil for #c hours4 ,turn it out on the dish1 and serve with sifted sugar4 ,time4--#c hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a winter pudding4 ,,vol-,,au-,,vent 7an ,entree74 #acgi4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d to #a lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abjh1 fricasseed chickens1 rabbits1 ragouts1 or the remains of cold fish1 flaked and warmed in thick white sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,vol-,,au-,,vent4 ,mode4--,make from #c_/d to #a lb4 of puff-paste1 by recipe ,no4 #abjh1 taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time1 to insure its rising properly2 and if the paste is not extremely light1 and put into a good hot oven1 this cannot be accomplished1 and the vol-au-vent will look very badly4 ,roll out the paste to the thickness of about #a-a_/b inch1 and1 with a fluted cutter1 stamp it out to the desired shape1 either round or oval1 and1 with the point of a small knife1 make a slight incision in the paste all round the top1 about an inch from the edge1 which1 when baked1 forms the lid4 ,put the vol-au-vent into a good brisk oven1 and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it is put in4 ,particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven1 for the paste cannot rise without a tolerable degree of heat ,when of a nice colour1 without being scorched1 withdraw it from the oven1 instantly remove the cover where it was marked1 and detach all the soft crumb from the centre3 in doing this1 be careful not to break the edges of the vol-au-vent2 but should they look thin in places1 stop them with small flakes of the inside paste1 stuck on with the white of an egg4 ,this precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragot from bursting the case1 and so spoiling the appearance of the dish4 ,fill the vol-au-vent with a rich mince1 or fricassee1 or ragot1 or the remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce1 and do not make them very liquid1 for fear of the gravy bursting the crust3 replace the lid1 and serve4 ,to improve the appearance of the crust1 brush it over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly4--,see coloured plate ,o#a4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to bake the vol-au-vent4 ,average cost1 exclusive of interior1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,vol-,,au-,,vents4 ,note4--,small vol-au-vents may be made like those shown in the engraving1 and filled with minced veal1 chicken1 c4 ,they should be made of the same paste as the larger ones1 and stamped out with a small fluted cutter4 ,,sweet ,,vol-,,au-,,vent ,,of ,,plums1 ,,apples1 ,,or ,,any ,,other ,,fresh ,,fruit4 #achj4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abjh1 about #a pint of fruit compte4 ,mode4--,make #a_/b lb4 of puff-paste by recipe ,no4 #abjh1 taking care to bake it in a good brisk oven1 to draw it up nicely and make it look light4 ,have ready sufficient stewed fruit1 the syrup of which must be boiled down until very thick2 fill the vol-au-vent with this1 and pile it high in the centre2 powder a little sugar over it1 and put it back in the oven to glaze1 or use a salamander for the purpose3 the vol-au-vent is then ready to serve4 ,they may be made with any fruit that is in season1 such as rhubarb1 oranges1 gooseberries1 currants1 cherries1 apples1 c42 but care must be taken not to have the syrup too thin1 for fear of its breaking through the crust4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to #dj minutes to bake the vol-au-vent4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the compte1 #as4 #a;d4 ,sufficient for #a entremets4 ,,vol-,,au-,,vent ,,of ,,fresh ,,strawberries ,,with ,,whipped ,,cream4 #acha4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abjh1 #a pint of freshly-gathered strawberries1 sugar to taste1 a plateful of whipped cream4 ,mode4--,make a vol-au-vent case by recipe ,no4 #acgi1 only not quite so large nor so high as for a savoury one4 ,when nearly done1 brush the paste over with the white of an egg1 then sprinkle on it some pounded sugar1 and put it back in the oven to set the glaze4 ,remove the interior1 or soft crumb1 and1 at the moment of serving1 fill it with the strawberries1 which should be picked1 and broken up with sufficient sugar to sweeten them nicely4 ,place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the top1 and serve4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to #dj minutes to bake the vol-au-vent4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #a vol-au-vent4 ,seasonable in ,june and ,july4 ,,strawberry4--,among the ,greeks1 the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity1 this fruit forming hardly a mouthful4 ,with the ,latins1 the name reminded one of the delicious perfume of this plant4 ,both nations were equally fond of it1 and applied the same care to its cultivation4 ,virgil appears to place it in the same rank with flowers2 and ,ovid gives it a tender epithet1 which delicate palates would not disavow4 ,neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry1 which disappears beneath its modest foliage1 but whose presence the scented air reveals4 ,,west-,,indian ,,pudding4 #achb4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of cream1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf-sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of ,savoy or sponge-cakes1 #h eggs1 #c oz4 of preserved green ginger4 ,mode4--,crumble down the cakes1 put them into a basin1 and pour over them the cream1 which should be previously sweetened and brought to the boiling-point2 cover the basin1 well beat the eggs1 and when the cream is soaked up1 stir them in4 ,butter a mould1 arrange the ginger round it1 pour in the pudding carefully1 and tie it down with a cloth2 steam or boil it slowly for #a-a_/b hour1 and serve with the syrup from the ginger1 which should be warmed1 and poured over the pudding4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #bs4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,yeast ,,dumplings4 #achc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b quartern of dough1 boiling water4 ,mode4--,make a very light dough as for bread1 using to mix it1 milk1 instead of water2 divide it into #g or #h dumplings2 plunge them into boiling water1 and boil them for #bj minutes4 ,serve the instant they are taken up1 as they spoil directly1 by falling and becoming heavy2 and in eating them do not touch them with a knife1 but tear them apart with two forks4 ,they may be eaten with meat gravy1 or cold butter and sugar1 and if not convenient to make the dough at home1 a little from the baker's answers as well1 only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire1 in a basin with a cloth over it1 to let it rise again before it is made into dumplings4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,yeast consists principally of a substance very similar in composition1 and in many of its sensible properties1 to gluten2 and1 when new or fresh1 it is inflated and rendered frothy by a large quantity of carbonic acid4 ,when mixed with wort1 this substance acts upon the saccharine matter2 the temperature rises1 carbonic acid is disengaged1 and the result is ale1 which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol1 or spirit4 ,the quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being small1 the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed3 hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor1 and gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is remarkable4 ,the fermenting property of yeast is weakened by boiling for ten minutes1 and is entirely destroyed by continuing the boiling4 ,alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert2 on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed during fermentation4 ,,yorkshire ,,pudding1 to serve with hot ,roast ,beef4 #achd4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of milk1 #f large tablespoonfuls of flour1 #c eggs1 #a saltspoonful of salt4 ,illustration3 ,,yorkshire ,,pudding4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin with the salt1 and stir gradually to this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter4 ,when this is perfectly smooth1 and all the lumps are well rubbed down1 add the remainder of the milk and the eggs1 which should be well beaten4 ,beat the mixture for a few minutes1 and pour it into a shallow tin1 which has been previously well rubbed with beef dripping4 ,put the pudding into the oven1 and bake it for an hour2 then1 for another #a_/b hour1 place it under the meat1 to catch a little of the gravy that flows from it4 ,cut the pudding into small square pieces1 put them on a hot dish1 and serve4 ,if the meat is baked1 the pudding may at once be placed under it1 resting the former on a small three-cornered stand4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,creams1 ,,jellies1 ,,souffl,s1 ,,omelets1 ,,sweet ,,dishes4 #ache4 ,,creams4--,the yellowish-white1 opaque fluid1 smooth and unctuous to the touch1 which separates itself from new milk1 and forms a layer on its surface1 when removed by skimming1 is employed in a variety of culinary preparations4 ,the analyses of the contents of cream have been decided to be1 in #ajj parts--butter1 #c4e2 curd1 or matter of cheese1 #c4e2 whey1 #ib4j4 ,that cream contains an oil1 is evinced by its staining clothes in the manner of oil2 and when boiled for some time1 a little oil floats upon the surface4 ,the thick animal oil which it contains1 the well-known butter1 is separated only by agitation1 as in the common process of churning1 and the cheesy matter remains blended with the whey in the state of buttermilk4 ,of the several kinds of cream1 the principal are the ,devonshire and ,dutch clotted creams1 the ,costorphin cream1 and the ,scotch sour cream4 ,the ,devonshire cream is produced by nearly boiling the milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal fire1 and kept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up4 ,it is used for eating with fruits and tarts4 ,the cream from ,costorphin1 a village of that name near ,edinburgh1 is accelerated in its separation from three or four days' old milk1 by a certain degree of heat2 and the ,dutch clotted cream--a coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright--is manufactured from fresh-drawn milk1 which is put into a pan1 and stirred with a spoon two or three times a day1 to prevent the cream from separating from the milk4 ,the ,scotch sour cream is a misnomer2 for it is a material produced without cream4 ,a small tub filled with skimmed milk is put into a larger one1 containing hot water1 and after remaining there all night1 the thin milk 7called wigg7 is drawn off1 and the remainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is sour cream4 #achf4 ,,jellies are not the nourishing food they were at one time considered to be1 and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they are less digestible than the flesh1 or muscular part of animals2 still1 when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine1 they are very suitable for some convalescents4 ,vegetable jelly is a distinct principle1 existing in fruits1 which possesses the property of gelatinizing when boiled and cooled2 but it is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies1 although the name of jelly1 common to both1 sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on that subject4 ,animal jelly1 or gelatine1 is glue1 whereas vegetable jelly is rather analogous to gum4 ,liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the scale of usefulness4 ,he says1 ,gelatine1 which by itself is tasteless1 and when eaten1 excites nausea1 possesses no nutritive value2 that1 even when accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh1 it is not capable of supporting the vital process1 and when added to the usual diet as a substitute for plastic matter1 does not increase1 but1 on the contrary1 diminishes the nutritive value of the food1 which it renders insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality4 ,it is this substance which is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jellies supplied by the confectioner2 but those prepared at home from calves' feet do possess some nutrition1 and are the only sort that should be given to invalids4 ,isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine1 and is prepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish1 chiefly the sturgeon4 ,from its whiteness it is mostly used for making blanc-mange and similar dishes4 #achg4 ,,the ,,white ,,of ,,eggs is perhaps the best substance that can be employed in clarifying jelly1 as well as some other fluids1 for the reason that when albumen 7and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen7 is put into a liquid that is muddy1 from substances suspended in it1 on boiling the liquid1 the albumen coagulates in a flocculent manner1 and1 entangling with it the impurities1 rises with them to the surface as a scum1 or sinks to the bottom1 according to their weight4 #achh4 ,,souffles1 ,,omelets1 ,,and ,,sweet ,,dishes1 in which eggs form the principal ingredient1 demand1 for their successful manufacture1 an experienced cook4 ,they are the prettiest1 but most difficult of all entremets4 ,the most essential thing to insure success is to secure the best ingredients from an honest tradesman4 ,the entremets coming within the above classification1 are healthy1 nourishing1 and pleasant to the taste1 and may be eaten with safety by persons of the most delicate stomachs4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,custard4 #achi4 ,,ingredients4--#a dozen large apples1 moist sugar to taste1 #a small teacupful of cold water1 the grated rind of one lemon1 #a pint of milk1 #d eggs1 #b oz4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,peel1 cut1 and core the apples2 put them into a lined saucepan with the cold water1 and as they heat1 bruise them to a pulp2 sweeten with moist sugar1 and add the grated lemon-rind4 ,when cold1 put the fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish1 and pour over it a custard1 made with the above proportion of milk1 eggs1 and sugar2 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 place the dish in a moderate oven1 and bake from #be to #ce minutes4 ,the above proportions will make rather a large dish4 ,time4--#be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,buttered ,,apples 7,sweet ,entremets74 #acij4 ,,ingredients4--,apple marmalade ,no4 #acie1 #f or #g good boiling apples1 #a_/b pint of water1 #f oz4 of sugar1 #b oz4 of butter1 a little apricot jam4 ,mode4--,pare the apples1 and take out the cores without dividing them2 boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes2 then lay in the apples1 and simmer them very gently until tender1 taking care not to let them break4 ,have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe ,no4 #acie1 and flavoured with lemon1 to cover the bottom of the dish2 arrange the apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each1 and in between them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade2 place the dish in the oven for #aj minutes1 then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar2 either brown it before the fire or with a salamander1 and serve hot4 ,time4--,from #bj to #cj minutes to stew the apples very gently1 #aj minutes in the oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a entremets4 ,note4--,the syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for another occasion4 ,,flanc ,,of ,,apples1 or ,,apples ,,in ,a ,,raised ,,crust4 7,sweet ,entremets47 #acia4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of short crust ,no4 #abaa or #abab1 #i moderate-sized apples1 the rind and juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/b lb4 of white sugar1 #c_/d pint of water1 a few strips of candied citron4 ,mode4--,make a short crust by either of the above recipes2 roll it out to the thickness of #a_/b inch1 and butter an oval mould2 line it with the crust1 and press it carefully all round the sides1 to obtain the form of the mould1 but be particular not to break the paste4 ,pinch the part that just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers1 and fill the case with flour2 bake it for about #c_/d hour2 then take it out of the oven1 remove the flour1 put the case back in the oven for another #a_/d hour1 and do not allow it to get scorched4 ,it is now ready for the apples1 which should be prepared in the following manner3 peel1 and take out the cores with a small knife1 or a cutter for the purpose1 without dividing the apples2 put them into a small lined saucepan1 just capable of holding them1 with sugar1 water1 lemon juice and rind1 in the above proportion4 ,let them simmer very gently until tender2 then take out the apples1 let them cool1 arrange them in the flanc or case1 and boil down the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly2 pour it over the apples1 and garnish them with a few slices of candied citron4 #acib4 ,a ,,more ,,simple ,,flanc may be made by rolling out the paste1 cutting the bottom of a round or oval shape1 and then a narrow strip for the sides3 these should be stuck on with the white of an egg1 to the bottom piece1 and the flanc then filled with raw fruit1 with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely4 ,it will not require so long baking as in a mould2 but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness1 and so perfectly joined1 that the juice does not escape4 ,this dish may also be served hot1 and should be garnished in the same manner1 or a little melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples1 which very much improves their flavour4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour to bake the flanc from #cj to #dj minutes to stew the apples very gently4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a entremets or side-dish4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apple ,,fritters4 #acic4 ,,ingredients4--,for the batter1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #b eggs1 milk1 apples1 hot lard or clarified beef-dripping4 ,mode4--,break the eggs2 separate the whites from the yolks1 and beat them separately4 ,put the flour into a basin1 stir in the butter1 which should be melted to a cream2 add the salt1 and moisten with sufficient warm milk to make it of a proper consistency1 that is to say1 a batter that will drop from the spoon4 ,stir this well1 rub down any lumps that may be seen1 and add the whites of the eggs1 which have been previously well whisked2 beat up the batter for a few minutes1 and it is ready for use4 ,now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices1 without dividing them1 and stamp out the middle of each slice1 where the core is1 with a cutter4 ,throw the slices into the batter2 have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping2 take out the pieces of apple one by one1 put them into the hot lard1 and fry a nice brown1 turning them--when required4 ,when done1 lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire1 to absorb the greasy moisture2 then dish on a white d'oyley1 piled one above the other2 strew over them some pounded sugar1 and serve very hot4 ,the flavour of the fritters would be very much improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine1 mixed with sugar and lemon-juice1 for #c or #d hours before wanted for table2 the batter1 also1 is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters are made4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to fry them2 #e minutes to drain them4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,iced ,,apples1 or ,,apple ,,hedgehog4 #acid4 ,,ingredients4--,about #c dozen good boiling apples1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #a_/b pint of water1 the rind of #a_/b lemon minced very fine1 the whites of #b eggs1 #c tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar1 a few sweet almonds4 ,mode4--,peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them1 and stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with #a_/b lb4 of sugar and #a_/b pint of water1 and when tender1 lift them carefully on to a dish4 ,have ready the remainder of the apples pared1 cored1 and cut into thin slices2 put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel1 and boil gently until they are reduced to a marmalade3 they must be kept stirred1 to prevent them from burning4 ,cover the bottom of a dish with some of the marmalade1 and over that a layer of the stewed apples1 in the insides of which1 and between each1 place some of the marmalade2 then place another layer of apples1 and fill up the cavities with marmalade as before1 forming the whole into a raised oval shape4 ,whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth1 mix with them the pounded sugar1 and cover the apples very smoothly all over with the icing2 blanch and cut each almond into #d or #e strips2 place these strips at equal distances over the icing sticking up2 strew over a little rough pounded sugar1 and place the dish in a very slow oven1 to colour the almonds1 and for the apples to get warm through4 ,this entremets may also be served cold1 and makes a pretty supper-dish4 ,time4--,from #bj to #cj minutes to stew the apples4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 to #bs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,thick ,,apple ,,jelly ,,or ,,marmalade1 for ,entremets or ,dessert ,dishes4 #acie4 ,,ingredients4--,apples2 to every lb4 of pulp allow #c_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel4 ,illustration3 ,,apple ,,jelly ,,stuck ,,with ,,almonds4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and boil the apples with only sufficient water to prevent them from burning2 beat them to a pulp1 and to every lb4 of pulp allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps4 ,dip the lumps into water2 put these into a saucepan1 and boil till the syrup is thick and can be well skimmed2 then add this syrup to the apple pulp1 with the minced lemon-peel1 and stir it over a quick fire for about #bj minutes1 or until the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan4 ,the jelly is then done1 and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in water1 when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish2 for the latter a little custard should be poured round1 and it should be garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #c_/d hour to reduce the apples to a pulp2 #bj minutes to boil after the sugar is added4 ,sufficient4--#a-a_/b lb4 of apples sufficient for a small mould4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march2 but is best in ,september1 ,october or ,november4 ,,clear ,,apple ,,jelly4 #acif4 ,,ingredients4--#b dozen apples1 #a-a_/b pint of spring-water2 to every pint of juice allow #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 the rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and cut the apples into quarters1 and boil them1 with the lemon-peel1 until tender2 then strain off the apples1 and run the juice through a jelly-bag2 put the strained juice1 with the sugar and isinglass1 which has been previously boiled in #a_/b pint of water1 into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan2 boil all together for about #a_/d hour1 and put the jelly into moulds4 ,when this jelly is nice and clear1 and turned out well1 it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table1 with a little custard or whipped cream round it3 the addition of a little lemon-juice improves the flavour1 but it is apt to render the jelly muddy and thick4 ,if required to be kept any length of time1 rather a larger proportion of sugar must be used4 ,time4--,from #a to #a-a_/b hour to boil the apples2 #a_/d hour the jelly4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a #a-a_/b-pint mould4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,a ,,pretty ,,dish ,,of ,,apples ,,and ,,rice4 #acig4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 sugar to taste1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #h apples1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a_/d pint of water1 #a_/b pint of boiled custard ,no4 #adbc4 ,mode4--,flavour the milk with lemon-rind1 by boiling them together for a few minutes2 then take out the peel1 and put in the rice1 with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely1 and boil gently until the rice is quite soft2 then let it cool4 ,in the mean time pare1 quarter1 and core the apples1 and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and water in the above proportion2 and1 when soft1 lift them out on a sieve to drain4 ,now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish2 lay the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached2 smooth the rice with the back of a spoon1 and stick the apples into it in rows1 one row sloping to the right and the next to the left4 ,set it in the oven to colour the apples2 then1 when required for table1 remove the gallipot1 garnish the rice with preserved fruits1 and pour in the middle sufficient custard1 made by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 to be level with the top of the rice1 and serve hot4 ,time4--,from #bj to #cj minutes to stew the apples2 #c_/d hour to simmer the rice2 #a_/d hour to bake4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apples ,a ,,la ,,portugaise4 #acih4 ,,ingredients4--#h good boiling apples1 #a_/b pint of water1 #f oz4 of sugar1 a layer of apple marmalade ,no4 #acie1 #h preserved cherries1 garnishing of apricot jam4 ,mode4--,peel the apples1 and1 with a vegetable-cutter1 push out the cores2 boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water1 without being too much done1 and take care they do not break4 ,have ready a white apple marmalade1 made by recipe ,no4 #acie2 cover the bottom of the dish with this1 level it1 and lay the apples in a sieve to drain1 pile them neatly on the marmalade1 making them high in the centre1 and place a preserved cherry in the middle of each4 ,garnish with strips of candied citron or apricot jam1 and the dish is ready for table4 ,time4--,from #bj to ,,so minutes to stew the apples4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #a entremets4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apples ,,in ,,red ,,jelly4 7,a pretty ,supper ,dish47 #acii4 ,,ingredients4--#f good-sized apples1 #ab cloves1 pounded sugar1 #a lemon1 #b teacupfuls of water1 #a tablespoonful of gelatine1 a few drops of prepared cochineal4 ,mode4--,choose rather large apples2 peel them and take out the cores1 either with a scoop or a small silver knife1 and put into each apple #b cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold4 ,place them1 without touching each other1 in a large pie-dish2 add more white sugar1 the juice of #a lemon1 and #b teacupfuls of water4 ,bake in the oven1 with a dish over them1 until they are done4 ,look at them frequently1 and1 as each apple is cooked1 place it in a glass dish4 ,they must not be left in the oven after they are done1 or they will break1 and so would spoil the appearance of the dish4 ,when the apples are neatly arranged in the dish without touching each other1 strain the liquor in which they have been stewing1 into a lined saucepan2 add to it the rind of the lemon1 and a tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold water1 and1 if not sweet1 a little more sugar1 and #f cloves4 ,boil till quite clear2 colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal1 and strain the jelly through a double muslin into a jug2 let it cool a little2 then pour it into the dish round the apples4 ,when quite cold1 garnish the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade1 a jelly1 or the white of an egg1 beaten to a strong froth1 with a little sifted sugar4 ,time4--,from #cj to #ej minutes to bake the apples4 ,average cost1 #as41 with the garnishing4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apples ,,and ,,rice4 7,a ,plain ,dish47 #adjj4 ,,ingredients4--#h good sized apples1 #c oz4 of butter1 the rind of #a_/b lemon minced very fine1 #f oz4 of rice1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 sugar to taste1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #f tablespoonfuls of apricot jam4 ,mode4--,peel the apples1 halve them1 and take out the cores2 put them into a stewpan with the butter1 and strew sufficient sifted sugar over to sweeten them nicely1 and add the minced lemon-peel4 ,stew the apples very gently until tender1 taking care they do not break4 ,boil the rice1 with the milk1 sugar1 and nutmeg1 until soft1 and1 when thoroughly done1 dish it1 piled high in the centre2 arrange the apples on it1 warm the apricot jam1 pour it over the whole1 and serve hot4 ,time4--,about #cj minutes to stew the apples very gently2 about #c_/d hour to cook the rice4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apple ,,snow4 7,a pretty ,supper ,dish47 #adja4 ,,ingredients4--#aj good-sized apples1 the whites of #aj eggs1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and cut the apples into quarters1 and put them into a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from burning1--rather less than #a_/b pint4 ,when they are tender1 take out the peel1 beat them to a pulp1 let them cool1 and stir them to the whites of the eggs1 which should be previously beaten to a strong froth4 ,add the sifted sugar1 and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite stiff2 and either heap it on a glass dish1 or serve it in small glasses4 ,the dish may be garnished with preserved barberries1 or strips of bright-coloured jelly2 and a dish of custards should be served with it1 or a jug of cream4 ,time4--,from #cj to #dj minutes to stew the apples4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a moderate-sized glass dish4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apple ,,souffle4 #adjb4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 sugar to taste1 the yolks of #d eggs1 the whites of #f1 #a-a_/b oz4 of butter1 #d tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade ,no4 #acie4 ,mode4--,boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well flavoured2 then strain it1 put in the rice1 and let it gradually swell over a slow fire1 adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely4 ,then crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon2 line the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it1 and put it into the oven to set2 turn it out of the tin carefully1 and be careful that the border of rice is firm in every part4 ,mix with the marmalade the beaten yolks of eggs and the butter1 and stir these over the fire until the mixture thickens4 ,take it off the fire2 to this add the whites of the eggs1 which should be previously beaten to a strong froth2 stir all together1 and put it into the rice border4 ,bake in a moderate oven for about #a_/b hour1 or until the souffl rises very light4 ,it should be watched1 and served instantly1 or it will immediately fall after it is taken from the oven4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,stewed ,,apples ,,and ,,custard4 7,a pretty ,dish for a ,juvenile ,supper47 #adjc4 ,,ingredients4--#g good-sized apples1 the rind of #a_/b lemon or #d cloves1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #c_/d pint of water1 #a_/b pint of custard ,no4 #adbc4 ,mode4--,pare and take out the cores of the apples1 without dividing them1 and1 if possible1 leave the stalks on2 boil the sugar and water together for #aj minutes2 then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or cloves1 whichever flavour may be preferred1 and simmer gently until they are tender1 taking care not to let them break4 ,dish them neatly on a glass dish1 reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes1 let it cool a little2 then pour it over the apples4 ,have ready quite #a_/b pint of custard made by recipe ,no4 #adbc2 pour it round1 but not over1 the apples when they are quite cold1 and the dish is ready for table4 ,a few almonds blanched and cut into strips1 and stuck in the apples1 would improve their appearance4--,see coloured plate ,q#a4 ,time4--,from #bj to #cj minutes to stew the apples4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to fill a large glass dish4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apple ,,trifle4 7,a ,supper ,dish47 #adjd4 ,,ingredients4--#aj good-sized apples1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #f oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b eggs1 whipped cream4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and cut the apples into thin slices1 and put them into a saucepan with #b tablespoonfuls of water1 the sugar1 and minced lemon-rind4 ,boil all together until quite tender1 and pulp the apples through a sieve2 if they should not be quite sweet enough1 add a little more sugar1 and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick layer4 ,stir together the milk1 cream1 and eggs1 with a little sugar1 over the fire1 and let the mixture thicken1 but do not allow it to reach the boiling-point4 ,when thick1 take it off the fire2 let it cool a little1 then pour it over the apples4 ,whip some cream with sugar1 lemon-peel1 c41 the same as for other trifles2 heap it high over the custard1 and the dish is ready for table4 ,it may be garnished as fancy dictates1 with strips of bright apple jelly1 slices of citron1 c4 ,time4--,from #cj to #dj minutes to stew the apples2 #aj minutes to stir the custard over the fire4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized trifle4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apricot ,,cream4 #adje4 ,,ingredients4--#ab to #af ripe apricots1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 the yolks of #h eggs1 #a oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,divide the apricots1 take out the stones1 and boil them in a syrup made with #a_/d lb4 of sugar and #a_/d pint of water1 until they form a thin marmalade1 which rub through a sieve4 ,boil the milk with the other #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 let it cool a little1 then mix with it the yolks of eggs which have been previously well beaten2 put this mixture into a jug1 place this jug in boiling water1 and stir it one way over the fire until it thickens2 but on no account let it boil4 ,strain through a sieve1 add the isinglass1 previously boiled with a small quantity of water1 and keep stirring it till nearly cold2 then mix the cream with the apricots2 stir well1 put it into an oiled mould1 and1 if convenient1 set it on ice2 at any rate1 in a very cool place4 ,it should turn out on the dish without any difficulty4 ,time4--,from #bj to #cj minutes to boil the apricots4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october4 ,note4--,in winter-time1 when fresh apricots are not obtainable1 a little jam may be substituted for them4 ,,flanc ,,of ,,apricots1 or ,compote of ,apricots in a ,raised ,crust4 7,sweet ,entremets47 #adjf4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d lb4 of short crust ,no4 #abab1 from #i to #ab good-sized apricots1 #c_/d pint of water1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,make a short crust by recipe ,no4 #abab1 and line a mould with it as directed in recipe ,no4 #acia4 ,boil the sugar and water together for #aj minutes2 halve the apricots1 take out the stones1 and simmer them in the syrup until tender2 watch them carefully1 and take them up the moment they are done1 for fear they break4 ,arrange them neatly in the flanc or case2 boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly1 pour it over the fruit1 and serve either hot or cold4 ,greengages1 plums of all kinds1 peaches1 c41 may be done in the same manner1 as also currants1 raspberries1 gooseberries1 strawberries1 c42 but with the last-named fruits1 a little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour to bake the flanc1 about #aj minutes to simmer the apricots4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a entremets or side-dish4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,,arrowroot ,,blanc-,,mange4 7,an inexpensive ,supper ,dish47 #adjg4 ,,ingredients4--#d heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #c laurel-leaves or the rind of #a_/b lemon1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with #a_/b pint of the milk2 put the other pint on the fire1 with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel1 whichever may be preferred1 and let the milk steep until it is well flavoured4 ,then strain the milk1 and add it1 boiling1 to the mixed arrowroot2 sweeten it with sifted sugar1 and let it boil1 stirring it all the time1 till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan4 ,grease a mould with pure salad-oil1 pour in the blanc-mange1 and when quite set1 turn it out on a dish1 and pour round it a compte of any kind of fruit1 or garnish it with jam4 ,a tablespoonful of brandy1 stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded1 very much improves the flavour of this sweet dish4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 without the garnishing4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,blanc-,,mange4 7,a ,supper ,dish47 #adjh4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of new milk1 #a-a_/d oz4 of isinglass1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 #aj bitter almonds1 #a_/b oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a pint of cream4 ,illustration3 ,,blanc-,,mange ,,mould4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a saucepan1 with the isinglass1 lemon-rind1 and sugar1 and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until the milk is well flavoured2 add the almonds1 which should be blanched and pounded in a mortar to a paste1 and let the milk just boil up2 strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug1 add the cream1 and stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold4 ,let it stand for a few minutes1 then pour it into the mould1 which should be previously oiled with the purest salad-oil1 or dipped in cold water4 ,there will be a sediment at the bottom of the jug1 which must not be poured into the mould1 as1 when turned out1 it would very much disfigure the appearance of the blanc-mange4 ,this blanc-mange may be made very much richer by using #a-a_/b pint of cream1 and melting the isinglass in #a_/b pint of boiling water4 ,the flavour may also be very much varied by adding bay-leaves1 laurel-leaves1 or essence of vanilla1 instead of the lemon-rind and almonds4 ,noyeau1 ,maraschino1 ,curaoa1 or any favourite liqueur1 added in small proportions1 very much enhances the flavour of this always favourite dish4 ,in turning it out1 just loosen the edges of the blanc-mange from the mould1 place a dish on it1 and turn it quickly over2 it should come out easily1 and the blanc-mange have a smooth glossy appearance when the mould is oiled1 which it frequently has not when it is only dipped in water4 ,it may be garnished as fancy dictates4 ,time4--,about #a-a_/b hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the milk4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #cs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,cheap ,,blanc-,,mange4 #adji4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a quart of milk1 #a-a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #d laurel-leaves4 ,illustration3 ,,blanc-,,mange4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan1 and boil gently until the isinglass is dissolved2 taste it occasionally1 to ascertain when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves2 then take them out1 and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about #aj minutes4 ,strain it through a fine sieve into a jug1 and1 when nearly cold1 pour it into a well-oiled mould1 omitting the sediment at the bottom4 ,turn it out carefully on a dish1 and garnish with preserves1 bright jelly1 or a compote of fruit4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,bread-,,and-,,butter ,,fritters4 #adaj4 ,,ingredients4--,batter1 #h slices of bread and butter1 #c or #d tablespoonfuls of jam4 ,mode4--,make a batter1 the same as for apple fritters ,no4 #acic2 cut some slices of bread and butter1 not very thick2 spread half of them with any jam that may he preferred1 and cover with the other slices2 slightly press them together1 and cut them out in square1 long1 or round pieces4 ,dip them in the batter1 and fry in boiling lard for about #aj minutes2 drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or cloth4 ,dish them1 sprinkle over sifted sugar1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,stock ,,for ,,jelly1 ,,and ,,to ,,clarify ,,it4 #adaa4 ,,ingredients4--#b calf's feet1 #f pints of water4 ,illustration3 ,,jelly-,,mould4 ,illustration3 ,,jelly-,,bag4 ,mode4--,the stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is required for use1 as the liquor has time to cool1 and the fat can be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set4 ,procure from the butcher's #b nice calf's feet3 scald them1 to take off the hair2 slit them in two1 remove the fat from between the claws1 and wash the feet well in warm water2 put them into a stewpan1 with the above proportion of cold water1 bring it gradually to boil1 and remove every particle of scum as it rises4 ,when it is well skimmed1 boil it very gently for #f or #g hours1 or until the liquor is reduced rather more than half2 then strain it through a sieve into a basin1 and put it in a cool place to set4 ,as the liquor is strained1 measure it1 to ascertain the proportion for the jelly1 allowing something for the sediment and fat at the top4 ,to clarify it1 carefully remove all the fat from the top1 pour over a little warm water1 to wash away any that may remain1 and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth2 remove the jelly from the sediment1 put it into a saucepan1 and1 supposing the quantity to be a quart1 add to it #f oz4 of loaf sugar1 the shells and well-whisked whites of #e eggs1 and stir these ingredients together cold2 set the saucepan on the fire1 but do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm4 ,let it boil about #aj minutes after it rises to a head1 then throw in a teacupful of cold water2 let it boil #e minutes longer1 then take the saucepan off1 cover it closely1 and let it remain #a_/b hour near the fire4 ,dip the jelly-bag into hot water1 wring it out quite dry1 and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair1 which must be placed near the fire1 to prevent the jelly from setting before it has run through the bag4 ,place a basin underneath to receive the jelly2 then pour it into the bag1 and should it not be clear the first time1 run it through the bag again4 ,this stock is the foundation of all really good jellies1 which may be varied in innumerable ways1 by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs1 and by moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits4 ,to insure the jelly being firm when turned out1 #a_/b oz4 of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of stock4 ,substitutes for calf's feet are now frequently used in making jellies1 which lessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite dish2 isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials employed2 but1 although they may look as nicely as jellies made from good stock1 they are never so delicate1 having very often an unpleasant flavour1 somewhat resembling glue1 particularly when made with gelatine4 ,time4--,about #f hours to boil the feet for the stock2 to clarify it1--#a_/d hour to boil1 #a_/b hour to stand in the saucepan covered4 ,average cost4--,calf's feet may be purchased for #f;d4 each when veal is in full season1 but more expensive when it is scarce4 ,sufficient4--#b calf's feet should make #a quart of stock4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october1 but may be had all the year4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,jelly-,,bag4--,the very stout flannel called double-mill1 used for ironing-blankets1 is the best material for a jelly-bag3 those of home manufacture are the only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly4 ,care should be taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice1 to secure it against unequal filtration4 ,the most convenient mode of using the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth2 and1 to do this1 strings should be sewn round it at equal distances4 ,the jelly-bag may1 of coarse1 be made any size2 but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep1 and seven or eight across the mouth1 will be sufficient for ordinary use4 ,the form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap4 ,,cow-,,heel ,,stock ,,for ,,jellies4 7,more ,economical than ,calf's ,feet47 #adab4 ,,ingredients4--#b cow-heels1 #c quarts of water4 ,mode4--,procure #b heels that have only been scalded1 and not boiled2 split them in two1 and remove the fat between the claws2 wash them well in warm water1 and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water2 bring it gradually to boil1 remove all the scum as it rises1 and simmer the heels gently from #g to #h hours1 or until the liquor is reduced one-half2 then strain it into a basin1 measuring the quantity1 and put it in a cool place4 ,clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet stock ,no4 #adaa1 using1 with the other ingredients1 about #a_/b oz4 of isinglass to each quart4 ,this stock should be made the day before it is required for use4 ,two dozen shank-bones of mutton1 boiled for #f or #g hours1 yield a quart of strong firm stock4 ,they should be put on in #b quarts of water1 which should be reduced one-half4 ,make this also the day before it is required4 ,time4--#g to #h hours to boil the cow-heels1 #f to #g hours to boil the shank-bones4 ,average cost1 from #d;d4 to #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--#b cow-heels should make #c pints of stock4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,isinglass ,,or ,,gelatine ,,jelly4 7,substitutes for ,calf's ,feet47 #adac4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of isinglass or gelatine1 #b quarts of water4 ,mode4--,put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water2 bring it quickly to boil1 and let it boil very fast1 until the liquor is reduced one-half4 ,carefully remove the scum as it rises1 then strain it through a jelly-bag1 and it will be ready for use4 ,if not required very clear1 it may be merely strained through a fine sieve1 instead of being run through a bag4 ,rather more than #a_/b oz4 of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong calf's-feet stock1 and rather more than #b oz4 for the same quantity of fruit juice4 ,as isinglass varies so much in quality and strength1 it is difficult to give the exact proportions4 ,the larger the mould1 the stiffer should be the jelly2 and where there is no ice1 more isinglass must be used than if the mixture were frozen4 ,this forms a stock for all kinds of jellies1 which may be flavoured in many ways4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,sufficient1 with wine1 syrup1 fruit1 c41 to fill two moderate-sized moulds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,the above1 when boiled1 should be perfectly clear1 and may be mixed warm with wine1 flavourings1 fruits1 c41 and then run through the bag4 ,,isinglass4--,the best isinglass is brought from ,russia2 some of an inferior kind is brought from ,north and ,south ,america and the ,east ,indies3 the several varieties may be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in ,london4 ,in choosing isinglass for domestic use1 select that which is whitest1 has no unpleasant odour1 and which dissolves most readily in water4 ,the inferior kinds are used for fining beer1 and similar purposes4 ,isinglass is much adulterated3 to test its purity1 take a few threads of the substance1 drop some into boiling water1 some into cold water1 and some into vinegar4 ,in the boiling water the isinglass will dissolve1 in cold water it will become white and cloudy1 and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like4 ,if the isinglass is adulterated with gelatine 7that is to say1 the commoner sorts of gelatine1--for isinglass is classed amongst gelatines1 of all which varieties it is the very purest and best71 in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass2 in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-like2 and in vinegar it will harden4 ,,how ,,to ,,mould ,,bottled ,,jellies4 #adad4 ,uncork the bottle2 place it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly is reduced to a liquid state2 taste it1 to ascertain whether it is sufficiently flavoured1 and if not1 add a little wine4 ,pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in water2 let it set1 and turn it out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute2 then wipe the outside1 put a dish on the top1 and turn it over quickly4 ,the jelly should then slip easily away from the mould1 and be quite firm4 ,it may be garnished as taste dictates4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,syrup ,,for ,,jellies4 #adae4 ,,ingredients4--,to every quart of water allow #b lbs4 of loaf sugar2 the white of #a egg4 ,mode4--,put the sugar and water into a stewpan2 set it on the fire1 and1 when the sugar is dissolved1 add the white of the egg1 whipped up with a little water4 ,whisk the whole well together1 and simmer very gently until it has thrown up all the scum4 ,take this off as it rises1 strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin1 and keep it for use4 ,,calf',s-,,feet ,,jelly4 #adaf4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of calf's-feet stock ,no4 #adaa1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #a_/b pint of sherry1 #a glass of brandy1 the shells and whites of #e eggs1 the rind and juice of #b lemons1 #a_/b oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,prepare the stock as directed in recipe ,no4 #adaa1 taking care to leave the sediment1 and to remove all the fat from the surface4 ,put it into a saucepan1 cold1 without clarifying it2 add the remaining ingredients1 and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed on the fire4 ,then simmer the mixture gently for #a_/d hour1 but do not stir it after it begins to warm4 ,throw in a teacupful of cold water1 boil for another #e minutes1 and keep the saucepan covered by the side of the fire for about #a_/b hour1 but do not let it boil again4 ,in simmering1 the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises2 but particular attention must be given to the jelly1 that it be not stirred in the slightest degree after it is heated4 ,the isinglass should be added when the jelly begins to boil3 this assists to clear it1 and makes it firmer for turning out4 ,wring out a jelly-bag in hot water2 fasten it on to a stand1 or the back of a chair2 place it near the fire with a basin underneath it1 and run the jelly through it4 ,should it not be perfectly clear the first time1 repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is obtained4 ,soak the moulds in water1 drain them for half a second1 pour in the jelly1 and put it in a cool place to set4 ,if ice is at hand1 surround the moulds with it1 and the jelly will set sooner1 and be firmer when turned out4 ,in summer it is necessary to have ice in which to put the moulds1 or the cook will be1 very likely1 disappointed1 by her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly1 unless a great deal of isinglass is used4 ,when wanted for table1 dip the moulds in hot water for a minute1 wipe the outside with a cloth1 lay a dish on the top of the mould1 turn it quickly over1 and the jelly should slip out easily4 ,it is sometimes served broken into square lumps1 and piled high in glasses4 ,earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or tin1 for red jellies1 the colour and transparency of the composition being often spoiled by using the latter4 ,illustration3 ,,jelly-,,mould4 ,to make this jelly more economically1 raisin wine may be substituted for the sherry and brandy1 and the stock made from cow-heels1 instead of calf's feet4 ,time4--#bj minutes to simmer the jelly1 #a_/b hour to stand covered4 ,average cost1 reckoning the feet at #f;d4 each1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill two #a-a_/b-pint moulds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,as lemon-juice1 unless carefully strained1 is liable to make the jelly muddy1 see that it is clear before it is added to the other ingredients4 ,omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to4 ,,sherry4--,there are several kinds of sherry1 as pale and brown1 and there are various degrees of each4 ,sherry is1 in general1 of an amber-colour1 and1 when good1 has a fine aromatic odour1 with something of the agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel4 ,when new1 it is harsh and fiery1 and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years4 ,sherry has of late got much into fashion in ,england1 from the idea that it is more free from acid than other wines2 but some careful experiments on wines do not fully confirm this opinion4 ,,cannelons1 or ,,fried ,,puffs4 7,sweet ,entremets47 #adag4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of puff-paste ,no4 #abje2 apricot1 or any kind of preserve that may be preferred2 hot lard4 ,mode4--,cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin1 with jam inclosed1 and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs1 make a very pretty and elegant dish4 ,make some good puff-paste1 by recipe ,no4 #abje2 roll it out very thin1 and cut it into pieces of an equal size1 about #b inches wide and #h inches long2 place upon each piece a spoonful of jam1 wet the edges with the white of egg1 and fold the paste over twice2 slightly press the edges together1 that the jam may not escape in the frying2 and when all are prepared1 fry them in boiling lard until of a nice brown1 letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are coloured1 that the paste may be thoroughly done4 ,drain them before the fire1 dish on a d'oyley1 sprinkle over them sifted sugar1 and serve4 ,these cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit1 such as strawberries1 raspberries1 or currants3 it should be laid in the paste1 plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over1 and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient1--#a_/b lb4 of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons4 ,seasonable1 with jam1 at any time4 ,,charlotte-,,aux-,,pommes4 #adah4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of rather stale bread #a_/b inch thick1 clarified butter1 apple marmalade made by recipe ,no4 #acie1 with about #b dozen apples1 #a_/b glass of sherry4 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte-,,aux-,,pommes4 ,mode4--,cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain round mould1 which has been well buttered1 and a few strips the height of the mould1 and about #a-a_/b inch wide2 dip the bread in clarified butter 7or spread it with cold butter1 if not wanted quite so rich72 place the round piece at the bottom of the mould1 and set the narrow strips up the sides of it1 overlapping each other a little1 that no juice from the apples may escape1 and that they may hold firmly to the mould4 ,brush the interior over with white of egg 7this will assist to make the case firmer72 fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe ,no4 #acie1 with the addition of a little sherry1 and cover them with a round piece of bread1 also brushed over with egg1 the same as the bottom2 slightly press the bread down1 to make it adhere to the other pieces2 put a plate on the top1 and bake the charlotte in a brisk oven1 of a light colour4 ,turn it out on the dish1 strew sifted sugar over the top1 and pour round it a little melted apricot jam4 ,time4--#dj to #ej minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,an ,,easy ,,method ,,of ,,making ,a ,,charlotte-,,aux-,,pommes4 #adai4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of powdered sugar1 #a_/b teaspoonful of baking-powder1 #a egg1 milk1 #a glass of raisin-wine1 apple marmalade ,no4 #acie1 #a_/d pint of cream1 #b dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar1 #b tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,make a cake with the flour1 butter1 sugar1 and baking-powder2 moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency1 and bake it in a round tin4 ,when cold1 scoop out the middle1 leaving a good thickness all round the sides1 to prevent them breaking2 take some of the scooped-out pieces1 which should be trimmed into neat slices2 lay them in the cake1 and pour over sufficient raisin-wine1 with the addition of a little brandy1 if approved1 to soak them well4 ,have ready some apple marmalade1 made by recipe ,no4 #acie2 place a layer of this over the soaked cake1 then a layer of cake and a layer of apples2 whip the cream to a froth1 mixing with it the sugar and lemon-juice2 pile it on the top of the charlotte1 and garnish it with pieces of clear apple jelly4 ,this dish is served cold1 but may be eaten hot1 by omitting the cream1 and merely garnishing the top with bright jelly just before it is sent to table4 ,time4--#a hour to bake the cake4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,a ,,very ,,simple ,,apple ,,charlotte4 #adbj4 ,,ingredients4--#i slices of bread and butter1 about #f good-sized apples1 #a tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel1 #b tablespoonfuls of juice1 moist sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,butter a pie-dish2 place a layer of bread and butter1 without the crust1 at the bottom2 then a layer of apples1 pared1 cored1 and cut into thin slices2 sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and juice1 and sweeten with moist sugar4 ,place another layer of bread and butter1 and then one of apples1 proceeding in this manner until the dish is full2 then cover it up with the peel of the apples1 to preserve the top from browning or burning2 bake in a brisk oven for rather more than #c_/d hour2 torn the charlotte on a dish1 sprinkle sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,charlotte ,,russe4 7,an ,elegant ,sweet ,entremets47 #adba4 ,,ingredients4--,about #ah ,savoy biscuits1 #c_/d pint of cream1 flavouring of vanilla1 liqueurs1 or wine1 #a tablespoonful of pounded sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,procure about #ah ,savoy biscuits1 or ladies'-fingers1 as they are sometimes called2 brush the edges of them with the white of an egg1 and line the bottom of a plain round mould1 placing them like a star or rosette4 ,stand them upright all round the edge2 carefully put them so closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly1 and place this case in the oven for about #e minutes1 just to dry the egg4 ,whisk the cream to a stiff froth1 with the sugar1 flavouring1 and melted isinglass2 fill the charlotte with it1 cover with a slice of sponge-cake cut in the shape of the mould2 place it in ice1 where let it remain till ready for table2 then turn it on a dish1 remove the mould1 and serve4 #a tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind1 or #d tablespoonfuls of wine1 would nicely flavour the above proportion of cream4 ,for arranging the biscuits in the mould1 cut them to the shape required1 so that they fit in nicely1 and level them with the mould at the top1 that1 when turned out1 there may be something firm to rest upon4 ,great care and attention is required in the turning out of this dish1 that the cream does not burst the case2 and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity of egg brushed over them1 or it would stick to the mould1 and so prevent the charlotte from coming away properly4 ,time4--#e minutes in the oven4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #a charlotte4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,cream ,a ,,la ,,valois4 #adbb4 ,,ingredients4--#d sponge-cakes1 jam1 #c_/d pint of cream1 sugar to taste1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/d glass of sherry1 #a-a_/d oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices2 place two together1 with preserve between them1 and pour over them a small quantity of sherry mixed with a little brandy4 ,sweeten and flavour the cream with the lemon-juice and sherry2 add the isinglass1 which should be dissolved in a little water1 and beat up the cream well4 ,place a little in an oiled mould2 arrange the pieces of cake in the cream2 then fill the mould with the remainder2 let it cool1 and turn it out on a dish4 ,by oiling the mould1 the cream will have a much smoother appearance1 and will turn out more easily than when merely dipped in cold water4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a #a-a_/b pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,boiled ,,custards4 #adbc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #e eggs1 #c oz4 of loaf sugar1 #c laurel-leaves1 or the rind of #d lemon1 or a few drops of essence of vanilla1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,illustration3 ,,custards ,,in ,,glasses4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a lined saucepan1 with the sugar1 and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred 7the lemon-rind flavours custards most deliciously71 and let the milk steep by the side of the fire until it is well flavoured4 ,bring it to the point of boiling1 then strain it into a basin2 whisk the eggs well1 and1 when the milk has cooled a little1 stir in the eggs1 and strain this mixture into a jug4 ,place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire2 keep stirring the custard one way until it thickens2 but on no account allow it to reach the boiling-point1 as it will instantly curdle and be full of lumps4 ,take it off the fire1 stir in the brandy1 and1 when this is well mixed with the custard1 pour it into glasses1 which should be rather more than three-parts full2 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and the dish is ready for table4 ,to make custards look and eat better1 ducks' eggs should be used1 when obtainable2 they add very much to the flavour and richness1 and so many are not required as of the ordinary eggs1 #d ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard4 ,when desired extremely rich and good1 cream should be substituted for the milk1 and double the quantity of eggs used1 to those mentioned1 omitting the whites4 ,time4 #a_/b hour to infuse the lemon-rind1 about #aj minutes to stir the custard4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient to fill #h custard-glasses4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ginger ,,apples4 7,a pretty ,supper or ,dessert ,dish47 #adbd4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of whole ginger1 #a_/d pint of whiskey1 #c lbs4 of apples1 #b lbs4 of white sugar1 the juice of #b lemons4 ,mode4--,bruise the ginger1 put it into a small jar1 pour over sufficient whiskey to cover it1 and let it remain for #c days2 then cut the apples into thin slices1 after paring and coring them2 add the sugar and the lemon-juice1 which should he strained2 and simmer all together very gently until the apples are transparent1 but not broken4 ,serve cold1 and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved ginger4 ,time4--#c days to soak the ginger2 about #c_/d hour to simmer the apples very gently4 ,average cost1 #bs1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #c dishes4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,french ,,pancakes4 #adbe4 ,,ingredients4--#b eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b oz4 of sifted sugar1 #b oz4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of new milk4 ,mode4--,beat the eggs thoroughly1 and put them into a basin with the butter1 which should be beaten to a cream2 stir in the sugar and flour1 and when these ingredients are well mixed1 add the milk2 keep stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes2 put it on buttered plates1 and bake in a quick oven for #bj minutes4 ,serve with a cut lemon and sifted sugar1 or pile the pancakes high on a dish1 with a layer of preserve or marmalade between each4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,dutch ,,flummery4 #adbf4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 the rind and juice of #a lemon1 #a pint of water1 #d eggs1 #a pint of sherry1 ,madeira1 or raisin-wine2 sifted sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,put the water1 isinglass1 and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan1 and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved2 strain this into a basin1 stir in the eggs1 which should be well beaten1 the lemon-juice1 which should be strained1 and the wine2 sweeten to taste with pounded sugar1 mix all well together1 pour it into a jug1 set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire1 and keep stirring it one way until it thickens2 but take care that it does not boil4 ,strain it into a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time1 and put it in a cool place to set4 ,a tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just before it is poured into the mould1 improves the flavour of this dish3 it is better if made the day before it is required for table4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to simmer the isinglass2 about #a_/d hour to stir the mixture over the fire4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #f;d41 if made with sherry2 less with raisin-wine4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,pale ,,sherries are made from the same grapes as brown4 ,the latter are coloured by an addition of some cheap must1 or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint4 ,pale sherries were1 some time ago1 preferred in ,england1 being supposed most pure2 but the brown are preferred by many people4 ,the inferior sherries exported to ,england are often mixed with a cheap and light wine called ,moguer1 and are strengthened in the making by brandy2 but too frequently they are adulterated by the ,london dealers4 ,,chocolate ,,souffle4 #adbg4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #c teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #c oz4 of the best chocolate4 ,mode4--,break the eggs1 separating the whites from the yolks1 and put them into different basins2 add to the yolks the sugar1 flour1 and chocolate1 which should be very finely grated1 and stir these ingredients for #e minutes4 ,then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the other basin1 until they are stiff1 and1 when firm1 mix lightly with the yolks1 till the whole forms a smooth and light substance2 butter a round cake-tin1 put in the mixture1 and bake in a moderate oven from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,pin a white napkin round the tin1 strew sifted sugar over the top of the souffl1 and send it immediately to table4 ,the proper appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it is served1 and some cooks1 to preserve its lightness1 hold a salamander over the souffl until it is placed on the table4 ,if allowed to stand after it comes from the oven1 it will be entirely spoiled1 as it falls almost immediately4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for a moderate-sized souffl4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,darioles ,a ,,la ,,vanille4 7,sweet ,entremets47 #adbh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b oz4 of flour1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 #f eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 puff-paste1 flavouring of essence of vanilla4 ,mode4--,mix the flour to a smooth batter1 with the milk2 stir in the cream1 sugar1 the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and the butter1 which should be beaten to a cream4 ,put in some essence of vanilla1 drop by drop1 until the mixture is well flavoured2 line some dariole-moulds with puff-paste1 three-parts fill them with the batter1 and bake in a good oven from #be to #ce minutes4 ,turn them out of the moulds on a dish1 without breaking them2 strew over sifted sugar1 and serve4 ,the flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon1 cinnamon1 or almonds1 for the vanilla4 ,time4--#be to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient to fill #f or #g dariole-moulds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,currant ,,fritters4 #adbi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of milk1 #b tablespoonfuls of flour1 #d eggs1 #c tablespoonfuls of boiled rice1 #c tablespoonfuls of currants1 sugar to taste1 a very little grated nutmeg1 hot lard or clarified dripping4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a basin with the flour1 which should previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk2 stir these ingredients together2 add the well-whisked eggs1 the rice1 currants1 sugar1 and nutmeg4 ,beat the mixture for a few minutes1 and1 if not sufficiently thick1 add a little more boiled rice2 drop it1 in small quantities1 into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping2 fry the fritters a nice brown1 and1 when done1 drain them on a piece of blotting-paper1 before the fire4 ,pile them on a white d'oyley1 strew over sifted sugar1 and serve them very hot4 ,send a cut lemon to table with them4 ,time4--,from #h to #aj minutes to fry the fritters4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,chocolate ,,cream4 #adcj4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of grated chocolate1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a-a_/b pint of cream1 #a_/b oz4 of clarified isinglass1 the yolks of #f eggs4 ,illustration3 ,,cream-,,mould4 ,mode4--,beat the yolks of the eggs well2 put them into a basin with the grated chocolate1 the sugar1 and #a pint of the cream2 stir these ingredients well together1 pour them into a jug1 and set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water2 stir it one way until the mixture thickens1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,strain the cream through a sieve into a basin2 stir in the isinglass and the other #a_/b pint of cream1 which should be well whipped2 mix all well together1 and pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest salad-oil1 and1 if at hand1 set it in ice until wanted for table4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to stir the mixture over the fire4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #f;d1 with cream at #as4 per pint4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,geneva ,,wafers4 #adca4 ,,ingredients4--#b eggs1 #c oz4 of butter1 #c oz4 of flour1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,well whisk the eggs2 put them into a basin1 and stir to them the butter1 which should be beaten to a cream2 add the flour and sifted sugar gradually1 and then mix all well together4 ,butter a baking-sheet1 and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time1 leaving a space between each4 ,bake in a cool oven2 watch the pieces of paste1 and1 when half done1 roll them up like wafers1 and put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood1 to keep them in shape4 ,return them to the oven until crisp4 ,before serving1 remove the bread1 put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end1 and fill up with whipped cream4 ,this is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the supper-table1 and is very nice and very easily made4 ,time4--,altogether #bj to #be minutes4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the preserve and cream1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for a nice-sized dish4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ginger ,,cream4 #adcb4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #d eggs1 #a pint of cream1 #c oz4 of preserved ginger1 #b dessertspoonfuls of syrup1 sifted sugar to taste1 #a oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,slice the ginger finely2 put it into a basin with the syrup1 the well-beaten yolks of eggs1 and the cream2 mix these ingredients well together1 and stir them over the fire for about #aj minutes1 or until the mixture thickens2 then take it off the fire1 whisk till nearly cold1 sweeten to taste1 add the isinglass1 which should be melted and strained1 and serve the cream in a glass dish4 ,it may be garnished with slices of preserved ginger or candied citron4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to stir the cream over the fire4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for a good-sized dish4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,preserved ,,ginger comes to us from the ,west ,indies4 ,it is made by scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap1 then peeling them in cold water1 and putting them into jars1 with a rich syrup2 in which state we receive them4 ,it should be chosen of a bright-yellow colour1 with a little transparency3 what is dark-coloured1 fibrous1 and stringy1 is not good4 ,ginger roots1 fit for preserving1 and in size equal to ,west ,indian1 have been produced in the ,royal ,agricultural ,garden in ,edinburgh4 ,,to ,,make ,,gooseberry ,,fool4 #adcc4 ,,ingredients4--,green gooseberries2 to every pint of pulp add #a pint of milk1 or #a_/b pint of cream and #a_/b pint of milk2 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries2 put them into a jar1 with #b tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar2 set this jar in a saucepan of boiling water1 and let it boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash4 ,when done enough1 beat it to a pulp1 work this pulp through a colander1 and stir to every pint the above proportion of milk1 or equal quantities of milk and cream4 ,ascertain if the mixture is sweet enough1 and put in plenty of sugar1 or it will not be eatable2 and in mixing the milk and gooseberries1 add the former very gradually to these3 serve in a glass dish1 or in small glasses4 ,this1 although a very old-fashioned and homely dish1 is1 when well made1 very delicious1 and1 if properly sweetened1 a very suitable preparation for children4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per pint1 with milk4 ,sufficient4--,a pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for #e or #f children4 ,seasonable in ,may and ,june4 ,,gooseberry ,,trifle4 #adcd4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of gooseberries1 sugar to taste1 #a pint of custard ,no4 #adbc1 a plateful of whipped cream4 ,mode4--,put the gooseberries into a jar1 with sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them1 and boil them until reduced to a pulp4 ,put this pulp at the bottom of a trifle-dish2 pour over it a pint of custard made by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 and1 when cold1 cover with whipped cream4 ,the cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table1 as it will then be so much firmer and more solid4 ,the dish may be garnished as fancy dictates4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to boil the gooseberries4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a trifle4 ,seasonable in ,may and ,june4 ,,indian ,,fritters4 #adce4 ,,ingredients4--#c tablespoonfuls of flour1 boiling water1 the yolks of #d eggs1 the whites of #b1 hot lard or clarified dripping1 jam4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin1 and pour over it sufficient boiling water to make it into a stiff paste1 taking care to stir and beat it well1 to prevent it getting lumpy4 ,leave it a little time to cool1 and then break into it 7without beating them at first7 the yolks of #d eggs and the whites of #b1 and stir and beat all well together4 ,have ready some boiling lard or butter2 drop a dessertspoonful of batter in at a time1 and fry the fritters of a light brown4 ,they should rise so much as to be almost like balls4 ,serve on a dish1 with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter4 ,this is an excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner1 if a guest unexpectedly arrives1 it being so easily and quickly made1 and it is always a great favourite4 ,time4--,from #e to #h minutes to fry the fritters4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the jam1 #e;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,indian ,,trifle4 #adcf4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of milk1 the rind of #a_/b large lemon1 sugar to taste1 #e heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour1 #a oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/b pint of custard4 ,mode4--,boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well flavoured2 take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour1 which should first be moistened with cold milk1 and add sufficient loaf sugar to sweeten it nicely4 ,boil gently for about #e minutes1 and keep the mixture stirred2 take it off the fire1 let it cool a little1 and pour it into a glass dish4 ,when cold1 cut the rice out in the form of a star1 or any other shape that may be preferred2 take out the spare rice1 and fill the space with boiled custard4 ,blanch and cut the almonds into strips2 stick them over the trifle1 and garnish it with pieces of brightly-coloured jelly1 or preserved fruits1 or candied citron4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to simmer the milk1 #e minutes after the rice is added4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #a trifle4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,citron4 ,,the ,,citron4--,the citron belongs to the same species as the lemon1 being considered only as a variety1 the distinction between them not being very great4 ,it is larger1 and is less succulent1 but more acid3 with a little artificial heat1 the citron comes to as great perfection in ,england as in ,spain and ,italy4 ,the fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in length4 ,the tree is thorny4 ,the juice forms an excellent lemonade with sugar and water2 its uses in punch1 negus1 and in medicine1 are well known4 ,the rind is very thick1 and1 when candied with sugar1 forms an excellent sweetmeat4 ,there are several varieties cultivated in ,england1 one of which is termed the ,forbidden ,fruit4 ,,italian ,,cream4 #adcg4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 #d pint of cream1 sugar to taste1 #a oz4 of isinglass1 #a lemon1 the yolks of #d eggs4 ,mode4--,put the cream and milk into a saucepan1 with sugar to sweeten1 and the lemon-rind4 ,boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it into a basin1 and add the beaten yolks of eggs4 ,put this mixture into a jug2 place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire1 and stir the contents until they thicken1 but do not allow them to boil4 ,take the cream off the fire1 stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass1 which should be melted1 and whip well2 fill a mould1 place it in ice if at hand1 and1 when set1 turn it out on a dish1 and garnish as taste may dictate4 ,the mixture may be whipped and drained1 and then put into small glasses1 when this mode of serving is preferred4 ,time4--,from #e to #h minutes to stir the mixture in the jug4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill #a-a_/b-pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,hidden ,,mountain4 7,a pretty ,supper ,dish47 #adch4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 a few slices of citron1 sugar to taste1 #a_/d pint of cream1 a layer of any kind of jam4 ,mode4--,beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately2 then mix them and beat well again1 adding a few thin slices of citron1 the cream1 and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely4 ,when the mixture is well beaten1 put it into a buttered pan1 and fry the same as a pancake2 but it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake4 ,cover it with jam1 and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves4 ,this dish is served cold4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to fry the mixture4 ,average cost1 with the jam1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,jaunemange4 #adci4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of isinglass1 #a pint of water1 #a_/b pint of white wine1 the rind and juice of #a large lemon1 sugar to taste1 the yolks of #f eggs4 ,mode4--,put the isinglass1 water1 and lemon-rind into a saucepan1 and boil gently until the former is dissolved2 then add the strained lemon-juice1 the wine1 and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely4 ,boil for #b or #c minutes1 strain the mixture into a jug1 and add the yolks of the eggs1 which should be well beaten2 place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water2 keep stirring the mixture one way until it thickens1 but do not allow it to boil2 then take it off the fire1 and keep stirring until nearly cold4 ,pour it into a mould1 omitting the sediment at the bottom of the jug1 and let it remain until quite firm4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to boil the isinglass and water2 about #aj minutes to stir the mixture in the jug4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,jelly ,,moulded ,,with ,,fresh ,,fruit1 or ,,macedoine ,,de ,,fruits4 #addj4 ,,ingredients4--,rather more than #a-a_/b pint of jelly1 a few nice strawberries1 or red or white currants1 or raspberries1 or any fresh fruit that may be in season4 ,mode4--,have ready the above proportion of jelly1 which must be very clear and rather sweet1 the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity of sugar4 ,select ripe1 nice-looking fruit2 pick off the stalks1 unless currants are used1 when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the tree4 ,begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould1 which must harden2 then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould1 recollecting2 that it will be reversed when turned out2 then pour in some more jelly to make the fruit adhere1 and1 when that layer is set1 put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full4 ,if convenient1 put it in ice until required for table1 then wring a cloth in boiling water1 wrap it round the mould for a minute1 and turn the jelly carefully out4 ,peaches1 apricots1 plums1 apples1 c41 are better for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the jelly2 strawberries1 raspberries1 grapes1 cherries1 and currants are put in raw4 ,in winter1 when fresh fruits are not obtainable1 a very pretty jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries3 these1 in a bright and clear jelly1 have a very pretty effect2 of course1 unless the jelly be very clear1 the beauty of the dish will be spoiled4 ,it may be garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly2 for instance1 an open jelly with strawberries might have1 piled in the centre1 a few of the same fruit prettily arranged1 or a little whipped cream might be substituted for the fruit4 ,illustration3 ,,jelly ,,moulded ,,with ,,cherries4 ,time4--,one layer of jelly should remain #b hours in a very cool place1 before another layer is added4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient1 with fruit1 to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable1 with fresh fruit1 from ,june to ,october2 with dried1 at any time4 ,,jelly ,,of ,,two ,,colours4 #adda4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of calf's-feet jelly ,no4 #adaf1 a few drops of prepared cochineal4 ,illustration3 ,,jelly ,,of ,,two ,,colours4 ,mode4--,make #a-a_/b pint of jelly by recipe ,no4 #adaf1 or1 if wished more economical1 of clarified syrup and gelatine1 flavouring it in any way that may be preferred4 ,colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of prepared cochineal1 and the other half leave as pale as possible4 ,have ready a mould well wetted in every part2 pour in a small quantity of the red jelly1 and let this set2 when quite firm1 pour on it the same quantity of the pale jelly1 and let this set2 then proceed in this manner until the mould is full1 always taking care to let one jelly set before the other is poured in1 or the colours would run one into the other4 ,when turned out1 the jelly should have a striped appearance4 ,for variety1 half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies1 and1 when firm1 filled up with the other3 this1 also1 has a very pretty effect1 and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured in small quantities into the mould4 ,blancmange and red jelly1 or blancmange and raspberry cream1 moulded in the above manner1 look very well4 ,the layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in depth1 and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is added4 ,half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are frequently served in the same manner4 ,a few pretty dishes may be made1 in this way1 of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day1 by melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water1 and then moulding them by the foregoing directions4 7,see coloured plate ,s#a47 ,time4--#c_/d hour to make the jelly4 ,average cost1 with calf's-feet jelly1 #bs42 with gelatine and syrup1 more economical4 ,sufficient to fill #a-a_/b pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,in making the jelly1 use for flavouring a very pale sherry1 or the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly4 ,,lemon ,,blancmange4 #addb4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of milk1 the yolks of #d eggs1 #c oz4 of ground rice1 #f oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a-a_/b oz4 of fresh butter1 the rind of #a lemon1 the juice of #b1 #a_/b oz4 of gelatine4 ,illustration3 ,,blancmange ,,mould4 ,mode4--,make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and #a_/b pint of the milk1 and1 when done1 put it into a basin3 put half the remainder of the milk into a saucepan with the ground rice1 fresh butter1 lemon-rind1 and #c oz4 of the sugar1 and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is stiff1 stirring them continually2 when done1 pour it into the bowl where the custard is1 mixing both well together4 ,put the gelatine with the rest of the milk into a saucepan1 and let it stand by the side of the fire to dissolve2 boil for a minute or two1 stir carefully into the basin1 adding #c oz4 more of pounded sugar4 ,when cold1 stir in the lemon-juice1 which should be carefully strained1 and pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould1 leaving out the lemon-peel1 and set the mould in a pan of cold water until wanted for table4 ,use eggs that have rich-looking yolks2 and1 should the weather be very warm1 rather a larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill #b small moulds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,cream4 #addc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of cream1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #a_/d lb4 of white sugar1 #a large lemon1 #a oz4 of isinglass4 ,illustration3 ,,lemon-,,cream ,,mould4 ,mode4--,put the cream into a lined saucepan with the sugar1 lemon-peel1 and isinglass1 and simmer these over a gentle fire for about #aj minutes1 stirring them all the time4 ,strain the cream into a jug1 add the yolks of eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and put the jug into a saucepan of boiling water2 stir the mixture one way until it thickens1 but do not allow it to boil2 take it off the fire1 and keep stirring it until nearly cold4 ,strain the lemon-juice into a basin1 gradually pour on it the cream1 and stir it well until the juice is well mixed with it4 ,have ready a well-oiled mould1 pour the cream into it1 and let it remain until perfectly set4 ,when required for table1 loosen the edges with a small blunt knife1 put a dish on the top of the mould1 turn it over quickly1 and the cream should easily slip away4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the cream2 about #aj minutes to stir it over the fire in the jug4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 and the best isinglass1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill #a-a_/b-pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,economical ,,lemon ,,cream4 #addd4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of milk1 #h bitter almonds1 #b oz4 of gelatine1 #b large lemons1 #c_/d lb4 of lump sugar1 the yolks of #f eggs4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds1 which should be well pounded in a mortar1 the gelatine1 lemon-rind1 and lump sugar1 and boil these ingredients for about #e minutes4 ,beat up the yolks of the eggs1 strain the milk into a jug1 add the eggs1 and pour the mixture backwards and forwards a few times1 until nearly cold2 then stir briskly to it the lemon-juice1 which should be strained1 and keep stirring until the cream is almost cold3 put it into an oiled mould1 and let it remain until perfectly set4 ,the lemon-juice must not be added to the cream when it is warm1 and should be well stirred after it is put in4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil the milk4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #e;d4 ,sufficient to fill two #a-a_/b-pint moulds4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,creams4 7,very good47 #adde4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of cream1 #b dozen sweet almonds1 #c glasses of sherry1 the rind and juice of #b lemons1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,blanch and chop the almonds1 and put them into a jug with the cream2 in another jug put the sherry1 lemon-rind1 strained juice1 and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely4 ,pour rapidly from one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed2 then1 pour it into jelly-glasses1 omitting the lemon-rind4 ,this is a very cool and delicious sweet for summer1 and may be made less rich by omitting the almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #cs4 ,sufficient to fill #ab glasses4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,creams ,,of ,,custards4 #addf4 ,,ingredients4--#e oz4 of loaf sugar1 #b pints of boiling water1 the rind of #a lemon and the juice of #c1 the yolks of #h eggs4 ,mode4--,make a quart of lemonade in the following manner3--,dissolve the sugar in the boiling water1 having previously1 with part of the sugar1 rubbed off the lemon-rind1 and add the strained juice4 ,strain the lemonade into a saucepan1 and add the yolks of the eggs1 which should be well beaten2 stir this one way over the fire until the mixture thickens1 but do not allow it to boil1 and serve in custard-glasses1 or on a glass dish4 ,after the boiling water is poured on the sugar and lemon1 it should stand covered for about #a_/b hour before the eggs are added to it1 that the flavour of the rind may be extracted4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to make the lemonade2 about #aj minutes to stir the custard over the fire4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to fill #ab to #ad custard-glasses4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,jelly4 #addg4 ,,ingredients4--#f lemons1 #c_/d lb4 of lump sugar1 #a pint of water1 #a-a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 #a_/d pint of sherry4 ,mode4--,peel #c of the lemons1 pour #a_/b pint of boiling water on the rind1 and let it infuse for #a_/b hour2 put the sugar1 isinglass1 and #a_/b pint of water into a lined saucepan1 and boil these ingredients for #bj minutes2 then put in the strained lemon-juice1 the strained infusion of the rind1 and bring the whole to the point of boiling2 skim well1 add the wine1 and run the jelly through a bag2 pour it into a mould that has been wetted or soaked in water2 put it in ice1 if convenient1 where let it remain until required for table4 ,previously to adding the lemon-juice to the other ingredients1 ascertain that it is very nicely strained1 as1 if this is not properly attended to1 it is liable to make the jelly thick and muddy4 ,as this jelly is very pale1 and almost colourless1 it answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue2 for instance1 half a jelly bright red1 and the other half made of the above1 would have a very good effect4 ,lemon jelly may also be made with calf's-feet stock1 allowing the juice of #c lemons to every pint of stock4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a hour4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to fill #a-a_/b-pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,sponge4 #addh4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of isinglass1 #a-c_/d pint of water1 #c_/d lb4 of pounded sugar1 the juice of #e lemons1 the rind of #a1 the whites of #c eggs4 ,mode4--,dissolve the isinglass in the water1 strain it into a saucepan1 and add the sugar1 lemon-rind1 and juice4 ,boil the whole from #aj to #ae minutes2 strain it again1 and let it stand till it is cold and begins to stiffen4 ,beat the whites of the eggs1 put them to it1 and whisk the mixture till it is quite white2 put it into a mould which has been previously wetted1 and let it remain until perfectly set2 then turn it out1 and garnish it according to taste4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,liqueur ,,jelly4 #addi4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of lump sugar1 #b oz4 of isinglass1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 the juice of #b lemons1 #a_/d pint of liqueur4 ,illustration3 ,,oval ,,jelly-,,mould4 ,mode4--,put the sugar1 with #a pint of the water1 into a stewpan1 and boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum remaining1 which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises4 ,boil the isinglass with the other #a_/b pint of water1 and skim it carefully in the same manner4 ,strain the lemon-juice1 and add it1 with the clarified isinglass1 to the syrup2 put in the liqueur1 and bring the whole to the boiling-point4 ,let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire for a few minutes2 then pour the jelly through a bag1 put it into a mould1 and set the mould in ice until required for table4 ,dip the mould in hot water1 wipe the outside1 loosen the jelly by passing a knife round the edges1 and turn it out carefully on a dish4 ,noyeau1 ,maraschino1 ,curaoa1 brandy1 or any kind of liqueur1 answers for this jelly2 and1 when made with isinglass1 liqueur jellies are usually prepared as directed above4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the sugar and water4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,sweet ,,dish ,,of ,,macaroni4 #adej4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of macaroni1 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 #c oz4 of lump sugar1 #c_/d pint of custard ,no4 #adbc4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a saucepan1 with the lemon-peel and sugar2 bring it to the boiling-point1 drop in the macaroni1 and let it gradually swell over a gentle fire1 but do not allow the pipes to break4 ,the form should be entirely preserved2 and1 though tender1 should be firm1 and not soft1 with no part beginning to melt4 ,should the milk dry away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled1 add a little more4 ,make a custard by recipe ,no4 #adbc2 place the macaroni on a dish1 and pour the custard over the hot macaroni2 grate over it a little nutmeg1 and1 when cold1 garnish the dish with slices of candied citron4 ,time4--,from #dj to #ej minutes to swell the macaroni4 ,average cost1 with the custard1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,meringues4 #adea4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of pounded sugar1 the whites of #d eggs4 ,illustration3 ,,meringues4 ,mode4--,whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth1 and1 with a wooden spoon1 stir in quickly the pounded sugar2 and have some boards thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues from acquiring too much colour4 ,cut some strips of paper about #b inches wide2 place this paper on the board1 and drop a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture on the paper1 taking care to let all the meringues be the same size4 ,in dropping it from the spoon1 give the mixture the form of an egg1 and keep the meringues about #b inches apart from each other on the paper4 ,strew over them some sifted sugar1 and bake in a moderate oven for #a_/b hour4 ,as soon as they begin to colour1 remove them from the oven2 take each slip of paper by the two ends1 and turn it gently on the table1 and1 with a small spoon1 take out the soft part of each meringue4 ,spread some clean paper on the board1 turn the meringues upside down1 and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side4 ,when required for table1 fill them with whipped cream1 flavoured with liqueur or vanilla1 and sweetened with pounded sugar4 ,join two of the meringues together1 and pile them high in the dish1 as shown in the annexed drawing4 ,to vary their appearance1 finely-chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over2 and they may be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve4 ,great expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish2 as1 if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed1 the former melts1 and the mixture would run on the paper1 instead of keeping its egg-shape4 ,the sweeter the meringues are made1 the crisper will they be2 but1 if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them1 they will most likely be tough4 ,they are sometimes coloured with cochineal2 and1 if kept well covered in a dry place1 will remain good for a month or six weeks4 ,time4--,altogether1 about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with the cream and flavouring1 #as4 ,sufficient to make #b dozen meringues4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,noyeau ,,cream4 #adeb4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 the juice of #b lemons1 noyeau and pounded sugar to taste1 #a-a_/b pint of cream4 ,mode4--,dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water1 add the lemon-juice1 and strain this to the cream1 putting in sufficient noyeau and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely2 whisk the cream well1 put it into an oiled mould1 and set the mould in ice or in a cool place2 turn it out1 and garnish the dish to taste4 ,time4--,altogether1 #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint and the best isinglass1 #ds4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,open ,,jelly ,,with ,,whipped ,,cream4 7,a very pretty dish47 #adec4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of jelly1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #a glass of sherry1 sugar to taste4 ,illustration3 ,,open ,,jelly ,,with ,,whipped ,,cream4 ,mode4--,make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly1 colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred2 soak a mould1 open in the centre1 for about #a_/b hour in cold water2 fill it with the jelly1 and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set2 then turn it out on a dish2 fill the centre with whipped cream1 flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar2 pile this cream high in the centre1 and serve4 ,the jelly should be made of rather a dark colour1 to contrast nicely with the cream4 ,time4--#c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill #a-a_/b-pint mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,orange ,,jelly4 #aded4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of water1 #a-a_/b to #b oz4 of isinglass1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a ,seville orange1 #a lemon1 about #i ,china oranges4 ,illustration3 ,,open ,,mould4 ,mode4--,put the water into a saucepan1 with the isinglass1 sugar1 and the rind of #a orange1 and the same of #a_/b lemon1 and stir these over the fire until the isinglass is dissolved1 and remove the scum2 then add to this the juice of the ,seville orange1 the juice of the lemon1 and sufficient juice of ,china oranges to make in all #a pint2 from #h to #aj oranges will yield the desired quantity4 ,stir all together over the fire until it is just on the point of boiling2 skim well2 then strain the jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag1 and when nearly cold1 put it into a mould previously wetted1 and1 when quite set1 turn it out on a dish1 and garnish it to taste4 ,to insure this jelly being clear1 the orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained1 and the isinglass clarified1 before they are added to the other ingredients1 and1 to heighten the colour1 a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil without the juice2 #a minute after it is added4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,orange ,,jelly ,,moulded ,,with ,,slices ,,of ,,orange4 #adee4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of orange jelly ,no4 #aded1 #d oranges1 #a pint of clarified syrup4 ,mode4--,boil #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar with #a_/b pint of water until there is no scum left 7which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises71 and carefully peel the oranges2 divide them into thin slices1 without breaking the thin skin1 and put these pieces of orange into the syrup1 where let them remain for about #e minutes2 then take them out1 and use the syrup for the jelly1 which should be made by recipe ,no4 #aded4 ,when the oranges are well drained1 and the jelly is nearly cold1 pour a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould2 then lay in a few pieces of orange2 over these pour a little jelly1 and when this is set1 place another layer of oranges1 proceeding in this manner until the mould is full4 ,put it in ice1 or in a cool place1 and1 before turning it out1 wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two1 which has been wrung out in boiling water4 ,time4--#e minutes to simmer the oranges4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient1 with the slices of orange1 to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,plain ,,omelet4 #adef4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 #a_/c saltspoonful of pepper1 #a_/d lb4 of butter4 ,illustration3 ,,omelet4 ,mode4--,break the eggs into a basin1 omitting the whites of #c1 and beat them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light2 then add #b oz4 of the butter broken into small pieces1 and stir this into the mixture4 ,put the other #b oz4 of butter into a frying-pan1 make it quite hot1 and1 as soon as it begins to bubble1 whisk the eggs1 c4 very briskly for a minute or two1 and pour them into the pan2 stir the omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm1 and when the whole is set1 fold the edges over1 so that the omelet assumes an oval form2 and when it is nicely brown on one side1 and quite firm1 it is done4 ,to take off the rawness on the upper side1 hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two1 and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel4 ,serve very expeditiously on a very hot dish1 and never cook it until it is just wanted4 ,the flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding minced parsley1 minced onion or eschalot1 or grated cheese1 allowing #a tablespoonful of the former1 and half the quantity of the latter1 to the above proportion of eggs4 ,shrimps or oysters may also be added3 the latter should be scalded in their liquor1 and then bearded and cut into small pieces4 ,in making an omelet1 be particularly careful that it is not too thin1 and1 to avoid this1 do not make it in too large a frying-pan1 as the mixture would then spread too much1 and taste of the outside4 ,it should also not be greasy1 burnt1 or too much done1 and should be cooked over a gentle fire1 that the whole of the substance may be heated without drying up the outside4 ,omelets are sometimes served with gravy2 but this should never be poured over them1 but served in a tureen1 as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat1 instead of eating light and soft4 ,in making the gravy1 the flavour should not overpower that of the omelet1 and should be thickened with arrowroot or rice flour4 ,time4--,with #f eggs1 in a frying-pan #ah or #bj inches round1 #d to #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ham ,,omelet 7,a delicious ,breakfast ,dish47 #adeg4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #d oz4 of butter1 #a_/b saltspoonful of pepper1 #b tablespoonfuls of minced ham4 ,mode4--,mince the ham very finely1 without any fat1 and fry it for #b minutes in a little butter2 then make the batter for the omelet1 stir in the ham1 and proceed as directed in recipe ,no4 #adef4 ,do not add any salt to the batter1 as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavour to the omelet4 ,good lean bacon1 or tongue1 answers equally well for this dish2 but they must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter4 ,serve very hot and quickly1 without gravy4 ,time4--,from #d to #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,kidney ,,omelet 7,a favourite ,french dish47 #adeh4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 #a_/b saltspoonful of pepper1 #b sheep's kidneys1 or #b tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney1 #e oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,skin the kidneys1 cut them into small dice1 and toss them in a frying-pan1 in #a oz4 of butter1 over the fire for #b or #c minutes4 ,mix the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe ,no4 #adef1 and when the eggs are well whisked1 stir in the pieces of kidney4 ,make the butter hot in the frying-pan1 and when it bubbles1 pour in the omelet1 and fry it over a gentle fire from #d to #f minutes4 ,when the eggs are set1 fold the edges over1 so that the omelet assumes an oval form1 and be careful that it is not too much done3 to brown the top1 hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two1 or use a salamander until the desired colour is obtained1 but never turn an omelet in the pan4 ,slip it carefully on to a very hot dish1 or1 what is a much safer method1 put a dish on the omelet1 and turn the pan quickly over4 ,it should be served the instant it comes from the fire4 ,time4--#d to #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,plain ,,sweet ,,omelet4 #adei4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #d oz4 of butter1 #b oz4 of sifted sugar4 ,mode4--,break the eggs into a basin1 omitting the whites of #c2 whisk them well1 adding the sugar and #b oz4 of the butter1 which should be broken into small pieces1 and stir all these ingredients well together4 ,make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan1 and when it commences to bubble1 pour in the eggs1 c4 ,keep stirring them until they begin to set2 then turn the edges of the omelet over1 to make it an oval shape1 and finish cooking it4 ,to brown the top1 hold the pan before the fire1 or use a salamander1 and turn it carefully on to a very hot dish3 sprinkle sifted sugar over1 and serve4 ,time4--,from #d to #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,omelette ,,aux ,,confitures1 or ,,jam ,,omelet4 #adfj4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #d oz4 of butter1 #c tablespoonfuls of apricot1 strawberry1 or any jam that may be preferred4 ,mode4--,make the omelet by recipe ,no4 #adei1 only instead of doubling it over1 leave it flat in the pan4 ,when quite firm1 and nicely brown on one side1 turn it carefully on to a hot dish1 spread over the middle of it the jam1 and fold the omelet over on each side2 sprinkle sifted sugar over1 and serve very quickly4 ,a pretty dish of small omelets may be made by dividing the batter into #c or #d portions1 and frying them separately2 they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve1 and the omelets rolled over4 ,always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted sugar before being sent to table4 ,time4--#d to #f minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,omelette ,,souffl4 #adfa4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #e oz4 of pounded sugar1 flavouring of vanilla1 orange-flower water1 or lemon-rind1 #c oz4 of butter1 #a dessert-spoonful of rice-flour4 ,mode4--,separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs1 add to the former the sugar1 the rice-flour1 and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred1 and stir these ingredients well together4 ,whip the whites of the eggs1 mix them lightly with the batter1 and put the butter into a small frying-pan4 ,as soon as it begins to bubble1 pour the batter into it1 and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire2 and when the omelet is set1 turn the edges over to make it an oval shape1 and slip it on to a silver dish1 which has been previously well buttered4 ,put it in the oven1 and bake from #ab to #ae minutes2 sprinkle finely-powdered sugar over the souffl1 and serve it immediately4 ,time4--,about #d minutes in the pan2 to bake1 from #ab to #ae minutes4 ,average cost4 #as4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,bachelor',s ,,omelet4 #adfb4 ,,ingredients4--#b or #c eggs1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a teaspoonful of flour1 #a_/b teacupful of milk4 ,mode4--,make a thin cream of the flour and milk2 then beat up the eggs1 mix all together1 and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne4 ,melt the butter in a small frying-pan1 and1 when very hot1 pour in the batter4 ,let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire2 then sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion2 double the omelet dexterously1 and shake it out of the pan on to a hot dish4 ,a simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process1 substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs4 ,time4--#b minutes4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,orange ,,cream4 #adfc4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of isinglass1 #f large oranges1 #a lemon1 sugar to taste1 water1 #a_/b pint of good cream4 ,illustration3 ,,open ,,mould4 ,mode4--,squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon2 strain it1 and put it into a saucepan with the isinglass1 and sufficient water to make in all #a-a_/b pint4 ,rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind1 add it to the other ingredients1 and boil all together for about #aj minutes4 ,strain through a muslin bag1 and1 when cold1 beat up with it #a_/b pint of thick cream4 ,wet a mould1 or soak it in cold water2 pour in the cream1 and put it in a cool place to set4 ,if the weather is very cold1 #a oz4 of isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the juice and water4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #cs4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,orange ,,creams4 #adfd4 ,,ingredients4--#a ,seville orange1 #a tablespoonful of brandy1 #a_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 the yolks of #d eggs1 #a pint of cream4 ,mode4--,boil the rind of the ,seville orange until tender1 and beat it in a mortar to a pulp2 add to it the brandy1 the strained juice of the orange1 and the sugar1 and beat all together for about #aj minutes1 adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs4 ,bring the cream to the boiling-point1 and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients1 and beat the mixture till nearly cold2 put it into custard-cups1 place the cups in a deep dish of boiling water1 where let them remain till quite cold4 ,take the cups out of the water1 wipe them1 and garnish the tops of the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips4 ,time4--,altogether1 #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #as4 #g;d4 ,sufficient to make #g or #h creams4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,note4--,to render this dish more economical1 substitute milk for the cream1 but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm4 ,,seville ,,orange 7,citrus vulgaris74--,this variety1 called also bitter orange1 is of the same species as the sweet orange1 and grows in great abundance on the banks of the ,guadalquiver1 in ,andalusia1 whence this fruit is chiefly obtained4 ,in that part of ,spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges1 which form the chief wealth of the monasteries4 ,the pulp of the bitter orange is not eaten raw4 ,in the yellow rind1 separated from the white spongy substance immediately below it1 is contained an essential oil1 which is an agreeable warm aromatic1 much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange4 ,the best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this orange2 and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is distilled4 ,seville oranges are also preserved whole as a sweetmeat4 ,,orange ,,fritters4 #adfe4 ,,ingredients4--,for the batter1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #b eggs1 milk1 oranges1 hot lard or clarified dripping4 ,mode4--,make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour1 butter1 salt1 eggs1 and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency2 peel the oranges1 remove as much of the white skin as possible1 and divide each orange into eight pieces1 without breaking the thin skin1 unless it be to remove the pips2 dip each piece of orange in the batter4 ,have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping2 drop in the oranges1 and fry them a delicate brown from #h to #aj minutes4 ,when done1 lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire1 to drain away the greasy moisture1 and dish them on a white d'oyley2 sprinkle over them plenty of pounded sugar1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--#h to #aj minutes to fry the fritters2 #e minutes to drain them4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,a ,,pretty ,,dish ,,of ,,oranges4 #adff4 ,,ingredients4--#f large oranges1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a_/d pint of water1 #a_/b pint of cream1 #b tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,put the sugar and water into a saucepan1 and boil them until the sugar becomes brittle1 which may be ascertained by taking up a small quantity in a spoon1 and dipping it in cold water2 if the sugar is sufficiently boiled1 it will easily snap4 ,peel the oranges1 remove as much of the white pith as possible1 and divide them into nice-sized slices1 without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy pulp4 ,place the pieces of orange on small skewers1 dip them into the hot sugar1 and arrange them in layers round a plain mould1 which should be well oiled with the purest salad-oil4 ,the sides of the mould only should be lined with the oranges1 and the centre left open for the cream4 ,let the sugar become firm by cooling2 turn the oranges carefully out on a dish1 and fill the centre with whipped cream1 flavoured with any kind of liqueur1 and sweetened with pounded sugar4 ,this is an exceedingly ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the sugar4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #a mould4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,to ,,make ,,pancakes4 #adfg4 ,,ingredients4--,eggs1 flour1 milk2 to every egg allow #a oz4 of flour1 about #a gill of milk1 #a_/h saltspoonful of salt4 ,illustration3 ,,pancakes4 ,mode4--,ascertain that the eggs are fresh2 break each one separately in a cup2 whisk them well1 put them into a basin1 with the flour1 salt1 and a few drops of milk1 and beat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter2 then add by degrees the remainder of the milk4 ,the proportion of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs1 c4 c42 but the batter1 when ready for frying1 should be of the consistency of thick cream4 ,place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot2 let it be delicately clean1 or the pancakes will stick1 and1 when quite hot1 put into it a small piece of butter1 allowing about #a_/b oz4 to each pancake4 ,when it is melted1 pour in the batter1 about #a_/b teacupful to a pan #e inches in diameter1 and fry it for about #d minutes1 or until it is nicely brown on one side4 ,by only pouring in a small quantity of batter1 and so making the pancakes thin1 the necessity of turning them 7an operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks7 is obviated4 ,when the pancake is done1 sprinkle over it some pounded sugar1 roll it up in the pan1 and take it out with a large slice1 and place it on a dish before the fire4 ,proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish2 then send them quickly to table1 and continue to send in a further quantity1 as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately they come from the frying-pan4 ,the batter may be flavoured with a little grated lemon-rind1 or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them instead of sugar4 ,send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them4 ,to render the pancakes very light1 the yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately1 and the whites added the last thing to the batter before frying4 ,time4--from #d to #f minutes for a pancake that does not require turning2 from #f to #h minutes for a thicker one4 ,average cost1 for #c persons1 #f;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow #c eggs1 with the other ingredients in proportion1 for #c persons4 ,seasonable at any time1 but specially served on ,shrove ,tuesday4 ,,richer ,,pancakes4 #adfh4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #a pint of cream1 #a_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a glass of sherry1 #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 flour4 ,mode4--,ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh1 beat them well1 strain and mix with them the cream1 pounded sugar1 wine1 nutmeg1 and as much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary pancakes4 ,make the frying-pan hot1 wipe it with a clean cloth1 pour in sufficient batter to make a thin pancake1 and fry it for about #e minutes4 ,dish the pancakes piled one above the other1 strew sifted sugar between each1 and serve4 ,time4--,about #e minutes4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient to make #h pancakes4 ,seasonable at any time1 but specially served on ,shrove ,tuesday4 ,,peach ,,fritters4 #adfi4 ,,ingredients4--,for the batter3 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b oz4 of butter1 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt1 #b eggs1 milk2--peaches1 hot lard or clarified dripping4 ,mode4--,make a nice smooth1 batter in the same manner as directed in recipe ,no4 #acic1 and skin1 halve1 and stone the peaches1 which should be quite ripe2 dip them in the batter1 and fry the pieces in hot lard or clarified dripping1 which should be brought to the boiling-point before the peaches are put in4 ,from #h to #aj minutes will be required to fry them1 and1 when done1 drain them before the fire1 and dish them on a white d'oyley4 ,strew over plenty of pounded sugar1 and serve4 ,time4--,from #h to #aj minutes to fry the fritters1 #f minutes to drain them4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,peach4 ,,peach4--,the peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious of our fruits1 and are considered as varieties of the same species produced by cultivation4 ,the former is characterized by a very delicate down1 while the latter is smooth2 but1 as a proof of their identity as to species1 trees have borne peaches in one part and nectarines in another2 and even a single fruit has had down on one side and the other smooth4 ,the trees are almost exactly alike1 as well as the blossoms4 ,pliny states that the peach was originally brought from ,persia1 where it grows naturally1 from which the name of ,persica was bestowed upon it by the ,romans2 and some modern botanists apply this as the generic name1 separating them from ,amygdalus1 or ,almond1 to which ,linnaeus had united them4 ,although they are not tropical1 they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection3 hence they seldom ripen in this country1 in ordinary seasons1 without the use of walls or glass2 consequently1 they bear a high price4 ,in a good peach1 the flesh is firm1 the skin thin1 of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green next to the wall2 the pulp is yellowish1 full of highly-flavoured juice1 the fleshy part thick1 and the stone small4 ,too much down is a sign of inferior quality4 ,this fruit is much used at the dessert1 and makes a delicious preserve4 ,,pears ,a ,l',,allemande4 #adgj4 ,,ingredients4--#f to #h pears1 water1 sugar1 #b oz4 of butter1 the yolk of an egg1 #a_/b oz4 of gelatine4 ,mode4--,peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred1 and steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black2 put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them1 and boil them with the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely1 until tender2 then brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg1 sprinkle them with sifted sugar1 and arrange them on a dish4 ,add the gelatine to the syrup1 boil it up quickly for about #e minutes1 strain it over the pears1 and let it remain until set4 ,the syrup may be coloured with a little prepared cochineal1 which would very much improve the appearance of the dish4 ,time4--,from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour to stew the pears2 #e minutes to boil the syrup4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for a large dish4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,february4 ,,moulded ,,pears4 #adga4 ,,ingredients4--#d large pears or #f small ones1 #h cloves1 sugar to taste1 water1 a small piece of cinnamon1 #a_/d pint of raisin wine1 a strip of lemon-peel1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #a_/b oz4 of gelatine4 ,mode4--,peel and cut the pears into quarters2 put them into a jar with #c_/d pint of water1 cloves1 cinnamon1 and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely2 cover down the top of the jar1 and bake the pears in a gentle oven until perfectly tender1 but do not allow them to break4 ,when done1 lay the pears in a plain mould1 which should be well wetted1 and boil #a_/b pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine1 lemon-peel1 strained juice1 and gelatine4 ,let these ingredients boil quickly for #e minutes1 then strain the liquid warm over the pears2 put the mould in a cool place1 and when the jelly is firm1 turn it out on a glass dish4 ,time4--#b hours to bake the pears in a cool oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for a quart mould4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,february ,,pineapple ,,fritters4 7,an elegant ,dish47 #adgb4 ,,ingredients4--,a small pineapple1 a small wineglassful of brandy or liqueur1 #b oz4 of sifted sugar2 batter as for apple fritters ,no4 #acic4 ,mode4--,this elegant dish1 although it may appear extravagant1 is really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful4 ,we receive them now in such large quantities from the ,west ,indies1 that at times they may be purchased at an exceedingly low rate3 it would not1 of course1 be economical to use the pines which are grown in our ,english pineries for the purposes of fritters4 ,pare the pine with as little waste as possible1 cut it into rather thin slices1 and soak these slices in the above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for #d hours2 then make a batter the same as for apple fritters1 substituting cream for the milk1 and using a smaller quantity of flour2 and1 when this is ready1 dip in the pieces of pine1 and fry them in boiling lard from #e to #h minutes2 turn them when sufficiently brown on one side1 and1 when done1 drain them from the lard before the fire1 dish them on a white d'oyley1 strew over them sifted sugar1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--#e to #h minutes4 ,average cost1 when cheap and plentiful1 #as4 #f;d4 for the pine4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august4 ,,pineapple4--,the pineapple has not been known in ,europe above two hundred years1 and has not been cultivated in ,england much above a century4 ,it is stated that the first pineapples raised in ,europe were by ,m4 ,la ,cour1 of ,leyden1 about the middle of the #agth century2 and it is said to have been first cultivated in ,england by ,sir ,matthew ,decker1 of ,richmond4 ,in ,kensington ,palace1 there is a picture in which ,charles ,,ii4 is represented as receiving a pineapple from his gardener ,rose1 who is presenting it on his knees4 ,,plain ,,fritters4 #adgc4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of flour1 #c eggs1 #a_/c pint of milk4 ,illustration3 ,,star ,,fritter-,,mould4 ,mode4--,mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the milk2 stir in the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and then the remainder of the milk2 boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter1 and should it be found not quite thin enough1 add two or three tablespoonfuls more milk4 ,have ready a frying-pan1 with plenty of boiling lard in it2 drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time of the batter1 and fry the fritters a nice brown1 turning them when sufficiently cooked on one side4 ,drain them well from the greasy moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the fire2 dish them on a white d'oyley1 sprinkle over them sifted sugar1 and send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar4 ,time4--,from #f to #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,potato ,,fritters4 #adgd4 ,,ingredients4--#b large potatoes1 #d eggs1 #b tablespoonfuls of cream1 #b ditto of raisin or sweet wine1 #a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice1 #d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 hot lard4 ,illustration3 ,,scroll ,,fritter-,,mould4 ,mode4--,boil the potatoes1 and beat them up lightly with a fork1 but do not use a spoon1 as that would make them heavy4 ,beat the eggs well1 leaving out one of the whites2 add the other ingredients1 and beat all together for at least #bj minutes1 or until the batter is extremely light4 ,put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan1 and drop a tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it1 and fry the fritters a nice brown4 ,serve them with the following sauce3--,a glass of sherry mixed with the strained juice of a lemon1 and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely4 ,warm these ingredients1 and serve the sauce separately in a tureen4 ,the fritters should be neatly dished on a white d'oyley1 and pounded sugar sprinkled over them2 and they should be well drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being dished4 ,time4--,from #f to #h minutes4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,raspberry ,,cream4 #adge4 ,,ingredients4--#c_/d pint of milk1 #c_/d pint of cream1 #a-a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 raspberry jelly1 sugar to taste1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,illustration3 ,,raspberry ,,cream ,,mould4 ,mode4--,boil the milk1 cream1 and isinglass together for #a_/d hour1 or until the latter is melted1 and strain it through a hair sieve into a basin4 ,let it cool a little2 then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly1 which1 when melted1 would make #a_/c pint1 and stir well till the ingredients are thoroughly mixed4 ,if not sufficiently sweet1 add a little pounded sugar with the brandy2 whisk the mixture well until nearly cold1 put it into a well-oiled mould1 and set it in a cool place till perfectly set4 ,raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly1 but must be melted1 and rubbed through a sieve1 to free it from seeds3 in summer1 the juice of the fresh fruit may be used1 by slightly mashing it with a wooden spoon1 and sprinkling sugar over it2 the juice that flows from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream4 ,if the colour should not be very good1 a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to improve its appearance4 7,see coloured plate ,t#a47 ,time4--#a_/d hour to boil the cream and isinglass4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 and the best isinglass1 #cs4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable1 with jelly1 at any time4 ,note4--,strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner1 substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry4 ,,rice ,,blancmange4 #adgf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of ground rice1 #c oz4 of loaf sugar1 #a oz4 of fresh butter1 #a quart of milk1 flavouring of lemon-peel1 essence of almonds or vanilla1 or laurel-leaves4 ,mode4--,mix the rice to a smooth batter with about #a_/b pint of the milk1 and the remainder put into a saucepan1 with the sugar1 butter1 and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred2 bring the milk to the boiling-point1 quickly stir in the rice1 and let it boil for about #aj minutes1 or until it comes easily away from the saucepan1 keeping it well stirred the whole time4 ,grease a mould with pure salad-oil2 pour in the rice1 and let it get perfectly set1 when it should turn out quite easily2 garnish it with jam1 or pour round a compte of any kind of fruit1 just before it is sent to table4 ,this blancmange is better for being made the day before it is wanted1 as it then has time to become firm4 ,if laurel-leaves are used for flavouring1 steep #c of them in the milk1 and take them out before the rice is added3 about #h drops of essence of almonds1 or from #ab to #af drops of essence of vanilla1 would be required to flavour the above proportion of milk4 ,time4--,from #aj to #ae minutes to boil the rice4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice ,,croquettes4 #adgg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 #f oz4 of pounded sugar1 flavouring of vanilla1 lemon-peel1 or bitter almonds1 egg and bread crumbs1 hot lard4 ,mode4--,put the rice1 milk1 and sugar into a saucepan1 and let the former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried up2 and just before the rice is done1 stir in a few drops of essence of any of the above flavourings4 ,let the rice get cold2 then form it into small round balls1 dip them into yolk of egg1 sprinkle them with bread crumbs1 and fry them in boiling lard for about #aj minutes1 turning them about1 that they may get equally browned4 ,drain the greasy moisture from them1 by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or two2 pile them on a white d'oyley1 and send them quickly to table4 ,a small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each croquette1 which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour to swell the rice2 about #aj minutes to fry the croquettes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient to make #g or #h croquettes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice ,,fritters4 #adgh4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 #c oz4 of sugar1 #a oz4 of fresh butter #f oz4 of orange marmalade1 #d eggs4 ,mode4--,swell the rice in the milk1 with the sugar and butter1 over a slow fire until it is perfectly tender1 which will be in about #c_/d hour4 ,when the rice is done1 strain away the milk1 should there be any left1 and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs2 stir the whole over the fire until the eggs are set2 then spread the mixture on a dish to the thickness of about #a_/b inch1 or rather thicker4 ,when it is perfectly cold1 cut it into long strips1 dip them in a batter the same as for apple fritters1 and fry them a nice brown4 ,dish them on a white d'oyley1 strew sifted sugar over1 and serve quickly4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to swell the rice2 from #g to #aj minutes to fry the fritters4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make #g or #h fritters4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice ,,snowballs4 7,a pretty dish for ,juvenile ,suppers47 #adgi4 ,,ingredients4--#f oz4 of rice1 #a quart of milk1 flavouring of essence of almonds1 sugar to taste1 #a pint of custard made by recipe ,no4 #adbc4 ,mode4--,boil the rice in the milk1 with sugar and a flavouring of essence of almonds1 until the former is tender1 adding1 if necessary1 a little more milk1 should it dry away too much4 ,when the rice is quite soft1 put it into teacups1 or small round jars1 and let it remain until cold2 then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish1 pour over a custard made by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 and1 on the top of each ball place a small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly4 ,lemon-peel or vanilla may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds1 when either of these is preferred2 but the flavouring of the custard must correspond with that of the rice4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to swell the rice in the milk4 ,average cost1 with the custard1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f children4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rice ,,souffle4 #adhj4 ,,ingredients4--#c tablespoonfuls of ground rice1 #a pint of milk1 #e eggs1 pounded sugar to taste1 flavouring of lemon-rind1 vanilla1 coffee1 chocolate1 or anything that may be preferred1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut4 ,mode4--,mix the ground rice with #f tablespoonfuls of the milk quite smoothly1 and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and butter1 and keep stirring it over the fire for about #a_/d hour1 or until the mixture thickens4 ,separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs1 beat the former in a basin1 and stir to them the rice and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the souffl2 but add this latter ingredient as sparingly as possible1 as1 the less sugar there is used1 the lighter will be the souffl4 ,now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth or snow2 mix them with the other preparation1 and pour the whole into a souffl-dish1 and put it instantly into the oven2 bake it about #a_/b hour in a moderate oven2 take it out1 hold a salamander or hot shovel over the top1 sprinkle sifted sugar over it1 and send the souffl to table in the dish it was baked in1 either with a napkin pinned round1 or inclosed in a more ornamental dish4 ,the excellence of this fashionable dish entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs1 the manner of baking1 and the expedition with which it is sent to table4 ,souffls should be served instantly from the oven1 or they will sink1 and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,souffle4 #adha4 ,,ingredients4--#c heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour1 rice-flour1 arrowroot1 or tapioca1 #a pint of milk1 #e eggs1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 sifted sugar to taste1 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt flavouring4 ,mode4--,mix the potato-flour1 or whichever one of the above ingredients is used1 with a little of the milk2 put it into a saucepan1 with the remainder of the milk1 the butter1 salt1 and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely4 ,stir these ingredients over the fire until the mixture thickens2 then take it off the fire1 and let it cool a little4 ,separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs1 beat the latter1 and stir them into the souffl batter4 ,now whisk the whites of the eggs to the firmest possible froth1 for on this depends the excellence of the dish2 stir them to the other ingredients1 and add a few drops of essence of any flavouring that may be preferred2 such as vanilla1 lemon1 orange1 ginger1 c4 c4 ,pour the batter into a souffl-dish1 put it immediately into the oven1 and bake for about #a_/b hour2 then take it out1 put the dish into another more ornamental one1 such as is made for the purpose2 hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffl1 strew it with sifted sugar1 and send it instantly to table4 ,the secret of making a souffl well1 is to have the eggs well whisked1 but particularly the whites1 the oven not too hot1 and to send it to table the moment it comes from the oven4 ,if the souffl be ever so well made1 and it is allowed to stand before being sent to table1 its appearance and goodness will be entirely spoiled4 ,souffls may be flavoured in various ways1 but must be named accordingly4 ,vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherch flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour in the oven2 #b or #c minutes to hold the salamander over4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,snow ,,eggs1 or ,,oeufs ,a ,,la ,,neige4 7,a very pretty ,supper ,dish47 #adhb4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #c_/d pint of milk1 pounded sugar to taste1 flavouring of vanilla1 lemon-rind1 or orange-flower water4 ,mode4--,put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely1 and the rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,let this steep by the side of the fire for #a_/b hour1 when take out the peel2 separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs1 and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth1 or until there is no liquid remaining2 bring the milk to the boiling-point1 and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time1 and keep turning the eggs until sufficiently cooked4 ,then place them on a glass dish1 beat up the yolks of the eggs1 stir to them the milk1 add a little more sugar1 and strain this mixture into a jug2 place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water1 and stir it one way until the mixture thickens1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,pour this custard over the eggs1 when they should rise to the surface4 ,they make an exceedingly pretty addition to a supper1 and should be put in a cold place after being made4 ,when they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water1 it is not necessary to steep the milk4 ,a few drops of the essence of either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached4 ,in making the custard1 a little more flavouring and sugar should always be added4 ,time4--,about #b minutes to poach the whites2 #h minutes to stir the custard4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,stone ,,cream ,,of ,,tous ,,les ,,mois4 #adhc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of preserve1 #a pint of milk1 #b oz4 of lump sugar1 #a heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois1 #c drops of essence of cloves1 #c drops of almond-flavouring4 ,mode4--,place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish2 put the milk into a lined saucepan1 with the sugar1 and make it boil4 ,mix to a smooth batter the tous les mois1 with a very little cold milk2 stir it briskly into the boiling milk1 add the flavouring1 and simmer for #b minutes4 ,when rather cool1 but before turning solid1 pour the cream over the jam1 and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit4 ,time4--#b minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,strawberry ,,jelly4 #adhd4 ,,ingredients4--,strawberries1 pounded sugar2 to every pint of juice allow #a-a_/d oz4 of isinglass4 ,mode4--,pick the strawberries1 put them into a pan1 squeeze them well with a wooden spoon1 add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them nicely1 and let them remain for #a hour1 that the juice may be extracted2 then add #a_/b pint of water to every pint of juice4 ,strain the strawberry-juice and water through a bag2 measure it1 and to every pint allow #a-a_/d oz4 of isinglass1 melted and clarified in #a_/d pint of water4 ,mix this with the juice2 put the jelly into a mould1 and set the mould in ice4 ,a little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the flavour of the jelly1 if the fruit is very ripe2 but it must be well strained before it is put to the other ingredients1 or it will make the jelly muddy4 ,time4--#a hour to draw the juice4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #cs4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a-a_/b pint of jelly for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,swiss ,,cream4 #adhe4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of macaroons or #f small sponge-cakes1 sherry1 #a pint of cream1 #e oz4 of lump sugar1 #b large tablespoonfuls of arrowroot1 the rind of #a lemon1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #c tablespoonfuls of milk4 ,mode4--,lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish1 and pour over them as much sherry as will cover them1 or sufficient to soak them well4 ,put the cream into a lined saucepan1 with the sugar and lemon-rind1 and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is well flavoured1 when take out the lemon-rind4 ,mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cold milk2 add this to the cream1 and let it boil gently for about #c minutes1 keeping it well stirred4 ,take it off the fire1 stir till nearly cold1 when add the lemon-juice1 and pour the whole over the cakes4 ,garnish the cream with strips of angelica1 or candied citron cut thin1 or bright-coloured jelly or preserve4 ,this cream is exceedingly delicious1 flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon3 when this flavouring is used1 the sherry may be omitted1 and the mixture poured over the dry cakes4 ,time4--,about #a_/b hour to infuse the lemon-rind2 #e minutes to boil the cream4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,,syllabub4 #adhf4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of sherry or white wine1 #a_/b grated nutmeg1 sugar to taste1 #a-a_/b pint of milk4 ,mode4--,put the wine into a bowl1 with the grated nutmeg and plenty of pounded sugar1 and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up4 ,clouted cream may be laid on the top1 with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg and sugar2 and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk is put in4 ,in some counties1 cider is substituted for the wine3 when this is used1 brandy must always be added4 ,warm milk may be poured on from a spouted jug or teapot2 but it must be held very high4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,tipsy ,,cake4 #adhg4 ,,ingredients4--#a moulded sponge-or ,savoy-cake1 sufficient sweet wine or sherry to soak it1 #f tablespoonfuls of brandy1 #b oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a pint of rich custard4 ,illustration3 ,,tipsy ,,cake4 ,mode4--,procure a cake that is three or four days old1--either sponge1 ,savoy1 or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake4 ,cut the bottom of the cake level1 to make it stand firm in the dish2 make a small hole in the centre1 and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or sherry1 mixed with the above proportion of brandy1 to soak it nicely4 ,when the cake is well soaked1 blanch and cut the almonds into strips1 stick them all over the cake1 and pour round it a good custard1 made by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 allowing #h eggs instead of #e to the pint of milk4 ,the cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked1 and a whipped cream heaped over them1 the same as for trifles4 ,time4--,about #b hours to soak the cake4 ,average cost1 #ds4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a dish4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,almond4--,the almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than ,britain1 and is indigenous to the northern parts of ,africa and ,asia2 but it is now commonly cultivated in ,italy1 ,spain1 and the south of ,france4 ,it is not usually grown in ,britain1 and the fruit seldom ripens in this country3 it is much admired for the beauty of its blossoms4 ,in the form of its leaves and blossoms it strongly resembles the peach-tree1 and is included in the same genus by botanists2 but the fruit1 instead of presenting a delicious pulp like the peach1 shrivels up as it ripens1 and becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing the eatable kernel1 which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin4 ,it flowers early in the spring1 and produces fruit in ,august4 ,there are two sorts of almonds1--sweet and bitter2 but they are considered to be only varieties of the species2 and though the qualities of the kernels are very different1 they are not distinguishable by their appearance4 ,,an ,,easy ,,way ,,of ,,making ,a ,,tipsy ,,cake4 #adhh4 ,,ingredients4--#ab stale small sponge-cakes1 raisin wine1 #a_/b lb4 of jam1 #a pint of custard ,no4 #adbc4 ,mode4--,soak the sponge-cakes1 which should be stale 7on this account they should be cheaper71 in a little raisin wine2 arrange them on a deep glass dish in four layers1 putting a layer of jam between each1 and pour round them a pint of custard1 made by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 decorating the top with cut preserved fruit4 ,time4--#b hours to soak the cakes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a dish4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,trifle4 #adhi4 ,,ingredients4--,for the whip1 #a pint of cream1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 the whites of #b eggs1 a small glass of sherry or raisin wine4 ,for the trifle1 #a pint of custard1 made with #h eggs to a pint of milk2 #f small sponge-cakes1 or #f slices of sponge-cake2 #ab macaroons1 #b dozen ratafias1 #b oz4 of sweet almonds1 the grated rind of #a lemon1 a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam1 #a_/b pint of sherry or sweet wine1 #f tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,illustration3 ,,trifle4 ,mode4--,the whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the day before it is required for table1 as the flavour is better1 and it is much more solid than when prepared the same day4 ,put into a large bowl the pounded sugar1 the whites of the eggs1 which should be beaten to a stiff froth1 a glass of sherry or sweet wine1 and the cream4 ,whisk these ingredients well in a cool place1 and take off the froth with a skimmer as fast as it rises1 and put it on a sieve to drain2 continue the whisking till there is sufficient of the whip1 which must be put away in a cool place to drain4 ,the next day1 place the sponge-cakes1 macaroons1 and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish2 pour over them #a_/b pint of sherry or sweet wine1 mixed with #f tablespoonfuls of brandy1 and1 should this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient1 add a little more1 as the cakes should be well soaked4 ,over the cakes put the grated lemon-rind1 the sweet almonds1 blanched and cut into strips1 and a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam4 ,make a good custard by recipe ,no4 #adbc1 using #h instead of #e eggs to the pint of milk1 and let this cool a little2 then pour it over the cakes1 c4 ,the whip being made the day previously1 and the trifle prepared1 there remains nothing to do now but heap the whip lightly over the top3 this should stand as high as possible1 and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly1 crystallized sweetmeats1 or flowers2 the small coloured comfits are sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle1 but they are now considered rather old-fashioned4 7,see coloured plate1 ,v#a47 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #es4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a trifle4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,vanilla ,,cream4 #adij4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of milk1 the yolks of #h eggs1 #f oz4 of sugar1 #a oz4 of isinglass1 flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla4 ,illustration3 ,,vanilla-,,cream ,,mould4 ,mode4--,put the milk and sugar into a saucepan1 and let it get hot over a slow fire2 beat up the yolks of the eggs1 to which add gradually the sweetened milk2 flavour the whole with essence of vanilla1 put the mixture into a jug1 and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture thickens1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will be full of lumps4 ,take it off the fire2 stir in the isinglass1 which should be previously dissolved in about #a_/d pint of water1 and boiled for #b or #c minutes2 pour the cream into an oiled mould1 put it in a cool place to set1 and turn it out carefully on a dish4 ,instead of using the essence of vanilla1 a pod may be boiled in the milk instead1 until the flavour is well extracted4 ,a pod1 or a pod and a half1 will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to stir the mixture4 ,average cost1 with the best isinglass1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to fill a quart mould4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,vanille or ,,vanilla1 is the fruit of the vanillier1 a parasitical herbaceous plant1 which flourishes in ,brazil1 ,mexico1 and ,peru4 ,the fruit is a long capsule1 thick and fleshy4 ,certain species of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour4 ,vanilla is principally imported from ,mexico4 ,the capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity4 ,the essence is the form in which it is used generally and most conveniently4 ,its properties are stimulating and exciting4 ,it is in daily use for ices1 chocolates1 and flavouring confections generally4 ,,victoria ,,sandwiches4 #adia4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs2 their weight in pounded sugar1 butter1 and flour2 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt1 a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 dredge in the flour and pounded sugar2 stir these ingredients well together1 and add the eggs1 which should be previously thoroughly whisked4 ,when the mixture has been well beaten for about #aj minutes1 butter a ,yorkshire-pudding tin1 pour in the batter1 and bake it in a moderate oven for #bj minutes4 ,let it cool1 spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve1 place over it the other half of the cake1 press the pieces slightly together1 and then cut it into long finger-pieces2 pile them in crossbars on a glass dish1 and serve4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,whipped ,,cream1 for putting on ,trifles1 serving in ,glasses1 c4 #adib4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of cream allow #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 #a glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine1 the rind of #a_/b lemon1 the white of #a egg4 ,illustration3 ,,pastry ,,leaf4 ,mode4--,rub the sugar on the lemon-rind1 and pound it in a mortar until quite fine1 and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff2 put the cream into a large bowl1 with the sugar1 wine1 and beaten egg1 and whip it to a froth2 as fast as the froth rises1 take it off with a skimmer1 and put it on a sieve to drain1 in a cool place4 ,this should be made the day before it is wanted1 as the whip is then so much firmer4 ,the cream should be whipped in a cool place1 and in summer1 over ice1 if it is obtainable4 ,a plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish1 and garnished with strips of angelica1 or pastry leaves1 or pieces of bright-coloured jelly3 it makes a very pretty addition to the supper-table4 ,time4--,about #a hour to whip the cream4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #a dish or #a trifle4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,whipped ,,syllabubs4 #adic4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of cream1 #a_/d pint of sherry1 half that quantity of brandy1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 a little grated nutmeg1 #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 whipped cream the same as for trifle ,no4 #adhi4 ,mode4--,mix all the ingredients together1 put the syllabub into glasses1 and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream1 made in the same manner as for trifle ,no4 #adhi4 ,solid syllabub is made by whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth1 and putting it in the glasses1 without the whipped cream at the top4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient to fill #h or #i glasses4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,the ,,cure',s ,,omelet4 ,every one knows1 says ,brillat ,savarin1 in his ,physiology of ,taste1 that for twenty years ,madame ,rcamier was the most beautiful woman in ,paris4 ,it is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable1 and took a great interest in every benevolent work4 ,wishing to consult the ,cur of ---- respecting the working of an institution1 she went to his house at five o'clock in the afternoon1 and was much astonished at finding him already at his dinner-table4 ,madame ,rcamier wished to retire1 but the ,cur would not hear of it4 ,a neat white cloth covered the table2 some good old wine sparkled in a crystal decanter2 the porcelain was of the best2 the plates had heaters of boiling water beneath them2 a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in attendance4 ,the repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury4 ,the crawfish-soup had just been removed1 and there was on the table a salmon-trout1 an omelet1 and a salad4 ',my dinner will tell you1' said the worthy ,cur1 with a smile1 'that it is fast-day1 according to our ,church's regulations4' ,madame ,rcamier and her host attacked the trout1 the sauce served with which betrayed a skilful hand1 the countenance of the ,cur the while showing satisfaction4 ,and now they fell upon the omelet1 which was round1 sufficiently thick1 and cooked1 so to speak1 to a hair's-breadth4 ,as the spoon entered the omelet1 a thick rich juice issued from it1 pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell2 the dish became full of it2 and our fair friend owns that1 between the perfume and the sight1 it made her mouth water4 ',it is an omelette au thon' 7that is to say1 a tunny omelet71 said the ,cur1 noticing1 with the greatest delight1 the emotion of ,madame ,rcamier1 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it4' ',it surprises me not at all1' returned the beauty2 'never has so enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables4' ',my cook understands them well1 ,i think4' ',yes1' added ,madame1 ',i never ate anything so delightful4' ,then came the salad1 which ,savarin recommends to all who place confidence in him4 ,it refreshes without exciting2 and he has a theory that it makes people younger4 ,amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived4 ,it consisted of three apples1 cheese1 and a plate of preserves2 and then upon a little round table was served the ,mocha coffee1 for which ,france has been1 and is1 so justly famous4 ',i never1' said the ,cur1 'take spirits2 ,i always offer liqueurs to my guests but reserve the use of them1 myself1 to my old age1 if it should please ,providence to grant me that4' ,finally1 the charming ,madame ,rcamier took her leave1 and told all her friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of4 ,and ,brillat ,savarin1 in his capacity as the ,layard of the concealed treasures of ,gastronomia1 has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity the details of the preparation of which so much had been said1 and which he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable4 ,here follows the recipe3-- ,,omelette ,,au ,,thon4 #adid4 ,take1 for #f persons1 the roes of #b carp2 ,footnote3 ,an ,american writer says he has followed this recipe1 substituting pike1 shad1 c41 in the place of carp1 and can recommend all these also1 with a quiet conscience4 ,any fish1 indeed1 may be used with success4 bleach them1 by putting them1 for #e minutes1 in boiling water slightly salted4 ,take a piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg1 to which add a small shalot already chopped2 hash up together the roe and the tunny1 so as to mix them well1 and throw the whole into a saucepan1 with a sufficient quantity of very good butter3 whip it up until the butter is melted6 ,this constitutes the specialty of the omelet4 ,take a second piece of butter1 discrtion1 mix it with parsley and herbs1 place it in a long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet2 squeeze the juice of a lemon over it1 and place it on hot embers4 ,beat up #ab eggs 7the fresher the better72 throw up the saut of roe and tunny1 stirring it so as to mix all well together2 then make your omelet in the usual manner1 endeavouring to turn it out long1 thick1 and soft4 ,spread it carefully on the dish prepared for it1 and serve at once4 ,this dish ought to be reserved for recherch djeners1 or for assemblies where amateurs meet who know how to eat well2 washed down with a good old wine1 it will work wonders4 ,note4--,the roe and the tunny must be beaten up 7saut7 without allowing them to boil1 to prevent their hardening1 which would prevent them mixing well with the eggs4 ,your dish should be hollowed towards the centre1 to allow the gravy to concentrate1 that it may be helped with a spoon4 ,the dish ought to be slightly heated1 otherwise the cold china will extract all the heat from the omelet4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,preserves1 ,,confectionary1 ,,ices1 ,,and ,,dessert ,,dishes4 ,,preserves4 #adie4 ,from the nature of vegetable substances1 and chiefly from their not passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies1 the mode of preserving them is somewhat different1 although the general principles are the same4 ,all the means of preservation are put in practice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables1 according to the nature of the species1 the climate1 the uses to which they are applied1 c4 ,some are dried1 as nuts1 raisins1 sweet herbs1 c42 others are preserved by means of sugar1 such as many fruits whose delicate juices would be lost by drying2 some are preserved by means of vinegar1 and chiefly used as condiments or pickles2 a few also by salting1 as ,french beans2 while others are preserved in spirits4 ,we have1 however1 in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving fruits4 ,fruit is a most important item in the economy of health2 the epicurean can scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it2 therefore1 as it is so invaluable1 when we cannot have it fresh1 we must have it preserved4 ,it has long been a desideratum to preserve fruits by some cheap method1 yet by such as would keep them fit for the various culinary purposes1 as making tarts and other similar dishes4 ,the expense of preserving them with sugar is a serious objection2 for1 except the sugar is used in considerable quantities1 the success is very uncertain4 ,sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable in many fruits3 these which are preserved in this manner are chiefly intended for the dessert4 ,fruits intended for preservation should be gathered in the morning1 in dry weather1 with the morning sun upon them1 if possible2 they will then have their fullest flavour1 and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any other time4 ,until fruit can be used1 it should be placed in the dairy1 an ice-house1 or a refrigerator4 ,in an icehouse it will remain fresh and plump for several days4 ,fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed1 and be of no service for preserves4 #adif4 ,having secured the first and most important contribution to the manufacture of preserves1--the fruit1 the next consideration is the preparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended2 and this requires much care4 ,in the confectioner's art there is a great nicety in proportioning the degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly to each particular case2 and they know this by signs1 and express it by certain technical terms4 ,but to distinguish these properly requires very great attention and considerable experience4 ,the principal thing to be acquainted with is the fact1 that1 in proportion as the syrup is longer boiled1 its water will become evaporated1 and its consistency will be thicker4 ,great care must be taken in the management of the fire1 that the syrup does not boil over1 and that the boiling is not carried to such an extent as to burn the sugar4 #adig4 ,the first degree of consistency is called the thread1 which is subdivided into the little and great thread4 ,if you dip the finger into the syrup and apply it to the thumb1 the tenacity of the syrup will1 on separating the finger and thumb1 afford a thread1 which shortly breaks3 this is the little thread4 ,if the thread1 from the greater tenacity1 and1 consequently1 greater strength of the syrup1 admits of a greater extension of the finger and thumb1 it is called the great thread4 ,there are half a dozen other terms and experiments for testing the various thickness of the boiling sugar towards the consistency called caramel2 but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner4 ,a solution of sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar 7the best sugar is the most economical for preserves7 in one of water1 and boiling this a little1 affords a syrup of the right degree of strength1 and which neither ferments nor crystallizes4 ,this appears to be the degree called smooth by the confectioners1 and is proper to be used for the purposes of preserves4 ,the syrup employed should sometimes be clarified1 which is done in the following manner3--,dissolve #b lbs4 of loaf sugar in a pint of water2 add to this solution the white of an egg1 and beat it well4 ,put the preserving-pan upon the fire with the solution2 stir it with a wooden spatula1 and1 when it begins to swell and boil up1 throw in some cold water or a little oil1 to damp the boiling2 for1 as it rises suddenly1 if it should boil over1 it would take fire1 being of a very inflammable nature4 ,let it boil up again2 then take it off1 and remove carefully the scum that has risen4 ,boil the solution again1 throw in a little more cold water1 remove the scum1 and so on for three or four times successively2 then strain it4 ,it is considered to be sufficiently boiled when some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil4 #adih4 ,although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation1 and is1 in fact1 the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous stage of that process1 yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sufficient to constitute a very strong syrup3 hence1 syrups are used to preserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they would undergo if left to themselves4 ,before sugar was in use1 honey was employed to preserve many vegetable productions1 though this substance has now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane4 #adii4 ,the fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are1 apricots1 peaches1 nectarines1 apples1 greengages1 plums of all kinds1 and pears4 ,as an example1 take some apricots not too ripe1 make a small slit at the stem end1 and push out the stone2 simmer them in water till they are softened and about half done1 and afterwards throw them into cold water4 ,when they have cooled1 take them out and drain them4 ,put the apricots into the pie-serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them2 let them boil up three or four times1 and then skim them2 remove them from the fire1 pour them into an earthen pan1 and let them cool till next day4 ,boil them up three days successively1 skimming each time1 and they will then be finished and in a state fit to be put into pots for use4 ,after each bailing1 it is proper to examine into the state of the syrup when cold2 if too thin1 it will bear additional boiling2 if too thick1 it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard4 ,the reason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into an earthen pan is1 that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper1 of which the preserving-pans are usually made4 ,from this example the process of preserving fruits by syrup will be easily comprehended4 ,the first object is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water1 in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may penetrate through its substance4 #aejj4 ,many fruits1 when preserved by boiling1 lose much of their peculiar and delicate flavour1 as1 for instance1 pine-apples2 and this inconvenience may1 in some instances1 be remedied by preserving them without heat4 ,cut the fruit in slices about one fifth of an inch thick1 strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a jar1 and put the slices on it4 ,put more sugar on this1 and then another layer of the slices1 and so on till the jar is full4 ,place the jar with the fruit up to the neck in boiling water1 and keep it there till the sugar is completely dissolved1 which may take half an hour1 removing the scum as it rises4 ,lastly1 tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar1 or cork and wax it4 #aeja4 ,any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into dry preserves1 by first draining them from the syrup1 and then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven1 adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar1 which will gradually penetrate the fruit1 while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate4 ,they should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve1 and turned every six or eight hours1 fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are turned4 ,afterwards1 they are to be kept in a dry situation1 in drawers or boxes4 ,currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner1 in bunches1 are extremely elegant1 and have a fine flavour4 ,in this way it is1 also1 that orange and lemon chips are preserved4 #aejb4 ,marmalades1 jams1 and fruit pastes are of the same nature1 and are now in very general request4 ,they are prepared without difficulty1 by attending to a very few directions2 they are somewhat expensive1 but may be kept without spoiling for a considerable time4 ,marmalades and jams differ little from each other3 they are preserves of a half-liquid consistency1 made by boiling the pulp of fruits1 and sometimes part of the rinds1 with sugar4 ,the appellation of marmalade is applied to those confitures which are composed of the firmer fruits1 as pineapples or the rinds of oranges2 whereas jams are made of the more juicy berries1 such as strawberries1 raspberries1 currants1 mulberries1 c4 ,fruit pastes are a kind of marmalades1 consisting of the pulp of fruits1 first evaporated to a proper consistency1 and afterwards boiled with sugar4 ,the mixture is then poured into a mould1 or spread on sheets of tin1 and subsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the state of a paste4 ,from a sheet of this paste1 strips may be cut and formed into any shape that may be desired1 as knots1 rings1 c4 ,jams require the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade2 the slightest degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste1 and if they are not boiled sufficiently1 they will not keep4 ,that they may keep1 it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar4 #aejc4 ,in all the operations for preserve-making1 when the preserving-pan is used1 it should not be placed on the fire1 but on a trivet1 unless the jam is made on a hot plate1 when this is not necessary4 ,if the pan is placed close on to the fire1 the preserve is very liable to burn1 and the colour and flavour be consequently spoiled4 #aejd4 ,fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with sugar1 concentrated1 by boiling1 to such a consistency that the liquid1 upon cooling1 assumes the form of a tremulous jelly4 #aeje4 ,before fruits are candied1 they must first be boiled in syrup1 after which they are taken out and dried on a stove1 or before the fire2 the syrup is then to be concentrated1 or boiled to a candy height1 and the fruit dipped in it1 and again laid on the stove to dry and candy3 they are then to be put into boxes1 and kept dry4 #aejf4 ,conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform mass with refined sugar1 and they are intended to preserve the virtues and properties of recent flowers1 leaves1 roots1 peels1 or fruits1 unaltered1 and as near as possible to what they were when fresh gathered1 and to give them an agreeable taste4 #aejg4 ,the last-mentioned1 but not the least-important preparation of fruit1 is the compte1 a confiture made at the moment of need1 and with much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves4 ,they are most wholesome things1 suitable to most stomachs which cannot accommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar3 they are the happy medium1 and far better than ordinary stewed fruit4 ,,confectionary4 #aejh4 ,in speaking of confectionary1 it should be remarked that all the various preparations above named come1 strictly speaking1 under that head2 for the various fruits1 flowers1 herbs1 roots1 and juices1 which1 when boiled with sugar1 were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as for sweetmeats1 were called confections1 from the ,latin word conficere1 'to make up2' but the term confectionary embraces a very large class indeed of sweet food1 many kinds of which should not be attempted in the ordinary cuisine4 ,the thousand and one ornamental dishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be purchased from the confectioner3 they cannot profitably be made at home4 ,apart from these1 cakes1 biscuits1 and tarts1 c41 the class of sweetmeats called confections may be thus classified3--#a4 ,liquid confects1 or fruits either whole or in pieces1 preserved by being immersed in a fluid transparent syrup2 as the liquid confects of apricots1 green citrons1 and many foreign fruits4 #b4 ,dry confects are those which1 after having been boiled in the syrup1 are taken out and put to dry in an oven1 as citron and orange-peel1 c4 #c4 ,marmalade1 jams1 and pastes1 a kind of soft compounds made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable substances1 beat up with sugar or honey2 such as oranges1 apricots1 pears1 c4 #d4 ,jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with sugar to a pretty thick consistency1 so as1 upon cooling1 to form a trembling jelly2 as currant1 gooseberry1 apple jelly1 c4 #e4 ,conserves are a kind of dry confects1 made by beating up flowers1 fruits1 c41 with sugar1 not dissolved4 #f4 ,candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been boiled in the syrup4 ,,dessert ,,dishes4 #aeji4 ,with moderns the dessert is not so profuse1 nor does it hold the same relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients1--the ,romans more especially4 ,on ivory tables they would spread hundreds of different kinds of raw1 cooked1 and preserved fruits1 tarts and cakes1 as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which the guests were satiated4 ,however1 as late as the reigns of our two last ,georges1 fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts4 ,the dessert certainly repays1 in its general effect1 the expenditure upon it of much pains2 and it may be said1 that if there be any poetry at all in meals1 or the process of feeding1 there is poetry in the dessert1 the materials for which should be selected with taste1 and1 of course1 must depend1 in a great measure1 upon the season4 ,pines1 melons1 grapes1 peaches1 nectarines1 plums1 strawberries1 apples1 pears1 oranges1 almonds1 raisins1 figs1 walnuts1 filberts1 medlars1 cherries1 c4 c41 all kinds of dried fruits1 and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and biscuits1 make up the dessert1 together with the most costly and recherch wines4 ,the shape of the dishes varies at different periods1 the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes on stems4 ,the patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion2 some persons selecting china1 chaste in pattern and colour2 others1 elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems1 with gilt edges4 ,the beauty of the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance the splendour of the plate4 ,the general mode of putting a dessert on table1 now the elegant tazzas are fashionable1 is1 to place them down the middle of the table1 a tall and short dish alternately2 the fresh fruits being arranged on the tall dishes1 and dried fruits1 bon-bons1 c41 on small round or oval glass plates4 ,the garnishing needs especial attention1 as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with nicely-arranged foliage is very charming4 ,the garnish par excellence for dessert is the ice-plant2 its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvellous effect in the height of summer1 giving a most inviting sense of coolness to the fruit it encircles4 ,the double-edged mallow1 strawberry1 and vine leaves have a pleasing effect2 and for winter desserts1 the bay1 cuba1 and laurel are sometimes used4 ,in town1 the expense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great1 but paper and composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price4 ,mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish4 ,this mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of the fruit3 for instance1 a pine in the centre of the dish1 surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colours1 mixed with pears1 rosy-cheeked apples1 all arranged with a due regard to colour1 have a very good effect4 ,again1 apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes1 hanging from the border of the dish in a nglig sort of manner1 with a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples4 ,a dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and preserved fruits and confections4 ,the candied fruits may be purchased at a less cost than they can be manufactured at home4 ,they are preserved abroad in most ornamental and elegant forms4 ,and since1 from the facilities of travel1 we have become so familiar with the tables of the ,french1 chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts4 ,,ices4 #eaj4 ,ices are composed1 it is scarcely necessary to say1 of congealed cream or water1 combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouring ingredients1 or more generally with the juices of fruits4 ,at desserts1 or at some evening parties1 ices are scarcely to be dispensed with4 ,the principal utensils required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs1 freezing-pots1 spaddles1 and a cellaret4 ,the tub must be large enough to contain about a bushel of ice1 pounded small1 when brought out of the ice-house1 and mixed very carefully with either salt1 nitre1 or soda4 ,the freezing-pot is best made of pewter4 ,if it be of tin1 as is sometimes the case1 the congelation goes on too rapidly in it for the thorough intermingling of its contents1 on which the excellence of the ice greatly depends4 ,the spaddle is generally made of copper1 kept bright and clean4 ,the cellaret is a tin vessel1 in which ices are kept for a short time from dissolving4 ,the method to be pursued in the freezing process must be attended to4 ,when the ice-tub is prepared with fresh-pounded ice and salt1 the freezing-pot is put into it up to its cover4 ,the articles to be congealed are then poured into it and covered over2 but to prevent the ingredients from separating and the heaviest of them from falling to the bottom of the mould1 it is requisite to turn the freezing-pot round and round by the handle1 so as to keep its contents moving until the congelation commences4 ,as soon as this is perceived 7the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for the purpose of noticing when freezing takes place71 the cover is immediately closed over it1 ice is put upon it1 and it is left in this state till it is served4 ,the use of the spaddle is to stir up and remove from the sides of the freezing pot the cream1 which in the shaking may have washed against it1 and by stirring it in with the rest1 to prevent waste of it occurring4 ,any negligence in stirring the contents of the freezing-pot before congelation takes place1 will destroy the whole3 either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficiently sweetened1 or lumps are formed1 which disfigure and discolour it4 #aeaa4 ,the aged1 the delicate1 and children should abstain from ices or iced beverages2 even the strong and healthy should partake of them in moderation4 ,they should be taken immediately after the repast1 or some hours after1 because the taking these substances during the process of digestion is apt to provoke indisposition4 ,it is necessary1 then1 that this function should have scarcely commenced1 or that it should be completely finished1 before partaking of ices4 ,it is also necessary to abstain from them when persons are very warm1 or immediately after taking violent exercise1 as in some cases they have produced illnesses which have ended fatally4 ,do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices1 which all the fair sex are passionately fond of8--,to ,catherine de' ,medici4 ,will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by the instigator of ,st4 ,bartholomew 8 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,to ,,make ,,syrup ,,for ,,compotes1 c4 #aeab4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a-a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together for #a_/d hour1 carefully removing the scum as it rises3 the syrup is then ready for the fruit4 ,the articles boiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time1 it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately4 ,a larger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,sugar ,,or ,,syrup4 #aeac4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/b pint of water and #a_/b the white of an egg4 ,mode4--,put the sugar1 water1 and the white of the egg1 which should1 be well beaten1 into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan2 and do not put it on the fire till the sugar is dissolved4 ,then place it on the fire1 and when it boils1 throw in a teacupful of cold water1 and do not stir the sugar after this is added4 ,bring it to the boiling-point again1 and then place the pan by the side of the fire1 for the preparation to settle4 ,remove all the scum1 and the sugar will be ready for use4 ,the scum should be placed on a sieve1 so that what syrup runs from it may be boiled up again3 this must also be well skimmed4 ,time4--#bj minutes for the sugar to dissolve2 #e minutes to boil4 ,note4--,the above two recipes are those used in the preparation of dishes usually made at home4 ,there are many degrees of boiling sugar1 which process requires great care1 attention1 and experience4 ,caramel sugar1 which makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats1 is difficult to prepare1 and is best left to an experienced confectioner4 ,we give the recipe1 for those of our readers who care to attempt the operation4 ,,to ,,boil ,,sugar ,,to ,,caramel4 #aead4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of lump sugar allow #a gill of spring water4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a clear fire1 skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils4 ,keep it boiling until the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water4 ,if it remains hard1 the sugar has attained the right degree2 then squeeze in a little lemon-juice1 and let it remain an instant on the fire4 ,set the pan into another of cold water1 and the caramel is then ready for use4 ,the insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with this sugar1 which with a fork should be spread over them in fine threads or network4 ,a dish of light pastry1 tastefully arranged1 looks very prettily with this sugar spun lightly over it4 ,the sugar must be carefully watched1 and taken up the instant it is done4 ,unless the cook is very experienced and thoroughly understands her business1 it is scarcely worth while to attempt to make this elaborate ornament1 as it may be purchased quite as economically at a confectioner's1 if the failures in the preparation are taken into consideration4 ,,compote ,,of ,,apples4 7,soyer's ,recipe1--a ,dessert ,dish47 #aeae4 ,,ingredients4--#f ripe apples1 #a lemon1 #a_/b lb4 of lump sugar1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,illustration3 ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,apples4 ,mode4--,select the apples of a moderate size1 peel them1 cut them in halves1 remove the cores1 and rub each piece over with a little lemon4 ,put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan1 and let them boil until forming a thickish syrup1 when lay in the apples with the rind of the lemon cut thin1 and the juice of the same4 ,let the apples simmer till tender2 then take them out very carefully1 drain them on a sieve1 and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes4 ,when both are cold1 arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish1 pour over the syrup1 and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron4 ,smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner3 they should not be divided in half1 but peeled and the cores pushed out with a vegetable-cutter4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the sugar and water together2 from #ae to #be minutes to simmer the apples4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,march4 ,,apple ,,ginger4 7,a ,dessert ,dish47 #aeaf ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of any kind of hard apples1 #b lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 #a oz4 of tincture of ginger4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup1 adding the ginger when it boils up4 ,pare1 core1 and cut the apples into pieces2 dip them in cold water to preserve the colour1 and boil them in the syrup until transparent2 but be careful not to let them break4 ,put the pieces of apple into jars1 pour over the syrup1 and carefully exclude the air1 by well covering them4 ,it will remain good some time1 if kept in a dry place4 ,time4--,from #e to #aj minutes to boil the syrup2 about #a_/b hour to simmer the apples4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september1 ,october1 or ,november4 ,,apple ,,jam4 #aeag4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit weighed after being pared1 cored1 and sliced1 allow #c_/d lb4 of preserving-sugar1 the grated rind of #a lemon1 the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,peel the apples1 core and slice them very thin1 and be particular that they are all the same sort4 ,put them into a jar1 stand this in a saucepan of boiling water1 and let the apples stew until quite tender4 ,previously to putting the fruit into the jar1 weigh it1 to ascertain the proportion of sugar that may be required4 ,put the apples into a preserving-pan1 crush the sugar to small lumps1 and add it1 with the grated lemon-rind and juice1 to the apples4 ,simmer these over the fire for #a_/b hour1 reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmer properly2 remove the scum as it rises1 and when the jam is done1 put it into pots for use4 ,place a piece of oiled paper over the jam1 and to exclude the air1 cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white of an egg1 and stretched over the top4 ,this jam will keep good for a long time4 ,time4--,about #b hours to stew in the jar2 #a_/b hour to boil after the jam begins to simmer4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #fs4 ,sufficient4--#g or #h lbs4 of apples for #f pots of jam4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september1 ,october1 or ,november4 ,,apple ,,jelly4 ,i4 #aeah4 ,,ingredients4--,to #f lbs4 of apples allow #c pints of water2 to every quart of juice allow #b lbs4 of loaf sugar2--the juice of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,pare1 core1 and cut the apples into slices1 and put them into a jar1 with water in the above proportion4 ,place them in a cool oven1 with the jar well covered1 and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and the apples are quite soft1 strain them through a jelly-bag4 ,to every quart of juice allow #b lbs4 of loaf sugar1 which should be crushed to small lumps1 and put into a preserving-pan with the juice4 ,boil these together for rather more than #a_/b hour1 remove the scum as it rises1 add the lemon-juice just before it is done1 and put the jelly into pots for use4 ,this preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes1 and may be turned out for dessert4 ,time4--,the apples to be put in the oven over-night1 and left till morning2 rather more than #a_/b hour to boil the jelly4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #f small pots of jelly4 ,seasonable1--,this should be made in ,september1 ,october1 or ,november4 ,,ii4 #aeai4 ,,ingredients4--,apples1 water3 to every pint of syrup allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pare and cut the apples into pieces1 remove the cores1 and put them in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them4 ,let them boil for an hour2 then drain the syrup from them through a hair sieve or jelly-bag1 and measure the juice2 to every pint allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 and boil these together for #c_/d hour1 removing every particle of scum as it rises1 and keeping the jelly well stirred1 that it may not burn4 ,a little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples1 and a small quantity of strained lemon-juice may be put in the jelly just before it is done1 when the flavour is liked4 ,this jelly may be ornamented with preserved greengages1 or any other preserved fruit1 and will turn out very prettily for dessert4 ,it should be stored away in small pots4 ,time4--#a hour to boil the fruit and water2 #c_/d hour to boil the juice with the sugar4 ,average cost1 for #f lbs4 of apples1 with the other ingredients in proportion1 #cs4 ,sufficient for #f small pots of jelly4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september1 ,october1 or ,november4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,apples ,,in ,,quarters1 in imitation of ,ginger4 #aebj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of apples allow #c_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a-a_/b oz4 of the best white ginger2 #a oz4 of ginger to every #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,peel1 core1 and quarter the apples1 and put the fruit1 sugar1 and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar1 and let them remain for #b days2 then infuse #a oz4 of ginger in #a_/b pint of boiling water1 and cover it closely1 and let it remain for #a day3 this quantity of ginger and water is for #c lbs4 of apples1 with the other ingredients in proportion4 ,put the apples1 c41 into a preserving-pan with the water strained from the ginger1 and boil till the apples look clear and the syrup is rich1 which will be in about an hour4 ,the rind of a lemon may be added just before the apples have finished boiling2 and great care must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into the jars4 ,serve on glass dishes for dessert4 ,time4--#b days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar1 c42 #a day to infuse the ginger2 about #a hour to boil the apples4 ,average cost1 for #c lbs4 of apples1 with the other ingredients in proportion1 #bs4 #c;d4 ,sufficient4--#c lbs4 should fill #c moderate-sized jars4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made in ,september1 ,october1 or ,november4 ,,compote ,,of ,,apricots4 7,an elegant ,dish47 #aeba4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab1 #ab green apricots4 ,mode4--,make the syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 and when it is ready1 put in the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling4 ,simmer them very gently until tender1 taking care not to let them break2 take them out carefully1 arrange them on a glass dish1 let the syrup cool a little1 pour it over the apricots1 and1 when cold1 serve4 ,time4--,from #ae to #bj minutes to simmer the apricots4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,june and ,july1 with green apricots4 ,,apricot ,,jam or ,,marmalade4 #aebb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of ripe apricots1 weighed after being skinned and stoned1 allow #a lb4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,pare the apricots1 which should be ripe1 as thinly as possible1 break them in half1 and remove the stones4 ,weigh the fruit1 and to every lb4 allow the same proportion of loaf sugar4 ,pound the sugar very finely in a mortar1 strew it over the apricots1 which should be placed on dishes1 and let them remain for #ab hours4 ,break the stones1 blanch the kernels1 and put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan4 ,let these simmer very gently until clear2 take out the pieces of apricot singly as they become so1 and1 as fast as the scum rises1 carefully remove it4 ,put the apricots into small jars1 pour over them the syrup and kernels1 cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purest salad-oil1 and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-paper1 cut about #b inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg3 when dry1 it will be perfectly hard and air-tight4 ,time4--#ab hours sprinkled with sugar2 about #c_/d hour to boil the jam4 ,average cost4--,when cheap1 apricots may be purchased for preserving at about #as4 #f;d4 per gallon4 ,sufficient1--#aj lbs4 of fruit for #ab pots of jam4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,august or ,september4 ,,barberries ,,in ,,bunches4 #aebc4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of syrup ,no4 #aeac1 barberries4 ,mode4--,prepare some small pieces of clean white wood1 #c inches long and #a_/d inch wide1 and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches4 ,have ready some clear syrup1 made by recipe ,no4 #aeac2 put in the barberries1 and simmer them in it for #b successive days1 boiling them for nearly #a_/b hour each day1 and covering them each time with the syrup when cold4 ,when the fruit looks perfectly clear1 it is sufficiently done1 and should be stored away in pots1 with the syrup poured over1 or the fruit may be candied4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to simmer each day4 ,seasonable in autumn4 ,note4--,the berries in their natural state make a very pretty garnishing for dishes1 and may even be used for the same purpose1 preserved as above1 and look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes4 ,,to ,,make ,,barley-,,sugar4 #aebd4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/b the white of an egg4 ,mode4--,put the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan1 with the water1 and1 when the former is dissolved1 set it over a moderate fire1 adding the well-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm1 and stir it well together4 ,when it boils1 remove the scum as it rises1 and keep it boiling until no more appears1 and the syrup looks perfectly clear2 then strain it through a fine sieve or muslin bag1 and put it back into the saucepan4 ,boil it again like caramel1 until it is brittle1 when a little is dropped in a basin of cold water3 it is then sufficiently boiled4 ,add a little lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon1 and let it stand for a minute or two4 ,have ready a marble slab or large dish1 rubbed over with salad-oil2 pour on it the sugar1 and cut it into strips with a pair of scissors3 these strips should then be twisted1 and the barley-sugar stored away in a very dry place4 ,it may be formed into lozenges or drops1 by dropping the sugar in a very small quantity at a time on to the oiled slab or dish4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f sticks4 ,,carrot ,,jam ,,to ,,imitate ,,apricot ,,preserve4 #aebe4 ,,ingredients4--,carrots2 to every lb4 of carrot pulp allow #a lb4 of pounded sugar1 the grated rind of #a lemon1 the strained juice of #b1 #f chopped bitter almonds1 #b tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,select young carrots2 wash and scrape them clean1 cut them into round pieces1 put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them1 and let them simmer until perfectly soft2 then beat them through a sieve4 ,weigh the pulp1 and to every lb4 allow the above ingredients4 ,put the pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar1 and let this boil for #e minutes1 stirring and skimming all the time4 ,when cold1 add the lemon-rind and juice1 almonds and brandy2 mix these well with the jam2 then put it into pots1 which must be well covered and kept in a dry place4 ,the brandy may be omitted1 but the preserve will then not keep3 with the brandy it will remain good for months4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to boil the carrots2 #e minutes to simmer the pulp4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 for #a lb4 of pulp1 with the other ingredients in proportion4 ,sufficient to fill #c pots4 ,seasonable from ,july to ,december4 ,,to ,,make ,,cherry ,,brandy4 #aecf4 ,,ingredients4--,morella cherries1 good brandy2 to every lb4 of cherries allow #c oz4 of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,have ready some glass bottles1 which must be perfectly dry4 ,ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered1 and cut off about half of the stalks4 ,put them into the bottles1 with the above proportion of sugar to every lb4 of fruit2 strew this in between the cherries1 and1 when the bottles are nearly full1 pour in sufficient brandy to reach just below the cork4 ,a few peach or apricot kernels will add much to their flavour1 or a few blanched bitter almonds4 ,put corks or bungs into the bottles1 tie over them a piece of bladder1 and store away in a dry place4 ,the cherries will be fit to eat in #b or #c months1 and will remain good for years4 ,they are liable to shrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 per lb4 ,sufficient4--#a lb4 of cherries and about #a_/d pint of brandy for a quart bottle4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,,dried ,,cherries4 #aebg4 ,,cherries may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried before they begin to change colour4 ,they should then be taken out of the oven1 tied in bunches1 and stored away in a dry place4 ,in the winter1 they may be cooked with sugar for dessert1 the same as ,normandy pippins4 ,particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot4 ,another method of drying cherries is to stone them1 and to put them into a preserving-pan1 with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst them4 ,they should be simmered till the fruit shrivels1 when they should be strained from the juice4 ,the cherries should then be placed in an oven1 cool enough to dry without baking them4 ,about #e oz4 of sugar would be required for #a lb4 of cherries1 and the same syrup may be used again to do another quantity of fruit4 ,,cherry ,,jam4 #aebh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit1 weighed before stoning1 allow #a_/b lb4 of sugar2 to every #f lbs4 of fruit allow #a pint of red-currant juice1 and to every pint of juice #a lb4 of sugar4 ,mode4--,weigh the fruit before stoning1 and allow half the weight of sugar2 stone the cherries1 and boil them in a preserving-pan until nearly all the juice is dried up2 then add the sugar1 which should be crushed to powder1 and the currant-juice1 allowing #a pint to every #f lbs4 of cherries 7original weight71 and #a lb4 of sugar to every pint of juice4 ,boil all together until it jellies1 which will be in from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour2 skim the jam well1 keep it well stirred1 and1 a few minutes before it is done1 crack some of the stones1 and add the kernels3 these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam4 ,time4--,according to the quality of the cherries1 from #c_/d to #a hour to boil them2 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour with the sugar4 ,average cost1 from #g;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--#a pint of fruit for a lb4 pot of jam4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july or ,august4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,cherries ,,in ,,syrup4 7,very delicious47 #aebi4 ,,ingredients4--#d lbs4 of cherries1 #c lbs4 of sugar1 #a pint of white-currant juice4 ,mode4--,let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible1 and perfectly ripe2 pick off the stalks1 and remove the stones1 damaging the fruit as little as you can4 ,make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar1 by recipe ,no4 #aeab2 mix the cherries with it1 and boil them for about #ae minutes1 carefully skimming them2 turn them gently into a pan1 and let them remain till the next day2 then drain the cherries on a sieve1 and put the syrup and white-currant juice into the preserving-pan again4 ,boil these together until the syrup is somewhat reduced and rather thick2 then put in the cherries1 and let them boil for about #e minutes2 take them off the fire1 skim the syrup1 put the cherries into small pots or wide-mouthed bottles2 pour the syrup over1 and when quite cold1 tie them down carefully1 so that the air is quite excluded4 ,time4--#ae minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup2 #aj minutes to boil the syrup and currant-juice2 #f minutes to boil the cherries the second time4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july or ,august4 ,,black-,,currant ,,jam4 #aecj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit1 weighed before being stripped from the stalks1 allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a gill of water4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be very ripe1 and gathered on a dry day4 ,strip it from the stalks1 and put it into a preserving-pan1 with a gill of water to each lb4 of fruit2 boil these together for #aj minutes2 then add the sugar1 and boil the jam again for #cj minutes1 reckoning from the time when the jam simmers equally all over1 or longer1 should it not appear to set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate4 ,keep stirring it to prevent it from burning1 carefully remove all the scum1 and when done1 pour it into pots4 ,let it cool1 cover the top of the jam with oiled paper1 and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg3 this1 when cold1 forms a hard stiff cover1 and perfectly excludes the air4 ,great attention must be paid to the stirring of this jam1 as it is very liable to burn1 on account of the thickness of the juice4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the fruit and water2 #cj minutes with the sugar1 or longer4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 for a pot capable of holding #a lb4 ,sufficient4--,allow from #f to #g quarts of currants to make #a dozen pots of jam1 each pot to hold #a lb4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july4 ,,black-,,currant ,,jelly4 #aeca4 ,,ingredients4--,black currants2 to every pint of juice allow #a_/d pint of water1 #a lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,strip the currants from the stalks1 which may be done in an expeditious manner1 by holding the bunch in one hand1 and passing a small silver fork down the currants3 they will then readily fall from the stalks4 ,put them into a jar1 place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water1 and simmer them until their juice is extracted2 then strain them1 and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of sugar and water2 stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar is dissolved2 place the preserving-pan on the fire1 and boil the jelly for about #a_/b hour1 reckoning from the time it commences to boil all over1 and carefully remove the scum as it rises4 ,if the jelly becomes firm when a little is put on a plate1 it is done2 it should then be put into small pots1 and covered the same as the jam in the preceding recipe4 ,if the jelly is wanted very clear1 the fruit should not be squeezed dry2 but1 of course1 so much juice will not be obtained4 ,if the fruit is not much squeezed1 it may be converted into a jam for immediate eating1 by boiling it with a little common sugar3 this answers very well for a nursery preserve4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to extract the juice2 #a_/b hour to boil the jelly4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per #a_/b-lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,from #c pints to #b quarts of fruit should yield a pint of juice4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july4 ,,red-,,currant ,,jam4 #aecb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,illustration3 ,,jam-,,pot4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be gathered on a fine day2 weigh it1 and then strip the currants from the stalks2 put them into a preserving-pan with sugar in the above proportion2 stir them1 and boil them for about #c_/d hour4 ,carefully remove the scum as it rises4 ,put the jam into pots1 and1 when cold1 cover with oiled papers2 over these put a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg2 press the paper round the top of the pot1 and1 when dry1 the covering will be quite hard and air-tight4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour1 reckoning from the time the jam boils all over4 ,average cost1 for a lb4 pot1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow from #f to #g quarts of currants to make #ab #a-lb1 pots of jam4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july4 ,,red-,,currant ,,jelly4 #aecc4 ,,ingredients4--,red currants2 to every pint of juice allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,have the fruit gathered in fine weather2 pick it from the stalks1 put it into a jar1 and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire1 and let it simmer gently until the juice is well drawn from the currants2 then strain them through a jelly-bag or fine cloth1 and1 if the jelly is wished very clear1 do not squeeze them too much1 as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through with the juice1 and so make the jelly muddy4 ,measure the juice1 and to each pint allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar2 put these into a preserving-pan1 set it over the fire1 and keep stirring the jelly until it is done1 carefully removing every particle of scum as it rises1 using a wooden or silver spoon for the purpose1 as metal or iron ones would spoil the colour of the jelly when it has boiled from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 put a little of the jelly on a plate1 and if firm when cool1 it is done4 ,take it off the fire1 pour it into small gallipots1 cover each of the pots with an oiled paper1 and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,label the pots1 adding the year when the jelly was made1 and store it away in a dry place4 ,a jam may be made with the currants1 if they are not squeezed too dry1 by adding a few fresh raspberries1 and boiling all together1 with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely4 ,as this preserve is not worth storing away1 but is only for immediate eating1 a smaller proportion of sugar than usual will be found enough3 it answers very well for children's puddings1 or for a nursery preserve4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour to extract the juice2 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour to boil the jelly4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per #a_/b-lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--#h quarts of currants will make from #aj to #ab pots of jelly4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july4 ,note4--,should the above proportion of sugar not be found sufficient for some tastes1 add an extra #a_/d lb4 to every pint of juice1 making altogether #a lb4 ,,white-,,currant ,,jelly4 #aecd4 ,,ingredients4--,white currants2 to every pint of juice allow #c_/d lb4 of good loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pick the currants from the stalks1 and put them into a jar2 place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water1 and simmer until the juice is well drawn from the fruit1 which will be in from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag2 do not squeeze them too much1 or the jelly will not be clear1 and put the juice into a very clean preserving-pan1 with the sugar4 ,let this simmer gently over a clear fire until it is firm1 and keep stirring and skimming until it is done2 then pour it into small pots1 cover them1 and store away in a dry place4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to draw the juice2 #a_/b hour to boil the jelly4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per #a_/b-lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,from #c pints to #b quarts of fruit should yield #a pint of juice4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august4 ,,baked ,,damsons ,,for ,,winter ,,use4 #aece4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #f oz4 of pounded sugar2 melted mutton suet4 ,mode4--,choose sound fruit1 not too ripe2 pick off the stalks1 weigh it1 and to every lb4 allow the above proportion of pounded sugar4 ,put the fruit into large dry stone jars1 sprinkling the sugar amongst it2 cover the jars with saucers1 place them in a rather cool oven1 and bake the fruit until it is quite tender4 ,when cold1 cover the top of the fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar2 pour over this melted mutton suet about an inch thick1 and cover the tops of the jars with thick brown paper1 well tied down4 ,keep the jars in a cool dry place1 and the fruit will remain good till the following ,christmas1 but not much longer4 ,time4--,from #e to #f hours to bake the damsons1 in a very cool oven4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october4 ,,damson ,,cheese4 #aecf4 ,,ingredients4--,damsons2 to every lb4 of fruit pulp allow #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pick the stalks from the damsons1 and put them into a preserving-pan2 simmer them over the fire until they are soft1 occasionally stirring them2 then beat them through a coarse sieve1 and put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan1 with sugar in the above proportion1 having previously carefully weighed them4 ,stir the sugar well in1 and simmer the damsons slowly for #b hours4 ,skim well2 then boil the preserve quickly for #a_/b hour1 or until it looks firm and hard in the spoon2 put it quickly into shallow pots1 or very tiny earthenware moulds1 and1 when cold1 cover it with oiled papers1 and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,a few of the stones may be cracked1 and the kernels boiled with the damsons1 which very much improves the flavour of the cheese4 ,time4--#a hour to boil the damsons without the sugar2 #b hours to simmer them slowly1 #a_/b hour quickly4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per #a_/c lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--#a pint of damsons to make a very small pot of cheese4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september or ,october4 ,,compote ,,of ,,damsons4 #aecg4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of damsons1 #a pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab4 ,mode4--,procure sound ripe damsons2 pick the stalks from them1 and put them into boiling syrup1 made by recipe ,no4 #aeab4 ,simmer them gently until the fruit is tender1 but not sufficiently soft to break2 take them up1 boil the syrup for #e minutes2 pour it over the damsons1 and serve4 ,this should be sent to table in a glass dish4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour to simmer the damsons2 #e minutes to boil the syrup4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october4 ,,damson ,,jam4 #aech4 ,,ingredients4--,damsons2 to every lb4 of fruit allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,have the fruit gathered in dry weather2 pick it over1 and reject any that is at all blemished4 ,stone the damsons1 weigh them1 and to every lb4 allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-pan2 keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved1 and carefully remove the scum as it rises4 ,boil the jam for about an hour1 reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike3 it must be well stirred all the time1 or it will be liable to burn and stick to the pan1 which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeable flavour4 ,when the jam looks firm1 and the juice appears to set1 it is done4 ,then take it off the fire1 put into pots1 cover it down1 when quite cold1 with oiled and egged papers1 the same as in recipe ,no4 #aecj1 and store it away in a dry place4 ,time4--#a hour after the jam simmers all over4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--#a-a_/b pint of damsons for a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september or ,october4 ,a ,,very ,,nice ,,preserve ,,of ,,damsons4 #aeci4 ,,ingredients4--,to every quart of damsons allow #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,put the damsons 7which should be picked from the stalks and quite free from blemishes7 into a jar1 with pounded sugar sprinkled amongst them in the above proportion2 tie the jar closely down1 set it in a saucepan of cold water2 bring it gradually to boil1 and simmer gently until the damsons are soft1 without being broken4 ,let them stand till cold2 then strain the juice from them1 boil it up well1 strain it through a jelly-bag1 and pour it over the fruit4 ,let it cool1 cover with oiled papers1 and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg1 and store away in a dry cool place4 ,time4--,about #c_/d hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils2 #a_/d hour to boil the juice4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september or ,october4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,damsons1 ,,or ,,any ,,kind ,,of ,,plums4 7,useful in ,winter47 #aedj4 ,,ingredients4--,damsons or plums2 boiling water4 ,mode4--,pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars1 taking care to leave out all that are broken or blemished4 ,when full1 pour boiling water on the plums1 until it stands one inch above the fruit2 cut a piece of paper to fit the inside of the jar1 over which pour melted mutton-suet2 cover down with brown paper1 and keep the jars in a dry cool place4 ,when used1 the suet should be removed1 the water poured off1 and the jelly at the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october4 ,,compote ,,of ,,green ,,figs4 ,illustration3 ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,figs4 #aeda4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab1 #a-a_/b pint of green figs1 the rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,make a syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 boiling with it the lemon-rind1 and carefully remove all the scum as it rises4 ,put in the figs1 and simmer them very slowly until tender2 dish them on a glass dish2 reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for #e minutes2 take out the lemon-peel1 pour the syrup over the figs1 and the compote1 when cold1 will be ready for table4 ,a little port wine1 or lemon-juice1 added just before the figs are done1 will be found an improvement4 ,time4--#b to #c hours to stew the figs4 ,average cost1 figs1 #bs4 to #cs4 per dozen4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,,to ,,bottle ,,fresh ,,fruit4 7,very useful in ,winter47 ,i4 #aedb4 ,,ingredients4--,fresh fruits1 such as currants1 raspberries1 cherries1 gooseberries1 plums of all kinds1 damsons1 c42 wide-mouthed glass bottles1 new corks to fit them tightly4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be full grown1 but not too ripe1 and gathered in dry weather4 ,pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking the skin1 and reject any that is at all blemished3 if gathered in the damp1 or if the skins are cut at all1 the fruit will mould4 ,have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles1 and some nice new soft corks or bungs2 burn a match in each bottle1 to exhaust the air1 and quickly place the fruit in to be preserved2 gently cork the bottles1 and put them into a very cool oven1 where let them remain until the fruit has shrunk away a fourth part4 ,then take the bottles out2 do not open them1 but immediately beat the corks in tight1 cut off the tops1 and cover them with melted resin4 ,if kept in a dry place1 the fruit will remain good for months2 and on this principally depends the success of the preparation2 for if stored away in a place that is in the least damp1 the fruit will soon spoil4 ,time4--,from #e to #f hours in a very slow oven4 ,,ii4 #aedc4 ,,ingredients4--,any kind of fresh fruit1 such as currants1 cherries1 gooseberries1 all kinds of plums1 c42 wide-mouthed glass bottles1 new corks to fit them tightly4 ,mode4--,the fruit must be full-grown1 not too ripe1 and gathered on a fine day4 ,let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles1 which must be clean and perfectly dry4 ,tie over the tops of the bottles pieces of bladder2 stand the bottles in a large pot1 copper1 or boiler1 with cold water to reach to their necks2 kindle a fire under1 let the water boil1 and as the bladders begin to rise and puff1 prick them4 ,as soon as the water boils1 extinguish the fire1 and let the bottles remain where they are1 to become cold4 ,the next day remove the bladders1 and strew over the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar2 fit the bottles with corks1 and let each cork lie close at hand to its own bottle4 ,hold for a few moments1 in the neck of the bottle1 two or three lighted matches1 and when they have filled the bottle neck with gas1 and before they go out1 remove them very quickly2 instantly cork the bottle closely1 and dip it in bottle cement4 ,time4--,altogether about #h hours4 ,,to ,,bottle ,,fresh ,,fruit ,,with ,,sugar4 7,very useful in ,winter47 #aedd4 ,,ingredients4--,any kind of fresh fruit2 to each quart bottle allow #a_/d lb4 of pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be gathered in dry weather4 ,pick it carefully1 and drop it into clean and very dry quart glass bottles1 sprinkling over it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart4 ,put the corks in the bottles1 and place them in a copper of cold water up to their necks1 with small hay-wisps round them1 to prevent the bottles from knocking together4 ,light the fire under1 bring the water gradually to boil1 and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is reduced nearly one third4 ,extinguish the fire1 and let the bottles remain in the water until it is perfectly cold2 then take them out1 make the corks secure1 and cover them with melted resin or wax4 ,time4--,about #a hour from the time the water commences to boil4 ,,to ,,frost ,,holly-,,leaves1 for garnishing and decorating ,dessert and ,supper ,dishes4 #aede4--;,,ingredients4--,sprigs of holly1 oiled butter1 coarsely-powdered sugar4 ,mode4--,procure some nice sprigs of holly2 pick the leaves from the stalks1 and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture2 then place them on a dish near the fire1 to get thoroughly dry1 but not too near to shrivel the leaves2 dip them into oiled butter1 sprinkle over them some coarsely-powdered sugar1 and dry them before the fire4 ,they should be kept in a dry place1 as the least damp would spoil their appearance4 ,time4--,about #aj minutes to dry before the fire4 ,seasonable4--,these may be made at any time2 but are more suitable for winter garnishes1 when fresh flowers are not easily obtained4 ,,compote ,,of ,,gooseberries4 #aedf4 ,,ingredients4--,syrup made by recipe ,no4 #aeab2 to #a pint of syrup allow nearly a quart of gooseberries4 ,mode4--,top and tail the gooseberries1 which should not be very ripe1 and pour over them some boiling water2 then take them out1 and plunge them into cold water1 with which has been mixed a tablespoonful of vinegar1 which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour4 ,make a pint of syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 and when it boils1 drain the gooseberries and put them in2 simmer them gently until the fruit is nicely pulped and tender1 without being broken2 then dish the gooseberries on a glass dish1 boil the syrup for #b or #c minutes1 pour over the gooseberries1 and serve cold4 ,time4--,about #e minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup2 #c minutes to reduce the syrup4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient1--a quart of gooseberries for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,june4 ,,gooseberry ,,jam4 ,i4 #aedg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar2 currant-juice4 ,mode4--,select red hairy gooseberries2 have them gathered in dry weather1 when quite ripe1 without being too soft4 ,weigh them2 with a pair of scissors1 cut off the tops and tails1 and to every #f lbs4 of fruit have ready #a_/b pint of red-currant juice1 drawn as for jelly4 ,put the gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan2 let them boil tolerably quickly1 keeping them well stirred2 when they begin to break1 add to them the sugar1 and keep simmering until the jam becomes firm1 carefully skimming3 and stirring it1 that it does not burn at the bottom4 ,it should be boiled rather a long time1 or it will not keep4 ,put it into pots 7not too large72 let it get perfectly cold2 then cover the pots down with oiled and egged papers1 as directed for red-currant jelly ,no4 #aecc4 ,time4--,about #a hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice2 from #a_/b to #c_/d hour with the sugar4 ,average cost1 per lb4 pot1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a-a_/b pint of fruit for a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,june or ,july4 ,,ii4 #aedh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #h lbs4 of red1 rough1 ripe gooseberries allow #a quart of red-currant juice1 #e lbs4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,have the fruit gathered in dry weather1 and cut off the tops and tails4 ,prepare #a quart of red-currant juice1 the same as for red-currant jelly ,no4 #aecc2 put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar1 and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved4 ,keep it boiling for about #e minutes2 skim well2 then put in the gooseberries1 and let them boil from #a_/b to #c_/d hour2 then turn the whole into an earthen pan1 and let it remain for #b days4 ,boil the jam up again until it looks clear2 put it into pots1 and when cold1 cover with oiled paper1 and over the jars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg1 and store away in a dry place4 ,care must be taken1 in making this1 to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed1 to prevent it burning at the bottom of the pan1 and to have it very clear4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil the currant-juice and sugar after the latter is dissolved2 from #a_/b to #c_/d hour to simmer the gooseberries the first time1 #a_/d hour the second time of boiling4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a-a_/b pint of fruit for a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,june or ,july4 ,,white ,,or ,,green ,,gooseberry ,,jam4 #aedi4 ,,ingredients4--,equal weight of fruit and sugar4 ,mode4--,select the gooseberries not very ripe1 either white or green1 and top and tail them4 ,boil the sugar with water 7allowing #a_/b pint to every lb47 for about #a_/d hour1 carefully removing the scum as it rises2 then put in the gooseberries1 and simmer gently till clear and firm3 try a little of the jam on a plate2 if it jellies when cold1 it is done1 and should then be poured into pots4 ,when cold1 cover with oiled paper1 and tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten white of an egg1 and store away in a dry place4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to boil the sugar and water1 #c_/d hour the jam4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a-a_/b pint of fruit for a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,june4 ,,gooseberry ,,jelly4 #aeej4 ,,ingredients4--,gooseberries2 to every pint of juice allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,put the gooseberries1 after cutting off the tops and tails1 into a preserving-pan1 and stir them over the fire until they are quite soft2 then strain them through a sieve1 and to every pint of juice allow #c_/d lb4 of sugar4 ,boil the juice and sugar together for nearly #c_/d hour1 stirring and skimming all the time2 and if the jelly appears firm when a little of it is poured on to a plate1 it is done1 and should then be taken up and put into small pots4 ,cover the pots with oiled and egged papers1 the same as for currant jelly ,no4 #aecc1 and store away in a dry place4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar2 #c_/d hour to boil the juice4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per #a_/b-lb4 pot4 ,seasonable in ,july4 ,,compote ,,of ,,greengages4 #aeea4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of syrup made by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 #a quart of greengages4 ,mode4--,make a syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 skim it well1 and put in the greengages when the syrup is boiling1 having previously removed the stalks and stones from the fruit4 ,boil gently for #a_/d hour1 or until the fruit is tender2 but take care not to let it break1 as the appearance of the dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp4 ,take the greengages carefully out1 place them on a glass dish1 boil the syrup for another #e minutes1 let it cool a little1 pour over the fruit1 and1 when cold1 it will be ready for use4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to simmer the fruit1 #e minutes the syrup4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september4 ,,greengage ,,jam4 #aeeb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit1 weighed before being stoned1 allow #c_/d lb4 of lump sugar4 ,mode4--,divide the greengages1 take out the stones1 and put them into a preserving-pan4 ,bring the fruit to a boil1 then add the sugar1 and keep stirring it over a gentle fire until it is melted4 ,remove all the scum as it rises1 and1 just before the jam is done1 boil it rapidly for #e minutes4 ,to ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled1 pour a little on a plate1 and if the syrup thickens and appears firm1 it is done4 ,have ready half the kernels blanched2 put them into the jam1 give them one boil1 and pour the preserve into pots4 ,when cold1 cover down with oiled papers1 and1 over these1 tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,time4--#c_/d hour after the sugar is added4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow about #a-a_/b pint of fruit for every lb4 pot of jam4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,august or ,september4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,and ,,dry ,,greengages4 #aeec4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a lb4 of fruit1 #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,for this purpose1 the fruit must be used before it is quite ripe1 and part of the stalk must be left on4 ,weigh the fruit1 rejecting all that is in the least degree blemished1 and put it into a lined saucepan with the sugar and water1 which should have been previously boiled together to a rich syrup4 ,boil the fruit in this for #aj minutes1 remove it from the fire1 and drain the greengages4 ,the next day1 boil up the syrup and put in the fruit again1 and let it simmer for #c minutes1 and drain the syrup away4 ,continue this process for #e or #f days1 and the last time place the greengages1 when drained1 on a hair sieve1 and put them in an oven or warm spot to dry2 keep them in a box1 with paper between each layer1 in a place free from damp4 ,time4--#aj minutes the first time of boiling4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,august or ,september4 ,,preserved ,,greengages ,,in ,,syrup4 #aeed4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #a lb4 of loaf sugar #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together for about #aj minutes2 divide the greengages1 take out the stones1 put the fruit into the syrup1 and let it simmer gently until nearly tender4 ,take it off the fire1 put it into a large pan1 and1 the next day1 boil it up again for about #aj minutes with the kernels from the stones1 which should be blanched4 ,put the fruit carefully into jars1 pour over it the syrup1 and1 when cold1 cover down1 so that the air is quite excluded4 ,let the syrup be well skimmed both the first and second day of boiling1 otherwise it will not be clear4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the syrup2 #a_/d hour to simmer the fruit the first day1 #aj minutes the second day4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow about #a pint of fruit to fill a #a-lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,august or ,september4 ,,to ,,make ,,fruit ,,ice-,,creams4 #aeee4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of fruit-juice allow #a pint of cream2 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be well ripened2 pick it off the stalks1 and put it into a large earthen pan4 ,stir it about with a wooden spoon1 breaking it until it is well mashed2 then1 with the back of the spoon1 rub it through a hair sieve4 ,sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar2 whip the cream for a few minutes1 add it to the fruit1 and whisk the whole again for another #e minutes4 ,put the mixture into the freezing-pot1 and freeze in the same manner as directed for ,ice ,pudding1 ,no4 #abij1 taking care to stir the cream1 c41 two or three times1 and to remove it from the sides of the vessel1 that the mixture may be equally frozen and smooth4 ,ices are usually served in glasses1 but if moulded1 as they sometimes are for dessert1 must have a small quantity of melted isinglass added to them1 to enable them to keep their shape4 ,raspberry1 strawberry1 currant1 and all fruit ice-creams1 are made in the same manner4 ,a little pounded sugar sprinkled over the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract the juice4 ,in winter1 when fresh fruit is not obtainable1 a little jam may be substituted for it3 it should be melted and worked through a sieve before being added to the whipped cream2 and if the colour should not be good1 a little prepared cochineal or beetroot may be put in to improve its appearance4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,average cost1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #d;d4 each ice4 ,seasonable1 with fresh fruit1 in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,to ,,make ,,fruit-,,water ,,ices4 #aeef4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of fruit-juice allow #a pint of syrup made by recipe ,no4 #aeac4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,ices4 ,mode4--,select nice ripe fruit2 pick off the stalks1 and put it into a large earthen pan1 with a little pounded sugar strewed over2 stir it about with a wooden spoon until it is well broken1 then rub it through a hair sieve4 ,make the syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeac1 omitting the white of the egg2 let it cool1 add the fruit-juice1 mix well together1 and put the mixture into the freezing-pot4 ,proceed as directed for ,ice ,puddings1 ,no4 #abij1 and when the mixture is equally frozen1 put it into small glasses4 ,raspberry1 strawberry1 currant1 and other fresh-fruit-water ices1 are made in the same manner4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 to #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable1 with fresh fruit1 in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,lemon-,,water ,,ice4 #aeeg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of syrup1 made by recipe ,no4 #aeac1 allow #a_/c pint of lemon-juice2 the rind of #d lemons4 ,mode4--,rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons1 and with it make the syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeac1 omitting the white of egg4 ,strain the lemon-juice1 add it to the other ingredients1 stir well1 and put the mixture into a freezing-pot4 ,freeze as directed for ,ice ,pudding1 ,no4 #abij1 and1 when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen1 put it into ice-glasses4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to freeze the mixture4 ,average cost1 #c;d4 to #d;d4 each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,iced ,,currants1 for ,dessert4 #aeeh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d pint of water1 the whites of #b eggs1 currants1 pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,select very fine bunches of red or white currants1 and well beat the whites of the eggs4 ,mix these with the water2 then take the currants1 a bunch at a time1 and dip them in2 let them drain for a minute or two1 and roll them in very fine pounded sugar4 ,lay them to dry on paper1 when the sugar will crystallize round each currant1 and have a very pretty effect4 ,all fresh fruit may be prepared in the same manner2 and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner1 and arranged on one dish1 looks very well for a summer dessert4 ,time4--#a_/d day to dry the fruit4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 for a pint of iced currants4 ,seasonable in summer4 ,,melons4 #aeei4--,this fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way1 and should be sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers1 as fancy dictates4 ,a border of any other kind of small fruit1 arranged round the melon1 has a pretty effect1 the colour the former contrasting nicely with the melon4 ,plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it2 and the fruit should be cut lengthwise1 in moderate-sized slices4 ,in ,america1 it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt4 ,average cost1--,english1 in full season1 #cs4 #f;d4 to #es4 each2 when scarce1 #ajs4 to #aes42 seasonable1 ,june to ,august4 ,french1 #bs4 to #cs4 #f;d4 each2 seasonable1 ,june and ,july4 ,dutch1 #i;d4 to #bs4 each2 seasonable1 ,july and ,august4 ,,melon4--,the melon is a most delicious fruit1 succulent1 cool1 and high-flavoured4 ,with us1 it is used only at the dessert1 and is generally eaten with sugar1 ginger1 or pepper2 but1 in ,france1 it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats4 ,it grows wild in ,tartary1 and has been lately found in abundance on the sandy plains of ,jeypoor4 ,it was brought originally from ,asia by the ,romans1 and is said to have been common in ,england in the time of ,edward ,,iii41 though it is supposed that it was lost again1 as well as the cucumber1 during the wars of ,york and ,lancaster4 ,the best kind1 called the ,cantaloupe1 from the name of a place near ,rome where it was first cultivated in ,europe1 is a native of ,armenia1 where it grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a crown4 ,,preserved ,,mulberries4 #aefj4 ,,ingredients4--,to #b lbs4 of fruit and #a pint of juice allow #b-a_/b lbs4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan1 and simmer it gently until the juice is well drawn4 ,strain it through a bag1 measure it1 and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit4 ,put the sugar into the preserving-pan1 moisten it with the juice1 boil it up1 skim well1 and then add the mulberries1 which should be ripe1 but not soft enough to break to a pulp4 ,let them stand in the syrup till warm through1 then set them on the fire to boil gently2 when half done1 turn them carefully into an earthen pan1 and let them remain till the next day2 then boil them as before1 and when the syrup is thick1 and becomes firm when cold1 put the preserve into pots4 ,in making this1 care should be taken not to break the mulberries3 this may be avoided by very gentle stirring1 and by simmering the fruit very slowly4 ,time4--#c_/d hour to extract the juice2 #a_/d hour to boil the mulberries the first time1 #a_/d hour the second time4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,mulberry4 ,,mulberry4--,mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour1 and their sub-acid nature4 ,they are considered as cooling1 laxative1 and generally wholesome4 ,this fruit was very highly esteemed by the ,romans1 who appear to have preferred it to every other4 ,the mulberry-tree is stated to have been introduced into this country in #aedh1 being first planted at ,sion ,house1 where the original trees still thrive4 ,the planting of them was much encouraged by ,king ,james ,i4 about #afje2 and considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a large scale for the purpose of making silk2 but these endeavours have always failed1 the climate being scarcely warm enough4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,morello ,,cherries4 #aefa4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of cherries allow #a-a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a gill of water4 ,mode4--,select ripe cherries2 pick off the stalks1 and reject all that have any blemishes4 ,boil the sugar and water together for #e minutes2 put in the cherries1 and boil them for #aj minutes1 removing the scum as it rises4 ,then turn the fruit1 c4 into a pan1 and let it remain until the next day1 when boil it all again for another #aj minutes1 and1 if necessary1 skim well4 ,put the cherries into small pots2 pour over them the syrup1 and1 when cold1 cover down with oiled papers1 and the tops of the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg1 and keep in a dry place4 ,time4--,altogether1 #be minutes to boil4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july or ,august4 ,,the ,,cherry-,,tree ,,in ,,rome4--,the ,cherry-tree was introduced into ,rome by ,lucullus about seventy years before the ,christian era2 but the capital of the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as it deserved2 for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in ,italy1 that more than a century after its introduction it was far from being generally cultivated4 ,the ,romans distinguished three principal species of cherries--the ,apronian1 of a bright red1 with a firm and delicate pulp2 the ,lutatian1 very black and sweet2 the ,caecilian1 round and stubby1 and much esteemed4 ,the cherry embellished the third course in ,rome and the second at ,athens4 ,,preserved ,,nectarines4 #aefb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/d pint of water2 nectarines4 ,mode4--,divide the nectarines in two1 take out the stones1 and make a strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion4 ,put in the nectarines1 and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar4 ,keep the fruit as whole as possible1 and turn it carefully into a pan4 ,the next day boil it again for a few minutes1 take out the nectarines1 put them into jars1 boil the syrup quickly for #e minutes1 pour it over the fruit1 and1 when cold1 cover the preserve down4 ,the syrup and preserve must be carefully skimmed1 or it will not be clear4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the sugar and water2 #bj minutes to boil the fruit the first time1 #aj minutes the second time2 #e minutes to boil the syrup4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september1 but cheapest in ,september4 ,,stewed ,,normandy ,,pippins4 #aefc4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of ,normandy pippins1 #a quart of water1 #a_/b teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon1 #a_/b teaspoonful of ground ginger1 #a lb4 of moist sugar1 #a lemon4 ,mode4--,well wash the pippins1 and put them into #a quart of water with the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger1 and let them stand #ab hours2 then put these all together into a stewpan1 with the lemon sliced thinly1 and half the moist sugar4 ,let them boil slowly until the pippins are half done2 then add the remainder of the sugar1 and simmer until they are quite tender4 ,serve on glass dishes for dessert4 ,time4--#b to #c hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a winter dish4 ,,iced ,,oranges4 #aefd4 ,,ingredients4--,oranges2 to every lb4 of pounded loaf sugar allow the whites of #b eggs4 ,mode4--,whisk the whites of the eggs well1 stir in the sugar1 and beat this mixture for #a_/d hour4 ,skin the oranges1 remove as much of the white pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit2 pass a thread through the centre of each orange1 dip them into the sugar1 and tie them to a stick4 ,place this stick across the oven1 and let the oranges remain until dry1 when they will have the appearance of balls of ice4 ,they make a pretty dessert or supper dish4 ,care must be taken not to have the oven too fierce1 or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour1 which would entirely spoil their appearance4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #a hour to dry in a moderate oven4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each4 ,sufficient4--#a_/b lb4 of sugar to ice #ab oranges4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,the ,,first ,,orange-,,tree ,,in ,,france4--,the first ,orange-tree cultivated in the centre of ,france was to be seen a few years ago at ,fontainebleau4 ,it was called ,le ,conntable 7the ,constable71 because it had belonged to the ,conntable de ,bourbon1 and had been confiscated1 together with all property belonging to that prince1 after his revolt against his sovereign4 ,,compote ,,of ,,oranges4 #aefe4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab1 #f oranges4 ,mode4--,peel the oranges1 remove as much of the white pith as possible1 and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which they are surrounded4 ,make the syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 adding the rind of the orange cut into thin narrow strips4 ,when the syrup has been well skimmed1 and is quite clear1 put in the pieces of orange1 and simmer them for #e minutes4 ,take them out carefully with a spoon without breaking them1 and arrange them on a glass dish4 ,reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick2 let it cool a little1 pour it over the oranges1 and1 when cold1 they will be ready for table4 ,illustration3 ,,comp,,te ,,of ,,oranges4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the syrup2 #e minutes to simmer the oranges2 #e minutes to reduce the syrup4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,the ,,orange ,,in ,,portugal4--,the ,orange known under the name of ,portugal ,orange comes originally from ,china4 ,not more than two centuries ago1 the ,portuguese brought thence the first scion1 which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in ,portugal4 ,,orange ,,and ,,cloves4--,it appears to have been the custom formerly1 in ,england1 to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full with cloves4 ,we read in one of ,ben ,jonson's pieces1--the ,christmas ,masque1--,he has an orange and rosemary1 but not a clove to stick in it4 ,,orange ,,marmalade4 ,i4 #aeff4 ,,ingredients4--,equal weight of fine loaf sugar and ,seville oranges2 to #ab oranges allow #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and ,seville oranges1 and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges4 ,peel them carefully1 remove a little of the white pith1 and boil the rinds in water #b hours1 changing the water three times to take off a little of the bitter taste4 ,break the pulp into small pieces1 take out all the pips1 and cut the boiled rind into chips4 ,make a syrup with the sugar and water2 boil this well1 skim it1 and1 when clear1 put in the pulp and chips4 ,boil all together from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour2 pour it into pots1 and1 when cold1 cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,the juice and grated rind of #b lemons to every dozen of oranges1 added with the pulp and chips to the syrup1 are a very great improvement to this marmalade4 ,time4--#b hours to boil the orange-rinds2 #aj minutes to boil the syrup2 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour to boil the marmalade4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made in ,march or ,april1 as ,seville oranges are then in perfection4 ,,ii4 #aefg4 ,,ingredients4--,equal weight of ,seville oranges and sugar2 to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,weigh the sugar and oranges1 score the skin across1 and take it off in quarters4 ,boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they are quite soft1 and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin2 then cut them into chips about #a inch long1 and as thin as possible4 ,should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp1 remove it before cutting the rind into chips4 ,split open the oranges1 scrape out the best part of the pulp1 with the juice1 rejecting the white pith and pips4 ,make a syrup with the sugar and water2 boil it until clear2 then put in the chips1 pulp1 and juice1 and boil the marmalade from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour1 removing all the scum as it rises4 ,in boiling the syrup1 clear it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it4 ,time4--#b hours to boil the rinds1 #aj minutes the syrup1 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour the marmalade4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,march or ,april1 when ,seville oranges are in perfection4 ,,an ,,easy ,,way ,,of ,,making ,,orange ,,marmalade4 #aefh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of pulp allow #a-a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,choose some fine ,seville oranges2 put them whole into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them1 and stew them until they become perfectly tender1 changing the water #b or #c times2 drain them1 take off the rind1 remove the pips from the pulp1 weigh it1 and to every lb4 allow #a-a_/b of loaf sugar and #a_/b pint of the water the oranges were last boiled in4 ,boil the sugar and water together for #aj minutes2 put in the pulp1 boil for another #aj minutes2 then add the peel cut into strips1 and boil the marmalade for another #aj minutes1 which completes the process4 ,pour it into jars2 let it cool2 then cover down with bladders1 or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,time4--#b hours to boil the oranges2 altogether #a_/b hour to boil the marmalade4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable--,make this in ,march or ,april4 ,,orange ,,marmalade ,,made ,,with ,,honey4 #aefi4 ,,ingredients4--,to #a quart of the juice and pulp of ,seville oranges allow #b lbs4 of honey1 #a lb4 of the rind4 ,mode4--,peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender1 and cut it into strips4 ,take away the pips from the juice and pulp1 and put it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan2 boil all together for about #a_/b hour1 or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency2 put it into pots1 and1 when cold1 cover down with bladders4 ,time4--#b hours to boil the rind1 #a_/b hour the marmalade4 ,average cost1 from #g;d4 to #i;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,march or ,april4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,oranges4 #aegj4 ,,ingredients4--,oranges2 to every lb4 of juice and pulp allow #b lbs4 of loaf sugar2 to every pint of water #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,wholly grate or peel the oranges1 taking off only the thin outside portion of the rind4 ,make a small incision where the stalk is taken out1 squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained1 and preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it4 ,put the oranges into cold water2 let them stand for #c days1 changing the water twice2 then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender1 and put them to drain4 ,make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar and water1 sufficient to cover the oranges2 let them stand in it for #b or #c days2 then drain them well4 ,weigh the juice and pulp1 allow double their weight of sugar1 and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise1 which must all be carefully removed2 put in the oranges1 boil them for #aj minutes1 place them in jars1 pour over them the syrup1 and1 when cold1 cover down4 ,they will be fit for use in a week4 ,time4--#c days for the oranges to remain in water1 #c days in the syrup2 #a_/b hour to boil the pulp1 #aj minutes the oranges4 ,seasonable4--,this preserve should be made in ,february or ,march1 when oranges are plentiful4 ,,orange ,,salad4 #aega4 ,,ingredients4--#f oranges1 #a_/d lb4 of muscatel raisins1 #b oz4 of pounded sugar1 #d tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,mode4--,peel #e of the oranges2 divide them into slices without breaking the pulp1 and arrange them on a glass dish4 ,stone the raisins1 mix them with the sugar and brandy1 and mingle them with the oranges4 ,squeeze the juice of the other orange over the whole1 and the dish is ready for table4 ,a little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked2 but this ingredient must be added very sparingly4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,november to ,may4 ,,compote ,,of ,,peaches4 #aegb4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab1 about #ae small peaches4 ,mode4--,peaches that are not very large1 and that would not look well for dessert1 answer very nicely for a compte4 ,divide the peaches1 take out the stones1 and pare the fruit2 make a syrup by recipe ,no4 #aeab1 put in the peaches1 and stew them gently for about #aj minutes4 ,take them out without breaking1 arrange them on a glass dish1 boil the syrup for #b or #c minutes1 let it cool1 pour it over the fruit1 and1 when cold1 it will be ready for table4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,,peach ,,and ,,nectarine4--,the peach and nectarine1 which are among the most delicious of our fruits1 are considered as varieties of the same species1 produced by cultivation4 ,the former is characterized by a very delicate down1 while the latter is smooth2 but1 as a proof of their identity as to species1 trees have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another2 and even a single fruit has had down on one side1 and on the other none2 the trees are almost exactly alike1 as well as the blossoms4 ,pliny states that the peach was originally brought from ,persia1 where it grows naturally4 ,at ,montreuil1 a village near ,paris1 almost the whole population is employed in the cultivation of peaches2 and this occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages1 and1 in consequence1 they raise better peaches than anywhere else in ,france4 ,in ,maryland and ,virginia1 peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests2 but the fruit is of little value for the table1 being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy4 ,on the east side of the ,andes1 peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the mountains1 and are dried as an article of food4 ,the young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery1 from their agreeable flavour2 and a liqueur resembling the fine noyeau of ,martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy sweetened with sugar and fined with milk3 gin may also be flavoured in the same manner4 ,the kernels of the fruit have the same flavour4 ,the nectarine is said to have received its name from nectar1 the particular drink of the gods4 ,though it is considered as the same species as the peach1 it is not known which of the varieties come from the other2 the nectarine1 is by some considered as the superior fruit4 ,,peaches ,,preserved ,,in ,,brandy4 #aegc4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit weighed before being stoned1 allow #a_/d lb4 of finely-pounded loaf sugar2 brandy4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be gathered in dry weather2 wipe and weigh it1 and remove the stones as carefully as possible1 without injuring the peaches much4 ,put them into a jar1 sprinkle amongst them pounded loaf sugar in the above proportion1 and pour brandy over the fruit4 ,cover the jar down closely1 place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire1 and bring the brandy to the simmering-point1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,take the fruit out carefully1 without breaking it2 put it into small jars1 pour over it the brandy1 and1 when cold1 exclude the air by covering the jars with bladders1 or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,apricots may be done in the same manner1 and1 if properly prepared1 will be found delicious4 ,time4--,from #aj to #bj minutes to bring the brandy to the simmering-point4 ,seasonable in ,august and ,september4 ,,baked ,,pears4 #aegd4 ,,ingredients4--#ab pears1 the rind of #a lemon1 #f cloves1 #aj whole allspice2 to every pint of water allow #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pare and cut the pears into halves1 and1 should they be very large1 into quarters2 leave the stalks on1 and carefully remove the cores4 ,place them in a clean baking-jar1 with a closely-fitting lid2 add to them the lemon-rind cut in strips1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 the cloves1 pounded allspice1 and sufficient water just to cover the whole1 with sugar in the above proportion4 ,cover the jar down closely1 put it into a very cool oven1 and bake the pears from #e to #f hours1 but be very careful that the oven is not too hot4 ,to improve the colour of the fruit1 a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added2 but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked4 ,time4--,large pears1 #e to #f hours1 in a very slow oven4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 to #b;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,,pear4--,the pear1 like the apple1 is indigenous to this country2 but the wild pear is a very unsatisfactory fruit4 ,the best varieties were brought from the ,east by the ,romans1 who cultivated them with care1 and probably introduced some of their best sorts into this island1 to which others were added by the inhabitants of the monasteries4 ,the ,dutch and ,flemings1 as well as the ,french1 have excelled in the cultivation of the pear1 and most of the late varieties introduced are from ,france and ,flanders4 ,the pear is a hardy tree1 and a longer liver than the apple3 it has been known to exist for centuries4 ,there are now about #aej varieties of this fruit4 ,though perfectly wholesome when ripe1 the pear is not so when green2 but in this state it is fit for stewing4 ,an agreeable beverage1 called perry1 is made from pears1 and the varieties which are least fit for eating make the best perry4 ,,preserved ,,pears4 #aege4 ,,ingredients4--,jargonelle pears2 to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,procure some ,jargonelle pears1 not too ripe2 put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them1 and simmer them till rather tender1 but do not allow them to break2 then put them into cold water4 ,boil the sugar and water together for #e minutes1 skim well1 put in the pears1 and simmer them gently for #e minutes4 ,repeat the simmering for #c successive days1 taking care not to let the fruit break4 ,the last time of boiling1 the syrup should be made rather richer1 and the fruit boiled for #aj minutes4 ,when the pears are done1 drain them from the syrup1 and dry them in the sun1 or in a cool oven2 or they may be kept in the syrup1 and dried as they are wanted4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to simmer the pears in water1 #bj minutes in the syrup4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 to #b;d4 each4 ,seasonable4--,most plentiful in ,september and ,october4 ,,stewed ,,pears4 ,illustration3 ,,stewed ,,pears4 #aegf4 ,,ingredients4--#h large pears1 #e oz4 of loaf sugar1 #f cloves1 #f whole allspice1 #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/d pint of port wine1 a few drops of prepared cochineal4 ,mode4--,pare the pears1 halve them1 remove the cores1 and leave the stalks on2 put them into a lined saucepan with the above ingredients1 and let them simmer very gently until tender1 which will be in from #c to #d hours1 according to the quality of the pears4 ,they should be watched1 and1 when done1 carefully lifted out on to a glass dish without breaking them4 ,boil up the syrup quickly for #b or #c minutes2 allow it to cool a little1 pour it over the pears1 and let them get perfectly cold4 ,to improve the colour of the fruit1 a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added1 which rather enhances the beauty of this dish4 ,the fruit must not be boiled fast1 but only simmered1 and watched that it be not too much done4 ,time4--#c to #d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,january4 ,,the ,,bon ,,chretien ,,pear4--,the valuable variety of pear called ,bon ,chrtien1 which comes to our tables in winter1 either raw or cooked1 received its name through the following incident3--,louis ,,xi41 king of ,france1 had sent for ,saint ,francois de ,paule from the lower part of ,calabria1 in the hopes of recovering his health through his intercession4 ,the saint brought with him the seeds of this pear2 and1 as he was called at court ,le ,bon ,chrtien1 this fruit obtained the name of him to whom ,france owed its introduction4 ,,pineapple ,,chips4 #aegg4 ,,ingredients4--,pineapples2 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the fruit thinly1 put it on dishes1 and strew over it plenty of pounded sugar4 ,keep it in a hot closet1 or very slow oven1 #h or #aj days1 and turn the fruit every day until dry2 then put the pieces of pine on tins1 and place them in a quick oven for #aj minutes4 ,let them cool1 and store them away in dry boxes1 with paper between each layer4 ,time4--#h to #aj days4 ,seasonable4--,foreign pines1 in ,july and ,august4 ,,preserved ,,pineapple4 #aegh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit1 weighed after being pared1 allow #a lb4 of loaf sugar2 #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,the pines for making this preserve should be perfectly sound but ripe4 ,cut them into rather thick slices1 as the fruit shrinks very much in the boiling4 ,pare off the rind carefully1 that none of the pine be wasted2 and1 in doing so1 notch it in and out1 as the edge cannot be smoothly cut without great waste4 ,dissolve a portion of the sugar in a preserving-pan with #a_/d pint of water2 when this is melted1 gradually add the remainder of the sugar1 and boil it until it forms a clear syrup1 skimming well4 ,as soon as this is the case1 put in the pieces of pine1 and boil well for at least #a_/b hour1 or until it looks nearly transparent4 ,put it into pots1 cover down when cold1 and store away in a dry place4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to boil the fruit4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 to #as4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable4--,foreign pines1 in ,july and ,august4 ,,the ,,pineapple ,,in ,,heathendom4--,heathen nations invented protective divinities for their orchards 7such as ,pomona1 ,vertumnus1 ,priapus1 c471 and benevolent patrons for their fruits3 thus1 the olive-tree grew under the auspices of ,minerva2 the ,muses cherished the palm-tree1 ,bacchus the fig and grape1 and the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great ,cyble4 ,,preserved ,,pineapple1 for ,present ,use4 #aegi4 ,,ingredients4--,pineapple1 sugar1 water4 ,mode4--,cut the pine into slices #a_/d inch in thickness2 peel them1 and remove the hard part from the middle4 ,put the parings and hard pieces into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them1 and boil for #a_/d hour4 ,strain the liquor1 and put in the slices of pine4 ,stew them for #aj minutes1 add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely1 and boil again for another #a_/d hour2 skim well1 and the preserve will be ready for use4 ,it must be eaten soon1 as it will keep but a very short time4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to boil the parings in water2 #aj minutes to boil the pine without sugar1 #a_/d hour with sugar4 ,average cost4--,foreign pines1 #as4 to #cs4 each2 ,english1 from #bs4 to #abs4 per lb4 ,seasonable4--,foreign1 in ,july and ,august2 ,english1 all the year4 ,,plum ,,jam4 #aehj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of plums1 weighed before being stoned1 allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,in making plum jam1 the quantity of sugar for each lb4 of fruit must be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit1 some plums requiring much more sugar than others4 ,divide the plums1 take out the stones1 and put them on to large dishes1 with roughly-pounded sugar sprinkled over them in the above proportion1 and let them remain for one day2 then put them into a preserving-pan1 stand them by the side of the fire to simmer gently for about #a_/b hour1 and then boil them rapidly for another #ae minutes4 ,the scum must be carefully removed as it rises1 and the jam must be well stirred all the time1 or it will burn at the bottom of the pan1 and so spoil the colour and flavour of the preserve4 ,some of the stones may be cracked1 and a few kernels added to the jam just before it is done3 these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums4 ,the above proportion of sugar would answer for ,orleans plums2 the ,impratrice ,magnum-bonum1 and ,winesour would not require quite so much4 ,time4--#a_/b hour to simmer gently1 #a_/d hour to boil rapidly4 ,best plums for preserving4--,violets1 ,mussels1 ,orleans1 ,impratrice ,magnum-bonum1 and ,winesour4 ,seasonable from the end of ,july to the beginning of ,october4 ,,plums4--,the ,damson1 or ,damascene plum1 takes its name from ,damascus1 where it grows in great quantities1 and whence it was brought into ,italy about #aad ,b4,c4 ,the ,orleans plum is from ,france4 ,the ,greengage is called after the ,gage family1 who first brought it into ,england from the monastery of the ,chartreuse1 at ,paris1 where it still bears the name of ,reine ,claude4 ,the ,magnum-bonum is our largest plum1 and greatly esteemed for preserves and culinary purposes4 ,the best sorts of plums are agreeable at the dessert1 and1 when perfectly ripe1 are wholesome2 but some are too astringent4 ,they lose much of their bad qualities by baking1 and are extensively used1 from their cheapness1 when in full season1 in tarts and preserves2 but they are not a very wholesome fruit1 and should be eaten in moderation4 ,,preserved ,,plums4 #aeha4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar2 for the thin syrup1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar to each pint of water4 ,mode4--,select large ripe plums2 slightly prick them1 to prevent them from bursting1 and simmer them very gently in a syrup made with the above proportion of sugar and water4 ,put them carefully into a pan1 let the syrup cool1 pour it over the plums1 and allow them to remain for two days4 ,having previously weighed the other sugar1 dip the lumps quickly into water1 and put them into a preserving-pan with no more water than hangs about them2 and boil the sugar to a syrup1 carefully skimming it4 ,drain the plums from the first syrup2 put them into the fresh syrup1 and simmer them very gently until they are clear2 lift them out singly into pots1 pour the syrup over1 and when cold1 cover down to exclude the air4 ,this preserve will remain good some time1 if kept in a dry place1 and makes a very nice addition to a dessert4 ,the magnum-bonum plums answer for this preserve better than any other kind of plum4 ,greengages are also very delicious done in this manner4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to #bj minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup2 #bj minutes to #a_/b hour very gentle simmering in the second4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,plums ,,dry4 #aehb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of sugar allow #a_/d pint of water4 ,mode4--,gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turning colour2 prick them1 put them into a saucepan of cold water1 and set them on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling4 ,then take them out1 drain them1 and boil them gently in syrup made with the above proportion of sugar and water2 and if the plums shrink1 and will not take the sugar1 prick them as they lie in the pan2 give them another boil1 skim1 and set them by4 ,the next day add some more sugar1 boiled almost to candy1 to the fruit and syrup2 put all together into a wide-mouthed jar1 and place them in a cool oven for #b nights2 then drain the plums from the syrup1 sprinkle a little powdered sugar over1 and dry them in a cool oven4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes to boil the plums in the syrup4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,plums4--,the wild sloe is the parent of the plum1 but the acclimated kinds come from the ,east4 ,the cultivation of this fruit was probably attended to very early in ,england1 as ,gerrard informs us that1 in #aeig1 he had in his garden1 in ,holborn1 threescore sorts4 ,the sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows1 and belongs to the natural order ,amygdaleae2 the fruit is about the size of a large pea1 of a black colour1 and covered with a bloom of a bright blue4 ,it is one of the few indigenous to our island4 ,the juice is extremely sharp and astringent1 and was formerly employed as a medicine1 where astringents were necessary4 ,it now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made to imitate port1 and also for adulteration4 ,the leaves have been used to adulterate tea2 the fruit1 when ripe1 makes a good preserve4 ,,stewed ,,french ,,plums4 7,a ,dessert ,dish47 #aehc4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of ,french plums1 #c_/d pint of syrup ,no4 #aeab1 #a glass of port wine1 the rind and juice of #a lemon4 ,mode4--,stew the plums gently in water for #a hour2 strain the water1 and with it make the syrup4 ,when it is clear1 put in the plums with the port wine1 lemon-juice1 and rind1 and simmer very gently for #a-a_/b hour4 ,arrange the plums on a glass dish1 take out the lemon-rind1 pour the syrup over the plums1 and1 when cold1 they will be ready for table4 ,a little allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons considered an improvement4 ,time4--#a hour to stew the plums in water1 #a-a_/b hour in the syrup4 ,average cost1--plums sufficiently good for stewing1 #as4 per lb4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable in winter4 ,,preserved ,,pumpkin4 #aehd4 ,,ingredients4--,to each lb4 of pumpkin allow #a lb4 of roughly pounded loaf sugar1 #a gill of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,obtain a good sweet pumpkin2 halve it1 take out the seeds1 and pare off the rind2 cut it into neat slices1 or into pieces about the size of a five-shilling piece4 ,weigh the pumpkin1 put the slices in a pan or deep dish in layers1 with the sugar sprinkled between them2 pour the lemon-juice over the top1 and let the whole remain for #b or #c days4 ,boil altogether1 adding #a_/d pint of water to every #c lbs4 of sugar used until the pumpkin becomes tender2 then turn the whole into a pan1 where let it remain for a week2 then drain off the syrup1 boil it until it is quite thick2 skim1 and pour it1 boiling1 over the pumpkin4 ,a little bruised ginger and lemon-rind1 thinly pared1 may be boiled in the syrup to flavour the pumpkin4 ,time4--,from #a_/b to #c_/d hour to boil the pumpkin tender4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 to #g;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable in ,september and ,october2 but better when made in the latter month1 as the pumpkin is then quite ripe4 ,note4--,vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same manner1 but are not quite so rich4 ,,quince ,,jelly4 #aehe4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of juice allow #a lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pare and slice the quinces1 and put them into a preserving-pan with sufficient water to float them4 ,boil them until tender1 and the fruit is reduced to a pulp2 strain off the clear juice1 and to each pint allow the above proportion of loaf sugar4 ,boil the juice and sugar together for about #c_/d hour2 remove all the scum as it rises1 and1 when the jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate1 it is done4 ,the residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common marmalade1 for immediate use1 by boiling it with #a_/b lb4 of common sugar to every lb4 of pulp4 ,time4--#c hours to boil the quinces in water2 #c_/d hour to boil the jelly4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #aj;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable from ,august to ,october4 ,,quince ,,marmalade4 #aehf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of quince pulp allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,slice the quinces into a preserving-pan1 adding sufficient water for them to float2 place them on the fire to stew1 until reduced to a pulp1 keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom1 to prevent their burning2 then pass the pulp through a hair sieve1 to keep back the skin and seeds4 ,weigh the pulp1 and to each lb4 add lump sugar in the above proportion1 broken very small4 ,place the whole on the fire1 and keep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon1 until reduced to a marmalade1 which may be known by dropping a little on a cold plate1 when1 if it jellies1 it is done4 ,put it into jars whilst hot2 let it cool1 and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the size of the mouths of the jars4 ,the tops of them may be afterwards covered with pieces of bladder1 or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg4 ,time4--#c hours to boil the quinces without the sugar2 #c_/d hour to boil the pulp with the sugar4 ,average cost1 from #h;d4 to #i;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a pint of sliced quinces for a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable in ,august1 ,september1 and ,october4 ,,raisin ,,cheese4 #aehg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of raisins allow a lb4 of loaf sugar2 pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste4 ,mode4--,stone the raisins2 put them into a stewpan with the sugar1 cinnamon1 and cloves1 and let them boil for #a-a_/b hour1 stirring all the time4 ,let the preparation cool a little1 pour it into a glass dish1 and garnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron4 ,this will remain good some time1 if kept in a dry place4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient4--#a lb4 for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,raspberry ,,jam4 #aehh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of raspberries allow #a lb4 of sugar1 #a_/d pint of red-currant juice4 ,mode4--,let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather1 and used as soon after it is picked as possible4 ,take off the stalks1 put the raspberries into a preserving-pan1 break them well with a wooden spoon1 and let them boil for #a_/d hour1 keeping them well stirred4 ,then add the currant-juice and sugar1 and boil again for #a_/b hour4 ,skim the jam well after the sugar is added1 or the preserve will not be clear4 ,the addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to this preserve1 as it gives it a piquant taste1 which the flavour of the raspberries seems to require4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar2 #a_/d hour after it is added4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,allow about #a pint of fruit to fill a #a-lb4 pot4 ,seasonable in ,july and ,august4 ,,raspberry ,,jelly4 #aehi4 ,,ingredients4--,to each pint of juice allow #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,let the raspberries be freshly gathered1 quite ripe1 and picked from the stalks2 put them into a large jar1 after breaking the fruit a little with a wooden spoon1 and place this jar1 covered1 in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,when the juice is well drawn1 which will be in from #c_/d to #a hour1 strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth2 measure the juice1 and to every pint allow the above proportion of loaf sugar4 ,put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan1 place it over the fire1 and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is poured on a plate2 carefully remove all the scum as it rises1 pour the jelly into small pots1 cover down1 and keep in a dry place4 ,this jelly answers for making raspberry cream1 and for flavouring various sweet dishes1 when1 in winter1 the fresh fruit is not obtainable4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour to draw the juice4 ,average cost1 from #i;d4 to #as4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,from #c pints to #b quarts of fruit should yield #a pint of juice4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made in ,july or ,august4 ,,rhubarb ,,jam4 #aeij4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of rhubarb allow #a lb4 of loaf sugar1 the rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,mode4--,wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry1 take off the string or peel1 and weigh it2 put it into a preserving-pan1 with sugar in the above proportion2 mince the lemon-rind very finely1 add it to the other ingredients1 and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire2 keep stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning1 and when the sugar is well dissolved1 put the pan more over the fire1 and let the jam boil until it is done1 taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with a wooden or silver spoon4 ,pour it into pots1 and cover down with oiled and egged papers4 ,time4--,if the rhubarb is young and tender1 #c_/d hour1 reckoning from the time it simmers equally2 old rhubarb1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 to #g;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--,about #a pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb4 pot4 ,seasonable from ,february to ,april4 ,,rhubarb ,,and ,,orange ,,jam1 to resemble ,scotch ,marmalade4 #aeia4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart of finely-cut rhubarb1 #f oranges1 #a-a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,peel the oranges2 remove as much of the white pith as possible1 divide them1 and take out the pips2 slice the pulp into a preserving-pan1 add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips1 and the loaf sugar1 which should be broken small4 ,peel the rhubarb1 cut it into thin pieces1 put it to the oranges1 and stir altogether over a gentle fire until the jam is done4 ,remove all the scum as it rises1 put the preserve into pots1 and1 when cold1 cover down4 ,should the rhubarb be very old1 stew it alone for #a_/d hour before the other ingredients are added4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,seasonable from ,february to ,april4 ,,raspberry ,,and ,,currant1 or any ,fresh ,fruit ,salad4 7,a ,dessert ,dish47 #aeib4 ,mode4--,fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from the stalks1 piling it on a dish1 and sprinkling over it finely-pounded sugar4 ,they may be made of strawberries1 raspberries1 currants1 or any of these fruits mixed2 peaches also make a very good salad4 ,after the sugar is sprinkled over1 about #f large tablespoonfuls of wine or brandy1 or #c tablespoonfuls of liqueur1 should be poured in the middle of the fruit2 and1 when the flavour is liked1 a little pounded cinnamon may be added4 ,in helping the fruit1 it should be lightly stirred1 that the wine and sugar may be equally distributed4 ,sufficient4--#a-a_/b pint of fruit1 with #c oz4 of pounded sugar1 for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable in summer4 ,,strawberries ,,and ,,cream4 #aeic4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of picked strawberries allow #a_/c pint of cream1 #b oz4 of finely-pounded sugar4 ,mode4--,pick the stalks from the fruit1 place it on a glass dish1 sprinkle over it pounded sugar1 and slightly stir the strawberries1 that they may all be equally sweetened2 pour the cream over the top1 and serve4 ,devonshire cream1 when it can be obtained1 is exceedingly delicious for this dish2 and1 if very thick indeed1 may be diluted with a little thin cream or milk4 ,average cost for this quantity1 with cream at #as4 per pint1 #as4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable in ,june and ,july4 ,,strawberry ,,jam4 #aeid4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #a_/b pint of red-currant juice1 #a-a_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,strip the currants from the stalks1 put them into a jar2 place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water1 and simmer until the juice is well drawn from the fruit2 strain the currants1 measure the juice1 put it into a preserving-pan1 and add the sugar4 ,select well-ripened but sound strawberries2 pick them from the stalks1 and when the sugar is dissolved in the currant juice1 put in the fruit4 ,simmer the whole over a moderate fire1 from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 carefully removing the scum as it rises4 ,stir the jam only enough to prevent it from burning at the bottom of the pan1 as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible4 ,put the jam into jars1 and when cold1 cover down4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour1 reckoning from the time the jam simmers all over4 ,average cost1 from #g;d4 to #h;d4 per lb4 pot4 ,sufficient4--#ab pints of strawberries will make #ab lb4 pots of jam4 ,seasonable in ,june and ,july4 ,,preserved ,,strawberries ,,in ,,wine4 #aeie4 ,,ingredients4--,to every quart bottle allow #a_/d lb4 of finely-pounded loaf sugar2 sherry or ,madeira4 ,mode4--,let the fruit be gathered in fine weather1 and used as soon as picked4 ,have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles1 and some nice soft corks or bungs4 ,pick the stalks from the strawberries1 drop them into the bottles1 sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in the above proportion1 and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the bottle1 fill up with sherry or ,madeira4 ,cork the bottles down with new corks1 and dip them into melted resin4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,june or ,july4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,strawberries ,,whole4 #aeif4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of fruit allow #a-a_/b lb4 of good loaf sugar1 #a pint of red-currant juice4 ,mode4--,choose the strawberries not too ripe1 of a fine large sort and of a good colour4 ,pick off the stalks1 lay the strawberries in a dish1 and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar1 which must be finely pounded4 ,shake the dish gently1 that the sugar may be equally distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit1 and let it remain for #a day4 ,then have ready the currant-juice1 drawn as for red-currant jelly ,no4 #aecc2 boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thin syrup1 and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar1 until the whole is sufficiently jellied4 ,great care must be taken not to stir the fruit roughly1 as it should be preserved as whole as possible4 ,strawberries prepared in this manner are very good served in glasses and mixed with thin cream4 ,time4--#a_/d hour to #bj minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup4 ,seasonable in ,june and ,july4 ,,to ,,make ,,everton ,,toffee4 #aeig4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of powdered loaf sugar1 #a teacupful of water1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #f drops of essence of lemon4 ,mode4--,put the water and sugar into a brass pan1 and beat the butter to a cream4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 add the butter1 and keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets1 when a little is poured on to a buttered dish2 and just before the toffee is done1 add the essence of lemon4 ,butter a dish or tin1 pour on it the mixture1 and when cool1 it will easily separate from the dish4 ,butter-,scotch1 an excellent thing for coughs1 is made with brown1 instead of white sugar1 omitting the water1 and flavoured with #a_/b oz4 of powdered ginger4 ,it is made in the same manner as toffee4 ,time4--#ah to #ce minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient to make a lb4 of toffee4 ,,dessert ,,dishes4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,nuts4 ,illustration3 ,,box ,,of ,,french ,,plums4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,mixed ,,fruit4 #aeih4 ,the tazza1 or dish with stem1 the same as that shown in our illustrations1 is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes4 ,the fruit can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes than on the short flat ones4 ,all the dishes are now usually placed down the centre of the table1 dried and fresh fruit alternately1 the former being arranged on small round or oval glass plates1 and the latter on the dishes with stems4 ,the fruit should always be gathered on the same day that it is required for table1 and should be tastefully arranged on the dishes1 with leaves between and round it4 ,by purchasing fruits that are in season1 a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost4 ,these1 with a few fancy biscuits1 crystallized fruit1 bon-bons1 c41 are sufficient for an ordinary dessert4 ,when fresh fruit cannot be obtained1 dried and foreign fruits1 compotes1 baked pears1 stewed ,normandy pippins1 c4 c41 must supply its place1 with the addition of preserves1 bon-bons1 cakes1 biscuits1 c4 ,at fashionable tables1 forced fruit is served growing in pots1 these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones1 and arranged with the other dishes4--7,see coloured plate ,w#a47 ,a few vases of fresh flowers1 tastefully arranged1 add very much to the appearance of the dessert2 and1 when these are not obtainable1 a few paper ones1 mixed with green leaves1 answer very well as a substitute4 ,in decorating a table1 whether for luncheon1 dessert1 or supper1 a vase or two of flowers should never be forgotten1 as they add so much to the elegance of the tout ensemble4 ,in summer and autumn1 ladies residing in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers on their tables1 and should never be without this inexpensive luxury4 ,on the continent1 vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances4 ,ices for dessert are usually moulded3 when this is not the case1 they are handed round in glasses with wafers to accompany them4 ,preserved ginger is frequently handed round after ices1 to prepare the palate for the delicious dessert wines4 ,a basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugar must never be omitted at a dessert1 as also a glass jug of fresh cold water 7iced1 if possible71 and two goblets by its side4 ,grape-scissors1 a melon-knife and fork1 and nutcrackers1 should always be put on table1 if there are dishes of fruit requiring them4 ,zests are sometimes served at the close of the dessert2 such as anchovy toasts or biscuits4 ,the ,french often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or dried fruit4 ,at some tables1 finger-glasses are placed at the right of each person1 nearly half filled with cold spring water1 and in winter with tepid water4 ,these precede the dessert4 ,at other tables1 a glass or vase is simply handed round1 filled with perfumed water1 into which each guest dips the corner of his napkin1 and1 when needful1 refreshes his lips and the tips of his fingers4 ,illustration3 ,,box ,,of ,,chocolate4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,apples4 ,illustration3 ,,almonds ,,and ,,raisins4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,strawberries4 ,after the dishes are placed1 and every one is provided with plates1 glasses1 spoons1 c41 the wine should be put at each end of the table1 cooled or otherwise1 according to the season4 ,if the party be small1 the wine may be placed only at the top of the table1 near the host4 ,,dish ,,of ,,nuts4 #aeii4 ,these are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish1 as shown in the engraving1 with or without leaves round the edge4 ,filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them2 and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth1 and then--with a dry one1 to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have4 ,seasonable4--,filberts from ,september to ,march1 good2 may be had after that time1 but are generally shrivelled and dry4 ,walnuts from ,september to ,january4 ,,hazel ,,nut ,,and ,,filbert4--,the common ,hazel is the wild1 and the ,filbert the cultivated state of the same tree4 ,the hazel is found wild1 not only in forests and hedges1 in dingles and ravines1 but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and mountainous parts of the country4 ,it was formerly one of the most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this island4 ,it is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree1 though perhaps its nuts are superior in flavour to the others4 ,the ,spanish nuts imported are a superior kind1 but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible4 ,filberts1 both the red and the white1 and the cob-nut1 are supposed to be merely varieties of the common hazel1 which have been produced1 partly by the superiority of soil and climate1 and partly by culture4 ,they were originally brought out of ,greece to ,italy1 whence they have found their way to ,holland1 and from that country to ,england4 ,it is supposed that1 within a few miles of ,maidstone1 in ,kent1 there are more filberts grown than in all ,england besides2 and it is from that place that the ,london market is supplied4 ,the filbert is longer than the common nut1 though of the same thickness1 and has a larger kernel4 ,the cob-nut is a still larger variety1 and is roundish4 ,filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common nuts1 and are generally eaten with salt4 ,they are very free from oil1 and disagree with few persons4 ,,walnuts4--,the ,walnut is a native of ,persia1 the ,caucasus1 and ,china1 but was introduced to this kingdom from ,france4 ,the ripe kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable flavour2 and the fruit is also much used in the green state1 but before the stone hardens1 as a pickle4 ,in ,spain1 grated walnuts are employed in tarts and other dishes4 ,the ,walnut abounds in oil which is expressed and which1 being of a highly drying nature1 and very limpid1 is much employed for delicate painting4 ,this1 on the continent1 is sometimes used as a substitute for olive-oil in cooking1 but is very apt to turn rancid4 ,it is also manufactured into a kind of soap4 ,the mare1 or refuse matter after the oil is extracted1 proves very nutritious for poultry or other domestic animals4 ,in ,switzerland1 this is eaten by poor people under the name of pain amer4 ,,box ,,of ,,french ,,plums4 #afjj4 ,if the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental1 it may be placed on the table2 if small1 on a glass dish2 if large1 without one1 ,french plums may also be arranged on a glass plate1 and garnished with bright-coloured sweetmeats1 which make a very good effect4 ,all fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table or not1 at pleasure4 ,these little matters of detail must1 of course1 be left to individual taste4 ,seasonable4--,may be purchased all the year2 but are in greater perfection in the winter1 and are more suitable for that season1 as fresh fruit cannot be obtained4 ,,dish ,,of ,,mixed ,,fruit4 #afja4 ,for a centre dish1 a mixture of various fresh fruits has a remarkably good effect1 particularly if a pine be added to the list4 ,a high raised appearance should be given to the fruit1 which is done in the following manner4 ,place a tumbler in the centre of the dish1 and1 in this tumbler1 the pine1 crown uppermost2 round the tumbler put a thick layer of moss1 and1 over this1 apples1 pears1 plums1 peaches1 and such fruit as is simultaneously in season4 ,by putting a layer of moss underneath1 so much fruit is not required1 besides giving a better shape to the dish4 ,grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit1 a portion of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a nglig kind of manner1 which takes off the formal look of the dish4 ,in arranging the plums1 apples1 c41 let the colours contrast well4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for a dessert in ,september or ,october4 ,,grapes4--,france produces about a thousand varieties of the grape1 which is cultivated more extensively in that country than in any other4 ,hygienists agree in pronouncing grapes as among the best of fruits4 ,the grape possesses several rare qualities3 it is nourishing and fattening1 and its prolonged use has often overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation4 ,the skins and pips of grapes should not be eaten4 ,,box ,,of ,,chocolate4 #afjb4 ,this is served in an ornamental box1 placed on a glass plate or dish4 ,seasonable4--,may be purchased at any time4 ,,dish ,,of ,,apples4 #afjc4 ,the apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth1 and arranged on a dish1 piled high in the centre1 with evergreen leaves between each layer4 ,the inferior apples should form the bottom layer1 with the bright-coloured large ones at the top4 ,the leaves of the laurel1 bay1 holly1 or any shrub green in winter1 are suitable for garnishing dessert dishes4 ,oranges may be arranged in the same manner2 they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table4 ,,dish ,,of ,,mixed ,,summer ,,fruit4 #afjd4 ,this dish consists of cherries1 raspberries1 currants1 and strawberries1 piled in different layers1 with plenty of leaves between each layer2 so that each fruit is well separated4 ,the fruit should be arranged with a due regard to colour1 so that they contrast nicely one with the other4 ,our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the bottom1 then one of red raspberries2 over that a layer of white currants1 and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries4 ,seasonable in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,,almonds ,,and ,,raisins4 #afje4 ,these are usually served on glass dishes1 the fruit piled high in the centre1 and the almonds blanched1 and strewn over4 ,to blanch the almonds1 put them into a small mug or teacup1 pour over them boiling water1 let them remain for #b or #c minutes1 and the skins may then be easily removed4 ,figs1 dates1 ,french plums1 c41 are all served on small glass plates or oval dishes1 but without the almonds4 ,seasonable at any time1 but more suitable in winter1 when fresh fruit is not obtainable4 ,,dates4--,dates are imported into ,britain1 in a dried state1 from ,barbary and ,egypt1 and1 when in good condition1 they are much esteemed4 ,an inferior kind has lately become common1 which are dried hard1 and have little or no flavour4 ,they should be chosen large1 softish1 not much wrinkled1 of a reddish-yellow colour on the outside1 with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the stone4 ,,dish ,,of ,,strawberries4 #afjf4 ,fine strawberries1 arranged in the manner shown in the engraving1 look exceedingly well4 ,the inferior ones should be placed at the bottom of the dish1 and the others put in rows pyramidically1 with the stalks downwards2 so that when the whole is completed1 nothing but the red part of the fruit is visible4 ,the fruit should be gathered with rather long stalks1 as there is then something to support it1 and it can be placed more upright in each layer4 ,a few of the finest should be reserved to crown the top4 ,,to ,,have ,,walnuts ,,fresh ,,throughout ,,the ,,season4 #afjg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of water allow #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,place the walnuts in the salt and water for #bd hours at least2 then take them out1 and rub them dry4 ,old nuts may be freshened in this manner2 or walnuts1 when first picked1 may be put into an earthen pan with salt sprinkled amongst them1 and with damped hay placed on the top of them1 and then covered down with a lid4 ,they must be well wiped before they are put on table4 ,seasonable4--,should be stored away in ,september or ,october4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,milk1 ,,butter1 ,,cheese1 ,,and ,,eggs4 ,,milk4 #afjh4 ,milk is obtained only from the class of animals called ,mammalia1 and is intended by ,nature for the nourishment of their young4 ,the milk of each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities2 but as that of the cow is by far the most useful to us in this part of the world1 our observations will be confined to that variety4 #afji4 ,milk1 when drawn from the cow1 is of a yellowish-white colour1 and is the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation4 ,its taste is agreeable1 and rather saccharine4 ,the viscidity and specific gravity of milk are somewhat greater than that of water2 but these properties vary somewhat in the milk procured from different individuals4 ,on an average1 the specific gravity of milk is #a4jce1 water being #a4 ,the small cows of the ,alderney breed afford the richest milk4 #afaj4 ,milk which is carried to a considerable distance1 so as to be much agitated1 and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream1 never throws up so much1 nor such rich cream1 as if the same milk had been put into pans directly after it was milked4 #afaa4 ,milk1 considered as an aliment1 is of such importance in domestic economy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely valuable4 ,to enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary2 it has always been a favourite food in ,britain4 ,lacte et carno vivunt1 says ,caesar1 in his ,commentaries2 the ,english of which is1 the inhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk4 ,the breed of the cow has received great improvement in modern times1 as regards the quantity and quality of the milk which she affords2 the form of milch-cows1 their mode of nourishment1 and progress1 are also manifest in the management of the dairy4 #afab4 ,although milk in its natural state be a fluid1 yet1 considered as an aliment1 it is both solid and fluid3 for no sooner does it enter the stomach1 than it is coagulated by the gastric juice1 and separated into curd and whey1 the first of these being extremely nutritive4 #afac4 ,milk of the human subject is much thinner than cow's milk2 ,ass's milk comes the nearest to human milk of any other2 ,goat's milk is something thicker and richer than cow's milk2 ,ewe's milk has the appearance of cow's milk1 and affords a larger quantity of cream2 ,mare's milk contains more sugar than that of the ewe2 ,camel's milk is used only in ,africa2 ,buffalo's milk is employed in ,india4 #afad4 ,from no other substance1 solid or fluid1 can so great a number of distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk2 some forming food1 others drink2 some of them delicious1 and deserving the name of luxuries2 all of them wholesome1 and some medicinal3 indeed1 the variety of aliments that seems capable of being produced from milk1 appears to be quite endless4 ,in every age this must have been a subject for experiment1 and every nation has added to the number by the invention of some peculiarity of its own4 ,,butter4 #afae4 ,,beckman1 in his ,history of ,inventions1 states that butter was not used either by the ,greeks or ,romans in cooking1 nor was it brought upon their tables at certain meals1 as is the custom at present4 ,in ,england it has been made from time immemorial1 though the art of making cheese is said not to have been known to the ancient ,britons1 and to have been learned from their conquerors4 #afaf4 ,the taste of butter is peculiar1 and very unlike any other fatty substance4 ,it is extremely agreeable when of the best quality2 but its flavour depends much upon the food given to the cows3 to be good1 it should not adhere to the knife4 #afag4 ,butter1 with regard to its dietetic properties1 may be regarded nearly in the light of vegetable oils and animal fats2 but it becomes sooner rancid than most other fat oils4 ,when fresh1 it cannot but be considered as very wholesome2 but it should be quite free from rancidity4 ,if slightly salted when it is fresh1 its wholesomeness is probably not at all impaired2 but should it begin to turn rancid1 salting will not correct its unwholesomeness4 ,when salt butter is put into casks1 the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid1 and this rancidity is also liable to affect the whole cask4 #afah4 ,epping butter is the kind most esteemed in ,london4 ,fresh butter comes to ,london from ,buckinghamshire1 ,suffolk1 ,oxfordshire1 ,yorkshire1 ,devonshire1 c4 ,cambridge butter is esteemed next to fresh2 ,devonshire butter is nearly similar in quality to the latter2 ,irish butter sold in ,london is all salted1 but is generally good4 ,the number of firkins exported annually from ,ireland amounts to #dbj1jjj1 equal to a million of money4 ,dutch butter is in good repute all over ,europe1 ,america1 and even ,india2 and no country in the world is so successful in the manufacture of this article1 ,holland supplying more butter to the rest of the world than any country whatever4 #afai4 ,there are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter4 ,in one1 the cream is separated from the milk1 and in that state it is converted into butter by churning1 as is the practice about ,epping2 in the other1 milk is subjected to the same process1 which is the method usually followed in ,cheshire4 ,the first method is generally said to give the richest butter1 and the latter the largest quantity1 though some are of opinion that there is little difference either in quality or quantity4 ,,cheese4 #afbj4 ,,cheese is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation1 pressed and dried for use4 ,curd1 called also casein and caseous matter1 or the basis of cheese1 exists in the milk1 and not in the cream1 and requires only to be separated by coagulation4 ,the coagulation1 however1 supposes some alteration of the curd4 ,by means of the substance employed to coagulate it1 it is rendered insoluble in water4 ,when the curd is freed from the whey1 kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely1 it becomes cheese4 ,this assumes a degree of transparency1 and possesses many of the properties of coagulated albumen4 ,if it be well dried1 it does not change by exposure to the air2 but if it contain moisture1 it soon putrefies4 ,it therefore requires some salt to preserve it1 and this acts likewise as a kind of seasoning4 ,all our cheese is coloured more or less1 except that made from skim milk4 ,the colouring substances employed are arnatto1 turmeric1 or marigold1 all perfectly harmless unless they are adulterated2 and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains red lead4 #afba4 ,cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materials of which it is composed4 ,it is made--#a4 ,of entire milk1 as in ,cheshire2 #b4 of milk and cream1 as at ,stilton2 #c4 of new milk mixed with skimmed milk1 as in ,gloucestershire2 #d4 of skimmed milk only1 as in ,suffolk1 ,holland1 and ,italy4 #afbb4 ,the principal varieties of cheese used in ,england are the following3--,cheshire cheese1 famed all over ,europe for its rich quality and fine piquant flavour4 ,it is made of entire new milk1 the cream not being taken off4 ,gloucester cheese is much milder in its taste than the ,cheshire4 ,there are two kinds of ,gloucester cheese1--single and double4 ,single ,gloucester is made of skimmed milk1 or of the milk deprived of half the cream2 ,double ,gloucester is a cheese that pleases almost every palate3 it is made of the whole milk and cream4 ,stilton cheese is made by adding the cream of one day to the entire milk of the next3 it was first made at ,stilton1 in ,leicestershire4 ,sage cheese is so called from the practice of colouring some curd with bruised sage1 marigold-leaves1 and parsley1 and mixing this with some uncoloured curd4 ,with the ,romans1 and during the middle ages1 this practice was extensively adopted4 ,cheddar cheese much resembles ,parmesan4 ,it has a very agreeable taste and flavour1 and has a spongy appearance4 ,brickbat cheese has nothing remarkable except its form4 ,it is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new milk4 ,the curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick1 and is then pressed and dried in the usual way4 ,dunlop cheese has a peculiarly mild and rich taste3 the best is made entirely from new milk4 ,new cheese 7as it is called in ,london7 is made chiefly in ,lincolnshire1 and is either made of all cream1 or1 like ,stilton4 by adding the cream of one day's milking to the milk that comes immediately from the cow3 they are extremely thin1 and are compressed gently two or three times1 turned for a few days1 and then eaten new with radishes1 salad1 c4 ,skimmed ,milk cheese is made for sea voyages principally4 ,parmesan cheese is made in ,parma and ,piacenza4 ,it is the most celebrated of all cheese3 it is made entirely of skimmed cow's milk4 ,the high flavour which it has1 is supposed to be owing to the rich herbage of the meadows of the ,po1 where the cows are pastured4 ,the best ,parmesan is kept for three or four years1 and none is carried to market till it is at least six months old4 ,dutch cheese derives its peculiar pungent taste from the practice adopted in ,holland of coagulating the milk with muriatic acid instead of rennet4 ,swiss cheeses in their several varieties are all remarkable for their fine flavour4 ,that from ,gruyre1 a bailiwick in the canton of ,fribourg1 is best known in ,england4 ,it is flavoured by the dried herb of ,melilotos officinalis in powder4 ,cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in ,thuringia and ,saxony4 ,cream cheese1 although so called1 is not properly cheese1 but is nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife4 ,,eggs4 #afbc4 ,there is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs1 although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary somewhat4 ,those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food1 particularly when new-laid4 ,the quality of eggs depends much upon the food given to the hen4 ,eggs in general are considered most easily digestible when little subjected to the art of cookery4 ,the lightest way of dressing them is by poaching1 which is effected by putting them for a minute or two into brisk boiling water3 this coagulates the external white1 without doing the inner part too much4 ,eggs are much better when new-laid than a day or two afterwards4 ,the usual time allotted for boiling eggs in the shell is #c to #c-c_/d minutes3 less time than that in boiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white1 and more will make the yolk hard and less digestible3 it is very difficult to guess accurately as to the time4 ,great care should be employed in putting them into the water1 to prevent cracking the shell1 which inevitably causes a portion of the white to exude1 and lets water into the egg4 ,eggs are often beaten up raw in nutritive beverages4 #afbd4 ,eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cookery1 entres1 and entremets1 and they form an essential ingredient in pastry1 creams1 flip1 c4 ,it is particularly necessary that they should be quite fresh1 as nothing is worse than stale eggs4 ,cobbett justly says1 stale1 or even preserved eggs1 are things to be run from1 not after4 #afbe4 ,the ,metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of the kingdom1 and they are likewise largely imported from various places on the continent2 as ,france1 ,holland1 ,belgium1 ,guernsey1 and ,jersey4 ,it appears from official statements mentioned in ,mc,culloch's ,commercial ,dictionary1 that the number imported from ,france alone amounts to about #fj1jjj1jjj a year2 and supposing them on an average to cost fourpence a dozen1 it follows that we pay our continental neighbours above #hc1jjj a year for eggs4 #afbf4 ,the eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour4 ,those of the ostrich are the largest3 one laid in the menagerie in ,paris weighed #b lbs4 #ad oz41 held a pint1 and was six inches deep3 this is about the usual size of those brought from ,africa4 ,travellers describe ostrich eggs as of an agreeable taste3 they keep longer than hen's eggs4 ,drinking-cups are often made of the shell1 which is very strong4 ,the eggs of the turkey are almost as mild as those of the hen2 the egg of the goose is large1 but well-tasted4 ,duck's eggs have a rich flavour2 the albumen is slightly transparent1 or bluish1 when set or coagulated by boiling1 which requires less time than hen's eggs4 ,guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen4 ,eggs of wild fowl are generally coloured1 often spotted2 and the taste generally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to4 ,those of land birds that are eaten1 as the plover1 lapwing1 ruff1 c41 are in general much esteemed2 but those of sea-fowl have1 more or less1 a strong fishy taste4 ,the eggs of the turtle are very numerous3 they consist of yolk only1 without shell1 and are delicious4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,,separation ,,of ,,milk ,,and ,,cream4 #afbg4 ,if it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely from cream1 it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish1 not more than #a-a_/b inch deep1 as cream cannot rise through a great depth of milk4 ,in cold and wet weather1 milk is not so rich as it is in summer and warm weather1 and the morning's milk is always richer than the evening's4 ,the last-drawn milk of each milking1 at all times and seasons1 is richer than the first-drawn1 and on that account should be set apart for cream4 ,milk should be shaken as little as possible when carried from the cow to the dairy1 and should be poured into the pans very gently4 ,persons not keeping cows1 may always have a little cream1 provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated4 ,as soon as it comes in1 it should be poured into very shallow open pie-dishes1 and set by in a very cool place1 and in #g or #h hours a nice cream should have risen to the surface4 ,,milk is one of the most complete of all articles of food3 that is to say1 it contains a very large number of the elements which enter into the composition of the human body4 ,it disagrees with fat1 heavy1 languid people1 of slow circulation2 and1 at first1 with many people of sedentary habits1 and stomachs weakened by stimulants of different kinds4 ,but1 if exercise can be taken and a little patience shown1 while the system accommodates itself to a new regimen1 this bland and soothing article of diet is excellent for the majority of thin1 nervous people2 especially for those who have suffered much from emotional disturbances1 or have relaxed their stomachs by too much tea or coffee1 taken too hot4 ,milk is1 in fact1 a nutrient and a sedative at once4 ,stomachs1 however1 have their idiosyncrasies1 and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and ill-digested article of food4 ,as milk1 when good1 contains a good deal of respiratory material 7fat71--material which must either be burnt off1 or derange the liver1 and be rejected in other ways1 it may disagree because the lungs are not sufficiently used in the open air4 ,but it is very probable that there are really constitutions which cannot take to it2 and they should not be forced4 ,,to ,,keep ,,milk ,,and ,,cream ,,in ,,hot ,,weather4 #afbh4 ,when the weather is very warm1 and it is very difficult to prevent milk from turning sour and spoiling the cream1 it should be scalded1 and it will then remain good for a few hours4 ,it must on no account be allowed to boil1 or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon the milk2 and the slower the process1 the safer will it be4 ,a very good plan to scald milk1 is to put the pan that contains it into a saucepan or wide kettle of boiling water4 ,when the surface looks thick1 the milk is sufficiently scalded1 and it should then be put away in a cool place in the same vessel that it was scalded in4 ,cream may be kept for #bd hours1 if scalded without sugar2 and by the addition of the latter ingredient1 it will remain good double the time1 if kept in a cool place4 ,all pans1 jugs1 and vessels intended for milk1 should be kept beautifully clean1 and well scalded before the milk is put in1 as any negligence in this respect may cause large quantities of it to be spoiled2 and milk should never be kept in vessels of zinc or copper4 ,milk may be preserved good in hot weather1 for a few hours1 by placing the jug which contains it in ice1 or very cold water2 or a pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be introduced into the liquid4 ,,milk1 when of good quality1 is of an opaque white colour3 the cream always comes to the top2 the well-known milky odour is strong2 it will boil without altering its appearance1 in these respects2 the little bladders which arise on the surface will renew themselves if broken by the spoon4 ,to boil milk is1 in fact1 the simplest way of testing its quality4 ,the commonest adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character4 ,it is a good deal thinned with water1 and sometimes thickened with a little starch1 or colored with yolk of egg1 or even saffron2 but these processes have nothing murderous in them4 ,,curds ,,and ,,whey4 #afbi4 ,,ingredients4--,a very small piece of rennet1 #a_/b gallon of milk4 ,mode4--,procure from the butcher's a small piece of rennet1 which is the stomach of the calf1 taken as soon as it is killed1 scoured1 and well rubbed with salt1 and stretched on sticks to dry4 ,pour some boiling water on the rennet1 and let it remain for #f hours2 then use the liquor to turn the milk4 ,the milk should be warm and fresh from the cow3 if allowed to cool1 it must be heated till it is of a degree quite equal to new milk2 but do not let it be too hot4 ,about a tablespoonful or rather more1 would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of milk into curds and whey2 and whilst the milk is turning1 let it be kept in rather a warm place4 ,time4--,from #b to #c hours to turn the milk4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,devonshire ,,cream4 #afcj4 ,the milk should stand #bd hours in the winter1 half that time when the weather is very warm4 ,the milkpan is then set on a stove1 and should there remain until the milk is quite hot2 but it must not boil1 or there will be a thick skin on the surface4 ,when it is sufficiently done1 the undulations on the surface look thick1 and small rings appear4 ,the time required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat of the fire2 but the slower it is done1 the better4 ,the pan should be placed in the dairy when the cream is sufficiently scalded1 and skimmed the following day4 ,this cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the ,london markets in small square tins1 and is exceedingly delicious eaten with fresh fruit4 ,in ,devonshire1 butter is made from this cream1 and is usually very firm4 ,,devonshire ,,junket4 #afca4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of new milk allow #b dessertspoonfuls of brandy1 #a dessertspoonful of sugar1 and #a-a_/b dessertspoonful of prepared rennet2 thick cream1 pounded cinnamon1 or grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,make the milk blood-warm2 put it into a deep dish with the brandy1 sugar1 and rennet2 stir it altogether1 and cover it over until it is set4 ,then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top1 grate some nutmeg1 and strew some sugar over1 and the dish will be ready to serve4 ,time4--,about #b hours to set the milk4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,keep ,,and ,,choose ,,fresh ,,butter4 #afcb4 ,fresh butter should be kept in a dark1 cool place1 and in as large a mass as possible4 ,mould as much only as is required1 as the more surface is exposed1 the more liability there will be to spoil2 and the outside very soon becomes rancid4 ,fresh butter should be kept covered with white paper4 ,for small larders1 butter-coolers of red brick are now very much used for keeping fresh butter in warm weather4 ,these coolers are made with a large bell-shaped cover1 into the top of which a little cold water should be poured1 and in summer time very frequently changed2 and the butter must be kept covered4 ,these coolers keep butter remarkably firm in hot weather1 and are extremely convenient for those whose larder accommodation is limited4 ,illustration3 ,,butter-,,dish4 ,in choosing fresh butter1 remember it should smell deliciously1 and be of an equal colour all through3 if it smells sour1 it has not been sufficiently washed from the buttermilk2 and if veiny and open1 it has probably been worked with a staler or an inferior sort4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,and ,,to ,,choose ,,salt ,,butter4 #afcc4 ,in large families1 where salt butter is purchased a tub at a time1 the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out1 and1 with a clean knife1 to scrape the outside2 the tub should then be wiped with a clean cloth1 and sprinkled all round with salt1 the butter replaced1 and the lid kept on to exclude the air4 ,it is necessary to take these precautions1 as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness in the dairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid1 and if the scraping be neglected1 the whole mass would soon become spoiled4 ,to choose salt butter1 plunge a knife into it1 and if1 when drawn out1 the blade smells rancid or unpleasant1 the butter is bad4 ,the layers in tubs will vary greatly1 the butter being made at different times2 so1 to try if the whole tub be good1 the cask should be unhooped1 and the butter tried between the staves4 ,it is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream1 or from unskimmed milk1 by the churn4 ,of course it partakes of the qualities of the milk1 and winter butter is said not to be so good as spring butter4 ,a word of caution is necessary about rancid butter4 ,nobody eats it on bread1 but it is sometimes used in cooking1 in forms in which the acidity can be more or less disguised4 ,so much the worse2 it is almost poisonous1 disguise it as you may4 ,never1 under any exigency whatever1 be tempted into allowing butter with even a soupon of turning to enter into the composition of any dish that appears on your table4 ,and1 in general1 the more you can do without the employment of butter that has been subjected to the influence of heat1 the better4 ,the woman of modern times is not a leech2 but she might often keep the leech from the door1 if she would give herself the trouble to invent innocent sauces4 ,,butter-,,moulds1 for ,moulding ,fresh ,butter4 ,illustration3 ,,dish ,,of ,,rolled ,,butter4 #afcd4 ,butter-moulds1 or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter1 are much used1 and are made in a variety of forms and shapes4 ,in using them1 let them be kept scrupulously clean1 and before the butter is pressed in1 the interior should be well wetted with cold water2 the butter must then be pressed in1 the mould opened1 and the perfect shape taken out4 ,the butter may be then dished1 and garnished with a wreath of parsley1 if for a cheese course2 if for breakfast1 put it into an ornamental butter-dish1 with a little water at the bottom1 should the weather be very warm4 ,,curled ,,butter4 #afce4 ,tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the wall2 make a knot with the other two ends1 so that a stick might pass through4 ,put the butter into the cloth2 twist it tightly over a dish1 into which the butter will fall through the knot1 so forming small and pretty little strings4 ,the butter may then be garnished with parsley1 if to serve with a cheese course2 or it may be sent to table plain for breakfast1 in an ornamental dish4 ,squirted butter for garnishing hams1 salads1 eggs1 c41 is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in the shape of a cornet1 and squeezing the butter in fine strings from the hole at the bottom4 ,scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon or scooper in warm water1 and then scooping the butter quickly and thin4 ,in warm weather1 it would not be necessary to heat the spoon4 ,,butter may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple process4 ,knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk is extracted2 then put it in a glazed jar1 which invert in another1 putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to exclude the air4 ,renew the water every day4 ,,fairy ,,butter4 #afcf4 ,,ingredients4--,the yolks of #b hard-boiled eggs1 #a tablespoonful of orange-flower water1 #b tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of good fresh butter4 ,mode4--,beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar1 with the orange-flower water and the sugar1 until the whole is reduced to a fine paste2 add the butter1 and force all through an old but clean cloth by wringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard4 ,the butter will then drop on the plate in large and small pieces1 according to the holes in the cloth4 ,plain butter may be done in the same manner1 and is very quickly prepared1 besides having a very good effect4 ,,butter4--,white-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the yellow2 but the yellow colour is often artificially produced1 by the introduction of colouring matter into the churn4 ,,anchovy ,,butter4 #afcg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of butter allow #f anchovies1 #a small bunch of parsley4 ,mode4--,wash1 bone1 and pound the anchovies well in a mortar2 scald the parsley1 chop it1 and rub through a sieve2 then pound all the ingredients together1 mix well1 and make the butter into pats immediately4 ,this makes a pretty dish1 if fancifully moulded1 for breakfast or supper1 and should be garnished with parsley4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient to make #b dishes1 with #d pats each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,cheese4 #afch4 ,in families where much cheese is consumed1 and it is bought in large quantities1 a piece from the whole cheese should be cut1 the larger quantity spread with a thickly-buttered sheet of white paper1 and the outside occasionally wiped4 ,to keep cheeses moist that are in daily use1 when they come from table a damp cloth should be wrapped round them1 and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to it1 in a cool but not very dry place4 ,to ripen cheeses1 and bring them forward1 put them into a damp cellar2 and1 to check too large a production of mites1 spirits may be poured into the parts affected4 ,pieces of cheese which are too near the rind1 or too dry to put on table1 may be made into ,welsh rare-bits1 or grated down and mixed with macaroni4 ,cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years1 by covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water1 or by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat4 ,the cheeses selected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind4 ,,cheese4--,it is well known that some persons like cheese in a state of decay1 and even alive4 ,there is no accounting for tastes1 and it maybe hard to show why mould1 which is vegetation1 should not be eaten as well as salad1 or maggots as well as eels4 ,but1 generally speaking1 decomposing bodies are not wholesome eating1 and the line must be drawn somewhere4 ,,stilton ,,cheese4 ,illustration3 ,,stilton ,,cheese4 #afci4 ,stilton cheese1 or ,british ,parmesan1 as it is sometimes called1 is generally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority few will dispute4 ,those made in ,may or ,june are usually served at ,christmas2 or1 to be in prime order1 should be kept from #aj to #ab months1 or even longer4 ,an artificial ripeness in ,stilton cheese is sometimes produced by inserting a small piece of decayed ,cheshire into an aperture at the top4 ,from #c weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese4 ,an additional flavour may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top1 and pouring therein port1 sherry1 ,madeira1 or old ale1 and letting the cheese absorb these for #b or #c weeks4 ,but that cheese is the finest which is ripened without any artificial aid1 is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters4 ,in serving a ,stilton cheese1 the top of it should be cut off to form a lid1 and a napkin or piece of white paper1 with a frill at the top1 pinned round4 ,when the cheese goes from table1 the lid should be replaced4 ,,mode ,,of ,,serving ,,cheese4 ,illustration3 ,,cheese-,,glass4 #afdj4 ,the usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a small quantity of it into neat square pieces1 and to put them into a glass cheese-dish1 this dish being handed round4 ,should the cheese crumble much1 of course this method is rather wasteful1 and it may then be put on the table in the piece1 and the host may cut from it4 ,when served thus1 the cheese must always be carefully scraped1 and laid on a white d'oyley or napkin1 neatly folded4 ,cream cheese is often served in a cheese course1 and1 sometimes1 grated ,parmesan3 the latter should he put into a covered glass dish4 ,rusks1 cheese-biscuits1 pats or slices of butter1 and salad1 cucumber1 or water-cresses1 should always form part of a cheese course4 ,,smoking ,,cheeses4--,the ,romans smoked their cheeses1 to give them a sharp taste4 ,they possessed public places expressly for this use1 and subject to police regulations which no one could evade4 ,a celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with one eye4 ,,cheese ,,sandwiches4 #afda4 ,,ingredients4--,slices of brown bread-and-butter1 thin slices of cheese4 ,mode4--,cut from a nice fat ,cheshire1 or any good rich cheese1 some slices about #a_/b inch thick1 and place them between some slices of brown bread-and-butter1 like sandwiches4 ,place them on a plate in the oven1 and1 when the bread is toasted1 serve on a napkin very hot and very quickly4 ,time4--#aj minutes in a brisk oven4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each sandwich4 ,sufficient4--,allow a sandwich for each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,cheese4--,one of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese4 ,unfermented1 or cream-cheese1 when quite fresh1 is good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree2 but cheese1 in its commonest shape1 is only fit for sedentary people as an after-dinner stimulant1 and in very small quantity4 ,bread and cheese1 as a meal1 is only fit for soldiers on march or labourers in the open air1 who like it because it holds the stomach a long time4 ,,cayenne ,,cheeses4 #afdb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of grated cheese1 #a_/c teaspoonful of cayenne1 #a_/c teaspoonful of salt2 water4 ,mode4--,rub the butter in the flour2 add the grated cheese1 cayenne4 and salt2 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,moisten with sufficient water to make the whole into a paste2 roll out1 and cut into fingers about #d inches in length4 ,bake them in a moderate oven a very light colour1 and serve very hot4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,fondue4 #afdc4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 the weight of #b in ,parmesan or good ,cheshire cheese1 the weight of #b in butter2 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs2 beat the former in a basin1 and grate the cheese1 or cut it into very thin flakes4 ,parmesan or ,cheshire cheese may be used1 whichever is the most convenient1 although the former is considered more suitable for this dish2 or an equal quantity of each may be used4 ,break the butter into small pieces1 add it to the other ingredients1 with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely1 and beat the mixture thoroughly4 ,well whisk the whites of the eggs1 stir them lightly in1 and either bake the fondue in a souffl-dish or small round cake-tin4 ,fill the dish only half full1 as the fondue should rise very much4 ,pin a napkin round the tin or dish1 and serve very hot and very quickly4 ,if allowed to stand after it is withdrawn from the oven1 the beauty and lightness of this preparation will be entirely spoiled4 ,time4--,from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,brillat ,,savarin',s ,,fondue4 7,an excellent ,recipe47 #afdd4 ,,ingredients4--,eggs1 cheese1 butter1 pepper and salt4 ,mode4--,take the same number of eggs as there are guests2 weigh the eggs in the shell1 allow a third of their weight in ,gruyre cheese1 and a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese4 ,break the eggs into a basin1 beat them well2 add the cheese1 which should be grated1 and the butter1 which should be broken into small pieces4 ,stir these ingredients together with a wooden spoon2 put the mixture into a lined saucepan1 place it over the fire1 and stir until the substance is thick and soft4 ,put in a little salt1 according to the age of the cheese1 and a good sprinkling of pepper1 and serve the fondue on a very hot silver or metal plate4 ,do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after the mixture is set1 as1 if it boils1 it will be entirely spoiled4 ,brillat ,savarin recommends that some choice ,burgundy should he handed round with this dish4 ,we have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to be made2 but we have tried it with good ,cheshire cheese1 and found it answer remarkably well4 ,time4--,about #d minutes to set the mixture4 ,average cost for #d persons1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a egg1 with the other ingredients in proportion1 for one person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,macaroni1 as usually served with the ,,cheese ,,course4 ,i4 #afde4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of pipe macaroni1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #f oz4 of ,parmesan or ,cheshire cheese1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a pint of milk1 #b pints of water1 bread crumbs4 ,mode4--,put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to flavour it2 place it on the fire1 and1 when it boils quickly1 drop in the macaroni4 ,keep the water boiling until it is quite tender2 drain the macaroni1 and put it into a deep dish4 ,have ready the grated cheese1 either ,parmesan or ,cheshire2 sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces1 reserving some of the cheese for the top layer4 ,season with a little pepper1 and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread crumbs4 ,warm1 without oiling1 the remainder of the butter1 and pour it gently over the bread crumbs4 ,place the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs2 turn it once or twice1 that it may be equally coloured1 and serve very hot4 ,the top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander1 which is even better than placing it before the fire1 as the process is more expeditious2 but it should never be browned in the oven1 as the butter would oil1 and so impart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish4 ,in boiling the macaroni1 let it be perfectly tender but firm1 no part beginning to melt1 and the form entirely preserved4 ,it may be boiled in plain water1 with a little salt instead of using milk1 but should then have a small piece of butter mixed with it4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour to boil the macaroni1 #e minutes to brown it before the fire4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner1 but does not require boiling so long a time4 ,,ii4 #afdf4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of pipe or riband macaroni1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/b pint of veal or beef gravy1 the yolks of #b eggs1 #d tablespoonfuls of cream1 #c oz4 of grated ,parmesan or ,cheshire cheese1 #a oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,wash the macaroni1 and boil it in the gravy and milk until quite tender1 without being broken4 ,drain it1 and put it into rather a deep dish4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and #b tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in2 make this sufficiently hot to thicken1 but do not allow it to boil2 pour it over the macaroni1 over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces2 brown with a salamander1 or before the fire1 and serve4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour to boil the macaroni1 #e minutes to thicken the eggs and cream1 #e minutes to brown4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,iii4 #afdg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of pipe macaroni1 #a_/b pint of brown gravy ,no4 #dcf1 #f oz4 of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,mode4--,wash the macaroni1 and boil it in salt and water until quite tender2 drain it1 and put it into rather a deep dish4 ,have ready a pint of good brown gravy1 pour it hot over the macaroni1 and send it to table with grated ,parmesan served on a separate dish4 ,when the flavour is liked1 a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which the macaroni is boiled2 but this must always be sparingly added1 as it will impart a very strong flavour4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #a-c_/d hour to boil the macaroni4 ,average cost1 with the gravy and cheese1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,pounded ,,cheese4 #afdh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of cheese allow #c oz4 of fresh butter4 ,mode4--,to pound cheese is an economical way of using it1 if it has become dry2 it is exceedingly good spread on bread1 and is the best way of eating it for those whose digestion is weak4 ,cut up the cheese into small pieces1 and pound it smoothly in a mortar1 adding butter in the above proportion4 ,press it down into a jar1 cover with clarified butter1 and it will keep for several days4 ,the flavour may be very much increased by adding mixed mustard 7about a teaspoonful to every lb471 or cayenne1 or pounded mace4 ,curry-powder is also not unfrequently mixed with it4 ,,ramakins1 to serve with the ,,cheese ,,course4 #afdi4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of ,cheshire cheese1 #a_/d lb4 of ,parmesan cheese1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #d eggs1 the crumb of a small roll2 pepper1 salt1 and pounded mace to taste4 ,mode4--,boil the crumb of the roll in milk for #e minutes2 strain1 and put it into a mortar2 add the cheese1 which should be finely scraped1 the butter1 the yolks of the eggs1 and seasoning1 and pound these ingredients well together4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs1 mix them with the paste1 and put it into small pans or saucers1 which should not be more than half filled4 ,bake them from #aj to #ab minutes1 and serve them very hot and very quickly4 ,this batter answers equally well for macaroni after it is boiled tender4 ,time--#aj to #ab minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #g or #h persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,pastry ,,ramakins1 to serve with the ,,cheese ,,course4 #afej4 ,,ingredients4--,any pieces of very good light puff-paste ,cheshire1 ,parmesan1 or ,stilton cheese4 ,mode4--,the remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts1 c4 answer for making these little dishes4 ,gather up the pieces of paste1 roll it out evenly1 and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a nice flavour4 ,fold the paste in three1 roll it out again1 and sprinkle more cheese over2 fold the paste1 roll it out1 and with a paste-cutter shape it in any way that may be desired4 ,bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from #aj to #ae minutes1 dish them on a hot napkin1 and serve quickly4 ,the appearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing the ramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven4 ,where expense is not objected to1 ,parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 with #a_/b lb4 of paste1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient for #f or #g persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,toasted ,,cheese1 or ,,scotch ,,rare-,,bit4 #afea4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of rich cheese1 toast1 mustard1 and pepper4 ,illustration3 ,,hot-,,water ,,cheese-,,dish4 ,mode4--,cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices2 melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate1 or over steam1 and1 when melted1 add a small quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper2 stir the cheese until it is completely dissolved1 then brown it before the fire1 or with a salamander4 ,fill the bottom of the cheese-toaster with hot water1 and serve with dry or buttered toasts1 whichever may be preferred4 ,our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-water reservoir3 the cheese is melted in the upper tin1 which is placed in another vessel of boiling water1 so keeping the preparation beautifully hot4 ,a small quantity of porter1 or port wine1 is sometimes mixed with the cheese2 and1 if it be not very rich1 a few pieces of butter may be mixed with it to great advantage4 ,sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts1 and then laid in the cheese-dish at the top of the hot water4 ,whichever way it is served1 it is highly necessary that the mixture be very hot1 and very quickly sent to table1 or it will be worthless4 ,time4--,about #e minutes to melt the cheese4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 per slice4 ,sufficient4--,allow a slice to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,toasted ,,cheese1 or ,,welsh ,,rare-,,bit4 #afeb4 ,,ingredients4--,slices of bread1 butter1 ,cheshire or ,gloucester cheese1 mustard1 and pepper4 ,mode4--,cut the bread into slices about #a_/b inch in thickness2 pare off the crust1 toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it1 and spread it with butter4 ,cut some slices1 not quite so large as the bread1 from a good rich fat cheese2 lay them on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster2 be careful that the cheese does not burn1 and let it be equally melted4 ,spread over the top a little made mustard and a seasoning of pepper1 and serve very hot1 with very hot plates4 ,to facilitate the melting of the cheese1 it may be cut into thin flakes or toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread4 ,as it is so essential to send this dish hot to table1 it is a good plan to melt the cheese in small round silver or metal pans1 and to send these pans to table1 allowing one for each guest4 ,slices of dry or buttered toast should always accompany them1 with mustard1 pepper1 and salt4 ,time4--,about #e minutes to melt the cheese4 ,average cost1 #a-a_/b;d4 each slice4 ,sufficient4--,allow a slice to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,should the cheese be dry1 a little butter mixed with it will be an improvement4 ,,cow ,,cheese4--,it was only fifty years after ,aristotle--the fourth century before ,christ--that butter began to be noticed as an aliment4 ,the ,greeks1 in imitation of the ,parthians and ,scythians1 who used to send it to them1 had it served upon their tables1 and called it at first oil of milk1 and later1 bouturos1 cow cheese4 ,,scotch ,,woodcock4 #afec4 ,,ingredients4--,a few slices of hot buttered toast2 allow #a anchovy to each slice4 ,for the sauce1--#a_/d pint of cream1 the yolks of #c eggs4 ,mode4--,separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs2 beat the former1 stir to them the cream1 and bring the sauce to the boiling-point1 but do not allow it to boil1 or it will curdle4 ,have ready some hot buttered toast1 spread with anchovies pounded to a paste2 pour a little of the hot sauce on the top1 and serve very hot and very quickly4 ,time4--#e minutes to make the sauce hot4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a_/b slice to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,choose ,,eggs4 #afed4 ,in choosing eggs1 apply the tongue to the large end of the egg1 and1 if it feels warm1 it is new1 and may be relied on as a fresh egg4 ,another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before a lighted candle1 or to the light1 and if the egg looks clear1 it will be tolerably good2 if thick1 it is stale2 and if there is a black spot attached to the shell1 it is worthless4 ,no egg should be used for culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it1 as it will render perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed4 ,eggs that are purchased1 and that cannot be relied on1 should always be broken in a cup1 and then put into a basin3 by this means stale or bad eggs may be easily rejected1 without wasting the others4 ,,eggs contain1 for their volume1 a greater quantity of nutriment than any other article of food4 ,but it does not follow that they are always good for weak stomachs2 quite the contrary2 for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work upon1 a considerable volume of ingesta1 over which the nutritive matter is diffused1 and so exposed to the action of the gastric juice at many points4 ,there are many persons who cannot digest eggs1 however cooked4 ,it is said1 however1 that their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling4 ,,to ,,keep ,,eggs ,,fresh ,,for ,,several ,,weeks4 #afee4 ,have ready a large saucepan1 capable of holding #c or #d quarts1 full of boiling water4 ,put the eggs into a cabbage-net1 say #bj at a time1 and hold them in the water 7which must be kept boiling7 for #bj seconds4 ,proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as you wish to preserve2 then pack them away in sawdust4 ,we have tried this method of preserving eggs1 and can vouch for its excellence3 they will be found1 at the end of #b or #c months1 quite good enough for culinary purposes2 and although the white may be a little tougher than that of a new-laid egg1 the yolk will be nearly the same4 ,many persons keep eggs for a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil3 they should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust1 and the eggs not allowed to touch each other4 ,eggs for storing should be collected in fine weather1 and should not be more than #bd hours old when they are packed away1 or their flavour1 when used1 cannot be relied on4 ,another simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soon after they have been laid1 and then to put the vessel containing the lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse4 ,seasonable4--,the best time for preserving eggs is from ,july to ,september4 ,,eggs4--,the quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by the food of the fowls who lay them4 ,herbs and grain together make a better food than grain only4 ,when the hens eat too many insects1 the eggs have a disagreeable flavour4 ,,to ,,boil ,,eggs ,,for ,,breakfast1 ,,salads1 c4 ,illustration3 ,,egg-,,stand ,,for ,,the ,,breakfast-,,table4 #afef4 ,eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh1 or boiled too soon after they are laid2 but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old4 ,have ready a saucepan of boiling water2 put the eggs into it gently with a spoon1 letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is withdrawn1 that the egg may not fall1 and consequently crack4 ,for those who like eggs lightly boiled1 #c minutes will be found sufficient2 #c-c_/d to #d minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely2 and1 if liked hard1 #f to #g minutes will not be found too long4 ,should the eggs be unusually large1 as those of black ,spanish fowls sometimes are1 allow an extra #a_/b minute for them4 ,eggs for salads should be boiled from #aj minutes to #a_/d hour1 and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a few minutes2 they should then be rolled on the table with the hand1 and the shell will peel off easily4 ,time4--,to boil eggs lightly1 for invalids or children1 #c minutes2 to boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes1 #c-c_/d to #d minutes2 to boil eggs hard1 #f to #g minutes2 for salads1 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,note4--,silver or plated egg-dishes1 like that shown in our engraving1 are now very much used4 ,the price of the one illustrated is #b4 #bs41 and may be purchased of ,messrs4 ,r4 ,j4 ,slack1 #ccf1 ,strand4 ,,eggs4--,when fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel full of boiling water1 they crack1 because the eggs being well filled1 the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids1 dilated by heat4 ,if the volume of hot water be small1 the shells do not crack1 because its temperature is reduced by the eggs before the interior dilation can take place4 ,stale eggs1 again1 do not crack1 because the air inside is easily compressed4 ,,buttered ,,eggs4 #afeg4 ,,ingredients4--#d new-laid eggs1 #b oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,procure the eggs new-laid if possible2 break them into a basin1 and beat them well2 put the butter into another basin1 which place in boiling water1 and stir till the butter is melted4 ,pour that and the eggs into a lined saucepan2 hold it over a gentle fire1 and1 as the mixture begins to warm1 pour it two or three times into the basin1 and back again1 that the two ingredients may be well incorporated4 ,keep stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot1 without boiling1 and serve on hot buttered toast4 ,if the mixture is allowed to boil1 it will curdle1 and so be entirely spoiled4 ,time4--,about #e minutes to make the eggs hot4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient4--,allow a slice to each person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ducks' ,,eggs4 #afeh4 ,ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that1 plainly boiled1 they are not good for eating2 they answer1 however1 very well for various culinary preparations where eggs are required2 such as custards1 c4 c4 ,being so large and highly-flavoured1 #a duck's egg will go as far as #b small hen's eggs2 besides making whatever they are mixed with exceedingly rich4 ,they also are admirable when used in puddings4 ,,primitive ,,method ,,of ,,cooking ,,eggs4--,the shepherds of ,egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire4 ,they placed them in a sling1 which they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for use4 ,,fried ,,eggs4 #afei4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a_/d lb4 of lard1 butter or clarified dripping4 ,illustration3 ,,fried ,,eggs ,,on ,,bacon4 ,mode4--,place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire2 put in the fat1 and allow it to come to the boiling-point4 ,break the eggs into cups1 slip them into the boiling fat1 and let them remain until the whites are delicately set2 and1 whilst they are frying1 ladle a little of the fat over them4 ,take them up with a slice1 drain them for a minute from their greasy moisture1 trim them neatly1 and serve on slices of fried bacon or ham2 or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish1 with the bacon put round as a garnish4 ,time4--#b to #c minutes4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each2 #b;d4 when scarce4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,veneration ,,for ,,eggs4--,many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect1 approaching to veneration1 because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements4 ,the shell1 they said1 represented the earth2 the white1 water2 the yolk1 fire2 and air was found under the shell at one end of the egg4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel4 #affj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #a tablespoonful of flour1 #a_/b pint of milk1 pepper and salt to taste1 #a tablespoonful of minced parsley1 the juice of #a_/b lemon1 #f eggs4 ,mode4--,put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan2 stir them over the fire until the mixture thickens2 pour in the milk1 which should be boiling2 add a seasoning of pepper and salt1 and simmer the whole for #e minutes4 ,put the remainder of the butter into the sauce1 and add the minced parsley2 then boil the eggs hard1 strip off the shells1 cut the eggs into quarters1 and put them on a dish4 ,bring the sauce to the boiling-point1 add the lemon-juice1 pour over the eggs1 and serve4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil the sauce2 the eggs1 #aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #d or #e persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,oeufs ,,au ,,plat1 or ,,au ,,miroir1 served on the ,dish in which they are ,cooked4 #affa4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #a oz4 of butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter2 melt it1 break the eggs into it the same as for poaching1 sprinkle them with white pepper and fine salt1 and put the remainder of the butter1 cut into very small pieces1 on the top of them4 ,put the dish on a hot plate1 or in the oven1 or before the fire1 and let it remain until the whites become set1 but not hard1 when serve immediately1 placing the dish they were cooked in on another4 ,to hasten the cooking of the eggs1 a salamander may be held over them for a minute2 but great care must be taken that they are not too much done4 ,this is an exceedingly nice dish1 and one very easily prepared for breakfast4 ,time4--#c minutes4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,plovers' ,,eggs4 #affb4 ,plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard1 and sent to table in a napkin1 either hot or cold4 ,they may also be shelled1 and served the same as eggs la ,tripe1 with a good ,bchamel sauce1 or brown gravy1 poured over them4 ,they are also used for decorating salads1 the beautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired4 ,,poached ,,eggs4 ,illustration3 ,,eggs ,,poached ,,on ,,toast4 ,illustration3 ,,tin ,,egg-,,poacher4 #affc4 ,,ingredients4--,eggs1 water4 ,to every pint of water allow #a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,mode4--,eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh1 but not quite new-laid2 those that are about #cf hours old are the best for the purpose4 ,if quite new-laid1 the white is so milky it is almost impossible to set it2 and1 on the other hand1 if the egg be at all stale1 it is equally difficult to poach it nicely4 ,strain some boiling water into a deep clean frying-pan2 break the egg into a cup without damaging the yolk1 and1 when the water boils1 remove the pan to the side of the fire1 and gently slip the egg into it4 ,place the pan over a gentle fire1 and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely set1 when the egg is ready4 ,take it up gently with a slice1 cut away the ragged edges of the white1 and serve either on toasted bread or on slices of ham or bacon1 or on spinach1 c4 ,a poached egg should not be overdone1 as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolk be allowed to harden4 ,when the egg is slipped into the water1 the white should be gathered together1 to keep it a little in form1 or the cup should be turned over it for #a minute4 ,to poach an egg to perfection is rather a difficult operation2 so1 for inexperienced cooks1 a tin egg-poacher may be purchased1 which greatly facilitates this manner of dressing ecgs4 ,our illustration clearly shows what it is3 it consists of a tin plate with a handle1 with a space for three perforated cups4 ,an egg should be broken into each cup1 and the machine then placed in a stewpan of boiling water1 which has been previously strained4 ,when the whites of the eggs appear set1 they are done1 and should then be carefully slipped on to the toast or spinach1 or with whatever they are served4 ,in poaching eggs in a frying-pan1 never do more than four at a time2 and1 when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which the eggs are done1 use the above proportion4 ,time4--#b-a_/b to #c-a_/b minutes1 according to the size of the egg4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b eggs to each person4 ,seasonable at any time1 but less plentiful in winter4 ,,poached ,,eggs1 ,,with ,,cream4 #affd4 ,,ingredients4--#a pint of water1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #d teaspoonfuls of vinegar1 #d fresh eggs1 #a_/b gill of cream1 salt1 pepper1 and pounded sugar to taste1 #a oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,put the water1 vinegar1 and salt into a frying-pan1 and break each egg into a separate cup2 bring the water1 c4 to boil1 and slip the eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks4 ,simmer them from #c to #d minutes1 but not longer1 and1 with a slice1 lift them out on to a hot dish1 and trim the edges4 ,empty the pan of its contents1 put in the cream1 add a seasoning to taste of pepper1 salt1 and pounded sugar2 bring the whole to the boiling-point2 then add the butter1 broken into small pieces2 toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted2 pour it over the eggs1 and serve4 ,to insure the eggs not being spoiled whilst the cream1 c41 is preparing1 it is a good plan to warm the cream with the butter1 c41 before the eggs are poached1 so that it may be poured over them immediately after they are dished4 ,time4--#c to #d minutes to poach the eggs1 #e minutes to warm the cream4 ,average cost for the above quantity1 #i;d4 ,sufficient for #b persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 #affe4 ,,comparative ,,sizes ,,of ,,eggs4 ,illustration3 #a ,,swan',s ,,egg4 #b ,,turkey',s ,,egg4 #c ,,duck',s ,,egg4 #d ,,plover',s ,,egg4 ,,scotch ,,eggs4 #afff4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #f tablespoonfuls of forcemeat ,no4 #dag1 hot lard1 #a_/b pint of good brown gravy4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs for #aj minutes2 strip them from the shells1 and cover them with forcemeat made by recipe ,no4 #dag2 or substitute pounded anchovies for the ham4 ,fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard1 drain them before the fire from their greasy moisture1 dish them1 and pour round from #a_/d to #a_/b pint of good brown gravy4 ,to enhance the appearance of the eggs1 they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread crumbs2 but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefully fried4 ,the flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat must preponderate1 as it should be very relishing4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the eggs1 #e to #g minutes to fry them4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,tripe4 #affg4 ,,ingredients4--#h eggs1 #c_/d pint of ,bchamel sauce ,no4 #cfh1 dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley4 ,mode4--,boil the eggs hard2 put them into cold water1 peel them1 take out the yolks whole1 and shred the whites4 ,make #c_/d pint of ,bchamel sauce by recipe ,no4 #cfh2 add the parsley1 and1 when the sauce is quite hot1 put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish1 and the shred whites round them2 pour over the sauce1 and garnish with leaves of puff-paste or fried crotons4 ,there is no necessity for putting the eggs into the saucepan with the ,bchamel2 the sauce1 being quite hot1 will warm the eggs sufficiently4 ,time4--#aj minutes to boil the eggs4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #e or #f persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,bread1 ,,biscuits1 ,,and ,,cakes4 ,,bread ,,and ,,bread-,,making4 #affh4 ,,among the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of food for man1 the ,cereals hold the first place4 ,by means of skilful cultivation1 mankind have transformed the original forms of these growths1 poor and ill-flavoured as they perhaps were1 into various fruitful and agreeable species1 which yield an abundant and pleasant supply4 ,classified according to their respective richness in alimentary elements1 the ,cereals stand thus3--,wheat1 and its varieties1 ,rye1 ,barley1 ,oats1 ,rice1 ,indian ,corn4 ,everybody knows it is wheat flour which yields the best bread4 ,rye-bread is viscous1 hard1 less easily soluble by the gastric juice1 and not so rich in nutritive power4 ,flour produced from barley1 ,indian corn1 or rice1 is not so readily made into bread2 and the article1 when made1 is heavy and indigestible4 #affi4 ,on examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals ,footnote3 ,cereal1 a corn-producing plant2 from ,ceres1 the goddess of agriculture4 used in the preparation of flour1 such as wheat1 maize1 rye1 barley1 c41 it will be found to consist of two parts1--the husk1 or exterior covering1 which is generally of a dark colour1 and the inner1 or albuminous part1 which is more or less white4 ,in grinding1 these two portions are separated1 and the husk being blown away in the process of winnowing1 the flour remains in the form of a light brown powder1 consisting principally of starch and gluten4 ,in order to render it white1 it undergoes a process called bolting4 ,it is passed through a series of fine sieves1 which separate the coarser parts1 leaving behind fine white flour1--the fine firsts of the corn-dealer4 ,the process of bolting1 as just described1 tends to deprive flour of its gluten1 the coarser and darker portion containing much of that substance2 while the lighter part is peculiarly rich in starch4 ,bran contains a large proportion of gluten2 hence it will be seen why brown broad is so much more nutritious than white2 in fact1 we may lay it down as a general rule1 that the whiter the bread the less nourishment it contains4 ,majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days with white wheaten bread1 at the end of which time he died2 while another dog1 fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran1 lived without any disturbance of his health4 ,the bolting process1 then1 is rather injurious than beneficial in its result2 and is one of the numerous instances where fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by4 ,in ancient times1 down to the ,emperors1 no bolted flour was known4 ,in many parts of ,germany the entire meal is used2 and in no part of the world are the digestive organs of the people in a better condition4 ,in years of famine1 when corn is scarce1 the use of bolted flour is most culpable1 for from #ah to #bj per cent1 is lost in bran4 ,brown bread has1 of late years1 become very popular2 and many physicians have recommended it to invalids with weak digestions with great success4 ,this rage for white bread has introduced adulterations of a very serious character1 affecting the health of the whole community4 ,potatoes are added for this purpose2 but this is a comparatively harmless cheat1 only reducing the nutritive property of the bread2 but bone-dust and alum are also put in1 which are far from harmless4 #afgj4 ,bread-making is a very ancient art indeed4 ,the ,assyrians1 ,egyptians1 and ,greeks1 used to make bread1 in which oil1 with aniseed and other spices1 was an element2 but this was unleavened4 ,every family used to prepare the bread for its own consumption1 the trade of baking not having yet taken shape4 ,it is said1 that somewhere about the beginning of the thirtieth ,olympiad1 the slave of an archon1 at ,athens1 made leavened bread by accident4 ,he had left some wheaten dough in an earthen pan1 and forgotten it2 some days afterwards1 he lighted upon it again1 and found it turning sour4 ,his first thought was to throw it away2 but1 his master coming up1 he mixed this now acescent dough with some fresh dough1 which he was working at4 ,the bread thus produced1 by the introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermentation had begun1 was found delicious by the archon and his friends2 and the slave1 being summoned and catechised1 told the secret4 ,it spread all over ,athens2 and everybody wanting leavened bread at once1 certain persons set up as bread-makers1 or bakers4 ,in a short time bread-baking became quite an art1 and ,athenian bread was quoted all over ,greece as the best bread1 just as the honey of ,hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey4 #afga4 ,in our own times1 and among civilized peoples1 bread has become an article of food of the first necessity2 and properly so1 for it constitutes of itself a complete life-sustainer1 the gluten1 starch1 and sugar1 which it contains1 representing azotized and hydro-carbonated nutrients1 and combining the sustaining powers of the animal and vegetable kingdoms in one product4 #afgb4 ,,wheaten ,,bread4--,the finest1 wholesomest1 and most savoury bread is made from wheaten flour4 ,there are1 of wheat1 three leading qualities1-- the soft1 the medium1 and the hard wheat2 the last of which yields a kind of bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat1 but is richer in gluten1 and1 consequently1 more nutritive4 #afgc4 ,,rye ,,bread4--,this comes next to wheaten bread3 it is not so rich in gluten1 but is said to keep fresh longer1 and to have some laxative qualities4 #afgd4 ,,barley ,,bread1 ,,indian-,,corn ,,bread1 c4--,bread made from barley1 maize1 oats1 rice1 potatoes1 c4 rises badly1 because the grains in question contain but little gluten1 which makes the bread heavy1 close in texture1 and difficult of digestion2 in fact1 corn-flour has to be added before panification can take place4 ,in countries where wheat is scarce and maize abundant1 the people make the latter a chief article of sustenance1 when prepared in different forms4 ,,bread-,,making4 #afge4 ,,panification1 or bread-making1 consists of the following processes1 in the case of ,wheaten ,flour4 ,fifty or sixty per cent4 of water is added to the flour1 with the addition of some leavening matter1 and1 preferably1 of yeast from malt and hops4 ,all kinds of leavening matter have1 however1 been1 and are still used in different parts of the world3 in the ,east ,indies1 toddy1 which is a liquor that flows from the wounded cocoa-nut tree2 and1 in the ,west ,indies1 dunder1 or the refuse of the distillation of rum4 ,the dough then undergoes the well-known process called kneading4 ,the yeast produces fermentation1 a process which may be thus described3--,the dough reacting upon the leavening matter introduced1 the starch of the flour is transformed into saccharine matter1 the saccharine matter being afterwards changed into alcohol and carbonic acid4 ,the dough must be well bound1 and yet allow the escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany the fermentation1 and which1 in their passage1 cause the numerous little holes which are seen in light bread4 #afgf4 ,the yeast must be good and fresh1 if the bread is to be digestible and nice4 ,stale yeast produces1 instead of vinous fermentation1 an acetous fermentation1 which flavours the bread and makes it disagreeable4 ,a poor thin yeast produces an imperfect fermentation1 the result being a heavy unwholesome loaf4 #afgg4 ,when the dough is well kneaded1 it is left to stand for some time1 and then1 as soon as it begins to swell1 it is divided into loaves2 after which it is again left to stand1 when it once more swells up1 and manifests1 for the last time1 the symptoms of fermentation4 ,it is then put into the oven1 where the water contained in the dough is partly evaporated1 and the loaves swell up again1 while a yellow crust begins to form upon the surface4 ,when the bread is sufficiently baked1 the bottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the finger1 while the crumb is elastic1 and rises again after being pressed down with the finger4 ,the bread is1 in all probability1 baked sufficiently if1 on opening the door of the oven1 you are met by a cloud of steam which quickly passes away4 #afgh4 ,one word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls4 ,when bread is taken out of the oven1 it is full of moisture2 the starch is held together in masses1 and the bread1 instead of being crusted so as to expose each grain of starch to the saliva1 actually prevents their digestion by being formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses1 which lie on the stomach like so many bullets4 ,bread should always be at least a day old before it is eaten2 and1 if properly made1 and kept in a cool dry place1 ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at the end of three or four days4 ,hot rolls1 swimming in melted butter1 and new bread1 ought to be carefully shunned by everybody who has the slightest respect for that much-injured individual--the ,stomach4 #afgi4 ,,aerated ,,bread4--,it is not unknown to some of our readers that ,dr4 ,dauglish1 of ,malvern1 has recently patented a process for making bread light without the use of leaven4 ,the ordinary process of bread-making by fermentation is tedious1 and much labour of human hands is requisite in the kneading1 in order that the dough may be thoroughly interpenetrated with the leaven4 ,the new process impregnates the bread1 by the application of machinery1 with carbonic acid gas1 or fixed air4 ,different opinions are expressed about the bread2 but it is curious to note1 that1 as corn is now reaped by machinery1 and dough is baked by machinery1 the whole process of bread-making is probably in course of undergoing changes which will emancipate both the housewife and the professional baker from a large amount of labour4 #afhj4 ,in the production of ,arated ,bread1 wheaten flour1 water1 salt1 and carbonic acid gas 7generated by proper machinery71 are the only materials employed4 ,we need not inform our readers that carbonic acid gas is the source of the effervescence1 whether in common water coming from a depth1 or in lemonade1 or any arated drink4 ,its action1 in the new bread1 takes the place of fermentation in the old4 #afha4 ,in the patent process1 the dough is mixed in a great iron ball1 inside which is a system of paddles1 perpetually turning1 and doing the kneading part of the business4 ,into this globe the flour is dropped till it is full1 and then the common atmospheric air is pumped out1 and the pure gas turned on4 ,the gas is followed by the water1 which has been arated for the purpose1 and then begins the churning or kneading part of the business4 #afhb4 ,of course1 it is not long before we have the dough1 and very light and nice it looks4 ,this is caught in tins1 and passed on to the floor of the oven1 which is an endless floor1 moving slowly through the fire4 ,done to a turn1 the loaves emerge at the other end of the apartment1--and the ,arated ,bread is made4 #afhc4 ,it may be added1 that it is a good plan to change one's baker from time to time1 and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that is eaten4 #afhd4 ,,mixed ,,breads4--,rye bread is hard of digestion1 and requires longer and slower baking than wheaten bread4 ,it is better when made with leaven of wheaten flour rather than yeast1 and turns out lighter4 ,it should not be eaten till two days old4 ,it will keep a long time4 #afhe4 ,a good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour1 wheat-flour1 and rice-paste in equal proportions2 also by mixing rye1 wheat1 and barley4 ,in ,norway1 it is said that they only bake their barley broad once a year1 such is its keeping quality4 #afhf4 ,indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour 7half with half7 makes a nice bread2 but it is not considered very digestible1 though it keeps well4 #afhg4 ,rice cannot be made into bread1 nor can potatoes2 but one-third potato flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf4 #afhh4 ,a very good bread1 better than the ordinary sort1 and of a delicious flavour1 is said to be produced by adopting the following recipe3--,take ten parts of wheat-flour1 five parts of potato-flour1 one part of rice-paste2 knead together1 add the yeast1 and bake as usual4 ,this is1 of course1 cheaper than wheaten bread4 #afhi4 ,flour1 when freshly ground1 is too glutinous to make good bread1 and should therefore not be used immediately1 but should be kept dry for a few weeks1 and stirred occasionally1 until it becomes dry1 and crumbles easily between the fingers4 #afij4 ,flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread or cakes2 if at all damp1 the preparation is sure to be heavy4 ,before mixing it with the other ingredients1 it is a good plan to place it for an hour or two before the fire1 until it feels warm and dry4 #afia4 ,yeast from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other3 it is very bitter1 and1 on that account1 should be well washed1 and put away until the thick mass settles4 ,if it still continues bitter1 the process should be repeated2 and1 before being used1 all the water floating at the top must be poured off4 ,german yeast is now very much used1 and should be moistened1 and thoroughly mixed with the milk or water with which the bread is to be made4 #afib4 ,the following observations are extracted from a valuable work on ,bread-making1 ,footnote3 ,the ,english ,bread-,book4 ,by ,eliza ,acton4 ,london3 ,longman4 and will be found very useful to our readers3-- #afic4 ,the first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost cleanliness2 the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the ingredients used for it2 and1 in addition to these1 there must be attention and care through the whole process4 #afid4 ,an almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made1 and to allow it to become cold before it is finished4 ,the other most common causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet1 or which has been frozen1 or has had hot liquid poured over it4 #afie4 ,too small a proportion of yeast1 or insufficient time allowed for the dough to rise1 will cause the bread to be heavy4 #afif4 ,heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the dough very hard1 and letting it become quite1 cold1 particularly in winter4 #afig4 ,if either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself1 that is to say1 if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has reached the proper point for either1 sour bread will probably be the consequence in warm weather1 and bad bread in any4 ,the goodness will also be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of it hot1 instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation4 #afih4 ,,milk ,,or ,,butter4--,milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only injure the flavour of the bread1 but1 in sultry weather1 will often cause it to be quite uneatable2 yet either of them1 if fresh and good1 will materially improve its quality4 #afii4 ,to keep bread sweet and fresh1 as soon as it is cold it should be put into a clean earthen pan1 with a cover to it3 this pan should be placed at a little distance from the ground1 to allow a current of air to pass underneath4 ,some persons prefer keeping bread on clean wooden shelves1 without being covered1 that the crust may not soften4 ,stale bread may be freshened by warming it through in a gentle oven4 ,stale pastry1 cakes1 c41 may also be improved by this method4 #agjj4 ,the utensils required for making bread1 on a moderate scale1 are a kneading-trough or pan1 sufficiently large that the dough may be kneaded freely without throwing the flour over the edges1 and also to allow for its rising2 a hair sieve for straining yeast1 and one or two strong spoons4 #agja4 ,yeast must always be good of its kind1 and in a fitting state to produce ready and proper fermentation4 ,yeast of strong beer or ale produces more effect than that of milder kinds2 and the fresher the yeast1 the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough4 #agjb4 ,as a general rule1 the oven for baking bread should be rather quick1 and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without hardening the outside4 ,the oven door should not be opened after the bread is put in until the dough is set1 or has become firm1 as the cool air admitted will have an unfavourable effect on it4 #agjc4 ,brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for baking bread3 these should be heated with wood faggots1 and then swept and mopped out1 to cleanse them for the reception of the bread4 ,iron ovens are more difficult to manage1 being apt to burn the surface of the bread before the middle is baked4 ,to remedy this1 a few clean bricks should be set at the bottom of the oven1 close together1 to receive the tins of bread4 ,in many modern stoves the ovens are so much improved that they bake admirably2 and they can always be brought to the required temperature1 when it is higher than is needed1 by leaving the door open for a time4 ,a ,,few ,,hints respecting the ,making and ,baking of ,,cakes4 #agjd4 ,eggs should always be broken into a cup1 the whites and yolks separated1 and they should always be strained4 ,breaking the eggs thus1 the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others1 and so cause no waste4 ,as eggs are used instead of yeast1 they should be very thoroughly whisked2 they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick enough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk4 #agje4 ,loaf ,sugar should be well pounded1 and then sifted through a fine sieve4 #agjf4 ,currants should be nicely washed1 picked1 dried in a cloth1 and then carefully examined1 that no pieces of grit or stone may be left amongst them4 ,they should then be laid on a dish before the fire1 to become thoroughly dry2 as1 if added damp to the other ingredients1 cakes will be liable to be heavy4 #agjg4 ,good ,butter should always be used in the manufacture of cakes2 and if beaten to a cream1 it saves much time and labour to warm1 but not melt1 it before beating4 #agjh4 ,less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed with the other ingredients4 #agji4 ,the heat of the oven is of great importance1 especially for large cakes4 ,if the heat be not tolerably fierce1 the batter will not rise4 ,if the oven is too quick1 and there is any danger of the cake burning or catching1 put a sheet of clean paper over the top4 ,newspaper1 or paper that has been printed on1 should never be used for this purpose4 #agaj4 ,to know when a cake is sufficiently baked1 plunge a clean knife into the middle of it2 draw it quickly out1 and if it looks in the least sticky1 put the cake back1 and close the oven door until the cake is done4 #agaa4 ,cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars1 and in a dry place4 ,those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made without it4 ,,biscuits4 #agab4 ,since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories1 biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome1 in1 comparatively speaking1 endless variety4 ,their actual component parts are1 perhaps1 known only to the various makers2 but there are several kinds of biscuits which have long been in use1 that may here be advantageously described4 #agac4 ,biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread1 and are1 perhaps1 the most wholesome of that class4 ,in cases where fermented bread does not agree with the human stomach1 they may be recommended3 in many instances they are considered lighter1 and less liable to create acidity and flatulence4 ,the name is derived from the ,french bis cuit1 twice-baked1 because1 originally1 that was the mode of entirely depriving them of all moisture1 to insure their keeping2 but1 although that process is no longer employed1 the name is retained4 ,the use of this kind of bread on land is pretty general1 and some varieties are luxuries2 but1 at sea1 biscuits are articles of the first necessity4 #agad4 ,,sea1 or ,,ship ,,biscuits1 are made of wheat-flour from which only the coarsest bran has been separated4 ,the dough is made up as stiff as it can be worked1 and is then formed into shapes1 and baked in an oven2 after which1 the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven until perfectly dry1 to prevent them from becoming mouldy when stored4 #agae4 ,,captains' ,,biscuits are made in a similar manner1 only of fine flour4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,,to ,,make ,,yeast ,,for ,,bread4 #agaf4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b oz4 of hops1 #c quarts of water1 #a lb4 of bruised malt1 #a_/b pint of yeast4 ,mode4--,boil the hops in the water for #bj minutes2 let it stand for about #e minutes1 then add it to #a lb4 of bruised malt prepared as for brewing4 ,let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm2 then put in not quite #a_/b pint of yeast2 keep it warm1 and let it work #c or #d hours2 then put it into small #a_/b-pint bottles 7ginger-beer bottles are the best for the purpose71 cork them well1 and tie them down4 ,the yeast is now ready for use2 it will keep good for a few weeks1 and #a bottle will be found sufficient for #ah lbs4 of flour4 ,when required for use1 boil #c lbs4 of potatoes without salt1 mash them in the same water in which they were boiled1 and rub them through a colander4 ,stir in about #a_/b lb4 of flour2 then put in the yeast1 pour it in the middle of the flour1 and let it stand warm on the hearth all night1 and in the morning let it be quite warm when it is kneaded4 ,the bottles of yeast require very careful opening1 as it is generally exceedingly ripe4 ,time4--#bj minutes to boil the hops and water1 the yeast to work #c or #d hours4 ,sufficient4--#a_/b pint sufficient for #ah lbs4 of flour4 ,,kirkleatham ,,yeast4 #agag4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of hops1 #d quarts of water1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b pint of yeast4 ,mode4--,boil the hops and water for #bj minutes2 strain1 and mix with the liquid #a_/b lb4 of flour and not quite #a_/b pint of yeast4 ,bottle it up1 and tie the corks down4 ,when wanted for use1 boil potatoes according to the quantity of bread to be made 7about #c lbs4 are sufficient for about a peck of flour72 mash them1 add to them #a_/b lb4 of flour1 and mix about #a_/b pint of the yeast with them2 let this mixture stand all day1 and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted4 ,time4--#bj minutes to boil the hops and water4 ,sufficient4--#a_/b pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour1 or rather more4 ,,to ,,make ,,good ,,home-,,made ,,bread4 7,miss ,acton's ,recipe47 #agah4 ,,ingredients4--#a quartern of flour1 #a large tablespoonful of solid brewer's yeast1 or nearly #a oz4 of fresh ,german yeast1 #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b pint of warm milk-and-water4 ,illustration3 ,,cottage ,,loaf4 ,illustration3 ,,tin ,,bread4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan2 then1 with a strong metal or wooden spoon1 hollow out the middle2 but do not clear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan1 as1 in that case1 the sponge 7or leaven1 as it was formerly termed7 would stick to it1 which it ought not to do4 ,next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer's yeast which has been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of cold water1 and letting it afterwards stand to settle for a day and night2 or nearly an ounce of ,german yeast2 put it into a large basin1 and proceed to mix it1 so that it shall be as smooth as cream1 with #c_/d pint of warm milk-and-water1 or with water only2 though even a very little milk will much improve the bread4 ,pour the yeast into the hole made in the flour1 and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will make a thick batter1 in which there must be no lumps4 ,strew plenty of flour on the top2 throw a thick clean cloth over1 and set it where the air is warm2 but do not place it upon the kitchen fender1 for it will become too much heated there4 ,look at it from time to time3 when it has been laid for nearly an hour1 and when the yeast has risen and broken through the flour1 so that bubbles appear in it1 you will know that it is ready to be made up into dough4 ,then place the pan on a strong chair1 or dresser1 or table1 of convenient height2 pour into the sponge the remainder of the warm milk-and-water2 stir into it as much of the flour as you can with the spoon2 then wipe it out clean with your fingers1 and lay it aside4 ,next take plenty of the remaining flour1 throw it on the top of the leaven1 and begin1 with the knuckles of both hands1 to knead it well4 ,when the flour is nearly all kneaded in1 begin to draw the edges of the dough towards the middle1 in order to mix the whole thoroughly2 and when it is free from flour and lumps and crumbs1 and does not stick to the hands when touched1 it will be done1 and may again be covered with the cloth1 and left to rise a second time4 ,in #c_/d hour look at it1 and should it have swollen very much1 and begin to crack1 it will be light enough to bake4 ,turn it then on to a paste-board or very clean dresser1 and with a large sharp knife divide it in two2 make it up quickly into loaves1 and dispatch it to the oven3 make one or two incisions across the tops of the loaves1 as they will rise more easily if this be done4 ,if baked in tins or pans1 rub them with a tiny piece of butter laid on a piece of clean paper1 to prevent the dough from sticking to them4 ,all bread should be turned upside down1 or on its side1 as soon as it is drawn from the oven3 if this be neglected1 the under part of the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam1 which cannot then escape from them4 ,to make the dough without setting a sponge1 merely mix the yeast with the greater part of the warm milk-and-water1 and wet up the whole of the flour at once after a little salt has been stirred in1 proceeding exactly1 in every other respect1 as in the directions just given4 ,as the dough will soften in the rising1 it should be made quite firm at first1 or it will be too lithe by the time it is ready for the oven4 ,illustration3 ,,italian ,,millet4 ,time4--,to be left to rise an hour the first time1 #c_/d hour the second time2 to be baked from #a to #a-a_/d hour1 or baked in one loaf from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,,italian ,,millet1 or ,great ,indian ,millet1 is cultivated in ,egypt and ,nubia1 where it is called dhourra1 and is used as human food1 as well as for the fermentation of beer4 ,it will grow on poor soils1 and is extremely productive4 ,it has been introduced into ,italy1 where they make a coarse bread from it2 and it is also employed in pastry and puddings3 they also use it for feeding horses and domestic fowls4 ,it is the largest variety1 growing to the height of six feet2 but it requires a warm climate1 and will not ripen in this country4 ,a yellow variety1 called ,golden ,millet1 is sold in the grocers' shops1 for making puddings1 and is very delicate and wholesome4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,peck ,,of ,,good ,,bread4 #agai4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of potatoes1 #f pints of cold water1 #a_/b pint of good yeast1 a peck of flour1 #b oz4 of salt4 ,mode4--,peel and boil the potatoes2 beat them to a cream while warm2 then add #a pint of cold water1 strain through a colander1 and add to it #a_/b pint of good yeast1 which should have been put in water over-night1 to take off its bitterness4 ,stir all well together with a wooden spoon1 and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour2 mix it to the substance of cream1 cover it over closely1 and let it remain near the fire for an hour2 then add the #e pints of water1 milk-warm1 with #b oz4 of salt2 pour this in1 and mix the whole to a nice light dough4 ,let it remain for about #b hours2 then make it into #g loaves1 and bake for about #a-a_/b hour in a good oven4 ,when baked1 the bread should weigh nearly #bj lbs4 ,time4--,about #a-a_/b hour4 ,,the ,,red ,,varieties ,,of ,,wheat are generally hardier and more easily grown than the white sorts1 and1 although of less value to the miller1 they are fully more profitable to the grower1 in consequence of the better crops which they produce4 ,another advantage the red wheats possess is their comparative immunity from the attacks of mildew and fly4 ,the best ,english wheat comes from the counties of ,kent and ,essex2 the qualities under these heads always bearing a higher price than others1 as will be seen by the periodical lists in the journals4 ,,rice ,,bread4 #agbj4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of rice allow #d lbs4 of wheat flour1 nearly #c tablespoonfuls of yeast1 #a_/d oz4 of salt4 ,mode4--,boil the rice in water until it is quite tender2 pour off the water1 and put the rice1 before it is cold1 to the flour4 ,mix these well together with the yeast1 salt1 and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smooth dough2 let it rise by the side of the fire1 then form it into loaves1 and bake them from #a-a_/b to #b hours1 according to their size4 ,if the rice is boiled in milk instead of water1 it makes very delicious bread or cakes4 ,when boiled in this manner1 it may be mixed with the flour without straining the liquid from it4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,,indian-,,corn-,,flour ,,bread4 #agba4 ,,ingredients4--,to #d lbs4 of flour allow #b lbs4 of ,indian-corn flour1 #b tablespoonfuls of yeast1 #c pints of warm water1 #a_/d oz4 of salt4 ,mode4--,mix the two flours well together1 with the salt2 make a hole in the centre1 and stir the yeast up well with #a_/b pint of the warm water2 put this into the middle of the flour1 and mix enough of it with the yeast to make a thin batter2 throw a little flour over the surface of this batter1 cover the whole with a thick cloth1 and set it to rise in a warm place4 ,when the batter has nicely risen1 work the whole to a nice smooth dough1 adding the water as required2 knead it well1 and mould the dough into loaves2 let them rise for nearly #a_/b hour1 then put them into a well-heated oven4 ,if made into #b loaves1 they will require from #a-a_/b to #b hours baking4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,illustration3 ,,maize ,,plant4 ,illustration3 ,,ear ,,of ,,maize4 ,,maize4--,next to wheat and rice1 maize is the grain most used in the nourishment of man4 ,in ,asia1 ,africa1 and ,america1 it is the principal daily food of a large portion of the population1 especially of the colonists4 ,in some of the provinces of ,france1 too1 it is consumed in large quantities4 ,there are eight varieties of the maize2 the most productive is the maize of ,cusco4 ,the flour of maize is yellow1 and it contains an oily matter1 which1 when fresh1 gives it an agreeable flavour and odour2 but the action of the air on it soon develops rancidity4 ,if carried any distance1 it should be stored away in air-tight vessels4 ,an excellent soup is prepared with meat and maize-flour4 ,the inhabitants of some countries1 where wheat is scarce1 make1 with maize and water1 or milk and salt1 a kind of biscuit1 which is pleasant in taste1 but indigestible4 ,some of the preparations of maize-flour are very good1 and1 when partaken in moderation1 suitable food for almost everybody4 ,,soda ,,bread4 #agbb4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #b lbs4 of flour allow #a teaspoonful of tartaric acid1 #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 #b breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk4 ,mode4--,let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the finest possible powder2 then mix them well with the flour4 ,dissolve the soda in the milk1 and pour it several times from one basin to another1 before adding it to the flour4 ,work the whole quickly into a light dough1 divide it into #b loaves1 and put them into a well-heated oven immediately1 and bake for an hour4 ,sour milk or buttermilk may be used1 but then a little less acid will be needed4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,,polish ,,and ,,pomeranian ,,wheat are accounted by authorities most excellent4 ,large raft-like barges convey this grain down the rivers1 from the interior of the country to the seaports4 ,this corn is described as being white1 hard1 and thin-skinned2 and it yields a large quantity of flour1 having a small proportion of bran4 ,,excellent ,,rolls4 #agbc4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #a oz4 of butter1 #a_/d pint of milk1 #a large teaspoonful of yeast1 a little salt4 ,illustration3 ,,rolls4 ,mode4--,warm the butter in the milk1 add to it the yeast and salt1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,put the flour into a pan1 stir in the above ingredients1 and let the dough rise1 covered in a warm place4 ,knead it well1 make it into rolls1 let them rise again for a few minutes1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,richer rolls may be made by adding #a or #b eggs and a larger proportion of butter1 and their appearance improved by brushing the tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk4 ,time--#a lb4 of flour1 divided into #f rolls1 from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,,hot ,,rolls4 #agbd4 ,this dish1 although very unwholesome and indigestible1 is nevertheless a great favourite1 and eaten by many persons4 ,as soon as the rolls come from the baker's1 they should be put into the oven1 which1 in the early part of the morning1 is sure not to be very hot2 and the rolls must not be buttered until wanted4 ,when they are quite hot1 divide them lengthwise into three2 put some thin flakes of good butter between the slices1 press the rolls together1 and put them in the oven for a minute or two1 but not longer1 or the butter would oil2 take them out of the oven1 spread the butter equally over1 divide the rolls in half1 and put them on to a very hot clean dish1 and send them instantly to table4 ,,to ,,make ,,dry ,,toast4 #agbe4 ,to make dry toast properly1 a great deal of attention is required2 much more1 indeed1 than people generally suppose4 ,never use new bread for making any kind of toast1 as it eats heavy1 and1 besides1 is very extravagant4 ,procure a loaf of household bread about two days old2 cut off as many slices as may be required1 not quite #a_/d inch in thickness2 trim off the crusts and ragged edges1 put the bread on a toasting-fork1 and hold it before a very clear fire4 ,move it backwards and forwards until the bread is nicely coloured2 then turn it and toast the other side1 and do not place it so near the fire that it blackens4 ,dry toast should be more gradually made than buttered toast1 as its great beauty consists in its crispness1 and this cannot be attained unless the process is slow and the bread is allowed gradually to colour4 ,it should never be made long before it is wanted1 as it soon becomes tough1 unless placed on the fender in front of the fire4 ,as soon as each piece is ready1 it should be put into a rack1 or stood upon its edges1 and sent quickly to table4 ,,to ,,make ,,hot ,,buttered ,,toast4 #agbf4 ,a loaf of household bread about two days old answers for making toast better than cottage bread1 the latter not being a good shape1 and too crusty for the purpose4 ,cut as many nice even slices as may be required1 rather more than #a_/d inch in thickness1 and toast them before a very bright fire1 without allowing the bread to blacken1 which spoils the appearance and flavour of all toast4 ,when of a nice colour on both sides1 put it on a hot plate2 divide some good butter into small pieces1 place them on the toast1 set this before the fire1 and when the butter is just beginning to melt1 spread it lightly over the toast4 ,trim off the crust and ragged edges1 divide each round into #d pieces1 and send the toast quickly to table4 ,some persons cut the slices of toast across from corner to corner1 so making the pieces of a three-cornered shape4 ,soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces as soon as it is buttered1 and when all are ready1 that they should be piled lightly on the dish they are intended to be served on4 ,he says that by cutting through #d or #e slices at a time1 all the butter is squeezed out of the upper ones1 while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid4 ,it is highly essential to use good butter for making this dish4 ,,muffins4 #agbg4 ,,ingredients4--,to every quart of milk allow #a-a_/b oz4 of ,german yeast1 a little salt2 flour4 ,illustration3 ,,muffins4 ,mode4--,warm the milk1 add to it the yeast1 and mix these well together2 put them into a pan1 and stir in sufficient flour to make the whole into a dough of rather a soft consistence2 cover it over with a cloth1 and place it in a warm place to rise1 and1 when light and nicely risen1 divide the dough into pieces1 and round them to the proper shape with the hands2 place them1 in a layer of flour about two inches thick1 on wooden trays1 and let them rise again2 when this is effected1 they each will exhibit a semi-globular shape4 ,then place them carefully on a hot-plate or stove1 and bake them until they are slightly browned1 turning them when they are done on one side4 ,muffins are not easily made1 and are more generally purchased than manufactured at home4 ,to toast them1 divide the edge of the muffin all round1 by pulling it open1 to the depth of about an inch1 with the fingers4 ,put it on a toasting-fork1 and hold it before a very clear fire until one side is nicely browned1 but not burnt2 turn1 and toast it on the other4 ,do not toast them too quickly1 as1 if this is done1 the middle of the muffin will not be warmed through4 ,when done1 divide them by pulling them open2 butter them slightly on both sides1 put them together again1 and cut them into halves3 when sufficient are toasted and buttered1 pile them on a very hot dish1 and send them very quickly to table4 ,time4--,from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour to bake them4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a muffin to each person4 ,,crumpets4 ,illustration3 ,,crumpets4 #agbh4 ,these are made in the same manner as muffins2 only1 in making the mixture1 let it be more like batter than dough4 ,let it rise for about #a_/b hour2 pour it into iron rings1 which should be ready on a hot-plate2 bake them1 and when one side appears done1 turn them quickly on the other4 ,to toast them1 have ready a very bright clear fire2 put the crumpet on a toasting-fork1 and hold it before the fire1 not too close1 until it is nicely brown on one side1 but do not allow it to blacken4 ,turn it1 and brown the other side2 then spread it with good butter1 cut it in half1 and1 when all are done1 pile them on a hot dish1 and send them quickly to table4 ,muffins and crumpets should always be served on separate dishes1 and both toasted and served as expeditiously as possible4 ,time4--,from #aj to #ae minutes to bake them4 ,sufficient4--,allow #b crumpets to each person4 ,,plain ,,buns4 #agbi4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #b lbs4 of flour allow #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b gill of yeast1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 warm milk4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin1 mix the sugar well with it1 make a hole in the centre1 and stir in the yeast and milk 7which should be lukewarm71 with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream4 ,cover the basin over with a cloth1 and let the sponge rise in a warm place1 which will be accomplished in about #a-a_/b hour4 ,melt the butter1 but do not allow it to oil2 stir it into the other ingredients1 with enough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough2 then mould it into buns about the size of an egg2 lay them in rows quite #c inches apart2 set them again in a warm place1 until they have risen to double their size2 then put them into a good brisk oven1 and just before they are done1 wash them over with a little milk4 ,from #ae to #bj minutes will be required to bake them nicely4 ,these buns may be varied by adding a few currants1 candied peel1 or caraway seeds to the other ingredients2 and the above mixture answers for hot cross buns1 by putting in a little ground allspice2 and by pressing a tin mould in the form of a cross in the centre of the bun4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,sufficient to make #ah buns4 ,,to ,,make ,,good ,,plain ,,buns4 #agcj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of good butter1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a egg1 nearly #a_/d pint of milk1 #b small teaspoonfuls of baking-powder1 a few drops of essence of lemon4 ,mode4--,warm the butter1 without oiling it2 beat it with a wooden spoon2 stir the flour in gradually with the sugar1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,make the milk lukewarm1 beat up with it the yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon1 and stir these to the flour1 c4 ,add the baking-powder1 beat the dough well for about #aj minutes1 divide it into #bd pieces1 put them into buttered tins or cups1 and bake in a brisk oven from #bj to #cj minutes4 ,time4--#bj to #cj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to make #ab buns4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,light ,,buns4 ,illustration3 ,,buns4 #agca4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b teaspoonful of tartaric acid1 #a_/b teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda1 #a lb4 of flour1 #b oz4 of butter1 #b oz4 of loaf sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of currants or raisins1--when liked1 a few caraway seeds1 #a_/b pint of cold new milk1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,rub the tartaric acid1 soda1 and flour all together through a hair sieve2 work the butter into the flour2 add the sugar1 currants1 and caraway seeds1 when the flavour of them latter is liked4 ,mix all these ingredients well together2 make a hole in the middle of the flour1 and pour in the milk1 mixed with the egg1 which should be well beaten2 mix quickly1 and set the dough1 with a fork1 on baking-tins1 and bake the buns for about #bj minutes4 ,this mixture makes a very good cake1 and if put into a tin1 should be baked #a-a_/b hour4 ,the same quantity of flour1 soda1 and tartaric acid1 with #a_/b pint of milk and a little salt1 will make either bread or teacakes1 if wanted quickly4 ,time4--#bj minutes for the buns2 if made into a cake1 #a-a_/b hour4 ,sufficient to make about #ab buns4 ,,victoria ,,buns4 #agcb4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a egg1 #a-a_/b oz4 of ground rice1 #b oz4 of butter1 #a-a_/b oz4 of currants1 a few thin slices of candied peel2 flour4 ,mode4--,whisk the egg1 stir in the sugar1 and beat these ingredients well together2 beat the butter to a cream1 stir in the ground rice1 currants1 and candied peel1 and as much flour as will make it of such a consistency that it may be rolled into #g or #h balls4 ,put these on to a buttered tin1 and bake them from #a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,they should be put into the oven immediately1 or they will become heavy2 and the oven should be tolerably brisk4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make #g or #h buns4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,italian ,,rusks4 #agcc4 ,a stale ,savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good rusks in the following manner4 ,cut the cake into slices1 divide each slice in two2 put them on a baking-sheet1 in a slow oven1 and when they are of a nice brown and quite hard1 they are done4 ,they should be kept in a closed tin canister in a dry place1 to preserve their crispness4 ,illustration3 ,,pannicled ,,millet4 ,,pannicled ,,millet4--,this is the smallest-seeded of the corn-plants1 being a true grass2 but the number of the seeds in each ear makes up for their size4 ,it grows in sandy soils that will not do for the cultivation of many other kinds of grain1 and forms the chief sustenance in the arid districts of ,arabia1 ,syria1 ,nubia1 and parts of ,india4 ,it is not cultivated in ,england1 being principally confined to the ,east4 ,the nations who make use of it grind it1 in the primitive manner1 between two stones1 and make it into a diet which1 cannot be properly called bread1 but rather a kind of soft thin cake half-baked4 ,when we take into account that the ,arabians are fond of lizards and locusts as articles of food1 their cuisine1 altogether1 is scarcely a tempting one4 ,,to ,,make ,,rusks4 7,suffolk ,recipe47 #agcd4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #b oz4 of butter1 #a_/d pint of milk1 #b oz4 of loaf sugar1 #c eggs1 #a tablespoonful of yeast4 ,illustration3 ,,rusks4 ,mode4--,put the milk and butter into a saucepan1 and keep shaking it round until the latter is melted4 ,put the flour into a basin with the sugar1 mix these well together1 and beat the eggs4 ,stir them with the yeast to the milk and butter1 and with this liquid work the flour into a smooth dough4 ,cover a cloth over the basin1 and leave the dough to rise by the side of the fire2 then knead it1 and divide it into #ab pieces2 place them in a brisk oven1 and bake for about #bj minutes4 ,take the rusks out1 break them in half1 and then set them in the oven to get crisp on the other side4 ,when cold1 they should be put into tin canisters to keep them dry2 and1 if intended for the cheese course1 the sifted sugar should be omitted4 ,time4--#bj minutes to bake the rusks2 #e minutes to render them crisp after being divided4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient to make #b dozen rusks4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,almond ,,icing ,,for ,,cakes4 #agce4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of finely-pounded loaf sugar allow #a lb4 of sweet almonds1 the whites of #d eggs1 a little rose-water4 ,mode4--,blanch the almonds1 and pound them 7a few at a time7 in a mortar to a paste1 adding a little rose-water to facilitate the operation4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth2 mix them with the pounded almonds1 stir in the sugar1 and beat altogether4 ,when the cake is sufficiently baked1 lay on the almond icing1 and put it into the oven to dry4 ,before laying this preparation on the cake1 great care must be taken that it is nice and smooth1 which is easily accomplished by well beating the mixture4 ,,sugar ,,icing ,,for ,,cakes4 #agcf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of loaf sugar allow the whites of #d eggs1 #a oz4 of fine starch4 ,mode4--,beat the eggs to a strong froth1 and gradually sift in the sugar1 which should be reduced to the finest possible powder1 and gradually add the starch1 also finely powdered4 ,beat the mixture well until the sugar is smooth2 then with a spoon or broad knife lay the icing equally over the cakes4 ,these should then be placed in a very cool oven1 and the icing allowed to dry and harden1 but not to colour4 ,the icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-juice1 or with prepared cochineal4 ,if it be put on the cakes as soon as they are withdrawn from the oven1 it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes are cold4 ,on very rich cakes1 such as wedding1 christening cakes1 c41 a layer of almond icing1 ,no4 #agce1 is usually spread over the top1 and over that the white icing as described4 ,all iced cakes should be kept in a very dry place4 ,,biscuit ,,powder1 generally used for ,infants' ,food4 #agcg4 ,this powder may be purchased in tin canisters1 and may also be prepared at home4 ,dry the biscuits well in a slow oven2 roll them and grind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board1 until they are reduced to powder2 sift it through a close hair sieve1 and it is fit for use4 ,it should be kept in well-covered tins1 and in a dry place4 ,,arrowroot ,,biscuits ,,or ,,drops4 #agch4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of butter1 #f eggs1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #f oz4 of arrowroot1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 whisk the eggs to a strong froth1 add them to the butter1 stir in the flour a little at a time1 and beat the mixture well4 ,break down all the lumps from the arrowroot1 and add that with the sugar to the other ingredients4 ,mix all well together1 drop the dough on a buttered tin1 in pieces the size of a shilling1 and bake the biscuits about #a_/d hour in a slow oven4 ,time4--#a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make from #c to #d dozen biscuits4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,nice ,,breakfast ,,cakes4 #agci4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b teaspoonful of tartaric acid1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 #a-a_/b breakfast-cupful of milk1 #a oz4 of sifted loaf sugar1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,these cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread ,no4 #agbb1 with the addition of eggs and sugar4 ,mix the flour1 tartaric acid1 and salt well together1 taking care that the two latter ingredients are reduced to the finest powder1 and stir in the sifted sugar1 which should also be very fine4 ,dissolve the soda in the milk1 add the eggs1 which should be well whisked1 and with this liquid work the flour1 c4 into a light dough4 ,divide it into small cakes1 put them into the oven immediately1 and bake for about #bj minutes4 ,time4--#bj minutes4 ,,cocoa-,,nut ,,biscuits ,,or ,,cakes4 #agdj4 ,,ingredients4--#aj oz4 of sifted sugar1 #c eggs1 #f oz4 of grated cocoa-nut4 ,mode4--,whisk the eggs until they are very light2 add the sugar gradually2 then stir in the cocoa-nut4 ,roll a tablespoonful of the paste at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid2 place the pyramids on paper1 put the paper on tins1 and bake the biscuits in rather a cool oven until they are just coloured a light brown4 ,time4--,about #a_/d hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,crisp ,,biscuits4 #agda4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 the yolk of #a egg1 milk4 ,mode4--,mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk to make the whole into a very stiff paste2 beat it well1 and knead it until it is perfectly smooth4 ,roll the paste out very thin2 with a round cutter shape it into small biscuits1 and bake them a nice brown in a slow oven from #ab to #ah minutes4 ,time4--#ab to #ah minutes4 ,average cost1 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,dessert ,,biscuits1 which may be flavoured with ,ground ,ginger1 ,cinnamon1 c4 c4 #agdb4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of sifted sugar1 the yolks of #f eggs1 flavouring to taste4 ,mode4--,put the butter into a basin2 warm it1 but do not allow it to oil2 then with the hand beat it to a cream4 ,add the flour by degrees1 then the sugar and flavouring1 and moisten the whole with the yolks of the eggs1 which should previously be well beaten4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated1 drop the mixture from a spoon on to a buttered paper1 leaving a distance between each cake1 as they spread as soon as they begin to get warm4 ,bake in rather a slow oven from #ab to #ah minutes1 and do not let the biscuits acquire too much colour4 ,in making the above quantity1 half may be flavoured with ground ginger and the other half with essence of lemon or currants1 to make a variety4 ,with whatever the preparation is flavoured1 so are the biscuits called2 and an endless variety may be made in this manner4 ,time4--#ab to #ah minutes1 or rather longer1 in a very slow oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make from #c to #d dozen cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,biscuits4 #agdc--;,,ingredients4--#a-a_/d lb4 of flour1 #c_/d lb4 of loaf sugar1 #f oz4 of fresh butter1 #d eggs1 #a oz4 of lemon-peel1 #b dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,mode4--,rub the flour into the butter2 stir in the pounded sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel1 and when these ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 add the eggs1 which should be previously well whisked1 and the lemon-juice4 ,beat the mixture well for a minute or two1 then drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin1 about #b inches apart1 as the cakes will spread when they get warm2 place the tin in the oven1 and bake the cakes of a pale brown from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,macaroons4 #agdd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/b lb4 of sifted loaf sugar1 the whites of #c eggs1 wafer-paper4 ,illustration3 ,,macaroons4 ,mode4--,blanch1 skin1 and dry the almonds1 and pound them well with a little orange-flower water or plain water2 then add to them the sifted sugar and the whites of the eggs1 which should be beaten to a stiff froth1 and mix all the ingredients well together4 ,when the paste looks soft1 drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-syringe on to sheets of wafer-paper2 put a strip of almond on the top of each2 strew some sugar over1 and bake the macaroons in rather a slow oven1 of a light brown colour when hard and set1 they are done1 and must not be allowed to get very brown1 as that would spoil their appearance4 ,if the cakes1 when baked1 appear heavy1 add a little more white of egg1 but let this always be well whisked before it is added to the other ingredients4 ,we have given a recipe for making these cakes1 but we think it almost or quite as economical to purchase such articles as these at a good confectioner's4 ,time4--,from #ae to #bj minutes1 in a slow oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 per lb4 ,,ratafias4 ,illustration3 ,,ratafias4 #agde4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/d lb4 of bitter ones1 #c_/d lb4 of sifted loaf sugar1 the whites of #d eggs4 ,mode4--,blanch1 skin1 and dry the almonds1 and pound them in a mortar with the white of an egg2 stir in the sugar1 and gradually add the remaining whites of eggs1 taking care that they are very thoroughly whisked4 ,drop the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on to cartridge paper1 and bake the cakes from #aj to #ab minutes in rather a quicker oven than for macaroons4 ,a very small quantity should be dropped on the paper to form one cake1 as1 when baked1 the ratafias should be about the size of a large button4 ,time4--#aj to #ab minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 per lb4 ,,rice ,,biscuits ,,or ,,cakes4 #agdf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #a_/b lb4 of rice-flour allow #a_/d lb4 of pounded lump sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b eggs4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream1 stir in the rice-flour and pounded sugar1 and moisten the whole with the eggs1 which should be previously well beaten4 ,roll out the paste1 shape it with a round paste-cutter into small cakes1 and bake them from #ab to #ah minutes in a very slow oven4 ,time4--#ab to #ah minutes4 ,average cost1 #i;d4 ,sufficient to make about #ah cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,ground ,,rice1 or rice-flour1 is used for making several kinds of cakes1 also for thickening soups1 and for mixing with wheaten flour in producing ,manna ,kroup4 ,the ,americans make rice-bread1 and prepare the flour for it in the following manner3--,when the rice is thoroughly cleansed1 the water is drawn off1 and the rice1 while damp1 bruised in a mortar3 it is then dried1 and passed through a hair sieve4 ,,rock ,,biscuits4 #agdg4 ,,ingredients4--#f eggs1 #a lb4 of sifted sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 a few currants4 ,mode4--,break the eggs into a basin1 beat them well until very light1 add the pounded sugar1 and when this is well mixed with the eggs1 dredge in the flour gradually1 and add the currants4 ,mix all well together1 and put the dough1 with a fork1 on the tins1 making it look as rough as possible4 ,bake the cakes in a moderate oven from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour2 when they are done1 allow them to get cool1 and store them away in a tin canister1 in a dry place4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,savoy ,,biscuits ,,or ,,cakes4 #agdh4 ,,ingredients4--#d eggs1 #f oz4 of pounded sugar1 the rind of #a lemon1 #f oz4 of flour4 ,mode4--,break the eggs into a basin1 separating the whites from the yolks2 beat the yolks well1 mix with them the pounded sugar and grated lemon-rind1 and beat these ingredients together for #a_/d hour4 ,then dredge in the flour gradually1 and when the whites of the eggs have been whisked to a solid froth1 stir them to the flour1 c42 beat the mixture well for another #e minutes1 then draw it along in strips upon thick cartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit1 and bake them in rather a hot oven2 but let them be carefully watched1 as they are soon done1 and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil them4 ,these biscuits1 or ladies'-fingers1 as they are called1 are used for making ,charlotte russes1 and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes4 ,time4--#e to #h minutes1 in a quick oven4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 per lb41 or #a_/b;d4 each4 ,,seed ,,biscuits4 #agdi4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of sifted sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #c eggs4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 stir in the flour1 sugar1 and caraway seeds2 and when these ingredients are well mixed1 add the eggs1 which should be well whisked4 ,roll out the paste1 with a round cutter shape out the biscuits1 and bake them in a moderate oven from #aj to #ae minutes4 ,the tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk or the white of an egg1 and then a little sugar strewn over4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to make #c dozen biscuits4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,simple ,,hard ,,biscuits4 #agej4 ,,ingredients4--,to every lb4 of flour allow #b oz4 of butter1 about #a_/b pint of skimmed milk4 ,mode4--,warm the butter in the milk until the former is dissolved1 and then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste2 beat it with a rolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth4 ,roll it out thin2 cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits2 prick them well1 and bake them from #f to #aj minutes4 ,the above is the proportion of milk which we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste2 but should it be found too much1 an extra spoonful or two of flour must be put in4 ,these biscuits are very nice for the cheese course4 ,time4--#f to #aj minutes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,soda ,,biscuits4 #agea4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh butter1 #b eggs1 #a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,put the flour 7which should be perfectly dry7 into a basin2 rub in the butter1 add the sugar1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,whisk the eggs1 stir them into the mixture1 and beat it well1 until everything is well incorporated4 ,quickly stir in the soda1 roll the paste out until it is about #a_/b inch thick1 cut it into small round cakes with a tin cutter1 and bake them from #ab to #ah minutes in rather a brisk oven4 ,after the soda is added1 great expedition is necessary in rolling and cutting out the paste1 and in putting the biscuits immediately into the oven1 or they will be heavy4 ,time4--#ab to #ah minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to make about #c dozen cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,almond ,,cake4 #ageb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of sweet almonds1 #a oz4 of bitter almonds1 #f eggs1 #h tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 #e tablespoonfuls of fine flour1 the grated rind of #a lemon1 #c oz4 of butter4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds to a paste2 separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs2 beat the latter1 and add them to the almonds4 ,stir in the sugar1 flour1 and lemon-rind2 add the butter1 which should be beaten to a cream2 and when all these ingredients are well mixed1 put in the whites of the eggs1 which should be whisked to a stiff froth4 ,butter a cake-mould1 put in the mixture1 and bake in a good oven from #a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,time4--#a-a_/d to #a-c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rich ,,bride ,,or ,,christening ,,cake4 #agec4 ,,ingredients4--#e lbs4 of the finest flour1 #c lbs4 of fresh butter1 #e lbs4 of currants1 #b lbs4 of sifted loaf sugar1 #b nutmegs1 #a_/d oz4 of mace1 half #a_/d oz4 of cloves1 #af eggs1 #a lb4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/b lb4 of candied citron1 #a_/b lb4 each of candied orange and lemon peel1 #a gill of wine1 #a gill of brandy4 ,mode4--,let the flour be as fine as possible1 and well dried and sifted2 the currants washed1 picked1 and dried before the fire2 the sugar well pounded and sifted2 the nutmegs grated1 the spices pounded2 the eggs thoroughly whisked1 whites and yolks separately2 the almonds pounded with a little orange-flower water1 and the candied peel cut in neat slices4 ,when all these ingredients are prepared1 mix them in the following manner4 ,begin working the butter with the hand till it becomes of a cream-like consistency2 stir in the sugar1 and when the whites of the eggs are whisked to a solid froth1 mix them with the butter and sugar2 next1 well beat up the yolks for #aj minutes1 and1 adding them to the flour1 nutmegs1 mace1 and cloves1 continue beating the whole together for #a_/b hour or longer1 till wanted for the oven4 ,then mix in lightly the currants1 almonds1 and candied peel with the wine and brandy2 and having lined a hoop with buttered paper1 fill it with the mixture1 and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven1 taking care1 however1 not to burn it3 to prevent this1 the top of it may be covered with a sheet of paper4 ,to ascertain whether the cake is done1 plunge a clean knife into the middle of it1 withdraw it directly1 and if the blade is not sticky1 and looks bright1 the cake is sufficiently baked4 ,these cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond icing1 and over that another layer of sugar icing1 and afterwards ornamented4 ,in baking a large cake like this1 great attention must be paid to the heat of the oven2 it should not be too fierce1 but have a good soaking heat4 ,time4--#e to #f hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per lb4 ,,christmas ,,cake4 #aged4 ,,ingredients4--#e teacupfuls of flour1 #a teacupful of melted butter1 #a teacupful of cream1 #a teacupful of treacle1 #a teacupful of moist sugar1 #b eggs1 #a_/b oz4 of powdered ginger1 #a_/b lb4 of raisins1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 #a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,mode4--,make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it1 but do not allow it to oil2 put the flour into a basin2 add to it the sugar1 ginger1 and raisins1 which should be stoned and cut into small pieces4 ,when these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 stir in the butter1 cream1 treacle1 and well-whisked eggs1 and beat the mixture for a few minutes4 ,dissolve the soda in the vinegar1 add it to the dough1 and be particular that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others2 put the cake into a buttered mould or tin1 place it in a moderate oven immediately1 and bake it from #a-c_/d to #b-a_/d hours4 ,time4--#a-c_/d to #b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,,common ,,cake1 suitable for sending to ,children at ,school4 #agee4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of flour1 #d oz4 of butter or clarified dripping1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a_/d oz4 of allspice1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded sugar1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a pint of milk1 #c tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast4 ,mode4--,rub the butter lightly into the flour2 add all the dry ingredients1 and mix these well together4 ,make the milk warm1 but not hot2 stir in the yeast1 and with this liquid make the whole into a light dough2 knead it well1 and line the cake-tins with strips of buttered paper2 this paper should be about #f inches higher than the top of the tin4 ,put in the dough2 stand it in a warm place to rise for more than an hour2 then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven4 ,if this quantity be divided in two1 they will take from #a-a_/b to #b hours' baking4 ,time4--#a-c_/d to #b-a_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to make #b moderate-sized cakes4 ,,economical ,,cake4 ,illustration3 ,,cake-,,mould4 #agef4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter or lard1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 the whites of #d eggs1 #a_/b pint of milk4 ,mode1--,in making many sweet dishes1 the whites of eggs are not required1 and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients1 make an excellent cake1 with or without currants4 ,beat the butter to a cream1 well whisk the whites of the eggs1 and stir all the ingredients together but the soda1 which must not be added until all is well mixed1 and the cake is ready to be put into the oven4 ,when the mixture has been well beaten1 stir in the soda1 put the cake into a buttered mould1 and bake it in a moderate oven for #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,a ,,nice ,,useful ,,cake4 #ageg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #f oz4 of currants1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar #a lb4 of dried flour1 #b teaspoonfuls of baking-powder1 #c eggs1 #a teacupful of milk1 #b oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a oz4 of candied peel4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 wash1 pick1 and dry the currants2 whisk the eggs2 blanch and chop the almonds1 and cut the peel into neat slices4 ,when all these are ready1 mix the dry ingredients together2 then add the butter1 milk1 and eggs1 and beat the mixture well for a few minutes4 ,put the cake into a buttered mould or tin1 and bake it for rather more than #a-a_/b hour4 ,the currants and candied peel may be omitted1 and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them3 made in this manner1 the cake will be found very good4 ,time4--,rather more than #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,,honey ,,cake4 #ageh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b breakfast-cupful of sugar1 #a breakfast-cupful of rich sour cream1 #b breakfast-cupfuls of flour1 #a_/b teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 honey to taste4 ,mode4--,mix the sugar and cream together2 dredge in the flour1 with as much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely2 stir it well1 that all the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed2 add the carbonate of soda1 and beat the cake well for another #e minutes2 put it into a buttered tin1 bake it from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 and let it be eaten warm4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,sufficient for #c or #d persons4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,rich ,,sweetmeat ,,gingerbread ,,nuts4 #agei4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of treacle1 #a_/d lb4 of clarified butter1 #a lb4 of coarse brown sugar1 #b oz4 of ground ginger1 #a oz4 of candied orange-peel1 #a oz4 of candied angelica1 #a_/b oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 #a_/b oz4 of coriander seeds1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a egg2 flour4 ,mode4--,put the treacle into a basin1 and pour over it the butter1 melted so as not to oil1 the sugar1 and ginger4 ,stir these ingredients well together1 and whilst mixing1 add the candied peel1 which should be cut into very small pieces1 but not bruised1 and the caraway and coriander seeds1 which should be pounded4 ,having mixed all thoroughly together1 break in an egg1 and work the whole up with as much fine flour as may be necessary to form a paste4 ,make this into nuts of any size1 put them on a tin plate1 and bake in a slow oven from #a_/d to #a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a_/d to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,thick ,,gingerbread4 #agfj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of treacle1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of coarse brown sugar1 #a-a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a oz4 of ginger1 #a_/b oz4 of ground allspice1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 #a_/d pint of warm milk1 #c eggs4 ,illustration3 ,,gingerbread4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin1 with the sugar1 ginger1 and allspice2 mix these together2 warm the butter1 and add it1 with the treacle1 to the other ingredients4 ,stir well2 make the milk just warm1 dissolve the carbonate of soda in it1 and mix the whole into a nice smooth dough with the eggs1 which should be previously well whisked2 pour the mixture into a buttered tin1 and bake it from #c_/d to #a hour1 or longer1 should the gingerbread be very thick4 ,just before it is done1 brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk1 and put it back in the oven to finish baking4 ,time4--#c_/d to #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per square4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sunderland ,,gingerbread ,,nuts4 7,an ,excellent ,recipe47 #agfa4 ,,ingredients4--#a-c_/d lb4 treacle1 #a lb4 of moist sugar1 #a lb4 of butter1 #b-c_/d lbs4 of flour1 #a-a_/b oz4 of ground ginger1 #a-a_/b oz4 of allspice1 #a-a_/b oz4 of coriander seeds4 ,mode4--,let the allspice1 coriander seeds1 and ginger be freshly ground2 put them into a basin1 with the flour and sugar1 and mix these ingredients well together2 warm the treacle and butter together2 then with a spoon work it into the flour1 c41 until the whole forms a nice smooth paste4 ,drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of buttered paper1 and bake in rather a slow oven from #bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,a little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an improvement1 and a great authority in culinary matters suggests the addition of a little cayenne pepper in gingerbread4 ,whether it be advisable to use this latter ingredient or not1 we leave our readers to decide4 ,time4--#bj minutes to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 to #as4 #d;d4 per lb4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,white ,,gingerbread4 #agfb4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a oz4 of ground ginger1 #a nutmeg grated1 #a_/b teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 #a gill of milk4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour2 add the sugar1 which should be finely pounded and sifted1 and the minced lemon-rind1 ginger1 and nutmeg4 ,mix these well together2 make the milk just warm1 stir in the soda1 and work the whole into a nice smooth paste2 roll it out1 cut it into cakes1 and bake in a moderate oven from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,good ,,holiday ,,cake4 #agfc4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b;d4 worth of ,borwick's ,german baking-powder1 #b lbs4 of flour1 #f oz4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of lard1 #a lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of stoned and cut raisins1 #a_/d lb4 of mixed candied peel1 #a_/b lb4 of moist sugar1 #c eggs1 #c_/d pint of cold milk4 ,mode4--,mix the baking-powder with the flour2 then rub in the butter and lard2 have ready the currants1 washed1 picked1 and dried the raisins stoned and cut into small pieces 7not chopped71 and the peel cut into neat slices4 ,add these with the sugar to the flour1 c41 and mix all the dry ingredients well together4 ,whisk the eggs1 stir to them the milk1 and with this liquid moisten the cake2 beat it up well1 that all may be very thoroughly mixed2 line a cake-tin with buttered paper1 put in the cake1 and bake it from #b-a_/d to #b-c_/d hours in a good oven4 ,to ascertain when it is done1 plunge a clean knife into the middle of it1 and if1 on withdrawing it1 the knife looks clean1 and not sticky1 the cake is done4 ,to prevent its burning at the top1 a piece of clean paper may be put over whilst the cake is soaking1 or being thoroughly cooked in the middle4 ,a steamer1 such as is used for steaming potatoes1 makes a very good cake-tin1 if it be lined at the bottom and sides with buttered paper4 ,time4--#b-a_/d to #b-c_/d hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemon ,,cake4 #agfd4 ,,ingredients4--#aj eggs1 #c tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water1 #c_/d lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a lemon1 #c_/d lb4 of flour4 ,illustration3 ,,cake-,,mould4 ,mode4--,separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs whisk the former to a stiff froth2 add the orange-flower water1 the sugar1 grated lemon-rind1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,then beat the yolks of the eggs1 and add them1 with the lemon-juice1 to the whites1 c42 dredge in the flour gradually2 keep beating the mixture well2 put it into a buttered mould1 and bake the cake about an hour1 or rather longer4 ,the addition of a little butter1 beaten to a cream1 we think1 would improve this cake4 ,time4--,about #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #d;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,luncheon ,,cake4 #agfe4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a oz4 of candied peel1 #c eggs1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine2 add the caraway seeds1 currants 7which should be nicely washed1 picked1 and dried71 sugar1 and candied peel cut into thin slices2 mix these well together1 and moisten with the eggs1 which should be well whisked4 ,boil the milk1 and add to it1 whilst boiling1 the carbonate of soda1 which must be well stirred into it1 and1 with the milk1 mix the other ingredients4 ,butter a tin1 pour the cake into it1 and bake it in a moderate oven from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,time4--#a to #ad hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,carbonate ,,of ,,soda--,soda was called the mineral alkali1 because it was originally dug up out of the ground in ,africa and other countries3 this state of carbonate of soda is called natron4 ,but carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion of marine plants1 or such as grow on the sea-shore4 ,pure carbonate of soda is employed for making effervescing draughts1 with lemon-juice1 citric acid1 or tartaric acid4 ,the chief constituent of soda1 the alkali1 has been used in ,france from time immemorial in the manufacture of soap and glass1 two chemical productions which employ and keep in circulation an immense amount of capital4 ,a small pinch of carbonate of soda will give an extraordinary lightness to puff pastes2 and1 introduced into the teapot1 will extract the full strength of the tea4 ,but its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate constitutions1 and it is not to be used incautiously in any preparation4 ,a ,,nice ,,plain ,,cake4 #agff4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a teaspoonful of ,borwick's baking-powder1 #a_/d lb4 of good dripping1 #a teacupful of moist sugar1 #c eggs1 #a breakfast-cupful of milk1 #a oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a_/b lb4 of currants4 ,mode4--,put the flour and baking-powder into a basin2 stir those together2 then rub in the dripping1 add the sugar1 caraway seeds1 and currants2 whisk the eggs with the milk1 and beat all together very thoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed4 ,butter a tin1 put in the cake1 and bake it from #aa_/b to #b hours4 ,let the dripping be quite clean before using3 to insure this1 it is a good plan to clarify it4 ,beef dripping is better than any other for cakes1 c41 as mutton dripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour1 which would be imparted to the preparation4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,nice ,,plain ,,cake ,,for ,,children4 #agfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a quartern of dough1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter or good beef dripping1 #a_/d pint of warm milk1 #a_/b grated nutmeg or #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds4 ,mode4--,if you are not in the habit of making bread at home1 procure the dough from the baker's1 and1 as soon as it comes in1 put it into a basin near the fire2 cover the basin with a thick cloth1 and let the dough remain a little while to rise4 ,in the mean time1 beat the butter to a cream1 and make the milk warm2 and when the dough has risen1 mix with it thoroughly all the above ingredients1 and knead the cake well for a few minutes4 ,butter some cake-tins1 half fill them1 and stand them in a warm place1 to allow the dough to rise again4 ,when the tins are three parts full1 put the cakes into a good oven1 and bake them from #ac_/d to #b hours4 ,a few currants might be substituted for the caraway seeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked4 ,time4--#a-c_/d to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #b;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,common ,,plum ,,cake4 #agfh4 ,,ingredients4--#c lbs4 of flour1 #f oz4 of butter or good dripping1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #f oz4 of currants1 #d oz4 of pounded allspice1 #b tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast1 #a pint of new milk4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour2 add the sugar1 currants1 and allspice2 warm the milk1 stir to it the yeast1 and mix the whole into a dough2 knead it well1 and put it into #f buttered tins2 place them near the fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise1 then bake the cakes in a good oven from #a to #aa_/d hour4 ,to ascertain when they are done1 plunge a clean knife into the middle1 and if on withdrawal it comes out clean1 the cakes are done4 ,time4--#a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient to make #f small cakes4 ,a ,,nice ,,plum ,,cake4 #agfi4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #b oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,put the flour into a basin with the sugar1 currants1 and sliced candied peel2 beat the butter to a cream1 and mix all these ingredients together with the milk4 ,stir the ammonia into #b tablespoonfuls of milk and add it to the dough1 and beat the whole well1 until everything is thoroughly mixed4 ,put the dough into a buttered tin1 and bake the cake from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,pound ,,cake4 ,illustration3 ,,pound ,,cake4 #aggj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of butter1 #a-a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a lb4 of currants1 #i eggs1 #b oz4 of candied peel1 #a_/b oz4 of citron1 #a_/b oz4 of sweet almonds2 when liked1 a little pounded mace4 ,mode4--,work the butter to a cream2 dredge in the flour2 add the sugar1 currants1 candied peel1 which should be cut into neat slices1 and the almonds1 which should be blanched and chopped1 and mix all these well together2 whisk the eggs1 and let them be thoroughly blended with the dry ingredients4 ,beat the cake well for #bj minutes1 and put it into a round tin1 lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white buttered paper4 ,bake it from #a-a_/b to #b hours1 and let the oven be well heated when the cake is first put in1 as1 if this is not the case1 the currants will all sink to the bottom of it4 ,to make this preparation light1 the yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately1 and added separately to the other ingredients4 ,a glass of wine is sometimes added to the mixture2 but this is scarcely necessary1 as the cake will be found quite rich enough without it4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sufficient4--,the above quantity divided in two will make two nice-sized cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,pavini ,,cake4 #agga4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of ground rice1 #a_/b lb4 of raisins stoned and cut into small pieces1 #a_/d lb4 of currants1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b oz4 of sweet almonds1 #a_/d lb4 of sifted loaf sugar1 #a_/b nutmeg grated1 #a pint of milk1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,stone and cut the raisins into small pieces2 wash1 pick1 and dry the currants2 melt the butter to a cream1 but without oiling it2 blanch and chop the almonds1 and grate the nutmeg4 ,when all these ingredients are thus prepared1 mix them well together2 make the milk warm1 stir in the soda1 and with this liquid make the whole into a paste4 ,butter a mould1 rather more than half fill it with the dough1 and bake the cake in a moderate oven from #a-a_/b to #b hours1 or less time should it be made into #b cakes4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,cake-,,mould4 ,,rice ,,cake4 #aggb4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of ground rice1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 #i eggs1 #bj drops of essence of lemon1 or the rind of #a lemon1 #a_/d lb4 of butter4 ,mode4--,separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs2 whisk them both well1 and add to the latter the butter beaten to a cream4 ,stir in the flour1 rice1 and lemon 7if the rind is used1 it must be very finely minced71 and beat the mixture well2 then add the whites of the eggs1 beat the cake again for some time1 put it into a buttered mould or tin1 and bake it for nearly #a-a_/b hour4 ,it may be flavoured with essence of almonds1 when this is preferred4 ,time4--,nearly #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,queen-,,cakes4 #aggc4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #c eggs1 #a teacupful of cream1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 essence of lemon1 or almonds to taste4 ,mode4--,work the butter to a cream2 dredge in the flour1 add the sugar and currants1 and mix the ingredients well together4 ,whisk the eggs1 mix them with the cream and flavouring1 and stir these to the flour2 add the carbonate of soda1 beat the paste well for #aj minutes1 put it into small buttered pans1 and bake the cake from #a_/d to #a_/b hour4 ,grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond flavouring1 which will make the cakes equally nice4 ,time4 #a_/d to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,saucer-,,cake ,,for ,,tea4 #aggd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of tous-les-mois1 #a_/d lb4 of pounded white sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of butter1 #b eggs1 #a oz4 of candied orange or lemon-peel4 ,mode4--,mix the flour and tous-les-mois together2 add the sugar1 the candied peel cut into thin slices1 the butter beaten to a cream1 and the eggs well whisked4 ,beat the mixture for #aj minutes1 put it into a buttered cake-tin or mould1 or1 if this is not obtainable1 a soup-plate answers the purpose1 lined with a piece of buttered paper4 ,bake the cake in a moderate oven from #a to #a-a_/d hour1 and when cold1 put it away in a covered canister4 ,it will remain good some weeks1 even if it be cut into slices4 ,time4--#a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,common ,,seed-,,cake4 #agge4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b quartern of dough1 #a_/d lb4 of good dripping1 #f oz4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a egg4 ,mode4--,if the dough is sent in from the baker's1 put it in a basin covered with a cloth1 and set it in a warm place to rise4 ,then with a wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid2 add it1 with the other ingredients1 to the dough1 and beat it until everything is very thoroughly mixed4 ,put it into a buttered tin1 and bake the cake for rather more than #b hours4 ,time4--,rather more than #b hours4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,a ,,very ,,good ,,seed-,,cake4 #aggf4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of butter1 #f eggs1 #c_/d lb4 of sifted sugar1 pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste1 #a lb4 of flour1 #c_/d oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a wineglassful of brandy4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 dredge in the flour2 add the sugar1 mace1 nutmeg1 and caraway seeds1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,whisk the eggs1 stir to them the brandy1 and beat the cake again for #aj minutes4 ,put it into a tin lined with buttered paper1 and bake it from #a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,this cake would be equally nice made with currants1 and omitting the caraway seeds4 ,time4--#a-a_/b to #b hours4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,bread-,,making ,,in ,,spain4--,the bread in the south of ,spain is delicious3 it is white as snow1 close as cake1 and yet very light2 the flavour is most admirable1 for the wheat is good and pure1 and the bread well kneaded4 ,the way they make this bread is as follows3--,from large round panniers filled with wheat they take out a handful at a time1 sorting it most carefully and expeditiously1 and throwing every defective grain into another basket4 ,this done1 the wheat is ground between two circular stones1 as it was ground in ,egypt #b1jjj years ago 7see ,no4 #aag71 the requisite rotary motion being given by a blindfolded mule1 which paces round and round with untiring patience1 a bell being attached to his neck1 which1 as long as he is in movement1 tinkles on2 and when it stops1 he is urged to his duty by the shout of ,arre1 mula1 from some one within hearing4 ,when ground1 the wheat is sifted through three sieves1 the last of these being so fine that only the pure flour can pass through it3 this is of a pale apricot-colour4 ,the bread is made in the evening4 ,it is mixed with only sufficient water1 with a little salt in it1 to make it into dough3 a very small quantity of leaven1 or fermenting mixture is added4 ,the ,scripture says1 ,a little leaven leaveneth the whole lump2 but in ,england1 to avoid the trouble of kneading1 many put as much leaven or yeast in one batch of household bread as in ,spain would last them a week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they send every night from their oven4 ,the dough made1 it is put into sacks1 and carried on the donkeys' backs to the oven in the centre of the village1 so as to bake it immediately it is kneaded4 ,on arriving there1 the dough is divided into portions weighing #c lbs4 each4 ,two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down the room2 and now a curious sight may be seen4 ,about twenty men 7bakers7 come in and range themselves on one side of the tables4 ,a lump of dough is handed to the nearest1 which he commences kneading and knocking about with all his might for about #c or #d minutes1 and then passes it on to his neighbour1 who does the same2 and so on successively until all have kneaded it1 when it becomes as soft as new putty1 and ready for the oven4 ,of course1 as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his neighbour1 another is given to him1 and so on till the whole quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them all4 ,the bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven1 and some of them are very small1 and they are baked immediately4 ,the ovens are very large1 and not heated by fires under them2 but a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and thyme1 which cover the hills in great profusion1 are put in the oven and ignited4 ,they heat the oven to any extent required2 and1 as the bread gets baked1 the oven gets gradually colder2 so the bread is never burned4 ,they knead the bread in ,spain with such force1 that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the fingers of the bakers are covered with corns2 and it so affects the chest1 that they cannot work more than two hours at a time4 ,,snow-,,cake4 #aggg4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of tous-les-mois1 #a_/d lb4 of white pounded sugar1 #a_/d lb4 of fresh or washed salt butter1 #a egg1 the juice of #a lemon4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 then add the egg1 previously well beaten1 and then the other ingredients2 if the mixture is not light1 add another egg1 and beat for #a_/d hour1 until it turns white and light4 ,line a flat tin1 with raised edges1 with a sheet of buttered paper2 pour in the cake1 and put it into the oven4 ,it must be rather slow1 and the cake not allowed to brown at all4 ,if the oven is properly heated1 #a to #a-a_/d hour will be found long enough to bake it4 ,let it cool a few minutes1 then with a clean sharp knife cut it into small square pieces1 which should be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool before putting away4 ,this will keep for several weeks4 ,time4--#a to #a-a_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,snow-,,cake4 7,a genuine ,scotch ,recipe47 #aggh4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of arrowroot1 #a_/b lb4 of pounded white sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 the whites of #f eggs2 flavouring to taste1 of essence of almonds1 or vanilla1 or lemon4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream2 stir in the sugar and arrowroot gradually1 at the same time beating the mixture4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth1 add them to the other ingredients1 and beat well for #bj minutes4 ,put in whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred2 pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin and bake it in a moderate oven from #a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,time4--#a to #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 with the best ,bermuda arrowroot1 #ds4 #f;d42 with ,st4 ,vincent ditto1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,scrap-,,cakes4 #aggi4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of leaf1 or the inside fat of a pig2 #a-a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/d lb4 of moist sugar1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a oz4 of candied lemon-peel1 ground allspice to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the leaf1 or flead1 as it is sometimes called1 into small pieces2 put it into a large dish1 which place in a quick oven2 be careful that it does not burn1 and in a short time it will be reduced to oil1 with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface2 and it is of these that the cakes should be made4 ,gather all the scraps together1 put them into a basin with the flour1 and rub them well together4 ,add the currants1 sugar1 candied peel1 cut into thin slices1 and the ground allspice4 ,when all these ingredients are well mixed1 moisten with sufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste2 roll it out thin1 cut it into shapes1 and bake the cakes in a quick oven from #ae to #bj minutes4 ,these are very economical and wholesome cakes for children1 and the lard1 melted at home1 produced from the flead1 is generally better than that you purchase4 ,to prevent the lard from burning1 and to insure its being a good colour1 it is better to melt it in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water2 by doing it in this manner1 there will be no chance of its discolouring4 ,time4--#ae to #bj minutes4 ,sufficient to make #c or #d dozen cakes4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,wheat4 ,wheat is liable to several diseases1 which affect the flour made from it1 and render it unfit for good bread4 ,the principal of these are the blight1 mildew1 and smut1 which are occasioned by microscopic fungi1 which sow themselves and grow upon the stems and ears1 destroying the nutritive principles1 and introducing matter of a deleterious kind4 ,the farmer is at the utmost pains to keep away these intruders4 ,wheat1 as well as all kinds of corn1 is also very liable to be injured by being stacked before it is quite dry2 in which case it will heat1 and become musty in the ricks4 ,in wet harvests it is sometimes impossible to get it sufficiently dried1 and a great deal of corn is thus often spoiled4 ,it is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is made from wheat threshed out before it is stacked2 which shows the importance of studying the best modes of preserving it4 ,the erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn3 some say it is ,egypt1 others ,tartary2 and the learned ,bailly1 as well as the traveller ,pallas1 affirms that it grows spontaneously in ,siberia4 ,be that as it may1 the ,phocians brought it to ,marseilles before the ,romans had penetrated into ,gaul4 ,the ,gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar3 they did not know1 for a long time1 how to make fermented bread4 ,,scotch ,,shortbread4 #aghj4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of flour1 #a lb4 of butter1 #a_/d lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of caraway seeds1 #a oz4 of sweet almonds1 a few strips of candied orange-peel4 ,illustration3 ,,shortbread4 ,mode4--,beat the butter to a cream1 gradually dredge in the flour1 and add the sugar1 caraway seeds1 and sweet almonds1 which should be blanched and cut into small pieces4 ,work the paste until it is quite smooth1 and divide it into six pieces4 ,put each cake on a separate piece of paper1 roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch1 and pinch it upon all sides4 ,prick it well1 and ornament with one or two strips of candied orange-peel4 ,put the cakes into a good oven1 and bake them from #be to #cj minutes4 ,time4--#be to #cj minutes4 ,average cost1 for this quantity1 #bs4 ,sufficient to make #f cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked1 omit them1 and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel4 ,,soda-,,cake4 #agha4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of butter1 #a lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of moist sugar1 #a teacupful of milk1 #c eggs1 #a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,rub the butter into the flour1 add the currants and sugar1 and mix these ingredients well together4 ,whisk the eggs well1 stir them to the flour1 c41 with the milk1 in which the soda should be previously dissolved1 and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon or beater4 ,divide the dough into two pieces1 put them into buttered moulds or cake-tins1 and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour4 ,the mixture must be extremely well beaten up1 and not allowed to stand after the soda is added to it1 but must be placed in the oven immediately4 ,great care must also be taken that the cakes are quite done through1 which may be ascertained by thrusting a knife into the middle of them3 if the blade looks bright when withdrawn1 they are done4 ,if the tops acquire too much colour before the inside is sufficiently baked1 cover them over with a piece of clean white paper1 to prevent them from burning4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make #b small cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,savoy ,,cake4 #aghb4 ,,ingredients4--,the weight of #d eggs in pounded loaf sugar1 the weight of #g in flour1 a little grated lemon-rind1 or essence of almonds1 or orange-flower water4 ,mode4--,break the #g eggs1 putting the yolks into one basin and the whites into another4 ,whisk the former1 and mix with them the sugar1 the grated lemon-rind1 or any other flavouring to taste2 beat them well together1 and add the whites of the eggs1 whisked to a froth4 ,put in the flour by degrees1 continuing to beat the mixture for #a_/d hour1 butter a mould1 pour in the cake1 and bake it from #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,this is a very nice cake for dessert1 and may be iced for a supper-table1 or cut into slices and spread with jam1 which converts it into sandwiches4 ,time4--#a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient for #a cake4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,sponge-,,cake4 ,i4 ,illustration3 ,,sponge-,,cake4 #aghc4 ,,ingredients4--,the weight of #h eggs in pounded loaf sugar1 the weight of #e in flour1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,mode4--,put the eggs into one side of the scale1 and take the weight of #h in pounded loaf sugar1 and the weight of #e in good dry flour4 ,separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs2 beat the former1 put them into a saucepan with the sugar1 and let them remain over the fire until milk-warm1 keeping them well stirred4 ,then put them into a basin1 add the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy1 and stir these well together1 dredging in the flour very gradually4 ,whisk the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth1 stir them to the flour1 c41 and beat the cake well for #a_/d hour4 ,put it into a buttered mould strewn with a little fine sifted sugar1 and bake the cake in a quick oven for #a-a_/b hour4 ,care must be taken that it is put into the oven immediately1 or it will not be light4 ,the flavouring of this cake may be varied by adding a few drops of essence of almonds instead of the grated lemon-rind4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 #c;d4 ,sufficient for #a cake4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration3 ,,egyptian ,,wheat4 ,the ,egyptian1 or ,mummy ,wheat1 is not grown to any great extent1 owing to its inferior quality2 but it is notable for its large produce1 and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and on small farms1 where quantity rather than quality is desired4 ,at ,wix1 in ,essex1 the seed of this wheat has produced1 without artificial assistance1 four thousandfold2 some of the ears have had eleven offshoots1 and have contained1 altogether1 eleven grains in one ear4 ,,ii4 #aghd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of loaf sugar1 not quite #a_/d pint of water1 #e eggs1 #a lemon1 #a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/d teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together until they form a thick syrup2 let it cool a little1 then pour it to the eggs1 which should be previously well whisked2 and after the eggs and syrup are mixed together1 continue beating them for a few minutes4 ,grate the lemon-rind1 mix the carbonate of soda with the flour1 and stir these lightly to the other ingredients2 then add the lemon-juice1 and1 when the whole is thoroughly mixed1 pour it into a buttered mould1 and bake in rather a quick oven for rather more than #a hour4 ,the remains of sponge or ,savoy cakes answer very well for trifles1 light puddings1 c42 and a very stale one 7if not mouldy7 makes an excellent tipsy-cake4 ,time4--,rather more than #a hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient to make #a cake4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,,small ,,sponge-,,cakes4 #aghe4 ,,ingredients4--,the weight of #e eggs in flour1 the weight of #h in pounded loaf sugar2 flavouring to taste4 ,mode4--,let the flour be perfectly dry1 and the sugar well pounded and sifted4 ,separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs1 and beat the latter up with the sugar2 then whisk the whites until they become rather stiff1 and mix them with the yolks1 but do not stir them more than is just necessary to mingle the ingredients well together4 ,dredge in the flour by degrees1 add the flavouring2 batter the tins well1 pour in the batter1 sift a little sugar over the cakes1 and bake them in rather a quick oven1 but do not allow them to take too much colour1 as they should be rather pale4 ,remove them from the tins before they get cold1 and turn them on their faces1 where let them remain until quite cold1 when store them away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glass bottle4 ,time4--#aj to #ae minutes in a quick oven4 ,average cost1 #a;d4 each4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,tea-,,cakes4 #aghf4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of flour1 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/d lb4 of butter or lard1 #a egg1 a piece of ,german yeast the size of a walnut1 warm milk4 ,mode4--,put the flour 7which should be perfectly dry7 into a basin mix with it the salt1 and rub in the butter or lard2 then beat the egg well1 stir to it the yeast1 and add these to the flour with as much warm milk as will make the whole into a smooth paste1 and knead it well4 ,let it rise near the fire1 and1 when well risen1 form it into cakes2 place them on tins1 let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them into the oven1 and bake from #a_/d to #a_/b hour in a moderate oven4 ,these are very nice with a few currants and a little sugar added to the other ingredients3 they should be put in after the butter is rubbed in4 ,these cakes should be buttered1 and eaten hot as soon as baked2 but1 when stale1 they are very nice split and toasted2 or1 if dipped in milk1 or even water1 and covered with a basin in the oven till hot1 they will be almost equal to new4 ,time4--#a_/d to #a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #aj;d4 ,sufficient to make #h tea-cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,toast ,,tea-,,cakes4 ,illustration3 ,,tea-,,cakes4 #aghg4 ,cut each tea-cake into three or four slices1 according to its thickness2 toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire1 and as each slice is done1 spread it with butter on both sides4 ,when a cake is toasted1 pile the slices one on the top of the other1 cut them into quarters1 put them on a very hot plate1 and send the cakes immediately to table4 ,as they are wanted1 send them in hot1 one or two at a time1 as1 if allowed to stand1 they spoil1 unless kept in a muffin-plate over a basin of boiling water4 ,a ,,nice ,,yeast-,,cake4 #aghh4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of flour1 #a_/b lb4 of butter1 #a_/b pint of milk1 #a-a_/b tablespoonful of good yeast1 #c eggs1 #c_/d lb4 of currants1 #a_/b lb4 of white moist sugar1 #b oz4 of candied peel4 ,mode4--,put the milk and butter into a saucepan1 and shake it round over a fire until the butter is melted1 but do not allow the milk to get very hot4 ,put the flour into a basin1 stir to it the milk and butter1 the yeast1 and eggs1 which should be well beaten1 and form the whole into a smooth dough4 ,let it stand in a warm place1 covered with a cloth1 to rise1 and1 when sufficiently risen1 add the currants1 sugar1 and candied peel cut into thin slices4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed1 line #b moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper1 which should be about six inches higher than the tin2 pour in the mixture1 let it stand to rise again for another #a_/b hour1 and then bake the cakes in a brisk oven for about #a-a_/b hour4 ,if the tops of them become too brown1 cover them with paper until they are done through4 ,a few drops of essence of lemon1 or a little grated nutmeg1 may be added when the flavour is liked4 ,time4--,from #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 #bs4 ,sufficient to make #b moderate-sized cakes4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,beverages4 #aghi4 ,beverages are innumerable in their variety2 but the ordinary beverages drunk in the ,british isles1 may be divided into three classes3--#a4 ,beverages of the simplest kind not fermented4 #b4 ,beverages1 consisting of water1 containing a considerable quantity of carbonic acid4 #c4 ,beverages composed partly of fermented liquors4 ,of the first class may be mentioned1--water1 toast-and-water1 barley-water1 eau sucr1 lait sucr1 cheese and milk whey1 milk-and-water1 lemonade1 orangeade1 sherbet1 apple and pear juice1 capillaire1 vinegar-and-water1 raspberry vinegar and water4 #agij4 ,of the common class of beverages1 consisting of water impregnated with carbonic acid gas1 we may name soda-water1 single and double1 ordinary effervescing draughts1 and ginger-beer4 #agia4 ,the beverages composed partly of fermented liquors1 are hot spiced wines1 bishop1 egg-flip1 egg-hot1 ale posset1 sack posset1 punch1 and spirits-and-water4 #agib4 ,we will1 however1 forthwith treat on the most popular of our beverages1 beginning with the one which makes the cup that cheers but not inebriates4 #agic4 ,the beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life4 ,previous to the middle of the #agth century it was not used in ,england1 and it was wholly unknown to the ,greeks and ,romans4 ,pepys says1 in his ,diary1--,september #beth1 #affa4--;,i sent for a cup of tea 7a ,china drink71 of which ,i had never drunk before4 ,two years later it was so rare a commodity in ,england1 that the ,english ,east-,india ,company bought #b lbs4 #b oz4 of it1 as a present for his majesty4 ,in #afff it was sold in ,london for sixty shillings a pound4 ,from that date the consumption has gone on increasing from #e1jjj lbs4 to #ej1jjj1jjj lbs4 #agid4 ,linnaeus was induced to think that there were two species of tea-plant1 one of which produced the black1 and the other the green teas2 but later observations do not confirm this4 ,when the leaves of black and green tea are expanded by hot water1 and examined by the botanist1 though a difference of character is perceived1 yet this is not sufficient to authorize considering them as distinct species4 ,the tea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions2 in ,china it is indigenous4 ,the part of ,china where the best tea is cultivated1 is called by us the tea country4 ,the cultivation of the plant requires great care4 ,it is raised chiefly on the sides of hills2 and1 in order to increase the quantity and improve the quality of the leaves1 the shrub is pruned1 so as not to exceed the height of from two to three feet1 much in the same manner as the vine is treated in ,france4 ,they pluck the leaves1 one selecting them according to the kinds of tea required2 and1 notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation1 each labourer is able to gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day4 ,when the trees attain to six or seven years of age1 the produce becomes so inferior that they are removed to make room for a fresh succession1 or they are cut down to allow of numerous young shoots4 ,teas of the finest flavour consist of the youngest leaves2 and as these are gathered at four different periods of the year1 the younger the leaves the higher flavoured the tea1 and the scarcer1 and consequently the dearer1 the article4 #agie4 ,the various names by which teas are sold in the ,british market are corruptions of ,chinese words4 ,there are about a dozen different kinds2 but the principal are ,bohea1 ,congou1 and ,souchong1 and signify1 respectively1 inferior1 middling1 and superior4 ,teas are often perfumed and flavoured with the leaves of different kinds of plants grown on purpose4 ,different tea-farms in ,china produce teas of various qualities1 raised by skilful cultivation on various soils4 #agif4 ,tea1 when chemically analyzed1 is found to contain woody fibre1 mucilage1 a considerable quantity of the astringent principle1 or tannin1 a narcotic principle1 which is1 perhaps1 connected with a peculiar aroma4 ,the tannin is shown by its striking a black colour with sulphate of iron1 and is the cause of the dark stain which is always formed when tea is spilt upon buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron4 ,a constituent called ,theine has also been discovered in tea1 supposed to be identical with ,caffeine1 one of the constituents of coffee4 ,liebig says1 ,theine yields1 in certain processes of decomposition1 a series of most remarkable products1 which have much analogy with those derived from uric acid in similar circumstances4 ,the infusion of tea differs from that of coffee1 by containing iron and manganese4 ,we have in tea1 of many kinds1 a beverage which contains the active constituents of the most powerful mineral springs1 and1 however small the amount of iron may be which we daily take in this form1 it cannot be destitute of influence on the vital processes4 #agig4 ,chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country1 by the admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants4 ,the leaves of the sloe1 white thorn1 ash1 elder1 and some others1 have been employed for this purpose2 such as the leaves of the speedwell1 wild germander1 black currants1 syringa1 purple-spiked willow-herb1 sweet-brier1 and cherry-tree4 ,some of these are harmless1 others are to a certain degree poisonous2 as1 for example1 are the leaves of all the varieties of the plum and cherry tribe1 to which the sloe belongs4 ,adulteration by means of these leaves is by no means a new species of fraud2 and several acts of parliament1 from the time of ,george ,,ii41 have been passed1 specifying severe penalties against those guilty of the offence1 which1 notwithstanding numerous convictions1 continues to the present time4 #agih4 ,in the purchase of tea1 that should be chosen which possesses an agreeable odour and is as whole as possible1 in order that the leaf may be easily examined4 ,the greatest care should be taken that it has not been exposed to the air1 which destroys its flavour4 #agii4 ,it would be impossible1 in the space at our command1 to enumerate the various modes adopted in different countries for making coffee2 that is1 the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparation of this delicious beverage for drinking4 ,for performing this operation1 such recipes or methods as we have found most practical will be inserted in their proper place2 but the following facts connected with coffee will be found highly interesting4 #ahjj4 ,the introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively of recent date4 ,we are assured by ,bruce that the coffee-tree is a native of ,abyssinia1 and it is said to have been cultivated in that country from time immemorial4 #ahja4 ,it appears that coffee was first introduced into ,england by ,daniel ,edwards1 a ,turkey merchant1 whose servant1 ,pasqua1 a ,greek1 understood the manner of roasting it4 ,this servant1 under the patronage of ,edwards1 established the first coffee-house in ,london1 in ,george ,yard1 ,lombard ,street4 ,coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound1 and a duty was soon afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon1 when made into a beverage4 ,in the course of two centuries1 however1 this berry1 unknown originally as an article of food1 except to some savage tribes on the confines of ,abyssinia1 has made its way through the whole of the civilized world4 ,mahommedans of all ranks drink coffee twice a day2 it is in universal request in ,france2 and the demand for it throughout the ,british isles is daily increasing1 the more especially since so much attention has been given to mechanical contrivances for roasting and grinding the berry and preparing the beverage4 #ahjb4 ,of the various kinds of coffee the ,arabian is considered the best4 ,it is grown chiefly in the districts of ,aden and ,mocha2 whence the name of our ,mocha coffee4 ,mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean than any other1 and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste4 ,the next in reputation and quality is the ,java and ,ceylon coffee1 and then the coffees of ,bourbon and ,martinique1 and that of ,berbice1 a district of the colony of ,british ,guiana4 ,the ,jamaica and ,st4 ,domingo coffees are less esteemed4 #ahjc4 ,a considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the constituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it4 ,independently of one of the objects of roasting1 namely1 that of destroying its toughness and rendering it easily ground1 its tannin and other principles are rendered partly soluble in water2 and it is to the tannin that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing4 ,an aromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction1 which is not perceived in the raw berry1 and which is not produced in the greatest perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of temperature2 but1 if the heat be increased beyond this1 the flavour is again dissipated1 and little remains but a bitter and astringent matter with carbon4 #ahjd4 ,the roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety1 and much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation4 ,the roasting of coffee for the dealers in ,london and ,paris has now become a separate branch of business1 and some of the roasters perform the operation on a great scale1 with considerable skill4 ,roasted coffee loses from #bj to #cj per cent1 by sufficient roasting1 and the powder suffers much by exposure to the air2 but1 while raw1 it not only does not lose its flavour for a year or two1 but improves by keeping4 ,if a cup of the best coffee be placed upon a table boiling hot1 it will fill the room with its fragrance2 but the coffee1 when warmed again after being cold1 will be found to have lost most of its flavour4 #ahje4 ,to have coffee in perfection1 it should be roasted and ground just before it is used1 and more should not be ground at a time than is wanted for immediate use1 or1 if it be necessary to grind more1 it should be kept closed from the air4 ,coffee readily imbibes exhalations from other substances1 and thus often acquires a bad flavour3 brown sugar placed near it will communicate a disagreeable flavour4 ,it is stated that the coffee in the ,west ,indies has often been injured by being laid in rooms near the sugar-works1 or where rum is distilled2 and the same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the same ships with rum and sugar4 ,dr4 ,moseley mentions that a few bags of pepper1 on board a ship from ,india1 spoiled a whole cargo of coffee4 #ahjf4 ,with respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the decoction1 much depends upon the taste of the consumer4 ,the greatest and most common fault in ,english coffee is the too small quantity of the ingredient4 ,count ,rumford says that to make good coffee for drinking after dinner1 a pound of good ,mocha coffee1 which1 when roasted and ground1 weighs only thirteen ounces1 serves to make fifty-six full cups1 or a little less than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate size4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,,to ,,make ,,chocolate4 #ahjg4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #a_/b oz4 of chocolate to each person2 to every oz4 allow #a_/b pint of water1 #a_/b pint of milk4 ,mode4--,make the milk-and-water hot2 scrape the chocolate into it1 and stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is dissolved2 bring it to the boiling-point1 stir it well1 and serve directly with white sugar4 ,chocolate prepared with in a mill1 as shown in the engraving1 is made by putting in the scraped chocolate1 pouring over it the boiling milk-and-water1 and milling it over the fire until hot and frothy4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a_/b oz4 of cake chocolate to each person4 ,illustration3 ,,mill4 ,,chocolate ,,and ,,cocoa4--,both these preparations are made from the seeds or beans of the cacao-tree1 which grows in the ,west ,indies and ,south ,america4 ,the ,spanish1 and the proper name1 is cacao1 not cocoa1 as it is generally spelt4 ,from this mistake1 the tree from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts1 which are the produce of the cocoa-tree 7,cocos nucifera71 whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different 7the ,theobroma cacao74 ,the cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitants of ,south ,america1 particularly in ,mexico1 where1 according to ,humboldt1 it was reared by ,montezuma4 ,it was transplanted thence into other dependencies of the ,spanish monarchy in #aebj2 and it was so highly esteemed by ,linnaeus receive from him the name now conferred upon it1 of ,theobroma1 a term derived from the ,greek1 and signifying food for gods4 ,chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the ,spaniards and ,creoles1 and was considered here as a great luxury when first introduced1 after the discovery of ,america2 but the high duties laid upon it1 confined it long almost entirely to the wealthier classes4 ,before it was subjected to duty1 ,mr4 ,bryan ,edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in ,jamaica1 but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin4 ,the removal of this duty has increased their cultivation4 7,for engraving of cocoa-bean1 see ,no4 #ahaf47 ,,to ,,make ,,essence ,,of ,,coffee4 #ahjh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #a_/d lb4 of ground coffee allow #a small teaspoonful of powdered chicory1 #c small teacupfuls1 or #a pint1 of water4 ,mode4--,let the coffee be freshly ground1 and1 if possible1 freshly roasted2 put it into a percolater1 or filter1 with the chicory1 and pour slowly over it the above proportion of boiling water4 ,when it has all filtered through1 warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the simmering-point1 but do not allow it to boil2 then filter it a second time1 put it into a clean and dry bottle1 cork it well1 and it will remain good for several days4 ,two tablespoonfuls of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk4 ,this essence will be found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely early2 and having only the milk to make boiling1 is very easily and quickly prepared4 ,when the essence is bottled1 pour another #c tea-cupfuls of boiling water slowly on the grounds1 which1 when filtered through1 will be a very weak coffee4 ,the next time there is essence to be prepared1 make this weak coffee boiling1 and pour it on the ground coffee instead of plain water3 by this means a better coffee will be obtained4 ,never throw away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner2 and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation1 until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh essence4 ,time4--,to be filtered once1 then brought to the boiling-point1 and filtered again4 ,average cost1 with coffee at #as4 #h;d4 per lb41 #f;d4 ,sufficient'-,allow #b tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk4 ,,to ,,roast ,,coffee4 7,a ,french ,recipe47 #ahji4 ,it being an acknowledged fact that ,french coffee is decidedly superior to that made in ,england1 and as the roasting of the berry is of great importance to the flavour of the preparation1 it will be useful and interesting to know how they manage these things in ,france4 ,in ,paris1 there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their coffee1--,la ,maison ,corcellet and ,la ,maison ,royer de ,chartres2 and to obtain this flavour1 before roasting they add to every #c lbs4 of coffee a piece of butter the size of a nut1 and a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar3 it is then roasted in the usual manner4 ,the addition of the butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry2 but it must be borne in mind1 that the quality of the butter must be of the very best description4 ,,to ,,make ,,coffee4 #ahaj4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #d oz41 or #a tablespoonful1 of ground coffee to each person2 to every oz4 of coffee allow #a_/c pint of water4 ,mode4--,to make coffee good1 it should never be boiled1 but the boiling water merely poured on it1 the same as for tea4 ,the coffee should always be purchased in the berry1--if possible1 freshly roasted2 and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use4 ,there are very many new kinds of coffee-pots1 but the method of making the coffee is nearly always the same2 namely1 pouring the boiling water on the powder1 and allowing it to filter through4 ,our illustration shows one of ,loysel's ,hydrostatic ,urns1 which are admirably adapted for making good and clear coffee1 which should be made in the following1 manner3--,warm the urn with boiling water1 remove the lid and movable filter1 and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn4 ,put the movable filter over this1 and screw the lid1 inverted1 tightly on the end of the centre pipe4 ,pour into the inverted lid the above proportion of boiling water1 and when all the water so poured has disappeared from the funnel1 and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through the ground coffee by hydrostatic pressure1 unscrew screw the lid and cover the urn4 ,pour back direct into the urn1 not through the funnel1 one1 two1 or three cups1 according to the size of the percolater1 in order to make the infusion of uniform strength2 the contents will then be ready for use1 and should run from the tap strong1 hot1 and clear4 ,the coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good1 and there is but one objection to them1--the coffee runs rather slowly from the tap4 ,this is of no consequence where there is a small party1 but tedious where there are many persons to provide for4 ,a remedy for this objection may be suggested2 namely1 to make the coffee very strong1 so that not more than #a_/c of a cup would be required1 as the rest would be filled up with milk4 ,making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with the necessity of using isinglass1 white of egg1 and various other preparations to clear it4 ,coffee should always be served very hot1 and1 if possible1 in the same vessel in which it is made1 as pouring it from one pot to another cools1 and consequently spoils it4 ,many persons may think that the proportion of water we have given for each oz4 of coffee is rather small2 it is so1 and the coffee produced from it will be very strong2 #a_/c of a cup will be found quite sufficient1 which should be filled with nice hot milk1 or milk and cream mixed4 ,this is the 'cafe au lait' for which our neighbours over the ,channel are so justly celebrated4 ,should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred1 use double the quantity of water1 and1 in pouring it into the cups1 put in more coffee and less milk4 ,illustration3 ,,loysel',s ,,hydrostatic ,,urn4 ,sufficient4--,for very good coffee1 allow #a_/b oz41 or #a tablespoonful1 to each person4 ,a ,,very ,,simple ,,method ,,of ,,making ,,coffee4 #ahaa4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #a_/b oz41 or #a tablespoonful1 of coffee to each person2 to every oz4 allow #a pint of water4 ,mode4--,have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot inside1 and to this ring sew a small muslin bag 7the muslin for the purpose must not be too thin74 ,fit the bag into the pot1 pour some boiling water in it1 and1 when the pot is well warmed1 put the ground coffee into the bag2 pour over as much boiling water as is required1 close the lid1 and1 when all the water has filtered through1 remove the bag1 and send the coffee to table4 ,making it in this manner prevents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another1 which cools and spoils it4 ,the water should be poured on the coffee gradually1 so that the infusion may be stronger2 and the bag must be well made1 that none of the grounds may escape through the seams1 and so make the coffee thick and muddy4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a tablespoonful1 or #a_/b oz41 to each person4 ,illustration3 ,,coffee4 ,,the ,,coffee ,,plant grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen feet1 with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel1 although more pointed1 and not so dry and thick4 ,the blossoms are white1 much like those of jasmine1 and issue from the angles of the leaf-stalks4 ,when the flowers fade1 they are succeeded by the coffee-bean1 or seed1 which is inclosed in a berry of a red colour1 when ripe resembling a cherry4 ,the coffee-beans are prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days1 that the pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture4 ,they are then gradually dried for about three weeks1 and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed4 ,,cafe ,,au ,,lait4 #ahab4 ,this is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion of good hot milk2 about #f tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk4 ,of the essence ,no4 #ahjh1 which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait'1 so much would not be required4 ,this preparation is infinitely superior to the weak watery coffee so often served at ,english tables4 ,a little cream mixed with the milk1 if the latter cannot be depended on for richness1 improves the taste of the coffee1 as also the richness of the beverage4 ,sufficient4--#f tablespoonfuls of strong coffee1 or #b tablespoonfuls of the essence1 to a breakfast-cupful of milk4 ,,tea ,,and ,,coffee4--,it is true1 says ,liebig1 that thousands have lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee2 and daily experience teaches us that1 under certain circumstances1 they may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal functions2 but it is an error1 certainly1 to conclude from this that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their effects2 and it is a question whether1 if we had no tea and no coffee1 the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the means of replacing them4 ,science1 which accuses us of so much in these respects1 will have1 in the first place1 to ascertain whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely1 that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means of acting on the nervous life1 from the shore of the ,pacific1 where the ,indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy the bliss of intoxication with koko1 to the ,arctic regions1 where ,kamtschatdales and ,koriakes prepare an intoxicating beverage from a poisonous mushroom4 ,we think it1 on the contrary1 highly probable1 not to say certain1 that the instinct of man1 feeling certain blanks1 certain wants of the intensified life of our times1 which cannot be satisfied or filled up by mere quantity1 has discovered1 in these products of vegetable life the true means of giving to his food the desired and necessary quality4 ,,cafe ,,noir4 #ahac4 ,this is usually handed round after dinner1 and should be drunk well sweetened1 with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs1 which may be added or not at pleasure4 ,the coffee should be made very strong1 and served in very small cups1 but never mixed with milk or cream4 ,cafe noir may be made of the essence of coffee ,no4 #ahjh1 by pouring a tablespoonful into each cup1 and filling it up with boiling water4 ,this is a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a large party1 but the essence for it must be made very good1 and kept well corked until required for use4 ,,to ,,make ,,tea4 #ahad4 ,there is very little art in making good tea2 if the water is boiling1 and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf1 the beverage will almost invariably be good4 ,the old-fashioned plan of allowing a teaspoonful to each person1 and one over1 is still practised4 ,warm the teapot with boiling water2 let it remain for two or three minutes for the vessel to become thoroughly hot1 then pour it away4 ,put in the tea1 pour in from #a_/b to #c_/d pint of boiling water1 close the lid1 and let it stand for the tea to draw from #e to #aj minutes2 then fill up the pot with water4 ,the tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is actually 'boiling'1 as the leaves will not open1 and the flavour not be extracted from them2 the beverage will consequently be colourless and tasteless1--in fact1 nothing but tepid water4 ,where there is a very large party to make tea for1 it is a good plan to have two teapots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot2 the tea1 besides1 will go farther4 ,when the infusion has been once completed1 the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength2 so1 when more is required1 have the pot emptied of the old leaves1 scalded1 and fresh tea made in the usual manner4 ,economists say that a few grains of carbonate of soda1 added before the boiling water is poured on the tea1 assist to draw out the goodness3 if the water is very hard1 perhaps it is a good plan1 as the soda softens it2 but care must be taken to use this ingredient sparingly1 as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste if added in too large a quantity4 ,for mixed tea1 the usual proportion is four spoonfuls of black to one of green2 more of the latter when the flavour is very much liked2 but strong green tea is highly pernicious1 and should never be partaken of too freely4 ,time4--#b minutes to warm the teapot1 #e to #aj minutes to draw the strength from the tea4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a teaspoonful to each person1 and one over4 ,,tea4--,the tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of ,monadelphia polyandria in the ,linnaean system1 and to the natural order of ,aurantiaceae in the system of ,jussieu4 ,lately it has been made into a new order1 the ,theasia1 which includes the ,camellia and some other plants4 ,it commonly grows to the height of from three to six feet2 but it is said1 that1 in its wild or native state1 it reaches twenty feet or more4 ,in ,china it is cultivated in numerous small plantations4 ,in its general appearance1 and the form of its leaf1 it resembles the myrtle4 ,the blossoms are white and fragrant1 not unlike those of the wild rose1 but smaller2 and they are succeeded by soft green capsules1 containing each from one to three white seeds4 ,these capsules are crushed for oil1 which is in general use in ,china4 ,illustration3 ,,tea4 ,,an ,,excellent ,,substitute ,,for ,,milk ,,or ,,cream ,,in ,,tea ,,or ,,coffee4 #ahae4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #a new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee4 ,mode4--,beat up the whole of the egg in a basin1 put it into a cup 7or a portion of it1 if the cup be small71 and pour over it the tea or coffee very hot4 ,these should be added very gradually1 and stirred all the time1 to prevent the egg from curdling4 ,in point of nourishment1 both these beverages are much improved by this addition4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee4 ,,to ,,make ,,cocoa4 #ahaf4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #b teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to #a breakfast-cup2 boiling milk and boiling water4 ,illustration3 ,,cocoa-,,bean4 ,mode4--,put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup1 pour over it sufficient cold milk to make it into a smooth paste2 then add equal quantities of boiling milk and boiling water1 and stir all well together4 ,care must be taken not to allow the milk to get burnt1 as it will entirely spoil the flavour of the preparation4 ,the above directions are usually given for making the prepared cocoa4 ,the rock cocoa1 or that bought in a solid piece1 should be scraped1 and made in the same manner1 taking care to rub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added4 ,sufficient--#b teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for #a breakfast-cup1 or #a_/d oz4 of the rock cocoa for the same quantity4 ,,cowslip ,,wine4 #ahag4 ,,ingredients4--,to every gallon of water allow #c lbs4 of lump sugar1 the rind of #b lemons1 the juice of #a1 the rind and juice of #a ,seville orange1 #a gallon of cowslip pips4 ,to every #d-a_/b gallons of wine allow #a bottle of brandy4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together for #a_/b hour1 carefully removing all the scum as it rises4 ,pour this boiling liquor on the orange and lemon-rinds1 and the juice1 which should be strained2 when milk-warm1 add the cowslip pips or flowers1 picked from the stalks and seeds2 and to #i gallons of wine #c tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers' yeast4 ,let it ferment #c or #d days2 then put all together in a cask with the brandy1 and let it remain for #b months1 when bottle it off for use4 ,time4--,to be boiled #a_/b hour2 to ferment #c or #d days2 to remain in the cask #b months4 ,average cost1 exclusive of the cowslips1 which may be picked in the fields1 #bs4 #i;d4 per gallon4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,april or ,may4 ,,elder ,,wine4 #ahah4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #c gallons of water allow #a peck of elderberries2 to every gallon of juice allow #c lbs4 of sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of ground ginger1 #f cloves1 #a lb4 of good ,turkey raisins2 #a_/b pint of brandy to every gallon of wine4 ,to every #i gallons of wine #c or #d tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast4 ,mode4--,pour the water1 quite boiling1 on the elderberries1 which should be picked from the stalks1 and let these stand covered for #bd hours2 then strain the whole through a sieve or bag1 breaking the fruit to express all the juice from it4 ,measure the liquor1 and to every gallon allow the above proportion of sugar4 ,boil the juice and sugar with the ginger1 cloves1 and raisins for #a hour1 skimming the liquor the whole time2 let it stand until milk-warm1 then put it into a clean dry cask1 with #c or #d tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every #i gallons of wine4 ,let it ferment for about a fortnight2 then add the brandy1 bung up the cask1 and let it stand some months before it is bottled1 when it will be found excellent4 ,a bunch of hops suspended to a string from the bung1 some persons say1 will preserve the wine good for several years4 ,elder wine is usually mulled1 and served with sippets of toasted bread and a little grated nutmeg4 ,time4--,to stand covered #bd hours2 to be boiled #a hour4 ,average cost1 when made at home1 #cs4 #f;d4 per gallon4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,september4 ,illustration3 ,,elder-,,berries4 ,,elder-,,berry ,,wine4--,the elder-berry is well adapted for the production of wine2 its juice contains a considerable portion of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation1 and its beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from it4 ,it is1 however1 deficient in sweetness1 and therefore demands an addition of sugar4 ,it is one of the very best of the genuine old ,english wines2 and a cup of it mulled1 just previous to retiring to bed on a winter night1 is a thing to be run for1 as ,cobbett would say3 it is not1 however1 agreeable to every taste4 ,,ginger ,,wine4 #ahai4 ,,ingredients4--,to #i gallons of water allow #bg lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #i lemons1 #ab oz4 of bruised ginger1 #c tablespoonfuls of yeast1 #b lbs4 of raisins stoned and chopped1 #a pint of brandy4 ,mode4--,boil together for #a hour in a copper 7let it previously be well scoured and beautifully clean7 the water1 sugar1 lemon-rinds1 and bruised ginger2 remove every particle of scum as it rises1 and when the liquor is sufficiently boiled1 put it into a large tub or pan1 as it must not remain in the copper4 ,when nearly cold1 add the yeast1 which must be thick and very fresh1 and1 the next day1 put all in a dry cask with the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins4 ,stir the wine every day for a fortnight2 then add the brandy1 stop the cask down by degrees1 and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle4 ,average cost1 #bs4 per gallon4 ,sufficient to make #i gallons of wine4 ,seasonable4--,the best time for making this wine is either in ,march or ,september4 ,note4--,wine made early in ,march will be fit to bottle in ,june4 ,,gooseberry ,,vinegar4 7,an ,excellent ,recipe47 #ahbj4 ,,ingredients4--#b pecks of crystal gooseberries1 #f gallons of water1 #ab lbs4 of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality4 ,mode4--,mash the gooseberries 7which should be quite ripe7 in a tub with a mallet2 put to them the water nearly milk-warm2 let this stand #bd hours2 then strain it through a sieve1 and put the sugar to it2 mix it well1 and tun it4 ,these proportions are for a #i-;gallon cask2 and if it be not quite full1 more water must be added4 ,let the mixture be stirred from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or four days1 to assist the melting of the sugar2 then paste a piece of linen cloth over the bunghole1 and set the cask in a warm place1 but not in the sun2 any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it4 ,the following spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles1 and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made4 ,this will be found a most excellent preparation1 greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar4 ,many years' experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep1 when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients4 ,the cost per gallon is merely nominal1 especially to those who reside in the country and grow their own gooseberries2 the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to be purchased4 ,time4--,to remain in the cask #i months4 ,average cost1 when the gooseberries have to be purchased1 #as4 per gallon2 when they are grown at home1 #f;d4 per gallon4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made the end of ,june or the beginning of ,july1 when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful4 ,,effervescing ,,gooseberry ,,wine4 #ahba4 ,,ingredients4--,to every gallon of water allow #f lbs4 of green gooseberries1 #c lbs4 of lump sugar4 ,mode4--,this wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries1 in order to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in a mature state4 ,its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling than upon the unripe state of the fruit1 for effervescing wine can be made from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe4 ,the fruit should be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth1 and consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen4 ,any bruised or decayed berries1 and those that are very small1 should be rejected4 ,the blossom and stalk ends should be removed1 and the fruit well bruised in a tub or pan1 in such quantities as to insure each berry being broken without crushing the seeds4 ,pour the water 7which should be warm7 on the fruit1 squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removed from the skin and seeds1 and cover the whole closely for #bd hours2 after which1 strain it through a coarse bag1 and press it with as much force as can be conveniently applied1 to extract the whole of the juice and liquor the fruit may contain4 ,to every #dj or #ej lbs4 of fruit one gallon more of hot water may be passed through the marc1 or husks1 in order to obtain any soluble matter that may remain1 and be again pressed4 ,the juice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all of it1 and the sugar added to it4 ,let it be well stirred until the sugar is dissolved1 and place the pan in a warm situation2 keep it closely covered1 and let it ferment for a day or two4 ,it must then be drawn off into clean casks1 placed a little on one side for the scum that arises to be thrown out1 and the casks kept filled with the remaining must1 that should be reserved for that purpose4 ,when the active fermentation has ceased1 the casks should be plugged upright1 again filled1 if necessary1 the bungs be put in loosely1 and1 after a few days1 when the fermentation is a little more languid 7which may be known1 by the hissing noise ceasing71 the bungs should be driven in tight1 and a spile-hole made1 to give vent if necessary4 ,about ,november or ,december1 on a clear fine day1 the wine should he racked from its lees into clean casks1 which may be rinsed with brandy4 ,after a month1 it should be examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling2 if not1 it must be fined with isinglass1 which may be dissolved in some of the wine3 #a oz4 will be sufficient for #i gallons4 ,in ,march or ,april1 or when the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom1 the wine must be bottled1 in order to insure its being effervescing4 ,seasonable4--,make this the end of ,may or beginning of ,june1 before the berries ripen4 ,,lemon ,,syrup4 #ahbb4 ,,ingredients4--#b lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #b pints of water1 #a oz4 of citric acid1 #ab drachm of essence of lemon4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together for #a_/d hour1 and put it into a basin1 where let it remain till cold4 ,beat the citric acid to a powder1 mix the essence of lemon with it1 then add these two ingredients to the syrup2 mix well1 and bottle for use4 ,two tablespoonfuls of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water1 and will be found a very refreshing summer drink4 ,sufficient--#b tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water4 ,,lemon ,,wine4 #ahbc4 ,,ingredients4--,to #d-a_/b gallons of water allow the pulp of #ej lemons1 the rind of #be1 #af lbs4 of loaf sugar1--#a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 #a bottle of brandy4 ,mode4--,peel and slice the lemons1 but use only the rind of #be of them1 and put them into the cold water4 ,let it stand #h or #i days1 squeezing the lemons well every day2 then strain the water off and put it into a cask with the sugar4 ,let it work some time1 and when it has ceased working1 put in the isinglass4 ,stop the cask down2 in about six months put in the brandy and bottle the wine off4 ,seasonable4--,the best time to make this is in ,january or ,february1 when lemons are best and cheapest4 ,,malt ,,wine4 #ahbd4 ,,ingredients4--#e gallons of water1 #bh lbs4 of sugar1 #f quarts of sweet-wort1 #f quarts of tun1 #c lbs4 of raisins1 #a_/b lb4 of candy1 #a pint of brandy4 ,mode4--,boil the sugar and water together for #aj minutes2 skim it well1 and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub4 ,allow it to cool2 then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun4 ,let it stand for #c days1 then put it into a barrel2 here it will work or ferment for another three days or more2 then bung up the cask1 and keep it undisturbed for #b or #c months4 ,after this1 add the raisins 7whole71 the candy1 and brandy1 and1 in #f months' time1 bottle the wine off4 ,those who do not brew1 may procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer4 ,sweet-wort is the liquor that leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops2 tun is the new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has been completed4 ,time4--,to be boiled #aj minutes2 to stand #c days after mixing2 to ferment #c days2 to remain in the cask #b mouths before the raisins are added2 bottle #f months after4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,march or ,october4 ,,home-,,made ,,noyeau4 #ahbe4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of bitter almonds1 #a oz4 of sweet ditto1 #a lb4 of loaf sugar1 the rinds of #c lemons1 #a quart of ,irish whiskey or gin1 #a tablespoonful of clarified honey1 #d pint of new milk4 ,mode4--,blanch and pound the almonds1 and mix with them the sugar1 which should also be pounded4 ,boil the milk2 let it stand till quite cold2 then mix all the ingredients together1 and let them remain for #aj days1 shaking them every day4 ,filter the mixture through blotting-paper1 bottle off for use in small bottles1 and seal the corks down4 ,this will be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to make about #bd pints of ,noyeau4 ,seasonable4--,may be made at any time4 ,,orange ,,brandy4 7,excellent47 #ahbf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #a gallon of brandy allow #c_/d pint of ,seville orange-juice1 #a-a_/d lb4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,to bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel1 rub a few lumps of the sugar on #b or #c unpared oranges1 and put these lumps to the rest4 ,mix the brandy with the orange-juice1 strained1 the rinds of #f of the oranges pared very thin1 and the sugar4 ,let all stand in a closely-covered jar for about #c days1 stirring it #c or #d times a day4 ,when clear1 it should be bottled and closely corked for a year2 it will then be ready for use1 but will keep any length of time4 ,this is a most excellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities2 or1 as the strength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the other ingredients1 it may be diluted with water4 ,time4--,to be stirred every day for #c days4 ,average cost1 #gs4 ,sufficient to make #b quarts4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,march4 ,a ,,very ,,simple ,,and ,,easy ,,method ,,of ,,making ,a ,,very ,,superior ,,orange ,,wine4 #ahbg4 ,,ingredients4--#ij ,seville oranges1 #cb lbs4 of lump sugar1 water4 ,mode4--,break up the sugar into small pieces1 and put it into a dry1 sweet #i-;gallon cask1 placed in a cellar or other storehouse1 where it is intended to be kept4 ,have ready close to the cask two large pans or wooden keelers1 into one of which put the peel of the oranges pared quite thin1 and into the other the pulp after the juice has been squeezed from it4 ,strain the juice through a piece of double muslin1 and put it into the cask with the sugar4 ,then pour about #a-a_/b gallon of cold spring water on both the peels and pulp2 let it stand for #bd hours1 and then strain it into the cask2 add more water to the peels and pulp when this is done1 and repeat the same process every day for a week3 it should take about a week to fill up the cask4 ,be careful to apportion the quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days1 and to stir the contents of the cask each day4 ,on the ''third' day after the cask is full1--that is1 the 'tenth' day after the commencement of making1--the cask may be securely bunged down4 ,this is a very simple and easy method1 and the wine made according to it will be pronounced to be most excellent4 ,there is no troublesome boiling1 and all fermentation takes place in the cask4 ,when the above directions are attended to1 the wine cannot fail to be good4 ,it should be bottled in #h or #i months1 and will be fit for use in a twelve month after the time of making4 ,ginger wine may be made in precisely the same manner1 only1 with the #i-;gallon cask for ginger wine1 #b lbs4 of the best whole ginger1 'bruised'1 must be put with the sugar4 ,it will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in a muslin bag4 ,time4--,altogether1 #aj days to make it4 ,average cost1 #bs4 #f;d4 per gallon4 ,sufficient for #i gallons4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,march1 and bottle it the following ,january4 ,,raspberry ,,vinegar4 #ahbh4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #c pints of the best vinegar allow #d-a_/b pints of freshly-gathered raspberries2 to each pint of liquor allow #a lb4 of pounded loaf sugar1 #a wineglassful of brandy4 ,mode4--,let the raspberries be freshly gathered2 pick them from the stalks1 and put #a-a_/b pint of them into a stone jar2 pour #c pints of the best vinegar over them1 and let them remain for #bd hours2 then strain the liquor over another #a-a_/b pint of fresh raspberries4 ,let them remain another #bd hours1 and the following day repeat the process for the third time2 then drain off the liquor without pressing1 and pass it through a jelly-bag 7previously wetted with plain vinegar71 into a stone jar4 ,add to every pint of the liquor #a lb4 of pounded loaf sugar2 stir them together1 and1 when the sugar is dissolved1 cover the jar2 set it upon the fire in a saucepan of boiling water1 and let it boil for an hour1 removing the scum as fast as it rises2 add to each pint a glass of brandy1 bottle it1 and seal the corks4 ,this is an excellent drink in cases of fevers and colds3 it should be diluted with cold water1 according to the taste or requirement of the patient4 ,time4--,to be boiled #a hour4 ,average cost1 #as4 per pint4 ,sufficient to make #b quarts4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july or ,august1 when raspberries are most plentiful4 ,,rhubarb ,,wine4 #ahbi4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #e lbs4 of rhubarb pulp allow #a gallon of cold spring water2 to every gallon of liquor allow #c lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #a_/b oz4 of isinglass1 the rind of #a lemon4 ,mode4--,gather the rhubarb about the middle of ,may2 wipe it with a wet cloth1 and1 with a mallet1 bruise it in a large wooden tub or other convenient means4 ,when reduced to a pulp1 weigh it1 and to every #e lbs4 add #a gallon of cold spring water2 let these remain for #c days1 stirring #c or #d times a day2 and1 on the fourth day1 press the pulp through a hair sieve2 put the liquor into a tub1 and to every gallon put #c lbs4 of loaf sugar2 stir in the sugar until it is quite dissolved1 and add the lemon-rind2 let the liquor remain1 and1 in #d1 #e1 or #f days1 the fermentation will begin to subside1 and a crust or head will be formed1 which should be skimmed off1 or the liquor drawn from it1 when the crust begins to crack or separate4 ,put the wine into a cask1 and if1 after that1 it ferments1 rack it off into another cask1 and in a fortnight stop it down4 ,if the wine should have lost any of its original sweetness1 add a little more loaf sugar1 taking care that the cask is full4 ,bottle it off in ,february or ,march1 and in the summer it should be fit to drink4 ,it will improve greatly by keeping2 and1 should a very brilliant colour be desired1 add a little currant-juice4 ,seasonable4--,make this about the middle of ,may4 ,,welsh ,,nectar4 #ahcj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of raisins1 #c lemons1 #b lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #b gallons of boiling water4 ,mode4--,cut the peel of the lemons very thin1 pour upon it the boiling water1 and1 when cool1 add the strained juice of the lemons1 the sugar1 and the raisins1 stoned and chopped very fine4 ,let it stand #d or #e days1 stirring it every day2 then strain it through a jelly-bag1 and bottle it for present use4 ,time4--#d or #e days4 ,average cost1 #as4 #i;d4 ,sufficient to make #b gallons4 ,,claret-,,cup4 ,illustration3 ,,claret ,,cup4 #ahca4 ,,ingredients4--#a bottle of claret1 #a bottle of soda-water1 about #a_/b lb4 of pounded ice1 #d tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 #a_/d teaspoonful of grated nutmeg1 #a liqueur-glass of ,maraschino1 a sprig of green borage4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a silver cup1 regulating the proportion of ice by the state of the weather3 if very warm1 a larger quantity would be necessary4 ,hand the cup round with a clean napkin passed through one of the handles1 that the edge of the cup may be wiped after each guest has partaken of the contents thereof4 ,seasonable in summer4 ,,clarets4--,all those wines called in ,england clarets are the produce of the country round ,bordeaux1 or the ,bordelais2 but it is remarkable that there is no pure wine in ,france known by the name of claret1 which is a corruption of clairet1 a term that is applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine4 ,round ,bordeaux are produced a number of wines of the first quality1 which pass under the name simply of vins de ,bordeaux1 or have the designation of the particular district where they are made2 as ,lafitte1 ,latour1 c4 ,the clarets brought to the ,english market are frequently prepared for it by the wine-growers by mixing together several ,bordeaux wines1 or by adding to them a portion of some other wines2 but in ,france the pure wines are carefully preserved distinct4 ,the genuine wines of ,bordeaux are of great variety1 that part being one of the most distinguished in ,france2 and the principal vineyards are those of ,medoc1 ,palus1 ,graves1 and ,blanche1 the product of each having characters considerably different4 ,,champagne-,,cup4 #ahcb4 ,,ingredients4--#a quart bottle of champagne1 #b bottles of soda-water1 #a liqueur-glass of brandy or ,curaoa1 #b tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 #a lb4 of pounded ice1 a sprig of green borage4 ,mode4--,put all the ingredients into a silver cup2 stir them together1 and serve the same as claret-cup ,no4 #ahca4 ,should the above proportion of sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes1 increase the quantity4 ,when borage is not easily obtainable1 substitute for it a few slices of cucumber-rind4 ,seasonable4--,suitable for pic-nics1 balls1 weddings1 and other festive occasions4 ,,champagne4--,this1 the most celebrated of ,french wines1 is the produce chiefly of the province of that name1 and is generally understood in ,england to be a brisk1 effervescing1 or sparkling white wine1 of a very fine flavour2 but this is only one of the varieties of this class4 ,there is both red and white champagne1 and each of these may be either still or brisk4 ,there are the sparkling wines 7mousseux71 and the still wines 7non-mousseux74 ,the brisk are in general the most highly esteemed1 or1 at least1 are the most popular in this country1 on account of their delicate flavour and the agreeable pungency which they derive from the carbonic acid they contain1 and to which they owe their briskness4 ,,ginger ,,beer4 #ahcc4 ,,ingredients4--#b-a_/b lbs4 of loaf sugar1 #a-a_/b oz4 of bruised ginger1 #a oz4 of cream of tartar1 the rind and juice of #b lemons1 #c gallons of boiling water1 #b large tablespoonfuls of thick and fresh brewer's yeast4 ,mode4--,peel the lemons1 squeeze the juice1 strain it1 and put the peel and juice into a large earthen pan1 with the bruised ginger1 cream of tartar1 and loaf sugar4 ,pour over these ingredients #c gallons of boiling water2 let it stand until just warm1 when add the yeast1 which should be thick and perfectly fresh4 ,stir the contents of the pan well1 and let them remain near the fire all night1 covering the pan over with a cloth4 ,the next day skim off the yeast1 and pour the liquor carefully into another vessel1 leaving the sediment2 then bottle immediately1 and tie the corks down1 and in #c days the ginger beer will be fit for use4 ,for some tastes1 the above proportion of sugar may be found rather too large1 when it may be diminished2 but the beer will not keep so long good4 ,average cost for this quantity1 #bs42 or #a_/b;d4 per bottle4 ,sufficient to fill #d dozen ginger-beer bottles4 ,seasonable4--,this should be made during the summer months4 ,,lemonade4 #ahcd4 ,,ingredients--,the rind of #b lemons1 the juice of #c large or #d small ones1 #a lb4 of loaf sugar1 #a quart of boiling water4 ,mode4--,rub some of the sugar1 in lumps1 on #b of the lemons until they have imbibed all the oil from them1 and put it with the remainder of the sugar into a jug2 add the lemon-juice 7but no pips71 and pour over the whole a quart of boiling water4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 strain the lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin1 and1 when cool1 it will be ready for use4 ,the lemonade will be much improved by having the white of an egg beaten up in it2 a little sherry mixed with it1 also1 makes this beverage much nicer4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per quart4 ,,lemonade--,there is a current opinion among women says ,brillat ,savarin which every year causes the death of many young women1--that acids1 especially vinegar1 are preventives of obesity4 ,beyond all doubt1 acids have the effect of destroying obesity2 but they also destroy health and freshness4 ,lemonade is1 of all acids1 the most harmless2 but few stomachs can resist it long4 ,i knew1 in #aggf1 at ,dijon1 a young lady of great beauty1 to whom ,i was attached by bonds of friendship1 great1 almost as those of love4 ,one day1 when she had for some time gradually grown pale and thin 7previously she had a slight embonpoint71 she told me in confidence1 that as her young friends had ridiculed her for being fat1 she had1 to counteract the tendency1 been in the habit every day of drinking a large glass of vinaigre4 ,she died at eighteen years of age1 from the effects of these potions4 ,,to ,,make ,,negus4 #ahce4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of port wine allow #a quart of boiling water1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a lemon1 grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,as this beverage is more usually drunk at children's parties than at any other1 the wine need not be very old or expensive for the purpose1 a new fruity wine answering very well for it4 ,put the wine into a jug1 rub some lumps of sugar 7equal to #a_/d lb47 on the lemon-rind until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed1 then squeeze the juice1 and strain it4 ,add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port wine1 with the grated nutmeg2 pour over it the boiling water1 cover the jug1 and1 when the beverage has cooled a little1 it will be fit for use4 ,negus may also be made of sherry1 or any other sweet white wine1 but is more usually made of port than of any other beverage4 ,sufficient--,allow #a pint of wine1 with the other ingredients in proportion1 for a party of #i or #aj children4 ,a ,,pleasant ,,drink ,,for ,,warm ,,weather4 #ahcf4 ,,ingredients4--,to every #a-a_/b pint of good ale allow #a bottle of ginger beer4 ,mode4--,for this beverage the ginger beer must be in an effervescing state1 and the beer not in the least turned or sour4 ,mix them together1 and drink immediately4 ,the draught is refreshing and wholesome1 as the ginger corrects the action of the beer4 ,it does not deteriorate by standing a little1 but1 of course1 is better when taken fresh4 ,,for ,a ,,summer ,,draught4 #ahcg4 ,,ingredients4--,the juice of #a lemon1 a tumbler-ful of cold water1 pounded sugar to taste1 #d small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,mode4--,squeeze the juice from the lemon2 strain1 and add it to the water1 with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely4 ,when well mixed1 put in the soda1 stir well1 and drink while the mixture is in an effervescing state4 ,,to ,,mull ,,wine4 #ahch4 ,,ingredients4--,to every pint of wine allow #a large cupful of water1 sugar and spice to taste4 ,mode4--,in making preparations like the above1 it is very difficult to give the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice1 as what quantity might suit one person would be to another quite distasteful4 ,boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted1 then add the wine and sugar1 and bring the whole to the boiling-point1 when serve with strips of crisp dry toast1 or with biscuits4 ,the spices usually used for mulled wine are cloves1 grated nutmeg1 and cinnamon or mace4 ,any kind of wine may be mulled1 but port and claret are those usually selected for the purpose2 and the latter requires a very large proportion of sugar4 ,the vessel that the wine is boiled in must be delicately clean1 and should be kept exclusively for the purpose4 ,small tin warmers may be purchased for a trifle1 which are more suitable than saucepans1 as1 if the latter are not scrupulously clean1 they will spoil the wine1 by imparting to it a very disagreeable flavour4 ,these warmers should be used for no other purposes4 ,,to ,,make ,,hot ,,punch4 #ahci4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of rum1 #a_/b pint of brandy1 #a_/d lb4 of sugar1 #a large lemon1 #a_/b teaspoonful of nutmeg1 #a pint of boiling water4 ,illustration3 ,,punch-,,bowl ,,and ,,ladle4 ,mode4--,rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the yellow part of the skin1 then put the sugar into a punchbowl2 add the lemon-juice 7free from pips71 and mix these two ingredients well together4 ,pour over them the boiling water1 stir well together1 add the rum1 brandy1 and nutmeg2 mix thoroughly1 and the punch will be ready to serve4 ,it is very important in making good punch that all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated2 and1 to insure success1 the processes of mixing must be diligently attended to4 ,sufficient4--,allow a quart for #d persons2 but this information must be taken cum grano salis2 for the capacities of persons for this kind of beverage are generally supposed to vary considerably4 ,,punch is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine1 hot water1 the acid juice of fruits1 and sugar4 ,it is considered to be very intoxicating2 but this is probably because the spirit1 being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the sugar1 its strength does not appear to the taste so great as it really is4 ,punch1 which was almost universally drunk among the middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago1 has almost disappeared from our domestic tables1 being superseded by wine4 ,there are many different varieties of punch4 ,it is sometimes kept cold in bottles1 and makes a most agreeable summer drink4 ,in ,scotland1 instead of the ,madeira or sherry generally used in its manufacture1 whiskey is substituted1 and then its insidious properties are more than usually felt4 ,where fresh lemons cannot be had for punch or similar beverages1 crystallized citric acid and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the same thing4 ,in the composition of ,regent's punch1 champagne1 brandy1 and veritable ,martinique are required2 ,norfolk punch requires ,seville oranges2 ,milk punch may be extemporized by adding a little hot milk to lemonade1 and then straining it through a jelly-bag4 ,then there are ,wine punch1 ,tea punch1 and ,french punch1 made with lemons1 spirits1 and wine1 in fantastic proportions4 ,but of all the compounds of these materials1 perhaps1 for a summer drink1 the ,north-,american mint julep is the most inviting4 ,captain ,marryat gives the following recipe for its preparation3--,put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint2 upon them put a spoonful of white sugar1 and equal proportions of peach and common brandy1 so as to fill up one third1 or1 perhaps1 a little less2 then take rasped or pounded ice1 and fill up the tumbler4 ,epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple2 and the tumbler itself is very often encrusted outside with stalactites of ice4 ,as the ice melts1 you drink4 ,the ,virginians1 say ,captain ,marryat1 claim the merit of having invented this superb compound2 but1 from a passage in the ,comus of ,milton1 he claims it for his own country4 ,,whiskey ,,cordial4 #ahdj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of ripe white currants1 the rind of #b lemons1 #a_/d oz4 of grated ginger1 #a quart of whiskey1 #a lb4 of lump sugar4 ,mode4--,strip the currants from the stalks2 put them into a large jug2 add the lemon-rind1 ginger1 and whiskey2 cover the jug closely1 and let it remain covered for #bd hours4 ,strain through a hair sieve1 add the lump sugar1 and let it stand #ab hours longer2 then bottle1 and cork well4 ,time4--,to stand #bd hours before being strained2 #ab hours after the sugar is added4 ,seasonable4--,make this in ,july4 ,illustration ,,invalid ,,cookery4 ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,a ,,few ,,rules ,,to ,,be ,,observed ,,in ,,cooking ,,for ,,invalids4 #ahda4 ,,let all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids' cookery be delicately and 'scrupulously clean2' if this is not the case1 a disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation1 which flavour may disgust1 and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshment when brought to him or her4 #ahdb4 ,for invalids1 never make a large quantity of one thing1 as they seldom require much at a time2 and it is desirable that variety be provided for them4 #ahdc4 ,always have something in readiness2 a little beef tea1 nicely made and nicely skimmed1 a few spoonfuls of jelly1 c4 c41 that it may be administered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it4 ,if obliged to wait a long time1 the patient loses the desire to eat1 and often turns against the food when brought to him or her4 #ahdd4 ,in sending dishes or preparations up to invalids1 let everything look as tempting as possible4 ,have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly over the tray2 let the spoons1 tumblers1 cups and saucers1 c41 be very clean and bright4 ,gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than when served in a basin or cup and saucer4 #ahde4 ,as milk is an important article of food for the sick1 in warm weather let it be kept on ice1 to prevent its turning sour4 ,many other delicacies may also be preserved good in the same manner for some little time4 #ahdf4 ,if the patient be allowed to eat vegetables1 never send them up undercooked1 or half raw2 and let a small quantity only be temptingly arranged on a dish4 ,this rule will apply to every preparation1 as an invalid is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate pieces are served to him4 #ahdg4 ,never leave food about a sick room2 if the patient cannot eat it when brought to him1 take it away1 and bring it to him in an hour or two's time4 ,miss ,nightingale says1 ,to leave the patient's untasted food by his side1 from meal to meal1 in hopes that he will eat it in the interval1 is simply to prevent him from taking any food at all4 ,she says1 ,i have known patients literally incapacitated from taking one article of food after another by this piece of ignorance4 ,let the food come at the right time1 and be taken away1 eaten or uneaten1 at the right time1 but never let a patient have 'something always standing' by him1 if you don't wish to disgust him of everything4 #ahdh4 ,never serve beef tea or broth with the smallest particle of fat or grease on the surface4 ,it is better1 after making either of these1 to allow them to get perfectly cold1 when all the fat may be easily removed2 then warm up as much as may be required4 ,two or three pieces of clean whity-brown paper laid on the broth will absorb any greasy particles that may be floating at the top1 as the grease will cling to the paper4 #ahdi4 ,roast mutton1 chickens1 rabbits1 calves' feet or head1 game1 fish 7simply dressed71 and simple puddings1 are all light food1 and easily digested4 ,of course1 these things are only partaken of1 supposing the patient is recovering4 #ahej4 ,a mutton chop1 nicely cut1 trimmed1 and broiled to a turn1 is a dish to be recommended for invalids2 but it must not be served with all the fat at the end1 nor must it be too thickly cut4 ,let it be cooked over a fire free from smoke1 and sent up with the gravy in it1 between two very hot plates4 ,nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than smoked food4 #ahea4 ,in making toast-and-water1 never blacken the bread1 but toast it only a nice brown4 ,never leave toast-and-water to make until the moment it is required1 as it cannot then be properly prepared1--at least1 the patient will be obliged to drink it warm1 which is anything but agreeable4 #aheb4 ,in boiling eggs for invalids1 let the white be just set2 if boiled hard1 they will be likely to disagree with the patient4 #ahec4 ,in ,miss ,nightingale's admirable ,notes on ,nursing1 a book that no mother or nurse should be without1 she says1--,you cannot be too careful as to quality in sick diet4 ,a nurse should never put before a patient milk that is sour1 meat or soup that is turned1 an egg that is bad1 or vegetables underdone4 ,yet often1 she says1 she has seen these things brought in to the sick1 in a state perfectly perceptible to every nose or eye except the nurse's4 ,it is here that the clever nurse appears1--she will not bring in the peccant article2 but1 not to disappoint the patient1 she will whip up something else in a few minutes4 ,remember1 that sick cookery should half do the work of your poor patient's weak digestion4 #ahed4 ,she goes on to caution nurses1 by saying1--,take care not to spill into your patient's saucer2 in other words1 take care that the outside bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean4 ,if1 every time he lifts his cup to his lips1 he has to carry the saucer with it1 or else to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet1 or bedgown1 or pillow1 or1 if he is sitting up1 his dress1 you have no idea what a difference this minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort1 and even to his willingness for food4 ,,recipes4 ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,,to ,,make ,,arrowroot4 #ahee4 ,,ingredients4--,two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot1 #c tablespoonfuls of cold water1 #a_/b pint of boiling water4 ,mode4--,mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water1 then pour on it the boiling water1 stirring all the time4 ,the water must be boiling at the time it is poured on the mixture1 or it will not thicken2 if mixed with hot water only1 it must be put into a clean saucepan1 and boiled until it thickens2 but this is more trouble1 and quite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first4 ,put the arrowroot into a tumbler1 sweeten it with lump sugar1 and flavour it with grated nutmeg or cinnamon1 or a piece of lemon-peel1 or1 when allowed1 #c tablespoonfuls of port or sherry4 ,as arrowroot is in itself flavourless and insipid1 it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it palatable4 ,arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer1 but is not so easily digested4 ,it should be mixed in the same manner1 with #c tablespoonfuls of cold water1 the boiling milk then poured on it1 and well stirred4 ,when made in this manner1 no wine should be added1 but merely sugar1 and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel4 ,time4--,if obliged to be boiled1 #b minutes4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient to make #a_/b pint of arrowroot4 ,,miss ,,nightingale says1 in her ,notes on ,nursing1 that arrowroot is a grand dependence of the nurse4 ,as a vehicle for wine1 and as a restorative quickly prepared1 it is all very well1 but it is nothing but starch and water2 flour is both more nutritive and less liable to ferment1 and is preferable wherever it can be used4 ,,barley ,,gruel4 #ahef4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of ,scotch or pearl barley1 #a_/b pint of port wine1 the rind of #a lemon1 #a quart and #a_/b pint of water1 sugar to taste4 ,mode4--,after well washing the barley1 boil it in #a_/b pint of water for #a_/d hour2 then pour this water away2 put to the barley the quart of fresh boiling water1 and let it boil until the liquid is reduced to half2 then strain it off4 ,add the wine1 sugar1 and lemon-peel2 simmer for #e minutes1 and put it away in a clean jug4 ,it can be warmed from time to time1 as required4 ,time4--,to be boiled until reduced to half4 ,average cost1 #as4 #f;d4 ,sufficient with the wine to make #a-a_/b pint of gruel4 ,,to ,,make ,,barley-,,water4 #aheg4 ,,ingredients4--#b oz4 of pearl barley1 #b quarts of boiling water1 #a pint of cold water4 ,mode4--,wash the barley in cold water2 put it into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water1 and when it has boiled for about #a_/d hour1 strain off the water1 and add the #b quarts of fresh boiling water4 ,boil it until the liquid is reduced one half2 strain it1 and it will be ready for use4 ,it may be flavoured with lemon-peel1 after being sweetened1 or a small piece may be simmered with the barley4 ,when the invalid may take it1 a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drink in illness a very nice flavour4 ,time4--,to boil until the liquid is reduced one half4 ,sufficient to make #a quart of barley-water4 ,,to ,,make ,,beef ,,tea4 #aheh4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of lean gravy-beef1 #a quart of water1 #a saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,have the meat cut without fat and bone1 and choose a nice fleshy piece4 ,cut it into small pieces about the size of dice1 and put it into a clean saucepan4 ,add the water cold to it2 put it on the fire1 and bring it to the boiling-point2 then skim well4 ,put in the salt when the water boils1 and simmer the beef tea gently from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 removing any more scum should it appear on the surface4 ,strain the tea through a hair sieve1 and set it by in a cool place4 ,when wanted for use1 remove every particle of fat from the top2 warm up as much as may be required1 adding1 if necessary1 a little more salt4 ,this preparation is simple beef tea1 and is to be administered to those invalids to whom flavourings and seasonings are not allowed4 ,when the patient is very low1 use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water4 ,should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatable manner1 it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the next recipe1 which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea4 ,beef tea is always better when made the day before it is wanted1 and then warmed up4 ,it is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin1 and to place this basin in a saucepan of boiling water4 ,when the tea is warm1 it is ready to serve4 ,time4--#a_/d to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a lb4 of meat for a pint of good beef tea4 ,,miss ,,nightingale says1 one of the most common errors among nurses1 with respect to sick diet1 is the belief that beef tea is the most nutritive of all article4 ,she says1 ,just try and boil down a lb4 of beef into beef tea2 evaporate your beef tea1 and see what is left of your beef3 you will find that there is barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to #a_/d pint of water in beef tea4 ,nevertheless1 there is a certain reparative quality in it1--we do not know what1--as there is in tea2 but it maybe safely given in almost any inflammatory disease1 and is as little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent1 where much nourishment is required4 ,,savoury ,,beef ,,tea4 7,soyer's ,recipe47 #ahei4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of solid beef1 #a oz4 of butter1 #a clove1 #b button onions or #a_/b a large one1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 #a quart of water4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into very small dice2 put it into a stewpan with the butter1 clove1 onion1 and salt2 stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes1 until it produces a thin gravy2 then add the water1 and let it simmer gently from #a_/b to #c_/d hour1 skimming off every particle of fat4 ,when done1 strain it through a sieve1 and put it by in a cool place until required4 ,the same1 if wanted quite plain1 is done by merely omitting the vegetables1 salt1 and clove2 the butter cannot be objectionable1 as it is taken out in skimming4 ,time4--#a_/b to #c_/d hour4 ,average cost1 #h;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a lb4 of beef to make #a pint of good beef tea4 ,note4--,the meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer1 and pounded1 with spices1 c41 for potting4 ,it makes a very nice breakfast dish4 ,,dr4 ,,christison says that every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meat juice1 or beef tea repeatedly1 when they refuse all other kinds of food4 ,this is particularly remarkable in case of gastric fever1 in which1 he says1 little or nothing else besides beef tea1 or diluted meat juice1 has been taken for weeks1 or even months2 and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely #a_/d oz4 of anything but water4 ,the result is so striking1 that he asks1 ,what is its mode of action8 ,not simple nutriment2 #a_/d oz4 of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances4 ,possibly1 he says1 it belongs to a new denomination of remedies4 ,,baked ,,beef ,,tea4 #ahfj4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of fleshy beef1 #a-a_/b pint of water1 #a_/d saltspoonful of salt4 ,mode4--,cut the beef into small square pieces1 after trimming off all the fat1 and put it into a baking-jar1 with the above proportion of water and salt2 cover the jar well1 place it in a warm1 but not hot oven1 and bake for #c or #d hours4 ,when the oven is very fierce in the daytime1 it is a good plan to put the jar in at night1 and let it remain till the next morning1 when the tea will be done4 ,it should be strained1 and put by in a cool place until wanted4 ,it may also be flavoured with an onion1 a clove1 and a few sweet herbs1 c41 when the stomach is sufficiently strong to take those4 ,time4--#c or #d hours1 or to be left in the oven all night4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 per pint4 ,sufficient4--,allow #a lb4 of meat for #a pint of good beef tea4 ,,baked ,,or ,,stewed ,,calf',s ,,foot4 #ahfa4 ,,ingredients4--#a calf's foot1 #a pint of milk1 #a pint of water1 #a blade of mace1 the rind of #a_/d lemon1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,well clean the foot1 and either stew or bake it in the milk-and-water with the other ingredients from #c to #d hours4 ,to enhance the flavour1 an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added1 if approved2 #a_/b a teacupful of cream1 stirred in just before serving1 is also a great improvement to this dish4 ,time4--#c to #d hours4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #a person4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,calf',s-,,foot ,,broth4 #ahfb4 ,,ingredients4--#a calf's foot1 #c pints of water1 #a small lump of sugar1 nutmeg to taste1 the yolk of #a egg1 a piece of butter the size of a nut4 ,mode4--,stew the foot in the water1 with the lemon-peel1 very gently1 until the liquid is half wasted1 removing any scum1 should it rise to the surface4 ,set it by in a basin until quite cold1 then take off every particle of fat4 ,warm up about #a_/b pint of the broth1 adding the butter1 sugar1 and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg2 take it off the fire for a minute or two1 then add the beaten yolk of the egg2 keep stirring over the fire until the mixture thickens1 but do not allow it to boil again after the egg is added1 or it will curdle1 and the broth will be spoiled4 ,time4--,to be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half4 ,average cost1 in full season1 #i;d4 each4 ,sufficient to make #a-a_/d pint of broth4 ,seasonable from ,march to ,october4 ,,chicken ,,broth4 #ahfc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b fowl1 or the inferior joints of a whole one2 #a quart of water1 #a blade of mace1 #a_/b onion1 a small bunch of sweet herbs1 salt to taste1 #aj peppercorns4 ,mode4--,an old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into very good broth1 or1 if a young one be used1 the inferior joints may be put in the broth1 and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some other manner4 ,put the fowl into a saucepan1 with all the ingredients1 and simmer gently for #a-a_/b hour1 carefully skimming the broth well4 ,when done1 strain1 and put by in a cool place until wanted2 then take all the fat off the top1 warm up as much as may be required1 and serve4 ,this broth is1 of course1 only for those invalids whose stomachs are strong enough to digest it1 with a flavouring of herbs1 c4 ,it may be made in the same manner as beef tea1 with water and salt only2 but the preparation will be but tasteless and insipid4 ,when the invalid cannot digest this chicken broth with the flavouring1 we would recommend plain beef tea in preference to plain chicken tea1 which it would be without the addition of herbs1 onions1 c4 ,time4--#a-a_/b hour4 ,sufficient to make rather more than #a pint of broth4 ,,nutritious ,,coffee4 #ahfd4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b oz4 of ground coffee1 #a pint of milk4 ,mode4--,let the coffee be freshly ground2 put it into a saucepan1 with the milk1 which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is put in1 and boil both together for #c minutes2 clear it by pouring some of it into a cup1 and then back again1 and leave it on the hob for a few minutes to settle thoroughly4 ,this coffee may be made still more nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten1 and put into the coffee-cup4 ,time4--#e minutes to boil1 #e minutes to settle4 ,sufficient to make #a large breakfast-cupful of coffee4 ,our great nurse ,miss ,nightingale remarks1 that a great deal too much against tea is said by wise people1 and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people4 ,when you see the natural and almost universal craving in ,english sick for their 'tea1' you cannot but feel that ,nature knows what she is about4 ,but a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal2 and a great deal of tea1 and especially of coffee1 impairs the little power of digestion they have4 ,yet a nurse1 because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore her patient1 thinks that three or four cups will do twice as much4 ,this is not the case at all2 it is1 however1 certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the ,english patient for his cup of tea2 he can take it when he can take nothing else1 and he often can't take anything else1 if he has it not4 ,coffee is a better restorative than tea1 but a greater impairer of the digestion4 ,in making coffee1 it is absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry1 and grind it at home2 otherwise1 you may reckon upon its containing a certain amount of chicory1 at least4 ,this is not a question of the taste1 or of the wholesomeness of chicory2 it is1 that chicory has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee1 and1 therefore1 you may as well not give it4 ,,the ,,invalid',s ,,cutlet4 #ahfe4 ,,ingredients4--#a nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton1 #b teacupfuls of water1 #a very small stick of celery1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton2 take off all the fat2 put it into a stewpan1 with the other ingredients2 stew very gently indeed for nearly #b hours1 and skim off every particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time4 ,the celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat1 and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient1 or the dish will not be good4 ,if the water is allowed to boil fast1 the cutlet will be hard4 ,time4--#b hours' very gentle stewing4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient for #a person4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,eel ,,broth4 #ahff4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 of eels1 a small bunch of sweet herbs1 including parsley2 #a_/b onion1 #aj peppercorns1 #c pints of water1 #b cloves1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,mode4--,after having cleaned and skinned the eel1 cut it into small pieces1 and put it into a stewpan1 with the other ingredients2 simmer gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half1 carefully removing the scum as it rises4 ,strain it through a hair sieve2 put it by in a cool place1 and1 when wanted1 take off all the fat from the top1 warm up as much as is required1 and serve with sippets of toasted bread4 ,this is a very nutritious broth1 and easy of digestion4 ,time4--,to be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half4 ,average cost1 #f;d4 ,sufficient to make #a-a_/b pint of broth4 ,seasonable from ,june to ,march4 ,,egg ,,wine4 #ahfg4 ,,ingredients4--#a egg1 #a tablespoonful and #a_/b glass of cold water1 #a glass of sherry1 sugar and grated nutmeg to taste4 ,mode4--,beat the egg1 mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water2 make the wine-and-water hot1 but not boiling2 pour it on the egg1 stirring all the time4 ,add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture1 and a little grated nutmeg2 put all into a very clean saucepan1 set it on a gentle fire1 and stir the contents one way until they thicken1 but do not allow them to boil4 ,serve in a glass with sippets of toasted bread or plain crisp biscuits4 ,when the egg is not warmed1 the mixture will be found easier of digestion1 but it is not so pleasant a drink4 ,sufficient for #a person4 ,,to ,,make ,,gruel4 #ahfh4 ,,ingredients4--#a tablespoonful of ,robinson's patent groats1 #b tablespoonfuls of cold water1 #a pint of boiling water4 ,mode4--,mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a basin2 pour over them the boiling water1 stirring it all the time4 ,put it into a very clean saucepan2 boil the gruel for #aj minutes1 keeping it well stirred2 sweeten to taste1 and serve4 ,it may be flavoured with a small piece of lemon-peel1 by boiling it in the gruel1 or a little grated nutmeg may be put in2 but in these matters the taste of the patient should be consulted4 ,pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve4 ,when wine is allowed to the invalid1 #b tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make this preparation very nice4 ,in cases of colds1 the same quantity of spirits is sometimes added instead of wine4 ,time4--#aj minutes4 ,sufficient to make a pint of gruel4 ,,invalid',s ,,jelly4 #ahfi4 ,,ingredients4--#ab shanks of mutton1 #c quarts of water1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 pepper and salt to taste1 #c blades of mace1 #a onion1 #a lb4 of lean beef1 a crust of bread toasted brown4 ,mode4--,soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours1 and scrub them well2 put them1 with the beef and other ingredients1 into a saucepan with the water1 and let them simmer very gently for #e hours4 ,strain the broth1 and1 when cold1 take off all the fat4 ,it may be eaten either warmed up or cold as a jelly4 ,time4--#e hours4 ,average cost1 #as4 ,sufficient to make from #a-a_/b to #b pints of jelly4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,lemonade ,,for ,,invalids4 #ahgj4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lemon1 lump sugar to taste1 #a pint of boiling water4 ,mode4--,pare off the rind of the lemon thinly2 cut the lemon into #b or #c thick slices1 and remove as much as possible of the white outside pith1 and all the pips4 ,put the slices of lemon1 the peel1 and lump sugar into a jug2 pour over the boiling water2 cover it closely1 and in #b hours it will be fit to drink4 ,it should either be strained or poured off from the sediment4 ,time4--#b hours4 ,average cost1 #b;d4 ,sufficient to make #a pint of lemonade4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,nourishing ,,lemonade4 #ahga4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b pint of boiling water1 the juice of #d lemons1 the rinds of #b1 #a_/b pint of sherry1 #d eggs1 #f oz4 of loaf sugar4 ,mode4--,pare off the lemon-rind thinly1 put it into a jug with the sugar1 and pour over the boiling water4 ,let it cool1 then strain it2 add the wine1 lemon-juice1 and eggs1 previously well beaten1 and also strained1 and the beverage will be ready for use4 ,if thought desirable1 the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened1 and milk substituted for them4 ,to obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly1 a few lumps of the sugar should be rubbed over it1 until some of the yellow is absorbed4 ,time4--,altogether #a hour to make it4 ,average cost1 #as4 #h;d4 ,sufficient to make #b-a_/b pints of lemonade4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,,mutton ,,broth4 #ahgb4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of the scrag end of the neck of mutton1 #a onion1 a bunch of sweet herbs1 #d turnip1 #a_/b pints of water1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,put the mutton into a stewpan2 pour over the water cold and add the other ingredients4 ,when it boils1 skim it very carefully1 cover the pan closely1 and let it simmer very gently for an hour2 strain it1 let it cool1 take off all the fat from the surface1 and warm up as much as may be required1 adding1 if the patient be allowed to take it1 a teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded4 ,pearl barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth1 and should be boiled as long as the other ingredients4 ,when either of these is added1 the broth must not be strained1 but merely thoroughly skimmed4 ,plain mutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton1 water1 and salt together1 straining it1 letting the broth cool1 skimming all the fat off1 and warming up as much as is required4 ,this preparation would be very tasteless and insipid1 but likely to agree with very delicate stomachs1 whereas the least addition of other ingredients would have the contrary effect4 ,time4--#a hour4 ,average cost1 #g;d4 ,sufficient to make from #a-a_/b to #b pints of broth4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,note4--,veal broth may be made in the same manner2 the knuckle of a leg or shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose4 ,it is very good with the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl1 or a few shank-bones4 ,,mutton ,,broth1 ,,quickly ,,made4 #ahgc4 ,,ingredients4--#a or #b chops from a neck of mutton1 #a pint of water1 a small bunch of sweet herbs1 #a_/d of an onion1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,cut the meat into small pieces1 put it into a saucepan with the bones1 but no skin or fat2 add the other ingredients2 cover the saucepan1 and bring the water quickly to boil4 ,take the lid off1 and continue the rapid boiling for #bj minutes1 skimming it well during the process2 strain the broth into a basin2 if there should be any fat left on the surface1 remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top3 the greasy particles will adhere to the paper1 and so free the preparation from them4 ,to an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top2 to avoid this1 it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool1 the fat can then be so easily removed4 ,time4--#bj minutes after the water boils4 ,average cost1 #e;d4 ,sufficient to make #a_/b pint of broth4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,stewed ,,rabbits ,,in ,,milk4 #ahgd4 ,,ingredients4--#b very young rabbits1 not nearly half grown2 #a-a_/b pint of milk1 #a blade of mace1 #a dessertspoonful of flour1 a little salt and cayenne4 ,mode4--,mix the flour very smoothly with #d tablespoonfuls of the milk1 and when this is well mixed1 add the remainder4 ,cut up the rabbits into joints1 put them into a stewpan1 with the milk and other ingredients1 and simmer them very gently until quite tender4 ,stir the contents from time to time1 to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning4 #a_/b hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish4 ,time4--#a_/b hour4 ,average cost1 from #as4 to #as4 #f;d4 each4 ,sufficient for #c or #d meals4 ,seasonable from ,september to ,february4 ,,rice-,,milk4 #ahge4 ,,ingredients4--#c tablespoonfuls of rice1 #a quart of milk1 sugar to taste2 when liked1 a little grated nutmeg4 ,mode4--,well wash the rice1 put it into a saucepan with the milk1 and simmer gently until the rice is tender1 stirring it from time to time to prevent the milk from burning2 sweeten it1 add a little grated nutmeg1 and serve4 ,this dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children2 it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel1 and a little finely-minced suet may be boiled with it1 which renders it more strengthening and more wholesome4 ,tapioca1 semolina1 vermicelli1 and macaroni1 may all be dressed in the same manner4 ,time4--,from #c_/d to #a hour4 ,seasonable at any time4 ,,to ,,make ,,toast-,,and-,,water4 #ahgf4 ,,ingredients4--,a slice of bread1 #a quart of boiling water4 ,mode4--,cut a slice from a stale loaf 7a piece of hard crust is better than anything else for the purpose71 toast it of a nice brown on every side1 but do not allow it to burn or blacken4 ,put it into a jug1 pour the boiling water over it1 cover it closely1 and let it remain until cold4 ,when strained1 it will be ready for use4 ,toast-and-water should always be made a short time before it is required1 to enable it to get cold3 if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state1 it is an exceedingly disagreeable beverage4 ,if1 as is sometimes the case1 this drink is wanted in a hurry1 put the toasted bread into a jug1 and only just cover it with the boiling water2 when this is cool1 cold water may be added in the proportion required1--the toast-and-water strained2 it will then be ready for use1 and is more expeditiously prepared than by the above method4 ,,toast ,,sandwiches4 #ahgg4 ,,ingredients4--,thin cold toast1 thin slices of bread-and-butter1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,mode4--,place a very thin piece of cold toast between #b slices of thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich1 adding a seasoning of pepper and salt4 ,this sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat1 or very fine slices of cold meat1 to the toast1 and in any of these forms will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid4 #ahgh4 ,besides the recipes contained in this chapter1 there are1 in the previous chapters on cookery1 many others suitable for invalids1 which it would be useless to repeat here4 ,recipes for fish simply dressed1 light soups1 plain roast meat1 well-dressed vegetables1 poultry1 simple puddings1 jelly1 stewed fruits1 c4 c41 all of which dishes may be partaken of by invalids and convalescents1 will be found in preceding chapters4 ,,dinners ,,and ,,dining4 ,,chapter ,,xl4 #ahgi4 ,man1 it has been said1 is a dining animal4 ,creatures of the inferior races eat and drink2 man only dines4 ,it has also been said that he is a cooking animal2 but some races eat food without cooking it4 ,a ,croat captain said to ,m4 ,brillat ,savarin1 ,when1 in campaign1 we feel hungry1 we knock over the first animal we find1 cut off a steak1 powder it with salt1 put it under the saddle1 gallop over it for half a mile1 and then eat it4 ,huntsmen in ,dauphiny1 when out shooting1 have been known to kill a bird1 pluck it1 salt and pepper it1 and cook it by carrying it some time in their caps4 ,it is equally true that some races of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture4 ,it is not a dinner at which sits the aboriginal ,australian1 who gnaws his bone half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw4 ,and the native of ,terra-del-,fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay4 ,dining is the privilege of civilization4 ,the rank which a people occupy in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals1 as well as by their way of treating their women4 ,the nation which knows how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress4 ,it implies both the will and the skill to reduce to order1 and surround with idealisms and graces1 the more material conditions of human existence2 and wherever that will and that skill exist1 life cannot be wholly ignoble4 #ahhj4 ,dinner1 being the grand solid meal of the day1 is a matter of considerable importance2 and a well-served table is a striking index of human1 ingenuity and resource4 ,their table1 says ,lord ,byron1 in describing a dinner-party given by ,lord and ,lady ,amundevillo at ,norman ,abbey1-- ,their table was a board to tempt even ghosts ,to pass the ,styx for more substantial feasts4 ,i will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts1 ,albeit all human history attests ,that happiness for man--the hungry sinner6-- ,since ,eve ate apples1 much depends on dinner4 ,and then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the modifications which occur in civilized life1 one of the simplest of the primal instincts3-- ,the mind is lost in mighty contemplation ,of intellect expended on two courses2 ,and indigestion's grand multiplication ,requires arithmetic beyond my forces4 ,who would suppose1 from ,adam's simple ration1 ,that cookery could have call'd forth such resources1 ,as form a science and a nomenclature ,from out the commonest demands of nature8 ,and we may well say1 ,who1 indeed1 would suppose it8 ,the gulf between the ,croat1 with a steak under his saddle1 and ,alexis ,soyer getting up a great dinner at the ,reform-,club1 or even ,thackeray's ,mrs4 ,raymond ,gray giving a little dinner to ,mr4 ,snob 7with one of those famous roly-poly puddings of hers71--what a gulf it is6 #ahha4 ,that ,adam's ration1 however1 was simple1 is a matter on which we have contrary judgments given by the poets4 ,when ,raphael paid that memorable visit to ,paradise1--which we are expressly told by ,milton he did exactly at dinner-time1--,eve seems to have prepared a little dinner not wholly destitute of complexity1 and to have added ice-creams and perfumes4 ,nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on these points3-- ,and ,eve within1 due at her home prepared ,for dinner savoury fruits1 of taste to please ,true appetite1 and not disrelish thirst ,of nectarous draughts between4444 4444 ,with dispatchful looks in haste ,she turns1 on hospitable thoughts intent1 ,what choice to choose for delicacy best1 ,what order so contrived as not to mix ,tastes not well join'd1 inelegant1 but bring ,taste after taste1 upheld with kindliest change-- 99 99 99 99 99 ,she tempers dulcet creams4444 4444 then strews the ground ,with rose and odours4 ,it may be observed1 in passing1 that the poets1 though they have more to say about wine than solid food1 because the former more directly stimulates the intellect and the feelings1 do not flinch from the subject of eating and drinking4 ,there is infinite zest in the above passage from ,milton1 and even more in the famous description of a dainty supper1 given by ,keats in his ,eve of ,saint ,agnes4 ,could ,queen ,mab herself desire to sit down to anything nicer1 both as to its appointments and serving1 and as to its quality1 than the collation served by ,porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept8-- ,there by the bedside1 where the faded moon ,made a dim silver twilight1 soft he set ,a table1 and1 half-anguish'd1 threw thereor ,a cloth of woven crimson1 gold1 and jet4 99 99 99 99 99 ,while he1 from forth the closet1 brought a heap ,of candied apple1 quince1 and plum1 and gourd2 ,with jellies smoother than the creamy curd1 ,and lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon2 ,manna and dates1 in argosy transferr'd ,from ,fez2 and spiced dainties1 every one1 ,from silken ,samarcand to cedar'd ,lebanon4 ,but ,tennyson has ventured beyond dates1 and quinces1 and syrups1 which may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet4 ,in his idyl of ,audley ,court he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic3-- ,there1 on a slope of orchard1 ,francis laid ,a damask napkin wrought with horse and hound2 ,brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home1 ,and1 half cut down1 a pasty costly made1 ,where quail and pigeon1 lark and leveret1 lay ,like fossils of the rock1 with golden yolks ,imbedded and injellied4 ,we gladly quote passages like these1 to show how eating and drinking may be surrounded with poetical associations1 and how man1 using his privilege to turn any and every repast into a feast of reason1 with a warm and plentiful flow of soul1 may really count it as not the least of his legitimate prides1 that he is a dining animal4 #ahhb4 ,it has been said1 indeed1 that great men1 in general1 are great diners4 ,this1 however1 can scarcely be true of any great men but men of action2 and1 in that case1 it would simply imply that persons of vigorous constitution1 who work hard1 eat heartily2 for1 of course1 a life of action requires a vigorous constitution1 even though there may be much illness1 as in such cases as ,william ,,iii4 and our brave ,general ,napier4 ,of men of thought1 it can scarcely be true that they eat so much1 in a general way1 though even they eat more than they are apt to suppose they do2 for1 as ,mr4 ,lewes observes1 nerve-tissue is very expensive4 ,leaving great men of all kinds1 however1 to get their own dinners1 let us1 who are not great1 look after ours4 ,dine we must1 and we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely4 #ahhc4 ,there are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days1 and they were not wanting in ancient times4 ,it is well known that the dinner-party1 or symposium1 was a not unimportant1 and not unpoetical1 feature in the life of the sociable1 talkative1 tasteful ,greek4 ,douglas ,jerrold said that such is the ,british humour for dining and giving of dinners1 that if ,london were to be destroyed by an earthquake1 the ,londoners would meet at a public dinner to consider the subject4 ,the ,greeks1 too1 were great diners3 their social and religious polity gave them many chances of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking4 ,any public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods1 was sure to be followed by a dinner-party1 the remains of the slaughtered offering being served up on the occasion as a pious pice de rsistance2 and as the different gods1 goddesses1 and demigods1 worshipped by the community in general1 or by individuals1 were very numerous indeed1 and some very religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or other1 the dinner-parties were countless4 ,a birthday1 too1 was an excuse for a dinner2 a birthday1 that is1 of any person long dead and buried1 as well as of a living person1 being a member of the family1 or otherwise esteemed4 ,dinners were1 of course1 eaten on all occasions of public rejoicing4 ,then1 among the young people1 subscription dinners1 very much after the manner of modern times1 were always being got up2 only that they would be eaten not at an hotel1 but probably at the house of one of the heterae4 ,a ,greek dinner-party was a handsome1 well-regulated affair4 ,the guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned with flowers4 ,a slave1 approaching each person as he entered1 took off his sandals and washed his feet4 ,during the repast1 the guests reclined on couches with pillows1 among and along which were set small tables4 ,after the solid meal came the symposium proper1 a scene of music1 merriment1 and dancing1 the two latter being supplied chiefly by young girls4 ,there was a chairman1 or symposiarch1 appointed by the company to regulate the drinking2 and it was his duty to mix the wine in the mighty bowl4 ,from this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into goblets1 and1 with the goblets1 went round and round the tables1 filling the cups of the guests4 #ahhd4 ,the elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which depends1 of course1 partly upon the means1 but still more upon the taste of the master and mistress of the house4 ,it may be observed1 in general1 that there should always be flowers on the table1 and as they form no item of expense1 there is no reason why they should not be employed every day4 #ahhe4 ,the variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern dinner-table1 does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome1 or anything capricious4 ,food that is not well relished cannot be well digested2 and the appetite of the over-worked man of business1 or statesman1 or of any dweller in towns1 whose occupations are exciting and exhausting1 is jaded1 and requires stimulation4 ,men and women who are in rude health1 and who have plenty of air and exercise1 eat the simplest food with relish1 and consequently digest it well2 but those conditions are out of the reach of many men4 ,they must suit their mode of dining to their mode of living1 if they cannot choose the latter4 ,it is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked2 and she has scarcely a more important duty to fulfil4 ,it is1 in fact1 her particular vocation1 in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family1 and of the friends of the family1 in her hands from day to day4 ,it has been said that the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed2 and a great gastronomist exclaims1 ,tell me what kind of food you eat1 and ,i will tell you what kind of man you are4 ,the same writer has some sentences of the same kind1 which are rather hyperbolical1 but worth quoting3--,the pleasures of the table belong to all ages1 to all conditions1 to all countries1 and to all eras2 they mingle with all other pleasures1 and remain1 at last1 to console us for their departure4 ,the discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than the discovery of a new star4 #ahhf4 ,the gastronomist from whom we have already quoted1 has some aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties1 which are well deserving of notice3--,let the number of your guests never exceed twelve1 so that the conversation may be general4 ,footnote3 ,we have seen this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the ,muses or fall below that of the ,graces4 ,let the temperature of the dining-room be about #fh4 ,let the dishes be few in number in the first course1 but proportionally good4 ,the order of food is from the most substantial to the lightest4 ,the order of drinking wine is from the mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed4 ,to invite a person to your house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your roof4 ,the mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee be excellent2 whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of his wines and liqueurs4 ,,bills ,,of ,,fare4 ,,january4 #ahhg4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,mock ,turtle ,soup1 removed by ,cod's ,head and ,shoulders4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,vase of ,red ,mullet4 ,flowers4 ,clear ,oxtail ,soup1 removed by ,fried ,filleted ,soles4 ,entres4 ,riz de ,veau aux ,tomates4 ,ragot of ,vase of ,cotelettes de ,pore ,lobster4 ,flowers4 la ,roberts4 ,poulet la ,marengo4 ,second ,course4 ,roast ,turkey4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,vase of ,boiled ,ham4 ,celery ,sauce4 ,flowers4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,third ,course4 ,charlotte ,pheasants1 ,apricot ,jam la ,parisienne4 removed by ,tartlets4 ,plum-pudding4 ,jelly4 ,cream4 ,vase of ,cream4 ,flowers4 ,jelly4 ,snipes1 removed by ,pommes la ,cond4 ,we have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the #ast ,course1 ,entres1 #bnd ,course1 and #crd ,course4 ,following this will be found bills of fare for smaller parties2 and it will be readily seen1 by studying the above arrangement of dishes1 how to place a less number for the more limited company4 ,several menus for dinners la ,russe1 are also included in the present chapter4 #ahhh4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,january74 ,,first ,,course4 ,carrot ,soup la ,crcy4 ,oxtail ,soup4 ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,smelts1 with ,dutch ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,mutton ,cutlets1 with ,soubise ,sauce4 ,sweetbreads4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,fillets of ,rabbits4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,turkey4 ,stewed ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,boiled ,ham1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,boiled ,chickens and ,celery ,sauce4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,hare4 ,teal4 ,eggs la ,neige4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,preserved ,fruit4 #a ,jelly4 #a ,cream4 ,potatoes la ,matre d',htel4 ,grilled ,mushrooms4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #ahhi4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,january74 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,whitings au ,gratin4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,tendrons de ,veau4 ,curried ,fowl and ,boiled ,rice4 ,,second ,,course4 ,turkey1 stuffed with ,chestnuts1 and ,chestnut ,sauce4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton1 ,english ,fashion1 with ,capers ,sauce and ,mashed ,turnips4 ,,third ,,course4 ,woodcocks or ,partridges4 ,widgeon4 ,charlotte la ,vanille4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,blancmange4 ,artichoke ,bottoms4 ,macaroni1 with ,parmesan ,cheese4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #ahij4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,january74 ,,first ,,course4 ,mulligatawny ,soup4 ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,fried ,whitings4 ,,entrees4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,pork ,cutlets1 with ,tomato ,sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,boiled ,tongue1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,pheasants4 ,meringues la ,crme4 ,compte of ,apples4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,cheesecakes4 ,souffl of ,rice4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #ahia4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,january74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,soles la ,normandie4 ,,entrees4 ,sweetbreads1 with ,sauce ,piquante4 ,mutton ,cutlets1 with ,mashed ,potatoes4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,bacon1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,plum-pudding4 ,custards in ,glasses4 ,apple ,tart4 ,fondue la ,brillat ,savarin4 ,,dessert4 #ahib4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,january74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,fried ,slices of ,codfish and ,anchovy ,sauce4 ,john ,dory4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,rump-steak la ,jardinire ,rissoles4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,leg of ,mutton4 ,curried ,rabbit and ,boiled ,rice4 ,,third ,,course4 ,partridges4 ,apple ,fritters4 ,tartlets of ,greengage ,jam4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,plum-pudding4 ,,dessert4 #ahic4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,january74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,pea-soup4 ,baked ,haddock4 ,soles la ,crme4 ,,entrees4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,tomato ,sauce4 ,fricasseed ,rabbit4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,pork and ,apple ,sauce4 ,breast of ,veal1 ,rolled and ,stuffed4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,jugged ,hare4 ,whipped ,cream1 ,blancmange4 ,mince ,pies4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 #ahid4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,january74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,palestine ,soup4 ,fried ,smelts4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,ragot of ,lobster4 ,broiled ,mushrooms4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,chicken4 ,,second ,,course4 ,sirloin of ,beef4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,celery ,sauce4 ,tongue1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,cheesecakes4 ,transparent ,jelly1 inlaid with ,brandy ,cherries4 ,blancmange4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,january4 #ahie4 ,sunday4--#a1 ,boiled turbot and oyster sauce1 potatoes4 #b4 ,roast leg or griskin of pork1 apple sauce1 brocoli1 potatoes4 #c4 ,cabinet pudding1 and damson tart made with preserved damsons4 #ahif4 ,monday4--#a4 ,the remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce1 potatoes4 #b4 ,cold pork1 stewed steak4 #c4 ,open jam tart1 which should have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart2 baked arrowroot pudding4 #ahig4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,boiled neck of mutton1 carrots1 mashed turnips1 suet dumplings1 and caper sauce3 the broth should be served first1 and a little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the meat4 #b4 ,rolled jam pudding4 #ahih4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast rolled ribs of beef1 greens1 potatoes1 and horseradish sauce4 #b4 ,bread-and-butter pudding1 cheesecakes4 #ahii4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup 7the bones from the ribs of beef should be boiled down with this soup71 cold beef1 mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,pheasants1 gravy1 bread sauce4 #c4 ,macaroni4 #aijj4 ,friday4--#a4 ,fried whitings or soles4 #b4 ,boiled rabbit and onion sauce1 minced beef1 potatoes4 #c4 ,currant dumplings4 #aija4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak pudding or pie1 greens1 and potatoes4 #b4 ,baked custard pudding and stewed apples4 99 99 99 99 99 #aijb4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,codfish and oyster sauce1 potatoes4 #b4 ,joint of roast mutton1 either leg1 haunch1 or saddle2 brocoli and potatoes1 red-currant jelly4 #c4 ,apple tart and custards1 cheese4 #aijc4 ,monday4--#a4 ,the remains of codfish picked from the bone1 and warmed through in the oyster sauce2 if there is no sauce left1 order a few oysters and make a little fresh2 and do not let the fish boil1 or it will be watery4 #b4 ,curried rabbit1 with boiled rice served separately1 cold mutton1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce4 #aijd4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,boiled fowls1 parsley-and-butter2 bacon garnished with ,brussels sprouts1 minced or hashed mutton4 #b4 ,baroness pudding4 #aije4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,the remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed2 joint of roast pork and apple sauce1 and1 if liked1 sage-and-onion1 served on a dish by itself2 turnips and potatoes4 #b4 ,lemon pudding1 either baked or boiled4 #aijf4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,cold pork and jugged hare1 red-currant jelly1 mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,apple pudding4 #aijg4 ,friday4--#a4 ,boiled beef1 either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round2 carrots1 turnips1 suet dumplings1 and potatoes3 if there is a marrowbone1 serve the marrow on toast at the same time4 #b4 ,rice snowballs4 #aijh4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled2 cold beef1 mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,baked batter fruit pudding4 ,,february4 #aiji4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,hare ,soup1 removed by ,turbot and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,fried ,eels4 ,vase of ,fried ,whitings4 ,flowers4 ,oyster ,soup1 removed by ,crimped ,cod la ,matre d',htel4 ,entres4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,lobster ,patties4 ,vase of ,filets de ,perdrix4 ,flowers4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,second ,course4 ,braised ,capon4 ,boiled ,ham1 garnished4 ,roast ,fowls1 garnished ,vase of ,boiled ,fowls and with ,water-cresses4 ,flowers4 ,white ,sauce4 ,pt ,chaud4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,third ,course ,ducklings1 removed by ,ice ,pudding4 ,meringues4 ,coffee ,cream4 ,cheesecakes4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,vase of ,clear ,jelly4 ,flowers4 ,victoria ,blancmange4 ,gteau de ,sandwiches4 ,pommes4 ,partridges1 removed by ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiaj4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,february74 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup a la ,reine4 ,clear ,gravy ,soup4 ,brill and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,smelts4 ,,entrees4 ,lobster ,rissoles4 ,beef ,palates4 ,pork ,cutlets la ,soubise4 ,grilled ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,braised ,turkey4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,capon and ,oysters4 ,tongue1 garnished with tufts of ,brocoli4 ,vegetables and ,salads4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,plovers4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,clear ,jelly4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,gteau de ,riz4 ,sea-kale4 ,maids of ,honour4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiaa4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,february74 ,,first ,,course4 ,palestine ,soup4 ,john ,dory1 with ,dutch ,sauce4 ,red ,mullet1 with ,sauce ,gnoise4 ,,entrees4 ,sweetbread ,cutlets1 with ,poivrade ,sauce4 ,fowl au ,bchamel4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,capon and ,oysters4 ,boiled ,tongue1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,guinea-,fowls4 ,ducklings4 ,pain de ,rhubarb4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,cheesecakes4 ,almond ,pudding4 ,fig ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiab4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,february74 ,,first ,,course4 ,mock ,turtle ,soup4 ,fillets of ,turbot a la ,crme4 ,fried ,filleted ,soles and ,anchovy ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,larded ,fillets of ,rabbits4 ,tendrons de ,veau with ,pure of ,tomatoes4 ,,second ,,course4 ,stewed ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,roast ,fowls4 ,boiled ,ham4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,pigeons or ,larks4 ,rhubarb ,tartlets4 ,meringues4 ,clear ,jelly4 ,cream4 ,ice ,pudding4 ,souffl4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiac4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,february7--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,rice ,soup4 ,red ,mullet1 with ,gnoise ,sauce4 ,fried ,smelts4 ,,entrees4 ,fowl ,pudding4 ,sweetbreads4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,turkey and ,sausages4 ,boiled ,leg of ,pork4 ,pease ,pudding4 ,,third ,,course4 ,lemon ,jelly4 ,charlotte la ,vanille4 ,maids of ,honour4 ,plum-pudding1 removed by ,ice ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #aiad4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,february74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,spring ,soup4 ,boiled ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,fricasseed ,rabbit4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,round of ,beef and ,marrow-bones4 ,roast ,fowls1 garnished with ,water-cresses and rolled ,bacon4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,marrow ,pudding4 ,cheesecakes4 ,tartlets of ,greengage ,jam4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,,dessert4 #aiae4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,february74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,fried ,whitings4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,poulet la ,marengo4 ,breast of ,veal stuffed and rolled4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,leg of ,pork and ,apple ,sauce4 ,boiled ,capon and ,oysters4 ,tongue1 garnished with tufts of ,brocoli4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,pain de ,rhubarb4 ,vanilla ,cream4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,,dessert4 #aiaf4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,february74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,ox-tail ,soup4 ,cod la ,crme4 ,fried ,soles4 ,,entrees4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,fowl ,scollops4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,leg of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,small ,ham1 boiled and garnished4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,game1 when liked4 ,tartlets of ,raspberry ,jam4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,rhubarb4 ,swiss ,cream4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,brocoli and ,sea-kale4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,february4 #aiag4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,ox-tail soup4 #b ,roast beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 brocoli1 and potatoes4 #c4 ,plum-pudding1 apple tart4 ,cheese4 #aiah4 ,monday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 plain melted butter1 and potatoes4 #b4 ,cold roast beef1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,the remains of plum-pudding cut in slices1 warmed1 and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it4 ,cheese4 #aiai4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,the remains of ox-tail soup from ,sunday4 #b4 ,pork cutlets with tomato sauce2 hashed beef4 #c4 ,boiled jam pudding4 ,cheese4 #aibj4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled haddock and plain melted butter4 #b4 ,rump-steak pudding1 potatoes1 greens4 #c4 ,arrowroot1 blancmange1 garnished with jam4 #aiba4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,boiled leg of pork1 greens1 potatoes1 pease pudding4 #b4 ,apple fritters1 sweet macaroni4 #aibb4 ,friday4--#a4 ,pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled in4 #b4 ,cold pork1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,baked rice pudding4 #aibc4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,broiled herrings and mustard sauce4 #b4 ,haricot mutton4 #c4 ,macaroni1 either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese4 99 99 99 99 99 #aibd4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,carrot soup4 #b4 ,boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce1 mashed turnips1 roast fowls1 and bacon4 #c4 ,damson tart made with bottled fruit1 ratafia pudding4 #aibe4 ,monday4--#a4 ,the remainder of fowl curried and served with rice2 rump-steaks and oyster sauce1 cold mutton4 #b4 ,rolled jam pudding4 #aibf4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in on ,sunday4 #b4 ,roast sirloin of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 brocoli1 and potatoes4 #c4 ,cheese4 #aibg4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 melted butter4 #b4 ,cold beef and mashed potatoes3 if there is any cold boiled mutton left1 cut it into neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce4 #c4 ,apple tart4 #aibh4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,boiled rabbit and onion sauce1 stewed beef and vegetables1 made with the remains of cold beef and bones4 #b4 ,macaroni4 #aibi4 ,friday4--#a4 ,roast leg of pork1 sage and onions and apple sauce2 greens and potatoes4 #b4 ,spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding4 ,cheese and water-cresses4 #aicj4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding1 cold pork and mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,baked rice pudding4 ,,march4 #aica4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,turtle or ,mock ,turtle ,soup1 removed by ,salmon and dressed ,cucumber4 ,red ,mullet4 ,vase of ,filets of ,whitings4 ,flowers4 ,spring ,soup1 removed by ,boiled ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,entres ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,vol-au-,vent4 ,vase of ,compte of ,pigeons4 ,flowers4 ,larded ,sweetbreads4 ,second ,course4 ,fore-quarter of ,lamb4 ,braised ,capon4 ,boiled ,tongue1 ,vase of ,ham4 garnished4 ,flowers4 ,roast ,fowls4 ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,third ,course4 ,guinea-,fowls1 larded1 removed by ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,apricot ,wine ,jelly4 ,rhubarb ,tartlets4 ,tart4 ,custards4 ,vase of ,jelly in ,flowers4 glasses4 ,italian ,cream4 ,damson ,tart4 ,ducklings1 ,cheesecakes4 removed by ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aicb4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,march74 ,,first ,,course4 ,white ,soup4 ,clear ,gravy ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon1 ,shrimp ,sauce1 and dressed ,cucumber4 ,baked ,mullets in paper cases4 ,,entrees4 ,filet de ,boeuf and ,spanish ,sauce4 ,larded ,sweetbreads4 ,rissoles4 ,chicken ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal and ,bchamel ,sauce4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb4 ,roast ,fowls1 garnished with ,water-cresses4 ,boiled ,ham1 garnished with ,carrots and mashed ,turnips4 ,vegetables--,sea-kale1 ,spinach1 or ,brocoli4 ,,third ,,course4 ,two ,ducklings4 ,guinea-,fowl1 larded4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,coffee ,cream4 ,ice ,pudding4 ,macaroni with ,parmesan ,cheese4 ,spinach1 garnished with ,croutons4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aicc4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,march74 ,,first ,,course4 ,macaroni ,soup4 ,boiled ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,salmon ,cutlets4 ,,entrees4 ,compte of ,pigeons4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,tomato ,sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,boiled ,half ,calf's ,head1 ,tongue1 and ,brains4 ,boiled ,bacon-cheek1 garnished with spoonfuls of ,spinach4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,plum-pudding4 ,ginger ,cream4 ,trifle4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,cheesecakes4 ,fondues1 in cases4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aicd4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,march74 ,,first ,,course4 ,calf's-,head ,soup4 ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,broiled ,mackerel la ,matre d',htel4 ,,entrees4 ,lobster ,cutlets4 ,calf's ,liver and ,bacon1 aux fines herbes4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,loin of ,veal4 ,two ,boiled ,fowls la ,bchamel4 ,boiled ,knuckle of ,ham4 ,vegetables--,spinach or ,brocoli4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,apple ,custards4 ,blancmange4 ,lemon ,jelly4 ,jam ,sandwiches4 ,ice ,pudding4 ,potatoes la ,matre d',htel4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aice4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,march74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,soles la ,crme4 ,,entrees4 ,veal ,cutlets4 ,small ,vols-au-,vent4 ,,second ,,course4 ,small ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,half ,calf's ,head4 ,boiled ,bacon-cheek1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,,dessert4 #aicf4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,march74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,baked ,mullets4 ,,entrees4 ,chicken ,cutlets4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb and ,mint ,sauce4 ,boiled ,leg of ,pork4 ,pease ,pudding4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,swiss ,cream4 ,lemon ,jelly4 ,cheesecakes4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,macaroni4 ,dessert4 #aicg4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,march74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,oyster ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon and dressed ,cucumber4 ,,entrees4 ,rissoles4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton1 ,caper ,sauce4 ,roast ,fowls1 garnished with ,water-cresses4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,souffl of ,arrowroot4 ,sea-kale4 ,,dessert4 #aich4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,march74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,ox-tail ,soup4 ,boiled ,mackerel4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,mutton ,kidneys4 ,minced ,veal and ,oysters4 ,,second ,,course4 ,stewed ,shoulder of ,veal4 ,roast ,ribs of ,beef and ,horseradish ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,tartlets of ,strawberry ,jam4 ,cheesecakes4 ,gateau de ,riz4 ,carrot ,pudding4 ,sea-kale4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,march4 #aici4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,boiled #a_/b calf's head1 pickled pork1 the tongue on a small dish with the brains round it2 mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,plum tart made with bottled fruit1 baked custard pudding1 ,baroness pudding4 #aidj4 ,monday4--#a4 ,roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce1 brocoli1 baked potatoes4 #b4 ,slices of ,baroness pudding warmed1 and served with sugar sprinkled over4 ,cheesecakes4 #aida4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,mock turtle soup1 made with liquor that calf's head was boiled in1 and the pieces of head4 #b4 ,hashed mutton1 rump-steaks and oyster sauce4 #c4 ,boiled plum-pudding4 #aidb4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,fried whitings1 melted butter1 potatoes4 #b4 ,boiled beef1 suet dumplings1 carrots1 potatoes1 marrow-bones4 #c4 ,arrowroot blancmange1 and stewed rhubarb4 #aidc4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in4 #b4 ,stewed rump-steak1 cold beef1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,rolled jam pudding4 #aidd4 ,friday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 melted butter1 potatoes4 #b4 ,roast loin of mutton1 brocoli1 potatoes1 bubble-and-squeak4 #c4 ,rice pudding4 #aide4 ,saturday4--#a4--,rump-steak pie1 haricot mutton made with remains of cold loin4 #b4 ,pancakes1 ratafia pudding4 99 99 99 99 99 #aidf4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,roast fillet of veal1 boiled ham1 spinach and potatoes4 #b4 ,rhubarb tart1 custards in glasses1 bread-and-butter pudding4 #aidg4 ,monday4--#a4 ,baked soles1 potatoes4 #b4 ,minced veal and rump-steak pie4 #c4 ,somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured round them2 marmalade tartlets4 #aidh4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,gravy soup4 #b4 ,boiled leg of mutton1 mashed turnips1 suet dumplings1 caper sauce1 potatoes1 veal rissoles made with remains of fillet of veal4 #c4 ,cheese4 #aidi4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,stewed mullets4 #b4 ,roast fowls1 bacon1 gravy1 and bread sauce1 mutton pudding1 made with a few slices of the cold meat and the addition of two kidneys4 #c4 ,baked lemon pudding4 #aiej4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in1 and mixed with the remains of gravy soup4 #b4 ,roast ribs of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 horseradish sauce1 brocoli and potatoes4 #c4 ,apple pudding or macaroni4 #aiea4 ,friday4--#a4 ,stewed eels1 pork cutlets and tomato sauce4 #b4 ,cold beef1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,plum tart made with bottled fruit4 #aieb4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding1 broiled beef-bones1 greens and potatoes4 #b4 ,jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum tart1 baked custard pudding4 ,,april4 #aiec4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,spring ,soup1 removed by ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fillet of ,mackerel4 ,vase of ,fried ,smelts4 ,flowers4 ,soles a la ,crme4 ,entres4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,asparagus ,peas4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,vase of ,oyster ,patties4 ,flowers4 ,grenadines de ,veau4 ,second ,course4 ,roast ,ribs of ,lamb4 ,larded ,capon4 ,stewed ,beef ,a la ,vase of ,boiled ,ham4 ,jardinire4 ,flowers4 ,spring ,chickens4 ,braised ,turkey4 ,third ,course4 ,ducklings1 removed by ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,clear ,jelly4 ,charlotte a la ,parisienne4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,raspberry ,jam ,turtles4 ,vase of ,cheese-,cakes4 ,victoria ,sandwiches4 ,flowers4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aied4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,april74 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,slices of ,salmon a la ,genvse4 ,,entrees4 ,croquettes of ,leveret4 ,fricandeau de ,veau4 ,vol-au-,vent4 ,stewed ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,fore-quarter of ,lamb4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,chickens and ,asparagus ,peas4 ,boiled ,tongue garnished with ,tufts of ,brocoli4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,larded ,guinea-,fowls4 ,charlotte a la ,parisienne4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,meringues4 ,ratafia ,ice ,pudding4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,sea-kale4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiee4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,april74 ,,first ,,course ,gravy ,soup4 ,salmon and ,dressed ,cucumber4 ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,fillets of ,whitings4 ,,entrees4 ,lobster ,cutlets4 ,chicken ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb4 ,ham1 garnished with ,brocoli4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,compte of ,rhubarb4 ,custards4 ,vanilla ,cream4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,ice ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #aief4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,april74 ,,first ,,course4 ,spring ,soup4 ,slices of ,salmon and ,caper ,sauce4 ,fried ,filleted ,soles4 ,,entrees4 ,chicken ,vol-au-,vent4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,tomato ,sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,loin of ,veal4 ,boiled ,fowls la ,bchamel4 ,tongue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,guinea-,fowl4 ,sea-kale4 ,artichoke ,bottoms4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,blancmange4 ,apricot ,tartlets4 ,rice ,fritters4 ,macaroni and ,parmesan ,cheese4 ,,dessert4 #aieg4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,april74 ,,first ,,course4 ,tapioca ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,sweetbreads4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,capon and ,white ,sauce4 ,tongue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,souffl of ,rice4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,charlotte la ,parisienne4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,,dessert4 #aieh4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,april74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,fried ,whitings4 ,red ,mullet4 ,,entrees4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,rissoles4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,ribs of ,beef4 ,neck of ,veal la ,bchamel4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,lemon ,pudding4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,custards4 ,cheesecakes4 ,,dessert4 #aiei4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,april74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,fricandeau of ,veal4 ,lobster ,cutlets4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fore-quarter of ,lamb4 ,boiled ,chickens4 ,tongue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,goslings4 ,sea-kale4 ,plum-pudding4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,compte of ,rhubarb4 ,cheesecakes4 ,,dessert4 #aifj4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,april74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,ox-tail ,soup4 ,crimped ,salmon4 ,,entrees4 ,croquettes of ,chicken4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,soubise ,sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,boiled ,bacon-cheek garnished with ,sprouts4 ,boiled ,capon4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,sea-kale4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,ginger ,cream4 ,raspberry ,jam ,tartlets4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,macaroni4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,april4 #aifa4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,clear gravy soup4 #b4 ,roast haunch of mutton1 sea-kale1 potatoes4 #c4 ,rhubarb tart1 custards in glasses4 #aifb4 ,monday4--#a4 ,crimped skate and caper sauce4 #b4 ,boiled knuckle of veal and rice1 cold mutton1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,baked plum-pudding4 #aifc4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup4 #b4 ,toad-in-the-hole1 made from remains of cold mutton4 #c4 ,stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding4 #aifd4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 anchovy sauce4 #b4 ,boiled beef1 carrots1 suet dumplings4 #c4 ,lemon pudding4 #aife4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in4 #b4 ,cold beef1 mashed potatoes1 mutton cutlets and tomato sauce4 #c4 ,macaroni4 #aiff4 ,friday4--#a4 ,bubble-and-squeak1 made with remains of cold beef4 ,roast shoulder of veal stuffed1 spinach1 potatoes4 #b4 ,boiled batter pudding and sweet sauce4 #aifg4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,stewed veal with vegetables1 made from the remains of the shoulder4 ,broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce4 #b4 ,yeast-dumplings4 99 99 99 99 99 #aifh4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,boiled salmon and dressed cucumber1 anchovy sauce #b4 ,roast fore-quarter of lamb1 spinach1 potatoes1 mint sauce4 #b4 ,rhubarb tart1 cheesecakes4 #aifi4 ,monday4--#a4 ,curried salmon1 made with remains of salmon1 dish of boiled rice4 #b4 ,cold lamb1 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding1 potatoes4 #c4 ,spinach and poached eggs4 #aigj4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,scotch mutton broth with pearl barley4 #b4 ,boiled neck of mutton1 caper sauce1 suet dumplings1 carrots4 #c4 ,baked rice-pudding4 #aiga4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel sauce1 potatoes4 #b4 ,roast fillet of veal1 bacon1 and greens4 #c4 ,fig pudding4 #aigb4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,flemish soup4 #b4 ,roast loin of mutton1 brocoli1 potatoes2 veal rolls made from remains of cold veal4 #c4 ,boiled rhubarb pudding4 #aigc4 ,friday4--#a4 ,irish stew or haricot1 made from cold mutton1 minced veal4 #b4 ,half-pay pudding4 #aigd4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak pie1 broiled mutton-chops4 #b4 ,baked arrowroot pudding4 ,,may4 #aige4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,asparagus ,soup1 removed by ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,filleted ,vase of ,fillets of ,mackerel1 ,soles ,flowers4 la ,matre d',htel4 ,oxtail ,soup1 removed by ,brill ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,entres4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,lobster ,pudding4 ,vase of ,curried ,fowl4 ,flowers4 ,veal ,ragot4 ,second ,course4 ,saddle of ,lamb4 ,raised ,pie4 ,roast ,fowls4 ,vase of ,boiled ,capon ,flowers4 and ,white ,sauce4 ,braised ,ham4 ,roast ,veal4 ,third ,course4 ,almond ,goslings1 ,lobster ,salad4 ,cheesecake removed by ,college ,puddings4 ,noyeau ,jelly4 ,italian ,vase of ,charlotte la ,cream4 ,flowers4 ,parisienne4 ,inlaid ,jelly4 ,plovers' ,ducklings1 ,eggs4 removed by ,tartlets4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aigf4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,may74 ,,first ,,course4 ,white ,soup4 ,asparagus ,soup4 ,salmon ,cutlets4 ,boiled ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,chicken ,vol-au-,vent4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,fricandeau of ,veal4 ,stewed ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled and ,roast ,fowls4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,goslings4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,vanilla ,cream4 ,gooseberry ,tart4 ,custards4 ,cheesecakes4 ,cabinet ,pudding and ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aigg4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,may74 ,,first ,,course4 ,spring ,soup4 ,salmon la ,genvse4 ,red ,mullet4 ,,entrees4 ,chicken ,vol-au-,vent4 ,calf's ,liver and ,bacon aux ,fines ,herbes4 ,,second ,,course4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,half ,calf's ,head1 ,tongue1 and ,brains4 ,braised ,ham4 ,asparagus4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,pigeons4 ,ducklings4 ,sponge-cake ,pudding4 ,charlotte la ,vanille4 ,gooseberry ,tart4 ,cream4 ,cheesecakes4 ,apricot-jam ,tart4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aigh4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,may74 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,brill and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,fillets of ,mackerel4 ,,entrees ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,lobster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb4 ,asparagus4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,gooseberry ,tart4 ,custards4 ,fancy ,pastry4 ,souffl4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aigi4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,may74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon and ,anchovy ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,fillets of ,beef and ,tomato ,sauce4 ,sweetbreads4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,boiled ,capon4 ,asparagus4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,compte of ,gooseberries4 ,custards in ,glasses4 ,blancmange4 ,lemon ,tartlets4 ,fondue4 ,,dessert4 #aihj4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,may74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,macaroni ,soup4 ,boiled ,mackerel la ,maitre d',htel4 ,fried ,smelts4 ,,entrees4 ,scollops of ,fowl4 ,lobster ,pudding4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb and ,spinach4 ,roast ,sirloin of ,beef and ,horseradish ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,leveret4 ,salad4 ,souffl of ,rice4 ,ramekins4 ,strawberry-jam ,tartlets4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,,dessert4 #aiha4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,may74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,trout with ,dutch ,sauce4 ,salmon ,cutlets4 ,,entrees4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,mushrooms4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,chicken4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,calf's ,head la ,tortue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,spring ,chickens4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,vanilla ,cream4 ,clear ,jelly4 ,tartlets4 ,cheesecakes4 ,,dessert4 #aihb4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,may74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,crimped ,trout and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,baked ,whitings aux ,fines ,herbes4 ,,entrees4 ,braised ,mutton ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,stewed ,pigeons4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,bacon-cheek and ,greens4 ,fillet of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,,third ,,course4 ,ducklings4 ,souffl la ,vanille4 ,compte of ,oranges4 ,meringues4 ,gooseberry ,tart4 ,fondue4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,may4 #aihc4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup4 #b4 ,saddle of mutton1 asparagus and potatoes4 #c4 ,gooseberry tart1 custards4 #aihd4 ,monday4--#a4 ,fried whitings1 anchovy sauce4 #b4 ,cold mutton1 mashed potatoes1 stewed veal4 #c4 ,fig pudding4 #aihe4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,haricot mutton1 made from remains of cold mutton1 rump-steak pie4 #b4 ,macaroni4 #aihf4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast loin of veal and spinach1 boiled bacon1 mutton cutlets and tomato sauce4 #b4 ,gooseberry pudding and cream4 #aihg4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,spring soup4 #b4 ,roast leg of lamb1 mint sauce1 spinach1 curried veal and rice4 #c4 ,lemon pudding4 #aihh4 ,friday4--#a4 ,boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter4 #b4 ,stewed rump-steak1 cold lamb and salad4 #c4 ,baked gooseberry pudding4 #aihi4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,vermicelli4 #b4 ,rump-steak pudding1 lamb cutlets1 and cucumbers4 #c4 ,macaroni4 99 99 99 99 99 #aiij4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce4 #b4 ,roast lamb1 mint sauce1 asparagus1 potatoes4 #c4 ,plum-pudding1 gooseberry tart4 #aiia4 ,monday4--#a4 ,salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and garnished with crotons4 #b4 ,stewed knuckle of veal and rice1 cold lamb and dressed cucumber4 #c4 ,slices of pudding warmed1 and served with sugar sprinkled over4 ,baked rice pudding4 #aiib4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,roast ribs of beef1 horseradish sauce1 ,yorkshire pudding1 spinach and potatoes4 #b4 ,boiled lemon pudding4 #aiic4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 melted butter4 #b4 ,cold beef and dressed cucumber or salad1 veal cutlets and bacon4 #c4 ,baked plum-pudding4 #aiid4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,spring soup4 #b4 ,calf's liver and bacon1 broiled beef-bones1 spinach and potatoes4 #c4 ,gooseberry tart4 #aiie4 ,friday4--#a4 ,roast shoulder of mutton1 baked potatoes1 onion sauce1 spinach4 #b4 ,currant dumplings4 #aiif4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,broiled mackerel1 fennel sauce or plain melted butter4 #b4 ,rump-steak pie1 hashed mutton1 vegetables4 #c4 ,baked arrowroot pudding4 ,,june4 #aiig4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,asparagus ,soup1 removed by ,crimped ,salmon4 ,fillets of ,garnets4 ,vase of ,soles aux fines herbes4 ,flowers4 ,vermicelli ,soup1 removed by ,whitebait4 ,entres4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,peas4 ,lobster ,patties4 ,vase of ,tendrons de ,veau ,flowers4 la ,jardinire4 ,larded ,sweetbreads4 ,second ,course4 ,saddle of ,lamb4 ,tongue4 ,roast ,spring ,vase of ,boiled ,capon4 ,chickens4 ,flowers4 ,ham4 ,boiled ,calf's ,head4 ,third ,course4 ,prawns4 ,leveret1 ,tartlets4 removed by ,ice ,pudding4 ,wine ,jelly4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,straw- ,vase of ,custards in berries and ,cream4 ,flowers4 glasses4 ,blancmange4 ,goslings1 removed by ,cheesecake ,fondues1 in cases4 ,plover's ,eggs4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiih4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,june74 ,,first ,,course4 ,green-,pea ,soup4 ,rice ,soup4 ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,trout la ,genvse4 ,whitebait4 ,,entrees4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,lobster ,rissoles4 ,stewed ,veal and ,peas4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,quarter of ,lamb and ,spinach4 ,filet de ,boeuf la ,jardinire4 ,boiled ,fowls4 ,braised ,shoulder of ,lamb4 ,tongue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,goslings4 ,ducklings4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,charlotte la ,parisienne4 ,gooseberry ,tartlets4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,raspberry-and-,currant ,tart4 ,custards4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #aiii4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,june74 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,salmon ,trout and ,parsley-and-,butter4 ,red ,mullet4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,breast of ,veal and ,peas4 ,mutton ,cutlets la ,maintenon4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb1 garnished with young ,carrots4 ,boiled ,bacon-cheek4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,leveret4 ,gooseberry ,tart4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,strawberry ,tartlets1 ,meringues4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjjj4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,june74 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,trout la ,genvse ,salmon ,cutlets4 ,,entrees4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,peas4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,ribs of ,beef4 ,half ,calf's ,head1 ,tongue1 and ,brains4 ,boiled ,ham4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,compte of ,gooseberries4 ,strawberry ,jelly4 ,pastry4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,cauliflower with ,cream ,sauce4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjja4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,june74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,spring ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,veal ,cutlets and ,endive4 ,ragot of ,duck and ,green ,peas4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,loin of ,veal4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb and ,white ,sauce4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,gooseberry ,tartlets4 ,almond ,pudding4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,,dessert4 #bjjb4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,,june74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,calf's-,head ,soup4 ,mackerel la ,matre d',htel4 ,whitebait4 ,,entrees4 ,chicken ,cutlets4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,,second ,,course4 ,fore-quarter of ,lamb and ,salad4 ,stewed ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,goslings4 ,green-,currant ,tart4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,strawberry ,blancmange4 ,souffl of ,rice4 ,,dessert4 #bjjc4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,,june74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,green-,pea ,soup4 ,baked ,soles aux fines herbes4 ,stewed ,trout4 ,,entrees4 ,calf's ,liver and ,bacon4 ,rissoles4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,saddle of ,lamb and ,salad4 ,calf's ,head la ,tortue4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,strawberries and ,cream4 ,strawberry ,tartlets4 ,lemon ,blancmange4 ,baked ,gooseberry ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #bjjd4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,,june74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,spinach ,soup4 ,soles la ,crme4 ,red ,mullet4 ,,entrees4 ,roast ,fillet of ,veal4 ,braised ,ham and ,spinach4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,white ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,leveret4 ,strawberry ,jelly4 ,swiss ,cream4 ,cheesecakes4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,june4 #bjje4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,salmon trout and parsley-and-butter1 new potatoes4 #b4 ,roast fillet of veal1 boiled bacon-cheek and spinach1 vegetables4 #c4 ,gooseberry tart1 custards4 #bjjf4 ,monday4--#a4 ,light gravy soup4 #b4 ,small meat pie1 minced veal1 garnished with rolled bacon1 spinach and potatoes4 #c4 ,raspberry-and-currant tart4 #bjjg4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,baked mackerel1 potatoes4 #b4 ,boiled leg of lamb1 garnished with young carrots4 #c4 ,lemon pudding4 #bjjh4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup4 #b4 ,calf's liver and bacon1 peas1 hashed lamb from remains of cold joint4 #c4 ,baked gooseberry pudding4 #bjji4 ,thursday--#a4 ,roast ribs of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 peas1 potatoes4 #b4 ,stewed rhubarb and boiled rice4 #bjaj4 ,friday4--#a4 ,cold beef and salad1 lamb cutlets and peas4 #b4 ,boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding4 #bjaa4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak pudding1 broiled beef-bones and cucumber1 vegetables4 #b4 ,bread pudding4 99 99 99 99 99 #bjab4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,roast fore-quarter of lamb1 mint sauce1 peas1 and new potatoes4 #b4 ,gooseberry pudding1 strawberry tartlets4 ,fondue4 #bjac4 ,monday4--#a4 ,cold lamb and salad1 stewed neck of veal and peas1 young carrots1 and new potatoes4 #b4 ,almond pudding4 #bjad4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,green-pea soup4 #b4 ,roast ducks stuffed1 gravy1 peas and new potatoes4 #c4 ,baked ratafia pudding4 #bjae4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast leg of mutton1 summer cabbage1 potatoes4 #b4 ,gooseberry and rice pudding4 #bjaf4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 melted butter1 potatoes4 #b4 ,sweetbreads1 hashed mutton1 vegetables4 #c4 ,bread-and-butter pudding4 #bjag4 ,friday4--#a4 ,asparagus soup4 #b4 ,boiled beef1 young carrots and new potatoes1 suet dumplings4 #c4 ,college puddings4 #bjah4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,cold boiled beef and salad1 lamb cutlets and green peas4 #b4 ,boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream4 ,,july4 #bjai4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,green-,pea ,soup1 removed by ,salmon and dressed ,cucumber4 ,whitebait4 ,vase of ,stewed ,trout ,flowers4 ,soup la ,reine1 removed by ,mackerel la ,maitre d',htel4 ,entres ,lamb ,cutlets and ,peas4 ,lobster ,curry ,vase of ,scollops of en ,casserole4 ,flowers4 ,chickens4 ,chicken ,patties4 ,second ,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,boiled ,capons4 ,vase of ,spring ,chickens4 ,flowers4 ,braised ,ham4 ,saddle of ,lamb4 ,third ,course4 ,prawns4 ,roast ,ducks1 ,custards4 removed by ,vanilla ,souffl4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,cherry ,tart4 ,vase of ,raspberry-and- ,flowers4 ,currant ,tart4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,green ,goose1 removed by ,creams4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,tartlets4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjbj4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,july74 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup la ,jardinire4 ,chicken ,soup4 ,crimped ,salmon and ,parsley-and-,butter4 ,trout aux fines herbes1 in cases4 ,,entrees4 ,tendrons de ,veau and ,peas4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,,second ,,course4 ,loin of ,veal la ,bchamel4 ,roast ,fore-quarter of ,lamb4 ,salad4 ,braised ,ham1 garnished with ,broad ,beans4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,turkey ,poult4 ,stewed ,peas la ,francaise4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,cherry ,tart4 ,raspberry-and-,currant ,tart4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,lemon ,creams4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,marrow ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjba4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,july7 ,,first ,,course4 ,green-,pea ,soup4 ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,crimped ,perch and ,dutch ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,veal and ,peas4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,cucumbers4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,boiled ,fowls la ,bchamel4 ,braised ,ham4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,peas la ,franaise4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,blancmange4 ,cherry ,tart4 ,cheesecakes4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjbb4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,july74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,soup la ,jardinire4 ,salmon ,trout and ,parsley-and-,butter4 ,fillets of ,mackerel la ,matre d',htel4 ,,entrees4 ,lobster ,cutlets4 ,beef ,palates la ,italienne4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,boiled ,capon and ,white ,sauce4 ,boiled ,tongue1 garnished with small ,vegetable ,marrows4 ,bacon and ,beans4 ,,third ,,course4 ,goslings4 ,whipped ,strawberry ,cream4 ,raspberry-and-,currant ,tart4 ,meringues4 ,cherry ,tartlets4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjbc4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,july74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,crimped ,salmon and ,caper ,sauce4 ,whitebait4 ,,entrees4 ,croquettes la ,reine4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,lamb4 ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,,third ,,course4 ,larded ,turkey ,poult4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,cherry ,tart4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,gteaux la ,genvse4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,july4 #bjbd4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,salmon trout and parsley-and-butter4 #b4 ,roast fillet of real1 boiled bacon-cheek1 peas1 potatoes4 #c4 ,raspberry-and-currant tart1 baked custard pudding4 #bjbe4 ,monday4--#a4 ,green-pea soup4 #b4 ,roast fowls garnished with water-cresses2 gravy1 bread sauce2 cold veal and salad4 #c4 ,cherry tart4 #bjbf4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,john dory and lobster sauce4 #b4 ,curried fowl with remains of cold fowls1 dish of rice1 veal rolls with remains of cold fillet4 #c4 ,strawberry cream4 #bjbg4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast leg of mutton1 vegetable marrow1 and potatoes1 melted butter4 #b4 ,black-currant pudding4 #bjbh4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 anchovy sauce4 #b4 ,mutton cutlets and tomato sauce1 bashed mutton1 peas1 potatoes4 #c4 ,lemon dumplings4 #bjbi4 ,friday4--#a4 ,boiled brisket of beef1 carrots1 turnips1 suet dumplings1 peas1 potatoes4 #b4 ,baked semolina pudding4 #bjcj4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,cold beef and salad1 lamb cutlets and peas4 #b4 ,rolled jam pudding4 99 99 99 99 99 #bjca4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,julienne soup4 #b4 ,roast lamb1 half calf's head1 tongue and brains1 boiled ham1 peas and potatoes4 #c4 ,cherry tart1 custards4 #bjcb4 ,monday4--#a4 ,hashed calf's head1 cold lamb and salad4 #b4 ,vegetable marrow and white sauce1 instead of pudding4 #bjcc4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,stewed veal1 with peas1 young carrots1 and potatoes4 ,small meat pie4 #b4 ,raspberry-and-currant pudding4 #bjcd4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast ducks stuffed1 gravy1 peas1 and potatoes2 the remains of stewed veal rechauff4 #b4 ,macaroni served as a sweet pudding4 #bjce4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,slices of salmon and caper sauce4 #b4 ,boiled knuckle of veal1 parsley-and-butter1 vegetable marrow and potatoes4 #c4 ,black-currant pudding4 #bjcf4 ,friday4--#a4 ,roast shoulder of mutton1 onion sauce1 peas and potatoes4 #b4 ,cherry tart1 baked custard pudding4 #bjcg4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,minced mutton1 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding4 #b4 ,baked lemon pudding4 ,,august4 #bjch4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,mock-,turtle ,soup1 removed by ,broiled ,salmon and ,caper ,sauce4 ,red ,mullet4 ,vase of ,perch4 ,flowers4 ,soup la ,julienne1 removed by ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,entres4 ,fricandeau de ,veau la ,jardinire4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,vase of ,lamb ,cutlets la ,pure ,flowers4 de ,pommes de ,terre4 ,fillets of ,ducks and ,peas4 ,second ,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,ham1 garnished4 ,capon la ,vase of ,roast ,fowl4 ,financire ,flowers4 ,leveret ,pie4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,third ,course4 ,grouse1 removed by ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,cheesecakes4 ,charlotte la ,vase of ,custards4 ,vanille4 ,flowers4 ,raspberry ,vol-au-,vent ,prawns4 ,tartlets4 of ,pears4 ,larded ,peahen1 removed by ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjci4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,august7 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,boiled ,salmon4 ,fried ,flounders4 ,trout en ,matelot4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,pigeons4 ,sweetbreads4 ,ragot of ,ducks4 ,fillets of ,chickens and ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,quarter of ,lamb4 ,cotelette de ,boeuf la ,jardinire4 ,roast ,fowls and ,boiled ,tongue4 ,bacon and ,beans4 ,,third ,,course4 ,grouse4 ,wheatears4 ,greengage ,tart4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,plums4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,desserts ,,and ,,ices4 #bjdj4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,august74 ,,first ,,course4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,fillets of ,turbot and ,dutch ,sauce4 ,red ,mullet4 ,,entrees4 ,riz de ,veau aux ,tomates4 ,fillets of ,ducks and ,peas4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,boiled ,capon and ,oysters4 ,ham1 garnished4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,leveret4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,compote of ,greengages4 ,plum ,tart4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,omelette souffl4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjda4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,august74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,macaroni ,soup4 ,crimped ,salmon and ,sauce ,hollandaise4 ,fried ,fillets of ,trout4 ,,entrees4 ,tendrons de ,veau and ,stewed ,peas4 ,salmi of ,grouse4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,loin of ,veal4 ,boiled ,bacon1 garnished with ,french ,beans4 ,stewed ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,turkey ,poult4 ,plum ,tart4 ,custard ,pudding4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,pears4 ,strawberry ,cream4 ,ratafia ,souffl4 ,,dessert4 #bjdb4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,august74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vegetable-,marrow ,soup4 ,stowed ,mullet4 ,fillets of ,salmon and ,ravigotte ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,fricandeau de ,veau la ,jardinire4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,stewed ,shoulder of ,veal1 garnished with ,forcemeat ,balls4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,grouse and ,bread ,sauce4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,greengages4 ,fruit ,jolly4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,custards4 ,fig ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,august4 #bjdc4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,vegetable-marrow soup4 #b4 ,roast quarter of lamb1 mint sauce1 ,french beans and potatoes4 #c4 ,raspberry-and-currant tart1 custard pudding4 #bjdd4 ,monday4--#a4 ,cold lamb and salad1 small meat pie1 vegetable marrow and white sauce4 #b4 ,lemon dumplings4 #bjde4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,boiled mackerel4 #b4 ,stewed loin of veal1 ,french beans and potatoes4 #c4 ,baked raspberry pudding4 #bjdf4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup4 #b4 ,lamb cutlets and ,french beans2 the remains of stewed shoulder of veal1 mashed vegetable marrow4 #c4 ,black-currant pudding4 #bjdg4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,roast ribs of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 ,french beans and potatoes4 #b4 ,bread-and-butter pudding4 #bjdh4 ,friday4--#a4 ,fried soles and melted butter4 #b4 ,cold beef and salad1 lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,cauliflowers and white sauce instead of pudding4 #bjdi4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,stewed beef and vegetables1 with remains of cold beef2 mutton pudding4 #b4 ,macaroni and cheese4 99 99 99 99 99 #bjej4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,salmon pudding4 #b4 ,roast fillet of veal1 boiled bacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers1 ,french beans and potatoes4 #c4 ,plum tart1 boiled custard pudding4 #bjea4 ,monday4--#a4 ,baked soles4 #b4 ,cold veal and bacon1 salad1 mutton cutlets and tomato sauce4 #c4 ,boiled currant pudding4 #bjeb4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,rice soup4 #b4 ,roast fowls and water-cresses1 boiled knuckle of ham1 minced veal garnished with croutons2 vegetables4 #c4 ,college puddings4 #bjec4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,curried fowl with remains of cold fowl2 dish of rice1 stewed rump-steak and vegetables4 #b4 ,plum tart4 #bjed4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,boiled brisket of beef1 carrots1 turnips1 suet dumplings1 and potatoes4 #b4 ,baked bread pudding4 #bjee4 ,friday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup1 made from liquor that beef was boiled in4 #b4 ,cold beef and dressed cucumber1 veal cutlets and tomato sauce4 #c4 ,fondue4 #bjef4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,bubble-and-squeak1 made from remains of cold beef2 cold veal-and-ham pie1 salad4 #b4 ,baked raspberry pudding4 ,,september4 #bjeg4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,julienne ,soup1 removed by ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,red ,mullet ,vase of ,fried ,eels4 ,italian ,sauce4 ,flowers4 ,giblet ,soup1 removed by ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,entres4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,french ,beans4 ,fillets of ,chicken ,vase of ,oysters au gratin4 and ,truffles4 ,flowers4 ,sweetbreads and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,second ,course4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,veal-and-,ham ,pie4 ,chickens la ,vase of ,braised ,goose4 ,bchamel4 ,flowers4 ,broiled ,ham1 garnished with ,cauliflowers4 ,filet of ,veal4 ,third ,course4 ,custards4 ,partridges1 ,apple ,tart4 removed by ,plum-pudding4 ,compte of ,greengages4 ,noyeau ,jelly4 ,vase of ,lemon ,cream4 ,flowers4 ,pastry ,sandwiches4 ,grouse ,bread ,sauce1 removed by ,plum ,tart4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,custards4 ,,desserts ,,and ,,ices4 #bjeh4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,september74 ,,first ,,course4 ,mock-,turtle ,soup4 ,soup la ,jardinire ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,whitings4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,veal ,cutlets4 ,scalloped ,oysters4 ,curried ,fowl4 ,grilled ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,calf's ,head la ,bchamel4 ,braised ,ham4 ,roast ,fowls aux ,cressons4 ,,third ,,course4 ,leveret4 ,grouse4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,compte of ,plumbs4 ,damson ,tart4 ,cream4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,prawns4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,,desserts ,,and ,,ices4 #bjei4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,september74 ,,first ,,course4 ,flemish ,soup4 ,turbot1 garnished with ,fried ,smelts4 ,red ,mullet and ,italian ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,tendrons de ,veau and ,truffles4 ,lamb ,cutlets and ,sauce ,piquante4 ,,second ,,course4 ,loin of ,veal la ,bchamel4 ,roast ,haunch of ,venison4 ,braised ,ham4 ,grouse ,pie4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,hare4 ,plum ,tart4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,punch ,jelly4 ,compte of ,damsons4 ,marrow ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #bjfj4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,september74 ,,first ,,course4 ,game ,soup4 ,crimped ,skate4 ,slices of ,salmon a la ,genvse4 ,,entrees4 ,fricasseed ,sweetbreads4 ,savoury ,rissoles4 ,,second ,,course4 ,sirloin of ,beef and ,horseradish ,sauce4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton and ,caper ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,partridges4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,apricots and ,rice4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #bjfa4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,september74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,thick ,gravy ,soup4 ,fillets of ,turbot la ,crme4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,lobster4 ,salmi of ,grouse4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,venison4 ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,hare1 boned and larded1 with ,mushrooms4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,grouse4 ,apricot ,blancmange4 ,compte of peaches4 ,plum ,tart4 ,custards4 ,plum-pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,september4 #bjfb4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,julienne soup4 #b4 ,roast ribs of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 horseradish sauce1 ,french beans1 and potatoes4 #c4 ,greengage pudding1 vanilla cream4 #bjfc4 ,monday4--#a4 ,crimped skate and crab sauce4 #b4 ,cold beef and salad2 small veal-and-ham pie4 #c4 ,vegetable marrow and white sauce4 #bjfd4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,fried solos1 melted butter4 #b4 ,boiled fowls1 parsley-and-butter2 bacon-check1 garnished with ,french beans2 beef rissoles1 made from remains of cold beef4 #c4 ,plum tart and cream4 #bjfe4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled round of beef1 carrots1 turnips1 and suet dumplings2 marrow on toast4 #b4 ,baked damsons and rice4 #bjff4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup1 made from liquor that beef was boiled in4 #b4 ,lamb cutlets and cucumbers1 cold beef and salad4 #c4 ,apple pudding4 #bjfg4 ,friday4--#a4 ,baked soles4 #b4 ,bubble-and-squeak1 made from cold beef2 veal cutlets and rolled bacon4 #c4 ,damson tart4 #bjfh4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,irish stew1 rump-steaks and oyster sauce4 #b4 ,somersetshire dumplings4 99 99 99 99 99 #bjfi4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce4 #b4 ,roast leg of mutton1 brown onion sauce1 ,french beans1 and potatoes2 half calf's head1 tongue1 and brains4 #c4 ,plum tart2 custards1 in glasses4 #bjgj4 ,monday4--#a4 ,vegetable-marrow soup4 #b4 ,calf's head la maitre d'htel1 from remains of cold head2 boiled brisket of beef and vegetables4 #c4 ,stewed fruit and baked rice pudding4 #ajga4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,roast fowls and water-cresses2 boiled bacon1 garnished with tufts of cauliflower2 hashed mutton1 from remains of mutton of ,sunday4 #b4 ,baked plum-pudding4 #bjgb4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled knuckle of veal and rice1 turnips1 potatoes2 small ham1 garnished with ,french beans4 #b4 ,baked apple pudding4 #bjgc4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,brill and shrimp sauce4 #b4 ,roast hare1 gravy1 and red-currant jelly2 mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,scalloped oysters1 instead of pudding4 #bjgd4 ,friday4--#a4 ,small roast loin of mutton2 the remains of hare1 jugged2 vegetable marrow and potatoes4 #b4 ,damson pudding4 #bjge4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steaks1 broiled1 and oyster sauce1 mashed potatoes2 veal-and-ham pie1--the ham may be cut from that boiled on ,wednesday1 if not all eaten cold for breakfast4 #b1 ,lemon pudding4 ,,october4 #bjgf4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course ,mock-,turtle ,soup1 removed by ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,soles la ,vase of ,red ,mullet4 ,normandie4 ,flowers4 ,julienne ,soup1 removed by ,john ,dory and ,dutch ,sauce4 ,entres ,sweetbreads and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,vase of ,stewed ,mushrooms4 ,flowers4 ,fricandeau de ,veau and ,celery ,sauce4 ,second ,course4 ,roast ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,grouse ,pie4 ,roast ,goose4 ,vase of ,boiled ,fowls and ,flowers4 ,oyster ,sauce4 ,ham4 ,larded ,turkey4 ,third ,course4 ,custards4 ,pheasants1 ,prawns4 removed by ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,italian ,cream4 ,gteau de ,vase of ,compte of ,pommes4 ,flowers4 ,plums4 ,peach ,jelly4 ,roast ,hare1 removed by ,lobster ,salad4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,apple ,tart4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjgg4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,,october74 ,,first ,,course4 ,carrot ,soup la ,crci4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,baked ,cod4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,riz de ,veau and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,chicken4 ,pork ,cutlets and ,sauce ,robert4 ,grilled ,mushrooms4 ,,second ,,course4 ,rump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,roast ,goose4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,celery ,sauce4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,grouse4 ,pheasants4 ,quince ,jelly4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,apple ,tart4 ,compote of ,peaches4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,scalloped ,oysters4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjgh4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,october74 ,,first ,,course4 ,calf's-,head ,soup4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,mutton ,kidneys4 ,curried ,sweetbreads4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton1 garnished with ,carrots and ,turnips4 ,roast ,goose4 ,,third ,,course4 ,partridges4 ,fruit ,jelly4 ,italian ,cream4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,pears4 ,apple ,tart4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjgi4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,october74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,hare ,soup4 ,broiled ,cod la ,matre d',htel4 ,haddocks and ,egg ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,veal ,cutlets1 garnished with ,french ,beans4 ,haricot ,mutton4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,capon and ,rice4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,pheasants4 ,punch ,jelly4 ,blancmange4 ,apples la ,portugaise4 ,charlotte la ,vanille4 ,marrow ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #bjhj4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,october74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,mock-,turtle ,soup4 ,brill and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,fried ,whitings4 ,,entrees4 ,fowl la ,bchamel4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,sucking-,pig4 ,stewed ,hump of ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,grouse4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,coffee ,cream4 ,cheesecakes4 ,apricot ,tart4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,october4 #bjha4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,roast sucking-pig1 tomata sauce and brain sauce2 small boiled leg of mutton1 caper sauce1 turnips1 and carrots4 #b4 ,damson tart1 boiled batter pudding4 #bjhb4 ,monday4--#a4 ,vegetable soup1 made from liquor that mutton was boiled in4 #b4 ,sucking-pig en blanquette1 small meat pie1 ,french beans1 and potatoes4 #c4 ,pudding1 pies4 #bjhc4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,roast partridges1 bread sauce1 and gravy2 slices of mutton warmed in caper sauce2 vegetables4 #b4 ,baked plum-pudding4 #bjhd4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast ribs of beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 vegetable marrow1 and potatoes4 #b4 ,damson pudding4 #bjhe4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,fried soles1 melted butter4 #b4 ,cold beef and salad2 mutton cutlets and tomata sauce4 #c4 ,macaroni4 #bjhf4 ,friday4--#a4 ,carrot soup4 #b4 ,boiled fowls and celery sauce2 bacon-check1 garnished with greens2 beef rissoles1 from remains of cold beef4 #c4 ,baroness pudding4 #bjhg4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,curried fowl1 from remains of cold ditto2 dish of rice1 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding1 vegetables4 #b4 ,stewed pears and sponge cakes4 99 99 99 99 99 #bjhh4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,crimped cod and oyster sauce4 #b4 ,roast haunch of mutton1 brown onion sauce1 and vegetables4 #c4 ,bullace pudding1 baked custards in cups4 #bjhi4 ,monday4--#a4 ,the remains of codfish1 flaked1 and warmed in a matre d'htel sauce4 #b4 ,cold mutton and salad1 veal cutlets and rolled bacon1 ,french beans and potatoes4 #c4 ,arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons4 #bjij4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,roast hare1 gravy1 and red-currant jelly2 hashed mutton1 vegetables4 #b4 ,currant dumplings4 #bjia4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,jugged hare1 from remains of roast ditto2 boiled knuckle of veal and rice2 boiled bacon-cheek4 #b4 ,apple pudding4 #bjib4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,roast leg of pork1 apple sauce1 greens1 and potatoes4 #b4 ,rice snowballs4 #bjic4 ,friday4--#a4 ,slices of pork1 broiled1 and tomata sauce1 mashed potatoes2 roast pheasants1 bread sauce1 and gravy4 #b4 ,baked apple pudding4 #bjid4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak pie1 sweetbreads4 #b4 ,ginger pudding4 ,,november4 #bjie4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,thick ,grouse ,soup1 removed by ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,baked ,whitings4 ,vase of ,fried ,smelts4 ,flowers4 ,clear ,ox-tail ,soup1 removed by ,fillets of ,turbot la ,crme4 ,entres4 ,poulet la ,marengo4 ,fillets of ,leveret4 ,vase of ,ragot of ,lobster4 ,flowers4 ,mushrooms sauts4 ,second ,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,cold ,game ,pie4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,vase of ,roast ,fowls4 ,flowers4 ,boiled ,ham4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,third ,course4 ,apple ,tart4 ,partridges1 ,shell-,fish4 removed by ,plum-pudding4 ,wine ,jelly4 ,pommes la ,vase of ,vol-au-,vent ,cond4 ,flowers4 of ,pears4 ,snipes1 removed by ,prawns4 ,charlotte glace4 ,apricot ,tartlets4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjif4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,november74 ,,first ,,course4 ,hare ,soup4 ,julienne ,soup4 ,baked ,cod4 ,soles la ,normandie4 ,,entrees4 ,riz de ,veau aux ,tomates4 ,lobster ,patties4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,soubise ,sauce4 ,crotades of ,marrow aux fines herbes4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,sirloin of ,beef4 ,braised ,goose4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,celery ,sauce4 ,bacon-cheek1 garnished with ,sprouts4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,partridges4 ,apples la ,portugaise4 ,bavarian ,cream4 ,apricot-jam ,sandwiches4 ,cheesecakes4 ,charlotte la ,vanille4 ,plum-pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjig4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,,november74 ,,first ,,course4 ,mulligatawny ,soup4 ,fried slices of ,codfish and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,eels en ,matelote4 ,,entrees4 ,broiled ,pork ,cutlets and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,tendrons de ,veau la ,jardinire4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton and ,vegetables4 ,roast ,goose4 ,cold ,game ,pie4 ,,third ,,course4 ,snipes4 ,teal4 ,apple ,souffl4 ,iced ,charlotte4 ,tartlets4 ,champagne ,jelly4 ,coffee ,cream4 ,mince ,pies4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #bjih4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,,november74 ,,first ,,course4 ,oyster ,soup4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,fried ,perch and ,dutch ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,pigs' ,feet la ,bchamel4 ,curried ,rabbit4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,sucking-,pig4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,jugged ,hare4 ,meringues la ,crme4 ,apple ,custard4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,pears4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 #bjii4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,,november74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,game ,soup4 ,slices of ,codfish and ,dutch ,sauce4 ,fried ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,kidneys la ,matre d',htel4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,capon and ,rice4 ,small ,ham4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,hare4 ,apple ,tart4 ,pineapple ,cream4 ,clear ,jelly4 ,cheesecakes4 ,marrow ,pudding4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,november4 #bajj4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,white soup4 #b4 ,roast haunch of mutton1 haricot beans1 potatoes4 #c4 ,apple tart1 ginger pudding4 #baja4 ,monday4--#a4 ,stewed eels4 #b4 ,veal cutlets garnished with rolled bacon2 cold mutton and winter salad4 #c4 ,baked rice pudding4 #bajb4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,roast fowls1 garnished with water-cresses2 boiled bacon-cheek2 hashed mutton from remains of haunch4 #b4 ,apple pudding4 #bajc4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled leg of pork1 carrots1 parsnips1 and pease-pudding2 fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl4 #b4 ,baroness pudding4 #bajd4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,cold pork and mashed potatoes2 roast partridges1 bread sauce and gravy4 #b4 ,the remainder of pudding cut into neat slices1 and warmed through1 and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over2 apple fritters4 #baje4 ,friday4--#a4 ,roast hare1 gravy1 and currant jelly2 rump-steak and oyster sauce2 vegetables4 #b4 ,macaroni4 #bajf4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,jugged hare2 small mutton pudding4 #b4 ,fig pudding4 99 99 99 99 99 #bajg4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,crimped cod and oyster sauce4 #b4 ,roast fowls1 small boiled ham1 vegetables2 rump-steak pie4 #c4 ,baked apple pudding1 open jam tart4 #bajh4 ,monday4--#a4 ,the remainder of cod warmed in matre d'htel sauce4 #b4 ,boiled aitchbone of beef1 carrots1 parsnips1 suet dumplings4 #c4 ,baked bread-and-butter pudding4 #baji4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,pea-soup1 made from liquor in which beef was boiled4 #b4 ,cold beef1 mashed potatoes2 mutton cutlets and tomata sauce4 #c4 ,carrot pudding4 #baaj4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,fried soles and melted butter4 #b4 ,roast leg of pork1 apple sauce1 vegetables4 #c4 ,macaroni with ,parmesan cheese4 #baaa4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef2 curried pork4 #b4 ,baked ,semolina pudding4 #baab4 ,friday4--#a4 ,roast leg of mutton1 stewed ,spanish onions1 potatoes4 #b4 ,apple tart4 #baac4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,hashed mutton2 boiled rabbit and onion sauce2 vegetables4 #b4 ,damson pudding made with bottled fruit4 ,,december4 #baad4--;,,dinner ,,for #ah ,,persons4 ,first ,course4 ,mock-,turtle ,soup1 removed by ,cod's ,head and ,shoulders and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,vase of ,fried ,whitings4 ,flowers4 ,julienne ,soup1 removed by ,soles aux fines herbes4 ,entres4 ,fillets of ,grouse and ,sauce ,piquante4 ,curried ,lobster4 ,vase of ,mutton ,cutlets and ,flowers4 ,soubise ,sauce4 ,sweetbreads4 ,second ,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,ham and ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,roast ,goose4 ,vase of ,stewed ,beef la ,flowers4 ,jardinire4 ,game ,pie4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,third ,course4 ,apricot ,torte4 ,pheasants1 ,victoria removed by ,sandwiches4 ,plum-pudding4 ,vanilla ,cream4 ,lemon ,jelly4 ,vase of ,champagne ,jelly4 ,flowers4 ,blancmange4 ,wild ,ducks1 removed by ,tipsy ,cake4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,mince ,pies4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #baae4--;,,dinner ,,for #ab ,,persons 7,december74 ,,first ,,course4 ,game ,soup4 ,clear ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,codfish au gratin4 ,fillets of ,whitings la ,matre d',htel4 ,,entrees4 ,filet de ,boeuf and ,sauce ,piquante4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,curried ,rabbit4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,turkey and ,sausages4 ,boiled ,leg of ,pork and ,vegetables4 ,roast ,goose4 ,stewed ,beef la ,jardinire4 ,,third ,,course4 ,widgeon4 ,partridges4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,mince ,pies4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,apple ,tart4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #baaf4--;,,dinner ,,for #aj ,,persons 7,december74 ,,first ,,course4 ,mulligatawny ,soup4 ,fried ,slices of ,codfish4 ,soles la ,crme4 ,,entrees4 ,croquettes of ,fowl4 ,pork ,cutlets and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,ribs of ,beef4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,roast ,hare4 ,grouse4 ,plum-pudding4 ,mince ,pies4 ,charlotte la ,parisienne4 ,cheesecakes4 ,apple ,tart4 ,nesselrode ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #baag4--;,,dinner ,,for #h ,,persons 7,december74 ,,first ,,course4 ,carrot ,soup4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,baked ,soles4 ,,entrees4 ,mutton ,kidneys la ,franaise4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,boiled ,beef and ,vegetables4 ,marrow-bones4 ,roast ,fowls and ,water-cresses ,tongue1 garnished4 ,game ,pie4 ,,third ,,course4 ,partridges4 ,blancmange4 ,compte of ,apples4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,pears4 ,almond ,cheesecakes4 ,lemon ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 #baah4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,december74--,i4 ,,first ,,course4 ,rabbit ,soup4 ,brill and ,shrimp ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,curried ,fowl4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,turkey and ,sausages4 ,boiled ,leg of ,pork4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,hunters' ,pudding4 ,lemon ,cheesecakes4 ,apple ,tart4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,,dessert4 #baai4--;,,dinner ,,for1 #f ,,persons 7,december74--,,ii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,ox-tail ,soup4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,,entrees4 ,savoury ,rissoles4 ,fowl ,scollops la ,bchamel4 ,,second ,,course4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,boiled ,chickens and ,celery ,sauce4 ,bacon-cheek1 garnished with ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,snipes4 ,orange ,jelly4 ,cheesecakes4 ,apples la ,portugaise4 ,apricot-jam ,tartlets4 ,souffl of ,rice4 ,,dessert4 #babj4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,december74--,,iii4 ,,first ,,course4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,soles la ,matre d',htel4 ,fried ,eels4 ,,entrees4 ,pork ,cutlets and ,tomato ,sauce4 ,ragot of ,mutton la ,jardinire4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,goose4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton and ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,pheasants4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,meringues4 ,compte of ,normandy ,pippins4 ,mince ,pies4 ,plum-pudding4 ,dessert4 #baba4--;,,dinner ,,for #f ,,persons 7,december74--,,iv4 ,,first ,,course4 ,carrot ,soup4 ,baked ,cod4 ,fried ,smelts4 ,,entrees4 ,stewed ,rump-steak la ,jardinire4 ,fricasseed ,chicken4 ,,second ,,course4 ,roast ,leg of ,mutton1 boned and stuffed4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,vegetables4 ,,third ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks4 ,fancy ,pastry4 ,lemon ,cream4 ,damson ,tart1 with bottled fruit4 ,custards1 in glasses4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,dessert4 ,,plain ,,family ,,dinners ,,for ,,december4 #babb4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,carrot soup4 #b4 ,roast beef1 horseradish sauce1 vegetables4 #c4 ,plum-pudding1 mince pies4 #babc4 ,monday4--#a4 ,fried whitings1 melted butter4 #b4 ,rabbit pie1 cold beef1 mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed2 apple tart4 #babd4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,hashed beef and broiled bones1 pork cutlets and tomata sauce2 vegetables4 #b4 ,baked lemon pudding4 #babe4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,boiled neck of mutton and vegetables2 the broth served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it #b4 ,bakewell pudding4 #babf4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,roast leg of pork1 apple sauce1 vegetables4 #b4 ,rice snowballs4 #babg4 ,friday4--#a4 ,soles la ,crime4 #b4 ,cold pork and mashed potatoes1 broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce4 #c4 ,rolled jam pudding4 #babh4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,the remains of cold pork curried1 dish of rice1 mutton cutlets1 and mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,baked apple dumplings4 99 99 99 99 99 #babi4 ,sunday4--#a4 ,roast turkey and sausages1 boiled leg of pork1 pease pudding1 vegetables4 #b4 ,baked apple pudding1 mince pies4 #bacj4 ,monday4--#a4 ,hashed turkey1 cold pork1 mashed potatoes4 #b4 ,mince-meat pudding4 #baca4 ,tuesday4--#a4 ,pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled4 #b4 ,boiled fowls and celery sauce1 vegetables4 #c4 ,baked rice pudding4 #bacb4 ,wednesday4--#a4 ,roast leg of mutton1 stewed ,spanish onions1 potatoes4 #b4 ,baked rolled jam pudding4 #bacc4 ,thursday4--#a4 ,baked cod's head4 #b4 ,cold mutton1 roast hare1 gravy and red-currant jelly4 #c4 ,macaroni4 #bacd4 ,friday4--#a4 ,hare soup1 made with stock and remains of roast hare4 #b4 ,hashed mutton1 pork cutlets1 and mashed potatoes4 #c4 ,open tarts1 rice blancmange4 #bace4 ,saturday4--#a4 ,rump-steak-and-kidney pudding1 vegetables4 #b4 ,mince pies1 baked apple dumplings4 #bacf4--;,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,a ,,game ,,dinner ,,for #cj ,,persons 7,november74 ,first course4 ,hare ,soup4 ,pure of ,grouse4 ,vase of ,pheasant ,soup4 ,flowers4 ,soup la ,reine4 ,entres4 ,salmi of ,fillets of ,hare ,salmi of ,widgeon4 en ,chevereuil4 ,woodcock4 ,perdrixaux ,choux4 ,lark ,pudding4 ,vase of ,game ,patties4 ,flowers4 ,curried ,rabbit4 ,salmi of ,fillet of ,pheasant ,salmi of ,woodcock4 and ,truffles4 ,widgeon4 ,second ,course4 ,larded ,pheasants4 ,leveret1 larded and stuffed4 ,cold ,pheasant ,pie ,vase of ,hot raised ,pie of la ,prigord4 ,flowers4 mixed ,game4 ,grouse4 ,larded ,partridges4 ,third ,course4 ,snipes4 ,pintails4 ,ortolans4 ,quails4 ,golden ,vase of ,widgeon4 ,plovers4 ,flowers4 ,teal4 ,wild ,duck4 ,woodcock4 ,snipes4 ,entremets and ,removes4 ,apricot ,boudin la ,nesselrode4 ,maids of ,tart4 ,honour4 ,dantzic ,jelly4 ,vol-au-,vent ,vase of ,gteau4 of ,pears4 ,flowers4 ,gnoise glac4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,maids of ,plum ,pudding4 ,compte of ,honour4 ,apples4 ,dessert4 ,olives4 ,strawberry-,ice ,figs4 ,cream4 ,preserved ,pineapples4 ,dried ,cherries4 ,fruit4 ,grapes4 ,filberts4 ,pears4 ,walnuts4 ,wafers4 ,biscuits4 ,ginger-,ice ,cream4 ,vase of ,orange-,water ,ice4 ,flowers4 ,apples4 ,dried ,grapes4 ,preserved ,fruit4 ,cherries4 ,pears4 ,figs4 ,lemon-,water ,ice4 ,olives4 ,,menu4 #bacg4--,,service ,a ,,la ,,russe 7,july74 ,julienne ,soup4 ,vermicelli ,soup4 ,boiled ,salmon4 ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,soles-,water ,souchy4 ,perch-,water ,souchy4 ,matelote d',anguilles la ,toulouse4 ,filets de ,soles la ,normandie4 ,red ,mullet4 ,trout4 ,lobster ,rissoles4 ,whitebait4 ,riz de ,veau la ,banquire4 ,filets de ,poulets aux ,coucombres4 ,canards la ,rouennaise4 ,mutton ,cutlets la ,jardinire4 ,braised ,beef la ,flamande4 ,spring ,chickens4 ,roast ,quarter of ,lamb4 ,roast ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,tongue4 ,ham and ,peas4 ,quails1 larded4 ,roast ,ducks4 ,turkey ,poult1 larded4 ,mayonnaise of ,chicken4 ,tomatas4 ,green ,peas la ,franaise4 ,sudoise of ,strawberries4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,compte of ,cherries4 ,neapolitan ,cakes4 ,pastry4 ,madeira ,wine ,jelly4 ,iced ,pudding la ,nesselrode4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 ,note4--,dinners la ,russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of serving the various dishes4 ,in a dinner la ,russe1 the dishes are cut up on a sideboard1 and handed round to the guests1 and each dish may be considered a course4 ,the table for a dinner la ,russe should be laid with flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle1 together with some of the dessert dishes4 ,a menu or bill of fare should be laid by the side of each guest4 ,,menu4 #bach4--,,service ,a ,,la ,,russe 7,november74 ,ox-tail ,soup4 ,soup la ,jardinire4 ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce4 ,crimped ,cod and ,oyster ,sauce4 ,stewed ,eels4 ,soles la ,normandie4 ,pike and ,cream ,sauce4 ,fried ,filleted ,soles4 ,filets de ,boeuf la ,jardinire4 ,croquettes of ,game aux ,champignons4 ,chicken ,cutlets4 ,mutton ,cutlets and ,tomata ,sauce4 ,lobster ,rissoles4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,partridges aux fines herbes4 ,larded ,sweetbreads4 ,roast ,beef4 ,poulets aux ,cressons4 ,haunch of ,mutton4 ,roast ,turkey4 ,boiled ,turkey and ,celery ,sauce4 ,ham4 ,grouse4 ,pheasants4 ,hare4 ,salad4 ,artichokes4 ,stewed ,celery4 ,italian ,cream4 ,charlotte aux ,pommes4 ,compte of ,pears4 ,crotes madres aux ,fruits4 ,pastry4 ,punch ,jelly4 ,iced ,pudding4 ,,dessert ,,and ,,ices4 ,note4--,dinners la ,russe are scarcely suitable for small establishments2 a large number of servants being required to carve2 and to help the guests2 besides there being a necessity for more plates1 dishes1 knives1 forks1 and spoons1 than are usually to be found in any other than a very large establishment4 ,where1 however1 a service la ,russe is practicable1 there it1 perhaps1 no mode of serving a dinner so enjoyable as this4 ,,suppers4 #baci4 ,much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table1 at a very small expense1 provided taste and ingenuity are exercised4 ,the colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely2 there should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table1 and the room should be well lighted4 ,we have endeavoured to show how the various dishes may be placed2 but of course these little matters entirely depend on the length and width of the table used1 on individual taste1 whether the tables are arranged round the room1 whether down the centre1 with a cross one at the top1 or whether the supper is laid in two separate rooms1 c4 c4 ,the garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with the appearance of a supper-table4 ,hams and tongues should be ornamented with cut vegetable flowers1 raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice1 and all the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking absurd4 ,the eye1 in fact1 should be as much gratified as the palate4 ,hot soup is now often served at suppers1 but is not placed on the table4 ,the servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet1 and then hand them to the guests3 when these plates are removed1 the business of supper commences4 #badj4 ,where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing supper1 many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be placed on the buffet4 ,dishes for these suppers should be selected which may be eaten standing without any trouble4 ,the following list may1 perhaps1 assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a standing supper4 #bada4 ,beef1 ham1 and tongue sandwiches1 lobster and oyster patties1 sausage rolls1 meat rolls1 lobster salad1 dishes of fowls1 the latter all cut up2 dishes of sliced ham1 sliced tongue1 sliced beef1 and galantine of veal2 various jellies1 blancmanges1 and creams2 custards in glasses1 comptes of fruit1 tartlets of jam1 and several dishes of small fancy pastry2 dishes of fresh fruit1 bonbons1 sweetmeats1 two or three sponge cakes1 a few plates of biscuits1 and the buffet ornamented with vases of fresh or artificial flowers4 ,the above dishes are quite sufficient for a standing supper2 where more are desired1 a supper must then be laid and arranged in the usual manner4 #badb4--;,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,a ,,ball ,,supper ,,for #fj ,,persons 7,for ,winter7 ,boar's ,head1 garnished with ,aspic ,jelly4 ,lobster ,salad ,lobster ,salad4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,mayonnaise of ,fowl4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,small ,ham1 garnished4 ,small ,pastry4 ,iced ,savoy ,cake4 ,biscuits4 ,vanilla ,cream ,,epergne1 ,,with ,,fruit4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,two ,roast ,fowls1 cut up4 ,two ,roast ,fowls1 cut up4 ,prawns ,two ,boiled ,fowls1 with ,bchamel ,prawns ,sauce4 ,biscuits ,small ,pastry ,tongue1 ornamented4 ,custards1 ,,trifle1 ,,ornamented4 ,custards1 in glasses4 in glasses4 ,raised ,chicken ,pie4 ,tipsy ,cake ,lobster ,salad4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,swiss ,cream4 ,roast ,pheasant4 ,meringues4 ,,epergne1 ,,with ,,fruit4 ,meringues4 ,raspberry ,cream4 ,galantine of ,veal4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,tipsy ,cake4 ,small ,pastry4 ,biscuits4 ,raised ,game ,pie4 ,custards1 ,,trifle1 ,,ornamented ,custards1 in glasses4 in glasses4 ,two ,roast ,fowls1 cut up4 ,two ,roast ,fowls1 cut up4 ,tongue1 ornamented4 ,prawns4 ,prawns4 ,two ,boiled ,fowls1 with ,bchamel ,sauce4 ,biscuits4 ,small ,pastry4 ,,epergne1 ,,with ,,fruit4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,iced ,savoy ,cake4 ,blancmange4 ,small ,ham1 garnished4 ,mayonnaise of ,fowl4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,fruited ,jelly4 ,larded ,capon4 ,note3 ,when soup is served from the buffet1 ,mock ,turtle and ,julienne may be selected4 ,besides the articles enumerated above1 ,ices1 ,wafers1 ,biscuits1 ,tea1 ,coffee1 ,wines and ,liqueurs will be required4 ,punch a la ,romaine may also be added to the list of beverages4 #badc4--;,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,a ,,ball ,,supper1 ,or a ,cold ,collation for a ,summer ,entertainment1 or ,wedding or ,christening ,breakfast for #gj or #hj ,persons 7,july74 ,illustration3 ,containing the following-- ,columns #a and #e #d ,blancmanges1 to be placed down the table4 #d ,jellies1 to be placed down the table4 #c ,dishes of ,small ,pastry4 #c ,fruit ,tarts4 #c ,cheesecakes4 #c ,compotes of ,fruit4 #c ,english ,pines4 #bj ,small ,dishes of various ,summer ,fruits4 ,column #b ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,charlotte ,russe la ,vanille4 ,lobster ,salad ,pigeon ,pie4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,larded ,capon4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,savoy ,cake4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,column #c ,tongue4 ,ribs of ,lamb4 ,two ,roast ,fowls4 ,mayonnaise of ,salmon4 ,epergne1 with ,flowers4 ,mayonnaise of ,trout4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,bchamel ,sauce4 ,collared ,eel4 ,ham4 ,raised ,pie4 ,two ,roast ,fowls4 ,shoulder of ,lamb1 stuffed4 ,mayonnaise of ,salmon4 ,epergne1 with ,flowers4 ,mayonnaise of ,trout4 ,tongue4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,bchamel ,sauce4 ,raised ,pie4 ,ham1 decorated4 ,shoulder of ,lamb1 stuffed4 ,two ,roast ,fowls4 ,mayonnaise of ,salmon4 ,epergne1 with ,flowers4 ,mayonnaise of ,trout4 ,tongue1 garnished4 ,boiled ,fowls and ,bchamel ,sauce4 ,collared ,eel4 ,column #d ,veal-and-,ham ,pie4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,savoy ,cake4 ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,boar's ,head4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,charlotte ,russe la ,vanille4 ,veal and ,ham ,pie4 ,dish of ,lobster1 cut up4 ,note4--,the length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes as they should be placed on the table2 they should be arranged with the large and high dishes down the centre1 and the spaces filled up with the smaller dishes1 fruit1 and flowers1 taking care that the flavours and colours contrast nicely1 and that no two dishes of a sort come together4 ,this bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes1 placing a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand1 if required for either of these occasions4 ,a few dishes of fowls1 lobster salads1 c4 c41 should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are most likely to be eaten first4 ,a joint of cold roast and boiled beef should be placed on the buffet1 as being something substantial for the gentlemen of the party to partake of4 ,besides the articles enumerated in the bill of fare1 biscuits and wafers will be required1 cream-and-water ices1 tea1 coffee1 wines1 liqueurs1 soda-water1 ginger-beer1 and lemonade4 ,,breakfasts4 #badd4 ,it will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of cold joints1 c41 which may be placed on the side-board1 and do duty at the breakfast-table4 ,suffice it to say1 that any cold meat the larder may furnish1 should be nicely garnished1 and be placed on the buffet4 ,collared and potted meats or fish1 cold game or poultry1 veal-and-ham pies1 game-and-,rump-steak pies1 are all suitable dishes for the breakfast-table2 as also cold ham1 tongue1 c4 c4 #bade4 ,the following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast4 ,broiled fish1 such as mackerel1 whiting1 herrings1 dried haddocks1 c42 mutton chops and rump-steaks1 broiled sheep's kidneys1 kidneys la matre d'htel1 sausages1 plain rashers of bacon1 bacon and poached eggs1 ham and poached eggs1 omelets1 plain boiled eggs1 oeufs-au-plat1 poached eggs on toast1 muffins1 toast1 marmalade1 butter1 c4 c4 #badf4 ,in the summer1 and when they are obtainable1 always have a vase of freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table1 and1 when convenient1 a nicely-arranged dish of fruit3 when strawberries are in season1 these are particularly refreshing2 as also grapes1 or even currants4 ,,luncheons ,,and ,,suppers4 #badg4 ,the remains of cold joints1 nicely garnished1 a few sweets1 or a little hashed meat1 poultry or game1 are the usual articles placed on the table for luncheon1 with bread and cheese1 biscuits1 butter1 c4 ,if a substantial meal is desired1 rump-steaks or mutton chops may he served1 as also veal cutlets1 kidneys1 or any dish of that kind4 ,in families where there is a nursery1 the mistress of the house often partakes of the meal with the children1 and makes it her luncheon4 ,in the summer1 a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon1 or1 instead of this1 a compote of fruit or fruit tart1 or pudding4 #badh4 ,of suppers we have little to say1 as we have already given two bills of fare for a large party1 which will answer very well for a smaller number1 by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a few4 ,hot suppers are now very little in request1 as people now generally dine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper2 at all events1 not one of a substantial kind4 ,should1 however1 a bill of fare be required1 one of those under the head of ,,dinners1 with slight alterations1 will be found to answer for a hot supper4 ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,a ,,picnic ,,for #dj ,,persons4 #badi4 ,a joint of cold roast beef1 a joint of cold boiled beef1 #b ribs of lamb1 #b shoulders of lamb1 #d roast fowls1 #b roast ducks1 #a ham1 #a tongue1 #b veal-and-ham pies1 #b pigeon pies1 #f medium-sized lobsters1 #a piece of collared calf's head1 #ah lettuces1 #f baskets of salad1 #f cucumbers4 #baej4 ,stewed fruit well sweetened1 and put into glass bottles well corked2 #c or #d dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit1 #b dozen fruit turnovers1 #d dozen cheesecakes1 #b cold cabinet puddings in moulds1 #b blancmanges in moulds1 a few jam puffs1 #a large cold plum-pudding 7this must be good71 a few baskets of fresh fruit1 #c dozen plain biscuits1 a piece of cheese1 #f lbs4 of butter 7this1 of course1 includes the butter for tea71 #d quartern loaves of household broad1 #c dozen rolls1 #f loaves of tin bread 7for tea71 #b plain plum cakes1 #b pound cakes1 #b sponge cakes1 a tin of mixed biscuits1 #a_/b lb1 of tea4 ,coffee is not suitable for a picnic1 being difficult to make4 ,things not to be forgotten at a ,picnic4 #baea4 ,a stick of horseradish1 a bottle of mint-sauce well corked1 a bottle of salad dressing1 a bottle of vinegar1 made mustard1 pepper1 salt1 good oil1 and pounded sugar4 ,if it can be managed1 take a little ice4 ,it is scarcely necessary to say that plates1 tumblers1 wine-glasses1 knives1 forks1 and spoons1 must not be forgotten2 as also teacups and saucers1 #c or #d teapots1 some lump sugar1 and milk1 if this last-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood4 ,take #c corkscrews4 #baeb4 ,beverages4--#c dozen quart bottles of ale1 packed in hampers2 ginger-beer1 soda-water1 and lemonade1 of each #b dozen bottles2 #f bottles of sherry1 #f bottles of claret1 champagne discrtion1 and any other light wine that may be preferred1 and #b bottles of brandy4 ,water can usually be obtained so it is useless to take it4 ,,domestic ,,servants4 ,,chapter ,,xli4 #baec4 ,it is the custom of ,society to abuse its servants1--a faon de parler1 such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather1 and1 when rurally inclined1 of the crops1--leads matronly ladies1 and ladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable state1 to talk of servants1 and1 as we are told1 wax eloquent over the greatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea4 ,young men at their clubs1 also1 we are told1 like to abuse their fellows1 perhaps not without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity of intimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state4 ,it is another conviction of ,society that the race of good servants has died out1 at least in ,england1 although they do order these things better in ,france2 that there is neither honesty1 conscientiousness1 nor the careful and industrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers2 that domestics no longer know their place2 that the introduction of cheap silks and cottons1 and1 still more recently1 those ambiguous materials and tweeds1 have removed the landmarks between the mistress and her maid1 between the master and his man4 #baed4 ,when the distinction really depends on things so insignificant1 this is very probably the case2 when the lady of fashion chooses her footman without any other consideration than his height1 shape1 and tournure of his calf1 it is not surprising that she should find a domestic who has no attachment for the family1 who considers the figure he cuts behind her carriage1 and the late hours he is compelled to keep1 a full compensation for the wages he exacts1 for the food he wastes1 and for the perquisites he can lay his hands on4 ,nor should the fast young man1 who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turf and in the tricks of low horse-dealers1 be surprised if he is sometimes the victim of these learned ways4 ,but these are the exceptional cases1 which prove the existence of a better state of things4 ,the great masses of society among us are not thus deserted2 there are few families of respectability1 from the shopkeeper in the next street to the nobleman whose mansion dignifies the next square1 which do not contain among their dependents attached and useful servants2 and where these are absent altogether1 there are good reasons for it4 ,the sensible master and the kind mistress know1 that if servants depend on them for their means of living1 in their turn they are dependent on their servants for very many of the comforts of life2 and that1 with a proper amount of care in choosing servants1 and treating them like reasonable beings1 and making slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature1 they will1 save in some exceptional case1 be tolerably well served1 and1 in most instances1 surround themselves with attached domestics4 #baee4 ,this remark1 which is applicable to all domestics1 is especially so to men-servants4 ,families accustomed to such attendants have always about them humble dependents1 whose children have no other prospect than domestic service to look forward to2 to them it presents no degradation1 but the reverse1 to be so employed2 they are initiated step by step into the mysteries of the household1 with the prospect of rising in the service1 if it is a house admitting of promotion1--to the respectable position of butler or house-steward4 ,in families of humbler pretensions1 where they must look for promotion elsewhere1 they know that can only be attained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers4 ,can there be any stronger security for their good conduct1--any doubt that1 in the mass of domestic servants1 good conduct is the rule1 the reverse the exception8 #baef4 ,the number of the male domestics in a family varies according to the wealth and position of the master1 from the owner of the ducal mansion1 with a retinue of attendants1 at the head of which is the chamberlain and house-steward1 to the occupier of the humbler house1 where a single footman1 or even the odd man-of-all-work1 is the only male retainer4 ,the majority of gentlemen's establishments probably comprise a servant out of livery1 or butler1 a footman1 and coachman1 or coachman and groom1 where the horses exceed two or three4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,butler4 #baeg4 ,the domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables at breakfast1 and wait upon the family at that meal1 assisted by the footman1 and see to the cleanliness of everything at table4 ,on taking away1 he removes the tray with the china and plate1 for which he is responsible4 ,at luncheon1 he arranges the meal1 and waits unassisted1 the footman being now engaged in other duties4 ,at dinner1 he places the silver and plated articles on the table1 sees that everything is in its place1 and rectifies what is wrong4 ,he carries in the first dish1 and announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table1 and respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated1 when he takes his place behind his master's chair on the left1 to remove the covers1 handing them to the other attendants to carry out4 ,after the first course of plates is supplied1 his place is at the sideboard to serve the wines1 but only when called on4 #baeh4 ,the first course ended1 he rings the cook's bell1 and hands the dishes from the table to the other servants to carry away1 receiving from them the second course1 which he places on the table1 removing the covers as before1 and again taking his place at the sideboard4 #baei4 ,at dessert1 the slips being removed1 the butler receives the dessert from the other servants1 and arranges it on the table1 with plates and glasses1 and then takes his place behind his master's chair to hand the wines and ices1 while the footman stands behind his mistress for the same purpose1 the other attendants leaving the room4 ,where the old-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table1 without any cloth1 is still adhered to1 the butler should rub off any marks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert4 #bafj4 ,before dinner1 he has satisfied himself that the lamps1 candles1 or gas-burners are in perfect order1 if not lighted1 which will usually be the case4 ,having served every one with their share of the dessert1 put the fires in order 7when these are used71 and seen the lights are all right1 at a signal from his master1 he and the footman leave the room4 #bafa4 ,he now proceeds to the drawing-room1 arranges the fireplace1 and sees to the lights2 he then returns to his pantry1 prepared to answer the bell1 and attend to the company1 while the footman is clearing away and cleaning the plate and glasses4 #bafb4 ,at tea he again attends4 ,at bedtime he appears with the candles2 he locks up the plate1 secures doors and windows1 and sees that all the fires are safe4 #bafc4 ,in addition to these duties1 the butler1 where only one footman is kept1 will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet1 to pay bills1 and superintend the other servants4 ,but the real duties of the butler are in the wine-cellar2 there he should be competent to advise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in2 fine1 bottle1 cork1 and seal it1 and place it in the binns4 ,brewing1 racking1 and bottling malt liquors1 belong to his office1 as well as their distribution4 ,these and other drinkables are brought from the cellar every day by his own hands1 except where an under-butler is kept2 and a careful entry of every bottle used1 entered in the cellar-book2 so that the book should always show the contents of the cellar4 #bafd4 ,the office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a household4 ,here1 as elsewhere1 honesty is the best policy3 the butler should make it his business to understand the proper treatment of the different wines under his charge1 which he can easily do from the wine-merchant1 and faithfully attend to it2 his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants1 if he serves a generous and hospitable master4 ,nothing spreads more rapidly in society than the reputation of a good wine-cellar1 and all that is required is wines well chosen and well cared for2 and this a little knowledge1 carefully applied1 will soon supply4 #bafe4 ,the butler1 we have said1 has charge of the contents of the cellars1 and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition1 to fine down wine in wood1 bottle it off1 and store it away in places suited to the sorts4 ,where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled1 it is usual to return the same number of empty bottles2 the butler has not1 in this case1 the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sorts separated2 but where the wine is bottled in the house1 he will find his account1 not only in keeping them separate1 but in rinsing them well1 and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty4 #baff4 ,there are various modes of fining wine3 isinglass1 gelatine1 and gum ,arabic are all used for the purpose4 ,whichever of these articles is used1 the process is always the same4 ,supposing eggs 7the cheapest7 to be used1--,draw a gallon or so of the wine1 and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs1 by stirring it with a whisk2 afterwards1 when thoroughly mixed1 pour it back into the cask through the bunghole1 and stir up the whole cask1 in a rotatory direction1 with a clean split stick inserted through the bunghole4 ,having stirred it sufficiently1 pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off1 until the cask is full2 then stir again1 skimming off the bubbles that rise to the surface4 ,when thoroughly mixed by stirring1 close the bunghole1 and leave it to stand for three or four days4 ,this quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or sherry4 ,the other clearing ingredients are applied in the same manner1 the material being cut into small pieces1 and dissolved in the quart of wine1 and the cask stirred in the same manner4 #bafg4 ,to ,bottle ,wine4--,having thoroughly washed and dried the bottles1 supposing they have been before used for the same kind of wine1 provide corks1 which will be improved by being slightly boiled1 or at least steeped in hot water1--a wooden hammer or mallet1 a bottling-boot1 and a squeezer for the corks4 ,bore a hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet1 receiving the liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer1 which is placed in a tub or basin4 ,this operation is best performed by two persons1 one to draw the wine1 the other to cork the bottles4 ,the drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the mark1 but not too full1 the bottle being placed in a clean tub to prevent waste4 ,the corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the knee1 the bottle placed in it1 and the cork1 after being squeezed in the press1 driven in by a flat wooden mallet4 #bafh4 ,as the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask1 a thick piece of muslin is placed in the strainer1 to prevent the viscous grounds from passing into the bottle4 #bafi4 ,having carefully counted the bottles1 they are stored away in their respective binns1 a layer of sand or sawdust being placed under the first tier1 and another over it2 a second tier is laid over this1 protected by a lath1 the head of the second being laid to the bottom of the first2 over this another bed of sawdust is laid1 not too thick1 another lath2 and so on till the binn is filled4 #bagj4 ,wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its quality and age4 ,port wine1 old in the wood1 will be ready to drink in five or six months2 but if it is a fruity wine1 it will improve every year4 ,sherry1 if of good quality1 will be fit to drink as soon as the sickness 7as its first condition after bottling is called7 ceases1 and will also improve2 but the cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature1 neither too hot nor too cold1 but about #ee or #fj1 and absolutely free from draughts of cold air4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,footman4 #baga4 ,where a single footman1 or odd man1 is the only male servant1 then1 whatever his ostensible position1 he is required to make himself generally useful4 ,he has to clean the knives and shoes1 the furniture1 the plate2 answer the visitors who call1 the drawing-room and parlour bells2 and do all the errands4 ,his life is no sinecure2 and a methodical arrangement of his time will be necessary1 in order to perform his many duties with any satisfaction to himself or his master4 #bagb4 ,the footman only finds himself in stockings1 shoes1 and washing4 ,where silk stockings1 or other extra articles of linen are worn1 they are found by the family1 as well as his livery1 a working dress1 consisting of a pair of overalls1 a waistcoat1 a fustian jacket1 with a white or jean one for times when he is liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast2 and1 on quitting his service1 he is expected to leave behind him any livery had within six months4 #bagc4 ,the footman is expected to rise early1 in order to get through all his dirty work before the family are stirring4 ,boots and shoes1 and knives and forks1 should be cleaned1 lamps in use trimmed1 his master's clothes brushed1 the furniture rubbed over2 so that he may put aside his working dress1 tidy himself1 and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay the cloth and prepare breakfast for the family4 #bagd4 ,we need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process3 three good brushes and good blacking must be provided2 one of the brushes hard1 to brush off the mud2 the other soft1 to lay on the blacking2 the third of a medium hardness1 for polishing2 and each should be kept for its particular use4 ,the blacking should be kept corked up1 except when in use1 and applied to the brush with a sponge tied to a stick1 which1 when put away1 rests in a notch cut in the cork4 ,when boots come in very muddy1 it is a good practice to wash off the mud1 and wipe them dry with a sponge2 then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides1 taking care they are not placed near the fire1 or scorched4 ,much delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots1 so as to make the leather look well-polished1 and the upper part retain a fresh appearance1 with the lining free from hand-marks1 which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes4 #bage4 ,patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet sponge1 and afterwards with a soft dry cloth1 and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil1 blacking and polishing the edge of the soles in the usual way1 but so as not to cover the patent polish with blacking4 ,a little milk may also be used with very good effect for patent leather boots4 #bagf4 ,top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen4 ,while cleaning the lower part in the usual manner1 protect the tops1 by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing it over them4 ,in cleaning the tops1 let the covering fall down over the boot2 wash the tops clean with soap and flannel1 and rub out any spots with pumice-stone4 ,if the tops are to be whiter1 dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of pumice-stone in a pint of soft water2 if a brown colour is intended1 mix an ounce of muriatic acid1 half an ounce of alum1 half an ounce of gum ,arabic1 and half an ounce of spirit of lavender1 in a pint and a half of skimmed milk turned4 ,these mixtures apply by means of a sponge1 and polish1 when dry1 with a rubber made of soft flannel4 #bagg4 ,knives are now generally cleaned by means of ,kent's or ,masters's machine1 which gives very little trouble1 and is very effective2 before1 however1 putting the knives into the machine1 it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little warm 7not hot7 water1 and then thoroughly wiped3 if put into the machine with any grease on them1 it adheres to the brushes1 and consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that may be put in4 ,when this precaution is not taken1 the machine must come to pieces1 so causing an immense amount of trouble1 which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free from grease before using the machine4 ,brushes are also used for cleaning forks1 which facilitate the operation4 ,when knives are so cleaned1 see that they are carefully polished1 wiped1 and with a good edge1 the ferules and prongs free from dirt1 and place them in the basket with the handles all one way4 #bagh4 ,lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the mechanism2 after that1 constant attention to cleanliness1 and an occasional entire clearing out with hot water3 when this is done1 all the parts should be carefully dried before filling again with oil4 ,when lacquered1 wipe the lacquered parts with a soft brush and cloth1 and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds1 wiping carefully afterwards4 ,brass lamps may be cleaned with oil and rottenstone every day when trimmed4 ,with bronze1 and other ornamental lamps1 more care will be required1 and soft flannel and oil only used1 to prevent the removal of the bronze or enamel4 ,brass-work1 or any metal-work not lacquered1 is cleaned by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste1 or with fine emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner4 ,a small portion of sal ammoniac1 beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft water1 rubbed over brass ornaments1 and heated over a charcoal fire1 and rubbed dry with bran or whitening1 will give to brass-work the brilliancy of gold4 ,in trimming moderator lamps1 let the wick be cut evenly all round2 as1 if left higher in one place than it is in another1 it will cause it to smoke and burn badly4 ,the lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder1 and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the purpose4 ,if it can be avoided1 never wash the chimneys of a lamp1 as it causes them to crack when they become hot4 ,small sticks1 covered with wash-leather pads1 are the best things to use for cleaning the glasses inside1 and a clean duster for polishing the outside4 ,the globe of a moderator lamp should be occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water1 then well rinsed in cold water1 and either wiped dry or left to drain4 ,where candle-lamps are used1 take out the springs occasionally1 and free them well from the grease that adheres to them4 #bagi4 ,french polish1 so universally applied to furniture1 is easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft cloth1 or a rubber of old silk2 but dining-tables can only be kept in order by hard rubbing1 or rather by quick rubbing1 which warms the wood and removes all spots4 #bahj4 ,brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary operation4 ,fine cloths require to be brushed lightly1 and with rather a soft brush1 except where mud is to be removed1 when a hard one is necessary1 being previously beaten lightly to dislodge the dirt4 ,lay the garment on a table1 and brush it in the direction of the nap4 ,having brushed it properly1 turn the sleeves back to the collar1 so that the folds may come at the elbow-joints2 next turn the lappels or sides back over the folded sleeves2 then lay the skirts over level with the collar1 so that the crease may fall about the centre1 and double one half over the other1 so as the fold comes in the centre of the back4 #baha4 ,having got through his dirty work1 the single footman has now to clean himself and prepare the breakfast4 ,he lays the cloth on the table2 over it the breakfast-cloth1 and sets the breakfast things in order1 and then proceeds to wait upon his master1 if he has any of the duties of a valet to perform4 #bahb4 ,where a valet is not kept1 a portion of his duties falls to the footman's share1--brushing the clothes among others4 ,when the hat is silk1 it requires brushing every day with a soft brush2 after rain1 it requires wiping the way of the nap before drying1 and1 when nearly dry1 brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it4 ,if the footman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties1 he will have to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in due time2 that the room is dusted and cleaned2 that the washhand-ewer is filled with soft water2 and that the bath1 whether hot or cold1 is ready when required2 that towels are at hand2 that hair-brushes and combs are properly cleansed1 and in their places2 that hot water is ready at the hour ordered2 the dressing-gown and slippers in their place1 the clean linen aired1 and the clothes to be worn for the day in their proper places4 ,after the master has dressed1 it will be the footman's duty to restore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry1 and the whole restored to order4 #bahc4 ,at breakfast1 when there is no butler1 the footman carries up the tea-urn1 and1 assisted by the housemaid1 he waits during breakfast4 ,breakfast over1 he removes the tray and other things off the table1 folds up the breakfast-cloth1 and sets the room in order1 by sweeping up all crumbs1 shaking the cloth1 and laying it on the table again1 making up the fire1 and sweeping up the hearth4 #bahd4 ,at luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed1 except where the footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business1 when1 in the absence of any butler1 the housemaid must assist4 #bahe4 ,for dinner1 the footman lays the cloth1 taking care that the table is not too near the fire1 if there is one1 and that passage-room is left4 ,a tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle2 and this requires two persons3 over this the slips are laid1 which are usually removed preparatory to placing dessert on the table4 ,he prepares knives1 forks1 and glasses1 with five or six plates for each person4 ,this done1 he places chairs enough for the party1 distributing them equally on each side of the table1 and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded1 within it a piece of bread or small roll1 and a knife on the right side of each plate1 a fork on the left1 and a carving-knife and fork at the top and bottom of the table1 outside the others1 with the rests opposite to them1 and a gravy-spoon beside the knife4 ,the fish-slice should be at the top1 where the lady of the house1 with the assistance of the gentleman next to her1 divides the fish1 and the soup-ladle at the bottom3 it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork2 at the same time1 on the right side also of each plate1 put a wine-glass for as many kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round1 and a finger-glass or glass-cooler about four inches from the edge4 ,the latter are frequently put on the table with the dessert4 #bahf4 ,about half an hour before dinner1 he rings the dinner-bell1 where that is the practice1 and occupies himself with carrying up everything he is likely to require4 ,at the expiration of the time1 having communicated with the cook1 he rings the real dinner-bell1 and proceeds to take it up with such assistance as he can obtain4 ,having ascertained that all is in order1 that his own dress is clean and presentable1 and his white cotton gloves are without a stain1 he announces in the drawing-room that dinner is served1 and stands respectfully by the door until the company are seated3 he places himself on the left1 behind his master1 who is to distribute the soup2 where soup and fish are served together1 his place will be at his mistress's left hand2 but he must be on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him1 whether male or female1 are at their posts4 ,if any of the guests has brought his own servant with him1 his place is behind his master's chair1 rendering such assistance to others as he can1 while attending to his master's wants throughout the dinner1 so that every guest has what he requires4 ,this necessitates both activity and intelligence1 and should be done without bustle1 without asking any questions1 except where it is the custom of the house to hand round dishes or wine1 when it will be necessary to mention1 in a quiet and unobtrusive manner1 the dish or wine you present4 #bahg4 ,salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number sufficient for the guests1 so that each may help themselves1 or1 at least1 their immediate neighbours4 ,,dinners ,,la ,,russe4 #bahh4 ,in some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass1 and ornamented with flowers1 the dessert only being placed on the table1 the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard1 and handed round in succession1 in courses of soup1 fish1 entries1 meat1 game1 and sweets4 ,this is not only elegant but economical1 as fewer dishes are required1 the symmetry of the table being made up with the ornaments and dessert4 ,the various dishes are also handed round when hot2 but it involves additional and superior attendance1 as the wines are also handed round2 and unless the servants are very active and intelligent1 many blunders are likely to be made4 7,see p4 #ied47 ,,general ,,observations4 #bahi4 ,while attentive to all1 the footman should be obtrusive to none2 he should give nothing but on a waiter1 and always hand it with the left hand and on the left side of the person he serves1 and hold it so that the guest may take it with ease4 ,in lifting dishes from the table1 he should use both hands1 and remove them with care1 so that nothing is spilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests4 #baij4 ,masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes2 but it is not expected that a servant will correct any omissions1 even if he should have time to notice them1 although with the best intentions3 thus it would not be correct1 for instance1 if he observed that his master took wine with the ladies all round1 as some gentlemen still continue to do1 but stopped at some one3--to nudge him on the shoulder and say1 as was done by the servant of a ,scottish gentleman1 ,what ails you at her in the green gown8 ,it will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than for the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule4 #baia4 ,during dinner each person's knife1 fork1 plate1 and spoon should be changed as soon as he has done with it2 the vegetables and sauces belonging to the different dishes presented without remark to the guests2 and the footman should tread lightly in moving round1 and1 if possible1 should bear in mind1 if there is a wit or humorist of the party1 whose good things keep the table in a roar1 that they are not expected to reach his ears4 #baib4 ,in opening wine1 let it be done quietly1 and without shaking the bottle2 if crusted1 let it be inclined to the crusted side1 and decanted while in that position4 ,in opening champagne1 it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop2 properly cooled1 the cork is easily extracted without an explosion2 when the cork is out1 the mouth of the bottle should be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm4 #baic4 ,at the end of the first course1 notice is conveyed to the cook1 who is waiting to send up the second1 which is introduced in the same way as before2 the attendants who remove the fragments1 carrying the dishes from the kitchen1 and handing them to the footman or butler1 whose duty it is to arrange them on the table4 ,after dinner1 the dessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman1 who places himself behind his master's chair1 to supply wine and hand round the ices and other refreshments1 all other servants leaving the room4 #baid4 ,as soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea1 the footman enters with the tray1 which has been previously prepared2 hands the tray round to the company1 with cream and sugar1 the tea and coffee being generally poured out1 while another attendant hands cakes1 toast1 or biscuits4 ,if it is an ordinary family party1 where this social meal is prepared by the mistress1 he carries the urn or kettle1 as the case may be2 hands round the toast1 or such other eatable as may be required1 removing the whole in the same manner when tea is over4 #baie4 ,after each meal1 the footman's place is in his pantry3 here perfect order should prevail--a place for everything and everything in its place4 ,a sink1 with hot and cold water laid on1 is very desirable1--cold absolutely necessary4 ,wooden bowls or tubs of sufficient capacity are required1 one for hot and another for cold water4 ,have the bowl three parts full of clean hot water2 in this wash all plate and plated articles which are greasy1 wiping them before cleaning with the brush4 #baif4 ,the footman in small families1 where only one man is kept1 has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well as his own1 and more constant occupation2 he will also have the arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control1 and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division4 ,all his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready1 when he must appear clean1 and in a presentable state4 ,after breakfast1 when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in its place1 the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms requires rubbing4 ,towards noon1 the parlour luncheon is to be prepared2 and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out with the carriage1 or follow her if she walks out4 #baig4 ,glass is a beautiful and most fragile article3 hence it requires great care in washing4 ,a perfectly clean wooden bowl is best for this operation1 one for moderately hot and another for cold water4 ,wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in the second1 and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or three times1 to drain for a few minutes4 ,when sufficiently drained1 wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one1 doing so tenderly and carefully4 ,accidents will happen2 but nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than continual reports of breakages1 which1 of course1 must reach that region4 #baih4 ,decanters and water-jugs require still more tender treatment in cleaning1 inasmuch as they are more costly to replace4 ,fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling water1 and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper2 leave them thus for two or three hours2 then shake the water up and down in the decanters2 empty this out1 rinse them well with clean cold water1 and put them in a rack to drain4 ,when dry1 polish them outside and inside1 as far as possible1 with a fine cloth4 ,to remove the crust of port or other wines1 add a little muriatic acid to the water1 and let it remain for some time4 #baii4 ,when required to go out with the carriage1 it is the footman's duty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean1 and that the glasses1 and sashes1 and linings1 are free from dust4 ,in receiving messages at the carriage door1 he should turn his ear to the speaker1 so as to comprehend what is said1 in order that he may give his directions to the coachman clearly4 ,when the house he is to call at is reached1 he should knock1 and return to the carriage for orders4 ,in closing the door upon the family1 he should see that the handle is securely turned1 and that no part of the ladies' dress is shut in4 #bbjj4 ,it is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for his master or mistress to their friends1 to the post1 or to the tradespeople2 and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness in doing so1 although writing even the simplest message is now the ordinary and very proper practice4 ,dean ,swift1 among his other quaint directions1 all of which are to be read by contraries1 recommends a perusal of all such epistles1 in order that you may be the more able to fulfil your duty to your master4 ,an old lady of ,forfarshire had one of those odd old ,caleb ,balderston sort of servants1 who construed the ,dean of ,st4 ,patrick more literally4 ,on one occasion1 when dispatch was of some importance1 knowing his inquiring nature1 she called her ,scotch ,paul ,pry to her1 opened the note1 and read it to him herself1 saying1 ,now1 ,andrew1 you ken a' aboot it1 and needna' stop to open and read it1 but just take it at once4 ,probably most of the notes you are expected to carry might1 with equal harmlessness1 be communicated to you2 but it will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress's affairs4 #bbja4 ,politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things masters and mistresses have a right to expect1 and should exact rigorously4 ,when visitors present themselves1 the servant charged with the duty of opening the door will open it promptly1 and answer1 without hesitation1 if the family are not at home1 or engaged2 which generally means the same thing1 and might be oftener used with advantage to morals4 ,on the contrary1 if he has no such orders1 he will answer affirmatively1 open the door wide to admit them1 and precede them to open the door of the drawing-room4 ,if the family are not there1 he will place chairs for them1 open the blinds 7if the room is too dark71 and intimate civilly that he goes to inform his mistress4 ,if the lady is in her drawing-room1 he announces the name of the visitors1 having previously acquainted himself with it4 ,in this part of his duty it is necessary to be very careful to repeat the names correctly2 mispronouncing names is very apt to give offence1 and leads sometimes to other disagreeables4 ,the writer was once initiated into some of the secrets on the other side of a legal affair in which he took an interest1 before he could correct a mistake made by the servant in announcing him4 ,when the visitor is departing1 the servant should be at hand1 ready1 when rung for1 to open the door2 he should open it with a respectful manner1 and close it gently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold4 ,when several visitors arrive together1 he should take care not to mix up the different names together1 where they belong to the same family1 as ,mr41 ,mrs41 and ,miss2 if they are strangers1 he should announce each as distinctly as possible4 #bbjb4 ,receptions and ,evening ,parties4--,the drawing-rooms being prepared1 the card-tables laid out with cards and counters1 and such other arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of the company1 the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointed approaches4 ,attendants in the drawing-room1 even more than in the dining-room1 should move about actively but noiselessly2 no creaking of shoes1 which is an abomination2 watching the lights from time to time1 so as to keep up their brilliancy4 ,but even if the attendant likes a game of cribbage or whist himself1 he must not interfere in his master or mistress's game1 nor even seem to take an interest in it4 ,we once knew a lady who had a footman1 and both were fond of a game of cribbage1--,john in the kitchen1 the lady in her drawing-room4 ,the lady was a giver of evening parties1 where she frequently enjoyed her favourite amusement4 ,while handing about the tea and toast1 ,john could not always suppress his disgust at her mistakes4 ,there is more in that hand1 ma'am1 he has been known to say2 or1 ,ma'am1 you forgot to count his nob2 in fact1 he identified himself with his mistress's game1 and would have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount4 ,it is not necessary to adopt his example on this point1 although ,john had many qualities a good servant might copy with advantage4 ,,the ,,coachhouse ,,and ,,stables4 #bbjc4 ,,the ,,horse is the noblest of quadrupeds1 whether we view him in his strength1 his sagacity1 or his beauty4 ,he is also the most useful to man of all the animal creation2 but his delicacy is equal to his power and usefulness4 ,no other animal1 probably1 is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he has been reduced1 or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure1 bad feeding1 or bad grooming4 ,it is1 therefore1 a point of humanity1 not to speak of its obvious impolicy1 for the owner of horses to overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming4 ,his interest dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed1 well fed1 and well groomed2 and he will do well to acquire so much of stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself4 ,in a general way1 where a horse's coat is habitually rough and untidy1 there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable4 ,when a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless1 he is getting ill or badly fed2 and where he is observed to perspire much in the stables1 is overfed1 and probably eats his litter in addition to his regular supply of food4 #bbjd4 ,stables4--,the architectural form of the stables will be subject to other influences than ours2 we confine ourselves1 therefore1 to their internal arrangements4 ,they should be roomy in proportion to the number of stalls2 warm1 with good ventilation1 and perfectly free from cold draughts2 the stalls roomy1 without excess1 with good and well-trapped drainage1 so as to exclude bad smells2 a sound ceiling to prevent the entrance of dust from the hayloft1 which is usually above them2 and there should be plenty of light1 coming1 however1 either from above or behind1 so as not to glare in the horse's eye4 #bbje4 ,heat4--,the first of these objects is attained1 if the stables are kept within a degree or two of #ej in winter1 and #fj in summer2 although some grooms insist on a much higher temperature1 in the interests of their own labour4 #bbjf4 ,ventilation is usually attained by the insertion of one or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and the roof1 with a sloping covering over the opening1 to keep out rain1 and valves or ventilators below to regulate the atmosphere1 with openings in the walls for the admission of fresh air3 this is still a difficulty1 however2 for the effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel1 and draughts must be avoided4 ,this is sometimes accomplished by means of hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside1 for the exit of bad air1 which is carried down through the hollow walls and discharged at the bottom1 while1 for the admission of fresh air1 the reverse takes place3 the fresh by this means gets diffused and heated before it is discharged into the stable4 #bbjg4 ,the ,stalls should be divided by partitions of wood-work eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels1 and nine feet deep1 so as to separate each horse from its neighbour4 ,a hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse1 of wood or iron1 occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the stall1 which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized horse4 ,a manger1 formerly of wood1 but of late years more generally of iron lined with enamel1 occupies a corner of the stall4 ,the pavement of the stall should be nearly level1 with a slight incline towards the gutter1 to keep the bed dry1 paved with hard ,dutch brick laid on edge1 or asphalte1 or smithy clinkers1 or rubble-stones1 laid in strong cement4 ,in the centre1 about five feet from the wall1 a grating should be firmly fixed in the pavement1 and in communication with a well-trapped drain to carry off the water2 the gutter outside the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped openings4 ,the passage between the stall and the hall should be from five to six feet broad at least2 on the wall1 opposite to each stall1 pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and other things in daily use4 #bbjh4 ,a ,harness-room is indispensable to every stable4 ,it should be dry and airy1 and furnished with a fireplace and boiler1 both for the protection of the harness and to prepare mashes for the horses when required4 ,the partition-wall should be boarded where the harness goes1 with pegs to hang the various pieces of harness on1 with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on1 a cupboard for the brushes1 sponges1 and leathers1 and a lock-up corn-bin4 #bbji4 ,the furniture of a stable with coachhouse1 consists of coach-mops1 jacks for raising the wheels1 horse-brushes1 spoke-brushes1 water-brushes1 crest and bit-brushes1 dandy-brushes1 currycombs1 birch and heath brooms1 trimming-combs1 scissors and pickers1 oil-cans and brushes1 harness-brushes of three sorts1 leathers1 sponges for horse and carriage1 stable-forks1 dung-baskets or wheelbarrow1 corn-sieves and measures1 horse-cloths and stable pails1 horn or glass lanterns4 ,over the stables there should be accommodation for the coachman or groom to sleep4 ,accidents sometimes occur1 and he should be at hand to interfere4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,coachman1 ,,groom1 ,,and ,,stable-,,boy4 #bbaj4 ,the ,establishment we have in view will consist of coachman1 groom1 and stable-boy1 who are capable of keeping in perfect order four horses1 and perhaps the pony4 ,of this establishment the coachman is chief4 ,besides skill in driving1 he should possess a good general knowledge of horses2 he has usually to purchase provender1 to see that the horses are regularly fed and properly groomed1 watch over their condition1 apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animals under his charge1 and report where he observes symptoms of more serious ones which he does not understand4 ,he has either to clean the carriage himself1 or see that the stable-boy does it properly4 #bbaa4 ,the ,groom's first duties are to keep his horses in condition2 but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet1 to ride out with his master1 on occasions1 to wait at table1 and otherwise assist in the house3 in these cases1 he should have the means of dressing himself1 and keeping his clothes entirely away from the stables4 ,in the morning1 about six o'clock1 or rather before1 the stables should be opened and cleaned out1 and the horses fed1 first by cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay1 putting it lightly in the rack1 that the horses may get it out easily2 a short time afterwards their usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger4 ,while this is going on1 the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung1 and sweeping and washing out the stables1 both of which should be done every day1 and every corner carefully swept1 in order to keep the stable sweet and clean4 ,the real duties of the groom follow3 where the horses are not taken out for early exercise1 the work of grooming immediately commences4 ,having tied up the head1 to use the excellent description of the process given by old ,barrett1 take a currycomb and curry him all over the body1 to raise the dust1 beginning first at the neck1 holding the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand1 and curry him from the setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks1 down to the point of the hock2 then change your hands1 and curry him before1 on his breast1 and1 laying your right arm over his back1 join your right side to his left1 and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels1 and so all over from the knees and back upwards2 after that1 go to the far side and do that likewise4 ,then take a dead horse's tail1 or1 failing that1 a cotton dusting-cloth1 and strike that away which the currycomb hath raised4 ,then take a round brush made of bristles1 with a leathern handle1 and dress him all over1 both head1 body1 and legs1 to the very fetlocks1 always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it with the currycomb4 ,in the curry-combing process1 as well as brushing1 it must be applied with mildness1 especially with fine-skinned horses2 otherwise the tickling irritates them much4 ,the brushing is succeeded by a hair-cloth1 with which rub him all over again very hard1 both to take away loose hairs and lay his coat2 then wash your hands in fair water1 and rub him all over while they are wet1 as well over the head as the body4 ,lastly1 take a clean cloth1 and rub him all over again till he be dry2 then take another hair-cloth1 and rub all his legs exceeding well from the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs1 picking and dressing them very carefully about the fetlocks1 so as to remove all gravel and dust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints4 ,in addition to the practice of this old writer1 modern grooms add wisping1 which usually follows brushing4 ,the best wisp is made from a hayband1 untwisted1 and again doubled up after being moistened with water3 this is applied to every part of the body1 as the brushing had been1 by changing the hands1 taking care in all these operations to carry the hand in the direction of the coat4 ,stains on the hair are removed by sponging1 or1 when the coat is very dirty1 by the water-brush2 the whole being finished off by a linen or flannel cloth4 ,the horsecloth should now be put on by taking the cloth in both hands1 with the outside next you1 and1 with your right hand to the off side1 throw it over his back1 placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level1 which will be about a foot from the tail4 ,put the roller round1 and the pad-piece under it1 about six or eight inches from the fore legs4 ,the horse's head is now loosened2 he is turned about in his stall to have his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part1 including throat1 with the dusting-cloth1 finishing by pulling his ears1 which all horses seem to enjoy very much4 ,this done1 the mane and foretop should be combed out1 passing a wet sponge over them1 sponging the mane on both sides1 by throwing it back to the midriff1 to make it lie smooth4 ,the horse is now returned to his headstall1 his tail combed out1 cleaning it of stains with a wet brush or sponge1 trimming both tail and mane1 and forelock when necessary1 smoothing them down with a brush on which a little oil has been dropped4 #bbab4 ,watering usually follows dressing2 but some horses refuse their food until they have drunk3 the groom should not1 therefore1 lay down exclusive rules on this subject1 but study the temper and habits of his horse4 #bbac4 ,exercise4--,all horses not in work require at least two hours' exercise daily2 and in exercising them a good groom will put them through the paces to which they have been trained4 ,in the case of saddle-horses he will walk1 trot1 canter1 and gallop them1 in order to keep them up to their work4 ,with draught horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot4 #bbad4 ,feeding must depend on their work1 but they require feeding three times a day1 with more or less corn each time1 according to their work4 ,in the fast coaching days it was a saying among proprietors1 that his belly was the measure of his food2 but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances4 ,horses have been known to consume #dj lbs4 of hay in twenty-four hours1 whereas #af lbs4 to #ah lbs4 is the utmost which should have been given4 ,mr4 ,croall1 an extensive coach proprietor in ,scotland1 limited his horses to #d-a_/b lbs4 cut straw1 #h lbs4 bruised oats1 and #b-a_/b lbs4 bruised beans1 in the morning and noon1 giving them at night #be lbs4 of the following2 viz41 #efj lbs4 steamed potatoes1 #cf lbs4 barley-dust1 #dj lbs4 cut straw1 and #f lbs4 salt1 mixed up together3 under this the horses did their work well4 ,the ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of oats1 about #dj lbs4 to the bushel1 twice a day1 a third feed and a rack-full of hay1 which may be about #ae lbs4 or #ah lbs41 when he is in full work4 #bbae4 ,you cannot take up a paper without having the question put1 ,do you bruise your oats8 ,well1 that depends on circumstances3 a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when it can get them2 but aged horses1 after a time1 lose the power of masticating and bruising them1 and bolt them whole2 thus much impeding the work of digestion4 ,for an old horse1 then1 bruise the oats2 for a young one it does no harm and little good4 ,oats should be bright and dry1 and not too new4 ,where they are new1 sprinkle them with salt and water2 otherwise1 they overload the horse's stomach4 ,chopped straw mixed with oats1 in the proportion of a third of straw or hay1 is a good food for horses in full work2 and carrots1 of which horses are remarkably fond1 have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the coat4 #bbaf4 ,the water given to a horse merits some attention2 it should not be too cold2 hard water is not to be recommended2 stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious2 river water is the best for all purposes2 and anything is preferable to spring water1 which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour or two1 and stirred up before using it2 a handful of oatmeal thrown into the pail will much improve its quality4 #bbag4 ,shoeing4--,a horse should not be sent on a journey or any other hard work immediately after new shoeing2--the stiffness incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down4 ,a day's rest1 with reasonable exercise1 will not be thrown away after this operation4 ,on reaching home very hot1 the groom should walk him about for a few minutes2 this done1 he should take off the moisture with the scraper1 and afterwards wisp him over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth3 if the cloth is dipped in some spirit1 all the better4 ,he should wash1 pick1 and wipe dry the legs and feet1 take off the bridle and crupper1 and fasten it to the rack1 then the girths1 and put a wisp of straw under the saddle4 ,when sufficiently cool1 the horse should have some hay given him1 and then a feed of oats3 if he refuse the latter1 offer him a little wet bran1 or a handful of oatmeal in tepid water4 ,when he has been fed1 he should be thoroughly cleaned1 and his body-clothes put on1 and1 if very much harassed with fatigue1 a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on a valuable horse1 adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly4 #bbah4 ,bridles4--,every time a horse is unbridled1 the bit should be carefully washed and dried1 and the leather wiped1 to keep them sweet1 as well as the girths and saddle1 the latter being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is again put on4 ,in washing a horse's feet after a day's work1 the master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them1 and then rubbed with a brush till quite dry4 #bbai4 ,harness1 if not carefully preserved1 very soon gets a shabby tarnished appearance4 ,where the coachman has a proper harness-room and sufficient assistance1 this is inexcusable and easily prevented4 ,the harness-room should have a wooden lining all round1 and be perfectly dry and well ventilated4 ,around the walls1 hooks and pegs should be placed1 for the several pieces of harness1 at such a height as to prevent their touching the ground2 and every part of the harness should have its peg or hook1--one for the halters1 another for the reins1 and others for snaffles and other bits and metal-work2 and either a wooden horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads4 ,all these parts should be dry1 clean1 and shining4 ,this is only to be done by careful cleaning and polishing1 and the use of several requisite pastes4 ,the metallic parts1 when white1 should be cleaned by a soft brush and plate-powder2 the copper and brass parts burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil1--steel with emery-powder2 both made into a paste with a little oil4 #bbbj4 ,an excellent paste for polishing harness and the leather-work of carriages1 is made by melting #h lbs4 of yellow wax1 stirring it till completely dissolved4 ,into this pour #a lb4 of litharge of the shops1 which has been pounded up with water1 and dried and sifted through a sieve1 leaving the two1 when mixed1 to simmer on the fire1 stirring them continually till all is melted4 ,when it is a little cool1 mix this with #a-a_/d lb4 of good ivory-black2 place this again on the fire1 and stir till it boils anew1 and suffer it to cool4 ,when cooled a little1 add distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish paste1 scenting it with any essence at hand1 thinning it when necessary from time to time1 by adding distilled turpentine4 #bbba4 ,when the leather is old and greasy1 it should be cleaned before applying this polish1 with a brush wetted in a weak solution of potass and water1 washing afterwards with soft river water1 and drying thoroughly4 ,if the leather is not black1 one or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the polish4 ,when quite dry1 the varnish should be laid on with a soft shoe-brush1 using also a soft brush to polish the leather4 #bbbb4 ,when the leather is very old1 it may be softened with fish-oil1 and1 after putting on the ink1 a sponge charged with distilled turpentine passed over1 to scour the surface of the leather1 which should be polished as above4 #bbbc4 ,for fawn or yellow-coloured leather1 take a quart of skimmed milk1 pour into it #a oz4 of sulphuric acid1 and1 when cold1 add to it #d oz4 of hydrochloric acid1 shaking the bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapours2 separate the coagulated from the liquid part1 by straining through a sieve1 and store it away till required4 ,in applying it1 clean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid1 washing it off immediately1 and apply the composition when dry with a sponge4 #bbbd4 ,wheel-grease is usually purchased at the shops2 but a good paste is made as follows3--,melt #hj parts of grease1 and stir into it1 mixing it thoroughly and smoothly1 #bj parts of fine black-lead in powder1 and store away in a tin box for use4 ,this grease is used in the mint at ,paris1 and is highly approved4 #bbbe4 ,carriages in an endless variety of shapes and names are continually making their appearance2 but the hackney cab or clarence seems most in request for light carriages2 the family carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence adapted for family use4 ,the carriage is a valuable piece of furniture1 requiring all the care of the most delicate upholstery1 with the additional disadvantage of continual exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets4 #bbaf4 ,it requires1 therefore1 to be carefully cleaned before putting away1 and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated1 for the wood-work swells with moisture2 it shrinks also with heat1 unless the timber has undergone a long course of seasoning3 it should also have a dry floor1 a boarded one being recommended4 ,it must be removed from the ammoniacal influence of the stables1 from open drains and cesspools1 and other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish4 ,when the carriage returns home1 it should be carefully washed and dried1 and that1 if possible1 before the mud has time to dry on it4 ,this is done by first well slushing it with clean water1 so as to wash away all particles of sand1 having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the linings4 ,the body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop1 using plenty of clean water1 and penetrating into every corner of the carved work1 so that not an atom of dirt remains2 the body of the carriage is then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so that the wheel turns freely2 this is now thoroughly washed with the mop until the dirt is removed1 using a water-brush for corners where the mop does not penetrate4 ,every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop1 and afterwards with a wet sponge1 the carriage is wiped dry1 and1 as soon after as possible1 the varnish is carefully polished with soft leather1 using a little sweet oil for the leather parts1 and even for the panels1 so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack4 ,stains are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil2 if that fails1 a little ,tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more successful4 #bbbg4 ,in preparing the carriage for use1 the whole body should be rubbed over with a clean leather and carefully polished1 the iron-work and joints oiled1 the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned1--the one with plate-powder1 or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil1 and leather kept for the purpose1--the other with rottenstone mixed with a little oil1 and applied without too much rubbing1 until the paste is removed2 but1 if rubbed every day with the leather1 little more will be required to keep it untarnished4 ,the linings require careful brushing every day1 the cushions being taken out and beaten1 and the glass sashes should always be bright and clean4 ,the wheel-tires and axletree are carefully seen to1 and greased when required1 the bolts and nuts tightened1 and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled4 #bbbh4 ,these duties1 however1 are only incidental to the coachman's office1 which is to drive2 and much of the enjoyment of those in the carriage depends on his proficiency in his art1--much also of the wear of the carriage and horses4 ,he should have sufficient knowledge of the construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order1--to know1 also1 the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him1 without risking the springs1 and without shaking those he is driving too much4 #bbbi4 ,having1 with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy1 put his horses to the carriage1 and satisfied himself1 by walking round them1 that everything is properly arranged1 the coachman proceeds to the off-side of the carriage1 takes the reins from the back of the horses1 where they were thrown1 buckles them together1 and1 placing his foot on the step1 ascends to his box1 having his horses now entirely under control4 ,in ordinary circumstances1 he is not expected to descend1 for where no footman accompanies the carriage1 the doors are usually so arranged that even a lady may let herself out1 if she wishes it1 from the inside4 ,the coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an accident1 and all his attention is required to guide his horses4 #bbcj4 ,the pace at which he drives will depend upon his orders1--in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight miles an hour2 less speed is injurious to the horses1 getting them into lazy and sluggish habits2 for it is wonderful how soon these are acquired by some horses4 ,the writer was once employed to purchase a horse for a country friend1 and he picked a very handsome gelding out of ,collins's stables1 which seemed to answer to his friend's wants4 ,it was duly committed to the coachman who was to drive it1 after some very successful trials in harness and out of it1 and seemed likely to give great satisfaction4 ,after a time1 the friend got tired of his carriage1 and gave it up2 as the easiest mode of getting rid of the horse1 it was sent up to the writer's stables1--a present4 ,only twelve months had elapsed2 the horse was as handsome as ever1 with plenty of flesh1 and a sleek glossy coat1 and he was thankfully enough received2 but1 on trial1 it was found that a stupid coachman1 who was imbued with one of their old maxims1 that it's the pace that kills1 had driven the horse1 capable of doing his nine miles an hour with ease1 at a jog-trot of four miles1 or four and a half2 and now1 no persuasion of the whip could get more out of him4 ,after many unsuccessful efforts to bring him back to his pace1 in one of which a break-down occurred1 under the hands of a professional trainer1 he was sent to the hammer1 and sold for a sum that did not pay for the attempt to break him in4 ,this maxim1 therefore1 that it's the pace that kills1 is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense in which we are viewing it4 ,in the old coaching days1 indeed1 when the ,shrewsbury ,wonder drove into the inn yard while the clock was striking1 week after week and mouth after month1 with unerring regularity1 twenty-seven hours to a hundred and sixty-two miles2 when the ,quicksilver mail was timed to eleven miles an hour between ,london and ,plymouth1 with a fine of #e to the driver if behind time2 when the ,brighton ,age1 tool'd and horsed by the late ,mr4 ,stevenson1 used to dash round the square as the fifth hour was striking1 having stopped at the half-way house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry to his passengers1--then the pace was indeed killing4 ,but the truth is1 horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that lan with which a good driver can inspire them1 and they are left to do their work by mere weight and muscle2 therefore1 unless he has contrary orders1 a good driver will choose a smart pace1 but not enough to make his horses perspire3 on level roads this should never be seen4 #bbca4 ,in choosing his horses1 every master will see that they are properly paired1--that their paces are about equal4 ,when their habits differ1 it is the coachman's duty to discover how he can1 with least annoyance to the horses1 get that pace out of them4 ,some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the check1 and the curb irritates them2 others1 with harder mouths1 cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords2 he must1 therefore1 accommodate the horses as he best can4 ,the reins should always be held so that the horses are in hand2 but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein2 the pain to the horse is intolerable1 and causes him to rear and plunge1 and finally break sway1 if he can4 ,he is also a bad driver when the reins are always slack2 the horse then feels abandoned to himself2 he is neither directed nor supported1 and if no accident occurs1 it is great good luck4 #bbcb4 ,the true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle1 that the mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit1 and the directions are indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull2 the horses are guided and encouraged1 and only pulled up when they exceed their intended pace1 or in the event of a stumble2 for there is a strong though gentle hand on the reins4 #bbcc4 ,the ,whip1 in the hands of a good driver1 and with well-bred cattle1 is there1 more as a precaution than a tool for frequent use2 if he uses it1 it is to encourage1 by stroking the flanks2 except1 indeed1 he has to punish some waywardness of temper1 and then he does it effectually1 taking care1 however1 that it is done on the flank1 where there is no very tender part1 never on the crupper4 ,in driving1 the coachman should never give way to temper4 ,how often do we see horses stumble from being conducted1 or at least allowed1 to go over bad ground by some careless driver1 who immediately wreaks that vengeance on the poor horse which might1 with much more justice1 be applied to his own brutal shoulders4 ,the whip is of course useful1 and even necessary1 but should be rarely used1 except to encourage and excite the horses4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,valet4 #bbcd4 ,attendants on the ,person4-,no man is a hero to his valet1 saith the proverb2 and the corollary may run1 ,no lady is a heroine to her maid4 ,the infirmities of humanity are1 perhaps1 too numerous and too equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which attendants on the person have opportunities of applying4 ,the valet and waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress1 receiving orders only from them1 dressing them1 accompanying them in all their journeys1 the confidants and agents of their most unguarded moments1 of their most secret habits1 and of course subject to their commands1--even to their caprices2 they themselves being subject to erring judgment1 aggravated by an imperfect education4 ,all that can be expected from such servants is polite manners1 modest demeanour1 and a respectful reserve1 which are indispensable4 ,to these1 good sense1 good temper1 some self-denial1 and consideration for the feelings of others1 whether above or below them in the social scale1 will be useful qualifications4 ,their duty leads them to wait on those who are1 from sheer wealth1 station1 and education1 more polished1 and consequently more susceptible of annoyance2 and any vulgar familiarity of manner is opposed to all their notions of self-respect4 ,quiet unobtrusive manners1 therefore1 and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers1 either in praise or blame1 is as essential in their absence1 as good manners and respectful conduct in their presence4 #bbce4 ,some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating of the duties of the footman in a small family4 ,his day commences by seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order2 that the housemaid has swept and dusted it properly2 that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully2 and some time before his master is expected1 he will do well to throw up the sash to admit fresh air1 closing it1 however1 in time to recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers4 ,it is now his duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire1 to be aired properly2 to lay the trousers intended to be worn1 carefully brushed and cleaned1 on the back of his master's chair2 while the coat and waistcoat1 carefully brushed and folded1 and the collar cleaned1 are laid in their place ready to put on when required4 ,all the articles of the toilet should be in their places1 the razors properly set and stropped1 and hot water ready for use4 #bbcf4 ,gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving themselves1 but a valet should be prepared to do it if required2 and he should1 besides1 be a good hairdresser4 ,shaving over1 he has to brush the hair1 beard1 and moustache1 where that appendage is encouraged1 arranging the whole simply and gracefully1 according to the age and style of countenance4 ,every fortnight1 or three weeks at the utmost1 the hair should be cut1 and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required4 ,a good valet will now present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted2 afterwards1 the body-linen1 neck-tie1 which he will put on1 if required1 and1 afterwards1 waistcoat1 coat1 and boots1 in suitable order1 and carefully brushed and polished4 #bbcg4 ,having thus seen his master dressed1 if he is about to go out1 the valet will hand him his cane1 gloves1 and hat1 the latter well brushed on the outside with a soft brush1 and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief1 respectfully attend him to the door1 and open it for him1 and receive his last orders for the day4 #bbch4 ,he now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room1 cleans the combs and brushes1 and brushes and folds up any clothes that may be left about the room1 and puts them away in the drawers4 #bbci4 ,gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and appearance2 it is the valet's duty1 in this case1 where his master permits it1 to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for the occasion1 so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and cleanliness2 that his linen and neck-tie1 where that is white or coloured1 are unsoiled2 and where he is not accustomed to change them every day1 that the cravat is turned1 and even ironed1 to remove the crease of the previous fold4 ,the coat collar1--which where the hair is oily and worn long1 is apt to get greasy--should also be examined2 a careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they appear1 first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn1 which has a renovating effect1 and the smell of which soon disappears4 ,the grease is dissolved and removed by gentle scraping4 ,the grease removed1 add a little more of the spirit1 and rub with a piece of clean cloth2 finish by adding a few drops more2 rub it with the palm of the hand1 in the direction of the grain of the cloth1 and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the garment4 #bbdj4 ,polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet1 and not always to be obtained good by purchase2 never so good1 perhaps1 as he can make for himself after the following recipes3--,take of ivory-black and treacle each #d oz41 sulphuric acid #a oz41 best olive-oil #b spoonfuls1 best white-wine vinegar #c half-pints3 mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen jar2 then add the sulphuric acid1 continuing to stir the mixture2 next pour in the oil2 and1 lastly1 add the vinegar1 stirring it in by degrees1 until thoroughly incorporated4 #bda4 ,another polish is made by mixing #a oz4 each of pounded galls and logwood-chips1 and #c lbs4 of red ,french vine 7ordinaire74 ,boil together till the liquid is reduced to half the quantity1 and pour it off through a strainer4 ,now take #a_/b lb4 each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar1 #a oz4 of green copperas1 and #c lbs4 of brandy4 ,dissolve the gum-arabic in the preceding decoction1 and add the sugar and copperas3 when all is dissolved and mixed together1 stir in the brandy1 mixing it smoothly4 ,this mixture will yield #e or #f lbs4 of a very superior polishing paste for boots and shoes4 #bbdb4 ,it is1 perhaps1 unnecessary to add1 that having discharged all the commissions intrusted to him by his master1 such as conveying notes or messages to friends1 or the tradesmen1 all of which he should punctually and promptly attend to1 it is his duty to be in waiting when his master returns home to dress for dinner1 or for any other occasion1 and to have all things prepared for this second dressing4 ,previous to this1 he brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called1 delivers the messages be may have received for him1 and otherwise acquits himself of the morning's commissions1 and receives his orders for the remainder of the day4 ,the routine of his evening duty is to have the dressing-room and study1 where there is a separate one1 arranged comfortably for his master1 the fires lighted1 candles prepared1 dressing-gown and slippers in their place1 and aired1 and everything in order that is required for his master's comforts4 ,,female ,,domestics4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,lady',s-,,maid4 #bbdc4 ,the duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous1 and perhaps more onerous1 than those of the valet2 for while the latter is aided by the tailor1 the hatter1 the linen-draper1 and the perfumer1 the lady's-maid has to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself3 she should1 indeed1 be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker1 a good hairdresser1 and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with which the toilet-table is supplied1 in order to use them with safety and effect4 ,her first duty in the morning1 after having performed her own toilet1 is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the evening before1 either to put them away1 or to see that they are all in order to put on again4 ,during the winter1 and in wet weather1 the dresses should be carefully examined1 and the mud removed4 ,dresses of tweed1 and other woollen materials1 may be laid out on a table and brushed all over2 but in general1 even in woollen fabrics1 the lightness of the tissues renders brushing unsuitable to dresses1 and it is better to remove the dust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin cloth4 ,silk dresses should never be brushed1 but rubbed with a piece of merino1 or other soft material1 of a similar colour1 kept for the purpose4 ,summer dresses of barge1 muslin1 mohair1 and other light materials1 simply require shaking2 but if the muslin be tumbled1 it must be ironed afterwards4 ,if the dresses require slight repair1 it should be done at once3 a stitch in time saves nine4 #bbdd4 ,the bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume1 in order to remove every particle of dust2 but this has probably been done1 as it ought to have been1 the night before4 ,velvet bonnets1 and other velvet articles of dress1 should be cleaned with a soft brush4 ,if the flowers with which the bonnet is decorated have been crushed or displaced1 or the leaves tumbled1 they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers4 ,if feathers have suffered from damp1 they should be held near the fire for a few minutes1 and restored to their natural state by the hand or a soft brush4 #bbde4 ,the ,chausserie1 or foot-gear of a lady1 is one of the few things left to mark her station1 and requires special care4 ,satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush1 or wiped with a cloth4 ,kid or varnished leather should have the mud wiped off with a sponge charged with milk1 which preserves its softness and polish4 ,the following is also an excellent polish for applying to ladies' boots1 instead of blacking them3--,mix equal proportions of sweet-oil1 vinegar1 and treacle1 with #a oz4 of lamp-black4 ,when all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated1 rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the hand1 and put them in a cool place to dry4 ,ladies' blacking1 which may be purchased in #f;d1 and #as4 bottles1 is also very much used for patent leather and kid boots1 particularly when they are a little worn4 ,this blacking is merely applied with a piece of sponge1 and the boots should not be put on until the blacking is dry und hardened4 #bbdf4 ,these various preliminary offices performed1 the lady's-maid should prepare for dressing her mistress1 arranging her dressing-room1 toilet-table1 and linen1 according to her mistress's wishes and habits4 ,the details of dressing we need not touch upon1--every lady has her own mode of doing so2 but the maid should move about quietly1 perform any offices about her mistress's person1 as lacing stays1 gently1 and adjust her linen smoothly4 #bbdg4 ,having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire1 sweeping the hearth1 and made everything ready for dressing her mistress1 placed her linen before the fire to air1 and laid out the various articles of dress she is to wear1 which will probably have been arranged the previous evening1 the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties4 #bbdh4 ,hairdressing is the most important part of the lady's-maid's office4 ,if ringlets are worn1 remove the curl-papers1 and1 after thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below1 dress it according to the prevailing fashion4 ,if bandeaux are worn1 the hair is thoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside1 folding the hair back round the head1 brushing it perfectly smooth1 giving it a glossy appearance by the use of pomades1 or oil1 applied by the palm of the hand1 smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline4 ,double bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward1 and rolling it over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer3 it is finished behind by plaiting the hair1 and arranging it in such a manner as to look well with the head-dress4 #bbdi4 ,lessons in hairdressing may be obtained1 and at not an unreasonable charge4 ,if a lady's-maid can afford it1 we would advise her to initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering on her duties4 ,if a mistress finds her maid handy1 and willing to learn1 she will not mind the expense of a few lessons1 which are almost necessary1 as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is so continually changing4 ,brushes and combs should be kept scrupulously clean1 by washing them about twice a week3 to do this oftener spoils the brushes1 as very frequent washing makes them so very soft4 ,to wash ,brushes4 #bbej4 ,dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water1 allowing a piece the size of a walnut to a quart of water4 ,put the water into a basin1 and1 after combing out the hair from the brushes1 dip them1 bristles downwards1 into the water and out again1 keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as possible4 ,repeat this until the bristles look clean2 then rinse the brushes in a little cold water2 shake them well1 and wipe the handles and backs with a towel1 but not the bristles1 and set the brushes to dry in the sun1 or near the fire2 but take care not to put them too close to it4 ,wiping the bristles of a brush makes them soft1 as does also the use of soap4 ,to clean ,combs4 #bbea4 ,if it can be avoided1 never wash combs1 as the water often makes the teeth split1 and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made1 rough4 ,small brushes1 manufactured purposely for cleaning combs1 may be purchased at a trifling cost3 with this the comb should be well brushed1 and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel4 ,a good ,wash for the ,hair4 #bbeb4 ,,ingredients4--#a pennyworth of borax1 #a_/b pint of olive-oil1 #a pint of boiling water4 ,mode4--,pour the boiling water over the borax and oil2 let it cool2 then put the mixture into a bottle4 ,shake it before using1 and apply it with a flannel4 ,camphor and borax1 dissolved in boiling water and left to cool1 make a very good wash for the hair2 as also does rosemary-water mixed with a little borax4 ,after using any of these washes1 when the hair becomes thoroughly dry1 a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed in1 to make it smooth and glossy4 ,to make ,pomade for the ,hair4 #bbec4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d lb4 of lard1 #b pennyworth of castor-oil2 scent4 ,mode4--,let the lard be unsalted2 beat it up well2 then add the castor-oil1 and mix thoroughly together with a knife1 adding a few drops of any scent that may be preferred4 ,put the pomatum into pots1 which keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid4 ,another ,recipe for ,pomatum4 #bbed4 ,,ingredients4--#h oz4 of olive-oil1 #a oz4 of spermaceti1 #c pennyworth of essential oil of almonds1 #c pennyworth of essence of lemon4 ,mode4--,mix these ingredients together1 and store away in jars for use4 ,to make ,bandoline4 #beee4 ,,ingredients4--#a oz4 of gum-tragacanth1 #a_/d pint of cold water1 #c pennyworth of essence of almonds1 #b teaspoonfuls of old rum4 ,mode4--,put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold water2 let it stand till dissolved1 then stir into it the essence of almonds2 let it remain for an hour or two1 when pour the rum on the top4 ,this should make the stock bottle1 and when any is required for use1 it is merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until the desired consistency is obtained1 and to keep it in a small bottle1 well corked1 for use4 ,this bandoline1 instead of injuring the hair1 as many other kinds often do1 improves it1 by increasing its growth1 and making it always smooth and glossy4 ,an excellent ,pomatum4 #bbef4 ,,ingredients4--#a-a_/b lb4 of lard1 #a_/b pint of olive-oil1 #a_/b pint of castor-oil1 #d oz4 of spermaceti1 bergamot1 or any other scent2 elder-flower water4 ,mode4--,wash the lard well in the elder-flower water2 drain1 and beat it to a cream4 ,mix the two oils together1 and heat them sufficiently to dissolve the spermaceti1 which should be beaten fine in a mortar4 ,mix all these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind of scent may be preferred2 and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use1 keeping them well corked4 ,the best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set the bottle in a saucepan of warm water4 ,it will remain good for many months4 ,to promote the ,growth of ,hair4 #bbeg4 ,,ingredients4--,equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of rosemary2 a few drops of oil of nutmeg4 ,mode4--,mix the ingredients together1 rub the roots of the hair every night with a little of this liniment1 and the growth of it will very soon sensibly increase4 #bbeh4 ,our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some general advice4 ,in putting on a band1 see that it is laid quite flat1 and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned in front2 that the pin is a strong one1 and that it is secured to the stays1 so as not to slip up or down1 or crease in the folds4 ,arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline petticoats2 if the dress fastens behind1 put a small pin in the slit to prevent it from opening4 ,see that the sleeves fall well over the arms4 ,if it is finished with a jacket1 or other upper dress1 see that it fits smoothly under the arms2 pull out the flounces1 and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the hands1 so that it falls in graceful folds4 ,in arranging the petticoat itself1 a careful lady's-maid will see that this is firmly fastened round the waist4 #bbei4 ,where sashes are worn1 pin the bows securely on the inside with a pin1 so as not to be visible2 then raise the bow with the fingers4 ,the collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with brooch or bow in the centre4 #bbfj4 ,having dressed her mistress for breakfast1 and breakfasted herself1 the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogether upon the habits of the family1 in which hardly two will probably agree4 ,where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress1 it is probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to her care2 that1 the housemaid will rarely enter1 except for the weekly or other periodical cleaning2 she will1 therefore1 have to make her mistress's bed1 and keep it in order2 and as her duties are light and easy1 there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach to uncleanliness or want of order4 ,every morning1 immediately after her mistress has left it1 and while breakfast is on1 she should throw the bed open1 by taking off the clothes2 open the windows 7except in rainy weather71 and leave the room to air for half an hour4 ,after breakfast1 except her attendance on her mistress prevents it1 if the rooms are carpeted1 she should sweep them carefully1 having previously strewed the room with moist tea-leaves1 dusting every table and chair1 taking care to penetrate to every corner1 and moving every article of furniture that is portable4 ,this done satisfactorily1 and having cleaned the dressing-glass1 polished up the furniture and the ornaments1 and made the glass jug and basin clean and bright1 emptied all slops1 emptied the water-jugs and filled them with fresh water1 and arranged the rooms1 the dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper to appear4 #bbfa4 ,the dressing-room thoroughly in order1 the same thing is to be done in the bedroom1 in which she will probably be assisted by the housemaid to make the bed and empty the slops4 ,in making the bed1 she will study her lady's wishes1 whether it is to be hard or soft1 sloping or straight1 and see that it is done accordingly4 #bbfb4 ,having swept the bedroom with equal care1 dusted the tables and chairs1 chimney-ornaments1 and put away all articles of dress left from yesterday1 and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery1 her next care is to see1 before her mistress goes out1 what requires replacing in her department1 and furnish her with a list of them1 that she may use her discretion about ordering them4 ,all this done1 she may settle herself down to any work on which she is engaged4 ,this will consist chiefly in mending2 which is first to be seen to2 everything1 except stockings1 being mended before washing4 ,plain work will probably be one of the lady's-maid's chief employments4 #bbfc4 ,a waiting-maid1 who wishes to make herself useful1 will study the fashion-books with attention1 so as to be able to aid her mistress's judgment in dressing1 according to the prevailing fashion1 with such modifications as her style of countenance requires4 ,she will also1 if she has her mistress's interest at heart1 employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses which have served one purpose1 to serve another also1 or turning many things1 unfitted for her mistress to use1 for the younger branches of the family4 ,the lady's-maid may thus render herself invaluable to her mistress1 and increase her own happiness in so doing4 ,the exigencies of fashion and luxury are such1 that all ladies1 except those of the very highest rank1 will consider themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person1 capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose4 #bbfd4 ,among other duties1 the lady's-maid should understand the various processes for washing1 and cleaning1 and repairing laces2 edging of collars2 removing stains and grease-spots from dresses1 and similar processes1 for which the following recipes will be found very useful4 ,in washing-- #bbfe4 ,blonde1 fine toilet-soap is used2 the blonde is soaped over very slightly1 and washed in water in which a little fig-blue is dissolved1 rubbing it very gently2 when clean1 dry it4 ,dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water1 dry it again in linen1 spread it out as flat as it will lie1 and iron it4 ,where the blonde is of better quality1 and wider1 it may be stretched on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water1 applying the gum with a sponge2 or it may be washed finally in water in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved1 which gives it more the appearance of new blonde4 #bbff4 ,lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the neck2 they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between the folds of a fine linen cloth1 then washing the edges as directed above1 and spreading it out on an ironing-board1 pinning it at each corner with fine pins2 then going carefully over it with a sponge charged with water in which some gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved1 to give it a proper consistence4 ,to give the collar the same tint throughout1 the whole collar should be sponged with the same water1 taking care not to touch the flowers4 #bbfg4 ,a multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses1 which should be removed at once4 ,to remove-- #bbfh4 ,grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials of fast colours1 absorbent pastes1 purified bullock's-blood1 and even common soap1 are used1 applied to the spot when dry4 ,when the colours are not fast1 use fuller's-earth or pulverized potter's-clay1 laid in a layer over the spot1 and press it with a very hot iron4 #bbfi4 ,for ,silks1 ,moires1 and plain or brocaded ,satins1 begin by pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine2 cover it over with a linen cloth1 and press it with a hot iron1 changing the linen instantly4 ,the spot will look tarnished1 for a portion of the grease still remains3 this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot1 and a very little rubbing4 ,if neatly done1 no perceptible mark or circle will remain2 nor will the lustre of the richest silk be changed1 the union of the two liquids operating with no injurious effects from rubbing4 #bbgj4 ,fruit-spots are removed from white and fast-coloured cottons by the use of chloride of soda4 ,commence by cold-soaping the article1 then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather dipped in the chloride1 dipping it immediately into cold water1 to prevent the texture of the article being injured4 #bbga4 ,ink-spots are removed1 when fresh applied to the spot1 by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately afterwards4 ,by the same process1 iron-mould in linen or calico may be removed1 dipping immediately in cold water to prevent injury to the fabric4 #bbgb4 ,wax dropped on a shawl1 table-cover1 or cloth dress1 is easily discharged by applying spirits of wine4 #bbgc4 ,syrups or ,preserved ,fruits1 by washing in lukewarm water with a dry cloth1 and pressing the spot between two folds of clean linen4 #bbgd4 ,essence of ,lemon will remove grease1 but will make a spot itself in a few days4 ,to clean ,silk or ,ribbons4 #bbge4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of gin1 #a_/b lb4 of honey1 #a_/b lb4 of soft soap1 #a_/b pint of water4 ,mode4--,mix the above ingredients together2 then lay each breadth of silk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser1 and scrub it well on the soiled side with the mixture4 ,have ready three vessels of cold water2 take each piece of silk at two corners1 and dip it up and down in each vessel1 but do not wring it2 and take care that each breadth has one vessel of quite clean water for the last dip4 ,hang it up dripping for a minute or two1 then dab it in a cloth1 and iron it quickly with a very hot iron4 ,to remove ,paint-spots from ,silk ,cloth4 #bbgf4 ,if the fabric will bear it1 sharp rubbing will frequently entirely discharge a newly-made paint-stain2 but1 if this is not successful1 apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear4 ,to make old ,crape look nearly equal to new4 #bbgg4 ,place a little water in a teakettle1 and let it boil until there is plenty of steam from the spout2 then1 holding the crape in both hands1 pass it to and fro several times through the steam1 and it will to clean and look nearly equal to new4 #bbgh4 ,linen4--,before sending linen to wash1 the lady's-maid should see that everything under her charge is properly mended2 for her own sake she should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner1 each class of garments by themselves1 with a proper list1 of which she retains a copy4 ,on its return1 it is still more necessary to examine every piece separately1 so that all missing buttons be supplied1 and only the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into the wardrobe4 #bbgi4 ,ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the habit of paying visits to their friends1 in which it is not unusual for the maid to accompany them2 at all events1 it is her duty to pack the trunks2 and this requires not only knowledge but some practice1 although the improved trunks and portmanteaus now made1 in which there is a place for nearly everything1 render this more simple than formerly4 ,before packing1 let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned1 and1 if necessary1 lined with paper1 and everything intended for packing laid out on the bed or chairs1 so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away2 the nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers4 ,having satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out1 and that it is in perfect order1 the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky articles1 the dressing-case and work-box1 skirts1 and other articles requiring room1 leaving the smaller articles to fill up2 finally1 having satisfied herself that all is included1 she should lock and cover up the trunk in its canvas case1 and then pack her own box1 if she is to accompany her mistress4 #bbhj4 ,on reaching the house1 the lady's-maid will be shown her lady's apartment2 and her duties here are what they were at home2 she will arrange her mistress's things1 and learn which is her bell1 in order to go to her when she rings4 ,her meals will be taken in the housekeeper's room2 and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one of her mistress or her concerns4 ,her only occupation here will be attending in her lady's room1 keeping her things in order1 and making her rooms comfortable for her4 #bbha4 ,the evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetition of those of the morning4 ,she is in attendance when her mistress retires2 she assists her to undress if required1 brushes her hair1 and renders such other assistance as is demanded2 removes all slops2 takes care that the fire1 if any1 is safe1 before she retires to rest herself4 #bbhb4 ,ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid1 and she should be able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary4 ,ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple requirements4 ,cleanliness is the first essential3 the ironing-board1 the fire1 the iron1 and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean4 ,it will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing1 as full directions are given in the ,duties of the ,laundry-maid4 ,a lady's-maid will have a great deal of ,ironing-out to do2 such as light evening dresses1 muslin dresses1 c41 which are not dirty enough to be washed1 but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases4 ,in summer1 particularly1 an iron will be constantly required1 as also a skirt-board1 which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel4 ,to keep muslin dresses in order1 they almost require smoothing out every time they are worn1 particularly if made with many flounces4 ,the lady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistress which require care2 such as restoring the colour to scorched linen1 c4 c4 ,the following recipe is1 we believe1 a very good one4 ,to restore ,whiteness to scorched ,linen4 #bbhc4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b pint of vinegar1 #b oz4 of fuller's-earth1 #a oz4 of dried fowls' dung1 #a_/b oz4 of soap1 the juice of #b large onions4 ,mode4--,boil all these ingredients together to the consistency of paste2 spread the composition thickly over the damaged part1 and if the threads be not actually consumed1 after it has been allowed to dry on1 and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice1 every trace of scorching will disappear4 #bbhd4 ,furs1 ,feathers1 and ,woollens require the constant care of the waiting-maid4 ,furs and feathers not in constant use should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye4 ,from ,may to ,september they are subject to being made the depositary of the moth-eggs4 ,they should be looked too1 and shaken and beaten1 from time to time1 in case some of the eggs should have been lodged in them1 in spite of every precaution2 laying them up again1 or rather folding them up as before1 wrapping them in brown paper1 which is itself a preservative4 ,shawls and cloaks1 which would be damaged by such close folds1 must be looked to1 and aired and beaten1 putting them away dry before the evening4 ,preservatives against the ,ravages of ,moths4 #bbhe4 ,place pieces of camphor1 cedar-wood1 ,russia leather1 tobacco-leaves1 bog-myrtle1 or anything else strongly aromatic1 in the drawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from moths are kept1 and they will never take harm4 #bbhf4 ,jewels are generally wrapped up in cotton1 and kept in their cases2 but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to the air1 and require cleaning4 ,this is done by preparing clean soap-suds1 using fine toilet-soap4 ,dip any article of gold1 silver1 gilt1 or precious stones into this lye1 and dry them by brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair1 or a fine sponge2 afterwards with a piece of fine cloth1 and1 lastly1 with a soft leather4 #bbhg4 ,epaulettes of gold or silver1 and1 in general1 all articles of jewellery1 may be dressed by dipping them in spirits of wine warmed in a bain marie1 or shallow kettle1 placed over a slow fire or hot-plate4 #bbhh4 ,the valet and lady's-maid1 from their supposed influence with their master and mistress1 are exposed to some temptations to which other servants are less subjected4 ,they are probably in communication with the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet2 such as batters1 tailors1 dressmakers1 and perfumers4 ,the conduct of waiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent1 making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality1 if any such can be made3 they should represent any inconvenience respectfully1 and if an excuse seems unreasonable1 put the matter fairly to master or mistress1 leaving it to them to notice it further1 if they think it necessary4 ,no expectations of a personal character should influence them one way or the other4 ,it would be acting unreasonably to any domestic to make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them2 the utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their judgment in the articles supplied--that they should represent them truly to master or mistress1 without fear and without favour4 ,civility to all1 servility to none1 is a good maxim for every one4 ,deference to a master and mistress1 and to their friends and visitors1 is one of the implied terms of their engagement2 and this deference must apply even to what may be considered their whims4 ,a servant is not to be seated1 or wear a hat in the house1 in his master's or mistress's presence2 nor offer any opinion1 unless asked for it2 nor even to say good night1 or good morning1 except in reply to that salutation4 ,to preserve cut ,flowers4 #bbhi4 ,a bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a long time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water1 in which a little charcoal has been steeped1 or a small piece of camphor dissolved4 ,the vase should be set upon a plate or dish1 and covered with a bell-glass1 around the edges of which1 when it comes in contact with the plate1 a little water should be poured to exclude the air4 ,to revive cut ,flowers after packing4 #bbij4 ,plunge the stems into boiling water1 and by the time the water is cold1 the flowers will have revived4 ,then cut afresh the ends of the stems1 and keep them in fresh cold water4 ,,upper ,,and ,,under ,,housemaids4 #bbia4 ,housemaids1 in large establishments1 have usually one or more assistants2 in this case they are upper and under housemaids4 ,dividing the work between them1 the upper housemaid will probably reserve for herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture of the principal apartments1 but it is her duty to see that every department is properly attended to4 ,the number of assistants depends on the number in the family1 as well as on the style in which the establishment is kept up4 ,in wealthy families it is not unusual for every grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid1 whose duty it is to keep her mistress's apartments in order1 thus abridging the housemaid's duties4 ,in others1 perhaps1 one waiting-maid attends on two or three1 when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite4 ,in fact1 every establishment has some customs peculiar to itself1 on which we need not dwell2 the general duties are the same in all1 perfect cleanliness and order being the object4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,housemaid4 #bbib4 ,cleanliness is next to godliness1 saith the proverb1 and order is in the next degree2 the housemaid1 then1 may be said to be the handmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues4 ,her duties are very numerous1 and many of the comforts of the family depend on their performance2 but they are simple and easy to a person naturally clean and orderly1 and desirous of giving satisfaction4 ,in all families1 whatever the habits of the master and mistress1 servants will find it advantageous to rise early2 their daily work will thus come easy to them4 ,if they rise late1 there is a struggle to overtake it1 which throws an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment4 ,where the master's time is regulated by early business or professional engagements1 this will1 of course1 regulate the hours of the servants2 but even where that is not the case1 servants will find great personal convenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderly and methodical manner4 ,the housemaid who studies her own ease will certainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer1 and1 probably1 half-past six or seven in the winter months1 having spent a reasonable time in her own chamber in dressing4 ,earlier than this would1 probably1 be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter4 #bbic4 ,the first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters of all the lower rooms in the house1 and take up the hearth-rugs of those rooms which she is going to do before breakfast4 ,in some families1 where there is only a cook and housemaid kept1 and where the drawing-rooms are large1 the cook has the care of the dining-room1 and the housemaid that of the breakfast-room1 library1 and drawing-rooms4 ,after the shutters are all opened1 she sweeps the breakfast-room1 sweeping the dust towards the fire-place1 of course previously removing the fonder4 ,she should then lay a cloth 7generally made of coarse wrappering7 over the carpet in front of the stove1 and on this should place her housemaid's box1 containing black-lead brushes1 leathers1 emery-paper1 cloth1 black lead1 and all utensils necessary for cleaning a grate1 with the cinder-pail on the other side4 ,illustration3 ,,carpet-,,brooms4 #bbid4 ,she now sweeps up the ashes1 and deposits them in her cinder-pail1 which is a japanned tin pail1 with a wire-sifter inside1 and a closely-fitting top4 ,in this pail the cinders are sifted1 and reserved for use in the kitchen or under the copper1 the ashes only being thrown away4 ,the cinders disposed of1 she proceeds to black-lead the grate1 producing the black lead1 the soft brush for laying it on1 her blacking and polishing brushes1 from the box which contains her tools4 ,this housemaid's box should be kept well stocked4 ,having blackened1 brushed1 and polished every part1 and made all clean and bright1 she now proceeds to lay the fire4 ,sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polish to black grates1 particularly if they have been neglected1 and allowed to rust at all4 ,brunswick black1 which is an excellent varnish for grates1 may be prepared in the following manner3-- ,illustration3 ,,stove ,,brushes4 ,illustration3 ,,housemaid',s ,,box4 #bbie4 ,,ingredients4--#a lb4 of common asphaltum1 #a_/b pint of linseed oil1 #a quart of oil of turpentine4 ,mode4--,melt the asphaltum1 and add gradually to it the other two ingredients4 ,apply this with a small painter's brush1 and leave it to become perfectly dry4 ,the grate will need no other cleaning1 but will merely require dusting every day1 and occasionally brushing with a dry black-lead brush4 ,this is1 of course1 when no fires are used4 ,when they are required1 the bars1 cheeks1 and back of the grate will need black-leading in the usual manner4 #bbif4 ,fire-lighting1 however simple1 is an operation requiring some skill2 a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at the bottom in open order2 over this a few pieces of paper1 and over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood2 over the wood1 a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal1 taking care to leave hollow spaces between for air at the centre2 and taking care to lay the whole well back in the grate1 so that the smoke may go up the chimney1 and not into the room4 ,this done1 fire the paper with a match from below1 and1 if properly laid1 it will soon burn up2 the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon communicating to the coals and cinders1 provided there is plenty of air at the centre4 #bbig4 ,a new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised with advantage1 the fire lighting from the top and burning down1 in place of being lighted and burning up from below4 ,this is arranged by laying the coals at the bottom1 mixed with a few good-sized cinders1 and the wood at the top1 with another layer of coals and some paper over it2 the paper is lighted in the usual way1 and soon burns down to a good fire1 with some economy of fuel1 as is said4 #bbih4 ,bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfect order4 ,a day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dry leather the polished parts of a grate1 as also the fender and fire-irons4 ,a careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasion ever to use emery-paper for any part but the bars1 which1 of course1 become blackened by the fire4 7,some mistresses1 to save labour1 have a double set of bars1 one set bright for the summer1 and another black set to use when fires are in requisition47 ,when bright grates are once neglected1 small rust-spots begin to show themselves1 which a plain leather will not remove2 the following method of cleaning them must then be resorted to3--,first1 thoroughly clean with emery-paper2 then take a large smooth pebble from the road1 sufficiently large to hold comfortably in the hand1 with which rub the steel backwards and forwards one way1 until the desired polish is obtained4 ,it may appear at first to scratch1 but continue rubbing1 and the result will be success4 ,the following is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steel articles3-- #bbii4 ,,ingredients4--#a tablespoonful of turpentine1 #a ditto of sweet oil1 emery powder4 ,mode4--,mix the turpentine and sweet oil together1 stirring in sufficient emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream4 ,put it on the article with a piece of soft flannel1 rub off quickly with another piece1 then polish with a little dry emery powder and clean leather4 #bcjj4 ,the several fires lighted1 the housemaid proceeds with her dusting1 and polishing the several pieces of furniture in the breakfast-parlour1 leaving no corner unvisited4 ,before sweeping the carpet1 it is a good practice to sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves1 which not only lay all dust1 but give a slightly fragrant smell to the room4 ,it is now in order for the reception of the family2 and where there is neither footman nor parlour-maid1 she now proceeds to the dressing-room1 and lights her mistress's fire1 if she is in the habit of having one to dress by4 ,her mistress is called1 hot water placed in the dressing-room for her use1 her clothes--as far as they are under the house-maid's charge--put before the fire to air1 hanging a fire-guard on the bars where there is one1 while she proceeds to prepare the breakfast4 #bcja4 ,in summer the housemaid's work is considerably abridged3 she throws open the windows of the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms1 that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied2 she prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet1 rubbing tables and chairs1 dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush1 dusting the furniture1 and beating and sweeping the rug2 she cleans the grate when necessary1 and replaces the white paper or arranges the shavings with which it is filled1 leaving everything clean and tidy for breakfast4 ,it is not enough1 however1 in cleaning furniture1 just to pass lightly over the surface2 the rims and legs of tables1 and the backs and legs of chairs and sofas1 should be rubbed vigorously daily2 if there is a book-case1 every corner of every pane and ledge requires to be carefully wiped1 so that not a speck of dust can be found in the room4 #bcjb4 ,after the breakfast-room is finished1 the housemaid should proceed to sweep down the stairs1 commencing at the top1 whilst the cook has the charge of the hall1 door-step1 and passages4 ,after this she should go into the drawing-room1 cover up every article of furniture that is likely to spoil1 with large dusting-sheets1 and put the chairs together1 by turning them seat to seat1 and1 in fact1 make as much room as possible1 by placing all the loose furniture in the middle of the room1 whilst she sweeps the corners and sides4 ,when this is accomplished1 the furniture can then be put back in its place1 and the middle of the room swept1 sweeping the dirt1 as before said1 towards the fireplace4 ,the same rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-room grates as we have just stated1 putting down the cloth1 before commencing1 to prevent the carpet from getting soiled4 ,in the country1 a room would not require sweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week2 but the housemaid should go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom1 taking up every crumb and piece she may see4 ,after the sweeping she should leave the room1 shut the door1 and proceed to lay the breakfast4 ,where there is neither footman nor parlour-maid kept1 the duty of laying the breakfast-cloth rests on the housemaid4 ,illustration3 ,,banister-,,broom4 ,illustration3 ,,staircase-,,broom4 #bcjc4 ,before laying the cloth for breakfast1 the heater of the tea-urn is to be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire2 or1 where the kettle is used1 boiled on the kitchen fire1 and then removed to the parlour1 where it is kept hot4 ,having washed herself free from the dust arising from the morning's work1 the housemaid collects the breakfast-things on her tray1 takes the breakfast-cloth from the napkin press1 and carries them all on the tray into the parlour2 arranges them on the table1 placing a sufficiency of knives1 forks1 and salt-cellars for the family1 and takes the tray back to the pantry2 gets a supply of milk1 cream1 and bread2 fills the butter-dish1 taking care that the salt is plentiful1 and soft and dry1 and that hot plates and egg-cups are ready where warm meat or eggs are served1 and that butter-knife and bread-knife are in their places4 ,and now she should give the signal for breakfast1 holding herself ready to fill the urn with hot water1 or hand the kettle1 and take in the rolls1 toast1 and other eatables1 with which the cook supplies her1 when the breakfast-room bell rings2 bearing in mind that she is never to enter the parlour with dirty hands or with a dirty apron1 and that everything is to be handed on a tray2 that she is to hand everything she may be required to supply1 on the left hand of the person she is serving1 and that all is done quietly and without bustle or hurry4 ,in some families1 where there is a large number to attend on1 the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busy upstairs in the bedrooms1 or sweeping1 dusting1 and putting the drawing-room in order4 #bcjd4 ,breakfast served1 the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers1 throws up the sashes1 if not already done1 pulls up the blinds1 throwing back curtains at the same time1 and opens the beds1 by removing the clothes1 placing them over a horse1 or1 failing that1 over the backs of chairs4 ,she now proceeds to empty the slops4 ,in doing this1 everything is emptied into the slop-pail1 leaving a little scalding-hot water for a minute in such vessels as require it2 adding a drop of turpentine to the water1 when that is not sufficient to cleanse them4 ,the basin is emptied1 well rinsed with clean water1 and carefully wiped2 the ewers emptied and washed2 finally1 the water-jugs themselves emptied out and rinsed1 and wiped dry4 ,as soon as this is done1 she should remove and empty the pails1 taking care that they also are well washed1 scalded1 and wiped as soon as they are empty4 #bcje4 ,next follows bedmaking1 at which the cook or kitchen-maid1 where one is kept1 usually assists2 but1 before beginning1 velvet chairs1 or other things injured by dust1 should be removed to another room4 ,in bedmaking1 the fancy of its occupant should be consulted2 some like beds sloping from the top towards the feet1 swelling slightly in the middle2 others1 perfectly flat3 a good housemaid will accommodate each bed to the taste of the sleeper1 taking care to shake1 beat1 and turn it well in the process4 ,some persons prefer sleeping on the mattress2 in which case a feather bed is usually beneath1 resting on a second mattress1 and a straw paillasse at the bottom4 ,in this case1 the mattresses should change places daily2 the feather bed placed on the mattress shaken1 beaten1 taken up and opened several times1 so as thoroughly to separate the feathers3 if too large to be thus handled1 the maid should shake and beat one end first1 and then the other1 smoothing it afterwards equally all over into the required shape1 and place the mattress gently over it4 ,any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put back through the seam of the tick2 she will also be careful to sew up any stitch that gives way the moment it is discovered4 ,the bedclothes are laid on1 beginning with an under blanket and sheet1 which are tucked under the mattress at the bottom4 ,the bolster is then beaten and shaken1 and put on1 the top of the sheet rolled round it1 and the sheet tucked in all round4 ,the pillows and other bedclothes follow1 and the counterpane over all1 which should fall in graceful folds1 and at equal distance from the ground all round4 ,the curtains are drawn to the head and folded neatly across the bed1 and the whole finished in a smooth and graceful manner4 ,where spring-mattresses are used1 care should be taken that the top one is turned every day4 ,the housemaid should now take up in a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet2 she should dust the room1 shut the door1 and proceed to another room4 ,when all the bedrooms are finished1 she should dust the stairs1 and polish the handrail of the banisters1 and see that all ledges1 window-sills1 c41 are quite free from dust4 ,it will be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work1 so that she may not have too much to do on certain days1 and not sufficient to fill up her time on other days4 ,in the country1 bedrooms should be swept and thoroughly cleaned once a week2 and to be methodical and regular in her work1 the housemaid should have certain days for doing certain rooms thoroughly4 ,for instance1 the drawing-room on ,monday1 two bedrooms on ,tuesday1 two on ,wednesday1 and so on1 reserving a day for thoroughly cleaning the plate1 bedroom candlesticks1 c4 c41 which she will have to do where there is no parlour-maid or footman kept4 ,by this means the work will be divided1 and there will be no unnecessary bustling and hurrying1 as is the case where the work is done any time1 without rule or regulation4 ,illustration3 ,,scrubbing-,,brush4 #bcjf4 ,once a week1 when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned1 the house-maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed before it is made2 she should then make it1 shake the curtains1 lay them smoothly on the bed1 and pin or tuck up the bottom valance1 so that she may be able to sweep under the bed4 ,she should then unloop the window-curtains1 shake them1 and pin them high up out of the way4 ,after clearing the dressing-table1 and the room altogether of little articles of china1 c4 c41 she should shake the toilet-covers1 fold them up1 and lay them on the bed1 over which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown4 ,she should then sweep the room2 first of all sprinkling the carpet with well-squeezed tea-leaves1 or a little freshly-pulled grass1 when this is obtainable4 ,after the carpet is swept1 and the grate cleaned1 she should wash with soap and water1 with a little soda in it1 the washing-table apparatus1 removing all marks or fur round the jugs1 caused by the water4 ,the water-bottles and tumblers must also have her attention1 as well as the top of the washing-stand1 which should be cleaned with soap and flannel if it be marble3 if of polished mahogany1 no soap must be used4 ,when these are all clean and arranged in their places1 the housemaid should scrub the floor where it is not covered with carpet1 under the beds1 and round the wainscot4 ,she should use as little soap and soda as possible1 as too free a use of these articles is liable to give the boards a black appearance4 ,in the country1 cold soft water1 a clean scrubbing-brush1 and a willing arm1 are all that are required to make bedroom floors look white4 ,in winter it is not advisable to scrub rooms too often1 as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly at that season of the year1 and nothing is more dangerous than to allow persons to sleep in a damp room4 ,the housemaid should now dust the furniture1 blinds1 ornaments1 c42 polish the looking-glass2 arrange the toilet-cover and muslin2 remove the cover from the bed1 and straighten and arrange the curtains and counterpane4 ,a bedroom should be cleaned like this every week4 ,there are times1 however1 when it is necessary to have the carpet up2 this should be done once a year in the country1 and twice a year in large cities4 ,the best time for these arrangements is spring and autumn1 when the bed-furniture requires changing to suit the seasons of the year4 ,after arranging the furniture1 it should all be well rubbed and polished2 and for this purpose the housemaid should provide herself with an old silk pocket-handkerchief1 to finish the polishing4 ,illustration3 ,,long ,,hair-,,broom4 #bcjg4 ,as modern furniture is now nearly always ,french-polished1 it should often be rubbed with an old silk rubber1 or a fine cloth or duster1 to keep it free from smears4 ,three or four times a year any of the following polishes may be applied with very great success1 as any of them make ,french-polished furniture look very well4 ,one precaution must be taken1--not to put too much of the polish on at one time1 and to rub1 not smear it over the articles4 ,,furniture ,,polish4 #bcjh4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/d pint of linseed-oil1 #a_/d pint of vinegar1 #a oz4 of spirits of salts1 #a_/b oz4 of muriatic antimony4 ,mode4--,mix all well together1 and shake before using4 ,,furniture ,,polish4 #bcji4 ,,ingredients4--,equal proportions of linseed-oil1 turpentine1 vinegar1 and spirits of wine4 ,mode4--,when used1 shake the mixture well1 and rub on the furniture with a piece of linen rag1 and polish with a clean duster4 ,vinegar and oil1 rubbed in with flannel1 and the furniture rubbed with a clean duster1 produce a very good polish4 ,,furniture ,,paste4 #bcaj4 ,,ingredients4--#c oz4 of common beeswax1 #a oz4 of white wax1 #a oz4 of curd soap1 #a pint of turpentine1 #a pint of boiled water4 ,illustration3 ,,furniture ,,brush4 ,mode4--,mix the ingredients together1 adding the water when cold2 shake the mixture frequently in the bottle1 and do not use it for #dh hours after it is made4 ,it should be applied with a piece of flannel1 the furniture polished with a duster1 and then with an old silk rubber4 #bcaa4 ,the chambers are finished1 the chamber candlesticks brought down and cleaned1 the parlour lamps trimmed2--and here the housemaid's utmost care is required4 ,in cleaning candlesticks1 as in every other cleaning1 she should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone2 the knife used to scrape them should be applied to no other purpose2 the tallow-grease should be thrown into a box kept for the purpose2 the same with everything connected with the lamp-trimming2 the best mode of doing which she will do well to learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil2 always bearing in mind1 however1 that without perfect cleanliness1 which involves occasional scalding1 no lamp can be kept in order4 #bcab4 ,the drawing and dining-room1 inasmuch as everything there is more costly and valuable1 require even more care4 ,when the carpets are of the kind known as velvet-pile1 they require to be swept firmly by a hard whisk brush1 made of cocoanut fibre4 #bcac4 ,the furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with a soft cloth1 that it may be left perfectly free from dust2 or where that is beyond reach1 with a brush made of long feathers1 or a goose's wing4 ,the sofas are swept in the same manner1 slightly beaten1 the cushions shaken and smoothed1 the picture-frames swept1 and everything arranged in its proper place4 ,this1 of course1 applies to dining as well as drawing-room and morning-room4 ,and now the housemaid may dress herself for the day1 and prepare for the family dinner1 at which she must attend4 #bcad4 ,we need not repeat the long instructions already given for laying the dinner-table4 ,at the family dinner1 even where no footman waits1 the routine will be the same4 ,in most families the cloth is laid with the slips on each side1 with napkins1 knives1 forks1 spoons1 and wine and finger glasses on all occasions4 ,illustration3 ,,butler',s ,,tray ,,and ,,stand4 #bcae4 ,she should ascertain that her plate is in order1 glasses free from smears1 water-bottles and decanters the same1 and everything ready on her tray1 that she may be able to lay her cloth properly4 ,few things add more to the neat and comfortable appearance of a dinner-table than well-polished plate2 indeed1 the state of the plate is a certain indication of a well-managed or ill-managed household4 ,nothing is easier than to keep plate in good order1 and yet many servants1 from stupidity and ignorance1 make it the greatest trouble of all things under their care4 ,it should be remembered1 that it is utterly impossible to make greasy silver take a polish2 and that as spoons and forks in daily use are continually in contact with grease1 they must require good washing in soap-and-water to remove it4 ,silver should be washed with a soapy flannel in one water1 rinsed in another1 and then wiped dry with a dry cloth4 ,the plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags1 as in the following directions3--,once a week all the plate should receive a thorough cleaning with the hartshorn powder1 as directed in the first recipe for cleaning plate2 and where the housemaid can find time1 rubbed every day with the plate-rags4 #bcaf4 ,hartshorn1 we may observe1 is one of the best possible ingredients for plate-powder in daily use4 ,it leaves on the silver a deep1 dark polish1 and at the same time does less injury than anything else4 ,it has also the advantage of being very cheap2 almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes containing more or less of quicksilver1 in some form or another2 and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle4 ,if any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver on plate1 he has only to rub a little of it on one place for some time1--on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance1 and he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure4 ,to ,clean ,plate4 ,a very excellent method4 ,illustration3 ,,plate-,,brush4 #bcag4 ,wash the plate well to remove all grease1 in a strong lather of common yellow soap and boiling water1 and wipe it quite dry2 then mix as much hartshorn powder as will be required1 into a thick paste1 with cold water or spirits of wine2 smear this lightly over the plate with a piece of soft rag1 and leave it for some little time to dry4 ,when perfectly dry1 brush it off quite clean with a soft plate-brush1 and polish the plate with a dry leather4 ,if the plate be very dirty1 or much tarnished1 spirits of wine will be found to answer better than the water for mixing the paste4 ,plate-rags for daily use4 #bcah4 ,boil soft rags 7nothing is better for the purpose than the tops of old cotton stockings7 in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder1 in the proportion of #a oz4 of powder to a pint of milk2 boil them for #e minutes2 wring them as soon as they are taken out1 for a moment1 in cold water1 and dry them before the fire4 ,with these rags rub the plate briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried after daily use4 ,a most beautiful deep polish will be produced1 and the plate will require nothing more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry soft cloth1 before it is again put on the table4 #bcai4 ,for waiting at table1 the housemaid should be neatly and cleanly dressed1 and1 if possible1 her dress made with closed sleeves1 the large open ones dipping and falling into everything on the table1 and being very much in the way4 ,she should not wear creaking boots1 and should move about the room as noiselessly as possible1 anticipating people's wants by handing them things without being asked for them1 and altogether be as quiet as possible4 ,it will be needless here to repeat what we have already said respecting waiting at table1 in the duties of the butler and footman3 rules that are good to be observed by them1 are equally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid4 #bcbj4 ,the housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table1 will hand the soup1 fish1 meat1 or side-dishes to the different members of the family2 but in families who do not spend much of the day together1 they will probably prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast2 the housemaid will be required1 after all are helped1 if her master does not wish her to stay in the room1 to go on with her work of cleaning up in the pantry1 and answer the bell when rung4 ,in this case she will place a pile of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter1 within reach of her master and mistress1 and leave the room4 ,illustration3 ,,crumb-,,brush4 #bcba4 ,dinner over1 the housemaid removes the plates and dishes on the tray1 places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them1 folds up the napkins in the ring which indicates by which member of the family it has been used1 brushes off the crumbs on the hand-tray kept for the purpose1 folds up the table-cloth in the folds already made1 and places it in the linen-press to be smoothed out4 ,after every meal the table should be rubbed1 all marks from hot plates removed1 and the table-cover thrown over1 and the room restored to its usual order4 ,if the family retire to the drawing-room1 or any other room1 it is a good practice to throw up the sash to admit fresh air and ventilate the room4 #bcbb4 ,the housemaid's evening service consists in washing up the dinner-things1 the plate1 plated articles1 and glasses1 restoring everything to its place2 cleaning up her pantry1 and putting away everything for use when next required2 lastly1 preparing for tea1 as the time approaches1 by setting the things out on the tray1 getting the urn or kettle ready1 with cream and other things usually partaken of at that meal4 #bcbc4 ,in summer-time the windows of all the bedrooms1 which have been closed during the heat of the day1 should be thrown open for an hour or so after sunset1 in order to air them4 ,before dark they should be closed1 the bedclothes turned down1 and the night-clothes laid in order for use when required4 ,during winter1 where fires are required in the dressing-rooms1 they should be lighted an hour before the usual time of retiring1 placing a fire-guard before each fire4 ,at the same time1 the night-things on the horse should be placed before it to be aired1 with a tin can of hot water1 if the mistress is in the habit of washing before going to bed4 ,we may add1 that there is no greater preservative of beauty than washing the face every night in hot water4 ,the housemaid will probably be required to assist her mistress to undress and put her dress in order for the morrow2 in which case her duties are very much those of the lady's-maid4 #bcbd4 ,and now the fire is made up for the night1 the fireguard replaced1 and everything in the room in order for the night1 the housemaid taking care to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenient place1 should they be required4 ,it is usual in summer to remove all highly fragrant flowers from sleeping-rooms1 the impression being that their scent is injurious in a close chamber4 #bcbe4 ,on leisure days1 the housemaid should be able to do some needlework for her mistress1--such as turning and mending sheets and darning the house linen1 or assist her in anything she may think fit to give her to do4 ,for this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid1 in a small family1 should be an expert needlewoman2 as1 if she be a good manager and an active girl1 she will have time on her hands to get through plenty of work4 #bcbf4 ,periodical ,cleanings4--,besides the daily routine which we have described1 there are portions of every house which can only be thoroughly cleaned occasionally2 at which time the whole house usually undergoes a more thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way4 ,on these occasions it is usual to begin at the top of the house and clean downwards2 moving everything out of the room2 washing the wainscoting or paint with soft soap and water2 pulling down the beds and thoroughly cleansing all the joints2 scrubbing the floor2 beating feather beds1 mattress1 and paillasse1 and thoroughly purifying every article of furniture before it is put back in its place4 #bcbg4 ,this general cleaning usually takes place in the spring or early summer1 when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light and cheerful muslin curtains4 ,carpets are at the same time taken up and beaten1 except where the mistress of the house has been worried into an experiment by the often-reiterated question1 ,why beat your carpets8 ,in this case she will probably have made up her mind to try the cleaning process1 and arranged with the company to send for them on the morning when cleaning commenced4 ,it is hardly necessary to repeat1 that on this occasion every article is to be gone over1 the ,french-polished furniture well rubbed and polished4 ,the same thorough system of cleaning should be done throughout the house2 the walls cleaned where painted1 and swept down with a soft broom or feather brush where papered2 the window and bed curtains1 which have been replaced with muslin ones1 carefully brushed1 or1 if they require it1 cleaned2 lamps not likely to be required1 washed out with hot water1 dried1 and cleaned4 ,the several grates are now to be furnished with their summer ornaments2 and we know none prettier than the following1 which the housemaid may provide at a small expense to her mistress3--,purchase two yards and a half of crinoline muslin1 and tear it into small strips1 the selvage way of the material1 about an inch wide2 strip this thread by thread on each side1 leaving the four centre threads2 this gives about six-and-thirty pieces1 fringed on each side1 which are tied together at one end1 and fastened to the trap of the register1 while the threads1 unravelled1 are spread gracefully about the grate1 the lower part of which is filled with paper shavings4 ,this makes a very elegant and very cheap ornament1 which is much stronger1 besides1 than those usually purchased4 ,illustration3 ,,cornice-,,brush4 ,illustration3 ,,house-,,pail4 ,illustration3 ,,dusting-,,brush4 #bcbh4 ,as winter approaches1 this house-cleaning will have to be repeated1 and the warm bed and window curtains replaced4 ,the process of scouring and cleaning is again necessary1 and must be gone through1 beginning at the top1 and going through the house1 down to the kitchens4 #bcbi4 ,independently of these daily and periodical cleanings1 other occupations will present themselves from time to time1 which the housemaid will have to perform4 ,when spots show on polished furniture1 they can generally be restored by soap-and-water and a sponge1 the polish being brought out by using a little polish1 and then well rubbing it4 ,again1 drawers which draw out stiffly may be made to move more easily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little soap4 #bccj4 ,chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected and replaced1 by means of a little glue applied to it4 ,liquid glue1 which is sold prepared in bottles1 is very useful to have in the house1 as it requires no melting2 and anything broken can be so quickly repaired4 #bcca4 ,breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing that can happen in a family1 and it is1 probably1 a greater annoyance to a right-minded servant than to the mistress4 ,a neat-handed housemaid may sometimes repair these breakages1 where they are not broken in very conspicuous places1 by joining the pieces very neatly together with a cement made as follows3--,dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantity of highly-rectified spirits of wine2 then soften an ounce of isinglass in warm water1 and1 finally1 dissolve it in rum or brandy1 till it forms a thick jelly4 ,mix the isinglass and gum mastic together1 adding a quarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum ammoniac2 put the whole into an earthen pipkin1 and in a warm place1 till they are thoroughly incorporated together2 pour it into a small phial1 and cork it down for use4 #bccb4 ,in using it1 dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver teaspoon over a lighted candle4 ,the broken pieces of glass or china being warmed1 and touched with the now liquid cement1 join the parts neatly together1 and hold in their places till the cement has set2 then wipe away the cement adhering to the edge of the joint1 and leave it for twelve hours without touching it3 the joint will be as strong as the china itself1 and if neatly done1 it will show no joining4 ,it is essential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with hot or cold water4 ,,useful ,,recipes ,,for ,,housemaids4 ,to clean ,marble4 #bccc4 ,mix with #a_/d pint of soap lees1 #a_/b gill of turpentine1 sufficient pipe-clay and bullock's gall to make the whole into rather a thick paste4 ,apply it to the marble with a soft brush1 and after a day or two1 when quite dry1 rub it off with a soft rag4 ,apply this a second or third time till the marble is quite clean4 ,another method4 #bccd4 ,take two parts of soda1 one of pumice-stone1 and one of finely-powdered chalk4 ,sift these through a fine sieve1 and mix them into a paste with water4 ,rub this well all over the marble1 and the stains will be removed2 then wash it with soap-and-water1 and a beautiful bright polish will be produced4 ,to clean ,floorcloth4 #bcce4 ,after having washed the floorcloth in the usual manner with a damp flannel1 wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth1 when a most beautiful polish will be brought out4 ,some persons use for rubbing a well-waxed flannel2 but this in general produces an unpleasant slipperiness1 which is not the case with the milk4 ,to clean ,decanters4 #bccf4 ,roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper2 wet them1 and soap them well4 ,put them into the decanters about one quarter full of warm water2 shake them well for a few minutes1 then rinse with clear cold water2 wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth1 put the decanters to drain1 and when dry they will be almost as bright as new ones4 ,to brighten ,gilt ,frames4 #bccg4 ,take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about #a-a_/b pint of water1 and in this boil #d or #e bruised onions1 or garlic1 which will answer the same purpose4 ,strain off the liquid1 and with it1 when cold1 wash1 with a soft brush1 any gilding which requires restoring1 and when dry it will come out as bright as new work4 ,to preserve bright ,grates or ,fire-irons from ,rust4 #bcch4 ,make a strong paste of fresh lime and water1 and with a fine brush smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiring preservation4 ,by this simple means1 all the grates and fire-irons in an empty house may be kept for months free from harm1 without further care or attention4 ,german ,furniture-,gloss4 #bcci4 ,,ingredients4--#a_/b lb4 yellow wax1 #a oz4 black rosin1 #b oz4 of oil of turpentine4 ,mode4--,cut the wax into small pieces1 and melt it in a pipkin1 with the rosin pounded very fine4 ,stir in gradually1 while these two ingredients are quite warm1 the oil of turpentine4 ,keep this composition well covered for use in a tin or earthen pot4 ,a little of this gloss should be spread on a piece of coarse woollen cloth1 and the furniture well rubbed with it2 afterwards it should be polished with a fine cloth4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,maid-,,of-,,all-,,work4 #bcdj4 ,the general servant1 or maid-of-all-work1 is perhaps the only one of her class deserving of commiseration3 her life is a solitary one1 and in1 some places1 her work is never done4 ,she is also subject to rougher treatment than either the house or kitchen-maid1 especially in her earlier career3 she starts in life1 probably a girl of thirteen1 with some small tradesman's wife as her mistress1 just a step above her in the social scale2 and although the class contains among them many excellent1 kind-hearted women1 it also contains some very rough specimens of the feminine gender1 and to some of these it occasionally falls to give our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifarious occupations3 the mistress's commands are the measure of the maid-of-all-work's duties4 ,by the time she has become a tolerable servant1 she is probably engaged in some respectable tradesman's house1 where she has to rise with the lark1 for she has to do in her own person all the work which in larger establishments is performed by cook1 kitchen-maid1 and housemaid1 and occasionally the part of a footman's duty1 which consists in carrying messages4 #bcda4 ,the general servant's duties commence by opening the shutters 7and windows1 if the weather permits7 of all the lower apartments in the house2 she should then brush up her kitchen-range1 light the fire1 clear away the ashes1 clean the hearth1 and polish with a leather the bright parts of the range1 doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible1 that no more time be wasted than is necessary4 ,after putting on the kettle1 she should then proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get it in order for breakfast4 ,she should first roll up the rug1 take up the fender1 shake and fold up the table-cloth1 then sweep the room1 carrying the dirt towards the fireplace2 a coarse cloth should then be laid down over the carpet1 and she should proceed to clean the grate1 having all her utensils close to her4 ,when the grate is finished1 the ashes cleared away1 the hearth cleaned1 and the fender put back in its place1 she must dust the furniture1 not omitting the legs of the tables and chairs2 and if there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard1 she must not dust round them1 but lift them up on to another place1 dust well where they have been standing1 and then replace the things4 ,nothing annoys a particular mistress so much as to find1 when she comes down stairs1 different articles of furniture looking as if they had never been dusted4 ,if the servant is at all methodical1 and gets into a habit of doing a room in a certain way1 she will scarcely ever leave her duties neglected4 ,after the rug is put down1 the table-cloth arranged1 and everything in order1 she should lay the cloth for breakfast1 and then shut the dining-room door4 #bcdb4 ,the hall must now be swept1 the mats shaken1 the door-step cleaned1 and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather4 ,if the family breakfast very early1 the tidying of the hall must then be deferred till after that meal4 ,after cleaning the boots that are absolutely required1 the servant should now wash her hands and face1 put on a clean white apron1 and be ready for her mistress when she comes down stairs4 ,in families where there is much work to do before breakfast1 the master of the house frequently has two pairs of boots in wear1 so that they may be properly cleaned when the servant has more time to do them1 in the daytime4 ,this arrangement is1 perhaps1 scarcely necessary in the summer-time1 when there are no grates to clean every morning2 but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and thoughtful to lighten a servant-of-all-work's duties as much as possible4 ,illustration3 ,,blacking-,,brush ,,box4 #bcdc4 ,she will now carry the urn into the dining-room1 where her mistress will make the tea or coffee1 and sometimes will boil the eggs1 to insure them being done to her liking4 ,in the mean time the servant cooks1 if required1 the bacon1 kidneys1 fish1 c42--if cold meat is to be served1 she must always send it to table on a clean dish1 and nicely garnished with tufts of parsley1 if this is obtainable4 #bcdd4 ,after she has had her own breakfast1 and whilst the family are finishing theirs1 she should go upstairs into the bedrooms1 open all the windows1 strip the clothes off the beds1 and leave them to air whilst she is clearing away the breakfast things4 ,she should then take up the crumbs in a dustpan from under the table1 put the chairs in their places1 and sweep up the hearth4 #bcde4 ,the breakfast things washed up1 the kitchen should be tidied1 so that it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders for the day3 after receiving these orders1 the servant should go upstairs again1 with a jug of boiling water1 the slop-pail1 and two cloths4 ,after emptying the slops1 and scalding the vessels with the boiling water1 and wiping them thoroughly dry1 she should wipe the top of the wash-table and arrange it all in order4 ,she then proceeds to make the beds1 in which occupation she is generally assisted by the mistress1 or1 if she have any daughters1 by one of them4 ,before commencing to make the bed1 the servant should put on a large bed-apron1 kept for this purpose only1 which should be made very wide1 to button round the waist and meet behind1 while it should be made as long as the dress4 ,by adopting this plan1 the blacks and dirt on servants' dresses 7which at all times it is impossible to help7 will not rub off on to the bed-clothes1 mattresses1 and bed furniture4 ,when the beds are made1 the rooms should be dusted1 the stairs lightly swept down1 hall furniture1 closets1 c41 dusted4 ,the lady of the house1 where there is but one servant kept1 frequently takes charge of the drawing-room herself1 that is to say1 dusting it2 the servant sweeping1 cleaning windows1 looking-glasses1 grates1 and rough work of that sort4 ,if there are many ornaments and knick-knacks about the room1 it is certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself1 as a maid-of-all-work's hands are not always in a condition to handle delicate ornaments4 #bcdf4 ,now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is in order1 the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of the dinner1 in which very often her mistress will assist her4 ,she should put on a coarse apron with a bib to do her dirty work in1 which may be easily replaced by a white one if required4 #bcdg4 ,half an hour before dinner is ready1 she should lay the cloth1 that everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner1 and take all into the dining-room that is likely to be required1 in the way of knives1 forks1 spoons1 bread1 salt1 water1 c4 c4 ,by exercising a little forethought1 much confusion and trouble may be saved both to mistress and servant1 by getting everything ready for the dinner in good time4 #bcdh4 ,after taking in the dinner1 when every one is seated1 she removes the covers1 hands the plates round1 and pours out the beer2 and should be careful to hand everything on the left side of the person she is waiting on4 #bcdi4 ,we need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in the dining-room during the whole of dinner-time1 as she must dish up her pudding1 or whatever is served after the first course4 ,when she sees every one helped1 she should leave the room to make her preparations for the next course2 and anything that is required1 such as bread1 c41 people may assist themselves to in the absence of the servant4 #bcej4 ,when the dinner things are cleared away1 the servant should sweep up the crumbs in the dining-room1 sweep the hearth1 and lightly dust the furniture1 then sit down to her own dinner4 ,illustration3 ,,knife-,,cleaning ,,machine #bcea4 ,after this1 she washes up and puts away the dinner things1 sweeps the kitchen1 dusts and tidies it1 and puts on the kettle for tea4 ,she should now1 before dressing herself for the afternoon1 clean her knives1 boots1 and shoes1 and do any other dirty work in the scullery that may be necessary4 ,knife-cleaning machines are rapidly taking the place1 in most households1 of the old knife-board4 ,the saving of labour by the knife-cleaner is very great1 and its performance of the work is very satisfactory4 ,small and large machines are manufactured1 some cleaning only four knives1 whilst others clean as many as twelve at once4 ,nothing can be more simple than the process of machine knife-cleaning2 and although1 in a very limited household1 the substitution of the machine for the board may not be necessary1 yet we should advise all housekeepers1 to whom the outlay is not a difficulty1 to avail themselves of the services of a machine4 ,we have already spoken of its management in the ,duties of the ,footman1 ,no4 #bagg4 #bceb4 ,when the servant is dressed1 she takes in the tea1 and after tea turns down the beds1 sees that the water-jugs and bottles are full1 closes the windows1 and draws down the blinds4 ,if the weather is very warm1 these are usually left open until the last thing at night1 to cool the rooms4 #bcec4 ,the routine of a general servant's duties depends upon the kind of situation she occupies2 but a systematic maid-of-all-work should so contrive to divide her work1 that every day in the week may have its proper share4 ,by this means she is able to keep the house clean with less fatigue to herself than if she left all the cleaning to do at the end of the week4 ,supposing there are five bedrooms in the house1 two sitting-rooms1 kitchen1 scullery1 and the usual domestic offices3--on ,monday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room2 on ,tuesday1 two of the bedrooms2 on ,wednesday1 two more2 on ,thursday1 the other bedroom and stairs2 on ,friday morning she should sweep the dining-room very thoroughly1 clean the hall1 and in the afternoon her kitchen tins and bright utensils4 ,by arranging her work in this manner1 no undue proportion will fall to ,saturday's share1 and she will then have this day for cleaning plate1 cleaning her kitchen1 and arranging everything in nice order4 ,the regular work must1 of course1 be performed in the usual manner1 as we have endeavoured to describe4 #bced4 ,before retiring to bed1 she will do well to clean up glasses1 plates1 c4 which have been used for the evening meal1 and prepare for her morning's work by placing her wood near the fire1 on the hob1 to dry1 taking care there is no danger of it igniting1 before she leaves the kitchen for the night4 ,before retiring1 she will have to lock and bolt the doors1 unless the master undertakes this office himself4 #bcee4 ,if the washing1 or even a portion of it1 is done at home1 it will be impossible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household duties thoroughly1 during the time it is about1 unless she have some assistance4 ,usually1 if all the washing is done at home1 the mistress hires some one to assist at the wash-tub1 and sees to little matters herself1 in the way of dusting1 clearing away breakfast things1 folding1 starching1 and ironing the fine things4 ,with a little management much can be accomplished1 provided the mistress be industrious1 energetic1 and willing to lend a helping hand4 ,let washing-week be not the excuse for having everything in a muddle2 and although things cannot be cleaned so thoroughly1 and so much time spent upon them1 as ordinarily1 yet the house may be kept tidy and clear from litter without a great deal of exertion either on the part of the mistress or servant4 ,we will conclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably-written book1 called ,home ,truths for ,home ,peace4 ,the authoress says1 with respect to the great wash--,amongst all the occasions in which it is most difficult and glorious to keep muddle out of a family1 'the great wash' stands pre-eminent2 and as very little money is now saved by having everything done at home1 many ladies1 with the option of taking another servant or putting out the chief part of the washing1 have thankfully adopted the latter course4 ,she goes on to say--,when a gentleman who dines at home can't bear washing in the house1 but gladly pays for its being done elsewhere1 the lady should gratefully submit to his wishes1 and put out anything in her whole establishment rather than put out a good and generous husband4 #bcef4 ,a bustling and active girl will always find time to do a little needlework for herself1 if she lives with consistent and reasonable people4 ,in the summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two or three hours1 and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days4 ,a general servant's duties are so multifarious1 that unless she be quick and active1 she will not be able to accomplish this4 ,to discharge these various duties properly is a difficult task1 and sometimes a thankless office2 but it must be remembered that a good maid-of-all-work will make a good servant in any capacity1 and may be safely taken not only without fear of failure1 but with every probability of giving satisfaction to her employer4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,dairy-,,maid4 #bceg4 ,the duties of the dairy-maid differ considerably in different districts4 ,in ,scotland1 ,wales1 and some of the northern counties1 women milk the cows4 ,on some of the large dairy farms in other parts of ,england1 she takes her share in the milking1 but in private families the milking is generally performed by the cowkeeper1 and the dairy-maid only receives the milkpails from him morning and night1 and empties and cleans them preparatory to the next milking2 her duty being to supply the family with milk1 cream1 and butter1 and other luxuries depending on the milky mothers of the herd4 #bceh4 ,the ,dairy4--,the object with which gentlemen keep cows is to procure milk unadulterated1 and sweet butter1 for themselves and families3 in order to obtain this1 however1 great cleanliness is required1 and as visitors1 as well as the mistress of the house1 sometimes visit the dairy1 some efforts are usually made to render it ornamental and picturesque4 ,the locality is usually fixed near to the house2 it should neither be exposed to the fierce heat of the summer's sun nor to the equally unfavourable frosts of winter--it must be both sheltered and shaded4 ,if it is a building apart from the house and other offices1 the walls should be tolerably thick1 and if hollow1 the temperature will be more equable4 ,the walls inside are usually covered with ,dutch glazed tiles2 the flooring also of glazed tiles set in asphalte1 to resist water2 and the ceiling1 lath and plaster1 or closely-jointed woodwork1 painted4 ,its architecture will be a matter of fancy3 it should have a northern aspect1 and a thatched roof is considered most suitable1 from the shade and shelter it affords2 and it should contain at least two apartments1 besides a cool place for storing away butter4 ,one of the apartments1 in which the milk is placed to deposit cream1 or to ripen for churning1 is usually surrounded by shelves of marble or slate1 on which the milk-dishes rest2 but it will be found a better plan to have a large square or round table of stone in the centre1 with a water-tight ledge all round it1 in which water may remain in hot weather1 or1 if some attempt at the picturesque is desired1 a small fountain might occupy the centre1 which would keep the apartment cool and fresh4 ,round this table the milk-dishes should be ranged2 one shelf1 or dresser1 of slate or marble1 being kept for the various occupations of the dairy-maid3 it will be found a better plan than putting them on shelves and corners against the wall4 ,there should be a funnel or ventilator in the ceiling1 communicating with the open air1 made to open and shut as required4 ,double windows are recommended1 but of the lattice kind1 so that they may open1 and with wire-gauze blinds fitted into the opening1 and calico blinds1 which may be wetted when additional coolness is required4 ,the other apartment will be used for churning1 washing1 and scrubbing--in fact1 the scullery of the dairy1 with a boiler for hot water1 and a sink with cold water laid on1 which should be plentiful and good4 ,in some dairies a third apartment1 or1 at least1 a cool airy pantry1 is required for storing away butter1 with shelves of marble or slate1 to hold the cream-jars while it is ripening2 and where cheeses are made1 a fourth becomes necessary4 ,the dairy utensils are not numerous1--churns1 milk-pails for each cow1 hair-sieves1 slices of tin1 milk-pans1 marble dishes for cream for family use1 scales and weights1 a portable rack for drying the utensils1 wooden bowls1 butter-moulds and butter-patters1 and wooden tubs for washing the utensils1 comprising pretty nearly everything4 #bcei4 ,pails are made of maple-wood or elm1 and hooped1 or of tin1 more or less ornamented4 ,one is required for each cow4 #bcfj4 ,the ,hair-,sieve is made of closely-twisted horse-hair1 with a rim1 through which the milk is strained to remove any hairs which may have dropped from the cow in milking4 #bcfa4 ,milk-,dishes are shallow basins of glass1 of glazed earthenware1 or tin1 about #af inches in diameter at top1 and #ab at the bottom1 and #e or #f inches deep1 holding about #h to #aj quarts each when full4 #bcfb4 ,churns are of all sorts and sizes1 from that which churns #gj or #hj gallons by means of a strap from the engine1 to the square box in which a pound of butter is made4 ,the churn used for families is a square box1 #ah inches by #ab or #ac1 and #ag deep1 bevelled below to the plane of the dashers1 with a loose lid or cover4 ,the dasher consists of an axis of wood1 to which the four beaters or fanners are attached2 these fans are simply four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together1 forming an oblong square1 with a space left open1 two of the openings being left broader than the others2 attached to an axle1 they form an axis with four projecting blades2 the axle fits into supports at the centre of the box2 a handle is fitted to it1 and the act of churning is done by turning the handle4 #bcfc4 ,such is the temple in which the dairy-maid presides3 it should be removed both from stable and cowhouse1 and larder2 no animal smells should come near it1 and the drainage should be perfect4 #bcfd4 ,the dairy-maid receives the milk from the cowkeeper1 each pail being strained through the hair-sieve into one of the milk-basins4 ,this is left in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the summer1 according to the weather2 after which it is skimmed off by means of the slicer1 and poured into glazed earthenware jars to turn for churning4 ,some persons prefer making up a separate churning for the milk of each cow2 in which there is some advantage4 ,in this case the basins of each cow1 for two days1 would either be kept together or labelled4 ,as soon as emptied1 the pails should be scalded and every particle of milk washed out1 and placed away in a dry place till next required2 and all milk spilt on the floor1 or on the table or dresser1 cleaned up with a cloth and hot water4 ,where very great attention is paid to the dairy1 the milk-coolers are used larger in winter1 when it is desirable to retard the cooling down and increase the creamy deposit1 and smaller in summer1 to hasten it2 the temperature required being from #ee to #ej1 ,in summer it is sometimes expedient1 in very sultry weather1 to keep the dairy fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of lime across the room4 #bcfe4 ,in some dairies it is usual to churn twice1 and in others three times a week3 the former produces the best butter1 the other the greatest quantity4 ,with three cows1 the produce should be #bg to #cj quarts a day4 ,the dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot1 if they are in full milk1 and every second day in more temperate weather2 besides supplying the milk and cream required for a large establishment4 ,the churning should always be done in the morning3 the dairy-maid will find it advantageous in being at work on churning mornings by five o'clock4 ,the operation occupies from #bj minutes to half an hour in summer1 and considerably longer in winter4 ,a steady uniform motion is necessary to produce sweet butter2 neither too quick nor too slow4 ,rapid motion causes the cream to heave and swell1 from too much air being forced into it3 the result is a tedious churning1 and soft1 bad-coloured butter4 #bcff4 ,in spring and summer1 when the cow has her natural food1 no artificial colour is required2 but in winter1 under stall-feeding1 the colour is white and tallowy1 and some persons prefer a higher colour4 ,this is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the cream before putting it into the churn2 a still more1 natural and delicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a clean piece of linen cloth1 dipping it into water1 and squeezing it into the cream4 #bcfg4 ,as soon as the butter comes1 the milk is poured off1 and the butter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl1 full of pure spring water1 in which it is washed and kneaded1 pouring off the water1 and renewing it until it comes away perfectly free from milk4 ,imperfect washing is the frequent cause of bad butter1 and in nothing is the skill of the dairy-maid tested more than in this process2 moreover1 it is one in which cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary4 ,in this operation we want the aid of ,phyllis's neat1 soft1 and perfectly clean hand2 for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sour particles of milk or curd4 #bcfh4 ,the operations of churning and butter-making over1 the butter-milk is disposed of3 usually1 in ,england1 it goes to the pigs2 but it is a1 very wholesome beverage when fresh1 and some persons like it2 the disposal1 therefore1 will rest with the mistress3 the dairy-maid's duty is to get rid of it4 ,she must then scald with boiling water and scrub out every utensil she has used2 brush out the churn1 clean out the cream-jars1 which will probably require the use of a little common soda to purify2 wipe all dry1 and place them in a position where the sun can reach them for a short time1 to sweeten them4 #bcfi4 ,in ,devonshire1 celebrated for its dairy system1 the milk is always scalded4 ,the milk-pans1 which are of tin1 and contain from #aj to #ab quarts1 after standing #aj or #ab hours1 are placed on a hot plate of iron1 over a stove1 until the cream has formed on the surface1 which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising through the milk1 and producing blisters on the surface-coating of cream4 ,this indicates its approach to the boiling point3 and the vessel is now removed to cool4 ,when sufficiently1 that is1 quite cool1 the cream is skimmed off with the slice3 it is now the clouted cream for which ,devonshire is so famous4 ,it is now placed in the churn1 and churned until the butter comes1 which it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other process4 ,the butter so made contains more caseine than butter made in the usual way1 but does not keep so long4 #bcgj4 ,it is a question frequently discussed1 how far it is economical for families to keep cows and make their own butter4 ,it is calculated that a good cow costs from ,may #a to ,october #a1 when well but economically kept1 #e4 #afs4 #f;d2 and from ,october #a to ,april #cj1 #aj4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,during that time she should produce #bbg lbs4 of butter1 besides the skimmed milk4 ,of course1 if new milk and cream are required1 that will diminish the quantity of butter4 #bcga4 ,besides churning and keeping her dairy in order1 the dairy-maid has charge of the whole produce1 handing it over to the cook1 butler1 or housemaid as required2 and she will do well to keep an exact account both of what she receives and how and when she disposes of it4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,laundry-,,maid4 #bcgb4 ,the laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing and getting-up the family linen1--a situation of great importance where the washing is all done at home2 but in large towns1 where there is little convenience for bleaching and drying1 it is chiefly done by professional laundresses and companies1 who apply mechanical and chemical processes to the purpose4 ,these processes1 however1 are supposed to injure the fabric of the linen2 and in many families the fine linen1 cottons1 and muslins1 are washed and got-up at home1 even where the bulk of the washing is given out4 ,in country and suburban houses1 where greater conveniences exist1 washing at home is more common1--in country places universal4 #bcgc4 ,the laundry establishment consists of a washing-house1 an ironing and drying-room1 and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces4 ,the washing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen2 but it is better that it should be completely detached from it1 and of one story1 with a funnel or shaft to carry off the steam4 ,it will be of a size proportioned to the extent of the washing to be done4 ,a range of tubs1 either round or oblong1 opposite to1 and sloping towards1 the light1 narrower at the bottom than the top1 for convenience in stooping over1 and fixed at a height suited to the convenience of the women using them2 each tub having a tap for hot and cold water1 and another in the bottom1 communicating with the drains1 for drawing off foul water4 ,a boiler and furnace1 proportioned in size to the wants of the family1 should also be fixed4 ,the flooring should be ,york stone1 laid on brick piers1 with good drainage1 or asphalte1 sloping gently towards a gutter connected with the drain4 #bcgd4 ,adjoining the bleaching-house1 a second room1 about the same size1 is required for ironing1 drying1 and mangling4 ,the contents of this room should comprise an ironing-board1 opposite to the light2 a strong white deal table1 about twelve or fourteen feet long1 and about three and a half feet broad1 with drawers for ironing-blankets2 a mangle in one corner1 and clothes-horses for drying and airing2 cupboards for holding the various irons1 starch1 and other articles used in ironing2 a hot-plate built in the chimney1 with furnace beneath it for heating the irons2 sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying the hot air round the room for drying4 ,where this is the case1 however1 there should be a funnel in the ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam2 but a better arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining1 heated by hot-air pipes1 and lined with iron1 with proper arrangements for carrying off steam1 and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves1 to run into it for drying purposes4 ,this leaves the laundry free from unwholesome vapour4 #bcge4 ,the laundry-maid should commence her labours on ,monday morning by a careful examination of the articles committed to her care1 and enter them in the washing-book2 separating the white linen and collars1 sheets and body-linen1 into one heap1 fine muslins into another1 coloured cotton and linen fabrics into a third1 woollens into a fourth1 and the coarser kitchen and other greasy cloths into a fifth4 ,every article should be examined for ink- or grease-spots1 or for fruit- or wine-stains4 ,ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot water1 and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon1 pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink-spot1 rubbing and rinsing it in cold water till removed2 grease-spots1 by rubbing over with yellow soap1 and rinsing in hot water2 fruit- and wine-spots1 by dipping in a solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine1 and rinsing4 #bcgf4 ,every article having been examined and assorted1 the sheets and fine linen should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered with lukewarm water1 in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed1 and left there to soak till the morning4 ,the greasy cloths and dirtier things should be laid to soak in another tub1 in a liquor composed of #a_/b lb4 of unslaked lime to every #f quarts of water which has been boiled for two hours1 then left to settle1 and strained off when clear4 ,each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it thoroughly1 and left to soak till the morning1 just covered by it when the things are pressed together4 ,coppers and boilers should now be filled1 and the fires laid ready to light4 #bcgg4 ,early on the following morning the fires should be lighted1 and as soon as hot water can be procured1 washing commenced2 the sheets and body-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning1 should be taken first2 each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it has been soaking1 rinsed1 rubbed1 and wrung1 and laid aside until the tub is empty1 when the foul water is drawn off4 ,the tub should be again filled with luke-warm water1 about #hj1 in which the articles should again be plunged1 and each gone over carefully with soap1 and rubbed4 ,novices in the art sometimes rub the linen against the skin2 more experienced washerwomen rub one linen surface against the other1 which saves their hands1 and enables them to continue their labour much longer1 besides economizing time1 two parts being thus cleaned at once4 #bcgh4 ,after this first washing1 the linen should be put into a second water as hot as the hand can bear1 and again rubbed over in every part1 examining every part for spots not yet moved1 which require to be again soaped over and rubbed till thoroughly clean2 then rinsed and wrung1 the larger and stronger articles by two of the women2 the smaller and more delicate articles requiring gentler treatment4 #bcgi4 ,in order to remove every particle of soap1 and produce a good colour1 they should now be placed1 and boiled for about an hour and a half in the copper1 in which soda1 in the proportion of a teaspoonful to every two gallons of water1 has been dissolved4 ,some very careful laundresses put the linen into a canvas bag to protect it from the scum and the sides of the copper4 ,when taken out1 it should again be rinsed1 first in clean hot water1 and then in abundance of cold water slightly tinged with fig-blue1 and again wrung dry4 ,it should now be removed from the washing-house and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach1 if there are conveniences for it2 and the earlier in the day this is done1 the clearer and whiter will be the linen4 #bchj4 ,coloured muslins1 cottons1 and linens1 require a milder treatment2 any application of soda will discharge the colour1 and soaking all night1 even in pure water1 deteriorates the more delicate tints4 ,when ready for washing1 if not too dirty1 they should be put into cold water and washed very speedily1 using the common yellow soap1 which should be rinsed off immediately4 ,one article should be washed at a time1 and rinsed out immediately before any others are wetted4 ,when washed thoroughly1 they should be rinsed in succession in soft water1 in which common salt has been dissolved1 in the proportion of a handful to three or four gallons1 and afterwards wrung gently1 as soon as rinsed1 with as little twisting as possible1 and then hung out to dry4 ,delicate-coloured articles should not be exposed to the sun1 but dried in the shade1 using clean lines and wooden pegs4 #bcha4 ,woollen articles are liable to shrink1 unless the flannel has been well shrunk before making up4 ,this liability is increased where very hot water is used3 cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in2 but1 as this would not remove the dirt1 lukewarm water1 about #he1 and yellow soap1 are recommended4 ,when thoroughly washed in this1 they require a good deal of rinsing in cold water1 to remove the soap4 #bchb4 ,greasy cloths1 which have soaked all night in the liquid described1 should be now washed out with soap-and-water as hot as the hands can bear1 first in one water1 and rinsed out in a second2 and afterwards boiled for two hours in water in which a little soda is dissolved4 ,when taken out1 they should be rinsed in cold water1 and laid out or hung up to dry4 #bchc4 ,silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone4 ,when they contain snuff1 they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two or three hours2 they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the others in cold water for an hour or two2 then washed in lukewarm water1 being soaped as they are washed4 ,if this does not remove all stains1 they should be washed a second time in similar water1 and1 when finished1 rinsed in soft water in which a handful of common salt has been dissolved4 ,in washing stuff or woollen dresses1 the band at the waist and the lining at the bottom should be removed1 and wherever it is gathered into folds2 and1 in furniture1 the hems and gatherings4 ,a black silk dress1 if very dirty1 must be washed2 but1 if only soiled1 soaking for four-and-twenty hours will do2 if old and rusty1 a pint of common spirits should be mixed with each gallon of water1 which is an improvement under any circumstances4 ,whether soaked or washed1 it should be hung up to drain1 and dried without wringing4 #bchd4 ,satin and silk ribbons1 both white and coloured1 may be cleaned in the same manner4 #bche4 ,silks1 when washed1 should be dried in the shade1 on a linen-horse1 taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled4 ,if black or blue1 they will be improved if laid again on the table1 when dry1 and sponged with gin1 or whiskey1 or other white spirit4 #bchf4 ,the operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs1 cleaning the coppers1 scrubbing the floors of the washing-house1 and restoring everything to order and cleanliness4 #bchg4 ,thursday and ,friday1 in a laundry in full employ1 are usually devoted to mangling1 starching1 and ironing4 #bchh4 ,linen1 cotton1 and other fabrics1 after being washed and dried1 are made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing4 ,the mangling process1 which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to a very considerable pressure1 produced by weight1 is confined to sheets1 towels1 table-linen1 and similar articles1 which are without folds or plaits4 ,ironing is necessary to smooth body-linen1 and made-up articles of delicate texture or gathered into folds4 ,the mangle is too well known to need description4 #bchi4 ,ironing4--,the irons consist of the common flat-iron1 which is of different sizes1 varying from #d to #aj inches in length1 triangular in form1 and from #b-a_/b to #d-a_/b inches in width at the broad end2 the oval iron1 which is used for more delicate articles2 and the box-iron1 which is hollow1 and heated by a red-hot iron inserted into the box4 ,the ,italian iron is a hollow tube1 smooth on the outside1 and raised on a slender pedestal with a footstalk4 ,into the hollow cylinder a red-hot iron is pushed1 which heats it2 and the smooth outside of the latter is used1 on which articles such as frills1 and plaited articles1 are drawn4 ,crimping- and gauffering-machines are used for a kind of plaiting where much regularity is required1 the articles being passed through two iron rollers fluted so as to represent the kind of plait or fold required4 #bcij4 ,starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated to certain parts of linen1 as the collar and front of shirts1 by dipping them in a paste made of starch boiled in water1 mixed with a little gum ,arabic1 where extra stiffness is required4 ,,to ,,make ,,starch4 #bcia4 ,,ingredients4--,allow #a_/b pint of cold water and #a quart of boiling water to every #b tablespoonfuls of starch4 ,mode4--,put the starch into a tolerably large basin2 pour over it the cold water1 and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it is perfectly free from lumps1 and quite smooth4 ,then take the basin to the fire1 and whilst the water is actually boiling in the kettle or boiler1 pour it over the starch1 stirring it the whole time4 ,if made properly in this manner1 the starch will require no further boiling2 but should the water not be boiling when added to the starch1 it will not thicken1 and must be put into a clean saucepan1 and stirred over the fire until it boils4 ,take it off the fire1 strain it into a clean basin1 cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top1 and1 when sufficiently cool that the hand may be borne in it1 starch the things4 ,many persons1 to give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed1 stir round two or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle1 which also prevents the iron from sticking4 #bcib4 ,when the things to be starched are washed1 dried1 and taken off the lines1 they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed1 squeezed out of it1 and then just dipped into cold water1 and immediately squeezed dry4 ,if fine things be wrung1 or roughly used1 they are very liable to tear2 so too much care cannot be exercised in this respect4 ,if the article is lace1 clap it between the hands a few times1 which will assist to clear it2 then have ready laid out on the table a large clean towel or cloth2 shake out the starched things1 lay them on the cloth1 and roll it up tightly1 and let it remain for three or fours1 when the things will be ready to iron4 #bcic4 ,to be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience4 ,strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed1 as1 if this is not the case1 not the most expert ironer will be able to make her things look clear and free from smears1 c4 ,after wiping down her ironing table1 the laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it1 and over that the ironing-blanket1 with her stand and iron-rubber2 and having ascertained that her irons are quite clean and of the right heat1 she proceeds with her work4 #bcid4 ,it is a good plan to try the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth or apron before ironing anything fine3 there is then no danger of scorching4 ,for ironing fine things1 such as collars1 cuffs1 muslins1 and laces1 there is nothing so clean and nice to use as the box-iron2 the bottom being bright1 and never placed near the fire1 it is always perfectly clean2 it should1 however1 be kept in a dry place1 for fear of its rusting4 ,gauffering-tongs or irons must be placed in a clear fire for a minute1 then withdrawn1 wiped with a coarse rubber1 and the heat of them tried on a piece of paper1 as1 unless great care is taken1 these will very soon scorch4 #bcie4 ,the skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-board covered with flannel1 and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board1 also covered with flannel2 this board being placed between the back and front4 #bcif4 ,after things are mangled1 they should also be ironed in the folds and gathers2 dinner-napkins smoothed over1 as also table-cloths1 pillow-cases1 and sometimes sheets4 ,the bands of flannel petticoats1 and shoulder-straps to flannel waistcoats1 must also undergo the same process4 ,,upper ,,and ,,under ,,nursemaids4 #bcig4 ,the nursery is of great importance in every family1 and in families of distinction1 where there are several young children1 it is an establishment kept apart from the rest of the family1 under the charge of an upper nurse1 assisted by under nursery-maids proportioned to the work to be done4 ,the responsible duties of upper nursemaid commence with the weaning of the child3 it must now be separated from the mother or wet-nurse1 at least for a time1 and the cares of the nursemaid1 which have hitherto been only occasionally put in requisition1 are now to be entirely devoted to the infant4 ,she washes1 dresses1 and feeds it2 walks out with it1 and regulates all its little wants2 and1 even at this early age1 many good qualities are required to do so in a satisfactory manner4 ,patience and good temper are indispensable qualities2 truthfulness1 purity of manners1 minute cleanliness1 and docility and obedience1 almost equally so4 ,she ought also to be acquainted with the art of ironing and trimming little caps1 and be handy with her needle4 #bcih4 ,there is a considerable art in carrying an infant comfortably for itself and for the nursemaid4 ,if she carry it always seated upright on her arm1 and presses it too closely against her chest1 the stomach of the child is apt to get compressed1 and the back fatigued4 ,for her own comfort1 a good nurse will frequently vary this position1 by changing from one arm to the other1 and sometimes by laying it across both1 raising the head a little4 ,when teaching it to walk1 and guiding it by the hand1 she should change the hand from time to time1 so as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other4 ,this is the only way in which a child should be taught to walk2 leading-strings and other foolish inventions1 which force an infant to make efforts1 with its shoulders and head forward1 before it knows how to use its limbs1 will only render it feeble1 and retard its progress4 #bcii4 ,most children have some bad habit1 of which they must be broken2 but this is never accomplished by harshness without developing worse evils3 kindness1 perseverance1 and patience in the nurse1 are here of the utmost importance4 ,when finger-sucking is one of these habits1 the fingers are sometimes rubbed with bitter aloes1 or some equally disagreeable substance4 ,others have dirty habits1 which are only to be changed by patience1 perseverance1 and1 above all1 by regularity in the nurse4 ,she should never be permitted to inflict punishment on these occasions1 or1 indeed1 on any occasion4 ,but1 if punishment is to be avoided1 it is still more necessary that all kinds of indulgences and flattery be equally forbidden4 ,yielding to all the whims of a child1--picking up its toys when thrown away in mere wantonness1 would be intolerable4 ,a child should never be led to think others inferior to it1 to beat a dog1 or even the stone against which it falls1 as some children are taught to do by silly nurses4 ,neither should the nurse affect or show alarm at any of the little accidents which must inevitably happen3 if it falls1 treat it as a trifle2 otherwise she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity4 ,but she will take care that such accidents are not of frequent occurrence1 or the result of neglect4 #bdjj4 ,the nurse should keep the child as clean as possible1 and particularly she should train it to habits of cleanliness1 so that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise2 watching especially that it does not soil itself in eating4 ,at the same time1 vanity in its personal appearance is not to be encouraged by over-care in this respect1 or by too tight lacing or buttoning of dresses1 nor a small foot cultivated by the use of tight shoes4 #bdja4 ,nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents faithfully and truly the defects they observe in the dispositions of very young children4 ,if properly checked in time1 evil propensities may be eradicated2 but this should not extend to anything but serious defects2 otherwise1 the intuitive perceptions which all children possess will construe the act into spying and informing1 which should never be resorted to in the case of children1 nor1 indeed1 in any case4 #bdjb4 ,such are the cares which devolve upon the nursemaid1 and it is her duty to fulfil them personally4 ,in large establishments she will have assistants proportioned to the number of children of which she has the care4 ,the under nursemaid lights the fires1 sweeps1 scours1 and dusts the rooms1 and makes the beds2 empties slops1 and carries up water2 brings up and removes the nursery meals2 washes and dresses all the children1 except the infant1 and assists in mending4 ,where there is a nursery girl to assist1 she does the rougher part of the cleaning2 and all take their meals in the nursery together1 after the children of the family have done4 #bdjc4 ,in smaller families1 where there is only one nursemaid kept1 she is assisted by the housemaid1 or servant-of-all-work1 who will do the rougher part of the work1 and carry up the nursery meals4 ,in such circumstances she will be more immediately under the eye of her mistress1 who will probably relieve her from some of the cares of the infant4 ,in higher families1 the upper nurse is usually permitted to sup or dine occasionally at the housekeeper's table by way of relaxation1 when the children are all well1 and her subordinates trustworthy4 #bdjd4 ,where the nurse has the entire charge of the nursery1 and the mother is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it1 it is desirable that she be a person of observation1 and possess some acquaintance with the diseases incident to childhood1 as also with such simple remedies as may be useful before a medical attendant can be procured1 or where such attendance is not considered necessary4 ,all these little ailments are preceded by symptoms so minute as to be only perceptible to close observation2 such as twitching of the brows1 restless sleep1 grinding the gums1 and1 in some inflammatory diseases1 even to the child abstaining from crying1 from fear of the increased pain produced by the movement4 ,dentition1 or cutting the teeth1 is attended with many of these symptoms4 ,measles1 thrush1 scarlatina1 croup1 hooping-cough1 and other childish complaints1 are all preceded by well-known symptoms1 which may be alleviated and rendered less virulent by simple remedies instantaneously applied4 #bdje4 ,dentition is usually the first serious trouble1 bringing many other disorders in its train4 ,the symptoms are most perceptible to the mother3 the child sucks feebly1 and with gums hot1 inflamed1 and swollen4 ,in this case1 relief is yielded by rubbing them from time to time with a little of ,mrs4 ,johnson's soothing syrup1 a valuable and perfectly safe medicine4 ,selfish and thoughtless nurses1 and mothers too1 sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts1 whose effects are too well known4 #bdjf4 ,convulsion ,fits sometimes follow the feverish restlessness produced by these causes2 in which case a hot bath should be administered without delay1 and the lower parts of the body rubbed1 the bath being as hot as it can be without scalding the tender skin2 at the same time1 the doctor should be sent for immediately1 for no nurse should administer medicine in this case1 unless the fits have been repeated and the doctor has left directions with her how to act4 #bdjg4 ,croup is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood2 it is accompanied with a hoarse1 croaking1 ringing cough1 and comes on very suddenly1 and most so in strong1 robust children4 ,a very hot bath should be instantly administered1 followed by an emetic1 either in the form of tartar-emetic1 croup-powder1 or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha1 wrapping the body warmly up in flannel after the bath4 ,the slightest delay in administering the bath1 or the emetic1 may be fatal2 hence1 the importance of nurses about very young children being acquainted with the symptoms4 #bdjh4 ,hooping-,cough is generally preceded by the moaning noise during sleep1 which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid3 it is followed by violent fits of coughing1 which little can be done to relieve4 ,a child attacked by this disorder should be kept as much as possible in the fresh1 pure air1 but out of draughts1 and kept warm1 and supplied with plenty of nourishing food4 ,many fatal diseases flow from this scourge of childhood1 and a change to purer air1 if possible1 should follow convalescence4 #bdji4 ,worms are the torment of some children3 the symptoms are1 an unnatural craving for food1 even after a full meal2 costiveness1 suddenly followed by the reverse2 fetid breath1 a livid circle under the eyes1 enlarged abdomen1 and picking the nose2 for which the remedies must be prescribed by the doctor4 #bdaj4 ,measles and ,scarlatina much resemble each other in their early stages3 headache1 restlessness1 and fretfulness are the symptoms of both4 ,shivering fits1 succeeded by a hot skin2 pains in the back and limbs1 accompanied by sickness1 and1 in severe cases1 sore throat2 pain about the jaws1 difficulty in swallowing1 running at the eyes1 which become red and inflamed1 while the face is hot and flushed1 often distinguish scarlatina and scarlet fever1 of which it is only a mild form4 #bdaa4 ,while the case is doubtful1 a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitre diluted in water1 given at bedtime1 will throw the child into a gentle perspiration1 and will bring out the rash in either case4 ,in measles1 this appears first on the face2 in scarlatina1 on the chest2 and in both cases a doctor should be called in4 ,in scarlatina1 tartar-emetic powder or ipecacuanha may be administered in the mean time4 #bdab4 ,in all cases1 cleanliness1 fresh air1 clean utensils1 and frequent washing of the person1 both of nurse and children1 are even more necessary in the nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room1 inasmuch as the delicate organs of childhood are more susceptible of injury from smells and vapours than adults4 #bdac4 ,it may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of the duties of a nursemaid1 by an extract from ,florence ,nightingale's admirable ,notes on ,nursing4 ,referring to children1 she says3-- #bdad4 ,they are much more susceptible than grown people to all noxious influences4 ,they are affected by the same things1 but much more quickly and seriously2 by want of fresh air1 of proper warmth2 want of cleanliness in house1 clothes1 bedding1 or body2 by improper food1 want of punctuality1 by dulness1 by want of light1 by too much or too little covering in bed or when up4 ,and all this in health2 and then she quotes a passage from a lecture on sudden deaths in infancy1 to show the importance of careful nursing of children3--,in the great majority of instances1 when death suddenly befalls the infant or young child1 it is an accident2 it is not a necessary1 inevitable result of any disease4 ,that which is known to injure children most seriously is foul air2 keeping the rooms where they sleep closely shut up is destruction to them2 and1 if the child's breathing be disordered by disease1 a few hours only of such foul air may endanger its life1 even where no inconvenience is felt by grown-up persons in the room4 #bdae4 ,persons moving in the beat society will see1 after perusing ,miss ,nightingale's book1 that this foul air1 want of light1 too much or too little clothing1 and improper food1 is not confined to ,crown ,street or ,st4 ,giles's2 that ,belgravia and the squares have their north room1 where the rays of the sun never reach4 ,a wooden bedstead1 two or three mattresses piled up to above the height of the table1 a vallance attached to the frame1--nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air such a bed and bedding1--is the ordinary bed of a private house1 than which nothing can be more unwholesome4 ,don't treat your children like sick1 she sums up2 don't dose them with tea4 ,let them eat meat and drink milk1 or half a glass of light beer4 ,give them fresh1 light1 sunny1 and open rooms1 cool bedrooms1 plenty of outdoor exercise1 facing even the cold1 and wind1 and weather1 in sufficiently warm clothes1 and with sufficient exercise1 plenty of amusements and play2 more liberty1 and less schooling1 and cramming1 and training2 more attention to food and less to physic4 ,,duties ,,of ,,the ,,sick-,,nurse4 #bdaf4 ,all women are likely1 at some period of their lives1 to be called on to perform the duties of a sick-nurse1 and should prepare themselves as much as possible1 by observation and reading1 for the occasion when they may be required to perform the office4 ,the main requirements are good temper1 compassion for suffering1 sympathy with sufferers1 which most women worthy of the name possess1 neat-handedness1 quiet manners1 love of order1 and cleanliness4 ,with these qualifications there will be very little to be wished for2 the desire to relieve suffering will inspire a thousand little attentions1 and surmount the disgusts which some of the offices attending the sick-room are apt to create4 ,where serious illness visits a household1 and protracted nursing is likely to become necessary1 a professional nurse will probably be engaged1 who has been trained to its duties2 but in some families1 and those not a few let us hope1 the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangement as a failure of duty on their part4 ,there is1 besides1 even when a professional nurse is ultimately called in1 a period of doubt and hesitation1 while disease has not yet developed itself1 when the patient must be attended to2 and1 in these cases1 some of the female servants of the establishment must give their attendance in the sick-room4 ,there are1 also1 slight attacks of cold1 influenza1 and accidents in a thousand forms1 to which all are subject1 where domestic nursing becomes a necessity2 where disease1 though unattended with danger1 is nevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness1 and when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary4 #bdag4 ,in the first stage of sickness1 while doubt and a little perplexity hang over the household as to the nature of the sickness1 there are some things about which no doubt can exist3 the patient's room must be kept in a perfectly pure state1 and arrangements made for proper attendance2 for the first canon of nursing1 according to ,florence ,nightingale1 its apostle1 is to keep the air the patient breathes as pure as the external air1 without chilling him4 ,this can be done without any preparation which might alarm the patient2 with proper windows1 open fireplaces1 and a supply of fuel1 the room may be as fresh as it is outside1 and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient's state4 #bdah4 ,windows1 however1 must be opened from above1 and not from below1 and draughts avoided2 cool air admitted beneath the patient's head chills the lower strata and the floor4 ,the careful nurse will keep the door shut when the window is open2 she will also take care that the patient is not placed between the door and the open window1 nor between the open fireplace and the window4 ,if confined to bed1 she will see that the bed is placed in a thoroughly ventilated part of the room1 but out of the current of air which is produced by the momentary opening of doors1 as well as out of the line of draught between the window and the open chimney1 and that the temperature of the room is kept about #fd4 ,where it is necessary to admit air by the door1 the windows should be closed2 but there are few circumstances in which good air can be obtained through the chamber-door2 through it1 on the contrary1 the gases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to be drawn into the invalid chamber4 #bdai4 ,these precautions taken1 and plain nourishing diet1 such as the patient desires1 furnished1 probably little more can be done1 unless more serious symptoms present themselves2 in which case medical advice will be sought4 #bdbj4 ,under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room so essential as in cases of febrile diseases1 usually considered infectious2 such as typhus and puerperal fevers1 influenza1 hooping-cough1 small- and chicken-pox1 scarlet fever1 measles1 and erysipelas3 all these are considered communicable through the air2 but there is little danger of infection being thus communicated1 provided the room is kept thoroughly ventilated4 ,on the contrary1 if this essential be neglected1 the power of infection is greatly increased and concentrated in the confined and impure air2 it settles upon the clothes of the attendants and visitors1 especially where they are of wool1 and is frequently communicated to other families in this manner4 #bdba4 ,under all circumstances1 therefore1 the sick-room should be kept as fresh and sweet as the open air1 while the temperature is kept up by artificial heat1 taking care that the fire burns clear1 and gives out no smoke into the room2 that the room is perfectly clean1 wiped over with a damp cloth every day1 if boarded2 and swept1 after sprinkling with damp tea-leaves1 or other aromatic leaves1 if carpeted2 that all utensils are emptied and cleaned as soon as used1 and not once in four-and-twenty hours1 as is sometimes done4 ,a slop-pail1 ,miss ,nightingale says1 should never enter a sick-room2 everything should be carried direct to the water-closet1 emptied there1 and brought up clean2 in the best hospitals the slop-pail is unknown4 ,i do not approve1 says ,miss ,nightingale1 of making housemaids of nurses1--that would be waste of means2 but ,i have seen surgical sisters1 women whose hands were worth to them two or three guineas a week1 down on their knees1 scouring a room or hut1 because they thought it was not fit for their patients3 these women had the true nurse spirit4 #bdbb4 ,bad smells are sometimes met by sprinkling a little liquid chloride of lime on the floor2 fumigation by burning pastiles is also a common expedient for the purification of the sick-room4 ,they are useful1 but only in the sense hinted at by the medical lecturer1 who commenced his lecture thus3--,fumigations1 gentlemen1 are of essential importance2 they make so abominable a smell1 that they compel you to open the windows and admit fresh air4 ,in this sense they are useful1 but ineffectual unless the cause be removed1 and fresh air admitted4 #bdbc4 ,the sick-room should be quiet2 no talking1 no gossiping1 and1 above all1 no whispering1--this is absolute cruelty to the patient2 he thinks his complaint the subject1 and strains his ear painfully to catch the sound4 ,no rustling of dresses1 nor creaking shoes either2 where the carpets are taken up1 the nurse should wear list shoes1 or some other noiseless material1 and her dress should be of soft material that does not rustle4 ,miss ,nightingale denounces crinoline1 and quotes ,lord ,melbourne on the subject of women in the sick-room1 who said1 ,i would rather have men about me1 when ill1 than women2 it requires very strong health to put up with women4 ,ungrateful man6 but absolute quiet is necessary in the sick-room4 #bdbd4 ,never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise1 never roused by anything like a surprise4 ,always sit in the apartment1 so that the patient has you in view1 and that it is not necessary for him to turn in speaking to you4 ,never keep a patient standing2 never speak to one while moving4 ,never lean on the sick-bed4 ,above all1 be calm and decisive with the patient1 and prevent all noises over-head4 #bdbe4 ,a careful nurse1 when a patient leaves his bed1 will open the sheets wide1 and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed2 ,she will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room4 #bdbf4 ,it is another fallacy1 says ,florence ,nightingale1 to suppose that night air is injurious2 a great authority told me that1 in ,london1 the air is never so good as after ten o'clock1 when smoke has diminished2 but then it must be air from without1 not within1 and not air vitiated by gaseous airs4 ,a great fallacy prevails also1 she says1 in another section1 about flowers poisoning the air of the sick-room3 no one ever saw them over-crowding the sick-room2 but1 if they did1 they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off oxygen4 ,cut flowers also decompose water1 and produce oxygen gas4 ,lilies1 and some other very odorous plants1 may perhaps give out smells unsuited to a close room1 while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be fresh and natural4 #bdbg4 ,patients1 says ,miss ,nightingale1 are sometimes starved in the midst of plenty1 from want of attention to the ways which alone make it possible for them to take food4 ,a spoonful of beef-tea1 or arrowroot and wine1 or some other light nourishing diet1 should be given every hour1 for the patient's stomach will reject large supplies4 ,in very weak patients there is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing1 which is much increased if food is not ready and presented at the moment when it is wanted3 the nurse should be able to discriminate1 and know when this moment is approaching4 #bdbh4 ,diet suitable for patients will depend1 in some degree1 on their natural likes and dislikes1 which the nurse will do well to acquaint herself with4 ,beef-tea is useful and relishing1 but possesses little nourishment2 when evaporated1 it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat to a pint of water4 ,eggs are not equivalent to the same weight of meat4 ,arrowroot is less nourishing than flour4 ,butter is the lightest and most digestible kind of fat4 ,cream1 in some diseases1 cannot be replaced4 ,but1 to sum up with some of ,miss ,nightingale's useful maxims3--,observation is the nurse's best guide1 and the patient's appetite the rule4 ,half a pint of milk is equal to a quarter of a pound of meat4 ,beef-tea is the least nourishing food administered to the sick2 and tea and coffee1 she thinks1 are both too much excluded from the sick-room4 ,,the ,,monthly ,,nurse4 #bdbi4 ,the choice of a monthly nurse is of the utmost importance2 and in the case of a young mother with her first child1 it would be well for her to seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives in this matter4 ,in the first place1 the engaging a monthly nurse in good time is of the utmost importance1 as1 if she be competent and clever1 her services will be sought months beforehand2 a good nurse having seldom much of her time disengaged4 ,there are some qualifications which it is evident the nurse should possess3 she should be scrupulously clean and tidy in her person2 honest1 sober1 and noiseless in her movements2 should possess a natural love for children1 and have a strong nerve in case of emergencies4 ,snuff-taking and spirit-drinking must not be included in her habits2 but these are happily much less frequent than they were in former days4 #bdcj4 ,receiving1 as she often will1 instructions from the doctor1 she should bear these in mind1 and carefully carry them out4 ,in those instances where she does not feel herself sufficiently informed1 she should ask advice from the medical man1 and not take upon herself to administer medicines1 c41 without his knowledge4 #bdca4 ,a monthly nurse should be between #cj and #ej years of age1 sufficiently old to have had a little experience1 and yet not too old or infirm to be able to perform various duties requiring strength and bodily vigour4 ,she should be able to wake the moment she is called1--at any hour of the night1 that the mother or child may have their wants immediately attended to4 ,good temper1 united to a kind and gentle disposition1 is indispensable2 and1 although the nurse will frequently have much to endure from the whims and caprices of the invalid1 she should make allowances for these1 and command her temper1 at the same time exerting her authority when it is necessary4 #bdcb4 ,what the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting her lady's room1 depends entirely on the establishment that is kept4 ,where there are plenty of servants1 the nurse1 of course1 has nothing whatever to do but attend on her patient1 and ring the bell for anything she may require4 ,where the number of domestics is limited1 she should not mind keeping her room in order2 that is to say1 sweeping and dusting it every morning4 ,if fires be necessary1 the housemaid should always clean the grate1 and do all that is wanted in that way1 as this1 being rather dirty work1 would soil the nurse's dress1 and unfit her to approach the bed1 or take the infant without soiling its clothes4 ,in small establishments1 too1 the nurse should herself fetch things she may require1 and not ring every time she wants anything2 and she must1 of course1 not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is comfortable2 and then only for a few minutes4 ,when down stairs1 and in company with the other servants1 the nurse should not repeat what she may have heard in her lady's room1 as much mischief may be done by a gossiping nurse4 ,as in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few days before her services may be required1 she should see that all is in readiness2 that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinement takes place4 ,she should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired1 as well as night-dresses1 flannels1 c4 c4 ,all the things which will be required to dress the baby the first time should be laid in the basket in readiness1 in the order in which they are to be put on2 as well as scissors1 thread1 a few pieces of soft linen rag1 and two or three flannel squares4 ,if a berceaunette is to be used immediately1 the nurse should ascertain that the mattresses1 pillow1 c4 are all well aired2 and if not already done before she arrives1 she should assist in covering and trimming it1 ready for the little occupant4 ,a monthly nurse should be handy at her needle1 as1 if she is in the house some time before the baby is born1 she will require some work of this sort2 to occupy her time4 ,she should also understand the making-up of little caps1 although we can scarcely say this is one of the nurse's duties4 ,as most children wear no caps1 except out of doors1 her powers in this way will not be much taxed4 #bdcc4 ,a nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible1 and always keep it clean and tidy4 ,she should empty the chamber utensils as soon as used1 and on no account put things under the bed4 ,soiled baby's napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan1 when they should be washed out every morning1 and hung out to dry3 they are then in a fit state to send to the laundress2 and should1 on no account1 be left dirty1 but done every morning in this way4 ,the bedroom should be kept rather dark1 particularly for the first week or ten days2 of a regular temperature1 and as free as possible from draughts1 at the same time well ventilated and free from unpleasant smells4 #bdcd4 ,the infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light1 or much air2 and in carrying it about the passages1 stairs1 c41 the nurse should always have its head-flannel on1 to protect the eyes and ears from the currents of air4 ,for the management of children1 we must refer our readers to the following chapters2 and we need only say1 in conclusion1 that a good nurse should understand the symptoms of various ills incident to this period1 as1 in all cases1 prevention is better than cure4 ,as young mothers with their first baby are very often much troubled at first with their breasts1 the nurse should understand the art of emptying them by suction1 or some other contrivance4 ,if the breasts are kept well drawn1 there will be but little danger of inflammation2 and as the infant at first cannot take all that is necessary1 something must be done to keep the inflammation down4 ,this is one of the greatest difficulties a nurse has to contend with1 and we can only advise her to be very persevering1 to rub the breasts well1 and to let the infant suck as soon and as often as possible1 until they get in proper order4 ,,the ,,wet-,,nurse4 #bdce4 ,we are aware that1 according to the opinion of some ladies1 there is no domestic theme1 during a certain period of their married lives1 more fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitful source of annoyance1 the ,nurse2 but1 as we believe1 there are thousands of excellent wives and mothers who pass through life without even a temporary embroglio in the kitchen1 or suffering a state of moral hectic the whole time of a nurse's empire in the nursery or bedroom4 ,our own experience goes to prove1 that although many unqualified persons palm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for the duties they so rashly and dishonestly undertake to perform1 and thus expose themselves to ill-will and merited censure1 there are still very many fully equal to the legitimate exercise of what they undertake2 and if they do not in every case give entire satisfaction1 some of the fault1--and sometimes a great deal of it1--may be honestly placed to the account of the ladies themselves1 who1 in many instances1 are so impressed with the propriety of their own method of performing everything1 as to insist upon the adoption of their system in preference to that of the nurse1 whose plan is probably based on a comprehensive forethought1 and rendered perfect in all its details by an ample experience4 #bdcf4 ,in all our remarks on this subject1 we should remember with gentleness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn2 and that those who make their duty a study1 and are termed professional nurses1 have much to endure from the caprice and egotism of their employers2 while others are driven to the occupation from the laudable motive of feeding their own children1 and who1 in fulfilling that object1 are too often both selfish and sensual1 performing1 without further interest than is consistent with their own advantage1 the routine of customary duties4 #bdcg4 ,properly speaking1 there are two nurses1--the nurse for the mother and the nurse for the child1 or1 the monthly and the wet nurse4 ,of the former we have already spoken1 and will now proceed to describe the duties of the latter1 and add some suggestions as to her age1 physical health1 and moral conduct1 subjects of the utmost importance as far as the charge intrusted to her is concerned1 and therefore demanding some special remarks4 #bdch4 ,when from illness1 suppression of the milk1 accident1 or some natural process1 the mother is deprived of the pleasure of rearing her infant1 it becomes necessary at once to look around for a fitting substitute1 so that the child may not suffer1 by any needless delay1 a physical loss by the deprivation of its natural food4 ,the first consideration should be as regards age1 state of health1 and temper4 #bdci4 ,the age1 if possible1 should not be less than twenty nor exceed thirty years1 with the health sound in every respect1 and the body free from all eruptive disease or local blemish4 ,the best evidence of a sound state of health will be found in the woman's clear open countenance1 the ruddy tone of the skin1 the full1 round1 and elastic state of the breasts1 and especially in the erectile1 firm condition of the nipple1 which1 in all unhealthy states of the body1 is pendulous1 flabby1 and relaxed2 in which case1 the milk is sure to be imperfect in its organization1 and1 consequently1 deficient in its nutrient qualities4 ,appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse or mother2 for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having a corresponding appetite2 and though inordinate craving for food is neither desirable nor necessary1 a natural vigour should be experienced at meal-times1 and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed4 #bddj4 ,besides her health1 the moral state of the nurse is to be taken into account1 or that mental discipline or principle of conduct which would deter the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures and appetites at the cost or suffering of her infant charge4 #bdda4 ,the conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse so acting are1 unfortunately1 very rare2 and many nurses1 rather than forego the enjoyment of a favourite dish1 though morally certain of the effect it will have on the child1 will1 on the first opportunity1 feed with avidity on fried meats1 cabbage1 cucumbers1 pickles1 or other crude and injurious aliments1 in defiance of all orders given1 or confidence reposed in their word1 good sense1 and humanity4 ,and when the infant is afterwards racked with pain1 and a night of disquiet alarms the mother1 the doctor is sent for1 and the nurse1 covering her dereliction by a falsehood1 the consequence of her gluttony is treated as a disease1 and the poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines1 that can do it but little if any good1 and1 in all probability1 materially retard its physical development4 ,the selfish nurse1 in her ignorance1 believes1 too1 that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself1 the child cannot suffer2 and satisfied that1 whatever is the cause of its screams and plunges1 neither she1 nor what she had eaten1 had anything to do with it1 with this flattering assurance at her heart1 she watches her opportunity1 and has another luxurious feast off the proscribed dainties1 till the increasing disturbance in the child's health1 or treachery from the kitchen1 opens the eyes of mother and doctor to the nurse's unprincipled conduct4 ,in all such cases the infant should be spared the infliction of medicine1 and1 as a wholesome corrective to herself1 and relief to her charge1 a good sound dose administered to the nurse4 #bddb4 ,respecting the diet of the wet-nurse1 the first point of importance is to fix early and definite hours for every meal2 and the mother should see that no cause is ever allowed to interfere with their punctuality4 ,the food itself should be light1 easy of digestion1 and simple4 ,boiled or roast meat1 with bread and potatoes1 with occasionally a piece of sago1 rice1 or tapioca pudding1 should constitute the dinner1 the only meal that requires special comment2 broths1 green vegetables1 and all acid or salt foods1 must be avoided4 ,fresh fish1 once or twice a week1 may be taken2 but it is hardly sufficiently nutritious to be often used as a meal4 ,if the dinner is taken early1--at one o'clock1--there will be no occasion for luncheon1 which too often1 to the injury of the child1 is made the cover for a first dinner4 ,half a pint of stout1 with a ,reading biscuit1 at eleven o'clock1 will be abundantly sufficient between breakfast at eight and a good dinner1 with a pint of porter at one o'clock4 ,about eight o'clock in the evening1 half a pint of stout1 with another biscuit1 may be taken2 and for supper1 at ten or half-past1 a pint of porter1 with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread and cheese1 may conclude the feeding for the day4 #bddc4 ,animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient4 ,all spirits1 unless in extreme cases1 should be avoided2 and wine is still more seldom needed4 ,with a due quantity of plain digestible food1 and the proportion of stout and porter ordered1 with early hours and regularity1 the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself1 but fully capable of rearing a child in health and strength4 ,there are two points all mothers1 who are obliged to employ wet-nurses1 should remember1 and be on their guard against4 ,the first is1 never to allow a nurse to give medicine to the infant on her own authority3 many have such an infatuated idea of the healing excellence of castor-oil1 that they would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a week1 and think they had done a meritorious service to the child4 ,the next point is1 to watch carefully1 lest1 to insure a night's sleep for herself1 she does not dose the infant with ,godfrey's cordial1 syrup of poppies1 or some narcotic potion1 to insure tranquillity to the one and give the opportunity of sleep to the other4 ,the fact that scores of nurses keep secret bottles of these deadly syrups1 for the purpose of stilling their charges1 is notorious2 and that many use them to a fearful extent1 is sufficiently patent to all4 #bddd4 ,it therefore behoves the mother1 while obliged to trust to a nurse1 to use her best discretion to guard her child from the unprincipled treatment of the person she must1 to a certain extent1 depend upon and trust2 and to remember1 in all cases1 rather than resort to castor-oil or sedatives1 to consult a medical man for her infant in preference to following the counsel of her nurse4 ,,the ,,rearing1 ,,management1 ,,and ,,diseases ,,of ,,infancy ,,and ,,childhood4 ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,physiology of ,life1 as illustrated by ,respiration1 ,circulation1 and ,digestion4 #bdde4 ,the infantine management of children1 like the mother's love for her offspring1 seems to be born with the child1 and to be a direct intelligence of ,nature4 ,it may thus1 at first sight1 appear as inconsistent and presumptuous to tell a woman how to rear her infant as to instruct her in the manner of loving it4 ,yet1 though ,nature is unquestionably the best nurse1 ,art makes so admirable a foster-mother1 that no sensible woman1 in her novitiate of parent1 would refuse the admonitions of art1 or the teachings of experience1 to consummate her duties of nurse4 ,it is true that1 in a civilized state of society1 few young wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without some insight1 traditional or practical1 into the management of infants3 consequently1 the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaided intelligence1 or what1 in such a case1 may be called instinct1 and obliged to trust to the promptings of nature alone for the well-being of her child1 are very rare indeed4 ,again1 every woman is not gifted with the same physical ability for the harassing duties of a mother2 and though ,nature1 as a general rule1 has endowed all female creation with the attributes necessary to that most beautiful and1 at the same time1 holiest function1--the healthy rearing of their offspring1--the cases are sufficiently numerous to establish the exception1 where the mother is either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking these most pleasing duties herself1 and where1 consequently1 she is compelled to trust to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are at once the mother's pride and delight to render to her child4 #bddf4 ,in these cases1 when obliged to call in the services of hired assistance1 she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to one who1 from her social sphere1 has probably notions of rearing children diametrically opposed to the preconceived ideas of the mother1 and at enmity with all her sentiments of right and prejudices of position4 #bddg4 ,it has justly been said--we think by ,hood--that the children of the poor are not brought up1 but dragged up4 ,however facetious this remark may seem1 there is much truth in it2 and that children1 reared in the reeking dens of squalor and poverty1 live at all1 is an apparent anomaly in the course of things1 that1 at first sight1 would seem to set the laws of sanitary provision at defiance1 and make it appear a perfect waste of time to insist on pure air and exercise as indispensable necessaries of life1 and especially so as regards infantine existence4 #bddh4 ,we see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children1 everything studied that can tend to their personal comfort1--pure air1 pure water1 regular ablution1 a dietary prescribed by art1 and every precaution adopted that medical judgment and maternal love can dictate1 for the well-being of the parents' hope2 and find1 in despite of all this care and vigilance1 disease and death invading the guarded treasure4 ,we turn to the foetor and darkness that1 in some obscure court1 attend the robust brood who1 coated in dirt1 and with mud and refuse for playthings1 live and thrive1 and grow into manhood1 and1 in contrast to the pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child1 exhibit strength1 vigour1 and well-developed frames1 and our belief in the potency of the life-giving elements of air1 light1 and cleanliness receives a shock that1 at first sight1 would appear fatal to the implied benefits of these1 in reality1 all-sufficient attributes of health and life4 #bddi4 ,but as we must enter more largely on this subject hereafter1 we shall leave its consideration for the present1 and return to what we were about to say respecting trusting to others' aid in the rearing of children4 ,here it is that the young and probably inexperienced mother may find our remarks not only an assistance but a comfort to her1 in as far as1 knowing the simplest and best system to adopt1 she may be able to instruct another1 and see that her directions are fully carried out4 #bdej4 ,the human body1 materially considered1 is a beautiful piece of mechanism1 consisting of many parts1 each one being the centre of a system1 and performing its own vital function irrespectively of the others1 and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and health of the whole4 ,it is1 in fact1 to a certain extent1 like a watch1 which1 when once wound up and set in motion1 will continue its function of recording true time only so long as every wheel1 spring1 and lever performs its allotted duty1 and at its allotted time2 or till the limit that man's ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automaton has been reached1 or1 in other words1 till it has run down4 #bdea4 ,what the key is to the mechanical watch1 air is to the physical man4 ,once admit air into the mouth and nostrils1 and the lungs expand1 the heart beats1 the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body1 the mouth secretes saliva1 to soften and macerate the food2 the liver forms its bile1 to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment2 the kidneys perform their office2 the eye elaborates its tears1 to facilitate motion and impart that glistening to the orb on which depends so much of its beauty2 and a dewy moisture exudes from the skin1 protecting the body from the extremes of heat and cold1 and sharpening the perception of touch and feeling4 ,at the same instant1 and in every part1 the arteries1 like innumerable bees1 are everywhere laying down layers of muscle1 bones1 teeth1 and1 in fact1 like the coral zoophyte1 building up a continent of life and matter2 while the veins1 equally busy1 are carrying away the dbris and refuse collected from where the zoophyte arteries are building1--this refuse1 in its turn1 being conveyed to the liver1 there to be converted into bile4 #bdeb4 ,all these--and they are but a few of the vital actions constantly taking place--are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air4 ,no subject can be fraught with greater interest than watching the first spark of life1 as it courses with electric speed through all the gates and alleys of the soft1 insensate body of the infant4 ,the effect of air on the new-born child is as remarkable in its results as it is wonderful in its consequence2 but to understand this more intelligibly1 it must first be remembered that life consists of the performance of three vital functions--,,respiration1 ,,circulation1 and ,,digestion4 ,the lungs digest the air1 taking from it its most nutritious element1 the oxygen1 to give to the impoverished blood that circulates through them4 ,the stomach digests the food1 and separates the nutriment--chyle--from the aliment1 which it gives to the blood for the development of the frame2 and the blood1 which is understood by the term circulation1 digests in its passage through the lungs the nutriment--chyle--to give it quantity and quality1 and the oxygen from the air to give it vitality4 ,hence it will be seen1 that1 speaking generally1 the three vital functions resolve themselves into one1--,,digestion2 and that the lungs are the primary and the most important of the vital organs2 and respiration1 the first in fact1 as we all know it is the last in deed1 of all the functions performed by the living body4 ,,the ,,lungs4--,,respiration4 #bdec4 ,the first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about the lips and angles of the mouth1 increasing to twitchings1 and finally to a convulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks1 the consequence of sudden cold to the nerves of the face4 ,this spasmodic action produces a gasp1 causing the air to rush through the mouth and nostrils1 and enter the windpipe and upper portion of the flat and contracted lungs1 which1 like a sponge partly immersed in water1 immediately expand4 ,this is succeeded by a few faint sobs or pants1 by which larger volumes of air are drawn into the chest1 till1 after a few seconds1 and when a greater bulk of the lungs has become inflated1 the breast-bone and ribs rise1 the chest expands1 and1 with a sudden start1 the infant gives utterance to a succession of loud1 sharp cries1 which have the effect of filling every cell of the entire organ with air and life4 ,to the anxious mother1 the first voice of her child is1 doubtless1 the sweetest music she ever heard2 and the more loudly it peals1 the greater should be her joy1 as it is an indication of health and strength1 and not only shows the perfect expansion of the lungs1 but that the process of life has set in with vigour4 ,having welcomed in its own existence1 like the morning bird1 with a shrill note of gladness1 the infant ceases its cry1 and1 after a few short sobs1 usually subsides into sleep or quietude4 #bded4 ,at the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs1 the valve1 or door between the two sides of the heart-and through which the blood had previously passed-is closed and hermetically sealed1 and the blood taking a new course1 bounds into the lungs1 now expanded with air1 and which we have likened to a wetted sponge1 to which they bear a not unapt affinity1 air being substituted for water4 ,it here receives the oxygen from the atmosphere1 and the chyle1 or white blood1 from the digested food1 and becomes1 in an instant1 arterial blood1 a vital principle1 from which every solid and fluid of the body is constructed4 ,besides the lungs1 ,nature has provided another respiratory organ1 a sort of supplemental lung1 that1 as well as being a covering to the body1 inspires air and expires moisture2--this is the cuticle1 or skin2 and so intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs1 that whatever injures the first1 is certain to affect the latter4 #bdee4 ,hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after scalds or burns on the cuticle1 the cough that follows the absorption of cold or damp by the skin1 the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced by children in all eruptive diseases1 while the rash is coming to the surface1 and the hot1 dry skin that always attends congestion of the lungs1 and fever4 #bdef4 ,the great practical advantage derivable from this fact is1 the knowledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other4 ,hence1 too1 the great utility of hot baths in all affections of the lungs or diseases of the skin2 and the reason why exposure to cold or wet is1 in nearly all cases1 followed by tightness of the chest1 sore throat1 difficulty of breathing1 and cough4 ,these symptoms are the consequence of a larger quantity of blood than is natural remaining in the lungs1 and the cough is a mere effort of ,nature to throw off the obstruction caused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of respiration4 ,the hot bath1 by causing a larger amount of blood to rush suddenly to the skin1 has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess of blood1 and by equalizing the circulation1 and promoting perspiration from the cuticle1 affords immediate and direct benefit1 both to the lungs and the system at large4 ,,the ,,stomach--,,digestion4 #bdeg4 ,the organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to the process of digestion are1 the mouth1 teeth1 tongue1 and gullet1 the stomach1 small intestines1 the pancreas1 the salivary glands1 and the liver4 ,next to respiration1 digestion is the chief function in the economy of life1 as1 without the nutritious fluid digested from the aliment1 there would be nothing to supply the immense and constantly recurring waste of the system1 caused by the activity with which the arteries at all periods1 but especially during infancy and youth1 are building up the frame and developing the body4 ,in infancy 7the period of which our present subject treats71 the series of parts engaged in the process of digestion may be reduced simply to the stomach and liver1 or rather its secretion1--the bile4 ,the stomach is a thick muscular bag1 connected above with the gullet1 and1 at its lower extremity1 with the commencement of the small intestines4 ,the duty or function of the stomach is to secrete from the arteries spread over its inner surface1 a sharp acid liquid called the gastric juice2 this1 with a due mixture of saliva1 softens1 dissolves1 and gradually digests the food or contents of the stomach1 reducing the whole into a soft pulpy mass1 which then passes into the first part of the small intestines1 where it comes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder1 which immediately separates the digested food into two parts1 one is a white creamy fluid called chyle1 and the absolute concentration of all nourishment1 which is taken up by proper vessels1 and1 as we have before said1 carried directly to the heart1 to be made blood of1 and vitalized in the lungs1 and thus provide for the wear and tear of the system4 ,it must be here observed that the stomach can only digest solids1 for fluids1 being incapable of that process1 can only be absorbed2 and without the result of digestion1 animal1 at least human life1 could not exist4 ,now1 as ,nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on liquid aliment1 and as1 without a digestion the body would perish1 some provision was necessary to meet this difficulty1 and that provision was found in the nature of the liquid itself1 or in other words1 ,,the ,,milk4 ,the process of making cheese1 or fresh curds and whey1 is familiar to most persons2 but as it is necessary to the elucidation of our subject1 we will briefly repeat it4 ,the internal membrane1 or the lining coat of a calf's stomach1 having been removed from the organ1 is hung up1 like a bladder1 to dry2 when required1 a piece is cut off1 put in a jug1 a little warm water poured upon it1 and after a few hours it is fit for use2 the liquid so made being called rennet4 ,a little of this rennet1 poured into a basin of warm milk1 at once coagulates the greater part1 and separates from it a quantity of thin liquor1 called whey4 ,this is precisely the action that takes place in the infant's stomach after every supply from the breast4 ,the cause is the same in both cases1 the acid of the gastric juice in the infant's stomach immediately converting the milk into a soft cheese4 ,it is gastric juice1 adhering to the calf's stomach1 and drawn out by the water1 forming rennet1 that makes the curds in the basin4 ,the cheesy substance being a solid1 at once undergoes the process of digestion1 is separated into chyle by the bile1 and1 in a few hours1 finds its way to the infant's heart1 to become blood1 and commence the architecture of its little frame4 ,this is the simple process of a baby's digestion3-milk converted into cheese1 cheese into chyle1 chyle into blood1 and blood into flesh1 bone1 and tegument-how simple is the cause1 but how sublime and wonderful are the effects6 #bdeh4 ,we have described the most important of the three functions that take place in the infant's body-respiration and digestion2 the third1 namely1 circulation1 we hardly think it necessary to enter on1 not being called for by the requirements of the nurse and mother2 so we shall omit its notice1 and proceed from theoretical to more practical considerations4 ,children of weakly constitutions are just as likely to be born of robust parents1 and those who earn their bread by toil1 as the offspring of luxury and affluence2 and1 indeed1 it is against the ordinary providence of ,nature to suppose the children of the hardworking and necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of parents blessed with ease and competence4 #bdei4 ,all children come into the world in the same imploring helplessness1 with the same general organization and wants1 and demanding either from the newly-awakened mother's love1 or from the memory of motherly feeling in the nurse1 or the common appeals of humanity in those who undertake the earliest duties of an infant1 the same assistance and protection1 and the same fostering care4 ,,the ,,infant4 #bdfj4 ,we have already described the phenomena produced on the new-born child by the contact of air1 which1 after a succession of muscular twitchings1 becomes endowed with voice1 and heralds its advent by a loud but brief succession of cries4 ,but though this is the general rule1 it sometimes happens 7from causes it is unnecessary here to explain7 that the infant does not cry1 or give utterance to any audible sounds1 or if it does1 they are so faint as scarcely to be distinguished as human accents1 plainly indicating that life1 as yet1 to the new visitor1 is neither a boon nor a blessing2 the infant being1 in fact1 in a state of suspended or imperfect vitality1--a state of quasi existence1 closely approximating the condition of a still-birth4 #bdfa4 ,as soon as this state of things is discovered1 the child should be turned on its right side1 and the whole length of the spine1 from the head downwards1 rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand1 sharply and quickly1 without intermission1 till the quick action has not only evoked heat1 but electricity in the part1 and till the loud and sharp cries of the child have thoroughly expanded the lungs1 and satisfactorily established its life4 ,the operation will seldom require above a minute to effect1 and less frequently demands a repetition4 ,if there is brandy at hand1 the fingers before rubbing may be dipped into that1 or any other spirit4 #bdfb4 ,there-is another condition of what we may call mute births1 where the child only makes short ineffectual gasps1 and those at intervals of a minute or two apart1 when the lips1 eyelids1 and fingers become of a deep purple or slate colour1 sometimes half the body remaining white1 while the other half1 which was at first swarthy1 deepens to a livid hue4 ,this condition of the infant is owing to the valve between the two sides of the heart remaining open1 and allowing the unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into the circulation4 #bdfc4 ,the object in this case1 as in the previous one1 is to dilate the lungs as quickly as possible1 so that1 by the sudden effect of a vigorous inspiration1 the valve may be firmly closed1 and the impure blood1 losing this means of egress1 be sent directly to the lungs4 ,the same treatment is therefore necessary as in the previous case1 with the addition1 if the friction along the spine has failed1 of a warm bath at a temperature of about #hj1 in which the child is to be plunged up to the neck1 first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of the mucus that might interfere with the free passage of air4 #bdfd4 ,while in the bath1 the friction along the spine is to be continued1 and if the lungs still remain unexpended1 while one person retains the child in an inclined position in the water1 another should insert the pipe of a small pair of bellows into one nostril1 and while the month is closed and the other nostril compressed on the pipe with the hand of the assistant1 the lungs are to be slowly inflated by steady puffs of air from the bellows1 the hand being removed from the mouth and nose after each inflation1 and placed on the pit of the stomach1 and by a steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth4 ,this process is to be continued1 steadily inflating and expelling the air from the lungs1 till1 with a sort of tremulous leap1 ,nature takes up the process1 and the infant begins to gasp1 and finally to cry1 at first low and faint1 but with every gulp of air increasing in length and strength of volume1 when it is to be removed from the water1 and instantly wrapped 7all but the face and mouth7 in a flannel4 ,sometimes1 however1 all these means will fail in effecting an utterance from the child1 which will lie1 with livid lips and a flaccid body1 every few minutes opening its mouth with a short gasping pant1 and then subsiding into a state of pulseless inaction1 lingering probably some hours1 till the spasmodic pantings growing further apart1 it ceases to exist4 #bdfe4 ,the time that this state of negative vitality will linger in the frame of an infant is remarkable2 and even when all the previous operations1 though long-continued1 have proved ineffectual1 the child will often rally from the simplest of means--the application of dry heat4 ,when removed from the bath1 place three or four hot bricks or tiles on the hearth1 and lay the child1 loosely folded in a flannel1 on its back along them1 taking care that there is but one fold of flannel between the spine and heated bricks or tiles4 ,when neither of these articles can be procured1 put a few clear pieces of red cinder in a warming-pan1 and extend the child in the same manner along the closed lid4 ,as the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marrow1 the child that was dying1 or seemingly dead1 will frequently give a sudden and energetic cry1 succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorous peal1 making up1 in volume and force1 for the previous delay1 and instantly confirming its existence by every effort in its nature4 #bdff4 ,with these two exceptions1--restored by the means we have pointed out to the functions of life1--we will proceed to the consideration of the child ,,healthily ,,born4 ,here the first thing that meets us on the threshold of inquiry1 and what is often between mother and nurse not only a vexed question1 but one of vexatious import1 is the crying of the child2 the mother1 in her natural anxiety1 maintaining that her infant must be ill to cause it to cry so much or so often1 and the nurse insisting that all children cry1 and that nothing is the matter with it1 and that crying does good1 and is1 indeed1 an especial benefit to infancy4 ,the anxious and unfamiliar mother1 though not convinced by these abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation1 takes both for granted2 and1 giving the nurse credit for more knowledge and experience on this head than she can have1 contentedly resigns herself to the infliction1 as a thing necessary to be endured for the good of the baby1 but thinking it1 at the same time1 an extraordinary instance of the imperfectibility of ,nature as regards the human infant2 for her mind wanders to what she has observed in her childhood with puppies and kittens1 who1 except when rudely torn from their nurse1 seldom give utterance to any complaining4 #bdfg4 ,we1 undoubtedly1 believe that crying1 to a certain extent1 is not only conducive to health1 but positively necessary to the full development and physical economy of the infant's being4 ,but though holding this opinion1 we are far from believing that a child does not very often cry from pain1 thirst1 want of food1 and attention to its personal comfort2 but there is as much difference in the tone and expression of a child's cry as in the notes of an adult's voice2 and the mother's ear will not be long in discriminating between the sharp peevish whine of irritation and fever1 and the louder intermitting cry that characterizes the want of warmth and sleep4 ,all these shades of expression in the child's inarticulate voice every nurse should understand1 and every mother will soon teach herself to interpret them with an accuracy equal to language4 #bdfh4 ,there is no part of a woman's duty to her child that a young mother should so soon make it her business to study1 as the voice of her infant1 and the language conveyed in its cry4 ,the study is neither hard nor difficult2 a close attention to its tone1 and the expression of the baby's features1 are the two most important points demanding attention4 ,the key to both the mother will find in her own heart1 and the knowledge of her success in the comfort and smile of her infant4 ,we have two reasons--both strong ones--for urging on mothers the imperative necessity of early making themselves acquainted with the nature and wants of their child3 the first1 that when left to the entire1 responsibility of the baby1 after the departure of the nurse1 she may be able to undertake her new duties with more confidence than if left to her own resources and mother's instinct1 without a clue to guide her through the mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve of her nature2 and1 secondly1 that she may be able to guard her child from the nefarious practices of unprincipled nurses1 who1 while calming the mother's mind with false statements as to the character of the baby's cries1 rather than lose their rest1 or devote that time which would remove the cause of suffering1 administer1 behind the curtains1 those deadly narcotics which1 while stupefying ,nature into sleep1 insure for herself a night of many unbroken hours4 ,such nurses as have not the hardihood to dose their infant charges1 are often full of other schemes to still that constant and reproachful cry4 ,the most frequent means employed for this purpose is giving it something to suck1--something easily hid from the mother1--or1 when that is impossible1 under the plea of keeping it warm1 the nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl1 and1 under this blind1 surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parched lips1 which possibly moan for drink2 and1 under this inhuman cheat and delusion1 the infant is pacified1 till ,nature1 balked of its desires1 drops into a troubled sleep4 ,these are two of our reasons for impressing upon mothers the early1 the immediate necessity of putting themselves sympathetically in communication with their child1 by at once learning its hidden language as a delightful task4 #bdfi4 ,we must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow the nurse to sleep with the baby1 never herself to lay down with it by her side for a night's rest1 never to let it sleep in the parents' bed1 and on no account keep it1 longer than absolutely necessary1 confined in on atmosphere loaded with the breath of many adults4 #bdgj4 ,the amount of oxygen required by an infant is so large1 and the quantity consumed by mid-life and age1 and the proportion of carbonic acid thrown off from both1 so considerable1 that an infant breathing the same air cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while deriving its vitality from so corrupted a medium4 ,this objection1 always in force1 is still more objectionable at night-time1 when doors and windows are closed1 and amounts to a condition of poison1 when placed between two adults in sleep1 and shut in by bed-curtains2 and when1 in addition to the impurities expired from the lungs1 we remember1 in quiescence and sleep1 how large a portion of mephitic gas is given off from the skin4 #bdga4 ,mothers1 in the fullness of their affection1 believe there is no harbour1 sleeping or awake1 where their infants can be so secure from all possible or probable danger as in their own arms2 yet we should astound our readers if we told them the statistical number of infants who1 in despite of their motherly solicitude and love1 are annually killed1 unwittingly1 by such parents themselves1 and this from the persistency in the practice we are so strenuously condemning4 ,the mother frequently1 on awaking1 discovers the baby's face closely impacted between her bosom and her arm1 and its body rigid and lifeless2 or else so enveloped in the head-blanket and superincumbent bedclothes1 as to render breathing a matter of physical impossibility4 ,in such cases the jury in general returns a verdict of ,accidentally overlaid but one of ,careless suffocation would be more in accordance with truth and justice4 ,the only possible excuse that can be urged1 either by nurse or mother1 for this culpable practice1 is the plea of imparting warmth to the infant4 ,but this can always be effected by an extra blanket in the child's crib1 or1 if the weather is particularly cold1 by a bottle of hot water enveloped in flannel and placed at the child's feet2 while all the objections already urged--as derivable from animal heat imparted by actual contact--are entirely obviated4 ,there is another evil attending the sleeping together of the mother and infant1 which1 as far as regards the latter1 we consider quite as formidable1 though not so immediate as the others1 and is always followed by more or less of mischief to the mother4 ,the evil we now allude to is that most injurious practice of letting the child suck after the mother has fallen asleep1 a custom that naturally results from the former1 and which1 as we hare already said1 is injurious to both mother and child4 ,it is injurious to the infant by allowing it1 without control1 to imbibe to distension a fluid sluggishly secreted and deficient in those vital principles which the want of mental energy1 and of the sympathetic appeals of the child on the mother1 so powerfully produce on the secreted nutriment1 while the mother wakes in a state of clammy exhaustion1 with giddiness1 dimness of sight1 nausea1 loss of appetite1 and a dull aching pain through the back and between the shoulders4 ,in fact1 she wakes languid and unrefreshed from her sleep1 with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes1 caused by her baby vampire1 who1 while dragging from her her health and strength1 has excited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite1 but fraught with the same injurious consequences--functional derangement4 ,,the ,,milk4 #bdgb4 ,as ,nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural food of her offspring1 it must be self-evident to every reflecting woman1 that it becomes her duty to study1 as far as lies in her power1 to keep that reservoir of nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition as possible2 for she must remember that the quantity is no proof of the quality of this aliment4 #bdgc4 ,the mother1 while suckling1 as a general rule1 should avoid all sedentary occupations1 take regular exercise1 keep her mind as lively and pleasingly occupied as possible1 especially by music and singing4 ,her diet should be light and nutritious1 with a proper sufficiency of animal food1 and of that kind which yields the largest amount of nourishment2 and1 unless the digestion is naturally strong1 vegetables and fruit should form a very small proportion of the general dietary1 and such preparations as broths1 gruels1 arrowroot1 c41 still less4 ,tapioca1 or ground-rice pudding1 made with several eggs1 may be taken freely2 but all slops and thin potations1 such as that delusion called chicken-broth1 should be avoided1 as yielding a very small amount of nutriment1 and a large proportion of flatulence4 ,all purely stimulants should be avoided as much as possible1 especially spirits1 unless taken for some special object1 and that medicinally2 but as a part of the dietary they should be carefully shunned4 ,lactation is always an exhausting process1 and as the child increases in size and strength1 the drain upon the mother becomes great and depressing4 ,then something more even than an abundant diet is required to keep the mind and body up to a standard sufficiently healthy to admit of a constant and nutritious secretion being performed without detriment to the physical integrity of the mother1 or injury to the child who imbibes it2 and as stimulants are inadmissible1 if not positively injurious1 the substitute required is to be found in malt liquor4 ,to the lady accustomed to her ,madeira and sherry1 this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate young mother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance of wine2 but as we are writing from experience1 and with the avowed object of imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to our readers1 we allow no social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object4 #bdgd4 ,we have already said that the suckling mother should avoid stimulants1 especially spirituous ones2 and though something of this sort is absolutely necessary to support her strength during the exhausting process1 it should be rather of a tonic than of a stimulating character2 and as all wines contain a large percentage of brandy1 they are on that account less beneficial than the pure juice of the fermented grape might be4 ,but there is another consideration to be taken into account on this subject2 the mother has not only to think of herself1 but also of her infant4 ,now wines1 especially port wine1 very often--indeed1 most frequently--affect the baby's bowels1 and what might have been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain and irritation to the child afterwards4 ,sherry is less open to this objection than other wines1 yet still it very frequently does influence the second participator1 or the child whose mother has taken it4 #bdge4 ,the nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be1 to some extent1 to most mothers1 a period of privation and penance1 and unless she is deaf to the cries of her baby1 and insensible to its kicks and plunges1 and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping pains that rack her child1 she will avoid every article that can remotely affect the little being who draws its sustenance from her4 ,she will see that the babe is acutely affected by all that in any way influences her1 and willingly curtail her own enjoyments1 rather than see her infant rendered feverish1 irritable1 and uncomfortable4 ,as the best tonic1 then1 and the most efficacious indirect stimulant that a mother can take at such times1 there is no potation equal to porter and stout1 or1 what is better still1 an equal part of porter and stout4 ,ale1 except for a few constitutions1 is too subtle and too sweet1 generally causing acidity or heartburn1 and stout alone is too potent to admit of a full draught1 from its proneness to affect the head2 and quantity1 as well as moderate strength1 is required to make the draught effectual2 the equal mixture1 therefore1 of stout and porter yields all the properties desired or desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose4 #bdgf4 ,independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution1 porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk2 more powerful in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than any other article within the range of the physician's art2 and1 in cases of deficient quantity1 is the most certain1 speedy1 and the healthiest means that can be employed to insure a quick and abundant flow4 ,in cases where malt liquor produces flatulency1 a few grains of the carbonate of soda may advantageously be added to each glass immediately before drinking1 which will have the effect of neutralizing any acidity that may be in the porter at the time1 and will also prevent its after-disagreement with the stomach4 ,the quantity to be taken must depend upon the natural strength of the mother1 the age and demand made by the infant on the parent1 and other causes2 but the amount should vary from one to two pints a day1 never taking less than half a pint at a time1 which should be repeated three or four times a day4 #bdgg4 ,we have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance to the mother1 but this is not invariably the case2 and1 as so much must depend upon the natural strength of the stomach1 and its power of assimilating all kinds of food into healthy chyle1 it is impossible to define exceptions4 ,where a woman feels she can eat any kind of food1 without inconvenience or detriment1 she should live during her suckling as she did before2 but1 as a general rule1 we are bound to advise all mothers to abstain from such articles as pickles1 fruits1 cucumbers1 and all acid and slowly digestible foods1 unless they wish for restless nights and crying infants4 #bdgh4 ,as regards exercise and amusement1 we would certainly neither prohibit a mother's dancing1 going to a theatre1 nor even from attending an assembly4 ,the first1 however1 is the best indoor recreation she can take1 and a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in the nursery with this most excellent means of healthful circulation4 ,the only precaution necessary is to avoid letting the child suck the milk that has lain long in the breast1 or is heated by excessive action4 #bdgi4 ,every mother who can1 should be provided with a breast-pump1 or glass tube1 to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating in her absence from the child1 or the first gush excited by undue exertion3 the subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigorating influence of a previous healthy stimulus4 #bdhj4 ,as the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of the saline elements1 and is thin and innutritious1 it is most admirably adapted for the purpose ,nature designed it to fulfil1--that of an aperient2 but which1 unfortunately1 it is seldom permitted1 in our artificial mode of living1 to perform4 #bdha4 ,so opposed are we to the objectionable plan of physicking new-born children1 that1 unless for positive illness1 we would much rather advise that medicine should be administered through the mother for the first eight or ten weeks of its existence4 ,this practice1 which few mothers will object to1 is easily effected by the parent1 when such a course is necessary for the child1 taking either a dose of castor-oil1 half an ounce of tasteless salts 7the phosphate of soda71 one or two teaspoonfuls of magnesia1 a dose of lenitive electuary1 manna1 or any mild and simple aperient1 which1 almost before it can have taken effect on herself1 will exhibit its action on her child4 #bdhb4 ,one of the most common errors that mothers fall into while suckling their children1 is that of fancying they are always hungry1 and consequently overfeeding them2 and with this1 the great mistake of applying the child to the breast on every occasion of its crying1 without investigating the cause of its complaint1 and1 under the belief that it wants food1 putting the nipple into its crying mouth1 until the infant turns in revulsion and petulance from what it should accept with eagerness and joy4 ,at such times1 a few teaspoonfuls of water1 slightly chilled1 will often instantly pacify a crying and restless child1 who has turned in loathing from the offered breast2 or1 after imbibing a few drops1 and finding it not what nature craved1 throws back its head in disgust1 and cries more petulantly than before4 ,in such a case as this1 the young mother1 grieved at her baby's rejection of the tempting present1 and distressed at its cries1 and in terror of some injury1 over and over ransacks its clothes1 believing some insecure pin can alone be the cause of such sharp complaining1 an accident that1 from her own care in dressing1 however1 is seldom or ever the case4 #bdhc4 ,these abrupt cries of the child1 if they do not proceed from thirst1 which a little water will relieve1 not unfrequently occur from some unequal pressure1 a fold or twist in the roller1 or some constriction round the tender body4 ,if this is suspected1 the mother must not be content with merely slackening the strings2 the child should be undressed1 and the creases and folds of the hot skin1 especially those about the thighs and groins1 examined1 to see that no powder has caked1 and1 becoming hard1 irritated the parts4 ,the violet powder should be dusted freely over all1 to cool the skin1 and everything put on fresh and smooth4 ,if such precautions have not afforded relief1 and1 in addition to the crying1 the child plunges or draws up its legs1 the mother may be assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach or bowels1--either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding in the former2 but1 from whichever cause1 the child should be opened before the fire1 and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen1 the infant being occasionally elevated to a sitting position1 and while gently jolted on the knee1 the back should be lightly patted with the hand4 #bdhd4 ,should the mother have any reason to apprehend that the cause of inconvenience proceeds from the bladder--a not unfrequent source of pain1--the napkin is to be dipped in hot water1 squeezed out1 and immediately applied over the part1 and repeated every eight or ten minutes1 for several times in succession1 either till the natural relief is afforded1 or a cessation of pain allows of its discontinuance4 ,the pain that young infants often suffer1 and the crying that results from it1 is1 as we have already said1 frequently caused by the mother inconsiderately overfeeding her child1 and is produced by the pain of distension1 and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid in the stomach than the gastric juice can convert into cheese and digest4 #bdhe4 ,some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomach than others1 and get rid of the excess by vomiting1 concluding every process of suckling by an emission of milk and curd4 ,such children are called by nurses thriving children2 and generally they are so1 simply because their digestion is good1 and they have the power of expelling with impunity that superabundance of aliment which in others is a source of distension1 flatulence1 and pain4 #bdhf4 ,the length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much on the health and strength of the child1 and the health of the mother1 and the quantity and quality of her milk2 though1 when all circumstances are favourable1 it should never be less than nine1 nor exceed fifteen months2 but perhaps the true time will be found in the medium between both4 ,but of this we may be sure1 that ,nature never ordained a child to live on suction after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind2 and nothing is more out of place and unseemly than to hear a child1 with a set of twenty teeth1 ask for the breast4 #bdhg4 ,the practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother1 by keeping up an uncalled-for1 and1 after the proper time1 an unhealthy drain on her system1 while the child either derives no benefit from what it no longer requires1 or it produces a positive injury on its constitution4 ,after the period when ,nature has ordained the child shall live by other means1 the secretion of milk becomes thin and deteriorated1 showing in the flabby flesh and puny features of the child both its loss of nutritious properties and the want of more stimulating aliment4 #bdhh4 ,though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time a baby should be suckled1 we by no means wish to imply that a child should be fed exclusively on milk for its first year2 quite the reverse2 the infant can hardly be too soon made independent of the mother4 ,thus1 should illness assail her1 her milk fail1 or any domestic cause abruptly cut off the natural supply1 the child having been annealed to an artificial diet1 its life might be safely carried on without seeking for a wet-nurse1 and without the slightest danger to its system4 #bdhi4 ,the advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child to artificial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to her infant2 the demand on her physical strength in the first instance will be less severe and exhausting1 the child will sleep longer on a less rapidly digestible aliment1 and yield to both more quiet nights1 and the mother will be more at liberty to go out for business or pleasure1 another means of sustenance being at hand till her return4 ,besides these advantages1 by a judicious blending of the two systems of feeding1 the infant will acquire greater constitutional strength1 so that1 if attacked by sickness or disease1 it will have a much greater chance of resisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother1 whose milk1 affected by fatigue and the natural anxiety of the parent for her offspring1 is at such a time neither good in its properties nor likely to be beneficial to the patient4 #bdij4 ,all that we have further to say on suckling is an advice to mothers1 that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple1 and possibly avoid what is called a broken breast1 never to put it up with a wet nipple1 but always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness1 and the moment that delicate part is drawn from the child's mouth1 to dry it carefully of the milk and saliva that moisten it2 and1 further1 to make a practice of suckling from each breast alternately4 ,dress and ,dressing1 ,washing1 c4 #bdia4 ,as respects the dress and dressing of a new-born infant1 or of a child in arms1 during any stage of its nursing1 there are few women who will require us to give them guidance or directions for their instruction2 and though a few hints on the subject may not be out of place here1 yet most women intuitively take to a baby1 and1 with a small amount of experience1 are able to perform all the little offices necessary to its comfort and cleanliness with ease and completeness4 ,we shall1 therefore1 on this delicate subject hold our peace2 and only1 from afar1 hint at what we would1 leaving our suggestions to be approved or rejected1 according as they chime with the judgment and the apprehension of our motherly readers4 #bdib4 ,in these days of intelligence1 there are few ladies who have not1 in all probability1 seen the manner in which the ,indian squaw1 the aborigines of ,polynesia1 and even the ,lapp and ,esquimaux1 strap down their baby on a board1 and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough of a tree1 hang it up to the rafters of the hut1 or on travel1 dangle it on their backs1 outside the domestic implements1 which1 as the slave of her master1 man1 the wronged but uncomplaining woman carries1 in order that her lord may march in unhampered freedom4 ,cruel and confining as this system of backboard dressing may seem to our modern notions of freedom and exercise1 it is positively less irksome1 less confining1 and infinitely less prejudicial to health1 than the mummying of children by our grandmothers a hundred1 ay1 fifty years ago3 for what with chin-stays1 back-stays1 body-stays1 forehead-cloths1 rollers1 bandages1 c41 an infant had as many girths and strings1 to keep head1 limbs1 and body in one exact position1 as a ship has halyards4 #bdic4 ,much of this--indeed we may say all--has been abolished2 but still the child is far from being dressed loosely enough2 and we shall never be satisfied till the abominable use of the pin is avoided in toto in an infant's dressing1 and a texture made for all the under garments of a child of a cool and elastic material4 #bdid4 ,the manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called the roller1 as if it had fractured ribs1 compressing those organs--that1 living on suction1 must be1 for the health of the child1 to a certain degree distended1 to obtain sufficient aliment from the fluid imbibed--is perfectly preposterous4 ,our humanity1 as well as our duty1 calls upon us at once to abrogate and discountenance by every means in our power4 ,instead of the process of washing and dressing being made1 as with the adult1 a refreshment and comfort1 it is1 by the dawdling manner in which it is performed1 the multiplicity of things used1 and the perpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its complicated clothing1 rendered an operation of positive irritation and annoyance4 ,we1 therefore1 entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its true light1 and study to the utmost1 simplicity in dress1 and dispatch in the process4 #bdie4 ,children do not so much cry from the washing as from the irritation caused by the frequent change of position in which they are placed1 the number of times they are turned on their face1 on their back1 and on their side1 by the manipulations demanded by the multiplicity of articles to be fitted1 tacked1 and carefully adjusted on their bodies4 ,what mother ever found her girl of six or seven stand quiet while she was curling her hair8 ,how many times nightly has she not to reprove her for not standing still during the process6 ,it is the same with the unconscious infant1 who cannot bear to be moved about1 and who has no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forced reluctantly into another4 ,it is true1 in one instance the child has intelligence to guide it1 and in the other not2 but the motitory nerves1 in both instances1 resent coercion1 and a child cannot be too little handled4 #bdif4 ,on this account alone1 and1 for the moment1 setting health and comfort out of the question1 we beg mothers to simplify their baby's dress as much as possible2 and not only to put on as little as is absolutely necessary1 but to make that as simple in its contrivance and adjustment as it will admit of2 to avoid belly-bands1 rollers1 girths1 and everything that can impede or confine the natural expansion of the digestive organs1 on the due performance of whose functions the child lives1 thrives1 and develops its physical being4 ,,rearing ,,by ,,hand4 ,articles necessary1 and how to use them1--,preparation of ,foods4-- ,baths4--,advantages of ,rearing by ,hand4 #bdig4 ,as we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocate for an artificial1 in preference to the natural course of rearing children1 we beg our renders to understand us perfectly on this head2 all we desire to prove is the fact that a child can be brought up as well on a spoon dietary as the best example to be found of those reared on the breast2 having more strength1 indeed1 from the more nutritious food on which it lives4 ,it will be thus less liable to infectious diseases1 and more capable of resisting the virulence of any danger that may attack it2 and without in any way depreciating the nutriment of its natural food1 we wish to impress on the mother's mind that there are many cases of infantine debility which might eventuate in rickets1 curvature of the spine1 or mesenteric disease1 where the addition to1 or total substitution of1 an artificial and more stimulating aliment1 would not only give tone and strength to the constitution1 but at the same time render the employment of mechanical means totally unnecessary4 ,and1 finally1 though we would never--where the mother had the strength to suckle her child--supersede the breast1 we would insist on making it a rule to accustom the child as early as possible to the use of an artificial diet1 not only that it may acquire more vigour to help it over the ills of childhood1 but that1 in the absence of the mother1 it might not miss the maternal sustenance2 and also for the parent's sake1 that1 should the milk1 from any cause1 become vitiated1 or suddenly cease1 the child can be made over to the bottle and the spoon without the slightest apprehension of hurtful consequences4 #bdih4 ,to those persons unacquainted with the system1 or who may have been erroneously informed on the matter1 the rearing of a child by hand may seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties1 and a large amount of personal trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes the duty4 ,this1 however1 is a fallacy in every respect1 except as regards the fact of preparing the food2 but even this extra amount of work1 by adopting the course we shall lay down1 may be reduced to a very small sum of inconvenience2 and as respects anxiety1 the only thing calling for care is the display of judgment in the preparation of the food4 ,the articles required for the purpose of feeding an infant are a night-lamp1 with its pan and lid1 to keep the food warm2 a nursing-bottle1 with a prepared teat2 and a small pap saucepan1 for use by day4 ,of the lamp we need hardly speak1 most mothers being acquainted with its operation3 but to those to whom it is unknown we may observe1 that the flame from the floating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above1 in which the covered pan that contains the food floats1 keeping it at such a heat that1 when thinned by milk1 it will be of a temperature suitable for immediate use4 ,though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been lately invented1 and some mounted with ,india-rubber nipples1 the common glass bottle1 with the calf's teat1 is equal in cleanliness and utility to any2 besides1 the nipple put into the child's mouth is so white and natural in appearance1 that no child taken from the breast will refuse it4 ,the black artificial ones of caoutchouc or gutta-percha are unnatural4 ,the prepared teats can be obtained at any chemist's1 and as they are kept in spirits1 they will require a little soaking in warm water1 and gentle washing1 before being tied securely1 by means of fine twine1 round the neck of the bottle1 just sufficient being left projecting for the child to grasp freely in its lips2 for if left the full length1 or over long1 it will be drawn too far into the mouth1 and possibly make the infant heave4 ,when once properly adjusted1 the nipple need never be removed till replaced by a new one1 which will hardly be necessary oftener than once a fortnight1 though with care one will last for several weeks4 ,the nursing-bottle should be thoroughly washed and cleaned every day1 and always rinsed out before and after using it1 the warm water being squeezed through the nipple1 to wash out any particles of food that might lodge in the aperture1 and become sour4 ,the teat can always be kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle1 when not in use1 into a narrow jug containing water1 taking care to dry it first1 and then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it into the child's mouth4 ,food1 and its ,preparation4 #bdii4 ,the articles generally employed as food for infants consist of arrowroot1 bread1 flour1 baked flour1 prepared groats1 farinaceous food1 biscuit-powder1 biscuits1 tops-and-bottoms1 and semolina1 or manna croup1 as it is otherwise called1 which1 like tapioca1 is the prepared pith of certain vegetable substances4 ,of this list the least efficacious1 though1 perhaps1 the most believed in1 is arrowroot1 which only as a mere agent1 for change1 and then only for a very short time1 should ever be employed as a means of diet to infancy or childhood4 ,it is a thin1 flatulent1 and innutritious food1 and incapable of supporting infantine life with energy4 ,bread1 though the universal rgime with the labouring poor1 where the infant's stomach and digestive powers are a reflex1 in miniature1 of the father's1 should never be given to an infant under three months1 and1 even then1 however finely beaten up and smoothly made1 is a very questionable diet4 ,flour1 when well boiled1 though infinitely better than arrowroot1 is still only a kind of fermentative paste1 that counteracts its own good by after-acidity and flatulence4 #bejj4 ,baked flour1 when cooked into a pale brown mass1 and finely powdered1 makes a far superior food to the others1 and may be considered as a very useful diet1 especially for a change4 ,prepared groats may be classed with arrowroot and raw flour1 as being innutritious4 ,the articles that now follow in our list are all good1 and such as we could1 with conscience and safety1 trust to for the health and development of any child whatever4 #beja4 ,we may observe in this place1 that an occasional change in the character of the food is highly desirable1 both as regards the health and benefit of the child2 and though the interruption should only last for a day1 the change will be advantageous4 #bejb4 ,the packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the best aliment that can be given from the first to a baby1 and may be continued1 with the exception of an occasional change1 without alteration of the material1 till the child is able to take its regular meals of animal and vegetable food4 ,some infants are so constituted as to require a frequent and total change in their system of living1 seeming to thrive for a certain time on any food given to them1 but if persevered in too long1 declining in bulk and appearance as rapidly as they had previously progressed4 ,in such cases the food should be immediately changed1 and when that which appeared to agree best with the child is resumed1 it should be altered in its quality1 and perhaps in its consistency4 #bejc4 ,for the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet1 containing instructions for the making2 but1 whatever the food employed is1 enough should be made at once to last the day and night2 at first1 about a pint basinful1 but1 as the child advances1 a quart will hardly be too much4 ,in all cases1 let the food boil a sufficient time1 constantly stirring1 and taking every precaution that it does not get burnt1 in which case it is on no account to be used4 #bejd4 ,the food should always be made with water1 the whole sweetened at once1 and of such a consistency that1 when poured out1 and it has had time to cool1 it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard4 ,one or two spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on the hob till the heat has softened it1 when enough milk is to be added1 and carefully mixed with the food1 till the whole has the consistency of ordinary cream2 it is then to be poured into the nursing-bottle1 and the food having been drawn through to warm the nipple1 it is to be placed in the child's mouth4 ,for the first month or more1 half a bottleful will be quite enough to give the infant at one time2 but1 as the child grows1 it will be necessary not only to increase the quantity given at each time1 but also gradually to make its food more consistent1 and1 after the third month1 to add an egg to every pint basin of food made4 ,at night the mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp1 instead of the saucepan--that is1 enough for one supply1 and1 having lighted the rush1 she will find1 on the waking of her child1 the food sufficiently hot to bear the cooling addition of the milk4 ,but1 whether night or day1 the same food should never be heated twice1 and what the child leaves should be thrown away4 #beje4 ,the biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceous food1 and both prepared much after the fashion of making starch4 ,but when tops-and-bottoms1 or the whole biscuit1 are employed1 they require soaking in cold water for some time previous to boiling4 ,the biscuit or biscuits are then to be slowly boiled in as much water as will1 when thoroughly soft1 allow of their being beaten by a three-pronged fork into a fine1 smooth1 and even pulp1 and which1 when poured into a basin and become cold1 will cut out like a custard4 ,if two large biscuits have been so treated1 and the child is six or seven months old1 beat up two eggs1 sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it1 and about a pint of skim milk4 ,pour this on the beaten biscuit in the saucepan1 stirring constantly2 boil for about five minutes1 pour into a basin1 and use1 when cold1 in the same manner as the other4 #bejf4 ,this makes an admirable food1 at once nutritious and strengthening4 ,when tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used1 the quantity of the egg may be reduced1 or altogether omitted4 #bejg4 ,semolina1 or manna croup1 being in little hard grains1 like a fine millet-seed1 must be boiled for some time1 and the milk1 sugar1 and egg added to it on the fire1 and boiled for a few minutes longer1 and1 when cold1 used as the other preparations4 #bejh4 ,many persons entertain a belief that cow's milk is hurtful to infants1 and1 consequently1 refrain from giving it2 but this is a very great mistake1 for both sugar and milk should form a large portion of every meal an infant takes4 ,,teething ,,and ,,convulsions4 ,fits1 c41 the consequence of ,dentition1 and how to be treated4--,the number and order of the ,teeth1 and manner in which they are cut4--,first and ,second ,set4 #beji4 ,about three months after birth1 the infant's troubles may be said to begin2 teeth commence forming in the gums1 causing pain and irritation in the mouth1 and which1 but for the saliva it causes to flow so abundantly1 would be attended with very serious consequences4 ,at the same time the mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of the regimen imposed on her1 and1 taking some unusual or different food1 excites diarrhoea or irritation in her child's stomach1 which not unfrequently results in a rash on the skin1 or slight febrile symptoms1 which1 if not subdued in their outset1 superinduce some more serious form of infantine disease4 ,but1 as a general rule1 the teeth are the primary cause of much of the child's sufferings1 in consequence of the state of nervous and functional irritation into which the system is thrown by their formation and progress out of the jaw and through the gums4 ,we propose beginning this branch of our subject with that most fertile source of an infant's suffering-- ,teething4 #beaj4 ,that this subject may he better understood by the nurse and mother1 and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that1 to a greater or less degree1 is experienced by all infants1 may be made intelligible to those who have the care of children1 we shall commence by giving a brief account of the formation of the teeth1 the age at which they appear in the mouth1 and the order in which they pierce the gums4 ,the organs of mastication in the adult consist of #cb distinct teeth1 #af in either jaw2 being1 in fact1 a double set4 ,the teeth are divided into #d incisors1 #b canine1 #d first and second grinders1 and #f molars2 but in childhood the complement or first set consists of only twenty1 and these only make their appearance as the development of the frame indicates the requirement of a different kind of food for the support of the system4 ,at birth some of the first-cut teeth are found in the cavities of the jaw1 in a very small and rudimentary form2 but this is by no means universal4 ,about the third month1 the jaws1 which are hollow and divided into separate cells1 begin to expand1 making room for the slowly developing teeth1 which1 arranged for beauty and economy of space lengthwise1 gradually turn their tops upwards1 piercing the gum by their edges1 which1 being sharp1 assist in cutting a passage through the soft parts4 ,there is no particular period at which children cut their teeth1 some being remarkably early1 and others equally late4 ,the earliest age that we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was1 six weeks4 ,such peculiarities are generally hereditary1 and1 as in this case1 common to a whole family4 ,the two extremes are probably represented by six and sixteen months4 ,pain and drivelling are the usual1 but by no means the general1 indications of teething4 #beaa4 ,about the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen1 presenting a red1 shiny appearance1 while the salivary glands pour out an unusual quantity of saliva4 ,after a time1 a white line or round spot is observed on the top of one part of the gums1 and the sharp edge of the tooth may be felt beneath if the finger is gently pressed on the part4 ,through these white spots the teeth burst their way in the following order3-- #beab4 ,two incisors in the lower jaw are first cut1 though1 in general1 some weeks elapse between the appearance of the first and the advent of the second4 ,the next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw4 ,the next in order are the remaining two incisors of the bottom1 one on each side1 then two top and two bottom on each side1 but not joining the incisors2 and lastly1 about the eighteenth or twentieth month1 the four eye teeth1 filling up the space left between the side teeth and the incisors2 thus completing the infant's set of sixteen4 ,sometimes at the same period1 but more frequently some months later1 four more double teeth slowly make their appearance1 one on each side of each jaw1 completing the entire series of the child's first set of twenty teeth4 ,it is asserted that a child1 while cutting its teeth1 should either dribble excessively1 vomit after every meal1 or be greatly relaxed4 ,though one or other1 or all of these at once1 may attend a case of teething1 it by no means follows that any one of them should accompany this process of nature1 though there can be no doubt that where the pain consequent on the unyielding state of the gums1 and the firmness of the skin that covers the tooth1 is severe1 a copious discharge of saliva acts beneficially in saving the head1 and also in guarding the child from those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in their teething are liable4 #beac4 ,the ,symptoms that generally indicate the cutting of teeth1 in addition to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums1 and increased flow of saliva1 are the restless and peevish state of the child1 the hands being thrust into the mouth1 and the evident pleasure imparted by rubbing the finger or nail gently along the gum2 the lips are often excoriated1 and the functions of the stomach or bowels are out of order4 ,in severe cases1 occurring in unhealthy or scrofulous children1 there are1 from the first1 considerable fever1 disturbed sleep1 fretfulness1 diarrhoea1 rolling of the eyes1 convulsive startings1 laborious breathing1 coma1 or unnatural sleep1 ending1 unless the head is quickly relieved1 in death4 #bead4 ,the ,treatment in all cases of painful teething is remarkably simple1 and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperient medicines1 allaying the irritation in the gums by friction with a rough ivory ring or a stale crust of broad1 and when the head1 lungs1 or any organ is overloaded or unduly excited1 to use the hot bath1 and by throwing the body into a perspiration1 equalize the circulation1 and relieve the system from the danger of a fatal termination4 #beae4 ,besides these1 there is another means1 but that must be employed by a medical man2 namely1 scarifying the gums--an operation always safe1 and which1 when judiciously performed1 and at a critical opportunity1 will often snatch the child from the grasp of death4 #beaf4 ,there are few subjects on which mothers have often formed such strong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant's gums1 some rather seeing their child go into fits--and by the unrelieved irritation endangering inflammation of the brain1 water on the head1 rickets1 and other lingering affections--than permit the surgeon to afford instant relief by cutting through the hard skin1 which1 like a bladder over the stopper of a bottle1 effectually confines the tooth to the socket1 and prevents it piercing the soft1 spongy substance of the gum4 ,this prejudice is a great error1 as we shall presently show2 for1 so far from hurting the child1 there is nothing that will so soon convert an infant's tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painful teething2 that is1 if effectually done1 and the skin of the tooth be divided4 #beag4 ,though teething is a natural function1 and to an infant in perfect health should be unproductive of pain1 yet in general it is not only a fertile cause of suffering1 but often a source of alarm and danger2 the former1 from irritation in the stomach and bowels1 deranging the whole economy of the system1 and the latter1 from coma and fits1 that may excite alarm in severe cases2 and the danger1 that eventuates in some instances1 from organic disease of the head or spinal marrow4 #beah4 ,we shall say nothing in this place of rickets1 or water on the head1 which are frequent results of dental irritation1 but proceed to finish our remarks on the treatment of teething4 ,though strongly advocating the lancing of the gums in teething1 and when there are any severe head-symptoms1 yet it should never be needlessly done1 or before being satisfied that the tooth is fully formed1 and is out of the socket1 and under the gum4 ,when assured on these points1 the gum should be cut lengthwise1 and from the top of the gum downwards to the tooth1 in an horizontal direction1 thus----1 and for about half an inch in length4 ,the operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction1 cutting across the gum1 in the centre of the first incision1 and forming a cross1 thus 4 ,the object of this double incision is to insure a retraction of the cut parts1 and leave an open way for the tooth to start from--an advantage not to be obtained when only one incision is made2 for unless the tooth immediately follows the lancing1 the opening reunites1 and the operation has to be repeated4 ,that this operation is very little or not at all painful1 is evidenced by the suddenness with which the infant falls asleep after the lancing1 and awakes in apparently perfect health1 though immediately before the use of the gum-lancet1 the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions4 ,convulsions1 or ,infantine ,fits4 #beai4 ,from their birth till after teething1 infants are more or less subject or liable to sudden fits1 which often1 without any assignable cause1 will attack the child in a moment1 and while in the mother's arms2 and which1 according to their frequency1 and the age and strength of the infant1 are either slight or dangerous4 #bebj4 ,whatever may have been the remote cause1 the immediate one is some irritation of the nervous system1 causing convulsions1 or an effusion to the head1 inducing coma4 ,in the first instance1 the infant cries out with a quick1 short scream1 rolls up its eyes1 arches its body backwards1 its arms become bent and fixed1 and the fingers parted2 the lips and eyelids assume a dusky leaden colour1 while the face remains pale1 and the eyes open1 glassy1 or staring4 ,this condition may or may not be attended with muscular twitchings of the mouth1 and convulsive plunges of the arms4 ,the fit generally lasts from one to three minutes1 when the child recovers with a sigh1 and the relaxation of the body4 ,in the other case1 the infant is attacked at once with total insensibility and relaxation of the limbs1 coldness of the body and suppressed breathing2 the eyes1 when open1 being dilated1 and presenting a dim glistening appearance2 the infant appearing1 for the moment1 to be dead4 #beba4 ,treatment4-,the first step in either case is1 to immerse the child in a hot bath up to the chin2 or if sufficient hot water cannot be procured to cover the body1 make a hip-bath of what can be obtained2 and1 while the left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbent position1 with the right scoop up the water1 and run it over the chest of the patient4 ,when sufficient water can be obtained1 the spine should be briskly rubbed while in the bath2 when this cannot be done1 lay the child on the knees1 and with the fingers dipped in brandy1 rub the whole length of the spine vigorously for two or three minutes1 and when restored to consciousness1 give occasionally a teaspoonful of weak brandy and water or wine and water4 #bebb4 ,an hour after the bath1 it may be necessary to give an aperient powder1 possibly also to repeat the dose for once or twice every three hours2 in which case the following prescription is to be employed4 ,take of ,powdered scammony #f grains4 ,grey powder #f grains4 ,antimonial powder #d grains4 ,lump sugar #bj grains4 ,mix thoroughly1 and divide into three powders1 which are to be taken as advised for an infant one year old2 for younger or weakly infants1 divide into four powders1 and give as the other4 ,for thirst and febrile symptoms1 give drinks of barley-water1 or cold water1 and every three hours put ten to fifteen drops of spirits of sweet nitre in a dessert-spoonful of either beverage4 ,,thrush1 ,,and ,,its ,,treatment4 #bebc4 ,this is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject1 and in whom alone it may be said to be a disease2 for when thrush shows itself in adult or advanced life1 it is not as a disease proper1 but only as a symptom1 or accessory1 of some other ailment1 generally of a chronic character1 and should no more be classed as a separate affection than the petechae1 or dark-coloured spots that appear in malignant measles1 may be considered a distinct affection4 #bebd4 ,thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of the alimentary canal1 whereby there are formed small vesicles1 or bladders1 filled with a thick mucous secretion1 which1 bursting1 discharge their contents1 and form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel4 ,to make this formal but unavoidable description intelligible1 we must beg the reader's patience while we briefly explain terms that may appear to many so unmeaning1 and make the pathology of thrush fully familiar4 #bebe4 ,the whole digestive canal1 of which the stomach and bowels are only a part1 is covered1 from the lips1 eyes1 and ears downwards1 with a thin glairy tissue1 like the skin that lines the inside of an egg1 called the mucous membrane2 this membrane is dotted all over1 in a state of health1 by imperceptible points1 called follicles1 through which the saliva1 or mucous secreted by the membrane1 is poured out4 #bebf4 ,these follicles1 or little glands1 then1 becoming enlarged1 and filled with a congealed fluid1 constitute thrush in its first stage2 and when the child's lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls1 then1 as these break and discharge1 the second stage1 or that of ulceration1 sets in4 #bebg4 ,symptoms4--,thrush is generally preceded by considerable irritation1 by the child crying and fretting1 showing more than ordinary redness of the lips and nostrils1 hot fetid breath1 with relaxed bowels1 and dark feculent evacuations2 the water is scanty and high-coloured2 whilst considerable difficulty in swallowing1 and much thirst1 are the other symptoms1 which a careful observation of the little patient makes manifest4 #bebh4 ,the situation and character of thrush show at once that the cause is some irritation of the mucous membrane1 and can proceed only from the nature and quality of the food4 ,before weaning1 this must be looked for in the mother1 and the condition of the milk2 after that time1 in the crude and indigestible nature of the food given4 ,in either case1 this exciting cause of the disease must be at once stopped4 ,when it proceeds from the mother1 it is always best to begin by physicking the infant through the parent2 that is to say1 let the parent first take the medicine1 which will sufficiently affect the child through the milk3 this plan has the double object of benefiting the patient and1 at the same time1 correcting the state of the mother1 and improving the condition of her milk4 ,in the other case1 when the child is being fed by hand1 then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given1 and substituting farinaceous food1 custards1 blanc-mange1 and ground-rice puddings4 #bebi4 ,as an aperient medicine for the mother1 the best thing she can take is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day1 in a cup of cold water2 and every second day1 for two or three times1 an aperient pill4 #becj4 ,as the thrush extends all over the mouth1 throat1 stomach1 and bowels1 the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseased surface is proportionately great1 and before attempting to act on such a tender surface by opening medicine1 the better plan is to soothe by an emollient mixture2 and1 for that purpose1 let the following be prepared4 ,take of ,castor oil #b drachms4 ,sugar #a drachm4 ,mucilage1 or powdered gum ,arabic half a drachm4 ,triturate till the oil is incorporated1 then add slowly-- ,mint-water ,one ounce and a half ,laudanum ,ten drops ,half a teaspoonful three times a day1 to an infant from one to two years old2 a teaspoonful from two to three years old2 and a dessertspoonful at any age over that time4 ,after two days' use of the mixture1 one of the following powders should be given twice a day1 accompanied with one dose daily of the mixture3-- ,grey powder #bj grains4 ,powdered rhubarb #ae grains4 ,scammony #aj grains4 ,mix4 ,divide into twelve powders1 for one year2 eight powders1 from one to two2 and six powders1 from two to six years old4 ,after that age1 double the strength1 by giving the quantity of two powders at once4 #beca4 ,it is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouth for thrush2 but it is always better to treat the disease constitutionally rather than locally4 ,the first steps1 therefore1 to be adopted are1 to remove or correct the exciting cause--the mother's milk or food2 allay irritation by a warm bath and the castor-oil mixture1 followed by and conjoined with the powders4 #becb4 ,to those1 however1 who wish to try the honey process1 the best preparation to use is the following3-,rub down one ounce of honey with two drachms of tincture of myrrh1 and apply it to the lips and mouth every four or six hours4 #becc4 ,it is a popular belief1 and one most devoutly cherished by many nurses and elderly persons1 that everybody must1 at some time of their life1 between birth and death1 have an attack of thrush1 and if not in infancy1 or prime of life1 it will surely attack them on their death-bed1 in a form more malignant than if the patient had been affected with the malady earlier2 the black thrush with which they are then reported to be affected being1 in all probability1 the petechae or purple spots that characterize the worst form1 and often the last stage1 of typhoid fever4 #becd4 ,in general1 very little medicine is needed in this disease of the thrush--an alterative powder1 or a little magnesia1 given once or twice1 being all1 with the warm bath1 that1 in the great majority of cases1 is needed to restore the mucous membrane to health4 ,as thrush is caused by an excess of heat1 or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomach and bowels1 whatever will counteract this state1 by throwing the heat on the surface1 must materially benefit1 if not cure1 the disease3 and that means every mother has at hand1 in the form of a warm bath4 ,after the application of this1 a little magnesia to correct the acidity existing along the surface of the mucous membrane1 is often all that is needed to throw the system into such a state as will effect its own cure4 ,this favourable state is indicated by an excessive flow of saliva1 or what is called dribbling1 and by a considerable amount of relaxation of the bowels-a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea1 and checked as if a disease1 but rather1 for the day or two it continues1 encouraged as a critical evacuant4 #bece4 ,should there be much debility in the convalescence1 half a teaspoonful of stee wine1 given twice a day in a little barley-water1 will be found sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic4 ,this1 with the precaution of changing the child's food1 or1 when it lives on the mother1 of correcting the quality of the milk by changing her own diet1 and1 by means of an antacid or aperient1 improving the state of the secretion4 ,such is all the treatment that this disease in general requires4 #becf4 ,the class of diseases we are now approaching are the most important1 both in their pathological features and in their consequences on the constitution1 of any group or individual disease that assails the human body2 and though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frame of childhood1 are yet by no means confined to that period4 ,these are called ,eruptive ,fevers1 and embrace chicken-pox1 cow-pox1 small-pox1 scarlet fever1 measles1 milary fever1 and erysipelas1 or ,st4 ,anthony's fire4 #becg4 ,the general character of all these is1 that they are contagious1 and1 as a general rule1 attack a person only once in his lifetime2 that their chain of diseased actions always begins with fever1 and that1 after an interval of from one to four days1 the fever is followed by an eruption of the skin4 ,,chicken-,,pox1 ,,or ,,glass-,,pox2 ,,and ,,cow-,,pox1 ,,or ,,vaccination4 #bech4 ,,chicken-,,pox1 or ,,glass-,,pox1 may1 in strict propriety1 be classed as a mild variety of small-pox1 presenting all the mitigated symptoms of that formidable disease4 ,among many physicians it is1 indeed1 classed as small-pox1 and not a separate disease2 but as this is not the place to discuss such questions1 and as we profess to give only facts1 the result of our own practical experience1 we shall treat this affection of glass-pox or chicken-pox1 as we ourselves have found it1 as a distinct and separate disease4 #beci4 ,chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented by small-pox1 with this difference1 that1 in the case of chicken-pox1 each symptom is particularly slight4 ,the heat of body is much less acute1 and the principal symptoms are difficulty of breathing1 headache1 coated tongue1 and nausea1 which sometimes amounts to vomiting4 ,after a term of general irritability1 heat1 and restlessness1 about the fourth day1 or between the third and fourth1 an eruption makes its appearance over the face1 neck1 and body1 in its first two stages closely resembling small-pox1 with this especial difference1 that whereas the pustules in small-pox have flat and depressed centres--an infallible characteristic of small-pox--the pustules in chicken-pox remain globular1 while the fluid in them changes from a transparent white to a straw-coloured liquid1 which begins to exude and disappear about the eighth or ninth day1 and1 in mild cases1 by the twelfth desquamates1 or peels off entirely4 #bedj4 ,there can be no doubt that chicken-pox1 like small-pox1 is contagious1 and under certain states of the atmosphere becomes endemic4 ,parents should1 therefore1 avoid exposing young children to the danger of infection by taking them where it is known to exist1 as chicken-pox1 in weakly constitutions1 or in very young children1 may superinduce small-pox1 the one disease either running concurrently with the other1 or discovering itself as the other declines4 ,this1 of course1 is a condition that renders the case very hazardous1 as the child has to struggle against two diseases at once1 or before it has recruited strength from the attack of the first4 #beda4 ,treatment4--,in all ordinary cases of chicken-pox--and it is very seldom it assumes any complexity--the whole treatment resolves itself into the use of the warm bath1 and a course of gentle aperients4 ,the bath should be used when the oppression of the lungs renders the breathing difficult1 or the heat and dryness of the skin1 with the undeveloped rash beneath the surface1 shows the necessity for its use4 #bedb4 ,as the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state of suppuration1 as in the other disease1 there is no fear of pitting or disfigurement1 except in very severe forms1 which1 however1 happen so seldom as not to merit apprehension4 ,when the eruption subsides1 however1 the face may be washed with elder-flower water1 and the routine followed which is prescribed in the convalescent state of small-pox4 #bedc4 ,,cow-,,pox1 properly speaking1 is an artificial disease1 established in a healthy body as a prophylactic1 or preventive agent1 against the more serious attack of small-pox1 and is merely that chain of slight febrile symptoms and local irritation1 consequent on the specific action of the lymph of the vaccination1 in its action on the circulating system of the body4 ,this is not the place to speak of the benefits conferred on mankind by the discovery of vaccination1 not only as the preserver of the human features from a most loathsome disfigurement1 but as a sanitary agent in the prolongation of life4 #bedd4 ,fortunately the ,state has now made it imperative on all parents to have their children vaccinated before1 or by the end of1 the twelfth week2 thus doing away1 as far as possible1 with the danger to public health proceeding from the ignorance or prejudice of those parents whose want of information on the subject makes them object to the employment of this specific preventive2 for though vaccination has been proved not to be always an infallible guard against small-pox1 the attack is always much lighter1 should it occur1 and is seldom1 if indeed ever1 fatal after the precaution of vaccination4 ,the best time to vaccinate a child is after the sixth and before the twelfth week1 if it is in perfect health1 but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent1 and any danger exists of the infant taking the disease4 ,it is customary1 and always advisable1 to give the child a mild aperient powder one or two days before inserting the lymph in the arm2 and should measles1 scarlet fever1 or any other disease arise during the progress of the pustule1 the child1 when recovered1 should be re-vaccinated1 and the lymph taken from its arm on no account used for vaccinating purposes4 #bede4 ,the disease of cow-pox generally takes twenty days to complete its course2 in other words1 the maturity and declension of the pustule takes that time to fulfil its several changes4 ,the mode of vaccination is either to insert the matter1 or lymph1 taken from a healthy child1 under the cuticle in several places on both arms1 or1 which is still better1 to make three slight scratches1 or abrasions1 with a lancet on one arm in this manner1 1111 and work into the irritated parts the lymph1 allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting down the infant's sleeve2 by this means absorption is insured1 and the unnecessary pain of several pustules on both arms avoided4 ,no apparent change is observable by the eye for several days2 indeed1 not till the fourth1 in many cases1 is there any evidence of a vesicle2 about the fifth day1 however1 a pink areola1 or circle1 is observed round one or all of the places1 surrounding a small pearly vesicle or bladder4 ,this goes on deepening in hue till the seventh or eighth day1 when the vesicle is about an inch in diameter1 with a depressed centre2 on the ninth the edges are elevated1 and the surrounding part hard and inflamed4 ,the disease is now at its height1 and the pustule should be opened1 if not for the purpose of vaccinating other children1 to allow the escape of the lymph1 and subdue the inflammatory action4 ,after the twelfth day the centre is covered by a brown scab1 and the colour of the swelling becomes darker1 gradually declining in hardness and colour till the twentieth1 when the scab falls1 off1 leaving a small pit1 or cicatrix1 to mark the seat of the disease1 and for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination4 #bedf4 ,in some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm is excessive1 and extremely painful1 and the fever1 about the ninth or tenth day1 very high2 the pustule1 therefore1 at that time1 should sometimes be opened1 the arm fomented every two hours with a warm bread poultice1 and an aperient powder given to the infant4 ,,measles ,,and ,,scarlet ,,fever1 ,,with ,,the ,,treatment ,,of ,,both4 ,measles4 #bedg4 ,this much-dreaded disease1 which forms the next subject in our series of infantine diseases1 and which entails more evils on the health of childhood than any other description of physical suffering to which that age of life is subject1 may be considered more an affection of the venous circulation1 tending to general and local congestion1 attended with a diseased condition of the blood1 than either as a fever or an inflammation2 and though generally classed before or after scarlet fever1 is1 in its pathology and treatment1 irrespective of its after-consequences1 as distinct and opposite as one disease can well be from another4 #dedh4 ,as we have already observed1 measles are always characterized by the running at the nose and eyes1 and great oppression of breathing2 so1 in the mode of treatment1 two objects are to be held especially in view2 first1 to unload the congested state of the lungs1--the cause of the oppressed breathing2 and1 secondly1 to act vigorously1 both during the disease and afterwards1 on the bowels4 ,at the same time it cannot be too strongly borne in mind1 that though the patient in measles should on no account be kept unduly hot1 more care than in most infantine complaints should be taken to guard the body from cold1 or any abrupt changes of temperature4 ,with these special observations1 we shall proceed to give a description of the disease1 as recognized by its usual-- #bedi4 ,symptoms1 which commence with cold chills and flushes1 lassitude1 heaviness1 pain in the head1 and drowsiness1 cough1 hoarseness1 and extreme difficulty of breathing1 frequent sneezing1 deduction or running at the eyes and nose1 nausea1 sometimes vomiting1 thirst1 a furred tongue2 the pulse throughout is quick1 and sometimes full and soft1 at others hard and small1 with other indications of an inflammatory nature4 #beej4 ,on the third day1 small red points make their appearance1 first on the face and neck1 gradually extending over the upper and lower part of the body4 ,on the fifth day1 the vivid red of the eruption changes into a brownish hue2 and1 in two or three days more1 the rash entirely disappears1 leaving a loose powdery desquamation on the skin1 which rubs off like dandriff4 ,at this stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequently comes on1 which1 being what is called critical1 should never be checked1 unless seriously severe4 ,measles sometimes assume a typhoid or malignant character1 in which form the symptoms are all greatly exaggerated1 and the case from the first becomes both doubtful and dangerous4 ,in this condition the eruption comes out sooner1 and only in patches2 and often1 after showing for a few hours1 suddenly recedes1 presenting1 instead of the usual florid red1 a dark purple or blackish hue2 a dark brown fur forms on the gums and mouth1 the breathing becomes laborious1 delirium supervenes1 and1 if unrelieved1 is followed by coma2 a fetid diarrhoea takes place1 and the patient sinks under the congested state of the lungs and the oppressed functions of the brain4 #beea4 ,the unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever1 the excessive heat and dryness of the skin1 hurried and short breathing1 and a particularly hard pulse4 ,the sequels1 or after-consequences1 of measles are1 croup1 bronchitis1 mesenteric disease1 abscesses behind the ear1 ophthalmia1 and glandular swellings in other parts of the body4 #beeb4 ,treatment4--,in the first place1 the patient should be kept in a cool room1 the temperature of which must be regulated to suit the child's feelings of comfort1 and the diet adapted to the strictest principles of abstinence4 ,when the inflammatory symptoms are severe1 bleeding1 in some form1 is often necessary1 though1 when adopted1 it must be in the first stage of the disease2 and1 if the lungs are the apprehended seat of the inflammation1 two or more leeches1 according to the age and strength of the patient1 must be applied to the upper part of the chest1 followed by a small blister2 or the blister may be substituted for the leeches1 the attendant bearing in mind1 that the benefit effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented by plunging the feet into very hot water about a couple of hours after applying the blister1 and kept in the water for about two minutes4 ,and let it further be remembered1 that this immersion of the feet in hot water may be adopted at any time or stage of the disease2 and that1 whenever the head or lungs are oppressed1 relief will always accrue from its sudden and brief employment4 ,when the symptoms commence with much shivering1 and the skin early assumes a hot1 dry character1 the appearance of the rash will be facilitated1 and all the other symptoms rendered milder1 if the patient is put into a warm bath1 and kept in the water for about three minutes4 ,or1 where that is not convenient1 the following process1 which will answer quite as well1 can be substituted3--,stand the child1 naked1 in a tub1 and1 having first prepared several jugs of sufficiently warm water1 empty them1 in quick succession1 over the patient's shoulders and body2 immediately wrap in a hot blanket1 and put the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep that always follows the effusion or bath4 ,this agent1 by lowering the temperature of the skin1 and opening the pores1 producing a natural perspiration1 and unloading the congested state of the lungs1 in most cases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches and a blister4 ,whether any of these external means have been employed or not1 the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperient powders and a saline mixture1 as prescribed in the following formularies2 at the same time1 as a beverage to quench the thirst1 let a quantity of barley-water be made1 slightly acidulated by the juice of an orange1 and partially sweetened by some sugar-candy2 and of which1 when properly made and cold1 let the patient drink as often as thirst1 or the dryness of the mouth1 renders necessary4 #beec4 ,aperient ,powders4--,take of scammony and jalap1 each #bd grains2 grey powder and powdered antimony1 each #ah grains4 ,mix and divide into #ab powders1 if for a child between two and four years of age2 into #h powders1 if for a child between four and eight years of ago2 and into #f powders for between eight and twelve years4 ,one powder to be given1 in a little jelly or sugar-and-water1 every three or four hours1 according to the severity of the symptoms4 #beed4 ,saline ,mixture4--,take of mint-water1 #f ounces2 powdered nitre1 #bj grains2 antimonial wine1 #c drachms2 spirits of nitre1 #b drachms2 syrup of saffron1 #b drachms4 ,mix4 ,to children under three years1 give a teaspoonful every two hours2 from that age to six1 a dessertspoonful at the same times2 and a tablespoonful every three or four hours to children between six and twelve4 #beee4 ,the object of these aperient powders is to keep up a steady but gentle action on the bowels2 but1 whenever it seems necessary to administer a stronger dose1 and effect a brisk action on the digestive organs1--a course particularly imperative towards the close of the disease1--two of these powders given at once1 according to the age1 will be found to produce that effect2 that is1 two of the twelve for a child under four years1 and two of the eight1 and two of the six1 according to the age of the patient4 #beef4 ,when the difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive1 as it generally does towards night1 a hot bran poultice1 laid on the chest1 will be always found highly beneficial4 ,the diet throughout must be light1 and consist of farinaceous food1 such as rice and sago puddings1 beef-tea and toast2 and not till convalescence sets in should hard or animal food be given4 #beeg4 ,when measles assume the malignant form1 the advice just given must be broken through2 food of a nutritious and stimulating character should be at once substituted1 and administered in conjunction with wine1 and even spirits1 and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus4 ,but1 as this form of measles is not frequent1 and1 if occurring1 hardly likely to be treated without assistance1 it is unnecessary to enter on the minutiae of its practice here4 ,what we have prescribed1 in almost all cases1 will be found sufficient to meet every emergency1 without resorting to a multiplicity of agents4 #beeh4 ,the great point to remember in measles is1 not to give up the treatment with the apparent subsidence of the disease1 as the after-consequences of measles are too often more serious1 and to be more dreaded1 than the measles themselves4 ,to guard against this danger1 and thoroughly purify the system1 after the subsidence of all the symptoms of the disease1 a corrective course of medicine1 and a regimen of exercise1 should be adopted for some weeks after the cure of the disease4 ,to effect this1 an active aperient powder should be given every three or four clays1 with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mixture1 with as much exercise1 by walking1 running after a hoop1 or other bodily exertion1 as the strength of the child and the state of the atmosphere will admit1 the patient being1 wherever possible1 removed to a purer air as soon as convalescence warrants the change4 #beei4 ,tonic ,mixture4--,take of infusion of rose-leaves1 #f ounces2 quinine1 #h grains2 diluted sulphuric acid1 #ae drops4 ,mix4 ,dose1 from half a teaspoonful up to a dessertspoonful1 once a day1 according to the ago of the patient4 ,scarlatina1 or ,scarlet ,fever4 #befj4 ,though professional accuracy has divided this disease into several forms1 we shall keep to the one disease most generally mot with1 the common or simple scarlet fever1 which1 in all cases1 is characterized by an excessive heat on the skin1 sore throat1 and a peculiar speckled appearance of the tongue4 #befa4 ,symptoms4--,cold chills1 shivering1 nausea1 thirst1 hot skin1 quick pulse1 with difficulty of swallowing2 the tongue is coated1 presenting through its fur innumerable specks1 the elevated papillae of the tongue1 which gives it the speckled character1 that1 if not the invariable sign of scarlet fever1 is only met with in cases closely analogous to that disease4 ,between the second and third day1 but most frequently on the third1 a bright red efflorescence breaks out in patches on the face1 neck1 and back1 from which it extends over the trunk and extremities1 always showing thicker and deeper in colour wherever there is any pressure1 such as the elbows1 back1 and hips2 when the eruption is well out1 the skin presents the appearance of a boiled lobster-shell4 ,at first1 the skin is smooth1 but1 as the disease advances1 perceptible roughness is apparent1 from the elevation of the rash1 or1 more properly1 the pores of the skin4 ,on the fifth and sixth days the eruption begins to decline1 and by the eighth has generally entirely disappeared4 ,during the whole of this period1 there is1 more or less1 constant sore throat4 #befb4 ,the ,treatment of scarlet fever is1 in general1 very simple4 ,where the heat is great1 and the eruption comes out with difficulty1 or recedes as soon as it appears1 the body should be sponged with cold vinegar-and-water1 or tepid water1 as in measles1 poured over the chest and body1 the patient being1 as in that disease1 wrapped in a blanket and put to bed1 and the same powders and mixture ordered in measles administered1 with the addition of a constant hot bran poultice round the throat1 which should be continued from the first symptom till a day or two after the declension of the rash4 ,the same low diet and cooling drink1 with the same general instructions1 are to be obeyed in this as in the former disease4 #befc4 ,when the fever runs high in the first stage1 and there is much nausea1 before employing the effusions of water1 give the patient an emetic1 of equal1 parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine1 in doses of from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful1 according to age4 ,by these means1 nine out of every ten cases of scarlatina may be safely and expeditiously cured1 especially if the temperature of the patient's room is kept at an even standard of about sixty degrees4 ,,hooping-,,cough1 ,,croup1 ,,and ,,diarrhoea1 ,,with ,,their ,,mode ,,of ,,treatment4 ,hooping-,cough4 #befd4 ,,this is purely a spasmodic disease1 and is only infectious through the faculty of imitation1 a habit that all children are remarkably apt to fall into2 and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough1 it has been from the same cause1 and is as readily accounted for1 on the principle of imitation1 as that the gaping of one person will excite or predispose a whole party to follow the same spasmodic example4 ,if any one associates for a few days with a person who stammers badly1 he will find1 when released from his company1 that the sequence of his articulation and the fluency of his speech are1 for a time1 gone2 and it will be a matter of constant vigilance1 and some difficulty1 to overcome the evil of so short an association4 ,the manner in which a number of school-girls will1 one after another1 fall into a fit on beholding one of their number attacked with epilepsy1 must be familiar to many4 ,these several facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this spasmodic disease4 ,every effort should1 therefore1 be directed1 mentally and physically1 to break the chain of nervous action1 on which the continuance of the cough depends4 #befe4 ,symptoms4--,hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression of breathing1 thirst1 quick pulse1 hoarseness1 and a hard1 dry cough4 ,this state may exist without any change from one to two or three weeks before the peculiar feature of the disease-the hoop-sets in4 ,as the characteristics of this cough are known to all1 it is unnecessary to enter here1 physiologically1 on the subject4 ,we shall1 therefore1 merely remark that the frequent vomiting and bleeding at the mouth or nose are favourable signs1 and proceed to the #beff4 ,treatment1 which should consist in keeping up a state of nausea and vomiting4 ,for this purpose1 give the child doses of ipecacuanha and antimonial wines1 in equal parts1 and quantities varying from half to one and a half teaspoonful once a day1 or1 when the expectoration is hard and difficult of expulsion1 giving the following cough mixture every four hours4 ,take of ,syrup of squills #a_/b ounce4 ,antimonial wine #a ounce4 ,laudanum #ae drops4 ,syrup of ,toulou #b drachms4 ,water #a-a_/b ounce4 ,mix4 ,the dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful4 ,when the cough is urgent1 the warm bath is to be used1 and either one or two leeches applied over the breastbone1 or else a small blister laid on the lower part of the throat4 #befg4 ,such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough2 but there is a moral regimen1 based on the nature of the disease1 which should never be omitted4 ,and1 on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of the mind will arrest a person in the act of sneezing or gaping1 so the like means should be adopted with the hooping-cough patient2 and1 in the first stage1 before the hooping has been added1 the parent should endeavour to break the paroxysm of the cough by abruptly attracting the patient's attention1 and thus1 if possible1 preventing the cough from reaching that height when the ingulp of air gives the hoop or crow that marks the disease2 but when once that symptom has set in1 it becomes still more necessary to endeavour1 by even measures of intimidation1 to break the spasmodic chain of the cough4 ,exercise in the open air1 when dry1 is also requisite1 and charge of scene and air in all cases is of absolute necessity1 and may be adopted at any stage of the disease4 ,croup4 #befh4 ,this is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseases to which infancy and childhood are liable1 and is purely an inflammatory affection1 attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining the windpipe and bronchial tubes1 and from the effect of which a false or loose membrane is formed along the windpipe1 resembling in appearance the finger of a glove suspended in the passage1 and1 consequently1 terminating the life of the patient by suffocation2 for1 as the lower end grows together and becomes closed1 no air can enter the lungs1 and the child dies choked4 ,all dull1 fat1 and heavy children are peculiarly predisposed to this disease1 and those with short necks and who make a wheezing noise in their natural breathing4 ,croup is always sudden in its attack1 and rapid in its career1 usually proving fatal within three days2 most frequently commences in the night1 and generally attacking children between the ages of three and ten years4 ,mothers should1 therefore1 be on their guard who have children predisposed to this disease1 and immediately resort to the means hereafter advised4 #befi4 ,symptoms4--,languor and restlessness1 hoarseness1 wheezing1 and short1 dry cough1 with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep1 the child often plucking at its throat with its fingers2 difficulty of breathing1 which quickly becomes hard and laboured1 causing great anxiety of the countenance1 and the veins of the neck to swell and become knotted2 the voice in speaking acquires a sharp1 crowing1 or croupy sound1 while the inspirations have a harsh1 metallic intonation4 ,after a few hours1 a quantity of thick1 ropy mucus is thrown out1 hanging about the mouth1 and causing suffocating fits of coughing to expel4 #begj4 ,treatment4--,place the child immediately in a hot bath up to the throat2 and1 on removal from the water1 give an emetic of the antimonial or ipecacuanha wine1 and1 when the vomiting has subsided1 lay a long blister down the front of the throat1 and administer one of the following powders every twenty minutes to a child from three to six years of age4 #bega4 ,take of calomel1 #ab grains2 tartar emetic1 #b grains2 lump sugar1 #cj grains4 ,mix accurately1 and divide into #ab powders4 ,for a child from six to twelve years1 divide into #f powders1 and give one every half-hour4 #begb4 ,should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours1 apply one or two leeches to the throat1 and put mustard poultices to the foot and thighs1 retaining them about eight minutes2 and1 in extreme cases1 a mustard poultice to the spine between the shoulders1 and at the same time rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws4 #begc4 ,such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severe cases of croup2 but1 in the milder and more general form1 the following abridgment will1 in all probability1 be all that will be required3--,first1 the hot bath2 second1 the emetic2 third1 a mustard plaster round the throat for five minutes2 fourth1 the powders2 fifth1 another emetic in six hours1 if needed1 and the powders continued without intermission while the urgency of the symptoms continues4 ,when relief has been obtained1 these are to be discontinued1 and a dose of senna tea given to act on the bowels4 ,diarrhoea4 #begd4 ,the diarrhoea with which children are so frequently affected1 especially in infancy1 should demand the nurse's immediate attention1 and when the secretion1 from its clayey colour1 indicates an absence of bile1 a powder composed of #c grains of grey powder and #a grain of rhubarb1 should be given twice1 with an interval of four hours between each dose1 to a child from one to two years1 and1 a day or two afterwards1 an aperient powder containing the same ingredients and quantities1 with the addition of #b or #c grains of scammony4 ,for the relaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach1 or acidity in the bowels1 a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two or three times a day4 #bege4 ,when much griping and pain attend the diarrhoea1 half a teaspoonful of ,dalby's ,carminative 7the best of all patent medicines7 should be given1 either with or without a small quantity of castor oil to carry off the exciting cause4 #begf4 ,for any form of diarrhoea that1 by excessive action1 demands a speedy correction1 the most efficacious remedy that can be employed in all ages and conditions of childhood is the tincture of ,kino1 of which from #aj to #cj drops1 mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon1 are to be given every two or three hours till the undue action has been checked4 ,often the change of diet to rice1 milk1 eggs1 or the substitution of animal for vegetable food1 or vice versa1 will correct an unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea4 #begg4 ,a very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be kept in the house1 and employed with advantage1 whenever the child is in pain or griped1 by dropping #e grains of oil of aniseed and #b of peppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar1 and rubbing it in a mortar1 with a drachm of magnesia1 into a fine powder4 ,a small quantity of this may be given in a little water at any time1 and always with benefit4 ,,the ,,doctor4 ,,chapter ,,xliii4 #begh4 ,time1 according to the old proverb1 is money2 and it may also1 in many cases1 and with equal truthfulness1 be said to be life2 for a few moments1 in great emergencies1 often turn the balance between recovery and death4 ,this applies more especially to all kinds of poisoning1 fits1 submersion in water1 or exposure to noxious gases2 and many accidents4 ,if people knew how to act during the interval that must necessarily elapse from the moment that a medical man is sent for until he arrives1 many lives might be saved1 which now1 unhappily1 are lost4 ,generally speaking1 however1 nothing is done--all is confusion and fright2 and the surgeon1 on his arrival1 finds that death has already seized its victim1 who1 had his friends but known a few rough rules for their guidance1 might have been rescued4 ,we shall1 therefore1 in a series of papers1 give such information as to the means to be employed in event of accidents1 injuries1 c41 as1 by the aid of a gentleman of large professional experience1 we are warranted in recommending4 ,list of ,drugs1 c41 necessary to carry out all ,instructions4 #begi4 ,we append at once ,a ,,list ,,of ,,drugs1 c41 and a few ,,prescriptions necessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series of articles4 ,it will be seen that they are few--they are not expensive2 and by laying in a little stock of them1 our instructions will be of instant value in all cases of accident1 c4--,the drugs are--,antimonial ,wine4 ,antimonial ,powder4 ,blister ,compound4 ,blue ,pill4 ,calomel4 ,carbonate of ,potash4 ,compound ,iron ,pills4 ,compound ,extract of ,colocynth4 ,compound ,tincture of ,camphor4 ,epsom ,salts4 ,goulard's ,extract4 ,jalap in ,powder4 ,linseed ,oil4 ,myrrh and ,aloes ,pills4 ,nitre4 ,oil of ,turpentine4 ,opium1 powdered1 and ,laudanum4 ,sal ,ammoniac4 ,senna ,leaves4 ,soap ,liniment1 ,opodeldoc4 ,sweet ,spirits of ,nitre4 ,turner's ,cerate4--,to which should be added3 ,common ,adhesive ,plaster4 ,isinglass ,plaster4 ,lint4 ,a pair of small ,scales with ,weights4 ,an ounce and a drachm ,measure-glass4 ,a ,lancet4 ,a ,probe4 ,a pair of ,forceps1 and some curved ,needles4 #behj4 ,the following ,,prescriptions may be made up for a few shillings2 and1 by keeping them properly labelled1 and by referring to the remarks on the treatment of any particular case1 much suffering1 and1 perhaps1 some lives1 may be saved4 #beha4 ,draught4--,twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water4 ,this draught is to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not take place4 #behb4 ,clyster4--,two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel4 #behc4 ,liniments4--#a4 ,equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil well mixed together4 ,lime-water is made thus3 ,pour #f pints of boiling water upon #a_/d lb4 of lime2 mix well together1 and when cool1 strain the liquid from off the lime which has fallen to the bottom1 taking care to get it as clear as possible4 #b4 ,compound camphor liniment4 #behd4 ,lotions4--#a4 ,mix a dessert-spoonful of ,goulard's extract and #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water4--#b4 ,mix #a_/b oz4 of sal-ammoniac1 #b tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 and the same quantity of gin or whisky1 in half a pint of water4 #behe4 ,goulard ,lotion4--#a drachm of sugar of lead1 #b pints of rain-water1 #b teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine4 ,for inflammation of the eyes or elsewhere3--,the better way of making ,goulard ,lotion1 if for the eyes1 is to add to #f oz4 of distilled water1 or water that has been well boiled1 #a drachm of the extract of lead4 #behf4 ,opodeldoc4--,this lotion being a valuable application for sprains1 lumbago1 weakness of joints1 c41 and it being difficult to procure either pure or freshly made1 we give a recipe for its preparation4 ,dissolve #a oz4 of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of wine2 then dissolve #d oz4 of hard white ,spanish soap1 scraped thin1 in #d oz4 of oil of rosemary1 and mix them together4 #behg4 ,the ,common ,black ,draught4--,infusion of senna #aj drachms2 ,epsom salts #aj drachms2 tincture of senna1 compound tincture of cardamums1 compound spirit of lavender1 of each #a drachm4 ,families who make black draught in quantity1 and wish to preserve it for some time without spoiling1 should add about #b drachms of spirits of hartshorn to each pint of the strained mixture1 the use of this drug being to prevent its becoming mouldy or decomposed4 ,a simpler and equally efficacious form of black draught is made by infusing #a_/b oz4 of ,alexandrian senna1 #c oz4 of ,epsom salts1 and #b drachms of bruised ginger and coriander-seeds1 for several hours in a pint of boiling water1 straining the liquor1 and adding either #b drachms of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to the whole1 and giving #c tablespoonfuls for a dose to an adult4 #behh4 ,mixtures--#a4 ,aperient4--,dissolve an ounce of ,epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea3 take a quarter of the mixture as a dose1 and repeat it in three or four hours if necessary4 #behi4 #b4 ,fever ,mixture4--,mix a drachm of powdered nitre1 #b drachms of carbonate of potash1 #b teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine1 and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre1 in half a pint of water4 #beij4 #c4 ,myrrh and ,aloes ,pills4--,ten grains made into two pills are the dose for a full-grown person4 #beia4 #d4 ,compound ,iron ,pills4--,dose for a full-grown person3 #aj grains made into two pills4 #beib4 ,pills4--#a4 ,mix #e grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb1 and make into two pills4 ,dose for a full-grown person3 two pills4--#b4 ,mix #e grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth together1 and make into two pills1 the dose for a full-grown person4 #beic4 ,powders4--,mix a grain of calomel and #d grains of powdered jalap together4 #beid4 ,in all cases1 the dose of medicines given is to be regulated by the age of the patient4 #beie4 ,abernethy's ,plan for making a ,bread-and-,water ,poultice4--,first scald out a basin2 then having put in some boiling water1 throw in coarsely-crumbled bread1 and cover it with a plate4 ,when the bread has soaked up as much water as it will imbibe1 drain off the remaining water1 and there will be left a light pulp4 ,spread it a third of an inch thick on folded linen1 and apply it when of the temperature of a warm bath4 ,to preserve it moist1 occasionally drop warm water on it4 #beif4 ,linseed-,meal ,poultice4--,scald your basin1 by pouring a little hot water into it2 then put a small quantity of finely-ground linseed-meal into the basin1 pour a little hot water on it1 and stir it round briskly until you have well incorporated them2 add a little more meal and a little more water2 then stir it again4 ,do not let any lumps remain in the basin1 but stir the poultice well1 and do not be sparing of your trouble4 ,what you do next1 is to take as much of it out of the basin as you may require1 lay it on a piece of soft linen1 and let it be about a quarter of an inch thick4--,abernethy4 #beig4 ,mustard ,poultice4--,mix equal parts of dry mustard and linseed-meal in warm vinegar4 ,when the poultice is wanted weak1 warm water may be used for the vinegar2 and when it is required very strong1 mustard alone1 without any linseed-meal1 is to be mixed with warm vinegar4 #beih4 ,an ordinary ,blister4--,spread a little blister compound on a piece of common adhesive plaster with the right thumb4 ,it should be put on just thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath4 ,the part from which a blister has been taken should be covered till it heals over with soft linen rags smeared with lard4 ,baths and ,fomentations4 #beii4 ,all fluid applications to the body are exhibited either in a hot or cold form2 and the object for which they are administered is to produce a stimulating effect over the entire1 or a part1 of the system2 for the effect1 though differently obtained1 and varying in degree1 is the same in principle1 whether procured by hot or cold water4 #bfjj4 ,heat4--,there are three forms in which heat is universally applied to the body1--that of the tepid1 warm1 and vapour bath2 but as the first is too inert to be worth notice1 and the last dangerous and inapplicable1 except in public institutions1 we shall confine our remarks to the really efficacious and always attainable one--the #bfja4 ,warm and ,hot ,bath4--,these baths are used whenever there is congestion1 or accumulation of blood in the internal organs1 causing pain1 difficulty of breathing1 or stupor1 and are employed1 by their stimulating property1 to cause a rush of blood to the surface1 and1 by unloading the great organs1 produce a temporary inflammation in the skin1 and so equalize the circulation4 ,the effect of the hot bath is to increase the fulness of the pulse1 accelerate respiration1 and excite perspiration4 ,in all inflammations of the stomach and bowels1 the hot bath is of the utmost consequence2 the temperature of the warm bath varies from #ib to #ajj1 and may be obtained by those who have no thermometer to test the exact heat1 by mixing one measure of boiling with two of cold water4 #bfjb4 ,fomentations are generally used to effect1 in a part1 the benefit produced on the whole body by the bath2 to which a sedative action is occasionally given by the use of roots1 herbs1 or other ingredients2 the object being to relieve the internal organ1 as the throat1 or muscles round a joint1 by exciting a greater flow of blood to the skin over the affected part4 ,as the real agent of relief is heat1 the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably be borne1 and1 to insure effect1 should be repeated every half-hour4 ,warm fluids are applied in order to render the swelling which accompanies inflammation less painful1 by the greater readiness with which the skin yields1 than when it is harsh and dry4 ,they are of various kinds2 but the most simple1 and oftentimes the most useful1 that can be employed1 is ,warm ,water4 ,another kind of fomentation is composed of dried poppyheads1 #d oz4 ,break them to pieces1 empty out the seeds1 put them into #d pints of water1 boil for a quarter of an hour1 then strain through a cloth or sieve1 and keep the water for use4 ,or1 chamomile flowers1 hemlock1 and many other plants1 may be boiled1 and the part fomented with the hot liquor1 by means of flannels wetted with the decoction4 #bfjc4 ,cold1 when applied in excess to the body1 drives the blood from the surface to the centre1 reduces the pulse1 makes the breathing hard and difficult1 produces coma1 and1 if long continued1 death4 ,but when medicinally used1 it excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to a stimulating effect2 as in some cases of fever1 when the body has been sponged with cold water1 it excites1 by reaction1 increased circulation on the skin4 ,cold is sometimes used to keep up a repellent action1 as1 when local inflammation takes place1 a remedy is applied1 which1 by its benumbing and astringent effect1 causes the blood1 or the excess of it in the part1 to recede1 and1 by contracting the vessels1 prevents the return of any undue quantity1 till the affected part recovers its tone4 ,such remedies are called ,lotions1 and should1 when used1 be applied with the same persistency as the fomentation2 for1 as the latter should be renewed as often as the heat passes off1 so the former should be applied as often as the heat from the skin deprives the application of its cold4 #bfjd4 ,poultices are only another form of fomentation1 though chiefly used for abscesses4 ,the ingredient best suited for a poultice is that which retains heat the longest2 of these ingredients1 the best are linseed--meal1 bran1 and bread4 ,bran sewed into a bag1 as it can be reheated1 will be found the cleanest and most useful2 especially for sore throats4 ,how to ,bleed4 #bfje4 ,in cases of great emergency1 such as the strong kind of apoplexy1 and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerable time1 the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact of his being bled or not4 ,we therefore give instructions how the operation of bleeding is to be performed1 but caution the reader only to attempt it in cases of the greatest emergency4 ,place a handkerchief or piece of tape rather but not too tightly round the arm1 about three or four inches above the elbow4 ,this will cause the veins below to swell and become very evident4 ,if this is not sufficient1 the hand should be constantly and quickly opened and shut for the same purpose4 ,there will now be seen1 passing up the middle of the fore-arm1 a vein which1 just below the bend of the elbow1 sends a branch inwards and outwards1 each branch shortly joining another large vein4 ,it is from the outer branch--that the person is to be bled4 ,the right arm is the one mostly operated on4 ,the operator should take the lancet in his right hand1 between the thumb and first finger1 place the thumb of his left hand on the vein below the part where he is going to bleed from1 and then gently thrust the tip of the lancet into the vein1 and1 taking care not to push it too deeply1 cut in a gently curved direction1 thus and bring it out1 point upwards1 at about half an inch from the part of the vein into which he had thrust it4 ,the vein must be cut lengthways1 and not across4 ,when sufficient blood has been taken away1 remove the bandage from above the elbow1 and place the thumb of the left hand firmly over the cut1 until all the bleeding ceases4 ,a small pad of lint is then to be put over the cut1 with a larger pad over it1 and the two kept in their places by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty tightly over them and round the arm4 #bfjf4 ,when a person is bled1 he should always be in the standing1 or at any rate in the sitting1 position2 for if1 as is often the case1 he should happen to faint1 he can1 in1 most eases at least1 easily be brought to again by the operator placing him flat on his back1 and stopping the bleeding4 ,this is of the greatest importance4 ,it has been recommended1 for what supposed advantages we don't know1 to bleed people when they are lying down4 ,should a person1 under these circumstances1 faint1 what could be done to bring him to again8 ,the great treatment of lowering the body of the patient to the flat position cannot be followed here4 ,it is in that position already1 and cannot be placed lower than it at present is--except1 as is most likely to be the case1 under the ground4 #bfjg4 ,,bleeding ,,from ,,the ,,nose4--,many children1 especially those of a sanguineous temperament1 are subject to sudden discharges of blood from some part of the body2 and as all such fluxes are in general the result of an effort of nature to relieve the system from some overload or pressure1 such discharges1 unless in excess1 and when likely to produce debility1 should not be rashly or too abruptly checked4 ,in general1 these discharges are confined to the summer or spring months of the year1 and follow pains in the head1 a sense of drowsiness1 languor1 or oppression2 and1 as such symptoms are relieved by the loss of blood1 the hemorrhage should1 to a certain extent1 be encouraged4 ,when1 however1 the bleeding is excessive1 or returns too frequently1 it becomes necessary to apply means to subdue or mitigate the amount4 ,for this purpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is itself sufficient1 in most cases1 to arrest the most active hemorrhage4 ,a wet towel laid suddenly on the back1 between the shoulders1 and placing the child in a recumbent posture1 is often sufficient to effect the object2 where1 however1 the effusion resists such simple means1 napkins wrung out of cold water must be laid across the forehead and nose1 the hands dipped in cold water1 and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet4 ,if1 in spite of these means1 the bleeding continues1 a little fine wool or a few folds of lint1 tied together by a piece of thread1 must be pushed up the nostril from which the blood flows1 to act as a plug and pressure on the bleeding vessel4 ,when the discharge has entirely ceased1 the plug is to be pulled out by means of the thread4 ,to prevent a repetition of the hemorrhage1 the body should be sponged every morning with cold water1 and the child put under a course of steel wine1 have open-air exercise1 and1 if possible1 salt-water bathing4 ,for children1 a key suddenly dropped down the back between the skin and clothes1 will often immediately arrest a copious bleeding4 #bfjh4 ,,spitting ,,of ,,blood1 or hemorrhage from the lungs1 is generally known from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour1 and in less quantities than that1 which is always grumous and mixed with the half-digested food4 ,in either case1 rest should be immediately enjoined1 total abstinence from stimulants1 and a low1 poor diet1 accompanied with the horizontal position1 and bottles of boiling water to the feet4 ,at the same time the patient should suck through a quill1 every hour1 half a wine-glass of water in which #aj or #ae drops of the elixir of vitriol has been mixed1 and1 till further advice has been procured1 keep a towel wrung out of cold water on the chest or stomach1 according to the seat of the hemorrhage4 ,bites and ,stings4 #bfji4 ,,bites ,,and ,,stings may be divided into three kinds3--#a4 ,those of ,insects4 #b4 ,those of ,snakes4 #c4 ,those of ,dogs and other ,animals4 #bfaj4 #a4 ,the ,bites or ,stings of ,insects1 such as gnats1 bees1 wasps1 c41 need cause very little alarm1 and are1 generally speaking1 easily cured4 ,they are very serious1 however1 when they take place on some delicate part of the body1 such as near the eye1 or in the throat4 ,the treatment is very simple in most cases2 and consists in taking out the sting1 if it is left behind1 with a needle1 and applying to the part a liniment made of finely-scraped chalk and olive-oil1 mixed together to about the thickness of cream4 #bfaa4 ,bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is also of great use4 ,if the person feels faint1 he should lie quietly on his back1 and take a little brandy-and-water1 or sal-volatile and water4 ,when the inside of the throat is the part stung1 there is great danger of violent inflammation taking place4 ,in this case1 from eight to twelve leeches should be immediately put to the outside of the throat1 and when they drop off1 the part to which they had been applied should be well fomented with warm water4 ,the inside of the throat is to be constantly gargled with salt and water4 ,bits of ice are to be sucked4 ,rubbing the face and hands well over with plain olive-oil1 before going to bed1 will often keep gnats and musquitoes from biting during the night4 ,strong scent1 such as eau-de-,cologne1 will have the same effect4 #bfab4 #b4 ,bites of ,snakes4--,these are much more dangerous than the preceding1 and require more powerful remedies4 ,the bites of the different kinds of snakes do not all act alike1 but affect people in different ways4--,treatment of the part bitten4 ,the great thing is to prevent the poison getting into the blood2 and1 if possible1 to remove the whole of it at once from the body4 ,a pocket-handkerchief1 a piece of tape or cord1 or1 in fact1 of anything that is at hand1 should be tied tightly round the part of the body bitten2 if it be the leg or arm1 immediately above the bite1 and between it and the heart4 ,the bite should then be sucked several times by any one who is near4 ,there is no danger in this1 provided the person who does it has not got the skin taken off any part of his mouth4 ,what has been sucked into the mouth should be immediately spit out again4 ,but if those who are near have sufficient nerve for the operation1 and a suitable instrument1 they should cut out the central part bitten1 and then bathe the wound for some time with warm water1 to make it bleed freely4 ,the wound should afterwards be rubbed with a stick of lunar caustic1 or1 what is better1 a solution of this--#fj grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of water--should be dropped into it4 ,the band should be kept on the part during the whole of the time that these means are being adopted4 ,the wound should afterwards be covered with lint dipped in cold water4 ,the best plan1 however1 to be adopted1 if it can be managed1 is the following3--take a common wine-glass1 and1 holding it upside down1 put a lighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two4 ,this will take out the air4 ,then clap the glass suddenly over the bitten part1 and it will become attached1 and hold on to the flesh4 ,the glass being nearly empty1 the blood containing the poison will1 in consequence1 flow into it from the wound of its own accord4 ,this process should be repeated three or four times1 and the wound sucked1 or washed with warm water1 before each application of the glass4 ,as a matter of course1 when the glass is removed1 all the blood should be washed out of it before it is applied again4--,constitutional ,treatment4 ,there is mostly at first great depression of strength in these cases1 and it is therefore requisite to give some stimulant2 a glass of hot brandy-and-water1 or twenty drops of sal-volatile1 is the best that can be given4 ,when the strength has returned1 and if the patient has not already been sick1 a little mustard in hot water should be given1 to make him so4 ,if1 on the other hand1 as is often the case1 the vomiting is excessive1 a large mustard poultice should be placed over the stomach1 and a grain of solid opium swallowed in the form of a pill1 for the purpose of stopping it4 ,only one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person4 ,in all cases of bites from snakes1 send for a surgeon as quickly as possible1 and act according to the above directions until he arrives4 ,if he is within any reasonable distance1 content yourself by putting on the band1 sucking the wound1 applying the glass1 and1 if necessary1 giving a little brandy-and-water4 #bfac4 #c4 ,bites of ,dogs4--,for obvious reasons1 these kinds of bites are more frequently met with than those of snakes4 ,the treatment is the same as that for snake-bites1 more especially that of the bitten part4 ,the majority of writers on the subject are in favour of keeping the wound open as long as possible4 ,this may be done by putting a few beans on it1 and then by applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them4 ,injuries and ,accidents to ,bones4 #bfad4 ,dislocation of ,bones4--,when the end of a bone is pushed out of its natural position1 it is said to be dislocated4 ,this may be caused by violence1 disease1 or natural weakness of the parts about a joint4--,symptoms4 ,deformity about the joint1 with unnatural prominence at one part1 and depression at another4 ,the limb may be shorter or longer than usual1 and is stiff and unable to be moved1 differing in these last two respects from a broken limb1 which is mostly shorter1 never longer1 than usual1 and which is always more movable4--,treatment4 ,so much practical science and tact are requisite in order to bring a dislocated bone into its proper position again1 that we strongly advise the reader never to interfere in these cases2 unless1 indeed1 it is altogether impossible to obtain the services of a surgeon4 ,but because any one of us may very possibly be placed in that emergency1 we give a few rough rules for the reader's guidance4 ,in the first place make the joint1 from which the bone has been displaced1 perfectly steady1 either by fixing it to some firm object or else by holding it with the hands2 then pull the dislocated bone in a direction towards the place from which it has been thrust1 so that1 if it moves at all from its unnatural position1 it may have the best chance of returning to its proper place4 ,do not1 however1 pull or press against the parts too violently1 as you may1 perhaps1 by doing so1 rupture blood-vessels1 and produce most serious consequences4 ,when you do attempt to reduce a dislocated bone1 do it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place1 every hour making the operation more difficult4 ,when the patient is very strong1 he may be put into a warm bath until he feels faint1 or have sixty drops of antimonial wine given him every ten minutes until he feels sickish4 ,these two means are of great use in relaxing the muscles4 ,if the bone has been brought back again to its proper place1 keep it there by means of bandages2 and if there is much pain about the joint1 apply a cold lotion to it1 and keep it perfectly at rest4 ,the lotion should be1 a dessert-spoonful of ,goulard's extract1 and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 mixed in a pint of water4 ,leeches are sometimes necessary4 ,unless the local pain1 or general feverish symptoms1 are great1 the patient's diet should be the same as usual4 ,dislocations may be reduced a week1 or even a fortnight1 after they have taken place4 ,as1 therefore1 although the sooner a bone is reduced the better1 there is no very great emergency1 and as the most serious consequences may follow improper or too violent treatment1 it is always better for people in these cases to do too little than too much2 inasmuch as the good which has not yet may still be done1 whereas the evil that has been done cannot so easily be undone4 #bfae4 ,,fractures ,,of ,,bones4--,symptoms4 #a4 ,deformity of the part4 #b4 ,unnatural looseness4 #c4 ,a grating sound when the two ends of the broken bone are rubbed together4 #d4 ,loss of natural motion and power4 ,in some cases there is also shortening of the limb4--,fracture takes place from several causes1 as a fall1 a blow1 a squeeze1 and sometimes from the violent action of muscles4--,treatment4 ,in cases where a surgeon cannot be procured immediately after the accident1 the following general rules are offered for the reader's guidance3--,the broken limb should be placed and kept as nearly as possible in its natural position4 ,this is to be done by first pulling the two portions of the bone in opposite directions1 until the limb becomes as long as the opposite one1 and then by applying a splint1 and binding it to the part by means of a roller4 ,when there is no deformity1 the pulling is of course unnecessary4 ,if there is much swelling about the broken part1 a cold lotion is to be applied4 ,this lotion 7which we will call ,lotion ,no4 #a7 may be thus made3--,mix a dessert-spoonful of ,goulard's extract and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water4 ,when the leg or arm is broken1 always1 if possible1 get it to the same length and form as the opposite limb4 ,the broken part should be kept perfectly quiet4 ,when a broken limb is deformed1 and a particular muscle is on the stretch1 place the limb in such a position as will relax it4 ,this will in most cases cure the deformity4 ,brandy-and-water1 or sal-volatile and water1 are to be given when the patient is faint4 ,surgical aid should1 of course1 be procured as soon as possible4 #bfaf4 ,,joints1 ,,injuries ,,to4--,all kinds of injuries to joints1 of whatever description1 require particular attention1 in consequence of the violent inflammations which are so liable to take place in these parts of the body1 and which do so much mischief in a little time4 ,the joint injured should always be kept perfectly at rest2 and when it is very painful1 and the skin about it red1 swollen1 hot1 and shining1 at the same time that the patient has general feverish symptoms1 such as great thirst and headache--leeches1 and when they drop off1 warm poppy fomentations1 are to be applied2 the ,no4 #a pills above-mentioned are to be given 7two are a dose for a grown person7 with a black draught three hours afterwards4 ,give also two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture every four hours1 and keep the patient on low diet4 ,when the injury and swelling are not very great1 warm applications1 with rest1 low diet1 and a dose of aperient medicine1 will be sufficient4 ,when a joint has received a penetrating wound1 it will require the most powerful treatment1 and can only be properly attended to by a surgeon4 ,the patient's friends will have to use their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many other cases1 as to when leeches1 fever-mixture1 c41 are necessary4 ,a universal rule1 however1 without a single exception1 is always to rest a joint well after it has been injured in any way whatever1 to purge the patient1 and to keep him on low diet1 without beer1 unless he has been a very great drinker indeed1 in which case he may still be allowed to take a little2 for if the stimulant that a person has been accustomed to in excess be all taken away at once1 he is very likely to have an attack of delirium tremens4 ,the quantity given should not1 however1 be much--say a pint1 or1 at the most1 a pint and a half a day4 ,rubbing the joint with opodeldoc1 or the application of a blister to it1 is of great service in taking away the thickenings1 which often remain after all heat1 pain1 and redness have left an injured joint4 ,great care should be observed in not using a joint too quickly after it has been injured4 ,when the shoulder-joint is the one injured1 the arm should be bound tightly to the body by means of a linen or flannel roller1 and the elbow raised2 when the elbow1 it should be kept raised in the straight position1 on a pillow2 when the wrist1 it should be raised on the chest1 and suspended in a sling2 when the knee1 it should be kept in the straight position2 and1 lastly1 when the ankle1 it should be a little raised on a pillow4 #bfag4 ,,bruises1 ,,lacerations1 ,,and ,,cuts4--,wherever the bruise may be1 or however swollen or discoloured the skin may become1 two or three applications of the extract of lead1 kept to the part by means of lint1 will1 in an hour or little more1 remove all pain1 swelling1 and tenderness4 ,simple or clean cuts only require the edges of the wound to be placed in their exact situation1 drawn close together1 and secured there by one or two slips of adhesive plaster4 ,when the wound1 however1 is jagged1 or the flesh or cuticle lacerated1 the parts are to be laid as smooth and regular as possible1 and a piece of lint1 wetted in the extract of lead1 laid upon the wound1 and a piece of greased lint placed above it to prevent the dressing sticking2 the whole covered over to protect from injury1 and the part dressed in the same manner once a day till the cure is effected4 #bfah4 ,,bruises ,,and ,,their ,,treatment4--,the best application for a bruise1 be it large or small1 is moist warmth2 therefore1 a warm bread-and-water poultice in hot moist flannels should be put on1 as they supple the skin4 ,if the bruise be very severe1 and in the neighbourhood of a joint1 it will be well to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruised part1 and afterwards a poultice4 ,but leeches should not be put on young children4 ,if the bruised part be the knee or the ankle1 walking should not be attempted till it can be performed without pain4 ,inattention to this point often lays the foundation for serious mischief in these joints1 especially in the case of scrofulous persons4 ,in all conditions of bruises occurring in children1 whether swellings or abrasions1 no remedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure extract of lead applied to the part4 ,burns and ,scalds4 #bfai4 ,,burns ,,and ,,scalds being essentially the same in all particulars1 and differing only in the manner of their production1 may be spoken of together4 ,as a general rule1 scalds are less severe than burns1 because the heat of water1 by which scalds are mostly produced1 is not1 even when it is boiling1 so intense as that of flame2 oil1 however1 and other liquids1 whose boiling-point is high1 produce scalds of a very severe nature4 ,burns and scalds have been divided into three classes4 ,the first class comprises those where the burn is altogether superficial1 and merely reddens the skin2 the second1 where the injury is greater1 and we get little bladders containing a fluid 7called serum7 dotted over the affected part2 in the third class we get1 in the case of burns1 a charring1 and in that of scalds1 a softening or pulpiness1 perhaps a complete and immediate separation of the part4 ,this may occur at once1 or in the course of a little time4 ,the pain from the second kind of burns is much more severe than that in the other two1 although the danger1 as a general rule1 is less than it is in the third class4 ,these injuries are much more dangerous when they take place on the trunk than when they happen on the arms or legs4 ,the danger arises more from the extent of surface that is burnt than from the depth to which the burn goes4 ,this rule1 of course1 has certain exceptions2 because a small burn on the chest or belly penetrating deeply is more dangerous than a more extensive but superficial one on the arm or leg4 ,when a person's clothes are in flames1 the best way of extinguishing them is to wind a rug1 or some thick material1 tightly round the whole of the body4 #bfbj4 ,treatment of the ,first ,class of ,burns and ,scalds4--,of the part affected4--,cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour1 or cotton-wool with flour dredged well into it4 ,the great thing is to keep the affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air4 ,the part will shortly get well1 and the skin may or may not peel off4--,constitutional ,treatment4 ,if the burn or scald is not extensive1 and there is no prostration of strength1 this is very simple1 and consists in simply giving a little aperient medicine--pills 7,no4 #b71 as follows3--,mix #e grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth1 and make into two pills--the dose for a full-grown person4 ,three hours after the pills give a black draught4 ,if there are general symptoms of fever1 such as hot skin1 thirst1 headache1 c4 c41 two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to be given every four hours4 ,the fever-mixture1 we remind our readers1 is made thus3-,mix a drachm of powdered nitro1 #b drachms of carbonate of potash1 #b teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine1 and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro1 in half a pint of water4 #bfba4 ,second ,class4 ,local ,treatment4--,as the symptoms of these kinds of burns are more severe than those of the first class1 so the remedies appropriate to them are more powerful4 ,having1 as carefully as possible1 removed the clothes from the burnt surface1 and taking care not to break the bladders1 spread the following liniment 7,no4 #a7 on a piece of linen or lint--not the fluffy side--and apply it to the part3 the liniment should be equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil1 well mixed4 ,if the burn is on the trunk of the body1 it is better to use a warm linseed-meal poultice4 ,after a few days dress the wound with ,turner's cerate4 ,if the burn is at the bend of the elbow1 place the arm in the straight position2 for if it is bent1 the skin1 when healed1 will be contracted1 and the arm1 in all probability1 always remain in the same un natural position4 ,this1 indeed1 applies to all parts of the body2 therefore1 always place the part affected in the most stretched position possible4--,constitutional ,treatment4 ,the same kind of treatment is to be used as for the first class1 only it must be more powerful4 ,stimulants are move often necessary1 but must be given with great caution4 ,if1 as is often the case1 there is great irritability and restlessness1 a dose of opium 7paregoric1 in doses of from sixty to a hundred drops1 according to age1 is best7 is of great service4 ,the feverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever mixture4 ,a drink made of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a little lemon-juice1 in a quart of warm water1 allowed to cool1 is a very nice one in these cases4 ,the diet throughout should not be too low1 especially if there is much discharge from the wound4 ,after a few days it is often necessary to give wine1 ammonia1 and strong beef-tea4 ,these should be had recourse to when the tongue gets dry and dark1 and the pulse weak and frequent4 ,if there should be1 after the lapse of a week or two1 pain over one particular part of the belly1 a blister should be put on it1 and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder1 and ,dover's powder 7two grains of the former and five of the latter7 given three times a day4 ,affections of the head and chest also frequently occur as a consequence of these kinds of burns1 but no one who is not a medical man can treat them4 #bfbb4 ,third ,class4--,these are so severe as to make it impossible for a non-professional person to be of much service in attending to them4 ,when they occur1 a surgeon should always be sent for4 ,until he arrives1 however1 the following treatment should be adopted3--,place the patient full-length on his back1 and keep him warm4 ,apply fomentations of flannels wrung out of boiling water and sprinkled with spirits of turpentine to the part1 and give wine and sal-volatile in such quantities as the prostration of strength requires2 always bearing in mind the great fact that you have to steer between two quicksands--death from present prostration and death from future excitement1 which will always be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants given4 ,give1 therefore1 only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keep life in the body4 #bfbc4 ,,concussion ,,of ,,brain--,,stunning4--,this may be caused by a blow or a fall4--,symptoms4 ,cold skin2 weak pulse2 almost total insensibility2 slow1 weak breathing2 pupil of eye sometimes bigger1 sometimes smaller1 than natural2 inability to move2 unwillingness to answer when spoken to4 ,these symptoms come on directly after the accident4--,treatment4 ,place the patient quietly on a warm bed1 send for a surgeon1 and do nothing else for the first four or six hours4 ,after this time the skin will become hot1 the pulse full1 and the patient feverish altogether4 ,if the surgeon has not arrived by the time these symptoms have set in1 shave the patient's head1 and apply the following lotion 7,no4 #b73 ,mix half an ounce of sal-ammoniac1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 and the same quantity of gin or whisky1 in half a pint of water4 ,then give this pill 7,no4 #a72 ,mix five grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb1 and make into two pills4 ,give a black draught three hours after the pill1 and two tablespoonfuls of the above-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours4 ,keep on low diet4 ,leeches are sometimes to be applied to the head4 ,these cases are often followed by violent inflammation of the brain4 ,they can1 therefore1 only be attended to properly throughout by a surgeon4 ,the great thing for people to do in these cases is--nothing2 contenting themselves with putting the patient to bed1 and waiting the arrival of a surgeon4 #bfbd4 ,,the ,,cholera ,,and ,,autumnal ,,complaints4--,to oppose cholera1 there seems no surer or better means than cleanliness1 sobriety1 and judicious ventilation4 ,where there is dirt1 that is the place for cholera2 where windows and doors are kept most jealously shut1 there cholera will find easiest entrance2 and people who indulge in intemperate diet during the hot days of autumn are actually courting death4 ,to repeat it1 cleanliness1 sobriety1 and free ventilation almost always defy the pestilence2 but1 in case of attack1 immediate recourse should be had to a physician4 ,the faculty say that a large number of lives have been lost1 in many seasons1 solely from delay in seeking medical assistance4 ,they even assert that1 taken early1 the cholera is by no means a fatal disorder4 ,the copious use of salt is recommended on very excellent authority4 ,other autumnal complaints there are1 of which diarrhoea is the worst example4 ,they come on with pain1 flatulence1 sickness1 with or without vomiting1 followed by loss of appetite1 general lassitude1 and weakness4 ,if attended to at the first appearance1 they may soon be conquered2 for which purpose it is necessary to assist nature in throwing off the contents of the bowels1 which may be one by means of the following prescription3--,take of calomel #c grains1 rhubarb #h grains2 mix and take it in a little honey or jelly1 and repeat the dose three times1 at the intervals of four or five hours4 ,the next purpose to be answered is the defence of the lining membrane of the intestines from their acrid contents1 which will be best effected by drinking copiously of linseed tea1 or of a drink made by pouring boiling water on quince-seeds1 which are of a very mucilaginous nature2 or1 what is still better1 full draughts of whey4 ,if the complaint continue after these means have been employed1 some astringent or binding medicine will be required1 as the subjoined3--,take of prepared chalk #b drachms1 cinnamon-water #g oz41 syrup of poppies #a oz42 mix1 and take #c tablespoonfuls every four hours4 ,should this fail to complete the cure1 #a_/b oz4 of tincture of catechu1 or of kino1 may be added to it1 and then it will seldom fail2 or a teaspoonful of the tincture of kino alone1 with a little water1 every three hours1 till the diarrhoea is checked4 ,while any symptoms of derangement are present1 particular attention must be paid to the diet1 which should be of a soothing1 lubricating1 and light nature1 as instanced in veal or chicken broth1 which should contain but little salt4 ,rice1 batter1 and bread puddings will be generally relished1 and be eaten with advantage2 but the stomach is too much impaired to digest food of a more solid nature4 ,indeed1 we should give that organ1 together with the bowels1 as little trouble as possible1 while they are so incapable of acting in their accustomed manner4 ,much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd practice of taking tincture of rhubarb1 which is almost certain of aggravating that species of disorder of which we have now treated2 for it is a spirit as strong as brandy1 and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface which is rendered tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile4 ,but our last advice is1 upon the first appearance of such symptoms as are above detailed1 have immediate recourse to a doctor1 where possible4 #bfbe4 ,,to ,,cure ,a ,,cold4--,put a large teacupful of linseed1 with #a_/d lb4 of sun raisins and #b oz4 of stick liquorice1 into #b quarts of soft water1 and let it simmer over a slow fire till reduced to one quart2 add to it #a_/d lb4 of pounded sugar-candy1 a tablespoonful of old rum1 and a tablespoonful of the best white-wine vinegar1 or lemon-juice4 ,the rum and vinegar should be added as the decoction is taken2 for1 if they are put in at first1 the whole soon becomes flat and less efficacious4 ,the dose is half a pint1 made warm1 on going to bed2 and a little may be taken whenever the cough is troublesome4 ,the worst cold is generally cured by this remedy in two or three days2 and1 if taken in time1 is considered infallible4 #bfbf4 ,,cold ,,on ,,the ,,chest4--,a flannel dipped in boiling water1 and sprinkled with turpentine1 laid on the chest as quickly as possible1 will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness4 #bfbg4 ,,substances ,,in ,,the ,,eye4--,to remove fine particles of gravel1 lime1 c41 the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them4 ,be particular not to worry the eye1 under the impression that the substance is still there1 which the enlargement of some of the minute vessels makes the patient believe is actually the case4 #bfbh4 ,,sore ,,eyes4--,incorporate thoroughly1 in a glass mortar or vessel1 one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti ointment4 ,use the mixture night and morning1 by placing a piece of the size of a pea in the corner of the eye affected1 only to be used in cases of chronic or long-standing inflammation of the organ1 or its lids4 #bfbi4 ,,lime ,,in ,,the ,,eye4--,bathe the eye with a little weak vinegar-and-water1 and carefully remove any little piece of lime which may be seen1 with a feather4 ,if any lime has got entangled in the eyelashes1 carefully clear it away with a bit of soft linen soaked in vinegar-and-water4 ,violent inflammation is sure to follow2 a smart purge must be therefore administered1 and in all probability a blister must be applied on the temple1 behind the ear1 or nape of the neck4 #bfcj4 ,,stye ,,in ,,the ,,eye4--,styes are little abscesses which form between the roots of the eyelashes1 and are rarely larger than a small pea4 ,the best way to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water1 or in warm poppy-water1 if very painful4 ,when they have burst1 use an ointment composed of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti1 well rubbed together1 and smear along the edge of the eyelid4 ,give a grain or two of calomel with #e or #h grains of rhubarb1 according to the age of the child1 twice a week4 ,the old-fashioned and apparently absurd practice of rubbing the stye with a ring1 is as good and speedy a cure as that by any process of medicinal application2 though the number of times it is rubbed1 or the quality of the ring and direction of the strokes1 has nothing to do with its success4 ,the pressure and the friction excite the vessels of the part1 and cause an absorption of the effused matter under the eyelash4 ,the edge of the nail will answer as well as a ring4 #bfca4 ,,inflammation ,,of ,,the ,,eyelids4--,the following ointment has been found very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of the eyelids3--,take of prepared calomel1 #a scruple2 spermaceti ointment1 #a_/b oz4 ,mix them well together in a glass mortar2 apply a small quantity to each corner of the eye every night and morning1 and also to the edges of the lids1 if they are affected4 ,if this should not eventually remove the inflammation1 elder-flower water may be applied three or four times a day1 by means of an eye-cup4 ,the bowels should be kept in a laxative state1 by taking occasionally a quarter of an ounce of the ,cheltenham or ,epsom salts4 #bfcb4 ,,fasting4--,it is said by many able physicians that fasting is a means of removing incipient disease1 and of restoring the body to its customary healthy sensations4 ,howard1 the celebrated philanthropist 7says a writer71 used to fast one day in every week4 ,napoleon1 when he felt his system unstrung1 suspended his wonted repast1 and took his exercise on horseback4 ,fits4 #bfcc4 ,fits come on so suddenly1 often without even the slightest warning1 and may prove fatal so quickly1 that all people should be acquainted at least with their leading symptoms and treatment1 as a few moments1 more or less1 will often decide the question between life and death4 ,the treatment1 in very many cases at least1 to be of the slightest use1 should be immediate1 as a person in a fit 7of apoplexy for instance7 may die while a surgeon is being fetched from only the next street4 ,we shall give1 as far as the fact of our editing a work for non-professional readers will permit1 the peculiar and distinctive symptoms of all kind of fits1 and the immediate treatment to be adopted in each case4 #bfcd4 ,,apoplexy4--,these fits may be divided into two kinds--the strong and the weak4 #bfce4 #a4 ,the strong kind4--,these cases mostly occur in stout1 strong1 short-necked1 bloated-faced people1 who are in the habit of living well4--,symptoms4 ,the patient may or may not have had headache1 sparks before his eyes1 with confusion of ideas and giddiness1 for a day or two before the attack4 ,when it takes place1 he falls down insensible2 the body becomes paralyzed1 generally more so on one side than the other2 the face and head are hot1 and the blood-vessels about them swollen2 the pupils of the eyes are larger than natural1 and the eyes themselves are fixed2 the mouth is mostly drawn down at one corner2 the breathing is like loud snoring2 the pulse full and hard4--,treatment4 ,place the patient immediately in bed1 with his head well raised2 take off everything that he has round his neck1 and bleed freely and at once from the arm4 ,if you have not got a lancet1 use a penknife or anything suitable that may be at hand4 ,apply warm mustard poultices to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs2 put two drops of castor oil1 mixed up with eight grains of calomel1 on the top of the tongue1 as far back as possible2 a most important part of the treatment being to open the bowels as quickly and freely as possible4 ,the patient cannot swallow2 but these medicines1 especially the oil1 will be absorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntary action4 ,if possible1 throw up a warm turpentine clyster 7two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel71 or1 if this cannot be obtained1 one composed of about a quart of warm salt-and-water and soap4 ,cut off the hair1 and apply rags dipped in weak vinegar-and-water1 or weak gin-and-water1 or even simple cold water1 to the head4 ,if the blood-vessels about the head and neck are much swollen1 put from eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite to the paralyzed side of the body4 ,always send for a surgeon immediately1 and act according to the above rules1 doing more or less1 according to the means at hand1 and the length of time that must necessarily elapse until he arrives4 ,a pint1 or even a quart of blood in a very strong person1 may be taken away4 ,when the patient is able to swallow1 give him the ,no4 #a pills1 and the ,no4 #a mixture directly4 ,the ,no4 #a pills are made as follows3--,mix #e grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb3 make into two pills1 the dose for a full-grown person4 ,for the ,no4 #a mixture1 dissolve on ounce of ,epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea3 take a quarter of the mixture as a dose ,repeat these remedies if the bowels are not well opened4 ,keep the patient's head well raised1 and cool as above4 ,give very low diet indeed3 gruel1 arrowroot1 and the like4 ,when a person is recovering1 he should have blisters applied to the nape of the neck1 his bowels should be kept well open1 light diet given1 and fatigue1 worry1 and excess of all kinds avoided4 #bfcf4 #b4 ,the weak kind4--,symptoms4 ,these attacks are more frequently preceded by warning symptoms than the first kind4 ,the face is pale1 the pulse weak1 and the body1 especially the hands and legs1 cold4 ,after a little while1 these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first class in a mild degree4--,treatment4 ,at first1 if the pulse is very feeble indeed1 a little brandy-and-water or sal-volatile must be given4 ,mustard poultices are to be put1 as before1 to the soles of the foot and the insides of the thighs and legs4 ,warm bricks1 or bottles filled with warm water1 are also to be placed under the armpits4 ,when the strength has returned1 the body become warmer1 and the pulse fuller and harder1 the head should be shaved1 and wet rags applied to it1 as before described4 ,leeches should be put1 as before1 to the temple opposite the side paralyzed2 and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quickly as possible4 ,bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases1 but a non-professional person should never have recourse to it4 ,blisters may be applied to the nape of the neck at once4 ,the diet in those cases should not be so low as in the former--indeed1 it is often necessary1 in a day or so after one of these attacks1 to give wine1 strong beef-tea1 c41 according to the condition of the patient's strength4 #bfcg4 ,distinctions between ,apoplexy and ,epilepsy4--#a4 ,apoplexy mostly happens in people over thirty1 whereas epilepsy generally occurs under that ago2 at any rate for the first time4 ,a person who has epileptic fits over thirty1 has generally suffered from them for some years4 #b4 ,again1 in apoplexy1 the body is paralyzed2 and1 therefore1 has not the convulsions which take place in epilepsy4 #c4 ,the peculiar snoring will also distinguish apoplexy from epilepsy4 #bfch4 ,distinctions between ,apoplexy and ,drunkeness4--#a4 ,the known habits of the person4 #b4 ,the fact of a person who was perfectly sober and sensible a little time before1 being found in a state of insensibility4 #c4 ,the absence1 in apoplexy1 of the smell of drink on applying the nose to the mouth4 #d4 ,a person in a fit of apoplexy cannot be roused at all2 in drunkenness he mostly can1 to a certain extent4 #bfci4 ,distinction between ,apoplexy and ,hysteria4--,hysterics mostly happen in young1 nervous1 unmarried women2 and are attended with convulsions1 sobbing1 laughter1 throwing about of the body1 c4 c4 #bfdj4 ,distinction between ,apoplexy and ,poisoning by ,opium4--,it is exceedingly difficult to distinguish between these two cases4 ,in poisoning by opium1 however1 we find the particular smell of the drug in the patient's breath4 ,we should also1 in forming our opinion1 take into consideration the person's previous conduct--whether he has been low and desponding for some time before1 or has ever talked about committing suicide4 #bfda4 ,,epilepsy4--,falling ,sickness4--,those fits mostly happen1 at any rate for the first time1 to young people1 and are more common in boys than girls4 ,they are produced by numerous causes4--,symptoms4 ,the fit may be preceded by pains in the head1 palpitations1 c4 c42 but it mostly happens that the person falls down insensible suddenly1 and without any warning whatever4 ,the eyes are distorted1 so that only their whites can be seen2 there is mostly foaming from the mouth2 the fingers are clinched2 and the body1 especially on one side1 is much agitated2 the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth4 ,when the fit goes off1 the patient feels drowsy and faint1 and often sleeps soundly for some time4--,treatment4 ,during the fit1 keep the patient flat on his back1 with his head slightly raised1 and prevent him from doing any harm to himself2 dash cold water into his face1 and apply smelling-salts to his nose2 loosen his shirt collar1 c42 hold a piece of wood about as thick as a finger--the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do as well--between the two rows of teeth1 at the back part of the mouth4 ,this will prevent the tongue from being injured4 ,a teaspoonful of common salt thrust into the patient's mouth1 during the fit1 is of much service4 ,the after-treatment of these fits is various1 and depends entirely upon their causes4 ,a good general rule1 however1 is always to keep the bowels well open1 and the patient quiet1 and free from fatigue1 worry1 and excess of all kinds4 #bfdb4 ,fainting ,fits are sometimes very dangerous1 and at others perfectly harmless2 the question of danger depending altogether upon the causes which have produced them1 and which are exceedingly various4 ,for instance1 fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serious symptom indeed2 whereas1 that arising from some slight cause1 such as the sight of blood1 c41 need cause no alarm whatever4 ,the symptoms of simple fainting are so well known that it would be quite superfluous to enumerate them here4 ,the treatment consists in laying the patient at full length upon his back1 with his head upon a level with the rest of his body1 loosening everything about the neck1 dashing cold water into the face1 and sprinkling vinegar and water about the mouth2 applying smelling-salts to the nose2 and1 when the patient is able to swallow1 in giving a little warm brandy-and-water1 or about #bj drops of sal-volatile in water4 #bfdc4 ,hysterics4--,these fits take place1 for the most part1 in young1 nervous1 unmarried women4 ,they happen much less often in married women2 and even 7in some rare cases indeed7 in men4 ,young women1 who are subject to these fits1 are apt to think that they are suffering from all the ills that flesh is heir to2 and the false symptoms of disease which they show are so like the true ones1 that it is often exceedingly difficult to detect the difference4 ,the fits themselves are mostly preceded by great depression of spirits1 shedding of tears1 sickness1 palpitation of the heart1 c4 ,a pain1 as if a nail were being driven in1 is also often felt at one particular part of the head4 ,in almost all cases1 when a fit is coming on1 pain is felt on the left side4 ,this pain rises gradually until it reaches the throat1 and then gives the patient a sensation as if she had a pellet there1 which prevents her from breathing properly1 and1 in fact1 seems to threaten actual suffocation4 ,the patient now generally becomes insensible1 and faints2 the body is thrown about in all directions1 froth issues from the mouth1 incoherent expressions are uttered1 and fits of laughter1 crying1 or screaming1 take place4 ,when the fit is going off1 the patient mostly cries bitterly1 sometimes knowing all1 and at others nothing1 of what has taken place1 and feeling general soreness all over the body4 ,treatment during the fit4 ,place the body in the same position as for simple fainting1 and treat1 in other respects1 as directed in the article on ,epilepsy4 ,always well loosen the patient's stays2 and1 when she is recovering1 and able to swallow1 give #bj drops of sal volatile in a little water4 ,the after-treatment of these cases is very various4 ,if the patient is of a strong constitution1 she should live on plain diet1 take plenty of exercise1 and take occasional doses of castor oil1 or an aperient mixture1 such as that described as ,no4 #a1 in previous numbers4 ,if1 as is mostly the case1 the patient is weak and delicate1 she will require a different mode of treatment altogether4 ,good nourishing diet1 gentle exercise1 cold baths1 occasionally a dose of ,no4 #c myrrh and aloes pills at night1 and a dose of compound iron pills twice a day4 ,as to the myrrh and aloes pills 7,no4 #c71 #aj grains made into two pills are a dose for a full-grown person4 ,of the compound iron pills 7,no4 #d71 the dose for a full grown person is also #aj grains1 made into two pills4 ,in every case1 amusing the mind1 and avoiding all causes of over-excitement1 are of great service in bringing about a permanent cure4 #bfdd4 ,,liver ,,complaint ,,and ,,spasms4--,a very obliging correspondent recommends the following1 from personal experience3--,take #d oz4 of dried dandelion root1 #a oz4 of the best ginger1 #a_/d oz4 of ,columba root2 braise and boil all together in #c pints of water till it is reduced to a quart3 strain1 and take a wine-glassful every four hours4 ,our correspondent says it is a safe and simple medicine for both liver complaint and spasms4 #bfde4 ,,lumbago4--,a new and successful mode of treating lumbago1 advocated by ,dr4 ,day1 is a form of counter-irritation1 said to have been introduced into this country by the late ,sir ,anthony ,carlisle1 and which consists in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button1 gently heated in a spirit-lamp1 to the skin4 ,dr4 ,corrigan published1 about three years ago1 an account of some cases very successfully treated by nearly similar means4 ,dr4 ,corrigan's plan was1 however1 to touch the surface of the part affected1 at intervals of half an inch1 as lightly and rapidly as possible4 ,dr4 ,day has found greater advantages to result from drawing the flat surface of the heated button lightly over the affected part1 so as to act on a greater extent of surface4 ,the doctor speaks so enthusiastically of the benefit to be derived from this practice1 that it is evidently highly deserving attention4 #bfdf4 ,,palpitation ,,of ,,the ,,heart4--,where palpitation occurs as symptomatic of indigestion1 the treatment must be directed to remedy that disorder2 when it is consequent on a plethoric state1 purgatives will be effectual4 ,in this case the patient should abstain from every kind of diet likely to produce a plethoric condition of body4 ,animal food and fermented liquor must be particularly avoided4 ,too much indulgence in sleep will also prove injurious4 ,when the attacks arise from nervous irritability1 the excitement must be allayed by change of air and a tonic diet4 ,should the palpitation originate from organic derangement1 it must be1 of course1 beyond domestic management4 ,luxurious living1 indolence1 and tight-lacing often produce this affection3 such cases are to be conquered with a little resolution4 #bfdg4 ,poisons shall be the next subject for remark2 and we anticipate more detailed instructions for the treatment of persons poisoned1 by giving a simple ,,list ,,of ,,the ,,principal ,,poisons1 with their ,,antidotes ,,or ,,remedies4 ,oil of ,vitriol 444444444444444 ,aquafortis 4444444444444444444 ,magnesia1 ,chalk1 ,soap-and-,water4 ,spirit of ,salt 444444444444444_/ ,emetic ,tartar44444444444444444 ,oily ,drinks1 ,solution of ,oak-bark4 ,salt of ,lemons1 or444444444444 ,chalk1 ,whiting1 ,lime or ,magnesia and ,acid of ,sugar44444444444444444 ,water4 ,sometimes an ,emetic ,draught4 ,pump on back1 ,smelling-,salts to nose1 ,prussic ,acid4444444444444444444 ,artificial ,breathing1 ,chloride of ,lime to nose4 ,pearlash 4444444444444444444444 ,soap-,lees4444444444444444444444 ,smelling-,salts44444444444444444 ,nitre44444444444444444444444444 ,lemon-,juice and ,vinegar-and-,water ,hartshorn4444444444444444444444 _/ ,sal-,volatile4444444444444444444_/ ,arsenic444444444444444444444444 ,fly-,powder1 or44444444444444444 ,emetics1 ,lime-,water1 ,soap-and-,water1 ,white ,arsenic444444444444444444 ,sugar and ,water1 ,oily ,drinks4 ,kings ,yellow1 or444444444444444 _/ ,yellow ,arsenic44444444444444444_/ ,mercury444444444444444444444444 ,corrosive ,sublimate444444444444 ,whites of ,eggs1 ,soap-and-,water4 ,calomel444444444444444444444444_/ ,opium44444444444444444444444444 ,emetic ,draught1 ,vinegar-and-,water1 ,laudanum44444444444444444444444 dashing ,cold ,water on chest and face1 walking up and down two or three hours4 ,lead444444444444444444444444444 ,white ,lead444444444444444444444 ,epsom ,salts1 ,castor ,oil1 ,emetics4 ,sugar of ,lead444444444444444444_/ ,goulard's ,extract4444444444444_/ ,copper ,blue-stone 44444444444444444444 ,whites of ,eggs1 ,sugar-and-,water1 ,verdigris4444444444444444444444 ,castor ,oil1 ,gruel4 ,zinc 44444444444444444444444444 ,lime-,water1 ,chalk-and-,water1 ,soap-and-,water4 ,iron 44444444444444444444444444 ,magnesia1 ,warm ,water4 ,henbane444444444444444444444444 ,hemlock444444444444444444444444 ,emetics and ,castor ,oil2 ,nightshade444444444444444444444 ,brandy-and-,water1 if necessary4 ,foxglove44444444444444444444444_/ ,poisonous ,food44444444444444444 ,emetics and ,castor ,oil4 #bfdh4 ,the symptoms of poisoning may be known for the most part from those of some diseases1 which they are very like1 from the fact of their coming on immediately after eating or drinking something2 whereas those of disease come on1 in most cases at least1 by degrees1 and with warnings4 ,in most cases where poison is known1 or suspected1 to have been taken1 the first thing to be done is to empty the stomach1 well and immediately1 by means of mustard mixed in warm water1 or plain warm salt-and-water1 or1 better1 this draught1 which we call ,no4 #a3--,twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water4 ,this draught to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not ensue4 ,the back part of the throat should be well tickled with a feather1 or two of the fingers thrust down it1 to induce vomiting4 ,the cases where vomiting must not be used are those where the skin has been taken off1 and the parts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken1 and where the action of vomiting would increase the evil4 ,full instructions are given in the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or are not to be given4 ,the best and safest way of emptying the stomach is by means of the stomach-pump1 as in certain cases the action of vomiting is likely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congested condition of the blood-vessels of the head1 which often takes place4 ,in the hands1 however1 of any one else than a surgeon1 it would be not only useless1 but harmful1 as a great deal of dexterity1 caution1 and experience are required to use it properly4 ,after having made these brief introductory remarks1 we shall now proceed to particulars4 #bfdi4 ,sulphuric ,acid1 or ,oil of ,vitriol 7a clear1 colourless liquid1 of an oily appearance74--,symptoms in those who have swallowed it4 ,when much is taken1 these come on immediately4 ,there is great burning pain1 extending from the mouth to the stomach2 vomiting of a liquid of a dark coffee-colour1 often mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood2 the skin inside the mouth is taken off2 and the exposed surface is at first white1 and after a time becomes brownish4 ,there are sometimes spots of a brown colour round the lips and on the neck1 caused by drops of the acid falling on these parts4 ,there is great difficulty of breathing1 owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth4 ,after a time there is much depression of strength1 with a quick1 weak pulse1 and cold1 clammy skin4 ,the face is pale1 and has a very anxious look4 ,when the acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water1 the same kind of symptoms occur1 only in a milder degree4--,treatment4 ,give a mixture of magnesia in milk-and-water1 or1 if this cannot be obtained1 of finely powdered chalk1 or whiting1 or even of the plaster torn down from the walls or ceiling1 in milk-and-water4 ,the mixture should be nearly as thick as cream1 and plenty of it given4 ,as well as this1 simple gruel1 milk1 or thick flour-and-water1 are very useful1 and should be given in large quantities4 ,violent inflammation of the parts touched by the acid is most likely to take place in the coarse of a little time1 and can only be properly attended to by a surgeon2 but if one cannot be obtained1 leeches1 the fever-mixtures 7the recipe for which appears repeatedly in previous paragraphs71 thick drinks1 such as barley-water1 gruel1 arrowroot1 c41 must be had recourse to1 according to the symptoms of each particular case and the means at hand4 ,the inflamed condition of the back part of the mouth requires particular attention4 ,when the breathing is very laboured and difficult in consequence1 from fifteen to twenty leeches are to be immediately applied to the outside of the throat1 and when they drop off1 warm poppy fomentations constantly kept to the part4 ,when the pain over the stomach is very great1 the same local treatment is necessary2 but if it is only slight1 a good mustard poultice will be sufficient without the leeches4 ,in all these cases1 two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture should be given every four hours1 and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten for some days4 #bfej4 ,nitric ,acid1 commonly known as ,aqua ,fortis1 or ,red ,spirit of ,nitre 7a straw-coloured fluid1 of the consistence of water1 and which gives off dense white fumes on exposure to the air74--,symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it4 ,much the same as in the case of sulphuric acid4 ,in this case1 however1 the surface touched by the acid becomes yellowish4 ,the tongue is mostly much swollen4--,treatment4 ,the same as for sulphuric acid4 #bfea4 ,muriatic ,acid1 ,spirit of ,salt 7a thin yellow fluid1 emitting dense white fumes on exposure to the air74--,this is not often taken as a poison4 ,the symptoms and treatment are much the same as those of nitric acid4 ,n4,b4--,in no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics ever be given4 #bfeb4 ,oxalic ,acid1 commonly called ,salt of ,lemons4--,this poison may be taken by mistake for ,epsom salts1 which it is a good deal like4 ,it may be distinguished from them by its very acid taste and its shape1 which is that of needle-formed crystals1 each of which1 if put into a drop of ink1 will turn it to a reddish brown1 whereas ,epsom salts will not change its colour at all4 ,when a large dose of this poison has been taken1 death takes place very quickly indeed4--,symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it4 ,a hot1 burning1 acid taste is felt in the act of swallowing1 and vomiting of a greenish-brown fluid is produced1 sooner or later1 according to the quantity and strength of the poison taken4 ,there is great tenderness felt over the stomach1 followed by clammy perspirations and convulsions2 the legs are often drawn up1 and there is generally stupor1 from which the patient1 however1 can easily be roused1 and always great prostration of strength4 ,the pulse is small and weak1 and the breathing faint4--,treatment4 ,chalk or magnesia1 made into a cream with water1 should be given in large quantities1 and afterwards the emetic draught above prescribed1 or some mustard-and-water1 if the draught cannot be got4 ,the back part of the throat to be tickled with a feather1 to induce vomiting4 ,arrowroot1 gruel1 and the like drinks1 are to be taken4 ,when the prostration of strength is very great and the body cold1 warmth is to be applied to it1 and a little brandy-and-water1 or sal-volatile and water1 given4 #bfec4 ,prussic ,acid 7a thin1 transparent1 and colourless liquid1 with a peculiar smell1 which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds74--,symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it4 ,these come on immediately after the poison has been taken1 and may be produced by merely smelling it4 ,the patient becomes perfectly insensible1 and falls down in convulsions--his eyes are fixed and staring1 the pupils being bigger than natural1 the skin is cold and clammy1 the pulse scarcely perceptible1 and the breathing slow and gasping4--,treatment4 ,very little can be done in these cases1 as death takes place so quickly after the poison has been swallowed1 when it takes place at all4 ,the best treatment--which should always be adopted in all cases1 even though the patient appears quite dead-is to dash quantities of cold water on the back1 from the top of the neck downwards4 ,placing the patient under a pump1 and pumping on him1 is the best way of doing this4 ,smelling-salts are also to be applied to the nose1 and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment4 #bfed4 ,,alkalis3 ,potash1 ,soda1 and ,ammonia1 or common ,smelling-,salts1 with their principal preparations--,pearlash1 ,soap ,lees1 ,liquor ,potassae1 ,nitre1 ,sal ,prunella1 ,hartshorn1 and ,sal--,volatile4--,alkalis are seldom taken or given with the view of destroying life4 ,they may1 however1 be swallowed by mistake4--,symptoms produced in those who have swallowed them4 ,there is at first a burning1 acrid taste in1 and a sensation of tightness round1 the throat1 like that of strangling2 the skin touched is destroyed2 retching mostly followed by actual vomiting1 then sets in2 the vomited matters often containing blood of a dark brown colour1 with little shreds of flesh here and there1 and always changing vegetable blue colours green4 ,there is now great tenderness over the whole of the belly4 ,after a little while1 great weakness1 with cold1 clammy sweats1 a quick weak pulse1 and purging of bloody matters1 takes place4 ,the brain1 too1 mostly becomes affected4--,treatment4 ,give two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon-juice in a glassful of water every few minutes until the burning sensation is relieved4 ,any kind of oil or milk may also be given1 and will form soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach4 ,barley-water1 gruel1 arrowroot1 linseed-tea1 c41 are also very useful1 and should be taken constantly1 and in large quantities4 ,if inflammation should take place1 it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppy fomentations to the part where the pain is most felt1 and giving two tablespoonfuls of the fever mixture every four hours4 ,the diet in all these cases should only consist of arrowroot or gruel for the first few days1 and then of weak broth or beef-tea for some time after4 #bfee4 ,when very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way been inhaled1 there is great difficulty of breathing1 and alarming pain in the mouth and nostrils4 ,in this case let the patient inhale the steam of warm vinegar1 and treat the feverish symptoms as before4 #bfef4 ,arsenic4--,mostly seen under the form of white arsenic1 or fly-powder1 and yellow arsenic1 or king's yellow4--,symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it4 ,these vary very much1 according to the form and dose in which the poison has been taken4 ,there is faintness1 depression1 and sickness1 with an intense burning pain in the region of the stomach1 which gets worse and worse1 and is increased by pressure4 ,there is also vomiting of dark brown matter1 sometimes mixed with blood2 and mostly great thirst1 with a feeling of tightness round1 and of burning in1 the throat4 ,purging also takes place1 the matters brought away being mixed with blood4 ,the pulse is small and irregular1 and the skin sometimes cold and clammy1 and at others hot4 ,the breathing is painful4 ,convulsions and spasms often occur4--,treatment4 ,give a couple of teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water1 to bring on or assist vomiting1 and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for the purpose4 ,a solution1 half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil1 well mixed1 may be given1 as well as plenty of arrowroot1 gruel1 or linseed-tea4 ,simple milk is also useful4 ,a little castor-oil should be given1 to cleanse the intestines of all the poison1 and the after-symptoms treated on general principles4 #bfeg4 ,corrosive ,sublimate4--,mostly seen in the form of little heavy crystalline masses1 which melt in water1 and have a metallic taste4 ,it is sometimes seen in powder4 ,this is a most powerful poison4--,symptoms4 ,these mostly come on immediately after the poison has been taken4 ,there is a coppery taste experienced in the act of swallowing1 with a burning heat1 extending from the top of the throat down to the stomach2 and also a feeling of great tightness round the throat4 ,in a few minutes great pain is felt over the region of the stomach1 and frequent vomiting of long1 stringy white masses1 mixed with blood1 takes place4 ,there is also mostly great purging4 ,the countenance is generally pale and anxious2 the pulse always small and frequent2 the skin cold and clammy1 and the breathing difficult4 ,convulsions and insensibility often occur1 and are very bad symptoms indeed4 ,the inside of the mouth is more or less swollen4--,treatment4 ,mix the whites of a dozen eggs in two pints of cold water1 and give a glassful of the mixture every three or four minutes1 until the stomach can contain no more4 ,if vomiting does not now come on naturally1 and supposing the mouth is not very sore or much swollen1 an emetic draught1 ,no4 #a1 may be given1 and vomiting induced4 7,the ,no4 #a draught1 we remind our readers1 is thus made3--,twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water2 the draught to be repeated if vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour47 ,after the stomach has been well cleaned out1 milk1 flour-and-water1 linseed-tea1 or barley-water1 should be taken in large quantities4 ,if eggs cannot be obtained1 milk1 or flour-and-water1 should be given as a substitute for them at once4 ,when the depression of strength is very great indeed1 a little warm brandy-and-water must be given4 ,in the course of an hour or two the patient should take two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil1 and if inflammation comes on1 it is to be treated as directed in the article on acids and alkalis4 ,the diet should also be the same4 ,if the patient recovers1 great soreness of the gums is almost certain to take place4 ,the simplest1 and at the same time one of the best modes of treatment1 is to wash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-water4 #bfeh4 ,calomel4--,a heavy white powder1 without taste1 and insoluble in water4 ,it has been occasionally known to destroy life4--,symptoms4 ,much the same as in the case of corrosive sublimate4--,treatment4 ,the same as for corrosive sublimate4 ,if the gums are sore1 wash them1 as recommended in the case of corrosive sublimate1 with brandy-and-water three or four times a day1 and keep the patient on fluids1 such as arrowroot1 gruel1 broth1 or beef-tea1 according to the other symptoms4 ,eating hard substances would make the gums more sore and tender4 #bfei4 ,copper4--,the preparations of this metal which are most likely to be the ones producing poisonous symptoms1 are blue-stone and verdigris4 ,people are often taken ill after eating food that has been cooked in copper saucepans4 ,when anything has been cooked in one of these vessels1 it should never be allowed to cool in it4--,symptoms4 ,headache1 pain in the stomach1 and purging2 vomiting of green or blue matters1 convulsions1 and spasms4--,treatment4 ,give whites of eggs1 sugar-and-water1 castor-oil1 and drinks1 such as arrowroot and gruel4 #bffj4 ,emetic ,tartar4--,seen in the form of a white powder1 or crystals1 with a slightly metallic taste4 ,it has not often been known to destroy life4--,symptoms4 ,a strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing1 followed by a burning pain in the region of the stomach1 vomiting1 and great purging4 ,the pulse is small and rapid1 the skin cold and clammy1 the breathing difficult and painful1 and the limbs often much cramped4 ,there is also great prostration of strength4--,treatment4 ,promote the vomiting by giving plenty of warm water1 or warm arrowroot and water4 ,strong tea1 in large quantities1 should be drunk2 or1 if it can be obtained1 a decoction of oak bark4 ,the after-treatment is the same as that for acids and alkalis2 the principal object in all these cases being to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the poison by means of leeches1 warm poppy fomentations1 fever-mixtures1 and very low diet4 #bffa4 ,lead1 and its preparations1 ,sugar of ,lead1 ,goulard's ,extract1 ,white ,lead4--,lead is by no means an active poison1 although it is popularly considered to be so4 ,it mostly affects people by being taken into the system slowly1 as in the case of painters and glaziers4 ,a newly-painted house1 too1 often affects those living in it4--,symptoms produced when taken in a large dose4 ,there is at first a burning1 pricking sensation in the throat1 to which thirst1 giddiness1 and vomiting follow4 ,the belly is tight1 swollen1 and painful2 the pain being relieved by pressure4 ,the bowels are mostly bound4 ,there is great depression of strength1 and a cold skin4--,treatment4 ,give an emetic draught 7,no4 #a1 see above7 at once1 and shortly afterwards a solution of ,epsom salts in large quantities4 ,a little brandy-and-water must be taken if the depression of strength is very great indeed4 ,milk1 whites of eggs1 and arrowroot are also useful4 ,after two or three hours1 cleanse the stomach and intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil1 and treat the symptoms which follow according to the rules laid down in other parts of these articles4--,symptoms when it is taken into the body slowly4 ,headache1 pain about the navel1 loss of appetite and flesh1 offensive breath1 a blueness of the edges of the gums2 the belly is tight1 hard1 and knotty1 and the pulse slow and languid4 ,there is also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing4--,treatment4 ,give five grains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly1 in the form of a pill1 and half an ounce of ,epsom salts in two hours1 and repeat this treatment until the bowels are well opened4 ,put the patient into a warm bath1 and throw up a clyster of warmish water when he is in it4 ,fomentations of warm oil of turpentine1 if they can be obtained1 should be put over the whole of the belly4 ,the great object is to open the bowels as freely and as quickly as possible4 ,when this has been done1 a grain of pure opium may be given4 ,arrowroot or gruel should be taken in good large quantities4 ,the after-treatment must depend altogether upon the symptoms of each particular case4 #bffb4 ,opium1 and its preparations1 ,laudanum1 c4--,solid opium is mostly seen in the form of rich brown flattish cakes1 with little pieces of leaves sticking on them here and there1 and a bitter and slightly warm taste4 ,the most common form in which it is taken as a poison1 is that of laudanum4--,symptoms4 ,these consist at first in giddiness and stupor1 followed by insensibility1 the patient1 however1 being roused to consciousness by a great noise1 so as to be able to answer a question1 but becoming insensible again almost immediately4 ,the pulse is now quick and small1 the breathing hurried1 and the skin warm and covered with perspiration4 ,after a little time1 these symptoms change2 the person becomes perfectly insensible1 the breathing slow and snoring1 as in apoplexy1 the skin cold1 and the pulse slow and full4 ,the pupil of the eye is mostly smaller than natural4 ,on applying his nose to the patient's mouth1 a person may smell the poison very distinctly4--,treatment4 ,give an emetic draught 7,no4 #a1 see above7 directly1 with large quantities of warm mustard-and-water1 warm salt-and-water1 or simple warm water4 ,tickle the top of the throat with a feather1 or put two fingers down it to bring on vomiting1 which rarely takes place of itself4 ,dash cold water on the head1 chest1 and spine1 and flap these parts well with the ends of wet towels4 ,give strong coffee or tea4 ,walk the patient up and down in the open air for two or three hours2 the great thing being to keep him from sleeping4 ,electricity is of much service4 ,when the patient is recovering1 mustard poultices should be applied to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs4 ,the head should be kept cool and raised4 #bffc4 ,the following preparations1 which are constantly given to children by their nurses and mothers1 for the purpose of making them sleep1 often prove fatal3--,syrup of ,poppies1 and ,godfrey's ,cordial4 ,the author would most earnestly urge all people caring for their children's lives1 never to allow any of these preparations to be given1 unless ordered by a surgeon4 #bffd4 ,the treatment in the case of poisoning by ,henbane1 ,hemlock1 ,nightshade1 and ,foxglove1 is much the same as that for opium4 ,vomiting should be brought on in all of them4 #bffe4 ,poisonous ,food4--,it sometimes happens that things which are in daily use1 and mostly perfectly harmless1 give rise1 under certain unknown circumstances1 and in certain individuals1 to the symptoms of poisoning4 ,the most common articles of food of this description are ,mussels1 ,salmon1 and certain kinds of ,cheese and ,bacon4 ,the general symptoms are thirst1 weight about the stomach1 difficulty of breathing1 vomiting1 purging1 spasms1 prostration of strength1 and1 in the case of mussels more particularly1 an eruption on the body1 like that of nettle-rash4--,treatment4 ,empty the stomach well with ,no4 #a draught and warm water1 and give two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil immediately after4 ,let the patient take plenty of arrowroot1 gruel1 and the like drinks1 and if there is much depression of strength1 give a little warm brandy-and-water4 ,should symptoms of fever or inflammation follow1 they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kinds of poisoning4 #bfff4 ,mushrooms1 and similar kinds of vegetables1 often produce poisonous effects4 ,the symptoms are various1 sometimes giddiness and stupor1 and at others pain in and swelling of the belly1 with vomiting and purging1 being the leading ones4 ,when the symptoms come on quickly after taking the poison1 it is generally the head that is affected4--,the treatment consists in bringing on vomiting in the usual manner1 as quickly and as freely as possible4 ,the other symptoms are to be treated on general principles2 if they are those of depression1 by brandy-and-water or sal-volatile2 if those of inflammation1 by leeches1 fomentations1 fever-mixtures1 c4 c4 #bffg4 ,,for ,,cure ,,of ,,ringworm4--,take of subcarbonate of soda #a drachm1 which dissolve in #a_/b pint of vinegar4 ,wash the head every morning with soft soap1 and apply the lotion night and morning4 ,one teaspoonful of sulphur and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning4 ,the hair should be cut close1 and round the spot it should be shaved off1 and the part1 night and morning1 bathed with a lotion made by dissolving a drachm of white vitriol in #h oz4 of water4 ,a small piece of either of the two subjoined ointments rubbed into the part when the lotion has dried in4 ,no1 #a4--,take of citron ointment #a drachm2 sulphur and tar ointment1 of each #a_/b oz43 mix thoroughly1 and apply twice a day4 ,no4 #b4--,take of simple cerate #a oz42 creosote #a drachm2 calomel #cj grains3 mix and use in the same manner as the first4 ,concurrent with these external remedies1 the child should take an alterative powder every morning1 or1 if they act too much on the bowels1 only every second day4 ,the following will be found to answer all the intentions desired4 #bffh4 ,alterative ,powders for ,ringworm4--,take of ,sulphuret of antimony1 precipitated 4 #bd grains4 ,grey powder 4 4 4 4 4 #ab grains4 ,calomel 4 4 4 4 4 4 #f grains4 ,jalap powder 4 4 4 4 4 #cf grains4 ,mix carefully1 and divide into #ab powders for a child from #a to #b years old2 into #i powders for a child from #b to #d years2 and into #f powders for a child from #d to #f years4 ,where the patient is older1 the strength may be increased by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered1 or by giving one and a half or two powders for one dose4 ,the ointment is to be well washed off every morning with soap-and-water1 and the part bathed with the lotion before re-applying the ointment4 ,an imperative fact must be remembered by mother or nurse1--never to use the same comb employed for the child with ringworm1 for the healthy children1 or let the affected little one sleep with those free from the disease2 and1 for fear of any contact by hands or otherwise1 to keep the child's head enveloped in a nightcap1 till this eruption is completely cured4 #bffi4 ,,scratches4--,trifling as scratches often seem1 they ought never to be neglected1 but should be covered and protected1 and kept clean and dry until they have completely healed4 ,if there is the least appearance of inflammation1 no time should be lost in applying a large bread-and-water poultice1 or hot flannels repeatedly applied1 or even leeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other4 #bfgj4 ,,for ,,shortness ,,of ,,breath1 ,,or ,,difficult ,,breathing4--,vitriolated spirits of ether #a oz41 camphor #ab grains3 make a solution1 of which take a teaspoonful during the paroxysm4 ,this is found to afford instantaneous relief in difficulty of breathing1 depending on internal diseases and other causes1 where the patient1 from a very quick and laborious breathing1 is obliged to be in an erect posture4 #bfga4 ,,sprains4--,a sprain is a stretching of the leaders or ligaments of a part through some violence1 such as slipping1 falling on the hands1 pulling a limb1 c4 c4 ,the most common are those of the ankle and wrist4 ,these accidents are more serious than people generally suppose1 and often more difficult to cure than a broken log or arm4 ,the first thing to be done is to place the sprained part in the straight position1 and to raise it a little as well4 ,some recommend the application of cold lotions at first4 ,the editress1 however1 is quite convinced that warm applications are1 in most cases1 the best for for the first three or four days4 ,these fomentations are to be applied in the following manner3--,dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full of hot water or hot poppy fomentation1--six poppy heads boiled in one quart of water for about a quarter of an hour2 wring it almost dry1 and apply it1 as hot as the patient can bear1 right round the sprained part4 ,then place another piece of flannel1 quite dry1 over it1 in order that the steam and warmth may not escape4 ,this process should be repeated as often as the patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is getting cold--the oftener the better4 ,the bowels should be opened with a black draught1 and the patient kept on low diet4 ,if he has been a great drinker1 he may be allowed to take a little beer2 but it is better not to do so4 ,a little of the cream of tartar drink1 ordered in the case of burns1 may be taken occasionally if there is much thirst4 ,when the swelling and tenderness about the joint are very great1 from eight to twelve leeches may be applied4 ,when the knee is the joint affected1 the greatest pain is felt at the inside1 and therefore the greater quantity of the leeches should be applied to that part4 ,when the shoulder is sprained1 the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linen roller1 which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of the chest4 ,it should also be brought two or three times underneath the elbow1 in order to raise the shoulder4 ,this is the best treatment for these accidents during the first three or four days4 ,after that time1 supposing that no unfavourable symptoms have taken place1 a cold lotion1 composed of a tablespoonful of sal-ammoniac to a quart of water1 or vinegar-and-water1 should be constantly applied4 ,this lotion will strengthen the part1 and also help in taking away any thickening that may have formed about the joint4 ,in the course of two or three weeks1 according to circumstances1 the joint is to be rubbed twice a day with flannel dipped in opodeldoc1 a flannel bandage rolled tightly round the joint1 the pressure being greatest at the lowest part1 and the patient allowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick4 ,he should also occasionally1 when sitting or lying down1 quietly bend the joint backwards and forwards1 to cause its natural motion to return1 and to prevent stiffness from taking place4 ,when the swelling is very great immediately after the accident has occurred1 from the breaking of the blood-vessels1 it is best to apply cold applications at first4 ,if it can be procured1 oil-silk may be put over the warm-fomentation flannel1 instead of the dry piece of flannel4 ,old flannel is better than new4 #bfgb4 ,,cure ,,for ,,stammering4--,where there is no malformation of the organs of articulation1 stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with the teeth closed4 ,this should be practised for two hours a day1 for three or four months4 ,the advocate of this simple remedy says1 ,i can speak with certainty of its utility4 #bfgc4 ,,stammering4--,at a recent meeting of the ,boston ,society of ,natural ,history1 ,dr4 ,warren stated1 ,a simple1 easy1 and effectual cure of stammering4 ,it is1 simply1 at every syllable pronounced1 to tap at the same time with the finger2 by so doing1 the most inveterate stammerer will be surprised to find that he can pronounce quite fluently1 and1 by long and constant practice1 he will pronounce perfectly well4 #bfgd4 ,,suffocation1 ,,apparent4--,suffocation may arise from many different causes4 ,anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs will produce it4 ,we shall give the principal causes1 and the treatment to be followed in each case4 #bfge4 #a4 ,carbonic ,acid ,gas4 ,choke-,damp of ,mines4--,this poisonous gas is met with in rooms where charcoal is burnt1 and where there is not sufficient draught to allow it to escape2 in coalpits1 near limekilns1 in breweries1 and in rooms and houses where a great many people live huddled together in wretchedness and filth1 and where the air in consequence becomes poisoned4 ,this gas gives out no smell1 so that we cannot know of its presence4 ,a candle will not burn in a room which contains much of it4--,effects4 ,at first there is giddiness1 and a great wish to sleep2 after a little time1 or where there is much of it present1 a person feels great weight in the head1 and stupid2 gets by degrees quite unable to move1 and snores as if in a deep sleep4 ,the limbs may or may not be stiff4 ,the heat of the body remains much the same at first4--,treatment4 ,remove the person affected into the open air1 and1 even though it is cold weather1 take off his clothes4 ,then lay him on his back1 with his head slightly raised4 ,having done this1 dash vinegar-and-water over the whole of the body1 and rub it hard1 especially the face and chest1 with towels dipped in the same mixture4 ,the hands and feet also should be rubbed with a hard brush4 ,apply smelling-salts to the nose1 which may be tickled with a feather4 ,dashing cold water down the middle of the back is of great service4 ,if the person can swallow1 give him a little lemon-water1 or vinegar-and-water to drink4 ,the principal means1 however1 to be employed in this1 as1 in fact1 in most cases of apparent suffocation1 is what is called artificial breathing4 ,this operation should be performed by three persons1 and in the following manner3--,the first person should put the nozzle of a common pair of bellows into one of the patient's nostrils2 the second should push down1 and then thrust back1 that part of the throat called ,adam's apple2 and the third should first raise and then depress the chest1 one hand being placed over each side of the ribs4 ,these three actions should be performed in the following order3--,first of all1 the throat should be drawn down and thrust back2 then the chest should be raised1 and the bellows gently blown into the nostril4 ,directly this is done1 the chest should be depressed1 so as to imitate common breathing4 ,this process should be repeated about eighteen times a minute4 ,the mouth and the other nostril should be closed while the bellows are being blown4 ,persevere1 if necessary1 with this treatment for seven or eight hours--in fact1 till absolute signs of death are visible4 ,many lives are lost by giving it up too quickly4 ,when the patient becomes roused1 he is to be put into a warm bed1 and a little brandy-and-water1 or twenty drops of sal-volatile1 given cautiously now and then4 ,this treatment is to be adopted in all cases where people are affected from breathing bad air1 smells1 c4 c4 #bfgf4 #b4 ,drowning4--,this is one of the most frequent causes of death by suffocation4--,treatment4 ,many methods have been adopted1 and as some of them are not only useless1 but hurtful1 we will mention them here1 merely in order that they may be avoided4 ,in the first place1 then1 never hang a person up by his heels1 as it is an error to suppose that water gets into the lungs4 ,hanging a person up by his heels would be quite as bad as hanging him up by his neck4 ,it is also a mistake to suppose that rubbing the body with salt and water is of service4--,proper ,treatment4 ,directly a person has been taken out of the water1 he should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets2 but if these cannot be obtained1 the clothes of the bystanders must be used for the purpose4 ,his head being slightly raised1 and any water1 weeds1 or froth that may happen to be in his mouth1 having been removed1 he should be carried as quickly as possible to the nearest house4 ,he should now be put into a warm bath1 about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear1 and kept there for about ten minutes1 artificial breathing being had recourse to while he is in it4 ,having been taken out of the bath1 he should be placed flat on his back1 with his head slightly raised1 upon a warm bed in a warm room1 wiped perfectly dry1 and then rubbed constantly all over the body with warm flannels4 ,at the same time1 mustard poultices should be put to the soles of the feet1 the palms of the hands1 and the inner surface of the thighs and legs4 ,warm bricks1 or bottles filled with warm water1 should be placed under the armpits4 ,the nose should be tickled with a feather1 and smelling-salts applied to it4 ,this treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready1 as well as when the body has been taken out of it4 ,the bath is not absolutely necessary2 constantly rubbing the body with flannels in a warm room having been found sufficient for resuscitation4 ,sir ,b4 ,brodie says that warm air is quite as good as warm water4 ,when symptoms of returning consciousness begin to show themselves1 give a little wine1 brandy1 or twenty drops of sal-volatile and water4 ,in some cases it is necessary1 in about twelve or twenty-four hours after the patient has revived1 to bleed him1 for peculiar head-symptoms which now and then occur4 ,bleeding1 however1 even in the hands of professional men themselves1 should be very cautiously used--non-professional ones should never think of it4 ,the best thing to do in these cases is to keep the head well raised1 and cool with a lotion such as that recommended above for sprains2 to administer an aperient draught1 and to abstain from giving anything that stimulates1 such as wine1 brandy1 sal-volatile1 c4 c4 ,as a general rule1 a person dies in three minutes and a half after he has been under water4 ,it is difficult1 however1 to tell how long he has actually been under it1 although we may know well exactly how long he has been in it4 ,this being the case1 always persevere in your attempts at resuscitation until actual signs of death have shown themselves1 even for six1 eight1 or ten hours4 ,dr4 ,douglas1 of ,glasgow1 resuscitated a person who had been under water for fourteen minutes1 by simply rubbing the whole of his body with warm flannels1 in a warm room1 for eight hours and a half1 at the end of which time the person began to show the first symptoms of returning animation4 ,should the accident occur at a great distance from any house1 this treatment should be adopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of4 ,breathing through any tube1 such as a piece of card or paper rolled into the form of a pipe1 will do as a substitute for the bellows4 ,to recapitulate3 ,rub the body dry2 take matters out of mouth2 cover with blankets or clothes2 slightly raise the head1 and place the body in a warm bath1 or on a bed in a warm room2 apply smelling-salts to nose2 employ artificial breathing2 rub well with warm flannels2 put mustard poultices to feet1 hands1 and insides of thighs and legs1 with warm bricks or bottles to armpits4 ,don't bleed4 ,give wine1 brandy1 or sal-volatile when recovering1 and persevere till actual signs of death are seen4 #bfgg4 ,briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation1 let us treat of ,lightning4 ,when a person has been struck by lightning1 there is a general paleness of the whole body1 with the exception of the part struck1 which is often blackened1 or even scorched4--,treatment4 ,same as for drowning4 ,it is not1 however1 of much use2 for when death takes place at all1 it is generally instantaneous4 #bfgh4 ,,cure ,,for ,,the ,,toothache4--,take a piece of sheet zinc1 about the size of a sixpence1 and a piece of silver1 say a shilling2 place them together1 and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous to them2 in a few minutes the pain will be gone1 as if by magic4 ,the zinc and silver1 acting as a galvanic battery1 will produce on the nerves of the tooth sufficient electricity to establish a current1 and consequently to relieve the pain4 ,or smoke a pipe of tobacco and caraway-seeds4 ,again-- #bfgi4 ,a small piece of the pellitory root will1 by the flow of saliva it causes1 afford relief4 ,creosote1 or a few drops of tincture of myrrh1 or friar's balsam1 on cotton1 put on the tooth1 will often subdue the pain4 ,a small piece of camphor1 however1 retained in the mouth1 is the most reliable and likely means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreaded enemy4 #bfhj4 ,,warts4--,eisenberg says1 in his ,advice on the ,hand1 that the hydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts2 the process1 however1 is very slow1 and demands perseverance1 for1 if discontinued before the proper time1 no advantage is gained4 ,the following is a simple cure3--,on breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plant in two1 a drop of milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper part of the stem2 if this be allowed to drop on a wart1 so that it be well saturated with the juice1 in about three or four dressings the warts will die1 and may be taken off with the fingers4 ,they may be removed by the above means from the teats of cows1 where they are sometimes very troublesome1 and prevent them standing quiet to be milked4 ,the wart touched lightly every second day with lunar caustic1 or rubbed every night with blue-stone1 for a few weeks1 will destroy the largest wart1 wherever situated4 #bfha4 ,to ,,cure ,a ,,whitlow4--,as soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly1 a pretty large piece should be snipped out1 so that the watery matter may readily escape1 and continue to flow out as fast as produced4 ,a bread-and-water poultice should be put on for a few days1 when the wound should be bound up lightly with some mild ointment1 when a cure will be speedily completed4 ,constant poulticing both before and after the opening of the whitlow1 is the only practice needed2 but as the matter lies deep1 when it is necessary to open the abscess1 the incision must be made deep to reach the suppuration4 #bfhb4 ,,wounds4--,there are several kinds of wounds1 which are called by different names1 according to their appearance1 or the manner in which they are produced4 ,as1 however1 it would be useless1 and even hurtful1 to bother the reader's head with too many nice professional distinctions1 we shall content ourselves with dividing wounds into three classes4 #bfhc4 #a4 ,incised wounds or cuts--those produced by a knife1 or some sharp instrument4 #bfhd4 #b4 ,lacerated1 or torn wounds--those produced by the claws of an animal1 the bite of a dog1 running quickly against some projecting blunt object1 such as a nail1 c4 #bfhe4 #c4 ,punctured or penetrating wounds--those produced by anything running deeply into the flesh2 such as a sword1 a sharp nail1 a spike1 the point of a bayonet1 c4 #bfhf4 ,class #a4 ,incised wounds or cuts4--,the danger arising from these accidents is owing more to their position than to their extent4 ,thus1 a cut of half an inch long1 which goes through an artery1 is more serious than a cut of two inches long1 which is not near one4 ,again1 a small cut on the head is more often followed by dangerous symptoms than a much larger one on the legs4--,treatment4 ,if the cut is not a very large one1 and no artery or vein is wounded1 this is very simple4 ,if there are any foreign substances left in the wound1 they must be taken out1 and the bleeding must be quite stopped before the wound is strapped up4 ,if the bleeding is not very great1 it may easily be stopped by raising the cut part1 and applying rags dipped in cold water to it4 ,all clots of blood must be carefully removed2 for1 if they are left behind1 they prevent the wound from healing4 ,when the bleeding has been stopped1 and the wound perfectly cleaned1 its two edges are to be brought closely together by thin straps of common adhesive plaster1 which should remain on1 if there is not great pain or heat about the part1 for two or three days1 without being removed4 ,the cut part should be kept raised and cool4 ,when the strips of plaster are to be taken off1 they should first be well bathed with lukewarm water4 ,this will cause them to come away easily1 and without opening the lips of the wound2 which accident is very likely to take place1 if they are pulled off without having been first moistened with the warm water4 ,if the wound is not healed when the strips of plaster are taken off1 fresh ones must be applied4 ,great care is required in treating cuts of the head1 as they are often followed by erysipelas taking place round them4 ,they should be strapped with isinglass plaster1 which is much less irritating than the ordinary adhesive plaster4 ,only use as many strips as are actually requisite to keep the two edges of the wound together2 keep the patient quite quiet1 on low diet1 for a week or so1 according to his symptoms4 ,purge him well with the ,no4 #b pills 7five grains of blue pill mixed with the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth2 make into two pills1 the dose for an adult74 ,if the patient is feverish1 give him two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture three times a day4 7,the fever-mixture1 we remind our readers1 is thus made3 ,mix a drachm of powdered nitre1 #b drachms of carbonate of potash1 #b teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine1 and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water47 ,a person should be very careful of himself for a month or two after having had a bad cut on the head4 ,his bowels should be kept constantly open1 and all excitement and excess avoided4 ,when a vein or artery is wounded1 the danger is1 of course1 much greater4 ,those accidents1 therefore1 should always be attended to by a surgeon1 if he can possibly be procured4 ,before he arrives1 however1 or in case his assistance cannot be obtained at all1 the following treatment should be adopted3--,raise the cut part1 and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it4 ,this will often be sufficient to stop the bleeding1 if the divided artery or vein is not dangerous4 ,when an artery is divided1 the blood is of a bright red colour1 and comes away in jets4 ,in this case1 and supposing the leg or arm to be the cut part1 a handkerchief is to be tied tightly round the limb above the cut2 and1 if possible1 the two bleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece of silk4 ,if the bleeding is from a vein1 the blood is much darker1 and does not come away in jets4 ,in this case1 the handkerchief is to be tied below the cut1 and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided ends of the vein4 ,let every bad cut1 especially where there is much bleeding1 and even although it may to all appearance have been stopped1 be attended to by a surgeon1 if one can by any means be obtained4 #bfhg4 ,class #b4 ,lacerated or torn wounds4--,there is not so much bleeding in these cases as in clean cuts1 because the blood-vessels are torn across in a zigzag manner1 and not divided straight across4 ,in other respects1 however1 they are more serious than ordinary cuts1 being often followed by inflammation1 mortification1 fever1 and in some cases by locked-jaw4 ,foreign substances are also more likely to remain in them4--,treatment4 ,stop the bleeding1 if there is any1 in the manner directed for cuts2 remove all substances that may be in the wound2 keep the patient quite quiet1 and on low diet--gruel1 arrowroot1 and the like2 purge with the ,no4 #a pills and the ,no4 #a mixture4 7,the ,no4 #a pill3 ,mix #e grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder1 with a little bread-crumb1 and make into two pills1 which is the dose for an adult4 ,the ,no4 #a mixture3 ,dissolve an ounce of ,epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea4 ,a quarter of the mixture is a dose47 ,if there are feverish symptoms1 give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture 7see above7 every four hours4 ,if possible1 bring the two edges of the wound together1 but do not strain the parts to do this4 ,if they cannot be brought together1 on account of a piece of flesh being taken clean out1 or the raggedness of their edges1 put lint dipped in cold water over the wound1 and cover it with oiled silk4 ,it will then fill up from the bottom4 ,if the wound1 after being well washed1 should still contain any sand1 or grit of any kind1 or if it should get red and hot from inflammation1 a large warm bread poultice will be the best thing to apply until it becomes quite clean1 or the inflammation goes down4 ,when the wound is a very large one1 the application of warm poppy fomentations is better than that of the lint dipped in cold water4 ,if the redness and pain about the part1 and the general feverish symptoms1 are great1 from eight to twelve leeches are to be applied round the wound1 and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice applied after they drop off4 #bfhh4 ,class #c4 ,punctured or penetrating wounds4--,these1 for many reasons1 are the most serious of all kinds of wounds4--,treatment4 ,the same as that for lacerated wounds4 ,pus 7matter7 often forms at the bottom of these wounds1 which should1 therefore1 be kept open at the top1 by separating their edges every morning with a bodkin1 and applying a warm bread poultice immediately afterwards4 ,they will then1 in all probability1 heal up from the bottom1 and any matter which may form will find its own way out into the poultice4 ,sometimes1 however1 in spite of all precautions1 collections of matter 7abscesses7 will form at the bottom or sides of the wound4 ,those are to be opened with a lancet1 and the matter thus let out4 ,when matter is forming1 the patient has cold shiverings1 throbbing pain in the part1 and flushes on the face1 which come and go4 ,a swelling of the part is also often seen4 ,the matter in the abscesses may be felt to move backwards and forwards1 when pressure is made from one side of the swelling to the other with the first and second fingers 7the middle and that next the thumb7 of each hand4 ,,medical ,,memoranda4 #bfhi4 ,,advantages ,,of ,,cleanliness4--,health and strength cannot be long continued unless the skin--all the skin--is washed frequently with a sponge or other means4 ,every morning is best2 after which the skin should be rubbed very well with a rough cloth4 ,this is the most certain way of preventing cold1 and a little substitute for exercise1 as it brings blood to the surface1 and causes it to circulate well through the fine capillary vessels4 ,labour produces this circulation naturally4 ,the insensible perspiration cannot escape well if the skin is not clean1 as the pores get choked up4 ,it is said that in health about half the aliment we take passes out through the skin4 #bfij4 ,,the ,,tomato ,,medicinal4--,to many persons there is something unpleasant1 not to say offensive1 in the flavour of this excellent fruit4 ,it has1 however1 long been used for culinary purposes in various countries of ,europe4 ,dr4 ,bennett1 a professor of some celebrity1 considers it an invaluable article of diet1 and ascribes to it very important medicinal properties4 ,he declares3--#a4 ,that the tomato is one of the most powerful deobstruents of the materia medica2 and that1 in all those affections of the liver and other organs where calomel is indicated1 it is probably the most effective and least harmful remedial agent known in the profession4 #b4 ,that a chemical extract can be obtained from it1 which will altogether supersede the use of calomel in the cure of diseases4 #c4 ,that he has successfully treated diarrhoea with this article alone4 #d4 ,that when used as an article of diet1 it is almost a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion4 #bfia4 ,,warm ,,water4--,warm water is preferable to cold water1 as a drink1 to persons who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints1 and it may be taken more freely than cold water1 and consequently answers better as a diluent for carrying off bile1 and removing obstructions in the urinary secretion1 in cases of stone and gravel4 ,when water of a temperature equal to that of the human body is used for drink1 it proves considerably stimulant1 and is particularly suited to dyspeptic1 bilious1 gouty1 and chlorotic subjects4 #bfib4 ,,cautions ,,in ,,visiting ,,sick-,,rooms4--,never venture into a sick-room if you are in a violent perspiration 7if circumstances require your continuance there71 for the moment your body becomes cold1 it is in a state likely to absorb the infection1 and give you the disease4 ,nor visit a sick person 7especially if the complaint be of a contagious nature7 with an empty stomach2 as this disposes the system more readily to receive the contagion4 ,in attending a sick person1 place yourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed of the diseased1 not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in the room1 as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in that direction1 and you would run much danger from breathing it4 #bfic4 ,,necessity ,,of ,,good ,,ventilation ,,in ,,rooms ,,lighted ,,with ,,gas4--,in dwelling-houses lighted by gas1 the frequent renewal of the air is of great importance4 ,a single gas-burner will consume more oxygen1 and produce more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room1 than six or eight candles4 ,if1 therefore1 when several burners are used1 no provision is made for the escape of the corrupted air and for the introduction of pure air from without1 the health will necessarily suffer4 ,,legal ,,memoranda4 ,,chapter ,,xliv4 #bfid4 ,humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can be performed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of the law by which our rights are so carefully guarded2 and those learned in the law1 when they do give advice without the usual fee1 and in the confidence of friendship1 generally say1 ,pay1 pay anything rather than go to law2 while those having experience in the courts of ,themis have a wholesome dread of its pitfalls4 ,there are a few exceptions1 however1 to this fear of the law's uncertainties2 and we hear of those to whom a lawsuit is on agreeable relaxation1 a gentle excitement4 ,one of this class1 when remonstrated with1 retorted1 that while one friend kept dogs1 and another horses1 he1 as he had a right to do1 kept a lawyer2 and no one had a right to dispute his taste4 ,we cannot pretend1 in these few pages1 to lay down even the principles of law1 not to speak of its contrary exposition in different courts2 but there are a few acts of legal import which all men--and women too--must perform2 and to these acts we may be useful in giving a right direction4 ,there is a house to be leased or purchased1 servants to be engaged1 a will to be made1 or property settled1 in all families2 and much of the welfare of its members depends on these things being done in proper legal form4 #bfie4 ,,purchasing ,a ,,house4--,few men will venture to purchase a freehold1 or even a leasehold property1 by private contract1 without making themselves acquainted with the locality1 and employing a solicitor to examine the titles12 but many do walk into an auction-room1 and bid for a property upon the representations of the auctioneer4 ,the conditions1 whatever they are1 will bind him2 for by one of the legal fictions of which we have still so many1 the auctioneer1 who is in reality the agent for the vendor1 becomes also the agent for the buyer1 and by putting down the names of bidders and the biddings1 he binds him to whom the lot is knocked down to the sale and the conditions1--the falling of the auctioneer's hammer is the acceptance of the offer1 which completes the agreement to purchase4 ,in any such transaction you can only look at the written or printed particulars2 any verbal statement of the auctioneer1 made at the time of the sale1 cannot contradict them1 and they are implemented by the agreement1 which the auctioneer calls on the purchaser to sign after the sale4 ,you should sign no such contract without having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer1 and delivered to you4 ,it is1 perhaps1 unnecessary to add1 that no trustee or assignee can purchase property for himself included in the trust1 even at auction2 nor is it safe to pay the purchase money to an agent of the vendor1 unless he give a written authority to the agent to receive it1 besides handing over the requisite deeds and receipts4 #bfif4 ,the laws of purchase and sale of property are so complicated that ,lord ,st4 ,leonards devotes five chapters of his book on ,property ,law to the subject4 ,the only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase1 which has been reduced to a written contract1 is proof of fraudulent representation as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant1 or a defect in title2 but every circumstance which the purchaser might have learned by careful investigation1 the law presumes that he did know4 ,thus1 in buying a leasehold estate or house1 all the covenants of the original lease are presumed to be known4 ,it is not unusual1 says ,lord ,st4 ,leonards1 to stipulate1 in conditions of sale of leasehold property1 that the production of a receipt for the last year's rent shall be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants were performed up to that period4 ,never bid for one clogged with such a condition4 ,there are some acts against which no relief can be obtained2 for example1 the tenant's right to insure1 or his insuring in an office or in names not authorized in the lease4 ,and you should not rely upon the mere fact of the insurance being correct at the time of sale3 there may have been a prior breach of covenant1 and the landlord may not have waived his right of entry for the forfeiture4 ,and where any doubt of this kind exists1 the landlord should be appealed to4 #bfig4 ,interest on a purchase is due from the day fixed upon for completing3 where it cannot be completed1 the loss rests with the party with whom the delay rests2 but it appears1 when the delay rests with the seller1 and the money is lying idle1 notice of that is to be given to the seller to make him liable to the loss of interest4 ,in law1 the property belongs to the purchaser from the date of the contract2 he is entitled to any benefit1 and must bear any loss2 the seller may suffer the insurance to drop without giving notice2 and should a fire take place1 the loss falls on the buyer4 ,in agreeing to buy a house1 therefore1 provide at the same time for its insurance4 ,common fixtures pass with the house1 where nothing is said about them4 #bfih4 ,there are some well-recognized laws1 of what may be called good-neighbourhood1 which affect all properties4 ,if you purchase a field or house1 the seller retaining another field between yours and the highway1 he must of necessity grant you a right of way4 ,where the owner of more than one house sells one of them1 the purchaser is entitled to benefit by all drains leading from his house into other drains1 and will be subject to all necessary drains for the adjoining houses1 although there is no express reservation as to drains4 ,thus1 if his happens to be a leading drain1 other necessary drains may be opened into it4 ,in purchasing land for building on1 you should expressly reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer or watercourse on the vendor's land for drainage purposes4 #bfii4 ,,constructions4--,among the cautions which purchasers of houses1 land1 or leaseholds1 should keep in view1 is a not inconsiderable array of constructive notices1 which are equally binding with actual ones4 ,notice to your attorney or agent is notice to you2 and when the same attorney is employed by both parties1 and he is aware of an encumbrance of which you are ignorant1 you are bound by it2 even where the vendor is guilty of a fraud to which your agent is privy1 you are responsible1 and cannot be released from the consequences4 #bgjj4 ,,the ,,relations ,,of ,,landlord ,,and ,,tenant are most important to both parties1 and each should clearly understand his position4 ,the proprietor of a house1 or house and land1 agrees to let it either to a tenant-at-will1 a yearly tenancy1 or under lease4 ,a tenancy-at-will may be created by parol or by agreement2 and as the tenant may be turned out when his landlord pleases1 so he may leave when he himself thinks proper2 but this kind of tenancy is extremely inconvenient to both parties4 ,where an annual rent is attached to the tenancy1 in construction of law1 a lease or agreement without limitation to any certain period is a lease from year to year1 and both landlord and tenant are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined by the other4 ,this notice must be given at least six months before the expiration of the current year of the tenancy1 and it can only terminate at the end of any whole year from the time at which it began2 so that the tenant entering into possession at ,midsummer1 the notice must be given to or by him1 so as to terminate at the same term4 ,when once he is in possession1 he has a right to remain for a whole year2 and if no notice be given at the end of the first half-year of his tenancy1 he will have to remain two years1 and so on for any number of years4 #bgja4 ,,tenancy ,,by ,,sufferance4--,this is a tenancy1 not very uncommon1 arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiative in a more decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement4 ,the tenant remains in possession1 and continues to pay rent as before1 and becomes1 from sufferance1 a tenant from year to year1 which can only be terminated by one party or the other giving the necessary six months' notice to quit at the term corresponding with the commencement of the original tenancy4 ,this tenancy at sufferance applies also to an under-tenant1 who remains in possession and pays rent to the reversioner or head landlord4 ,a six months' notice will be insufficient for this tenancy4 ,a notice was given 7in ,right v4 ,darby1 ,i4,t4,r4 #aei7 to quit a house held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year1 on the #agth ,june1 #ahdj1 requiring him to quit the premises on the #aath ,october following1 or such other day as his said tenancy might expire4 ,the tenancy had commenced on the #aath ,october in a former year1 but it was held that this was not a good notice for the year ending ,october #aa1 #ahda4 ,a tenant from year to year gave his landlord notice to quit1 ending the tenancy at a time within the half-year2 the landlord acquiesced at first1 but afterwards refused to accept the notice4 ,the tenant quitted the premises2 the landlord entered1 and even made some repairs1 but it was afterwards held that the tenancy was not determined4 ,a notice to quit must be such as the tenant may safely act on at the time of receiving it2 therefore it can only be given by an agent properly authorized at the time1 and cannot be made good by the landlord adopting it afterwards4 ,an unqualified notice1 given at the proper time1 should conclude with ,on failure whereof1 ,i shall require you to pay me double the former rent for so long as you retain possession4 #bgjb4 ,,leases4--,a lease is an instrument in writing1 by which one person grants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for a term of years for a consideration1 the lessor granting the lease1 and the lessee accepting it with all its conditions4 ,a lessor may grant the lease for any term less than his own interest4 ,a tenant for life in an estate can only grant a lease for his own life4 ,a tenant for life1 having power to grant a lease1 should grant it only in the terms of the power1 otherwise the lease is void1 and his estate may be made to pay heavy penalties under the covenant1 usually the only one onerous on the lessor1 for quiet enjoyment4 ,the proprietor of a freehold--that is1 of the possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements--may grant a lease for #iii years1 for #ii years1 or for #c years4 ,in the latter case1 the lease may be either verbal or in writing1 no particular form and no stamps being necessary1 except the usual stamp on agreements2 so long as the intention of the parties is clearly expressed1 and the covenants definite1 and well understood by each party1 the agreement is complete1 and the law satisfied4 ,in the case of settled estates1 the court of ,chancery is empowered to authorize leases under the #ai #bj ,vict4 c4 #abj1 and #ba #bb ,vict4 c4 #gg1 as follows3-- #ba years for agriculture or occupation4 #dj years for water-power4 #ii years for building-leases4 #fj years for repairing-leases4 #bgjc4 ,a lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than his own3 to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment4 ,leases are frequently burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consent of the landlord3 this is a covenant sometimes very onerous1 and to be avoided1 where it is possible1 by a prudent lessee4 #bgjd4 ,a lease for any term beyond three years1 whether an actual lease or an agreement for one1 must be in the form of a deed2 that is1 it must be under seal2 and all assignments and surrenders of leases must be in the same form1 or they are void at law4 ,thus an agreement made by letter1 or by a memorandum of agreement1 which would be binding in most cases1 would be valueless when it was for a lease1 unless witnessed1 and given under hand and seal4 ,the last statute1 #h #i ,vict4 c4 #ajf1 under which these precautions became necessary1 has led to serious difficulties4 ,the judges1 says ,lord ,st4 ,leonards1 feel the difficulty of holding a lease in writing1 but not by deed1 to be altogether void1 and consequently decided1 that although such a lease is void under the statute1 yet it so far regulates the holding1 that it creates a tenancy from year to year1 terminable by half a year's notice2 and if the tenure endure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease1 the tenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice to quit4 ,an agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be a lease for a term of years1 and consequently void under the statute2 and yet1 says ,lord ,st4 ,leonards1 a court of equity has held that it may be specifically enforced as an agreement upon the terms stated4 ,the law on this point is one of glorious uncertainty2 in making any such agreement1 therefore1 we should be careful to express that it is an agreement1 and not a lease2 and that it is witnessed and under seal4 #bgje4 ,,agreements4--,it is usual1 where the lease is a repairing one1 to agree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according to specification4 ,this agreement should contain the names and designation of the parties1 a description of the property1 and the term of the intended lease1 and all the covenants which are to be inserted1 as no verbal agreement can be made to a written agreement4 ,it should also declare that the instrument is an agreement for a lease1 and not the lease itself4 ,the points to be settled in such an agreement are1 the rent1 term1 and especially covenants for insuring and rebuilding in the event of a fire2 and if it is intended that the lessor's consent is to be obtained before assigning or underleasing1 a covenant to that effect is required in the agreement4 ,in building-leases1 usually granted for #ii years1 the tenant is to insure the property2 and even where the agreement is silent on that point1 the law decides it so4 ,it is otherwise with ordinary tenements1 when the tenant pays a full1 or what the law terms rack-rent2 the landlord is then to insure1 unless it is otherwise arranged by the agreement4 #bgjf4 ,it is important for lessee1 and lessor1 also1 that the latter does not exceed his powers4 ,a lease granted by a tenant for life before he is properly in possession1 is void in law2 for1 although a court of equity1 according to ,lord ,st4 ,leonards1 will1 by force of its own jurisdiction1 support a bon fide lease1 granted under a power which is merely erroneous in form or ceremonies1 and the #ab #ac ,vict4 c4 #bf1 and #ac #ad ,vict4 c4 #ai1 compel a new lease to be granted with the necessary variations1 while the lessor has no power to compel him to accept such a lease1 except when the person in remainder is competent and willing to confirm the original lease without variations1 yet all these difficulties involve both delay1 costs1 and anxieties4 #bgjg4 ,in husbandry leases1 a covenant to cultivate the land in a husbandlike manner1 and according to the custom of the district1 is always implied2 but it is more usual to prescribe the course of tillage which is to be pursued4 ,in the case of houses for occupation1 the tenant would have to keep the house in a tenantable state of repair during the term1 and deliver it up in like condition4 ,this is not the case with the tenant at will1 or from year to year1 where the landlord has to keep the house in tenantable repair1 and the tenant is only liable for waste beyond reasonable wear and tear4 #bgjh4 ,,insurance4--,every lease1 or agreement for a lease1 should covenant not only who is to pay insurance1 but how the tenement is to be rebuilt in the event of a fire2 for if the house were burnt down1 and no provision made for insurance1 the tenant1 supposing there was the ordinary covenant to repair in the lease1 would not only have to rebuild1 but to pay rent while it was being rebuilt4 ,more than this1 supposing1 under the same lease1 the landlord had taken the precaution of insuring1 he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered in rebuilding the premises4 ,sir ,john ,leach lays it down1 that the tenant's situation could not be changed by a precaution1 on the part of the landlord1 with which he had nothing to do4 ,this decision ,lord ,campbell confirmed in a more recent case1 in which an action was brought against a lessee who was not bound to repair1 and neither he nor the landlord bound to insure2 admitting an equitable defence1 the court affirmed ,sir ,john ,leach's decision1 holding that the tenant was bound to pay the rent1 and could not require the landlord to lay out the insurance money in rebuilding4 ,this is opposed to the opinion of ,lord ,st4 ,leonards1 who admits1 however1 that the decision of the court must overrule his dictum4 ,such being the state of the law1 it is very important that insurance should be provided for1 and that the payment of rent should be made to depend upon rebuilding the house in the event of a fire4 ,care must be taken1 however1 that this is made a covenant of the lease1 as well as in the agreement1 otherwise the tenant must rebuild the house4 #bgji4 ,the law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages by tempest1 lightning1 or other natural casualty1 unless there is a special covenant to that effect in the lease2 but if there is a general covenant to repair1 the repair will fall upon the tenant4 ,lord ,kenyon lays it down1 in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood1 the tenant being under a general covenant to repair1 that1 where a party1 by his own contract1 creates a duty or charge upon himself1 he is bound to make it good1 because he might have guarded against it in the contract4 ,the same principle of law has been applied to a house destroyed by lightning4 ,it is1 therefore1 important to have this settled in the insurance clause4 #bgaj4 ,lord ,st4 ,leonards asserts that his policies against fire are not so framed as to render the company legally liable4 ,generally the property is inaccurately described with reference to the conditions under which you insure4 ,they are framed by companies who1 probably1 are not unwilling to have a legal defence against any claim1 as they intend to pay what they deem just claim without taking advantage of any technical objection1 and intending to make use of their defence only against what they believe to be a fraud1 although they may not be able to prove it4 ,but1 says his lordship1 do not rely upon the moral feelings of the directors4 ,ascertain that your house falls strictly within the conditions4 ,even having the surveyor of the company to look over your house before the insurance will not save you1 unless your policy is correct4 ,this is true2 but probably his lordship's legal jealousy overshoots the mark here4 ,assurance companies only require an honest statement of the facts1 and that no concealment is practised with their surveyor2 and the case of his own1 which he quotes1 in which a glass door led into a conservatory1 rendering it1 according to the view of the company1 hazardous1 and consequently voiding the policy1 when a fire did occur1 the company paid1 rather than try the question2 but even after the fire they demurred1 when called upon1 to make the description correct and indorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room opened through a glass door into conservatories4 ,one of two inferences is obvious here2 either his lordship has overcoloured the statement1 or the company could not be the respectable one represented4 ,the practice with all reputable offices is to survey the premises before insurance1 and to describe them as they appear2 but no concealment of stoves1 or other dangerous accessories or inflammable goods1 should be practised4 ,this certainly binds the office so long as no change takes place2 but the addition of any stove1 opening1 or door through a party wall1 the introduction of gunpowder1 saltpetre1 or other inflammable articles into the premises without notice1 very properly voids the policy4 ,the usual course is to give notice of all alterations1 and have them indorse on the policy1 as additions to the description of the property3 there is little fear1 where this is honestly done1 that any company would adopt the sharp practice hinted at in ,lord ,st4 ,leonards' excellent handy book4 #bgaa4 ,,breaks ,,in ,,the ,,lease4--,where a lease is for seven1 fourteen1 or twenty-one years1 the option to determine it at the end of the first term is in the tenant1 unless it is distinctly agreed that the option shall be mutual1 according to ,lord ,st4 ,leonards4 #bgab4 ,,noxious ,,trades4--,a clause is usually introduced prohibiting the carrying on of any trade in some houses1 and of noxious or particular trades in others4 ,this clause should be jealously inspected1 otherwise great annoyance may be produced4 ,it has been held that a general clause of this description prohibited a tenant from keeping a school1 for which he had taken it1 although a lunatic asylum and public-house have been found admissible2 the keeping an asylum not being deemed a trade1 which is defined as conducted by buying and selling4 ,it is better to have the trades1 or class of trades objected to1 defined in the lease4 #bgac4 ,,fixtures4--,in houses held under lease1 it has been the practice with landlords to lease the bare walls of the tenement only1 leaving the lessee to put in the stoves1 cupboards1 and such other conveniences as he requires1 at his own option4 ,those1 except under particular circumstances1 are the property of the lessee1 and may either be sold to an incoming tenant1 or removed at the end of his term4 ,the articles which may not be removed are subject to considerable doubt1 and are a fruitful source of dispute4 ,mr4 ,commissioner ,fonblanque has defined as tenants' property all goods and chattels2 #bndly1 all articles slightly connected one with another1 and with the freehold1 but capable of being separated without materially injuring the freehold2 #crdly1 articles fixed to the freehold by nails and screws1 bolts or pegs1 are also tenants' goods and chattels2 but when sunk in the soil1 or built on it1 they are integral parts of the freehold1 and cannot be removed4 ,thus1 a greenhouse or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is not removable2 but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated1 may be removed or sold to the in-coming tenant4 ,a brick flue does not come under the same category1 but remains4 ,window-blinds1 grates1 stoves1 coffee-mills1 and1 in a general sense1 everything he has placed which can be removed without injury to the freehold1 he may remove1 if they are separated from the tenement during his term1 and the place made good4 ,it is not unusual to leave the fixtures in their place1 with an undertaking from the landlord that1 when again let1 the in-coming tenant shall pay for them1 or permit their removal4 ,in a recent case1 however1 a tenant having held over beyond his term and not removed his fixtures1 the landlord let the premises to a new tenant1 who entered into possession1 and would not allow the fixtures to be removed--it was held by the courts1 on trial1 that he was justified4 ,a similar case occurred to the writer3 he left his fixtures in the house1 taking a letter from the landlord1 undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay for them by valuation1 or permit their removal4 ,the house was let2 the landlord died4 ,his executors1 on being applied to1 pleaded ignorance1 as did the tenant1 and on being furnished with a copy of the letter1 the executors told applicant that if he was aggrieved1 he knew his remedy2 namely1 an action at law4 ,he thought the first loss the least1 and has not altered his opinion4 #bgad4 ,,taxes4--,land-tax1 sewers-rate1 and property-tax1 are landlord's taxes2 but by #cj ,geo4 ,,ii4 c4 #b1 the occupier is required to pay all rates levied1 and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to the landlord4 ,many landlords now insert a covenant1 stipulating that land-tax and sewers-rate are to be paid by the tenants1 and not deducted3 this does not apply to the property-tax4 ,all other taxes and rates are payable by the occupier4 #bgae4 ,,water-,,rate1 of course1 is paid by the tenant4 ,the water-companies1 as well as gas-companies1 have the power of cutting off the supply2 and most of them have also the right of distraining1 in the same manner as landlords have for rent4 #bgaf4 ,,notice ,,to ,,quit4--,in the case of leasing for a term1 no notice is necessary2 the tenant quits1 as a matter of course1 at its termination2 or if1 by tacit consent1 he remains paying rent as heretofore1 he becomes a tenant at sufferance1 or from year to year4 ,half a year's notice now becomes necessary1 as we have already seen1 to terminate the tenancy2 except in ,london1 and the rent is under forty shillings1 when a quarter's notice is sufficient4 ,either of these notices may be given verbally1 if it can be proved that the notice was definite1 and given at the right time4 ,form of notice is quite immaterial1 provided it is definite and clear in its purport4 #bgag4 ,tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to the taking4 ,thus1 when taken for three months1 a three months' notice is required2 when monthly1 a month's notice2 and when weekly1 a week's notice2 but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rent is allowed to stand over for three months4 ,when taken for a definite time1 as a month1 a week1 or a quarter1 no notice is necessary on either side4 #bgah4 ,,dilapidations4--,at the termination of a lease1 supposing he has not done so before1 a landlord can1 and usually does1 send a surveyor to report upon the condition of the tenement1 and it becomes his duty to ferret out every defect4 ,a litigious landlord may drag the outgoing tenant into an expensive lawsuit1 which he has no power to prevent4 ,he may even compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he has effected in the tenement itself1 if dilapidations exist4 ,when the lessor covenants to do all repairs1 and fails to do so1 the lessee may repair1 and deduct the cost from the rent4 #bgai4 ,,recovery ,,of ,,rent4--,the remedies placed in the hands of landlords are very stringent4 ,the day after rent falls due1 he may proceed to recover it1 by action at law1 by distress on the premises1 or by action of ejectment1 if the rent is half a year in arrear4 ,distress is the remedy usually applied1 the landlord being authorized to enter the premises1 seize the goods and chattels of his tenant1 and sell them1 on the fifth day1 to reimburse himself for all arrears of rent and the charges of the distress4 ,there are a few exceptions2 but1 generally1 all goods found on the premises may be seized4 ,the exceptions are--dogs1 rabbits1 poultry1 fish1 tools and implements of a man's trade actually in use1 the books of a scholar1 the axe of a carpenter1 wearing apparel on the person1 a horse at the plough1 or a horse he may be riding1 a watch in the pocket1 loose money1 deeds1 writings1 the cattle at a smithy forge1 corn sent to a mill for grinding1 cattle and goods of a guest at an inn2 but1 curiously enough1 carriages and horses standing at livery at the same inn may be taken4 ,distress can only be levied in the daytime1 and if made after the tender of arrears1 it is illegal4 ,if tender is made after the distress1 but before it is impounded1 the landlord must abandon the distress and bear the cost himself4 ,nothing of a perishable nature1 which cannot be restored in the same condition--as milk1 fruit1 and the like1 must be taken4 #bgbj4 ,the law does not regard a day as consisting of portions4 ,the popular notion that a notice to quit should be served before noon is an error4 ,although distraint is one of the remedies1 it is seldom advisable in a landlord to resort to distraining for the recovery of rent4 ,if a tenant cannot pay his rent1 the sooner he leaves the premises the better4 ,if he be a rogue and won't pay1 he will probably know that nine out of ten distresses are illegal1 through the carelessness1 ignorance1 or extortion of the brokers who execute them4 ,many1 if not most1 of the respectable brokers will not execute distresses1 and the business falls into the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ4 #bgba4 ,powers to relieve landlords of premises1 by giving them legal possession1 are given by #ai #bj ,vict41 cap4 #ajh1 to the county courts1 in cases where the rent does not exceed #ej per annum1 and under the circumstances hereinafter mentioned2 i4e43-- #a4 ,where the term has expired1 or been determined by notice to quit4 #b4 ,where there is one half-year's rent in arrear1 and the landlord shall have right by law to enter for the nonpayment thereof4 ,as proof of this power is required1 the importance of including such a power in the agreement for tenancy will be obvious4 ,in the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed1 as well as the possession of the premises1 in one summons4 #bgbb4 ,when a tenant deserts premises1 leaving one half-year's rent in arrear1 possession may be recovered by means of the police-court4 ,the rent must not exceed #bj per annum1 and must be at least three-fourths of the value of the premises4 ,in cases in which the tenant has not deserted the premises1 and where notice to quit has been given and has expired1 the landlord must give notice to the tenant of his intended application4 ,the annual rent in this case1 also1 must not exceed #bj4 #bgbc4 ,,the ,i4 ,o4 ,u4--,the law is not particular as to orthography2 in fact1 it distinctly refuses to recognize the existence of that delightful science4 ,you may bring your action against ,mr4 ,jacob ,phillips1 under the fanciful denomination of ,jaycobb ,fillipse1 if you like1 and the law won't care1 because the law goes by ear2 and1 although it insists upon having everything written1 things written are only supposed in law to have any meaning when read1 which is1 after all1 a common-sense rule enough4 ,so1 instead of ,i owe you1 persons of a cheerful disposition1 so frequently found connected with debt1 used to write facetiously ,i4 ,o4 ,u41 and the law approved of their so doing4 ,an ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 is nothing more than a written admission of a debt1 and may run thus3-- #aeth ,october1 #ahfj4 ,to ,mr4 ,w4 ,,brown4 ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 ten pounds for coals4 #aj4 ,,john ,,jones4 ,if to this you add the time of payment1 as payable in one month from this date1 your ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 is worthless and illegal2 for it thus ceases to be a mere acknowledgment1 and becomes a promissory note4 ,now a promissory note requires a stamp1 which an ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 does not4 ,many persons1 nevertheless1 stick penny stamps upon them1 probably for ornamental effect1 or to make them look serious and authoritative4 ,if for the former purpose1 the postage-stamp looks better than the receipt stamp upon blue paper4 ,if you are ,w4 ,brown1 and you didn't see the ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 signed1 and can't find anybody who knows ,jones's autograph1 and ,jones won't pay1 the ,i4 ,o4 ,u4 will be of no use to you in the county court1 except to make the judge laugh4 ,he will1 however1 allow you to prove the consideration1 and as1 of course1 you won't be prepared to do anything of the sort1 he will1 if you ask him politely1 adjourn the hearing for a week1 when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered the article1 and thus gain a glorious victory4 #bgbd4 ,,apprentices4--,by the statute #e ,eliz4 cap4 #d1 it is enacted that1 in cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices1 or of neglect of duty by apprentices1 the complaining party may apply to a justice of the peace1 who may make such order as equity may require4 ,if1 for want of conformity on the part of the master1 this cannot be done1 then the master may be bound to appear at the next sessions4 ,authority is given by the act to the justices in sessions to discharge the apprentice from his indentures4 ,they are also empowered1 on proof of misbehaviour of the apprentice1 to order him to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labour4 #bgbe4 ,,husband ,,and ,,wife4--,contrary to the vulgar opinion1 second cousins1 as well as first1 may legally marry4 ,when married1 a husband is liable for his wife's debts contracted before marriage4 ,a creditor desirous of suing for such a claim should proceed against both4 ,it will1 however1 be sufficient if the husband be served with process1 the names of both appearing therein1 thus3--,john ,jones and ,ann his wife4 ,a married woman1 if sued alone1 may plead her marriage1 or1 as it is called in law1 coverture4 ,the husband is liable for debts of his wife contracted for necessaries while living with him4 ,if she voluntarily leaves his protection1 this liability ceases4 ,he is also liable for any debts contracted by her with his authority4 ,if the husband have abjured the realm1 or been transported by a sentence of law1 the wife is liable during his absence1 as if she were a single woman1 for debts contracted by her4 #bgbf4 ,in civil cases1 a wife may now give evidence on behalf of her husband in criminal cases she can neither be a witness for or against her husband4 ,the case of assault by him upon her forms an exception to this rule4 #bgbg4 ,the law does not at this day admit the ancient principle of allowing moderate correction by a husband upon the person of his wife4 ,although this is said to have been anciently limited to the use of a stick not bigger than the thumb1 this barbarity is now altogether exploded4 ,he may1 notwithstanding1 as has been recently shown in the famous ,agapemone case1 keep her under restraint1 to prevent her leaving him1 provided this be effected without cruelty4 #bgbh4 ,by the ,divorce and ,matrimonial ,causes ,act1 #aheg1 a wife deserted by her husband may apply to a magistrate1 or to the petty sessions1 for an order to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by her after such desertion1 from her husband and his creditors4 ,in this case it is indispensable that such order shall1 within ten days1 be entered at the county court of the district within which she resides4 ,it will be seen that the basis of an application for such an order is desertion4 ,consequently1 where the parties have separated by common consent1 such an order cannot be obtained1 any previous cruelty or misconduct on the husband's part notwithstanding4 #bgbi4 ,when a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name in a savings-bank1 and he survives her1 it is sometimes the rule of such establishments to compel him to take out administration in order to receive such money1 although it is questionable whether such rule is legally justifiable4 ,widows and widowers pay no legacy-duty for property coming to them through their deceased partners4 #bgcj4 ,,receipts for sums above #b should now be given upon penny stamps4 ,a bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsement stating that it has been paid1 and this will not be liable to the stamp4 ,a receipt is not1 as commonly supposed1 conclusive evidence as to a payment4 ,it is only what the law terms prim facie evidence2 that is1 good until contradicted or explained4 ,thus1 if ,a sends wares or merchandise to ,b1 with a receipt1 as a hint that the transaction is intended to be for ready money1 and ,b detain the receipt without paying the cash1 ,a will be at liberty to prove the circumstances and to recover his claim4 ,the evidence to rebut the receipt must1 however1 be clear and indubitable1 as1 after all1 written evidence is of a stronger nature than oral testimony4 #bgca4 ,,books ,,of ,,account4--,a tradesman's books of account cannot be received as evidence in his own behalf1 unless the entries therein be proved to have been brought under the notice of1 and admitted to be correct by the other party1 as is commonly the case with the pass-books employed backwards and forwards between bakers1 butchers1 and the like domestic traders1 and their customers4 ,the defendant may1 however1 compel the tradesman to produce his books to show entries adverse to his own claim4 #bgcb4 ,,wills4--,the last proof of affection which we can give to those left behind1 is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to excite neither jealousy1 nor anger1 nor heartrendings of any kind1 at least for the immediate future4 ,this can only be done by a just1 clear1 and intelligible disposal of whatever there is to leave4 ,without being advocates for every man being his own lawyer1 it is not to be denied that the most elaborately prepared wills have been the most fruitful sources of litigation1 and it has even happened that learned judges left wills behind them which could not be carried out4 ,except in cases where the property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure1 very elaborate details are unnecessary2 and we counsel no man to use words in making his will of which he does not perfectly understand the meaning and import4 #bgcc4 ,all men over twenty-one years of age1 and of sound mind1 and all unmarried women of like age and sanity1 may by will bequeath their property to whom they please4 ,infants1 that is1 all persons under twenty-one years of age1 and married women1 except where they have an estate to their own separate use1 are incapacitated1 without the concurrence of the husband2 the law taking the disposal of any property they die possessed of4 ,a person born deaf and dumb cannot make a will1 unless there is evidence that he could read and comprehend its contents4 ,a person convicted of felony cannot make a will1 unless subsequently pardoned2 neither can persons outlawed2 but the wife of a felon transported for life may make a will1 and act in all respects as if she were unmarried4 ,a suicide may bequeath real estate1 but personal property is forfeited to the crown4 #bgcd4 ,except in the case of soldiers on actual service1 and sailors at sea1 every will must be made in writing4 ,it must be signed by the testator1 or by some other person in his presence1 and at his request1 and the signature must be made or acknowledged in the presence of two or more witnesses1 who are required to be present at the same time1 who declare by signing that the will was signed by the testator1 or acknowledged in their presence1 and that they signed as witnesses in testator's presence4 #bgce4 ,by the act of #aheb it was enacted that no will shall be valid unless signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator1 or by some person in his presence1 and by his direction2 but a subsequent act proceeds to say that every will shall1 as far only as regards the position of the signature of the testator1 or of the person signing for him1 be deemed valid if the signature shall be so placed at1 or after1 or following1 or under1 or beside1 or opposite to the end of the will1 that it shall be apparent on the face of it that the testator intended to give it effect by such signature4 ,under this clause1 a will of several sheets1 all of which were duly signed1 except the last one1 has been refused probate2 while1 on the other hand1 a similar document has been admitted to probate where the last sheet only1 and none of the other sheets1 was signed4 ,in order to be perfectly formal1 however1 each separate sheet should be numbered1 signed1 and witnessed1 and attested on the last sheet4 ,this witnessing is an important act3 the witnesses must subscribe it in the presence of the testator and of each other2 and by their signature they testify to having witnessed the signature of the testator1 he being in sound mind at the time4 ,wills made under any kind of coercion1 or even importunity may become void1 being contrary to the wishes of the testator4 ,fraud or imposition also renders a will void1 and where two wills made by the same person happen to exist1 neither of them dated1 the maker of the wills is declared to have died intestate4 #bgcf4 ,a will may always be revoked and annulled1 but only by burning or entirely destroying the writing1 or by adding a codicil1 or making a subsequent will duly attested2 but as the alteration of a will is only a revocation to the extent of the alteration1 if it is intended to revoke the original will entirely1 such intention should be declared1--no merely verbal directions can revoke a written will2 and the act of running the pen through the signatures1 or down the page1 is not sufficient to cancel it1 without a written declaration to that effect signed and witnessed4 #bgcg4 ,a will made before marriage is revoked thereby4 #bgch4 ,a codicil is a supplement or addition to a will1 either explaining or altering former dispositions2 it may be written on the same or separate paper1 and is to be witnessed and attested in the same manner as the original document4 #bgci4 ,,witnesses4--,any persons are qualified to witness a will who can write their names2 but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will4 ,if a legacy is granted to the persons witnessing1 it is void4 ,the same rule applies to the husband or wife of a witness2 a bequest made to either of these is void4 #bgdj4 ,,form ,,of ,,wills4--,form is unimportant1 provided the testator's intention is clear4 ,it should commence with his designation2 that is1 his name and surname1 place of abode1 profession1 or occupation4 ,the legatees should also be clearly described4 ,in leaving a legacy to a married woman1 if no trustees are appointed over it1 and no specific directions given1 that it is for her sole and separate use1 free from the control1 debts1 and incumbrances of her husband1 the husband will be entitled to the legacy4 ,in the same manner a legacy to an unmarried woman will vest in her husband after marriage1 unless a settlement of it is made on her before marriage4 #bgda4 ,in sudden emergencies a form may be useful1 and the following has been considered a good one for a death-bed will1 where the assistance of a solicitor could not be obtained2 indeed1 few solicitors can prepare a will on the spur of the moment3 they require time and legal forms1 which are by no means necessary1 before they can act4 ,i1 ,a4,b41 of ,no4 #aj1 ----1 ,street1 in the city of ---- gentleman1 builder1 or grocer1 as the case may be1 being of sound mind1 thus publish and declare my last will and testament4 ,revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property1 ,i give and bequeath as follows3--to my son ,j4,b41 of ----1 ,i give and bequeath the sum of ---2 to my daughter ,m41 the wife of ,j41 of ----1 ,i give and bequeath the sum of ---- if intended for her own use1 add to her sole and separate use1 free from the control1 debts1 and incumbrances of her husband1 both in addition to any sum or sums of money or other property they have before had from me4 ,all the remaining property ,i die possessed of ,i leave to my dear wife ,m4 ,b41 for her sole and separate use during her natural life1 together with my house and furniture1 situate at ,no4 #aj1 ---- ,street1 aforesaid4 ,at her death1 ,i desire that the said house shall be sold1 with all the goods and chattels therein or1 ,i give and bequeath the said house1 with all the goods and chattels therein1 to ----1 and the money realized from the sale1 together with that in which my said wife had a life-interest1 ,i give and bequeath in equal moieties to my son and daughter before named4 ,i appoint my dear friend ,t4,s41 of ----1 and ,t4,b41 of ----1 together with my wife ,m4,b41 as executors to this my last will and testament4 ,signed by ,a4,b41 this #ajth day of ,october1 #ahfa1 in our presence1 both being present together1 and both having signed as witnesses1 in the presence of the testator3--,a4,b4 ,t4,s41 ,witness4 ,f4,m41 ,witness4 ,it is to be observed that the signature of the testator after this attestation has been signed by the witnesses1 is not a compliance with the act2 he must sign first4 #bgdb4 ,,stamp-,,duties4--,in the case of persons dying intestate1 when their effects are administered to by their family1 the stamp-duty is half as much more as it would have been under a will4 ,freehold and copyhold estates are now subject to a special impost on passing1 by the ,stamp ,act of #aheg4 #bgdc4 ,the legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to #bj and upwards2 and where it is not directed otherwise1 the duty is deducted from the legacy4 #bgdd4 ,you cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathing land or tenements1 or money to purchase such1 to any charitable use1 by your last will and testament2 but you may devise them to the ,british ,museum1 to either of the two universities of ,oxford and ,cambridge1 to ,eton1 ,winchester1 and ,westminster2 and you may1 if so inclined1 leave it for the augmentation of ,queen ,anne's bounty4 ,you may1 however1 order your executors to sell land and hand over the money received to any charitable institution4 #bgde4 ,in making provision for a wife1 state whether it is in lieu of1 or in addition to1 dower4 #bgdf4 ,if you have advanced money to any child1 and taken an acknowledgment for it1 or entered it in any book of account1 you should declare whether any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance1 or whether it is to be deducted from the legacy4 #bgdg4 ,a legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by your leaving another legacy by a codicil to the same person1 unless it is stated to be in addition to the former bequest4 #bgdh4 ,your entire estate is chargeable with your debts1 except where the real estate is settled4 ,let it be distinctly stated out of which property1 the real or personal1 they are paid1 where it consists of both4 #bgdi4 ,whatever is devised1 let the intention be clearly expressed1 and without any condition1 if you intend it to take effect4 #bgej4 ,attestation is not necessary to a will1 as the act of witnessing is all the law requires1 and the will itself declares the testator to be of sound mind in his own estimation2 but1 wherever there are erasures or interlineations1 one becomes necessary4 ,no particular form is prescribed2 but it should state that the testator either signed it himself1 or that another signed it by his request1 or that he acknowledged the signature to be his in their presence1 both being present together1 and signed as witnesses in his presence4 ,when there are erasures1 the attestation must declare that--,the words interlined in the third line of page #d1 and the erasure in the fifth line of page #f1 having been first made4 ,these are the acts necessary to make a properly executed will2 and1 being simple in themselves and easily performed1 they should be strictly complied with1 and always attested4 #bgea4 ,a witness may1 on being requested1 sign for testator2 and he may also sign for his fellow-witness1 supposing he can only make his mark1 declaring that he does so2 but a husband cannot sign for his wife1 either as testator or witness1 nor can a wife for her husband4